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yras Born at Mar ton hi the :N'or 1

■.'■I.

A t^EW. AUTHENTIC COLLECTION OP
CAPTAIN CO O K's

VOYAGES round the WORLD,

U N D t R T A K E N'?'

by Oi'der of bis prefent MAJESTY^

r o R ,
MAKING NEW DISCOVERIES, &c* &C.

His Firft. — Undertaken} and performed in the Endeavour, in Ae
Vears 1768, 1769, 1770, and 1771, for obferving the Tranfit of
Vcnus^ and making Dilcovcries ia the Southern Hemifphere, &c*

His Second. — In the Heroliitioti jfttd Adventure, in the Years 1772^
1773, i774» and 1775, for making further Difcoverits towardy
, the Soutli Pole, and round the World* ^ .'

His Third and Lafe.— tti tKe Refolutloft ?nd DifcovCry* td the|Hicifie
Ocean, in the Yeatrf ^77^* '777* >778. 17791 and I7$d, for
making new Oifcoveries in the NprthernJHeiiiifphere, fcti. Cota^
prehending the L^fe and Death of Captain Cook. Tcp^ther w|th
Captain Fumeaux*SlNarrative in the Adventure, dating the Sepa^r
ration of j^jBhips in the fecond 't^'^yage, during which PeiilH fe»
veral Qf,:||FPcopIe were defiroyed by £e Natives of Queen ^&ar-
lotte'flSoiind. I"

;.■■■;!-

■'A

•fMiiifal*'

IVrltten by fever al pritutpal Ojiiertt and other Gentlemen <u^o Jailed
J in fhe various SlApt,<*

M A N C H E

T £ Jt:

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Printed by G. SWINPELLS *ni Co. ttii^ |||f#
Priating«Office, Hanging* Bridge.

.-- " ^.

mmmmmmt

I;.

Capt. Cook's Voyages round the World,

BOO K Iv

e H A p I,;

^he departure of the Endeavour from Plymouth— Her.
paiTage to the iflaud of Madeira-— A defcription of its^
natural curiofities and trade — A particular account of'
Funchiale, the capital of Madeira-^Thc paffage from
Madeira toRiode Janeiro— An account of this capitaK
of the Portugucfe dominion^ in South America, and
of tlie circumjacent country— Incidents that happened
"while the Endeavour lay in the harbour of Rio d©^
Janeiro. '

THE Endeavour, a bark of three hundred and?
twenty tons, was appointed forCapt. Coble's
firfl voyage round the round, having on board
tjcn carriage and twelve fwivel guns. On Auguft xht
26th, 1768, we therefore got under fail, and took oiir
departure, from Plymouth. On the 2d of September
we faw land between Cape Finifterre, and Cape Orte^
gal, onthecoall of Gallicia, in Spain: and on the 12th
we difcovered Puerto Santo, and Madeira, and on the .
day following, moored in the ftream anchor in the roadi
of Funchiale., la heaving up the anchor, Mr. Weir,
the mailer's mate, wa^ unfortunately carried overboard*
and drowned.

Upon approaching the ifland of Madeira from the
fisa^ it appears ai;icceding beauti&Iy tbe fides of the

31493

4 Captain Cook's FIRST 'Voyage

hills being covered wi^h plantations of vines, which are
green when all kinds of herbage, except here and
there, ar^ burpt pp, which was the cafe at this time.

We continued on this ifland only five days, during
which time the feafon was the worfl: in the year for
fearching after natviral curiofities ; however, the two
gentlemen. Dr. Soland^r ^nd Mr, Ranks, puflied their
excurfions abopt three miles from the town, and col-
lefted a few plants ift flower, by the obliging attention
of Dr. Heberden, the chief phyfician. of the ifland, and
brother to Dr, Heherden of Loudon.

The inhabitants of Madeira have no other articles of
trad^ than wine, which is made by prefluig the juice
out in a fquare wooden veflfel. The fize of this is pro-
portioned to the quantity of wine; and the fcrvants,
iiaving taken ofF their ftoekings and jackets, get into,
i^, and with their elbows anui feet prefs out as much
of the juice as they can. .

, Natur^ has been v^ry liberal in her gifts to Madeira.
The inhabitants are bot without ingenuity, but they
want induflry* The foil is fo very rich, and there is
fuch a variety in the climate, that there is fcarccly any
article either of the neteflarics or luxuries of life,
which cannot probably be cultivated here. On the
hills, walnuts, chefnuts, and apples flourifli, almoit
•without culture. Pine-apples, mangoes, guanas, and
bananas, grow almoft fpontaneoufly in the town. They
^ave b^ef, mutton, and pork remarkably good, and the
f aptain took Come of the former on board for his own

^ Funchiale is lituate at the bottom of a biy, and
though it is exteniive in proportion to the refl: of thsi
{fland, it is but poorly buili, and the ftreets are narrow

Round the World.

and badly paved. The churches are fully>f «orna-
ments, with pictures and unages of faints. The in$r-
mary ^dfo is a good piece of architecture, and one of
the moft conftdcrable in this place. There arc many
high hills in this ifland ; Porto Raivo in particular is
near 5,100 feet high. To a certain height thefc hills
are covered with vines, above which arc numters, of
chcfnuts and pine trees ; and above thefe again whole
forefls of various' forts of trees. The number of in*
habitants in Madeira are computed to amount to about
10,000; and the cuftora-houfe duties produce to the
ymg of Portugal, a revenue of 20,000!. a year. The
furrency of the ifland is in Spanifh. . ' ' '

On the 1 9th of September we failed from Madeira,
and on the 21ft we faw the iflands called the Salvages,
porthward of the Canaries. The priocipal of thefe
was about five leagues to the fouth half w^ft. On
^he 23d the Peak of TcneriSe bore weft by fouth half
ibuth. The height of this mountain is 15,396 fecr^
\vhich is but 148 yards lefs than three miles.

On the yth of Oftobcr Mr. Banks went out in a *
boat, and caught what our-failors call a Portuguefc
jnan of war ; together with fevct-al Ihell fiihcs, which
are always found floating upon the water. , '.

On the 25th we ciroflcd the line with the ufkal centii.ijti.
monies ; and as provifions by this time began to gTow '
ihort, we rcijblved to put into the harbour of Rio da
Janeiro ; and on the 8th of November we faw the
coaft of Brazil, We flood off along fliore till the .
iath, having in view fucceffively Cape Thomas, and an
ifland juft without Cape Frio, and then made fail fe*
Rio de Janeiro on *the 1 3th in the morning.

■"*.■,.

Qn the 14th Capt. Cook went on fhore, ari^lfbtaiacd

leave

■piw

mmm

I ^■

iti

f5 Captain Cook's first Voyage

leave to fiurniih the fhip with provifions ; but .this per-
milfion was clogged with the conditions of employing
an inhabitant as a faftor, and of fending a foldier in
the Endeavour's boat every time Ihc came from Ihore
to the vciTel. To thefc uncivil terms the captain made
many objeftions ; but the Viceroy was determined to
infift on them, neither would he permit Mr. Banks and
Or, Solandejr to remain on fliore, nor fufFcr the former
to go up the country to collefV plants. Captain Cook
conceiving from thefe and other marks of jealoufy, that
the Viceroy thought they were come to trade, ufed all
his endeavours to convince him to the contrary ; and
acquainted him, that they were bouild to the South
Seas, to obferve the Tranfit of Venus over the diik of
the fun, an objeft of great confeqjuence to the improve-
ment of navigation ; but the Viceroy by his anfwer
fccmed ignorant of the phaenomenon, An officer was
now appointed to attend the captain, which order he
was defired to underdand as an intended compliment }
Jiowever, when he would have declined fuch a ceremo-
ny,' the viceroy vpry politely forced it upon him,

Dr, Solmder and Mr. Banks were not a little cha-
grined on hearing that they would not be permitted to
^l^p^c on fliore, and ftill more fo when they underftood
'that they were not even allowed to quit the (hip; for the
.^iccroy had ordered, that the captain only, with fuch
4tiFors as were required by their duty, fhould come on
ihore. However, they attempted to go on fhore, but
were flopped by the guard-boat; yet feveral of the
•crew, without the knowledge of the centinel, let them-
felves down by a rope from the cabin window into the
boat about midnight, and drove away with the tide, till
they were out of hearing. They afterwards landed on
an imfrequentcd pait of the country, and were treated
by the mhabitunts with great civility.
v' Captain

Round the World. f

Capt. Cook, tineafy with the reflriftioris of the Vi-
ceroy, remonftrated with him; but the latter would
return no other anfwcr, but that the king his mafter's
orders mufl be obeyed. The captain thus repulfed,
and much difple?fed, rcfolved to go no more on ihore,
rather than, whenever he did fo, to be treated as a
prifoner in his own boat ; for the officef who was fo
polite as to accompany him, conftantiy attended him,
both to and from (hore. Two memorials were now
drawn up and prefented to the viceroy, one written by
the captain and the other by Mr. Banks ; but the
anfwers returned were by no means fatisfaftory. Seve-
ral papers pafled between them and the viceroy to no
good purpofe ; from whence the captain thought it
neceffary in order to vindicate his own compliance, to
urge the viceroy to an aft of force in the execution of
his orders. For this purpofe he fent Lieut. Hicks with
a packet, giving him his orders not to admit of a guard
in his boat. As this gentleman was refolved to obey*
his captain*s commands, the officer of the guard boat
did not oppofe him by force, but acquainted the vU
ceroy with what had happened, on which the lieute-
nant was fent away with the packet unopened. When
returned, he found a guard of foldiers placed in the
boat, and infifte(i on their quitting it. Whereupon the
officer feized tue boat's crew, and conduced them un-
der an efeorc to prifon, and the lieutenant was fent
back to the Ihip guarded. When the captain was in*
formed of this tranfaftion, he wrote to the viceroy to
demand his boat and her crew, inclofing the memorial
which Mr. Hicks, his lieutenant had brought back.
Thefe papers he fent by a petty officer, to avoid conti*
nuiiig the difpute concerning the guard, which muft
have been kept up by a commiffioned officer. An an-
fwer was now propofed by the viceroy; but before this
could arrive, the long boat, which had four pipes of
rum on board, was driven to ihc windward, (the rope

breaking

Captain Cook's riRST Voyage

breaking that was tlirown from the fliip, together with
a fmall MS that was faftened to the boiU. Immediate
orders were given for manning the yaw^, which being
difpatched accordingly with proper directions, retiirncd,
and brought the people on board the next morning j
from whom Capt. Cook learned, that the long-boat hav-
ing filled with water, they had brought her to a grap-*
ling, and quitted hcrj and falling in with a reef of
fqcks on her return, they were forced to cut the faf-
tcnings of Mr. Banks's little boat, and fend her adrift*
The captain now difpatched another letter to his
excellency, wherein he informed him of the accident^
dcfircd he Wmild aflifl him with a boat to recover his
,own, and, at the fame time, renewed his demand of
the delivery of the pinnace and her crew. The viceroy
granted the requeft, but in his anfwer to the captain's
rcmoriftrance, fuggcfted forae doubts that he enter-
tained, whether the Endeavour was really ^ king'f
&ip,.and accufed the crew of fmuggling. Captain
Cook,- in his reply, fard, that he Was willhig to iheW
his comdiiiBon, adding, if any attempt fliould be made,
to carry on contraband trade, he ret^uefted his exccl-
IcBcy would order the offender to be taken into cuftody.
The difpute being thus terminated, Mr. Banks at-
tempted to elude the vigilance of the guard, which
he found means to do, and got fafe on Ihore on the
,iU>th in the morning. He took care to avoid the town

fd paifcd the day in the fields, where he could bcft
atify his curiofity. Mr. Banks found the country
|>cople hiclined to treat with him civilly, and was
invited to their habitations. But it was afterwaxds
heard, that fearch had been making for this gentleman
#hen abfcttt. He and Dr. Solander therefore rcfolved
to run no more rifques in going on ihore, while they
remained at this place*

On iht ift of December, having taken in water and

provifions,

RotJNDT HE World. 9

brovifions, v^c got, with leave from the viceroy, a
pilot on board ; but the wind prevented us from put-
ting to fca. A Spanifti p?cKet from Buenos Ayrcs,
bound for Spain, arriving the next day, the captain 6f
her with great politenefs offered to take our letters to
Europe. The favour was accepted, and captain Cook
delivered into his hands a packet for the fecretary of
the Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers that
had paffed between him and the viceroy, leaving the
duplicates with his excellency.

On the 5th we weighed anchor, and toWed down
the bay, but were ftopped at Santa Cruz, the principal
fortification, the order from the viceroy, to let us
pafs, by an unaccountable negligence, not having been
fent; fo that it was not till the 7th that we got undet*
fail. When we had palTed the fort the guard boat
left us, and our pilot was difcharged. Of the town
and neighbouring country we Ihall give the following
defcription.

Rio de Janeiro was probably fo called becaufe difco-
vered on the feflival of St. Januarius, from whence we
may fuppofe the river Januarius took its name, and alfo
the town, which is the capital of the Portuguefc in
America. This town is fituated on the weft fide of
the river, from which it is extended about three
quarters of a mile. The ground whereon it ftands is a
level plain. It is defended on the north fide by a hill,
that extends from the river, having a fmall plain, which
contains the fuburbs and the king's dock. The houfes in
general are of ftone, and two ftories high ; its circuit
is abont three miles ; and appears to be equal in fize
to the largeft country towns in England. The fti*^^
are ftraight and of a convenient breadth; and the prin-
cipal ftrcet is near 1 00 feet in width. The chur9acs
are richly ornamented, and there is more religibus
, B llparade

.1 -'ii^

■ *^t

•.4p '^

Captain Cook's first Voyage

parade in this place that any of the popifti countries in
Kurope. But the inhabitants may pay their devotion
at the Ihrine of any faint ; for a fraall cupboard, hav-
ing a glafs window, and in which is one of the tutelary
gods, is placed almoft before every houfe, and a
lamp is kept conftantly burning, left the old proverb
ftiould be verified, " Out of fight, o'ut of mind.'*^
Before thefe faints the people pray and fmg with fuch
vehemence, that in the night they were diftinftly heard
by our failors on board the fliip.

. ; ''-.■■ '':.'. .

The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro are exceeding
numerous, and confift of Portuguefe, Negroes, and
Indians, which laft were the original natives of the
-country. The townfliip of Rio is but a fmall part of
the Capitanea, or province; yet it is faid to contain
37,000 white people, iuid 629,000 blacks, many of
whom are free, making together 966,000, in the
proportionof 17 to I. - -

The military is compofcd of twelve regiments of
regular troops, fix being Portuguefe, and fix Creoles,
and twelve regiments of provincial militia. The inha-
bitants are fervilely fubmillive to the regulars, and it
has been faid, that if any of them (liould omit the
compliment of taking off his hat, when he meets an
ofTiccr, he would be immediately knocked down. But
the fubordination of the ollicers to the viceroy is equally
mortifying, for they are obliged to wait three limes a
day to know, or receive his commands : the anfwer
frequently is, " There is nothing new."

In Rio de Janeiro the gentry keeps their chaifes,
which are drawn by mules ; the ladies however ufe a
fedau chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains
on each fide, which carried by two negroes on a pole
connefted with the tqp of a chair, by two rods*

.<■

coming

Round the World.

t)es, and

lents of
Creoles,
le inha-
and it
iTiit the-
ects an
1. But
equally
times a
anfwer

:haifes,
' ufe a
irtains
a pole
rods*
oming

coming from under its bottom, one on each fide, and
refting to the top. The women in general, are more
readily to grant amorous favours than thofe of any other
civilized parts of the world. As foon as the evening
began, females appeared- at the windows on every fide,
who diftinguillied fuch of the men as bed plea fed their
fancies by throwing down nofegaysj and Dr. Solahder
and two other gentlemen received fo many of thefe
love-tokens, that they threw them away by hat-fulls.

This place is very ufeful for fhips that are in want of
refrefliment. The harbour is fafe and commodious and
diftinguiihed by a remarkable hill, in the fliape of a
cone, at the weft: point of the bay. The entrance is
not wide, but it is^ cafy, from the fea breeze which,
prevails from noon to fun-fet, for any fliip to enter
before the wind. Frovifions except wheatcn bread
and flour, are eafily procured* Beef, both frefli and
jerked may be bought at tvvo-penee farthing a pound,
but i^ is very lean. Mutton is fcarce to be produced*
Hogs and poultry are dear. Garden ftulF and fruit are.
in abundance. Rum, fugar, and moIalTes are all excel-
lent, and to be had at reafonable prices..

The air is feldom immoderately hot, as the fea.
breeze is generally fucceeded by a land wind. The
feafons are divided into dry and rainy, though their
commencement of late has been irregular and uncer-
tain J but at this time the rain had jull began, and fell,
in heavy lliowers during our flay.

•{ H:

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CHAP.

Captain Cook's first Voyage

CHAP,

11.

The departure of the Endeavour from Rio de Janeiro.
Her paflage from the entrance of the ftreight of Le
Maire. The inhabitants of Terra del Fuego defcribedw
Mr. Banks and Dr, Solander afcendcd a mountain in

I fearch of plants. An account of what happened
to them in this excurfion. The Endeavour pafles-
through the Strcight le Maire. An account of her
paflage, and a further defcription of the inhabitants
of Terra del Fuego. An account of Cape Horn,
and the newly difcovered iflands. An account of
tl)eir figure and appearance. The inhabitants de-
, fcribedi with a narrative of the various incidents
during the courfc, and on the Endeavour's arrival^
among them.

ON the 8th of December, 1768, having procured
neceflary fupplies,, we took our departure from
Rio de Janeiro ; and on the 9th an amazing number
of atoms were taken out of the fea. T hey are of a,
yellowiih colour, and few of them were more than the
5th part of an inch long. The fea was tinged in fach
a manner with thefe equivocal fubftances, as to exhibit
broad ftreaks of a fimilar colour for near a mile ii\
length, and feveral yards in breath.

On the nth we hooked a fhark. It proved to be a
female. When opened we took fix young ones out of
it, five of which were alive, and fwam briil^ly in a
tub of water. On the 30th we ran fifty leagues,
through vaft numbers of land infe(5ts i fome in the air,
and others upon the water. At this time we judged
ourfelves to be nearly oppofite to the bay called Sands
Fond (with boitom) where it is fuppofed that the
CQntinQiit of America is divided by a paflage.

'' •" '^ ■ ■ " Pa

Round the World.

On the 3d of January, 1769, we faw the appear-
ance of land, in lat. 47 deg, 17 min. fouth, and long.
61 deg. 29 min. 45 fee. weft, which we miftook for
Pepy's Ifland. In appearance it fo much refembled
land, that we bore away for itj and it was three hours
before we were convinced that it was one of thofe
deceptions which failors ca'l a fog bank On the nth,
after having paflcd Falkland's Ifland, we faw the coaft
of Terra del Fuego, at the diftance of about four
leagues froni the we(i to fouth-eaft by fouth.

On the 14th we entered the Streight of Le Mairc,
but were afterwards driven out again \vith fuch violence
(the tide being againft us) that the (hip's bow-fprit was
frequently under water. At length we got anchorage
in a fmall cove, on the eaft of Cape St. Vincent, the
entrance to which our Cajptain named St. Vincent's
Bay. :■ ^ ■■ • •>' ■■• •' >*;-'»

Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks went on fhore, where
having continued four hours, they returned about
nine in the evening, with above an hundred different
plants and flowers, of \vhich none of the European
botanifts had taken any notice of near this bay.

On the 18th we came to an anchor in twelve fathom
water, upon coral rocks, at the diftance of about a
mile from the ftiorc. At this time two of the natives
came down upon the beach, as if they expeded that
the ftrangers intended to land, but as there was no
ftielter here, the (hip got under fail again, and the
Indians retired difappointed. The fame afternoon we
came into the bay of Good Succcfs, and the veflfel
coming 10 an anchor, the Captain v^ent on (hore,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in
order to fearch for a watering place, and difcourfe
\7ith the Indians. Thefe geatlciuen h^ not proceeded
~ '■-■--■■-■ " - above

" V

Captain Cook's first Voyage

above one hundred yards before the captain, when
two of the Indians that had feated themfelves rofe up,
and threw away the fmall flicks they held in their
hands, as a token of annity. They afterwards returned
to their companions, who had remained at fome dif-
tance behind them, and made figns to their guefts to
advance, whom they received in a friendly, though un-
couth manner. In return for their civility, fome rib-
bands and beads were dillributed among them. Thus
a fort of mutual confidence was eflablilhed, and the
reft of the Englilh joined the party, the Indians con-
verfmg with them in their way, in an amicable manner.
Capt. Cook and his friends took three of them to the
(hip, drefled them in jackets, and gave them bread and
other provifions, part of which they carried on Ihore
with them ; but they refufed to drink rum or brandy,
leaking figns that it burned their throats, as their pro-
per drink was water. One of thefe people made long
and !oud fpeeches, but no part of them was intelligi-
ble to any of us. Another ftole the covering ot a
globe, which he concealed under his garment that
was made of Ikin. After having remained on board
about two hours, they returned on fliore, Mr. Banks
accompanying them. He condu(5led them to their com-
panions, who feemed no ways curious to know what
their friends had feen, and the latter were as litde dif-
pofed to relate, as the former were to enquire. None
pf thefe people exceeded five feet ten inches in height,
but their bodies appeared large and robuft, though their
limbs were fmali. They had broad flat faces, high
cheeks, nofes inclining to flatnefs, wide noftrills, fmall
black eyes, large mouths, fmall, but indifferent teeth,
and ftraight black hair, falling down over their ears
and foreheads, the latter being generally befmeared
with brown and red paints, and like all the original na-
tives of America, they were beardlefs, their garments
wercthe fkinfiofjfeals and guanicoes, which they wrap-
ped}

RouNDTHE World. f^

ped round their (boulders. The men likewife wore
on their headsa bunch of yarn, which fell over theirfore-^
heads, and was tied behind with the fmews or tendons
ot fome animals Many of both fexes were painted
on different parts of their bodies with red, white,
and brown colours, and had alio three or four perpen-
dicular lines pricked acrofs their cheeks and nofes. The
women had a fmall ftring tied round each ancle, and
each wbre a flap of (kin fattened round the middle. They
carried their children upon their backs, and were ge-
nerally employed in domeftic labour and drudgery.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by their fer-
vants, fetout from the (hip on the i6th, with a defign
of going into the country as fai as they could that day,
and return in the evening. Having entered a wood,
they afcended a hill through a pathlefs witd^riiers till
the afternoon. After they had reached what they
took for a plain, they were greatly difappointed to
find it a fwamp, covered with birch, the buflics inter-
woven and fo inflexible that they could not be divided;
however they fteppcd over them, but were up to tlie
ancles in boggy ground. Before they had got over
this fwamp, an accident happened that greatly difcon-
certcd them. Mr. Biichan, t)ne of the draughtfmea
whom Mr. Banks had taken with him, fell into a fit.
It was abfolutely necelfary to kindle a fire, and fuch
as were moil fatigued remained to afllft himj but Mr*
Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monkhoufe proceeded,
and attained the fpot they had in view, where they
found a great variety of plants that gratified their cu-
riofity. On returning to their company amid(t the
(now which '' '1 in great abundance, they found Mr.
Buchan much recovered. They had previoufly fcnt
^Ir. Monkhoufe iind Mr. Green back to him and
thofe that remaioe4 with him, in order to bring them to

•'» a hill

** /|i*V »lr.'.»JV il,i«,?.'<.l

:*'

Captain Cook's first VaVAOfi

a hill which was conjeftured to lie in a better traft for
returning to the wood, and which was accordingly fixed
on as a place of rendezvous.

Dr. Solander having often paffed over mountains in
could countries, was fenfible, that extreme cold, when
joined with fatigue, occafions a drowfinefs that is not
cafiJy refilled; he therefore intreated his friends to
keep in motion, however difagreeable it might be to
them. His words were — Whoever fits down will
ficep, and whoever fleeps will wake no more. — Every
one fecmcd accordingly armed with refolution; but,
on a fudden, the cold became fo very intenfe as to
threaten the moft dreadful effe^ls. It was now very
remarkable, that the DofHior himfelf, who had fo
forcibly admoniflied and alarmed his party, was the
iirft that infilled to be fuffered to repofe. In fpite of
the mofl carnefl entreaties of his friends, he lay down
amidfl the fnow, and it was with difficulty that they
kept him awake. One of the black fervants alfo be-
came weak and faint, and was on the point of follow- •
ing this bad example. Mr. Buchan was therefore de-
tached with a party to make a fire at the firfl commo-
• dious fpot they could find. Mr. Banks and four more
remained with the do£lor and Richmond the black, who
"with the utmoft difficulty were perfuadcd to come on ;
and when they had traverfed the greatefl: part of the
fwamp, they exprefled their inability of going any
farther. "When the black was told if he remained
there he would foon be frozen to death, his reply was,
that he was fo much exhauded with fatigue, that
death would be a relief to him. Dr. Solander faid,
he was not unwilling to go, but that he mull firfl take
fome fleep, flill perfifting in afting contrary to the opi-
nion which he himfelf had delivered to the company.
Thus refolved, they both fat down, fupportcd by
fomc^ bufhes, and in a Hiort time fell afleep. Intelli-
gence

ftoUND THE World.

feence came from the advanced party, that a fire was
kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way.
Mr. Banks then awakened the I)oftor, who had al-
ready almoft loft the ufe of his limbs, though it was
but a few minutes fmcc he lat down ; neverthelcfs he
confented to go on^ but every meafure taken to relieve
the black proved inefFeftual. He remained motionlefs,
and they were obliged to leave him to the care of a
i\iilor,and the other black fcrvant, who appeared to
be the leaft hurt by the cold, and they were to be re-
lieved as foon as two others were fufficicntly warmed^
to fill their places. The Doftor, with much difficulty^
was got to the fire ; and as to thofe who were fent to
relieve the companions of Richmond, they returned
without having been able to find them. What ren*
dered the mortification ftill greater was, that a bottle
of rum ( the whole ftock of the party ) could not be
found, and was judged to have been left with one of
the three that were miffing*

A fall of fnoW continuing for neat two hours, there
now remained no hopes of feeing the three abfcnt ppK*. '
fons again. At one o clock a great Ihout was heai'd.aliii -"
diftance, which gave incxpreffible fatisfadlioa xxfMerf
one prefent* Mr. Banks and four others vfint for-
wards and met the failor, who had juft ftrength enough
to walk. He was immediately fent to the fire, and .
they proceeded to feek the other two. They found,
Richmond upon his legs, but incapable of moving
them ; the other black was lying fenfelefs upon the
ground. Our endeavours to bring them to the fire
were fruitlefs; nor was it poffible to kindle one upon
the fpot, on account of the fnow; fo that their re-
mained no alternative, but to leave the two unfortu-
nate negroes to their fate. Brifcoc, another fervant
to Mr. Banks, in particular, began to lofc his ienfibility.

C At

-tm

Captain'Cook's first Voyage

■■■'>»t

At laft they reached the fire, and paffcd the night in a
very difagrecable manner.

The party that (et out from the fliip, confifted of
twelve; two of thefe were already judged to be dead,
it was doubtful whether the third would be able to re-
turn on board, and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, feemed to
be threatened with a return of his fits.

At day -break on the i7th, nothing prefented itfelf
to the view all around but fnow, which covered alike
the trees and the ground; and the bJafts of wind were
fo frequent and violent, tliat their journey feemed to
be rendered iraprafticable, and they had reafon to
dread pei-ifliing with^cdd and famine. About fix in
the morning, they were flattered with hope of being
delivered, by difcovering the fun through the clouds,
which gradually diminiHied. Before their fetting out,
melTengers were difpatched to the unhappy negroes j
but returned with the news of their death.

Hunger prevailing over every other confideration,
jrfffliced our travellers to divide the frhall remainder of

f|&c

thll^provifioii , and to fet forward on their journey
;;bout ten in the morning. To their great aftonifh-
ment and fatisfaftion, about three hours they found
hfemfelves afhore, and mych nearer to the (hip than
their moll fanguine expeftations could have fuggefted.
When they looked back upon their former rout from
the fea, they found, that inftead of afcending the hill,
in a direft line, they had made a circle almofl round
the country. On their return, thefe wanderers re-
ceived fuch congratulations from thofe on board, us
can more eafily be imagined than exprefled.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on fliore again on
the 20th of this month, landing in the bottom of the

bay,

Round the World.

bay, where they collcfted a number of fliells and
plants hitherto unknown. After having returned from
dinner, they went to vifit an Indian town, about two
piiles up the country, the accefs to which, on account
of the mud, was diificuh. When they approached
the town, two of the natives came out to meet them,
who began to (hout in their ufual manner. They af-
terwards condu(5led Mr. Banks and the do6lor to their
town. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about
fifty men, women, and children. Their bows and
arrows were conftrufted with neatnefs and ingenuity,
being made of wood highly poliflied ; and the point;
which was cither glafe or flint, very flcilfully 'fitted.
The natives here did not ftiew any furprize at the fight
of fire arms, but appeiired to be well acquainted' With
their ufe. It is Hkely that the fpot on which the
Uoftor and Mr. Banks met them, Was not a fixed ha*-
bitatioii, as their houfes did not feem as if they vvere
crefted to ftand for any long ume, and they had*^
boats or canoes about them. They did not app'
to have any form of government, of any ideas o£_
bordination. They feemed to be the very outc Jj^of
men, and a people that pafTed their lives in waSiPltcring
in a forlorn manner over dreary waftes ; their dwelling
being a thatched hovel) and their cloathing fcarcelv
fiifficient to keep them from periflaing witlj cold, evcri
in thefe climates. Their, only food was ftiell-fift^
which on any one fpot mud foon be exhaufted ; nqrliad.
they the rudeft implement of art, not even fo much
as was neceffary to drefs their food. Thofe who can
be happy in fuch a fituation, can only be fo, becaufe
they have not a due feeling of their mifery»

We obferved in this place fea lions and dogs, and
no other quadrupeds ; ncverthelefs it is probable there
^e other kinds of animals m the country. A great

variety^

■i'ii-^ - '

Captain Cook's first Voyage

variety of plants were found by the Doctor and Mr,
Banks.

On Sunday, Jan. 22, having got in our wood and
tvater, we failed out of the bay, and continued our
courfe through the Strcight ; and in pafling this, nqt-
withftanding the defcription which fomc voyagers have
given of Terra del Fucgo, we did not find that it had
agreeable to their rcprcfentations, fuch a forbidding
afpeft. Nine miles weftward of Cape St. Diego, the
low point that forms the north entrance of the Strcight
pf Le Mairc, are three hills, called the Three Bro-
thers ; and on Terra del Fuego is another hill, in the
form of a fugar loaf, which ftands on the weft fide, not
far from the fea. We had not that difficulty mentioned
in the hiflory of Lord Anfons's voyage, in finding where
the Strcight of Le maire lies. . •*

The Strcight of Le maire is bounded on the weft by
Srra del Fuego, and on the eaft by the weft end of
S|aten ifland, and is nearly five leagues in length, nor
ld^|ji breadth. The bay of Good Succefs is feated
about the middle of it, on the fide of Terra delFucgo,
which prcfents itfelf at the entrance of the Streighit
from the northward ; and the fouth end of it may be
'^iiiftinguiflied by a land mark, rcfcmbling a road from
the fea to the country. It affords good anchorage,
and plenty of wood and water.

January the 26th we took our departure from Cape
Horn, and the fartheft fouthem latitude we made was.
60 deg. 10 min. and our long, was then 74 deg. 30'
min. weft. Cape Horn is fituated in 55 deg. 53 min.
fouth latitude, and 68 deg. 13 min. weft long. The
"Weather being calm, Mr. Banks failed in a fmall boat
to ihoot birds, when he killed fome flieer-waters and
fl^lbatroiics. At this time we found ourfelves to be 1 2

deg,

•V.

ROUNPTHE W0H.Jt.P,

deg. to the weflward, and three and a half to the
northward of the Strcight of Magellan, having fronf
the eafl entrance of the Streight, beep 33 days in fail-
ing round Cape Horn.

March ift. wc found ourfelvcs both by obfervation
and the log, in hit. 38 deg. 44 min. fouth, and no dcg,
33 min. well longitude, a concurrence very fingular in a
run of 660 leagues ; and which proved, that no cur-
rent had affdfted the (Inip in her courfe ; and it was
likewife concluded, that Ave had not come near land of
jiny confiderable extent ; for currents arc always found
at no great difttmcc from the iliore. On tbe 251th a
juarin? abcut twenty thre v himfelf overboard, ou ac-
count of a quarrel about a piece of feal ikin, which
he took by way of a frolic ; but being charged widi it
as a theft, he took the accufation fo much to heart, that
in the duik of the evening he "threw himfelf into the
jkuzud was drowned.

On the 4th of April about ten o'clock A. M.-Pctcr
Brifcoe, fervant to Mr. Banks, difcovered bud to the
fouth, at the diftance of about three or four leagues.
Captain Cook immediately gave orders to haul for it,
when we found an iiland of an oval form, having ji'
Jagoou or lake in the center, that extended over the
greater part of it. The furrounding border of land
was low and narrow in many places, efpecially towards
the fouth, where the beach confifled of a reef of rocks.
Several of the natives were difcovered on fliore j they
appeared to be tall, with heads remarkable large,
which probably fome bandage mighr have increafed.-
^Sorae of thcfe people were feen a-breaft of the ftiip,
holding poles or pikes of twice their own heigth.
They appeared alfo naked ; but when they retired, on
the Ihip's pafling the illands, they put on a light co-
. |oured covering. Our Captain called this place Lagoon

ifland.

22 Captain Cook's first Voyage

ifland. It lay in i8 deg. fouth lat. and 139 weft
long.

CHAP,

HI,

The Endeavour arrives at Otaheite, or George the
Third's ifland— *-An account of feveral incidents dur-
ing his ftay in this ifland-^Excurfions into the woods
•— Vifits from feveral of the chiefs — The mufic of
the natives, and their manner of burying their
dead — Other cxcurfions and incidents, both on
board and on fh.ore — Firft interview with Obcrea,
the fuppofed Queen of the ifland — ^The quadrant
ftolen, and the confequences — A vifit to Tootahah,

. an Indian chief — A wrefl;lng match defcribed — .

* European feeds are fown — ^The Indians give our peo-
ple names

ON the nth we made Otaheite, or, as Captain
Wallis had named it King George the Third's
ifland. The calms prevented our approaching it till
the morning, when a breeze fprung up, and feveral
canoes were feen making towards the fliip. Few of
them, however, would come near, and thofe who did
could not be perfuaded to come on board. They had
brought with them young plantains and branches of
trees, which were hauled up the fliip's fide, and, by
their defire, were fl:uck in confpicuous parts of the
rigging, as tokens of peace and friendfliip. We iheii
purchafed thtir commodities, confifting of cocoa-nuts,
bannas, bread-fruit, apples and figs, which werar

very

Round the World.

very acceptable to the crew. On the evening of the
fame we pened the north- weft point of the ifle, to
which the Dolphin's people had given the name of
York ifland. We lay off and on all night, and In the
morning of the 13th we entered Port Royal harbour
in ihe ifland of Otaheite, and anchored within half a
mile of the fhore. Many of the natives came off im-
mediately in their canoes, and brought with them
bread-fruit, cocoa nuts, apples, and fome hops, »vhich
they bartered for beads and 6ther trinkets with the
Ihip's company.

Among thofe who came on board the Endeavour,
was an elderly man, named Owhaw, known to Mr,
Gore and others who had vifited this ifland with captain
Wallis. Owhaw being confidered by our gentlemen
as a very ufeful man, they ftudied to pleafe him, and
to gratify all his wiflies. As our continuance in
George's ifland was not likely to be very fliort, certain
rules were drawn up to be obferved by every perfon
on board, for the better eftablifliing a regular trade
with 'the natives. The fubftance ofthefe rules
were, #

'* That in order to prevent quarrels and confufioi^^
every one of the fliip's crew fliould endeavour H^treat
the indabitants of Otaheite with humanity, and by all
fair means to cultivate a friendfliip with them. That
no officer, feaman, or other perfon, belonging to the
fliip, excepting fuch only who were appointed to barter
with the natives, fliould trade, or offer to trade for
any kinds of provifions, fruit, or other produce of the
ifland, without having exprefs leave fo to do. That
no perfon fliould embezzle, trade, or offer to trade
with any part of the fliip's (lores j and that no fort of
iron, or any thing made of iron, nor any fort of c!oth»
or other ufeful article in the fhip, fliould be given in

. " exchange

Captain Coidk's FIRST VovAcfe

exchange for ahy thing but provifion." Thefe necef-
iary rules were ifigned by Capt. Cook, andj being his
orders, to the non-obfervance of thenn were annexed
certain penalties, befides the punilhment aeeord'ing to
the ufual cuftom of the navy.

When the baik was properly fecured, C.pt. Coook,
Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went on fhbre, with ^
partyimder arms, and their friend the old Indian.
They were recciv«id by fonie of the natives with awe
and reverence, who exchanged the tokens of peacc^
and offered to condudl them to a fpot of ground,
which'wouldbe more convenient for them to occupy,
than where they hnd landed. On thtir way, the
Englitb made the Indians forne prefents, which the
latter very thankfully received. They now took a
circuit of about four miles through groves of bread-
fruit and cocoa-trees. Intermingled with thefe were
the dwellings of the natives, which confided of huts
without, walls. In the courfe of their journey they
found but few fowls or hogs, and underftood, that none
of their condudlors, nor any of the people they had
hitherto feen, were perfons of rank in the ifland.
Thofe of our crew who had been before at Otaheite
were likewife of opinion, that the Qjieen's reiidence
liad b^cn removed, as no trace of it were now to be
difcovered.

Next day, in the. ttiorning, before they could leave
the fhip, feveral canoes came about her filled with
people, whofedrefs denoted them to be of the fuperior
clafs. Two of thefe came on board, and each of tlicm
£xed upon a friend : one of them chofe Mr. Banks,
and the other Capt. Cook. The ceremonials confilled
of taking off their cloaths in gi*eat part, and putting
'them upon their adopted friends. This compliment
.was returned by out gentlanea prcfcnting them with

fomc

J necef-
;ing his
mnexed
ding to

Coook,
, with ^
Indian,
ith awe
f peace,
ground,
occupy,
a}^, the
ich the
took a
bread-
fe were
of huts
ey they
hat none
icy had
iiland.
Dtaheite
elidence
^ to be

Round the World.

fonle trinkets. They then made figns for their new
friends to go with them to the place of their abode ;
and the latter being defirous of being acquainted with
the people, and finding out a more convenient harbour,
accepted the invitation, and went with them, accom-
panied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, Capt. Cook,
and others. We all landed in two boats at the diftance
of three miles, among a great number of the natives,
who conduced us to a large habitation, where we
were introduced to a middle-aged man, named Tohta-
hah. When we were feated, he prefented to Mr.
Banks, a cock, a hen, and a piece of perfumed cloth,
which compliment was returned by a prefentfrom Mr.
Banks. We w^re then conduced to feveral other
large dwellings, wherein we walked about with great
freedom. The ladies fo far from fhunning, invited,
and even prelTcd us to be feated ; by frequently point-
ing to the mat upon the ground.

Walking afterward? along the fliore, we met, ac-
companied by a great number of natives, another
chief, named Tubourai Tamaide, with whom we fet-
tled a treaty of peace, in the manner before defcribed.
This chief gave us to underfland, that he had provifions
at our fervice, if we chofe to eat, which he produced,
and we dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains, and
filh. During this vifit, Tomio, the chiePs wife,
placed herfelf upon the fame mat with Mr. Banks,
clofe by him ; but as flie was not young, nor appeared
ever to have poffcfTed many charms, this gentleman
paid little attention to her ; and Tomio received an
additional mortification, when Mr. Bai^s beckoned
to a pretty girl, who came and placed herfelf by him.
The princefs was fomewhat chagrined at tliis prefer-
ence given to her rival. This whimfical fcene was
interrupted by an event of a more ferious nature ; Dr.
Solander having miffed his opera glafs, a complaint was

Numb. 2, .■'■-'' D made

Captain Cook's first Voyage

made to the chief, which interrupted the convivial
party. The complaint was inforced by Mr. Banks's
Starting up and ftriking the but-«nd of his mufquet
againft the ground, which ftruck the Indians with fuch
a panic, that all of them ran precipitately out of the
houfe, except the chief and a few others of the fii-
perior clafs. That no difadvantageous notions might
be entertained of them on account of this circumftance,
the chief obferved, with an air of great probity, that
the place whicli the Doftor had mentioned on this
occafion, was not within his diftrift, but he would
fend to the chief of it, and endeavour to recover it,
adding, that if this could not be done, he would
make the Doftor compenfation, by giving him .as
■much new cloth as ihould be thought equal to the
value. The cafe however was brought in a little time,
and the glafs itfelf foon after. After this adventure
Was amicably terminated, we returned to the fliip about
fix in the evening.

On Saturday the r5th, in the morning, feveral of
the chiefs came on board, bringing with them hogs,
and other refreflunents, in exchange for which they
received Knen, beads, and other trinkets; but fome
of them took the liberty of ftealing the lightening
chain. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks,
and fome of the other gentleinea, went on fliore, to
fix on a proper fpot to ereft a fort for their defence,
during their flay on the ifland, and the ground was
accordingly marked out for that purpofe : a great
cumber of the natives looking on all the while, and
liehaving in the moll peaceable and fiueudly manner.

Mr. Banks and his friends having fecn few hogs and
poultry in their walks, they fufpcfted that they had
been driven up the country ; for which reafon they
d^terroined to penetrate into the woods, the tent

^cing.

Round the WoRLt).

leral of
n hogs,
h they
feme
iteuhig
Bunks,
lore, to
efence,
liid was
great
, and
incr.

[gs and

:y had

they

le tent

being.

being guarded by a petty officer, and a party of ma-
rines. On this excurfion icvcral of the natives ac-
. iompanied the Englifli. While the party were on
their march, they were alarmed by the difcharge of
two pieces fired by the guard of the tent. Owhaw
haying no-yv calied together the captain's party, dil-
perfed all the Indians, except three, who in token of
rlietr fidelity broke branches of trees, according ta
their cultom, and whom it was thought proper to.
retain. When they returned to the tent, they found
that an Indian having fnatched away one ojf the centi-
n^Fs niufquets, a young midftiipman, \yho commande4
the party, was fo imprudent as to give the marines or-
ders to fire, which were obeyed, and many- of the
natives were wounded ; but this did not fatisfy them,
as the offender had not fiillen, they therefore purfued
him and revenged the theft by his death. This aft.ion,
which was equally iiiconfiftent with policy and huma-
nity, could not but be very difpleafing to Mr. Banks ;
but as what had paflTed could not be recalled, nothing
remained but to endeavour to accommodate matters
with the Indians. Accordingly he crofl'ed the river,
where he met an old man, through whofe meditation
feveral of the natives were prevailed to come over iq,
them, and to give the ufual tokens of friendfliip.

Mr. Banks on the 17th, had the misfortune to,lofe.
Mr. Buchan, The fame day they received a vifit from.
Tubourai Tamaide, and Tootahah. They brought,
with them fome plantain branches, and till thefe were
received, they w^uld not venture on board. They*
bartered fome braad-fruit and a hog, which was ready
dreffcd, for nails, with the EngUlh.

Tubourai Tamaide vifited Mr. Banks at his tent on
Wednefday the 19th, and brought with him his vvift?
and family. He afterwards alked that gentleman to,

accompany

\ >

Captain Coqk's first Voyage

accompany him to the woods. On their arrival at a
place where he fometimeg refided, he prefented his
guefts with two garments, one of which was of red
cloth, and the other was made of fine matting; having
thus clothed Mr. Banks, he condvided him to the (hip,
and (laid to dinner with his wife and fon.

On the 22d we '^ert entertained by fome of the mu»
ficians of the country, who performed on an inftrur
ment fomcwhat refembling a German flute, bat the
performer blew through his noftril inftead of hi»
mouth, and others accompanied this inflrument, fing-
jng only one tune.

On the 24th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an
^xcurfion into the country and found it level and fertile
along the Ihore, for about two miles to the eaftward";
after which the hills reached quite to the water's
edge ; and farther on they ran out into the fea. Hav-
^n^ palTed thefc hi|ls, which continue^ about three
miles, we came to an extenfive plain, abounding with
good habitations, and the people feemed to enjoy a
confiderable fhare of property. This place was ren-;
<iered ftill more agreeable by a wide river ilTuing fron;i
a valley, and which watered it. We crofled this river,
when perceiving the country to be barren, we refolved
to return. , . . ..

On the 25th, in the evening, feveral of the gentle-
mens knives were mifllng, Mr. Banks, who had loft his
among the: reft, accufed Tubourai Tamaide of having
taken it^ which as he was innocent, ' occafioned him a
great deal of unmerited anxiety. He made figns,
while the tears ftarted from his eyes, that if he had
ever been guilty of fuch a theft as was imputed to him,
he would fuffi^r his throat to be cut. But though he
\Yai5 innocent, it w^s plain from many inftanccs^ that
- "" ' ~ • ' the

■I

Round the World.

al at a
ted his
of red
having
he Ihip,

he mu»
inftru-
Dut the
of hi^
t, fing-

lade an
i fertile
[Iward'i
water's
Hav-
t three
pg with
enjoy a
as ren-:
g from,
s river,
folved

gentle-
loft his
having
him a
figns,
he had
to him,
ugh he
that
the

;8f

the natives of this ifland were very much addiAcd to
thieving ; though Mr. Banks's fervant had miflaid the
knife in queftion, yet the reft were produced in a rag
^y one of the natives.

When the guns on the 26th, which were fix fwivels,
had been mounted on the fort, the Indians fecmed to'
be in great trouble, and feyeral of the fifhermen re-
moved, fearing, notwithftandJng all the marks of friend-
ftiip, which had been (hewn to them by our people,
they fliould, in J^ fe^v days, be fired at from the :brt ;
yet the next day, being the 27th, Tubourai Tamaide
pams with three wonien and a friend of his, who was a
l-emarkable glutton, and after dinner returned to his
own houfe in the wood. In a ftiort time after became
back to complain to Mr. Banks, of a Ijutcher, who had
threatened to cut his wife's throat, becaufe (he would
not barter a ftone hatchet Tor £i nail. It appearing
clearly that the offender had infringed one of the rules
enjoined by the captain for trading with the nj^liyes, h^,
was flogged on board in their fight.

On the 28th, Terapo, one of Tubourai Tamaide's
female attendants, came down to the fort in the greats
e(l affliflion, the tears gu(hing from her eyes. Mr.
Banks feeing her full of lamentation and forrow, in-
fifted upon knowing the caufe, but inftcad of anfwering,
ihe ftruck herfelf fevcral times with a (hark^s tooth
upon her head, till an effufion of blood followed,
while her diftrcfs was difregarded by feveral other Inr
dians, who continued laughing and talking with the
utmoft unconcern. After this (he gathered up fome
pieces of cloth, which (he had thrown down to catch
the blood, and threw them into the fea, as if (he wi(h^
ed to prevent the leaft trace or mark of her abfurd
behaviour. She then bathed in the river, and with

Teraaikablc

Captain Cook's FIRST Voyagb

remarkable chearfulnefs, returned to the tent, as if no*
thing extraordinary bad happened.

Mr. Molincux, Mafter of the Endeavour, feeing a
woman whofe name was Oberea, be declared fhe was
the fame perfon whom he judged to be the queen of
the ifland when he was there with Capt. Wallis. The
eyes of every one were now fixed on her, of whom fo
much had been faid by the crew of the Dolphin.
With regard to her perfon, (he was tall and rather
large made *, (he was about forty years of age, her
fkin white, and her eyes had great expreffion in them :
fhe had been handforne, but her beauty was now upon
the decline. Many prefents were made her, particu-
larly a child's doll, which (he viewed very attentively.
Capt. Cook accompanied her on (ho re, and when we
landed, (he prefented him with a hog and fome planr
tains, in return tor his prefents, which were carried
to the fort'in procelTion, Oberea and the Captain bring-
ing u p the rear. In their way they met Tootahah, who
no fooner faw the doJl, than he difcoveied ftrong
fymptoms of jealoufy, nor could any method be found
of conciliating his friend(hip, but that of compliment-
ing him with a baby alfo. A doll was now preferable to
a hatchet, but a very (hort time taught the Indians the
fuperior value of iron, which on account of its ufefiil-
ncfs, prevailed over every other confideration.

On -the 29th, near noon, Mr. Banks p'aid a vifit to
Oberea, but was informed that (he was afleep under
the awning of her canoe ; and, going to call her up,
was furprifed at finding her in bed with a young fel-
low, a difcovery which caufed him to retire rather
difconcerted i but he foon underftood that a com-
merce of this fort was by no means confidered asfcan-
dalous^ the ladies frequently courting the men to
amorous dalliance^ of which they made no fccret ) and
'.' """ ' " "".' ' '" " "' . ' as

■■I tent

■ f Tul

if 1

Round the World^

3f'

as to youDg Obadee, found in bed with the queen, he

was well known by every one tabe theobjedl of her

lafcivious hours. The queen foon got up, and dreffed

herfelf to wait upon Mr. Banks, and, after having, as

a token of her particular regard, put on him a fuit of

fine cloth, they proceeded together to the tents. In

the evening Mr Banks vifited Tubourai Tamaide. He

[was aftonifhed to find this chief and his family all in

(tears, and not being able to difcover the caufe, he foon

■took leave of them. Upon his return the officers told

him, that Owhaw had forettjld, that the guns would

i be fired within four days, and as this was the eve of

ithe third day, they were alarmed at the fituation they

[judged themfelves to be in. As we were apprehenfire

iof ill confequenccs from this prepolleflion, the centi-

nels were doubled at the fort, and we thought it ne-

|ceflary to keep under arms.

On the 50th Tomia came in great hade to our
{tent, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, told him that
[Tubourai Tamaide was dying, owing to fomewha»" that
had been given him by our people, and intreated him
inftantly to go to him. Accordingly Mr Banks went
and found the Indian very fick. He had been vomit-
ing, and had thrown up a leaf which they faid con-
tained fome of the poifon. Mr. Banks haying exa-
I mined the leaf, found it was nothing but tobacco,,
which the Indian had begged of fome of the (hip's
company.

The matter, however, appeared in a very ferious
llight to Tubourai Tamaide, who really concluded from
[the violent ficknefs he fuffered, that he had fw alio wed
[fome deadly drug, the terror of which no doubt, con-
tributed to make him yet more fick. While Mr. Banks
was examining the leaf, he looked up to him, as if he
had been juft on the point of death. But when the na-
ture-

Captain Cook's first VoVage

ture oP this dreadful poifoii was found out, he only or-
dered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, waich foon re-
ftored him to health, auJ he was as chearful as before
the accident happened.

On the I ft of May, Capt. Cook having produced
an iron adze, which was made in imitation of the ftone
ones ufed by the natives, lliewed it to Tootahah, as a
curiofity. The latter fnatched it up, and infifted on
having it ; and though he was offered the choice of
any of the articles in the cherts which were opened
before him, yet he would not accept of any thing in
its ftead.

May 2, we took the aftronomical quadrant and fome
of the inftruments on fliore that afternoon ; and to
our great furprife when we wanted to make ufe of the
quadrant, the next day, it was not to be found ; a
matter which was looked upon as the more extraordi-
nary, as a centincl had been placed the whole night
within a few yards of the place where it was dcpofited.
A ftrift fearch was made in and about the fort, and a
reward offered in order to obtain it again. But this
proving fruitlefs, Mr. Banks, and fome other gentlemen
fet out for the woods ; where they thought they might
get fome tidings of what was Itolcn. In their way they
met with Tubourai Tamaidc and fome of the natives.
This chief was made to underftand by figns, that they
had loft the quadrant, and that as fome of fheir coun-
trymen muft have taken it, they infifted upon being
lliewn the .place >yhere it v/as concealed. Having
proceeded a few miles together, after fome enquiry,
Tubourai Tamaide was informed who the thief was,
and it Was found that he was then at a place about
four miles diftant. As they had no fire arms but a brace
of piftols, nor caring to truft themfelves fo far from
the fort, a mcfllige was difpatched to Capt. Cook,!

requefting

•t

Round the WorlOj

Irequefting him to fend out a party to fupport them.
The Captain accordingly fet out with a party properly
armed, after having laid an embargo upon all the ca-»
noes in the bay.

In the mean time, Mr. Banks And Mr. Grcert pro-
ceeded on their way, and at the place which had been
mentioned, were met hy one of Tubourai Tamaid*s
dwn people, bringing with lihn part of the qliadrant ;
the cafe and the other parts of the inftrument were
recovered foon afterwards, when it was found that it
had received no real injury, though it had been taken
to piecesi

When they returned in the evening, they were much
{uvprifed to find Tootahah under confinement in the
fort, while a croud of natives furrounded the gate^
difcovering marks of the grcateft anxiety for the fate
of their chief. The occafiort of this- detention origi-
nated from the conduct of the Indians : alarmed atCapti
Cook's having gone up the country with an armed
party, moH: of the natives left the fort that evening,
and one of the canoes attempted to iquit the bay* The
lieutenant who commanded on board the fliip, having
it in charge not to fuffer any canoe to depart, fent a
boat to detain her, but flie no fooner approached, thaii
the Indians jumped into the fea* Tootahah being of
the number, was taken up, and fent by the lieutenant
to the officer that commanded at the fort, who con*,
■eluded he flK)uld do right to detain lH^i||f.p|tifoneri
\\]\\\c the poor chief thought of nothing oupSCTfig put
to dcat^', cill Capt. Cook caufed him to be returned, to
'the great joy of his countrymen.

On the 3d provifions were extremely fcarcc, as the
markets continued to be ill fupplied on the account
already mentioned; and it Was not without fome difS-

£ culty^

Captain Cook's first Voyage

culty, that Mr. Banks got a few bafkets of bread-
fruit. However, fome time afterwut-ds, having pro-
duced fome nails to barter for provifionSy we got
twenty cocoa-nuts and fome bread-fruit, for one of the
fmalleft fizc, fo that we foon had plenty of thefe arti-
cles, though no hogs.

On the toth in the forenoon, Oberea paid us a vifk,
accompanied by Obadee, prefenting us with a hog and
fome bread-fruit. This was the firft vifit w6 had re-
ceived from this lady, fmce the lofs of our quadrant,
and the confinement of Tootahah. By this time our
forge was fet up, which afforded a new fubjeft of ad-
Aiiration to the Indians, and to Capt. Cook ah addition-
al opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by
permitting the finith, to convert the old iron, which
they were fuppolcd to have procured from the Dolphin,
into different kind of tools. Oberea produced as
much iron as would have made for her another axe; this
flie requefted to have done;; but the lady could not be
gratified in this particular, upon which (lie brought a
broken axe, defiring it might be mended. The axe
"Was mended, and to all appearance (he was content.

On the nth we fowed, in ground properly prepared^
feeds of melons, and other plants, but none of them
came up except mufbrd. Mr. Banks thought the
fceds were fpoiled by a tqtal exchifion of frefli air,
ithey having all been put into fmall bottles, and fealei
«p with rofiflr

C H A P.

Round tHe World,

m^mmm^^'^r^^

C H A P. IV.

^n extraordinary vifit-r-Divine fervice attended by the
natives of Oialieite--rAn nncommon fight — ^Tubourai
Tamaide found guilty of theft — A relation of what
happened at the fort, when obferving the Tranfit of
. Venus — A defcription of an Indian funeral — Prepa-
rations made for leaving the ifland — An account of
their departure, and the behaviour of the natives oil
this occadon.

ON the 1 2th of this month (May) an uncommoA
ceremony was performed by fome of the natives*
As Mr. Banks was fitting in his boat, trading with
them as ufual, fome ladies, who were ftrangers, ad-
vanced in proccflion towards him. The reft of the
Indians on each fide gave way, and formed a lane for
the vilitors to pafs, who coming up to Mr. Banks, pre-
fented him with fome parrots feathers, and various
kinds of plants. Tupid who ftood by Mr. Banks, afted
as his mafter of the ceremonies, and receiving the
branches, which were brought at fix different times^
laid down in the boat. After this fome large bundles
of cloth were brought, confiding of nine pieces, di-
vided into three parcels, one of the yromen, called
Oorattooa, who appeared to be the principal, fleppiug
upon one of them, pulled up her cloathcs as high as
her waift, and then, with an air of unaffefted firapli-
city, turned round three times. This ceremony flic
repeated, with funilar circumftances, on the other two
parcels of cloth ; and the whole being then prefented
rttJVIr. Banks, th? h<X\c% went and faluted him j in re-
• ■ ' ' ' "" ■ • " ■ , varu

i<i

Captain Cook's first VovAotf

turn for which cxtraorJiinry favours, lie made them
fuch prcfcnts as lie thought would bcil plciilc them.

On Sunday the 14th, divine fervice was performed
at the fort. 'J^uboLirai Tamaide and his wife were prc-
fcut, but though they behaved witli much decency, they
made no enquiries with refpeft to the ceremonies.
The day thus began with a(fls of devotion, but con-
cluded with thole of lewdnefs exhibited among the
natives by \vay of entertainment. Amqng the reft, a
young fellow lay publickly with a girl about 1 2 years
of age, without the leafl lenfc of impropriety or inde-
cency, pberca, and fome ladies of the firll rank in
tlie country were fpcftators, who even gave inftru£l»ons
to the girl how to jjerfonn her part, though, young a^
ihc was, feemed unnccelTary. ...

On Monday the 15th, Tuborrai Tamaide was de-
|e6ted in having committed a theft. Mr. Banks bad
2\. good opinion of this chief, but, when his honefty was
J)ut to the telt, a baflcet of nails, left in the corner of
the tent proved irrcfidible. lie confeffed the facl of
having Itolen four nails, but when reflitution was dtr
mandcd, Tamaide faid the nails were at Eparre. High
words pailcd on the occafion, and in the cud, the In-
dian produced one of the nailj, and was to be forgiven
on relloring the reit ; but his virtue was not equal to
the talk, and he withdrew himfclf, as ufual, when h$
had committed any cffencc.

On the 2^tli, Mr. Banks feeing Tubourai Tamaide
•and hiis wife Tomio at the tent for tlie tirfi: time iince
the former had been detefted in 11 .uling the nails, lit
endeavoured to perfuade him to leliore them, but in
vain. As our gentlemen treated him with a rcfervc
and cool.ijfs which he could not but perceive, his i\^y
was iliort, and he departed iu * very abrupt manncv;

Round the W o r i. d.

e them ^1 iior could our fuqjeon the next morning pcrfuudc hnn to
uiYch ajTCcouciliation by bringing down the uiiils.

At thi*? tinie the prepiirations were miide for vicnvinfr
the tninlit of Venus, uml two piirties were fcnt out to
nialcc obrervatiuns from dlHcrent I'poc^, tinit in cafe of
failing in one pi.ice they might fucceed in iinother.
Tliey employed themfelves for fome time in preparinj^
their indruments, and inltru(fting thofe gentlemen who

'• were to go out, in the ufe oi tlieni ; aud on Thurfday
the iirfl'of June, they fent the long boat with Mr.
Gore, Mr. Monkhoufc (ihe two obfervers) and Mr.
Sporing, witii proper inllruments to Em.ayo. Others

[Were fent to find out a fpot that might anfwer the
purpofe, at a convenient diftance from their principal
llation.

The party that went towards F.mayo, after rowings
tlie greater part oF the night, having hailed a canoe,
were informed of a place by the Indians on board,
which was juclged proper for their obfervatory, where
they accordingly, fixed their tents. It was a rock
that rofe out of the water abotn 140 yards Irom the
ftiorc;.

Saturday the 3d Tthe day of the tranfit) Mr. Biyih:?,
as fbdn as jt was light, left them, in order to vo and
get frelli provifions on the illand. This gentleman had
;he fatisfaftion to fee the lun rife without a cloud. The
king, whofe name was Tarraro, came to pay him a vi-
fit, as he was trading with the natives, and brought
with him Nunna his fifler. As it was cuftomary for
the people in thefe parts to be feared at their confer-
ences, Mr. Banks fpread his turban of India clothy
which he wore as a hat, upon the ground, on which
they all fet down. Then a hog and a dog, fomc cqcoa-
nuts, and bread-fruit w^crc brought, being the king's

' ' ' prcfsjilf

Captain Cook's first Voyage

pr^fent, and Mr. Banks (cm for an adze, a lliirt, and
fome beads, which were prefented to his majefty, who
receiv.ed them with apparent latisfaftion. Afterwards
the king, his fifler, and three beautiful females, their
attend.uus, returned with l\Ir. Banks to the obferva-
tory, where he fliewed them tlie trannt of Venus,
when tlie ]>hmet was upon the fun, and acquainted
them, that to view it in tuat fituatiou was the caufe of
his undcrta]:ing a voyage to thofe remoter parts. Ac-
cording to this gentleman's account, the produce of
this illand is nearly the fame with that of Otaheite j
the people alfo refembled ihofe of that iiland ; he
had feen many of them upon it who were acquainted
with the nature of trading articles. The parties that
i^'ere fent out to make their obfervations on the tranfit,
had good fuccefs in their undertaking: though they-dif--
fered rather more than might have been expe<5ted in
tjheir account of the contad.

Mr. Green*s accoant was as follows :

The fidl external conta£>
The firfl internal contact, or

total emerfion, . - - -
The fecond internal contac% -

or beginning of the emcr-

fion - r

The fecond external conta<^,

or total emerllon - - -

9
9

25
44

»4

Latitude of the obfcrvatory 17 deg. 29 min. 15 fee.
fouth ; — longitude, 149 deg. 32 min. 30 fee, weft from

Greenwich.

While the

(Tcntlcmen

and officers were bufied in

viewing the traniii;, Ibme of the fliii)'s company having
broke into the llorc-rgom, took the hberty ct ftealing

Round the World.

i!^

a quantity of fpikc-nuils. After a ftrift fearch the thief
was found out; he had, however, but few of the
nails in his poffeflion ; but he was ordered to receive two
dozen of lafhcs, by way of example.

On the 4th, an old female of fome diftin6lion dy-
ing, gave us an opportunity of obferving the ceremo-
nies ufed by thefe iflanders in difpofmg of the dead
bodies of their people. In the front of the fquare
fpace, a fort of ftile was placed where the relations o£,
thedeceafed flood to give token of their grief. There
were under the awning fome pieces o<- cloth, whereon
■were the tears and Hood of the mourners, who ufed
to wound themfelves with a fhark's tooth upon thefe
oGcafions. Four temporary houfes were eredled at a
ftnall diftanee, in one of which remained fome of the
relations ot the deceafed ; the chief mourner refided
in another J and was drfeffed in a particular manner, \n
order to perform a. certain^ ceremony. When the
eorpfe is rotteil, the bones, are buried near the fpot.^
Concerning the ceremony we are about to fpeak of
the following is the account we have of it, which may
not be unervtertaining to the reader. It was performed
on the roth, and Mr. Banks was fo deiirous of b^ing
prefent, that he agreed to take a part in it, wnen he
was informed that he could not be a fpcdlatqi on any
other condition. ,. i>iTi ' ;

He went accordingly in the evening, to the place
where the body was to be depofited, where he was
met by tlie relations of the deceafed, ard was after-
wards joined by feveral other perfons. Tubourai
Tamaide was the principal mourner, whofe drefs was
whimfical, -ihough not altogether ungraceful. Mr.
Banks waS' obliged to quit his European drefs, and had,
no other covering than a fmall piece of cloth that was,
tied round hh middle j his body was blacked over with'

charcoal

4®

Captain Cook's PI R9T VoaVge

charcoal and water, as were the bodies of feveral
others, and among them fome females, who were no
more covered than himfelf. The proceJlJon then be-
gan, and the chief mourner uttered fome words which
were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the
body, and he repeated thefe words as he came up to
his own houfe. They afterwards went on, by per-
miflion, towards the fort. It is ufual for the reft of
the Indians to fhun thefe procefllons as much as poffi-
blci they accordingly ran into the woods in great hafte
as foon as they came in view;

.From the fort the mourners proceeded along the
(bore, crolTed the river, then entered the woods, pat-
fmg feveral hcufes, which became immediately immha-
bited, and during the reft of the proceflloui which
continued for half an hour, not an Indian was vifible.
|i/Sr. Banks filled an office that they called Niniveh^ and
.riiere vere two others of the fame character. When
none of the other natives were to be .feen» they ap-
proached the chief mourner, faying Imatara; then thofe
who had aflifted at the ceremoBy bathed in the river,
and refumed their former drefs. Such was this uncom-
mon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a pria-
cipal part, and received applaufe from Tubourai Ta-^.
maide, the chief mourner. What can have introduced
amonty thefe Indians fo (Irange a cuflom as that of ex-^
pofing their dead above ground, till the flefh is con-
futed by putrefadlion, and then burying their bones,
it is perhaps impofiible to giiefs; nor is it lefs diificuU
to determine, why the repolitories of ^their dead Should
be a'fo places of worlhip. li- \ /.' ■

• ■ ■ • ...... • . I . .

On the mhf the Indians having loft fome of their
bows and arrow:?, and ftiings of plaited hair, a com-
plaint wrs made * to the captain. Tlie affair was

enquired

Round the World.

enquired into, and the faft being well attefled, the of-*
fenders received each two dozen of laftics.

On the 14th, in the night,' an iron coal-rake for the^
riven was ftole ; and many other things having at dif-*
ferent times been conveyed away, Capt. Cook judged
it of fome confequence, to put an end, if poffible, to
fuch praftices, by making it their common intereft to
prevent it. He had already given ftri6l orders, that
the cehtinals lliould hot fire upon the Indians, eveii if
they were detefted in the faft ; but many repeated de-
predations determined him to make reprizals*

A few days after, tWenty-feven of their double
canoes with iails arrived, containing cargoes of fifli j
thefe the Captain feized, and they gave notice, that
imlefs the rake, and all the other things that had been
fit.', were returned, the veffel Ihould be burnt.
i ac menaces produced no other effeft than the refti-
tution of the rake, all the other things remaining in
their poffeffion. The Captain, however, thought fit
to ?'"c up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were
in great diflrefs for want of them, and in order to
prevent the confufion arifing from difputes concerning
the property of the different lots of goods which they
had on board.

On tii^ igiti in the evenings Awhile the cailoes were
flill detained, Oberea and feveral of her attendants
paid us a ■ '<» . She came from Tootahah*s palace, in
a double c r> ".nd brought with her a hog, tread-
fruit, and G Ji :r prefents, but not a fmgle article of
the things that had been ftoleii ; thefe flie faid had
been taken away by her favourite Obadee, whom {he
had beaten and difmilTed. She feemed however con-
fcious that her Hory did not deferve credit, and ap-
peared at firft much terrified j though Ihe furmounted

E her

Captain Cook^s first Voyage

her fears with great fortitude, and was defirous of
lleeping with her attendants in Mr. Banks's tent; but
this being refufed, flie was obliged to pafs the night
m her canoe. The next morning Oberea returned,
putting herfelf wholly in our power, when we accepted
of her prefents, which Hie doubtlefs thought, and
juftly too, the moft efFe£lual means to bring about a
reconciliation.

On June the 26th, Capt. Cook fetting out in the
pinnace with Mr. Banks, failed to the eaftward, whh a
defign of circura-navigating the ifland. They went on
fliore in the forenoon, in a diftrift in the government
of Ahio, a young chief, who at their tents had fre-
quently been their vifitant. Afterwards they pro-
ceeded to tlie harb^ ; '"""re M. Bougainville's veffel
ky, and the fpot whei\ pitched his tent.

Coming ta a large bay, when the Englilli gentlemen
mentioned their defign of going to the other fide, theif
Indian giude, faid he would not accompany them, and
alfo endeavoured to diffuade the captain and his peo-
ple from going ; obferving, " That tlie country was
" inhabited by people who were not fubjeft to Toota-
" hah, and who would deftroy them alk*' Notwith-
ftanding, they refolved to put their defigns into execu-
tion, loadmg their piftols with ball ; fo at laft he ven-
tured to go with them. Having rowed till it was
dark, they reached a narrow iftifimus which fevered*
the ifland in^ two parts, and thefe formed diftinft go-
vernments. However, as they had not yet got inta
the hoftile part of the country, it was thought proper
to go on fliorc to fpcnd the night where Ooratova, \\\e
lady who had paid her compliments in fo extraordinary
a manner at the fort, provided them with a fupper^
and they proceeded for the other government in the
morniog.

They

Round the World,

They afterwards landed in the difl:ri<5l: of a chief
called Maraitata. Thefe people gave the Captain a
very good reception, fold them a hog for a hatr
chet, and furniihcd them with provifions. Though
the country was apparently fertile, very little bread-
fruit was to be found here, a nut called ahee furnifliing
the principal fubftance of the inhabitants.

Being fatigued with their journey, they went tn
board their boat, and landed in the evening on an ifland
which was called Otooareite, to fcek for refreftiment.
Mr. Banks going into the woods for this purpofe,
when it was dark could difcoyer only one houfe,
wherein he found fome of the nuts before mentione4
and a little bread-fruit. There was a good harbour
in the fouthern part of this illand, and the furrounding
country appeared to be extremely fruitful.

When they left the place the chief piloted them over
the flioals. In the evening they opened the bay on the
north-weft fide of the ifland, which anfwered to that
on the fouth-eaft in fuch a manner as to interfeft it at>
the ifthmus. Several canoes came off here, and fome
beautiful women giving tokens that they fliould be
glad to fee them afliore, they readily accepted the in-
vitation. ^They met with a very friendly reception

from the chief, whofe name was Wiverou, who gave
direftions to fome of his people to affift them in drefs-
ing their yiftuals, which were now very plentiful, and
they fupped at Wiverou*s houfe, in company with
Mathiabo. Part of the hpufe was allotted for them to
fleep in, and foon after fuppcr they retired to reft,
Mathiabo having borrovfed a cloak of Mr. Banks«
under the notion of ufing it as a coverlet when he lay
down, made off with it without being perceived,
either by that gentleman or his companipps. How-
ever, new 8 of the robbery being prcfcntly Ijrought

44 Cai»t AiN Cook's FiRS T Vo A Yc E

. them by one of the natives, they fet out in purfuit of
Maihiabo, but had proceeded only a very httle way
before they were met by a perfon bringing back the
cloak which the chief had given up rather through
fear than from any principal of honefly. On their
return they fouud the houfe quite deferted ; and about
four in the rooming, the centinal gave the alarm that
the boa^; was miffing. Capt. Cook and Mr. Banks
were greatly allonilhed at this account, and ran to the
wjiter fide; but though It was a clear ftar-light morning
no boat was to be fcen. Their fituation was now ex-
tremely difagreeable. The party confided of no more
^han four, having with them only one miifquet and two
ipocket piftols, without a fp^re ball or a charge of-
powder.

After having remained fome time in a ftate of anxiety,
arifing from thefe circumftances, of which they feared
the Indians mipht take advantage, the boat which had
been driven away by the tide, returned; and Mr. Banks
and his companions had no fobner brcakfailed than they
departed. This place is fituated on the north fide of
Tiarrabou, the fouth call: peninfula of the ifland, about
five miles eaft from the iflhmus, with an harbour equal
to any in thofe parts. It was fertile and populous, and
the inhabitants every where behaved with great
Civility. . •

Oil Friday the 30th, they arrived at Otahorou,
where they found their old acquaintance Tootahah,
;ypho received them with great civihty, and provided
them a good fupper, and convenient- lodging; and
though rhey had been fo ftiamefully plundered the
lad time they llept with this chief, they fpent the
liight with the greatcft fccurity, none of their cloaths
' nor any other article being miffing the next morn-
ing. They returned to the fort at Port-Royal
/ ^ .' " «' Harbour

Round the, World.

IHarbour on the firft of July, having difcovercd the
liflasd, including both peninUilas, to be about ico railed
in circumference.

On the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excurfion, in order
to trace the river up the valley to its fource, and to re-
[jnark hojv far the country was inhabited along the
■)anks of it. He took. Indian guides with him^ and
ifter having feen houfcs for about fix miles, they came
io one which was faid to be the lad that could be met
ivith. The matter prefented them a ith cocoa-nuts and
)thers fruits, and they proceeded on their walk, after a
lort ftay. They often pafled through vaults formed
)y rocky fragments in the courfe of their journey, in
vhich, as they were toldj benighted travellers fome-
iimes took (belter. Purfuing the courfe 6f the river
^b6ut fix miles farther, they found it banked on both
ides by rocks almoft 100 feet in height, and nearly
terpendicular i a way, however, mioht be traced up
Ihefe precipices, along which their Indian guides would
iave condu(5led them, but they declined the offer, as
[here did not appear to be any thing at the fummit
/hich could repay thsm for the toil and dangers of
ilcending it,

Mr. Banks fought in vain for minerals among
le rocks, which were naked almoft on all fides, but
io mineral fubftances were found. The ftones every
^ here exhibited figns of having been burnt, which
/as the cafe of all the ftones that were found while
/e ftaid at Otahcite, and both there and in the neigu-
[ouring iflands the traces of fire were evident in the
lay upon the hills. ' ■ '

On the 4th, a great quantity of the feeds of water-
lelons, oranges, limes, and other plants, brought
from Rio de Jaaeirg were planted on each fide oi the
^ ' ' ' " - ~ ~ fort,

' il

Captain Cook's FIRST Voyage

fort, by Mr Banks, who alfo plentifully fupplied the
Indians with them, and planted many of them in the ^
woods.

By this time they began to think of making prepa-
rations to depart i but Omao and Oberea, and their
fon and daughter vifited them before they were ready
to fail. The fon of VVaheatua, chief of the fouth-eaft pe-
ninfula, was alfo here at the fame time \ and they were
favoured with the company of the Indian who had!
been (b dexterous as to (leal the quadrant, as beforel
related. The carpenters beine ordered to take down the!
gates and palifadoes of the fort, to be converted into
fire-wood ; one of the natives ftole the ftaple and hookj
of the gatej he waspurfued, in vain, but the property!
•was afterwards recovered, and returned to the owners;
by Tubourai Tamaidc.

Before their departure, two circumftances happened!
which gave Capi. Cook fome uneafinefs. The firft was!
that two foreign failors having been abroad, one ofl
them was robbed of his knife, which as he was en-i
deavouring to recover, he was dangeroufly hurt with al
ftone by the natives, and his companion alfo received al
flight wound in the head. The offenders efcaped, and!
the captain was not anxious to have them taken, as he|
did not want to have any difputes with the Indians.

Between the 8th and pth, two ycjng marines onel
night withdrew themfelves from the fort, and in the!
morninfl were not to be met with. Notice having beenl
given the next day that the (hip would fail that or thel
enfuing day ; as they did not return, Capt. Cook began!
to be apprehenfive that they defigned to remain on ftiorej
but as he was apprifed in fuch acafe no effedual means!
could be taken to recover them wlfhout running a rifquel
of def^roying the harmopy fubfiftlng between the Eng{
'" lift

Round the World.

lufh and the natives, he refolved to wait a day in hopes
?f their returning of their own accord. But as they

^ere ft ill mifling on the tenth in the morning, an cn-
luiry was made after them, when the Indians declared,
Biat they did not propofe to return, having taken re-
fuge among the mountains, where it was impoflible for
[hem to be difcovered ; and added, that each of them
lad taken a wife. In confequcncc of this, it was inti-

lated to feveral of the chiefs that were in the fort with
^he women, among whom were Toubourai Tamaide,

'omio, and Obcrea, that they would not be fuffered to
juit it till the defertcrs were produced. They did not

lew any figns of fear or difcontent> but affiired the

'aptain the marines (hould be fent back. In the mean
lime Mr. Hicks was difpatchcd in the pinnace to bring

'ootahah on board the fhip, and he executed his com-

liflion without giving any alarm.

Night coming on Capt. Cook thought it not prudent
to let the people, whom he had detained as hoftages,
[remain at the fort ; he therefore gave orders to remove
them on board, which greatly alarmed them all, efpe-
cially the females, who teftified the moft gloomy ap-*
[prehenlions by floods of tears. Capt. Cock cfcorted
lOberea and others to th^ ^ip > but Mr. Banks re*
imained on (hore with fome Indians, whom he thought
lit of lefs importance to detain. In the evening one of
the marines was brought back by fome of the natives,
who reported that the other and two of our men who
went to recover them, would be detained while Toota-
i hah was confined. Upon this Mr. Hicks was difpatched
in the long boat with a ftrong body of men to refcue
the prifoners ; at the fame time the Captain told Too-
tahah, that it was incumbent on him to aflift them with
fome of his people, and to give orders in his name,
that the men fliould be fet at liberty ; for that he would
be cxpcded toanfw^r for the event. Tootabah imme-
diately

• I

Captain Cook's first Voyage

diately complied, and this party releafed the meft
without oppofuion.

On the iith, about (even in the nriorning, they re-
turned, but without the arms, which had been taken
from them when they were made;[prifoner ; thefc,
however, being reftpred foonafterj the chiefs on board
were allowed to return, and thofe who had been de-
tained on (hore were alfo fet at libertyi On examining
the deferters it appeared, that the Indians had told the
truth, they having chofen two girls, with whom they
would have remained in the ifland. At this time the
power of Oberea was not fo great as it was when the
Dolphin firft difcovered the iflard. Tupia, whofe
name has been often mentioned in this voyage, had
been her prime minifter. He had a knowledge of
navigation, and was thoroughly acquainted with the
number, fituation, and inhabitants of the adjacent
iflands. This chief had often expreffed a defire to go
with us when we continued our voyage*

On the I "th in the morning he came on board, with
a boy about twelve years of age, his fervant, named
Taiyota, and lequelxed the gentlemen on board, to let
him go with him. As we thought he might be ufeful
to us in many particulars, we unanimoufly agreed to
comply with his requeft. Tupia then went on (hore
for the lad time to bid farewel to his friends, to whom
he gave feveral baubles, as parting tokens of remem-
brance.

Mr. Banks, after dinner, being willing to obtain a
drawing of the Moraia, which Tootahah had in his
pOiTeilion at Eparre, Capt. Cook accompanied him
thither in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solander.
They immediately upon landing repaired to Toota-
hah's houfe, where they were met by Oberea and feve-
ral

^ U N P T fit \Y Khbt *

rai others; A general good ynderftanding prevailed-
Tupia caracback with them, and they promifed to view
the gentlemen early the next day, as they were told they
ihould then fail. .

On the 1 3th, thefe friendly people came very early
on boards and the (hip was furrounded with a vaft
number of canoes, filled with Indians of the lower fort.
Between eleven and twelve We weighed anchor ; and
notwithftanding all the little mifunderftandings between
the Englifti and the natives, the latter, who pofTeffcd a
great fund of godd nature and mu,ch fenfibility, took
ihcir leave, weeping in an affeftionate mannen As to
Tupia, he fupported himfelf through this fcene with a
becoming fortitude. Tears flowed frdm his eyes, it is
true, but the effort he made to conceal them, did him
additional honour. He went with Mr; Banks to the
maft-hcad, and waving his hand, took a laft farewel of
his country.. Thus we departed from OtaheitC| aftCJ*
a ftay of jail three months.

C it A p. V.

An hiflorical and dtfcriptive account of Caheite-^—Of
the iiland and its produ^ions-^Of the inhabitants^*
their drefs — dwellings — manner of living — ^Diverfions
—and difeafe.

PORT Royal bay, in the ifland of Otahcite, W6
found to be within h^f a degree of its real fitua-^
; JIumb. 3» G tioDi

fi^

Captain Cook's first VoVao*

tfon; and point Venus; the northern extremity of this
tiland^ and the caflern part of the bay, lies in 1 44 deg.
Jo min. long. A reef of coral rocks furround the
ifland, for ■ ing fcvcral excellent bays, among which,
and equal to the bcft of them, is Port Royal. The
moft proper ground for anchoring, is on the eaftern
fide of the bay. The (hore is a fine fandy beach, be-
hind which runs a river of frefli water, very conveni-
ent for a fleet of (hips. The face of the country is
▼ery uneven. It rifes in ridges that run up into the
middle of the tfland, where they form mountains which
may be feen at the diftance of fixty miles. The only
parts of the ifland that are inhabited, are the low lands,
lying between the foot of the ridges and the fca. The
houfes do not form villages, but are ranged along the
whole border. Before them are little groups of plan-
tain trees, which f urnifli them w ith cloth. According
to Tupia's account, this ifland could furnifli above 6oco
fighting men. The produce is bread-fruit, cocoa nuts,
bananas, fweet potatoes, yams, jumbu, a delicious
fruit, fugar-cane, the paper mulberry, feveral forts of
figs, with many ether plants and trees, all which the
earth produces fpontancoufly.

The people in general are of a larger make than the
Europeans. The males are moflly tall, and robuil, and
the women above the fize of our Englifli ladies. Their
natural complexion is of a fine clear olive, their fkin
delicately finooth and foft. Their faces in general arc
handfome, and their eyes full of fenfibility. Their
teeth are remarkably white amf regular, and thea:
breath is entirely free from any difagreeable fmell.

They cloath themfelves in cloth and matting of va-
rious kinds : the firft they wear in fine, the latter in
wet weather. The women of a fuperior clafs wear
three pr fovir pieces* One, \rhtch is of confiderable

.length,

11^ o u K THE World.

length, they wrap fevcral times round their waift, ;ind
falls down to the middle of the leg. Two or three
other fhort pieces, with a hole cut in the middle of cach>
are placed on one another, and their heads coming
through the holes, the long ends hang before and be-»i
hind, both fides being open, by which means they
have the free ufe of their armsi

The men*5 drcfa is very fimilar, differing only in this
inftancc, and one part of the garment inflead of falling^
below the knees, is brought between the legs. This
drefs is worji by all ranks of people, tjie only diflinc*
tion being quantity in the fuperior clafs. The boys
and girls go quite naked; the nrft till they are feven or
eight year^ old j the latter till they are about five on
fix.

The natives of Otahcitc feldom ufe their houfe^i but
to fleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they eat in the
open air. Their cloaths ferve them for a covering in
e night. We faw houfes that are general receptacles
.. the inhabitants of a diftrift, many of them being
more than 200 feet iii length, 40 in breathy and 70 op
80 feet high.

Their cookery cpnfifts cftiefly in baking, the manner
of doing which has been noticed. When a chief kilU
a hog, he divides it equally among his vaflals. Whca
the bread "fruit is not ia Icafon, cocoa-nuts, bananas,
and plantains, are fubftituted in their (lead. They bake
their bread-fruit in a manner which renders it fojncwhas
like a mealy potatoe. Of this three diflies are made,
by beating them up with bananas, plantiains, or four
pafte, which is called by them raahie.

The chief cats generally alone, unleft when vifited
by a ftranger. Not having known the ufe of a table^

they

J»

Captain <2ook*8 ?jr»t VoaVc?

they fit on the ground, and 1 ves of trees (pread be-
fore them ferve as a table cloth. They then begin
their meals with the ceremony of waftiing their mouths
and hands; after which tliey eat a handful of bread-
fruit and fi(h, dipt in fait water alternately, 'till the
whole is confumed, taking a fjp of fait *vater between
almoft every mprfel. The bit adr fruit a,nd filh is fuq-
ceeded by the fecond courfe. During this time a foft
fluid of piafte is prcpare4 from the breadrfruit, which
they dnnk out of cocoa-nut ftiells : this concludes the
meal ; and their hands ai;id mouths are again waihed a^
at the beginning.

Onp of the worft euftoms of the people of Otaheite
|8, that TJ^hich feveral of the pjrincipal people of the
ifland have adopted of uniting in an aflbciation, where-
in no woman confines herfelf to any particular man»
hj which ipieans they obtain a perpetual £()ciety.
The fnembcr? have meetings where the men. amuw
thefffeives with wreftling, and the women dance the
tiruprodee, in fuch a manner, as is moft likely to ex-
cite the defires ojf the other fex, Sind which were fre*.
quently gratified in the ^ITembly* A much worfe prac-
tice is the confcquence of this. If any of the women
prove with child, the infant is dcftroyed, unlcfs the
mother's natural affe^ion* iftiould prevail with her to
preferve its life, which, however, is forfeited unlefs fhe
can procure a man to adopt it. And where (he fuc-
ceeds in this, flie is expelled from the fociety, being
called WhaniJownow, which fignifies the beiirer of chil?
^ren, by way of reproach. ' ' .

Soon after our ai:rival at Otaheite, we were ap.«
prifed of the natives having the French difeafe among
them. The iffanders call it by a name expreflive of
jts effects, obfcrving that the hair and nails of thofe

who Wfrc iirft.infefted by it, fell off, and the flefh rot*

«■- ■••^ ■•■—•■ ■ . .. - . . ■ . ^^^

|i D N D THE Wo R L D.

ted from the bonesj \yliile their countrymen, f^nd even
ncarc(l relations, who were upaffefted, were fo mucl^
terrified at its fymptoms, that the unhappy fufFerer. was
often forjfakeu oy tliem, aud left. to perifli ia the mof^
niifeiable condition.

•wwr^MB

C H A P» n

The Endeavour continues her voyage — ^Vifits the iflands
in the neighbourhood of Otaheite — An account 6i
feveral inciilents, and of various particulars relative to
the inhabitants — The paflage of the Endeavour frotn
Oteroah to New Zealand — Events on going afliorc,
and incidents while tne (hip was in Poverty Bay-^
The country deicribed — Excurfions to Cape Turna-
gain, and return to Tolaga-^ — The inhabitants de-
icribe^d, and a narrative of what happened ^yhile we
v/ere on that part of the coaft — The range from
Tolaga to Mercury Bay — Incidents that happened
on board the Jindeavour and afhore — A defcription
^f the country — Sail from Mercury Bay to the !^^y
of Iflands— Def9ripiion of the Indians on the banks
of the Thames — Intervie and (kirmiUies with the
natives — Range froni the bay of Iflands round North
Cape.

ON the t3th of July, 1769, after leaving the iflahd
of Otaheite, we conpnued our courfe, with
clear weather and a gentle breeze ; and were informed
by Tupia, that four iflands which he called Huaheinc,
yiicta, Ocaha, and Bolabola, were at the dillance

' of

J4 .Captain Cook's first VoYAot

bf about one and two days fail; and that hogs, fowls,
and other refrelhments, very fcarce on board, where to
be got there in great abundance. On the 15th we
inade but little way, on acco.unt of the calms which
fucceeded the light breezes. Tupia often prayed to
his God Tane for a wind, and boalttd of his faccef*,
which indeed he took care to infure, by never applying
to Tane, till he faw a breeze fo near, that he knew it
mull reach the (bip before his prayeij was concluded.

On the 16th we founded near the north- weft part of
the ifland of Hus^heine, but founid no, bottom ai 70 fa-
thonns. Several of the canoes put off; but the Indians
feemed fearful of corning near the bark till the fight <?f
Tupia removed their apprehenfions. They then came
along fide, and the king of the illand, with his queen,
came on board,. They feemed furprized at every thing
that was (hewn them, but made no enquiries after any
thing but what was offered to their notice. After fome
time they became more familiar ; and the king, whofe
name was Oree, as a token of amity, propofed ex-
changing names with Captain Cook, which was readily
accepted*

Having anchored in a fmall harbour, we went on
fhore with Mr. Banks and fome other gentlemen, ac-
companied by the-king and Tupia. As foon as we land-
ed, Tupia uncovered himfelf aslow as the waift, and
jdefired Mr Monkhoufe to do the fame. Being feated
he now began a fpeech, or prayer, which lafted about
twenty minutes ; the king, who ftood oppofite to him,
anfwering in what feemed fet replies. During this
harangue, Tupia delivered, at different limes, ahand^
kerchief, a black filk neckcloth, feme plantains, and
two bunches of feathers, all wh'.ch wc carried on
board. Thefe ceremonies were confidered as a kind

• of

RouiiD tHE WorldV

[of ratification of a peace between us and the king of
luahcine.

On the 17th we went again on (here, and made art'
[excurfion into the country, th6 produftions of whicl^
[greatly refembled thofe of Otaheite ; the rocks and
[clay feemed, indeed, more burnt : the boat houfes
were curious and remarkable large. ^ The level part of
[the country affords the moft beautiful landfcapes that
[the imagination can poITibly form an idea of.

On the 19th we offered the natives fome hatchets,
[for which w e procured three very large hogs. As we
(intended to fail in the afternoon, king Oree, and others
[of the natives came on board to take their leave.
[Capt. Cook prefented to Oree, a pewter plate, (lamped
[with this infcription, " His Britannic Majefty's Ihip
Lndeavour, Capt. Cook, commander, 16th July, i;bg.*'
We gave him alfo fome medals, refembling our E.ig-
\\(h coin, which he promifed to keep, in order to re*
[member us. .

On the 20th, by the dire£^ion of T upia, we s nchor-

cd in a bay, formed by a reef, on die north fide of the
jifland. Two canoes foon came off from the fhdre, and

the natives brought with them two Imall hogs, ^' hich
I they exchanged for fome nails and beads. The ca^^, iin,
I Mr. Banks, and other gentlemen now went on (hore,
I accompanied by Tupia, who inirovluced ihem with the
I fame kind cf ceremonies that had taken place on their
[landing at Huaheine; after which Capt. Cook took,

pofliffion of this and the three neighbouring iflands,
iHuaheine ; Otaha, and Bolabola, in the name of his

Britannic Majcfty.

On the 21 ft the mafter was fent to infpcft the fou-
thern part of the iQand, and a lieutenant was dil'patched

*$(S Captain C6bK*s first' VofAol

in tjie yarui to found the harbour where the Endeavour
lay. While the Captain went in the pinnace, to take
a vifew of that part of the ifland which lay to the
northward. Mr. Bank^ and the gentlemen went again
on fhore, trading with the natives^ and fearching after
the produ(Jlions and curiofities of the country.

■irhc hazy weather dnd brilk gales prevented us from
getting under fail till the it4th, when we put to fea,
and (leered northward witiiin the reef, towards an
opening, at the diftance of about fix leagues, in efFejft-
ing which we were in danger of ftriking on a rock,
the man who founded, crying out on a fudden, ** two
fathoms,'* which could not but alarm us greatly ; but
either the itiafter was miftaken, or the (hip went along
the edge of a coral rock, many of which in the neigh-
bouihoodof thefe iliands are as deep as a wall.

The bay where the endeavour lay at dnchdr^ called
Oopoa, is capacious enough to hold a great nurnber of
(hipping, and fecured from the fea by a reef of rocks.
Its lituation is off the eaftermoll part of the ifland.
The pfovifions confift of cocoa-niits, yartis, plantains,
and a few hogs and fowls. The country round about
the place where we landed, was not fo plentiful as at
Otaheite or Huaheine. The fouthermofl opening in
The reef, or channel into the harbour, by which we
entered, is litde more than a cable's length wide ) it lies
Cff the eaftermoft point of the ifland, and may be found
by a fmall woody ifland, which lies to the fouth ea(t of
k, called Oatara } north-weft from which are two other
iflots called Opururu and Tamou. Between thefe is
the channel through which we v.eni out of the harbour,
and it is a full quarter of a mile wide.

■'' On the 25th we were wiriiin a league or two or the
ifland oi Otoha -, but could rot get near enough to the
'^ land

indeavour li
e, to take
lay to the
vent again
;hing after

ed us from
ut to Tea,
iwards an
, in effejft-
>n a rock,
an, " two
:atly ; but
went along
the Rcigh-
ill.

tTNB tittfi WdRtD,

ind, the wind hairing jproved cohtrarjTi tn the ihorn*
ig Mr. Banks arid Dr; Solander went in the long-boat
,/ith the niaftef, in order to foUnd a harbour on the eaft
ide of the ifland, which they found fafe and conveni-
Int. We then Went t>ri ihore and purchafed a l^ge
Juantity of plantains, and forte hbgs and fowls. Thd
)roduce of this ifland was much the fame with that of
Tiieta, bat fecmcd to be more barren.

We tlien made fiiii to the horlhwar^ an3 at cigtit
'clock on the 29th, We were under the high peaks ot
lolabola. We found the iflarid maccellible in this
)art. Oh the 30th, ws difcovercd an ifland which
*upia called Maurua, but faid it was fmall, furrounded
)y a reef, and without comriiddious harbour, but in-
labited, and nearhr yield the fame produce as the
Idjaccnt iflands* hi the aftcinoorii finding ourfelves
b wihd^Ji :ird of fomc harbolir that lay on the weft fide*
if l^lieta, w'e intcftded to put into one of them, in order
[0 flop a leak TVfiich had fpltmg In the powder room.
The wind being right againfl us, we plied on arid off
[ill the afternoon of the ifl of Auguf!, when we tame
bo an anchor in the entrance of the channel^ \vhich led
Into one of fhe harbours.

6n tO^edricifday the and, when the tii(i ftiifned, W
lanie into a proper place for mooring, in 28 fathom.
Many of the natives came off', and brought hogs, fowls
md plantains. Which were purchdfed u|)ota moderate
terms; Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander Went on Ihore,.
„id fpent thd day very agreeably j the natives fhewed
them greAt rcfpeft : being conduced to the hot^s of
th6 chief people. In orie houfe they obfervea fomc
Very young girls drefTcd in the tieateft manner, who
tept their places waiting for the flrangers to accoft
Ithem; thefe girls were the- mofl beautiful the gcntkii
ffiieri had erer feen.

n iq

I»

Captain Cook's first Voyaoi

In one of thefe houfes we were entertained with a «|
dance. The performer put upon his head a large
piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylin-
drical form, covered with feathers, and edged round
with fhark's teeth. With this head-drefs he began to
^ance with a flow motion ; frequently moving his head
fo als to defcribc a circle with the top of his wicker-
cap, icilid fometimes throwing it fo near the faces of the
bye-danders as to make them jump back; this they
confidered as an excellent piece of humour, and it
always produced a hearty laugh, when pra£tifed upon
dny of the Englifh gentlemen.

On Saturday the 5th, fome hogs and fowls, and fe-
Veral large pieces of cloth, many of them being fifty or
iixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plan-
tains and cocoa-nuts, were fent to Capt. Cook, as a
prefent from the Earee Rahie of the ifland of Bolabola,
accompanied with a meflage importing that he was then
on the ifland, and intended waiting on the captain.

On the 6th, the king of Bolabola did not vifit us
agreeable to his promife ; his abfence, however, was
tiot in the leaft regretted, as he fent three young wo- .^j
men to demand fomething in return for his prefent.
After dinner, we fet out to pay the king a viilt on fliore.
As this man was the Earee Rahie of the Bolabola inan,
who had conquered this, and were in dread of all the
neighbouring iflands, we were greatly difappointed, in-
ilead or finding a vigorous enterprifing young chief, to
fee a poor feeble old dotard, half blind, and finking
under the w eight of age and infirmities. He received
us without either that ftate or ceremony which we had
hitherto met with ampng other chiefs.

On Wednelday the oth, having (lopped a leak, and
taken en board a freih ftock of provifions, we failed

out

Round the World,

.at of the harbour : and though we were feveraj, leagues

iiftant from the ifland of Bolabola, Tupia earneftly in-

rreatedCapt. Cook, that a ftiot might be fired towards

It ; which, to gratify him, the captain complied witl^-

It was fuppofed to have been intended by Tupia as a

nark of his refentment aga^ioft the inhabitants of that

>lace, as they had formerly taken, from him large pot

sifions which he held in the iflaad of Ulietea, of which

land Tupia was a native, and^afubprdinajte chief, bu]t

ns driven out by thefe warriors^

Being detained, longer at Ulietea iji: repairing the (hip
^lan we expefted, we did no goon^lhore at Bolabola;
^ut after giving the general name, of the Qoqiety Iflands,
> the iflands. &aheine, Ulietea». Bolabola, Otaha, and
laurua, which. Ues.between. the latitude of i^ deg. lo
jin. and i$:deg. 55 min. fouth, wepurfued Qurcourfii
landing fouthwardly for an ifland, to which, wcj. wers
lire^ed by Tupia, at above 1 00 leagues diflant. This,
ire difcovered on the 13th, and, wer(^ informed, by hinii
was called Obiterea.. ' . ' -

Gn the i4tl\ we flood in for land^ and faw. fevcral o£
the inhabitants coming along the fhore. One of th©
Wtenantswas-difpatched in the pinnace to found for;
mchorage,. and, to. obtaia what intelligence could be-
,rot from the natives concerning any land, that might:
50 farther to the ibuth.^. !Mr.. Banks, Dr. Sola^der andj
Tupia went with the lieutenant in. the boat«. When.
Ihcy approached the fliore,. tUey obferyed, that they
Indians were armed with long lances,. J^ niimber; of '
jhem were foon drawn togetlicr oa the beach,, and, two;
umped into the water, endeavouring to gain the boat,
)ut fhe foon left them, and fome others that had made
bhe fame attempt, far enough behind her. Having'
loubled the point where they intended to land, they,:
)pcned a large bay, and faw another party of the na-
tives

Captain Cook'$ ?irst Voyage

tives (landing at the end of it, armed like thofe whova ,
they had fecn before. Preparations were then pa4e for]
landing, qn wl^ich a canoe full of Indians made off to- 1
"wards them. Qbferving this, Tupia received orders
to acqnaipt them that the Engliih did npt intend to
offer them violence, but meant ^o ti^afEc with them]
for nails, which were produced. Thus informed they I
fame along fide the boat, and ^aok fome nails that
were given them, being, (eemin^ly well p)(2<^^c(i "v^itli
ihe prefent. Yet, a few minutes after, ^hefe people !
toarded the boat, defigning to, drag her on more ; |
but fom^ mufqucts |)e|ng difcharged oyer their heads, |
they leaped into the fea, and haying reached the canoe,'
put back with all poffible expeditiop, joining their |
^ountrymen Vhp ftood ready to re<;ei,ve them^. Tlic|
boat immediately purfued the fugitive, but the crewj
finding the furf extremely violent, did no% venture to
Jand there, but coafled along fliiore tp try if they <;bul4|
iiot find a more convenient place. I

Soon after the canoe got on fhore, a man pppofite
the boat flourifhed his weapon, calling out at the i^roQ>|
time with a (hrill voice, which ^as a p^ark of defiance
as 'tupia explained it to the EngUlh.-r-N9t being able 1
to find a proper landing-place, they return,ed, with an
intention to attempt it where the canoe went on ihore j
whereupop another warrior repeated the defiapce : hi^ |
appearance wa& more i^ormidable tlfan that of the
other. When he thought fit to retire, a grave man
came forward, who afked Typi^ fevcral queftions, re-
lating to the pJace from, whence the veiTel <;ame, as
Who were the perfons on board? Whifher they v^re
bound I &c. After this i; was propofed tliai; the peo-
pie in the boat ftiould go on (hore and. trade with them
ti they would lay afide th^eir >y.eapotis ; but the latter
Vrould not agree fo this, uijlefs the Ewglilh woul4; do
|I^e like. As this propofal v^as 1?y no ^eans an equal^
'■ ■'- '"v ' - '•• ■' f 0»e^

EouNp TJTB World.

venture to

one , when it was confidertt^ that the hazard miift for
inany reafons be greater tc the boat's crew than the
Indians, and as perfidy wag dreaded, it was not com-
plied with. Befides, fince n^uther the bay which the
fcndeavour entered, nor any other part of the iflaml
furniftied goo4 harbour or archorage, i^ was refolvcd
not to attempt landing any more, but to (Hil from
iience to tl\e fouthwurdf

On the 15th, we failed from this ifland with a fine
\)reezei but on the i6th it was hazy, and we bore
away for whatrefembled very high peaks of land. The
weather clearing up, we were convinced of our mif-
take, and refumed our courfe accordingly. Land was
difcovered at Weft by North, on the 7th of O^ober,
and in the morning of the 8th, we came to an anchor
oppofite a (mall river, not abovq h^ a league from the
coaft.

Capt. Cool^, Mr* Banks. Dr. Solandcr, and fome
other gentlemen, having left the pinnace at the
mouth of the river, proceeded a little further up, whei;i
we landed, leaving the yawl to the care of fome of our
boys, and went up to a few fmall houfes in the ncigh-
\)ourhood. Some of the natives that hA concealed
thenjfelves in the neighbourhood took advantage of our
abfencc from the boj\t, and rufhed out, i dvancing and
Jirandifliing their long wooden lances, Qn this our boy
propped down, the ftream. The cockfwain of the pin-^
nace th^n fired a mufquetoon over their heads, but it
did not prevent them from following the boat, in con-»
(equence of which he levelled his piece, and (hot one
of them dead on the fpot. Struck with aftonifliment
an the death of their companion, the others remained!
inotionlcfs for fome time, but as foon as they recovercci
ffom their fright, retreated to the woods with the ut-^
poll precipitation* The report of the gan brought tho

advanced

Captain Cook's fir\t Voayce

^advanced party back to the boat, and both the pinnace
and yawl returned immediately to the (hip.

On the 9th, a great number of natives were ieen
©ear the place where the gentlemen in the yawl had
landed the preceding evening, and the greateil part of
them appeared to be unarmed. The long-boat, pin-
nace, and yawl, being manned with marines and Tailors,
Capt. Cook and Tqpia went on flibre, and tanded on
the oppolite fide of the, river, over-»gainft a fpot were
feveral Indians were fitting on the ground.^ They im-
mediately flarted yp, and began to handle their wea-
pons, each producing cither a k)ag pike, or a kind of
truncheon made of Itono, with ^ firing through the
handle of it, which they twiftcd round their w rifts.
Tupia was dire£led to fpeak to them in his language ;
and we were greatly furprifed t-o find that he was well
underftood, the natives {peaking in his language^ tho*
in a different dialed. Their intentions at firft appeared
to be very hoilile, brandishing their weapons in the
iifual threatening manner 5 upon which a muiket was
fired at fome diflance: the ball happened to fall into the
water, at which they appeared rather terrified, and de-
filled from their menaces. Having now drawn up the
marines, we advanced nearer to the fide of the river,
Tupia, again fpeaking, informed them of our defire
to traffic with them for provilioos : to this they con-»
fented, provided we would go over to them to the
other fide of the river. The propofal was agreed to,
upon condition that the natives would quit their wea-
pons ; but the moll: folemn afTurances of friendftiip
could not prevail with them to make fuch a confeffion,
' Not thinking it prudent therefore to crofs the river, we
in our turn, intreated the Indians to come over to u, ,
and after f9me time prevailed on one of them fo to do.
He was prefently followed by others. They did tot
appear tp value beads and iron which we offered in the

way

R O U M D T H £ W O R L D* ^^

way of barter, but propofed to exchange their wea-
pons for ours ; which being obje6led to, they endea-
voured to fnatch our arms from us, but being on our
guard, from the information given us by Tupia, that
they were ftill our enemies ; and Tupia by our direc-
tion gave them to underftand, that any further offers
of violence wouM be punifhed with inftant death. One
of them, neverthe efs, had the audacity to fnatch Mr.
[Green's dagger when his back was turned to] them, and
retiring a rew paces, flourifhed it over his head; but
his temerity colt him his hfe; for Mr Monkhoufe
iired amufquet, and he inftantly dropped. Soon after
tho* not before we had difcharged our pieces, they
[retreated "flowly up the country, and we returned to
lour boat.

The behaviour of the Indians, added to our want of
Ifrelh water, induced Capt. Cook to continue his voyage
liound the bay, with a hope of getting fome of the na-
lites aboard, that by civil ufage he might convey
through them a favourable idea of us to their country-
len, and thereby fettle a good cor rcfpondencc with them.
iTi event occurred which, though attended with difa-
^reeable circumftances, promifed to facilitate this do-
lign. Two canoes appeared, making towards land, and
^apt. Cook, propofed intercepting them with our boats.
)ne of them ^ot clear off, but the Indians in the other,
lading it impoHible to efcape, began to attack our peo-.
5le in the boats with their paddles. This compelled
Endeavour's people to fire upon ihem, when four
>f the Indians were killed, and the other three, who
[were young men, jumped into the water, and endea^
souring to fwim alhore ; they were, however, taken
ip, ar conveyed on board. At iird they difcovered
ill the figns of fear and terror, thinking they fhould
killed i but Tupia by repeated aflurances of friend-*
np, removed their apprehenfions, and they afterwards
:at heartily of the (hip's provifions. Having retired to

reft

04 CAPtAiH Cook's Finst VotacIe

iefk. in tiie evening, tliey ftept Very quietly for fonie
hours, but about midnight^ their fe^rs returning, they
Uppeared in great aeitation, frequently making loud
And dirdal groans, again the kind carefTes and friend-
ly pronniires of Tupia operated fo eiicAually, that they
becanle cairn, and Cung a fongj which at the dead of
night hid a pileaftng effeft. The next ntorning; after
they were drefled according to the mode of their coun-
try, and were ornamented with necklaces and bracelets,
preparationil were niade fop fending therri td their
coimtryttten, at which they expYeffed great fatisfa(^?on ;
but finding^ the boat approaching Captain Cook's f)rfl
landing-place^ they intimated that the inhabitants were
foes, and that after kiHlng their enemies, they always
eat thcnrtj

The daptain, hevertlieiefs, judged it expedient to
iand near the fame fpot, which he accordingly did with
Mr. Banks, DoAor Solander, and Tupia^ refolding at
the fanne time to prote<ft theyduths from any injury that
might be offered them. Thefc had fcaiCcly departed
on their return to their friends^ when two large parties
of Indians advanced haftily towards thent, lipon which
they again ftew to us for prote^ion. When ine ftidians
drew near one of the boys difcovered his ancle among
them, and a converfation enfued acrofa- the river, tu
which the boy gave a juft account of oiir hofpitality,
and took great paiQs to difplay his finery.

k fttott tinie afte^ this converfation* the Uncle fwan>
acrofs the river, bringing with hirii a green bough, a
token of friendlhip, which we received as fuch, and
feveral prefeiits were made them. Hotwithftanding
tiw prefents of this relation^ all three of the boys, by
their qwn defire, rerurned to the fliip, but as the cap-
tain intended to fail the neXtmorning, he fent them
•fltiore in the evening, though jftuch againft their incli-l

oation.

Round the World.

nation. They informed us of a particular kind of deer
upon the ifland.

On the nth, at fix o'clock in tlie morning, we
weighed and fct fail, in hopes of finding a better an-
choring place, Capt. Cook having givcu .he bay, the
name or Poverty Bay. In the afternoon vye were
becalmed ; and fcveral canoes full of Indians came ofF
from the fhore, who received many prefents, and af-
terwards bartered even their cloiiths, and fome of their
paddles, (0 eager were they at European commodities.
The Indians were armed with bludgeons made of
wood, and of the bone of a large animal j they were
conyived for clofe fighting.

liaving finiflied their traffic, tiicy fet off in fuch
a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions,
who remained on board all night. Thefe telUficd their
Fears and apprehehfions, notwithftandin?j Tupia took
great pains to convince them they were in no danger j
imd about feven o'clock the iiext morn'ng, a canoe
came off / Ith four Indians on board. It was at firft
with dilLr.ly the Indians in the lliip could prevail on
thofe in the canoe to come near them, and not till after
the former had afTured them, that the Englilh did noc
eat men.

On the 1 2th, feveral Indians came off in a canoe, and
at times appeared tobepeaceably inclined, but at ochers
to menace hoftilities, brandiftiing iheir lances, and other
hoftile gcftures. A four-pounder loaded with grape
flidr, was therefore ordered to be fired, but not pointed
at them. This had the defired effeft, and made them
drop a-flern.

On Friday the 13th in the morning, we made for an
iniet, but finding' it not flieltered, flood gut again j and ,■

I were' ■

~ i

».;*1

*i' I

i(s

Captain Go6k's first Vo-^k^t

■#crc cliaccd by a! canoe filled with' Indra'HS, li)tit tKc EVi-
deavour out-failed them. She purfued her cotnrfe rotmd
the bay, but could not find an opening. Nine canoes
Tull of Injdiahs came from the Ihore, andflve of them
ftfrer HaVinfg conftilttd toge'i!hir, purftied the Endea-
Voiir, appafently with a hoftile defrgri. Tapizt was de-
fii-ed to acqttiaint them, that immediate deltftrftioh would
^nfue, if they perfevered ia: thfeir attempts; but words
had no influeiiccV a^rid a four-pounder, with grape-lhot
iN2^ fir(id. They were terrified at tliiii hti of reafbn-
feig, and wcnia-vi'ay fofter than they citnie.

On the iotfi, we anchored m a bay ttvo leagiieis to
the north of the Foreland. To this bay We wf -- in-
vited by the natives in canoes, v;hr> behaved vei^ • ..li-
cably, and pointed td a place where they fiiid we fliould
find ^feiity of frefh ^ater. We dfcterrairied here to
get fornfc kiiowlcidge of the country, though the har-
boui: was not fo good a ihelter frbrii the \Veather as we
ejipfe&td. Two chiefs, whonl t^e faw in the canoes,
came 6n board, they wei-e drefled in jafckets, the one
brmciited with tiiftji of red foath^rs, the othei- with
dog-lHris. We pefehted to then! tiiieii and fdniefpike
nails, but they did riot value the laft fo much as the
inhabitants df the cfthttsiflands.

Towards the pvening we went on llidre, accompani-
ed by the Captain and Dr. SoJander. We were cour-
tfcoufty received by ihe inhabitantis. who did not appear
in numerous b''idie3, and in other iriftancc;i were fcrupu-
}oufly att^Dtivfe not ro give oftence. We made chem
'fe^e^l fiiifall pi-eiPetits, arid In this agreeable totir round
the bay, w^ n*ad the pleafure of finding two Itrieariis of
frelh water. We remained on Ihore all night, and th'.
next day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr difcovcred feve-
tal large bii-di ao^bhg which were quails and large
pigeons. Mahy ifeges for drying fllh were obfcrved

near

PtOUND TH^E W0RI.D.

were cour-

Begr where we landed, and fo^e hoiifes with .fences.
Wefaw dogs with pplnt^d ears, and very ugly. $we^t
potatoes, life thflfe \yhich gro.w in America were found.
The cloth pljipt grow fpontaneous. ^n tl^e neigl^^o^r*
ing valleys the lands were laid put in regular planti^tions ;
anti in the bay we bought plenty of crabs, qr^y-fifli ap4
ihorfe-mack^rql, larger th^n thofe on tlie Englifli qo-4.iis,
i he low l^nds were planted with cacoeis ; the hollows
,wi?h gourds ; but as to the woods they were almoft im-
,paflible. on ^qcouPt of the nuuiber of fupple-jjacks which
grew there. "We went intaYeveiialhoufcsibelpnging t)t>
the. natives, and met .with a very civil reception j and,
;Without the kaft refer ve, they, me wed us whatever we
defired to fee* At times we found them at their meals,
which our prefence never int€rrupt<=;d. At this feafoa
fifli con(lituted thqir.chiqf food ; wi^h which they eat,
inftead of bread, roots of a kind. of fearn; thefe when
roafted upon a fire arefweet and clammy : in tafte nqt
difagreeable^ thpugh.r«ther upiple.afant from the number
of their fibres. They have doubtlefs in other :feafons,
pf the year an abundance of excellent vegetables..

The women of this place paint their faces with a mixr
ture of red ochre and oil, which, as they are very plain,,
renders them in appe^rjince more homely.. Thiskind '
of daubing being generally wet upon their cheeks and
foreheads, was eafily .transferred to thofe who fainted
them, as was. frequently viiible upon the nofes of our
people. The young ones wIk) were completecoquetp,
wore a. petticoat, under which v/as a girdle, made or,
the blades of gcafs^ ftrongly perfumed, to which was
pendant a fmall bunch of lea,vcs, of fome fragrant plant.
The faces of the men were not in general painted j but -
they were daubed with dry red ocre from head, to foot,
their apparel not excepted. Though in perfonal clean-.'
linefs they. were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, yet
iofomc particulars they furpailed them: for their dwcl-

lincs

Captain Gook*s first Voyage

lings were furnifhed with privies, and they had dunghill?
upon which their offals and filth were depofited. Among;
the females chaftity was lightly efteemed. They refort-
ed frequently to the watering-place, where they freely
beftowed every favour that was requefted. An officer
meeting with an elderly \y6man, he accompanied her to
her houfe, and having prefenteJ her with Tome cloth
and beads, a young girl was fingled but, with whom he
was given to underfland he might retire. Soon after ah
elderly man, with tw6 women came in as Vilitors, who
with much formality faluted the whole tom|5any, after
the cuftomof the place, which is by gently joining th(^
tips of their nofcs together. On his return, which
was on Saturday the 21ft, he was furnilhed with a guide
who, whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, took
him on his back to prevent his being wet. Many of
the natives were curioufly tatao^ed, an old man in par-
ticular. Was marked on the breaft. with curious figures.
Thefe Indiana at flight dance in a ^/ery uncouth manner,
with antic geflures, idlliiig cJut their tongues and making
ftrange grimaces. In their dances, old men as vvell aB
the young ones are capital performers.

On the 2 2d in the evening, we weighed anchor and
put to fea, but the wind being contrary we ftood for ano-
ther bay a little to the fouth, called by the natives To-
laga, in order to com'pleat our wood and water, and to
extend our correfpondence with the natives. We found
a watering-place in a fmall cove a little within the ibuth
point of the bay, which bore fouth by eaft, dillant about
ii mile. Several canoes with Indians on board, traffick-
ed with us very fairly for glafs bottles.

On Monday the 23d in the afternoon, we went on
fliore accompanied by Mr. Banks, l)r. Solander, and the
captain. We examined and found the water extremely
goodj airo plenty of wood j and the natives fliewed us

r> ■ -< 'as

HoiTND THE World.

IS much civility as thofe from whom we had lately de-
>arted. At this watering-place we fet up an aftronomir-
^al quadrant, and took feveral folar and lunar obferva-
[ions. la our walks through the vales we faw many
loufes uninhabited, the natives refiding chiefly in fheds,
)r the ridges of the hills, which are very deep. The
lill are cloathed with beautiful flowering llirubs, inter-
lixed with a number of tall, fl.ately palms, which per-
fume the air, making it perfeftly odoriferous. We met
Urith various kinds of edible herbage in great abundance
md many trees which produced fruit fit to eat. Sweet
potatoes and plantains are cultivated near the houfes.

On our return we met an old man who entertained

^s with the military exercife of the natives, which are

krformed with Patoo-Patoo and the lance. The for-

ler has been already mentioned, and is ufed as a battle

ce; the latter is j 8 or 20 feet in length, and made of

jtreme hard wood, andfliarpened at earh end. A (lake

hs fubftituted for a luppofed enemy. The old warrior

frft attacked him with his lance, advancing with a mod

iriijus afpcQ:. Having pierced him, the paioo-patoo

'as ufed to demolilh his head, at which heftruck with

force which would at one blow have fplit any man's

Lull } from whence vye concluded no quarter was givea

ly thefe people to their foes in time of action.

I 7 he natives in thefe parts are very numerous. They
[re tolerably well fhaped, but lean and tall. Their fa-
jes refemble thofe of the Europeans. Their nofes are
jqualine, their ,eye3 dark coloured, their hair black,

fhich is tied up to the top of their heads, and the mens
[eards are of a moderate length. Their tataowing is
[one very curioufly, in various figures, which makes

leir Hiin refemble carving ; it is confined to the princi-
[al men, the females and fcrvants ufmgonly red paint,

with

ff> C A P J A;U5I ;C.O K 'S F I R S T V [oy A G jE

with which they 44vib their .C^aces, th^t.oth^rvvife vt^ouldf
■cor the ^ifegreeahle.

On the 25th we fet up the armourers fprge on (horea
,for neceflary ufes, andgot our wood and water wi^houtf
rthe lead moleftation from the natives, with whom we
-exchanged glafs bottles and:be^ds for diiferent forts 0(1

Gn the a7th, Capt. Cook and- Dr. Solander .went tG|
-infped the bay, when the dodor wasnot a liule furpri-
fed to find the natives in the poileflion of a boy's topj
which they knew hpw to fpin by whipping it, and hef
-purchafed it out of curiofity Mr. Banks was during this!
employed in attaining the fummit of a (Veep hill, that hadl
-previoufly engaged their attention, jind near it he found?
many inhabited houfes. When the gentlemen met at|
the watering-place, tlic inhabitants fang their war fongi
•which was a ftrange medley of (houting-^ndgfiraace, at]
.which the women afllfted. The next dayiCapt.Cookf
And other gentlemen went upon the ifl,and at the cn-i
-trance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was 6jj
feet in length, fix in breadth, and four in height; he]
bottom, which was fliarp, confided of three trunks o(|
trees, and the fides and head were curioufly c^ry^d.

Their huts are built under trees, their form is an obJ
long fquare, the door low on the fide, and, the windowJ
arc in the ends -, reeds covered with thatch compoff
the walls; the beams of the caves, which come to tl
ground, are covered with thatch ; moft of the houfej
had been deferred, through fear of the Englilh, upoi
■their landing. There is a great variety of fifli in tjid
bay, flicll and crny fiHi are very plentiful, fome of thj
latter wei^h 12 pounds.

Sunday^ October the a^tii, we fet fail from this bay!

Round the W o ft. l d.

is fituated in latitutJe 318 4eg. zt rtiin. fottth, four
E'agu6s to the n6rrh of Garble End FofeJaM ; there-
fcc two high recks at the finitrdnce of the bay, whicft
prrri a eove very gciod for jirocuring v/ood apd Wtftdf^
Fhrs is a very hilly coantry, though it prefertis the; cyd
^ith an agreeable verdiire, valrious woods and niany
Ml plantations. Mi*. Banks fotind a great number oB
icH in iht woods, qiiitri unknown to Europeans, thcf
[re dod Mtmhlt the maple-trcfe, and produced a gunrt
t whkirti colour i OtHefr tte6s yielded a gutn of a deep?
Rlto'^ green. The oaly roots S^er6 yarns atild fwee«

)tatoes, though the fptl appears very proper for pto-

icing every ff>6cies of vegetables.

On Monday the ^dth, fditittg to the nor'thward, wcJ
t\\ in with a (inall iftand about a mile diftaht from th4
>rth-^dft point of the mdiri, and this bdng the moft
ffte^rt part of it, the captain narhed it Eaft Cape, and
[e ifiarid Eaft Iflahd ; it was but fmall, and appeared
^rri^ri. The cape is in latitude 37 deg. 42 thin. 30 fee*
path. Having doubled iti*i caiie, riiany villages prefent*
themfelvifes to view, and the adjacent land appeared
jultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant
[icks difcovercd a bay to which his name was givent^
leXt morning about nine, fevferal canoes came oft' from
e ihbre with a number of aritied men, who appeared
have hofti e intentions. Before thefe had reached
he fhip, another canoe, larger than any that had yet
>een feen, full of arrhed Indians, came off, and rrtadfi to-
wards the Endeavour, with great expedition. The
kaptain ilow judging it expedient to prevent, il; poffible,
[heir attiickihg him, ordered a gun to be fired over their
ieads. This not producing the dehred effe6l, another
run wasifired with ball, which threw them irtto fuch
:onfternation, that they imtnediately returiied fafter
hfin they came.

Captain Cook's first Voyags

On the ift of November, not Icfs than between 40
and 50 canoes were feen, feveral of which came off as
before, threatening to attack theEnglifh. One of their
chiefs flourifhed his pike, and made feveral harangues,
fecming to bid defiance to thofe on board the vcffel.
At laft, after repeated invitations, they came clofe along
fide i but inftead of (hewirjg a difpofitioii to trade, the
haranguing chief uttered a fentence, and took up a
ftone which he threw againft the fhip, and irtimediately
after feized their arms. A piece of cloth, however imp-
pening to attrafl: their eyes, they began to be more mild
and rtufonable. A quantity of eray-fifli, nhufcles, and
congerecls was now purchafed. No fraud was attempted
by this company of Indians, but fome others that came
after them, took goods from the veflel without making;
proper returns. Yet when thefe favages began iJ
traffic with the failors, they renewed their frauds j and
one of them was bold enough to feize forrie linen that
was hung to dry, and run away with it. In prdec to
induce him to return, a mufquct was fired over his
head, but this not 'anfwering the end, he was (hot in
the back with fmall fhot, yet he ftill perfevered in hi
defign.

In confequence of their behaviour, tho* they made
no prep::r«:'-'^ns to attack the veffel, the captain gavel
orders to fire a four-pounder, which palT^d over them J
but its effects on the water terrified them fomuch, thai|
they retreated with precipitation to* the (h^re.

In the afternoon, about two o*clock, we difcovered
a pretty high ifland to the weft. Some time after per-
ceiving other rocks and iilands in the fame quarter,
but not being able 10 weather them before night came
on, we bore up between them, and the mainland. In
the evening a double canoe, built after the fame fafliion
as thofc of Otaheite, came up, when T"p»a entered

inwl

Round the World.

friendly converfation with the Indians, and was told
[hat the ifland, clofe to which we lay, was called Mow-
tohora.

The next morning being the 2nd, a number of ca-

joes appeared, and one, which proved to be the fame

fhat pelted us the night before came up. After con-

rerfmg with Tupia, and behaving peaceably about an

iour, they complimented us with another volley of

tones. We returned the falute by firing a mufket,

^hich made them inftantly take to their paddles. Be-

ween ten and eleven we failed between a low flat ifland

nd the main land.

On the 3d, we pafled the night near a fmall ifland,'
rhich Capt. Cook named the Mayor. We now failed
)wards an inlet that had been difcovered, and having
ichored in feven fathom water, the fliip was foon fur-
junded by a number of canoes, and the people on
)ard them did not feem difpofed for fome time to com-
it any a<fls of hofl:ility.

On the 4th at day break no lefs than twelve canoes
iade their appearance, containing near two hundred
len, armed with fpears, lances, and fliones, who
^emed determined to attack the fliip, and would have
)arded her, had they known on what quarter they
)uld bed have made their attack. While they were
iddling round her, which kept the crew upon the
^atch in the rain, Tupia, at the requefl: of the captain,
fed a number of difl'uafive arguments, to prevent their
irrying their apparent defigns into execution ; but wc
)uld not pacify them by the fire of our mufquets ;
ley then laid afide their hoftile intentions, and began

trade ; yet they could not refrain from their fraudu-
bt praftices ; for after they had fairly bartered two

their weapons, they would not deliver up a third.

Numb. 4. K, for

Captmm Cook's first Voyage

t'.. h

for which they had received cloth, and only. laughed at
thofe who demanded an equivalent. The offender was
wounded with fmall Ihotj but his countrymen took not
the leaft notice of him, and continued to trade with-
out the leaft difcompofure*

On the 5th, in the morning, the Indians came off to
the fliip again, who behaved much better than they
had done the preceding day. An old man in particu.
kr, named Tojava, teflified his prudence and honefly,
to whom, and a friend with him^ the captain prefented
fome nails, and two pieces of Englifh cloth. Tojava
informed us, that they were often vifited by free-
booters from the north, who ftripped them of all they
could lay their hands on, and at times made captives
of their wives and children ; and that being ignorant |
who the Englilli were upon their firft arrival, the na-
tives had been much alarmed, but were now iiitisj&ed of|
their good intentions*

On the 8th, we were vifited by feveraT canoes, ini
one of which was Tojava, who, defcrying two canoes,
haftened back to the fhore, apprehending they were
free-booters ; but finding his mjftake, he foon returned;
and the Indians fupplicd us with as much excellent fi(li|
as ferved the whole fhip's company. This day a va-
riety of plants were collefted by Mr. Basks and Dr.|
Solander.

On th€ loth, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and the cap-,
tain went in boats to iufpeft a large river that runs intoj
the bay. They found it 'broader Ibme miles withini
than at the mouth, and interfered into a number ofl
dreams, by feveral fmall iflands, which were covered!
with trees. At the mouth of the river there was good]
anchorage ifl five fathom water. Great plenty ofl

oyftersi

mtmm

Round the World*

)yfters were procured from a bed which had been dif.
:overed, and they proved exceedingly good,

On the i8ih, we (leered between the main, and an
pfland which fcemed very fertile. Several canoes filled

nth Indians, carae along fide, and the Indians fang
their war fong, but the Endeavour's people paying them

10 attention, thev threw a volley of ftones, and then

)addled away ; however, they prefently returned their
infults, Tupia fpoke to them, making ufe of his old
irguments, that enevitable deftruftion will enfue if
jhey perfdled ; they anfwered by brandiftiing their

reapons, intimating, that if the Englifti durft come
ifhore, they would deftroy them all. Tupia ftill jc^'n-
tinued in expoftulating with them, but to no purpofe ;
ind they foon gave another volley of ftones j but upon

mufquet being fired at one of their boats, they made
precipitate retreat. We caft anchor in 23 fathom

rater in the evening, and early the next morning failed
ip an inlet, ,

On the 22d, early in the moraing, we made fail, and
tept plying till the flood obliged us once more to come
to an anchor. The captain and Dr. Solander went on
(horeto the weft, but made no obfervations worth re-,
lating. After the gentlemen departed, the fliip was
lurrounded with canoes, which kept Mr. Banks on
board, that he might trade with the Indians, who bar-.
|ered their arms and cloaths for paper, taking no unfair
advantages. But tho* they were in general honeft in their
iealings, one of them took a fancy to a half minute
>lafs, and being detefted in fecreting the fame, it was
refolved to give him a fmatch of the cat-o*nine-tails.
The Indians interfered to ftop the current of juftice,
)ut being oppofed, they got their arms from the ca-
loes, and fome of the people in them attempted to get
W b<?ard. Mr, Banks and Tupia now coming upon

deck,

Captain Cook's first Voyage

deck, the Indians applied to Tupia, who informed
them of the nature of the offender's intended puniQi-
ment, and that he had no influence over Mr. Hicks, the
commanding officer. They appeared pacified, and the
criminal received not only a dozen, but afterwards a
good drubbing from an old man, who was thought to
be his father. The canoes immediately went off, the
Indians iaying, they Ihould be afraid to return again |
on board.

On the 23d, the weather ftill continuing unfavoura-
ble, and the wind contrary, we kept plying down the
river, anchoring between the tides ; and at the north
weft extremity of the Thames. Not being able to
approach land, we had but a diftant view of the main,
for a courfe of near thirty miles. The country feemed
to be thinly inhabited ; the natives are well made,
ftrong, and aftive; their bodies arc linted with red
ocre, and their canoes, which are well conftrufted,
were ornamented whh caryed work.

On the 27th, we found ourfelves within a mile of
many fmall iflands, laying clofe under the main, at the
diftance of twenty-two miles fron^ Cape Brett. Here
xye lay about two hours, during which time feveral ca-
noes came off from the iflands, which we called Ca-
valles, the pame of fome fifli which we purchafed of I
the Indians, TJiefe people were very infolent, ufing|
many frantic geftures, and pelting us with ftones. Nor
did they give over their infults, till fpmc fmall fliot hit |
one who had ;i flone in his hand,

On the 29th, having weathered Cape Brett, we bore |
?LWay to leeward, and got into a large bay, where we
yprli )rt'd on the fouth-wcft fide of feveral iflands, and

::l:::-y canic into four fathoms and a half water. j
. .. '. ii '^xri'^, we foiiud lye had got upop a bank,

Round t ii l "VY o r l d.

lind ;iccordingly weighed and dropped over ir, and
ichorcd again ia ten fathoms and a half, after which
re were i'ui rounded by 33 large canoes, containing
icar three hundred hidians, armed. Some of them
/ere admitted on board, and Capt. Cook gave a piece
\i broad cloth to one of the cliiefs, and fome fraall
Irefents to the other. They traded peaceably for
)me time, being terrified at the fire-arms, with the ef-
icfts of which they were not unacquainted ; but whilfl
le captain was at dinner, on a fignal given by one of
le chiefs, all the Indians quitted the fhip, and attempt-
tow away the buoy ; a inufquet was now fired over
icm, but it produced no good elTciSt; fmall fliot was
len iircd at them, but it did not reach them. A.
lufquet loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be
red, and Otegoowgoow (fon of one of the chiefs)
IS wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them
^mediately to throw the buoy overboard. The Cap-
In, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, landed up the ifland.
Id the Indians in the canoes foon after came on fliore.
le gentlemen were in a fmall cove, and were prefent-
furrounded by near 400 armed Indians; but the
iptain not fufpe6ling any hoftile defign on the part of
^e natives, remained peaceably cijfpofed. The gen-
;men marching towards them, drew a line, intimating
|at they were not to pafs it: they did not infringe upon
Je boundary for fome tjmej but at lafl, they fang the
|ng of defiance, whilll a party attempted to draw the
ideavour*s boat on fliore; tlicfe fignals for an attack
ting immediately followed by the Indians breaking in
)on |he hne, the gentlemen judged it time to defend
[emfelves, and accordingly the captain fired his muf-
let, loaded with fmall fliot, which was feconded by .
jr. Banks's difcharging his piece, and two of the men
ilio ^ ed his example. This threw the Indians into
nifufion, and they retreated, but were rallied agaim
one of the chiefs, \yhQ Diouted and waved his pa-

too-

Captain Cook's first Voyage

loo-patoo. The Doftor now pointed his mufquet at 1
this hero, and hit him : this Hopped his career, and he
took flight with the other Indians. They were now at]
too great a diftance for a ball to reach them, but thefc
operations being obferved from the Ihip, flie brought
her broad -fide to bear, and by firing over them, fooni
difperfed thera, The Indians had in this ikirmifti two|
of their people wounded, but none killed: pcate being!
thus reftored, the gentlemen began to gather celery!
and other herbs, but fufpefting fome of the native^
were lurking about with evil defigns, they repaired to^j
a cave at fome fmali diftance. Here they found the
chief, who had that day received a prefent from the
captain; he came forthwith his wife and brother, and
folicited their clemency.

In the afternoon the Englifli rowed to another panj
of the ifland, when landing, and gaining an eminenccj
they had a very agreeable and romantic view of a greatf
pumber of fmall iflands, well inhabited and cultivated.

On the 1 5th of December in the morning, we weighj
cd anchor, but were foon becalmed, and a ftrong cur|
rent fetting' towards the Ihore, we V7cre driven in wittl
fuch rapidity, that we cxpe6>ed every moment to m
run upon the breakers, which appeared above watcn
not more than a cable's length diftance, and we wera
fo near the land, that Tupia, who was totally' ignorana
pf the danger, held a converfatioq with the Indians]
who were llanding on the beach. We were happiW
relieved from this alarming fituation by a fre(h brecz^
fuddenly ipringing up from the ftiore^

On the 25th, we ftood to the fouthwar<J, but had m
land in fight, and were twenty leagues to the weftwari
of North Cape. At mid-night it blew a ftorm fron
the ealt, accompanied with heavy iliowcrs of rain

whicli

Round the World.

Ihich compelled us to bring the (hip to, under her
Iain-fail. The gale continued till Thurfd. / the 2.8th,
[hen it fell about two o'clock in the morning; but at
Ight encreafed to a hurricane, with a prodigious fca.
It noon the gale fomewhat abated, but had (till heavy
lualls. On the 29th we wore, and flood to the north
left. On the 31ft we tacked, and ftood to the weft-
lard. We were now to the neareft land about three
igues, and had fomewhat more than forty fathom

Iter.

CHAP.

vu.

le Endeavour continues her voyage to Queen Char*
rlotte*s Sound — ^Tranlaftions in the Sound — A (hock-
ing cuftom of the inhabitants— ^Thc coaft Admiralty^
Bay defcribed— The departure of the Endeavour
from New Zealand, and other particulars — An ac-
count of New Zealand, the inhabitants, and cuftoms-.

Anuary the 1 ft, 1770, we tacked and ftood to the
eaftward : at noon we ftood to the wcftward ;
)und our lat. to be 34 deg. 37 min. fouth; our dif-
^nce from the Three Kings ten or eleven leagues. On
le 3d we faw land ; it was high and flat, beyond the
jach of the naked eye.

On the morning of the 4th, We ftood along fhore.

i'%

Captain Cook*s first Voyage

The coaft appeared fandy, barren, and inhofpitable.
Stbering northward on the 6th we faw land again, which
yre fuppofed to be Cape Maria. We continued ileering
eaft till the 9th, when we were oiFa point of land which
Capt. Cook named Woody Head.

On the 15th 'v^'e fleered for an inlet, it being almofl:
calm, the fhip was carried by a current within a cable's
length of the fborc ; but by the afliftance of the boats
file got clear. At three we anchored in a very fafe
cove on the north-weft fide of the bay, and unmoored
in eleven fathom water. In pafling the point of the
bay, we obferved an armed centinel on duty, who was
twice relieved J and now four canoes came off, for pur-
pofe, as "we imagined, of reconnoitring; for none of
the Indliins would venture on board, except an old
man who feemed of elevated rank. His , countrymen
expoftulated with him, laid hold of him, and took
great pains to prevent his coming aboard, but they
could not divert him from his purpofe. We received
him with the utmoft civility. Tupia and the old man
joined nofes, according to the cuftom of the country,
and having received feveral prefcnts, he retired to his
aflfociates, who beean to dance and lausjh. Whether
their exprefTions of joy were tokens of enmity or
friend/liip we could not determine. Capt. Cook and
other gentlemen went on iliore, where they met with a
fine flream of excellent water.

On the 16th, three canoes came off with a numbqr
of Indians, ^Aho brought feveral of their women with
them, which circumftancc was thought to be a favour- 1
able prefage of their peaceable difpofitionj but they
foon convinced us of our miftake, by attempting to
flop our long boat; upon which Capt. Cook had re-
courfe to the old expedient of ilring fhot over their I
heads, which intimidated them for the prefent : they

fooa

Round the W

O R L D.

g almofl:

1 cable's
he boats
ery fafe
nmoored
It of the
who wa5
, for pur-

none of
It an old
untrymen
and took

but they

2 received
.e old man
> country,
red to his

Whether

|enm\ty or

Cook and

Let with a

a number
|omen with
a favour-
but they
[empting to
lok had re-
over their
kent: they
fooii

foon gave frefll proofs of their treacherous defigns,
for one of them fnatchcd at fome paper from our mar-
ket- man, and miffing it, put himfclf in a threatening
attitude; whereupon forae fliot was fired, which
wounded him in the knee -^ but Tupia ftill continu-
ed converfmg with his companions, making enqui-
ries concerning their traditions refpcfting the antiqui-
ties of their country-^ He alfo afked them if they had
ever feen a (hip fo large as the Endeavour? they re-
plied they had not, nor never heard that fuch a veffel
had been on their coaft.

The women wKo accompany the men In their canoes,
wore a head-drcfs, it was compofed of black feathers,
tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly
increafcd the height* The Captain, Mr. Banks, and
the Doftor viiited a cove about a mile from the fliip.
There was a family of Indians who were greatly a-
larmed at the approach of thefe gentlemen, all runninrj
away except one; but upon Tupia's converfmg with
him, the other's returned* They found by the provi-
iions of this family, that they were cannibals, here be-
ing feveral human l3ones that had been lately drelTed
and picked, and it appeared a Ihort time before, fix of
their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had
killed four and eaten them, and that the other two were
drowned in endeavouring to make their efcape.

On the 29th we were viHtcd by Topoa, in company
[with other Indians, who behaved very civilly. During
Ithe time the bark was preparing for feaj Mr. Banks and
|Dr. Solandcr often went on fliore. Capt. Cook alfa
sade feveral obfervations on the coaft to the north-
reft, and perceived many iflands, forming bays, in
rhich there appeared good anchorage for fliipping.
leturning to the ftiip he met with many of the natives,
>f whpm he piirchafed a fmall quantity of fifh.

J- Oa

I' Pi

Captain Cook's pirst Vovag;

On the 30th fome of our people, who were fent out
early in the morning to gather celery, met with about
twenty Indians, among whom were five or fix women,
whofe hufbands had lately been made captives. They
fot down upon the ground together, and cut many
parts of their bodies in a moft fhocking manner, with
fhells, in teftimony of their exceflive grief. But what
mad« the horrid fpe(5lacle more terrible, was, that the
male Indians wh<T were with them, paid not the leaft
attention to it, but with the greateft nnconcern imagi-
nable, employed themfelves in repairing their huts.
This day the carpenter having prepared two polls,
they were fet up as memorials, being infcribed with
the date of the year, the month, and the fhip's name.
Capt. Cook then gave fomething to every one prefent,
after which, he honoured this inlet with Queen Char-
lotte's Sound. Afier taking leave of the natures, Topoa
attended us in his canoe to the fhip, and returned
home after dinner.

On the 310:, having taken in our wood and water,
we difpatched one party to make brooms, and^another
to catch fifli. Towards the clofe of the evening we
had a ftrong gale trom the north weft, with fuch hea-
vy (houers, that our fweet little warblers on Ihore be-
gan to fufpend their wild notes^ with which till now,
they had conftantly ferenaded us during the night,
affording us a pleafure not to be expreffed.

On the ift of February the gale increafed to a ftorm,

with heavy gufts from the main land, which obliged 119

to let go anothef anchor. Towards night they became

more moderate, but the rain poured down with impe-

tuofity, that the brooks at our watering place over- 1

flowed its banksr and carried away to ouriofs tenf

calks full of water.

- - ■■' Oiil

H UN D THE World.

with
what
It the
jleaft
mftgi-
huts.
pofts,
i with
name,
itefent,
Char-
Topoa
jturnad

water,
another
[ling we
ich hea-
\ore be-
{\\\ now,
night,

Qn the 5th we got under fail, but tHfe wind foon
falling, we came again to anchor a little above Motu-
&ra. This day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went
again on Ihore in fearch of natural curiofmes, and by-
accident met with a very amiable Indian family, among
whom was a widow, ^md a^ pretty youth about ten
years of age. The woman mourned for her hulhand
according to the cuftom of the country, with tears of
blood. The mother and fon were fitting upon mats,
the reft of the family of botlj fexes, about fevcnteen
in number, fat round them. This family feemed the
moft intelligent of any Indians we had hitherto con-
verfed with, which made us regret our late acquaint-
ance with them; for had we fallen into. their company
before, we fhould probably have gained more informa-
tion from them in one day, than we had been able to
acquire during our whole ftay upon the coaft.

Monday the 6th, the Endeavour failed out of the
bay, which from the favage cuftom of eating human
flefh, we called Cannibal Bay. We bent our courfe to
an opening in the caftj and when in the mouth of the
ftreight were becalmed in latitude 410 fouth, and 184
deg. 45 min. weft longitude. The land about this
found, which we faw at the diftance of 20 leauges,
confifts entirely of high hills and deep valleys, well
ftqred with excellent timber fit for all purpofes. The
number of inhabitants are about 400. They arc poor
and their canoes without ornaments. On our arrival
they were much pleafed with our paper; but when
they knew it would be fpoiled by the wet, they would
not have it.

On the 17 th we weighed anchor, and a frefh breeze
with a tide of ebb hurried us through the ftreight
with great fwiftnefs. In pafling it, we think it fafeft
{0 keep to the north-eaft fhore, for on this fide we

faw

Captain Cook's first Voyage

faw nothing to fear. In the afternoon, tVir^e canoes
came off, having feveral Indians on board. Thefe
made a good appearance, and their was no diiricuhy
in perfuading them to come on board, when a mutual
exchange or prefents took place. One old man was
tataowcd in a remarkable manner, he had Ukcwife a
red ftreak acrofs his nofe ; and his head and beard
were very white. His garment was made of flax.
Teeth and green ftones decorated his ears, and was
concluded from his deportment, that he was a perfon
of ^iftinguilhcd rank, and thefe people withdrev^
highly fatisiie4 with the prefents that they had re^
c^vc4»

On the 9th we dlfcovered an ifland called Eahieno-r
mauwee. About lixty Indians in double canoes came
within i ilone'g throw of the fhip on the 14th. As
they furveycd her with furprize, 7 upla endeavoured to
perfuade them to come nearer, but this they could not
be prevailed on to do. On this account the ifland was

denominated the illand of ^^ooker's-on.

On the 4th of March, feveral whales and feals were
feen ; and pn the 9th we faw a ledge of rocks, and
jbon after another ledge at three leagues diftance from
the fhore, which we paffed in the night to the north-
ward, ajid at dayrbreak obfcrved the others under our
bows, *vhich was a fortunate efcape j and in confide-
ration of their having been fo nearly caught among
ihcfe, they were denominated the Traps.

On the 16th we paffed a point which confided of
high red cliffs, and received the name of Cafcade Point
pn account of feveral fmall flreams which fell down
it. In the morning of the i8ih, the valleys were ob-
fcrved covered with fnow, as well as the mountains,
Yvbicli icemcd to h4ve iallcn tht night before, when

Round the "World.

85'

moes
:hefe
cuUy
uiual
was
vife a
beard
[ flax,
d was
perfon
tidrevf

IV-

ihieno-r
s came
Lb. As
lUted to
>uld not
and was

als were

•its, and

ice from

le north-

jder our

confide-

t among

fitted of
de Point
11 down
were ob-
untains,
le, when

we had rain at fea. Thus we pafTed the whole rorth-
weft coaft of Tovy Poenamoo, which had nothing
wortliy our obfervaiion but of naked and barren rocks
covered with fnow, fome of which we conjeftured
might have remained there linee the creation. From
this uncomfortable country we determined to depart,
having failed round the whole pountry by the 27th of
this rponth And it v/as now refolved by a council
of war to (leer for the coaft of New Holland, in the
couife of their return by |;he way of the Eaft Indies.

On the 31ft we took our departure from an eafterh
point of land, to which wc gave the name of Cape
Farewel, calling the Bay out of which we failed, Ad-
miralty Bay. Wc called a bay between the ifland and
Cape Fare w el. Blind Bay, which was fuppofed to have
been the fame' that was called Murderer's Bay; by Taf-
man, the firft difcoverer of New Zealand, but tho* he
named it Staten Ifland, thinking to take pofleJlion ofc"
it, yet, being attacked by the Indians, he never went
on fliore to effed his purpofe. This coafl:, now more
accurately exaniined, is difcovered to confift of two
ij(|anc|s,

They are fuuated between the 34th and 35th deg,
[of fouth latitude, and between 181 deg. and 194 deg. ,
I weft longitude. The northern illand is called Eahieno^
Imauwee, and the fouthern is named Tovy Poenamo(V
Iby the natives. The former, tho* mountainous ia
Ifume places, is ftored with wood, and in every valley
jthere is a rivultt. The foil in thofe valleys is hght,
Ibut fertile and well adapted for the plentiful produc-
[lions of all the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe.

Tovy Poenamoo is barren and mountainous, and ap-
peared to be alr:iorc defutute of inhabitants.

' ' Iti

Captain Cook's first Voyage

In New Zealand is only one fhrub or tree, which pro-
duces fruit, which is a kind of berry almofl taftelefs ;
but they hav^ a plant which anfwers all the ufes of
hemp and flaic. This plant is found both in high and
low grounds, in dry mould and deep bogS; but as it
grows largeft in the letter, that fccms to be its proper
loil. ^

The natives are as large as the largeft Europeans,
Their complexion is brown, but little more fo than
that of a Spaniard. The women poflfefs not that deli-
cacy, which diftinguilhes the European ladies; but
their voice diftinguilhes them from the men.

The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modeft and
referved in their behaviour and converfation as the po-
liteft nations of Europe^ The women, indeed, were
not deud to the foftell impreffions ; but their mode of
confent was in their idea as harmlefs as the confcnt to
marriage with us, and equally binding to the ftipulated
time. If any of tjie Engliih addrelled one of their
women, he was informed, that the confent of her friends
muft be obtained, which ufually followed oa his making
a prefent. This done he was obliged to treat his tem-
porary wife as delicately as wc do in England.

A gentleman who failed in the Endeavour, having
addrdied a family of rank, received an anfwer, of|
which the following is an exaft tranllation. " Any of,
thcfe young ladies will think themfelves honoured by|
your addrelTes, but yoii mult lirft make me a prcfenr,
and you mull then come and lleep with us on fliore, fori
day-light muft by no means be a witnefs of \yha't pairts|
between you."

Xlieir drcfs is form»:d of the leaves of the flag fplit
i^itp flips, which are interwoven and made into a kind

oil

Round the World.

having
nfwer, ofj

Any of
oured by I
a prcfent,!
fl\ore, for
lat paffcsl

; flag (M
to a kind]
oi

of matting, the ends, which are feven or eight inches
in length, hanging out on the upper fide. One piece
of this matting being tied over the ilioulders, reaches
to the knees : the other piece being wrapped round
the waift falls almoft to the ground. Thefe two pieces
are failendd to a firing, which by means of a bodkin
of bone is pafTed through, and tacks them together.
The men wear the lower garment only at particular
times.

The ears of both fexes are bored, and the holes
ftretched fo as to admit a man's finger. The ornaments
of their ears arc feathers, cloth, bones, and fometimes
bits of wood : a great many of them made ufe of the
nails which were given them by the Englifh, for this
purpofe, and the women fometimes adorned their
ears with white down of the albetrofs, which they
fpread before and behind the whole in a large bunch.
They likcwife hung to their ears by firings, chiffels,
bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of
their deceafcd friends. The arms and ancles of the
women are adorned with fhells and bones, or any thing
elfe through which they can pafs a firing. We faw
one man who had the griftle of his nofe perforated^
and a feather pafTed through it, projefting over each
cheek.

Thefe people fliew lefs ingenuity in the flrufture of
their houfes, than hi any thing elfe belonging to them ;
they are 16 to 24 feet long, 10 or 12 wide, and "6 or 8
ill height. The frame is of flight flicks of wood, and
the walls and roof are of dry grafs pretty firmly com-
pii^led. The door is only high enough to admit a per-
fon crawling on hands and knees. There is a fquare
hole near the door, ferving both for window and
I chimney, near which is the fii*e place.

The

-i.

Ill

Captain Cook's first Voyage

The Indians ufe axes, adj^ea^ and chifTels, with the
laft they Hkewile bore holt'.s. Their chifiels are made
of jafpcr, or the bone of a nlan*s arm ; their axes and
adzes of hard black ftone* They ufe their fmall jaf.
per tools till they are blunted, and then throw them
away, having no inftxument to fliarpen them with.

Their tillage is excellent, owing to the neccility they
are under of cultivating or running the rifque of (larv-
ing. At Tegadoo their crops were jufl put into th(^
ground, and the furface of the field was as fmooth as
a garden, the rootc were ranged in regular lines, and
to every root there remained a hillock. A long nar-
row flake, fliarpened to an edge at bottom, with a
piece fixed acrols a little above it, for the convenience
of driving it into the ground with the foot, fupplies
both tlie place of plough and fpade. The foil being
light, their work is not very laborious, and with this
inftrument alone they will turn up ground of fix or fe-
ven acres in extent.

. Their warlike Weapons are fpears, darts, battlo
axes, and the patoo-patoo. Whether they fight in
boats or on fliore the battle is hand to hand, fo thiit
they muft make bloody work of it. They trull chiefly
in the patoo-patoo, which is failened to their wrifts,
by means of a ftrong llrap, that it may not be wrcfted
out of their hands. They have a kind of a ftaflf of
diftinftion, which is carried by the principal warriors.
It is formed of a whale's rib, quite white, and adorned
wnh carving, feathers, and the hair of dogs.

As to the religion of thefe people, they acknowledge
one Supreme Being, and feveral fubordinate deities.
Their mode of worftiip we could not learn, nor was
a^y place proper for that purpofe feen. There was
Jiidt'ed a imall fquarc area, encompaifed with Aones,
'**. ia

i^-

.■ <

•v-i--*

ftoUND THE WoRLlJ.

in tile middle of which hung a bafket of fern roots on
one of their fpades. This they faid ^as aff offering to
their gods, to obtain from them a plentiful crop of pro-
vifions. They gave the fame account of the origin of
the world, and the produftiori bf mankind, as our
friends in Otaheitc. Tupia^ however, feemed to have
much more deep and extenfive knowledge of thefe fub-
jefts than any of the people of this ifland, and when he
fometimes delivered a long difcourfe, he was fure of a
numerous audience^- who heard with remarkable reve-
rence and attention*

With regard to tlie manner of difpodng of their
dead, we could form no certain opinion^ The fouthern
diftrift faid, they difpofed of their dead by throwing
them into the fea# We faw, however, not the leaft fign
of any grave or monument j but the body of many a-
mong the living, bore the marks of wounds, in token
of grief for the lofs of their friends and relations.

Before we clofe tlie accourit of New Zealand, we
beg leave to obferve, that hitherto our navigation has
been very unfavourable to the fuppofition of a South-
ern Continent. The navigators -ho have fupported
the pofitions upon which this is founded, are Tafman«
Juan, Fernandes, Hermitej CJuiros, and Rogewin ; but
the track of the Endeavour has totally fubverted all
their theoretical arguments. Upon a view of the
chart it will appear, that a large fpace extends quite
to the tropics, which has not been explored by us nor
any other navigators; yet we believe there is no cape
of any Southern Continent, and no Southern Conti-
nent to the northward of 40 deg. fouth. Of what may-
lie farther to the fouthward of 40 deg. we can give no
opinion : yet are far from difcouraging any future at-
tempts after new difcoverics : for a voyage like this

M mzf

•4f

Caftain Cook's first Voyage

may be of public utility. Should no continent be
found, new illands within the tropics may be difco-
vcred. Tupia in a rough chart of his own drawing
laid down no lefs thj^n fevcnty-fourj and he gave us
an account of aboye one hundred and thirty, which
no European vcffel has ever yet yifitcd.

CHAP.

viir.

Paffage from New Zealand to Botany Bay, in New
Holland — Various incidents related — A defcription
of the country and its inhabitants — Sails from Bota-

- ny Bay* to Trinity Bay — ^Her dangerous fituation in
her paffage from Trinity Bay to Endeavour River.

ON the 31ft of March, 1-770, we failed from Cape
Farewell, having fine weather and a fair wind.
This capje lies in lat. 40 deg. 35 min. S. and in 1 86 deg.
W. long. We fleered wcfl with a frefli gale till the
and of April, when by obfervation we found our lati-
tude to be 40 deg. and our long., from Cape Farewell,
2 deg. 3 1 min. W. On the 1 7th we had frcfli gales
with fqualls and dark weather in the morning ; and in
the afternoon a hard gale and a great fea, which o-
bliged us to run under our fore-f^il and mizen alt
night.

On the 1 8th in the morning, we were vifited by a
pint«id9 bird, aniDf^Uible fign that lacid was near, which

\vc

Round the World,

9t.

wc difcdvered at fix o'clock in the morning of the 1 9th,
four or five leagues diftant. To the fouthermoll point
in fight, wc gave the name of Point Hiciis. On the
following day wc had a diftant view of the country,
which was in general covered with wood, and inter-
fperfed with feveral fmall lawns. It appeared to be
inhabited, as fmoke was feen in fevcral places. On
the 2 2d we were fo near the flaore, as to fee feveral of
the inhabitants on the coaft, who were of a dark com-
plexion, if not perfeft negroes. The trees on this
ifland were both tall and large, but we faw no place fit
to give flielter, even for a bo;iit..

On the 27th we faw feveral of the inhabitants walk-
ing along the fhore, four of them carrying a canoe on
their ftioulders, but as they did not attempt to come off
to the (hip, the captain took Meflrs. Banks and Solander,
and Tupia in the y^wl, to that pai«t of the fliore where
they faw the natives, near which four canoes lay clofe
in land. The Indians fat on the rocks till the yawl was
a quarter of a mile from the fliore, and then they ran
away into the woods. The lurf beating violently on
the beach, prevented the boat from landing ; the gen-
tlemen were therefore obliged to make what obferva-
tions they could at a diflancc. They faw a great num-.
ber of cabbage trees on ftiore.

At five in the evening they returned to the fliip, and:
a light breeze fpringing up, we failed to the northward
where ^ye difcovered feveral people on fliore, who, on
our approach, retired to an eminence, foon after
1 which two canoes arrived on the fliore, and four men,
who came in them, joined the others,' liie pinnace-
having been fent a-head to found, arrived near the
fpot where the Indians had ftationed themfclvcs, on-
Iwhich one of them hid himfe'f .unong the rocks, near
[the landing place, and the otiiers retreated farther up^

the-

IMAGE EVALUATION
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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WR)'< MAIN STRKT

WiBSTtlt "J Y. M58ft

(716) t72-4^(»>

Captain Cook's first Vovaoe

the hill. The pinnacp keeping- along ftiore, the Indi-
ans walked near in a line with her ; they were armed
with long pikes, and, by various figns and words, in-
vited the boat's crew to land. The fliip having come
to an anchor, we obferved a few huts, in which were
forac of the natives. We anchored oppofite a village
of about eight houfes, and obferved an old woman and
three children come out of a wood j they were met
by three fmaller ones, all of whom, as well as the wor
pxan^ were quite uaked.

Haying formed a defign of landing, we manned the
boats, and took Tupia with us, but had no fooner
<:ome near the iHorc, than two men advanced, as if to
difputeour fetting foot on land. They wercLcach of
them armed with different kinds of weapons. They
called out aloud, warra warra wai! the meaning of it
Tupia did not underftand. The captain ^hrew them
beads, nails, and other trifles, which they took up, and
feemed pleafed with. He then made fignals that he
wanted water, and ufed every poffible means tq con-
vince them that no injury was intended. They made
figns to the boat's crew to land, on which we put the
boat in, but had no fooner done fo, than the two In-
dians came again p oppofe us. A mulquct was fired
between them, on the report of which, one of thero
dropped a bundle of lances, which he immediately
fnatched up again in great hafte. One of them threw
a ftone at the boat, on which the captain ordered a
mufquet loaded with fmall (hot to be fired, which
w6unding the eldeft of them iii the legs, he retired i
haftily to one of the huts that flood at fomc little dif-
;ance..

The people in the boats now landed, imagining that
the wound which this man had received, would put
jin end to the coiiteft. In this, however, we wercf

miflaken,

Round t li e W o r l d.

^liftaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of
fliield, with tWq holes in it to fee through. They now ''
advanced with great intrepidity, and both difcharged
their lances, but did not wound any of us. Another
mufquet was fired at them, on which they threw anor
jcher lance, and then took to their heels.

We now went up to the hutg, in one of which wc
found the children, who had fecreted themfelves be-
lli ad fome bark. We looked at them, but left them
jjvithput its being know-'u wc had feen them, and hav-
ing thrown feveral pieces of cloth, ribbands, beads,
and other things into the hut, we took feveral of their
lances, and then reimbarked in the boat^

' We now failed tq the north point of the bay, and
found plenty of freih water. Qn taking a view of the
hut where wc had feen the children, we had the mor^
tification to find that every Indian had fled, and that
they had left all their prcfents behind them. The cap-
tain now went in the pinnace to infpeft the bay, and
faw feveral of the natives, who all fled iis he approach-
ed them. Some of the men having been fcnt to get
wood and water, they no fooner went on board to din-
ner, than the natives came down to the place, and ex-
amined the caiks with great attention, but did not ofl*er
to reinove them, \Vhcn the people were on fliore in
tlie afternoon, ^bout twenty of the natives, all armed,
advanced within a trifling difl:iince of them, and then
flopped, Nvhile two of their number approached ftill
jiearer. Mr* Hicks, the commanding officer on fliore,
yrcnt towards them, with prefents in his hands, and
endeavoured, by every pofiible means, to aflure them
of his friendly intentions, but to no purpofe, for ^ley
retired before he came up to them.

pn the 30th, the iaatives came down to the huu

before

Captain Cook's first Voyage

before it was light, ..tid were repeatedly heard to
iliout very Joud, and fuon after day-break they were
feen on tiie beach, but quickly retired about a mife,
and kindled fcveral fires in the woods. This day fome
of the lhip*s crew being eqiploycd in cutting grafs at
a diftance from the main body, while the natives pur-
fued them, but ftopping within fifty or fixty yards of
them, they fliouted feveral times, and retreated to the
woods. In the evening they behaved exaftlyjn the
fame manner, when the captain followed them alone
..'and unarmed for fome thne, but they ftill retired as hO
approached.

On May the firft, the fouth point of the bay was
named Sutherland. Point, one of the feamen of the
tiame of Sutherland, having died that day, was bu-
ried on fhorej and more prefents were left in the huts,
fuch as looking-glaifcs, combs, &c. but the former
ones had iaot been taken away. Making an excur^
iion about the country, we found it agreeably varie-
gated with wood and lawn.. The country might be
cultivated without cutting down one of them. The
grafs grows in large tufts, almolt clofe to each other.
In this cxcurfion, we met with many places where the
inhabitants had flept without ihelter, and one man,
who ran away the moment he beheld us. More pre-
fents were left in their huts, and at their fleeping places,
in hopes of producing a friendly intercourfe. We faw
the dung of an animal which feeds on gra^, and traced
the foot-fteps of another, which had claws like a dog,
and was about the fize of a wolf: alfo the track of a^
fmall auinial, whofe foot was like that of a pole.

The woods abound with a vaft variety of beautiful
birds, among which were cockatoos, and parroquets,
which flew in large flocks. The fecond lieutenant, Mr.
Gore, having been with a boat in order to drudge for

oyfters.

Round tHE World,

95^

oyfters, faw forne Indians^ wlio made iigns for him
to come on fliore, which he declined : having finiflied
his bufinefs he fent the boat away, and went by land
with a midftiipman, to join the party that was getting
water. In their way they met with more than 20 of
the natives who followed them fo clofe as to come
within a few yards of them j Mr. Gore flopped and
faced them, on which the Indians flopped alfo, and
when he proceeded again, they followed him ; but
they did not attack him tho' they had each man a
lane c. The Indians coming in fight of the water cafks,
ftood at the diflance of a quarter of a mile, while
Mr. Gore and his companions reached their fhip^
mates^ in fafety. Three of the waterers now advanced
towards the Indians, but obferving they did not retire,
they very imprudently turned about; and retreated
haftily : this apparent fign of cowardice infpired the
favages, who discharged four of their lances at the
fugitives, which flying beyond them, they efcaped un-
hurt. At this inflant the Captain came up with MefT.
Banks and Solander, and Tupia advancing, made
figns of friendfhip ; but the natives would not flay
their coming up to them*

On the following day they went again on (hore,
I where many plants were coUefted by Dr. Solander, and
Mr. Banks. They faw feveral parties of the Indians,
who all ran away on their approach. Tupia having
learnt to flioot, frequently flayed aloneto fhoot parrots,
and the Indians conflantly fled away from him with as^
much precipitation as from the Englifh. On xh6^df,
fourteen or fifteen Indians, in the fame number of ca-
noes, were engaged in flriking fifh withiti H^' a mile
|of the watering-place. ' ^^

The Captain landing on ihore, found feveral of the
ians walking about, who immediately retreated to

their

-■f

W-i

96 Captain Cook's Ft RSt VoYAce

their canoes and rowed off. They went up the coun-
try, where they found the foil to be a black mould,
which appeared to be calculated for the production of
any kind of grain. They faw fortie of the fined mea-
dows that were ever beheld, and met with a few rocky
places, the ftone of which is fandy, and feem'ed to be
admirably adapted for building. In the woods they
found a tree bearing cherries, if Ihape and colour may
intitle them to that name, the juice of which was a-
greeably tart. They now returned to their boat, and
feeing a fire at a diftance, rowed towards it; but the
Indians fled at their coming near them.

On the 6tli of May, we failed from Botany Bay,
and at noon were off a harbour, which was called
Port Jackfon, and in the evening near a bay, to which
we gave the name of Broken Bay. The next day at
noon,, the northermoft land in fight, projefting fo as to
juftify the calling it Cape Three Points. On the 9th we
paffed a rocky point, which was named Point Stephens,
Next day faw fmoke in feveriil places on fliore, and in
the evening difcovered three remarkable high hills,
which the captain named the Three* Brothers. They
lie in lat. 31 deg. 40 min. and may be feen 14 leagues
from the Inore.

. On the 15th in the morning, by the affiftantfe of our
piaffes, we difcerned about a fcore of Indians, each
loaded with a bundle, which we imagined to be palm
leaves for covering their houfes. We traced them for
more than an hour, during Which time they took not
the Icaft notice of the {hip; at length they left the
beach, and were loft behind a hill, which they gained
by a gentle aicent. K). noon, in lat. 28 deg. 37 min.
30 fee. fouth, and in 206 deg. 30 min. weft longitude,
the captain difcovered a high point of land, and named
i; Cape Byron.

0;il

3*"i

A ~7

^■-i

IK >^

ts>1

i£3

' m

ir -.

Ai^Chwf of Otaheitc aoco|mpRnied-withhi5 "WifcfeLcTrefentW
PofJiis Sifters toCapt^Cookoaboai-a tlieTle solution Sloop

I' rj

f <

' - i ■

• a

'.N

une

iund

nooi

liiy i

were

preft

tops

Watc

fcmbi

and b

i'wimn

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:•■* -

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4*1. ■

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Mt'aXf, *

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.-.,u„

gia/Tes,
bay, i]
coverei
none o
within
Capt. C
"H^m o
fo frefli
di/lancc
We Jan
into a J
true ma
it does
which ^

On tj
[the day[
I ing imml
I Cape C^
I Dumber i
[which
jiathom
MI raum
Numl

Round the World.

On the i8th in the morning, we defcried a point fo
unequal, thiit it looked like two fmall iflands under the
liind, and was therefore called Double liland Point. At
noon, by help of glaffes, difcovef ed fome fands, which
liiy m patches of feveral acres* We obferved they
were movable, and that they had Hot been long in their
prefent fituation j for we faw trees half buried, and the
tops of others ftill green. At this time two beautiful^
Water-fnakes fwam by the {hip, in every refpeft re-
fcmbiing land-fnakes, except that their tails were flat
and broad, probably to ferve them inftead of fins in
Iwimming.

On the 2 2d, at fix m the morning, by help of our
glaffes, when a-breaft of the fouth-point of a large
bay, in which the captain intended to anchor, we dif-
covered, that the land Was covered with palm-nut trees, •
none of which we had fecn fnice we quitted the iflanda
within the tropic. On the 23d, early in the morning,
Capr. Cook attended by feveral gentlemen, and Tupia,
went on fhore to examine the country. The wind blew
fo frelh, and we found it (o cold, that being at fome' .
diftancefrom the fhore, we took with us our cloaks.
We landed a little within the point of a bay, which led
into a large lagoon, by the fides of which grows the
true mangrove, fuch as is found in the Weft-Indies, as
it does alfo on fome bogs, and fwamps of falt-water
which we difcovcred.

On the 24th, We made fail out of tbe bay, ana on
the day folio wiiig were a-breaft of a pomt, whichbe-
I ing immediately under the tropic, tbe captajpt ^amed
Cape Capricorn, on the wcft-fide we faw ali|^p^zing
number of large birds, refcmbling the pelicifl "
which were near five feet high. We ancho^^
fathom water, having the main land and barren
lall rofund us.

Numb. 5.- N

■4 1

Captain Cook's first Voyage

On the apth wc ftood between the range qf aimed
barren iflands and the main land, which appeared
movintainous. We had here very (hallow water, and
anchored in fixteen fjet, which was not nK)re than the
(hip drew. Mr. Banks tried to fi(h from the cabin
windows, but the water was too (hallow. The ground
indeed was covered with crabs, which greedily feized
the bait, and held it till they were above water. Thefe
crabs were of. two kinds, one of a very fine blue, with
a white belly, and the other marktd with blue on the
joints, and three brown fpots on the back.

On June the ift we got under fail, and our lat. by
obferyation was 21 deg. 29 min. fouth. We had quite
open the Weftern inlet, which we have diftinguifhed
by the name of Bread Sound. At eight in the evening
we anchored in eleven fathom, with a fandy bottom,
about two leagues from the main land.

On the ad we got under fail, and difcovered a point
of land, which we called Cape Conway. The land a-
bout Cape Conway forms a moft beautiful landfcape,
being diverfificd with hills and dales. By the help "^f
our glaflies we difcovered two men and a woman en the
ifland, and a canoe, with an outrigger like thofe of
ptaheite.

On the 8^th we flood away for the no'rthermoft point
m fight, to .which we gave the name of Point Hillock.
At iix iw the evening we were a-breaft of a point of
land, which we named Cape Sandwich. We now
ranged northward along the (bore, towards a clufter of
iflands, on one of which was 40 or 50 men, women,
and children were (landing together, all ftark naked,
and looking at the (hip with a curiofity never obferved
among thefe people before. At noon our lat^by ob-
ijCervation, was 17 deg. 59 min. ind we were a-breaft of

th«

Round the World.

tix North Point of Rockingham Bay. This houndary
of the bay is formed by an ifland of confiderable
height, which we diftinguiflied by the name of Dunk
Ide. ~

Sunday the loth, was remarkable for the dangerous
fituation of the Endeavour. As no accident remarkably
unfortunate had befallen «s, during a navigation of
more than 1,300 miles, upoi^ a coaft every where a-
bounding with the moft dangerous rocks and Ihoals,
no name of diftrefs had hitherto been given to any
cape or point of land which we had, feen. But vve
now gave the name of Cape Tribulatioi, to a point
we had juft feen fartheft to the northward, becaufe
here we became acquainted with misfortune. The
cape Hes in latitude 16 deg. 6 tnin. S. and 214 deg. 31
piin. W. longitude^ " ^. - ' ^

At fix in the cvcnrng we fhortened fail, and hauled
off clofe upon a wind, to avoid the danger of feme
rocks, which were feen a-head, and to oblerve wher
thcr any iflands in the offing, as we were near the lat.
of thofe iflands, faid to have been difcovered by Qui-
ros. We had got into 21 fathom water, when fud-
denly we fell 'nto 12, 10, and 8 fathom, in a few mi-,
nutes. Every man was inftantly ordered to his ftation,
and were upon the point of anchoring, when on a fud-
den, we had again deep water, fo that we thought all
danger at an end, concluding that we had failed over
the tail of fome Ihoals. W^ had 2i fathoms and up-,
wards before ten o'clock, and this depth continuing
foiuttime, the gentlemen, who had hitherto been upon
duty, retired to reft j but in lefs than an hour the
water (hallowed at once from 20 to 17 fathoms, and.
before foundings could be taken, the (hip ftruck upon
a rock, and remained immoveable. Every one was,
inftantly on deck, with countenances fully expreffive

lOO

Captain Cook's first Voyage

of the horrors of our fituation. Knowing wc were
not near the Ihore, conchided that we were upon a rock
of coral, the points of which are (harp, and the fur-
face fo rough, as to grind away whatever it rubbed a-
gainft, even with the gentled motion. All the fails
being immediately taken in, and our boats hoifted opt,
"We lound, that the fhip had been lifted over the ledge
of a rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding the
water was deepcft a-ftern, mc parried out the .anchor
from the (larboard quarter, and applied our whole
force to the capftan, Jn hopes to get the vtffel off, but
in vain. She beat fo violently againft the rock, that
the crew could fcarcely (land on ilieir legs. Our bed
chance of efcaping feemed now to be by lightening
her i but having druck at high water, we fhould have
been in our prefent (ituatipn after the veflel (hould
draw as much lefs water as the water had funk ; our
anxiety abated a little, on finding that the fhip fettled
on the rocks as the tide ebbed, and we flattered our-
felves, that if the fhip (hould keep together till the
next tide, we mii^ht have fome chance of floating her.
We therefore Indantly darted the "water in the hold,
and pumped it up. The decayed dores, oil-jars,
calks,, ballad, fix guns, and other things, were thrown
overboard, in order to get at the heavier articles; and
in this bulinefs we were employed till day-bfcakj dur-
ing which time not an oath was fworn, fo much were
the minds of the failors imprefTed with .a fenfe of"their
danger.

On the nth at day-light, we faw land at eight
teagues didance, but not a Tingle ifland between us and
the main, on which part of the crew might have been
landed, while the J)oat went on (bore with the red :
fo that the dedruftion of the greater part of us would
tiave beep inevitable had the (hip gone to pieces. As
We cxpedicd high water about eleven o'clock, every

thing

At
heaved
that Ih
before
gained
inches

Round the World.

lox

thing was prepared to make another effort to free the
fhip, but the tide fell fo much fliort of that in the
night, that flic did not float by i8 inches, though we
bad thrown oyerboard 50 tons weight : we therefore
renewed our toil, and threw overboard every thing
that could poflibly ^e fpared ; fts the tide fell, the
water poured in fo rapidly, that we could fcarcc keep
Iier fiec by the conftant working of two pumps. Our
only hope depended on the mid-might tide, and pre- -
parations were accordingly made for another effort to
get the (hip olf. The tide began to rife at five o'clock
when the leak likewifeincreafed to fuch a degree, that
two pumps more were manned, but only one of thc.n
would work i three, therefore, kepc going till nine
clock, at which time the fliip righted ; but fo much
water had been admitted by the leak, that we expedl-
ed flie would fink as. foon as the water fliould bear her
off the rock. Our fituaiion was deplorable, beyond
defcription, almoft ail hope being at an end. We
knew that when the fatal moment Ihould arrive, all au-
thority would be at an end. The boats were incapble
of conveying all on fhore, and dreaded a conteft for
the preference, as more fhocking than the (hip wreck
iifelf : yet it was con(idered, that thofe who might be
left on bodrd, would eventually meet with a wilder
fate than thofe who, by gaining the (hore, would have
no chance but to linger out the remains of life among
the rudell favages in the univerfc, and in a country
where fire-arms would barely enable them to fupporc

ihemfelves in a moft wretched fituation.

I, . . ■ • ■ ■ • • • ■ ■

At ten minutes after ten the (hip floated, and was
heaved into deep water, when we were happy to find,
that (he did not admit more water than (he had done
before : yet, as the leak had for a confiderable time
gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine
inches water in the hold. By this time the men were

:'"■'■/ io

fP2 Captain Copic's first Voyage

fo worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of
them could pump above five or fix minutes at a
time, and tiien threw themfelves, quite fpent, on the
deck, amidfl: a ftream of water which came from the
pumps. Between the infide lining of the fl^ip's bot-
tom, and the outfide planking, there is a fpaee of a-
bout 17 inches. The man xvho had hitherto taken the
depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther
than the cieling, but being now relieved by another
perfon, who took the depth of the owtfide plank, it
appeared by this miflake, that the leak had fudde^ly
gained upon the pumps, the whole difference between
the two planks. This circumftance deprived us of all
hopes, and fcarce any one thought it worth while to
labour : but the miftake was loon difcovered ; and the
joy arifmg from fuch unexpefted good news, infpired
the men with fo much vigour, that before eight in the
morning, they had pumped out confiderably more wa-
ter than they had fliipped, We now talked of nothing
but getting the Ihip into fome harbour, and fet hearti-
ly to work to get in the anchors; one of which, and
the cable of another we loft; but thefe were now con-
fidcred as trifles. Having a good breeze from fea, we
got under fail at eleven o*clock, and fteered for land.
As we could not difcover the exaft fituation of the leak,
we had ho profpeft of flopping it within fide of the vef-
fel, but on the 1 2th, the following expedient, which
one of the midfliipmen had formerly feen tried with
fuccefs, was adopted. We took an old ftudding fail,
and h'^ving mixed a larg« quantity of oakham and wool,
chopped fmall, it was Ititched down in handfuls on the
fail, as lightly as poffible, the dung of (lieep and other
filth being fpread over it. Thus prepared, the fciil
was hauled under the Ihip, by ropes, which kept it
extended till it came under the leak, when the fuftion
carried in the oakham and wool from the furface of the
fail. This experiment fuccecded fo well, tlmt inftead

•;••

Round the World.

103

, at a

on the

)m the

s bot-

: of a-

:en the

farther

inother

ank, it

iddeijly

tetwecn

; of all

hile to

and the

infpired

X in the

Lore \va-

nothing

t hearti-

ich, and

ow con-
fea, we

'or land.

:he leak,
the vef-
, which
ied with
ing fail,
id wool,
,s on the
lid other
the iiiil
kept it
fuftioa
;e of the
inftead

of three pumps, the water was eafily kept under with

one.

We had hitherto no farther view than to run the
fliip into fome harbour, and build a veffel from her
materials, in which we might reach the Eall-Indies ;
but we now began to think of finding a proper place
to repair her damage, and then purfued her voyage
on its original plan. At fix in the evening we anchored .
feven leagues from thefhore; and found that the ftiip
made 15 inches water an hour during the night ; but
as the pumps could clear this quantity, we were not
imeafy. In the morning we palTed two illands, and
called them Hope Iflands, becaufc the reaching of
them had been the objeft of our wifhes. In the after-
noon, the mafter was fent out in a boat, to found and
fearch for a harbour where the fliip might be repaired,
and we anchored at fun-fet,. in four fathoms water,
three miles from the fhore. One of the mates being
fent out in the pinnace, returned at nine o'clock, re-
porting, that he had found fuch a harbour as .was
wanted, at the diflance of 2 leagues.

On the 13th, at fix o'clock we failed, having pre-
viouily fent the boat a-hcad to point out the fhoals
I that we faw in our way. We foon anchored about a
mile from the fliore, when the captain went out, and
found the channel very narrow, but the harbour better
adapted to our prefent purpofe, that any place we had
feen in the courfe of the. voyage. As it blew very
frelh this day, we could not venture to run into the
harbour, but remained at anchor the two fucceeding
days, in the courfe of which we obferved four Indians
[on the hills, who flopped and made three fires.

Our men by this time, began to be afl3iifted with
thefcurvy^ and cur Indian friend Tupia \ra$ fo ill with

it.

_-a<

I<34 Captain Cook's FIRST VoYACfc

it, that he had livid fpots On both legs. The <vind
continued frefli till the i7tli, and then we refolved to
puih in for the harbour, and twice ran the lliip aground ;
die fecond time fhe ftuck faft, on which we took down
the booms, fore-yard, and fore-top mails, and made a
raft on the fide of the fhipj and as the tide happened
to be rifmg, flie floated at one o'clock. We foon got
her into the harbour, where (he was moored along the
fide of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immedi-
atcly taken out of her.

CHAP.

IX.

The fibip refitted — ^Tranfaftions during that time— The
country and its inhabitants defcribed — ^The range
from Endeavour River to the extremity of the
country — ^The Endeavour departs from South Wales
—That country and people defcribed.

ON the i8th in the morning, we erected a tent for
the fick, who were brought on ihorc as foon as
it was ready for their reception. We likewife built
a ftage from the fliip to the lliore, and fet up a tent to
hold the provifions and (lores, that were landed the
fame day. The boat was now difpatched in fearch of
fifli for the refreftiment of the fick, but (lie returned
without getting anyj but Tupia employed himfelf in
angling, and lived entirely upon what Ue caught, and
recovered his health very faft,

Round the World.

lo^

On the 19th, the fmith*s forge was Tet up, and the
armourer prepared the neceffary iron-work for the
repair of the veffel. The officers ftores, ballad, wa-
ter, &c. were likewife ordered out, in order to lighten
the fliip. On the 20th, as we were removing the coals,
the water ruihed in, near the foremiift, about three feet
from the keel ; fo that it was reiolved to clear the hold
entirely; which being done on the 2 2d, we warped the
ibip higher up the harbour, to a ftation more proper
for laying her alhore, in order to. flop the leak.

Early in the, morning, the tide having left her, we
proceeded to examine the leak, when it appeared that
the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers,
and that . three other planks were damaged. In thefe
breaches not .a fplinter was to be feen, the whole being
fmooth as if cut away by an inftrument : but it was the
will of an omnipotent being, that the veffel fliould be
preferved by a very fmgul-^r circumftance: for tho'
one of the holes was large enough to have funk her^
even with eight pumps conftantly at work, yet this in-
let to our deltruftion was partly Hopped up, by a frag-
ment of the rock being left (licking therein. We like-
wife found /orae pieces of the oakham, wood, &c.
had got between theTtimbers, and flopped thofc parts
of the leak that the (tone had left open. Exclufive ojf
the leak, great damage was done to various parts of
the (hip's bottom. While the fmiths were employed in
making nails and bolts, the carpenters began to work
on the veffel. And fome of the people were fent on
the other fide of the river to (hoot birds for the (ick.
They found a (Iream of frefh water, and feveral of the
inhabitants of the Indians.

On the 24th Mr. Gore and a party of men fent out
with him, procured a bunch or two of wild plantains,
and few u palm cabbages, for the rcfrefhmcnt of the

Q fick:

lod Captain Cook'^s first Voya^

fick: The repairs of the (hip on the ftarboard fidcnkt-
ing been finimed the preceding day, the carpenters now
began to work under her larboard bowj- and being ex-
amined abaft, it appeared flie had received very little
injury in that quarter. On the 26th the carpenter was
engaged in caulking the fliip, and the men in other ne-
ceflarybufmeis; and on the 27th, the armourer conti-
nued to work at the forge, and the carpenter on the
fliip, while captain made feveral hauls with the large
net, and caught fuch a quantity, that two pounds and
a half were diftributed to each man; and plenty of
greens had been gathered, which when boiled with
peas, made an excellenx meis.-

On the I ft of July, all the crew had permiilion to
go on ftiore, except one from each mefs. Some of our
people who went up the country, gave an account of
their having feen feveral animals, and a fire about a
mile up the river. On the 3dv the mafter, who had
been fent in the pinnace, returned, and reported, that
he had found a palTage out at fea, between Ihoals which
confifted of coral rocks, many whereof were dry at
low watex.

He found cockels fo large, that one of them was'
more than fufEcient for two men; likewife plenty of
other Ihell-fifli, of which he brought a fupply to the
ibip, in his return to which he had landed in a bay
where fome Indians were at fupper; but they inftantly
retired, leaving fome eggs by a fire for dreifmg them.
This day we made another aucinpt to float the Ihip,
and happily fucceeded-at high water ; when we found
that by the pofition flie had lain in, one of her planks
was fprung, fo that it was again neceflary to lay her
alhore. Au Alligator fwam by her feveral times at high
water* '

^ • Wcdnefday

Round the World.

107

snow
gex-
littlc
r was
er ne-
conti-"
Dn the
: large
ds and
nty of
d witli

Wednefday the 4th, was employed in trimming her
upon an even keel, warping her over, and laying her
down on a fand-bank, on the fouth fide of the river ;
and on the next fljie was again floated, and moored oiF
the beach, in order to receive the ftorcs on board.
This day, the 6th, Mr, Banks failed up the river, to
make an excuriion up the corntry, returned on the
[8th. Having followed the courfe of the river, they
found it at length contr«ifted into a narrow channel,
bounded by fteep banks, adorned with trees <rf a moft
Ibeautiful appearance, among which was tlie bark tree.
iThe land was low and covered with grafs, and fcemed
[capable of being cultivated to great perfeftion.

Going in purfuit of game, we faw four animals, two
f which were chafed by Mr. Banks's greyhound, but
hey greatly outftripped him in fpeed, by leaping over
he long thick grafs, which incoipmoded the dog in
unning. It was obfcrved of the animals that they
ounded forward on two legs, inftead of running on
rour. Having returned to the boat, they proceeded
]ip the river, till it contrafted to. a brook of frefli wa-
fer, but in which the tide rofe conliderably.^ Having
[opped to pafled the night, we faw at fome diftancc a
noke, on which three of us approached it, but the
idians wertf gone. The tide favouring us inlthe
liorning, we loft no time in getting back to the Ihip..

linftantly ■ ^^ ^ext day the fccond lieutenant came on fliorc,

_ ^u^^ dfoon after faw four Indians, in a fmall canoe. The'

laptain now ^'*«-ermined to take notice of thefe peo-

e, as the moit likely way to be noticed by them.

'lis projeft aufwere*!; two of them came within muf-

et ftiot of the vcffel) where they converfed very

d ', in return, the people on board' ihouted, ancl,

,de figng of invitation. The Indians gradually ap-.

oaiched, with their lances held up.^ not ii^ a menacing

flion to
; of our
ount of
ibout a
^ho had
:d, that
s which
dry aL

icm was'
lenty of
to the
a bay
iiuftantly
Lg them.
Ihe Ihip,
te found
|r planks
lay her
at high

tdnefday

io8

Captain Cook's FIRST Voyage

manner, but as if tlifcy mea,nt to intimate that they
were capable of defending themfelves. They came
almofl: along lide, when the captain threw them cjoth,
nails, paper, &c. which did not feem to attraft their
notice, at length one of the failors tlirew a fmall fifti,
which fo ple^fcd them, that they hinted their defigns
of bringing their companions, and immediately rowed
for ftiore. . In the interim, Tupia and foitie of the |
crew landed on the oppofi^e fliorc,

The four Indians now came quite along fide the fliipj
and having received further prefcnts, landed where
Tupia and the failors had gone. They had each two]
lances, and a Hick with which they threw them. Ad-
vancing towards the Englifti, Tupia perfuaded them tol
}ay down their ;irms, J^nd fit by him, which they rea-l
dily did. Others of the crew now going ">n iliore, thel
Indians feemcd jealous, left they Ihould get betwecnl
them and theiy arms, but care was taken to convince!
them that np f\ich thing was intended, and more triflcs[
yf^e prcfei^ted them. The crew ftaid with them till
dinner time^ and then made figns of invitation fori
them to go to the fliip and eat; but this they declinedj
«iud retired in ;heir canoe.

Thefe men were of the common ftatute, with verJ
faiall limbs : their complexipn was of a deep chocolate]
their hair black, either lank or curled, but not of tli|
woolly kind; the breafts and upper lip of one of theij
were painted witli ftreaks of white, which he ci
carbanda, and fome of their bodies painted re
Their teeth were white and even, their eyes brighJ
and their features rather pleafing ; their voices muf
^1, and they repeated feve^al EngUfii woyds m
great readihefs.

The nex; morning the ylfit of three of thefe Icdia

Oil

the c[

canoe

fign

ed, 11

The

frcwl

Round the World,

109

vas renewed, and they brought with them a fourth,
whom they called Yaparico, who appeared to be a
perfon of fome confequcnce. The bone of a bird, a-
bout fix inches long, was thrufl through his nofe.
T hefe people being all naked, the captain gave one of
them an old Ihirt, which he bound round his head like
a turban. They brought a fifli to the Ihip, which was
fuppofed to be in payment for that given them the day
before : after Haying fome time with apparent fatisfac-
tion, they fuddenly leaped into their canoe and rowed
off, from a jealoufy of fome of the gentlemen, vbo
V^ere e.^amininj| lU

On the 1 2th, three Indians vifited Tupia's tent, and
jifter remaining fome time, went for two others, whom
they introduced by name. Some fifti was offered them,
but they feeraed not much to regard it ; after eating a
little, they gave the reft to Mr. Banks*s dog. On the
j:4th, Mr. Gore fhot one of the animals above-men-
tioned. It chanced to be a young one, wcig|;iiag more
than 38 pounds, but when they are full grown, they
are as large as a flieep, The ikin of thisbcaft, which
is called Kangaroo, is covered with fliott fur, and is of
a dark moufe-colour j the head and ears are fomewhat
like thofe of a hare; this animal was dreffed for dinner,
and proved tp be fine eating. The (liip's crew fed on
turtle almoft every day, finer than thofe eaten in Eng-
land, owing to their being killed before their natural
fat vyas \vaftcd, and their juices changed,

On the 1 7th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went with
the captain into the woods, and faw four Indians in a
canoe, who went on (hore, and walked up without
fign of fear. They accepted fome beads, and depart-
ed, intimating that they did not chufe to be followed.
The natives beihg now bqcome familiar with the fliip*s
crew, one of them was deftred to throw his lance,

Wliich

Captain Cook's first Vqyagi

^t >_

which he did, with fuch dexterity and force, thattho*
it was not above four feet from the ground at the high-
eft, it penetrated deeply into a tree at the diftance of
50 yards. The natives now came on board the Ihip,
and were well pleafed with their entertainment.

On the 19th, we faW feveral of the women, who,
as well as the men, were quite naked. We were this
day vifited by ten Indians, who feemed refolved to
have one of the turtles that was on board, which they
repeatedly made figns for, and being as repeatedly re-
fufed, they expreffed the utmoft rage and rfefentment,
one of them ift particular, paying received a denial
from Mr. Banks, he ftampied and.pufhed him away in
a moft violent manner. At length they hid hands op
%wo of the turtles, and drew them to the fide of the
fliip where the canoe lay, but the failors took them
away. They made feveral fimilar attempts, but being
equally unfucccfsful, they leaped fiiddenly into, their
canoe, and rowed off. At this inftant the captain,
with Mr. Banks, and five of the feimen, went on more,
where many of the crew were -employed. One of the
Indians fnatched a fire brand from under a pitch kettle,
and running to the windward of what effefts were left'
pn fliore, fet fire to the grafs, which burned rapidly,
fcorched a pig to death, burned part of the fmith's forge
and would have deftroyed a tent of Mr. Banks's, but
fome people came from the fhip juft time enough to
get it out of the way of the flames. In the mean while
the Indians went to a place where the fifhing nets lay,
and a quantity of linen was laid out to dry, and there
again fet fire to the grafs, in fpite of all perfaafion, and
even of threats. A mufquet loaded with fmaUfliop^
was fired, and one of them being wounded, they raa
away, and this fecond fire was extinguilhed : but the
other burned far into the woods.

?h?

U
\-ii

Round thi World.

ill

The Indians ftill continued in fight, a mufquet was
fired with ball, the report only of which fent them out of
light ; but their voices being heard in the woods, the
captain with a few people went to meet them. Both
parlies flopped when in fight of each other ; at which
time an old Indian advanced, and fpoke aloud to his
companions, who placed their lances againd a tree,
and came forward in a friendly manner. When they
came up to us, we returned the darts we had taken,
and perceived with great fatisfaftion, that this rendered
the reconciliation complete. Having received from u»
fome trinkets, they walked amicably towards the coaft,
intimating by figns, that they would not fire the grafa
again. , , .

On the 20th, our fhip being ready for fea, the maf-

1 ter was fent in fearch of a paffage to the northward,

but could not find any ; while the captain founded and

buoyed the bar. This day we faw not any Indians ;

but the hills for many miles were on fire, which at

I night made an appearance truly fublimc.

On the 24th, one of the failors, who with others
I had been fent to gather kale, having ftrayed from the
[reft, fell in with four Indians at dinner. He was at
mrft much alacmed, but had prudence enough to con-
Iceal his apprehenfions ; and fitting down by them gave
jthem his knife, which having examined, they returned^'
|He would have leftnhem, but they feemcd difpofcd ta
ktain him, till, by feeling his hands and face, they
irere convinced he was made of fleih and blood like
lemfelves. They treated him with great civility, and
liaviag kept him about half an hour, they made fign^-
^hat he might depart. When he left them, not taking
[the dircft road to the fliip, they came from the fire and
lewed him the neareft way; from whence wc con*
idcd, that they knew frgia whence he cms^

- Mr.

Ha Captain Cook's first Voyage

Mr. Banks liaving gone on ftiore in fearch of plants,
found the cloth that had been diftributed among the
patives, lying in a heap, as ufelefs lumber. Indeed they
feemed to fct very little valne upon any thing we had,
except our turtle, a commodity we were lealt inclined
^nd able to fpare..

On the 29th we got the anchor up, and made all
ready to put to fea. A boat was fent out to afcertain
what water was upon the bar ; when returned, the
officer reported, that there was only 13 feet, which
was fix inches hfs than the (liip drew. We therefore
this day gave up all hopes of failing. On the 30th we
had frelh gales and hazy weather, till Tuefday the 31U
at three in the morning, when the weather became
more moderate. During all the time the pinnace and
yawl continued to ply the net and hook with tolerable
good fuccefs, bringing in at different times a turtle, and
from 2 to 300 weight of fifli.

On the 4th of Auguft, wc once more got under fail,
and put to fca. We flood off E. .by N. with the pin-
nace a head to keep founding. About noon we came
to an anchor, when the harbour from whence we had
failed bore S. 70 W. diftant about five- leauges. The
captain here named the nortiiermofl point of land iq
fight Cape Bedford, and the harbour we had quitted,
Endeavour River. Our lat. by obfervation was 15
deg. 32 min. S» .

Endeavour River is only a fmall bar harbour, which
runs in a winding 'channel, three or four leagues in
J?ind. The depth of water for (hipping is not more
than a mile within the bar, and only on the north fide.
The pnovifions we procured in this harbour confided
of turtle, oyfters of different forts, cavalhe, flat fiih,
flcate or . ray iifli, purHain, wild beans, and cabbagej
.. , palms,

Round the World.

lants,
g tl^e
1 they
e had,
iclincd

ade all
certain
sd, the
which
lercfore
^oth we
the 31(1
became
ace and
[okrable
rtle, and

ider fail,
the pin-
we came
e we had
;s. The_
land io
quitted,
was 15

ir, which
jagucs in
Inot more
lorth fide.
confided I
flat fifti,[
cabbage
palms.1

palms. The foil of the hills, though floney, produces
courfc grafs befides wood, that of the valleys is in ge-
neral well cloathed, and has the appearance of fertility.
The trees are of various forts, of which the gum trees
•.;rc the molt common. On each fide of the river are
mangroves, which in fome parts extend a mile within
the coail.

On the 4th, Capt. Cook went up to the mafl-h.ead
to look at fome dangerous (hoals, feveral of which we
iiiw above water* This day fuch a quantity of fifli was
rauifht, as allowed a dividend of two pounds to each
man. During the fix following days we attempted to
j'.iil betwcn.n the fKoals and breakers, by which we were
every way furrounded. On the loth we were between.
a head land and three iflands, which had been difco-
vf red the preceding day.

On the nth early in the morning, Mr. Banks and
Ciipt. Cook went to vifit the largeft of the three iflands, .
and having gained the fummit of the largeft hill, they
beheld a reef of rocks, whereon the fea broke in a
fiiglitful manner ; but the liazy weather preventing a
j)crfeft view, they lodged under a bufh during thQ
night, and next day feeing what had the appearance of a
channel between the reefs, one pf the mates wasfent out
ill the pinnace to examine it ; and at noon returned,
having found 1 5 and 28 fathom of water. While bufy
in this furvey, Mr, Banks was attentive to his favourite
purfuit, and collc<fted many plaiits he had not feen be-
fore. This ifland vifible at 12 leagues diftance, and in
general barren, we found to be about 8 leagues in cir-
kumference. T'hcre are fome fandy bays and low-land
on the N. W. fide, which is covered with long grafs,
1 and trees of the fame kind with ihofe on the main ;
lizards of a very large fize alfo abounded, fome of which
|iyc took. AVc found alio frefli water m two places j

ri4

Captain Cook*s first Voyage

one running dream, clofe to the Tea, was a little brack-
ifhi the other was a (landing pool perfe(5lly fwcct.

On our return to the (hip, the captain named this
place the Lizard Iflands, on account oi our having
fcen no other animals but lizards. When returning,
we landed on a low Tandy ifland, upon which were
birds of various kinds. We took a neft of young
eagles, and therefore called the place Eagle lOand.

On the i2ih, the officers held a confultation, and
we were unanimous in opinion, that it would be bcft
to quit the coaft altogether^ till we could approach it
with lefs (langerj in confequence of which concurrent
opinion, we failed on the 15th, and got through one
of the channels in the reef, happy at finding ourfelves
once more in the open fea, after having been furround-
ed by dreadful Ihoals and rocks for near three months.
We have now failed above iocxd miles, during which
run we had been obliged to keep founding, without
the intermiflioft of a fingle minute ; a circumftance
which, it is fuppofed, never happened to any one (hip
but the Endeavour.

On the 4th we anchored, and by obfervation, our
lat. was 13 deg. 46 min. S. and at this time we had
ho land in fight. On the 15th we fteered a wefteiiy
courfe, in order to get fight of land, that we might
not over(hoot the paffage, if a paflTage there was be-
tween this land and New Guiney. Early in the after-
noon we had fight of land, which had the appearance
of hilly iflands, but it was judged to be part of the,
main, and we faw breakers between the veil el and thc|
land, in which there was an opening; to get clear wei
fetall our fails, and ftood to the northward till mid-
night, and then went on a fouthward tack for aboutl

three miles, when the breeze died away to a dead caM.

Whea

Round the World.

When day-light came on we faw a dreadful furf
break at a vail height, within a mile of ihe fhip, to-
wards which the rolling waves carried her with great
rapidity. Thus diftrcfl'ed, the boats were fent a-head
to tow, and the head of the veflel was brought about,
but not till flie was within loo yards of the rock, be-
tween which and her was nothing left but the chafm,
and which had rifen and broke to a wonderful height
on the rock j but in the moment we expe£led inftant
deflrudlion, a breeze, hardly difcernable, aided the
boats in getting the vcffil m an oblique diredion fron:i
^he rock. The hopes, however, afforded by this pro-
vidential circumftance, were deftroycd by a perfqdl
palm, which fucceeded in a few minutes; yet the
breeze once more returned, before Y(e had loft the lit- ^
tie ground which had been gained^ At this time a "
fmall opening was fcen in the reef, apd a young OiTicjer
being fent to examine it, found that its breadth did not
much exceed the length of the fhip but that there
was fmooth water on the other lide of the rocks.
Animated by the defire of preferving life, we now at-
tempted to pafs the opening; but this was impoffiable,
for it having become high water in the interim, the
ebb-tide rulhed through it with amazing impetaofity,
carrying the (hip about a mile from the reef, and fhe
foon reached the diftance of near two .miles by the help
pf the boats.

When the ebb tide was fpent, the tide of flood again ^
drove the veflel very near the rocks, fo that our prof-
iptd of deftrudtion was renewed, when we difcovered
another opening, and a light breeze fpringing up, we.
I entered it, and were driven through it, with a rapidi-
ty that prevented the (hip from ftriking againft either
fide of the channel. The (hip now came to an anchor,^
{and our tpen were grateful for having regained a ftation',^
*hiqh they had been very lately moft anxious to quit.

Capt^mn Cook's first Voyage

1 he name of Providence Channel was given to the
opening through which the (hip had thus eCcapcd the
mofl imminent dangers.

On the 17th the boats went out to fifh, and met
with great fuccefs, particularly in catching cockles,
fome of which were of fuch an amazing iize, as to re-
quire the ftrength of two men to move them. Mr. Bank",
likewife fucceeded in his fearch for rare fhells, and dif-
ferent kinds of coral.

On the 21 ft we failed through a channel, in which
was a number of fhoals ; and gave the name of York
Cape to a point of the main land whicli forms the fide
of the channel. In the afternoon we anchored between
fome iflands, and obferved, that the channel now be-
gan to grow wider ; we perceived two diftant points,
between \yhichno land could be fcen, fo that the hope
of having at length explored a paifage into the Indian
Sea, began to animate every bread; biU, to bring the
matter to a certainty, the captain took a party, and
accompanied by the gentlemen, they landed on an
ina«d, on which they had feen a number of Indians,
ten of whom were on a hill, one of them carrying a
bow and a bundle of arrows, the reft armed with
lances. Three of thefe Indians flood on fhore, as if 10
oppofethe landing of the boat, but they retired before
it reached the beach. ■

The captain and his company afcended a hill, from
whence they had a view of near 40 miles, in which
ipace there was nothing that threatened to oppofe their
paflagc, fo that the certainty of a channel feemed to
be almoft undubitable. Previous to'their leaving the
ifland, Capt. Cook difplayed the Englilh colour?, and
tock pollcffion of all the country, from the 38th deg- of

Jl O U N D THE W O R L P.

JT7

S. lat to the prefent fpot, by the name of Kew Soiuh
Wales, for the King of Great Britain.

The next morning we faw three naked women col-
le(Sling fliell-lilh on the beach; anil weighing anchor^
named it Cape Cornwall to the extreme point of the
largeft iiland on the north- weft: fide of the padagc ;
Ibme low iflands near the middle of the channel re-
ceiving the name of WalHs's ille; foon after which the
jhip came to an anchor, and the long-boat was fent out ,
to found. Towards evening we failed again, and the
captain landed with Mr. Banks, on a fmall ifland, tre-
qucnted by immenle numbers of birds, the majority of
which being boobies, the place jreceivcd the name of
Bocby Ifland.

We were now advanced to the northern extremity of
New Holland, and had the fatisracT;ion of viewing the
open fea to the weft ward. The N. E. entrance ot the
pafla^e is formed by the main land of New Holland,
and by a number of iflands, which took the name of
the Prince of Wales's Ifland, and which Capt. Cook
imagines may reach to New Guiney i thefe iflands a-
bound with trees and g.raf?, and v/ere known to be in-
habited, from the fmoke that was feen afcending in
many places.

New South Wales is a much larger country than any
hitherto known, and not deemed a continent, being
larger than all Europe, which is proved by the Endea-
vour's having coafted more than 2,000 miles, even if
her tradl were reduced to a ftrait line. Northward of
the lat. of ^^ deg. the country is hilly, yet not moun-
tainous'; but to the S. of that lat. it is moftly low and
even groui d. The hills in general arc diverUfied by
.lawns and wo^ds, and many of the valleys abound
"" with

fi8 Captain Cook's PIRST Voyage

with herbage, tho', on ^he whole, it cannot be deemed a
fertile cpuntr^f

CHAP.

The Endeavour coutinues her voyage from South

> Wales to New Guiney — An account of incidents up-

. on landing there — Proceeds from New Guiney to the

ifland Savau — Its produdl and inhabitants — Run from

Savau to Batavia — Tranfa(5lions while the Endeavour

was reBttting at this place.

ON the 23d of Auguft, 1770, after leaving Booby
Ifland, we had light airs till five o'clock, when
it fell calm, and we came to an anchor in eight fathom
water, with a fo ft fandy bottom. On the 24th, foon
after the anchor was weighed, got under fail, (leering
N. W. and in a few hours- one of the boats a-head
made the fignal for Ihoal-water. We i.nftantly brought
*^thc (hip to, with all her fails {landing, and a furvey
being taken of the fea around her, it was found that
(he had met with another narrow efcape, as fhe was
almofl encompafled with fhoals, that (he muil have
ilruck before the boat's crew had made the ftgna), if
(he had been half the length of a cable on either fide.
In the afternoon we made fail with the ebb tide, and
got ouf of danger before fun-fer> and brought to for
that night.

Round the World.

119

On the 26th, it was the captain's intention to fteer
>J. W. but having met with thofe (hoals,* altered our
coiufe, and foon got into deep water. On the 27th,
purfued our voyage, fhortenirig fail at night, and
tacking till day-break of the 28th, when we fteercd
due N. in fearch of New Guiney. At this time our
lat. by obfervation was 8 deg. 52 min. S. We here
obferved many parts of the fea covered with a kind of
fcum, to which our failorsgave the name of fpawn.

Land having been this day difcovered from the maft
head, we flood off and on all night, and at day 'break
failed towards it with a brilk gale. Between fix and
fevcn inthe morning we had fight of a fmall lowifland,
at iibout a league from the main, in lat. 80 deg. 13 min.
S. and in long. 221 deg. 25 min W. and it had already
been diftingniflied by the names of Bartholomew and
Whermoyfen. It appeared a very level ifland, clothed
with trees. The boats were fcnt out to found, the
water being fliallow ; but as the ftiip, in ftiiling two
leagues, had found no increafe in its depth, fignals
were made for the boats to return on board. We then
flood out to fea till midnight, tacked, and flood in for
morning.

On the 30th, when a!)out four leagues diftant, we,
had fight of it, and its appearance was flill Hat and
woody. We no t^ held a northward courfe, fcarcely
within fight of land, and as the water was jufl deep
enough to navigate the vefTel, many unfuccefsful at-
tempts were made to bring her near enough to get
on fhore : it was therefore determined to land in one
of the boats, while the fliip kept plying off and on. Ip
confequence of this refolution,

On Sept. the 3d, Capt. Cook, Mr, Banksf, and Dr.>
Solander, attended by the boat*$ crew, and Mr. Banks**

fcrvant^

t2o Captain, Cook's. FIRST Voyage

fcrvant, fet off from the fliip in the pinnace, being in
all 12 perfons well armed. We rowed direftly to the
ijiore, but when come within 200 yards of it, found
the water io fliallow, that we o^vere ol)liged to leave
the boat in care of the failors, and \V4ide to landi \Vc
had no fooner reached the ihore, than we faw feveral
prints of human feet on the fand, below high water
mark, from whence it was evident, that the natives
had been there. We walked by the fide of a wood,
and came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, not far from
which was a flicd or hut, wliich had been covered
with leaves, and near it lay number of frefti iliells of
the fruit. Having now advanced a quarter of a mile
from the boat, three Indians rulhcd out of the wocd
with a hideous ihout, at about the diftance of ico
yards, and has they ran towards us, the foremofl: threw
fomething out of his hand, which flew on one fide oi"
him, and burnt cxaftly like gun-powder, but made no
report ; and the other threw their lances at us. No
lime was to be loit; we difcharged our pieces loaded
with fmall Ihot only ; which we imagine they did noi
feel ; for without retreating, they caft a third dart :
"wc therefore loaded with ball, and fired a fccond time.
It is probable fome of them were wounded, as thiT
uU took to their heels immediately.

We improved this interval, in which the deftruftioii
of the natives was np longer neceflary to our defence,
and with all expedition returned to our boat. In the
way we perceived fignals on board, that more Indianj
were coming down in a body ; and before we got into
the water, we perceived feveral of them coming round
a point at the diltance of about 500 yards. When
they faw us they halted, and feemed to wait till their
main body fliould join them. They continued in this
ilation, v/ithout giving us any interruption, while wc
entered the water, and wuded towards the boat.

Round the World.

r to tlu:
, found

leave
d. Wc
■ feveral

1 water
natives

ii wood,
far from
covered
iliells ot
:,f a mile
he wocd

» of ICO

oft threw
le fide oi'
: made no
[US. No
es loaded
jy did no I
ird dart :
:ond time.
L as thev

P 7 «•

We now took a view of them at our Icifure. They
made much the fame appearance as the New Holland-
ers, being nearly of the fame ftature, and having their
liair fhort cropped. They were alfo like them ftark
naked. During this time they were (houting at a dif-
tance, and letting oiF their fires, which feemed to be
difchargcd by a fiiort piete of flick, probably a hollow
cane, this being fuung fideways, produced fire and
fmoak like that occafioned by a mufquet. The crew
on board the Ihip faw this ftrangc appearance, and '
thought the natives had fire arms, lliofe who went
out in the boat, had rowed a-breaft of them, fired
fome mufquets above their heads, the balls of which
being heard by the natives rattling among the trees,
they retired very deliberately, and our people in the
boat returned to the fliip. This place is in lat. 6 deg.
15 min. S. "

Sv^pt. the 3d, we made fail to the wcftward, being
refolved to fpend no more time upon this coaft; but
before we got under fail, fome of the officers flrongly
urged the Captain to fend a party of men onfhore, to
cut down the coco-nut trees, for the fake of the fruit.
This Capt. Cook, with equal wifdom and humanity,
peremptorily refufed, as unjuft and cruel ; fenfible that
the poor Indians, who could not brook even tlie land-
ing of a fmall party on their coaft, would have made a
vigorous effort to defend their property had it been in-
vaded; confcquently many muil: have fallen a facrifice
on their fide, and perhaps fome of our own people.
" I (hould, (fays Capt. Cooke) have regretted the ne-
ceflity of fuch a meafure, if I had been in want of
the neceiTarics of life; and certainly it would have been
highly criminal when nothing was to be obtained but
[two or three hundred green cocoa-nv.ts; which Would
at moft procured us mere tranfient gratification. I
might indeed have proceeded farther along the coaft
Numb. 6. (^ t^

122 Captain Cook's FIRST VoY AGE

to the northward, or weftwjird, in fearch of a place
\vhere the fliip might have lain fo near the fliore, as to
cover the people with her^ guns when they landed ;
but this would have obviated only part of the mifchief,
and though it might have fecur'^d us, it would pro-
bably in the very a£^ have been fi til to the natives.
Bcfides, we had reafon to think that before fuch a place
could have been found, we fliould have been carried fo
far to the wcflward as to have been obliged to go to
Batavia, which was"* another reafon for making ths bcft
of our way to that place, efpecially as no difcoveiies
could be expected in feas which had already been na-
vigated, and where every coaft had been laid down by
the Dutch geographers."

On the 8th, we pafTed two fmall iflands, on one of
which Captain Cook would have landed, but having
only ten fathom water, the ground being alfo rocky,
and the wind blowing frefh, we might have endangered
the fafety of the fliip. We now failed at a moderate i
rate till the next morning at three o clock ; after which
we had no t^ round with 120 fathoms. Before noon we I
had fight of land, which was conjectured to be either
the Arrou Iflands, or Timor Laoet. We were now in|
lat. 9 deg. 37 min. S and in long. 233 deg. 54 min. W.I
We ftood off" and on during the night, and on the 12th,
we faw a number of fires and fmoke in feveral places,
from whence it was conjedured that the place was
well peopled. The land and fea breezes being very
llii.hr, we continued in light of the ifland for two days,
when it was obferved that the hills reached in many
places quite to the fea coaft, and where that was not
the cafe, there were large and noble groves of cocoa-
nut trees, v^hich ran about a mile up the country, atj
which diftance, great numbers of houfcs and plantati-
ons were feen ; the plantations were furrounded with!
fences, and extended nearly to the fummits of the

mofti

Round the World*

123

, on one o{
but having
a\fo rocky,
endangered
: a moderate
after which
ore noon we
o be either
were now in
54 min. W.
on the i2ih,
vera! places,
place was
s being very
3r two days,
led in many
that was not
es of cocoa-
country, at.
and plantati"
lunded witb
,niits of the
moft

moft lofty hills, yet neither the natives nor cattle were"
iecn on any of them, which was thought a very extra*
ordinary circuiTmance.

On the 16th, we hiid fight of the little ifliind called
Rotcc; and the fume day faw the illand Semau, at a
diflance to the fouthward of Timor. The ifland of
Rotteis chiefly covered with bufliy wood without leaves,
but there are a number of fan palm trees on it, grow-
ing near the fandy beaches; and the whole confift of
alternate hills and valleys. The ifland of Semau is not
fo hilly as Timor, but rcfcmbles it greatly in other re-
fpcdls. At ten o'clock this night a dull reddifli hght
was feen in the air, many parts of which emitted rays
of a brighter colour which foon vanilhed, and were '
fucceeded by others of the fame kind. This phceno-
meiion, which reached about ten degrees above the
horizon, bore a confiderable refemblance to the Aurora
Borealis, only that the rays of light which it emitted
had no tremulous motion: it was furveyed for two
hours, durijig which time its brightnefs continued un-
diminifhed. As the fliip was now clear of all the
jiflands which had been laid down in fuch maps as
were on board, we made fail during the night, and
were furprifed the next morning at the light of an
ifland to the W. S. W. which we flattered ourfelves
[was a new difcovery. Before noon v/p had fight of
loufcs, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large flocks of
leep. This was a welcome fight to people whole
lealth was declining for want of refrefhment, and it
fas inftantly refolved to attempt the purchafe of what-
^veftood fo much in need of. The fecond lieutenant
kvas immediately difpatched in the pinnace, in fcarcli
)f a landing place ; and he took with him fuch things
IS it was thought might be acceptable to the natives. —
"•uring Mr. Gore's abfence, the people on board faw
;wo men on horfeback upon the hills, who frequently

Hopped,

124

Captain Cook's first Voyage

fiopped to take a vievy of the vcffel. The lieutenant
foon returned with an account that he had entered a
little cove, near which ftood a few houfesj that feveral
men advanced and invited him to land; and that they
converfed together fo well as they could by figns.

The lieutenant not being able to find any place in
which the (hip might come to anchor, he was difpaich-
ed again with money and goods to buy fuch necefla-
ries as were immediately wanted for the fick. Dr.
Solander attended the lieutenant, and during their ab-
fence, the fhip ftood of} and on the (bore. Soon after
the boat had put off, two other horfemen were feen
from the (hip^ one of whom had a laced hat on, and
"Was drefled in a coat and waiftcoat, of the fafhion of
Europe. Thefe men rode about on (hore taking little
notice of the bdai, but regarding the (hip with the ut-
mcft attention. As foon as the boat reached the (hore,
fome other perfons on horfeback, and many on foot
haftcned to the fpot, and it was obferved that fome co-
^oa-nuts vftxc put into the boat, from whence it was
concluded, that a traffic had commenced with the na-
tives. A fignal being n[>ade from the boat that the
fhip rnight anchor in a bay at fome diftance, (he im. I
mediately bore away for it. When the lieutenant carae
on board, he reported, that he c^^uld not purchafe any
cocoa-nuts, as the owner of them was abfent» and that
■what he had brought were given him> in return for
which hi had prefled the natives with fome linen. The
method by which he learned that there was a harbour
in the neighbourhood, was by the natives drawing i\
kind of rude map on the fand, in which the harbour,
and a town near it, was reprefented; it was likewife
hinted to hira, that fruit, fowl, hogs, and flieep might
be there obtained in great abundance. He faw feveral]
pf the principal inhabitants of the ifland, who hadi
ch^u^ of gold about their necks» and wore fine linen.
■'■'.•■ ■ ■"■ ' Tkl

»'i

Round the WoRtD.

125

The word Portuguefc being frequently repeated by the
Indians, it was conjeftured that fomc natives of Portu-
gal were in the ifland, and one of the boat's crew being
of that kingdom, he fpokc to the iflanders in his own
language, but foon found that they had only learned a
few words, of which they did not know the meaning.
While the natives were endeavouring to reprefent the
fituation of tlie town near the harbour, one of them, in
order to be more particular in directions, informed the
Englilli that they would fee fomcthing which he endea-
voured to dcfcribc by placing his hngcrs acrofs each
other ; and the Portugucfe failor took it for granted,
that he could mean nothing but a crofs. When the
hoat's crew were on the point of returning to the Ihip,
the gentleman who had been feen on horfeback in the
drefs of Europe, came down to the beach ; but the
lieutenant did not think it proper to hold a conference
with him, b?caufe he had left his commiffion on board
^ic lliip.

When the ftiip had entered the bay, in the evening,
according to the direftions received, an Indian town"
was feen at a diftance; upon which a jack was hoifted
on the fo^e-rtop-mafl head, prefently afterwards three
guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoifted in
die town i the ftiip, however, held on her way, and
came to an anchor at feven in the evening. The co-
lours being feen hoifted on the beach the next morning,
the captain concluded, that the Dutch had a fcttlcment
on the ifland, he therefore difpatched the fecond Heu-
tena' . co acquaint the governor, or other principal re-
fidcnt, who they were, and that the (hip had put in fot
neceffary refrefliraents. The lieutenant having landed,
he was received by a kind of guard of fomething more
than twenty Indians, armed with mufqaets, who after
they had taken down their colours from the beach, pro-
^e?dcd without the Icaft military order j and thus ef-

corted

I j

126 Captain Cook's first Voyage

corted him to the town, where the colours had been
hoifled the preceding evening. The heutenant was
now conduced to the Raga, or king of the illand, to
whom, by means of a portuguefe interpreter, he made
known his bufiriefs. The Raja faid, he was ready to
fupply the fliip with the neccflary refrefhments, but that
he could not trade with any other people than the
Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having
iirlt obtained their confcnt; he added, however, that
he would make application to the Dutch agent, who
was the only white man among them. To this agent,
whofe name was Lange, and who proved to be the per-
fon that was feen from the fliip in the European drefs,
a letter was difpatched, and in a few hours he came to
the town, behaved politely to the lieutenant, and told
him he might buy what he thought proper of the inha-
bitants of the ifland. This offer being freely made, and
readily accepted, the Raja and Mr. Lange intimated
their w idles to go on board the fliip, and that t wo-
of the boat's crew might be left as hoftages for their
fafe return. The lieutenant gratified them in both
thefe requefts, and took them on board juil before din-
ner was ferved. It was thought that they would have
fat down without ceremony; but now the Raja in-
timated his doubts, whether being a, black, they would
permit him to fit down with them. The politenefs of
the officers foon removed his fcruples, and thegreateft
good humour and feftivity prevailed among them. As.
Dr. Solander and another gentleman on board, were to^
lerably proficients. in Dutch, they afted as interpreters
between Mr. Lange and the officers, while fome of the
failors, who underllood Portuguefe, converfed with
fuch of the Raja's attendants as fpoke that language.
Our dinner coniillcd chiefly of mutton, which when the
Raja had taflcd, he requefl:ed of us an Englilh flieep,
and die only one we had left was prefcnted to him.
Our complaifance in this particular, encouraged the
. ' - king

Round the World.

137

]iing to afk for an Englifli dog, and Mr. Banks politely
gave him liis greyhound. A fpying-glafs was alfo put
into his hand, Mr. Johan Chriftopher Lange having in-
timated that fuch a prefcnt would be very acceptable.
Our vifitors now informed us, that the ifland abound-
ed with buffaloes, flieep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of
which fliould be driven down to the ftiore the next day.
This put us all in high fpirits, and the 'liquor circu-
lated rather fafler than either the Indians or the Saxon
could bear; but they h»id, |iowever, the rcfolution to
exprefs a defire to depart, before they were quite in-
toxicated. When they came upon deck, they were re-
ceived in the fame manner as when they came aboard,
by the marines under arms ; and the Raja exprcffmg a
dcfire to fee them exercife, his curiofity was gratified.
They fired three rounds. The king obferved them
with great attention, and appeared much furprifed at
the regularity and expedition of their manoeuvres.
They were difraiffed with many prcfents, and on their
departure, were fainted with nine guns.

Our gentlemen on their arrival at the town, tafted
their palm wine, which was the frefli juice of the
trees, unfermented. It had a fweet, but not difagree-
able tafte, and hopes were entertained, that it might
contribute to recover our fick of the fcurvy.

On the 1 9th, Capt. Cook, attended by feveral gen-
tlemen, went on lliore to return the Raja's vifit ;
but their principal intention was to purchafe the cattle
and fowls, which they had been aflfured the pre-
ceding day (liould be driven down to the beach.
We were greatly chagrined at finding no Heps had
been taken to fulfil this promife : however, we pro-
ceeded to the houfe of aflferably, which, with a few
other houfcs, built by the Dutch Eaft-India Company,
ure dillinguiftied from the reft, by having two pieces of

wood,

128

Captain Cook's first Voyage

wood, refembling a pair of cows horns, fixed at each
end of the roof J and thcfe we coixludcd to be what the
Portuguefc failors couftruft into croflfcs, from the Indian
having crolTcd his fingers when he was dcfcribing the
town. At the houfe of affembly we faw Mr. Liinge
and tlie Raja, whofc name was A Madocho Lomi Djara,
furroiinded by many of the principal people; Capt.Coolc
having informed them, that he had loaded his boat with
goods, which he wiihed to exchange for necelTar^' re-
frefliments, pcrmiiTion was given him to land them.
We now endeavoured to make an agreement for the
hog?, iheep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for
in calh ; but this bufmefs was no fooner hinted than
Mr. Lang took his leave, having firft told the captain
that he had received a letter from the govemor of Con-
cordia, in Timor, the contents of which fhould be dif-
clofed at his return. As the morning was now far ad-
vanced, and we had no provifions on board, we
requelted the Raja's permiffion to buy a fm:Ul hog and
fome rice, and to order his people to drcfs the dinner
for us. He very obligingly replied, that if we could eat
victuals dreffed by his fubjefts, which he could fcarccly
fuppofe, he would do himfelf the honour of entertain-
ing us. A dinner being thus procuretl, the captain fcm
off" his boat to brii?g liquors from the fliip. It was
ready about five o'clock, and after we were feated on
matSj which were fpread on the floor, it was ferved in
fix and thirty baikets. We were then conduced by
turns to a hole in the floor, near which Hood a man
with water in a veflTel, made of the leaves of tlie fan-
palm, who aiEfted us in waJhing our hands. This done
we returned to our places and expefted the king.
Having waited fome time, we enquired the reafon of bis
abfence, and were informed that the perfon who gave j
the entertainment never partook of it with his guefts,|
but that the Raja was ready to come and tafte .of what
was provided, if we catertained a thought that the vie-

tuah I

Round the World.

129^

tuals were poifoned. We declared that we did not
hiirboiir any I'uch fufpicion, and defired that the cuftom
oF the country might not be violated on our account.
The pork and rice were excellent, and the broth not to
bedefpifed; but the fpoons, made of leaves, were fo
fiiiall, that few of us had patience to ufe them. We
did not drink our wine at the, place where we had
dined ; and the remains of the dinner we left to the
feamen and fervants.

When we thought the wine had fo far operated as
to o|)en the heart, we took an opportunity to enquire
after the buffaloes and llieep, of v/hich we had not
in all this time heard a fyllable, tho* they were to have
been at the beach early in tlie morning. Mr. Lange,
the Saxon Dutchman, now began to communicate to us
the contents of the letter, which he pretended to have
received from the governor of Concordia, and where-
in he faid, inftru(fiions were given, that if the Ihip
ihould touch at this ifland, and be in want of provifi-
ons, Ihe ftiould be fupplied ; but he was not to permit
her to remain Ipngerthan was neceflary; nor were any
large prefects to be made to the natives cf low rank.
It is probable that the whole of this ftory was a fiAion;
and that by precluding our liberality to the natives, the
Saxon Dutchman hoped more eafily to draw all the
prefents of any value into his own pocket. In the
evening we were informed, that only a few flieep had
been brought to the beach, which had been driven a-
way before our people could procvire money from the
Ihip to pay for tliem.

Vexed at being thus difappointed in purchafing the
chief articles moft • anted, we remonftrated with Mr.
Lange, who now found another fubterfuge. He faid,
had we gone down to the beach, we niight have bought
what wepleafedj but the natives were afraid of being

|l vnpofci

ijo Captain Cooit*s first Voyage

impofed on by our feamen with coiintcrfeit money.
We could not biit feel fome indignation againft: a man
who had concealed this, being true; or alledged it,
being falfe ; Capt. Cook repaired immediately to the
beach, but no cattle were ta be feen, nor any near at
hand to be bought. The Raj^i indeed had given a
more plaufible reafon for our difappointmcnt : he faid,
the buffaloes being far up in the country, there had not
been time to bring them down to the beach*

On the 20th, Dr. Solander went afliore with Capt.
Gook, and while the former went up to the town to
fpeak to Lang, the Captain remained on the b'^ach
with a view of purchafing provifions* Here he met
with an old Indian, who, as he appeared to have fome
authority, we called him the Prime Minifter. The
captain prcfented him with a fpying-glafs j but only a
fmall buffalo was offered to be fold. The price was
five guineas, nearly twice its real value. Three, how-
ever, were offered, which the dealer thought a good
price; but faid, he mud acquaint the king with what
had been bid before he could ftrike the bargain. A
meffenger was immediately difpatched to the Raja, and
©n his return brought word, that not lefs than five
guineas would be taken for the buffalo. The captain
abfolutely refufed r:o give the fum demanded, which
occafioned the fending away a lecond meffenger, and
^luring his abfence. Dr. Solander was feen coming from
the town, followed by above a hundred men, fome of
whom were armed with mufquets, and others with
lances. Upon enquiring into the meiining of this hof-
tile appearance, the doftor informed us, that the peo-
ple would not trade with us becaufe we had refufed to
'give them more -than half the value for their commo-
dities ; and that we were not to expeft pcrmiffion to
Irade upon any terms longer than this day,

Round the World.

A native of Timor, wliofe parents were Portuguefe,
came down with tljis party, and delivered to the cap .
tain what was pretended to be the order of the R.rija,
and which was in fubftance the fame that Lange had
told Dr. Solander; but it was afterwards difcovered
that this man was a confident of Lange*s in the fchemc
of extortion. The Englifli, gentleman had at the fame
time no doubt, but that the fuppofcd order of the Raja
was a contrivance of thefe men, and while they were
debating how to aft in this critical conjunfture, anxious
to bring the aftair to fpeedy ilTuc, the Porcuguefe be-
gan to drive away fuch of the natives as had brought
pahn-fyrup and fowls to fell, and others who were now
bringing Iheep and bi;ffaloes to the market. At this
junfture Capt. Cook happened to look at the old man
who had been dillinguilhcd by the name of primp mi-
niiler, imagined that he faw in his features a diiappro-
hation of the prcfcnt proceedings; and, willing to im-
prove the advantage, he grafped the Indian's hand, arid
gave him an old broad fword. This well-timed prefent
produced all the good effedls that could be wilhed; the.
prime minifter was enraptured at fo honourable a mark
of diftindion, and brandilhing his fword over the head
of the impertinent Portuguefe, he made botrt him and
a man who commanded the party, lit down bshind him
on the ground. The whole bufmefs was now accom*
pliflied i the natives, eager to fupply whatever was
wanted, brought their cattfe in for fa!e, and the market
was foon flocked. Capt. Cook purchafed of the na-
tives fome hundred gallons of palm-fyrup, a fmall
quantity of garlick, a large number of eggs, fome limes
and cocoa-nuts, thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, fix
fieep, and nine buffaloes. Having obtained thefe
necellary articles, now prepared for failing from this
place.

The ifland of Savu is fituatccj in xo Ceg 35 min. a

lat.

132

'Captain Cook*s first Voyagk

lat. and 237 degi 30 min. W. long. The harbour in
which the Ihip lay was called Seba. The ifland pro-
duces tobacco, cotton, betel, tamarinds, limes, oranges,
mangoes, guiney corn, rice, callevances, and melons.
A fmall quantity of cinnamoo was feen, and Ibme Eu-
ropean herbs, fuch as garlick, fennel, celery, and
marjoram.

The people of this ifland are below the middle (la-
ture; their hair is black and ftrait. The men are well
formed and iprightly, and their features differ much
from each other j the women, on the contrary, have
all one fet of features, arc very (hort, and broad built.
The men hive filver pincers hanging by firings round
their necks, with which they pluck out the hairs of
their beards. The drefs of the men confifls of two
jrieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round
the middle^ and the lower edge of it being drawn pret-
ty tight between the legs, the upper edge is left loofe,
fo as to form a kind of pocket, in which they carry
knives and other things: the other piece being paft un-
der the former on the back of the nearer, the ends of
U are carried over the (boulders, and tucked into th^
pocket before. The women drew the upper edge of
the piece round the waift tight, while the lower edge
dropping to the. knees, made a kind of petticoat: the
other piece of cloth is faftencd acrofs the breaft, and
■under the arms. ♦•

As to the fond of thefc peojple, they eat all the tame
animals to be found in the ifland; but they prefer the
hog to all. others-, the next to this they admire horfe-
flelh i to which fucceeds the buffalo, then poultry;
they prefer cats and dogs to goats and fheep. FilTi,
is not eaten but by the poor, nor by them, except
when their bulinefs requires them to be upon the beach,
jftnd then each man has a light cafting net, which is

R o u jj D THE World,

'33

ddlefta-
are well
er much
ry, have
.ad built,
gs round
i hairs oi
s of two
nd round
awn pret-
left loofe,
hey carry
T paft un-
\Q ends of
d into th^-
er edge of
3V»er edge
:icoat: the
•reaft, and

girt round his body, and with this he takes any fmall
fifli that come in his way.

On the 2 1 ft of Sept. we got under fail, and bent
our courfe weftward. At four in the afternoon, in lat.
lodeg. 38 min. S. and long. 238 deg. 28 min. W. we
difcovered a fmall low ifland. In the evening of the
23d, we got clear of the iflands: and on the 28ih, we
fteered all day N. W. with a view of making the land
of Java, and on the 30th, Capt. Cook took into hia
pofieflion the log-book and journals, at Icaft all he
could find of the oTicers, petty officers, and feamen,
whom he ftridlly enjoined fecrecy with refpe6l to where
they had been. At feven in the evening we had thun-
der and lightening, and about eleven, by the light of
*he flalhes we faw the weft end of Java.

On the and of Odober, we were clofe in with the
coaft of Java, in fifteen fathom water, along which we
ftood. In the forenoon a boat was fent alhore, in order
io prccure fome fruit for Tupia, who was at this time
txtremely ill. Our people returned with four cocoa-
nuts and fome plantains, for which they had paid
a (hilling i but fome herbage for the cattle the Indians
gave our feamen, and aflifted them to cut it.

We new made but very Uttle way till night, when
tbeiand 'cret^ze fpringing up, we failed to the E. 9. E,
and on tiv ' ^Howing day came to an anchor in the road
,of Bata /; A. this place we found a number of large
Dutch vefleis, he'Harcourt Eaft-Indiaman from Eng-
land, which had loft her paflTage to China, and two
ihips belonging to the private trade of our India Com-
Ipany. The Endeavour had no fooner anchored, thaa
a (hip was obferved, wiih a broad pendant flying, from
Iv'hich a boat was difpatched to demand the name of
(tbc vc^^l, with that of the (sommandcr, &:c. To thefe
. " ~ enquiries

n
4

'■ I

' ' ,1*;.;

134 Capt AiN Cook's FIRST V OY AGE

enquiries Capt. Cook gave fuch anfwers as he thought
proper, and the oiEcer who commanded the boat de-
parted.

The captain now difpatched an officer to the go-
vernor of the town, to apologize for the Endeavour's
not fahuing : for he had but three guns proper for the
purpofe, except fwive's, and he was apprehenfive that
they would not be heard. The (hip was fo leaky, that
fhe made about nine inches water in an hour; part of
the falfe keel was gone; one of her pumps was totally
iifelefs, and the reft fo much decayed, that they could
not laft long 7 he olTicers concurring in opinion, that
the (hip coui J » fafely put to fea again in this condi-
tion, the capta^. cfolved to folicit permi(rion to heave
her downj but as he learned that this muft be done inl
writing, he drew up a petition, and had it tranflated in-
to Dutch. ' ' . ' ' '- ^

On the ?oth the Captain and the reft of the gentle-
men went on fhore, and applied to theEnghfh refident|
at Batavia j this gentleman, whofe name was Leitli,
received his countrymen in the politeft manner, andl
entertained them at dinner with great hofpitality. Mr.
Lcith informed us, that a public hotel was kept in
town, by order of tlie Dutch governor, ar which
place merchants and other ftrangers were obliged to
lodge, and that the landlord of the hotel was boundl
to find them warehoufes for their goods, on conditionl
of receiving ten (hillings on every hundred pounds ofj
their value, but as the Endeavour was a king's (liipj
her officers and the other gentlemen might rdidej
.where they thought proper.

In the afternoon Capt. Cook attended the governor-
general, who received him politely, and told him tol
wait on the council the next mornings when his peti-^

iwi

Round the WorlDw

thought
boat de-

I the go-
deavour's
ler for the
nfive that
;aky, that
r ; part of
yas totally
they could
nion, that
this condi-
gn to heave I
be done in I
anflated in-

ihe gentle-
Vilb refident
was Leitli,
nanner, and
tality. Mi-
as kept in,
at whicli
obliged to
was bound
n condition
d pounds of
king's (liip,
ight relidc'

le governor"

told bim t(

[hen bis pen-

\\ol

tion (hould be laid before him, and every thing he fo-
licited fhould be granted.

On the nth Capt. Cook watted on the gentlemert
of the council, who informed him that all his requefts
(hould be complied with. In the interim the other gen-
tlemen made a contrail with the matter of the hotel*
to furnifh them and their friends with as much tea,
coffee, punch and tobacco, as they might have occafion
for, and to keep them a feparate table, for nine (hil-
linc^sa day Englifh money.

Our Indian friend Tupia had hitherto continued on
board on account of his difprder, which was of the
bilious kind, yet he perfifted in refuting every medicine
that was offered him. Mr. Banks fent for him on
(hore, in hopes that he might recover his health.
While in the* Ihip, he was exceedingly liftlefs and low
fpirited, but he no fooner entered the town, than he
feemed as if reanimated. The houfes, the carriages,
ftreets, people, and a multiplicity of other objedls,
wholly new to him, produced an effedl like the fup-^
pofed power of fafcination.

About this time we had procured an order to the
Ifupcrintendant of the ifland of Quruft, where the fliip
[was to be repaired, to receive her there, and by one
|of the fhips that failed for Holland, an account was
fent to Mr. Stephens, fecretary to the Admiralty, of
jur arrival at this place. Here the Captain found an
jnexpefted difficulty in procuring money for the ex-
pences that would be incurred by refitting the Endea-
mur ; private perfons had neither the ability nor in-
clination to advance the fum required ; he therefore
lent a written application to the governor himfelf, wha
ydered the Shebander to fupply the Captain with
fthat money he might want out of the companys tfca-
lury.

Ott

/ 1^, '

1^6 Captain (Book's first Voyac^:

On the 1 8th, wc ran down to Ournfl, and laid the
fliip along fide of the wharf on Cooper's Ifland, in
order to take out her ftores. A little more than nine
days, we began to experience the fatal eifefts of the
dimate and fituation. Tupia funk on a fudden, and
grew every day worfe and worfc. Tayeto, his boy,
was feized with an inflammation on his lungs. Mr.
Banks and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and
the two fervants of the former became very ill; in
lliort, almofl every perfon on board and afliore fell
iick m a few days, owing, as we imagined, to the low
fwampy fituation of the place. >

On the 26th, we erected a tent for the Tick. Tupia,
of W'hofe life we began to defpair, defired to be re-
moved to the fliip, in hopes of breathing a freer air j
however, this could not be done, as (he was unrigged,
and preparing to be laid down at the careening place ;
but on the 28th, Mr. Banks conveyed him to Cooper's
Ifland, and, a^ he Jeemed pleafed with the fpot near
ivhich the ihip lay, a tent v/as pitched for him.

- On the 5th of Nov. after many unavoidable delays,
the fliip was laiJ down, and the fame day My. Monk,
houfc, our furgeon, fell a facrilice to 'his fatal coun-
try. 3Dr. Solander was jufl able to attend his funeral,!
but Mr. Banks in his turn was confined to his bed.
The power of difeafe, from the pefl;iferous air of the
country, daily gaining ftrength, feveral Malay fervams
were hired to attend the fick, but they had fo littlel
fenfe cither of duty or humanity, that the patient wa$|
Dbliged frequently to get out of bed to fcek them.

On the 9th our Indian boy Tayeto paid the debt of,

. nature, and Tupia was fo affefted at the lofs, that itl

was doubted whether he would furvive it till the iiex

day.

Round the World.

Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were now fo worn
down by their diforders, that the phyficians declared
tliey had no chance for recovery but by removing into
the country. In confequence of this advice a houfe
was hired for them, at the diftance of about two miles
from the fown, which belonged to the mailer of the
hotel, who engaged to fupply them with provifions,
and the ufe of flaves* As they had already experi-
enced the unfeeling inattention of thefe fellows to
the fick, they bought each of them a Malay woman,
who from the tendernefs of their fex, made them good
nurfcs. While thefe gentlemen were taking meafures
for the recovery of their health, tliey received an ac-
count of the death of Tupia, who funk at once after
tlie lofs of his boy, Taycto, whom he loved with the
tendernefs of a parent : They were both buried in the
iiland of Edam.

On the 14th the bottom of the lliip was thoroughly-
repaired, and much to Capt. Cook's fatisfaftion, who
bciiowed great encomiums on the officers and work-
men at the marine-yard ; in his opinion there is not one
in the world, where a (liip can be laid down with more
convenient fpecd and fafety, nor repaired with more
diligence and Ikill.

At this time Capt. Cook was taken HI. Mr. Sport-
ing alfo, and a failor who attended Mr. Banks, were
feized with the deadly intermittents, and only ten o£
the (hip*s company were capable of doing duty. Yet
noiwithftanding thefe perplexing obftacles, though ha-
rafTcd by a contagious dileafe, and alarmed by frequent
deaths, we proceeded in rigging the (hip, and getting
water and neceffaries ftores aboard: the ftofes were
eafily obtained and (liipped, but the water we were
obliged to procure from Batavia, at the rate of fix Ihil-

S lings

^^1

>38

Captain Cook's first Voyage

lings and cight-peuce a leager, or one hundred and fiftj
gallons*

On the 25th m the night, there fell fuch a fliower
of ruin; as even all of us had caufe to remember. The
water poured thro* every part of Mr. Banks's houfe,
and the lower apartments admitted a ftream fufficient
to turn a mill. As this gentleman now was greatly re-
ftored in health, he went to Batavia the following day,
and was furprifcd to fee that the inhabitants had hung
their bedding to drj^. About the 26th of this month
the monfoons fet in v it blows in the day time from the
N. or N. W. and from the S. W. during the night ;
previous to this there had been violent fliowers of
rain for feveral night?.

The fliip being repaired, the fick people received
©n board her, and the greater part of her water and
ftorcs taken in, flie failed from Ouruft on the 8 th of
December, and anchored in the road of Batavia:
twelve days were employed in receiving the rc-
■maindcr of her provifions, water, and other necefla-
ries, though the bufmefs would have been done in
much lefs time, but that fome of the crew died, and
the majority of the furvivors were fo ill, as to be una-
ble to givje tJicir aiTiftance*,

On the 24th, Capt. Cook took leave of the governor,
and fome other gentlemen, who had diftinguiflied
thcmfelves by the civilities they fliewed him ; but at
thK junfture <m accident occurred, that might have
produced confequences by no means defirable. A
Batavia, deferted from the vefTel, and entered himfclf
on board the Endeavour. The captain of the Dutch
ihip having made application to the governor, claiming
the delinquent as a fubjeft of the States General, the
governor ilTued his order for the reftoration of the

mani

Round the World.

^39

man ; when this order was given to him, he faid, that
man Ihould be given up if he appeared to be a Dutch-
man. As the captain was at this time on fliore, he
{Tiive the Dutch officer a note to the Ueutenant, to de-
liver the defsrter on the condition above-mentioned.

On the following day the Dutchman waited on Capt.
Cook, informing him, that the lieutenant had abfolute-
ly refufed to give up the fearaan, faying he was an
Irifliman, and of courfe a fuhje6t of hii Britannic Ma-
jefty ; Capt. Cook applauded the conduct of his officer,
and added, that it could not be expe<Jled that he fliould
deliver up an Englilh fubjeft. The Dutch officer then
faid, he was authorifed, by the governor, to demand
the fugitive as aDanifli fubjeft, adding, that his name
AViis entered in the fliip*s books as having been born at
Elfineur. The Dutchman now took his leave, and he
had not been long gone before the captain received a
letter from the lieutenant on board, containing full
I proof that he was an Englifli fubjedl. This letter the
captain carried to the (hebandcr, defiring him to lay it
before the governor, and to inform him, that the mam
Ihould not be delivered upon any terms whatever. This
(pirited conduct on the part of Capt. Cook, had the
jdelired effeft ; and thus the matter ended..

This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks and
[the other gentlemen who had hitherto lived in the town,,
|repaired on board the Ihip, which got under fail the
next morning. The Endeavour was faluted by the
fort, and by the Elgin Eaft Indiaman, which thea lay
p the road j but foon after thefe compliments were
returned, the fca-brccze fetting in, they were obhged.
ko come to anchor. Since the arrival of the Ihip. in;
kavia road, every perfon belonging to her had been;
11, except the fail- maker, who was more than 70 years.
few, yet this man got drunk every day while we re*

' n

»■ '. 1

140

Captain Cook's first Voyage

mained there. • We buried feven of our people at
Batavia, viz. Tupia and his boy, three of the failors,
the fervant of Mr, Green and the furgcon ; Jind at the
time of the veflel's failing, 40 of the crew were fick,
and the reft fo enfeebled by their late illnefs, as to be
fcarcely able to do their duty.

C II A P.

XII.

^n account of Batavia, and its various produftiotis—
The Endeavour fails from Batavia to the Cape of
Good Hope—The Cape and St. Helena defcribed—
Remarks on the Hottentots — ^I'he Endeavour returns
to England, and anchors in the Downs on Wedntf-
day, June 12, 1771.

BAtavia, fituatcd in 6 deg. 10 min. S. lat. and 106
deg. 50 min. E. long, from the meridian of Green-
wich, is built on the bank of a large bay, about 20
miles from the ftreight of Sunda, on the north fide of |
the ifland of Java, on a low boggy ground. Several 1
fmall rivers, which rife 40 miles up the country. There
are wide canals of nearly ftagnatcd water in almoil
every ftreet, and as the banks of the canals are planted
with trees, they appear at firft very agreeable; but]
thefe trees and canals combine to render the air pefti-
lential. Some of the rivers are navigable, more chiinl
30 miles up the country; and the Dutch appear to have!
chpfcQ this fpo| to l^uild the town on, for the fake ofl
' ' ' ' ■ •• ■ ' ;^ater|

U ^ ^' y

<■ t;...-

Round the World.

141

water carriage, in which convenience Baiavia exceeds
every place in the NVprld, except the towns of HoUand.

The pew church in Batavia, is a fine piece of build-
ing, and the dome of it may be feen far off at fea.
TJiis church is ilhiminated by chandeHers of the moil
fuperb workmanfhip, and has a fine organ: mofl of
the other public buildings arc ancient, conftrufted in
an ill tafte, and gave a very compleat idea of Dutch
clumfinefs.

Batavia is encompafied by a river of flrallow water,
the ftream of which is very rapid j witliin this river,
which is of different widths in various places, is an
old fione wall, much decayed in many placts, and
within the •.rail is a canal, wider in fome places than in
others, (o that there is no entering the gates of the
town but by crofiing two draw bridges ; there are but
few on the ramparts, and no perfons are permitted to
walk there. There is a kind of citadel, or caflle, in
the N. E. corner of the town, die walls of which arc
both broader and higher than they are in other parts ; it
ii> furniflied v/ith a number of large guns, which com-
piand the landing-place.

ApartmCiits are provided in this cafiJe for the go-
vernor-general and all the council; and in cafe of a
fiege they have orders to retire thither. In the caftlc
are likewife a jiumber of ftore-houfes, in which the
effects belonging to the company are depofited. The
company have in their poflefiion large quantities of
gunpowder, which is kept in different places, that the
lightning may not deftroy the whole ftock at once ; a
great number of cannon are likewife laid up within
the caflle. There are a great many forts built in diffe-
rint parts of the country, feveral miles diflant from
Batavia, moll probably erefted to keep the natives ia

fubjeftion y

142

Captain Cook's first Voyage

fubjcfti n ; and bcfides thefe there arc a number of for-
tified hoiifcs, each mounting eight guns, which are fo
Ihitioncd as to command the canals and the roads on the
borders. There are houfcs of this kind in many parts
of the iiland of Java, and the other iflands in its ncigli-
bourhood, of which the Dutch Imve obtained poffcf-
fion. The Chinefe having rebelled againlt them in the
year 1 704, all their principal houfes were demoliflied
by the cannon of one of thefe fortified houfes, which
is in the town of Batavia, where, likewife^ there are a
ftw more of them.

The fruits of this country are near forty in number,
and of fomc of thefe there are feveral kinds. Pine-ap.
pies grow in fuch abundance, that they may be pur-
chafed for the value of an Englilh farthing. The fwcct
oranges are good of their kind, but dear at particular
times. The (haddocks of the Weft Indies, called here
pamplemoofes, have an agreeable flavour. Lemons
arc very fcarce, but limes are altogether plentiful, and
fold at little more than two-pence a fcore. There are
many kinds of oranges and lemons, but none of them
excellent-. Of mangoes there are plenty. Of bananas,
there are an amazing variety of forts, fomc of which
being boiled, are eaten as bread, while others are fried
in batter, and are a nouriihing food: but of the nu-
merous forts of fruit, three only are fit to be eaten :
one indeed is remarkable, becaule it is filled with feeds,
which are not common to the reft, Grapes arc fold
from one fliilling to eight-pence a pound, tho* they
are far from being good. Tamarinds are cheap and
plentiful. The cocoa nut is plentiful i|i this country,
and there feveral kinds of this fruit, the bell of which
is very red betw,^en the llicll and the fkin.

In this couniry fweet fcented flowers are plentifuf,
many fpecics of which being entirely unknown, arc

worth

Round the World.

^43

worth remarking. The combang tonquln, and corn-
bang carenafli, are particularly fragrant flowers, which
bear fcarcely any rcferablance to any of tliofe flowers
with which we arc acquainted. They are very fmall,
and Teem to be of the dog's- banc fpecics. The ca-
munga, which is more like a bunch of leaves than a
flower, is of a fingul.ir fmcll, but very grateful. The
bon tanjong, is of a pale yellow caft, and has a very
agreeable fmcll; it is about an inch and an hulf in
circumference, and confifl;s of pointed leaves, which
gives it the appearance of a ftar. There is alfo an ex-
traordinary kind of flower called fundal malam, which
fignifics the intriguer of the night. This flower has
no fmell in the day-time, but as night comes on, it has
a very fragrant fcent, and is very much like the Kng-
lifh tuberofe. Thefe flowers being made into nofcgays
of different fliapcs, or ftrung upon thread, are carried
thro' the flreet for falc on an evening.

A plant called the pandang is produced here, the
ves of which being flired fmall, and mixed \yith
oilier flowers, the natives of both fexes fill their
cloaths and hair with this mixture,, which they like-
wife fprinkle on their beds, and fleep under this heap
of fweets, a thin piece / chints being their only
I covering.

Formerly the only fplce that grew on the ifland of
I Java was pepper. A confiderable quantity is brought
from thence by the Dutch, but very Hitle of it is made
life of in the country. The inhabitants prefer cayan
[pepper, and are fond of cloves and nutmeg, but thefe
Ifirft are too dear to be commonly ufed. Near the ifland
jcf Amboyna are fome little ifles, on which the cloves
Igrow, and the Dutch were not eafy till they all became
[their property. Scarcely any other nutmegs are found
aut on the irfand oi Banda, which however furnifhe*

enough

I 1.

144 Captain CooK.*s PIR s T VoYAGti

enough for all the nation that have a demand for that
commodity. There are but few nutmeg-trees on the
coaftof Ne\V Guinea. The ifland of Java, of vi'hich
we have already fpoken, produces horfes, buffaloes,
Iheep, goats^ and hogs. The fort of horfes faid to
have been m?t wi^ here vvhen the country was firft
difcovered, appeared to be nimble animals though
fmall, being generally feldom above thirteen hands
high. The horned cattle of this country are different
from thofe ot Europe, 'i^hey are quite lean, but of a
very fine grain. The Chinele and the natives of Java
cat the bufFaloe flefh, which the Dutch conftantly re-
fufe, b^ing imprelTed with a (Irange idea that it is fe-
verifh. The (heep are hairy like goats, and have long
cars : they are mollly found to be tough and ill-tafted.
There happening to be a few from the Cape of Good
Hope at Biuavia^ fome of them were purchafed at the
rate of one (hilling a pound.

In this country palm- wine and arrack are very plen-
tiful. Of the former there are three forts, the fail of|
which is drank in a few hours alter it is drawn from
the tree, and is moderately fweet ; the fecond and
third forts are made by fermentation, and by putting
feveral forts of herbs and roots into the liquor.

In Java, the rcligon of Mahomet is profcfied, for]
•which reafon the natives do not make ufe of wine pub-
licly ; but in private they will not rcfufe it. They ulfol

chew opium, whofc intoxicating qualities proves irsj
recommendation to the natives of India.

Some of the Indians are very ri::h, keep a great]
number of flaves, and live, in all refpeds, accordingl
to the cuftom of their countries, while others are envf
ployed to carry goods by water: and others again fiiN

join,

and th

jSiiniati

contini
three ol
'anchor!
teen hi
Jprociire
much u|
(tavia.
Numl

o u 1^ D T H E World,

145

Tifl: by .fiftiing.. The oranflams, or believers of the
faith, feed principally on boiled rice, mixed with a
ifmall quantity of dried flirimps and other fifli, whicli
are imported from China, and a litrie of the. flefli of
huffaloes and chickens j they arc fond of fruit, of which,
they eat large quantities, and with the flour of the rice
they make leveral forts oif paltry.

When a marriage is to be folemnized amon^ them, all
the gold and filver ornaments that can be procured, are
uorrowed to deck out the young couple, who, on thefe
occafions, never fail to make the moll fplendid appear-
ance ; fumptuous entertainments are given by thofe
who can afford them, which continue twelve or four-
teen days'i and frequently more, during all which time
the women take care that the bridegroom (hall not vifit
his wife privately, tho' the wedding takes place previous
to the feflival.

On the 27th of December, early in thf, morning. We
weighed, left the harbour of Batavia, and ftood out to
fca. On the 29th, after much delay by contrary winds,
we v/eathercd Pulo Pare, and ftood for the main. On
the fame day pafled a fmall ifland between Batavia and
i^antam, called Mancater's illand. On Sunday the
30th, wc weathered Wapping and Pulo Babi iflands,
and the next day, being the 31ft, wc ftood over to the
i Sumatra fliorc.

\ \

On the kft of Jan. we fteered for the Java fhore, and
I continued our courfe, as the wind permitted us, till
three o'clock in the afternoon of the 5th, when we caft
anchor on the fouth-eaft fide of Prince's Ifland, in ci'jh-
jteen fathom water, in order to recruit our ftorcs, and
Iprocure refrefliments for the fick, many of whom were
Irnuch worfe than they were at our departure from Ba-
Itavia. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, accompanied by

Numb. 7. T the

t4^

Captain Cook's first Voyage

the captain ind other gentlemen, went on fliore. We
met upon the beach feme Indians, by whom we
were conducted to their king. Having exchanged a
few compliments with this perfon, we entered upon
bufmefs, but in fettling the price of turtle could not a.
gree. Upon this we took leave, the Indians difperfed,
and we proceeded aloag ftiore in fearch of a watering,
place. We happily fucceeded in finding a very conve.
nient one, and had reafon to believe, with care in
filling, it would prove agreeable to our wiflies.

On our return, fome Indians, who remained with a
canoe upon the beach, fold us three turtles, but we |
were obliged to promife, that we would not tell the
king. On the 6th we renewed with better fuccefs our
traffic for turtle. About noon the Indians lowered
their demands flowly, infomuch, that before the even.
ingtliey accepted our ftipulated price, aiad we had tur.
tie in plenty.

Mr. Banks, in the evening, paid a vifit to the king,
by whom he was received very gracioufly at his palace
in the middle of a rice field, notwithflanding his maje-
fty was bufily employed in drefiTrng his own fupper.
The day following the Indians reforted to the trading.!
place with fowls, fifli, monkeys^ fmall deer, and foinel
vegetables ; but no turtle appeared till the next daj-J
after which fome were brought to market every d;iy|
while we ftaid there, but the whole quantity togcthcrl
was not equal to that we bought the day after our arj
rival.

On the nth, Mr. Banks having received intelliJ
gence from a fervant he had hired at Batavia, that ihcl
Indians of this ifland had r. town fituated near thtj
fliore, to the weftward, he ietermined to go in fcarc
of the fame. With this vie>v lie fet out in the monij

■m

. Wc
m we
nged a
d upon
I not a.
fperfed,
atering-
conve.
care in

Round thb World,

147

ino-, accompanied by tlie fecond lieutenant ; and appre-

hendiBg his vilk might not be agreeable to the natives,

he told fuch of them as he met, that he was in fearch of

plants. Having come to a place were there were three

or four houfes, they met wath an old man, of whom

tlicy ventured to make a few enquiries concerning the

town. He would have perfuaded them, that it was at

a great diftance ; but perceiving that they proceeded

forward, he joined jcompany, and went on with them.

The old man atteinpted feveral times to lead them out

f the way, tho* without fuccefs ; b^t when at length

hey came within fight of the houfes, he entered cor-

ially into their party, and conducted them into the

own, the name of which is Samadang.. It confifts of

bout 400 houfes, and is divided by a brackifli. river

nto two parts, one called the old and the other the

ew town. When they had entered the former, they

ere accofled by feveral Indians whom they had icen

t the trading-place, and one of them undertook to

rry them over to the new town, at 2d. per head.

he bargain being made, they embarked ia two fmall

anoes, placed along fide each other, and laflied toge-

er, to prevent their ovcr-fetting. They landcil (xt'c-

, though not without fome difficulty; and wh hey

me to the new town, the people fliewed them c v er y

ark of cordia\ friendihip, Ihewing them the houfes of

I ' 1 W^^^ '^"^S '^^'^ principal people. Few of the houfes
|y togctKt»^j.g ^pgj^ ^^ ^j^j^ ^j^^,^ ^j^^ inhabitants having taken
.er ou -Bp jj^^j^. j-^fij^i^^.^ \^^ ^i^^ rice-grounds, to defend their
ops againft the birds and monkeys, who without this
rcell'ary caution would dellroy tlv^m.

d with a
but we

: tell the I

ccefs our I
lowered!

the even.

; had tur.l

the king,
his palace
his maje.
n fupper.
e trading.
and fome
next clay,'
levery day

led intelli'l
that M
near thq
lo In fcarc
the nlo^l^
■inJ

[when their curiofity was fatisfied, they hired a large>
[ling-boat for two rupees, value 4s. which conveyed
t:ni to the bark time enough to dine upon one of the
Jail deer, weighing only 4olb. which, proved to be
fading good and lavory food. In the evening wc

a^aiii

148

Captain Coo K.*s FIRST Voayce

again went on ftiore, to fee how our people went on,
who were employed in wooding and watering, when ue
were told, that an axe had been ftoleh. Application
were- immediately made to the king, who, after fonie
altercation, promifcd, that the axe Ihould be rcftoredj
in the mornrng ; and in was accordingly brought us by
a man, who pretended, that the tliief, afraid of a dif.
CO very, had left it at his houfe in the night.

On the 13th, having compleated our wood and wa>
ter, Mr. Banks took leave of his maxfty, to whom lie]
had made feveral trifling prefents, and at parting, gave
him two quires of paper, which he gracioufly accepted,
During their converfation, the king encjuiyed why the
Englifh did not touch at the ifland as they had ufed tol
do. Mr. Banks repHed, that the reafon was, as lie]
fuppofed, becaufe they found a deficiency of turtle, ofl
which there not being enough tb,fupply one Ihip, manjl
could hot be expefted ; and to fupply.this defeft, Mr]
Banks advifed his majcfly to breed cattle, buffaloes, anJ
fheep J but' he did not feem difpofed to adopt this pru.[
dent meafurc. ' • , . - , .

On the 14th, we had got on board a good flock oi
frelh provilions, confifiiing of turtle, fowl, fifli, two!
fpecies of deer, one about the fize -of a fheep, tliiT
other not bigger than a rabbit ; alfo cocoa-nwij
plantains, limes, and other vegetables. The dcerj
however, fcrved only for } refent ufe, for we could fclj
dom keep one of them alive more tjian twenty-foii
hours. ■ • • ...

On the 15th we weighed, with a light lueeze ati
E. and flooid out to fea. We took our departure froj
Java Head, which is in hit. 6 deg. 49 min. S. and
long. 253 deg. 12 min. W,

Round the World.

149

In the month of February we held on our courft,
find made the bed of our way for the Cape of Good
Hope; but now the fatal feeds of difeafe, our people
had imbibed at Batavja,. began to appear, with the molt
alarming fymptoras, in dyfenteries and flow fevers. Our
fituation in a Ihort time was truly deplorable, and the
fliip was little betf^r than an hofpital, in which thofe
who did duty, were too few to attend thofe who were
Gonfined to their hammocks. Many of thefe were in
the lail flage of the deftructivc diforder ; and almoft
every night we committed a body to the fea. Hr,
Banks was aTiong the number of the fick, and for feme
time we defpaired of his life. In the courfe of fix weeks
we buried Mr. Sporing, a gentleman of Mr. Banks**
retinue; Mr. Parker, his natural hiilory painter; Mr;
Gieen the ailronomer, the boatfwain, the carpenter
and his mate ; Mr. Monkhoufe the midfliipman ; our
jolly fiiil -maker and his alliftant ; the cook, the corpo-
ral of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a
midfliipman and nine failors ; in all 23 perfons, belides
7 at Batavia.

On the 15th of March, we brought the fliip to an '
anchor off the Cape of Good Hope. Capt. Cook re-
paired immediately' to the governor, who chearfully
J)romifed him every rcfrefliment the country afforded ;
bn which a hotife was hired for the fick, and it was a-
greed they fliould be lodged and boarded for 2s. each
inan per day.

At the time the Endeavour lay at the Cape of Good
Hope, the Houghton, Indiaman, (iiiled for England.
She had buried near 40 of her crew, and wlien flie left
the Cape, had many of her hapds in a heiplcfs condi-
tion, occafioned by the fcurvy. Other fliips likewife
Experienced a proportionable lofs by ficknefs ; fo that
^ ^« • ■• our

I50

Captain Cook*s first Voyage

our fufFerings were comparatively light, confidering
that we had been near three times as long.

' We cofitinued at the Cape till the 13th of April, in
order to recover the fick, procure (tores, and to do
Come neceffary work upon the ihip and rigging. When
this was finilhed we got all the fick on board, feveral
of whom were ftiii in a dangerous ftate; and on the
14th, having taken leave pf the governor, we unmoored
and got ready to liul,

The hiftory of Caffraria is well known in Europe,
and a defcription of the Cape of Good Hope has been
given by moft of our circum-navigators ^ yet we think
an account of ihis country will be acceptable tp our
numerous fubfcribers ; and they will meet with fomc
particulars which fell under our obfervation, that have
cither been wholly omitted or mifreprefented in other
narratives.

The Cape of Good Hope, which is the moft fou-r
them part of Africa, was firft difcovered, A. D. 14931
by Bartholomev^ Diaz, admiral of a Portuguefe fleet,
who on account of the boifterous weather he met with
when near it, diftinguilhed it by the name ot Cabodos
totos Tormentos, or the Cape of all Plagues i fince
which, no place in the univerfe had been more fpoken
of. The reafon why it has fo much attradled the at-
tention of mariners of all nations, is, their being under
the necellliy of frequently calling there for water and
other refrelhments, and aUo of doubling it in their
voyage to the Eaft hidies. But John king of Portugal
not liking the name which his admiral had bcftowedl,
upon it, changed it to that of Cabode Bona Efperanca,
the ** Cape of Goud Hope," which appellation it has
€ver fjnc^ retained.
. " ■ ' Neither

RpuND THE World.

i5»

Neither Diaz, nor liis fucceflbr Vafco de Gama, tlio*
they faw the Cape, thought proper to land: but in
1498 the Portuguefc admiral, Rio del Infanta, was the
firrt who ventured on fliore ; and from his report, Ema-
nuel, king of Poi«tugal, determined to eftablifli a colo-
ny; but the Portuguefe, having' taken it into their
heads, that the inhabitants of the Cape were Canni-
bals, were too much afraid of being devoured, to
obey their fovereign in making the fcttlement he intend'^,
cd: however, fbme time after, another body of thofc
tiitiid adventurers made good their landing, under the
conduft, of Francis d*Almeyda, a viceroy of Brafil,
when the Portuguefe were ihamefully defeated by the
fcarce armed, And unwarlike natives. The viceroy and
50 of his men being killed in the engagement, the re-
mainder retired with jSreeipitation to their Ihips. The
Portuguefe determined to be revtnged ; but not having
magnanimity enough to fliew a becoming refentment,
they contrived a moft inhuman and cowardly ex-
pedient. '

About two years after, touching at the Cape, they
landed with all the appearance of amity, accompanied
with ftrong profeffions of friendfliip, and under this,
malk brought with them a large cannon loaded with
grape-fliot. The unfufpefting natives, overjoyed by
the gift of fo great a treafure, began to drag it away
by the means of two long ropes, which had been pre-
vioufly fallened' to the muzzle. Great numbers laid
hold of the ropes, and many^ others went before by
way of triumph, when the treacherous Purtugue/e
firing oif the cannon, a prodigious flaughter enfued, as
moft of the people flood within the range of the fhot.
Many were killed, feveral wounded ; and the few who
efcaped, abandoned with th,e utmoft precipitation the
fatal prefent.

. About

152

Captain Cciok*s first Voyag^

About the year x 600, the Dutch began to touch at
, the Cape, in tlieir way to and from the Eaft-Indies \
und becoming anilually more fenfible of the importance
of the phice, tiiey eiFefted ii fettlemcnt in 1650, which
jince that time had rifcn to great power and opulence j
nnd been of effential fcrvice tb that nation; M. Van
Ricbeeck, a furgeon, in hi^ return from India," obferv-
ing the convenicncy df the place for a fettlement, and
laying before the Dutch Eafl -India Company a plan of
its advantages, tlie fcheme was approved, and the pro-
jedor appointed governor. This adventurer failing
with four fliips to the cape, entered into a negociation
v/ith the people, who, in confideratioi^ of fitty thou-
fiind guilders, or four thoufand three hundred and fc-
Ycnty-live pounds ftcrling, agreed to yield up to the
Dutch a confiderable tra^t ©f country round the cape.
Van Ricbeeck, in ord^'r to fecure his new purchafe, im-
mediately ertiSfed a ftrong fquare fortj laid out a large
•garden, and planted it with a great variety of the jiro-
duftions from Kurope< that he might render the place
as commodious and'agreeable as poilible.

■ Having thus fuccefsfuUy founded a fetderaent, the
Dutch Company propofed, in order the more efte(fl:n-
ally to edablilh it, that every man, who would fettle
three years at the Cape, iliould have an inheritance of
fixty acres of land, provided that during that fpacc he
would fo improve his eftate, as to render itfufficient to
maintain himfclf, and contribute fDmewhat towards the
.jnamtainance or the ganifon ; and at the expiration of
the time, he might either keep iKjffelTion of , it, or fell
it, and return home. Induced by thefe propofals, ma-
ny went to feek their fortunes at the cape, and were
furnifhed on credit with cattle, gram, plants, untenfils,
&c. The planters, however, at length grew weary of
their habitations for want of conjugal fociety: there-
fore the governor of the Company, to prevent their

leaving

itoUND THE World.

i$i

leaving the jilacc, provii^d them with wives from the
orphan-houfesi and othe* charitable foundations. Irt
procefs of time they greatly incrcafed, and fpread
themfelvcs farther lip the country, and along the coaft^
till they occiipicd all the ?ands from Sandanna Bay^
round the fouthem point o: Africa, to Noffel Bay, on
the E. and afterwards purchafcd Terra de Natal, in or-
der to extend their limits ftill farther;

On the firfl: fettlement of the Dutch at the Cape,
all the Hottentot tribes did not acquiefcc in the fale of
the cbiiiltry to foreigners ; for the Gunyemaifls diflented
from the agreement of the others, andj in 1659, dif*
puted the poiTeffion of the purchafcd territories vvith
the Dutch. They always made their attack inboiftcr-
ous .weather, as thinking the fire-arms then of lefs ufe
and efficacy ; and tipon thefe occafions they would muri
dcr indifcriminatcly all the Europeans they could meer,^
burn down their houfes, and drive away their cattlci
But the Hottentots themfclves at length growing tired
of the war, 100 of them, belonging to one nation,
came unarmed to the Dutch fortj with a prefent of
13 head of fine cattle, in order to fu6 for peace. This^
it may be imagined^ was readily graiited Ijy the Dutch,
who were heartily fick of a conteft, in vhich themfelves
were fuch great lofcrs, without reaping any advantages
from iti

*rhe land over the cape, which conilitiites thii penin-
fuli formed by Table Bay on the N. and Falfe Bay on
the S. confifts of high mountains, altogether naked and
defolate : the land behind thefe to the E. which may
be confidered as the ifthfnus, is a plain of vaft extent,
confifting almoft wholly of a light kind of fea fand,
which produces nothing but heath, and is utterly inca-
pable of cultivation.

Cape

154 Captain Cook's FIRST Voyage

Cape town is the only one the Dutch have built
here, and it confifts of about looo houCs, neatly
bui't of brick, whiied in general on the ourfide. They
are cover'!:d only with thatch, for the violence of the
S. E winds would render any other roof inconvenient
and dangerous. The ftrcets are broad and commodi-
ous, crolTing each other at right angles. The Iioufes
in general have pleafant gardens behind, and neat
court yards before theni.

The town extends from the fea (bore to the Com-
pany's garden, fpreading along Table Bay. The fort
IS in i\ valley^a't a fmaVl diftance, its form pentagonal,
it commands the landing-place, and is garrifoned by
200 foldiers. The governor's ftorehoufes are within ir,
other ol-cers befideshimfelf have apartments here, as
well as ^00 fervants. The hofpital for lick feamen is
of ellential viCc to the Dutch ileets in going to and re-
turning from India.

What is mod to be admired at the Cape, is ths Com-
panys gardens, where they have introduced almoft all
the fruits and flowers that are found in the other three
quarters of the g'obe; moft of which are improved,
and flourilh more than they did in their refpedlive cli-
mates ; and the garden is watered with fprings that
fall down from Table mountain juft above them. Ap-
ple- and pears are planted here, with grapes of Afia, as
well as thofe of Europe Here are alfo lemons, oranges,
citrons, figs, Japan apples, and a great variety of other
fruits.

Notwithftanding the natural fterility of the climate,
induftry has fupplied this place with all the nece^raries,
and even luxuries of life in the greateft profufion.
The beef and mutton are excellent, though the oxen
and (hecp are Datives of the country. Good butter is

. . made

Round the World.

^5S

buWt
leatly
They
)f the
enient
modi-
liovifes
[ neat

; Com-
hc fort
agonal,
»ned by
ithin ir,
lere, as
;amen is
and re-

tis Cora-
imoft all
ler three
rproved,
5live cli-
ngs that

. Ap.

Afia> as
I oranges,

of othci'

climate,

tcCiraries,

)rofufion.

Ithc oxen

butter is
made

made from the milk of cows, but the cheefe is inferior
to ours. Here are hog?, and a great variety of poul-
try; alfo goats, but thefe lad are never eaten. Hares
are to be found exadly like thofe in Europe ; like ife
many kinds of antelopes; quails of two forts, and buf-
fards, all well flavoutd*

The fields jiroduce European wheat and barley ; th6
gardens European vegetables ; fruit of all kinds, be-
fides plantains, guavas, jambu» and other Indian fruits.
The vineyards alfo produce wines of various foris, but
not equal to thofe of Europe, except tlie Conftantia*
which is made genuine only at one vineyard, about
ten miles diftant from the town. There is another vine- -
yard near it. where wine is made, and called by thd
fame name, but it is gready inferior.

There are great numbers of domeftic animals in the
various colonies and fettlemenis at the Cape, and the
woods and mountains abound with wild beafts. The
horfes, which were brought originally from Perfia, are
of a bay or chcfnut colour, but rather fmall. Among
the wild beafts the elephant claims the firft place. The
rhinoceros is of a dark a(h colour, and has a fnoutlike
a hog. At the Cape,, wolves are of two kinds; the
one refembles a fhsep-dog, and is fpotted like a tyger ;
the other is Hke a European wolf.

Lions* tygers, leopards, &:c. alfo abound here^ and
iare fo troublefome, that the perfon who kills one of ei-
thc; fuit^ is rewarded with 25 florins, or iifty fhillings.
The flcli of the lion is efteemed equal to venifon, and
Itlie fat much valued. Here are much larger buffaloes,
[than in Europe,

We faw here elks 5 feet high, with horns a foot
I long. Another fmgular animal^ is that called ilinkbox^

trom

«5<J

Captain Cook^s first VoyAoe

from its offenfivp fmell both living and dead. Wild
cats are of fevcr^l forts. The firft the Dutch, called
the civit cat, not that it is really the animal of that
name, bi;t becaufe of the fine fcent of the fl;in. The
next the tygpr <:at, from its being fppttcd like a tygcr.
The third the mou itain cat, which refemblcs thole of
Europe. The- fourth is the blue cat, having a line
tinge, yvhh a beautiful red lift down itsj bs^ck. '

IV^any jackalls, ermines, baboons, rnonkeys, &c. arc
fpvmd about the Cape, and frequently do great mifchief
in the gardens. The porcupine is very common, and
}ts flelh efteemed delicious. There are" two foits of
wild aflcs, one of which is a beautiful creature, called
fhe ztb:a, and isliker to ap horfe than an afs ; its'legs
are fine, has a twilled tail, round flelhy haunches, and
a fmooth Ikin, The females are white and black, and
^he males white and brown. The colours are flreaked
in an admirable manner, fo as to appear to a diftant be-
liolder as if covered with ribbons. •

■•• •• ■■■■ ■:•■.■.... .i . , ; . • ,',.

A great variety of birds and fowls are found at the
Cape, both wild and tame. Here are three forts of Ea-
gles, namely, 1. The bone-breaker?, who feeds on tor-
toifes, to pbtain the f^elh of which, it ufes this fingular
method. Having carried the tortoife alofr in th.ie air, it
drops it upon fome hard rock, by which means tljje Ihell
is broken, and the eagle can come cafily at its prey. 2.
The dung-eagle, which tears out the entrails of ani-
jmals to cibfift on, and tho' no bigger than a goofe, is
ftrong and voracious. 3. The duck-eagle, (o called,
becauie it feeds principally upon ducks. ■ *

But of all the numerous birds that are to be found
here, the flamingo is one of the raoft fingular. It has
a long neck, and is larger than a fwan : the legs are

the!

jrcjTiarkab'y long, and of an orange taw ney, and

fee

Round the World.

»5f

feet are like thofe of a goofe : the bill contains blue
teeth, with black points i the head and neck are iniircly
white i the upper part of the wings are of a bri^^ht flame
colour, and the lower black.

N' w we ccme to fpeak of agriculture j for the Hot-
tentots in general deteft the very idea of cultivation,
and ypvild fooner ftarve than till the ground, fo greatly
are they addided to floth and indolence. The working
ot the plough is here fo laborious from die llifTnefs of
the foi , that it frequently requires 20 oxen to one
plough. The fovyirig feafon is in July, and the harveft
about Chrillmas. The corn is notthralhcd with a flail,
but tiod out by horfes or oxen, on an artificial floor
made of cow dung» ftraw, and uater, which when
mixed together cements, and foon becomes perfedlly
hard. It is laid in an oval form. The cattle are con-
fined by halters, which run from one to the other, and
the driver (lands in the middle, where he exercifcs a
long flick to keep them continually to a quick pace.
By this method half a dozen horfes will do more in one
day, thun a dos?en men can in a week.

The women in general are very handfome: they have
fine clear fliins, aiid abloom of colour that indicates a
purity of conftitution, and high health. They make
the befl: wives in the woirld, both as milireHes of a fa-
mily and mothers, and there is fcarcely a houfe that
{does not fwarm with children.

There are fixteen Hottentot nations, which inhabit
this fouthern promontory. The ftature of the Hotten-
tot men is ftom 5 to 6 feet high; their bodies are pro-
portionable, and well made ; they are feldom either too
fat or leap, and fcarce ever any crooked or deformed
perfons amongft them, any farther than they disfigure
their children thcmfelves by flatting and breaking the

gnftles

158 Captain Cook's FIRST VoAYG E

griftles of their nofes, looking on a flat nofe as a beau-
ty. Their heads as well as their e-}'es, are raiher of the
Jargeft: their lips are naturally thick; their hair black
and fhort like the negroes, and they have exceeding
white teeth.

The women are much lefs than the men ; and vvliat
is mv:)ft remarkable in them, is a callous flap or fkin
that tails over the ■ udenda, and in a maniier conceals it.
The report of hich ufually excites the curiofiiy of the
European failors. to vifit the Hottentot villages near
the Cape, where a gieat many of thofc ladies, on feeing
aftranger, will offer tu fatisfy their cunolity.for a half-
penny, before a crowd of people.

When a Hottentot brings a fon into the world, there
is great rejoicing; but the firft thing they do with the
child, is to aub it all over with cow- dung: then they
lay it before the fire, or in the fun, till the dung is dried:
after which they rub it off. and wafn the child with the
juice of certain herbs, laying it in the fun, or before
the fire again, till the liquor is dried in; after which they
anoint the child from head to foot with butter, or fhtep's
fat melted, which is dried in as the juice was; and tnis
cufl:om of anointing their bodies witli fat, they retain
afterwards as long as they live. After the child has
been thus fmcarcd and gieafed, the mother gives it
what name Ihe thinks proper, which is ufually the name
of fome wild bead, or domeftic animal* When the
woman is veil again, and able to leave her hut, fhe
rub herfelf with cow-durg; and this filthy datibing is
by thefe delicate peope termed a purification. Being
thus perfumed, and e'egant'y decorated with flicep's
guts, Ihe is permitted to go abroad, or to fee company
at home.

If the woman has twins, and they are girls, the man

propofcs

Round the World.

I5SI

a beau-
:x of the
ir black
ceeding

nd what
or ikin
iceals it.
Y of the
ges r.car
311 feeing
)r a half-

Id, there
with the
thtn they
r is dried-.
1 with the
1 or before
hich they
or (htep's
and tnis
ey retain
child has
gives it
the name
A^hen the
hut, (he
aublng is
Being
h (heep's
company

\, the man
propofes

propofes it to the kraal, that he may expofe one of them
cither upon pretence of poverty, or that his wife has
not milk for them both ; and in this they indulge one
another; they do the fame when they have a boy and
;i(rirl, but always preferve the boys, though they hap-
ipen to have t\Vo at a birth. The expofed child is car-
hied to a diflance from the kraal j and if they can find,
a cave or hole in the earth, that fome wild beads has-
made, they put the child alive into it: and then having
Itopped up the mouth of the den with flones or earthy
lleave it there to ftarve.

They do not deal thus, however, as has been ob-
Iferved, by their male children ; on the birth of a boy,
Ithey kill a bullock, and if they have twins, two bul-
locks ; and make an entertainment for all the neigh-.
3ourhood, who congratulate the parents on their good
fortune; and, as with us, the greateft rejoicings are on
[he birth of the firll fon.

At the age of eighteen, the male hottentots, being
fleemed men, are admitted into male focicty: the men
pf the village fqr.at dowii, and form a circle, as is
hfiial upon public occallons, the youth fquats down
kithout the circle, at fome diftancc. The oldeft man
bf the kraal then rifes from the circle, and, having ob-
ained the general confent for the admiflion of a new
nember, he goes to the youth, acquaints him with the
letermination of the men of the kraal, and concludes
lis harangue with fome verfes, which admonilh him to
jehave Uke a man for the future.

The youth being then daubed with foot and fat, and
brinkled with urine, is congratulated by the company in
leneral in a kind of chorus, which contains the follow-
\ wiflies : thai: good fortune may attend him, that

may live long, and thrive daily ; that he may foon

have

i6o CaI'tain Cook's first YoYAai

have a beard j and many childreri ; till it is univerfully
allowed he is a ufeful man to the nation. A feaft coii.
eludes the ceremony, but the youth himfelf is not per,
mitted to participate of any part thereof till all the ref^
arc fcrved.

Having been thus admitted into the male fociety, it
is expefted that he Ihould behave ill to women in gene.
ral, and to his mother in particular, in order to evince
his contempt of every thing feminine: Indeed it i^
ufual for a youth as foon as admitted, to go to his mo-
ther's hut, and cudgel her heartily, for which he is-
highly applauded, by the whole krrfal j and even the
fuiFering parent herfelf admires him for his fpirit, and
protefts that the blows do not give her fo much pain,
as the thoughts of having brought fuch a mettlefome
fon into the world afFord her pleafure^ The more ill
treatment he gives his mother, the more efteem heob.|
tains; and every time he llrikcs her (lie is in thehigh^
eft raptures, and thanks providence for having bleffed I
her with fuch a fpirited child.

The Hottentots are exceeding fuperftitious, ad I
fond of divination. In order to know the fate of afickl
perfon, they flay a flieep alive ; after having its Ikin in-
tirely taken off, if the poor animal is able to get up andl
run away, it'is deemed a propitious omenj but, onthej
contrary, if the execruiating pain kills it, they im;i-
gine that the patient will certainly die, and accordingly
give him up intirely to nature, without taking any tur-i
there care of him.

Whatever they believe of departed fouls, they havel
no notion chher of heaven or hell, or of a ftate of re{
wards or puniihraents ; this is evident from the bthaj
viour of a dying Hotttentot, and thofe about him;l
neither he or his friends cffer up any prayers to theirl

godij

Round the World*

i^i

frods for the falvatioh of his foul ; or mention the
ftate of departed fouls^ or their apprehenfions of his
being happy or, mifcrable after death: however, they.
fet up icrrible howHngs and ihriekings, when the lick
man is in his laft agonies ; and yet ihefc very j^eople
are frequently guilty of murdering their anticnt parents,
as well as their innocent children j for when the father of
a family is become perfe^ly ufelcfs and fuperannuated,
he is obliged to alTign over his ftock of cattle, and every
thing elfe he has in the world, to his eldeft fon; and in
default of fons, to his next heir male : after which, the
heir erefts a tent or hut in fome unfrequented place, a
good diftjance from the kraal or camp he belongs to ;
and, having affembled the men of the kraal, acquaints
them with the condition of his fuperannuated relation,
and dcfires their conifent to expofe him in the diftant
hut; to which the kraal fcarce ever refufe their confent.
Whereupon a day being appointed to carry the old man
td the folitary tent, the heir kills an ox,^and two or three
ftieep-, and invites the whole village to feaft and be
merry with him ; and at the end of the entertainment,
all the neighbourhood come and take a formal leave of
the old wretch, thus condemned to be ftarved or de-
voured by wild beafts: then the unfortunate creature is
laid upon one of their carriage oxen, and carried to his
lad home,attended to the place, where he is to be buried
alive by mofl of his neighbours. The old man being
taken down, and fct in the middle of the hut provided
for him, the company return to their kraal, and he
never fees the face of a human creature afterwards; they
never fo much as enquire whether he was ftarved to
death, or devoured by wild beafts: he is nomore thought
of, than if he had never been. In the fame manner
they deal with a fuperannuated mother; only as ftie has
nothing (lie can call her own, ihe has not the trouble of
affigning her efFefts to her fon. Whenever the Hotten-
tots aae upbraided with this unparallclled piece of bar-

X barity.

■

I
J

)62

X!1aptain Cook's first. Voyaig te

barity, they r^ply, it woilld be a much greater ctuelty
to fuffer an old treature to lartguifti out a miferable life,
and to be rtiany yeiirs a dying, thati to make this quick
difpatch with them j and that it is odt of their extreme
tendernefs they put an end to the lives of thefe old
wretches; all the argument m the world againft the
inhumanity of the cuftom, tart make no impreffion
on them : and, indeed, as long as the Dutch h^ve re.
lided at the cape, they have not been able to break thera
of one finglc euftom, or prevail with them to alter any
jiart of their conduft, how barbarous or abfurd foever :
and, it feems, the captain of a kraal is not exempted
from feeing his funeral folemniz-d in this ittanncr, while
he is alive, if he happens to become ufelefs. And this
kids us to treat of fuch funerals as are folemnized after
the pcrfon is really dead* ,

The fick tain, having reigned his breath, is im-
feicdiatcly bundled up, neck and heels together, in his
fliecp-lkin mantle^ exceeding clofe, fo that no part of
the corpfe appears : then the captain of the kra^l with
fomc of the ifeniorSj fearch the neighbouring country
for fomc cavity in a rock, or the den of a wild bead,
to bury it in, never digging a grave, if they cart find
ohe of thefe within a moderate diftance* After which,
the whole kraali men and women, prejiarc to attend the
corpfe, feldorti permitting it to remain above ground
more than fix hours* When all things arc ready, all
the neighbourhood affemblc before the door of the dc-
ceafed, the men fitting down on their heels in one
circle, and refting their elbows on their knees (their
ufual pofture) as the wom<?n do in another : here they
clap their hands, iiud howl, ci-ying, Bo, bo, bo ; (i. c.
father) lamenting their lofs. The corpfe being thea
brought out on that fide the tent, where the perfon
died, and not at the door, the bearers carry him in
their arms to the grave, the men and women follow it

ROUMO THE WORLP.

«63

in different parties, but vvithout any manner of order,
crying all the way. Bo, bo, bo ! and wringing their
hands, and performing a thoufand ridiculous gefturcs
and grinaaces, which is frequently the fubjeft of the
Dutchmen's rwrth j it being impoffiblc, it is faid, to
forbear laughing at th^ autic tricks they fliew on luch
an occafion. Having put the corpfe into the cavity
prepared for it, they flop up the mouth of it with anc
[jiills, {tones, and pieces of woot^, believing the ants will
feed on the cbypfe^ and fpoh confume it. The grave
Wing flopped up, the men and: women rendezvous
igain befor6 the terit jof.the deceafed, where they repeat
[heir howling, and frequently call iipon the name of
[heir departed friend : after which two of the olde^
Tien get upj and one of them going into the circfe''
bf the men, and the other into the circle 'of the ,
Tomen, urine upon every one of the company ; and^;
pere the kraals are (o vciy large, that two cannot find *
rater enough for this ceremony, they double or treble-
k number. Then the old men go into the tent of
icdeceafed; and, having tiken up fame aflies from
[e fire-place, they fprinkle them upon the bodies of .
[e people, blefTrng them as they go : and,- if the de-
afed was a perfoh of diftiniftion, this is afted over
|ain feveral days. But we fhould have remembered,
f( the ceremony always concludes with an entertain- '
nt. If the deceafed nad any cattle, a fheep is killed
iht occaHon ; and the caul being powdered with
phu^ is tied about the heir*s neck, who is forced to '
^e it while it rots off, which is no great penance, ail .
|ks being perfume's to a Hottentot. All the relations
wear the cauls of fheep about their necks j which
Kms is their iiiournirigjunlcfs the children of the
pafcd are fo pbor, that the)r cannot kill a flieep ;
[then they fhave their heads in furrows of about an
broad, leaving "the hair on of the fame breadth
'een every furrow. '"' Jr.

HVEih

mi:',

"•fft

164

Captain Cook's first Voyage

■ It is not an eafy matter to come at a Hottentot's n-.
ligious notions ; he is fparing of his words, and liconic
in his anfwers upon all occafions ; but wheii reli pious
topics are introduced, he generally conceals his fenti.
ments in fiience. Some on this account have doubted
whether, the Hottentots have any religion at all : but the
moft intelligent, among the Dutch at the cape pofitivclj '
affirm, that they believe in a Supreme Being, whom they I
ftile Gounya Taquoa, or God of Gods, and fancy that
his place of refidenceis beyond the moon." Thjjy iillowl
that Gounya Taquoa is a humane benevolent being, yctj
they have no mode of worfliippinj^him ; for which theJ
give this reafoh, " That he curfed their firfl parents foj
having greatly offended him, on which accou'iit'rlieiil
pofterity have never from that time paid him adoriuioD.*p
They believe that the moon is an inferior vifible goi
and the reprefentativc of the high and invifible : that I
has the dire£tion of the weather ; and therefore tliei
pray to her when it is unfeafonable. ' They iieveri
to affemble and worfliip this planet at the new audfij
moon, let the weather be iiever fo bad ; and though tM
diftorf their bodies, grin' and put 011 very frigM
looks, crying and howling in a terrible manner, yettSj
T»a ve focpe cxpreffioiis that ftiety ' their veneration ;
dependarice on this inferior deity ; as <* Mutfchi Aii
I falute you ; you are welcome ; Chcraqiia kaka m
Ounqtia, grant uS pafture for our cattle and plcntjl
milk.' Thefc and other Jjfayers to the moon die'yf
peat, frequiently dancing and clapping their handsl
the while; and, at the end of every dance, crying,!
ho, ho, ho ! raifirlg dnd falling their voices, andi
abundance of odd geftures, that appear ridiculous]
European fpcftators ; and which no doubt, made 1
at firft, before they knew any thing of tJieil- langii
Conclude, that this could not be thef effcift of devotj
efpecially when the people themfclves told them, iti
iiot an a^ of religion, but only intended for their dij

Round the World.

.6j

flon. They, continue thus fliouting, rniging auci .dan-
cing, with proltrations on the earth, the whole night,
and even part of the next day, with fome fliort inter-
vals, never refting, unlefs they are quite fpent with the
violence of the adtion; and then they fquat down upon
their heels, holding their heads between their hands,
and reding their elbows on their knees ; and, after a
little time, they flart up again, and fall to finging
and dancing in a circle as before, with all their
might.

The Hottentots alfo adore a fly about the bighefs of a
hornet, called by fome the gold beetle ; whenever they
fee this infcft approach their kraal, they all alltmble
about it, and fnig and dance round it while it remains
there, ftrewing over it the powder of buchu, by bota-
nifts called fpira^am ; which when it is dried and pul-
verized, they always powder themfelves vvith it atfefll-
vals." They 'ftrew the fame powder alfo over the tops
of their tents, and over the whole area of the kraa.1, as
t teltiniony "of their veneration for the adored fly.
They fiici'ifice' alfo two flieep as a thankfgiving for the
favour fliewn their kraal, believing they fliall certainly
profper aftet fijcli a vifit : and, if this infe<5l happens
to light upon a tent, they look upon the '"Vner of it
for the futute as a faint, knd pay him more than ufual
i*cfpe£l. ' The beft ox of the kraal alfo is immediately
facrificed, 'to teftify their gratitude to the little winged
deity, and to honour the faint he has been pleafed thus
to^diftinguifli: to v/hom the entrals of the beaft, the
ch'oicefl: lAorfel in their opinion, with the fat and the
caul is prefented ; and the caul being twilled like a
rope, the faint ever after wears it like a collar about
his neck day and night, till it putiifies and rots off;
and the faint only fealls upon the entrails of the beafl,
Ivhile the reft of the kraal feed upon the joints, that
ire not in fo high eft?cm among them : with the fat of

w^ ■■•■■.■• •" ■■ thp

1^66

Captain Cook's first Voyage

ihe facrifice alfo the faint anoints his body from time to
time, till it is all fpent ; and, if the fly lights upon a
woman (he is no lefs reverenced by the neighbourhood,
and entitled to the like privileges. It is fcarce poflible
to exprefs the agonies the Hottentots are in, if any Eu-
ropean attempts to take or, kill one of thefe infers, as
the Dutch will fometimes feqn to attempt, to put them
in a fright : they will beg and pray, and fall proflra^e
on the ground, to procure the liberiy of this little crea-
ture, if it falls into a Dutchman's h^nd«i ; they are on
fuch an occafion, in no lefs confternatio^ thfin the In-
dians near Fort St. George, when the kite, with a white
head, which they worfliip, is in danger. If. a. fol-
dier takes one of thefe alive, and threatens to wring tlie
neck of it off, the Indians will gather in crowds about
hjm, and immediately colleft the value of a ihilling or
two, to purchafe the liberty of the captive bird they
adore. But to return to the Hottentots : they imagine
if this little bird Ihould be killed, all the cattle would
die of difeafes, or be deftroyed Ijy wild beafl:s ; and
they themfelves fliould be the moft miferable of men,
and look upon that krall to be doomed to lone immi-
nent misfortune, where this animal, feldom appears.

The Hollanders have fent feveral revcrend.dlvines to
the cape as mifiiotiaries, who have fpared no pains to
bring the Hottentots off from their idolatry, and induce
them to embrace Chriftianity ; even their tovetoufnefs
and ambition have been applied to, and temporal re-
wards offered tham, on condition of their being inftruc-
ted in the principles of Chriftianity. But no motives
whatever, whether thofe relating to this or aiiother ftatCj
have yet been able to make the leaft imprcfBon on
any one of them : they hold fad and hug theiir aitcient
fuperftitions, and will hear of no other religion. ' The"
reafon that they neither imitate the Europeans in their
building, planting or 'cloathing^ is becaufc they ima-
gine themfelves to be rcligioufly obliged to follow the

cuftoni.5

kbu>»t» THE WoRLib."'

167

cufloms of their anccftors ; and that, if they fhould
deviate from them in the lead of thefe matters, it might
make way for a total change of their religion and man-
ners, which they cannot think of without abhorrence.
Oiie of the Dutch governors at the cape bred up an
Hottentot from his mfuncy, obliging him to follow the
fafhions and cuftoms of the Europeans, to be taught
feveral languages, and to be fully inflrufted in the prin-
ciples of the Chriflian religion, cloathing him hand-
fomely, and treating him, in all refpeft's, as a perfon
for whom he had i. high efteem j and let him know,
that he deiigncd him for fome beneficial and honourable
employment. The governor afterwards fent him a
voyage to Batavia, where he was employed, udder the
commilTary his friend, for feme time, till that gen-
tleman died ; and then he returned to the cape of Good
Hope : but, having paid a vifit to the Hottentots of
his telatioiis and acquaintance, he threw off all his fine
cloaths, bundled them up, and laid them at the gover-
nor*s feet, and defired he would give him leave to re-
nounce his Chriftianity, and hve and die in the religion
and cuftoms of his anceftorsj only begged the governor
would give him leave to keep the hanger and collar he
wore for his fake ; which wile the governor was deli-
berating with himfelf upon, fcarce beheving the fellow
to be in earneft, the young Hottentot took the oppor-
tunity of running away, and never came to the cape
afterwards, thinking himfelf extremely happy that he
had exchanged his European cloths for a Iheep fliin,
and the reft of the Hottentots drefs and ornaments :
the Englifh Eaft India company, we are informed, made
the like experiment, bringing over two of that nation
hither, whom they cloathed decently after the Euro-
pean manner, and ufed them, in all refpefts, with the
grcateft goodnefs and gentlenefs, hoping, by that
I means, to be better informed of the condition of their

country.

i6%

Capt AiN Cook's FIRST Voaygb

.: J

country, and whether it might be wofth the while to
make a fcttlcmcnt there: but the two Hottentots only
learnt Englilh enough to bewail their misfortune in be-
ing brought from their country and their friends ; and,
after two years trial of them, being again fet on Ihore
at the cape, they immediately (tripped off their Euro-
pean cl oaths, and, having taken up the (heep fkin man-
tle again, rejoiced beyond meafure for their happy ef-
cape from the Englifli.

The poor Mdtt^ntotes (ometlmes employ themfelves
in making arms, viz. bcws and arrows, lances and darts,
bartering them with the rich for cattle, to begin the
world with : others get elephants teeth, and what they
do not ufe in making rings and ornaments for them-
felves, are genera' ly difpbfed of, it is thought, to the
Poftugufe and other Europeans who touch at Terra de
Natal, and other parts of the eaftern or weftern coaft<

The Hottentots fell very few teeth to the Dutch;
though it is manifeft they kill abundance of elephants:
they fupply the Hollanders however with cattle, and
take wine, brandy or tobacco, in return ; and an ox
may be purchafed of them for a pound of tobacco, and
a large (heep for half a pound.

As to coin, the reader v/ill concUide they have none;
nor do they ever fee any, unlcfs fome fmall pieces of I
moLeythey Dutch fometimes gave them for their wages]
at the Cape-, and it muft not be forgot, that the Hotten- j
tots find abundance of oftrich's eg^sin the fand, vh'cli
they barter with the fea-faring men, that touch at thc|
cape, for brandy and tobacco ; every failor almoft b:-
ing proud of bringing home one of thefe egg (hells toi
his friends, after he has fried and eaten the yolk, whichl
makes a large pancake, and is pretty good food, butra-i

ther of the ftrongeft.

Their

Round the WoRLDi

169

iheir butchers are faid tb be great atrtifts in their
^vay, and to handle a knife as de^terbufly as an anato-
mift: having tied tlie hind and fore legs of a fhecp,
they tlirow the creature on his back, and with cords-^
two of thenn extend it to its full iftretch. while a third
rips it up ♦ fo that all the entrails appear: then, with
one hand, be tears the guts from the carcaO, and, with
the other, ftirs the Wood, avoiding as much as he can
the breaking any of the blood-veliels about the heart ;
fo that the (beep is a long time a dying : in the meaa
time he gives the guts to another^ who juft rids them
of the lilth, and rincesthemin water, and part of them
are boiled and eaten amongft them, before the fheep is
well dead : having fcobped the blood out of the body
of the animal with their hands or fea fhells, they cut
the reft of the guts in fniall pieces, and drew them in
the blood, which is'the Hottentots favourite difli. An
ox alfo is killed in the fame barbarous manner j being
thrown upo-i his back, and his legs extended with cords,
be is ripped up, and his guts taken oiit firft ; in which
cruel operation the beaft is half an hour a dying : they
leparate the parts with great exadlnefs, dividing the
flefh, the bones, the membranes^ mufcles, veins, and
arteries, and laying them in feveral parcels every thing
entire. The bone^; alfo are taken out of the flefli, and
laid together in fuch order^ that they might be cafily
formed into an exaca Ikeleton : thefe they boil by them-
I'elves, and get the marrow out of them, with which
ihey anoint their bodies. Of the fheep (kin, as has
been obferved already, they make a mantle, if it be
jarge i but^ if it is fmall, they cut it into thongs, to
adorn their women's legs : and .the hide of an ox ferves
either to cover their tents, or to rriake girts or ftraps of,
with which they bind their baggage on their carriage
oxen when they decamp j and, if they have no other
life for their ox-hides> they lay them by, and eat them
when they want oih^r food.

Numb. 8.' Y They

i;o

Captain Cook's first Voyaob

They liavc another artificer, who is both fclmonger
and taylor : that is, he drefles (kins after their way,
and then makes them into mantles: he takes a fhcep
lldn jnft flayed off, and, rubbing it well with fat, the
Jkin becomes tough and fmooth j and, if it be for one
of his countrymen, he rubs it over alfo with frelh cow-
dung, and lays it in the fun till it is dry : then he rubs
it with fat and cow dung again ; which he repeats fe-
veral times, till it becomes perfedly black, and (links
fo that no European can bear it -, and then, with a lit-
tle fhaping and fcwing, it is a compleat mantle for a
Hottentot : but, if it be drelTcd for a Dutchman, he
only rubs the Ikin well with fat^ which fecures the wool
from coming off. If he be to drefs an ox's hide, he
rubs the hairy fide with wood aihes \ then fprinklingit
with v/ater, rolls it up, and lays it a day or two in the
fun i which expedient effe£lually brings off the hair;
this (kin is then well greafed, ftretched out, and dried
again, when it is deemed gpod leather.

Their fmiths do not only fafhion their iron, but melt
if from the ore : they find plenty of iron ftones in feve-
ral p"arts of their country i and having got a heap ot
thefe, they put them Vnta a hole in the ground, heated
and prepared for their purfofe ; then they make a firei
over the ftones^ which they fupply with fuel, and keep
it up till the iron melts v and then it runs rnto another
bole, whiwh they make for a reeeiver, a little lower than
the firft : as foon as die iron in the receiver is cold chey
break it to pieces with ftones; and, heating the pieces I
again in other fires, beat them wkh ftones, till they'
fhape them into the heads of lances, darts, arrows, and
bows, and fueh weapons as they ufe ; for they fcarce
ever form any other utenfils, but arms of this metal:
they get the hardeft flat ftonc, according to monfieur
Vogel, and, laying the iron upon it, as upon an anvilj
beat it with another round ftone, which fervcs them

for

RoundthkW^„

"* VV R T, u^ ^^^

do wi,h all his tclj .1 ey have Ze c„"'"^'^" <="»'''
ivhich they melt in like tianner T,t „^^" "" '°".
toys and ornaments for ,he1? drVfi, nf ''"^ ""^^^^ ""'v
indeed, do they ever work in il5 1^ '''," """I : „or,

did not fometimes compel thern to U ! ,^"' neccflities
do, no people work harder^ '"= ""^'i "•'«" they
oMhey never leave a piece'of'^'^^j^^ '"f^fttigably^

ninilhed it. ^ "^ >v°'^k. till they have

The ivory-turner makes the ivorv r: ,
ornamentally about the a m^ 1^,^^' '^^^^^
f'scnly tool .s a common clafb kn V^ ^°?^^«ing ihac

The potter or mak^r ^c

."'fbutthi., it f^t Vei aTiirH "'^'^^ «»"<"her
f mily making the pots anrt ^ ^ ' «'«Wous at. everv

|evufeonythc*S"ofC!h ?/7°'-. ^^'^^^ '
K'^'^K/avel, after wWch hi' ='*""■".« «hem o£
*'tli the bruifed ants e<,<rl .i. ' ""^y ^^k t toeether
nraordinary cement '^^),«^"'''efaid '° conftuK
»terials into a kind of r^n 7 ''^''* moulded thefe
h« will "-ake o^nc ote o™'^ «»ke as much o^.
N upon a flat flone. maS ?► / J^l- '^*'<'n it by
K»i" • then they fm^th :"* '^,°^ *e form of a Ro!
plly. not leaviL the L„ft '""? ""'^ witHout ver^
h "nd, haying drfed it n ,h r"^'"''''^ »?"« 'he fur-

fy put theiotVo a hole i^thl"" ""T ""«« day .
Nkmg a fire over it Lh "'\e"""d. and burn it '
Appears perfeftfy i^^. ""^' «.hea they take it o^^

JJ2 Captain Cook's first Voyage

plat them into mats fo plofely, it is faid, that neither
the weather or light caii penetrate them.

The laft artificer* we fhall mention is the rope-maker,
who hns no better materials, than fiich flags and nifheii
as the mats are made of; and yet they appear almoftas
ftrong as thoi'e made of hemp : the Dutch, at the cape,
buy and i^fe them in plowing, and in draught-car-
riages.

As to the way of travelling here, the nations all travel j
on foot, except the aged and infirm; andthefearej
carried on their baggage oxen. As there are no inns or
places for refrelhmeiit, the travelling Hottentot callsat
the "kraals in his vsray, where He meets with a hearty
welcon^e from his countrymen, who endeavour to fliewl
their hopitality to ftrangers, whether of their own |
country or of Europe. Such indeed is the general ur-
banity of thefe people, and their ftrift integrity vvheiij
tiny confidence is placed in them, that when the Hoi-f
landers travel either on foot or horCeback, if theycanj
not reach an European fettlement, thty itlfocall at till
kraals of the Hottentots, where they are coiiiplimentedT
with a hut, and (lich proviiiong as they have, or tlie]|
may lie in the area of the kraal, iii the open air, if thei
pleafe, and the' weather be good ; and here they ai
i«cure, both/ from robbers and wild beafts; for tli|
bufhis banditty on the niountains are dangerous, as thei
give no quarter ; but the Hottentot nations in generj
hold them in abhorr'ence, and unanimoufly concur j
feiziiig and puniOiing them upon all occalions.

Their language is vpry inarticulate and defet^iv
one word fignifies feveial thin /s, the defirlitive meanij
being determined by the m.mner of pronouncing; ai
the pronounciation is fo harfh and Confufed, that th
feem to Hammer in all they fpeak. Hence, thou

! ^%

■ .: I

Round the World.

>75

they are eafily taught to underftand other languages,
they can feldomi be brought to fpeak them with any de-
gree of intelligibility. - ■ ' • '

We fliall liere fubjoin a fmall Hottentot vocabulary,
for the fatisfa6lion .of the curious; khauna, fignifies 4
lamb; kgou, a goofe; bunqvaa, trees; knomrn, to
hear ;' cjuaqua, a pheafant ; tkaka, a whale; horri,
beafts in general ; knabou, a fowUng piece; qua-ara-
ho, a wild ox ; ouncqua, the arms ; quienkha, to fall;
likhanee, adogj konkequa, a captain ; quas, the neck:
quan, the heart ; kgoyes, a buck or doe; tikquoa, a
god; komma, a houfc; khoaa, a cai ; kowkuri, iron;
konkcrey, a hen ; thuukou, a dark night ; tkoume,
rice ; ghoudie, a llieep ; toya, the wind ; ttkaa, a val-
ley; tkaonoklau, gmipoYrder ; kamkamma, the earth;
quaouw, thunder ; duckatere, a duck; kamma, water;
quayha, an afs ; naew, the ears ; kirri, a flick ;
iiombha, the beard ; ka-a, to drink; duriefa, an ox ;
hek-kaa, an ox of burnen ; ounvie, butter ; houteo, a
lea-dog ; bikgua, the head ; kamma, a flag \ kouquil,
a pigeon i anthuri, to-morrow ; kou, a tooth; kha-
mouna, the devil; hakqua, a horfe i koo, a fon ;
kammo, a flream j tika, grafs ; toqua, a wolf; koan-
qua, the mouth ; khou, a peacock; gona, a boy; gois,
a girl ; khoakamma, a baboon ; kerhanehou, a ftar ;
mu, an eye ; tqualTouw, a tyger.

The Hottentots have only ten numerical terms,
which they repeat twice to exprefs the multiplication of
the firfl term, and three times to exprefs the re-mul-
tiplication of the latter. Their terms are : q*kui, one;
k'kam, two, kouna, three, kakka, four, koo, five ;
nanni, fix, kounko, feven, khilfi, cighr, khalli, nine;
ghifTi, ten,

■I

Thus have we given a circumflantial and full ac-
" '. count

174

Captain Cook's first Vovags

count of the cape, its inhabitants, prodydions, and adja-
cent country; from whence the French, at MauritjiTj
are fupplied by the Dutch with falted l^eef, bifcuii,
sflour, and wine : the provifions for which the Fmich
contrafted this year yz-ere five hundred thoufand lb.
weight of fait beef, four hundred thoufand lb. of flour j
four hundred thoufand lb. of bifcuit, and one thoufand
two hundred Icagers of wine- We have only to add
to this account a few obfefvations on the bay, and gar-
rifon. The former is large, fafe, and exceeding con-
venient. It is indeed open to the N. W. winds, but
they feldom blow hard ; yet as they fometimes occa-
fion a great fea, the llijps moor N. E. and S. W, The
S. E. winds blowfreq-iently with great fury, but there
direction being right out of the bay prevents them from
being dangerous. For the convenience of landing and
(hipping goods, a wharf of wood is run out near the
town, to a proper diftance. Water is conveyed in
pipes to this wharf, and many large boats and hoys are
kept by the Company to carry llores and provifions to
and from the (hipping in the harbour. This bay is co-
vered by a fmall fort on the E. fide of the town, and
clofe to the beach ; and h alfo defended by feveral out-
works and batteries extending along the iliore, as well
on this fide the town as the other ; never thelefs they
are by their fituation expofed to the fliipping, .and in a
manner defencelefs againfl: an enemy of any force by
land. As to the garrifon, this confifts of eight hun-
dred regular troops, befides militia of the country, in
which laft it comprehended every nian able to bear
arms. By fignals they can alarm tne country in a very
fliort time, and when they are made, the militia is
to repair immediately to their place of rendezvous in
the town.

On the 14th of April in the morning, we weighed,
flood out of the bay, and aachored ai five in the even-
ing

Round the World,

ing under Penguin, or Robin Ifland. Here We lay all
nighr, and being prevented from failing by the wind,
the captain difpatchcd a boat to the ifland for a few
trifling articles, which we had omitted to take in at the
cape ; when our people drew near the fliore, they
were warned by the Dutch not to land at their peril.
At the fame time fix men, armed with mufquets, pa-
raded upon the beach. The commanding officer in the
boat did not think it prudent to rilk the lives of the
men, on account of a few cabbages, and therefore re-
turned without them to the fliip.

To this ifland the Dutch at the cape banifli fuch cri-
minals as are not thought worthy of death, for a cer-
tain number of years, according to the nature of their
crimes. They are employed as flaves in digging lime-
ftones, which though Icarce upon the continent is here
ill great abundance. A Danifli fhip touched at this
ifland, having been refufed alEftance at the cape, and
fending her boat on fliore, overpowered the guard, and
then took as many of the criminals as were neceflary
to navigate her home ; for flie had loft great part of
her crew by ficknefs. To this incident we attributed
our repulfe, concluding, that the Dutch, to prevent a
limilar refcue of their prifoners, had ordered their gar-
rifon at this place, not to fuffer any boat of foreign na-
tions to land the crew, and come afliore.

On the 25th we put to fea, and about four o'clock
in the afternoon died our mafter, Mr. Robert Moli-
neux, a youth of good parts, but unhappily for his own
k\( prefervation too much addifted to intemperance,
a hiibit we would caution all thofe who undertake
long voyages to avoid, if they have any regard to per-
fonal fafcty. We now continued our voyage without
any other remarkable incident, and on the 29th, we
crofied our firfl: meridian, having circumnavigated the

globe

I''
>;

iy6

Captain Cook's first Votage

^lobe from E. to W. afid confequently Idft a day, for
which upon corrcfting our reckoning at Batavia, we
made an allowance. On the ill of May we came to an.
chor at break oi day, before James's fort, in the illand
of St. Helena, and as we propofed *to refrefli here, Mr.
Banks employed his time in vifiting the moll remarka-
ble places, and in furveying every objedb worthy of no-
tice.

St. Helena is fituated in the Atlantic ocean, in fix
degrees W. long, and i6 S. lat. almofl in the midway
between Africa and America, being 1 200 miles diflant
from the former^ and 1800 from the latter. It wa<; fo
named by the Portuguefe, who difcoveied it on St. He-
len's-day. This ifland is 36 miles long, 18 broadband
about 6 1 in circumference. It is the fummit of an im-
menfe mountain rifitig out of the fea, and of a depth
unfathomable at a fmall diftanee round it. It may be
difcerncd at fc^a, at above 20 leagues diftanee, and
looks like a caftle in the middle of the ocean, whofe
natural walls are of that height, that there is no fcaling
them. The fmall valley called Chapel-valley, in a bay
on the eaft-fide of it, is defended by a battery of 40 oi
50 great guns, planted even with the water, and the
-waves dafliir.g perpetually on the IhorCjinakeit difFicuJt
•landing even here. .

There is alfo another little creek, wliere two or three
may land at a time, but this is defended by a battery

cf 5 or 6 guno, and rendered inacceiTiblc. No
chorage is to found any where about the illand, but at
Chapel-valley bay, and as the wind always fets from rlie
S. E. if a Ihip overllioots the ifland ever fo little, flie
cannot recover it again. The feitt of volcanoes has
been fouud to be the highell part of the countries in
which they are found. Heela is the highell hill in
Iceland;, and the Peak of TeneriiTc is known to be the
' . covering

Round the World*

177

covering of the fubtefrancous fife. Thcfe are ftill
burning : but there are other mountains which bear
evident marlcs of fire that is now exrinft : among thefe
is St. Helena, where the mequaHties of the ground,
and its external furface, are evidently the elFefts of the
finking of the earth, and that this Was caufed by fab-
terraneous fire, is e4ually manifeft from the flones, or
fome of them, efpecially thofe from the bottom of the
valleys, are burnt almoft to cinders.

This ifiand, as the Endeavour approached It on the
windward fide, appeared like a rude heap of rocks,
bounded by precipices of an amazing height, and con-
fiding of a kind of ftone, which fhews not the leafi:
fign of vegetation. Sailing along fliore, we came near
die. huge cliffs, that feemed to overhang the fliip. At
length we opened Chapel-valley, which refeiribles a
trench^ and in this valley we difcoVered the town*
The fides of it are naked as the cliffs next thefea, but
the body is fli^htly cloathed with herbage. In its pre-
fent cultivated ftate, fuch appeared the ifland to us,
and the firfl hills mufl be pafled, before the^country
difplays Its verdure, or any other marks of fertility.

In Chapel-valley, a little beyond the landing-place,
is a fort where the governor refides with the garrifon;
and the town ftands jiifl by the fea fide. The greater
part of the houfes are ill built. The church, which
was originally a mean flrufture, is in ruins, and the
market-place nearly in the fame condition. Th^ town
confifts of about forty or fifty buildings, conflru^ed
after the Englilh fafliion, whithi^r the people of the
ifland refort when any Ihipping appears, as well to af-
fift in the defence of the ifland, as to entertain the
feamen if cioy are friends : for the governor has al-
ways fentincls, on the higheft part of the illand, to the
windward, who give notice of the approach of all

Z Chipping,

178 Captain Cook's FIRST VoAYc B

{hipping, and guns are thereupon fired, that every maa
may refort to his poft. It is impoflible for an enemy
to approach by fea in the night-time, and if difcovered
the day before, preparations are fpeedily made for his
reception.

Notwithftanding the ifland appears a barren rock, on
every fide, yet on the top it is covered with a fine layer
of earth, producing grain, fruits, and herbs of various
kinds ; and the country after we afcended the rocks, is
diverfified with rifing hills and plains, plantations of
fruit trees and kitchen gardens, among which thehoufcs
of the natives are interfperfed, and in the open fields
are herds of cattle grazing, fome of which are fatted
to fupply the (hipping, and the reft furnifh the dairies
with milk, butter, and cheefe. . Hogs, goat?, turkeys,
and all manner of poultry alfo abound, and the feas arc
well ftored with fi(h. But amidft all this afiiuence, the
people have neither bread nor wine of their own gi owth,
fc tho' the foil Is proper for wheat, y^t the rats that
laarbour in the rocks, and cannot be deflroyed, eat
up all the feed, l>efore the grain is well out of the
ground ; and though their vines flourifli and produce
them grapes enough, yet the latitude is too hot for
making wine. This they have therefore from the
Canarires, the Madeiras, or the Cape, as well as their
flour and malt. Their very houfes are fome of them
brought from Europe ready framed, there being no
timber on the ifland, trees not taking deep root here,
on account of the rock that lies fo near the furface:
however, they have underwood enough for neceffary
ufes. Befides grapes, they have plantc^Ins, bananas,
figs, lemons-, and fuch other fruits as hot countries
ufualJ]^ produce.

In the year 1701, there were upon the ifland about
200 families, mofl of them Englifli, or defcended from

^ Enfjiilli

Round the World.

^79

Englifti parents. Every family has a houfe and planta-
tion on the higher part of the ifland, where they look
after their cattle, fruits, and kitchen garden. They
fcarce ever come down to the town, unlefs it be to
church, or when the (hipping arrives, when moft of
the houfes in the valley are converted into punch-
houfes or lodgings for their gucfts, to \\'hom they fell
their poultry, and other commodities : but thev are not
fuifered to puichafe any merchandife of the mips that <
touch here.

Whatever they want of foreign growth or manufac-
ture, they are obliged to buy in the company's ware-
houfc, where tv/ice every month they may furnilh
ihemfelves with brandy, European or Cape wines, Ba-.
tavia arracks, malt, beer, fagar, tea, coffee, china, and
japan-ware, Hnen, calicoes, chintz, muflins, ribbands,
woollen cloth and ftuffs, and all manner of cloathing,
for which they are allowed fix months credit. Among
the very few native produftions of this ifland muft be
reckoned ebony, tho' the trees are now nearly extinft.
Pieces of this wood are frequently found in the valleys
of a fine black ..olour, and hardnefs almoft equal to
iron : thefe pieces, however, are fo, Ihort and crook-
ed, that no ufe can be made of them, .

There are /ew infe£ts here, but upon the tops of th&
higheft ridges a fpecies of fnail is found, which has
probably been there fmce the original creation of their
kind. It is indeed very difficult to conceive how
any thing not formed here, or brought hither by the
diligence of man, could find its way to. a place fo
fevered from the reft of the world, by fcas o£ immenfe
extent.

The Portuguefe, who difcovered this ifland in 1502,
ftored it v/ith hogs, goats, and poultry, and ufed to

touch

1^89 Captain Cook's first Voyage

touch at it for water jnd frefli provifions in their return
from India, but we do not find they ever planted a co-
lony here, or if they did, having dcferted it after.
wards, the Englifli Jl^ft-lndia Company took pollcflioa
of the ifland A. D. 1600, and held it till 1673, without
interruption, when the Dutch look it by furprize.
However, the Englifh, commanded by C^pt. Munden,
recovered it again, within the fpace or a year, and took
three Dutch Eafl: India fliips that lay in the road at xho,
fame time. The Hollanders had fortified tlie land,
ing place, and placed batteries of great guns to prt-
vent a defcent : but the Englifli being acquahited with
a fmall creek where only two men could go a-breaft,
climbed up to the top of the rocks in the night time,
and appearing next morning at the backs of the Dutch,
they threw down theii arms, and furrendered the iflancj
without ftriking a (trokc: but as we have before ob-
ferved, this creek has been fmce fortified; fo that there
is now no place where an enemy can make a defceiu
with any probability of fviccefs.

The aflfalrs of the Eafl-India Company are managed
here by a governor, deputy-governor, and ftorehoufe-
keeper, who have certain fettled failaries allowed, be-
iides a public table, well furniflied, to which all com.
manders, mailers of Ihips, and eminent paffcngers are
welcome,

The maflcrs of the plantations keep a great many
blacks, who, upon fevere treatment, hide themfelves
for two or three moijths together, keeping among the
rpcks by day, and roving at night for provifions ; but
they are generally discovered and taken.

The children and defcendants of white people have
not the Icaft red ii) their cheeks, in all other places near
the tropics ; but thg natives of St. Kclensi arc remark-

Round the WoRtD.

i8i

able for their ruddy complexions and robuft conftitmi^
Oils. Their healthfulnefs may, in general, be afcribed
to the following c^ufes. They live on the top of a
mountain always open to the fei.breczes that conftantly
blow here : they are ufually employed in the moft
healthful cxercifes of gardening and hufbandry : the
ifland is frequently refreflied with moderate cooling
iliowers, and no noxiou$ fens nor fait marihes annoy
ihera. .

As to the genius and temper of thefe people, they
feeraed to us the moft honeft, the moft inoffenfive, and
the mofl: hofpitable people we ever met with of Englilh
extraftion, , haying fcarce any tinfture of avarice and
ambition. Wc aiked fome of them, if they had no
curiofity to fee the reft of the world, and how tlicy
could confine themfelves to fo fmall a fpot of earth, fe#
parated at fuch a diftance from the reft of mankind ?
They replied, that they enjoyed the neceflaries of life in
great plenty : they were neither parched with excellive
heat, or pinched, with cold: they lived in perfect fe-
curity, in no d?nger of enemies, of robbers, wild beafts,
or rigorous feafons ; and were happy in the enjoyment
of a continued ftate of health: that as there were no
rich men among them (fcarce any planter being worth
more than looo dollars) fo there was no poor in the
jiland, no man being worth lefs than 400 dollars, and
confequently not obliged to undergo more labour thaa
I was neceffary to keep them in health.

Our thoughts were now employed on returning to
lour native fliore; and having fufticiently recruited our
(lores, on Saturday the 4th of May, we weighed, and
failed out of the road in company with the Portland
man of war, and his convoy, confifting of twelve fail of
lEaft-Indiamen. With this fleet we continued oir
[courfe foj England until Friday the loth, when per»

cciving

i82 Captain Cook's first Voyage

ceivlng they outfailed us, and confequcntly might make
their port before us, Capt^ Cook for this reafon, made
the fignal to fpeak to the Portland, upon which Capti
Elliot came on board the Endeavour ; to whom a letter
for the Admiralty was delivered, with a box, contain,
ing the common log books of the (hip, and the journals
of fome of the officers. We did not lofe fight of the
fleet till the 23d, when they parted from us ; and about
one o'clock rn the afternoon, we loft our ftrft lieutenant,
Mr. Hicks, an aftive, ikilful, judicious, and ufefuj
officer. He died of a confumption, of which lingering
diforder he difcovered fome fym])toms when he left
England ; fo that it may be truly faid, that he was
dying the whole voyage. The whole lhip*s company
attended the funeral rites, and in the evening \k
committed his body to the fea with the ufual cere,
monies. The next day the Captain appointed Mr.
Charles Clerk, a yojing man, to aft in the room of Mr,
Hicks.

We now every day drew nearer our defired hi;ven ;
but what muft be the condition of bur once good (lilp,
the Endeavour, may cafily be imagined, from a flight
recolleftion of the hardfhips flie had furmounted, and
the dangers ihe had providentially cfcaped. At t!
time our rigging and fails were fo weather-beaten, thai
every day fomethiug was giving way. However, we
held on our courfe without any material occurrence
that might endanger our fafety, till Monday the loth
of June, when, to our great joy, Nicholas Young,
the laoy who difcovered New Zealand, called out land
from the mafl-head, which proved to be theLizar-d,

The next, day, being Tuefday the i ith, we proceedi
ed up the channel. On Wednefday the 12th, with I
the pleafing hopes of feeing our relatives and friends,
ex'.iting fenilitions not to be defcribed by the pen gf

the

Round the World.

1S3

the moft able writer, we paffed Bcachy Head. At
noon, to our incxpreffible joy we were a-brcaft of
Dover ; and about three o'clock, P. M. we came to an
anchor in the Downs. When we landed at Deal, our
(hip's company indulged freely that mirth, and Icciable
jollity, common to all Bnglilh failors upon their return
from a long voyage, who as readily forget hardfliips
and dangers^ as with alacrity and bravery they en-
counter them.

We cannot clofe this book, without duly confidering
the wonderful protedlion of the Endeavour in cafes of
danger the mod imminent, particularly when encircled
in the wide ocean, with rocks of coral, her fheathing
beaten off, and her falfe keel floating by her fide, a hole
in her bottom, and the men by turns fainting at the
pumps, cannot but acknowledge the exiflence of Par-
ticular Providence. This our countrymen experienced,
and we have good authority to affert, that our company
in the Endeavour do acknowledge, that the ha«d oi fu-
perior power was particularly concerned in their pro-
teftion and deliverance. This omnifcient and omnipo-
tent power is the incumbent duty of every chriftian to
believe, confide in, and adore.

End of the Firfl VOYAGE.

CAPTAIN

IMAGE EVALUATION
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I A l» T A tN G O O K^s

SEC ON B V O Y A G E,

; Taw A Rus 'tut

SOUTH P0LE jttj^ RtMjj^fi the WORLD- kc.

Begun the 9th of April, tyyi, and concl^cd on the

31ft of Jdy, i;^75.

.*«

IN T K & J^ U e T I O N

Kiflg's C5ipe^atidifi5 tyef e liot whjolty aflfwefed
by forittef.diiboveiiesy Which Wcue f© highly bla-
zoned both at homie and abrojed, and thei^dbi^e his ma.
j^y prbjetaed- this; fcddnd voyage of; C^pt* Cooky and
th'd imy^broard' w^s df-^i^red! t<5i equip tAVo liieh' fliips as
wci*b rrtoft fiiitablc <<ixkt fervit® Ac€«Pd1n$fly two vef-
feU We*eptirchaifeel-;< tije Iai<gcft-€(F thftJ tW r.anied the
RJ-fefutibn, btirthen! 4^2 tonsy Sttd^feUft to Deptford to
be fitted pilt ; and th^ Adventur^^ 3^j6 tons, equipped
irt WbolWich.

On the 28 th of Nov. 1771, Capt. Cook was appoint-
ed to the commaftd of the Refolution ; and Tobias Fur.
neaux, who had been fecond lieutenant with Captain
"Wallis, was promoted to the command of the Adven-
ture. The Refolution had 112 hands onboard, officers
included: and the Adventure 81. In the former, James
Cook wa»rcaptai% Robert. P. Cooper, Charles Clerke,
and Richard f*ickcrfgin. Were appointed lieutenants.
Jofeph Gilbert was mafter ; James Grey, boatfwain ;
James Wallis, carpenter ; Robert Anderfon, gunner ;
and James Patten, furgeon. In the Adventure, Tobias
Furneaux was captain, Jofeph Shank, and Arthur Kemp, |
lieutenants j Peter Fannin was appointed raafler, Ed-

WiirJ

feouND tHE World.

185

\ly aflfweired
y highly bk-
ifo-i^e his ma.
i». C^aky and
luc^i' (hips as
rtjfly- two vet
jfo nAiiied tk

yas^ equipped

: was appoint.

d Tobias Fur.
with Captain

f the Aciven-

oard, officers

ormer, James

arles Gierke,

J lieutenants.

boatfwain ;

fon, g^^^^"^ *'
nture, Tobias'

Arthur Kemp,

d mafter, E''-
\s'ard

^bdjohns, boatfwain, William Oflferd, carpenter, An-
dre v/Gloag, gunner, Thomas Andrews, iurgeon.

the two iiiips >^ere got in reiadliiefs with the utmofl:
expedition, and both the ftavy and vi£iiualling boards
paid an uncommon attention to their equipment. Indeed
Capt. Cook failed with greater advantages in this ex-
pedition, than any of his predeceffors who had gone
out before on difcoveries. He had the frame of a vef-
fel of 2 1 tons, one for each (hip, to ferve occafionally^
or upon any emergency, to ferve as tenders : he had on
board fiftiing nets, lines and hooks of fevery kind ; he
was fupplied with innumerable articles of fmall value,
adapted to the commercd of the trophkal iflands. The
two fliips were victualled and provided with all manner
ofnecellaries for a three years voyage. .. , ,

•

A propofed voyage attended with fuch extraordinary
preparations, patronized by parliament, as well as rOy-
al bounty, and the execution of which being fuperin-
tended by the. firft officers of the admiralty, the navy^
and by Capt. Cook himfelf, we do not heutate to pro-
nounce one of the mofl important that ever was per-*
1 formed in any age, or by any country ; and we may
aifo with truth aflert, that the able riavigatOr inadd
choice of by his majefty, w'as eqUal to the taflc in which
he was enibarked. Every thinking perfon cannot btifc
admire his Ikili, his fortitude, his care of his men, hid
jvigildnce in attending to the miiiutcii intiniations of for^j
[mef liavigatorSi his perfeverance amidd the daitgers
land hardljiips of rigorous feafons, his prowefs in lead-
ling his company Jurt fo far as they were capable of
proceeding ; in {hort, his conduft throughout, which,
diilc he kept every man fingly in ftrift obedience to his
duty, he conciliated the afie^ions of all> and fecured
Jheir eftcem,

A a The

M Captain Cook's second Voyage

The hiftory of his fccond .voyage, which we are
now about to fubmit to the judgment of our numerous
fubfcribers, will, we are perfuaded, confirm the truth
of this opinion.

mmn

BOOK II.

CHAP. I.

The Refoluticn and Adventure take their departure
from Dcptford— Touch at the iflai^ of St. Jago—
JPurfuc iheir voyage to the C^||gpf Good Hope-
Departure . from the Cape — Cti^filiue their voyage
jn fearch of a Southern Continent — Sequel of this
fearch — Separation of the (hips, and the arrival of |
the Refolution in Dufky Bay..

THE Refolution^^d Adventure dropped down tBc,
river as far as. Woolwich, oa the 9th of April,
9.t which place (he was detained by contrary winds j but ,
on the 22d £iiled fronk thence to Long Reach, where
ihc was joined by her companion the Adventure, and
both (hips look ia their marines,, guns, and ammunltiou.
May tbe lotli we failed for Plymouth, but before we
'^ot out of the river the Rcfolution was found fa be very
crank, on which account we put into Sftieernefs. Whilel
Tome alterations were making in her upper works, Lord j
Sandwich and Sir Hugh Pallifer paid us a vifit, in ordetl
to fee they were executed in a proper mannpr. The|
ilc-folution being again ready for fea, we departe
from Sheernefs. On the 2d of July \re met Lor

Sindwici

RoUKD THE WORI^P.

1S7

Sandwich, in the Augufta Yacht, whom wc diluted with
feventeen guns, and his Lordlhip, accompanied with
Sir Hugh Paliifer, honoured us with their prefence on
board, which was the laft inftance of that , very great
attention they had paid to a variety of particulars that
might tend to promote the fucceft pf our under-
taking.

About this time Capt. Cook received from the board
of Admiralty his inftruftions, dated the 25t.h of June,
the tenor and fubftauce of which were^, that the Adven,
ture was to be under his command :,that. the tvtp ihipa
were to proceed to the ifland of Madeira,^ from thence
to the Cape of Good Hope : that having at this, place
refrelhed the fhips. companies, and fupplied. them with
provilions and other neceflaries, they wer^ to, make the
beft of their way to the fouthward, in iearch of Cape
Circumcifion, which, by M. Bpuvetv. is, (aid; to be in
lat. 54 deg. S. and i n abQUt' 1,1 deg. 2<x min. £. long,
from the Royal Obfervatory in the Park at Greenwich,
tha( if they fell in with this Cape» Capt. Cook was to
endeavour, by all means in his power), ip diCcoyer whe^
ther the fame was part of the fuppofed Qontinent wbiph
had fp much employed the national attention, of. dif*
ferent European powers^ or only the promontory of an
ifland: that, in either cafe, the gentlemen on board
the two (hips were diligently to explore the fame, to
the utmoft extent poiTiljle '^ and to^make fuch obferva"*
tions of various kinds, as might correfpond with th^
grand objedl in view, and be in any refpedt ufeful ta
either navigation or commerce i not omitting at -the
fame time proper remarks on the genius aad tempet q£:.
the inhabitants, whofe friendihip and alliance theyAvere
direfled to conciliate, by all probable mptives, and
prudential means in their power : that they were to
proceed on new difcovcries to the eaftward or wcft-^.
ward, as the Captains might judge moft eligible, en-
deavouring

■IJ?

i€8

Captain Cook's second Voyage

deavounng.<5>p!y to rijn into ^s high a latitude, and as
uear the ^itih Pole as poflible j that whatever might
be the refult of their invefti^tions with refpe6ji to Cape
CircutncifiOn^ they were to continue thtir furveys to
the fouthward, and then to the caftward, either iii
fearch of the faid continent, fliould it noc have been
afcertained, or to make difcoveries of fuch iflands a?
might be featcd in the hitl^erto unexplored and un-
known parts of the foutheri latitudes : that, having
circumnavigated the globe, they were to return to Spit-
head by the way of the Cape of pood Hope: and that
to anfwer the intentions of government in this voyage
as fully as poifible, when the feafon of the year ren-
dered it linfafe to continue in high latitudes, they were
to repair to feme known port to the northward; an4
after having irefitted, &cc. they were to return again, at
the proper Teafon, to the fouthward, in profecution of
new difcoveries there.

It may i|pt be amifs her? to obferye, that thefe or-
ders were not intended in any refpecJ^ to cramp Capt."
Cook, who was allowed, in cafe the Refolution Ihould
be loft, to continue his voyage in the Adventure : he
had to this end afliftants out of number: his (lay was
not even hinted at : he was not obliged to return at
any limited time; in (hort he had ample power, full
authority, and, in all unforefeen cafes, he was to'pro-
ceed according to his ovyn difcxetion, and ac5l entirely
ashepleafed. " , - .. .. v. .

A copy of the above inftruAions were tranfmitted tq
Capt. Furneaux, inclofcd with Capt. Cook's orders, in
which he appointed, fhould the two (hips be feparated,
the ifland of Madeira for the fir ft place of rendezvous,
fort Praya for the fecond, the Cape of Good Hope foe
the third; and New Zealand for the fourth.

.. "■."'• :^- '^ While

R6UND THE WORLU.

189

le, and as
ver tnight
6t to Cape
furveys to
, either iii
have been
1 iHands as
^ and un-
lat," having
arri to Spit-
Li*, and that
this voyage
e year ren-
J, they were
iward i aii«i
vrn again, at
ofecution of

ranfmitted tp

's ordets, iii

)e feparated,

rendezvous,

)od Hope fot

While wp rernainovi at Plyinoiith, our aftronomers,
{^r. Wales, an^ Mr. Bayley, made obfervations on
Drake's Ifland \ vvhen the lat. was found to be 50 deg.
21 mill. 30 fee. N. ancj the long 4 deg. 20 min. W. of
Greenwich; ;yhereby the true time* for putting the
time pieces and watches in motion was afcertained.
This was done on the 13th of July, and they were fet
a-goir]g, iii the prefence of the tv^ro aftro -^onlers, Capt.
Furneaux, Gape. Cook, and the two firftueu tenants oi
the lliips. They had each of them keys of the boxes;
which contained the watches, and were always to be
prefent at the winding them up, and comparing the
one with the other, unlefs prevented by indifpo-
fition. .

On the I2th of July, the Rcfolution broke from her
poorings in the found, and was adrift together with
The tranfport buoy to which (he was fattened. A.II hands
were on deck inftantly, the cables were cleared, and
the fails fpread. We pafled the Adventure, and came
lb an anchor, after having efcaped the very apparent
danger of being dafhed againft the rocks which are un-
der the fort. This favourable event was looked upon
by our feamen as an omen to the good fuccefs of the
voyage. . v

On the i3vh, the two (hips failed from Plymouth
jSound, in company, and paflTed the Eddillone, which
lis a lofty, well contrived tower, of the utmoft advan-
Itage to navigation and commerce. As we ftood oflE"
|(hore, the wind increafed, and the billows rolled higher
[and higher. On the 20th, we fell in with Cape Oitegal
pn the coaft of Golicia. The fea now grew perfectly
ealm, and the profpedl which furrounded us v\as very
ielightful. When in light of Cape Finiilerrc, bearing
S. W. f«ven or eight leagues, we were met by a
I'mali French Tartan from Marf<;illes, freighted with

flour

■ < S.I

19© Captain Cook's second VoyaSe

(lour from Ferrol and Corunna. We obtained from
them a fmall fupply of frcfli water, which we much
wanted, having been obliged to fubfift on bread and
four wine.

On the azd, in the afternoon, we pafTed two Spanilh
men ot war, one of which fired a (hot at the Adven-
ture to bring her to ( but on hailing her, and being
told.we were king's (hij^s, made a proper apology, and
very politely took leave, wilhing us a good voyage.

On the apth, about nine at night, we anchored in
Funchiale road, in the idand of Madeira. After hav-
ing faluted the garrifon with eleven guns, and they
had returned the compliment, we went on Qiore, ac-
companied by Mr. Sills, a gentleman from the Vice-
confui, to the houfe of Mr. Lou^hnans, a confiderable
Englifh merchant, who afllfted us with every accom-
modatioa the ifland and houfe afforded, during our
ftay. Here the officers and private men furnilhed
thernfelves with fuch ftocl^s of wine as they could con.
veniently purchafe.

On the I ft of Auguft, having fto\yed on board a fup.
ply of water, wine, and other neceflaries, we fet fail,
Joft fight of Madeira, and ftood to the. fouthward,
with a gentle gale at N. E. On the 4th> we faw the,
pleaCantlQandofPalma, bearing S. S. W! diftant about
three or four leagues. And on Wednefday the 5th,
we palled the iile ot Ferro, at the diilance of fourteeo]
leagues. *'

Having departed from Madeira on the 1 ft of Auguft,
on the 9th we crofled the Tropic of Cancer, and at
nine in the morni; g came in light of Bonavifta, beat*
ing S. W. by W. about ten leagues. ,

/ On

Round the World.

1^1

On the lOth we paiTed the ifland of Mayo, on our
ftarboard fide, and at two P. M. came to an anchor,
1 8 fathom water, in Port Praya, in the ifle of St.
]ago, one of the Cape dc Verda. An ofBcer was fent
on Ihorc for cave to procure what refrclhments we
wanted, which was readily granted; and on his return
wc faluted the fort with eleven guns. Here both (hips
were fupplied with plenty of good water. We alfo re-
cruited our live (lock, fuchashogs, goats and poultry,
fome of which continued alive during the remainder of
the voyage.

On the 14th, both (hips having got on board a fup-
ply of refre(hments an(j provifions, we weighed anchor,
put to fea, and continued our voyage to the Cape of
Good Hope. On the i6th, in the evening, a luminous
fiery meteor made its appearance ; it %*'as of a blui(h
colour, an oblong (hape, and had a quick defccnding
motion. After a momentasy duration, it difappcared
in the horizon. Its courfe was N. N. W.

^ On the 19th, one of the carpenter's mates fell over-
board, and was drowned. He was fitting on one of the
fcuttles, from whence it was fuppofed he fell. All our
endeavours to fave him were in vain, for he was not
feen till the inftant be funk under the (hip's (Icrn. We
felt his lofs very fenfibly, he being a fober man, as well
as a good workman ; and he was much regretted cvea
by his (hipmates.

On the aoth, the rain defcended not in drops, but
tn ftreams, and, at the fame time, the wind was fqually
and variable, fo that the people were obliged to keep^
deck, and of cour(e had all wet jackets, an inconve-
nience very common, and oft(tn experienced by fea-
men. However, this difagreeable circumftance was
attended with good, as it gave us aiL opportunity of

Spreading

19* /Ca PTAIN CaaK's SECOND Vo/tYGfc

fprcading out awnings, and filling feven empty pvm-
cheons with frefli water.

Onthea7th,one of Capt. Furneaux*s petty Ofcrs
died on board the Adventure; but on board the Refo-
lution, we had not one man fick, although a deal of
rain fell^ which, in fuch hot climates; is a great pro-
moter of ficknefs. Capt. Cook, took every neceffary
precaution for the prefervation of our health, by airing
and drying the (hip with fires made between decks,
and by making the crew air their bedding, and walh
their cloaths, at every opportunity. Two men were
■punifhed on board the Adventure; one a private ma-
rine for quarrelling with the quarter-mafteri the other
a common failor for theft. Each of them receiving one
dozen. This we mention to fliew what ftrift difcipline
it was neceflary to preferve on board, in ord^r to efta-
blifha regular and peaceable behaviour in fuch hazard-
ous voyages, when men, unaccuftomcd to controul,
are apt to prove mutinous.

On Toefday, September the 8d], we eroded the line
in longitude 8 deg. W. Some of the crew, who had
never paffed the line before, v/ere obliged to undergo
the ufual ceremoney of ducking, but fomebought them-
ielves off, by paying the required forfeit of brandy.
Thofe who fubmitted to an immerfion, found it very
falutary, as it cannot well be done too often in warm
ueather, and a frequent change of linen and cloaths is
exceeding refrefhing. On the 14th, a flying fllh fell
on our dv*ckj we caught feveral dolphins ; faw fomc
cquatic birds; and, at various intervals, obferved the
fea covered with numberlefs animals. C n Sunday the
27ih, a fail was difcovered to the W. (landing after us;
Ihe appeared to be a Show, and fliewed either.Portu-
guefe cojci^rs, or St. George's enfign. We did not
.'- chule

■Wl

Round th£ World.

^9i

chufo to wait till (he Approached tteiirer, or to fpeak td

her.

Oil Mandity ttie l2tt]^ tlie weather bdag calni. We
araufed ourfclvcs with fiiooting feaCfowL We were;
toy/f accompanied by flieerwaters, pintadoed^ 8tci and
l}\r^fmall grey petercl. This lad is lefs than a pigeon,
jias a grey backy whitiili belly, attd a black ilrokc aero^
frdni the tip of the wing to that of the other, jheffc
arefoiithern birds^ and^ we believe, .never fecn wkhia
the tropics, or north of the line. The^, vifited Us m
great flights J and about the fame time we faw feveraJ
animals of the niolufca kind, within odr resich, together
with a violet coloured (Hell, of a.F6markablc thid ttx*
ture, and therefore feems calculated to keep the opcnl
fea J and not to coins near rocky places; it being eafi-
\]f broken. Saturday the i/th, we difco^ered at (sL\\ to
[the N. W. which hoiftcd Duech colours.^ She kept
us (^oMpany two diys, but on the third we dut-faUe4
her. Front tile idth to this day, wc had. the wind htf
tweert the N. and E. a geiitlc gale. On Wednefday the
2 1 ft, our latitude was 35 deg. 20 min. S. and oUr loil*
gitudeS deg. 4 mirj. 39 fee. K. From this tinieto the
123d the wind corttmucd eafterly; wheri it Veered td. the
IN. and N. W. After forae hoUra caliai, we faw . a feal^
|or as fonie tliought; a fea lion. The wind now fiiccd ac
I, W. \frhich?c^arried us to our intended port.. As we
ircvir near to the land, the fea fo\vl, which had skcon^
)aaic3 us' hithert^J, began to leave \k : dx Icaft they dii
lot appear in fueh numbers ; nor did we fee ganuictsi
Ur the black bird, coimmorily called the cape .heii,^tiil
i^e Were neatly within fight ot the cape. On Thurfday
(lie 29th, at two o clock P. M. We made the Isln^ of
[he Cape of Good Hop^s ; a particular defcription i£
yhich is giv^tf in his firrf voyage, The Table Mou»-
iin,*over the Giape Town, bore £. S. E. diftant t\^clvc
prfoarteen leagues : had ilHoc been obfbuFed by clouds.

Numb. 9. . B b it

W/.

1^4 Captain Cook's second Voyaos

it migbt, from its height, have been feen at a much
greater diilani:e.

Friday the 30th, we ftood into Table Bay, with the
Adventure in company, and anchored in five fathom
water. We were now vifitcd by the mafter-at-
tendant of the fort, fome other officers belonging
to the company, and Mr. Brandt. This laft gentleman
brought off to us many articles that were very accept.
able; and the mafter attendant, as is cuflomary, took
an account of the two fliips, enquiring particularly
if the fmall-pox was on board, a diforder dreaded
above all others by the inhabitants of the Cape ; for
which reafoQ a furgeon always attends on thefe
vifits.

This day Capt. Cook fent an officer to wait upon
Baron Plettenberg,, the governor, to inform him of our
arrival, to which he returned a polite anfwcr, and on
the return of our officer, we fainted the fort with
eleven guns, which compliment was acknowledged by
the fame number.

Having vifitcd the governor and fome of the prlndj
pal inhabitants, we took up our abode at Mr. Brandts, 1
the ufual refidence of moil officers belonging to Eng*
lifli ftiips. With refpeft to accommodation, this gen-
tleman fpares neither pains nor expence, in order to
favour him with their company. We concerted mea.|
fures with Mr. Brandt for fupplying us with provifions,
&c. all which he procured without delay, while ouri
men on board were employed in overhauling the rig-
ging, and the carpenters in caulking the fliips fides,!
&c. At the fame time Mr, Wales and Mr. Baylejl
made obfervations for regulating the watches,^ and tol
render his houfe as agreeable as poffibl? to thofe whol
favour him with their company. We concerted maj

furesl

Round thb World*

195

furcs with Mr. Brandt for fupplying us with provifions^
&c. ail which he procured without delay, while our
men on board were employed in overl?auling the rig«
ging, and the carpenters in caulking the fhips fides, &c.
At the fame time Mr. Wales and Mr. Bayley made ob-
fervatioas. for regulating the watches, and other pur-
pofcs. The refult of thefe was that Mr. Kendal's,
watch had anfwcred beyond our expectations, by de-
termining the longitude of this place to within one mi-
nute of time to what it was obtervcd in 176 1, by MeC
lHaipti and Dickfon..

During our ftay here, Mn Fbrfter, who employed
his time wholly in the purfuit of: nataraj hiftor/ and
botany, met with one Mr. Sparman, a Swcdifli [jentle^
man, who, had. ftudied under Linnaeus., Mr. Forftcr
importuned, ftrongly Capt. Cook to take' him aboard j.
and Mr. Sp^rman^ being willing to .embark, the captain
confented j a?id. he was engaged under Mr. Forft^r,
who bore his. expences^ on^ bp^rd, and allQwed him a^
yearly ftipcnd besides,.

On the 1 8th, we had, got eycry tbing on board; but-
it was the 22d before we could put to feia. , In thi?
interval the crews of both (hips were ferved every day
with frefh beef, or mtttton, hew. baked bread, . and:-
what quantity of greens theythought fu^Scient; .and.
the two fhips in every refpe^t, were put in f^s good con-
dition as when they left England. At this, time fome
removes took place in the Adventure. The, firft lieu-
tenant, Mr. Shanks, dcfired leave to refignv in;^ or^er .
to. i:ctum to England for the recovery of his health,
which was granted. Mr. Kemp was appointed firit
lieutenant, and Mr. Burney, one of our midfhipmen^
was nj*k4e fecond lieutenant, in the room of Mr.,
toip.. ' . .

. On

UT"

11. -'

iq5 Captain Cook's second VoiTAGE

On the a 24 ye repaired on board, have fir ft taken
feave of the govemdr, and other officers, who in i
pibft obHging njanncr h^d afforded ijs all the neceffary
affifiancc wiS required. ' At three o'clock, P. M. we
weighed, and fainted the fort with fifteen guns, which
complimcrit'was'inftantly tcturned. We now ftood
all nighit to the weftward, to get clear of the land, du.
ring which time, we direfted pur courfe, as brdcrid, to
cape i^ircumcifioQ. We Had a moderate ^alc from the
N. W. point until the a4th, when the wind 0iifted to
eaftward. ' " '' : '• ' ''' ' "' :' " '' ' ■■"•• •'

This day by obfervation, at noon, wc fpund our-
fclvesto bfc in 35 deg. a 5 min. §• lat. and 29 min."W.
of the Cape of Good Hope^ ' As we were now direft:
kig dur courfe towards the antarftic circle, and ex-
jpeftcd to cricounter foon with cold weather, the capi
tain oi-deircd a waftc of frd^lh water to be a.s much as
poffible' prevented ; at the fame time he fuppUcd tach
inan' with a friarnoaght jacket^ and trowfers,' allowed
"|)y the Admiralty, and alfo flops to fuch ' who wanted
them. Qn thd 25fth, a heavy ftorni came from the N.
N. W. With a few iijtervs^ls pf moderate weather, for
nearly a Week. ^ i : iv .

Gn Sunday, December the ^th, we were1n)at. 4^
deg.' 4 1 min. S/and in 1$ de^. 24 min. £. loiig. . The
itorm ^ootinu^d, and the roaring of the waves, togC'
ther with hail; rain, and ?i'^ great agitation of the vefr
fel, were citcumftantes that rendered opr fituation dif-
agree^bfe."'A b6yin the fore part of the (hi jp,' hearing
« noif<ibf water running* among the cheffs, 'turned our,
and found^' l^iiAfelF half way up' the Ipg m water}
upon whi<ih 'all hands worked at the pumps, but the
Water Sncreafed upon us; This" was at laft difcovcred
to come thfough'a fcuttlc in the boatfwain^s ftorcrroom.
This gale, attended with hail and rain, continued till
• ■'•■ ;■ . • --^ . . ; .- ; •, • • th^

•' f »

^ Round the World.

rhe 8th, with fuch fury, that we could carry no fails ;
and being driven by this meaos far to the eaftward of
our intended coiirfe, upt the le^ft hope remained of our
reaching cape Circuracifioii. Our diltrefs was aug?
mentcd by the lofs of a great part of our live ftock we
had brought from the Gape. Evci'y mai^ felt the d-
fe£t3 of the fudden tranfttion from warm to extreme cold
weather ; for which reafon an addition was made to
jhe men's allowance of brandy in both ihip^.

On the morning of the 7tl), the fun gave us a fiaN
tering profpe£^ of ferepe TB^eather ; but our ejfpeftatj*
6ns foon yariifl^edj the barometer was unufnally low j
and by one o'clock P. M. the wind, which was at N.
W. blew with fuch violence as obliged us to ftrike our
top.gallant-mafts. On the 8th, the gale was fome-*
what abated ; but the fea ran too high for us to carry

Jiiore ;han the fore-top^maft ftay-fail.

1 ..■...-..■ - ■ ^ ■

On the 9tli. at three A. M. we wore (hip to tho
foiithward, fliowers of fnowfell, with fqually weather.
At eight made figrial for the Adventure to make fail.
Onthetothniade another fignal for her to lead, a^id
jaw an Iceland to the weftward of us, in 50 deg. 40
tnin. S. Ut. and 9, deg. £. long, of the Cape of Goo^
Hope. The weather being hazy, Capt. Cook by fig.
bal called the A<iventure uqder our ftern ; a fortunate
circumllanGe this ; for the fog increafed fo much, that
we could not diicern an ifland of ice, for which we
were ftcdring, till we were lefs than a mile from it.
I The fea broke very liiigh agaiqll this ifland of ice^
which Cap^ Turneaux took for land, and therefore
hauled pit from it, till he was called back by fignal*
We catinot determine with precifion on the height ov
circumference of this ice ifland ; but in our opinion,
mch large bodies muft drift very flowly, for, as th?
j^reaieft part of them are under water, they can be lit"

;]

/
/ 1

!>■•

I
I

198 Captain Cook*s second Voyage

tie afFefted either by the winds or waves. It being ne.
Ceffary to proceed with -great circumfpeJHiion, we reefed
our top -fails, and upon founding, found no ground
with 150 fathoms*

On the I ith, in 51 deg. 50 min. S. lat. and 21 dtg^
3 min. E. long, faw fome white birds, and paffed ano.
thcr large idand of rice. The birds were about the
Hze of pigeons, with blackilh hills and 'feet. Capt.
CooJr. thought them of the petrel kind, and natives of
thefe frozen feas. The difmal fcene in view, to which
we were unaccuftomed, was varied as well by thefe
birds, as feveral whales, which made their appearance
among the ice, and afforded us fome idea of a fouthen\
Greenland. But though the appearance of the ice,,
with the waves breaking over it, might iiffard a few
moments pleafure to the eye, yet could not fail filling
OS with horror, when we reflefted on our danger; for
the ftiip would be dallied to pieces in a moment, were
fhe to get againft the weather fide of one of thefe illands,
when the fca runs high.

On the 14th, a boat was hoifled out for two gentle-
ftien to make fome obfervations and experiments.
While they were thus engaged, the fog incrcafed fo
much, that they entirely loft fight of both of the ihips,
Their fituation was truly terrific and alarming, as they
were only in a fraall four-oared boat, in an immenfe
ocean, furrounded with ice, utterly deftitute of pro.
vifions, and far from any habitable ftiore. They made
various efforts to be heard, and rowed about for fome
time, without efFeftj they could not fee the length of
their boat, nor hear any found. They had neither
maft nor fail, only two oars. They determined to lie
ftill, as the weather was calm, and hoped that the fliip?
would not fwim out of fight. A bell founded at a dif-
tancc, which was heavenly mufic to' their ears. They
' were

RouKD THE World*

199

were at lafl: taken up by the Adventure, and thus riar*
rowly cfcaped thofe extreme dangers.

We flood to the South on the 17th, when the wea-
ther was clear and ferene, and faw feveral forts of birds,
which we were Unacquainted with. The Ikirts of the
ice fecmcd to be more broke than ufual, and we failed
among it moil part of the day ; but were obliged to
rtand to the northward, in order to avoid it.

On the 1 8th we got clear of the ice, but was car-
ried among the ice iflands, which it was difficult to keep
clear of. In the Greenland feas, fuch ice is found all
the furamer long, and it cannot be colder there in fum-
mer time than it is here. Upon the fuppofition that
tkls ice which we have been fpeaking of is generally
formed in bays and rivers, we imagined that land was
not far- from us, and the ice alone hindered our ap-
proaching it.

At laft we determined to fail to the eaflward, and
afterwards to the fouth, and, if we met with no laud
or impediment, there to get behind the ice, that thjs
matter might be put out of doubt. We found the
weather much colder, and all the crew complained o^
it. Thofe jackets which were too fliort were lengthened
with baize, and each of them had a cap made of the
fame fluff, which kept them as warm as the climate
would admit. Scorbutic fymptoms appearing on fome
of the people, the furgeons gave them frcfh wort every
day, made from the malt we took with us for that
purpofe.

We flood once more to the fouthward oh the tweilty-
fecond inflant. On the twenty-third we hoifled out
a hoat to make fuch experiments as were thought neccf-

fary.

i<s6

Caftain Cock's St conz> VoYAGi

I :

far^. We examined feveral fpecies of birds, which
we had Ihoic as they hdver€fd round vis with feemlng
curiofity.

The «5th; beingChriftmas-day, we were very chear-
fi!l, and notwithftanding the furrounding rocks of ice
ilie faifors fpfent it ih lavage noife and drunkcnncrs,
On the 26th, we failed through Urge quantities of
brolcen ice. We v^^ere ftill furrounded withiflands
^hich in the evening Appeared very beautiful, the
cdgcar Iseing tinged by the fetti'ng fiin. We vi^ere no\^
iiriat. ^Sdeg. 31 min. S.

Oft the 29th, the comnianders came to a refoKuion;
provided they met with no imp<idimcnt, to run as faj
weft as Cape Circumcifion j fince the fea feemted to be
pretty clear of ice, And the diftance not rtiorc thaii
eighty leagues. On tWs ifland we faw a great numb«
of pcnguijis. The fight of thefe birds is- faid to be a
indication of the vicinity of land. This may hold
good where there are no ice ilUnds, but not fo whea
there are any, for there they find a refting-place. Wg
wtH not determine weth«r there are any females among
ihcm' at fo great a diftance from land, or Whether they
go on ftiore to breed. •

^ On thie 3-1 ft, we ftood for this ifland again, bat could
not take up any of the loofe ice, for the wind iii-
creafed fo conHderably, as to make it dangerous for t\\t
ihips to remain among the ice; bcfides which, we dif-
CQVered aft immenfe field of ice tathc north, extending
further than the eye could reach. We had Jio time tcy
deliljeratc^ as we were not above two or three mile?
from, it. *

On the tft- of Jan. 1773, the gale aba;ted» bftt- there
fell l» good deal oi fnow and fleet, which froze on the

rigging

ftduND THE World.

901

t'lggitig of the (hips, tlie mnd continued moderate*
the next day, and were favoured with a fight of the
mcon, whofc face we had not feen fince we left the .
Cape of Good Hope. We were now in 59 deg. la
iiiin. S. lat. and in 9 deg, 45 min. E* loiig.

On the 8th we pafTed fliofe ice iflands., which became
very familiar to usi In the evening we came to one
which had a vaft quantity of loofe ice about it ; and
as the weather was moderate^ we brought to, and fent
the boats out to take up as much as they could. Large
piles of it were packed upon the quarter deck, and
put into cafks, from whichj after it Was melted, got
water enough for thirty days; A very little fait water
adhered td the ice, and the water which it produced
was very freih and good. Excepting the melting and
taking away the ice, this is a mod expeditious method
of fupplying the (hips with water. We obferved here
feveral white wales, of an immenfe fize*

On the 17th, we croffed the ahtartic circle ; and
advanced into the fouthem frigid zone^ which to all
former navigators had remained impenetrable. Wfc
could fee feveral leagues around us, as the Weather
was tolerable clears In the afternoon We faw the
whole fea covered with ice, from S. E. to S. W. We
faw a new fpecies of the petrel, of a brown colour,
with a white belly and rump, and a large white fpot
on the wings i we faw great flights of them, but never
any of them fell into the ftiips. We called it an-
tartift petrel, as fuch numbers of them were fceii
thereabouts. t

In the afternoon we faw thirty-eight ice iflands, large
and fmall. This immenfe field was compofed of dif-
ferent kinds ; fuch as fleld-ice, as fo called by the
the Oreetlandmeo, and packed ice. Here we faw

Cc feveral

*d02 Captain Cook's SECOND VoAvcit

feyeral . whales playing about the ice, and ftlll large
flocks of petrels. Oimt latitude was no«v 6/ deg. i^
xnin. S

We did not think It prudent to perfevere in a fouth«
em dire£lion, as that kind of fummer which this part
^f the world produces was now half fpent ; and it
would have taken much time to have gone round the
ice, fuppofing it pra<5licable ; we therefore rcfolved to
go diredly in fearch of the land lately difcovered by
the French*

On the apth^ fcveral porpoifes pafl'ed up wiih
Amazing fwiftnefs ; they had a large white fpot on their
fides, which came almoft up to their backs. They
Vrent at lead three times as faft as our veffels, and wc
,1vent at the rate of feven knots and a half aci hour.
On the 3i(V, we pafled a large ice ifland, which at the
time of our failing by was tumbling in pieces. The
explofion equalled that of a cannon.

On the I'ft, of Feb. tve faw large quantities of fea
weed floating by the fliips. Capt. Furneaux acquainted
Capt. Cook^ that he had feen a numfeer of divers,
which veryTnuch refembled thofe in the Englifli feas,
and Hkewife a large bed of floating rock- wee J Thefe
were certain figns of the viciniiy of land ; but could
not tell whether it was to the E. or W. We imagined
that no land of any extent lay to the W. becaufe the
fea ran fo high from the N. E. N. N. W. and W. we
therefore fleered to the E. lay to in the night, and re-
fumed our courfe in the morning. We fleered north-
ward, and made fignal for the Adventure to follow, as
flie was rather thrown after n by her movement to the
eaflward. We could not find land in that direction,
and we again fleered fouthward. There was an ex-
ceeding thick fog on the 4th, on which we lofl fight of

the

•T.

Round the Wo kliu

tjie Adventure. We fired feveral fignals, but wcr^
notanfweredi on >vhich account we had too much tea-;
ion to think, thiit a reparation had taken place, though
we could, not well teU what had been the caufe of it,
Capt. Cook had dired^ed Capt. Futneaux, in cafe of a
feparaiion, to cruize three d^ys in that place he laft
faw the Refolution. Capt. Cook accordingly made
ftiort boards, and fired half hour guns till the afternoon
of the 7th, wheri the weathier cleared up, and the Ad-
venture was not tp be feen in the limits of that hoiizon.
We were obliged to lie to, till the loth, and notwith-
flanding we kept firing guns, and burning falfe fires.
all night, we neither few nor heird any thrng of the
Adventure, and were obliged to make f^il^ without
her, which was but a difnial profpeft, for wp were .
Kowexpofed to the danger ot the frozen climate with-
out the company of oi^r fellow^ voystgers, which | be-
fore had relieved our fpirits, when we confidercd that
we were not entirely alone in cafe we loft our own vef-
(el,, The crew unive^fally regretted the lofs of the
Adventure ; and they ftldom looked around the ocean
\yithout expreffing fome concern that we were alone Qn
^his unexplore4 expanfe.

Nothing material happened to us,. but various changes ,
of the weather and climate, till the 25th of March,
when land wa^.feen from the maft-head, which
greatly exhilerated the fpirits of our failors, We
fteered in for the land v/ith all the fail we could carry,,
and had the advantage of good weather and a frefti..
gale. The captaim raiftook the bay before us for Duf-
ky bay, the ifland that lay at the mouth of it having
deceived him. ,

We now proceeded for Dulky Bay, in Nevv Zealand,
but with much caution as we advanced nearer the
land. We paffed feveral iflands, tec. and two leagues'.

■ up.

^04 Captain Cook's second Vovaoe

lip the bay an officer was Cent out to look for anchorage^
which he found, and fignified it by lignal. Here we
Anchored in 50 fathom water* and very near the (horc.
This joyful circumftance happened on the z6th of
March, after we had been 117 days at Tea, and failed
3660 leagues, without fo much as once feeing land.
We had much reafon to be thankful to the Divine Pro,
vidence, that no untoward accident had befallen us,
^nd that our crew were in good healthf

CHAP, n.

A narrative of v/hat happened in Du(ky Bay — Inters
views with the natives — Sails to Charlotte's Sound— <
Is there joined by the Adventure — ^TranfaAions in
this place — Capt. Furneaux*s narrative— The (hips
proceed to the ifland of Otaheite, and their arrival
there — Are in a critical fituation,

THE country appeared beautiful and pleafant.
The iOands we paflkd, before our entrance into
Pufky Bay, were (haded with evergreen, and covered
with woods; the various (hades of the autumnal yellow,
intermixed with evergreens, exhibited a delightful
contra(b. As foon as we anchored we caught great
numbers of fi(h, which eagerly took the bait laid for
them. Our iirft meal upon fifh here was looked upon
0s the moil delightful we had ever made. Capt. CooK
4id not like the |>lace in which we anchoii[ed, and fent

* lieut,

RduND THB World.

ao5

Hcut. Pickerfgill in iearch of a better, which he fooa
found. The Captain liked it, and called itPtckerfgill
harbour. This we entered on the 27 th of March, by
a channel which was fcarcely twice the width of the

fliip.

In this place we determi ned to (lay fome time, and
examine it thoroughly, as no one had ever entered it
before, or landed on any of the fouthern parts of this
country. Our fituation was admirable for wood and
water. Our yards were locked in the branches of trees,
and near our ftern ran a delightful dream of frefh wa-
ter. We made preparations on (hore for making all
neceflary obfervations, and perform noceflary repairs,
Jic. &c.

We had not hitherto feen any appearance of inhabi-
tants i but on the 28th, fome of the officers went on a
(hooting party in a fmall boat, and difcovered them,
and returned to acquaint Capt. Cook therewith. Very
lihortly a canoe came filled with them, within mufket
ihot of the ihip* They flood looking at us for fome
timef and then returned; we could not prevail upon
Ithem to come any nearer, notwithftanding we (hewed
|tbem every token of peace and friendlhip. Capt. Cook
[with feveral officers and gentlemen, went in fearch of
fhem the fame day. We found the canoe hauled upon
"le (hore, where were feveral huts, with fire places and
Slhing-nets, but the people had probably retired into
Ihe woods. We made but a (hort (lay, and left in the
]anoe fome medals, looking glailes, &c. not chufing to
parch any further. Two parties went out the
jext day, but returned without nnding any thing worth
[iticing.

On the 6th of April we made a (hooting party, and
^und a capacious cove| where we (hoc feveral ducks 1

' - " ■' 'on

2o5 Captain CookS sbcond Voyaok

on whrch account we called it Duck Cove. We had,
ftn interview with one man and two women, as we re-
turned in the evening, who were natives, and, the firft
that difcovered thenrifelves ; and had not the man hal-
looed to us, we (hould have pafled without feeing them.
They man flood upon the point of a rock, with,acUib
in his hand, and the women were behind him with
fpears. As we approached, the man difcovered great
figns of fear, but flood firm ; nor would he move to
take up feme things that were thrown to him. His
fears were aH diflipated by Capt. Cook's going up to
embrace him ; the captain gave him fuch things as he
had about him. The officers and fes^men tollowed the
captain, and talked fome time to them i though they
c«mld not underfland them. In this converfatioh, the'
youngefl of the women bore the gfcatefl fhar?. /V droll
failor remarked, that the worsen did not want, tongue
irt any part of the world. We were obliged to leave
them, on the approach of night ; but before we parted^
Mrs* Taika,:ive gave us a dance.

: On the 7th we made them another vifit, and pr^fenN,
cd them with fever^l things ; but they beheld every
thvng with indifference, except hatchets and fpike nails.
We now faw all the man's family, as we fuppofed,
which confifled of two wives, the young^ woman we I
mentioned before, 3 boy about fourteen years old, and
three fmall children. Excepting one wom,in (who had,]
9- large wen upon her upper lip) they were well favour-
ed ; on account of her difagreea^ble appearance,^ (he I
Icemed to be negle(5led by the mfan. We were con-,
daded to their habitation, which confifled of twomeaDJ
htxts, fituated near the fkirts of a wood. Their canoel
lay in a fmall creek, near the huts, and was jufl largel
enough to tranfport the whole family from place toj
place. A gentleman of our party made fketchesofl
themy which occafioned their calling him Toe Toe;|

which

v/iich,
pamtinj
Cook V
own ma
he wi/h(
•rdcrcd

On tl

/ignified
neither n
reafon of
cd in dr
their hair
.ind tied 1
hunches (
received h
The man
cloak, tha
gave it to
time, and 1
furveying 1

Round the World*

ao;

every
J nails.
pofed,
lanwc
|d, and
10 hail
■avout-

',tM

e con-,
o mcaii)
Ir canoe)

1ft \m

j\aceto|

•cbeso(|

Toe-J

wbicl:

vhich, It fccms, is a word which fignifies marking or
painting. On taking leave, they prcfented Captarn
Cook with fomc trifles, and a piece of cloth of their
own manufiifture ; ^and pointed to a boat cloak which
he wifhed to have. The hint was taken, and one was
•rdered to be made for him of red baize.

On the 9th we paid the natives another vifit, and
fignified our approach by hallooing to them ; but they
neither met us on ftiore, nor anfwered us as ufual; the
reafon of which was, that their time was fully occupi-
ed in drefBng themfelves to receive us. They had
their hair combed and oiled, ftuck with white feathers,
iPd tied upon the crowns of their heads, and had
bunches of feathers ftuck in their ears. "VVe were
received by them with great courtefy in their drefs.
The man was fo well pleafed with the prefent of the
cloak, that he took his patta-patoe from his fide, and
gave it to Capt. Cook. We continued here a little
time, and took leave, fpending the reft of the day ia
furveying the bay.

On Monday the 1 2th, this family paid us a vifit in
their canoe, but proceeded with caution as they ap-
proached the fliip. We could not by any means per-
|iiiade them to come on board, but put afliore in a little
[creek near us, and fat themfelves down near enough to
jfpeak to us. Capt. Cook ordered the bagpipes to play,
land the drum to beat ; the latter only they regarded*
JThey converfed very familiarly (though not well under-
Iftood) with fuch officers and feamcu as went to them,
pd paid a much greater regard to forae than to others,

«e fuppofed that they took fuch for women. One of
^he females fliewed a remarkable fondnefs for one man
|n particular, until ftie found out his fex ; after which

le would not let him approach her. We cannot tell

whether fhe had before taken him for a female, or whe-
ther.

ioB Captain Cook's second VovAOfi

ther, in difcovcring himfelf^ he had taken foitic libch
tics with her.

In the evening, the natives of Duflcy Bay took up
their quarters very near our watering-place, which
■was a clear proof that they placed « great deal of cpn.
fidence in us. We pafled two or three days in exaaiin.
ing the bay in making neccflary experiments and obfer*
Vations. We likewifc fhot great quantities of fowl.

, On the 1 9th, the iriah and his daughter before men.
tioned ventured on board our (hip, while the reft of
the family Were fifliinff in the canoe. Before the man
would come into the mip, he ftruck the fide of it with
a green branch, and muttered fome words, which we
took for a prayer; after which he threw away the
branch ar.d came on board. They viewed every pan
of the cabin with apparent curiofity and furprifej but
we could not fix the man's attention to any one thing
for a moment. All we (heWed him feemed beyond his
comprehenfion, and the works of nature and art were
alike regarded. The ftrength and number of our decks
and other parts of the (hip, feemed to ftrike him with
furprife. The man was ftill better pleafed with hatchets j
and fpike-nails, than any thing our ihip produced;!
when he had once got poffellion of thcfe, he would not I
quit them.

Capt. Cook and three other gentlemen left the (hip as
foon as they could difengage themfelves from thevifitors,
whom they left in the gun-room, and went out in two]
boats to examine the head of the bay; at which place!
they took up their night's lodging ; the next day ihejj
continued their obfervations ; and fired at fome duckJ
Upon the report of the gun, the natives, who had notf
difcovered themfelves before, fet up a mod hideou
roar in different places. The gentlemen hallooed ii

The twi

toats, bdf
anccs of

Round the. World.

209

tiicir t«rn, and rcrrcateJ to their boats. The natives
diu not follow them, neither indeed could they, becaufe
a branch or the river fcpuratcd thirm, but ftill made a
great noife. As they Conunued flvooting and making
their obfervations, they frequently heard the natives in
the wood^. A man and a woman appeared at lall on
the banks of the river, waving, foniething in their
hanJs as a token of friendfhip. ^ The gentlemen couKi
not get near tjiem, and the native^ retreated into the
woods. Two others appeared ; but a^ the gentlemen
;idvanced, they retreated likewifc, and the woods af-
forded them thick cover. The captain a«d his party
paflVd the next night in the fame place, and after break-
taft embarked to return on board ; but faw two men
on the oppofite fliore, who hallooed to thcm^ and they
were induced to row. over to them.

Captain Cook with tvvo other gentlemen landed un-
armed, and advanced all together, but the natives re-
treated, nor would they (land flill till Capt. Cook went
up alone. It wa? with fome difficulty that he prevailed
with one of therti to lay down his fpcar j at laft he did
H, and met the captain with a grafs plant in his hand,
giving Capt. Cook one end to hold, whilft he himfclf
held the other; In this pofitiort they flood while the
natives made a fpeech, which the captain did not on-
ikrftahJ, but returned fome fort of anfwer; they then
fciUitcd each other, and the native took 'his coat from
his back, and put it on the captain. He then pncfent-
cd each of them with a hatchet and a knife, having no-
, tEing clfe with him. They invited the gentlemen to
their habitation, and wanted them to eat, but the tide
prevented their accepting of this invitation.

The two natives accompanied the gentlemen to their*
boats, bdt feemed very much agitated at the appear-
ances of the mufquets, which they looked upon as in*

D d ilrumencs

mmBm

■t

ijio * Captain Cook*3 second Voyaob

ftruments of death, oh account of the (laughter they
had obferved among the fowls. It was neceffary to
watch them, for they laid their hands on every thing
<j:fcept the mufquets.

On the 24th, Capt. Cook took five gcefe and a gan-
der, which were all that remained of thofe brought
from the Cape of Good Hope, and carried them to a
cove, which on this account he called Goofe-cove; this
was a convenient place, for they were not likely to be
difturbed by the inhabitants, there was plenty of food
for them, and they were likely here to breed and fpread
the country with their fpecies. We had now feveral
days fair weather, which gave us a fine opportunity of
making neceffary preparations for departure*

On the 27th we fo'und an arm of the fea more con.
venicnt than that by which we entered the bay. All
we now waited for was wind to carry us out of the bar-
l)0ur by the new paiFage we had drfcovered. The rub-
bifli wc had made on fliore, which chiefly confided of
pieces of wood, ^c, we fct on fire, in order to dry the
ground, which being dene, Capt. Cook fo wed the fpot
with various forts of garden feeds. We made feveral
efforts to fail, but the wind proving- contrary, we made
but little way, and were obliged to anchor on the M
of May on the north fide of Long Ifland. before we
leave Duiky bay, we think it uecefifary to give cij:
. readers feme dcfcription of it.

There are two entrances to this bay, which are by
no means dangerous ; and there are numerous anchor-
ing places, which are at once fafe and commodious.
The country is very mountainous, and the profpeft is
rude and craggy. The land bordering on the. fea coaft,
and all its lands, are covered with wood. There are
trees of various kinds, whi<;h arc common in other

. . countries,.

mmmm

Round the World.

ail

<:ountries, the timber of which is remarkably fine.
Here are likewife a great number of aromatic plants,
and the woods are fo over-run with fupple jacks, that
it is difficult to make way through them. The foil is
undoubtedly compofed of decayed vegetables, which
make a deep black mould ; it is very loofe, and fmks
at every ftep. Except flax and hemp, there is little
iierbage.

The inhabitants of Du(ky Bay are the fame with
thofe in other parts of New Zealand ; they fpeak the
fame language, and adopt the fame cuftoms. It is not
eafy to divine what could induce thefe few families to
feparate themfelves from the fociety of the reft of their
fellow-creatures. It feems probable that there are peo-
ple fcattered all over this fouthern ifland, by our meet-
ing with inhabitants in this place. They appeared to
lead a wandering life, and don't feem to be in in perfeft
amity with each other.

On the nth of May, we again made fail, but met
with more obftruftions. We obferved on a fudden a
whitifli fpot on the fea, out of which a column arofe
which looked like a glafs tube. It appeared that ano-
ther of the fame fort came down from the clouds to
j meet this, and they made a coalition and formed what
liscalleda water-fpout; feverai others were formed in
I the fame manner fooa after.

As we were not very wcH acquainted with the nature
land caufes of thefe fpouts, we were very curious in
[examining «them. Their bafe was a broad fpot, which
Jooked bright and yellowifli when the fun flione upon
lit ; this appeared when the fea was violently agitated,
md vapours rofe in a fpiral form. The columns were
Bike a cylinder, and moved forward on the furface of
ihefe^, and frcc^uently appeared croiling each other,

they
. <

1
.'I

ai2 Gapt AiN GooK*s SECOND VoAyqp

they at laft broke one after anotlier, this was owing to
the clouds not following them with equal rapidity. The
•jfca appeared more and more covered with fliort broken
\vaves as the clouds came nearer to u?;; the wind veertj
about, and did not iijc in any one point. Within 200
. yards of us, we" faw a fpot in th^ fta in violent agitati-
on; the water afcended in a fpir;'.! form' towards the
clouds; the clouds looked black and louring, and fome
bail ftones fell on board. A. cloud gradually tapered
into a long fiendcr tube direftly over the apita^ed fpot,
and feemed defcended to meet the rifing fpiral, and
foon united with it. The laft water fpout broke like
the others, no explofion was heard, but a flalh of
tightning attended this disjunction. '

On the 18th of May, nt five o-clock in the morning,
*«re opened Queen Charlotte's Sound, and faw thrtd
flaflics arifmg trom a ftrong hold of the natives. We
imagined ^hem to be fignals of the Europeans, and
probably of cur old friends in the Adventure ; when
' we fired fome guns, we v/ere anfwered, and in a flioni
time faw the Adventure at anchor. We were fainted |
by Capt;Furnc?aux with 13 guns, which we very chcar-
fully returned ; none can defcribe the joy we felt at tliis|
mod: happy meeting. " - ■• ■ ■

The following is a narrative of Capt. Furneaux's pro-
ceedings, and of the various incidents that happcne^|
during the feparation of the two (hips, to their join-l
ing again in Queen Charlottc*s Sound.

TH E Adventure,, on the 4th of February, 177%
after having loll fight of the Rcfolution, in «
very thick fog, hud no other means of again meeting
■Vvith her, but by cruizing in the place where thej
j!)arted company, or by repairing to Charlotte-Bdy, thj
jiril sppointed place of rendezvous, in cafe fuch
' •' ■ . ■ ' misfortuni

Round the World.

Ji'l

jnisfortune fliould happen. Soon after their reparation,
the people of tlie Adventure heard a "gun, the report
of which they judged to be on the larboard beam ;
iipon which they hauled up S. E. and fired a four-
pounder every half-hour but receiving no return, nor
f.ght of their companions, they Jccpt the courfe
they had fleered before the fog came on. In the
evening it begj:Ti_to blow hard. The florm was at-
tended with a prodigious fall of rain, every drop the
iizc of a common pea; and the fea broke over the'
jfliip's bpws to the height of the yard arms ^ yet, at
intervals, the weather was more clear. Tney j
Jtood to the weftward, to cruize in the latitude l
laft (ciw her in, according to agreement, in cafe of '
ration ; but the ftorra returned with renewed fury, and
the weather being again exceeding hazy, they were
'again compelled to bring to, which untoward circum-
jbnce prevented them from reaching the intended
jplace ; however, they cruized as near the fame as they
fcould for three days, when, after having kept beating
about the fea?, ip the mqft terrible weather that any
ihip could poflibly endure, and giving all hopes over
of joining their loft companion, they bore aw^ay for
winter (Quarters, 1 400 leagues dillaiit from them j and,
having to traverfe a fea entirely unknown, they took
every precaution for their fafety, and reduced the al-
lovVance of water to one quart per day for each
feaman.

On the 8th, they kept between the lat. 52 and 53
(leg. S. and reached to 95 dcg. E. long. They had
here hard gales from the W. attended withfnow, fleet,
and a long hollow fea from the S. W. And what is
inore remarkable, after our feparation from the Refo-
lution to our making land, we faw but one of the ice
iflands, though in the moft part of our long run, wc

were

'V-
■ 1

«I4. Captain Cook's second Voyagh

tvere 2 or 3 deg. S. of the lat. in which wc firft met
with them.

Onthe2ith of March, we fhipped miiny waves,
one of which ftove the large cutter, and with difficulty
we prevented the fraall one from being \va(hed over-
board. After this heavy gale, we had more temperate
weather, accompanied with calms. At length we made
the coaft of New Zealand, in 40 ^eg. 30 min, S. lat.
having 24 deg. of long, from Adventure Bay, in 3 paf.
fage of 15 days;

On the 5th of April, we worked up to windward
under Point Jackfon. We fired fever a! guns while
itanding off and on, but faw not any inhabitants. At
half paft two anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water.
At eight, weighed and made fail. On the 6th, at eight
o'clock, had the Sound open, and worked up under the
weftern fliore, and anchored in Ship Cove,in ten fathoms
water, and moored the bed bower to the N. N. E. In
the night heard the howling of dogs, and people liaL.
looing on the eafl fliore,

Capt. Furneaux ordered the large cutter to be man.
ned, and fent her with a proper guard, to examine,
whether there were any figns of the Refolution having
arrived at that harbour. The boat ret-urned, wiiliout
the teaft difcovery. Upon this, we inftantly prepared
to fend the tents afhore, for the accommodation of thofe
who were lick of the fcurvyj while fuch who enjoyed
health were very alert in catching M\, which proved of
great fervice in recovering our Tick, to wdiom frelh
provilions were both food and phyfic.

On the 9th, three canoes came along fide the Adven-
ture, having 15 Indians of both fexes, armed with bat-
axes, and with other offenfive weapons made of

hard

tic

Round the Worl&.

flr^

jjarJ wood, in the form ot our officers fponioons, and
about four feet in length i but they had neither bows
nor arrows. A kind of mat was wrapt round their
flioulders, and tied about their waifta with a girdle
made of grafs. Both men and women exhibited a moft
favagc appearance, and were very unwilling to come
on board. The Captain made them prefcnts, and by
figns invited them to trade. They accepted the pre-
lents, and fome of them affumcd courage enough to
truft themfelves oh deck.

One of our genOenvsn, feeing fomething wrapt up;
had the curiofity to examine what it was, when, to his
great furprife, he found it to be the head of a man,
which, by its bleeding, feemed to be trelh cut off. As
Capt. Cook had expreffed his abhorrence of fuch unna-
tural afts, the Indians were very apprehenfive of its
being forced from them, and the man, to whom it be-
longed, trembled for fear of being punifhed. They
therefore, with furprifing dexterity, in order to con-
ceal the head, (hifted it fiom one to another, till it
was conveyed out of fight; endeavouring at the fame
time, to convince us by figns, that no fuch thing was
in their polTeffion.

Soon after they left the (hip, and went on fhore, nor.
without fome vifible figns of difpleafure. In this vific
i they often mentioned the name of Tupia, and uporr
Ibeing informed that he died at Batavia, fome of then*
with much corcern enquired whether we killed him, or
he died a natural death. By theCe queftions, we con-
duded thefe Indians where fome of the fame tribe who
had vifited the Endeavour. They returned in the af-
ternoon with fiih, and fern roots, which they bartered
for naiis, to them the moft valuable articles ; but the
man and woman who had the head, were not among
[them, having a catalogue of words in their language,

UTt

ii6 Captain Cook's second Voyage

"^called feveral things by name, a: which tliey feeme^
ftiiich furprifedj and offered a quantity of fifli for the
catalogue.

On the loth, about eight in the morning, five c'ou-
ble canoes came along-fide the Adventure, with about
fifty Indians,- at the head of whom was their chid\
We purchafed of them, for nails and bottles, their im-
plements of S^ar,- ft one hatchets, cloth, ^c, upon
which they fet a high price." Several of their head
men came on board, nor would they quit the fhip by fair
means ; but upon prefenting a mufquet with a bayonet
nxed, they quickly took leave of us,' fecmingly in great
good humour ; and afterwards they vifited us daily
bringing with them fi(h in abundance, v/hich they ex-
changed for nails, beads and other trifles. They be-
haved peaceably, and, having difpcfcd of their car-
goes, departed at all times fcemingly well pleafcd.

We now placed a guard on a little iflan»S whicli, at
low water, is joining to Mortuara, called the Hippah
at -which place was an old fortified town, tliiu" had
been abandoned by the natives. We took poiTefliou
cf their houfes, and by fmking a fort within fide,
made them very comfortable. Here our aflronoiner
erc<5ledhis obfervatory; at the fame time wc ftruckoiir
tents on Mortuara ; and having run further into the
cove with the fliip, we moored her for the winter, c;i,
the weft fhore, and gave her a winter coat to prefcryel
her hull ; then after fending alhore the fpars and luraJ
bcr of the decks to be caulked, we pitched our teuti|
near the river, at the watering-place.

On the 12th, the weather continuing fair, andtk
Indians friendly, the captain and oiticers were preparing
to go afliorc, when about nine A. M. no lefi than tenl
canoes came padling down the found. We countedl

one!

--Hiis

Round thb World.

jst7

^23 native all armed. When along fide of the fhip,
they expreffcd a dcfire to be admitted on board ; biit
Capt. Furncaux, not liking their looks and geftures,
gave orders that a few only Ihould be admitted at a
time. Theft behaved fo diforderly, that the failors
were obliged to tUrn them out, and it now appeared
plainly that the intentions of our new vifitors, were to
make themfelVes maftersof tlie fliip : however, finding
the crew, to be upon their guard j they became more ci»
vil, but not before a great gun was difcharged over
their heads, which alorte intimidated them. Being
thus reduced to order, the people on board produced
feveral articles, fuch as beads, clafp knives, fciffai^,
cloth, paper, and other trifles, which they bartered
for battle-axes, fpeara, Weapons of various forts, fifti-
hooks, and other curiofities, the manufafturc of the
country. , ...

Three months were now elapfed fincc the Adventure
bft fight of the Refolution ; but on the 1 7th (he was
feen at Jitckfon Point. Wfc immediately fcnt out boats
to her ailiftancci it beiiig calm, to tow her into the
found. In the evening flie anchored about a milfe
without us, and next morning weighed and warped
within us.

Having thiis related the progrefs of the Adveiittir^,
we now come to record the tranfaftions of botii
fhips after their junftioiii It were little more than
a repetition of the Adventure's diflreffes to reca-
Ipitulate the efFefts of the boifterous weather that
were felt by the crcw of the RcfolUtion ; being fome»
times, furrounded with iflands of ice, out of which they
could not ejttricate thcmfelves by the iitmoft cxcrtiott
of their Ikill in feamanlhip, fometimes involved in
flieets of ileet and fnow, and in mifts fo dark^ that a
I man on the forecaftle could not be fccii from the quar-

Numlj. 10. E e ICT

;■•

its Captain Cook's second Vo^^Aci

ter deck; fDinetimes the fea roiiing mountains high,
while the funning tackle, made brittle by the feverity of
the froft, Was frequently fftaj>ping, and fometimes ren.
dered immoveable. AmidA the hardfhips of fuch a
traveff?, there is nothing more aftoniftiing, than that
the crew ftiould continue in pcrfeft health, fcarce a man
being fo ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing caa
tcdound ftiore to the ho'nour of Capt. Cooke, than his
paying jDarticular attention to the prefervation of heahh
among his coinpariyi By obferving the ftrifteft difci.
plinc from the highcfl to th€ lowed, his commands
were duly obferved, and punftnally executed. "When
the fervice was hard he tempered the feverity thereof
by frequently relieving thofe einployed in the perform,
ance, and having all haiids at command, he was never
under the neceffity of continuing the labour of any fet
of men beyond what their ftrength and their fpiriu
could bear.

ilavihg hy ttis meanS left no fpare time for gaming,
quarrelling, or rioting, he kept them in a£^ion, and
puniflied drunkennefs with the utmoft feverity ; and
thus by perfcvcring in a fteady line of conduft, he was
enabled to keep the fea till reduced to a very fcanty
portion of water ;. and when he defpaired of finding
any new land, and had fully fetisfied himfelf of the
non-exiftance of any continent in the quarter he lad |
traverfed, he directed his courfe to Charlotte's Sound,
the place appointed for both (hips to rendezvous in |
cafe of feparation, and appeared off the fame, (as has j
been already related) on Tuefday, the iSth of May,
1/73, ^^^ ^^^^ "^^ difcovered our confort the Advcn.
ture, by the fignals Ihe made to us, an event every one |
in both ihips felt with inexpreihble fatisfadlion.

The next morning after our arrival, being Wednef*
d»y the 19th, Capt, Cook went off in the boat, at|

. day-break>

:yof
ren.
:h a

that

man
; can
in his
lealth

difcl.
mauds
When
hereoi
iform.
', never
any fet

fpirk

Round ths World.

819

IWednef-
Iboat, all
W-break>|

day-break, to gather fijurvy-grafs, celery, and other
vegetables. At brcakfaft time he returned with a boat
load, enough for the crew of both fliips ; and Know^
ing their falutary efficacy in rcipoving fcorbutic com-
plaints, he ordered that they Jhould be boiled with
wheat and portable broth, every morning for breakfaft,
and with* peafe and broth for 4ioiier, and thus dreffed
they are extremely beneficial.

On the 2oth, we vifited the fortifications of the na«»
I tives where the obfervatory was fixed. It is only ac-
[celTible in one place, and rlicre by a narrow, difficult
path, being fituated oa a fteep rock. TThe huts of the
natives flood promifcuoufly, within an inclofure of pal-
jlifadoes J they confided, only of a roof, and had no
Iwalls. About noon we were vifited. by two finajl, <;a-
[noes, in which were five men. They dined with us,
d it was not a little they devoured. In the evenipg
^hey were difmiffed with prefents.

On the 24th, the Refolution, received another vific
from a family, who came with no other intent than to,
partake of our food, and to get fome of our iron Work.
We wanted to know their names, but it was a long
|mc, before we could make them underftand us. At
' we, found that the oldeft was called ToT^ahanga,
addle Qthers Kotugha-a, Koghoaa, Khoaa,^ K^ollakh,
ad Taupuaperua. This laft was a boy about 1 2 years
|f aff^ very lively and intelligent. He dined with us,
r .oracioufty, and was very fond of the cruft of a
ieraade of wilcl fowL IJe did not touch relifh Madeira,
(iae which the captain gave him, but was very fond
fome fweet Cape wine, which elevated his fpiritSj^
^dhis tongue was perpetually going..

[On the aQth, a great number of natives furrounded
with canoes, who brought good^ tp exchange, for

whjph.

Z%o Captain Cook's second Voyage

* Virhich they got good returns, owing to the cagcrncfi
vrith which our failors outbid each other, all of ihem
i)cing defirous of having fome , of the produftions of
this country. Among thefe Indians we faw many wo-
;nen whofe lips were of a blackiih hue, and their
chfiek were painted witfi a Hvely vcd. They had large
Icnees, and llender bandy legs, owing to want of exer.

^ cife, and fitting in their canoes cr.ofs legged. The la,
dies were very agreeable to our crews, who had np
opportunity of indulging an intercyurfc with other
■women -fince our departure from England; and they
fopn found opt that chaftity was not a dillinguiflijng
part of their charajSler., Their, confent was eafily pur.
chafed . a fpike nail, or an old ihirt, was a fulEcient
bribe. The New Zealanders, cucouraged by the gaia
of this difgracefpl commerce, went through both the
fhips, offering their daughters and fifters to the proniiIi|
cuous cn^bracgs of every one, for iron, tools, 5cc,

On. the 3Qth inftant, we went over to Long Ifland,
to collect fojne hay which the crews had made, and to
bring fome vegetables on board- In this trip we foundl
feveral new p ants, and fhot fome fmaU birds, vhic!]|
■we had not fecn before. In the afterroon, leave was!
given to feme ot oyr failors to go on (hore, whertj
they again purqhaf«;d the embraces of th^ womenj
Thefe fellows muft have been yery keen indeed,
they would have been difgufted with the uncleaniineftj
of their doxies, all of whom h?id a difagreeable fmell[
which might be fcented at a confiderat^le diilancej
find their c oths as well as h?iir fwarmed with vermij
%o a very great degree ; which they occafionally cracke
between their teeth. It is furpri^ing how men, wE
had received a civilized education, could gratify th
animal appetite with fiich loath fome creatures. Wliij
this party were on (hore, a young woman on board ftoj
pne of the feaqcn's jackets, and gave it a ypungimf

Earl

place,
Cjuent
we wel

W.
obiige(|
Jieard

«!■«■

RouKD THE World.

231

pf lierown tribe j upon the failor'fi taking it from th«
Indian, he received feveral blows on the face by the
voung fellow's fift. At firft the failor took this as ii
joke, but upon perceiving the aflailant to be in earneft,
he gave him a hearty Englifti drubbing, and made him
cry out for quarters. At this time Capt. Cook con-
tinued his employment of fowing, in different fppts
cleared for the purpofe, all forts of vegetables that he
thought would grow in this country, fuch as potatoes,'
beans, peas, corn, 8fc.

On Tuefday the i ft of June, we were vifitedby fe-
veral natives whom we had not feen before, and who
brought wiih them fundry new articles of commerce i
among thefe were dogs, fome of which we pu f chafed.
Of thefe people we faw a few oddly marked in their
faces, by fpiral lines deeply cut in tliem. Such kind
of marks were very regular in the face of a middle-aged
man, named Tringbo Way a, who appeared to be a
perfon of note, ^nd to have authority over his brethren.
This company feemed to underftand perfetftly wellhow
to traffic, and did not like we fhould make hard bar-
gains. Some of them entertained us with a dance on
the quarter deck, previous to which they parted with
their upper garments, and flood in a row. They fang
a fong, and its chorus all together, making during the
performance many frantic geftures. Mulic accom-
panied this fong and dance, but it wag not very
harmonious.

Early in the morning of the 7th, we fiiled from this
place, in company with the Adventure, but hiid fre-
Quent hindrances from contrary winds. On the 3 2d,
we were in lat. 32 deg. 30 min. long. 133 deg. 40 min.
W. Now the weather was fo warm, that we were
obliged to put on lighter cloaths. Capt. Cook having
(leard that the crew of the Adventure were fickly, went

99^ Captaik Cook's SECOND VoAvce

on board the agth of Julv, when he found d^ cook,
dead, and 20 men ill of tne (curvy and flux. Qnly y
men were on the (ick lift on board the Refolution,
which was certainly owing to the Captain's abfolutclv
enforcing the mating celery and fcurvy-grafs with the
food, though at firft the crew did not like it.

On the 6th of Auguft, Capt. Furneaux came 01^
board the Refolution to dinner, and report;.d, that
Ibis people were much better, that the flux had quite
left them, and that the fcurvy was at a (land. The
fcorbutic people had been well fupplied with cyder,
which in a great meafure contributed to this happy
change. On the 14th, we faw Ofnaburg iHand, and
on the 15th, at Bve in the morning, acquainted Capt.
furneaux, that it was our intention to put into Oati-
piha Pay, neax the fouth end of Otaheitp, and get
what retreflunents we could in that part of the ifland,
before we went to Matavai.

On the 1 8th, we v^ere within a leagua of the reef.
On account of the breeze failing us, vve hpifted out
our boats to tow the ftiips off, but they could not
keep us from being carried too ^sear the reef. IVJany
inhabitants came on board from different part^, who
brought fruits, &c. to exchange; tl^ey moft of them
knew Capt. Cook again, and* enquired for Mr- Banks
Hud others, but none of thenr afked for Tupia, Our
fituation became ftill more dangero^^s as the caloi con-
tinued. On fending to examine the weftern point of
the reef, in order to get round that \yay into the bay,
;ve found that there was not fufficient depth of water.
Both fliips were carried with great impetuofityto wards
the reef, and all the horrors of fliipwreck no\Y ftared
us in the fiice. The breakers were not two cables
length from us, and we could find no bottom to anchor.
The Refoluiion came at three fathoms water, and

^ruck

Round tub World.'

K23

itruck at every fall of the fea, the Adventure brought
up under our bow Without ftriking. The dreadful
furf which broke under our ftcrn, dircatencd our Ihip-
wrcck every moment. At length we found ground a
fitdc without the bafon, and got the (hip afloat by cut-
ting away the bower anchor, and the tide ceafed to aft
in the fame dircftion. We happily towed off the Rc-
^lution, and all the boats were ordered to aflfift the
Adventure. We happilv got once more fafc at fea,
after narrowly efcaping mipwreck.

We anchored in Oati-piha Bay, very near the
fhore, and were Vifited by a great number of the na-
tives, who brought roots, fruit, &c. Several of thefe
people afked for Mr. Banks^ and other people who were
at Otaheitc with Capt. Cook before. We were informed
by thefe people, that there had been a battle fought
between the two kingdoms, that Toutaha, the reg*ent
of the greater peninfula, was flaln, and that Otoo
reigned in his ftead. In this battle Tubourai Tamaide',
and feveral of our old friends fell. A peace was now
fully oftabliihed.

On the igiht the two commanders made an excur*
fion along the coaft, and were entertained by a chief
(whona they met) with fome excellent fi(h, &:c. to
whom in return they made feveral prefents. On tht
2oth, one of the natives ftole a gun firom the people on
(bore. Some of the natives purfued him of their pwil
accord, who knocked him down and brought b^ck the
mufquet. We imagine that fear operated more with
them in this bulineis than any other motive. On the
2 1 ft, a chief came tO vifit us, who brought in a pre-
fenc of fruit, which proved to be iome cocoa-nuts that:
we had drawn the water from and thrown overboard*
He had fo artfully ti^ them up, that we .did not foo(t
difcQvet the deceit. He did not betray the leaft:

emotioa

r (.1

1 ■:

ai4 Captain Cook's second Vof Aoi

Ei' ,*

emotion when we told hirti of it, and opened: two 6'r
three of them himfclf^ as if he knew nothing of the
matter ; he then pretended to be fatisfied that it was
really fo, and went on ftiore,,from whence he fent lome
bananoes and plantain?. We were informed that
Waheato v was come into the neighbourhood, and
w idled to fee Capt. Cook, who accordingly went ia
company with Gapt. Furneaux and fome gentlemen:
they were like wife attended by fome natives. About a
mile from the landing place they met the chief, ad-
vancing to meet them with a numerous train. When
the prince perceived the cortipany, he halted. He
knew Capt. Cook very well, as they had feen each other
, fe vera! times in 1765. He went at that time by the
name of Terace, and took his father's name at his death.
We found him fitting on a ftool j and as foon as the
iifual falutation was over, he feated Capt. Cook on
the fame ftool with himfelf j the reft fat on the ground.
He enquired after feveral who had been oh the former
voyage, and feemed forrj when wc told him we muft
fail the next day, offering- the captain that if he would
itay he Ihould have hogs in plenty. Capt. Cook made
biro many prefents, and ftaid with him the whole
morning. This party returned on board of fliip to
dinner, and made this chi^f another vilit in the after-
noon, made him more prefents, and he gave us two
hogs. At the different trading places fome others
were got, fo that a meal's frefti pork fervcd for the
crews of both fliips.

Early in the morning of the 24th, we put to fea, and
V€re accompanied by feveral canoes, who brough:
cargoes of fruit fot falc ; neither did they return till
they had difpofed of tlwm. The fick people on board
the Adventure got much relict from thefe fruits. We
left a lieutenant on (hore, in order to bring lome hogs,
>vhichthcY promifed to lead by him. He returned
^ ca'

Round the World.

S2^

on the 25th, and brought eight pigs with hirtl. "t^e
arrived at Matavai 'Bay in the evening, and our decks
were crowded with njltives before we could get to an-
chor, ilmofl: all of them were acquainted with Captain
Cook. Otoo their king and a great cf owd were got
together on the ftiore. Capi. Cook was going on (hore
to pay him a vifit, but was told that he was gone to
Oparee in a fright*, which fecmed very extraordinary
to the captjiin, as ail others were much pleafed to fee
him. Maritata, a chief, was on board, and advifed
tlie captain to defer his vifit till next morning.

Next morning the captain fet out for Oparee, after
having given dij-eftions to fetch tents for the reception
of the fick. Capt. Furneaux, Maritata and his wife,
and fome others went with the captain. They were
cci^dufted to Otoo as foon as they landed.j who fat oil
the ground under a fliady tree, with a great number of
people around him. Capt. Cook made him feveral
prefents, after the ufual compliments had palTed, bet-
ing very Well pcrfuaded that it Was much to his in-
tereft to eftablifli a friendftiip with this man. Otoo en-
quired for all the gentlemen who had been there be-
fore, as well as for Tupia, and promifed to fend fomc
hogs on board, but was very backward in faying hb
would tome on board hlmfelf, being, as he faid, much
vmiid of the great guns. He was certainly the moft
i:imid prince, as all his afltions denionftrated. He was
a perfonable well made man, fix feet hight, and about
thirty years of age* His father and all his fub;efts
were uncoveixd before him, that is, their heads and
Iho alders were macle bare*

On the 27th, the king Otoo came to pay us a vilit,

r.uended by a numerous train j he fcnt before him two

large fifli, a hog, fome fruits, and a large quantity of

cloth. . After much perfuafion he came on board him-

'-■r. F f Iclf

42^ Captain Cook's second VoYAoi

felf, acjcompanied by his fifters, a younger brother. Sec*
with many attendants, who all received prefents j and
Vvhen they had breakfafted, carried them home to Opa-
ree. Upon landing, an old lady, the mother of Tou-
taha, metCapt. Cook, feized him by both hands, and,
weeping bitterly, told him that her fon and his friend
Toutaha were der.d. Had not the king taken her from
Capt. Cook, he mufl have joined her lamentations.
The next day the king promifed to vifit us again, but
faid we muft firfl wait upon him.

On the iqth, the commanders took a trip to Oparee,
attended by fome officers and gentlemen, and made
the king fuch prefents as he had not before feen.
One of them was a broad fword; at the fight of which
he was very much intimidated, and defired it might b**
taken out of his fight. "With a vaft deal of argument.
he was prevailed upon to fuffer it to be put on his fide,
where it remained a very fhort time. We received an
invitation to the theatre, where they entertained us
with a dramatic piece, confiftlng of a comedy and
dance. The performers were one woman, which was
no lefs a pcrfonage than the king's fiftcr, and five men,
and their mufic confifted of only three drums. The
whole entertainment was well conducted, and lafted a-
bout two hours. When this diverfion was over, the
king defired us to depart, and loaded us with fruit and
fifti. The king fent more fruit and fifli the next
morning.

On the ifl of Sept. we determined to depart, as the
iick were nearly recovered, the necdfary repairs of the
ftiip were complcated, and plenty of water provided.
Mod of the day was employed in unmooring the fliips j
and in the afternoon the lieutenant returned, who had
been fent for the hogs promifed. With him came Pot-
tatou (the chief of the diftrift of Attahounou), with

hi}

Round the World.

227

his Wife, to pay Capt. Cook a vifit, and made him a
prefent of two hogs and fomc fifti. The lieutenant got
likewife two more hogs. As the wind was wefterly,
we were obliged to difinifs our friends fooner than they
wiflied i but they were very well fatisfted with thq re-
ception they met with.

A young man, named Peoro, eame on board fome
hours before we got under fail, and defired to go with
us, to which we confented ; and at the fame time he
afked for an axe and a fpike naij for his father, who
came with him on board. They were according given
him, and they parted with great indifference, which,
fecmed to. indicate that they had deceived us^ and no
other.confanguinity fubfifted. Prefently a canoe^ con-
duced by two men, came along-fide, and* demanded
?oruo in thp name of Otoo. We informed them that
we would- part with him if they would return the
hatchet and fpike nail, but they faid they were aftiore;
fo the young gentleman failed along with us, though, he
wept when he faw the laud at our ftern.^

On the 2d, we (leered our courfe for the ifland of^
Huaheine, and the Refolution anchored in 24 fathoms
Wiatcr cm the 3d inft. but the Adventure got afliore on,
the north fide of the channel, but (he was happily aot^
offagairi without receiving any damage. The natives
recei ';.d i.is, "WJth the utmoll cordiality, feveral of whom',
camt ' . > oard before oyr commanders went on (hore.
Soiac )v;ef nts were diltributed amongft them, which ^
wcregrucf ily returned by a plentiful fupply of hogs,
fruit, &C. Here we had a fine profpeft of being plenti- .
fully /upplicd with frcih pork and fowls, which was to.
us very pleafing.

On the 4th, two trading parties went on (hore, which,
w:ve very well conducted. Capt. Cook was informed .

that

•J -

' ii

238 Captain Cook's second Voyage

that Oree was flill alive, and waited to fee him. The
commanders, with Mr. Forfter, went to the place appoint-
ed for the interview, accompanied by one of the mi-
mes. The boat was landed before the chief's houfc,
and were defircd to remain in it till the necclhiry cerc%
mony was gone through. There flood clofe to the
fliore five young plantain trees, which are their em-
blems of peace: thefe were, with fome ceremony,
j^rought on feparately. The firft three, were each
accompanied by a young pig, whofe ears were orna-
mented with cocoa-nut Bbres ; the fonrth plantain tree
was accompanied by a dog. All thefe had particular
names and meanings, which we could not underftand.
This part o*^ the ceremony being over, we were defircd
by our guiq .'ecorate three young plantain trees

with nails, lo ag glalCs?, beads,' &c. &c. With
thefe in our hands we landed, and were conduced thro'
the multitude. We were direfted to fit down a few
paces before the chief, and the plantains were laid one
by one before him. This being done, the king came.
to Captain Cook, fell on his neck, and kiffed him. A
great effufiort of tears fell down the cheeks of this
venerable old man; and if ever tears fpoke the Ian-
guage of the heart, furely thefe did. Capt. Cook re-
garded him as a father, and therefore prefcnted him.
with the mod valuable articles he had. Soon after we
returned on board, fourteen hogs were lent us, with
fowls and fruit in abundance.

In the morning of the 5th inftant, \Ye were again vi-
fitcd by this good old man, who brought a ho^ and fome
fruit; indeed he fent the captain every day ready
dreffccJ, fruit and roots in great plenty. This morning
the lieutenant went on (bore in fearch of more hogs, and
returned in the evening with 28, and about 70 more
were purcbafed on Ihore.
'■ ■'-■■■■ • . men

Round the World.

When we went to. take leave of Orec, while the
(hips were unmooring, and prefented hinfi with things
i)Qth valuable and uCeFul. A¥e left hia^ a copper- plate,
with this infciiplion, *' Anchored here, his Britannic
jvlajcHy's (hips Refolution. and Adventure, September

Wi" - ' . -

After we had traded for fuch things ag we wanted,
we took our leave, which was a very afFeclionate one.
On returning to the (hips, they were crquded, as on
our arrival, with canoes filled with hogs, fowls, &c.
3Qon after we were on board, the king came, and ftaid
with us till we were near two miles out at fea, and then
after taking another affe<^ionate leave, parted. During
our ilay here, we procured upwards of 300 hogs, ht~
fides fowls and fruit in great abundance.

While at this iiland, Capt. Furneaux engaged a
young man, named Omai, anativcof Ulitea, who had
Oeen difpclT-ffed of his property by the people of Bolo-
bola, to accompany him on his" voyage. This young
man had a good underftanding, honeft principles, and a
natural good behaviour.

On the Sth we entered the harbour of Gharaaneno j
the natives crouded about us with hogs and fruit as
{con as we anchored. We refufcd the hogs, as we had
already more than we could manage ; but feveral of!
the principal people obliged us to take them whether
or no. Ws made a vifit on the 51th to Oreo, who is
the chief of this part of the ifland of Ulitea. He ex-
prefled great fatisfatJlion on feeing Capt. Cook again,
and defircd him to exchange names with him, which
ibv latter agreed to : this is a diftinguiOiing mark o(
fr'iendfhip. Here we traded as ufual, but the balance
of trade was much in our favour.

" ' Oil

tjo Captain Cook's second Voyage

On the loth, the chief entertained us mth a comedy:
a very entertaining part ot which was a theft, com-
mitted, with amazing dexterity, l?y a man and his ac-
complice? Before the thief has time to carry off the
prize, he is difcovcrcd, and a feufflc enfaes : the dif-
coverers are vanquifhed, and the thieves go off in tri-
umph. We returned to dinner after th? play was over,
and as we were walking on (hore in the evening, one of
the natives informed us that there were nine uninha-
^ited iflands to the weftward.

Oreo and his fon paid us a vifit early in the morning
of the nth of September, and brought, as ufual, hogs
^nd fruit with them. We dreflcd "the youth in a fhirt,
and fome other articles, of which he was not a little
proud. After ftaying fome hours, they went afhore,
and ib did Capt. Cook foon after, but to another part
of the (liore. When the chief heard he was fanded,
he went of his own accord and put a hog and, fome
fruit in the boat, and returned without faying any
thing of it to any other perfon. He afterwards came
U'ith fome friends to dinner. After dinner, Po-oorau,
who is the moft eminent chief of the ifland, paid us a
vifit. He was introduced by Ereo, and brought a pre-
fent with him ; for which he received a handfome re-,
turn. We. promifed to vifit thefe two chiefs the next
morning : which wc accordingly did, in company with
feveral gentlemen. Another pla.y was adled, and two
very pretty young women performe'd, othcrwife this
piece was not fo entertaining as the one wc faw be-
fore.

On the 1 4th, Oreo and fome friends paid us a pretty
early vifit, when we informed him, that we Should
dine with him on Ihore, and defired he would let us
have two pigs for dinner, dreffed in their falhion. We
found the floor of the chief's houfe flrewed with leaves,

an4

Round the W o r ld'^

331

and we were foon feated round them. Soon after the
pigs came tumbling over our heads upon the leaves >
and they were both fo hot as fcarcely to be touched,
Xhe table was omamentd with hot bread and plantains:
we had likewife a quantity of cocoa-nuts to drink. We
never faw viftuals drefied cleaner nor better in our
lives, and it bad a mod exquilite flavour, much fupe-
rior to vidluals drefled in our mode ; how they con-
trived it we cannot tell, but though one of them
weighed fifty pounds at leall, it was well done in every
parr, and not too much in any. We had a great num-
ber of attendants, and people came to fee us dine in
public, to whom pieces of pork were handed. The,
chief did not refufe his glafs of Madeira whenever it
came to his turn, and we never at this, or any other
time, faw him afFefted by it. The boat's crew took
the remainder when we had dined. In the afternoon,
we >\ere again entertained with a play.

On the 15th,. we had a fufficient proof of the ti-
morous difpofition of thefe people. We rather won-
dered that none oi them came to the (hips as ufual.
We were afraid that as two men of the Adventure's
crew (laid out all night, that the natives had flripped
them, or done them fome other injury, and were afraid
we Ihould revenge their conduft. We went alhore,
and* found the neighbourhood nearly deferred. Pre-
fently the two men made their appearance, and re-
ported they had been very civilly treated. We could
get no account of the caule of their flight, and could
only learn from a few perfons who ventured near us,
that fevcral were killed and wounded, and pointed to
their bodies wercthe balls of the guns went in and out.
Capt. Cook was very uncafy at this relation, fearing
for the fafety of the people gone to Otaha. In order
to get the bed information, the captain determined to
go to the chief himfelf, whom, afiec much fear<;hing
~ ' ' ' , " " for.

i 1 1

432 Captain Cook*s second Voyage

for, he found ftated under the (hade of a houfe, with
a great many people round him. There Was a great
lamentation -js foon as Capt. Cook approached, the
chief and all his company b'urfting into tears. After
a. I this piece of work, it was found that the caufe of
their alarm; was on account of oiir boats being abfent
luppoflng that the people in them had deferred us'
and that we fliould adopt violent rricthods to recover
thent They were fatisfied, v/hen CaptainCook af-
fured them that there was no caufe for alarni, and that
the boats would certainly return. On the morning of
the 16th, w6 paid the chief a vifit, who Was in his
own houfe in perfedi tranquility. At this time Poreo
left us^

C II A P.

III.

State of the ifland-— Cuftoms of the natives— Paffagc
from Uliteato the Friendly ifles — Hervey*s Ifland dif-
covered — Incidents at MiddleLvirgh — The two (hips
arrive at Amfterdam — Incidents that happened during
their (lay at that Ifland.

ON the lyth of Sept. we determined to put to Tea,
haying a good fupply of all kinds of refrefh-
ments. Before we failed, Oreo and his fon paid us a
vifit - Several can6es filled with fruit and hogs fur-
lounded us ; of the latter we could receive no more,
our decks being fo crouded with them that we could
fcarcely move. In both (hips were about three hun-
' " dircd

iiot/ND THE WCJRLD.

*3i

iired and fifty. Oreo and his friends did not leave us
till we were under fail, and earneftly importuned us toi
tell when we (hould return; Capt; Cook, as many
yoiing men olTcied to come away with us^ took one on.
board, about i8 years of age^ named Oedidee, a na-v
tive of Bolobola. When we were out of the harbour
and had made faili a canoe was obferved following us,,
conduced by twd men ; whereupon we brought to,,
and when along fide, they delivered to Capt. Cook., a.
prefent of roalted fruit and roots, from Oreoi The
captain after having made them a proper return, /fet
fail to the. Weft, . with the Adventure in company--
We ftiall here give foiiie further account of thefe
jflandsi fome things which are rather interefting
having been omitted in the relation of daily tranfadliona
and incidents. ' , r ,

. In the years 1767, iy69\ the ifland of Otahelte, as
it were, fwarmcd with hogs and fo\yls ; but at. this
time it was ill fupplied with thefe animals, that hardly
any thing could tempt the owners to part with them :
and the little ftock they had feemed to be at the difpo*.
falof rheir kings..

When we lay at Oaiti-piha Bay, in the kingdom of '
Tirrabou, or leiTer Peninfula^ we were given to under-
hand, that every hog and fowl belpnped to Waheatoua ; ,
and that all in the kingdom of Opbureonu^.or the
gredter Peninfala, belonged to Otoo. While, at this
ifland we only got 24 hogs in 1 7 days ; half of which
came from the kings themfclves, atid the other half ive
were inclined to think were fold us by their pernjiffion* ,
But with refpeifl to all the fruits produced in the ifland,
with thefe we were abundantly fupplied, except breads
fruit, which was not in feafon; Cocoa-nuts and plan^.
tains we got the moft of ; the latter with a few v ims :.
and other roots, fupplied the place of breads. .

Gg W«

434 Captain Cook's sbcond VoYAoa

We attributed tho fcarcity of hogs to two caufes :
firft to the grtat number of thefe animals which have
been confumed, and carried away for flock, by the
ihips that have touched here of late years : fccondly,
to the frequent wars between the two kingdoms. Two
we have known have commenced fmce the year 1 767 j
but at prcfcnt peace reigns among th^em, though they
do not feem to entertain a cordial friendlhip for each
other.

A-fter our departure, it was our intention to get into
the lat. of the iflands of Middleburgh and Amfterdam,
to which end^ on the 17th of Sept. we fleered to the
wefl, inclining to the fouth, whh a view of getting
clear oi the tra^s of former . navigators. We pro-
ceeded at night with great circumfpeftion, frequently-
laying to, left we fhould pafs any land unobferved.
Oh the 2ifl, and the whole of the 22d, we had rain,
thunder, lightning, a large fwell from the S. and the
wind blew from the N. W. for feveral days ; a fign to
us, that, in that dire£lion, no land was near us. This
was difcovered from the mafl-hcad, on Thurfday the
23d, flretching from S. by W. to S, W. by S. We
hauled up with the wind at S. E. and found it to con-
ifift of two or three fmall iflots, united by breakers, as
are mofl of the low ifles in the fea ; the whole being
in a triangular form,* and about fix leagues in circuity
This ifland is in lat. 19 deg. 18 min. S. a^d in 15B deg.
54 min^ W* long..

Each of the fmall conne^led ifles are cloathed with
woody particularly of the cocoa-nut kind ; but we faw
no traces of inhabitants, and had reafon to believe there
were none. To thefe iflots we gave the name of Her-
vey-s Ifland, in honour of Capt, Harvey of the navy,
«nc.of the lords of the admiralty, and now earl of
Brifiol. A% the landings on this iflp would have occa»
..- '" • fioDcd

Round the 'World.

235

fioned a delay, we I'cfumcd our courfe to the weft, m
which we faw fome men of war, tropic birds, and fly-
ing fiiU On the 25th, we again began to ufe our fea
bifcuit, the fruit being all confumcd ; but of frcQiporlc
each man had every day a neceffary allowance. On
the 29th, in latitude 2ji deg. 26 juin. S. we idtefed ^ur
<;ourfe at noon W. half S^ -

On the ift of Ojftober, at two o'clock P. M. we made
the ifland of Middleburgh, and the iiext morning bore
up for the weft fide thereof, paffing between the fame,
and a.fmall iiland that lay of^it, where we found a cleai:
channel two miles broad. After ruunping about two
thirds of ita length, half a mile from the fipre, we ob-
ferved it aifumed another afpeft, and offered; a, profpeft
both of anchorage and landing. Upon this, wq plied in
under tj>c ifland. We were now vifited by two canoes,
which, came boldly along-fide of us, and feveralof the
Indians entered the Refolut ion without hefitation ;
which marl?; of confidence determined- us to vifit them
if poffible. After making a few trips, we found good,
anchorage, and come to in 25 fathoms water, at three,
cables length, from the fhorc. We had fcarcely an-
chored, when, wie were furrounded with Indians, fome
io canoes, and fome fwimming, feveral came on board,
and among them a chief, named Tioony, to whom Capt.
Cook prefented ajiatchet, fpikcnails,. and other articles,
with which he was highly pleafed*^

A party of our people, in company with Tioony, ^
went on fhore, who were conduced tO' a little creek ^
formed by the rocks, right ajsreafl of the fhips, where
landing was very eafy, and the boats fccurc againftthc
furf. Here we were faluted with lou4 acclamations^
by an immenfe croud of people, who (hewed the moft
evident figns of pacific intentions, not one of them ha- .
ving fo much as a flick, or any weapon in their hands.

They

^^6 Captain Cook's second Voyage

T^ -y thronged fo thick round the boats with cloth,
inatting,&c. that it was fome time hefore we could mak;:;
good our landing. Many of them, who could not get
ticar the boats, threw over the others heads whole bales
of cloth, and retired 'immediately, without either allving
or waiting to giet any thing in return. At length the
chief caufed them to open to the right and left,- and
make room for us to land. We were then conduced
lip to his houfe, which was fituated about 306 yards
from the fea, at the end of a fine lawn, and under (bme
ihaddock trees. In the front was the profpe£t o( the
fca, and the Ihips at anchor. Plantations atiouhding
^ith the richeft produftions of nature, Were placed be'.
hind, and oil each fide. ' We Were feited ori mats,
laid on the floor, and the natives jplace4 them-
selves m a circle roiind dn the outfide; Haying with us
"bag-pipes, Capt. Cook ordered them to be played, and
in return, the chief directed three young women to
fing a fong, which they did with exceeding good' grace
and a few preferits being diftributed kriidngthefe youn^
ivomen, fet all the reft in the circl<i a finding, who did
|iot fit down unrewarded. Their fongs were in no wift
iisurih, but ou the contrary jiilifical and harmonious',

Having continued here fome time, at our own rc-
qucft, we were conduced' to another" plantation, where
the chie^ had a houfe, into which we were introduced.
JBananoes aud cocoa-nuts were fet "before us, and k
bowl of liquor,' prepared in our prefencp, of the juice
of av^v iri '^^^ manner alreadv related -the latter of
which Ivas prefented to each or us in cups made by the
folding of green l^ves, containing near Half a pittt
each cup ; but Capt. Cook was the only pef fon who
tailed the liquor : however the bowl was' foon cmptkd
by the natives, of which both men and women partook ;
i?ut we obfervcd that the fame cup was never filled

Round the World.

*37

jwice, nor did two pcrfons drink cut of it ^ each had
•I frci cup and frefh liquor.

The houfe we were now entertained in was fituated
ut one angle of the plantation, abounding with fruit
iind trees, whofe fragrance dillufed a pleafuiit odour,
iind the fpreading branches made an afrreeablc Ihadr.
Before the houfe was an area, on which we werefeat-
ed. It being now noon, we returned on Ijoard to din-
ner, with the chief Tioony in our company. We had
on the table frefh pork, but he eat nothing, v/hich wt
thought fomcwhat extraordinary. After dinner we ar
gain went on Ihore, and were received as before.

Mr. Fofter, with his botanical party, and fomc other
gentlemen, took a walk into the country. Our two
captains were conduced to the chief's houfe, where
fruit, and fome greens were fet before as. Having
juft dined we could not eat much, but Oedidee and
Omai did honour to the dcfert. We now intimated a
Mre of feeing the country, and Tioony very readily
gratifie'd ou^ wifties. He led through feveral planta-
tions, laid out mth great judgment, and injlofed with
fences made of rvs,ds. Molt of them belonged to our
hofpitable chief, and were all in very good order, and
planted vvith fruit trees. Hogs and very large fowls,
the only domeftic animals we faw, were running near
the houfes, and in ihe lanes that fcparated the pFanta-
tions." Every pcrfon was v^ry much pleafcd with this
delightful country, and the friendly reception we met
With ; and we much regretted, that the feafon of the
year, and other circnmRanccs, would not permit our
longer llay. In the evening we returned on board, and
on Saturday the id of Oftober, the (hips were croud-

cd with people tlic whole day, trafficking in pcrfeft
good order; . ^

" . On

.'xej

nl*^

^^iHHHi' .Ih

,i;

438 Captain Coc'-*s SECOND Vo'S'AOE

On the third, early in the morning while the ffiips
were preparing to get ander fail, Captains Cook and
Forneaux, accompanied by Mr. Forfler, went ofF in
the boar, to take leave of our hofpitable chief. He
met us at the landing place, and had we ncit excufed
ourfelvcs, he would have entertained us at his houfc.
We therefore fpent half an hour with him, feated on
the grafs, in the midfl of a vafl croud of the natives,
who feemcd to vie with each other in doing what they
thought would give us pleafure. Having ipade the
chief a prefent, confifting of various articles, he was
given to underlland that we were going away, at vrhich
he feemed not at all affefted, He went with us into
our boat, with two of his friends, intending to accom-
pany us abroad, but when he faw the Refolution under
fail, he and his companions went into a canoe, and re-
turned on lllore. It is remarkable, that on (hore this
friendly Indian neyer made the leaft exchange j but
now, during his llay in the boat, he bartared fifti-hooks
for nails, and engroffed the trade in a manner wholly
to himfelf.

On the 3d, as foon as Captain. Cook came on board,
we departed from Middleburg, and made fail down to
Amflerdam. When we were about half way between
the two illcs, we were met by three canoes, and the
people made feveral attempts to come on board, but
without effeft, as the rope we threw out to them broke,
and we did not iTiorten fail. They were likewifc unfuc-
cefsful in boarding^ the Adventure.

We ran along the fouth-weft coaft of Amflerdam, at
the diftance of half a mile from the fliore, whereon the
fea broke in a great fnrf. By the help of glaffes, we
faw the face of the whole iiland, which, in every part
that came under our obfervation, appeared Covered
with plantations. Along the ^^Ihorc we perceived the
. . - natives

•««

Round the Worl

23^

natives *unnmg in great numbers, and difplaying fmall
white flags, the emblems of peace, which fignab w©
anfwered by hoifting a St. George's enfign. At this
time three of the natives of Middleburg, who had con-
tinued coo . long oi\ board the Adventure to rcturiiy
quitted Her, and fwam to the (hore, from whence we
concluded they had no ftrong inclination to accompany
us in our Voyage.

We had no fooner opened the weft fide of the ifie.y
than feveral canoes, having four men in each, came,
boldly along-fide, and, when they had prefented us with
fome ava root, came on board without the leaft cere-
mony. Having got into Van Diemen's Road, we an-
chored in 18 fathoms water, little more than a cable's
length from the breakers j and our coafting anchor, 105
keep the (hip from tailing on the rocks, lay in 47 fa-
thom water. By this time we were furrounded with
people, and our feamen were fo eager in purchafiiig
their curiofities, even at the expence of cloaths, that
Capt. Cook found it abfolutely neceffary to prohibit any
farther commerce of this fort. The good effevt of this
order, was, that on the 4th, the natives brought us
fowls, pigs, bananoeSy and cocoa-nuts in abundance,
for which we exchanged fmall nails and pieces of dothy
even old ra.gs would purchaie pigs and fowls.

A trading party was now fettled, and our com-
manders went on (hore, attended by Mr. Forfler and
other officers, in company with a chief named Attago,
who had attached himiclf to Capt. Cook,, the firft mo-
ment of his coming aboard, which was before the Ihips
came to anchor. This perfon of fome note prefented
the captain with feveral articles, and as a greater tef-
timouy of friendfliip exchanged. names with him j a cuf-
tom, which, £^s we have obferved, is pra^ifed at Ota-
keite, and the Sociniau liks. We wer^ repe^ed on
• . • . - - fliorc

ifww.viB* .'.J'."., ... iiu,^[ujAP«iiip«inpp«|p|mRipp||p|

*« -

flr4a Captain Good's SECOND VoYA^if

ihorc with the fame dcmohftrations of joy as at Mid-
dlcburg, and the gentlemen fet out into the country,'
except the two commanders, who diftributed prefents
., to fuch of the natives as Attaigo pointed out,' who were

r% afterwards difcbverfcd to be of fupcriof rank tb him-

fdf i though at this time,' by the attcnfion.paid tS hiin,
■i . he appeared to be; the principal pej-fon. , Having com-
plained of the heat, Attago mewed and featfd us under
the (hade of a large tree ; arid the people; who were
ordered to form ai circle, never attempted tb pafs the
prcfcribed bound?, and croud Upon us, as did ihofe of
Otaheite.

A.fter having been here fome time, we hinted our
defire to fee the country ; whereupon Attngo imme-
diately conducted us along a lane that terminated in
an open green, on one fide of which we faw a place of
worftiip, boift on a mount about eighteen feet high.
It w^as an oblong fquare, inclofcd by a ftoinc parapet
wall, about three feet in height ; from which the mount,
covered with green turf, rofc to the building with a
gradual Hope. The building was twenty by fourteen
feet. When we had advanced within fifty yards of its
front, every one fat down on the green. Three elder-
ty men, whom we took for pricfts, begun a prayer,
Iiaving their faces to the houfe, which lafted about ten
minutes, and this being ended, ihcy came and feated
thcrttfeWcs by us. We irade them prefents of what
we had about us, and then proceeded tb view the pre-
miles, to which they did hot (hew the leaft reltidtance.
The houfe was. built in every rcfpc6t like their tommon
dwellings j with pofts and rafjers, covered with palm
tjiatth. the eaves came within three feetbf the grotind^
apd the open fpace was filled up with ftrong matting
' made up of palnnr-leaves as a wall. H the front, lead-
ing to the top of this, wcreiwoftorcftcps; and round
tht houfe was a • gravel walk : the floor was alfo laid
; ' : . ■ ' " " with

KPPTiPMinwwp

^mmmmmm

/* . '»•

:l\S

;»6

*r .

€»■

i- ■)'

■\^--.^^

IJPP^^BSS""^

'^^1

ROUKD ^HB W-blLlOk

«P

^.•

f^^e df blue pebbks^ raifed fix i nches liigher. tn ctfcr/
aQgU'of tha building ftood an image roushiy cavvad ^ .
woo^j and another lay on one fide, 'vtiis image was:
turned over and Qver by Attagn^ as he would haTft
donfi any other log of wood, which, convinced u«, that
they were not confidcred by the natives ag oliije^s of wor-'
Ihip. We put feveralciueftions to A ttago concerning
this matter, |)ut did not underftand his answers ( for
qur readers are to be infor4ai$d, >hat, atb^^r laft arrlVaK
yft hardly could underftand a word th^ people ibid.
We thought proper to leave an offering, and there-
6>fe laid down upon the platfprm Toms medal?, rslWu,
and other things, which our friend ioimediate^ty took
up and put in his pocket. We could not conceTve hovr'
they could cut (bch large iftones but of tN cor|l roeks»
with which the waMs were made that inclo&cl the
mo\ini^ Tome of them biiqg ten feet by four, and near
fix inches thick. The mount, which, ftood in -a^leiiid
of grove, was open only to view on that fide whichi
frorted the green, and here iivc rocks met, moft of
wtuQh appeared to th^ piiblic. Among ^ivarto^i
treea tlmt comnored the groves, we found i»h$ 2t<^
Uee» of which are made dubs, and a fort of bw palni^
very CQmmoja in the northern fparts of Holland. : Tk^
place of worlhif, in th^ laogua^e of Anifterdatn, i^^
eallcd Atfia-tDu^ea. :

' 'f r-

Oo our return to the water fide^:vfitufii^d«s^td^^d^
road leading into the country, about (iiftAen feet broaitv'
and as level as a bowting-green, feve^at btli^ roads
.interfe£led it, all inck)fed on each fidi with neat feed-^
fences, and (haded by fruit-trees. The country here-
abouts is (urprfzingly fertiie,: tniorhuoh, that we might
eaiUy hav9 imagined ourielvts in the.m(^ p|ea^ntl}lu«
atton ihu £ucope could atlbrd. Here are various d^^
iightful walk vshd^iOi All kiQhof^iiQ»|liv'>ii^groii#if

itta^ ii«. Hh '^'' Nature

■■■■f

tr--—

,;s::i- ■•<•■

-)-■■'.

RRWIPI

341 Captain Cook's SECOND VoTAot

Nature affiftcd hf art ho 'vrhcre appears- to more advan-
tage than in this fertile fpot. The roads, even the high
public one, which was about fixteeii feet broad, occu-
pied no more fpacc than was abfolutely ncceffary, nor
did the boundaries and fences take up above four inches
each, and in many places of thdc were planted ufcful
trees and plants*

On the 5th, early in the morning, the captain's friend
Atta^go, brought him a hog and fome fruit, tor which,
in return, he received a hatchet. The pinnace having
been Jent on fhore to trade as ufual, foon returned, and
we were informed that the natives in many refpefts, were
exceeding troublefoine. The day before they had itole
the boat's grapling, and at this time they were for tak-
ing every thing out of the pinnace. It was therefore
judged necefTary to have on more a guard, and accord-
ingly the marines were ient, under the command of
Lieut.. Fdgcumbe.

On the 6th, our friend Attago vifited us again as
ufual, brought with him a hog, and aiHfled us in pur-
chafing many more. We went afterwards on (horcr
vifited the old chief, with whom we ftayed till noOn,
and returned on board to dinner, accompanied by Atta-
go, who never one day left Capt. Cook. Being about
to depart from this ifland, a prefent was made for the
old ktng, and carried on (horc in the evening. Attago
very ftrongly importuned us to call again at this ifle on
our return, and requefted of the captain more than
once, to bring him a fait of clothes like thofe he had
on, which was his uniform.^

The ffipplies which wc procured from this ifland were
about 150 pigs, doublethat number of .fowls; as many
bananas, &c. as we could find room for, and, had we
continued longer^ we might have had more than our

wants

Round tHE Wo r l d. '

843

wants required. We wt re now about to depart, when
in heaving the coafting cible, it broke, by being chaf-
fed by the rocks j by x^hich accident wc loft nearly
half the cable, together w ith the anchor, which lay in
40 fathoms water, without iny buoy to it; from whence
^jugment may be formed pt this anchorage.

. About ten oN;lock P. M. we got under fail, but our
decks being encumbered with fruit, fowls, &c. wc
kept plying under the land till they were cleared.
4s to the natives of thefe iflands, both fexe» are
pf a common fize with Europeans; but ^ith re-
fpe^l; to complexion, their colour is that of a lightiih
copper, and more uniformly fo than among thofe of
Otaheite. and the Society ifles. Of our gentlemen^
fome thought thefc people were a much handfomer
race ; otliers were o£ a contrary opmion. ' It is certain
that they have in general regular. features, with a good
fiiape : they arc alib a^ivc, briflc, and lively. The
women arc efpecially. very merry and fociable, and
would chat with us, without being invited^, or. if wo
fccmed attentive, withoi^t confidcring whether wc un-
derflood them or* not, ' They appeared in general' to
be modcft : yet inftances of- thole of a difi[erent cha-
rafter were not" wanting ; and having fonne venereal
complaints, Capt. Cook took all poiTibic care, that the
difordcr fliould not be communicated to them. ' When--,
ever opportunity ferved) they difcovered a ftrong pro-
penfity $0 pilfermg, and. in th<i art of thieving are full
as knowing' and dexterous as. tlie Otiheiteans.' Their!
hair, particularly, of the females, is bhck, but fomc
of the men have a method- of ftaining their hair with
various CQlours, as white, red, and blue, which we
we faw upon the fame head. It is wore cut ihorc, and
we met with only two exceptions to this cuftom, The .
boys have only a fingle' lock on the top of the head,
^on;(b^d upwards, and a fmall quantity on each fide. '

IPHP

t44 Captain Cook's sbcond VoTags

^e beards of th^ men are ibaved q^lte clofe with two
0iellfi ) and even thofe of an- advanced age haye fine
eyes, and in'general good teeth.

'the dreft of the natives confiftS of a piece of cloth
or matting, hanging belqW the knees^ but from the
waift upwards they are generally naked. We \vere en-
tertained^ frequently with fong^ ftoiA th€ women^ in an
tgrecable ftiie, and the tnufic thty acGompanied hj
ffiapping their fingers^ fo m to keep time to it^ Both
fhis and their voices are ver^ harmonious j and they
have 1^ ^on(ider%ble. compafs in the^r notes.

^ The government" of this country is much like that oi
ptaheite^ that isj in a king or prime chief (called
Are^ke) with qther fubordinate chiefs, who are lords of
certain diftridits* peirhaps fole proprietors, to Wlhom the
people feera to pay great obedience. We alfo^ per-
ceived a third rank, onti of .Whom wa^ our friend At*
lago, who (eemed to have not a little influence over
fhe tdmmon people. It Was the opinion of Ca|it. Cdok,
that all the latid is private property, and tha:t here^ as
at Ot^heite, ar$ a fet of (brV^knts or flayes, who have
no property in land. Indeed, wc cannot fuppoi^ every,
thing to be in common^ ifi « country fo richly cultivated.
Few wfciuld toil if they did not expe£lto teap, and en-
joy the fruits t>f thbk labo^r as th^ir Qwn. Panics of
tixj eight br teii people, would frcqU^cntly bring fruit
down to the landing-place; bUt we alwa,ys &w on^ man
of Wdman, fuperintidnd the fale of ^t Whole^ without
whofe eotifeiit lio ekcbahges could be tnadc} and the
t^iiigs they bartered for wire always/givcn them^ all
which plainly &eWs they were ^e cwner^ 'and the
0diera onl^ their fcrvantl*

i&:

iii

ROiUMD THIS W0ILL9.

»4^

CHAP, rv,

The RefoIuHrttt atid Adventure contintte Adr voyage
from Amfterdafti-^Praceed for Queen Charlottc'Ji
Sound— Ati intdryictf with tbe inhabitants— The final
feparation of the two ftiips-sTTranfa^tions and inci-
dents in Queen Charlotte*^ Sound — ^The inhabitants,
difcovered to \tt tanttibal$— -The K.efoitjtion depart*
from the Sound, and proceeds iq fearch after her
confort— Courfe of the Refolution in fearch of the
fuppofcd continent ; and the methods purfued to ex-
plore the Southern Pacific Ocean — Arrives atEaftcr-
^fland, and tranfa^ions there, &c,

ON the 7^h of O^ober, ^^n: tnade fail to the fcutb-
ward, an4 pur route determined wa«, to make
fori^een Charlotte's Sounds there to take m a fupply
of wood and water-, ^nd then to proceed on farthet^^
difcoveries to thp S. aud E. We now after a fttflt
hours calm, ftrctchcd with a S. W. wind to the S. E,
but on l^inday the t<3th, it veered round to xheS. E,
and £. S. £. upon which we refuined ourcourfe to thcr

§,s.vr.; ■■■•■■ . .

0« the nil, at five o^^lock A, M. we made the kntl
of Ne «r Zealand, extending from N. W. by N. to W,
S. W. We now ftood in more till we were a-breaft <jf
TjiibleXZape and Pardand Ifland, which is joined to h;
by a ledge of rock. 'We advanced to the Bladk CapiB
9n the ^2d, and feveral inhabitants took courage and

boarded

14^ Captah* Cook's second Voyage

toardcd us, amongfl whom was a chief j he was clothed
elegantly, and his hair was drefTed in the high faihioi)
of the country. "Wc entertained hini in tlie cabin,
and his companions fold us fome fifti. Thefe people
were very fond of nails, and the chief received them
with much greater eagcinefs than wjieu the captain
jgavc him hogs, fowls, feeds and roots. We obtained
apromife from him not to kill any, and if he keeps his
word, there are enough to flock the whole ifland ; the
prefent confined of tvf o fows, two boars, four hens,
and two cocks j we like wife gave him fcvcral ufcful
feeds, and inflruiled him iix the manner of fctting them.
The Adventure was now a good \yay to leeward, and
wc were obliged to tack, (he was confequemly feparated
from us ; but wc were joined by her on the 24th.

The wind was now very high., fo that we could carry
liardly any (iiil; we endeavoured to make Cape Pallifer,
but we had fuch a hard gale for two days^ that drove us
oif the landjufl: as we were in fight of port. This was
very mortifying ; but two favourable circumftAices at-
tciided it, for we Were in no danger of a Ice-lhore, and
it was fair over head. In the evening of the Zjth, we
endeavoured to find the Adventure, which the florm
bad feparated, but without tffeft, the 'vtreather being fo
hazy, that v/e could not fee a mile round U5,

On tlie 28tb, we faw the Adventure about five miles.
t« letvvard, and we kept company with her till the
night of the 29th, when fhe difappearcd, nor did we.
fee her at Jay-light, Charlotte Sound was the ap-
pointed place of rendezvous; and as wc had feparated
from the Adventure wc w ere obliged to make for it,
otherwife Capt. Cook would have fought a fupply of
wood and water further fouth. We flood to the caft-
ward, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure.

Round the World.

On the 2nd of November the morning was clear,
and we kept a fharp look-out for the Adventure j but
as we could not fee her, we judged ihe was got into the
Sound. We accordingly made for the fhore, and an-
chored in 1 2 fathoms water, when feveral of the inha-
bitants came on board, who were extravagantly fond
of nails. We ran up into Ship Cove on the 3d, where
we expefted to find the Adventure, but were difap-
pointed. Hi;re we were obliged to unbend the fails,
which had b«.*en very much damaged in the late ftorms.
Several people came on board, who remembered the
Endeavour when on this coaft. The empty calks were
ordered on fhore, and the neccffary repairs both to
them and the {hip were ordered to be made. .

On the 5Ph, one of the natives took air opportunity
of dealing one of the feamen's bag of cloaths, whicn
with fome difficulty we recovered. This made our peo-
ple more cautious in future. Several ftrangers came
to vifir, us in five canoes, they took up their quarters
in a cave near us, and decamped the aext morning with
fix of our fmall water calks. All the people whom we
foL nd on our arrival likewifc went with them.

On the Z2d, oiw officers vifited the dwelling-places,
of feveral of the natives, - found fome human bones,
from which the flefti appeared to be lately taken ; and
on the 23d, they being on (hore, faw the head and
bowels of a youth, lately killed, lying on the beach \
his heart was ftuck on a fork, and fixed at the fore-
part of one of the largeft canoes. It is certain that the
New Zealanders are cannibals, which this circumftancc
fully proves ; but from all we could learn, they only
eat the flefh of thofe ilain in battle.

Before we quitted the Sound, we left a memoran-
dum, fctting forth the day of our departure, what

caurfe

a^ Captain Cook's second Voyage

<;ourfe wc intended fteering, &c. and buried it in a hot-
do, where it muft be ducovercd, ihonld Capt. Fur-
neaux touch here, though we did not place any great
expeftation in fuch an event. We failed from hence
on the 25th ot Nov. and fought the Adventure in fe-
vera! harbours, but without effed. All hopes of fee-
ing her again were now vaniihed, and we fet about our
intended difcoveries by ourfelvc!».

■» ■ '

On the 21ft, wc came the fecond time within the an-
tartic circle; and on a fudden got among a great quan-
tity of loofe ice, and a clufter of ice iflands, which it
was very difficult to fteer clear of, as the fog was very
thick. On the 24th, they increafed fo fail upon us,
that we could fee ne^r one hundred round us, be(id?s
ap aftoniftiing quantity of fmall pieces. Here w .. ^nt
the 25th, being Chriftmas-day, in much the fame man-
ner as we did the preceding one.

On the 2nd of January, 1774, "we fleered N. W. in
6rder to explore great part of the fea between us and
our track to the iouth ; but were obliged to fteer norths
eafterly the ncKt day, and could not accomplifli our de-
fign. On the 25 :h, we found ourfelves in a pleafant
riimatc, and no ice in view ; and on the 26th, came a
third time within the antartift circle.

On the 30th, we faw a very extenfivc field of ice,
and within the field, we diftinAly enumerated 97 ice
hills, of various iizfs ; it is probable that fuch moun-
tains of ice w^re never fecn in the Greenland feas. Oa
this account, the attempt to get farther to the fouth,
though not abfolutely impoffible, was yet both rafli and
dangerous. The majority of us were of opinion that
?ce extended to the pole, as it might poffibly join feme
land to which it has bc«n eoniiguous fiute the earlieil
times. Should there be lapd to tlie foutl^ behind this

ice,

o ir 9 t » » W o R i ]t).

i4^

fee, it certainry can aJSbrd no better retreat for m^Uji
bcaft, or birdsj than the ice itfelf, With which it jnufl
tertainly be covered. As we could aot go any farthc^
to the louth, we thought it advifeable to tack, and ftani
back to the northj being at this time in lat. 7 1 deg. jq«
min/^ and 106 deg. 54 min. W. Happily for us wtf
tacked in good time; for we had no fooncr done it; tha^
a thick fog came on, which would haVc been highljf
dangerous when we fell in with the ice.

» - 'i"'

On the ifl: of Feb. we were able to take in fomft
jnore ice, which, though it was cold work to colleiJi,'
ferved us for prefent confumption when melted, Capt.
Cook was now Well fatlsfied that no continent was tp
be found in this ocean, but that which is totally inaccef-^'
fible ; he therefore deterrtiined to pafs the enfuing win^
ter within the tropic, if he met With no other objedi
worth purfuing. It was deterniihed to fteer for Ea'fter
Ifland, or Davis*« Land, which we knew vei-y little a-
bout; and v/e wefe happy at the thoughts of getting
Into a warmer climate. We had continual gales fronj
the 8th to the 12th inft. when it fell a dead calm. ThcJ
weather varied every day confiderably till the 25th.
Th6 fame day Capt. Cook was taken fo ill as to te
obliged to keep his bed, and recovered very flowly. li
is fomething very extraordinary, that when he could-
eat nothing elfe, he had a inind to a dog of Mr. For-
ller's, which was killed, and he reliftied both the ^efti
and the broth mide of it. This feems very pdid kind
of food for a fick man ; and, in the opinion of many
people, 'vould create much greater ficknefs than it wa^
likely to be of aiiy means of removing.

On the I ith of March, land was fccn from the marf^
head, which proved to be Eafter Ifland : and on thV
13th, we came to an anchor in 36 fathoms Water, befprcl
the fandy beach. One of the natives came oil boardl

*5® Captain Cook's second VovAOif

the Ihipj where he ftaid two nights. A party of us
went amore on th* i4th^ and fonnd a great number of
the natives afifembled, who were pacifically inclined,
and feemed defirous to fee us. We very foon found
out that thefe gentlemen were as expert thieves as any
before met with; we could fcarce keep any thing in
our pockets, and it was with difficulty we could keep
our hats upon our heads.- Thefe people feemed to un-
derft'and the ufe of a mulquet, and to be very much
afraid of it. Here were feveral plantations of potatoes,
fugar-canes, and plantains,} but otherwife the country
appeared barren and without food. As the natives did-
not feem willing to part with thefe articles, and as we
were in want of them, we determined to flay only a few
days.

A party of officers and men were fent up the coun-
try in order to examine it ; and Capt. Cook remained'
on Ihore among the natives. An advantageous trade
for potatoes was opened, but foon put a ftop to by the
owners of the fpot from whence they were dug. Ic
feems that they had ftolen thefe potatoes ; for they all
ran away at his approach. From this circumftance it
is pretty evident, that they are not more ftriftly honefl
among themfclvcs than to ftrangers. They found the
greateft part of the ifland barren; though in many
places there were plantations of the roots before men-
tioned. «

Travelling on, they round in fome places a poor fort
of iron, ore, and afterwards came to a fruitful part
of the illand. on which were feveral plantations. They
could get no good water in their journey; but were
obliged to drink what they could get, on account of the
extremity of their thirft. They found the natives fo
addifted to theft, that they were obliged to fire fome
finallihot ataman, who took from them their bag 06

provilions

Round the WbuLD*

*.5*

provifions and implements. The lliot hit this feKovr
in the back, on which he dropped the bag and fell ; bu<'
he foon afterwards got up and walked off. The mall
tan round them and repeated feveral words, which they
could n •: underftand; and afterwards they were good-
friends together, no one ever attempting to Ileal 'any
^orc. -•

Many of our 'people gained the fummit of an hill,
but could not fee any bay or cree|c, nor difcover. any
figns of frefli water. They returned to the fhip in the
evening. No ftirubs worth mentioning were found ia
this excvirfion, neither did they fee an animal of any
fort, and but very few birds. They could not difcover
any thing in the whole ifland to induce (hips, in the ut-^
(noft diftrefs to touch at.

f: n A p.

The Refolution fails from lafter Ifland to the Marquet
fas-^Departs from the Marquefas, with an account
of the Inhabitants, &c. — The Refolution leaves Otar
heite— Her arrival at the ifland Huaheine — Various
incidents related — The fliip proceeds to Ulietea — :
Incidents during her ftay, andj,thc charadlcr of^
Ocdidee.

ON the 1 6th of March, we took our departure from.
Eaftcr Iflc, and (teercd for the Marquefas iflands,
^tepdin^ to make fome ^ay therci if nothing materia/i

intervened.

^ Cx^t jUK Co0k'B HECOtH) VOAVG^

ittt^rv^Aed* On the 6ttr of April, we difcovcrcd an
Kiandt when in Iflt. ^ deg. ao nun: and long. 13& deg!
]f 4 inin. we were about 9 leagues diftanc* fronj it. We
loon difcovered another^ afterwards a third and foiirtb;
iftcfe were the Matquefas. difcovered in 1595. After
yiriovs unfuccefsful '' trials to come to an anchor, we
^aitie at laft before Mendana's port, and anchored in
34 fathomisi water, at the entrance of the bay.

Several danoe$ appeared, filled with natives, but i^
^^ withibme difBpulty they were perfudded to come
ilong-fide; tbey were at lail indwced by fomc fpike
iiails and jt hatchet. From thefe people we got fome
i&(h and ftuit. Great numbers of them came along-
fide next morning, ahd brought with them one pig,
fome bread-fruit and plantairfs, for which they received
nails. We often detc(5led them in keeping our goods,
and making no return ; which pradicc was not put a
ikop to till Capt. Cook fired a mufquet ball over the head
Of one man, who had repeatedly ferved us fo.

When Capt. Cook law they were too many natives
Onboard, he defired that they might be well looked af-
ter, or they would certainly commit many thefts.
Before the captain Was well got into the boat, he was
fold that a canoe,' with fome men in her, were making
6ff with one of the iron (lanchfOns from the oppofite
gangway. The captain immediately ordered them to
fire over the canoe,' but not to kill any body. There
t^as fuch a noife on board, that his orders were not
iA&.m&.\y heard, and the poor thiet was killed at the
fhird (hot. The reft that were in the canoe leaped
bverboard, buf got in again juft as Capt. Cook came
t^p to them, and threw overboard the ftanchion.

' One of the men fat laughing as he laded the blood
|6() wsktei but of the boat, but the other looked very

*"- *^ ""'•■ ~ - "■■'■ "■■'"'' fcyiou^

B. O ir K D T H E W O & L D,

«53

l^ioos «nd 4cje<aed. We afterwards had 'r€afeil «o
think that the father of the latter had been (h6t. The
Natives rcti|red with great precipitation at this unhappy
accident; but their fears were in fonie meafarc allayed
by the captain's ioUowing tlien) into the bay, and mak^
|hem prcfents. . ' •

A man who had the appearance of a chief, came plF
to us with a pig upon his (houlderj he was prefentcd
with a hatchet in return, and afterwards great numbers
6i the native^ came along-iide,, and carried on fome
traffic Peace being now eftablillied, another party 6f^
men were fcnt alhore. The natives received us ci-
villy, and we got a fupply of water, as well as (otn^
togs and fryit. On the 9th, we collected a good many
pigs and other refreOimehts, and returned on board in
the evening. Wc alfo obtained feveral pigs from the
different canoes that came along-fidcof us on the ioth»
and by this time we bad a fu&cient number to afford
the crews a frefli meal.

We was now determined to remove our c^uarters,
ind make fail for Otahcite, hoping to fall in with fomc
©f thofe iflands, where our wanis might Cii'eAually be
relieved. We had been nineteen weeks at fea, living
^hc whole time upon fait proviTions, and therefore could
Aot but want fome rcfrelbments ; yet we muft own,
with grateful acknowledgments to goodnefs faprem«,
that on oiir arrival here, it could fcarcely be faid we
had one iick man, and but a few who had the leaft
^mplaint. .

On the i4.th, we weighed from St. Chriftina, and
ftood over for La JDominica, and the night was fpcnt
in plying between the two iiles. On the 12th, we (leer-
ed to the S. and at five P. M. Refolutiori Bay bore E. K.
E. half E* diftantfive leagues, andtheifiand of Magda*

^54 Gaptain Cook's second Voyaqb

' . ■ , ■ ■ >
lena about nine leagues, which \^ as the only view we
liad of it. ' ■■■'^ ■ ;; ^' 'h''_ ' ■

On the 20th, hauling round the weft end of the iflandt
we found a great f well, rolling in from the S. by which
we knew we were clear of thefe low illands; and being
iiot within fight of land^ made the bed of our wiay to
jO^aheite, having a ftrong gale at E. attended with
ihowers of rain.- On the 21ft, we made the high land
of Otaheite i by fun-fet was in with Point Venus, and
Jhe nejct morning, anchored in Matavai Bay, in feveii
fathoms water. Our arrival was no fooher kno\yn to
the natives, than they paid us a vifit, exprefled the
inoft lively congratulations, and fupplied us with ti(l|
and fruit Sufficient for all the crew. . .

pn the ?4th, Otoo and other chiefs, with a train of
littendants, brought us ten large hogs, belides fruit,
which made their vifit exceedingly agreeable. As the
Ring's coming had been announced to us, and knowing
how much it was our intereft to keep this chief our
ffiend, Capt Goolc met hinj at the tents, and conduced
his retinue, with hitnfelf, on board, where they ftaid
dinner, and appe^ed highly plcafcd with their recep^
tion. Next day, notwithftanding we had much thun^
der, lightning and rain, the king canie ^gain to fee us,
and brought v.i^h him another prefent. When at Am-
fteidam. we had colledled, among other curiofitics,
ifome red parrot feathers. Thefe precious valuables
procured us hqgs, fruit, ^nd every other thing the
illand afforded.

: On the 26th, Capt. Cook, accompanied by fome of
the officers and gentlemen, went down to Oparree, to
yifit Otoo by appointment. When arrived, we faw a
large number of canoes in motion, but were much fur-
pritcd at perceiving more than 300 ranged along ihore,

all

Round the World^

^si

all compleatly equipped and manned ; befides a vdfl:
number of armed men en the (here. We landed m
the midft of them^ and were received by a vaft multi-
tude, fome under arms, and feme not. The cry of the
former was Tiyono^ and Towha, and the latter Tiyo
noOtoo. Towha, was admiral, or commander of the
fleet. Upon our landing, we were met by a chief,
named Tee, uncle to the king, of whom we enquired
for Otoo. Soon after we were met by 'f owha, who
received us^ifl a ftiendly manner. He took Capt. Gook
by the one hand, and Tee by the other, and dragged
them, as it were, through the crowd that was divided
into two parties, both of which proclaimed themfelves
his friends. One party wanted him to go to Otoo, and
the other to remain with Towha. When come to the
ufual place of audienc % Tee left us to go and bring
the king. Towha inlifted on the captain's going with
him, but would not confent. Tee being defirous of
conducing the captain to the king; Towha oppofed,
and he was obliged to defire Tee to defift, and to leave
him to the admiral and his party, who condu£led hint
to the fleet.

When wc came to the fleet, we told 1 60 large dou-
ble canoes, equipped, manned, and armed. The chiefs
and ail thofe on the fighting ilages, were habited in
cloth, turbans, breaft-plates and helmets. Their veflels
were full drelTed with flags, dreamers, &c. fo that the
fleet made fuch a noble appearance, as -we had sever
before feen in this fea, and what no one could have ex-
petted. Their inftruments of war were clubs, Ipears^
and ftones. Wc counted exclufive of the veflels of
war, 170 fail of fmaller double canoes, all rigged witlv
mafl: and fail, which the war canoes had not. Thele
we judged were defigned for tranfports, vi(5lual!ers, &c.
for in the war canoes were no forts of provifions
whatcvcc ' ,

-■ ^ 'We

4^6 Captain Cooit'a second VoyAoh

Wa conje<3:iircd that in thcfe 330 vcflcls, there wefe
Oto lte& than 7760 men, a number incredible, efpecially
as\KC arctoU they all belonged to tlie diftridts of Atta-
iiQuroii and Ahopa4:ea. Having viewed this fleet, it
was our intention to have gene qn boards could we
bave f«en the admiral At laft Tee came, by whom we
-was Informed, that he was gone to Matavai. When
Ve got to Matavai, ouf fiienda to!d us, that this fleet
was part of the afmanaent . intended to go a'gainft
^.meo, ^hofe chief had thrown off the yoke of
Otaheit«.

... •■.,■■ t , ■ •

, Gn the >7t^, in the jnoming, Towlia fent ua by his
fcnraots, two large hogs and fome fruit. The bearers
of this pf cfent h^d or&rs not to tcccivc any thing in
teturn,' noi- woijtd they whcin ofS^red them. Some of
bur gcftriemcn went with the captaiij in his boat to
Oparre, Wherd tvt foiihd Towha and tht king ; after a
fliort tiiir, ht brdoght. them hqih qa boird, together
with Tarcvato'o, :I;t^ king's younger brother. When
- they drew near the (hip, the admiral, who had never
feen one before^ expreffcd llrong figns of fatprizej and
when on board, he was (hewed, and beheld every part
©f it with great attention. When ToiVha retired after
dinner, he put a hog on board without our Icnowlcdge,
or v/iiiting for a return ; and hon after Otoo axid hii
attendants departed alfo. " -

On the I ft of May, feveral chiefs fupplicd <ia with
a large quantity of provifions; and the day following^
«ur fViend Towha fent us a prefcnt of a hog,, and a-
boat loaded with various forts of fruits and rootfc Ga
the 7th j in the morning, we found Otoo at the tents,
of whom the captain aiked leave to cut down fome
trees for fud. He took him to a growine near the
fca (hore, the better to make him undcrftana what fort
Ilc wanted ^ and he fecmed much plcafcd wbca he told

Round THfi World.

4^7

tern no trees ftiohld be alt doWft tliat bore Jiny kind 6? -
ft-uit. This alTurance from us he repeated feveral times
aloud to the people about us^

In the afternoon, when on board, we were honoured
with a vifit from the royal family, confiding of Otoo,
his father, brother, and two fiftcrs t but this was pro-
perly the father's vifit, who brought the captain a com-
plete mourning drefs, a prefent he much valued ; for
which he had in return whatever he dcfired, which
was uot a little ; and to the reft of the company wei-e
prefented red feathers* They were theft conduced
afliorc in the captain's boat. Otoo and his friends
vcre fo well pleafcd with the reception they met with,
that, at parting, We were granted the liberty to cut
down as many trees as we wanted, and what fort we
pleafedi

On the Stiij our friendly connedlions With the natives
were interrupted by the liegligence of one of our cen-
tinels at the tents, who had his itiufquet carried away,
he having llept or (Quitted his poft* We received ait
imperfedl account of this affair from Tee, but under-
ftood enough to knoW that fomething had happcnd,
which alarmed the king, who Tee faid, was under
^rcat apprehcnfions of being killed. We therefore
loft no time in goinfT aftiotej and when landed^ were
in'ormed of the tranfaftion by the ferjeant who com-
manded the party. Moft of the natives had fied at our
approaching the tents. Tarevatoo flipt from us in si
moment, and a very few befides Tee had courage tp
remain.

We went immediately in fearch of Otoo, and in the
Way endeavoured to allay the fears of the people. Halt-
ing advanced foitic diftance from tlie ihore in the cottfi*
try, Tec on a fudden flopped, aftd advifcd our retui-n-

K k uig»

t$9 Captain Cook's second Voyaob

ing, faying, he would proceed to the mountains, whi-
ther Otoo had retired, and inform him that we were
ftill his friends. The captain thought it was to no pur-
pofe to go farther, we therefore took Tec*s advice, and
returned on board,

[ After this, Oedidee was difpatchcd to the king, to
let him know his fears were groundlefe, feeing the cap-
tain required of him only what was in his power, the
return of the mufquet. A fliort time after, we faw fix
large canoes coming round Point Venus. Sufpefting that
one belonging to thefe that had committed the theft, it
was refolved to intercept them, for which purpofe a
boat was put off, and another ordered to follow. One
of the canoes was a-head of the reft, and feemingly
making for the (hip* We put along fide of her, and
' found three women that we knew. They faid they
were going a board the fhip with a prefent to the cap.
tain, and that the otiier canoes wer' 'aden with fruit,,
hogs, &c. Satisfied with thit intelligence, the captaia-
recalled his orders for intercepting them, thinking they
alfo, as well as this one, were bound for the Ihip.

We therefore left the fingle canoe, and proceeded to
fiiorc, to fpeak with Otoo; but upon, landing, found

; he had not been there. Looking behind us we faw all
the canoes, the one we had lett near the (hip not ex-
cepted, making off in the greateft hafte* Vexed at be-
ing thus deceived, we refolved to purfuc them, and as
we paffed the ihip, Capt. Cook gave orders to fend out
another boat for the fame purpofe. We overtook and

* brought five out of the fix along-fide, but the one by
which we were outwitted got clear off.

In one of the prizes was a friend of Mr. Foftcr's,
who had hitherto called himfelf an Earee, alfo three
•women, his wife, daughter, and the mother of the late

Toutaha-

Round th^ Wo r l d.

25S>

Toutaha. At this time Tee and Oedidce came ovk
board, and aflured us, that the man who had ftolc the
mufquetwas from Tiarabou; and that we might credit.
their declaration, they defired us to fend a boat to Wa-^
hcatoua, the kingf of Tiarabou, offering to go them-
felves in her, and recover the mufquet. This ftory,
though not altogether fatisfaftory, carried with it an air
of probability ;and thinking it better to drop the af- •
fair altogether, the c iptain fufTered Mr. Poller's friend
to depart with his canoes. *

The captain then defired Tee to tell Otoo, that he
fliould give himfelf no farther concern about the muf-
qflet, being fatisfied none of his people had committed
the theft, ' V/e had now given it up,, concluding it to
be irrecoverably loft, but in the dull of the evening^
it was brought to the tents, together with other things
wehad not miffed, by three men, who, as well as fom^
other people prefent, affirmed, that it was by one be-
longing to Maritata, by whom th,e things had been flo-
len J but we concluded both Tee and Oedidee had inten-
tionally deceived us.

On the 9th, Tee came again, aboard to inform us,
that Otoo was at Oparree, and requefted of the cap-
tain to fend a perfon, to let him underfland if he was
ftill his friend. He was aflced why he did not do this
himfelf, as he was defired ; he made a trifling excufe,
but we thought he had not feen Otoo. As the natives
brought not any thing to murket, and a flop was con-
fequcntly put to our trade with them, it was judged*
time ill fpent to fend any more fruitlefs meffages ; a
party therefore fet out, with Tee in our company, and
having reached the utmofl boundaries of Oparree, the
king at laft, made his appearance.

The firft falutations being over, and having taken .

our

^6q Captain Gook*$ gEco|«iD Voyage

plea
has

our feats under the fliade of feme trees, Qtoo dcfircd
^hc captain to fpcak. tje began with blaming the king'
' ifor giving way to grojindlcfs alarms, he having always
profciTed hirafclf his friend, aiid was difpleafed only
with thofc of Tiarabou, y/ho were the thieves. The
captain was then aikcd, how he came to fire at the ca-
noes ? By way of excufe^ he told him they "belonged to
Maritata, one of thofe people had flolcn the raufquet,
and added tlic captain, *' If I had them in my power,"
1 would deftroy them, or any other belonging to the
diflri£l of Tianib )u." We knew this declaration would
)leafc them, from the natural avcrfion the one kingdom
to thq other ; and it was enforced by prefeiits,
which we believe were the llrongeft arguments in favour
of a reconciliation; for after thefe weighty reafons,
things were fooii reftored to the^r former flate, by
0«:oo*s promifihg, on the word of a king, that we
Ihould be fupphcd next day \yith provifions and fruit a.i
ufuah

Peace and aRiity being now once tnorc eftablifhed.
Ve accompanied him to his proper rcfidencc at Opar-
ree, where he obliged us with a view of fbrae of
his dock-yards, where wc faw" feveral large canoe:,
ibme building, and others lately built, fome of which
were the largell we had ever fecn. Having gratified
our curiofity, we repaired on board with Tee in our
company, who, after he had dined with us, went to
acquaint Happi, the king'^ father, that all differences
were brought to a happy conciufion, '

In the afternoon, Otoo himfelf brought \^3 a large
fupply of provifions, and prcfently after, more fruit
was brought us than we knew what to do with; for the
natives, wc believe, thought themfelvcs injui-cd equally
wth ourfclves; and we knew they had every thing
jjeadv fgr our market, when they were permitted to

Routed the Worj.d.

ft6i

t)nng them, Otoo dcfiring to fee fomc of our great
guns fired, his wilh was complied ith, but the fight,
being entirely ne\V, gave him as much pain as plca^
(urc; but in the evening, when we entertained him
with a Ihew of fire-works, he exprciTcd mpch greater
fatisfaifliou.' • ' .- — .

On the nth, a large fupply of frpit came to mar*
kct, and among the reft a prefeut from Tpwha, the
iidmiral ; for which the captain made 4 fuitabic return.
At this time all the ncceflary repairs of the fl^ip being
nearly finilhed, it was refolved to leave Otahci^e in a
few days; to this end every thing was ordered off from
the fliore, that the natives might not fee we uere about
t;o leave. And next day Obcrea whom we had not feen
fmcc 1769, paid us a vifit, bringing with her hogs and
fruit, Otoo alfo came foon after, with a number of
attendants, and a large quantity of provifions. Capr.
Cook wag very generous in his returns of prefents,
and in the cveing entertained them with fire-works,
thinking it might be the laft time we might fee
thcfe friendly people, who had fo liberally relieved our
wants. ' ' '

On the J3th, wc were tiot ready to fail, but the
wind was favourable, and the wejither fair. Ojdidec
was not yet returned from Attahourou, and various re*
ports were circulated concerning him. Some faid he
was at Matavai; others that he intended not to return v. ^
and there were thofe who affirmed he was at Opwree,
"With a view of dilcovering the truth, a party of \xt
repaired to Qparree, >vhere we found him. Towha
was alfo here, who, notwithftanding he was afilifted
with a fmelling in his feet and legs, neverthelcfs, re*
(olved to fee the captain before he failed, and had ad^
vanced with this intent thus far on his journey. The
day beiug fat fpcnr, we were obliged to Ihortcn our
''■'■' ' ftay^j

1k6* Captain Cook's sicond Voyage

ftay, and after having fcen 0:oo, we returned on board
with Oedidee. ^

This youth, we found, was defirous of remaining at
Otaheite ; the captain therefore told him he was at li-
berty to remain there, or to quit us at Ulietea, cr go
■with us to England. That if the latter was his choice,
he muft look upon him as his father, as it was very
probable he would never return to his own country.
Tl\p youth threw his arms about his neck, wept much,
and faid, many of his friends perfuaded him to remain
at Ocahcire. Oedidee was welt beloyed in the Ihip, on
which account every one was perfuading him to go
with us.

On the 14th, early in the morning, Oedidee came
on board, and Mr. Fofter prevailed upon him to go
with us to Ulietea. Towha, Potatou, Oamo, Happi,
Oberea, and many L.yie of our friends paid us a vilit.
The wife of Towha was with him, this chief was
hoifled in, and placed on a chair on the quarter deck.
Among other prefents, v^e gave the admiral an Eng-
lifli pendartr, which, after he had been infi:ru<fli^d in the
ufe of it, pleufed him more than all the reft. The lame
day the king, and Ttc, his prime miniiler, came on
board, and brought with them a hog, and a lurtle of
about fiKiy pounds weight, who, after remaining on
board forae time, took an afl:c(5lionate farewel.

On Sunday the 15th, we put to fea, with a fine breeze
in our favour, and purfued our voyage to the N. W.
and N. W. by W. The fame night we made the iiland
of Huaheine, and anchored in the north entrance of
O'Wharre harbour. Orec, the chief, and feveral of
the natives paid us viilts. Oree, nmong other articles,
brought with him a hog ; and :he next day, Captain
Cook returned Orce's vilir, prcfenting to him fomc red

feathers

R o u N D T H E World*'

feathers , which he held in his hand, and muttered Ovcir
them a prayer. This morning the people began to
bring us fruit. The chief fent us two hogs,- which
were followed by himfelf and friends, who came to
dine with us. Oree afked for axes and nails, which
were readily given him.

After dinner, Mr. Forfler, and a party with him, went
up the country to examine its produdlions ; which he
continued as a daily talk during the fhip's continuance in-
this harbour. As a fervant of Mr. Forfter's was walk-
ing along the fliore, without a companion, he was be-
fet by feveral ftout fellows, who wouU! have ftripped
him, had not fome of our people arrived to his afllft-
ance. One of the men made off with a hatchet. This
day the number of natives that came about the lliip
was lo great, that it v/as found neceffary to place fen-'
tiuals in the gangways, to prevent the men from coming
on board ; but no oppofition was made to the women,
fo that the (hip was crouded with them.

On the 17th, we found Oree, and a great number
of the principal people aflembled in a houfe confult-
ing together. We heard the late robbery mentioned
by them feveral times ; but the chief affured us, nei-
ther himielf nor his friends had any hand in the lame,
and defired Capt. Cook to kill with his guns thofe that
had. Wc could not learn vvherc the robbers were
gone, and therefore, at prefent, took no more notice
of the aifair. In the evening a dramatic entertain-
ment was exhibited. The fubjett of the piece was
that of a girl running away with us from Otaheite.
This was not wholly a fidion, for a girl had taken her
paflage with us from Ulietea, and was at this time pre*-
Cent when her own adventures vere reprefented : (he
could hardly refrain from tears vhile the play wasadl-
iaig J and it was with much difficulty we perfuaded her

m !

»'.'< i
U '

264 Captain Cook's seconi> VoyagA

to (lay out the €nt<5rtainment. At the cbncUifion of
the piece, the girl's return to her friends was repre-
fcnted ; and the reception (he rriet with Was not a fa-
vourable one. It is very probable that this part of the
comedy was defigned to deter others from going away
Ivithus.

On the: 1 8th, king Oree catiie and dined on board,
ftnd the captain, at his dcfire^ ordered the great guns
to be (hotted, and fired into th*; water, by way of a fa-
hue at his arrival and departure : indeed he had by
Oedidee given us to undcrftand, that he expelled the
fame honours to be paid to him, as had been (hewn to
the chiefs of Otaheite.

A party of petty ofHccrs having obtained leaVe to
amufc themfelves in the country, they took with them
forae hatchets, nails, &c. in bags, which were carrieCl
by two natives, who went with them as theii-' guides,
Thefe fellows made off with the trufl: repofed in them,
and artfully enough cTe^ed their efcape* The party
had with them two mufquets ; and after it had rained
fome time, the natives pointed out fome birds for them
to ihoot. One of the guns went off, and the other
miffed fire feveral times. At this inftant, when the fel-
lows fiw themfelves fecure from both, thev took the
opportunity to run away, and not or.e or the party,
being all much furprifed, had prefence of mind enough
to purfue them.

On the if^^h a report was current, that the natives
intended to rife and attack the (hip. The captain,
though he did not think them ferious in fuch an at-
tempt, yet was unwilling totally to difregard the in-
timation : he therefore ordered twenty ftand of arms
to be in readi nefs, in cafe any commotion (hould be
obferved among themj but though the rumour in-

creafcd

treafcc
be per
king c
handec

Round the Wo r l rl.

2^5

treafcd throughout the day, yet no preparations could
be perceived to countenance fuch a repoi-t ; and the
king continued his vifits as ufual, never coming empty
handed. ' -

• ■ ' • ■ ■ " '■■..''. ' • .«■ I ,

On the 2oth, the firfl: and fecond lieutenants, with
one of the mates, being out on a lliooting party, they
were befet by more than fitty of the natives, who firft
took from them their arms, dnd then robbed theni
of what articles they had carried with them to trade. .
In the fcuffle the firfl: lieutenant loft the fkirt of his
coat, and one of the other gentlemen received a feverc .
blow. When the robbers had ftripped them of their
merchandizes, they reftored to them their fowling
pieces. Whjen this tranfadiion came to the knowledge
of Capt. Cook, he went immediately With a boat's crew
on fliore, and entered a lai-ge houfe wherein were two
chiefs. This, with all their effefls he took poffeflioii
of and remained there, till he heard that the gentle-
men had got fafe on boards <^d had all their things re-
fiored to them. Oedidee informed Us, Oree was fo
much affe£l:ed with the relation of this, that he wept
much. When on board, tve learnt from the officers
themfclves, that a fmall infult on their part was the
occafion of the affray ; but fome chiefs interfering,
look the oflRcers out of the croud, and caufed every
thing which had been taken from them to be refloredi

On the 2ifi, we faw iipwards of fixty cjinoesi ^^^
of the people in them being Eareeoies, fleering for Uli-
etea, and we heard they were going to vifit their bre-
thren in the neighbouring iflands. It fecras thefe peo-
ple have cuftoms among them pecuHar to rhemfelves ;
and affift each other when neceflity requires : we may
therefore call them the Free Mafons of Hiiaheine.
This day Oree fcnt a meffage to Capt. Cook, defiring
he would come on iliore, and bring twenty-two men

£^umb. 12. LI with

i li

lis

2^ Captain Cook's SEceND Voyaob

with him, in order to chaftifc the robbers. Oedidee
brought with him twenty-two pieces of leaves to aflift
his memory, a cuftom very common among thefc peo-
ple. This mefTage feemed to be an extraordinary one,
ard therefore the captain went to the chief for better
information. Oree informed him that thefe fellows
were a fct of banditti, who had formed themfelves in-
to a body, and had refolved to rob all they met, for
which purpofe they* were now aflembled and armed.
Thefe robbers Oree wanted us to attack, the Captain
feid they would fly to the mountains ; but he aiFured
us to the contrary, and defired we would deltroy both
them and their habitations, only fparing their canoes.
This requeft feemed extraordinary, but the captain was
refolved to comply with it in parr, left thefc fellows
should make more head, and become formidable ; and
alfo with a view of preventing the report from gaining
ground in Ulietea, where we intended going, and we
were apprchenfive aflbciations might be formed in like
manner, and the people might treat us iu the fame
way, or worfe, they tcing more numerous,

Capt. Co'ok and his officers made ready to accompany
Icing Oree in the expedition againft the robbers ; and
Biaving ordered fifty marines with fome failors to be
well armed, they landed near the place of the king,
and having required him- to conduct them according to
his promife, he very readily confented, and they all fee
out together in very good order. The party increafed
as we proceeded y and Oedrdee told us, that feveral of
the banditti had joined us, with a view of decoying us
into a place, where they might attack us to advantage.
As we could place no confidence in any other perfon^
We took his advice, and proceeded with caution.

We marched feveral miles, when Capt. Cook de-
dared he would proceed no farther j bcfides, we were

informed

Round thb Worid,

9.67

informed that the men had fled to the mountainrs. At
this time we were about to crofs a deep valley, w ith
fteep rocks on each fide, where our retreat might have
]3cen rendered difficult, by «i few men affaulting us with
ftones. Oedidee perfifted in his opinion j and we marcu*.
^d back in the fame order as we came.

As we went along, w^e obferved feveral people com/-
ing down the fides of the hills with clubs, which they
immediately hid when they found we faw them. This
was fome confirmation of Qedidee's fufpiciona ; but we
could not pcrfuade ourfelves that the chief had any
fuch intention, whatever might be the defigns of his
people. In our return we halted in a convenient place,
and wanting fome refrefliment they were immediately
brought us,

When we arrived at the landing place we difcharged'
fcveral volleys, to convince the natives, that we could
fupport a continual firej after which we returned on
board, and the chief dined with us ; having brought
with him a hog ready dreffed. After dinner we re-,
ceived a great number of prefents as peace-offerings,
Tv^o chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, and
fome young plantain, trees, and with due ceremony
prefented them fmgly to .the captain. Another brought
a very hrgc hog, with which he had followed us to the
fliip. A quantity of fruit was brought us by others j
fo that we- were likely to make more by this little ex-
curfion, than by all the prefents we had made them ;
and the expedition had one good eSc^ at Icaft, for the
people were convinced that mufquets were more terri>
blc things than they atfirft imagined.

We were promifed a larger fupply of hogs and fruit
the next day ; but the chief were not fo good as his
Wor.M We went ailiorc In the afternoon, and found

a68 Captain Cook's second Voyaqe

).i i

him fitting down to dinner. The people ahout him
immediately began chewing the pepper root j a cup of
the juice was prefented to Capt. Cook, but he did not
h^ke the method of brewing" it. Oedidee was not fo
nice, and immediately fwallowed what the captain re-
fufed. The chief wafli^d his moiith with cocoa-niu
water after he had taken the juice of the pepper-root^
and ate a large quantity of plantain, repe, and mahee,
and finiftied his dinner by' eating aYid drinking a com-
pofition of plantains, bread-fruit, rtiahee, &c. of the
confidence of a cuftard ; of this he took about three
three pints. He dined in the open air, at the outfide
of his houfe, and during dinner time a play was per-
forming within the houfe, , ,

On the 23d we put to fea. The chief and Captain
Cook took i.n aff.dlionate I'eaye of each other. When
Orec heard tl it we never intended coming there any
more, he faid, Let your fons come, ' ^e 'Vi'ill treat them
well. We did not get a fufficient Aipply of hogs at this
ifland, though they did 'not appear to be fcarce ; but
we obtained more iruit than we well kndw what to do
with. Our (lock in trade being nearly >-yhaufted, we
found it neceifary to fet the fmiths to work, in making
different forts of iron tools, that ati influence tnight
be kept up at the other ifliinds, and to enable us to
procure refrelhments. ,- ,

On the 24th, we anchored in Ulictea, and was vi-
fited by Oreo the chief, who brought with him a h^nd.
foinc prefent. A party of us went a(ho/e to make the
chief a prefeftt, and as we entered his houfe we were
met by five old women, who lanientcd very bitterly,
and cut their faces in a fliocking manner. This was
riot the word part of the flory, for we were Obliged
to fubmit to their aimable embraces, and get ourfclves
covered with blood. After this ceremony was^ over,
' ■ they ■

Round the World.

2$^

they waflied thcmfelves, and appeared as chcarful as
any other perfon. • •

On the 27th, Oreo paid us a vifit, in company with
his wife, fon and daughter, and brought with thein
a very handforae prefent of all kinds of refreftiments.
We accompanied them on fliore after dinner, and were
entertained with a play which concluded with the re-
prefentation of a woman in labour, performed by y. fet
of brawny fellows ; the child that was brought forth
was at leaft fix feet high. As fooh as the child was de-
livered, they preiTed his nofc, which feemed to indi-
cate that they reallj take this piethod with all their
children, wiiich occafions that flatnefs which their no-
fcs generally have.

On the 29th feveral things were flokn out of our
boats, which lay at the buoy ; but on application to
the chief, we had them all returned, except an iron
tiller, and in lieu of that they brought us two large
hogs. Oh the 30th, a party of us fet out for Oedi-
dee's cflate, accompanied by the chief and his family.
When we arrived there, we found that Ocdidee could
not command any thing, though he had promifed us
hogs and fruit in abundance ; they were now in polTef-
iion of his brother. ' We had here an opportunity of
feeing them kill and drefs a pig, which was done in the
following manner : three men firft flrangled th ^ hog ;
the hog was laid on his back, two men laid a flick
acrofs l?is throat, preffing at each end, the third man
(lufFed up his fundament with grafs, and held his hind
legs. The hog was kept in this pofition for ten mi-
nutes, before he was dead. An oven, which was clofc
by, was heated. They laid the hog on the fire as fooa
as he was dead, and finged off his hair ; he was then
carried to the fca-fide and washed. The carcafc was

then laid on clean green leaves, that it might be open-

i ... . , . . g^

lit :

1 ;

Mfp Captain CdoK's ibcokp Voaygb

ed. They firft took out the lard, and laid it on a green
leaf, the entrails were then taken out and carried away
in a ba/ket ; the blood was put into a large leaf. The
hog was then wafticd quite clean, and fevcral hot ftones
were put into his body ; it was then placed in the oven
on his belly, the lard and fat were put into a vtffel,
with two or three hot ftones, and placed along-fide the
hog } the blood was tied up in a leaf, with a hot ftone,
and put into the oven ; they covered the whole with
leaves, on which they placed the remainder of the hot
ilones ; they afterwards threw a great deal of rubbifli
id, and covered the whole with earth. A tabic was
fprfcad with green leaves, while the hog was baking,
which took up little more than two hours. We fat
down at one end of the table, and the natives, who
dined with us, at the other ; the fat and blood were
placed before them, and the hog before us. We thought
the pork exceeding good indeed, and every part of it
■was well done. The natives chiefly dined of the fat and
Wood» and faid it was very good viftuals. The whole
of this cookery was conduced with remarkable clean-
linefs. This eflate of Oedidec was (mail, but very
pieafant ; and the houfes formed a pretty village. Af-
ter we had dined, we returned to the lliip. In our way
we faw four wooden images, each two feet long. They.
flood on a flielf, had a large piece of cloth round the
middle, a turban on their headr, ftuck with cocks
feathers. They told us thefe wer^ their fervants
gods.

On the 4th of June, the chief and his family came
on board to take leave, bringing a handfome prcfent
with them. We were very much importuned to return
to this place ; when we told them we could not, their
grief was bitter, and we believed ir to be real. They
defircd Captain Cook to acquaint them with his burial
place, and (aid they would be buried with him. A

ftrong

Round the World.

itji

(Irong proof of affcftion and attachment. We left
Ocdidec here, as we could not promife that more (hips
would be fent from England to thofe iflands : he left us
with infinite regret. Oedidee c id not leave us till we
were out of the harbour, and ftaid to fire fome guns,
it being his Majefty's birth day. This you;h was of a
gentle, docile, humane dipofition, and would have been
a better fpecimen of the uatives than Qmiah.

T i

1 1

CHAP. VI.

Departure of the Refolutlon from Ulietea— Incidents
at Savage Ifland — ^Paffage from Savage Ifland to Rot-
terdam — ^Tranfa^fcions at this place, and the infolence
of the natives — An account of the people in Turtle
Ifland- — ^Tranfa^ions while here, and ferocious beha-
viour of the inhabitants — ^The Refolution continues
her courfe from Port Sandwich — Steers in a direc-
tion for Sandwich ifland, in order to difcover the
Southern extremity of the Archipelago— Hoftile be-
haviour of lUe natives of Sandwich Ifle— More new
iflands difcovered.

ON the 20th we difcovered land, and the inhabi-
tants appearing upon the fhore 5 we equipped
two boats, and as we approached, the inhabitants re-
tired into the woods. When we landed, we took poft
on a high rock to prevent a furprife, and the botanifmg
party began collcfting plants, with which the country

feemed

2/2

Captain Cook's second VoYAoi

iiti I

wf;

i- .J

feemed covered. Capt. Cook took two men with him
and entered the woods, but on hearing the inhabitants
approach, they returned. We made every friendly
fign in our povver^ but were anfwered by menaces; and
one of the natives threw a flone, which ftruck one of
our party. "iTwo mufquets were fired indifcriniinately,
and they all retreated into the woods.

Having embarked, we .proceeded along the coaft: till
we came to a place were four canoes la). Captain
Cook and only four gentlemen with him went to look
at the canoes. Very foon after the natives rufhed out
of the wood upon us, and we endeavoured to no
purpofe to bring them to a parly ; they threw their
darts, and appeared very ferocious. We difcharged
ibmc mufquets in the air, but this did not intimidate
them, for they ftill threw darts and ftones. Captain
Cook's mufquct miffed fire, otherwife he would cer-
tainly. have killed the ring-leader of them. I'he men
drawn upon the rock fired at fome who appeared on
the heights, which allayed the ardour of our antago-
nifts, and we had an opportunity to join the marines.
We do not think any of the natives were hurt, but
they all retreated into the woods ; and feeing we could
make nothing of them, returned to the fliip.

Capt. Cook named this place Savage Ifland, from the
conduft and afpeft of the iflandersj its fituation is
fouth latitude 19 deg. i min. weft longitude, 169 deg.
37 min. its form is circular, and is about 1 1 leagues in
circumference. The country appears entirely covered
with trees and flirubs. Nothing but coral rocks were
to be feen along the fhore.

We fteeredfor Rotterdam, and as we drew near it,
fcveral canoes laden with fruit came along-fide of us,
but we did not ihortcn fail. The people on. board

them

ouND THE World.

2?3

them wanted us much to go towards their coaft, tcHing
us, as well as they were iible, we might fafely anchor
there. We came to anchor on the north-fide of the
iltand on the a')th. The inhabitants brought us great
quantities of yams and haddocks, for which we gave
them old rags and nails. We got a plentiful fupply of
fruit and water, but it viras rather birackifli. Happen-
ing to leave the furgeon on (hore, he got a canoe to
bring him offj bat juft as he was getting into it, one of
the natives fnatched away his mufquetand ran oiFwith
it, after which no perfon would bring hint on board,
irie certainly would have been dripped, had he not
prefented a tooth-pick cafe to theiii, which they took
for a little gun. Capt. Cook hearing of this tranfaftion,
went on flibrci but the natives fled at his approach.
A boat was fent afhore on the 28th for Tome water,
when the people behaved in a rude and daring manner:
it was with diificulty they got their water-calks filled,
and into the boats again. The lieutenant who com-
manded this party had his gun fnatched from him, and
mod of the people had fomething or other taken away
from them. This was the efFeS of ill timed lenity.
Capt Gook lani'i<rd foon after, and i-efolved to have the
gun reflorcd. All the marines were ordered aftiore
armed; As the botanifing pany were in the country,
three guns were fired from the Ihip to alarm them, as
we did not know how the native: night behave to them.
The natives knew well enough waat we intended, and
brought the raufquet long before the marines got
alhore.-

An old woman prefented a young girl to Capt. Cook^'
giving him to underdand that (he was at his fervice^
The girl was artful enough, and wanted to bargain fqr
a ihirt and a fpike nail, heithef of which the captain
had with him. He was then told that he might retire
tyith her uj»ott cred't, vhich he rcfufed. The o\d

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274 Captain Cook's second Voyaoi

procurers then abufed him, faying he was infenfible to
hef charms ; the girl was very pretty, and wanted to
go aboard the (hip with the captain ; but he would not
take her, as he had given orders no women (hould be
admitted there.

On the 29th we failed, and a great many ca: es
•came up with us, laded with fruit, &c. which were
exchanged for the ufual commodities. The paffion of
our people for curiofities was as great as ever, and
they were ftripped of moft of the clothes the ladies of
"Otahcite had left them. We ftretched out for Aroat-
tafoa on the 30th, and feveral canoes came to us from
aU parts with the common articles; out of one of them
we got two pigs, which in this part of the world are a
fcarce commodity.

On the I ft of July we difcovered land, the matter
and the boat were fent into the found to £nd anchorage;
four or five people were difcovered on the Ihore, who
retreated as the boat advanced, and they all fled to the
woods when the boat landed. The mafter returned,
an i brought word there was no foundings without the
reef. This ifland is fituated S. latitude, 19 deg. 4S
min. W. longitude, 178 deg. 2 min. "We called it
Turtle Ifland.

After a good deal of ftormy weather, we faw an
ifland, called by the natives Ambry m, on the 21ft of
July. We difcovered a creek as we drew nearer the
fliore, which had the appearance of a gcod harbour ;
many people were alTembled, who invited us on fliore,
but we did qot chufe to go, as they were armed with
bows and arrows. We fent out two armed boats to
difcover a port about a league more to the fouth, where
we anchored in 11 fathoms water. Several of the na-
tives came off to us, but a£ted with great caution ;

RouKDTHB World.

275

^t laft they trufted themfelves along- fide, and exdiangedl
arrows for pieces of cloth. Prcfents were made to two
men who ventured on board, and others came at night
for the fame purpofe, but they were not admitted.

On the 22nd in the morr.in^; we landed, in the fac«
of 500 men, armed with bov^s, arrows, fpears, and
flubs, bitt they made no oppofition. Capt. Couk ad*
yanped alone, with noth'^ng but a green branch in his
hand} on feeing this, a perfon who feemed to be a
chief^ gave his l^w and arrows to another, and came
to meet him in the water, took the captain by the
hand, and |ed hini up to the crowd. The marines
were at this ttji^e drawn qp on the beach. Capt. Cook
diflributed fever?^l presents ^mong them. We made
figns that we wanted wood, and in return they made
figns for us to cut down the trees. They brought a
pig for a peace ofi[ering, and we flattered ourfelves
with the hope% of pxocurlngmo^e, but tl\ele were vain
and delufive ; for we only got a fmall quantity of wa-,
ter, and about half a do2;jjn cocoarnuts, They parted
freely wi^h their arrows, biU W€ could no.t purchafeof
them any bows without a gieast deal cf difficulty^.
They called this ifland MalUcplaej another^ near it Apec^
and a third Paopn,

Continuing our courfe from hence on the 24th, we*
difcovered feveral fmall iflands^ one. o€ which we-
came very near. It is about X2< miles in circumference,,
and has three high peaked hills, upon . it. W.e,: thea>
palled a group of fmall iflands, which we called jhe
Shepherd's Ifles, and difcerned people. iix every, one /)£^
thefe iflands i but there were no foundings, nea^.thenij^
at 180 fathoms. We found the fouthern lands to. .con*^
flft of one large ifland,.the extremities of which we..
could not fee. On the north iide of this e^ctenfive
in^nd we faw three or four fmdiler ones. One of thef^

af^T Captain Cook's seconi> VqyAge

T^e called Montague, another Hnchinbtoo'^y ^ncJ th^
largeflrSandwich iffland. Several peopje Came down a?
we pafled Montague iljand,- and fcenled to ioyjie us in
a frieftdty rrianner on Ihore/ As we could not ^ppr6a<;h
it at this time, we fleered more to the weft, as there ap-
peared a bay to run up in that quarter, >nd,Jk good
Ihelter from the winds. But as this was not fo nfiuch
pur objeif to difco'ver.the fouthfrn extremity of th(^
Archipelago, we fleered E. S. E. which \va& me direc-
tion of Sandwich ifland./. .

On the ill of Auguft, we gained the N. W- fide of
the iflantl^'and faw (etreral inhabjtaQts^' -Aho invited ua
a(horfe by' yarious figns. Here we fhoiitd have anchored,
but the wind obliged us to alter our 4cfign.' Befidcs,'
iVfc 'anted to e^p'ore the land to the S. E; therefore
yanged ^long the coftft. As we contiivued bur couife,
we law a liglit a head j and it being near evening* did
notchufe to proceed any farther, but ftood o^ aftd qu
all night. ' . ■ . . :".

Oh the ^d, We ffent a bod^t on (horfe to get fome
w6od if poffiBle, being itiuch in want of that article ;
but our people could not lani^ on accbunt of a high furf
of thefea; and they fa w not any natives on that part
of the ifle. Having anchored' ill 17 fathoms water,
under the N. AV. fide bf the head of the land, we faV
fevcr^l j)fcopfe on the fliohc. Tome endeavoliring to
fwim of to us J biitthey all retired when they perceived
pur bostt appi^oac^ towards thtm.

On the 14th, a party \^entout armed ti>.,*find a pro*
per landing-place, and where we rnight gain a fupply
pf wood and *tater. 'We gave tite inhabitants fomi
rtiedals, &c. with Which the^ appeared much pleiifed,.
snd dirtd^ed liis to a bay fit for bur purpofe. As we
^cnt along the Ihorc, their numbers iricrcafcd piodigi-

R,OUNP THE WORLD^

271

jfjudy. We tried feveral places to land, but did not
approve of their fituation. , i^t length we canne to a
tine fandy beach, where Capt. Coolt ftepped out with-*
out wetting hia. foot. The inhabitants received him
with great politenefs. One o^ theni, who appeared to
hi a chief, liiade the natives form a femicircle round tlie
head of the boat, and chaftifed fuch as attenipted to
prevent it. Their behaviour was in every rerpe<5l a-
greeabie, yet wc did not much lik« their appearance,
iisthey were all arnjed with bows, ajrrows, fpcars, and
(larts. On this account we kept a good look, out, and
watched particulirly the motions ot the chief, who
wanted us to haql the boat on fliore. He renewed his
figns for tliij to be done, jfnd then held a conference
with fome of the natives..' One cjrcumftance appeared
rather fufpieious, he refufed fomc (pike nails that we
qliered him. Capt. Cook innmedia^cly returned to ^ha
boat, upon which they attempted by force ^o .detain us.
Very fortunately the gang-board happened to be laid out
fpr the captain to return into the boat j this fome of the
natives unhooked from the ftern as jvc were putting off;:
they hooked it to the head of the boat, and attempted
to haul her on (hore. Some of them were daring
enough to take the oj^rs out of the hands of our peo-
ple. They in fome meafure delifted, on Capt Cook's
prefenting a mufquet, bi]t went on again in an inftant,
feemingly determined to haul the boat on (ho re, and
to detain us. The chitf was at the head of this party,
and others ^ood at a fmall diftance behind, with (tones,
darts^ and other miOike weapons, ready to fupporc
them.*^ Our own fafcty was now become our only con^
^deration, for figns and threats had not the cfFe^ wc
cxpeded. The captain therefore refolvcd to make the
chief fufFer alone, a viftim to his own treachery.; but;
at this critical moment his piece did not go off. This
increafed their infolcnce, and they began to afTauk us
with ftonc«, darts and arrows. We were now ordered

^■■\ ' ' ' - ' - . ■ ' XQ

I>78 Captain Cook's second Voyaqb

to fire. The firft difehargc threw them into confufion
but- they were very rcljiftantly driven off the beach
with the fecondf After thjs they continued a kind of
Jbufli-fighting, by throwing ftones , from bejiind trees
and fomctimes a dart or two, Fouj: oi thepii lay to all
appearance dead on the ihorc, but two of them after-
wards crawled in among the bulhes* X^^t they might
.underftand the cffeft pf our great guns, we fir^^ a Tour-
pound ihot at them, which, though it fell fiiort, terri-
fied them fo much, that we faw no more of them.

On the 5th of Anguft we weighed anchor, and got
clear of the bay, and (leered for the fouth end of the
ifland. We difcovered on the S. W. fide of the head,
a pretty deep bay ; its fhorcs low, and the land ap-
peared to be fertile, but being expofcd to the , S. E.
■winds, until better known, we thought the N, W. fide
jprefcriiibie. ' ',

At fun-fct we came In fight of an ifland, being high
table land, being E. by S. and alfo difcovered another
littl&iile, which we had paffcd in the night. We now
fleered for the ifland, and difcovered a fmail inlet which
had the appearance of a good harbour. Two armed
}>oats, under the command of Lieut. Cooper, were
fcnt off in order to found, while the Ihip flood on and
off, to be ready to follow, or to afford any affiflance*
that i^ight be required. We obferved a number of na*
lives on the fhorc, alfo feveral canoes; and when our
boats entered the harbour they launched fome, but
came not near. At this time the Lieutenant made fig-
nal for anchorage, and we flood in with the fhip.
The wind having left us when we were within the en-
trance.

The boats were now ifent out to find a better '}r-
choragc i *ia4 while wc were thus employed, xnao)t oi

Round the "WoKLth

27#

the natives came in pr rtics to the fea-fide dll armed,
fome fwam off to us, others came in canoes. At firft
they feemed afraid of us, and, kept at a diftancc, but
by degrees waxed bplder, and at length came under
our ftern, and made ibmc exchanges. Thofc in one of
the firfl canoes threw towards us fome cocoa-huts.
The captain went out in a boat, picked them up, and
in return gave them feveral articles. Others were in-
duced by this to come along-fide who oehaved in a
moll infolent manner. They attempted to tear our flag
from the ftaff, would have knocked the rings from the
rudder, and we had no fooner thrown out the buoys of
the boats than they got hold of them. We fired a few
mufquets in the air, of which they took no notice, but
a four pounder alarmed them fo much, that they quit-
ted their canoes, and took to the water. But finding
themfelves unhurt, they got again into their. canoes,
flourifhed their weapons, hallooed in defiance, and went
again to the buoys, but a few mufquetoon Ihot foon
difperfcd them. They all retired in hafte to the (hore,
and we f*t down to dinner unmolcfted. In the inter-
val of thofe tranfaiSltons, an old man, who feemed to be
amicably difpofed, came feveral times, in a fmall canoe
between us and the (hore, bringing off each time cocoa-
nuts and yams, for which he took in exchange whatever
we offered him. Another was in the gangway when the
great gun was fired, after which we could not prevail
with him to ftay. In the evening we landed at the head
of the harbour, with a party of men well armed. The
natives made not the lead oppofition, though we had
one body on our right, and another on our left, all
armed. We diftributed among the old pedple lome
prefents of cloth and medals, and filled two csifks with
frelh water. We got in return plenty of cocoa-nuts,
but could not prevail on them to part with their wea-
pons, which they held conflantlv in a pofture of de-
fence. The old ma^ was one ot thefe parties, but by

his

mmm

6^6 Captain Cook's s£coNi> VovAoi

his behaviour we judged liim to be pacific. We thought
. by their prcffing fo much, in fpite of all their endea-
vours to keep them at a diftance, that little wouid be
'" wanting to induce them to attack us ; but we re-embark-
cd V€ry Ibon, and thus, probably, their fcheme was
•difeoncerted.

On the 6fli we brought the fliip as near the landings
place as poffible, that we might overawe the natives,
and cover the party on fliore, who were to get a fup-
ply of wood and water, which we much wanted.
While we were upon this bufinefs, we obferved the niv-
fives affembliiig from all parts, all armed, to the amount
of fome thoufands, v(rho formed themfelvcs into two
■diviiions, as they did the preceding evening, on e:ich
fide the landing place. At intervals a canoe came oiii
at times conduced by one, two or three mcn,^ bringing
us t:ocoa*nuts, &c. for which they did iiot require any
thing in return,' though we took care they ftiould always
'have fomcthing: but their principal intention feemed
to be, to invite us afliore. The old tnan before men-
tioned, came off to us fcveral times, a«d the captain
with a view of making him underftand,„that he wanted
to cftablifh a friendly intercourfe, took his weapons
that were in the canoe^ and threw them overboard, and
made him a prcfent of a piece of cloth. He under-
ftood the meaning of this, for we faw him frequently
in converfation with his countrymen^ to whom he
made our requeft known, going firft to one party, then
to another, nor did we afterwards fee him with his
weapons, or. in a warlike manner. Soon aker a canoe,
in which were three men, came under our ftern^ one of
whom b<rhaved very outragcoufly, brandifhing his club,
and ftriking with it the (hip's fide; at laft he offered
to exchange his weapon for a firing of beads, and other
-trifles i thefc we fent down to him by a line, of which he
•had no fooner got pe^clfion, than he made off,- with-

oat

iiouND THE World.

i8<

but deliyering his club. We were not forry for this^
as it afforded us an opportunity of (hewing the people
on fliore the efFtdls of our fire-arms. We therefore
without hefitation, complimented rh's fellow witli the
contents of a fowling piece^ loaded with fmall fhot^
and when the others were out of the reach of mufquet
(hot, we fired fome mufquetoons, or wall pieces at
them,^ which made them take to the water. But all
this feemed to make very little imprejQTion on tlie people
aihore, whp t>egan to halloo, and feemingly made a joke
of it. Having mobred the Ihip^ with her btoad-fide to
the landing-place,' and fcarcely mufquet-fliot off, we
planted our artillery in fuch a manner as to command
the whole harbour, and then embarked with a party
of feameri, fupportcd by the marines, and rowed to
the landing-place, where the natives were drawn up
in two divifions. The intermediate fpace between theiri
was about 40 yards, in which were laid a fCw. plantains,
three roots, and a yami We made figns for the divi-
jlons to retire back, but to the thefe they paid not
the lead regard, their number every moment was aug-
mented, and, except three old men, not one unarmed^
VVc thought it better to. frighten them into a more
peaceable behaViour, aiid therefore a mufquet was fired
ovei* their heads, which for a minute had the defired
effwft, but they foon returned to their daring behavi-
our. The ihip was then ordered, by fighal, to fire a
few great guns, which prefently difperfed them. We:
landedi and' cut down fome trees j >yhich we put into
our boats, and a few fmafl calks of Water, to let the
Hiative* fee what we chiefly Wanted. Thus far matter*
were pretty well fettled: we returned on board to din-
ner, and they alt difpcrfed* •

On the 7th, the natives began to affemble again';
with their weapons, as befbrc, but not in fuch num-
bers: notwithflanding this, we landed in order to ged

lia Captain Cook's second Voyaos

water, and cut wood. We found moft of the old peo.
pie difpofcd to be our friends, but the younger being
daring and infolent, obliged us to (land to our arms ;
"but as foon as our people had filled their boats with
wood and water, and embarked on board, they all re-
tired in a peaceable manner.

On the 1 3th, an old man came on board, (whofe
name was Paowang) to dine with us. We took this
Opportunity of (hewing him every part of the ftiip, and
a variety of trading articles, hoping he might fee
fomething that he liked, and fo a traffic be carried on
with the natives for refre(hments. But Paowang ob-
fcrved every thing with indifference, except a fand-
bo?c, of which he took fome notice, and immediately
Went aihore.

On the i5th, preparations were made on board to

"fet fail. This day one of the botanical party fhot a

ipigeon, in the craw of which was a nutmeg. Mr.

Forter endeavoured, without fuccefs to find the tree.

^During their flay on fhorc, they obfcrvcd in mofl of

their lugar plantations deep holes dug, four feet deep,

and five in diameter, which on enquiry, we found were

defigned as traps to catch rats in. Thefe animals, fo

dfcftruftrvc to fugar canes, are here in great plenty.

Round the edge of thefe pits, as a decoy, and that the

rats may be more liable to tumble in, the canes arc

^planted as thick as poffible.

On the 16th, we found our tiller much damaged,
and by negleft, we had not a fpaire one aboard. We
knew of but one tree in* the neighbourhood that would
do for our purpofe. The carpenter was fent afhore to
•examine it, and upon his report a party of men were
direfted to cut it down, after the confent of the na-
'tlves had jbeen obtained. They ^id not make the lead

objeftioD,

ROUHD THE Wo R h D.

48j,

objc^Won, and our men went inftantly to work. Mucl\
time was ncccflary to cut it down, as the tree was^
large} and before they, had finifticd their work, word,
was brought to the Captain, that our friend Paowang
was not pleafed. Paowang wafi fent for, and our ne-
celTity explained to him. Wc then made him a prefent
of a piece of cloth and a dog, which readily obtained
his confent, and the voices of thofe that were with
him in our favour.

Having thus obtained our point, we conduced our
friend on bioard to dinner ; after which wc went with
him afljorc, to pay ^ vifit to an old chief, who was
faid to be the king of the iQand ; though as Paowang
took little notice of him, we doubted the fa^. His
pamc was Geogy.. He hajd 9 cbearful open counte-
nance, tho' he >yas old, and had rou^d his waift a
broad red and white chequered belt.. His fon was.
with him, who could not be lefs than 50 years old.
At this time a yaft concourfe of people w,ere affembled
near the watering-place. The behaviour of many wasi
friendly ; of others daring apd infolent; which we did
not think prudent to re^nt, a^ our flay was nearly at;
an end , ,

On the ifjth, we prepared for failing,, as the tiHer
was finifhcd j but the wind being uniavourable, the
guard and a party of men were fcnt alhore, to bring,
off the remainder of the tree from which, vy^e had cut
the tiller. The Captain went witlji, them, and found a
nuniiberof the natives collcfted together near, the land-
ing-place, among whom various articles were diftribu-.
led. At the time our people were getting fome large
logs into the boat, the centry prefented his piece at
one of the natives, and, without the lead apparent
qaufe £red at, and killed hun. A few of the iiatives
had juH before adv^auccd within the limits, to fee what

>■,

1^84 Captaih Cook's scconD Voyacib

. wc were about, but upon being ordered back, they
readily obeyed. A fellow of the ccntry pretended,
tjiat a man had laid his arrow acrofs his bow, fo thiit
he apprehended Jiimfelf in danger j but this had been
frequently done out of a bravado, to (hiew they were
armed, and prepared equally with ourfelves* ' Gapt.
Cook was highly cxafperated at this rafcal*s rafli con.
d'uft; and mbft of the people ilLd with the utmoft pre-
cipitation. The natives were thrown into fuch'con-
fternation, that the]|r brought abundance of fruit,
which they laid down at pUr faci. They all retired
wheii we returned aboard to dinner, and only' a few
appeared in the afternoon, among whom were Paowang

and Wha-a-gou. . .

On the 2oth, the wind wa^ favourable for getting
out of ' harbour, we began to" unmoor, and having
weighed, put to fca. The'Refolutlon being thb firfl:

^ fhip that evdr entered this harbour, Chpt. Cook named
it Port Refolution. ^ "Its lat. is 19 deg. 3^ min. 25 fee.
imd half fouth,' and in 169 deg.^ 44 min; 35 fee. eaft
long. The landing* plate Is exceeding convenient for
taking in wood and water, both of thefe necefTary ar-
ticled being' ixcit theiliore. Qn the 23d, we came in
fight of MallicoiJo. 'We were agreeably fuifprifed
with the beauty of the foreft, from whence we faw
fraoke afc^nd in various places', i plain iiidication of
their being inhabited j the circumjacent land appeared
fertile ahd populous, ' We bbftrved droop's of natives
on fevers^ parts of the fliorc, and two canoes put off
io us, but as we did not fliorten fail, they did npt over^
take the fhip. ^ " " . • -

.. 1.

On the 24th, we advanced nearly to the middle of
the paflage, and the N. W. end of Mallicollo ex-
tended from S. 30 deg. E. to S. 58 deg. We now
ftected N. by E. then N. along the eaft coaft of the
porthcrn land. At firft this coaft appeared continued;
•"' '■•■ " "■ '"' ' " ' ' " but

w -*

Round the Worlb.

iBs

die of
o cx-

now
of the
Qued;

but

but we found it was compofcd of feveral lov^ woody
illes, mod of them ot fmall extent, except the fomhcr-
moft, which was named St. Bartholomew. We conti-
nued our courfe N. N. W. along a fine coaft covered
with trees. On the 25th, at day-break, we were on
tlie north fide of the iiland, and ftecred W. along the
low land under it, for the bluff-head j beyond, which at
iim-rife, we favy an eleVated coaft, ftretching to the N.
as far as N. W. by W. Having doubled the head, we
perceived the land to trend S. a little eafterly, and to
form a large deep bay, bounded on the W. by the a-
bovementioned coaft. At half paft four o'clock P. M.
we were only two miles from the W, fliore, to "liich
we had been drove by a N. E. fwell. Here v/e faw
iarge bodies of the natives collefted together. Some
ventured off in canoes; but they took fudden frighi at
fomeihing, nor could all our fi^ns of friendftiip induce
them to com*; along-fide.

On the 26th, we were about eight miles from ihe
head of the bay, that is terminated by a low beach ;
behind which is an extenfiyc flat covered with wood,
jlnd bounded on each fide by a ridge of mountains.
We fouhd our lat. at noon to be 15 deg. 5 min. S. and
and a one o-clock, having a breeze at N. by W. we
fteered up to within two miles of the head of ihe bay.
Mr. Coojper and Mr. Gilbert were fent out to reconnoi-
tre, while we flood off and on with the Ihip. By this,
time, and opportunity were afforded for three failing
canoes ib come up, which had been following us.
They would not come along-fide, but advanced nt:ar
enough to receive fuch things as were thrown out ta
them, fattened to a rope. On the return of the boats
^e were informed by Mr. Cooper and others, that they
had landed at the head of the bay, near a fine ftream
of frefli watfer. We fteered down the bay, being not
in want of any things and the wind having ^lifted tp

«3> tS* £•»

2M Captain Coox's sbcond Voyage

S. S. E. Throughout the forepart of the night, on the
wcft-lide of the (hore, the country was illuminated
with fires, frrjtn the fea-fliore to the fummit of the
mountains^

On Saturday the a7th, at day-break, we found our-
felvcs two thirds down the bay, and at noon we were
the length of the N. W. point, which bore N. 82 dcg.
W. dillant five miles ; and by obfervation our latitude
was 14 deg. 39 min. 30 fee. Sonie of our gentlemen
were doubtful of this being the bay of St. Philip and
St. Jago, becaufe no place anfweredto the port of Vera
' Cruz i but the captain gave very good reafons for a
contrary opinion. A point is a very vague term, like
many others in geography ; and what C^uiros calls the
port of Vera Cruz, might be the whole haven or har-
bour, or the anchorage at the head of the bay, which
in fome places may extend farther off than where our
boats landed. The river was probably one of thofe
mentioned by Quiros, and, if we were not deceived,
we faw the other.

' ■'*':*

The bay is every where free from danger, and of an
unfathomable depth, except near the fhorcs, which are
for the moft part low. It hath fixty miles fea, coaft ;
eighteen on each fide, which lies in the direction of S.
lialf W. and N. half E. fix at the head ; and thirty-fix
on the weft fide, the diredlions of which is S. by E, and
N. by W. from the head 4own to two-thirds of its
length, and then N. W. by N. to the N. W. point.
The two points which form tne entrance of the bay,
tre in the dire£lion of S, 53 deg. E. and N. 53 deg.
W. diftant from each other thirty miles. The bay, as
well as the fiat land at the head of it, is bounded by a
ridge of hills : one to the weft is very high, and ex-
tends the whole lergth of the ifland. Upon this ap^
pcared a luxurient vegetation wherever tlic eye turned.
... , . ■ ' ' "" Rich

Round the Worjld.

ift;

Rich plantations adorned the fides of the hills, forefts
reared their towering heads j and every valley was wa-
tered with a running ftrcam ; but of all the produc-
tions of nature the cocoa-nut trees were the moft con-
fpicuous.

On the 28th and 29th, we took every opportunity
when the horizon was clear, to look out for more land,
but none was (een; it is probable there is none nearer
than Queen Charlotte's Sound. But qa the 30th, we
plyed up the coafl with a fjrelh breeze.

On the 31ft, we weathered the S. W. point of the
ifland. The coaft which trends eaft, northerly, is low,
and feemed to form fome creeks or coves ; and as we
got farther into the paflage, we perceived fome Ipw
ides lying along it, which feemed to extend behind St.
Bartholomew's Jfland. Having now explored the whole
Archipelago, the feafon of the year made it neceflary
to return to the fouth j but we had yet fome time left
to make obferyations on any land we might difcover
between this and New Zealand; at which place the
captain intended to touch, in order to recruit our ftoclc
of wood and water, for another fouthern courfe. Tq
this end, at five o'clock P. M. we tacked, and hauled to
the fouthward, with a frelh gale at S. E. At this
time the S. W. point of the ifland Tierra del Efpiritu
Santo, bore north 821 deg. W. which Capt. Cook named
Cape Li(burne. It lies inlat. 15 deg. 40 inin. and in'
165 deg. 5^ min. E. long.

CH AF.

28S( Captain CaoK*s sicoND Voyac?£

jf il

G H A P. VII.

New daledohiai difcovcred- — ^The Refolutioh is obliged

- to depart from Caledonia — Continues hec voyage td

New Zealand — She arrives at Queen Charlotte's

Sound — An account of incidents while the fliip lay

there.

ON the I ft ot Sept. we were out of fight oi lancf,
and no more v as to be fcen. We continued our
courfc to the S. W. and on the 3d, found ourfclves in
19 deg. 49 min. and in 16$ deg. E. long. On the 4th
we dilcovered laind, which at noon extended from S.S.E.
to W. by S. diftant fix leagues. At five P. M. we were
fi3i leagues off^ when we were flopped by a cailm. At
this time the land extended from S. £. by S. to W*.
by N. found by the S. W. but as fome openings were
fcen in tfie W. could riot determine whether it was one
connecJled land, or a; clufter of iflands.

On the 5th, we obferved tlie coaft extended *o the
S. E. of Cape Colnet, and round by the S. W. to N W.
by W. We bore down to N. W. and caniie before an
opening that had the appearance of a g6od channel.
We dtlircd to enter it, in order to have an opportunity
of obferving an eclipfe of the fun. We therefore fent
out two armed boats to found the channel j and at the
lUme time faw 12 large failing canoes near us. All the
morning we had obferved them in motion, and coming
off from different partsj but fome were lying on the

reef,

Round the World.

1289

reef, fifliing as we imagined. When we hoifted out
our boat they were pretty near usj but upon feeing
this, they returned, and our boats followed them*
We now were convinced that what we had taken for
openings in the coaft was low land, all connefted, ex-
cept the weftern extremity, which, as we afterwards
learnt, Was an ifland, called Balabea. The boats hav-
ing made a fignal for a channel, we flood in with the
iliip. The officer of the boats reported, that there
wa§ good anchprage, and the natives civil and obliging*
We proceeded up the bay, and at length anchored in
five fathoms water*

A gf eat number of the natives furrounded us before
we got to anchor, in 18 canoes, without any fort of
Weapons, and we prevailed uj)on one boat to come near
enough to receive fome prclehts. In return, they tied
two fi(h to the rope, <liat ftunk intolerably. An inter-
courfe being thus opened by mutual exchanges, two of
the natives ventured on board the fliip, prefently after
ftie was filled with them. Some dined with us, but they
would not car fait beef, pork, and peas foup.

AHer dinner time, a party of us went alhore with
armed boats, and landed amidft a great number ot peo-
ple. They exprefled a natural furprize at feeing men
and things fo new to them as we were. Prefcnts were
made to fuch, as a man, who had attached himfelf to
Capt. Cook, pointed out ; but he would not fuffer the
captain to give the women who flood behind, any beads
or medals. Having by figns enquired for frefh water,
fome pointed to the eafl, others to the wefl; but our
friend undertook to condud us to it, and for that pur-
pofe embarked with us. We rowed near three miles to.
the E. and entered a narrow creek or river, which
brought us to a little llraggling village, where he fhew-
cd us frefli water.

Numb. 13 Oo The

2^Q Captain Cook's second Voyage

The tide nor permitting us to ftay any longer in the
creek, we took leave of thcfe amicable people, from
whom we had- nothing to cxpeft but good nature, and
the privilege of vifiting their country without molefta-
tion, as it was eafy to fee thefe were all they could be-
flow. Though this did not fatisfy our demands, it
gave us much eafe and fatisfadlion, for they certainly
excelled all the natives we had hitherto met with in
friendly civility*

tDn the 12th, early in the morning, the captain be-
ing defirous of flocking the country with hogs as well
as dogs, betook with him a young boar and fow, and
went up the creek, in fearch of his friend, the chief, in
order to give; them to him. The natives informed us
ihzi he lived at fomc diftancc, but they would fend for
him : but he not coming as foon as we expefted, Capt.
Cook refolved to give them to the firft manofcon-
(equence he met with. In confequence of this deter-
mination^ they were offered to a grave old man, who
ftiook his head, and made figns for us to take them into
the boat again. Our refufmg to comply, they fccmed
to hold a confultation what was to be done.

After this, our guide conduced us to the chief, and
he accordingly led us to a houfe, where eight or ten
middle aged perfons were feated in a circle. To thefe
the captain and his pigs were formally introduced.
They defired the captain with great courtefy to be feat-
ed, who began to expatiate on the merits of his pigs,
explaining to them their nature and cafe, and how they
would multiply : in fhort, he enhanced their value as
much as poffible, that they might take the more care
of them. In return for our prefent, we had fix yams
brought us, after which returned on board. In the
afternoom we made a trip to the fliore, and on a tree
near the watering-place, an infcription was cut, fetting

*" I .forth

Round the World.

%gr

forth the ftiips name, date, &g. as a memorial and
proof that' we were the firfl difcoverers of that
country.

Having now fully fatisficd our curiofity, we returned
on board, when the captain ordered all the boats to be
hoifted in, that we might be ready to fail* and put to
fea.

The inhabitants of this country are ftrong, robuft,
aftive, friendly, courteous, and not addifted to pil-
fering, as all other nations are in this fca. They have
in general good features j but in fome we faw a refem-
blancc of the negroes; having thick lips, flat nofes,
and full checks. Their hair and beards are black.
The former is very rough and frizzled. Some have
their hair tied up in clubs, and others, as well lis the
women, wear it cropped ikort. They alfo wear tiieir
beards cropped in the fame mamicr. The women in
this ifland are very chafte, and we never heard that any
of our people ever obtained the Icaft favour from any
one of them. Indeed their ladies would fometimes di-
vert themfelves by going a little afide with our gentle-
men, as if they meant to be kind, and tl\e^ would in ^
moment ran away laughing at them^

Qn the 13th of Sept. at 'fun-rife, we weighed, and
flood off for the channel we came in by. At half paft
feven we were in the middle of it, when the iflc of
Balabea bore W. N. W.. At noon we loft fight of Ba-
labea, and at three o'clock, we run by a low fandy ifle.
At fun-fit, we could juft fee the land, which bore S.
W. by S. about ten leagues diftant. No land was to be
feen in this direftion j fo that every appearance flat-
tered our expeftations, and induced us to believe, that
we fhould foon get round the ihoids.

JI92 Captain Cook's second Voyage

On the 15th, feeing neither land nor breakers, wc
bore away W. N. W. but the flioals ftill continuing, we
plied up for a clear fea to the S. E. by doing which.
we did but jufl weather the point of the reef we had
pafled the preceding evening. To render our fituation
the more dangerous, the wind began to fail us j in the
afternoon it fell a calm ; and we wt re left to the mercy
of a great fwell, fetting dire<5Hy for the reef, whicl^
was not more than a league from us. The pirAace and
cutter were hoified out to tow the (hip, but they were
of little fervice. At feven o'clock, a light air at N.N.E,
Jccpt her head to the fea ; and on the i6th, at eleven
o'clock A. M. we hoifted in the boats, and made fail to
fhe S. F. A tide or current had been in our favour
all night, and was the caufe of our getting fo unex'
pcftedly clear of the flioals.

Qn the 20th, at noon, Cape Colnet bore a.<7, 78 c|eg.
W. dillant fix leagues. From hence the land extended
youiid by the S. to E. S. E. till it was loft in the hori-
zon, and the country appeared vajiegated with many
liills and valleys. We flood in fliore till fun-fet, when
we were about three leagues off. Two fmall iflots lay
diftant from us five miles, and others lay between us
and the ihore. Tphc country was very mountainous,
and bad much the fame afpe£i as about Balade.

On Fridjiy the 30th. at three o'clock P. M. it fell
<calm, the fwell, amfted by the current, fet us fafl;
towards the breakers, which were yet in fight to the,
j5. W. but at ten o'clock a breeze fpringing up,
we ftccred E. S. E. not venturing farther fouth till day-
light.

On the ift ot 0£iober, wc had a very ftyong wind at
S. S. TV. attended by a great fea, fo that we had rcafoii
to rejoice at having got clear of the flioais before this

. • galQ

Round the Would.

*93

gale overtook us. We were now obliged to ftretch to
S. E. and at noon were out of fight of land.

On the 2ii, we had little wind, and a gridt fwcU ; but
at eleven, a frefh breeze fpringing up, we flood to the
S. We were now in the lat. of 33 deg. |8 min. and in
J 69 deg. 49 mhi. E. lon^.

On the 3d, we had a ftrong gale, with fqnalls from
the S. W. and the captain laid afide all thoughts of re-
turning to the land we had left. Nor could fuch an at-
tempt be thouglu at prudent one, when we confider, that
we had a vail ocean yet to explore to the fouth ; that
the (hip wap already in want of necc(Iary (lores j that
fummer was approaching very faft, and that any conli-
derable accident might detain i)s from purfiiing the
great objedl of this voyage another year. Thus necefli*
ty compelled us to leave a coaft, for the firft time,
which we had firft difcovered, but not fully eJ^ploned.
The captain named it New Caledonia, and in his opi-
nion, it is next to New Zealand, the largeft ifland in
the South Pacific ocean. The extent is from lat. 19
deg. 37 min. to Zi deg. 30 min. S. and trom long. 163
deg. 37 min. to 167 deg. J4 min. E- It lies nearly N.
W. half W. and S. E. half E. and is about 87 leagues
Jong, but its breadth does not any where exceed ten
^eagues.

On the 7 th a breeze fprung up, and fixed at S. E. by
S. The day following we had a gentle gale, attended
with fine weather. On the 9th we were in lat. 28 deg.
25 min. and in 170 deg. 26 min. E. long. In the even-
ing Mr. Cooper ftruck a porpoife. It v> as fix feet long,
and differs from the common porpoife in the head and
jaw, \\hich are long and pointed. This had 88 teeth
in each jaw. It was firft foaked in water, then roafted,
l^rpiled, ai^d fried. To us who had long fubfifted on

294 Captain Cook's second Voyage

fait meat, it was more than palatable-, and we thought
the haflet, and lean ile(h> a delicious feai):.

On the loth we difcovered land. Capt. Cook called
it Norfolk Ifland. We anchored here in 2Z fathoms
water, on a bank of coral fand, mixed with broken
ihells. After dinner a party of us embarked in the
boats, and landed in the iiland behind fome large rocks.
It was uninhabited, and we were undoubtedly theBffl:
whoever fct foot upon it. We found here many fea
and land fowl, of the fame kind as in New Zealand -.
iikewife cabbage-palm, wood-forrel, fow-thiftle, and
(amphirc. The cabbage trees were not thicker than a
man's leg, and from iot0 2o feet high. The cabbage,
each tree producing but one* is at the top, enclofed in
the ftem. This vegetable is not only wholefome, but
exceedingly palatable; and fome cxQellentfini we caught
made a luxurious entertainment.

On the nth we failed from Norfolk Hland, which
we weathered, having ftretched up to S. S. W. We
found the coaft bounded with rocky cliffs and banks of
coral fand. On the fouth fide lie two ides, which ferve
as roofting and breeding places, for white boobies,
gulls, tern, &c. A bank of coral fand and (hells, fur-
round the iile, and extends, efpecially fouthward, k-%
ven leagues off. Our intention at this time was to re-
frefli the crew, and repair the Ihip in Qyeen Charlotte's
Sound.

On the 1 8th, we made a trip to the north, and bore
away for the found. We hauled round Point Jackfon,
at nine A. M. and at eleven o'clock anchored before
Ship Cove, tlie tide not permitting us to get in. Capt.
Cook went alhore, and looked for the bottle, with the
memorandum, which he left when laft here, but it was
laken away by fome perfon or other. The fcine was

hauled

Round the World.'

^y;

hauled twice, and only four (i(h caught : but feveral
birds were (hot, and the nefts of Come ibags were rob«
bed of their young ones.

On the 19th, the (hip was warped into the cove, and
moored. The fails were unbent, feveral of them hav-
ing been much damaged in the late gale. The main
and- fore courfes were condemned, and the top-mafts
ftruck and unrigged. The forge was fet u|5, and tents
ere£ted on (hore for the reception of a guard, &:c.
Plenty of vegetables were gathered for the refre(hment
of the crew, and boiled every morning with oatmeal
and portable broth for breakfaft. From fome circum-
{lances, as cutting down trees with faws and^xes, and
a place found where an obfervatory had been fet up in
our abfence, we had no doubt but the Adventure had
been in this cove fince we left it.

On the 24th, we faw canoes coming down the found,
which, when the (hip was leen by the people, retired
behind ft point on the weit-fide. After brcakfaft we
went in fearch of them, and having fired at feveral
birds, the report of our pieces gave notice of our being
near, and they difcovered themfelves by hallowing to
us in Shag Cove ; but when we landed, and drew near
to their habitations, they all fled, except two or three
,men, who maintained their ground,, with their wea-
pons in their hands. The moment we landed they
knew us, and their fears fubdded. Thofe who had
returned from the woods, embraced us over and over
again; but the men would not fuffer fome women we
faw at a diftance come near us. We a(ked them on
what account they were afraid of U3, and alfo what
was become of our old friends > To thefc queftions we
got no fatisfadory anfwer *, but they talked much about
killing, which was varioufly unddtood by us.

2^6 Captain Cook's seco:^d VoVage

On the 26th, fome of the natives went to the tents,
and told our -people, that a (hip like ours had lately
been loft, that fome of the men landed at Vanna Aroa,
on the other fide the ftrait ; that a difpute happened be-
tween them and the natives ; that feveral of the latter
were (hot; and that the natives got the better of them
■when they could fire no longer, and both killed and ate
them. One of the relaiers of this llrange ftory^ faid
it was 20 or 30 days ago j but another faid it was two
moons fincc.

The following day they told the fame ftory td others,
■which made the captain, and indeed all of us, very
. uneary about xhi Adventure, but when the captain en-
quired himfelf, and endeavoured to come at the truth
of thefe reports, the very people who raifed them, de-
nied every fyllable of what they had faid< and ieemed
wholly ignorant, of the matter; fo that we began to
think the whole relation had reference only to their ov/ u
pcop'e and boats.

On the 28ih, we again went on (hore, but found no
appearance of the hogs and fows we had left behind.
Having been a fliooting to the weft bay, in our return
we got fome fifh from the natives for a few trifling
prefents. As we came back, fome of the party thought
they heard a pig fqueak in the woods. We (hot this
day -a good many wild fowl and fmall birds. On the
a lift, it was fomewhat remarkable that all the natives
left us.

On the I ft of Nov. we were vifited by a number
of ftrangers, who came from up the found. The
principal articles of trade they brought with them was
green ftone, fome of which were the largeft pieces we
had ever feen. On the 2d a large black fow was feen
by the botanizing party, which we difcovercd to be the

fame

feoulib -i-iifi ^6 R L b.

iame that Capt* Furncaux ieft behind him. Suppofing
itto be aboar, we carried over to Long Ifland a fow,
but feeing our miftakc, we brought hef badk. This
incident afforded us feme hopes, that this ifland in time
will be (locked with fuch ufeful animals. Lieutenant
Pickerfgill was told the fame ftory by one of the natives^
of a fliip having been loft, but the man declared, though
many were killed, it was not by them*

On the 6th, our friends fctuf liedj and took up theif
abode near the tents. An old man named Pedero, made
Capt. Cook a prefent of a ftaffttf honour, fuch as the
chiefs carry ; and in return, the captain dreffed him
up in a fuit of old cloaths, which made him very hap-
py. He had a fine perfon, and his colour only diftjn*-
guifhed him from a European. We enquired of him
and his companions, if the Adventure had been there
4uring our abfence \ and they gave us to underftand
that (he arrived a little time after our departure; that
flie ftaid about twenty days> and had been gone ten
moons ; aiid that neither ihc, nor any- other mip, had
been ftranded on the coaft. This account made us eafy
refpefting the Adventure.

"This day we went with a fiumber of hands to catch
the fow, and put her to the boar, but returned with*
out feeing her. Pedero dined with us, partook hear-
tily of every thing fet before him^nd drank more wine
than any one at table, without being- in theleaft intox*
icated. On the 8th, we put a boar^ a fow, and two
pigs on Hiore, fo that we Jhope all our endeavours to
ftock this country will not prove fruitlefs. We found
a hen's egg a few days ago, and therefore believe, that
fome of the cocks and hens we left here are ftili in be-
ing*

On the pth, we unmoored, and (hifted our flation
* Pp farther

2gB Captain Cook's second VovAck

farther out the cove, for the more ready getting to
fea J but at prcfcnt, the caulkers had not finiihed the
fides of the (hip ; and we could not fail till this work
Was completed. Our friends brought us a large fupply
of fiflv, and in return, gave Pcdero a large empty oil
jar, with which he feemcd highly delighted. We ne-
vcr faw any of our prcfents after they received them,
and cannot lay whether they gave them away, or what
they did with them i but we obferved, every time we
tifited them, they were as much in want of hatchets,
, nails, &c. as if we had not beflowed any upon them.
Notwithftanding thefc people are cannibals, they are
of a good difpofition, and have not a little humanity.
The head of each tribe, or family, is refpefted ; re-
fpe<ft may command obedience j but we are inclined to
think, not one among them has either a ri^ht or power
to enforce it.

In the afternoon we went into one of the coves ;
where, upon landing,^ found two families employed in
different manners: forae were making mats, others
fleeping ; fome roafting fifli and roots ; and one girl
was employed in heating ftones. which (he took out of
the fire as foon as they were hot, and gave them to an
old woman who fat in the hut. The old woman placed
•them one upon another, laid over them fonic green ce-
lery, and over all a coarie mat : fhc then fquatted hcr-
•felf down on the top of the htap, and fat very clofe.
Probably this operation might be intended as a cure
for fome diforder, to be ^ffefted by the fleams arifing
■ from the green , celery, and we perceived the woman
feemcd very fickly.

CHAP.

< t

Round THE WoRtp.

a99

■«M

CHAP.

vm.

The departure of the Refolution from New Zealand—
Her paffage from thence to Terra del Fuego— The
run from Cape Defcada to Chriftmas Sound— The
Refolution departs from Chriftmas Sound-^Doubles
Cape Horn — Her paffage through Strait Lc Mairc;
and round Staten Ifland — ^Departs from Staten Ifland
—The ifland of Georgia difcovered, and a defcript
tivc account of the fame.

THURSDAY, Nov. lo, at day break, we weighed
and failed from C^een Charlotte's Sound, in New
Zealand, having a fine breeze at N. N. W. All our
fails being fet, we got round the Two Brothers, and
ftretched for Cape Campbell, at the S. W. entrance of
the Strait. We paffed this at four o'clock P. M. Cape
Pallifer bore N. half W. diftant five leagues, and then
ijicexcd, S. S^ E. h^lf E,

On the 13th, we hauled up towards a fog banl^,
which we took for land ; after which we fteered S. E.
by S. and faw a feal. On the 14th, we faw another
feal, in lat. 45 deg. 54 min. and 170 deg., 29 min. E.
long. On the 15th, having paffed the great meridian
of 180 deg. E. which divides the globe into two equal
parts, wc began to reckon oui: longitude W. of Grccn^
\ificlu

Oft

'^o Captain CooK*i second Voyao?

On the 27th, we (leered F. having a fteady frefti
gale J and at noon were inlat. 35 deg.6 min. & and in 13^
deg. 56 mill. W. long^ Ip this parallel, not a hope re-
inained of finding any more land in 'he fouthern Pacific
Ocean. We refolved therefore to fleer for the W. en-
trance of the Straits of Maghcllan, with a view of
coafling the S. fide of Terra del dc Fuego, round Gape
Horn to the Strait Le Maire. In ihe afternoon we ha^
fqually wejither, which carried away our top-gallant

On the I ft of December, it fell a calm, but about
fevcn, we. got a wind at S. E. which flood to N. E.
On the 5th, a fine gale at S. enabled us to, fleer E.
■with very little deviation to the N. and the wind now
altering to S. W. and bloiwing a fleady gale, we conti-
nued to keer E. inclining a little to S.. On the 6th, wc
|iad fome fnow fhowers ; and on tHe 9th, a fine plea-
sant gale, witl^ Ihoy^ers of rain.

On the iSth, we fleered S. E. by E. along the coafl.
Near a league from the main is a high ragged ifle,
which we called Landfall. We continued to range the
coafl, and at eleven o'clock, pafTed a projecting point
having a round furface, and of confiderable height, to
which we gave the name of Cape Gloucefler. It has
the appearance of an ifland, and is fituated S. S. E.
half E. 1 7 leagues from the ifle of Landfall. Between
thefe iht coaft forms two bays, flrewed with rocky
iflots, rocks, and breakers. The coaft appeared un-
nefted, as if formed of a number of iflands. The
land is very mountainous, rocky, and barren, but in
fome places, covered with tufts of wood and patches
of fnow.

On the 20th, wc perceived the fhip to drive off the
il;ore ou\ to lea j for bj the melting of the fnow, the

■ iulancj

lito?JNDTHE World.

.301

inland water? will occafion a ftr«:am to run out of mod
pf the inlets.. In the evening a breeze fpringing up
ar, E. by S. we ftopd in for the land, being defirous of
entering one of the many ports, in order to take a view
of the country, and to recruit our ftock of wood and
w^ter. In {landing in for ?in opening, apparently on
the eafl-fide, we founded in 40 and 60 fathoms. Our
iaft foundings were nearly between the two points .that
form the entrance to the inlet. We flood for that to "
the ea(i, as being clear of iflots ; but upon found-
ing, found no bottom wuh a line of 120 fathoms.
In this difagreeable fituation a breeze fpringing up, our
captain refolved to ftandi up the inlet ; but night ap-
proaching, our fafety depended on calling anchor,
therefore * continued founded, but always, to our
mortification, in an unfathomable depth : foon after
we anchored in 30 fathoms, in a bottom of fand and
broken ihells. ^

On the 2 2d, two parties were fent out with boats to
look for a more fecure flatioc. They found a cove a-
bove the point under which the Ihip lay, in which was
exceeding good anchorage. At the head of it was a
ftoney beach, a valley covered with wood, and a flream
of frefli water, conveniencics more favourable that we
pould expert would be found in fuch a place. Here alfo
they fliot three geefe out of four. Orders were dif-
patched to remove* the fliip into this place. We returned
on bo^rd, and found every think in readinefs to weigh,
which was done. We foon after got round, and an-
chored in 20 fathoms water.

On the 23d, Lieut. Pickerfgill went out to examine
the eaft-fide of the found, while the captain proceeded
in the pinnace to the weft-fide, with a view of going
round the ifland under which the fliip lay, which he
galled Shag Ifland, This harbour lies in W. by W. a

mile

1 ;3

ilL

^o* Captain Cook's. second Voyao^

mile and an half. It hath wood and frelh water, an^
from 12 to 24 fathoms deep. At the fouthend ofShag-
ifland, the fhags breed in vaft numbers, in the cliffs of
the rocks. We (hot fome of the old ones, but could
not come at the young ones, which are by much the
bell eating. We likewife brought down three wild
geefe> a valuable acquifitio^ at ;his tin[ie.

On the 24.th, two fporting parties went oyer one of
the N. E. of the ifland above mentioned, which was
named Goofe Ifland; and the other, accompanied by
Capt. Cook, went by the S. W. fide. When under the
ifland we had plenty of fport, having ifliot as many
gcefe as ferved for a, Chriftmas-meal for our men,
which proved much more agreeable to them than fait
beef and pork. In the fouth of the ifland were a-
bundancc of geefe, it being their moulting feafon,
when mofl: of them come on fliore, and are not dif-
pofed to fly. Our party got 62» and Mr. Pickerfgill,
with his party 14.

We were informed by our people on board, that a
number of natives, in nine canoes, had been along-fide^
and fome of tliem in the fhip: they feemed well ac-
quainted with Europeans, and had feveyal of their
knives among them.

On the 25th, being Chriflmas-day, we had another
vifit from them. They are a diminutive, ugly, half-
{larvcd, beardltfs race; almoft naked, being only flight-
ly covered with a feal-fliin or two joined together, fo
as to make a cloak, which reached to their knees ;
but the greateft*part of them had but one fliin, which
fcarcely covered their (houlders, and all their lower
parts were quite naked. The women are clothed no
better than the men, except that they cover their na-
kednefs with a fcal-fliin flap. They are inured from

, *" their

ftouWDTHE World.

305

their inJFancy to cold and hardftiips, for we faw fomd
young children at the breaft, entirely naked. They
remained all the time in their canoes, having their bows
and arrows with them, and harpoons, made of bone,
with which they (trike and kill fifti.

They all departed before dinner, nor did we be ieve
any one invited them to partake of our Chriftmas
cheer, >^hich confided of geefe, roaftand boiled, goofe-
pye, &c. a treat little known to us ; and which was
heightened by Madeira wine, the only article of our
provifions that was mended by keeping. We called
this place Chriftmas Sound, in honour of the day, and
the joyful feftival we had celebrated here.

On the t/th, every thing on (bore, was ordered on
board. The weather being fine and pleafant, a party
of us went round by the fouth-fide of Goofe-ifland,
and picked up 31 of thefe birds. When we returned
on board, we found all the work done, and the launch
in, fo that we now only waited for a fair wind to put
to fea.

On the 28th, we failed from this found, with a light
breeze at N. W. At noon Point Nativity, being the
eaft part of the found, bore N. half W. diftant one
league and a half. We fteered S. E. by E. and E. S.
E. when we hauled to the S. for the fake of a view of
St. Idenfonfo. At half paft five o'clock, we had a good
light of the ifles. They are fituated about fix leagues
from the main, in lat. 5$ deg. 53 min. S. and in 6^ deg.
41 min. W. long. •

On the 30th, we were driven by the current to Sta-
ten land j but a breeze fpringing up at N. N. W. wc
ftood over for Succefs Bay. We hoifted our colours,
and firing two guns, we perceived a fmoke rife out

I-,;

'9H'

m
m

' .i ■

304 Captain Cqctk's second VaVAcii

of die woods, made by the nativfes above thefoutfi
point of the bay. A party was fent into Succefs Bay^
in order to difcover if any traces of the Adventure
weve to be feen there j but they returned without hav-
ing found any.

"UTien Mr. Pickerfgill landed^ - the natives recet^^ed
him and his affociates with great courtefy. They were
clothed in fcal-(kins, had bracelets on their arms, and
appeared to be the fame kind of people we had feen in
Chriftmas Sound. The bracelets were made of filler
wire, wrought fomewhat like the hilt of afword, and
no doubt, the workmanlhip of an European. Ac-
cording to Mr. PickerfgilPs account, the bay was full
of whales and feals, and we had obferved the fame in
the ftrait, particularly on 'the Terra del Fuego frde,
where the whales are exceeding numerous.

On the 51 ft^ we bore up for the eaft end of Stateii
Land. The v cather being hazy, who eould only now
and then get fight of the coaft ; but as we advanced to
the eall, fcveral iflands were feen of unequal extent.
As we continued our courfe, we faw on one of the
iflands a great number of feals and birds, a Arong
temptation to our people who were in wantof frelh
provifions ; and in hauling round it, we had a ftrong
race of a current, hke unbroken water. At length,
after fi(hing for the beft ground, caft anchor in 21 fa-
thoms water> about a mile from the ifland.

In the afternoon, a large party of us landed, fome to
kill feals, and others birds or filb. The ifland was lb
ftocked with the former, which made fuch a continual
Jjleating, that we might have thought ourfelves in Ef-
fex, or any other country where cows and calves are
in abundance. Upon examination, we found thefe
animals different from feals, ihough they relcmbled

them

Round the World.

305

them in Ihape and motion. The male having a great
likcnefs to a lion, we called them on that account lions.
We alfo found of the lame kind as the New Zealand
feali, and thefe \ve named fea bears. We (hot fome of
the large ones, not thinking it fafe to go near them ;
tho* in general, they were fo tame, that we knocked
fome down with our flicks. Here were a few gecfe
and ducks, and abundance of penguins and fhags ; the
latter. of which had young ones, almoft fledged, c^n-
feqiiently juft to our tafte. In the evening our party
returned, fufficiently laden with provifions ot various
forts. ,

;_!*/■ J ■ . '■ ' ■

On the I ft of Jan. 1775, Mr. Gilbert was fent out
to Staten Land, in fearch of a good harbour, nothing
more being wanting, in the opinion of the captain, to
make this place a good port for Ihips to touch at for
refrefhments. Another party went to bring on board
the beafts we had killed the preceding day. The old
lions and bears 'were good for nothing but their blub-
bler, of which we made oil ; but the flcfh of the
young ones we liked very well : even the flelh of the
old lioneiTes was not much amifs 5 but that of the old
males was abominable.

This day Capt. Cook took an obfervation of the fun's
meridian altitude (his height at noon) at the N. E. end
of this ifland, which determined its latitude at 44 deg-
40 min. 5 fee. S. Having (hot a few geefe, fome other
birds, and fupplied ourfelves plentifully with young
Ihags, returned on board in the evening.

About ten the party returned from Staten Land,
where they found a good port, in the direftion of N.
a little eafterly, from the N. E. end of the Eaflern
ifland, and diftant three leagues to the weftward of
Cape St. John. The marks whereby it may be known,

(^q arc

3^6 Captain Cook's second Voyage

are feme fmall iflands lying in the entrance. The chan-
nel, which is on the caft-fide of thefe iflands, is half a
mile broad. The courfe is in S. W. by S. turning gra-
dually to W. by S. and W. The harbour is almoft two
miles long, and near one broad. The bottom is a
mixture of mud and fand, and hath in it from lo to
50 fathoms water. Here are fevcral ftreanxs of frelh
water, with good wood for fuel.

»
On this ifland are an innumerable number of fea-
gulls, the air was quite darkened with them, upon be-
mg difturbed by our people : and when thev rofe up^
we were almofl: fuffocated with their dung, which they
feemed to emit by way of defence ; and i^ ftuuk worfe
tlian what is vulgarly called devil's dung.

On the .3d, we weighed, and Hood for Cape Su
John, which in the evening, bore N. by E. diftant
four miles. This point being the eaftern pomt ofStaten

. Land, is a rock of confiderable height, fituated in lat.
^^ deg. 46 min. S. and in 64 deg. 7 min. W. long, hav-
ing a rocky iflot lymg clofe under the north point of it.
To the weflward of the cape is an inlet, which feemed
to communicate with the fea to the fomh ; and between
this and the cape is a bay. Having doubled" the cape,
we hauled up along thefouth coaft. At noon cape St.
John bore N. 2q deg. E. diftant about three leagues;

* cape St. Bartholomew, or the S. W. point of Staten
Land, *S. 85 deg. W. two high detached rocks N. 80
deg. W. By obfervation our lat. was found to be 54
deg. $6 min. S. We now judged this land to h^ve been
fufficiently explored ; but before we leave it,' think it
aeceffary to make a few obfcrvations on this and its
neighbouring iflands.

The S. W. coaft of Terra del Fuego, with refpeft to
iblets and iflands, may be compared to the coaft of

Norwa) j

I i I i

m>mi

|v ..

Round the Won. l d.

30?

Norway ; for we believe within the extent of three
leagues there isan.inlct or harbour, which will receive
and fhelter the firft rare fhips; but, till thefe are better
known, every navigator muft fifti for anchorage ; adH
to this, ;hcre are fevcral rocks on the coaft ; though as
none lie far from land, the approach of them may be
known by founding, if they cannot be feen ; fo that
upon the whole, we cannot think this the dangerous
coaft it has been reprefented by other voyagers.

Statcn land is 30 miles in length, and near 1 2 broad.
It furface confifts of craggy hills, touring up to a vaft
height, efpecially near the weft end, and the coaft is
rocky. The greatcft part of the hills, their fummits
excepted, is covered with trees, ftirubs, and herbage.
We cannot fay any thing, that navigators may depend
on, concerning the tides and currents oil thefe coafts ;
but we obferved that in Strait Le MaFre, the foutherly
tide, or current, begins to aft at the new and fuH
moon about four o'clock. It may alfo be of ufe to com-
manders to remark, that if bound round Cape Horn
to the W. and not in want of any thing to oblige them
to put into port, we would advife them not to: come
near land ; as by keeping out to fea, they would avoid
the currents, which, we are convinced, lofe their force
1 2 leagues from land ; and at a greater diftance they
would find none to impede their courfe.

All the animals of this ifland live in perfeft harmony,
and fcem careful not to difturb each other's tranquitity.
ITie fea lions poffefs moft of the coaft j thej bears
take up their quarters within the ille ; the fliags lodge
in the higheft cliffs ; the penguins have their feparate
abode where there is the moft eafy communication to
and from the fea ; and the other birds have their places
ot retirement j yet we have obferved them all, with mu-
tual reconcilement, mix together, like domcftic cattle

anc^

f> I

111

■ ■

■i

■•b

■

508 Captain Cook's second Voyaob

and poultry in a farm yard : nay, wc have fccn the ea-
gles and vultures fitting together among the fliags, on
their hillocks, without the latter, cither young or old,
being diflurbcd at their prefcnce.

We left Staten Ifland on the 3d, and this 4ay being
the 4ih, wc faw the land again ; and at fix o'clock in
the afternoon, a heavy fquall came fo fuddenly upon us,
that it carried away a top-gallant mail, a ftudding-fail
boom, and a fore fludding-fail. This ended in a heavy
ihower of rain ; and now fleered S. W. in order to
difcover the gulph of Sebaftian, if fuch a coafl cxifted,
in which that gulph has been reprefented, for of this
Vre entertained a doubt : however, this appeared to be
the beft courfe to clear it up, and to explore the fouthern
part of this ocean,

On the 6th, we were in lat. 58 dcg. 9 mln. S. and
53 ^^S* '4 ™^"' ^* ^^^ fituation nearly aSigned for the
S. W. point of the gulph of St. Sebaftian ; but feeing
no figns of land, were ftill doubtful of its exiftence ;
and being alfo fearful, that by keeping to the S. might
mifs the land faid to be difcovered by La Roche in 1675,
and by the fhip Lion, in 1756 ; for thefe reafons we
hauled to the N. in order tq get in to the parallel laid
down by Dalrymplc as foon as poflible On the 7th,
we were near midnight in the lat, of 56 deg. 4 min. S,
long. 53 deg. 36 min. W,

On the 13th, we ftood to the S. till noon, when find-
ing ourfelves in lat. ^^ ^^S' 7 "^^"' ^^ ftretched to the
N. Wc faw feveral penguins, and a fnow peterel,
which we judged to denote the vicinity of ice. Wc
found alfo the air much colder than we had felt it fince
we left New Zealand. On the 14th, we difcovered
land, in a manner wholly covered with fnow. We
fpuudcd in 175 fathoms, muddy bottom. Qn the 15th

the

Round the World.

309

the wind blew in fqualls, attended with fnow and fleet,
and we had a great fea to encounter^ At four we ftood
to the; Si W, iindcr two courfes; but atmidmight the
ftorm abated, (o that we could carry our top-fails dou-
ble reefed.

On the 1 6th, at four o'clock A. M. we ftood to the
E. with a moderate breeze, and at eight faw the land
extending from E. by N, to N. E. by N. It proved to
be aniAand^ and we called it Willis's ifland, from the
name of the perfon who firft clifcovered it from tlue
maft-hcad. We bore, to it with a view of exploring the
northern coaft ; and as we advanced perceived another
ifle to the north, between that and the main. Obfer?-
ing a clear paffage between both, we fteered for the
fan^e, and in the midway found it to be two miles broad.
Willises Ifle is in the lat. of 54 deg. S. and in 38 deg. 23
min. W.long.

On the 17th, having got through the paHage, we
obferved the north coaft trended E. by N. for about
three leagues. We ranged the coaft till near night, at
onejeague diftance, when on founding, we ibund fifty
fathomS| and a muddy bottom. On the 17th, we made
for the land. We now fteered along ftiore till feven,
when feeing the appearance of an inlet, we hauled in
fojT it. The captain, accompanied by Mr. Forfter and
others, went off in a boat, to reconnoitre the bay* be-
fore we ventured in with the fhip. They landed in
three different places, difplayed our colours, and took,
pofleflion of the country in his majefty's name. The
b'»a of the bay was terminated by ice cliffs, of confl-
derable height j pieces of which were continually
breaking off, and made a noife hl^e a cannon. Nor
were the interior parts of the country lefs horrible.
The favage rocks raifed their lofty fummits till loft in
the clouds, and valleys were covered with feemingly

"~" \ perpetual

jio Captain Cook's second Voyage

perpetual fnow. Not a tree, nor a (hrub of any fize
were to be feen. The only figns of vegetation were a
Urong bladed grafs, growing in tufts, wild burnet,
and a plant like rnofs feen on the rocks. Sea bears, or
feah, were numerous; thelhores fwarincd with young
cubs. . Here were alfo the largeft penguins we had yet
feen. Some we brought aboard weighed thirty
pounds.

When the party returned aboard, they brought with
them a quantity of feals and penguins ; not that we
wanted provifions, but any kind of frelh meat was ac-
ceptable to the crew ; and even Gapt. Cook acknow-
ledged, that he was now, for the fir ft time, heartily
tired of fait diet of every kind ; and that though the
flefti of penguins could fcarcdy be compared to bul-
locks liver, yet its being frefh was fufficieht to make it
palatable. The captain named the bay he furvcyed,
Pofleffion Bay ; though according to his account of it,
vrc think it to be no appendage to his majefty's new
pofleifions.

On tHe i8th,we made fail to the caft, along thecoaft;
the direftion of which from Cape BuUcr, is 73 deg. 30
rain. E. for the fpace of twelve leagues, toaprojeding
point, which v/as named Cape Saunders^ Beyond this
is a pretty large bay, which obtained the name of Cum-
berland l?ay. At the bottom of this, as alfo in fonie
fmaller ones, were vaft tradts of frozen ice or fnow,
not yet broken lofe. But now juft paft Cumberland
Bay, we hauled off ,ihc coaft, from whence we were
diftant four miles. *

On theaoih, we made fail to the S. W. round Coop-
cf s iiland, which is one rock, confiderably high, about
five miles in circuit, and one diftant from the main.
Herd the main coaft takes a S, W; direction for five

• leagues,

£ . I

ROUKD THE W

R L D»

i'f

leagues, to a point which we called Cape Difappoint-^
ment, oiF which are three fmall iflcs. The mofi:
ibuthern one is a league from the Cape, green, low,
and flat. We now quitted this coaft, and diredled our
courfe to the S. S. £. for the land we had feen the pre-
ceding day. A (Irons gale overtook us, and we
thought ourfelvcs very tortunate in having got clear of
the land before this came on.

On the 21(1, the (lorm was fucceeded by a thick fog,'
attended with rain ; but having got a foutherly breeze,
we ftood to the ea(t till three in the afternoon ; and then
fleered north in feaiach 6f the land. On the szd,. we
had thidk foggy weather ; but in the evening it iwas
fo clear that we could fee two leagues round us, and
thinkihg we might be to the eaft of the land, we. (leered
we(t. , •

On the 23d, a thick fog at fix o'clock, once more
compelled us to haul the wind to the fouth ; but at
eleven, we were favoured with a view of three of four
rocky iflots, extending from S. £. to £. N. E. about one
league diftant ^ and this, being the extent of our hori-
zon, might be the rcafon we did not (ee the Sugar-loaf.
We were well aflur^d,, this was the Jand we had feen
before, and which we had now circumnavigated ; cpn-
fiftingof only a few detached rocks, tHe receptacles for
birds. They are fiituated in lat. t^S iieg. S. This in-
terval of clear weather was fucceeded ty as thick a fog
as ever, on which we ftpod to the N. Thus we were
continually involved in thick mifts, and the (h?,gs,
with frequent foundings, were our bed pilots j but on
the 23d, weftood a few miles to the, north, when we
got clear of the rocks, out of foundings, an4itaw not
any (hags. ' • ' ' . ; ' ' ' • VV"ir^/,7

CHAP.

, 3ta CAPTAik Cook'« sico'nd Votaoi

"9. ^'

K'l

JV/^ "

r /n, i 71.''V ... J ;

C H A P.

IX.

X^c Refolution .continues hcif coutf(&-4^cwland and

Saunders iiles difcovered — Conjedures, and foroe

reafons that there may be land about the fouth pole^«-

. The Refolution alters her cQurfe totheeaft — Procced-

' iags tilt heriirrtval at the Cape of Good Hope— Sails

for the Jfle of Fayal, and returns tor England— Capt.

Furneaux's narrative, from the time the Adventure

was feparated from the Refolution, to her arrival in

' Eogland, including the report 0f Lieut.' Barnciy, con-

rceiningthe untimely death of the boat's crew^ who

^ were murdered by.fotoe of. the natives ;of Queen

Charlotte's Sound. ^ ,\u.\

^N the 25th, we fteered E. S. E. We had a frelh
,^ ^le at N. N. E. but the weather ftill continued
fo^jyj till towardiith^ evening, at which time it clear-
ed u^. On the z^th, lye held on our coiirfe with a fine
gale from the N. N. W. but atday-light, feci pg no land
to the caft, and being in latitude 56 deg. 33 min S. and
in*3i deg. 10 min. weft longuudc, we fteered to the
fomh. I ; ' c

I {► ..,.*■■

^'Dn the ■27th, we had fo thick a fog,: th^t>^e could
not fee a(ftip*s length. We expefted foon to fsfll in
with the ice, and on this account, it being ho longer
fafe to fail before the wind, we hauled to the eaft with a
gentle ^le. When the fog cleared away, we refumed
•- - " . , our

«■«

oiJND THE World.

3»3

6itr courfe to the fouth ^ but it returned again, which
obliged \xi to haul upon a wind ; and unlcfs we fooit
difco/crcd feme certain figns of falling in with land, the
captain determined to make this the limit of his voyage
to the fouth. Indeed it woUld not have been prudent
to have fqiiandercd away tinie in feekin:; farther to the
fowth, when there was as great a probability of finding
a large track of land near cape circumcifion. Defides
it was an irkfomc tafk to traverfe in high fouthern lati-
tudes, where nothing was to be difcovered but ice.

At this time a long hollow fwell from the weft, indica-
ted that no land was to be expelled in fuch a direction ;
and upon the whole, we may venture to aiTert, that the
cxtenfive coaft laid down by Mr. Dalrymple, and his
Gulph of St. S^baftian, do not cxift. On the 28th, at
eight o'clock, A. M. we ftood to the caft,' with a gentle
breeze at north. ,The weather cleared away, and we
perceived the fea ftrewed with large and fmall bodies
of ice. Some whales, penguins, (now pctercls, and o-
ther birds were feen. We had now furt-fliinc, but the
j^ir was cold. At noon, by obfervation, we w^ere in 60
deg, 4 min, S. and in 29 deg; 23 rain. W. longitude;
At half paft two o'clock, having cotinue^l out coarfe to
the eaft, we fuddenly fell in with a Vaft number of lafge
ice-iflands, and a fea ftrewed witft loofe ice,' and the wea-
ther becoming hazy, made it dangerous to ftand in a-
mong them'. We therefore tacked, and ftood back to
the weft^ with the wind at north. We were now fur-
rounded with ice-iflands, all nearly of an equal height,'
with a flat furface ; but of various extent.

, On Sunday the 19th, having little wind» we were O'
bilged to traverfe in fuch courfes, as were moft likely to
Carry us clear of them, fothat we hardly made any pro-
grefs, one way or other, throughout the whole day;
The weather was fair, but remarkably gloomy, and we
Namb. 14. R r were

Captain Cook's second Voyagb

\verf, vifited by peiigums and whales in abundance.
On tbe 30th, we tacked and ftood to the N» E. and al-
jnofl throughout the day it was foggv, with cither fleet
or fnow. At noon We vtcrc in- latitude 59^deg. 30 min.
S. and in 29 deg.. 24 min. W. At two o'clock, paflrd
one of the iargcft ice-iflands we had feen during our
voyage ; and fometimc attcr two fmaller ones. On the
31ft We difcovered land a-heady diftant about one
league. This land confifted of three rocky iflots of con-
fiderable height. The outmoft tcTHiinated- ih' a lofty-
peak, like a fugar-loaf, to which we gave the name of
Freezland Peak, after the man who firlt difcovered it.
The latitude is 59 deg. S. and 27 deg.W. longitude.
To the call of this peak, was feen an elevated coaft„
whofe fnow-cap'd fummits were above the clouds. We
flamed it Cape Briftol, in honour of the noble family of
Hervey. Alfo in latitude 59 deg. 13 min. 30 fee. S. and
in 2I7 deg. 45 min. W. another elevated coaft appeared
in fighc, dillant from four to eight leagues. This lanS
We called Southern Thule, becaufc the moft fouthern
that has yet been dilcovered. Its furface rifes high, and
is every where covered with fnow. There were thofe
of our company, who thought they law land in the
fpacc between Thule and Cape Briftol. We judged it
more than probable that thcfe two lands are connefted,
and the fpace is a deep bay, which, though thefe are
mere fuppofitions, wis called Porfter's Bay. Being nor
able to Weather Southern Thule, we tacked and ftood
to the north, at one o'clock, and at four Freezland Peak
was diftant four leagues. Soon after the wind fell, and
We were left to the mercy of a great wefterly fwell,
which fet right upon the Ihore ; but at eight o'clock,
the weather clearing up, we faw Cape Briftol, which
bore E. S. E. ending in a point ro the north, beyond
which we could fee no land. Thus wc were relieved
from the fear of being caft away by the fwelj, and caft'
©nthe moft horrible coaft ia the world. We continu-
ed.

^Pl"

Hound t h h World.

315

nee.
ial-
fleet
min.
alTcd

our
1 the

one
■con-
lofty
me of
red it.
itude.
coafto
. We
nlly of
S. and
peared
is land
luthern
Ih, and
c tliofe
ill the
dged it
ncfted,

efe are
ting nor
[d ftood

id Peak
fell, and
fwell,

'clock,
L which
] beyond

relieved

md caft'

:ontinu-
cd.

,ed our courfe.to the north all night, with a light brefze
at weft.

On Wednefday the firft of February, at four o'clock
in the morning, we had a view of a new coaft. At fix
it bore north 60 deg. E. and being a high promontory,
we named it Gape Montague, ir is fituated in latitude
5^ deg. 37 min. S. and in 26deg. 44 min. W. longitude^
eight leagues to the north of Briftol. We faw land in
Several places between them, whence we concluded the
whole might be connefted. ^7e wifli it had been in
our po>ycr to have determined this with greater certain-
ty, but prudence would not permit the attempt, nor to
venture near a jcpaft the dangers of v^hich have been
already fufEcientiy pointed out. One ice-ifland, amortg
many others 01^ this coaft, particularly attrafted our no-
tice. It was Ifcvel in furfacc, of great extent both in
height and circuity and its fides were perpendicular, on
which the waves of the fea had not made the leaft im-
preflion. We thought it might liave<:ome out from fomc
bay on the coaft. At noon by obfervation. w.e found v
our latitude to he 58 deg. 25 min. In the afternoon,
at two o'clock, when ftanding to the north we faw land,
which bore north 25 deg. E. It extended from north
40 deg. to 52 deg. E. and it was imagined more lan4
lay beyond it to the eaft.

On the 2nd, at fix o'clock A, M. having fteered to
north during the night, land was difcovered, bearing
north 12 deg. E. diftant 10 leagues. We faw two bum-
mocks juft above the horizon* of which we foon» loft
fight. We now ftood, having a frefti breeze at N. N.
E. for the northermoft land we had feen the preceeding
day, which, at this time, bore E. S. E. By ten o'clock
we fetched in with it, b^t not having it in our power to
weather the fame, we tacked at three miles from the
coaft. This cjctcnded from E. by S, to S. E. and ap-r

peare4

5i6

Captain Cook's second Voyage

llii

I'M

peared to be an ifland of about lo leagues circuit. The
furface was high, and its fummit loft in the clouds.
Like all the neighbouring lands, it was covered with a
iheet of fnoW and ice, except on a point on the nortli
ifide, and on twb hill'* feeh over it, which probably were
two iflands) Thefe were hot only clear of fiioMi^, but
feemed covered with green turf.' We faw alfo large
ice-iflands to the fouth, and otherf? to thcN. E.' 'At
noon We tacked for the land again, in' order if poiTible
to determine whether It was an iflaud ; but a thick fo?
foon prevented the difcovery, bynlakihg'it unfafe to
fland for the'fliore ; fo that having returned^ wfe lacked
And ftood to N." W. xb make the land we had feen'in the
morning. We left the other under the fuppofitidn'of it^
being an ifland," and named it Saunders Ifle, after Capt.
Cook's honourable friend Sir Charles Saiinders. It lies
in latitude 57deg. 49 min. S. ^and in 26 deg. 44 min.
W. longitude, dillant 13 leagues from Gape Montague.
The wind having ftiifted at fix o'clock, we ftdod to the
north ; and at eight "tve faw Saunders Ifland, extending
from S. E. by 8. to E. S. E. '■ We were ftill in doubt
if it were an ifland, and could not at this time clear it
up,as we found it neceflary to take a view of the land to
the north, before we proceeded any further to tlie eaft.
With this intent we flood to the north, and on the 3(1,
at two 'o'clock A. M. we came in fight of thfc land \ve
were fcarching after, Ts^iich proved to be two illcs.
On account of the day on which they were 'difcovered,
wc called thiem Candlemas Ifles. They lie in latitude
57 deg, 1 1 min. S. and in 27 deg. 6 min. W. longitude.
J3etween thefe wc dbfervcd a ftnall rock : there may
perhaps be othets ; f«r the weather being hazy dccafi-
oned us to lofe light cf the iflands, and we did not fee
them again till noon, at which time they were three or
four leagues off. We now ftood to the N. E. and at
jnid night came faddenly into water uncommonly white,
;^t which appearance the officer on w&tcli was fo much
•■ • •' lUarmcd,

Round the World.

3>7

44 mill,
oniaguc.
3d to the
xtendirig
in doubt
e clear it
le iiind to
rthe eaft.
n the 3d,
; land Sve
two illcs.

covered,
n latitude
ongitude.
ler'e may
zy dccafi-

d not fee
three or

E. and at

\y white,

fo much

idarmcd,

alarmed, that he immediately ordered the fliip to put a-
bout, and we accordingly tacked inftantly. There were
various opinions aboard concerning this matter ; prpba-
bly it might be a'ftioal of fifli ; but Ibme faid it v/as a.
ihoal of ice j and others thought it was Ihallow water,

On Sunday the 4th, at noon by obfervation we found
ourfelves in latitude ^6 dcg. 44 min. S. and in longitude
25 tleg. 33 min. W. - Mfe noy having a breeze at eaft,
flood to the fouth, Intending to I'egain the coaft we had
loft; but the wind at eight o'clock in the evening, ob-
liged us to ftaiid to the eaft, in which rui] we faw many
ice-iflands and foihe loofe ice. As the formation ofjce-
iflands has not been fully inveftigated, wc will here of-
fer a few hints and obferyzvtions refpefting them.

We do not think as fome others do, that they arc
formed by the water at the mouths of great catara£ls
or large rivers, which, when accumulated, break off,
owing to their ponderous weight ; becaufe we never
foimd any of the ice, which we took up, in the leaft in*
corporatedj'or connefted with the earth, which muft-
neceffarily adhere to i^, were this conjecture true. Fur-
thermore, we are not certain whether there are any rl-
Vers in thcfe countries, as we faw neither rivers nor
ftreams of frefh water there. The ice-iflands at leaft
ih thofj partsi muft be formed from fnow and fleet con-
folid;- ; i, which gather,^ by degrees, and are drifted
froi if inountains. In winter, the feas or ice-cliffs
mui: fill vp the bays, if they are ever Vo large. The
continu il ^ill of fnow occafions the accumulation of
ihefe cliffs, till they can fupport their weight no lopger,
and large pieces break off from thefe ice-iflands. Wc
fire inclined to believe, that thefe ice-cliffs, where they
are (lieltered from the violence of the winds, cxtcn^ ^
gr^at way into the fca.

^ ' ■ • •• - On

3*8 Captain Cook's SECOND VoYAGB

On the 5tli, having feen no penguhis, we thought
that we were leaving land behind us, and that we hiid
fsalTed its northern extremity. Qn the 6th, we held on
our courfe till the 7 th atnoqn, when we found pur lati-
tude to be 58 deg. 15 min. S. and Ion. 21 deg. 34 min.
W. and not feeing any figns of liind, we concluded, tliat
r^hat had been denominated Sandwich Land, was ci-
tljier a group of iflands, or a point of the continent : for
^ Capt. Cook*s opinion, the ice that is fpread over this
vafl: fouthern ocean, muft originate in a tr^ck of land,
which he firmly believes lies ueax the pole, and extends
farthefl to the north, oppofite the Southern Atlantic
and Indian Oceans ; for ice being fo.und in thefe farther
to the north, t;\i any where elfe, induced the captain
to conclude, thj ^i of confiderable extent muft exift
near the fouth. i. ^^on a contrary fuppofition it will
follow, that we ought to fee ice every where UQder the
fame paralel ; b\u few fliips have met with ice going
round Cape Horn ; and for our part, we faw but little
below the fixtieth degree of latitude in the Southern
Pacific Ocean ; on the other hand in this fea, between
the meridian of 40 d,eg. W. and fifty or fixty degrees
eaft, we found ice as far north as 5 1 deg. Others
have feen it in a much lower latitude. Let us now
ftippofe there is a Southern Continent within the polar
circle. The qucftion which readily occurs, will be.
What end can be anfwered ii? difcovering or exploring
fnch a coaft ? Or what ufe can the fame be either to na-
vigation, geography, or any other fcience ? and what
benefits can refult therefrom to a comuiercial ftate ?
Confider for a moment, what thick fogs, fnow, ftorms,
jntenfe cold, and every thing dangerous to navigation,
mull be encountered with by every hardy adventurer j
beliold the horrid afpeft of a country impenetrable by
the animiitin,:; heat of the fun's rays j a country doomed
to be immerfed in everlafling fnow. See the iflands and
floats on the coaft, and the continual fails of the ice-

cUffs

Round the World,

clifFs in the ports : tlicfe difficulties, which might be
heightened by others lefs dangerous, are fufficieat to
deter every one from the rafli attempts of proceeding
farther to the fouth, than our expert and brave com-
mander has done, in fearch of an unknown country,
which when difcovered would anfwerno valuable pur-
pofe whatever.

By this time we had traX^erfcd the Southern Ocean,
in fuch a manner, as to have no doubt in determining
diat there is no continent, unlefs near the -pole, and out
of the reach of navigation. We have made many new
difcoveries, and afcertained the cxaft fituation of feveral
old ones. Tlius was the end of our voyage fully an-
fwered, a fouthern hemifphere fufficiently explored, and
the neceffity of a fearch after a fouthern continent put an
end to. We Ihould have proceeded to farther difcove-
ries, but our captain thought it cruel to detain the peo-
ple who failed with him any longer without the neceifa-
ry refefhments, cfpecially, as their behaviour merited
every indulgence ; for neither officers nor men ever
once repined at any hardfliip, nor exprefled any uneafi-
iiefs» or additional fear of danger, on account of out
reparation from the Adventure. It was now high time
to think of returning home ; and could we have con-
tinued longer, we fliould have b(?en in great danger of
the fcurvy breaking out among us, and we do not knov;
any good purpofe farther difcoveries would have an-
fwered : we therefore fleered for the Cape of Good
Hope, intending to look for Bouvct*s difcoVery, Cape
Clrcumcifiott, and the ifles of Denia and Marfcvecn.

On Tuefday, the 7th, we refumed our courfe to ihc
caft, and this day only three ice iflands were feen. At
eight o'clock in the evening, we hauled the wind to the
S. E. for the night. On the 8th at day-light, we conti-
nued our courfe to the caft. In the afternoon paffcd

three

320. Captain Cook's second VavAGE

three let iflands. On the 9th we had a calm moft parf
of the day ; the weather ftiir, except at times a fnow
ihoWcr, Wefawfeveral ice iflands, but i^ot the lead
intimation that could induce us to think that any land
was near us. We Hood now to the north eaft with a
breeze vsrhrch fprung up atS. E. On the ioth,we had
ihowcrs of fleet and fnow ; the weather was piercing
cold, iiifomuch that the water on the deck was frofen.
The ice illands were continually in fight.

On the nth, \7e continued to (leer eaft. In the morn-
ing we had heavy Ihowers of fnow -, but as the day ad-
vanced, we had clear and ferene weather. At noon we
were in latitude 58 deg. 1 1 min. and in 7 deof. ^^ min.
W. lonoitudc.- On the 12th, vVe had ice-ijlands conti-
nually in fight, but moft of them Were fmall and breakr
ing to pieces. On the 13th, we had a heavy fall of
fnow ; but the flcy clearing up, we had a fair nighty
and fo ftiarp a froft, that the water in all our vcillh
on deck, was next rti-orning covered with a Iheet of ice.

On the 14th, we continued to fteer eaft, inclining
to the north, and in the afternoon crofted the firft me-
ridian, or that of Greenwich, in the latitude of ^y deg.
50 min. S. At eight p*clock we had a hard gale, at
S. S. W. and a high fea from the fame c/iarter.

On the 15th, we fteered E. N. E. till noon, when
by obfervation, we were in latitude of 56 deg. 37
min. S. and in 4 deg. 1 1 min. E. longitude. We now
failed N. E. with a view of getting into the latitude of
Cape Circumcifion. We had fome largewice-iflands in
fight, and the air was nearly as cold as the preceding
day. The night was foggy, with fnow fli9wcrs, anj
a fmart froft. On the 16th, we continued our courfe
N. E. and at noon we obfer\'ed in latitude 55 deg. 26
min. E. Jongiiude, in which fituation we had a great

fwcli

• / ' > ' ,

^OlJNt) THE WoRLEii*

321

'^■.'j

fvvell. from the foiitli, but ho ice m fight. At one o'<;Iock
^c flood to the fouth eafl till fix, when we tacked,
and flood to the north. At tjiis time we had a heavy-
fall of fnoW and fleet, which fixed to the mads and rig-
ging as it fell, and coated the whole mik ice. On the
i/di, vVe had a great high fea from the foutli, and froni
whence we concluded no land was near in that dire6U-
en. On the i8th the weather was fair and clear.-

WenoW kept a look out for Cape Circiimtifioin ;,
for if the land had ever fo little extent in dircdion of
N. and S. we could not mifs feeing it, as the northern
point is fiiid to lie in 54 deg^ On the 19th, ateigbf
o'clock in the morning, land appeared in the due<5ti(jai
E. by S; but it proved ?i mere fog-bank. We noV?
fleered eafl by fouth and S. E. till feven o'clock in thtj
evenings when we wcrera latitude 54 de^. 43 raiq. .'6.
and in 1.3 deg. 3 min. E. Ion. We now ftcwd to ^^IV^*
haying, a very ftrong gale, attended ,with fnow iliowqrs.
On monday, the 20th we tacked and.flret.ched to tjie
N. E. and had a frefh gale attended with fiiov/ fliowers
and fleet. A noon our latitude ■yvas 54 deg. 8 min. S.
ion. 12 deg. 59 min. E. but had riot the ieafl fignof landw
On the 2ifl, we WjCre 5 deg. to the eafl qf-tliie^longitudc
, in which Cape GircumciAph is faid to liCi,ancl continued
oiif C0;tirfe eafl, indinnig a Tittle to the fouth; till the
22d. Weih'ad now meafui-ca jEri the latititde l^id down
for Bou^et*s land, thirteen degrees of longitude ; a
courfe in which it is |iardly poffible vfre could iiave mif-
fed it ; we therefore began to dotibt its exiftence ; and
coricluficd. that whjvt^.plii? Frenchman hjafl fecn^ qopld
be noihiiig^ more ^^ibap a.d.ec:epti'pn, or aji iflai^d of icie :

Jbr aftei- ^.iiad^iftjiVfej^^ iUcsr* to 1% 'preieut

tiiTie riot the lesifl v,(:{iig^.9i^.J^d HaQ ,be0 dff^^

We faw tis trUe,|f6rae icals^ijid penguitisybut tliefc

% toJ)e,Ji9,ua4 in all pari&.ot thie fouttrem.ocfiaii, ancj

• wc

Ji'i Caftain Cook's second Voyage

wc believe ihags,^ gannets, boobies, and men of war
"birds, are the mift indubitable fignsthat denote the vi-
cinity of lands, is th6y feldom go very far out to fea.
Being at this time only two degrees of longitude from
our rout to the fouth, wh^ii we took our departure from
the Cape of Good Hope, it was in vain for us to con-
tinue OUT courfe to the eaft, und^f (his pariallel ; but
thinking we might have feen land fatther to the foutht
for this reafon, and to clear up fonle doubts^ we fleered
S. £. in order to get into the fituation in which it was
fappofed to lie.

On the 23d, frotri obfervations on feveral diflanccs of
\ht fun and moon, we found ouf felves in the latitude of
J5 deg. 25 min. S. and in 23 deg. tz min. E. longitude ;
and hating htn over the track in which the land was
fup^fcd to Ke, without feeing any, we now was well
affured the i^ee i^ahds had deceived Mr. Bouvet ; as at
times they hatt deteived tis. Daring the night the
^md had veered to N. W. Avhich enabled us to fleer
tnorfe north ; for we had noW Uid afide all thoughts of
feafching Farther iafter French difcoveties^ and were
dfetcrmitted to direct our courfe far the Cape of Good
Hope^ intending only by the way to look for the ifles of
Denia, and Marfeveen, tvhich by Dr. Halley are laid
down in the latittide of 4t deg. ^ min. and 4 deg E.
longitude from the meridian of the Cape of Good
Hope. On Friday the 25th, we ftetred il. B. and were
at noon in latitude 52 deg. 52 min. S. longitude 26 deg.
^i min. E. This day we faw the lafl ice-illand.

^'' On Wedilcfcla:y the tfl of Marcjfi We Were in the lati-
itrde 6f -46 deg. 44 min. S. and in 2^ deg.'3f0 iriin. W.
longitude J and we tbok nbtice; th4't the whole time the
wind blew regular arid conftantnortbetly,. which inclu-
ided fevctal days, the weather w^S Alwsiys cloudy and
^ery bftzy *, but as foon as it came to the fouth of weft,

. it

Round the World.

3^3.

it cleared up. We alfo obfervcd, that the barometer
began to rife fevcral days before this change happened.
On the 3d, in the afternoon, we had ici^ervals of clear
weather, but at ni^t the wind blew a heavy fquall
from S. W. whereby feveral of our fails were fpUt, and
a middle ftay-favl was wholly loft. We were pow iu
latitude 41 deg. 30 min S. longitude %6 deg|. 5^ min.
E. We had not yet feen any figns of land, but a\ba-
trofles, peterels, and other fea birds, were our dajly vi^
fitors. On the nth, the wind Ihifted futjdenly froni
N. W. to S. W. which occafioned the mercury to fall a$,
fuddenly from 62 to 52 deg. fo dift'erent was the ftate of
the air between a northrly and foutherly wind.

Pn Sunday, the 12th, fome albatroffes and pctetels
weftiof,VHch proved an acceptable treat. This day
we were nearly \x^ the Ctuation, in which the ifles of
Denia arid Marieyeen are faid to lie, and not the lead
hope of finding them remained. On the 1 3th, we ftood
to N. N. W. khd at noon, bj obferyation, vjrere in lati-
tude 38 de^. 51 Ti\\ti. $.' which was above thirty miles
more than our log gave us ; to what this difference was
owing, we could ftol iieterminc. The wa.tch alfo
Ihewed that we h^d been fet to the ?aft. At this time
we were two degrees north " of the parallel in which the
ifles are laid down, but found not any encouragement
to perfevere iii our endeavours to find theni. '

This muft have confumcd more time, we think, in a
fruitlefs fearch ; and every one, all having been confined
along time to ftale and fait provifions, was imj^atieht tp
get into port. We therefore, in compliance witK the
general \vi(h, refolved to make the beflrof our vir^ to
the Cape of Good Hope. On Thurfday the 1 6th, at
day-break, wedefcried in the N. W. quarter, ftanding'
to the weftward, two fail, one of which (hewed Dutch
colours. About this time, a quarrel arofe between three

officers.

^24. Captain Cook's second Voyage

olTicers, and the fhip's cooks, which was not reconciled
without feiious confecjuences, Thofe three gentlemen,
upon lo:"ne occafion or other, entered the cook-room
with naked knives, and with oaths, unbecoming their
charac^ter, fwore th^y would take away the lives of the
firft who dared to affront ihem. It feer^is they had for-
merly met with fom^ rebuffs for the much frequenting
the cooks apartments, which bad hitherto paffed in a
joke; bat now aregiriar complaint w us laid before the
captain, of their unwarrantable behaviour, and of the
danger the jnen were in of their lives ; into which com-
plaint the captain was under the necefluy of. enquiring;
and upon finding itjuft, of confiniug the offehders in
irons. ' ' '• . ....;'. ..,.•,,

1 *

While theylwere in this fituation, the articles of war
being read, it was found that ttie oifence wasofTuchjt
nature as hardly to be determined without a reference
to a court martial, in order to which the two who ap-
peared moft culpable, were continued prifoners upon
parole, and the third was cleared. After this hufmefq
had engroffed the captain's attention, he called thei
(hip's company together, and after recounting the par-
ticulars of the voyage, the hardOiips they had met with,
the fatigues they had undergone, and the cheerfulnefs
they had conftantly (hewn in the difcharge of their du-
ty, he j^ave them to underftand, how much it Would
flill recomnfiend them to the Lords of the Admiralty, if
they would prefer ve a profound filence in the ports
they had yet to pafs and might enter, with regard to
the courfes, the difcoveriesthey had made, and every
particular relating to this voyage i and fikewife after
their return home, till they had their Lofdfhip's per-
miffion to the contrjiry 5 requiring, at the fame time,
all the officers who had kept journals to deliver them
into his cuftody, to be fealed up, and not to be opened
iilldeUyered'to their loxdfliips at the proper office. In
'' ■ ■■ ■ '''■"' '■' " ■* ( ■"" ■ ,■.'■"" ih^

* Round the Wop.LD.

3*^

the mterim they were to be locked up fafely ina cheft.
This requeft was cheerfully complied witH by every
commillioned officer. - '

Q(\\ Friday, the 17th, we obferved at noon in the 1a-
jtimde of 34 deg. 42 min. S. in the evening we faw land,
about fix leagues diftantj in the dircdion ot E.N E.
\ and there was a great fire or light upon it, throughout
' the fiift part of the night. On the 18th, at day-break,
we fa.v, at the fame diftance, the land again, bearing
H- N. W. /V^ ^^1"^^ o'clock, we lent out 9^ boat to get
up with one of the two (hips before noticed \ we were
fo delirous 6f hearing news, that we paid no attention
to the diftance, thpugh the fliips were at lead two
leagues from us. Soon aher we ftood to the fouth, a
breeze fpringing up at weft. At this time three more
fail were feen to windward, one of which Shewed En-
glilh colours. The boat returned at one o'clock P. M.
and our people in it had been on board a Putch India-
man, coming home from Bengal; the fhip was tKeBown-
kirk Polder, the Captain Correlius Bofch. The captain
very politely made us a tender of fu gar, arrack, and of
any thing th^t could be fpared out of the fhip.

By fome Englifh mariners on board her, our people
were informed, that our confort had arrived at the Cape
of Good Hope twelve months ago ; adding that a boats
trew had been murdered and eaten by the natives of
New Zealand. Tliis intelligence fufficiently explained
the myftcrious accounts we had received from our old
friends, in Qiiecn Charlotte's Sound. On the 19th, at
ten o'clock in the morning, the Englifh fhip bore down
to us. She was the True Briton, Capt. Broadly, on
her returti from China. A letter to the fecretary of
the Admiralty was committed to the care of the cap-
tain, who gencroufly fent us fiefh provifions, tea, and
Other articles, lu thf afternoon the True Briton ftood

^26 Captain Cook's second Voyage

put to (c and we in for land. At fix o'clock, we lacked
y^iihin fivcmJiesof the (horc,diftant, as we conjeQured,
about fix leagues from cape Aquila^. Onihe zoth, we
ftood along fhore to the weft ; and on the 21 ft, at noon,
the Table Mouatain, over the Cape Town, tore RE.
by E. diftantten leagues. The next morning we an-
chored in Table Bay ; with us, in our reckoning, it was
Wednefday the 2 2d, but with the people here, lucfday
^he 21ft, wc havicig gained a day by running to the baft.
In the bay wc found fliips of different nations, among
which was an Englifh Eaft Indianian, froriiChina, bound
direftly for. England ' In this fliip Capt. Cook fent a
copy of his journal, together with fome charts and draw-
jpgs to the Admiralty. We faluted the garrifon with
thirteen guns, and the compliment was icturned with
an equal number. We now heard the deplorable ftory
pf the Adventure's boat's crew confirmed, with the ad-
dition of a falfe report, concerning the lofs of a French
ftiip upoji the fame ifland, with the total dcftruftion of
. the captain and his crew, propagated no doubt, by the
Adventure's people, to render an aft of favage barbari-
ty, that would fcarcely iidmit of aggravation, ftill more
horrible. Puf which gave us full fatisfaftion about
this matter, dipt. Furneaux had left a letter for our
commander, in which, he mentions the lofs of the boat
and ten of his men, in Queen Charlotte?s Sound,

The day after our arrival at this jfiiace, Capt. Cook,
accompanied by our gentlemen, waitedonBaronPletten-
berg, the" Dutch Governor, by whom', and his principal
officers, they were treated with the greateft politenefs i
and as ajt this place refrefliments of all kinds may "be
procured in great abundance, we now, after the nume-
rous fatigues of a long voyage began to tafte, anid en-
joy the fweets of repofe. It is a cuftom here for all the
officers to refide on fhore ; in compliance wiih which,
the captain, the two Forfters, and Mr. Sparman took
up their abode with Mr. Brandt, well known to our

countrymen

Round the W o r l t).

countrymen for his obliging rcadincfs to fcrVe thcmJ
Our people on board were not neglc died j and being
provided daily with frcfli baked bread, frelh meat,
greens, wine, «c. they were foon rcftorcd to their ufual
ftrength, and as foon forgot all pafl; hardihips and
dangers.

All hands were employed now to fuppfy all our de-
fcfts, Almoft every thing except the (landing rigging
was to be replaced anew j and it is well known the
charges here for naval ftoi-es are moft exorbitant ; for
the Dutch both at the Cape and batavia, take a fcan-
dalous advantage of the diflrefs of foreigners. That
our calks, rigging, fails, 8cc. fliould be in a fhatterc4
\\ condition, is eafily accounted for. In circumnaviga<
ting the globe, we mean, from leaving this place to
our return to it again, we had failed no lefs than fixty
thoufand miles, equal nearly to three times the equa-
torial circumference of the earth j but in all thi . run,
which had been made in all latitudes, between 9 and
M deg. we fprung neither low-mads nor top-mafts ; nor
uroke fo much as a lower, or top -mad fliroud. At
the Cape, the curiofity of all nations was excited, to
learn tht fuccefs of our difcoveries, and in proportion
to th€ earneftnefs of t' folicitatio.is, wherewith the
common men were preiTed, by foreign inquifitors, they
took care to gratify them with wonderful relations.
Hence many ftranRc ftories were circulated abroad, be-
fore it was known by the people at large at home, whe-
ther the Refolution had perifhed at fea, or was upon her
tetum to Europe*.

K I'

During our ftay here teveral foreign fliips put ia aiid
went out, bound to an^ from India, namely, Engliib'^
French, Danes, and three Spaniih ilups, two going ta^
and one returning from Manilla. We believe it is but
lat^ly^ that ^ihip? of this nation have touched here ^

and

R^R

^P"PPWWrr^

J2f Captain (!Iook*s second VovAci

and thcfe were the fii^ tc Aiorh were allowed the fame
privi'lcgeS as other European flates. We now loft no
time in patting all thmgs in readinefs to complete our
toyagc ; but we were obliged to unhang our rndder;
and were a Wb delayed for want of caulkers ; and it was
abfolatfely neceflary to caulk the iliip before we put to
fea.

011 the 26th of April, this work was finished, and
having got on board a freili fiipply of provifions, and
all neccfeiry flores, we took leave of the governor,
and hi* principal officers. On the 27th, \ve went on
boartl^ and fo on after, the Wind coming fair, we weigh-
ed and put to fea; When under fail xs^e faluted the
garrifon as is cnftorAary, , and they retlTrned the com-
plement. When clear of the bay We parted company
with (omt of the fliips who failed out with us : the
Daiiiflidiip fteei-cd for t^he End Indies, the Spaniih fri-
gate, fono, for llurope^ ahd we and the!Dutton India-
Man, :for St. Helena. Depending on the goodnefs of
Mr. KendalPs watch, "ive determined to attempt to make
the ifland by a dircft courfe. The wind, in general,
blew faint all the pa:ffage^ which m?ide it longer than

coninion.

-.'■./ -fcao..

)i!o"l

»<j ui'-iiJil'!;}'

-iiia'h'd^ drftanffonrteen leagn^s, and anchored, at itiid-
nfgiit, 1)efore ^he tov;fi, on the N. W. ilde of the ifland.
Gavern'or Skettowf , and the gentlemen of the iflandy
treated us, while we continued- here, with the great eft
courtefy. In our narrative of Capt. Codk*s foriner
yoyage. we have given ^ full .description of thip ifla^ ;
t(f;W* ;T)^ft' ftiAlfd^l^ ' aHil^'^liarftife^ inhabitants are
§stt''koia excrdfing' a wantoii' cruelt)^ t6W|rds' ^hdir"
flaVes. We,' afe i infcirftie4 ajfp, ' ih^t ' Whe'd carri'd^e^
and /pdrtc;^ knots have' been', in nfe anitiiig; them for
aitiny^ytars;' 'Within thefc three yeaw a new chiirch

tie fame
loft no
ete our
rudder,;
t it -w'as
: put to

;d, and

ns, and
vernor,
vent on
weigh-
ted the
le com-
^mpany
Q? : the
niih fri-
ll India-
hiefs of
make
general,
er than

[aW.t^fie

lat ttiid-

illand,

iflandv

;reateft

foriiier

ifla^ ;

its Are

1? Oti N D T H E W R L tl

I' 9

lem for
:hiirch

iias been built j foiiie other new buildings are erciJling,
a commodious landing-place for boats has been made,
and other ir-provemisnts, which add both ftrength and
beauty to the place; Here we finiflied fomc nccelTary
tepaifs, which we had not time to complete during our
flay at iUeCape. Our empty water caflcs were alfo fil-
led, and the (hip's company had freih beef, at five-pence
per pound. This article of refrelhment is very good^
and the only oiie to be procured tvorth mentioning.

On the 2 1 ft, in the eveilihg, we took leave of" the
governor, and then repaired on board. The Duttori
Indiaman, in company with us, was ordered not to fall
in with Afcenfioii, for which We fteered, on account
of 911 illicit trade, carried on between the Company*;?
fliips, Jind fome veflel^ ffoni Nbrth America, who of:
late years, had vifited the ifland on pretence of iiftiing,
when their real defigti was to wait the coming of the
hidia ftiips: The Duttori was therefove ordered td
fleer N. W. by W. or N. W;^ till to the northward of
Afcenfion. With this ftiip we' were in company till tne
24th, when we parted, A packet for the Admiralty
was put on board, and ftie continued her courfe N,' "W»

Oil the 28 th, we niade the ifland of AfcenTiori ; and
hn the evening anchored in Crofs Bay, in the N. W.
fide, half a mile from the iliore, in ten fiithoms water;
The Crofs-hill, foi called on account of a flag-ftaff erecl-
td upbn h in fotm of a crofs, bore S." 3$ C^tg. E. an<t
and the two extreme points of the bay extended from
N; E. to S. W. We had feveral fiftiing parties out eve^'
ry night; and got about twenty-four turtles, weighing
betwceft four iind five hundred weight each» This was
our principal objcf^; though we might have had at
plentiful fupply of fifti in general. We have no wcrjc?
feen old wives in fuch abundance j alfo t^yjilics^ coov
gor eels, and various other forts,

5|cr Captain Cook's second Voyaci

. This iflJind lies in the dire^fcion N. W. and S. E. and
is ten miles broad, and five or fix long. Its furface is
very barrcili and fcareely produces a ihrttb,,plant, or
any, kind of vegetation, in the fpace of many miles j
inftead of which we faw only ftones and fand, cmt rather
ifiags and allies: henee from the general appearance of
the face of this ifland, it is more than probable, that
at fome time, of which we have no account, it has
been deftroyed by a volcana We met with in our ex-
curfions a fmooth even furface in the intervals between
the heaps of ftones; but as one of our people obferved,
you may as eafily walk over broken glafs botttes as over
the ftones ; for if you flip, or make a falfe ftcp, you
iare fure to be cut or lamed. At the S. E. end of the
ifle is a high mountain, which leems to have been left
in its original ftate ; for it is covered with a kind of
yhite iharl^ producing purflain, fpurg, and one or two
forts of girafsi On thefe the goats feed, which are to
be fouria in this part of the ifle. Here arc good land
'crabs, and the fea abounds with turtle from January to
June; They always confie oti fliore to lay their eggs in
the tiiglrt, iivheli they are caught by turning them on
their backs, in which pofition they are left on the beach
lill the iiext morning. When the turtle-catchers fetch
them awayi We ai-e inclined to think, that the tur»
ties come to this illand merely for the purpofe of lay-
ing their eggs, as we found none but females ^ nor had
tfcofe we caught any food in their ftomachs. We faw
alfo near this place abundatice of aquatic birds, fuch as
tropic birds, men of war, boobies, &c. On the N. E.
fide wc found the remains of a wreck ; flie fcemed to
have been a veflel of one hundred and fifty tons bur*
then. We were informed, that there is a fine fpring in
a valley between two hills, on the top jf the mouii-
tain above mentioned; befides gieat quantities of frefli
•water in holes in the rocks. While the Refolution lay
in the road, a iloop belonging to New* York anchored

Round the Won lb.

33f

fby her. She had been to the coalt of Guinea with 9.
cargo of goods, and came here under a pretence to take
in turtle ; but her real intention was, we believe, to
traffic with the officers of our homeward bound £afl--
Ipdiainen ) for (he had lain here near a week, and had
got on board twenty turtle j whereas ailoop from Ber-
muda, ihad failed but a few days before, with one hun-
dred and five on board, which were as many as Ihe
couW ta^e in j but having turned feveral more on dif^
ferent beaches, they inhumanly ripped open their bel-
iies, for the fake of the eggs, and teft the carcafes to
putrefy. The center of this ifland of Afccnfion is fitu-
atcd in the lat. of 8 dcg. §. and in 14 deg. 28 min. 30
^ec. W. longitude. "

On the 31ft of May, we departed from the ifland of
Afcenfion, and fleered with a fine gale at S. E. by E.
for that of Fernando de Noronha, on the coafl of Bra-
fil, in order to determine its longitude. In Our paiTage
to this place, yre had very good weather, r.ud fine moon
light nights, which afforded us many opporiiuiities of
making lunar obfervations. On the 9th i>f June wc
made the ifland, which had the appearance of feverai
detached hills j the largeft of \yhich very muc' refera-
bled the fteeple of a church. As we adva.. ^ and
drew near it, we found the fea broke in a violent furf
on fome funken rocks, which lay about a league froni
the fhore. We ppw hoifted Englifh colours, and bore
up round the north end pf the ifle, which is a group of
little iflbts ; for we perceived plainly^ that the land was
unconneifted and divided by najrow channels. On one
of thefe, next the main, are ieveral flrong forts, ren-
dered fo by the nature of their fituation, ^yhich i^s fuck
as to command all the- anchoring and landing places^
about the ifland. We continued to fail round the north-^
cm point, till the fandy beaches, b'^fore which is the,
yoad for Ihipping, and the forts were open to the wefl:-

ward

* —

^3* Ca?TAIN iCoOKfs SECOND VoyAG|!

jW'jird of the faid point. As the RefoUitlon advanced, a
gun was fired, and immediately the Portugueze colours
>vere difplayed on all the forts.: but not intending to flop
here, we fired a gun to the leeward, and flood away to
the northward, -yvith a frefli breeze. The-hill which ap-
pears like a church tower, bore S. 27 deg. W. 5 miles
diflant; and fiom our pre lent point of view it appeared
to lean, or over-hang to ti:e E. Fernando de Noronhi
is in no part more than 6 leagues h: extent, and exhibits
an unequal fnrface, well cloithed with wood and her-
bage. Its latitude is 3 de^. 53 min. S. and its longi-
tude carried on by the watch, from St. Helena, is 32
deg. 34 min, W,' Don iVntonio d'UUoi, in his ac-
count of this ifland, fays, " that it hath 'cwo harbour$,
capable of receiving fliips of the greateft burden ; one
is on t'heHorth fi e, and the other' on ■ the N; W. ^ The
formei" is, in every refpeO, the • principal, both for
flicker and capacioufnefs, and the goodnefs of its bot-
tom ; but both are expofed to the north and weft, though
thefc winds, particularly the north, aire periodical, and
of no long continuance. You atichor in.thc north har-
bour (which Capt. Cook called a road) in thirteen fa-
jhoms water, one third of a league from the (hore, bot-
tom of fine fand ; the peaked hill bearing S. W. 3 deg.
foutherly." This road, or (as Ulloa terms it) harbour',
is very fecure for Ihipping, being fheltcred from the
fouth and call winds, ^

On the nth, at three o'clock P. M. in long. 32 deg.
14 min. we crofled the line. We had fqually weather
from the E. S. E. with fhowers of fain, which continued
at times till the I2th, and on the 13th the wind became
variabe. At noon we were in lat. 3 deg. 49 min. N.
and in 31 dieg. 47 min. W. long. We had now for
^oft part of theday, dark gloomy weather, till the
pening of the I5tb, at which time we were in lat. 5
deg. 47 rnin. N. and in 31 deg. W. lon^. Afterth\s
' ■ ....'""' " ...... ' ' / wg

^p"w«w^pinipp

Royj^D THE WORJ-D.

333

we had three fucceflive calm days, in which we had fair
weather, and rains ajternately ; and fometimes the iky
vvas obfcured by denfc clouds, which broke in very
hpavy flipwcrji of rain.

On the 1 8th, we had a breeze at E. which fixed at'K.
p. and we (Iretched to N. W. As we advanced to the
Jvl. thfegale increafed. On theziftCapt. Cook ordered
the ftili to be fet to work, with a view of making the
greateft quantity poflible of frerti water. To try this
experiment the ftill was fitted to the largeft copper we
had, which held about 64 gallons of lalt water. At
four o'clock, A. M. the fire was lighted, and at fix the
^ill began to run. The operation was continued till '
fix in the evening: at which time we had obtained 32
gallons of frefli water. At noon the next day, the mer-
cury ift the thermometer was 84 and an half, as high
as it is generally found to rife at fea. Had it been low-
er, more yvater would have been procured; for it is
well known, that the colder the air is, the cooler the
ftill may \>t kept, " whereby the fleam will be condenfed
fader.'. The invention upon the whole is a ufeful one,
but it would not be prudent for a navigator to truft
wholly to it ; tor tho' with plenty of fuel, and good
coppers, as fnuch water may be obtained, as w ill be
heceflary to fupport life, yet the utmoft efforts that can
be employed in this work, will not procure a fufficicncy
to fupport health, efpe'cially in hot climates, where frelh
water is rnoft wanted j and in the opinion of Captain
Cook, founde4 on experience, the beft judge of this
matter, nothing can contribute more to the health
of feamen, than their having plenty of (weet frefli

water.

On the 25th, we were in latitude 16 dcg. 12 min.
N. and in 37 dcg. 20 min. W. longitude. Obfcrving
i, ihip to windward, bearing down upon us, we ihortch-

»• • , ■ • • . * • ed

J34 Captain Cook's SECOND VoYAejB

<d fail ; but on her approaching, we found by her cor
lours 0ie was Dutch ; we therefore made fail again, and
left her to p.urfue her .courfcr On the 2fith, we obfcr-
vcd in the latitude of ai ,dcg. zi'mhu N. longitude ^o
^eg. 6 min. W. and oar ^ourfe made good was N. by
W. On the 3,0th, a fliip pidTcd us within hale; but
file was prefently o*?t of figlit, and we judged her to be
£ngliih. We were uowin the latitude of 24 dcg. 20'
inin. N. longitude 40 deg. 47 min. W. In latitude 29
dcg. 30 min. we faw fome fea-plants, commonly called
gulpli weed, becaufe it is fuppofed to come from the
gulph of Florida ^ it may be fo, and yet it certainly ve-
gitates at fea. We continji^cd to fee this plant in fmall
pieces, till in the latitude of 3$ dcg. N. beyond whicU
parallel we faw no more of it.

Ob the 5th of July, the wind veered to the eaft j
$ind the next day it was calm. On the 7th and 8t^
we had variable light airs i but on the 9th, the uind
fixed *t S. S. W. alter wlych we had a freih gale, and
fteeied $itfirftl;I. £. and then £. N. £. our intention be-
ing to make fome of the Azores, or Weftern ifles. On
the nth, we were in lat 60 deg. 45 min. N. and in 36
dcg. 45 min. W. longitude, when we defcried a fail
fleering to the wefti and on the 12th, came in fight of
three more. ^

On the 1 3th, we made the ifland of Faya!, and oa
the 14th, at day -break, we entered the bay of De
Horta, and at eight o*clock anchored in |Jo fathoms
water, about half a mile from the (hore. Our dcfign
in touching at this place, was to make obfcrvations,
from whence might be drtermined with Accuracy the
longitude of the Azores. We were direfted by the
mafter of the port, who came on board before we caft
anchor, to more N. E. and S. W. in this illation, the
S. W. point of the bay bore S. 16 dcg. W. and the N.

' E. point,

■■■m

RoUNJi THE "W 6 vii tJ

335

ind oa
)f De

horns
dcfign

itiODSy

y the
the
caft
the

heN.

E, point, N. 33 deg. E. The church at the N* E. end
of the town N. 38 deg. W» the weft point of St,
George's ifland N. 42 deg. E. diftant eight leiagues^
and the ifle of Pico extending from N. 74 deg. E. to
S. 46 deg. £. diftant five miles. In the bay we found
the Pourvoyer, a large French frigate, an Anjericaa
flocp, and a brig belonging to Fayal.

On the 14th, the captain ftntto theconful* andnoti'
fied our arrival to the governor, begging his pcrmiffioii
to grant Mr. Wales an opportunity to make his obferva-
tions on fliore. This was readily gramed, and Mr. Dent
who a£ted as conful in the abfence of Mr. Gathorne,
not only procured this permiiHon, but accommodated
Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden to fet
up his inftruments ^ and in feveral other particulars, this
gentleman difcovered a friendly readinefs to oblige us :
even his houfe was always at our command both night
and day^ and the entertainment we met with there was
Hberal and hofpitable. All the time we ftaid at thi$
place, the crew of our fliip were fupplied with plenty
of frcfti beef, and we purchafed about 50 ton& of water^
at the rate of about three fliHlings per ton. To hire
fiiore boats is the moft general cuftom hete> though
fliips are allowed,, if they prefer many inconveniencics
to a trifling cxpence, to water with their own boats.
Frefii provifioBS may be got, and hogs, fiieep, and poul-
try, for fca-ftock, at reafonable rates. The ftiecp are
not only fmall, they are alfo very poor ; but the bul-
locks and hogs are exceeding good. Here k plenty of
wine to be had.

Before we proceed with our own obfervatioiw, made
during our abode at Fayal, it may be agreeable to our
readers, to give them a brief account and dcfcription
of all the Azores, or Weftern Iflands. Thtk have by

different

(

33$ Captain Gook's fficoftt) VoYAoi'

difFcrcnf geograplicrs, been varioufly deemed parts of
^America, Africa, and Europe, as they are almoft in jt
central point ; but We apprehend they rtay with more
propriety be confidered as belonging to the latter.
They are a group of iflands, fituated' in the Atlantic
ocean^ betwceen 25 and 32 deg. of W; long." and be-
tween 37 and 40 N. lat. 900 .miles W. of Portugal,
and as many eaft of Newfoundland. They are nine in
number, viz. St. Taria, St. Miguel, or St. MichAcI,
Terceira, St. George, Graciofa, Fayal, Pico, Flores;
BTidCorvo.

»Vj» tit * ■ ' * •».!

I ■ - ■ . , .

Thcfc iflands were firft difcovered by fome FlemifH
fliips in 1439, and afterwards by the Portuguefe in
1447, to whom they now belong. The two weftern-
moft were named Flores and Corvo, from the abun^
dance of flowers on the one, and crows on the other.
They are all fertile, and fubjc^t to a governor-general,-
"Who refided at Angra in Terceira, which is alfo the feat
of the bifliop, whofe droceitfe extends over all the
Azores. The income of the lattef. Which is paid inf
wheat, amounts to afbovit 200I. ItcrHng per year. . On
every ifland there is a deputy governor. Who direftit
the police, militia, and revenue;' and a jilix 6r judge, is
at the head of the law department, from whom lies ait
appeal to a higher court at Terceira, and from thence
to the fuprcme court at Lilbon. The natives of thefe
iflands are very litigious. , .

St. Miguel, the largeft, is too miles in circumference;
contains about 29,000 inhabitants, and is very fertile iri
wheat and flax. Its chief town is Panta dtl Gado. This
ifland Was twice ravaged by the Englifli in the time of
Queen Elizabeth.

Terceira is reckoned the chief ifland, on account of
hs having tl>e bell harliour ^ and 'm chief town, named

OU N D THE

yl7

O RLti

35f

Angra, being the refu^ence of th6 governor-general and
the bishop. The tow i contains a cathedral, five other
churches, eight convenes, -ftveral courts of officers, &c.
and is defended by tti/o forts.

The ifland of Pico, to called from a mountain of
^aifl: height, produces excellent wine, cedar, and
a valuable wood, called teixos. On the fouth of
the ifland is the pmcipal harbour, called Villa das
Lagehs.

iThc inhabitants of Floi-es having been many years
ago infcfted with the venereal difeafe by the crew of a
Spanish man of war; that was wrecked upon their coaft,'
the evil, it is faid, ftill mainitaifls its ground there, none
of the inhabitants being free from it, as in Peru, and
fome parts of Siberia.

Travellers rfclate, that ■nopoifonousorvenommis ani-
mal is to be found in the Azores, and that if carried.
thither, it will expire in a few hours. One tenth of
all their produftions belong to the king, and the' arti-^
cle of tobacco brings in a confiderable fum, The wine
called Fayal wine^ is chiefly raifed in the ifland of Pico^
which lies oppofitt t6 Fayai. Troiti eighteen to twenty
thousand pipes of that wiue are made ^tierc yearly. All
of ihefe iflands enjoy a falubtious" air, but are expofed
to violeilt earthquakes^ from which they have frequently
fuffered.

Villa de Horta, the chief toWn ift Fayd, like all thfc
towns belonging to the Portugucfe, is crowed witfe
fcligioHS buildings ; there being no Icfs in^ this little;
tity, th'aii three convents for men, and two for women,'
Here are alfo eight churches, including thofe belonging
to the convents, atid that in the Jcfuits college. Thhf
tollege is a noble ftru^ure, and feated on an el^atioii
Numb. 15. U tt , at

338 Captain Cook's Second Voyags

in the pleafanteft part of the city. Since the expul-
fion of that order, it has been fuffercd to go to decay,
and, in a few years, by the all confuming hand of time,
may be reduced to a heap of ruins. The principal
produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which
the inhabitants fupply Pico, which in return fends
them wine more than fufEcient for their confumption,
great qnantities being annually (liipped from De Horta
(for at Pico there is no road for (hipping) for America,
whence it has obtained the name of Fayal wine.

The villa de Horta is fituated at the bottom of a bay,
clofe to the edge of the fea. It is defended by two
caftles, one at each end of the town, and a ftone work
extending along the fea ftiore from the one to the other.
But thefe works ferve more for (hew than defence. Be-
fore this villa, at the eafl end of the ifland, is the bay ot
road of Fayal, which faces the weft end of Pico. It is
a femi-circle, about two miles in diameter ; and its
depth, or femi^diameter, is better than three fourths of
a mile.

Upon the whole, we by no liieans think this road of
Fayal a bad one. We were informed, by a Portuguefe
captain of the following particulars, which, if true, are
not unworthy of notice* This Portugiiefe told us, that
i«r the direftion of S. E« about half a league from the
road, and in a line between that and. the ibuth fides of
Pico, lies a concealed funken rock, covered with 22
fathoms water, and on which the fea breaks from the
fouth. He alfo gave us to underftand, that of all the
iboals about thefe iiles that are laid down in our charts,
and pilot books, only one has any cxiftence, which lies
between the iilands of St. Mary and St. Michael, called
Hormingan. He further informed us, that ihe dif-
tance between Fayal and the ifland of Flores, is turty-
fivc kauges ; and that there runs <a ftrong tide be-

'<*:

iAivecft

RouKD THE World.

33a

t^^rccn Fayal and Pico, the flood fetting to the N. E. ancj
the ebb to the S. W. but out at fea, the direftion is caft
and weft. By various obfervations, the true longitude
of this bay was found to be 28 dcg, 39 min. 18 fee. and
a half.

On the 1 9th, at four o'clock A. M. we failed out of
the bay, and (leered for the weft end of St. George's
tOand. Having pafTed this, we (haped our courfe E.
baif S. for the illand of Terceira ; and after a run of
fourteen leagues, we found ourfelves not more than one
league from the weft end. We now proceeded as ex-
peditioufly as the wind would permit for England ; and
9n the 2i^th, we made the land near Plymouth.

/
On the 50th, we caft anchor at Spithead, when Capt.
Cook, in company with Meffrs. Wales, Forfters, and
Hodges, landed at Portfmoijth, arid from thence fet
out for London, The whole time of our ablence from
England was three years and eighteen days ; and owing
to the unbounded goodnefs of an Almighty Preierver-,
who indulgently favoured our attempt, andfeconded.
our endeavours, notwithftanding the various changes
of climates, (and they were as various as can be experi-
enced) we loft only one man by ficknefs, and three by
other caufes. Even the iingle ciccumftance of keeping
the lhip*s company in health, by means of the greateS
care and attention, will make thi^ voyage retnarkable in,
the opinion of every human perfon $ and we truft the
grand end of this expedition, and the purpofes for which,
we were fent into the fouther hemifphere were diligently
^nd fufficicntly purfued. ^^

The Refolution made the circuit of the fouthera
ocean in a high latitude, and Capt. Cook traverfed it '
in fuch a manner, as to leave no room for a mere pof-
iibility of there being a continent, unlefs near the iK)le,

340 Captain Cook's SECOND Voyage

and conreqiiently out of the reach of navigation. How-
ever, by having twice explored the trophical fea, the
fituation of old difcoverics were determined, and a num-
ber ojf new ones made; fo that, we flatter ourfelveF,
upon the whole, the intention of the voyage has, though
not in every refpe<ft, yet upon the whole, been (uffici-
ently anfwered; and by having explored fo minutely
the fouthem hemifphere, a final end may, perhaps, be
put, to fearching after a continent, in that part of the
globe^ whiQh has* of late years, and,, indeed, at times,
for the t-wo laft centuries, engroiled the attention of
ibnae of the maritime powers, and been a favourite thei
dry a^noiig geographers of all ages. The probability
of thert being a continent, or large tradlof land, neiar
^he Pole, has been already granted ; and we may have
feen part of it. The extreme cold, the numbcrlefs
irflan^s, and the ya0 6oat« of ice, give ftrengjih to
this conje6)rur&,. an4 all tend to prove, . that tliere
mud be main land to the Qyathy but that- this mu(^
toend fa^theft to the north, oppofite to the (buthern
AtiantiQ and Indian oceans, we have already afligned
fever-al reafon&i of which one is, the greater de-^
gree of cold jo thefe Teas, than in the fouthera Fa*
cific Occaa^. und^r the fame parallels of latitude; for
in this lail ocean, the mercury in the theninonieter feldom
fell fo low a§ the feezing point, tUJ we were in latit^jde
60 deg. and upwards v wjbcrcas in, die other oceans, it
fell as low in the latitude of 54 deg. the^ caufe whereof
Vfc attributed to a gEcater quantity of ice, wliich ex-
tended f^lrtber iiorth in the Atlantic ^ Itidian oceans^
than in the (ouick Facific fea ; and fuppofmg the ice to
be firft formed, at, or near land,' of which we ar« fully
pcrfuadcd, ic will be an undeniable confcqucncc, that
the land e:^tends ferthcr north; But what benefit can
accrt^e from lands thus fituated', fjfkdMld. they be difco-
vcred ? lands doomed to everlafting frigidnefp.;. and
^bofe horrible afid favage afpe^t no language or words

-*■'• r .''■ ^- ■•■-'••■■ - ^, •• -'v ■ ■•' • •■■ V • . ' ■ cast

Vuii

-n-

^ o u N D T II E World.

34»

can cjefcribe. Will any one venture farther in fearch
after fuch a country, than our brave and ikilful com-
itianckr has done ? Let him proceed, and may the God
of univcrfal nature be his guide. We heartily wifh him
fuccefs, nor will we envy him the honour of his dif-
covery'. We will venture to fay, that this narrative is not
defeftive iii point of intelligence, that the fafts arc true,
and that the whole is exprelTcd in an eafy ftile, which, wc
flatter ourfclves will not be difpleafmg' to our numerous
friends, whofe favours we here take the opportunity of
gr.itefull^ aclcnowledging. it has been obierved, that
the principal oJScers of the Refolution deUvercd their
journals into the cuftody of Capt. Cook ; and, on his
arrival ui England, Capt. Furneaux alfo put into his
bands a narrative of what lwpp«ned iiv the Adrventure
after hor, final reparation ffom the BSefolution^ Bot
it is here neceilai^y ip remark fiir^h«r> that fome of%
iicers in bothfl^p&reTorvttd their private journals, md
certain, in^eniquft nneniorials, to gratify the curioliity' of.
their friends. From fuch maieriala tbefe (heet& are
compofed i nor have we had recourf<a to any (^rinted'auH
thontit :. V it from the folc view of correfting error9
in fome plaices, and. rendering this undertaking a. full,
compreheniive and perfedl work. This pnonnfed* wo
Ai^l now lay l)cfore our readers a complete narrqiivo

Qf Qapt, Farneaux's^prpceedingS) in the /iidv£nture«

L. * ■ • . " .

E lid.

"trrr^

•342 Captain Cook's secokd Voyaq^

A new, accurate, ftill, and complete account of Capt,
[ ;Furneaux*s proceedings in the Adventure, from the
time he was fcparated from the Refokition, to his
arrivai^in England ; wherein is comprifed a faithful
relation refpedting the boat*s crew, who were mur-
dered, and eaten by the cannibals of Queen Char-
lotte's Sound, in $Tew Zeal^jd.

. InOiftober, 1773, we made the coaft of New Zea-
land, after a paflage of fourteen days from Amilerdam,
and ftood along (hore till we reached Gape Turnagain,
when a heavy ftorm blew us off the coaft for three days
fucceflively, in which time ;ve were feparated from our
confort, the Refokition, and faw her not afterwards,
in the courfe of her voyage.

. OnThurlday, the 4th of November, we regained the
(hore, near to Cape Pallifer. Some of the naiives
brought U8 in their canoes abundance of cray fifhand
fkuit, which th^y exchanged for our Otaheitc cloth,
nails, 8cc. On the 5th the ftorm again returned, and
we were driven off the ftiore a fecond tinie by a vie
lent gale of wind, accompanied by heavy falls of
fleet, which lafted two days ; fo that by this, time our
decks began to leak, or beds o: bedding were wet,
which gave many of our people colds j and now we
were moft of us complaining, and all began to defpair
of ever getting into the found, or, which we had moft
at heart, of joining the Reiblution. We combatecl
the ftorm til' Saturday the 6th, when being to the
north of the cape, and having a hard gale from S. W.

Round the Worlds

343

wc bore away for fome bay, in order to complete our
wood and water, of both which* articles we were at
prefent in great want. For fome days raft we had been
at the allowance of one quart of water, and it was
thought fix or fevcn d^ys more would deprive us cvca
of that fcanty pittance/. ; ^ ,

On the 9th, in lat. 38 deg. 21 min. S. and in 178 deg.
j7 min. E. long, we came abreaft of Tolaga bay, and
in the forenoon anchored in eleven fathoms water, ftiff
muddy ground, which lay acrofs the bay for about
two miles. This harbour is open from N. N. E. to
E. S. E. nevertheiefs, it affords good riding with a
weftcrly wind ; and here are regular foundings from
five to twelve fathoms. Wood and water are eafily
procured, except when the winds blow hard eafterly,
and then, at fuch times, which are but feldom, they
throw in a great fea.

The natives about this bay are the fame as thofe at
Queen Charlotte's Sound, but more numerous, and
have regular plantations of fweet potatoes, and other
roots. They have plenty of fifti of all forts, which
we purchafed with nails, beads, and other trifles. In
one of their canoes, we faw the head of a woman ly-
ing in (late, adorned with feathers, and other orna-
ments. It had all the appearance of life, but upon a
nearer view, we found it had been dried j yet, every
feature was in due prefervation and perfeft. We judged
it to be the head of fome deccafcd relative, kept as a
relic.

On the 1 2th, having taken on board ten tons of wn-
ter and fome wood, we fet fail for the Sound ; but we
were Icarcely out when the wind began to blow,<lead
hard on the (hore, fo that, not being able to clear the
land on either tack, we were obliged to return to the

344 Captain CooK^s second Voyage

bay, wlwre we arrived the next morning of the 13th •
land having anchored, we rode out a heavy gale of wind
at E. by S. attended wirh a very great fea. We now
began to fear the weather had pat it out of our power
tojorn oiir confort, "having rcafon to believe (he was in
Charlotte Sbund, the appointed place of rendezvouf,
and by this time ready for fea. Part of the crew were
naw employed in fto'pping leaks, and repairing our
tiggiiig^ whidi was in a inGft (battered condition.

On the 14th and i^h, we hoifted out our boats, and
fcntthcm to hKreafe om ftock of wood and water; but
on tbc ]a^ day, the furf rofe fo high, thnt they could
not make tl^ ^and. . X)h die 1 6th, having made the
fliip as fiiu'g n's pdffible, we unmooted at three o'clock
A. M. and before fiH got under wav. From this time
to the 28tTi, We had dothitig but tempefluous weather,
in which our rigging was almofl blown «o pieces, and
our men quite worn down with fatigue.

On the 49th, '<3\xi \vivtr being nearly cscpended, we
were again red«ced to the fcaniy allowance of a quart a
itiatt per diem. We contirucd beating backward and
forward till tb« 301b, wlien the weather became more
modctatfej ami having a favourable wind, we wer6
fo happy at teft as to gain v^^ifh fafety our tie(ired port.
After getting through Cook'b Streights', we caft anchor
wt three o*<:k)cfk, P. M. in Q.uecn Charlotte's Sound.
We faw nothing of the Rdblutiow, and began to
^doubt her fafety ; but upon baving todcd, \^'€ difco-
vcred the place where (he had pitched her tents ; and'
upon further examination, on an old (lump of a tree, we
tfeid thcfc Words ctit -out " Lboic liwiderneath." We
complied mft«4it^y wi^ thele i^iftria^lions, and digging,
"foon fotmd a boitfe corked and waxed down, wherein
%as a letter from Capt. Cook, informing us of their
mrxifftl lit tbts place on the 3d inftant, and their de-
^ ■ parturc

, ■'■■■jpjp-»i J .\\Mi..^^fififm^fmm

mpPKI*)

RduND THE World.

345

pasture on the 24th, aild that 'they intended fpending a
few days in the entrance of the ftraits to look for us;
We ivc tediateJy fet about the neceffary repairs of th^
iliip, with an intention of getting her to fea as foon as
poffible.

. On the tft of December, ttic tents were carried ori
(bore, the armourer's forge put up, and every prepara-
tion made for the recovery of the fick. The coopers
were difpatched on Ihore to niend the calks, and we be-
gan to unftow the hold to get at the bread ; but upon
opening the cafks, we found a great quantity of it en-
tirely fpoiled, and riioft part fo damaged, that we were
obliged to bake it over again; which unavoidably de-
layed us fome time. At int-rvals, during our ftay here;
the natives came on board as ufual with great familiari-^
ty. They generally brought fi(h, or whatever they had
to barter with us; and feemed to behave with great ci-
vility ; though twice in One nigiit they came to the
tents with an intention of ftealing, but were difcovered
iaefore they had accomplifhetl their defign. A party aU
fo Came down in the night of the 1 ^th^ and robbed the
aftronomer's tent of every thing they could carry away.
7 his they did fo quietly, that they were not fo much aa
hedrd. or fufpe<Sled; till the aftronomcr getting up to
make ah obfervation, mrlled his inftruments^ and charg-
ed the dentinal with jhe robbery. This brbught on
^ prttty fcvere altercation, during which they.fpied an
Indian creeping from the tent; at whorri Mr. Bailey fi-
red slhd wounded him; neverthelefs he nriade ft (hifttd
retreat into the. woods. The report of the gun had
alarmed his con federates, who, inftead of putting oil front
the (bore, fled into the woods, leaving their canoe, with
mod of the things that had been ftolen, a-ground oa
the beaclir This petty larceny, it is probable, laid the
foundation of that dreadful catallrophe which foon af«
tcr happened.

X X O4

J4.6 Captain Cook's second Voyage

On the iyth, at which time we were preparing foif
our departure, we fent out our large cutter, manned
with 7.feamcn, under the comrtiand ot Mr. John Rowe,
the fiift mate, accompanied by Mr. Woodhoufe. mid-
(hipman, and James -Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's
fervant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grafs
Gove, to gather greens and celery for the (hip's com-
pany ^ with orders to return that evening ; for the tents
had been ftruck at two in the afternoon, and the (hip
made ready for failing the next day. Night coming
on, and no cutter appearing, the captain and others
began to exprefs great uneafinefs. They fat up all
night, in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpofe.
At day-break, therefore, the captain ordered the
launch to be hoifted out. Slie was double manned, and
under the command of our fecond lieutenant,. Mt. Bur-
ney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman y mafter, the corpo-
ral of marines, with five private men, all well armed,
and having plenty of ammunition, two wall pieces, and
three days provifions. They were ordered firft to look
into Eaft bay, then to proceed to Grafs CoVc, and if
nothing was to be feen or heard of the cutter there, they
were to gO father up the cove, and return by the we(l
fhorc.

Mr. Row having left the fhip an hour before the
time propofed for his departure, we thought his curio-
fity might have carried him into Eaft bay, none of our
people having been there, or that fome accident might
have happened to the boat; for not the leaft fufpicion
was entertained of the natives, our boats having been
higher up, and worfe provided. Mr. Burncfy returned
abaut eleven o'clock the fame night, and gave us a
pointed defcription of a moft hdrrible fcene indeed;
the fubftance, and every material particu.lar*of whofe
report, are contained- in the following relation,

ivhich

Round the World.

347

which includes the remarks of thofe who attended
Mr. Burney.

On the i8th, purfuant to our orders, we left the
fliip, about nine o'clock in the morning. Having a
light breeze in our favour, we foon got round Long
ifland,^and Long Point. We continued failing and
rowing for Eaft Bay, keeping clofe in fliore, and exam-
ining with our glafl'es every cove on the larboard fide,
till near two o'clock in the afternoon, at which time w^
flopped at a beach on our left, going up Eaft Bay,
to drefs our dinner. While wc were cooking, we faw
an Indian on the oppofite (liore, running along a beach
to the head of a bay ; and when our meat was juft
done, we perceived a company of the natives feeming-
iy very bufy 5 upon feeing which, we got immediately
hito the boat, put off, and rowed quickly to the place
!^here the favages were alTembled, which was at the
head of the reach ; and here, while approaching, we
difcerned one of their fettlements. As we drevy near
fome of the Indians came down upon the rocks, and
waved for us to depart ; but perceiving we difregatded
them, they altered their geftures and wild notes.. /\t
this place we obferved fix large canoes hauled upon the
beach, moft of them being double onesj but the num-,
ber of popple were in proportion neither to the fizc of
thefe canoes, nor the number of houfes.

Our little company, confifting of the corporal and
his five marines, headed by Mr. Burney, now landed,
leaving the boat's crew to guard it. Upon our ap-'
proach the natives fled with great precipitation. We
followed them clofely to a little town, which we found
deferted ; but while we were employed in fcarcl^ing
their huts, the natives returned, making a (hew of re-
fiftancc ; but fome trifling prefents being made to their
chiefs, they were very foon appeafed. However, oa

v:*:

348 Captain Cook's, seconp Voyage'

our return to the boat, the fiivages again followed us,
and fome of them threw ftones. As we came down td
the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle o^
hcpatods, or long fpears, but feeing Mr. Bilrney looked
very earneftly at him, he walked about with fceming unl
concern. Some of his companions appeared tg be ter-
rified, a few trifles were given to each of them. .. '

' From the place where we now landed, the bay feemed
to run a full mile N. N. W. where it ended in a lon^
fandy beach. After dinner we took a view of the
country near the coaft with oiir glafles, but faw not a
canoe, or figns of inhabitants, after which we fired thq
wall pieces, as fignals to the cutter, if any of the peo-
ple fliouldbe within hearing. We now renewed our
fearch along the eaft fliore •, and came to another fet-
tlement where the Indians invited us alhore. We en*
quired of them about the cutter, but tliey pretende4
ignorance. They feemed very friendly, and fold us
fbmefilh. ' . .•;.■■

About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an
hour after we had left this place. We opened a (mail
bay adjoining to Grafs Cove, and here we faw a large
double canoe, juft hauled upon the beach, with tw6
men and a dog. The two favages, on feeing us ap-
proach, iniiauil/ fled, which made us fufptdl, it was
here we fliould have foine tidings of the cutter. Qn
knding, and examining the canoe, the firft thing we
faw therein were one of the cutter's ruUock ports, and
ibme fboes, one of which among the latter, was knowti
to belong to Mr. Woodhoufe, ^^

A piece of flefli was found by one of our people,
which at firft was thought to be fome of the fait meat
belonging to the cutter's men, but upon examination,
wc fuppofed it to be dog's ficfli j a moll horrid and un-

• 1 1 • '.. . (leniabls^

^fmmm

OE.

zed us,
own td
indle of
looked
ing uii-
) be ter-

fecmed
I a loni*

of the
Lw not a
fired thq
the peo-
wed our
ther fet-

We en*
retende4

fold U3

rithin an

a fmali

a large

nth. tw6

us ap-

it was

cer. Qn

[hhig we

:s, and

Is known

Round th-e World.

349

people,
tall meat
lination,
1 and un-

leniabl^

deniable proof foon cleared up our doubts, and con-
vinced us we were among no other than cannibals ; for
advancing farther on the beach, we faw about twenty
ba/kets tied up, and a dog eating a piece of broiled
flelb, which upon examining we ftifpe(5led to be human.
We cut open the bhikcts, fpme of which were full of
roafted flefh, and others of fern root, which fcrves _
jhem for bread. Searching others we found more
Ihoes, and a hand, which was immediately know;n m
have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our fore caftlc
jnen, it having been tatowed ^yith the initials of his
name.

We now proceeded a little way in the woods, but
fiiw nothing elfe. Our next dcfign was to launch the
canoe, intending to deftroy her ; but feeing a great
fraolce afcending over the nearefl hill, we made all pof-
fible hafte to be with them before fun- fct.

At half paft fix we opened Grafs Cove, where wc
(aw one fmgle, and three double canoes, and a great
piany natives aflembled on the beach, who retreated to
B fbnall hill, within a (hip's length of the water-fide, »
^'here they ftood talking to us. On the top of the
high land, beyond the woods, was a large fire, from
whence all the way down the hill, the place was
thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a
tnufquetoon was fired at one of the canoes, as we ima-
gined they niight be full of men l)Mng down : for they
were all afloat, but no one was feen in them. Being
doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear, or
a defire to decoy us into an ambufcade, we were deter-
inined not to be furprifed, and therefore running clofe
in iliore, we dropped the grappling near enough to
teach them with our guns ; but at too great a diftancc
{0 be under any apprehenfions from their treachery,
pie favages on the Uttk bill k^pt their ground, halloo-

350 Captain Cook's second Voyage

ipg, and making figns for us to land. At thefe we now
took aim, refoiving to kill as many of them as our bul-
ilets would reach; yet it was lometime before we could
diflodgc them. The firfl volley, did not feem to afFe(ft
theqi much ; but on the fecond, thf y began to fcramble
away as faft as they could, fome hov/ling and others
Jimping. We continued to fire as long as we could fee
the lead glimpfe of any of them through the bufties.
Among thefe were two very robuft men, who maintain-
pd their ground, without moving an inch, till they found
fhemfelves forfaken by their companions, and then,
difdathing to run, they marched off with great compo-
fure and deliberation. Que of theip, however, got a
fall, and lay there, or crawled away on his hands and
feet J but the other efcaped without any apparent hurt.
TSlr, Barney now improved their panic, and fupported
by the marines^ leapt on ihore, and purfued tlie fu-
gitives. -

We had not advanced far from the waier-fide, on the
beach, before we met with two bundles of celery, which
had been gathered by the cutter's crew. A brokeu
oar was (luck upright in the ground, to which the na-
tives had tied their canoes ; whereby we were convinced
this was the fpot where the attack had b>een made. We
now fearched all along at the back of the beach, to fee
if the cutter was there, but iuftead of her, the mod hor-
rible fcene was prefented to our view that was ever beheld
by any European ; for here lay the hearts, heads, an(J
Jungs of feveral of our people, with hands and limbs,
io a mangled condition, fome broiled and fome raw ;
but no other parts of their bodies, w^ich made us fuf-
pc6;, that the cannibals had fe^ed upon, and devoured
the reft.

. To complete this fliocking view of carnage and bar-
barity, at SL little diilaace, we faw the dogs gnawing their

intrails,

■If;
■i <'

OUN D THE

O RLD<

3iJ^

I'ntrails. We obfcrved a large body of the natives col-i
le(fted together on a hill about two miles off; but as night
dre\V on a-pace, we could not advance to fuch a diP-
tancc ; neither did we think it fafe to attack theffl,- or
even to quit the fliore, to take an account o*f the num-'
bcr killed, our troop being a Very fmall one, and the fa^
vages were both numerous and much irritated. While
we remained almoft flupified on the fpot, Mr. Fannen
fiiid, that he heard the cannibals affembling in the woods^
on which we returned to the boat, and having hauled
alongfide the canoes, we demoliflied three of thcmi
During this tranfafiion, the fire on the top of the hill
difappearcd, and we could hear the favages in the woods
at high words; quarreling perhaps, on account of thei^
different opinions, whether they ftiould attack us, and
try to fave their canoes.

They were armed with long lances, and weapons not
unlike a ferjeant*s halbert in (hape, made of hard wood^
and mounted with bone inftcad of iron. We fufpcfted
that the dead bodies of our people had been divided a-
mong thofe different parties of cannibals, who had
been concerned in the maffacre; and it was not tmpro*>
bable, that the group tve faw at a diflance by the fir^
Were feafting upon forae of them, as thofe on fliorchad
been, where the remains were found, before they had
been difturbed by our unexpefted vifit: be that as it
may, we could difcover no traces of more than four oiE"
our friends bodies, nor could we find the place where
the cutter was concealed. It now grew dark, on whicH^
account, we collected carefully the remains of out
mangled friends, and putting off, made the beft of our
way from this polluted place, not without a few cxccra^
tions beftowed on the blood-thirfty inhabitants. Whctl
we opeticd the upper part of the Sound, we faw a very
large fire about three or four miles higher up, which
formed a complete oval* reaching froia the top of a

hill

35a Captain Cook's Second Vo'tAOH

hill down almoft to the water-fide ; the middle fpadfcte-'
|ng inclofed all round by the fire, like a hedge. Mr.
Burney and Mr. Fannen having confuhed together^
they were both of opinion, that we could, bv an at-
tempt, reap no advantage than the poor fatisfadiion of
killing more of the favages. '

., . • ■ • • • • " •

Upon leaving Grafs Cove, we had fired a volley
fowards where we had heard the Indians talking; but
by going in and out of the boat, our pieces had got
Wet, and four of them miffed fire. What rendered our
fitnation more crhical was, it begun to rain^ and our
ammunition was more than half expended.' We, for
thefe reafons, without fpcnding time where nothing
could be hoped for but, revenge, proceeded for the
iiiip, and ar^ivid lafe aboard about midnight. Such
is the account of this tragical event j the poor
"viftims were far enough out of heai rr, and in all pro-
bability every man of them mud have been butchered
on the fpoti

It may be proper here to mention, that the whrle
number of men in the cutter were ten, namely, Mr,
Row, our firft mate, Mr. Woodhoufe, a midfliipman,
Francis Murphy, quarter-mafter, James Scvilley, the
captain's fcrvant, John Lavcnaughj and Thomas Mil-
ton, belonging to the after-guard ;• William Facey,
Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, fore?
caftie men. Moft of thefe were the ftouteft and mofi
healthy people in the Ihip, having been felefted from
our bcft feamen. Mr. Burney 's party brought oil beard
the head of the captain's fervant, with two handsj one
belonging to Mr. Rowe, known by a hurt it had re-
ceived ; and the other to Thomas Hl|!, being marked
with T. H. as before mentioned. Thefe with other
mangled remains, were inclofed in a hammock, and
with the ufual ceremony obfcrvedoa board fliips, were
, . committed

ttoTjND THB World.

354

committed to the fca. Not any of their arttis were
found ; nor any of their clothes, except fix ftioes^ no
two of which were feliows, a frock4 and a pair of
trowfers. We do not think this melancholy cataftrophe
was the cfFe^ of a premeditated plan, formed by the
fiivages i for two canoes came down, and continued
ail the forenoon in Ship Cove, and thcfe Mr. Rowe met^
and bartered with thie natives for fome fifli. We arc
rather inclined to belieVe, that the bloody trarifaftioii
originated in a quarrel with fome of the Indians, which
was decided on the fpot ; of^ our people rambling
about too fecure, and incautious, the fairnefs of the op-
portunity might tempt them to commit the bloody deed^
and what might encourage them was, they had found
ontj that our guns were not infallible; they had feea
them mifs fire, and they kneWj that when difcharged,
they mull he loaded before they could again do any
execution, which interval of time they could take proj
per advantage of it. FronS fome circuniftances we con-
eluded^ that after their fuccefs, there was a general
meeting on the eaft fide of the found* We knov/ the
hudians of Shag Cove were there, by a long fmgle ca-
noe, which fome of our people with Mr. Rowe had
feen before in Shag Cove* «. -

After this (hocking affair, Wc Were detained fout
days in the Sound by contrary winds, in which tmt
\vc faw none of tTie inhabitants* It is a little remark-
able, that Capt. Furneaux had been feveral times up
Grafs Cove vith Capt. Cook, where they faw no in*
habitants, and no other figns of any, but a few dc*
ferted villages which appeared as if thy had not bccil
occupied for many years j and yet, in Mr. Burncy's
opinion, when ^ entered the fame cove, there could
not belefs than fifteen hondred or two thoufand pebple*
Had they been apprifed of his coming, we doubt not,
they would have attacked him ; and feeing not ai

Yy probarbility

354

Captain Cook's second VoVaob

probability remained of any of our people being
alive, from thcfc confiderations, we thought it would
be imprudent to renew the fearch, and fend a boat up
again.

On Thurfday tltc 25d of December, wc departed
from, and made fail out of the Sound, heartily vexed
at the unavoidable delays we had experienced, fo con-
trary to our fanguine wilhes. We flood to the caftward
to clear the Straits, which we happily effcfted the fame
evenings but we were baffled for two or three days with
light winds before we could clear the coafl. In this in-
terval of time, the chefts and effefts of the ten men
Nyho had been murdered, were fold bef()re the mart, ac-
cording to an old fea cuftom. We now (leered S.S.E.
till we got into the latitude of 56 deg. S. At this time
we had a great fwell from the fouthwafd, the winds
.blew ilrong from S. W, the weather began to be very
cold ; the fea made a continual breach over the ihip,
which was low and deep laden, and by her continual
ftriiining, very few of our feamen were dry either on
deck or in bed. In the latitude of 58 deg. S. and in 213
deg. £. long, we fell in with fome ice, and (landing to
the eaft, faw every day more or Icfs. We faw alfo the
birds common in this va(l ocean, our only companions,
and at times we met with a whale or porpoife> a feal or
two, and a few penguinsr

On the I oth of January, i774> we arrived a-brca(lof
;Cape Horn, in the^Jat of 61 deg. S. and in the run from
.Cape Pallifer in New Zealand to this cape, we were lit-
tle more than a month, which izi deg. ot long, in that
fhort time. The winds were continually wefterly, with
a great fea. Having opened feme calks of peas and
flour, we found them very much damaged; for which
reafon we thought it moft prudent to make for the Cape
of Good Hope, inteoding firft to get into the lat. and

long.

Round the World.

355

long. -of Cape Circumcifion. When > the eaflward of
Cape Horn, we found the winds came more from the
north, and not fo flrong and frequent from the weft-
ward, as ufual, which brought on thick foggy weather 5
fo that for feveral days together, we were not able to
make an obfervation, the lun all the time not being vi-
fiblc. This weather lafted above a month, in which
time wc were among a great many iflands of ice, which
kept us conftantl)^ on the look out, for fear of Vunning
foul of them, Our people now began to complain of
colds, and pains in their limbs, on account of which
we hauled to the northward, making the latitude of
54 dcg. S. We then fteered to the eaft, with an in-
tention of finding the land laid down by M. Bouvet.
As we advanced to the eaft, the nights began to be dark,
and the iflands of ice became niore numerous and dan-
gerous^

On the 3.d of March, we were in the hit. of Bouvet'a
difcovery, and half a league to eaft ward of it; but not
perceiving the leaft fign, of land, cithex: now, or fince
wc attained this parallel, we gavd-over a furth^j: fcarcl\
aiftcr it, and hauled away to th^ iior.4»Wardjt^

In our laft ti:a£^ to the Couth wafdv we were within a;
fbw degrees of the longitude affigned fuc Bouvct's dif-.
covery, and about three degrees to the fip^uthward ; \i
therefore they (hould be any land thereabouts, it mufli
be a very cohfiderable lOand \ or rather, we are inclined;
to think, a mere deception from the ice ; for, in our
£rft fetting out, we concluded we had made difco-
,Teries of land feveral times, which proved to be only
high iflands of ice, at the back of large fields, which,
M. Bouvet might eafily nuftake for land, efpeciaily aa
it v^as thick foggy weathcrf

'- " cs^.

It« ttut,.-. '**»-'

•■■Ak

M-

.- '»■

mm^m

I. J ■ w. iw^»«p«

35^ Captain Cook's Second Voyage

■■■•'' ■, ■ ' , .■ '#•

On the 17th, in the latitude 48 deg. 30 mm. S. arifd
in 14 deg. 26 min. E. longitude, we faw two large
iflands of ice, On the i8tb, we made the land of the
Cape of Good Hope, and on the iptb, anchored in Ta-
ble Bay. 'Here we found Commodore Sir Edvvaid
Hughes, with his majefty's fhips Salilbury, and Sear
Horfc. Wc falured the garrifon with thirteen guns,
and the Commodore with an equal number ; the Tatter
ictufned the full complement, and the former as ufua!,
faluied us with two guns lefs. At this place Capt. Fur-
ncaux left a letter for Capt. Cook ; and here we re-
mained to refit the (hip, refrefti the people, Sec. Set.
till the 1 6th of April, when wehoifted fail for England ;
and on the 14th of July, to the great joy of all our failors^
anchored at 3pJthead. ' -

, Froin a review of the whole, our readers muft fee,
how much this nation is indebted to that able circum-
navigator Capt. Cook. If they only compare the courfe
the Refolution fleered, and the valuable difcovcrics
Ihe made, with that purfued by th^ Adventure, afte^
ihe patted company, the contrail will be fufficlenUy
Itriking. How rnctetorious mufi: alfo that perfon appear
in our judgment, who hath not only difcovered, but
purveyed vaft tra<5ls of new coafts ; who has difpelled
the iruFion of a terra auft talis incognita, and fixed the
bounds of the habitable earth, as well as thofe of the
navigable ocean, in the fouthern hemifphere. No pro-
pofition was eveir more dearly demonftrated, that there
is no continent undifcovered in the fouthisrn hemifphere,
between the equator and the 50th deg. of fouthern lut.
in which fpace all who h^vc contended for its exiftencc
have included, if not the whole, at lea ft the moll con-
iikierable part, but at the fame time that we declare our-
feUes thus clearly convinced of V le non cxiftence of a
(Continent w ithtn the limits juft mentioned, ;ve cannot
|ielD acknowledging our ready belief, that the iand our
' - ~ . navigatorii

RquHD THE World*

*57

iiifrigators have difcovcrcd to the S. E. of Staten-Land,
is part of a continent, projediftg from the north in a
narrow neck, and expanding to the fouthward and
Iw eft ward, more pariicularly tojvards the eaft. In this
belief we are ftrengthcned by the ftrong reprefentatioii
of land Ceen at a diftance by our navigators, in lat. 7?
deg. and 25Z deg. long, and by the report of Theodora
iGerrards, who, after palfing the ftraits of Magellan, be*
ing driven by tempefts inp the lat. of 64 deg. S. in that
' height came in fight of a mountainous country, covered
with fnow, looking like Norway, and feenjingly ex-
pending from E^ to VV.

The fads and the obfervations made by Capt. Cook,
corroborates each other ; and though they do not re-
duce the queftion to an abfolute certainly, yecthe pro-
bability is greatly in favour of the fuppofed difcovery.
To conclude thefe reflexions, and to place the charadler
of our judicious navigator in the moll llriking point of
view, he performed a voyage of three years and eigh-
teen days, with 118 men, throughout all the climates,
from s^ ^eg. N. to 71 deg. S. with the lofs only of one
man by ficknefs j and even this one began fo early to
complain of a cough, and other confumpiive fymptoms,
which had never left him, that his lur gs muft have
been affedled befofe he came on board to go the
voyage.

D'd any, moft converfart in the bills of mortality,
wnether in the moft healthful climate, and in the belt
condition of life, ever find fo fmall a lill of deaths,
among fuch a number of men with that fpace .? How
agreeable then muft our furprife be, to find, by the
iifliduity and unremitted exertions of a tingle Ikilful na-
vigator, the air of the fea acquitted of all malignity,
^nd that a voyage round the word has been undertaken

with

35* Cap T AIM Cook's sjbcono Voyaob

\irithlers danger perhaps to health, than a common
tour in Europe. Surely diftinguifhed merit is here
confpicuous, though' praife and glory belongs to God
only.

May future navigators fpring out of this bright ex^
ample, not only to perpetuate his juftly acquired fame,
l>ut to imitate his labours for the advancement of na-
tural knowledge, the good of Cociety, and the true glory
of Great Britain.

End of the Second VOYAGE^

•

^j«t-..

CAPTAIN

■'J'-t,

CAPTAIN CO OK s

THIRD and laft VOYAGE,

TO THE

PACIFIC OCEAN and NORTHERN
HEMISPHERE,

And performed under the dire^ion of Captains Cook,
Clerke, and Gore, in his Majefty's fhips the Refolution
and Difcovery, in the years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779,
and 1780.

ill

mmm

360 CAPfAiN Cooky's TriiRD VotAofA
BOOK III.

C H A P.

Captain Cook's depairtnre from England-^Jiin^ion witfj
the Difcovcry at the Cape of Good Hope — Paffage to
Prince Edward's ifland: — Arrival at Van Dremen's*
Land — Interview with the natives — Arrival at (Xieen
Charlotte*? Somd^—Particulars of the horrid maflacre
of the Adventure's boat's crew — Departure from

, Queen Charlotte's Sound*

CAPTAIN jaities Cook failed /rom Plymouth
Sounds on the I Qth of July, i'^y6, in the Refolu-
tion floop of war : He was accompanied by Omai, whofe
.bcljavJour, on his departure^ was a mixture of r^^^ret
. Md fatisfaftion. V^ hen the converfation tnriied on tiiofe
who had honotrred him with their ptotc^ion and friend-
iliip, during his flay in England^ he could hardly refrain
from tears. But the inftant his o\^n iflands were men-
iioned, his eyes fparklcd with joy* He Was deeply fen-
.fibleof the good treatment he had met with here, and
tad the higheit ideas of the country and people* But
the iplcaftng profpeft he now had of returning h(8»'^.c#
' foUded with what, he well knevr, would be eftcemed in-*
valuable treafures there, and the flatteringhopc which
the pofilfllon of thefe gave him, of attaining to a dif-
tingniflicd fuperiority among his countrymen, were con-
fider'ations which operated, by degrees, to fupprcfs eve*
ry uncafy fcnfation. On the 10th ofOflobcr^ arrived
at the. Ca|ic «»f g«)od ilopc Here he was joined, on
the loth of November, by Capt. Gierke, in iheDifco-
vcry, who had not been permitted to fail after him till
the ift of Auguft. In his paffage to the Cape, Captain
Cook took care to guard againft the ill coufequenccs a-
rifmg from the rains, and the clofe fultry weather ac-»
companying them, by frequently purifying the air be-

tweea

'it

Hon witfj
affnge to
Dremen's
at Queen
maflacre
re from

'Jymouth
2 Refolu-
x\, whofe

[ on tfiofe
id friend-
ly refrain
ere tnen-
;eply fen-
icre, and
>fe. Biit
rg h^^^
kerned in-*
3C which
to a dif-
V ere con-
•rcfs eve*
i arrived
wned, on
lie Difco-
r him till
Captain
ienccs a-
ither ac"
c air be-
tween

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f' ..■,.«.(>*.',

»e.£iSSE^I.M:gai0y££ii^<:^:^^

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^^ ' ft d u U t> ickt W6ktbi

i^tectt deeks hf fkeitii Moke^ and otligi^f Se pedi

itittadty their clettes at eircry bpportmiS^. By con-

^tly contit^uing to. obferve tbe4 precautions^ tj^chi

Irere feuref d^k on' boaf d the H^&lutibn knd ^<Coirery§

6h the M W tf<ic&x& ii^ M^
uHh th«^ |ith,they pdStd through iwoi^p^^ijielarg*
^ft ab<nit i^r i^aguds rri ciMit, M the lat; df 45 dc& .
53 ndiS; S. and id thift loii. of 37 ^c^. 4f niinVfi; Tfie
IdngitUdc is reckoned froih th^ itfcrixTian of Greenwich^
aiid after palSrig to the Eaft, in the Soiith Adantic, is
carried on eafterfy beyond the i 80th degree, to the tot-. .
moft ektcnt of th6 voyage ; add back to the fame me» ;
fidian; "fhefe tvi^o iflands, as^well ai four bthcrs*.
Ifrhidit tie from 9 to i2degtees or longitude more tQthd
£. and nearly in the fame tatitude^ were difcc>?ered »- '
1772, by Captains Marion and Crozet, two F'tench na*
vigatots. To the two firft Capt. Cook gave the naia^
of Prince Edward'^ Iflands, and.the latter he odieti M>l^. >..
rioU aiid Crozet's iflaUds; On the 24th he caitie i^ ^|i^
of foine high iflandis, which had be^ difcoveted td 1 77 1^ ^
by XefgUelett, i French Captain, who nained them a^
The northei-lftioft of thcfe, called BFigh's Ca^,, ts in lat^t T
4S dcg. 29 min. S. and long. 6$ deg. 40 min. E. They'' '
rcjit approached a defolate eoad calledKerguelea^sLaii^ ^*
which that iiavigator thought to be a cctntineBt, hni. '
which Ca^t; Codk fo^nd to be an ifland. On ^e ^51^
he entered a fafe harbour^ ^hiclil fie caDed^riimS. '
harbour, tlere they found pleiity of iraia', but not^
bit of Wood, "fhe diore was covered' witK jiei^iii^^
andothcf birds, and Teals. The latter were ^dt nwaonim
rous, butfo infehfLble to fear, that they jtilled as man^
of thetn as they |>leafed, fotthefakeof tlieir fk^rbls^
ber, to make oil for ihelr lamps' ahd .other iii^ @|^
the i^th, they left ti|is harbour, and ^^^^ug afeii^||Mtf
(^oafl, to afceireaiA its pbiition andexteotitliet jUlmeitf ^
lilumb. 1$. Z» |§

"•L

..M

'«'ii

^/mmmm

|52 Captain Cook.'8 third Voyaob

cd fevcral promontories and bays, with a pcninfula, and
a new harbour, to all which Capt. Cook gave names.

On the .31ft, Capt. Cook left this coaft, fleering E.
by N. and on the 24th of January 1777, faw Van Die-
men's Land, which is the fouthern point of new Holland.
On the 26th they anchored in Adventure Bay, where
they were employed in procuring wood and water. On
the 28th, th^y were agreeably furprifed with a vifit from
fome of the natives, eight men and a boy. They ap-
proached from the wopds with the greatefl confidence
imaginable. One of them had a flick in his hand about
two feet long, pointed at one end. They were quite
tiaked, and wore no ornaments, unlefs we confider as
Itich, fome large pundlures or ridges on different parts
of theit bodies, fome in ftraight, an<l fome in curved
Imcs. They were of the common flature, but flender.
Their Ikin was black, and alfo their hair, which was
Us woolly as that q^ any native of Guinea ; but they
had hot remarkable thick lips nor flat nofes. On the
cont^'ary, their features were far from being difagreea-
ble. 1 hey had pretty good eyes, and their teeth were
tolerably even, but very dirty. Mofl of them had their
hair and beards fmeared with a ped ointment ; whith
fome alfo had their faces, painted.

Every ptcfent made to them they received without
the leau appearance of fatisfaftion. When fome bread
was given, as foon as they uudcrflood it was to be eaten,
diey either returned it or threw it away, without even
tafling it. They alfo refufod fome fifh, both raw and
drelTed ; but on giving fome birds to them, their beha-
dur indicated a fondnefs for fuch food. Capt. Cook
Had brought two pigs afliore, with a view of leaving
them in the woods ; but the inflant thefe came within
rea.ch of the f adages, they feized them, as a dog would
iiavc done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off

immediately

Round the World.'

363

jinmcdiately ; with no other intention, as could be per*
feived, but to kill them.- — Being defirous of knowing
the life of the ftick before mentioned, Capt. Cook, by
(igns, prevailed upon one of them to fliew him. This
fayage fei up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at
it, fit the diilance of about 20 yards. On repeated tri-
als, ho>yever, he was always wide from his objeA. O-
mai, to fhew them the fuperiority of our weapons, then
fired his mufquet at it ; which alarmed them, fo much,
^hat they rs^n |nftantly into the woods. '

Notwiihftanding their confternation on this occafion,
on the ,29th, about t>yenty of them, nien and boys, vifi-
tcd the crew again. One of this party was confpicu-
oully deformed ; and not more di(lingui(hable by the
hump on his back, than by, the drollery of his geftures,
and leeming humour of his fpeeches ; which were evi-
dently exhibited for the entertainment of his ftrange vi-'
fitors. His language, however, was wholly uriintelligi-*.
ble, ■ ^ "

- ♦

Some of this group wore, loofc, round" their necks^,
three or four folds of fmall cords, made of the fur of-
fome animal ; and others had a flip of the kangooroo^
ikin tied round their ancles. Capt. Cook gave to each;
of them a ftring of beads and a medal, which they feem-.
cd to receive with fatisfa<ftion ; but they fct no,, value^
on iron or iron tools. They appeared not to knoTV, the ^
ufe of fifh-hooks, nor was any canoe or velTcl fecn, in.
which they could go upon the water. Yet (hell-fifli
made a part of their food, as was evident from heaps,
of mufcle-lhells, that were feen in. different parts near
the fliore. Their habitations were little (beds or hovels
built of {licks, and covered with bark. Evident figns.
appeared of their lometimes taking up their abode in^
the trunks of trees, which had been hollowed out hy
|re^ and the m^iiks of fire near thefe nabitations, and
• "" ' ' neas;

^^4 Captain Cooi^^s thirp Voyaqb

nca|r every heap of fljells, lyerc indubitable proqfs that
they di4 not cat their flefli ra^y.

^me time af^er feyeral woqnen ?nd children made
their' appearance, and (Capt. Cook having left his party
of wopd ci]tter$) were introduced Ijy the men who at-
tended them to Lieutenant King* who prefented tl^em alj
with fuch trifles as he had about hia^. Thcfe females
lyore 4 Kangoproq /I^in (in the (l^ape as it came frpiii
the animal) tied oyer their ihoulders, and roupd their
^afte. Its only ufe feemed to be, to jupport their chil-
dren i^hen ca^-ried on their backs j for jt did ^ox cover
thofe parts \yhich molt nations conceal ; b^ing, In al|
other refpe^s, as n«iked as the men, and ai black, an4
their bodies marked 'with fca|rs iq the fame manner.
Some of them l^ad their hair completely (horn pr fl^avcd,
iii others this operatioii had been performed qnly pn
one iide ; ^hilfl the reJt of them had all the upper part
of the head (hom cloie, having a circle of hair ^1} rpvnd,
fomewhat like the tonfure of the Roman Ecclefiaflics.
Many of the children h^d'fine features, and were thought
pretty ; but of the perfons of the women, cfpecially of
tbofe adyaficed in years, a lefs favourable opinion w?is
formed. However the gentlemen of the pifcovery^
Capt. Cook was told, paid their addreiTcs, and made
Sberal offers of prcfents, which were rc]e£^ed w^th great
difdain ; vf hcther from a fenfe of virtue, or a fcaf of
difpleafmg thei^ men, he copld not determine. That
this gallantry wa? not agreeable to the latter, is cerr
tain ; for an elderly man, as foon as he obferved it, or-
dered all the women and children to retire, which they
obeyed ^ though (ome of thcifn Ihewed a little ircluftance.
^-T-Capt. Cook-s reflc<$tioo on this circumftance m\^ft not
be omitted : * This conduft of I)uropeans amongft Sa-
vages, to their womeo, is kighly blaraable j as it cre-
ates a jealoufy in their mtn, that may be attended with
|^iifc^uei\(;?s f4t>tl %9 \^ci\XQCQ{i qfoommv^ enterprise.

,-. ;. i - k ' J . i

RouNO THI World.

¥is

ijnd to the wl^olc body of the adventurers, without ad-
vancing the prjvatc purpofe of the individual, or en-
abling him' to gain the object oi his wifhes. I believe
it has been generally found amongft uncivilized pccplct
that where the women are eafy .of accefs, the fntn are
the firH: to ofFc r them to grangers ; and that where thi^
is not the cafe, ntirhef the allurements of prefents, nor
the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the
dcfired effctJJ. This obfcrvatiop, I am fure, will hol^
good, through all tl^e parts of the SouthrS^a \vherc |
nave beeut'

To Capt, Cook's account of Van Diemen's Land,
Mr. Anderfon, his furgeon, has added many particut
lars refpe^ing its natural hiftory. Among its vegeia-f
hie produ^ions, he could not find one that afforded the
fmalicft fubfiftence for man. There are two kinds of
foreft trees that arc quite unknown ;o Europe, The
only animal of the quadruped kind, which he could
get, was a fort of opoflum, about twice the fize of*
large rat ^ and which is, niofl: probably, the male oC
^hat fpecics. It is of a duflcy colour above, tinged wiij^
a brown or f ufty caft, a^id whitifli below, Atout 4
third of its tail, towards jts top, is yvhite, and bare
underneath ; by which it probably haijgs on the branch*
es of the trees, a^ it clinibes thefc and lives on bcrries.
Of the feathered r'^cc, the l )ft fmgular was a fmali
bird, witji a pretty long tail, and part of the head and
neck of a beautiful azure colour, whence they named
it Motacilla Cyanea.

WithrefpeAs to the inhabitants, Mr. Anderfo 1 (be,
fides what Capt. Cook has already obferved) fays, that
they poilcfs little aftivity j and that, as for genius, they
(ecm to have lefs than even the half-animated natives of
Tierra del Fuego, who have not invention fufficient to
li^ake clothing to defvad thcmfclves from the rigour of

the

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WEMTr^^ti.N.Y. 14580
(71A) •73-4S03

'4»

mmmm

366 Captain Cook's THIRD Voyage

their cliniate, though furniflied with the materials.
The only thing in which they feemed to difplay con
trivance, was the manner of cutting their arms and bo-
dies, in lines of different lengths and direftions, raifcd
considerably above the furface of the ikin ; for it is di-
iicult to guefs the method they ufe, in this embroidery
of their perfons. Their not expreffing that furprife,
which one might have expefted, at feeing men fo un-
Kke thcmfelvcs, and things to which they had been here-
unto utter ftrangers, the indifference to, the prefents
made to them, and general inattention, were fufficient
proofs of thcir^not pofTcfrmg any acutenefs of uuderr
Mauding — What the ancient poet^ feigned of fauns
latyrs, living 'm ^lo^low trees is here realized. Many
of their largcfl trees were converted into more com-
fortable habitations than the wretched conftruftion of
flicks mentioned before^ Thefe had their trunks hoU
lowed out by fire, to the height of fix or feven fieetj^
a^d that they take up their abode in them {bme times
Was evident from the hearths, made of clay, to con-
fine the fire in -the middle, leaving room for four or
five perfons to fit round it. At the fame time, thefe
places of fheher are durable ; for they take care to,
leave. one fide of the tree found, which is fufficient to,
keep it growing as luxuriantly as thofe» which remain
untouched.

In the morning of the 50th of January, a light
breeze fpringing up at W. both fhips put to fca. Soon
after the wind veered to the fouthward, and increafed
to a perfeft ftorm. Its fury abated in the evening^
when it veered to E, and N. E.

^ This gale was indicated by the barometer : for the
wind nctfooner began, to blow, than the mercury in

ihfi ^V^^^^^^ ^^ ^'^^^' ^^^^^^^ remarkable thing at^
^js^led-J&itoming o^ of this windy which was very

■•"^■'\ '"'■■' ■■^"^' ' "'". faint

Round t h e W o r l fy. ^(^ ^

faifAt at firft; It brought with it a degree oi heat that
was almoft intolerable. The mercury irt the therntKl-
meter rofe as it were Vnftantaneoufly, from about 70 to
GO deg. This heat was of fo (hort a continuance, that
It Teemed to be wafted away before the breeze that
brought it -, fo that fome on board did not perceive it.

On the loth of February, they .difcovered the land
of New Zealand ; and, on the izth, anchored at their
old ftation in Queen Chailotte's Sound. Here they
were fully employed till the 25th, in procuring wood,
water, and grafs for their cattle; in brewing fpruce
beer, as a prefervative from the fcurvy ; and in making
the ncceflary obfervations to find the rate of the time-
keeper, &c. &c.

The natives came along-fide the (hip in canoes, bat
(hewed great reluftance, when requefted to come on
board. Captain Cook imputed this behaviour to their
being apprehenfive, that he had revifited their country^
in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux*s
people, about ten of whom having landed from the
boat, in a part of the Sound, were maflacreed by the
^iivages^ In thisv idea, Captain Cook endeavoured to
convince them of the continuance of his friend(hipy and
that he (hould not moleft them on account of this me-
lancholy tranfadion ; and the natives foon returned to
their former confidence and freedom of intercourfe.

Captain Cook, however, was fo much on his guard,
that all his workmen were under the proteiflion of the
marines, and no boat was fent to any diftance from the
(hips, without being well officered and armed ) for he
had not only the tragical fate of the Adventures boat's
crew. in his mind, but that of Capt, Marion, a^d fome
of his people, in theBayofKlands, 1111772. <

Scvcrdt

^ppppp^ivnv^

D '■ ■»

^to CaptaIit Cook*s fniklj VdtASis

^Veral of the nsitivea creAed a kind of tcttipofif ^
tallage of huts, clofe to Captain Cook's encaitipiiient.
B«ridt& tikfe, he was occationally vHited by others,
front dilferciit ^uatters. The articles of tommefce pro^^
duced by the natives, were turiofitieS, fi(h, and wo-
Dscit. The two firft always came to a godd market ;
which the latter did not. The Teamen had taken a
kindl of dWVke to thefe people ; and Were either un-
wiUing, or afraid, to aflociate with them ; ♦ which pro-
d^reed tftis gbod cfflil,*. fays Captain Cooke, * that I
knew n6 infti^nce of a man's quitting his flation^ to go
to tfcfeir habitaticynsi*

- Arriong thcii? dceafionat vifitors Was a Ghie^ tamed
fCahooia, who headed the party that cut off Captain
Furneauxs people and had himfelf killed Mr. kowe^
t^ie ofiicei' who commanded. Some of the nati\res<
itrongly importuned the Captain to fncrilice htm to his
Vengeance \ \ Had 1 followed the advice of alt our pre-
fe1sd<ed friends/ feyS Gapt. Cook* * I taight have ex-
iirpafed ilie whole race ; for the people df each hamlet
ar village, by turns, applied to itie to dcftrby the other,*
iaadOmai joined in thefe folfcitations. But Kahoora re-
efed a ptrfcdt confidence in the good faith of Captain
Ccdfi, aiid had no reafon to repent i&.

Captain Cook, one day, made an excurfion fo (jfaft
Cove, the memorable fcene of the mail acre. Heri he
met with his old friend Pedro ; and from him, and fome
of the natives, who were entirely guiltlefs of the deed,
they rfeceived' the (hocking particulars ; which were as
ft>llovrs : * That while our people were fitting at din-
ger, furroundtd by feyeral of the natives, fome of thtf
Tatter ilole, or fhatched from them, fome bread afhd
f (hi fbf which they were beat. This beittg rcfentedj
a quarrel enfued, and two New iZealandtfrs were (hot
4cad, by the only two mufquets that were (ircd : for

before

OltND THE WOKtii.

before oiir peojple had time to difchar^e a third, or to
load again thofe that had been fired, the natives riiflied
in upon theni, overpowered thein with numbers, and-
put them all to death/

Capt. Gook was told, * that a black fervaht ot
fcapt. JFurneaiix, who had been left in the boat to tak^
care of her, was the caufe of the qiiarifel : that oneoi"
the natives ftealing fomething but of the boat, the Ke-
gro gave him |i fever* b^6w with a ftick : that the tried
of the fellow beinjg heard at a diftance^ they ihiagihed he
was killed, and immediately began the attack on our
Ijecf le *, who before they had tiiiie to reach the boat, or
to arm themfelves againft the impending danger, fell i|
facrifice to the fury of the favages;

Gapt. Gook tkoiigTu it viery probable tliat feoth thefd
accounts were trlie ; it being natural to (uppofe, that
while feme df the natives were ftealing frum the mad
left in the boat, others of them might be takij:)g tb*
fame liberties with the property ot our people, who
were oh (bore; But all agreed, that there was no pre-
rtieditated plan of bloodOied ; and that if the thefts had
not been too haftily relented, ho inifchief would have
happened. Kahoora being ciueftfOncd by Gapt. Cobkj
faidi That one of his countryitien having brought a ftonc
hatchet to barter, the itiart, to whc?m it was oftered, took
it, and ^oUld neither return itj nof give any thing for
it i on which the owner of it fnatthed Up the bread as
an equivalent, and thus the quarrel began;

6n the aptti tlierc was a violerit (torrh from the N»
W. The gufli of winds from the hills were very violtiit^
infomuch that they were obliged to ftrike the yards and
top-mails to the utmoft, and vet uith difficulty rode it
out. Thcfe ftorms arc very Sequent here. The neigh-
bouring mountainS;^ which at thcfe times are always

tmm

370

Captahn Good's THl?ii> VdYAtit

logded rf'ith vapours, not only increa;re the forc^e
of the wind, b^t alter its dire£\ion in fuch a man-
lier, that no two bUfts follow each other from the fame
quarter ; and the nearer the fhore, the more their effeft^
are felt. Great numbers of the natives continued to
Vifit the encampment, particularly while the crew were
lbneltii)g Come mubber« No Greenlander ever feemed
to be tnore fond of train oil. They reli(hed the very
&immipg^ of the l^ettle, and dregs of the caiks *, but
a little of the pure itinli^ing oil feemed to be a mo(t de-
Hcious fea^'

Aniong the moft Remarkable particulars in the natu<»
xal biiiory of this place, which are copioufly defciibed
hy Mr. Anderfon, we muft not omit to take notice of
the (Iriking contraft, which the face of the country
tiifords to that of Van Dicmen*s Land. — It is uncom-
monly mountainous, riBng immediately from the Tea
Into large hills with blunted tops. A.t cooftderable dif-
tances are vallies* or rather impreillons on the fides of
the hillSf which are not deep« each terminating towards
the Tea in a fmall cove, with a pebbly or Tandy beach ;
behind which are fmall flats, where the natives general^
\y build their huts, at the fame time hauling their ca-
noes upon the beaches. This fituation is the more con-
venient, as in every cove a brook of fine water emptiei
itfelf irto the fea. The hills are Qne ^nttnued foreft of
lofty trees, flouri(hlng with a vigour almoft fuperior to
any thing that imagination can conceive, and affording
an augufc proiped to thufe who ^e delighted wtt)i the
grand and beautiful works of nature.

Ti^e agreeable temperature oi the climate, no doubt,
contributes much to this uncommon ftrength in vege -
t,auon : for, at this time, though anfwering to our month
iof A^guii, the weather was never difagreeably warm ',
aor did it raife the thermometer higher than 66 deg.

The

ROUM43 THs* World.

Tphe winter, tlfo, feems cqvMly mild with r^fp^A t(|
cold : for in J[une lyJS, which correfponds to our Dc*
cember, the mercury never fell lower than 48 degrees ;
and the treen, s^t tha,t time, retained theif verdure, as il
in the fumrQer feafon *, (b that, in Mr. Anderfon's opi-^
nion, their foilage is never Ihed, till pufhed off with the
(ucceeding leaves in fpring. In (hprt, the only obftad^
to this being one of thie Bneft countries upon earth, is
its hillineCs ; which allowing its woods to be ck .ed av
way, would leave it lefis proper for pafturage than flat
landi and ftill more improper for cultiyation^ whic^
could never be effected by the plough.

Among the plants one deferyes parttpular notice, as the
natives make their garments of it, and it produces a fine
iilky flix, fuperior in appearance to any thing vve
have, and probably &s ftrong. It grows in bunches of
tufts, with fedge-like leaves, bearing, on a long ftalk,^
yellowifli flowers, which are fucceeded by a long round-
lih pod, ^led with very thin Ihining. black feeds, — ^A,-
nother plant, which bears a red berry, and which is
much like the fupple-jack, growing about the trees,
iiretching from one to another, in fuch a manner^ as to^
render the woods almpft w^^hoUy iinpaifible.

Among the birds ajre leveral forts of cuckoos, one of
which is not larger than a Iparrow, of a fplendid green^
caft above, and elegantly varied with waves of golden,
green, brown, and white colours below. Another kind
h of a black colour, with a greeniih caft, which is re-
markable for having a tuft of ^hitc curled feathers
hanging under the throat. This tuft of feathers rcfem-
bled the white flowers ufed as ornaments in the ears at
Otaheite, and called Poowa, whence our Tailors called,
this the Poy bnrd. There is alfo a fmall grcenifti bird,
which is almoft the only roufical ont here, but is fuffici-'
entto fill the woods with a melody, that is not only

fwecr.

mmm

f^i Ca^tai^ Gook^s third Voxaq^

fwcef, but (q varied, that one would imagine he watj
furroundcd by a hundred different forts of birds, wheq
the little yarbler is pear, Hcpce it was named the
|nopking bird. ' .

With refpell; to quadijupeds, it is remarkable, that In
this extenfiye land, there is not even the trace of one,
except only a few rats, and a fort of fox-dog, which is
a domc(^ic animal with the natives. Neither is there
any mineral worth notice but a green jafper, or ferpcnt.
(lone, of which (he aacives m^ke their tools and orna^
ments.

Of the natives we can here only obferve, that, coi^-
^rary to the favages of Van Diemen's Land, they flieW
as much ingenuity, both in invention and execution, a$
any uucivilized pations under llmilar circumftances : for,
without the uile of any taetal tbols, they "make every
thing by which jhey proctire their fubfirtance', tlothing,
and warlike-weapons, wi^h a degree of neatnefe, (Irength
and convenien9C for ^ccompliftiing their fcvexal pur-
pofes. T-'heir chief mechj^nital tool is formed cxaftly
afer the manner of Qi|r adzes ; and is made,^'as are alfd
the chiffel and goilge»'of thi? grefcn ferpent-ftone already^
mentioned. But their mafter-piece feems to be carving.
The heads of theiy_ cahdes a^e fometimes 'ornamerite^
with it, in fuch a manner, as not only (hews much de-
fign, but alfo is ^n cxaniple of great labour and patience
in executioii. Their coirdagc foy fifliing-liae$ is equal in
jdrength and evennefs, to ours, and their nets ilot at all
inferior. Biit what i^iuft coft thein the greatcft labour,
is the making of the tools we have mentioned •, for the
iloneis exceedingly hard, ^nd the onlymethod of falhi-
oning it, is by rubbing one (lone upon another. Their
iiibf^itute for a knife is a ^ell, a bit of flint, or jafper^
^nd, as an auger, to bore with, they fix a (hark's tooth
*'^ the end of a fipall piece of wood. It i$ uue^ they

u s^V-

»9

Round the Worl

375

; he wai;
S wheq
med the

, that ill
of one,

uyhich is
is there

ferpcnt.

id. orna^

lat, coi^«

icy ftieVjf

ution, a$

c€s : for,

ke every

tlothing,

.(trength

fral pur-

[ cxaftly

arc alfd

already

carving.

amcrite4

ucb de-

iatience

equal in

lot at all

labourj

for the

offalhi-

Their

jafperi

s tootb

lavq

have a fnaall few, made with fome jagged fiQics teeth ^
ifixed on the convex edge of a piece of wood nicely car-
ycd. But this, they fay, is only ufed to cut up the bor
dies of their enemies, whom they kill in baale.

From this country, Capt* Cook, at the rcqucft of
Omai, and with their own and relations confent, took
two young Zealanders. On the 25th of February, the
Captains Cook and Clerk left Queen Charlottc-s Sound ;
and on the 29tli of March following, came within (igl>c
lofthe ifland of Mungear

During Captain Cook's palTage to the ifland of Man-
gea, the two adventurers from New Zealand, repented
heartily of the ftep they had taken, immediately after
they had loft fight of their own country, the fca ficknefs
^hcy experienced giving a turn to their reflexions. M
th6 foothing encouragement that could be thought of
availed but little. They wept both in public and pri-
jirate'; ^nd made their lamentations in a kind of fong,
l^hich, a^ fay as the meaning of the word could be un-
derftood, was cxpreffive of thepraifes of their own coun-
try and people, frqm which they were to be feparatei
ifrom them* fpr ev^r. -Thus they continued for many
jdays, till theiir fea«ficknefs wore off, and the tumult ot
^heir mind began to fubfide. Then thefe fits of lamca*
tation becaipe Icfs and lefs frequent, and at length en-
tirely ccafed. Their native coiintry arid their. friends,
were, by degrees, forgotten ; and they appeared to be
jis firmly attached to their new acquaintances, as if they
had been born among them. ^ ■ ■ . ■ ■

The ifland of Mangea, (which is the name the natives
give it) lies in the latitude of 21 deg. $y min. S. and
aoi deg. 53 min. E. Capt. Cook pronounces it from its
exterior appearance, to be a very fine ifland, capable
of fupplying all their wants j and hp computes ic to be

fibout

574- Captain Code's third VoyXob

;ibout five leagues }n circuk. But he Ibund it impoiTr.
hie cither to land here^ or to find any anchorage for
his (hips ; Aich part of the coaf^ as fell under his obfcr^
vation, being guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the
out-fide of which the fea is of an unfathomable depth :
and a great furf broke with violei^ce a^ainft the fliore,
or againft the reef that furround it,

ilarljr in the nlorning df the 30th of Feb. feveral of
the natives were perceived Upon a fandy beach, all arm-
ed with long fpears and clubs, which they brandifhed in.
ihc air with figns of thrcatning, or, as others interpret-
ed their attitude, with inyitations to land. Mod of
them were naked, es^ept having a fort of girdle, which|
being brought up between the thighs, covered that
part of the body. But (pf^e of them had pieced of cloth
of different colours, white, ilriped, or chequered $
thrown about their moulders ; and almoft all of them
bad a kind of white turban \ and fome others, a (ort of
high conical cap. They were of tawny colour j and in^
general of a midling Mature, but rob^ift^ and iticlit^ed to
corpulence.

At this time, afmall canoe was hunched in a great
hnrry from the farther end of the beach ; and, a man
gening into it, put off, as with a view to reach the fhip.
Qn this, the Captain brought to, that he nfvrght receive
the vifitibutthe man's refolution failing, he foon re-
turned towards the beach, where, after foiu^time, ano-
ther man joined him in the canoe ; and theii they both^
paddled towards the fhip. They ftopt fhprt, however,
as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addreiTed^
them in the Otaheite ladguagb, in fome meafure quieted
their apprchcnfions. They then came near enough to
take fome beads and nails, Which were tied td a piece of
wood» and thrown into the canoe. They feemcd afraid
to touch tbefe thin^, and put the piece of wobdiiifide,
_ without

OUND THE

ILL Hi

tifitiiout untying them. This, however, might arifd
from fuperftition ; for Omai faid, that when they faw ut
offering them prdcnti, they aiked fomething for their
E/VTOOA, or God* He alfo, perhaps improperly, pui
the queftion to theiiSt whether they ever eat human
fle(h ? which they ftnfwered in the negative, with a mix«
ture 9f indignation arid abhorrence. One of them, whofe
name was Mourooa, being aiked how he cdit^e by a fear
in his forehead, anfwtred, that it was in confequencei
of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of
an ifland, which Ves to the North-Eadward, wImr iame*
times came to invade them. They afterwards tpok hold
of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on
board ; but told Omai, that their countrymen had giveq
them this caution, at the fame time dire^iing them to
enquire whence the fhip came, and the name of the Cap*
tain.

Mourooa was lufty, but not very tall. His. features
were agreeable, and his difpofition feemlngly no lefs fo }
for he made feveral droll gcfticulations, which indicated
both good-nature and a (hare of humour. He alfo made
others, which feemed of a ferious kind, and repeated
fome words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay
hold of the rope j which was probably to recommend
himfeJf to the ijrote<aion of fome Divinity. His colour
was nearly of the fame caft with that common to the
more fouthern Europeans. The other waft not fo hand^
feme. Both of them had (Irong, (Iraight hair, of a }et
colour, tied together on the crown of the hea!d wita a
bit of cloth. They wore girdles, which were a fubilanco '
made from the Morus p^yrifera, in the fame manner as
at the other iflands in this ocean. It was glazed like
the fort ufed by the natives of the Friendly Ifiands ;^but
the cloth on their heads was white, like that which was
found at Otaheite. They had on a kind offandal^
made of a grafly fubflance interwoven, and probably in^

tended

37^ Captain Cook's tmird Voxioi

tended to defend their feet jigainft the rdiigh coral ro'cfc.
Their beards were long j and the infide of thc:ir arms,
from the ihouldcrs to the elbow, sind fomc other partsj
were punfturcd ortatooed, after the mahtJer of the ria-
tivcs of almoft all the other ifliinds in the Sotith Sea.
Tlie lobe of the ears walsf pierced, or r cither 111 1,^ and to
fuch a length, that one of them ftvick there a knife and
•fontc beads, which had been given them ; ind the ftimc
perfon had two poHihed pearl-fhells, and abunth of
Aaman hair, loofly twiftcd, hanging round his neck.
The CMDC they came in was not above ten feet long,
ind very narrow, but both ftrong and neatly made.
The forepart had a flat bourd faflened over it, and pro-
jeAing out to prevent the fea getting, iii on plunging.

Abotit teft ()*ciocJci the GaptaTn ix'ent into a boat to
found the ihore. He had no fooner put off, than th^
twomeninthe canoe paddled towards the boat, and hav>
ing coiJie adong fide, Mourooa ftept into her, without
b.cing aiked, and without a moment's hefitation.

While thus employed in endeavouring to land (which
irsis found impoihble, unlefs at the rifk of having the
• .boat filled whh water, or even ftaved to pieces) great
numbers of the natives flocked down to the beach, all
armed as above mentioned. Mourooa, probably think-
rog that this warlike appearance prevented their land*
jng, ordered them to retire. As many of thcnrt com-
plied, he was judged to be a perfon of fome confequcncc.'
So great was the curiofity of feveral, that they fwam
to the boat, and came on board without referve^ It wad
even difticult to keep them out, and flill more difficult
to prevent their carrying oS every thing upon which
they could lay their hands. At length, when they per-
ceived the boat returning to the Ihip, they all jumped
Vttt^ except Mourooa. He, though not without evident

figM

:.4

•/

-Round the World.

ligns of fear, kept his place, and went on board thtf
fliip.

The cattle, and other objefts, did not ftrikc him with
fo much furprifc as one might have expefted. But, in
faft, he fecmed very uneafy ; and Jtt the (hip, on his
getting on board, happened to be (landing off Ihore, this
circumftance made him the more fo. After a (liort ftay^.
the Captain ordered a boat to carry him in towards
land. As foon as he got oiit of the cabin, he (lumbled
over one of the goats. His curiofity now overcoming
his fear, he ftopt, looked at it, and a(ked Omai, What
bird this was ? Tlib boat having conveyed him pretty
hear the furf, he leaped into the fca, and fwam afhor r.
He had no fooner landed, than the multitude of his
countrymen gathered round him, as if eager to learn
what he had fecii. As foon as the boat returned, the
Captain nriade fail from the land to the Northward. The
natives of Mangea, as do all the New Zealandcrs, falure
(Irangers by joining nofes ; adding, however, the addi-
tional ceremony of taking the hand of the' pc rfon to
whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it, with a
degree of force, upon their nofe and mouths.

On the I ft of April, Captain Cook, came iii fight of
an ifland, nearly of the fame appearance and extent as
Mangea ; and, at the fame time, another land, but much
fmaller, was feen right a-head. The firft, as they after-
warjds learned from the natives, was called by them
Watceoo. It lies in the lat. of 20 deg i min. S. and
; in the Ion. 201 deg. 45 min. E. and appeared to be a
beautiful fpot, with a furfiice compbfed of hills and
plains, and covered with verdure of many hues.* The
next day, two armed boats were fent out, to look for
anchoring ground and a landing place. In the mean
time, the natives came oflF in canoes, to vifit the; twd
fliips, and to be quite free from the apprehcD(ions that

Bbb had

nr.

'» •'

■^ji Captain CIook's third Voyaos

had been (o vifiblc in the inhabitants of Mangeea. Pre-
fcnts were reciprocally given and received. In one of
thefe vifits, the natives, as they drew near the (hip, re-
cited fome word" in concert^ by way of chorus, one of
iheir number firfl ftanding up, and giving the word be-
fore each repetition. When they had finifliedtheir fo-
lemn chant, they came along fide and aiked for the
Chief. After giving fome prefents, they were condudl-
cd into the cabin, and to other parts of the fliip. Some
objefts feemed to ftrike them with a degree of furprife ;
but nothing fixed their attention for a moment.. They
were afraid to come near the cows and horfes ; nor did
they form the leafl: conception of their nature. But
the flicep and goats did not furpafs the limits of their
ideas ; for the gave us to underftand , that they knew
them to be birds. It will appear rather incredible,
that hUiTiahe ignorance could ever make fo firange a
iniftake ; there not being the moll diftant likenefs be-
tween A (heep or a goat, and aiiy winged animal. But
thefe pebpie feemed to know nothing of the exiftencc
of aiiy othct iand-animals, befides hogs, dogs, and birds.
The fhecp and goats, they could fee, were very diffe-
rent creatures ftom the two firft, and therefore they in-
fered, that they muft belong to the latter clafs, in which
they knew there is a cofffiderable variety of fpccics.

The people in thefe canoes differed little from the na.
ti vcs of Mangeea. Ornaments, compofed of a fort of grafs
ftained with red, and ftrung with berries of the night-
Ihade, were worn about their necks. Their ears were
"^ored, but not flit ; and they were punftnred upon the
legs, fiom the knee to the heel, which made them ap-
pear as if they wore a kind of boots.

Lieutenant Gore, with the two beats, returned in the
'afternoon, having found the fame obftrudlions both to
landing and anchoring, which they had found at Man^

geea,

MM:-

RouNJ> THE World.

geea. But as the natives fecmed very friendly, and tq
cxprcfs a degree of difappointment, w hen they faw the
boats crews fail in their attempt to land, Mr Gore was
pf opinion, that by means of (3mai, who could beft ex-
plain the rcqucft, they might be prevailed upon to bring
off to the boats beyond the furf, fuch articles as were
moft wanted, in particular the flems of plantain-trees,
^hich were good food for the cattle.

Accordingly, about lo the next morning, Mr. Gore
was difpatched with three boats, to try the experiment.
Two ojP the natiyes, who had been on board, accompa*
nied him ; and Omai went a$ interpreter. In order to
pbferye their motions, ¥ind to be ready to give them
fuch affiftance as they might want, ^aptain Cook kept
as near the fliorc as was prudent! He was fenlible,
however, that the reef was as tf^cftual a barrier between
him andr his friends TTho had landed, and puij^ ^h^^}^ ^*
much beyottd his proteftion, as if half the ctrcumfcreijce
of the globe had intervened. But the iflanders^ it wasi,
probable, did not know this fo vifell as Ijie did. In the
mean time, the occafional vifits of the pjitives on board
fliips, fcrved to leffen his folicitude for his friends oa
ibore. At length, a little before fun-fet^ he Ijad the fa-
tisfaftion of feeing the boats put off* When they got
pn board, he found that Mr. Gore, Omai, Mr. Ander-.
fon, and Mr. Burncy, were the only perfons that had;
landed. M. Anderfon's narrative of the tranfa6lions of *
the day being extremely interefting, we ftiall give it ia,
liis own words.

* Wc rowed,* fays Mr. Anderfon,* towards a fmall
iandy beach, and came to an anchor within a hundred
yards of the reef, which extends about as far, ora litrla
further from the (horc. Several of the natives fwam
9if, bringing cocoa-nuts ; and Omai, with their country^
men, whom wc had with us in the boats, made them

feuhble

j8o Captain Cook's third Voyage

fenfib|e of our wifli to land. Soon after, two canoes
camp off; and to create a greater confidence in the
iflanders, we determined td go unarmed, and to run the
hazard of being treated welT or ill.

' Our condudlors, watching attentively the motions
of the furf, landed Mr. Burney and myfelf, who were
f|n the firft canoe, fafcly upon the reef. A.n iflander
took hold of each of us, obvioufly with an intention to
fupport us in walking over the rugged rock, to the
^each, where fevcralof the others met. us, holding the
green boughs, of a fpccies of Mimofa in their hands,
and faluted us by joining their nofeS to ours. Mr. Gore

and Omai v/ere landed froni the fecond canoe. .

• ; - . . ^ . , ,. , • • ■ -r- - • .' *

• A. great croud flocked with eager xuiiofity to look
^t us ; and would have prevented our proceeding, had
jiot fume, who feemed to have {Authority, dealt blows,
with little diftinftion arnong theni, to keep them off.
"We were then led up an avenue of cocoa palms ; and
. foon came to a number of men, Arranged in two rows,
and armed with clut3s, which they hold on their (bould-
ers, much in the fame manner as we reft a mulket. Af-
ter walking a little way aniong thefe, we found a per-
fon who feemed a Chief, fitting on the ground crofs-leg-
ged, ' cooling himfelf with a fort of a triangular fan,
made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a poliflied
hs^nd'.e of black wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears
were large branches of beautiful red feathers, vvhich
pointed forward. But he had no other mark, or orna-
ment, to diftinguifh him from the reft of the people ;
though they all obeyed him with the greateft alacrity.
He either naturally had, or at this time put on, a ferious,
but not fevere countenance ; and we were defired to
falute him as he fat, by fome people who feemed of con-
iequcnce. ...

i >*• "• .* W9

V > V

Round the Worh>;

3«i

! Wc proceeded ftill amongft the nlen arned with
clubs, and came to a fecond Chief, who fat fanning
himfelf, and ornamented as the Brft. He was remark-
able for his fize, and common corpulence, though to ap-
pearance not above thirty. Jn the fame manner, we
were condu(5led to a third Chief, who feemed older than
the two former, and though nor fo fat as the tecond, was
of a large fize. He alfo was fitting and adorned with
red feathers ; and after fainting him as we had done
the others, he defired us both to fit down, upon which
we were very willing to do, teing prdtty well fatigued
V^ith walking up and down, and with the excefUve heat
wc felt, amongft the vaft crowd that furrounded us.

* In a few minutes, the people were ordered to fe-
parate ; and we faw, at the diflance of 30 yards, a-
bout 20 young women, ornamented as the chiefs, with
red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they per-
formed to a flow and ferious air, fung by them all.
We got up, and went forward to fee them; they con-
tinued their dance, without paying the lead attention
to us. They feemed to be directed by a man who
ferved as. a prompter, and mentioned each motion they
were to make. But they never changed thd fpot, as
we do in dancing, and though their feet were not at
reft, this cxercife confiftcd more in moving their fingers
very nimbly, at the fame time holding their hands in a
prone pofiiion near the face, ajid now and then alfo
clapping them together. Their motions and fong were
perforpied in fuch exad concert, that it fliould fecm
they had been taught with great care ; and probably
they were feleftccl for this ceremony, as few of thofe
whom we faw in the crowd equalled them in beauty.
In general, they were rather flout than flender, with
black hair flowing in ringlets down the neck, and of
olive complexion. Their features were rather fuller
than what we allow to perfefl beauties, and much

. alike J

j8i Captain Cook's third Vqvagi

alike ; but their eyes were of a deep black, and eac^
countenance cxpreffed a degree of complacency, and
modefty, peculiar to the fex in every part of the
world f but perhaps more cbnfpicuous here, where
nature prefented us with her produdiions in the fullefl
perfedion, unbiaiTed by feiitiment in cuftom, or unre-
grained in manner by art. "^'heir Uiape and limbs
were elegantly formed.

* This dance was not fini(hed, when we heard a
Ooile, as if feme horfcs bad been galloping towards
DS ; and on looking afide, we faw the people armed
with dabs, who had been defired, as we fuppofe, to
entertain us with the fight of their manner of fighting.
This they now did, one party purfuing aQoth^r, who
fled*

* As we fuppofed the ceremony of being introduced
to the chiefs was now at an end, we began to look
about for Mr. Gore and Omai ; and, though the
i;rowd would hardly fuf[ir us to move, we at length
found them coming up, as much incommoded by the
people as we had been, and introduced in the fame
manner to the three chiefs. Each of thcfe expe^ed a
prcfent ; and Mr. Gore gave them fiich things as he
had brought with him from the {hip, for that purpofe.
After this, making ufo of Oma^ as his interpreter, he
informed the chiefs with what intention we had come
aOxore; but was given to underftand, that he muft
wai( till the next day, and then he fhould have whac
wa* wanted, , - : -t

* They now feemed to take fome pains to feparatc
us from each other ; and every one of us had his will
to furround and gaze at him. For my part, I was, at
one time, above an hour apart from my friends j and
VihetL I told the chief, with whom 1 fat, that I w anted

Round t h e W o r l i).

to fpcak to Omai, he pef emptorily rcfufed my requdb
At the fame time, I found the people began to (leal
feveral trifling things which I had in my pocket ; and
when I complained to the chief of this treatment, he
juftified it.

From the above circumftances, I now entertained
apprehcnfions, that they had a defign to detam us a-
mongfl: them. They did not, indeed, feem to be of a
difpofition fo favage, as to make us anxious for the
fefety of our perfons ; but it was neverthelefs, vexing
to think, we had hazarded being detained by their curi-
ofity. In this fituation, I afkcd for fomething to eat ;
and they readily brought me fome cocoa-nuts, bread-*
fruit, and a fort of four pudding, which was prefented
by a woman. And, on my complaining much oi the
heat, occalioned by the crowd, the chief himfelf con-
dcfcended to fan me, and gave me a fmall piece of
cloth, which he had rouud his waift.

* Mr, Burney happening to come to the place where
I was, I mentioned my fufpicions to him -, and to put
it to the teft, w*hether they were well founded, we at-
tempted to get to the beach. But we were (lopped
when about half way, by fome men, who told us, we
mxift go back to the place we had left. On coming
np, we found Omai entertaining the fame apprehenfi-
ons, but he had, as he fancied, an additional reafon
for being afraid; for he had obferved, that they had
dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they wer/e
heating ; and he could afTign no other reafon for this,
than that they meant to road and eat us, as is pratSlifed
by the New .-.ealanders. Nay, we went fo far as to
afk the quefton ; at which they were greatly furprifcd,
afking in return, whether it was a cuflom with us ?
Mr. Burney and I were rather angry that they (hould
he thus fufpe^ed by him } there havingt as yet, been

DO-

Captain Cook's third VoYAok

* • » ,

no appearances, in their conducH; towards us^ of thcfr
beitig capable of fuch brutality.

* In this manner we Were detained the greateft part
of the day, being fometimes together, and fometimes
feparated : but always in a crowd ; who, not fatisfied
with gazing at us, frequently dellfed us to uncover
parts of our fkin ; the fight of which generally pro-
duced a murmur of admiration. At the fame time they
did not omit thefe Opportunities of riflhig our pockets,
and at laft, one of them faatched a fmali bayonet from
Mr. Gore, which. hung in a (lieath by his fide. This
was reprefented to the chief j who pretended to fend
fome perfons in fearch of it. But, in all probability,
he countenanced the theft : for, foon after, Oraai had
a dagger ftolen from his fide, in the fame manner, tho'
he did not mifs it immediately^

* Whether they obferved any figns of any uneahnefs
in us, or that they voluntarily repeated their emblems
of friendlhip,'when we exprefled a defire to go, I cannot
tell i but, at this time, they brought fome green boughs,
and, fticking their ends in the ground, defired we
would hold them as we fat. Upon my urging our bu-
fmels again, they gave us to underftand, that wemuft
{lay and eat with them ; and a pig that we faw, foon
after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared
and heated, removed Omai's apprehenfions of being put
into it himfelf } and made us think it was intended for
ourrepaft. The Chief alfo promifed to fend fome peo-
ple to procure provifionfor the cattle ; but it was not
till late in the afternoon, that we faw them return with
a few plan tain- trees, which they carried to our boats.

* In the mean time, Mr. Burney and I attempted a-
gain to go to the beach ^ but when we arrived, found
ourfelves watched by thepenple^ who' fecmed to have

been

ftotJNb THE W0K.Li5.

ifis

been planted there for that purpofe :iot, when I tried
to wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of 017*
clothes, and dragged me back. I picked up fome fmall
pieces of coral, which they required me to throw down
again ; and on my refufal, they made no fcruple to take
them forcibly from me. 1 had gathered fbme fmall
plants i but thefe alfo 1 could not be permitted to retain -,
and they rook a fan from Mr. Burney, which he had re-
ceived as a prefent on coming alhore. Omai faid, we
had done wrong in taking up any thing % for it was not
the cuftomhere to permit freedoms of that kind to Gran-
gers, till they had, in fome meafure, naturalized them
to the country, by entertaining them with feftivity two
or three days.

* Finding that the only method of procuring hctttt
treatment was to yield implicit obedience t() their will,
we went up again to the place we had left ; and they*
HON prorhifed, thu we (hould have a canoe to carry us
off to our boatsj affer we had eaten oC a repait which
had been prepared for us. Accordingly, the fecond
Chief before mentioned^ having feated himfelf Upon a
low broad (tool of blackiOi hskrd wood, tolerably polKh-
ed, and direding the muititade to make a plenty large
ring, made us fit down by him. A confidef able num-
ber of cocoa-nuts were brought ; and, fliortly after, a
long green bafket, witha fufficient quantity of baked
plantains to have ferved a dozen perfonsi A. piece ot
the young hog that had been dreiled, was then fet be-
fore each of u^j of which we were defired to eat. Our
appetites^ however haid tailed, from the fatigue of the
day ; and though we did eat a little to pleafe them, ii^
was without fatisfaQion toourfelves.

* It being now near fun-fet, we told them U waft

time to go on board. This they allowed » and fent

down to the beuch, tht remainder of the visuals that

I^umb. 17. C c© " hJii

386

Captain Cook's third Voyaob

^ad been drefled, to be carried with us to the (hip. v/t
found a canoe ready to put us off. to our boats ; which
the natives did with the fiime caution as when we land-
ed. They put us on board the boats, with the cocoa-
nuts, plantains, and other provilions, which they had
irougnt \ and we rowed to the fliips, very well pleafed
^hat we had at laft got out of the hands oit our trouble -
fome mafters.

It was mentioned, that Oitiai was fent upon this ex-
pedition j and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore,s interpret-
er, was not the only fervice he performed this day. He
was alked by the natives a great many queftions con-
cerning our people, our fliips, and our country, and the
fort of arms we ufed : and, according to the account
he gave to Captain Cook, his anfwers were not a little
upon the marvelous. Our country, he told them, had
(hips as large as their ifland i on board which were in-
ftiuments of war (defcribing our guns) of fuch dimen-
fions, that feveral people might fit within them ; and
that one of them was fufficient to crufli the w hole ifland
&t one fliot. This led them to afl< what fort of guns
were on board Captain Cook's fliips. He faid, that
though they were but fmall in comparifon with thofe
he had defcribed, yet, with fuch as they were, they could
with the greateil eafe, and at the diflance the fliips
were from the fliore, deftroy the ifland* and kill every
foul in it. They then enquired by what means this
could be done* and Omai explained it as well as he
could, ir I e happened luckily to have a few catridges
in his pocket. Thefe he produced : the balls, and the
gunpowder that was to fet them in motion, were fub-
mitted to infpedion , and, to fupply the defedts of his
defcription, an appeal was made to the fenfe of the fpec-
tators. The multitude had been formed, as before-
mentioned, into a circle. This furniftied Omai with a
convenient ftage for his exhibition. In the centre of

. this,

Round the Wo'rld.

3»?

this, the fmall quantity of gunpowder colIe6ted frorn
his catridges, was properly difpofed upon the ground,
and fet on fire by a hit of ouirning wood from the oven.
The fuddeii blait, and loud report, the mingled flame
and fnt^oke, that inflantly fucceeded, filled the whole
aflembly with aftonifhmcnt. They no longer doubted
the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full
credit to all Omai had fCid.

If it had not been for the terrible idea they conceived
©f the (hip*s guns, from this fpecimen of their mode of
operation, it was thought they would have detained the
gentlemen all night. For Omai ailured them, that if he
and his companions did not return on board the fame
day, they might expe<5l that the Captain would fire up-
on theifland. And as the fhips flood in nearei; the land
in the evening, than they had done any time before, of
which they were obfervcd to take great notice, they
probably thought this formidable attack was medita-
ting ; and therefore they fuffered their guefls to depart ;
in the expe<Aation howeyer, of feeing them again on
fhore the next morning. But Cape. Cook was too fen-
fible of the riik they had already run, to think of repeat-,
ing the expcrinicnt. ,

This ifland, though never before vifited by Europe-
ans, had actually other Grangers refiding in it. Omai,
when he landed with Mr.Gore, found amongfl the crowd*
three of his own countrymen, natives of the fociety if-
lands. At the diflanqe of about 200 leagues from thofe
iHands, an immenfe unknown ocean intervening, with ^
fuch wretched fea-boats as their inhabitants are known "
to make ufe of, and fit only for a pafTage where fight of
land is fcarcely ever lofl, fuch a meeting, at fuCe a place,
Co accidently vifited by Captain- Cook's people, may
well be looked upon as one of thofe unexpected fituati-
ons with which the writers of feigned adventures love

to„

3*8 Captai^i Coqk's third Vqyaqi

to furprife their readers, and which, when they rea!l3fr
jiappen in common life, dcferve to be recor4ed fo^ their
ingwlarity. ,

It may be imagined, with what furprife and fatisfa^ion
Oraai and his countrymen engaged in converfation.
Their ftory i$ very affcfting. iVbout twenty perfon".
of both fexes, 'had embarked on board a canoe at Otiu
heite, to crojs over to the neighbouring ifland Uiietea.
A v'plenf contrary wind arifing, they could neither
Teach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their
intended pallage being a very Ihort one, their flock of
provifions/wj^s fcanty, and fpom exhinufled. The hard-
ihips they fqffered, \yiaile driven by the ftorm tliey knew
pot whither, are not to bt? conceived. They paUcd ma-
ny days without any thing to eat or drink. ' Worn out
by famine and fatiguq, their mjumbcrs gradually dimi-
niihed. Fqur men only furvived, when the can^oc ove-
fet ; and ;hen the perdition of thefe fepmed inevitable.
However they kept hanging by its fide, during Come of
the laft days, till providence brought them within fight
of the people ot this ifland, who immediately fent out
canoes, and brought theni alhore. Of the four thus la-
ved, one was fince dead. The othej^ three, who lived
to give this account of their mod miraculous tranfplan-
tation, fpoke highly of the kind treatment they here
mt:t with i and they were fo wqll fatisfied with, their,
prefcnt fituation, that they rcfufed the offer made to
them at Omai's requeft, of giving then\ a pafflage to
thf ir native iflands. The familiarity of mapner^s and
language had more than naturalized them to this fpot ;
and the frcfli connexions they had here formed, ami
which it would have been painful to have broken offj
after fuch a length of time, fufficiently account for this
refufal. They had arrived at this ifland at Icaft twelve
years ago*^ •

It ou N D T H B World.

< The landing, feys Capt. Cook,' of ourgcntclmcn on
this ifland, cannot bijt be contidered as a very Tortunate
jcircumftance. 1% has proved the means of bringing to
our knowledge a faft, not only very curious, but very
inftruftivc. The application of the above narrative
is obvious. It will ferve to explain, better than a thou-
iand conjectures of a thoufand Speculative reafoners,
how the detached parts of the earth, j^nU, in particular,
how the iflands of the South Sea, may have been firft
peopled J efpecially thofe that lie remote from any iftha-
bited continent, or from each other. Such accidents as
this probably happen frequently in the Pacific Ocean.
Ill 1696, two canoes, having on board thirty perfons of
both (exes, were driven, by violent contrary winds, to
the ifle of Samal, one of the Philipines, after being toft
about at fea 70 days, and haying performed a voyage,
from an ifland called by them Amorfot, 300 leagues to
to the caft of Samal. Five of the number died of the
bardihips they fuff;:red.

According to Omai's account of what he learned itl
converfation with his countrymen, the manners of thofe
iflanders, the method of treating ftrangers, and their
general habits pf life, are much like thofe that prevail
^t Otaheite, and its neighbouring ifles. Their religi-
ous ceremonies and opinions are alfo nearly the fame.
From every circumftance, indeed, it is indubitable, that
the iiativcS of Watecoq fprang, originally, from the
fame (lock, which has fpread itfelf fo wonderfully all
over the immenfe extent of the South Sea. One would
fuppofe, however, that they put in thieir claim to a more
jlluftrious extrafiion : for Omai faid, that they dignified
their ifland with the appellation of Wenoba no te Ea-
tooa, that is, a land of gods i edeeming themfelves a
fort of Divinities, and poffisfled with the (pirit of Eatooa.
This wild enthufiaftic notion Omai feemed to approve
^f : otbrerving, that there were inftances of its being
• ' * ' entertained

|Slf« Captain Coords thud Voyao|

entertained at Otahdte ; but that it was univerfally pre.
^▼alent among the inhabitants of Mataia, or Qfnabur^h
Ifland.

Capt. Cook left Watecoo, in the morning of the 4th
of April, fleering for the other ifland, which, as before
meatioQed, he had difcovered its vicinity.

'(f

B q O K. VL

CHAP. 11.

Rcfrcihmcnts obtained at Wenooa-ette. — Singularity
in the Natives of Hervey's Ifland. — Rich fubma-

. riric Grotto at Palmerfton's Ifland. — Arrival at the
Friendly Iflands. — Amiable charafter of the Natives.
— Defcription of their Ferfons.^Trj^nfaftions with
the Natives.— Captain Clerk's expedient to pre-
vent their Depredations.— Opinions of the Ifland-
crs of a Volcano. — Different entertainment^ cxhi-
bited by the Englifli and Natives.— Curious mode
of (having. — ^Vifit of Poulahb, King of the Friend-
ly Iflands. — ^Poulaho's inanimate Viceroy.— Olflfer.
ing to their Deity to deprecate Death. — ^Depar-
ture from the Friendly Iflands. - « ,

THIS ifland, at which they arrived the next morn-
ing, was uninhabited ; but the natives of Watce-
00 called it Wenooa-ette or Otakootaia. Here they
obtained a fupply 6t" cocoa-nuts for themfelves ; and
for their cattle fome grafs, and a quantity of the leaves

• and

Round th£ World.

39>

Kt morn-

acid branches of young cocoa trees, and of the Wham
tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the Pandanus of the
Eafl-Indics. This litter being of a foft, fpungy, }yAcy
nature, the cattle eat it very well, when cut into ihall
pieces ; fo that it may be literally faid, that they were
fed upon billet wood.

On the 6th of April, Captain G)ok arrived at Hcr«
vey's Illand, which he had difcovered in 17739 and
which he was now furprifed to find inhabited. In fais
intercourfe with the natives, he obferved that not one
of them had adopted the mode of ornament, fo general*
ly prevalent among the natives of this ocean, of pun&a^
ring, or tatooing their bodies ; although in other refpeds
he had the moft unequivocal proofs of their being of
the fame common race. Being difappointed in the
hopes of landing on this iiland, and the unfavourable
winds &c. having unavoidably retarded his progrefs fo
much, that it was impoflible to think of doing any thing
this year, in the high latitudes of the Northern Hemii-
phere. Captain Cook now thought it ncccflary to bear
away for the Friendly Iflands. But he firft refolved to
touch at Palmerflon's Ifland, which he had difcovered
in 1774, and where he arrived on the 14th of April
This iflandxonfifts of a group of about ten fmall uninha-
bited iflots, lying in a circular diredlion, and conne&ed
together by a reef of coral rocks.

While the Captain employed his boats here to pro-
cure ipefreftiments for his crew, he himfelf explored
whatever was curious in the external appearance of this
ifland, which he obferved to be fcarcely a mile in cir^
cuit, and not above three feet higher than the level of
the fea. It appeared to be entirely compofcd of a co-
ral fand, with a fmall mixture of blackiOi mould, pro-
duced from rotten vegetables. Notwithftanding this
poor foil, it is covered with a variety of trees and bufh-

•-.^

392 Captain Cook's riiiiiD Voyaga

es. At one part of the reef, which looks hito, oi'
bounds, the lake within, thers was a large bed of coral,-
almoft even with the furface, which afforded, perhaps,
one of the rtioft enchanting profpefts, that nature has,
any where produced. Its bafe was fixed to the fhore,
but reached fo far in, that it could not be fccn f fo that
it feemed to be fufpended in the water, which deepened
id fuddehly, that at the diftance of a few yards, there
might be feven or eight fathoms. The fea was, at this
time, quite unruffled ; and the fun, (hining bright, expo-
fed the various forts of coral in the mofl beautiful or-
der i fome parts branching into the w?««-er with great
luxuriance, others lying collected in round balls, and in
various other figures j all which were greatly heighten-
ed by fpangles of the richeft colours j that glowed from
a number of large clam^^ which were every where in-
terfpcrfed. But the appearance of thefe was ftill infe-
rior to that of the multitude of fifties, that glided gently
along, fecmingly with the mofl: perfeft fecurity. The
colours of the difFernt forts were the moft beautiful
that can be imagined j the yellow, blue, red, black, &c.
far exceeding any thing that art can produce. Their
various forms^ alfo, contributed to increafe the richnefs
of this lubmarine grotto, which could not be furveyed
without a pleafing tranfport, mixed, however, with re-
gret, iliat a work fo (lupendoufly eloquent, fliould be
concealed, in a place whei-e mankind could feldomhavd
an opportunity of rendering the praifes juftly due to fa
enchanting a fcene. With refpeft to the aniinal creati-
on, the moft fmgular that Captain Cook obfervedj were
fome large eels, beautifully fpotted, which when follow.
cd, would raife themfelvcs out of the water, with an
open mouth, to bite their purfuers. There was alfo a
brown-fpotted fifli, about the fize of a haddock, lo tame^
that inftead of Iwimming away, it would remain fixed,
and gaze at them. Had they been in abfolute want, a
fujlficient fupply might have been had ^ for thoufands of
- . .^"^ - , , "" clams

iiovi^D THE World.

393

dams already mentioned, ftuck upon the reef, fo me of
■which weighed two or three pounds.

In the night between the 24th atid 15th, Capt. Copk
paflcd Savage Ifland, which he had likewife difcovered
in 1774 ; and, on the aSth, he got fight of fome of the
Friendly Iflands, It was not, however, till the 1 ft of
May^ that he could come to anchor, at the ifland of
Annamooka, where he refumed the very fame ftation,
which he had occupied three years before ; and, pror
b^bly, almoft in the fame place where Tafman, the fifft
difcoverer of this, and fome of the neighbouring iflands^
anchored in 1643.

The Friendly Ifljtrids form a very extenfive Archipe-
lago. The natives reckoned up 1 50 of them, making
ufe of bits of leaves to afcertain their number. But
only fixty-one of thcfe have their proper places and
liames marked in Captain Cook's Chart of the Friendly
Iflands : for he was obliged to leave it to future navi-
gators, to introduce into the geography of this part of
the South Pacific Ocean, rhe exadl fituation and fiz;e of
near an hundred others, which he had not an opportu-
nity to explore. Among thefe iflands he continued a-
' bout two or three months ; during which time he lived
with the natives in the moft cordial friendlhip. Some
accidental differences, it is true now and then happened,
owing to their propendiy to thieving. But thefe were
never attended with any fatal confequcnces : on the
contrary, fevv on board the fhips left their friends here
Without regret. Nor will this appear wonderful, whea
we learn the amiable chara<Jler which Captain Cook ha?
given of thefe people.

* Their counteiiances, fays he, very remarkably ex»
prefs the abundant miidncfs, or good nature, which they
poflefs ; and arc entirely free from that favage keennef$
which marks nations in a barbarous itacc* Oae would^

Pd*

3P4

Captain Cook's third Voyaob

I-

; ;

kl I

indeed, be apt to fancy, that if they had been bred up
under the fevereft rcftriftions, to acquire an afpeft fo
fettled, and fuch a command of their paffions, as well
fteadinefs in their conduft, Bnt they are, at the

fame time, frank, cheerful, and good humoured j though
fometimcs, in the prefence of their Chiefs, they put on
a degree of gravity, and fuch a ferious air, as becomes
fliifand awkward, and has an appearance of ref^rve.

' Their peaceable difpofition is fufficiently evinced,
from the friendly reception all ftrangers have met with,
who have vifited them. Inflead of offeriiig to attack
them openly, or dandeftinely, as has been the cafe with
moft of the iuhabitants of thefe fcas, they have never
.appeared, in the fmalleft degree, hoftile ; but, on the
contrary, like the mofl civilifed people, have courted
an intercourfe with their vifitors, by bartering, which
is the only medium that unites all nations in a fort of
friendfhip. Perhaps, no nation in the world trafiie
"with more honefty and lefs diftruft, we could always
fafcly permit them to examine our goods, and to hand
them about, on€ to another y and they put the l;\me
confidence in us. If either party repented of the bar-
gain, the goods were re-exchanged with mutual confent
and good-humour. Upon the whole, they feem poffef-
fed of many of the moit excellent qualities that adorn
the human mind ; fueh as induftry, ingenuity, perfeve-
rance, affability, and, perhaps, other virtues which our
lliort flay with them might prevent our obferving.

' The only defe£l: fully ing their charafter, that we
know of, is a propenfity to thieving i to which, we
found, thofe of all ages, and both fexes addidled ; and
to an uncommon degree. It fliould however, be con-
fidered, that this exceptionable part of their conduft
feemed to exifl merely with refpedl to us ; for in their
general iotercourfe with one^ another, I had reafon to

think,

Round the World.

395

think, that thefts do not happen more frequently
(perhaps lefs fo) than in other countries, the diftioneu:
praftices of whofe worthlefs individuals are not fuppo-
fed to authorife any indifcriminate cenfure on the whole
body of the people. Qreat allowances (hould ht made
for the foible? of thefe poor natives of the Pacific Oce-
an, whofe minds were overpowered with the glare of
objefts. equally npw to them, as they were captivating.
Stealing, amongd the civilifed and enlightened nations
of the world, may well be confidered as denoting a
icharafter deeply flained with moral turpitude, with ava-
rice unreftrained by the known rules of right, and with
profligacy producing extreme indigence, and npglccfting
the means of relieving it. But at the Friendly and other
iflands which we vifited,- the thefts, fo frequently com-
mitted by the natives, of what we had brought along
with us, may be fairly traced to lefs culpable motives.
They feemed to arife, folcly, from an intenfe curiofity
or defirc to poflefs fomething which they had not been
accuilomed to before, and belonging to a fort of people
fo different from themfelves. And, perhaps, if it were
poflible, that a fet of beings, feemingly as fuperior in
our judgment, as we are in theirs, (hould appear amongfl
us, it might be doubted, whether our natural regard to '
juftice would be to reflrain many frqm falling into tbi$
?rror.'

• The natives of the Friendly Iflands, ' fays Captain
Cook,' feldom exceed the common fliature (though Wc
have meafurcd fome, who were above fix foot) j but
are very flrong, and well made ; efpecially as to their
limbs. They arc generally broad about the flioulders ;
and though the inufcular difpofition of the men, which
feems a confequence of much a<5lion, rather, conveys
the appearance of flrength than of beauty, there are
fevcral to be feen, who are really handfome. Their
featur^.s ar? very various j infomuch that it is fcarcely

poflible

39^ Captaim Cook's third Yoy^g^

poffible to fix on any general likcncfs, by which to
charafterife them, unlefs it be a fullnefs at the point o£
the nofe, which is very common. But, on the other
hand, we met with hundreds of truly European faces,
^nd many genuine Roman nofes, amongft them. ' The!/
eyes and teeth were good ; bat the laft neither fo re-
markably white, nor ("o well fet as is often found a-
iriong Indian nations ; |;hough, to bajance that, few of
them have any uncommon thicknefs about the lips, ^
defeft as frequeni: ^i the other perfedlion. ■ . :

* The women are not fo much diftinguiflied from the
men by their features as by their general form, which
is, for the moft part, deflitute of that ftrong flelhy firm-
nefs thctt appears in the latter. Though the features
of fome are fp delicate, as not only to be a true index
of their fex, but to lay claim to a confiderable (hare of
.beauty and expreffion, the rule is, by no means, fo ge-
neral as in other countries. - But, at the fame time, this
is frequently the moll exceptionable part j for the bo.
dies and limbs of moft of the females ^re well propor-i
tioned ; and fome, abfolutely, perfeft models of a beau-
tiful figure. But the moft remarkable diftin^lion in the
® women, is the uncommon fmallnefs and delicacy ot their
' lingers, which may be put in competition with the fined
in Europe, ^- ^ .^ ■ < '

< Their general colour is a caft deeper than the copper
brown ; but feveral of the men and women have a trus
olive complexion ; and fome of the laft are even a great
deal fairer ; which is probably the efFeft of being lefs
cxpofed to the fun ; as a tendency to corpulence, in a
few of the principal people, fecms to be the confequencc
of a more indolent life. It is alfo among the laft, that
a foft clear ikin is moft frequently obferved. Amongft
the bulk of the people, the Ikin is, moft commonly, of
a dull hue, v^ith fome degree of roughnefs> efpeciajly
V ., ; ■". - '■ / ^ ^ the

ROUI^D THE WORLW.

397

the parts that are not covered ; which, perhaps, pay
\i'i occafioned by.fome cutaneous difeafe. We faw it
inan and a boy at Hapaee, and a child at Annamooka,
perfeftly white. Such have been found amongfl all
black nations ; but, I apprehend, that their colour is ra-
ther a difeafe, than a natural phdenx)menon.'

Capt. Cook firft went on Ihore at Annamooka, the
chief of which illand, Toubou condu<Eled him and
Omai to his houfe, fituated on a pleafant fpot, in the
centre of his plantation. A fine grafs<»plot furrounded
ir, which, he gave them to underftand, was for the
purpofe of cleaning their feet, before they went within
tloors. The floor of this houfe was covered with mats ;
and no carpet in the moft elegant £ngli(h drawing-
room could be kept neater. But Capt. Cook found a
more ftrenuous friend in Taipa, one of the chiefs, who
had before vifited the^ (hips, in their firft intercourfe
with the canoes that' came off from fhore. He feemcd
to be the only aftive perfon about them; and, in order
to be near the party that had landed, in the night as
well as the day, had a houfe brought on men's Ihould-
ers, a full quarter of a mile, and placed clofe to the
(bed which the patty occupied.

Befides the operations of making hay for the cattle,
and filling the w'ater-cafks, a part^ was employed in cut-
ting wood. • The greatcft plenty of this laft article be-
ing a-bread of the (hips, in a fituation the mod conve-
nient for getting it on board, it was natural to make
choice of this, fhe trees here were a fpecies of pep-
per, called faitanoo by the natives, yielded a juice of a
milky colour, of fo corrofive a nature, that it raifed
blifters in the (kin, and injured the eyes of the work-
men. They v\erc, therefore, obliged to procure the
wood from another quarter. »

« -V ~ • Soon

ill

Bf<'

398 Captain Cook's third Voyage

Soon after they were vifited by a great chief, from
the principal ifland called Tongataboo. This chief,
whofe name was Feenou, Taipa was pleafed to intro-
duce as king of all the Friendly Iflands, a charafter,
although really a man of great confequcnce, he found
it expedient to lay afide. In the mean time, great
mutual civilities paffed between Feenou and Captain
IjCiook.

We have already remarked the genera! propenfity tQ
thieving in the natives of thefe iflands. Even fome of
the chiefs did not think the profeffion beneath them.
One of them was detefted carrying out of the (hip,
concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the
fpun-yarn winch j^ for which Capt. Cook fentenced
him to receive a dozen laflies, and keep him confined
till he had paid a hog for his liberty. After this, he
was not troubled with thieves of rank. Their fervants,
however, were ftill employed in this dirty work ; and
upon them a flogging feemed to make no great impref-
iion, than it would have done upon the main-mafl:.

On the 14th of May, Capt. Cook left Annamooka,
and fteered along a cluftcr of fmall iflands ; moft of
them entirely clothed with trees, amongfl: which were
many cocoa-palms ; and each forming a profpcdi like a
beautiful garden placed in the fea. To heighten this,
the ferene weather they now had, contributed very
much ; and the whole might fupply the imagination
with the idea of fome fairy land realized. After no-
ticing Toofoa, a volcanic ifle, at the diftance of twa
leagues, the fmoke of which they faw feveral times,
they arrived on the 1 7th, at the iflands, called by the
general name of Hepaee. The Friendly Iflanders have
fome fupcrftitious notions about the volcano upon
Toofoa, which they fay is an Otooa, or Divinity.

Capt,

.../-t^

O U N D THE

O R L D.

399

Capt. Cook's reception at Hapace Was the moft £o-
nonrable that can be imagined. The chiefs, not con^
tent with munificence^ entertained their vifitors with
a variety of diverfionsj among which were fingle com-
bats with clubs, and wreilling and boxing matches, in
the latter of which, even the women fignalized thcm-
felves. Feenou having expreftcd a dcfire to fee the
marines go through their military cxercife, the Captain
ordered them all afhore; and, after they had performed
various evolutions, and fired feveral vo Hi es^ with which
the numerous fpe^ators feemed well pleafed, the chief,'
in his turn, entertained them w ith an exhibition, which
was performed with a dexterity and cxaftnefs, far fur-
paffing the fpecimen juft given of our military exercifes.
It was a kind of dance, fo jntirely different from any
thing Captain Cook had ever feen, that, as he himfclf
obferves, no defcription can give an adequate idea of
It was performed by men; and 105 perfons bore

)t.

their parts in it. Each had in his hand an inftroment
neatly made, ihaped like a paddle, two feet and a half
long, with a fmall handle, and a thin blade ; fo that it
was very light. With thefe inftruments they made
many and various flourifhes, each of which was accom-t ..
pliftied with a different attitude of the body, or a difr
fcrent movement. At firft, the performers ranged,
themfelves in three lines, and, by various evolutions,
each man changed his ftation in fuch a manner, that thofe
who had been in the rear, came in the front. Nor did
they long remain in the fame pofition, but thefe changes
v/ere made by pretty quick tranfitions. At one time
they extended themfelves in one line ; they then form-
ed themfelves into a femicircle ; and laftly, into two
fquare columns. While this lafl movement was exe-
cuting, one of them advanced, and performed an an-
tic dance before the Captain, which terminated the
whole.

The

400 Captain Cook's third Voyage

, The mufical inftruments confifted of two drums* of
rather two hollow logs of wood, from which fome va*
tied notes were produced. The dancers* however,
did not feem to be much afllfted by thefe founds, but
by a chorus of vocal mufic, in which all the performers
joined at the fame time. Their fongs were, not dedi-
tute of pleafm^ melody i and all their correfponding
motions were executed with fuch fkill, that the nume-
rous body of dancers feemed to aft as if they were one
great machine. * If was the opinion of every one of
14s,* fays Capt. Cook, ' that fuch a performance would
have met with univerfal applaufe on the European thea-
tre ; and it Co far exceeded any attempt we made to
entertain them, that they feemed to pique themfelves
upon the fuperiority they Ijad over us. As to our mu-
ficstl inftriiments, they held none of them in the lead
cfteem, except the drum ; and even that they did not
think equal to their own. Our Frenchhorns, in par«
ticular, feemed to be held in great contempt.*

Gaptam Cbolc. defifous to give them a more favour-
able idea of the EngUfb amufements, and to leave their
minds fully imprtffed with a deep fenfe of our attain-
ments, played of fome fire-works in the evening, moft
of which fucceedcd fo pcrfeAiy, tis to anfwer the ecd
he had in view. The water and fky rockets in particu-
lar, pleafed and aflonilhed them beyond all conception j
ind the fcale was now turned in our favour.

This* feemed only to furnifh them with an additi-
onal motive to proceed to frelh exertions of their fin-
gular dexterity ; and our fireworks were no fuoner
ended, than a fucceffion of dances, which Feenou had
got ready for our entertainment, began. As a prelude
to them, a band of jnulic, or chorils of eighteen rinen^
feated themfelves before us, in the centre of the circle,
compofed by the numerous fpedlators^ the area of which

RdufjD THE World.

401

^as to be the fcene of the exhibitions. Pour or five of
this tpand had pieces of large bamboo, from three to
five or fix feet lorig, each managed by one man, vho
held it nearly in a vertical pofition, the upper end
open, but the other end dofed by one of the joints.
With this ciofe end, tljie performers kept conftamly
ftriking the ground, though flowly, thus producing
different notes, according to the different lengths of the
indruments, but all of them of the hollow or bafe fort }
to counteraft which, a perfon kept (Irikiug quickly,
and with two flicks, a piece of the fame fubltance,
fplit, and laid along the ground, and, by that means^
furnifhing a tone, as acute, as thofe produced by the
others were grave. The red of the band, as well as
thofe who performed upon the bamboos, fuiig a flow;
and foft air, which fo tempered the harlher notes of
the above inftruments, that no bye-ftander, however
accuftomed to hear the moft pcrfcdl and varied modu-
lation of fweet foun4s, could not avoid confeffmg the
vafl power, and plcafing effeft, of this fimple har-
mony.

The concert having continued alsout i quarter of
an hour, twenty women entered the circle. Moft of
them had, upon their heads, garlands of the crimfon
flowers of the Chinefe rofe^ or others ; and many of
them had ornamented their perfons with leaves of trees,
cut with a gteat deal of nicety about the edges. They
road? a cirle round the choriis, turning their feces to*
■«ra» *G it, and began by fmging a foft air, to whicb re*
fi>onfes were mack by the chorus in the fame tone, and
thcfe were repeated ahernatcly. AH this while, the
women accompanied their fong with feveral very
graceful motions of their hands towards their faces,
and in other dircdlions at the fame time, making con**
flantly a flep forward, and then back again, with one
foor, while the other was fixed. They then turned

JBee their

- \

46i Captaik Cook's THIRD VoYAdjS

their faces to the affcmbljr, Aing feme time, and re-
treated flowly in k body, to that part of the circle
which was oppofite the hut where the principal fpe£^a-
tors fat. After this, one of them advances from each
fide, meeting and pafling each other in the front, and
continuing their progrci? round, till they came to the
reft. On which two advanced from each fide, by in-
tervals, till the whole number had again formed a circle
about the chorus.

Their manner of dancing was now changed to a
(Quicker meafurc, in which they made a kind of half
turn by Icapiftg, and clapped their hands, and fnapped
their fingers, repeating fome words in conjunction with
the choriis. Towards the end, as the quickncfs of the
mufic increafed, their gtftures and attitudes ^.vere vari-
ed with vS^onderfuI vigour and dexterity ; and fome of
their irfotio'ns, pfcrhaps, ^oiild, with us, be reckoned
rather ittdccferit. Though this part of the performance,
ftioft probably, was niot meant to convey any wanton
ideas, but merely to difplay the aftoniftiinfg variety of
their movement«rf

If'o this grand female baflet, Succeeded a variety of
other dances, in which the men bore a principal part.
In fome of thefe the dancers increafed their motions to
a prodigiotis quicknefs, ftiaking their heads^ from ftiould-
er to (boulder, with fuchforcc^ that a fpeftator, unac-
cuftomed to the fight, would fuppofe they ran a rifk of
•diflocating their necks. Their difcipline was adinira-
-blc i and, in no inftance was it more remarkable, than
iii the fudden tranfitions they fo dexteroufly made, from
the ruder exertions and harfli founds, to the fofteft air?,
and mod gentle movements.

While Capt. Cook was at Hapaec, he obferved a
troman ihaving a child's head, with a ihark's tooth,

fttick

Round thb Would.'

4^3

)r, unac-

jluck into the end of a piece of flick. She firft wet
the h^ir with a rag dipped in water, applying the in-
flrument to that part which (he had previouily foaked.
The operation feenjed to give no pain to the child j
although the hair was taken off as clofe as if one of
our razors had been employed. Capt. Cook tried one
of thefe inftrutnents upon himfelf, and found it a goo4
i'uccedaneum. But the men have another contrivance
when they (have their beards. They'take two fhells,
one of which they place und^r ^ fmall part of the
beard, and with the other applied above, they fcrape
that part oE In this manner they are able to (have ver]^
qlofe.

On the 27th of May, Capt. Cook had an opportut
nity of difcovering that Fecnou was not the king of
the Friendly Idands, but only a (ubordinate chief ; by
a prudent regulation in their government, the natives
have an officer over the police, or fomething like it.
This department, when we were amongft them, was
adminiflered by Feenou ; whofe bjuilne^ it was to pu«
niih offenders, whether againfl the ilaxe, or againfl in*
dividuals. He was alfo GeneraliiOlmo, ind command**,
ed the warriors, when called out upon lervice. The
king took fome pains to inform us of Feenou's office^
and among other things told us, that if he himfelf
ihould become a bad man, Teehou would kill him.
What I underftqod of being a bad man, was, that if
he did not govern according to law, Feenou would be
ordered, by the other great men, or by the people a|L
large, to put him to dcs^th. *

The next morning the king came on board, and
brought as aprefent to the captain, one of their" <:aps,
made, or at lead covered, with red feathers'. Thefe
caps were much fought after by the fliip's company ^
u they knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite.

^i:

:'i'

yf®4 Captain Cook's third Voyaoe

But thongh very large prices were offered, not one was -
ever brought for laic ; which ihcwed they were no
Iffs valuable in the e(linnation of the people here.
Thefc caps, or rather bonnets, are con\pofed of the
tail feathers of the tropic bird, with tlie red feathers of
the parroqucts wrought upon them, or jointly with
them. They are made fo as to tie upon the forehead
without any crown, and have the foim of a fcnalcir-
clc, whoferadius is i8 or aoinches. ,

Some time after the Captain (leered for Tongataboo;;
While he was plying up to the harboar, the king kept
failing round them m his canoe. There were at the
fame time, a great many fmall canoes about the (hipq.
Two of thefe, which could not get out of the way of
his f oyal yelfel, he ran quite over, with as little con-
cern, as if they had been bits of wood. AtT'ongaita
t)oo Capt. Cook's reception was no lefs hofpitable than
It had been at Hepaee ; grand entertainments of fongs
and dances, with exhibitions of wreHling and boxing
being fuccefllvely given.

One day the king canie on board the Reiblution, an4
4. brought with him his fon, a youth about I2 years of
age. The king dined with the captain, but the fon^
iho' prefenty was hot allowed to ut down with hinv
It was very convenient to have hino for a gueft ; for
when he vias prefent, every other native was excluded;
whefeas,if neither he nor Feenou were on board, the in-
ferior chiefs would be very importvmate to be of our
dining party. The king ws^s Very foon reconciled to;^
our mann^'rof cooking. But ftill) we believe, he dined
with us more for the fake of what we gave him to drink'
than for what we fet before him to eat ; for he had
taken a liking to our wine,, would empty his bottle as
well as mo(t men, and was cheerful over it. But not-
ivithllanding thi»frieOvily intercourfe. Cape. Cook uilce

R o u H i> T H fi World.

405

thought proper to put the king, his brother* Frecnou,
and fome other chiefs, under arreft, till a kid, two tur-
key cocks, and fome other things, that had been ftolen,
were reftored. This expedient was fuccefstul ; and
tho*, at firil, it made them (hy, ii 4>4 not dimtnifh the
friendfliip with which ihcy ilill deported themfelves.

On the 17th of July, Capt. Cook fet fail from Middle-
burgh or Eaoo, which wa^ the laft ifland he vifited,
during his intercourfe with thd natives of this Archipe-
lago, and with a light breeze at S. E. he now (leered
for the Society Iflands. The time employed among
the natives of the Friendly Iflands was not thrown
away. We expended very little of our fea provifions j
fabhfting m gencral^, upon ih« prodiKie of the ifkndSi
Tfhile weflaid ; ami carrying away with us a quantity
of provifions fufRcient to laft till our arrival at aiiother
ftaiion, where we couW depend upon a frelh fup^ly.
We was not forry* befides, to have an opportunity of
bettering the condition of thefe good people, by leav-
ing feveral very ufeful animals among ihem i iMid, at
the fame time, thofe dcfigned for Oiaheite, received
freQiftrength in the paftures of Tongataboo. Upon
the whole, therefore, th« advanugcs we received, by
touching here^ were very great i and we had the ad-
ditional fatisfadlioH to retledl, that they were received
without retarding one monoent; the piofecuiion of die
great objciSt of our voyage j the feafon for proceeding
to the North) being, as hafr already been obferved, lo{l|
before we took the refolution of bearing away fo£ thefe
^ands.

' i'?,;.7 "^

BOOK

*o6 Captain Cook's third Voyage

BOOK

CHAP.

III.

\ \

Ifland of Toobouai difcoy€rc4— A-i^rival at Otahei^-r
Omai's reception— Interview with Waheladooa, th?
chief of Tiarabpo— On\ai*s imprudent conduct—
Girls, drefled to bring a prefent — Omai s war canoe
— Otoo's prefent and meflage to the king of Great
Britain — Departure from Oiaheite, and vilit to Eimeo
— Conclufion of the hiftory of Omsu^ and of the two
New Zealand youtl^s.

ON the 9th of Auguft 1777. Gapt. Cook difco-
vercd the fmall ifland Toobouai, lyin^ in the lat.
of 23 deg. 25 min. S. and in 210 deg. 37 mm. E. long.
But as the natives who approached the (hips in their ca-
noes, could not be ptrfuaded to come on board, and
the Captain had no inducement to land, there, he pro-
ceeded on his voyage. * *

On the 1 2th of Atig. he faw Maitea, one of :he So-
ciety Iflands, and foon after Otaheite. We (hall now
confine ourfelvcs chiefly to the reception which Omai
met with amongft his countrymen, to fomeof the moft
remarkable occurrences in Capt. Cook's intercourfc
with the friendly nauvcs.
'^' ':r ' ' " ,.• When

ftouND THE World.

407

When we iirft came near the ifland, feveral cauoes
came < fJ" to the (hip, each conduced by two or three
men. But, as they were commoiY fellows, Omai took
no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They,
^id not, even feem to perceive, that he was one of
their countrymen, aliho* they,converfed with him for
ibme time. At length a chief, whom I had known
before, named Ootee, and Omai's brnther-in-law, who
chanched to be at this corner of the ifland, and three
or four more perfons, all of whom knew Omai, before,
he embarked withCapt. Furneaux, came on board.
Yet their was nothing either tender or ftriking in their
meeting.. On the contrary, their feemed to be a per^
k&. indifference on both fides, till Omai, having taken
his brother down into the cabin, he opened the drawer .
where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few.
This being prefcntly known, amongft the rcfl of the
natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entb*ely
turned, and Optee, who would hardly fpcak to Omai
before, now begged that they might be tayop (friends)
and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour,
and confirmed it with a prefent of red feathers ; and
Ootee, by way of return, fent afhore for a hog. But
it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the .
man, but his property, they were in love witn. Had
he not fhewn to them his' treafure of red feathers,
which is the commodity in greatefl eflimation at the
ifland, I qucflion much whether they would have bc-
flowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's
reception amongft his countrymen. I own, I never eji-
pe<Jled it would be othcrwife ; but flill, I was in hopes,
that the valuable cargo of prefents, with which the
liberality of his friends in England had loaded him,
would be the means of raifmg him into confequence,
and of making him refpe£led, and even courted, by
the iirfl perfons throughout the extent of the Society
iQands. This could not but have happened* had he

conduced

Ad$

..^_

Captain Cook's thtrd Voyaob

condit<5led hm(e\f with iny Acgtcc of prudence. Elut,
inftead of it, I am lerry to fay, that he paid too little
regard to the repeated advice of thofe who wifhed him
ivcll, and fufeed himfclf to be duped by every defign-
ing knave;

The important hewS, of red feathers being on
Ward OHr feips, having been conveyed oil ftiore bjr
Omai's friefida, day had no fponer bcfgun to break, iiext
moraingjthen we were furrgundcdby a multitude of ca-
JK)€fl, crowded with people, bringing Hogs to market.
At firft, a quantity or feathers, not greater than what
inightbe got from a torn-tit, wpuld purchafe a hog, of
forty or fifty pounds weight; 3ut as almoft every be
dy in the (hips was pofleired of foijie of thl^ precious ar-
ticle of tradcj it fell, in its value, above five hundred
per cent, before night; However, even then, the ba-
lance Was much in our favour ; and red feathers con-
tinHcd to preferve their fuperiorlty over every other
commodity. Some of tlie natives w6uld not part with
a hog, unlefs they received an ax in exchanpfe ; but
Bails, beads, and other trinkets, which, during our for-
mer voyages, had fo great a run at this ifland, were
BOW fo much defpifed, that few would deign to look
at thera.

Jn the raerning of the 1 3th, Captain Cook caole to
si^ncbor m a bay called Oheitepeha. Soon after, Omai'i
fifter came on board to fee him ; and the Captain was
happy to obfervc, that, much to the honouf of each,
their meeting was marked with expreffions of the moft
tender afFe£l:ion. After this moving fcenc, Omai and
the Captain went albore.' Here, the attention 0^ the
former was foon drawn to an old woman, the fifter of
his mother. She was already at his feet, and had be-
dewed them plentifully with tears of joy. The Captain
left hi.ii with the old lady, encircled by a number of

people,

, ♦■•Wf

feoUND THE WoRL

40ji

jjeopie, in order to go and take a vieW of a lioufc and
crofs erefted by the Spaniards. When he returned, he
found Omai holding forth to a large company ; and it
was with fome difficulty he could be got away to ac-
company the Captain on board. Captain Cook, it fcemsj
had found, from the natives, that two Spanifh (hips from
Lima had twice put into Oheitepeha Bay, (Ince his laft
vifit in 1 774. They had left fome hogs, dogs, goats, a
bull, and a ram, on Ihore. The firft time they came,
they buiit a houfe, sind left four men behind them, car-
rying away four of the natives. In about ten months,
the fame (hips returned, bringing back two of the ifland-
ers, the other two having died at Lima. After a fliort
flay,, they took away their own people, but left the
houfe (landing. This Was iittiated at a fmall diflance
from the beach. The wooden materials, of which it
vraS compofed, feemed to ha/e been brought, ready
oared, to fet iip occafionally ; for all the planks were
u umbered. It was divided into two fmall rooms ; and^
in the inner one, were a bench; a table, a bedflead^
fome old hats, and other trifles, tif which the natives
f^CAicd to be very careful, as alfo of the houfe itfelf,
which had fuffered no hurt from the weather^ a flied
having been built over it. There were fcattlcs all a-
roundi Which ferved as air-holes ; and perhaps, they
were alfo meant to fire from, with mufquets, if ever it
fliould have been found neceffary. At fome diftancci
flood a wooden crofs, on the tranfverfe part of which
was cut

CHRIST US VINCIT.

And on the perpendicular part was, 1

Carolus ilL Imperat. 1774*

On the other fide of the poft, Captain Cook toojc t^t^

4id Captain Cook's third VoyacA

to prcfervethe memory of the prior vifits of the EngliClij
by infcribing, -

GfiORGius ITertius rex,

. Aniiis 1767,1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777.

Near the foot of this crofs was the grave of the Com^
modorc of the two (hips, who died here, while they lay
in the bay, the firft time. The Spaniards feem to have
taken great pains to ingratiate themfelves with the in-
habitants, who, on every occafion, mentioned them with
the ftrongefl: expreffions of efteem and veneration. The
former, however, did not fucceed in their attempts to
depreciate the charafter of the Englifli. One of the
four pcrfons who;:; i>ey left behind, and whom the na-
tives called Mateenj. .de himfelf very popular. He
took uncommon pains . j ftudy their language, that he
might be enabled to imprefs their minds with the moft
exalted ideas of the greatnefs of the Spanilh Monarchy,
and make them think meanly of the Englifli. He even
went fo far as to affure them, that we no longer exifted
as an indcpefidant nation ; that Pretane was only a fmall
ifland which they, (the Spaniards) had entirely deftroy-
ed ; and that as for Captain Cook, they had met with
him at fca, an^, with a few Ihot, had fent his fliip, with
every foul in her to the bottom. All this and many
other improbable falfehoods, did the Spaniards make
thefe people believe. But, if Spain had no other views,
in this expedition, than to depreciate the Englifh, (he
had better have kept her fliips at home ; for Captain
Cook's return to the ifland (which, in courfe, was quite
unexpeAed^ was conjfidered as a complete i^efutation of
all that Mateema had faid.

Waheiadooa, the Sovereign of Tiaraboo, (which
Ixras the name of this part of the ifland) was now abfent.

(This

Round the WorldI

'(This was not the fame perfon, though of the fame
name, with the Chief, whom Captain Cook had feen
here during his laft voyage; but his brother, a boy a-
bout ten years old, who had fucceeded on the death of
the elder Waheiadoo, about twenty months before,
and was now under'the tutorage of a Chief, named E-
torea. The celebrated Queen Oberea was dead.)
However, he foon after fent a meffage to notify his
arrival, and to defire that the Captain would vifit him
aihore. Accordingly Omai and the Captain prepared
to make him a formal vifit. On this occafion, Omai,
aflifted by fome of his friends, drelTed himfelf j not after
the Englifti faftiion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of
Tongataboo, nor in the drefs of any country upon
earth ; but in a ftrange medley of all that he was pof-
feffed of. There was nothing remarkable in this inter-
view, except the information that Captain Cook receiv-^
ed, that the Spaniards, when they vifited the ifland, had
defircd the CJiiefs not to fuffer him to enter Oheitepeha
bay, if he {hould return again, for that the ifland belong-
ed to them. But the perfon, who addrefled me with
this information, that they were fo far from paying any
regard to this requeft, that he was authorifed now to
make a formal furrcnder of the province of Tiaraboo
to me, and of every thing in it ; which marks very
plainly, that thefe people are no ftrangers to the policy
of accommodating themfclves to prefent circumftanccs.
At length, the young chief was direfted, by his attend-
ants to come and embrace me ; and, by way of con-
firming this treaty of friendftiip, we exchanged names.
Tne ceremony being clofed, he and his friends^ accom-
panied me on board to dinner.

Omai had juft prepared a maro, compofcd of red
and yellow feathers, which he intended for Otoo, th.e
king of the whole ifland, and confidering where we
were, it was a prefent of great value. I faid all that I

couW

^tZ Captain Cook's third Voyage

could to perfuade him not to produce it now, wifliing
him to keep it on board till an opportunity (hould offer
of prefenting it to Otoo, with his own hands. But
Jbe had too good an opinion of the honedy and fidelity
pf his countrymen to take my advice. Nothing would
fervc him, but to carry it afhore on this occafion, and to
give it to Waheiadooa, to be by him forwarded to
ptoo, in order to its being added to the royal Maro.
He thought, by this management, that he fliould
oblige both chiefs ; whereas, he highly difobliged the
pne, whofc favour was of the mofl confequence to
him, without gaining any reward from the other. For
Waheiadooa kept the marp himfelf, and only fent to
Otoo a very fmall piece of feathers ; not the twen-
tieth part of what belonged to the magnificent pre-
iept.

On the 24th of Auguft, Capt. Cook left the bay pf
Qheitepha, and in the eyening anchored in Matavai
Bay, in another part of the ifUud, whence he expeded
his principal fupply. Here he and Omai had an inter-
view with Otop, the king of the whole ifland. Omai
had prepared himfelf for this ceremony, by drcifing
himfelf in his very beft clothes, and behaved with a
great deal of modefly. Neverthelcfs, very little% no-
tice wasf taken of him. Perhaps, envy had fc ^e (hare
in producing this cold reception. He made the chief a
prcfcnt of a larf;e piece of red feathers, and about
two pr three yards of gold cloth $ and I gaveliim ^
fuit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, fome tools, and,
y^hat was of more value than all the other articles, a
Quantity of red feathers, and one of the bonnets in ufe
at the Friendly Iflands.

After the hurry of this vific was over, the king, and
<he whole royal family, accompanied us on board, fol-
lowed by fevcral csmoes. laden with all kin4 of prov;-

Upns;,

Round the World,

4^3

fions, In quantity fufficicnt to have fcrved the comr
panics of both (hips for a week. Each of the family
pwned, or pretended to own, a part ; fo that we had a
prefent from evefy one of them ^ and a every one of
them had a feparate prefent in return from me j which
was the great obje£l in view. Soon after, the king*$
mother, who had not been prefent at the firft interview,
came on board, bringing with her a quantity of proT
vifions and cloth, which flie divided between me and
Omai. For, although he was but little noticed at firft,
by his countrymen, they no fooner gained the know-
ledge of his riches, than they began to court h;s friend-
ship. I encouraged this. as miich as I could; for it was
ray wifti to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave
all my European animals at this ifland, I thought he
would be able to give fome inftruftions about the ma-
nagement of them, aud about their ufe. Befides, I
knew and faw, the farther he was from his native
ifland, he would be the better refpefted. But, unfor-
tunately, poor Omai rejefted my advice, and conduced
himfelt in fo imprudent a manner, that he foon loft
the fricndfhip of Otoo, and of every perfon of nt)te
in Otaheite. He affociatcd with none but vagabonds
and ftrangers, whofe fole views were to plunder him.
And, if I had not interfered, they would not have left
him a fmgle article worth carrying from the ifland.
Ihis neccffarily drew upon him the ill-will of the prin-
cipal chiefs J who found that they could not procure
from any one in the (hips, fuch valuable article^ of pre-
fcnts, as Omai had bellowed^n the loweft of tue peo-
ple, his companions.

Our friend Omai got one good thing at this ifland,
for the many good things he gave away. This was a
very fine double failing canoe, completely equipped,
and fit for fea. Some time before, I made up for him,
a fuit of Engliih colours y but he thought thcfe too va-
luable

414 Captain Cook's THIRD VoYAoji

luable to be ufed at this time ; ancl patched up a par,
eel of colours, fuch as flags and pendants, to the num.
ber of ten or a dozen, which he fpread on different
parts of his veflel, all at the fame time j and drew to-
gether as many people tq look at her, as a man of war
would, dreffed in an European port. Thcfe ftreamers
of Omai's, were a mixtutc of Englilh, French, Spanifh,
and Dutch, which were all the European colours that
he had feen. When I was lafl at this ifland,! gave to
Otoo an Englifti jack and pendant, and to Towha a
pendant ; which I now foijfnd they had prcferycd witl^
the greaceft care.

Omai had had alfo provided himfelf with a good
flock of cloth and cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in
great plenty, but much better, at Otaheite, than at any
of the Society Iflands ; infomuch that they are articles
of trade. Omai would not have behaved lo incon-
fiftently, and fo much unlike himfelf, as he did, in
many inftances, but for his fifter and l^rother-in-law,
who, together with a few more of their acquaintance,
cngroffed him entirely to themfelves, with no other
view than to ftrip him of every thing he had got. And
they -would, undoubtedly, have fucceeded in their
fcheme, if I had not put a flop to it in time, by tak-
ing the moft ufeful articles of his property into my pof-
fcflion. But even this would not have faved Omai
trom ruin, if I had fuffered thefe relations of his "to
have gone with, or to have followed us to, his intended
place of fettlement, Huaheine. This they had intend-
ed J but I difappointed their farther views ot plunder,
by forbidding them to ihew themfelvcs in that ifland,
while I remained there; and they knew me too well not
' to comply.

On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed
me, that he had got a canoe, which he defired I would

tak?

ftoutJD THE World*

talce with me, and carry home, as a prcfent to the Earee
rahic no Pretane ; it being the only thing, he faid, that
he could fend worth his Majefty's acceptance. I was
riot a little pleafed witli Otoo, for this mark of his
gratitude. It was a thought entirely his own, not one
of us having given him the leaft hint about it ; and it
ftiewed, that he fully underftood to whom he was in-
debted for the moft valuable prefents he had received.
As it was too large for me to take on board, I could
only thank him for his good intention ; but it would
have pleafed him much better, if his prefent could have
been accepted.

The frequent vifit€ we have lately paid to this ifland,
feem to have created a full perfuafion, that the inter-
courfe will not be difcontinued. It was ftriftly enjoined
to me by Otoo, to requeft, in his name, the Earee rahie
no Pretane, to fend him, by the next ftiips, red fea-
thers, and the birds that produce them ; axes, half a
dozen raufquets, with powder and (hot j and, by no
means to forget horfes.

fn the nrtorning of the 30th of September Captala
Couk left Otaheite ; and, the fame evening, arrived at
Eimeo. Here, the lofs of a gnat, which was ftolen, for-
ced him into an hoftile expedition acrofs the inland -, nor
was this animal (at that conjuncture of great Importance
to him) given up, till fome houfes and canoes were
burnt. On the nth of 0<5lober» he (leered for Hua-
hcine, where ii was his intention finally to fettle Gmai,
and where he arrived the next morning. Our arrival
here, brought all the principal people of the ifland to
our (hips. This was juft what I wilhed, as it was high
time to think of fettling Omai ; and the prefence of thefe
Chiefs, I guelfed, would enable me to do it in the moft
fatisfadory manner. He now feemed to have an 'incli-
nation to eftablilh himfelf at Ulietea ) and if he and I

could

4i6 Captain Cook's thIrd Voyage

could have agreed about the rnode of bringing that
plan to bear, I (hould have had no objedion to adopt it.
His father had been difpoffelled by the men of Bolabola,
,when they conquered Ulietea, of fome land in that i-
fland ; and I made no doubt of getting it reftdred to the
fon in . an amicable manner. For that purpofc it was
iieceflary, that he ftiould be of good terms vs^ith thofe
who now were mailers of the ifland ; but he was too
great a patriot to liften to any fuch thing ; and was
vain enough to (uppofe, that I woald reinftate him in
his forfeited lands by force. This made it impoffible
to fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me Huaheine
as the proper place. I, therefore, refolved to avail my-
lelf of the prefence of the chief men of the ifland, and
to make this propofal to them.

After the hurry of the mdrning was over, we got
ready to pay a formal vifit to Taireetareea, meaning
then to introduce this bufmefs. Omai drefled himfelf
very properly on the occafion ; and prepared a handfome
prefent for the Chief himfelt, and another for his EatOQa.
Indeed, after he had got clear of the gang that fur-
rounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with fuch pru-
dence as to gain refpedl. Our landing drew moft of
our vifiters from the fhips ; and they, as well as thofe
that were on fhore, affembled in a large houfe. The
concourfe of people, on this occafion, was very great i
and, amongft them, there appeared to be a greater pro-
portion of perfonable men and women than we had e-
ver (een in cae aflembly at any one of thefe iflands.
Not only the bulk of the people feemed, in general^
much ftouter and fairer than thofe of Otaheiie, but there
was alfo a much greater number of men who appeared
to beot confequence, in proportion to the extent of the
illand ; moft of whom had exa£tly the corpulent appear-
ance of the Chiefs of Wateeo. We waited foitie time
for Tareetareea, as 1 would do nothing till the Earee

rahie

AGE

igtng that
D adopt it.
F Bolabola,
I in that i-
>red to the
»ofe tt was
with thofe
le was too
; and was
tate him in
c impoffible
e Huaheine
o avail my-
ifland, and

iver, we got
sa, meaning
fled himfelf
a handfome
r his EatoQa.
g that fui-
1 fuch pru-
ew moft of
fc\\ as thofe
loufe. The
^ery great i
greater pro-
n we had e-
lefe iflands.
in general^
Lc, but there
lO appeared
!Xtent of the
lent appear-
1 fome time
the Earee
whie

OUND THE WoRlD.

4i?

Hhie cariie j but whert he appeared, I found thdt his
preftncc might have be^n difpenfed \<rith, as he wais
not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who ftood
at a little diftance from thi« circle of great riien, began
with making his offering to the gods, confiding of red
feathers, cloth &c. Then followed another ofFeringj
vihxch was to be given to the gods by the Chiefs i aind
after that, fcveral other fmall pieces and tufts of red
feathers were prefented. Each article was laid before
one of the company^ who, I underftood, was a prieft,
and w^S delivered With a fet fpeech or prayer, fpokeri
by one of Omai's friends, who fat by him, but moftly
diftated by himfelf. In thefe prayers, be did not forget
his friends in England, nor thofe who had brought hirh
fafe back. The Earce rahie no fretane, Lord Sandwich,
Toote, Tatee, Gook andClerk, were mentioned in every
one of them. When Omai's offerings and prayers vi^ere
ftnifhed, the prieft took ^ach article, in the fartie order
in which it bad been laid before him, and after repeat-
ing a prayer, fent it to the mbrai ; which, as Omai told
lis, Was at a greait diliance, either wife the offerings
would have been made there.

Thefe religious ceremonies ha;ving been ^erforniecf,
Omai fat down by me, and we entered upon bufinefs,
by giving the young Chief my prefent, and receiving
his in return $ and, all things Confidered, they Wttc li-
beral enough, on both lides. Some arrangenients weife
neit agreed upon, as to the manner of cari'ying on the
iniercourfe betwixt us; and I pointed out the ittifchiev-
6us eanfeqtieixes that would attend their robbing us,
as they had done during my fornier vifits; Omai's efta-
blifhment was then propofed to the aficmbled Chiefs.

He acquainted them, that he had beeft cartled toqur
country, where he was well*' received by the great King
and his Earccs, and treated with every mark of regard

G g; g >hmI

4lS Captain Cook's third Voyao*

and afTeflion, while he ftaid amongd us; that hehact
been brou^.it back again, enriched, by our liberality,
' with a variety of articles, which woulcl prove very ufe-
ful to his countrymen ; and that, befides the two Kor-
fes which were to remain with him, feveral other new
and valuable animals had been left at Oiaheite, which
willfoon multiply, and furnifh afufficient number for the
ufe of the iflands in the neighbourhood. He then fig-
nificd to them my earneft requcft, in return for all my
friendly Otfices, that they would give him a piece of
land, to build a houfe upon, and to raife provifions for
himfelfand fervants; adding, that, if this could not be
obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by pur-
chafe, I was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix
him there.

Perhaps I have here made a better fpeech for my
friend, than he actually delivered ; but thefe were the
topics I didated to him. I obferved, that what he con-
cluded with, about carrying him to Ulietea, feemed to
meet the approbation of all the Chiefs j and linftantly
faw the reafon. 0:rai had as I have already mentioned,
vainly flattered himfelf, that 1 meant to ufe force in re-
ftoring him to his fathei's lands in Ulietea, and he had
talked id'y, and without any authority from me, on
this fubjeclt, to feme of the prelcnt aflembly; who
dreamed of nothing lefs than a hoftile invafion of Ulietea,
and of being aflifted by me to drive the Bolabolamen
out of that ifland. It was of confequence, therefore,
that I (hould undeceive them ; and, in order to this,
^ I lignified, in the moft peremptory manner, that I nci.
ther would aflilt them in fiich an enterprife, nor fuffey
ft to be put in execution, while I was in their feasj
and that, if Omai fixed himfelf in Ulietea,. he muft
be introduced as a friend, and not forced upon the
' BQlalola men as their conqueror.

Tlus

Round the World.

419

This declaration gave a new turn to the fentimentf
cf the council. One of the chiefs immediately cxpref*
fed himfclf to this efFe(5l: That the whole ifland of Hua-»
heine, and every thing in it, were minei and that, there-
fore, I might give what portion cf it 1 pleafed to my
friend. Omai, who, like the reft of his coumrymen,
feldon) fees things beyond the prefent moment, \ as

freatly pleafed to hear this \ thinking, no doubt, that
Ihould be very liberal, and give him enough. But to
offer what it woqld have been improper to accept, 1 con-
lidered as oH'ering nothing at all, and therefore, I no\v
delired, that thfcy would not only afiign the particular
fpot, but alfo the exacft quantity of land, which they
would allot for the fettlement. Upon this, feme chiefs,
who had already left the airembly, were feni for ; and,
after a fhort confultation among ihemfelves, my requeft
was granted by general confent,[and tpe ground imme-
diately pitched upon, adjoining to. the houfe. where
our meeting was held. T he extent along the hpte. of
the harbour, was about 2oo yards ; and its clept,h
to the foot of the hill, fomewhat mor*; but a pro-,
portionabk part of the bill was included in ths
grant. '

This bufinefs being fettled to the fatisfadlion o\ ajt
parties, I fet up a tent alhore, eftabliOied a poft, iin4
ere(5led the obfervatories. The carpenters of both
(hips were fet to work, to build a houfe for Omai, in
which he might fecure the European commodities that
were his property. At the lame time fome hands were
employed in making a garden for his ufe, planting
(haddocks, vines, pine-apples, melons, and the feeds
of feveral other vegetable articles ; all of which I had
the fatisfa(5lion of obferving rb be in a flouriihing ftate
before I left the ifland.

Qniai now began feiioufly to attend to his own af«>

fairs.

I I

420 Captain Cook's third Voyage

fairs» and repented heartily of his ill-judged prodiga-r
lity while at Otaheite. He foi -d at Huaheine, a bron
^her, a filler, and a brotheir-in law, the fiftcr being
married. But thefe did not plunder him, as he had later
ly been by his other relations. I was (brry, hqwever,
to cl^fcover, that, though they were too honeft to dq
him any injury, they were of too little confcquencje in
thq ifland to do him any good.

A man who is richer than his neighbour, k fure to
be envied, by numbers who wifli to fee him broughi
^own to their cwn level. And what was his principal
diinger, he was to be placed in the very fuigU;ljar fitua-i
tion of belong the only rich mani in the conununity to
which h© was to belong. And having by a fortupatQ
^qnneftion with us, got into his poiTcflion an accum^^
lated quantity of a fpecies of treafurc which npne oF
his countrymen could create by any art or indu^ry oi
^is own J while all. coveted a llvarc o^ this envigd
^we?iltb, as it was n,atural to apprehend, th^t aU
Would be ^eady to jpin in «|.ttempting to, f^rip itsj foJa
proprietor.

To prevent this, if poffible, I advifed him to make
a, proper diftribution of fome of his movables, to two
Cy three of the principal chiefs ; who, being thus gra-
tified themfclyes, might be induced to take himi under
their paironage,'and proteft him from the injuries of
ethers. He promifed to fgUow my advice, j^nd t; hPard,
with fatisfaftion, before I (ailed^ that this prudcijt flep
tad been taken. I took every oppoirtuhijy gf notifying
to ihc inhabitants, that it was my intiention to return to
|his illand again, after being abieut the ufual tine.} an4
that if 1 did not find Qmai in tht fame ftate of fccurity
in which I now leave him, all thoie whom I fliqiild then
difcover, to have been his enemies, might cxpeft to feel
the weight of my reXentnic%

• ^ pmai's

R o 7 N D THE World.

4«i

rodiga-t

a bron

r being

id later

fure |Q
broughii

^r fitua-«
unity tQ
artupato
accum^^
noae of
lu^ry ot
i envi|?4
th^t sA\
its; ible

Ipmai's

Oma's houfe being nearly finiflacd, many of his mov-
ables were carried afhore on the 26th. Amongft a va-
riety of other ufelefs articles, was a box of toys, which,
wtien expofed r^ public view, feemed greatly to pleafe
the gazing multitude. But as to pots, kettles, plates,
difties, drinking-mugs, glaffcs, and the whole train of
our don^eftic accommodations, hardly one of his coun-
trymeri vyould fo much as look at them. Omai himfelf
now began to think that they were of no manner of life
to him ; and therefore he very wifely difpofed of as
mauy of tbefe articles of Engliih furniture for the kitch-
en and pantry as he could find purchafers for, amongft
the peopie of the fhips, receiving from them, in return,
h?tchets, i^nd other tools, which had a more intrinfic
value in this part of the world, and added more to his
diftinguifliing fuperiority over thofe with v/hom he wa«
to pa6 the remainder of his days.

As fooH as Qinai was fettled in his new habitation, I
began to think of leaving the ifland ; and got every
thing oflF from the ftiore, this evening, except the horfe
and marc, and a goat big with kid ; which were left
in the poffcffion of our friend, with whom wc were
now finally to part. I alfo gave him a boar and two
fows of the Engliih breed j and he had got two fowsof
tis own.

The hklory of Omai will, perhaps, mtereft 3 very
Bumeirous clafs of readers, more than any other oc-
currence of a voyage, ^he objects of which do not, in
general, proraife much entertainment. Every circum-
ftance, therefore, which may ferve to convey a fatisfec-
tory account of the exaft fituation in which he w&j
left, will be thought worth preferving ; and the fol-
lowing particulars are added, to complete the view of
his domeftic eftablifliment, He had picked up at Ota-
kite four or five Toutous j the two Zealand youths rc-
. mained

42? Captain Cook's THiab Voyage

mained with him i and his brother, and feme others,
joined him at Huaheine : fo that his family confided al-
ready, of eight or ttn perfons ; if that can be called a
femily, to which not a fmgle female, as yet, belonged ;
nor, I doubt, was likely to belong, unlefs its mafter be-
came Icfs volatile.

The houfe which we ere£l-ed for him was 14 feet by
18 1 and 10 feet high. It was compofed of boards,
the fpoils of our military operations at Eimeo ; and, in
building it, as few nails as, poflible were ufed, that
there might be no inducement, from the love of iron,
to pull it down,

His European weapons confided of a mufquet, bay-
onet, ?ind cartouch-box, a fowling-piece, two pair of
pillols } ^nd two or three fwords or cutlaffes. The
pofTefFion of thefe made him quite happy ; which was
my only view in giving him fuch prefents. For I was al-
ways of opinion, that he would have been happier
without fire-arms, and other European weapons, than
with them \ as fuch implements of war, in the hands
of one, whofc prudent ufe of them I had fome grounds
for miftrufting, would rather increafe his dangers, than
cftablifti his fuperisrity. After he had got on (bore
every thing that belonged tq- him, and was fettled in
his new habitation, he had mod of the officers of both
ihips, two or thres times, to dinner, and his table was
always well fuppli^d with the vjery heft provifions that
the ifland produced.

Before I failed, I had the following infcription cut
upon the outfide of his houfe :

Gcorgius Tcrtius, Rex, 2 Novcmbris, 1777.

Naves

O U N D THE

o %ttii

4«5

-- C Rcfolution, Jac. Cook. Pr.

Naves ^ Difcovery, Car. Clerke, Pr.

On the 2d of November, at four o'clock in the after-
noon, I took the advantage of a breeze, which then
fprung up atE. and failed out of the harbour. Moft of our
friends remained on board till the ihips were under fail j
when, to gratify their curiofity, I ordered five guns to
be fired. The men all took their leave, except Omai,
who remained till we were at fea. We had come to
fail by a hawfer faflened to the fliore. In carting the
(hip, it parted, being cut by the rocks, and the outer
end was left behind ; as thofe who caft it off, did not
perceive that it was broken ; fo that it became neceffary
to ffnd a boat to bring it oa board. In this boat Omai
went afliore, after taking a very afFeftionate farewel
of all the officers. He fuflained himfelf with a manly
refolution, till he came to me. Then his utmoft effort
to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr. King, who went
in the boat, told me, that he wept all the time in go-
ing alhore. ^

It was no fmall fatisfaftton to refledl, that we had
brought him fafe back to the very fpot from which he
was taken. And, yet, fuch is the (Irange nature of
human affairs, that we left him in a lefs defira' . fitua-
tion, than he was in before his connexion wiu. ". I
do not, by this, mean, that, becaufe he has talted the
fweets of civilifed life, he muft btcome more miferablc
from being obliged to abandon all thoughts of continii-
ing them. I confine myfelf to this fingic difagreeable
circumftance, that the advantages he received from us,
have placed him in a more hazardous fituation, with
refpeft to his perfonal fafety. Omai, from being much
carcffed in England, loft fight of his original condition;
and never confidered in what manner' his acquifitions,
cither of knowledge or of riches, would be efteemed

4^4

Captain, Cook's tiIird VoYAofi

by his countrymen, at his return j Which were the on-*
ly things he could have to recommend him to them
now, more than before, and on which he could build
either his future greatnefs or happinefs. He feemed
*ven to have miftaken their genius in this refpeft} andj
in fame mcaforc^ to have forgotten their ciiftoms ; o-
therwife he muft have knbwn the extreme difficulty
there would be in getting himfelf admitted as a perfon
of rank, where there is, peri:;aps, no inftance o^ a man's
being raifed from an inferior Itation by the grcateft me-
rit. Rank feems to be the very foundation of all di-
ftift^ioti here, and, of its attendant, power; and fo
pertinaeioufly, or rather blindly adhered to, that, un-
lefs a perfon has fome degree of it, ht will certainly be
defpifed and hated, if he affumes the appearance of ex-
ercrfmg any authority. This was really the cafe, in
fome mcafure, with Omai ; though his countrymen
were pretty cautious of expreffing tlieir fentiments while
wc remained among them*.

Omai*s father was a man of confiderable property
in Ulietea, when that ifland was conquered by thofe of
Bolabola ; an<f, with many others, fought refuge in
Buahcine, where he died, and left Omai, with fome
other children ; who, by that means, became totally
dependant. In this fituation he was taken up by Cap-
lain Furncaux, and carried to England. Whether he
really expefted from his treatment thefe, that any af-
fiftance could be given him againftthe enemies of his
father and his country j or whether he imagined that
his own perfonal courage, and fuj'teriority of know-
ledge, would be fufficient to difpoflci . the conquerors of
Ulietea, is uncertain ; but from the beginning of the
voyage, this was his conlhmt theme. He would not
lift'en to our remonftrances on fo wild a determination,
but flew into a pallion, if more moderate and rt afonable
counfcls were propofed ior his advantage. Nay, fo

infatuated

ttdUND tHE WaRLft.

Infatuated and attached' to his favotirite felSiCmc Was h^^_
that he affcftcd to believe thcfe people would certainly
quit the conquered ifland, as foon as they (hould feea^
of his arrival in Otahcite. As we advanced, however^
on our voyage, he became more fenfible of his error i
and, by the time we reached the friendly iflands, had
even fiich apprehenfions of his receptioil at home, that!
he would fain have ftaid behind at Tongataboo, under
Feenou^s pro'te^ion; At thefe iflands, he fquandcrecf
away much of his Etiropean treafure very unneceffariJy j
and he was equally imprudent at Tiaraboo, where hc
could have no view of makhig friendsf, as he had not!
any intention of remaining there.

Whatever faults belonged to Omai's charafter, they
were more than over-balanced by his good-nature and
docile difpofition. During the whole time he was With
me, i very feldoni had reafon to be ferioudy difpleafed
with his general conduct. His grateful heart always re-
tained the higheft fenfe of the favours he had received
in England ; nor will he ever forget thofe who honour-
ed him with their proteftion and friendthip, during hii
ftay there. ,

Omai*s return, and the fubflantial proofs he brought
back with him of our liberality, encouraged many to
offer themfclves as volunteers to attend me to Pretanc.
I took every opportunity of expreffing my determina-
tion to rejeft all fuch applications. But, Uotwitliftand-
ing this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining
the only great traveller, being afraid left I might, be
prevailed upon to put others in a fituation of rivalling
him, frequently put me in mind, that Lord Sandwich
had told him, no Other of his couutryn^itt were to c^me
to England.

ff there haxl been the mt)fl! dHlant probability of any

H h h Mp

■»<

nmiii

4^6 Captain Cook's third Voyaoi

fliip being again fent to New Zealand, I would have
brought the two youths of that country home with me,
as both of them were very defirous of continuing with
us. Tiarooa, the eldeft, was an exceeding well dif-
pofed young man, with ftrong natural fenfe, and capa-
ble of receiving any inftrudion. He feemed to be very
fenfible of the inferiority of his own country to theie
iflands, and refigned himfelf, tho' perhaps with reluc-
tance, to end his days in eafe and plenty, at Hnaheine.
But the other was To ftrongly attached to us, that he
was taken out of the (hip, and carried alhore by force.
He was a witty, fmart boy, and on that account, much
noticed on board.

MBHll

B O O K nt.

CHAP. IV*

Arrival at Ulietea— Intelligence from Omai— Defcrtion
from the (hips— The chiePs family confined on that
account — Confpiracy to feize the captain's Cook and
Clere — Dcferters brought back — Chriftmas ifland and
the Sandwich iflands difcovered^ &c. &c. *

THE next ifland which Capt. Cook viiited was that
of Ulietea, where he arrived on the 30th of Novr
1777. Here he remained upwards of a month. He
yi^ iliU near enough to Omaiy to have intelligence of

his

Round the Worlds

427

hi^ proceedings ; and, having dicfired to bear A'om.hini^
the latter, about a fortnight after the Captain's de.
parturc from Huaheine, fcnt two of his people in %
canoe, who brought the fatisfa^ory intelligence, tha$
he remained undidurbed by the people of the ifland^
and that every thing went well whh him, except that
his goat had died in kidding.. This intelligence was
accompanied by a requeft, that the Cfiptain would fen4
him another goat, and two axes. The meffengers were
according fent back with the axes,. an4 t^ro kids, n;ial<^
and female.

In the night, between the 12th and' 13th, a marine
deferted from his pofl: at the obfcrvatory, carrying
with liim his mufquet and accoutrements. Capt. Cook
went, with a (Irong party, in purfutt of him, and.
found him in a. houfe fitting between two women, whO:
inftantly rofe to plead in his behalf. The Captain, in
order to difcountenance fuch proceedings, frowned on
them, and bid them be gone : upon which they burft
into tears, and walked onT The fellow had nothing to
fay in h|s defence, but tha,t the natives had enticed him
^way.

On the 24th, the defbrtion of a midfhipman and a
ieaman had like to have been attended with more feri*.
ous confeqaei^ces. As the nat;ve3 were evidently de-
firous of concealing the defcrters,^ the difficulty of re-
covering them was great. The purfuit after the fugi-
tivs was ineifeftual : they had efcaped to the ifland of
Bolabola. ^ ^ '

On the 26th, Oreo, the chief of Ulietea^ with his,
fon, daughter, and fon-in-law, went on boarcl the Re-
folution. The three lafl: being invited by Capt. Clerkc-
to go on board the Difcovery, were immediately con-
ned ia the cabin. The chief, who iliil remained on

bovd;

438 Captain Cook?'s third Voyaojc

board the Refolution, was infornied that he had liberty
to depart, anfl if he recovered the two dcferters, his
family fliould be releafed, but that, othcrwife, they
ihould be carried away when the fliips iiiiled. This
CKpedJent proved fuccefsful, altho* very dangerous :
for a fchenje had been formed to feize the pcrfon of
C^pt. Cook^as he went to his ufual badiing-place; and
^Ifo Captain Clerks and Lieutenant Gore, as they vvere
ivalking on -fliore: but Capt. Cook did not judge it fafe
iu fuch critical circum£tancc$, to rqjeat his bathing ^
and a piftol in Capt. Clerke's hand had intimidated the
iiatives. The confpiracy \yas firft difcovercd by a girl,
yrhom one of the oificers had brovight from Huaheine.
On the 28 th, Oreo brought back the two deferters,
who had been taken on the fmall ifland of Toobaee j
pud the family of Oreo was immediately releafed.

bnthe SthofDecc 'ber, Capt. Cook vifited 3oIaboIa,
where he flayed no longer than to pprchafe of Qpoonyj
ihe chief of that ifland, the anchor which had been left
there by M. Bougainville.

Leaving the ifland of Bolabola, we (leered to the
Northward; and in the night between the 22d and 23d,
crofTed the line in the long, of 205 deg. 15 mio. E!
On the 24th tliey difcovercd an iiland, which they
called Chriflmas iifaud, a fmall, barren, and uninhabitei
ipot. Having weighed anchor ©n the 2d of Jan. 1778,
they refumed their courfe to the Northward, and on the
J 8th, difcovercd fevcral fmaJl illands in the lat. of 21
deg. 12 min. N. and long. 200 deg. 41 min. E. for one
of thcfe they fleered j and, at firft, were in feme
doubt whether or no it was inhabited. However, they
foon faw feveral canoes coming off from the fhore to-
•^ards the (hips, which were immediately brought to,
|o give them time to join* They had from three to fix
^ea e^ch j and 00 their a|>proach, it was an agreeable

furprifc

Round t*h s W o r o^d.

4«9

furprifc to find that they fpoke the language of Ota-?
jieite. It required but liitk riddrefs to get them to come
along-fide ; but no entreaties could prevail on any of
them to come on board. T heir behaviour feemed per-
fedlly inofFenfive, and they had no arms of any kind,
except fome fraali ftones, vhich they had evident\y.
brought for their defence, ard which they threw away
when they found they were not wanted.

Capt. Cook proceeded to coafl along the ifland, in
fearch of anchoring ground, thefe canoes left him ;
but others came off, bringing with them r-Qaded pigs,
and fome fine potatoes, which they exchanged for what-
ever was offered them. Several pigs were .purchafed
for a fixpenny nail. The next morning we met with
JTeveral more canoes filled with people, fome of whom
cook courage and ventured on board.

In the courfc of our voyages; we never before met
with the: natives of any place fo much aflonilhcd, as
thefe people were upon entering a Hiip. Their eyes
were continually flying from objcA to obje^; the wiJd-
pefs of their looks and geftures fully expreiling their
intirc ignorance about every thing they faw, and
itrongly marking to us, that, till now, they had never
been vifited by Europeans, nor been acquainted with
any of our commodities, except ircn ; whicli, how-
ever, it W''\s plain, they had only heard of, or had
Jtnown it in ioihe fmall quantity, brc ught to them qt
fome diftant period. Plates of ea:ihen-ware, china
cups, and other fuch things, they were fo new to
them, that they alked if they were made of wood, and
wiftied to have fome, that they might carry them to
be looked at on fliore. They were in fome refpcd ^la-
iurjilly well bred,, or 4t leaft, fearful of giving offence,
afking where they fliould fit down, whether they iiiight
fpit upon the deck, and the like. One of the natives
'* - . having

45c>

CapYain' Cook^s third VavAoi

having ftolen a butcher's cleaver, leaped overboard,
got into his canoe, and h;a{tcned. to the ihure, the boa t$
pnrfued him in vain.^

Having fent, three vmpd boats under the command
of Mr. Williamfon, to. look for a landing place, and for
fifcfti water, about noon, Mr. \V>niamfon came back,
and reported, that he ht^ feen a large pond behind a
beach near one of thjc villages, which, ^he natives told
him contained frefh water ; and that there was an-
choring ground before ic He alfo reported, that he
attempted to land in another place, but was prevented
by the natives, vho, coming down to, the bpats in
great numbers, attempted to take away the oars muf*
quets, and in Ihort, every thing they could lay hold
of; and prefled (6 thick upon hi\m, that he was obliged
to fire, by which one man was killed^ But this un-
happy circumftance I did not know till after we had
left the ifland ; fo.that all my meafares were direcSied
as if nothing of the kind had happened. Mr. Willi-
amfon told me, that after the man fell, his country-
men took him up, carded him off,, and then retired
from tlft boat, but flill they made iignals for our peo-
ple to land, which he declined. It did not appear to
Mr. Williamfon, that the natives had any defign to kill,
or even to hurt, any of his party ; but they feemed
excited by mere cunofuy, to get from them what they
had, being at the fame time, ready to give, in return,
any thing of their own.

In the afternoon of the 20th, I went afhore with
three armed boats, andtwelve marines, to exannne the
water, and to try the dirporition of the inhabitants, fc-
veral hundreds of whom were aflcmbled on a fcndy
beach before the village ; behind it was a narrow val-
ley, the bottom of which was occupied by the piece of

^rf)*r\f

The

Round thb World.

43«

The very inftant I leaped on (here, the colleAed bo«
dy of the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and re-
mained in that very humble pofture, till, by expreffive
figns, 1 prevailed upon them to rife. They then brought
a great many imall pigs, which they prefented to me,
with plantain-trees, ufing much the fame ceremonies
that we had feen pradlifed on fuch occafions, at the So-
ciety and other iflands ; and a long prayer being fpoken
by a (ingle perfon, in which others of the affembly
fometimes joined. I expreiied my acceptance of their
proffered friendfliip, by giving them, in return, fuch
prefents as I had brojght with me from the (hip for
that purpofe. When this introduAory bufinefs was fi-
nifhed, 1 ftationed a guard upon the beach, and ^ot
fome of the natives to conduA me to the water, which
proved to be very good, and in a proper fituation for
our purpofe. It was fo confiderable, that it may be
called a lake; and it extended farther up the country
than we could fee. Having fatisfied my ielf about this
efTential point, and about the peaceable difpofition of
the natives, I returned on board \ and then gave or-
ders that every thing (hould be in readinefs for land-
ing and filling our water-caiks in the morning (the 2ift)
when 1 went a(hore with the people employed in this
fervice, having a party of marines with us for a guard,
who were (^tioned on the beach.

As foon as v^e landed, a trade was fet on foot for
hogs and potatoes, which the people of the iflaod
gave us in exchange for nails and pieces of iron, form-
ed into fomething like chiifels. We met with no ob-
^ruftion in watering i on the contrary, the natives af-
flllcd our men in rolling the calks to and from the pool}
and readily performed whatever we required. Every
thing thus going on to my fatisfa^tion, and conlidering
my prefcnce on the fpot as unneccffary, I left the com-
mand to Mr. Wiiliamfon, and made an e^curfion in-
to

43a Captain Cook's third Voyagb

ro the country, up the valley, accompjtnted by fjlr.
Anderfon and Mr. "Webber. A numerous train of
Natives followed us ; and otic of thr^m, whom I had
diftinguilhed for his a^ivity in keeping the reft in or-
der, I made choice of iis our guide. This man, for
fomc time, proclaimed our approach 5; and every one
whom We met, feff proftf ate upon the ground, and re-
mained in that pofition till we had paffed. This, as I
afterwards underftood, is the mode of paying their
refpcft to their own great chiefs.

At fun-iet, I Tt>rought feme of the natives on board,
having procured in the courfe of the day 9 tons of wa-
ter ; we exchanged nails for 80 pigs and a few fowls.
ITiefc people merited our beft commendations, in this
coitimcrciaT intcrcoiirfe, never once arrtrapting to cheat
usv Some of thbm, indeed, a^ already nYencioned, at
firl^, betraved a thieviih difpofition j but they foon
Jaid afide the?!- conduct, which, we convinced- rhcm,
tfiey could npt perfevere in wkh impunity^

Amongrt the a'rticlies which tbcy brought to tarter,
this day, we could not help taking notice of a particu-
lar fort of clo*k and cap^ which, even in Countries
where dref* is more particularly attended to, might be
reckoned elegant. The firft, arc nearly of the fizc and
fhape of the (hoi t cloaks worn by the women inEnglard,
and the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of the
back, and tied loofcly before. The gfound of thtrm is
a net-work, upon which the moft beautiful red and
■ydlew feather?* arc fo clofely fixed, that clje furface
might be compared to the thicUeft and richeft velvet,
whieh tbey relemble, both as to the feel, and the giof-
•fy appear?,ncc. The means of varying the mixture is
If cry different ; feme- having triangular Ipaces of red and
yeWow alterviateliy v others a kind of crcflent ; and fome
that were en tifely red, had a broad yellow border,
^ ■ which

R b ij N b THE World.

43i

\^liich made them appear, at fome diftance, cxaAly like,
a fcarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The brilliant co-
lours of the feathers, in thofe that happened to be new^
added not a little to thciir fine ajjpbarancd ; iind we
found; thi^t thejr were in high eftimation with their
owners 5 for they would not, at firft, part with one of
them, for any thing that we offered, alking no lefs a
price than a mufquet i but fome were afterwards piir-
chafed for lar^e nails.

The cap is made almoft exdiftly like a helmet, with
thfc middle .p'afti oi- creft, fometimes of a hand's
breadth; and it fits very clofe upon the head, having
notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs aftd
ofiers, covered with net-work into which are wrought
feathers, in the fame maftner as iipoji the cloaks, tho*
rather clofcr, and lefs divcflified ; (he greater part be-
ing red; with fome blrfek, yellow, or green flripes, on
the fidcsi following th^ curve direction of the creft.
Tliefe, probably, eomplete the drefs, with the cloaks,
for the natives fometimes, appeared with both on to-
gether;

Oil the 29th, Capt. Cook left Atooi, being driveii
from the road by ftrefs of weather, and foon arrived
off" the illand of Oneeheow. Here they were vifiiedTls
before by the natives in their canoes. Many of them
came readily on board; crouching down upon the deck,
and hot quitting that humble poflure, till they -were
defined to. get up. They had brought feveral females
with tHem, who remained aldng.fide in their canoes,
behavirtg with far lefs modefty than their country tvo*
men of Atooi J and, at times, all joining in a fong, not
remarkable for its melody, though performed in very
exaft concert, by beating time upon their breafts with
dieir hands. The men who had come on board,
did not flay long ; and before they departed, fome of

Numb. 1^. ^ t I i i them

434 Captain Cook's third Voyaob

them requeded our permiillon to lay down on the deck,
locks of their hair.

On Sunday, Feb. i, I went aftiore in the pinnace,
taking with me a ram-goat and two ewes, a boar and
fo^-pig of the Englifli breed; and the feeds of me-
lons, pumkins, and onions ; being very defkous of be^
nefiting thefe poor people, by'fiimiftiing them with fome
additional articles of food. To one of them, whom
Mr. Gore had obferved afTuming fome command over
the reft, I gave the goats, pigs, and. feeds. I (hould
have left ihefe well-intended prefents at Atooi,
had we not been fo unexpeftedly driven from that
ifland.'

While the people were engaged in filling four w «. '•
calks, I walked a little way up the country, attended
by the man above-mentioned, and followed by two
others carrying the two pigs. As foon as we got upon
a riling ground, I ftopped to look round me ; and ob-
ferved a woman, on the oppofite fide of the valley
where I landed, calling to her country women who at-
tended "me. Upon this, the chief began to mutter
fomething which I fuppofed was a prayer ; and the
two men, who carried the pigs, continued to. walk
ror^-d me all the time, making, at leaft, a dozen cir-
cuits before the other had finifhed his crayfon. This
ceremony being performed, we proceeded ; and, pre-
fently, met people coming from all parts, who, on be-
ing called to my attcrJants, threw themfelves proftrate
on their faces, till I was out of fight. The ground,
which I paffcd, was in a ft ate of nature, very ftony,
and the foil fecmed poor. It was, however, covered
v/ith Ihrubs and plants, fome of which perfumed the
air with more delicious fragrancy than I had met with
at any of the other iflaiids vifited by us in this part of
the ocean.

! Thefe

Round t h e W o r l b.

435

Thcfetwo iflands of Atooi and Oneeheow> were part
of aclufterof iflands, now firft di'*-overed, to which
Capt. Cook gave the name of Siicdwich iflands. It is
worthy of obfervaiion, that the iflands in the Pacific
Ocean, which our late voyages have added to the
geography of the globe, have been generally found
lying in groups or clufter^ ; the fingle intermediate
iflands, as yet difcovered, being few in proportion to
the others; tho*, probably, there are many more of
them ftill unknown, which ferve as fteps between the
fevcral clUflers. Of this newly difcovered. Archipela-
go, Gapt. Cook now faw five, whofc names, as given
by the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oree-
houa, and Tahoora. Of Atooi, which is the largcfl:,
we (hall proceed to give the mofl interefting par-*
ticulars.

The inhabitants are of a middling ftaturc, firmly
made, with fome exceptions, neither remarkable for a,
beautiful (hape, nor for flriking features, which rather
exprefs an opennefs and good-nature, than a keen in-
telligent difpofition. Their vifage, efpecially amongfl:
the women, is fometimes round, but others have it
long; nor can we fay, that they are diftinguilhed, as a
nation, by any general caft oi countenance. Their co-
lour is- nearly of a nut brown, and it may be difficult
to make a nearer comparifon.. The women arc a little
more delicate thaa the men, in their formation ; but I
may fay, that, with a very few exceptions, they have
little claim to thofc peculiaricics that diftinguifli the fex.
in other countries. However, upon the whole, they
are far from being ugly, and appear to have few natUi.
ral deformities of any kind.

They are vigorous, afl-ive, and expert fwimmers j.
leaving their canoes upon the mofl trifling occafion,
diving under them, and fwimming to others, tho' at a

43^ Captain Cook's th^rd Voyage

great diftancc. It was very common to fee women,
with infants at the bread, when the furf, was fo high,
that they could not ]and in the canoes, leap overboard^
and without endangering their little ones, fwim to the
ihore, through a fea that looked teadfuh

From the number which we faw coUu-^led at every
village, as we liiiled paft, it may be fiippufed, jhat the
.inhabitants of this ifland are pretty numerous. Any
computation, that we m^jce^ can be only con)ectural.
But, that fome notlqn may be formed, vfhich ihall not
greatly err on eithe^ fide, I would (uppofc, that, in-
cluding the Itragling houfcs, there might be, upon, the
whole illand, fixty fuch villages, a? thi^t before which
we anchored i and that, allowing five perfons to each
toufe, there would be, in every village, five hundred;
or thirty thoufand upon the iflmd. This number is,'
certainly, not exagerated; for we had fonietimes three
ihoufand perfons, at leaft, upon the. beach j w.h en k
could not be fuppofed, that above ^ tenths part of lAvQ
inhabitants were prelent, .^ * • >

The wqn^en have large pieces of cloth wrapped round
them, ireaching from juK below the breaft to the ham^,
or lower; and fevera.1 were fecn with pieces thrown
Joofely about the flioulders, vihich covvTcd Uie greateft
part of the body; but the children, when very young,
are quite naked. They wear nothing upon the head ;
but the hair, in both fexes, is cut in different forms ;
und the general fafhion, efpecially among ti;\e women, is,
to have it long before, and fliort behind. The men
often have it cut, or (haved, on each fidcj in fuch- a .
manner, that the remaining part, in fome meafure,'re-
femblcs the creft of their caps or helmets, formerly de-
icribed* Both fexes, however, feem very carelcfs about
their hair, and have nothing like combs to drefs it with.
infta»cc;s of wearing it, in a^ lingular Tiianner, wc|r<;
^' ' > • ' . ' fcmeiimc^

^yomen,
b high,
rboard^
n to the

t every
that the
;.: Any
jectural.
(hall not
Liat, in-
pott. the
e which
to each

undrctl i
mber is,
es three
w.hen it
rt of the

Round the W

o K h D»

457

fbmetimes irict with among the men, who twift it into a
number of feperate parcels, like the tails of a wig, each
about the ♦hicknefs of a finger; though the greateft part
ofthefe, which are fo long that they reach far' down
the back, we obferved, were artificially fixed upon the
head, over their own hair. It is remarkable, that, con-
trary to the general pradlicc of the iflands we had hither-
to difcovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people of the
Sandwich Iflands have not their c&rs perforated; nor
have they the Icaft idea of wearing ornaments in them.
Both lejkes, neverthelefs, adorn themfelvcs with neck-
laces niade of bunches of fmall b'ack cord, like our hat-
ftring, often above a hiindred-fold; cxadlly Uke thofe
of Wateeoo; only, thati inftead ot the two little balls,
on the middle before, they fix a fmall bit of wood, ftone,
or (hell, about two inches long, with a broad hook,
Uirning forward at its lower pait, well polKhed. They
have, Ukewife, necklaces of maiiy fttingsof very fmall
ftiells,or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow. And
fometimes, a fmall human image of bone, about three
inches long, neatly poUfhed, n hung round the neck.
The women alfo wear bracelets of a fiiigle fliell, pieces
of black wood, w ith bits of ivory intei fperfed, and well
poli (bed, fixed by a firing drawn very clofely through
them; or others of hogs teeth, laid parallel to each o •
ther, with the concave part outward, and the points
cut o*f, fattened together as the former; fome of which '
made only of large boars' tulks, are very elegant. The
men, fometimes wear plumes of the tropic birds Tea*
ihcrs, (luck in their heads; or thofe of cocks, fattened
round neat polilhed fticks, two feet long, commonly
decorated, at the lower part, with oora; and, for the
fame purpofe, the flun of a white dog's tail is fevved
over a ftick, with its tuft at the end. They alfo, fre-
quently, wear on the head a kind of ornament, of a
finger's thicknefs, or more, covered with red and yel-
low feathers, curipufly varied, and lied behind} and oA

jhe

43^

Captain Cook's third Voyage

the arm, above the elbow, a kin4 of broad fhell-work^
grounded upon ne£-work.

The men are fr«quenily punAured, though not in any
particular part, as the Qtabeitans, and tbo ft; of Tonga-
taboo. Sometimes there are a few marks upon their
hands, or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we
could obferye norje at allj though a few individuals
hadnaoreof this fort of ornament, than we had ufually
feen at other places,, and ingenioufly exetuted in a great
variety of lines and figures, on the arms and fore part
of the belly; on which latter, fojTie of them had the fi-
gure of the taame, or breaft-plate, of Otahcite, though
\ve did not meet with the thiiigitfelf amongft. them.

Though they feem to have adopted the mode of living
in villages, there is no appearance af defence, or forti-
fication^ near any of them: and theboufesare fcattered
about, without any order, either with refped to the dif-
tances from each other, or their pofition in any parti-
cular dire«Tion. Neither is there any proportion as to
their ITzei fome being large and commodious, from forty
to fifty feet long, and twenty or thirty \)road, while o-
thers of them are mere hovels. Their figure is not un-
like oblong corn, or hay-flacks: or, perhaps, a better
idea may be conceived of tliem, if we fuppofe the roof
a barn placed on the ground, in fuch a manner, as to
form *a high, acute ridge, with two very low fides, hard-
ly difcernable at a diftance. The gable, at each, end,
correfponding to the fides, makes thefe habitatious
perfectly clofe all rou*^ ' i and they are well thatched
with longgrafs, which is laid on flender poles, difpofed
with fome regularity. The entrance is made indifferent- j
ly in the end or fide, fi'd is an oblong hole, fo low,,
that OKC mud: ratliei creep than walk in ; and is often |
ihut up by a board of piaaks, fattened together, which
(crves as a door, but having no hinges, muft be remo-
ved

Round the World.

439

vcd occafiohally. No light enters- the houfe, but by
this opening i and thoujgh fuch clofe habitations may
afford a comfortable retreat in bad weather,, they {eem
but ill adapted to the warmth of the climate. They
arc howcvir, kept remarkably clekn j and their floors
are covered with a large quantity of dried grafs, over
which they fpread mats to fit and flfecp upon. At one
end Hands a kind of bench, about three feet high, on
which their houlhold utenfils are placed. The cata-
logue is not long* It confifts of goiird-fhells, which
they convert into veflels thit ferve as bottles to hold
water, and as baikets to contain their vidluals, and o-
thcr things, with covers of the fame; and a few wooden
bowls and trenchers, of different fizes. Judging from
what we faw growing, and from what was brought to
market, there can be no doubt, that the grcateft part
of their vegetable food confifts of fweet potatoes, taro,
and plantains; and that bread-fruit and yams are rather
to be efteemed rarities. Of animal food, they can be in
no want ; as th6y have abundance of hogs, which run,
without reftraint, about the houles ; and if they cat dogs,
which is not improbable, their ftock of thefe feemed to
be very confiderable. The great number of lidMng-
hooks found among ihern, fliewed that th^y derive no
inconfiderable' fupply of animal food from the fea. But
it ftiould feem, from their pradice of falting filh, that
♦he opennefs of their coaft often interrupts the bufinefs'
of catching them ; as may be naturally fuppofed,, that no
fct of people would ever think of prcfcrving quantities
of food artificially, if they could depend upon a daily,
regular fupply of it, in its frefh ftate. This fort of rea-
foning, however, will not account for their ciiftom of
falting their pork, as well as their fiih, which are prc-
ferved in gourd-fliclls. The fait, of which they ufe a
great quantity for this purpofe, is of a red colour, noc
very courfe. It has its colour, doubtlefs, from a mix-
ture of the jnudj at the bottom of the part where it is '

formedj

440 Captain Cqok's third VoyAge

'formed; for fome of It, that had adhered. into lumps,
was of a futficicnt whitenefs . and purity.

they bake their vegetable food with lieatcd ftones,
as at the Southern Iflands; and from the yaft quantity
which we faw drefled at one tinie, we fufpie<5led that
the whole village, or, at leaft, a cohfiderable number ot
pieople, joined in the ufe of a common oven. The only
artificial difh that, we met with, was a taro pudding;
which, though, a difagteealjle mefs front its faurnets,
was greedily devoured by the natives. .They eair offa
kind of wooden plates, or trenchers i and the, women,
as hr as we could judge from; one inftancje, if reftrained
from feeding at the fame difli with the men, as at Ota-
heite, are, at leaft, permitted to eat in the fame phot
near them.

. Tlicfr amuiements f«pcriie(J prettj^ various ; for, during
our Jliort ftay, feveral were.difcovered. The dances,
at which they ufe.| the feathered cloaks, ^rid caps, were
not feen ; but from the motions which they made with
their hands, on other occafipns, when they fungj we
could form fome judgement that they are, in fome de-
gree at leaft, fimiiar to thofc we met .with, at the South-
ern Iflands, though, not executed fo ikilfully.l Nekher
had theyi anaopgft tjieni, either flutes m. reeds i arid the
only two irvjf''' »l inftruments which we^ (pbferved^ . were
of an exceeding rude kind. One of them does not
produce a melody exceeding that of a child's rattle;
It confifts of what may be called a Conic cap inverted,
but fcarcely hollowed at the bafe above a foot high,
made of a coarCc, fcdge-like plant ; the upper part of
which, and the edges, are Amamented witli beautiful
red feathers ; and to the point, or lower part, isifiiJCed
a gourd-ftiell, larger than the firft., Into this is put
fomething to rattle j which is done by holding the in-
ftrument by the fmali. part, and .ftiakmg,, or rather

moving

Roui^D TriE World.

44^

Moving itj from place to place briikly, either to dif-
ferent fides^ or backward and forward, juft before the
ffice, ftriking the bread with the other hand at the fame
uiii.e. The other mufical inftrument (if either of them
deferve that name) was a hollow veffel of wood, like a
platter, combined with the ufe of two fticks, on which
one of our. gentlemen faw a min performing. He held
one of the fticks^ aboyt twowfeet long, as we do a fiddle
with one hand, and ftruck it with the other, which wa^
fmaller, and refembled a drum-ftick, in a quicker or '
flow.cr meafurej at the fame time beating with his foot
upon the hpjlow. veflelj that lay inverted upon the
ground, and thus producing a tune^ that was by no
means difagreeable* This mufic was accompanied by
the vocal performance of fome women, whofe fong had
a pleafmg and tender effefti

We obferved great tiuml^ers of fmatl polilhed rods, a-
bout four or five feet long, fomewhat thicker than the
rammer of a muiket, with a tuft of long, white dog's
hair fixed on the fmall end. Thefe are^ probably, ufed
in their diverfions.- We faw a perfon take one of them
in his hand, and, holding up, give a fmall ftrokcj till he
brought it into an horizontal pofition, ftriking with the
foot on the fame fide, upori the groutfd, and with his o-
ther hand, beating his breaft at the fame time. They
play at bowls, with pieces of whet-'ftone, of about a
pound weight, fliaped fomewhat iike a fmall C-heefe,
but rounded at the fides ftnd edges, wTiich are .very
nicely poliflied .; ?knd they have other bowls of the lame
fort, made of a heavy, reddifti brown clay, neatly glazed
over with a compofitipp of the fame colour, ^ or of a
c bar fe, dark grey (late. They alfo ufe, m the fime
manner that we throw quoits, ftnall, flat, rounded
pieces of the writing flate, of the diameter of the
bowls, but fcarcely a quarter of an inch , thick, alfo
w^ell poliftied. From thefe circurallanccs, 6fle wbuld be

K k k induG64

44j Captain Cook's third Voyaob

' induced to think, that their games arc rather trials of
flciil than of ftrength.

Had the Sandwich iflands beendifcoviered at an early
period, by the Spaniards, there is little doubt that
they would have taken advantage of fo excellent a fitu-
ation, and made ufe of Atooi, or fome other of the
iflands, as a refrefhing-place to the fhips, that fail an-
nually from Acapulco to Manilla. How happy would
Lord Anfon have been, and what hardfhips would he
have avoided, if he had known that there was a group
of iflands, halfway between America and Tinian, where
all his wants could have been cffefiually fupphed.

BOOK

HI-

C H A P.

Curious marine phcenomena — ArrivaJ at Nootka found
— ^Intercourfe with the natives — Defcription of their
perfons — ^Thcir general difpofitions, and their ca»
gernefs to poflefs iron and other metals*

"... . ■ '

IN purfuing his yoyage northward, one of the mod
curious circumftances which the Captain obferved,
was during a calm on the and of March, 1778, when
fome parts of the fea fecmed covered with a kind of
flimc; and fome Imall fca animals were fwimming about.

The

Round the World.

443

The mod conrpicuous of which, were of the gelati-
nous, or meduia kind, almoft globular ; and another
fort fmaller, that had a white, or (hining appearance,
and were very numerous. Some of thefe laft were ta-
ken up, and put into aglafscup, with fome fait water,
in which they appeared like fmall fcales, or bits of filver
when at reft in a prone fituation. When they began
to fwim about, which they did, with equal eale, upon
their back, (ides, or belly, they emUtcd the brighteft
colours of the moft precious gems, according to theit
pofition with refpeft to the light. Sometimes they ap-
peared quite pellucid, at other times alTumiug various
lints of blue, from a pale fapphirine, to a deep violet
colour, which were frequently mixed with a ruby, or
opaline rednefs ; and glowed with ftrength fufScient to
illuminate the' veflel and water. They proved to be ^
new fpecies of onifcus, and, from their properties^
were, by Mr. Anderfon, called onifcus fulgens; being, .
probably, an animal which has a (liare in producing
fome forts of that lucid appearance, often obferved near
fliips at fea, in the night.

The coaft of New Albion, in North America, was.
'firft defcried on the 7th ; but being much obftruftcd
by adverfe and tempeftuous winds, it was not till the
29th, that the Captain came to anchor in a found, to
which he gave the name of King George's Sound, but
which the natives called Nootka. It is fituated on the
E. corner of Hope Bay, in the lat of 49 deg. 33 min.
N. arid in the long of 233 deg. 12 min. E. Various
reparations of the (hips, and a very friendly inter«-
courfe with the natives, employed his time till the 26th
of April, when he put to fea in the further purfuit of
his voyage. •

When the Captain firft entered this Sound, three
f PQes came off to the (hip. Ift one of thefe were two

men.

444 Captain Cook's third Voyaob

men, in another fix, and in the third ten. Having
come pretty near, a perfon in one of the two laft fto,od
up, and made a Jong harangue, inviting them to land,
as was gucffed, by his geftures, ^t the fame time, he
kept ftrewing handfuls of feathers towards them ;! and
fome of his companions threw handfuls of a red duft
in the fame manner. The pcrfqn who played the ora-
tor, wore the fkin of fome animal, and held^ in calch
hand, fomething which rattled a§ he kept flia^iag ii.
After the tumultous noife had ceafed> they lay at .^lit-
tle diftancc from the Ihip, and converfcd >yitli ^acli
other in a very eafy manner ; nor did they feem to
(hew the lead furprize or raiftruft. Soon after, the car
noes began to come off in great numbers, and at one
time, there was 32 of them, carrying from 3 to 8 per-
fons each, both men and women. But tho* thefe vifit
ters behaved yery peaceably, they could not be prevailed^
upon to come on board. They fhew^rd '- rcat readinefs.
however, to part with any thing thc) lad, and too^
whatever was offered them in exchange ; but were
more defirpus of iron, than of any other ar,uclc of
commerce. The moft extraordinary of all articles
they brought for fa|e, were human ikuUsj, and hailds,
not yet quite llripped of theflclji, which they made- us
plainly underftand they had eaten. We had but too
much reafon to fufpe6>, from this circumftaiice, that
the horrid practice of feeding on th'eij: enemies is as^
prevalent here, as we had. found it- to be at New Zea-
land, &c.

• . . . ■ ^-•''
The perfons of the natives are^,. in g^ncr^,, under, the,
common ftature, but not flendcr in proportion,^ being
commonly pretty full or plump. The vifag|e of moft 0^
them is round and full j the forehead rather Tow ^ the
eyes black, and rather languilhing than fparkiing.
They have either no be?.rds at all, which waS: molt
foforoouly the cafe, or a fmall thin one upon tlie point

Round the World.'

445

of the chin» wjiich does not arife from any natural dc-.
jc^ of; air on, that, part, bqt from plucking, it out more
or lei^ ; ^or (imc or them, and particularly the old nic;n,
have not only. confiderable beards a|l over the cbin,,
but wliiUccrSv , or muf^achios, but on the upper lip*
;ind running thence toward the lower jaw obliqudy
downward. ' ^

Tfieir,' colour we. could not pofciy^!/ dctermme, ajs
tUeif bodies, were incru(le4 with pair^t and dirt; though
ia particular c^es, whjeutthefc we^e well rubbed, ou^
ihe whiienefs of thq ilvin appear;rd to equal that of
Europeans. Their children, whbfp /kins had never,
been (laiiied with paint, alfo equalled ours in white-

I I

The wcm^n are^ nearly, of the fame fiip, colour, and
^rtt^ with the men ; fron:» whom ic is not eafy lodi-
ftingulft^ them,, as they ppflefs no: natural deVvcaciesi
fuffieient to render their perfons agreeable ^ and hardly
any onc'wias feen, even thofe who were in the prime
of life,, who h?id the Uaft. pretjenfions to be called*
handfome, ', , , -

The chief employment of the natives feems to be
that of fiihing^ and killing land or fea animals, for the
fuftenance of their, families \ for we, faw few of them
doings any. thing in their houfes ; whereas the women,
are occupied in manufaduring their flaxen or woollen
garments^ and in preparing the 6(li called fatdine, foc
drying;;.\yhich they carry upfcon^ the beach in twig^
balkets,. aftet the men have bro^iglu them in their ca-^
noes. The^ women are alfo fent in the fmall canoes to
gather mufcles, and other Ihell-filh j and perhaps on
tome other occafions.

ASfe.^ercrnuch better enabled 'to form fomc judg.

ment

V J I

446 Captain Cook's third Voyaob

nient of their difpofition, and, in feme meflfure, even
of their method of living, from the freq^ent viflts fo
many of them paid us at our flii^s, in their canoes ;
in which, it Ihould feem, they fpend a great deal of
time, at leaft iti the fummer feafon. For we obferved
that they not only eat and fleep frequently in them, but
ilrip o£f their clothes, and lay themielves along to bade
in the fun, in the fame manner as we had feen pradlifed
at their village. Their canoes of the larger fort, are,
indeed, fufficiently fpacious for that purpofe, and per*
fedlly dry ; fo that, under (belter of a flcin, they are,
^except in rainy weather, much more comfortable habi-
faiions than their houfes.

With refpedl to food, thtir greateft reliance fecms to
be upon the fea, as affordjiig^ fiOi, mufcles, and fmaller
lhell-fi(h, and fea-animals. Of the fird, the principal
are herrings, far dines, two fpedes of bream, and fmall
cod. But ifieiierrings and fardine;^ ure npt only eaten
frelh, in their fcalon, but like wife ferve as (lores, which
after being dried and fmqked, are prefervcd by being
fewed up in mats, (bas to form large bales, thrtee or
four feet fquare. The herrings alfo fupply them with
another grand refource, which is a va(]t (quantity of roe,
very curioufly prepared; |t is ftrewed upon, or as it
were, incruftated about, (mall branches of the Canadian
pine. They alfo prepare it upon a long narrow fca-
grafs, which grows plentifully upon the rocks, under
water.' It may be confidcrcd as the vinier bread of
• thefe people^ and has no difagreeable (afte. They alfo
roa(t the large kind of mufcle, then (lick them upon
long wooden ikeuers, and taking them off oc^afiorally
wanted, eat them without any other pre|pa,ration^
though they often dip them in oil, as a fauce.

Of the fea-animals, the mod common in ufe amongfl
them as food, isthe'porpoife, the fat or rind of which,

13 '

Hf -

RouKD THB World,

447

is well as the flefh, they cut in lar^e pieces, aijd hav-
ing dried them, as they do the herring., eat them with-
out any farther preparation. They alfo prepare a fort
of broth from tnis animal, in its frelh Itatc, in a lin-
gular manner, puttmg pieces of it in a Iquare wooden
veffel or bucket, with water, and then throwing heat-
ed ftones into it. This operation they repeat tUI thev
think the contents are fufEciently flewed or feethed.
They put in the frelh, and take out the other Hones,
with a cleft Hick, which ferves as tongs ; the velTel
being always placed near the lire, for that purpofe.
This is a pretty coinjnon dilh among them, and from its
appearance, feems to be llrong nourilhlng food.

Their manufaflures, and mechanic arts, are far more
ingenious, both in defign and execution, than could
have been expedled from the natural. jdifpolition of the
people, and the little progrefs that civilization has made
amongft them in other refpe£ls. Their flaxen garments
are made of the bark of the pine-tree, beat into a
hempen Hate. It is not Ipun, but, after being proper-
ly prepared, is fpread upon a Hick, which is faftened
acrofs to two others that (land upright. It is difpofed
in fuch a manner, that the manufa<Slurer, who lits on
her hams at, this fimple machine, knots it acrofs with
fmall plaited threads, at the diltance of half jin inch
from each other. Though, by this method, it be not
fo clofe or firm as cloth that is woven, the bunches be-
tween the knots make it fufHcitntly impervfous to tho
air, by filling the interftices -, and it has the additional
advantage of being fofter and more pliable. Their
woollen garments, though probably manufaAured in
the fame manner, have the llronged refemblance to
woven cloth. But the various figures which are very
artificially inferted in them, defliroy the fuppofition of
their being wrought in a loom ;. it being extremely un-
Mkely, that thefc people &ould be fo dexterous as to be

able

■■■

ft i

4ii^ dApTAiN Cook's tiiiiSLB VoYAOt

■ ifble fofinifti fach a Coinpiex work, un^^r^ »t^rncdiateff
by th^ir hands. They are o^ different degrees of fine-
Hcfs ; fome refeftiblirig !our coarfeft rugs or bknl^ets j
and others aknoft fcqual to our iin?(t fort, orq^yen'icjft-
cr^ and certainly wiirmer, ] [: ', '*-'"/'.'

' Their iritplemehts for fiihing and hunting, Vnioh are
both ingcnioufly contrived, and well made, are nets,
hooks and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an inftrument
like an oar. This laft is about ao feet long;,, 4 or 5
inches broad, and about hair an inch thick. Each
edge, f6f about two thirds of its length, is fet with
fliarp bone teeth, about two inches long. Herrings
and fardineSj and fuch other fmall fifti as com^ in
fhoals,' are attacked with this inftrament ; which is
(truck into the Ihoai, and the fifli jare caught either
upon, or bet\t^efn the teeth. Their ^ooks are made of
bone Slid wood, and rather inartificiaUy ; but thehar-
pooh\ with which they (Irike the whales and lefTer.fea
animalsy fhews a great reaclr of contrivance. It is
compofed of a piece of bone, cut into two barbs, ii
which is fixed the oval blade of a large mufclc (hell,
in which is the point of the inftrument. To thio is
faftened about twp or three fathoms of rop^ y and to
throw this harpoon, ' f hey ufeafhif^ of about 12 or 15
feet long, to which the rope^i's made fl\fl:, and to one

' <?nd of tvhich the harpoon is fixed, fo as to feparate
from the ftiaft, and leave it floating upicin the water

. as a buoy, when the animal darts away with the har^
poon.

vVe failed from,Nootka Sound on the 2i5tn of April,
and foon loft fight of liand ; but on tlie 2nd of May,
fleering N. W. by N. we difcovered a round elevated
mountain, which was nam«d Mount Edgtcumbe, and
the point of land fhooting out fror. it, Cape fedgecumbe.
The land, except in fome places clofe to the fea, was

M^\^m

RduJiD THE World.

449

ill of a confiderablc hcighc, and hilly* The more ele-
vated hills were covered with fnow ; but the lower
ones were free from it, and covered with a fine
\;roo4.

Hence he coafied along, rioting leveral inlets, iflands,
capes, and mountains, (to which in the order of difco-
very, he gave the names of the Bay of Iflands, Crofs
Cape, Crofs Sound, Cape Fair Weather, Mount Fair
Weather, Bhering*s Bay, the mountain .called by Bher-
ing Mount Elias, Cape Suckling's, Kaye's Ifland, and
('omptrolier's Bay) tUl the 1 2th of May, when he an-
chored bf Fore a fraall cove, a little within a cape, tt>
which he gave the name of Cape Hiuchingbroke.
Near this were fome rocky iflands, to which Mr. Gore
was fcnt in a boar, in hopes of Ihooting fome eatable
J)irds. But he had hardly got to them, before the natives
made their appeariince in two large canoes, on which
he thought proper to return to the ftiips, and they fol-
Knvcd him. They would not venture along-fide, but
kept at a diftance, hollowing aloud, and akernrtely
' lafping and extending their arms ; and in a ftiorttime,
began a kind of long exaftly after the manner of ;hofe
at Nootka. Their heads were all powdered with fea-
thers. One man held out a white garment, which was
interpreted as a fign of friendfliip ; and another flood
up in a canoe, quite naked, for almoft a quarter of an
hour, with his arms ftretched out like a crofs, and mo-
tionlefs. Though the Captain returned all their figns
of ^.icndfhip, and by every dxpreiTive gefture, tried
to encourage them to come along-fide, he could not
prevail. After receiving fome prefents which were
thrown to them, they retired to that part of the (hore
whence they came, making figns they would appear a-
gain the next morning.

The next morning, Gapt. Cook got under fail, in or-

Lll der

Captain Cook's third Voyao«

dcr to look out for feme fnug place, where he might
fearch for a leak, which he had lately fprung. At firft
the clearncfs of the weather tempted him to ftcer to the
N. farther up the largefl inlet ; but bad weather re-
turning, he was obliged to anchor, before he had got
fo far into the bay as he intended.

The wcathelf, bad as it was, did not hinder three of
the natives froiii paying him a vifit. They came off in
two canoes, hvo hien iii one, and one in the other, being
the number each could carry. Each of thefe men had
a: flick, about three feet long, with the large feathers
or wings of birds tied to it. Thefe they frequently
held up, with a view as was guelTedj to exprefs their
pacific Uifpofition«

T!ie treatitient thefe men met With, induced many
more to come, between one and two the next morning
(the 1 41:11) in great and fmall canoes. Some ventured
on board the ihip, but not till fome of the crew had
flepped into their boats. Amongll thofe who came on
board, was a good-looking middle-aged man, who was
afterwards found to be the chief. He was clothed in a
drcfs made of the fea otter's fkin» and had on fuch a
cap as is worn by the natives of Nootka Sound, orna-
mented with iky-blue glafs-bcads about the fize of a
large pea. He feemed to fet a much higher value up-
on thefe, than upon our white glafs beads. Any fort
of beads, however, feemed to be in high eflimation
with thefe people ; and they readily pave whatever
they had in exchange for them, even their fine otter
jQwins.

Thefe people were alfo dclirous of iron, but they
wanted pieces of eight or ten inches long at lcafl,and of
the breadth of three or four fingers. For they abfo-
lutely reje(5led fmall pieces. Cunfequently they got but

little,

Round the World.

45^

iittle, iron having, by this time, become a fcarce articlej
The Captain could not prevail upon the Chief to truft
himfelf below the upper deck; nor did he and his com-
panions remain long on board. But while he had their
,coipp«iny, it was necelTary to watch them narrowly, as
^hey foon betrayed a thievifti difpofition. At length,
after beijig about three or four hours along-fide the
Refolution, rhcy alllrfther and went to the Difcovery ;
none having been there before, except one man, who
at this time, came from her, and immediately returned
thither in company with the reft. When this was ob-
ferved, it was thought this man had met with fomething
there, which he knew would pleafe his countrymen
better than what they had met with on board the Re-
iblution.

As foofl as they were 3one, I fent a boat to found the
head of the bay : for as the wind was moderate, I had
thoughts of laying the fliip afliore, if a convenient
place could be found \yhere I might begin our opera-,
tlon to ftop the leak. It was not long before all the
natives left the Difcovery, and inftead of returning tq
us, made their way toward our boat employed as above.
The officers in her feeing this, returned to the (hip^
iand was followed by all the canoes. 'Jlie boat's crew
had no fooner got on board, leaving ii^ her two of
their number, by way of a guard, than forajs ojE the
natives ftepped into her. Some prefented their fpears^
before the two men ; others cad loofe the rope which,
faftened her to the lliip, and the reft attempted to tow;
her away. But the inftant they faw us preparing to
oppofe them, they let her go, ftepped out of her into
their canoes, and made figns for us to lay down our
arms, having the appearance of being as perfedly un-
concerned as if they had done nothing amifs. This,
tho' rather a moft daring attempt, was hardly equal to
what they had meditated ou board the Difcovery. The

man

452 Captaiij Cpoi^'s THiR;p Voyage

man who came and carried all his countrymen from the
Refolutlon to the other (hip, had firft been on bpard of
her, where, after looking down all the hatchways,
and feeing nobody but the officer of the watch, and
ope or two more, he no doubt thought they might
plunder her with cafe, efpecially as fhe lay at fome
difiance from us. It was unqueftionably with thi?
view, that they all repaired to her. Several of them,
without any ceremony, went on boarcj, drew their
knives, made figns for the officer and people pn deck
to keep off, ahj began to look about them for plunder.
The firft thing they met with was the rudder of the
boat, which they threw overboard to tjiofe of the par-
ty who had remained in the canoes. Before they had
time to find anpther objcA that pleafed their fancy, the
crew were armed, and began to come on deck with
cutlaffes. On feeing this, the whole company of plun-
derers fneaked offinto their canoes, with as much deli <
deration and indifference ^s they had given up the boat,
^nd they were obferved defcribing to thofe who had
not been on board, how much longer the knivco
of the lhip*s crew were than their own. It was at this
time, that my boat was on the founding duty, which
they mud have fecn ; for they proceeded dircdlly
for her, after their difappointmcnt at the Difco-
very.

This day in heaving the anchor out of the boat, one
of the feamen, cither through ignorance or careleflpcfs,
was carried oyerboard by the buoy-rope, and followecl
the anchor to the bottom. It is remarkable, that in this
critical fituation, be had prefence of mind to difengage
jiimfelf, and come up to the furface of the water,
where he was taken up, with one of his legs fra^urea
in a dangerous manner.

1'he i^th i^pd i6th was employed in (topping the

lc8K<

Round the World.

45.5

leak. This was done in a bay, which Capt. Cook very
properly called Snug Corner Bay.

On the 17 th the Captain weighed, and fteered to the
^orth- wed ward ; thinking, if therqfliould be anypai- *
(age to the N. through this inlet, that it muft be in that
dire^ibn. Soon after he was under fail, the natives irt
both great and fnjall canoes, paid another vifit, which
gave an additional opportunity of forming a more per-
fedl idea of their perfona, drefs, and other particulars.
Thefe viliters feeiiied to have no other bufinefs, but to
gratify thipir curiofity, for they entered into no fort of
tjrafEc.

^rotx^ vaifious circumftances, Capt. Cook foand it
tiighly improbable, that there (hould be a paflUge to
the >f. He proceeded, therefore, on the i8th, to the
South- weft ward, down the inlet, another paflage to
which he difcovered, to the S. W. of that by which he
came in, which enabled him to (horten his way out to
fea. It is feparated from the other by an ifl^nd, ex-
tending 18 leagues in the diredion of N. E. and S, W.
to which he gave the name of Montagu Ifland. In this
S. W. channel are feveral iflands. Thofe that lie in tha
entrance, next the open fea, are high and rocky. Hut
thofe within are low ones, and being entirely free fronr«
(now, and covered with wood and verdure, on this
Recount they were galled Green Iflands. in a channel
j>et jvcen thefe iOands and Montagu Ifland, he fteered on
the 19th, and on the 20th, was azain in the opsn fea,
the cos^ft trending W. by S. as tar as the eye could
feach.

To *'•* inlet, which Capt. Cook had juft lefc, ht
gave the name of Prince WiUiam's Sound, and from
what he faw of it, he fuppofed that it occupied at
tfaft a ^cgree and a half of latitude, and two of long.

exclufive

454 Captain Copic's third Ycyage

cxclufive of the arms or branches, the extent of which
js not known.

The natives were in general Tipt above the common
height, though maiiy of them were jinder it. They
were fqiiare or ftrong chefled ; and the moft difpropor-
tioned part of their body feem?d to be their heads,
iVhich v^ere very large, with thick (hort pecks, and
lairge, broad, or fpreaiding faces V which, upon the
whole, were flat. Their eyes, though not fmall, fcarce
bore a proportion to the fize of their faces % and their
nofes had full round points, hooked, or turned up at
the tip. Their teeth were broad, white, equal in fize,
and evenly fet. Their blackt thick, ilraight^ and
ftrong ; and t(ieir beards in general thin, or wanting ^
but the hairs about the lips of thofe who have them,
were ftilTor brlftly, and frequently of a brown colour.
But feveral of the elderly men had even, large and
thick, but ftraight beards.

Though, in general, they agree in the niake of their
perfons, and iargenefs of their heads, there is a consi-
derable variety in their features ; but very few can be
faid to be of the handfomer fort, tho* their counte-
nance indicates a na.ural (hare of vivacity, good nar
ture, and franknefs. Some of the women have agree-
able faces, and many are eafily diftinguilhable fiom the
men by their features, which are more delicate ; but
this (hould be underftood chiefly of the younger fort, or
iniddle aged. The complexion of the women, and of
the children, is white ; but without any mixture of red.
And fome of the men, who were feen naked, had ra-
ther a brownifli or iwartliy caft, which could fcarcely
be the effedt of any flain ; for they do not paint their
bodies.

' Their common drefs (for men, women, and chil-
dren,

Round the World.

dren, arc clothed alike) is a kind of dofe frock, or
rather robe, reaching generally to the ankles, though
fometimes only to the knees. ,And the upper part is a
holejuft fufficient to admit the head, with fleeves that
reach to the vvrift. Thefe frocks are made of the (kins
of different animals ; the moft common of which are
thofe of the fea-otter, grey fox, racoon, and pine-mar-
tin, with many of feal (k\ns ; and, in general, they arc
worn with the hairy iides outward. Some alfo have
thefe frocks made ot the (kins of fowls, with only the
down remaining on them, which they glue on other
fubftances. When it rains, they put over this another
frock, ingenioufly made from the inteftines of whales,
or fome other large animal, prepared fo Ikilfully, as al-
moft to refcmble our gold-beaters leaf. It is made to
draw tight round the neck -, its fleeves reach as low as
the wrift, round which they are tied with a ftring; and
its (kirts, when they are in the canoes, are drawn over
the rim of the hole in which they fit, fo that no water
can enter. At the fame time, it keeps the men entirely
dry upward. For no water can penetrate thro' it, any
more than thro* a bladder.

The men commonly wear the hair cropt round the
neck and forehead, but the women allow it to grow
long , and moft of them tie a fmall lock of it on the
crown, or a few club it behind, after our manner.
Both fexes have the ears perforated with feveral holes,
about the outer and lower part of the edge, in which
they hang Utile bunches of beads. The feptum of the
nofc is alfo perforated, through which they frequently
ihruft the quill feathers of Imall birds, or little sending
ornaments, ftrung on a ftiff ftring, 3 or 4 inches long,
which give them a truly grotcfque appearance. But
the moft uncommon and unfightly ornament fa(hion,
adopted by fome of both fexes, is their having their
under lip flit; or cut, quite through, in the diredion

4S^ Captain CJook''^ TiiitLb VoVaok

VM '

:l '

pf the mouth, a little before t^e ft^eUing part, this
incifion, \*'hich is made even in the fucking children^
18 often above ttvo inches long ; and either by iti na*
tural- retriclton, when the wound is frelh, or by the
fcpctnion of lome artificial management, affiimes the
true ftiape of lips, and becbmes To large as to admit
the tongue through. This happpincd to be the cafe
when the firft perfon having this incifiOBi wa6 feen by
one of the feamcn, who caBtd out that the man had
two mouths i and indeed, it does not look much un-
like it. In this artificial mouth they ftick a flat, nar-
row ornament, made chiefly out of a folid fhell or bone,
cut in little narrow pitcrs, like fmall tceth^ almoft
down to the bafc or thickeft pait, which hca a fmall
projecting bit at each end that fupports it when put
into the divided Up, the cut part then appearing out-
ward. Others have the lower lip only perforated into
feparate holes ; and then the ornament confifls of ma-
ny diftin^t Ihelly ftuds, whofe points are pufhed thro^
thefe holes, and the heads appear withm the lip, as a-
noiher row of teeth under their owp.

Thefe are their native ornaments, fiut mafty beads
cf European manufacture were found among them,
chiefly of a pale blue colour, which they hang in their
cars, about their caps, or join to their lip-ornaments,
^^hich have a fmall hole drilled in each point to which
ihey are faftened, and others to them, till they hang
fometimes as low as the point of the chin. But, in this
laft cafe, they cannot' re move them roeafily ; for, a^ to
their own lip-ornaments, they can take them out with
their tongue, or fuck within, at pleafurc. They alfo
wear bracelets, of the fhelly beads, or otliers of a cy-
lindrical fhape, made of a fubftance like amber, with
fuch alfo are ufed in their cars and nofeiS. And fo fond
are they, in general, of ornaments, that they ftick
any thing in their perforated lip ; one man appearing

with

ttotlMD THI WoliLO.

with two of our iron nails proje^ling from it like pronj^s ;
and another endeavouring to put a large brafs button
into it.

The men frcqu^iitly paint their facfes of a bright red,
and of a black colour, and fometimes of a blue, or lead-
en colour; but not in any regular figure; and the wo*^
men, in fome meafure^ endeavoured to imitate them,
by puncturing or ftaining the chin with black, that
comes to a point in each check. Their bodies arc not
painted, which may be owing to the fcarcity of proper
materials ; for all which they brought to fell in bladders,
were in very fmall quantitieSi

The weapons, and inftruments for fi(hing aiid hunt-
ing, with their canoes, are the very fame that are made
uftj of by the Efquimaux and Qrecnlandcrsi For de- '
feufivc armour they have a kind oi jacket^ or coat of
mail, made of thin lathes, bound together with fmews,
wiJch makes it quite ilcxiblci though fo clofe as not to
admit of an arrow or dart. It only covers the trunk of
the body, and may not be improperly compared to a
woman's ftays*

As tidhc of thefe people lived in the bay where Clap-
taiii Cook anchored, or landed, he faw none of their ha-
bitations j and had not time to look after them. Of
their domeftic utenfils, they brought in their boats fomc
round and oval ihaliow dimes of wood ; and others of a
cylindrical flaape much deeper. The fides were made
of one piece, bent round, like our chip-boxes, though
thick, neatly fattened with thongs, and the bottoms fix-
ed in with- fmall wooden pegs. Others were fmaller,
and of a more elegant ftiape, fomewhat refembling a
large oval butter-boat, without a handle, but more flial-
low, inade from a piece of wood, or horny fubltance^
Thefe laft were fometimes neatly carved. They had

Numb* 3o M m m many

45^ Captain Cook's third Voyaoi

many little fquarc bags, made of the fame gut with
their outer frocks, neatly ornamented with very minute
red feathers interwoven with it, in which were contain-
ed fome very fine finews, and bundles of fmall cord,
made from them, moft ingenioufly plaited. They alfo
brought many chequered balkcts, fo clofcly wrought as
to hold water; fome wooden models of their canoes; a
good many little images, four or five inches long, either
of wood, or ftufFed; which were covered with a bit of
fur, and ornamented with fmall quill feathers, in imitati-
on of their flielly beads, with hair fixed on their heads.
Whether thefc might be mere toys for children, or
held in veneration, as reprefenting their defeafed friends,
and applied to fome fuperftitious purpofe, could not be
determined. But they have many inftruments made of
two or three hoops, or concentric pieces of wood, with
a crofs-bar fixed in the middle, to hold them by. To
thcfe are fixed a great number of dried barnacle-lhells,
with threads, which fcrve as a rattle, and make a loud
noife, when they Ihakc them. This contrivance feems
to be a fubftitute for the rattling-bird at Nootka ; and
perhaps both of them are employed on the fame occa-
fion.

Whh what tools they make their wooden utenfils>
frames of boats, and other things, is uncertain ; as the
only one fecn amongft them was a kind of adze, made
almoft after the manner of thofe of Otaheite, and t^e
other iflands of the South Seas. They . have a great
many iron knives ; fome of which arc ftraight; others a
little curved ; and fome very fmall ones, fixed in pretty
long handles, with the blades bent upward, like fome
of our fiioemakers inftruments. But they have ilill
knives of another fort, which are fometimes near two
feet long, fliaped almoft like a dagger, with a ridge in
the middle. Thefe they wear in meaths of ikins, hung
by a thong round the neck, under their robcj and they

are

.Round the World.

459

arc, probably, only ufcd as weapons ; the other knives
being apparently applied to other purpofes. Every
thing they have, however, is as well and ingeni-
oufly made, as if they were furniflied with the mod
icopiplete tool-cheft; and their fcwing, plaiting of fmews,
and fmall work on their little bags, may be put in com-
petition with any the moft delicate manufaftures found
in any part of tjie known world. In fliort, confidcring
the rude uncivilifed ftate in which thcfe people are, their
Northern fituation, amidd a country perpetually co-
vered with fnow, and the wretched materials they have
to work with, it appears, that their invention and dex-
terity, in all manual works, is at lead equal to that of
any other nation.

The food which they were feen to eat, was dried fifti
and the flelh of fome animals, either broiled or roaded.
Some of the latter that was bought, fcemed to be bear's
flefti, but with a fiftiy tade. They alfo eat the longer
fort of fern-root, mentioned at Nootka, either baked*
or dreffed in fome other way : and fome were feen to eat
freely of a fubitance which was fuppofed to be the in-
ner p^rt of the pine bark. Their drink is mod proba-
bly water ; for in their boats they brought fnow in the
wooden vcflels, which they ^wallowed by mouthfuls.
Perhaps it couid be carried w. h lefs trouble, in thefe
open ve0els, than water itfclf. Tlieir method of eaiinpf
feems decent atid cleanly; for they always took cure to
feperatc any ^irt that might adhere to their vidluals.
And though they fometimes did eat the raw fat of fome
fea animal, they cut it carefully into mouthfuls, with
their fmall knivcs."^ The fame might be faid of their
perfons, which, to appearance, were always clean and
decent, without greafe or dirt; and the wooden veflels,
in which their viftuals were, probably put, were kept in
excellent order; ac \vt 11 as "their boats, which were
^eat and free from lumb^^r,
• " Theii

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(7l*)l73-450;f

■^^"

460 CAPTAIlf COOJ^'S THIRP VOYAQJI

Their language feems difEct^t to be uti^erftopd at
firft; not from any indiftiu^hicfs or confuiion in their
words and founds, but from the various figniiication^
^eyhave.

Beiides thofe animals, which were feen at Noptka,
there are lomc in this place which are not found there;
fijph as, the whi^e bear; ot whofe ikin$ the natives
lirpught feveral pieces, and fome entire fkitis of cubs]}
frpm which their fi^c could nqt be df^terminfi. There
was alfo the wolverine^ or quickhatch, which had very
bright colours; a larger fort pf ermine than the com-
mon one, which is the fame as at I^ootka, Y^rled with
abrpTitrn colour, and with fcarcely any black on its tail.
*rhe natives alfo brought the (kir^ pf the head pf fome
very larjgc animal j but itfopldnot poffitiyely betlctcrmi^
^d what it was; though from the fblour and ikajgjhcfs
of the hair^ and its unlikenelfs tp any other land animal,
it might probably be that of the large male priine feal,
prfeabear. Bytoneof the mod beautiful £kins, and
which feeins peculiar to this place, is that of-afmali a-
nimal about ten inche? long, of a tirown or rufty colour
on the back, with a great number of obfcurc whitilli
fpecks; and the fide^ of a bluci0i afh col our, alfo with
a few of thefe fpecks. The tail is not above a thir4 of
the length of its body, and is covered with hair of a whi^
tifli colour at the edges. It is no doubt the fame with
thofe called (potted Held mice, by Mr. Stsehlin, in his
ihore account of the New Northern /Vrchipelago.' But
whether they be rcallv of the moufe kind, or a fquirrel*
could not be told, n>r want of perfe^ ikins^ 'though
Mr. Anderfon'w^s inclined ^o think that it is the fame
animal defcribed under the namb of the Cafoh njiarinot,
Vy Mr. Pennant. The number of ikins found here,
points out the great plenty of thefe feveral aiiimals juft
mentioned ; but it is remarkable, neither the fkiiis of
the moufe nor of the common deer were to be fccn.

U»v '.■■■* .1 ...... , ...

Round the -WoaLB.

*6f

Of vh€ blrdg faemioncd at Nootka, were found bcrtt
oalj the wlute-beadc^ eagle; tbejliag; the alqron, or
great king^fifh^r, whicli had vtiy fine bright colours )
and the huming-bird, which came frequently about tl;^
ftiip, while at anchor } though it can fcarcciy live her$:
ia the winter, which miift be very icvere. The water
fowl were gcefe $ a fmall fort of duck, ahnoft like that
mentioned ^ Kerguelen's Land ^ another fort which no
one knew ; and fome <^ the black feapyes, witli red
bills* which were ibuftd at Van 0i;n)en'$ Land and
New ZcJ^land* Some of the people who went on (bore,
killed a goofe, a fnipe, and feme plover. But though^
upon the whole, the water fowl were prettv numerous,
efpccially the ducks and gcefe, which frequent the.
fliorc, they were fo Qxy, that it was fcarcely pofliblc to
get within fhot ; fp that they obtained a very fmall fu|)-
ply of thjmi as a refrdbment.

Their metals we*e copper and iron 5 botb whicli,
particularly the latter, were in fuch plenty, as to con-
(titute the points of mofl of the arrows and lances.
The ore^, with which they painted themfclves, were a
rcn, brittle, nn£luous ochre, or iron-ore, not much un*.
like cinnabar in colour ; a bright blue pigment ; and
black lead. Each of thefe feems tQ bp very fcarce, as
^hey brought very fmall quantities of the firft and laft,
and feemcd to, keep them with great care.

Few vegetables of any kind were feen ; and the tree s
lykich chiefly grew here, were the Canadian and fpruce
pine, ajid fome of them tolerably large.

Xlie beads and iron found amonft thefe people, left
no doubt, that they mufl have received them from
iome civilized nation. It was pretty certain, from cir-
cumftances already mentioned, that Captain Cook's
people w«re the firl) Europeans with whom tbey had

pver

46a Capiaik Cook's third Voyage

ever communicated direAly; and it remains only to be
decided, from what quarter they had got our manufac-
tures, by intermediate conveyance. And -there cannot
be the lead doubt of their having received thefe article^,
through the intervention of the more inland tribes,
'from Hudfon's Bay, or the fettiers on the Canadian
lakes; unlefs it can be fuppofed (which however is
lefs likely) that the Ruffian trader^, from Kamfchatka,
have already c^ctended their traffic thus far; or at !ea(l
that the natives of their moft Eafterly Fax Iflands com-
municate along the coad, with thofe of Prince William's
oound.

As to the copper, thefe people feem to procure it
themfelvcs, or at moft it pafles through very few hands
to them ; for they ufed to exprefs it being in a fufficiT
cnt quantity amongft them, when they offered any to
barter, by pointing to their weapons ; as if to fay, that
having fo much of this metal of their own,, they want?
cd no more.

* It is, however, remarkable,' fays Captain Cook,
* if the inhabitants of this Sound be fupplied with Eu-
ropean articles, by way of the intermediate traffic to
tlieEaftcoaft, that they (hould, in return,* never have
given to the more inland Indians any of their fea- otter
Ikins; which would certainly have been feen, fonic
time or other, about Hudfons Bay. But, as far as I
know, that is not the cafe ; and the method of account-
ing for this,' muft be by taking into confideration the
very great diftance ; which, though it might not pre-
vent European goods coming fo tar, as being fo un-
common, might prevei>t the (kins, which arc z. com-
mon article, fiom pafling through more than two or
three diiicrent tjibes, who might ufe themi for their"
own clocvthing ; and fend others, which they efteemed
lefs valuable, as being of their own animals, Eaftward,
till they reach the traders from Europe.*

B O O 15

Round the ^ oHLifi

4^S

BOOK

C H A P.

VI.

Difcovery of Cook's River.-r—RefleAi6ns on this Difco-
very.— Poffcffion taken of the Country and River, in
his Majefty's name. — A beautiful bird defcribed.-^
Conje(5lurcs concerning g Ruffian Letter brought On ,
board by one of the Natives. — ^FiAurefque Appear-
ance of a volcano. — Second vifit from a 'Native-
Providential Efcape. — Arrival at the Ifland of Oona-
laflika, and Intercourfe with the Natives.

Ay TER leaving Prince William's Sound, on the
aoth of May, 1778, Captain Cook fteered S. W. *
as the coaft lay •, and, on the aift, difcovered a lofty
promontory, which he named Cape Elizabeth, and
which, at firft, h^ miftook for the weilern extremity of
America. But he foon faw more land to the weft«vard,
and found that this, with that which he had before fup*
pofed to be the weft cape of America, were the two
boundaries of the entrance into a very large river, up
which he failed above 70 leagues, before he was abfo*
lutely certain it was not a ftreight which led into th^
northern ocean. This river has fince been named
Cook's River, by the exprefs command of Lord Sand-
wich. .

' If the difcovery,* faysCaptain Cook, * of this great
riveri which^promifes to vie with the moft cpnliderable

ones

4^4 CJaptain Cook's third VoYAfti

ones already known to be capable of extenfive inland
liavigation, (hould prove ot ufe 6Uhcf to the prefent^
or to any future age, the time we fpent in it ought to
be the lefs regretted. But totis who had a much great-
er objed in view, the delay thus occafioned was an ef-
fential lofs. TM fcafon was advancing apace. We
knew not how far we might have to pioceed to the
South; and we were now convinced, that the conti-
nent of America extended farther to the Weft than^
from the modern rtiofi reputable charts we had reafon
to exped. This made the exiftcnce of a pafiage into
Bdd{n*s or Hud foil's Bay lefs probable; or^ at leaft,
fhe^ed it to be of greater extent. It wis a ^tisfac^lion
totn^, however, to rcfledl, that, if I had ndt eatamined
this very confiderablc inlet, it would have been affumcd
by rpeculativ€ fabi icators of Geography, a$ a faxS, that
it coittttiunicated with the Tea to the North* or with
Haffifr'sor H«4fon's Bay to thcEaft j aiJd been marked,
perhaps, in future maps of the world, with greater
precifion, and more certain figns of reality, than the
invifible, becaufe imaj^kiary, Straits of deFuca ^d de
Fontcw' ■ -'•

Befiore Captain C«0k quitted this river, hcicnt Lieu-
tenant Kiftg, with two armed boats, with orders to
iand qA a point of land, ©n the S. E. fide bt theriverj
Id dlfplay the flag there ; to take pofleffion of the coun*
try and river in his Majefty's name ; and to bury
in the grounil a bottle Containing fotnt pieces of Engli(h
coin, of the year i77«» and a paper, on which was
hifctib^d ti^tf n«ltAed of the (hips, and date of the difco-
Vei'y. On this aecouiit, this point of land was called
l^O'int l^dflefiionk The natives of the adjoining iflands
and ccaft, who tratHcked much with the crews of the
two (hips, while ihey were exploring the river, (eemed
l& be«r *A}Ch'a^rik)ng refembtai^ce to the inhabitant^ of
Fiince Wittiain*6 Sound, that ^ de^ij^tioki of them is

i^uite

Round thb World.

465

quite utineceflary.— ^To the preceding reflc(5lions on the
difcovery of this river, Captain Cook adds, :hat • there
is not the lead doubt, that a very bencBeial fur trade
might be carried on with the inhabitants of this vaft
coail i but that unlefs a northern paflage lliould be
found pradticable, it Teems rather too remote for Great
Britain to receive any emolument from it.'

Having cleared the mouth of Cook's river, on the
6th of June, the Captain fleered, for feveral days, S.
W. by W. as the coaft lay, bqing continually within
fight of the continent, among innumerable iflands, and
generally in thick foggy weather.

On the 1 8 th, having occafion to fend a boat on board
the Difcovery, one of the people in her fhot a very
beautiful bird of the hawk kind. It is fomewhat leis
than a duck, and of a black colour, except the fore-
part of the head, which is white ; and from above and
behind each eye rifes an elegant yellowifh- white crcft,
revolved backward as a ram*s horn. The bill and feet
are red. Capt. Cook conjeftures it to be the Alca Mo-
nochrda of Steller, mentioned in the Hiftory of Kamt-
fchatka. Several of thefe birds were afterwards feen,
and fom^etimes in large flocks. '

On the 19th, fome natives^ in three or four cailoes,
who had been following the Difcovery for fome time,
at length got under her ftern. One of them then made
many figns, taking off his cap, and bowing, after the
European manner. A roap being handed down, to
this he faflened a fmall thin wooden cafe or box ; and
having delivered this fafe, and fpoken fomething, and
made fome more figns, the canoes dropped aftern* and
left the Difcovery. No one on board had any fufpicion
that the box contained any thing till after the departure
of the canoes, when it was accidentally opened, and a

N n n piece

46$ Captain Cook's thirI) Voyao*

|>fec« of paper was founds folded u{> carefully, upoii
which fomething was written in the Ruffian language,
a& was fuppofed. The date 1778 was perfixed to it;
-And, m the body of the written note^ there wad a re-
ference to the year J 7 76. Not one being learned
enough to decypher the alphabet of the urttcr^ his nu-
merals marked fufiiciently that others had preceded us
in vifitingihis dreary part of the globe, who were Uni-
ted to us by other tics be5deii iliofe of our cortimon na-
.ture ; and the hopes of ibon meeting with fome of the
Iluilian traders, could not but give a fenfible fatisfac-
tion to tbofe who had, for fueh a length of time^ been
eonverfant with the favages of the Pacific Ocean, and
of the continent of ^k)rth America.

Captain Clarke was, at firft, of opinion, that fon>e
feuflians had been (hipwrecked here ; and that thefe
uniortunate perfpns, Seeing the (hip pafs, had taken
this method to inform them of their fituation. Impref-
fed with human(t fcntiments, on fuch an occafion, he
was dcfirous of topping till they might have time to
join the ihips. JBut no fuch idea occured to Captain
Cook, to whom it feenied obvious, that if this had been
the cafe, it w ould have been the firft ftep taken by fuch
fliip wrecked pcrfons, in. order to feeure to thcmfelves,
and to their companion<^» the relief they could not but
be folicitous about, to feud fome of their body off* to the
iliips in the canoes. For this reafon, he rather thought
that the paper contained a note of information, left by
fomeRuflian traders, who had lately been amougft thefe
illands, to be delivered to the next of their countrymen
, w ho mould arrive ; and that the natives, feeing the
iliips pafs, and fuppofing them to be Ruffians, had refol-
vedtO bring off the note, thinking it might induce
them to ftop. Fully convinced of this. Captain Cook
did not ftay to enquire any farther into the matter j but
made fai),.aad flood away to the weftward.

Oil

Round the World,

4^7

Oq the 2 1 ft, at noon, Captain Cook found himfclf
two leagues diftant from Halil:ut Ifland. Rocks and
breakers now forced him fo far from the continent, that
he had but a diftant view of tii'; coaft between Rock
Point and Halibut IQand. Oyer this and the adjoining
iflands he could fee the main land covered with fnow;
but, particularly, fome hills, whofe elevated tops were
feeq, towering above the clouds, to a moft ftupendous
height. The moft fouth Wcfterly of thefe hills was difv
covered to have ^ volcano, which cotinually threw up
vaft coliirans of black fmoke It ftands not far from the
coaft; ai^d in the latitude of 54 deg. 48 min. and the
longitude of 195 deg. 45 min. It is alfo remarkable
from its figure, which is a complete cone; and the vol-
cano is at the very fummit. He feldom faw this (or
indeed any other of thefe mountains) wholly clear of
clouds. At times, both bafe and fummit would be
clear; when a narrow cloud, fometimes two or three, -
one above another, would emijrace the middle, like a
girdle; which, with the column of fmoke, rifing per-
pendicular to a great height out of its top, and fpread-
ing before the wind into a tail of vaft length, made «
pi?turefque appearance. It may be worth remarking,
thajt the wind, at the height to. which the fmoke qf xh\s,
volcano reached, moved fometiues in a dire^ian contra-
ry to what it did at fea, even yrhen it blew a trclh gale^

In the afternoon, having ihree hours caljn, the peo,
pie caught upward of a hjundred halibuts, fome of which
weighed a hundred pounds* This was a, very feafona-
ble refreihment. In the height of the fifliing, which
was three or four miles from the.ftiore, a fmall canoe,
conduced by one man, came to them from an adjacent
ifland. On approaching the fliip, hq took cff his cap^^
and bowed, as the other had done, whp vifited the Dif-
covery the prececding day. It. was evideat, that the
Ruffians muft have a communication and traffic with.
' thefe

468

Captain Cook's third Voyaob

people; not only from their acquired politenefs, but
from the note before mentioned. But there was now a
frelh proof of it ; for this vifitor wore a piir of green
cloth breeches, and. a jacket of black cloth, or fluff, un-
der the gut, (liirt or frock of his own country. He had
nothing to barter, except a grey fox ikin, and (ome fifli-
ing implements or harpoons; the heads Of the (haft of
which, for the length of a foot, or more, were neatly
made of bone, as a walking-cane, and carved. He had
with him a bladder, full of fomething, which was fup-
pofed to be oil i for he opened it, took a mouthful, and
then fadencd it again.

On the 36th, although it was day-light, the weather
was fo thick and foggy, that they could not fee a hun-
dred yards before them ; but, as the wind was now mo-
derate, the Captain ventured to run. At half part four,
he was alarmed at hearing the found of breakers on his
larboard bow. On heaving the lead, he found twenty-
eight fathoms water; and the next caft, twenty-five.
Jie immediately brought the fliip to, and anchored in
this hft depth; calling to the Difcovery, which was
clofe by, to anchor, alfo, A few hours aftcf, the fog
having cleared away a little, it appeared that he \\2A e-
fcaped imminent danger, He found himfelf three quar-
ters of a mile from the North Eart iide of an iflaud,
which extended from South by Weft half Weft, tq
North by Eaft half Eaft, each extreme about a league
diftant. Two elevated rocks, the one bearing South
by Eaft, and the other Eaft by South, were about halt
a league each from the fliips, and about the fame dif-
tance from each other. There were feveral breakers
^bout them; and yet, Provideqce had, in the dc^rk, con-
duced the Ihips through, between thefe two rocks,
which we fliould not have ventured in a clear day, and
to fuch an anchoring place, that wc could not have cho?
(ep n bett^Vr

Round the World.

469

Tlic ifland, to which they 'were conducted in this
providential manner, lies on the South fideofOona-
lafhka, another ifland, where they afterwards found an
excellent harbour, called by the natives Samganooda.
Here they watered, but found no wood. OonoolaQika
is one of the nmrierous group of iilaods, which extend
for a confiderable diftance towards thie S. W. from a
very projefting cape on the continent of America,
which lies in latitude 54 and half deg. N. and, by Cap-
tain Cook, is named Alafhka. In approaching this
ifland, they faw fome natives towing in two whales,
which, it was fuppofed^ they had iuft killed. A few
of them, now and then, came off to the (hips, and
bartered a few triBing things with the people, but ne-
ver remained above a quarter of an hour at a time.
On the contrary, they rather feemed (hy ; and yet
the crew could judge that they were no ftrangcrs to
veflels, in fome degree like theirs. They behaved with
a degree of politenefs unknown to favage tribes.

While the (hips lay in the harbour of Samganooda,
feveral of the natives came off, each in a canoe -, and
bartered a few Blhing implements for tobacco. One of
them, a young man, overfet his canoe, while along-
fide of one of the boats. Our people caught hold of
him, but the caroe went adrift, and being picked up
by another, wa& carried a(hore. The youth, by this ac-
cident, was obliged to come into the (hip-; and he went
down into the cabin, upon thetirft invitation, without
expreding the leaft relu(ilance, or unea(iners. His drefs
was an upper garment like a (hirt, made of the large
gut of fea animals, probably the whale ; and an under
garment of the fame (hape, made of the (kin of birds,
dre(red with the feathers on, and neatly fewed together;
the feathered fide being worn next his (kin. It was
mended, or patched, with pieces of (ilk-duff; and his
^^P was ornamented with two or three Torts of glafs
' beads.

4»P

Captain Cook's third Voyao^

beads. His own clothes being wet, Captain Gooit gave
him others, in which he drefied hirrfelf, with as much
eafe as the Captain could have done. From his behar
viour, and that of fomc others, he was convinced that
thefe people were no ftrangers to Europeans, and to
fomc of their cuftoms. But there was lomeihing in the
(hips, that greatly excited their curiofity ; for luch a?
could not come off in canoes^ affembled on the neighr
boiiring hills to look a^hem.

Soon after they anchored, a native brought on board
fuch another note as had been given to Captain Clerke.
He prefented it to Captain Cook ; but it was written in
the Ruffian language, which, as already obferved, none
of them could read. ' As it could be of no; uCe to Cap-o
tain Cook, and might be of confequence to others, he
returned it to the bearer, and difmifled hini with a few
prefents ; for which he expreded his thanks, by leaking
leveral low bows as he retired.

In walking, next day, along the (hore,, Capt. Cook
met with a group oi natives of both fexes, ieated on
thegrafs, atarepaft, confiftingof raw fi(h, which they
feemed to eat with as much reliili as we (hould a turbot,
ferved up with the richc^ft fauce. Thick fogs, end a
contrary wind, detained him till the zd of July ; which
aiibrded an opportunity of acquiring fome knowledge
of the country, and of its inhabitants.

Capt. Cook left Oonalaftika on the ad of July, 177S,
and proceeded Northward. On the 3d of Auguft, he
loft Mr. AndeiTon, furgeon, who had been lingering
under a confumption upwards of a year. To perpe-
tuate the memory of this valuable man, to whom! he
had been indebted for many judicious obfervations in
natural hiftory, an iflahd difcovercd foon after his de-
ceafe, was called Anderfon's Ifland. On the 9th Capt.

Cook

ftoUND THE Woklilr

4»t

Cook came in fight of the mod wellerly point of all
America hitherto known, tr^ which he gave the name
of Cape Prince of Wales. This Cape is fituated in
lat. 65 deg. 46 min. and in the long, of 191 dcg. 45
min. Hence we flood over to a point of land, which
forms the Eadern extremity of the continent of Afia,
diilant from Cape Prince of Wales about 13 leagues.
This, as it appeared in the fequel, is the country of
the Tfchutfki, explored by Beering in 1728. Capt.
Cook anchored on the S. W. fide of this Cape, in a
bay, to which, it being the i oth of Aug. he gave the
name of St. Lawrence.

As we were {landing into this bay, we perceived ou
the North (hore, a village, and fome people, whom the
fight of the fliips feemed to have thrown into confu-
fion or fear. We could plainly fee perfons running up
the country with burdens upon their backs. At theic
habitations we propofed to land, and, accordingly,
went with three armed boats, accompanied by fome of
the officers. About 30 or 40 men, each armed with a
{pontoon, a bow, and arrows, flood drawn up qn a
rifmg grolind clofe by the village. As we drew near,
three of them came down towards the {hip, and were
fo polite as to take oft their caps, and to make us low
bows. We returned the civility, but this did not in-
fpire them with fufficient confidence to wait for our
landing \ for the moment we put the boats afhore,
they retired. The Captain followed them afliore with-
out arms; and by figns and geilures prevailed on
them to flop, and to receive fome trifling prefents. In
return fgr thefe they gave us two fox-ikins, and a cou«
pie of fea-horfe teeth.

They feemed very fearful and cautious ; expreffing
their defire, by figns, that no more of our people fhould
be permitted to come up. On my laying my hand on

the

4^i Captain Cook*s third Vovagb

the (boulder of one of them, he darted back feveral
paces. In proportion as I advanced^ they returned
backwards •, always in the attitude of being ready to
ma^e ufe of their fpears ; while thofe on the rifing
ground flood ready to fupport them with their arrows.
Infenfibly, myfelf, and two or three of my, companions,
got in amongft them. A few beads diftrit>uted to thofe
about us, foon created a kind of confidence ; fo that
they were not alarmed when a few moie of our people
joined us \ and«,by degrees, a ibrtoT traffic commenc-
ed. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other
articles, they gave us fom2 of their cloathing, and a few
arrows. But nothing that we had to offer could induce
them to part with a (pear or a bow. Thefe they held
in conftapt readinefs, never once quitting them, except
at one time, \a hen four or five perfons laid theirs down,
while they gave us a fong and a dance. And even
then, they placed them in fuch a manner, that they
could lay hold of them in an inftant; and, for their
fecurity, they defired us to fit down.

The arrows were pointed with cither bone or ftone,
but very few of them had barbs ; and fome had a
round plump point. What ufe they may be applied
to, we could not fay, unlefs to kill fmall animals,
without damaging the fkin. The bows were fuch as
we had fcen on the American coaft. The fpears or
fpontoons, were of iron or ftccl, and European or
Afiatic workmanftiip; in which no little pains had been
taken to ornament them with carving, and inlayings
of brafs, and of a white metal. Thofe who (food
ready with bows and arrows in their hands, had the
fpear flung over their right (houider by a leathern
ifrap. A leathern quiver, flung over their left
ihoulder, contained arrows ; and fome of thefe qui-
vers were extremely beautiful, being made of red lea-
... thcr,

RrOUND THE IVoRLD.

473

thef, on which Was very neat embroidery, and dthor
ornaments.

Several other things, and in particular their cloth-
ing, ftiewed that they were poffeffed of a degree of
ingenuity, far furpaffing what one could expeA to find
amongfl fo Northern a people. A.11 the Americans we
had feen fince our arrival on that coaft, were rather
low of ftature, with round chubby faces, and high
cheek bones. The people we now were amongft, for
from refembling them, had long vifages, and were
ftout and well made. In (hort, they appeared to be
quite a different nation. We faw neither women, nor
children of either fex, nor any aged, except one man,
who was bald-headed, and he was the only one who
carried ho arms. The others feemed to be picked men,
and rather under than above the middle age. The old
jman had a black mark acrofs his face, which I did not
fee in any others. All of them had their cars bored ;
and fome had glafs beads hanging to them. Thefe
were the only fixed ornaments we faw about them, for
they wear none to the lips. This is another thing
in which they differ frotn the Americans wc had lately
Icen. ^

Their clothing confiftcd of a cap, a frock, a pair of
breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all
made of leather, or of the (kins of deer, dogs, feals,
&c. and extremely well dreffed ; fome with the hair or
furs on ; but others without it. The caps were made
to fit tht head very dofe, and befides thefe caps which
moft of the'm wore, /we got from them fome hoods,
made of fkius of dogs, that were large enough to co«
ver both head and ihould(^s. Their hair feemed to be
black, but their heads were either ihaved, or the hair
cue clofe off; and none of them wore any beard* Of

Goo ihc^

474 Captain Cook's third Vovaoe

the few artides which they got from us, knives and to-
bacco were what they valued moft. .

We found the village compofed both of . their fum-
mer and their winter habitations. The latter arc ex-
aftly like a vault, the floor of. which is funk below the
furface of the earth. One of them, which we exam-
ined, was of an oval form, about 20 feet long, and 12
or more high. The framing was compofed of wood,
and the ribs of whales, difpofcdin a judicious manner,
and bound together with Imaller materials of the fame
fort. Over this framing is laid a covering of ftrong
coarfe grafs ; and again is covered with earth j fo that
on the outfide, the houfe looks like a little hillock,
fupportcd by a wall of ftone, three or four feet high,
which is built. round the two fides, and one end. At
theother end, the earth is raifed floping, to walk up to
the cmrance, which is by a hole in the top Of the roof
oveir that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a
kind of cellar, in whfchi faw nothing but water. And
at the end of each houfe was a vaulted room, which we
took to be a flore-room,.

After a ftay of between two and three hours with
thefe people, Capt. Cook returned to his (hips, and
weighing anchor, proceeded Northward, keeping the
coau of America as near as poifible on board. On
tho 17th, we perceived a brightnefs in the Northern
hofizon, like that reflrAed from ice, commonly called
the blink. It was little noticed, from . a fuppofition
that it was improbable they ftiould meet with ice fo
footi. And yet the fliarpnefs of the air, and gloomi-
nefs of the weather, for two or three days part, feem-
cd to indicate a fudden change^ About half an hour
aft6r, the fight of a large flcld of ice left them in no
doubt about the caufe of the brightnefs of the hori-
zon. 'About half pafl two we tacked clofe to the edge
cu^ ■ ■ of

Round thb World.

475

of the ice, in 22 fathoms water, being then in the lat.
of 70 deg. 41 min. not being able to ftand on any far-
ther, for the ice was quite impenetrable, and extend-
ed from W. by S. to E. by N. as far as the eye coiild
reach. Here were abundance of fea-horfes, fome on
the water, but more upon the ice.

The next day at noon, we were clofe to the edge of
the ice, which was as compact as a wall, and feemed
to be 10 or i:i feet high at lead. But farther North, it
?ippcarcd much higher. Its furface was extremely rug-
ged ; and here and there we faw upon it pools of wa-
ter. As this time they were three or four miles from
the American coad, which extended from S. to S. E.
by E, The Eaftern extreme formed a point, which
was much incumbered with ice, for which reafon it
obtained the name of Ice Cape. Its lat. is 70 deg. 29
min. and its long. 198 deg. 2x> min.

On the 19th, they found a good deal of drift ice a-
bout them, and the main ice was about 2 leagues to
the N. At half pall one they got in with the edge of
it. It was not fo compadi as that which they had feen
to the Northward ; but it was too clofe, and in too
large pieces, to attempt forcing the (hips through it.
On the ice lay a prodigious number of fea horfes, and
as they were in want of frefh proviiions, the boats from
each ftiip went to get fome.

By feven in the evening, they had received on board
the Refolution, nine of thefe animals ; which, till now,
they had fuppofcd to be fea- cows, fo that they were
not a little disappointed, efpecially fome of the feamen,
who, for the novelty of the thing, had been feafting
their eyes, for fome days paft. Nor would they have
been difappointed now, nor have known the difference,
if Ahey had not happened to have one or two on board,

wbutx

4/6 Captain Cook's thihd Voyage

who had been at Greenland, and declared what ani«
mals they were, and that no one ever eat of them. But
notwithftanding this, they lived upon them as long as
diey lafted ; and there were few on board who did not
prefer them to fait meat.

They lie in herds of many hundreds upon the ice,
huddling one over the other like fwinc, and roar or
bray very loud ; fo that in the night or foggy weather,
they gave us notice of the vicinity of the ice, before
we could fee it. We never f^ound the whole herd aflcep,
fome being always upon the watch : thefe, on the ap-
proach of the boat, would wake thofe next to them,
and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the
whole herd would be awake pr«fently ; but they were
feldoni in a hurry to get away, till they had been once
fired at, then they would tumble the one over the other
into the fea in the utmoft confulion. The female will
defend the young to the very laft, at the expence of her
own life, whether in the water or upon the ice. Nor
will the voung one quit the dam, though flie be deacl>
fo that if you kill t>ne you are fure of the other.

It is worth obferving, that for feveral days we had
frequently fecn flocks of ducks flying to the Southward.
They were of two forts, the one much larger than the
other. The largeft were of a brown colour, and of the
fmall fort, either the duck or drake was black and
white, and the other brown. Does not this indicate
that there raufl be land to the North, where thefe birds
find flieher in the proper feafon to breed, and froin
whence they wc^re now returning to a warmer
clknate?

From this day to the 29th, Captain Cook kept beat-
ing along the edge of the ice, from the American to
\\^,% A^atic coa(l| with intent, if poffible, to penetrate it;^

Round the World.

477

>cat-
to
tc it,
9nd

and i>rocced to the Northward^ but wkhout effect. At
one time, he. was in a manner (urroanded by the ice,-
and had no way left to clear it, but by ftanding to the
Southward. Afterwards, having fallen in with the
main ice, they were diretfted how to keep along the
edge of it, by the roaring of the fea-horfes.

On the 27th, Captain Cook went witn the boats, to ^
examine the date of the ice. He found it confiding of
loofe pieces, of various extent, and fo clofe together,
that he could hardly enter the outer edge with a boat;
and it was as impoffible for the (hips to enter it, as if
it had been fo many rocks. He took particular notice,
that it was all pure tranfpareni:. . ice, except the upper
furface, which was a litde porous. It appeared to be
entirely compofed of frozen (how, and to have been all
formed at fea. For, fetting afide the im probability ,or
rather impofiibility, of fuch huge mafles floating out, of
rivers, in which there is hardly water for a boat, none
of the produdtions of the land were found incorporated,
or fixed in it; which muft have unavoidably been the
cafe, had it been formed in rivers, either great or fmall.
The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the
field, were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four
or five; and he judged, that the larger pieces reached
thirty feet, or more under the furface of the water. It
alio appeared to him very improbable, that this ice
couldihave been the production of the preceding win-
ter alone. I (hould fuppore it rather to have been the
produdlion of a great many winters. Nor was it lefs
improbable, according to my judgment, that the little
that remained of the lummer, could deftroy the tenth
part of what now fubfided of this mafs -, for the fun
had already exerted upon it the full influence of his
rays. It is the wind, or rather the wave$ raifed by the
wind, that brings down the bulk of thefe enormous
ipaQes, by grinding one piece againd another. We

' ^ meafured

•^mmtiw

\l'

478 CAPtAiH Cook's THIRD Voyaob

iiieaftired the dMh of bnc piece of ice, and found it
.to be 6fteen feelf fo that the (hips might hpe failed
over it. If I had not meafured this depth,' I woqld not
h»7t beltev^ed that the^c was a fu<Hcient weigh*- of ice
above the furface, to hare fun^the other fo nnuch be-
low it.

On the 29tb; Capt. Cook proceeded Northward, as
^far as Cape North, on the coaft of Afia ; this Cape he
determined to wcr-**' ..-, being cofivinced that the coaft
beyond it muft take a very Wcftcrly dJreftion, as he
could fee no land to the Northward of it, though the
•horizon was then pretty clear. Being difappointed in
this attempt, the Captain now found, that • the feafon
was {q far advanced j and the time when the frbft was
expend to fet in fo near at hand, that he could not
jthitilc it prudent to make any farther attempt^ to find
4Lpal&ge into the Atlantic this year, i|i any dirci^ion.
His attention, therefore, was now direfted to find out
fome place, where he might be fupplied with wood and
iTater j and the firft objeft ir^ his thoughts was, how
he Ihduld fpend the winter, fo as to make fome im-
provements in Geography and Navigation, and at the
ian^ time, be in a condition to return to the North ia
, farther' fearch of a paflage the cnfuing fummer.

8 008

koVHDTHB Woa LV^

■^^ ^

BOOK

CHAP.

VII.

Return to the Southward — Barney's Ifland— Pafs the
Eaftern Cape of Afia — ^Dcfcription and iituation of
it — Arrival at Norton Sound— Interview with the
natives — Dcfcription of the Ruffian fettlcment at
Oonalafhka — Mowee and Owhyhec, two of the Sand-
wich iflands difcovercd— The natives rcfufc to-drmk
fugar-cane beer.

■t ■

LEAVING thcfe dreary regions of ice and fnow,
Capt. Cook now (leered Southward, and on the
Uiit of Aug. 1778, pafled by a fmall iiland, about three
leagues from the main, in the lat. of 67 deg. 45 min.
The next day he. came in fight of a pretty lofty pro-
montory, in the lat. of 67 deg. 3 min. and in the long. ¥
of 188 deg. ti mill. He was now well afTured, that
this was. the country of the Tfchutiki, or the N. E.
coad of Afia, and that this Cape was the limit of Beer-
ling's voyage in 1728.

On the 2nd of September, they had fair weather and
Ifun-ihine, of which, for near five days before, they
Ihad been deprived ; each as they ranged along the
Icoajl; at the diftance'of four miles, they faw feveral
|of the inhabitants, and fome of their habitations^ which
looked like little hillocks of earth. In the evening they

paffcd

■i*-^:-

480 CAPrAii^ Cook's THIRD VoVAdjB

paiTed the Eadern Cape $ the fame point otla^qd which
they had pafled on the 1 1 th of Auguft ; and from
which the coaft changes its dire^ion, and tends S. W.
They who believe implicitly (in Mr. Staehlin's map,
thought it then to be the Eafl point of his Ifland Alafch-
ka ; but they were fatisiied, by this time, that it could
be no other than the Eaftern promontory of Afia ; and,
probably, the proper Tfchukofcfkoi Nofs ; though the
promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is far-
ther to the S. W. However, Captain Cook concluded,
as Beering did before him, that this is the mod Eaflerly
point of Afia. It is a peninfula of cohfiderable height,
joined to the cofitincnt by a very low, and, to appear-
ance, narrow neck of land. It feems a fteep rocky cliff
next the fea; and off the point are fome rocks like
fpircs..

After paffing this Cape, Capt. Cook fleered for the
Northern point of St. Lawrence Bay, in which he b^id
anchored on the loth of Aug. He reached it the next
morning, and faw fome of the inhabitants of the
place where he had feen them before, as well as
feveral others on the oppofite fide of the bay. None
of them, however, attempted to come off to the fhips,
which he thought a little extraordinary, as the weather
was favourable epough ; and thofe whom he had lately
vifited, had no reafon, that he could think of, to dif.
like their vifitors. Thefe people muft be the Tfchut/ki,
a nation, that, the Ruffians had not been able to con-
quer ; and from the whole of their condu^ with us,
it appears that they have not yet brought them under
rubie£lion, though it is obvious they muft have a trade
with the Ruffians, either direAly, or by the means of
fome neighbouring nation; as we cannot othcrwife
account for their being in the poifeffion of the Spon-
toons, in particular of which we took notice.

• •

Round the World*

4Bt

As Capt. Cook gave the name of St. Lawrence to
this bay, on account of his having anchored in it on
the loth of, Aug. This bay is, at leaft, Bve leagues
broad at th^ entrance, and four leagues deep, narrow
toward the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably
well Ihehered from the fca- winds, provided there be
fufficient depth of water for (hips. The Captain,
however, did not wait to examine it, aitho' he was
ver^ defirous of finding an barlfaur in thofe parts, to
which he might refort next fpring. But he wanted one
where wood was to be got ; an article, in which hie
well knew this place to be deficient. In the afternoon,
in the dire£tion of their courfe, they what was firft
tak^n for a rock, but it proved to be a dead whale«
which feme natives of the Afiatic coaft had killed, and
were towing aOiore. They fcemrd to conceal them-
fclves behind the fifh, to avoid being feen; but was un-
neceflary, as the Captain purfued his courfe, without
taking any notice of them.

On the 4th of 5ept. he ceafed to follow the dire(Slioni
of the coaft, as he found that it tended wefterly, towards
the gulf of Anadir, into which he had no inducement
to go. He therefore fleered to the Southward, and in
the evening came in fight of Beering's Ifland of St.
Lawrence. H- was now about twelve leagues froth
the Southernmoft point of the main land, which bore
South, 83 min. Weft. This he took to be the point,
which Beering calls the Eaft point of Suchotfki, or Cape
Tfchukotikoi ; a name, which he gave it with propri-
,ety, becaufe it was from this part of the coaft that the
natives came off to him, ho call th^mlVlves of the na-
tion of the Tfchutfki. Captain Cook makes its lat. to
b^ 64 deg. 13 min. and its long. 18 j deg. 36 min.

Being thus perfedlly convinced that he was on the

coaft of Afia, aiid not on the Eaftiide of the great ifland

No. 21. FpP called

4^^ Captain Cook's third Voyaoi

-called Alafchka, he now ftood over to the coaft of Amc-
rica« in hopes of finding it there. He was rather in-
duced to fpend lome time in fearch of this iflaiid, as it
is rcprefented to abound with wood, which was great-
ly wanted by both Ihips.

On the 8th, he arrived at a Sound, lying between
two points of land, one of which to the North, he
named Cape Darby, and the other to the South, Cape
Denbigh. This inlet, which (in honour of Sir Fletcher
N:ir'ton, now Lord Grantham) he named Norton Sound,
extends to the northward as far as lat. 64 deg. 54 min.
Here they found water, and plenty ot drift wood. He
(laid here till the 17th, occafionally landing, not only to
procure wood and water, but to refrelh the men, who
were alternately fcnt on (bore to feed on the berries,
and to cut broomSf of which they were in want, and
the branches of fpruce trees for beer. He likewife fent
Lieut. King, with a party of men, in two boats, to ex-
plore the Sund, and to land on the adjacent heights.
Fr >m the refult of Lieut. King's obfervati^ns, he was
perf<^(5lly faiisfied that Mr. StaehUn*s ifland was quite
imaginary j and, in the fequel, he found that the namq
of Alaibuka is given both by the Ruffians and natives
to ihe American continent in genferal, altho* it properly
belongs to a very projedling Cape adjoining to the iiland
ofOonamaVa..

During Capt. Cook*s (lay in this Sound, he had iome
intercourle with the natives. A family of them came
near to the place where we were taking off wood. I
know not how many there were at firft; but I only faw
(he hulband, the wife, an^ the child ; and a fourth per-
fon that bore the human (hape, and that was all ; for
he was the mod: deformed cripple I had ever fecn or
heard of. The other man was almoft blind i and nei-
ther he nor his wife, were iuch good looking people

Round the World.

4«3

as we had fometimes fcen amongd the natives of this
coaft. The under lips of both were bored ; and they
bad in their pofleffion fome fuch ^lafs beads as I had
met with bctore amongft their ncighboors. But iron
was their beloved article. For four knives which we
had made out of an old iron hooj;, I got from them near
40olb. weight of fifli, which they had caught on this
or the preceding day.

Having finirtied the ncccflary occupations at Norton
Sound, Capt. Cook thought it high time to think of
leaving thefe Northern regions, and to retire to fome
place during the winter, where he mighrprocure refrelh-
ments fur his people, and a fmall fupply of provilions.
Pctropaulowlka, or the harbour of St. Peter and St.
Paul, in Kamtfchatka, did not appear likely to f urnifh
either the one or the other, for fo large a number of
men. He had, befides other reafons for not repairing
thither at this time. The fird, and oi; which all others
depended, was the great diflike to lieinadlive for fix or
fcven months, which would have been the neceffary con-
fequence of wintering in any of thefe Northern parts.
No place was fo conveniently within his reach, where
he could expedl to have his wants relieved, as the Sand-
wich iflands. To them, therefore, he determined to
proceed ; after firft endeavouring to find a harbour on
the continent of America, to the Southward, where he
could meet with a farther fupply of water.

Leaving Norton Sound on the 17 th, Capt. Cook fuc-
ceflivtly faw Befborough Ifland, Stuart's Ifland, Clerke's
Idand, Gore's Ifland, and Pinnacle's Ifland. But nei-
ther among thefe, nor along the coaft, could he find an
harbour.^ where he could procure the wi(hed-for fupply
of water. It is here to be obferved, that no land was
to be feen to the Southward of Point Shallow Water,
which he judged to lie in the lat. of 6^ deg. fo that bfr-

twcea

4^4 Captain Cook'i third Voyaoe

tween this Ut. and Shoal Nefs, in theUt. of 60 deg. the
coaft is entirely unexplored.

At length, 01 the sd of 0(;iober, he again arrived at
the ifland of Oonalafhlvaf and haulei into a bay, known
bv the name o( Ggoochfhack, lying ten miles to the
Weftward i)f the harbour of Sam^anoodha, where he
had formerly anchored ; but finding very deep water
in this bay, he was glad to get out again. The na-
tives, many of whom lived here, vifited them ac dif<*
ferent times, bringing with them dried falmon and
other fiHi; which they exchanged with the Teamen for
tobacco. But a few days before, every ounce of to-
bacco that was in the (hip, had been diuributed among
them i and the quantity v\as not half fufficient to an-
fwer their demands. Notwithdanding this, fo impro-
vident is an Engii(h Tailor, that they were aspiofulein
making their bargains, as it they had now arrived at
the port in Virginia 1 by which means, in leTs than
48 hours, the value of this article of barter was lowered
above rooo per cent, i

On the 3d they anchored in Samganooda harbeur \
and the carpenters were employed in repairing a leak,
which the ReToluiion had Tprung, in her paflage from
Norton Sound. The vegecables that had been here
met with, were now moiHy in a ilate of decay \ (b that
they were but little beri' ^ted by the great quantities
of berries every where found afhore. That they might
avail themfelves as much as poHible of this ufeful re-
freftiment, one third of the people, by turns, had leave
to go and pick them. Coniiderable quantities of them
were alTo procured from the natives. If there were
any fig) s of ihe Tcurvy in either (hip, theTe berri^, and
the uTe of Tpruce beer, which they had to drink every
day, cffeAually radicated them. The Blhery likewise
enabled them to make a (onfiderable iaving pf their

Round the World,

4«5

fca provifious. And, at this Ifl.ind, the captaia foun4
a Ruffian fcttJement or faftory, for the procuring of th«
fkins of fca-oitt-rs. Mutual civilities paffcd between
the Captain and the Chiefs of this fcttlemcnt ^ from
whom he procured much ufcful information j and by
whofc means he difpatched a letter to the Lord, of the
Aclmiralty^ (inclofmg a Chart of all the Northern coaft
he had vifited") which was to be forwarded the cnfuing
fpring, to Mjor Behm, Governor of Kamtlchatka,
and by him the following winter to Fcterlburgh.

Captain Cook continued at Oonalaflika till the 26th
of 0».%bcr,^ 177^- But before we proceed farther in
the Voyage", we (hall give his account of feveral iutc-
rcfling particulars relative to this ifland.

After we became acquainted with thefe Ruffianfy
fome-of our gentlemen, at different times, vifited their
fettlemenr on the ifland ; where they always met with
a hearty welcome. This fettlemcnt confided of a dweU
ling-houfc, and two ftore-houfes. And, befides the
Ruffians, there was a number of the Kamtfchadalet,
'iXid, of the natives, as fcrvants or flavcs, to the former.
Some others of the natives, who feemed independent
of the Ruffians, lived at the fame place. Such of them
as belonged to the Ruffians were all males ; and they
are taken, or perhaps, purehafcd from their parents
when young. 1 here was, at this time, about twenty
of thefe, who could be looked upon in no other light
than as children. They all live in the fame houfe i the
Ruffians at the upper end, the Kamtfchadales in the
middle; and the natives at the lower end; where i»
fixed a large boiler for preparing their food, which
confifls chiefly of what the fea produces, with the ad-
dition of wild roots and berries. There is little dif-
ference between the fir ft and lail table, befides what is
produced by cookery, m which the Ruffians have the

art

4S6

Captain Cook's third Voyage

art to make indifferent things palatable. I have eat
whale's flefli of their dreffing, which 1 thought very
good J and they make a kind of pan-pudding of fal-
mon roe, beaten up fine, and fryed, that is no bad
fuccedaneum for bread. They may, now and then,
tafte real bread, or have a difti in wN jh flour is an in-
gredient ; but this can only be an occafiondl luxury.
If we except the juice of berries, which they fip at their
meals, they have uo other liquor befides pure water ;
and it feems to be very happy for them that they have
nothing ftronger.

As the ifland fupplies them with food, fo it does, in
a great meafure, with clothing. This confifts chiefly
of ikins, and is, perhaps, the bed they could have.
The upper garment is made like our waggoner's frock,
and reaches a« low as the knee. Befides this, they
wear a waiftcoat or two, a pair of breeches ; a fur cap;
and a pair of boots, the foals and upper leathers of
which are of Ruffian leather ; but the legs are made of
a kind of ftrong gut. Their two Chiefs, Ifmyloff and
Ivanovitch, wore each a calico frock ; and they, as
well as fome others, had fliirts, which were of filk.
Thefc, perhaps, were the only part of their drefs not
made among themfelves.

There are Ruffians fettled upon all the principal
iflands between Oonalaflika and Kamfchatka, for the
fole purpofe of collefting furs. This great objeft is
the fea beaver or otter. I never heard them enquire
after any other animal ; tho' thole, whofe fkins are of
inferior value, are alfo made part of their cargoes, I
never thought to alk how long they have had a fettle-*
ment upon Oonalaflika, and the neighbouring ifles ;
but to judge from the great fubjeftion the natives arc
under, this cannot be of a very late date. The Ruffians
began to frequent OonalalhJia in 1762. All thcfe fx^r

rics

Round the World.

4«7

ries are relieved, from time to time, by others. Thofe
we met with, arrived here from Okotllc, in 1776, and-
are to return in 1781 ; fo that their ftay at the ifland
will be four years at leaft.

It is now time to give fome account of the native in-
habitants. To all appearance, they are the moll peace-
able, inoffenfive people, I ever met with. And, as to
honefty, they might ferve as a pattern to the mod ci-
vilifed nation upon earth. But, from what I faw of
their neighbours, with whom the Ruffians have no con-
neftion, I doubt whether this was their original difpo-
fition ; and rather think that it has been the confe-
quence of their prefcnt ftate of fubjeftion. Indeed, if
fome of pur gentlemen did not underftand the Ruffians,
they had been obliged to make fome fevere examples,
before they could bring the iflanders into any order.
It there were feverities infliifted at firft, the bell apology
for them is, that they have produced the happieft con-
fequcnces ; and» at prefent, the greateft harmtmy fub-
fifts between the two nations. The natives have their
own Chiefs in each ifland, nnd feem to enjoy liberty
and property unmolcfted. But whether or no they are
tributaries to the Ruffians, wc could never find out.
There was fome reafon to think that they are.

Thefe people are rather low of flature, but plump
and well fliaped, with rivcher Ihort necks; fwarthy,
with chubby faces, black eyes, fmall beards, and long, ■
ftraight, black hair, which the men wear loofe be*
hind, and cut before, but the women tie it up in a
bunch.

Their drefs has been occafionally mentioned. Both
fexes wear the fame fafliion ; the only difference is in the
materials. The women's frock is made of the feal
ikin 'y and that of the men, of the fkins of birds, both

reaching

4S8 Captain Cook's third Voyaob

teaching below the knee* This is the whole drcfs of
the women. But over the frock, the men wear ano-
ther made of the gut, which refifts water ; and has a
hood to it, which draws over the head. S >me o^ them
wear boots $ and all of them have a kind of oval
fnouted cap, made of wood, with a rim to admit the
head. Thefe caps are dyed with green and other co-
lours ) and round the upper part of the rim, are ftuck
the long briftles of fome fea animal, on which are
ftrung glafs beads, and on the front is a fmall image or
two made of bone.

They make ufe of no pain% but the women punfture
their faces llightly ; and both men and women bore the
under lip, to which they fix pieces of bone. But it is
as uncommon at Oona'ainka, to fee a man with this or -
" uament, as to fee a woman without it. Some fix heads
to the upper lip, under the noftrils ; and ail of them
hang ornaments in their ears.

Their food confifts of fifli, fea-anlmals, birds, roots,
and berries ; and even of fea-wted. They dry large
qualitities of lilh in fummer ; which they lay up in
fmall huts for winter ufe ; and, probably, they preferve
roots and berries for the fame time of fcarcity. They
eat almofl every thing raw. Broiling and boiling were
the only methods of cookery that 1 faw them make ufe
of; and thefirft was very probably learnt from the Ruf.
Huns. Some have got little hrafs kettles ; and thofe
who have not, make one of a flat Ikone, with fides of
clay, not unlike a (landing pye.

I was once prefcnt, when the chief of Oonalaflika
made his dinner of the raw head of a large halibut, juft
caught. Before any was given to the chief, two of
his fcrvants cat the gills, without any other drcfEng,
b'cfidcs fqueezing out the flimc. This done, one of

- them

Round the World,

489

them cut off the head of the fifti, took it to the fea and
wafticd it, then came with it and fat down by the chief,
firft pulUng up fome grafs, upon a part of which the
head was laid, and the reft was ftrewed before the
chief. He then cut large pieces off the cheeks, and
laid thefe within the reach of the great man, who
fwallowed them with as much fatisfa6tion as we fliould
do raw oyfters. When he had done, the remains of
the head were cut in pieces, and given to the attend-
ants, who tore off the meat with their teeth, and gnaw-
ed the bones like fo many dogs.

As thefe people ufe no paint, they are not (b dirty In
their perfons as the favagcs who thus befmear them-
felvesj but they are full as loufy and filthy in their
lioufcs. Their method of building is as follows; they
dig, in the ground, an oblong fquare pit, the length of
which fcldom exceeds fifty feet, and breadth twenty ^
but in general the dimenfions are fmallcr. Over this
excavation they form the roof of wood which the fea
throws alhore. This roof is covered firft with grafs,
and then with earth j fo that the outward appearance
is like a dunghill. In the middle of the roof, towards
each end, is left a fquare opening, by which the light
is admitted ; one of thefe openings being for this pur-
pofe only, and the other being alfo ufed to go in and
out by, with the help of a ladder, or rather a poft,
with fleps cut in it. In fome houfes there is another
entrance below ; but this is not common. Round the
fides and ends of the huts, the families (for feveral are
lodged together) have their feparate apartments, where
they llecp, and fit at work ; not upon benches, but in
a kind of a concave trench,* which is dug all round the
infide of the houfe, and covered with mats ; fo that
this part is kept tolerably decent. But the middle oi
the houfe, which is common to all the families, is far
other wife. For altho' it be covered with dry*grafs.

m^i

490 Captain Cqok^s third Vqyagi

it is a receptacle. for dirt of every kind, and theplac^
for the urine trough ; the flench of which is rot
mended l»y rlw hides, or leather being almoft continu-
ally fteepcd in it. Behind and over the trench, are
placed the few eSeds they are poiTefledof^ fuch as
their clothing, xnats and ikins.

V, Th<;ir houfehold furniture confifts of bowls, fpoons.
Buckets, cans, matted baikets, and perhaps a Ruffian
kettle or pot; AH thefe uteufils are very neatly made,
and well formed ; and yet we faw no other tools among
them but the knife and the hatchet ; that is, a fmall
flat piece of iron, made like an adze, by fitting it into
j!i crooked wooden handle. Thefe were the only in-
ftruments We met with there made of iron. For altho*
the Ruffians live amonp^ft them, we found much lefs
of this metal in their polTeifioa, than we had met with
in the poifeffion of other tribes on the American con-
tinent, who had never feen, nor perhaps had any in*
tercourfe with the Ruffians. Probably a few beads, a
little tobaccb and fnuff, purchafed all they had to fpare.
There are feW, if any of them, that do not fmoke,
and chew tobacco, ami take fnuff ; a luxury that bids
fair to keep them always poor.

I They did not fecm to wi(h for more iron, or to want
atiy other inftruments, except fcwing needles, their
own being made of bone. With thefe they not only
few their canoes, and make their clothes, biit alfo
Very curious embroidery. Infbead of thread, they ufc
the fibres of finews, which they fplit to the thicknefs
which each fort of work requires. All fewing is per-
formed by the women. They are the tailors, fhoe-
makers, and boat-builders, or boat-coverers. They
tnake mats and bafkets of grafs, that are both beautiful
und flrong. Indeed there is a neatncfs and perfe^ion
' ' in

ROUNDTHE WoRLOi

49«

in moft of theif work, that flicws they neither want hig«-
nuity nor pcrfcverancc. xiw v

I fav/ not a fire-place in any one of their Iwtifts.
Th€ly are lighted, as well as heated, by lamjpi; ; which
are limple, and yet anfwerthe purpofe very well. They
are made of a flat fton^, hollowed on one fide like a
plate, and about the fame fize, or larger. . In the
hollow part they put the oil, mixed with a little dry
grafs, which ferves the purpofe of a wick. Both meii
and women frequently warm their bodies over one of
thefe lamps, by placing ir between thcif legs, under
their garments, and fitting thus over it for a few
minutes.

They produce fire both by coUifion and attrition; the
former by ftriking two ftones one againft another ; on
one of which is a ftick of about eighteen inches in
length, and the other a flat piece. The pointed end
of the ftick they prefs upon the other, whirling it
nimbly round as a drill ; thus producing fire ill a feW
minutes. This method is common in many parts of the
world. It is pradlifed by the Kamcfchadales, by thefe
people,* by the Greenlanders, by the Brazilians, by the
Otaheiteans, by the Hew Hollanders, and probably i^
many other nations, f- : . £$a^

No fuch thing as an offenfive or defenfivi;' Weapon
was feen among^ the natives of Oonalafhka. We can-
not fuppofe that the Ruflians found them in fuch a d<i-
fencelets flate ; it is more probable that, for their own
fecurity, they have difarmed them« Political reafoiis
too may have induced the Ruflians not to allow thefe
iflanders to have any large canoes ; for it is difficult to
believe they had none fuch originally, as we found
them amongft all their neighbours. Ho^f^y^r, we faw
pone here but one or two belonging to t^ Ruflians.

The

4!f)* Captain Cook's third Voyage

The canoes made ufe of by the nativea, arc the fmallcft
we had any where feen upon the American coaft ; tho*
built after the fame manner, with fome little difference
in the conftruftion. In the management of their ca-
poes, they make ufe of the double-bladed paddle,
which h held with both hands in the middle, ilriking
the water with a quick regular motion, firft on one
fide» then on the other. By this n\eans, the canoe is
impelled at a great rate, and in a dire£^ton as ftraight
as a line can be drawn. In failing from Egoochlhak to
Samganooda, two or three canoes kept way with the
ihip, tho* fhe was going at the rate of fcvcn miles an
Jio.ur, .

Their fifhing and hunting implements differ very lit-
tle from thofe ufed by the Greenlanders, as ihcy are
defcribed by Crantz. With rcfpeft to the fifties in the
feas, halibut and falmon feem to be in the greatefl plen-
ty ; and on them the inhabitants of thefe iftes fubfitl:
chiefly ; at leafti they were the only fort of fifh, ex-
cept cod, which we obferved to be laid v»p for their
winder flore.

On Monday the 26th, Capt, Cook left th»s ifland^
His intention was to proceed to the Sandwich tftands,
there to fpend a few of the winter months and then to
go to Kamfchatka, fo as to endeavour to be there by
the middle of May, the enfuing fummer. On the 26th
of November, he difcovered Mowee, and on the 30th
Owhyhee, two of the Sandwich iflands. In plying be-
tween thefe two iflands, they had an occafional traffick
with the natives of Owhyhee for provifions ; I never
met with a behaviour fo free from refcrve and fufpici-
on, in my intercourfe with any tribes of favages, as
we experienced in th^ people of this ifland. It was
yery common for them to fend up into the (hip the fevc-
ral articles they brought off for barter j afterward,

mWm

Round the Wor*.d,

they would come in themfelves, and make their bar-
gains on the quarter deck. The people of Ocaheite,
even after our repeated vifits, did not care to put fo
much confidence in us. I infer from this, that thofe
of Owhyhee muft be more faithful in their dealings
with one another, than the inhabitants of Otaheitearc.
For if little faith were obferved anaongft themfelves,
they would not be fo ready to truft ftrangcrs. It is al-
fo to be obferved, to their honour, that they never
once attempted to cheat us in exchanges j nor to comt
mit a theft. They underftand trading as well as moib
people, and feemed to comprehend clearly the rcafon
of our plying upon the coail. For tho* they broughu
off proviiions in great plenty, particularly pigs, ycK
they kept up their price ; and rather than difpofe o£
them for lefs than they thought they were worth, wouM
take them afhore again.

Having procured a quantity of fugar-cane; and hav-
ing upon a trial, made bat a few days ago, foimd that
a ftrong decoftion of it produced a very palatable beer,
I ordered fome more to be brewed, .for- our general*
ufe. But when the caik was now broached, not one
of our crew even fo much as tafte it. As I had no mo-
tive in preparing this beverage, but to fave our fpi-
rits for a colder climate, I gave myfelf no trouble,
either by exerting authority, or by having recourfc t<>
perfuafion, to prevail upon them to drink it ; knowing;
that there was no danger of the fcurvy, fo long as w(
could get a plentiful fupply of other vegetables. But,
;hat I might not be difappointcd in my views, 1 gave
orders that no grog fliould be Icrved in cither fliip. I
myfelf, and the officers, continued to make ufe of this
fugar-cane beer, whenever we could get materials for
brewing it, A few hops, of which we had fome on
board, improved it much. It has the tafte of new
paalt beer ^ and I believe no one will doubt of its being

very

494 Captajn Cook's third Voyaob

very wholerome. And yet my inconfiderate crew al-
ledged it was injurious to their health.

They had no better rcafon to fupport a refolution,
which they took on our firft arrival in King George's
Sound, not to drink the fpruce beer made there. But,
whether from a confideration that it was not the firl^
time of their being required to ufe that liquor, or from
other reafon, they did not attempt to carry their purpofe
into actual execution ( and i had never beard of it till
now, when they renewed their ignorant oppofition to
my bed endeavours to ferve them. Every innovation
whatever, on board a fhip, though ever To much to the
advantage of Teamen, is fure to meet with their higheft
difapprobation. But portable foup, and four krout
vrere, at firft, condemned at ftuff unfit for human be-r
ings. Few commanders have introduced into their
fhips more novelties, as ufcful varieties of' food and
drink, than I have done. Indeed few commanders
have had the fame opportunities of trying fu^h experi-
• ments, or been driven to the fame neceflity of Uying
them. It has, however, been, in a great meafure, ow-
ing to various little deviations fromeftabliOied pradtice^
tliat I have bsen able to preferve my people, generally
fpeaking, from that dreadful diftemper, the fcurvy,
•which has perhaps dcftroyed more of our failors, in
their peaceful voyages, than have fallen by the enemy
in miUtary expeditious.

Many days were fpent in plying, in endeavouring to
get to the windward of Owhyhee, and to find a proper
place for anchorage. At one time the canoes thronged
to the (hip with hogs and women. The latter, the
Captain obfcrvcd, it was not poflible to keep from com-
ing on board j no women, he ever met with, were Icfs
refer ved j and indeed, it appeared to him, that they

* vifited

c .<

RoVNDTHs World*.

495

vifitcd the (hips with no other view, than to make a
furrcnder of their perfons.

At length, on the i6th of January 1779, a bay
was difcovered, into which, after he had lent to ex-
amine it. Captain Cook refolved to carry the Ihips.
As night approached, the greater part of his vifitors
retired to the (hore ; but numbers of them requefted
his permiffion to fleep on board. Curiofity was not the
only motive, at leaft with fome ; for, the next morn-
ing, feveral things were mifling, which determined him
not to entertain fo many another time.

On the 17th, he anchored in this bay, which is
called by the natives Karakakooa. The fhips conti-
nued to be much crowed with natives, and were fur-
rounded by a multitude of canoes. I had no where,
in the courfe of my voyage, feen fo numerous a body
of people affembled at one place. For, befides thole
who had come off to us in canoes, all the (hore of the
bay was covered with fpe£^ators, and many hundreds
were fwimming round the ihips like ihoals of fiih.
We could not be flruck with the Angularity of this
fcene ; and perhaps there were feyr on board who
now lamented our havmg failed in bur endeavours to
find a Northern paffage homeward, laft fummer. To
this difappointmtnt we owed our having it in our pow-
er to revifit the Sandwich iflands, and to enrich our
voyage with a difcovery which, though the laft feemed
in many refpcfts, to be the moft important that had
hitherto been made by Europeans, throughout the ex-
tent of ";e Pacific Ocean.

BOOK

4f5

Captain Cook's third Voyaoi

■a*

BOO K

CHAP. VIII.

Defer iptioa of Karakakooa Bay — ^Ceremonies at the
landing of Capt. Cook— Arrival of Tcreeoboo,
king of the ifland— Vifit from the king, and return-
ed by Capt. Cook— Tereeoboo's magnificent prefent
— ^The fhips leave the ifland — The .Refolution da-
maged in a gale, and obliged to return — ^Death of
Capt. Cook.

KARAKAKOOA Bay, is fituatcd on the W. fide
of the ifland Owhyhee. It is bounded by two
points of land, at th<3 diflance of half a league, and
bearing S. S. E. and N. N. W. from each other. On
the N. point, which is flat and barren, flands the vil-
lage of Kowrowa ; and in the bottom of the bay,
near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees is another vil-
lage of a more conflderable flze, called Kakooa : be-
tween them runs a high rocky cliff, inacceflible from
the fea fliore. On the S. fide the coafl, for about a
mile inland, has a rugged appearance ; beyond which
the country rifes with a gradual afcent, and is over-
fpread with cultivated inclofures and groves of cocoa-
nut tjrees, where the habitations of the natives are fcat-
tered in great numbers. The fhore all round the bay,

'■'■is

Round theWorld.

49t

is covered with a blaclc- coral rock, which makes the
landing very dangerous in rough weather ; except at
the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine Tandy
beach, with a Moral, or burying-place, at one extre-
mity, and a fmall well of fre(h, at the other. In this
bay we moored, Jan. 17, 1779, on the N. fide, about
a quarter of a mile from the ihore, Kowrowa bearing

As foon as the inhabitants perceived our intention
of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the fliorc
in aftonifliing numbers, and exprelTcd their joy by fing-
ing and (houting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and
extravagant geftures. The decks and rigging of both
fh'tps were foon completely covered with them; and a
multitude of women and boys, who had not been able
to get canoes, came fwimming round us in (hoals |
many of whom, not finding room on board, remained
the whole day playing in the water.

Among the chiefs who came on board the Rcfoluii-
on, was a young man, named Pareea, whom we foon
perceived to be a perfon of great authority. On prc-
fcnting himfelf to Capt. Cook, he told him, that he
was Jakanee (we afterwards met with fevcral others of
the fame denomination ; but whether it be an office, or
fome degree of affinity, we could never learn with cer-
tainty.) to the king of the ifland, who was at that
time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and
was cxpc<fted to return within three or four days. A
few prefents from Capt. Cook attached him entirely to
our iiitercfts, and he became exceedingly ufeful to us
in the management of his countrymen, as we had foon
occafion to experience. For we had not been long at
anchor, when it was obferved that the Difcovery had
fuch a number of people hanging on one fide, as oc-
calioned her to heel confiderably ;' and that the men

Rrr were

498 Captain Cook's third Voyaoi

were unable to keep off the crowds which continued
prciTing into her. Capt. Cook, being apprehenfive
that (he might fuffcr fome injury, pointed out the dan-
ger to Pareea, who immediately went to their aflift.
ance, cleared the (hip of its incumbrances, and drove
away the canoes that furrounded her.

The authority of the chiefs over the inferior peo-
ple appeared, from this incident, to be of the mod
defpotic kind. A fimilar indance of it happened the
fame day on board the Refoluiion j where the crowd
being fo great, as to impede the necefTary bufmefs of
the Ihip, we were obliged to have recourfc to the af-
fiftance ot Kaneena, another of their chiefs, who had
likewife attached himfelf to Capt. Cook. The incon-
venience we laboured under being made known, he
immediately ordered his countrymen to quit the vcflel,
and we were not a little furprifed to (ee them jump
overboard, without a moment's hefitacion ; all except
one man, who loitering behind, and fliewing fome un-
willingnefs to obey,«Kaneena took him up in in his arms,
and threw hiin into the fca.

Both the chiefs were men of (Irong and well pro-
portioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably

f leafing, cfpecially Kaneena, who was the fincft man
ever faw. He was above fix feet high, and regular
and expreffive features, with lively, dark eyes ; his
carriage was eafy, firm, and graceful.

It has been already mentioned, that during our long
cruize off this ifland, the inhabitrmts had always be-
haved with great fairnefs and honefty in their dealings,
and had not (hewn the (lightefl: propenfity to theft ;
which appeared to us the more extraordinary, becaufc
thofe with whom we had hitherto held any intercourfe,
were of the lowcft rank, cither fcrvanis or filhermen.

' - We

Round the World.

499

Wc now found the cafe exceedingly altered. The im-.
menfe crowd of iflandcrs, which blocked up every
part of the (hips, not only afforded frequent opportu-
nities of pilfering without rifk or difcovery, but our
inferiority in number, held forth a profpeft of efcaping
with impunity in cafe of detc<Jlion. Another dircum-
(lance, to which we attributed this alteration in their
beaviour, was the prefence and encouragement of thcif
chiefs 5 for generally triicing the booty into the pof-
feffion of fome men of confcquence, we had the ftrong-
e(l reafon to fufpe^t that thefe depredations were com*
mittcd at their ipftigation.

Soon as the Rcfolution had got into her ftation, our
two friends, Pareeai and KaneenOf brought on board a
third chief, nanied Koah, who, we were told^ was a
prteft, and had been, in his youth, adiftinguilhed war-
rior. He was a little old man^ of an emaciated figure.
Being led into the cabin, he^ approached Capt. Cook
with great veneration, and threw over his (houlders a
piece of red cloiih, which he had brought along with
him. Then ftepping a few pace^. back, he made an
offering of a imall pig, which he held in- his^ hand^
whiUt he pronounped a difcourfe that laft/ed for a con-
fiderable time. This ceremony was frequently repeat*^
ed during our (lay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us,
from many circumftances, to be a fort of religious ado^
ration.

When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with-
Capt. Cook, eating plentifully of what was fet before
him, but, like the reft of the inhabitants of the iflands
in thofe feas, could fcarcely be prevailed on to tafte a
fecond time our wine or fpirits. In the evening, Capt.
Cook, attended by Mr. Bayley and Mr. King, accom*
panied him on (hore* We landed at the beach, and
^eifc received by four men, who carried wands tipc

5op Captain Cook's third Voyagb

with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing
with a loud voice a (hort fentence, in which we could
only diftinguifli the word Orono. The crowd, which
had been coUedled on the fhore, retired at our approach ;
and not a perfoh was to be feen, except a few lying
proftrate on the ground* neat the huts of the adjoin-
ing village.
♦

The next morning the 1 8th, we went on fhore with
a guard of eight marines, including the corporal and
lieutenant, having orders to ere6l the obfervatory, in
fuch a fituation as might bed enable me to luperintend
and protect the caterers, ?nd the other working par-
ties that were to be on ffiore. As we were vie^vii^g a
fpot conveniently fituated for this purpofe, in th«? mid-
dle of the village, Pareea, who was always rtady to
Ihew both his power and his good will, offered to pull
down fome houfes thit would have obftru^ted our ob-
fervations. Ho ever, we thought it proper to decline
this offer, and fixed on a field of f vveet potatoes adjoin*^
ing to the Moral, which was readily granted us ; and
the pricfts, to prevent the intrufion of the natives, im-
mediately 'confi^rated the place* by fixing their wj^nds
round the wall by which it was inclofed.

This ibrt of religious interdi6lion they call taboo j a
word we heard often repeated, during our ftay among
thefe iilanders, and found to be a very powerful and
cxtenlive operation, No canoes ever prefumed to land
near us ; the natives fat on the wall, but none ofered
to come within the tabooed (pace, till he had obtained
our permif^ion, But though the men, at our requeft,
would come acrofs the ^eld with provifions, yet not all
our endeavours could prevail on the women to approach
MS. Prefents were tried, but witiiout effied ; Pareen
and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in vain ;
yf^ w^re inva^riably £(Dfwercd| that the ^atooa and Tet>T

Round the World»

501

reeoboo (which was the nhras of their king) w6iild kill
them. This circumftancc affordeii no fmall matter of
amufement to our friends on board, where the crowds
of people, and particularly of wonKsn, that continued
to flock thither, obliged them aliiioft every hour to
clear the veflel, in order to have room to do the nccel*
fary duties of the fhip. On thefe occafions, two of
three hundred women were frequently made to jumjv
into the water at once, where they continued i'wim-
ming and playing about, till they could again procure
admittance.

From the 19th to the 24th, nothing very miterial
happened. The caulkers were fet to work on the lidea
of the fhips, and the rigging was overhauled and re-
paired. The faking of hogs for fca (lore, was alfo one
of the principal objeds of Capt. Cook's attencion ; in
which, noivi'ithftanding it has generally been thought
impradicable to cure the flelh of animals by faking, iii
tropical clim^ites, he was very fuccefsful.

We had not been long fettled at our obfervatory,
before we difcovcred, in our neighbourhood, the habir,
tations of a fociety ot priefts, whofe regular u.tend-
ance at the Morai had excired our curiofity. Their
huts ftood round a pond of water, and were furround-
ed by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which fcparated
them fror,5 the beach and the reft of the village, and
gave the place an air of religious retirement. On ac-
quainting Capt, Cook with this, he refolved to pay
them a vifit ; vvhich he accordingly did, and was
received with nearly ih<: fame leUgious ceremonies as at
theMorai*

During the reft of the time we ren>aincd in the bay,
whenever Capt. Cook came on tkore, he was attended
by one oi thcfe priefts, who went before hinn, giving

notice

502

Captain Cook's third Vovagb

notice that the Orono had landed, and ordered the peo-
ple to proftrate themfelves. The fame perfon alfo con-
ftantly accompanied him on the water, (landing in the
bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving
notice of his approach to the natives, wlio were in ca-
noes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and
lay down on their faces x.\\i he had pafled. Whenever
they flopped at the obfervatory, Kaireekeea and his
brethren made their appearance with hogs, cocoa nuts,
bread-fruit, &c. and prefcnted them with the ufual io-
lemnities. It was on thefe occalions that fome of the
inferior chiefs frequent' y requefted to be permitted to
make an offering to the Orono. When this was granted,
they prefented the hog themfelves, generally with evi-
dent marks of fear in their countenances ; whilft
Kaireekeea and the priefls phanced their accudomed
hymns.

The civilities of this fociety were not, however, con-
fined to mere ceremony and parade. Our party on
fliore received from them, every day a fupply of hogs
and vegetables, more than fuiHcient for our fubfiftance ;
and feveral canoes loaded with provifions werefent to
the fhips with the famd pun4luality. No return was
ever demanded, or even hinted at in the mod dirt:ant
manner. Their prefcnts were made^with a regularity
more like the difcharge of a religious duty, than the
cff'cft of mere liberality ; and when. \^e enquired at
whofe charge all this munificence was difpjaycd, we
wereiold, it was at the expence of a. gjfcat iTjan-called
Kaoo, the chief of the priefts, and grandfather, to Kai-
reekeea, who was at that time abfent attending the king
of the illand. ^

Things continued in this ftate till the 24th, whcn^ we
were a good deal furprized to lind that no canoes were
fuffered 10 put oh' from the Ihore, and that the natives

kept

Round the World^

503

kept clofe to their houfes. After feveral hours fi^fpence^
we learned that the bay was taboocd« and all intercourfe
with us interdidled, on account of rhe arrival of Ter-
reeoboo. As we had not forefeen an accident of this
fort, our crews were ob'iged to pafs the day without
their ufual fupply of vegetables. The next morning,
therefore, they endeavoured, both by threats and pro-
mifes, to induce the natives to come along-fide; and
as fome of them were at laft venturing to put put off,
a chief was obferved attempting to drive them away.
A mufquet was immediately fired over of his head, to
make them delift, which had the defired elFedt, and
refrefhments were foon after purchafed as ufual. In
the afternoon, Terreeoboo arrived, and vifited the (hips
in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in
which were his wife and children. He (laid on board
tiH near ten o'clock.

return was

Ihe next day the king, in a large canoe, attended
by two others, paddled towards the (hip in great ftate.
Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the
firft canoe was Tereeoboo and his chiefs, drclTed in their
rich feathered cloaks and helnriets, and armed with long
fpears and daggers ; in the fecond, came the venerable
Kaoo, the chief of the priefs, and his brethren, with
their idols difplaycd on red cloth. Thefc idols were
bulls of a gigantic fize, made of wicker work, and
curioufly covered with fmall feathers of various colours,
wrought ir* the fame manner with their cloaks. Their
eyes wp : ni5?ie of large pearl oyller, with a black nut
fixed i'^ '. ;;<.ntre i their mouths were fet with a dou-
ble row oi tie tangs of dogs, and together witH the
refk of their itaturcs, were ftrangely diftorted. The
third canoe was filled with hogs and vegetables. As
they went along, the priells in the centre canoe fang
their hymns with great folemnity ; and after paddling
round the (hips, inilead of going on board as «ve ex-
pelled

nap

564 CaptaiK Cook*s third Voyagb

peeled, they mitde toward the fliorc at the beach were
we were ftationed.

As footi as 1 fa w them approaching, 1 ordered out
our little guard to receive the king j and Captain
Cook, perceiving that he was going on fliore, follow-
ed hiin> and arrived nearly at the ftime tinle. We con*
dufted them into the tent, where iliey had fcarcely been
fcatcdj when the king rofe up, and in a very graceful
"manner threw over the Captain's fliouldcrs the cloak he
himfeif wore, put a feathered helmet upon his head,
and a curious fan in his hand. He alfo fpread at his
feet five or fix oihcr cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful,
and of the greateft value. His attendants then brought
four very large ho. , with fugar-canes, cocoa-nuts,
and bread-fruit j and r part of the ceremony was
conduced hy the king's ex -Hanging names with Captain
Cook, which, amongft all the iflandcrs of the Pacific
Ocean, is ellcemed the flrongeft pledge of friendfliip.
A proceffion of priefts, with a venerable old perfonage
at their head, now appeared, followed by a long train
leading large hogs, and others carrying plantains, fweet
potatoes, &c. By the looks and geftures of Kairec-
keea, 1 immediately knew the old man to be the chief
cf the priefts before-mentioned, on whofe bounty we
had fo long fubfifted. He had a piece of red cloth in
his hands, which he wrapped round Captain Cook's
fliouldcrs, and afterwards prefented him a fmall pig in
the ufual form. A feat was then made for him, next
to the king, after which, Kaireekeea and his followers
began their ceremonies, Kaoo and the Chiefs joining in
^he rcfponfes.

As foon as the formalities of the meeting were over,
Capt. Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as
the pinnace would hold, on board the Refoiuiion*
They were received with every mark oi refpe<$l ; and

Capt.

Round the

R L tit

ioi

Capt. Cook, in return fpt the; feathere^d cloak, ptit ti linert
^irt on the king, and girt his own hanger round him^
"the ancient kaioo, and about half a do2en more old
chiefs, remained on more, and took i;p their abode at
the priefts Houifes. During all this time, not a canoe
was feen in the bay, and the natives either ke,pt w ithin
their huts, or Jay proftrate on tJ|ne grouid. Before the
king left the RefolutFon, ^apt Gook ubtained leave for
the natives to coi^e and trade with the (hips is ufual;
but the wom<:n, for vvliat reafon we could not learn j
ffill coiitinued under the cflfefts of the taboo j th.it is^
were forbidden to ftir from home, or to have any com-*
munication with lis.

The offenfive beliaviour of the natives having taken
away every apprehenfion of danger, we did not hefitate
to truft ourfeiyes amonglt them at a'l times, and in all
jfituations. The. o:tecers of both (tips went daily up
the country^ in fmall parties, or even fingly^ and fre-
tjuently remained out the whole uigtt. It would b<f
endlefs to recount all the mftunces of civility we received
upon thofe occafioris. Wherever we wenr$ the peo-
ple flocked about us,' eager to ctfjr every affiltaiice,
and highly gratified if their fcrvices were accepted.
Various little arts were pradlifcd to uttra^ our notice,
or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran
before, as we walked through their village, and (lop-
ped us at every opening, where there was room to'
form a R;roup for dancing. At one time, we were in-
vited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or fomit
other refreriiment under the (hade of their huts ; at
another, "Ve were featcd within a circle of young wa*
men, who exerted all their (kill to amufe us with fong^
and dances.

The fatisfadlion wc derived from their gentlencfs and

hofpitality, was, however, freqijcndy interrupted by

No. 22. S"ff their

566 CaptXim Gdc-i's THikD Voyaoi

lihcir pV6¥>ebffty to ftcaling. Sbme of theiJr moft ck-

Sfert fWittitricrs were one d-ay difcovercd urtdcr the (hijjs
riwin^ out tlie filling nails bf the (heiithlng^, which
they 'perforrAed very dextcroufly, "by tncans of a (hbirt
ftici, wrth a flint ftorie feed hi Vhe end of it. To put
k ftop to this jiraftice, which ctodan^e'red the Very ex-
tftchce of the vcffcls, we a't Srft fired fthali fhot at thfe
bifehdtrs, but they eafily got out of out reach by div-
ing tiTldcr the ihip s bottom. It was therefore fouhd
neceAary to make an example, by flogging one of them
x)n boird the Difcovery*

' On the 28th, died, William Watnian, k fea'min ot
the gunner's crew, an event which I mention the more
Jpkrticularfy, ^s death had hitherto been very rare
amohgft u^. He was an old man, and much reipefled
bn account of his attachment to Capt. C6bk» He had
formerly ferved as a marine 21 years ; after Which he
centered as a feainan on board the Resolution in 1772,
«hd ferved With Capt. Cook in his voyage towards the
feoTith Pofe. At their return, lie Was admitted into
•Greenwich Hbfpitkl, throtigh the Captain's intcrdl, at
the fame time iVith Tiimfelf ; and being refolved to fol-
id^ throughout the fortunes of his beni^faftdr, he alfo
Quitted it along with him, on his being appointed to the
command of the prefcnt 'Expedition. l!)Uring the voy-
age, he had frequently been fnbjeft to flight revci , and
Was ti convalefccnt when he came into the bay, where
^eiiig fent on Ihore^for a few days, he conceived himfelf
pcffeflly recovered, and, at his own defire, returnfecl
on board ; but the day folldwing, he had a paralytic
-fb-oke, which in two days catri^ed him off.

At the requcft of the king, he was btiried oh the
Morai, aad the ceremony was performed with proper
felieihtiim Old Kaoo and his brethren Were fpeftators,
^ad prcfervcd the moft jf^ofgUod tte&de a|id attention,

- wbilft

Round th^ WorlDv

SP?

whilft the fervice was reading. When we began to fill
up i-*c grave, thpy <ipproachcd it with great rcv^r^pce,
threw in a dc^d pig, ibme coco^-nuts, and plantaifis ;
and, for three nights afterward, they furroundcd it,
facrificing hogs, and performing their uftial ceremonies
of hvmns aud players, which contiQue4 liH ^\^ofk
daybreak.

fyx the head of the grave ,we ere^ed a ppft, an4
nailed it upon a fquare piece ojf board, oil which was
infcribed the name of the deceased, his ^ge, and th^
day of his death. This they promifed not to reinoye,
and we have no doubt but it will be fufrere4 to ren[iai|i
a!^ loi^g as the frail materials of whifzh it is m^de will
permit.

The ihip being in great yfant of fuel, the Captain
defired me on the ^d of Feb. to treat with th? prieft^,
for the purcha(e of the rail, that furrounded the top
of the Mor^i, I muil confefs, I had, at lirA, (ovoic
doubt about the decency of this propofal, and was ap-
prehen^iye, that eyep the bare mention of it might he
co^iidered, by them, as a piece of (hocking impiety.
In ;his, however, I fbynd myfclf n^jftakcn. Hot the
fmalleft furprize was e^prelTii^d at the application, and
the wood was readily given, even withom ftipul^ting
for any thing in returiu 'Whilft t]ic iailoFS we^e tak-
ing it away, I obfcrved one of: them carrying Qji" a
jc^rve^ iip?ge ; and, on furthes enquiry, found,^ that
they hc^d conveyed to the boats t|ie virhole Cemi ir<;le..
Though this was done in the prefeqce of the natives,
who h^d not (hewn any mark of refeatn)ien( a^t.it, hnt
had even aflifted them in the reippyal, I; t;hpn^|^t it
proper to fpeiik to Kaoo on the fubje^, who, %ppgared>
very indifferent about the matter, and oniy defired,^
that yf6 would re(tofe the centre image, which he car*
(led i^o qnfi of ;he prieit's hoiiJTes.

Tcrrcoboo.

1^8 Caftaii* Cook's third Voyac|i

• Tcrreeoboo, and his chiefs, had, for fome days part
\)tcn very inquifitive about the time of our departure.
This circumftance had excited in me a great curiofity
to know, what opfnion this people had formed of us,
and what were their ideas refpedling the caufe and ob-
jcfls of bur voyage. I took fome pains to fatisfy my-
fdf on thefc points; but 1 could never learn any thing
farther, than that they imagined we camQ from fome
pountry where provifions Had failed ; and that our vi-
fit to thein was merely for the purpofc of filling our
bellieSf Indeed, the meaqre appearance of fome of
the crew, "the hearty appetites with which we fat dpwn
'io their frefli provifions, and our great anxiety to pur-
cuafe, and carry off, as much as we were able, led
them, naturally enough, to fuch a conclufion. To
thefc, may be added, a circumftance which puzgled
them exceedingly, our having no women "with us;
together ^ith our quiet conduft, and un warlike ap-
pearance. It was ridiculous enough xo fee them ftrdk-
ing the fides, and patting the bellies, of the Tailors
([who were certainly much improved in the fleeknefs
bf their looks, during our ihort flay in the ifland), and
telling them partly by figns, and paitly by ^ords, that
it was time for them to go ; but if they would come
again the next bread-fruit feafon, they fliould be bet-
ter able to fupply their wants. We had now been fix-
teen days in the bay j and if our enormous cdnfump-
tion of hogs and vegetables be confidcred, it lieed not
be wondered, that they (hould wifli to fee us take our
leave. It is very probable, however, that Terreeoboo
had no other view, in his inquiries, at prefent, than a
delirc of making fufficient preparation for difmiffing us
with prefents, fuitable to the refpeft and kindnefs with
Vhich he had received us. For, on our telling him
W"e (l^ould leave the ifland on the next day but one, we
pbfcrved a fnrt of proclamation was immediately made,
ihrough the vil)a^e», to require the people to ^ing in
^* / • ijicir

wmm

Round the World.

509

their hogs, and vegetables, for the king to pr.cfent tq
theOronq, on his departure*

The next day, being fixed for our departure, Terree-r
oboo invited, Ciptaiii Coolc and myfclf to attend him,
on the 3 1, to the place, wliere Kaoo refidcd. O.i our
larrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of
cloth ; a vaft quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied
to the fibres of cocoa-nut huiks ; and a great number
of hatchets, and other pieces of iron-ware, that had
been got in barter from us. At a little diftancc from
thcfc, lay an immcnfe quantity of vegetables, of every
kind, and near them was a large herd of hog^. At
fird, we imagined the whole to be intended as a prefent
for us, till Kaireekeea informed me, thiit it was a gifr^
pr tribute, from the people of that d(lri6t to the King -,
and, accordingly, as foon as we were feated, they
brought all the bundles, and laid them fevcrally at Ter-
reboo's feet; fpreading out the cloth, and difplaying the-
feathers and iron- v are before him. The King feemed
much pleafed with this mark of their duty; and having
jfclcdled about a third part of the iron-ware, the fame
jproportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, thefe
were fet afide, by themfelves; and the remainder of the
cloth, together with all the hogs and vegetables, were
after ar'ds prefenied to Captain Cook and myfelf. We
were aftonirtied at the value and magnitude of this pre-
fent, which far exc':;eded every thing of the kind we had
Teen, either at the Friendly or Society Iflands. Boats
Were inimediately fent, to carry them on board; thie
large hogs were picked out, to be falted tor fea-ftorc;
and upwards of thirty fmaller pigs, and the vegetables,
were divided between the two crews.

The fame day, we quitted the Morai, and got the

tents arid afti^niomicaf inftrumenis on board. The

charm of the taboo was now removed ) and we had no

': - fooner

51Q Captain Cook's THIRD VoYAoB

(oooer left the place, than the natives ru(hed in, and
fearched eacerly about, in expedlatiun of finding {bme<
thing of value, that we might have left behind. As
I happened to ren^ain the laft on (hore, and waited for
the return of the boat« fever^l par(\e crowding about
me, and having ip^de ipelit down by than, be^an to
U^ment our reparation. It was, indeed, not without
difficulty, I was able to quit them. And here, I hupc
] nfiay be perniitted to relate a trifling occurrence, in
^hich I was principally concerned* Having had the
Qpmmand of the party on (bore, during the whole
time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of be-
$;oming better acquainted with the natives, and of be-
ing better known to therP) than thofe whofe duty re-
quired them to be generally on board. As i had every
reafon to be fatisfied with thei^ If indnefs, in general, fo
i capnot too often, npr too parti<;ularlyi cneniioa the uin*
bpujid^d $tQ4 Qonftant friendibip of t^eir prieft^.

On my pan, I fp^rcd no endeavours to conciliate
j^hfir a(f<^<^ions, and g^in tifieir dUcm ; and I had the
]good fortune to fucceed Co tar, that when the tiqae of
our departuj:? w^s m^de kiiown, J vf^ ftrongly fpii-
ipUe^ to remain behind, not withQ^t Qfterf pf |hc nipft
flattering kioid. WM&a \ excuCcd myCplf, by laying,
that Capt. Cook would not giv^ his confept, they prg-
pofed, that 1 fhould retire into the n^ounuini; ^ where,
they faid they would conceal me, till after me 4epArture
of the Ibips } and on my farther afluripg theiiQi, that
the Captain \yould not l^aye thebjiy without |0f, T^r-
recoj?op aad Kaoo waited upon Capt, Cop^^ wl^pCe Cphi
tjiey Cuppof^d I was, w^h a formal r^u^ tjjiijt J might
be left behind. The Captain, tp ay(^d givipg ^ pu^-
tive refufal, to an offer (o kindly intended, told them,
that he could not part with ipf, at thfl^t titx^, b^t that
|)^ihou|d return to the iHaiW Qc^t year, aa>4 would tl>fin
j504e,s|V9ur itp fettle tl^c mj^tiey: to tjjcir l^tJafa^^voA-

Early

Round the World.

$tt

Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and
failed out of the bay, with the Difcovery in company,
and were followed by a great number of canoes. Cap-
tain Cook's defign was tofinifli the fmvey of Owhyhcc,
before he vifited the other iflands, in hopes of meeting
with a road better Iheltered, than the bay we had juft
left ; and in cafe of not iucceeding here, he purpofed
to take a viev/ of the S. E. part of Mowee, where the
natives informed us we fhould find an excellent har-
bour.

Capt. Cook had calm weather for three fucceedins
much impeded his progrefs ; and, 'S

;nt gale came on, wli/ich
of the Rcfolmton. t*his

days, Whith

midnight, on the 8th, a violent

greatly damaged the fore-maft

circuttiftance, which proved fo fatal to Capt. C<^<Sk,

obliged him to return to Karakakooa Bay, and to iitke

up his old (lation there, till the dangers he had fuftslhied

could be properly repaired.

1 ' :i

.■ ., i !

>• ; . ;

nuMn

'\l!L

BOOK

|ti Captain Cook's tH^ao VoYjidk

.:qsp '

■'Jh ! }<:;

I '1

BOOK

iif.

CHAP.

IX. -

i^.

Death of Capt. Xiopk, with an account of the tranfac-
tions at the iflanci Owhyhce, fubftquent to the death

. of Capt. Cook — Capt. Gierke's departure frcm Owhy-
_heer-^Ar rival at Atooi — Final departure from the

r^Sandvyich iflancjs — »Di fcription of the naitives, and
treatment of their women.

AS the repairs of the Refolutioh requified fome time^
the allionomical apparatus was got aihore, and
the tent^ pitched on the morai, oi burying place, where
8 guard of a c urporai and fix marineb were Rationed.
The friendly correipondence was renewed With the
priefts, who, for the greater lecuriiy of the workm^i,
•ml their too's, tabooed the piace where the maft lay,
fticking thtir wands round it as before. But notwith-
ftanding this friendly behaviour f the pricfts, it was a
matter of great lurprile» that when the (hips came to
anchor, thigir rt ct puon was very diff.rcnt fiom what it
had been on their Brft arrival ; no fh ^uts, no buille,
no confufion, but a folitary bay, with only here and
there a canoe Healing ciofe along the Ihore. Fhefe
fufpicifius circumflances gave life to many co;je<5lures«
but whatever thefe were, things went on in their uiual
quiet courie tui the afternoon of the ijth.

towards

mmmtmmmmmm

Act

le tranfac-
» the death
cmOwhy-
from the
fives, and

fome time.
Chore, and
ace, where
J (Rationed.
With the
workman,
: mild lay.
It notwith-
s, it was a
ps came to
3m what it
no buftle,
r here and
re. Thefe
;orjcdlures<
their uiual

towards

'•w^"

TlielJEATH of CAiPTA.ii>r Coo

W^^v.

TJl AM' Tn ' ''"^ "^ i Ti''rir i •^/•^

^;i

U:i ^.a

W '

'3-,

^--»?#

P^>A% ■ ".^

'^>AO-^>x^\\v,

A^llNT C00KTfeB:RlJATVY14 I779

iff

J^*

PlSll^fPiUH--'!- ^' "^

'"•"tl'ST"*,-.

TlieDEATH o

RdttND THE World.

515

Towards the evening of that day, the officer who
commanded the watering party of the Difcovery, came
to inform me, that feveral chiefs had aflembled at the
wdl near the beach, driving away the natives, whom
he had hired to aAilt the uilors in rolling down the
calks to the Ihore. He told me, at the fame time, that
he thought their behaviour extremely fufpicious, and
that they meant to give him fome farther difturbance.
At his requeft, therefore, I fent a marine along with
him, but fuffered him to take only his fide arins.^ In a
(hort time the bfficer returned, and on his acquainting
me, that the natives bad armed themfelves wuh ftones,
and were grown very tumultous. I went myfelf to the
fpot, amended by a marine, with his mufquet. Seeing
us approach^ they threw away their ftones, and, on'my
fpeaking to fome of the chiefs, the mob '^ere drivea
away, and thofe who chofe it, were fulTercd to aflift in
fillkag the calks. Having left things quiet here, I weiif l^:
to meet Captain Cook, whom»I fa w coming alhore in tH*'
pinnace. I related to htm what had juft pafled ; and
he ordered me, in cafe of their beginning to throw .
ftones, or behave infolently, immediately to me i ba8
at the offenders. I accordingly gave orders to thift cor-
poral, CO have the pieces of the centinels load&drwith
M, inftead of ftpall (hot.

'Vt^

Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed
by a continual fire of mufquets, from the Difcoveifyii
which we obferved to be di celled at a canoe, that we
faw paddling toward the (bore, in gceat hafte, puFfuijii
by one of our fmall boats. ' We immediately concludecl
that the firing was owing to fome theft, and the CaptAtd
ordered me to follow him with a ifiacine'armed, and to
endeavour to fcize the people as they cjime on thoi*.
Accordingly we ran toward the plaOftij|htre we (Itip-
pofed the canoe Would land, but were tooiiie^ the peo*

■%

•'-•i

514 Captain Cook's third Voyaob

pie having quitted it, and made their efcape into* the
country befote our arrival.

We were at this time ignorant, that the goods had
been already rcftored j and as we thought it probable,
from the circumftances \^e had at firft obferved, that
they might be of importance, werit unwilling to relin-
qui(h pur hopes of recovering (hem. Having therefore
enquired of the natives, which way the people had fled,
we tullowed them, till it was near dark, when judging
ourfclves to be about three miles horn the tents, and
fufpefting, thiu the natives, who frecjuently encouraged
us in the purfuit, were amufmg us with falfe informa-
tions, we thought it in vain to continue our fcarch any
longer, and returned to the beach.

During bur abfence, a difference, of more ferious
and unpleafant nature, had happened. The officer,
who had been fent in the fmall boat, and was return-
ing on board, with the goods which had been reftored,
obferving the Captain and me engaged in the purfuit of
the oiTcndcrs, thought it his duty to fcizc the canoe,
which was left drawn up on the (hore. Unfortunately,
this canoe belonged to Pareea, who arriving, at the
fame moment, from on board the Difcovcry, claimed
his property, with many proteftations of his innocence.
The officer refufmg to give it up, and being joined by
the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting for the Cap-
tsun, a fcuffie enfucd, in which Pareea was knocked
down, by a violent blow on the head with an oar. The
natives, who were colleftcd about the fpot^ and had
hitherto been peaceable fpeftators, immediately at«
tacked our people, with fuch a (bower of ftones, as
forced them to retreat, with great precipitation, and
£wira off to a rock at fome diftancc from the ffiore.
The pinnace was immediately ranfackcd by the natives,
and but for the timely interpoHtion of Pareea, who

fcemed

Round the World.

5^$

feemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it
at the fame inftant, would foon have been entirely de-
moliihed. Having driven away the crowd, he made
figns to our people that they might come and take pof-
fcffion of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour
to get back the things which had been taken out of
it. After their departure, he followed them in his ca-
noe, with a midftiipman's cap, and fome other trifling
articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent con-
cern at what hsid happened, afked if the Orono Would
kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on
board the next day j On being affured, that he would
be well received, he joined nofes with the officers, iii
token of friendftiip, and paddled over to the village of
Kowrowa. " .

When the Captain was informed of what had paffed^
he expreffed much uneafmefs at it, I am afraid, faid he,
that thefe people will oblige us to ufe fome violent mea-
fures, for they muft not be left to imagine, that they
have gained an advantage over us. He immediately
gave orders, that every man and woman on board
(hould be turned out of the Ihip. As fooh as this or-
der was executed, I returned on (horej and our former
confidence in the natives being much abated, by the
events of the day, I polled a double guard on the mo-
ral, with orders to call me, if they faw any men lurk-
ing about the beach. At about eleven o'clock, five
iflanders were oblerved creeping round the bottom of
the moral ; they feemd very cautious in approaching us,
and at la(t finding themfelves difcovered, retired out
of fight. About midnight^ one of them venturing up
clofe to the obfervatory, the centinel fired over him >
on which the man fied, and we paffed the remainder of
the night without farther difturbance,

On the 14th of Feb. I went on board the Refolution

mmmm

s •■

$i6 Captain Cook's third Voyaoe

for the time-keeper, and in my way, was bailed by the
Difcovery, and informed, that their cutter had been
ftolen during the night, from the buoy where it was
moored. ^

When I arrived on board, I found the marines arm«
ing, and the Captain loading his double-barrelled gun.
Whilft I was relating to him what had happened to us
in the night, he interrupted me with fome eagernefs,
and acquainted me with the Jofs of the Difcovery's
cutter, and with the preparations he was. making' for
its recovery. It had been his ufual praftice, whenever
any thing of confequence was loft, to get the King, or
fome of the Chiefs on board, and keep thein as hof-
tages, till it was reftored. This method, which had
always been attended with fiiccefs, he meant to purfue
on the prefent occalion ; and, at the fame time, had
given orders to ftop all the caaoes that ftiould attempt
to leave the bay, with' an intention of feizing and de-f
ftroying them, if he could not recover the cutter by
peaceable means. Accordingly, the boats of both
fliips, well manned and armed, were ftation^d acrofs
the bay; and, before I left the (hip, fome great guns
had been fired at two large canqes, that were attempting
to. make their efcape.

It was between feven and eight o'clock when we
quitted th^ Ihip together ; the Captain in the pinnace,
having Mr. Philips and nine marines with him, and
jnyfelf in the fmall-'boat. The laft orders I received
from him were, to quiet the minds of the natives, on
ov»r fide of the bay» by aifuring them, they ftiould not
be hurt, ;o keep my people together, and to be on my
guard. We then parted, the Captain went towards
^owrowa, yrhere the king rcfidcd, and I proceeded to
.the beach. My firft care, on going aftiore, was to give
(Iflf^ 9fdef§ ^0 ^bc l^arincs 19 remain within the tent,

Round the World.

S^7

to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their
arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old
Kaoo, and the priefts, and explained to tlicm, as well
as I could, the objeft of the hoilile preparations, which
had exceedingly alarmed them. I found, that they
had already heard of the cutter's being ftoien, and I
affured them, that tho' the Captain was refolved to re-
cover it, and to punifli the authors of the theft, yet
that they, and the people of the village on this fide,
need not be under the fmalleft apprehenfion of fufFcr-
ing any evil from us. 1 defired the priefts to explain
this to the people, and tell them not to be alarmed,
but to remain peaceably and quiet. Kaoo afked me,
if their king was to be hurt ? I alTured him, he was
no: ; and both he and his brethren feemed fatisfied with
this affurance, * , . '

In the mean thne, the Captain having called off the
launch, which was ilationed at the N. point of the bay
and taken it along with him, went to Kowrowa, and
landed with the Lieut, and nine marines. He immedi-
ately marched into the village, w here he was received
with the ufual marks of rcfpc£l ; the people proftrat-
ing thcmfelves before him, and bringing their accuf-
tomed offerings of fmall pigs. Finding that their was
no fufpicion of his defign, his next Itep was to inquire
for the king, and his fons, who hud been his conftant
guefts on board the Rcfolution. In a ftiort time, the
boys returned, with the natives, who had been in
fearch of them, and immediately led the Captain to the
houfe where the king had llept. They found him jult
awoke from fleep, and after a (hort converfation about
the lofs of the cutter, from which the Captain was con-
vinced that he was in no wife piivy to it, he invited
him to return in the boat, and fpend the day on board
the Rcfolution. To this propofal the king readily con-

lentedi

51^

Captain Cook's third Voyaob

feiit^d, and immediately got up to atcompany him on
board.

Things were in this profperous train, the boys al-
ready in the pinnace, and the reft of the party having
advanced near the water-fide, when an elderly woman,
the mother of the boys and one of the king's favour-
ite wives, came after him, and with many tears and
entreaties, befought him not to go on board. At the
fame time, two Chiefs, who came along with her, laid
hold of him, and infixing that he ihould go no fartjier,
forced him to fit down. The natives, who were Col-
]c£ting in prodigious numbers along the (hore, began to
throng round the Captain and their King. In this fitu-
ation, the Lieut, of marines, obferving that his men
were huddled clofe together in the crowd, and thus in-
capabje of ufing thei^s^ms, if occafiop ihould require
it^ propofed to the ^^^n to draw them up along the
Tjocks, clofe to tht-miM't edge ; and the crowd rea-
dily making way for the^io pafs, they were drawn up
in a Ime, at the diftanpeof about 30 yards from the
place where the king wai fitting.

AU this time the oldi^tlig rieinained on the ground,
theflrongeft marks of terror and deje(5iion in his
tenence •, |be Captain not wilting to abandon the
^ed for which he had come on (hore, continuing to
^^rge him, in the moft preffing manner, to proceed ;
whilft» on the othfr hand, whenever the King appear-
ed inclined to follow him, the Chiefs, who ftood round
hiiYi) interpofedf.at fir ft with prayers and entreaties,
but afterwards, having recourfe to force and violence,
and infifted on his ftaying where he was. Capt. Cook
therefore finding, that the alarm had fpread too gene*
ralljr, and that it was in vain to think any longer of
getting him off, without bloodfhed, at laft gave up the
points obferving to Mr. Philips, that it would be impof-

' fible

Round the World.

5*9

fible to compel him to go on board, without the riik of
killing a great number of th\ inhabitants.

Though the enterprize wiich had carried Captain
Cook on (hore had now faiUd, and was abandoned,
yet his perfon did not appear \ o have been in the leaft
danger, till an accident happened, which gave a fatal
turn to the affair. The boats, which had been ftation-
ed acrofs the bay^ having iired at fome canoes, that
were attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a
Chief of the firS rank. The news of his death arrived
at the village where Captain Cook was, juit as he had
left the King, and was walking (lowly towards the
ihore. The ferment it occafioned was very confpicuousi
the women and children were immediately fent oif ;
and the men put on their war-mats, and armed them*
felves with Ipears and ilones. Oi^e of the natives^
having in his hands a ftone, and a long iron fpike
(which they call a Pahooa), came up to the Captain^
flouriihrng his weapon, by way of defiance, and threati
ening to throw the ftone. The Captain defired him to
defift i but the man perfifted in his infulence, he was at
length provoked to fire a load of fmall ihot. T he man
having his mat on, which the (hot were not able to pe-
netrate, this had no other effcdl than to irritate and cn-
' courage them. Several (tones were thrown at the ma-
rines ; and one of the Erees attempted, to (tab Mr. Phil-
lips with hib pahooa i but failed in the attempt* ancit rCr
ceived from him a blow with the but end of his muf-
quet. Captain Cook r»ow fired his iecond barrel, load-
ed with ball, and killed one of the for^moft of the iia-
tives. A general attack with (tones im- nediately follow-
ed, which was anfwered by a difcharge of mufquetry
from the marines, and the people in the boats. The
iflahders, contrary to the expectations of every onCi
flood the fire A^ith great ffrmnefs ; and before the ma'^
rioies bad time to reload, they broke in upon theni with

dreadful

-i

Hf^wuwwuiP

^Wr

'520 Captaih Cork's tHiRD VolTAci

dreadful Hioutsand yells. What followed was a fcene
of the uimoft horror and confufion*

Four of the marines were cut off among the. rocVs in
their retreat, and fell a facrifice to the fury of the ene-
my i three more were dangeroufly wounded ; and the
Lieutenant who had received a ftab between the fhoul-
ders with a Pahooa, having fortunately refetved his fire,
ihot the man who had wounded him juft as he was go-
ing to repeat his blow. Our unfortunate Commander,
the laft time he wasfeen diilindlly, wasl^anding at thi|
water's edgv", and calling out to the boats to ceafe firing,
and to pull in. If it be true, as fome of thofe who
were prefent have imagined, that the marines and boat-
men had fired without his orders, and that he was de-
firous of preventing any further bloodftied, it is not rm-
prcbable, that his humanity, on this occafion, proved
fatal to him. For it was remarked, that while lie fa-
ced the natives, none of them had offered him any vi-
olence, but that having fumed about, to give his or-
ders to the boats, he was dabbed in the back, and fell
with his face into the water. ,

On feeing him fall, the iflanders. fet up a great
Ihour, and his body was immediately dragged on (hore,
and (urrounded by the enemy, who fnatching the dag-
ger out of each other's hands, fhcwcd a favagc cagcr-
iiefs to have a (hare in his deilruftion.

Thus fell our great and excellent Commander ! After
a life of fo much dillinguiflied and fuccefsfuleiiter prize,
his death, as far as regards himfcif, cannc^4^ reck-
oned premature \ fince he lived to firtifti the grSt work
for which he fccms to have been defigned ; and was
rather removed from the enjoyment, than cut off from
the acquifition of glory. How fmcercly his lofs was
lamented, by thofe who had fo long fouiid their gene-
>. . • ral

ftouMD titi Would.

rai fecurity in his fkill and condiift, and eVery confola^
tion uiider their hardibips, iii his tenderncfs and huma<<
nity, it is neither neceffiiry nor poifible for ine to de^
fcribe ; much lefs Ihall I attempt to paint the horror
with which we Were (Iruck, and the univerfa! dejedfcioil
and difmay^ which folio cd fo dreadful and unexpe^ed
a calamity. The reader. 'Will not be difpleafed to turn
from fo (ad a fcene, to the contemplation of his cha-
ra£beir and virtdeSv wllilft Ikm flaying my lad tribute to
the memory of a desir and honoured friendj in a fhorc
hidory of his life and public fervices;

Gat)t. James Cook, was borh hear Whitby, in York-
ihire, in the year 1727 ; and^ at an early age^ was put
apprentice to a ihopkeer in a nelghbourmg village*
His iiatural inclination ndt having been confulted on
this occafi-m, he fobtt quitted the counter from difguft,
and baund himfelf for nine years, tb the mailer of a
vcflel in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the .
war in 1755^ be entered into the king's fervice, on
board the Eagj^^^^t that time comnlanded by Captain
Hamer, and afiSwards by Sir Hugh Pallifer, who foon
difcovcred his merir, and mtroduced him on the quar«
ter deck.

in the year iys^9 ^<^ ^"<i ^'^i mafter of the Nor-<
thumberland, the flag (hip of Lord Colville, who had
then the command of the fquadron Rationed on the
coall of Africa^ It was here a» I have heard him fay^
that during a hard winter, he flrll read Euclid, and
applied himfelf to the (ludy of Mathematics and Aflro-
nomy, without any other afliftan^c, than what a few
boc^s, and his own indu(try afforded him. At the
fame urae, and he thus found means to cultivate and
improv:: his mind, and to fupf^ the deficienciea of an
early education^ he was engaged in mod of the bM(f
and a^ive fcencs of the war in Aiaeiiea< At the
N Uuu fiegc

522 Captain CdoR't third Voyaoi

fif ge of Qjiiebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to
bis charge the execution of fervices, ot the fir ft im-
portance in the naval department. He piloted the
boats to the attack of Montgomerency ; conduced
the embarkation of the Heights of Abraham v examined
the pailage, and laid buoys for the fecurity of the
large Ihips in proceeding up the river.

The courage and addrefs with which lie acquitted
himfelf in thefe fervices, gained him the warm rriend-
(hipof Sir Charles Saunders and Ld Colville, who con-
tinued to patronize him, during the reft of their lives,
with the greateft zeal and sftiedlion. At the cpnclufion
of the war, he was appointed, through the recom-
mendation of Ld. Colvillc and Sir Hugh Pallifer, to the
furvey of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coaftsof
Newfoundland. In this employment he continued till
the year 1767, when he was fixed on by Sir Ed. Hawke,
to command an expedition to the South Seas, for the
purpofe of obferving the tranfit of Venus, and profe-
Cuiing difcoveries in that part of the globe.

The conftitution of his body was robuft, inured to
labour, and capable of undergoing the fevereft hard-
(hips. His ftomach bore, without difficulty, thecoarfeft
and moft ungrateful food. The qualities of his mind
were of the fame hardy, vigorous kind with thofe of
his body. His underftanding was ftrong and perfpica-
cious. His judgment, in v^hatever related to the fer-
vices he was engaged in, quick and fure. His dcfigns
were bold and manly ; and both in the conception, and
in the mode of execution, bore evident marks of a
■^reat original genius. His courage was cool and de-
'tcrmined, and accompanied with an admirable prefence
of mind in the moment of danger.

- Stich ¥^ere the out^nes of Capt* Cook's charade r

but

Round thb World.

5^3

but its moft diftinguilhtng fetture was, that unremitting
perfcverance in the puriuit of his obje£l, which was
not only fuperior to the oppofition of dangers, and the
preiTure of hardfhips, but even exempt from the wane
of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious
voyages in which he was engaged, his eagernefs and
a£^ivity were never in the leaft abat<^d. No incidental ,
temptation could detain him for a moment ; even thdfe
intervals of recreation, which fometimes uiiavoidably
occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing,
that perfons, who have experienced the fatigues of fer«
vice, will readily excufe, were fubmitted to by him
with a certain impatience, whenever they could not be
employed in making further provifioo for the more ef«
fcdual iproiecutioo of his defigns^

A.S a Navigator, his fervjccs were not perhaps lefs
fplendid ; certainly not lefs important and meritorious^
The method which he difcovcred, and fo fucccfsfuUy
purfued, of preferving the health of feamen, forms a
new asrea in navigation, and will tranfmit his name to
future ^^ns, amongd the frieods ^nd beoefaif^ors of m^n^
kindf

Thofe whe arc «onverfant in nayj^l hiftory, need not
^e told, at how dear a rate the advantages, which have
been fought, through the medium of long voyages at
(ea, have always been purchi<fed^ That dreadful dis-
order which is peculiar to this fervice, and whofe ra»
vages have marked the tracks of difcoveries with cir-
qumftances almod too (hocking to relate, mud, without
exerciiing an unwarrantable tyranny over the lives of
our feamen, have proved an infuperablc obilacle to the
profecution of fuch enterprizesl It was referved for
Captain Cook to (hew the world, by repeated trials,
that voyages might be plrotra£led to the unufual length
Qf three or evea four years^ ia unknown regions, and

nxidfer

■■'^i
^

|a4 Captain Cqok'i third Voyaoii

under every change and rigour of climate, not only
vrithout aiFe^ing the health, but even without diminiih-r
ing the probability of lile, in the fniaHeft degree. The
method he purfued has been fuUy explaine(i by him-
ieir, in a paper which was read before the Royal So-
ciety, in the year 1776, (Sir Godfrey Copley's gold
onedal was adjudged to him, un that occafion); and
whatever improvements the experience of the prcfent
voyage has fuggefted, are mentioned in their proper
places. ' ' : '

Haying given the moft faithful account I have been
able to colleft, both from my own obfervation, and the
relations of others, of the death of my ever honoured
friend, and alfo of his character and fervices ; I U •-
now leave his memory to the gratitude and admiration
pf pofterity ; accepting, with a melancholy fatisfaftion,
the honour, which the tofs of him hath procured me^
of feeing my name JQJied with his ; and of teftifying
that affeftion and relptft for his memory, which, whillk
he lived, it was no lefs my inclination, than niy con-
fiaut itudy, to £bew him. '

It having been already mentioned,- that four of the
jnarines were killed on the fpot. ITie reft, with Mr.
Philips, threw theriifelves iuto the water, and efcaped j
under coyer of a ^nar. fire from the boa^s. On this
occaiion, a remarkable inflance of gallant behaviour^
and of aire<ftion for his mf'.n, "was (hewn by that officer.
For he had fcarcely got into the boat, when, feeing
one of the marines, who was a bad fwimmer, firuggling
in the water, and ih danger of beiug taken by the ene-*
my, he immediately jumped into the fea to his afTid-
ance, though much wounded himfelf, and after re**'
ceiving a blow oh the head from a (lone, which had
pearly feiit him to the bottoni, he caught the man hf
iis hair and brought him fafe off. . t

Round the Worlp.

5*5

' Our people continued for fome time to keep up a
conftant fire from the boats, (which, during "the whole
tranfaftion, were not more than twenty yards from the
land) in order to afford their unfortunate conopanionsv
?in opportunity of cfcaphig. Thcfe efforts, ftcondcd!
by a few guns, fired at the fame time from the Refolu-
tion, having forced the natives at laft to retire, a fmall
boat, manned by five young midfhipman, pulled toward
the fliore, where they faw the' bodies, without any
figns ot life, hux judging it dangerous to attempt ta
bring thern off, with io fmall a force, :hey returned to
the (hips, leaving them in poffeflion of the iflanders,
with ten ftand of arms.

As foon as the general confternation, which the news
of this calamity occafioncd throughout both crews, had
a little fubfidcd, their attention was called to the party
at the Morai, where the mafts and fails were on iliorc,
with a guard of only fix marines. Being at the diftance
only of a fhort mile from the village of Kowrowa, wc
could fee diftindly an immencc crowd collected on the
fpot where "Captain Cook had juft before landed. Wc
heard the firing of the mufquetry, and could perceive
(bme extraordinary buftlein the multitude.

My firlV care, on hearing the mufquets fired, was,
to affure the people, who Virere affembled in confider*
able numbers, round the wall of our confecrated field,
and fcemcd equally at a lofs with ourf^lvcs how to ac-
count for what they had feen and heard, that they
fliould not be molefled ; and that, at all events, was de*
iirous of continuing on peaceable terms with them,
l^emained in this poflure, till the bojats had returned on
board, when Capt. Clerke, obferving, through his te-
iefcopc, that we were (urrounded by the natives, and
iipprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two
£our-pouQdei^ to be fired at them. Fortunately thefe

5«5

Capta?r Cook's third Voyaob

guns, though well aimed, did no mifchief, and yet gave
the natives a conviofive proof of their power. One of
the bails broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under
which a party of them were fitting ; and the other ftii»
vered a rock, that ftood in an exaft line with them. As
I had, juft before, given them the ilmngeft aflurances
of their fafety, I was exceedingly mortified ait this a^
of hoilility ; ai^d, to prevent a repetition of it, imme-
diately dilpatched a boat to acquaint Capt. Gierke, that,
ait prefent, I was on the mofl friendly terms with the
natives ; and that, if occaiion (hould hereafter arife
for altering my condu£^ towards them, I would hoifl a
jack, for him to afford us all the aifiilance in his power.

We expefted the return of the boat with the utmoft
impatience ; and after remaining a quarter of an hour
under the mod torturing anxiety and fufpenfe, our fears
were at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mr. Bligh,
with orders to ftrike the tents as quickly as poifiblei
and to fend the fails, tha^ were repairing on btoard.

Having placed the marines on the top of the moral,
which formed a ftrong poft, and left the command with
Mr. Bligh, giving him the moft pofitive directions to ad
entirely on the defenfive, I went on board the Difco^
very, in order to reprefent to Capt. Gierke the dan-
gerous fituation of our affairs. As foon as I quitted
the fpot, the natives began to annoy our people with
ftones ; and I had fcarcely reached the (hip, before |
heard the firing of the marines. I therefore returned
inftantly on (hore, where I found things growing every
moment more alarming. The natives were arming,
and putting on their mats, and their numbers increafed
v«ry faft.

They began at firft, to attack us with ftones* from
behind the walls of their iacloTurcsi and iading no re-
t ' fiftance

Round the World*

fiftance, they footi grew mox'e daring. A few Tcfolute
fellows having crept along the beach, under cover of
the rocks, fuddenly made their appearance at the fodt
of the morai, with a deiign of ftorming it on the iide
next the . ja, which was its only acc(!ffible part ; and
were not didodged, till after they had ftood a coh'^
fiderable number of (hot, and feen one of their party
fall.

The bravery of one of their aflailants well deferves to
be particularly mentioned. For having returned to
carry off his companion, amidft the fire oi our whole
party, a wound, which he received, made him quit the
body and retire ; but in a few minutes, he again ap-
peared, and being again wounded, was obliged a fecond
lime to retreat. At this moment I arrived at the mo-
rai, and faw him return the third time, bleeding and
faint ; and being informed of what had happened, I
forbid the foldiersto fire, and he \^as fuffered to carry
off his friend, >^hich he was juft able to perform, and
then fell down himfelf and expired.

About this time, a ftrong reinforcement from both
ibips, being landed, the natives retreated behind the
walls; which. giving me acccfs to our friendly priefts,
I fcnt one of them to endeavour to bring their country-
men to fome terras, nnd to propofe to them, that if they
would dclift from throwing ftones, I would not per-,
mit our men to iire. This truce was agreed to, and
we were fuffered to launch the maft, and carry off the
fails, and our -aflronomical apparatus, unmoleffed. An
'foon as we had quitted the Morai, they took poffeffion
of it, and fome of them threw a few (tones ; but with-
out dbiug us any ibifchief.

During this confultation, a vaftconcourfe df tiattves
dill kept poffuliion of the (hore, and ibme of them came

off

ITT

^iB Captain Code's THiRii VoyAge

off in canoes, and had the boldnefs to eome within pif-
tol (hot of the (hips^ and to infiilt us by various marks
of contempt and defiance. It was with great difHculty
we could reftrain the failors from the ufe of their arrns^
on ihefe occafions ; but as pacific meafures had been
refoived on, the canoes wcie fuffercdto return unmo-
lefted.

In purfuancc of this plan, it was cleterrained, that I
fliould proceed towards the (hore, with the boats of
bothihips, well manned and armed, with a vi'iw to bring
the natives to a parley, and, if poflible, to obtain a.
conference with fome of the Chiefs*

If this attempt fucceeded, I was to demand the dead
body of Captain Cook ; to threaten them with ven-
geance in cafe of a refufal ; but, by no means, to fire
unlefs attacked i and not to land on any account what-
ever.

I left the (hips about four in the afternoon. The
whole crowd of native;: was in motion; the women
and children retiring; the men putting on their \«ar
(Tiats, and arming themfelves with long fpears and dag-
gers ; and as foon as we were within reach, they be-
gan to throw (lones at us with flings, but without do-
ing us any mifchief. Concluding, therefore, that all
attempts to bring them to a parky would be in vain,
unlefs I iirft gave them fome ground for mutual confi-
dence ; I ordered the armed boats to (top, and went on
in the fmall boat, alone, with a white flag in my hand,
which, by a general cry of joy from the natives, I had
the fatisfadlion to find was inftantly underftood. The
women immediately returned from the fide of the hill,
whither they had retired; the men threw off their mats,
and all fat d«wn together by the water-fide„ extend-
ing their «rm3, and inviting me to come on Ihore.

Though

Round the World.

529

Though thU behaviour was very cxpreHiv^ of i^
friendly difpofition, yet I could not help entertaining
lome fuCpicions of its Sincerity. But when I faw Koah,
with a holdnefs and aflurance altogether unaccounta-<
ble, fwin^tning off towards the boat; with a white fl^g
in Tiis hand, I thought It neceilary to return this marl^
of confidence, arid ther'^forc received him into th*
boat, though armed ; a circumftance whiph did not
tend to leflen my fafpicions. I had long harboured m
unfavourable opinion of this nnan. The pried had aU
wavs told us, that he was of a nialicious difpofitio-n,
and no friejidl of ours ; and the repeated detedlions of
his treachery, had conviiced us of the' truth of their
reprefent^tions. Add to aU thi$, th^ (hock.in'g tranf-^
atSlions of the iriorning, in which he was (een &6t\ng a
principal P^^i made me feel the utmoft. horror atfind^
ing my felt To near him V and as he tafrw up to me with
feigned tears, and embraced me, I w as fo Ai4ftruftful of
his intention*, that I couldiioc help taking hold of the
point of the pahooah which he held in hishs^nd, and
tvirninjg it from me.

I tpld him I was convs to demand' the body of Capt
Cook, and to cleclare war againft them unlefs.
It was inftantly reftored. He aflur^d me thisihcAUd be
done as foon as poffible ; and, after begging of me
a piece of iron, with n)uch aflurance, as if nothing
extraordinary had happened, he leaped into the fe^,
arid Twaipamorc, calling out to hi?' countrymen that
we were all friends again. .

We waited near an hour, with great anxiety for his
iretum ;, dqring which tin^e, the red of the boats had
approached fo near thfrihore^ as to enter into converr
fation with A party of the natives, at ibme diftance
fron)us ; by whom they were j^\m\y given to undcr-
jl^and, that the body had been cut in pieces, and car-
No, 23. X X X lied

53^

Captain Cook's third Voyaoi<

ried up the country ; but of this circumllance I was"
not informed, tiU our return to the ihips.

I began now to exprefa feme impatience at Koah's
delay \ upon which the chiefb preiled me exceedingly
tD>come .ilhore, alTuring me, that if I would go my-
felf to their Wing, the body would certainly be reflored
to me. V^' Hen they found they cou^d not prevail on
me to land, they attempted, undei^ pretence of wiih-
ing to coA^ife with moreeafe, to decoy our boat a-
tnGngfome pocks) where they would have had it in
their power to^cut us off from the reft. It waa no dif^
iBcult matter to fee through thcfe artiBcea; and I was
'therefore ftrongly incliAedrto break ofF all further com-
nnunication with them> when a chiet came to us, who
was the particular friend* of Capt. Clerke, and of the
Officers of the Difcovery, on board which (hip he had
failed^ . \i hen welaft left the bay». intending to take his
paffage to Mouee. Fie told us, he came from the
king to acquaiat us,, that the body was carried up the
country, but that it (hould' be brousht to us the next
rr.p;hing. Ther^ appeared a great Stz\ of fmcerity in
his manner i and being a(ked if he told a falfchobd, he-
hooked his two fore-nogers together, which is under-
ftood amongft thefe iflanders as the (ign of truth ^. ia^
ibe ufe of which they are very icrupulous.

' As i was no V atalofs in what manner to proceed, V.
fcnt Mr. Vancouver to acquaint Capt. Clerke with alt
that had pafled ; 'that my opinion was, they meant not
to keep their word with us, and were fo far from being
ibrry at what had happened, that on the contrary, they
were full of (pirits and confidence on account of their
late fuccefs, and fought only to gain time, till they
could contrive fome fcheme for getting us into their
power. Mr. Vancouver came back with, orders for

tat to return oa board i having iirft given the natives:

- -•■.-■ • to

H^ u N D THB World.

to undedtand, that;, if the body was not brought the~
.next morning, the town Ihould be deHroyed*

When they faw that we were going off, they en-
flea vourcd to provoke us by the moft infulting and
contempeftuous geftute^. Some of our people faid,
they could di(lingui(h (everal of the natives parading
about in the clothei ef our unfortunate comrades.; and,
among theni^ a Oiief brandifliing Capt. Cook's haiv*
ger, and a woman holding the fcabbard. Indeed, therie
.can be no doubt, but that our behaviour had given
>them a mean opinion of our courage ; for thcv could
jiave but little notion ^f the motives of huma.nity tha;t
wdiredcd it. '

In conirequence oF ihc report 1 made tto Captain
Clerkc, of what I conceived to be the ptefcnt difppfi-
tion of the natives, the moft effc^ual mt-ihoils were
Ntaken to guard againft any . attack. the^r might inalkem
the night. The boats were moored with .top.chains ^
additional' Tentinels were pofted on both Ihips ; and
^uard- boars were ftationed to row round them, ih oi;-
der to prevent the natives :i&om cutting the cables.
During the night we obierved a prodigious number 6f *
lights on the Hills, which made us imagine^ th£.y wer/e
removing their effcfts back into the country, in-confe-
(Quence of our threats. But I rather believe them to
have been the facrifices that were perfarraihg on ac-
itoutit of the war, in which they imagined themfelves
.about to be engaged.; and moft probably the bodiqB
'cf our flain countrymen were, at that time buriv-

We remained the whole night undiftarl)ed> ^cept
%y the howlingsind lamentations Whieh were heard on
ilAiore i and earl^ the next morning, Koah came along-*
^4c the .Refolution, with aprefent to me. I have men-

vtioneti

532 Captain Cook's third Voyaob'

■ f •- ■- . ■ ■ ■ ■ ■.

tioned before, that I ^vas fuppQfcd,-.by jthe natives, to
be the foft of the Captain ; and as he, in his life-time,
had always faffcred them to believe it, I was prob^ibly
confidered as the chief, after his death. As foon as I
camfe ondiick, I qucftioned him about the body ; and,
on his returning me nothing but evaiivc anfwcrs, I re-
fuf6d to accept his prefents, and was going to difmifs
hint', with fome expreiTions of anger and i^cfentment,
had not Capt. Clcrkc, judged it bed, at all events, to
keep up the app'earance of friendfhip, and thought it
more proper, that he Ihould be treated with the ufual
tefpeft. He was exceedingly urgent with us to go on
iliorc, laying all the blame of the detention of the bo-
dies on the other chiefs ; and a^Turing us, that every
thing might be fettled to our fatisfaftion, by. a pcrfon-
al interview with their king.. However, hi^ coudu(5l
Was too fufpicious to make it prudent to pomply with
this requell ; .and he left us. . .

The grcateft part of the day was taken up, in getting
the fore-maft into a proper fituation on deck, for the
carpenters to work upon itj and in ipfiking the neceffary
alterations in the Commiffion of the officcrs.^ The
command of the expedition having devolved on Capt.
Clerkc, he removed on board the Refolution, appoint-
ed Lieut. Gdre to be Capti of the Difcovery, and pro-
moted Mr.Hervey, araidfliipman, to thgi Vacant Lieu-
tenancy. ^ Duringrthe Whole day. We nijrtet wy:h t»o iA-
terruption from the tiattves j and at pight; the launch
^as again moored with, 1 top- ch^iiii, and guard-bpatS;
ilationed round both fiiip&^^ before.

^bout eight o'clock* .it being very dark, a canofc
was heard paddling towards. tl^e fhip, and. as foon as it
VyiS.feeD, both the centjnels on deck fired into it. Ther?
•Were two perfons in tbc canoe, and they immediately
irpared but Tifinecj (which was the way in which they
'"■ pronounced

R o u N D THE World.

533

pronounced my name) and faid they were friendsi
and had fomething fot m6 belonging to tjie Captain.
When they came on bpiird, they threw themfclyes at
our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Lucki-
ly ncithei; of them >^as hurt^ notwithltanding tiie balU
of both pieces had gone thro* tl^e c^'rtoc* One of them
after the Ipfs of the Orotio told us> that he Had brought
a part of his body. He then prefented to us a ^mall
bundle Wrapped up in cloth, which he brought und«r ,
his arm ; and it is impoflible tb defcribc th^horrdr
v/hich feiiKed us, on .finding in ir, a piece of human
flefti, about nine or t^n pounds weight. 'I'his, hd
faid, was all that remained of the body ^ that the reft
Was cut to pieces, atid burnt ; but that the head and
all the bones, except what belonged to the trunks
were in the pofleflioh of their king, and the other Ea«
and what we faw had been allotted to Kabo, the

rees

chief of the priefts, to be made ufe of in feme religi*
ous ceremony ; and that he had fcnt it as a proof 0f
his innocence and attachment to us.

.», ■ . ' ^ ■ . ■ •

This afforded iih oppottunity of informing ourfelves^
whether they were cannibals ; and we did not i^gle^i
it. We lirft trfcd, by many indlreft queftioni, put , t<i
each of them a^art, to learn in wha^ manner the reft ^i
the bodies had been difpofed of; aud finding them V'ei'f
Ct)nftant in one (tory, that after the flefli had been cul'
off, it had all been burnt 5 we at laft put the dircft
queftion. Whether they had not eat fome of it ? Xhey
ifnmedt&ttAy (hewed as much hqrtor at the idea, as «»
Buropean \\ould have' done ; and aiked, very n&tu<^
rally, if that was the ci»ftbm amungft us I They af-*
forwards aik^d us, with j^reat earn^^neii^ ai»d aptp^QHt
apprfehehfion, ' When the Diroho/ would cppic agaio7
and what hib \^6urd do^o thetn oh his return p' ^tia
fame fame inquiry was frequently made afterward^ by
ocher^ i and this idea agrees with the generaJi tenour of

_ ' their

f^4- GAKtjMN P00K*l THIRD VoTAOS

tlieir conduA towtrds htm, ivhich (hewed, that they
ccinfidered him a§ t^ being ot a fupertor nature.

We pfeiled our two friendly vifitort to remain on
board cill morrting, but io vain. They told us, that,
if thta tranfa^on (hmid come to the knowledge of
the king or chiefa, it might be attended with the moft
fatal confequences to the whole fociety (the priefta) io
order to prevent whicli^ they had been obliged to come
off to US in the dark, and chat the fame precaution
would be neceflary in returning on fhorc. They in-
formed UB farther thit the chiefs were eager to revenge
the deatlw of their epuntrynnen i and, 'particularly*
cautioned us asainil trufting Koah, whoy they faid,
was our mortd and implacable enemy » and defired
nothing more ardently, than an opportunity of fight<-
ing us t to which the blowing of fome conchs,^we had
heard in the morning, was tsmtil ap a challenge t<)
fight uf. : .

I W$ learned from thefe men, that ly of their cou n»
trymea had been killed in ^e firita£iion at Kuwrpwa,
of whom five were chiefs ^ and that Xaneena and hia
bMther, our very particular friends, were unfortunately
of that number. Eight, they (aid, wdte killed at the
oy^ryatory, thf|}e q^ whom were #1ia of the fit^

If About eleven }0^<^lo«:||f our ^woic^endi left us, an4
to(^ ^h!t^ pr(^«^iiiii9n,,;|otldefire, that our guard-boa^
might a^teqd fh<^, tili: tbey> had pa0ed die Difcovcry,
left they (hould agi^in be^ed^upon, which might alarq;^
their countr^mcq on (bore^and cxpofe them to the
*daivgef oi^^eioigdircpvcred* This requeft was com?
piijed with, and we,; hiMl, the (gtiafadtion to findf tha(
>^^y :gPt lafe to (here.

Round the World.

535

an4
boa^

larfii
I che
:oin?

On the i6th about noon^ finding us petfift in our in-
activity, great bodies of the natives, after blowing their
coochs, and ufing every mode of defiance, inched off,
over the hilli, and never appeared afterwards. Theft ^
however, who remained, were not the lefs daring and
infolent. One man had the audacity to come within
mufquet (hot, a-head of the (hip, and after flinging fe*'
veral (tones at us, he waved the Captain's hat over his
head, whilft his countrymen were exuhin^, and encou-
raging hi» boldnefs. Our people were all m a flame at
this infult, and coming in a body on the quarter deck,
begged they might no longer be dbligedi to put up with
repeated provocations, and requefted me to obtain per-
miffiOh for them, from Capt. Gierke, to avail themfetves
of the fiift fair occafion of revenging the death of their
commander. On my. acquainting nim with what wai
paiBng, he gave orders for fome great guns to be Bred
at the natives on (hore, and promifed the crew, thfttif
they (houldmeet with any moleitation at the watering-
place the next day, they ihould then l>e left at liberty to
chaftiifi them»

It IS ibmethiBg remarkable, that before we cotild
bring out guns to bear,, the natives had flip

SeAed our intehtions, from the (lir they faw in the
lip, and had retired behind their houfes and wdll^.
We were therefore obliged to fire, in fome meafurc,
at random^ notwithftanding which, our (hot produced
the effects that could have been defired. For, fooii
after, we faw Koah paddling towards us, with extreme
haftc, and on his arrival, we learnei!,. that fome people
had been killed, and ambngft the reft, Maiha-maina,
a principal chief, and a near relation of the king.

Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys (warn oft
from the morai towards the (hips, having each a long
fpcar in^s hand, and after they had approached pret-
ty uearf. they bcgati^^to chant a fong, in averyfolemu

manner J

$$S Captain Cook's third Voyaob

manner ; the fubjefl of which, from their often men-
tioning the word Orono, and pointing to the village
wlicr^ Captain Cook Was killed; we concluded to be
jhe late calamitous difart'er. Having fung in plaintive
ftraifl for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the
>xrhole.df which time they remained in the water, they
wciit on board the Dilcovery, and delivered their
ifjpearS ; and after making a (hort (lay, returned on
fnore. Who fent them, or what was the object 9f this
ccrcpipny, we were never able to learn.

- At nigh!, the ufual precautions were taken fpr the fe-
purityor the ftiips > and. as foon as it was dark, our
two mends, who had vlfifed us the night befoi^c, came
-pff again. They aflured us, that though tbcciTefts of
pur great guns, this afternoon^ had terrified the chiefs
cxcepdingly, they had by no mcanis laid afide' their
iioftile intei^tigns, and advifed us to be always on our

The next morning the boats of both (hips were fent
aihpre for water, and the Difcovery was warped clofe
to tbq btjach, in order to cover their fervice. We foon
found, that the intelligence which the priefls had fent
lis, was not without foundation j and that the natives
ivere rcfoivcd to take every opportunity of annoying
as, when it could be dqnewithoi^t much rifk. In ni^,
our people were fo taken up in attending to their own
fafety, that, they employed the whole forenoon in
filling only brie top of water. As it was therefore im-
poffibleto perform this fervice, tjll their afli^ilants were
driven to greater diftance, the Difcovery was ordered
to diflo^ge them, with her great guns j which being
<^fted by a feW'difchi^rges, the hien jan^pd without
mplejlation. However, the natives loon after made
thcjr! appearance again ; and it T^as npw fciuiid abfo-
lutely ncccflary to burn down fome few flraggling houfes
'■".''•:■ * near

Round the World.

SS7

near a wall, behind which they had taken (hcltcr. la
executing thcfe orders, I am forry to a< 1, that our peo-
ple were hurried into aAs of unncceflary cruelty and
devaftation ; altho' fomething ought certainly to be al-
lowed to their refentraent of the repeated infults, and
contcupeftuous behaviour, of the iflanders, and to
the natural defire of revenging the lofs of their Com-
mander.

I have already mentioned, that orders had been gi-'
ven to burn only a few draggling huts, which afforded
fliclter to the natives. We were therefore a good deal
furprifed to fee the whole village on fire j End before a
boat, that was fent to ftop the progrefs of the mlf-
chief, could reach the (bore, the houfes of our old
and conftant friends, the priefts, were all in flames.
I cannot enough lament the illnefs that confined me oa
board this day. The priefts had always been under
my proteftion ; and, unluckily, the officers who were
on duty, having been feldom on Ihore at the morai,
were not much acquainted with the circumftances qi
the place. Had I been prefent myfelf, I might proba-
bly hav^ been the means of faving their little ibciety,
from deftruAion.

Several of the natives were fliot in making their
efcape from the flames j and our people cut oiF the
heads of two of the natives, and brought them on
board. '

'At "this time an elderly man was taken prtfoner,
bound, and fent on board in the boat with the heads of
hfs two companions. I never faw horror fo ftrongly
pifturcd, as in the* face of this man, nor fo violent a
tranfition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied,
and told he might go away in fafety. He fliewcd us he
did not want gratitude, as he frequently afterwards re-

^ Y y -y turned

5.5^

Captain Cook's third Voyage

turned with prefents of provifions, and alfo did us other
fcrvices. .

SoOn after the village was deftroycd, we faw, com-
ing down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty
boys, holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs,
and plantains in their hands. I knew not how it hap-
pened, that this peiAceful embaffy, as foon as they were
within reach, received the fire of a party of our men.
This, however, did not ftop them. They continued
their proccffioij, and the officer on duty came up, ia
time, to prevent a f^cond difcharge. As they ap-
proached nearer, it was found to be our much efteem-
cd friend Kaireekeea, the prieft, who had fled on our
fey ing fire to the village, and had now returned, and
defired to be fent on board the Refolution*

When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave
and thoughtful. We endeavoured to make hira undcr-
ftand the necefTity we were under of fetting fire to the
village, by which his houfe, and thofc of his brethren,
were unintentionally confumed. He expoiiulated a lit-
tle with us on our want of friendfhip, and on our in-
gratitude. And ihdeed, it was not till now, that we
learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done
them. He told us, that relying on the promifes I
had made them, and on the aflurances they had after-
wards received from the men, who had brought us the
remains of Capt. Cook, they had not removed their cf-
fefts back into the country, with the reft of the inha-
bitants, but had put every thing that was valuable of
their o^^^^, as well as what they add collefted from us,
into a houfe clofe to themorai, where they had the mor*
tification to fee it all fet on fire by us.

On coming on board, he had fe .n the heads of hisj
couutrymen, lying on the deck, at which he was ex-
ceedingly

IS Other

7, corn-
twenty
boughs,
it hap-
ey were
)ur men.
mtinued
: up, in
hey ap-
i efteem-
. on our
ned, and

\y gravt
m under-
re to the
jrethren,
ted a lit-
n our in '
that we
lad done
romifes I
ad after-
It us the
their ef-
he inha-
uable of
frona us,
the mor-

ds of his
was ex-
ceedingly

RotJMD tHB World.

SS'^

cecdingly (hocked, and defired, with great earneftnefs,
that they might be thrown overboard. This requeft
Captain Gierke immediately ordered to be corapUed
with.

In the evening, the watering party returned oh
board, having met with no farther interruption. We
paffed a gloomy night ; the cries and lamentations wc
heard on fliore being far more dreadful than ever.
Our only confolation was, the hope that we fhould
haye no occafion, in future, for a repetition of fuch
fev£rities. .

It 13 very extraordinary, that amidft all thefe diftur-
bances, the women of the ifland, who were on board,
never OiTered to leave us, rior difcovered the fmalleft
apprehenfions either for themfelves or their friends on
fliore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that
fome of them, who were on deck when the town was
in flames, feemed to admire the fight, and cried out,
that it was maitai, or very fine.

The next morning, Koah came ofF as ufual to the
fliips. As there exifted no longer any neceffity for
keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my
own way. When he approached towards the fide of
the fliip, finging his fong, and offering me a hog, and
fome plantains, I ordered him to kee^^ oif, cautioning
him never to appear again without Capt. Cook's bones,
lefl: hi., life fliould pay the forfeit of his frequent breach
of promife. He did not appear much mortified with
this reception, but went immediately on Ihore, and
joined a party of his countrymen, who were pelting the
watcrers with ftones.

The natives bdng at lafl convinced that it was not
the want of ability to ^uni{h thcm^ which had hither-
to

IPP

560 Captain Cook's third Voyage

to made us tolerate their provocations, defifted from
giving us further moleftation ; and, in the evening-,
a chief called Eappo, who had feldom vifited us, but
whom we knew to be a man of the very firil confc-
quence, came with prefents from the king to fue for
peace. The prefents were received and he was dif-
milTed with the fame anfvver which had before been
given, that until the remains of Capt. Cook, Ihoukl
be reftored, no peace would be granted. We learned
from this pcrfon, that the flefli of all the bodies of our
people, together with the bones of the trunks, had
been burnt ; that the limb bones of the marines had
been- divided amongft the inferior chiefs; and that thofe
of Capt. Cook, had been difpofed of in the following
manner: the head to a great chief, called Kahoo-opeon ;
the hair to Mahia-mahia; and the legs, thighs, and
arms, to the king. i\ ft er it was dark, many of the
inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables \
and we alfo received two large prefents of the fame ar-
ticles from Kaireekeea.

The igih was chiefly taken up in fending and re-
ceiving the meflages which paffed between Capt. Gierke
and the king. Eappo was very prcfling, that one of
our officers Ihould go on fliore ; and, in the mean
time, offered to remain an hodage on board. This re-
queft, however, it was not thought proper to comply
with; and he left us with a promife of bringing the
bones th^ next day. At the beach, the waterers did
not meet with the leaft qppofition from the natives;
who, notwithflanding our cautious behaviour, came a-
mongft us again, without the fmalleft appearance 0^
diffidence or apprehenfion.

About ten in the morning of the aoth, we faw a
great number of people dtfcending the hill, v/hich is
over the beach, in a kind of procclTion, each man

czirrying

Round the World.

561

carrying a fugar-cane on his two (boulders, and bread-
fruit, taro, and plantains in bis hand. They were pre-
ceded by two drummers; who, when they came to the
water-fide, fat down by a white' flag, and began to beat
their drums, while thofe who had tollowed them, ad-
vanced, one by one ; and, having depofited the pre-
fcuts they had brought, retired in the fame order.
Soon after, Eappo came in fight, in his long feathered
cloak, bearing fomething with great folemnity in his
hands; and- having placed himfelf on a rock, he made
figns for a boat to be fent him.

Capt Gierke conjecturing that he had brought the
bones of Capt. Cook, which proved to be the faCl,
went himfelf in the pinnace to receive themj and or-
dered me to attend them in the cutter. When we ar-
rived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and
dehvered to theCaptain the bones wrapped up in a large
quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a fpotted
cloak of black and white feathers. -He afterwards at-
tended us to the Refolution ; but could not be pre-
vailed on to go on board; probably not choofing, from
a fenfe of decencyj to be prefent at the opening of the
bundle. We found in it both the hands of Capt. Cook
entire, which were well known from a remarkable fear
on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore-,
finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the
^ikuU, but with the fcalp feparated from it, and the
bones that form the face wanting ; the fcalp, with the
hair upon it cut ihort, and the ears adhering to it ; the
bones of both arms, with the Jkin of the fore-arms
hanging to them; the thigh and leg-bones joined toge-
ther, but without the feet. The ligaments of the
joints entire ; and the whole bore evident marks of
having been in the fire, except the hands, which had
the flefli left upon them, and were cut in feveral places,
ftnd cram^led with fait, apparently with an intention of

prefer ving

li '1

"»""•'"

$6i Captain Cook's third Voyage

prefcrving jhcm. The fcalp had a cut in the back part
of it, but the (kull was free from any ffa<5lure. The
lower jaw, which was wanting, Eappo toid us, had
been feized by a chief, and that the king was uling
every means to recover it.

The next morning (Sunday) Eappo and the king's
fon came on board, and brought with them the re-
maining bones of Cipt. Cook, and the barrels of
hii gun, his fhoes, and other triflt:s that belonged to
him. Eappo took great pains to convince us, that the
king, Maiha-maiha and himfelf, were mod heartily de-
firous of peace; that they had given the moft con-
vincing proof ot it in their power i and that they had
been prevented from giving it fooner, by the other
chiefs, many of them were dill our enemies. He la*
mented with the greateft forrow, the death of fix chiefs
we had killed, one of whom was our beft friend. Tha
cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's people;
very probably in levenge for the blow that was given
him; and that it was broken up the next day.

Nothing now remained, but to perform the lad offices
to our great and unfortunate comnriander. Eappo was
difmiiled with orders t® taboo all the bay ; and, in the
afternoor, the bones having been put into a coffin, and
the fervice read over them, they were committed to
the deep with the ufual military honours. What our
feelings were on this occafion, I leave the world to con-
ceive, thofe w ho were prefent know, that it is not in my
power to cxprcfs them.

During the forenoon of the 2zd, not a canoe wai
feen paddling in the bay ; the taboo, which Eappo had
laid on it the day before, at our requeft, not being yet
taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We af*
fured him, that we were now entirely fattfified i and (bac

Round the World.

5^3

ck part
The

IS, had
i uiing

king's
the re-
rels of
iged to
;hat the
tily de-
lft con-
ley had
s other

Helae
X chiefs
. The
people }
IS given

t offices
)po was
, in the
in, and
tted to
hat our
to con-
tin my

oe wai
>po had
ingyet
Wcaf*
nd (hac

as the Orono was buried^ all the remembrance of what
had pafTed was buried with him. We afterwards de-
fired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known
ihat the people might bring their provifions as ufual.
The Ihipe were foon furroundcd with canoes, and
many of the chiefs came on board, exprefling great for-
row, at what had happened, and their fatisfaftion at our
reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not vi-
fil us, fent prefents of large hogs, and other provilions,
Amongft the reft came the old treacherous Koah, but
was refufed admittance.

As we had now every thing ready for fea, Captain
Clerke imagining, that, if the news of our proceedings
(hould reach the iflands to leeward before us, it might
have a very bad effecft, gave ord/srs to unmoor. About
*»ight in the evening we difnXiiTcd aU the natives ; and
Eappo, and the friendly Kaireekcea, took an affedlion-
ate leave of us. We immediately wei^ihed, and ftood
out of the bay. The natives were colleded on the
(horc in great numbers j and, as we' pafled along, re^^
ceived our laft farewels, with every mark of aSftioil
and good-will.

His firft objeA was to fearch for an harbour on the S.
E. fide of Mowce. Being driven, however, by the
^i^ftcrly winds and current, he was not able to gain ir.
bm, on the ift of March, anchored again (ff theifland
of Atooi. The great bufinefs there was to procure war-
ier and provifions i but the party employed on (horc
for this purpofe, were in the moft imminent danger.
Nothing but the moderation and management of Lieut.
King could have prevented a repetition of the cataftfo«r
pheof Owhyhee. Harmony however was reftored bf
the interpc"" ion of the chiefs, who attributed this hof>'
tile ciicumitance- to a want of fubordi nation, which
waft the aatural cooiequeAce of the ^ivil diflentio»^

which

5^4

Captain Cook's third Voyage

^hich then reigned in the iflands, and which were occa-
fionedby the goats which Gapt. CooV had Icfc at Once-
heow, and which were all deftroyed in the conteft.
On the 8th, Capt. Gierke failed from Atooi, and anchored
the fame afternoon off Oneeheow. On the 12th, he fi-
nally left thefe iflands.

We have already. given various particulars of the
Sandwich Iflands, in our defcription of the ifland of
Atooi. It will be now proper to add a few obfevva-
tions. — ^They confift of a group of 1 1 in number, ex-
tending in lat. from 18 deg. 54 min. to 22 deg. 15 min.
North; and in long, from 199 deg. 36 min. to 205
deg. to 206 min. E. They were named the Sandwich
Iflands by Capt. Cook, in honour of the Earl of Sand-
wich, under whofe aufpices this voyage was underta-
ken. The climate here differs very little from that of
the Weft India iflands, which lie in the fame latitude.
Whether they are fubjc^l: to the fame violent winds
and hurricanes could not be difcovered, as the fhips
were not there in ai-^y of the ftormy months ; but Cap-
tain King thinks it probable, that, in this refpe6i, they
referable the Society and Friendly Iflands, which are,
in a great meafure, free from thefe dreadful vifitations.

Of the qufldrupedes in thefe iflands, the only fort
worthy of cbfervation are the dogs, and that merely
on account of the manner iri which they are treated
here ; a manner fo different from the Europeans.
Thefe dogs are about the fize of the common turnfpit ;
exceedingly fluggifli in their nature ; which may be
more owing to the manner in which they are treated,
than to their natural difpofiiion. They are, in gene-
ral, fed, and left to herd, with the hogs ; nor did
there appear one inftance in which a dog was made a
companion in the manner we do in Europe. Indeed,
the cultom of eating them i$ an infup^rable bar to

theit

Round the World.

5S5

itations.

their admifTion into fociety ; and as there iire are nei«
ther beads of prey in rhc iflands, nor objefts of chace,
it is probable, that the focial qualities of the dog, his
fidelity, attachment, and fagacity, will remain unknown
to the natives.

With refpc^l to vegetables, the mod remarkable w^rc
feveral large roots brought to the fliips at Oneehcow.
They were of a brown colour, fhaped like a yam, and
from fix to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it
yields in great abundance, is very fweet, and of a plca-
fant tafte, and was found to be an excellent fubftitutc
for fugar. The natives are very fond of it, and ufe it .
as an article of their common diet ; and our people
alio found it very palatable and wholefome. It was
fuppofed to be the root of fome kind of fern.

The natives of thefe iflands, are, in general, above
the middle fize, and well made ; they walk very grace-
fully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing great fa-
tigue ; though, upon the whole, the men are fome what-
inferior, in point of ftrength and aAivity, to the friend-
ly illanders, and the women lefs delicately limbed than
thofe of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather darker
than that of the Otaheitcans, and they are not altoge-
ther fo handfome a people. However, many of boih
fexes had fine open countenances} and the women in
particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a fweetucfs
and fenfibility of look, which rendered them very en-
gaging. , Theii hair is of a brownifti black, and nei-.
ther uniformly ftraight, like that of the Indians in A-
merica, nor uniformly curling, as among the African
negroes, but varying, in this rcfpeft, like the hair of
Europeans. One flriking peculiarity, in the features
of every part of this great nation, I do not remember
to have fcen any where mentioned ; which is, that,
even in the handfomefl faces, there is always a ful-

Z z 2 nefs

$66 Captain Cook's third Voyao*

nefs of the noftril, without any flatnefs or fpreading of
the nofe, that diftingiiifhes them from Europeans. It
is not improbable that this may be the cfFcft of their
ufual mode of falutation, which is performed by prcfs-
ing the ends of their nofes together.

Notwithflanding the irreparable lofs we fiiffcred from
the fudden refentment and violence of the people, yet,
m juflice to their general conduft, it muft be acknow-
ledged, that they are of the moft miM and affeftionate
difpofition ; equally remote from the extreme levity and
ficklenefs of the Otahciteans, and the diftam gravity
and referve of the inhabitants of the- Friendly Iflands.
They appear to live in the utmoft harmony and friend-
ihip with one another. The women, who had chil-
dren, were remarkable for their tender and conftant
attention to them ; and the men would often lend their
aflirtance in tliofc domcftic offices, with a willingnefs
that does credit to thcirifeelings.

It muft, however, be obferved, that they fall very
fliort ot the other iflandcrs, in that beft teft of civiliza-
tion, the refptdls paid to the women. Here they are
not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the
men, but the beft forts of food arc tabooed, or for-
bidden thtm. They are not allowed to cat pork, tur-
tle, fcveral kinds of filh, and fome fpecies of the plan-
tains ; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible
beating, for having eaten, on board our fliip, one of
thcfe interdifted articles. In their domeftic life, they
appear to live almoft entirely by themfelves, and though
we did not obferve any inftances of perfonal ill treat-
ment, yet it was evident they had little regard or at-
tention paid them.

The great hoipitality and kindnefs, with which we
were received by them, have been frequently remark-
ed j

Round the World.

5^7

cd } and indeed they make the principal part of ouir
tianfaftions with them. Whenever we came on fliore,
there was a conftant ftruggle who ftiould be mofl for-
ward in making us little prefents, bringing rcfreftiments,
or (hewing fome other mark of their rcfpcdl. The old
people never failed of receiving us with tears of joy ;
feemcd highly^ gratified, with being allowed to touch
ps, and were conllantly making comparifons betweei;
thcmfelves an^d us, with the ftrongell marks of humihy.
The young women were not lels kind and engaging, and
till they found, notwithftanding our endeavours tq
prevent it, that they had reafon to repent of our ac-
quaintance, attached themfclves xo .us without the lea{^
referve.

Injuftice, however, tothefex, it muft be obferved,
that thefc ladies were probably all of the lower clafs oi
the people, fof I am ftrongly inclined to believe, that,
excepting the few, whofe names are mentioned in the
courfe ot the narrative, we did not fee any woman of
irank in the iilanji.

Their natural capacity feems, in notefpedl, below
the common ftandard ot mankind. Their improve-
ments in agriculture, and the perfetflion of their manu-
fadlures, are certainly adequate to the circumftances of
their fituation, and the natural advantages they enjoy.
The eager curiofity, with which they attended -the ar-
mourer's forge, and the many expedients they had in-
vented, even before we left the iflands, for working
the iron they had procured from us, in fuch forma as
were bed adapted for their purpofcs, were ftrong proofs
of docility and ingenuity.

Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena (killed with his

brother and j 5 of the nativas in the fatal confli6t with

Capt. Cook) poflefled a degree of judicious curiofity,

" " "" . and

SS9

Captain Cook's third Voyage

and a quicknefs of conception, which was rarely met
with amongft thefe people. He was very inquifittvc
after our cuHoms and manners ; a(ked after otjr
kingi the nature of our government i our numbcts;
the method of building our fhips } our houfes ; the
produce of our country ; whether we had uars ; witti
vrhom i and on what occafions ; and in what manner
they were carried on ; who ws^s our God ; and many
other queftions of the fame nature, which indicated ai^
iindeiltanding of great comprehenfion.

We met with two inftances of perfons difordercd in
their minds, the one a man at O w hyhee, the other a wo-
man at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the particular
attention and refpedl paid to them, that the opinion of
their being infpired by the Divinity, which obtains a-
mong mou of the nations of ^he Ea(V, is a\fo received
here.

The inhabitants of thefe iflands differ from tl^ofc of
the Friendly Ifles, in fuftering, almoft univerfally, their
beards to grow. There were, indeed, a few, amongft
whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely j and
others that v/ore it only upon their upp.er lip. "Iphc
lame variety, in the manner of wearing tli,9^i,air, is al-
io obfervable here, as among the other iflanders of the.
fouth feiis i befides which, they have a fafhion, as far
as we know, peculiar to themielves. They 9u^ it cloi(Sp
on each fide the head, down to the cars, leaving a
iidge, of about a fmall hand's bre^citb, running frohi
the forehead to the neck; which, >vi[i^n the hair is
thick and curling, has the fprni of a crcft of tht anci-
ent helmet. Others wear large quantities o.f falf? ^*^^''»
flowing down their backs in long ringlets j an^ Others
again, tie it into a fmgle round bunchbn the top of the
head, almofl as large as the head itfelf ; and fome into
five or fix diftin<ft bunches. They dai^b their h^ir with

Round the World.

5^9

ely met
ijuifitivc
ter o»jr
mbc^s ;
cs ; the
s i witl^
manner
id niany
:ated an

dered in
er a wo-
articular
Mnion o£
btains a-
received

, tli^ofc of
Uy, their
amc

jly J and
p. "^hc
ir, isal-
Irs of the.
In, a^ fa,r
^^t clofp
av\ng a
n^ frphi
hair h
hi anci-
vlf(p hair,
i Qther^
p of the
me i^to

te'K with

a grey clay, mixed with powdered (hells, which they
keep in bal's, and che\v it into a kind of fofc pafte^
yhen, they have occafion to make ufe of it. This keep4
the hajr fmootb, and in time, changes it to a pale yellow
colour.

Both fexe5 wear necklaces, made of ftringa of fmall
yariegated (hells ; and an ornamenti in the fotm of the
hi^ndle of the cup, about two inches long, and half an
tnch broad, madepf wood, ftone, or ivory, finely po'
liihed, which is hung about the neck, by fine thi-eadij
of twifted hair, doubled fometimes an hundred fold.
Inftead of ^^lis ornament, fome of them wear, on their
hreaft^ a Cm^ll human figure, made of boae, luipended
in the fanae ipnanner*

The fan, or fly-flap^ is alfo an ornament ufed by
both fej^es. The nfJoft ordinary kind are made of the
fibres of the c ic^a-nut, tied loofc, in bunches, to the
top of a fmpoth polifh'd handle- The tail feathers of
the copk, and of the tropic bird, are alio ufed in the
fame manner ; but the moft valuable are thofe which
have the handle made of the arm or leg bones ot aii.
enenoy flain in battle, and which are preferved with
great care, and handed down, from father to Ton, as
trophies of ineftimable value.

Thecu,ftomof tatowing the boJv, they have in com-
rnon with the reft of the natives ot the South Sea iflands,
but it is only at N^^ny Zealand, and the Sandwich iHands,
that they tato>v the face.

From Come information we received, relative to the
cuftom of tatovyring, we were inclined to think, that
it is frequently intended as a ftgn of mourning on the
death of a chief, or any other calamitous eveat. For
we wer^ oftep tQld> chat fuch a particular mark was

'5:5

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

A«

V**' ^>^

<' vl^

1.0

I.I

128

■ 40

■ 2.2

L25 iu

2.0

I
lis

1.6

^>.^

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23Vvri5t MAINSTKHT
WIBSTIJt.N.y. MSSC

(716/ i72-;>r«

■ss

-^Cv ^\

^'^"V

"^J^^
^

;

0yo. Captain Cook's third Voyao«

lii memory of fuch ^ chief, and fo of the reft. It may
be here, too, obferved, that the loweft clafs are often
tattowed with a mark, that dtdingutfhes them as the
property of the feveral Chiefs to whom they belong.

The drefsof the men generally corififts of a piece of
thick cloth called the maro, about ten or twelve inches
broad, which they pafs between the legs, and tie round
the viaift. This is the common drefs of all ranks of
people. Their mats, fome of which are beautifully
manufac^lured, are of various fizes, but moftly about
five feet long, and four broad. Thefe they throw
over their fhoulders, and bring forward before ; but
they are feldom ufed, except in time of war, for which
purpofe they feem better adapted than for ordinary ufe,
being of a thick and cumberfome texture, and capable.
of breaking the blow of a ftone, or any blunt weapon.
Their feet are generally bare, except when they have
occafion to travel over the burnt ftones, when they fe-
cure them with a fort of fandal made of cords, twifted
from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Such is the ordinary
drefs of the iflandcrs ; but they have another, appro-
priated to their chiefs, and ufed on ceremonious occa-
iions, confining of a feathered cloak and helmet, which
in point of beauty and magnificence, is perhaps nearly
equal to that of any nation in the world. Thefe cloaks
are made ofditferent lengths, in proportion to the rank of
the wearer, fome of them reaching no lower than the
teiddle, others trailing on the ground. The inferior
chiefs have alfc a ftiort cloak, refembling the former,
made of tl^e long-taiPd feathers of the cock, the tropic
and man of war birds, with a broad border of the fmall
and yellow feathers, and a collar of the fame. Othei3
again are made of feathers entirely white, with variega-
ted borders. The helmet has a ftrong lining of wick-
er-work, capable of breaking the blow of any war-
like inftrument, and fccms evidently defigaed for that

purpofe^

Round the World.

57*

ICV3

purpofe. Thcfc feathered drcfles feemed to be exceed- .
ingly fcarce, appropriated to perfons of the bigheft rank^
and worn by the men only.

The exa6V referoblance between tbis habit, and the
cloak and helmet formerly worn by the Spaniards, was
too (Inking not to excite our curiofity to inquire, whe-
ther there were any pirobable grounds for fuppofangit
to have been borrowed from them. After ezertiiig
every means in our power, of obtaining information
on this fubjefl, we found that they had no immediate
knowledge of any other nation whatever ; nor any tra-
dition remaining among them of thefe iflands having
been ever vifited before by any fuch (hips as ours, ^t
notwithftanding the refult of thefe inquiries, the un-
common form of this habit appears to me a fuffident
proof of its European origin i efpecially when added
to another circumllance, that it is a fmgular deviation
from the general refemblance in drefs, which prevails
amongil all the branches of this tribe, difperfed through
the South Sea. We were driven indeed, by thisoon-
clufion, to a fuppofition of the (hipwreck of fome Buc-
caneer, or Spanifli (hip, in the neighbourhood of thefe.
idands. But when it is recoUeded, that the courCe oC
the Spani(h trade from the Acapulco to the Mamllasa
is but a few degrees to the Southward of the Sandwich
Iflands, in their paflage out, and to the Northward, an
their return, this fuppofition will not appear in the kafl
improbable.

The common drefs of the women bears a clofe refem-
blance to that of the men. They wrap round the waift
a piece of cloth, that reaches half way down the thi^;
and . fometimes, in the cool of the evening, they ap-
peared with loofe pieces of iine cloth thrown over ihar
(boulders, like the women of Otaheite. The Pan is
another drefs very frequently worn by the yoanger

part

j;74 Captain Cook's third Voyaob

pkrt t)f the fe)c. It is made of the tfiMnelft ihd fihtft
fort of cloth, wrapt feveral times round ihe waift, ind
defcending to the leg ; fo as to have exa£^)y the ap-
pearance of a fall (hbirt pctti^rbat. Their hiiV is but
flmn behind t and ttikned up be?6re. as is the fa()iion
among the Otaheite&hs ind New Zeal^hderb ; 411 of
whom diffar, in this fcfpeft, fronrt the Vvomeh ofthe
Friendly Iflatl^, who wear their hair long. We fiW,
indeed', one wotttSLti In Karakakoba Bay, whofe h^ir
vas Arranged in a ver^ (Tn^til^r manner ; it Was taVned
up behind, and brought over tftc fordhekd, arrd theti
4pubteii back', fb as to fdrrh a Tori of ^a^e fdr tlie
fiJEce, Hke a fmall bonnet.

Their btfcklsiccfe are made of (hells, or of a hartl, flii-
riifig, red berry. Bcifides which, they Wedr wr^eathsof
dried ttoWcts of the Indian mallow; kti^ At^otKcr beau-
tiftfl orrnariien't, called Eraie, which iS^erieVsill^ put a-
b&trt the neck, but is fonietlmes tied lrk!6 a garland
round the hair, and fomerimes worn in botli thefe ways
at once. It 16 ft ruff of the tWckriefs of a iinger, m^ac,
in a curious manner, of fexeeWirtg fr/xall fcatheri, W<S-
veti ft) clofe'fogfet'hcr as to form a furface as Tmobth ^s
that of tfic richdl velvet. The jg^rbund was generally
oifared colo'tir^ with alternate cirdlcs o'f ^r'een, yellow,
and bl^atcfk.

At Atooi, fome of the women wore little fi^iircs of

conjcfturcs of the curious. There is aMb an oriiSt^ctt
msEde df flieHs^ fafteticd in roiWs bci a^rband of ffroa^
netting', fo as to ftrrkc cacH btlicr, u^hcti in inbtibh ;
which both men and wbmieh, wttcii <hey dance, tic d-
thcr rcmnd ifhc arm of the ankfe, orb^low the knee,
loftead of ihells, they fomctiincs luiike ufe of dog's

teeth.

S.OtJND.THE "^bRLiJ.

teeth, and a hard red b^rry, refembling that of the
holly.

Tkere remarns to be mentioned another ornament
(if fuchit may beca11ed% the figure of which may be
conceived by the following defcription. It is a kind
of ma(k, hiade of a large gpiird, with holes cut in it
for the eyei and nofe. The top was iluck full of
fmail gr^e() twigs; which, at a diflance, had the ap-
pearance of an elegant waving plume ; and from the
lower part hiing narrow ftripes of cloth, refembling a
beard. We never faw thefe liialks worn biit twice^
and both times by '^ number of people together in a
canoe, who came to the fide of the (hip, laughing and
drolling, with an air of liiafqueirading. Whether they
may not like wife be ufc;d as a, defence for the head
againft ilones« for which they feem bed def'gned, or
in fome of their public games, or be mefely intended
for the purpofes of mummery^ we could never in*
form ourfclves.

in addition to the furniture of their houfes, which'
has been accurately defcribed by Captain Coc k» 1 have
only ^o add, that at one end arc mat* on which they
flecp, with wooden pillows, orflecping ftools, tnftly
likethofc of the Chinefe. Some ot the better fort of
houfcs have a court-yard before them, neatly railed in,
with fmiiller houfcs built round it, for their fervants.
In this area they generally eat, and fit during the day-
time. In the fides of the hills, and among the flecp
rocks, we alfo obftfrvcd fev^ral holes or c;ivcs, which
appeared to be inhabited; but as the entrance was de-
fended with wicker-work, and We alfo found, in the
only one that was vifited, a (^one fence running acrofs
it within, we imagine they arc principally defigned for
places of retreat, in cafe of an attack from an enemy.
Numb. 24. A a a a The

5X4 Captaih Cook's third Voyage

Thie way of pending their time ippeirs to be verjr
fimple, and to admit or little variety. They rife Whtt
the fun ; and, after enjoying the cool of the evening,
. retire to reCt a few hours a^er fiin-fer. The niakihg
o^ canoes* and mtts forms the Gccapcii:io'ns of the &ees ;
the: women ^c e»]»i)&ytid in mam!i>m^urhig cloth ; and
the Towtows are princi{>alty engaged lA the ptaiifations
uhd fifliing. Their idle hours are Sited 'up Wftb v^rio^s
amnfemcnts. Their you'fig fnen and women ^irefoiid
of daucidg; send, on; more foteftin' 6)deafioAs> the^ hate
boxing and wreftHug matchfes, after the ittanner of the
Friendly Iflancfe ; thodgh, 'm all thefe re%>eds^ they are
much inferior to tbelafteF.- ' "^^ ■■

. Thdr dances have au mtidk nearer refembfantie to
thofeof the New Zealaftderr, than of the Orahei'teaiw
or Friendly Wanders.. They are prefaced with a; Ihvf^t
folemn fong, in which all the party join, rtioVing their
legs, and gently itriking their bread^s, inaiuanner, and
with attitudes, that are perfe^lly eafy and graceful; and
fo far they ace the fame with the dances^ of the Society
Klands.

* ■■■■■.'

Their muilc is of a ruder kind*, having neither frftles
nor reeds, nor in^uments of any other fort, that we
faw,. except drums of various fizes.. But their fongS,
which they fung in parts^ and accompany with- a gen-
tle motion of the arms, in the fame manner dB the
Friendly Iflanders, had % v^erf pleaiing dEfe^h

. It is very remarkable, that the people of thefe i(!and)»
are great gamblers. They have a gamie very mnch lilite
our draughts ; buc, if one may judge from the num<^
.htt of fqiiares^ it is^ much more intricate; The board
Is about two feet long» and is divided into t#o hun^
deed and thirty-eighi fquates^ of which there are]four->

. ' teen

Round T MS Woulo.

S7I

teen in a row, and ^-:f make u^e of black and ^k'^tt
pebbles, which they fnove from f<juai:c to fquare.

Tbqr^ is another game, which coniifts in hiding a
ftone under a piece ot cloth, which one of the parties
fpreads out, and rumples in fuck a manner, that the
pliace where the ftooe lies/is difficult to he diilingui(hed*
The autagonill, with a fttck, then §tc\y .s the part of
the doth where he imagines the ftone to be; and as the
ebamces are» upon the whole, conHderably againlt hiis
hitting it, odds, of all 4egrees, varying with the opi-
nion of the (kill of the parties, a^e li^id on the £de of
him who hides,

Pefides thefe games, they frequently amufe ihpnr
felves with racing-matches between the boys and girls;
and here again they wager wkb great fpirit* I faw a
man inii mod violent ^^ge, tearing his hair, and heat-
ing jiis Vr^aft, after loofiug the hatchets at 45ne of thejfc
ra^es, whkh he had iulV before pwjrcha&d from irti,
Vith half Jdi? fubftancc.

Swimming ]$ npt only ^ ncceflkry art, in which both
their jnPH aid women m^ mpre expert than anv people
we hi^ye Wthfi«o fcco, and a faviourite diveriion^amongft
th^m, Ow paixlpular fnpde, in which they fometimes
mvik tjjci^elvc* with this exercifc, in Karakakooa
i^y> ?Ppe*rcd moft perilpu* and extraordinary, and

:yrc^ <|^^ying a dUl'w^Sk relation.

The Turf, ^Phich l?reaks on the coaft round thcbaV,
exiefldy ^o tl^^iftauec of about one hnndpcd and fiAjr
yar^ fxm wp ft9W. within wjiieh fpace, the iiii^es
of tbp.^^ jiccumnJj^^fig from the (hillowHefs of tlifc
W^Xr ^rc ^c4^g^]ln{^ t\ie beach with prodlgioui
viqle^cc, tVhencvw* from ftormy weather, or artV
^^^m^y ^«^eU %% fca, the impctuolity of the fuif

Sy6 . Captaik CboK's THlftD Voyao>

fs increafed to Its utmbft height, they choofc tt.at lime
for their amufcmciit, which is performed in the follow-
ing manner : Twenty or thirty of the nativcF, taking
each a long narrow board, I'ouhded at the ends, iet out
together from the (hore. The firft wave they meet,
they plange undcr^ and fuffcr it to roll over them, rife
again beyond ir. and mfke the beft of their way, by
fwimming, out into the fea. The fccond wave is en-
countered in the fame manner with the firft ; the great
dignity in fetting the proper foment of diving under
-it; which, if miffed, the pcrfon is caught by the fnrf,
and driven back sig&in with great violetice ; and all his
dexterity is then required to prevent himfeJf from being
dajQied againft the rocks. As foon as they have gain-
ed, by "thefe repeated efforts, the fm9oth water be^ood
the furf, they lay thcmfelves at length on their board,
andprfepare for their return. As the furiP cpnfifts of a
number of waves, of which every third ii remarked
to be alway* much larger than the others, at^d to flow
highec on thte ibore, the reft breakii^g ip' the mtcrmer
diate fpacc, their firft objeiSt is to p|aec thcmCelye^ on
the fummit of the largeft furgc, by which they aie'^^ri-
'V.cu along with amazitig rapidity' towards trie rfiQre.
If by jmiitakc they Ihould place thcmfelves <>i^' one of
thiofmalicr waves, which brealts befbte they Vieach the
land, or'ftiottldinot be able t» keep their plank in a
•proper diridftion ,on the top of the fw^ll, they ar'd* left
to the furjr of the next, and, to avoid it arc obliged
again to dive and regain the place, (IroiiiT whicli they
fet'out. Thofe who fucceed in their. objc£^ of re^h-
ing the ftictre, have ftill the greateft dauj^er to'eti^dun-
tpii f The epaft being guarded by a chain of rocks,
witb» ^re and there, a fmall opening between th^m,
^hey ar^ obliged to fteec thdi; boa^rd oijre of tlte/ci or,
in cafe of- failure, to quit it, before tliey reach the
jrocTcs, and, pljinge under the -w-avc make the beft qt
ihcir way back 4fiaink. . This is reckoned very'difgrace-
>^^ ' ^ ' . ful,

Round thb Wq.illd.

577

fiil, and is often attended with tt]ie lofs of the board,
which 1 have often feeii, with great terror, daflicdto
pieces, at the very moment thp iflandcr quitted it. The
boldnefs and addrcfs, with which wc faw thcin perforin
jthcfe difficult and dangerous manoeuvres, was altogCr
ther adoniihing, and is fcarcely to be credited.

i '■ . ■ '

. - ■ 1

An ac<:ident, of Which I was a near fpeAator, ftiews"
at how early a period they are fo far familiarized to the
water, as both to lofe all fear of it, and to fet its dan*
gers at defiance. A canoe being ovtrfet, in which was
a woman with her children, one of them an infant, who,
I am convineect, was not more than four years' old,
(eemed highly delighted with what had happcn'ed,
iwimming about at its eafe, and playing a hundred

tricksy till the canoe was put to right again.

.1 ' ' . '■/'■■ '

Befides the amufemeiits I hav6 already mentioned^
the young children have one, which was inuch played
at«*and (hewed no fmull degree of dexterity. . They
ta^ a fhort ftick, with a peg fharpened at both ends,
running through one extremity 6i it, and extending
abj>ut an inch on each fide;: and throwing up a ball
made, of green leaves moulded together, and fccurcd
with twine, they catch it on the point of the peg i and
immediately throwing it up again from the peg, they
curp'the flick round, and thus keep catching it on each
point alternately, without mifiing it, for a confiderable
time* ' They are not lefs expert at anothier game of the
fame nature, tofiing up in the air, and catching, in
^heir turns, a number of thefe balls ; fo that we fre-
quently law little children thus keep in nibtionfiveat a
lime.. Withthis latter play thti young people likewiic
di^^rt themfelvcs at die Frictidly Wands.

r- Thc^rtcatrcfcmblancc which prevails in theMbdfe 6f
Agriculture and navigation, amongft all the inhabitants

5?8 Captain C9ok's THIRD VoVAOE

qf the South Sea iflapds, leaves me very little to a4d
on thofc heads.— 'The melt iQurious fpecimeas of their
fcu^pturCf Which we faw duriqg our fecond vifit, arc
the bowls, in which the Chiefs drink ava. Thcfc arc
ufually about eight or ten inches in dian^eter, perfcdly
round, and beautifuUjr poUihed. Ttiey arc fupportccl
by three, and fonietimes four fmall human figures, in
various attitudes, Soipe of them reft on the hands of
their fuppprters, e^t^nded over the iiead ; others on
the head afid hj^nds ; and (ome on the (hojulder^* The
iigdres, I aj?i tpld» ^re accurately proportioped* and
neatly fipii^ed, and even theapatpmy pf U^c fl^ii^iiBs,
ip fuppprtjn^ if^c weight, wcU cxprcfled,

i*heir dpth is pade of tli,e /ame materlaljs, and la
the fame mani^e^, asatth&FrieiHlly andSpcjety Ulands*
That which is dciijgned to be painted, is of a thick and
ftrqijtgtej^ture, fcveral folds being beaten and iucotpo-
jrjttetrto^ethcr; after whicli it ;$ ?^t in breadth'* about
.two or t^reptcjf^ Yi<^^» ^ *$ painted in a variety of
patterns,- with a comprche^Qve and regularity or de^*
fign, th^t bejTpeaks infinite taCk^ and fancy. T he ex'c
,^i5lnefs wit,h^ which the moft intrics^tje pattjerns are con<>
itinued, is !;^»c ^o^ciHrpriiziftg, when wciconfidcy, that
they have np ftamps, and that the whole is donie by the
ey^, 'With pieces <^ bamboo cane dipped in paint i the
,handlii)^eij)g fuppprtedhy ^pqthj^r phcc of ta» cane^ m
the manner pra^i^fed by pj^r painters* Thei? coloiir|i
aire icxir^^ed frofl? the Ijyiii© l?errie^ aod other vcgeta*-
.Wcfuhita^^c^^jaU at Oj^^^

, ThfibM^fsp^ p^iniipg belongs inslrely to thewp-
jnen, apdi^5:^ire(^j(i|^paree;) and it is remarkable, that
they always givj^^j^ff f^^lli««ie jco* owr.Wtitang; The
young women would often take the pen put of o^r
-h^n^h *^ ft?F ¥<?» f\\^ : «fecy knew the ufd ojF i^ *s

Round thb World.

51^

ar?

that

^f our
it as

iB^ell a&we did % at the fame titfie telling us, that out
pens were not To good as theirs. They looked upon ac
(h«et 0^ Written paper, as a piece of cloth ftrrpedaiPtey
the fafliion of Our cOtintry, and it was not without thd
titmoft difficulty, that tee could make them underftand*
that our figures had a meaning iii them which theirs
had not.

Their mlts are made of the leaves of pandatus {
and, as Wdl' as theit' cfotl^, are beatihilly worked in Jt
variety of pattern's, ^nd ftatned of different colour^.
Some have a ground of pale greien, fpotted with fquares^
or romhoids, of red ; Others are of a ftraw colour^
fpotted with green; and others are worked with beau«
tiful ftripes, cither in ftraight or waving lines of red
and brown. In thib article of ma-hufa£^ufe, whethei^
wc regard the ftrength, fiacncfs, or beauty, they cer-
tainly excel the whole world.

■'Their fiihing-hooks are made of mother-of-pearf^
bone, Or wood, pointed and barbed with fitiall bone^
Or tortolfe-(hell. They are of various (i^es and forms i
but the moft common are about two or three inches
btig, and made in the iha^ of a fmall ifilh, whicK
ferVes as a bait, having a btmch of feathers tied to th<^
head or t?il. Thofc with which they fifti for (hark?^
are of ft very large fize, being generally fix or eight
kkeheslong. Confideritigthe materials of which thefi^
hooks are madtf their ftrength and ne^tnefs are really
aftoniihing; and in fa£l We found them, upon trials
Mitich fupcrior to our own.

The line which they ute for flfliiiltgi for making netl^
and for other domeftic puvpofes, i^ of dii&rent degreed
of finenefs, and is made of the bark of the touta, or
doth tree, neatly and evenly cwiflied, hi the hiac man.

|fe Captain Cook's thIro VovAdi

ncr as our common twine i'an4: may be continued to
any length. They have a finer fort, made of the bark
of a fmall (hrub called Areemah ; and the finc^ is made
of human hair ; but this laHk is chiefly ufed for things
of ornament. They alfo make cordage of a ilronger'
kind, for the rigging of their canoes, from the fibrous
coatings of the cocoa nut8« Some of this we purchaf-
cd for our own ufe, and found it ^vell adapted to the
fmalier kinds of running riggings They likewife make
ajiotKer fort of cordage, which is flat, and exceeding-^
]y ilrbng, and ufed principally in lathing the rooming of
their houfes, or whatever they wi(h to faftcn tight to-
gether. This laft is not twiftcd like the former forts,
but is made of the fibrous firings of the cocoa-nut'»
coat, plaited with the fingers, in the muniier our fai-*
lors make their points for the reefing of fails- ,

'tht gourds, grow to fo cnoritious a fize, tliat fome
of them are capable of containing from ten to twelve
gallons, are applied to all manner of domeflicpyrpo^s ^
and in order to fit them the better to their rcfpcftive
ufes, they have the ingenuity to give them different
forms, by tying bondages round them during ,tb€ir
growth. Thus, feme of them are of a long* eylindfi-
cal form, as beft adapted to contain their iifhing-tac-
klc i others arc of a difli form, and thefe ferve to hold
their fait, and faked provifions, their puddings, vpge*
tables, &c. which two. forts have neat clofc covers,
made likewife of the gourd ; others again are exaftly
the (hape pf a bottle with^i long neck, and in thcle
they keep their w atcr. They have li kewifc a method
of Icouring them with a heated inflrumcnr, fo as to
give them the appearance of being painted, in a vari-
ety of neat and elegant deiigus, ,

From the Sandwich Iflands Captain Gierke bent his
(cotirfc to the coaft of Karoptfchatka, in fight of which

R u N o T H E World.

5««

he time OB tbc aamfl of April, 1,7,79. Oi the 25th hx
loft lii^ht of the DtfccFcry ; but coming to anchor in
tiic Buy 'Of A^ntAca, on che sAth, sit fome didaince from
the fwall toiwa and harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul,
he kid the fat'tfa£^ion offeciEig her (land into the B»y
on tibe itrft of May. This «own, other wife caUed Pe-
tropauloM^'ikd) confided only of a i«w mtferable log-
houfes and fome conical huts, raifed on poles. But, in
this wretched extremity of the earth, lituated beyond
every thittg that could be cooceired to be moft barba-
rous anfd rnhd^pitable, and, as it were, out of the very
reach of civilia^tion, barricaded with ice, and covered
wfCh fommer fnow, in a poor miferabk port, fArinfc-
rioMO'the mfeaneft of our filhimg towns, they met with
fe0)fng<s of humanity, joined to a greatneis of n:iad9
which would have done honour to any nation or climate.

The ^arrival x)f. the Ihips gat/« great alarm, at firft,'
to^heCommsLndcr at Be«ropaulowiki ; but proper ex-
pUinatiom and con (equeut civUi tics foon took place.
Mr. KingvMr. Webber, «iui two faitois, who had each
a bMit-^Qok, being fent to watt tipon the G>n»imnder^
who was a Serjeant in the Ruffian fervice, met with
g^eat <itfficultif s in walkingtiver theice, w bich extend-
ed h«H' « mile from the fhofe. On their return, there-
fore, the ^rjeanc provided a iledge, diawn by five
dogs, with a driver, for each of ,them. The failoi^
were highly deiighted with this mode of conveyance \
and w£it diverted them fttU ^more was, that a fledge

W«a appropriated 'to each of the boati hooks.

- ,-•. i. ' "

Astlier€ was>nopo0ibtilty0f procuring provifions or
navaA ftofes fftPetPopauk>w^i*, -and «s the Sei jcftat cqu14
not ft^ in this tfffair, without orders from the RufTiaa
Commander of Komtfchatka, who refided at Bolcheretfk»
a towfi'Qiir^e Well Side of the Peninfiila, diftant from

P b b b^ i > iif <PjCtropaulQwika

58*2 Captain Cook's third Voyao«

Petropaulowlka about 1-^51111168; the Serjeant, on the
firft interview, had difpatched a meffcnger to his fupe-
rior officer. This meflcnger, who was fent off on the
29th, about noon, in a fledge drawn by dogs, returned
early in the morning on the 3d of May ; fo that he was
little more than three days and a half in performing a
journey of 270 miles.

On the 4th a Mr. Fedofitfcli, a Ruflian merchant,
and a German, named Port, (who, in the fequel, prov-
ed very uff ful as an interpreter) waited on Capt. Gierke,,
with a letter from Major Behm, the Commander 06
Kamtfchatka. This letter was merely compli mental,,
inviting Capt. Clcrke and his officers to Bolcheretfk, to-
which place the people who brought it were toconduffe
them.

Capt. Gore, Mr. King, and Mr. Webber being ap-
pointed by Capt. Clerke^ to wait upon the Commander
at Bo!cheret(k, the fet out, on the 7th, accompanied by
MefTis-Fedofufch and Port, and twoCoflacks. Part of
the way they proceeded by the tedious and difficult
navigation of the river Awatlka* In the evening they
crefted a marquee, and flept-on fliore. In the morning
of the 8th, they cEcmet by the Toionor Chict of the
Odrog of Karatchin, (an Oftrog, is a (mall town, for-
tified by palifatdoeF,. whece the RuiTtanr Coflacks, and
other inhabitants refide) ^ho having been apprized of
their coming, had provided canoes that were better con*
trived for navigating the higher part of the river. When
they arrived at the Oftrog, they were received at the
water fide, by the Kamtfchadale men and won:ien;. and
fomc Ruffian fervants belonging to Fedofitfch. They
were all drefled cut in their beft clothes. Thofc of
the women were pretty and gay, coniifting of a full
loofe robe, ot white nankeen, gathered clofe round the
neck> aad faftened with a collar of coloured filk. Over

ihia

Round the Worlp.

5«8

ivjii .a«.

!fliisthey wear a fhortjacket without flecves, ma^e of
diSerent coloured nankeens, and petticoats of a flight
Chinefe filk. Their fliifts which had fleevcs dawn to the
wrifts, were alfo of filk ; and coloured filk handker-
chiefs were bound round their heads, concealing en-
tirely the hair of the married women, while thofc that
v/erc unmarried, brought the handkerchief under the
hair, and fuffered it to flow loofe behind.

This Oftrog, was f»leafantly fituated by the fide of
the river ; and confifted of three log-houfes ; three
jourts, or houfes ri^ade under ground ; and nineteen
balagans, or funnmer habitations. We were condudled
to the dwelling of the Toion, who was a plain decent
man, born of a Rufllan woman, by a Kampfchadale fa •
their. His houfey like all the reft in this country, was
divided into two apartments. A lon^ narrow table,
with a bench round it, was all the furniture we faw in
the outer ; and the houfehold (luff o( the inner, which
was ^he kitchen, v^ as no lefs fimple and fcanty. But the
kind attention of our hod, ana the hearty welcome we
received, more than the compenTated for the poverty
of his lodgings.

His wife proved an exceUant cook ; and ferved us
with fifh and game of different forts, and various kind
of heath berries, that had been kept lince the lad year.

While we were at dinner in this miferable hut, the
^uefts of the people, with whofe exiftance we had been
Icarce acquainted, and at the .extremity of the habita-
ble globe, a folitary, half-worn pe'>uer fpoon, whole
Ihape was familiar to us, attracted our attention \ and,
on examination, we found it (lamped on the back with
the word Lond«jn. I cannot pafs over this circumftance
an Silence, out of gratitude for the many pleaiam:
^^oii^ht$^ the anxious hopes, and tender remembrancee

It excited in us. Thofe, who- have experienced the tf-
ftAs that long abfence a«d extreme diftai^ce from their
native country produce on the mind* will readily con^
ccive the pleafur^ fuch- trifling incidents can give. To
the philbfopher and the politician they may per htps fUg-
geft refledliofiB of a different nature.

After the mod? he(])itable treatment, during rile- con'r fc
of the day, Mr. ^ing and his party, who were now to
proce«d' On fledges, retireduo rei^, having previouHy
agreed with their conductors to be called upv agifoon
as the ground was hard enough to bear the fledges;
At nine in^ the evening, they were awalcedby tlie me-
lancholy-howlings of thedogs, which' continued Mf the
tiine the baggage wawtalhing' upon the ilei^ftfr; but, as
foon as^. the dog«' were yoked, and they wcjfe all pre^
pared to fet out, this cha<nged into^ a light! eheafrM
yelping, which emirely ceafed the iirftafno they parch-
ed oE

The body of thiiUbdge? is. about four ffeet andathalf
long, and a foot wide, mudie itt the forffi'df a creibent,
of light tough wood, ftrongly bound together with
■wicker-work ; which in thofe belonging to the better
fort of people is elegantly ftaihed of a red and bltie co-
lour, and the feat cqvered vitli beat-lkins^ and other
furs. It is Tupported by four l>eg^^ about two^eet^^lligh,
which refts on two flat pieces of wood, five or fix inches
broad, extending a fo6t at each end beyond the body
of tlie fledge. THefe are turned up before in the inan*-
ncr of the (kate, and (hod widi the bones' of fdn^^fea'-
ainimal. The forepart of rite carriaee is oraaiT^#nt!ed
with thongs of leather attd taflHs of tiotoured tflbthr;
and from th^ crofv bar, w which the hairnefft iff joined,
are hung links of iron, ot fmall bells^ the jingling of
which they cbnceive to be encouraging to the dogs,
^h^ are^ feldom^uW- to carry more tJhttn one perfen'at

:ed the tf-
from ttieir
a«liff con*
gi-ve. To
thtps fiig-

th€coatfe
;re now to
previoufly

Id fledges;
y the me-
Ued 9h\ the
tfri but, as
fKe all j^re^
11? chearfiil
ley n^arch-

and sihalf
a creibenti
cthc* with
the better
id bltie co-
ap'dt other
^feetl^igh,
)X fix inches
d tho ^dy
n the fcwQh

fdn^^ fea-
pnani6tiCed
red d^th;
ft is" i<$ined,
jingfirtg of

the dogs.
.t' peFfon'ftt

k^^ N I> ♦# H E Wo R L I>.

J»i

ft time, who fits atide^ f eding his feet on the lower pa«f
of the (ledge, and carryiDg his provifion» and othcfr ne«
ceflftdeB, wrapped up tn a bundle, behind him; The
dogS^ are ufually five in number, yoked two aiKt
twa with a leader. The rcii» not being faftentid td
the head of the doga, but to the eollar« have Kt-
tle power over them, and are thcrcfbfe genelrallly
hung upon the fledge, whilft ihe driver depends en^
tirely on their obedience to hi» voice for the dife^'i6a
of them. With this view^ the leader is always train-
ed with a particular degree of' care and atcenti*on;
fomc of them rifing to a moft extraordinary value ott
account of their docility and- flicadinel ; iufomi^h^
that for one of thefe, I am well aflured, forty rotiblej
^or ten pounds) was no nnufiral price. The driver i*
alfo provided with a crooked ftick, whieh anfwers th«
purpofc both of whip and rein*; as by ftrikiag it JnCd
;the fnow, he is enaWed to moderate the fpecd of the
dogs, or even to ftop them 'mrireiy ; and when they arft
iazy, or ptherwifc inattentive to his voice, he chaftifcs
them by throwing it at them. Upon thefe oc^eafions,
fheir dexterity m picking it ap again is very remarkablr,
and forms the principal difficulty of their art. But it
is- indeed not furprifmg, that they (hould labour to be
■fltilfol in pra£licc upon which their fafety fo materially
depends. For they fay, that if the driver (hould ha^i-
peJi to lofc his {tick, the dogs will inftfamly perceive it,
and unlcf* their leader be of the moft fober and refelute
kind, they will immediately run a-hcad full fpced, and
sever ftop till they are quite fpent. But as thstf- will
not> be the cafe ibony it generally happens^ that either
the carriage is overturned, daflied to pieces agaiiMll the
trees^ or they hurry down fome precipice, and arfe all
t^uried in the foow. The accounts that were given tis
of the %eed of thefe dogs, and of their extraordinary
patience of hunger and fatigue, were fcarccly eredif-
Jlc, if they had notbeca fupportcd by the beffAtitKo-

, xity.

flS Captain Cook's THIRD VoYAO*

rity» Wt were ourf elves witnefTes of the great expe-
dition with which the meffengcr, who had been dif-
patched to Bolchcrctfk with the news of our artival,
rhurncd to the harbour of St. Peter aad St. Paul,
though the fnow was, at this time, exceedingly foft.
But I was informed by the coramandt:i of Kamtfchat-
ka, that this journey was generally performed in two
days and an half; and that he had once received an
exprefs from the latter place in 23 hours.

The dogs arc fed, during the winter, on the offals
of dried and (linking iiih; but are always deprived
ev«n of this miferable food, a day before they fet out
on a journey, and never fuffcred Jio eat before they
reach the end of it. We were alio told, that it was
not unufual for them to continue thus failing two en--
titc days, in which time they would perform a tourney
of 1 20 miles. Thefe dogs are in ihape fomewhat like
the Pomeranian breed, but coafiderably larger.

Travelling parties are often overtaken with dreadful
ftorms of ihow, on the approach of which, they drive
with the utmoft precipitation, into the neared wood,
and there are obliged to ftay, till the tempefl, which
frequently lads fix or fcven' days, is over ; the dogs rt-
maioingall this while quiet and inoii'enfive; except that,
fometimes, when preifed by hunger, they will devouf
their reins, and other leathern parts of the harnefs*

As we did not choofe to trufl to our own ikill, we
had each of us a man to drive and guide the fledge,
which, from the ftatc the roads were now in, proved
a very laborious talk. For, as the thaw had advanced
very confiderably in the vallies, through which our
road lay, we wei^e under the neceffity ot keeping along
the fides of the hills; and this obliged our guides, who
were provided with fnow-ihoes for that purpofe, 19

fupport

Round t h e W o r l i^i

i«r

they

[1, we

roved
lanced
fi our
(along

who
le, to

>port

fiipport the fledges, on the lower fide,, with their
&ouldcrs» for feveral miles together. I had a very
good humoured Coffack to attend me, who wSts^ hoW'»
ever, fo very unlktlful in his bufincfs, that we were 0-
vcrturncd almoft every minute, to the great entertain^
mcnt of the reft ot the company. Our party confided
in all of ten fledges. That in which Capt. Gore wa»
carried, was made of two laflied together, and abuti'^
dantly provided with furs and bear-ikins ; it had ten
dogs, yoked four a-breaft ; as had alfo fomc of thofc
that were heavy laden with baggage. -

"When we had proceeded about four miles, it began
to rain ; which, added to the darkncfs of the night,
threw us all into confufioa* It was at laft agreed, that
we fhould remain, where we were, till day-light ; and
accordingly we came to anchor in the fnow, (for I can-
npt better exprcfs the Hianncr in which the -fledges
were (fecujed), and wrapping ourfclves up in our furs j
waited patiently for the morning. About three o'clock
we .were called on to fet out, our guides being appre-
hcrifiye, that if wc waited longer, we might be AigJh
ped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed, nor
to return-.. After encountering many difficulties, Which
were principally occafioned by the bad condition of
the road, ar two in the afternoon, we got fafe to Oftrog,
called Natcheekin, fituated on the fide of a ftreara,
which falls in|o the Bolchuireka, a little way below the
town. The diftance between Karatchin and Natchee-
kin is 3$ wetfts (or 25 miles; and had the hard firoft
continued, we fliould not, by their account, have
been more than four hours in performing it ; but the
the f-w was (q fofr, that the dogs, almoft at every
ftep, funk up to their bellies *, and I was indeed much
furpcifed at their being at all able to overcome thedif«
ficyjues ^jF (9 fatiguing a journey.

■*.'"'""''' ' .-■-... . At

Sf9 Captain Cook's thihd Vgtag^

At Natcflieekki we were rcceiTred iii the fafine bofpf**

nlde mafmer, as at Karatjchio ; and in tbe afternooa

we "weat to vifit a retnarkabie hat ipring, near this

Tillage. We faw, at fome diilaiace, the ffeara rifing

from it, as from a boiling cauklrou, and as we ap-

proadied, perceived tbe air had a ftrong fulpliurous

£ndl. The main fpring forms a hafon of abom 3

feet in diameter j beildes which, tliere arc a number

of leflcr fprings, cyf the fame degree of heat, in the

a^acent ground, fo that the whole fpot, to the extefit

of near an acre, wa-s fo hot, that wc couid not ftand

two minutes in the fame place. The water flowing

ftom tbefe fprings h 60^k£^ed in a finali bathing pond,

and afterwards forms a lirtle rivuict ; which, at the

diftance of about an hundred and Miy yards, falls inta

the river. The bath, they told u«, had wrought

great cures in feverai diforders, 'hich as rhcumatifms,

fwt^'led and contraftcd joint, and fcorbutic ulcers. In

the badiing-place the thermometer at 100 degrees^

or blood heat ; but ia the fpring, after being im-

Bieriedtwo minutes, it was ten deg. above boiling fpirits.

The thermonieter in the air^ at this t4me, was 34 deg»

in the river 40 deg. and in the Toin*8 houie 64 deg^

The ground where thefe fprin^« broke out, is on a

gentle afcent ; behind which there is a green hill of a

moderate fize. I am forty 1 was not fuAiciently (kilkd

in botany to examine the plants, which feemed to thrive

here with ereat luxuriance i the wild ^ric, indeed*

forced itielfon dur notice, and was at this time fpf'iag-

iflg up very vigoroufly.

■ The remainder of the way they pf ocecded in canoes
up the river Bokhoireka, and on the 1 2th in the fore-
Boori, arrived at Bolcheretfk. They were received at
the water-fide, by the Comnnander, in a manner the
moft engaging that could be conceived. In company
^ith Major Bchm, was Capt. SchmalcfF, the fecond in

commands

Round the World.

589

fOfpI"^

noon

this

rjfing

- ^P"
urous

om 3

imbcr

n the

:xtcfit

ftand

owing

pondy

u the

Is inta

rought

uifmsy

rs. In

BgrCCSy

ng i«i-
jfjpirits.
deg.

is on ft

II of ft

(kitted

thrive

ndcedy

pfifig-

command, and all the merchants of the place* They
iconduded us to the Commander*s houfe, where we
were received by his lady with great civility, an 1 found
tea arid other refrefhments for us. After the firft com-
pliments were over, Mr. Webber were dellred to ac-
quaint, the Major with the objeft of our journey, with
our want of naval llores, flour, and frcfh provifions,
and other neccflaries for the (hip's crews, and at the
fame time to aifure him, that we were fenfible, from
what we had already fecn of the country about Awat-
ika Bay, we could not expefl much affidance from
him in that quarter ; that the Impoilibility of fending
heavy brafs (lores acrofs the peninfula, during the
prefent feafon of the year, was but two apparent, frpm
the difficulties we had met with on our journey ; and
that) long before any material change could take
place, we (hould be under the neccffity of proceeding
on. our voyage. We were here interrupted by the
CoAimander, who obferved, that we did not kno^
what they were capable of doing ; that, at lead, it
^as not his buflnefs to think of the difficulties of (up*
plying our wants but only to learn what were the ar-
ticles we flood in need of, and the longefl time we
could allow him for procuring them. After expreffing
our fenfc of his obliging difpoficion, we gave him a
lift of the naval ftores, the number of cattle, and the
quantity of flour, we were dire<Eted to purchafe, and
told him, that we purpofed recommencing our voyage
about the 5th of June.

Capt. King next relates many particulars of the wcU-
fupported politenefs and attention, whicli they experi-
enced in the courfe of the day. Early in the morning,
we received the compliments of the Commart ier of
Captain SchmalefF, and of the principal inhabitants of
the town, who all honoured us with vlfits foon after.
Th« twofirft having Tent for Port, after we were g^nc
— C c c c tp

^ I

I90 Captain Cook's third Voyaox

to reft, and enquired of him what articles we Teemed
to be mod in want of on board the (hips ; we found
them prepared to infift on our (haring with the garrifon
under their command, in what little '(lock of provifions
they had remaining. At the fame time they lamented,
that we had arrived at a feafon of the year, when
there was always the greatcft fcarcity of every thing
amongft them ; the floops not being yet arrived with
their ufual fupply from Okotik^

We agreed to accept the liberality of thefe hofpitable
ftrangers, with the bc(l grace we could ; but on conditio
on, that we might be made acquainted with the price of
the articles we were to be fupplied with; and that Capt.
Clerke (hould give bills to the amount, upon the vitSlualling
Office in London. This the Major pofitively rcfufed ;
and whenever it was afterwards urged, flopped us fhort,
by telling us, he was certain, that he could not oblige
his Midrefs more, than iu giving every affiftance in his
power to her good friends and allies the English ; and
that it would be a particular fatisfa6kion to her, to hear,
that in fo remote a part of the world, her dominions
had afforded any rtlief to (hips engaged in fuch fcrviccs
as ours ; that he could not therefore adl fo contrary to
the chara£ler of his £mprefs« as to accept of any
bills i but that, to accommodate the matter, he would
take a bare atteftation of the particulars, with which
we might be furnilhedi and that this he (hould tranf-
mit to his Court, as a certificate of having performed
his duty. 1 (h ill leave (he continued) to the two Courts,
^1 farther acknowledgements; but caanot confent to
accept any thing of the kind alluded to.

When the oiatter was adjufted, he began to inquire
about our private wants ^ faying, he (liould confider
bimfelf a,s ill ufed, if we had any dealings with the

merchants,

Round the World.

591

feemed
e found
;arrifon
ovifions
mented,
•, when
y thing
sd with

jfpitabre
conditi-
: price of
Lat Capt.
dluailing
rcfufcd ;
US fliort,
3t oblige
tee in bis
iQx', and
, to hear,
ominions
1 ferviccs
ntrary to
r of any
he would
th which
ild tranf-
erformed
D Courts,
onfent to

to inquire
\ confider
i with the
aerchantS)

merchants, or applied to any other perfon except him '
felf. ,

In return for fuch Angular generofity, we liad little
to beftow but our admiration and our thanks. Fortu-
nately, however, Captain Clerke had fent by me a fet
of prints and maps, belonging to the lad voyage of Cap-
tain Cook, which he dtlired roe to prefent in his name
to the Commander; who being an enthufiaft in every
thing relating to difcoveries made in .the prefent voy-
age ; and as I judged, that a perfon in his fituation,
and of his turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratifi-
ed by a communication of this fort, though, out of de-
licacy he had forborn to aJk more than a few general
queitions on the fubjcft, I made no fcruple to repofe
in him a confidence of which his whole conduct (hewed
him to be deferving*

I had the pleafure to find, that he felt this compli-
ment as I hoped he would, and was gnuch (Iruck at
feeing, in one view, the whoJe of that coaft, as well on
the iide of Afia as on that of America, of which his
countrymen had been fo many years employed in ac-
quiring a partial and imperfect knowledge.

Excepting this mark of confidence, and tlie fet of
prints 1 have already mentioned we had brought no-
thing with us that was in the lead worth his acceptance;
for it fcarce defervcs noticing, that 1 prevailed on his
fon, a y6ung boy, to accept-of a filver watch t happen-
ed \to have about me ; and I made his little daughter
very ^appy with two pair of ear-rings, of French parte.
Befides thefe trifles, I left Captain SchmaleflFthe ther-
mometer I had ufed on my journey ; and he promifed
me, to keep ai> exaft regifter of the temperature of the
;iir for one year, and to tranfmit it to Mr. Muller, with
^kom he had the pleafiire of being acquainted.

Bol-

55* Captain Cook's third Voyaob

Bolcherctik is fituatcd in a low fwampy plain, that
extends to the' fea of OI<otik, being about 40 miles
long, and of a confiderable breadth. It lies on the
N. fide of the Bolchoi-reka (or great river), betweeri
the mouth of the Gottfofka and the Biftraia, which
here empties themfelves into this river ; and the pe-
ninfula, on which it flands, has been feparated from
the continent by a large canal, the work of the pre-
fent Commander ; which has not only added to its
ilrength as a fortrefs, but has made it much lefs liable
than it was before to inundations. Below the town,
the river is from fix to eight feet deep, and about a
quarter of a mile broad. It empties itfelf into the
fea of Okotik, at the diftance of 22 miles; where, ac-
cording to Kraiheninicoif, it is capable of admitting
veiTels of a confiderable fize. There is no corn, of
any fpecies, cultivated in this part of the country ;
and Major Behm informed me, that his was the only
garden that had yet been planted. This ground was
for the moft-part covered with fnow, that which was
free from it, appeared full of fmall hillocks, of a black
turfy nature. I faw about twenty or thirty cows, and
the majer had fix flout horfes. Thefe, and their dogs
are the only tame animals they poffefs \ the ncceffity
they are under, in the prefent ftate of the country, of
keeping great numbers of the latter, making it im-
poflible to bring up any cattle, that are not in fize and
ftrength a match for them. For, during the fummer
feafoii, their dogs are entirely let loofe, and left to
provide for themfelves; which makes them fo exceed-
ingly ravenous, that they will fometimes even attack
the bullocks.

The houfes in Boleheretflc are all of one fafiiion^
being built of logs, and thatched. That ot the com-
mander is much larger than the reft, confifting of 3
rooms of 9' confiderable fize, neatly papered, and

whiQh

Round the World. *

593

, that
miles
m the
;twcch
which
he pe-
l from
le pre-
to its
» liable
town,
bout a
ito the
:re, ac-
mitting
jrn, of
imtry ;
e only
nd was
ch was
^ black
and
ir dogs
cccffity
ry, of
it im-
ze and
ummcr
eft to
xceed-
attack

which might have been reckoned handfomc, if the talc
with which the windows were covered, had not given
them a poor and difagreeable appearance. The town
confifts of fcvcral rows of low buildings, each confift-
ing of five or fix dwellings, conne6led together, with
a long common paflage running the length of them j
on one fide of which is the kitchen andftore-houfe j
and on the other the dwelling apartments. Bcfides
thefe, are barracks for the Ruffian foldiers and Cof*
facks ; a good-louking church ; and a court-room ;
and at the end of the town a great number oi Balagans,
belonging to the Kanufchadales. The inhabitants,
taken altogether, amount to betwen five and fix
hundred.

The next morning wc applied privately to the mer-
chant Fedofitfch, to purchafe fome tobacco for the
failors, who had been upwards of a twelvemonth
without this favourite commodity. However, this, like
all our other tranfa£lions of the fame kind, came im-
mediately to the mayor's knowledge, and we were
foon after furprifed to find, in our houfe, four bags of
tbbicco, weighing upwards of loolb. each, which he
begged might be prefented in the name of himfclf, and
the garrifon under his command, to our failors. At
the fame time, they had fencu$ 20 loaves of fine fugar,
and as many pounds of tea, being articles they under-
ftood we were in great <^ant of, which they begged to
be indulged in prefenting to the officers. Along with
thefe Madam Behm, had alfo feat a prefent for Capt.
Clerke, confiding of frefti butter, honey, figs, rice,
and fome other little things of the fame kind, attended
with many wi(bes, that, in his infirm (late of health,
they might be of fervice to him. It was in vain we
tried to oppofe this profufion of bounty, which I was
anjtious to reftraiii, being convinced, that they were

giving

594

Captain Cook's third Voyaoi

giving away, not a (liare, but almofl the whole (lock
of the garrifon. The conflant anfwer the major re-
turned us, on thofe occafions, was, that we had fuffw'red
a great deal, and that we mud needs be in diflrefs.
Indeed, the length of time we had been out, fmce we
touched at any known port, appeared to them fo very
incredible, that it required the tt-ftimony of our maps
and other corroborating circumflances, to gain their
belief. Among the latttr was a very curious faft
which major Behm related to us this morning, and
which he fuid, but for our arrival, lie (hould have been
totally at a lofs to account for.

It is well known, that the Tfchut(ki are the only
people, of the North of Afia, who have maintained
their independence, and rcfifted all the attempts that
have btftn made by the Ruflians to reduce them. The
lad expedition againit them was undertaken in the year
'75 » and terminatedt after various fucg.fs, in the re-
treat of the Ruflian forces, and the lofs of the com-
manding olHccr. Since that time, the RuQians had re-
moved their frontier fortrefs from the Anadyr to the
Ingiga, a rivc^r that empties itfcif into the Northern ex-
tremity of the ka of Okotfk, and gives its name to a
gulf, lituated to the Weft of that of Pcnfhinik, Ywm
this fori; Major Bcbm had received difpat^hts the day
of our arrival at Bolchi^retlk, containing intelligence,
that a tiibe, or party of the Tfchut/ki, had arrived ^t
that place with provifionsfor.friendfhip, .an4 A Yolunr
tary offer of tribute j that on enquiring into the <;aufe
of this uncxptded alt<rratiQn in their lentiments, they
had informed his people^ that towards the latttr end
of laft fummcr thty had been vilited by two very large
Ruflian boats } that they had been treated by the ptor
pie, who were in them, with great kindnefs, and had
entered into a league of friendlhip and amity with
them j and that, relying on his friendly difpofition, they

were

Round thb World.

595

were now come to the Ruffian fort, in order to fettle
a treaty, on fuch terms as might be acc' ptable to both
nations. This txtraordinary hiftory had occafioned
much fp'culation, b(^th at Ingiginsk and Bolchcretsk ;
and, had ve not furnifhed them with a key to it, muft
havr remained perfectly unintelligible. Wc ftlt no
fmall fatisfaAion in haying, though accidentally, (hewn
the Ruffians, in this inftance, the only true way of col-
ledling tribute, and extending their dominions \ and
in the hope's that the good underftanding, which this
event haih given rife to, may refcue a brave people
from the future invafions of fuch powerful neigh-
boufs.

In return for the trifles which Mr. King had given to
the children of major Behm, he was prefented by his
little boy, with a mod magnificent Kamtfchadale drefs.
It was of the kind worn by the principal Toions of the
country, on occafv)ns of great ceremony, and which
he underllood afterwards from Fedofitfch, could not
have been purchafcd for 120 roubles. At the fame
time, he had a prefent from his daughter oi a handfome
fable muff.

The next day we dined with the commander, who,
in order to let us fee as much of the manners of the in-
habitants, as our time would permit, invited the whole
«f the better fort of people in the village to his houfe
this evening. All the women appeared very fplendidly
dreffi^d, after the Kamtfchadalc fafliion. The wives of
Capt. SchmalefF and the other officers of the garrifon,
were prettily drcfled, half in the Siberian, and half in
the European mode, and Madame Behm, iu order to
make the flronger contrafl, had unpacked part of 'her
bage, and put on a rich European drefs. 1 was much
ilruck with the richnefs and variety of the fllks which
the women wore, and the iingulurity of their habits.

The

Sjjfi Captain Cook's third Voyage

The whole was like forac enchanted fccnc in the midft
of the wHdcft of dreary country in the world. Ouren-
tcrtaininentconfifted of finging and dancing.

Eaily in the morning, every thing, being ready for
©ur departure, we were invited to call on Madame
Behn, in our way to the boats, and take our leave of
lier. ImprelTcd, as our minds were, with fentiment of
the wermeft gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent,
and generous trea/tment we had met with at Bolche-
reifk, they were greatly heightened, by the affeding
fccne which prefented itUlf to us, on leaving our lodg-
ings. All the foldiers and Caflacks, belonging to the
garrifon^ weredraAn up on one hand, and the male
inhabitants of the town, drefled out in their btft cloths,
on the other ; and, as loon as we came out of the houfe,
the whole body of the people joined in a melancholy
fong, which, the Major told us, it was ufual, in that
Country, to firg on taking leave of their friends. In
this manner wc marched down to the commander's
houfe, preceded by the drums and mufic of the gar-
' rifon, where we were received by Madame Behm, at-
' tended by the ladies, who where dreflVd in long filk
cloaks, lined vith very va'uable furs of different co-
lours,, which made a nioft magniBcent appearance.

After partaking of fome rcfrcflimeat, that was pre-
pared for us, we went down to the water-fide, accom-
panied by the ladies, who now joined in the fong with
the reft of the inhabitants ; and as foon as wc had ta-
ken leave of Madame Behm, and affured her of the
gratef\il fenfe we ihould ever retain of the hofpitality
of Bolcheretik, we found ourfclves too much afFcfted
not to huften into the boats with all the expedition wc
could. When we put oiF, the whole company gave us
three cheers, which we returned from the boat ; and
as we were doubling a point, where for the lait time we

faw

ft o tr J} D T II E AV O R L n.

AGB

the midft
Oareii-

ready for
i Madame
r leave of
ktiment of
fnevolent»
at Bolche-
e offeding
our lodg-
ng to the
the male
itft cloths,
the houfe,
lelancholy
al, in that
lends. In
nmandei's
f the gar-
^hm, at-
1 long filk
[Ferent co-
irance.

was pre-
, accom-
bng with
vc had ta/-
er of the
lofpitality
affcfted
dition wc
y gave us
oat ; and
ft time wc
faw

5^;

fiiw oyr friendly entertainers, they took their farcwel
in another cheer.

On the return of the pai-ty to Perropaulowfka, tiiejr
\vcre accompanied by major Behm, who had refigned
the government of Kamtfchatka to his fecond in com-
mand, and. was to proceed thence to Okot/k, in his
way to Peteriburgli. They arrived at Pctropaulowlka
on the 23d; and Capt. Gierke, and his men, did not
fail to behave with all the refpe£l to the major, which
his noble conduct had merited. The various curiofitit3
that hud been collected in the courfe of the voyage
were Ihewn to him, and a complete affortment ofevery
article prefented to him by Capt. Gierke.

On this occafion, t mufl not pafs over iln inftaiice
of great generofity and gratitude in the failors of
both (liips ; who, when they were told of the haiid-
fome prefent of tobacco that was made them by the
major, defired, entirely of their own accord, that their
grog might be flopped, and their allowance of fpirits
prefented, on their part, to the garrifon of Bolcheretlk,
as they f>iid they had reafon to conclude that brandy
was fearce in the country, and would be very accepta-
ble to them, fmce the foldiers on (hore had offered four
roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew how much the
failors always felr, whenever their allow iince of grog was
flopped, which was generally done in warm weather,
than they mighc have it in greater proportion in cold,
and that this cfftr would deprive thtm of it during the
inclement feafon we had ro expect in our next ejcpedf-
tion to the North, cov.Ll not Init aclmsre (o (^vtruorJi •
nary a facrifice ; and that they might not fuifer by it,
Gapt. Gierke, and the reft of the officers, fubflituted
in the room of the very fmall quantity the miijor could
be prevailed on to accept, the fame quantity of rum.
This, with a dozen or two of Cape wine, for Madame
Numb. 25 D d d d Behm,

598

Captain Cook's third- Voyage

Behm, and fuch other ilttle prefents as were in out
power to beftow, were accepted in the moft obliging
manner. The next morning the tobacco was divided
between the crews of the two fhips, three poimds
being allotted to every man that chewed, or
fmokcd tobacco, and only one pound to thofe that did
not*

Major Behm now offered to charge himfelf with any
difpatches we might trufl to his care. This was aii
opportunity not to be ncglefted ; and accordingly Cap-
tain Gierke acquainted him, thit he would take the li-
berty of fending by him fome papers, relating to our
voyage, to be delivered to our ambaflador at the Ruffian
court. Our firft intentions were to fend only a fmall
journal of our proceedings ; but afterwards, Captain
Clerke being perfuaded that the whole account of our
difcoveries might fafely be trufted to a pcrfon who had
given fuch ftriking proofs both of his public and pri-
vate virtues ; and confidering that we had a hazard-
ous part of the voyage ftill to undertake, determined
to fend, by him, the whole of the journal of our late
Commander, with that part of his own, M'hich com-
pleted the period from Capt. Cook's death, till our ar-
rival at Kamtfchatka; together with the chart of all
our difcoveries. Mr. Bayly and m) felf thought it alfo
proper to fend a general account of our proceedings
to the board of longitude ; by which precautions, if
any misfortune had afterward befallen us, the Admi-
ralty would have been in poffcffion of a complete hif-
tory of the principal fafts of our voyage. It was alfo
determined, that a fniallcr pacquet fliould be fcnt by an
cxprcfs from Okot/k, which, the major faid, if he was
fortunate enough in his paffage td that port, would
reach Peteriburg by Dec. and that he himfelf ftiould be
there in Feb. or March*

during

AGE

re in GUI'
obliging
s divided
e politids
wed, or
: that did

with any
lis was ail
ngly Cap-
ke the li-
ng to our
lie Ruffian
!y a fmall
i, Captain
nt of our
1 who had
c and pri-
a hazard-
fetermintd
f our late
hich coin-
ill our ar-
art of all
ght it alfo
occedings
lutions, if
he Admi-
nlctc hif-
was alfo
cut by an
if he was
rt, v\ ould
ftiould be

during

Round the World.

599

During the three following days, the major was en-
tertained alternately in the two {hips, in the beft man-
ner we were able. On the 25th he took his leave, and
was faluted with 13 guns; and the failors, at their
own defirc, gave him three cheers. The next morning
Mr. Webber and myfelf, attended him a few miles up
the Awat/ka river, where we met the Ruffian prieft, his
wife and children, who were waiting to take the laft
farewel of their oommandcr.

It was liard to fay, whether the good priefl: and his
family, or ourfclves, were mod afFe^ed on taking our
leave- of major Behm. Short as our acquaintance had
been, his noble and difinterefted conduft had infpired
us with the higheft cfteem for him ; and we could not
part with a pcrfon to whom we were under fuch obli-
gations, and whom we had little profpe^l of ever fee-
ing again, without feeling the moft tender concern.
The intrinfic value of the private prefents we received
from him, exclufive of the (lores which might be carri-
ed to a public account, muft have amounted, according
to the current price of articles in that country, to up-
wards of 300I. But this generofity, extraordinary as
it may appear in itfelf, was exceeded by the delicacy
with which all his favours were conferred, and the
artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our
feeling the weight of obligations, which he knew we
had no means of requiting. If we go a ftep further,
and confider him as fupporting a public charadler, and
maintaining the honour of a great Sovereign, we fhall
find a flill higher fubjeft of admiration, in the juft and
enlarged fentiments by which he was actuated. The
fervice in which you are eraployed,^ he would often fay,
is for the general advantage of mankind, and there-
fore gives you a right, not merely to the offices of hu-
manity, but to the privileges of citizens, in whatever
CQuntry you may be throwii. I am fure I am aiTcing a-.

greeably

Cto Captain Cook's third Vovaoe

greeably to the wifties of my miftrefs, in a^Fortling
you all the relief in my power ; and I cannot forget
(either her charafter, or my own honour, fo much, as
IQ barter for the performance of ^ duty.

At other times, he would tcl! us, that he was partir
cularly dcfirous of fctting a good example to the Kamtr
fchadales, who, he faid, were but jult cmer^jing from
a ftate of barbarifm ; that they looked up to the RuG'
fians as their pattern in every thing j and that he had '
hopes they might, in future, look upon it as a duty in-
cumbent upon them to affilt ftrangers to the utmdil of
their power, and believe, that fuch was the uniyerfal
pradlice of civilized nations. To all this muft be added,
that, after haying relieved, to the utmoft of his abili-
ties, all our prefent diflrtfles, he (hewed himfelf no
lefs mindful of our future wants j and as he fuppofcd
it more than probable we fliould not difcover the paf-
fage we were in fcarch of, and therefore fl^ould return
to Kamtfchatka in the fiill of :he year } be madeCapt.
Gierke give him a liO: of what cordage and flour we
ihould want, and promifed they (hould be fent from
Okotik, and wait our arrival. For the fame purpofe,
lie gave Capt. Gierke, a paper, enjoining all the fubr
je£ls,of theEmprefs, whom we might happen to meet,
to give us every aAKlaiicc in their power.

On our fir ft arrival, we found the Ruffian hofpltalg
which is near the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a
condition truly deplorable. ^\\ the foldiers were, more
or lefs alFcrfted by (he fcurvy, and a great many in the
lafl ftage of that diforder. The reft of the FLuflian
inhabitants were alfo in the fame condition ; and we
particularly remarked, that oijr friend the ferjeant, by
fpak-ing t<io free with the fpirits vft gave him, had
jjrought Oil himfelf, in the courfc of a few days, fome
-of the moll alarming fymptoms of that malady. In
. - ■■ '' '■ • • thi§

[3U

Round the W o r. l d.

60 1

•. II

affo riling
)t forget
iiuch, as

VAS partir
he Kamt^
>ing from

the RuG-
u he had '
a duty hi-
utmoil of

uniyerfal
be' added,

his abili-
imfelf no
; fuppofcd
r the paf-
tild return
lade Capt.

flour we

ent from
purpofe,
the fubr
n to meet/

1 hofpitalg

?aul, in a

^ere, more

any in the

He Ruflian

and we

rjeant, by

him) had

aySf fome

lady. In

thi^

this lamentable date, Captain Gletke put them all un-
der the care ot ths furgeons, and ordered a fupply of
four krout^ and malt for wort, to be furinlhed for
tlieir ule. It was aftonifhing to obfcrvc the aheration
ill the figures of almoft every perfon we met on our re-
turn from Bjlcheretlk ; and I was informed, by our
furgeons, that they attributed their fpeedy recovery:
principally to the eftedls of thefweet wort.

After feveral attempts to clear the Bay of Awalfl<a,
Captain Clerke finally left it on the l6th of June, (leer-
ing to the N. N. E. We cannot follow him in all thi
tackings, and nautical circumllances that occurred, in
his various attempts to go to the North, between the
two continents : they were obftru£l:ed by impenetrable
ice. During their voyage they had fometirnesan op-
portunity to hoift out their boats, and fend them m
purfuit of the fea-horfes, which were in great num-
l^ers on the pieces of ice that furrounded us. The peo-
ple were more fuccefsful than they had been before,
returning with three large ones, and a young one j be-
Tides killing and wounding feveral fjihers. The gen-
tlemen who went on this party were witnefTes of feve-
ral remarkable inftances of parental afl'^Jlion in thofe
animals. On the approach of the? boats towards the
»ce, they all took their cubs under their fins, and en-
deavoured to efcape with them into the lea. Several,
whofe young were killed or wounded, and left floating
oh the furface, rofe again, and carried them down,
fomctimes as our people were Igoing- to take them up
into the boats ; and might be traced bearing them to a
great diftance through the water, which was coloured
with their blood : they were after »vard obferved bring-
ing them, at times, above the furface, as if for air,
and again diving under it with a dreadful bellowing.
The female, in particular, whofe young had been de-
ftroyed, and taken into the boat, became fo enraged,

that

6o?

Captain Gooji's third Voyage

that (he attaclced the cutter, and flruck her two tudcs
through the bottom of it.

/Another remarkable circumllance that was obF^vved
during this attempt to go to the North, was in. urdlic
guirs diTgufting mode oF feeding, which has procured
it the name of the parafite, and which, if the reader is
not already acquainted with it, will find in thi folio vt
manner : This bird, which is lomcwhat larger than the
conwi^op gull, purfues the latter kind v/henever it mectts
them t the gull, a,ft€r flying for fonie time, with loud
fcreams, and evidtnt marks of great terror, drops its
dung, which its purfuer im«^i-diately dans at, and
catches before it fails into the fea.

Captain Clerks was unablfi to proceed farther North
than latitude yo deg. ^ii min. which v-as five league*
ihort of the pgint to which they had advanced laft fjsar
fon. At length, on the 21JI qf July it was perceived,
that one conne<Jled> (olid piece of ice, rendered fruit-
lefs every effort to a nearer approach to the American
continent, and joining, as it was fuppofed, to it, they
took a laft fare w el to the North Eaft paflage to Old
Englanc! ; dj/Lerminnl, hovvevcr, to explore the coaft
of Afia, in ordci? to i'uccecd, if pcllible, to the North
Weft.

But in this attempt they were equally unfuccefsful %,
and, on the 22d, the wind kept driving the luofe pie-*
ces of ice upon them in TuqIi quantities, that they V{t\%
in manifeft dang<'r of being blocked up by thenv

In the morning of the 23(^, the cUaj- water, in whicf^
we cQAtmued toftand f; it- .cl, fro, did not exceed a mile
and a half, and was ey'-ry inftantlelTening. At length,
after uling our utmoft Lndeavours to clear the loofe ice,
we were driven to the neccflity of forcing a pafifage to

the

'-*^'**^^

Round the World.

6oj

o tuiks

.: ardic
rociued
»ader is
folio v«^
ban the
it mests
th loud
rops its
at, and

;r North
league?
laft fga-
irccived,
2d fruit-
merican
it, they
: to Old
le coaft
North

fstul

|ofe pie-^
sy y(ei:q

p whicl^
Id a mile-
length,
)ofe ifie,
|flagQ to
the

the Southward, which, at half pad feven^ we accom-
plilhed, but not without fuhjedling the (hip to fome ve^
ry fevere (hecks. The Difcovery was lefs fuccefsful.
For, at eleven, when they had nigh got clear out, (he*
became fo entangled by leveral large pieces, that her
way was flopped, and immediately dropping bodily to
leeward, (he fell, broadfide foremcft, on the edge of a
confidcrable body of ice ; and having, at the fame
time, an open fea to windward, the furf ciufed her
to ftrike violently upon it. This mafs at length either
fo far broke, or mored, as to fet them at liberty to
make another trial to efcape j but, unfortunately, be-
fore the (liip gathered way enough to be under com-
mand, (he again fell to leeward on another fragment;
and the fwell making it unfafe to lie tt) windward, and
finding no chance of getting clear, they pu(hed into a
fmall opening, furled their iaiis, and made fafl with
ice-hooks.

In this dangerous fituation vve faw them at noon, a-
bout three iiailes from us, bearing N. W. a fre(h gale
from the S. F. driving more ice to the N. W. and in-
creafmg the body that lay between us. Our lat. by
account, was 69 deg. 8 min. the Jong. 187 deg. and the
depth ot water 28 fathoms. To add to the gloomy
apprehenfions which began to force themfelves on us, at
half pad four in the afternoon, the weather becoming
thick and hazy, we lofl: fight of the Difcovery ; but
that we might be in a fituation to afford her every af-
fiftance in our power, \ve kept (landing on clofe by
the edge of the ice.

At fix, the wind happily coming round to the North,
gave U3 ibme hoptB, tliattiK: kc iniglit c.ift nv/uy iiud
rcleafe ker ; and in that cafe, it was uncertain in what
coiidition fhe might come c)Ut, We kfept firing a ^uti
every half hour, iu order to prevent a reparation. Our

apprehenlions

6o4 CAP.tAiN Cook's T MI Ri) VovArift

apprehcnfions for her Aifety did "ot ccafe till niiir^
wheu we heard her guns in anlwer to ours; and fooii
after, beinpt hailed by her, were informed, that npoil
change of the wind the ice bei^ati ro fepuratc ; and
that, fctting all their fails^ they forced a palfage thro'
it. Wg learned farther, that whilll they were encom-
paffed by ir, they found the fliip driit, with the main
bod)% to the N. E. at the rate of half a mile an houn
We were forry to find,- that the Difcovery had rubbed
off a great deal of her iheathing from th« bows, and
was become very leaky, from the flrokes (he had re-
ceived when (he fell upon the cd^e of the ice.

On the i7th, the damages which the Difcovery had
received were found to be of fuch a nature as would re-
quire ^ weeks to repair, and render it neceifary to retirfc
into fome portjfor that purpofc. Thus, finding a farther
advance to the Northward j as well as a nearer ap-
proach to cither continent, obftru^ted by a fea block-
ed up with ice, we Judged it both injurious to the fcr-
vice, by endangering the fafety of the fliips, as well as
a fruitlefs, with refpc^ to the dcfign of oiir voyage^
to make any further attempts towards a pailage.

This, therefore, added to the reprefentation of Capr*
Gore, determined Capt. Gierke not to lofe more time
in what he concluded to be an unattainable objeft,
but to fail for Awatlka Bay, to repair our damages
there ; and before the winter (hould fet in, and
render all other efforts towards difcovery im-
practicable at this time, to explore the coafl of
Japan.

I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brighten-
ed the countenance of every individual, as foon as
Capt. Gierke's rcfolmions were made known. We

were

a ft

Round thb World.

66$

ill viine)
ud fooii
lat upon
Ltc ; and
Lge thro'
; encom-
the iniiin
an hour;
d rubbed
)W8, and
had rt-

Were all heartily fick of a navigation full of danger,
and in which the ntmoft pcrfevcrancc had not been re-
rcpaid with the fmallcft fuccefs. We therefore turned
otir faces tow'ards home, after ao abfence of three
years, with a delight and faiisfaftion, which, nbtwlth-
ftanding the tedious voyage we had ftill to ftiake, and
the immenlc diftance wc had to run, were as freely en-
tertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had
been already in fight of the Land*s-end.

>ver) had
would rc-
y to retirfc
I a farther
rarer ap-
fea block-
to the fcr-
as well as
r voyage^

of Capti

more time

; objeft,

damages

in, and

very irn-

coall of

brighten-
foon as
We
were

wn.

J';

B. O O K III.

C H A P. X.

Return to Kamtfcatka — 'Death of Capt. Gerkc— An
account of his fcrvices— Anchor in the harbour of
St. Peter and St. Paul — Funeral of Capt. Gierke-^
Departure ftom Awatfka Bay — Capt. King fent to
Canton — Arrival at (he Cape of Good Hope— At the
Orneys i and at the Nore'^-Concluding refle<5lions.

VTAVING taken a final leave of the N. E. coafi: of
jTl Afia, they arrived, on the 21ft of Aug. 1779,
\vithin fight of the coaft of Kamtfchatka. On the 22d,
at nine in the nnorning, departed this life Capt. Charles
Clerke, in the 38th year of his age. He died of a
confumption, which had evidently cornmenccd before

E c e e he

6q6

Captain Cook's tHird Voyage

he left England, and of which he had lingered during
the whole voyage. His very gradual dec^iy had long
made him a melancholy ohjedl to his friends ; yet the
equanimity \sith which he bore it, the conilant flow of
good fpirits, which coniinued tp the lad hour, and a
cheaiful refignation to his fate, aiforded them fome
Gonfolation. It was imponible not to feel a more than
common degree of companion for a perfon, whofe life
had been a continued fcene of thole difiBculties and
haidlhips, to which a Teaman's occupation is fubjeft,
and under which he at lail funk. He was brought up
to the navy from his earlieft youih, and had been in
fevcral adtions during the war began in 1756, particu-
larly i-n that between the Bellona and Courageux, where
being Rationed in the pizen-top, he was carried over-
board with the mad, but was taken up without having
received any hurt. He was midlhipman in the Dol-
phin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on h&r firft
voyage round the world, and afterwards fervcd on the
American (lation.

In 1768, he made his fecond voyage round the
world, in the Endeavour, as mailer's mate, and by the
promotion, which took place during the expedition,
he returned a lieutenant. His third voyage round the
world was in the Relolution, of which he was appoint-
ed the fecond lieutenant ( and foon after his return, in
17/5, he was promoted to the rank of mafter and
commander. When the prefent expedition was ordered
to be fitted out, he was appointed to the Difcovery, to
accompany Capt. Cook, and by the death of the latter,
fucceeded, as has been already ipentioned, to the chief
' command.

It would be doing his memory extreme injuftice hot

to fiiy, that during the.ftiort time the. expedition was

' under his dire^iou, he wai molt zealous and anxious

for

Round the W o r i, d,

607

for its fucccfs. His health, about the time the princi-
pal command devolved upon him, began to recline ve-
ry rapidly, and was every way unequal to encounter
the rigours of a high Northern climate. Bur the vi -
gour and adlivity of his mind had, in no (hape, fufFer-
ed by his body ; and though he knew, that by delay-
ing his return to a warmer climate, he was giving up
the only chance that remained for his recovery, yet,
careful and jealous to the laft degree, that a regard to
his own fituation (hould never bias his judgment to the
prejudice of the fervice, he perfevercd in the fcarch of
a paflage, till it was the opinion of every Officer in
both fliips, that it was imprafticable, and tliat any fur-
ther attempts would not only be fruitlefs, but dangerr
ous.

On the 24th, the refolution entered the harbour of
St. Peter and St. Paul, with the cnfign half ftaff up, on
account of their carrying the body of their late Captain.
The Difcovery followed foon attcr.

We had no fooner anchored, than our old friend,
the ferjcant, who was flill the Commander of the place,
came on board with a prefent of berries, intended for
our poor deceafed Captain. He was extremely afFeft •
ed when we told him of his death, and (hewed him the
coffin th?it contained his body. And as it was Captain
Gierke's particular requeft to be buied on (hore, and^
if poifible, in the church of Paratounca, we took the
prefent opportunity of explaining this matter to the
Serjeant, and confulting with him about the proper
fteps to be taken on the occafion. In the courfe of our
converfation, which, f©r want oi an interpreter, was
carried on but impcrfeftly, \ye learned that ProfelTor
de l*Ifle, and feveral Ruffian gentlemen, who died here,
had been buried in the ground near the barracks, at
\hc Oftrog of St. Peter and St. Paul's j aiid that this

ioB

Captain Cook's third Voyaob

place would be preferable to Faratounca, as the church
was to be removed thither the next year. It was there-
fore determined, that we fliould wait for the arrival of
the Pricft of Paratounca, whom the fcrjcant advifcd us
to fend for, as the only pcrfon that covdd fatisfy our
inquiries on thi$ fubjc^l.

In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out
the new commiflioni, in confequence of Captain Cif^rkc's
death ; appointing himfcif to the command of the Re-
folution, and me to the command of the Difcovery,
The fame day we were vifiied by the Pope Romanolf
Vcrcfliagen, the worthy Pricll of Paratounca. He ex-
pvefFcd his forrovv at the death of Captain Gierke in a
manner that did honour to his feelings, and confirmed
the account given by the Serjeant rcfpefting the in-
tended removal of the church to the harbour •, adding,
that the timber was aftually preparing, but leaving the
choice of tithcr place entirely to Captain Gore.

In the afternoon of the 19th, the laf I offices were
paid to Captain Gierke. The officers and men of both
fhips walked in proceffion to the grave, whilft the ihips
fired minute-guns ; and the feryice being ended, the
marines fired three voilies. He was interred under a
lice, wh'ch ftauds on a rifing ground, in the valley to
the North fide of the harbour, where the hofpiial and
(tore-houfes arcfituated^ Captiin Gore having judged
this fKuation moft agreeable to the laft wifties of the de*
ceafed, for thercafons above-mentioned ;.and thcPrieil
of Paratounca having pointed out a fpot for his grave,
which, he faixl, would be as near as he could guefs,
in ilie center of the new church. This reverend Paftor
walked in the proceffion, along with the gentleman who
read the fervicc, and all the Ruffians in the garrifon
were affcir.blcii, and attended with great refpcft and
jblemftity,

Round the World.

60^

ler d.

»ricft
rave,
juefs,
luftor
who
Irifon
and

On the 30th of September, Captain Core went to
Piiratounca, to put up in the church there an cfcut-
cheon, prepared by Mr. Webber, wich an infcripiion
upon it, ftttiup; forth Captain Clcrkc's age and rank,
and the objc^l: of the expedition in which lic was en-
cased at the time of his dcceafe. A board, with an
nifcription upon it to the fame effect, was alfo affixed
to the tree under which he was buried.

Its here proper to obferve, that from the 24th of Aug.
when the (hips firft entered the harbour of St. Peter and
St. Paul, to the 19th of 051. when they finally cleared
Awatflva bay, was employed in the necelfary repairs of
both (hips, in the procuring of a proper fupply of pro-
vifions and naval (lores, and occahonally, in various
amufements on ihore, and the reciprocal exchange of
civiUties between the Captains of the two (hips, and
the new commander of Bolcherctflc. Before we pro-
ceed on the vuyagft it mud be farther noticed that
the inftruAions from the Board of Admiralty having
left a difcretionary power with the commanding ofhcer
of the expedition, in cafe of faiktre in fearch of a paf-
fage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return
to England, by whatever route he f^iould think beft for
the farther improvement of Geography \ Capt. Gore
demanded of the principal oHicers their feniiments, in
writing, refpc<Sting the manner in which thefe orders
might moil effedlually be obeyed. The rcfulc of their
opinions, which he had the fatisfadion to find unani-
mous, and entirely coinciding with his own, was,
that the condition of the (hips, as well as of the fails
and cordage, made it unfafe to attempt, at fo advanced
a feafon of the year, to navigate the fea between
Japan and Afia i which would othcrwife have
afforded the largeft field for difcovery ; that it
was therefore advif?able to keep to the Eaftward of
tlij^t iftaftd, j»nd in the way thither to run along the

Kuriles,

7~*

610 • Captain Cook's third Voyage

Kunles, and examine more particularly the iflands that
lie neareft the northern coaft of Japan, >^hich are re-
prelented as of a confiderable fize, and independant of
the Ruflfian arid Japanefe governments. If fo fortunate
as to fiind in thefe any fafe and.comm-idious harbours,
it was conceived they might be of importance, either
as places of (helter for any future navigators, who may
be employed in exploring the feas, or as the means of
opening a commercial intercourfe among the neigh-
bouring dominions of the two empires. The nextob-
je6l was to furvcy the coaft of the Japanele iflands,
and afterwards to make the coaft ot China as far
to the Northward as polTiblc, and t» rqn alon^ it to
Macao. ,

This place being adopted, Captain King received or-
ders from Captain Gore, in cafe of reparation, to pro-
ceed to Macao ; and at fix o'clock in the evening of the
9th of October, as before obferved, Having cleared the
entrance of Awatlka Bay, they fleered to the. South,
along the coaft of Kamtfchatka-

On the 1 2th they came in fight of Cape Lopatka, the
Southerraoft extremity Kamtfchatka, lying in lat. 51
deg. long. 156 deg. 45 min. At the -fame time, they
faw the firft of the Kurile Iflands, called Shoomaika,
and, on the 13th, the fecond, named Paramoufir, which
is the largcft of the Kuriles under the dominions of the
Ruffians. On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing
fteadily and frefhfrom the Weftward, they were obli-
ged to ftand to the Southward, and confequently pre-,
vented from feeing any more of the Kurile Iflauds,

Tliis chain of Iflands, running in a South Weft di^
reftion, from t!u; (outhern promontory of Kamtfchatfka
to Japan, extending from lat. 51 deg. to 45 min. is
galled the Kuriles, from the inhabitants of the neigh-

bourhoqd

Round the World.

6ii

inds that
h are re-
ndant of
Fortunate
larbours,
:e, either
who may
means of
e neigh-
; next ob-
e iflands,
na as far
mz it to

:eived or-
, to pro-
ing of the
eared the
le. South,

atka, the
in lat. 51
ime, they
oomafka,
F, which
3ns of the
1 blowing
/ere obli-
:nt]y pre-
luds.

Wcftdi^
itfchatfka
[.5 min. is
le neigh-

30urhoq4

bourhood of Lopatka, gave their own name to thefe
iflands, on fivft becoming acquainted with them. They
are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in number,
without reckoning the very fmall ones. The Nc' ^nern -
mofl, called Shoomika, is not more than three leagues
from the promontory Lopatka, and its inhabitants arc
a mixture of natives and Karatfchadalesi The next to
the South, called Paramoufir, is inhabited by the true
natives ; their anceftors, according to a tradition among
thcni, having come from an ifland a little farther to
the South, called Onecutan.

Thofe two iflands were fi'ft vifited by the Ruffians in
1713, and at the fame time brought under their domi-
nion. The others in order, are at prefent made tribu-
tary down to Oofliefheer inclufive, as Mr. King was in-
formed by the worthy paftor of Paratounca, who is
their millionary, and vifits them once in three years,
and fpeaks oi the iflanders in terms of the higheft com-
n?endation, reprefenting them as a friendly, hofpitable,
generous, humane race of people, and excelling their
Kamtfchadale neighbours, not lefs in the formation of
their bodies, than in docility and quicknefs of undcr-
flanding. Though Oofliefheer is the fouthetnmoft ifland
that the Ruffians have yet brought under their domi-
nions, yet they trade to Ooroop, which is the eighteenth i
and where there is a good harbour for fliips of burthen.
Beyond this, to the South, lies Nadeegfda, which was
reprefented |>y the Ruffians, as inhabited by a race ut
men remarkably hairy, and v. ho^ like thofe of Ooroop,
live in a date of entire independence.

In the fame direjflion, but inclining fomewha: more
to the Weftward, lie a group of iflands, which the Ja-
panefe call Jefo, a name ^ hich they alfo give to the
whole chain of Iflands between Kamtfchatka and Ja-
pan. The fouthernmod, calld Matmai, hath bsen long

fubjea

( .

i.;

6i2

Captain Cook's Tiiikt) Voyace

11 )

:■ n.

fubjc(5l to the ]apanefc, and is formed and garrifoned
on the fide towards the continent. The two iflands to
the N. E. of Matmai, Kunachir, and Zellany, and like-
wife the three ftill farther to the N. Ei called the Three
Sifters, are perfcdlly independent.

From this accoun; of the Kurile illands, it was a
great mortification tO our navigators, to find themfelves
obliged, on the 24th, to give up all farther thoughts of
difcovery to the North of Janpan ; the wind forfome
days paft having continued quite unfavourable to their
views. Capt. King^ however, has enriched his account
of this part of their tranfadlions, with feveral obferva-
tions on the errors of former geographers.

In coHfequence of this difappointment, Capt. Gore
fliaped his courfe Weit South Weft for the North part
of Japan. At day-break,, on the 26th, they had the
pirafure of feeing high land to the Weftward, which
proved to be that ifland ; along the Eaft coaft of which
"they run, (experiencing fome unexpefted efftiSls of the
currents) till the 2d of November, when the threaten-
iiTg appijarances of a fudden and fevere gale made it pru*
dent ra leave the (bore, and ftand off to the E'^ward,
to prevent being entangled with the land. Nor were
wrong in our prognoftications ; for it foon afterwards
began, and continued till next day. to blow a heavy
gale, accompanied with hazy and rainy weather*

. In the morning of the tliird, we found ourfelves, by
our reckoning, upwards of fifty leagues from the land,
which circumftance, together with the very extraordi-
nary efft ft of currents before mentioned, the late fea-
(qiy of the year, the unfettled ftate of the weather,
and the Httfe hkelihood of any change for the better,
rtiade Capt. Gore rcfolvc to leave Japan altogether, and
profeeutt our voyage to China j hoping, that as the

track

arrifoned
iilands to
and like-
he Three

it was a
lemfclves
oughts of
, for feme
e to their
s account
I obfcrva-

ipt. Gofe
forth part
y had the
rd, which
I: of which
<as of the
threaten -
ide it pru*
Edward,
Nor were
if fer wards
w a heavy
ither*

felves, by
1 the land,
extraordi-
: late fea-
weather,
he better,
:ther, and
lat as the
track

Round the \V o r i> d.

613

track he meant to purfue had never yet been explored,
he fhould be able to make amends by fome new difco-
very, for the difappointments we had met with on this
coaft.

If the reader (hould be of opinion that we quitted
this objedl too haitily, in addition to the fac^s already
llatcd, it ought to be remarked, that Kaempfcr defcribes
the coaft of Japan as the moft dangerous in the whole
world; and that it would have been equally dangerous,
in cafe of diflrefs, to run into any of their harbours ;
where we know, from the beft authorities, that the
averfion of the inhabitants to any .intercourfe with
ftrangers, has led them to commit the moft attrocious
barbarities ; that our fhips were in a leaky condition ;
that our fails were worn out, and unable to withftand
a gale of wind ; and that the rigging was fo rotten as
to require conftant and perpetual repairs.

On th? 14th, they difcovercd an ifland, about £vc
miles long, lying in lat. 24 dcg. 48 min. long. 141 deg,
12 min. 0:i the iSouth point of this is a high barren
hill, whifh evidently prefented a volcanic crater. The
earth, rock, or fand (for it was not eafy to dillinguifh
of which its furface is compofed) exhibited various co-
lours ; and a confiderable part was conjectured to be
fulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the
ftrcny fiilphurous fmell, perceived as they approached
n? ;) ^int J iind forae thought they faw fteams rifing from
■ r ic^ of the hill; From thefe circumftances Cipr.
o<; f give it the name of Sulphur Ifland. Two other
iflands v/erc likcvvife difcovered ; the one to the N. and
the other to the S. of Sulphur ifland.

Capt. Gore now ftecred his courfc for the Baftiee
iflands. Thefe they miffed, and on the 28th, paffcd
the ifland of Prata. On the 30th, they ran along the

F f f f Lema

t» * wm

614 Captain Cook's third~ Voyage

Lema ifles, of which they had the fame view as rcpre-
fented in a plate of Lord Anfon's voyage. They alfo
paded the rock marked R, in Lord Anfon*s plate ; but
mftead of hauling up to the Northward of the Grand
Ladrone ifland, as was done by the Centurion, they
proceeded to leeward, a courfe againft which. Capt.
King has cautioned the mariners.

Two Chinefc pilots were now taken on board the Re-
folution ; and they finally anchored in the Tpya, near
the road of Macao, on the 2d of Dec. Here we re-
ceived the firil intelligence of the war. Hence, on the
nth, Capt. King took palTage, not without many pre-
vious difficulties, to Canton, in order to expedite a
fupply of nav. ^yrf-.% for the fliips. Although he ar-
rived here on tii. ^ ";h, various delays prevented the
accomplifhment of this bufmefs till the 26th.

On the ayih he left Canton, and took a paffage down
the river Tygris to Macao, where he arrived the next
day. Befides a handfomc prcfcnt of tea, which Capt.
King received from the EnglKh fupercargoes at Canton,
he mentions as a valuable acquifition, a large colle<5lion
of our periodical publications, which both ferved to
amufc their impatience during their tedious voy-
age home, and enabled them to return no total
Grangers to what had been tranfa£ting in their native
country.

While the ftiips lay in the Typa, Capt. King was
(hewn, in a garden belonging to an Engiilh gentleman
at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there
goes, the poet Camocns ufed to fit and compofe his
Lufiad. It is a lofty arch of one folid ftone, and forms
the entrance of a grotto dug out of the rifing ground
behind it. The rock is overfliadowed by large
fpreading trees, and commands an extenfivc and

magniilcent

s rcpre-
hey alfo
tci but
2 Grand
in, they
:h. Capt.

I the Re-

ya, near
e we re-
;, on the
nany pre-
cpedite a
gh he ar-
inted the

fage down
the next
ich Gapt.
u Canton,
colle^lion
fervcd to
lous voy-
no total
eir native

King was
gentleman

ion there
mpofe his
and forms
ig ground

by large
tifivc and

agniiicent

Round the World.

6i5

magnificent view of the fea, and the intcrfperfed
iflands.

Capt. Gore, previous to his departure from Macao,
put both the (hips in a very refpe£lable ftate of defence,
but having received undoubted intelligence, that orders
had been iffued b^^ the French court, and alfo by the
American Congrefs, to all their commanders, not to mo-
hfl: the ihips that fafled under Capt, Cook, he though
himfclf bound, in return, to obferve an exa£l tieutrality
during the remainder of the voyage.

On the 13th of Jan, 1780, Capr, Gore left the Typa,
and on the 1 6th, paffed the iiland of Sapata. On the
2oth, they anchored in an harbour on the S. W. end
of the ifland Gondore, in order to procure a fupply of
wood and provifions. Here it was found advifeablc
that a party fliould go in the boat and land. While
fomc of the men remained with Capt. Gore, in the
boat, Capt. King and an armed party proceeded thro'
the woods till they came near two huts. On approach-
ing them, they were defcried by two men, who imme«
diately ran away, notwithftanding all the peaceable and
l^upplicating gefturcs that could be devifed.

On reaching the huts, I ordered the party to (lay
without, left the light of fo many armed men Qiould
terrify the inhabitants,^ whilft. I entered, and reconnoi-*
tred alone. I found in one of the huts an elderly man,
who was in a great fright, and preparing to make off
with the moft valuable of his cffeAs that he could carry.
However, I was fortunate enough,, ip a very little
time, (b intirely to difpel his fears, that, he came out,
and called to the two men who were running, away ta
return. The old man and I foon, came a to perfeft un-
derftanding. A few figns, particularly that moft figni-
§can( of holding out a handful of dollars, and then.

pointing^

6i6 CAPTAiN Cook's third" Voyage

pointing to a herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that
were running about the huts in great numbers, left him
.without any doubts as to the real obje<?ts of my vifit.
He pointed towards a place where the town ftood, and
made me comprehend, that by going thither, all my
wants would be fupplied. Bv this time the young men,
who had fled, were returneci, and the old man ordered
one of them to conduct me to the town, a? foon as an
obftacle Ihould be removed, of which we were not a-
warc. On our firft coming out of the wood, a herd of
buffaloes, to the number of twenty at leaft, came run-
ning towards us, toffm up their heads, fnuffmg the
air, aiid roaring in a hitieous manner. They had fol-
lowed us to the huts, and ftood drawn up in a body, at
a little diflance ; and the old man made us underftand,
that it would be exceeding dangerous for us to move,
till they were driven into the woods ; but fo enraged
were the animals grown at the fight of us, that this
was not effe£i:ed without a preat deal of time and difH

culty. The men, not being able to accomplifh it, we
were furprifed to fee them call to their affiftancc a few
little boys, who fodn drove them out of fight.

Afterv/ard we had occafion to obferve, that in driv.
ing thefc animals, and fecuring them, which is done
by putting a lopc through a hole which is made in their
noftrils, Ihtlc boys were always employed, who could
flroke and handle them with impunity, at times when
the men diirft not approach the^l,

Our vifit to the town ended in the purchafc of a
number of Imffalocs. Early in the morning of the
23d, the launches of both (hips were feiit to the town,
to fetch the biffaloes we had parchafed; but they were
obliged to wait till it was high water, as they could at
no ether time get through the opening at the head of
the hurbqur. On their arrival at the village, they

' ^fr'-'i

R o \J N p THE World.

617

found the furf breaking cm the beach with fuch force,
that it was witli tlie ntmoft difficulty each launch
brougt a bufTaioc on board in the evening; and the
officers, who were fent on this fervice, gave it as their
opinion, that between the violence of the furf, and the
fiercenefs of the buffiiloes, it would be extreamly im-
prudent to attempt bringing any more off in this way.
We had pijrchafeJ. eight, and were now at a lofs in
wliat manner to proceed to get them on board. AVe
could kill no mure than what was nifl neceffary for the
confumption of one day, as in this climate meat will
not keep till the next. At lad it v/as concluded, that
the remaindei fhouUl be driven through the wood, and
over the bill down to the bay, where Capt. Gore and
I'had liinded the day before, which being Iheltercd
from the wind, was more free from furf. This plan
was accordingly put in execution ; but the untraftable
and prodigious ftrength of the buffaloes, rendered it a
tedious and difficult operation.

■ The method of conducing them was, by paffing
ropes through their noftrils, and round their lioirns ;
but having been once enraged at the figlit of our men,
they became fo furious, that they fometimes broke the
trees, to which we were often under tlie ncceffity of
tying them ; fometimes they tore afunder the cartilage
of the noftril, through which the ropes ran, and got
loofe.

On thefe occafions, all tHe exertions of our men, to
recover them, would have been inefl '6lual, without
the affiilance of fome young boys, whom thefe animals
would permit to approach them, and by whofe little
managements their rage was foon appeafed. And when
at icnght they were got down to the beach, it was by
their aid, in twilling ropes round their legs, in the
^lianner they were dire<fted, that we were enabled to

throw

6i8 Captain Cook's third Voyaoi

■r

throw them down, s^qd by that means to get them into
the boats*

A circumftance, refpcfting thcfe aaimals, which I
thought no Icfs fingular than this gciitlenefs toward,
and, as[ it fhould feem, aiTc^ion fox mclc childreUj; was,
that they had not been 24 hours on hoard, before they
becaihd the tamed of all creatures, I kept two of them,
^ male and female, for a confiderable time, which be-
came great fiivourites with the failors, and, thinking
that a breed of animals of fuch (trength and fize, (on^e
of them weighing, when ■ drcfled, yoolb, would be a
valuable acquifition, I was inclined to have brought
them with me to England ; but my intention was fruf-
trated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at;

Gapt. Gore left Pulo Cundore on the 28th, and
ftecred for Pulo Timoun, which he paffed on the 3ift#
and the (traits of Sunda on the 8th of February. They
afterwards touched for water at the ifland of Cracatoa,
and on the 13th of April canneto anchor at the Cape of
Good Hope,

They rcmatned at the Cape till the 9th of May, and
on the 1 :5th of June paffed the equator for the fourth
time during this voyage;. On the 1 2th of Augult we
made the Weftern coaft of Ireland, and after a fruit-
lefs attempt to get into Port Oalway^ were obliged, by
ilroog foutherly winds, to ftgsr to the Northwards
'ilie next db)e£t was to put into Lough S|2/(riliy, but the
wind continuing in the £imc quartei:, we itood on to,
the Northward of Lewes iihiiid; and ov^ the zzi o£
Augufl, both (hips came to an anchor a( Strontnefs.^
From heiice Capt. King was difjpatcfaed^ ^: apqusunt the.
Admt^flilty with their arrival -y (ind on the 4th of O^*

wrm

• J , ^.'^ TgT^jr

Round tHB Wor.|.d«

the (hips arrived fafe at the Nore, after an abfence of
four years, two months, and twenty* two days.

Capt. King concludes his narration with the following
interefting refle&ions : On quitting the Pifcovery at
Stromnef^i I had the fatisfadlion of leaving the whole
crew in perfedl health : and at the fame time, the num-
ber uf convalefcents on board the Refolution, did not
exceed two or three, of whom only one was incapable
of {iervice* In the courfe of our voyage, the Refolu-
tion loft but five men by hcknefs, three of whom were
in a precarious ftate of health at our departure from
England ; the Difcovery did not (ofe a man. An un-
remitting attention to the regulations eftabliflied by
Capt. Cook, with which the world is already ac-
quainted, may be juftly confidered as the principal
caufe, under the blefling of divine providence, of this
fiogular fuccefs. But the baneful efieds of fait provi-
fions might perhaps, in the end, have been felt, not-
withftanding thefe falutary precautions, -^ we had not
aflifted them, by availing ourfelves of every fubftitute
our fituation at various times afforded. Thefe frequent-
ly corvfifling of articles, which our people had not been
ufed to confider as food forinen, and being fonietiines
exceedingly naufeous, it required the joint aid of per-
fuafion, authority, and example, to conquer their pre-
judices and difgufts.

The preventives we principally relied on, were four
krout and portable foup. As to the antifcorbutici'eroe'-
dies, with which we were amply fupplied, we had no
opportunity of tiyirxg their eife^^ as'theirdid not ap-
pear theilighteft lympD msqf thpfowrvy, in cither (hip,
during ibe whole voyage. Our malt and hops had aUb
been kept as a refource, in cafe of adluat ficknef^*, and
on examination at the Cape of Good Hope, were I'ound
intirely fpoiled. About the fame time were opened,

' forac

^11

S'J •

6ao Captain Cook's third Voyagb

fomecsiiks of bifguit, flour, malt, peafe, oatmeal, and
grciits, which, by way of experiment, had been put up
in fmall calks, lined with tin-fr-ail, and. found all, ex-
cept the peafe, in a much better ftate, than could have
been expe^ed in the ui'ual manner of package.

I cannot negleft this opportunity of recommending to
the conlideration of government, the neccflity of al-
lowing a fufiicicnt quantity of Peruvian bark, to fuch
' of his Majcfly's Ihips as may be expofcd to the influ-
ence of unwholefome climates. It happened very for-
tunate in the Difcovery, that only one of the men that
had fevers in the ftraics of Sunda, flood in need of
this medicine, as he alonp confumed the whole quan-
tity ufually carried out by furgeons in fuch vcflfels as
ours. Had more been alFcfted in the fame manner,
they would probably all have pcrifhed, from the want
of the only remedy capable of allbrding them tffcftual
»cUcf.

Another circumftance attending this voyage, which
if we confidcr its duration, and the nature of the fer-
vice in" which we were engaged, will appear fcarcely
left lingular than the extraordinary heulthinefs of the
crews, Avas, that the tWo fliips never loft fight of each
other for a day together, except twice ; which was
owing, the firlt tiitie, to an accident that happened to
the Difcovery off the coafl: of Owhyhee ; and the fe-
cond, to the f oga we met with at the entrance of Awat-
ika Bay.

A ftrongcr proof cannot be given pf the Ikill and
vigilance of our fubaltern officers, to^whonii this Ihare
of merit almoft intirely belongs.

FIN I S.

al, flnd
put up
all, ex-
Id have

iding to
of al-
to fucli
■c influ •
:ry for-
en that
need of
2 quail -
elTcls as
nanncr,
le want
:ffc;aual

, which
the fer-
fcarcely

of the
of each
ch was
cned to

the fe-
f Awat-

kill and
is Ihare

I *