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32X

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" ^^"^mM -

■^•s-

'■■>S

THE

VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

THE SHIP AND ICE JOURNALS

GEORGE W. De LONG,

LIEUTENANT-COMMANDER U. S. N., AND COMMANDER
OF THE POLAR EXPEDITION OF 1879-1881.

EDITKD HY HIS WIFK,

EMMA DeLONG,

WITH A STEEL PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND MANY
ILLUSTRATIONS ON WOOD AND STONE.

m TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. L

LONDON

KEGAN PAUL, TRENC^H AND COMPANY

I Paternoster SguARE

1883

All rifjhla nsen-cd.

OUiv

)■ \

PREFACE.

n,
■0

In the preparation of this vohime the editor has
availed herself first, of the private papers of Captain
De Lonjr, and her own recollection and notes ; and
secondly, of the testimony given in public and private
by the survivors of the Jeannette. It seemed right, in
a work which is essentially a tribute to human worth,
to introduce the narrative with a brief l)iograpiiical
sketch of the commander of the expedition up to the
inception of the undertaking, with special reference to
the qualities of character and education of circum-
stances which led directly to his proposal of an Arctic
expedition. The preparations for the voyage continue
this personal sketch, as well as put the reader in posses-
sion of all necesisary facts relating to the plans of the
projectors and the measures taken to ensure success.

So much was requisite as an introduction to the nar-
rative itself. For that recourse was had to the letters
written by Captain De Long after leaving San Fran-
cisco, and before dismissing the consort which accom-
panied the Jeannette to St. Lawrence Bay ; to the
private journal which he kept from the beginning of
the voyage to the sinking of the ship, and to the two
small •jovn-nals in which he recorded the fortunes of the
expedition after the ship was abandoned.

28118

PREFACE.

In prepnrint? the closing chapters of the work, tlio
testhnonies given by the survivors have been carefully
compared and made the basis for a consecutive narra-
tive which should complete the history of the expe-
dition.

The illustrations have been studied with great care.
The smaller ones in the text have been reproduced
from diagrams and sketches made in the joui-nals, by
Mr. Newcorab, the naturalist of the party, and by Cap-
tain Gronbeck of the Lena ; the larger ones have been
from the hand of Mr. M. J. Burns, whose experience
in the Arctic had given him special facility for making
truthful renderings^ and his work has been carefully
examined and approved by ofhcers of the expedition.
The portraits have been taken from the best sources.
That of Captain De Long is from a painting by Mr. JC.
W. Perry ; that of Mr. Bennett was engraved for this
work ; and those of the officers and other ntembers of
the expedition are from the best photographs obtain-
able. The frontispiece of the second volume is from
a drawing made on the spot by Mr. A. Larsen. The
maps were drawn for the work. Avith the exception
of that descriptive of the route of the Little Juniata,
which is a reduction of the government map in the
" Voyage of the Polaris."

The scientific results of the expedition are only par-
tially recorded in the text of the work and in papers
included in the Appendix. The government will
hereafter issue the notes of the naturalist, the meteoro-
logical observations, and the electrical and auroral

PREFACE. V

c.bsorvntJons of Lieutenant Cliipp, nnri U I,.,s been
tlu).i-ht advisable, tlierefore. to omit them IVoni this
work.

Tiie thanks of the editor are due to Mr. James Go,.,
don Bennett for his constant sympathy, interest, and
m.l ; to Ciiief-Engineer Melville for his frequent assist-
ance and special contributions ; to the other survivors
of the Jeannette for their cheerful and rea.lv response
to all requests for information; to Colon'el W. B
Remey, Judoe Advocate General U. S. N., and Lieu-
tenant W. H. Jaques. U. S. N. Finally, the editor de-
.sn-es to acknowled.ire u-ratefully the consideration an.l
knidne.s.s Avhich her work has met with from the Secre-
tory of the Navy and other members of the Depart-
ment at Washington.

Ml,.

CONTExXTS.

CHAPTER I.

THE COMMANDKIl t)K TIIK EXPEDITfOV.

Parontago and Rirtli. — Early IndiK'nci-s :iiiil SiiiiomiiliM!.'s School

Lilt!. — Tlu! (.'liciicc of ii Pioffssior In the Law Olliee of Hon.
John Oakey. — Forcns liis Way into tlic .Vaval Academy, r— A Mid-
Bldpman who dispunsus witli lied Tap.'. —Death of his I'arcnts. —
Marriajfe under nifficulties. — Promotion. — On tht! Juniata. —
Commanding the Little Juniat," A Periious B^ it Journey. — His
Recollection of his FJxjierience. — The Vrc'io Fever. — Powers of
Endurance. — Tciuiieranuiit. — Trolit s. - His Dcajiniis with Men.
— TcBtimouy of an Associate j

CHAPTER H.

PKEPARATIONS FOR TIIK KXI'KDITION.

Conversation with .Mr. (iriiiiiell. — Proposal to Mr. Hennett. — Mr.
Bennett's Respon.se. — Delay in Plans. — Search for a Suitaltle
Vessel. — Purchase of the Pandora. — Sketch of Oiicrations. —
Dr. Petermann's Vicw.s. —Lieutenant Dc Lou..' repairs to Enuland.

— Halloon Ascensions. —The i'andoni renamed The Jeannettc.

— Lieutenant Danenhower joins the Ship. —The Voyajre to San
Francisco. — Action of Conjiress. — S.irvey of the siiip. — Inter-
view with Secretary of the Navy. — Alterations of the Jeannettc.

— Considerations of Economy. — Captain De Lon<x"s Lai)ors. —
The OiKcers of the Party. — The Crew.— Advice frcni Oiifsi.lcrs.

— Orders for the Expedition. — Mr. Bennett's Farewell. — Outlook.

CHAPTER HL

FROM SAN FRANCI.SCO TO iST. LAWRENCE BAY.

8 J III 11 — 27 August, IS 71).

The Start. — The Escort, — The Company. — O.inalaska Islan.l.—
The Alaska Compa- v. — Letter to .Secretary of the Navy. — Gen-

fONTENrS.

iTosity of the Company and its A<;int. — St. Michael's. — No
'I'idin^s of Nordt-nskjolil. — The Oflii-crs of the Jt'annotte. — Ar-
rival of the Schooner Fanny A. Hyde. — The Cliaraeler of the
Crew. — Tlie Arctie Stores of Clothini,' and IVovisioiis. — The In-
terpreters. — Off for St. I.iawrence l?ay. — The Dogs. — St. Law-
rence Bay. — Tlie Chief f Jeorgc and his Story about a Ship. —
Lutke's Island. — The Last of Civilization

CHAPTKU IV.

nniFTixc; i.\ ick okk iikh.vi.d island.

27 Auf/tist — 30 September, 187!».

Thronjrh Hehring Strait. — Cape Serdze Kanien. — A Letter left for
Nordunskjolil. — Chief (Jeorge. — Koliiitchin Bay. — Definite Tid-
ings of the Vega. — Coasting an Ice-Pack. — Herald Island sighted.
— (Jrinding through the lee. — The Rudder unshipped. — Setting
Bear- Traps. — A Sledge- Party toward Herald Island. — Return of
the Party. — A Bear-Chase. — Herald Island Disappearing. — Ex-
periments to determine the Air breathed on the Berth Deck. — Con-
sumption of Coal. — The Drift Ice. — An Electric Phenomenon. —
Bills of Fare. — Daily Routine 104

CHAPTER V.

FAST IX TllK ICE.

Octoher — November, 1879.

Reappearance of Herald Island. — Condition of the Quarters. — Ross's
(Jull. — Jloisture between Decks. — New Land in Sight. — Winter
Routine. — A Beautiful Nii.dit. — Doctor And)ler's Dream. — Cracks
in the Ice. — The Noises of Ice Cracking. — The Grinding. — Clear

. Water on the Port Side. — Necessity and Anxiety. — The Dogs. —
Disappearance of the Sun. — Adrift from the Floe. — Distilled
Water. — Arctic Beauty

147

CHAPTER VI.

IHi; DKAI) OK WINTER.

Ddvinb'r. \S:'.) — 2(i Jtinwin/, 1880.

Auroral Displays. — Daily Walks. — Trouble with Water. — The
Darkness. — Monotony of Life in the Arctic. — Tests of Light. —
Discomfort. — The Shortest Day. — Cliristnias. — Tidal Action.—

CONTEXTS.

The Old Year and the New. — Festiviiics. — Danenhowei-'s Mis-
fortune. — A Cold Snap. — A F^t-ak. — Serious Business to close it.
— ThePureps. — Reapi)earaiice of the Sun . . . . .

188

CIIAI'TEK VII.

THE HKITHX OK DAYLIGHT.

27 JaiiUdii/ — Miirc/i, 1880.

The Pressure on the Ship. — Diniinulion of the Leak. — Lunar
Ilulos. — Bears and Bear Meat. — Engineerinjj Contrivances. —
The Amount of Salt in Ice. — Experience of Weyprecht and Morse.

— Condition of tlie Do;rs. — Forelmdings. — Observation under
Dilliculty. — Washington's Birthday. — Protection for the Eyes.—
Cheerfulness of the Crew. — The Thernionielors. — Damage to the
Ship. — Trench Dig-inir. — Soundings and Drift. — Fresh Potatoes.

— An Auroral Disi)lay. — E.xamination of Dr. Kane's and Dr. Walk-
er's Statements of the Pr.sence of Salt in Ice. — St. Patrick's Day.

— Ice Formation " _ 232

CHAPTER Vin.

UNDKK TUK MinNKJIIT .SUN.

April — May, 1880.

Change of Routine. — Saving Fuel. — Driving a Dog Team, A

New Resource. — Birds. — Dampness and Cohl. — Canned Food.

Completion of a Wimlmill. — Winter Lingering in the Lap of
Spring. — Pemniican. — Wasting of the Ice-Field. — Drift- Wood.
— Wahu.s. — Distant Land. — A Deep Hole. — Sunshine at Mid-
night. — Target Shooting. — Pure AVater. — Bears and Birds, —
Gloomy Weather. — Habits of the Dogs. —The Crew's Quarters. —
Danenhower's Condition. — The Ice as a Sledge-Road. — Bear
Hunts. — The Sick List. — Paiience ami Dullness. — Discoura>;in<'
Outlook. — Sledging. — New Leaks, — Lookinji for Release .

304

CHAPTER IX.

A FROZEN SUMMKR.

June — Auffusi, IS80,

Which Way does the Ice goV — Apjieafance of Insanity. — A Fall of
Rain. — Danenhower's Case. — Bad Walking. — Mostpiitoes. — A
Days Record. — Lanes of Water. — The First Punishment. —

CONTENTS.

I !

Stoppage of the Leak. — Meltinj; of thi- Surrounding Ice. — The
Ship in an Islunil «f Ico. — Tiiiekncss of Ice. — Punishment of
Dojis. — IrksGuiem-.-is of CoiiliiiLincnt. — Accident to Alexey. —
Tlio Height of Suniuier and the Depth of Discouragement. — The
UcsoUition of the Conipiiiiy. — Fog and its Effect on Ice. — Specu-
lations on Arctic Ii;e. — Studies of Sea Water Ice. — Tests ap])lied.
— Sudden Encounter witli a Hear. — Getting at the Propeller. — A
i'arty ot Bears. — Crimson Snow. — A Hopeless Outlook . . . 371

i I

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME L
I I-

ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL.

PouTRAiT OF Georgk WASHINGTON De Long. Ei.giaved by J. V J '""
Wilcox, after a Portrait by E. Wood Perry . . / Frontispiece

J'..KTRAiT OF Jamks (Jordon Bennett. Engmved by F. T Stuirt
aite. a recent Photograph . , . / ' ^

ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD.
PLATES.

The Adventcre in the Little Juniata. From a Desigb by M. J.
Burns. Engraved by George T. Andrew .,3

Ul'EKNAVIK . .

,, , 33

Entering the Ice. From a Design by M. J. Bums. Engraved by

George T. Andrew . . .,„

• • • . 117
SO.N.E OF THE D0G8. From Sketches by R. L. Newcomb. Facsimile
reproduction • . . .

A Fight among the Dog8. From a Design by M.' J. Bums.' En^ "'^

graved by George T. Andrew .
Returning from a Bear Hunt. From a Design by M. J. Burns."

Kngrtived by George T. Andrew ggg

VIGNETTES.

Arctic Steamer Jeannette ^.,

Portrait of Chas. W. Chipp. With Autograph * ' ^'Z

P..RTRTAIT OF John W. Danenhower. With Autograph ." ' ' 50

Portrait of J. M. Ambler, M. D. . . . . " " ^

Portrait of George W. Melville ... * *

Portrait of Jerome J. Collins ^

Portrait OF Ravmonb Lee Newcomb. With Autograph ' " 2
Portrait of Wiluam Dunbak . \ '

OUNA1.A8KA . '^^

XII

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

St. Michaki.'s

Xativk Tattooinc}, St. Lawrenck Bay

Honk I'ipk

XativkV Lami-

HoN'K IIaupoon IIkads
Xativk's Kmkk ok Honk .
Honk Siiovei,, Fkont Vikw
Honk Shovkl, Sidk Vikw

SKAL.S

Walkls

Ross's Gl'Ll

A Pkcili.vk Ilk Fokm

A (^UAKKKL OVKH A MkAT CaN

Thk Ivory (iiu. ....

A Polar Hkak . . • .

VVatching koh Skai,s ....
Thk Hlack (Jlillk.mot

PAGE
89

'.K>

KM)

101

10-J

10.S

1-J7
IK!
15:^
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214
231
2<M
2<i8
WO

iMAFS, CliAKTS, AND l)lA(a{AMS.

Chart showing; thk Tkack.s ok thk L'. S. S. .Iini.vta and Littlk
Juniata, whilk in Search ok thk Polaris .... 29

Cross Skction ok the Jeannktte ."0

Positions taken hy thk Jeannkttk whilk i>rikting Ice-Bolnd
KY Wranuel Island KJl

Position ok the Jkannktte in the Pack, Janiary 24, 1880 . 228

SKKTCH SHOWINd how THK CeILING WAS CKISIIKI) .... 275

CiRcr.Mi'OLAR Map, showing thk Highest Pt)iNT reachkd hy

DIKKKRKNT NAVIGATORS. Froiu the latest Aiitlu)rities. Fiuiiiji pufre ;U8
Position ok the Ship when thk Ick \Vas sawkd .... 420
Track Chart ok thk L'. S. S. Jkannktte, Liect.-Co.mm. (iEoiusE
W. De LoN<i, KROM San Francisco up to thk Sinking ok tiik
Ship; TtMiKTiiKR with hie Roitk kollowed by the Okkickrs
AND Crew in their Kscape over the Ice to thk Siherian
Coast .......... In Pocket.

PAGE
89

1(H)

101

102

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, 132
, 2(W
. 214

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. 2«)4
. 208

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. 29
. .".<)

. 101

. 228
. 275

I) HY

imj>e .'$18
. 429

TIIK.
ICKRS
KKIAN

III Pocket.

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

CHAPTER I.

THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

I'iireiitage and IJirtli. — Early Influences and Surroundings. — School
Lite. — The Choice of a Profession. — In the Law OlHce of Hon.
Jolin Oakey. — Forces liis Way into the Naval Academy. — A Mid-
sliii)inan who dispenses with Red Tai)e. — Deatii of his Parents. —
Marria<re under Dilliculties. — Promotion. — On the Juniata. —
Conunauding the Little Juniata. — A Perilous IJoat Journey. — His
Kecolleetion of his Experience. — The Arctic Fever. — Powers of
Endurance. — Temperament. — Frolics. — His Dealings with Meu.
— Testimony of an Associate.

George Washington De Long was born in the city
of New York, August 22, 1844, of a family of Hugue-
not descent. His parents, who moved to Brooklyn
when he was four years old, had no other child, but
they had adopted a niece of his mother's, Avho was his
principal playmate. His childhood was one of great
seclusion. His mother, especially, was almost morbidly
solicitous for him, so that he was jealously guarded
from outdoor influences, and restrained from the ordi-
nary sports of boyhood. The world seemed to the
anxious mother full of perils for her boy, and she was
unwilling that he should meet them in the near pur-
suits of swimming, boating, and skating. Hoire was

made bright and happy, and every innocent and safe
1

2 THE VOYAGE OF THE .IE ANNETTE.

pleasure granted him, not only out of parental love,
but with the t'on.stant ])urposo to .shield him from dan-
ger and accident. His father was of an easy temper,
who interfered but little with his education, only exact-
ing strict obedience.

It was not hard for the boy to give this obedience,
for the conuuands of the mother were never direct but
through the subtler influence of a strong maternal love,
and the disposition of the boy was one of generosity
and docility. lie was a hard student, thorough in his
application to books, and faithful to his school work.
His spirit and energy, hemmed in upon the adventur-
ous side, found exercise in an intellectual ardor, and he
was a fiery little orator and writer. NeverthelesSj and
it may be because of the repression to which he was
so constantly subjected, he was restless and tilled with
an uneasy desire for larger liberty.

When he was eleven or twelve years of age he fell
in with some tales of naval exploits of the War of
1812, which recounted the heroism of young midship-
men, Porter and Farragut being especially named, and
his ambition was kindled to make as great a reputation
for himself in the same profession. Shortly after, in
18-37, he was selected as a candidate, from the public
school which he attended, for an appointment to the
Naval Academy, but his parents refused their consent,
to his bitter disappointment. They had other plans for
him, and ])roposed to enter him at the Free Academy,
now the College of the City of New York, when an
accident occurred which led to a chauire in his life.
On one of those straight marches home from school
which parental law had made a ))art of the routine of
his life, he was the mark for a party of his companions
who shot their snow and ice balls at the exclusive little

I :

**W«Mft-«.—

rilE (•(►MMANDER OF THE EXI'EUITION.

De Long. A blow on the ear cansed an injury which
iviiuirod two or tln-oe months' detention in the house
under the doctor's care, and in this enforced leisure the
hoy and his mother discussed his I'uture career. She

irave

le choice oi henig a doctor, a priest, or a
lawyer, and of the three professions that of doctor
seemed to o[)en the largest promise of activity. At any
rate, when the boy had recovered he proposed to find

;thinj

about the life before he prep
and so engaged himself with his friend who had been
treating him, and stayed with him several months.

A familiarity with the outside of a doctor's life and
an attendance upon a few painful operations satisfied
George De Long that he had no aptitude for this pro-
fession, and he found little dilliculty in bringing his
mother to his way of thinking, when he unfolded to
her the incessant risks which a doctor ran of contract-
ing a great variety of contagious diseases. The next
profession was that of divinity, and his mother wa.s
urgent that he should study for orders; but without
going through any preliminary experimenting with the
life of a priest, the boy resorted to the argument which
had already served him well, and drew such a picture
of the privations and hardships of a priest's life, and
the dangers to which he was exposed in his contact
with the sick and the dying, that he succeeded in dim-
ming for his mother the brighter spectacle of a possible
cardinal, and in securing a reprieve for himself.

The arguments which he employed were the inge-
nuities by wliicli he persuaded his mother ; they were
not the convictions which moved him. lie had a reso-
lute, courageous spirit, which impelled him to a life of
free activity; but he had also the line spirit of oI)e-
dience and loyalty, which forbade him to break away

■ 11

4 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAVNETTE.

from the restraints of home, Jind roui^lily rebel against
the authority of love. Meanwhile he amused himself
with l)ooivs, tlie friends which his secluded life had
^iven him, iind spent day after day at the Mercantile
Tiihrary, where he read voraciously, feasting especially
upon books of adventure and travel. lie attached
himself to the librariiin, helped him al)0ut his duties,
and even fdled the office for a few months during an
interregnum. His restlessness was not satisfied, but
was stimulated by his reading, and Captain Marryat
and other seductive mariners au^ain gave him an almost
uncontrollable longing for the sea.

He was still, however, an obedient son, and when
his parents refused to yield to his wishes, he yielded
to theirs, and entered the law office of the Hon. John
Oakey, who became warmly attached to the boy and
])laced great confidence in him. It was shortly before
the breaking out of the War for the Union, and upon
Mr. Oakey's entering the service, George bogged hard
to accompany his friend, and lu'ged him to use his
infiuence in persuading the infiexible parents. Mr.
Oakey did indeed urge them to let the boy go, telling
them that a little rough experience would curb his
restless and ambitious spirit, and make him more will-
ing upon his return to remain at home the rest of his
days, — a well-w^orn line of reasoning which often has
an uncommon likeness to good sense.

It may readily be believed that the perils of army
life would scarcely aifect the imagination less than
those belonging to a learned profession, and neither the
boy nor Mr. Oakey could carry the day. This inces-
sant friction, however, began to produce its result, and
it is not unlikely that as George's ardor was increased
by his sense of national danger, so his parents' will was

THE COMMANDER OF THE KXI'EDITIOX.

his

weakened by the contagion of spirit in the connnnnity.
A place in the army had been denied the boy, and he
turned again with re(k)ubled zeal to his first love, the
navy. He went to his father and said : " I want to go
to the Naval Academy. You say yon will not assist
me ; but if I obtain an appointment myself, will you
give me yom' consent and allow me to enter?" His
father laughed at what he thought was his hopeless
determination, and answered, " V'ery well, if you can
accomplish such a feat, 1 will niidve no further objec-
tion," and his mother also gave her consent to what
she imagined to be impracticable.

With this perfunctory sort of permission the boy
went to work with a will. He wrote to Washington
for the necessary information regarding candidates, and
then applied to know if there were any vacancy to be
Idled by an appointment from the Third Congressional
District, represented at the time by Hon. Benjamin
Wood. The Department replied that there was no
vacancy, that gentleman having made his ajjpointment;
George meanwhile had eidisted the aid of his friend
Mr. Oakey, who went at his reqnest to Mr. Wood and
luged the boy's name, and of Father, now Vicar Gen-
eral. Quinn, who was Mrs. De Tjong's spiritual adviser.
Father Quinn knew the boy well and was ready to help
him. He also went to Mr. W^ood and easily proved
himself a powerful ally. It nuist be said, however,
that there was no influence quite so effective as the
boy's indomitable will. He learned suddenly that a
cadet who had been ap[)oiiited by Mr. Wood had been
obliged to leave the Academy from some affection of
the eyes. This was his opportnnity, and he gave no
one any rest till he received the appointment, when
he went to Newport, where the Academy was then sta-
tioned, and passed his examination.

Till': VOVACK OF TIIK .IK.WXKTTK.

I \

Just nt this iuncture tlio ollic(M's at iUv AciKleinv re-
coivL'd a dispatch tiom Mr. Wollos. Secrotary ol" the
Navy: "Do not accept Mr. Wood's apiiointec for the
navy." Back to New York riishe(l l)e lionj^ and de-
iiiaiided of Mr. Wood the reason for the dispatch.
Mr. Wood showed him u letter from the Secretary, by
which it ajjpeared that the nomination of De Lcmg had
been dehiyed, and tiiat tlio cadet whose phice he was to
fill had recovered his health and been reinstated. '• So
that ends the matter," said Mr. Wood ; but it did not
at all end it in De Lonj^'s mind. He burst into ji vig-
orous invective against the Department. It was all
wrong. Vt. Wood had been imposed upon. It was
becau.se he was a Democrat that this injustice had been
done, and the Republican Secretary was depriving the
Congressman of his rights. lie ought not to stand
such treatment an hour. Mr. Wood was amused and
moved by the zeal of the young advocate, and finally
said : —

'' Do you sit down, Mr. De Ijong. and write what you
want to the Secretary. I will sign the letter, and you
can take it to Washington yourself if you like."

The letter was written and De Long set off at once
to Washington. It was in the fall of 1801. when the
trains Avere packed with soldier.*, and the boy had to
stand all the way from Philadelphia to Washington.
He reached the city at six in the morning, and as soon
as he could get something to eat, presented himself at
the door of the Secretary's ottice, and was ready when
the hour came for business. He entered and handed
Mr. Wood's letter to the Secretary. Mr. De Long often
enjoyed telling of that interview ; how he watched the
various expressions of Mr. Gideon Welles's face as he
read the tem})estuous letter, which the boy had written.

V '

rilK CD-MMAXItElt OF Till: LXrKlHTloN.

< soon

Wlu'ii the Socretiiry linished, 1k' piislicd his spectacles
u\) and looked at his visitor.

•• And you arc Mr. De Lonjj^. are you V Well, well,
this is a very stranj^e state ol allairs. Mr. Wood seems
very niucii excited ; but he is laboring under a delu-
sion. We have no intention of slighting him in any
wav. You can return to the Academv. 1 will give
the necessary orders tor youi" reception there, and
please say to Mr. Wood that he shall not be deprived
even of his imaginary i-ight."

So it liaj)pened that there were three cadets from the
Third Congressional District this time, and one of them,
who had won his position by sheer persistence, was en-
tirely satisfied with the state of atl'airs. He applied
himself vigorously to the work of the Academy, and
was graduated with distinction in 1805, just as the war
came to a close.

He received his first orders for sea duty in November
of that year, when he was ordered to Boston to report
to \dmiral Stringham for duty on board the U. S.
Steamer Canaudaigua. Upon arrival at the navy yard
he went at once to the vessel to inspect his quarters.
He looked all over the ship, and finally entered the
steerage where he was to spend the next two years.
He inspected it very thoroughly and found that there
were but two berths in it, while it was to be occupied
by four midshipmen ; two therefore, it was plain, would
have to swing in hammocks. This was not at all ac-
cording to his views of what was proper, and oil' he
set to see the admiral about it, and have the matter
righted. On his way across the yard, he met some
officers who asked him where he was going. He told
his errand, and they at once approved it in the most
emphatic manner.

THE VOYACi: OF TMK .IKANXfyrTE.

'>!:

" Tliiit 's ri^hl I " they siiid. •• 'I'liu tiling should ho at-
tended to. .lust spi'uk to the adniinil positively ahout
it, and you'll get what you want."

The ytiuug luidshipuian was shown into tiie oflico of
A«Iniiral Striughain, an i-rcot gentlcuian with white
hair, and sharp black eyes, who sat at his desk wi'it-
ing. His visitor advanced toward him, cap in hand,
and siiid : —

•• Admiral, 1 am Midshipman Do Long of the U. >S.
Steamer (Janandaigua. Sir, 1 have heen inspecting my
(juarters on hoard, and 1 find only two hunks in the
steerage for four midshipmen. 1 came, .sir, to ask you
to have two more berths put in belbre we start for
.sea.

The admiral looked up quickly and said : " So you
are Midshipman l)e Long of the U. S. Steamer Canan-

1.1 M
aigua .

OS, sir.

" AVell, Midshipman De Long of the U. S. Steamer
(Janandaigua, I advise you to return on board the U. S.
Steamer Canandaigua. and consider yourself very hapi)y
that you hiive any bunks at all in the steerage."

The admiral wa.s better than his word, however. His
amusement was greater than his amazement, and he
ordered the additional bunks to be made. Years after-
ward he met again the innocent and resolute midshij)-
man and laughed heartily over their first encounter.

T':e cruise of the C uiandaigua was along the western
coas of Europe and Africa and in the Mediterranean,
and as a little over three years in duration. Mr. De
Loni. ivas promoted successively to be ensign and mas-
ter, { d, shortly after his return to New York, to be
lieut( lant. After a short leave of absence, he was or-
dered to the U. S. Steamer Lancaster, then at Norfolk,

TIIK Co.MMANItKU oF IIIK KXI'KIHTION.

Vn., hut uliilc sho was iJi-cpiiriiiij; tor sea lu» was placed
on duty in Washington loi- piacticc in si<;nals. Whilst
on this duty ln' was ti'h';^i'a|)h('d for to cona! to his
mother's sirk-hi'd. His lathiT ha 1 (hcd whiU' the (Janan-
daij-iKi was ahsi'iit on her cruise, and Mrs. Di- Loni;- had
heen k'tt alone. Shi* had a passionate love I'oi- her son,
and his long ai)seii('e, in a lil'e which was repugnant to
her choice for him, was a grievous hurden to her. Sho
was hrave and ujisolli.sh, and refused to euiliitter his
life with her c tuplaints ; hut her death, which occurred
now. l)rought afresh to him a sense of the relations
they had sustained to each other, and his naturally
huoyant nature was greatly dei)ressed wlu-n ho re-
joiiKMl the Lancaster, which had heen ordurcil to the
South Atlantic.

His depression was deepened hy the fact that hv was
waiting for the exi)iration of a three years' dela\', which
had been agreed upon between him and the father of
the lady to whom he had olVereil himself in nuirriage,
and whom he had met at Havre, where she was liv-
ing at the time of the Canandaigua's cruise in French
waters. His eager, impetuous nature wore out two of
the three years, when the delay became insufferable.
H(* obtained leave of absence, and presented himself in
Havre in PVbruary. 1871, where his persistence and res-
olution made y-ood the third year of his waitin*!;. The
Franco-Prussian War was nearing its close. An armis-
tice had been (h'clared, but Havre was accessible onlv
from the sea; conununication with Paris was cut off by
the Prussian army and the breaking up of bridges and
■ ailways. The harbor was occupied by a number of
foreign men-of-war, sent for the protection of neutral
interests, and among these was the U. S. Steamer Sl'"n-
andoah.

1^ ,1

» tf^

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTP:.

Such neutral interests us Mr. De Long enjoyed were
especi.iUy in need of protection ))y a United States
man-of-war ; for after all difficulties had heen removed,
and the resolution taken at noon of March 1st to have
the marriage performed in the evening of that day, since
the hride's father was compelled to return to America,
fresh dilHculties sprang up. Marriage in France is a
civil contract, and Mr. De Long saw the necessity of
securing the presence and services of General Glasgow,
the United States Consul. The consul, however, had
gone into the coimtry, and for several hours the anx-
ious bridegroom was driving frantically about on a
search for him. General Glasgow, when he was at
last found, began to explain the formalities which were
required ; but Mr. De Long was too busy for any trivial
matters, and was off on the more importJint errand of
buvinu; a weddino: rin<>;. The bride's family meanwhile
had secured the ser\ices of the Eev. Georo-e Washintj;-
ton, a cloixvnian of the Churcli of Eni^iand.

At eight o'clock a few guests assembled, and the
clergyman and consul were ]n*esent. Everything was
in readiness when General Glasgow turned to the cler-
gyman and said : —

" I suppose you have the proper authority to per-
form this ceremony. You know in France marriage is
a civil contract."

" I have no autiiority whatever," he replied ; " but I
supi)()se that if you, as United States Consul, witness
the ceremonv, the marriao-e will be IcmI."

'' On the contrary," said Genei'al Glasgow. '' con-
suls iiave no power to marry or witness mari'iages on
French soil ; the United States Minister at Paris is the
only person having such authority. This mari'iage can-
not proceed ; it will not be legal." Here was a sore

THE COMMAXDKl! OF THE EXI'EDITIOX.

perplexity. It Avas impossible to send lor Mr. Wash-
hum ; it was impossible lor Mr. Washburn to reach the
waiting couple. Moreover, the steamer which was to
take Captain Wotton, the lather ol ihe bride, was to
sail lor America in a couple ol hours. The fates seemed
against the marriage, and Mr. Ds Long was looking in
vain for a way out of the dilennna, when the consul,
whose learning had been so destructive, suddenly drew
upon his reserve legal forces, and exclaimed : —

'• There is a United States man-of-war in port, and
under the Hag she Hies this clergyman has a perfect
rigl to perform the ceremony of marriage between
two American subjects."

This simple and brilliant expedient was seized upon
with alacrity. Messengers and servan'^s were sent oif
in various directions. Captain Wells of the Shenan-
doah, who was a friend, immediately prepared his .><hip
for the ceremony by displaying all his bunting and dec-
orating with Chinese lanterns. He sent boats for the
party, who rowed out at half after nine of a brilliant
starlight night, and were received by the officers in fidl
dress uniform, and with all the music that could be
sunnnoned. The following entry was made in the
ship's log: "March 1, 1871. From 8 r. m. to mid-
night. ... At 10 p. M. the ceremony of marriage he-
tween Lieutenant George W. De Long, U. S. Navv.
and Miss Emma J. Wotton, of Havre, was performed
by the Rev. Dr. Washington, of the Episcopal Church
of Havre."

At the eufl of April Lieutenant De Long was ordered
to duty in the Ecpiipment Department at the New York
Navy Yard, and in January, 1872, he Avas ordered 1o
the Nantasket as executive ofh'cer. The ship cruised
in the Gulf, and in July he was detached from the

r ffi'

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

r i

Xiintiisket and orik'rod for the .same duty to the Frolic,
stationed in New York Bay.

At the close of January, 1(S73. Lieutenant De Lonjj^
was ordered to the Jur.iata, which was attached to the
North Atlantic sfjuadron. While at New York, in May
of the same year, news came that Captain Ty.son, sea-
man Nindemann, and seventeen others of the crew of
the Arctic exploring- steamer Polaris, had been picked
up by a whaler, while floating .south on an ice-lloe.
The report which they gave of the condition of the
Polaris induced the United States Government to send
a man-of-war to the relief of that vessel, and the
Juniata was selected for the <luty. She was slightly
strengthened for her special work, and dispatched to
the coast of Greenland. Lieutenant De Long entered
into the plans of the voyage with alacrity, and though
separating from his wife and child, he announced his
intention of volunteering for any unusual duty which
might arise. Something of the spirit in which he en-
gaged in the enterprise may be gathered from a letter
which he sent home while on the crui.se. Writing from
Sukkertoppen, Greenland, July lOth, he says : —

"Thus far the trip lias boon u very monotonous one to me,
and I don't suppose I shall begin to see any excitement in it
till our boat expedition leaves the ship at Cpeniavik. Then
to nu' the desirable poition of this trip will begin ; and if witli
the Messing of Providence w.' are so fortunate as to lind tlie
Polaris and her people, E ■hall consider our trip to Greenland
and its icy mountains as one well worth remembering."

The Juniata reached Upernavik, Greenland, without
coming upon anv further intelligence of the Polaris,
and it was not deemed prudent to take her further to
the north. Listead, it was thought best to send a boat
expedition to make a search along the coast, and Lieu-

THE C(JMMANDEU OF THE EXPEDITION,

tenant Do Long at once volunteered to take command
of the .search party. Ca})tain Braine accepted him and
gave him orders i'or the expedition. These order.s, and
an extract from the report which Lieutenant De Long
made upon his return, will best describe the search,
and the report will show more clearly than any com-
ment upon it the courage, resolution, and coolness of
the coimnander of the perilous boat expedition : —

U. S. Steamer Jux'ata (3(1 iiUl').

Ui'EnxAviK, Gkeeni.axd, JuIi) 31, IS73.

LlKITKXAXT CJeOKGE W. Dk Lf)NG, U. S. N.,

Command ill!/ tlw StetDn-Lcmmm Juniata.

SlJ'., — Tlio Littlo Juniata, the largest steani-launcli of this
ship, lias been carefully strengthened with outer planking, also
with an iron stem plate, and her propeller guarded with an
iron flame. She is thoroughly equipped, arranged, and [)ro-
visioiH'd for sixty days, under your supervision, for a search
fin- the r. S. J" Reamer I'olaris, along the fast inshore ice to the
northward of this ])laoe towards Melville Bay.

Vou will assume comniand of her, and at the first appro-
priate moment jjroceed to carry out said search as far as it is
positivi'ly ])rudent to advance to the northward.

In navigating these noi'therly and almost unknown waters,
much n;ust be left to your discretion, and your movements
must be controlled by the short time the U. 8. Steamer Juni-
ata will remain at Upernavik, which is until August 25, 1ST3.

You are enjoined to advise with the ice-pilot furnished you.
who has twice passed over the waters you are about to navi-
gate and wintered in the frozen Arctic r-jgions.

The Little Juniata is not to Ije jeopardized or pushed into
the ice-packs, if you meet them ; nor is she, or the lives of
those on board, to he involved in any way it is ])ossible to
avoid ; for you must remember that the U. S. Steamer Tigress,
a vessel equipped and prepared for ice cruising, will soon pro-
ct-ed to Uailin's Hay into Smith's Straits, to search for the
Polaris, up to the jioint where she .wa.; last .seen (Northum-
berland Island) in October, 1872, and you are reconnoitring.

Tin-: VOYAGE OF llIE JEAXNETTE.

previous to her going possibly to pass an Arctic winter in 77°
^'orth.

Slioiikl you find the Pohiiis, or her ofiicers and crew, you
will return with dispatch to Upernavik, at wliich place the
Juniata will remain up to the date previously mentioned ; and
you are not, under any circumstances within your control, to
be absent from this ship beyond fifteen days ; for which time
yt)U have coal, at a daily «,'onsumption of five hundred pounds.

Should you not find the Polaris by the time you liave con-
sumed one hall' of your coal, you are to return to L 2)ernavik,
and sooner if you meet any formidable ice obstructions.

Should the U. S. Steamer Tigress leave Lpernavilc before
you return, she will be directed to keep a lookout for you ;
and shoidd you meet her under any circumstances that war-
rant it, you will remain with her, if her commander deems it
most pruilent you should do si>; but, should the Little Juniata
be able to prosecute the voyage of return to U[)ernavik, I wish
you to do so, and be at that place on or before August 2a,
is73.

Should you not b(» at Upernavik by that date, I will leave
there coal and provisions sufiicient for your return to Godhavn,
Disco Island, where I expect to remain until September 20th
or 25th. or the latest days previous to the close of navigation
by the ice in those waters.

With hopes your search will prove successful, and that you
may find the Polaris, or gain some tidings of her, or be th.e
means of conveying through the Esquimaux to those on board
tlie news of the vessels now in search of her, I sincerely wish
you success in your undertaking. I assure you I shall await
with great interest your return to this ship from the hazardous
duty for whicli you and those associated with you have volun-
teered. Vou will be accompanied by Lieutenant Charles W.
( hipp, U. S. X., Ensign Si.hu'y H. :\ray, U. S. N., Pilot
lleiny W. Dodge : Richard Street, Boatswain's Mat<^ ; Fraidv
Hamilton, machinist; William King, seaman extra; Martin
T. Maher, ordinary seaman.

I am, most sincerely yours,

T). E. Pit.viXK, Commimdrr U. S. N.,
CiDiDnandhifj [J. S. S.-Tiotintd iiiuj Smlnr OfUfcr pn'yi'nt.

THE COMMANDEIl OF TIIK EXI'EUITION.

An Esquiiiiau, Jacob Lynghe, accompanied the party
a.s an interpreter and eoajst pilot between Upernavik and
Cape Sliackelton. Lieutenant De Long's report of the
expedition notes that he had before been charged by
Commander Braine with all the necessary preparations
for the expedition when the Juniata was at St. John's,
Newfoundland, where the launch had been specially
strengthened.

The dimensions of the Little Juniata were : —

Length ovir ull, yj lect (i iiiclius.
Length of keel, 28 feet 3 inches.

Bi'eiidth, « feet 4 inches.
Depth, t feet 1 inches.

She was sloop-rigged and carried a three-bladed pro-
peller.

" On Saturday, August :2d, at 12.55 P. M.," the report pro-
ceeds, " the boat being in readiness, provisioned, and supplied
with four tons of anthracite coal, I received your finid oideis
and shoved oil' from the ship with the dingy, containing twelve
hundred Jind seventy-eight pounds of coal, in tow, ;ind heartily
cheered by the ship's company, proceeded on our voyage to
the northwiU'd under steam, with ii fine breeze from the south-
west. I immediiitely organized tlie party and divided them in
two watches : on(> in charge of Lieutenant Chipp, and consist-
ing of himself, Mr. Dodge, Iltimilton, and Street; and the
other in my own chtirge, and composed of the remaining four
of the party, the Esquiiuiui being for the present excluded.
This arningement of watches was kept up during our entire
absence, the nllicers and men working alike, and turning in
and out with each other.

"At .^j.30 the same afternoon we passed the small settle-
ment of Kingitok, about twelve miles to the northward, and
working our way iimong countless icebergs and through nar-
row passes between islanils. arrived without accident at Tessi-
Ussak at eleven o'clock that night, and in obedience to your
orders left the dingy at that place to be brought back by a
Danish boat, landed six hiuulred pounds of coal from her for
our use on returning, took the remainder into the launch, and
Were ready to depart tit midnight. The weather, however.

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

8 «lii

1 1, I

■I

had set in bad, blowing fresh from the southwest, witli a thick
fog, and I deemed it prudent to wait until morning, or until
there was some chance of working through the fog with safety.
" Tessi-Ussak is a sm:^ 11 place of some half dozen Esquimau
huts, besides the house! in which the chief tradcn', Jensen, re-
sides. Jensen is the Dane who accompanied Dr. Hayes on
his several expeditions, as a dog driver and hunter, and is ap-

parently an excellent man, speaking English well, and willing
and anxious to be of service to Americans, of whom he speaks
in the most enthusiastic terms. At his hands we received a
warm welcome, and such hospitalities as his recent arrival and
consequent unsettled condition would permit.

" Tessi-Ussak has a small harbor, but it is nearly always full of
icebergs, and we were forced to anchor among them, too close
for comfortable contemplation, and Avith the chance of any
one of them turning over upon us. The night being rainy
and comparatively warm (45°) many icebergs broke up, and
the cracking and breaking and turning over and over con-
tinued during our entire stay.

rilK COMMANDKU OF TlIK KXPEDITloX.

"At toil A. Jr. Sundiiy. August 3d, the fog having lifted to
some extent, we got uiidei" way and steamed away to the nortii-
ward, passing in between Brown Island and the mainland, work-
ing our way among icebergs and keeping close in to the main-
land to keep in smooth water, and to be ready to slip in and
anchor, should a fog overtake iis. At four r. M. had ])iissed Cone
Island and Wedge Island to the westward, and sighted Ca])e
jSliackelton and the Horse's Head, a prominent island oflf this
cape, right ahead. Passed to the eastward, of the island, and
at eight l*. M., having Ca])e Sluickolton close aboard, determine
the posititm of tiie boat to be in iat. 73° 42' N.. long. 57° W.

" I had calculated before leaving the ship that wo should be
enabled with an expenditure of live hundred pounds of coal per
day to make an average speed of four knots per hour under a
steam pressure of twenty j)ounds ; .ind with a view to keeping
the feed water for the boiler as fresh as possible, a steam-pipe
had been carried from the boiler to the water-tank, for the
purpose of melting fresh-watvir ice, which we should pick up
on the way, and put in the tank. We found upon trial thus
far that the expenditure of steam to melt the ice was too great
to keep up our proposed si)eed, and I concluded to supply the
boiler with salt-water, which of course we bad to dip up from
the water outside. Running with salt-water increased our
expenditure of fuel, and I now feared that, instead of coal
for fifteen days as originally calculated, we would have only
<^nough for eight days. With our sails we may be able to do
better, should we be favored with fair winds. This day we
had light northerly winds, smooth sea; average temperature
of the air 45°, of the water 4P.

" At four A. M. Monday, iVugust 4tli, passed inside of the
Duck Islands, Baffin Islands bearing true N. E., weather thitk,
breeze coming nj) fresh from N. and W. and cloudy, with in-
dications of coming fog. This state of affairs continuing at
three P. M. I kept the boat away to the eastward, made sail,
and stood in for a headland, which, from its position and my
calculation of the boat's run, I assume to be Wilcox Head, in
about Iat. 74° 40' N. In getting undei- this headland, the fog
continuing, we made the boat fast to an iceberg, and waited

I I

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

for a cleaiiiig up. At five r. M. the fog cleai'ing, we slip from
the beig and round the hcadhmd to the northward. i\Iy ob-
ject in keeping in close to the shore now, though we were
working through icebergs, was to get u sight of the Devil's
Thumb, a remarkable jjillar of land north of Wilcox Head,
and from which I intended to take a fresh departure for cross-
ing INIelville Bay. But on rounding Wilcox Head we saw
nothing of the Devil's Thumb, and I imagined I might have
been deceived in the boat's position in the afternoon. Our
accommodations were so limited, the boat had to carry so
much, and the difHculty, not to say danger, of getting outside
of the boat was so great, that the log could not be hove with
any accuracy, and our reckoning was at the best not the most
reliable. The currents set us out of our reckoning frequently,
sometimes being to the northward and sometimes to the south-
ward.^

" Discovering another high headland to the northward of the
supposed Wilcox Head I stood on, getting in tolerably open
water, and having a smooth sea and no wind with clear sky,
we headed for this new high land. On going below at eight
1'. M. I directed Lieutenant Chipp to call me when nearly up
with this headland, or in case of any change in the weather.
At ten P. M. Lieutenant Chipp called me, a fog having shut
in, and land being entirely obscured, much ice being encoun-
tered in the shape of pack ice and icebergs, and some new ice
an inch in thickness. I immediately put about and attempted
to retrace our way, which we succeeded in doing for seveial
miles, but finally, owing to the increasing thickness of the
fog, we missed our track and were brought to a stand-still in
the pack. As far as we could see we were caught in solid ice
from about one to two feet thick, with large hummocks and
icebergs surrounding us. By steady ramming of the ice and

1 It is wL'll to iiots here for the infoiMiiiitidii of any who may rjct into
Allisim Hay, that the ehart is wrong i'l having it to bo imagined that the
hay is free except as to icebergs. It. is filled with small islands, running
afong about fifteen miles from the glacier line, and extending from Cape
Seddiin nearly fifteen miles to the southward toward Wileo.x Head. It
was the pi'esence of theso islands which confused us iu reference to Wilco.x.
Head. — G. W. Ke L.

THE C'OM.MAXDER OF THE EXPEDITIOX.

working si clear space about us, wo occasionally mad" small
cracks in the ilofs, and succeedcil in forcing our way a little
at a time, getting occasionally in open patches of water and
among loose ice, and making two or three miles before being
brought np again by solid ire. I had headed the boat to the
westward on losing (Uir way in the ice, and 1 knew that every
foot we made in that tlirection was toward the open water.
The temperature was from oO" to 3-°, the rigging was covered
with rime, and the new ice was rapidly forming around lis and
increasing in thickness. I did not dare to stop for a clearing
up of the fog, lest we should be Hrmly frozen in, and so kept
the boat under way with full steam pressure, grinding through
the ice where Ave could, ramming it wherever there was a
chance of success, anil following every little lead to the west-
ward.

" In all this I was guided by Mr. Dodge, the ice-pilot, whose
previous experience in the Arctic regions enabled him to give
me good advice, and upon whose judgment in this emergency
I relied, and handled the boat accordingly. The plan of keep-
ing to the westwaril proved a wise one, for at 8.30 A. M. we
Avere rewarded by coming into quite large spaces of cipe'i
water, and at nine A. M. were pleased to detect a little swl-u,
giving indications of an approach to the open sea beyond.
By ten A. yi. we were quite clear of the pack after our twelve
hours of uneasiness, and with no more damage to our little
craft than a slight scratching and splintering of our strength-
ening plank, occasioned by tluJ new ice through which we
forced during the ni^lit.

" I immediately headed the boat to the N. W. (true), N. E.
magnetic, and the fog clearing up by noon, we sighted at two
P. M. three islands on our starboard quarter, the Sabine Isl-
ands, marked on the chart as being in hit. 7')° 28' N., long.
59° oo' W. At the same time made out the glaciers beyond
to the N. E., a large number of icebergs, and a curious looking
hill with two peaks, which no doubt was the Cape Walker
marked on the chart, or land in its inimediate vicinity. Gen-
erally speaking, the chart is inaccurate to a great extent to
the northward of Cape Shackelton, the coast line, as we found

.(.

' h

11' i

TiiK V()VA(;i: OF TiiK JEAXxr/ni:.

it, being nearly always a glaoier li)ie. To the liest of our
ability to set! and jii<l<,a', the ice-j)aL'k was tolerably solid from
these Sabine Islands to the coast, showing that we were not
far removed from the edge of the Melville May pack. The
entire bay was dotted with clusters of icebergs.

" Ik'tween four and six r. M. we were favored with a light
fall of snow, the thermometer standing at 42°, with a light
S. E. wind and moderate swell. Knowing that everything
that coukl be accomplished by the boat must be done in line
weather, and that it would be well to keep a hold on the land
as much as possible, owing to the nncertainty of our position
and the inaccuracy of the chart, I determined to push on
with greater speed, in order to be as near the land as possible,
which at its nearest point was about fifty miles distant, and to
this end fired up afresh, making a large hole in our fuel.

"• At (Mght o'clock the next morning, Wediusday, August
Otli, wo had no hind in sight ahead, but we found ourselves
on the edge of the ice-pack, with a thick fog shutting in and
no signs of a lead througli. At about eleven A. M. land
showed itself abeam, bearing N. E. (true), in the shape of two
high hills, which jMr. Dodge recognized as the Peaked Hill,
marked on the chart as being in lat. 70° 18' N. and long. 02°
W. Just as we sighted this land, Mr. Dodge discovered a
lead in the pack to the westward, but the fog shutting in
thicker than ever, we were nnable to follow it, and I decided
to anchor to an iceberg ratlier than risk the boat on the edge
of the pack. We accordingly made our ice-anchor fast at one
P. M., but discovering the berg to be fidl of cracks and h)ok-
ing very nnich like breaking up, I shifted our anchorage to a
small ice-cake and banked fires.

" At this point I took an account of fuel remaining, and calcu-
lated that it was very nearly half gone. We had accomplished
this distance without any more serious mishap than oiu- danger
of being firmly caught in the ice in Allison Bay. Cape York
was only forty miles off, and the people of the Polaris might be
there waiting for relief. In the foggy state of the weather
burning coal without advancing would be a waste of fuel, and
I decided to let the fire go out under the boiler, hojiing to ac-

THE COMMANDKR OF THE EXI'KDITFOX.

cninplish sometliiiig luuler siiil .slioiikl tlio fog lift or ;i dmnco
lirt'seiit itself of gftting oirmi wiiter to the iiortliwaril. Accord-
ingly, in tho inoniiiig of 'riiursday, August Ttli, wo let tlio liro
(lie out. Tlio tlieruioiiR'tei- was at tiii.s time ut .'58°, but we
sulfered no additional ineonvenience on that account.

" During the forenoon it promised several times to dear up,
the sun showing itself occasionally for a few moments, hut
with little or no ctfcct on the fog. Heeoming tired of inaction
we slipped from the iee at O.4.") A. M., and making sail stood to
N. W. (true) with a light S. E. wind and swell.

" At noon I determined the position of the boat to be in hit.
75° 52' N., long. CA° 05' W. by our ilead reckoning, and the
last bearing we had of the land in the neighborhood of the
Peaked Hill. At four l>. m. came in sight of tiie ice-pack
again, and immediately hauled the boat up to \V, N. W. ( true).
Discovering a lead in the i)ack to the northward and westward,
stood into it for about five miles until Mr. Dodge pronounced
it a false lead, the ice closing in ahead, four feet thick, some
of last year's ice, and some older. Brought by the wind and
beat out of the lead. At eight the wind freshened from S. 8. E.
and we commenced to work to the westward, as much as possi-
ble keeping clear of the ice. At midnight hauled alongside of
an iceberg to fill up with fresh-water ice for ilrinking and cook-
ing. \[o(lerate sea.^

" At l.:iO A. M. Friday, August 8th, sighted high lan<l, bear-
ing N. W. by N. (true), and trending away to the northward
in an a|)parently low neck. This Mr. Dodge pronounced our
anxiously looked for Cape York, and at 2.30 A. M., having
worked ch^ar of detac^hed pieces of tloe ice, stood in toward tiie
laud, which we calculated to be about eight miles distant. At
three o'clock A. M. the fog shut in again thick and we lost sight
of Cape York. At the same time the wind freshened to a gale

' It was while thus fiiiployeil that Mr. Dodirc, the ico-pilot, noliecd a
crack in the beri,', ami mentioned tlic fact to Lieutenant ])e Low^. The
order was at once ^nven to shove ofT, and tlie Little Jimiiita had scarcely
reached a safe distance, when, with a ioml report, the iceherf; was rent in
pieces. The launch was tossed and tuinl)lcd by the waves caused by the
commotion, l)ut otherwise escaped unliarmed.

'I'm: vnYAci; of iiik .ikannktik.

from tlic S. I',., ;inil I wiis roiniicllcd li> biiii;,' tlic hoiit l)V tlio

WIIK

I iiiid

reel (low n ;is >\\[\iX <is poHsi

I.I.

At tliis time, liiiil \V(>

Ix'cii in open wiitcr. Ciipc Wnk I'miiil li;ivi' liccii ii'mi'IumI with-
out Miiv (litlii'ultv. I'lit ;is liir iis we cdiild sec to tin- iioi'tliwiinl.

the KM- Wils III 11

SdlUl

iiiii

k tliv.

tour led tliick. iiiid wii were

Hti'iin^liiiij iiloii;^ Oil till' t'd^o of it looUiiij^ I'or ii li';id, imd work-

iiiL;- to till' wi'stwiird in sodoiiit,'.

To till' N. I''-, tlic ice Wiisiilso

in ii lirni puck, with icchcr^s jiml hiiiniiiocks close cnouLjli to jirc-
vciit the opciiiiitf of the i<'i' to iiny extent. At noon I estalt-
lish the position of thehoiit in l;it. 7")^ 4H' N., lonj;. (Hi^ 50' W.

••In tlie iifleri n the S. l-,. gjile Imd cuused u feiirfid scii.

and workiii;^' as we were cm the edn;e of tlu! ice-park, onr situa-
tion Itccanie one of ^reat danf,'cr. The wind had started the
Melville May pack out from the land, and to the northward
and westward. niakiuL!,' a reo;ular bight in which we were fairly
placed. We had to carry sail in order to keep the boat under
control. Steam would have been of no use. since tlie Little
Juniata could not for one nioineiit have steamed against such a
irale. Lavin<r to was not to be thought of. h'.st we should drift

to the pack am

I b

ount

1 t

o l»ieCOS.

le prosp

)S|H'ct at this

time was a terribl(> one. Icebergs near us, one hundred feet
ill height, had the sjiray from the sea thrown over their tops.
Oil a[iproachiiig the edge of the pack ice we could see a scene
of great confusion. The bordering ice wouhl be broken in
large pieces, and hurled u)>on the more solid ice. only to be dis-
placed by fresh ])ieces torn adrift by the gale, and rolled over
ami over ui)oii the face of the jxick. The fate of the boat and
the p)arty apper.red certain. A\'e were lialf buried in the seas
at times, shipping (piaiitities of water and deluging everything

u' Ixiat.

rained in torrents.

Had

our sal

1 split

or onr

mast gone, nothing could have been done. Providentially,
everything held. iui<l ' (^ w»>re enabled to keep the boat under
some control. Tlse fog was very thick, making it extremely dif-
liciilt to see the ifc jiack <'acli time until we were fairly along-
sichi of it, ill wliicl

1 case we

del:

)t i

IV, not Knowinir m so

had to wear sliij) at once without
doing whether we ct)uld clear this
grinding and crushing mass of ice or not.

'• This state of all'airs continued until ten o'clock on the

lis

I' <l

■»/

THE ("OM.MAXDEl! OF TIIE KXPEDIIIOX.

morning of Saturduv, August !>tli, ;it wliicli time there came
a lull. We liad tlieii been in tliis heavy gale thirty hours, and
were in a very cold and exhausted state. Everything was
completely saturated with water, and we had so much water
in the boat that I feared she had sprung a leak. The Little
Juniata behaved wonderfully well, anil tlid moi'e than such a
small craft could have been expected to do. With our fire
room flooring covered with water, the coal bunkers half full of
the same, every locker in the boat afloat, all our bailing miist
have made little impression on this bulk of water which was
constantly increased by the seas shipped at every one of the
fearful plunges of the boat and the showers of spray thrown
over us.

" We hailed with great relief the lull in the wind which
gave promise of a bi'eaking up of the gale, and fearing for the
safety of tiie boat siiould the wind subside leaving this fearful
sea running, we attempted to get a fire lighted under the boiler.
This was no easy matter, and for a while see'vi^-d impossible.
The matches we had taken with us were wet and useless. The
tinder was likewise saturated and of no avail. After several
hours' work we succeeded in getting a friction match d,y
enough to ignite, — Ensign May having wanned and dried it
by keeping it next his body for that purpose, — and with this
match we lighted a candle in a lantern, which was almost im-
mediately extinguished by a gust of wind. By a repetition of
tlie same process Mr. May secured another lighted match, and
this time we succeeded in keeping our candle alight. We at-
tempted then to build a fire, but f vtiy stick of wood was soak-
ing wet. 13y t;iking cotton waste and punk, wet as they were,
and pouring oil plentifully over them, we succeeded at last in
lighting oui' fi:e.

''During this time the wind had moderated and hauled to
the S. W. 1 calculated the boat to have been in lat. 75° 4H'
N., long. 68° 30' W. on the port tack (wind at S. E. true), and
long. 07° 10' N. on the end of each starboard tack. Wo had
been running on a line nearly east. and west during the gale,
making about twenty-fi\e miles on each tack before wearing
ship, and obliged tc go over nearly the same ground on ac-

'■

■/ 1

I ''

h i^:i

Till': VOYACE OF THE JEANNETTE.

count of icebergs, liiHing to the wind as occasion served or
required.

"■ At this point I was forced to the conclusion that prosecut-
ing the search any longer was oui of the question. My orders
read positively to retui-n when the fuel was half expended, and
on no account to risk the boat in the ice-pack. The fuel was
half gone, and wiiat was left was in sncli a condition as to lead
to viM'y grave doubts as to its being reliable for steaming on the
return. As far as we could see to the northward and eastwai'd
was pack ice, and it was in this direction that our port lay. I
did not know how close to the middle pack we had been blown
during tlie gale, and I feared if the wind came out in the N.
W. we should not only be blown down upon the Melville Bay
pack, but be followed by detached portions of the middle pack,
and be caught firndy between the two. Again, if we had suc-
ceeded in working our way through a lead in towards the land
and had reached it, we had not fuel enough to work our way
back through the pack ice, supposing that a N. W. wind had
not closed us in for the year.

" Up to this time we had seen nothing of the Polaris or of
her people. Had they been at Cape York, it would not have
added to their chances of safety had our little party increased
their number, with the ice effectually closing our means of
exit. Anxious as we were to find them, and tell them of relief
coming, I could not further risk our party being caught in the
ice in an open boat, with the season closing, new ice forming,
and only fi '1 enough to keep us warm for a few days. I did
not know how far the U. S. Steamer Tigress was behind us,
nor what our cliances would have been of her rescuing us, had
we been frozen in. The weather -vas uncertain, r.nother gale
like our ])revi()us one was by no means unlikely, and my orders
exjtressly forbade me to jeopardize the lives of the party by
putting the boat in the pack ice.

" Heluctantly, therefore, I was compelled to announce that
the search must be given up, and headed the boat to the S. E.
on our return, having steam enough to go ahead at four T*. M.
Having gone up on the inshore track, I concluded to return
by the oflshore, or mid-channel track, in hoptL- that we might

Tir. t'OMMANDEI! OF THE EXPEDITION.

did
us,

hat
E.

lu-n
rht

sec something of tlie Polaris or her people, but in this we were
not gratified.

" The wind continued hauling to the westward, soon reduc-
ing the S. E. swell, and creating a swell from the N. W.
Befoi'e this we went along at a good rate, the weather clearing
gradnall)-, the ice-pack disappearing astern.

" Sundaj', August 10th, oi)ened clear and pleasant, so con-
tinuing till past meridian. For the first time since leaving
the ship I succeeded in getting observations, and established
the boat's position at noon, in lat. 74° 45' N., long. 59° 37' \V.,
having run nearly one hundred and fifty miles during the pre-
ceding twenty-four hours.

" At one P. M. sighted the Devil's Thun-b, bearing true N. E.
by N., distant about sixty miles, verifying our position at noon
with tolerable accuracy. The weather here became cloudy
and squally from W. S. \V., with snow, hail, and rain. Wind
shifting again at four o'clock to S. W., with moderate sea, and
so continuing till nine P. M., from wdiich time to midnight we
had light, variable airs.

" Monday, August 11th, opened clear and pleasant Avitli
fresheinng breezes from N. E. At four A. M. sighted land on
port bow, which 1 recognized as Cape Shackelton, and at 5.30
A. M. sighted the Duck Islands on port beam. This day and
the day previous we had considerable trouble with our fires.
Knowing that we were short of fuel, we economized as much
as possible, and were sometimes rewarded by the engine stop-
i)ing itself for want of steam.

" At noon got our latitude by meridian altitude of the sun
ti) be To" :')H' N., or on the parallel of the Horse's Head, which
iv>w showed itself on our port be.am. We then headed in for
r>'\Mvn Islitudoff Tessi-Ussak, favored with a fine breeze ivom
s. N. W., with long swell, which led me to think that the
weather had been unsettled after our departure from ra])e
York. At midnight we were inside of Brown Island, heading
in for Tessi-lssak.

'• At one A. M. Tuesday, August 12th, sighted Jensen's
liouse, and discovered a steamer apparently at anchor in the
harbor. She immediately thereafter steamed out toward us,

\
K

* ■' r

t. J

?'■;

!■•'

1 1

1 '

(

tj" i

TIIK VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

and coming alongside of us proved to be the U. S. Steamer
Tigress, Connnander James A. (ttiht, from Upernavik the
previous evening. I boarded her and communicated to Com-
mander (ireer the result of our reconnaissance, imparting to
him the circumstances of wind, weather, ice, and other details
relating to iiis coming journey, up to four o'clock on tiie after-
noon of Saturday, August 9th, at which time we left the neigh-
borhood of Cape York. I exhibited to him my chart, showing
our track going and returning, reported to him the prevalence
of pack and new ice in Allison Bay, and respectfully recom-
meniled him to strike to the N. W. from Cape Shackelton, in-
stead of looking for tiie Devil's Thumb.

*' 1 idso offered him the services of our entire party and
boat, jH' "-sing our willingness and readiness to accompany
iiim to L'. thward in his search for the Polaris, which ser-

vices, to oii great regret, he declined. Receiving from him
his mail and despatches for you, I left the Tigress at two A. M.,
she innnediately steaming to the westward to round Brown
Island, and the Little Juniata stood in for her anchorage in
front of Jensen's house. The people of the Tigress were all
well, in good spirits, and enthusiastic as to their success, which
we heartily wished them in spite of our own disappointment.

" At 8.40 A. M., having received on board the six hundred
pounds of coal, left with Jensen on the 2d, and having received
from him some seal blubber in case we ran out of coal, we got
our anchor and steamed away, passing among the same islands
and through the same channels as in going north, and, favored
with fine weather and smooth sea, reached the ship without
any mishap at eight P. M. to-day, and were warmly receiv»'d
and welcomed back by you and the other officers iissembled at
the gangway.

" It now remains for me to hope, in submitting this report
to your consideration, that my conduct in the affair will meet
with your approbation, and that though we were unsuccessful
in the endeavor to find the Polaris or her people, no means
were left untried that the nature of the difficulties met with
and the limited ability of our boat would allow. T believe the
Little Juniata to have accomplished more than was expected

THE COMMANDER OF THE EXI'EDITION.

of liei- m reaching the parallel of 75^ o2' N., there successfully
working through a gale of great violence, ami running nearly
seven hunclred miles while away from the ship. With the
limited chances for keeping a reckoning, owing to thick foggy
weather, and the constant discomfort of being in wet clothin-',
with every article in the boat drenched by the rains, or by the
waves breaking over lier, I fear that this report will not prove
as satisfactory for navigation purposes hereafter as would be
desired. I have made this report to you i)! detail, omitting no
circumstance, however slight, that a fair, general idea might
be obtained of the circumstances of Arctic navigation in an
open boat, even at this the most favorable season of the year.

" Througiiout this trip the officers and men worked alike,
and fared alike, and as we are unanimous in our regret that
as far as finding and relieving the Polaris was concerned we
failed, we beg to assure you we are of one voice in volunteer-
ing for any subsequent exp. lition from this ship or from the
United States, in which our efforts can be made useful, or our
experience in the Little Juniata of any effect.

" I cannot close this report without commenting upon the
great interest taken in the matter by yourself, the provision
made for our comfort, and your thoughtful care that nothing
shoiilil be wanting to insure our safety and the success of the
expedition.

" I have the honor to be, Ciiptain,

" Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

" Geoege W. De Long, Lk-utenant U. S'. Nnvi/,
''Late cominandiiiff Little Juniata.^'

^ During the absence of the Little Jimiata, Captain
Braine had met the Tigress, and been greatly alanned
by the representations made by the captain and ice-
pdot. The Danes and Esquimaux, also, at the settle-
ment, expressed the gravest fears for the safety of
Lieutenant De Long and his parl.y, and it was with in-
tense relief that Captain Brhine welcomed the Little

I. i

I'i

• :

'iiiK V()VA(;k of tfik .jkanxkitk.

Juniata back. Captain Markhani, avIio was on the last
EngTis'\ expedition under Sir Oeorge Xares, considered
this boat Journey as one ol" the most liazardous and
venturesome undertakiiijis he had ever known. Men
to save their own Hves will take such risks, but they
rarely court them to save others. Melville Bay is re-
nowned for its dangers, and whole tleets of whalers
have been crushed in the ice whicii crowds it.

The following letter, which Lieutenant De Long
wrote to his wife alter the expedition, gives in more
famiUar form some of the impressions which his expe-
rience left upon him.

U. S. S. Jl'xiata, Godiiavn, Disco Island,

(ilfEEXLANI), AllfJUSt I'.), 1873.

I pri'Siiine there will be no question as to our having tried
our best to iind the Polaris, and as to our having tried every
means to accomplish it, but it was a physical impossibility to
drive our boat through ice four feet in thickness, and so we
\ver(> compelled to turn back. I made a long report of the
expedition covering twenty-three pages of otHcial paper, and
of course I cannot give you such a complete description of it
in one letter. However, there were some things which I did
not include in my report, and these things I can write you,
and you can know they were reserved for your readuig first.

In the first place, I am thankful to God for having spared
me to come back to you again, for I assure you I felt pretty
Avell convinced on tAvo occasions that I was going to leave the
bones of our party in the ice. It was, to say the least of it,
a perilous journey, and our experiences of the ten days are
things which I shall remember for the rest of my life. There
rested on my shoulders the fearful responsibility of saying
how far we should go, and how far the lives of our little party
were to be jeopardized ; and surrounded as we were by dan-
gerous circumstances, I had an amount of care on my nnnd
tiiat I do not desire to have again for such a lengtli of time
even as ten days. Our boat, to begin with, was a small one,

TIIK COMMANDKU OF 11 IK KXPKDITION.

iiiid we were louiled down with cH)al iind wliat jirovisions wo
should retiuiro. Tlio great object was to carry coal so that we
might be able to steam, and we fiUeil up every avaihiblo nook
and corner with that precious artick'. We iiad to sleep upon
coal, and that made a hard bed, I assure you : and when you
acUl to that the tact that we were wet to the skin almost from
the time of our start, with our blankets soaking always, you
can understand that we had veiy little comfort and less rest.
We had eight in our party, and kept watch and watch, of
course, and in bad weather all hands had to be around.
Cooped up in a small spai'e, there could be no distinction made
between otlicers and men, and we turned in and out with each
other.

I cannot give you any very accurate idea of our trip with-
out writing a fearfully long letter, and so I will only refer to
the leading incidents. About one hundred and twenty miles
to the northward of Uj)ernavik we were caught in the ice.
Now, beiiig cauglit in the ice means starving to death or
being frozen to death, if you have to stay there. We got
caught in it by accident, for we were following a lead in the
ice when a thick fog shut in and new ice commenced forming
around us. On attempting to work back the way we had
come, we missed our track and were brought up standing.
Such a night of anxiety I hope never to have jigain. We
were fast, ice was making iiround us and thickening all the
time ; nothing to be seen for miles but ice. Mr. Dodge, who
had spent a long time in this part of the world, shook his liead
rather dubiously. Still, I was not disposed to give up -without
a fight. We kept ramming the ice all the time, trying to
drive through it, running into every little crack we made,
grinding and scraping, trying to break through ahead of the
boat, so as to make a clearance. Sometimes we would get
into a narrow lane of water and run along nicely for a hun-
dred feet or so, and then bang I we werv ujrain at a stand-still.
This continued for twelve hours, and fin. ill) we got clear.

Our next mishap was getting in a gale of Avind when about
eight miles from Cape York. We had been on the edge' of
the ice-pack looking for an opening, in a thick fog, when this

TIIK VOYAOi: OF TUK .lEANXKTTK.

vn'

giilc ciunn oil, und for tliirty hour.s wt; woic, \vitl> doiilit.
on the liiiiik of eloniity. Tin; boat was iR'arly a. Jiu tinif
buried by llic sea. she was liall" full of water, we wero sur-
loiiiided by icebergs a Imiidivd feet at least in height. The
broken pieees of iee were being hurled like stones on the face
of this iee-pack and groiiiid to powder, or else thrown over
and over like hiva from a voleano. Had we struck this ice,
our chances would have been slim, — in fact, I would rather
have been in the worst surf that exists than have been thrown
up against this terrible wall. Looking back at it now makes
me tremble, and I can only say that it was a miracle of Divine
I'rovidence that we were saved. When the uale broke we
were in a pitiable condition — hungry, cold, and wet, not a
dry thing in the boat. The ice was all heaped up between us
and Cape York, and getting through it was an impossibility.
( )ur coal was nearly all gone, and we liad yet to get back to
the ship. I had to decide to return, and had we not been
favored by a breeze, we would not liave reached here yet. As
it was, when we met the Tigress we were burning pork in the
furnace to got into 'J'essi-T'ssak.

Captain Braine and all hands seemed over^ \ to get us
back. It appeared when the Tigress met uniata at

llpernavik, (\iptain Tyson, who was one of the survivors
picked up on the; ice-floe, expressed the opinion that we were
as good as lost if we met any bad weather, and that set every-
body to thinking very seriously how perilous a journey we
had undertaken. Wiiat the people on board the Tigress could
not understand was my volunteering for the expedition, and
many sad shakes of the head and sayings of " Poor De Long "
showed how little they expected to see me back. When the
Juniata sighted us returning, the ship was wild with excite-
ment, the men manning the rigging and cheering us until we
came alongside. AVHien I stepped over the side so buried in
furs as to be almost invisible, they made as much fuss over me
as if I had risen from the dead, and when the captain shook
hands with me, he was trembling from head to foot.

The Juniata returned to St. John's, Newfoundland,

(

riii: coMMAXDKu OF Tin: kxi'pidition.

without hiiviiii;' trained any I'urtlier intelligciu'e of ilie
Polaris, and although it was Septonibi'i-, Captain iJraino
rcreivi'd orders to return to (heenland, on the same
errand. The ship had j'nst started when a telej^rani
I'eaehed the United States eonsnh countermanding thi*
Juniata's saihng orders, since the Polaris' crew had been
])icked up and rescued by tlie whaler Arctic, Captain
Adams, and had Ixh'U taken to Scotland. The consul
iiired a tug, steamed alter the Juniata, overtook her,
and connnunicated the pleasant tidings. The vessel
shortly alter returned to New York, and Lieutenant
De Long wrote to the Department tendering his ser-
vices in event of another Arctic expedition. Mis in-
domitable energy, strong will, and passion for overcom-
ing obstacles, all tended to develop in him that Arctic
fever, which so often fastens upon one who has once
known the excitenuut, ditUculty, and peril of northern
exploration.

The courage and persistence wdiich he showed upon
the boat journey were credentials of great value, and
the personal attraction which he exerted was to be a
powerful aid in overconung obstacles. These qualities
will appear in the fuller narrative of his experience in
his great voyage, although, since the narrative is from
his own hand, the reader may sometimes fail to meas-
ure the degree of Ids heroism. Something of his
power of endurance may be learned from a little in-
cident which befell him a few years after the events
just related.

It was when he was executive officer of the School
Ship St. Mary's, and was working the ship up the Tagus
River, Portugal. He was standing on a horse-block
(a slight elevation on each j^ide of the deck) when a
rope fell from aloft. Fearing it might injure a stand-

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ing compass, wliieli it probably would strike on its de-
scent, he sprang to catch it, and instead of alighting
on the deck as he expected, he came down on a coil
of rope, and turned iiis right ankle under Iiini. The
pain was excruciating, and as he was on the point of
fainting, he went below, where the doctor revived liiui,
and he retiu'ned again to the deck. It was ten in the
morning when the accident occurred, and he stood and
worked the ship -up the river to Lisbon untd four in
the afternoon, when his agony l)ecanie so intense that
he was obliijred to go below. Flis dutv was done, how-
ever. The doctor examined his foot and found it in
a dreadful condition. One of the bones of the ankle
was broken, and the edges \v:,\\ been "-ratinti: and break-
ing for the six hours he had been walking al)out on it.
The hot clinuite of Lisbon and of the return trip were
ni^tunilly unfavorable to a rapid recovery, but the per-
fect health and vigorous constitution, which he had
kept unimpaired, were his allies, and he was left with
no ^tii'l'ness of the ankle and no ill effects. He attended
to his duty as usual after two weeks' rest, and the car-
penter, Nindemann, made for him a pair of crutches,
U])ou whicli he hobbled about and took his watch as if
nothing had lia[)pened.

The courage and endurance whicli he displayed under
difiiculties and trials Avere qualities of a ruiture which
was superabundant in joyousness and activity. His ad-
ventures at sea and on land were full of incident, and
often oifered the most amusing situations. While in
Lisbon, in 18G7, a grand perfonnance at the Opera was
to take place. The king .and queen, the court, and all
the officers off duty of the various fleets lying in the
harbor, were in '"ttendance. Between the acts, Mr. De
Long and several of his friends were introduced behind

l\ J

THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

the scenes. Seeing the prima donna come upon the
•stage from an opposite wing, Mr. De Long picked up a
large pasteboard bouquet, which was one of the stage
])roperties, and marshaUng his friends in a line behind
him, advanced to meet liei. She made some motions
which he failed to imderstand, and with his hand upon
his heart and his best l>o\v he tendered the gigantic
bouquet. Just then a perfect shout went up from the
audience, and cries of '• De Long I De Long!" were
heard. He looked around in bewilderment before he
took in the situation. His friends had al^andoned him,
the curtain had gone up. and he was playing his little
piece before the great audience. It is scarcely neces-
sary to add that he made his exit without the slight-
est ceremony.

Another anuising incident in Lisljon arose out of a
wauer between Mr. De Long and another officer as to
who could do the most with a horse in a circus ring.
Neither gentleman was a horseman; what sailor is?
but they were equally bold. Their first proposal was
to ride standing iqion a pad, but the ring-master to
whom they a?)plied would not give his consent. He
luul once gi-antod such [i request for a similar purpose,
and brought upon himself a severe rebuke when one
of the parties, a young German nobleman, was seri-
ously injured. He would give the officers each a sad-
dled horse, and let them test their horsemanship to
their hearts' content. So they went through various
<3Volutions equally well, and jumped some low hurdles,
but neither ''ould be proved to have outdone thu other.
Finally the ring-master s^^epped. forward and said : —

" There is but one thing more I can suggest to de-
cide the wager, and that is for each in succession to
ride into the stable, take a turn round, come down the

111

:}!i

I ■

if'

■ j

I 'h

Ir, I

f :

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

inclined plane, and juniiD over this five-barred gate into
the ring."

This was agreed to. Mr. Do Long's companion, be-
ing senior in rank, was to make the first attempt. He
made his tnrn of the stable, came down the inclined
plane, took the gate, and landed gracefully in the saw-
dust a few feet in advance of his horse. When Mr. De
Long's turn came, he resolved to die or conquer. He
rode round the stable, came down the inclined plane at
a gallop, tightened his knees against the horse's Hunks,
and shut his eyes. To use his own words : '• When the
horse s])rang for the leap it seemed as if I had started
for the sky. I shut my eyes tight, and my next sensa-
tion was that of being struck by an earthquake. When
the animal landed in the rinu- I was clutching hold of
his mane frantically ; and when I opened my eyes, I
was away up the horse's, neck, almost on his ears, but
I was there, and the wager was decided in my favor."

In his intercourse with his associates, and especially'
with the men and boys under his command, he showed
an unfailing courtesy and kindness, while he was inex-
orable in his maintenance of discipline. A slight in-
stance of his kindness is shown in the following inci-
dent. One rough, cold and windy October night, he
was sailing a boat in Lonu' Island tSoinid with a crew of
St. Mary's boys. Noting that one of them had l)ecome
wet from salt-water washint:; over him, Mr. De Long
qiuckly took off his own coat and handed it to the l)oy,
telling him to put it on. The lad hesitated at accept-
ing such a sacrifice from his otlicer, but the stern com-
mand, '* Do as you are bid, young man," soon caused
the boy to obey.

" I can only say," Mr. De Long once v/rote, ''' that
with men I never allow any argument. Were officers

5 1

THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

.Ml

and men to argue each order before carrying it into
execution, there would be an end to discipline. I never
a.sk a man to do anything that 1 would not do myself,
and on one occasion I led them aloft when they hesi-
tated to obey an order on the score of danger. With
firnniess I can yet be kind, and I always had my men
contented and comfortable. I have no hesitation in
saying that I believe any men who have sailed with me
would go willingly again."

One of his associates on the St. Mary's, recalling that
earlier experience, has written : —

*"■ A few (lays after the appearance of the newspaper notice
of Lieutenant De Long's orders to the New Yoi-k Nautieul
School Ship St. Mai-y's, one of the inquisitive marine aspirants re-
marked to one of his chums, ' 1 wonder what sort of a chap
that fellow De Long is Avho is coming here ? '

" He soon learned that 'that fellow De Long' was a perfect
master of the situation, always equal to the various and often
trying emergencies at sea and in port. His courtesy to all and
interest in the boys took away the hardness of his rigid dis-
cipline.

" When questioned by a reporter, ' Are the oHieers kind to
you ? ' a lad of fifteen replied, ' They are as kind as they can
be, and when Ave were at sea they treated us better than when
we were near land. We liked them for that. Tliere *s Cap-
tain Pliythian, and Wadleigh, and De Long, and all of them ;
they are as nice as they make them.'

" From that estimate to the high tribute which the gradu-
uteo iind members of the Nautical School have recently paid to
the memory of De Long, no moment is wanting wlion ho has
not been looked up to and honored as a man not only of rare
heroism but of eminent fitness for the works ho has been se-
lected to perform."

CHAPTER II.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION.

^!il

Coiivi'i'sation witli Mr. Giiiiiiell. — Proposal to Mr. IJennett. — Mr.
Bennett's Response. — Delay in Plans. — Searcli for a Suitable
Vessel. — Purcliasc ol; the Pandora. — Sketch of Operations. —
Dr. Petermann's Views. — Lieutenant De Long repairs to Englaml.

— Balloon Ascensions. — The Pandora renamed the Jeannette.

— Lieutenant Danenhower joins tiie Ship. — tiie Voyage to Sau
Francisco. — Action of Congress. — Survey of the Ship. — Liter-
view with Secretary of the Navy. — Alterations of the Jeannette.

— Considerations of Economy. — Captain De Long's Labors. —
The Officers of the Party. — The Crew. — Advice from Outsiders.

— Orders for the Expedition. — Mr. Bennett's Farewell. — Outlook.

When the Juniata was ordered to the coast of Green-
land, Lieutenant De Long called upon Mr. Henry Grin-
nell, of New York, to obtain from him any information
which his long connection with Arctic explorations
coidd afford. Mr. Grinnell offered the use of charts
which liad been employed on the several expeditions
he had fitted out, and upon the return of the Juniata
Lieutenant De Lonti; restored these charts to Mr. Grin-
nell, and acquainted him with his own experience. The
two held a long talk upon Arctic subjects, and shortly
after Lieutenant De Long dined at Mr. Grinnell's in
company with Dr. Bessells and other Arctic voyagers.
At this dinner Mr. De Long asked Mr. Grinnell : —

" Why do you not fit out an expedition to the North
Pole ? I should like much to take command of one
and solve the problem. You have tried so often you
ought to try again."

PIIEPAUATIONS FOR THE EXPKDITIOX.

" I am too old a man," replied Mr. Grinnell, " and I
have done my share. Younsj^er men must take the
matter in hand. Tliere is Mr. James Gordon Bennett.
He is the man to undertake such an expedition. You
should apply to him."

It was the first day of Novemher, 187o, when this
conversation occurred, and Mr. De Long acted promptly
on the hint, and wrote to Mr. Bennett, who was then in
Paris. Mr. Bennett had already considered such an
expedition, and made a courteous reply, but upon his
return to this country early in 1874, a personal inter-
view with his correspondent convinced him at once
that the most important element in the expedition, the
man to command, was found. Mr. De Long hi his let-
ter had named Lieutenant Chipp, his companion on the
Little Juniata, as one whom he should like to have as-
sociated with him, and from the first Mr. Bennett re-
garded him as Mr. De Long's right hand man.

The matter rested until near the end of November,
1870. There had been, it will be remembered, some
complications with Spain which at one time made war
seem possible, and it was inexpedient to consider tlie
expedition under such circumstances. Mr. De Long
was detached from the Juniata in January, 1874, and
ordered to the Brooklyn, with which he remained till
near the end of the year, when he was transferred to
the Nautical School Ship St. Mary's, which was com-
missioned by the United States Navy, but was under
the supervision of the Board of Education of New York
city.

In November, 187G, Mr. Bennett and Lieutenant De
Long resumed their consideration of the expedition,
and it was determined to look for a vessel with all pos-
sible dispatch, and to start for the North Pole the fol-

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

lowing summer. Inquiries were made in all available
quarters lor an Ameriean vessel, but none could be
found ; and in December Lieutenant De Long obtained
a two months' leave oi absence from the St. Mary's and
went to England on the same errand. It was expected
that Mr. Bennett would join him shortly, but he was
detained in America until just before the expiration of
Lieutenant De Long's leave of absence, when he joined
him in London.

Meanwhile Lieutenant De Long personally, and
through confidential agents, was employed in diligent
search for a vessel. Special effort was made at the
northern ports from which sealers and whalers were
sent out, and he was constantly examining such vessels
as seemed to gi\e promise of fitness, but the difficul-
ties seemed to increase. Poor vessels wx're offered at
high prices ; good ships the owners would not sell, as
whalebone was so hi(>h that one cruise to the Arctic
more than paid the first cost of a vessel. The only
suitable one which seemed to be in the market was the
Pandora, owned by Sir Allen Yoimg who used her as a
pleasure yacht in trips to the Arctic regions. Sir Allen
Avas indifferent to the safe, and the purchase had not
been effected when Mr. Bennett arrived in London.
Mr. Bennett wished Lieutenant De Lonsi; to ask an
extension of his leave of absence, but this would have
worked, at the time, so much injustice to the officers
of the St. Marv's that Lieutenant De lonii; refused to
make the apj)lication and returned to America.

DuriuiiC the season that followed a constant and vi<2;i-
lant watch was kept up, but the Pandora continued to
be by far the most available vessel. Sir Allen himself
was an explorer of note. He was with Admiral Mc-
Clintock when the first records of the Franklin expedi-

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Mi- 41

I' If*

PREPAUATIONS FOK THE KXPF.DITION.

tion were found, and had made a nmnher of subsequent
voyages. The Pan(h)ra was a vessel in which lie took
great pride, as he had ])urehas(>d her expressly for
Arctic expeditions, and had teste<l her well on such
voyages. lie parted with the vessel to Mr. IJennett
under a sudden impulse, and then regretted his loss so
keenly that even after the vessel was ready for sea he
made inelfectual efforts to recover her.

Lieutenant De Long was attached to the St. .Alary')?
in New York harbor, as executive oflicer, when ho
received news of the purchase of the Pandora. He
immediately resigned his ])osition and secured a six
months' leave of absence. Pending further word from
Mr. Bennett, he wrote him at length, January 25, 187S,
giving his views of the course to be pursued, and the
letter is interesting as showing the comprehensiveness
of the plans which he formed and the promptness with
which he acted : —

"Since receipt of information on the 17th inst., that yon
Lad imvcliasod tlie Pandora, I liave Ixhmi momentarily expect-
ing a siunmons to join you in England. Acting upon your
notification to get six months' leave immediately, I secured the
necessary permission from the Department upon tcn(lt>ring my
resignation as executive officer ol" the St. Mary's. Obtaining
a leave of absence for a second time from that vessel was, as
I had previously int'oi-med you, out of the question. By dint
of extraordinary exertion I secured my release within foi-ty-
eight hours of my knowing you wished me to get six montlis'
leave, and I liave since that time remained with truidvs packed
ready to sail. . . .

'•There are three ways for us to send the expedition,
Smith's Sound, liehrinu; Strait and east coast of Greenland.
Of the three I am in favor of Behrhig Strait, though some-
thing can bo said in behalf of the east coast of Greenland.
Professor Nordenskjiild has i-eceived some information from

I'U'

;

\\^

^ !

]':

■10

TiiK v<»ya<;k of tiik .m>:anm:tti:.

our Ilydrograpliitr OHico in relation to IJclirinj^ Strait, and a
copy of this information will bii furnisluul us. Wo may bo
al)li' to accomplish much by way of IJcliring Strait by leaving
S,in Francisco as lato as July 1st, but I would liiie to Ik; ready
by June 1st or 10th. My opinion may be changed by what
you have heard from Dr. Petermann, but as you liave not
told mo what that was I cannot say now.

"Now I wish to submit the foUowing points to yon for your
action. It is highly important that I should be in England to
see the Pandora repaired, and got ready for sea. A small
omission now may cost us the success of the expedition in
tiie end. Chipp shoulil be recalled from China 1;^ cable at
once, and if you think favorably of my suggestions, 1 e or-
dered to take the Pandora arouiul the Morn. Upon the pas-
sage of the bill transferring the ship to the American flag,
there should bo a measure introduced and put through Con-
gress, authorizing the vessel to be commanded and otHcered
partially or entirely by naval olhcers, the pennant of a na-
tional vessel hoisted ai the main, the crew shipped subject to
naval rules and discipline, and the President- empowered to
confer such additional authority upon the commanding oilic> r
as will render him able in his isolated position to enfoiw. <.1.3-
cii)line in extreme emergencies. Then I want an order from
the President in something like the following words : ' You
are hereby ordert'd to command the expedition now being pre-
pared and fitted out by James Gordon Bennett, Esq., of New
York, fc<' the purpose of North Polar explorations ; and you
will report t( ilie Secretary of the Navy iov said duty and for
such detailed issistance as you require.'

"The assist.iiice of the Treasury Department should be in-
voked to order its {;gent in Alaska to provide; seal-skin cloth-
ing for about thirty-five people, in height from fivi; and a half
to six feet, and to secure say forty dogs, ani' Lo c . if pos-

sible, about one hundred tons of co; ' ,e use of the San
Francisco navy yard and dry dock lie asked I •. The

memorial to Congress should ask i the <lift'erenL ilepart-
ments of the Government be authorizid to a' i and assist us in
every way ; to provide us with all instrumtiits and appurte-

PI!EPAI!AT[(»XS Fol! TIIK KXPRDITIOX.

nancoH, stores iincl outlit.s, which might then ho in ^'ovcninuMit

JtOSHCSSlOn,

till

This letter iilso contnlned estimates
ol" the expedition on a three years' cruise.

The reference to Mr. Bennett's correspondent' witli
Dr. Peterniann recalls an earlier visit to the German
geo^n'apher 'svhicli Mr. JJennelt had made in Marcih,
1877, and of wliich he wrote to Lieutenant De
Lonji; : —

"• I havo just returnc'd from a luirriod trip to Gotha, on a
visit to i)r. Peteniiiiim. You have no doubt heard of him by
reputation. It Avas lu> wlio originated the two German Arctic
expeditions. I can assure you the three hours 1 spent witli
him fully repaid me the tireson\e tiij) to Gotha. He told me
he had been stuilying the North Pole problem for the last
thirty years, and that he feels certain it can be reached, but
never, he said, by Smith's Sound or Ballin's Pay. He agreed
with me that the English held to this route simply from pride,
and because they were the first (so to say) to go that way.
He also agreed with me, and if I remember correctly, it is
your theory also, that the Pole can only be reached by a dash,
and he even goes further than we do in this theory, for he
says it can be done in one summer, and that with a suitable
vessel and commander experienced in ice navigation, he would
himself try the experiment for a three months' cruise. Of
course, this bars being nipped in the ice, just as his doctorship
would be about pivparing to return on his homeward voyage.
He also said that all the authorities in England agree now
that the Pole will never be reached by sledges. Dr. Peter-
mann even goes so far as to say that wintering in the i\rctic
regions is a mistake if you can in any way help it, and that
if his route were taken it could be reached in the three sum-
mer months, or not at all. Said he: 'From all my informa-
tion, I find that it is the second winter, and not the first, men
most suffer in the Arctic regions, and strange us it may appear,
men from southern climes, such as Italians or Greeks, have

fe-.

THE VOrAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

withstood tlie rigors of an Arctic wintcn- hotter than North-
men, such as Dunes and Swedes.' I liave heen seriously
thiniving of getting anotlier vessel in addition to the one you
will hiv\'e, and starting myself by Dr. Petermann's I'oute. Of
course, if I did so I should expect to be out all winter, as I don't
quite !igree with the Doctor about his three months' idea."

Not long after dispatching his letter Lieutenant De
Long crossed to England to .superintend the prepara-
tion of the Pandora, since renamed the Jeannette, for
the Arctic expedition. He vi.sitcd the yacht at South-
ampton as soon as he arrived, and after careful exam-
ination telegraphed to Mr. Bennett, who was in Leices-
tershire, that it would be impossible to repair the
Jeannette and get her ready for sea early enough to
permit the expedition to start that year for the north
by Behring Strait, though it would be possible to go
either l)y the Spitzbergcn route or by the east coast of
Greenland. The Behring Strait route, however, had
by this time become firmly fixed in the minds both of
Mr. Bennett and of Lieutenant De Long, and it was
determined, therefore, to proceed with the repairs of
the Jeannette, to send her round the Horn to San
Francisco, and be ready to start for the north early in
the summer of 1879.

The rea.sons which determined the course of the ex-
ploration, besides the failures from other points, w'ere,
in brief, the existence of the Japan current, flowing
through Behring Strait to the north, and the supposed
extent oi" Wrangel Land. It was hoped that the warm
waters of the current would open a way, possibly to
the Pole. The experience of whalers was that when-
ever they had been obliged to al)andon their vessels
in those regions, the vessels had been drifted north-
ward, and the inference was that the currents generally

rilEPAllATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION.

llowed in that direction. This Avonl<l help explorers to
make a high latitude, though it would, for the same
reason, increase the dilliculties of return. On the sup-
position that Wrangel Land, now known to l)e a small
island, was ji vast continental tract, it was expected that
tlie Jeannette, in accordance with settled principles of
Polar exploration, would follow its coast line to the
north. When the vessel could work no further, sledge
expeditions were to start out along the ice-ibot to make
a still higher latitude. Dr. Peterniann, indeed, sup-
posed Wrangel Land to stretch across the Poh^ and
to reappear as Greenland of the Western continent.
Added to these considerations was the comparative
novelty of this com^se, wdiich woidd render the expe-
dition fruitful in observation and discovery, even if it
failt.'d of its main object.

Among the schemes wdiich were brought iorwai'd in
connection with this, as w'itli other Arctic expeditions,
was that of balloon ascensions, and though in the im-
perfect state of the aeronautic art, even under the best
conditions, there seemed to be little chance of any
practicable use of balloons in the Polar regions, both
Mr. Bennett and Lieutenant De Long made the most
careful and thorough examination of the subject before
linally relincpiishing the scheme. Mr. Bennett's secre-
tary in England, writing lo Lieutenant De Long on the
subj'ect, says : —

"I have written to Paris to inqu re concernini:f the balloon
material, etc., as you request. Mai'khaiu and Hull were not
mueh inelined to put any faith in balloons. Markham said he
would eonsidcr an ex])lonition by that jnethod as simple niail-
ness, aa the balloonist would be unable to carry with him the
meai^s of returning, and would be certain to ]ierisli before he
oould get back. As a means of making observations from a

11 •'

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNE TTE

lu'ight jibitve the vessel or its vicinity, lie thought ;i captive
balloon might be uselul if not too diilicult to carry anil inilate.
He did not think it would be of the slightest service in sledg-

111 response to the inquiry made in Paris, a report
was obtained from the eminent Frencli aeronaut, M.
Willrid de Fonvielle, as to the best manner ol" preparing
balloons lor use in the Polar regions; and as a contril)u-
tion to science, a translation of the report is printed in
Appendix A.

The subject had first been broached by Lieutenant
De Long to Mr. Bennett, and upon receiving the above
he replied : "In writing to you on the subject of bal-
loons 1 did not intend to convey the impression that I
favored balloons as a means of getting- to the Pole.
I believe in them for but one object, and that is to get
an increased height above a ship to command a larger
horizon. A favoral)le occasion may be Avaited for, and
one ascension may save many days' weary Avork in a
Avrong direction." He wrote also to Mr. Samuel A.
Kinir, the aeronaut : '• Will vou be kind enough to take
into consideration the subject of an Arctic balloon? I
desire, if possible, to employ a balloon (with a ro])e at-
taching il to the sliip) for the purpose of commanding
a greatei' vicAV in order to select Avater channels for my
vessel : and to have the lifting power npplied to sledges
and their loads to lessen the dilliculty of dragging them
over Hoes and hummocks." 'IMie result of inquiries is
contained in a subsequent letter from Lieutenant De
Long to Mr. IJei'uett : —

'• I have had a long and interesting interview Avitli Professor
King, th(^ •balloonist," and I am forced to the conclusion that
Ave cannot do anything with balloons in Arctic explorations.
To supi>ort a weight of one hundred und eighty pounds human.

F i rMan wun fm i ini

rUEPAKATIONS FOR TIU: EXPf^DITION.

lle.sli (my own weight), and say .seventy pounds rope, at a
height of ono Juui(h\'(l and fifty foet, would require a balloon
about twenty-two feet in diameter, according to Professor
King. To fill this enormous machine requires gas generated
from coal, or gas generated from the action of sulphuric acid
on iron cuttings : in the hrst manner we siiould require a coal
mine near at hand, and in the second manner we should need
another ship to carry the sulphuric acid and iron cuttings.
The second ]ilan is of course impracticable, and the lirst would
eonu- in merely in case we strike a vein of coal in Kellett (or
Wrangel} Land. TIk^ cost of a balloon would be between
seven hundied and eight hundred dollars, and under the cir-
cumstances I cannot recommend you to adopt it on cither the
score of usefulness or economy. While we were digging out
coal enough to float tlie balloon, we miglit advance twi'uty-five
miles with sledges, or afoot, and reach the extrimie horizon to
be seen from the prospective elevation."'

No iiicidontnl intore^ts of tliis kind could compare
Avith the im])ortance attaching to the coiulition oi" the
Jcannctte herself, iwn] the conunander was unreniitting
in his attention to the ])reparations made in the sprinj^
and early sunnner of 1878, when the vessel lay in the
.shipyard at Deptfonl. Kverything was done which his
own experience and that of professional surveyors
could suggest for the repair and strengthening of a
vessel already well built and equipped for Arctic voy-
ages.

The Jeannette was linally ready for sea, and was
taken to Cowes, where she ship])e(l her crew and then
crossed the clunnud to Havre, where she arrived .lune
18. 1S78. She hivat Tlavre for a month, during which
time she was iusj)ected by many visitors, and the com-
mander completed his ecpiipment o*f charts, ))0()ks, and
stores. On th" 4th of July the vessel was formally
christened. Mr. IJennett sailed for New York on the

It B

I :1

1];

M»

t r

■'

1^9

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXXE 1 Ti:.

Gth, and the Jeaimette acconiptuiied him a short dis-
tance on his way and then roturnod to the hasin, leav-
ing; Havre for San Francisco July 10, 1S78.

Captain De Long was in connutuid. and had with him
iiis wile and child. Master John W. Danenhower went
with him as executive olHcer. He had been attached
to the U. S. Steamer Vandalia, which was conveying
(fcneral Grant and his party from port to port in the
Mediterranean. The ^'andalia was stationed at Smyrna
when the news came of the proposed expedition, and

Mr. Danenhower offered his services to Mr. Bennett.
General Grant seconded his ai)])lication. and Mf ^ .i-
nett accepted him, provided Captain l)e Long should
give his consent, which he did. Mr. Danenhower was
detached from the Vandalia and joint'd Ca])tain De
Long in Havre just before the Jeannette sailed.
Two of the ship's company, John Cole, boatswain,

riJErAUATlOXS FOU THE EXPEDITION.

and Alfred Swcftinan, carpeiitei", were also oi' the nuiii-
ber who went to the north. They liad served on Mr.
Bennett's yachts, and the former especially received
the highest praise from him. " You will lind Jack
Cole," he writes, " one of the best sailors you ever
have had luider you. lu times of danger he 's worth
his weight in gold, and his tact with men is won-
derful."

The voyage to San Francisco was a hundred and
sixtv-live days, and duriuii' the passage not one from
the ship set foot ashore, though the Jeannette anchored
three times in different bays of the Straits of Magellan.
One little incident of the voyage may be recorded.
When off the coast of Brazil, aiul a hundred miles from
any land, two little birds Hew on board the ship to
rest ; one was a tomtit and the other a field lark.
They had evidently been blown off shore l)y a gale of
wind. They showed no fear but refused to eat any-
thing, though everything in the sha])e of grain which
the ship contained was offered to them, and even some
lively cheese, which might be a ^[)ecial inducement to
insectivorous birds. They would ,ake no nourishment
at all, and the tomtit died of hunger and exhaustion.
The steward, a Swiss, composed some verses upon his
melancholy fate, and these, with the latitude and longi-
tude, were put with the little tomtit into a bottle, which
was addressed inside to the "' New York Herald " and
thrown overboard. It has not yet I'cached its destina-
tion. The field liu-k Hew out oi'the cabin door, left open
by accident, and conlil not be recovered. It tiew off
the ship and then made successive efforts to return, but
its strength gave out and it saidc at last into the water.

The voyage was a stormy one. and when noaring
San Francisco the ship encountered a norther which

W,l^'*ftW.-*'''tTf *!•••''■■ '**l»*^- ■

-:S

h I

! '■
I

' a»

THE VOYAGE OE THE JEANNETTi:.

kept her from making port, as had been hoped, on
Christmas. Two days hiter, December 27, 1878, the
Jeannette shackled to a buoy at the Mare Island navy
yard, in the bay of San Francisco, Avitli jnst one bucket-
ful of coal left on board.

A month later a bill was introduced into Con«'ress

which i)rovided : '■ That the- Secretary of the Navy be,
and he is hereby, authorized to accept and take charge
of, for the use of a North Polar Expedition by way of
Behring Strait, the ship Jeannette, owned by Janies
Gordon Bennett, and by him devoted to this purpose ;
that he may use, in fitting her for her voyage of ex-
ploration, any material he may have on hand proper
for the purposes of an Arctic voyage ; and that he is
further authorized to enlist the necessary crew for the
said vessel for ' special service,' tiieir pay to be tempo-
rarily met from the pay of the navy, and to be paid or
refunded by James Gordon Bennett to the Navy De-
partment, under the order of the Secretary of the
Navy and as he may require -, the vessel to proceed on
her voyage of exploration under the orders and in-
structions of the Navy Department ; that the men so
' specially enlisted ' as above shall be subject in all re-
spects to the Articles of War and Navy Regulations and
Discipline ; and that all parts of the act approved
March 18, 1878 [which gave aulliority to the Secretary
to issue an American register and detail olficers], in-
consistent with the above, bo and they are herel)y
repealed : ])rovided that the Government of tl(e United
Stiites is not to be held liable for any expenditin-e as-
sumed, or to be inciu'red on account of said expedi-
tion." The terms of the act gave rise to some in-
cidental questions r(\garding the material which the
Secretary might employ, but in the main it was clearly

ritEl'AllATIONS FOR THE EXPEUITION.

understood tliat Mr. Bennett was to meet all expenses,
while the Govenunent was to have all the authority.

Captain De Long was thus acting under the -direction
of the Secretary, while he was also iMr. Bennett's linan-
cial agent, and the situation called for the constant ex-
ercise of judgment, that the expedition might neither
fail of anything that should make its equipment com-
plete, nor 1)0 a source of needless expense to the gen-
erous patron. From the day when the Jeannette
dropped anchor in the bay of San Francisco till the
day, six months later, when she weighed anchor for
her final voyage, the conunander's care was incessant.
His watchfulness was comprehensive and minute ; no
detail escaped him, and he laid his plans broadly and
firmly. He had (!onstant need to exercise tact and
persistence, and devoted himself unweariedly to secure
the best interests of the expedition.

His first concern was to see that the ship wus in the
best condition for the voyage. The Department had
ordered an examination of the Jeannette by a Board
of Survey, and on the 24th of January Captain De
Long wrote a full report of their proceedings to Mr.
Bennett, and added the result of his own careful and
minute examination. His intimate knowledge of the
ship, as she was when she left the hands of her former
owner, and his accpiaintance with the imjn'ovements
then made, followed by his ex[)orience in bringing her
round to San Francisco, enabled him to understand
thoroughly what further was necessary to make her
ready for her northern voyage. The final decisiim as
to her outfit rested with the Secretary of the Navy,
and Captain ])e Long suggested, therefore, that it would
be expedient for him to consult with him before the
final orders were given. He was accordingly ordered

I'lIK VUYA(JI': OF THE .JEANXETTE.

to W.'ishingtoii by tlio Secrotary, and the result ol" their
conl'orenc'^ a[>[)earo(l in a letter which Captain I)e Long
wrote to Mr. JJennett I'roni Washington, February 20,
187'J.

"■'■ Wlioii the request was niade to tlie Secretary to send for
lue ti) cniirer whh liiin, ho h)st no time in doiii}^ so. [ reiichcd
\\'iishingt()u on the loth, and liad ii short interview with him
on thut (hite, and a Inmx one on th(! lIUli. Notliintr could ex-
ceed the pleasure ol' my reie[)tion on both occasions. He
expressed himself as personally and ollieiully interested in the
success of the expedition, and inilii-iteil his conviction that we
had struck the "iitewav to the; I'ole. He assured me that as
soon as the bill now before Congress should pass, authorizing
him to assume charge of the expedition, nothing shoidd be left
undone which we desired to be done. Said he in substance :
'iVssoon as the bill passes I shall order you oUicially to the
connnand, and then you shall have just what you want in your
own fashion, -.lall have just as nuich and just as little work
done as von desire, shall ^et what men von want, how and
where you please, shall ecpii[> and prepare your expedition
after your own designs, and shall, in line, have all the aid tlu^
Navy Department can give you. When yon sail I intend you
to have the sanie power that is conferred upon admirals com-
manding lleets, with the addition of being absolute in your
command and authority, holding your subordinates accounta-
ble to J'ou, and yourself accountable to me. This ex[)edition
must succeed, and you shall be pre[)ared and forearmed against
all disall'ection, insubordination, and disaster.'

" Surely nothing nner than this can be asked. The bill
provides for using any material now on hand at the disposal
of the Department."

It may he added to tills that the Secretary's good
will was doubtless reinforced by tlic contagious ear-
nestness ol: his visitor. Secretary Thompson has since
said, in a speech delivered at the Melville-Berry reci'p-
tion at the National Capital, September 28, 1882 : —

I'lIKPAKATIONS FOR TIIK KXI'KDITION.

"Mr. 'Jeimott curly siii^i^csted and iirj^tHl on tlio DepavtmcMit
thiit Lieutoniuit !)(> Long should 1)(> assij^nod to tlio coniiiiiind
of the expedition. 'The N;ivy Depiirtnient would hiive been
justified in not niakiiii; the appointment, unless assured that
])e Loni; possesses! the other (piidilieutions, aside troni profes-
sional ahility, neeessary to th(> dischartft! of snch ii duty. As
regarded his professional skill, his lirother ollicei's in the navy
bore universal attestation to that, and the Department was
aware that in this respect h(> possessed all that was necessary.
It did not take many interviews witli De I.ong to tell that ho
was a man of courage, devotion, jiKlgment, and will, ami pos-
sessed all the (pialities which fitted him for this duty, 'i'he
other selections were necessarily made as the result of confer-
ences with him, and the Department was more or less in a po-
sition to b(! guided by his views."

Captain Do Long had a miignctic powoi" which made
him t^intjcuhirlv suecos.sl'iil in dealint? with men and iu
carrying ont the purposes which ho conceived. lie
was always scrLipuU)iisly considerate oi" the rights and
privileges of others, and exceedingly careful of the per-
sonal relations which ho held toward them. While ab-
sent in the east he wrote to Master Danonhower, wdio
had been sent forward to Mare Island navy yard,
where the Jeamiette was being strengthened, and af-
ter detailing the nature of the work which had been
ordered, concluded : —

" The foregoing will give you a general idea of the work
already begun, and as likely to be in hand during your pres-
ence at Mare Island before my arrival. It is decided by the
Secretary of tlu^ Navy that all materials are to be given by the
yard, and nnu-ely the labor paid for. It is therefore necessary
that we should so act that the cnsf of labor should not be
alarming. . . . The labor being paid for by ^Ir. Hennett needs
great consideration by us. . . .

" Upon your arrival at Mare Island, you will of course re-

TllK V()YA(;i: OF I'lIK .IKANNETTE.

,!( ^^'

■ <•'

iv\

i
1

port to tlio coiuiiian laiit, iiiitl in as ilelicato u manner as possi-
Itlc n'pi'osent to liinv that you aiv come to aid in tlie work to
l)« clone on board tlie vessel, and to act in providing tl e moimy
to be paid by .Mr. Bennett lor labor; and request his perinis-
sicm to ask the coiiperation of the constructor, chief engineer,
nnd e(iuipmeut ollicer, in every way wliich may jjresent itself
for saving money. Then wait upon the three last named gen-
tlemen and ask to be permitted to look at and after any work
which may be going on, not as an interference with them, but
as one going on the expedition, acquainted with the ship, know-
ing my views and .lesii'ous of giving information on various
subjects, and with time enough to go into various small details,
Avhich they, in their great occupations with more important
tilings, w'ould not care to be bothered with, etc. Request also
that they would indicate to you such methods of procedure as
seem right and proper to carry out our views W'ithout infring-
ing upon any etiquette whatever.

"As the work desimiated has been ordered done through
the commandant by the various chiefs of bureaux, the laborers
and workmen will, of courst , i)e hired by the navy yard au-
thorities. Hut sho:dd it seem to you that too many men are
enq)loyed, or that any man so (Muployed is idling his time, a
j)roper representation to the head of the Department will no
doubt have the necessary eil'cct. This is a delicate affair,
which I must leave to your tact and discretion, advising you
simply that there can be no impropriety in any one's wishing
to save money, and 1 do not see how it can be objected to. . . .

"•I will now leave the matter in your hands, asking you to
use your best tact and discretion to accomi)lish my wishes in a
smooth way and to the benefit of the expedition. We are all
interested in making the expense as small as possible, both to
the Government and to Mr. iJennett, and there are many ways
in which this can be done. The earnest cooperation of Mr.
Fletcher and Mr. Much [oilicers coimected with the yard] is
promised, and they may point out to you many little econom-
ical plans.'"

How strongly Captain De Lon_<^ felt the force of
these instructions to Master Danenhower appears fur-

rilKI'AUATIOXS Foil THE KXI'KDITIOX.

ther from a letter which lie sent to xMr. Bennett at
the same time, in whieii he writes : —

"Mr. Diinenliower has started for San Fraiu.isco. I luive
gi\('n liiiu tlie fullest directions us to his course of action, ini-
l)rosslng upon him that the object of his stay there is to save
as lUMch money as possihle. If I can have a copy made in

Scrfiori
Coal nnnkem lufurv Tioifm

^'/l0»trri/ nc^y Ihiiun.'iHtss,
iff.

Section-

throuijfv

Firf Tfoom in front of Boilers.

S/to*yutt/yirranfjitticritj,

OifUJiurilcerj,

CROSS-SECTION OF THE JEANNETTE.
Tlie water-line is at A.

time for this mail. I shall send you his instructions in detail
for your inspection and I hope ai)proval. It is not necessary,
perhaps, for me at this moment to assure you that I consider
your interest identical with my own, and that I am laboring
to keep down expenses with as much zeal as if I were to foot
the bills instead of you."

Again, a month later, wlien writing to Master Da-
nenhower, he urged the same plea : " Will you and

**»ww'-BW««t«iiiiA<LW:i»^^ ».*

ill)

iiii: V()VA(;i'; of riii: JKAXxiyriK.

(."Iii[)l) take the niiittcr oi' stri[)i)ini;' (Ik; .xhip into iid-
visL'iiitMit, and k-t inc know yoni- ()|)ini()n with lin-m'cs.
It is sncli little itt-nis as tluvc iiundicd dollars liure
mid five Imndri'd dollars tlit're that run awav with tho
monoy, and I am more carctnl about spending money
bi'l()U,uin<j,' to Mr. IW-nnott than if it wciv my own."

'riic >4'oneral result ol" the work done n|)on the ship is.
thus sunnned up in a letter to Mr. Bennett, written in
the hard-earned leisure which came alter the Jeannette
U'I't San Francisco : —

"• Lot inc ^o hut'k a iitllt* to tell yoii what had Ix'cn doiiti to
the ship, and iiow 1 foaiitl tliinirs working' at tlit; navy yard
when I readied it on tlie :)Ot]i of May. Tlic repiui-.s, or nitlicr
the alterations, Avero ('()in[)!eti'd and the new iKtiicrs \v(M'e in
place. Tiie bow had been filled in solid tor a distance of ten
feet from llie stem, and for forty feet in len^^lli, and eiijlit I'eet
in depili iimidsliips ; the inside liad been ceiled with oidc planks
six inches thick. Exactly anudslups a very heavy system of
kneed braces had l)een placed. .Vn entirely new deck had liccii
laid in pi u'e of so much of the old deck as was necessarily
removed to hoist out the old sixteen f(.'it hollers. Tlie sliip
had been docked, canlUed, luid [tainted.' Tlie house for the

' III aiiolluT act'oiiiit of the WDik ddiic to llie sliip, ('s|)ocii»lly as ri'j^arils
iis siicii^itlii'niin;, Captain Dc I^oivj; aild.-: " A steam-winch lias lieoii placed
on deck i'orwani of ilie siiioki-stack, capahlL' of lifting- the screw, niisliip-
piiit; tlie rudder, and warpiic.;- tlie ship ahead, 'the how has heea heavily
slreiii^thciied with oaken hrcast-hooks and tiausverse heaiiis, and has heeii
tilled in solid and eaiilkeij helow the herih deck for a distance of ten feet
from the stem. Outside we have, of coiir-e, the orii^inal ilonhliir^ of three
and a half iiicli American elm extendinij; fore and aft, and down to the
llijo"' heads, a distance of four feet nine inches from the keel. In the
spaces occupied hy the eniiiiu's hollers, and coal hunkers, for a distance of
forty feet in lcn;:th, and extendini; fi'im tho spar-deck shelf to the l)ilj;e
strakes on eitlier side, the old ceilin<;and wooden trusses have heen removed,
anil six inch jihinks of ()re'j;on ])ine in siiiiile lengths, with proper shifts,
have heen siilistitnleil. .Jnst forward of the hollers there is a series of heains
and l)races to guard against dangers from se\'ere nips, while the; shape of the
hull with its irreat dead-rise will si'rvc to aid the ship in risinir to itressiire.

'I'

The thickness of tlie vessel amidships is ninetecr. and a half inches
frames are on an average twelve inches ajiart from centre to centre.'

Tlr

a-ift i-l^gfci J

PKKI'AUAriONS FOR TIfE KXPEIU'IIOX.

c.l

crow to live in in wiiitt'i- liad Ijccii Imilt, fitted in pliicc, iuiil
taken apart and pil(?d np. A portahlo obscM'vatory liad been
made, ami winter jxirdies lor the cabin doors. New sails
tlin.ntxliont I.'ad been cut and tilted, as well as an entire onllit
of runnin;^ ri<^L;in<j;. Coal bniiicers iiad been enlarged and new
on(!H added, maUini;' lier bimUer caijacity one luindred and
tliirtv-two tons instead of eighty-nine tons as formerly, 'I'lie.
new boilers were in placi; and connected. 'I'iie machinery had
been well overhauled : new l)unii)s added ; four new propeller
blades cast, giving ns at starting six blades, or tin; equivalent
of three propellers; and an entire outfit of engimn.'rs' tools and
stores placed on board. Chronometers, sextants, conipass(>s, and
charts were ^iven : Keminixtou rilles, revolvers, and ammunition
wi-re added ; all the I'ope, canvas, ami boatswain's stores were
freely furnished ; and, linally, all the carpenters" tools and
outfit were thrown in. I'^verytliing that the nsivy yard had
on hand was placed at our dis|)osal, and the only things that
I added to what had been already sni)plicd were a new galley,
navy pattern, bunks in the foi'ccastle for the crew, and cover-
ing the insidti of the forecastle and ward-room with felt. . . .

" Finally, however, all wurk came to an end, and the ship
was turned over to nu\ I am perfectly satisfied with her.
She is everything I want for the ex[)edition, but a little small
for all I want to carry in her. We must remember, however,
we are making her do the work of an expedition that has
heretofore generally required two ships. We have every ap-
pliance for all kinds of scientific experiments. Our outfit is
simply perfect, whether for ice navigatiun, asti'onomical work,
magnetic work, gravity experiments, or collections of Natural
History. We have a good crew, good food, and a good ship,
and I think we have the right kind of stulf to dare all that
man can do."

The preparation of the Jeannette was under the su-
pervision of Lieutenant Chipp and Master Danenliower.
Captain De Long left San Francisco for Washington
early in February, as we have seen, and did not return

During that time he was ac-

;♦

until the end of May.

r,2

THE VOVACK OF THE JEAWETTE.

Bi«''l

■■h(

^ii

\'v A\ cMKployed in the coiiiitlcss details of his work,
'le was iti constant ('onunuiii(;ation with his otticers at
Srn Francisco, with liie Department at Washington,
and with Mr. liennett in Kur()[)e. lie lollowed every
slep ol' the work on the shi[), nsing the greatest tact in
removing the ol)stacles, some ot" them very serious,
which trcjiientiy arose ; he made the ari'angements for
the ship's stores and their transportation ; he arranu;ed
J'or the choice of olUcers and other mend)ers of tlie ex-
[)edition, and gave close attention to the selection of
instruuicnts for use in the scientific observations, and
answered good-naturedly and promptly the numberless
a[)plications an.d incpiiries which were made.

The choice of his companions was a matter of the
greatest moment, and he was fortunate in havinu,' his
wishes deferred to by the Governmenr, and by Mr.
Bennett, ^^•ho absolutely refused to make any ajipoint-
ment for frien(lshi|)'s sake, and su]iported Captain De
Long in his determination to confine' the nart^■ to those
who were qualilied for the arduous work of the enter-
j)rise. We have already spoken of Lieutenant Chipp
and Master Danenhower. The friendship which sprang
up between Cajitain De Long and Lieutenant Chipp
during the boat eAfU'dition of LSTo was never intei--
rupted ; and the very earliest lio]) »s which Captain De
Long had of tlie .leannette expedition "«vere shared with
his old (ipinrade. whoAvas then stationed in tlie Ashucdot
at Full Chan, China, from which ])Iace he wrote June
'1\. IS77 : '• Many thanks for your assurance that if the
expedition goes 1 shall go with it, and I will keep my-
self ])rei)ared at all times to join you upon tlie shortest
notice. 1 regret that we hav<^ bctMi disap])ointed in
gettmgaway this summer, but 1 sinccrcdy tiaistwe shall
bt' mt)re fortunate in 1878." He madi' his wav to San

riiKPARATIONS FOR TlIK KXrKDl'IK )N.

g;]

Francisco, as soon as he Avas (lotaclied from the squad-
ron hi the spring- of 1870, and Avas conUally welcomed
by Captain De Long, who wrote liim from Washington,
Aprd'JL 1879: —

•• 1 luive not bet-u iibln to writo yoii sooner to say bow gbul
1 iiiu to know tbiit you iivn safely in 8an Francisco ready to
join n\?. inonr Arctic work. You have, of cour'^e, learned from
Danenliower tlie story of tbo expedition as fir as it lias got,
and you cannot lun''n mor. ■,<[ wbat T propose to do tiian oy

J. M. AMBLER, M. D.

reading -ny instructions to Danenliower, and my letters to bim
since his arrival. Ot course, as soon as ibe orders reacb you,
you will be tlie senior ollicer present at tlie sbip, iind tlie bead
of all operations untU mya.ival, wbirli will be about May
l.nli. In order lo kee|) things as simple and regular as possi-
lil(>. I would suggest and request tbat you leave in Danen-
bower's hands the coinpU'tion of whatever work be h is begun ;
and advise and direct bim as to the best way to successfully
carry out our plans. Melville goes out with all the iatc.-,t; tb;-
tmls from the eiigiiieer-in-ehi..>f, and you aii<l be will easily
work tix'ether. \\'e are s(i erowdetl with work that I cannot
linl time to go into details a second ibne, and si, \ ask tbat we

■Jj,

I' ''

(' I

h: -

(11

THE V()va(;k of the jkaxnette.

iill couI'l'T ami work toi^etlior, oompitriuf^ noU's, ono with the
otlicr. We arc :il! workiii!^ for a coiuiiioii l^o xl, the success of
the (•x|ic<litioii, and \vc must no! stiiud ou a little cei'euu)ny."

I'asstMJ Assistant Kiiuiucer George W. Melville was
the (^hief engineer. He had l)een a eouuMde ot" Ca})-
tnin De Tiong-'s on the Lancaster, and was his iirst
choice for the position which he filled. So highly was
he regarded in the navy, that the Department was veiy
reluctant to attach him to the Jeannette, from a wnse
of the extreme ditUculty of sujjpl^ing his place during

!•'

III

i fi

GEORGE W. ME.LVILLE, CHIEF ENGI^ tR U. S N.

his absence. Tiic snrgeon was Passed Assistant Sur-
^('on Janiif- M. Aiiibkn". This post was one of great
i'.n])ortanct . and tlw duty oi" filling it suitably caused
Captain ])e Long gn-uf concern, lie was unwearied
in liis efforts to secure an ollicer win* should com-
bine the necessary (jualihcatio<*». and at one time was
strongly moved to invite two surgeons. Something of
his concern, and something also </ hi.s ii[)preciation, of
Dr. And)ler's high (jualitic^ inny I*- nn-en from a letter
Mliich he addressed to an applinnit i<>r the puNiUkJU ill
explanation of hia coursi; of actioaj-*-

PREPArvATIOXS FOR THE EXPEDITION.

" I owe iiml tender you an apology for my lon^- silence, es-
pecially since you have written me your letter ol' March 24tli.
As you will be aware probably on the leetMpt of this letter,
Passed Assistant Surgeon Ambler has been ordered to duty in
the Jeannette.

"• 1 beg to assure you that this is intcnd'^d to be no reth'ction
upon you, or disregar<l of your earnest di\sirt' and upplii'ation
to form on<» of the Arctic Expedition. Tim limited space for
ollicers' aceonunodatiou on board the vessel has convinced me
that it may not be possible to carry more than one medical
oHieer. In tliis ease it becomes imperatively necessary that
the one medical oliiccr so selected slujuld combine a thorough
knowledge of his profession (which you undoubtedly have)
with a considerable experience of ships and sailors (which
your short time iu the service makes it no discredit to say you
have not).

" Consultation with eminent medical olliccrs in the naw
has impressed me with the conviction that the combination
above mentioned can be found bcsl in the list of passed assis-
tant surgeons, and I have caused the position to be tendered,
through th(> Bur(>au of Medicine and Surgcrj', to Dr. Ambler,
who has signified his acceptance.

•"You will, I hope, undei'stand and appreciate my motive.
I am ])laced in a position of peculiarly grave responsibility.
U'ith all the respert wliieli I hav(( for you ])rofess'onally, and
the regard which I feel for you person;illy. I hesitated to invite
you to become the only medical (jUiccr of the expedition,
simply because your experience of ships and sailors is not as
gieat as seems requisite iu an undertaking of this kiml.

" If. however, I find that ther(> will Ix; rooui for a second
medical oliiccr, that it will be wise to ha\e one, ami that \ou
are still willing to g';, be assui'cd 1 will gladly tender you the
place. I cannot foiget and will not lorget that you were the
lirst surgeon to volunteer for the Arctic Expedition (and, until
the present writing, the only surgeon to volunteer), tmd that
yi'U have showed a zeal and persistence under trying eircum-
fitances of wal'hing and wailing too valuablo to be liglitl) dis-
regarded."

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNE ITE

I'.ftT

iiU\

\W.h^:

it'

^1 -

m i

The ice-pilot was Williiun Dunbar, of New London,
Connecticut, who had been master of whnleships in
and north of Behring Strait. The meteorologist was
Jerome J. Collins, from the stall" ot" the "• New York
Herald," a gentleman who at once commended himself
to Captain De Long by his intelligent zeal, and his de-
termination both to secure all proper equipment and
to qualify himself for his special duties. In a letter

JEROME J. COLLINS

written March 25, 1879, to Mr. Bennett, Captain De
Long gave hearty testimony to the worth of his asso-
ciate : —

" I !im very niucli pleased with liim. lie has a large fiiiul
of general information, juid will make a name for himseU" in
the Arctic, I am sure, lie has seemingly mastered photog-
raphy ah'eady. I ])ropose now t(j have him go to Washington,
and I shall ask Professor Baird to give him the same faeilities
at tlie Siiiitlisoniaii as were tendered to the medical othcer
Avhen he should he selected. I shall make the same reipiest
of .iVilmiial John llodgers at the Observatory, and of Captain

PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION.

uul
in

Patterson at the ( 'oasL Siirvoy ( )tH('e, and by those hope to
secure for Mr. Collins all the benefit oi' ifovernuient insti-
tutlons."

From that time forward Captain Do Lon<^ and Mr.
Collins worked to^ctlu'r indol"ati(;!\l)ly to secure the
scientific objects oi" the expedition.

The naturalist was Mr. liaymond L. Newcondj, of
Salem, Mass. In the case of these last named mem-
bers of the expedition a slight technical difhculty arose,
as will be seen by the following letter from the Secre-
tary of the Niivy to Captain De Long, dated May Iju,
187'J : —

"Your letter of the iMtli inst , requesting jjermission to ap-
point a meteorologist, naturalist, and ire-pilot, co accompany
you on tlie pro|>ose(l Arctic Exijedition, is received. In reply
you are informed tliat I do not think I have any authority to
make these ai)p()intments, as they are civil and in no sense
naval. The law gives me power to detail officers anil eidist
seamen. Ihey are neither. If yna choose to take them with
you, all that I can do will be to give m.y consent, which I will
do at any time. If they were mustered as seamen periiaps
the object would be accomplished. It would, at all events,
subject them to discipline." (See Appendix B.)

This course was followed, and they signed the papers
and appeared on the roll as seamen, but vhe relation
in which the meteorologist and naturalist stood to the
officers is clearly set forth in Captain De Long's letter
of explanation to Professor Baird of the Smithsonian
Institution, in which he says : —

•' The Secretary re[)lied (to my application) that he had no
authority to appoint these gei\tlenien under an Act of Con-
gress, and suggested that, in order to bring them under naval
regulations, I should ship them ns seamen. This I have pro-
posed to ^Ir. Ncwcomb purely as a nuitter of form, and he
lutikes no objection. Vou will understand that in no other

THE VOYACE OF THE .lEANNETTE.

;'(

s(v.ise will he bo considered a seaman, but will be known and
publislu'd us the ' Matuiitlist of the Aietic Expedition,' will
reside and mess with the olHcers of the ship, and be one of my
olhcial family."

Tlio crow was selected with great care, part in tlie
East and part from the Pacilic Coast.

"• If I can get Huital)le men in San Francisco," Captain De
JjOiig writes to Lieutenant Chipp, to whom he had specially
committed this matter, '• 1 don't want tn go to tlie expense of
sending men from the East where 1 can get them in swarms.
Reipuroments for crew : Single men ; jH-rfcct healtli ; consid-
erable strength ; perfect temperance ; cheerfulness ; ability to
read and writt; l^nglish : ])rime seanuni of course. A musician,
if possible. Norwegians, Swedes, and Danes preferred. Avoid
English, Scotch, and Irish Refuse point blank French, Ital-
ians, and Spaniards. The steward must be A 1. and not nec-
essarily a seaman. The cook must be a good cook, since he
cooks for ad hands. Look among recruits in receiving ship
to begin with Pay to be navy pay. Absohite and unhesitat-
ing obediei- e to t-very order, no matter what it may be. . . .
Excuse mv scratchy and jerky way of putting things, but I am
wotidly hurried," (See Appendix C.)

Lieutenant (Jliipp found it no easy matter to secure
men l)ut Captain De Long received abundant ap])lica-
tioi..? from nil (juarters from persons who wisiied to
join the expedition in some other capacity than that
of connnon seatnen. One determined young man, or
rather boy, besieged hiui with letters, professing his
readiness to do anything and everything if he might
only be taken, and resting liis special claims upon an
ability to edit a news|>aper and get up a variety show
for the cntertainnuiit of the company during the long
nights of an Arctic winter. Captain De Long's reply
to his a])plication was in substance that which he made
to eveiv one: "Your various letters have hcvn re-

iniKl'AUATIONS FOR THE EXrEDITION.

(3'J

ceivod. In reply 1 would state that I have room in
the Jeannette tor nohody but her officers and crew.
Tiiese must he seamen or people with some claim to
seientilic usefulness, and from your letters I fail to
learn that you may ho classed with either party."

Mr. Bennett and Captain De Long- received fre(iuent
advice and warnings with regard to the expedition.

UJ^zy$4^**'u^ ^^c> ^j.

£.CC/C^-9t^

One theorist wrote solenuily that the ex[)lorers were
on the ver<^e of a ffreat discoverv before which the dis-
covery of America by Columbus would pale, for they
were to enter a region, about the S7th degree of lati-
tude, where a tropical heat would meet them issuing
from the hollow centre of the earth. Another was
convinced of the feasibility of ^opening trans-oceanic
comm<uiication for comniercial purposes between the
Pacific Coast nud Engliind r'm Behring Strait, the Arc-
tic Ocean, Melville. liMucaster, and Davis Straits, ami

THE VOYAGE OF THE .TEAXNETI'E.

I !

i| I

Ballin's Bay. lie thought the route wouhl bo an ox-
ct'llc'ut one lor a hirge freight business diu-ing the
sunnner, and only required to be well surveyed and
supplied with buoys and light-liouses. A well-wisher of
the I'xpedition disclosed the valuable properties of cat-
tails, which, when packed as a wadding between two
cloths, made the most perfect non-conductor of heat
possible.

A light-hearted friend of Captain De Long, and
former messmate, had only one request to make, that
the captain would carry a Uute, very precious to the
owner, as far as ho should go. It Avas a llute, as the
owner wrote, which, in the hands of Captain Do Long,
had once given exquisite gratification. " 1 am sure,"
he adds, " it only re(|uires another course under you to
become one of the most remarkal)lc of instruments. If
you play it anywhere near Omialaska's shore, I am sure
the wolves will all come down to howl, and thereby
serve a good pur[)()se if it should happen to be thick
weather. Then, in the periods when the spirits of your
men need rousing, what would be more appropriate
than for their connnander to appear at the ntast iind
discourse those selections from ' Pinafore ' ui)on the in-
strument of which he is a master?" Still another sent
the captain a likeness of Captain Hall and a bit of the
Polaris' Hag to be carried to the North Pole.

The Jeannetto was put in commission June 28, 1879,
when the silk Hag which his wife had made for Ca|)tain
De Long was used. This ilag was to be used in taking-
possession of any new found land in the name of the
United States, and to be uufurlcMl when the highest
latitude was reached. The ordei's for the expedition
were given by the Secretary of the Navy in a letter
dated Washington. June 18, 187'J, which, after reciting

PKEPARATIOXS FOR THE KXPEDITION.

the terms of tlie two Acts of March 18, 1878, .ind Fob-
riuiry 27, 1879, proceeds: —

" Under tlu; authority coufcrrod by tliese Acts of Congress,
tlio Jeiuuietto has been iicccpted, littod out, oHicm-od, and
nuiiniod under tlie orders of tliis Dciiartnicnt, and you liavo
been ordered to the couiniand of the voyage of exploration.

'• As soon as tlie Jeannette, urider your command, is in all
respects ready for sea, you will proceed with her to Behring
Strait, to execute the important and liazardous service in-
trusted to you. In the execution of this service, tlie Depart-
ment must leave the details to your experience, discretion, and
judgment. It has full coniidence in your ability in all matters
connected with the safety and discipline of the ship, the health
and comfort of tl e officers and crew, and the faithful prosecu-
tion of the object of the voyage.

" On reaching IJehring Strait, you will make diligent in-
quiry at such points where you deem it likely that infornuition
can be obtained concerning the fate of Professor Nordenskjiild,
as the Department has been unable to have positive confirma-
tion of the reports of his safety. If you have good and suffi-
cient reasons for believing that he is safe, you will proceed on
your voyage toward the North Pole. If otherwise, you will
pursue such course as, in your judgment, is necessary for his
aid and relief.

'• You will, as opportunity offers, advise the Department of
your whereabouts, and of such matters of interest connected
Avith the voyage as you may desire to communicate. Wishing
you a prosperous voyage, and commending you, the officers
and cr(!w, and the object of your expedition, to the protecting
care of Almighty fJod,

" I am very respectfully yours,

"K.W.Thompson,

" Secretary of the JVavij.''''

It was a severe disappointmont to Captain De Long
that the fonnder of the expedition was not to be in .San
Francisco to bid him God-speed. In the connection

II' '

i!s

•«!

THE VOYAGE OF llli; .TE ANNETTE.

bt'twoon tlio two men there had l)een no jar or niisnn-
(K'l'stanfhni;'. On the one hand there had heen the nt-
most HIjeraUty and confidence ; on the other, the closest
fideHty. As the thne drew near tor the exi)editiou to
start, and Captain De Loni^ tried in vain to secnre I'rom
CJovernmcnt a c(Mivoy to liehrinn- Strait, he bnrst ont
in one of his despatches to Mr. IJennett's representative
in New York: '• Thank God, I have a man at my buck
to see me throuu'h when countries fail ! " Mr. Ben-

WILLIAM DUNBAR.

nett's final instructions, sent by Atlantic cable from
Europe and forwarded to Captain De Long, closed w'ith
these words : —

" Regivt I'xooedingly I cannot \n\ there to bid liim God-
speed, but liope to be on hand to congratulate him u})on kuc-
cessful return. Tell him I havt; greatest confidence in his
energy and pluck, and I thank hini sincerely for his fidelity to
me. Siiy. also, he m;iy push forward to north next spring with
perfect confidence, for if ice-bound, I shall spare neither money
nor influence to follow him up and send assistance next year,
so neither he nor his men will be in danger. I wish this to bo

f I

IMSKI'AIIATIOXS FOR TIIK KXPKDITION.

ill! Ainericiiii siic-cess. Tell liiin in case lio returns uoxt yo;ir
uii,Hni:(!o.ssl"iil. which I don't liclicvt! possilih-, I shall most ccr-
tainlv send anotlicr cxixMlition followinir vcar, uiiil oontinni!
dohigso nntil sni-ecssl'iil, l)nt had rather victory shonhl he liis
than another's. Shonid I)e Loni^ not return next your, or in
fact nev(;r, the widows of men behniging to expedition will ho
protoc'ted hy uui. Shonid like him to tell this to his men u[)on
their doparlui'o."

Ju the prepamtioii for tlio t'Xpoditioii Ciiptain Do
L(Mi<^' iiad (Irjiwn upon his own fxporionce, and had ap-
plJL'd a, kn()\vk'di>-e derived Irom hjiig and close study
ol' the details ol" previous Arctic voya<^es. His faiuil-
iarity with naval duty was supplemented by an at'([uaiu-
tance with all the nilnutitu ol" the expedition which he
couuuanded. He luul been generously supported by
Mr. IJennett, and lie had the autlioritv oL' the Govern-
nient behind him. His siu'vey ol" the .Ji!annette and
her eqiu])inent had left him satisfied with the result ot"
the year's work ; he had ronlidenco in his associates.
His onl}' regret was that Mv. Bennett could not wish
them (Jod-speed in person, and that Government had
failed to turnish him with a steamer to carry additional
siip[)lies to St. Michael's, for this failure would inevita-
bly delay his linal entrance into the Arctic Ocean.

Yet the completest preparation for the expedition
was in Captain De Long himself. The sketch ol" his
early career, and the glimpses of his character which
this chapter has alforded, will give the reader some in-
timation of the singular qualilications which Captain De
Long possessed for the work which he had undertaken.
For years his mind luul been turning to this point. His
native enthusiasm and spirit had urged him. and his
sense of a great work to be done had drawn him for-
ward. The experience which he had known when in

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THE VOYAGK OF TIIK JEANNKTTE.

comniiind of the Little Juniata had given him a prac-
tical knowledge of .«ome of the dilhculties attendant
upon Arctic exploration, and had assured him that he
Wiis not wanting in the qualities of an explorer. The
more he pondered upon the problem of the North Pole,
the greater became his desire to help in its solution,
and if possible to give that answer which alone would
satisfy the world. lie was keyed to the temper of his
great enterprise by no vainglorious purpose or rash
self-confidence. He never disguised from himself the
seriousness of the task he had essayed, nor imagined
that he was to win a liigh reputation by some happy
turn of fortune. He belonged to the men who have
cared for great things, not to bring themselves honor,
but because doing greiit things could alone satisfy their
natures, and he entered upon the work before him with
a single-minded earnestness, and a brave trust in God.

; ;

n "

CHAPTER 111.

FROM SAN FllAN-CISCO TO ST. LAWRENCE BAY.

8 July — -11 Antjust, 187;».

The Stiirt. — The Escort. — Tlic Company. — Oiinulaska Island. —
Till! Ahiska Commercial Coinpuiiy. — Letter to Secretary of the
Jsavy. — Generosity of the Company and its Agent. — St. Mi-
chael's. — No Tidings of Nordcnskjiild Tlie Ollicers of the Jean-

nette. — Arrival of the Scliooner Fanny A. Hyde. — The Character
of the Crew. — The Arctic Stores of Clothing and I'rovisions. —
The Interpreters. —Off for St. Lawrence Bay.— The Dogs.— St.
Lawrence Bay. — The Chief George and liis Story about a Ship.
— Lutke's Island. — The Last of Civilization.

[The story of the voyage of the Jctinnotte will be
told in the words of the commander. Besides the
ship's log he kept a full journal during the voyage,
an(l continued the record after the ship was abandoned.
It has been the task of the editor to reproduce the
journal with such omissions and corrections only as its
form, never intended for publication, seemed to de-
mand. This journal was to be Captain De Long's rec-
ord of the expedition, but after leaving San Francisco,
and before entering Behring Strait, he had opportu-
nities of sending letters home, and the narrative pre-
served in this chapter is drawn by turns from his jour-
nal and from these letters.]

[from tiir journal.]
Upon steaming out of the harbor of San Francisco
the jeannette was escorted by some half dozen yachts

1-f

) {

» i'

<»•

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXXETTK.

Itolonging to the San Francisco Yacht Club, Cominandor
C. II. Harrison leading them in his yacht Frolic ; by
the tug MoUen Grillitii, hired by J. C. Morison, our
shipping agent ; by the tug Governor Irwin, carrying
his P^xcellencv Governor Irwin, ot" tiie State of Cali-
lornia, who did us the honor to pay us a visit on board
just betxjre sailing, and a party of merchants; the tug
Habboni, with a large number of San Franciscans, and
several small steam-launches loaded down with people.
The wharves were crowded with enthusiastic friends;
Telegraph Hill was black with people who had climbed
up there to cheer us and wavo adieux ; and every ship
we passed dipped her colors to us, while shouts, steam-
whistles, and yachts' cannon shots kept the air filled
with noise. Upon passing Fort Point a salute of
twenty-one guns was fired in our honor, while the gar-
rison of the fort cheered us enthusiastically. Astern
of us might bo seen our consort, the schooner Fanny
A. IIy<le. laden with one hundred tons coal and such
provisions as wo could not convenientlv carrv. The
refusal of the Navy Department to send a man-of-war
with us as far as Alaska to start us as fai'orably as was
the Polaris, (.'aptain Hall, in ISTl, when the Congress
was sent to Disco, in Greenland, to help her along,
made the chartering of this sciiooner necessary at Mr.
Benni'tt's expense. 1 may here add that not a sign
of a naval ollicor was seen in the departing ovation.
The Alaska. Tuscarora, and Alert lay at the navy yard,
onlv twenty-six miles awav ; and thovi>>:ii the navv vard
tug Monterey lay at a wharf in San Francisco when
we started, having brought the commandant down that
morning, she made no move toward ])articipation. On
the contrarv, when fifteen minutes later she left her
wharf, she crossed our wake a mile astern without

FUOM SAX FltAXCISCO TO ST. LAWUKXCE 15AY.

even a blast of her steain-wlii.stle as a good-by, and
went off in the (hrection ot the navy yard.

Arriving at the Sea Bnoy we parted from our accom-
panying friends, they returning toward San Francisco,
cheering us, dipping colors, and blowing steam-whistles
until out of siu'ht and hearing. Headed to a course
W. N. W. (magnetic), with a light head wind, ship
steaming three knots. Arranged the sailor-men in two
watches of four hours each ; the engineer force in two
watches of six hours each ; while the duties of Match
oihcers were assigned to Mr. Dunbar (Ice-Pilot), John
Cole (Boatswain), and William Nindemann (Ice-Quarter-
master).

Jnhi {)th, We(hie.s(k(t/. — At 3.30 A. m. lost sight of
Point Rayes light, bearing N. E. by E. (magnetic). At
nine made fore and aft sail, and at eleven made all
squaresail, running her off till canvas drew to strong
N. W. wind, which raised choppy sea that broke aboard
over either rail. Ship loaded very deep, namely, 11 ft.
9 in. forward, 13 ft. 4 in. aft. Foggy, misty, and at
times rainy.

Jidf/ 13//^ Snmkit/. — At ten a. m. inspected the fhip
and crew, and found evervthing neat and tidy. Had
the Articles of War read and the ship's company mus-
tered. Then read divine service, and was much pleased
at observing that every ollicer and man. not absolutely
on watch, voluntarily attended. Clear and pleasant
weather ; smooth sea.

[to MKS. DK KONG.]

At Sea. lat. 38° 13; N., Ion-;. 132° (i2' W.,
450 Miles AVest of Sim Francisco,

Sniidai/, July 13, 1879.

Here we are so far on our way toward the Pole, and
it is the most natural tliiny; in the world that I should

! I

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f

'i ,

]

D! '

78 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

sit down to write yon. All the first night we had lit-
tle or no wind, and we poked along slowly, making I'onr
knots an hour. The next morning, however, it blew
a little from N. W., and freshening rapidly, I put the
ship under canvas and steam, and headed her oft' so
that our sail would draw. As the wind freshened the
sea got up, and as wo were so deeply loaded it broke
over us in all directions. For three days wo had a
very uncomfortable time. Seas were breaking over
her rail all the time, and the ship rolled and wallowed
like a pig. Mist and rain made it damp inside as well
as outside, and she was more uncomfortable than at
any time in our bad weather in the Pacific just outside
of the Straits of Magellan. Collins and Newcondj
promptly went mider with sea-sickness, and for three
days they were as miserable men as you ever saw.
Then the cook got sea-sick, and wo had to scratch
around for something to eat. The boy seemed to dis-
appear froiri everybody's gaze for three days, when the
doctor found him in the port chart-room, hugging the
lockers, and such a specimen. He was just a shadow
of his former self, his long pig-tail all in a confused
mass of hair flying to the wind, and looking hke a
corpse resurrected. We gave him some chloroform
which straightened him up, Jind then made him take
the lee wheel to keep him in the air, for I really feared
he might die. If you could have seen him clutch that
wheel frantically whenever she rolled or a sea came on
i)()ar(l, with his eyes starting out of his head, and his
tongue cleaving to the roof of his mouth, you would
understand the amount of anguish he was enduring.
Yesterday, however, when the weather moderated and
the sea went down everybody brightened up ; and as
to-day we are having heavenly weather, a bright sky,

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO ST. LAWREXCK I$AV.

light ciisterly airs, and sinootii soa, you would iniagiuo
wo never had dreamed of such a thing as had weather.

Now J suppose you will not ol)ject to a kind of de-
tailed description of the ship and the people in her.
The ship is, I think, all right ; she is slow now hecause
she h', so deep in the water, running along under steam
alone only Jour and lour and a half knots, and burning
about live tons of coal a day. But this has been when
a heavy swell kept her back. For the last twenty-four
hours she has had a light N. E. breeze, and we have
made a run of one hundred and thirty miles, or over
live knots an hour, and as we are growing lighter every
hour we burn coal, I am in hopes in a day or two of
y-ettinu; six knots an hour out of her without trouble.
Our cabin is very comfortable and very dry. During
the bad weather I had a little fire made in the stove
to try it and to dry clothes by, and I assure you it
■worked admirably, throwing out great quantities of
heat and burning but little coal. The forecastle has
been as dry as a bone and very comfortable, and the
men seem to appreciate it. The only uncomfortable
place has been the deck, and that has been wet all the
time. We have not had a chance to settle everything
into its place yet, but are getting gnulually towards it.
My room and the starboard chart-room are all to rights,
and look (juite cosy and cheerful.

Chipp is, as he always was and always will be, calm
and earnest. lie has always something to do, and is
always doing it in that quiet, steady, and sure manner
of his. He smiles rarely and says very little, but 1
know where he is and how reliable and true he is in
every respect. lie is putting everything in order
(|uietly and steadily, and he has everything reduced
already to a system. To-day, when I inspected the

lil

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNEITE.

ship slie was as neat as a pin, the men nicely dressed,
and everything h)oking more like a mun-of-war than it
ever had hei'ore.

Danenhower is the same as ever, does his work well,
and navigates correctly. Melville is as bright as a dol-
lar and as cheeri'ul as possible all the time. He sits on
my left at table, and helps me to carve and serve ont.
We broke a pump-rod two days ago. Some engineers
would have wanted to stop the ship a few days for this,
or perhaps turn back. Not he; he says, "All right;
wo will run without a pump -rod, hey brother, and
when we get in I will make you a new pump-rod or
fiftv of them." I believe he could make an engine out
of a few barrel hoops if he tried hard. He is one of
the strong points in this expedition. He and Dr. Am-
bler arc much alike in some respects. The doctor is
all 1 would have him, bright and cheerful under all cir-
cumstances. During our bad weather he was around
all ^!ie time, cheering up Collins and Newcomb, hold-
ing up the Chinese cook, when necessary, and facing
the music like a man. He and Melville have christened
Newcomb '• Ninkum," and occasionally I hear one of
them sing out on seeing an albatro.ss, " Here, Ninky,
quick, come and catch a goose."

Poor Collins was so sick that he could easily have
lost his mother and not have known it. His puns died
out for a few days, but he is gett ig back to them

agam.

Newcomb in his turn deserves mention. He will, I
think, come out all right ; he has grit and goes to work
like a little man. He was hardly able to stand before
he had his lines over the side fishing for albatross, and
no sooner had he caught a good one, measuring seven
feet across the wings, than he skinned it and got it

FKOM SAN FUANCISCO TO ST. LAWUEXt E BAY. 81

ready for mounting. lie knows all about his business,
every bit, and he takes all about Ninky and the goose
in good part, returning to his addressers quite as good
as they give. He has his little place in the port chart-
room all fixed up with his tools, and in as hap})y as
can be.

Mr. Dunbar is as grave and serious as ever. lie fre-
quently s})eaks about making •■ pahsages to the South
Seas," etc., and has quite a fund of general information
which will no doubt be useful to draw from hereafter.

Cole and Sweetman are just the same as they were
coming around. Cole, as usual, says nothing, but stands
his watch looking all around the horizon as if for a
wind. Sweetman looks after the provisions as before,
and he and Danenhower have solenni consultations
about weights and measures. Our Chinese steward
bothers them both dreadfully, for he gets things no
matter how carefully they are locked up and put away.
He seems to feel that he has but one duty, and that is
to get all the food he can and put it on the table. For
iristance, yesterday he gave us some of that nice cheese
which I purchased as a great delicacy during the win-
ter. It was locked up very carefully, but the steward
got at it, cut a good large piece out, and placed it on
the table, with the pie at dinner. He cannot under-
stand why we should be economical with a ship full
of provisions, and, Chinaman-like, will not understand
what he does not want to.

The watches are stootl by Mr. Dunbar, Cole, and
Nindemann. This last is as hard-working as a horse.
The second day out a hatchway fell on his little finger
and nearly cut it off, but he did not seem to mind it.
The doctor sewed it up, and he went ahead as if noth-
ing had happened.

i
i

TIIK VOYACK OF THE JEANNKTTi:.

The cook is (jiiito a isuccoss sinco ho got ovor his sea-
sickiu'ss, and he cooks everything very well except
colVee, iind th;it we shall have to teach him. With
coll'ee his idea is (juantity and not (quality, and what he
liu'ks in the l)erry he makes up with water.

The men are lirst-class, happy and cheertul ; they
hiive their musical instruuu'nts every night and play
and sing. There are so many good voices that I am
thinking of getting up a choir with Collins at the or-
gan. To-day at church evi'ry ollicer and man was
present, except the men in the engine-room on watch.
We made (|uite a congregation.

Having thus described everybody else, I come to
your husband, who hardly needs description. I realize
that I am engaged in a great undertaking from which
neither of us would have me retreat; that being in it 1
nuist make a good showing, and study and plan every-
thing to that end. With Clod's help we shall certainly
do something, however small. I realize how much de-
pends on me, and how much everybody Avill look up to
me for guidance ; and I know that instead of repining
I nuist buckle to my work with a will.

[ri!<»M Tin; .lOlKXAI..]

July 2d(h, Si(mh(tf. — At 10 a. m. inspected the ship,
and held divine service. Informed the crew of Mr.
IJeunett's intention to follow us with a ship next year,
and that he would provide for all widows if anything
should happen to any of us. This seemed to have a
good effect upon the spirits of all hands.

[to Mlt:^. 1>E LONG.]

Juli/ 2dth. — We are now three hundred miles from
Ounalaska. We have had an almost steady head wind

FUO.M SAN FUANCISCO TO ST. LAWHIATK MAY,

an«l sea ever siiioo tho loth, and have eoiiio aloiijr
slowly in conscMiuence. What lew <lavs \\v havo had
a lair wind it han hei'u so lii-ht as to be of very little
use, hardly strong enoiiuh to make a draft for our fur-
naces. Fog and rain we have had nearly every day.

AiicTu; .STK.\Mi;ii .Ik. annktik, Oinai.aska Island,

Suiiiliii/, Auipist .1, 1H71I.

Here wo are at last, having reached this place yes-
tenlay afternoon, after knockin<r around for two davs
in thick fogs among a hundred or more islands, very
incorrectly laid down on the eharts (some of them not
at all), and getting mixed up generally. I have seen
some crooked navigation, hut our experience in getting
through the i)asses into IJehi-iiii:; Sea y-oes far beyond
anytliing for dilliculties. Oiu' great troubles were thick
fogs and terrible tides. We were never able to see
more than three miles in any one direction, and then
only for a few minutes at a time. Getting observations
was out of the question, for when we could happily see
the sun we could not see the horizon ; so we had to
grope our way along like blind men. However, we
got here all right, and here we arc. until Wednesday
morning, the 6th instant, when we sail for St. Michaer.s
direct, omitting St. Paul's Island.

We found here the Alaska Company's steamer St.
Paul — Avhich sails for San Francisco direct on the
5th instant, and will carry our mail and packages, —
the revenue cutter Rush, and the Alaska Company's
schooner the St. George. The St. Paul has just come
from St. Michael's and St. Paul's, and has one hundred
thousand seal skins on board, valued at one million
dollars. She has collected all the seal skins from the
islands, and is on her way back to San Francisco. It is
a splendid chance for us to send our letters, and a

* 1

niK v()YA(;k ov iiii: .ikawkitk.

(|iii('k one, lor she will run down in aWout cK'Vcn days,
and you ought to have my letters in live days al'ter-
wards.

My only reason lor stoppin*? at St. Paul's Island was
to <fet some seal skins and leave a mail lor the Alaska
Fur Conipany. Ihit 1 find I can get all the I'nrs 1 want
here, and the St. Paul has hrought down all the agents
ol the (.'ompiiny. and so 1 deliver the mail here. I am

OUNALASKA.

very glad it is so, because now I can go direct to St.
Miehael's, which place I hope to reach on the 13th, and
leav(> I til the IGth.

Evt'iybody describes the season as an exceptionally
open one. The revenue cutter, which has just come
south, was as far north as Kast Cape, and saw no ice
anywhere. She did not stop at East Cape or anywhere
on the Siberian side, her highest point of call being St.
.Michael's. At that place everybody was looking anx-
iously for us, our dogs, sleds, and fur clothing being
uU ready. The schooner had not yet arrived.

VIU)M SAN FUAN('IS( () K) ST. LAW UI:N( K |!AV. 85

Notliint^ has hciMi Iicai-d of Xonlt'uskjrdd. TIu' cap-
tain of tlio rt'Vi'iHie stoaiiuT supposed \\v had ^foiic south
lon;^ a^ro, oy ho would have stopped hi St. Lawrcnci'
IJay to ask. No roininunioation had yet hoon had with
St. Lawivnco Hav from St. 'ivichael's. ami no tidin<rH
had como of course. Il i- .no holiof that hy tho tinio
1 <(ot to St. jMichaol's soniothint^ will iiavo transpirod.

Aufjufif \tli. — This is a very i)rotty littlo jjlaco in
some respects. It has a beautiful land-locked harbor,
surrounded l)y hills eovered with beautiful j^rass. and
looking; as tureen as Brick Church.' It is (piite warm
and j)leasant. liut the nK)s((uitoes I For the last svo
nij^hts 1 have hardly had an hour's rest. Last ni^lit I
went to hod at ^^en ,)'elock. and I assure you I lay awak<-
initil half past four this nuirninj^ killiuii; nH)s(|uitoe> Uy
the (h)/,eu. I am one mass of bites from head to foot.
1 put up my bed-curtains to keep them out. but they
would get in, and seemed to make the curtains an ex-
cuse lor not getting out. My l)ulkhead and ceiling is
one mass of smashed bodies. I went for them with my
slip|)ers right and left, and linally at half past four I
droppeil olV to sleep from sheer fatigut' and exhaustion.
1 was up again at seven, for we breakfast at half after
seven.

There i • not a white woman here, nothing but nuMi
and natives. There is a church here, a (Jreek church,
and yesterday the priest was busy all day nuirrying
cou])les. The steauu'r St. Paul brought down a lot of
nu'u from St. Paul's Island and St. George's Island who
were candidates for matrimony. They reached liere
Thursday last; made their selections on Friday and
Saturday ; were married yesterday, and too!- a stroll to
the hill-tops in the afternoon. Some oi" the men liud

* A villaLte near Xew York.

ol" indecision

THE VOYAGE OF ' HE JEANXETTE.

notliing to suit tlieni and are hanging around in a state

ii!

III

■ I
1

1 [

), (

n
H

,■ !!

; f

? ' i

rr •

[to HON. Ii. W. THOMPSON, SECRETARY OK THE \AVV.]

AUCTIC StEAMEK JeANNETTE, Ol'NALASKA IsLAND,
August 1, IS 79.

The revenue cutter Rush, during her visit to St.
Michael's and her cruise to the northward, passed
tlu'ough Hehring Strait, some twenty miles to the
northward and eastward of East Cape in Siberia, with-
out having encountered any ice whatsoever. Suppos-
ing that Professor Nordenskjuld had already passed
south, no communication was had by the Rush witli St.
Lawrence Bay. No comniimication from St. Lawrence
Bay had been received at St. Miduiel's at the date of
the sailing of the Rush on the 2od July, and conse-
fiuently there was no knowledge of the safety or move-
ments of Professor Nordenskjiild's party. It was my
intention originally, as communicated to. you in my let-
ter of July 8th. to stop at St. Paul's Island, after leav-
ing this place ; but as the fur clothing which I was to
have received at that place can be furnished here, I
have concluded to proceed directly to St. Michael's in
Alaska, leaving here on Wednesday morning, the 5th
August. From all the intelligence received from the
northward it ap])ears that the last winter has been an
exceptionally mild one, and that no obstruction to nav-
igation in the shape of ice has been encountered. 1
can but deplore that the necessity of loading the ship
so deeply at San Francisco has made our progress thus
far so slow, owing also to head winds and swell, as to
make it doubtful whether we shall be able or not to
profit by the open water in the Arctic Sea in our efforts

m ^

FROM SAN FllANCISCO TO ST. LAWIIENCK I'.AY. 87

to gain a high hititude this season. If, npon our arrival
at St. Michael's, nothing has heen heard of the party
under the command of Professor Nordenskjold, I shall
proceed to St. Lawrence Bay in Siberia, to obtain tid-
ings of them.

We have been made the recipients of the most un-
bounded courtesy and assistance of the Alaska Com-
mercial Company, through its agent at this place. Tiie
coal belonging to the Navy Department, and of which
tliere was originally, 1 believe, some seven or eight hun-
dred tons, has become reduced by the requisitions of
the revenue cutter to about eighty tons, which, owing
to exposure and spontaneous combustion, has become
of indirt'erent value. The commanding olhcer of the
Rush, having expressed to me his desire to have the
remaining quantity reserved for his use in proceeding
to San Francisco in the coming fall, I have accepted
the offer of the Alaska Commercial Company to furnish
one hundred and fifty tons bituminous coal for the use
of the expedition. This matter will form the subject
of a private arrangement between Mr. James Gordon
Bennett and the Alaska Commercial Company, and has
no relation to our ofhcial transactions. We have also
been furnished with fur garments, and twelve thousand
pounds of dried lish for dog food, both of which have
been sent here by the Alaska Conuuercial Company for
our use, from Kodiak. The l)alance of our clothing,
forty dogs, more dog food, sledges, and dog drivers will
be furnished at St. Michael's.

I woidd respectfully call your attention to the fact
that the charts of this region are verv meaii-re. The
most reliable is one published by the Imperial Russian
Ilydrographic Olhce in 184D. which chart was furnished
nie in San Francisco. The prevalence of fogs, and the

1 i

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

rapidity and uncertainty of prevailing tides, make an
approach to any ol" the passes between the Aleutian
Islands hazardous in the extreme.

[I'HO.M TlIK .MUKNAI..]

AiKjust tifh, luesdat/. — The St. Paul sailed for San
'Francisco at 3.30 a. m., carrying our letters and my
packages to General Miller. 1 received from the Alaska
Connnercial Company a long list of articles for which
Mr. Greenbaum declines to receivi; payment. I desired
particularly to pay for the labor of coaling ship, but ho
replied that his orders from General Miller were to
furnish everything we needed without charge, and he
cannot take any money even in return for what he ex-
pends from the company's funds.

[to MUS. DK LOX<i.]

Nothing could exceed the courtesy of the company's
agent, Mr. Greenbaum, during the whole of our stay.
The entire storehouse was })laced at our disposal. A
lot of fur clothiui:; had l)een sent over from Kodiak for
our use, — reindeer coats and gloves. We also received
eighteen thousand dried '"'sh for dog food, and twenty-
five pup seal skins for blankets and floor covers or car-
pets. The agent gave me for my own use a beautiful
coat made of pup seal skins ; besides, he gave me a
large gown lined with birds' feathers as a morning
gown, so you see my luck of having other people give
me things has not chano-ed.

When we left on the morning of the 6th everybody
was up to see us off ; and besides dipping of colors, we
had a salute from three small guns in front of the com-
pany's office. The priest, no dou1)t, was among die
party, but we cannot say whether the brides and grooms

ni i

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO ST. LAWHEXCE BAY.

were there or not. Everybody wished us all sorts of
good hick as we steamed out. The first day, of course,
we had a head wind, though a fan* wind had been blow-
ing for the three days that we were in port. The sec-
ond day, however, we had a nice little breeze, which
freshened so much that — will yon believe it? — we
made one hundred and seventv-three miles in the first
twenty-four hours, and one hundred and thirty-six in
the next. Then the wind failed us and came out
ahead, and this day we are down to oiu' old speed of
four knots.

St. ^[iciiael's, Anrjnst 12, 1879.

We reached here this morning at ten o'clock. The
navigation was not so troublesome as at Ounalaska,

ST. MICHAEL'S

because we had no fog ; but the general uncertainty,
owing to poor charts and shoal water, made me sulli-
ciently thankful when our anchor was let go oil" this
collection of native huts and one storehouse.

Our schooner [the consort with coal] has not yet
arrived, and there is no news of Nordeuskjiild. The
Alaska Company's agent ])i'omptly came on boiiid to
welcome us and receive his letters. He had almost
given up the idea of seeing us this year. No commu-

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

nication has been had with St. Lawrence Bay this sea-
.son, and he knew no more than we conkl tell iiim.

1 confess I am seriously embarrassed. I fully lioped
to dud our schooner here, and to learn some tidings of
the Swede. I am disappointed in both. I have not
coal enough in the ship to warrant me in going Jiway
without waiting for the schooner, and it follows that I
must await her arrival. Then we must go to St. Ljiw-
rence Bay for one more effort to learn something of
Nordenskjiild, and, should we learn nothing of him,
poke tdoug the northern coast of Siberia imtil we are
frozen in for the winter. Meanwhile our fine season is
slipping away, when we might reiich Kellet Liind and
push on to the nortiiward. There are only ten tons of
coal here at the station, and that is wanted this winter.
T had an idea of pushing over to St. Lawrence Bay to
ask about Nordenskjtild, and then coming back to meet
the schooner ; but this would require us to make double
the distance and burn double the coal, and that will not
do. Then 1 thouf>;ht of j^oing across and leavintj' orders
for the schooner to follow us; but it might take her so
long to get across that I gave that up. So I am re-
signed to wait patiently for the Fanny A. Hyde to
arri ve.

1 have got all the natives at work making our cloth-
ing, and it is somewhat of a comfort that in one respect
our time is not being wasted. Our dogs and sleds and
harness are all ready. These dogs are line animals,
young and active, and they took to me very kindly
to-day when I visited them on shore.

This is a miserable place. There are exactly four
white men here, and not one white woman. Of the
four white men, one is a servant, one Mr. Newman, tin?
agent, one his brother, and the fourth is a private in

FROM SAN FUANCISCO TO ST. LAWRENCE RAY. 91

the Army Signal Corps, named Nelson, stationed here
for the five years of his enlistment to make and record
meteorological observations. Desolate and cheerless as
tlie place is, we may yet look back upon it as a kind of
earthly paradise.

Our little family of thirty-two having been together
now for some time, I can judge of the harmony exist-
ing among them. In the cabin everything goes on
smoothly and harmoniously. Chipp is as unchangea-
ble and imperturbable as ever ; he is occupied now in
building a cook-iiouse on deck in the place where the
old one stood, but not quite so large. We have con-
sidered this wise, because we have already had trouble
with the draft to the galley ; for it positively refused to
burn on the port tack, and besides 1 want to have the
galley where 1 can look at its cleanliness every hour of
the day. Our Chinese servants — but 1 will tell you
about them further on.

Danenhow^er is the same, and will probably always
remain so. He is a hard worl<er, always writing the log,
or figuring over his navigation or provision account.

Melville is more and more a treasure every day. lie
is not only without a superior as an engineer, but he is
bright and cheerful to an extraordinary extent. He
sings well, is always contented, and brightens every-
body by his [)reseiice alone. He is always self-helpful
and reliant, never worries about the future, is ready
for any emeigency, has a cheerful word for everybody
night and morning, and is, in line, a tower of strength
in himself.

Dr. Ambler seems a kind of Mark Tapley, jolly when
he is probably most uncomfortable (for he is inclined to
sea-sickness). He does not take very kindly to canned
meats, and utterly denies himself the luxury of our

'•'HD^mnxti,

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

I i

', I

i s
-f

\ I

I ■
I

>P!

very superior hash. We have abundance of fresh po-
tatoes and turnips yet remaining ; in fact, the deck is
full of potato sacks, and he lives mostly upon vege-
tables. We got a whole sheep in Ounalaska, where, by
the way, we also got some fresh beef, and he (Dr.
Ambler) is not quite a skeleton yet.

Collins is the same Collins, getting off puns all the
time, some of them good and some wretchedly poor.
For a while we steadily refused to see his puns, and
woidd all look at him as innocently and inquiringly as
babies when he got one off, asking him to explain it
two or three times over, until he finally exclaimed that
our intellects must be weakening in proportion as we
increased our distance from San Francisco. Now, how-
ever, we let him pun away, praise the good ones and
condemn the bad.

For myself, I am doing all I can to make myself
trusted and respected, and I think I succeed. I try to
be gentle but firm in correcting anything I see wrong,
and always calm and self-possessed. I feel my respon-
sibility and care, and I hope I appreciate the delicate
position I am placed in of leading and directing so many
people of my own age. I hope God will aid me in what
1 have undertaken, and bring me through it in safety
and with credit.

Aur/nst 18, Noon. — Our schooner has just arrived,
and we have her alongside, and shall soon conunence
hoisting in her precious cargo. — coal and provisions.
During the past six days numy longing and anxious
looks were directed toward the horizon for a sight
of her, and I had already experienced that " Ijope de-
ferred maketh the heart sick." Now that she is here
we are up to our eyes in work and excitement, for I
have appointed Wednesday morning, the 21st inst., as

FKOM SAN FRANCISCO TO sT. LAWHENCE I'.AY.

dii

the (late of sailing for St. Lawrence Bay. If God will
only give us fair winds and let us save our coal until
we are through Behring Strait, we may find Nor-
dcnskjrdd and reach Kellett Land before the ice freezes
us in.

Although the beginning of my letter was dated the
Otli, I have been writing a little in it every day. So
you must not suppose that nine days went by without
my having thought of you and written to you. In fact,
1 am all ready to go on and tell you about the crew
where I left off the day before yesterday.

There is no doubt about it that we have as line a
crew as ever went on board of a ship. The}^ are cheer-
ful, good-humored, ready for anything, and as harmo-
nious as one family. There has not been a sign of a
disagreement or a suspicion of a growl. The men seem
to realize that every effort is being made to make them
comfortable, and they are really very comfortable. Well
clad, well fed, and easily worked, they seem to appre-
ciate the easy places in which their lines have been
cast. Being in places where it is illegal to sell liquor
there is none to be had, and liberty means simply a
chance to go ashore and wander around in the mud
and grass. We have set our seine, and have caught
enough salmon and flounders to give everybody fresh
fish nearly every day. When we could get geese and
ducks we have sent a fair portion forward among the
men, and have shared alike ; and when no geese or
ducks were to be had we eat canned meat in common.

The Chinese cook is a good cook, and, as I said in m^^
previous letter, makes good bread ; but unless we con-
clude not to watch things too carefully, and to make no
fuss over a stray hair or so, we cannot be happy.

The steward is fair as a steward, and the boy is sim-

? ;

'■I
^ 1 V

TIIK VOYACK OF TIIK .IKAXXETTE.

ply waste lumber. Under no circumstances shall I keep
him beyond this port. He cannot speak English or
understand it; he has already, by his stupidity, almost
made me grow gray. With it all, he is as childlike and
))land as the celebrated " heathen Chinee." lie will
spill water, break a plate, or stumble over us with a
smile that is almost heavenly. All that he is good for
is to aggravate the steward, who, though he is his
coimtryman, pitches into him in Chinese without stint.

Our furs are all l)eing made up into clothing on
shore, and we have a very line outfit indeed. With my
usual luck, I have met another man who nudvcs me
presents. The agent here, Mr. Newman, besides giv-
ing me his own outfit of fur clothing, insists on my
tailing his Winchester repeating rifle with eight hun-
dred rounds of anununition. In vain do I protest that
I do not want it, — the ship owning already four, of
which 1 use one. Mr. Newman seems to think I shall
not be properly equipped unless I take his rifle, and
so rather than give offense I accept it.

1 also organized and sent off a hunting party in the
steam-cutter, consisting of Melville, Collins, Dunbar,
and the doctor. 1 gave them a tent and so forth, and
tiiey remained away all night, coming back with about
a dozen ducks, and stiff and aching from the tramp
and sleeping on the ground. The doctor says he is con-
vinced that man must take to hard work gradually to
get accustomed to it. I think a tramp like that about
once a year would suit him very well.

[from the journal.]

AurjKst 2\M, Thnviiday. — A busy day with us. Com-
menced to swing ship at nine A. m. for compass devia-
tion. At one p. M. commenced receiviny; stores from

FHOM SAN FRANCISCO TO ST. LAWUKNH K I'.AY. 05

Mr. Newman, consisting of our fm- clothing, forty dogs,
live dog sleds, forty sets dog harness, snow - shoes,
tanned seal-skins, dressed beaver-skins, twelve slee[)ing
bags, sixty-nine pairs seal-skin boots, seven pairs deer-
skin boots, twenty-two pairs water l)oots, seventy-eight
pairs blanket socks, thirteen dressed skins, two tlressed
wolf-skins, lifty-two double squirrel junipers, twenty
single squirrel jumpers, four light squirrel jumpers,
three tame deer-skins, fifty deer-skin pantaloons, twelve
hair -seal pantaloons, one undressed deer- skin, four
dressed beaver-skins, one baidera, twenty cakes, 2,21)0
lbs. compressed dog food, etc. The made up garments
have been manufactured from the skins, and ten blan-
kets we sent on shore upon our arrival.

Mr. Newman generously presented me with a Win-
chester sixteen-shooter, eight hundred rounds ammuni-
tion, two deer-skin jumpers (parkies), seal-skin boots,
water boots, sleeping bag, gloves, and fur cap. To
this I must add a beautiful Arctic hare coverlet from
Mr. Ketchum, and sixty mink-skins from the same gen-
tleman for ship's use.

In our communications with the natives on the Si-
berian side we must have an interpreter, and it is ad-
visable also to have some one acquainted with the
driving and management of dogs and sleds. For these
reasons I have hired two natives, named respectively
Alexey and Aneguin, recommended by Messrs. Newman
and Nelson, the Signal Corps observer, as well as col-
lector for the Smithsonian Institution. Alexey was a
collector of specimens for him, and speaks English and
even writes it a little.

The terms of agreement are as follows : Alexey is
to receive twenty dollars per month and a proper out-
fit, which amounts to fifty dollars, and at the comple-

tmUmnammmmmtMmmm

TIIK VOYAGE OF THE .lEANNETTE.

; I

tioii of his .service a bieech-loiuling (that is, Winchester
repeating) rille and 1,000 cartridges. His wile shall
receive provisions (from Alaska Commercial Company
at our expense) during his absence amounting to live
<l()llars a month. Aneguin is to receive lifteen dol-
lars per month, a pro[)c.'r outfit amounting to fifty dol-
lars, and his mother shall receive provisions (also at our
expense) diuMug his absence amounting to live dollars
a month. IJoth men shall be clothed and found in the
necessaries of life until their return to St. Michael's,
Alaska Territory.

These two men came on board with me at five r. m.
Alex(^y was accompanied by his wife to say good-by,
and also his chief. To the wife we gave a China cup
and saucer, with the monogram U. S. N., which plea.sed
her greatly, and for her boy a mouth harmonicum ; for
the chief, 1 authorized Mr. 2sewman to issue a suitable
present from the store at our expense. Alexey and
Aneguin were nicely dres.sed up in white men's cloth-
ing, and each wore a hut with a red band around it.

The adieux being said at 0..jO p. m. Mr. Newman
and Mr. Nelson left us, and at seven p. m. we got nn-
der way and steamed out, being saluted with six guns
by Mr. Newman and three guns by Mr. Ketchum, and
answerinj; with our steam-whistle.

[to MUri. UE LON(;.]

At Ska, August -li.

1 have changed all my plans. On the 20th, while
we were hoisting in our coal and provisions, I made up
my mind that the schooner had about twenty tons
more coal than we could carry from here ; and as we
had to go over to St. Lawrence Bay, I decided that if
we had that amount of coal there to replace what we

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO ST. LAWKKXCE BAY. 97

burned in goinjj over, we should be better off tlmn il"
we left it behind at St. Michael's. Hence I Htopped
receiving coal and provi.sions and got ready for .sea, and
last evening at seven o'clock we steamed out of St.
Michael's, and are now on our way to St. Lawrence
Bay. 1 ordered the schooner to follow us, and she was
to leave this morning, and no doubt will arrive quite
as soon as ourselves, for she is light and we are very
deep. The sea is as smooth as gla.ss, however, and we
are going along very nicely. The distance is only three
hundred miles, and 1 expect to make the run in two
and a half days.

St. Lawuknce Bay, Siiikijia, Aur/ust 25, 1879.

When I had got as far as saying that we expected to
make our run in two and a half days 1 stopped writ-

Native Tattooing. St. Lawrence Bay.

ing for the night, expecting to make a day of it on the
23d for letter-writing. When I got up on the morn-
ing of the 23d it was to find an unsettled look in the

t I.

1)8

rilK V()YA(iK OF TIIK .IKANNr/nE.

'.I

1!^ ■

li :

weatljor with jjuitc a swell Ironi the northward. I kept
on heciiiise we had either to do tliat or turn haek, and
I (hd not hke to turn haek. As wo •:;ot out clear of
the land into iJehrinj^' Sea the wind freshened eonsider-
ahly, hut we were running along live knots, and every
mile made good on our way, and 1 could not eoinplain.
The water in so shallow in IJehring Sea that a very ugly
Hoa is raised in a short time, and conseciuently we had
it coming ahoard in all directions; we slowed the en-
gines and eased her somewhat, hut it freshened to a
sharp gale hefore many hours, and then we had it lively
enough — so lively in fact that I had to lay her to and
ride it out. This gale lasted ahout thirty hours, and
then moderated enough to let us proceed on our way
yesterday afternoon, and enaljled us to reach here to-
day at two o'clock r. m. While we were in the gale
the day hefore yesterday one unusually heavy sea
hroke on hoard, struck the front of the cnhin on my
side, stove in my window, and completely Hooded my
room. 1 was sitting dozing in my chair, when sud-
denly I Avas buried by the sea, covered with broken
glass, and everything 1 had was afloat.

Our forty dogs are a great item. They arc all good
sized and strong, and thus far roam around the dock
in a happy go lucky kind of way, fighting every live
minutes, and seemingly well contented. Wo have live
doir sleds from St. Michael's, r id the four wo brought
from Eny:land make nine alto other. I got also three
skin boats. I hired two nati s to go with us aa dog
drivers, very decent, intelligom Tien, and, wonderful to
relate, very clean. 1 had the rigged out in white
men's costume, and they look v ry swell indeed. They
live with the men of course, and their duty thus far is
to feed and water the dogs. The nature of these dogs

»■, 1

FROM SAN FI:AN( KSCO TO ST. LAWUKNCK llAV

is to light iit all tiuK's, iind unloss tlioy are beaten well
tliev will not keep the peace at all*

IJel'ore leavin*,^ St. Miehael's I (li(schar<^e(l the Chinese
hoy and placed him on hoard the schooner lor passaj^e
to San Francisco ; ho went on hoard the schooner with
the same (diildlike and bland smile that has ever char-
acterized him. accepting- the inevitable as a philosopher.

St. Lawrence Bay reminds nio oi" th'> scenery in tiie
Straits ot" Magellan, with monntains two thousand feet
high capped with snow ; the bay is magnilicent and
solitary. A lew dirty natives, clustering alongside the
ship I'or bread, are th j only signs ol" life. Tiie natives
have nothing to sell, and appear lazy and worthless to
the last degree.

deck

live

lought

three

dog

jful to

Iwhite

JThey

Ifar is

dogs

[l HUM llli; .K)l li.NAL.]

A«(/i(st "l')th. — A chief who calls himself '• George,"
and who speaks very often of Captain Cogan in the
little English he knows, told me he saw in one of his
journeys last winter a ship frozen in in Koliutchin Bay.
All my questions as to Avhother he boarded her then or
not could not bring a satisfactory reply, he one time say-
ing "yes," and the next time ''no." When I showed
him the chart of Admiral Rodgers'
survey in the Vincennes, he readily
pointed out Koliutchin Bay, East
Cape, the Diomede Islands. Con-
tinuing his story, the chief said
three months ago the same ship Bono-pipe.

which he had seen in Kolintchin Bay came to anchor
oft' his " house," at the northern side of the entrance
to St. Lawrence Bay — the bay itself being at that time
full of ice. The vessel was a s^^eamer smaller than the
Jeannette. This time he undoubtedly went on board.

r I

I i >

100

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

He says there were twenty- five people on boord the
ship. The cjiptain was an old man with a white beard,
and he did not speak Enghsli. There were two offi-
cers on board who did speak Enghsh, and there was
another officer, wlio was a Russian, and he spoke tlie
Cliuckch language like a native. To this last offi-
cer the chief spoke. When I asked him if he knew
the officer's name, he replied, " Yes, he name Hor-
pisli." On looking over the list of the officers who
accompanied Nordenskjold, I find a Lieutenant Nord-
quist, Russian Navy, and it may have been this offi-
cer to whom the chief sjioke. He did not k:iow the
name of anybody else. This " Horpish " told him the
ship was Swiss, (query Swedish ?) had wintered in Ko-
liutchin Bay, and was going home. Nobody seemed
to have any fur clothing, and ever} body that came
on deck shivered with the cold. The chief showed
me the track of the steamer from Koliutchin Bay to
St. Lawrence Bay, and pointed out the course of the
steamer on leavinu; as towards the Dio-
mede Islands, and thence south along the
coast of Kamtchatka. Remaining only
until the next day, the vessel steamed
out. According to the chief she had
" plenty coals." As a way of fixing the
date more clearly than the vague state-
ment " three moons ago," this steamer
arrived seven days after the departure
Native's Lamp. ^^£ Captaiu Cogau. Nothing else had since
called at St. Lawrence Bay until our arrival.^ This

^ " None of the natives in the neijiliborhood of tlic Vega's winter stiition
professed the Christian religion. None of them spoke any European lan-
guasre, thoitsrh one or two knew a couple of English words and a Kussian
word of sahitation. This was a very unfortunate circumstance, wliich
causeil us mucli trouble. But it was soon remedied by Lieutenant Nord-

FllOM SAN FRANCISCO TO ST. LAWUENCi: BAY. 101

was the sum and substance of the information, and al-
though 1 questioned tlie man earefuUy and repeatedly
I could learn nothing further, while the same story was
each time repeated in detail. 1 can account for our
not hearing of the arrival of Nordenskjold, at some
place in civilization up to our departure from San Fran-
cisco, only on the ground of his being obliged to sail
the whole distance to Japan, which is a likely enough
supposition.

I landed and strolljd over the sand -spit, dignified
with the name of Lutke's Island.
Here and there were skeletons
of whales' heads, bones of wal-
ruses, etc.; and I saw what seemed

to be a grave, without, how- Bone Harpoon Heads

ever, any mark beyond nine small stones laid in the
sand, in this shape : —

o o o

o o

When we anchored, large numbers of ducks seemed to
make this sand-spit a resting-place, and several of them
with their little families swam around us. But the ship
and uuiselves seemed to frighten them immediately
away, for not one duck was to be found on the island,
and the mother duck,- and their young paddled away
incontinently. A small pond hi the centre of the spit
was resorted to by small birds like snipe, and Mr. New-
comb shot several to add to his collection. The natives

(juist sjicciiilly devoting liiiiiscif to tlie study of tlu'ir laivjinngc, and that
with siii'h zi'ul and siiccuss that in a fortnisiht he could maki' himself pretty
well understood. The natives stated to I)e Long, in tlu^ autumn of 1879,
that a person on the 'man-of-war,' which wintered on the North Coast,
spoko Chuckch exceedingly well." — A. A. Noudkxsk.ioi.d's Tlif VoijiKje
of the Vega, p. 369.

I i

I '■

11'

'^ii

I ■■>

I ■; i ■

I:'
J''

k* '

102

TIIK VOYAGE OF TIIK JEANNiyi'TE.

here appear to be in a wretched con(htion. Each fam-
ily of about a dozen, adults and children, roamed about
in its baidera.

[to MUS. 1)K l,ON»i.]

August 27th. — The schooner arrived last evening,
and we are now hoisting in the last of the coal and pro-

Native's Knife of Bone.

visions, and shall leave at seven o'clock this evening.
The weather is beautiful, light southerly breeze, and
smooth sea, and I am anxious to be off. And yet it
seems like saying good-by once more. However, I am
in this thing and I am going to see it through.

I have interviewed the chief who saw the steamer
several times since, and I have about come to the con-
clusion that it was Nordcnskjiild's steamer that he saw.
When I telegraphed the Secretary asking if the rumors
concerning the Swedish Expedition were reliable, he
referi-ed to the Secretary of State. Tliis Secretary tel-
egi'aphed to our Minister at Stockholm, and the Minister
telegraphed hack that Nordenskjold, wiien lasi heard
from, was at Cape Serdze Kamen, and was to leave in
May. Now Cape Serdze Kamen is one hundred and
thirty miles from here, and there is a settlement on the
Cape. I have decided to go there and make an in-
quiry, and if I lind the Swedes were there and have
left, I shall push for Wrangel Land at once; if not —
and there is the sticker — T suppose I shall have to
grope along until I lind where they did winter. We
have nearly one hundred and sixty tons coal, and all

pro-

FKOM SAN FRANCISCO TO ST. LAWHEXt K ISAY. 103

our provisions in the ship, and we can afford to .steam
a great deal yet.

We 8liall tow the scliooner outside the harbor a.s we
go. The natives are rather an ugly looking lot, and I
do not care to leave the schooner alone with her little
crew of- six men. I have given the captain fifty dol-
lar? for himself ; he has waited upon us fjiithfully, and
carries back our mail-bag to General Miller for us, as
well as our smiling angel of a Chinaman.

Bone Shovel, Front View

Bone Shovel, Side View.

^ I

;ii I

II i

CHAPTER IV.

DRIFTING IN ICE OFF IIEllALD ISLAND.

27 August — 30 September, 1879.

Through Behriug Strait. — Cape Serdze Kanu>ii. — A Letter ]eft for
Later Vessel. — Cliief George. — Koliutcliiu Bay. — Definite Tid-
ings of the Vega. — Coasting an Ice-Pac k. — Herald Island sighted.
— Grinding through the Ice. — The Rudder unshipped. — Setting
Bear-Traps. — A Sludge-Party toward Herald Island. — Return of
the Party. — A Bear-Chase. — Herald Island Disappearing Ex-
periments to d'jtormine the Air hreathed on the Berth Deck. — Con-
sumption of Coal. — The Drift Ice. — An Electric Phenomenou. —
Bills of Fare. — Daily Routine.

August 27th, Wednesdmj. — At 7.35 p. m. we got
under way, with .scliooner in tow, and stood out. Let
go of schooner at 9.30, and she stood to the southward
and eastward, with northeast wind, while we shaped
course N. N. E. and stood toward Behring Strait.

August 28</«, Thursday. — The day opens with its
(to us) usual accompaniment, a head wind. As we ap-
proached Behring Strait, the wind freshened consid-
erably, blowing f.rom N. N. W. true, a heavy fog
blowing over the bluff highland on the Asiatic side.
Just to the southward of East Cape saw a schooner
close under the land and standing to the southward.
Upon showing our ensign, she hoisted American colors.
As she had a crow's-nest at her mast-head, 1 assumed
that she was a whaler. The wind seemed to draw reg-
ularly down through the Strait as through a funnel, and
as we passed through, the wind hauled to the westward

III I

DRIFTING IN ICE OFF HERALD ISLAND.

105

got

its

I fog

Ind
ivd

with us, finally heading us at N. W. true. The surface
water ranged from 2° to 4° higher than the air in tem-
perature, but I was unable to detect positively any
current, although it would seem natural to suppose that
the warmer water set to the northward. The dredge
brought up from twenty-eight fathoms a fair collection.

August 20th, FrkJay. — Before leaving St. Lawrence
Bay, I had decided to call at Cape Serdzo Kamen to
seek tidings of Nordenskjiild. AVhile in San Francisco,
I had seen in the newspapers that he had passed
through Behring Strait ; and I telegraphed to the
Navy Department asking if such a report was consid-
ered reliable. Before sailing, the Secretary of the
Navy sent me a copy of a communication from the Sec-
retary of State, giving the words of a cablegram from
Mr. Stevens, our Minister at Stockholm, who had been
telegraphed to for information : " Last at Serdze Kamen ;
was to sail in May." Besides this, I had received a
cable from Mr. Sibiriakoff, of St. Petersburg, asking me
to leave papers for Captain Sengstaecke, commanding
the A. E. Nordenskjold, a vessel built l>y Mr. Sibiria-
koff, to go in search of the Vega. For these two rea-
sons, therefore, I determined visiting Serdze Kamen,
with the hope also of verifying the tidings received at
St. Lawrence Bay.

The land to the northward and westward of Bchrint?
Strait is so vaguely described in books of sailing direc-
tions, and so roughly delineated on the charts, that it
was very difficult to determine which cape was Cape
Serdze Kamen. We have had no observations for lat-
itude or longitude at noon, and are rather uncertain as
to oiu- whereabouts. However, between noon and four
r. M. I stood in toward the land for a kind of bay sur-
rounded by high round hills, and at four sighted a col-

^n.

ii'.

i| i

( »

ii t

106

THE VOYACE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

lection of native houses on the port hand on a high
bhiit", and another collection of native lonses right
ahead on tlie beach at the foot of the bay. At the
same moment the sun ap[)eared, and Mr. Danenhovver,
by using the given latitude of Cape Serdze Kumen, N.
07" 12', obtained the longitude as given that place on
the chart. This bay appeared to have a general north
find south direction, to be about seven miles in width
at its entrance, with line large headlands. All around
the edge of the bay was fringed with broken pieces of
bay ice in a soft and rotten condition. The bay was in
depth about four miles, 1 should say. Stood in care-
fully, keeping lead going, and at 5.1U P. m. anchored in
8 1-2 fathoms water, hard bottom, sand, and stones.
We kept steam ready for a start at a moment's warning,
for a fresh N. W. wind, rough sea, and hard bottom
made our anchort.,ge a little precarious.

As soon as the crew had supper, 1 took whaleboat,
and, accompanied by Lieutenant Chipp, Mr. Dunbar,
Mr. Collins, and the Alaskan, Alexey, went in towards
the settlement at the foot of the bay. I drew np the
following paper to be left with the natives, addressed
" To the Commanding Officer of any Ship visiting Cape
Serdze Kamen : " —

United States Auctic Stkameie Jkannktte,
(.'ii/h; Serdze Kanien, Aiii/ust 21), 1871*.

This vessel stopped in hero this day at five P. U. to endeavor
to learn soniethinjf about the Swedish Exploring Expedition
under the oommand of Professor Nordenskjold. We arrived
at St. Eawrence bay on the 25th inst., and learned from the
natives there that a steamer which liad wintered in Koliutohin
]l;i. had come to St. Lawrence Bay and remained one day,
rl,i' .,.;. tln-ee months before our arrival, for home by way of
li;*^ ''uuntcliatkan coast. Her captain was an old man with a

1^ ;

i I

nttWS

DUIFTING IN ICE OFF HEKALD ISLAND.

107

white beard, unci he did not speak English. Two officers on
board did speak English, and tiiere was i-n officer who was
Iliissian who spoke the Chuukch hinguage like a native. With
this hist olHcer, who was named Horpish (?), the natives
spoke, and were told the ship was a Swiss (?) which was going
home, liaving wintereil in Koliutchin IJay. We left St. Law-
rence Bay at 7.30 P. M. August 27th. C"am(^ here because
this is the place at which Nordenskjiild is last r('])orted to be,
and because I was requested by Mr. Sibiriakoff, of St. Peters-
burg, to leave papers here for Captain Sengstaecke, who com-
mands the steamer Xordenskjiild, now on her way here from
Europe. The ollicers and men under my command are all
■well, and we expect to sail to-night for Wrangel Land by
Koliutchin Bay.

Please communicate this news of us to the Secrcta?y of the
Navy, Washington, D. C, United States of America.

Geokgi-: W. De Long,

Lieutenaut U. S. iVi/;'//,
Commandlnj American Arctic Expedition.

Til

With this letter and a bundle of newspapers ad-
dressed to Captain Sengstaecke, I attempted to land.
Upon getting in toward the beach we found so much
ice moving about as to make a landing iuipossible ; but
after pulling to and fro for about half an hour, we
saw the natives getting ready to come out to us iu
a skin boat. Presently they succeeded in gettiug out,
but to our disappointment we could not make each
other understood. Ilopiug to learn something by per-
sistence, we led the way back to the ship, the natives
followinu: in obedience to our signals. The chief, a
stout, not ill-looking man, was seated amidships in Iiis
baidera, clad in a bright red tunic and a cloth cap (that
evidently came at some time from civilization), with all
the dignity of a king.

Upon arriving on board ship nothing could make this

i.i\

II (

" .

: ^ :

It.

108

Til VOYAdE OF THE JEANNETTE.

chief or his peoplo understand what we wanted to know,
and after an hour's eii'ort, backed by charts and all sorts
of pantomime, we had to give it up and let the natives
go ashore. I could not leave it like this, so I deter-
mined to wait until daylight, send Chipp in again to
make a landing if possible, and look for any traces of
white men having been there.

AiKjust oOth, Saturday. — At three a. m. Lieutenant
Chipp went in shore in the whaleboat, accoinpanied by
Mr. Dunbar and Alexey, as also by Mr. Collins. This
time a landing was effected, and by great good luck a
satisfactory result was obtained. Upon entering the
chief's hut another attempt was made to make him un-
derstand what we were after, without avail. By a
happy inspiration an old squaw was brought forward
(who came originally from somewhere in the neighbor-
hood of King's Island), and it was found that Alexey
and she could understand each other. From that time
forward all was plain sailing. The story heard at St.
Lawrence Bay was repeated in detail, — the steamer
having stopped here also one day and then gone home.
" Ilorpish " seemed to be equally well known here.
Following Chipp's return on board came the chief and
his tribe, including the old squaw, and we had the story
over again, with the addition that the steamer had win-
tered on the east side of Koliutchin Bav, had built a
house, (an observatory ?) which she took down and car-
ried away on leaving. Times and dates we could not
get at, nor names, except the never-failing " Horpish."

If Nordenskjrdd had left any kind of a written paper
at St. Lawrence Bay, or at this place, it would have
saved much uncertainty ; but as he had no uneasiness
about his situation, and of course knew nothing about
the excitement in Europe and America, his not leaving

DRIFTING IN ICE OFF HERALD ISLAND.

109

any paper is not to be wondered at. As Koliuteliin
Bay was soniewliat in our track I concluded to look in
there in passing.

Lest anybody coming after us .should be perplexed
for want of proo* of our having been at Serdze Kanion,
I made .sure that the chief knew that he must exhibit
the letter which I wrote yesterday to any ship that
called in ; and, moreover, I gave him a sailor cap with
the ship's ribbon bearing the word " Jeannette " in
bright gold letters, of which the chief was so proud
that I knew he would exhibit it to all foreigners. Col-
lins wrote a notice of our visit on a piece of paper which
I signed, and it was pasted in this cap.

All these things being done, and tobacco, tea, and
bread being presented (rum was asked for but declined)
to the chief and needles to the squaw, and some .salmon
and deer meat being returned by them, we said good-
by, and at six a. m. got under way and steamed out.
At ten A. M. saw a baidera under sail standing for us
from still another collection of huts near the west ciipe
of this bay. Ran down to them, but as they could not
be understood by us, and evidently had not much to
say, we left them and proceeded on our way. Foggy
and misty from noon to midnight ; N. W. and N. winds.

August 31.S'/, Sunday. — During the night let the
ship run along west. At five a. m., having run oft'
enough distance to bring us on the meridian of the
eastern edge of Koliutchin Bay, sighted a point of land
bearing south true, and a low coast line extending east
and west. An extensive pack of old ice continuing to
about live miles from the land seemed to reach as far
as eye could see east and west, with a funnel-shaped
opening, the funnel point toward the land. Supposing
that such an opening would be caused by a river empty-

w iii »ni.'. »...i 'ii i |i i '«>mw i ;»w« > >| ii^

110

TIIK V(»YA(iK <»F Tin: JKANNEITK.

!i ? '^

fl '

Hj.

iiijr its waters into a )>av, and tlic chart showinr^ such a
river llowiiit,^ into Kohiitchin Hay. I decided to stand
into the openinj;-. which we acconUngly (hd at 5.40, the
land beinjj; hid(kMi at times by passin<^ snow-s((ualIs.

At seven A. M. made out what looked like houses on
the ridi-'c ol" a small hill hack from the heach, which 1
now saw we could not get to on account of the bay ici'
fringing it for about two miles in extent, — our funnel-
shaped opening closing up at that distance from the
shore. A little later 1 could make out several houses
(juife ])lainly from my post in the crow's-nest, and at
eight o'ck)ck, having reached the edge of the ice.
stopped the ship and sent in Lieutenant (Jhipp, Mas-
ter Danenhower. Mr. Dunbar, and Alexey in the whale-
boat, for one more ell'ort to make sure that Norden-
skjiild had passed south in safety. During the absence
of the whaleboat kept the engines ready to move the
ship, and backed when it was necessary to keep the
ship off the ice. At ten, got a sounding in fifteen
fathoms, coarse gravel, and lowered the dredge with
ii:ood results. Mr. Xewcomb also shot and added to
his collection some large gulls. The whaleboat could
be seen from the ship aloft, winding her way in and
among narrow lanes of water, and 1 watched her anx-
iously while Melville handled the ship, initil I saw her
land and her people mingle with some natives who
had come down to the beach to meet the boat. At
one p. M. Lieutenant Chipp and party returned, and
brought back information which was relialile beyond
question. The Vega wintered here, about two miles
more to the southward and westward than this native
settlement. Chij)p was walked along the beach and
the place pointed out to him. As well as could be
made out (for no one spoke or understood English on

DRIFTING TN HE OFF IIKUALD ISLANP.

Ill

shore, and AU'xey was of no more uso in this countiy
tlian oinwolves), tho W'gii k'lt hero i'or the eastward
two or three months ago. Tokens ol the Vega were
bought by Chi[)|), he using his vest buttons as ready
casli, and brought ott' to the ship. [Among otiier
things there were three navy buttons, — Swedish, Dan-
ish, and Russian.] These navy buttons ah)n(; would be
proof enough of the Vega Iiaving wintered here, l)e-
cause no other ship was in this part of the workl with
Swedish, Danish, and Russian naval otlicers on board.

Hoisted the whaleboat and steamed out to the north-
ward at I.IO; at two held divine service, and 1 believe;
all our hearts were thankful that at last we knew Nor-
denskjiild was safe, and we might proceed on our way
toward Wrangel Land.*

The ice on the western side of our funnel-shaped
opening made out from the land, .so that it wa.s 5.15
p. M. before we were clear enough of the pack to shape
our course N. W. by N. At six we sighted a large
island, supposed to be Koliutchin Island. During the
first watch wo were nuich bothered by loose ice in large
lumps, requiring constant conning to avoid trouble. At
ten p. M., finding the ice growing heavier, I put her on
the other tack to N. E. true, and stood out of it, stop-
ping the engines from 11.40 to twelve, to let the ship
drift through some small openings into open water.

September l.s7, Jfondaij. — An ordinary day, so far
as events go. During the afternoon land was sighte<l
bearing S. W., — probably the land around Cape North

^ Biiron Nordenskjolil, after wintcrinf^ at this place, was released from the
ice July 18, 187D, passed Serdze Kaineii on the 19th, anchored off St. Law-
rence Island on the 31st, and air:'iu off Behrinij; Island August 14tli, reach-
ing Yokohama Si^ptember 2il. When Ciiplain I)e Lon'^ saw Chief Georiie,
therefore, the Ve<;;a had been gone u mouth only, and not three, as he
gathered from the chief. — Ed.

I /]

» *l II IH«t)i»«<«»«j>MjH

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H. ■!

112

THE VOYAC.E OF THE JEANNETTE.

on the Sihoriiui coast. Although this hiiul is .sixty
miles I'roni our position, I can account for our seeing
it only by mirage. Jt did not really seem over thirty
miles. A c'onsideral)le amount of pack ice was between
us and this land. Wii were favored with a beautiful
Hunset, and a moonlight and starlight night.

^<vpiclnber 2(1, Tiittnlaii. — On our course from eight
last evening until .seven this morning, — N. W. (at
which time we were about one hundred miles from
the .southeast cape of Wrangel Land ). But at the
last-named hour made the ice-pack ahead, and extend-
ing; as far to the westward as we could see. Duriny; the
forenoon watch we ran through a lot of loose ice, mak-
ing a true north course as well as possible. At 11.30,
being through the loose ice, were confronted by the
.solid pack, which headed us oti' to the N. E. true during
the afternoon watch while we Avere .skirting it.

At noon sounded in twenty -four fathoms, — thick
blue mud and shells. A line S. E. breeze had .sprung
up by this time, to which we made all .sail, and were
slipping along six knots while coasting the pack. Be-
ing headed off to N. E. true, and increasing our dis-
tance from Wrangel Land instead of diminishing it. 1
decided at nine r. m. to bank fires, save coal, and let
her go under .sail for the night. Stopped engines there-
fore at 0.50. To-day, having bright sunlighf all day,
were able to locate oiu* position by observation . Lati-
tude 69" 10' N., longitude 176" 6' 30" W.

September od, Wednesday. — A lively day. At one
A. M. sighted the ice ahead and on the weather bow.
Hauled .sharp by the wind, but before we could get
steam had closed in on the ice, striking it easily with
our port side, and we lay there until we had steam
enough to crawl off No damage done. Found we had

DIUFTIXd IN ICi: OKI" IIKIJAIJ) IsLAN'D.

li:i

(li-iftiMl into a hiiy in the ice. Iljiuled off to the oiist-
wjird and soutlic-ist.

At (liivli'-lit tlio wciitlicr liocmiw* thick and fod-.rv.
Sighted a banine to the S. E. imdcr all sail. Had her
in sight I'or three hoins, when we h)st her in the t'oLj.
At her ne!ire>t she was four miles (hstant, and we were
too anxious about (inihng a decent openin*^ in the pack
to run down and speak her. At ei<>ht A. m., there be-
ing nothing but ice in sight, exce|)t to tiie S. E. where
we had oome ironi. I concluded to put the ship into a
hkely looking lead in the pack opening towards the
N. W. We accordingly worked along in this lead,
keeping a general N. W. direction until 3.10 r. M.,
when it became so foggy and the ice so closely packed
that we stopped and ])lanted an ice-anchor in a conven-
ient floe. Meanwhile, at noon we got soundinfj-s in
twenty-eight fathoujs (blue mud), and towed the dredge,
adding son.e star-fish to oiu" collections. At 4.80 the
fog lifted a little and we got under way, working to
northward true until 5.30 p. m., when we again an-
chorcd to a floo, the fog becoming impenetrable. Calm
with thick fog up to midnight. At seven r. m. .sounded
in thirty-eight fathoms (blue mud). Tired with my
day in the crow's-nest.

Septemher 4:th, Thursdnij. — The day opens calm and
Avith a thick fog. Still at anchor to the lloe. AV^e ob-
serve a gradual closing in of large iloes around us, and
a seeming drift of small pieces to the .southeast through
the small water spaces. The rigging is one mass of
snow and frost, presenting a beautiful sight ; but as we
are more interested in progress than in beautiful sights
it has but little charm for us. The pack ice surround-
ing u.s seems to have a uniform thickness of about .seven
feet, — two feet being above the water. It is somewhat
8

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114

TiiK voya(;e ov the jkann'ktik.

Inmunocky, but I do not observe any hummock f^rc-ater
in hei<^}.i than six or seven feet. New ice has made
around the ship durin*^ the night, the tem])erature
standing iit 29° (huMiig the night and up to eight A. m.
Sounds as of surf heard to southeast intheating open
water in that direction.

At two r. M. the fog cleared away, and we spread
fires at once and got under way. The greatest amount
of water space seeming to be to the northeast, we made
our way in that direction generally, and at 4.o() we suc-
ceeded in getting out of the pack into the open sea;
that is. comparatively open, because the pack extended
from .southeast around by west to north, while only to
the eastward was there open water. Upon reaching
this open water we passed a (h'ifting tree that seemed
to have been torn up by the roots, but, more im])()rtant
still, land was sighted at 4.30, bearing W. N. W. true.
From the reckoning we have been able to keep of our
position, this land is Herald Island, discovered and landed
upon by Captain Kellett, of II. M. S. Herald, in 184U.
Not caring to put the ship in the close pack which ap-
])eared to the noithward of us and lose sight of Her-
ald Island without advancing materially, I slowed the
engiries and kept the ship turning round in circles for
the night, just clear of Liie ice. According to our po-
sition we were about forty miles from Herald Island,
and as it wivs very much distorted by mirage we could
not make a clo.ser estinuite of the distance. Wind dogs
around the sun at .setting, but a beautiful nioonrise
gave promise of a fine night.

September 5//^ Fviday. — A clear and pleasant day
throughout, with light northerly breeze. At four A. m.
spread all fire.s and got a full head of steam, and entered
the pack through the best looking lead in the general

■

DRIFTING IN ICE OFF HERALD ISLAND.

115

direction of Herald Island. For the iirst two hour.s we
hud but little trouble in making our way, but at six a. m.
we eoninienced to meet younpf ice ranging from one to
two inches in thickness in the leads, and seemingly grow-
ing tougher as we proceeded. We groiuid along, how-
ever, scratching, and in places scoring and cutting our
doubling, until 8.40 a. m., when we came to pack ice
from ten to fifteen feet in thickness, which of course
brought us up. Anchored to the iloe to wait for an
opening.

During the forenoon there were several occasions
when we distinctly saw land beyond and above Herald
Island, as well as to the southwest of and beyond it. I
.should at first have been inclined to think that the land
above and beyond Herald Island was a kind of false
island made by the mirage ; but as the land seen to the
southwest of Herald Island was in the shape of high
sugar-loaf snow-topped mountains with clearly defined
edges, such as could not have been caused by mirage,
for there were no hummocks in our Hoe horizon to be
thus distorted, I am strengthened in my belief that we
really saw the land. Its distance is impo.ssi])le even to
estimate. Looking across the ice disturbs one's belief
in his accuracy in measuring distances by the eye. For
instance, on board ship we genoniily agv >e as to the
distance of an object at sea; but here in the ice no
two estimates correspond. We [)ut the distance of this
land seen beyond Herald Island u- \arious limits, rang-
ing between forty and one hundred miles ; and though
since sighting Herald Island last night we luvve steanuid
towards it twenty miles, one half the estinuitcid dis-
tance, but fev «' us agree as to its distance now. We
range from ten to forty miles. At one w m.. seeing an-
other chance to make a mile or two, we got up steam

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THE VOYAGE OK THE JEAXNETIE.

and worked ahead throui^li thin, new ice, and ])ctween
detached pieces of Hoe. At four we andiored a,<rtiin .o a
floe, and hanked fires. Onr sides, on tlie douhhng, are
scrii[)ed hright, and scr tched and cut to some extent,
hut they are the scars ol" honorahle wounds received in
action witii tlie ice.

Svptijuhvr (')fh, Saturday. — This is a glorious country
to leiu-n patience in. 1 am hoping and praying to he
aljk' to get the ship into Herald Iskmd to make winter
(juarters. As far as the eye can range is ice, and not
only does it look as if it had never hroken up and he-
come water, hut it also looks as if it never would. Yes-
terday I hoped that to-day Avould make an opening for
us into the land ; to-day 1 hope that to-morrow will do
it. I suppose a gale ot" wind would hreak the |)ack up,
Init then the piick might hreak us up. aird that is not
to he desired. This morning shows some ])ools of thin
ice and water, hut as they are disconnected, and we
cannot jump the ship over ohstructions, they are of no
use vet to us. A thick fog hangs over everything, even
the island. A light northerly wind with a steady harom-
eter, and a temperature rangirg hetween 23° and 32°.

At one r. jr. the fog lifted, and we saw a chance of
making ahout a mile toward the island. Spread iires
again and connnenced forcing our wav, rannuing wher-
ever we were opposed, and with good effect. Of course,
I'MUuning a ship through ice from ten to lifteen feet
thick wiis impossihle. hut wherever a crack or narrow
opening showed l)etw(^en two Hoes, even of that thick-
ness, we could hy judicious rannuing, and hacking and
rannuing again, shove them apart enough to squeeze
through. Our stciun-winch did good f\irvice, for we
could easily snuh the ship's head into a weak place when
we did not have room to turn lier with the iielm. At

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DlllFTJNG IN ICK OFF IIEKALD ISLAND.

119

4.20, howcve:, we had come to solid tloes agiiin, imd as
the thick fog again shut in we came to with our ice-
anchor. Wishing to save even the coal we used with
banked fires, until a good chance i)resented itself for
going ahead, I let the fires die out. This evening three
bears came down to about a mile from the ship, but fled
upon being seen and chased ])y our hunters. Served
out, snow-goggles to all hands, with orders to wear
them.

Sejjf ember 7th, Sunday, — A day of complete rest in
every respect. The day b .r'us with snow, clears, be-
comes and ends foggy. Ice moving a little, and ship
seemingly moving to N. W. At ten a. m. muster the
crew, read the Articles of War. and hold divine service.
At twelve got soundings in fortv fathoms blue mud.
In the watch from eight to midnight, experienced a
slight pressure on the starboard beam, shoving the ship
up on a tongue of ice on the port side and listing her
to starboard about live degrees.

September Sth, Manday. — At 1.30 this morning the
ship righted again. Thermometer ranging between 22°
and 28°. Forenoon foggy ; afternoon clear. No sign
of a lead in any direction. The northerly winds seem
to have cemented the ice into one enormous pack.
Soundings at noon in thirty-six fathoms blue mud. The
ship has evidently moved since yesterday, when we had
forty fathoms. In the (irst watch the ship heeled again
to starboard al)out 9°, and jannned the rudder hard
a-starboard.

Lest at any time the question be asked why I do not
imship the rudder and screw at this time, I will record
here my reasons. Our rudder is unusually strong and
heavy ; and though it is a simple matter to unship it. it
will be an exceedingly difficult matter to ship it again

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120

TllK VOYAGE OF TilK JKAXNETTK.

unless we have plenty oi" open Avater under the stern.
If 1 trice up the screw now, ice will surely form in the
clutch and prevent the screw from getting back in place.
If 1 expected the ship to remain in this spot all winter,
these reasons would have less weight liut as I con-
sider it an exceptional state t)f the ice that we are hav-
ing just now, and count upon the September gales to
hrcak up the pack, and perhaps open leads to Herald
Island, I want the ship to be in condition to move with-
out delay. Besides, 1 am told that in the latter part of
September and early part of October there is expe-
rienced in these latitudes quite an Indian Sumiuer, and
I shall not begin to expect wintering in the pack until
this Indian Sunnner is given a chance to liberate us.

Si'pttmbcr dth, THcsday — A superb day; hright
sunlight, thermometer ranging between 21" and 25".
No sign of a lead in any direction. Established oin-
position to be by observation, 71" 35' N., 175" 5' 48"
W. At 7.30 p. M., with a sunset entirely free from
clouds, made out land distinctly between S. W. and W.
and S. S. W. The land furthest t'» the westwjird was a
kind of table land, with a range of ])eaks to its south-
ward, terminating in a low, flat strip just behind Herald
Island. And this is the land which, two months ago
yesterday, we sailed for from San Francisco, hoping to
explore this winter. Man proposes but God disposes.
Here we are not even able to get to Herald Island.
Ship still heeled 0^ to starboard, and great pressure on
the rudder casing. This must be eased or we may
damage the pintles. We have Ijeen trying all day to
explode torpedoes under the stern, but our slow-match
was defective and would not burn, and we could not get
an electric current through our non-insulated copper
wire. During the last three days have turned the dogs

fmr^^^^^m

1)IIIFTI\(; IN ICK OFF IIEKALl) ISLAM).

121

out on the ice, from daylight to dark, as iiiiieh to their
satisfaction as to ours : to theirs, because they can run
around with more freedom ; and to ours, because we
can keep the shij) clean again. As we set bear-tra[)s
every night, we call the dogs on board ship to prevent
accident. Though each morning we see the imdoubted
traces of Ijcars, the traps seem to have been avoided.

Septembet' 10th, Wethicfidai/. — Calm from midnight
to noon, with fog, mist, and snow all day. Lowest tem-
perature IG", highest 25°. In the hope of helping the
.ship to right herself, got two tackles up, one at the fori'-
mast head, and one at the mainmast head, hooking them
to ice-claws and setting them well taut. Broke away
the ice around the stern and attempted sawi.ig with
ice-saws, but with no other effect than to bend up the
siiws. The soundinus of the past few davs have steadilv

Oil' ■

decreased : forty, thirty-six, thirty-live, thirty-two and
a half fathoms. The whole pack, with ourselves fast
in it, is evidently drifting; but whether the shoaling in
souridings indicates an approach to Herald Island or not
cannot be proven until we get observations again for
position. Not a sign of a lead in any direction.

SejMcmher 11th, Tliursdaii. — The ship has not
righted any during the night. An examination of the
ice around the stern this morning shows that we are
between two floes about fifteen feet in thickness. The
ice on the port side of the ship has been broken on its
upper edges and piled up irregularly fore and aft, while
on the starl)oard side (toward Avhich the ship heels) the
surface is smooth and unbroken. The strain brought
on the rudder by the nip has '" broomed " up the port
side of the rudder post and rudder casing, and I am re-
luctantly forced to the conclusion that we must unship
it. A more severe nip might break the gudgeons or

I) 11

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-1 aJ^

TIIK V()YA(iK OF THE .lEANNKTTK.

bend the; pintles, and wo might not only lose our rudder,
hut lose the means of shipping the spiire one. Accord-
ingly the rudder is unshipped (with great difficulty,
owing to the small water space) and triced up to its
davits, across the stern. A thick mist prevented us
from seeing the island all day. Soundings at noon in
twenty-nine fathoms, light blue mud. Still shoaling.
Leaving the load on the bottom, wo were carried away
from it toward the northwest.

At last caught something in the bear-trap, but it was
unfortunately one of our (inest dogs. He was caught
by the fore-log, the tooth of the trap catching between
the bones without breaking them, and I hope wo shall
soon have him all rij^ht again. Turned the starboard
side of the bridge into a dog hospital, and turned the
dog in for repairs.

f^eptevnher 12fh, FrUl((y. — The day opened and con-
tinued calm and misty with occasional flurries of snow.
The only thing to break the monotony was the catching
of another dog — our largest, Kasmatka — in a bear-
trap. Now that the dogs have learned the way to the
traps there is. danger of one of them being caught every
day ; and 1 consequently ordered the traps to be taken
in. Fortunately neither of the dogs caught have had
any bones broken or any serious injury inflicted ; bnt
we cannot afford to have any of them laid up during
the working season.

This inaction is most disagreeable, and it is even
more disagreeable to see no chance for a change. The
only hope of the pack Ijreaking up is the occurrence
of a gale of wind ; and as the weather has been so uni-
forndy calm and pleasant since our being beset that the
ice has become well connected and solidified, it will re-
quire a heavy gale to make a change. Meanwhile, we

- I. Ill i,iii.ii| I i.iwiiiy

lJl!IFTIN(i IN UK OFF UKRAfJ) ISLAND.

123

are getting no nearer Herald Island, and are making no
advance in any direction, unless we are really drifting,
ice and all, to the N. W. It is unpleasant to realize
that our exploration for a whole year should come to a
stop on the Gth September, and that at a i)oint which
a sailing ship, the Vincenncs, reached in 1855 without
any dilliculty. And here we are in a steamer, and be-
set in the pack before we are two months out of San
Fi'ancisco. My disappointment is great, how great no
one else will probably ever know. 1 had hoped to ac-
complish something new in the lirst sunnner, and we
have done nothing. While waiting for next summer
we are consuming our provisions and fuel, and running
the risk of the enfeeblement of the i!;eneral health which
a Avinter's conlinement may produce.

There is a bare chance of there being drift-wood
on Herald Island to help us out in the matter of fuel,
■ nd as this is an important matter, I conclude to send
a sledge party toward the island to get information.
Chipp, therefore, is ordered to prepare for a journey,
and accompanied by Melville, Dunbar, and Alexey, to
take a sledge and eight dogs to proceed toward Herald
Island to-morrow morning at eight o'clock. It is just
as well, also, that I should know something about the
ice between the ship and Herald Islan'1. a^.d the exist-
ence of some harbor into which the ship might be, by
some happy circumstance, secured for the winter, if
there is to be no fiu'ther advance for us this season.
In making preparations for the sledge journey the day
ends.

September VMh, Saturdai/. — At eight a. m. the sledge
party leaves. We are all on deck to see it start, the
colors are hoisted, and we cheer the little party as it
moves oft", the dogs in high glee, dragging the sled

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124

TIIK vova(;k of riiK jkawkitk.

riapidly aloiitij alter Alexoy, wlio runs and dances before
them. We are now brouL^ht face to face with anothei'
dillicidty: -where are we to get water to use without
expeuihiig our fuel in (hstilling? The ice all around
the ship gives water that is uinnistakably salt, and our
searches thus far cainiot succeed in finding ice sufh-
ciently free from salt to be non-injurious to the con-
sumers. Even the snow gives evidence of salt to too
great a degree for use ; and as we have seen no ice-
bergs at all (in fact no one else has seen them north of
Behring Strait), we are without any of the fresh water
ice mot with in Smith's Sound and Baffin's Bay. Tak-
ing Dr. Ambler with me. two sleds, and men with axes,
I started off this evening on a search for better ice.
About a mile and a half from the ship to the westward
we came to a large lump of ice on end on the Hoc, which,
upon being tested Iw the application of nitrate of silver
to a melted portion, shows the presence of from three
to five grains of chlorine to a gallon of water. As this is
tiu' least objectionable we have found I conclude to use
it until we find better, or have rigged some economical
aj)])aratus for distilling. Our coal account calls for one
hundred and eleven tons, and we must economize so
that we shall have enough to work with next season.
If our consumption is too great this winter, we must
work nnder canvas and do without steam next sum-
mer.

Si'pfcmher 14th, Sutifhii/. — At 8.30 we were pleased
at sighting the sled i)arty returning, and at nine we
welcomed them on board. Chipp reports to me that
when about seven miles from the ship he found much
lighter ice than the ice-field we are now in, it being com-
posed of floe pieces cemented together by .young ice, in
many places just strong enough to bear the weight of

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DKIF'IING IN K 10 OFF IIKUALI) ISLAND.

1:^5

the tslotlge and party. At ten miles troni the ship he
came to a hroad lead, one hall" mile wide, extending E.
and W. as far as eye could reach, with open lanes ex-
tending in S. E., S., and S. W. directions. Here the
ice was ditl'eront again, showing evidences of severe
])ressure. Tint old Hoes were closer together, and the
young ice was broken and forced up into ridges of eight
to twelve feet in height. He followed the edge of this
lead to the westward a mile or so, when it turned up to
the N. W., with an edge of soft and rotten ice. The
ice iiround Herald Island appeared to be rotten and cut
up with leads. The point of view was about fifteen
miles from the ship and five miles from the island.
The shore was high and rocky, apparently cut in deep
ridges, running down the face of nearly perpendicular
sides. He saw no place that would oiler any protection
to a ship. He saw no drift-wood, but sighted many
bear-tracks, and one raven, and one young seal Avhich
Alexey shot and brought to the ship. There seems to
be but one way out of our situation. A heavy gale is
wanted to break up this Held of ice we are in, and to
give us a chance to make our way toward the land
which we saw beyond Herald Island. Failing this we
must winter in the pack. Herald Island will bo of no
use to us, even if we could get to it ; but we daily seem
to be increasing our distance fi'om it by drifting to the
N. W. We must hope for observations to give us our
]H)sition to determine whether we have actually moved
or not. At 10.30 a. m. inspected the ship and held di-
vine service.

September 15th, Jlondai/. — Mr. Danenhower suc-
ceeded to-day in determining our position by observa-
tion. We were at noon in latitude 71" 46' N., longitude
175" 36' W., and comparing this position with that of

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IIIK VOVACK OF TIIK .IKAWKT'IK.

the Dtli iiist., we havi' cliiiiiL'tMl (ii'tc'eii inilr,< to N. 40"
W.,«)r{it tlic! rate of two and a liall" miles a day. Even
at this rate, il" we eontinue, we may icaeli Kellett Land
or its continuation before spring. Tliis is of course but
a faint consolation, but it seems our only one, for from
tlie mast-head we can .see nothing but a held of ice. If
there i.s a contiiniou.s current in this part t>f the world,
we .shall i)robably test it by our drift this winti-r, and
perhaps drift toward some new land, a.s did Weyprecht
and I'ayer, in the Tegetthof. As to making any prog-
ress with the ship by our own efforts, I see no chance;
and it looks as if it would take an earth(|uake at least
to get us out of our besetment. However, " the dark-
est hour is just before the dawn," and our dawn may
be soon coming.

To prevent the water from freezing in the boilers
and l)ursting the tul)es and ]Mpes, we to-day emptied
them, broke .joints, and drained all pipes. If 1 were
certiiin of staving here all winter, there is niucli more
I should like to do. Our decks are so fearfully lum-
bered np iis to be a sure preventive to our keeping in
order. To put up our deck-house, the steam-cutter and
spare rudder should be removed. But whore shall they
be put '.' If we place them on the ice wo may lose them
in a I)reak-up, if a break-up comes, and wo certainly
have no place for them on board ship. I suppose, how-
ever, they and many other things must take their
chances on the Hoe this winter.

Both of our wounded dogs are improving, and, hav-
ing discharged themselves front the bridge hospital,
liavo gone to their brethren on the ice. Our bridge
has answered several purposes thus far for which it was
not constructed ; for Alexey and Anegnin, being over-
come by the heat of the berth-deck stove, have rigged

ii«i»tf ini iiMiiKi»«»«miim m

DiMFTixc; IN UK oFi" iii;i;ai,ij island.

127

n tout-like covering over tLo port liall' ol' tin: bridge,
uiiil moved in. To-diiy we feasted in the cabin on
the young seal which Alexey shot, iiiid we uniiniinoiisly
pronounced it equal to rabbit. We have again set our
bear-trap, baited with seal's entrails, and have placed it
so far from the ship that we hope the dog.s may not
iind it.

Seals

September liUh, Titesdai/. — The day opens and con-
tinues with a light, southerly breeze ; the temperature
is from 20'' to .')0°. During the morning watch land
was distinctly seen bearing from W. by S. to S. (both
true). However we may be drifting, we .ire certainly
getting more land in our horizon than formerly, and
Herald Island is beginning to lose some of tliat distinct-
ness which made us declare at first that it was only five
miles distant. It is only on rare occasions that we see
this far off land, and it is impo.ssible to estimate how
far off it is. If Herald Island, which we estimated

— ♦w»»^

( >

i I'

^ :i?r

i!i» i

128

iiiE voya(;k of Til.': .ikanniotte.

orii:;inally at five miles distimoo. proved to be l)ctweGn
twenty and twenty - (ive. land which we estimate at
sixty miles would prove to be, — I do not care to haz-
ard a guess. At twelve we were able to dttermiiie our
latitude to be 71° 4U' N. We wore unable to get sights
for longitude owing to cloudy sky in forenoon and af-
ternoon, so we know only tiiat we have gone to the
northwaid four miles in one da v.

In the hope of securing better drinking water for
our use Melville has placed in the water kettles on the
cabin and forecastle stoves a ground tier of charcoal.
It is an experiment to be sure, for we cannot hope that
the charcoal will al)sorb .-alt.

September 17th, Wednescfai/. — A most exciting day.
Early in the morning Lieutenant Chipp and Mr. Dim-
bar went out to have a look at the bear-trap, and they
came ba<'k at nine to inform me that a bear had evi-
dently been caught in the trap, and had succeeded in
breaking it away from the ice and carrying it off with
him. Adding Melville to the pai'ty we at once set out
in pursuit, lleaching the })lace where the trap had
been set. one mile from the ship, we had no didiculty
in (inding the bear's tracks and following his trail, for
the trap made a broad mark, easy enough to trace,
even if the drops of blood had not been sullicicnt. We
saw also the tracks of two other bears, one on each side
of the entraj)ped one, as if two friends had renuiined
by him to encourage him iu his retreat. We had a
long tramp of nearly six miles in the chase, lieing
somewhat heavily clad and suffering from the heat 1
had falK'u a little behind the others, when I heard a
bear howling as if in pain. 1 ran forward, but the
others had already sighted the game and opened (ire,
and I readied the scene of action ii time only to

S#><iwr

DKUTING IN ICE OFF IIEUALD I>^LAN1).

129

they

give ihe coup de (jrace to the hear enttiiigkMl with the
tnip.

InstciuT of three hears there were but two, a male
ami a female. The male had only one toe of the left
forefoot caught, and yet had managed to break the
trap adrift and carry it away without dragging his toe
off. He might have left lis to make a longer chane
had not the chain caught between two small hunnuocks
and anchored him. The female made no attempt to
desert him, but ran ahead and hack to him as if to coax
him on. Upou sighting us both rose on their hind legs
and howled dolefully, but the thing was soon over.
Chipp and Dunbar with Winchesters, and Melville with
his Kemington, left me only a finishing shot at one bear.

Hoping that we might get a sight of the third bear
whose tracks we had seen, Melville and I remained
with the dead, Avhile Chipp and Dunbar returned to
the ship to send out men and sleds to carry back the
prize. They left us at 11.30 and reached the ship at
12.45. At 2.25 three sleds came out to us, and nearly
all hands accompanied them, the aftern(>ou being turned
into a holiday for the crev. Wi' quickly rigged \\\^
sheers and weighed our bears. The male weighed 580
lbs. and the female 422 lbs. Next we had the two
bears photographed by Mr. Collins, and then they were
skinned, cut open and dressed, and the meat and skins
loaded on two sleds, our beam scale, sheer legs, and
photographic gear occupying the third. While on the
ground Mr. Newcomb shot several ivory gulls and
added them to his collection. We set both of our hear-
traps, baiting them with baars' entrails, and after catch-
ing a man (Mrnson) pnnnptly in one of them, without
ac(ndent fortunately, v/e set out at 4.10 p. m. on our re-
turn journey, reaching the ship at 5.25, after a drag of

u .'

1
1

Ir (

! .

iV '

i'^ , 'i

lib K,

fsr

^■' i U

lit

.1^

130

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

three and a half miles, all hands jubilant and happ}'^ as
after a victorj^ This is a long article about two small
bears, but they were our first, and our enthusiasm is
pardonable.

Danenhower had excellent chances to get observa-
tions to-day, and he establishes our position to be lat.
7r 50' N., long. 175° 25' W., and our drift in the last
two days seven miles to N. E. by E. and a quarter E.
Soundings at noon in thirty - five and three fourths
fathoms blue mud. At sunset the weather had an ugly,
threatening look.

September ISth, Thursday. — The day opens with a
fresh breeze from 8. E. which gathers strength, and
the temperature rises from 30° to 35°. The eft'ect rpon
the surface of the ice is to make a great deal of sludge
and several small pools and ponds. No perceptible
change in our position, but I have no doubt the ice is
moving to the N. W., and carrying us with it. If this
weather continues there may come a liberation for us,
" a consunuiiution devoutly to be wished."

The ice is proving too salty for cooking and drinking
purposes, and we have fallen back upon melted snow.
Occupied the men to-day in altering and lengthening
our sleeping bags, which are too short and too cramped
at the feet. Soundings at noon in thirty-six fathoms
blue mud. Bring in our bear-traps lest we should lose
them by the ice breaking up.

September 19/'/;, Frlduij. — The S. E. Ijlow of yester-
day continues throughout the night until noon, when
the wind backs to E. S. E. and moderates. The bar-
ometer slowly falls to 29.55 and there stops. The
weather all day is ovei'cast and misty, with passing
showers of rain. The temperature remains uniforndy
at 33' and 34°. At 8.30 a. m. Herald Island bears south

DKIFTIXG IN ICE OFF HERALD ISLAND.

131

jter-
Ihen

gar-
lic

|ing:

luth

(true), and is very distant. The changes in appearance
of this i.sland have been slowly panoramic. We have
crossed its face from east to west until its western end
bore south, and have then steadily drifted away from
it to the northward, so that from a panoramic view we
have come to a dissolving view.

SejJtember 20th, Saturday. — The doctor informs me
this morning that he has made during the night ex-
periments on the berth deck, to determine the amount
of carbonic acid while the men were asleep and breath-
ing the atmosphere of the deck. The experiments
"were made with what is known as the " wet jar," and
the result was as follows : In every thousand vol-
umes of air there were two and thirty-two hundredths
(2.324:6) volumes of carbonic acid, which, reduced to a
percentage, shows .23246 per cent. The records of the
expedition of th(> Alert and Discovery show .436 per
cent, on the berth deck of the Alert on February 29,
1876, and .482 per cent, in the ward-room on Jan-
uary 18, 1879, both observations being made under the
very worst circumstances of housing and confinement.
While, t'.orefore, our showing is a very favorable one
in comparison, still it is a bad one, for we are only in
September, with a temperature mild enough to leave
open every access to the fresh air.

To experiment still ii;r<^her in this matter, and to
prevent the willful or accidental closing of any doors
or the sky-light of the berth deck, and to endeavor to
prevent any serious amount of carbonic acid in the
ward-roo!n and cabin, I issued to-day orders in regard
to the ventilati(ni of these apartments. While these
orders are being carwed into effect, experiments will
determine their efficiency in accouiplishing the desired
result.

y «

!■]

132

THE voyagp: of the jeanxette.

The measurements taken by the doctor to deterniine
the cubic air space per capita show that we are defi-
cient in that respect also. The berth deck is only 7S
cubic feet, the ward-room 180, the cabin rooms 333,
and the entire cubic air space of the cabin amounts to
1,500 feet. In the Alert the cubic air space per man
was 107, and in the Discovery 140. The comparison
is ogain unfavorable. The cubic air space will be in-
crea,;ed for the men when we come to build our deck-
house, and 1 hope the carbonic acid gas will largely
disappear in that edifice.

All these things, and the disappointment at having
accomplished so little the first season, give me enough
to think about. There is nothing, however, but pa-
tience and earnest effort to improve matters that will
avail me anything, and to these two things I must
devote myself.

The result of the S. E. blow and the mild tempera-
ture has been to open lanes in our innnediate neighbor-
hood, but none of them are of any great extent, and
the heavy pack shows across the openings which are
noc more than fifty feet wide. If we were not securely
held between two fioes, I would move into one of these
leads, even if we advanced only half a mile. (We
would have moved at all events and have broken the
monotony.) But we are securely held as in a vice,
and heeling 5" to starboard. Soundings at noon in
forty fathoms blue mud. We are now increasing our
depth as we increase our distance from Herald Island.
Brought up some new specimens with the dredge.

/Scpte7nher 21st, Sunday. — At the usual Sunday in-
spection held by me to-day, I concluded to make some
changes in the internal arrangements of the berth deck.
The order of yesterday about keeping the doors open

DRIFTING IX ICE OFF IIEUALD ISLAND.

133

leading from the old galloy-room to the berth deck
must be modified, as the cold is too great at night and
causes the men to complain sadly. We therefore bored
sixteen Is inch holes in the lower panel of each door,
which I hope will insure a proper supply of fresh air.

Nindemann has up to this time occupied a cot hung
in the old galley-room. In order to move him into the
forecastle, 1 order a man transferred from one of the
after berths to one of the vacant forAvard ones. This
brings the transferred man too near the stove, which is
in the eyes of the ship, and we must move the stove to
the middle of the berth deck and carry the mess table
forward. These additions to the carpenter work of the
ship necessitate taking Nindcmann off watch and add-
ing him to the carpenter gang. During past week the
engineer's force has been employed in scaling and
cleaning the port boiler, and overhauling and laying
up the engines. The coal return for the past week is
as follows : —

Galley . .
Cabin . .
Berth Deck

Total, .

1,000 lbs. = daily average, 1425 lbs.
;)()0 lbs. = daily average, 51? lbs.
440 lbs. = daily average, 62s lbs.

. 1,S00 lbs. = daily average, 2i)l\ lbs.
Amount of coal remaining on hand, . llOisJi] tons.

As coal is the most precious article which we have on
board ship, its economical use is a matter of paramount
importance. To l)ring about the utmost economy, I
have concluded to put the whole affair in the charge
of Chief Engineer Melville, and to give him entire cog-
nizance of all stoves, the galley, and the issue and ex-
penditure of fuel. I have therefore given him a writ-
ten order to that effect.

At 10.30 A. M. perform divine service. At noon we

ifi

«•* .;

hr.

134

THE V()YA(;K of I'IIE jkannette.

obtain our position by observation, — latitude 72° 10'
2;r' N., longitude 175°* 20/ 22" W., — and from this po-
sition we establish the fact that in four days "we l^ive
drifted twenty miles to the north, one degree west, or
at tlie rate of live miles a day. Herald Island is al-
most a thing of the past. It is now but a small patch
in the horizon, difficult to separate from the interven-
ing hummocks. From ten to eleven p. m. have a fine
aurora. The ship still altering her heading in the last
twenty-four hours from S. W. and h S. to W. by N.,
both magnetic.

September 2ith, Weihiesday. — At two A. M. the ther-
mometer registered 7 ,, our lowest thus far, and the
temperature gradually rose until at noon it reached 24°,
and remained nearly the same to close of day. Ob-
tained to-day longitude only, — 175" 21' W., — show-
ing a drift of seven miles to the east in two days.

This drift of oiu-s is in no sense uniform or capable of
being foreseen. It does not depend seemingly upon the
wind, for it is different with the same winds at different
times. That even light winds occasion drift and press-
ure is evident from the fact that the ice about a mile
from the ship in all directions is constantly assuming
new shapes. We seem to be held in the centre of a
large floe, sufficiently strong to save a severe nip to the
ship and to resist pressure on its edges. A mile from
the ship in any direction new ice six inches thick is
piled up in tables from six to twenty feet in height by
the coming together of floes. One day we find large
spaces of water, the next day w^e find the spaces nar-
rowing, and the third day the spaces are closed and
slabs of new ice six inches thick are piled up on end
like a confused fence six, twelve, and eighteen feet
high. We seem to move only in azimuth, remaining

DUIFTING TN ICE OFF HERALD ISLAND.

135

heeled over to starboard 5^ Our Hoe suffers no jar
even, and immediately around the ship the conditions
of ice do not change, except as snow-falls level all the
projecting surfaces.

An occasional gull is all that we see, and each day
the number seen diminishes. Occasionally a seal ap-
pears in an open pool, and is fired at without success.
According to Alexey, a seal hit in a bone will sink or
die under tiie ice, — an explanation for several hits
failing to secure the seals struck. The experiment for
carbonic acid on the berth deck since the boring of the
auger holes in the door and the moving of the berth
deck stove show an improvement. Last night's figures
give 1.8012 volumes of carbonic acid per one thousand
volumes of air, or .18012 per cent.

September 2bth, llmrsday. — At 1.50 a. m. a very
curious electric phenomenon was observed. A ball of
electric light formed about one quarter mile from the
ship on the surface of the floe (in size about that of " a
barrel," according to Mr. Dunbar), throwing out rays in
all directions, and slowly rose and worked away from
the ship, decreasing in size and brilliancy. When al-
most extinct it advanced again, increasing in brilliancy,
and, descending to the floe, disappeared. This oc-
curred twice in seven minutes. The appearance of the
electric ball was preceded by a fine aurora. Unfortu-
nately Mr. Dunbar, who had the watch, did not call me
to see tins extraordinary occurrence. Mr. Collins was
called, but before he came on deck the display was
over. The foregoing is made from Mr. Dunbar's de-
scription.

At 5.40 p. M. land is sighted bearing S. by W. and i
W. true ; and although mirage has distorted its outline
into an unknown and unrecognized shape, I am quite

136

THE VOYAGE OF I'llE JEANNETTE.

E \l

sure it must be Herald Island. All sign of bird life
seems to be gone. On rare occasions a gull is seen, but
only in tiie neighborhood of a Avater-hole, and these
water-holes are growing extremely rare. One bear-
track was sighted this afternoon to our satisfaction, for
we had begun to fear that bears too had disappeared
with the birds. Not a bear-track has been seen save
this one since our capture of the 17th inst.

September 2Sth, Sunday. — Snowing pretty much all
day. At ten a. m. inspected ship and had divine service.
In the afternoon Mr. Newcomb and Alexey shot two
female walruses about two and one half miles from the
ship, weighing about one thousand pounds each. Sent
out the dogs and dragged them in, one after the other,
gaining a valuable addition to our dog food. One of
the females Avas with young, and I have directed Mr.
Newcomb to save the foetus. He will also save the skin
of one in order to mount it on our return, and the head
of the other for mounting on board ship. The wisdom
of having one officer look out for our fuel is evident.
The coal report shows a saving of three hundred and
seventy-five pounds in the past week.

September oOth, Tuesdai/. — The month ends with a
full moon, but beyond an occasional view of it through
drifting snow it has not been of much comfort. It
makes Init little difference, however, because we have
so much sunlight that we can be very independent ; but
I sup]iose the time will soon come when we shall con-
sider the moon our best friend, and watch anxiously for
her advent.

Our drift since last o1)servation (26th inst.) has been
five miles S. W. by W. We seem to swing around a
kind of an irregular triangle, independent somewhat of
local circumstances of wind or current. After our first

DRIFTING IN ICE OFF IIEUALD ISLAND.

137

besetment we had a positive drift to the northward, and
then an equally positive drift to the eastward ( making
two sides of the triangle), jind now we seoni to begin
the third side leading baek to the beginning. Either
we are in a kind of dead-water back of a current, or
the floe in which we are caught is loose among a lot of
surrounding fields of ice, and we carom from one to the
other. On our clearest days we can see no land, else 1
might hope that we had drifted into a pocket between
two islands or two continents, and might probably re-
main thereabouts until spring.

The meteorological observations have shown several
times of late that the water at the bottom has been
from one and one half to two degrees colder than at
fifteen fathoms, and the water less dense. Mr. Collins
argues from this the existence of a warm current at
fifteen fathoms, but imtil the change in temperatures
is more decided I shall withhold my acquiescence in
that opinion.

In order to have an exact estimate of the amount of
food consumed by the crew and officers, and to place it
upon record in case of any in([uiry hereafter, I have
caused an exact account to be kept of the meals for the
past week, and will enter it here. The food here men-
tioned has been served out regularly since leaving San
Francisco (with the exception, of course, of bear mea^,
and in its absence some preserved meat has been sup-
plied), and the bill of fare for one week will serve as an
index to the whole. We have still a large quantity of
fresh potatoes, and a small quantity of fresh carrots and
onions, so that for some time we shall not be down to
our strict ration table. When all our fresh vegetables
are gone, another week's iriesils will be entered as a
sample. We keep our vegetables from freezing by
stowins: them in a coal bunker.

^i'

^^!

'(I

> !i \

138

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

»l

i\.

\th

111. ■

•i'i'

'Vl

r.ILLS OF FARE FOR PRECEDING WEEK.

Artioloa marked with iin X were given to oIHcits' moss only. Pepper,
salt, mi)liisses, vine<;ar, mustard, and saiiees not mentioned.

Wednesday, Septemher 24, 1879.
BREAKFAST.

Reof
Potatoes
Fresli Hiead
Hiittcr
Coilee .
Sugar

DINNER.

Povk

• • •

Beans

•

Tomatoes

l*otatoes

1 •

Pick 1 OS .

Flour for Duff ,

Raisins .

Havel Biead

•

SUPPER.

Bear Meat

. .

Peacli Butter

Green Gages X

Potatoes .

Tea

• •

Sugar

. .

Butter .

• • •

Freph Bread

8 lbs.
20
11

O 1

-Iff

45t\

33 lbs.
16
10
5

-'A
10

99^

18 lbs.

O 1

-Tff

O I

ooV^

Total number, 33 ; total weight, 200f'V ; average per man,
G lbs. 1 oz.

DRIFTING IN ICE OFF IIKKALI) ISLAND.

Tliursihti/, Sf'ptrmher 25fJi.

139

Iladflook X

IlIMCAKFAST.

Corn Bread X

l*ork

* • ■

Potatoes

• • V

Coffee .

Sugar .
Milk

* ■ •

Bread .
Butter

•

Bear Meat
Soup
Pork
Corn

Potatoes .
Hard Bread

Mutton .
Ham X
Potatoes .
Peach ]iiitter X
Dried Apples .
Butter .

DINNER.

SUPPER.

Sugar
lea
Milk
Bread

Total number, 33 ; total weight, 178j^

4 11)3.

7
15

H
h
15

O I

-TiT

G3lij

24 lbs.

4
12
12

7h lbs.
3
12

2tV

5i lbs

average per man,

; ■

140

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Friday^ September 26th.

IIKKAKFAST.

,iii.

«1

I .■

iHn

V.' '

'I ■ i

Codfish .

12 lbs.

]\Iiickerel X

Hoiiiiuy .

Potatoes

If)

Bread

Sugar ,

'5Vir

C'ofToe

Butter .

Milk

Hiii

DINNER.

Salt Beef .

32 lbs.

Tomatoes

Potatoes .

Hard Bread

Flour

Pumpkin X

Lard

Sugar .

Milk

Split Peas

Bacon

SUPPER.

•J

Bear Meat

18 Iby.

Potatoes

If)

Prunes

;")

Bread .

Tea

Sugar .

3f^

Milk

Butter .

Total number, 33; total weight, 193t<^ ; average per man,
5 lbs. 13 oz.

DRIFTING IN ICE OFF IIEIIALIJ ISLAND.

iSaturdai/, September '11th.

Beef

Potatoes
Sugar
Milk .
Cotleo
Butter .
Bread

Beet' Soup
Mutton .
Macaroni .
Tomatoes
Cheese
Pouit es
Havu Bread

Beef .

Kidneys X

Potatoes .

Quince Butter

Bread

Tea

Sugar

Milk .

Butter

nUKAKFAHT.

DIN.^iER.

SDTPEE.

8 lbs.
20

12 lbs.
15
4

10
10

8 lbs.

2
15

5
15

Iff

Total number, 33 ; total weight, 158|^f ; average per man,
4 lbs. 12§ oz

142 THE VOYAGE O.^ THE JEANNETTE.

Sundai/, September 28th.

BREAliTAST.

Beef

• • • •

8 lbs.

Oat Meal

Potatoes .

. . • •

. 15

Bread .

Sugar

• * • •

. 4,V

Coffee ,

4r^

Butter

> « • •

Milk .

DINNER.

491*

Ox-Tail Soup .

•

. 12 lbs.

Roast Bear .

Pork

• • • •

String Beans

Potatoes .

< . » .

. 10

Beets

Jelly

Hard Bread .

• • • • •

Raisins

•

Flour (Duff)

SUPPER.

Mutton

8 lbs.

Potatoes

Damsons .

* . • •

Pears X

Flour

• - > «

Yeast Powder

Ginger

• • • •

Bread

• . • • •

Sugar

■ • # d

Tea

Milk

• * • •

Butter .

59V5

J)11IFTING IN ICE OFF HERALD JSLAND.

143

Total miiuber, 33; total weight, 107|if ; average per man,
6 lbs.

3Io7ida;/, /September 29th.

r.KEAJvKAST.

Beef

Mutton

Bread

Sugar
Butter
Coffee ,
Milk

Potatoes

Mutton Broth
Roast Beef
Tomatoes
Okra .
Potatoes .
Hard Bread .

DINNEU

6 lbs.

4i1r

1
5

12 lbs.
14

4
15

SUPPKR.

Beai- Steak

Potatoes

Bread

• • • • •
• • • •

. 20 lbs

15
. 15

Sugar .
Butler
Milk .
Tea .
Dried Apple

• • • • •

• • a • ■
• • • •

• • • • •

4tV
1

h
1

Olvt

Total number, 33; total weight, 101| ; average per man,
4 lbs. 14 oz.

144

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

fi .

I*, if

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V[:

Tuesday^ September 30^A.

IJREARFAST.

Bacon
Hominy
Potatoes
J i read .
(^ollee
15 utter .
Sugar
Milk .

Beef Soup
lioast Bear .
Pork
Potatoes
Hard Bread
Onions .
(iooseberrios X
hard
Flour

Beef

Potatoes
Bread
Touguo X
Tea .
Sugar .
Milk
Duck X .

DINNER.

SrPPER.

• •

• • •

I •

• •

13 lbs.
7

15
10

1
4 >

65^

12 lbs.
2G

4
lo

8 lbs.
15
35

4,\,
1

1.'.

'Q 1

Total number, 33 ; total weight, ITli'jj ; average per man,
6 lbs. 3 oz.

DlllFTlNU IN ICE OFF HERALD ISLAND.

145

DAILY ROUTIXE.

4 A. M

0.30

7.30

8.30

Wash clotlii's.
Execute iiioni-

11.30

11.45
12 m.

12.30 p. M.
I

5.30

September Gth to September '2\st.

Call ship's cook.

Cnll all hands. Coifee.

iurn to. Clean decks.
Break ice in lire-hole,
ing orders.

One watch to breakfast.

Other watch to breakfast.

Turn to. All liands on deck when any
particular work to be done, otherwise
one watch only.

Report berth deck ready for inspection.

During forenoon the watch to provide ice
or snow for making water, and attend to
general work.

Soundings. Water temperatures at bottom
and every fifteen fathoms, etc. Calcula-
tion of sea densities jit same depths.

Lower dredge through iire-hole.

Watch below to dinner.

IJelieve watches and other watch to dinner.

Turn to all hands, or one watch at work if
necessary.

Haul up dredge ; examine and bottle con-
tents.

Relieve watch.

Watch below to supper.

Relieve watch ; other watch to supper.
Watch peel vegetables. Collect all buck-
ets and put them on quarter-deck near
fire-hole.

■Si

I':

■ 'in
1

^•:

146

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

8 P. M. Out galley fire ; boatswain and carpenter

report. Set anchor ('.') watch of one
man : watch lasting two hours.

9 Put out berth-deck lanii).

P'roin September 22d to oUtli the routine was changed
to the following extent : —
7 A. M. Call all hands, ship's cook being called at
5 A. M.
One watch do the work before breakfast.
G.30 p. M. Out galley lire.
7 Boatswain and carpenter report.

CHAPTER V.

FAST IX TIIR ICE.

Ortohi'r — November, 1879.

Keappoamnce of Ilorald Island. — Condition of tlie Quarters. — Ross's
(iull. — ^loisturc between Decks. — Xeu- Land in Sigi.t. — AVinter
Routine.— A Heuutiful Xiglu. — Doctor Anihler's Dream. — Cracics

in the Ice, — Tiie Noises of Ice Cracli

\nii

- Tile Grinding. — CI

ear

Water on the Port Side. — Necessity and Anxiety. — The Do-r.s. —
Disappearance c.^' tlie Suu.— Adrift from the Floe.— Distilled
Water. — Arctic LJeauty.

OcTOBEK 1st, Wednesday.— The day opened cloudy
and snowing, with a still east northeast breeze, and
a generally nnsettled look about the weather, which
promised a blow. For the n.-st three hours the ane-
nionietei' indicated a velocity of fourteen miles an hour,
and the fourth hour it had increased to twenty-one'
nules an hour. It remained near this velocity until
SIX p. M., when it increased to twenty-seven miles, and
reached its maximum at eight v. m.. of twenty-eight
miles. From that time until the da.>' ended it averaged
twenty-four miles an hour, the wind since noon havhicr
.jacked to N. K and N. true. Though ihe gale wa"
froni the northward and eastward, it was not accom-
panied by any low temperature particularly, the liioh-
est being 20= and the lowest 11^ It may be that there
18 open water to the northward of us of a WM'in teiu-
peruture, and the wind blowing over it has had the chill
taken off it before reaching us. The gale was accom-

' *

jiB

■X

r^SHl

I^^B

(■

) 3§

■

148

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

panied with consi(k'rable snow, in perfect squalls, blow-
ing like dust into evorv crevice and choking it u[).
While out for exercise it was next to impossible to see
through the snow, and our tracks were Idled as soon
as made. Everything was one blinding mass of snow-
dust.

October 2(1, llmrKtUnj. — Went out in the afternoon
to see the result of the gale. To the northward of n.s
there was quite a space of open water, extending about
three miles east and west and one half mile in width.
Across the opening, ice could be seen in pack, and the
floe, in which the ship was fast, seemed to l)e moving
past it to the S. E. To the southward and eastward of
us the same extent of open water was visible, and the
surface of our lloe was solt and mushy, making us sink
frequently to the ankles.

October od, Friday. — Soundings at noon in 24^
fathoms blue mud and dark gravel. The dredge
brought up some delicate Avhite coral. This is a very
interesting circumstance, for, unless this has been carried
liere by the warm waters of the Kiu'osiwo current, its
presence can be accounted for only by natural growth,
and 1 have never heard of coral forming in such cold
waters as those we Jire now in.

To our great surprise. Herald Island was in plain
sight this morning, bearing S. S. E. (true), and distant
probably thirty miles. We have drifted to the 8. AV. of
our last position, therefore, about thirty miles, or at the
rate of ten miles a da3'. My remark about our drift-
ing on the third side of the triangle is verified fully.
Whether there is heavy ice impinging on land to the
northward of us, wdiich keeps our ice-field from advanc-
ing (in fact, caroms it back), or whether there is a
regular S. W. current, I cannot yet say ; but it looks

FAST IN THE ICE.

14 'J

now .IS if we were in a fair way to drift down between
Herald Island and Kellett Land. In this case we may
have some land near to ns when the ice closes together
and becomes iimnovablc to a. certain extent, and we
mav yet li.'vc the honor of beiiiijr the first to land on
this already discovered but yet unexplored shore.

At three p. m. we were startled into activity by the re-
port of " A bear on the ice dlose to the ship ! " Five or six
oi" us immediately went in pursuit, spreading out to in-
close the bear should he allow it. He had a long start,
however, and most of us gave np the chase after a mile or
two. Mr. Newcomb, Aneguin, and Alexey kept on, and
at 5.20 Aneguin came back with the pleasant news that
the bear had been overtaken and killed. Melville and
I took a couple of sleds and teams and some men, and
brought back the prize — a female bear, weighing, 1
should judge, about 500 pounds. The captors had
already skinned and cut up the carcass, so we could not
weitj:h it. This makes a valuidjle addition to our larder.
The skin was nicely taken off with the head attached,
and will no doubt be in good condition to be mounted
hereafter.

October Kith, Sunday. — At ten a. m. read the Articles
for the Government of the Navy, and mustered the crew.
Everybody seemed in excellent health and spirits, and
nothing disheartened by our being thus early beset and
the almost absolute certainty of our wintering in the
pack. The forecastle was dry, warui, and comfortable.
Not a sign of moisture was to be found, except a trifle
coming from the rods of the deadlights, and this was
received and retained in the drip pans placed mider
them. The cook-house on deck was neat and clean.
All the internal arrangements of lockers, water cans,
and boxes being complete, the galley was as orderly as

150

TIIK VOYAdE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ji private kitchen. The two berths for .steward and
eook were neatly curtained ofF, and it would require a
critical examination to reveal the fact that these two
• men .slept there. The engine-room and shaft alley were
clean and dry. The starboard boiler luis been finished
with its overiiauling, and both boilers are now thor-
oughly scaled anil ready for use. Instead of taking
the engine apart for laying up, it has been kept intact ;
and as the engine-.shalt can be discoiniected from the
screw-shaft, the engines can be turned over every day,
moving all parts. The two shafts avo connected by
shoulders and four bolts, two of which are rei)laced as
soon as the engine is turned over, and the other two
are kept ready for inuuediately putting back. During
the coming week the engines will be painted. The ven-
tilation of the ward-room seems improved since the
boring of the holes through into the cabin, and the
keeping of a lighted lamp in the ward-room stove. In
the cabin the air is good enough, except at night, when
the wretched Walton lamp smokes .so as to fdl it.
Melville has made a tin pipe four inches in diameter, per-
forated with hidf-inch holes, and fitted it into the sky-
light cover, and this works well without depriving us
of the light. The frame of the deck-house is all up
and the roof on. Nearly all the siding is in place, and
during the coming week the ends will be closed in, the
inside felted, and the electric engine and generator put
together and tried with walrus blubber.

After inspection held divine service.

The coal account is satisfactory, showing even greater
economy than last week, the fuel burned for heating
and cooking being 1,280 pounds against 1,425 pound.s
consumed last week. Aneguin to-day added a seal to
our provisions.

FAST IN THE ICE.

151

October C)th, Mondai/. — Tlio events ol" the diiy can
be sninnuMl up in ii few words. Mr. Newconih shot 28
ducks, and the observatory was erected on the lloe
about 100 yards I'roni the shi[), and hished down to ice
anchors. The work ot" tlie deck-house is proy-ressinir.

October 1th, y'liesdai/. — At times durinjjj the (hiy a
<j5reat deal of land was in j 'ain sight, the most promi-
nent bearing S. 54' W. (true). It a])peared like a series
ol' high lands sloping to low points, or a chain ol islaiids.
At intervals it would be greatly distorted by mirage,
and again it would stand out hard and [)lain. Clouds
could be seen above it and separated (sleiirly from it.
Towards sunset, when we had a perfectly clear back-
ground, these lumps of land stood out sharply delined
against the sky, and were pronounced land unmistak-
ably by those on board as well as by Melville and my-
self, who were three miles from the ship, on our daily
run with a sledge and dog team. We may have some-
thing ahead of us in the way ot exploration, this win-
ter, after all.

Mr. Newcomb (who is indefatigable in his efforts to
make a good collection of objects of natural history)
added to his collection a '' Ross's (lull," a most valual)le
prize and rare beyond calculation. In all Europe there
is but one (at the Museum in Mainz), and there is no
record of one in the United States.

October ^fh, Wednesda//. — In order to give the
doctor more time to devote to preparing medicines for
sledge journeys, and nj)on his representing that he
thon<>;ht he had more than his share of the meteoro-
logical work, and that he did not get sullicient sleep, I
modified my meteorological order of August 7th so as
to relieve tiu; doctor of observing from eight i\ m. to
midnight, and assigned the first half of that watch

152

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

to Chief Engineer Melville, keeping the lust half my-
self.

October \)th, Thurfuhiy. — The day opened with the
continuation of the easterly blow of yeisterday, and

r sr/—'-.

Ro«i'8 Gull.

:if(

gradually tapered off to a light air, when at noon u
shift to "W. by S. (true) occurred, and a piping up of
another gale, which settled linally in W. S. W. Highest
temperature (with easterly wind) 31°, lowest tempera-
ture (falling with westerly wind) 6i° at midnight. Here
is a curious fact : The weather until ten p. m. Avas snowy,
and at tliat hour it ceased to snow, the stars came out,
and at midnight both moon and stars were visible.
Sounded at noon in 2oh fathoms blue mud, and the
line showed we were drifting rapidly to the eastward
before the westerly gale.

October 10th, Frkhu/. — The curious fact of tem-
perature recorded yesterday is repeated to-day. The
temperature falls to 5?.° with S. W. by W. wind, and
promptly rises to oO^ with 8. E. wind. The harder the
blow the higher the temperature.

October Wth. Saturday. — A stormy day with a
southeasterly gale. At midnight light airs came up
from the northward, and a faint radial display of the

FAST i\ riiK ici:.

153

uurora in the N. W., fioiii wliich 1 anticipate an increase
ot" barometric pressure, and a tall ol" tein[)erature to-
morrow. Durinyj the (lav and until the wind went to
the northward, snow tell. We have not had thus far
any unusually heavy snow-storm, but these high winds
blow the snow that does fall up into drifts, through
which we unexpectedly llounder over knee deep. We
do not seem to be affected, as far as the ship is concerned,
by these high winds; she heels steadily 5" to starboard,
and occasionally changes her head a point either way,
but that is of course due to a motion of the entire tloe
in azimutii. Beyond an occasional trembling as a sud-
den gust strikes her, the ship is as steady as if she were
in a dry dock, shored up; and whatever pressure may
be exerted on the edges of our Hoe, it does not extend
to our position within it. What were leads behind and
ahead of us when we first pushed t!io ship in here have
long since frozen over and have been covered with snow,
and we detect them in high temperatures, say oO\ by
sinking through the snow to the sludgy ice beneath and
seeing water ooze up from its partially thawing surface.
Our lloe drifts around of late to the S. W., and I very
much hope that when these l)lows are over (for when
the barometer rises first from its present low point
28. 77, we must surely look for high winds), and the
air gets clear of driving snow, we shall have a good
view of this land to the southwest of us. An indicated
drift this time to the N. W.

October lith, Tuesday. — During the clearing of the
atmosphere at noon we saw land very distinctly to S. S.
W. (true). As we have had no observations for four
days I cannot speak with certainty when I say that this
land is not Herald Island ; but it had not the now fa-
miliar shape of Herald Island, and extended too far in

'<! a

i»

!' .

I'!;.

;

154

TiiK V()VA(ii: (»K nil; .lEAXNinri:.

azinnith lor that cclchrntcMl spot. TIic air is yot so
iilk'd with snow crystals that j'ii(lgiu<^' of distanoo is out
of the (luostion ; and our view not histinj:; over a lialf
hour, w ith intorvals ol" concivdnuMit, wc })ut olK" guossinj^;
to a more propitious nioniont. Discontinued tho dady
liauling- of tho dredge on account of the small amount
of the proceeds and their sanu'ness. Fired up again
on the Baxter engine, hut Edison's generator failed to
make a light. 1 am afraid this is irretrievahly worth-
less, and our electric light this winter has remained,
not gone, "' where the woodbine twineth." Collins,
however, hopes to niidve it work yet.

Octohcr \o/h, Wv(lncf<ih([i. — Already we are begin-
ning to experience the moisture between decks common
to Arctic ships. Although 1 was careful to have the
cabin lined in England with felt, and the poop deck
covered at Mare Island with three thicknesses of canvas,
the upper thickness painted, my room shows beads of
condensed vapor on every plaidc of the ceiling, and I
suppose it will soon show in other places. I have shut
oil" the after part of the cabin, and thus reduced the
space to be heated. This after part is .so cool that pass-
ing into it from the cabin is like stepping into a cold
bath, but yet it is generally dripping with moisture.
The temperature at which the cabin and berth deck are
kept is .")0^. The ward-room is as yet perfectly dry,
and as it is used for sleeping only I have not considered
it necessary to light a fire in that stove. The berth
deck remains dry and comfortable. Of course there is
dilHculty about proper ventilation and keejiing down
the carlionic acid gas, but 1 am hopeful of being able
to make everything as satisfactory as possible. When-
ever I see a chance to improve matters, I do so. The
deck-house is fmi.shed excepting the felt lining.

TAsr IN Till; i( ]■;

LOO

I liavc grave fears about being able to use tbe deck
lioiisi' iis ii living and sleejjing ])laee for tiie ciTw tliis
winter. 1 am alriiid it Avili b^' loo damp, and, eonsidor-
ing the amount of fuel I can spjue, too cold. We have
stove.s enough, of course, and fuel enough to keep the
!<hip warm all winter, but my great obji'ct is to save fuel,
.so as to have some to steam a little with next summi-r,
and enough to keep life in us next winter. Accordingly,
HU|)posing that the electric light would be a success
(which I have no hojie of now), 1 arranged foi- biu'ning
.seal and walrus blubber as fuel in the Baxter engine,
hoping to get heat from the boiler thereol" to warm the
deck house at the same time light was su|)|)lied. As Edi-
son's generator failed to give electric light, .so did the
boiler fail to give heiit, to any extent. Clothes washed
and hung up in the deck-house were as wet as ever, de-
spite the sheet-iron jacket which ought to have radiateil
heat. The deck-horse acted as a capital condenser for
escaping steam. Failing the electric light, 1 ninst give
lip heat also from this elaborate machine, pnt np two
.stoves in the house, and fit drip pans so that blubber can
be burned in them. We of the human race eat the seal
meat, and the dogs eat the walrus meat, and the blubber
is burned. Consequently, there is no waste.

To insure a proper changing of air on the berth deck
I issne an order to-day to clear it daily from l..'>0 to
4.30 ]'. M., and open all luitclies and doors leading to it.
To occupy the men prolital)l_y during that time, the
watch below is armed with Snyder rille.s and turned out
to hunt for seal and walrus.

October 17ih, Fridai/. — Collins' birthday. Bear
caught in trap, but escaped, leaving a lock of his hair
as a souvenir. Nindemann got a seal, and Aneguin added
another to our larder. We have now seven seals liantr-

1 5r,

TliK VOYAGE (F THE JEANNET'J'E.

It J

ing in the rigging, Avliic'l will in vnrn serve for as many
dinners, while tiieir <nvn blubljei may serve to cook
them.

October \>>fh. Sutimluij. — To our surprise, the cook,
Ah 8ani, came to-day and asked for a gun to " go shoot
a seal." He was furnished with a Snyder ritle and
unmnnition, and he started off quite gayly. In a])out
iu hour he returned, the uiost astonished and startled
Chinaman out ot China. At his first shot the gun had
burst, tearing up the barrel, fortunately near the muz-
zle, so that he received no harm ; but his mental de-
moralization was couiplete. The probability is he let
the muzzle slip in the suow at some time, and the end
of the bore <>ot choked; hence tho bursting.

October 2i)th, Mond((i/. — Highest temperature, 16^;
lowest, 3i, — the lowest recorded thus far.

October 2l.s7, 7)iei<(Ja)/. — The thermometer com-
menced at 4i , aud at noon had fallen to zero for the
first time this cruise. It contiiuied to drop, however,
at eight r. m. standing at mimis lOi" (light W. wind),
whence it connneuced to rise, ending the day at uiiuus
4\ For the first time since the 10th, we have clear and
])leasant weather with bright sunshine. Cur days have
become jiainfuily shorter, the sun setting to-day at 3.45
I'. M. Our views of hiiu have been so rare that we
uiisse;i bim greatly, and even whcu he does come now
his stay is siiort. Between noon and three i*. m. we had a
]>leasant treat, thanks to the clear atmosphere aud the
sun's low altitude. We distinctly saw land agaiu, aud
uulike auy we had seen before. Froui the deck it ap-
peared like three islands, but on u'oing aloft we were
ab'e to discover connecting hind. Tbe whole mav be
one large island with tliree ])eaks. The highest aud
clearest defined peak bore S. 28° W. (true), and may

FAST IN TIIK ICE.

157

be from sixty to one liiindi-od milos distant. By 4.80
the atmospluM-ic relractioii was very considerable, and
it lilted into view a high mountain, saddle [)eaked, and
hearings. 24 W. (true). Along the horizon was a
layer of clouds 1° in elevation, above which the sad-
dle peaks showed clearly.

At seven p. m., with the thermometer at (.'.l ven de-
grees below, our liquid steering compasses froze, and
we removed them to the cabin, placing a boat compass
in tile i]evk house to keep a record by. The effect of
this cold snap is to close up water s})aces like magic.
AVliile out with the dogs this afternoon where had
been open water, I could idmost see it freeze harder
and harder. Temperature, minus S .

OcfoJK')' 22(L Wi'diU'^ddtj. — Chipji and myself iire
beginning to ex})erience the elfeci of cold in our rooi is,
everything kept hanging against the ship's side and
forward bulkhead freezing last to them.

October 2:>/, Thurscku/. — From 8.:;U to 0..^() i-. yi.
had our iirst experience of paraselene, — three mock
moons at right angles to the real moon (owing to the
moon's low altitude the iov -th or lower mock could
not be seen). Around the real moon was also a Inizy
arch.

Ovtoher 'I-if/t, FrUlaij. — To save the men'-; uands
while hauling in the lead-line, we rigged to-day two
standards alongside the fire-hole to support a reel, and
fitted the i-eel with two wooden handles.

Ovtoher 'Ik^th. Saffrrda//. — To-day served out fur
clothinu: to the crew, and i-ot on deck two stoves ready
for putting in deck house. Our stewi^rd, Charles Tong
Sing, is sick since last evening with nausea. 1 liojie and
think it is a slight inchsposition merely. lie is invalua-
ble, and does more work than would tire two men.

: II

'.IS

k'.i

158

THE V()VA(;k of riiK jkaxnhitk.

Wliilt' lit; is sii'k his work is iissiuiumI cia'eiiiilly hv Ah
Siim, the cook, anothi'i' imahiiihlc iiiiin. and hv ])er-
tonns the duties of both olliciM's steward and shi[)'s
cook with the same heiiiu'ii sniik' that used i-. rest ou
th<> (■(iun<euance ol' our (hscharu'ed i'riend Ah See, who
(lescril)e(l his next ol' iciu as Ah Mo. Canton. Cliina.

(h'lithi'i- '2i)f/t. Sii/t(/(ii/. — At ten A. M. hehl the usual
Sunday insj)ection. I was ]jieased to find the berth
deck pertei'tly (U'V and warm. The condensatioiMvhich
lornied on the after l)erths aniidshi[)s. and in the two
rooms opening off the berth deck, has been checked by
fehing. and I sincerely hope that we shall be able to keep
the deck dry and habitable all winter. The forchatcli
opening into the deck house has l)een entirely uncov-
ered, and as a conseipience all air entering the berth
deck is warmed to .some extent before reaching its des-
tination. By my own observation and test there was
last nighl a difference of 2(1 in flic air outside and in-
side the deck hou.se (minus 1(1 . .md plus lO ), and this
without any lire there. All the air that ventilates the
berth deck passe> through the deck house, down the
fiirehatch. and thi'ough the sixteen one inch and a ([uar-
ter holes in each door. Tliis air is n<j;».'m heated by the
stov<' lutil it I'eaches -jd . tud it thew jmsscs otf through
die skylight, \\l.ili is ke|.t open, and -o iar acts as a
peifect uptake. The labin is gt'iierally kept at Od . and
llie wai'd-rooui keeps without (ire in the neighborhood
of U2 . The temperatiu'e of the engine-room is 14 . and
I here is a small amount of frost on the iron. Uiit as
all our bt)iler {)i[>es and tubes are dried out and the en-
gines painted, no deterioration can occur. Iliirhest tem-
perature, minus 10'; lowest, minus J7. Weather clear
and pleasant, and the low temperature is not cared for
in contemplating a bright day. A movement has, how-

.■■,iti

FAST IN TIIK ICK.

151»

ever, taken place in the ice, but whether it is owiiiu; to
:i reduction of teinper.iture or ii rechiction of pressure I
ciuniot siiy. About live hun(h'(Ml Aards aheiul of the
ship is ii crack in the liehl a foot wide, aud extendinu;
in a circuhir direction for half a mile, and live hundred
yards ahead of that a crack six feet wide, and extend-
ing- the same distance or more In both cases the rent
is a neat one; the water coming up within .! foot and
a half of the surface, but raj)idly freezing in this tem-
perature. Our hunters were out immediately in t[uest
of wali'us and st'al. but i)evond seeiug, as they sav, one
walrus and a bear, accomplished nothing.

Held divine service at lU.oU A. M. 1 am ulad to say
that .i> steward's ilhu'ss has proved nothing but a mild
atiaciv '■ nausea, aud has yielded so readily to treat-
ment that he is now around all right again.

Orfohir '2~tJi. Moiifltii/. — Added two seals to oiu" lar-
der. In onh'r to ha\e sleds and provisions I'cady for
an emergencv calling for a hast\' abandonment of the
ship I is.-iu'd an oi'der to-day to ])ut five sleds in pei •
feet traveling order; uiso an ordei' in relation to winter
routine, and bu; ,o co<tk«'d meals eaeh (hiy. Th((
amount o' coal ■ »usinned in the galKy is too great to
lie ke[)t up, wlu'U we consider the additional expendi-
ture riM|uired u the deck house, observator\ . and per-
haps ward-room, and the necessity for our steaming at
least a little during lU'xt spring and sunnner. To ob-
serve carefully the elfect of the winter on us. I also
issued an order to the surgeon in relerencc to nu)nthlv
exanunations of olUcers and men. Discontinue aftei-
this date the taking of sea temperatures and water
densities.

October 28//<, y\(es<l(ii/. — Thanks to a clear sky. thi.s
monung at foin- o'clock Mi-. Daneidiower got excellent

~ CD

fihS

i 1

/• 1

»l^

160

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

.siglits for our position, which ho (letcrniines to be lati-
tude 71 57' N., lont^itude 177' oV W., showhig a gen-
eral (li'il't ot" twenty miles N. E. (true) from our position
of the 21st. At the same time the magnetic variation
was determined 2'-)' E. The sun rose at nine, and im-
mediately thereafter high land was sighted to the S.
8. W. (true), the extremes l)earing respectively S. 10
oO' W., and S. 30" "W., — the highest peak bearing S.
02" W. The whole land seems to be about fifty miles
distant. I believe this to be the north side of the land
seen by Captain Long in 18G7 (Wrangel Land), but I
no longer Ijelieve it to be a continent. It is either
one large island or an archii)elago.

At four V. M. jNIr. Dunbar, who had ])een away with
Alexey, came back with the pleasing inlormation that
thev had shot three walruses. Anxious to get this im-
portant addition to our dog food. Melville, the doctor,
and myself started off with Sliarvell and a dingy on a
sled drawn bv a lieavv team of dou's to secure it. After
a heavy drag over what Dunbar was pleased to call a
mile (but which I think was nearer three) we reached
the Avater, only to ilnd that our three walruses had got
lost iunong the voung ice.

In accordance with the various orders issued yester-
day, the whiter routine, beginning on November 1st,
will l)e as follows : —

(') A. M. Call executive officer.

7 Call shij)'s cook.

8.30 Call all liands.

9 Bi'eakfast by watches.

10 Turn to, clear fire-hole of ice, fdl barrels

with snow, clean u]) decks.

11 Clear forecastle. All hands take exercise

on the ice.

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FAST IX riiK ici-:.

161

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7.30
10

11.30 Inspection by executive officer.
12 ^[. Cfct soundings.
1 p. M. One wiitcli may go l>elow.

Fill barrels with snow. Clear firc-holo of

ice.
Dinner by watches.

Galley lires out. Carpenter and boatswain
report departments to executive officer.
Supper by watches.

Pipe down. Noise and smoking to cease in

forecastle, and all lights to be put out,

except one burner of bulkhead lantern.

Man on Avatch report to the executive.

During the night the anchor watch will examine the

lires and lights every half hour, and see that there is

no danger from (ire. All buckets will be kept on the

starboanl side of the quarter deck, ready for use in

c;ase of tire.

1 think the night one of the most beautiful I have
ever seen. The heavens were cloudless, the moon very
nearly full and shining brightly, and every star twink-
ling ; the air perfectly calm, and not a sound to break
the spell. The ship and her smTOundings made a per-
fect picture. Standing out in bold relief against the blue
sky, every rope and spar with a thick coat of snow and
frost ; sbe was simply a beautiful spectacle. The long
lines of wire reaching lo the tripod and observatory,
round frosted lum[)s here and there where a dog lay
asleep, sleds standing on end against tlui steam-cutter
to make a foreground for the shi[), surrounded with a
bank (rail high) of snow and ice, and in evi'i y direclion
as far as eye could reach u oonl'us(«d, irregular ice-lield,
would have made i picture j«eldom seen.

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102

THE VOYAOK OF TIIK JEANNET'IK.

October 20f/t, Wedncsdaij. — Weather clear and pleas-
ant, and a jierfeotly splendid evening. Full moon, bright
slarlight, and, as the day ended, not a cloud. Land seen
to-day in greater extent than yesterday, and beyond
the then bearings. Mr. Dunl)ar and Alexey started out
early this morning to endeavor to lind the missing wal-
ruses of yesterday. 'I'liey took with them a team of
dogs. On the way one of the dogs (Dandy, or IJiugo)
got out of his harne.s- and escaped, much to the disgust
of the other dogs, who attempted to chase him. Alexey
in his jK'culiar language remarked, " Bom bye, other
dogs him plenty whip" (for his desertion). After hav-
ing failed to secure the walruses, the i)arty returned to
the ship. About a half hour after ihe return, the
quartermaster came to me and reported that 13ingo
had been killed in a light. Alexey's prediction came
true. Though three or four hours had elapsed, the
dogs remembered the circumstance of the desertion,
and linding Bingo at a safe distance from the ship
had pitched into him and chewed him so badly before
Erickson could reach them that he died within ten min-
utes of being carried on board ship, — the first death in
oiu' In'ute associates. We skinned him to have his coat
for future wearing apparel, and his carcass lies frozen
on the deck-house roof for possible food for his mur-
derers.

October oOth, 'J'/uu'sdcd/. — The doctor relates a curi-
ous dream he had last night. He seemed to be accom-
])anying the survivors of Sir John Franklin's last expe-
dition on their iourney to the Great Fish lliver, when
suddenly he changed his base to this ship's cabin, and
began ex])laining to Sir John Franklin there present
some of our articles of outfit, such as Edison's electric
machine, the anemometer, and the telephone. Frank-

FAST IN THE ICE.

163

lin, after listening to tlie explanations and viewing the
articles, tersely remarked, " Your electric nuichine is
not worth a damn, and your anemometer is just the
same." The telephone he seemed to consider a good
thing.

The electric machine, after having received Mel-
ville's attention, had been in hand for some days un-
reeling and reinsulating, and reeling again the wires,
and was now ready for another trial. Steam was ac-
cordingly raised in the Baxter boiler, and the genera-
tor connected ; but though seventy pounds steam was
applied, not a spark even could be obtained, nor a de-
flection in the galvanometer needle. The only eflect
was to fill the deck-house with the fearful smoke of
burning blubber, and to make it dripping wet I'ronr
condensing steam and the shower of rain falling from
the roof. I concluded that time enough luid been lost
in trying to make this machine of use, and I would no
longer keep the finishing of the deck-house in abey-
ance, and henre I ordered the engine struck below into
the old galley-room, and cleaned and painted for laying
by. Our telegraph wires are broken in several places
this morning from their own weight, increased by a
slight amount of frost. We have tried laying them in
the snow, but it has rotted them through and through.
Bare copper wire No. 24 is evidently not the thing.
When we get our first heavy fall of snow 1 shall try
running them again, but 1 begin to fear that Franklin
is right in both his statements. The hunters brought
in three seals to-day as a pleasant thing to contemj)late
after being disgusted with electric experiments, and at
supper to-night we had a new dish offered us, — walrus
sausage, — and a rare good thing it is. Bear, seal, and
walrus are not to be despised, and I agree with Chipp,

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m
lit

164

TiiK V()va(;k 01' I'lir, jkanxki'tk.

\vlio savs that horotof'oro, when he read thai men were
subsistiiij^ on boar niid seal, he hclicvod they Meri> hav-
iiiLT ii hard tiino, hut he will know hc^ttcr in the liitinv.

Octoher olntf Frhldii. — The open water streaks are
a_i>ain elosini:; np, the ice ])iling' up to a height ol" some
ten feet as the Hoes conio t()i;ether. Chipp has observed
that these o[)eiiings oecur at full and ehanj^o of the
moon, and disappear at the time of neap tides, 'riiere
niav be a tidal aetion here, but as wo are drifting'
around with the Hoe there is no chance I'or tidal obser-
vations. The weather has bi^en so thick the last two
days that we ha\'e soon nothinj.^" of the land. If wo
could only drift in near enough to it to land on it and
explore it 1 should feel that we had accomplished some-
thing to keep ns in comitenanco. It is hard that our
first season should thus be passed in idleness.

JVocenihct' isf, ,^uturduij. — Began to-day the winter
routine.

Novemher 2d, Sunday. — Inspected the ship at eleven
A. M. while all hands wove on the ice for exercise. Hav-
ing kept np roaring fires of blubber in the two stoves in
the deck-house since yesterday morning, I was pleased
to find that all the wet clothing had thoroughly dried,
and that the deck-house was dry and comfortable ; in
fact, the temperature ranged between (iO and Tt) at
the forward end, the stoves being in the middle. At
one ]'. M. mustered the crew and read the Articles of
War. At the conclusion of this (joremouv held divine
service.

uVocenihcr or/. Jfondot/. — Discovered this morning a
crack in the ice two hundred yards N. W. of the ship.
It ran in an irregular direction for about one qnarter of
a mile, and was in places nearly twenty feet in width.
The surface of the sides of the opening was but two

FAST IN TIIK K K.

I(i5

I'l'ot nbovo the snrt'iici' ol' the Wiitor, which li.'ul ol' oourse
hc'conie ice. This is bringing' these enicks too near
liomo to be pleiisant, and 1 sincerely hope no nearer
openings will cause us lo be uneasy in our now comfor-
table berth, where we seem as steady as in a (by-dock.
A faint trend)ling of the shi]) in high wind, such as is
now l)lo\ving (at midniglil), is the only unsteadiness
which we have. 'I'he (locator, in olx'dieuce to my order,
connnenced to-day the (to be) monthly examinations of
oflicers and nu'U, beginning with myscdf.

Noi'ciuhcr AUi, TucKdaij. — Carl)()nic acid test, taken
at eleven last niglit on the berth deck, gave 2.;j4o() vol-
nmes per thousand, or l).2o4-]0 per cent. This is tlio
worst we have yet obtainc(L Medical examination con-
tinued and concluded. Until 1 get the surgeon's de-
tailed report 1 cannot record results. In my own case,
the only change I remark is a falling oil' in weight. My
weiglit on sailing from San Francisco was one hundred
and ninety-live ])<)unds, now it is but one hundred and
eighty pounds.

Noi'iDihiT ijth, TJiursday. — A day of extraordinary
interest and some anxiety. At nine A. m. we were dis-
agreeably surprised at finding a large crack in tlie ice
on the starboard r[narter about two hundred yards dis-
tant, a small crack imder and right acn'oss the stern, and
a small crack leading from the stern for a hundred yards
ahead. Although 1 could not account for tliem, 1 saw
no reason to be uneasy, for we have had no high winds
this month, and no pressure had occurred in our vicin-
ity. At four I'. M., however. Collins, wlio had gone on
the usual hourly visit to the observatory and anemome-
ter, came running back announcing that an opening
had occurred in the ice between the ob.servatory and
tripod. We all hurried out and found a large rent, al-

t'.'

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

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Sciences

Corporation

33 WIST MAIN STRUT

WHSTIR.N.Y. MSSO

(716) •72-4503

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160

THE VOYAfiE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

roady lour feet wide and widening, extending parallel
with the ship's length to her starboard quarter, and
thence across her stern, averaging one hundred yards
in distance. We promptly removed the instruments
(anemometer, thermometers, rain-gauge, barometer, and
dip-circle, etc.) to the ship, setting them up ther'\ The
opening kept on widening, new ice forming inuneduitely
on the surface, and by midnight it was some twenty yards
in width. Some premonitory crashes and groans of the
ice added to my anxiety lest some fissures should occur
in our Hoe and make our position serious. But we did
not move an inch, either in our angle of heel (4°) or in
azimuth, and at midnight we have nothing worse to con-
template than an opening one hundred yards oft'.

Dr. Ambler handed me to-day his report of the
medical examination. He considers the examination as
very satisfactory. Of the thirty-three persons on board,
the general condition of twenty-three is pronounced
" excellent," of eight "• good " (1 am among this party).
To my surprise, however, seven say they do not get
enough to eat, or sometimes do not get enough ; of
these seven, four are in tlie cabin mess. Of these four,
two have enough in quantity, but as some things are
not cooked in a shape to their liking they do not eat
the full ration. The remaining two have neither sulh-
cient in (juantity, nor liking for some articles served.

I give the bills of fare and weights of articles of
food (see Appendix D), and 1 believe that both in
quantity and variety it is superior to any previous
Arctic experience. The surgeon expresses his opinion
that it is all that is necessary in both respects. How-
ever, rather than any one should consider himself as
underfed I shall probably increase the rations. If we
could only get a clear day we should probably find our-

FAST IN THE ICK.

ir.7

selves much nearer to land than wo have been here-
tofore.

November 7th, Friday. — During the night the open-
ing closed under seeming great pressure, for at day-
break, say eight a. m., the ic;^ was piled up in great
heaps on the edge of our iioc, which was of suflieient
strength evidently to bear the brunt. The pressure
came from S. S. E., the line of the crack being N. N. E.
and S. S. W. true, and since our lloe was the stronger,
the pressing Hoe rode up on top of it, breaking off, and
leaving its own edges in a muddled pile. The thick-
ness of these edges was by actual measurement 7 feet
10 inches, 6 inches being snow on the surface. Some
of tiie pieces were pea green, or sea green rather, and
some light blue, and in several places siiowed a muddy
and dirty side as if they had been in the mud or had
stranded on a beach.

Not knowing very well what was going to happen. I
watched this ridge with considerable interest. We had
had since midnight a decreasing S. W. wind, but at ten
A. M. it became perfectly calm. About eleven a. m., to
our surprise, the pressing Hoe receded, leaving a space
about ten yards in width from Hoe to Hoe, and through
this the ice began to set to W. and N. as througii a
gorge, with a velocity of about half a nnle an hour. The
])rossure became very great. The smaller pieces passed
on readily enough, but the large huuuuocks or broken
Hoe pieces would occasionally jam against our Hoe, and
))eing pressed from behind by the confused mass would
exert an iuHuence on our Hoe that nuule it groan and
crack and move under our feet. This mass was Howing
not over fifty yards from the ship, then heading east
northea.st, and as it crushed and groaned along, and our
Hoe throbbed and shook with the strain brought u[)()n

:> 1

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,T. .,^ ;,. (L-LU Jl^PffTSIf!

i»;8

THE VOYA(}E OF THE JEANNETTE.

it, I almost momentiirily expected to see the ice split in
Jill directions tiround the ship, und the ship herself be
carried alon<^ with the tundjling heap. Nothing ot" the
kind ha])pened, however, thank God, and about loin- 1'. m.
the motion ceased. The ship had not moved an inch.
Five sledges stood packed on the poop, with forty days'
provisions for men and dogs, but these might have
availed but little. In fact, 1 doubt if they would have
stood the racket of being dragged over rough ice with
their weights. Suspending, therefore, other work, we
conunenced the construction of two strong sleds to
carry our dingys.

Our iloe must have moved ; for to-day we are in
twenty-three fathoms. The openings in the ice ex-
posed so much water to the action of the cold air that
we have had all day a thick fog, highest temperature
plus 3", lowest minus IfP.

NoKonhcr hth, Saturday. — A quiet day and a relief
to the anxiety of yesterday. Still I cannot help feel-
ing more or less imeasy. The line of broken ice is so
near us that I fear we may have sonu trouble at the
next gale of wind. All the commotion of yesterday
occurred with calms or light airs. Had it been at regu-
lar periods, it might have been considered <lue to tidal
action ; but as it occurred only once in the twenty-four
hours that idea must be abandoned. Some resistiny;
field of ice has given way. and the rush was the result.
If we consider that rush accelerated by a gale of wind,
it is not difficidt to realize the peril of a shij) carried
along by it. Drifting .with it might not be so bad, but
the hanging of the ship on an impediment while this
surging and grin<ling mass was pushing against and per-
haps over her would at least not improve the situation.
My fear is, therefore, that if we have a gale of wind be-

FAST I\ THE I( K.

100

fore <all these broken Hoes can beeome cemented t()>j^('tln'r,
the whoK' mass will get in motion aj^ain and our Hoe
may s])lit up. set us adrift, and plenty of trouble be
alu'ad of us. However, we nuistwait and see. Human
foresight is of but little avail. Aid from above is all
that can ])revail, when a sliip is drifting in an ice-tloe.

Sighted high land between S. and S, S. W. for a few
moments about eleven a. m., but too indistinctly to rec-
ognize it as anything we have seen before.

NoKciiiher !()//<, M<m(h(ii. — A large water hole to
the E. S. E. giving oil" vapor upon coming in contact
with colder air. Sounded at noon in 17 1-2 fathoms.
At noon sighted again the land seen on Octt)ber 2Uth
and on the same bearing. At three v. m. grinding and
pressiu'e began again, our tloe this tinui cracking and
breaking up to within one hundred fi'ct of our star-
board beam and (luarter. From eiizht p. m. to midniixht
a line auroral display, beginning with swirling tails
from N. to E., and ending with radiating bands extend-
ing from a central ])oint at \. to X. E. and N. W.

November Wlh, Tnesdai/. — A day of great anxiety.
At (1.10 A. M. 1 was awakened hy the trembling and
creaking of the ship, and almost immediately the man
on watch came in my room to inform me that the ice
was iMTiun in motion. Hastilv tumbling out and dress-
ing I went out on the ice. The grinding and crushing
How of ice to the westward had again commenced, and
the jamming of large pieces froui time to time, splin-
tering our floe, caused breaks and upheavals to within
about .seventy-five feet of the ship. The ship groaned
and creaked at every pressure until I thought the next
would break her adrift. I'he pressure was tremendous,
and the noisti was not calculated to calm one's mind.
1 know of no sound on shore that can l)e compared to

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170

THE VOYAGE OF I'lIK .TEANNETTE.

it. A rumble, .a shriek, a groan, and a crash of a falling
house all combined might serve to convey an idea of
the noise with which this motion of ice-lioes is accom-
pa;ii«'d Great masses, from fifteen to twenty-five feet
in height when up-ended, are sliding along at various
angles of elevation and jam, and between and among
them are large and confused masses of debris, like a
marble yartl adrift. Occasionally, a stoppage occurs ;
some piece has caught against or under our Hoe ; then
occurs a groaning and cracking ; our floe bends and
humps up in places like domes. Crash ! the dome splits,
another yard of Hoe edge breaks ofl*, the pressure is
relieved, and on goes again the Mowing mass of rum-
bles, shrieks, groans, etc., for another spell.

Our performance lasted only for half an hour this
time. At its conclusion 1 was startled to find that a
break hiul occurred in the fioe across the bows of the
ship running towards the southwest, and that a pro-
jecting Hoel)erg was plowing its way like a wedge to
break up the floe ahead of us and make a junction with
the old stream. In this case we should be in the centre
of an island, small at that, whose edges would be worn
away on all sides uiitil we were left alone to be hurried
along in the race. At 4.20 p. m. the excitement began
again, and this time we had it heavily for four hours. I
fully made up my mind that we must go adrift. Hur-
riedly we broke up our temporary observatory near the
ship and took the instruments on board, susponding our
nuiteorological record while graver matters required our
attention. Everything movable was brought in, and
finally the dogs were with great diihculty collected and
brought on board ship, a proceeding which they did not
like, and Avhich they resented by jumping over the rail
on the ice again, until we boarded it up so high they

FAST IN THE ICK.

171

could not clear it, and then they relieved their minds
hy li<;hts ainonj^ tliemselves.

This movement ot" the ice hegins to make im* bflicve
it is a tidal iiction of some kind, although it Hows in
but one ■way — to the westward. Fearing another rush
during the night, 1 ordered everybody to hold himsell'
in readiness lor immediate action, sleeping myself with
my clothes on and knapsack handy in case of accident.
As is usual nearlv every dav we had light, drift iniz:
snow.

Noi'einher Vltit, Wcdnesdai/. — At 4.15 a. m. Mr. New-
coml), who sat up until this hour, roused me with the
information that the ice was again in motion. Rushed
out on deck and found that we were in for a lively time.
The pressure was greater than ever before in our ex-
perience. To the ice rushing and growling alongside
of us I did not pay much attention, for though our tloe
humped badly, and cracked and split in all directions,
there was not much obstruction to the tlow of ice. But
the break in the Hoe across the bows gave me serious
concern, for I saw the piled-up ice advancing toward us
seemingly as fast as a man could walk. Abandoning
the line of union which it yesterday tried to make
diajronallv across the bow to the Howing stream on the
port quarter, it bore down directly upon us. At each
grind of the advancing mass it piled up floebergs in
front of it, and the ship shook and trembled like a reed.
From my post on top of the deck-house the view was
magnificent though awful. I fully expected we should
be swept away into the grinding stream, and as the ap-
proaching ice made one more startling advance than
usual, I grasped the mainstay to keep my place when
the final crash should come. All hands had been called
and stood ready, although there was really nothing to

I i

172

THE V0YA(;K of TlIK JKANXETTE.

1)0 (loii'j. When at ().2o tlie advaiu'ing wall was twenty-
iivo feet from the stem, the pressure siuldeiily eeased,
and everything was ([uiet again. At seven the first
signs of (lawn made their appearance, and as the in-
creasing daylight made objects evident to our eyes, it
was a startling spectacle to see the confused wreck that
had been made of our once smooth lloe. The dogs,
which had been carefully brought on board at the first
■warning, were now liberated again to the ice, where
they Hew around with all the gayety of children let out
of school.

At nine a. m. land was seen on the bearings of Octo-
ber 29th, and recognized as our so-called north side of
AVrangel Land. I was exceedingly anxious all day,
for I counted upon the usual afternoon tidal pressure,
which 1 fully expected would finish the work begun
and almost completed this morning. But to my great
surprise not a movement occurred, and I again kept
my clothes on all night ready for a startling call.
Highest temperature minr.s 11°; lowest minus 24''.
Sounded at noon in eighteen fathoms (blue mud).

jVovenihc)' loth, 7'/tur.sdar/. — Aroused at two A. m. by
a loud crack under tlie ship. Collins, Avho ran out to
examine, reported that he saw no signs of trouble, ex-
cept a number of snudl cracks across the bow, and the
fact that the rent leading out fro^ i the stem had opened
to an inch- in width. 1 concluded this would prove a
forerunner to a morning's excitement, but again I was
pleasantly disappointed. Not a thing disturbed us for
the remainder of the night, and the day w'ore on, after-
noon came, and still no trouble. The meteorological in-
struments were put out on a tempora-y observatory hill
near the ship, and I began to hope that we might have a
few days' peace. At eleven i*. M. 1 went out to record the

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FAST IX THE UR.

173

teniperaturt's and aiicrnoirieter, and stood on tlie hill a
tew nionients iv^ardinj^ a beautiful auroral arch extend-
ing IVoin E. by S. to W. by N., the crown being 70 in
elevation and beariny; north. Hearing a few little crack-
les, like a dog walking over snow, I looked around to
see which dog had followed nie, when 1 descried two
men running over the gangway and racing for the
stem. 1 ran there at once, and to my ama/ement saw
the ice tloat away to the northward along our whole
length, leaving nothing but water on our port side. In
twenty minutes we had one hundred and fifty feet
width water on our port side, — the split occurring in
as neat a line with the keel as if the keel had cut it,
the ship remaining fast to the floe along her star-
board side, not even a crack being made in her snow
wall. The whole port side, snow vail intact, just slid
away without noise or excitement. Four of our dogs
which lay asleep on the tloe were not awakened by the
movement until the ice was nearly one hundred feet
away, and then they could not get back, our hands
being too lull in getting our things aboard to send for
them.

The meteorological instruments were once more hur-
riedly gotten on board ; the dogs, except Tom and his
three companions, collected and penned on the (juarter
deck ; both dingys got up on the roof of the deck-
house, the steam-cutter dug out of the ice and placed
on the roof likewise, the tripods taken in, all boats
cleared away ready for lowering, the port after clew of
the quarter deck awning triced up ready for passing
out provisions, etc. ; and by midnight nothing belong-
ing to the ship remained outside of her.

S. W. winds until eleven p. m., when calm. Barom-
eter rises from 29.74 to 29.82. Highest temperature

174

TIIK VOYAGK OF TIIK .IKAXXKI TK.

(

niiiius id, lowest temperature minus 15'; sounded at
noon in twenty fathoms, blue mud.

Ki'pt everybody in his clothes ready lor a call, piping
<lown alter serving out hot colVee forward and iiot tea
aft.

JVorembi'r Wlh, FrkUtji. — Nothing occurred to dis-
turb us during the night, although of com-.se anxiety as
to what might occur at any moment did not allow us to
get nuu'h sleep. I sincerely pray that we are not go-
ing to have the experience of the Tegetthof in her long
and j)erilous drift in the pack. This steady strain on
one's mind is fearful. Seemingly we are not secure for
a moment, and yet we can take no measures for our se-
curity. A crisis nuiy occur at any moment, and we can
do nothing but be thankful in the morning that it has
not come during the night, and at night that it has not
come since the morning. Living over a powder-mill
waiting for an explosion would be a similar mode of
existence. Our nights are beginning to be very long.
To-day the sun rose at 10. oO a. m. and set about l.oO v. M.
Twilight on clear days begins about seven A. m. and ends
at live P. M., giving us fourteen hours black night. Be-
fore many days the sun will leave us altogether, and we
shall have a long spell of waiting for his reappearance.
Daylight this morning showed us that our port Hoe with
its snow wall was live hundred yards to the northward.
It first moved to the eastward, then to the westward,
and finally came to a stand opposite its proper place
.alongside the ship, and five hundred yards distant. Ice
formed four inches in thickness in the fire-hole during
the night. As the sun came up we again saw our
" north side of Wrangel Land," between S. 40" W. and
S. 0" W. bearings. And we again sighted our old friend
Herald Island, bearing S. 49" E., all bearings true.

FAST IN TIIK I( i:.

it')

our

and

deiid

Noreiither \^)th, S((ffir<lm/. — A day of romplcto
<iuiet as far as ice is concerned. The open water on
our port side has frozen over sulliciently to hear
Avalkin^ upon it. AU'xey was accordingly sent to
the opposite side for Tom and his friends, and he
brou<^lit the three (not four) niissini;; dogs hack, to my
great satisfaction, and no doubt to theirs also, for they
seemed glad to return to the land of dried (ish. Not
that they had hinigered during the separation, for
Alexey says he saw a lot of hones where they were,
which these dogs had no doubt saved in times of plenty
and buried in the snow for future emergencies. The
remaining dogs were very indignant at the absent but
returning ones, and had they not been prevented would
have given them a tight as a celebration, looking no
doubt on the enforced separation as some new dodge
for shirking work. Finished to-day making sleeping
bags for all hands.

JVovcmher IGth, Siuidrv/. — At eleven A. m. held my
usual inspection. Found everything dry and comforta-
ble below. At one p. m. held divine service. The S. E.
Avind which sprang up yesterday blew with great force
during the night with terrific squalls ; and though its
velocity for a whole hour was no greater than seventeen
miles, at times it must have been at the rate of fifty
miles. It continued blowing during the day, and I
stood by from midnight for some exciting result. AVc
are seemingly resting in a cradle made under the ship
in the neighborhood of the foremast, and which has not
been sufficiently disturbed by our port floe leaving us
to set us adrift; for although the heavy wind has been
blowing on our starboard bow (its best hold for shoving
us off), we hang on bravely. Should large masses of
ice come grinding along our port side, it will be a ques-

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176

JIIK VOYACK OF THE ,FI:A\NF/ITK.

turn t)l' ciKlmiincc as to our ri'tain'mj^ our luu'scnt j)lncp.
Till' view to port thert'lorc receivrs (.in- <frL'iiU'.st oonsid-
(.' ration.

At 2.ijU P. M. till' vouiij; ice nlonifside of us roiiiinoiipcs
to split, and iniinediati'ly tin- lloohor^s ronnnuncc to
make down on us. .lumping on tlie dcck-liouso 1 view
the j)ro(i'ssi()n with sonii; anxit'ty. IJy <^rcat good lor-
tune a ])roji'ctin<i; pii'<'(' ol our starboard lloo holds on
and fends olV the lloatinu: pieces, and this push, aided
by the wind, carries all danger<ius masses just cU'ar of
our port side. Just astern of us there happens to be a
bight in the Hoe. into which the drifting ice goes (piietly
and conifortal)ly, and the open spaces being soon tilled
\\\) the inovenient ceases about three.

To-day the sun left us, although lor all the good he
•lid he iniiiiit have left vesterdav. The weather was so
cloud V that we had nothiim' more than davlii^ht. In sev-
enty-one days we will be looking lor his reappearaiu^e.

jVoi'vtithcr \1lli, Mondaij. — lee quiet during the day.

Nuctmhcv I8//1, 2\i('S(lai/. — At six a. m., with a light
northern wind, the ice got under way again and jammed
along to the N. W. The pressure across the bows was
very great, and this time the gr'-iding mass fairly
reached the stem. 1 surely expei ted the ship to be
carried along with it, but a heavy beam pressure held
ns up against our Hoe, and the barricade was switched
olf at an angle. The ])ressure lasted until noon, the
ship creaking considerably, rising a little, and heeling
over 4+' to starboard.

Noi'nulur Vdlh, Wechicsddi/. — From six a. m. to
noon heavy ice pressure on port quarter and beam, in-
creasing our heel to 5 . From six to seven P. M. heavy
beam pressure.

jV(H'i'hiher '2{)fh, Tluirsihiy. — Beyond occasional slight

FAvr IN' I UK K K.

177

prossiiro, wliicli increased our heel to starhoiird to i\\
\\v Imve 11 <lav ol" no nneasiness. Tliat is to say. we arc
not nionientarilv expectin"? t») he turned awav iVoni oin*
lloe and sent grindini;- along with a stream of (hit'tiii<^
lloe hnnps, or lookiii^- ' •■!• a hiealving in ol" our sid(?
by inunensu j)res«in . I5ut as I cannot help reali/,in<^
that we are in an exposed and danncrous position, and
that either of the foreuoiuii; catastrophes may oe<'ur at
any moment, 1 cannot he said to enjoy (juict or Meace
of mind. Sleeping with all my clothes on, and stiu Ing
up anxiously at every snap or ciack in the ice outside
Ol- the ship's IVame inside, most effectually pv > ents my
getting a pro|)er kind or amount of rest, and yet 1 do
not see ..i.^ iiiug else in stoi'e for me lor .some *ime lo
ooMi". This [)ack is likely to have some motion all
winter I su})})ose. So long as there may he water down
by Ikdiring Strait there will be space for relieving the
pressure. But when the outlets close up and presiuire
continues, whether by wind or tidal action, the hump-
ing and piling up will go on around us and keep us in a
constant state of turmoil lor months to come. Truly this
is no pleasant predicament. Wintering in the pack may
be a thrilling thing to read about alonyside a warm lire
in a comfortable home, but the actual thing is suilicient
to make any man prematurely old. Since we have be-
come surrounded by ice again, and could hardly move
very far or very fast, I have allowed the dogs to remain
on the lloe again to our mutual satisfaction. Though
a few luxurious ones prefer seeking the shelter of the
ship, the majority prefer living in the open air ; hence
our attempt to bring them on board only resulted in
a series of lights and violent attemp, ' to break away
again. Once on board it would take four men to keep
one dog from breaking for the ice, and there have been

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178

THE VOYAGE OF T!*:: JEANNETTE.

frequent escapes. The other night one of the strag-
glers was taken by Collins to be a bear. A ride was
liurried for, but the *' bear " had left fortunately, else
we might have had a dead dog on our hands. Last
night one of them fearing an imprisonment must have
sougiit shelter on the ice lumps on tiie port side. At
all events he was there this evening ; and the ice hav-
ing moved oft' a few feet from u.v, leaving a water hole,
he could not come back the way he went, and would
not come b any other in spite of our coaxing. While
walking on the ice alongside I heard a subdued '-'yelp"
imder the bow, and rushing there I was just in time
to plunge my hand in the water, and save our canine
friend from going under for good. He was pretty far
gone and remained in a dazed condition for an hour or
two after I hauled him out.

November "list, Friilaij. — Slight pressure in the
forenoon, after which the ice recedes, leaving a line of
open water on our port side. Sight the land again
on its accustomed bearings. Bright moonlight and star-
light. At twelve midnight a bright halo around the
moon about 2^ in diameter, and showing prismatic colors,
the crimson on the outer edge predominating. The low
temperature fills the air with frost dust, through which
the moon's rays are prismatically seen. Position at
seven p. M. shows a drift since November 17th of twen-
ty-two miles W. 4° S.

November Tld, Saturdaif. — The day begins with a
calm, but at three v. m. a N. E. wind sets in, and blows
until midnight with varying velocity, the maximum
being thirteen miles. The barometer falls alarmingly
fast from 29.72 to 28.88, and the temperature rap-
idly runs up from minus 17" to plus 10". The wind
blows in heavy squalls at times, but I see no indication

FAST IN THE ICE.

179

agiiiii

of vpry bad weather until perhaps wlien the barometer
begins to rise again. Sounded at noon in twenty-three
tathonis, and the lead hue indicated a drift to the west-
ward. We experience a slight pressure under stern
from Hoes which have advanced from the southward to
cover up the vast expanse of open water which has
been on our port beam.

Alexey and Nindeniann while out this afternoon fell
in with a bear and her cub. Alexey shot and killed
the bear, and had a livelv tussle with the cub, in which
he got his clothes torn. The ice was so uncertain, and
it was so late, three v. m., when Nindemann got to the
ship to report the shooting, that I did not run the risk
of trying to get the dead bear to-night, and accord-
ingly sent the metallic dingy to bring Alexey back,
leaving the game until to-morrow. '• Plenty jump,"
says Alexey.

Knvemher 'l'i\(l, Sunday. — The day begins with N. E.
winds, which change to S. E. and back to N. E. with a
velocity varying from three to thirteen miles an hour,
during which the barometer steadily falls to 28.79,
and the temperature rises to plus 24", making it uncom-
fortably warm while exercising. At nine v. m., after a
short calm, the wind comes out suddenly from the S.
W. with a velocity which almost immediately amounts
to twenty miles an hour, and causes the temperature to
fall quickly to plus 5"". The weather, which before the
shift had been overcast and hazy, clears so that at mid-
night we have the benefit of moonlight and starlight.

A few pressures during the day are the only things
which disturb us. At one i\ m. the advancing Hoes
pile up the ice under the bows, and I have no doubt
that this Avill serve as an entering wedge which, aiiled
by the wind on our starbom'd beam, will, before this

l'(

180

THE VOYAflK OF THE JEANNETTE.

southwester is over, break us out of the bed where we
have so snugly lain for over two and a half months,
Nindemann and Alexey started off in pursuit of the
bear shot yesterday. liut owing to the opening of the
iee in the mean time they were unable to reach the
place of the conflict.

Inspected the ship at eleven a. m., and held divine
service at Lot) p. m.

Novemher 2ith, MondKy. — Tt has come at last; we
are broken adrift from our floe ! Suspecting what the
continued action of this S. W. wind would be, I made
sure to have all the dogs securely housed on board .ship
before I went to bed last night, /. e., before I lay down
in my clothes to get some sleep. At five p. m. I was
aroused by a preliminary pressure under the bow.
Turnijig out I reached the deck-house top in time to
see a "V'cry severe nip which started our port bulwark
planking, the ice being already piled higher than our
port rail in some places. The ice under the bow was
piled up as high as our figure-head, and the pressure in
this direction was increasing. A floe piece with a wedge
shape had pierced '" our " floe, and was exerting its
force bravely. The ship cr.aked and groaned. Some-
thing had to give, for the pressin-e from ahead and
abeam was very great. Suddenly the ship lifted by the
stern, the wedge advanced, and our floe was split, and
the port pressure decreasing we were afloat on an even
keel once more. The port floe moved slowly to the N.
E., and we followed it, our snug cradle of two and a half
months being split and shattered, and no longer our
refuge and our strength. All our effects being long
since renu)ved we had nothing to l)ring in but our gang-
plank, which was soon accomplished. Throughout the
day we remained nearly in the same place, resting at

FAST IN THE TCE.

LSI

long

ono time against one floe, and at other times against
another.

The S. W. wind blew witli a velocity between twenty
and twenty-six miles Jin hour, changing occasionally to
W. 8. W. ; towards midnight it moderated io fifteen miles
an hour. Tiie barometer steadily rose from 28.95 to
21). 63. The highest temperature was plus 2.5 ; the
lowest minus 5°. The air was filled with falling and
drifting snow all day. Sounded at noon in twenty-two
fathoms, and observed our drift to be to the northward
and eastward.

November 26th, Tuesday, — The S. W. wind piped
lip again after midnight, and blew with a velocity va-
rying from twelve to twenty miles untd eleven a. m..
when it went to west, remaining there until midnight,
blowing with a velocity varying between twelve, seven.
and three miles. The barometer rose rapidly from 29.
64 to 30.32, — so rapidly, in fact, that I am suspicious
of it, and inclined to look for some more had weather.
Highest temperature minus 3.5 ; lowest minus 12\
Bright moonlight and starlight. Sounded at noon eigh-
teen and one half fathoms.

To-day has been one of the most anxious and excit-
ing days we have yet had. At (».15 a slight pressure
on the port bow commenced hostilities. At 9.15 a very
heavy squeezing on port side started our bulwark plank-
ing, and pinching down under us heeled the ship 3 to
port. At ten A. m. the pressure ceased, and we were
left floating upright in a small lead of open water, and
adrift as far as any iloe ice was concerned. For a time
I was imdecided what to do. There was no iloe near
us large enough to anchor to securely, and the chance
of another pressure coming while the ship was tied up
and unable to give to it was too unsatisfactory. If the

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182

rilE VOYAGE OF THE .IE ANNETTE.

sliip were free when the ice moved she woukl go along
with it ; if .she were tied up she might have to stand the
brunt in a very unfavorable position. As it was, she lay
in a kind of canal a little wider than her own length,
and ready for action ahead or astern. I concluded to
let her remain so, and watch for results. At five
p. M. I noticed that she commenced Heating stern first
through the canal. About a mile astern (E.) was a
large patch of open water, and from ahead (W.) the
broken lioe pieces were gathering away and coming
down upon us. At a little bend in the canal her stern
took the tloe and held fast, while her bow payed around
as prettily as if we were casting under jibs. No sooner
had she got stern to the wind than the advancing ice
Avas upon us, and we were pushed, forced, squeezed,
driven through this mile of a canal amid a grinding and
groaning of timbers and a crashing and tumbling of ice
that was fearful to look at. Still we sailed on, and in a
half hour or so Avere sent out into the opening beyond
where our speed decreased, and drifthig over toward a
thin tloe we ran our bows into the young ice and hold
fast headinu; S. Thouijjh we moved at no time with
greater speed than say two knots an hour, our passage
through that sluiceway of running ice was enough to
make one's hair stand on end, and each of us heaved
a sigh of relief when it was over. If we had in the
morning planted an ice-anchor to a small floe, I am
convinced this pressure would have torn us away from
it, and the stream of flowing ice might have jammed us
across this canal and given us some injury, even if it
liad not climbed on board. Having a bright moon,
nearly full, we could see, and that was a great comfort.
I could not help thinking how much worse it would
have been on a dark night, when we could have heard

FAST IN THE ICE.

183

all this trouble and yet have seen nothing. What one
can see, he can to some extent prepare for ; but it is the
unseen danger that strikes the most terror to the heart.
A man must be a hard unbeliever who does not recog-
nize a divine hand in these wonderful escapes.

A most beautiful eft'ect was created to-night by the
moonlight reflected or refracted from the tloes. A pure
golden light was thrown around and above the ice,
making one believe he was looking into fairyland.

November 2C)th, Wednesday. — My suspicions at the
sudden rise of the barometer yesterday were correct,
for to-day we have had and are having a snorter from
the S. E. The day opened calm, and so continued until
four A. M., when a light S. E. wind came up. This
slowly freshened, until at noon it was blowing with a
velocity of eight miles an hour, and at one p. m. the
gale burst upon us, blowing twenty-one miles the first
hoiu' and reaching twenty-nine miles before midnight.
The barometer rose to 30.27 until the wind freshened,
when it began to fall, reaching 30.28 at midnight.
The weather had a hard and angry look, and I see we
are in for a screamer. The temperature began at mi-
nus 9°, but rose to plus 10^ as the day ended.

The ship held fast in the young ice in which slie
ran last night, but shook from truck to keelson as the
heavy gusts took her. A few water holes were in our
neighborhood, and the main soli ^ pack could be seen
in all direction . This bay will no doubt close as soon
as the ice takes up its motion again, which I have ob-
served occurs when there is little or no wind. The
heavy winds pack up the large nuisses, and in the calms
and light winds, the pressure being removed, every-
thing struggles to get back again to its old condition,
and openings and races occur. Sounded at noon in

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184

THE VOYACK OF TIIK JE ANNETTE.

:i 't.

twentj'-one fatlioms (soft bottom). Sighted land on
the same general l)earings of October 29th.

JN'oronher 21 fh, 'Jliursday. — The wind went to S.
8. E., and bUnv all day very hard, its velocity ranging
from twenty-live to forty miles an honr. The sqnalls
were very heavy, and though we moved only about
half a length astern (to leeward, where we brought
up against young ice), the ship shook as if her sjjars
Avere coming out of her. At midnight the gale con-
tinued in full blast. The lead line showed a drift to
the N. W. Evidently all the ice is drifting the same
way, for the shores of our bay do not seem to contract
uuich, and so I suppo.se there must be some large water
space to the N. W. into which all this ice is drifting.
If it brings up anywhere before a N. AV. wind can stop
its way the pressure down here will be tremendous, and
our o])en bay will shut up like magic, in which case we
nnist prepare for more anxiety.

Since being be.set to the present time, though we
have had ditficulty in getting snow pure enough to
make drinking water, we have not been absolutely un-
able to do so. But now there is so little snow remain-
ing in our neighborhood that we are in a serious posi-
tion. A ery little snow has fallen thus far, and we have
subsisted on drifts; and as we are away from drifts
now, and cannot reach any, we have been forced to
come down to scraping the iloes around us. The snow
resulting is quite salt, and our tea and coifee to-day are
quite unlit to drink. It is not safe in our present con-
dition to send men away any distance, for if the ice
breaks up (and fissures are to be seen in all directions)
we might go adrift again and lia\x» more than we could
do perhaps to got the men back. Took the tempera-
ture of a small lane of water alongside at midnight and
found it 27'.

\% I

FAST IX THE ICE.

185

November 2Sfh, Frldajj. — Very hard blow from S. E.
all (hiy until towards midnight, when it slackonod up a
bit. At midnight, however, it conunenced piping up
again at S. E. by E., promising another installment of
the gale lor to-morrow. Stars of the first magnitude
were easily ''een to-day at one p. M.

There being no cliance of getting snow of proper pu-
rity, we got up the Baxter boiler to-day, and, rigging
a coil to it, commenced distilling. I am afraid this will
be an expensive business in the way of fuel, but it can-
not be helped. The snow that we have been able to
get for the last two days has been so salty that many
of the officers and men are being treated for diarrliuea.
This, of course, will never do. and pure water must be
obtained at any cost. We are all feeling the lack of
exercise very much. The ice is so treacherous that it
is unsafe to get on it. The poor dogs also feel the con-
finement, and when they are not engaged in a cheerful
fight go moping around in a desolate way. They have
regular cli<[ues, and occupy certain portions of the quar-
ter deck exclusively. Any trespass brings on a fight
inevitably.

Nocemher 2Wi, Salurdai/. — A day of wearing anx-
iety. The gale continued, varying between E. by S^
and S. E. At seven a. m. the ice commenced to move,
and seemingly to windward, as if the pressure were
forced back on itself. As we lav broadside to the
movement we had the full force of it on our frame.
The ice on our port side (the weather side) seemed
tougher and more unyielding than heretofore, and the
whole mass made our ship snap and creak with the
squeezing worse than ever l)efore. Several tunas the
pressure became so great that the ship ceased to creak,
and the deck seemed ready to burst open. To leeward

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180

TiiK voya(;e of tiik jkaxnette.

t I 'i

'< I

of US one lame sheet of ice would ride over another lary;e
sheet, and tlie two come down against us ; the port iioe
would decline to yield ; the two sheets to leeward would
break edges and pile up blocks against our starboard
side, and then begin pressing against these ; the ship
would groan and sqtiirni and then seem dead, while the
deck trembled. This might last half an hour, and when
it seemed as if wood and iron must give, the port Hoe
would hump up and split, and we would be pushed on
for another nip. This sort of thing lasted luitil three
p. M., and then the nip seemed to be hardest of all, and
remained so. We could not tell whether it let up or
not, for we were januned tight, heeling 23" to star-
board. The ship could not rise, lor the ice was only a
foot thick, and took the ship's side above tUe bends
only ; it was simply a question of its going through
her, or of her being strong enough to stand it. She
was strong enough, and that is all we can say. If she
had not been strong enough she would have been cut
in two. Eijijht hours of this mental tension is enough
for one day.

Nocemhcr oO/A, Sunday. — A day of peace and quiet
doubly acceptable after the strain of yesterday. The
gale blew itself out at six a. m., and we had a bright
moonlight and starlight until the struggling daylight
came into play at nine. Of course, we do not see the
sun at all, and our noon is but the twilight of ordinary
latitudes. Occasionally it is beautiful indeed, as, for
instance, to-day, when we had a few golden and red
streaks in the S., a clear blue sky to about 20^ in arc,
and the remainder of the heavens dark blue, illumi-
nated by a full moon. Venus was visible at noon. The
ice around us made a picture in its lights and shadows.
The broken pack surrounded us in all directions, while,

I i»' i

FAST iX THE ICK.

187

as if in the centre of a fro/en lake, the Jeannette hiv
squeezed by shibs of ice eiglit and one half inches thick,
with humped uj) and spHntered Hoes, showing where
she liad proved her strength.

Attempts to be poetical in the Arctic are praisewor-
thy, but I think I shall give them up. My sensations
of being in critical situations are too keen to allow me
to write in cold blood about the beauties of ice scenery.
1 will simply remark that the pack is no place for a
.ship, and however beautiful it may be from an testhetic
point of view, I wish with all my heart that we were out
of it.

We were able to resume our exercise of two hours,
which was a great benefit and comfort to us. Sounded
at noon in thirty-two fathoms (blue mud), and a drift
to the N. and W. was indicated by the lead line. A
raven, which Hew around the ship, was brought down
by a rifle shot by Aneguin, and added to the natural-
ist's collection. The loom of land was seen to the S. W.
At eleven a. m. inspected the ship, and at one p. m.
held divine service.

By two lines of position obtained from observation of
the moon and Mars, Danenhower determines our posi-
tion at 7.30 p. M. to be latitude 72^ 36' N., longitude
178° 08' W., from which it appears that since November
21st, the date of our last observations, we have drifted
forty miles to the N. V W.

I take leave of the month of November without the
slightest regret. It has been a month of gales, ice pres-
sures, and discomforts mental and physical. Earnestly
hoping that December will drift us quietly and peacea-
bly nearer the Pole, and bring us to some land where
we can at least have the merit of discovery if not of
exploration, I say good-by to November, and invoke
God's blessing on our ship and ourselves.

rf-

CHAPTER VI.

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

•I 1

December, IH?'.) — '20 Janituri/, 1880.

Auroral Dis|)l;iys. — Daily Wulks. — Troiililc witli Water. — Tho
Darkness. — Monotony of Lifn in tlic A'-,. tic;. — Tests of Li<;lit. —
Discomfort. — Tln^ Siiortcst Day. — Cliristnias. — Tidal Action. —
The Old Year and tlie New. — Festivities. — Daneidiower'.s Mis-
fortune. — A Cold Snap. — A Leak. — Serious IJusiness to close
it. — The Pumps. — Ueap[)earanco of the Sun.

December Isf, Momlaij. — The clcjir and bcaiitit'iil
wciitlior of yosterdiiy contimies to-day. Tho baroinoter
rises tVoin 3G.o6 to 80.50, an unusual eircunistance,
and one wortliy ot" attention as to its results. These
areas of high and low pressures follow each other lii<e
waves, and brino- us generally quite us bad weather in
the high as in the low. The atmosphere is remarkably
clear, and sounds made on the ice, while being trans-
mitted to great distances, seem to reverberate like
sounds made under a large dome. The human voice
has all the intensity noticed Avhen one speaks in an
otherwise empty htdl or in a ctive. Tl\e highest tem-
perature was plus 4"; the lowest minus 5". A halo was
about the moon. A mirage to the southward of an
open water space was very clearly defined in the sky.

Sounded at noon in thirty and a half fathoms (blue
mud). Ice quiet and ship remaining immovable.

The usual monthly physical examination of officers
and men was begun to-day. I shall notice with much

t ! V

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

JSI>

interest the result. 1 cjin see no clianfj^e for the worse
troui or<linary observation. We havi' at times l^een
troubled hy not <>ettin^ pure snow lor drinking and
eookiu"^ purpose;., and as this may continue imtil we
have a heavy snow-fall (for our distillinj^* is not perfect)
1 shall commence to-morrow the issue of a ration of one
ounce lime juice to every ollicer and num each day.

December 2d, Tiiesihiy. — A ([uiet day. We had, in
addition to one of the most beautiful moonlight effects
on the ice I had ever seen, and a sky perfectly free
from clouds, a line chance to witness auroral and other
ellects. At ten P. m. a lunar rainbow was visible, show-
ing faintly the prismatic colors. Towards eleven p. m.
this was succeeded by a lunar halo in which the pris-
matic colors were clearly visible. Then flared up an
auroral arch, extending from N. to N. E., whose crown
was iiV in altitude, and this arch, as if by magic, ab-
sorbed the lunar halo, or caused it to disappear. Then
suddenly the lunar rainbow reappeared and arched
alongside the auroral arch ; and finally, at 11.50, the au-
roral arch became an auroral curtain, Hoating sheets of
trembling Hame down to the horizon. Not a sound was
heard during all this display. Add to this picture the
ship thrown by the bright moonlight against a clear,
dark blue background, every rope and spar white with
frost, and a level floe surrounded with a fringe of fan-
tastically shaped hunnnocks, and it would make a study
for an artist. 1 have remarked heretofore that these
wonderful auroral displays are forerunners of cold
weather, and I shall watch with interest the resvdt of
this very high barometer and extraordinary atmos-
pheric phenomena. Very probably wo are lulled by a
false sense of security while the ice is so quiet, but 1
shall undress before retiring to-night, a thing I have
done but once since November 13th.

I'.MJ

rilK VOVAGK OF I UK .JKANNi: ITli.

' I'j.

If l,i'

Commenced the issue oi" lime juiee to-duy. For tlie
olllcers it is placed on the dinner-table with water and
sn<fiir, and each one sweetens or wateis it as he pleases;
with the men it is served out hy Sweetman, and an
ounce ol' su^ar is i'urnishod at the same time, and as
the men go to dinner by watches they each receive and
consume the ration.

Di'cemher 'j(?, Wcthiefiddt/. — The report of the sur-
geon's examiniition is very satisfactory. Of the eight
ollicers the condition of six was pi'onounced excellent,
and of the remaining two (myself and the doctor),
good ; of the twenty-three men, twenty excellent, and
three good. A day of beautiful weather, and although
we hear the rumbling of the ice in the distance, noth-
ing occurs around lis to disturb us.

December 4(h, lliursihiji. — Were it not for our daily
walking exorcise of two hours I fear we should stag-
nate. From eleven A. m. to one r. m., however, all
hands are sent out of the ship. The officers generally
walk, and the men go hunting, without success, or kick
foot-balls. We have a fine, level, smooth place, two
himdred and forty yards in length, to walk on, and we
numage to put in from four to six miles in the two
hours. This is the best of our daylight, for it is quite
dark until ten in the morning and after two in the af-
ternoon. Twilight dot^s not nuike any supply of the
absent sun. Danenho ^er started a school of elemen-
tary navigation for the u'ew.

December Qth, Satnr "y. — A cold spell has arrived,
but as the wonderful a oral display was on the 2d, I
fear it is stretching it j-o much to make a connection
with the cold weather. The highest temperature to-
day is minus 11°, and the lowest minus 24° (at end of
day with N. W. wind). Its effect on the ship was to

TIIK DKAI) OF WINTKU.

v,n

10-

Ito

koop up ii ornokint^ nt niii'it up to uiiduif^ht. caused hy
llic ('()nti'iU!ti()H of the uu'tiil I'listcniiit's and coiisiMini'iit
.snappinjf ol" tlu' wood. Wo havo noticed |ieretol()re
cousidoral)le liair stickiiii^ to the iee. wliere the dous in
Ivinj; down hail liozen fast, and had to tear themselves
away; hut this afternoon a dog stuck so last that lu)
had actually to ho dug out with a shovel. Pietty cold
weather !

JJtccmhrr "tUi, SiiiKhti/. — The cold spell continues,
the highest temperature heing minus 21 ; the lowest
minus 2o\ Inspected the ship at eleven A. M. To my
un])leasai.t siu'prise I found considerable dampness ou
the berth deck at the forward and after ends over the
berths. The stove, being about amidship, was sullicient
to keep the central ))ortion of the deck dry. The for-
ward end conununicated with the outer air by means of
the skylight leading to the spar deck ; which, though
covered by the tent awning, received air through a
hole in the said awning. The after end conununicating
by doors, having holes in the lower panels, with the
galley room, receives its air from the deck-house, which
is k(!pt at an average temperature of 45°, and hence
ought not to be as damp as the forward end. In reality,
however, it is about the same. Hence I conclude that
the condensed moisture is due to the .skylight being-
opened for the forward end, and the same for the after
end, with the addition of the spar deck (forward of the
deck-house), from its coldness caused by contact with
the outer air, serving to condense the warm air bel(>\v.
We have a skylight cover made of galvanized iron, with
a funnel, and we will now keep that in place steadily,
to see if the moisture will collect in that and freeze, as
was the experience of Sir John lioss. In addition we
shall also cover the under side of the spar deck with

192

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

felt or canvas, or carpet over these forward and after
berths and watch the elfect.

We are beginning to appreciate other discomforts.
Our distilling witii the Baxter boiler is not successful,
the resulting water being too salt for healthl'ul use.
The salt is due to two causes : first, the boiler receives
its Avater from a tank which is filled from the top of the
deck-house by drawing water in a bucket from a hole
cut in the ice alongside the ship. If greatest care be
not exercised (and what sailor will exercise it with the
tiiermometer 25^ below zero ?) water is slopped over the
distilling coil, also on top of the house, and trickles
down into the water barrel. A very little salt-water
trickling down spoils a half day's distilling, and as we
are able to distill only enough to meet our daily wants
(say forty gallons), it is a serious matter. It has taken
us some days to discover that trouble, and now we will
remedy it by rigging a pan to catch drip. Second, the
boiler is so shallow that when the pump is started to
feed it, if the pump by accident be started quickly, the
pressure in the sterun space is so suddenly relieved that
the water bubbles up and goes over salt to the water
barrel through the coil. The same eflect is caused by
admitting too much steam into the coil ; and if we do
not admit enough, the coil freezes up and bursts, as it
has done several times. If we l)ring the coil down
inside the deck-house, the temperature will not be low
enough to condense enough steam for our daily use,
and there we are. We have almost scraped the floes
l);ire to get snow enough to melt for washing purposes.
The resulting water is very salt, and it was the use of
that water which brought on diarrhoea. However, Mel-
ville has set to work to iniprove the distiller, and he
rarely misses a complete success.

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

193

We also begin to feel the darkness. Four hours' day-
litrht is not much. We have not even the moon now
to bear us company. We do not suffer of course, and
I notice no diminution of appetite. Everybody rallies
around the table at meal times, and is as cheerful as
usual. But it is unnatural for us to have this enforced
close companionship, and we seem to get in each other's
way. We are warm and comfortable, but we would
like to be able to go " somewheres." We cannot go
out and walk in the da' k with any object except exer-
cise, and our two hours' walking match from eleven
to one seems to supply enough of that. We read and
smoke, and growl at the stove when it does not throw
out enough heat, or at the cabin door when it lets in
too much cold. The uncertainty of our remaining
quiet in the ice for an hour at a time prevents the erec-
tion of our observatory, and the taking of interesting
astronomical and magnetic observations. We are able
to make our hourly meteorological observations only.
Our suspicions of the moving of the ice seem to have
couununicated themselves to the dogs, who come on
board regularly to sleep ; in fact some of them march
up the gang-plank as methodically as we do when it
strikes two bells. A few of them, liowever, remain on
the ice to make us chase them, when the ice breaks up,
and we are on the anxious seat.

We have had no bear excitements for some time.

Fox tracks are plentiful, but no foxes have as yet been

seen. Occasionally our hunters report having seen

blood where a bear has cauiiht a seal and eaten hiiu :

and bear tracks are followed uyi until daylight fails, and

the chase must end. From ten p. m. to midnight we

had a beautiful auroral display in the forui of loops.

December Stii, Monday. — I am afraid we are on the
13

'!> !

194

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

J |(

1:} ^,

II ;

! I

verjjfc ol" another ice disturbance, for at times dnrinj;
the day the ice to the N. E. of us, and distant half a
mile, began to move with its usual accompaniment of
groans and shrieks while under pressure.

Devemher 'Jfh, Tnt'sdcuj. — A south southeast gale all
day. No movement to the ice.

There is a wonderful sameness to our daily life, and
I can as yet devise no efiicient way of changing the
monotony. We are continually standing by for a move-
mciit to the ioe with everything ready for an emergency.
Knapsacks at hand, sledges packed, boats ready, medi-
cines and instruments, arms and anununition, sledge
parties all told off ; all these things keep us in a posi-
tion of unrest and uncertainty. We seera to feel as if
we were livini>' on the edy-e of a crater. Under the
circumstances we can do nothing but wait, thankful
each morning that we are no worse off than we were
the night before, and yet anxious as to what the day
may bring forth. Were we in a harbor and could con-
sider the ship a fixture until spring, we should hardly
fool the winter in the many occupations and amuse-
ments we should have, but here adrift in the pack we
can only wait and watch.

The necessary and inevitable refuse of the ship has
rendered our surroundings not at .ill pleasant to con-
template. If we could only have snow, this might be
covered and kept out of sight, but 1 begin to believe
snow never falls here. Althouy-li I ouy-ht to be glad
that it is all outside of the ship instead of inside, 1 can-
not help complaining of the lack of cleanliness of our
surroundings.

Melville has made a complete success of the distiller,
and now we get our water pure. Rut it takes two
pounds of coal for every gallon of water, and that ex-

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

195

)e
ve
11(1
li-
ar

X-

penditure will ruin us if we have to keep it up. Snow,
snow is what we want.

The sheet-iron cover to the forward skyliuht, thoujih
acting as a partial condenser for the berth deck, does
not keep it dry, and we shall have to resort to extra
feltint:;.

December 10//i, Wednesdaij. — A very curious addi-
tion was made to-day to our naturalist's collection in
the shape of the skull (?) and bones of co(]fish. These
bones were picked up by the cabin steward in his walk
to-day, between eleven and one, out of a large heap of
similar bones, a couple of miles from tlie sliip. They
are probably the relics of some successful fishing on the
part of a bear or of a fox. Experimented to-day with
Snellen's types, to get an idea of the diminution of
light. At noon the type marked D = 0, wliich, under
ordinary circumstances, should have been seen at thirty
feet, wa8 readable at but twenty feet. Approximately,
therefore, we have twenty thirtieths or two thirds of
full daylight at noon.

I had placed to-day a series of thermometers in dif-
ferent parts of the ship, and commenced keeping a
record of the temperatures ; showing the temperatures
of the living quarters, of the reservoirs from which air
is received in them, and of the open air. For instance,
the temperature of the bertii deck at ten r. m. was
68", the old galley-room 45°, the declc-house 49°, the
cabin ]iorch 14°, the cabin 51°, the open air 7°.

December Wth, Thursdai/. — The situation this morn-
ing seemed to promise a repetition of our exciting
times. Daylight showed a crack in the ice ahead of
and nearly alongside the ship, extending from S. W. to
N. Yj. The opening was made so ([uietly that the
watch did not hear any movement beyond a light

196

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

;• <1

I'.'

shock at 8.40. At ten a. m. there it was however, and
by eleven it had opened out to a width of six feet,
ali'ording us an oi)portunity of measuring the growth
of the ice since November 25th, the thne at which we
were squeezed out into what was then open water.
By actual measurement to-day we lind the thickness
of the ice to be twenty inches, and that is direct freez-
ing. For some reason the ice immediately surround-
ing the ship was not broken adrift, nor even badly
cracked on the starboard side of us (ship heading S.
S. W. true). At eleven movement connnenced. The
floe in which the ship lay moved to the northward-
where it was broken on its edges by coming in contact
with heavier tloes, and remained comparatively motion-
less, after shortening our two hundred and forty yard
walk by some forty yards. The ice on our port hand
then got under way and moved along slowly, like a pan-
orama, until it had proceeded about two hundred yards
to N. E , and then it stopped ; the opening six feet
wide began to close, and in a few hours everything was
quiet again, except an occasional suppressed sliriek in-
dicating pressure. The ship was not affected in the
slightest degree. Wliile looking around for a cause for
this movement we ol (served the clouds moving rapidly
from the S. W., preceded by a scud, indicating clearly
a S. W. gale. The barometer had fallen to 29.50,
and up to eleven A. m. we had been having six and
eig^il mile winds from the S. S. E. and S. At eleven
the wind jumped suddenly to S. W., and commenced
to pipe up. Beginning with eight miles, it reached by
eight p. M. a velocity of 25.5 miles, blowing at times in
heavy squalls at the rate of, at least, forty miles per
hour. At midnight it went to W., and was blowing
twenty-one miles an hour. The barometer rose with

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

197

the change of Avind to S. W., and at midnight read
29.80. The temperature, which had gone up to phis
10°, fell rapidly 9^ in one hour, and at midnight was
minus 8°.

At eleven p. m. we had a very fine auroral display.
A wave of light crossed the zenith from the E. to
the W. horizon which pulsed regularly in its transit,
waving about, however, in its ]iidsations, like a long
streamer of bunting let go in a Iresh wind. It is very
difficult to give a satisfactory description of these
things, and impossible to make a fair picture of them,
for no picture can show pulsations of waving light. It
requires actual sight to realize their appearance. I
have not been able thus far to connect their appear-
ance or non-appearance with any meteorological phe-
nomenon, or with any other unusual occurrence.

December Vdth, Saturday. — We have been trying
regularly to get sights to determine our position, but
are prevented by the almost perpetual haze that inter-
venes, making a reflection in the mercury of the arti-
ficial horizon impossible. In the absence of the moon
we have to fall back upon Sumners by stars. Latitude
by Polaris is out of our reach on account of its great
altitude and the impossibility of getting it with sextant
and artificial horizon.

December lith, Sunda}/. — A variety of winds and
weatiier to-day. At eleven a. m. made the usual Sun-
day inspection. Every part of the ship was in as good
order and condition as can be expected where our
cleaning is limited to .scraping and an occasional wiping
up with cloths and warm water. As to dampness there
is cause for complaint. The cabin and wardi'obe are
dry and comfortable, the dock-house is damp, and in
places wet from the tracking in of slush and dirt from

198

THE VOYAGE OF THE .IE ANNETTE.

IS <■,

'.r

the ice and its molting by the liout of the Baxter boiler,
iind also from the moisture created while the distilling
is uoing on, and the berth deck is damp to a slight do-
groe on the beams and shij)'s sido in the wake of the
forward and after berths, as described in my remarks
of last Sunday. Felt and canvas have been used freely
during the week to try to stop this dampness, but it
still exists, and I do not think any means would be
effectual short of building a house over all the deck,
chock forward to the bows. To be sure we are troubled
with dampness to the same extent as previous expedi-
tions, but then we have not had as yet such extremely
low temperatures. We are able to keep all the slop of
washing clothes and persons clear of the living deck
by having all that done in the deck-house ; and as the
men do not enter the berth deck directly from the
open air, we have no cold air rushing in and being
spread around. As all work is done in this deck-house,
and the men's fur clothing and knapsacks are kept
there, there is no room occupied on the berth dock
save for eating and sleeping purposes ; and as the car-
bonic acid estimates are not now extremely bad, we
can put down the slight drip as the only objectionable
featiu-e as yet to our winter experience, so far as gen-
eral health and comfort are concerned.

If life within the Arctic circle were perfect comfort,
everybody would be coming here. We must be thank-
ful that our discomforts are no greater. Everybody is
in good ^ ;alth and in good spirits. There are individ-
ual cases of feeling the time hang heavily, and of be-
in r mentally '• out of sorts;" but this arises, I fancy,
o •. tne non - realization of an impossible scheme of
I. *tii; cruising and life rather than from any effect on
the gener;il health. Excepting Mr. Dunbar and Ninde-

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

19'J

mann no one has passed a winter in the Arctic before.
Mr. Dunbar's experience has been limited to a winter
in Cuniberhmd Gulf, where his ship was in a snu^- har-
bor, and connnunication could be had and was had with
the natives. Nindeniann's experience covers one win-
ter in the Polaris in Thank God Harbor, and his terri-
Ijle winter-drift on the ice-tioe and niiraculons rescue.
For the rest of us it is our first experience ; and when
we add to our wintering in the pack, with all its un-
certainties and terrors, the knowledge that we attained
no high latitude our first season, made no discoveries,
so far as we know have made no useful additions to
scientific knowledge, we cannot help feeling that we
are doing nothing toward the object of the expedition,
and are consuming provisions, wearing out clothing,
and burning coal to no purpose. However we cannot
tell what may be in store for us, and in our ignorance
it is better to hope for good results than to pass our
lives in fearing bad ones.

New ice has formed twenty inches in thickness
around us, and salt has been deposited on its surface
by crystallization. What the certain thickness may be
at which the ice is almost free from salt I know not,
and Weyprecht does not say. But with a saw we cut
from a thickness of sixteen inches of ice four pieces,
each four inches thick, in regular succession, melted
the ice, and the resulting water was so salt as to be
\mfit for use. I will try this experiment with an eight
foot tloe in a few days, and inscribe the result in this
record. Without evaporating the water, and weighing
the remaining salt, I could not say what the exact de-
grees of diiference were, if any, betw^een the several
four inch layers ; but by the nitrate of silver test the
water turned white in each case to the same degree,

[i ' :

(if; "a >

200

'JIIE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

and the })ottom layer made water as unfit to drink as
did tlie sui't'ace layer containing the crystallized salt.

December Itith, MoniJay. — An mieventful day. Tiie
Snellen type test seems not a good way to obtain even
a comparative record of the intensity of our daylight ;
for whereas we could read a certain kind of tyjjc at a
distance of twenty feet on the 10th inst., we can to-
day read the same type twenty-seven feet, and yet
the circumstances of sky and weather seem exactly the
same.

Dtccmhcr l(Jth, Tuesday. — As far as it is possible to
do so, we are beginning to have some confidence in the
stability of our position. We have had such a quiet
time with the ice lately that we feel quite confident and
reassured. So much so that we contemplate neither a
breaking up of the ice nor any treachery while we are
walking over it. As if to show us, however, how par-
ticularly deceitful our surroundings are, Collins and two
men broke through the ice to-day at different times
and places within a radius of three hundred yards from
the ship. No harm resulted beyond a ducking, from
thus involuntarily taking the temperature of the sur-
face water. Highest temperature, minus 11°, lowest
minus 26° (our lowest thus far).

December ISth, Thursday. — This morning we dis-
cover a large opening in the ice about five hundred
yards to the northward of the ship, about one quarter
of a mile in width and extending cast and west. This
is brins'ing the uneasiness close home.

At five p. M., by a meridian altitude of the moon and
an altitude of Mars, Danenhower establishes our posi-
tion in lat. 72° 27' N., long. 178° 23' W., showing a
drift of eight miles to the W. 21° S. since December
2d. We seem to be, therefore, in a comparatively quiet
part of the ocean.

THE DEAD OF AVIX'IEU.

201

a
it

December 2Qlh, ^iuturdaij. — Measured the thickness
of the ice agahi to-day. The growth of the new ior-
mation, from November 2-Jth to December 11th, was
twenty inches ; to-(U\y the same ice measured in the
fire -hole is th'rty inciies, sliowing an increase of ten
inches in ten days.

This afternoon we had a shght crashing and moving
of ice to the northward of us, but it did not last very
long and gave us rio concern.

Nindemann brought in a seal to add to our delicacies.

December 2\st, Sunday. — A blowy day.

December 22d, Monday. — The shortest day in the
year. Although we cannot say, " Now is the winter
of our discontent made glorious summer," we can say
that our Arctic night is half gone, and that w'e shall
now have an increasing light to contemplate instead of
a failing one. The earliest sign of a gleam of daylight
was at 8.40 a. m., but of course it was nothing to speak
of. At 9.15 one could be sure that there was a sun
somewhere ; at twelve that we had daylight to, and
60° bevond, the zenith to the northward ; at one that
day was fading ; at three it had faded, while at 3.40
not a speck of twilight was left to us. At noon Snel-
len's types, which are ordinarily read at thirty feet
distance, were distinguishable at twenty-three feet ;
perfectly favorable conditions of atmosphere, the types
held towards the south. Though this is but an approx-
imation tow%ard measuring the amount of twilight, I
know of no better. As we had the bright light of a
moon nine days old, and 18" in N. declination, our light
was mixed even as late as an hour before and as early
as an hour after noon. But that the daylight was
stronger than the moonlight was proven by the fact
that, in walking, our shadows were thrown from the

I' '1

1^ i

202

TIIK VOYAGK OF THE .TEANXi: ITE.

) (

«liiylijiflit and not from the nioonlii^lit. Well, here ^fo
are in the pack. ISo tar, with two exceptions, we are
in <<;oo(l health. The two exceptions are Mi'. Danen-
hower and Mr. I)unl)ar. Mr. Danenhower has an in-
llaMMnatory trouble with his left eye, which obliges him
to keep it blinded, but is of no very serious character.
Mr. Dunbar has cauifht a bad cold which has run him
down considerably, and as he says he never was sick
before it seems to depress his s[)irits to be ailiui^ now.
Some of us are troubled with extreme sleeplessness,
myself, probably, worst of all, or, at least, as badly.
My work not being over until one A. :>[., at which time
1 retire, I rarely get asleep l)efore 3.30, and sometimes
not until four a. yi. 1 avoid napping as a rule during
the day, but it seems to make no difference. The lack
of sullicient exercise may be the cause of our wakeful-
ness. As an electrical celel)ration of the shortest day
in the year, we had a display of auroras far exceeding
in fpiantity, and, perhaps, also in quality any previous
efforts in that line.

December 2dd, Tucsdai/. — The high winds of the
last lew days haviug accumulated some snow near us
we set to work to-day banking it up against the ship's
side, with the hope of adding to her warmth and dimin-
ishing the dampness of the berth deck.

December 2Af/i, Wednesday. — A day of iiigh winds,
cloudy and unpleasant weather, and occasional flurries
of very (ine snow.

Christmas Eve. Our surroundings are not of the most
cheerful character, and our ship is not large enough
to make any effort at theatricals possible. A feeble
attempt at minstrels was in contemplation during the
past week, but it has not yet matured. In order that
some little conviviality and good feeling might be

|!'»

THE DEAD OF WINTEll.

203

occasioned or oncourjijjroil. 1 served out three (|uarts of
whiskey among tlie men in the evening, which sci-med
acceptable, and Melville mixed a line compound IVom
Irish whiskey presented by Paymaster Cochran before
we left, and with one exception we Jcjincil aft in drink-
iny; to a merrv Christmas to absent ones and to the
liealth of Co(;hran. Danenhower proposed and we
drank to the health and success of '■ our old shi|)mates"
(Mrs. l)e Long and Sylvie), and so in the interchange
of yarns and recollections we welcomed in the Christ-
mas Day with the hope that at its next coming wo
should be at least no worse off.

Christmas, Uccemhcr 'I'ith, Thursday. — A cloudy,
dark, and disagreeable day, with high winds and light
snow. The winds veer and haul Ijetween E. N. E. and
S. E., with velocities ranging from eigliteen to twenty-
six miles an hour, temperature rises from minus T to
plus T, soundings at noon in thirty-one fathoms, indi-
cate drift to W. .S. W. While the winds wx're blowing
at midnight from S. E., the clouds, cirro-cumulus, were
driving across the moon's face from the S. W. The
same occurrence was noticed by me last night and the
night before.

Christmas Day ! This is the dreariest day T have ever
experienced in my life, and it is certainly passed in the
dreariest part of the world. And yet we (or rather I)
ought not to complain, for it is something to have had
no serious mishap up to this time. We tried to be jolly,
but did not make any grand success of it nntil dinner
time, when fore and aft we had such a grand banquet
that we were for a time lifted out of and beyond the
contemplation of our surroundings. We should have
been comparatively happy were it not that' one of our
mess did not appear at the dinner table. At four v. m.

204

THE VOVACK OF TIIK .TK.WXETTE.

the crew, hoadi'd hy IJuiitswain Colt', cjinio alt into the
caljiii to wish us all a inuny Christmas, ami to invito w^^
into the (Icek-hoiiso to hear a little niiisic. We thanked
them lor their courtesy and went to the deck-house,
where they played music, sauj;" songs, and Alexey gave
us a native dance. At all events the crew seemed to
have' a merry Christmas.

Deciiitbci' 2i\//i, Frul((y. — At 10.15 \\ m. a sharp
crack was heard on our starboard side, and on going
on deck to look lor ii cause oj)en water was discerned
ahead and on our port side to the eastward about three
hundred yards distant. I went ont to it and found that

W^^^<'Wv-'f

A Peculiar Ice Form.

I. 1 '

the ice had opened into a chainiel about twelve feet
wide, extending for about a nide nortli and south, and
curving around our bow to some new ice made over an
opening of yesterday. I mr;.-t now believe that this
ocean is subject to tidal action, for as all our pressures
have been at or about the times of full and new moon
(full moon, October 29th; new, November 13th; full,
November 28th ; new, December 12th ; full, Decemljcr
28th), they can be traced to the greater movement due
to the spring tides, as suggested by Chipp, on October
31st.

TlIK DKAl) OF WIN'IKU.

205

Dtcemhcr 21th, Saturdni/. — At five a. m., a light
halo with prismatic colors ; at six, a lunar circle ; at
seven, u faint aurora to N. E. ; at eight, a halo. At
1 l.oO A. M. there. was a slight niovenieut to tl)e ice be-
yond and along the ojjening of yesterday.

Ihcvmhtr "l>>th, Suiiihiii. — From o.lO to 5. '25 a. m.
there was a slight eclipse of a [)ortion of the nu)on's
lower lindj. If we had been able to have our observa-
torv in working order on shore we niiy-ht have nuide

%. CD O

exact observations of this occurrence. ]>ut as wo are
in our uncertain state in the ice-pack, we can do no
more than note the fact of an eclipse having taken
place. At one r. m., held divine service, only four be-
side myself rt tending.

In the afternoon one of our dogs began to act queerly,
seemingly bereft of all power of motion. Supposing that
he might by some chance have become frozen we had
him carried on l)oard and laid on felt in the deck-house.
He still declined to make any exertion, and his jaws
■were locked together, while his eyes were fixed and
expressionless. In the evening the doctor injected
annnonia into him with small ellect.

December 2\)th, ^fondfo/. — A slight grinding move-
ment in the neighborhood of the late opening of the
ice to the eastward at 10.10 r. m. At noon there was
something appearing very much like land between
S. by W. and a half" W. and S. W. and a half W. Wc
believed that we saw an increase in the amount of day-
light already at noon. To-day the sky had ([uite a rosy
tinge at the southern horizon, and the light was almost
sulhcient to have an effect on the sky to the northern
horizon. A fidl moon, nearly on the horizon, at its
northern culmination, made it impossible to say where
the daylight ended and the moonlight began.

200

THE VOYAGE OF THE .TEANNETTE.

The <log mentioned as being sick died during the
night, and we have now but thirty-eight left, and one
of these is dying slowly, too, having beer* bitten through
the nose in a fight at St. Michael's. Alexey opened the
dead dog, and found in his stomach a wad of oakum as
l)ig as my fist, which of course caused his death. These
dogs will eat anything, and in spite of all attempts to
prevent them. They are given a dried fish each daily,
but all the same are ])rowling around day and night
amo'ig empty meat cans and ash heaps, and making a
rush every time a pan of dish water even is thrown
over the side.

December ^\st, Wednesday. — The last day of the
year is, so far as weather is concerned, dull and gloomy.
The earliest trace of dawn occurred at 8.16 A. m. Occa-
sional Hurries of snow, very fine and driving, seem to
promise us some relief from our expenditure of fuel in
distilling, but as soon as we begin to think it really will
snow, the snow fiurries cease.

Danenhower was placed on the sick list to-day, his
eye having regularly broken down.

To give an impetus to the social feeling in seeing the
old year out and the new year in, I sent four quarts of
brandy forward for the crew, while Melville heated the
water for a savory compound aft, and as midnight ap-
proached our little colony of thirty-three people waited
for the sound of the ship's bell to say good-by to the
year 1S79, and welcome to the year 1880.

1880, f/««?^r<n/ \st, Thursday. — The l)irth of the new
year was annovmced by the rapid ringing of the ship's
bell by the man on watch, and the crew, all assembled
on the quarter deck, gave three cheers for the " Jean-
nette," and sent a deputation of two men into the cabin
to wish us all a happy New Year. The year opened

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

207

clear and pleasant. The temperature began at minus
24", but at four a. m. it dropped suddenly to minus Sif,
and by eleven a. m. ii had reached minus 89^, running
along at that steadily until midnight, when it reached
minus 89.5°. The temperature was probably lower, but
the mercurial thermometers began to freeze, and the
spirit thermometers did not record accurately at this
point.

At three a. m. we had a lunar circle showing faint
mock moons, the lowest mock moon very bright.
Through the real and two lateral mock moons a curved
line passed toward the horizon. At nine P. m. a blood-
red halo around the moon. Early daylight at 8.14 A. M.
Sounded at noon in 30i fathoms. Owing to the low
temperature and strong wind blowing, 1 suspended for
the day the operation of my regulation making every-
body leave the ship and exercise on the ice from eleven
A. yi. to one p. m.

At three p. m. everybody sat down to a capital din-
ner, and afterward we got ready for the minstrel per-
formance in the evening. Our men had rallied from
their failure to get up one for Christmas, and seemed
determined to make this entertainment good enough
for both occasions. During the day invitations wore
sent aft, accompanied by prograiiunes. At 8.30 one of
the men came to the cabin and invited us into the deck-
house. Entering, we found n nice little stage erected
with drop-curtain, footlights, etc., and tastily decorated
with Hags. The performance commenced with a min-
strel variety, jokes and conundrums sivndwiching in
with the songs. One conundrum was eivcellent (point-
ing to one r!* ' .e stanchions of the deck-house) : '• Why
is that stanchion like Mr. James Gordon Bennett ? Be-
cause it supports the house." Sweetnum ;< songs were

208

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

very good, aiul Kuehne's violin solo was fine indeed,
especially when one takes iito consideration the ^act
that a seaman's life .loes not serve to render the fin-
gers supple and delicate. Mr. Cole gave us a jig with
all the gravity of a judge. One of the features of the
evening was the reading of a prologue composed by
Mr. Collins, in which each one of the crew was made the
subject of a rhyme in turn. Alexey and Aneguin gave
us native dances, and the latter an imitation of a song
sung by our Chinamen. The Chinamen gave us their
native song, and a sham light with knives and a pole,
winding up by imitiiting with much contempt Alexey's
and Aneguin's manner of singing and dancing.

Instead of shadow pictures we had tableaux vlvantSy
'• Neptune " (Cole turning a wheel, our broken spare one,
moimted on a camp stool) ; '• Sailors mourning over a
dead marine" (two sailors mute with grief over an
empty brandy-bottle); "A glimpse at Vulcan" (our
prize blacksnuth, Dressier) ; "• Queen Anne " (Aneguin
— Anne Gwyne — Queen Anne); '"Is that a bear I
se??" (Alexey with dog, aiming at some unseen ob-
ject); "Mars" (inan on cr.'^ches) ; "'Taking an ob-
servation" (man drinking out of uplifted bottle), were
all capital. When, the perfornuince over, we broke up
at eleven o'clock, we all felt satisfied alike with the
ship, the minstrels, ourselves, and the manner in which
we had celebrated the first day of the year of our
Lord IS.SO.

Janna) II 2fh Friday. — A startling meteorological
fact can be recorded to-day. We have seen some pretty
high barometric readings, but to-day's experience goes
far beyond anything ever seen by our party. The
pressure began at 30.64, but it rose to 30.85 at noon.

and at midnight had reached 13.13.

These readings

THE I)p:ad of wixtkh.

209

are reduced to a temperature of 32"^ Fahrenheit. Tiie
thennoineter remained unifornd}^ very low, the higli.'st
being minus 37 , and the lowest 30.5'.

There is, no doidjt, a heavy blow going on to the
southward of us. For us the accompaniments of tliis
high barometer and low temperature were a westerly
wind veering, going to N. and ending in perfect
calm, and almost entirely cloudless sky (a few light
streaks to southern horizon being the only clouds), and
no unusual electric disturbance. In fact, the auroral
displays were quite ordinary. A lunar halo was also
oh >'voii .t three a. m., l)ut it had no especial features.
Xt >u.yhght numerous water clouds were observed
a.oLind us, but they disappeired during the forenoon
as the ice closed. At ten v. m. the ice commenced
grinding near us in the S. W., the motion, judging
by the sound, being transmitted along a line running to
the northward. What 1 mean by that is. that when the
ice moved first it was in the ti. W. ; then the next
sound was from S. W. by W., while in the S. W. it was
quiet ; so on to W. and along, the sound retreating to
the northward. No motion was comnnmicated to the
ship or to tl)'- ice surrounding her. The noise was ex-
actly like (lie ji iddle-wheels of a steamer beating the
water, scuKiiiues at full speed, and sometimes at half
speed — pven m \t may be heard on a still night on
the Isorth Kivc: : L home.

Every once in a while during this cold snap, we are
startled by a loud crack like a riHe shot, caused by the
drawing of some fastening. That we have not had
more of them nuiy be due to the extra secure maimer
in which our ship is built ; for Mr. Dunbar seems to
hiive e\,. ienced much more of this kind of noise in
wintering ' i whaler in Ciunberland Sound.

; .'I ■

nsm

210

tup: voyage (>f hie .jeannette.

January or/, Saturday. — Early daylight at eight
A. M. At noon good clear daylight illuminating the
tioe, and showing everything about the ship distinctly.
Anemometer read clearly without lantern for the first
time in many days. The southern sky showed bright
red. The loom of land was descried to the S. S. W.
At one A. M. the ice was again in motion to southward.

January -ith, Sunday. — At 12. oO a very brilliant
meteor .shot in a curved lii\e from S. to S. E. and ex-
ploded like a rocket, sho\ )'• »'"d, yellow, and blue
colors. At eleven inspected i ip. The berth deck

j>t tlie forward and after ends .-i again beaded with
moisture. The experiment of laying old mattresses on
deck on the forecastle and covering them with snow
worked to a charm for a day or two, the berth deck
being dry and comfortable, but it has broken out again
as bad as ever. The fore store-room is dry, and, as far
as we can see, entirely free from frost ; but this is ex-
plained by its being covered by the deck-house. The
after store-room is full of frost, and will have to be
thoroughly broken out in the spring. The ward-room is
dry and free from frost except the side bulkheads of the
forward rooms (Danenhower's and Collins') ; the forward
bulkheads being felted are quite free from frost. Sev-
eral of the oflicers discovered during the Aveek that
their mattress covers (ticking) had commenced to mil-
dew and rot, moisture having collected between their
mattresses and the berth bottoms. This has been rem-
edied by each one turning up his mattress to air in the
morning upon getting up, and airing it on Saturdays
when the fire is lighted in the ward-room to heat water
for bathing purposes. The cabin is dry, warm, and com-
fortable. During om* two hours' walking exercise on
the tloe from eleven a. m. to one p. m., it is opened and

THE DEAD OF WINTEll.

211

ventilated the whole or part of the time, depending on
the temperature, and though we sometimes lind it cold
upon our return on hoard, that drawback is more than
compensated for by having had the air changed.

Our little mess is pulling through the winter fairly
well. Mr. Dunbar is getting back to his usual li^ood
condition, but Mr. Danenhower is having a hard time
with his eyes, the intiammation being so great that he
cannot bear any light to fall upon them. The rest of
us are up to our usual stai dard. At one r. m. read the
Articles of War and mustert,d the crew. After which
performed divine service.

January ot/t, Monday. — This morning the doctor
came to me and represented that Danenhower's case was
of a very serious character, and that there was great
danger of his losing the sight of his left eye. Owing
to the necessity for shielding the eye from all light, it
would become necessary for Mr. Danenhower to remain
in his room in total darkness, and it was feared that this
might aifect his general health and depress his spirits.
I am much distressed at the news, for Danenhower is
highly prized by all of us, and by his eiforts has kept
us many an hour from moping. He is now shut out
from all participation with what is going on, and we can
do nothing but go down occasionally and sit with him
in the dark and talk with him. He is cheerful enough
himself, however, and, having great force of character,
lias made up his mind to accept the situation and fight
it out patiently.

January Gfh, Tuesday. — The surgeon handed me
to-day his report of the result of the monthly examina-
tion. He considers the condition of the majority of the
ofticers and men satisfactory. His opinion of Danen-
hower's case I recorded yesterday. Several of the

1:'

K 'I

212

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

'lU

officers and men complain of sleeplessness, which I
have also previously noted. 01" the thirty-three offi-
cers, seamen, and natives, twenty-three are in excellent
condition ; ei,uht are in good condition ; one is in fairly
good, and one in poor condition — so that 1 think we
are in no very serious amount affected by the endur-
ance of the Arctic winter.

Jamuu'n Sfh, 7'/n(rsdai/. — Danenhower's case still
excites uneasiness in the surgeon's mind. The best that
can be said of it is that it grows no v^^orse. As it is al-
ready very bad, there is but little comfort in this knowl-
edge. This continued confinement in a dark room may
prey upon Danenhower's mind, although thus far he
has borne it bravely.

Januarti Vlth, Monday. — At two a. m. a slight ice
movement to westward. At 1.15 p. m. a sudden sharp
crack made the ship jump one quarter of a point in azi-
muth. Supposing that we were in for a time, I ran out
on deck, but found everything surrounding the ship in
its usual quiet. About eight hundred yards to the south-
ward, however, there was tlie sound of grinding and
crushing, and this movement no doubt was the cause of
our getting a sudden nip and consequent scare. Know-
ing that all our trouble came at new and full moon, and
that we had a new moon yesterday, I stood by anx-
iously all the afternoon and evening for some further
demonstrations, but nothing occurred, and we were able
to go to bed in peace and quiet. From the sudden low-
ering of the temperature, I am inclined to think we are
going to have another cold snap.

January VMh, 2\icsday. — My expectations of a cold
snap have been realized, — the thermometer, which be-
gan at minus 24'', having gone down steadily to minu,=5
35° at nine p. m., and only risen to minus 02" at midnight.

THE DKAI) OF WrXTKU.

213

This cold snap followed very closely the new moon, and
I observed by looking back in the journal that our
other cold spell occurred at about the same time after
full moon, which I had been led to expect by the re-
marks of Dr. Kane, McClintock, and others. At the
full moon instance our mercurial thermometer indicated
minus 39.5°, which is 4.5^ colder than our new moon
experience. The weather to-day was remarkably clear
and l)eautiful. From six p. m. to midnight the sky was
al)solutely cloudless, and the southern horizon seemed
as clearly defined as a knife edge. The delicate new
moon a little al)ove it, the stars bright and cold, the
absolute calm, made a picture such as one was forced
to linger over in spite of danger of free/ing nose and
face. Turning about, an equally beautiful picture, but
of a different kind, met the eye, — the ship. For the
last two days there was considerable moisture in the
air, which was deposited on our rigging in rime and
light fluffy masses like down. Freezing there imme-
diately, of course, every rope and spar seemed made
twice its usual size ; and this evening, after gazing at
the perfect picture which nature gave us of a midwin-
ter night, to turn around and look at the ship was to
feel that she had dropped out of fairy-land in her piu'e
whiteness, and was too — Well. 1 can't say what 1 want
to. These outbursts are too much for me ; 1 commence
them, and cannot finish them ; I seem to know the tune,
but can never remember the words. Occasionally I go
out on the ice on these beautiful evenings, and try to
make words express my feelings suitably ; but a lot of
dogs wrangling over an empty meat-can, trying to find
a meal in it, surround me, and drag me down to plain
matter of fact. So I take my half-frozen nose tenderly
in my hand, and lead myself back on board ship.

.HI

I )M iw iJii 1 T-T*^"""- — nr> I

214

TIIK VOYA(}E OF THE JEANNETTE.

^\' i

At 0.15 p. M. the quaitcrmaster came in to report
heavy grinding and movement ahead of the ship to the
8. S. W. Seizing a hniteni I rnshed out upon the floe,
accompanied by Alexey, and from the liorrid din and
screeching of the ice I thought the commotion could
not be fifty feet from us. Alternate the howling of a
gale around the rigging of a ship with the beat of the
paddle-wheels of a hundred steamers, and you will have
a good idea of what this noise sounded like. Not feel-
ing any trembling to our floe, I concluded to look fur-
ther for the disturbance, and so went on. After going
about one thousand yards and crossing two cracks my

A Quarrel Over a Meat-Can.

lantern went out. We were not up to the disturbance
yet, and the noise was quite as great. After floundering
and stumbling around for a while, I decided to return
and await events nearer home. Alexey and myself,
after rolling over and over a dozen times or more in
the darkness, made our way back, and finding no dis-
turbance at the ship, we dismissed the subject contempt-
uously as " plenty noise, small move." At eleven the
noise and movement had passed off to the eastward,

THE dp:aj) of winter.

215

and were growing faint in tlie distance. The carpen-
ters connnenced to-day the building of two more sleds,
to carry our cutters in case we have to abanilon the
ship, which God forbid.

January \Ath, Wednesday . — Excepting a little ad-
ditional movement in the distance to the S. W., the ice
gave us no alarms. But at its best, it is so treacherous
that we never feel safe. I went with a dog sled sev-
eral miles around the floe and saw a few openings, al-
read}' frozen over, but these are the only signs of re(!ent
movement. The big piles of slab ice heaped up here
and there are the results of the great November confu-
sion which broke us adrift and floated us to our pres-
ent insecure berth.

January \bth, Thursday. — We have had considera-
ble anxiety to-day on account of the ice. At noon a
slight shock was experienced, and on going out on the
floe I found that it had crt. .ked and opened about
twenty feet from our starboard side (ship heading S.
S. W. and a half W.), the crack rounding the bow and
going ahead in the prolongation of the stem in one di-
rection, and in the other, passing along, it went across
the stern at a distance of about one hundred yards.
This crack widened, until at three it had become eight
feet in width, and at the same *^ me a fissure appeared
on our port side about one hundred feet distant, which
became an opening at six. As far as could be observed,
the general direction of the ice movement was to the
E. and S. We were not disturbed beyond an occasional
snap, as some fracture took place in the ice, but this
horrible uncertainty grows wearisome. Living over a
powder manufactory may be exciting, but it is not
healthy excitement ; and our constant state of anxiety
may well be compared to it. As the daylight left us,

.':' j ' j; ? L ' j ' ; r^ J5. t^gg:?

216

tup: V()YA(;k of riii; .ikaxnette.

at lour, onr ]K)siti()n was witliiu a small tloe with water
all around us. Of course, the ice will close up aijain,
and then it is a question of strength. If the small lloe
is squeezed on two sides it will collapse, and then the
ship gets the pressure ; if squeezed on one side it will
go to the main tloe on the other, and the edges will
break up and pile up until the broken masses reach the
ship's side. In any case, the ship comes in for some
unpleasantness, so there is not much choice. Ice forty
inches thick is a powerful enemy but a weak defender.

JunnfU'ii ICtfh, Friday. — Although the wind did not
attain a high velocity, it seemed to be peculiarly search-
ing and very loud. While we have been able to take
our usual walking exercise with less wind and minus 2'.)"
temperature, to-day a temperature of minus 16^ was
unbearable. I accordingly dispensed with the enforced
exercise, although I make it a general rule to keep it
up as long as the thermometer stands above minus 30°.

At 12.o0 A. M. the familiar grinding and ji-roaning
made itself heard on our starboard side. Examination
showed that the floes which separated yesterday were
coming together again, and breaking up the new ice
which had already formed in the crack. Beyond an
occasional jar and shock, the ship did not move. At
three the ice again began its movement, and this con-
tinued at intervals all day until seven p. m. Jars and
shocks were frequent, but the ship did not move, keep-
ing the same heel 2?.° to starboard, although she was
receiving considerable pressure on her underwater body.
We had, therefore, nothing to worry us but a constant
state of tension and anxiety. The auroral display was
extraordinary.

January 17 fh, Saturday. — The day opened pleasant
and clear with a N. W. wind. The barometer rose stead-

THE DEAD OF WIXTKIl.

ily from 29.02 to 30. The tempcriitm-o ran down
rapidly, j^ivin^ us our roldost experience tlius lar. —
beginnin<j; at niinu.s 21.0^. it ran steadily down to mi-
nus 42^ by live i'. m.. at which temperature our mercu-
rial thermometer, No. l,olo, froze solid, and declined
to no down any further. Mercurial thermometer No.
4.274 kept on, however, and acconnnodated us at
midnight with a rea(hng of minus 44.5'. The two
spirit thermometers were slow to realize how cold it was,
for No. 4,402 had got only to minus 42' at midnight, and
4,o97 to minus 41' ; but they may do better hereafter.
The weather has been beautiful all day, scarcelv a cloud
and but little haze preventing the sky from being ])ei'-
fectly clear. Excepting a slight movement ahead of
the ship at seven a. m. the ice let us alone, giving us
calm minds to enjoy the cold and the auroral display.
Early daylight at G.55 A. m. As we have had so much
clear weather we have seen nothing of the land to the
southward. The refraction has caused it at other times
to be lifted so much above the horizon that we have
been quite misled as to its distance. By our last deter-
mination of our position, we are one hundred miles to
the northward and eastward of Wrangel Land, suppos-
ing its position to be correctly defined on the chart, and
yet when we last saw it it was hard to believe it more
than fifty miles away.

A careful measurement of a portion of the turned
up floe broken off in the late squeeze gave us a :\\'.< k-
ness of forty-six inches, the result of direct freezing
since November 28th.

January IS/A, Sunday. — I inspected the ship at
eleven A. m., and found the berth deck fairly dry. By
watching the moisture carefully, and wiping it oft' when-
ever it appears, the berths are kept dry ; and by airing

218

I'llE V0YA(;K ok I'IIK jkannktik.

'I ,■

;■ i:

the inattivssos woi-kly in the dcrk-liouso, and turninf^
tlit'in up from day to day in tlio IxTtiis. 1 think wc
avoid any (.'vil coiisi'hul'IK'i's which nii<^ht be produced
by damp bedding. At one v. M. 1 read divine service in
the cabin.

JdHuary VJth, Mondai/. — A day of ji^reat anxiety
and trouble. At l.oO a. ,m. tiiere was a loud noise as of
the criU'kinjL^ of the ship's frame from some great pres-
sure. 1 was sittiug in my room at the time, and the
sound seeuu'd to come right abreast of me. I subse-
(pieutly learned that a similar souud ha<l been heard on
the berth deck about abreast of tiie foremast. I ran
out to look for a cause for this noise, but could see
nothing. The ice was perfectly quiet, and no evidence
of anything wrong could be found about the ship. Af-
ter waiting an hour for further developments, nothing
occurring, I turned in, supposing it might have been a
bolt drawing by reason of the extreme cold. At 7.45
the wind suddenly shifted from N. to W. N. W., the ice
began to move, and, amid the groaning and grinding of
the Hoes, the ship was felt to receive tremevidous pres-
sure. The line of ice movement appeared to be at the
break across the bows which occurred December 11th
and closed up the same day. But the ice, while mov-
ing along slightly to the eastward, came down toward
the stem, broke off large pieces of floe at the old frac-
ture, and, piling up these masses under the stem, brought
a tremendous longitudinal pressure on the ship. The
ship being firmly imbedded in the floe, and held firmly
on all sides, could not, of course, go astern, nor could
she rise, although her curving bow was in her favor,
and in consequence it became a question of her fore and
aft strength. As she had stood an equally severe pres-
sure on her sides (much weaker places, of course), 1 had

I m

Tin: 1)i;ai> of uintkii.

'J 10

no particular fear; and when I saw the tloe on lii'r [)<)rt
side buckle up and break in long tb\vartslii[) cracks, and
then the movement and pressure both seemed to cease,
1 believed that we had weathered one more nip.

At 10.30 A. M. when the men went down in the lire-
ro(jm ut the daily serving out ol' (!oal, Sharvell heard
the running ol" water in the bilges, and promptly re-
})orted it. An examination was made at once, and we
discovered that water was flowing from forward. Fol-
lowing it up we found to our dismay that there were
two streams of water an inch in diameter, Mowing
through the filling which had been put in below the
berth deck at the Mare Island Yard ; and that the
water stood at a depth of eightei a inches in the fore-
peak, at twenty-four inches in the store-room, next
abaft it, and thirty-six inches in the fore hold, while in
the lire-room it was over the floor-plates on the star-
board side. The deck-pumps were at once rigged and
manned, and I ordered steam to be raised on the ])ort
boiler to run the steam-pump. While one watch worked
the pumps, the other watch were put at work breaking
out the fore peak, hoisting the flour out of the store-
room next abaft it, and breaking out the fore hold. To
my great relief the pumps seemed to hold their own.
The forward bilge-pump (the only one worked) being
in the deck-house, the men were sheltered from the in-
tense cold, and were able to work to advantage. We
had great difficulty in getting the use of the steam-
pump. In the first place, the sea cocks being frozen
we could not I'un up the boiler from the sea, and hence
had to resort to pouring water from buckets through the
man-hole plates. The tetnperature of the fire-room
was then minus 29°, and we were a long time in getting
the pump in a condition fit for use. But by Melville's

220

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

«Wll

iiidoiiiitable energy it was ready by three p, m. Up to
this time \v(! had carefully kept the <i,ates ol" the for-
ward water-tight bulkhead closed to keep the water in
one conipartuieut, but when steam was ready we opened
them. The water did not How aft readily, however,
the limber holes imder the coal bunkers bein<>: frozen
or otherwise choked up. Such water as did come aft
was pumped out by steam through the fire hose con-
nection on deck, and by hose through a scupper ; our
steam-pump suction was on the port side, and the ship
being heeled 2i° to starboard, the greatest amoimt of
water came aft on the starboard side. Hence the steam-
pump could work only when the water I'ose above the
keelson, and washed over to port. 1 kept all hands on
deck until midnight, and then sent one watch below ;
and. in view of the hard work everybody had been
called on to perform, 1 served out two ounces of brandy
to each man. Nindemann stood down in the fore peak
up to his knees in watej*. stulfing in oakum and tallovv
into every place from which water came. As fast as
he stuffed it in below the water came out above ; and
when finally he got so i'ar that but a little water trickled
out from the bow-lilling, it forced its way out through
the ceiling. We put Alexey and Aneguin to work
digging out the ice under the l)0w, to try to iind out
where tlio injury was and of what natm-e. But after
they had dug away souie of the pieces which had been
piled up, the water flowed over the ice beneath an<l
froze, and effectually st(>p))ed work. No sign of injury
could be seen outside, and nothing inside but the flow-
ing c*" the water, and, as far as may be judged from ap-
])earances, it would seem that the shi|)'s forefoot has
been broken off or twisted, staiting the garl>oard
strakes. Until we can free the sh'p from water we can

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

221

do nothing towards building a water-tight t)ulkhead
across the fore peak, and thus kee})ing the water leaiv
under control of the hand-pumps. As the water will
not come aft readily to the steam-pump, we 'uu.st get a
steam-pump forward to it, for men cannot stand pump-
ing from now till spring. Fortunatelj- we have a pump
in the engine-room which we can move forward to the
old galley-room and connect by a long series of pipes
to the main boiler, and that is susi-gested bv Melville
and commenced to be put into execution at midnight.

Everything was carried on regularly, quietly, and
systematically. There was no excitement and no con-
fusion. If we had to lenve the ship, our sledges were
ready on the poop packed with forty days' provisions,
our boats were ready to lower, and we had the two
dingys mounted on their sleds. Everybody had his
knapsack and sleeping-bag ready, and our records and
papers were iii condition to seal up in a box, but thank
God we had no occasion to experience that emergency.
Temperature slowly rises to minus 44"^. Early daylight
at (i.50. Clear and pleasant. Bright nu)oulight and
starlight. Consi;ie;able ice movement during day, and
continuou.) heavy pressiu-e.

Januartj 2()t/i, Tnesduij. — A very disagreeable fea-
ture in connection with our trouble is, that we have a
sick man on our hands (Danenhower), and his being
unable to help himself, in case of an extraordinary
emergency, makes it a ciiuse of serious anxiety to me.
The doctor was suddenly taken ill last night with a
bilious attack, and for a time l\\as (|uite alarmed about
him. But this mornini>: he seems to l)e on the nu'ud.
Mr. Dunbar is not strong yet, his recent sickness seem-
ing to have added twenty years to his age,

While we are in this uncertain state, there is not

'^1

'41

909

J'lIE VOYAGP: of I'llE JEANNKTTE

Ml.

much rest for Chipp, Melville, or myself ; and among
the men. Nindemann, Cole, and Sweetman seem to be
as unwilHng to take rest as ourselves. The last named
is not verv strong, and 1 fear woidd not stand a heaw
strain. But Nindemann seems to know no such thip.<«:
as fatigue. We do not gain much on the water, but
then the water does not gain on us. The auxiliary
steam-pump has been moved from the engine-room to
the old galley-room, and secured in place against the
berth deck bulkhead. Several repairs were made to it,
such as fitting new valves, etc., but we had not finished
running the line of piping to it from the main boiler by
the time the day closed. A connection will be nad with
the main boiler through the steam-whistle pipe. As
soon as we got the auxiliary pump in place we at-
tempted to run it by thi Baxter boiler, but the pump
was too much for it, taking awav all its steam almost
immediately. The forward Ijilge-pump is worked by
the watch, and at times we get the water down so low
that teu minutes' pumping and ten minutes' spell keep
the water in check. The How of water aft to the en-
gine-room is freer, enabling the .steam-pump to be run
fifteen minutes in everv half hour, giving a breathiny;
spell to the men. The boiler-pump exhausts into the
bilge, and the feed water is taken from the bilge, all
the sea cooks being frozen fast in their seats.

We cannot expect to free the ship by the hand-
pumps alone, and are waiting for the aid of the auxil-
iary steam-pump. It may seem strange tiiat so long a
time is required to get this in operation, but our ditH-
culties are enormous. To take a steam-pump down,
move it, and put it together is a long job alone, without
speaking of running steam-piping, all of which has to
be iitted. Every man has been worked up to the top

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

223

»g

laiu

auxil-
on<;" a
(litVi-
down.
ithout
has to
he top

notch of his strength, whether in engine work, at the
pumps, or carrying provisions aft ; and though there
seems but Httle described on this page, the day has
been spent in harder work than falls to the lot of most
men. Still everything is done quietly and with pre-
cision, and aided by Chipp and Melville, whose supe-
riors the navy cannot show, with their untiring energy,
splendid judgment, and fertility of device, I iim confi-
dent of being able to do all that man can do to carry
on the expedition to a safe termination.

Considerable ice movement and pressure during the
day. The ship has increased her heel to three degrees
to starboard, and floe and ship luive swung to south l)y
west one and one fourth points. Light breezes between
S. and W. all day, and temperature struggling up from
minus 44"" to minus 37°. The movement of the ice
seems to be to the eastward. There are numerous
ridges in sight where the floes have been broken and
piled up upon coming in contact. The floe around the
ship remains as yesterday, but when pressed yields in
hea- y surges which cause the ship to snap an<l crack.
A careful examination shows no sign of anything being
strained or broken inside below, in spite of the pressure ;
and from watching the incoming of the water we are
still of the opin'O" that the injury to the ship consists
of the breaking of the forefoot and the starting of the
garboard strakes.

Junuarij 21«(f, Wednesday. — The work of running
the line of steam-piping to the auxiliary steam-pump
in the galley-room was completed by one A. m. The
steam-pipe was, r >, I have before said, led to the steam-
whistle pipe, which of course communicated with the
main boiler. Upon turning on the steam the pipe was
found to be frozen, and steam would not pass. We

; H

f :U

' ft

904.

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

had, therefore, to take down the pipe and thaw it out.
This (lone, we tried again and got the pump to work,
but found the suction pipe too .small. We then re-
moved the bilge suction pipe from the main engine and
attached it to the auxiliary pump, and then the pump
worked all right to my great satisfaction, for I was able
to give our tired men a rest.

It was seven a. m. when we got the auxiliary pmnp
running, but we immediately succeeded in keeping the
water in check. By four r. M. we had got so much
ahead of the water that the fore peak was dry enough
to eonunence buildinu" a small bulkhead abaft of the
bow-filling to stop the leak there to some extent. The
water seemed to flow aft to the engine-pump more
readily to-day, and by pumping fif toen minutes in every
half hour in the engine-room, they kept that part of
the ship free. Occasionally we would even get the
auxiliary pump to suck, and we then drove pli.gs in the
holes which we had bored in the forward bulkhead of
the fore hold, and thus blocked up water enough to
keep the auxiliary going all the time. This gave a
spell to the men in the engine-room, and Melville (who
will not sleep or rest) set them to work to nuUce the
necessary forgings for his proposed connection of the
Baxter boiler to the forward spar deck bilge-pump.

There was considerable ice movement during the day,
and tremendous pressure. The ship received many
severe shocks, but these «lid not seem to increase the
leak. I am rather inclined to think that a broken piece
of floe lias been shoved under her. and tluit she has
been lifted above some of the pressure. She has risen
two inches above her old line of flotation, which we
have determined by marks made where her snow em-
bankment came originally. The .ship heels '6° to star-

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

225

ave a

(wlio

e the

if the

le (hiy,
many
se the
piece
le has
Is risen
,ch we
w eni-
star-

boartl. I am a little afraid that there rnay be some
accident to the stern-post and rudder-post from this ex-
cessive longitudinal pressure, although the fullness of
the ship's counters may receive and take up a great
deal of the strain.

Much hard work fall;^ upon two men, Nindemann and
Sweetinan. These two luive to take tin-ns about in
standing in the water in the fore peak, building the
bulkhead across it. Nindemann seems strong enouy-h
for everything, but this kind of work tells on Sweet-
man, and I have once or twice feared that he would
break down. Whiskey is served out to them once
every four hours, and a generous supply of food and
coft'ee is nuule for such other men as have night work,
and I thus try to keep e-'erybody up to his strength.
Cliipp and myself take twelve hours' watch, each, look-
ing out generally for Avork, and watching the ice care-
fully for emergencies. This is like living over a pow-
der magazine with a train laid ready for firing. Mel-
ville, when he does go below, instead of sleeping, lies
awake planning some new means of pumping a ship by
steam, which will be more economical than the main
lioilers. Danenhower is, of course, out of the case alto-
gether.

Januftry 'lid, Thursday. — As the water was becom-
ing low enough in the fore peak to work to advan-
tage, commenced cutting and fitting ])lauking for the
erection of water-tight bulkhead across the fore peak
twenty inches forward of the foremost side of the foi-e-
mast, at the step. We also cut holes in the ceihng
above the berth deck on each side, and shoved down be-
tween the frames as much ashes and picked felt as the
spaces would hold. These things filled up all spaces
down to the filling between the cant frames, say two

226

THE VOYAfiE OF THE JEANNETTE.

feet from the keelson, and towards the close of the day
they seemed to have the effect of dimimshin<!; the leak.
We had to keep the auxiliary steam-pmnp, in the old
galley-room, going all the time, however, and in the
afternoon discovered a crack in its suction pipe. Re-
paired it, and at the same time Melville added two
lengths to it, so as to make the end piece lie horizon-
tally in the bilge. This seemed to add to the efficiency
of the pump, and we materially reduced the water.
The limber holes under the coal bunkers seemed to have
become more thawed or otherwise cleared, for the accu-
mulated water ilowed aft more Ireely, and was pumped
out by the engine-room pump running one half the
time. After noon only water enough came aft to en-
gine-room to feed the boiler. The engineer's force are
having plenty of work ; for in addition to tending the
boiler and steam-pumps, Melville keeps them at work
making forgings and other fittings for our proposed
connection of the Baxter boiler to the deck bilge-pump.
Edison's electro-dynamic machine cofnes in handy, for
we have taken its shaft to fit as a counter-shaft for the
pumping.

Upon digging out the fire-hole to-day, preparatory to
recommencing soundings, we struck hard, solid ice at a
depth of four feet, which so completely closed the fire-
hole from l)elow that we could not get a lead down. I
believe now that when we sustained the severe longi-
tudinal pressure the advancing floe slid under the floe
in which the ship is imbedded (for she lifted forward
two inches), and now lies under her as far aft as her
mainmast. No doubt it was this advancing floe which
broke the forefoot.

The depth of water in the ship to-day is as fol-
lows : —

!■• ^"

;-f iJ,

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

227

22 in.

At step of foremast

At Jiuxiliary pump suction,

just forward chain lockers 24 in.
At after bulkhead fore hold 20 in.
At iire-room bilge . . 10 in.

4 1-. M.

18| in.

21] in.
27 in.
20 in.

Mi(liiij,'h:.
11) in.

10 in.
lU in.
llt.^ in.

The day opened clear excepting a hank of cuniulo-
stratiis and stratus clouds to W. and S. W. Rising
barometer from 80.05 to 30.2(S, and temperature falling
to minus 37° at noon and rising to minus 28° at mid-
night. Early daylight at 7.30. High dawn. At noon
rosy Hush in sky to southward, showing clearly the
position of the sun.

Danenhower's case has so far become worse that the
doctor to-day informed me that unless an operation
■were performed he would in all probability lose the
sight of his left eye. The circumstances of our sur-
roundings, the poor accommodations for sick people,
and the possible emergency of our having to abandon
the ship and take to the tloe, make the performance of
the necessary operation a risky affair for Danenhower.
For, shoidd he be exposed to hardships and privations
incidental to a march over the ice, he would quite
probably lose the eye. Under the circumstances I ad-
vised the doctor to give Danenhower a voice in decid-
ing for or against the operation. After some consider-
ation Danenhower decided to have it done, and it was
beautifully performed by Dr. Ambler, and ■ '■>rne with
heroic endurance by the patient. I hardly knew which
to admire the most, the skill and celerity of the sur-
geon, or the nerve and endurance of Danenhower.

January 2M, Friday. — A continuance of the same
story : a leaky ship requiring all our endeavors to keep
her free. The auxiliary steam-pump in the old galley-

. i

228

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

room is goiii*^ all the time, and the stoam-pump in the
engine-i'ooin about one halt" the time. Nindemann and
►Sweetman (the only two men who can be trusted not to
break tools in this cold weather) stand watch and watch
day and night in the fore peak building the bulkhead.
By midnight all but the last upright plank is in place,
and stringers and braces are being fitted abaft of it to
resist pressure when the water comes against it. Early
in the morning we broke out a barrel of plaster of Paris,
which had been provided for the naturalist's use, and
we shoved that down between the frames, hoping it would
mix with the water there and harden to a cement. We
also rannned down another lot of ashes and picked felt.

T he ship is
wretchedly wet
and uncomfortable.
The berth deck is
kept moist f r o m
the endless travel
along it to the fore
peak ; the galley-
room is wet, of
course, from drip-
pings from auxili-

From Mr Newcomb's Sketch. arV V) U Ul U ' t ll P

deck-house is wet from the Baxter, and the (juarter
deck is covered with ice or sludge from the fire-hose
discharge. The outlook is somewhat discouracrina: when
contrasted with the ambitious beginning of the voyage.
But as the darkest hour is just before the dawn, we
may have a l)rlglit spot in our future.

January 2oth. Sunday. — Pump, pump, pump — the
same old story. As fast as we pump out, the water
€omes in. Nindemann and Sweetman, by hard work

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

229

together all day, finished calking the bulkhead across
the fore peak. If I kept these men continuously at
work, I suppose in three days I should have Sweet-
man on the sick list. Nindemann will overtax ills groat
strenj^th without admitting that he is fatitjued. So as
all our skilled carpenters' labor is in these two I must
husband their strength as much as possible. Some
would-be wise person may ask why I did not employ the
whole ship's company, and why 1 limit the work to two
men ? To such a question 1 here reply that the work
of stopping or controlling this leak effectually must be
well done and by skillful hands — and space as well as
other considerations permit of these two only.
. At l.oO p M. I read divine service in the cabin. The
day opened clear and pleasant, with very fine snow dust
and light E. N. E. airs. From ten a. m. to three v. m.
the atmosphere was remarkably clear. At twelve, from
aloft was seen the upper limb of the sun much distorted
by refraction.

Danenhower's case is again becoming very disquiet-
ing. The continued confinement is telling on his gen-
eral health, and his failing to improve under treatment
worries him greatly. Being of a very sensitive nature,
he feels that he is not doing any duty for the expedi-
tion, and that worries him. We try to encourage him
all we can. He accepts our kind words at their full
value, but knows they do not in any way alter facts.
The doctor is very anxious about him, and speaks of the
stubbornness of the case and the probable necessity of
another operation. My anxieties are beginning to crowd
on me. A disabled and leaking ship, a e.eriously sick
officer, and an uneasy and terrible pack, with a con-
stantly diminishing coal pile, and at a distance of 200
miles to the nearest Siberian settlement — these are
enough to think of for a lifetime.

1 1 •

r*.

■r ti

230

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXET'I K.

January 2Cith Monday. — The bcghuiing of this day
finds UH at our usual occupation : running pumps and
trying to stop leaks. We continue to hold our own
against the water, and that is about all. Of course our
bulkhead across the fore peak presents no obstacle
to the passage of water aft between the ceiling and
planking, and the ashes and plaster of Paris have not
got down to the Ijottom of the spaces between the
frames. We therefore set to work to-day to rip out
the ceiling above and below the bilge strake on each
side. This was a hard operation, for the ceiling below
the bilge strake is of teak, and had to be literally splin-
tered out. The ceiling above was of lighter material
and more easily removed. All day was required to do
the work, and to stuff oakum down well alongside the
keelson, and drive plugs wherever a jet of water showed
itself. We had the satisfaction, however, of seeing
some good results, for as we plugged up below the
water came up and out above ; and, therefore, if we can
succeed in filling up the frame spaces there will be so
much less room for water to flow through, and we may
dam it up in the fore peak. Unfortunately all this
takes time, and, while we are progressing slowly, our
coal is burning rapidly at the rate of nearly a ton a day.

We moved the Baxter engine and boiler forward to-
day, and connected it with the gearing made by Mel-
ville to the spar deck bilge-pump. It worked beauti-
fully, doing as much work as the auxiliary pump. The
event of the day, however, was the reappearance of
the sun ! the sun ! in all his power and majesty. All
hands turned out to see him and to enjoy his light
while it lasted. The pleasing novelty of seeing genu-
ine sun shadows for the first time in seventy-one days
was thoroughly refreshing. Although the glare was

I ■ i-

I 0.

THE DEAD OF WINTER.

2M1

trying to the eyes, niiiking mu blink like an owl at
first, 1 could not get enough of the pleasant sight.

I noticed, upon examining carefully every one who
came near me, that we have a bleached appearance,
which is, I suppose, natural to all Arctic voyagers, and
not to be wondered at, considering our steady living
by lam[)light, and the difhculty of getting proper ex-
ercise in this low temperature. However, we are all
liealthy with one or two exceptions, and I think we
may congratulate ourselves on having passed the night
of the Arctic regions so successfully.

As if to give us as nuich light as possible on this
eventful day, when the sun was on the meridi<an to the
southward, the full moon was on the meridian at the
northern horizon, so that for these twenty-four hours
we had either sunlight or full moonlight all the time.
We managed to find a piece of floe some little distance
from the ship, which had not been underridden by a
second floe, and we cut through it and sounded in
thirty fathoms, muddy bottom, with no indicated drift.

Our old friend, the north side of Wrangel Land,
was in sight to-day quite plainly after the sun went
down, on about the ssme beanngs as when last seen
and recorded.

The Ivrry Gul'.

I ' «

CHAPTER VII.

THE liKTUItX OF DAYLIGHT.

MvF

27 January — Mdich, IHHO.

The Prpssnre on the Ship. — Diminution of the Leali. — Lunar
llalos. — Hears and Bear Meat. — Eiii,'ineerin«^ C'ontriviinces.
— Tiie Amount of Salt in Ice. — Experience of Weyprecht and
Morse. — Condition of the Dogs. — Forehodings. — ()i)servation
under Dilliculty. — Washington's Hirthday. — Protection for tlie
Eyes. — Ciieerfuhiess of the Crew. — Tiie Tliermometers. — 1 h\\ i-
age to the Ship. — Trench Digging. - Soundings and Drift. —
Fresli Potatoes. — An Auroral Display. — Examination of Dr.
Kane's and Dr. Walker's Statements of the Presence of Salt in
Ice. — St. Patrick's Day. — Ice Formation.

January "11 th, Tinxdaij. — The day begins clear anrl
ploasant, 'vvitli briglit starlight and moonlight, and a
light air from E. b^ A. At one a. m. it fell calm, and
almost immediately after a ligiit ai'' came out from W.
by N. No sooner had the shift occurred, although the
wind was so light as not to turn the anemometer cups,
than the ice began to move. I am convinced by thi>
time that although the ice is subject to a ti<' ' v non.
it is also quite sensitive to wind. With >• wind

we and the ice drift together, as a general ag, with-
out risk or confusion. But let a sudden slii't U the
westward occur and we bring up all standing, an»i are
beaten back with a pressure that makes us in trouble
again. If, therefore, there is open water in this part
of the world at this season of the year, it is to the

•!*£. i'^^'^tWHlthMli

TIIK UKIUKN OF DAYMCIIT.

t) o >t

wostwanl of us tovvnrfl the Now Sihcrijin Isliinds. At
two and three a. m.. and two, three, live. eiti,ht. nine,
and eleven i'. m., the i 'e was in motion, ^rindinj:; and
groaninj^ to tiie 8. W. and close to ns. The ship was
nipi)ed on these ooeasions, and erac^ked and snapjx'd
loudly, all the pressure seeinin<^ to eoine abal't the main-
mast. At the last nijjping I was down in the tore penk
lookint^ at the leak, and had no knowled<^e of the ice
l)ein<5 in motion, no sound either of motion or pressure
ha\.'nj5 reached me. Upon coming aft Mr. Neweomh
met me with the information that the ioo had squeezed
us hard. The cabin door keeps a good re(!ord of the
scpieezing, for at times it takes two of us to open it. al-
though a good bit of it has been planed away. When
the pressure subsides, it does so without our being able
to detect it otherwise than by the easy manner in
which the door opens. The beams of the poop seem a
little bowed out of shape from these repeated squeezes
of the frames to which they are bolted.

Weather, as a general thing, cloudy and overcasti
We did not, therefore, see the sun to-day.

At the beginning of these twenty-four hours the lim-
bers under the coal bunkers seemed to become entirely
clear, for the water came aft as pure as sea-water, and
with such freedom that the auxiliary pump speedily
sucked. It was, therefore, stopped, and all the work
wa.s brought on the Sewell pump in the engine-room.
To our great relief this, ruiniing at the rate of fifty
strokes a minute, held the water in check, and as the
ready flow of water aft kept the fore peak much drier,
we are able to proceed with good effect in the plaster-
ing and ramming of oakum. Although we have had
to work hard and wait patiently for results, the re rults
have come at last and give us good heart to proceed.

284

THE VOYASE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Melville, upon calculating the work done by this pump,
showed that it was punipinj; out of the ship 2,250 (gal-
lons per hour, and holding the water in check. This
may be taken, therefore, as the amount of the leak to-
day, which, compared with the amount pumped out
per hour on the 2od, 3,oGo gallons, shows that we have
diminished iae leak over one third. We are still *at
work at the spaces, and cannot hope to get the work
completed so as to try the Baxter combination bilge-
pump before Friday or Saturday night.

Jduiiary 'I'^tli, Wednesday. — The success achieved
by the filling in spaces holds good to-day, for all the
pumping has been dor<^ by the Sewcll-pump, running
fifty strokes per minute, at which rate the water is pre-
vented from gaining ou us. Water in fire-room bilge,
eighteen inches at eight A. m., seventeen and one half
inches at four p. m., and sixteen inches at midnight.
Nindemann and Sweetman worked all day from nine
A. M. to eleven p. m. in filling up spaces, etc., and they
are doing a marvelous amount of work. We cut holes
through the ceiling to-day above the berth deck to get
spaces filled in above the water line, if possible ; and wo
are slowly but surely advancing to the time when we
can try if tlie Baxter can keep us dry to the great sav-
ing of our coal pile.

The ice moved at 6.15 A. m., and 6.50 p. m., in the
S. W. near the ship, and caused us to experience a
moderate nip. Except from the snapping and crack-
ing of our bolts and timbers, we are not disturbed.
When soundings were taken to-day, new ice to the
depth of eight inches had to be cut away, the result of
twenty-four hours direct freezing. The floe, through
Avhich the hole was cut originally, had a thickness of
twenty-four inches direct freezing since January I'Jth,

' , I ■

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

235

we
we
lav-

for this was one of the water lanes opened in the smash
up at that time.

January 2dthy IVmraday. — I am able to record a
still further diminution of the leak. Tlie work of fill-
ing in the spaces between frames, etc., lias proceeded
all day, and we now find that the Sewell piini]), run-
ning forty strokes a minute, has been ^ble to hold the
water in check. The amount of water pumped out lias
been 1,800 gallons per hour; and comparing this with
the 2,250 gallons per hour on the 27th, shows that two
days' work by Nindemann and Sweetman has dimin-
ished our leak 450 gallons per hour. The work is still
proceeding. In order still further to economize coal a
stove was started in the deck-house to-dav instead of
continuing a fire in the Baxter. Heat is necessary to
save the spar deck bilge-pump from freezing, but when
we can save it by burning fifty pounds a day instead of
one hundred pounds, we are bound to save the fifty.

January oOth, Friday. — Nindemann and Sweetman
continue their slow and tedious job of stuffing plaster
of Paris and ashes in the spaces between frames, etc.
The water, being unable to get abaft the fillings read-
ily, rises between the frames and the outside planking
and trickles out under the berth deck at the shelf. Still
we are gaining on the leak, and 1 lu)[)e that \\ hen we
get the spaces filled up inside to a level with the water
outside, and have choked up the limbo Isoles in the
cant frames (for I beli*. ve they exist), so that we have
got a ready means of passage interrupted, we shall be
able to keep water out of her to a reasonable extent
by the use of the spar deck bilge-pump connected with
the Baxter boiler.

Melville, with his never-failing readiness of resource,
has commenced a piece of work by which he will run a

286

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

St:^^

'i'l

bilge-puinp belonging to the main engine by the steam-
cutter's engine and boiler, .so that if he can pump out
the bulk ot" the water t'orwartl by the Baxter rig, he
can take Ciire of what comes aft with the steam-cutter's
rig. We are, of cour.se, husbanding our fuel to the
utmost, and since stopping the auxiliary pump have
greatly reduced our expenditure. iSounded at noon in
twenty-nine and one half fathoms, muddy bottom. A
slight drift indicated to N. W. Early daylight at 0.30.
Upon cutting through the ice for soundings ten inches
growth in one d;iy liad to be cut awiiy. At five p. m.
a slight ice movement occurred one hundred and fifty
Viirds to southward of the .ship, causing her to experi-
ence a moderate nip. At 5.40 a meteor, in falling from
S. towards S. W., showed a blue colored light. At
seven, faint auroral gleams in N. At eleven and mid-
night, a lunar halo 0^ in diameter, .'^bowing prismatic
colors; and at the last named hour a faint auroral arch
from E. to W. 00" in altitude to northward. Tempera-
ture fluctuating ; beginning at minus 30° it goes down
to minus 12", and ends the dav at minus 39".

We are ccitainly having enough cold weather this
month, but since the sun came l)ack we do not mind it
much. The pleasure of being out in the sunlight will
make us forget the cold. But generally we have had
light airs about noon since old Sol's return, and l)y
looking out for our noses we can go about with im-
j)unity.

Janiuiry 31s/, Sniifrdit/. — The day opens and con-
tinues plea^^ant and clear, except a haze which hangs
around the horizon. At one A. M. a lunar lialo was ob-
served, C in diameter, and showing prismatic colors. (I
have remarked that the.se lunar halos are with us al-
most positive evidence of ice openings in our neighbor-

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

237

hood ; the liberation of water at a temperature of 29''
or 30° to the action of the air at uiinus 29° or minus
00"" always occasions a mist, which, rising by natural
laws, interposes between us and the moon and causes
LIS to see that luminary dimly. As its distance from us
increase's it forms the halo. Snow dust occasions a sim-
ilar phenomenon with the same peculiarity of color.)
At eleven the sun was about 3° above the horizon, be-
ing much raised by refraction. At six a. Yl. faint auro-
ral arches or bands shedding diffused light.

We succeeded to-day in thawing the delivery-pipe in
the ship's side, so as to discharge the water through it
instead of pumping it through the fire connection on
deck, and that saves us from a steady fear of the hose
freezing up.

February \st, Sunday. — We ended the month of
January with the steam-pump going, and we com-
menced the new month of February in like manner.
The steam-pmnp is kept going all day, and although it
is the only one working manages to hold the water in
check, going forty strokes a minute, equivalent to pump-
ing out of the ship 2,250 gallons an hour.

At midnight, ending this day, Nindemann and Sweet-
man had managed to clear the limbers completely on
one side of the ship chock aft to the (ire-room, and in
consequence the water flows aft as freely as it enters.
At one p. M. the Articles of War were read and the men
mustered, after which I inspected the ship. Of course,
everything forward was dam|) and disagreeable, but we
can hope for no better luck with two thousand two
hundred and fifty gallons coming into her per lioui'.
At l.oO I read divine service in the cabin. At eleven
A. M. an Arctic fox (white) was seen close to the ship.
The dogs went for it, and the poor thing ran for the

238

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

|i <:

I, ,>i '

gimg-["liuik, as if to come on board for protection.
Alex(^_), however, met it with his rilie and killed it.
In its stomach were found some lenunings' tails and
nothing else. Innnediately thereafter a bear appeared,
and Chipp succeeded in killing it, and to my great sat-
isfaction we have again fresh meat hanging in the rig-
ging. The bear weighs about four hundred pounds,
and its stomach is absolutely empty. I hail with great
satisfaction this evidence of animal life, for it Avill
enable me to make a very acceptable change from our
canned meat diet. In coimectiou with this subject, I
may as well remark here that beyond a doubt canned
fresh meat is far superior to salt provisions. But it
rcijuires a greater auiount to satisfy hunger, and one
soDU becomes weary of it because of its tastelessness.
All canned meat seems to taste alike. Such a thing
as canned turkey and caimed chicken is a delusion
and a snare. There is such a hopeless confusion of
suiashed bones and suudl ])ieces of meat that we have
unanimously called the resulting dish a '" railroad ac-
cident."

At nine v. m. a meteor was oK«erved falling from
N. E. to E. At ten the ice connnenced to grind and
move, the general (.irectijn of the movement being
from S. to N. At midniglit the sky became suddenly
completely overcast, and while I was concluding that
this sudden darkness was due to ice openings presenting
warmer water to cold air, my conclusions were verified
by the ship receiving some severe nips. A careful ex-
amination of the surrounding ice shewed no sign of dis-
turbance, nor was there a sound of movement any-
where. But I am satisfied that there was an ice opening
somewhere near the ship.

Fehruarij 2cl, Jlonday. — Upon calling me this morn-

11! II

THE HETURN OF I)AYLI(;HT.

239

ini^, tlio steward ijiloniiod lue that another bear had
been killed, " and that he had tried to ^et in the deek-
hoiise." Supposin<^ that we had become careless in
lookout, or the bears had made an invasion, 1 turned
out. and in(|uired. The facts were that a bear had come
near tiie ship at seven A. m., his presence beiny denoted
by the dogs retreating on board in a body and manning
the rail, barking at his bearship. While the quarter-
master was sunnnoning Chipp, the bear, attracted by
the meat of his brother already hung up to a girtline,
attempted to clind) up the ship's side to get on top of
the deck-house, but fell back. Seeing the gangway
board, and recognizing its use no doubt, he was about
to march up it, when Mr. Dunbar appeared at the rail
and fired at iiiii'. The bear, wounded only, made off,
and the dogs followed him. He sat down to keep the
dogs at bay with his fore paws, bleeding very freely,
and in that position Mr. Dunbar dispatched him. He
was eight feet one inch long and weighed nine hun-
dred pounds, forming a welcome addition and change
to our larder. His stomach contained several small
stones resembling pieces of slate, and nothing else.
Alexey while out this morning saw a walrus, and
brought back a shell which he had heaved up. For a
wonder Alexey was without liis gun, or else we might
have laid in a supply of dog food. Our fish, except
forty days' rations packed on the sleds, is all gone, Ije-
ing finished to-day, and we must now commence on our
prepared dog food of meat and bones supplied by Mr,
Newman at St. Michael's. We find considerable breaks
in the ice near the ship this morning, accounting for
the sudden cloudiness and haze at midnight last night.

Melville keeps on making the combination of the
steam-cutter's engine and boiler to the bilge-pump of

m i
i .1

H ;

'•>[}'

'i.Ul

240

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

the miiin engine. He tried the combination to-day,
using steam from the main boiler, and found that the
engine had to run so fast to develop the necessary
power to work the pump without the engine catching
on the centre that the pump was driven too fast to lift
any water. Hence he has to malce a gearing to regu-
late the work of the pumj), and, energetic as he is, to
see an improvement is to connuence to make it. At
one r. m. the ice began to move, and from that time
vmtil eight p. M. we were getting nips and pressures
at a few moments' interval. We are so accustomed
to these alarms now that we take them quietly, thank-
ful when they end, and knowdng we are helpless pend-
ing their duration.

February Ath. Wedneschiy. — The Sewell pump 'v^
kept going all day as usual, but we find that by run-
ning it thirty-five strokes a minute we hold the water
in check ; that is, keep it at a uniform depth of sixteen
inches in the fire-room. We have reduced the amount
of leak 282 gallons an hour within th'! last few days,
and 1,695 gallons an hour since the first occurrence.
Were it not for the expenditure of fuel we should be
doing first rate ; but when we burn 1,200 pounds of
coal a day, and have only eighty-five tons left to-day,
it is not only a matter of simple calculation to find out
how long it will last, but it seems to make our staying
out another winter a matter of considerable doubt. We
are driving ahead, trying to hurry up the steam-cutter
arrangement, hoping, while the Baxter pumps forward,
the cutter-engine will pump out aft, and let us do away
with fires under the main boiler. This will reduce our
coal expenditure fifty per cent. Nindemann and Sweet-
man have aljout finished the filling in business, watch-
ing; their work now to ram in more ashes as fast as old
fillings settle.

Tin; IIKTUUN OF DAYLIGHT.

241

The surgeon hands me in the report of his monthly
examination. The men arc generally in good condi-
tion, and there is some falling off among the ofiicers in
weight. Danenhower's case is pronounced a very crit-
ical one, it being a matter of certainty almost that he
will lose the sight of his left eye. The condition of
the officers is classed thus : excellent, one ; good, live ;
fair, one ; poor, one. Of the twenty-three men, excel-
lent, eighteen ; good, five ; and the natives are in ex-
cellent health. We commenced to get our provisions
in some kind of order on the quarter deck and in the
deck-house. When the leak occurred, everything was
hurriedly broken out of the hold and store-rooms for-
ward and placed anywhere.

Fehruarij [>th, Thiirsdni/. — The Sewell pump Is kept
going all day at the rate of thirty-live strokes a minute,
holding the water in check with that work ; sixteen
inches of water stand in the fire-room bilge all day.
Lest any one should read this Journal without my being
on hand to explain the question. Why is not the sixteen
inches pumped out at once, and the ship kept dry at
the rate of thirty-five strokes of the pump per minute?
it may as well be answered here : The ship is heeled
3° to starboard, and naturally the greatest accumula-
tion of water takes place on that side. But the suction
of the Sewell pump is on the port side of the keelson,
and the only communication from one bilge to the other
is by a small hole about large enough for a piece of
eiu-hteen thread ratline stuff to reeve through. We
tried to bore larger holes, but the keelson is so full of
bolts and fastenings as to stop us. Hence the water
must be allowed to rise until it will flow over the keel-
son to port, in order to take it out by the Sewell pump.

Melville keeps driving ahead at his combination of

242

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

the steam-cutter's engine with the bilge-pump of the
main engine. Everything now is waiting for that. It
is possible that I might pump all the water out by the
power of the Baxter engine connection with the for-
ward spar-deck bilge-pump (or, at all events, keep a
good control over the leak), were it not that some water
wovdd come aft to the water-tight bulkhead. If this
is not pumped out it will at once freeze, unless a fire
is kept going to heat up the engine-room while it
is pumped out by hand. Pumping by hand will use up
my crew, and should we be obliged to leave the ship in
a sudden smash-up, I would have an exhausted body
of men to lead over the ice two hundred miles to a set-
tlement. If the water freezes in the ship, more damage
may be done in a day than we could repair in a month.
To keep up fire enough to prevent its freezing while
we pumped by hand, would use up as much coal as is
now required for the main boiler. Hence the wisdom
of burning that amount of coal in the manner which
will save exhausting the men. If the steam-cutter's
engine will do the work with the Baxter boiler forward
doing its share, we shall save one half our fuel, or in
other words, make it last twice as long.

From nine A. m. until three p. m. the north side of
Wrangel Land was in sight. Measuring with the sex-
tant from the sun at noon we "'et the followinu; bear-
ings : Most eastern visible extremity of land S. 13" W.,
most western visible extremity S. 21° W., direction of
ship's head S. 49^ W. It is quite evident to me that
but a portion of the land was seen this time, for upon
other occasions it covered a much greater angle, and our
cliange of position, in the mean time, has been toward
it instead of away from it. Early dawn at six. At
eleven the ice was in motion to the S. E.

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

248

February Qth, Friday. — The rig whereby the steaiii-
cutter's engine it is lioped will work the bilge-pump
attached to main engine being finished, trial is hud of
it to-day, getting steam from the main boiler. I am
sorry to say the trial is unsatisfactory. The engine is
not powerful enough to do the work which the pump
is prepared for. A description of the apparatus may
well come in here On the shaft of the steam-cutter's
engine is secured a wooden pulley six inches in diameter.
Above it is secured a frame and shaft to the hanging
coal bunker, and on the shaft is placed another wooden
pulley eighteen inches in diameter. Around the two
pulleys is an endless belt. On the end of the upper
shaft is a crank, which, by a connecting rod, works a
break attached to the bilge-pump. Theoretically it
ought to work, but practically it does not, for this rea-
son : The discharge pipe of the pump is long, and has
many angles before it reaches the ship's side. The
pump being a force-pump of six inches stroke, and the
engine being four and a half by six inches, were the
delivery at the pump, it would be an easy matter ; but
as the delivery has to be made through a sinuous pipe
one and a half inches in diameter, the water chokes in
the pip>^ in such a way as to make the little engine
struggle and labor, and occasionally come to a stand.
Greater steam pressure would force the water no doubt,
but the little engine would not stand the racket. While
Melville was trying in every way to solve the difficulty,
it was discovered that the delivery in the ship's side
was frozen, and while we were thawing it out the day
ended. Should no better result occur, Melville will go
to work to make the pump smaller by inserting two
small plungers and fdling it with Babbitt's metal. The
day opens and continues fine. Temperature increases

\ri>.

244

THE VOYACIK OF THE JEANNEriE.

from minus 32° to minus 23', and falls again to minus
2C) \ Eiy;lit inches ot" ice formed over soundiiiy; hole
since yesterday. Upon attempting to measure the
present thickness of the tloe, which, on the 4th, was
five feet four inches thick, it was found that another
floe had shoved in imder it. I am inclined to think that
has been the case .all around us, and that perhaps our
controlling the leak has been due to the underlying
floes of ice uniting by freezing and lowering the water
head in the vicinitv of the leak. If that be the case,
we shall have our hands full again at a breaking up.

February 1th, Saturday. — I remarked in yesterday's
journal that we discovered the pipe of the main engine
bilge-pump frozen solid, and that while we were thaw-
ing it the day closed. At the same time the crank was
shortened so as to diminish the stroke of the steam-
cutter's en<>:ine. Every thinji; being in readiness we gave
the rig another trial, but it would not work satisfacto-
rily. True, it did pump Avater, but with such jerky
and labored efforts on the part of the engine that we
could readily see it was being overtaxed. The pump
was too large for the engine. The rig was therefore
discontinued, while Melville put his people at work to
boush the pump with Babbitt's metal, and insert a
smaller plunger, converting a single-acting piston-pump
of six inches diameter into a single-acting plunger-pump
of three inches diameter. This Avill take a couple of
days, and in the mean time steam must be kept on the
main boiler. At the end of the day I am thinking of
trying the Baxter pump alone.

At nine the sun was raised a fidl diameter above the
horizon by refraction. Extraordinary mirage from nine
until afternoon. Extremely variable winds, at times
shifting sixteen points at once. Mirage affected by

'f'i.

h \'\ \

\h. f.

THE llETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

245

sliifts of wind. Wrangol Land sighted S. by W. At
two it was much ruised by refraction and inverted by

mirage.

Fehruarif S(h. Sunday. — Upon inspecting the sliip at
noon to-(hiy I found the temperature in the deck-liouse
to l)e 18", and lest our bilge-pumps should freeze be-
yond our control, I ordered a fire to be lighted under
the Baxter boiler. As it will be several days before the
work is finished which Melville has on hand, I thought
this would be a good chance to see whether we could
control the leak by the Baxter and the bilge-pump
alone. Accordingly when steam was ready in the Bax-
ter we closed, or rather attempted to close, the gates
in the water-tight bulkhead. The port gate went down
all right, but the starboard one seemed to be out of
gear, for we could not get it down all the way, nor
open it wide. To get at the gates, access must be had
to a little space between the after bulkhead of the fore-
hold and the forward side of the coal bunker. We com-
menced to break out the provisions and other stores
with which this space is filled. The work of pumping
the water, up to three P. m., had been done by running
the Sewell pump thirty-five strokes per minute. When
the Baxter commenced to run, the Sewell was put in
operation only fifteen minutes in every hour. But it
must be borne in mind that the bilge-pump suction is
six inches from the bottom, and that the water has to
flow over the keelson in the fire-room before the pump
can take it. Our experiment has come to nothing, be-
cause, owing to leaky gate, water will flow aft into fire-
room, and a pump must be kept going there.

I found the ship in as orderly a condition as could be
expected under the circumstances. Everything being
broken out from below forward, had to be piled up in

246

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTK.

i>ir^\

I ^ A, S

tlio (Icck-house and on the qnarter deck. The ])erth
deck was damp, considerable moisture standing on the
beams overliejid. Until this injury to the whip the crew
always had the deck-house to go to for a change, but
now most of the time has to be passed on the berth
deck because the deck-house is full. With a tempera-
ture ranging between minus 40" and minus 47° they
cannot be sent out for very long from the ship, and as
there is no open water we have no seals to occupy our
attention Ifead divine service in the cabin.

We are being favored with beautiful weather. It is
so long since we have had a strong wind that I cannot

O CD

remember when we had our last. The sun shows up
brightly day after day, the daylii^it grows longer stead-
ily, lasting now from seven a.m. to five p. m., the niglits
are bright with starlight, the ice seems quiet, and were
it not for cold snaps that keep us shut up, we should
get over numy a mile of ice in exercise, in celel)ration
of our farewell to our Arctic night. Chipp and myself
still stand our twelve-hour watches ; he from four
A. M. to four p. M., and I from four p. m. to four a. m.
This is rather wearing, for it obliges me to turn part of
our day into night in order to get enough sleep, but as
Danenhower is still hors de combat, there is no one to
make share it — unless I include Dunbar, and I do not
do so, because, in the critical condition of things I am
of opinion that some one should be around at all times
with full authority to act promptly and decidedly, and
the fewer people have that authority the better.

The day began and continues clear and pleasant, but
■with considerable haze around the horizon. Winds be-
ginning at N. W. back to W. Barometer begins 29.93
and rises to 30.04 ; the temperature begins minus 42°,
and by nine a. m. reaches minus 49.5°. when mercurial

;i ■li.

TIIH HETUI5N OF UAYLIGIIT.

247

thcrmorpetors dorllno to work ]oii;j^er and tho mercury
freezes solid; spirit tliermometer No. 4,402, at that time
reads minus 47° and goes down 2° more before end of
day. As the spirit thermometers are not reliable it is
safe to assert that it has been to-dny below minus Oir.

An alarming amount of carbonic r"id gas, 5..'>()4 vol-
umes per thousand, or .5304 per cent., was found on
the berth deck at eleven p. m. Seeking for a cause I
found that in the press of things re(|uiriiig our atten-
tion of late, the iron ventilating pipe over the berth
deck skylight had not been ke|)t clear of ice, being in
fact chock full of a solid mass, and effectually previ'ut-
ing the exit of foul air or the entrance of fresh air.
Had it cleared.

February dth, Monday. — 'There is very little to re-
cord to-day in the form of a change. Resuming work
e:rly this morning we broke out all the provisions and
other stores contained in the little store-room, between
fore hold and coal bunkers, in order to get at the flood-
gates. We found that the port gate was tightly closed,
and that no water flowed through on that side. On
the starboard side, however, the case was dilferent.
Owing to an accumulation of rust and dirt, the long
rod from the spar deck extending to the end of the
screw thread on the spindle working the gate failed to
bite the screw thread, so that turn the rod as we might
it would neither close nor open the gate. Clearing
away the dirt and rust we finally got the gate shut,
but found that enough water leaked through into the
engine-room to require the Sewell pump to be kept
running fifteen minutes every hour. However we are
holding our own. This experiment had to be tried be-
fore we attempted to rely on the steam-cutter engine
doing the work which might escape from the Baxter

: I

i'.?

248

TFIE VOY :GI, of THE JE ANNETTE.

pump. Wo arc satisfied that it can, and now we must
see if our gate can be made so tight as to make the
IJaxtei" engine do all the work. To get at the gate we
have to rip up a heavy flooring and tiiat takes time.

Febrwirii U)fh, Tuesduy. — Upon getting down to
the <>:ates in the water-tiii-ht bulkhead we found that
tiio starboard one was neither broken nor sprung, both
seeming porfectly tight, that is. no leak was apparent
through them. There must, therefore, l^e •^ome leak
through l.etween the frames and the jjlanking to ac-
count for the water finding its way abaft this bulkhead,
but as it is imjjossible for us to get at its exact localitj^,
Ave can as yet see no way of remedying it. By run-
ning the Sewell pump sometimes five and sometnnes
ten iniiuites every hour, we hold the water in check in
the fire-room bilge ; while as fast as the water banks
up forward of the water-tight bulkhead it is pumped
out by the bilge-pump run by the Baxter engine. This
is, however, kej)t running nearly all the time.

Fchruary Villi. T/iur.-i((ai/. — Although unal)le to find
any leak through the water-tight bulkhead, the carpen-
ters (Nindemann and Sweetman) have been employed,
touching and filling up all doubtful places. By the
stupidity of one of the firemen (Boyd) we were able
this )aorning to decude that the leak does not occur in
the bulkhead itself or through the gates. In order to
keep the Baxter boiler fi-om choking up with salt it is
our habit to blow it out once in twidvi' hours. Before
blowing out the fires are hauled, and new ones built
wlien reipured. Boyd attem))ted to blow out witJKmt
ascertaining whether the out-board delivery pij)e was
clear or frozen. As a consequence, the pipe being frozen,
so nuu "i time was lost before the pump could be started
ay-iiin, that thirty inches water had accumulated for-

i I

THE IIETUIIN OF DAYLIGHT.

240

ill

This

o find
jirpen-
oyed,
y tlie
able
•ur in
Ut to
t it is
iJcfore
l)uilt

tllOl'.t

' Avas
•ozen,
ai'U'il
for-

w.ard of the water-tight bulkhead, anil then Nindeniann
heard a noise of water falling like an overflow, while
he was abaft the bulkhead. Upon examining, and lis-
tening attentively, it was located, as exactly as could
be under the circumstances, as coming from between
the planking and frames outside of the b iH-liead and
abaft of it. As a necessary sequence the water rose
rnuch higher in the fire-room bilge. As soon as the
IJaxter boiler could be got to work again the water
was speedily reduced to twenty-two inches, when the
overflow ceased, and onl}' the usual small amount, that
is, one half inch per hour of watei-, found its way aft
into the lire-room. The steam-cutter's boiler being in
readiness, steam was got on it to run the steam-cutter's
enu'ine in connection with the converted bilsce- >ump

O Oil

of the main engine. The combination worked well,
pumping out dry the engine-room bilge. It was found,
however, that the furnace of the cutter's boiler was
too small to keep up a continuous pumping, the steam
running down too low whenever the fire was cleaned
or the boiler was being : uniped and blown. As we
want to be sure that this little boder will do all that is
expected of it, and shall be in its most eflicient state,
ready to answer any sudden demand, MelvilK^ rroposes
to cut down its bridge wall, take out its nine-inch o-riitii
bar, and insert one sixteen inches long, thus increasing
its grate surface from 144 square inches to 2-3G scpiare
inches. This is immediately commenc<>d, and to-mor-
row I hope it will be done, and we shall be able to dis-
pense with the main boiler altogether.

A bear came neai- the ship at seven a. m.. but being
frightened by the dogs made his escape before any one
could ii'et a shot at him.

Fehnicri/ I'M/i, FrUhn/. — Completed the work of r.>

i • i i

f. •

I I

2-30

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNEITE.

inoviii<^ the bridge wall of steiim-cutter's furnace and
placing in the furnace sixteen-incli grate bars instead
of nine-inch ones. Got steam on the cutter boiler again,
and found upon lengthened trial that th; alteration be-
fore mentioned made it possible to work the rig con-
tinuously to maiu engine bilge-pump, and thus keep
the bilge nearly dry. Hauled the fires under the main
boiler, ran all the water from it, and drained out all
engine and boiler-pipes to jirevent their freezing, and
pumped the bilge dry with the steam-cutter's rig.

At last we have succeeded in reducing our fearful ex-
penditure of fuel to a reasonable amount ; 400 pounds
of coal a day will now run our two st"am-pinnps. niui
that is much moi'C comforting than burning 1,000 or
1.200 in the main boilei- furnaces. Enough water ac-
cumulates forward of the water-tight bulkhead to re-
quire the steady running of the Baxter rig, and enough
gets aft through "between frames" to occupy the
steam-cutter's rig continuously. The crew were kept
busy all dav in trimming down the coal in the after
bunkeij^ so as to get a plac*' ready for receiving souk
of our pi'ovisions. With the spar deck and deck-housc
all lumbered up, we sliould l»f in ,i fearful mess if the
ice were to heave us arouu'l. -iud I have concluded
to make u.i*e of «'m]^ty coal bunkers as provision rooms.
While water i>< coming into the ship forward we cannot
restow in the fore hold or Hour-room anything that
would be injured by dampness, even if prudenr'- <ii#l
not dictate keeping those places clear in the event of
any fresh mishap. Water continues to mount up be-
tween the frames and planking forward of our bulk-
head in the fore peak, and triekles out along the Ijertli
deck, keeping everything damp and nasty. Ninde-
mann and Sweetman keep at work trying to stoj) this
by putting in fresh fillings where old ones have sctth'Si.

THE llETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

251

Referring to my renuirks on December 14th, in rela-
tion to Weypreclit saying, '" Beginning at a certain
thickness the ice is ahnost tree i'roni salt," it may be
as well to state here the result of our examination of
the ice in which we are drifting. A piece of tloe ice,
formed from direct freezing, and three feet nine inches
thick, was selected for examination. The following are
Dr. Ambler's figures for the result of his test (Parke's
test). (See Appendix E.)

Nuni!H!i' of grains of salt per gallon of sea-
water equal 2045.

Number of grains of salt in cube cut from

upper five inches of our block .... 548.06

> nmber of grains of salt in cube, cut from

lower five incbes of our block .... 347.25

Number of grains of salt permissible in po-
table water 10.

From which it will be seen that the ■■• certain " fhickness
hns not been attainable bv us, for we cannot (ind a sin-
<_ ■ pit'ce of tloe from whicli we can get potable water,
and since it seems never to snow u]) here we have to
distill every droj. of water we drink. If, as Weypreclit
says, the salt is all crystallized out during the winter
and washed iAX during the summer, the upper layers
of old ice renuiining ought to be fresh ; but in our ex-
perience they were as salt in September last as the
new floes are salt now. We may be liaving phenom-
enal ice, but I hardly think so. If all, or nearly all,
the salt resulting from the freezing of sea-water comes
to the surface as efllorescence, ;nid is washed off into
the sea during the following summer; and if the ex-
posed upper ice then melts by the action of the suns
rays and is in its turn frozen in the fall, squeezing out
again a small residuum of salt, I can understand that

■

1 I

n
\

i ' )

252

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNE'ITE.

,li'.

i i

l! 'r

the refrozeii ice may be purer than tlie ice newly made.
But that it contains less than ten grains of salt to the
gallon 1 am not so ready to admit. In face of Wey-
precht's assertion, 1 do not intend to urge that he was
guided by taste rather than chemical test. 1 will simply
remark that we have iiot been able to find ice, old or
new, surface or subaqueous, that would be water proper
for men to use continually. Dr. Morse, of the Nares
Expedition, says, in his testimony before the Court of
ln([uiry, that he tested the water obtained from the
melting of ice on the top of a lloeberg and found it
piu'e. The inference is that he tested it analytically.
But I have had an idea for some time that the outbreak
of scurvy on board the English ships may have been
due to the continuous use of water which, though pure
enough to the taste, was unlit for consum[)tion. For
instance, I find that our washing water, which is ob-
tained by scraping such floes as have retained or ac-
cumulated a little snow, is not objectionable to the
taste, but yet it contains 28.03 grains of salt to the
gallon, and would be highly injurious if used steadily.
Since the occurrence of the leak, and the use of the
Baxter boiler to run a bilge-pump, our distilled Avater
has Ijcen made by the main boiler. As this was shallow
some salt was carried over from it to the distiller, and
the resulting water showed 13.41) grains of salt per gal-
lon. This, of course, was too much, but we have been
in an emergency where purer water was not possible.
Now that we have hauled the (ires under the main
boiler, the distilling has to be done by the steam-cut-
ter's boiler when it is not pumping the bilge out. As
this boiler is fed from the bilge, the drinking water is
made from the water leaking into the ship. Until we
began to drink it we were under the impression that it,

THE IJETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

253

allow

iUKl

hoou

;ible.

uiiiin

ii-ciit-

iVS

Itor IS

I'll we

at it,

the boiler feed, must ho pure salt water, for so iiuieh
water has flowed into the ship and been pumped out
that our bilges are as clean as a whistle. But upon
tasting and testing it we lind it has an unpleasant taste
and odor. With sea cocks frozen solid in their seats,
getting a supply from the sea was no ea ^y matter ; and
a thawed valve soon froze liard again with an outside
temperature of minus 35^ to minus 40°. However,
Melville managed to get a Kingston valve o[jen, so th.;t
we can feed our little boiler from jiure salt water and
not bilge water, and now I do not anticipate any diffi-
culty. One of my ideas that fresh water, that is, fresh
enough Avater, could always be ol)taine(l in the Arctic
regious, has been thoroughly exploded.

February i-ith, Satiirdai/. — The forward spar deck
bilge-pump is kept runuiug all day. The steam-cutter's
engine, runniug in connection with the main engine
bilge-pump, is used about one sixth of the time to pump
out the fire-room bilge, and the remainder ol" tlie time
it is used for distilling water for drinking and cooking
jjurposes.

Fihruary loth, Sunday. — x\lthough we have suc-
ceeded in getting our pumping so perfected that we can
hold the water in check without resorting to puuips
worked by the main boiler, our troul)les are not euded
yet. The water has succeeded in forcing its way up on
llw. berth deck on the port side, driviug through the
filling between the frauies. As a consequence, the
berth deck this morning was wet and sloppy, and un-
comfortable beyond expression. Sweetman indefatiga-
blv set to work asiuin to put in more (illiuu'. and at the
same time bui]vi a, little bulkhead under the berths to
keep the watiT from flowing out over everything, while
a hole boreit in tine d<H3k itself will let it otf into the

ift

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

' ',!

"l :l i

lore peak. This, ut all events, is what he is under-
taking' ; but if not immediately successful, I shall bore
through the ceilin*^ below and let the water come out
into the • fore peak directly. Men cannot keep their
health in the wet and damp now on our berth deck.
The drip from condensation is also very bad, the two
forward and two after berths requiring rubber blan-
kets suspended over them to save the bedding froui
getting wet. Verily, all oar troubles are coming upon
us at once.

Usual Sunday inspection at one, and divine service at
l.oO. The ice began to get uneasy, giving us several
severe shocks before miduight.

February IQfh, Monday. — Since getting the sea-wa-
ter tliroui>h the Kinti-ston to the steam-cutter's boiler,
instead of feeding it directly from the bilge, we have no
trouble about our distilled water. As the boiler has a
little steam-drum o)i top of it, no salt is carried over
from it to the coils, and we are now enjoying almost
chemicuHy pure water. We are not expending fuel
f(n' this purpose alone, however, because steam is nec-
essarily kept all the t .iie on this boiler to keep the lire-
room dry.

Between midnight and four v. M. we received several
si'vere shocks from ice pressure. When the walking
piuties went out at noon they discovered, about half a
mile to the northward of the ship, a long lane of water.
Sweetman was partially successfid in stojiping the weep-
iuii' of the water alony; the berth deck.

February i7th, 2\icsclay. — Our poor dogs sufler the
most in all this trouble in getting the pumps to work
with but a small consumption of fuel. While we had
steam on the main boiler, we were able to steam the
concentrated dog food received at St. Michael's, and

/ ■

L'veral
liking
lluilt: a
Ivater.
tsveep-

tr the

work

le bad

111 the

L and

V^^ . KnBiimt-ka. ^

SOME OF THE DOGS

ftom skflrhf)

by Mr. Nttiiiiimh.

1-' imT

,1 '■

!■

I i

rilK UKTUllX OF DAYLIGHT.

257

tliiis uiako it oatti])le. lint since the fires under tiie
main hoiler luive been discontinued the dogs have had a
hard time. T learned to-day that they were Ijcing fedi
on this concentrated food in its present frozen condition.
1 have been wondering for several days why the dogs
fawned so much upon tinybody who came on deck, and
why the rattle of an empty meat-can thrown over the
rail was a call to all the dogs to rush for the ship in a
body. Being up all night, and getting my rest in the
daytime, I lose track of some details by my not seeing
them, or Chipp forgetting to report them. As soon as
1 learned of the issue of frozen dog food, 1 innnediatelv
conferred with Melville about putting a pipe in the
Baxter boiler to carry steam into a barrelful of the
dog food to thaw it, and he connnenced to do so im-
mediately. ,

.Some of our dogs have poor teeth, and some seem to
be going it " on their gums." These, while trying to
get the frozen morsels down, are frequently rojjbed by
the more vigorous dogs who have good jaws, and who
can if necessary reduce an iron bar to proper size for
their stomachs. Being unable to get sleep this morn-
ing, after my all-night watch, I went out on the floe at
nine A. m., and was innnediately surrounded by all the
toothless dogs, who fawned upon me as if their instinct
had told them 1 was the commanding ollicer, and should
be appealed to to right them. I am in hopes now that
the evil is remedied, and that every dog will get his
food in such shape as will prove eatable.

Sounded at noon in thirty-one fathoms (muddy bot-
tom), a nortliwest drift being indicated by the lead line.
Ice formed seven inches in thickness over sounding
hole since yesterday. We have been favored with a
gale to-day with tremendously heavy squalls.
17

1*
I-

111

258

Tin-: vovAni-; ok the .ieannettk.

[if

J 11

'il,

r 1:5

'' ■

The vv.itor boin^ puinpLMl out of the ship of course
freozos at once, and in consequence the ice on tlic star-
board side reacluis above ber doubHnjif. This naturally
will hold the ship down, but we cannot help it. Work-
ing in this temperature is difficult for nion, but impos-
sible for tools. When the temjicrature becomes decent,
say at zero, 1 shall have a trench dug around her to re-
lieve this hold, but at present nothing can be done.
Finding that the deliverv of the hose was constantly
freezing, we allowed the surface ice to cover above the
scupper, and then dug a hole down underneath for the
water to How, raising the temperature of the delivery
to that of the surrounding ice.

Fi'hriiary ISfh, Wednexday. — A very stormy, disa-
greeable day, — one of the worst we have had. Tlie
day began with an E. N. E. wind, with a velocity of lif-
teen and one half miles an hour. This backed arid
moderated until it reached N. at six a. m. (velocity six
miles), the barometer then standing 28,59, — our low-
est on record. There itremamed until the wind backed
to N. W. at seven, when it conmienced to rise. Re-
membering that '■ the first rise after very low indicates
a stionger blow," 1 stood by for a breeze. It com-
menced to freshen innnediately ; at frequent intervals
we had very heavy squalls, probably from thirty to
forty miles velocity. Snow filled the air in falling, and
when drifted by the wind. The temperature fell rap-
idly to minus 34°, and with the fierce wind and driving
snow hiding everything at twenty yards, while sifting
thvough one's clothes, made up one of the most disa-
greeable days we have yet seen. Barometer reaches
29.11 by midnight.

Finding that staying up all night until 4.30 or 5.30,
and struggling to get enough sleep in the day (without

THE RETUKN OF DAYLKJIIT.

250

reference to the extreme irregularity ol' my eating),
was telling on me to a considerable extent, 1 arranged
the night woik in three watches, taking until midnight
myself, putting Mr. Dunbar on tor the midwatch, and
having Chipp look out alter lour a. m., nntil some
eu\ergency arises, or 1 find myself e(puil to another
spell.

Danenhower's sickness throws the work out greatly.
With our small nundjcr, one less affects us seriously.
His case is becoming more aggraVSiti'd instead of im-
proving. Despite all operations, it seems to be a fore-
gone conclusion that he will lose his left eye. His case
will not yield to treatment, but continues to work itself
along in thorough fashion in its own regular way.

Fehriuir>/ V,)t/i, Thursday. — Pump, pump, pump !
the saiue story day after day, and steadily our coal sup-
])ly diminishes. An average expenditure of five iiun-
dred poinuls per day, or perhaps five hundred and fifty
would be nearer tae mark, is required to keep us warm,
cook our food, and pump the ship out. A very sim|)le
calculation will determine how long we can go on at
that rate. All our hoped for explorations, and perhaps
discoveries this coming summer, seem slipping away
from ns, and we seem to have nothing ahead of us but
taking a leaking ship to the United States. At the best,
1 do not like to contemplate any further accident, al-
though in our position almost anything might befall us.
Writing down one's sensations here is of no use. They
will always be fresh enough to my mind without doubt,
and a record of them would be to no purpose. Put-
ting down things as they occur will be much the bet-
ter plan. A very stormy, disagreeable day.

Febriiari/ 2Uf/«, Friday. — We have been carefully
observing the working of both our pumps, and calculate

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

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12.0

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WIST MAIN STRUT

WEBSTIR.N.Y. 14SB0

(716) 873-4S03

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200

TI'E VOVACJE OF THE JEAXXKTTE.

I , I

,( '

the performance of each in order to jjfet as exact an iflea
as possible of the extent of the U'ak. We find the
anionnt of tlie leak may be assumed to be 10-47.7 gal-
lons ])er hour. Sounded at noon in thirty two fathoms,
muddy l)ottom with shells. A small clam was brought
u[) by the lead. A drift to N. was indicated by the line.
Five inches of ice formed over sounding hole since yes-
terday. Clear and pleasant weather, moderate west
winds. Temperature slowly falls from minus 45° to
minus 40°, but I am inclined to think it is colder than
is recorded. Our mercurial thermometers record be-
low minus 40^ (the freezing point of mercury being
minus oD). But how far such records are reliable is
n matter for scientific consideration. One of our mer-
ciuial thermometers records minus 50 , and our spirit
thermometers are generally from 3° to 4" higher
(warmer). Beyond minus 39° by mercurial thermom-
eters I consider our most carefid records as unreliable.

Although we have a clear day and a clear horizon,
no land is to be seen. We must therefore have drifted
away from our N. side of Wrangel Land. With the
high winds prevailing of late we have had no chance
of getting observations, and with the cold Aveather we
are having, one is sure of frozen lingers. In the ab-
sence of a place to erect our observatory, all our as-
tronomical observations have to be made with sextant
and artificial horizon. Care has to be taken to get the
sight quickly before the mercury freezes, and as the
fingers are like sticks, they do network tangent screws
readily. While working at these the horizon and index
glasses frost up, and then there is nothing to do but
come in and thaw out. Under ordinary circmnstances
our transit theodolite might be used. But apart from
the difficulty of working leveling screws in this tem-

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

261

peratiire, the theodolite would have to be brought
in-board to be read, and the transportation would per-
haps alter the readin<^. We get along fairly well, how-
ever, all things considered, Chipp lilling Danenhower's
place in taking sights.

Vapor arising from the ice to the S. W. during the
afternoon, indicating water hole.

Fchruarij 22(f, Stmday. — At eleven a. m. I inspected
the ship. The result was not encouraging, so far as the
future health and comfort of the men are concerned ;
everything in the deck-house and berth deck was either
very damp or dripping wet. The heat from the Bax-
ter boiler warms up the deck in its immediate vicinity
and thaws the ice, making wet and slop ; and the heat
ascending to the roof melts the frost on the beams,
causing them to drip steadily. Add these two things to
the unavoidable drip of leaking steam from cocks, etc.,
of the Baxter boiler, and we have a condition of wet
and damp that is disagreeable in the extreme. So much
for the port side. On the starboard side the pump
discharges through a canvas hose to a scupper hole, and
the leakage is considerable. The stove on the starboard
side keeps the frost overhead and on the side in a con-
stant state of drip without ever drying it. These two
things keep the starboard side of the deck as wet as
the ])ort side. To reach the berth deck everybody has
to pass through the deck-house on the po/t side, and as
a consequence wet and slop are carried below on every-
body's feet and into the berth deck. This begins the
trouble there. Then the steady flow of water into the
ship under the berth deck and aft to the pumps helps
to retain the dampness where deposited, and if any-
thing is needed to complete the discomfort the drip
from the beams comes in as a finish. The stove keeps

ifi*Mi*'j:^' ■L.sa^*^f*%' fA ■*.

r t«

;

262

THE VOYAOK OF THE JEANNETTE.

the midship berths dry and com for table, but the for-
ward and after berths require rubber bhmkets over
them to catch the moisture. Since the leak we have
not been able to air the bedding in the deck-house, be-
cause it would only absorb dampness ; and we have
to rest content with turning up all the mattresses in the
berths every morning, and letting the air already on
the berth deck circulate around them. Although the
Baxter boiler and stove keep the deck-house warm, six
of each could not keep it dry, and it is this continued
dampness that I fear will eventually tell on the men.
The worst of it is that we can hope for no improve-
ment until we get moderate weather. When that time
comes, I intend moving the Baxter engine rig to the
after bilge-pump, and letting all the water come aft
freely through the gates in the water-tight bulkhead.
But I cannot do this row because the after bilge-pump
stands out on the deck, with nothing more than the
tent-awning to shelter it, and would undoubtedly freeze
and choke up with ice while being worked.

Although the weather is terribly cold, ever/body is
encouraged to take exercise out on the ice. From
eleven to one every day the b^'rth deck is cleared and
aired, and the men of their own accord take at once to
the ice, tramping up and down near the ship, or wan-
dering off looking for open water and seals or bear
tracks. The officers are as ready to take a consti-
tutional walk as could be desired, the cabin being
thoroughly aired. We are as comfortable aft as we
could wish. The ward-room is and has been perfectly
dry, not a sign of drip or dampness being visible. As
there never is any fire there (except Saturday night to
heat water for bathing) the temperature ranges between
28° and 32°, and the officers below find that by no means

THE UETUKN OF DAYLIGHT.

283

uncomfortable for sleeping. The forward bulkhead of
Chipp's room and my room is constantly covered with
ice, which, when the rooms get warm, thaws and drips
on the deck, but as it is either wiped up or freezes again
we suffer no discomfort. Our beds, being in the after
part of the rooms and in-board, are perfectly dry. Such
moisture as condenses on the ceiling runs down tiio
curve of the turtle-back, lodges on the bulwark book-
shelf, and is occasionally chopped out with a hatchet.
But these are trifles, and 1 am as comfortable as possi-
ble. With good health, good appetite, and now euougji
sleep, I feel as if 1 could endure these small privations
for an indefinitely long period of time. But I am con-
siderably worried about the damp condition of the
men's quarters. I see no bad effect yet upon their
health, and as they are bright and cheerful, the dis-
comfort does not affect their spirits ; but I know the
conditions are unfavorable to proper health, and I am
anxious as to the result. We can hardly look for mild
weather until April, and that is five weeks off yet.

It is pleasant to record one favorable thing, and that
is, a reduction in the coal expenditure of fifty per cent.
as compared with last week. Our expenditure last week
was 1,02H pounds, and this week is {>G4'f. Atone v. m.
read divine service in the cabin.

February 23d, Monda//. — Washington's birthday
having fallen on Sunday this year, the celebration of it
was deferred until to-day. At sunrise we dressed ship
with American ensigns at the mast-heads and tlag-staff,
and the Union Jack forward. There is no fear of
contradiction when I say that this was the first time
Washington's birthday was celebrated in this part of
the world. Beyond flag-hoisting we made no pretense
of keeping holiday. There is so much absolutely neces-

'11

n—*

2G4

rilK VOYAfJK OF THE JEANXETTE.

sary work to be performed <liiily, now that we are leak-
ing;, that there can be hoHday for nobody.

Sounded at noon in thirty-tliree fathoms, mud and
i»:ruvel. Ice live inches thick formed over souncHnj;
hole since yestenhiy. Early dayligiit at 4.50 a. m. An
openini^ in the ice about one half mile to the .southward
of the siiip. Full moon occurs at noon on the 2-jth,
and we must stand by for a .scare I suppose.

A bear came near the ship at midnitrht. but the dog.s
made a rush for him and drove him off before anybody
could <^et a shot at him.

FebriKU'ii "lith, 2\iesday. — A slight shock from the
ice nt o.oO A. m. and a sound of ice in motion w-as heard

at the same time.
^c--y^ r-^ At four this after-

. -■ ^■■"^"^^-^ \^ noon we sighted

Herald Island from
aloft. This seemed
almost like meeting
an old friend. It
bore S., verifving
our sights for ])osi-
tion on the 21st.
Bright, pleasant
weather. So pow-
erful have the sun's rays become that 1 have ordered
the wearing of snow spectacles by everybody going
away fiom the ship. At one a. m. brilliant aurora.

At ten this morning there was a great going on witli
the ice. The usual grinding and screaming broke out
su<ldenly all around ns, but at some little distance, say
a quarter of ij mile. No ice could be seen moving, but
that there Avas motion somewhere was evident from
the vapor that rose from openings in the floes. A very

:(■"

THE RETURN OF DAYLKJIIT.

265

ith.

the
'iird

wit 11
out
say
r, but
from
very

curious phoiionionon in connection Avith this was that
pull's of vapor wouhl shoot up hko sniol\e from an cx-
plosi(m, too <1istant to be hoard, antl foUow along in a
line of possibk^ fracture. As soon as the puff had dis-
appeared a rejjjular haze would rise as if from open
water. The commotion wei>t on until eleven A. m.,
\hen it ceased as suddenly as it be<i;an. We did not
experience any shock or jar, and as our period of sus-
pense antl standing by was a short one, we were not in-
clined to regard the movement as any "great shakes."
I had been looking forward to this time, the time of
full moon, as a period of imcertainty, but, as often
happens, the anticipation Avas worse than the reality.
We have ceased to tremble at these semi-monthly visi-
tations. We can see now, and that is more than half
a victory. Eight hours' sunlight gives us a confidence
we did not feel in Novend)er, Decendjer, and Janu-
ary ; and as we know we are daily lengthening our
sunlight, and that each dav is a dav nearer mikl and
pleasant weather, we are as bold as lions. It seems
difficult at times to anticipate any mild weather with
the thermometer going on serenely day after day l)e-
low minus 40"^. This month has been a screamer for
cold.

When the ice excitement subsided this morning I
went out to look for results, and 1 found that, although
generally the floes had come together again, leaving
only cracks to show where they had broken, there were
a few openings six inches wide over which the ice had
formed in an hour one half inch in thickness. Nobody
seems to mind the cold much, we are all out every day
for an hour or two at a time, and beyond a cold nose
(and if it is windy, occasionally a slightly nipped one)
we seem none the worse for it. Our chief trouble is

'V,

[I!

20G

TIIK VOYA(.E OF THE .lEANNKTTK.

Avith our sno\v-<;()<r<rlos, for thoy quickly frost up, and
wo camiot see tlnoiijih them. If we <;o without them
we run the risk of snow-bUmhiess, for the j;lare is ter-
rific.

The refraction is something wonderful. The shapes
of distant pieces of ice change very often apparently,
and small hnnps look i'ordinately larjre. Occasionally
Ave si<fht some enormous blocks which have been broken
off and up-ended in the ice pressures. To survey these
massive pieces more satisfactorily we plod throujrh the
broken hummocks toward them only to find upon ar-
rival that a very insi<i:nificant block has been mairnified
by refraction. A piece seemingly forty feet in height
becomes in reality about ten feet.

Our auroral displays are falling off in number and
brilliancy. There is but one to record in these twenty-
four hours. Lunar halos and circles are quite com-
mon, the mist which hangs over these openings in the
ice during the day seeming to be drawn to the moon
regularly and resolving itself into a halo or circle. Of
lute days the moon has had a " burr " around it in ris-
ing, as if she had been dipped in adhesive vapor before
showing above the horizon.

Fehniary 2Q(h, Tfmrsdai/. — At ten p. m. the Baxter
boiler and engine commenced working the forward
spar declv bilge-pump again. This made a pleasant re-
lief for the men, who found the pumping by 1; aid no
sinecure. It Avould be an unpleasant featm-e of our
cruise were the pumping done by hand, for doubtless it
would soon break our men down. Valuable as our coal
is, the expenditure of two hundred and fifty pounds
per diem for pumping is a wise measure, and not to be
considered in comparison with the continued pumpin^ij
by hand and wearing out of men's health.

THE 1MCTU15N OF DAYLKWIT.

2(57

:ter
'urd
re-
no

lour
^s it
;oiil
Inds

Ki\?

This unhrokon monotony of life, with the ster.dv
strain on the mind of perpetuiilly standing? by for a
mishap, is very wearing"', and calls for all of one's nerve
to keep cheerful one's self and maintain cheerfulness
anion*/; one's associates. I hoped that by this time we
mi<iht begin to look for ice openings, and seals and
walruses, but we are having such very cold weather that
everything is shut up tight. 1 even hoped that we
might begin to see a glimpse of an occasional feather,
but no bird with a well-regulated mind would trust
himself in this temperature. We cannot yet feel the
want of fresh food, for our stock of. seals laid in in the
fall has enabled us to have roast seal every Sunday for
dinner, and we have one left now for our coming Sun-
day's repast. We have also roast bear one day in the
week, and that is a treat. Oiu' dogs are hardly as well
off as ourselves ; they are now feeding on the coui-
pressed food, Avhicli is steamed uutil it makes a kind of
soup hash, Tiiis is not as nutritious as fish for them,
and does not satisfy their appetites. They are perpet-
ually rummaging around among the empty meat-cans,
and picking up what few, very few scraps are thrown
over the side. We need a spell of open water and a
chance to get some seals, or a walrus, to give them
good food and plenty of it.

Fehrwirji 27th, Fr'idai/. — The pumping goes on with
its accustomed regularity, the steady thump, tluunp,
of the deck-pump being relieved occasionally by the
whirr, whirr of the steam-cutter's engine working the
main engine bilge-pump. So far as lunnan ingenuity
can be of avail, Ave have reduced the greatest amount
of work to the least expenditure of fuel, and we can
do nothing more than wait for the mild weather which
will surely come by and by, and when we are atioat

P'f

( .»

I li.t

• 'i.

2(;8

TIIK V()YA(;i: OF THE JKANNKTTE.

ii*iiiin look jiioiind lis and see what, can be done. To
make co)ijeotui'es, or lay plans at this early date, would
))e idle. Everythin<!: will depentl on the extent of the
leak when the ship becomes entirely Avater borne, our
al)ility to keep her free, and the amount of fuel remain-

Walching for Seals.

in<r on hand. We have all the resolntion to push on
to the highest latitude that we hud upon leaving home,
and we can do nothing but wait for time to show
whether our ability can be made to keep pace with our
desire.

Beautifully pleasant weather. Were it not for the
intense cold we should be having weather remarkably
enjoyable ; skies almost entirely free from clouds, a few

THE UETUIJX OF DAYLKiHT.

209

"or the

irkably

a few

stratus at sunrise and sunset beinj^ the only ones ; very
hjilit variiible airs and cahns, brilliant sunlij^ht, and
miles of ice. So brilliant is the <;lare of tlie sun that
it is imprudent to ^^o outside of the ship even, without
snow-spectacles ; for if the eyes do not become piiinl'ul
while on the ice they are almost sure to become so
sliortly after coininjjf in-board. We have had so nuich
annoyance from the <rlasses IVostinjjf up and tlius be-
comiuf^ useless for seeing ])urp()scs, that some of us
to-day tried wearin«>" horse hair eye ^"uards. These we
found to be excellent beyond comparison. They did
not frost up at all, were more pleasant next the skin
than <«;lass gogi^les, althou<;h the rims of these latter
are covered with velvet, and, curious to relate, I found
that my near-si<^htedness was considerably overcome
by them, enabling me to see at greater distances and
Avith more clearness and distinctness than with the
naked eye. This is a fact worthy of investigation by
an oculist at some future time.

The bright sunlight out-board also reaches us in-
board, and with bright and cheering elfect. The air
ports and deck lights in the ca])in being cleaned of
their accumulation of ice allow the sunlight to stream
in, and cheer and brighten us while the excessive cold
keeps us shut up. The cabin has a very dingy look.
The smoke of a whole Avinter from stoves and pipes
lias colored the white paint work to a decided black,
and we are almost tempted to commence scrubbing it
before mild weather comes. But as it will turn our
dry and comfortable quarters into wet and damp ones
for several days, we refrain. Now that daylight makes
things visible which lamplight hid, I am finding in my
room on the forward and out-board sidt's accumulations
of ice and frost, Avhich the steward breaks up with an

ifii

270

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Jf t

iff

' :,

nxo and removes with a shovel. It seems odd for a
man to dij; his room out at the end of winter, and such
a fact mi<;ht lead one to suppose that 1 had had much
discomfort. On the contrary, 1 iiave heen comfortable
to a <froater de<i"ree than 1 had any reason to expect
under the circumstances.

As oui days len<j;then the auroral displays l)e(H)me
less frequent and less brilliant. It is impossible to as-
sijrn any particular cause for their appearance, or dis-
cover any particular eflect foUowinj^ them. They have
been brilliant in intensely cold weather, and also in
mild weather, and ajrain they have been faint under
similar emperature ; they have existed in all winds
and in calms, at full and chanjie of the iJKxm, when the
ice has been breaking? up and when it has been motion-
less ; in fine, under all sorts and conditions of circum-
stances. The only prerequisite is a dry atmosphere.
It has been said that these auroras are not seen over
the ice. AH that I can say about that is, that fre-
quently we could see nothinj^ but ice dnrin<if displays,
altliou<rli there may have been water somewhere.

Fcbntari/ 2Hth, Snlurihiji. — Pumpinjr as usuid, and
\xm\^ the steam-cutter's boiler lor distillinj^ when not
makinir steam to run the main engine bilge-pump.

Beautifully clear and pleasant weather. Our dogs
lie antl bask in the sun's rays, and seem to enjoy it,
altliough their wool is still' with frost. Their hardi-
hood is innuense. Lying right out on the tloe night
aiter night, they seem to keep warm enough, and at the
■ime time throw out sufficient heat to thaw a hole un-
der and around them an inch or more in depth. Ash
lieaj)s and dirt heaps seem to be especially sought for.
Alliances are formed for their enjoyment, and the ap-
proach of an outside dog is the signal to clear for action.

THK UKTURN OF DAYLIGHT.

271

A few of the strongest dogs take post on hoard at the
door of the oook-hoiisi' to intoiTopt any supphes, and he
nearest the place of deposit if they are thrown over
the rail, and a hungry or inquisitive hrother is at once
driven away hy them.

Fehruarij 2\)fh, Sunihuj. — At eleven A v.. I inspected
the iA\\\). Although the herth deck aid d<' K-!;niise were
damp, they were at all events clean, f he deck-house,
having heen relieved of some of the boxes of provisions
by stowing them in the coal bunkers, presented more
room for free circulation ; and although the deck was
damp, ])articularly in the wake of the Baxter boiler on
the port side and the stove on the starboard side, the
temperature being kept at quite a comfortable point
rendered it considerable of a s!i_dter in this inclement
weather. In all the drip and dampness on the berth
deck we have been a' Ic to keep the bedding dry, and
there has been no instance of bed clothing freezing to
the side as 1 have read of in some other expeditions.
The men are bright and cheerful, surveying with much
complacency and evident gratification the pumping of
the ship by steam instead of hand power. Our Chinese
cook and steward are as impassible and impenetrable in
this cold weather as if we were enjoying a tropical
.spring. Seemingly emotionless, all weathers, all cir-
cumstances, are alike to them. Living by themselves
in the cook-house, they hold no communion with their
fellow-men, but are nevertheless cheerful and contented
with each other's society, singing songs or pUiying cards
in the evening, day after day, with no concern for the
future and no care for the past. Our two natives,
Alexey and Aneguin, thrive wonderfully well. ' Occa-
sionally they " think plenty " about St. Michael's, being
a little homesick, but generally they are bright and

272

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEA^INETTE.

\ 1

I i"}

' •<

1 ■:

happy. They have learned considerable English (and
always manage very cleverly to express their mean-
ings), play bean poker, are as fat as partridges, and are
longing for the breaking up of the ice and a chance
at the walrus and seal.

They are naturally and intuitively the most polite
men I have met outside of cultivated society, and would
even compare favorably with some of the choicest within
it in that respect. Upon meeting an officer first in the
morning, a touch of the cap and a good-morning are
immediately tendered. If you do or say anything for
them that they see or hear, " Tliank you " is immedi-
ately your reply. If you thank them, " You are wel-
come " is ready. And all this in a manly, straightfor-
ward way, without any cringing or eye serving. A
quiet dignity pervades everything in their intercourse
with their shipmates.

March \st, Monday. — The pumping proceeded as
usual until 10.30 p. m., when Melville came to me and
reported that the Baxter boiler had broken down, the
crown sheet having come down by heat and pressure.
This of course necessitated the renewal of hand pump-
ing while repairs were being made. I was surprised to
find how easily the bilge-pump got the water down and
kept it down by pumping by hand ten minutes and
resting five minutes. I am of the opinion that so much
ice has got under the ship by direct freezing, and the
shoving under of floes, as to prevent the entrance of a
very large amount of water by lowering the water head.
Of course, when we are water borne again this will be
proven or disproven, but it can hardly be supposed that
the leak has diminished by the closing up of any wound.
We might dispense altogether with steam pumping, so
far as our ability to keep the ship free is concerned ;

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGFIT.

273

ish (and
r mean-
, and are
a chance

>st polite
nd would
;st within
rst in the
rnini; are
rthing for
i immedi-
i are wel-
niightfor-
iving. A
atercourse

iceeded as
o me and
down, the

pressure,
lid purnp-

rprised to

down and
Inutes and

,t so much
, and the

Irance of a

later head.

[lis will be
)Osed that

iiy wound.

imping, SO

loncerned ;

but though this might be practicable for a week or two,
it cannot be entertained where months have to be taken
into consideration.

Our mercurial thermometer is graduated to minus
49" ; but as mercury freezes, or is said to freeze, at
minus 39°, it is questionable whether its readings below
minus 39° are reliable. At all events, as its reading,
hour for hour, is lower than a spirit thermometer placed
alongside it, its reading is logged as a nearer approach
to the correct temperature so long as it is Jit or above
minus 49°. Below this point it suddenly contracts and
falls into the bulb, and there I presume freezes solid.
After that moment the spirit thermometers are perforce
read and logged. To-day, at the beginning, when the
mercury read minus 49°, the spirit thermometer read
minus 47°. At one a. m. the spirit thermometer read mi-
nus 48.6°, and soon after falling to minus 50° it finally
reached minus 53.5°. Before leaving New York, at
Collins' request, I directed Green to make thermome-
ters with bulbs of the prismatic colors, but, unfortu-
nately, in transportation to San Francisco, four of the
seven were broken, leaving us only red, violet, and
black. The object of these thermometers (filled with
uncolored spirit) was to determine the effect of the
sun's rays acting through prismatic colored bulbs, and
so obtain a scale of absorption. One of these (the vio-
let) was exposed to the air to-day. and when our ordi-
nary spirit thermometer read at midnight minus 53^,
this violet bulb read minus 47.5°. As this one has
agreed very well with our standard mercurial at read-
ings above minus 49°, it is possible that its present
reading is nearer the correct temperature than that
of the ordinary spirit.

During the last few days I observed that on the port
18

}

iSN

\\i.

274

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

quarter the snow had melted on the side, and that at
noon the frost in the seams was oozing out and trick-
ling down. In order to determine how much of this
was due to radiating heat from vne ship (the cabin stove
being abreast of the quarter), and how much to the ac-
tion of the sun's rays on the black side, I caused Mr.
Collins to blacken the bulb of a spirit thermometer, and
this evening it was attached to the ship's side. By ex-
periments made at noon and midnight, I may be al)le
to determine how much heat there is received from the
sun's rays.

Danenhower had the sixth operation on his eye to-
day that it has been necessary to perform. The knife
and proVje are regular things in his case now, and
come at regularly shortening intervals. There is no
sign of improvement. Day after day it is the same old
story. He boars his confinement and the pain of the
operations heroically, and his general health and spirits
keep up well. But he will never be of any use to the
expedition, and I seriously fear can never be of very
much use to himself. If he does not speedily reach a
place where his surroundings will be more advantageous
to his general condition he may have trouble with his
right eye.

Marvh 2d, Tuesday. — The usual monthly examina-
tion of the officers and men by the surgeon was contin-
ued and completed, and his report handed in. Our
condition, upon the whole, is satisfactory. The surgeon
says, '' 1 consider that the crew have stood the hard-
ships incident to a winter in these latitudes very well ;
there has been no case of serious disease among us up
to this time that could be referred for its origin to our
sojourn in the Arctic regions." Of the eight officers,
the condition of one is excellent, of six good, and of one

tup: uetuhn of daylight.

275

fair. Of the twenty-three men and two natives, the
condition of twenty in excellent, and of the remaining
five good. The only serious case is that of Mr. Danen-
hower, which drags along from day to day. Another
operation was performed on his eye to-day, and no
doubt others will be necessary at short intervals.

n'vJ March 'M, Wedntsday. — At the sug-

y-A gestion of Mr. Newcomb I gave an or-

[(ij^ der the other day, that whenever the

l\ft;\ men went away from the ship on their

walks they should keep a lookout for

shells or other things on the ice, and

bring such articles to the ship. To-day

one of the men brought in some shells,

and a piece of drift-wood resembling

birch, which he had found. It seems he

.^-^ , saw this piece of

^^^dr^^ ><■ ^^^^ "^ Uecem-
-^^^ ber, but attaching
no importance to
HM it, did not remove it. At tliat time he
\l\\ says he saw the print of two mocca-
sins (and only one print) on the snow
covering the tloe. As it, is not possible
that these prints were made by any of
the ship's company, it would seem prob-
able that this piece of ice came from
near some inhabited land ; and as the
drift-wood is no doubt from Siberia, it
may be that this piece of ice came from
f I i "^ some Siberian river. As in the month
" '^ of December we were drifting around

Sketch by«Engineer Melville, showing the manner in which the ceiling was crushed by the
■train brought on the thwart-ship thrust during ice pressures. The fibre was broken and
crushed to a depth of three-quarters of an inch on each side. Water line at A

-- ^ 1J

276

THE VOYAGE OF TFIE JEANNETTE.

in the neighborhood of 72° 30', that Hoe, with its wood
and foot-prints, must have come a long distance.

Murth itli, lliursday. — Being able to begin to see
the condition of things in the coal bunkers, Melville
made an unpleasant discovery to-day which he reported
to me. I immediately repaired to the port coal
bunker, and there, to my unpleasant surprise, saw that
the heavy six inch Oregon pine strengthening planks
were crushed in the wake of the heavy thwart-ship
thrust beam to the depth of half an inch, while the
metal bolts forward and abaft of this beam were here
and there three eighths of an inch from the planks. In
some one of our heavy nips this heavy transverse beam
has been literally driven into the side. As in this part
of the ship there were new frames and new planking,
as well as the extra interior strengthening and the out-
side doubling, she was as strong as wood and metal could
make her. Had I any doubt of it before I should be
■convinced of it now, that nouhing of wood and metal
could be constructed to withstand the tremendous pres-
sure caused by moving ice-floes. What the condition
of our starboard side may be I do not know, for it can-
not be seen by reason of intervening coal. It would
be idle to hazard a guess as to what this will cause when
the ship is again water borne, so we can only wait and
see. Clear and pleasant weather.

March Qth, Saturday. — Pumps going as usual. The
water seems to be coming into the ship at about the
same rate, no change apparently having taken place for
some time in the condition of the ice under the ship.
Looked at on the starboard side the ship seems to be
completely iced up, or in ; her rail and the surface of
the ice being on the same level. This is caused by
her heel of 3° to starboard, and the fact that we have

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

277

been for a long time manufacturing ice. At the be-
ginning of the leak the water was pumped out directly
upon the lloe, where it of course almost immediately
froze. As the ice rose in consequence it soon reached
our scupper, and that commenced to freeze up also.
Then Chipp set to work and had a hole dug out under
the scupper through to the water, and by covering over
this hole witli boards and snow, secured an outlet for
the water from the ship, which was protected from
freezing. Since this time we have had no trouble.
Should we have a commotion in the ice there is every
chance of the ice making a sweep of our deck athwart-
ships, but we have to run that risk. No tools coidd
stand the racket in this temperature, and we must wait
for an increase of temperature to enable us to carry
out the plan of digging the ship out by cutting a trench
four feet in width all around her. Ship's position de-
termined by Chipp's observations to-day to be in lati-
tude 72° 12' N., and longitude 175° 30' W., showing a
drift of twelve miles due W. since last observations,
one week ago.

March 7th, Sunday. — At eleven the Articles of War
were read, and the crew mustered, after which I read
divine service in the cabin. Cloudy and dull weather.
We have had such a continuance of bright, clear, and
almost cloudless weather that we resent a change. We
are also having a moderate gale, anothe" novelty, and
are so spoiled in con ^ ence as to be somewhat dis-
gpsted. The temperature, however, increases from
minus 33° to minus 22° by noon, and falls only to minus
28° at midnight. S. E. winds have always raised our
temperature. The ice has opened in consequence, for
much vapor was observed to arise from it to-day.

March 9th, Tuesday, - - Taking advantage of the

M,iJ!

: t

iii

' !! t

278

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

iJli'i

rising temperature we set to work and dug a trench
four feet in width all along the port side, until we un-
covered the top of the doubling. This was a heavy
labor, bringing in picks, axes, and shovels ; but it re-
lieved us of the clingintjr and holdinu; down ettect of
this amount of ice whenever the ship should struggle
to rise and free herself. When we coumience on the
starboard side, however, it will be a heavier job, for the
ship's rail is almost Hush with the ice on that side.
Should we retain our present position a month longer,
"we can fill, or nearly fill, this trench with ashes, and
perhaps thaw a small basin or dock in which we can
float some time before the surrounding ice breaks up
and liberates us. The digging to-day brought up a rare
stock of empty cans, which, slowly accumulating since
November 28tli, had as slowly been covered over by
dirt, ashes, and frozen slops. Openings occurred in the
ice during the afternoon about a mile to the E. and S.
E. of the ship, from which large clouds of vapor arose.
The time of new moon being at hand, I stood by for a
possible emergency, but beyond a slight shock at mid-
night nothing occurred. The hunters report having
seen seals in the ice openings, but brought none back as
the result. A skeleton of a baby seal (picked by foxes
no doubt) was found and brought to the ship.

A very curious cirro-cumulus cloud, in shape re-
sembling a cornucopia, arose in the S. W. this afternoon,
and slowly mounted toward the zenith. It so much re-
sembled a cloud I once saw in the River Plate, imme-
diately preceding a heavy pampero, that I somewhat
anticipated a heavy blow in this case, but nothing oc-
curred. As an experiment, I had, some time since, a
quantity of salt beef hung up in the rigging, .and
another quantity packed in snow in a barrel. After

lAUl

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

279

M i

several weeks' exposure we tried each kind, and were
inclined to favor the snow-cured as being the more
freshened by the operation.

March H)th, Wednendftt/. — A long lead of open
water is seen about one and a half miles to southward,
running in a curve from E. to S, W. Vapor rises from
tliis opening during the afternoon until live o'clock,
when ice having formed over it, the escape of the heat
from the water is prevented and the vapor ceases. As
long as daylight lasted the place of the opening lay
like a black band stretched out on the white surface
of the ice-field. By to-morrow, no doubt, the salt will
have become squeezed to the surface, covering it en-
tirely, and making its appearance more like that of the
surrounding floe.

Beginning with the first flush of dawn at three A. m.,
and ending WMth the disappearance of twilight at nine
r. M., our days are beginning to be very long. At six
A. M. the anemometer can be read without artificial
light. Whenever at night there is no aurora, we can
see a faint gleam of light on the northern horizon at
midnight, and thus trace the entire circuit of the sun.

The crew were engaged to-day in digging the trench
along the starboard side of the ship. This was a much
harder job than digging on the port side, because, on
account of the heel of the ship to starboard, a greater
depth had to be reached to get to the doubling. .The
deeper tbe digging the harder seemed the ice, and,
finally, it was so hard and so closely knit together as
to resemble flint. The freezing has been so uniform as
to leave no pores or interstices, and pick-axes have
nothing like the expected effect. Six hours' steaily dig-
ging and shoveling gave about the distance from the
quarter to the mainmast. Another day will be re-

280

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

quired to finish the starboard trench, and then we can
dig out the stem and finally the bow. The ice has
regularly taken the exact shape of the ship, and so
closely has it adhered to her that in nianv places the
fibre of the elm doubling is imprinted on the surround-

mg mass.

The hunters were out again visiting the water lane,
and Alexey succeeded in killing a seal and bringing it
to the ship. This adds to our larder, for as Ave have had
seal every Sunday for dinner all winter, we had brought
down our stock to one half of one seal. These seals,
and the almost weekly ration of bear meat, have given
us a certain amount of fresh provisions regularly, and
have gone far towards keeping us in good health.

March Wth, Thursday. — The open water reported
yesterday remained closed over until this afternoon,
when it reopened. Nindemann reports having seen a
walrus with a young one on the ice. He says the
young one was fourteen dr.y.^ v>M. A bear-track was
also seen on the trail of the walking parties of yester-
day. Ice openings from S. S. E. and S. W. two miles
distant from the ship, and much vapor rising therefrom.
The temperature began at minus 27°, and fell to minus
33.5^ by seven A. m., and then gradually rose to minus
21° by six r. m. The next hour caused a sudden jump
of 6°, and the next of 4i°, the temperature at eight p. j[.
being minus 10.5° for the first time since January 12th.
At midnight it had only fallen to minus 14°. The air
seemed deliciously mild at this temperature ; after our
experience of minus forties and minus fifties so lately,
we are not prepared for such a pleasant treat as the
present. An immediate consequence has been a thaw-
ing of the ice on the bulkhead of my room, and no
doubt a continuance of mild weather will occasion a
general thaw within the ship.

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

281

the

March \2th, Friday. — "Pump, pump, pump with
care," etc. The weather to-day is overcast, cloudy, and
{gloomy. Accustomed as we are to bright, pleasant days,
the occasional advent of a cloudy one makes us feel the
difference keenly. But we have had to-day such a
novel experience of mild weather that we have fairly
reveled in it. The day began with a temperature of
minus 14°, and by noon had risen to minus 1° ; and al-
though it got down to minus 7" by nine p. m., it rose
again to minus 4° by midnight. Heavy clothing seemed
a burden, and fires almost absurd. Had the sun been
out it would have made the day perfect. Our men dig-
ging under the stern worked barehanded and in their
shirt sleeves. I kept my air-port open all day and part
of the evening, and in fact made a regular " spring
opening " of it. The travelers coming back to-day re-
port having seen a track resembling a wolf's, and they
bring in a piece of snow-covered ice, bearing the im-
pression. It is pronounced by our experts a track of
a veritable wolf. About three miles to the southward
Alexey says he came across a bit of open water so wide
that he could not see to the other side of it.

March 13^/i, Saturday. — Pumping and distilling as
usual, and I suppose such will be the daily record in
my journal until the pennant comes down and the ship
is placed out of connnission. Sounded at noon in thirty-
one .and a half fathoms, a S. W. drift indicated by the
lead line. Ice formed over sounding hole only two
inches since yesterday. This is the best evidence we
have had of the effect of the present mild temperature.
The weather to-day is rather gloomy again. The sky
is overcast, and very fine and light snow falls until
seven p. m. It can hardly be called a snow fall, for
nothing comes of it. So light is it that as fast as it

282

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTK.

■>.(■,

falls it is absorbed by the mixture of salt and ice that
rest on the surface of the floe, and is lost to us, that
is, we cannot hope lor any of it to melt and use for
drinkin<r water, to let up on our distillinj^. The hi<fh
temperature, minus 1° mitil noon, and even as hi<^h ns
0.3'^ at two V. M., and the falling snov^ make the lloe ice
quite soft and soggy, and leave us with damp feet after
our hour's walking. This softness is only superficial,
however, for our men digging away under the stern
find the ice of the hardness ol" flint. I never dreamed
that ice could freeze so hard. But it is proof enough
to see pick-axes wielded by strong men breaking off
small pieces the size of one's hand, instead of good
sizetl lumps. The mass of ice seems absolutely without
pores (though, of course, since the atoms of salt caught
up in it cannot be destroyed or eliminated, they must
be held in minute cells), and clings to the ship's shape
as if it formed a part of her. Except by the pick-axe
chipping off and gouging and scoring the wood, the ice
cannot be removed next to the ship's skin. So nuich
of the stern post as has been uncovered seems to be
all right, and we can but hope that we will find it all
right in the future.

The temperature having risen sufficiently to keep
our liquid compass unfrozen, the azimuth is taken out
to-day, and the ship's head is found to be south 39°
W. (magnetic). Chipp also determines our position by
meridian altitude of the sun and a time sight of the
moon to be lat. 72° 31' N., and long. 177° 58' W., al-
most exactly our position on December 2d, supposing
our chronometers have not altered their errors and
rates. The drift since the 6tli inst., our preceding ob-
servation, is thirty-three miles N., 55° W., and as that
is a larger amount than we have had in a long time, I

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

283

will hero record the attending circunistances of the past
week's weather, etc., for future con.sideration of its ef-
fect on the drift : —

Diitf.

Souiidiiitjs.

Drift.

.Vmipuiit.

Wintl
nt tiiiif.

Velocity.

M.iri'li 7, Sunday.

;n fiithoiiis.

Moderate.

S. E.

.March H, .Mimdiiv.

HI fathoms.

Moderate.

March It, Tuesday.

;U fatliDins.

Culm.

March lo, Wcdncsdav.

;t()i fathoms.

Marcdi 11. Thursday.

.■)() fathoms.

Manli 12, Friday.

;i.'i fathoms.

Rapid.

s. i:.

March 13, Saturday.

aij fathoms.

8. VV.

Moderate.

N. E.

March 14//<, Sioidni/. — At eleven a. m. in.spected
the ship. The berth deck was in a fair condition with
res[)eet to drip, the rubber blankets being a necessity,
of course, over the forward and after berths. Consider-
ing, however, all our surroundings, and the unavoid-
able dampness arising from the steady flowing of water
into the fore peak, I must be satisfied. The duck-house,
however, was wringing Avet. The higl- temperature of
the past few days and the heat arising from the Baxter
boiler and stove have caused the accumulation of frost
on the sides and roof to melt and run down in streams.
The deck was one large slop. So much provisions, etc.,
are stowed in the house that squilgeeing the deck dry
is impossible. Little rivers and rivulets stream out
under boxes and barrels. Not having been able to ><;et
a winter harbor and get superHiious articles on shore, 1
have not been able to put this deck-house to its proi)er
and intended use : a living place for the men. On the
contrary, it has been nothing but a store-house and
workshop.

The ward-room remains dry and comfortable. The
cabin has responded to the rise in temperature by
thawing the accumulations of ice back of the lockers,

284

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

I. '

and pouring littlo streams across tlie deck. As the
ship heels 3° to starboard, these little streams run down
hill and collect in little puddles on the starboard side,
where they are dried up. The ice and frost back of
my desk and book-shelves thaw and run down the
ciu'vod poop to the bulwark, and thence to the deck,
where the steward wi[)es them up as li(juid when he
can, or breaks them up with an axe and removes them
with a shovel otherwise. And yet the ship's company,
as a whole, are healthy, happy, and contented. The
individual exceptions are Daneidiower and Dunbar.
Danenliower's case drags its weary length along, some
days better some days worse, although the operations
on his eye have mA been necessary of late. Dunbar is
yet weak and feeble, and seems like an old man.

At one p. M. read divine .service in the cabin.

It is, perhaps, worthy of record here that since Octo-
l)er 1st we have used but eighteen tons of coal for
heating the entire ship and for cooking, and, also, some-
times distilling, and that since January 19th it has re-
quired eighteen tons to pump the water out of the
ship. The comfort of this latter part is, that whereas
we used 11,000 pounds, nearly five tons, to do oui"
pumjiing the first week of the leak, we are doing the
work with 1,845 pounds now, thanks to Melville's skill
and devotion to duty.

We have been able to enjoy a rare treat within the
last few days. By some miscalculation, 1 bought so
many potatoes the day we left San Franci o that we
were unable to eat them all up to the time hey froze
solid. As cold weather approached, last fall, re stowed
them in a coal bunker, and ate them until, b reason of
frost, they became insipid and tasteless. In clearing up
the other day, we came across a bag which had by

THK HETUKN OF DAYLKHIT.

285

chance reinuincd on dock all winter exposed, save for
till' protection of the tent iiwning, to all the rigor of
this climate. As an experitnent, one or two were
placed in boiling water and thus thawed and cooked.
To our surprise they tasted like almost fresh ])otatoes.
The heart was black and bad, but enough of the otiter
body remained to be of use. By thawing a few at a
time we were able to get a couple of potatoes apiece at
two meals this past week. The dilHculty about ha\ *ug
them regularly and in (piantities is that they turn the
hot water so (piickly into cold water or ice in drawing
the frost, that the proper quantity would defeat the ob-
ject altogether.

The pumping goes on with its accustomed regularity.
Two of our men away on the ice to-day report having
fired at a bear and hit him, but he managed to escape.
There were brought in to-day from the ice at some dis-
tance three species bivalves, one univalve, two pieces
drift-wood, some stones, and some sponges. The shells
can be accounted for, perhaps, by the habit of walruses
in digging them up with their :usks and bringing them
to the surface,

March loth, Monday. — The crew were engaged
again to-day in digging away the ice under the stern.
Having reached a depth of four feet, water commenced
to flow up and freeze at the surface. As much of the
stern-post as can be seen is in good condition, and no
injury can be discovered around the stern and quar-
ters. Sounds of ice in motion to S. E. and E. at four a. m.
Bright, clear, and pleasant weather. The temperature
begins at minus 16°, and falls to minus 27.5°.

3larch IGth, Tuesday. — Sounded at noon in thirty
fathoms (muddy bottom). Ice formed five inches in
thickness over sounding hole since yesterday. Temper-

' I

I Si

•I i

'•i;

' '-4 •.

?;•!*

L^y^^r f

286

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ature rises from minus 28° to minus 25'' at one p. m.,
and falls to minus 3G° by midnight.

Land was sighted this afternoon bearing S. S. W.
(true). It was in the shape of two high mountains, or
peaks, with a saddle between them. Supposing the
positions in each case to be accurate, the land is the
volcano marked by Captain Long as being on Wrangel
Land, and distant from us one hundred and ten miles.

The crew were engaged in digging away the ice un-
der the bows, in order to enable us to get at the stem,
and perhaps in time at the fore foot, when we can ascer-
tain the extent of our injury. By digging down un-
til the ice becomes fairly thin between the diggers and
the water, and letting it freeze thicker below before
digging again, we may be able to reach to a good
depth.

At six p. M. Alexey and Aneguin, who liau been
away all day, came back with a bear skin as evidence
of having killed a bear. They came across her and her
cub about seven miles to the westward of the ship.
Alexey's two dogs at opce tackled to for fighting, and
before the bear was shot she managed with her paws to
give one of the dogs a bad wound in the foreleg, and
nearly to tear the toes off another. In the melee the
cub esciiped. Knowing that it wjis +oo late to get the
carcass into the ship, the natives skinned it, and then
buried the body luider ice and snow until to-morrow.
This makes a welcome addition to our food for the dogs,
and will enable us, I hope, to tide over the present cold
snap until mild weather sets in. opens the ice, and lets '
us bag a few walruses and seals for them. The ice is
getting uneasy again, for at four a. m. soiuids of move-
ment came from the 8. E. and F., following some short,
slight shocks the ship had experienced at three.

>ne p. M.,

s. s. w.

itains, or
sing tlio
(1 is the
WranL>el
1 miles,
e ice uii-
lie stem,
an ascer-
own ini-
U'ers and
w before
I a good

laci been

evidence

' and her

the ship.

ing, and

paws to

leg, and

lelee the

get the

nd then

morrow.

le dogs,

ent cold

and lets

he ice is

1" move-

le short,

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

287

At one A. M. faint aurora, chiefly in N. E. and \V.
N. W. Lunar circle. At two a. m. very faint auroral
patches. At three, faint auroral glinnner in W. N. W.
The sun was raised by refraction above the liorizon be-
fore six A. M. At eleven a. m. broken curtain arches
10° and 20° in altitude to N. E., extending from E. to
N. At twelve the auroral display is thus described by
Mr. Collins : " An exceptionally beautiful auroral dis-
play commenced shortly before midnight. From W. by
S. to N. E., and chietlv south of zenith from 10° to 15°
in .altitude, an auroral band excended in a series of Hat,
semi-elliptical curves opening to the northward. On
the inner or northward edge of the band it was bril-
liantly white, while the light faded down towards the
southern horizon to a pale, cloud-like intensity, in which
faint lines would occasionally show. To the north-
ward of the zenith very meagre bands of long stream-
ers hung across the sky. A peculiarity of the display
was the regularity with which the curves (which were
moving slowly along the band from W. to E.) broke
into rapid and distorted undulations when they arrived
at a point lying Avithin the space apparently occupied
by the constellation Ursii Major. There the east end
of the curve would suddenly deepen and double back
sharply, while the aurora would be violently agitated,
and would show the prismatic colors with extraordinary
vividness. Occasionally, the organization of the orig-
inal (.'urve would be maintained, notwithstanding the
extraordinary rapidity of the movements around its mar-
gin ; out usually the curve was broken, or seemed to
collapse, to be succeeded by forms in the zenith of out-
line indescribable because of the rapidity of the changes.
At times it seemed as if there were two distinct strata
of aurora, the lower one being most agitated, so that

I I

r ..»

If." !

I-

288

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

the prismatic colors in modified tints crossed and re-
crossed each other, while the whole looked like a mag-
nificent pyrotechnic display on which various colors and
intense lights were thrown.

'• In the W. the band showed occasionally that at a
f^reat distance in that direction similar movement was
in progress, while to the eastward such a movement
was plainly discernible, the rapid changes of the fold-
ings in the band taking the forms of spiral curtains.
The whole display, after lasting a half hour, moved to
northward of zenith, fading as it went."

In my remarks on the 14th December, I mentioned
our experience in reference to a statement of Wcy-
precht, that " beginning at a certain thickness the ice
is almost free from salt." Besides testing the ice six-
teen inches tliick, we have since tested ice four feet
thick, and found it full of salt. Evidently we have not
reached that " certain thickness."

In Dr. Kane's narrative of the De Haven Expedition
he makes the following statements : '' By the time we
had reached the middle of Barrow Strait, and the win-
ter's midnight of December had darkened around us,
our thermometer indicating a mean of 15° and 20' be-
low zero, the ice attained a thickness of three feet, with
an almost tiinty hardness, and a splintering fracture at
right angles to its horizontal plane. Sucli ice was at its
surface completely fresh, and when tested with nitrai;^
of silver gave not the slightest discoloration." To ques-
tion such an authority as Dr. Kane is considered to liave
been is a somewhat rash undertaking for me, but I as-
sert thatwe have tried all thicknessesof ice, from surface
elllorescence to fioe pieces eight feet in thickness (which
had been up-ended in pressures), and have never found
any which would upon melting give potable water. If

THE UETUKN OF DAYLIGHT.

289

his nitrate of silver had any nitrate of silver about it,
his test must have been a good one; and the extraor-
dinary, and even marvelous and miraculous, finding of
fresh ice (potable Wiiter) nuiy be ascribed to the pres-
ence of fresh-water ice from the land, which presence
can only be accounted ior by the equally miraculous
tioe of melting glacier upon a salt ocean, remaining ac-
ooinmodiitingly unruffled until the superimposed fluid
had had time to freeze.

Again Dr. Kane says that the floes " which had
formed in mid winter at temperatures below minus oO°
were still fresh and pure, while the floes of slower
growth, or of the early and late portions of the season,
were distinctly saline. Indeed, ice which only two
months before I had eaten with pleasure, was now .so
salt that the very snow which covered it was no longer
drinkable." In respect to this I can only say that we
have tried ice frozen at all temperatures, from zero to
minus 30°, and have never had the same satisfactory
result. And Dr. Walker, who was with McClintock in
the Fox, says (as further and more worthy authority
than my statement), •' Yet in no case (and my observa-
tions extend from below the freezing point to minus
42"") could I obtain fresh water, the purest being of
specific gravity 1.005, and al'fording abundant evidence
of the presence of salts, especially chloride of sodium,
rendering it unfitted for culinary purposes, much less
for photographic use." And he further says : '• Per-
haps the statement of Dr. Kane that sea -water ice, un-
der certain circumstances, is completely free from salt,
may be explained by the following facts and experi-
ments : After our winter preparations had been com-
menced, and the pool of fresh water (froni melting

snow) had been frozen over, the men sent out to bring
19

290

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

'. I

in snow for culinary purposes brought in some ice in-
stead ; this they obtained from some hummock near the
ship, these hummocks being part of the formation of
the previous winter's pack in which we were caught.
The ice turned out to be sufficiently fresh for all the
purposes of domestic use. On several occasions the
parties sent out for this ice, digging too deep into
the hummock, and not content with the surface pieces,
found that the ice was no longer fresh, but quite salt —
this ice being a continuation of the same hummock,
and also of the previous winter's growth."

Now, it is a matter of historical record that the De
Haven Expedition had scurvy, De Haven being among
the invalids. Weyprecht's party also had scurvy ; and
later still the English Expedition of 1875 broke down
with it. Dr. Kane, with nitrate of silver, could find
no salt in ice formed from salt-water ; and the sur-
geon of the Alert says he tested the water used with
nitrate of si^ er, and found it perfectly pure. The
water used was from refrozen pools of water on the top
of a lioeberg. Dr. Walker further says: "On the 12th
and loth August, 1857, whilst lying off Browne Islands,
and within about four miles of the glacier, surrounded
by bergs, I noticed an appearance like oil on the sur-
face of the water. On closer inspection and testing,
this proved to be fresh water iloating on the surface of
the salt to the depth of two or three inches. The sun
beamin[>; down upon the bergs had melted the ice and
snow ; this miming off, floated on the surface and re-
mained separate so long as there was no wind to mix
and agitate the tluids of different densities. To a com-
bination of such circumstances, with an after-freezing
of this siu-face water, do these fresh Inunmocks owe
their origin. The water, being frozen in this state, and

! II

mmm

«M

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

291

LS owo
te, and

afterwards the ice elevated into the hummocks, afforded
us a • drinkable element ' during the winter ; and when
the men had exhausted the supply of top-pieces, they
supposing that all was alike, continued their labors, but
were disappointed in obtaining salt-water ice instead of

May it not be within the limits of possibility that the
men of the De Haven Expedition dug too deep at times,
and that brackish water, or at least not potable water,
was consumed in sufficient quantities to sow the seeds
of scurvy, whi<!h, by hard work and exposure in the
case of sledge-parties, and dampness and foul air in the
case of the ship-keepers, came to maturity ?

As if to remove all lingering doubt as to his mean-
ing. Dr. Kane says : " The surface crust bore me readily
this evening at a temperature of 21° and 19°, giving no
evidence of thaw. Beneath, for two inches, it was crisp
and fresh. As I tried it lower, cutting carefully with
my bear-knife, it became spongy and brackish. At
eight inches remarkably so ; and at and below twelve,
salt-water paste. On the other hand, all my observa-
tions, and I have made a great many, prove to me that
cold, if intense enough, will, by its unaided action, in-
dependent of percolation, solar heat, depending posi-
tion, or even depth of ice, produce from salt water a
fresh, pure, and drinkable element." We have con-
ducted many experiments with no such experience to
record. And in order that I may have it in a succiiu-t
and comprehensive shape, I have requested Dr. Ambler
to make me an official report on the whole subject,
which will make up our version of the fresh water
question. (See Appendix F.)

March 17th, Wednesday. — The crew were engaged
again to-day in digging away the ice under the bows.

f^mium^

~:T. <

I I

292

THE VOYAGE OF THE ,TE ANNETTE.

We have now got down to the eight foot mark, and
have such a thin layer of ice between the hole and 'he
water that digging has to cease. If we let the water
through it will How up and freeze, and we shall have a
mess again up to the original level ; but if we let the
freezing go on downward for some time we may be able
to dig deeper. In connection with this freezing down-
ward, it is a subject of inquiry as to what depth this
freezing can take place. We have not seen any single
floe of greater thickness than seven feet, ten inches,
and I suppose that eight feet may be assumed as the
maxunum thickness of floo ice by direct freezing, as
stated by Dr. Kane. Dr. Walker says that the Hoe ice
in which the Fox drifted had only live feet of thick-
ness. The Hoe which we saw and measured as having
seven feet ten inches thickness was a portion of tloe
hove up in the great pressures in November ; but
whether it was direct freezing, or a series of two or
more tloes overlying each other, I cannot say. When
we floated out to open water on November 28th, I com-
menced the regular measurement of the ice as it froze
by measuring in the iire-hole. The last measurement
made was on the 17th January, when the direct freez-
ing was forty-six inches since November 28th. This
was a piece of ice formed around us, and which had
been up-ended in pressure. Measurements in the (ire-
hole had become unsatisfactory, because of the ten-
dency of the ice to assume the sides of an inverted
fuiniel, and lead to grave doubts as to the position of
our measuring-rod. On the 4th March a crack in the
floe enabled us to get a thickness of four feet, direct
freezing <'>'*' thirty days, the freezing having commenced
when J .! a temperature of minus 36.5°. and con-
tiud' ik' the highest temperature recorded was

iiU-^HMMHM"^

need
con-
was

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

293

minns 22°. and the lowest minus 53°. So much of the
floe in which tlic ship is held is underrun by other floes,
that finding a clear place to bore for a single thickness
is like looking for a needle in a hay-stack. I have con-
cluded to wait until a fresh break will enable us to get
a correct vertical measvu'ement of the thickness of ice
frozen since November 28th. As ice is a non-conductor
of heat, it follows that there must be some thickness at
which the ice prevents the heat escaping from the water
inider it, and places a limit to the depth of freezing.
At the time the ice was four feet thick the surface
floated only four inches above the level of the water.

The bear which Alexey shot yesterday was brought
in by him and a dog-team to-day. Nothing could be
seen of the cub.

For the first time in the memory of the individuals
of this expedition we have seen a 17th of March (St.
Patrick's Day) that was not stormy. One of our dogs,
an old one, having a comical and quizzical counte-
nance, had long since been named " Paddy," and to-
day he was treated to a piece of green ribbon around
his neck, and placed alongside of the Baxter engine, a
proceeding so unusual as to occasion him considerable
astonishment. The dogs in general, and the names
given to some of them, merit a special mention, which
I shall give them some day. Kasmatka, Tom, Quick-
silver, Jack or Prince, Smike, Snoozer, Bismarck, Paddy,
Skinny, Foxy, Plug Ugly, Dewclaws, Joe and Jim,
Johnny Armstrong, Dan, and Wolf.

March ISth, l^irsdai/. — Land was sighted in the
afternoon bearing S., — the direction of the north side
of Wrangel Land. The sky became streaky and ugly
looking, promising some bad weather. The wind com-
menced to moan through the rigging sharply. By

>^j» O' ni i n nJ i i --w*

204

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

eleven the wind got to and remained at W., blowing
at midnight with a velocity of ten miles per hour. At
midnight lunar halo 4° in diameter, showing prismatic
colors. Strong light reflected from the tloe while under
the moon.

Marcli 19//i, Frklay. — A day without any extraor-
dinary occurrence, except that at five p. m., local time,
the sun crossed the line coming N., and had as an ac-
companiment all day a brisk N. N. W. wind, overcast and
cloudy about one half the time. Much snow dust driven
in the air by the gusts. If it Avere not for one or two
snow storms last fall (which, however, did not amount
to much) we should not have known what snow was
from our experience here. Much of the snow dust now
blowing about is from the elUoresccnce of the floe. At
seven and eight A. m. five sun dogs in the sky. At mid-
night lunar halo, showing faint prismatic colors.

March 2Qth, Saturday. — Weather clear and pleasant.
To my great satisfaction, as insuring a certain amount
of food for the dogs, Alexey shot an immense walrus
to-day. So large was he that thirty ol" the dogs and
four men could not drag him in over the rough ice,
and he was cut in two and one half brought in, leaving
the other half initil to-morrow. A rough calculation of
his weight would give a ton, although Nindemann says
he should have put him at 2,800 lbs. It is a fortunate
thing that our dogs are not particular as to what they
eat, — seal, bear, walrus, condemned meat, fish, slops,
all come alike to them. Quantity rather than quality
is the great object for their consideration.

Our position to-day by Chipp's observations of the sun
is in latitude 72° 22' 30" N., and longitude 177° 27' 03"
W., showing a drift since the 13th inst. of thirteen miles
to the S. 49° E. Until the temperature and the sun's

; f

TIffi HETUltX OF DAYLIGin.

205

altitude make it possible to take the daily observations
to some purpose, it will be difficult to connect any par-
ticular drift with iiny particular wind. I am quite con-
vinced that during the past winter onr dril'tinL!,' h.-is
been entirely caused by the winds and not by any cur-
rent.

Miircli 21.s/, Siouhiij. — Pumping and distilling as
usual. At eleven A. m. I inspected the ship. The damp-
ness on the berth deck has been, somewhat better dur-
ing the past week. We have been fortunate in keeping
the beds dry even at the worst, and but few of the
l)lankets even have got damp. Thanks to rubber bliin-
kets, and the system of overhauling and turning up the
bedding every morning, the berths have been kept
fairly dry and comfortable. Having abolished the (ire
in the deck-house, except on washing days (Mondays),
we save some drip and wet in that place, and also di-
minish our coal expenditure daily to fifty pounds.

The fire in the ward-room has only been lighted
once a week heretofore (Saturday nights, to heat water
for bathing), but it made things so uncomfortable for
Danenhower (our steady sick man) that for the last two
Saturdays it has been discontinued and will not be re-
sumed. All winter the officers have been sleeping at
temperatures at and below 82% and are none the worse
for it, seemingly preferring it. The great advantage of
it has been the perfect dryness which prevailed there
at all times.

At one p. M. read divine service in the cabin. From
eight p. M. to midnight we had a fall of soft snow. The
temperature, which began at minus 26°, rose to minus
5.5°, nuiking the air feel quite mild and pleasant. The
ice was in motion again to the N. E. at four a. m.

The men and dogs went out atj-ain this morning and

o o o

290

THE VOYAGI-: OF THE JEANNETTE.

I! '

brou<i;ht in the remaining half of the wahnis shot yes-
terdiiy, and by great good luck Alexey shot another
one, and secured him ready for dragging in to-morrow.
This sets us at ease for dog food, for Ave have now two
walruses and one hear as a stock on hand. Tlie last
heiu' killed (a nursing she-hear) does not seem in good
condition for our eating, and we shall turn her over to
the dogs.

Jl'irch 2i}d, 7)i('s(Jfi)/. — The crew were engaged in
digging away the ice under the bows. We got down to
a point on the stem where the draught would be six and
one half feet, and not caring to dig any deeper, lest we
should break through the remainino; ice and admit the
water, the digging was discontinued. At that depth no
injury could be detected, although diligent search was
made. The whole bow was dug out to that depth, as
far aft as the line of the bulkhead which we built across
the fore peak, and not a sign of an injury could be
found. I am more than ever of the opinion that our
forefoot is the seat of the damage. At midnight, how-
ever, all our labor was in one sense lost, for the pres-
sure of the water underneath w.as too much for the thin
layer of remaining ice, and holes were broken through
sufficient to flood the large pit under the bow.

The only thing worthy of note to-day was a parhelion
at noon, consisting of a circle of faint prismatic colors
and 35^ in diameter around the sun, with a mock sun
on either side, and an inverted arch 2° above it show-
ing strong prismatic colors. Our days are lengthening
in the most comfortable manner, although the temper-
ature still keeps low. Broad daylight until 7.30 p. m.
is something worth having. A light is needed to read
the instruments at eight p. m., and for that only, for
there is light enough for all other practical purposes.

THE RETUllN OF DAYLKillT.

20:

iper-

read
', for
oses.

It is not so very long ago as it secins to ino when I re-
corded it as something noteworthy that we could read
the anemometer at noon without a lantern. In fact,
there are some among us who claim to be able to see it
even at midnight when there is no moon.

By this morning tiie water was at the height of ten
feet ten inches on the stem, and had there reached its
level. 1 do not think the ship would draw that amount
of water were she free to float, for she is no doul)t
firndy held by the mass of ice which formed jiround
her since our coming here on the 'J-")th November, at
which time her draught of water was nearly eleven feet
forward. When she does get free I tliink she will draw
much less forward, because we have been steadily light-
ening her by consumpti mi of coal and by moving so
manv wei<>;hts aft. Additional liu;htening forward will

•/ O OCT

be attempted when mild weather comes, by trimming
all the coal and getting more provisions aft, my object
being to get the water level below the line of the berth
deck. This we can do with a draught of nine feet, and
then we can shut the bulkhead across the fore peak and
manage to carry the fore peak full of water without
danger, stopping our steam pumping and saving coal.

We went to work again to-day digging away the ice
imder the stern, so as to get the propeller frame and
perhaps one blade clear. Land was seen in the after-
noon bearing S., — the same two peaks with a saddle
between them which wo liave seen before, and suppose
to be the N. side of Wrangel Land.

March 2bth, Tlmrsdaij. — Weather clear and plea>-
ant until ten a. m., the wind prevaUing from W. S. W.
From ten a. m. to ten p. m. the sky was overcast, and
from noon till six p. m. a thick fog surrounded us. Many
openings occurred in the ice between S. E. and S. W.,

1:1

\\\

(i i

ff'yt^.'."

2!)S

THE VOYAdK OF TIIK JKAXNF/I TE.

iiidioiitod ])y liirj^c (pumtitit's of i'soji])in<^ vapor, sne-
coodc'd by a water-sky. I am inclinod to think that
much if not all of tho wator-skios \\v read ahout dur-
iiijif winter, sprinu,-, and fall, instead of indicatin<^ water
spaces at that moment indicate where open water lias
heen. For, when openings occur at a time at whi(!li tho
temperature of the air is below that of the uncovered
Avater. such masses of vapor are <^iven oil' that the air is
filled with them in their immediate locality. When the
youn<>; ice forms on the surface, the escape of vapor
ceases. The color of the new ice is dark green or dark
blue until the eillorescence occurs, and it is this dark
space reflected in the sky as in a mirror (in broad con-
trast to the dead whiteness of the rellected ice-field)
that gives rise to the reports of extraordinary continu-
ance of open water.

In digging away the ice under the stern we suc-
ceeded in uncovering the upper part of the propeller
frame, and then had to stop lest we should make the
remaining la3'er of ice too thin for the pressure of water
from below. No sign of any damage was apparent.

We are extremely fortunate in lying here so long
without having serious disturbance. Since the IDtli of
January, when we were injured, we have had no serious
conflict with our enemy. Every new and full moon,
however, the ice has opened, and the horrible grinding
and crashing has gone on, but at such distances from us
as to be inoitensive. Almost every day somebody has
seen the result of pressures, — great confused ma^soa
piled up thirty and forty feet in height. Sharvell came
in the other day and said he saw, about five miles north-
west of the ship, ice piled up as high as our mast-head.
He evidently regards our destruction, by reason of our
reaching that mountain of ice, or that mountain of ice

ggste^Bgjrtiag-'^,'. w.uJ!.'— 'a.JjL

stt:

THE HKTUnN OF DAYLKJHT.

2!»!)

ice

nviching us, ns iiu'rcly a (lucstion of time; for lu» asked
Melville the other day why 1 was having the big widnis
skull cleaned and saved, for when the ship was smashed
.such a big head would he a heavy weight to drag over
the ice.

Although the commotions in tiie ice at a distance
have not affected our lloe, it has undei'goiu' change
from another cause. At different times this winter
when we have had trouble close aboard, the pressures
and upheavals have maiU; our iloe humpy and ridgy, in
sonu! places confused j)iles of ice standing live and six
feet, and sometimes twenty feet in height. Not only
the height but the shape of these piles has changed.
At first 1 supposed it might have been a kind of settling
down or coming in closer contact by downward weight
and pressure constantly applied to a smoother floe be-
neath, but now I have become convinced that it is
caused by the wind. The steady friction on the ex-
posed surfaces, in part, and the action of driving snow
dust and salty elUorescence acting after the manner of
a sand-blast have slowly but surely ground the surfaces
down. When in high winds the driving of snow and
salt from the surface of the tloe has made our faces
tingle and smart like so many needle pricks, it must
have had an appreciable effect on intervening blocks
of ice.

Another curious fact, though easily explained, has
come inider our notice. The ice floats deeper in winter
than in sunuuer. To do this its density must be greater,
and our experience in ice digging has shown that it has
been of the hardness and closeness of flint. When we
came into the ice in August and September, we foun<l
it to some extent soft and honey-combed, being so ren-
dered by the warmth of the water induced by the heat

I
tl

1i l!

3B^^ljiL.

-iTiffriiahiiJffYjJI

300

THE VOYAGE OF THE .TEANNETTE.

:i n

I /

of the summer sivi.. and in consequence it floated higher
above the surface.

March 26^A, Friday. — Sounded at noon in thirty
fathoms, muddy bottom. Strong drift to W. indicated
by lead hue ; so strong was it that Mr. Dunbar had
great difficulty in getting an up and down sounding,
the lead being swept off the bottom. Ice three inches
in thickness formed over sounding hole since noon yes-
terday. A fresh gale from E. S. E. and E. all day. The
temperature began at minus 12.5°, but by ten A. m. had
gone up to zero, and after having reached 4.5°, closed
the day at 3°. So much heat was startling, and induced
us to face the wind for its soft and warm effects.

Clear and pleasant weather until sunrise just before
six A. M., when it became overcast and gloomy and re-
mained so. Much fine driving snow fell, and as soon
as it had drifted into little ridges, say six inches deep, I
scooped up two handfuls of it and had the surgeon test
it ; but alas ! even newly fallen snow had, in being
driven across the face of the floe, caught up and car-
ried along too much salt, I shall soon believe that it
drops salt irom the sky. We also had a thick fog for
five or six hours in the middle of the day. Previous
thereto the ice opened and clcr;.!.-. of vapor escaped,
and then the opening must have been so extensive
as to cause the fog.

March 27 fh, Saturday. — A breezy day. The tem-
perature commenced at 4°, and went up steadily to 13°
as the day ended. Much fog between six and ten p. m.,
proceeding from evidently extensive openings in the
ice to the southward and eastward of the sliip. By
Chipp's observations to-day we are in latitude N. 72°
20', longitude 178° 07' W., showing a drift since the
20th inst., of fourteen miles to N. 63° W. This is prob-

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

301

being

le tem-
to W

\\ V. M.,

in the

N. 7r

nee the
IS prob-

ably the result of the fresh E. and S. E. winrls we have
had for the past two days. In a few days I shall re-
lieve Chipp of the extra duty of taking sights, and
shall make daily observations, when possible, for posi-
tion to determine the extent and character of our drift,
and its connection with the direction and force of the
wind.

March 2Sih, Sunday. — Pumping and distilling as
usual. A singular circumstance occurred during the
past Aveek in connection with the leak. On Wednesday
and Thursday the amount of water coming into the
fire-room was about eight times as much as before and
since. No greater amount of water seemed to come in
forward, but yet it was necessary to keep the steam-
cutter's engine going nearly all the time aft. During
these two days the forge was lighted in the fire-room,
for some machinist's work, and as the heat from it was
sent up the smoke-stack we supposed that it might have
caused a melting of the ice therein, and thus added
to the amount of water in the fire-room bilge. To
strengthen this supposition, when the fire was extin-
guished the water went back to its old condition. But
then, to our surprise, the fire-hole, about thirty feet
from the mizzen chains, was found closed up, a £lab of
ice having shoved in under. Now what ciiange could
have gone on under the ship to affect the leak? At no
time was any sound hea^d by us in the cabin, the men
in the forecastle, or the watch in the lire room. Tlie
whole thing is a puzzle to us yet.

At midnight a faint dawn light could be seen on the
northern horizon. At eleven a. m. I inspected the ship.
The berth deck has !."> .i somewhat drier during the
past week, but the deck-house is and has been in a
fearful slop. This is unavoidable, because, however un-

'IJ:

302

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

^1''

; i

1 '>.
1 ^'■■

i ^^'

14
* 1

III

necessary heuting may have been, during the past \veek
we have been obliged to keep the D ixter going, to run
the forward bilge-p imp.

If we only could get down to the leak and tinker at
it wo might do something. If Ave could have open
water enough we might build a coffer dam and get it
under the bow ; or if we could get the ship into a har-
bor and beach her, we would be all right : but these
things seem impossible in our present position. The
amount of care and anxiety on my mind, trying to plan
all things for the best, will last me for my lifetime.

A result of the high temperature to-day was the cov-
ering of all the bolt-heads on the outside of the ship
with frost. The heat of the sun has long since melted
all the snow on our black sides, and the round masses
of frost stood out like white bull's-eyes. The metal
bolts have been so cold that the coming in contact with
a warmer air has condensed and deposited the frost. At
one p. M. performed divine service in the cabin. Aloxey
and Aneguin were out to-day in quest of game, and
going about two miles to the S. E. of the ship came to
open water, in which they shot a seal. While Aneguin
came back for kyack, Alexey shot three more, but
luifortunately he only got one out of the lot. It came
in time, for we had eaten the last half of our last seal,
and wanted one in readiness for next Sunday's dinner.

March 2d(h, Monday. — Commenced to-day to break
out the forward store-room to clean out the frost and
get ready for our permanent stowage. This is going to
be a serious affair, for the fore hold and fore peak nuist
be kept empty in case of a sudden increase in the leak,
and yet we cannot keep our spar deck filled with pro-
visions as it is now. Our efforts will be directed also
to getting as much weight aft as possible to bring her

THE RETURN OF DAYLIGHT.

303

head up, and we are seemingly filled up chock-a-block
now aft. However, Chipp is charged with the more
than herculean task of finding room for •' more " (when
everything is filled up), and 1 have no fear as to the
result. We shall be in a fearfully bad trim for sailing ;
and as for steaming, it is a thing almost out of consid-
eration except for a few days. A glance at the coal
account shows that I anticipate having but sixty-three
tons of coal on hand May 1st. Keeping thirty-five tons
for use in case we are caught here another winter, leaves
us but twenty-pight tons for steaming, pumping, and
cooking Jurf- J ih summer. The galley uses Ih tons
per mon'h. aiiu for pumping we need, say, Si tons ;
28 — 5 X 4^=8 tons for steaming !

March SOth- Tuesday. — By my observations to-day
I place the ship in latitude 72° 36' N., longitude 178'
07' W., seven miles N. of her position on the 27th inst.,
and almost identically the same position as occupied on
November 30th.

I ■

>guui
, but
came
al.

mer.

)1'0

st an(

ing to
must
leak,

pr
al
J her

o-
so

t ;

_■■- -r '^

!*■

i
f

V-i

■1m

CHAPTER VIII.

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

April— May, 1880.

Change of Routine. — Saving Fuel. — Driving a Dog Team. — A
New Resource. — Buds. — Dampness and i 1 ' '"'aimed Food. —
Completion of a Windmill. — Winter Ling in the Lap of

Spring. — Peramican. — Wasting of the Ice-H; . — Drift- Wood.
— Walrus. — Distant Land. — A Deep Hole. — Sunshine at Mid-
uight. — Target Siiooting. — Pure Water. — Bears and Birds. —
Gloomy W^eather. — Habits of the Dogs. — The Crew's Quarters. —
Danenhower's Condition. — The Ice as a Sledge-Road. — Bear
Hunts. — The Sick List. — Patience and Dullness. — Discouraging
Outlook. — Sledging. — New Leaks. — Looking for Release.

April Imt, Thursday. — This month opens with a
very pleasant incident. At 8.15 A. m. Ericksen rushed
into the cabin announcing, " There is a big bear right
under the quarter." Away rushed Chipp, Dunbar,
Newcomb, and the doctor, the three former with ri-
fles. Alexey and Nindemann were ah'eady on the ice
in pursuit of a fine hirge bear, all the dogs surround-
ing it, yelping and barking, and driving poor Bruin al-
most wild with the din. Shooting under these circum-
stances was almost certain to result in killing a doj;, so
the bear was enabled to get away about a mile from the
ship. The dogs managed him beautifully. While about
twenty of them would surround him out of reach of his
paws and distract his attention, a half dozen of them
would bite him, mr.king the hair fly by mouthfuls. The
bear would then throw them ofl', and, sitting on his

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

305

haunches, reach around for them with his fore paws.
This movement gave Alexey and Dunbar a clioice
point for firing, and Alexey put a bullet into him,
which dropped him. He got up again and renewed
his fight with the dogs, until Dunbar finished him with
another bullet. He was a beautiful animal, eight feet
in length, three feet five inches in height, and weighed
six hundred and seventy-five pounds gross weight. His
stomach was perfectly empty. He had got within one
hundred yards of the ship, when the dogs sighted him
and made him turn.

A change in the routine is made for the spring and
summer. When we are moving again some modifica-
tions will occur.

April 2d, Friday. — Daily routine, commencing
April 1st, 1881 : —

5.00 A. M. Call ship's cook and cabin steward.

5.45
7.00
7.30
8.30

9.00
9.30

11.00
12.00 M.

Call executive officer.

Call all hands.

Breakfast by watches.

Turn to ; clear up decks ; clear fire-hole ;

get soundings, etc.
Watch below to go hunting.
Clear forecastle ; open doors and scuttle

for ventilation until 11.30 ; inspection

by executive.
Hoist the recall flag at the fore.
Dinner by watches.

1.00 P. M. Turn to ; watch below to go hunting.
5.00 Hoist recall flag at the main.

5.30 Supper by watches.

6.30 Turn to.

8.00 Boatswain and carpenters report the de-

partments.

if* .

lli

} .fl

306

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

9.00 r. M. Open forecastle doors, and partly open
scuttle until morning.

10.00 Lights out in forecastle ; noise and smok-

ing to cease.

By tUis new routine we still have but two cooked
meals a day. The tea water for supper is boiled on the
fire in the stoves in the cabin and berth deck as hereto-
fore since November 1st. This arrangement will hold
good as long as we keep the stoves going. But as I
shall stop them as soon as we can safely (not comforta-
bly) do without them, in order to save every lump of
coal, some other way of boiling the tea water has to be
devised. While Melville and I v.ere talking it over to-
night, we thought it would be possible to make a little
fire in the observatory stove do\m in the fire-room each
evening, which would ))oil all the tea water together.
But it suddenly Hashed into his mind that as we should
be pumping by steam as long as the coal lasted we could
boil the tea water by steam also. And with him to
think being to act, the whole thing is un fait accompli
If we can get along with pumping by the Baxter en-
gine alone, we niiiy have a little trouble in thus boiling
ui! ; water by steam ;, "o :'cause the steam-room is so shal-
low that salt spray is lifted and carried along with the
steam, and would mix with our tea water. If we are
using the steam-cutter's boiler continuously, there will
be no difficulty, for as it has a steam-drum on top of the
boiler all danger of lifting salt spray is eliminated. How
we may have to use it and the Baxter together, or only
one of them, will appear a little later.

We took out the port forward bilge-pump to-day, and
put it down the fire-room hatch into the fire-room bilge,
cutting a hole on the after side of the hatch coaming on
the starboard side for the pump deliver}/. When it is

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

307

secured in place we shall move the Baxter engine and
boiler down to the fire-room, and connect them by gear-
ing somewhat similar to that now in use for the pump
brake. Then the Baxter and steam-cutter's boiler be-
ing side by side, — the one delivering water on the spar
deck, the other delivering water through the side, — we
shall open the forward floodgates and let all the water
come aft into the fire-room. If the Baxter can pump all
the water, we shall save the coal now consumed by the
steam-cutter's boiler ; if the steam-cutter's boiler can do
the work, we shall save the coal now used by the Bax-
ter. At all events, if one alone cannot do it, we may
light a fire under the steam-cutter's boiler in time to
get tea water for supper, and pump with it also, say
twelve hours, using the after bilge-pump by hand oc-
casionally, if necessary, and thus save the coal now
burned in twelve hours by this little boiler.

I mention these items minutely, to show how care-
fully we are watching our coal pile and making every
pound do its work. I suppose any sensible person will
admit that the propriety of pumping by steam is un-
questionable. Under ordinary circumstances of a ves-
sel at sea springing a leak, hand pumping for a long
period to make a port is to be expected. But here in
the Arctic seas, where for more than two months we
have been leaking, and when for perhaps two months
more we may be fast in the ice, the situation is quite
different. Supposing tliat we had resorted to hand
pumping, very probably one half of the ship's company
would have been on the sick-list by this time, or if not
sick at least worn out ; and had any accident cruslied
the ship and forced us to abandon her, in what condi-
tion would the crew have been to march two hundred
miles over the ice, dragging heavy sledges, to the near-
est settlement?

If . 1

* ^ 1
I

308

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

i
11

Having completed the work of clean' ng and restow-
ing the forward store-room, we set to work to-day to
perform a similar service for the after store-room. Hav-
ing only the tent awning over the spar deck to protect
it, the beams in the store-room, the pumps, and the iron
knees made excellent condensers for all moisture formed
below in the ward-room, and passing into the store-room
through the communicating doorway. The forward
bulkhead of Danenhower's and Collins' rooms, though
well felted, likewise acted as condensers. Danenhow-
er's room was thoroughly scraped the other day by his
careful nurse, Johnson ; but Collins' room, being de-
layed, commenced to thaw on him last night, wetting
much of his clothing. The after store-room was one
mass of frost on the parts above indicated, the pumps
particularly seeming enlarged to twice their ordinary
^ize with ice.

The usual monthly medical examination was com-
menced to-day by the surgeon. So carefully has this
examination been conducted, and so thoroughly is the
men's condition known, and so satisfactory is the state
of our health (except in Danenhower's case), .that upon
the doctor's recommendation I decide to suspend the
monthly examinations for the present, say for three
months, unless some occurrence makes the resumption
prudent.

April 3(/, Saturday. — Mr. Dunbar, who seems to be
regaining his old strength and endurance (although his
gait is more like that of an old man than one of his
years), took a long tramp with Alexey and Aneguin
about seven miles S. E. from the ship. At that point
he came to some very heavy ice, seemingly aground, as
it had no motion, although with water around it. The
extent of water may have been two hundred feet in

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

309

length and fifty feet in width, narrowing to cracks at
either end. For several days he and I had observed
from aloft a long ridge of ice to the southward, and had
made conjectures as to its being stranded on a reef or
shoal ; and since he has gone out there and thinks it
looks much like it, he will on Monday make one more
trip to sound. He says that while ho stood on the tloe
edge looking at this ridge, everything being still, there
commenced a trembling of the ice on which he stood,
and a commotion in the water in front of him, when
suddenly a large mass of ice as big as the after part of
this ship cut off at the poop came up with a bound, and
settled to its line of flotation. Being in some unac-
countable manner liberated from the power that held
it under the floe, it made its way naturally to the sur-
face.

The surgeon's report is rendered to-day. Of the
eight officers, the condition of two is excellent, five
good, and one fair (considering) ; of the tweiicy-three
men, the condition of seventeen is excellent, six good ;
and the condition of the two natives is excellent.

Danenhower's case has no marked improvement.
With the confinement he has undergone, and the cer-
tain mental anxiety which he no doubt experiences, it
is wonderful that scurvy has not selected him as a fair
opportunity. As the temperature falls from G.8° to
minus 13.5° we are evidently not done with winter
yet.

The familiar grinding and groaning of ice in motion
was heard at one a. m. Somehow or other, I cannot
help anticipating a considerable disturbance at our next
new moon, on the 9th inst. Our sudden drift and re-
cent high temperature indicate a loosening of the ice
somewhere, and if we go toward the place we may be-
come mixed with it.

,■•;

310

THE VOYAGE OF THE .lEANNETTE.

I had almost begun to believe that I knew how to and
could niana<^e a doy; team, but I have changed mv
mind. Hitching up eleven dogs to-day to a heavy
sled, Melville and I started out on a cruise. We usually
have merely to start the team on an old sledge track
or foot way, and then, with the judicious use of a long
lashed whip, we can ride on the sledge as if it were
drawn by horses until the track ends or we wish to re-
turn ; but to-day we could neither lead nor drive. The
dogs would go a few hundred feet from the ship and
then bolt, dragging us back to the gangway. If one
of us took hold of the leaders, the middle of tlie team
would double back. Whipping on one side would make
them vault to the other, and though we occasionally
weathered the dogs by getting the sledge caught in a
snow bank, or capsizing it, when the curved ends would
serve as an anchor, it would be only long enough to
give us a breathing spell ; for as Ave had to get the
sled free ourselves, the dogs had it all their own way,
and tore us back to the ship. Finally, when almost ex-
hausted with our conflict, we had to send a man ahead
with the " sick " dog, who is a chum of Jack, our
leader, and so contrived to keep his attention occupied
while we managed the wheelers and mid-ship dogs.
Even then one of the dogs was so averse to going that
he would throw himself down, and be literally dragged
by the neck and body for a hundred yards or more at
a time, refusing to get up though beaten with the whip-
stock until I was tired. Thus we managed to get a
mile away from the ship, and then giving the dogs the
charge they rattled us back gayly.

AjJr'il 4ith, Sunday. — At ten a. m. had general mus-
ter and read the Articles of War, after which I inspected
the ship. The condition of dampness on the berth deck

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

3ck

is somt-what improved during the past week. The
deck-house, having been relieved of much of the load
of provisions stowed therein, .seems like a spacious
apartment emptied of its furniture. By the end of
this month the house will be for this season, at all
events, a thing of the past, for I hope the temperature
will have so far comfortably increased that we may re-
move it entirely. The forward and after store-rooms
having been cleaned and restowed are again in good
order and condition, though I fear the low tempera-
ture we are now experiencing may cause condensation
again, and, later on, result in thaw and Avet. The ward-
room and cabin are as usual dry and comfortable.

Ajjril t>th, Monday. — And now one would imagine
that we had arrived at the end of our resources for
saving coal without resorting to hand power. But it
is not so. Some days ago, in thinking matters over, I
recollected having seen pumps run by Avindmills, and
upon consulting Melville as to the practicability of mak-
ing the necessary machinery on board ship I was grati-
fied, but (knowing his genius and unfailing readiness to
adapt the means to the end) not surprised, to have him
say, " Can do it." He thought out all the details, and
has immediately commenced working drawings for the
construction of the windmill bilge-pump. He calcu-
lates that with a wind of velocity equal to five miles an
hour, we can have a mill that will do the work now
done by the altered main engine bilge-pump run by
the steam-cutter's engine. Of course when we have no
wind we must pump by hand if we wish to save coal,
but the number of hours of calm in a month has been
so small that I think we can safely take the chances for
the future.

Sounded at noon in thirty-three fathoms, muddy bot-

'■>i
I'l

. I

312

I'lrE VOYAGK OF THE .TEANNETTE.

Um\, a slijrht easterly drift heiii*^ inrlieated by the lead
lilu^ A .seal has found our souudinj^ place a conven-
ient breathin<^ hole, and comes there so rej^ulaily that
no ice has been able to form over the centre of it since
noon yesterday, but from the centre outward there is
ice six inches in thickness in some places. Sunrise at
4.24, sunset at 7.40. Ob.served to-day for position, de-
termining it to be in latitude 72" 30' N., longitude 178"
33' W., showing a drift since the 1st of eleven and ii half
miles to S. by W. Temperature begins at minus 2F,
falls to minus 23.5° by live A. M. This cold pnap is very
unwelcome, because we have moved the Baxter from the
deck-house, and have long since discontinued the deck-
house stove, and that edifice is consequently as cold as
charity. Looking forward to the future Avith the ex-
perience of the past, I think it is likely that this cold
will continue until the new moon on the 9th, after
which I hope we shall have quite a moderate .spell.

Mr. Dunbar in his wanderings to-day visited the ap-
parentl}'^ grounded ice again, and saw quite a lane of
open water, but nothing to shoot at. From our topsail
yard a narrow ribbon of water can be seen running
from S. W. around by W. to N. E., and averaging .seven
miles in distance from us.

April Qth, Tuesday. — For several evenings past, at
eleven p. m., I have noticed a long, low streak in the
N. W. that very much resembles land. It cannot be
seen on our brightest days, becau.se the sun shines
against it and hides it in the glare of the ice. But
when the sun gets below the horizon and behind it, it
comes out with distinctness enough to at least raise
the suspicion that it is land. Of course it may be a
stratus cloud, but it is somewhat singular that the same
shaped cloud should be in the same place every night.

UNOKK THE MIDNKWIT SU\.

?.13

As the sun continues to set later an(l later we shall cre-
lou^ resolve our doubts.

April 7th, Wc(hies(f(i)f. — lliiviu^^ finished all our
ooiniections with the new pump lig", and all hein^ in
readino <s, the cond)ination was tried this afternoon. It
worked to a charm. The Hood-gates were opeued, aud
all the water was allowed to come alt as freely as it
pleased. The Baxter then took hold and puniped it
out. While waiting for more to come aft, a source of
ditliculty was discovered which forces us to suspeud the
rig luitil milder weather. The discharge is necessarily
through a canvas hose leading from the lire-room hatch
across the spar deck to a convenient scupper, and so
to a hole wdiich was dug in the ditch on the star))oar(l
side through to the surface of the water. This hole, of
course, had to be covered immediately with a wooden
bo nd a snow-house to protect the water from ex-
pi to the open air and its temperature of minus

20° at times. But we could not keep the canvas hose
and the top of the pump from exposure to the air. and
consequently, while the pump was necessarily " spelled "
to wait for water, ice formed in the canvas hose and
choked it up. The tlood-gates were again closed, and
the water accumulated in the fire-room from time to
time was pumped out as before by the steam-cutter's
engine, while the remaining bilge-pump forward was
worked by hand as required. This we found to be
from five to ten minutes every half hour. The fires
under the Baxter were allowed to die out.

Our friend the seal comes still often enoutyh to
bi'eathe to keep a hole open in the centre of our sound-
ing hole, and so the ice is prevented from forming with
any degree of regularity.
• The ice was in motion immediately after sunrise, and

314

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

- {

\M i'

all along in the afternoon until six o'clock. The move-
ment seemed to be confined between N. W. and N.
Brilliant parhelion 22° in radius immediately after i-'im-
rise, and two brilliant sun dogs at five and six a. m.
Although the sun is below the horizon for about eight
hours, we liave daylight the wholtf twenty-four hours.
That is to say I c(msider enough daylight existing at
midnight to navigate the ship were there open water
to make it possible. No regular order of sunrise and
sunset can l>e marked from day to day, the time of
these events varying greatly with thi refraction. I am
scrupulously careful in my observations for position to
apply to the mean refraction Chauvenet's corrections
for height of barometer .and for temperature. At such
altitudes the corrections are not very large ; but when
the sun approaches its setting, foi instance, they are so
markedly important as to make their omissions a seri-
ous error.

Ajjril ^th, Thursday. — Our pumping goes on now
in this manner : When enough water gets aft into the
fire-room to be worth the steam, the little cutter's en-
gine pumps it out. At other times the steam-cutter's,
boiler distills water. Every time the bell strikes, the
man on watch works the forward spar deck bilge-pump
until it draws air, which it generally does in from five
to ten minutes. Our windmill pump rig gets on apace,
Melville being engaged in making necessary forgings,
and the carpenters working at such wood-work as :s
required.

April 9th, Friday. — Our new moon has come, with-
out any of the disturbance I anticipated ; not even a
jar occurred to note its arrival. The first bird of the
year arrived to-day. A raven, flying from thi: south-
ward, lighted on the ice near the ship long enough to

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

315

be plainly visible, and then flew to and disappeared
among the rough ice about one hundred yards from
us. Mr. Newcomb started after him to add him to the
collection, but failed to find him.

April 14th, Wednesday. — To-day our steward went
to work clearing oui the ice from the tiller- room. This
is a new name in my record, and requires explanation.
Last fall 1 had the doors opening from the cabin into
the chart-ruom unhung, and mounted between the pro-
peller well and chart-room bulkheads, completely shut-
ting off the after part of the cabin containing the
rudder head and tiller. This shut-out space has acted
as a perfect condensing chamber for the cabin, keep-
ing our mess-room dry during the lowest temperature
of the winter. I am stating nothing new when I
say that all moisture will tly to a cold surface and
condense. Shutting oft' the after pan of the cabin
has made a cold room into which the moisture has
penetrated, through cracks and the key-holes when
the doors have been closed, and in volunes through
the doorways when the doors have been opened,
and ice has formed there from tlie condensation. Now
that milder weather is coming, this must be removed,
or else melting, it w .11 run in streams. Of course the
condensing chamber has not benefited Chipp's room
or mine, for our air ports, forward bulkhead, and
the bulwark being exposed outside to the tempera-
ture of the air have supplieu the cold surfaces nearer
at hand for the condensation. The chart-rooms have
had some ice, but not much, form on the buhvaik
and book-shelves against the side, and of course the
air ports have been one mass of frost. I am flrndy
convinced that had our deck-house extended forward
to entirely cover the berth deck, the berth deck would

. '

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'\\]

316

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

;

have been dry ; and if we had not been obliged to use
our Baxter boiler for distilling, and afterwards for
pumping, so largely increasing the moisture which was
carried to the berth deck as to use up all the cold space
presented oy the sheet-iron ventilating cover, and air
port frames, and demand more, the deck would have
been drier than we have found it. As a rule for my
future guidance I will say. Provide the coldest sur-
faces in the desired places, and then the dampness and
condensation will be under control. This cold-surface
method annoys me in one way, namely, by fogging up
the glasses of the roof of the artificial horizon. 1 have
generally placed the horizon on the small table on the
tloe, but the table, having been moved the other day
for some purpose or other, has not been refastened
thoroughly enough to keep the mercury still in any
wind. 1 therefore place the horizon trough in the thin
snow on the Hoe, and grind down the roof into the
snow to keep out all wind. In a few moments the heat
of the sun through the glass next to it raises the tem-
perature within ; moisture arises from the warming
snow, and immediately flies to the cold surface, first
to the glass in the roof away from the sun, and there
deposits, becoming a film of ice as soon as the roof is
lifted from the snow.

By an accident or carelessness our water supply for
tlje day was spoiled this morning by Boyd, the fireman
on watch. Our steam-cutter boiler is fed from the sea
always, but on this occasion the feed was taken from
the bilge. The result was that the distilled water was
so bad in taste as to be nauseating. The water-barrel
will need several scourings and cleanings before it loses
the bad taste, and for a day or so we must fall back
upon snow-water.

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

317

Having a large stock of bear meat on hand, I ap-
proved Chipp's suggestion to make some of it up into
sausage-balls, mincing pork with it and adding pow-
dered herbs. Our St. Michael's salmon were finished
yesterday, and I fear we shall find it hard to supply
their place. Canned fish cannot be said to be a nour-
ishing or agreeable kind of food. An exception may
possibly be made in favor of canned salmon, but that
alone. We have a barrel of codfish which Captain Jes-
person, of the Fanny A. Hyde, caught while becalmed
off St. Lawrence Island, and which he salted down ;
and as the fish is solid it will be a more acceptable
food than the rags and small pieces which all canned
fish (except salmon) seem to be.

The work of restowing the small holds being com-
pleted, our quarter deck is now quite clear. What a
comfort it is to see the deck again after so many months
can hardly be appreciated by one who has not been
circumstanced like ourselves.

-4/>n7 15th, Thursday. — This morning upon getting
up I was inforr.ed that a suspicion of land to N. N. W.
was occasioned by the peculiar appearance of some
clouds in that direction. Upon going on deck I saw
whc* all seafaring people would call clouds hanging
over the land, but though ^^e peered anxiously and
l\opefully with glasses we could see nothing of the sup-
posed land underneath. A strong corroboration of the
suspicion occurred in the sight of two snow-buntings,
which flew towards the ship from the southward, and
after a moment's rest on the ice flew toward this sus-
pected discovery They mi jht have remained near the
ship, but as soon as they alighted on the ice under our
flying jib-boom the lean dog Wolf, always ready for a
mouthful, rushed for them and drove them away.

i u

^ I

318

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

j I

1!^;

I'\

Once more are my eyes gladdened by seeing the yel-
low top of the poop. We went to work to-day and
removed the thick coat of snow which has made it seem
all winter like the effect of an avalanche, and the
change is more than pleasing. The large amount of
dirt, ashes, empty cans, etc., which was alongside the
ship to port, was also removed to-day, a faint, disagree-
able odor arising from it, warning me how objection-
able ii might become a month from now. We are
slowly but surely cleaning up, and becoming more like
a ship than a frozen habitation.

Our bear sausage-balls were tried at breakfast to-dny
and pronounced good, though hardly seasoned enough.
That is a fault easily remedied, however.

Sounded at noon in thirty-three fathoms, a drift to
the N. W. being indicated by the lead line. The seal
kept a breathing hole open, but three and a half inches
of ice formed outr^ide of it.

April HJth, Friday. — We find that removing the
snow from the poop, thus uncovering the yellow-painted
canvas, presents a surface which attracts and absorbs
the heat of the sun's rays, and by radiation upward
affects the readings of our thermometers. Accord-
ingly (though the uncertainty of the ice makes their
situation risky) the box containing them is removed to
the lioe, and secured against two upright stakes driven
in the ice. The black bulb in vacuo is also removed,
and the anemometer will follow. I shall hope now that
no sudden smash-up of the ice will involve a loss. I
concluded to-day to move out the secretary bureau in
my room, and clear out the accumulation of ice from
behind it. The drawers had long since become so
swollen from the dampness as not to stir ; and though I
had the carpenter plane them down considerably, they

1.1'

the yel-
day and
J it seem
and the
nount of
:side the
iisagree-
bjection-
We are
lore Hke

it to-day
enough.

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drift to
Phe seal
f inches

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ing the
•painted
ahsorbs
upward
Accord-
as their
oved to
i driven
smoved,
ow that
Joss. I
reau in
;e from
ome so

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UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

310

pleased to swell up again so much and so quickly that,
I yielded the point and did not use my bureau again.
After a hard light to-day 1 got the bureau to move. So
much ice had formed between its end and the forward
bulkhead and its back and the bulwark that it was
frozen as one solid mass. I do not think I exaggerate
a bit when I say that over sixty pounds of ice were re-
moved. I took out one slab which weighed about
twenty-live pounds ; and there were in addition two
buckets full of small lumps and scraps picked up with
a shovel. The paint work of my room, which had be-
come a fine specimen of black color, was cleaned par-
tially by the steward, and the contrast of clean white
to beautifully dirty black is so glaring as to be almost
painful to my eyes. The frost in the lower drawer of
my bureau had taken full charge, making it necessary
for me to work with a hannner and break the ice be-
fore I could get a pair of pantaloons out. However, I
have suffered no inconvenience during the winter, and
by a little work now I have anticipated a thaw.

The walrus meat and the sucking mother bear, con-
demned for dog food, were some time since removed to
the floe from the house-top, and piled up alongside of
a whole walrus now lying there. This food is con-
stantly watched by the dogs, who change parties but
never relax in vigilance, lest by some mishap the dead
animals might get up and walk away. It took them
some little time to get accustomed to the order forbid-
<ling them to come on board ship at all, since mild
weather has set in, and we have cleaned up our cpiarter-
deck ; and they would line the gang-plank regularly
every evening, like chickens waiting to go to roost.
Since they have been feeding on walrus and bear meat
they have grown as fat as dumplings, and as lazy as

]

KMMM

■«••

320

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE,

'I. ;

•J

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human beings in the tropics, and they are so averse to
work that a sight of liarness will make the whole pack
skulk off.

Though the highest temperature to-day was only
plus 12°, the black bulb in vacuo gave its highest read-
ing at 108°. (If the ice in which we are so firmly held
were only black, how quickly would it melt in a vacu-
lun !) The black bulb in the sunlight and air gave plus
30° as its maximum reading.

April 17th, Saturday. — We commenced the day by
removing three thermometers from the box on the floe,
and substituting three others ; in case of any accident
1 do not want to lose those which we have read and
recorded all winter. Our standard, 4.313, is left in the
box for continuous record. During the day the ane-
mometer was also removed to the ice, so that we have
only the barometers left on board.

The windmill being completed was mounted to-day
en the ice, without sails, and rattled away in fine style.
We shall leave it running over Sunday to let all bear-
ing parts wear smooth, and Monday place it in position
on board ship. It will be tried first with the shifted
bilge-pump in the corner of the fire-room hatch, for if
it will work that, there is saved the necessity of mak-
ing a new pump rig of boiler tubes.

We took down to-day the forecastle tent awning,
letting a flood of daylight down on the berth deck,
where it has been so much needed. And to make room
for the windmill, the big skin boat baidera was re-
moved from the bridge, where it has been all winter,
and placed on barrels on the floe. Slowly, piece by
piece, we shall remo\'e our winter disfigurements, and
gain gradually a ship-shape appearance.

A very curious occurrence was noticed by me this

UNDEU THE MIDNKiHT SUN.

321

afternoon while taking sights. The jirtificial horizon
was placed on the ice as usnal, with the wind carefully
excluded by pressing the roof well into the surround-
ing snow. The surface of the mercury was smooth,
and the reflected image of the sun perfectly sharp on
its edge ; but there was a rising and falling of the iuuige,
gentle, of course (else the edge would have become
blurred), but so decided that 1 had great difficulty in
making perfect contact. It was as if the horizon trough
were in so nearly an exact equilibrium on a knife edge
that a breath produced and continued the motion.
Could it possibly have been a swell? I have thought
much over this occurrence, but cannot account for it.
If the whole ice-field had been swayed up and down
see-saw, I ought to have swayed with it, and the motion
of the mercury would not have been noticeable ; but
as it was noticeable, could there have been a break be-
tween me and the artificial horizon, and my piece have
remained fixed while the other one rose and fell ?

Considering that we are all (excepting Danenhower)
in such perfect health; that our scale of food contains
so much fi'esh bread and canned vegetables, with milk,
butter, and other anti-scorbutics ; that we have so many
fresh potatoes, sixty poiuids each week ; and that one of
our three barrels of lime juice is now consumed (since
December 6th, much sooner than I anticipated), I have
decided, upon consultation with the surgeon, to reduce
our consumption to an issue of the regular ounce on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. I think it would
be difficult to mention a more healthy crew in Arctic
experience than we are, after our winter of damp, cold,
anxiety, and danger. Before long these things will be
of the past, and we shall forget them in our expecta-
tions of the future.

(

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t«»>Hb>^yM«<wn>H'r^»

322

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

■•M

At two A. M. sounds were hesird from the S. E. and
E., where tlie ice was in motion.

Aj^ril 18th, iSimdat/. — Another week gone, nnd hut
a few miles nearer the pole than we were last Sunthiy.
The winter is '' lingering in the lap of spring " with a
vengeance. If tlie spring lingers in the lap of sunuuer
in like manner, our progress in any direction is very
prohlematical. One needs an inexhaustible fund of pa-
tience under these circumstances, and an amount of
hopeful anticipation not called for in lower latitudes.
Each night when I write up my journal. I am strongly
impressed with the fact that I have made no valualde
addition to it, and yet each night I hope for something
better on the morrow. Much as I have written here,
it conveys no idea of the extent of the thinking, which
cannot be recorded properly. No plans can ))e defi-
nitely formed in our situation. Much depends on what
is presented to us from day to day as the ice breaks up
(if it ever does), the condition of the leak at the time,
and our ability to handle the ship under canvas with
her necessarily bad trim. When the time comes action
will )jc taken, based generallv on the feeling that a fight
should never be given up while there is a chance of the
slightest success.

At ten A. M. I inspected the ship, finding everything
assuming tidy and ship-shape appearances, and being
impressed with the fact that if anything more were put
in the fire-room the engineer's force would have to
move on deck. Then divine service was performed.
Our Sunday dinner is always something looked forward
to with pleasure. All winter we have had roast seal or
roast bear with cranberry sauce, macaroni, potatoes,
pickles, bread, a soup, of course, duff, coffee, and choco-
late, and always a glass of ale, or porter, or sherry, as

11 -rfii I 'fi^ liifcrtdtttift-Mi -feiiiri

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

323

the case might be. 1 do not think our bill of fare could
be much improved.

As will api)eiir Irom my billn of fare mentioned herein
before, one day in the week, Satin-day, has been allotted
a certain amount of pemmican. Our American pem-
mican had been exclusively used to within a week, and
it occurred to me to give the English pennnican, carried
in the Alert, and purchased by Mr. Bennett from the
admiralty, a trial ; accordingly, an issue was mnde of it.
I confess w^ did not like it in its simple form a.'; well as
that of American manufacture It was dull and taste-
less. The pemmican was of the sweetened kind, much
preferred by the English to the unsweetened, as I was
informed by Captain Markham. It being suggested
that it would make a delicious soup, our Chinese stew-
ard was commanded to prepare some and alt o to make
a stew. Br.r ..s he decided in his own mind that he
knew a tii'^k worth two of ours, he mixed so many
things with the compounds — for instance, b.acon with
the soup, and corned beef with the stew — that we were
bewildered as to what particular taste predominated,
and the experiment had no value. I must admit that
the steward made very savory and acceptable food in
both cases, but our purpose was defeated for the pres-
ent. Between the two kinds eaten out of the hand, as
might frequently be the case while sledging, we give
the nreference to American pemmican. Besides having
moi* i.iisins to increase the saliva, the meat and fat go
down together, while in the English article the chewing
is driei and the fat seems to separate from the meat
nd cling to the roof of the mouth. As a soup and as
a stew, I shall express an opinion after a trial.

The wasting ar on of the ice-field on the surface, as
remarked by me heretofore, still continues. From

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324

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

aloft the view is far less discourf^ging than it was a
month ago. Then the ice-field v as all broken up by
confused masses and heaps of shattered floes, the result
of the whiter's conflicts. Under such circumstances I
fear five miles a day would have been an impossibility
with loaded sledges. Now these masses are greatly re-
duced, and though rough and hummocky they are not
impossible to pass ; I think a mile an hour might be
made without great difficulty. Then if we had been
forced to abandon our ship by her being destroyed we
could have reached the Siberian settlements only by a
miracle ; now, if our ship by some accident is taken
from us, our chances of reaching Siberia, or open water,
are greatly in our favor. By excellent observations I
establish our position to-day in latitude 72° 45' 46" N.,
and longitude 178° 16' W., and a magnetic variation
22° 15' JE.

April i9th, Monday. — In progressing with the Avork
of cleaning ship the starboard chart-room had its turn
to-day. The accumulation of ice was considerable l)ack
of the drawers, where the moisture from the cabin had
condensed, but not so great as in my room and in the
tiller-room. To try to force the backward spring I al-
tered the arrangement of things in my room, closing
the door leading into the chart-room, and opening the
door conmumicating with the cabin, and thenco by the
starboard door to the deck. I am somewhat premature,
I find, for my room is too cold for comfort, whereas
during the winter I v/as at least moderately comfort-
able. Having had the box containing the transit in-
strument under my mattress ever since leaving San
Francisco,.! concluded to place it under m-y berth in-
stead, thereby gaining a more comfortable rest in a less
elevated position.

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

325

it was a
cen up by
the result
nstances I
possibility
greatly re-
y are not
might be
had been
Toyed we
only by a

is taken
en water,
vations I
5' 46" N.,
variation

the work
1 its turn
ible back
abin had
id in the
ing I al-
, closing
iiing the
j by the
mature,
whereas
Romfort-
msit in-
ing San
erth in-
in a less

I do not know that I have laid particular stress hith-
erto on the excellent salt beef which we have. It is
served out on Monday regularly forward and aft for
dinner, in addition to the regular diet. It is beyond
exception the finest salt beef I have ever eaten. Our •
process of packing it in snow and soaking it in sea wa-
ter softens it »'(hile it entirely removes its saltness, and
it is thoroughly enjoyed. To-day our steward surprised
us with a delicious potato salad with canned chicken, —
a novelty, 1 undertake to say, never enjoyed before in
the Arctic regions after a winter's experience. We
have other good things in the shape of ale and porter
in barrels. Were I undertaking another cruise of this
character I would take three times as much as we
brought, at least, and as much more as the vessel could
stow. It is beyond all estimable value for cruises of
this kind. Hoff's bottled malt extract is no doubt very
good in its effect, but from its peculiarly bitter-sweet
taste it seems more hke a medicine than a beverage.
We have had a glass of ale, or a glass of porter, or a
bottle of this extract for dinner aft on Wednesdays
and Sundays, and forward it has been served out
sometimes once a week and sometimes once a fort-
night. We made an unpleasant discovery to-day in the
shape of fresh dampness on the berth deck. I think
that ice has formed between the frames outside of the
berths, by the condensation of moisture from the men
in sleeping. At all events a drip takes place into the
lockers under the berths, which makes it im})ossible to
keep clothing there. At the first of the leak caused
by iijjury to the ship, the water being choked off in
the fore peak rose between the frames and flpwod over
on the berth deck, keeping it wet, and now a similar
result is threatened. We shall avoid it, however, by

■1

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r«' i ii i Taaii »i

326

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

1' .«

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bolting long strips of battens lengthwise to the deck
in-board of the lockers and caulking them, and by bor-
ing holes in the deck to let the water descend into the
fore peak and flour-room.

Iversen, while a mile and a half south of the ship,
found and brought in the following articles : seven
'small pieces of wood, one bunch of vegetable matter,
one piece of birch-bark, and one small leaf. These
were, of course, originally from the land, probably Si-
Ijeria, but when, how, or under what circumstances
they left the land must remain a mystery ; although
we know that being found so close to the ship they are
not of this year's arrival. Nothing more has been seen
of the supposed land of the 15th inst., so I cannot
connect these fragments with it. At midnight heavy
water-sky from E. S. E. to S. W.

The windmill was mounted in place over the star-
board side of the bridge and secured. Two of the legs
of the supporting tripod rest on the bridge, and the
third on the water-tank. A hole is bored down through
the bridge for the connecting' rod which the machinist
is fitting, while Sweetman is at work with a new piunp
brake rig, to connect it with the bilge-pump, in the
after corner of the fire-room hatch.

April 2Qfh, Tuesday. — One of the two walruses
killed some time ago was left out on the ice close to
the ship until the want of dog food necessitated its
being cut up. At the time of its capture Alcxey re-
niiu-ked that " it had young one inside ; " and Mr.
Newcomb's zeal to possess it as a specimen almost
tempted me to have the necessary post-mortem ex-
amination made on the spot. As, however, it would
have been difficult to keep the meat from the dogs
(while left as it was its soon frozen hide made a per-

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

327

(logs
per-

fect armor, against which even dogs' teeth could not
prevail), I concluded to wait. To-day, however, it was
cut up, and to our astonishment, instead of a foetus, we
found pai't of a young seal (oogook) in its stomach ;
known io be young because having its first coat of
hair. It is weh l.nown that the walrus eats shell-lish,
clams, etc., which it digs up with its tusks, but this
fact proves the carnivorousness of this mammal.

Mr. Dimbar and Alexey while away on a tramp to-
day shot and apparently killed a walrus, but he es-
caped them by sinking. The place recommended to
fire at is under the throat upward, that the ball may
reach the brain. Such a tremendous bone is over the
brain that a bullet will flatten on it. Mr. Dunbar's
shot struck him in the neck, and the wound appeared
to craze him, for he tore along breaking through young
ice, bleeding heavily, without attempting to escape by
diving. Alexey then fired and hit him in the head,
wdiereupon the carcass straightened out and sank.

Everything being in place, the windmill was attached
to the shifted bilge-pump to-day and set to work. The
wind was hardly strong enough to enable it to work
this large pump, the mill occasionally heinging fire on
the centre. As it was originally intended for a pump
of boiler tubes three inches in diameter, making it work
a pump six inches in diameter was hardly a fair trial.
We were calling upon the pump for four times as much
work as it was designed to perforin. However, with
slight change, we believe we can make it work this
pump, and so save the time and labor necessary to
make a three-inch pump. The change suggested by
Chipp is tc remove the canvas sails and substitute tin
ones, which being but little heavier will stand flatter
and offer more resistance ; and this is put in train, the

■ .^Mm*,- ■•sa»i»s-"(

328

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

1 .1

ill ,

Ih.i..

dozen of empty titi boxes on the floe being used as .a
stock.

April 21st, Wednesday. — Upon examination this
morning we found that the ditch around the stern was
completely flooded, the lower layer of ice having evi-
dently been broken by the upward pressure of the wa-
ter beneath. No serious difficulty is anticipated from
this, however, because the comparatively reasonable
temperature which we are now experiencing will not
cause very heavy ice to form, which would hold the
ship down. We are still hoping and praying for a re-
lease. We have seen so much water- sky around us
that we have grown impatient at our imprisonment,
and anxious to move on in some direction or other for
a change. A raven {Cor mis carnivorus) came from the
southward to-day and stopped near the ship. But of
course the dogs ran for it, and it flew away, proceed-
ing to N. W. A very faint suspicion of land again, this
timo in N.

April 22d, Thursdcuj. — Another bird paid us a visit
to-uay, this time a small, dull-colored land bird, which
came from the S. E., and being driven oft* by the dogs
flew to the west in an nndulatory lliglit of quick, short,
intermittent strokes of the wings.

Snuffy, our dog with the broken nose, has a most won-
derful power to hold on to life. Although I know that
he will never be of use again, I hardly like to have him
shot, preferring to give him all of his life that he can
hang on to. Occasionally he seems going, as, for in-
stance, to-day, when he was lying on an old mattress
on the rubbish heap, seemingly at his last gasp. Being
occupied with taking sights, I postponed his shooting
until the afternoon, when, going out to see that he had
not died in the mean while, 1 found, him gone one hun-

mlttf!Mm>*

iXBKh^

■

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

329

dred yards or 80, and as frisky and far from death as
ever. No doubt this is a small thing to set forth at such
length, but when all days are alike, and but little occurs
to break the monotony, even an occurrence like the
foregoing seems an unusual item.

At nine p. m. we thought we saw land N. N. W. be-
yond a doubt. But as we brought our glasses to bear
on it, it was doubtful if it was not a cloud. There was
so much open water around the horizon, and so much
water-sky above it, that all sorts of shapes were pre-
sented to our view in mist or cloud. As we are now
where no ship has ever been, so far as is known, we are
prepared for some kind of a discovery, and as land is
most in our thoughts we are not unwilling to believe
the first ^^lance of our c^^es.

Amil 23(:Z, Friday. — Having a clear, bright day af-
ter eight A. M., we took advantage of the glorious sun-
light to air bedding and clothing, and at the same time
scrub and clean the berth deck. It will seem strange
to some to air bedding at a temperature between 3° and
7°, but to us the air is soft and almost balmy, and we
bathe, so to speak, in the brilliant light. To see our
dogs basking in the sun at this temperature, fat and
lazy as walrus meat and no work can make them, one
woidd imagine we were in the tropics. As the sun goes
down (somewhere now after nine p. m.), and our canine
friends begin to come home to roost, the moisture con-
Jcii..es on them as frost, and they look like pulf -balls.
But still they sleep on, insensible alike to cold and frost.
At 8.30 p. M. we had a visit from a snow bunting {Plec-
trojjhanes nixalifi). Before Newcomb could get a shot
at it the dogs went for the bird and drove it off. It
came from the E. and flew to the 8. W.

April 24th, Saturdutj. — Sounded at noon in thirty-

i I

!•

330

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Hi '

seven fathoms, a drift to N. N. W. being indicated by
tlie lead line. I got a meridian altitude showing N.
72° 52' for our latitude, so we are proceeding to the
northward, at all events, as well as deepening our water.
That we may continue to do so is my fervent hope, for
the higher the latitude the more satisfaction, and the
deeper the water the greater chance of a speedy break-
ing up of the ice, by reason of movement by wind or
the yet to be discovered current.

A measurement of the thickness of the floe at the
sounding hole gives forty inches ; and as at the last
measurement it gave forty-eight inches, a waste has
occurred to just the extent of eight inches.

Ajjril 2bth, Sunday. — The passage of another week
and the arrival of another Sunday becomes memorable,
because we have progressed nearer to the Pole by nine
miles. During the past week S. E. has been the pre-
vailing wind, and we have correspondingly gone N. W.
That we have thus drifted indicates a loosening of the
ice to the northward and westward, probably in the
neighborhood of the Liakhof (or New Siberia) Islands,
from 74° to 7G°. As the season advances and the
weather grows milder, the ice openings and perhaps
movements ought to be greater to correspond, and we
may be able to extricate ourselves and accomplish some-
thing yet. Our soundings to-day are something ex-
traordinary, — forty-four and one half fathoms (hard
bottom), — being an increase of nine fathoms since
yesterday. We may have struck a deep hole, or we
may be leaving the shallow water in which we have
been drifting all winter, and getting to veritable Arctic
Ocean. A northerly drift being still indicated by the
lead line, we shall be to some extent wiser to-morrow.

At ten A. M. I inspected the ship, finding the berth

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

331

deck nicely clciin, and, satisfactory to say, quite dry.
We are so changing from the torpid appearance we
presented during the winter to the ship-shape and tidy
condition we are generally accustomed to that, were it
not for the leak and the steady pump, pump, we could
soon forget all our past discomforts in planning for the
future. Following inspection, we had divine service in
the cfihin.

April 2Q(h, Monddy. — Onr soundings dropped sud-
denly to thirty-one fathoms (thirteen and one half fath-
oms less than yesterday), and as our position to-day (lat-
itude 72° 5G' N., longitude 179° 16' W.) is only two and
one half miles N. W. of our position of yesterday, we
must assume that we -struck a deep hole.

A bit of excitement occurred this afternoon at 4.30
by the cry of " Bear ! " A young, or at all events small,
bear had come up to about three hundred yards of the
ship, Avhen the dogs gave the alarm, and out tumbled
Chipp, Dunbar, the natives, and the dogs in pursuit.
Ilis bearship left incontinently, and as the snow-drifts
made heavy traveling for bipeds he succeeded in escap-
ing, to our regret, as young bear is line eating.

April 2Sth, Wechiesdaij. — By three p. m. the wind-
mill was in place, and connected with the shifted bilge-
pump in the corner of the fire-room hatch. The sails
made of sheeting having been found to possess too lit-
tle surface, and to sag in too much, had been removed,
and in their places fans made of sheet tin (utilized from
our empty coffee and sugar tins) had been secured
with wire stops. So well did the new rig work, that
at eight p. m. we stopped pumping forward by hand,
opened the starboard llood-gate, and allowed all the
water to come aft. Up to midnight the windmill was
working admirably, enabling us to save a little coal on

:U ^ .a

lii

I*, -.y

332

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNET'lE.

the steam-cutter rig, which is now used for distilling
only. To provide lor light wind, Melville commenced
to-day the construction of a pump of boiler tubes, also
to be worked by the windmill. To determine by ex-
periment which will be the most economical of fuel, —
the Baxter or the steam-cutter's engine, — I directed
Melville to use the Baxter hereafter for distilling and
unavoidable steam pumping.

Chipp has been hard at work of late making fuses and
torpedoes, in anticipation of our needing them for our
future operations. We have plenty of powder for blast-
ing purposes, and Chipp, with his torpedo experience,
has manufactured the necessary weapons. Mr. Dunbar
has earned among us the reputation of making a mile,
according to his reckoning, as near two, judging from
our feelings, as can be. Last fall, upon the occasion of
killing some walruses, he came back for a boat, and as
lie said the distance was about a mile, the doctor, Mel-
ville, and myself started with him, a team of dogs drag-
ging the boat on the sled. We ran the best three miles
1 ever saw, and were pretty well used up before we got
to the end of his mile. To-day, when he started out,
I got him to carry a pedometer hitched to his pocket.
On his return he said he thought he had gone about
three miles in all, but I could see in his face he felt he
wa> saying too much — that he ought to have made it
less. The pedometer read live miles. Rule : Multi[)ly
Mr. Dunbar's estimate by two, and then judge whether
you are game to hold out.

Although I am sure the ice is wasting under the sun,
it wastes far too slowly for me. I am anxious to get on.
To-day our latitude is N. 72° 59' 54" (almost 73°), and
I am hoping that 73° is a barrier which, once passed, we
shall go on with some credit to ourselves and the name

sun.

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

333

the ship bears. The snow is soft, and the walking ex-
tremely bad. Without any warning one Hounders in
up to his knees in rifts between chunks, and the shock
of the slip and the hauling out of one's legs soon dis-
gusts the most zealous walker.

And yet we cannot find any snow fit to make drink-
ing water. Try we ever so carefully, in our choice to
take the newest fallen, to seek the crevices where snow
may have lodged on other snow, escaping i(;e contact,
the result is the same, with this exception, 1 almost be-
lieve, that the newest fallen is the saltest. Using such
snow for drinking or cooking is out of the question.

Temperature begins at 20°, rises to 25° at noon, and
falls to 13.5° at midnight. As soon as the sun sets
(now somewhere about. 10. 20 p. m.) the temperature
changes quickly. As long as the sun is in sight one
can almost see the cinders and ashes settle in the snow.
The black absorbs so much heat that it eats its way
down like magic. Oh, as I have said before, that the
snow and ice were only black !

Ajml oOth, Friday. — The last day of April. Our
total drift, as shown by observations, for the month,
amounts to eighty-four and two tenths miles to and fro.
Actually made good in a straight line forty-six miles to
N. 50° W., — slow progress, and almost disheartening.
Still it is an advance, and that is something.

The sunrise was obscured by fog, but the sun set at
11.23, being enormou.sly enlarged by refraction, and
having an inverted parhelic segment over it very much
smaller than the main disc. This is having daylight with
a vengeance. I could not help feeling for these who
are obliged to support life (and apparently with com-
fort) with much less.

Chipp observed a flock of about twenty ducks (eiders)

,'v

m '

(

(1.1

334

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

flying high and steering west. No doubt they were
bound for some bind in that direction, but though we
strained our eyes and gbisses as the sun got around
there we could see none of it. Removed our cabin
porcbes to-day, letting in much desired light.

May \)it, Saturday. — Sun visible at midnight. The
mouth of May set in with as clear, bright, and beautiful
weather as I ever saw, and even the grim, icy monot-
ony of our surroundings was not enough to prevent us
from enjoying it. A bright sun, absolutely cloudless
sky, and a temperature during the afternoon of from
27.5° to 29.8°, made up together a romantic Arctic
day, neechng only navigable water to make it perfection
itself. Such a thing as remainhig on board ship was
out of the question. Everybody except Danenhower
was out on the ice. Doors were thrown wide open,
fires were let die out, and all hands gave themselves up
to basking in the beauty without. It may be hard to
believe, but really some of us were sunbui'ued to a bril-
Hant red. The dogs actually panted with the heat, and
were disagreeably warm to the touch. Our spare sails,
which have been exposed all winter to the weather on
the poop, were overhauled and found in perfect condi-
tion, having suffered no injury whatever, and were
treated to a sunning ; and generally such an airing of
clothing, bedding, and awnings took place, and such a
pleasurable bustle, that one was led to look with some
expectation to a brighter progress in our movements
than had heretofore characterized them. To make the
day still more eventful, the sun, which had risen at
0.55', remained with his upper limb above the horizon
at midnight, as if loath to quit so pleasant a scene. By
a curious freak of temperature common to us of late,
the thermometer commenced to fall as soon as the sun

UNDER Tllh MIDNIGHT SUN.

335

had i^assed the prinie vertical (about 0.2-') p. m.), and
as th ) day dosed had timiblod to 1.5', — a disagreea-
ble reminder that one May day doe^ not make a sum-
mer any more than one swallow doe.s.

Mr. Dunbar liaving in his wanderings come across
two sets of bear-tracks about three miles from the .ship,
along a small lead in the ice, a trap was sent out and
set for them. They had evidently caught a .seal asleep
and eaten it, for blood was on the ice in various places.

A calculation of the amount of the leak, or, in other
words, the amount of water pumped over board, re-
.sults in placing it at 300 gallons an hour, — a vast im-
provement over February 2()th, when 1,647 gallons per
hour were pumped out of the .ship. The cause of the
decrease can only be conjectured, for we may not know
it for .some time. Either that portion of the forefoot
which we assumed to have been broken has been shoved
back by ice pressure and closes the leak, or our cement
and other material are doing more toward checking the
inward How of the water tiian we had counted on. I
am sufficiently grateful, however, for the saving of fuel
thereby residting, to prevent me from finding fault with
either cause.

May 2d, Sunday. — Since placing the compasses in
the binnacles on Friday, I have carefully watched them
to get a deviation table made up from my magnetic
bearings from the ice. A very curious feature has been
observed in connection with them. As the temperature
falls each night (sometimes getting down to single fig-
ures) the needles are drawn to the right several degrees,
and as the temperature increases in the morning they
gradually go back again, resuming a normal position
when the temperature, generally speaking, is 15° and
over, as the needles of the compasses (Ritchie's liquid)

>ll

33G

THE VOYACK OF THE JEAXXETTIO.

■t

are of coursu not li^^ht or (lelicato enough to indicivto
HC'cular variiitions ; and as no sitcli niovciiient ot" the
ship in azimuth takos place, 1 can only account for it
by the action of the temperature on the mixture of
glycerine and alcohol on which the cards float.

In anticipation of the coming- of warm weather and
the consequent hunting to ensue, a general cleaning and
overhauling of rilles and shot-guns took place on {Satur-
day, some miscellaneous target fii'ing taking place with
good results, as showing skill. Everybody felt satisfied
that with such marksmanship and the trifling assist-
ance of a bear-trap some game must soon be hanging
in the rigging. To-(hiy the trap was visited, but to
the disgust of everybody was imtenanted. Two bears
had visited it, and one had oven trodden on it without
being caught. In setting it the trap had been buried
in the snow, which hardened so much around it as to
make it impossible to close. Hence our disappoint-
ment. However we have not finished eating our hist
capture, and to-day at dinner could well appreciate
that a bear on the table was worth two not in the trap.
At ten A. M. we had general muster, and read the Arti-
cles of War, after which I inspected the ship, finding
everything trim and neat. Our colors were set for the
first time in this part of the world I am certain. At
the conclusion of the inspection divine service was per-
formed.

May od, Monday. — Our first case of eyes damaged
by snow occurred to-day in Mr. Dunbar, The man of
most experience, and generally the greatest care in
such matters, is tlie first to go under. His is not a seri-
ous case, however, and he will be around in a day or
two. His eagerness to try my Winchester led him to
wander around looking for bears more than was pru-
dent.

UNKEIl THE MIDN'UIHT SUN.

O •> T

.JO 7

day or
him to

M(ii/ ifh, 7\i<'S(/ai/. — Our rxpt'i-inict^ on tliis cruiHe
may not only Ik* oI' ii(lviint!i<i,i> to onrsflvcs but it may
Hurvu to iK'coniplisli an iniprovcmont in some articles
of Arctic outlit. On ono occasion when Melville iind I
sat looking; at our stove and won(lerin«i; it' it could not
be made to answer more than one |)uri)ose (for so eco-
nonucal have we become that nothing seems valuable
lor I'uture equipment that cannot do at least two
things), the (juestion came up as to whether a stove
might not be made to distill watei" as well as keep a
room or cnbin warm. Melville promptly said yes, it
could be done, and that even our cabin stove nnght bo
made to distill, with some additional (ittings, a small
quantity ol" water ; but that the necessity of arranging
those fittings, so that the salt or scale might be re-
moved as it accumulated, would involve such a dispro-
portionate amount of gearing for the result gained,
with so much additional consumption of fuel, that we
would be not as well off as with our present distiller,
especially as we have to puh p by steam. Recurring
to the subject to-day I asked him to give me his plan
of such an ap})aratus as would heat and distill with the
greatest economy, for some possible Arctic ship in the
future. 1 am so convinced that he has solved a great
problem and produced an incalculably valuable article
of outlit, that 1 would be almost sulliciently ready to
undertake another Arctic voyage for the express pur-
pose of proving it.

Should we be so fortunate as to return without having

had the scurvy break out among us, I thiidv it will be

because we had piu"e water to drink, for I do not think

that our situation is thus far any less prejudicial to

general health than the Tegethoff's or De Haven's

Expedition, both of which wintered in the pack and
22

•1 i

h \

338

THE VOYAGE OF 'JIIE JEANNETTE.

were afflicted with scii' vy to f. considerable extent.
But inasmuch as the I^ares' Expedition were consum-
ing water which was pure (according to the nitrate of
silver test, as testified to by Dr. Moss), and yet broke
down with scurvy, there may l)e some other cause to
aflect us which we have yet to learn (and avoid, for we
do not want the proof by experience).

It is very hard and jdmost impossible to get men to
understand the importance of this matter (when I say
men I mean the average seaman before the mast). Last
fall Avhen I wps straining every nerve to keep snow
water from being drunk after we found it becoming
impure, and burning coal more precious than diamonds,
to distill with the Baxter boiler, some outrageous things
would occur. Though the men knew that diarrha'Ji
had beer\ caused l)y impure water, and that h would
continue while such water was used, no judgment could
be discerned in some of them. For instance, as the
sup])ly of distilled water was just equal to the demand
for drinking and cooking, it would not be quite cool at
all times, and though a moment's exposure of a tin
pot to the outside air would have cooled it more than
enough, goodness knows, a man would fill his tin cup
hall" full of snow before dipping it in the barrel, not
only making Iiis own potful impure but .-ipoiling more
or less tlie water in the barrel. Of course that was
stopped, the barrel headed up, and a faucet inserted,
and the fireman on duty put in charge of it. Again,
the cook finding the snow water, for cleaning dishes,
etc., ]>leasant enough to the taste, would add much or
little to the tea water as the distilled watd' was more
or less scant. This could be shopped and was stopped.
To liiin the idea of necessary quantity was more impor-
tant than any over-sensitiveness as to (quality. Tliese
merely illustrate the lack of judgment.

r-t,

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

339

) extent.

consuni-
iiitrtite of
et broke

cause to
cl, for we

}t men to
len I say

ist). Last
eep snow
becoming
liamonds,
)us things
(liarrlia^i
, h would
lent could
}e, as the
e demand
te cool at

of a tin
nore than
is tin cup
larrel, not
linu; more

that was

inserted,
. Again,
ig dishes,

much or
was more
! stopped.
)re impor-
y. These

Now the difficulty arises about insuring the wearing
of snow-spectacles. They are inconvenient, and to some
unpleasant, but none the less important and necessary.
Thougli they may not entirely prevent snow-blindness,
they will guard against it longer than an uncovered
eye, and make its effects less painful and lasting. I
see that hmnan judgment will lead the average seamr.n
to prefer certain snow-blindness to a probable frecl.'.n
from it, raid hence I shall issue a stringent order on the
subject.

At four o'clock this afternoon a large bear ]iaid us a
visit, and but for our haste might now be adorning our
rigging. The reporting of a bear sets us all on fire,
and away Ave go. When Ericksen came into the cabin
and said " Bear," out jumped the doctor, Newcomb, and
myself with ritles and sped over the side. The dogs
seeing us n/sli jumped to their feet, and scenting or see-
ing the bear al)out two hundred yards otf made for him.
That was enoudi : he turned and ran. 1 fired at him
(hitting him, I afterwards learned, in the left fore-
shoulder), but on he sped, dogs and all in chase, and
though hotly pursued he gained so much that when at
three nules he came to a water l.i- o one hundred yards
wide, he had time to swim across it, and gain some
hummocks on the other side before Alexey got to the
edge. Here Alexey fired, and says he iiit him, but I'C
went down behind the rough ice and was seen no more.
He says before he fired he saw the blood fiowing from
the bear's left shoulder, and had seen the Ijloody trail
he left behind,

A pleasant report came back from the open water
that . there were "plenty birds," and as we are nnich
interested in that fact from Icve of bird pie as well as
for naturalist's reasons, Mr. Newcomb prepares for a
battue on the morrow.

b : !i

340 TFIK VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

j\f(i>/ ^)th. We(hh'!<(lfit/. — To-(lny is iiHMiiorahk'
showing' our position to be wt'st of llic ISOtli nKM'idi.'in,
an extraordinary tx'cnri'cncc in view oi' the still" N W.
wind and flic indicated drift S. K. hv the lead line.
Either onr ice-lield ninst have aequired sntlicient niove-
nient dnring- the long continnance of S, P], wind to work
to windward wMtli the eliansie. or we are in a N. W. cnr-
rent. 1 do not change the date, foi' in a day or two
we nia\' heixin to uo hack and soon (ind onrsidves east of
that niei'idiaii, necessitating a further change, and so on
hack -Old foith. When, therefore, we are so far in east
longitude as t(» niak(? onr crossing to west longitnde
again a tjui'stion of considerable time. I shalU change
our date. Meanwhile we will go on as befoi-e.

Onr position exactly is in latitude 73' U' 24". longi-
tude 179' 37' 30" E.'. a drift of eight miles N. (13" \v.
having taken place since tl;e 1st. or two miles ;i day
perhaps. Newconib and Alexey went out on a shoot-
ing excursion and bronght liack
three guillemots. Nothing coidd
be found of th«' bear shot yester-
day, and so we are that much out.
Md// <i///. 'r/nir>!(lfij/. — A party
going to the hsid tlwHie miles S. E.
of the shi]) IfMiuil it slowly clos-
ing i.p from ii»*' movement of the
lioe<, and x\\v\ saw sowtw gnille-
nit)ts and the tracks of a fox.

Tests for carbonic acid at ten
p. M. on the berth deck give l.OO
volumes ]ior 1.000. or .lill) per cent. A very gcjod
•showing lor peoj^le living undei oiu' <'ircnmstances.

J/f/// 7///. Fi'iihiij. — The watcr-'^ky is nuich dimin-
ished in extent, and travelers to the open water S. E.
of the ship re])ort it frozen oxer.

Tr,rt Black GuilletTTot.

""4
-I
.1 1

' i h

; !.

■'

I'l !

ifj

!; ;

UNDEIl THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

o4o

May Sth, Sahirday. — The coming and going of one
more day and nothing gained. This khid ol" life is
really becoming monotonous. P]ach day finds our coal
pile diminishing, and no sign yet of \veather which
would make it safe to stop our fires on the berth-deck
and in the cabin. A temperature of 32° would be as
acceptable as possible, although it is the freezing ])oint
of fresh water. This day connnences with a tempera-
ture of minus 3.7'', and though the w'ind blows from
E. S. E. all day, it gets no warmer than plus 12^ wi
midnight. The weather is gloomy, depressing, and dis-
agreeable. Velocities ranging from ten to twenty-three
miles drive the snow from the face of the lloe in clouds,
and other snow falling makes distant objects, say one
hundred yards, invisible. Here and there alongside
the ship a little white lump indicates that there is a
dog beneath it, and even the regular and irregular dog
fights are discontinued until the weather uets clearer
and friend can be distinguished from foe. 1 have in-
tended for some time to dwell upon the peculiariHes of
our dogs, but each time the subject has seemed too
extensive for my daily journal. Why they light, how
they fight, and whom they fight, seem to be purely ab-
stract questions witii them, so long as it is a fight. For
instance, dogs one and two will see dog three in a gootl
position, perhaps enjoying a meat can that has i)een
empty for months and has, of course, no nutrinu'ut.
As if l)y concerted plan one and two will spring on
three, roll him over, and seemingly tear him in jjjcces.
Fortunately the wool is so long and thick that an at-
tacking dog gets his mouth full of hair before his front
teeth reach the fiesh. so no great lamage is done gen-
erally. The vulnei':»?)le places are the ears and the
belly. I have seeiM an attacked dog run, and, lying on

!l i

11 1^

53^. ^'

344

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

h '

l.hk'-'

liis stoiiiiicli, shove liis head into n .snow bank Avitli ini-
pinilty, while his foes were choking over the hair they
tore out ol" liis hack. However, this. is a long digres-
sion. Suddenly dog three will turn on dog two and he
pron\ptiy aitled by dog one, his previous I'oe. By this
time the whole pack has gathered as it' by magic, and
a free and indiscriminate fight occurs, until the advent
of the quartermaster with the whip and a merciless ap-
plication of it breaks up the row.

Tlie\ divide up into little gangs of three or four, and
in these friendly cli(iues they also fight. For days ev-
erytlnng may go on smoothly, when one of the set
does something offensive to his mates, and one of tbem
(or sometimes all of them) administers a thrashing, ; nd
the oifender is sent to Coventry until their feelings calm
down. It is a connuon occurrence to see a dog on the
black list, a quarter of a mile from the ship, all alone
and afraid to come in until his time is up. He then ap-
proaches fawningly, wagging his tail deprecatingly to
'■ Tome reconcnled, and is citluT welcomed with wauuinu;
tails Ol- snarliiiijj teolh. in which latter case he retires to
his isolate<l positimi lor another spell. Another pecul-
iaril3- is, that thougii they niaV no demonstration at
any dog singly, or a team, going away, exce])t the most
doleful howling in concert, they seem to consider it a,
terrible indignity that he or they should presuim^ to
come back. The remainder of the pack scent the ar-
riving one, several hundred yards off, and gather await-
ing him. If a team conies in, a rough-and-tumble
liuiit commences between the harnessed and the free,
which rerpiires two or three men to stop. As soon as
the harness is off they are all smooth and quiet again,
the cliques reassembling and moving off to their usual
haunts, li a single dog, so much the worse luck for

II '

UNDER rilK MIDNIGHT SUX.

345

him. As soon as lio appoars they are all on him. Let
him he never so Avary, and slink around hummocks to
reach the ship unobserved, some one dog sees his head
or his tiiil, uives the signal, and away they go. It is
then a question ot; speed, lor if the single dog but
reaches his usual snnning or stopping-place he is sale ;
for, by some rule always observed, the getting to home
base restores him to the full rights ot" citizenship. The
cautious approach, and the great speed on the last
stretch, are worthy of much higher intelligence than
we usually give to dogs. The care the}' l)estow' on each
other in distress or trouble, arising from disability, has
a marked exhibition in the case of Jack and Snufl'y.
Snuffy had his nose bitten into in a fight at St. Michael's
last summer, and in consequence his head is twice the
natiu'al size, by swelling and diseased bone. Jack is
seemingly Snidfy's brother, and he is devoted to him
beyond much human fraternal affection. lie stays by
Snulfy, cleans him, sees that he is not molested by
other dogs, follows him into enemies' camps, leads him
through in safety, and guards his retreat. Let Snuffy
get a tld-bit, like an old moccasin or a piece of hide,
Jack sees him secure it, stands by him while he chews
it, and if he leaves it, chews it for him until he seeuis
to want it again, when it is promptly surrendered. So
accustomed have the pack become to this sort of thing,
that they permit many liberties with their food which
they would resent with a well dog.

Their cunning is extraordiiiiiry. Going out the other
night at twelve for meteorological observations, aljout
a dozen of them came around me in grejit excitement
about something ov other. Looking around for a cause,
1 oljserved a good-sized dog head first in a barrel at an
ungh', with only his tail and Hanks Mtit'klug out. lie

I ! i.

I \

4
i

346

THE VOYAGE OF THE .TEANNETTE.

^'i(

liiid gone in for some walrus meat at the bottom, and
no (log had driven him out, because his stern view was
not re(;ognizahle as belonging to a bully or not. Anx-
ious to save the meat I went to the barrel and drove
him out, when half of the gang recognizing him as no
great figliter, pitched into him, while the other half
fought among themselves for the entry into the barrel.
For tear of catching a Tartar they had waited for some
oue to solve the conundrum. '* Who is in the barrel?"

3Iay \)ih, Sundai/. — At ten a. m. I inspected the ship.
The berth deck is now dry and couifortable, and in
good order and condition. I think our men really en-
jo}' it ; for, considering the size of the vessel, it is really
cheerful and spacious. Far removed from the officers'
quarters, there is no restraint upon the men's singing,
smoking, and card-playing within prescribed hours, and
they are made to feel at liouie. All the work being
done in the deck-house, and the provisions being ob-
tained from other places, tliere is notliing to interfere
with then' perfect occupation of their own quarters.
The steam-pump auxiliary is in its new place in the
store-room, which, by the way, is about as fully stowed
as an egg, but dry and orderly. The deck-house is one
large work-shop and receptacle for knapsacks, parkies,
and boots, relieving the berth deck of much impedi-
menta. The galley-honse is clean and remarkably tidy,
the berths of the two Chinese being models of neat-
ness. If the two that we have are fair representatives
of their race, I consider them a wonderful nation.

The cabin is of course di'y, neat, and comfortable.
The ward-rooui is dry, but needs a scrubbing about the
deck and paint work, which we are as yet unable to
give it on account of low temperatures, and the danger
of adding to Dauenhower's disability. In him I can

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

347

can

see no change: if his eye seems to improve for ti day
or so, it only precedes a fresh outbreak, whicli makes it
dilHcult to say whether or not it is as bad as it ever
■was. Being allowed by the doctor to be about the
cabin during the day, with one eye covered up entirely,
anil the other protected by a colored goggle, and even
in dry, warm weather, to go on deck under the awning
for a few moments, carefully changing his foot-gear for
rubber boots before going out, and changing back on
coming in, — he Ijecame over-conlident, begun looking
at and trying to distinguish too many things, then went
a step or two outside the awning, in the full sunlight,
and finally delayed changing his foot-gear, and the re-
sult is he is down in his room in the dark again, only
allowed to come up to breakfast and supper blindfolded.
How his case will terminate I cannot say. After in-
spection, divine service was performed in the cabin.

Mill! \Of/i, Momldij. — Another day of perfect monot-
ony, waiting for the mild weather and open water, whit-h
do not come. Strange to say, however, good obsei'va-
tions ])laced the ship four miles W. of where she was on
the Ttli. Either we have been in the mean time further
W. iind have come back again, or else lead-line indica-
tions are valueless. Latitude 73'' U' 49" N., longitude
179' 9' 55" E. If this latitude were only 83° 9' 4!)",
how much better satisfied I should be with our work of
exploration.

J/r/y Wth, Tuesday. — An absolutely uneventful day.
At three a. m. an occasional crack could be heard from
the ice about the shin, but very faint and of no impor-
tance, miless it be a sign of Avasting away. Keally the
sameness and monotony of this hoping and waiting are
wearing upon me. Were we somewhat further N., we
would not expect milder weather or a breakhig up until

' 1

•m

il >

f^ 1

pi:

348

THE VOYA(!E OF THE JEANNETTE.

i'il

1 1

iriiK'li liitrr. l)iit ill our position 1 think 1 am jiustilied
in c'X|)t'('tin<;' a let-up soon.

Maij Villi, W'cdnesddi/. — A cloudy, <ilooniy, miconi-
i'oi'tiihU' ihy. A st'iil was brought in. hut unlortiiniitt'ly
it \va>< of the tee-|j.'ong (?) species, unlit to eiit because
oi' its strouLi' turpentine taste. The o(h)r from it as it
lay upon the ice Avas sulliciently indicative ol its cliMr-
aeter. I keep his skull. Mr. Dunbar and Alexey each
shot a guillenu)t with a rille, almost tearing the birds
in pieces. As an evidence oi" good shooting, it was a
decided success. And with this small record of a day's
doings I must be content.

31(1// \ijfh, Th((r,s(lai/. — The usual monotony of our
daily existence was pleasantly broken in upon. Ninde-
mann and Alexey while out to-day shot a seal and two
guillemots, which they brought in, Nindemann drag-
ging the seal behind him, — a laborious task, which he
said had lasted for about seven miles. Mr. Dunbar took
the entrails of the seal caught yesterday, and went out
to set a bear-trap in the afternoon. At U.30 r. m.,
Ericksen having the deck, Chipp went out to have a
look around before turning in, and from the roof of tlie
deck-house he saw, two hvnidred yards on our starboard
how, a larii-e bear sitting on a hummock gazinu; at the
ship. In a moment Chipp and Newcomb were on the
house top with their rilles. Chipp lired lirst, and thinks
he hit the bear ; Newcomb fired next and hit, and then
Chipp lired again, hitting this time without doubt, for
down he went. The dogs qinckly gathered around him,
and Mr. Bruin uot on his feet and made good traveling
over tremendously bad ice and snow-drifts, although he
was bleeding freely. The doctor, Chipp, and myself
followed Newcomb in the pursuit, and by the time the
bear got one quarter of a mile from the ship he halted,

UNDKK THE .MIDNIGHT SUN.

showed figlit to the dogs wlio stuck to lihn, giving New-
coiiil) a chiiiico to put another bullet in liini, tumbling
him over this time for good, and we hauled him into
the ship. He was eight feet eight inches in length ovei-
all, and five feet ten inches in girth, and wi'ighed about
eight hun(h'ed pounds, rather old, but fat and tender,
and a welcome addition to our larder. The head and
skin were given to Mr. Newcomb, at his recpiest, as tvo-
phies. The traveling, as I said before, was tremen-
dously bad. The surface of the ice-held around us from
a distance of two hunch-ed yards outward is all broken
and hove up, the up-ended pieces of lloel)ei-gs standing
lit all angles and in all positions. The small amount
of snow which has fallen during the winter has been
swept in nuisse.s of drift in all nooks and crannies and
spaces, making a nu)st uneven surface. Here and there
the crust has hardened enough to present an a})pear-
ance of strength. One trusts himself on it, and inune-
diately sinks to liis waist. To get out is difficidt. To
get one leg out, the weight of the body nuist be brought
on the hands, and they in turn sink in the snow, and the
leverage is lost. Flounder, flounder, until by chance
one foot strikes a piece of ice underneath, which gives
support while the work of extrication is completed, fol-
lowed very probably by another sinking, and so on (id
nauseam. Frequently one comes to a more dangerous
place between two floe-piece edges, — for instance, an
end with a snow pit between, into w Inch he sinks unex-
pectedly to his breast, and has almost literally to claw
himself out with his nails. In fine, even the dogs floun-
der and struggle in vain, and sonu' of them have to be
helped out by num. Only the bears seem to have a
knowledge of these pitfalls, and they profit by it.

I can uow very well understand the enormous dilH-

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WEBSTiR, N.Y. USSO

(716) 873-4S03

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350

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

culties of <^aptain Markham in his struggle northward
Irorn tlie Alert's winter-quarters, and I cheerfully admit
the correctness of his cousin's remark, that no sledging
could accomplish anything on the rough ice I Avould en-
counter north of Behring Strait. If anything should
force us to abandon our ship, 1 am satisfied that we
should be unable to drag enough provisions to enable
us to reach Siberia ; and that, unless aided by the grow-
ing improvement in the season we could kill euough to
eat as we journeyed, our only salvation would be in
couiing to open water early in the distance, as did Wey-
precht's party from the Tegetthof.

By my observations to-day, I locate our position in
latitude 73' 7' 40" N., longitude 178° 57' 45" E., — a
drift since yesterday of a mile and a half W. being
shown. Whatever theory may have been advanced as
to currents in this part of the Arctic Ocean, 1 think our
drift is demonstrating that they are the local creation
of the wind for the time being. As our drift in general
resulting direction has been N. W. since our iirst be-
setment, so is it a fact that the greater amount of wind
has been from the S. E., — our short and irregular side
drift east and west and occasionally back to south beiug
due to correspondingly short and irregular winds from
N. W. or E. A glance at my wind record will make
that clear.

As yet no land. Our log is headed, " Beset in the
pack to the northward and westward of Herald Island,"
because Herald Island is the most northerly land we
have seen ; but Herald Island is now S., 41° E., 142
miles distant, and is rather remote to date from. A
flock of birds flew across the bows from E. to W. this
morning, as if indicating a land in that direction, but
we can as yet see nothing of it.

boiiii^

from

make

in the
lanrl,"
111(1 we
., 142
)m. A
W. this
on, but

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN-

SSI

May 14th, Friday. — It never rains but it pours —
l)ears. Thin morning, at four, one approached tiie t<hip
from astern, E. N. E., but before he got within good
raiiu:e the do<j;s saw him and made a rush at him. Mr.
CoUins started in pursuit with a revolver, but it was no
even chase. A bear seems able to go when the travel-
ing will use up a man. The temptation to follow in
this case was strong, for at about every hundred yards
the dogs would bring the bear to for a moment or two
and tallow Mr. Collins to get almost within revolver
range. In this manner he went a mile and a half, and
then relinquished the chase to Alexey and his dogs.
These followed several miles, but Mr. Bruin was not
overtaken.

Later on, Chipp saw another one on our port bow.
He fired and hit the bear, for over he went ; but tak-
ing to the rough ice Bruin got away, although chased.
Ericksen and Bartlett followed on his trail, and after a
tramp of seven miles lost him at some young ice. It is
too bad that these animals have so much life, for those
that are wounded probably die at some later time from
the wound, and of course are lost to us. It seems neces-
sary to fill a bear so full of lead that he cannot carry it
to induce him to give up the ghost near the ship.

The new crank shaft and centre bearing of the wind-
mill being finished the mill was again mounted, and at-
tached to the shifted bilge-pump in the corner of the
fire-room hatch. The wind was hardly strong enough
to work the pump steadily, but still it did some good
service. The engineer's force immediately commenced
the construction of a small pump of s])are boiler tubes,
which will be run by the windmill in light weather.
The men having completed digging out the trench
afresh were occupied iu variouo works about the ship,

352

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

particularly in cleaning and npreading to dry seal skins,
in readiness for soles and moccasins. We must com-
mence to provide lor our necessities of next winter in
that direction, for the amount of wear and tear on our
moccasins has been very great during the past winter.

M<iy loth, Saiurdai/. — Again a bear. Mr. Dunbar
went out this morning to exauiine the bear-traps, and
saw indications of their having been visited, for all the
bait was gone, and the trap turned over without having
been sprung. He and Alexey and Aneguin followed
on the track, and after a long tramp saw two. One
got out of range too quickly for a shot, but the other
was keeled over and secured. Strange to say, it took
seven bullets to do the work, a sort of running liglit
and firing being kept up for two hundred yards or
more. At the end of live shots the bear again stag-
gered to his feet and was making off, when two more
bullets finished the all'ray. The prize was a she-bear,
very tliin — as Mr. Dunbar says, '* all spars" (t. e. all
legs and neck), having evidently been nursing a cub
for some time, or having just weaned one. /cry prob-
ably it was the full-grown cub that got out of range,
leaving his mother to face the music. Upon being
brought in and cut up, it was found that four of the
seven shots fired had penetrated vital parts, that is to
say, had injured such parts as would infallibly have
caused death within an hour, and yet the bear was
ready to get away to rough ice, and thus escape.

In the afternoon the doctor and I went out with Mr.
Dunbar with a dog team to bring in the game, and I
thus had a fine chance of '• seeing the country." Going
out 8. E. a mile and a half we came to what had been
an opening, but was now covered over with young ice.
Following this to N. E. for a mile or no, we cume to its

UNDEIt THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

353

011(1, and tluMi striking to N. W. had some very heavy
traveling until we struck a long load of young ice, ex-
tending N. E. about three miles, whore it ended at very
old and very heavy ice. Leaving this we doubled back
S. W. to the ship. One has need only to make such
an excursion to be satisfied oi" the still greater perils
we have escaped than those which we have endured.
Where some of these floe edges have met and fought,
rearing themselves fifteen and twenty feet in the air,
no ship could survive.

Excellent observations to-day place us in latitude
73" 13' 3" N., longitude 178° 52' 45' E., showing a drift
since yesterday of three and three quarter miles to N.
7' W. Besides being satisfactory as indicating progress
of some kind, it is worthy of note as being the highest
latitude yet attained on this side of the Arctic Ocean
(that is on the sea), Collinson's furthest being, I be-
lieve, 73° 11'. And yet no land.

Sounded at noon in twentv-nine fathoms. Muddv
bottom, a rapid drift to N. being indicated by the lead
line. This is caused no doubt by a coming southerly
gale, for the wind to-day is 8. E., with velocities from
eight to eleven miles, and there seems to be a gen-
erally unsettled look to the weather, whicii promises
wind. The ice seems not only to exert a deadening ef-
fect on winds when they reach us, but actually to retard
their advance. I venture to say we have never had
the severity of a storm within the pack that has ))re-
vailed on its borders. Our highest anemometer veloc-
ity has been only forty miles, and it seems almost in-
credible that one should pass a winter in the Arctic
Ocean with nothing greater.

Mail 10^/i, SiiiKlay. — And again a bear. Mr. Dun-
bar went out with the natives this afternoon to vist
•J3

ll I

354

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

' I

the traps, and finding nothing therein conchided to go
in search of some game or other. After some httle
wandering he espied a bear some distance ott", advanc-
ing toward him. Getting down behind some rough
ice, Mr. Dunbar and Aneguin held tiie dogs down and
awaited results. After some backing and iilling, the
bear concluded to advance in their direction, which he
did for some distance before turning oil", when the dogs
were let go, and brought him to bay until Mr. Dunbar
got a bullet into him. Then began a time. The bear
made for the young ice and open water, and though
shot again, managed to jump in, and went under. Ho
swam for some distance under water, his track being
indicated above him by the rippling; but he was obliged
to come up for air, when Dunbar got a bullet into his
head, which, after knocking out a big tooth, lodged in
the brain and settled the case. To get the prize was
now in order. Dunbar and Aneguin could not pull the
carcass out of the water, though they had a line fast to
it for that purpose. So leaving Aneguin to hold the
bear, which required all his strength, Dunbar chased
around luitil he came across other hunting parties,
whose men he pressed for service, and whose dogs,
aided by his own, brought in the game to the ship.
Net result, five hundred pounds additional fresh meat;
head and skin going to captor. Another male speci-
men, inclined to be '' all spars," like the fe:r<ale of
yesterday. Bears are becoming so common now that
we feel that we want some ducks by way of a change.
To-day all the pumping was done by the windmill.
A light easterly breeze almost died out in veering to S.
E. at four a. m., but it soon sprang up again, still veer-
ing to S. S. E. and S., becoming gradually quite fresh,
until at midnight it was blowing at a velocity of nine-

UNDER THE MIDNKiHT SUN.

355

teen mileH an hour, witli some very hard squalls. The
Avindniill could not hej^in to lind enough work to do,
the bilge being kept dry. As we have beer, somewhat
annoyed with a smell from the bilge tor the past few
days, we clean bilges in a rough manner to-day, by
opening the sea cocks and letting in additional water,
stirring up the mass and scrubbing with brooms, the
windmill pumping out the water as readily as we could
wish. As there has been a steady inlet of water and
clear flow since January 19th, one would imagine that
our bilges were clean, and, as far as clean, bright wood
can indicate, they are. Unless there is some chemical
decomposition of the sea water, or some decaying ani-
malcule, I am unable to assign the cause for this odor
to our bilges, and even if it is from one of the two
cause.s above mentioned, I am unable to .say from
which one.

At ten A. M. 1 inspected the ship. We have now
three on the sick list, — Danenhower. as usual, Sweet-
man, with neuralgia, and Ah Sam, the cook, with a
kind of intermittent fever. Sweetman has had a bad
tooth for some time, and the doctor has been unabU> to
extract it because of its being, ap])arently, interlaced at
the roots; and I am inclined to think the neuralgia is
the result of that trouble. Ah Sam's fever may have
arisen from a cold. These are two valuable men. and
their sickness excites our warmest sympathy and con-
sideration. The carpenter work may stand still, but
the cooking must go on. In this emergency the stew-
ard calmly does his own work and the cook's too, just
as naturally as, when the steward was sick, the cook
performed both functions. This is another cause of my
profound admiration for this race. I verily believe
that either or both of them would undertake any duty,

356

THE VOY.UiK OF IIIE JEANXKTTE.

i f

and master its details in so sliort a period that their
ignorance would not have time to become a})piirent.

To satisfactorily account for the small increase over
last week's consumj)ti{)n of coal, 2,1)10 pounds, last
week's consumption being 2,050, 1 may here mention
that shavings, "plinters, and small pieces of wood are
beginning to come down to the bunker door with the
coal, and are consequently shoveled into the buckets
as fuel. There is alst) much line dust which y-oes to
swell the weight. As it all burns, however, it is con-
sidered as so much conl, and so weighed and served out.
Melville's reasoning is, that nothing is lost by such an
operation, because, he says, '• We know that all that is
not expended is in the bnnkers, which is a good place."
1 iim more certain that wo have more coal in the \n\n-
kers to-day than the boo'.;? call for, than 1 am suspicious
of our running short.

Mo(/ 17(h, Mondaij. — One more day come and gone,
like many of its predecessors, with nothing to vary the
monotony of onr lives. We are still drifting north, but
we see no land ; and though we have had occasionally
a water-sky to the northward, it seems to go before us
as we advance, and we come td no result. Low tem-
peratures and an imbrokon ice-view do not seem to in-
dicate a speedy liberation, but there is always comfort
in the reflection that '' we know not vhat a day may
bring forth." I find patience to be an admirable qual-
ity under these circumstances, but 1 am afraid that
patience long drawn out in these regions generates
dullness. If we only had something to do that would
bo advancing the interests of the expedition, there
would be some excitement in the life. Ilcurly meteor-
ological observations are taken, it is true, and the ship's
position daily obtained by sights, and tlien we have to

-SSEESr

UNDEU THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

357

stop. Magnetic observations of any value are im^yos-
sihle, beiuiuse of our ever-changing positions. Rough
ol)SL'rvations for the variations and dip are obtained,
but they will serve only for convenient approximate
reference, and will have no exact sciontific importance.
The constant change of position prevents any correct
pendulum experiments from being made. No astro-
nomical observations, except determinations of latitude
and lony-itude, with sextant and artilicial horizon, have
been possible, because tlui erection of the observatoi-y
and the mounting of the instruments on the ice, in our
situation, would have exposed them to loss should a
break-up occur. Soundings are made daily, and speci-
mens of the bottom obtained and preserved for future
reference. Temperatures of the surface water are re-
corded every second day at the sounding hole, and that
exhausts hydrography for us. At this temperature it
is not practicable to add water cups and sea thermome-
ters to our lead line, for it ices up so fast, and breaks so
readily when frozen, that we might lose cups and ther-
mometers. Natural History is well looked out for.
Any animal or bird that comes near the ship does so at
the peril of its life.

So far, therefore, as is possible, we do all that we can.
People who have, like ourselves, been caught in the
pack have been able to do no more, and in some in-
stances not so nuicli.

At two A. M., in a sudden squall, one of the wire stays
preventing the fans of the windmill from spreading
out parted, and the fans spreading out came against
the tripod, bang, bang, breaking two of them short otf
at the hub. The stay of the other two held on. and
with the wind blowing as it did, these two did all the
pumping, as if nothing had happened. Fortunately the
damage can be repaired without much trouble.

•'•-■,;««, ^ >% wi-a^ «-%

358

THE VOYAGE OF THE .TEAXNETTE.

The carpenters have been engaged in making long
runners tor the keels of our large boats, in case we
have to drag tliein over the ice in any mishap, while
work still progresses on the sniidl boiler tube-})umi).

Mail ISf/i, TiU'xday. — 1 went out this atternoon ac-
companied by Melville and Dunbar with a dog team,
and striking the young ice aljoiit two miles N. K of the
shij), followed it to the westward as it ran for some three
miles. I could have gone further, and would have done
•so but for my desire to get back in time for my sights
at 5.80. As a specimen of Arctic scenery, the ice we
met was very line. The young ice covered an opening
which was about two hundred yards in width, and in
places live hundred yards. Towards the centre and
along it ran a crack here and there, widening to a foot.
Occasionally pools and lanes were met, the rippling of
the water bei'ig a sight pleasing to the eyes after our
lontr look at its frozen condition. On each side of this
long avenue the pack of old ice stood piled up in ir-
regular masses twenty iind thirty feet in height, where
great pressures had occurred. (A month ago there was
no opening.) The thickest single floeberg I saw was
not more than eight feet — other pieces twelve and
fifteen feet in thickness, showing, upon examination,
lines of strata where one had overridden the other. To
the southward of the avenue, beyond the wall of ruins
lining its edge, we could see a long plain several miles
in extent, seemingly smooth ice, but as Mr. Dunbar had
previously attempted to get to the ship by crossing it,
he knew that it abounded in traps and ])itfalls, w hero
one would unexpectedly Hounder and sink to his arm-
pits. To tlie northward the ice was of the same hilly
and broken character as the wall, and I am convinced
that a sled could no more be dragged any considerable

UNDKI! TMK MIDNIGHT SUX.

359

distance in tliiit direction (or, in fact, upon mature de-
lilx'ration, in any direction), than it could l)e dra«i;ged
across the house-tops of New York in an attempt to ^^o
to Harlem from the Battery. Whether these reflec-
tions are goinj; on in the minds of others 1 do not know,
for in any case they are not expressed, or any indica-
tion given of their bein^- entertained. All our discus-
sions, or rather conversations, for we do not discuss,
include the .ship as a prime factor in reducing any
Arctic ecpiation to its simplest form. Our chief dilli-
culty of reduction lies in the fact that there are so
many unknown quantities, PiXcellent observations to-
day place the ship 73° 28' 19" N., and longitude 178'
or 45" E., showing a drift of 2i miles N. 10' K. This
is curious, because we have had an almost steady south-
erly wind during the preceding twenty-four hours; with
easting in any change from true S., in con.sequence, we
should have gone to the northward and westward, in-«
stead of to the northward and eastward. It may be
that our field in passing along some heavier field (or,
perhaps, land) has been shunted oil' by the resistance
offered. Theory as to our movement is long since
abandoned in my mind, giving way to facts based on
experience. Theory may assert how we ought to drift,
but our position from day to day shows how we do
drift, and I accept the situation.

May 2Qth, Thursdai/. — Oh for warm weather ! Only
sixty tons of coal left, and the sunmier work yet to be
done, with reference to next winter's warming, and
pumping, and our cooking going on all the time. To
put out all fires with the present low temperature is
only to invite cold and sickness. To have come so far
and accomplished nothing is very trying. If our ship
were tight, all would be easier planned. But with an

(

Hf- .)l.,^'^-V-="- ■-••rK ,. -, .fc-.*^♦•

nno

TIIK VOYAGE OF TMK JKANNETTE.

1 1

injiinMl sliip I sIimII liavo to ho rarofiil how 1 handle
her k'st I JL'opanli/c all hands. Somethinju^ must he
dono. for we oannot n'st oontont with a hiank score ;
and with (Jod's y-raci' 1 will try to make some record to
which i can look hack with at least no regret or niorti-
(Ication. it is terrihle to me to contemplate that the
.Teamiette has traveled so manv thousand miles under
my connnand only to overwhelm me with confusion at
the end. How can I meet her godmother with such a
meagre description of her doings !

The hright weather we are having is very cheering,
An uninterrupted suidight the whole twenty-four hours
is a great treat, and would he fully apiu'eciated if we
coulil only avail ourselves of it in carrying the ship fur-
ther \. in o})en water. Every day parties are out on
the hunt, and 1 find that there is more or less complaint
al)out soreness of the oyey. My stringent order al)out
wearing snow-glasses whenever more than two hundred
yards fi'om the sliii) seems to he faithfully oheved. and
1 have no douht that their use, though not an infallihle
way of avoiding snow hlindness, will nevertheless so
mitigate the severity of the complaint as to prevent any
one heing laid up.

Our two invalids, Sweetman and Ah Sam, are hack
on duty again. By doing all the carpenter work in the
deck-house, protected from exposure, I think Sweetman
will not again he trouhled with neuralgia. Ah Sam's
tHJUiplaint (^intermittent fever) is an old friend of his, for
it a|)pears that he was afflicted with it in China.

Mdi/ 2lsf, Fridfii/. — Another bear. Mr. Dunbar and
the two natives started ott" this morning on their regu-
lar visit to the traps, and finding nothing in them went
on a cruise. When about five miles northward from
the ship they sighted Bruin, and set the dogs on him to

UNDER TIIK MIDXHIIIT SUN.

361

jack

the

mail

ani's

lor

and

L'OgU-

hoM liim at hay. Gottinjj: within ran^c they delivered
a vollev, all three hullets hittin<i" and tunil)linu' the hear
over. Jiiinpinj^ to his I'eet again he singled out a dog,
and, hlceding as ho was, eharge<l him fiei-cely ; hut Dun-
har and Alexey again (lied wA linished him. The vic-
tors then hrought in lis r.kin and liead attached. J lav-
ing heard mo say some days ago that I woidd like a
nice head and skin lor Mr. Bennett, Mr. Dunhar gener-
onsly presented mo his trojjhy tor that purpose, and
immediately commenced cleaning and ])reparing it. I
design this, the most l)eautil'ul head and skin we li;i\o
yet got, as a present for Mr. Bennett (if it pre- s ao
ceptalde to hini^ from Mr. Dunhar.

The windiii.ii, heing again in repa'r, goes to work .nd
does vV the pumping.

Took down our quarter deck awning to-day, letting
in a tlood of sunlight to the cahin and 1113' room that
was as pretty as a picture. At midnight a largi' Hock
of fowl, prohahly wild geese. Hying from S. E. to N. W.,
crossed the stern of the ship within sight but not within

range.

^f||^/ 22(f, Saturdai/. — This morning Melville and
myself, accompanied hy Aneguin, took a team of eigh-
teen dogs and went out to bring in the bear killed yes-
terday. Upon reaching the young ice and proceeding
along it for a mile, we found it had opened so much as
to make us take to the rough ice for about a quarter of
a mile to avoid it. Reaching the bear, we soon had
him loaded on the sled and started back. So thin was
the young ice, that the weight (42o pounds) of the
cleaned and dressed carcass added to our weights caused
the whole siu'face to vibrate more than 01. .^e. and finally
it broke under us. We had such speed on at the time
that only the rear end of the sled went through, so we

. U

302

THE VOYAGK OF THE JEA^'XETTE,

;'! i

esoapod a ducking and the probable loss of the meat.
KeachintJ!; the place in the rough ice where we had to
turn off, we had a terrible time in store for us. With
oidy the weight of the dead bear on the sled, the
combined work of three men and eighteen dogs con-
sumed an hour in getting over that (juarter mile. The
dogs pulled willingly enough, for they were homeward
bound (and I notice that a difference of one hundred
per cent, depends on that fact), and resented the delay
by howling and surging at the harness until 1 thought
the drag-rope would part. One minute the sled would
be on one side of an uplifted tloe piece and the dogs
on the other, with a sharp ridgo l)etween. When by
sheer strength we had pushed it up and over, it would
plunge down the other side and stick in a hole heels up.
Then we had to diii; it out with our hands, and jj-ive it
another start ; then it would fall, one ruimer in a crack,
and so on. Repeat these things in all shapes and vari-
eties and they will give a faint idea. SulHce it to say,
that at the end of the hour when we reached smooth
ice again we were streaming with perspiration and al-
most exhausted.

^[(n| 2'.uL Sinuh/j/. — Another week has come and
gone, and we are still held fast in our icy bed. Some-
where about this time last year it was that Captain Bai-
lev. in the Rush, was blown throu!2:li Behrini;' Strait in a
southeaster, and saw no ice in any direction within his
horizon. We are havinu; the southeaster ai-'ain this
year, but we can see no water in any direction within
our horizon. The wind seems to howl viciouslv throui'h
our riuiA'inu:. althou<''h it <:;ets no iijreater velocity than
twenty-one miles an hour at any time during the day,
and our lead line shows a rapid drift to N. W. through
twentv-seven fathoms of water.

c meat.
^ had to
, With

H
C
30

z
en

1
c

I '

, i

■I

ii w

UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

Inspected the ship at ten a. m., and then read divhie
service in the cabin. Otherwise the day passed without
any eventful occurrence. While the wind blows so
fresh, and to prevent future accident, two of the wings
of the windmill have been removed, and we find that
all the pumping is easily done by the two remaining.
While it was undei'going repairs, the tin sails were so
arranged as to be removable at will, and stay bands of
Hat iron were substituted for the wire rods. We have
now, therefore, a more perfect and at the same time
more durable machine.

3Iaij 2ith. Mondai/. — A disagreeable discovery was
made to-day, which will be more or less serious when
■we have ascertained a cause. Three little streams of
water were found running into the shaft alley on the
starboard side, just forward of where the line of the
mizzen-mast would be if prolonged. The three streams
if united woidd form a column three quarters of an inch
in diameter. As no pressure has been experienced since
January 19th, the date of our mishap, it is diflicult to
believe that it is caused by a leak, and it is rather too
much water to be accounted for by the supposition that
the accunudations of ice among the frames have com-
menced to melt. We shall have to await further devel-
opments before coming to a conclusion, and meanwhile
it is one more added to my many cares and anxieties.

Observations to-day place us in latitude N. 73" 49'
47", longitude E. 177^ 40', a drift of nine and a half
miles N. bo' W. since yesterday. We are beginning to
deepen our water also, getting thirty fathoms to-day.
1 am somewhat in hopes that we may eventually drift
past this shallow part of the ocean, and reach a depth
of water which will permit a breaking-up of the ice,
and insure our liberation in time to accomplish some-
thing this season.

800

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

I I

i!i

Mr. Dunbar went out to-day to the young ice, which
he found had opened so as to leave a channel one hun-
dred yards in width. Coining back over the heavy
road where we bad such a hard time with tbe sled on
Saturday, he, by great good luck, found my meerschaum
pipe whicli 1 had lost in my struggles, and only missed
when it was too late to look for it. The length of time
I have had the pipe, the reputation which it enjoys of
being the " sweetest pipe in the navy," and it being a
present, made its loss an afUiction, and my sentiments
of gratitude to Mr. Dunbar are of the liveliest kind.

May "loth, Ti'iesday. — Careful observation of the
leak, or whatever it is, mentioned yesterday, shows no
change. The same amount of water Hows, and as mys-
teriously as to its cause as ever. We have win<l enough
to drive the windmill all day, and therefore have no
diiliculty in getting rid of the water. I think, how-
ever, the southeaster ha'-' blown itself out.

To-day's log is headed, "• One hundred and ninety
miles N. W. of Herald Island." These gradual additions
of a few miles each day have gone to make up quite
a distance. Since the 1st of this month we have gone
roughly ninety miles to the N. W., due unmistakably
to the prevalence of S. W. winds, but nevertheless
worthy of remark, as indicating nearly as much advance
in less than a month as we accomplished during eight
months previously. From this I augur good results, for
since our advance was prevented during the winter, be-
cause at that time the massing and cementing together
of ice brought everytbing to a position of rest, so also
is our progress now beginning at a time when the in-
creasing temperature will naturally bring about rup-
tures and disintegration.

Alexey shot and killed a young bear at the same

UNDJ:if THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

which

! hun-

lieavy

[lid oil

;hamn

nissed

f time

oys of

eing a

inients

iud.

ji the

)ws no

.s mys-

}nough

ave no

, how-
ninety

Iditions

p quite
e gone
akably
'theless
vance
eight
jlts, loi-
ter, be-
)t>ether
so also
the in-
it rup-

e same

place (about live miles from the ship) at which our last
one was killed. This is the (irst young bear that wr
have had, and we shall no doubt find his tender tii'sh
quite a treat. The circumstances of the capture are
curious. Alexey had taken out the liver of the last
bear upon its capture and left it on the ice. The young
bear had taken it olf to some rough ice, and while hold-
ing it in his fore ])aws had fallen asleep, in which condi-
tion he was found and fell a prey to Alexey's ritle.

Mai/ 2ijfh, Wcchieadat/. — A subsidence of the winds
to light airs and ealms. The eflect, however, has been
so good that 1 could almost wish for a continuance of
the wind ; for since the noon of the 21st it has drifted us
forty-two miles to N. W. (roughly). It had another ef-
fect. It has blown so much snow across the face of the
floes as to cut them like a sand-blast, and has permitted
the direct action of the sun on the surface, so that in
the afternoon there are sitj;ns of thawing and wastiim".
All black substances, like ashes and refu.se, sink rapidly
into the ice, and are now an appreciable distance below
the surface ; and the white and black bulb thermome-
ters on the port side of the ship show respectively to-
day 70'' and 72\

J/o/y 27 fh, llinrsdaij. — The boiler tube-pump is com-
pleted and in place, and it works to a charm. We have
now moans of pumping the ship by the windmill in all
sorts of winds ^''-or.i four to ten miles, by connecting
the boiler tube-pump ; from ten to fifteen miles, by con-
necting the shifted bilge-pump ; and above (ifteen miles
with the same pump, reducing the sail surface. The
whole subject reflects great credit on Melville, who
designed, and Sweetman and Lee, who constructed, re-
spectively, the wooden and iron parts. Our •• windmill
pumping apparatus" is worthy of being handed down
to posterity.

368

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXET'IE.

The Baxter boiler is now used exclusively for distil-
ling. As the temperature of the air now is at such
comfortable heights, more heat is radiated in the en-
gine-room than is needed to make the man on watch
comfortable, and Melville proposes to have the coil for-
ward on the berth deck to heat that deck instead of
using a stove. The idea is an excellent one, and it only
remains to be seen whetlier we can put it into practical
execution. So anxious are we becoming on the ques-
tion of fuel, that we commenced yesterday going with-
out a lire in the cabin and berth deck from nine a. m.
to five p. M., and we find that we are not so very un-
comfortable. The heat remains in the cabin for several
hours after the fire goes out, keeping up a temperature
above 40'', and as we are always out knocking around
on deck, or on the ice, Avhere the temperature is pleas-
ant enough in the middle of the day, we find we can
very well dispense with fire until supper time.

The amount of water leaking into the shaft alley
seems to have diminished, and I am more inclined to
think that it (the leak) was only the melting of the ice
accumulations among the frames.

JIai/ 2Sth, Frlddt/. — An imeventful day. We are
at a stand-still, and must wait for the development of
some strong wind to shove us along again.

3I((i/ 29th, Saturday. — One more day nearer the end
of May, and I hope one day nearer the end of oin* im-
prisonment. A gloomy and dull day makes one moody
and dispirited under these circumstances. If our lati-
tude were only 84° instead of 74", I don't think any-
body would mind the weather, but we make a very
poor showing for one season's work. However, the
darkest hour is just before the dawn, and who knows
how bright our dawn may be when it comes. In the

UXltEK TlIK .MlDNKiHT SUN.

369

hope that we might bring her further up by the head
•when the ice releases the ship and permits her to float,
the bower chains were unbent to-day and stowed in the
lockers.

May SOth, Srinday. — By observation to-day I find
we are in latitude N. 74" o' 27". longitude 177" E.,
showing a drift since the !2(Stli oi three miles to N. 1 1°
E. We have evidently gotten under way again, though
for some reason we are prevented from going to the
westward, perhaps by a heavy barrier of ice, against
which our field is slowly grinding along. 1 have had
an idea that our drift of late may be explained in some
such manner ; our field turning on a pivot as it ad-
vances, and eventually bringing us to its highest point,
will throw us ofT to the eastward. The northwesting
having been accomplished we are now doing our north-
ing, and then going to N. E. will eventually be carried
along E. by the current which sets E. through the
Archipelago N. of the American Continent. Time will
show the fallacy or the truth of this supposition ; but
meanwhile it allbrds a subject for contemplation.

The usual Sunday inspection and divine service.
The high temperature being promising, I have directed
that during the coming week the deck-house be taken
down, the steam -cutter restowed, and the sleds dis-
mounted. Our new arrangements for summer will be
mentioned later on.

A very gratifying reduction in tlie coal expenditure
has resulted from our doing partially without fire.

May ol.s/, Monday. — The last day of spring, and
then we shall have summer before us. Let us hope
that with spring may end all trials and tribulations, and
that we shall now start forward to the accomplishment
of some purpose. Our observations to-day are encour-

370

THE VOYAGK OF TIIK .TEANNETTE.

aging, for we are I'oiir miles north of yesterday, show-
ing a tendency to go east a little, while going north
more. The carpenters finished the keel runners for the
hoats. and Lee made bolts for them for securing.

After all we have no reason to complain of our
progress during the past month. Oiu' total drift has
amounted to one hundred miles, and we have made
good eighty-two miles to N. 88" "W. Our average
temperature has been 1(S.40''. and though we have had
it as low as mi)uis 8.5 , we have on the other hand had
it as high as 35\

■;5

CHAPTER IX.

A FROZEN SUMMEIt.

June — Auyusf. 1880.

Wliich Way <lnes the Ice; go? — Appoaraiicc of Insanity. — A l-'all of
Haiii. — Danenhower's Case. — Had Walking. — ^rosijiiitoes. — A
Day's Record. — Lanes of Water. — Tiie First I'unisiinu iit. —
Stoppage of the Leak. — JMelting of the Surrounding Ice. — Tiio
Siiip in an Ishmd of Ice. — Thickness of Ice. — I'unishnient of

Dogs. — Irksonicness of Confinement Accident to Alexey. —

Tiie Ileiglit of Summer and the Deptii of Discouragement. — Tiie
Resolution of tlie Company. — Kog and its Effect on Ice. — Specu-
lations (in Arctic Ice. — Studies of Sea- Water Ice. — Tests applied.
— Sudden Encounter with a Bear. — Getting at tlie Propeller. —
A I'arty of Bears. — Crimson Snow. — A Hopeless Outlook.

JuneIs^, Tuesday. — The first flay of summer — and
a gloomy nnd disagreeable one at tliat. Occasional
thick fog prevailed, and a frequent fall of ligiit snow
added to the general cheerfulness I Sounded at iu)on
in thirty-three and one half fathoms, muddy bottom
of course, and the lead line showed a drift to X. N. W.
Connuenced hauling the dredge again, obtaining this
time a few shells and shrimps.

June 2d, Wedne.sday. — A lovely summer day ! A
gale of wind and a snow-storm. Tliis gale must have
been severe on the edge of the Hoe, wherever it may
be, for as the ice exerts a deadening efiect on the wind,
we did not have, of course, the full weight of it. The
snow was driven in clouds almost horizontally. It was,

ik'

' I

}"■

f-l,

372

THE VOYAOK OF THE JEANNETIE.

however, very soft and mushy, inehing iihnost as soon
as it fell, so our water supply will not be benefited.

Although the surface of our iloe is soft and nuisliy,
and we can see it waste away, and though the water is
all around our ditch, we seem to be no nearer libera-
tion. The ice at the sounding hole is yet forty-eight
inches thick, and the body of the ship seems to be held
firmly by ice which does not thaw, with such a layer of
water on top of it as our ditch shows. That waste does
occur to the surface of the ''oc is evident, not only
from the sinking of ashes and dirt, but from the ap-
pearance again on the surface of objects which were
long since biu'ied. This seems to afford the dogs great
satisfaction, for they occasionally unearth things which
they buried months ago, and thus lost, which they now
hud to enjoy to their hearts' content.

June od, Thursdwj. — The gale has blown itself out.
leaving us generally clear and pleasant weather. Since
May 3 1st we lun (^ advanced only nine miles to N. 27^
E., or about three miles a day. Evidently the ice to
the northward of us has no tendency to give way as
yet, and we accordingly have cushioned off to the east-
ward. Now it is a very interesting proldem (and we
may have the good fortune to solve it) which way this
ice goes, whether east or west, in the course of its path
to an outlet. That it does not steadily set S. and find
an outlet through Behring Strait is proved by our drift
X. W., jind the fact that but little ice comparatively
is met in Behring Sea in spring and none in summer.
That it is not wasted entirely l)v solar heat is also evi-
dent. If it did not go somewhere, the accumulation of
years would by this time have closed the Strait alto-
gether. That it goes N. is doubtful, because, proba))ly,
N.- of the 85th parallel the ice never breaks up enough

■liiiinriwii I \timimmmmm

ttmmmm

MMHwaaMii

A FIinZKX SUMMKK.

373

to porniit navij^ation. Ilonoi' it must <iO citlior E. or
W. To ^o K is in aecordanci' with the earth's rota-
tion and ('oni))hes witli theory, while in fact the Keso-
lute drifted E. through Uarrow Strait out into Davis
Strait. To go W. is contrary to hypotlieses base<l on
the rotation ol the earth and the supposed direction of
equatorial currents ; hut we have gone N. W. hy the
prolonged action and force of S. E. winds. Therefore
the wind may overpower the attraction of rotation, and
.set the ice in this ocean so far to the westward as to
bring it within the inlluence of the I'olar current about
Spitzbergen, and discharge it thus into the Atlantic.
Or we may in time, in accordance with my theory,
pass from the region of S. E. winds to a region of
N. W. winds, when, from their prevalence, they have
generated an easterly set, which, encouraged as it were
and accelerated by the motion of rotation above re-
ferred to, may carry the ice to the eastward through
the Archipelago, and cause it to niingle with the Polar
current known to be setting south through Smith
Sound and Davis Strait, and so on to the Atlantic. As
to there being any warm current reaching to a high
latitude, I very much doubt. We have found none ;
and I am inclined to agree with Lieutenant Weyprecht
when he says, "• The Gulf Stream does not regulate the
limits of the ice, but the ice, set in motion by winds,
regulates the limits of the warmer Gulf Stream water,
depriving the same of the last degrees of heat which it
contains ; " and I pronounce a thermometric gate-way
to the Pole a delusion and a snare. Of course if any
warm current came through Behring Strait it would l)e
the Kin'o Siwo, and our sea temperatures indicated no
such fact.

June ith, Friday. — A very unpleasant report was

^^'

374

rilK VOVACiH OF TIIK .lEAXNKTTE.

■I'

inadc to mv by tlio doctor, imnu'ly, that Nt'lse Tvorson,
coal-lioavt'T. was troml)!!!!^' on the lionler of itisanitv :
tliis was as iiiK'xpccti'd as it was astouiulnij:;. The
man all ahm^ had hi-cn liri^ht and ('hcortid. and dis-
posed to be active in liis hal)its as well as attentive to
his dnty. For a ihxy or two he has received medicine
for constipation, and in his conversations with the doc-
tor betrayed more nervonsness and anxiety and gen-
eral <lisqniet than simh a disorder shonhl have given
rise to. Tliis morninji'. however, on present inj; himself
at nine o'clock, he was very hysterical and nervons, in-
forming: the doctor in all seriousness that he was beiny;
watched, and that a mutiny was on foot among the
men ; that he had been approached on the subject, and
asked what he would do in such a case, etc. JJeing
closely plied with cpiestions he bur.st into tears and be-
came f[uite incoherent, going on with all sorts of rig-
marole. He n)entioned Sharvell, another coal-heaver,
as one who had approached him on the subject of mu-
tiny. This Sharvell is a mere lad, who would no more
be suspected by mc or any one else in the ship than a
child. This is a serious case, and 1 can bnt hojie that
time will alleviate the disorder. But at best Iverson
will always be more or less doubtful, and, of course, ut-
terly imlit for auv resronsibilitv. First i blind officer,

•' fit'

and now a crazy man - these will be serious charges
on my mind in any ei. rgencies. Oljservation.s to-day
reveal the mipleasiint f; t that we are going backward,
showing a drift of thrcv niles to 8. 34° E. This is not
at all pleasant. Motio? onward was pleasant enough,
but we cannot say the s.ttne for motion backward.

At work all day in stowing away against the bid-
wark the deck-house planking and frame, in rearrang-
ing our deck load of provisions, in unpacking our sleds,

tmtm

A FI{<)Zi:\ sr.M.MKU.

375

stowinji' tilt' provisions and doir food tlicv t'ontiii:rd in
tlu' sti'iun-cnttur, and in ^rni'ial I'li'anin^* np around
ship. We arc <i:radually ri'suniinji' sliip-sliapc propor-
tions, and shall soon he ready for a start northward and
eastward, or northward and westward, whichever the
ice and winds will permit, for, alas, our eoal-[»ile is loo
small to thiidv of doinj^- any ste'niinji' except in a great

emergency

The thermometer heginning at 25'' reaches '>" hy
six !•. M. and closes at od . \'ery pleasant and agree-
able, thus enabling ns to be indilTerent to having no
fire iji the stove.

Jutw f)tli, S(t(ur(f(i)/. — A day of no remarkable event,
except that my observations for [)osition reveal the un-
pleasant fact that Ave have been set back S. one half
W. four and ii half miles. This is due. of course, to
the northerly winds prevailing during the [jreceding
twenty-four hours. Some little encouragement can be
drawn iron the belief that our pi'ompt changes of j)osi-
tion, in compliance with change of wind, indicate a.
generally loosei' state of the ice than has been supposed
hitherto. 1 am hoping strongly day after day for some
indication of a coming liberation, but though we have
nearly daily a tempting Avater-sky in some direction or
other, no change yet comes. Chij)p has his hands full
in getting things into sh.ape, but everything is [)rogress-
ing favorably, our decks are rapidly clearing, and Wii
are snrely approaching the time when nothing will ic-
main but to hang the rudder and make .sail when the
ice gives us a chance to head toward some satisfactory
result of our Arctic cruise.

June (jth, Sumhiif. — In my sanguine moments dur-
ing the winter 1 used to hope for a lil)eration and con-
sequent advance in May, but here we are in June arid

376

THE VOYAGI-: OF THE JEANNETTE.

evcrytliinu" frozen as hard as ever. However, JS^il (h'S-
2)eramh()n !

At ten A. M., just as Ave were going to call all hands
to muster, a fall of rain compelled us to wait. It was
a pleasure to see it, and a positive luxury to hear it
pattering on the poop over our heads. It lasted but a
few moments, unfortunately for us, Ijecause rain will
do an iunnense amount toward thinning out the ice.

I inspected the ship, however, as usual, and found
evorvthing wonderfully neat and trim. We are cpiite
clear enough to work the ship, as far as the spar deck
is concerned ; and it will be a subject for experiment
whether, wlien she iloats agairi, her trim so much by
the stern will let her be handled under sail.

At one we had the general tnusteranu read the Arti-
cles of War, and following this I read divine service in
the cabin. We are almost down to our minimum ex-
penditure of coal. — 1,425 pounds for the past week.

Jiotc 7th, JJonday. — To-day our observations for po-
sition have produced a somewhat discouraging effect
upon me. The wind having prevailed from the north-
ward and westward, I was prepared for, and anticipated,
being set to the southward and eastward, perhnps S. E. ;
but to my disgust my sights (latitude 74^ 4' 37" N., lon-
gitude 177' 27' E.) showed that we have been set
seven and three ([uarters miles to S. seven degrees W.
Seven and three quarters miles of our hard fought drift
gone in a day. Had we gone east I would not have
minded it, for we always have something in that direc-
tion ; but to go any further to the westward seems like
trying to walk through a stone fence. There is plenty
of water-sky around us, too, as if to tempt us with a
sight of the impossible. As the wind still continues
from the northward and westward, wc must expect

p!i ,

A FROZEN SUMMER.

•J (

more southing by to-uiorrow ; but it will be douljly
hard if we make westing again, l^ecause it will sclmu
then that we have got a start for the coa.st of Siberia,
and there is nothing of honor in that. Never mind,
"The darkest hour is just before the dawn," and our
dawn may be a bright one.

The men were busy to-day scraping the ship's side in
readiness for painting. Surrounded as we are with ice,
we nevertheless shall make a good appearance. Ciii])p
already has the Jeannette clean and orderly, and will
have her in fine cruising order by the time the water
gets to us. Sweetman was at work securing the keel
runners to the boats, while Xindemann varnished the
binnacles and fitted '• pantalets " to them.

To-day we discontinued fires in the cabin and berth
deck, intending hereafter to limit our expenditure of
fuel to what is rec^uired in the galley and for distilling.
At first, no doubt, we shall feel the cold ; but a slight
discomfort now will weigh as nothing against accom-
plishing something this summer, or being comfortable
next winter. It is well to notice here, that now that
we have no fires in the stoves we boil our tea water by
steam, using a pipe Melville has fitted to the Baxter
boiler for that purpose.

June Sth, Tuesday. — Still going south and east. I
suppose we shall go in this dircctioJi until a southeaster
brings us up and sends us northwest.

June 'Jth, Wcdnesdm:. — Still uoimr south, — one mile
to S. 12° E. since vesterdav. However, that is a slight
affair, and hardly worth mention, for a promising feat-
ure developed itself in the shape of another S. E. wind,
which, springing up at six a.m., freshens, and by mid-
night reaches a velocity of eighteen miles, with indica-
tions of growing still fresher to-morrow. The tber-

■■|

o78

iiiK voyagp: of the .ieannettp:.

monioti'r boi^ins at 19.3", gets as high as 27.7"^, and
closes at 22\ — rather low to be without fires, but wo
do not mind it, at least most of us do not.

Jiuie \{)th, 71inr)i(hiy. — A gloomy, disagreeable day;
no observations possible ; in fine, nothing to do but re-
main shut np. thinking how lovely June is in these re-
gions, and how dull and dreary this confinement has
become. Over nine months held in bondage. Thus
f-ir in the month our prospect is not very promising.
It" we are to judge of the future by the past, very little
can be said tliat is favorable; but fortunately experi-
ence of others in other Arctic wastes has demonstrated
how quickly changes take ])lace, and how little can be
judged of the morrow by to-day.

fhiur l\f/t. Frlddi/. — Another day of gloomy, un-
pleasant weather, a drift to N. N. E. being indicated
by the lead line. A drift this way is a welcome change
to our going backward. Thick fog or impenetral)le
snow falls so soft that it melts on touching the floe, thus
depriving us of the satisfaction of getting drinking
water from it, whereby we might put our distiller out
of commission and save one hundred pounds of coal a
day.

Jioic Vlth, Siiturdd}/. — These are. T think, our gloom-
iest days, not alone because of the unpleasan,' weather,
but because of the continued disa])pointment, hour after
hour, at a time when we liave some reason to hope for
a release. Before many days the sun will have got his
furthest north, and will connnence going south again,
and that in itself is not a comforting circumstance.
Though the ice is visibly wasting on the surface, and
is sloppy and in places ankle deep in water, there is
enough that is firm and solid below to hold us fast,
and ])revent lanes or openings. This chasseeing around

A FUOZKN SUMMER.

879

17.T\ and
3s, but ^vo

able (lay ;
do but re-
i these re-
mcnt has
Thus

je.

)ronusing.
voi-y Httle
\y ex})eri-
lonstrated
tie can be

oniy, un-

indicated

le ehanye

)enetrable

Hoe. thus

(h'inkin^

illor out

of coal a

r <ilooni-
woather,
)ur after
lope for
12:0 1 his
1 again,
nstanco.
lU'C, and
there is
ns fast,
around

I
1

before varying winds will i)erhaps bring us up near
■where we started, ))ut it may also have the effect of
shaking up the ice and cracking it, in which case the
present teniperiiture will prevent a re-freezing, and
perhaps facilitate the making of a lane by which we
C!in move.

Jtine loth, Smiddi/. — The general gloominess is some-
what alleviated by the getting of observation for posi-
tion, wherebv I determine we are in latitude 74' '.]' 40"
N., longitude 170° 5o' 45" E., and have drifted since the
Dth instant thirteen miles to X. 01)' W. Not encourai"--
ing, either for the Pole or the N. W. Passage; but quien
sabe ?

At ten inspected the ship, findmg everything neat,
clean, and orderly. Divine service followed. Jack
captured a young fox. Turned it over to naturalist.

June 14(h, Monday, — Mr. Collins was added to our
sick-list last evening, — an attack of indigestion, or
something of that kind, whiv^h is not serious enough for
alarm. Danenhower's case remains the same, and the
doctor tells me nothing more can be done for him until
our return to the United States, To bring about any
change in his condition a very severe operation is neces-
sary, and in our circumstances such an operation is not
to be resorted to. Besides proper instruments, the sur-
geon ought to have an assistant, and the subsequent
treatment of the patient requires the conveniences and
appliances which a hospital alone can furnish. 80 far
as the purposes of this expedition are concerned, Da-
nenhower may be counted out entirely ; and my plans
and operations are therefore to be made without his
assistance or coiiperation.

All sorts of weather to-day, — sometimes a little blue
sky, oftener overcast, a little fog, a little snow, and

! ;,

■V ' "i

|: 1 ■

I I • -

380

Tin-: VOYAGI-: of the jkannktte.

some sqiuills. We aro eniiii<;e(l in iiaiiiting the ship
outside, ii curious spectacle in the ice-pack, and shall
look as neat and trim ere long as if we were at anchor
in a snug harbor. Ou ' boats are also being painted,
getting their share of the general " tarring " up.

Jinie Iblli, TiUKiJuy. — Much water-sky all around ho-
rizon, and from aloft we can see ponds here aiui there
at long intervals.

June lO^A, Wednesday. — Observations to-day place
us in 73^ 40' 54" N., and 177' 18' 15" E., showing that
we have drifted since yesterday thirteen miles to S. 18°
E. This is the hardest blow of all, and dilHcult to stand
up under. Are we never to have a change ? Our sound-
ings to-day are in twenty-five fathoms, so I suppose we
are drifting towards some shoal on which our ice-lield
may bring up. 1 am too disgusted to make any more
remarks on such a miserably resulting day.

June 17th, Tlnirsdaii. — Observations to-day place
us in 73° 33' 41" N., and 177° 27' 15" E.. showing a
drift since yesterday of 7.7 miles to S. 21° E.

The work of painting goes on as if we were in a har-
bor with other ships to look at us, instead of being hard
fast in the ice many hundi'ed miles away from the rest
of humanity. At all events we can admire the result
of our own labor.

June ISth, Friday. — Our daily monotony is very
depressing. Over nine months have we been held fast
and drifted here and there at the will of the winds. So
long as the temperature gave no chance for a change,
no one expected it, and we cheerfully accepted the in-
evital)le. When during the month of May we steadily
drifted to the northward and westward we were nearly
as well pleased as if we had had a lane to move the
ship along in, for we were advancing. Since the 4tli

A FUOZEX SUMMER.

3S1

ig the ship
:, and shiill
e at aiielior
ng painted,
' up.

around ho-
> aivJ there

'-day place
jwing that
!.s to 8. 18°
lit to stand
)ur sound-
nppose we
ir iee-field
any more

day phice
liowing a

in a har-

L'inn; hard

1 the rest

he result

is very

leld fast
nds. So

change,
1 the in-

steadily
i nearly
love the
the 4th

instant, however, we have been as steadily going hiick,
and to-day we are very nearly in the same latitude we
reached a month ago, and about fifteen miles W. of
our old track, going on " backward in our flight." Here
then, so far as we can judge, is a month lost, and worse
than lost, for we have got into shallower water where
but little wave action can or will take place to break
up the field which surrounds us. Water-sky in abun-
dance indicates some ponds, if no larger opening;
though as they change positions daily, no very consid-
erable opening can have occurred. In our innnediate
vicinity where the water pumped from the ship froze
over the old ice, the crust is thawing and forminy;
ponds. This makes our walking uncertain, for without
warning one is apt to break through and be in water
over his knees. As all around the ship ashes and ref-
use have been spread, presenting a black surface, the
ice underneath rapidly melts, and by the careful atten-
tions of Melville, Dunbar, and the doctor, the resulting
water is led by canals to the ditch, where, by its
warmth, say 30'', it honey-combs the heavier ice be-
neath. By the wasting of the ice the ship is more un-
covered, and within a day or two we have noticed that
she has come up, '' cradle and all," about four inches, as
indicated by the falling of the water-level on her doub-
ling. Every day Mr. Dunbar and the men are out on
the hunt, and occasionally a seal is brought in. in tow
of the dogs, as the result. All bears seem to have dis-
appeaio'l. not a single track having been seen for some
days. The}' evidently have gone to the land, wiiere
the breedinu: season aifords them more attractive food
than seal meat at rare intervals.

June VJih, Safurdai/. — Observations to-day show
a drift to S. 47" E. seven miles. That our drift is not

■

:
I

382

TIIK VOYAC.K OF THE JEAN'XETTK.

i >

groiitor is roniiirkuble, for, in the past twenty-tour hours
we have had N. W. winds, with velocities ranging iVoni
sixteen to twenty-four miles an hour. However, our
field may have brought up, and though we are deepen-
ing our water again to twenty-three and a half fathoms,
it may be that we are being edged off, as the ice grinds
on the shoal. Otherwise the day is without interest.
Puffy, squally weather and occasional snow flurries go
to make up a June day in these latitudes.

Jfuie 'loth, >Sunda>/. — Another week has come and
gone and we are in the same place. Instead of repin-
ing at not advancing, I suppose I ought to be grateful
that 1 have a ship to hold us together, but weak human
n'ature crops out occasionaUy.

At ten T inspected the ship, finding everything in
good condition, and shining with the coat of paint that
has been applied. Then divine service was performed
in the cabin. Newconib, while out to-day, found a
dozen mosquitoes. Carefully did he bring them to the
ship as trophies. They were, when found on the snow,
dull and sluggish, as if blown a long distance by the
wind.

Jujie 2\st, Monday. — The advent and departure of
another day to record ; and except that it is the longest
day in the year to some people ( though not of course
to us, since we have the sun the whole twenty-four
hours), it is hardly worth recording. Observations show
us that we have drifted, since the 19th, eleven and
three tenths miles to S. 68° E. Discouraging, very.
And yet my motto is, " Hope on, hope ever." A very
good one it is Avhen one's surroundings are more natural
tlian ours; but situated as we are it is better in the ab-
.?tra( t than in realization. There can be no greater Avear
and tear on a man's mind and patience than this life in

i^M^^nnHKbHSR^Bfl

A FUOZKX SUMMER.

3S:i

the ])!U'k. The absoluti) monotony ; tlio uncliaiigini^
round ol" hours ; the awiikonhiy; to the same thiims and
the same con(htions that one saw just before losing
one's self in sleep ; the same faces ; the same dogs ; the
same ice ; the same conviction that to-morrow will be
exactly the same as to-day, if not more disagreeable ;
the absolute impotence to do anything, to go anywhere,
or to change one's situation an iota ; the realization
that food is being consumed and fuel burned with no
valuable result, Ijcyond sustaining life ; the knowledge
that nothing has been accomplished thus far to save
this expedition from being denominated an utter fail-
lu'e ; all these things crowd in with irresistilde force on
my reasoning powers each night as 1 sit down to rellect
upon the events of the day. and but for some still small
voice within me that tells nu' this can hardly be the
ending of all my labor and zeal, 1 should be tempted to
<lespaii".

All our books are read, our stories related ; our games
of chess, cards, and checkers long since discontinued.
When we assemble in the morning at brcidvfast we
make (hiily a fresh start. Any dreams, amusing or pe-
culiar, are related and laughed over. Theories as to
Avhether we shall eventuallv drift N. E. or N. W. are
brought forward and discussed. Seals' livers as a
change of diet are pronounced a success. The temper-
ature of the morning watch is inquired into, the direc-
tion and velocity of the wind, and if it is snowing (as
it generally is) we call it a '' fine summer day." After
breakfast we smoke. Chipp gets a sounding and an-
nounces a drift E. S. E. or S. E., as the case may be.
We growl thereat. Dunbar and Alexey go off lor
seals with as many dogs as do not run away from them
en route. The doctor examines Danenhower and Iver-

1 1

f!'

lit

i^.

384

TIIK VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

sen, his two chronic patients. Melville draws a little
for this journal, sings a little, and stirs everybody up to
a realization that it is daytime. Danenhower talks in-
cessantly — on any or all subjects, with or without an
audience. The doctor moralizes between observations ;
I smoke ; Mr. Newcomb makes his preparations for
dredging specimens ; Mr. Collins has not appeared, his
usual hour being 12.30 in the afternoon. Meanwhile,
the men have been set at work ; a sled and dogs are
dispatched for the day's snow for washing purposes.
The decks are cleared up, soundings made, berth deck
inspected, and work of painting, scraping, or whatever
is on hand commenced. The day's rations are served
out to the cook, and then we commence to drift out on
the ice to dig ditches, to look at the dogs, calculate the
waste in the ice since yesterday, and the probable
amount by to-morrow. The dredge is lowered and
hauled. I get the sun at meridian, and we go to din-
ner. After dinner more smoke, more drawing, more
singing, more talk, more ditch and canal-making, more
hunting, more work, more dog inspection, and some at-
tempts at napping until four p. m., when we are all
around for anything that may turn up. At 5.30 time
and azimuth sight, post position in cabin, make chart,
go to supper at six, and discuss our drift, and then
smoke, talk, and general kill-time occupations until ten
p. M., when the day is ended. The noise subsides ; those
who can, go to bed ; I write the log and my journal,
make the observations for meteorology until midnight.
Mr. Collins succeeds me four hours, Chipp him four
hours, the doctor next four hours, Mr. Collins next six
hours, I next two hours, Melville next two huurs, and I
end the day ngain, and so it goes.

Our meals necessarily have a sameness. Canned

iijjw ■■»-

A FKOZKX SU.MMKU.

885

awing, more

llins next six

Iss. Canned

luejits, salt beef, salt pork, an'l bear meat have the
same taste at one time as another. Each dixy has its
bill of fare, but after varyinti' it every day for a week
we have, of course, to commence over again. Conse-
((uently we have it by heart, and know what we are
going to eat before we sit down at table. Sometimes
the steward startles us with a potato salad (potatoes
now rotting too fast for our consumption), or a seal's
liver, or a bear's tongue ; but we generally are not dis-
turbed in that way. Our bill of fare is ample and good,
our water is absolutely pure, and our fresh bread is
something marvelous. Though disappointed day after
day we are cheerful and healthy, and — here we arc.

Every tbing looks unsettled aboivt the weather to-
day. We have some squalls, a little rain, a little snow,
a little mist, plenty of water-sky, and, alas, plenty of
ice. The temperature ranges between oo" and 30°.

Jime 22d, Tuesday. — As a finishing touch to our
cleaning house we to-day blacked down the rigging.
Mr. Newcomb shot and secured a beautiful Eoss gull,
which from its rarity is quite a prize. This makes the
third of this species that he has secured, two last fall
and one to-day.

June 2od, Wednesday. — Ross gulls are by no means
rare with us, however rare they may be in other parts
of the world, for to-day Aneguin shot another one and
brought him in, making four in our collection. Our
bear meat beginning to run low, we have set to
work accumulating seals, not only for the dogs but for
our own possible food, and I am much pleased to find
that we have now twenty-seven on hand. Every day
hunting parties are out bringing in one or two. Thus
far Ave bury the seals in the snow to preserve them
from the heat(?) of the sun, which will, of course, last
25

« 1

1 .

11 I

38B

Till-: vuYA(iK OK riiK J i: ANN Km:.

only as loiiu; as \vi> arc held last. When we move, I
suppose we must utilize some empty space in the coal
huiiki'i's as a stow ])lace lor the carcasses. For some
reason we see no walruses. The anu)unt of briuht
sunlight we have hail since the temi)erature has hccn
pleasant has not been suHicient, perhaps, to induce the
walruses to come out and hask in it. This month has
been an eminently unpleasant one, lor thou<i:h the tem-
perature has been com[)arativcly hi<i'h, say o2^ so nuich
moisture has been contained in tlie air as to make us
jilwajs chilly. The thawing on the surface of the iloe
has kept everything sloppy, some j)laccs being an inch
deep and more in water. Under such circumstances
moccasins are of no use; rubber boots for steady wear
are crippling to the feet, and wo are compelled to fall
back upon leather boots, which, though kept impervious
to water by constant greasing, make our feet cold and
imcomfortable. My ])lan is to wear my boots only
when in the main cabin or on the ice ; as soon as 1
come into my own room I put on a pair of bird-skin
slip])ers which Mr. Dunbar made for me, and which are
as warm as can be desired.

Owing to the accumulation of ashes and rul)*l)i.sh
aronnd the ship, the ice in that locality is rapidly wast-
ing, and in consequence more and more of the ship's
hull is being uncovered. Besides this there is a wast-
ing going on in the ice-cradle which holds her, and this
relief of so much weight allows her to rise more nearly
to her proper flotation. This we see indicated by the
daily difference of the water-level, and it averages
nearly an inch a day. In an idle moment I appointed
the 4th of July, the anniversary of the Jeannette's
christening, as the time wlien she would again be atloat
and under way, and I shall be the happiest man north

ii^rrm^

A FIloZKX SIMMKU.

.SSI

we move, I
; in llio coal
For some
it ol" brijiht
iro lias hiH'ii
o induce the
< month lias
i>ih the tem-
o2\ so much

to make us
i of the iloe
(cing an inch
ircumstances

steady wear
pelled to fall
)t impervious
[eet cold and
\- boots only

as soon as I

of bird-skin
lid which are

md rul)1)ish
apidly wast-
of the ship's
•e is a wast-
ler, and this
more nearly
!ated by the
it averages
I appointed
Jeaniiette's
;ain be afloat
t man north

of the Arctic Circle if such proves the case. Since <»nr
sii))ply of snow begins to be dillicult of access on ac-
count of the slojjpy condition of the ice which inaUcs
sledding bad, we to-day lllled our tank on the spar deck
with the water from the pools. The tiMiiiierature is
sulhcient to prevent acciflent to our tank by any free/-

lUg.

The dismal monotonv of our daily existence still con-
tlnues, and while our drift is southward ho ! our ,'^ocial
barometer is kept correspondingiy low. The only ani-
mate creatures in whom I detect no change are the
dogs. They seem perfectly oblivious to idl surround-
ings, utterly indilferent whether the sun shines or does
not shine, so long as they are fed. From the liberal
diet of bear meat and seals' entrails thev have re-
mained as fat as dumplings, and re])udiate utterly any
labor or exertion. When with the sunshine the tem-
perature reaches ',V1\ it is amusing to see them pant,
and seek shady places, while we human beings are
merely comfortable. However, their heat hasji better
non-conductor than ours.

Juiie 24///, JliHVsdufj. — A day without anything in
particular to record.

June 2r)fh. Fridat/. — This day is worthy of record as
bringing another Ross gull, shot by Aneguin, and no
less than nine seals. Hesides this Aneguin saw and
shot his last cartridge into a young bear, but the ani-
mal, though bleeding freely, took to the water and
escaped. The •' water " referred to is the long lane
about one and a half miles S. E. of the ship, which
is daily visited by seal hunters. Thermometer is gen-
erally at Sr and 32% but at three p. m. it was :J7.5'.
Oh, if we could have it at 100° for a wx'ck to melt this
ice rapidly ! That some melting is going on beneath is

f:.

. '

( f ■

i,]

388

TFIK V()YA(;i: OK 11 IK JKANNKTIK.

} *

^ • i!

shown by the watci-lcvol <r<)inD^ stoadily down on tin*
shijj's side, tlic wt'ij;lit holding- hor down bi'conunj^ less.
We now liiivc tlu> sea-level at nine leet seven and a
hall" inches forward.

June liti/A, Safirrddi/. — A drift of eijrht miles N.
85° W. Thns it, •••()os, E. one day, \V. the next, N. one
week, S. the next. When will this come to an end ?
Twenty-four fathoms soundings, W. S. W. drift, also
oncoura<;in*^, very I An openini>' ten feet wide oc-
curred in the ice half way to the old openin;^' one
and a half miles S. E. of the ship. Much water-sky
in all directions.

Jinie lltli. Sumhiii. — At ten a. m. made my usual
Sunday inspection, and read divine service thereafter
in the cabin. From the crow's-nest we can .see that
we are in the centre of an ice island, a lane of water in
sorae places a (juarter of a mile wide suirounding us at
a distance of a mile. This woidd show that the ice
does sometimes open in these latitudes, a fact which I
had begun to doubt hitherto.

June 2i^th, 3I()it(/(ii/. — Mr. Dunbar started out this
morning with the dingy to go ducking, intending to go
to the lane of water about one mile N. W. of us, and
ti'y luck. He came back about fotu' r. m. with thirteen
ducks, and informed me that he followed the lane
(which he thought ran N.) for nearly fifteen miles
without coming to its end. The ice on each side (at
times two thirds of a mile wide) was very old and heavy,
live and six feet out of water, and so dee]) inider water
that he could not see the bottom of it. 1 began to look
^lpon this as an avenue of escape, and ran over in my
mind how I could get the ship through the mile of in-
tervening ice into the lane and push on for something.
But 1 need not have ex vcised my slumbering brain

A FROZKN SUMMKIl.

389

tissue, for toward midnight the luno oommoneod to
doso, and 1 had the melancholy satisl'action ot" realiz-
ing that liad the ship heen there she would in all prob-
ability have had a line sciueezing.

We find that the amount of water coming' into the
.ship forward is decreasini^ (juite sensibly, for we do not
have to run our windmill nearly as mneh as formerly.
The leak, or supposed leak aft, has stopped altogether.
The ice right around us is wasting very fast, and we
still continue to rise, bringing our cradle with us. To-
day the water-line is at nine feet four inches on our
.stem. We are heeling 4° to starboard (3^ all winter),
and our doubling on the starboard side is al)Out four
inches above the water. The surface of our tloo is
dotted here and there with small lakes, which enable
v.s to get water readily for our tank, and present so
many excellent laundries for washing clothes. How
disgusting it is to see i<!e form on the surface of our
little lakes at the end of June.

June 2dth, Tuesdaii. — An uneventful day. We have
drifted since yesterday three miles to S. 31'' E. Not
very encouraging, but still I hope on, hope ever. The
lane of open water which Mr. Dunbar followed up for
fifteen miles yesterday has closed again to-day, its gen-
eral direction being indicated by disconnected small
ponds here and there. The ship is still rising, the
water-level being now at nine feet on the stem.

June oQth, Wednesday. — The month of June comes
to an end, and leaves us, I am sorry to say, fifty miles
S. 9" E. of where we were at its conunencement. We
are, in fact, no further N. than we were between May
16th and 17th, and may be said to have accomplished
nothing in six weeks — both cheerful and encouraging !
Our position to-day is in 72' 19'41"N., and 178° 27' 30"

■

fei:

■ f

\ ii

I'lU

r il:

I I

300

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

E., and we htive <j;one since yesterday S. 52° E. the
enormous distance of one mile ! I am almost disgusted
beyond redemption. To stand still would bo bad enough,
but to go backward is worse. To-day I had to inflict
the first punishment of the cruise on Boyd, fireman,
giving him watch and watch for twenty-four hours in
the fire-rooin, for profane and abusive language to a
shipmate. A magnificent day for weather, — a tem-
perature of 41° at two p. M,, and 34° at midnight. Not
a cloud from noon to midnight. Mr. Dunbar took the
dingy out to the long lead to-day, but found it all closed
up. No ducks, therefore, were brought back, l)ut a Ross
gull, which, though quite rare in Europe and America,
is with us a drug almost, for we have seven.

'J'(/i/ 1^'/, Thursday. — We commenced a new month
with bright, pleasant weather, and almost cloudless sky,
light southerly wind, and a temperature ranging from
33° to 38°. And as an encouraging fact, our si<>;lits
show that we have drifted since yesterday two miles to
N. 40° E. Let us hope that it is the beginning of a new
era, and that we are now going to advanc^e and no
longer retreat. Nearly ten months held fast in the ice,
but yet we are all here, and with two exceptions in
good health. Danenhower drags along in as uncertain
a condition as ever. Of late his eye has been accumu-
lating trouble and begun to affect its mate, and the doc-
tor has been compelled to cut and proljo again daily as
he did early in the winter. Though Danenhower stands
the trial well, as fn,r as his general health is concerned,*
I fear he may not be able to stjind the wear and tear of
another winter in the pack if we are unfortunate enough
to have to endure it. He is, of course, very thin and
bleached from his long confinement, but seems alwa\ s
bright and cheerful, and speaks of getting back to duty

A FROZEN SUMMP:K.

391

in a short time, which, of course, I know to be out of
the question. Our other sick man, Iversen, seems to be
improving, only occasionally breaking out into hysteri-
cal weeping, etc, ; but his gloomy ideas of being watched
and a mutiny, etc., seem to have subsided.

Our coal account shows that we have remaining fifty-
six and one half tons. At all hazards 1 must retain
thirty tons for keeping us warm and cooking and dis-
tilling next winter, so that I have just twenty-six tons
that could be devoted to steaming in case 1 had a fair
chance to accomplish anything. As our consumption
per diem in steaming would be at least five tons, I have
in round numbers five dajs' steaming. And with tiiis I
have to make the Pole, accomplish the N. W. Passage,
or go back empty handed. What an ending the last
Avould be compared with our beginning, — the yachts,
the fort's salute, etc., etc. It makes my heart sick to
think of it. What a return for the expenditure of
money ! What a realization of all my fond dreams and
hopes !

To-day our men dug away the ice under and around
our propeller well, hoping for a time soon to come when
we can get the screw up and hav(^ a look at it. We
still rise slowly, but there is yet a large mass clinging
to us. Melville tried the other day to turn the screw
shaft by jacking, bat it was held too rigidly.

Jnhj 2d, Frldai/. — Another une^'cntful day< i'ud such
gloriously beautiful weather that our enforc< d idleness
Ijcctnnes terrible. A temperature ranging from .'54" to
46.4° and back to 32°, and ponds here and there to
mock us witli .. . ter that Is too little for na','iu,ation and
too salt for drinking — at all these we stand and look,
and see one day more pass by without our having done
a thing that is to our credit.

T:^

■ i^:'

W¥

392

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Jiih/ od, Saturdny. — The jimonnt of watr" finding
its wiiy into the fore peak has become very small, and
within the last week or two just a small stream running
over the floors. But to-day even that small amount has
ceased, and the fore peak and flour-room are both as
dry as a bone. The amount of water lodging in the
fire-room bilge is correspondingly small. We have been
accustomed to let about live inches accumulate, in order
to have a convenient feed for our distilling apparatus,
running the windmill, or pumping by hand, when that
depth has been increased. The light airs and calms of
the past day or two have necessitated the use of the
(juarter deck bilge-pump, and 1 have remarked that a
dozen strokes or so each hour have caused it to '' suck."
The melting of the surface ice around us has so much
decreased the mass of ice surrounding the ship that it
has been buoyed up by the water bringing the ship with
it, and to-day the water-level is at a height, or perhaps
more properly depth, of eight feet seven inches on our
stem.

The decrease of the leak is pleasant enough, though
of course I can assign r^j satisfactory reason. The
clia ge from 3,003 gallons per hour to a dozen strokes
of a hand bilge-pump is too remarkable to be mentioned
casually. The change has been gradual, and inexplica-
ble beyond a certain extent. The settling down and
hardening of the oatmeal, white lead, oakum, etc., be-
tween the frames may have caused a partial barrier to
the entrance of the water, and the raising of the ship
and ice out of the water, and so diminishing the height
of the water head, may have so decreased the pressure
as to nuike that barrier efl'ectual. As no water flows
into the fore peak, this seems to follow naturally, and
the small accumulation in the lire-room may proceed

\\\ V

rinding

tr
small, and

im running
imount has
re both as
ing in the
have been
te, in order
apparatus,
when that
id calms of
use of the
ved that a
to "suck."
IS so much
hip that it
i ship with
)r perhaps
les on our

h, though

on. The
n strokes

:ientioned
nexplica-
own and
etc., be-

parriei- to
the ship
»e height
pressure
ter flows
iilly, and
proceed

A FROZEN SUMMER.

'-> o •-»

from some other source yet undiscovered. Small as it
is, it will not occasion us much uneasiness. 1 am un-
able to get under the coal bunkers, because of the iifty-
six odd tons of coal there remaining, and the impracti-
cability of attempting to remove it while 1 am daily
hoping for a breaking up of the ice and a resumption
of our voyage.

We have dug awav all the ice we could get at under
the stern, in the hope of liberating our screw in order
to trice it up for examination. But enough ice re-
n ail ;■> under water to hold it firmly. Leaning 3° or 4"
^o ,^. >o a'd, the port side of our ship looms up like a
iri<.nte, and at a little distance we stand, seemingly, on
top of the ice. Drawing but eight feet seven inches
forward, and twelve feet aft, gives us a very " down at
heel " look, and makes me wonder what we shall really
tlraw when the ice-cradle breaks up under us and lets
us down to our line of flotation.

Our daily expenditure of fuel amoiuits to one hun-
dred and seventy pounds. (One hundred and ten
pounds for the galley and sixty for distilling.) I am
very nnich in hope that the distilling may soon be dis-
continued; i(.>'- ilie doctor, who has been carefully
watching and experimenting with the melting ice hum-
mocks au 1 'II J ponds, informs me to-day that, though
the ponds iv»*e oo dt for use, the surfaces of the liuui-
inocks give water containing onlv two grains of chlo-
rine. Accordingly on Monday we shall connnonce col-
lecting surface ice in barrels, thawing the same and
testing the resulting water, and accumulate a tankt'ul
if possilde, thus relieving the distiller, and saving sixty
pounds :al per diem.

The :i ■!< ])onds in our neighborhood luive been freez-
ing eveij i ight at midnight with the thermometer at

» ■'
'' 1

8U4

TIIK VOYAGE OF THE ,7E ANNETTE.

'.t I

•'? I-

30° and 31°, thus indicating the comparative freshness
of their waters. In the daytime our dogs drink fi-eely
from these ponds, and our men use them as convenient
washing-phices for clothes. To-day an amusing sight
was presented by a wash-tub, wash-board and all, on the
ice, and the nautical performer as earnestly engaged in
his laundry as if no such thing as ice or a ship was
within a thousand miles.

To-day we ate the last of our bear meat, that good
and .solid addition to oui 1^'^^ during the many months
we have been in the icc Living upward of forty
seals, we shall now occasionaiiy fall back on them for a
chany;e in our bill of fare. Yesterdav we had ducks
for dinner in the cabin, the result of Mr. Dunbar's hunt
the other day ; to-day we had bear fore and aft, and
to-morrow all hands will try seal. Our position to-day
is in latitude 73° 24' 13" N., and longitude 178° 34'
E., having drifted since yesterday the stupendous dis-
tance of one and four tenths miles N. 27° W. Any-
thing, however, so long as it is not S. Weather bright
and pleasant ; brilliant sunshine for the whole twenty-
four hours makes me deplore our inability to devote it
to accomplishing some good and useful purpose.

July 4:th, Sunihuf. — In reality this is Monday, July
5th, because we have crossed the 180th meridian, and
should have changed our date ; but as I hope to get E.
again this summer, I have seen fit to keep the old reck-
oning. A year ago to-day we were in San Francisco,
and received a visit from Lord Loftus, while on his way
to Sydney, as Governor of New South Wales. At din-
ner to-dav we recidled that event. Ah, well ! who can
tell what a year will bring forth. We certainly have
not realized our anticipations by long odds ; and I see
in the faces round about me no hope of so doing.

A FllOZKX SUMMEU.

895

Stuck in the ice — mired, in fact, at 73' 24' N., it is
hard to hope tluit we shall make any record worth com-
jaaring with any other. Being the first Sunday in the
month, we had, of course, the Articles of War and
general muster preceding my inspection and divine ser-
vice.

Jahj bth, MonfJ'iij. — Celebrated the anniversary of
American Independence by dressing ship with ensigns
at mast-heads, and signals in a rainbow ; and 1 hope
American Independence will feel sulficiently compli-
mented by its celebration ..n .his place for the first time.
The weather prevented me from determining the exact
spot of the celebration by observations. The latitude,
73' 20' 7" N., is all 1 could get. Thick fog and .«
searching mist made a wretched daj'. The Hags were
all covered with rinu; and frost when hauled down,
and will need several days' good sunning to be dried.

Jnhj Qth, Tuesday. — All our time and attention
were occupied to-day in collecting surface ice and thaw-
inu' the same in our water tank for drinkini»: and cookini«-
pui'poses. The greatest care was exercised in the sl'-
lection of the ice ; but occasionally some would prove
to have been dug too deeply, and would givb so much
salt in its resulting fluid as to require rejection. As a
general rule, the soft snow^-like surface crusL was suffi-
ciently fresh to make a potable ele:nent ; but if by ac-
cident or carelessness the spade struck into the under-
lying ice, a salty solution was the result. Dr. And)ler
and Chipp watched the matter closely and faithfully,
repeated tests being made of each barrelful of snow
before emptying it into the tank ; and I am satisfied
that every precaution was taken to provide a sufficiently
pure element. The change from distilled water to
melted ice is a bold experiment, and only warranted by

s).

396

THE VOYAGE OF THE .TE ANNETTE.

'' '.
i

■J

our zeal to save every pound of coal we can for possi-
ble steaming this suunner, or keeping us warm next
winter. To quicken the process of thawing, a steam-
pipe was led from the steam-cutter's boiler into the
tank on the spar deck, and the steam driven into the
tank through it. As our tank holds four hundred gal-
lons, I am anxious to accumulate that <|uantity rapidly,
and shut down on all consumption of fuel, except for
the galley, as speedily as possible. Parties going out
to hunt return with the news that the ship is in the
centre of an island of ice about two and one half miles
in diameter, with a narrow canal running around it.

Jiih/ 7th, Wednesday. — We succeeded in getting
our tank filled to-day with a sufficiently pure water
from melted surface ice, and I accordingly directed the
distilling to be stopped. Thus we save sixty pounds of
coal per diem, and give a rest to our engineer's depart-
ment, which has been steadily employed in night and
day watches all the winter and spring ; in fact, upon
the firemen and coal-heavers has fallen most of the un-
comfortable toil, for whether in distilling, or running
steam -pumps, or repairing, they have not had an all-
night in since November.

Such little pumping as is required, about a dozen
strokes every two hours, is done by the man on watcii
for the time being, and we have now little beyond the
ship's routine, except watching and waiting for an open-
ing in the ice that will let us free.

Nowhere in my life have I experienced or felt such
a perfect silence as prevails in these icy wastes when
the wind dies away. It is positively maddening. After
ten p. M., when all noise ceases on board ship, and the
dogs are dozing away on ash heaps and dirty spots
around her, one standing a little distance apart and

A FKOZKX SUMMER.

307

lookin"? at the surroundinuN would feel inclined to be-
lieve that no life exii^ted but his own. On .such occa-
.sions 1 go a little distance olt' and ruminate over our
pa.st, and wonder a.s to our future ; but to-night the si-
lence was .so painful as to easily induce me to go back
to the cabin where my own kind could be .seen and
their voices heard.

The running of the w\ater over the floes in long lane.s
has made regular sluice ways through which the melt-
ings run to find the .sea-level. Our old sounding hole,
about one hundred yards on the star))oard quarter,
olters an access to the sea, and .several streams have
scoured a way or had a way made for them. This run-
ning water has wasted the ice away until ,it the edges
of the hole it is but two feet thick, and covered with
six inches of water swirling about like a maelstrom.
Through this we can see the seeming black cavern be-
low , and in the monotony which hangs aroinid us I
almost feel tempted to jump down it to see where it
goes to.

Jul II Sth, Thursday/. — I have hereinbefore men-
tioned that the greatest thickness of a single floe seen
by us was seven feet ten inches, or say roughly eight
feet. When, after ramming the ship through forty
miles of leads last September, she was finally brought
up, I pushed her into a crevice between two heavy
floes which we subsequently found to be thirteen feet
in thickness. I think this great depth was caused by
the overriding of one floe on another, and regelation
under pressure having taken place, the two became
united as one mas.s. Mr. Dunbar, in his several tranqis,
has met ice which he describes as "so deep that you
could now see how deep it wns." This being rather
vague, 1 directed him to-day to take with him a line,

-•' A

i'i

1 i

;5!)S THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

with liook attached, to catch under these iloes, and thus
give a measure of their thickness. Upon his return
he reports that he measured Hoes ten and twelve feet
thick, and some fourteen and fifteen feet thick, and the
surf.ice was " from a foot to eighteen inches above the
water." It is, of course, impossible that such thick-
nesses should be ascribed to any one single floe. 1 am
.satisfied that when water has frozen to a thickness of
eight feet the ice forms a blanket which elVectually
prevents the radiation of heat from the water beneath,
and thus makes further freezing impossible. Any
further thickness is due to deposits of snow on the sur-
face, or the shoving under of another floe and a union
by regelation between the two. When, last November,
we were squeezed out of our icy bed and pushed out
into water, we were as truly floating for a time as if in
mid-ocean. The next day, however, \ve were iced in.
Tiiis freeziui!; continued from November 28th to Jnnu-
ary 17th, by which latter date the ice had a thickness
of forty-eight inches (four feet). Subsequent measure-
ments were rendered impossible by the smash up of
the I'Jth of January, when floes so overrode and under-
rode our surrounding ice as to jumble it all in a heap.
When we connnenced to dig a canal around the ship we
du"- throuiih four feet of ice before the water flowed in
on us, but that depth was due to piling up, of course,
and not to any direct freezing. As our leak has almost
altogether subsided, it is safe to assume that we are
buoyed up by a floe of ice extending down and under
the keel, which floe, being lightened by its surface
thawing under the ashes and refuse we had spread
around us, is enabled to float so nui(!h higher. One of
these days, let us hope, this mass will break and let us
down to our bearings.

A FHOZENT SUMMER.

399

July d(h, Friday. — The events of the clay may be
summed up in a few Avords. Our position shows a drift
of one mile to S. 24° E. Encouraging, very. We loose
sails for the first time in over ten months, and find
them just as good as they were the day they were last
furled.

Ju/>/ l{)th, Suturclay. — A day of almost steady rain
and fog, and, to my sensation, more disagreeable in
temperature .than the coldest weather of winter. The
thermometer ranged between 30° and 34. -T, but the
dampness and moisture seemed to pierce to the bone
and marrow.

Jidy W-th, Sunday. — I succeeded in establishing our
position to-day in latitude 73° 38' N., longitude 177°
59' 30" E., showing a drift since the 9th of one and
four tenths miles to N. 68° E. This seems to be worse
and worse, for at this rate before many days we shall
stand absolutely still. It is aw^tdly discouraging to
wait a couple of days for a sight of the sun (and hope,
meanwhile, that you are drifting in some decent man-
ner), and find at last that you have moved a mile.
Had the usual Sunday inspection, followed by divine
service.

Since the distilling has ceased we light a wood fire
in the galley each evening to boil the tea water. Our
empty barrels and boxes have accumulated largely, so
we have quite a supply to fall back upon for occasional
fires instead of using coal.

Jidy ISth, Tuesday. — Observations to-day show a
drift since yesterday of three and seven tenths miles to
N. 13° W. We seem to be coming up slowly, ice and
all, as indicated by the gradual falling of the water-
level on our hull. Heeling 5° to starboard still, and
that is also slightly increasing. Of course I cannot say

|v ^•

400

'llli; VOYAOE OF rilK JKANNETTi:.

\<..fk

; ji

I: .[

wlit'ii this will sloj). In onler to got an idea of the cor-
rect tliickiK'ss ol' i1k' \cv in our iH'ij;lil)orli(jo(l (in case
suljsequont emergency should make it advisable to dig
or saw out a dock, h' possible, and make an eitort to
drag the ship into it). 1 directed Chij)p to make bor-
ings, and he reports, as far as can be made out, the
situation as follows : —

The ship is held firmly by a cradle of ice which, from
the mainmast aft, averages five feet in thidvness. (Un-
der the stem it is live feet four inches thick below the
surface of the water.) From ahead to the mainmast,
about, thei'o is a second floe piece which shoved under
the first floe on January 10th.

Thickness of ice below the surface of the water : —

Uiulor tlio stem 5 ft. -4 in.

50 ft. a.steni 4 ft. o in. •

100 ft. asteiii 4 ft. ;5 in.

' loO ft. astern 5 ft. in.

250 yds. starboard quarter 5 ft. in.

The ice us a general thing has its surface about four
inches above the level of the water. This is what is
left of the direct freezing since November oO, 1870, of
course thawing having taken place on the surface by
reason of the sun's ra^s, and underneath by action of
the warmth of the water, say o4\

In company with Melville and Dunbar I walked (me
of Mr. Dunbar's mile estimates (about two and a half
miles in fact) to the S. E., where there has been an
opening affording seal shooting. In a straight line, as
a bird would fly, it is about one and a quarter miles dis-
tant, the increased amount being caused by necessary
detours, to go around small ponds which one cannot
jump over, and which are in places over one's boot-tops
in depth. These are, of course, formed from surface

A V'UOZKN SCM.MKU.

401

tliiiwini^. Arrived at the " opou Wiitor" it proved to
be nearly clostdl, ii width of six ieet only allowing a
look down in the depths helow. The ice seemed to he
about four ieet in thiekness. but looking oidy was very
deeei)tive. in this precious lane there floated a broken
portion of the Hoe, ami anxious to realize the sensation
of being under way again 1 embarked on it and pushed
myself aeross. Near the old opening there was consid-
erable dirty ice, with shells and small pebbles, showing
that this ice had been on the bottom, or had rubbed
along the land, or ((juery '.') was it refuse matter left on
it by a walrus V Near by we found a log of birch (?),
heavy from water soaking, but soiu\d and fresh at the
fractured end. Not being able to bring it in we stuck
it up in a hiuumock. that some men might let their
dogs drag it in to-morrow. Wo started with three
dogs, but not liking to wet their feet they ran away
from us and returned to the ship.

July lAth, Wi'dnesdHij. — Having great dillicidty in
getting any work out of our *• hoodlum gang," Jack,
Tom, and Wolf, a method of punishment had to be de-
vised. Ordinarily they lie around on ash-heaps all day
in the sun, blinking la/.ily, and ready to head an attack
on some wandering dog in search of a l)one, or more
particularly sallying out to meet some dog returning
with the hunters, who has incurred their grave dis-
pleasure by assisting at any work. The sight of a
harness, merely, reminds them of a pressing eugaLii^-
mer.t elsewhere : and the moving of a dog sled in their
rany-e of vision seems su<i,'gestive of the advisabilitv of
a change of base. Accordingly, each morning, when
the ice has to be dragged in for melting, these three
are occupied in surveying the work from a distance
until it is completed, and then they unite in an attack
26

J )

., 1

11 '

Will

11 i^^ I

402

TlIK VOVACK OF TIIK .II;ANNK T IK.

on those wlio did the dnigginj^. Tliey wcro caught by
.strategy to-(hiy, however, juid liarne.ssed up; but Tom
slipped his harne.ss (juietly and bolted, while Wolf
chewed his through and escaped. When caught they
were .securely tied to a rope over the stern, and kept
there until ten i'. m., when, in order that their howln
nnght not keep everybody awake, they were anchored
Avith an ice-claw some distance oil". This disgusted
them. Tom took his punishment Holemnly and (piietly,
but Wolf yelled ince.s.santly, so much .so, that Tom got
provoked and thrashed him twice into .silence.

Position to-day, latitude N. 78^ 42' 50", longitude E.
178° r, showing a drift since yesterday of three and
two tenths miles due E. Much fog and mi.st, and occa-
sional drizzling rain, throughout the day. About o' ^
and a fourth miles N. W. of the ship there is a 1
of water one fourth mile in width, and extending m .
Mr. Dunbar plans going to it to-morrow and cruising
on it in our skin boat. This is the baidera received at
St. Michael's, which was originally forty feet long, but
we have cut it down to about twenty-five feet, making^
it more portable, and when not in use easily hoisted
under our cutter.

July 15th, lliursday. — Mr. Dunbar started out this
morning, but soon returned, having found the lead of
yesterday all closed up. Thus do things change in thi.s
part of the world. We made the discovery this morn-
ing that the ship had come up one inch forward, and
gone down an inch aft, caused probably by the c'lcra-
dling underlying ice having melted sufficiently to
change the point of support farther forward. It will
give us something to watch from day to day.

The forenoon gave us very fine weather. At noon T
got the latitude, showing, 1 am sorry to say, a small

A I'llOZKN SUMMKR.

403

•southing. At two o'clock the sky hecaino overcaHt. and
from that tiiiu' to nii(h»ight we had rain, mist, and thick
fog. Althoiiy-h no material change occurred in the
temperature (at mi(hiight it was o2^), the sensation of
cold was increased about 100 per cent. The mist, fog,
and rain seemed to penetrate to one's luarrow in the
most aggravating manner, and reminded him forcibly
of the warmer times we have been accustomed to at
home, where no doubt this afternoon our friends have
been suffering from heat and sighing for ice and the
shade.

And thus, with our routine of eating, drinking, and
sleeping, hourly weather observations, and the work of
the ship, the day comes to an end, and, in the language
of Mr. Wilfer, we can exclaim, '* Another one of them

^one.

Juli/ Hjlh, Friday. — Our ol)scrvationH to-day show
a drift since the 14th of nine miles to S. 43" E. Rather
discouraging as to direction, but hopeful as showing a
loose condition of the ice, which admits of our readily
moving in compliance with the wind. The open water
{L e. a crack in the ice), one and a half miles S. E. of
the ship, has widened somewhat, and beyond it the ice
seems broken np in large blocks, though from their
uneven surfaces wo cannot tell for how great a distance
this broken condition extends.

While Mr. Dunbar and Alexoy were out to-day, the
latter shot a seal, and apparently killed it, as it lay
stretched out on the ice. It was, however, only stunned,
for, as Alexey approached it, it made for the water.
Quickening his steps he reached it in time to grab it
by the hind flipper, in an effort to hold it. But Mr.
Seal was too sharp for Alexey, and managed to wriggle
out of his grasp.

, I

!■

■ w^ wi n w . ^|^, . . H »~»- ..^^ ^ K**^ ^^^*. m *,..nm -tH»'^> ^p^ m*^-m »r ^'^'*«*-.*W *» dl^J»- m*'- »m W''W»y<^aft,rf>w»->tt>r»y>*.«gt'-^..^«,^ titf^*.*.'^^

r 1

404

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

Tliis seems to be the time for shedding the coat, as
all our captures are made while the seal is out of water,
getting rid of his old coat by friction on the ice. But
they are rare in this neighborhood, for some reason or
other. Had the spruce (?) log brought in which Ave
found the other day.

Jifli/ i'th, Sdtnrdaij. — A <\i\\ of not much interest.
Much fog, mist, and rain prevailed, and during the af-
ternoon snow fell. This is a nice showing for the ITtli
day of July, indeed. So slack does the ice seem, that
a shift of wind is imraediately noticeable in our change
of drift.

Jtihj ISt/t, Sum/fif/. — Another week has come- and
gone, and here we are yet held in l»ondagc. This kind
of life is most discouraging. If we were only drifting
toward our goal, we would be somewhat content ; but
alas I we are steadilv drifting awav from it: or, if in
our enforced idleness we were accomplishing anything
for the good of science or human nature, it would be a
comfort. — but ins'^ead of either we are simply burning
coal to cook food to consume day after day. Over ten
months of this imprisonment have we had, and in fact
were it not that a certain indefinable, and I confess in-
explicable something, keeps telling me all will come
out right yet, I could hardly assign any reason why it
should not last any multiple of ten months more. Cur-
rents there are none, except such as are created locally
and temporarily by a wind. 8ee-saw, see-saw N. W.
with a S. E. wind, and then S. E. wiili a X. AV. wind,
and the same result with any other two succeeding
winds. The .-surface water shows no hicrease of tem-
j;:rature that is not due to the air, and the bottom
water has a temperature of oO\ Inspected the ship
and read divine service, thus, us it were, nuiking the

the coiit. a.s
)ut of water,
le ice. But
ne reason or
11 which we

iicli interest.
I ring the af-
for the 17th
e seem, that
. our change

s coni.c- and
This kind
)nlj drifting
ontent ; but
t : or, if in
ig anvthino-
would be a
ilv buriiinor
Over ten
md in fact
confess in-
will come
ison why it
lore. Cur-
ited locally
s'.iw N. W.
AV. wind,
succeedinu'
se of teni-
he bottom
1 the ship
laking the

A FItOZEN SUMMER.

405

mark that distinguishes Sunday from other days in this
part of the world as well as in other ])arts.

Ji(l)/ VJfh, Moudaij. — I cannot help thinking, as I
tiUTi over a new leaf and commence a fresh page, that
I am wasting stationery in keeping a daily record of so
unimportant matter as our daily life. Each night 1 am
forced to admit that another day of our short season
is slipping away without any result worthy of the spirit
which conceived, and the enterprise which carried into
effect, this present Arctic expeditio;.. And the realiza-
tion of our utter impotence to change otn fate in any
way makes such an admission doubly disagreeal)le. A
bear in a trap, a bird in a cage, a ship in the ice, are
alike held in bondage sliari) and ualling.

Of late, when one is tempted to feel blue, the sun,
which, under ordinary circumstances, induces cheerful-
ness, v.ither adds to our disgust. For as that luminary
provides means of determining (.ur position, we are in-
formed on each occasion how far we have gone back-
wards; or, in other words, how much nearer we are to
the South Pole and how much faither from the North
Pole. To-day, for example, we get observations for tlie
first time since the IGtli, and find we have l)een drift-
ing, in these three days past, thirteen and four tenths
miles to S. cS" W. And this, despite the fact that we
have been having W. and N. W. winds. Job is re-
corded to have had many trials and tribvdations which
he bore with wonderful patience ; Init so far as is
known he was never caught in pack ice and drifted S.
and W. with W. winds.

Hoping to see something consoling. I tooiv a team of
dogs out to-day to the S. E., to the open lane of water;
and after havi'.ig been run away with twice and brought
back to the ship by the dogs, 1 was forced to secure

■

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*»t"^nt^»*-»ii:i4t^-iJ3.iam..Vmtiiii.

•r

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406

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

the services of Alexey to get me to my destination.
A white man inspires no fear among these animals.
Reaching the open water I found it was about one
fourth of a mile in width, enough to handle a vessel in
under steam, but made a circle around the ship irreg-
ularly. I am satisfied that nearly all the ice in our
neighborhood is of this last winter's formation, having
frozen over the small lake into which we were squeezed
out from among the heavy ice on November 25th last.
The borders of our island are formed of ice of great
thickness, perhaps forty feet thick, whose surfaces are
about three feet above the level of the water. The ice
which immediately surrounds us has an average thick-
ness of say live feet, except where crowding, as for
instance under our bows, has caused one layer to ride
over or under another, making a thickness of ten or
fifteen feet.

Owing to decay, the cradle of ice holding the ship
is becoming speci(ically lighter, and buoying us up ;
for to-day the water-level stands at seven feet four
inches forward, and eleven feet eight and a fourth
inches aft. We are also slowly increasing our heel
to starboard, it being now 0-2°.

July 20fh, Tuesday. — A day of no importance what-
ever. Dl ring to learn something of the character of
the ice at the l)orders of our island, 1 started at one
p. M., accompanied by Melville and Dunbar and a heavy
dog team. Going out to southeast, we got around to
west in about two hours and a half ; but as the sledg-
ing was in some i)laces very bad over broken ice,
the time was much longer than the actual distance
would have required if on a level. The character of
the ice is as indicated in yesterday's record, — one
season's ice near the ship, and old and very heavy ice

A FROZEN SUMMER.

407

lestination.
animals,
about one
a vessel in
ship irreg-
ice in our
on, having
e squeezed
25th last.
e of great
irfaces are
. The ice
age thiclv-
ng, as for
^er to ride
of ten or

f the ship

^ us up ;

feet four

a fourth

our heel

nee what-

aracter of

d at one

1 a heavy

I round to

le sledg-

tkon ice,

distance

racter of

d, — one

eavy ico

on the borders. Excepting a very narrow lead at west
going a short distance to north, I saw no way of get-
ting out of this neighborhood, even if we were atloat
and at liberty to move. As far as our floating is con-
cerned, that must be left to time. To-day the water-
level is at seven feet four inches forward, and eleven
feet nine and one half inches aft, and our heel 62° to
starboard.

Gloomy, disagreeable weather. Surely we must be
having a backward summer to have such a state of af-
fairs at this date. As an addition to our trophies, a
branch of birch and the skull of a codfish were brought
in to-day.

Jdit/ 21st, Wednesday. — Temperature between SI""
and 34", making one feel cold to the marrow of the
bones. I can safely say that 1 did not feel one half as
uncomfortable during the winter, with a temperature of
minus 80", as I do now at a temperature of plus 30".
The first was a hard, dry cold, which seemed to strike
but glance off. while the last is a soft, wet cold that
penetrates at once.

Jiuii 22(?, TIntrsdrii/. — This afternoon I started out
with Melville, Dunbar, Aneguin, and a dog team, to see
some more of our ice-island. I succeeded, however, in
getting around from west to north only, the traveling
being very rough Iiicleed. Arriving at north, I foinid
the lane of water closing up, the five foot (one sea-
son's) ice piling up in huge slabs on some very old and
heavy ice. The sight and the sound quite carried me
back to our experience during the winter. As the soft
state of the surfaces rendered impossible the higli
scream which we .ised to listen to, there was not much
of the terror inspired ; but one could not help being
impressed with the tremendous force with which these

j ;:,

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I.-*

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^'1

l-i! ^

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I

408

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTi:.

blocks were crujshed along, reared up, and tumbled over,
and the .silent "-rinning '' sur<>'e " with which the force
continued when one Avould suppose it counteracted and
ended. Here 1 was ready to turn l)ack, having -been
out three hours, and being wet through from wading
and being di'agged through ponds too wide to go
around without inunensely increasing the distance.

A truly wretched day, — squally, rainy, snowy, and
Avhat not. At six A. m. Cliipp required seven letters to
record the state of the weather, — o. c. m. (|. p. r. s.,
— which shows it must have been somewhat mixed.

The surface of the water stands to-day seven feet two
and three fourths inches forward, and eleven feet eleven
and three fourths inches aft, the ship slowly coming up
forward and settling down aft. A careful calculation
shows that this gradual settling is increasing the leak
slightly, tor we now require 317 strokes of the pump in
twenty-four hours against 1^40 a week ago ; but as both
amounts are very trivial they are not worthy of serious
attention. Our windmill stands ready for work when-
ever there is any occasion for it.

Juhj 23^7, Fr'uhnj. — Fog and mist and a little snow.
Are we to have no summer at all ?

JuJil "l-itli, Saiurduy. — h. day as uninteresting as
yesterday, and it seems a waste of ink and paper to
mention it. A little rain, a little snow, and general dis-
comfort. And worse than all, but one more month re-
mains of an Arctic season, and here we are held as if
in a vise.

July 2k)th, Sunday. — One week more of sunnner has
passed and gone, and we seem nearer to another winter
than to any successful result. Eegularly as clock-work
we perform the same duties day after day, finding each
morning the same surroundings we had the day before.

A FROZEN SUMMER.

409

The monotony of doing nothing but waiting, waiting, is
very trying. 11" we only had hind in sight anywhere, 1
think we wouUl risk a journey to it. Divine serviee
followed inspection, as is usual on Sundays. Seal at
dinner, with macaroni, tomatoes, etc., etc., as per bill
of fare, and a glass of sherry with our corn starch pud-
ding. As far as food goes we are in luxury.

Got to-day our first oogook (Phoca harhafa —
hearded seed), shot by Aneguin. She was eight feet
long, and while her llesh is valuable for dog food her
skin will make boot soles.

Jidi/ 2(jth, Monday. — An unfortunate accident oc-
curred to-day. Alexey had been out shooting, and
brought back for examination a Remington cartridge,
which had failed to explode in his rifle. Sitting down
quietly, without any one noticing what he was about, he
placed the cartridge between the thumb and finger of
his left hand while he picked away at the fulminate cap
with his knife in his right hand. Suddenly the cartridge
exploded, and without detaching the bullet the shell
Hew out into ragged edges, which cut Alexey's left hand
sadly, besides badly burning it with the powder. He
was at once a much demoralized native, the shock af-
fecting him considerably. The doctor, of course, at
once took hold of the patient, and nothing serious is to
be anticipated, beyond deprivation of his services for
some days. The chances are that Alexey will be more
respectful in his dealings with ammunition.

Generally sjjeaking, the day was as gloomy as its
predecessors. An almost steady fall of light snow until
nine A. m., and this is the height of summer !

Some day or other some one, myself perhaps, looking
over these pages will complain of their sameness and
lack of interest. The popular idea is, no doubt, that

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410

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

the record of daily lite in the Arctic regions should be
vivid, exciting, and full of hair-breadth escapes, or en-
joyable and profitable because of the acquisition of valu-
able information. If the popular idea is the correct one,
how dull and weary and unprofitable will the record of
our cruise have been ! I confess to so much disappoint-
ment and mortification that I am ashamed each day to
make an entry in this book, and willingly defer it to the
last moments before going to bed. What can I say that
has not already been said over and over again ? Here
we are, held fast in the ice, drifting south instead of
north, powerless to change our movement an inch, hop-
ing to-day that to-morrow will bring a change; realizing
to-morrow, when it becomes *• lo-day," that it is the
same as yesterday was; seeing a summer (?) slip by
without doing anything to retrieve our reputation or
make us worthy of being numbered in the list of Arctic
expeditions ; full of hefdth and energy, with zeal to
dare anything, and yet like captives behind bars : add
all these together, as making up the sum of one's sen-
sations and experiences, and it will be seen that the
surroundings are hardly favorable to glowing narrative
or absorbing tale.

So thoroughly do we feel that we are accomplishing
nothing, that some of us think that the food we eat and
the coal burned to cook it are utter and absolute waste.
Of what avail arc health and energy if we can make no
use of them ? In the world we are not judged by what
we can do, but by wliiit we actually perform. In the
case of an Arctic expedition, judgment is passed on re-
sults and not on the zeal or intention. A ship having
the North Pole for an objective point must get to the
Pole, otherwise her best efforts are a failure. No mat-
ter what the difficulties, or troubles, or accidents, the

- - n i '-«• -.

A FIJOZKN SUMMER.

411

failure to do the specified thing stands out in bold let-
ters. So with us. Wc started for the Pole ; we are be-
set in the pack in 71^ plus; we drift northwest; our
ship is injured, and we have to bur>n coal to save lier ;
we drift back southeast; we are passing our second sum-
mer more unprolitably than our first, for then we were
moving. No matter how much we have endured, no
nuitter how often we have been in jeopardy, no matter
that we bring the ship and ourselves back to our start-
ing-point, no matter if we were absent ten years in-
stead of one. — we have failed, inasmuch as we did not
reach the Pok;; and we and our narratives together are
thrown into the world's dreary waste-basket, and re-
called and remembered only to be vilified or ridiculed.

And yet I woidd not wish to be understood as imply-
ing we have given up the light. We look for to-mor-
row with just the same faith and with as great expec-
tations as we did on the 1st of June. But we do not
spend to-day in idleness for all that. A full meteoro-
logical record is kept, soundings are taken, the dredge
is hauled, specific gravities and sea temperatures are
taken, astronomical observations made and positions
computed, dip and declination of the needle observed
and recorded, experiments made with ice and snow and
surface water, birds shot and skinned, seals hunted,
mechanics employed, ship's routine carried out, etc. ;
everything we can do is done as faithfully, as strictly,
as nuithematically as if we were at the Pole itself, or the
lives of millions depended on our adherence to routine.
Not a word is said about going back. O^r <sionalIy a
trip is proposed somewhere, — to Paris, to Naples, to the
West Indies, — to come off " one of these days when we
get back." We go on with the regularity of a man-
of-war in port. We look upon this place — the pack

(

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412

THK VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

— as a kind of Key West or Aspinwall, tliiU as a hoe
and dreary to stay in, but bound to come in sometimes '
in a three years' cruise in those neighborhoods. And
Jack's philosophy, '• It is all in a cruise, boys ; the more
days the more dollars," comes in well a])ropos.

Jul// 2~th, Taemdai/. — P^xcellent observations to-day
show us a drift of one mile south since yesterday.
Light snow falls nearly all day, and the temperature
rises from 2G^ to 30^ ! Ye gods, ye gods !

Jii/>/ "l^fh, Wednesday. — A gloomy, disagreeable day,
and a mile further south than yesterday.

Jiihj 2*Jth, Tlmrsduy. — To-day becomes memorable
as showing that wc are again at the 180th meridian.
Since the 27th we have drifted seventeen and two
tenths miles to N. 84" E.

As I did not change our date when we passed to the
westward of the 18Uth meridian on the oth of Maj-, no
confusion of dates now occurs, although we were longer
in getting to the eastward again than I had anticipated.
I am glad that I did not change the date, for were we
to vibrate from one side to the other an endless per-
plexity Avould follow any attempt to settle upon any
particular date for an occurrence. Our great drift
seems to show that the ice is slacker to the eastward
of us than to the northward, for though in obedience to
a strong S. and S. S. W. wind we should have gone N.
or N. N. E., we have in reality gone E. and a half N.
What is in store for us it is impossible to anticipate.
If wc have not had our summer yet, we may hope to
do something next month. If our summer has come
and gone, then, alas, our chances are slim. If one could
see into the future how much anxiety might be spared
in the present. It is very hard to realize that all our
hopes and expectations should result in a weary drift

A FllOZEN SUMMEK.

413

of two winters in the ice-pack, and it is difficult for a
vivid inuig'ination to see anything else if this be the
wannest weather we can have this year.

Mr. Dunbar, whose duties as ice-pilot are limited to
<Jaily visits to the crow's-nest for a look at our sin--
I'oundings, discovered this afternoon that a crack had
occurred in the ice about half a mile north of us. and
extending for a short distance east and west. Going
out to examine he found it about lifty yards in extent,
it being merely a separation of the old and heavy last
winter's ice which surrounds us.

JhIij oi)th, Friddy. — Our stiff breeze still continues.
So melancholy has been our proceeding during the last
two months that we welcome any change of direction
a.s an improvement. "We know that we could make
nothing going N. W., and we hope we may do some-
thing going E. or N. E.

July "dlst. SaiiO'dai/. — The last day of the week, the
last day of the month, and this page can end together.
If this month is a sample of July weather here gener-
ally, I do not want to see any more of it.

August l.st, Sunday. — The new month cannot ])e
said to open cheerfully, for we have our customary
snow, rain, fog, and mist, with an overcast sky all day.
At midnight we have the cheerful spectacle of salt-wa-
ter freezing on the 1st of August. On the lirst Sun-
day of the month, of course, we had the usual Articles
of War and general muster. Inspection and church
followed.

To-day we lost one more of our dogs. " The Tease,"
I am sorry to say. Yesterday he ap])eared dull and
stupid, and swollen. Being given some jalnp he did
not respond to treatment, but, to quote Chipp, in his
account to Danenhower, '• calmly passed away breath-

If 1

■; A

414

THE voya(;e of tiik jeannette.

I i ;i

ing his last at throe p. m." As we are of an inqiiirin<]^
turn of mind a post-niortcm was held, Iversen aetini^
as coroner, and it was found that the dog's death was
caused by his swallowing a sharp bone, which cut
throuu;h his intestines.

AiKjiist 2(1, Momlajj. — We have taken a new depar-
ture. Our position to-day I find to be in hititude N.
73° 20', longitude W. 178° 36', showing that we have
drifted since July 2t)th N. 49° E. twenty-three and six
tenths miles, or nearly seven miles a day. Our new de-
parture consists in our starting off to the N. E., leaving
the old backward track and going to a new part of the
ocean. Though not exciting it has the air of novelty,
and may prove the beginning of what, please God, will
be a successful result to this hitherto valueless expedi-
tion ; it is so hard to drift about in this uncertainty,
while every day, nay, every hour, shortens an already
too short Arctic summer. Arctic summer! have we any
reason to speak of sunmier ? Our average temperature'
for June was 30°, and for July 33°, and our warmest
whole day thus far 38° (an ordinary cold winter day in
New York). What a scampering would take place at
Theodore Thomas' to-night if we exchanged tempera-
tures with them ! Four years ago to-day I was in Port
Royal, S. C, with the thermometer 90° in the shade.
What would I not give to have that temperature in
these regions for a month or two !

About 8.30 r. m. an opening occurred in the ice
about one quarter mile west of the ship, and extend-
ing for a short distance in a north and south direction,
and wide enough to steam the ship in.

Our humdrum existence is occasionally varied by
finding shells, pieces of sponge, or bits of wood on the
ice. These are being uncovered by the gradual melt-

A FKOZKN SUMMEU.

415

in^t; of the snow {iiul ico, and, of coui'so, we cannot say
liow lonji' tliev may have remained there or how they
came tliere originally. In the ahsencH} of Tacts, theories
are as varions as tliey are inconi^'ruons ; in the Arcti(!
Ocean shells may be ascribed to drift, to beinu' bron«ilit
lip from the bottom by turnln,n' Hoes, or to being- I'c-
jeeted by walruses in feeding. Any one will do to talk
about to (ill in an hour, of which, alas, we have too
nniny idle ones.

Aixjnsf o(L y'licsdrii/. — No observations were ])ossi-
ble to-day, for which 1 am very sorry, because 1 want
to trace our progress this month very minutely. A cu-
rious occurrence is worthy of mention. Between live
and eight r. >[. a strong odor of burning brush-wood
filled the air, and was noticed by everybody but myself,
who, having a cold in the head, had no sense of smell ;
from six to ten p. m. a decided haze was apparent, but
whether the ha/e and the odor of bmniing brush-wood
can be connected in any way or not renuiins to be in-
vestigated hereafter. Nothing seems to come of the
ice opening mentioned yesterday, and the ice in general
seems to be com])act again in all directions.

Aiujiist Ath, Wedne.sdai/. — One more day come and
gone, and nothing accomplished. This is becioming
gloomy, indeed. Are we never to get the ship free
again ? Hope deferred maketh the heart sick, and our
hope is surely deferred long enough. This is the month
in which I expected to do something, no matter how
little, and here we are, held as fast as we were in March.

August bth, Thursday. — Last night at midnight we
ended a meteorological year of hourly observations,
and, as a relief to all hands in making them, I ordered
hereafter three-hourly readings of the instruments in-
stead of hourly.

410

TIIK VOYAGE OF THK JEAXNKT'I'K.

■• f

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r\ 0'

AiKjvst {\f/t, Friday. — At lust I have good ohsorva-
tion.s,'an(l 1 find tlit' ship is in latitude N. 73' 21' 30",
and lon'^ntude W. 177' 14' 45". Sinee the 2d wo have
drifted twenty-four miles to N. 80' E., or six miles a
diiy ; 1 am disappointed, because I expected to find a
greater distance accomplished. We have had as nnich
wind in the past four days as we can expect during
mid-summer, and the conditions of ice loosening are,
one would suppose, at their most favorable point. It
seems a certainty, therefore, that there i.s no expanse of
open water east of as, and the ice is not slack enough
to afTord a passage. As day after day passes by, and
no chance offers to accomjdish anything, I feel my
heart sink. To have zeal and energy enough to dare
anything, and be held like a rat in a trap, seems the
irony of fate.

AiKjust \)th, Monday. — Observations place us in lat-
itude N. 73° 24' 32", longitude ^V. 176° 39' 15", a drift
of one and seven tenths miles N. 22° E. since yesterday.
We .--ound in thirty-nine fathoms, — and the leadline
shows no perceptible drift; we have therefore come
to a stand again, an.d unless something we know not of
-works in our favor, we shall proljaldy zigzag again
"without aim or result. I cannot find words in any lan-
guage which will express tbj sense of utter disappoint-
ment, shame, and mortification with which I am filled,
ia seeing a second sunnner fade away with nothing ac-
complished.

August 10th, Tuesday. — A gloomy, d'- tuevent-

ful day. Fog or rain all the time.

August 11th, Wednesday. — Apparently 'ur sit aition
is growing worse each day instead of better. W made
the unpleasant discovery to-day that the amount of the
leak is increasing; for during the last twenty -four

A 1MM)ZKN SUMMKll.

417

hours 1,21)5 strokes of the bilgo-pump were reciuired to
keep her tree, iind siuee July J'")tli, !;^-10 strokes [)er day
have heen sullicieut. 01" eourse there is a reason lor
this, but unfortunately we liave to guess at it. Meas-
luvineuts of the thickness of the ice at accessible places
8how a dinunution of one inch since July loth; and it
may so happen that the wasting away of that amount
of ice (whether at the top, and so causing it to lloat
higher, or at the botti^ni, and accomplishing the same
effect) has uncovered the damaged stem and presented
n freer i;ccess to the water. This is conjecture sim[)ly ;
the fact is the water, and must be dealt with. We
have the windmill for the present, and should we be
held here anotlKU' winter, we have, thank God, enough
coal to run a pump in the deck-house.

Ait(/ust 12th, Tlairxilatj. — Observations to-day show
a drift since the Uth of live and a half miles to S. o8°
E. The irony of fate! IIow long, Lord, how long?

AufjHst 1.3/A, Fridtti/. — Rainbow at ten p. m. Sun-
set at 10.20. This is the first time we have been able
to see the sun at this interesting event since he recom-
menced his for-a-time-suspended habit of going below
our horizon. Some little fog in the forenoon. These
fogs please me, for they cut away the ice amazingly.

Auf/Hst 14^/i, Saturday. — Our mild \veathor con-
tinues, and as the winds hold from the northward and
eastward, it must be occasioned by open water in that
direction. This is no better than a conjecture, of course ;
for remaining fast in one spot we can only guess what
may be the state of affairs fifty miles from us in any
direction. Inasmuch as the high temperature and N.
E. wind are accompanied by rain, fog, and mist, the
conjecture of open water is a reasonable one.

AiKjust Itjth, Sunday . — Our mild weather continues,

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418

rilE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

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tii|'(

(i-O

siml ,so does the log. It Is surprising to seo how this
latter cuts iiway the ice. The full sun of June 21st
did not do half the exjcution that to-day's fog accom-
plished. The ice seons actually to be rotting away.
The suvfaee is .soft and spongy, and fully honey-condjcd ;
and but for the fact that there remains ice varvinc
in thickness from two to twenty feet, there is no reason
why we hould not resume our voyage. The ship is
still held afiectionately by ico gripping her nearly down
to her keel, and by its attempt to rise, heeling her o\'er
75° to starboard. Here and there on either beam, hole.s
varying in size from one to six feet extend down
through the ico, and at a distance of one half mile on
the starboard beam, and one mile on the port beam,
there is a narrow lane of water (starboard with a W.
wind, port with an E. Avind, neither with any other),
which serves to make our immediate vicinity an island ;
so that if we could get to this lane we might have the
pleasure of sailing around a circle, were we not raean-
wiiile crushed by the ice coming together, for beyond
the lane in any direction is ice of the cheerful and
consoling thickness of twenty to forty feet. Inspected
ship at ten A. m., and had divine service afterwards.
Sounded in thirty-nine and a half fathoms, a marked
drift to N, E. being indicated by the lead line. A cu-
rious fact, because we have had light breezes from
northward and eastward all day, and this shows a drift
to windward. Between ten and eleven p. m. had some
heavy passing showers. At midnight a remarkably
heavy water-sky showed itself to the southward.

August l(}(h, 3Iondaij. — Foggy and misty weather
continues unchanged. Sweetman commenced altering
the frames and stanchions of the deck-house, to carry
out my plan of improving its arrangement next wintci",

A FllOZEN Sl'MMKU.

410

e how this

Juno 2Lst
log accoin-
tiiig away,
iy-combed ;
oe vai'viiisi:
^ no reason
-Mie «liip i.s
jarly down
ig her o\'er
)eam, holen
:end down
[df nnle on
port beam,

wilh a W.
my other),

an island ;
it have tlie

not moan-
for beyond

eerful and
Inspected

ifterwards.

a marked
me. A cu-

ezes from
uws a drift
had some
markabiy

ird.

y weather

id altering

e, to carry

}xt winter,

by beginning it at the bows, and so covering the spar
deck over the entire berth deck.

August \1th, Tuesday. — And so day by day our glo-
rious sunnner is passing away, and we are accomplish-
ing nothing. It is painful beyond expression to go
around the ice in the moriiing iind S^e no change since
the night before, and to look the last thiny; at ni'dit
at the same thing we saw in the morning ; and this has
continued nearlv a year already, and may continue — ?
To start out full of zeal and energy, and to receive a
stunning blow at the first step, is somewhat demoraliz-
ing. If we could only do something. Like Ilandct, I
can say, '• Wouldst drink up eisil ? eat a crocodile ? 1 '11
do it " — And so I would, if by so doing I could change
our position to one of usefulness. High as our temper-
ature is (34''), foggy weather a daily occurrence, the
most favorable occasions for getting rid of ice, exce})t
frequent and varying gales of wind to break it up and
make o])enings. and yet here we are hard and fast, with
ponds here and there two or three feet dee]), with an
occasional hole through to the sea. Is this always a
dead sea ? Does the ice never find an outlet ? Surely
it must go somewhere; for as the thaw in threo months
by n6 means equals the growth in nine mouths, it would
require but a few years to make this a solid nuiss. and
so take up this Arctic Ocean entirely. It does not get
out through Behring Strait, for all ice met in IJeliriug
Sea, or nearly all, is the formation of that locality. It
has no regular set in any direction, north, east, or ^\•est,
as far as 1 can iudii-e, but slowly suru'es in oh' dience to
wind pressure, and grinds back again to an e((uilibriuui
when the pressure ceases. Are there no tides in this

^ j

I f '

' >l)

!
if

ocean

Drifting about as we are, no tidal measurements are

; ■

420

THE VOYAGE OF THE .TEANNETTi:.

IIP

I ; \-

possible. When last fall and winter we had our great-
est pressures at new and full moon, their regular recur-
rence seemed to indicate that tidal action existed, but
now the moon has no effect whatever. Full moon or
new moon, last quarter or first quarter, the ice is as im-
movable as a rock. We are, of course, further north
now than we were last winter, and may have got be-
yond the Siberian tides, while still south of the tides
mentioned further north as ebbing and flowing through
McCIure Strait. In case this is so we should be in a
dead space, and might, like Franklin's ships, never get
any further. But wdiat is there to the northward of
us ? It is hard to believe that an impenetrable barrier
of ice exists clear up to the Pole, and yet as far as we
have gone we have not seen one speck of land north
of Herald Island.

Our water temperatures and soundings taken daily
give no encouragement ; tiie surface has generally a
temperature of 34°, due, of course, to its exposure to
the sun and retention for a long time of the heat im-
parted. Two fathoms below the surface the tempera-
ture is 31°, and at the bottom 30°. At a temperature
of 75° above the freezing point of salt-water, the lower
ice cannot melt rapidly. On the surface, the sun's rays,
or the cutting fog, or the warmer water at the edges,
make a wasted and rotten material ; but under water
the ice has the same flinty hardness it had during mid-
winter. And it is of such irregular and varying thick-
ness that no idea can be formed of its age or origin. We
know that last November, when we were squeezed out
of the heavy ice into our present location, we were in
open water, — a lake, so to speak. By careful meas-
luement we know that ice formed on this lake to a
thickness of five feet four inches by February 4th. Then

A FROZEN SUMMER.

421

)ur great-
Inr recLir-
isted, but
moon or
I is as im-
ler north
) got be-
the titles
; through
1 be in a
lever get
bward of
e barrier
:ar as we
ad north

en daily
lerally a
osure to
lieat im-
:empera-
perature
lie lower
n's rays,
e edges,
3r water
ng mid-
^^ thick-
:in. We
ized out
were in
.1 meas-
kc to a
. Then

its thicknes^s could no longer be accurately measured,
because of under-riding floes ; but it is reasonable to
s ippose that it got a thickness- of seven feet. On
the loth July that ice was five feet in thickness ; to-
day it is three feet five inches thick. Either we have
liad our summer, or are yet to have it, which latter
sounds ctbsurd on this 18th day of Aii^gust. If the for-
mer surmise is correct, three feet seven indies may be
taken as the thaw of one summer, and the remaining
three feat five inches will form a basis for next win-
ter. Already our little ponds have frozen over during
the night,, and remain frozen until noon of the next
day. Thus much being said of ice which we have
seen grow around us, how are we to discuss ice which
is twelve feet, twenty-two feet, twenty-four feet, thirty
feet, and forty feet in constant thickness ? We see ice
which has been piled up in confused masses twenty-four
feet above the surface of the water, and can but guess
at its thickness below. We drop a lead down to a pro-
jecting tongue twelve feet, and think we have the thick-
ness of that floe at all events ; but lo ! a little further
and we see another projecting tongue, or perhaps a
third, or when we get to twenty-two feet we cannot
obtain an up and down sounding by reason of surface
irregularity.

August 18th, Wednesday. — Another day of ice scen-
ery without any perceptible change in our surroundings.
A marvelous temperature ranging between 31° and 40°
makes me hope for some decent weather. To me to-
day the temperature has been sultry and at times op-
pressive, the generally pervading fog seeming to inten-
sify the effect of the heat. To our greni surprise we
get forty-four fathoms, with mud, gravel, and fine white
sand.

^'■'ii

,- if

>V '

422

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

Our sick-list liiid an increase to-day in the person of
II. II. Kaack, seaman. While passing along the berth
deok he fell, and striking his right arm against the cor-
ner of a hatch cover broke his elbow joint. The doctor
has the case \\^i\\ in hand, and anticipates no serious
result beyond being deprived of his services for some
time.

August Idfh, lliui'sday. — To-day the excitement was
the killing of a bear. Mr. Dunbar started out tliis morn-
ing innnediately after breakfast, and came back about
five p. M. with the news. During the afternoon, while
in company with Alexey, the latter called his attention
from a little distance by call or signal agreed upon, —
the note of a crow. Looking around. Dunbar saw, as he
says, ''the biggest bear he has ever seen, — a reguhu*
buster," — following in his tracks. He crouched down
at once to let Bruin con o up ; but as the bear got within
good range, say two hundred yards, of Alexey, before
he reached Dunbur, Alexey fired and dropped him. We
have learned up liere that it takes many bullets to kill a
bear, so no surprise was felt at seeing hiiu jump to his
feet and make oif, though pumping out blood through
a hole in his left side as he rmi. Fortunately for us,
he ran towards two men, Nindemann and Bartlett,
who fired and liuished him. Dogs were sent for the
carcass two miles east ( f the ship, and they brought in
a small bear six feet sis: and one hall' inches long, and
four feet seven inches in girth, thus showing the effect
of a sudden surprise on Mr. Dunbar. The body was
honored with a burial in the ice to keep it cool and
fresh, whether for our consumption or that of the dogs
will depend upon their necessities. They are now fed
about three times a week from the seal yard.

August 20th, Friday. — A day which can be disposed

A FliOZEN SUMMEU.

423

person of
tlio berth
: the eor-
:ie doctor

serious
lor some

iicnt was
lis morn-
ck about
Jii. wiiile
iittention
upon, —
iw, us he

1 rei^ular
ed down
)t within
Y, before
ini. We

to kill a
p to his
throui-'h
for us,
3artlett,
for the
)ught in
ng, and
le effect

)(

ly was

)ol and
le dogs
low fed

is])osed

of with but few words. Cloudy all day, except for a
short time in the afternoon, when the sun broke through
the clouds too late for a latitude and too early for a
time sight.

Awjutit 21.s/, Salfirddi/. — On pages 102 and 288 I have
dwelt at some lengtli on the nature of the water result-
ing from sea-water ice, and I shall add a word or two
here on that sul)ject before closing it. AThere can be no
doubt of the importance of this matter in reference to
the health of xVrctic expeditions, for no man can receive
continually or habitually as much salt in his system as
we lind contained in our ice without speedily becoming
scorbutic. Though previous expeditions have asserted
that they found and used ice sufHciently pure for con-
sumption when melted (and ice formed from the freez-
ing of salt water at that), it is a somewhat singular cir-
cu.mstance that the crews ]i(;caine victims to scorbutic
complaints. Dr. Walker mentions the circumstance of
the men of the Fox digging too deep into the re-fro/en
ponds of melted snow, and getting ice too salt for do-
mestic use.

Our experience this summer is as follows : On the
7th of July we succeeded in getting enough snow and
surface scrapings, that is, broken down ice crystals from
tops of hummocks, to fill our tank with water sulh-
ciently pure for our use, for the first time since last
fall. The steady glare and heat of the sun had melted
and honey-combed the mass, and allowed the salt here-
tofore contained to lilter through and deposit at the
bottom. (Not all of the saline ingredients had so de-
posited, for a very faint milky tinge would ai)|)ear in
the water when tested with nitrate of silver: but the
water was pronounced suHiciently jiure for drinking.)
This snow and surface crust were carefully scraped up,

'■1

' I

424

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

■ 1/

put in barrels, and brought to the ship, where a cupful
being molted from each barrel, a nitrate of silver test
was applied, and the barrel accepted or rejected as the
case might be. llegularly each morning was this ar-
rangement carried out, some live or six barrels accu-
mulating on the quarter-deck where the snow stood
and thawed to some extent. From these barrels our
supply was taken for melting in the galley for our uses.
This morning an unusual degree of saltness in the new
supply seemed to threaten our having got down to a
line of salt deposit ; and in the course of Dr. Ambler's
tests he dipped a cup of water from one of the snow
barrels, which had some days ago passed inspection,
and he found it too salt for use, although a cupful
of snow in that barrel being melted was found quite
pure. This curious result is worthy of notice. The
barrelful of snow standing in the sim had become soft
and honey-combed, and the small amount of salt had
dropped through with the drops of water and remained,
of course, with them, leaving the snow so much purer.
Of course it is impossible to say that the entire contents
of a barrel are of the same character as the specimen
cupful, some pure and some impure getting scraped up
together ; for it is plain that if the barrelful were no
different from the cupful, the melting of one would
give the same purity of water as the other. It is to be
remombcred, however, that the salter the water orig-
inally the lower the freezing point, and, consequently,
the melting point, hence the salter ice commences to
melt first and deposits its salt, which, falling into the
liquid, makes a concentrated solution which may be
unfit to drink, though the remaining .snow will yield a
potable material. Our method of examination and test
is the only practicable one. Properly each barrelful

A FROZEN SUMMER.

425

should be melted and the Avuter exjimined ; but this
would consume more fuel than any ship could spare,
and conse(iueutly it is out of the question.

The idea that I desire to iix is^ that sea-Avater ice,
under whatever circumstances it may be found, whether
of temperature of the air at time of freezing, or num-
ber of thaws and re-freezings, or age, or thickness, or
location, is a treacherous and unsafe element to use on
an Arctic expedition, as an internal application ; and no
matter how much care may be exercised in its exami-
nation and test, the chances are ninety-nine in a hun-
dred that sulHcient salt will be received into the system
by continued use to enfeeble it and prepare it for scor-
butic attacks under any unusual exposure or exertion,
even if its use does not produce scurvy alone and un-
aided. Having thus disposed of the salt question, about
two lines will describe to-day's arrival and departure.
A few hours' sunshine in spots, in early morning and at
three r. m., fog and mist thence till midnight.

Augia^l 22d, Swidaij, — The thirty-sixth anniversary
of my birth, and but for an episode in the afternoon it
might have passed .'iway without reference.

Of late I have each afternoon been accustomed to
take the dingy and scull around and through the little
streams of Avater that have formed in our surrounding-
floe, watching the wasting of the ice, and making out
in my own mind where a break may occur by connect-
ing the several holes wasted clear through to the deep
water. So narrow are these little streams, that in some
of them one has just room enough to use two oars and
row, and in many he is obliged to scull. So winding
and intricate are they, that I am reminded of the maze
at Hampton Court as presenting a parallel.

This afternoon 1 started oft" as usual alone, and had

' f

420

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

lowod and sculled imconcenicdly a mile or more, nl-
tlioii''h at no time more than five hundred yards from
the ship in a straight line. At this point 1 reached a
loui"' narrow lead which obli<ijed me to scull, and i"aciu<>-
aft, to use both hands, 1, of course, saw nothing ahead.
Thinking after a time that 1 must Ijc near a bend 1
looked over my shoulder, and to my astonishment
found my eyes resting on a bear not quite a hundred
feet off, and who, Judging by his looks, was quite as
astonished as 1 was. The relative situation was worthy
of a photograph. Here was a predicament. To run was
out of the question for me, for it would have been too
luieven a match had the road to the ship been a level
and clear one instead of across alternate ice and water,
which of course nuide it worse. There was no water ))e-
tween me and the bear, but I was jammed in a narrow
li'ad and he stood looking at mo. The water would
have made no dilference to him, though it would have
to me. Looking a bear out of countenance is ver\- ro-
mantic but not practicable, and I found the bear recov-
ei'ing from his astonishment and advancing toward mo.
1 then yelled, " On board ship there ! a bear ! a bear ! "
but got no answer. Bruin by this time was about fifty
feet from me, so close that 1 could see distinctly where
the siiort hair ended at the edge of his beautiful black
nose. Hearing my shout he stopped, and looked at me
wonderiugly. 1 again shouted, " On board ship there I"
and somebody answered, " Halloa." Mentally calculat-
ing my chances I again yelled, "A bear! a jjcar ! " and
at the same time I raised an oar to fend him olf" should
IJruin come to the boat. He stood still, however, and
looked as if he could not quite make me out. Just
then a string of men and doirs rushing around the
stern attracted his attention, and he gazed at them

A FROZEN SUM.MHI?.

427

until, judging they mennt him no good, ho turned and
ran, so fast that beloro the men and dogs could get on
his trail he was out of range.

Lesson for me : " Never go away from the ship with-
out a riile."

Usual Sunday inspection followed by divine service.

Anijuat 'I'Ml, Monifa//. — It is now ten days since I
have obtiiiued sights, and by a singular circumstance
they have been days of unusually high temperature ; I
say unusually high advisedly, because we have become
so accustomed to experience a temperature of o2 , or
under, that any excess is worthy of notice.

August 2\th, Tuesday. — But a short time since and
we were reveling in the enjoyment of a sun above the
horizon the whole twenty-four hours ; and to-night at
midnight a lantern was necessarv to read the anemom-
eter. The thermometers haviuy; bright metallic sur-
faces are easily read without artificial light. For about
two weeks we have had the cabin lamp lighted every
evening at nine o'clock, the dark and gloomy weather
we have had making it necessary. Alas, alas ! a sec-
ond winter before us and nothing done. Our daily
hunting parties are coming back empty-handed. Seals
enough are seen and shot, but they sink almost at once
and are lost. This is their season for shedding their
coats, a"^ J there seems to be a connectic i between that
episode and the fatness of the seal (or the thickness of
his blubber). Under ordinary circumstances a seal,
when shot, seems buoyant enough to float until his car-
cass can be reached by a kyack, or by traveling on a
cake of ice. But now the moment his skin is punc-
tured down he goes. To-day Chipp and Dunbar saw
four oogooks (or one oogook four times), but at too
long range for a shot.

■t

■V'

428

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

All reports sooin to ngroo in prononncing the ice in a
wasted and disintegrated condition, needing only a fresh
blow to send it into blocks and pieces. But by our ill
luck we are having only light airs from the northward
and a normal barometer.

August "l^itJi, WedncsiUiji. — A day of considerable
interest, from the occupation in which we were en-
gaged, and of great satisfaction from the results ob-
tained. I have long been anxious to have a sight of
our propeller, to know w! at injury it sustained during
our numerous ice-squeezes and jams. Although 1 some-
times regretted not having triced it up last fall, upon
becoming fixed in our icy surroundings, I could not
help feeling during the crises of the winter, particu-
larly on the memorable 19tli of January, that its being
down added greatly to the support of the rudder-post,
and perhaps prevented its (the rudder-post's) destruc-
tion, and incidentally a crippling of the ship. An in-
jury to the screw-blades we could endure, because we
had spare ones to take their places, although if the
blades were much bent or twisted, we should perhaps
be unable to get them up to replace them by others.
The ice surrounding the ship's stern had a thickness of
nine feet in some places, and its surface was about two
feet under water. Sawing it, therefore, seemed a her-
culean job, while blasting it with torpedoes might in-
jure the ship. However, I determineil to try sawing,
and Chipp, with the tripod on the starboard side, and
standing in the water to his knees, directed operations,
while Nindemann, on the port side, similarly immersed,
attended to that portion of it.

Suspending an anchor weighing about eighty pounds
to the bottom of the saw, a rope was attached to the
upper end, led through a block at the tripod head, and

A FllOZEN SUMMER.

429

then over the rail on board, where it was manned l)y
some hands, while Cliipp, with two men, pointed and
guided the saw by means of a bar in the saw's upper
end. Durinj^ the forenoon the small sawing, [)icking,
and chiseling were done on the port side, where a num-
ber of small holes were connected ; and in the after-
noon both sides were worked at. As soon as the tripod
got near the ship the fall was led through a block on the
inainyard, and the sawing proceeded with ^ood speed,

lice 3 feet
^•umler watcrUi

A. Souii'liiit,' hole.

B. Ice (en feet thick.

C. Tvipoil for siivvhif? ice.

D. Holes throii;;h the ice conncetecJ by small saws, picks, and chisels.
E riiico where line ln'oUe in two,

(FVomoiiettA ii/ Caft. De Lonx.)

although laborious and trying to the men standing in
the water guiding the saw. By 2.30 p. m. the saw had
nearly reached the sounding hole, when, crash ! bump !
bump ! the floe broke into two large cakes which came
to the surface striking hard under our counter, and
rolled and swashed like two whales. While some of the
men got ice-claws, and with ropes dragged the cakes
away, others rove off the propeller-purchase, and Mel-
ville went below to get the blades vertical. Upon trying
to turn the shaft, he found that it would only go a little
way, and we began to fear the blades were so bent as

I'{

4:)0

TIIK VOYAdK OK Till: .IKAWKTI H.

to tiiko aj^ninst tlu; forward side of tlu' casing. When
wo eeasc'd stoaniiiig last fall, tlio blades wci-o loft u\y
and down, and in onr ico prossuros tlioy liud boon
tninod about ono eighth of a rovolntion. Fortunately
when tlK> ico was removed we could get the bwidos to a
hoisting mark, although they would not revolve. 80
we hove away, and to oiu- satisfaction up came the
screw, and to our e([ual surprise and di'light we found
it in ]H>rfect condition with not oven a scratch. It was,
however, as bright as new co[)per, looking as if it had
boon freshly scoured. With a view to learning what
the shaft's not turning was due to, I directed Melville
to turn the engines over while the screw was up, and
it was found impossible to get the shaft any further
around than before. Ice may have formed and lodged
in the sleeve of the dead-wood, and as this can be de-
termined by removing the packing from the stufling-
box, we shall probaiily know more about it to-morrow.
Lowered the screw again to its place, soon I hope again
to be employed in l)eating the water to drive us on to
the accomplishment of some worthy object. The con-
sequences to the ship by the removal of ice from under
the stern are logged by me as follows : —

'' The ship inmiodiately went down in the water aft seven
inches, and came np forward one half inch ; the water-level
being now at a height of seven feet two inches on the stem,
and tliirteen feet nine and a half inclios on the rudder-post.
The iieel is now 8}'^ to starboard, having been increased only
^° by the change of immersion. The ship is yet firmly held by
ice, which extends from the main ligging on the port side
around tlie bows, and to the after part of the fore rigging on
the starboard side, and which, where possible to measure, is
found to have a thickness of ten feet eleven inches. It prob-
ably extends under her keel, forming a ci-adle ; and though it
would perhaps be possible to haul the ship astern into a small

1 1

A FIIOZKN' SUM.MKIl.

431

pool of cleiir water, it i.s not iitti'inptcd for fear of iiifieasiii^
tlio, fiicility witli wliicli wutor ini^lit ciitcr tlirouj^li tlio daiii-
h^<m1 stem, and .so rccjuiic additional lal)or,()r «'ven stoain-pnnip-
in<^, to ket'p t\w. sliij) five?. W'itlioiit a siii;^lf lead of watt-r in
any din-etion .'iccessible to tli.- Hliip, licf hcin^r navigated is ini-
p()Hsil»le, and there would be notliing <;;ained l»y lii'r being
floated into a small lake."

Iminodiate oxaiiiination sliowod no cliange in tlu;
ninount of water comiiij^ into the .slii[), and as no water
could be found coming into the sui)posed leidc in the
shaft-alley, it is now believed that the water there was
caused by the melting of iee between the frames. And
80 this eventful day came to an end. Much work done
and .some pleasant knowledge gained.

Auyust 2(jth, Thursday. — A day of considerable ex-
citement occasioned by the advent of no less than four
bears, and our killing one of them. About 1.30 p. m.
Mr. Collins, while walking on the ice on the port side
of the ship, .saw a bear through the fog about one hun-
dred yards distant. Giving the alarm, off started the
dogs, immediately followed by Nindemann and Aneguin.
Bruin of cour.se turned and ran, and meeting a pond in
his way plunged into it. It happened, however, to be
inclosed, and before he could swim across it the dog.s
had encircled it and held him at bay, one of them, it is
said, biting his bear.ship on the nose whenever he at-
tempted to land. Aneguin and Nindemann coming up
Hred one and two shots respectively, Aneguin missing
and Nindemann hitting, and the prize was our own. Of
course we were all out there at once, and harpooning
the carcass, dragged it to the ice, and thence to the
burying-ground.

Hardly had the meat been buried, and our usual oc-
cupations resumed, than three more bears hove in sight,

I'f

432

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

this time on +lxe starboard quarter. Collecting quietly
on the poop we awaited, rifles in hand, their approaeli.
The party seeu.ed to consist of a mother and two
nearly full-gr< vn cubs. Our dogs were being led on
the port bow, and thus made no demonstration. Per-
fect silence reigne<l. Our past experience warning us
of the small eifect of a bidlet at long range, and the
ease with which a bear makes off when hit several
times, we decided to wait imtil the bears would come
no nearer, and then pour in a volley. Along the star-
board rail were range,d ten riHes in rest : tableau !

The mother led the van, the two cubs following.
Slowly and deliberately, head to wind, neck stretched
out like a cow's neck, nose describing graceful curves
in time with each step, Mrs. Bruin came along, falling
lazily into the water lanes when she met them, swim-
ming across slowly and reaching the shore, looking
back to encourage her children to cross the briny deep.
When the party reached a point which we considered
two hundred yards distant from the ship they paused,
and Mrs. Bear, seemingly distrustful of what she saw,
and her nose scented, turned as if to retreat. At this
moment, by preconcerted signal, we fired. Down tum-
bled the; big bear, and one of the little ones jerking up
a foot and shaking it seemed hit also. The cubs imme-
diately closed on the mother, and while the three were
in a heap the tiring continued until the smoke hid the
objects. At the first shot aw.'iy 'i'ent the dogs, followed,
when the firing ceased. l)y Duibar and Ericksen and
others. When the smoke cleared fiomewhat the three
bears were in full retreat, safe, if not badly hurt, be-
cause the dogs would not, and the men could not, cross
the water lanes through which the bears went without
hesitation. Jumping into the dingy, Chipp, the doc-

A FHOZEN SUMME!'.

433

tor, and myself ran and sculled '" across country,"
l)ut our game was out of sight, Dunbar and Ericksen
in chase. Going to the spot where the animals stood,
Ave found blood, and followed it ori two trails, so that
ve knew two of the l)ears were hit.

But we lost them. Dunbar and Ericksen kept on,
and managed to drop the heretofore uninjured cub, but
only for a moment. The many leads gave the bears
too great an advantage, and though the trail indicated
severe wounds, the chase might h<!ve coiiinued for
hours before any approach to an end would have oc-
c'.u'red. Dunbar tells me he noticed the great care
over and solicitude evinced b'y the mother for her
young. The cubs being wounded were more disposed
to stop than to go on ; but tlie i)ai-ent, though hurt her-
self, kept pushing them before hei, covering their re-
treat and nosing them into the water in front, before
she would leave the ice herself. It is too bad to hurt
or disable these creatures, and have tUem suft«,'- and
die pei'haps beyond our reach ; I)ut it is the fortune of
war, and as we try to kill when we shoot, we cannot
help it if we only wound. I am satisfied that unless at
very short ranges, or a vital part is hit, an ordinary
rifle bullet like a Remington or a Winchester is of no
use. An explosive bidlct ^required. Unless dogs can
surround a bear and hold him at bay, he may have
half a dozen bullet- in him and yet escape. Over or-
dinary ice the chase is too une([ual for a lai.i alone ;
over ice cut up by ponds and rivulets, as our neighbor-
hood is, a successful chase is a physical inipossibihty.
The water is too deep for a man to wade, and tlie dogs
will run a mile before they will cross three yards of
water. This, of course, gave us something to talk about

\ '

fp?

434

THE V()ya(;e of the jeannette.

during the afternoon and evening, and all the changes
on bears and bear-hunting were rung ad infinitum.

While the doctor and 1 were in chase we came to a
place on the trail where one ot" the bears seemed to
have sat down, for the snow was colored red for quite
a space. Examining more carefully, however, we saw
that it was " crimson snow," so-called ( infusoria}, about
which, as to whether of vegetable, marine, or cosmic
origin, so many diverse opinions are advanced). Crath-
ering some of it the doctor examined it with a micro-
scope, and he thinks it is pink-colored marine alga',
prol)ably a species of protococcus.

Lest I have not mentioned it heretofore, I mention
here that Mr. Collins discovered some magnetic parti-
cles (meteoric iron) in a lot of sand and gravel found
on the ice two miles to the eastward l>v Mr. Dunbar.

When not engaged in chasing bears, our men were
engaged to-day in sawing up and removing the ice
which we disj)laced around the stern yesterday. The
engineer's force was<'inployed in trying to get tho shaft
to revolve. Uncoiipb-d the engine from the line shaft,
and found that the engine could be moved readily,
f'oupled up again and removed the packing from the
stiiffing-box of the stern bearing until the \vat( ran
freely to the box. Then tri»- I to jack the engine and
shaft as cou]>l«d togeth***". but without much effect.
The 'ufficnlty seemed to In: in the stern-pipe or sleeve
(as we supposed yesterday), as tM^rc was a noise as of
grinding in the pipe, and su[)posing it to be occasioned
by ice, the stuffing-box was so arranged tt* to admit
during the night a small, steady stream oi water tx) aid
in thawing.

Auf/ust 2,7fh, Friday. — Anotiier day of fog — im-
penetrable as a wall. Temperature, maximiiiii 't't . iniii-

I-

A FROZEN SUMMER.

cio

iiiniin ol.T.° We continued to-day the work of cut-
tnig up and dragging away the pieces of broken Hoc,
liuishing it aljout five o'clock. All along our starboard
side, from the fore rigging aft, we have "■ open water,"
a hole extending diagonally across the ship's keel from
the starboard bow to the port quarter, and long enough
to lioat the ship in should she slip from her cradle. In
slueing a piece of fioe this afternoon, a tongue project-
ing under water struck the shi[)'s side abreast of my
room, and though the shock was not great, it caused
the ship to sjiake fore and aft, showing i^hat the ice foi--
ward is balancing her weight so nicely that but little
would Ijc necessary to shake her off. I think it is a
(juestion of only a few more Vlays' thaw and the Jean-
nette will slide into water again, and then we shall
know what kind of a leak she has.

ATelvilk' continued the work of trying to turn the
siiait again to-day, having allowed the water to run in
slowl}" last night thi'ough the stufHng-box of the steam
bearing, but little improvement was noticed. He there-
fore took out all the packing and let in a full head of
water. This did the work. All ice seemed to disap-
pear, and the engines, shaft, and screw conld be jackeil
to a charm. We |)acked the stufhng-box, and now ev-
erytliing collected with the machinery is in perfect
running order.

Au(/nf<f 'l><f/i. Sahirdatf. — By groat good fortune I
was abl to-day to get sights for a Hnnnier, wheri'by
I find the ship in latitude N. To' o7', longitude W. 177'
13'. and that is X. 42 W., twenty-four miles from our
position on the loth instant. How nuich we may have
zigzagged, or how much ground ,<he may have gone
over, we shall ne\''r know. It is some consolation to
know even where we are. A day generally of fog.
Curious! a rising barometer with a southerly wind.

J I

436

THE v()YA(;e of 'iiie jeannette.

Angxsf 20fh, Sunday. — Another week come and
gone, and here we are yet. 01" course it is for the best
that we are here, else it would not be the case ; but
oh ! how hard, and, in fact, hnpossible it is to draw
any consolation from it. Our situation seems un-
changed, and its continuance inevitable. Although I
have been buoyed np during the last two weeks by the
mildness of the temperature, and its probable wasting
effect on the ice, even that comfort is removed now by
a fall in the temperature early this morning, and the
appearance of young ice on the surface of our ponds
which did not disappear until near noon. Although
passing a second winter in the pack is not a pleasant
thing to contemplate, I do not think an officer or man
shrinks from it because of the danger to be incurred,
or the discomfort to be endured.

But we cannot help asking ourselves the question,
" Shall we be any more successful when it has passed ? "
Here we have been nearly a year drifting with the
ice to and fro, and we are about one hundred and forty
miles N. N. W. of where we started. Let us suppose a
year from now we are still one hundred and forty miles
north of our position to-day (latitude N. 73° 41', longi-
tude W. 177° 13'), or say N. 70^ 30'. We shall then be
800 miles from the Pole, and 500 miles from a Siberian
settlement, with a disabled ship, no fuel, and perhaps
as immovably jammed as now. Supposing our pro-
gress were in the same successive manner the next
year, and so on, in six additional years we should reach
the Pole. But what is the use of iiguring it up — a
man might as well attempt to demonstrate by mathe-
matical calculation the day of his death. Let us deal
with the present.

The long continuance of foggy, damp weather, and

A FROZEN SUMMER.

437

the extent to wliicli our men were ohl'ged to bo in the
water while siiwing ice, have led to the .iccuniulation of
a large quantity oi" wet clothes. In order to dry tlieui
I have ordered a fire on the berth deck, which, com-
mencing on Friday, (!ontinued yesterday and to-day.
This makes a sad expenditure of coal (145 pounds),
but it is necessary for health and comfort that people
should wear dry clothing. Sweetman continues his
work of altering the deck-house for our possi))le win-
ter's detention, and as he always makes a thorough
finidi of anything he undertakes, the altered house is
as much like a new one as possible. He is as invalu-
able a carpenter as he is desirable as a cheerful siiip-
mate, and I cannot be too loud in his praise. His
exertions, with those of Nindemann, down in the fore
peak on and after January 19th will nlwiiys remain in-
delibly fixed in my mind.

Inspection and divine service took place as usual on
Sundays. We soimded in thirty-seven fathoms, a drift
to N. N. E. being indicated by the lea'l line. Light
southerly breezes four miles an hour, freshened by u) id-
night to ten miles, and yet a temperatiu'e at one time
as low as 28.3° !

Have Behring Strait and the ocean south of us closed
thus early ? If so, by what accident shall we find water
north of us ? Fog, mist, and drizzling rain as usual, l)ut
I managed to get some fair sights, showing our position
obtained yesterday to be relialde.

The outlook from the crow's-nest is dreary enough.
Ice, ice, ice ! In the litile basin or valley in which we
are numerous rivulets and pond-holes may l)e seen ; but
beyond what was once our encircling mountain ridge
twenty to forty feet high, and now a ragged mass of
confused chunks, is a seemingly endless ice desert, with

, :

4o8

'1'!1E VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

SI black pool here and there, but no leads, no channels,
no ii veil lies ot" advance or retreat,

AtKjnst oOfh. Moaddy. — Our foggy weather seems
to be ready for a change, for at ten this evening the
fog rolled away from overhead, leaving a clear blue sky
with a bright moon, and at midnight Jupiter and Alde-
})aran were also in plain view, being the first time that
stars have been visible since last spring. As a thing to
be remembered in connection with the dispersing of the
fog, the temperature suddenly fell, and at midnight
stood at 20.4°, and this too with a S. P]. whid. It would
seem that the water is disappearing to the southward,
and a flock of phalaropes flying to the southward to-day
would seem to indicate that the water is disappearing
(if it ever existed) to the northward. What, then, is
there in store for us ?

Poor old Snuffy, having reached such a condition that
it would be a mercy to kill him. was shot to-day. For
some days his head had swollen to an awful size, and he
had wasted away to a shadow. T-i^ing on the ice, the
heat from his body had thawed away a hole, and he was
sinking" ijraduallv from view. No doubt, as far as his
usefuhiess was concerned, he might have been killed
months ago ; but I felt that even a dog was entitled
to his life as long as he could keep it in these unchari-
table regions. However, the poor brute is gone now.
His three companions. Prince, Tom, and Wolf, seemed
unable to comprehend his disappearance, for they gath-
ered around his old ice-hole in int[uiring anxiety. But
only for a time. The natural though iniserabU^ regard
for self soon drew them to other things. What ;i life
this is, when the shooting of a dog so impresses me that
1 give a dozen lines of my journal to its mentitni.

Our little lakes and rivulets were covered with ice at

A FllOZEN SUMMKK.

439

midnight, and a white frost was deposited on all instru-
ments at the observatory.

Au(jU)<t 31s<, TueMlay. — The last day of summer has
come and gone, and, so far as our release is concerned,
we are apparently no better off than we were on the
first day of summer. A cheerful fall of temperatnre
occurred during the night, and in consequence we find
ice three quarters of an inch thick over all our ponds
this morning. Three quarters of an inch does not seem
like much in the abstract, bnt it was more than we could
push, pull, or scull a boat through without cutting it
ahead with an ice-chisel, and Melville and I who tried
to do so are not the weakest of men. On the other
hand, we had a remarkably high temperature in the
middle of the day (35° to 37''), an almost cloudless sky,
— in fine, a heavenly state of weather for these re-

gions.

So bright was the sun that it was a pleasure to take
sights. Excellent observations place us in latitude 73°
46' N., lonai-itude 176° 48' 45" W., shovvinfir a drift since
the 29th of eight and one half miles to N. 53° E. The
magnetic variation is 22° 4' E. A reference to my drift-
table shows that we have drifted this month altogether
ninety-two and one half miles, and have made good
fifty and one half miles to N. 51° E. Of all months
in the year this month should give the slackest condi-
tion of the ice, and yet we have changed our position
but little.

As if additional evidence that summer is gone, the
aurora made its first reappearance after many days.
At 11.16 r. M. a faint, tremulous arch could be seen
passing from east through the zenith to west, and at
midnight pulsating curtain patches moved from west to
east, at an altitude of ab(tut 2(1' above (he southern

440 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

horizon. The moon, Mercury, Aldebaran, and one or
t\v(j other stars showed in the heavens after eleven
o'clock. The engineer's force shifted about eight tons
of coal from the starboard to the port side of the bun-
kers, in anticipation of our getting afloat and needing
" straightening up."

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