IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^/ ^ z. 1.0 I.I 140 ^^ ■■■ ^ liiii |22 lio 12.0 lU u IL25 WU m 1.6 ^ V5 ^1l^ y "^ ^ ^ y Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREiT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 ( 7 1«) •72-4503 'A^ V iV :\ \ ^^ ^ c> ^1^- ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / i;iistitut Canadian de microreproductions historiquas Technical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notaa tachnlquaa at bibliographiquaa Tht Snotituta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat ori£iinal copy availabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba bibllographically uniqua. which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction, or which may algnificantly changa tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. 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K I li v\ r M I . ! I I M II .V Cm., I.dMhin. AUSTRALIAN LYRICS. Is. A POETRY OF EXILES. />. A SUMMER CHRISTMAS. lU. IN CORNWALL AND ACROSS THE SEA. Oh. EDWARD THE BLACK PRINCE. /.«, THE SPANISH ARMADA. i;,l. LESTER THE LOYALIST. :.'.». ii,t. To 111. iillIMM II KIMM WAIUi. l."fK .V UiiWDi'.V. Mmitm.. /-/. I ■ I r. y. o X 'j. \ ' )\ I ) **il 'JUS/I- . v\ TUP ( \K> AM) (Mr. iU:iN(i THE JOrRNAL C)l< /\ PIL- (iRIMAGK ALONC; TIIi: orill^N'S IlKillWAV TO Tin: I:AST, 1-R()M HALIFAX IN NOVA SCOTIA TO VICTORIA IN VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. •'• + + 1 • + + •!• + + + + «Y IHJI (tLAS SLA[>I..\, AUTHOR OF "THE jAPS AT HOME/' ETC. TEUttb flinctcen Collot)(>pe p'ntea, and £i0bts«6cvcn 5lludtrationd in tbc ZTcit. LONDON : ■■'. \i< h, I.rx K A r.OWht' N. r. IMi 1 i D, WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.G. NEW YORK ANU MELBOURNE. 1895. [A I rights reserved.] p r, c J 6 > OQ S)cMcatcC> to tbc f-<» i; 1) nil' FK i; i \, WIKISK NAMK IS A rhirsKHMI.n.uoi;!) ix r.\\\|i.\. xoTi:, ^[^ILK icttcr ill wliich Lord Uull'ci'in did me tho honour ol" acccptiiii;' tlie dedication will be of sucli interest to all who lov(« Canada, that, witli liis jiermission, I jiulilish it. — U. S. *'Ci,AM)i:i!()Yi;, "Co. I)(»\v\. ••Srjtf. 27, isui. " My dear ]Mk. Sladkx, — " I i'ladly acquiesce in your proposal to dedicate to me your I'ortlicoiniiii^' hook, ' On the Cars and Oil',' not only on account of the honour thus eonferred upon uie, hut uiore esj)ecially as addiiii^ another link, liowever slii^ht, to the ties hy which my ailections are indissolulily hound up with Canada and its people. Th()Ui,^h many years have passed since I (piitted Quebec, I have never ceased to take the dce]iest interest in those who accepted in so iiiduli'-ent a sjiirit luy poor attempts to do tlieni loyal service. Since then the Dominion has withered I'resh streui^'th and majesty. Her --reat Xorth-AVest has • •• Vlll NOTE. l)ecn traversed by mihvays, and its i)rairies decorated l)y prosperous settlements, Avhich ere loni^ will have fi^rown into populous cities. The voyai^e hetwecn Liverj)ool and ^Montreal has been reduced to half the number of davs it required in mv time, and Toronto has b ini'( b ful 'Come, 1 am mlormed, one of the most cities on the Continent, whilst Quebec still sits upon her rock in all her pristine loveliness. In endeavour- ini»' to make our coiuitrymen better acquainted Avith the glories aiul beauties of ' this Canada of ours,' you are rendering' an equal service to the two kindred communities that are joined in hand and heart across the Atlantic, aiul in united lovaltv to a common throne. " Believe me, yours sincerely, "DUFFERIX AND AVA. ■I s d(;coratc(l i; will have hot ween to half the id Toronto it l)eaiitiful 1 sits upon Mideavour- iiited Avith ours,' vou v'o kindred oart across lX common AAA." TO THE READKK. ^I'^IIIS (Io('> nut piTtciul to be !i liistoriciil, or s1;iri>ti('iil, -'- 01', ill tiny wjiy, an autlioritjitivc l)oolv. It is siiu|ily I'lcsiirned to show the liritisli and American rcaiU'i" what a licantil'nl, romantic, easy and intercstiiiir coniitry ("aiiuiia is to visit, and how I'lill ot'jiromisc is licr i'litiirc. 01' all the lands beyond the seas whicli I have visitctl. tlicn; is none which appealed to nie as Canada appcaliMl. Pnttinu; aside the Kast Indies, with their glorious wcultli ol' tropica,! Vf'icration, and their udorious wealth of iniarri(r, uiiy veiKnnous ivptili' ; it ]iiis !i history with ii(»l>h' liistoriciil iiioiimucnts ; iiiic) ulnio.st any ])art of it is within a few chiys', if not one day's, post ol' Xcw^ York, oni' of the world's threat literary centres. CiMnuhi is ]»roud of its anthoi-s; news[)ai)ers do their best t(i foster native literatnre : and the frc'iuency with which conti'ihntions hy Canadians ajipcjir in the best American jieriodicals proves that they can liold their own in the oi>en niiirket. Canachi is Iiistorically the most interestinn" country in the New W(irhl, l)oth fur its ancient buildinr. Brett: in Donald, Mr. GrilHths; at the Glacier, TO Till: lillADEIL XI lous ivptilc ; it :s ; jiiid almost one (lay's, post cc'iitrc's. s do their best [;y with wliich jest American vn ill the o[)eii conntry in the %t (jaebec iind liyhtly French- iight with the e ; 1 conkl not ice to the rest, ids who helj)ed •e in i\IontreaI, Mr. anil Mrs. Liglithall, tSir nthor (tf those hn Keade, the Gazftfc, iSfar, , the brilliant rticniarly kind erts and Bliss Mr. 1. Allan uf Acailia ; in tings of] Mr. Agnes Maule mith, Colonel )!' the Wori^/ hur Eden ; in it the (ilacier, ]\Ii'. Marpolc : nt Vanconver, 'Mv. Harry Abbott. Mayor ()|)peidieimer, Dr. Lofevre, Mr. !>. A. I'rown, Mr, and Mrs. ]\Iajor, and Mr. O'Brien ; :ind in London, ]\Ir. Archer leaker, who lius Ix'cii oi'the utmost tissistance to me. I liav<' also t(t thaidc Mr. Win. Xotimni lA' Montreal, the finest landscajie photugrajiher in the world, for j)ermission to rejiroilnce the many photographs of his, which illnstrjite this b(K,\. I asked his son for details of the famous tri|i he made through tlic inountaiiis, with a jirivatc car fitted U]) as a pliotograj)her"s studio, when he was taking these niMgnificeiit vi('W^ : l)Ut it has lutt reiiched me in time to be iiududcd in the book. And abo\(' all 1 li;ive to tliank my iVieiids, Mr, Horace Cox, of th(> U/'cni (in wlutsc pjigcs so many of these clia])ters ajijieared), and his son, IMr, Percy Cox. for iheir symjiathy and helj) at cveiy turn. 1 fear that, writing to entertain tlu' oft-bored English reader, I ma\' not alwavs have maile it clear liow thoronudilv I love both Cjiiiada and the Canadians. Jt' 1 have huit any one's feelings, they will know that I have done it, not in malice, but to amnse. Jf you wish to interest ]teople, yon must only be serious incidentally. Douglas Sladen. ACTIIOIIS' Cl.Uli, London. ■^ • iOI' s.\\|.; CANAPA. hxl'i rii' Hi ill t'"l*f'l'lli, '111 I 111' Air of " (ii 1,1 Nui' tho I, 'ill I'M " licriciili our Niiiilicrii >kii-i I'll liuld :i nmidii list' r.iil 'I 111' I u .1 t'dcs ; I'l "ililii'd, ;i^ \\;u\\\ i:i,,\v> 111. I, (ilurV ••lllll JlnWlT to ll.llil. A> ilii I liiisr I iv.'ils Imlil. I-ii.v ami llosi;. (iiitl ii'aii'd ilu' Imii'Iv cliilil, I'licil in ilii" I'lnsl ami wilil, [•'(ir -unif L;i<'al cnil ; l-'dicst and wasti- iinlrackrd, Mlii\v-dfc|i and < alaiai 1. ra»i's wilh ylacirrs |iai'ivi'd, Made luT tlirii- li iond. Mxil.'s I'm- Kn-land's -akc i.i'M'd .-lie, ;iiid bade 1 hem lake Hall' .-.lie possosi'd ; And. when tlic fucnian ranu' l'iran.li>hino; >\vurd and llanii', llui'li'd him with wunnds and ^lianic I'ack I'lMni her lirca^l. < iiid sa\ f onr ( aiiada. I.nnu li\i' nur ( anada, l.i'val, thiiii.!4-h free ! >'ii'i'rin_>:: lur own >ioiii hrlni. No >tiirin .-hall ii\cr\vhclni " A h'l'.AI.M \VI 1 llIN A KKAl.M " That iiri.i:s thi: si:a. l'(H(;|.A,-< Si,A1)|;n. "A CONTEXTS. LADDN. 1 MM'. I. Nov \ Sc.rn\: tiii: I.wn ni' l-lv \ni;i:i,ink, . II. Ni;\\ r>i;i NswK K : iiii; \.\s\> or •nil, l,ov \i,isrs III. I''i.(i\\ i;i;v l''i;i:in:i!n Ki'i>N I\'. (.^)i i;i!i;i : ■III!. ('ai'ITvi, oi Ni;\\ i'"i;\N(|.; \. Tin; r> \i-ii,i'. (IK <,|i i;i!i;r \'l. lil'.l.oU (^»l IliKl \'ll. MoNll.T.AI,: I'lli; I'lMMII'M. CriV ok ('\N\|)\ AMI. WiNIKi; SlNiJMs IN .MoNIIMvM I.\. A .MoMUKAi. ('\i;mvai X. Nklson in Canada: and \ ('hi.onim. .M\i!ATih>N Xl. St. Annks |'.<^). : tih; Canadian IIhmk ok Thomas MoolJK XII. A KlsHINi; I'.OX IN TIIK CaN\D1AN l;\(K\\doDs XIII. Tin: Tiioi SAND Islands ok tisk St. La\vi:|':n iiii: Dkxknt OK Tin: .MolNIAlNs XXllf. Tin; (.'oi.i.kn City ok tiik Hoi kv .Mointains; and Ii'ai Ks rillM.KVAl XX I \'. Imsii Stoimks ok tiik Ki.'Anki: XXV. N'am.oi VKi! : Tin: (Ji.ascow ok tiik \oi;tii-\\'k-t XX\'T. N'ktoima: Tin; City ok IIo.mks XX\'[T. At Tin: Sicn ok tiikSiiii': ('\nai»a to Kxdr.AND : C'a.nada To Ai>ii;ai,ia : Canada to tiik Fa k East Pm,i: 2fM :m Ft Pa 4n(; I'M.t E\sY •2<;2 uM r. \NKK TO . •211 . 201 Tin: ])i>( r.NT . ;iifi NTAINs; AM) . :W4 • :5in {TH-\Vl>T :',(;(! :{s7 111 Knci.aM): riiK Fak East 4"i(; LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— FULL PAGE. J 4 fVontUjjieot!. The Gate of thk Rocky Mountain : thk Thkkk Sisters AT CanmoUE ' 'lie p. 277). Pnffp 18. Forest and Fell: the Head op The Emeuald Lake, nkak Field, I5.C. {vide- p. 281). 27. In the Mountains (_vule p. 2h.-,). 32. A Shack. 38. The Hampauts of Quebec: looking Ea.st. 40. Quebec: Dukkerin Teuuace, The Citadel, and the H6tel Frontenac. 91. The Lair of a Glacieu (ridr p. 284); Mt. Hermit, taken WITH A Telescopic Cameua. 102. The Pyramids op the North-West : the Chancellor Leanchoil (ride p. 282). 112. Lake Louise : a little beyond Banff {vide p. 270). 186. Lordly Fish. 208. The Nepigon River ; and its Hudson's Bay Post. 212. The Lock op Lake Superior : a Canadian Pacific Railway Lake Steamer in the Sault St. Marie Lock. 2,38. Fort William: a Grain Elevator. 248. A Sulky Plough. 256. Banff : the Valley of the Bow, and the Canadian Pacific Railway Hotel (vide p. 2(;(')). 276. Mount Stephen : the Town of Field, and the Valley of the Kickinghorse. 309. A Snow Shed and a Summer Track at the Glacier House. 384. The Ii£A VER : the Pioneer Steamer of the Pacific. 400. Sealing Schooners at Vi. .obia. ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. I-AIIK Phables Robkbts, the Canadian I'okt 6 Oi-D Fbknch Maoazink, Pout Uoyal (Annapolis) .... 12 OLD AncHWAY, Pout Hoyal (Annapolis) 15 ciTADKL at Quebec 36 liitEAKNECK Steps, Quebec i*' QUEBEC Kito.M Point Levis 52 (lENEKAL Wolfe's Monument, Quebec fir) St. Louis Gate, Quebec 58 Montmorency Falls 60 A Lobette Squaw 'il Dr. Geokoe Stewabt tJS \icToitiA Square, Montreal 72 \iLLA Maria, Montreal 77 Windsor Hotel, Montreal 8"> The Man at the Wheel— Sir William Van Uobnb . . . 8s Children playing in the Snow 92 (HILDEEN tobogganing 107 lluiNS OF AN Old French Fort in Sir John Abbotts Garden AT St. Anne's 12H Tom Moor's House 12") The Lachine Hapids . .131 The Canadian Pacific Railway liRiuuK at Lachine . . . 132 The Tin-rooped Church op French Canada 135 Lake and Island at Lac Eau Clair 13S shooting a Loon 140 Interior of a Settler's House 143 CEXT. rr I QARD£N TAllK 12 15 36 411 62 5.') 58 60 I'll tiS 72 77 8r> 8S 92 107 12:^ 125 131 132 135 138 140 143 H.LfSTltWr/nXS IX Till: TEXT. xvii At Ai.kxandkia Hay ; riii: Tmoikani) Islan'ds i.r tiik St. l,Awm;N AM A " SANrtCI'LnTTKS " Co.MI'KTITIOX SW ltA(;KH I'RIM.'RVAI WW KL.OOTOI5IAN (t'K.MAI.i: Co AST InKIAX), WITH I'AI'OHHi; IN A .M:\ XV) xw :i:i'.t :mi :s :;r,i m:\ •M',7 UtiH ;»7(i 37-i :<8tt 3!ll 4(t'.t J I •-' 41'.' I ox THE CAES AND OFF. CllAl'TER I. A'olM SCOTIA: THE LAND OF KiAXUKUXE. . TTTJIAT u cliaiii^'c From tho floatini; liotcl on tlic ' ' Fall Jtivcr to tlic taut sea bull -dou; //>i/lf :ford encLonia, suite of sjowns. ovc of spruce ! such as that ir pool fringed (leur-de-lvs or golden water-lily, according to tlie season. In front. se])aratod only l)y a line of (piaint colonial elms, with their trunks feathered with leaves like the legs of Cochin China fowls, are deep aromatic meadows. AVliat meadows Windsor has ! Not Grand Pro itself only, but Grand Pre, AVindsor, and all tlie phices round are one vast dyked meadoAV. The meadow- vestured limestone . ^- . hills above the dvkes .f '■ ■' I'ROFESSOU C. G. D. KOIJKUTS are qiiaintiiess itself — for they are full of deep " pot-," as they are called in Yorkshire, doAvn one of which a stream disai)i)ears like the famous ^Mallam River. These meadows, hill and dvk(^ alike, are ij^lowing with ox-eves, self-heal, and St. John's Avort, \\\\\\ here and there an orchid, or an archipelago of reed-fringed pools full of the purple ITeur-de-lys Iris — the Purple Plag. And Avhat berries ! — Avood and meadoAV alike carpeted Avith Avild straAvbcrries, and (nery little thicketed liolloAv a tangle of Avild raspl)erries, blue- ox Tin: CARS AXD OFF. berries, pii^conherries, and iiiitcholla. Over tin's eartlily Paradise Ave wandered Avitli the ixx'ts, Bliss Carman and Clia)d(?s Roberts, the University rrol'essor of Literature, bathed in sunshine all day and sleepiiii;' at nii;ht in the quaint old collei^e, wlun-e av(^ had lari^e, airy rooms, and lived on the fat of the hind For a sovereiijjn a Avecdv. (>! Fortmidti n'nniinn sua si bona vi^^ny/^, tlie peo])l(' who live in this (hdicious countrv. No Avonder that !ioberts's nature-jjoems are so lovely. Charles Roberts, " the Canadian Laur(nit(5 " — NoA-a Scotia's link Avitli the i^'r(»at Avorld — lives in a ])retty house in tlu; crol't behind the collei^'e. His muscular exploits have instilled in the under^-raduates a ii-enuine re^'ard Tor i)oetry, Avliich has resulted in a more literary atm()sj)here than I ever remendxM' tindinii; in an university, lloberts is a Avell-kiiit man, a litth^ below middle heii;-ht, with larg-e broAvii eyes, si)ectacled from overwork, in i>'eneral appear- ance reminding' one stroiii^dy of lludyard Kipling'. I[e is devoted to literature, hosi)itality, and sport. lie feels his seclusion from the i^reat Avorld, but living' in the .Vrcadia of North .Vmcrica has given his i)0(^try a ceviain aroma that on(5 gets noAvhero (dse in ]']nglisli verse. Professor lloberts, avIiosc work has a great voi>'uo in the American magazines, spreads Nature in her romantic Nova Scotian garli before us like an ()])en book. He is not mystical like .\[r. Carman, the other nature-poet of the ^laritime Provinces. !i' NOVA SCOTIA: THE LAXD <)F FAWNGKLISi:. \. Ovor this lie poets, Bliss n'sity ri'ol'ossoi' ly and skM^pini;' wluu't3 Ave had at of the hiiid rhit, tlie peo])l(' [o Avondcr that civ. Charh>s -jS'ova Scotia's a pretty house His muscuhir lei'ijjvadiiates a las resulted in »ver reinemhev is a Avell-kiiit til larii;e hrowii ieneral appear- lyard Kipliuii;. ity, and si)oi't, eat world, hut rica has i;'iv(Mi jjets noAvheiv loherts, whose can magazines, a Scotian g-arli s not mystical ;e-poct of the I had almost forj^^otten the Avon, that red daughter of Fundy, hy whose hroad hosom llolxM'ts and 1 watched the ])uildin«,' of a ship— a spruce schooner of seven hundred tons— that was heini? i)ut tojj^ether hy the hand lahour of a handful of men. The Avon at low tide is a valley of red sand and mud; hut at the turn the mii^hty tides of Eundy roll \\\) like a bush lire, and make a river as i-reat as the Thames at London Bridi^e. As we sailed down it to the hasin of ^Minas to pay our respects to miu,'hty Bio- Ion, we found a ship huildini,^ at every little town, some as larije as two thousand tons. Nor must I leave Windsor without mentionini>' the dear old country house, (nnhowcred in trees, where Judi?e llalihurton, himself a Kins^'s College i»-raduate, and the only Canadian nov(dist who has a world-wide reputation, Avrotc *' Sam Slick," and the (puM»r old beetlini^' block-house fort, that was standi uij^ Avlien the .Vcadians sailed awav to their southern exile. From Windsor Ave did not fail to s;o once, twice, thrice, to Grand Pre — the inconspicuous .Vcadian villas^e, made halloAved ground by the genius of LongfelloAV, though his felloAV Bostonian, Parkman, has shoAvn that he Avas rather ignorant and ex- aggerated in his sympathies. Parkman has proved that the British Government had been most long- suffering Avitli the Acadians. King George might well have said : " Forty years long have I been grieved of this generation; for they have erred in their hearts and have not knoAvn my Avays." . The ON THE CARS AND OFF. Kiii^lisli Government liad done its best to muko tlicii] contonted. Tlioui^li a conquered ])eople, their rc- liij^ion, their jn'operty, and much freedom had l)eeii s(,'cured to them ; and no douht this simple, kindly, industrious peoples would have l)een delii^htcd to live placidly under the, for once, jiaternal sway of tlic (ieorges. But the arch-schemer, La Loutre, vrho was the secret agent of France, corresponding* to the Russian agents in the Balkan peninsula, did not intend them to become ^^lacid subjects of Kinii George. He meant them always to be ready to rise in revolt when anv invading force from France appeared in Xova Scotia ; and to do this h(^ had to keep the international sore oj)cn — an end for whicli he was ready to use the most approved Land-League methods. The Indians, and Acadians disguised as Indians, cut olf lonely English settlers ; well-disposed Acadians were 1)oycotted ; supplies were either denied to their English masters, or sold at fabulous prices, and furnished, if need were, for nothing to the enemies of the English ; and New England Avas kejit in constant dread of the French making Xova Scotia a basis for a descent upon their shores. Neu England was even more anxious than Old England that these treasonable practices should be put an end to, and accordingly the Acadians were told tliev would absolutely have to take the oath to behave themselves loyally and sincerely to England, which they had been evading through forty years of the greatest kindness ever shown to a conquered people. XOVA SCOTIA: THE LAXD OF EVASaEUNi:. '.> ; to make thciii [)ple, their w- 'dom had l)eeii shnple, kindly. idij^htod to live il sway of the 1 Loutrc, vrho rresponding' to pcninsuhi, did hjccts of Kiiiii )e ready to rise ) from Trance this he had to end for Avhicli d Land-Leagiic IS disguised as ; well-disposed I were either Id at fabulous for nothing to X England m as making Xova shores. Neu Old England , he put an end ere told they )ath to behave ]ngland, which V years of the quered people. Unwilling, or unable, to l>elieve that the Government was actually in eariu'st this time, they were at lenu'th removed, Avith all the humanity possible (families being taken to the same places, and where feasible in the same ships), by a body of troops, with few excei)tions, from New England. That there was much real suffering is Avithout doubt. These good souls were as fond of their holdings as an Irish peasant, and had been rebellious, not from inclination, but because they were 1)ody and soul in the control of the Church, Avhich was a mere machine in the hands of the Abbe La Loutre. Their sacrifices and sull'erings gave Longfellow genuine material, which he Avorked up Avith the art of an advocate, Avho picks out every ]ioint for his client and against his ad- versary, and Avould be embarrassed by extenuating ch'cumstances. Nathless, Evangeline is a lovely poem, and Avill hold men's hearts and illuminate Grand Pre as long as English is the language of this continent. Dear old LongfclloAV ! And noAv for Grand Pro. What is Grand Pre ? A deep aromatic meadoAV dyked in from the basin of Minas and its tributary rivers, and rising on the land side to a ""enth^ SAvellinu; horseshoe hill, on the declivities of Avhich stand Avliat remains of a village. One can still trace not a fcAv cellars, more or less filled in Avitli loose stones by the present OAvners, in the hopes of Avinning a yard and a half more for cultivation. These sites are generally marked by thickets of glorious Avild raspberries, and arc found, 10 ON THE CARS ASD OFF. as a rule, near the lines of stunted willoAvs planted by the Acadians, and cut down in vain by their conquerors. The vitality of willow} is astonishini^; the closer they are polled the thicker they grow, Here and there arc pathetic little touches. By one cellar or foundation a footworn threshold-stone is still In situ, and round it cinnamon roses, once in its ij;'arden, run wild. Down in the river meadow is a well, and at the hill-foot the debris of a forgo. From the bottom of this well the other day were dredt^ed a number of articles, some of which in all probability were flung into it by Colonel WinsloAv's NeAV Englanders Avlien they Avcre rendering the village uninhabitable for stragglers, Avho had disobeyed the summons to come in. Tavo Avell-bucket chains, three or four hatchet heads of an old-fashioned pattern, a queer clasj^ knife, a knife and fork, undoubtedly old Erencli, a bucket handle or tAvo, and the like, are the principal relics ; and they are preserved, as they should be, at the hoi se of the o-entleman aaIio is noAV " The Avealthiest farmer in Grand Pre . ' ' The Avell is fondly called ' ' Evangeline's Well." Grand Pre is delightfully pretty. The meadou itself, like all Acadian meadoAVs, is deep Avith hay grass, aromatic Avitli clover, and gloAving Avith Avild floAAcrs ; aliove all marguerites, evening primroses, and St. John's Avort as large as its garden cousin the rose of Sharon ; and there are not a f cav purpl(> Canterburv bells. Round the eds-es of the raihvav, XOl'A SCOTIA: THE LAXD OF EVANGELINE. n villoAVs planted vain by tli<'ii is astonishing': ker they grow. uchcs. Ey oiic eshold-stonc is roses, once in iver meadow is >ris of a fori^c, )thcr day Avere )f which in all onel Winslow's rendering the .0 had disobeyed -bucket chains, I okl-fashioned nife and fork, handle or two, ; and they are 3 hoi se of the liest farmer in ["Evangeline's The meadoAv deep with hay ring with wild ling primroses, garden cousin j a few purple of the railway. tlie roads, the cellars — round tin; rdges of cncry- tliing — are thickets of exquisite wild roses of an unusually deep crimson. I gathered a hatful, to press as relics of a i)lace Avhich Longfellow had made me yearn to visit. Dotted about the hills are i)icturesqiie farmsteads embowered in orchards; and when one climbs the hill the prosi)ect is magnificent. At one's feet, according to the; tide, is l)r()ad rinl sand or broad red sea — a veritable; lied Sea ; and across the basin on oi)posite sides are the stately promontories of Blomidon, looking like a couching lion, and Cheverie, standing out as bold and clear as the ramparts of Quebec. In the l)Iue haze of the distance are the Five Islands and the fine bluff of Partridge Island, Avith Parrsboro' on its elboAv, and nearer home the Avinding estuary of the far-famed Gaspereau, and that little bay Avliere rode the little fleet of King's ships Avliile "VYinsloAV and his Ncav Englanders Avent through the dis- agreeable task of carrying out a political necessity against sheep misled l)y their shepherd. When I Avas there, Nova Scotia rejoiced in the funniest of legal fictions — the Scott Act, prohibiting the sale of spirituous liquors. It was openly dis- regarded. In the larger toAAUs hotels sold liquor as if the Act did not exist, and in the smaller ones it AAas merely a case of finding out Avhether the milkman, or the milliner, or the fancy stationer, would oblige you. Nova Scotia differs to this extent from Vermont, Avliere in prohibitionist toAvns every 12 r>.v Tifi: r.ifi's Axn orr. shop is sjiid to s(«il spirituous licpiors. At Anna])()liv I (lid lmv(; to ])ay twcnty-livo cents for a l)iseuit. and i^ot a hottlc of Ikm«i' thrown in; l)ut it \\\\. (piito unusual to «j;o tlii'oui;'li tliis farce. I incpiircii of Professor lioberts iiow they manai^ed tliini^'s s, comfortably. " Oh, juries won't convict, so it's m, i^ood prosecutini"'." At AVindsor the I'arce was at its height. The Windsor and Annapolis Railway runs throiinli some of the most famous scenery in Canada, for after passing Halifax, with its citadel and its park effects. and "Windsor, Avith its meadowy hills, and Evange- line's Grand Pre, one comes to the valley of tin Gaspereau, the Annapolis Valley, and Annapolis itself, every one of them halting-places to the pilgrim in quest of the picturesque. The direction of the line is admirably chosen, folloAving the water Avherc tlic water sccnerv is best, then running right doAvn tin F. SOYA ,S(()TIA: I'lll'. LA.\l> "/•' lAASd ELISE. 13 . At Aiiiia])()lis ts tor a l)isciiit, in ; l)ut it \\\\^ •CO. I iiiqiiiicd lUi^'od thing's s, iivict, so it's IK, ic i'ai'co was at ly runs throunli ancada, for aft or its park offocts. s, and E\-ani;'o- 3 valley of the Vnnapolis itself, the iiilgrim in ion of the lim atcr wliere tlic ig'ht down the central ridn'e ol' the Annapolis Valley, and returning' to the water in the outskirts of Annai)olis. It makes a very pleasant feature in a day at Grand I're to skirt \\w cellar-strewn tields, wliicli were the site ol' the old French village, and make one's way to the very English-looking little town of Wolfville, with its important Baptist univei-sity — the Acadia College. Wolfville gardens ar(5 full of old English cottage flow(>rs — tall larkspurs, Canterhury hells, and liomcdy crce])inii' roses. Not far i'rom Wolfvilh^ is the famous valley of the Gaspereau, a\ ith its clear mountain stream threadin"^ it amid tangles of goose-grass, lady's sli[)iKM', golden- rod, crimson yarroAV, evening j^i'i^m'^ses, and glorious clusters of crimson and crimsoner Avild roses, Avliich, like the thickets of wild rasj)herrics, make all Acadia picturesque hy their hright patches of colour. The gently swelling sides of the valley are admir- ably a(la])ted for fond lovers to help fair ladies in a descent, Avhich does not absorb too much of their attention, as are the planks which span the tribu- taries (if th(^ river. Th(3 whole valley is ideal for picnics, and, to an -Vmerican, singularly beautiful, Avith its aging homesteads and its rich orchard-studded slopes. To an Englishman, excei)t in so far as it reminds him of what In; has left behind, it is less impressive ; Jor just such a valley he Avill often see in Kent or Sussex, and there the orchards are richer and 14 ox riir (Mi's AM) arr. (Hv<'r^i(i('(l Willi bop-n'Mnlciis, tlic IhhiicsIc.'kIs miv nuH't' Miicinil .ind much liiii'i', mikI ('\(|iiisi(t' cliiircli lowers, (I.'iliiiu' l);ick lo lnr hcvoiul the IJcroniiMlinn, u ill oM'i'li.iiii;' ;i i'i\ri';it intervals ol' ;i milcorlwo. And llie s;inie ;i|»|tlies to llie Ann.ipolis N'mMcn ; To llic .\ni(M'ii''in, cliMrnicd l»v m rii'lilv cuiliN.iinl l;mds(';i|)(', it is mImjosI llir nc.'U'cst m|)|M'o;i('Ii In si'ciMM'v sncli ;is lir rliMpsodiscs over IVoin llic window ol" the i';iilwM,\ c.n'riM^c ms lie Mies IVom Dover lo Lond(»n l)\ llic Conl incnlal l']\|)i'(vss. Tlic l']ni;lislini;in prefers I lie wild i^randenr ol' forest mikI water l)el ween ll;ilifax ;nid Mount TniMcUe. Ilowcvei', MS one approMelu's Annapolis, tli(> view is niJide more interest ini*' l)v some line «dd liovnlisi houses. Ann.'ipolis, or as it is called I»\ its inhahil- ants, Annapolis iJoyal, in proud rememhrance thai ii is the original I'orl Uoval of the ( )r(lre (h' lion Temps, Lescarhot, Charnisav, and olhei's, who have lillcil the poetry of Canad;' with an old-world romance, is the oldest town on till .ontinent north of hMorida a ([uainl old town, with dear old wooden colonial houses oviM'ii'rown with creepers. It amply makes nj) in i)ictures(pieness for the tamer scenei'y of I In rich valleys, which are its avenues from Halifax, with its ([ueer old wooden (|uays, such as one I'eaiN of in Dickens's liondon tiovels, lyini;' hetwcen a. lim ])oo[ al)ov(* and a lordly sea-hasin helovi, at the fool of forested hills which simhI down trihutarv riveis; and with its capelike point occui)ie(l hy the (juaiiii Tort, pictured over and ovcm- a^-ain for the anticpu lil Tl th im the of < din "B Act de stei woi ,\(>\.{ SCO/'/. I; rin: /..\\i> "/•' i:\.\\<;rij\i: \.> KHIICstr.'uls Mil ;(|iiisilr clnircli it> Ki'ToniiMtioii, iiiilr or 1 \V(». iM|)(»lis N'mIItn ; I'lilv cull i\ Mini I M])|)ri>;u'l) III )V(*r IVoni I lie lie Hi I ir iiiMCKr ipolis, llic view lie old liovalist I l>\ lis inliMltil- iiihrMiicc lliMl it ' do Hon 'romps. ho llMVO llllcil rid I'oinMiic'o, is I ol' I'Morid.M H)d(Mi colonial Minply makes sccncrv of tin IVom I la 11 lax, li as one reads hetweeii a liiii' io\i', at the tool ihutai'v rivei's; h\ the (luaiiit )r the anti(iiit block-jioiise and archwav, ahove whici) ll(»ate(l the lilies of l''iance u hen Lonis (,)iia1or/e was kiiin'. 'I'll.' oldest part ol" the city is across the river. Thr >r lour miles j'ronj the present (Iranville rijse the orii;inal Torts ol" \)c Monts and I'oiit rincoiirt . immortal lor the n'eniiis ol" Champlaiii and the wit ol A - .^; -r^l. vKaP.}.--': n. J '." ■; » '""Wi'* V '^ '^ W if riiiiliin:!''' m? iHi!!!!"''; '"''v,''<''''''!!'!'!'"^f '•! M'-^ ?5r^t: •«'»,'^ .''WIT, i^. !"( L' PorfM the merry Lescai'l)()t. From tlie lirteen L;(Mitlemen of the colony Cliam))lain ori^'anised the most fanions dinhii;' club that has ever l)een on New AN'orld soil. "He ori^anised tliein," says ihinnay, the liistoriaii ol" Acadia, " into a society wliicli he called the Ordre de Bon Tem])s. Each I'liest in liis turn hecame steward and caterer Tor the (hiv, durin*'' which he wore tlie coUar of the onhu- and a napkin, and 16 ON THE CARS AND OFF. carried a staff. ^Vt diniior lie marshalled the way to the table at the head of the procession of the guests. After supper he resigned the insignia of the office to his successor, with the ceremonv of drinkini? to him in a cup of Avine. It became the point of honoiu with each giu^st, as his day of service came, ta have the table well supplied with game, either by his own exertions or by purchase from the Indians ; and, in consequence, they fared sumptuously during tlic whole winter, so that Lcscarbot was enabled to reply with truth to some Parisian epicures, who made sport of their coarse fare, that they lived as luxuri- ously as they could have done in the street Aux Ours in Paris, and at much less cost. It is painful. however, to be o1)liged to record that, although ])roa(l and game were so abundant, the Avine of those festive Frenchmen fell short, so that before spring tlicr Avere reduced from three quarts a man daily to tlic inconsiderable alloAvance of a pint." A quaint old place is Granville, Avith its fast-decaying AA^oodoii AA'harves, once lined Avith shipping from the East and West Indies, in the good old days Avlicn Salem. Massachusetts, Avas a great seaport, and Nathanit! HaAvthorne its Collector. Annapolis then did a brisl trade in Avhat the Germans call " colonial Avares ''- sugar and spice, and all that's nice ; and even noii a considerable register of Avoodeii shipping hail* from this port, though for the most part employee on other routes. Granville is a happy hunting-ground of ]/ast' XOVA SCOTIA: THE LAND OF IIVANGELINE. 17 led the way to of the guests. )f the office t(i rinking to him Dint of honour came, to have her hv his own idians ; and, in ly during tlic nahled to reply res, Avho made Ived as luxuri- the street Aux It is painful, although hread of those festivi" re spring they an daily to the A quaint old jcayina; wooden from the l^last vs when Salem, and Nathaniel hen did a hrisl lonial wares '- and even iiov shipping hail< part employe; ^■roiind of j/ast' masters of mercliant vessels — bluff sea captains with blue eyes and purple faces, who have braved Atlantic hurricanes tlieir lialf-century apiece in stout barcjues built of spruce on the Bay of Fundy. They rather aifect mo(l(n'n brick villas, Avitli no trade-mark beyond hard oil-paintings or woolw(jrk portraits of the ships they liave commanded, and pcrliaps a top-heavy model of a schooner, put together by some sailor with a jack-knife to l)eguile a voyage round the Avorld. No wonder the Erench chose Granville for their abiding city in the New World — nestling b(>tween lofty hills and the beautiful Annapolis basin, a stretch of water nearly twenty miles long, land-locked from sea-storms. Of the original Port lloyal, founded in 160G, liardly a stone remains, tliough there is a fine old fort on the ^Vnnapolis side, with its turf ramparts abandoned to wild flowers, but its l)lock-house of massive masonry still intact. It was in this very block-house, with its steep-pitched roof, that the citizens of 1781 were locked up Avhile the town was being looted by two American war-ships, which had taken it by surprise. Old as it is, Annapolis lias unsubdued wilds witliin a drive of it, wliere the beaver still builds aiul tlie trout fishing is in virgin plenty. Th(n'e are a good many Indians in the vicinity— I forget whether Melicetes or Micmacs— clotlied and civi]is(>d as tlie lEurons round Quebec. Tliey are famous for tlie magnificent bireh-barks they manu- facture ; especially their sea-going canoes, stauncli 9 18 0\ THE CARS AXD OFF. onousfli to navii^atc the sfrcat basin and coast aloii^ the shores of Fundv. We passed a ii^ood many oi' them fishing as uo iournevcd across the bav, in the smart white steamer Cit)/ of Monticello, from the orii^inal French setthmioiu to that of the -cVmerican Loyalists, wlio left tlic United States in 1783, rather than live under an alien flag. I mean of course the stately rock- founded city of St. John. 11(1 coast alon'4 I lisliint^ as m^ t white steamer ench settlement , Avlio left the an live uiulei 10 stately roclv- ^ :§ ^ Hi Si -It u ;?; u .-I ■< U W o Q < fct. a: o ■iMM^MMMMiMMM 1 tU] a fas to in Mr wh his jus fro] a TV a g hur whi pou at c smo fact acre i(;i CHAPTER II. NEW imrNSWICK: THE LAND OF THE LOYALISTS. THE clay that we crossed the Bay of Fundy, two of our most rooted preconceptions were upset -^we were pursued by a wall, and saAV a waterfall turn round and run up. "VVe were on the sea Avlien a white wall, many feet in heii^ht, flew after us faster than our sAvift little steamer. It turned out to be one of the sudden fogs of Eundy, which I'oll up in this way. The other phenomenon we saw when Mr. Bliss Carman, the delightful Canadian poet who has just taken literary England by storm with his Shelley-like poeticality of vision, drove us out just before dinner to see the falls of the noble river from which St. John takes its name. These are, in a wav, the most remarkable in the world. Tlirou*?h a gorge with angry black clitt's the river at low tide huids itself in a mighty waterfall into the harbour, while the incoming tide Avhen it gets sufiicientlv high pours back over the wall of rock into the river ; and at certain states of the tide tlnere is no fall at all, but a smooth river safely navigal)le by boats and rafts, — the fact being tliat there is a mere wall of rock runnini? across the bed of the river in a closely shut-in gorge. •JO ON TITE CARS AND OFF. WhcMi th(! i)honomenon was oxplainccl to mo l)y Mr. Carman, and I saw the mad sAvivl as the hiii^c volume of Avater poured over the clitt' at the turn of the tide, I said I tliought it was very high-spirited of the citizens to preserve this wonder of the world when a dollar's worth of dynamite would hlow uj) the liarrier and make everything plain sailing. Then he expounded the origin and use of this lusus natanv, A volcanic upheaval elevated a strip of the Ncav 13runsAvick coast, leaving the fertile country l)eliind, lying round the stately river with its tributaries and lakes, about the best land in Canada, beloAv sea-level ; and if it wxre not for the double waterfall, the ravening tides of Eundy would turn the garden of New Erunswick into another Zuvder Zee. Eew things in Canada impressed me more tliaii St. John, a city of spires, built upon a lofty acropolis, dominating one of the world's great harbours. As we steamed up to the Market Slip belou King Street, Mr. Carman reminded me that it Avas at the head of this estuary that La Tour built tlie famous fort from which he defied the superior authority of Charnisay, the representative of the most Christian king in Acadia, who lorded it at Port Royal. In the slow days of the seventeentli- century sailing ships the authority of the King of France was more or less shadowy on the other side of the stormy Atlantic, and La Tour was so eager in his struggle for independence against Charnisay i I -» M Xi:\V BRUNSWICK: Till-: LAXD OF THE LOYALISTS. -n ed to mc l)y as the hiii;'(' it tlic turn of liigh-spirittMl of the Avorld 3ulcl l)low llj) ailing. TluMi 5 liisus natnnv. of the NcAv •imtry hehind, its trihutaries Canada, heloM Lihle waterfall, m the garden r Zee. lie more than upon a lofty world's great 3t Slip helow ae that it was Cour built the the superior itative of the lorded it at seventeenth- f the King of the other side • Avas so eagor inst Charnisay that lie did not hesitate to call in the aid of the English in Massachusetts. Tor a long time L'^ Tour maintained himself n^'ainst the superior authority and power of Charnisay, and one attack on th(5 fort at the mouth of tlie St. John, during his absence, was beaten oif by his l)eautiful and spirited Avife. But the second time he Avas aAA'ay the attack Avas more successful: iid jMadame La Tour surrendered, only to find the terms i of surrender scornfully I'epudiated Avhen the invaders I had taken possession. Charnisay hung every man lin the garrison, and only spared Madame La Tour lAvhen he had subjected her to the ignominy of iwitnessini? the executions Avith a halter round her f Incclv and wearing fetters. One at least of the fbest Canadian historical poems deals with this Isuhiect. I AFter this there were various small settlements Ion the St. John of the Eui^lish from the eastern jolonies. But they are lost sight of in the surpass- 12: interest of that q-rcA^ morninu: in the MaA^ of L783 Avhcn the five thousand Loyalists, men of the )est blood and brains in America — judges, laAvyers, ^^lergymen, doctors, and the principal merchants and JandoAvners — came to pioneer in the wilderness rather ihai) forsAvear their allegiance to Great Britain. In #ne day the city of five thousand people was founded End Avas christened ParrtoAvn, a name Avliich Avas Jlmost immediately changed to St. John ; and about le same time Avhat is uoav Ncav BrunsAvick, and had *i 1 :i >. ?■ 22 OX Tin: f.ins .wn off. piTviously l)con included in .Vciidia, was (u'cctod into a s(»pamtt' colony. The United Empire Loyalists, as thoy arc called, have thriven exceedini^lv, and to-dav St. .lohii is the fll'tli town in Canada for })opulation, and the first for the tonnaiije of its shippini^. For this latter it has the al advantaifc of 1 of the t^ las tnc special advantai^c or Demi,^ one or tiie two c^reat seaports in Eastern Canada open to navii^atioii all the year round. Truly impressive is it to land at St. John. It rises up so quickly from the water's edi^e; and no toAvn in Canada has statelier streets. These arc clue to a blessing in disguise, the great fire of June 1877, in Avliich nearly a couple of thousand huildings Aveic burnt ; and though the city felt the rebuildiiin severely from the financial point of view, there is no doubt that the streets gained immensely in regularity and magnificence. The city is piled up on the rocks very much after the manner of Torquay, and but for the prevalence of summer fogs it would be very hot in that season. Mr. Carman, who made himself our host while ^vc were in New Brunswick, onlv let us remain a fou daA^s in St. John : it was glorious summer weather, and he was so anxious for us to ])e ascending tlic St. John Eiver to Erederickton. " The St. John has been called the Rhine of America," he said lauajli- ingly, "but without any particular reason except that it is a fine river." T^ere were certainly magiiiti- cent stretches of water in it, like the Grand Bav, .\7;ir nnrxswicK.- thi: laxd of the loyalists. i^ orcctod into nine miles broad, and the Loni>' lleacb, tw(3nty inilos loiiii; and three to five miles bvoad, lyini^ betwt^en hin'h shores oi' softly rounded hills, some richly cultivated and some yet forest. Fiiffini^ up the eighty-four miles from Indiantowii, tlie suburb of St. John above the falls, to Erederiek- ton in the comfortable David Weston was our iirst experience of the delightful Canadian river trips Mr. Carman had told us about, where the traffic is not too ijfreat for the captain and passengers to form themselves into one large picnic party. " If you've iiol)ody else to talk to, or want any information or even a shot at a shell-duck, you will always be welcome in the wheel-hoT.se," he said. In the glorious Canadian summer without a cloud on the sky, with the weather just as Avarm as one can comfortably bear it, a river trip in a moderate-sized steamer is about as delightful a thing as one can imagine. There is plenty of incident in it. ^Ir. Carman had warned us that every now and then tlie river would be so choked with log-rafts that we might just as well be in the Polar Seas; or the steamer be stopped off a mud-bank to wait for a slow little scow containing an old woman, dressed in the fashion of a generation back and armed with some preposterous bundles, who would at once be recognised and treated as a personage by the captain. All along the course of the mighty river Mr. Carman pointed us out little places which have vy '2\ n\ Tin: c.ih's axd orr. recorded tlKMiisclvcs in tlic Proviii^^ial history. Maui^orville, he told lis, was the first Eni^lisli. spoakini^ settlomont in New liriinswick, colonised i'rom Andovcr in Massacluisetts as far l)ack as 1703, and the villaii^e of Man Iberville was almost the only ])art of what is noAv Canada that took tlic side of the rebels in the War of Independence. A-ul the old Fort of Oronocto had stood a notable siege from the Indians. But for the most part the riAer was like, cither a liroad Devonshire estuary with tiny hamlets and decaying piers dotting its banks at intervals, or like the long arm of Sydney Ilarboiu' known as the Paramatta River, with its broad stretches of shimmery Avater, its lush marshes, its trees, rising as it were right out of the water; though here they are silvery alders instead of shining mangxoves. Towards (he end of a long day we reached Frederickton, and stej^i^ed off the sunny ujiper deck where we had feasted all day on the Canadian kindness to strangers, Avliich we perhaps enjoyed to a special degree, as nearly every one on board had known Mr. Carman from his childhood. ..ii ;!! ial history. « L'st Eni^lisl). ik, colonised i'ar back as was almost lat took tlio (Icnco. A-ul lotablc sic^c trt the river istuary with ig its hanks ney Ilarhour li its broad marshes, its the water ; \d of shinini,^ we reached r upper deck he Canadian s enjoyed to »n board had ClLVrTER III. FL 1 1 'i:n y fr fdeiuckton. CLATTER, clatter ! a pair of Ijeautil'iil, turl)ulent youni^ chestnuts, the pride of the heart of miiu* jhost of the *' Queen," dash doAvn the slope to our ^door. We scramble on board, and whirl throui^h the dignifted streets of the century-old cathedral town Avhich is New Brunswick's capital, outward- hound for the Indian encampment, which occupies the site of the old French villaij^e. First we pass the I'andsome little Gothic cathedral, standini^ on fa mossy lawn, shrouded in stately elms, on the l)ank |of the i^reat St. John, looking for all the world like the Thames at Kew, with its broad sweej) of silver livater, and its environment of quaint old houses and jEng'lish-looking turf and trees. We speed by the iHouses of Parliament, the home not only of the {Upper and Lower Houses of the Province, but the |Bui)reme Court, Avhich, without its rather attenuated cupola, Nvould be a pleasing and imposing building, |iad soon are abreast of the fine old English mansion, |rhich is the seat of the Governors of the Province. iThen, at last, we are in the open country. It is |ip hill and doAvn dale, and our horses will brook 20 o.v Tin: LA US AM) uri\ IK) pulliiii;- up; l)iit lliis is exactly the; mood ol" llic editor of Prinjiu'sH, who liolds tlic rcMiis, and avc descend the liills, in the only eiiioval)h' wav in whicli hills can hv descended, at full steam, w ith snlllcicnt way on to take us half-way \\\) the o])posite hill. In Canada, tin; home of ])ospitality, editors expect them- seiv(;8 to "drive round" every interestini;- straunci '.vlio comes to the town. So they arc; apt to Ix; i^-ood whi])s. Our ])articular editor lias a deft turn ol' tin wrist, which whisks us safely round the corner and over the hridi?(? at a l)reakn(;ck pace, and the aii is the pure ozone which l)reathes after rain, and tin road runs throui^h a forest of flowers, till we fuel as if we had heen drinkini^ champai^nc. A forest of floAvers ! Such flowers ! Acres oi golden-rod, the lircAvork of the lields, lookint,^ like those rockets which turn into palm trees of golden tire. The golden-rod is rivalled hy the firc-wecd. of a colour that has no parallel, except in the inferior rasjiherry ice-cream, which jioisons children hy Sunday schools at a time. Marguerites, ot cours(», there are, known locally hy their less poetical natural history name of ox-eye, snowiiiir the meadows ; and a rich red clover, with an in- toxicating scent ; and glowing velvety-purple spikes, called here wild jiea ; and self-heal, and hutt(.'rcit])s, and the tall evening primroses, with their sentimental shade of yellow. The soil grows poorer, and the flowers thinner, l)iit there is one among them which gladdens our British ■t ' inood ot" the (Mils, and We wnv in wlucli witli suHiciciit Dsito hill. Ill s (^xpoct tluMii. stiiii;' straiiiid' »])t to 1)(! i^'ood cl't turn of tile lir corner mid 2, and the air ' rain, and tin s, till Avo Iccl nc. rs ! Acres of i, lookin£^ like rees ol' i^'oldcii the firc-Avc'od, except in tlic )isons cliildi'cii 'argueritcs, (il hy their less c-eye, snoAvinir 1% with an in- -purple spikes, nd l)uttercu])s, eir sentimental }rs thinner, l)iit ens our British Fr.on'ERY Fi!i:ni:ni( ktox. 27 'Wil-h-yM' ^•:^**:;'A,.;i ^m-^ " - ■*^nr :l hearts with a tlirill of liomo, th(» little lilac l)lu(0)(4I, known in Kni;'lan(l as tlio haivl)(41, and nonh of the Tweed as the Bluebell of Scotland. AVas the seed of it In'ouij^ht by the brave bonnetcnl boys of tli(> 12nd llig'hlanders, who had Gone to fij^lit tbe t'l-cnch For King George npon Jiis tlironc, and never cam(; back home ag:ain, but settled on the lianks of the Avindini^ Xashwaak ? Now that I have visitcnl tin? scenes in the Xcw World, Avherc the " Lions " and tin? " Lilies " fouij^ht out tlie old fend that the blood of Crecy and Toictiers and Aginconrt conld not ([uench, this ballad has mnv l)athos for me. But the soil is not too poor for the mullein to n;r()\v tall, Avitli iis stately yellow spike; and here and there* is tin? yellow^ Canadian mari^uerite, lookini*" something: like the old conntry's corn marii^old, with a u:r(nit soft brown eye set in it. 8oon Ave come to a little dell Avith a clear, gnrgliiii^ brooklet deep down nnder over-archini^ trees. ^Vs soon as this brook escapes the shade of the trees it is bordered bv Q'rand bnlrushes with unnsnallv heavy cat's-tails ; and here and there a late pnrple iris — the pinjile jhij/, or jleuV'de-hjs, which some of onr American consins are anxious to have adopted as tiie national lloAver, out of compliment to France, as they say ; forgettinj^ that the I'rance of the jleur- iJi'-hlH Avas that old fendal Trance, Avhose hano^htv Princes of the Lilies AA'onld have* rei^-arded th(> entire 28 OX THE CAUS^ AND OFF. Ainoricmi nation Avith tlie contemptuous pity tlicy I'clt for the Aveavors of Flanders, or for their own villains. Bv the hrook, too, ciroAvs the tall red Aaleriaii. r(\ OFF. and ii);i(l( t'> know tluir place. Dead ilics arc iln least object ionahle part of tliese hotels. Al'tei' this ]'iiiciieoii-lea-(liimei* we went out t<» sn the I'eally luaiijnificent l^'alls ol' lliviei'c d'\ Luii|i The rain came down in a, perlect, waterlall, and wi had to talv(» i-eliiij^e in a lai'i;'e shed which conuniuidcil a view of the cataract while it alVorded seclusinn (^^nite a roni.-mtic situation it we had not Itni married for ten years, A \u\l in the show<'r let ih re<;ahi the villai''e. In a street ever so ioni"", witlioir any Teatiires evcept tlie ))()or little rrench-Canadia! style of the Mouses, we took r(>rui''e in a cohhlci, sho]), where the shoes were clumsier Mian sahoh AMhmi Ave houi^'ht some brown laces as an excuse |i ta.kini»: rerui»'e, thc^ col)bler detected us, and coiil h.'irdly be ()ersuaded to s(>ll ihem, thoni^'h we i-cdh wanted them, lie considered it a rellection on lij. hospitality. His I'amilv Avas on the usual J^'reiul Iff Canadian scale, and .-isphyxiation ])ossesse(i i; terrors I'or him. So after a while we braved the (dements ayiiii, and climb(Ml tlu' brow of tlie hill to indulge m: enthusiasm at haviuijf spread out at our I'eet tl i;'lorions watcn'-way up Avhich Cartier and his liliii eved IJretons ijassed uiore than tlir(H' humlred vca: ai»'0, to winter below the Acro])()lis of QiicIh, and carrv the Cross and the Lilies to the sununit ]Mount Koval. {[ini cic Dai-' pvi gl(>; ifrow Bas an o A Qu( (rf ( em]) of N Oeo .4^a( n Hies Jirr tin 'ni out to sir (•re (I'l L()ii|i, rrr.'ill, and \vi •h commaiHlcil (led seclusion liad not ItiM'i! showor let ib f Ioul;', withniii (Micli-Caiiadia! in a C()1)1»1(M> I' Miau saboU an oxcusc In us, and I'oiil :)Ui;'li we I'call) licet ion on lih usual FrcMU'li ssessed i. »l(Mn(Mvts aii'aii to induli;'^ I'l t our re(>t tl jind Ins l)lii' lvun(li'(>(l ya lis ol" Qiii'liii the sunnuil .' I CIIAITKU IV. i.HEJU:C.- THE CAPITAL Ob' NIIW FUAXCi:. \'] must 1)(^ stran!4'ely constituted wliosc^ heart does not ])eat a trille (|uick(M* when, turning' f, sliarp eoi'iKM" on tln^ niii;ht,v St. liawrence. h(^ iuddenly heholds looming' up Ix^l'ore liini tiu^ Kock r (^)iiehec, with its fantastic |)il(^ of st(Mi)des and ,in))ai'ts hristlini*: wilh old-rashioned caution, which bcU'lied I'oi'th Tin; and d(Nith often (Mioi.i^li in the ii^iity controversy that precculed th(^ hirth of tiiis •eat niiu^t(MMith century; and towei'ini^- ahov(!, Jeaniini^' lik(^ a i,^reat diamoiul in the siui, tlu; frowuiiii^ Cap(^ Diamond, crowiu'd with the Kini^'s Bastion ; and, hii»h over all, th(! l)ann(n' of Eui^land — |ti old shot-r(Mit Union Jack. "J An iMii^lishman is apt to ]n) all'ected ; for to him (juehec brings hack so much— th(^ hrilliant con(|U(;st M Canada, tin; proud day avIkmi Eni^dand won an eoipire as hirj^e as tlic United States, and tin; hanmu' St. Geoi'' race C^uehec is the v\\\ f^^^'^^r^ . ?.:■.: ^>.- :.B^^ CrrADKL AT QUKIUX'. whore !Montcalm and ^Mont^'omorv were dei'eatcd wipini^ out the stii^nir with tlieir i^allant deatlh I never go to Qiiehec Avithout visiting the citadi and the llei^'hts of .Vhrahani. jMaitre .Vhrahani ua the king's pilot of the St. Lawrence. His full iiair. was Al)raham Martin, and it occurs as (arlv ii 1021 in the parish registers of Quehec, wlicii li son Eustache was christened hy Father Denis. Ibowi down bigiii who tie poem orerci entree exert i how whom ordhi; mare himse Wolfi 1,1 n:ni:c: riii: c.\rir.\r. or .\i:\v fhasck hones oiiiv I'niiicc. Till (MulxM', more- lai;' l)ut tin \v I'l'oiu Ciipi' cc is the L'ilv ^raiic Avero (U'lVatctl gallant deatlb ini; tlio citadi c Ahrahani \v;i His full nam irs as (-ai'ly n U'1)0C, Avh(M\ li •athei' D(MU>. iscan. Iff was tlie owiici* of nine children, and ol ihc wliol" plateau, I'roni tlie city walls to Sillei\v 'l|\'(M)(ls, and from the St. liawrence to the heii-'hts OveiliaMi;'int;' the St. Charles, called after him Cute d'Ahraliani. '^ Tiiinn's are much chani;'e(l sincc^ Maitrc^ Ahraham's lime, or, indeed, for tlu^ matter ol' that, since the l^tal Sei)temher day when Montcalm rochi hack ah)n^' tlieOrande AUee to die at the Ursulines' Convent. In tliose days then^ was no lol'ty granite citadel d'owuim;' Cai)e Diamond ; no ^[artcdlo tower on Hie (|i)te d'A1)raham ; no gentle (hiclivity leading up liroiii Wolfe's Cove, which had heights almost as Aaccessihh; as the citadel rock. Every schoolhoy iDiows the story of the l)attle, — how AVolfe, (lrop[)ing wii to the landing under cover of the darkiu'ss, guihul the tedium hy repeating to the midslii})man o was steering the man-of-war's hoat which horc hini tii(> whole of (h'ay's " Elegy," concluding with the remark, " 1 would rather have written that pOem than take Quehec " ; how a storming party overcame the sentries on the heights and made the entn'i' for the rest ; how the sailors, hy sup(>rliuman exertions, dragged a field-piec(; or two up the dill's ; how wlien day hrokc Montcalm saw Wolfe, a man whom he know to ho daring and skilful hevond the ordinary, in a position commanding the city, and UMlrched to dislodge him ere he could entrench hiinself too impregna1)ly ; how heforo the sunset lll^lfe, in the pride of his youth, but thirty-three 4 »« -Tl i HllUJTlii i - ■ Mi l — i^'i»>ii W1 ■:'l(l' 1, 38 ON THE CARS AND OFF. yoars old, was lyini^ (load in his glory, ]\[ontcai]ii, n / dyini^ man in the lEousc of the Good Sisters oi* St, Ursnla, and the Lilies of France prostrated, never to | rise again in the Xew "World ! Wolfe had l)oen wounded twice before lie had hocii ^ killed ; Montcalm was wounded tAvice hefore he lelt the field, and, just as he was entering the St. Louis gate, received his mortal wound through the groin, il He died in the Convent of the Ursulines, and in its chapel is his toml), ornamented, hy an English Governor-General, Avitli a white marble tablet. His skull has been exhuuKHl, and is, rather sacrilegiously in my opinion, exhibited by the good Sisters. Montcalm's chateau is still standing, though l)otli the Avings have been rebuilt. It noAV constitutes | three houses, and the centre is '^till the original 1| building. The onlv noticeable features, howcvei, are the queer old bi'ass door-knocker, a lion's head, some old French fireplaces, and the enormous c(?llars, " in which during Wolfe's terrible cannonading tli inhal)itants took refuge. Montgomery fell in a ravine close to the spot?! where tlie landslide took place last year, rdl h perhaps rather a misleading Avord to use, because In did not, as formerly supposed, miss his footing, l)iit| A\as shot doAA^n Avhile attempting to scale a barricadr across a sort of ravine, Avhicli Avas not so steep as tlif I face of the rock. To Americans Quebec is no longer AA'liat it Avas.| Half its picturesqueness vanished Avitli the destriic- h Montcalm, ;i, listers of St, tetl, ncYCv to lie had IxHMi leforc he left jlic St. Louis I ;h the groin, )s, and in its an English I tahlct. His ^acrilogioiislv i sters. , though hotli ^v constitutes ^ the original res, however, a lion's head, mious cellars, nonading tlv c to the spot y^ear. Tell ']< ^ se, because In s footing, Initi le a harricadi ^o steep as tin what it Avas .^^ 1 the destriic-^ "^^4:i o o u CQ u C b O H < < M E H ii > QUEBEC: THE CAPITAL OF NEW FRANCE. 39 tion of its gates, and the other half with the withdrawal of the kilts and redcoats, who so enlivened the grim old rock with their uniforms and their festivities. The destruction of the gates was an act of vandalism. America has lost her principal architectural curiosities, and the subsequent in- crease in the business of Quebec has not in any way warranted it. Quebec, however, presents naturally and artificially one of the world's most picturesque ctvips (Vceil. We went from the terrace to the post-office, which still bears the device of the Chien d'Or, with the defiant motto in old French, " I am the dog that o'naws the bone." A romantic bit of Quebec this. Here? stood the Chien d'Or — " that famous legendary haunted house," Le Moine, the historian of Quebec, calls it — the first ever built of stone in the city. This was the mansion, historic for the quarrel of the Intendant Bigot and the merchant Philibert, which inspired Kirby with his romance. In 1871, when it was destroyed to make room for tlie present post-office, its corner-stone was unearthed, adorned with a leaden plate bearing an inscription showinj? that it was erected in 1735. Over the front door Avas engraved a dog gnawing at a large fleshy hone, which he had got under and between his fore- feet, Avith an inscription in French, of which the folloAving is a translation : " I am the dog who gnaws the l)one Avithin, without losing a single morsel ; the time Avill come when I will bite him that has bitten 'W ; r' ii;'o f 1 '' >,'f*'| I iuJuMtoiiS J^mmmmtimM 40 ON THE CARS AND OFF. me." Marmettc, Soiilard, and others, besides Kirl)y, have founded romances on this weird old mansion 11' and its queer lintel ; and at the little Chien d'Or 1 Restaurant opposite, Captain Horatio Nelson, of J II. M.S. Alhemarle, attempted to elope with heautiful Mary Simpson, the barmaid — the landlord's niece. QUEBEC: THE CAPITAL OF NF.W FRANCE. 41 Ho fully meant to have married her and settled in Canada, if Davison had not prevented him, A\ith who shall say Avhat result upon the wars of 1770 or 1812 ? Just heloAV arc the famous " Breakneck " steps lead- iii<»' down to " Our Lady of Victories." We went down the zigzags of Mountain Hill Street, ahout the Alckedest hill up which a horse ever drew^ a load within the boundaries of a. city. Surely if any place ever richly deserved its ascenseur, as the French call it, it is Quebec, and its elevator shaft is almost as steep as if it were in a house. A little to the other side of the Cliien d'Or are the Place d 'Amies and the Duiferin Terrace. The feature of the Place d'Armcs now is tli(; noble Avhite Court-house, in the old French style of architecture ; but forincrlv it was dominated bv the statelv build- iugs of the llecollet friars on the land side, and the Chriteau of St. Louis, the residence of the Goveriu)rs of Que])ec, on the other. Both have perished by fire, and given way, one to the Anglican Cathedral and the other to Dufferin Terrace. At the end of Duiferin Terrace has just been erected the magnificent new Hotel Frontenac, Avhich I have not seen. Just below it, at one end, Champlain was buried, tli(, igh his grave is as secret as that of Moses. Under the crags of the mountain-side at the l)ack of the main street we passed along " Dog-lane," a narrow alley, quaint and dirty, and blocked up with overlianging houses and hanging-out clothes, Avhich 8 't. 'V ■It U'^ ii »_I H't i. I jJ I M pM 42 ON THE CARS AND OFF. I (■ I I \ ; |i might have beon a street in the Ghetto at Rome or a Chinese rookery in IIong-Kong. Then we climbed to t]ie Upper Town again, to rainl)le along the ram- part ; for Quebec has still its walls, bristling with 'long twonty-fours." It is here at the lower end of the rock that the great University of Laval, tlic; leading Catholic University of America, stands — the vast block of buildings whose little dome makes such a picturesque landmark as one comes u.j) the river. The cathedral and palace of the Cardinal- Archbishop adjoin it. The University was developed in 1852, out of the old seminary founded by tho famous Bishop Laval in 10G3. It is happily described thus bv Mr. Dawson : — " The Universitv buildin"; now stands out in the forefront of the Upper Town, conspicuous for magni- tude, solidity, and stiffness. "Within, it is furnished lavishly with all the appliances of modern teaching : a splendid library of 77,000 volumes and costly ajiparatus, convenient lecture-rooms, and spacious halls. The main building is 297 feet long, and five stories high. A wing 265 feet long was added in 1880. It is fire-proof, and it is surmounted by a dome, from which magnificent views may be had over the country in all directions. Without, it is utterly bare of ornament, and rigid as its founder. The hall of entrance is of noble proportions. On each flat a corriuor runs down the centre 8 feet wide and 265 feet long." Laval is a suj)erl) institution, and has a few valu- QUEBEC: THE CAPITAL OF NEW FRANCE. 4:5 al)lc pictures ; l)iit the hiiiklini^ is mcxhu'ii, and had not tlie same interest for me as the fine okl wooden mansion overlooking the ramparts in llampart Street, wliicli Avas the chateau of the great ]\[ontcalm. The; ramparts are delightful in many places. Here the okl cannon and the sweeping view of the river ar(; the attraction. Between the St. John Gate, with its interesting market, and the stately St. Louis Gate they are hroad enough for a grassy lover's walk sliaded with trees. There, under its shadow, is t\w smooth tarf of the lawn-tennis cluh, Avhere French ladies, exquisite women, are desperately English within a stone's throw of the Garrison Cluh — a cas(3 of Home capturing Greece twice over, to invert th(> Horatian saw of Griccia Caj^ta. The St. Louis Gat(5 — new, hut the most effective hit of Gothic in America — spans the Grande Allee, the historical road loAvn which Montcalm. rode from the Heights of Ahraham on that Septemher morning fatal to France. I shall never forget my first im2)ressions. "VYc had had our view of the famous falls at Riviere du Loup spoiled l)y the incessant downj)our, and under the same depressing circumstances had dragged in the slow " Intercolonial " train past St. Anne de la Pocatierc and St. lloch and St. Jean Port Joli and Tlu'ee Salmons and St. Peter and St. Thomas and St. Charles, and all the rest of the little towns which patronise little saints on the shores of the great riv(;r, wlien all of a sudden the evoninn; sun shone out ii; >«■■«■ 44 ON THE CAIiS AX') OFF. just as w(> wore oiit(>riiii:f Levis. Ovorliead the clouds were black and tliundorv, but the horizon was a radianc(5 of lurid I'rc. On the brow of the prc^cipicc; stood out in bold relief the outline of the discroAvned capital of the XcAV Work U] • .J A\aiTior lyini^ in state, with the black niii-ht .!!)!..■ he loftv cathedral above him, and the ij-low of t(; ;iies v und his bier. The citadel on the brow of the precipice sup^i^ested his head, and the rififid Laval Universitv on the toe of th(^ rock his upturned feet. I did not then r(^cognise \\o\y typical these two landmarks were of Eni^lish and Trench j)ower — the sword and the k(\vs. TIk; next dav was "doriouslv fine : and how ujloriously fme July days can l)c in Eastern Canada, \A'here one gets the dry, champai^ny .Vnstralian heat, and the dark blue Australian skies, and a breeze; from mountain or river ! AVe Avere stavini"' on the old Place d'Armes, which has glittered Avith the pomp of generations of knightly frenchmen. From my l)odroom AvindoA\ I could see the broad bav of th(; St. LaAvrencc, at the head of Avliich Quebec stands, with the beautiful Isle of Orleans in its midst, and the Laurentides beyond, rising abruptly out of the plain like the tombs of the Troad. Not a stone's tlirow from mv door once rose the Chateau of St. Louis, from Avliich Xew Erance Avas governed ; and just beyond is Dutt'erin Terrace, the magnificent promenade along the face of the precipice, A\'liich leads to the toAvering citadel, and seems to me QUEDEC: THE CAPITAL OP ^^E^V FRANCE. 45 conceived and named Avitli uniciue ai)pr()priateiiess. With the exception of Wolfe, no Englishman who ever went to Canada lives in the hearts of the people like Lord Diilferin. Wc were in Canada the hest ])art of two years, and never passed a day withont hearing some kindly tvihutc to his memory. Each town treasnros up the words in which, with a felicity entirely his own, he summed np or picked out its outward and visihlc graces and true claims to gre^^'- ness. No Governor-General ever enjoyed such a popularity, and exercised such a restraining oi in spiring influence. Lord Derhy, with his s>nii wi Ixmhomie, used constantly to complain that Loi'd Dutferin was such an impossihle man to folio . iie ahvays said and did the right thing. And Lord Derhy w\is vight ; Lord Dufferin's Viceroyalty ac- cumulated in Canada a perennial fund of loyalty to England. No fitter monument could have heen chosen to l)ear his name than Dulferin Terrace, which is to the citadel of Quchec what the Propylaia Avas to the Acropolis of Athens — the avenue to the crowning glory of city and country. Quehec — the first port on the great river St. LaAvrence, the highway Avhich is to make Chicago and Toronto, Euffalo and Port Arthur seaports when a little dredging has heen done — is the gate of Canada ; and its citadel Avill he for ever associated ill the minds of patriotic Canadians (and what Canadian is not patriotic ?) with Wolfe and the M I \Y «,'1 ' i 4(5 O.V Tllb: CARS AND OFF. C()ii((ii(vst of Caiuuhi. .Vs one steams across tlic loi'dly bay ill Avliich tlic J sic of Orleans is situated, aliaost before the citadel one notices the noble sAveep o1' J)ulVerin Terrace. As a t>reat writer once remarked, " It is the first noticeabk; thine? in Canada"; and Ik; added with much felicity *' It connects the old order Avith the nen." It Avas the lia])[)iest idea to make the ancient capital of one of our most important colonies a monument to Lord DulVerin, because if all our colonies had had Lord Dulferins for Governors the United States Avould still have been part of the Empire. This promenade, hcforo the landslip temporarily Avrccked it, hade fair to be a joy for ever, standing as it did tAVO hundred feet ahovc the river — a l)road SAVccp of planking as smooth as the deck of a man-of-AA'ar, a quarter of a mile long, and commanding such a vicAv. I shall not easily forget that first morning on Duffcrin Terrace. Eirst of all hiscenseur, a queer elevator, AAorking on a very steep inclined plan(\ carried us doAvn to the quaint old fisher toAvii clustered round " Notre Dame Des Victoires," the tiny church Avliich commemorates to patriotic and superstitious Canucks the repulse of Sir AVilliam Phipps in 1G90 and the storm-scattering of ^Valker's fleet in 1711. It Avas called " Notre Dame de Victoire " from 1G90 to 1711. The church stands in a dear little seventeenth-century square, the quaintest bit hut one in the Xcav AVorld ; and nearer in is the >i'(U.v most •)) oV rked, ; ami (' old iicieiit lies a .1 Olll' rs the :)l' the oravily lini:^ as I sweep -Avar, a [I view. mg oil b queer plane, town s," the tic and Allliam Talker's amc do ands ill uaintcst m is the N u u Cli.'i (|UU con nl)oi f)rol mid wiir liahi old ; T] witli St. J Tlic I'ock; occu with lir»llS rock the i of it hoiij ^'mp laid face; l\ Wol tlie SCO I tllp (jirKnrj': the capital of new ehaxce. 47 Cliampliiiii nijirkct-placc, wlicn; tlic llmc-lioiiourcd ([iiiick witli liis vci^ctaMc iiHMliciiics, and tlu* Indian coni-doctoi' witli liis loii^* liair, who used to drive about drawn hy lour wliito liorscs, still (»xcit(^ the pi'oroundcst faith, conductiiiii^ tlicir jji'orcssions in \\m midst of a mcdh'v ol' dried t()l)acco h'avcs, maph'- sui^ar cakes, l)hick puddinj^s, hlocks of Frozen milk in winter, ruhl)ishy liaberdashery and sabots, Avhich the iial)itants, in tlioir coarse l)lue home-made serg-es of ohl Breton fashions, come to sell or buy. This old-fashioned Lower Town is most interestinif with its qu(!er storcvs, where the hardy sailors of the St. Lawrence ])uy their lishini^' and hoatiui;' outfits. The old mansard-roofed houses on tin; slojx^ ol the rock, swallowed iq) in the landslip, were, of course, occupied by the poor Irish. They rei^ard Providence with much less awe than the rent collector. Their linuses are the quaintest in Quebec, backing- on the rock still many of them, and inhabited in spite of the terrific warning of the landslip, when vast massifs of it came down like an avalanche and ovcrwlielm(;d houses and people alike. There is a ghastly photo- graph on sale in Quebec of rows of dead children laid out for the coroner, telling with peaceful little faces how in'^tantancous was their destruction. Prom this t lie lower road would have taken us to Wolfe's Cove, but avc wished to be on the terrace for th(; noonday gun-fire ; so we reascended, in time to sec a stately Allan liner cross the dancing waves of the bay, and run under the citadel, which, being a 48 OX THE CARS AND OFF. liovul lUiiil steamor, she dulv suliitcd \\\X\\ cannon. It madc^ a fine spoctaclo, tlio j^roat steamer swinging* with tlie tide as sIk; anchorfxl, a white puff coming from her side, and heyond her the transpontine suhurh of Levis, perched on tlie side of the hill, croAMKHl with the tliree great forts. In the morning th(> terrace seems principally occii- pi(Hl 1)Y old men with telescopes, and tourists. The voung men and maidens Avait for the evening, Avlien tlie l)and plavs and shadc^s are friendlv. J- » t The new St. Louis Gate is an exceedingly hand- some one ; and when it has stood as long as the one it replaced, its terraced top and chateau turret, and guard-house will make it picturesque enough to he a worthy entrance to the picturesque old ramparts, with their facing of hoary stone hanked w\X\\ turJ', trodden into devious paths hy the feet of moonliglit lovers. In the shadow outside the St. Louis Gate some fln(? tennis courts intrude tlie nineteenth century ; and on opposite sides of the road, just beyond, rise the stately Parliament House of the Province of Qu(^l)ec, and a beautiful grey stone liuild- inij; in the old turreted French stvle, the Drill ILill. Tliis hit of rampart runs riglit doAvn to tiie St. Jojin's Gate, bringing one to tlie market, "where tlie inhal)itants sell hirch-hark pottles of fruit in summer, and come in every variety of strange frost- wrap in the Avinter. Xot so very far from this gate, along tlie St. Pove Road, is the monument to Levis and Murray, the 'Vood- "f QJ^EBKC: Tin-: CAPITAL OF NFAV FRANCE. 4!) one Pronch and Britisli g-cncrals on the battle-lic^ld, wliicli saw, as the British snllenly retreated, the hist ray of snccess that c^ihled the French arms. The fortress called the Citadel towers right over Dnll'erin Terrace, and the little Governor's garden, Avitli its monninent, so honourahle to the chivalrons- ness of England, erected hv Governor-General Lord Dalhonsie to the joint memory of Wolfe and Mont- calm. The Citadel stands on Cajie Diamond, three hundred and tifty feet above the river; and if its lieavy granite ramparts were made the basis of a modern earthwork, the fortress would be immenselv strong, as it could fire its shot point l)lank on to tlie decks of an attacking fleet that tried to run the gauntlet, and Avould have to be attacked from a great distance to train the fleet guns liigli enough. The last evening before we left Ave ascended the apex of the Citadel to take our leave of Quel)ec and study once more the battle-field on which Erance bade good-bye to the New World. There were the turf outworks of the Erench fortress that held out against Wolfe's bombardment so long, and beyond them the Martello towers, erected by the victorious English, and the column built over the ruins of the monu- ment that marked the place where Wolfe died with the shouts of victory in his ears. Beyond the woody point of Sillery the river was lost to the gaze ; so we instinctively turned to the left to look over the broad, surging river to Levis, whence W'olfc^ tore Quebec to 2)ieces with his cannonade — 4< \ § \U :%t \ ON THE CARS AND OFF. and tli(3 great bay formed by the historical island of Orleans, with the spires of the good St. Anne glisten- ing in the sunlight, and the distant blue Laurentides rising out of the plain beyond. Distant mountain and sea-like expanse of river ; stately shipping ; crumbling ramparts bristling witli the cannon of a bygone day ; Norman houses with steep-pitched roofs and dormer windows; fantastic l)uildings piled at all sorts of elevations up the rock, historic and romantic alike for exploration and battle; and the glittering Canadian summer and winter, have conspired to make Quebec one of the unique places of the world — a promontory in one's memory. I purposely left the Citadel to the last. The keep, «till used as a fortress, but with a sadly reduced gnr- I'ison and an insignificant armament, is a little dis- appointing. The keenest pleasure I could get out of it was to go at dusk to ramble in the deep moat under the lofty ramparts, based in rich clusters of toad Hax, whose intense orange and yello"\v glimmered even by night. Here, cut off from all sights of to-day, one could meditate on the romantic history of the New- World Trov. And sometimes tlie glamour would be licightened by the apparition on the ramparts of the captive ])ear, or the imprison(;d bison, kept by the ()f!ic(?rs, poor relics of the ])rimtevality so rapidly t'oi'saking America. The effect of the bison especially — f, fierce vounj? bull — as he stood with his leonine lie.id silhouetted against the twilight, growling ominously, was A\-eird, even pathetic. lace, then U'rown was to gill ("itad(| the si CHAPTER V. THE BATTLE OF QUEBEC. AS somo people arc horn witliout the nohle ra<]^e to enjoy a l)attle I shall give the Battle of Q,uehec, one of the most picturesque in history, a chapter to itself — a quantity to he neglected at pleasure. It was fought upon the Plains (or Heights) of Ahraham, so called after Master Ahraham the Scot, nominated King's pilot of the St. Lawrence in IGiO, whose full name, Ahraham Martin, occurs hoth on the par'sh and tne prison registers. They now con- tain the magnificent Houses of Parliament and Drill Hall, a hig asylum or jail, and a flourishing sul.iirh cf the city. In those days the plains were open from the walls of the Citadel to Cap Rouge, and slightly Avooded, especially on their precipitous river face, approachaT)le only by a path wliich could not then take tAvo meii abreast, thougli it has since H'rown into a high road of a sort. ^lontcalm, Avho was a good general, leaving fifteen lumdrtKl men to < AND OFF. to t]i(? city, tlic only point whove an attack could be siicccsshil if the (lefondors M-erc on tlio alert. "\Vh(Miever the city Avas threatened he could thus force on a 1)attle. "Wolfe, Avho had a fleet to co- operate with him, and expected to be joined l)y Amherst's army of twelve thousand men, and Sir AVilliam Jolmson's Indians, had entrenched J.imsc^H' on the Isle of Orleans ; and on the Quebec bank ot , ".:>'r ,i ■ ■" ■ "''v'r v-r^ ^y •'■■ Ik 1 ;■, *4^' ■ A '.'■v.' 'i ' ' ' \ Vii^i !:. (*.- ' ^iPKct QUEBEC FROM POINT LEVIS. {Noliiian. the St. Lawrence, separated from Montcalm by the river Montmorency, which lier(? throws itself over the famous falls; and on the south bank at what is now called Tiinis. He had Avaited in vain for both Amherst and Johnson ; and his attempt to force tlu French lines at +he Montmorency had been disastrously repulsed. "On Sept. Dth," says Lord :\la]ion, ''he wrote as i! anxious to piepare the pul)lic mind of Eui^land Itf. Tin: llATTLK OF 'jrEBEC. 53 for his failuro or retreat." lie was prostrated \\'\\\\ a fever, aiul siilferini? aii:onv fi'om an int(;rnal disease. llis concludini;' words were, " My con- stitution is entirely riiincMl, without the consohition of havin": done anv considerahk' service to the State, or witliout any prosj^ect of it." Eour days after this he tried a final couj), Avith the genius and audacity of a Xelson, and won for his country in the early hours of an autumn niorniui^ an empire that is almost as lari^e as luiroi)e. Leaviui^^ Admiral Saunders from the Isle of Orleans to feint an attack upon the city from helow, and Admiral Holmes to feint another attack thrcn* leagues above the city, Wolfe dropped qui(;tly down on the tide, to avoid the noise of the rowing, to a little bay two miles above Quebec, since knoAvn as Wolfe's Cove. lie had only bateaux enoucrh for half his force, about sixteen hundred men, but he land(;d these ; and the l)oats, as soon as the alarui Avas raised and all motive for stealth had passed, hastened back with all possible speed for the remainder. As c path up from the cove to the Plains of Abr;i m above Avould only take Indian file, the men scram])lcd up the almost precipitous face o the heights, hans-ing on to the bushes and trei . and l(*ft the path to the sailors who Avere dragging up the single gun. The French guard of one hundred and iiftv men lieard th(;m, fired, received their return fire, and *^ m I. \ 54 o.v Tin: CARS axd off. fled in a panic, tliou^^li they could have rewritten the liistorv of the New World l)v hehaviiiii witli ordinary courage. Once on the heights, Wolfe ordered his men with the utmost skill, so as to hold the ground till the remainder of his force could come up. Montcalm would not credit the alarm till he had seen for himself, hut rode oft" at once to see. "Oui, je les vols, on ils ne doivent pas etre," he confessed ; hut he added, to cheer his army, " Je yais les ecraser" (to smasli them up). He knew his peril. The British, inferior in namher, were steadier troops. Though galled by his skirmishers, they reserved their fire, as Wolfe ordered, till Avithin forty paces, and then pouring it in with deadly effect, the English with the bayoiu^t, and the Highlanders with the claymore, were on th_o Erencli before they could recover, and the bnttle Avas over. Pitt, the elder, had but recently l)rou2:ht out his Hio-hland Reijiment scheme. The Avild yells of Eraser's clansmen have passed into histor ' l)y the ghastly impression of ferocity wliich they made upon the Erencli. Wolfe was thrice shot, and the third Avound brought him doAvn. ConveA^ed dving to tr.e rear, lie gazed Avith lifted head till his sight failed, and he fell back speechless and motionless. Suddenly a bystander called out, "See lioAV they run!" "Who run?" he cried, raising himself on his elliOAV. " The enemy ; they gi^.-e AA'ay in all directions." " Then God be praised ; I shall die happy." less j( surrer have fell ) diseasi A\'as ;. ^^f THE BATTLI-: OF (Jl'EIiKC. 55 A column inscri1)etl, " lloro died Wolfe, victorious, Scptemlicr the 13tli, 1759," marks the place on the battle-field where he fell. Four or five days afterwards the Sire de llamczay, ■ •' ^i'lifm^y GENERAL WOLI't'/S MONUMENT. less jealous of the honour of France than ]\Iontcalm, surrendered the city, which the Enijjlish could not have taken had he held out a few weeks, the wintcn* fell so early that year. Tlie poor, shot-riddled, diseased hody of the thirty-three-year-old f^eneral was carried back to his iwifive Kent to rest in 56 ON T/fi: r.ll.'S AN/) OFF. Grconwieli cliurcli. ll('i;ai'(lin<;' tin; Ciinada ol' to-day, ono mii^ht well apply to Iiim tliat cpitapli of "VVroii, " Loctoi*, si monuinontuin rccpiiris, cii'cuinspic*(\" His ()))p()nont, tlu; gallant ]Marquis of Montcalm, (lied amid cont'usioii so dii'(! that liistory was loni^ in doubt whether he dra^'i^'ed his sorely wounded l)ody as far as his own mansion on the ramparts or died on the way to the Chateau oi' St. Louis. Men are still alive, or recently dead, avIio liaAe li(,'ard eye- witnesses relate liow they saw tlu; trail made hy his blood doAvn the Grande AUec (now St. Louis Street). Tin; story of Montcalm has been most eloquently told by the historian of Quebec, Mr. J. M. Le Moine,* himself of Prench-Caiiadian extraction, to a mixed audience of the desceiulants of the conquerors and the conquered at the local historical society. On(; can almost sec from his description the St. Louis Gate, which leads to tlu; Plains of Abraham, open to admit the -tricken commander, held on to his g'reat black chari^cr by tAvo tall grenadiers, pale Avitli the loss of l.dood Avhich was streaming from his Avounds, but lacing lii> end with the composure of the Grand Seigneur. Women had heard the cry that Wolfe Avas at the gate — the roar of artillery — the incessant roll of musketry, and AAcre craning their necks anxiously out of the quaint OAerhanging AA'indoAAs of the Grande Allee. * Author of many tleliglitful, picturestjue, and most invaluable books about Quebec and it> vicinity. Tin: uATTLi: (IF nf'i:ni:r. 57 " Oh, iiion DicLi, jiion Dicii ! Ic !Miir(iui.s est tut' ! " tlu'v crkul. His coiirtiv bvccdinii: ti'iuni])h('(l for a momont over the pain of liis wounds, as ho strove to reassure them. " Co n'est rien, c(! n'est rien ; no vo\is afflis^ez pas pour moi, mes bonnes amies ! " Now Ave knoAV that lu; was taken into tlie ancient Conv(.Mit of the Ursulines, because^ he kicked the stren«;th to proceed to his own mansion or the Chateau oF St. Louis. Tliere hi) sent i'ov the Kini^'s Lieutenant in charge of the Quebec garrison — tliat Sire d(; llamezav, whose okl mansion still stands in the busiest street of Montreal — and the colonel of the Rousillon llegiment. " Gentlemen, to your kcepini;' I commend tin; honour of France. Endeavour to securer the retreat of my army to-night beyond Cap Rouge. As for myself, I shall pass the night with God, and prepare for death." lliglit in the heart of Quel^cc there still exists the Ursulinc Convent, founded in 1G59 by Madame de la Peltrie, in answer to an earnest appeal from the Jesuits that something should be done for the female children of the Indians. It is a quaint old building — buildings age so quickly in the New World. Hither, at nine o'clock in that Septeml)er evening of 1759, his remains were followed l)y I)e Eamezay and the officers of the garrison, with a military escort. He was Ijuried most approi)riately in a sjiot ft8 OS THE (JARS AND OFF. ill the cliapc^l floor wlicro a ])om1) had Tallcii tlii'oiii;h tlio roof antl torn up the tla«?s. " A few citizens had leathered in," said ^\v. Le Moine, " and anion i^st the rest one k*d by tlie hnnd his little dani-'litei', who, looking into the j^rave, saw and remeinl)ered, more than thrcH^-foiirtlis of a centnry later, th(5 rough wooden l)()x, wliieli was all the ruined city could afford to enclose the remains of her del'endcr." POUTE ST. LOUIS, T in them a of the rivals There " when enviror manifo! of cahs represe use in (pronoi of the Canada the wo drawn no plac your i'e c travelli a burle One CllArTEU VI HE LOW (jri:ni:a 'i rpilIERE arc seventy thousand people in Quel)(»c, -^ mostly cabmen. The centre of attraction to them all seemed to he exactly opposite; the front door of the dear old house at 3, St. Louis Street, which rivals the hotels in its attraction for stranq-cn's. There was a splendid diversity in their utterances when they were unfolding* the i,4ories of the environs of Quehec, hut a strant^e unanimity in manifolding their prices. Quehec deals in two kinds of cabs : the four- wheeler of effete civilisation heini'' represented by a kind of Avag'gonette, such as they use in Melbourne ; and the hansom by the ralcche (pronounced calash), which was the modish vehicle of the seventeenth-century France perpetuated in Canada. The calcche, more than anything else; in the world, resembles an enormously high jinriksha, drawn by a horse instead of a man ; it has really no place for the driver, who balances himself over your feet. Being on leather springs it is very easy travelling, and you feel as if you Avere acting in a burlesque all the time. One fine day we hired a calcche to go to the famous ■> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I lfa|2£ 125 |jo ^^" H^H lu lU 12.2 £: bfi 12.0 IL25 i 1.4 ik 1.6 Hiotographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREIT WEBSTER, N.Y. I4S80 (716)872-4503 ^\^ i\ 5V \\ 4 ;\ '^ ^^^ •^>^^ ^v^ fy ^ t ^<. 60 ON THE CARS AND OFF. Montmorency Falls, Avliich art' a liundrtHl I'cot lii«;;li('r than Niap^ara, thoui^h the river is so inconsiderable that in very dry weather they threaten to share the fate of the Australian waterfall at Govctt's Leaji, which never reaches the bottom at all, but somewhere in mid-air dissipates itself into spray for the sport of the winds. In the winter, however, there is a good fall till the water gets frozen into the finest and most dangerous toboggan slide in the world. One winter an enterprising caterer scooped a fairy palace liELdW QUIIBEC. i;i or grotto at the ])ottom of the ice, and drove a roariui; trade in licensed victuals. On the way Ave took in the Indian villacje ol Lorette — painfully civilised. The chief of tln' Ilurons, a tribe so powerful onc(^ as almost to amount to our idea of a nation, lives in a cottage, in seedy European clothes like a retired gardener's, I and only puts on his native dress on great occasions, such as a Good Templar's picnic, or when he has to go through the fiction of transacting tribal business. But he makes a very good living by selling shilling birch-bark canoes, and shilling deer-skin knife cases embroidered with beads, and mocassins up to a couple of dollars. His wife on ordinary days looks like a charwoman ; but she rises to great occasions by wearing an old chimney-pot hat, with a long, ':\ !■' -««a 62 OX Tin-: cAh'S axd off. 4 broad sasli of the brii'htest Mrs. Gladstone blue tied round it in the most approved funeral fashion. She looks very fine in that. An enterprising Irish surveyor has married tlu; chief's comely daughter, with a view to the rev(;rsion of the Huron crown and revcnuci;, the chief owning a considerable amount of land in the village. These Indians here are very devout, worthy people, regular attendants at the little chapel which they have used for nearly two hundred years. The power of the tribe was stamped out long, long ago by their hereditary enemies, the fierce Iroquois. Near the village are the famous Falls of Lorette, of which the most jiicturesque part is the fierce, deep cascade below, tearing through the rocks that bind it in, like the famous Strid in Wharfcdale, and over-awed by precipitous Avooded heights. As you drive back into town convinced by ex- perience that going down a hill in a ralcche doesn't necessarily mean breaking your neck, you will dis- mount for a minute or two to walk reverently ov(»i' the ruins of the old Duchesnay manor house, Mont- calm's headquarters all through that terrible summer of 1750, and the simple home of De Salaberry, who saved Canada for the British by his victory in ISIJJ at Chateauguay. As one nears home one passes by a very historical spot, where three hundred and fifty years ago, in 1535, Jaques Cartier landed and wintered. A monument marks the spot where he erected the liELOW QVEliEC. 0)5 icjil in A the first cross that stood in tho northern part of this continent. Not far oif tho city surveyor of Quebec, three hundred years, later unearthed the stout oak timbers of the Petite llermine^ a ship of sixty tons, which Cartier beached and left here. And only a little farther is the entrenched camp, twelve acres in (extent and surrounded by a ditch and an earth- work tAventy feet high, in which Montcalm's army sheltered themselves from the cannonadini? of Wolfe's fleet. The field is circular, hence called the " Ring- field." I stood on the spot, classical with the memories of Cartier and Montcalm, late one summer afternoon. I had intended to diverge to the lonely valley that contains the exquisite ruins of the Chateau of tln^ Intendant Bigot. Many a dark deed it probably saw in its day, for Bigot's cruelties and profligacy are liistorical. I regret that in a lazy mood I made up my mind that it was too late, and that I would make another expedition of it, which expedition, of course, I never did make. So, instead of wandering among the roofless ruins of Chateau Bigot, we drove through the picturesque Lower Town, with its narroAv streets scooped out of the rock-side, its tall stone houses with their steep-pitched roofs and dormer windows, and its ancient market-place. I Avent once again to the Montmorency Falls on a picnic, which I am not likely to forget. The Press Association of Ontario Avere beinsjf entertained bv the Municipality and Press of Quebec, the former |. 1, fei- A: I ■Bia 64 ON THE CAU>i AXn OFF. ])rosiimal)ly playini^ paymaster. T df) not know Mh(;r(; 1 came in, cxc(;pt that I happened to be stayini^ in Quebec, and that Canadian hospitality to strani^ers knows no l)ounds. We h*ft Quelxjc on a bright summer morninL? lor a trip down the harbour, and went lirst to inspect tlic; port, more especially the Princess Louise basin, erected at such a cost. All went sAvimmingly till we nearly had to swim for it, from Ixunj^ run into by one of the (quaint wooden ferry-boats, two or three stories hiij;h, used on the St. Lawrence like other American rivers. If our boat had been seriously damaged, there would have been a run on the Quebec morj^ue, for the Avliole of the French journalists of the city, eacli talking his loudest, made a bolt to the hold at the heels of the captain ; and captain, engineers, and journalists must have gone to the bottom like sardines in a box if the boat had sunk, for it took lliem about five minutes to extricate themselves from the inspection. The Englishmen above took things in their level-headed way, reflecting that, if there were a hole in the steamer's bottom, it would do them less good to inspect it than to be on deck with a life-belt handy ; and the French mayor's beautiful young wife and the other ladies sat still and showed the most difficult kind of i)luck. The Press came up w^ithout having been able to lay their fingers on a hole in the ship's bottom, but with an air of disappointment and distrust which cast a distinct gloom over the expedition, until an idea of genius striic l*ress iinles St. J little a mer over, were got tl; our li pronoi the n( conspi( the or to oui Lourdt of tlie of Ho Zurich centur tlie fou a Prot beyond houses the slir Churcli TJie shr the fam with o/ and ot •1 ' I' IU:L0W QCEIiEC. G> if do il'lll )WCtl ami' Lgcrs struck the ivprosoutativi; of La Minerrc tliat the Press of Ontario would not l)c properly treated unless they wen; taken over the i^raviiii^ dock ol" St. Joseph's, where the Pohinesian was liavini^ a little hole of twenty-four feet s(piare in her hows — a memento of her meetini^ with the Cijnthid — i)late(l over. \Vc fell into the trap hlithely ; and whih^ we were inspectiuL^ the Poli/nt'.sinn, the wily ^linerva ij^ot the chief surveyor of the dockyard to insp(?ct (Hir little steamer. The; contusion was found, and pronounced insi<^nificant, and Minerva AvhispcnMul the neAvs ; and we re-emharked and vovaured Avith conspicuous voluhility and li«^htlieartedness alonu' the orchard-crowded shores of tin; Isle of Orleans to our destination, Ste. Anne de Beaupre, the Lourdes of New France. I was reminded strani^ely of the i^reat Al)l)(\y of Einsiedeln, which Meinrad of llohenzollern founded in the Avild hills hehind Zurich a thousand vears aijro, reverentlv visited ten centuries afterwards hv the "greatest of all his race, the founder of the new German Emi)ire, thoui^h a Protestant. The village consists of very little heyond the great cathedral and a few hoarding- houses ojiposite, Avhich arc run in connection Avith the shrine in the naive Avay in Avhich the Catholic Church in Canada combines commerce and salvation. The shrine of the good 8t. Anne, like the shrine of tho famous Black Virgin of Einsiedeln, is blockaded with offerings of crutches, Avooden legs, sj)ectacles, and other props to infirm humanity supersedcMl 5 I \ ^^ ;> 66 ON THE CARS AND OFF. by lu'i* intercessions. There are i)ictures too, less notable as works ol' art than Tor their Zola-like realism or (li^;hts of the iniai^i nation. Shi))wrecks, fires, mnrdt^rs, pestilences, yield to the sanctity of the a^ood St. Ainie. As far as I can make out, slie Jiad tri(Ml her hand on everythiiii^ except exj)losions in mines and railway collisions. TVe pili^rims seemed expected to buy somethinj^, and you could buy nearly anythini^, from a rosary or a clieaj) imajj^c of the Saint down to a photou^raph of the Falls or a penholder blessed by l)eini^ sold under the sacred roof. The piety of the devotees affected me ; there Avere all sorts, from wealthy and elei^ant leaders o*' Quebec society to women from the forest, in homespun, all kneeinj^ the floor in a a^entle passion of ])iety. AVhenever I looked from the ramparts of Quebec down the ij^reat river to the twin spires of this cathedral, ijflitterini^ like i^old with their roofini? of rustv tin, I used to think of these transfi«^ured women ; and then it schemed to me that the secret of th(5 extraordinarv vitalitv and infiuence of the Catholic Church mii«;ht be that it can dispense to its children a peace of God Avhich passes the understandini*- of the iiulifferent. The whoh' valley of the St. Lawrence L?litters with such stee])les. From St. .Vnne's Ave Avere the first passengers Avho ever travellcMl by the (Quebec, Montmorency, and Charlevoix Kailroad, just finished. We felt a little " previous " Avlien Ave found that the only roUinii' stock ])rovided Avere the "platforms" used for carr' nailr as th trucJ ment scrtvi time two ( Falls respec two I] uptnej. nith h ii furti typitici mossy banks, crouch on tlie the Avc ^vith el nianai^c they ]m sllOAV U} first anc ])(*!• cen stai^(« a till the up tlie Montnioi llEUtW QrEDEC. 67 cari'vinuf mils and sl('(»p(»rs, witli wooden i'onns nailod on to tlunn to prcvont you from slip|)inu; oil", as tlioi't; is no kind of rail or sid*; to those j)latrorni trucks. Tlic forms were not oven plancnl; and 1 may mention tliat it was rainini; luiavily. The ladies screamed, and thought thev were cominu' olV ever> time the eni^inc driver put the hrake on. We made two or three stoppaiijes ; one to inspect the famous Falls at Montmorency, which that day had quite a respoctabh; little river fallini^ over the pr(»cipice of two hundred and sixty-five feet hii^h, showiiiL;' the aptness of tlu? habitants' name for the fall, La Vache, with its masses of milk-white foam, ^[ontmorency lias a further interest, for on opposite sides of this river, typified in the broken bridi^e which has a road of mossy turf loapini? into space from each of its lofty banks, Wolfe and Montcalm watclu'd (»ach other like crouchiniij cats before Wolfe made his decisive sprini^ on the Heights of Abraham. We stopped, too, at the works which supply the entire; city of Que])ee with electric lii^lit tjenerated by the falls. Here the manat^iement committed a grave error of judgment : they had a mass of interesting scientific apparatus to show us, but luifortunately decided to give us food first and information afterwards. .Vbout seventy-five j)er cent, of the picnickers never got to the science stage at all, preferring to pop off cliampagnc corks till the train started. But I dare sav thev wrote up the company's ciforts just as enthusiastically. Montmorency Falls are no less than nine miles from % ■ ^ 68 0\ THE CAHS AND OFF. [ountain Hill Eoad. AVe never ij^ot to Quebec at all ; that is to say, the railway never did, for it suddenly lost itself in the mud down by the riven- St. Cliarh^s, and we had to iind our way home in open cabs and a dehisce; of rain,— a conclusion that midit have? been dismal to a most interestini; and amusini,' day, had it not been enlivened for me by the company of Dr. Geori^e Stewart, the centre of Eni^-lish literary life in Quebec, and one of the most brilliant prose writers Canada has produced, whose UH. (JEOlUii; STEWART. liELOW (jrEllllC, ou \\ s life of Canada's iifroatcst riovornor, Lord DullVrin, i^ already a classic — a strikiiiu:-l(M)kliiu: inaji, with his keen, twinkliiii' hliic eves and hcavv hhick nioustaclu'. It was h(* who skctclu'd out in advance tor nic, almost point by point, the s|)(H'ch the FnMich Mayor oi' (iuchcc would make at luncheon, about tlu; Knii:lish conquest of New France l)tini^ as j)rolitable to the conquered as the Norman comiuest had been 1<> En«i;land, and, in fact, the whole affair beiui:: merely Norman conquerini^ Norman, for Canada Avas mostly colonised frtnu Normandv and Jirittanv. lie made me laui^h, too, when w(; W(M*e met on our return by a pretentious militia ollicer, who was ^oini;' to the Goveinor-Cjenerars ball in i.ie Citadel, and was afraid he should be calhul ui)on to make a si)eech at the sup2)er. There wer(? two men-of-war in the river, II.M.S. BeUeroplton and II.jM.S. ]\i//:elv due to their athletic clul)s, which are almost more important than social clubs, tlioui^h the St. James's is a very fine club, and the Metropolitan the reverse of dull. Montreal i^oes mad upon athletics ; it has snow-shoeing* clu1)s, tol)Ogganing clubs, rinking- clubs, hunt clubs, lacrosse clubs, football clubs, and what not else ; and in the winter hockey on the ice and sleighing parties fill the whole atmosphere. Millionaires mostly betray their orii^in bv their enthusiasm over the Curling- Club ; it is no uncommon sight to see a man sixty years old, worth £200,000, playing crossing-sweei)er on the rink, Avhile his daughters telephone to the candy shops for boxes of choice sweets, as the en- thusiasm of the younger generation weakens. Pretty nearly every house and shop in ^lontreal has its telephone. The day I arrived I called upon a lady to deliver a letter of introduction from Mrs. Moulton, the ciiief American poetess, whose literary receptions are one of the features of the 1 % K H ON THE CARS AXD OFF. London season. No sooner had I effected tlie intro- duction than the hidy went to her telephone, and within half an hour there were twenty or thirty people meeting me at afternoon tea, with every kind of luxurious sweetmeat and confection, sent in, as they were arriving, from the leading confectioner. I never was in a town where the telephone had such a perfect system as in Montreal. Montreal is the New York of Canada, just as Toronto is the Chicago. Like New York, though neither the national nor the provincial capital, it contains the finest buildings and the head offices of the great companies. Montreal is a delightful city, laid out for the most part in rectangles, hounded by fine broad streets, lying between the mountain dubbed Mount lloyal by Jacques Cartier in 1535, and the St. Lawrence, here nearly two miles wide. Montreal is properly the name of the island on which the city stands, the city having been christened Ville Marie de Montreal. The story of the founda- tion is thus told by Dawson : — " It was an attempt to found in America a veritable Kingdom of God, as understood by devout Roman Catholics. In the year 1636 the Abb6 Olier, a zealous priest, while praying in the Church of St. Germain de Pres, in Paris, received, or thought he received, a divine revelation to found upon the island of Montreal a society of priests for the propagation of the true faith in the New World. Led by various mystical guidings, he formed the MONTREAL: THE PRINCIPAL CITY OF CANADA. 75 ^1 of uc(iuaintancc of Dauversiere, a rocoivci* of taxes in. Anjoii, whose mind had heen prepared in a similar manner. These two men resolved to found upon the island three religious orders — one of priests, to preach the true faith ; one of nuns, to nurse the sick ; and a third, also of nuns, to educate the younij^. The dream of these enthusiasts is to-day realised in the seminary of St. Sulpice, the hospital of the Hotel Dieu, and the schools of the Congrega- tion of Notre Dame. Olier and Dauversiere had very little money, hut they found the Baron dc Fancamp, who was rich'; and, with the aid of three otliers, they purchased in the year 1610 the seigniory of the island of Montreal from the company to whom it had heen granted hy the king of France. Then, finding in Paul de Chomedey, Sieur dc Maisonneuve, a suitahle leader, they sent out in lOil the colony which, in May 1642, the year the great rehellion hroke out in England, founded the city of Montreal. " When the Governor of Quehec sought to dissuade the chivalrous De Maisonneuve, from settling at ' the siege perilous,' he replied, ' Monsieur, your reasoning would he conclusive if I had heen sent to deliheratc upon the selection of a suitahle site ; hut the comj)any having decided that I should go to Montreal, it is a matter of honour, and I trust that you will not he displeased that I settle my colony there.' And again, when further pressed, * Gentlemen, if all the trees of the island of Montreal were changed into Iroquois, I am hound by 1 #■ lU.. ■?.»(, '. A". It 76 ON THE CARS AND OFF. honour and duty to 2^0.' The founding of ^Montreal would be a splendid text for *]^oody-i?oody story l)Ooks ; for De Maisonncuvc's blind obedience to tlui instruction of Olicr, Dauversiere, and Dc Pancamp lias resulted in the Sulpician Fathers inheritini^ one of the noblest properties ever held by an eccle- siastical corporation." Such, in brief, was the origin of the chief city of Canada, and the Fathers are still landlords of the city and the island, with their boundless potentialities of wealth. How rich the Catholic Church is here may be seen at a i^lance, if one climbs the mountain which gave the Villc Marie de Montreal its name ; for spread out at his feet, on every vantage point, Avill be seen rising huge barracks or stately churches, the barracks being this or the other Catholic school or hospital ; and more than half the churches are dedicated to the same faith. The offices and head- quarters of the Fathers of St. Sulj)ice are in the dear old l)uilding adjoining Xotre Dame, built nearly two hundred years ago. The seminary is at the western end of the city, made picturesque with grim round towers and block-houses of the old Fort dc la Montague. These, with their quaint steeple roofs, arc two of the oldest edifices in Montreal, having been built by the city's founder, De Maison- neuve, for 2^i"otection against the Iroquois. The seminary, with its eight hundred students, is known as the Montreal College, and is affiliated to the Laval University at Quebec. iiilt at ith iFort eplo ertl, sou- Tlu' OAvn tlu' • Sr i ^ 78 ox Tin: CAlifi AXD OFF. ■n t ■■ I- i I , From Montreal Collru^c one naturallv used to proceed to Villa IMaria, the superl)ly situated Motlier House of the Sisters of the Coui^rei^atioii of Notre Uame. But last year a hald tcdegram from ]\[ontreal announced, " Tlie destruction ])y firc^ of the Convent of Villa Maria, insured for one hundred tliousand dollars, damai^es assessed at one million dollars. Nuns and pupils all safely removed," Tlie l)urnt convent house included the old Goverment House, occupied hy the Governor of tli(^ Canadas fifty years aj^o ; hut this Avas only a fraction of it. The Sisters added immense piles of huildinijjs. Tlie convent proper was huilt to receive one thousand nuns and three hundred pupils ; hut those accommodated in it formed only a small portion of the sisterhood. It was huilt on the slopes of Mount Royal, commandiui^ a view of the St. Lawrence as far {IS the White Mountains on the other side of the houndary, to cmhlematise its ramifications all over Canada and the United States, it having no less than one hundred and six daui^htcr houses in Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and Prince Edward Island, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Maine, Vermont, Illinois, NcAV York, etc., containing' one thousand nuns and twenty-five thousand pui)ils. The Sisters of the Comi'rei'ation of Notre Dame had not alwavs heen housed in tlic magnificent collegiate huildings of red hrick just destroyed. Until recently the Motlier House of t\m community was in St. Jean Ba2)tiste Street, with the chapel, entered hy an arch- f MONTREAL: TiTE PRfNC/PAL CITY OF CANADA. 7'.> 'I'S vs an ill- way Trom Notre Dame Street, upon tin; site of the cliurcli erccced in (.(){)3 by tlic foundress. Tin? 1)uil(l- ini' iust burnt down includ(»d a nunn(M'v with sufTicient accommodation for all the nuns in the order, besides a boardinuj school, church, and so on ; th(r pleasant theory bei/iij^ that, whencvcn* i\n) Sisters were; worn out with work, they should come to the Mother House for rest, and that there should be space for all to come tofif ether if necessary. The school was the most celebrated ladies' school on the continent, Protestants as Avell as Catholics from all parts of the United States and Canada coming to it. The church was notable even in Montreal, " The City of Church(»s " of the New World. It was in the Byzantine style, with a dome 1G5 feet hii^h and 31 fe(^t in diamc^ter over t\w hii^h altar, and with western towers IGO feet hii:^h. The church was 300 feet loni:^, with a his^h altar standing? mid-way in the nave; to aivide the nuns from the general public; it had a beautiful rose Avindow, and its 2)roportions were most har- moniously designed. There was a fine hall, used for speech-days and the like, in which the Comtek dc Paris Avas officially received when he visited, in ISOO, the institution founded under the protection of his ancestors in 1053 by Marguerite Bourgeois, who gave all her property to the poor, and came; out to Canada with Be Maisonnouve on his second voyage to establish an institution for the education of the female children of the settlers and Indians alike. The interior was to have been adorned Avith frescoes :«' ^ i 80 ON THE CAJiS AND OFF. of her visions and her la])ours among the poor Trench and savages in the hardships endured hy the early settlement in that rigorous climate. Anyway, it Avas better that the magnificent new buildings were destroyed rather than the venerable buildings in St. Jean Baptiste and Notre Dame Streets, where an old chapel still exists, built under the eye of the good Sister herself, whence, for two hundred years, the movements of the whole communitv were regulated. Happily the work of Marguerite Bourgeois is beyond the reach of fire, thovigh the noble l)uilding on Mount Royal, which rivalled the great Laval University in completeness, is no more. Villa Maria maintains the traditions of New France, the memory that the French flag which floated over Canada before the fatal day of Quebec was white and not tricoloured. The day the Comte de Paris visited it the French-Canadian and American girls, who came forward at the close of the charming musical reception to present addresses in French and English prose and verse, did not observe the diplomatic caution of the sterner sex, but frankly prayed for a speedy restoration of the heirs of Hugh Cai^et. Villa Maria ; the Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter's, an unfinished but stately copy of the original at Home ; and the Anglican Cathedral copied from Chicliester, bv no means exliaust the noble buildinsis of "The City of Churclies "; for under the mountain are conspicuous the broken outline of McGill, Montreal's BSffXSmEXjaJSSSTL- at MOSTHEAL: THE PRINCIPAL CITY OF CANAHA. 81 maij^niliccnt Uiiivorsity, and tlio ii:il(l(*(l dome of tlic Hotel Dieu ; and down in the city the superl) ))ai'isli churcli of Notre Dame, the iin(»st in the New Woi'hl, tlie Canadian-Pacilic-llaihvay huihlini;', tlie Windsor Hotel, and hall* a dozen others almost as tine. Notre Dame, rehuilt in lS2t< on the site of the church of 1()72, has towers 227 IVet liii;li, and a i^ood deal oi* the majestic apix'aranco ol' St. 8nl|)ice at Paris. The seii^ncurs of the Island of Montreal, it must 1)(? rememhered, are the Fathers of St. Sulpice. Inside, no church on this continent so recalls the carvinij^ and colour and richness of mediaeval cliurclies. Money is plentiful with the authorities ; yet they arc not content with their inheritance and tlie ott'erings of the faithful, hut make money out of tlie just and unjust l)y taking them up one of the towers in an elevator at twenty-five cents per head, which most people pay, quite as much for the curiosity of such a novel ecclesiastical proceedini*' as for the reallv tine view. Tliev are i>;reat on mechanical contrivances in this church, for the verv candles, excei)t on the altars, are not candles, hut electroliers. I saw a sini?ularly intercstin*^ ceremony there. The ii^reat churcli will seat from ten to fifteen thousand people, accordint»- to the packini^- the occasion will Avarrant ; hut from fifteen to twenty thousand peoj)l(^ had asscmhled to see the head of the House of rraiice, for the first time, at High I\[ass in New France. Hound the altar rails had been arranged a crescent () '% i' i M 'A{\ A2 n\ Tin: cms AM) OFF. ^'1 of iiJindsomc* rautcuils, in the cciitrc ol' wliicli sat th(^ heir of St. Louis, surrouiKlcd ])y tlic liiu:li olllcials ol* t\w Soci(»t,v of St. Jean Ba[)tist(', whom, witli chamctci'istic (Mi('i'i''y, lie had roccivod at 1) a.m. Tho St. .Ivan Ba])tist(! Society is to tlio Canadian I'nMicli wliat the St. (i(>()rL!:<''s, St. Andrew's, and St. Patrick's are to the Canadian EnL?lis]i, Scotch, and [rish, exceptiiii,^ tliat it is not a henelit society, and tliat it constitutes itself tln^ i;"nardian ol' the history and monuments and institutions of its race. I asked Iioav many nunuhers it mimbered. " How many French Canadians arc tlierc ? " was the reply. Preceded bv a Cfori^eous scarlet headle thev had escorted the Royal party up the nave amid a blare of joyous music. .Vlmost immediately afterwards the Bishop of St llyacinthe, Monseii^neur ]Moreau, prec(Hled by about two hundred clergy and acolytes, filled the dais of the apse. In this land, so remote from the pomp of princes, the stately ceremonies of the Roman Church schemed luiusually gori^eous and im]n'(^ssivc. The slow and frequent changiui^ of the bishop's vestments ; the black-and-Avhitc nu,'ii the s))eech of LanL-aiedoil, as at lionie, (lowed all round him. ILere, on th(5 day ol" Chateani;Miay (October 2()th), tlie i^reatest victory ever won hy the >'rench colonists f!u;htini^ Tor l]nii:land, the parish ])riest had the lionour of jn'cachini; before the Son of J'rance. lie addressed liim ])articiilarly, " ^[onseii^neur, et ^Tes Preros." A comical ohl chap Ik^ looked as ho mount(Ml the steep, windin;^ stairs to the hiL!;h ])ul[)it, preceded by tli(^ scarlet beadh?. \U\ Avas immtnisely fat; the men; exercise of speakinj;' made him perspire profusely ; and, as he warmed to his subj(»ct with real eloquence, he tried his constitution sorely with his muscular i;esticulations. His fat, round, red face and little cambric cape weiu; s(;t otf by the tall soundini^ board, towerini^ up almost to the rose- Avindowed roof ,"ith its pinnacles and double tiers of fii^'ures, three saints below, and Notre Dame above. The sermon over, a flood of rich music filled the church, and out of it welled, with increasing* volume, live hundred human voices. Suddenly a trumpet sounded, and a blaze of electric lig'hts dashed forth from every foot of the lofty apse, lightini:? \\\) the tall pinnacles and cai'ven niches and ligured saints } ^ 1 41 I' H4 OV Tin: (MIS AM> ()FI\ I ,1 '4 inoiii;' tlicin " the l-^ldcst tlic most Cliristiaii Kinu'," ol' the rcM'cdos, witli flic central LTi'oups of tlic cnicilicd Savioiii' lookiiii;' down on tlw tlii'iM* Maries, the .Mau'dalcnc solihinii* «it the loot of His cross; and, aliove it, of Oni' jjady, patroness (►!' the clnircli, l)einu' crowned by the Father in Heaven; while helow were lovely i;'rou))s ol" ani;'els carved in solt i;reystone, remindinL'' one of the Paradise ol' lirother John of Fiesole, the Fra An^'clico. Ininiediately round tin* crncili.v then* were no lii;hts, which lieiLi'htened the elVect, The vast audience sank u])on their knees, ])roniinent a Son ol" the Church," who, when standing — like Saul, tlie son of Kish — was a Jiead and shoulders above his fellows. As he knelt there, v^ the lull blaze of the church lamps, with his media'val-lookiiii;' I'ace bent on one si(h' by his ailment, he looked I'or all the world like th(^ elliny of one of his crusadin*;- ancestors called to lii'e from an alal)aster tomb. All around flashed the ;^'old chain collars and cloth-of-,jhi"''« .1 ' Wmdioi^otrL. *««„l;j^^^(jjp/4M;,v;,.;/|,. , / ?* caravanserais of the United States, built like most Montreal 1)iiildini>'s ol' handsome i^reystone, not wood, and bearing- an uni(iue name I'or its cuisine, solid luxury, and, what is much raiun* than either over tlie water, its achnirable attenchmci'. It was here that tln^ Comte do Paris was received in the banquet hall, beautifully decorated with the bamiers of the ancient foes, come together to Avelcome the crownless heir of tin* loni^ line of kiui^s who had If 8(i OX Tin: CARS AXn OFF. l)('(Mi Eiiii;lan(rs licroditury enomios, on the anni- versary of .Vi^'incourt, where In's ancestor liad lost liis king'dom four centnri(}s and three-quarters ago, and of Bahxchiva, A\'here a generation ago tlie rivals fouii'lit side hv side. The doors were liunuj Avith crimson velvet spangled with silver Henrs-de-lys, and the French flag flcAV ahove the English hehind the lioyal seat, the conquered flag occupying the pride of place elsewhere, while all round the hall went a thick horder of the Canadian flag, broken in four places by clusters of stars and stripes — much more than one usually sees of the Union Jack at American festivities, where it is often the one national flag absent, owing to Irish sensil)ilitics. Few who were present will forget the room as it appeared, when the toasts began, crowded with two or three thousand j)eople in full evening dress, the light silks and diamonds of the ladies contrasting finely against the banner-hung Avails, as the hall rang first wdtli " God save the Queen " from loyal French throats, and then Avitli the applause Avhich greeted the lloyal guest's and the Secretary of State's speeches. The exiled king's speech Avas very pathetic, the first that the head of the House of France had CA^er addressed to the ears of the Ncav France, founded by his ancestors, though for more than a hundred years it had loyally carried in peace and A\'ar the banner of his house's once Avorst enemy and noAV best friend. SAveet to the exile, he said, Avas it to come to a land Avitli a French tongue ; hopeful to MOXTREAL: THE PJUSXIPAL CITY OF CANAhA. S7 a Frenchman to sec that, in a country iinhaniixTcd hy tyrannical testamentary hiws, th(» French race Avas amonj> the most prolilic of mankind ; comforting- to tlic dcscv3ndant of the Cliamjiions of the Church to find the wliole people proud to he Christian and Catholic. Happy were they to he nnder a Qneen who Avas one of the grandest figures of the age, and to Avliom they had reason to pay the proofs of their fidelity. Theirs wns tlie nohlc task of maintaining in the Ncav World the hononr of the Erencli name, and perpetuating its language, its character, and its traditions. As a climax he proposed the healtli of Canada in English. His OAvn health had heen Acry ajipropriately drunk to the old Royalist tune of " Dieu Protege la France par le lloi," as the glasses clashed. The excitement rose to its highest ])itcli AA'lien M. Chapleau, the Canadian Secretary of State, addressing English and French, and English and French Canadians, Avitli magnificent eloquence and earnestness, declared that the French Canadian in nationality was French, in patriotism English. The royal party spent much of their time in the corridor at the " AVindsor " — the most delightful I CA'cr kncAV, 180 feet long hy 30 feet AA^ide, full of comfortahle lounges, and ojiening on one side into a suite of draAving-rooms, and on the other into the huge dining hall. In this corridor a line hand i)layed for a couple of hours after dinner. At dinner one had no less than sixteen different kinds of fish. Tiie offices and the principal station of the 'I ; m HH OX Till-: CARS AM) OFF. i ■ I i I'anadiaii Pacilic llailway are just bcloAv tlio " Windsor," in a ii;rey j^ranitc building, remindini^ one of the great German llatliliauses. Euilt of such handsome stone, with its toAvering primitive romanesque arches, it would he a show place in any THE MAN AT Til 10 WIIEKL—Sni WILLIAM VAN llOKNi:. town in Europe. It is typical of the great railway company which it houses, the ^^ossessor of the longest line in the world; the hond of unity between the; ])r()vinces of the vast Dominion ; the strenuous link of steel between Great Britain and her distant colonies ; tli<' Quecji's hhjh road to the East, along the route to Ik; of to MONTR i: A L: THE PRINCIPAL CITY OF CANADA. S') ^;| Cathay, (hnniiiKMl of hy all the g'r(\it discovorcn's, from Coluiuhus to La Salh?. I'rom Halifax to Vancouvor, oven by the short line, is »3,001 inilcs. One of the most remarkable men in Canada is the Canadian Pacific Railway's President, Sir William Van Ilorne. Not content Avitli controlling the largest railway concern in the world, and having succeeded in inaugurating the introduction of paj)ier-nriche rail- way Avheels, he is one of the leading art collectors of the city, and has mastered such a difficult language as the Japanese. lie keeps pace with all the political and literary and artistic questions of the day. He has, further, no superior amongst amateur thought-readers. There is nothing which tends to keep Canada free from the United States, and united in itself, so much as this magnificent railway system under his guidance. Tht Windsor Hotel and Canadian Pacific E-ailway building face St. Peter's Cathedral, on the opposite side of Dominion Square. Victoria Square, at the end of the principal thoroughfare, is even more imposing, from the number of fine buildings sur- rounding it, though none of them have the individual importance of those in the former square. But I suppose that the tour de force in building of Montreal is the great Victoria Bridge, which weighs eight thousand tons, and for nearlv tAvo miles carries the Grand Trunk Bailway over the mighty St. Lawrence. One of the glories of Montreal, especially in the •^ I •i.'. * \ %s\ 90 ON THE CARS AND OFF. autumn, when the maj)le and sumach and cherry and briar and ^Vmevican oak rival each other in the splendour of their crimson, is Mount lioyal. It forms tlie city park, and is a triumph of preserved Xature and added art. An elevator travels up the face of the mountain, and a fine zigzag high road carries carriaijes or sleiiyhs to the summit for the view over the St. Lawrence, and the backriver, and the Park toboggan slide, in winter. The glades are left undisturbed and poj^ulous with the^ueer little Canadian squirrel, the chipmunk. IIow Montreallers love their mountain ! how it enters into the life of the city ! It is not only their public park, but on its flanks are the two great toboggan slides, besides the Amateur Athletic and the Snowslioers' Club Houses. All the winter through it is crowded with toboggan- ners in their gay blanket suits, and on the great night of the carnival it is from its summit that the torch-bearing snowslioers descend like a fiery serjient to the assault of the Ice Palace. 'i ■! :. ji P if* ■I If m 1 r ^ In ■0 •'f I isrf' =8 < 'J u < ai u '^ p •t JC IS < a: I* ii '4 1 , I' u o u < «5 Si u < J CHAPTER YIII. WIXTEh' SPORTS IN MONTREAL. Ij FEBRUARY is f/a' month for Aviiitor sports in -■- Canada, and Canada in Avintcr is an enchanting- phicc to visit, however dreary it may he to live in. Not that the inhahitants seem to feel it much. The thermometer may ramhle ten, twenty, or thirty degrees heloAV zero, hut it is under a warm sun and a cloudless sky, and the little children are turned out to play in the snoAv, and adults stand ahout the streets chatting or Avatching a procession just as if it were summer. The secret of this is that they take such precautions against cold in their dress, A stroni? man must he very Ens-lish not to wear ruhher and canvas overshoes over his hoots; and he will certainly Avear a large Russian fur-lined coat, coming down to his ankles, and with an enormous fur collar huttoned close to the throat, and turned up over liis ears to meet the fur cap pulled doAvn over his eye- hrows. Huge fur gloves, or, hetter still, fur mittens made on the hoxing-glove principle, with only the thumhs separate, complete the costume. This is his street dress ; for shooting, snowshoeing, or tobogganing he will wear a tuque, or tlsherman's (•1 A I -bi ' ^. 1)2 OX Tin: cAh's ax/) off. W()()ll(Mi ca]), drawn down owr In's cars and cycln'OAVs, a tremendously lliii'k blanket coat coniin*;' down hall'-way to tlie knee, eaui^-lit in at tlu^ uaist for A ciin,n s TOBO(;rjAx. warmth with a knotted scarf, a short pair of blanket breeclies, and two or tliree pairs of thick woollen stocking's, one over the other, terminating in bnck- skin mocassins, ornamented with Indian embroidery. WTXTKR SPORTS /.V MOXTREAL. \y^ Tlicsc costumes avo oxcocMliiiiirly ])ictui'(vs(jU('. rc- mindini"' one ratlu'i* ol' tlic classic (Ircck tunics and k^i^-iiin^'s still used in the little vilhii>'e, once tlio dcmc, of Achavnu'. The material is «ifenerally ol' some brilliant colour, or white striped Avith brilMant colours, and adorned with the paint(Ml ril)l)on badu'es of the snoAvshoe and toboi^gan clubs to Avhich the wearer bclonij,'s. The tuque and scarf arc also clul) l)adi:fes. Very younii,- i^irls AV(nir blanket costumes, Avliieh are comparatively inexpensive ; but as they g'row u]) they are quite alive to the beauty of costly furs, and, since they requirt^ them for the cjreater part of each year, most dauijrhters of Eve contrive to hav(^ them. They, too, have to wear fur caps, but they do not, as a rule, Avear their fur coats anvthinu: like as len^'thv as the men, and, using* mulfs, often wear thinner ijrloves. Canadian ladies seldom wear boots in the Avinter, unless tliev are s-oinu^ to skate. Thev merelv draAV A^ery thick, loose Avoollen stockings over their slippered feet, and thrust them into rubbers. AVIkmi thoA^ come into their own or a friend's house, thev pull off stockings and rubbers. For skating, hoAvever. the fair Canadians are careful to have their ankles tautly laced up. People aa^Iio have skated ever since tlnn' could Avalk, and Avear the strapless skeleton skates, knoAV the value of such a sujjport. But they are very proud of their pretty feet, and think the daintiest kid boots, it* closely laced, quite suiiicient support. They never Avear thick boots in Avinter. H A ,|, >x !' IW 94 (L\ Tin: (Alts AM) OFF. m CliildiTii, Vxkv tluMi' ciders, arc swathed Irom liead to loot, the \\liit(^ Persian lainh I'lir and white bhmketiiiii; beiiii^- very ])opiihir Tor them. AVheii turned out thoy roll about in tlie snow, snowl)all each other a little, dii;' out caves in the snow, and "coast" on toy tohoi?ijjans doAvn sli(l(\s made from the middles ol* the road to the pavement, the snosv often heiiiL*' several I'eet hii;"h in the road, as the paveuKMits are kept clear hy thc^ snow heini;* thrown on to the road. Tlun-e is no Tear ol" tlu^m heiiii;' run over ; all throuu'li Amiu'ica a child is evervhodv's care, and the sleii»'hs, Avhich all have hells, i;o no j^reat i)acc in the streets. Besides, th(^ slei^'hs havci to keej) their trodden track in the middle ol' the road, or their horses would he swallowcul up in the soft snow, and it is in the soft snoAV that the children play. ''1i(! staple winter amnsements which i^o on, carnivcal or no carnival, are slcig-hini;', tol)Oi]^i^anini»', and snowshoeini^. Montreal has a four-in-hand sleiij^hini^ club, which meets every Satnrday afternoon to drive round " the mountain," as the Mount lloval — climbed and named by Jacques Cartier more than three hundred and lit'ty years a^o — is proudly stvled bv its inhabitants, tliouGrh it is not much liii-'her than Shooter's llill. Thenu^et is in Dominion 8(piare, which is bounded on one side by the vast but sloAvlv ijjrowins': New AVorld St. Peter's, and on th(^ other bv the Canadian Paeiiic Pailwav Station and the Windsor Hotel. This is where the Ice Palac(^ stands in carnival years. ^Tontreallers are great on ) 'it ^ IXTEli Sl'nirrs JX MOSTRIIAL. IC(5 Ion liiKi horses, aiid al Ji i^-ood meet our sees dozens ol" rour-liors<», unicorn, vundeni, tuiidein, aiid jjair-horsc sleii^'lis, cacli rivalliiii;' tlic otlicu' in tho beauty ol' its horses and i'urs, and each Avith its ))retty i;irl hesi(h« its stalwart driver. There is a coniinon luinianity in the Enu'lisliman ol' tiv(^ contin(>nts. AVhetlier he h(^ amid tlic siiows ol' Canachi, the parclied ])a(ldocl•'? i 1^ w ox Tin: CAJiS AXD OFF. the straM!;('i* it is lar more atti'uctivc, loi*, instcjul of ])('iii<;' one plain rusii down, it is iip and dow n liixc a s\vitcld)ack milway, and has one I'amous jum)). J'or rour-in-liand slcin'licrs it has the; riirthcr attraction ol' a narrow arch under tlic startini^phitrorni, thronnh which it is only just ])ossiblo to <;'ui(lc a team. Vonr Canadian is a true clii[) ol' the old ])lock in at least oiu; respect. The most typical t'oxhunter could not liave a i;reater relisli i'or the chance ol' ])realvini^' his neck. The tohoi^i^aniui; place, /"ir ('.cci'l.L'iici', is tlu' rrozen-over jMontniorency Falls (hii^her than Niagara), near Quel)ec. And he has a crazes I'or sliootini»' rapids, Avliethcr it h(i steamini^ oven* the luiiifhty rapids of tlie St. Lawrence, or takini^ liis l)irch-hark over the incidental ra2)ids in a sporting' cruise. The coup (/'(ell at tiio Montreal Park Slide is ravishinu,'. Imai?ino a ril'tcd hill. The broad IioUoav between its breasts is a sun-lit basin of virj^'in snow, lipped Avith snoAV-avabcsq "A trees, and broken only by the loni»' lines of green ice, down Avliich the t<>boL?i4'aners shoot at the rate of a mile a minute, aui! the slender, dark path uji Avhich they wearily drai;' back their tobog-g-an. So much I'or the in- animate. Scattcu'ed rouiul the slides, standing' about or climbii^g up to the starting platform, are g'rouj)s of laughing tobogganers, male and female, mocassined, and in i)icturesque blanket suits of all the colours of the rainbow. In cold like this it keeps one A\arm to laugh. Every minute there is a swish, and something i \\'/\ri:ii sp(Ui'Ts /.v }inyrin:.\r.. '.17 [(', Lv )S (I, of to tlics ])!i.sl like a cannon sliot, tlic downliill impctns carrying; it nj) any sjnallcr Iiill (on the principle of watci'woi'ivs). Tlic monicnt one toboi^'Lcan is sate oil' tlic slide another is started. They have to wait so loni? in cas(» ol' accident. To any one npsc^t on the track another tol)Oi;i;an foUowinii: wonld In; as terrihlo as a locomotive. 'J'ol)()i^L;;ans and t()hoij;'L!:aners may hoth he inclnded in th(5 animate; side'. A Chinaman was once*, by an unnsnally con- descendiiii;' Caucasian, ollered a slide on a tol)()!^g"in. John put his fini;er to tin; side ol' his nose : " All \V(!lly i^'ood for an Amelican. Mc; no wanteo swish ! swish ! Avalkcc hack a mil(\" Wliih' wc were at Montreal an old hulv I'rom California showcul the sui)eriority of the Caucasian. She was hetween s(;venty and eig'hty, and had come three thousand mihis to have one tohou;ij;an h(?l'ore she died. Tlie " swish ! swish ! walkee hack a mile " is not so severe on tlie Park Slide as at the Tuque Blene ; for the decline being* <^entler, and with a hill at each end, there is a return slide for part of the way. Both tliese famous clubs, of course, have " made " slides — slii)pery green ice instead of mere snow. They are made by pouring water over inclined wt.oden frameworks, about tAVo feet wide. In the country, people " coast " over any incline of frozen snow ; hut, of course, the velocity and excitement is far greater on ice, ajiart from the fact tliat Xatur(;'s handiwork is held in very poor esteem on the other i wv 98 OX THE CARS AND OFF. side, when it can l)c replaced by Art's. The Canadian, as he 2^rei*ers to tol)oggan on made slides, invariably skates on made rinks. And now I suiopcse I ouii^ht, for the benefit of the uninitiated, to describe a " tobo£f":an." A toboggan is a light sledge made of wood, five or six feet long, very much in the shape of the blade of a Dutch skate, except that it is about twenty inches wide. On this perch one, two, or three people, the front ones squatting, the back one trailing his feet to steer the toboggan in case it gives signs of leaving the track. If there is only one, he lies prone on the toboggan. The start is very steep, not far short of perpendicular, so as to give the proper impetus. But it is time to leave tobogganing. The sleigh is, of course, an open one — nearly all the sleighs in Montreal are. One even goes to a ball, very often, in an open sleigh. The " carter," or driver, will be wearing a buffalo coat with the matted hairy side outAvards. There are still a fair number of buffalo skins in stores, though the animal is practically extinct. But buffalo coats are getting dear now; even the carters, who are not particular about the look of the skins, have to give three or four pounds for a coat, and Canada is beginning to look to parched Australia for cheap, warm furs ('possum) for her poor. The carter's patrons, of course, are all wearing their furs, and each sleigh — even thos(^ which vou can hire at a shillini? for a twenty WINTER SPORTS IN MONTREAL. 90 minutes' drive — is well supplied with handsome I'ur " robes," or, as Ave should call them, rui^s. It is most exhilarating to dash along, warmly wrapped up, through the crisp air in a well-appointed sleig'li. The bells jingle merrily, and it is as smooth as skating unless you suddenly stumble into a co whole, or the horse slips off the track of hard, beaten snow into the soft snowdrift on either side. If he does, lic^ Avill have a very good chance of burying himself, for they are often many feet deep. I rcnicml)er, as we passed one once on tlic Lower Lachine E,oad, the toll-keeper coming out with a rod and measuring it seventeen feet eight inches deep. The road had re- quired to be cut through this one. Such accidents often happen when two sleighs have to pass, for the hard track is seldom wide enough for two, and all they can do is to creep past each other as gingerly as possible. At Montreal they have sleigh trotting races on the frozen river, where there is a magnificent expanse of good snow. It is very odd to see races being held, and caravans of country carts passing on the ice in perfect spfety, while at no great distance the river is open from some fierce rapid. Hockey on the ice, like ordinary skating, is nearly ahvays in covered rinks. Canadians play it with p.mazing elegance. j^.Iontrcallers have very little ice yachting, a par- ticularly dangerous amusement, because it is almost impossible to stop the yacht, on its immense skates, in a high wind. Toronto, from its position on Lake !:■),■ i 'I I (10 <).\ Tin: cMis AM) orr ()nt;ii'i(>, is the Iu';mI(|Ii;h'1(M's ol' tliis ]Kislini(*. \U\l lor siunvsluMMiii;-, the otluM* i»r('iit wintci' ainus(Mn(>nt, IK) t'itv ('xcols ^lontnvil. The jnuMiiiiM' stiowsliocini;' cliil) of all Canada, is llic St. (Jcori^'c's— the lOni^'Iisli- Caiiadiaiis' club — at Montreal. It has a-lliliations far and wide. WIkmi wo wore at Montreal a. de- l)iitation came all the wav iVom the AVinnipei;' St. (ieori;'(^'s Club, lil'teiMi hundrcMl miles away. They have a ma^'nilicent cinh lionse on the sich^ ol' thi^ mountain, at which they have rei;'ular club n lights, with sini^iui;', even daiicini»', and "• bonncini;-." Bouncinjj'' is a ty])ical Canadian institution. Six- stalwart snoAVslioers lift vou into the air. You lie as stilV and still as you can on thiMr hands, and at a. ii'iven sii>'nal you are tossed five or six I'eet up into the air once, iwice, thric(\ It is a most delii;-htrul sensation : you <)irrs /.v mosi'ui'.m.. ini is rjillh" imi;r}ic(^rul, bill. wnlkiiiL;' on llinn swiI'IIn V(.|.y M.|.j^.(.|'ii|, 'riicy i;I;mic,c over llic snow as lii;lill\ as ji wild juiiiiiM.I, or rnllicr, a i;'oo(l deal luon^ lii;lilly, I'or the Iniliaiis usi^ liicm to run down luinvs and (leer l)()L;i;('d in tiic dcc^p snowdril'ls. 'V\\{\ snow- shoes lliemsidves axe stout IVaines slia.])e(l like narrow kites, alioiit. Iiv(^ I'ei^t. Ion*;' and a, loot broad ; over these IVaines is strict cited a (dose nettiiiL"- made ol' i;Mit ; on tliinn you can travcM'si^ tlu^ softest and dee|)est snow. I n concliidini;-, I r(Md that. F oii^ht to sa.y sonKdhinL"' about MontrcN'il houses. TIk^v ar(^ mostly built ol' Hr(\vstone, whicli is I'oiind in iin^xhaiistibh^ (|iiantities on the litth^ island on which t!i(^ city stands. In winter thev all have doubles windows, tiie outer oim^ ol' which is hardly (^v(M' opeiKMl, and are lusated with hot air to an ext(Mit which paralyscvs the IJi'iton — 7<>' i'ahrenheit is a trille. '\\) make up I'or this, thoiiuh th(^ tern (U'atiire outside may b(^ 2.''r below /,(M'o, ices, or as tli(\y are called ovi^r tiicM-e, ice- cnvims, are an indis[)(Misal)l(; at (^v(M'y hotel dinner. Milk' is constantly sold in Trozcin lumps, especially at iii(^ I'linnv old French markcit by Notn; Dame de lionsecours, wh(n"(^ the hal)itaiits still coim;, somc^ of thiMiij in the old Norman dr<^ss. Cesrtainly one (l()(;s W(dl to form his impnissions of Montreal diirini^' tli(^ static of si(;<^(; ])y Kin*^- Winter. When oiH^ cannot step out (;v(mi to j)ost a hotter without wraj)pin!^' nj) in iuvivy I'lii's ; when one is hemmed in, even in tin; citv, bv a blizzard or a •4« l(l-_' ON Tin-: CARS AND OFF. snoAvdrift, one can form a hotter idea, than in the ij^lorious Canadian summer, of what those men (Midured — tliose knightly Frenchmen who founded Canada, justified noAV of tlieir enemies and douhtinc^ friends. The fair city of Montreal almost covers tli(5 island, to Avhich Maisonneuve, in jieril of his life, went to found the original Ville Marie i'or th(i Sulpician En fliers. And the iiiv'tv Canadian Pacific Eailroad, tln^ largest on le earth's surface, noAV " The Queen's Highway to the East," crosses the rapids of thes St. LaAvrence, at Lachin(\ named in mockery of La Salle's ucaa' route to China. That great man was conA'inced, that if commerce could surmount tliese rai)ids, this Avould he the shortest Avay to tln^ VA Dorado of the ^[idd](^ Aires. A: F^T' ^ o: < u u H H K H Si O ;z; {fi w 1*. I M wl an of El Ci an br le( fo: de H sp M th bi 111 ClIAPTEll IX. .1 MONT HEAL CARXIVAL. y SUPPOSE I ought to describe a :\[ontreal -*- Carnival, since my first impressions of Ville Marie de Montreal were in Carnival time. TIk^ whole city was a mass of banners; conspicuous among them, a veritable relic of the past, a memento of Canada's old warlike days, the Eoyal standard of England, which floated from the flagstatt' on the Citadel of Quebec as far l)ack as 1706, when his Excellency Guy Carleton was Lieutenant-Governor and Commander of llis Majesty's forces. The great banner, twenty-one feet in length and thirteen in breadth, has the fleur-dc-lys as well as the English leojjards and the Scottish lion and the Irish harp, for in those days the kings of England were still designated kings of Prance as heirs of the body of Henry the Pifth. We had rather expected to be cheated of tne spectacle of the Ice Palace, which is the feature of a Montreal Carnival ; the weather had been so mild that it had collapsed almost as soon as it Avas built ; but a sudden sharp frost of 20 beloAV zero setting in, there it stood ; a fresh one had risen — one can 103 1 1 \ . Ij ■ , i ! t \ si- ■ ill li, ' i • 1 II |,i \rt. ]}■' ' if '. }\ \ / V '■, U' ■MiMM 112 ox Till-: CARS AND OFF Tlio i)r()COssi()ii was a vory lowj; one, Avitli dozens ol' (nnl)lomatic cars, some oF them very costlv and clahoratc. Tlio national oloment Avas ca])itally l)i'oni>'ht out. It coni2)aro(l voiy favourably witli the Koman carnival processions; indeed, there can liavdly 1)(^ any coinpai'ison Avitli the attenuated elVorts of the city of carnivals in late years. The lleidell)er<;' ])vo- cession at tin? quinc(;ntenary ol' its university Avas undoubtedly liner, OAvint^ to the rich, historical materials laid under contribution and the careful studies of the pciriod by German pro lessors. The Jubilee ])rocessi()n in Eni^land AAas also undoubtedly liner, OAvinijf to the j)rcsencc of the maufuiiicent House- hold troops, sucli as the Life Guards, and the large number of royal and distinjj^uished i)ersoiiai^es enpjai^cd in the procession. Eut the Queen of Italy's birth- day procession at Florence in 18S(>, and the In- (lepeiulence Day ])rocession at Athens in 1887, Avere no more com])arable than a lioman carnival jiro- cession Avitli tlu; carnival drive of the frozen North of America. ^ K 'il 'A ^ ;^ < pq Q A - O ,1 > ; i'i w 0Q ►J H ^^ iJ < ^ U tfj >-« a ■ 3 ; M iv UJ I'' <; k: _) f ':' i iV I bio yoi tio] Qu lia( Ca] Qu at 1 niu yea Coi bloi of 1 hal mii] alsc suic jus1 six Gib w .1 ClIAPTEll X. NELSON IN CANADA, AND A COLONIAL MARATHON. \ WELL-NIGH forgotten romance Avas recalled ■^^ when the telegram announced the attempt to blow up the Nelson Memorial in Montreal hy the young Mercier, son of the ex-premier, whose corrup- tions drove himself and the Liberals of the province of Quebec from power. There Avas a time wheii Nelson had serious intentions of marrying and settling in Canada. This was when his sloop-of-war lay at Quebec in the autumn of 1782. His high soul chafed at the limited outlook of the British Navy. People must still have been talking at Quebec about the year bcfore's surrender at YorktoAvn, Avliere Lord Cornwallis was compelled to capitulate by the blockade of the Comte de Grasse's fleet. If this bov of three-and-tAventy had been there Avitli a fleet only lialf the force of the Prench, the history of .Vmerica might have been colonial history still, as it might also if the great Clive had not been goaded into suicide by the Little England party of that day, just tAvo years before the Avar began. Ireland liad, six months before, achieved its indepcMideiice ; and Gibraltar, Avliicli had been tliree years besieged, Avas 118 " ^ I'll A i!L, vl 114 Oy THE CARS AND OFB\ rcj^ardcd as certain to fall to France or Spain. And still the navv was bcinsf choked with red tape. With such a hopelessly black horizon a man like Nelson may he excused for thinking of settlini^ in a iieAV Avorld, as the Dutch in their darkest hour had thought of abandoning Holland for Batavia. Of course there was a lady in the case. The captain of His Majesty's sloop Albemarle at Quebec was as soft-hearted, where a beautiful Avoman was concerned, a;S His Majesty's admiral at Naples. It came out the day the Alhemarle was under orders to sail for the West Indies. Nelson had said good-bye to all his friends the day before, and joined his ship, which was lying in the bay made l)y the Isle of Orleans. On the morning of sailing, Alexander Davison, or another of his Quebec friends, Matthew Lymburner, Avas walking in the Lower ToAvn, Avhen, to his sur- prise, he saAA^ Nelson coming back in his barge. Upon inquiring the cause of his reappearance, Nelson took his arm toAA'ards the toAAii, and told him he found it utterly impossible to leave Quebec Avithout again seeing the AA'oman Avhose society contributed so much to his happiness, and then and there offering her his hand. " If you do," said his friend, " your utter ruin must inevitably folloAv." " Then let it folloAv," cried Nelson, " for I am resolved to do it." " And I," replied Davison (or Lymburner), "am resolved you shall not." Nelson, hoAvever, on this occasion A\as less resolved tlian his friend, and suffered himself ■:i (;• NELSny IX CANADA. 116 to be led l)ack to his boat. This is Southev's account, corrected by Le ]Moiiie, There has l)een a i;'rcat deal of discussion as to the identity of tlie lady. It used to be said that she was the Miss Simpson who Avas barmaid at the Chien d'Or ; but evidence, says Mr. Le Moine, in one of his admirabki books on Quebec, points to her l)eini>' Miss Mary Simpson, " quite tlie belle of Quebec," daui^hter of Saunders (Sandy) Simpson, "Wolfe's Provost Marshal at Louisbourg, Quebec, and Montreal ; thouii:li som(» say it was her cousin, the daughter of Captain Miles Prentice, a wealthy Quebecer, who liycd in a huge sort of chateau near the old St. Louis Gate ; or a Miss IVoolsey. ^liss Simpson herself, who married another Englishman, Colonel Matthews, Governor of Chelsea Hospital, died Avitli the name of Xelson on her lij)s. There is a curious h^ter from one of " the oldest inhabitants " of Quebec, given by Mr. Le Moine : — " Dear Sir,— " 1 have much pleasure in acceding to your recjuest to send you a note of some c'rcumstances connected with the city in which seventy-one years of my life — now verging towards eighty — have been spent. I am familiar with no part of Nelson's career except what I hea^d from my mother's own lips respecting this brave man. .My mother was gifted with a remarkable memory, and recollected well having herself seen Captain Nelson, when, in 1782, he commanded, at Quebec the sloop-of-war Albemarle, ' He was erect, stern of aspect, and wore, as was then customary, the queue or pigtail,' she often repeated. Her idea of the Quebec young lady, to whom he had taken such a violent fancy, was that h.^r i\i \ I I \ > I 1 !,'! •i !■■! 116 ON THE CARS AND OFF. hi' name was Woolsev, an aunt, or elder sister perha]is, of the late John W. Woolsey, President for some years of the (Quebec Hank, who died in 1852 at a very advanced age. According to her, it was a INIr. Davison who prevented the imprudent marriage contemplated. " As to the doings of the pressgangs in the lower town and suburlis, I can speak from what 1 saw more than once. Im- pressing seamen lasted at (Quebec from 1807 until after the battle of Waterloo. The terror these eafaring gentlemen created was great. I remember a fine y^ung fellow, who refused to surrender, being shot through tn^ back with a holster pistol, and dying of the wound. This was in 1807. I can name the following as being seized by pressgangs. . . . Soon ruses were resorted to by the gay fellows who wandered after nightfall, in quest of amusexnent, in the highways and byways. His jNIajesty's soldiers were, of course, exempt from being impressed into the naval service, so that our young city youths would either liorrow coats, or get some made similar to the soldiers, and elude the pressgang. These ruses were, however, soon stopped ; the pressgang having secured the services of two city constaljles, Knsa and , who could spot <3very city youth, and point out the counterfeits. " R. Urquhaht. " Quebec, '^ AuffiiMt 1st, 1870." Tlio other most oxcitini^ experience which Nelson had Avhile he was stationed at Que1)ec was his cliase l)y three French ships of the line and the Iris fi'ii^ate, as lie Avas cruisini? off Boston. Thev all outsailed him, hut he shook off' the line-of-battle sliips l)y running in amonj;^ the shoals of the St. George's Bank, and then tacked to light the frigate. But when the Iris saw him lay hack his jnaintopsail to the mast, she, too, tacked, and made tlie hest haste she coukl to rejoin hei consorts. NELSON IN CANADA. 117 The Nelson moiiumoiit ^Ir. Morcicu* and liis follow- conspimtoi's Avisliod to destroy, not because of Ivis moral railini^s, as they allei'-ed — t'(nv Ereneli Canadians are in a i)osition to throw stones on the scon^ of perfection — l)ut l)ecause Nelson represents the triumph of l^]nf^land over Prance in the lon<^' Napoleonic war. The statue, Avhich stands o.t a circular column about fifty feet lii"'h, risinijj out of a base about ten feet liii^li, adorned with panels cnn- blematic of the Battle of the Nile, might be re-erected in a more appropriate place than Jacques Cartic?r Square, where, being in the French part of the toA>n, it may cause offence to Chauvinist French peoj^le. In Victoria Square, for instance, it would be siu'- rounded by the palatial business prem^'ses of the English and Scotch, whose enterprise has made Montreal one of the greatest railway and shipping toAvns in the Avorld. It was by the British merchants of Montreal that the monument was first put up in 1808. It must not be supposed from what I have written that t\u) French Canadians desire the amalgamation of Canada with the United States. In no part of Canada Avould it meet Avith a more strenuous opposition than in the province of Quebec. The Canuck can see for himself how much better oft' he is than the French Catholics who sAvarm in Maine and Ver- mont ; and he does not forget how gloriously his forefathers fought, at Chateauguay and elsewhere, against the United States in the Avar of 1812. October 26th, 1893, Avas the eighti(^th annivei'sary !' i 11« o.v Tin: CARS axd off. of \ho (lay of riiatr!uii:;nay, tho Canadian ^Farutlion ; not (luitc like tli' ininir)rtal AtluMiian lli^lit in I)oint oF numlx'i's — al)(>ut five tlionsand iivc hundred Americans and less than three hundred Canadians heiiii^' actually eni^'aii^ed — hut tlu^ Marathon of Colonial hislorv, h^eause it saved Canada aiijainst a similar disparity of odds. Had llamjiton hcon victorious, th( I'o was nothinij^ to stop his advance on ]Montreal, ill -garrisoned and unprepared; and Avitli ]Montreal fallen. CanPv.Ia would have had lier hack hrokcn, her u])per and lowci' forcrs cut oft' from each other. The Major ]\tcKinleys and General Porters of that dav coveted the Nahoth's vinevard across the St. Liiwr(.jice, and thought that Avhilc England Avas maintaining, almost single-handed, the struggle against Napoleon, was a good time to jump upon her hack and strip her of her ])ossessions. President Madison shared or yielded to their opinions, not remembering how the S»vitzersmet Charh's the Bold, and Leoj)old of Austria, or foreseeing his own ca2)ital in iiames. The Avar Avas in vain. It Avas declared to abrogate the right of search, and concluded Avithout obtaininj:^ its abrogation. The host Americans protested against its declaration as they deprecate commercial hostili- ties noAV. In 1813 General Wilkinson AA'as commissioned to capture Montreal in the hope that its capture Avould lead to the fall of Canada, as had the ca2)ture of Quebec from the French in 1750. lie and General NKLSO.W FN CA.VADA. 11 '.I Hampton wore coiiccMitratini^ on Monti'cal by (HIVoiuMit lines of march, \v\um on tliat autumn nioniiiii^ ol' Octobor 2Gth, 1S13, tht^ army ol' tho latter tried to force the lines lu^ld by Do Salaberry witli his few liundred Voltii^(;urs and Sedentary Militia — tlu; last defence between them and their prey — with siicii disastrous results. The sequel is well known. Kvery true Canadian should have pictured in his lieart the romantic figure of the knightly 1)(^ 8alal)erry, almost by his single exertions defeating the over- whelming numbcH's of the alien ; the touching spectacle of Captain Longtin and his handful of Beauharnais militia rising from their knees, fortified by prayer, and his memorable saying " that now they had fulfilled their duty to their God they would fulfil that to their king " ; De Salaberry's self- depreciatory letter to his father, " I have won a victory on a wooden horse " ; and the bugling that routed an army, lie and his men had actually won it barefoot. As time goes on people may forget the individual exj)loits of his officers — of Daly, with but seventy men, hurling himself into the heart of the foe; of Fergusson and the Duchesnays ; and of the faithful Indians ; but in every loyal Canadian's heart De Salaberry's bugles will go on sounding to tlu; end of time, waking such echoes as thev woke in tlie heart of the Canadian poet Lighthall, (hUivering the inaugural lecture l)efore the Society of Chateauguay, when he concluded his address with : " The meaning 1 1 ii t 12U ON TJ/E CAliS Ai\U OFK of it all is tliis — tiiat, j^nvcii a cause, and tlic dL'Tmicc of our iiomcs ai^aiiist wanton au^i»:i'('ssion, wo can dare odds tiiat would otherwise seem hopeless; that it is, in th(5 future, as in the past, tlu; s])irits of men, and not their material resources, which count for success; that wc; need only hc^ hrave and just and ready to die, and our country can never he conquered ; and that we shall always he a])le to preserv(; ourselves free in our own course of develop- ment towards our own idea of a nation." ■i! r-^ tiT. ANNE'S, P.l,).: CTIAPTKR XT. Tilt: CANADIAN HOME OF THOMAS MOORE. A MONG the many delight I'ul excursions witliin -^-^ easy reach of Montreal hy the Canadian Pacific Railway are St. Anne's and Lachine, classical for their memories ol' Tom Moore, and the latter ol' La Salle also. We took the train out to St. Anne's one Octoher mornini? Gllitterinu: Avith sun and tlu* autumn gales, and with the frost still in the air which had heen crimsoning the woods. We asked the way to the poet's house. It was at St. Anne's that Moore was living when he wrote " Row, hrothers, row," and his other Canadian poems. Nohody in the station seemed to know ; hut our one saloon fellow-passenger, a very fine-looking, square-shouldered old gentleman, in a picturesque knickerhocker suit, said, " It will he much morc^ Avorth your while to come and see the old French fort in my garden." V/e recognised in the florid, clean-shaven face, set off hy splendid white hair, that Senator Ahhott who afterwards liecame Sir John, and Premier of the Dominion, and who died a vear or two hack. He was not going direct, hut he directed us the way, and a %Y 121 122 ON Till-: CARS AND OFF. very muddy way it Avas, in sj)itc oi' the sharp frost the night hefore. It took us so long that we found him in his home when Ave got tliere — a pleasant matting- wainscotted summer home, of no great size, standing in the midst of extensive and rather elaborately jilanted grounds. He took us at once to the old mill above the house, in which twelve men and thirteen women were burnt two hundred and five years ago, as we learn from the Jesuit archives. The mill is loopholed, for obvious reasons when one has seen the fort below — a mere trading station in the district of the Iroquois incursions. Then we went down to the little trade fort by the grey lake shore, looking on a waste of woody isles and bays and capes in long procession — a charming contrast to the windy brown waters and the groy beach. The idea of the fort is clearly distinguishable, the house for storing the pelts, the high coj)ed wall, and enfilading towers. The interior was gay Avith sumachs Avearing their autumn tints, the exterior with a brilliant Virginia creeper. Erom the front of the fort to the lake a pretty stairAvay led doAvn, by Avliich Ave descended. There are many of these little fur-trading forts by the side of the OttaAva and St. LaAvrence, none more interesting or famo:^s than Fort Ilemy, the first seigniory of the great La Salle, situated at Lachine, to be described later. Loath are Ave to leave this picturesque bit ol' old France ; but Ave have come to see Moore's house, so must hurry back beside the great river, Avith its ST. ANNES, P.Q. Vl'A ])citclics of rapids — vcritahlc breakers to-day in the Octol)er gales — and the farther hank gloAving' with the tirst lire of the maples — a forest fire of maples, all reds and yellows and greens. A walk brings iis to St. Anne's. St. Anne's, P.Q., is a queer little French town at the extreme end of the Island of ^Montreal where the OttaAva divides. There are hardly Jiny En2,disli in the i)lac<', except well-to-do Montreallers, who have siimnKH' homes here. A quiet country inn or two, a feAV queer country shops, some boat-houses, and tlie aforesaid villas constitute St. .Vnne's, Avith a Roman Catliolic Church, probably a successor to the one Avhicli rang " tlios" evening chimes " to Tom ^loore. 1^; I ;.' i.' \ M J 1 , i .)'■; ? I"! ). 124 ON THE CARS AND OFF. It is difficult to refrain from smiling at th(3 shops. Mile. Gautier, modiste, must find it so hard to oe modish in such a tenement and locality. JNIore in his element, probably, is the owner of the most remarkable sign I ever saw — a piebald lamb of the pattern usually associated with John the Baptist, but minus its flag, with its fore feet buttoned into a pair of ladies' boots, and its hind feet thrust into a pair of top-boots. " A bootmaker," you Avill say. Not at all. On one side of the shop are exposed gigantic Turks'-head pumpkins, and on the other straw hats done with till next summer. Who cares ? We step into the best inn of the place, kept hy a Frenchman with the historical-sounding name of Godfroid Charlevoix, where we have an excellent stew, beautiful country butter, biscuits, crab-apple conserve, and blackberry preserves — all for twenty cents each and the exercise of my remarkably poor French. " Does Monsieur, the innkeeper, know the; house wiiere Thomas Moore, the English poet, lived nearly a hundred years since ? " He shakes his liead gravely ; he does not think that he is living here any longer. A friend, also French, thinks that it must be the big house at the end of the village — probably because he has caught the word "■ Emjlisli " and associates it with wealth. We trudge there, but it does not match in any w^ay wdth the house; tradition assigns to the poet, as depicted in the Dominion Illustrated, " Journal English of Montreal " two weeks since. So we 2:0 off to the station-master ST. ANNE'S, P.Q. of the Grand Trunk, Avlio fortunately knows the house of the tradition quite well, and directs us a few doors from the foot of the Grand Trunk Bridj^e. There is one thini? in favour of the tradition. The house is certainly old enough, looks as if it had hardly heen inhabited since the poet's time, and had I f 3^^i^x, begun to fall to pieces while he Avas actually tenant. It is the ordinary old-fashioned house of Prench Canada — built in this instance of stone, with the front door under a narrow verandah raised a l'eA\' stops from the ground, and a high-pitched roof, whicli lias three dormer windows to light the upper story. The house has — as one can easily fancy, a com- mendation in Moore's eyes — a line cellar half under- 12(5 ON THE CARS AND OFF. jj^round, the whole longtli and l)rcadtli of th(; biiild- \n^, and a woodon porcli tumblini^ into pictiiresquo decay, but covered by a luxuriant vine relieved of its grapes l)y the neighbours. Inside there is the abomination of desolation, the unwholesome damp cliill of a house long abandoned, the musty smell, plaster falling from walls and ceilings streAved about the floor, Avindows naked of glass, a chimney Avith a hole shoAving daylight through, a AAall AA'ith a breach rudely patched, doors boarded up, shutters closed for many a year, and — saddest of all — rooms divided up into little cabins by rudely papered hoardings, shoAving that, after sheltering a poet lik(^ Moore, the house had indeed fallen to Ioav estate and beer cut up into the most meagre of tenements. There are some queer old locks on the doors — one of them a shackle. There are other quaint old houses round. I am sure this one has a romance, Avith its balustraded roof and balcony projecting on rafters over a stone foundation, like the old Greek houses of Constantinople ; its yelloAV, red, and green jah 'es, and its outside staircase. It stands in a ty)i 1 French-Canadian garden, Avith its few maize CO , its little roAv of sunfloAA^ers, its avcII Avith a huge iron caldron AAorking on a rusty chain, its thre(^ ragged elms and skinny maples, and its pumpkins on tlie verandah of a little Avood-and- plaster liouse. It AA'as hailing a minute ago, and now the sun is lighting up the shiny autumn Avoods on the farther shore that slo]i(» aAvay into dark distance, ST. ANNl-rs, P.Q. 127 proloncfod hy islets. I sit down on the old stone sled^e-mud-roUer to " look lazy " at the brown waters lapping on the stones, and meditate on ^Moorc; in Canada, Camoens at Macao. From St. Anne's to Lachine is not such a v(n'v far cry, and it was at Lachine that the p^reat La Salle had his first seis-niorv. This Norman founder o1' Illinois, who reared on the precipices of Fort St. Louis the white flac: and his srreat white cross nearly a couple of centuries hciore the heginninijfs of the Metropolis of the West, made his beginnin<^s at his little seigniory round Fort Remy, on tlie Island of Montreal. The son of a wealthy and powerful burgher of Ilouen, he had b(*en brought up to become a Jesuit. La Salle was well fitted for an ecclesiastic, a prince; of the Church, a Richelieu, but not for a Jesuit, where effacement of self is the keystone of the order. To be one step, one stone in the mighty pyramid of the Ci'der of Jesus was not for him, a man of mighty individuality like Columbus or Cromwell, and accord- ingly his piety, asceticism, vast aml)ition, and super- human courage were lost to the Church and gained to the State. So says Parkman. He was given a sum of money, bringing in only three or four hundred francs a vear, and sailed for Canada to make his fortune in Drvdcni's i\.nnus Mirabilis, IGOO. He found his way to Montreal, where the Sulpician Fathers wc^re gallantly main- taining a colony in the teeth of the savage; Iroquois. i '; ' ' ¥i 128 OM THE CARS ASD OFF. The Eivc Nations had just received a severe chastise- n\ent from Courcelles, the Governor; hut, for all tluj.t, no one could venture outside the walls without peril of his life. The Fathers were endeavouring to estahlish a chain of alarm posts, something after the manner of the Roman settlements of veterans in imperfectly con- quered countries, and were disposed to he very liheral. La Salle was the man for such a i^urpose had the priests understood him, which they evidently did not, for some of them suspected him of levity, the last foible with Avhicli he could he charged — the man above all others consumed with earnestness. " But," .says Parkman, " Queylus, Superior of the Seminary, made him a generous offer, and he accepted it. This was the gratuitous grant of a large tract of land at the place now called Lachine, above the great rapids of the same name, and eight or nine miles from Montreal. On the one hand it was greatly exposed to attack, and on the otiier it was favourably situ- ated for the fur trade. La Salle and his successors became its feudal proprietors on the sole condition of delivering to the Seminary, on every change of ownershiji, a medal of fine silver weighing one mark." " Lightly Avon, liglitly sp(Mit," the saying goes. La Salle laid out a township and leased it to his tenants on very " nominal " terms. Each settler received a tliird of an acre inside the palisade of the toAVii .9r. ANXE\^, P.n. l-Ji) for a fartliin'e of Cani]^h- nawaga. It is said that, if the steamer is al)an(loned to tlie current, it is impossible for her to srrike, the scour being' so strong ; certainly, her engines arci slowed; she reels about like a drunken man; riglit and i"''^* 182 O.V THE CARS AND OFF. left yon sec fiercer i?i'(HMi l)i'(\'ik(M's witli liissiiii;' \vliit(^ fillots tliir}ittMiini»' to swam]) you ut every iniiiut(\ I*]v(M'y second thud of these waves upon tlie sides convinces you that the sliij) is aij^round and about to l)e dashed to pieces. There seems absolutely no chance of i^ettinj? safelv out of the boilincf wat(n*s, which oft(Mi rush toi»:ether like a couph* of fountains. Yet, after a few trips, you know tliat the Ca))tain is (juite justified in sittinijjin liis easy chair and smokinu; THE CANADIAN PACIl'IC RAILWAY RKIDGE. a ciii^arette all through it. It is admirably described in brief by Dawson : "As the steamer enters tlu^ loni^ and turbulent rapids of the Sault St. Louis, tlu' river is contracted and obstructed by islands ; and trap dykes, crossinj^ the softer limestone rocks, mak(^ l)y their uneven wear, a very broken bottom. The fall of the river is also considerable, and tlu^ channel tortuous, all which circumstances combined cause this rapid to be more feared than any of tlui others. f ♦•^ 1 i I >-i ST. AXXi:S, I'.fJ. VXi " As the stcniiKM' (MittM's tlu' ra|)i(ls the cn^iiics arc slowed, retaiiiiiii;' a siiUlcicnt speed to i;'ive stecrai^e way, and, riisliiii«;' aloiiL*- with the ad(h*d speed ol* the switt cui'i'eiit, the hoat soon l)eL''ijis to hihour anions; the breakers and eddies. 'I'lie ])asseni;'ers i;n)w ex- cited at the ai)pai'ently narrow esca})es, as the steamer seems almost to touch rock after rock, and (li[)s her prow into tlie eddies, wliih' tlie turl)uh'nt waters tliroAV tlieir spray over the deck." Oik; cannot more littini»'ly take leave of liachiiu; than j^azini^ at the i^reat steel Canadian racific Rail- way Bridi^e which leaps the terrible rapids. It is on the Cantilever system, and built entirely witliout balustradini^. There is nothini'', as ^Irs. A[alai)rop Avould say, to prevent the train slippinir oil' as it makes its leap, in spans of four liundred and eii>lit feet each, at a i^iddy height. But in r(»ality, of course, if a train left the; rails no balustrade could keep it from tearinij^ into the river ; and the 1)rid<:f(; is, as a matter of fact, much safer than an ordinary bridi^e, because, being l)uilt in skeleton only, it olfers so little mark for the wind. Throughout tlieir gii^antic line the Canadian Pacific llailwav have acted up to the latest scientific ideas. I i H- i'. CllArTKll XII. .1 /7>7//.\V/ liOX IX T'li: CANADIAN BACKWOODS. A ^[ONTKEAL i^ontloman asked us to spond ■^—^ a fortnii^ht witli him at liis fisliins? hox on a lake in the Maskinoni^^e Forest ; and as it wouhl bo our first i^limi)se of the French Canadian habitant in the forest, to wliicli he tak(\s as naturally as a fisli to the Avater, we had an additional reason for beinijj i;'lad to accept the invitation. It Avas a real forest; we liad thirty miles and more to drive In buckboards over forest tracks, from Louiseville, a toAvn of tliirteen liundred iniiabitants, half-Avay betAveen Montreal and (Quebec. We had to pass a night at the principal inn, the unambitiousness of Avliich can be c:auii:ed bv the fact that the susrar basins Avere left standinj? on the dininij^-tables from one Aveck's end to another; but ambitious enouc^h for all that to have a long-distance telei)hone to Montreal and Quebec, each nearly a hundred miles aAvay, over Avhich the enteri^rising l)roprietor did his daily shopping and let his rooms to drummers (.bit/Hn', commercial trav(dl(n's) . It liad a A'erandali all roiuid, AA'ith a high Avooden plat- form, from Avhich Ave stepped into the buckboards almost on a level. The proprietor made us start ] 'j 134 T I i .1 Fisirisa iiox. 186 v(»ry (»{ii'ly in the moi'iiiiii;-, about 'rei^ation very irrei^ular in church attendance. lie shifted the THE TIN-EOOPED CHURCH OF FRENCH CANADA. market day to Sunday, and opened the market him- self i] front of the church at the close of the service, and his church was forthwith attended not only hy his own parishioners, hut hy every farmer round within a drive. We did not linger at St. Alexis, but plunged into the nine mih^s of forest which lav between us and » Lac Eau Clair. The road had been pretty bad in the open ; in the forest, except where it was rocky. ! I ■ 1 f i i t 1 1 4. ! A f'lSHING BOX. i;w it was {liabolicjil, and AvJierc it was rockv it was broaknccky. The swampy places wore corduroyed, which means that they had l'ai»'i^ots laid across them, and they all wanted re-corduroyini^ ; the buckboards bumped enough to sejiarate soul from body. Present ly a cheerful thing happened. The driver of the other backboard had taken care to take the best horses, and had U'ot so far ahead that he was out of sijjht when we came to a place where the road divided inlo two. There wxre fresh ruts in each ; Ave coo-ee-ed, but no one heard, and finally took the right road by pure chance. About a mile liefore we came to Lac Eau Clair we came upon a beautiful clearing of rich green grass, with a well-ljuilt settler's house in the middle. This belons-ed to a habitant named Gautier, whose principal interest for us lay in th(^ savageness of his dogs ; but he afforded never-ending interest to our American neighbours, who sometimes called him Goat-chaise and sometimes Zeb, his Christian name being Cyprian. I have forgotten another settler at whose house we had been stopped twenty miles farther back by an appalling thunderstorm, our Ijuckboards being open. Tlie habitant came to his door, and was too frightened to do anything except cry, " Mon Dieu ! " As the pretty girl jumpcnl she entangled her ankles in tlu; reins, and, falling heavily, lay uiuU'r tlie horses' feet I'or at least a minute Ijefore we could extricate her, Avithout th(^ smallest assistance from pere, mere, grandmere, or the score of children. II "< CI i M, 138 ON THE CARS AND OFF. ill III Lac Eaii Clair house was rather an amlntious one for the l)ackwoocls, situated charmingly on a ridge between the main lake and a smaller one ; but we lived in regular camp style, dependent on fish and berries for everything except canned and salted provisions. The lake was lovely ; a precipitous wooded island, * LAKE AND ISLAND. for all the world like a couching lion, lay in front of the house about half a mile off shore. And down at the Avater's ed^'c a beautil'ul little bathini? basin of uniform de2)tli had been divided oft' from the lak(% with a boom at the entrance for the gentlemen to (live under and swim out. Here, for the first time in Cjinada, we bathed, ladi(\s and geiitlemen together — in suitable dr(»sses, of cours(\ T A FISHING BOX. 181) Tlio unspoilediiess of the place was delif^htlul, tStanding on the boards l)et\veen the bathing-phice and the hike one coukl catch noble brook trout ; my ei<^lit-Year-old little boy caught one nearly three pounds weight. While you were hsliing, the fur minks and marte^R played round quite familiarly, even going so far a* putting their paws on the boat you were fishing from Avlien it was lying against the bank. Mr. S would never allow them to be shot. We had to reserve our rifle bullets for the loons, who laughed when it was going to rain, and the bears who stole our vegetables and rolled in the corn. We had great fun out of a loon ; they are very difficult to shoot. The matter-of-fact w^oman came into the verandah crying, " What's all this poUy-wog about ? " (a jiolly-wog being the tadpole of a bull-frog). The ])retty girl lying in a hammock said, laughing," Oh, (r has gone to shoot a loon." " I'll give you ten dollars if he does," said our hostess ; " there liasu't been one killed here for eleven years." The matter- of-fact Avomaii disappeared, and the pretty girl tried to swing herself to sleep, Avlien G , the son of the house, appeared making mysterious signs, and slie got out of the hammock with more speed than grace, and they went round to the back of the house, whence they reappeared d?'agging a great speckled bird al)out six feet long, which th(\y deposited at our hostess's feet. She duly deposited the tcni-dollar note on the l)reakfast-table next morning. Tlie bears were very entertaining ; we always i\i' i. I ^1 J I 140 O.V THE CARS AND OFF. misscul eacli otlicv. One ovcinnjj,- wc found a place wliero tliov had boon rolliui^ in tlic corn, and, it boini^ nioonlii-'lit, went back, and posted ourselves ai'tei- SUOOTIXfi A LOON. suppev I'ov tb(*ir return. It was quite a sharp nii»'ht, and the d(n\" was drenchini:^ ; l)ut 'we stuck to our watch. M(*anAvhile our hostess and the prc^tty i^irl sat up for us, snoozini;' witli dead tiredness. Th(>y l.eard a noise i i the I)ack kiteluMi, and tliouij^ht it was .1 FfsrnxG BOX. 141 t US sneaking in aslianiccl at our ompty-liandodiioss ; l)ut it was tlio bear tiirnini? over the barrel I'or the carrots, wliich they liad l)rought all the way from ^[ontreal, as Mrs. S discovered to her consterna- tion next inorninj^. The hears were very familiar at Lac Eaii Claii*. One nig'ht, as G was returning home without a rifle, he met one standing on its hind legs, drinking out of the waterhutt ; and if you took a lady out for a moonlight romance in a hirch-hark, her Avhispers were drowned in the noise the hears made coming down to the water to drink, just like a lot of lambs. They did one thing wliich made us savage. It was quite a novelty to us to tap the sugar maple and to ham? little birch-bark vessels underneath to catch the syrup ; ])ut the bears always reached the syrup first. The lake was surrounded bv subsidiarv lakes, divided by short portages, as they call the breaks over Avhich vou have to carrv your canoe in Canadn These portages through the forest were made perfectly exquisite Avith queer lichens and fu i, maidenhair fern and Avild floAvers, strangelv 2:e< *trical. Thev Avere also execrable Avith mosquit' >. They Avere too shady for berries ; for the bin* berries and rasp- berries, Avhich formed so importaii ;i feature in our cuisine, one had to go to the clearings round tln' roads. The lakes SAvarmed Avith fisli, but av(^ alwavs left off catchin2; tliem as soon as Ave had (Miougli to eat. The chipmunks, th(^ lovely little striped > J I ' h ,1 14-J ON THE CARS AXD OFF. Canadian sqiiirreLs, Avorc ii])iquitoiis, an. I so tame that I used nearly to catcli tliom in a huttorflv not. Thcv are terrible felloAvs to chatter, and scold you for a quarter of an hour if you intrude upon their privacy. I used to spend a great deal of time watchini^ them and Pierre the habitant's children. These Canuck children are as immortal as they are c numerous, nothing ever hurts them ; they used to gorge the deadly blue l)elladonna berries. Pi(nTe himself was typical in his checked, Guernse\'-shaped, Crimean shirt, butcher's-blue drill trousers, beef boots, and a dej)lorable straw hat. Beef b'^ots are a sort of loose top-boots made of raw hide — the soles of the same leather and thickness as the legs, and lapping over the feet. They are soak(^d in grease, waterpi oof, and very durable ; most of the gentle- men Avho cam(^ up fishing wore them. There Avas a sameness about the food, though there was plenty of variety of occupation ; so one day the pretty girl tried to ^iry the recjiiiiP Avith a disli of bull-frog's lees, but ni^t one of these imix'cile batrachians fell a victim to either hook or landing-net, so she Avent oiV for a tandem drive in a buckl)oard Avitli the* tAvo high-stepping bays Avhicli drcAV the millionaire's carriage in ^Montreal. AVe did not expect them to return, for the horses Avere almost unmanageable in toAvn, and the bridges here Avere so shaky and the \vu\< so dangerous ; but tbe leader felt shy in liis m^w surroundings, and, far from shoAving any of his toAvn tem])er, tried every dangerous place as gingerly as T?-* ^l FISHING BOX. UA ■ ^% an old maid. Our liostess was a splendid l)ackw()ods- man ; she swam, rode, paddled, and drove with remarkable strength and grace, and shot like a man. The French Canadians are most enduring and honi hackwoodsmen, l)ut they hate and dread the water. Mrs. S — — had sent the cook across the lake to fetch \ J* J,, i (i iv! INTERIOR 01' A SETTLER'S HOUSE. a girl to help in the house. It was three miles to the bottom of the lake and six miles beyond through the wood. Just as they were ready to start back a puft' of wind rippled the lake, and rather than face; the ripples they slept all night in the woods. There was only (jmc drawback to the iishing, and tliat Avas the un-ms w uld not '^vow in the soil. 144 ON THE CARH AND OFF. They liacl to l)i'ing' a cartload of earth thirty mih's the- ihl tal)lisli a colony of the hiimhh' eartliworm. Eiit there were lots of snakes — only th(; harmless milk snakes, which the hahitants always killed because they said they sucked the cows (they were always ready to point you out the scratches of snake's teeth on the udders). One day we paid a visit to our American neighl)ours, Avho lived a sort of champagne and pate de fois gras Hie in the hack- woods. They used the finest and most expensive spider tackle, and had a pond full of fine fish in the garden in case they felt too lazy to go any farther ; but they had most divine lakes all round, with swampy banks full of the strange and lovely pitcli(M' plant, and one of them with a beaver dam, sixty feet long, tremendously thick and high. Here they carefully preserved beavers in the summer, A\liich the habitants as carefully poached in the winter. One of the residents in the neighbourhood Avas a great character. He lived in a poor little shack, with a whitewashed interior, which contained hardly anything except a cradle and some kitchen chairs, and consisted onlv oi a kitchen, and an attic reachcMl by a ladder, divided into two cabins ; but it was his boast that he had once owned Chicago. It appears that about half a century ago he did have a farm embracing much of the land on Avhich the capital of advertisement noAv stands. It was amid the glorious pine woods of Lac Eau Clair that I wrote my "' Lester, the Loyalist " ; and A FISH I Si i llOX. Ub Ill's, 10(1 his ars Urm 1 of tlio scene ol' the Shei'woods' lioiise is in i'(>ality laid hero, thoiii^h the r(miaiii(hn' of tlie New IJi'unswick scerery is i^cniiinc. The snowiiii^'-up incident actually happonod in a settler's hut here. Qui* host drove us down in style from Lac Eau Claiv to St. Ah^xis Des Monts, hut Ave continued tlie journey I'rom St. Alexis to Louisoville in the butcher's huck- hoards. Th(0)utcher's iji^rey mare was a trifle rocky in its joints, and roused tlu^ matter-of-fact woman's scorn. " How many knots an hour w ill that old mopokc* ii'o r " But the butcher did not understand Enujlish — or Australian. Still he felt that she wislu^d to b(; unsympathetic, so he jumped on the box of our buckboard. I conversed with him in my best French, and at the end he remarked, with a line provincial contempt for my accent, " You come from the old France, Monsieur ? " It Avas Sunday aftcu'noon when Ave g*ot back to Louisoville, and avo found half th(^ population makiui:^ a church parades of tli(^ raihvay station (a popular custom in the villagn^s of NoAv Franco), the other half boguiliuf^ a broiliiii;' sunim(n''s dav Avitli a ball in our hotel to a band of three instruments broug'ht all tin? AA'ay from Quebec. Verily, one felt that the 2)lacc Avas excelling itself. 10 CirAPTER XI 11. THE TirorSAM) /SLA.\/)S OF Tlfi: ST. LAWIUlXCi:, TORONTO, AX/) XJA(iA/fA. ^T^IIEY do tliini?s on a Vdvs^c scale in America. The ^ St. LaAvronco, where it receives th(^ waters ol' Lake Ontario, is a trifle of (^iii^lit miles Avide, and contains the far-famed Thousand Islands, which are considerahly over a thousand in numh(n' and vary in size from an island hig enough to contain a town to a mere rock with one nodding tr(»e. So Avooded to the water's cdi^e are the Thousand Islands, that one Avould not count an islet that did not run to a tree of some sort. Though so wide, the Avater is often very shalloAV ; there arc Avide stretches of Avater on(^ could Avade across, i?enerall\^ forested Avith reeds. As the boundary line hetAVcen tlu; State of Xcav York and the Province of Ontario runs doAvn the middle of the St. LaAvrence, it folloAvs that the Thousand Islands are half in Canada and hall" in the United States. The contrast hetAveen them is as marked as the conti-ast l)etAveen the countries. On the Canadian side it is ujencn-allv one island one liouse, and a A'ery simple one at that. On the American side there are fashionable Avatering'-places Avith great hotels and luxurious villas. T/forSANl) ASA.I.\7).s' or ST. LAWliKNCi:, KTC. 147 It is not my purpos(» in tliis cli.-iptcr to dcscrihc tlic cx'tmva^'aiu'cs of rasliioiiahic life in the Tliousand Islands, — Alcxandiia Jiay witli its liiinr liotcls or snniptnons villas, snch as that Ixdoni^ini;' to the family of Dr. ILoIland, late editor ol* the (^'tifuri/ M((ij'h, with their i>'audy ])aint. --Piii"L!J«»»P^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // {./ ^ >. is ^i^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 i:i|21 12.5 ■JO ^^ I^MI i^ 12.0 J^ 1 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 4 ^ v •S5§ \\ ^ V'^qN 23 WIST MAIN STRiET WEBSTER, N.Y. I45M (716) •72-4S03 I4R O.V 77//; ('AIf."" a little river with a course oi' at least a dozen vards. JJut Ave maintained our independence hy a channel lour or five feet deep, clear as <;lass and full of the most e\([uisite leathery water- weeds, which was a i'e<;ular Kraken, if you did not reni'Miiher to swim hii^'h. or course we spent some of every day in swimming', •generally at m)on, or the hour iM'I'ore dinner at ni<;ht. The water was tlien so caressini-lv warm. Jioth sexes wore comprehensive bathini;' dresses and bathed toii:ether, and there were such (U'liii:htrul excursions to he made, now wadinij^, now swimmini;' to other islets, ir we felt inclined for boating' instead of swinmiinii', ^^^' used to jump into one of the llotilla of boats (none of them up to \('Y\ much) let with the house, and ])ull across to tlie summer home of a friend, a delii^htful little clialet, situated, not upon an island, but on a peninsula of uncommon beauty, with three sides descendinL? ])erpendicularly to the river, and the fourth through beautiful Avoods to a shallow, sunny bay, Avhich i;ave us the most charmini;' bathinu; Ave ever enioved. Full advantau^e had been taken, Avitli lloAver ami fern, of the i^ardeniui;' ca])a- bilities of the ])lace. The only drawback was the occasional incursion of a skunk. AVhat this means i:>n 0\ Tin: CA/iS AM) OFF. inav he iudi'cd Iroiu a curious local lawsuit. A iiciiticMiaii hired a hunu'alow Tor the summer; while; 1m' was then; a skunk came; and estahlished itself under the verandah, the house hecomini^', ol' course, untenahle ; he; naturally left and refused to pay the balance of the rent ; the proprietor sued for it and •i;ot it, because there had been no proviso about skunks in the lease. The prospect from the house and cliiVs was simply ex(iuisite — island after island, lari^e and small, and ])ays with l)am1)()o-l)rakes of reeds. Of course, one simply lived in boats ; it Avas so enchantint^ to ])addle lazily aloni^ the channcds between the rocky, woody islands — channels clear as crystal, with swayini^ gardens of water-weed at their bottoms. Nor Avas it far to thf; broad main channel of the river, where one could u;et (juiti! a sea in u-usty weather. This was our iishini;' j^'round. rishin<»; in the Thousand Islands comes about as near lishiuL^ from an armchair as anythinijf 1 have tried. If you arc; wise, as 1 was, and hire oiu; of the rej^ular lishermen who make a business of takini^ out .Vmericans, inst(;ad of puUinji^ yourself about to tlie wroni^ ])laces Avitli the wronj^ tackle in oiu; of tlie leaky boats you have hired with the bunijjalow, vou have a iinc; roomv l)oat, with luxurious cushions and l)ack(Ml seats. On each side of the; boat is a shoe to stick the rod into, and a crutch on the ()])})osite i^unwale to hold it in j)()siti()n. The rod itself is a strong' bamboo about ten feet loiii^, with a bell at tin; ejid. When the iish bites, the ])ell rini^s, and you T\ T//orSANI) /SLAXDS OF ST. LA WHENCE. ETC. VA draw tli(^ lino to you by a littl(» cross lanyard, and haul in. 11' you arc not aml)itious, tlio lioatman takes the line from you when the lisli is near cnoui^h for you to liav(5 a chanct; of losini^' it, and lilts it into th(» boat. \h\ of course, docs all tbc baitiuii; as well as all the rowiui^. In this way quite a novice may Im; credited with a catch ol' a lordly niaskeluni»;e (locally known as a " luni^e ") runninjjf up to twenty pounds weii^ht, or a uionster j)ike. Somc^ boatmen even i^o so I'ar as to keep little flags for mountinii; in the bows wh(?n a " huii^c " has been captunnl. They are i,'ettini^ rarc^ in these much-fished water's, thouj^h they are still plentiful in places like tjie Muskoka Lakes. You r(uid a novel till the; bell ri)ij,^s — the latest one piratcul from l^nj^land, and tlu^rel'ore i)ur- chasabh; from iifteen to tvventy-iiv(^ cents. The peoph; who enjoy tlu'mselves uiost in tin* Thousaiul Islands are the u^ood Caiuulians, who, as w(5 did, hire a little island with a little bungalow on it, furnished with nothing but tlu; ])are walls and windows. Tliey bring no more than they would tak(5 into camp with them — in fact, less, b(?cause they do not want tents, aiul simi)ly live al I'lrsco ; they an^ on the water all tlu; day and most of the night; and the; parties geiu'rally contain assorted cou])les. Given the cloudless Caiuulian summer, given the most romantically lovely coves and islands imaginable, picture life a perpetual j)icnic broken up \\\U)ti't('-o-ti'ten, and vou have; somi* i(U'a of the Golden Age and canoe-camp life in the Thousaiul Islaiuls. 11 •! fl .' %A 152 <>.\ THE cMis AM) orr \\v (lid not oiilv niralisc. As I was an l]ni;lisl) man of letters, we were asked to plenty of ii:ar(Ien |)arties oi- rather island ])arties; and the hos))ital>le Canadians wonld even i;() to the expense oi chart er- ini;- a sju'cial steamer to brinL;: the leadini;' literary ])e()])le and others whom they thouii;ht I shonld like to meet from Kingston or T(n*onto. The local quests came in every conceivable s])ecies oi" skill' and canoe and catamaran. JUit the hliii^ht of the Vrohibition Act liuni^ over all the Festivities, which i^enerally consisted of tea and I'ruit and conrectioiiery and ice- cream and introductions. As far as I remember, none of our hosts were unreu^enerate enoui»li to oll'er us a " square drink," tli()uii:li the weather made it as easy to raise a thirst as if one had been east ol" Suez. Our larder was a (liflicultv with us. I must sav that the prettv i^irl, who had undertaken the caterinijf, treated us rather badlv. She had to be; rowed two or three miles to iret to the towiishi[), and thoui^h we had a treasure of a man who roAved the boat, cooked the meals, and made the beds, it took such an effort to jjfo shopping, that she fed us almost entindy uiion potatoes and canned ^;oods and blueberries, aiul iisli — until we were simj)ly afraid to brini? our lish in (especially if the fish were pike, which run lari^e and eat coarse), and could not endure the slight of blueberries. Added to this, she would not have any beer or spirits on th(» island because she considered it a temptation to the boat- man. A fortnight of practical teetotalism combined i i^T T/ifirs.wi) />LA.\j)s (IF ST. A.I ii7,7;.vr7.\ irrc. \:,:\ f' witli a diet of lislj and wild I'niit made iiic Iccl as thill as a rat, till I liit upon flic expedient of si'iidiiin' the hoatniaii just hel'oi-e tlie hotels tdosed at iiii-iit to l)riiii;' me in tlie darkness sullicient evil I'oi' the morrow. JTe took tlie empty hot ties l)ack next nii;ht, and as lie was not a teetotaller and I always i;ave liim a (puirter Tor his trouhle I don't see how the temptation was eliminated. It is warm work rowinn' lour or live miles on a Canadian summer nii^ht. Anylu)W, it hore fruit in the thereafter, hecause, when we went campini^ ovt Trout Lake, she withdrew the Prohihition emhari^o. From the Thousand Islands avo passed, in a cra/y little steamer which sj)ent most of its time in runninL;' auround, to Kini^ston, the ancient i^'rontenac, a hand- some little city ideally situated on a ])oint riumim;' out into Lake Ontario. Frontenac thoui^'ht it the linest site he had ever seen, and iia Salle was its j^overnor until he made that expedition down the Mississippi tliat was to have l)ronn;ht him to the Vermilion Sea, face to face with Cathay, hut only took him to the liavous, on Avliich he founded New Orleans, and found his death. Kini^ston is like a hit of the old Avorld, with its ramparts, its Martello towers, its Military AcacU'mv, and its stately stone streets emhosomcHl in ancient trees. Once u])on a time a hundre(l-i»-un ship was huilt here, of timher sent from Eni»land, and here Ontario (U])])er Canada) hecame a colony. But that was a hundred years au-o. Kinirston has lonu' ceased to he the seat ol P'fT M i-:: l.'>4 O.V Tin: CARS AM) OFF. (Jovcnnncut. Tin* stately old GovcnniKMit JIous(? is still standini^, clmrmiiiii^ly situatrd on the lake shore, and now has an added interest to t\w literary world as th(5 Canadian home of Grant Allen, whose lather lives there. The blood of La Salle ran in the veins of his mother, who was one of the Grants, whose barony of Loni^ueil was the only iitlc in New France recot,'nised by the British Government. Mr. Allen has some fine historical portraits of old Canada, amonj^ them one of La Salle. Kingston is now a port of considerable im})ortance, and a i^reat (nluca- tional centre; but we could not lini^er there, because? we had to be at Toronto by a fixed day for tlu? auiiual exhibition. Toronto is the Chicago of Canada, the heart of English Canada, the centre of the most flourishing portion of the Dominion. It does not ('(pial Montreal in i)opulation by twenty-five per cent., and the headquarters of the great comi)anies arc for th(» most i)art at Montreal, as the seaport which stands at the head of navigation. But tlu; Toronto branch will often rival in imjwrtancc; the head oflice in ^lontreal. The millionaires live; in Montreal, but there are more evidences of dill'used wealth in Toronto, and more bustle and /inni about it, as the Americans say — tlu; fact being that Montreal is a French community, Avitli English for its head, while Toronto is all English. Toronto is one of the most unpleasantly righteous cities I was ever caught in on a Sundav. Tramwavs do not run, and the pul)lic-houses are closed from ^ rmHHASl) JSLAXDS OF ST. A.I ll7i7;.Vr/;. /;/Y'. i:,;, srvcM on Sal unlay nii^ht till Monday nioruiiii;- not that that niakrs niucli (liMcrcncM* in Caiuula, wIkm'c^ Uroliihilionist hiws ant strict, but not strictly rci^ardcd. I had this very amusinij:ly broui^ht homo to me. [ was lu'ini^ driven about tlic city by one of the; loadinij; ';i COLONEL GKOUUK TAYLOU DK.MSOX. editors, who was doinj:; tlio lionours of tlic ])lac(*, introducini»' me to all the leadinjjj citizens and institu- tions. Amonii; other i)laces, we happened on the Toronto Fair or Exhibition, where 1 was introduced at once to the head, who behaved most mvsterioush . lie led the way straii^ht into his oilice cui)boar(l, which had fortunately a ray ol' lii;ht, though it was ill I o.V 77//; c.l/is A.\n OFF (Irvotcd to Iti'oitiiis and siich-likr, till tlici* was lianlly room to stand. It was all alioiit a hottjc ol I'lfc, as tlicv call wliiskv in Canada, dcltlv hidden anioiiii' these Lares and I'enates. The exhihition was run on prohihitionist lines wcekdavs as well as Suiidays (tlioui;:h they do not reckon ci(h'r alcoholic), and even in the seclusion ol' his own ollice the head dared not olVer me a drink till he had hidden me in the hroom closet. We s|)ent a i^reat deal ol' time at the lair without my derivini;' much edification; it seemed to consist mostly ol' domestic animals and ai^i'icultural machines, hardware and wood ware, heds that turned into ])ureaus, ori^anettes, and fruits in syru))s, — tliinn's in whicli {'(U'the most part I am not an e\'l)ert, tlioui"]! the lurniture certainly struck me as e.vceedinL''lv u'ood. The Ontarians know how to turn to advanta*;'!' the hcautiful woods ol' tiie province. I am told tluit tlicir orij^ans and pianos are very ii:ood. or course, in ai;'ricultural machines Ontario has a worhl-widc re))utation; there are very few ))arts ol" the worhl wliere one cannot see a Masscy Jveaper- and-JJiiulcr. The exhihition was immense, and so was the concourse ol* ])eoph' rnmiall the neiL!:hl)ourinL' parts of Cana(hi and tlie United States. I was lioncstlv H'hul Avhen tea-time came, Tor ^Ir. (ioldwin Smitli liad written to say that he would send his carriai^c to fetch us u]) to meet some of Ids friends, as mourninu" ])rccludcd liim from entertainini;' in a more formal Avav. Goldwin Smitli lias the most ideal house in Canada, The Gramme, a deal' old TiioisAM) isL.wDs or ST. i..\\\iii:.\( i:. i.rc. u>i ciiloiiial house, with a (h>ini'si)(> roiiiul it, rii^lit in th«' hrart ol' the ritv -a sort of Toronto llonaud Park. Tho 1joiis<' is typical ol' the man. in the very crntrc ol" rvrrythinii:, hnt isohitcd ; an admired, hwi nnimitatcd hindmark. Amoni; wire-pnilinu; jioliticians he lias no I'ollowers. liut there is no one whose jud^nient is considered so inde|)endent, and people recot^nise that there is no one whose i;ood opinion is so hard to have, and whose criticism is so dillicnlt to disarm. The value ol' a man with the courai^t; ol' his o])inions is inestimable in a new country, when» it is almost imi)ossil)le to escajH* Iron tin; treadmill ol' loi^-rollinu;. Mis worst enemy never accused (ioldwin Smith ol* l()i;-roliini^. lie has s^eiieraliy l)een a CassaiKh'a, popuhir with neitlier the imported nor the native- horn Canadian. Kacli likes liearin*^ the other al)used, hut li(5 lias a Imppy knack ol' ])uttini^ himsidl' out ol' court with each. WIkmi a minuti; hel'orc h(; lias llatteriMl Now AV'orld foihl(»s by harpini^ on the advantai?es ol' (h'mocracies, liowever cru(h', in the next he will trample on them witli some sucli remark as calliui;' a C()h)nial nniversity a contradiction in terms. But lie enjoys !j;reat })ersonal resjx'ct. I was lunchim^ with him at his clul) one day in a room full ol' tlie al)lest men in Toronto, ami could not hel[) markiniij tlu; deference? with which they n'ceive(l this tall, spare heiiii^ I'rom another sj)here, with his scornful, inteUectual face, and his marvellous irit't of literary exj)ression. There are many strikinii; Torontonians, — for in- 1 ■^ f^) I6« o.v Tin: cAh's AM) nrr. stance, tlic (|U«mm' (icnnaii-lookini^ Premier, so advanced in intenial policy, hut so resolute a I'oe to the a»nalii:ainatioii of Caiuuhi with tlie Tnited States, tlie author of that ranious ])l»rase, "a hostih' country to th(» soutli (►!' us"; or Colonel (ieori;'e Tavlor Denison, ll(U' Majesty's most h)val cohniial- horn suhject, the smart cavalry oHicer who won the prize o))en to the whole world olVered hy tlu' Czar of all the Russias Cor the hest cavalry manual. "We stayed at a commercial hotel at Toronto, the Walker House, and received hetter food and atten- dance than at the much-vaunted Palace Hotel at San Prancisco — ujreen corn, in particular, we never had so a^ood in any hotel on the American Continent. We wen; inconveniently crowded, it is true ; hut what place Avould not hnvo heen crowdcvl at Toronto in the Fair week ? Toronto is most enjoyahly situ- ated, rii^ht on Lake Ontario, thoui^h the City Fathers, for some reason known only to themselves, have allowed the railway companies to monoj)()lise the whole foreshore. But there is a charmini? walk to Hanlan's Point, and Toronto has its specialities, summer and winter — yachtinij^ on Lake Ontario in th(* simimer, and ice-hoatini^ in winter. And what oth(n* capital in the world is there with just a narrow lake to sail across, and a spectacle like Niai^ara opposite ? The; (lav we went to Ts'iau^ara, Lake Ontario \\as cmphasisiui*' th(* fact that a shallow lake can rival the Atlantic for damper and discomfort to v()vai>ers. TfK^rsAxn fsr.wns ftr st /,.i iiVi'/wr/;. rrc i.v \V(' were ill Ji slialxv old wooden sidc-wlirrl steaiiKM". as tlic YaiikiM' cr Is tlu-iii, and tlic seas were short and lieavy. One wave \^^nlld send tlie steamer almost on lier l)eam ends, and Itelore she recovered lierseir tlie next hit her and made her shake like ehatterini,' teeth. The prettv u^irl, who did not know what Tear was on the ocean, even when it was too roiiijh for any one to eat ('xcept the oHlcers, was i;'eiiiiinely I'l mhtened, and made lis ])romise to i;o hack hv land; almost evervhodv on hoard was s(»a- sick, and tlu^ win(h)ws rattled like dice in a hox. We did Lfo hack hy land, and when we arrived in Toronto heard that the return voyage had heeii so much rouii:her that nearly every i)ane of ii:lass in the steamer was smashed. Once on shore, it was si«;ht-seeini;' with a ven- H'eance. The hoy on the cars was simply loaded with li-.'rature, or rather art, on the siihject of Niai^ara, aiul th(» people rushed from side to side in chase of the vi(MV. The town of Xiai^ara consists mainly of cahs, kee])sakes, ami restaurants. Adver- lisements are no loiiijjer more cons])icuous than the Falls, hut they enjoy due consideration on the American side. The Canadian Government hav<' cleared them out i)aiij and haii^ij^aijje, with the shai'ks who used to remhn* a visit to Niai^ara more expen- sive than a vouni? second wife. Niai^ara is not Horse- le price. rriOUSASD islands of ST. LAWRENCE, etc. 163 including the hire of an oilskin suit. This last was not so impressive as I expected ; it only looked like a cross between a cellar and a shower bath ; you could form no idea of the size or thickness of the body of water looking at it through a gap like a larder Avindow. There is a capital hotel on the Canadian side, where Mr. Erastus Wiman, the New York millionaire, who has lately been imprisoned for business irregularities, used to entertain representa- tive people sumptuously, and after they were wcdl eaten and drunken, trot out his annexation fallacies, whence the skit beginning — " Will you walk into my parlour? said the Wiman to the fly, I've the gnat Falls of Niagara a-roUing rolling by." Impossible as it might seem, the Falls freeze in winter into a great hill of ice. All the country round Niagara was debatable in tlie year 1812. Here are the Queenston Heights, where Brock hurled tlie American army into the river, and died in the moment of victory. Close by is Lundy's Lane, another Canadian victory-field ; and, a fcAV miles west, Beaver Dams, wh(n*e, owing to the heroism of Laura Secord, Colonel Boerstler surrendered six hundred infantry, fifty cavalry, two field guns, and a stand of colours to a boy ensign, with forty British soldiers and two hundred militia- men and Indians. These foughten fields are now a forest of peach trees, a garden of grapes. Over a million baskets of peaches are shipped from Grimsby alone, and the only Canadian wine is made from ■•I t • 'i ■. 1 H. m 164 ON THE CARS AND OFF. Niagara grapes. As the poet lloberts once Arrote on the Brock column at the summit of Quecnston Heights, " Standing on this gallery, one sees unrolled before him a matchless panorama of hattle-field and vineyard, of cataract and quiet stream, of dark wood and steejilod villages, and breadths of i^eacli orchards, and fortresses no longer hostile ; and far across the blue waters of Ontario, the smoke of the great city toAvards which our feet are set." TROUT LAKE, AND CAMPINaOUT IN CANADA. '! ' I I I rll . CIIAPTEU XIV. ' M THE bungalow life in tlio Tliousand Islands put it into our minds to try some real campinij^-out in tents in the forest primaival, and where there was something else to catch l)esides pik(; which hooked themselves and rang the hell when they were ready. Everybody assured us tliat the very l)est district for this kind of thini*' was the chain of lakes which formed the headwaters of the Ottawa and Mattawa rivers. They told us, moreover, that the easiest way to strike them was to go by train to North Bay, the saw-mills town on Lake Nipissing, Avliich is the junction of the line from Toronto with the Canadian Pacific Railway's main line from Vancouver. "When we ii;ot there we were directedtto drive^out about six miles throu"'!! the forest to Trout Lake, and then to go by boat and canoe as far as ever we liked from one lake to anotlu^r. And this is why we are here — stranded (with the sun going down) at the water's edge of a sandy blulf on a lonely island, separated by half a dozen miles of water and half a dozen miles of thick forest from the nearest town, and that little more than a railway r I 'in ' ,, 105 it;r> ()\ Tin: ( AHs AM) nrr (ii\ isi«)ii:il point ill our conicr ol' iUr i;-n>Mt L.'ikr Nipissiiii;. However, licre we mi'c, ;iii(1 \vr IVel (piile llinnkriil for \h',\\ ; lor when we were oiil in llie middle ol" llie lour-nnle nvieli Hie i;nide, wilii Hie noneliMJaiiee ol' liis rnee. rein.irked H il he hoped il wonid nol hlow, heeimse il' he h.id Hion;;lil I here was anv eiianee of il, lie would nol have venlnred onl in ^^^W^ ■^ HHIP^'&^ ' " 1 ■ \ '< ■"^Ulir **•" m^^ms^^ . ;f^' ■ / MilONI.KillT.tlN l.AKK MI'1SSIN(; I /■„,,/,„. tlie open in sneh a crazv old hireh-hark. Kven ti'ollinij: (without i:;ettini>' any bites) was liardiv suHici(Mit distraetion to drive away nn])leasa)it thoui^hts till wo were in shore ai^'ain. Our lleet consisted of a scow — a kind of l.-.ri;'e punt, to transport the tents and the stoi'es and tlie eani]) kettles which had made* such a ij^lorions rattling* as th(» hnckhoard hnnipiMl over the nnniitii;ated corduroy trail throui^h the forest — the aforesaid hirch-hark, riiovr i,.\Ki:, .i,v/> I'.wi'/xaorr /.v r.i.v.i/>.i. ic? one ('(Hild not dcsirr .miiv ..(1(1 n skill". l'N)rl miJilcly wr liiid n. sen. cMpjjiin jiiihhii;' (lie party, who sjiilcd llic scow with hitmI siicccss, h)okii>u,' ill the (lisl.iiKM' as if it iiiiist h<^ CJirrviii''" I'x' hody ol' K iiiu,' Art hiir. This is Hit;- ('ainp Ishiiid vci'v well tiaiiicd, I'or hcttcr cfmipiiii.^ ground than this hij-li and (\v\ hliilV ol' sand with its ('crtaiiitv of dry hcds, shrltcrcd hy thi(d\ woods IVoin the prcvail- iiii;* winds, hut siiirKriciit iy c.h'arcd aroiiiid the (ramp to kmiiided us that we had intended to eat lish I'or supper. As one of the L;-uides (a, temporary one only) was laiiie, and thercTore not of much use in pitching- the caiiip, hr was told oil" to take my small ])oy and inyseir to tlie nearest (ishin^-L''round to provide the ^iipi )0V Capt nil M and the other uiiide liad already started ciittinLV poles and erect iiii^' the tents, and the ladies stave(l ashore under tlw^ delusion that tlie culinary ccnnrorts of th(r expedition de|)en(led on them. The iKatter-ol'-ract woman did not seer tin; good of cainpini;-out at all — she had only come to clia])eroiie the jiretty on(\ Our llshini^-^round was only half a mile olV, in full view, hetweeii a littl(3 rocky islet and the op{)osit(; shore. Trout Lak(3, I !l 'i V } \M OX Tin: (All's Axn off uj.'iy <'xi)I}iin, thoiiii;!! ten milrs \m\\r, is ij^cncrjilly not wider tliiiii a i^ood rivsso|), the only iiilmhitnnt of tli(> iippiM' end ol' tlu* lake, who supplies I ho hoats and ,i;Miid('s, was in d (losi)aii H's tluMU lilllo rock IVIIcrs; thcv'ro no ;'ood to cat, and s i;'('t Hock ' Isn't ni;' is) 1' (lark ike an rod lo :;, I'ood 11(1 llic (»ar to ; back 1)V Ins ■ , little biittiM" 'I", and ■()i"-ract uNircd, otatocs ia(l(^ ns Jrsso)), hy to a ad that blazini^' TliOirr I.AKi:, AND CAMriNd OUT /.V CANADA. 109 (ire, ajid a_ l»ii^ jnlc of Iol^s in rcscrvrv \V<» won' hardly thr(niu;li the IraL-raiit meal when the diirK'iilly of seeiii|L!; the way lo our months, or I'atheronr I'ood, I'orcM'd the nn welcome dis{;overy on ns that we had hroni^ht no lamps ()r eandh's. '{'he people at the (capital j'acilic Motel, at North Hay, whieh \\r had niad(^ onr hasi*^ for this eampini-' expedition, had heen kindness itsell" lo ns. I'\»r their moderate two dollars a head per day chari'-e they had kept on onr rooms Tor ns, with all onr masses of lni;'<;a^(^ nndist nrhed, and nndertaken to snpply ns with onr I'ood for the expedition I'hm^ of extra, charge; hnt, as th(^ stall' of the hotel did not i^o ont campinL;' them- selves (jnite every (hiy, they naturally conid not be expected to remember everyt hini;'. 1 was snrprised at beinL*' able to b(^ tin; ^h'lis r.r iiiai'liiixi. Nobodv elsc^ had (^v(M' heard of th(^ common slndi^-e lain[> ol' tln^ Anstralian bnsli ; l)nt directly I described it, onr hall'-bired i^'rencli i^iiide, (ieor^"(r ilancier (oin' ol' tin; liandiest men 1 ever saw), had cut th<^ salmon-tin hall'-way down, to mak(^ a shad(; I'rom the wind, ])nt a small ])i(^ce more ol' onr all-ns(5rnl salt pork into the rryin^'-pan, and rray(Ml ont and nn])icked a ra««", which h(^ wov(; into a most workmanlike wick ([nick as lii^htniiii'' ; and we wer(^ soon havini^' a noble smokinu: Hare, aided bv i'n^sh rn(d on th(^ lire. With this additional strain on it, it was ([iiite clear that the I'nel wonld not hold out I'or the nij^ht, so L bad half an honr's stnuiL? exercise in r(dlini^ a tree, which had been Ici't rather nearer the camp than most ( 1 i !l n ' ! ft. I7(» n.V Till' CAIfS AM) nl'F lu'cnusc it W.MS HiicK to ciil down in a I'cw clinps. 'V\ loddv lor til lio liked it. Ii UMi loddv tor tlioscwlio lilw<>d divnudv ont of (\'inadi:in rvt* and Icnions i)v tli.'it invalnnMe liMll'-hrccd, nnd to IhmI. I, |)rrson,Mllv, prrlVrnMl drvotini'' niv attention to the lovely moonlit niiilit ; the pines of the siirronndiny; Avood silhonelt iny; ai;;iinst tii(» Miie starlit sKv ; the steelv lake under KLVt * . . 'T^i E^flSHMHHJHI^^H x^ ^^^JH g|||l Hfl 1^1 TI!l)I.I,IN(i IN \ IIIIM ll-lt.\UK CANOi:. \T,<,,Uy tho tall sandy point, with the moon streteliinii; rii:;lit across it in a ^litterinL"-, ([uivcM'ini;' shaft ; th<' hlack pine masses ol' the o])posite shore ; and the thr(M» hack- Avoodsmeii outlined against the tents bv the hlood-red glare ol' the i»'ii;'aiitie lire. lUit we all had to ^o to bed like Closes. No wonder that AVilliam the Conqueror's liritish sub- jects hated the curl'eAV so. However, the beds Tifotr i..\Ki\ ASh <\\\ii'is(i-in: r i\ rAs.\n.\. 171 llinnsrlvrs ucrr |(»v«'Iv soil deep piles of I r}ii;i;iiit I'll" iMM'dIrs with dccr-skin nii;s pilrd (iii llicni, jiiid icrl liidi.'iii lilMiikcts on the tn|) ut' tlicsc. \\\{\ so, liMvinu,' 110 lii;lit ;it (MM* end, wr u:ot ,'is iiiiicli as we could at tlir olln'i' l)V risiiii;- hd'orr dawn, while the mists were still rolliiii;. We lost no time in tnakinn' up the lire, lor it was hitterlv cold; hnt \v<' c((nsidered I ■/■.'/.(. i/- win.iti; Till. DKKit imisK. I/..,,/,.,. Iliat we slioiild not he doini; tlie tiling- |)i-operIy unless we halhed — all except the matter-ol'-ract woman, who put olT her hath to the middle of the (lav, " when all ol" von will he loolinLi' r()un(l al'ter the lish." 'V\n\ ])r(;tty i^ii'l walked hallamih^ to ilnd a snUicicntly se(|uestei'e(l cove for Diana's Lath, Inin^' lien* iookini^-i^lass — a .Iapanes(; one — on a tree, and phin«i;e(l in. When she came out she was so long' doinj'' her liair with her i'rozcu fin;i;ers that 172 ON TIIK CARS AND OFF. the univorsjil providJM* of a luilt'-hriMMl tliouj^ht slio must liuvo ^ot crain|) and Ihmmi diow iicd. lie went (r believe not expecting; to brinijj licr body back witli tlie soul inside, thouj^h he did), and slie was very tflad to be ])roui»;lit l)ack witli a lew (U'l't strokes in tlie l)irch-bark, instead of havincj to Force a way back tliroui^'Ii tlie dewy wood. The i^entlenien, of course, bathed oil' th(^ particularly bald sandy blulV within a few yards of the cani]) ; the matter-ol'-ract woman could be reli(Ml on not to disturb them; she had announced her intention ol' cookinu; lu'r own break- fast in the middle of tlu; morniiiLj;. We were all a(ir(5 to u;et to iho lishini';, more especially as we had to ^o tor bait to a reedy shallow, where there mii^-ht be a deer il' Ave went early enoui^'b and ([uietly enou<;h. They were out of season, but seasons do not sii^nify in the forest. The pr(^tty i^irl, too, felt nervous about the straw- berry jam. AVe had only brought two pots, and the sea captain, who, in spite ol" the liard tack he had been accnstomed to all his life, was I'ar dainti(U' than the delicately brought up ladies, and swore (in guarded language) at the victuals all the time, schemed inclined to concentrate the whole of his Gargantuan appetite on this one item. So she promised to go in the skilf alone Avitli him, if he would start at once. Charles and T and the half- breed went into the shaky birch-bark. It Avas a bit of Paradise — a soft September morning ; we glided between tAVO lovely Avooded islands, over t i Tiinrr laki:, .i.v/> rAMrrxa-ofr /.v caxaha. i7m luili'- clcHi' shallow water in n li«;ht canoe, plied so deftly tliat the oiilv noise was tiie hissing; ol' tiie reeds as wo slipped thronu'li tiieni to the place where the deer came down to water. Here we ))ost«Ml in anihnsh, uhile the i^uide canu;ht innltitudinons minnows as hait I'or the hass ami pickerel. /'idr the name — Trout Lake — we wcmm; told that it was hi«'hlv unlikely that we should catch anv trout. The hrook trout were not I'ond of this # lake, and it was too early in the season Tor the monster lake? trout to come into the shallows, when; we miy:ht catch them. In the summer they swim very dcej) ; one has to have a ^OO-l'oot heavily weis^htcd line, and even then they do not bite I'recdy. Xo deer came ; so avo divided the hait with the skill', and paddled into a lonij; hay with many head- lands, round each oi' which, as we came u\) to them, Ave expected to catch that most cxcitin«^ of tinny prey — black bass. lUit never a bite did we j^et, and we I'elt like givinj^ up the whole tliin«; in desjiair (as, from their attitudes, the captain and the pretty girl obviously had), when the half-breed's quick vya detected a pickerel in a little bay. Takini^ my rod he angled for him, and the tisli bit greedily. " Take your rod back, sir," he said ; " if there arc any more round here they will bite like fury." And I did, and almost as fast as I could bait my line hooked tine pickerel, four or five pounds weight, which towed the little canoe round iu their struggle to free i I I ^1 K> V I il t*' I" if 174 ON THE CARS AND OFF. themselves. So strong and i^reedy wore they that they kept breaking my hooks until I took the triple hook of a spinning l)ait and used that. They still swallowed the bait freely. I caught about a hundred pounds' weight of tlieni in an hour, and then left off to go home for lunch. :'i-. /- si:^ my hundredweight of pickkrkl. author's return to big camp island. In the afternoon we had a taste of the other side of camp life. Captain M and Charles and I were in the skiff lying oif the opposite shore for the black bass that would not come, and the guides had gone off, one to get more bait and the other twelve miles back to North Bay for candles and lamps. Sailor like. Captain M had seen the squall coming and run the boat into a cove sheltered from that quarter. that riple still idred ft oft- side of I were black ad gone we miles Sailor le TROUT LAKE, AND CAMPING-OUT IN CANADA. 175 There was, moreover, a sail in the l)oat, for he had a craze for trying to sail anything that would float. When the first drops came, we had made ourselves, our rifles, and our worms, the only things in the boat worth anything, snug under the sail, though .'- / ^^^ THE BASS THAT BUOKK THE ROD. Captain M got pretty wet in looking out from time to time to see if the boat was all right. The ladies were not so fortunate. The jDretty girl, not feeling very bright, was lying on her bed reading a novel, when suddenly she heard a pitter patter. It had been bright sunshine when she was outside a few minutes before, without a breath astir in the ft I Ml 1 il if *» ^i( I r » .t I 'I I 17fi o.v Tin-: ('Aim and off. troos. She had noticed, however, wlien sh(; came in, liearinijf a sudden rush in the tree tops, and then, Avith no more Avarnini^, the s(|uall hroke. In an instant th(; tents Aver(^ uprooted. In liei* terror of thunder and lii^htninL»' slur made a wihl elVort, and, catchiui^' hers as it Avas ilyini»' aAvay, Avra])pe(l it round her as she sat upon lier hed. 7VII the oth(;r tents, the l)edclotlics, and our ch)tlu's were flying across tlic ishmd hel'ore the tornado (i'oi'tunately in the direction of tlie Avoods and not tlie water), Avith the matter-of-fact Avoman after tliem, full tear, hlowing- lik(^ mad on tlie i>'reen tin liorn for the ij;'uides to come hack. Sh(5 had fouiul an interest at last. Of the camp nothinj^ remaiiuHl hut the liali- charred locrs of the fire, aaIucIi had heen extini'iiished in a few seconds hy the deluge oi' rain, Jiiul the- i)ots and pans, Avhicli Avere going to he used for frying tlu^ iish. The jiretty girl Avas a pretty spectacle Avhen the storm suddenly dropped, and Ave put hack across the lake to the summons of the horn ; the smart starched shirt, in Avliich she had looked such a jiicture, had received the runnings of her hlue yacliting jacket and the tent. The half-hrced got there as soon as Ave did, and at once hegan re2)airing damages, Avhicli took the line, as Ave afterAvards discovered, of stealing a hlanket from each of our heds, as soon as they Avere dry, to add them to the pretty girl's. Her grace and golden hair had taken him hy storm. We returned to our lishing, and the storm seemed to have cleared the !l !■'• no 111, thou, [n an rov of t, and, pod it ; oth(;r ilyini,- .tely in ), with I tear, for tho n'cst at 10 lialf- o'liisliod lio pots in*;* tlio when IV across smart such a or hluc I, and at the lino, hhinkot dry, to Id o-oUlen [d to our ired the TROITT LAKE, AND CAMPING-OUT IN CANADA. 177 watov as woll as th(' air, for almost immcdiatoly cam(> an ahni«^lvty tut^ tliat hr()k(^ tho common sovonty-fivo-cont rod T was usinf];', liko a straw, lint I had takon tlio precaution of hitcliiajj;' th(^ lino round ovory joint oC tho rod, for I know what [)owor('ul iisli th(H*o wore; in th(^ lak(s so I was ahlo to stick to my fish and play him ; and al'tor h(5 had towod th(» boat round for a fow minutos in came* Master Jilack ]?ass, a six-poundor, lookini** for all tho world like a hi^' sclmappor, hut for his colour. Thou canio another and another not so larj^o to one or otluM" rod, and w<5 pulled hack early to our island, so as to land in time for supper tho finest delicacy in Wir world — a hlack hass fresh from th(^ water. What a supi)er wc; had that niL,^ht ! T]m half-hrecd cooked fish hotter than any hotel cook in tho United States ; it was like (^atin^ flakes of cream flavoured with turhot, and fried to perfection in hreadcrumhs. Th(» nautical man frii>'hten(Ml us with his carrying capacity. W(^ felt serious appr(di(nisions for his safety, till the strain was reliov(;d after su])per hy his standini^ so close to th(; fire to dry his wot clothes that tho whitoy-hi'own tAvood coat, Avhicli m as his spc^cial prid(» and our nii^htmaro, began to broil, and f(dl in flakes oil' his hack. Onc(; more wore wo dependent on our sludi^c; lamp. TIk^ other guide did not got back with tho candles till next morning. "Wo wore clover about our morning dip ; wo light(!d a big fire by tho water's edge before we jumped in, 12 I *i 1 1 y ii u r I- ■y ' :i i 1 . Ti H tfUt i ^ i— jj-. 178 O.V THE CARS AND OFF. and dried oursclvos and dressed on the lee side of it. A six o'clock l)ath on a September mornini^ is cold work. AVe had another delicious meal oil' th(^ hass (Fried >\ itli salt pork — I don't know what Ave should liave done Avithout the salt pork and the half-breed), and then w(Mit off to shoot the rapid into a smaller lake, the river just above and below being a famous ))ass ground ; and Ave Avere roAvarded, thougli I had only a hazel-pole to replace my broken rod. In the nTternoon it occurred to us that avo should like a change of fare. We gentlemen Avere alarmed at the supplies of meat running out, and th(i jiretty girl had exhausted all the novels she had brought to r(}ad Avhile she A\'as fishing, and the matter-of-fact Avoman thought camping such, rot, so Ave packed oif the other guide back for more meat, carnal and in- tellectual. As he had onlv iust returned I'roni the toAvnship Ave suggested that the half-breed should go in his placo — but he objected. Twelve miles Avas nothing to him, and a night in North Bay as much joy and dissipation as a night in London to a Scotchman. We meauAvhile thought Ave Avould kill som(* of the spriice-grouse Avhicli had been described to us as so numerous and so obliging ; and, in accordance A\ith instructions, landed on the ojijjosite side of the lake, and took the lumberman's trail to a small lake a couple of miles tlirough the AAOods. But Avc saAV no grouse — Ave hardly exjx^cted to, for without a dog one is helpless ; and the dogs had all gone Avith Mr. Jessop to the Toronto Fair ; but when of it. ^ cold bass 4ioul' to briui;- Iiis own do^-s up in tiie nii^ht, so as to start at dawn. Dawn came, and our friend — one of th(^ bU*aclied- beanhMl men one mei^ts in the c()h)nies — exj)lain(Ml tliat [ must not write anytluni»' al)()ut i\u\ episocU; till we i;()t back to h]ni»laiul, because we wer(> about to break tlu^ law in three ways, lies would like us to shoot a moose, tlu; iinest i^'ame in these woods, but it was against the law to shoot a moose; at all in Ontario for a lived ])eriod, till their number j^ot up a little; secondly, the season had not bei^'iin ; and, thirdly, it was not leg'al to drive deer down to the wat(H* to l)e shot, as he intended to do, so as to jjjive us a good day's sport. But in the backwoods, when the sport of the country was to be shown to strant^ers from distant parts, none of these objections seemed to siLj-nifv much. Our J'riend undertook to work the dous himself. We were 2)osted in tAvo divisions — I, with Charles and the half-breed, on a berry-thicketed peninsula ; Captain ]M and the })retty i^irl on an island oil" the shore. I tried to bei^uile the time by learniuii,' the names of tin* various berries round our ambush hoots, nd his ^ local of our ,) cssop itality, o as to •achcMl- ])laiiuMl («piso(lt; V about like us Otis, Imt : all ill f ij;-ot up ; and, to the n to i^ivo Is, when rani^ers seeiiK^il himsell'. Charles ;ninsula ; dand oiV learniui;' • anihush Th'orr LAKf:, and (W.MriNC-our i\ r.i.v,i/>.i. IHI — tlic! blue, red, and whiter koliusli 1)ern'es, tiie oh'ctric-hlucr Ixdladonna herries, tlie ])ear berries, the nanny berries, tli(» tiny chock cherries (so called I'rom tlic'ir cliokinij^, slo(r-like ellect on tlie throat), \\\v little red winter-j^reen ])erries (so invaluable medicinally), the raspberries, blackberries, dew- berries, doi^wood berries, ])i' i '■ m ^ 1 « i t"' i< s*^ ' I I; IH2 <>\ rnr. ci/rs .i,\7i i)rr (he slorv of Ihr IimII' iMcnl's (lisj inoMS(<-( inM(i, il \v:is so riiijoiis. \\ lirii il i;o( williin HI'In v.inls ol' liiin he \v;is so I rin|i((>ii(.(| 11>m1 \w lircd mixI missed jl. N(<\l <|jiv lir \{A{\ llir slorv to Mil «)ld l);H'k\\oodsiii,ni. ( live mo llio cmII, w.'is tlio roplv. Mo l;;ivo il "Oh. lluirN ojisily oxpl.-iiiiod ; it is m Imll-mooso's <'li;illoiii;o io (inhj, o\ or M I'omMlo uliioli von Inivo imilMlod." I. Il(« I ni.'Hlo I II (M \r I linii** SM w i( WIhmi liliMinl l nearest, point lor the Stcfd Kiver, (here wms no hot.el m,( mII. Schreihei', whioh was M. (livisionM.I point, Iim(I two or three hotels, hnt wms inland I'rom (Jic lake, and had no Imjiious trout river. i I M ii !t .( \ i 4 A 1 K.'! 184 ON THE CARS AXD OFF. ¥■ Then a Hudson's Buy a^(Mit told mc that he hclicvt'd tliat tlicrc was a hotel at rcniiisula IJay, rii^^ht on Lake Superior, and tliat the Monro Iliver, famous For its jji'ii^^antic trout, was only lour miles aloiii*' the line, and tlien^l'ore accessi])le hy tlu; hand car. I AV^rote to the postmaster of Peninsula, a town which consists of a railway station, a store; and post- ollice comhined, a hotel, aiul a washerwoman, to ask him il' there was a hotel, and if so to eni-au'c; rooms lor us — our jiarty consisting; of niysell', my wife, iny little hoy, the pretty *^[v\, and Captain M . I got a letter i'roni tlu; hotel j)roprietor, a very modest letter, in Avhich lu; said that ho never thoui^ht ol' accommodating tourists, that his hotel was a vcny liumhle all'air which he had opened for the accommo- dation of train hands, hut that it Avas clean, and that if we Avould jiut up Avith hardships he Avould he glad to take us, and that Ik; would charge us a dollar a day. After Ave had heen there a day or two I told him he ought to have charged us tAVo. It Avas a plain tAVo-storied Avooden house, clean as a ncAV pin ; and an enormous IrisliAvoman, Avho acted as cook and housekeeper, really Avas very motherly and ohliging. It is true that the supply of meat Avas oi)en to chance. One day there Avas an accident on the main line, hetAvcen Port Arthur and Peninsula, and for the next day or tAvo canned meat and cahhage and hacon AA'as all Ave got, Avlien \\c did not acquit ourselves creditahly Avitli the rods. But after the first day Ave irot all the fish Ave Avanted. • ', ]*'■ o.v Tf/r: sf/o/tf:s or lake f^rPEninn. iHr> T went to Peninsula I'or the lake lisliinu;. T1u« bii; lake trout, wliicli run up to I'oi'ty pounds wcinlit, conu^ into i\w shallow water towards tlu^ vmX of tli(^ Fall, aiul then the trollini^ season Ix'i'ins. ]Uit \ found that though Veniusula has a beautiful land- locked harbour, there was not a siiii^le boat in the plac(^ However, two Indians, with i^'ood canoes, ii;r(;at sportsmen, were reported to have; erected their tepees at the mouth of the Monro liiver, five or six miles away ; and, takini"' a rifle on the chance of si«^htini^' one of the bears which had come down to tlu^ laki; shores for tlui b(;rry harvest, we started oil" on the hand car. When W(! reached th(5 ratlun* inaccessible spot at which the river runs into Gitclu^ Gunuie — the ])ig', dark, wild lake — we found only bones and ashes ; the Indians had moved on. We W(}re momentarily relieved in our clia<^rin by findinip the fresh trail of a bear, which had been riotini;' in a splendid patch of wild goosebcirries — sweet and tasty, and almost as dark as a Morella cherry. But w(5 coidd not find Bruin, so wo tramped wearily back to Peninsula to send a tcleg-ram to Port Cokhvell to get one of the trolling fleet there, fine big sail-boats, to come round to Peninsula and take us out every day while wc were there. When Ave went to the station-master to ask him to telegrajih to Port Coldwell (eleven miles off — one of the great fishing stations of Lake Superior for the lake trout season), it was about sundoAvn. 1 1 :' I ! >» ■ I Hi; n.\ /•///•; ('Ai{s AM) orr " What do \()ii want ii bout for ? " he asked ; ** why don't ,V()ii i;'() down to the Dmidas Creek ? It's only a ([iiarter of a iiiih' down the h-ack, and the I'oadsnuiii catches beauties there sometimes." " Will they rise to a lly r " "lie uses notiiing" else — tholl^'h folks take them with a j^russliopper ([uite often." 'Die grasshoppers had most of them i^one to l)ed, hut we manai^-ed to catch a few hy j)attini;' them with a stick ami pickini;' them up while they wer(5 d took fl and white ill th stuiuuMl, and we took sonu' reu and wnite llies, tlie oiu's commonlv sold at the Hudson's Jiav Stores on the nortli sliore ol' Lake Supei'ior. The creek crossed the line, so we could not miss it. \V(^ could either i^o up or down, hut the big iisli hiy umler the waterfalls. The Lake Superior waterfall is a s[)ecies all to itself. There is no Niagara- 1 ike imj)act of a mass of water h'apini;' over ;. precipice. The waterfall is over a slopiuijf boulder. Things run lars^-e a])out Lake Superior — the lake itself in leni^th, breadth, and depth, and the l)oulders which surrouml it arc on a par in this respect. One sees boulders of tlii^ Lrij^ht red stone, characteristic of the north shore, fifty or sixty feet loni^*, twenty or thirty feet throui^h. Evt y now aiul then one of these i^'(;ts jammed leni^thways in the slopini^ l)ed of a creek, and thc^ water rushes over it like a big* sheet of glass, into a hole two or three feet deep below the lower end, usually hemmed in more or less with smalhn' boulders. •f I. wl\y only llicm l)('d, tluMll S, tlio res oil I miss i<;' lish all to mass tall is about I'cadtli, it arc ol' th(^ shore, voiiirli. unmed lul tli(^ into a br end, lulders. cr, a O f ' 1 ,/ ON THE SlIOHES OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 187 The creeks are in most places tliickly iTiiii^tHl with small trees, which add to the aiii^ler's task sev(;rely. We went down stream till we came; to just such a pool, with a bi<^ rock jutting- out into the stream on one side ot* it, I'rcmi which one could throw a fly — an utter impossihility ^'rom tin; hanks themselves, which formed a regular brake. We lislied steadily lor a])out an hour and caught nothing ; L climlxul uj) on to a ledge; of rocks above us, whicli commanded a view oi' the lake, to drink in the glorious prospcict. 1 had seen few pieces of scenery like this. In front of us was the beautiful island-studded harl)our or bay of Peninsula, Avith the vast expanse oi Lake Supcnior bc^yond ; on my left lay the big cape, nearly surroundcnl by water, which giv(;s the place its name, and Avhicli once had a busy town linden" its shadow. On my right was a long line; of lofty islands horizoning the sunset, and the crimson glow with its warm light was imparting an unearthly beauty to the sea of gigantic red boulders, which had every cranny hlled Avith Avild cherry or blue- beri'y bushes — such blueberries as I never saw before, as large as grapes, and seeming to spring straight out of th(^ moss, so little stem or leaf had they. The; lierce gales of Lake Superior dAA^arf every tree and plant, and this seems to give increased vigour to the fruit. The blueberries were so thick and so gmpe- like in their fecundity of juice that the ladies could not go to the; trout pool without staining their skirts. f i f ' .1 W M 4^ 'I -^ Mi H ^'. ■! 188 ON T!Ti: CARS ANP OFF. 'If, and I seriously thought of starting a factory for blueberry wine to compete against the not very brilliant (grape) wine of Niagara. Poetising over the scenery was not Avithout result, for Avalking along to a ledge of the rock that com- manded a view of the creek just below the waterfall where the others were fishing, I saw a sight to make an angler's heart beat a tattoo. Where the deeper water met the shallow, clearly outlined, even with the fading light in the clear, gravel-bottomed stream were a pair of gigantic brook trout, the most prized fish, after Scotch salmon, which swim in fresh water. I hastily slid down the embankment to my rod. The others had quitted in disgust the jutting boulder below the waterfall ; I stealthily occujiied it, dreading a shout of excitement and an invasion from them. But they had not seen the monsters. The stream was strong enough for there to be no fear of the fly sinking, and I had a mere stick of a rod, with no reel, and quite likely to break at the first severe strain. It only cost twenty-five cents at the Peninsula store and post-office. We had come there, it must be remembered, for lake fishing, to troll with sea-trolls for the mighty thirty and forty-pouiider lake trout, who keep fifty and sixty feet down. We had only fallen back on this creek because there was no boat at Peninsula. To make as sure as I could of not losing my fish, if I managed to hook one of these monster brook trout which looked every ounce of three pounds, I .1 > ' I ON THE S/fORi:S OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 189 ^S ii«id, as I iiieiitionod, knotted my line firmly round each of tlni three pieces of my rod, prefcrrinj;^' not to trust tlie miserable little brass rings let into its cheap cane. The trout lay nearly thirty feet farther down tli(; stream than my rock. I had al)out fift(?en feet of line at tlie end of my rod, and started operations by holding the rod nearly perpendicularly, and then sloped and stretched it more and more as the swift current swept the fly down to the trout. There; were so many little eddies and currents from the rocks in the stream that I had to make a good many casts l)efore I saw the exact place to drop the lly for it to drift riglit on to the lish ; and they would not chase it. Either they were sluggish (the weather was getting cold and the season nearly expired, for breeding time was approaching) or else it was too dark for tiie lish to see. I was just getting desperate when I made an unusually successful cast. The fly got caught in a nice little ripple Avhich ran right over where tlie big trout lay, dark, and fat as a carp. Bob, l)ob, bob, riglit up to his nose, lie gave a lazy snap at it, and 1 struck at that moment, for he didn't look as il' he cared enough for it to take much troul)le about it. I felt as if I had had a galvanic shock. There were too many roots and boulders to let him have his head and tie the line up in a knot, so I held his head up as one holds a stumbling horse, trusting to Providence that the wretched twenty-five-ccnt rod . i f\ I .11 I «i I r ■; ! !^ I II 190 ON THE CARS AND OFF. \\ n i^ ]' 1\ i I would stand the strain. It bent like a mole-trap, but it did not give way for many a day afterwards. "M , M !" I shouted, "the landing-net; I've got a whacking fish on." " Got a snag ! " he called out scornfully. But he came, and fairly screamed with excitement when he saw wliat a beautv I had towins: the line round the po< w'^h its nose up on the surface of the water, wli h it was lashing into ripples and foam, showing the silver of its sides and crimson tint of its bellv, as well as its dark, strong back. It was a game fish, but the tackle stood the strain. The rod I have described, and the line was reallv too thick for throAving a fly captivatingly, but it was all I could raise in a place that devoted itself to lake fishing. Round and round the pool that stat(»ly fish steamed, towing my line and flogging the water Avith his strong tail ; but I held him up, prevcMiting him from fouling the line in a snag, and gradually he got more exhausted and I was able to work him into a little bay behind the rock on which I stood, where Captain M slipped the landing-net under him. He was one of th(* i^randest brook trout I have ever seen. A couple of inches more and he would have been two feet long, and when we got home and weighed him, though he was a little bit out of condition, for it was so late in the season, he scaled over four pounds, so deep in th(5 belly was he. His flesh Avas a beautiful, rich salmon colour, and he shoAVcd all the colours of the rainboAV on his belly Avhen he Avas first caught. i'^ ON Tni: SHORES OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 191 , ,1 P My fly Avas uninjured, for I had hookod him through tho cartilage of the upper lip ; so as soon as he was landed and hauled up the hank in our excite- ment lest he should slip hack into the water, I threw out my line for his mate?, a somewhat smaller fish, which had darted away down stream when h(^ was caught, hut which had come; hack to look for him when the water got quieter, while we were despatch- ing him on the hank, as I could see hy the dim outline at tli(5 edge of the shalloAvs, in the grey light of the dusk so rajiidly changing to night. This fish, perhaj)s l)ecause it Avas alone noAV, or perhaps hecause it was growing darker, was not so suspicious, and charging the flv as it drifted towards it, swallowed not. ' it holdly, and then we had another terrific tussle. It was lucky for me that the fish was well-hooked, for I couldn't see so well what it was doincj and didn't handle it particularly well, and it managed to twist the line round a hranch with a hroken twig that overhung the water. But Captain M , pulling out the hig knife which, sailor-like, he carried, cut the hranch away, and the fish had pretty well exhausted itself in its efi'orts to get a^A av when hitched up to the hranch, so it was fairly plain sailing afterwards. The fish scaled ahout tAVo and a half 2)ounds, and was not so handsomely marked as the other. I have heen talking ahout them as if the hig handsome fish was the male, and the small one the female, l)iit as a natural history fact I am not quite certain that the rev(?rs(» is not the case. n V 'W 111; I K.1 I V,)2 ON TIIE CARS AND OFF. '^l Tliat iiij^lit witli thoso, U\o hvj^ llsli — it. was too (lark to ij^o on iisliinj^ any mon^ — wc (mjoycd qnit(> a llonian trinm])li as wc. iWvd up past ihv railway station and tho ])ost-ofnc(i stovo to the hotel kitchen to scalo oni' prizc^s, and th(\y niadc^ a very acccptahlo addition to tlic canned meat, wliich Avas tlu; corollary of tho railway accident. The next day, as in duty hound, w(» returned to our creelv, nioruin<^ and afttu'uoon, and caui^lit a lew insii>'niricant trout, till eveniui^ approached, avIkmi once more the hijj^ fish hecjan to come up stream. T dare say Ave saw six or (Ui^lit that evenincj and caui»'ht thr(v\ and so it was every eveninii* — tAvo or three lish running* from a pound and a half to four ])()ur.{ls. I iii'ver caught such a splendid averaj^e. Afinr the third day Ave learned that for some ])articular r(Mison tln^ ])articular hour to fish this [)articular crec^k at this particular season of the yc^ar Avas sunset, and dcA'oted ourseh^es to the other enjoy- ments of th(» place durinu; the day. One deli<^htful ranihle wns to folloAV the creek up toAvards its far- aAvay source in tlu^ hills, past numhers of the qu(»er houkhn'-Avatert'alls, over a kind of rock-strcAvn Scotch moor, in Avhicli th(^ j.^ra])e-likc (hvarf hlueherry, and Avild cherx'i(*s and hi<»:h-hush cranhcrries flourished round deep, delicious pools of running water fit for a Xaiad, and harhouring some small trout. Another, along the railroad track, led to the famous ^[onro Creek or EiA-er, Avitli its magnificent trestle hridge, the largest timher hridge in Canada except 5 too \iv a Iway chon ital)l(*' )llavy khI to a t'(HV o; and two ov ,0 four i* some ,li this LO y(^av cnjoy- Uhti'ul its far- qiioor Scotch I'y, and ^irishod it fov a [famous trestU^ except ON rin: s/f(nn:s of lakh Hrrr.nion. vx\ the lu'd Sucker ti'estk;. TJiis Monro Creek is, after the Ne|)iii'()v and \hi^ Steed liiver, tlie most renowned trout river tliat runs into Lake Superioi' from tlie nor til si jore. It is famous for the hiu? trout aI)ovc its first fall, hut as we could eat eh more than we could eat in a little ereek a (|iiartei' of a mile from h — the monsters dcscrihcd ahwsc — w(^ saw no ome ffood in u'oini'' fonr miles fni'thcr There is a hii;' soi't of ,i;'ori;(' hci-c ahout a mile wide, which I nev(M* saw rivalled for wild fruit. It was here that we cauKMipon Ihc iin|)ai'alleled patch of lusci(>us, ci'imson wild i;'o(ts('l)('i-i'iv,rt of common — an open heath, once covcn-ed Avith forest, of^en frcqnented hy jKirtridii^es. We tramjx'd over this Avith a do<]f and s^uns, hnt the partridi^es Avere not on vicAV. lIoAvever, a])ont a mil(» aAvav. hidden in a AA'ood, Ave came upon a most d(dii»'htfu] lake, a shalloAV, reedy stretch of Avat(»r a coiii)le of miles lonijf, Avooded all round. KnoAvini^' that its shalloAV Avaters Avould he Avarmer than the icy d(*]itlis of Lake Superior, and havini,^ no l)ath in tlu^ hotel, we stripped and hathed at a place AA'here there Avas a little island Avith sunny patches of smooth ston(» not many yards from shore. The interveninij^ channel, picturesque Avith hulrushes, Avas of a depth in A\hic]i one could just SAvim, or mi^ht Avade on the soft niiul. screaming Avith laughter \>lien one seemed sink in i^ too deep ; and once out on the island one lay on tlte % was so \), and lashiui;' Jlaiitic IS *'•.'. nn . auiA'ry sup • ' AN(iLi:i{S' HOTELS. \W had a littlo pi'ivato sittiii^'-i-oom iii)stair.s — a pretty littlo room, very much of tlic [)liisli and all)um onhu*, kindly vacat(ul for us l)y tho wil'c of tli(» old Camhridi;'t> man who served in tiu' store. Tli(\v lived in thi^ iiotol. Ilo was a nice; little fellow, as haj)py as the day was loni;. it was the old story. 1I(^ had invested liis mon(\v directly lu^ cami^ out, without waitinuf to learn the A Ji C of tlu; country, and h)st it all. Then h(^ married. Tlu^ store in which he served kept everythinijf, fnmi tinned peas to firearms, and lak(5-trout flies to slop trous(«rs for half-converted Indians. It Ixdoni^^ed to a Yorkshire- man nameil llarrv Wilson, most invaluahh^ to that deserted locality for he hroui^ht ])lenty of Yorkshire grit and resourcefulness Avith him. "When we were; there he was planning an importation of hoats and guides, to develop the trout fishinjjf and camping- out facilities of this delightful place, with its heautiful harbour encircled by the lofty peninsula which gives it its name. There was somiitimes a considerable; flavour of camping out al)out our food arrangements. A little forgetfulness on the part of the l)utclier (with only one train a day), or a temporary sto])page on the line, threw us back on the procijeds of our fishing, baccm, canned goods, and gr(;ens. The climate of the north shore of Lake Superior seems very much adapted to the cultivation of the cabbage ; and really nobody could be got to pick or even to eat the wild fruit, it was such a drug. However, every one con- 'p ■i lli! 1-. 200 o.v Tin-: CARS .\\n off. noctod with ihv hotol Avas so iiico, and so apoloi^etic, wIkmi tliosci littl<> confrctciirps happened that they only s(^om('d liKo jokes, and thoro was ahvays a suporfluity ol* |)icl\l(\s and sanccs, at any rate. Twic(i a dav iho train hands camo in for a raeal, from t]i() trains iioini;' t;ast and Avest. W(^ wore ahvays introdncu^l to thoin by th(^ hig* cook — JMr. and Mrs. Shidon fi'oni London, Mr, Jones, Mr. Williams, Mr. Smith, and Mr. JiroAvn. They often siiook hands, and tluvy had never waslnnl ; but as they had to ])ass your food to you, it was as Avell to get acclimatised to the dirt as soon as |,v)ssil)le ; and they were generally very 2)olite and quic^t. Besides thes(i there ^ymv, several train hands connected A\'ith the place, for a i^ood deal of shuntini^ and so on is done at Peninsula. One of these presented quite a sad and interesting' case. Like the great Dean of St. Patrick's, he Avas touched in the upper story lirst. No one kncAV his name ; he did not knoAV it himself. He Avas generally knoAvn as McGinty, because the popular song- of that day on the American side had a chorus beginning " Down went McGinty to the bottom of the sea ; And he must be very wet, For they'vo never found him yet," etc., etc. McGinty Avas a great, big man ; a handsome felloAV, too, but for the lost look in his eyes, and Avith a face rather abo\ e his present station. He lived all by himself — the only denizen of the deserted Aillage %^^' Tn ax(;l/:rs' hotels. 201 i'cUow, \\\\\\ a led all lillage ol' shacks, down hy tli(; Iak(vsido, which had formed the construction camp in the; old evil days. McGinty i^cncrally scat(;d himscll' hy \\iv ])r('tty i;irl. il(! was always (^llusivtdy polite, and ])i'(vss('d licr to take everything' on the tahh^ without rofei-enco to what slie was eatini^ at the time. Tor instance, Avliih^ she was doini;' justic(5 to one oi' the I'lorious hrook trout we used to catch uy) in th(; Dinuhis Creek, lie ^vould say : "Won't you have some strnw- herry jam, tliank you ? " She wouhl re])r(\ss a smile, and say, " No, tliank you ; I liaven't iinished miy fish yet." " Won't you have some pickles, tliank you ? " (lie always add(Hl " Thank you " at the end of every question or olTer.) "No, thank you." And so he Avoidd i^o through every " fixing " which had been put on the table. And Jiis hands would have dirtied a sweep's. He dis2)layed the same eagerness when a travelling photographer came to take the hotel and all that therein were. Tlien his local pride became intense^ Peninsula had, in those days, the proud distinction of being the only place on the whole north shore where there was a horse ; and McGinty was ([uite resolved that the horse should be the centre of the photograph. liut an unexpected difficulty arose. The mare — for the only horse was a mare — under- stood no laniiuai-e but Finnish. The man who had had charge of ner ever since she understood the value J'? ;. I i', ''■3.: 202 ON THE CARS AND OFF. of s]irocli was a "Finn, and ho had i?ono away to tho Toi'oiito Fair, in the 1'aco of tlio fact that he did not un(l(^rstand any more Enp^lish tlian tho maro. Ad(li'oss(Hl in an nnfamiliav and liarharous toni^iio sli(* wonkl not stir, hut slio offorod no n^sistanco when Mc(iintv hvoncrlit out tlio cart to lun* and harnossod \\VY up, and then she moved k>isuroly up to tho i'ront of tho hot(»l and halted of her own accord. But McGinty woukl not h'avi^ anythinij^ to chance. So he ti(Hl his much-soihul nnl liand kerchief, spotted witli faded white, round her nt^ck, and passini:^ his arm throusi-h it — lie was a very tall man — stood on s^uard until the pliotoiii^ra])h should he taken. The photoi^raph, as I have it in my mind's eye, re])r(^sents a dapper, little, two-storied, wooden hotel, witli the halcony over the porch tillcHl with a i)arty of l^uji^lish, hronzed and shahhied hy years of con- tinuous travel in .Japan and China, Canada and the United States ; while down helow ai'(^ i»rouped the hotel stalf, and the people from the store, and tho train hands, and the only other inhahitant — a luny old \vasherAvoman — and in front ol' all, the mare that could only undero.tand Finnish, Avith McGinty's arms and liandk(*rcliief round her neck, and a sort of triumphal wreath of dwarf wild Yiri»inia creeper round the cart. The hroken hottles and empty cans on the sandy strand round the hotel Jo iu)t come out in the i)liotog'raph, excellently taken hy Mr. Fordo of AMiite lliver, whose photographs of Lake Superior are Avell knowu now. ANGLERS' HOTELS. 203 This natural sandy strand was all thorc^ was by way of a road at Peninsula. Tlio railway track was the only scratch on the face of the wilderness ; and riii;ht down to it, on each side, came the low hills covered with their wealth of wild fruit, Jind the vast l)ou[ders of red sandston(^ fifty or sixty feet lon£^, Avith which the wild north shore of Lake Superior is strewn. Only down by the shore in the deserted con- struction camp tlien^ was a road, knee deep and more in dripping' grass, bordered by deserted Chinamen's houses, with rats llyin*^ over them in hot chase. The pretty girl always expected to find a dead family in one of them. Some day McGinty will be found dead in one of them, and there will be a r{;v(;rent and tender hush at the tdhh d'hote in the little Avooden hotel, whcr(> he was so much in evidence, — the talde iPltote served on a bed-sheet by way of a table- cloth ; the tible cVhute at which no milk was ever drunk that came not from the- tin cow. Death leaves such a terrible gap in a little republic like this, where, on the shores of the great lake, the station-master and his wife, the hotel-keeper and his cook, the store- keei)er, the storekec^per's assistant and his wife, the train hands, including McGinty, and the luny washer- woman, with an occasional drummer, or a globe- trotting English gentleman, live in Utopian affection and equality. I .■ \ I 1 I i- # # # » An easy six lioiu's' railway journey carried us from ^O-l ON THE CARS AND OFF. 11 ■ ■■■•' Peninsula to Nepigon ; but the buildini? of this bit of the line was the most stupendous undertakini;' the onijjineers had to tackle. Portions of it cost as much as S750,()0() a mile. The only practicable route to tako was to follow the lake, and in places it was overhung by slieer precipices, Avhich had to be traversed by tunnelling, or by building up viaducts out of the lake, or blasting a ledge along the face of the rock. It is said that a contractor made* a fortune here by toppling rocks into the lake. No such easy solution had presented itself to (hither of the high contracting parties while the contract was being made. To give angther idea of the costli- ness it may be mentioned that there is a wooden "trestle " (the famous " Red 8ucker "), more than a mile long and ever so high, close to Peninsula. The scenery here is magnificent. The great lake is almost always in sight ; sometimes right at the foot of the line. The colour of the rocks is splendid, and there are some fine bold sweeps like Jackfish Bay, Avhile the long, narrow, tree-girt harbour of Port Coldwcll has often a fieet of the big, poAverful, half-decked sailing boats which do the deep-sea fishing on Lake Superior. Before the train reaches Nepigon station, it strikes inland and follows the east shore of Nepigon Bay, a grand stretch of water cut ofl:' from the lake by a chain of islands. What fisherman is there on this continent avIio has not heard of Nepigon ? — Nepigon and its mighty i ^^ T' ANGLERS' HOTELS •205 trout ? But how many havo been deterred hy th(^ difficulty ol" getting; there ! — the thirty odd mik's of paddlinuj up stream and portagini^, the camping out when you get there, the laying in of huge; supplies, and the trusting to sulky Indians to take you and your stores tliere. It takes two days to get up from Nepigon station on the Canadian Pacific liailway to Xepigon Lak(% even when Mr. Mac , the obliging storekcH^per, who deals in Indians, has them awaiting your arrival ; and sometimes you have to Avait for them t^^'o days or more. The anglers for N(;pigon Lak(% Avlio reached the station at the samc^ time as ourselves, were delayed even longer than this, he;- cause the Indians were liaymaking, arid, after their havmakiim' A\'as done, felt too lazy to do any more W(n'k. And the particularly aggravating j)art of the matter was that they had pitched their teepes in the township close to Mr. Mac 's store, and were hanging about all day. Even Mr. Mac , who had far more influence with them than the Hudson's Bay agent, could do absolutely nothing. There Avas once an Episcopalian mission up at the lake, but the missionary has noAV sought ease and retir(Mnent at the other Nepigon thirty miles beloAV, AvluM'e he has qidte a handsome litth^ church and a vicarage in as beautiful a spot as eye could Avant, Avith tlie local AvasherAvoman for a neighboiu*, and a team of six dogs, half Esquimaux, to draAV him in th(^ Avinter. Plenty of people have extolled tiu' (Iclights of tie I in h 206 ON THE CARS AND OFF. Nepigon Lake, the inaccessible. I am only writing of the Nepigon which is as accessible as Winnipeg, and has its fair share of attractions. To be precise there are three; Nepigons — the vast lake teeming Avith fish and still frequented by Indians, the noble river which conveys its watcu's to Lake Superior, and the little town which has R2)rung up round the Canadian Pacific Railway station. At this last we determined to take up our q ..arters, and found a hotel, far beyond the average of the great West, very like the little inns one finds in Great Britain, in remote spots famed for their fishing : clean, nicely furnished, and with very fair food and all kinds of drinks. The drawbacks were the land- lord's wife, whose ajipearance and manners smacked of Shadwell, and the fact that, as usual in the West, there was only one dining-room for you and the train hands and tin? casual tramp. The former did not signify much as you always consulted the barman for anything you wanted — he being the moving spirit of the place — and you got used to the latter. The main trouble about the landlady was that she had a querulous little child, and always expected her patrons to give it anything it cried for, from a hundred-guinea watch downwards. She hated me, because I would not let my little boy be deprived of his oAvn boats when the hotel baby was squalling for them. ( , ^6' ■ . I NUL ERfi' 170 TKLR. 207 But the hotel (which is ri<^ht opposite a station on the Canadian Pacific Railway) was a place where you could make yourself as comfortable as you liked. The entrance hall, for instance;, which had a huge stove, was a very pk;asant place to sit in after dinner, fighting over again the fishy battles of the day. And the stove had to l)c lighted every night, though it was only Septembtu*. The barman, it is true, came out and sat with the guests, both ladies and gentlemen; but he Avas a very nice fellow, quite an addition to tlic ])arty, and his presence was entirely de re;/le in the democratic west. But though the nights were cold. Captain M , who is a martyr to asthma, enjoyed almost complete immunity from his complaint. There must have been something very virtuous about the air, for the place was neither very high nor very dry. Its scenery was glorious. If you walked a mile up the river and stood upon the Canadian Pacific Railway bridge over it, the prospect was enchanting. Looking upward one saw the broad reach of the river known as Lake Helen, six or seven miles long, wooded to the very edge, and with cape; retreating behind cape like that procession of mighty Cornish headlands west of Tintagel. Pull of monster trout too is this so-called lake. Here on its banks, under the patronage of the vicarage and the laundry, is where the railway station and hotel skould stand, for starting here would save two miles B •JOS O.V THE CARS AXD OFF. ■' i rowiiii*- and a rapid that has to he ])()i'tan'('d. At present the station and liotcl arc a mile away from (»V('rytliinjj^, dropped into the mid(Ue of the busli " ])romisciious-like." 'Vhv prospect is even liner, looking- down the nohle river known as Nepi^on Hay, a\ ith its recnly islands and its l)ackij^round of i>'ran(l red elilfs and the peculiar flat-topped forested mountains of tin* Lake Superior district, whicli remind one of tlie Derhvshire "Cakes o' bread." If you want speckled trout, i^'o to Lak(^ Helen ; if vou A\'ant the monster lak(? trout, vou Avill have to chart(*r one of the staunch half-decked boats used l)y the hshernuni, and ij^o down to Lake Su])erior, itself a ijfood many miles l)elow. White fish, ])ereh, and sfmie speckled trout are the deniziMis of Nei)ii;'on Bav. Jint there are other attiactions b(\si(les fishin^/^- H O 03 V) O Q X en H Q < > 2 O I) 11 oi til ill 1)1" of sti ji fis] tlu me Do |)0.S tJie AxnLi:h'S' noTiirs. •_'()',» fiml hici'oi^lyphics said to hiiV(^ Ihmmi moul led in the sumo way as tlicii* pipes. Wo us(mI to row or sail down under these dark liistoric dill's, tvollin^^ out a bait, and if tlie wind lia})pened to be blowing a squall np stream we used to thank our stars wo had Captain M with us, for it made a vory ui?ly rip sonu^thini;' like tlie one at Vancouver, when the tide is cominu,' in. My princij)al informant on tho lliawatlia subject was tho local storekeo])er, who supplies Indians, tisii-hooks, j^rocorics, and so on. Ho lent mo any books I wanted, llo took in all tho loadint? American magazines, and a good few i)apors. Hero, as every where on tho exquisite Jiorth shore of Lake Superior, the Avild fruits AV(n*o h^gion in September, the Avild raspberries especially being a thing to romombor, as were the flies. W(; ran ecpial danger from devouring and being devoured whenever* wo went down to the alluvial flats below the railwav l)ridgc, Avlioro are found tho only worms in this part of tho world, near tho remains of the railwav con- struction camp. Did the constructionists introduce ;) colony of them for the benefit of all succeeding tishormen ? But I have said enough about the attractions of tlie slighted Nopigons, though I must i)aus(> to mention the Hudson's Bay post, which is also the Dominion post-office. It Mas onc(.' an imi)ortant post ; all the Indians in this part of Canada drew their supplies through it, and all the anglers for IJ. •' I ii' rM •J 10 o.v Tin: cins axd o/.v<'. Livko Ncpii^'oii started from it ; stcaincrs cjillcd at rrcciiKMit intervals, and its a^cnt had ([iiitc a fine li()iis(» l)uilt I'd liim, wliicli is still used, with a stores a few vards awav I'rom it. Tlic liousc stands in ail uni([ii(' position, on a ris(^ coniniandini;' a view of nearly the whole of Nepii,'on liay ; hut the Canadian Pacific Railway people; killed it hy trans- fcrrini^ the trade; hii^her up stream, and l)y making' it unprofital)h^ for steamers to call at the N(;pii;'on on account of the railway's superior facilities for transport. Noav it has an ai^ent at a diminished salary, and l)ut few Indians ; and its Avharl' is decayin*;', until the unwary stranc^er may chance to tread his foot throuij^h its planks, as the pretty i^'irl did. AVe heard a little scream, and found lun*, with Ikm* ankles as securely 2)inioned as if she had heen in the stocks. Her feet had f^one rig-ht throu«»'h the crumhling' planks, and as Ave approached ])y hoat Ave could see l)lack stocking' helow the plank i ni;' of the Avharf. But the ca])tive ankles Avere un- commonly neat, and the hoots Avere smart and faultlessly laced, and sIk; l)ore the pain Avithout a murmur ; and a very painful tliini^ it is to go through tin; floor until you are stopped hy your- sliins. The place might he three hundred years old as far as looks go. Adieu, queer little toAvn of Nepigon, with your old-Avorld-looking inn ; your abandoned quays ; youi' miiiihtv railAA'av bridcre : A'our noble river as state! \ i t 111 your ; your stately ,\\i;fj:/{s intTFJ.s. 21 1 •d at , t'liic X\\ a tands view t th(^ traiis- akiui;' cs for iiislicd larl' is jliauco pretty in the :li tb(« boat ankiii2,' [ro ini- 't and Ihoiit a to i»'f) > our as the St. .I(>lvn ; your t'aiiipiiiL;' Indians (lisi;iiis(Ml by civilisation ; and your prc-iiistorical rock records I It is to !)(' IioihmI that tiie time has conic wlicii you will he visited hy folks witii nior(^ eye I'oi liie ))ictiircs(|ue thaii sportsmen and druninicrs. I • (ars o hi 1 ClIAPTEll XVII. 4 LIFE ON Til CARS. ~Y IPE on the cars is an epitome of the whoh^ -'-^ jiilgrimage throiii^^h the vale of tears. You are ushered into it in a helpless sort of way at the l)eg'in- ning, hurried throui^h a kaleidoscoj)e, and finally, coming to a place Avhere the cars do not go any farther, are turned out, to he succeeded by a fresh lot. It has its humours and its discomforts — a full croj) ; l)ut on the whole it is a pretty good sort of life. AV(; felt more serious al)out l)eginning it t^ian we did al)Out beginning the larger ex2)eriences, because we had more knowknlge of good and evil than the average l)aby, who takes things pretty much as they come, if the l)ottle comes often enough. Though grown-up l)abies are much the same. We really felt quite excited as Ave steamed out of Toronto station that autumn night, for A\ e Avere going to familiarise ourseh'es A\'it]i tiie j»"reat Xorth-West, Avhich had ])een onh^ an unfulfilled dream for high hearts like La Salle's and Eromenac's. One has a choice of routes l)etAveen Toronto and Port Arthur. One can tntlnn' go up through the Muskoka country and join the main Yuv\ A\hich lies to the north ol' the great lak(% at Xortli Pay, •iVi i IDV, the bies (I as -ht, iUed ac's. and t\io lliicli Hav, o ■J w •« ■J} O ^ 2 s C/2 OS < Cd H < u o X < Hi, H u r J f I r- \-^! Tr TJFE ON THE CARS. •213 or vIhv one can go to Owen's Sound and proceed hy steamer across Lake Huron, through the famous Sault St. Marie lock, and across Lake Sujierior. The steamers are huge Clyde-huilt hoats of two or iliYca thousand tons, Avhich had their trial triji across the stormy Atlantic; and the Sault St. Marie is the finest lock in the world. Through it eventually ocean steamers will run all the way from Port Arthur and Duluth to Liverpool. But as Lake Superior is large enough to contain England, and its islands all lie close in shore, one can sec; far more of the hest lake scenery from the line, ^^'hich hugs the shore, than one can from a steamer in the Avaste of wate; '? out of sight of land. In hot weather, however, the lake route is of course much cooler than the rail, and very popular. Port Arthur, Avhere you leave the lake steamer for the cars, as they call trains on hoth sides of tlu; horder in America, reminded me forcibly of Brindisi, though they had not any of Julius CiBsar's fortifica- tions to show, and you could not buy artistic pitchers containing a firkin or so of water (at the beginning) for sixpence apiece. I think the point of likeness must be that each of them has a hotel so far above the average of the place. Port Arthur and Brindisi have a sort of Jekyll and Hyde existence ; they have inhabitants and visitors — the latter a never-failing stream, which fioAvs right through the Dead Sea without tlie smallest admixture. Only some day Thunder Cape Avill froAvn down on a great city, Avhen I''-' I: ,( ;• ' 1 I'll I "'.l V .1 'I' n 'K ""^ •J14 ON THE CARS AND OFF. tlie iin worked Bonanzas of the north shore j)our their A " SLEEPER " BY DAY. ox)l(l and silver into the strong rooms of Port Arthur l)anks. heir - > 51.: tliiir IJFE ON THE CARS. 215 Life on the cars is extremely like life on board sliip. It is difficult to understand why there should he no captain, no mysterious fooling about with the sextant at twelve noon. You feel that it is an outrage that there should be no doctor or chief engineer to amuse the passengers. There arc; generally only too many chaplains, hurrying across the continent to voyage (at about half-price) across the Pacific for the luxurious task of converting the irresponsible Jap. Life on the cars, again, is like life in a flat, or anywhere else where you pass your (lavs without much stair-climbing. You eat and drink and sleep without going off the train ; you can also get a good deal of exercise, if you hanker after it, by wandering from the saloon car — which is at once, or rather at different times, your drawing-room and your bedroom — into the dining car, or the first-class car (which means second), or the colonists' cars, in which Irish and Chinese make hideous smells. The saloon car occupies tli(; pride of the place at the rear of the train, except when there is a private car to outsAvagger it. At its tail end is the smoking-room — out of which it is impossible to keep the ladies — adjoining the car- tail, which has an iron bar fixed across the steps when the train is in motion. When there is much to see the passengers crowd the car tail and smoking- room, and there is nearly always somebody sitting on tlie steps Avitli his or her legs dangling into spac(* while the train is in full motion. It might be II i^ ( H t : %: 210 OX THE CARS AND OFF. tliouij,'lit (lani^crous, but there is no record of the Americtin chikl being got rid of so easily. Like Japan and ancient Sparta, the cars are subject to a sjiecies of " dual monarchy," the parallel potentates being the conductor — Avho generally I'etires Avith a fortune acquired nobody knows how, for lie Joeyn't get tipped — and the negro porter. You might almost imagine the conductor Avas captain of th(; shiji, you see him so seldom, and he is so superior Avhen he thrusts himself on your attention. The real autocrat of the sleeping car is, hoAA'cvcr, the negro, apparently selected for the lightness of his colour; for other qualifications are rare. There is one to each sleeper, and he talks of his ladies, and makes himself generally objectionable until the last day, AA'hen he takes up most of your morning in brushing you and other genial patronage. You give him a dollar, if you have not seen too much of him. On the Canadian Pacific RailAA'ay they are pretty AAell behaved, because if there is one man in the Avorld Avho stands no nonsense it is the President of the Canadian Pacific RailAAay. No detail is small enough to escape his notice. On other lines they are maddening. Going along to Kingston, Ontario, I noticed a hum , an English Engineer officer, seconded for a statt' appointment at the Canadian lloyal Military Academy, AA'as teaching a negro porter his position in the scale. The jiorter, after looking at his sleeping-c.ir ticket, stuck a little piece of blue cardboard in the ribbon of the major's hat. The i i are ! •l- LIFE ON THE CARS. 217 major oi'dcrcd him to take it out, and ai)olo^is(' on THE STATi:-UOOM OF A " SLEEPER.' tlio spot ; tlio no<^ro replied Avith the i:fii?i;'lin2,' im- pertinence of his race. Unfortnnatelv for him, tlie T~ ^^' 1 1 'I I V, m )•! Is 'll ■.'(#■ 0k^ I i i 'i cars were in a depot (pronounced i/ee-po, as they cjill railway stations in America) ; the major used no more words, hut, taking the porter hy the scrufV of his neck, kicked him ott' the car. There were two or three otiier sleepers on the train, and the sore-tailed African went and fetched their mud-coloured porters to assist hi a. The major saw them coming, and ca;;rd uit, " Get as many as you can, I've been lonL'n: ;" ; i kick the whole lot of you." Now, the major was : ^ery big man, and only one porter at a time could mount the car steps, so the ncgi-oes who had not felt his toe thought the most graceful way out of the difficulty was to jeer at the negro who liad. Tlie negro porter's great aim in life is to put his ladies and gentlemen to bed as early as possible, in order that he may repose his sable carcase on the; sofa of the smoking-room earlier. You dine at six or half -past five, and he starts putting his most amenable passengers to bed about eight. Our negroes used to get so angry with us because we would not go to bed till about half -past ten, and if we had taken lower berths, because we could not get the state-room, they used to make a point of dropping down the upper berths above us before they did anything else, so that we had to sit stooping, if we grew tired of the smoking-room and platform. The comedy of life on the cars is chiefly apropos of the sleeping arrangements ; they really are very Funny. The numbers of the berths are only hung LIFi: ON THE CARS. 211) they on the curtains, and sometimes get pushed alon<^ to the wrong berth ; tlierel'orc no hxdy enters her herth witliout extreme circumspection lest she slioi I <'ncounter vevehitions of pyjamas. If she ha,. . ) <'nter an U2)per berth, the nigger brings a ladder thai holds her skirts round her ankles while she mounts, having previously divested herself of her boots, if they require cleaning, and deposited them undcx the lower berth, very often beside a strange man's. The nigger beguiles the watches of the night by cleaning them. Sleeping ^ ■•■.... test the stuff a woman is made of, perhaps T snr d say made iqi of. She cannot undress until. li» gets into her bunk, Avliich, for getting out of ht corsets and skirt, is about as convenient as he" ?off«n, being hardly higher than the space betAveen tne shelves of a cupboard. There is nowhere to pile up the multitudinous garments, hair, teeth, and so on, that she may shed, except the foot of lier bunk, f»nd she has to dress in the same commodious wa the mcrnins'. Under the circumstances, it is hardly surprising that the ladies avIio come on board looking daintiest go off looking worst ; the only ones who have a chance of keeping up to the mark are the girls who come on in shirts and twTed skirts and sailor hats. It is not easy to exaggerate the trials ladies have to go through in dressing in the morning. Men get on w(»ll enough ; most men have a conscience, ana can dress in a reasonable time ; l)ut a lady will diddle-daddle while she is keejiing a dozen or more Avaiting ; she V I f^i 220 ON THE CARFi AND OFF. will iis(» all tlir water sprayini? hor baby iindci' the tap, and tlio curlinp^ of a rrin«^o will make; break last an impossibility for half a score. I had a tender spot in my heart for a pr(»tty little Scotch banker's wife, Avho came on board with locks of Calil'ornian i^'old, and went off with her hair a cjrizzled l)ro\\ ii, ])ecanse the train was too jerky to put the hair-dye* on evenly. The little man in bic^ boots is almost as common as the unprotected girl avIio flirts witli the conductors on the sleeping cars ; and an undue? proportion of made-up male wrecks also seem to travel. The pretty girl, with her golden hair ahvays so glossy and neat, and with her skin always so pink and white and clean, and her shirt so immaculate, Avould get up at six to liave the free use of the dressing-room, until she found out that so doing caused a great gulf betw een her and certain gentle- men. It provokes a coolness if a girl sees a man, who is quite a masher in the daytime, bristly, bald, fat, puffing, not precisely in jiyjamas, l)ecause you are not allowed to go outside your bunk in them, but quite likely in only a shirt and trousers, with the braces hanging doAvn ; it may be a glimpse into married life for the girl, but it is so difficult for the man to be unconscious afterwards. "When he meets her an hour later looking quite himself, and Avith his teeth in again, he stares over her head, and says to himself, " I wonder if that young woman, who saw me frouzy from my pillow, penetrates this disguise." Life on the cars is really an epitome of life ; you /.//•'/•; oy Tin-: cAJis. •221 s*^ ('.111 even do a j^ood deal of sliopjjiiii^'. Some when! or otlun*, under tlic coals ol' tlio tciidor, or u])oii tlic roof, tlierc is a mysterious lioard from wliich tlio "dil) 1)oy who walks u]) and doAvn all day, lik(; th(» fiend who tormented Job, produces in(;xhaustil)le supplies of newspapers, pirated novels, fruits, candies (sweet- meats), tohacco, black silk caps, j)acks of cards, and anythiiii^ else likely to cheer the victim of the railway, (except intoxicatini^ drinks, lie Avill brinj;- you water, if you like, for nothini^ ; Ik; does every- thing in a lari^e sort of way, recoufiiisiiii^ himself as a sort of heir-apparent to the captain-like conductor and tli(; autocratic darky. He generally opens his campaign with literature, feeling that people may like to lav in a store of that to start consuming at tlie odd moments when they are not assimilatini'' victuals, or taking lodaks, or scheming for a flirta- tion Avith the most attractive stranger in the car. He does this, too, in a handsome, characteristic mann(;r. AValking up the car, he distributes his papers and ])ooks right and left, like a drunken lord throAving his small change to a croAvd , as he returns from the Derby. Everybody at once commences to sample them Avith devouring energy ; five minutes after the temjiter returns, and if you are too absorbed to surrender what you are reading, you buy it. The sales do not appear to be large, except Avhcre the tlu'oat and stomach plead his cause ; but chcAving, sucking, and smoking go on Avith the quiet per- .sistencv of a Avater-mill. Occasionally there is a (.' li^ 22i n.y Tin: cars axd off. tableau when lie oHVrs ////// y'/v////, or rival dosci'ipt ions ol' chcwiiin* ,i;"mn, to an old Kui^lish ,s([ulr(> en roittt' for Hi'itisji Columbia, to sec if ho can make; a [)rovisi(ni I'or his youui^'cr childriMi by invcstiui;' in real estate at Vancouver; but so loniif as he conliiKvs hiniself to the American child he is sur(^ to sell what he oilers; the parents pay and th(; children show them no mercy. It takes about a week to cross the contiiuMit, but it is not very monotonous ; there arc stations at intervals of about lialF an hour, and yon g'encrally u;i)t out at all of them, only jumping on aj^ain as the train is i?oinj]f oil' ; there may be half a dozen other people Avho do the same, and the last is apt to have to juin]) on pretty briskly. Tlicm there; are meals three times a day, sometimes in a diniui^ car, sometimes at a dinini^ station, when it is too moun- tainous for the engine to be able to drag the extra weight of the dining car ; and then; is the occasional excitement of noAV i)ass(Migers getting in, or tlu; axle catching fire, or coming upon a wild beast by surprise. The day before we Avent from Peninsula to Xorth Eay there had been a couple of bears upon the track. Unfortunately, for a Avonder, no one on the train had a rifle ; so the bears lived to tell the tale — as Avell as the hiuuan beings, avIio A^'ill always 1)0 thought liars for their pains. In the dining car it is more like l)eing at sea than (^v(;r, for you are waited on by stoAvards in blue uniforms Avitli brass l)uttons. No sui)erfluous money i.iFi: o.v Tin: cars. iMi is wasted on the hiUiliii;c ol" tlirsc c.irs. As soon us ■rr f t V 1 1 1 1 M !■': A DINING CAR. the last meal is over, at the first c(mvenicnt starion, you drop them, and pick up a fres'i one in tini^ for 224 ON THE CARS AND OFF. breakfast in the morniiii^. Tlie cooks vary in quality, and if you travel on the line often, your ajipetite rises or moderates as you recognise the stewards connected with a good or had cook. The dinner costs about three shillings ; breakfast and luncheon, two or three shillings; and wines and beers are by no means dear for American hotel prices. The first thinff you notice on Gjoinc^ into a dininsf car is the foraato catsuj) ; it pervades them. The cruets arc^ fixed in a sort of niche l)etween the AA'indoAvs, (*ach patronising a table large enough to contain four. In the autumn the feature at breakfast is Lake Superior white fish or Great Lake trout ; it does not matter which you order, they look and taste so much the same. However, one can always take refuge in tomatoed cutlets, which all the cooks turn out divinely. Somehow or other, I do not think the pretty girl appreciated the bill of fare, for the Canadian Pacific Railway cars were the only place I ever saw her taking jiorridge ; and when we got to Vancouver she mentioned as the disap2)ointment )f tiie journey that we had had no canvas-l)acke(l duck, which she had heard Avas a feature in the car meals on the Pennsylvania llailroad. Switching oft' tlie dining cars Avhen vou think vou have done Avith tlieni is all A'cry Avell ; but sometimes the tr^^n gets blocked — in a snoAA'drift, for instance — and then the passengers feel that the railway arrangements hav(» l)r()ken doAvn. Sometimes, again, the train is so latt^ r 1 ¥" car olt* Ivitli ;'ots the late LIFE ON THE CARS. 225 tliat t\ui (linini^ car docs not arrive at its sliuiiting" place till the followini*' morning'. Tliis is not pleasant, l)ecause one pictures tli(; stewards sleeping on the tables. Wc missed a meal once bv beini? blocked after wc had switched olf our restaiu'ant ; there had been a land slide. How we envied the female who fed out of a black l)ag, and only went into the restaurant once in a Avay Avlien she felt particularly empty 1 The principal nuisance is having your tickets clipped ; the conductor, who is so like a captain, takes the tickets awav and sticks a card in th(^ hat of his victim if he is only a day traveller ; l)ut we, w ho were going the A\'liole three thousand miles, had (| I lite a "young book," and used to get so mad at the incessant clipping, that the conductor suspected there was something wrong about them, and woidd take them aAvav to the back of the car to examine tlumi under a microscope, or try them with acids. \Mtli the sleeping-car ticket it was even a\ orse ; tlu? nigger used to punch the day of the month and the day of th(} week, and the number of the party, and make sundry cabalistic notes in pencil, Avhich I suspect expressed his doid)ts whether I Avas really married. Th(\v do things so completely on the Canadian Pacific Raihvav. In the mountains a fresh varietv of car is intro- diiced — the "observation car," which is open like a verandah. For a man Avho Avishes to find out what good tlie sparroAvs get from a dust bath, a liot-wiud 15 t i' I. 22G ON THE CARS AND OFF. day ill Melliouriic is not to be mcntionocl in the same breath with the " observation car " iiying tliroiii^li the cool careen mountains of Canada. You feel as if you were lieing hosed with dust, and that the thick blue or brown veil, in Avhich the American female shrouds herself on her travels, is the one sensible •garment in creation. But it is an immense assist- ance in takincj in the view, for on the cav tail vou can only be " looking backward," like M\\ Bellamy (looking backward while always going forward), and there is the chance of having a private car tacked on liehind, still farther limiting the view. Private cars, Avhether they l^elong to Boston millionaires, or only to the unfortunate officials of the company who have to Avander up and dov.ii ih(; road on business, are ahvays intensely interesting to tlie ordinary traveller There is the same kind of romance attached to the private car as to a yacht, — vou alwavs think tlie girls in them must be so interesting (and beautiful, too, if you do not get too close to them) ; at any rate, they always have cameras, and one feels that tliev must have lovelv food, for one can smell the cookinu' all dav loim'. Th(? Canadian Pacific RaihAay ought to have a commission ou detective cameras, kodaks, liawk- eyes, etc.. Tor the average passenger would as soon think of going Avithout antiliilious medicines as A\ itliout a camera. Whenever you stop at a station, all the steps for getting doAvn are packed witli people taking pot shots Avith kodaks. American ^^. > il c same lirou2fli 3I as if } tliick female ensible assist- i.il vou ellamy cl), and tacked Boston 3iaLs of v.'ii the sting to cind of aclit, — be so 2^et too s have lovely liave a liawk- bs soon lies as Itatioii, witli lerican -"^ ( I i .««( LIFE ON THE CARS. 227 cliildren learn kodakini^ lonL? before they learn how to behave themselves. As the train moves out tliero is always a scramble betw(HMi the pooph* wlio have • '•ot out an.l do not Avani to be left behind, and the A COLONISTS C'AK. SUOWINU HOW THK IJKItTHS LKT DOWN. people who are kodaking- uj) to the last minute. Crossing tJie prairie, every operator imagines he is going to kodak an Indian ; but tlie w ily fndian sits in the shade, wlun-e instantaneous pli(jtogra])liy availeth not, aiul, if he ol)serves liimself being in ■.:\ I ;^ ^1 - »■ '3 t V Mt V*f ' 1 (. i't »♦ I'- 22H ON Tin-: CARS Axn orb '• timc-cxposod," covers liis lieacl with a l)hiiik('t. The conductors ucvor s(H*niod to i^-riidi^c ^,lic Indians a rido on the train Avhen they Avanted one. Tiie lledskins were ahvays sharp (^lougli not to iind(n*- stand tickets. I do not know whether they Avent in Avith the Irish or tlie Cliinese. In th(^ colonists' cars used for emigrants, Chinese, if tliere AA^re many of them, ahvays had a car to tliemselves. Between tlie Chinese and the Irish tliere is a mutual repulsion. As a fellow-passenger I should prefer the almond-eyed ; they do not cook so much as the ordinary emigrant, Avho l)rings his own food and bedding, and has a stove at his disj^osal for the preparation of the former. On a hot day, therefore, the atmosphere of the colonists' car borders on the indescrilmble. Such old, old Avomen emigrate sometimes. I fancy that the Irish peasant, Avlien lies gets so successful that he has exhausted all the ])arents, brothers, and sist(n*s lu^ had to imp'ort, falls back on his grandmother. It is rather fun to ])ass down these cars and see tin* babies squatting round, and the p(»ople, some (^xti ng, some cooking, and .some slee]Hng (th(\v make up their beds ^or tlieni- seh'es, so they often go to bed at odd times), il' only tJiey would not all contribute to the atmosplier(\ I never saAV any of tluMu take the slightest int(n-(^st in the scenerv ; in fact, thev did not ilnd anvtliiim' to interest tluMn (\xcept tol)acco, tinned food, and 1)(hI. For us, AvluMi Ave were once past the ])raii'ie, it was as exciting as a theatre, with the glorious and I 1 :^ f LIFE 0.\ Tilt: CANS. 229 [ndians I. The iin(l(M'- V AV(Mlt car to c Irish ssciii»-ov [)t cook ngs liis li.s2)osal ot day, borders 11 ii^ rate lion lie all the t. falls ) pass round, and theni- ir only plioro. it(n'(vst \ tiling' 1, and )rairie, Lis and D' A« 1 ^ startlini;' scenery. And there was qidte a k)t to keep us i^'oinij;'. To hei^'in with, there were our rellow-2)asseiigers, A\'lio alwavs fraternised ii' more than jt dav to^-etiier, unless they were a complete party ol' tlieni- scdves. As we had the honour of the pretty o*"^- 'J30 ON Tin: C'Ah'S AX/) OFF. " Ivailways, stoamovs, coaclics. AVe liad to j^o in ji l)iiclvl)()ar(l tlio other dav." A bcautit'iil smile spread over that ohl Yankec^'s face. " 1 thouii'lit a'OU wei'e no driunmer. ' Smart i]iii>'lisii,' that's wliat I sav. Anvwav, w(^ don't I'un to ieniah' drmnmers much, even in the States. L travel in silk handkerchief's ; you won't take half a dozen as a little present from a silly old gentleman, Avill you ? It isn't easy to have too many clean liandkcrchiefs in this dust-trap." I haA'e left the description of the cars to the last. ^V Canadian Pacific train consists i' a mail car and one or more haggage cars, first-class cars, second-class (or t'olonists') cars, and sleeping cars, the sleeping cars, of ^'ourse, l)eing the r.:ost exjiensive, as you have to hold a first-class ticket, and to piy ^{^20 (£1< Is.) extra for the whole distance l)etween Montreal and A'ancouver, and \li an increased ratio for shorter distances. The first-class cars ai'e the ordinarv .Vmerican Tail way carriages, witliout compartments, and ^^ itli a passage running the whole length l)etwcen j'oavs of garden seats constructed to hold two each, a)id up- holstered Avith red velvet. There is a retiring-i'oom for ladies at one (^id, and gentlemen at the other, and a filtcn' of iced Avater. The colonists' cars have hunks for letting doAvn at night like the slec^ping cars, hut the jjassengers provide their OAvn hi-dding. The sleei)ing car consists ol* three parts — the main hodv of the car containin-u' a dozc^n l)ertlis on either side — terminating' in a state-room at one end, and a •'« a>M > 4 k;> ■•^..^ ) l;o 111 iiiikoc's ' Smart ii't villi ,tos. L 1ml I" a : Ionian, r clean last. A incl one lass (or cars, of to hold fctra for convcr, iicrican d Avitli OW'S of ntl up- U"-]'ooni OtlUM', havo loopiiiii," •dding'. e main citlicr and a T V ^ iu» fc» A. /'<'/•; ox Tui-: cms. i;n smoking-room at tin; other. The state-room is for the convenience of honey moon inu,' couples and others. By day it is a luxuriously ii])holstered little drawinn'- room, hy niij;ht a cahin with three herths. You ])ay exactly the same for it as you would for any other three herths, and yet, when you have heen lucky enoui^li to secure it, you feel 2)urse-i)rou(l towards the other occupants of the car. To ladies it is a g-enuine hoon, hccause, hy not hitting' their gentle- men couKi to l)ed until they ar(i ready, and hy making them get u]) llrst, they can stand U}) while tliey are dressing and undressing themselves, curl tlieir fringes, dye their hair, and put on any other linishing touches at leis in . The main ])art of the sleeping car is divided into twenty-four herths ])y night —six up])er and six loAver on each side, curtained olV from the central passage ; hy day it is divided into garden seats and sofas alternat(dy, upholstered ill sage-green velvet with most luxurious cushions. Jjesides the accommodation ah()V(i mentioned, there are, of course, hidies' and gentlemen's dressing- rooms and retiring-rooms. These cars are always magniiicently inlaid witli rare woods, and furnished with the most costly a])pliaiices to ensure smooth running. Tliev cost as much as live or six thousand jiounds apiece some of them — more than the engines themselves which drag the trains to the top of tin; Kocky ^Mountains. In addition to these cars, w liich are attached to every train, there arc^the dining cars, sonietiiues detacii d. I ■■{ : )i :: I ' i: .!, 'll it I 2:513 ox THE CARS AN/) OFF. No description of the Canadian Tacilic Hallway would l)e complete Avitliout nn allusion to Sir James Grant, K.C.M.G., t]u> stately iIij,Hiland chief (Grant of Corrimony), avIio has been viceregal physician to the last half-dozen Governors-General. Sir James, the most distinijfuished medical man in Canada, thouo'li horn in Scotland, was a i^raduate of McGill (Montreal). It was he who introduced the orij^inal Canadian Pacific Raihvay Bill, Avliich has linked the scattered and conflicting^ provinces of Canada into the high-spirited, patriotic inipmiun in iniperio which hears the proud title of the Great Do^riNiON. 1 I] SIR .TAMKS GRANT. ^ Llailwav i* James (Grant Lcian to Jamos, Canada, McGilJ 3rii,^inal kod the da into ) which W) ClIAPTini XV ill. FLYING ACROSS T/llC rUAI/ifi:. TT7E hoard a ^-roat deal a i'ew years ag'o about * * Australia ])eini'' tlie Paradise of tli(.' Avorkiiii;- man, Avhich meant practically the man who would not alloAV others to Avork. Without anv doiil)t Canada is The Peasant's Paradise. There are instances too numerous to recount of men, Avho had worked for hetween half a sovereii:^n and a soverei^ii a Aveck at home, emigratini*' to the Canadian North- West, and being Avorth their ten thousand dollars in less than ten years. Here once more the old motto, j'mupertas mater virorum, holds i^'ood. Canada has been only a stepmotlier to the young- man of good birth and some capital, but dependent on others for experience and labour. Lal)our is not alAA'ays to be procured, and experience is A'ery ex- l)ensive to purcliase. Xor, as it lias been Avell said, is the experience one gains as a pupil, paying a liigh premium to Avatch others AAorking, the right kind. Tlie sort one A\7xnts is the sort one gains b\^ liaAini*' to do a thing to the satisfaction of the master, Avho pays one's AA^ages. Tlie successful men liaAe for tlie most pavt begun as farm labourers. Sonu^imes the 23y Hll' I 2iii OX Tin: < A/i'S AX/) OFF. lu'wiy arrived lahoiircr has a i^ood I'at sum in tlic hank, is in fact a much ricluM' man than liis mastci* -sometimes his only capital will be a knowledge of thinj^'s ag'ricultural and a capacity to work. I']ven in the hitter case, a tliril'ty man can save enon|L;'li in a vear or two to start on his own account in a small wav [ heard of a man name 'd Li inunmii' lor instance, who had l)een workini^ on a farm in Kincardineshire lorwai^-es at Avhich he could scarcely mak(* a hare living- Tor liimself and his I'amily. lie emii-ratod to Carherrv in Manitoba, and out oi' his first year's wages on a farm saved £00. With this he Avent to a 2)lace called Welhvood, a few miles away, where soil, Avood, and Avater were all that could be desired. He liought a farm of IGO acres, for which he paid £20 doAvn, and the rest in annual instalments. lie paid £30 more for a yoke of oxen and a cow, leaving himself £10 to live on till his crops were in. All the farming implements he needed were Avillingly lent him bv his neighbours. In four years' time he had paid for his farm, and owned all the farming* implements he required, besides three good horses, tAvelve good cattle, and a good stock of poultry and pigs. And Mr. Legge records a still more remark- able instance : — " A A'^oung farm labourer from Yorkshire Avent out in the spring* of 1890. He readily found employment at good Avages, Avliich enabled him at the end of his tAvelvcmonth's engagement to buy a yoke of oxen. AVith no other equipment, and scarcely money enough i t ! ri.YiM; ACROSS Tin: ruMini:. 285 •f time to supply liiiuscir witli the iiccM'ssai'ics of lilV, In- rented an improved I'arm of *)2(l acres at KM) dollars pel' annum, JJOi) aercs hciin;' ready Tor sccdim;' —a \['\'\ unusual |)ropoi'ti()U. A team of horses, hinders, mowirs, and plou^'lis were liired, and workini;' with prodiuious industry, he sueeeech'd in tin* s))rinL;' of 1S|)] ill sowing' 250 acres of wheat and ."»() acres of oats and harley. ^J'he yiehl more than realised liis saiig'uine exj)ectations, that ol" wheat Ix'iui;' somethiui;' over tliirtv hiisliids to tlie acre. With the assistance of one man to stook, he commenced har.cst on tlie 21th of Ang'ust, just esca])in!^' the frost. At the Hir(>sher's measure lie woiiUl thus secure 7,r)()() l)usli(>ls of w]i(>at ah)ne. At 75 cents per husliel, wliich was the price at tlie (devator in the tall ol' 1S91, he would realise 5,(525 dollars, as the g'ross result of his lirst year's ti'adini;' upon notliini^' ; and after paying' for lahour, rent, aiul the hire of ini])lements, would still have a net ])r()fit of ahout 3, ()()() (h)llars." To the practical farmer, who can work Avith his own hands, and is not afraid of a severe climate, the Canadian Xorth-West oll'ers success on unusually easy terms, i'oi* two reasons. It Avas so loni^' imagined to he a harren arctic region, that its Aalue has not heen discovered loncj cnou"'li I'or all tin; ijjood harmiins to have gone, and it requires less lahour to cultivate than anv knoAvn virs^in Avheat-raisin"- country. As an instance of the latter, I may ([uoto what L was told of ]Mr. Elasson and ^Ir. Johnston, tAvo young Englishmen, Avho Avent out to ^Manitoha in I t.' |K'| IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 u 122 122 1: 144 "^ "* — I" 2.0 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145M (716)t72-4S03 %^.4^ <\ 2;u; UX THE CARS AND OFF. I V 1888 Avitli £1,200 capital. Tlicy liircd tlKMiisclvos out as labourci's, and wIkmi tlicy knew (Mioiiji'li oT colonial rarniinj? ])()ui»'ht a farm of JJ20 acros IVoni the Canadian Pacific Kaihvav Co. Bv the autumn o1' the lii'st year, with their own hamls, tlu'v had proi)aro(l a hundred acres for the next year's crop, built a house and stable, sunk wells, built their fences. The first year they mad(5 £280 by their wheat crop, and another £100 by Avorkin^* with their teams for other farmers. The second year they tilled another 00 acres, and cleared £ltO by their crops of wheat and oats ; and the third year they boui^ht another 100 acres, and tilled 100 acres of it. That year in all they had 200 acrcvs under wheat, 50 under oats, and 10 uiuler " Timothy," and could have sold out for £2,200 instead of the £1,200 with which they had begun three years b(^for(\ And they manai^ed all these improvements Avithout any hired helj) at all, except at harvest time. The settler in the Canadian Xorth-AVest has one tremendous pull : he i^ets his hay for the trouble of cuttini? it. All over the prairie th(>re are in- numerable swamps, Avhich dry up in tin; smnmer, and ar(! covered Avith majj^niticent hay j^rass a couple of feet hii^'h, Avliich the farmer is free to cut on unoccupied lands. Mr. Legi^e says : — " About the last Aveek in July hay-cuttini»' l)ei^ins. The exact date for cutting on unoccupied land is fixed by the Government. The time is probably not distant when, under a regular rotation of croi)s, every anv ins. Icl is not FfA'i\(.' Ach'oss Tin: riiMiiii:. 2:57 lannor Avill i;-r()\v liis i\\\\\ hav and fodder corn. At prnsent Iir (U^immkIs almost cxchisivcdy njxni tlic nativ<> wild •jfrasscs which i^row luxuriantly in the sloii2;hs, and which, cured to liay upon the i^ri)und, niak(; o.vcollont t'oddor. Vt licro the slouij^hs retain \\ ater, th(^ ij^rass ol'ten exceeds three 1>(^t in heio-ht and three tons to the acr(^ ; and when they are dried out, a ton per acre is «^en(U'ally secured." And th(; liay ])ractically makes itself. TiiK Peasant's Taradisk comprises ahout l.l(),()()() square miles out of the 2,50(),()()0 includc'd in the Canadian North-AVest, and is divided into the four ])rovinces of Manitol)a, Alherta, .Vssinihoia, and Saskatchewan. All except th(^ last-named are on the main line of the Canadian Pacilic, and it is s(»rved hy l)ranch lines, while tin? southern parts of AEanitoha and Assinihoia, from Winnipeg to llc<^ina, have quite a network of railways. It takes three whole days, travellinii^ day and nii»;ht, for the travelhn* fVom th(^ Atlantic to the Pacific to cross the Prairie, the ifreat fertile helt of Canada, as it has been calhMl. The prospect is not so interminably dull as mii^ht have been expected, for its characteristics vary a li'ood deal. Xow, itwill l)e an interminable cornfield h'vel as a ])illiard board, waving' Avith ij;rain, or busy with harvestini*' operations on the smallest or the larijjest sctde ; now, one Avill be jiassing' a prairie town, with fine stone building's like Calgary — a capital in miniature; now, one consisting of a few wooden liouses drojjped i)r()miscuously in the middle of a T ■ 1 '■. 1 1 i. \ 'f'i h if f i I- 238 n.\ THE CAIIS AND OFF. plain, lookiiii^ like I'ood Tor the first blizzard, and beariiiii: 'iii impossible iiamo like Qii'.VppcUc or A[()os('jaAV — wliicli are l)otli, howcvor, considerable' places as prairie townsbips i^o. Moosejaw is an Indian name, and is only an abbreviation for " tbe creek wlu^re tbe white man mended bis iiij*; Avitli a moosejaw." At any of tbesc towns, lari^e or small, vou are likely to see one of tbe biii^e cjrain elevators, wbicb looks like tbe lost transept of a wooden catbe- dral, but testilies so niucb to tbe trade of a place. After a ricb barvestini? district one will pass a bit ol' iinred(»emed prairie, according? to tbe season carpeted witli a miniature forest of tall j^rass and i^lorious sprins^ flowers, or l)ald and brown, and tbrowin^' ii]) in strong contrast tbe jiiles of wbitenin» I (I, and *llo or Icrablc is sill I' "tlic with a small, vatovs, cathc- XCL\ pass a season iss and n, and itonini;' foamcd )cd the 10 rail- Ir those notary lire of tonous. ion, it Id un- Ichaiiis \vator- [Major loured Itural >» *•* -, -vl -V ■ i < < ►J O s LTsnw a & I.' FLYisa .KVi'os.s THE riiMiiu:. 231) If r macliinory, mamiractiircd in Ontario ])y such flniis as Mass(\v of Toronto, tlic principal nianuracturors of tli(i world in this lino. Tli(» country hotwocn Port .Vrtliur and Rat Portai^c, after passinii; I^'ort William, a Hudson's Bay post nioro than a century old, with its fur-house still standinsj and used as an engine-house, is not very interesting from a farming- point of view — though Fort William itscdf, which is a sort of commercial port to Port Arthur, has some of the largest grain elevators in the Avorld. It is a wild, hroken country full of lakes and forests and cataracts, the Kaministiquia Falls near Murillo heing almost as imposing as Niagara, and far higher. At Hat Portage, a city of saw mills, with a mammoth flour mill in its suhurh of Kecwatin, all of them turned hy the fine Falls of Keewatin, the Indians lor the tirst time hccomc a question. Red Indians are a strange mixture of up-to-date- ness, simplicity, cunning, and reliahility. They have such a shrewd understanding of the civilisation they despise. Take, for instance, their oft-repeated discrimination between Americans and Canadians. The Canadians have treated them fairly. In Canada they arc never robbed of justice because the wealthier white man has bribed the judge, nor do they suffer on their I'eserves by the peculations of the agents in eliavge. In conseqiuMice, all through the last two Sioux wars a waggon with a Union Jack displayed could go with safety through the districts where the Indians were on the warpath. And the Sioux chief, » ■»! I ! V -'40 or Tin: CAiis .\\n off. who .iMiiiliiljitcd (icncrul Cust(u*'s army, passed witli his l)i*av(?s over tlic l)()i'(h'r and took rami work with a hiu; Canadian rancher, and has never y;iven tlie sliuflitest tronhhf. Tlie case is (5ven nioro marked wIum'c a trihe is located i)artly in tlie United Stat(;s and partly in Cana(hi, like the Ojihways, in Avhose co' itry the l^akc of the "Woods is situated. .V few years ai^o some Baltimore sjx'culators start(Ml a fishery-company in the American part of the lake. They used enormous nets, with such a small mesh that they ruined all the breeding i^rounds, on whicli the Indians relied for the fish Avhich forms their principal article ol' diet. The Indians, infuriated at the spectacle '.)f stran«^ers comin*; a thousand miles to destroy their ])ro])erty, took the law into theii* own hands, drove the Baltimoreans away with re- peatini;' rifles and cut the; nets up — into suitable len«^ths j)r()l)al)ly. Then the Sheriff of AEichii^an, I think, came upon the scene, but, as he brought no force, ado])ted the naaviter in imulo. The Indians rcTop^nisiui*- his position, treated Avith him as a kind of forein'n ambassador, but he Avas surpris(»d that when a bi^ council was called everythini^ was refei'red to a chief from the Canadian side of the l)()rder, Avho was present. "What's he i»'ot to do with it, anyway ? " in([uired the plenipotentiary of the United States. " I'm dealinj^ with American Indians, not Canadians. Has he been eh()i)pinL;' at the nets too r " It Avas explained that he Avas the f n FLYING Acimss Till: riiMiiii:. 941 head cliicr of tlu* Ojil)uays on l)o«'j sides ol' llit5 border, and that miythiiii? lie deeided would l)e hiiidinu* '>n the men, who had ^akeii the law into their own hands. What ha|)])en(»d eventually I do not know. The matter (iz/ded (nit somehow without a war between the United States and the ()jil)ways. Now, we saw somethiui;' of this imbroglio. Tor we were passini;; through the Ojibway country at that time, and stayed oil' a day or two at Hat l^ortajj^e, the ])rinci|)al t(>\vn upon the Lake of the AVoods (which is con- nected bv a riv hct ween the spectators and tlieir men at Karl's Court, lacini;- their men, was that otiierwise they conhl not he sure that some fanatical hrave would not run a-muck and disciiari;'e his arrows into the crowd. J have also heard that the cowhovs « encamped at I'^arl's Court always had an armed sentry on the watch all ni^ht to prevent Indian maraud ini^s. As far as 1 remember, the well-known Sioux chief called hy the; whites " Youui*; man afi'aid of his horses " was at l^^arl's Court — at any rate, he afterwards i)rove(l himself the most jiii-di'-fiit-f/e Indian cm record, for while he was out on the war j)ath, actually en<^'ai;'ed in lii;'Jitin<^ the forces of the United States, he wrote a letter to the New Vor/i- lli'mhl, ccmiplaiuini;" that it was most damaj^iiig to his repu- tation to have his name mistranslated as it was. The correct version, he said, was " Young- man who made his horses afraid." The paper published his rehahilitatory letter. This is what ^Ir. Leg-ge, who knows much more a])out the farmiui;' districts of the Ncn'th-AVest than 1 do, has to say about the Indians: "The lied Indian as we see him to-day in Manitoha, with every tliini'' that is grotes([ue in apparel, his hlack hair falliiii;' on both sides of his brown face, does not answer to the descri[)tion of ' the no])le savage ' with which we t rLVisa Aciioas tiik viimuil:. •im hiivc I)(M'ii r.iniilliirisc'd. lint il' the wcll-niiulc and artistically ('inhi'oidcrcd white tunic and the i;ay plnnic of Irathci's iiavc disappcan'd, so also lias tlin bloody scalpin^-knilV. With th(; old hcanty of the li'cc denizen of the praii'" has also ^one Mhe veni;'erul I'liry that made man a mere hunter.'" And ^^l•. liei?i»'e has a very picturesijue descri])tiou of '■ the i;rand old Indian ])atriarch, leather Laconihe," who was able to |)revent tlie JMaekl'oot natives I'rom risini;' tf) hel[) Iiiel. I)nt not to [)revent little knots ol* them hanL;in^' round the cities, " with the excns(i that the hiillaloes wei'<' i^one, and food was hard to i;('t, and the white men hrou^ht money which tho s([naws could i^'et. And what was tin; end ? Thero arc* always teptuvs on the hills now beside (*very settlement near the IJlackl'oot reservation. And oiu? old missionarv lilted his tr' conntry, and you L;;ive him a very small house in it.' Thereiorc they ask for bii?i?er rooms and biiijijfer men — ' men that are not afraid of the cfrcat Book.' . . . " The Indian, as a rule, is not hostile to Christi- anity, but regards it as a superstition with which he \ <: f '"I r f - \\ 1 244 OX rill-: CAiis axd or/'. has iiothiiii; wluitrvcr to do. fl' In* has jiny tlioiiLjIii (>r a I'utiin' lilV, it is of tluit now Iicavcii and new rartli, wlicii tlic hulValo sljall return to tlic j)rairi<'." Mr. Ii('i;;i;r allows that both the Hritish and Dominion (iovcrnnicnts have treated the Indians i'airiv, hilt he thinks that no real |)roi;'ress will ever he made hv the Indians until the trihal system is altered. Hat Portai^e was a mneh hetter place than it sounds, liiudy situated hetween the heaiitil'iil h'alK ol' the Keewatin and the Lake of tlie AVoods, whieli is even more heantil'iil than the Thousand Tslands. lor it has inon* than teji tliousand islands instead ol onlv a thousand, and tliev are mostly thicklv wooded. They i^ain, too, by tlie presence of so many silent and uncivilised Indians ^^lidinj^ u^liost-like in and out of tli(; islands in their liL!;lit ])ircli-l)arks, and hy the absence of summer-resort hotels and summer homes ol" patentees. The very oblii^ini^ host ol' the (Queen's Hotel did his very best to make us coml'ortalylc. baulked a littl(»by the e\'pletiv(^s of a country pat I'oii. whom we lieard like a hall'-minute Ixdl throui»:h the day and nii^'ht. Uo was a man of i^reat ini'(Miiiit,\ . I[e had broken a moose to sini'de harness, and a pair of elks to double harness, Avhich could i^o ([uicker than horses for a short distance or a lonu^ one, [ Toruct which ; and he p^ood-naturodly i^ave Charles a drive with them. And he had sundry otlun' queer jx-ts. such as a i?rizzlv bear. In the summer l?at J^)rta^(' is a very favourite resort of AVinnipep^ers. Ihit i'i.vi.\(; Aciinss nil. rn.MUiE. any tli()ut season, in which you sink over your ankles in black prairie? mud wiuMievcn' you are not treadini^- \\\)()\\ a (loi;-, will I'ecoi^nise the ai)])ro|)riat(Mi(vss oF tin's liKliaii nieknam(\ Acc(n'(lini»' to the exc(dl(!nt Canadian " Uaedeker," recently hrouijrht out hv Dulau tfc C(>.. it has now 32, (MM) inhabitants. Tlun-e has been a town upon tlu; site ev(;r since 1738, wlum tin? SicMir de Veven(li've estal)lish(;d Fort lloui^c. 'V\u\ first Eni^lisli settlement was Port Gil)raltar, founded in the fork bestween the riv(U's bv t\\o. North-AVest Coni|)any in ISOIJ. In 1S12 Um\ Scdkirk established his ILii^'hlanders at Fort Oarry, and a sort of civil wai* went on until 1820, wIkmi the two companies aniali>'aniated. Their united elVorts only muster(>(l 2M) inhabitants when Lord Wolsidev made his Famous Red liiv(;r expedition in 187<), but in issi there were nearly 8,0(M) inhabitants, and in I^IM 25, (MM). At ])r(!sent it is much the? tinest Canadian city west oi' Ontario, thoui;,'h it no loni^-er contains the crowd of well-born Fn!.:,'lishmen who did so much lor it in its strui'i'lini'' days. The Fnulish, esi)eciall\ th(? well-born Eiii^lish, are essentiallx i)i()neers. In the old nuun'et days ol' the ^Vust)'alian Victoria, so j'-loi'iously descrilxMl by llenrv Kini'sley, and in the first days ol' (Queensland, as in {\\v iirst days oi" Winnipei*-, U(dl-born KnL!,lishmen wer(^ as thi(d< as berries. Tlnn' wisluvl to (escape the yv.v (unjnshf of home, but scoriuul any occuj)ation in which tlicy wen^ not their own masters. As Aust ralia j^-rew ii]) i FLYING ACROSS TlfE I'h'Afh'll!. L'17 tli(>v li;ul ni.-ulc Hkmi' rortimcs mikI rcttinird to ])iiv, or buy l)ack, castlt's and manors iji l']iii;lan(l and Scotland, or they had jummsIkmI l)y tlic way IVoni ill-licalth, ill-luck, (>xti'<-ivai;\*inc(', drink, or wliat not. And so with AVinniix'i^. As AVinnipcL;' has «;j'own II]), they ha\'(' moved out larthcr west to Alberta and Jh'itish Columbia. The ])ion(MM- in whatevcM' con- tinent is liable to he an lOni^'Iislnnan, as distin^-uished from a Scotchman or Irishman. The Seotehimm ollows lat(M', and tlie Irishman works for both with his ])ick and liis s])a(le, or his sheai-ini;' clips. Ft is always said t hat it is n(Mtli(M' the lli'st noi* second comer, but tlu' third, who makes tlu^ jirofit in ])ioneerinuj. However, tlu' pioneers ol' Manitoba were Scotch- men. Mr. Lei^jj^o has much to say about that s])lendid episode in the liistory ol' ])luck -tln^ story of the i^rowth of the litth^ outj)()st fort on the historical lied River, maintain(>d so hei-oically by Lord Selkirk's lliy-hlanders for sevcMi veai-s (1S12 — 1S]<)) to the ii:rcat city of Winnip(^n'. the Toronto of th'^ North- NW'st, tlu; axle of ten lines of railway, not to mention th(* ccmiinii,' line to Hudson's iiay, which is to shorten tli(^ distances between Afaiiitoba and Liver- po( )l bv live luuidrcd miles for the six months of the year that tlu^ bay is open. Aiul in the way of wheat- vaisinii' they liave achieved marvels. In 1S<)(), a bad year, Manitoba produced ll-jCKJo, ()()() bushels. Mr. Leij^i^'e has to scold thoin for not ])ayini;' sullicieiit attention to mixed farmini>'. It Is a])))ar(Mitly their habit to u'row wheat year after year on the same r, , 1 1 ■ 1 * ' i 248 O.V TIIK CARS AXn OFF. t»;round, until a I'ailinj^ crop warns tlicni to tliink of a fallow. Th(i IManitohan despises root croi)s, and has paid very little attention to stock hitherto, except the team hullocks, so ohvioi an expedi(Mit as keeping lioj^s to turn to account the froz(;n wheat, which sells for next to nothini? and is inferior for seed, haviniif been overlooked. The winter of Manitoba has, it would appear, been traduced :~ " A prevalent aiul very mistaken idea exists that half the vear in Manitoba is a season of (Enforced idleness ; that from the time when the frost i»'ets its permanent jj^rip of the soil until the (^nd of March outdoor occupation b(;comes impossible. Nothinuj could b(i more erroneous. Verv little snoAV falls on tlui prairie, a de])th of fifteen inches beint^ seldom exceeded ; thoui^'h in Manitoba, as we have lately expcM'ienced in England, therii are exceptions to an ordinary season. Storms ol* sleet and wet snow ar(^ unknown ; the snow is so dry and light that in s]u«ltered localities cattle, sheep, and horses inav b(^ h^l't out nearlv the whole Avinter. Such, at least, is tlu^ ()])inion of stock raisers, who hold that even a low tcMujun-ature is not injurious to cattle when the cold is dry." And in the hot ]\lanit()ban summer there is always a breeze. Si)ring ami autumn and Indian summer ballle d(;scripti()n of their loveliness, thougli Mr. Legge gives a good deal of space to descril)iiig them. "Winter monopolises about half the year. f 11 to tliink ^M , cro])s, and '^9 i)v\o, except ■■ .pc(li(Mit as ■H y/Am wiioat, inferior for ppear, been ^| exists that H )!' (Miforced ^| ) frost i^ets U lie (vnd of fl ini])()ssil)le. ■ ^ery little 1 een inches ' ■ init()l)a, as I tlieiHi are fl IS of sleet fl >() di'y and 9 ilHM>)), and 9 N'r. Such, Jiold tliat to catth? is ahvays ' summer J lui^li Mr. 1 ii<^' them. 1 $ *> f S •'t o ■1^ '/ I> FLYING ACROSS THE PRAIinE. 241t Winter has its uses. It is in winter, when hai'dly anythin<5 can he done in the way of farmini^, that the prosperous Manitohan i^oes East, or visits the OUl Country. And if he stays at home he has no hick of amusements. Coasting, tohogganing, skatiiii?, sleig'hini^s innumerahle dances, junketings at each other's houses, and possihly ice-hoating relieve the tedium of the long northern winter — not to mention running down deer and other game for the rifle, on snoAVslioes. And the winter has a further use, for the gradually thawing frost supplies the roots of the crops with moisture in case of a drought. The official report of the climate says : — " The climate of Manitoha is warm in summer and cold in winter. The atmosphere, hoAvever, is very hright and dry, and the sensation of cold is not so unpleasant as that of a cold temperature in a humid atmosphere. Warm clothing, especially in driving, and warm houses, are, however, required. The snow- fall is very light. " Manitoba is one of the healthiest countries on the globe for man and beast, and pleasant to live in. There is no malaria, and there are no diseases peculiar to either the province or the climate. "The long hours of continuous sunshine and warmth afford the remaining conditions to bring tlui crops to maturity. W^arm weather, usually very equable, prevails, but sometimes a heated spell develops. The nights, however, are always cool and most agreeable. < I] ].'■ f ', 1 A .> I,.' \f- i':'^V'randsons of Enij^lish officers and sons of small Canadian farmers, Avho have built n]) i^ii^-antic fortunes under the Southern Cross. In some Avavs the Canadian settler is verv favoured. He is almost always within a foAV miles of the ii:reat railway which links him with IMontreal, New York, and the world : aiul where two or three are fj^atbercMl tof^other, schools and churches are there in th<» midst of them. Fuel, too, is a sim])lo matter, tboui^h of the last importance in a country whore the Avintcn* ther- mometer sinks manv dou^nn's below zero. The Govern- mont i)ledii^o th(»ms(dvos to snpply coal at a maximum of fourt(MMi shillini^s to a pound per ton, and in some I ' ^ f FLVINU AC/iOSS Tin-: PIlMUli:. 2ol \ parts oi" tlu* Norlli-WcsT coal may hv had at IVoin ['oiir to ton siiillini^'s per ton at the pit's mouth, a])art I'rom the fact that on the river l)anlvs it constantly com(»s to tlio surface and may be liad i'or the tal\in<;'. Another i^reat hel|) is tlie establishment of instit\i- tions like tlie J^randon Experimental Farm, where all results are tabulated and pul)lished at tlie eiul oi" the year. These "'ive valuable intormation oji the J'eediu^' qualities and cultivability of the native urasses, and on the widely dilTerent characteristics of the three plateaux into which the prairie divides itself. So too is the estal)lishnuMit of u^rain elevators, where the farmer can sell his wlunit for cash, thoui;]i if ^[r. LeL;'i;e is riiiht, lu' has to keep his eyes Avide ojien in the process. "Thatchini;' is unknown, and the art ol' stack- Ijuildinn' is not advanced in ]\[anitoba. Tlie best jn'ices for i^rain are i>'enerally realisiul before navii;'a- tion is closed, and, as this may occur any tim(* after the bei^inning- of November, grain is rushed to the elevator, and ])rices consecjuently lowered. The needy farmer, who must s(dl liis wheat at whatever pi'ice it will fetch, is thus very much at the mercy of the agents at the various centres of distribu- tion. AVheat is graded into fonr qualities, the price for each being fixed in a rough-and-tumble way by the agents of the oAvners of the elevator. These men are always prepared to pay cash for wheat ; but their avarice is, in some cases, only surpassed by their ignorance. xVnd there are men % i»';i ' !* * ,fl,' \l 362 ON Tin: CARS AXD OFF. ()F hii^h cliaracter who would stoop to lUMtlici*. 1 fear that such constitute a small minority. Mr. Lci^go was very anxious fen* the ostahliylrnuui ol' Government creameries to not only buy, hut to collect, all the milk the fanmn's hav to offer ; he ])ointecl out that to estal>liaii butter as a staiut; export to Engltind it is necessary that the manu- facture should command tin; best skill and appliances, and the supply be regular. Canadian l)utter mii^lit then have as jj^ood a chancer as Canadian 'dieese, of ^\ hich over 9 1,()()0,000 pounds Avere exj)ort(Hl even as far back as 1890. Accordiiii^ to Mr. Lej^ge there is hardly anything which cannot be done in Manitoba bv institutions or c ingenuity. Keeping olf the frost, for instance, in a land Avherc the mercury wanders thirty or forty degrees below zero, is quite simple. The frost apparently ends in smoke — that is, it can b(; ended bv smoke. One of the oldest settlers in Manitoba told Mr. Legge that he could keep frost off a s(juare mile of land or more by simply emptying cartloads of straw on the north and east sides, along the road allowance, and setting fire to it when frost seemed likely to come on — that is, when the wind is from a north or easterly direction, or there is the unusual indication of fog. Canada has, at any rate, an ever-increasing body of men who should be very well fitted to combat with frost and ice, for there are more Icelanders in t ^ FLvr.wG ACROSS Tin-: phmhii:. -ibA Canada tliaii tlicn* a i'c in Tr '"]i)iiic tv ■iiilulutfnitftwr iiic island cmiiifmtrd to this wintry land of promise a IVw years back. Mr. L(\i^<^(' says that tlicy " r('f;'ard Canada as thoir natnral home, and maintain a sturdy bolicf in tho loi^cMid of its discovery by their ariC(*stors four hundred years before Coluinl)us was born " ; and adds that, t]ioui»'h " less enterprising- than tlie ^lennonites, tu ' Iceland(M's are steady and industrious, and are much valued as fai'm servants." It seems to me much more imjjortaiit that lumdreds of Canadians who were tempted to emii^'rate to tlie Dakotas and Montana, " debauclied by the rainbow-hued statements of tin? Yankee emi^'ration ai;ents," are now tindini'- their wav back as fast as opportunity offers ; and that immij^rants are pouring in from the United States, botli from the parts just mentioned, and from Michigan, Wisconsin, Ncnv York, and N(nv England, acting on the reports of the delegates whom they sent to spy out the naked- ness of the land. As I am talking more particularly of the North-West, I have said nothing of the lumber- ing in the Avilder parts of Ontario. Since I have been back from Canada, I liav( constantly been asked by peoph? in the agi'icultural parts of England how much capital an immigrant requires. Of course, many of the most successful farmers in the North-West came out without a u'uinea in their pockets. They simpl had to work as farm labourers till they had saved \\\) their COO to £80, I V V A : i 1^. ^il •J.j4 <)\ THE cms A .WD Oil' W vvliicli covers the oiitl.-iv thiit ciiimot )k» jiv<>i(l<'i'ienc(; as a servant. COOO is the sum j^enerally mentioiu'd for startin<4' in a well-to-do way, thoug-h the starters in a well-to-do way do not often secMii to succeed. Mr. Lei;'i^e's ideal imiii^rant is : — " A man with practical experience in ai^riculture, aiul liavini^ £200 to G5()() at his disposal, if he is industrious, sober, and provident, can hardly fail to do well. . . . " As the labourer is always boarded, he may, ])ractically, save all his earnings ; and at the end of his third year a ca})able, iiulustrious man, steady and stronj^' of pur[)ose, may lind himself in a position to take u}) a free j^-rant of 100 acres of land, build a loi^' cabin, ami adequately stock his farm for all essential purposes. ... " Ilis wife and childr(Mi may (nther earn wai?(^s or cultivate a i^arden, rear poultry, (u* look after a dairy, for all of which a farnu'r will alTcu'd a ••■ood se'rvant reasonable facilities ; or, in default of these, a li'ood four-ro(mied houses may be built for £15 to C2(). Young' W(mien and girls accustomed to house- mA I'LVisa A ('/{OSS riii: ruMim: (UmI 1)V :i • nun with As the i; a yvwv ' colonial IJut the li is nn- < shrewd Cp(M'i(MlC(^ iciitioHcd L! stai'tovs succeed. riculture, , ir he is y Fail to li(» may, e end of steady position build a for all |v^ai2jes or after a a j^'ood >r these, £15 to l) liouse- \\( T,irrnar!mnTTrToT7TTT1 irr**. dollars or 10 dollars (i;i llJv. I'/, to C2 Iv. Sr/.) a month, with hoard, in domestic service, the conditions u\ which are much h'ss irksonu^ than at home." Mr. Ii<',i;'i;'<' should have nuMitioned that, in colonial towns at any rate, female servants have to work a threat deal harder than they do at home — so I'ew servants are kept. The sanu' people who would keep a man-servant or two and several wonu'u here are coJitent with two ov three wouumi there. Wa^-es lor farm servants are ai)i)arently higher in Canada than in Australia ; Tor the ^Manitohan master i;ives 25 dollars (C5) a month and hoard, Avhile the Australian station hand ])egins with " his pound a week ami rations." (Jiie ol' the; thiiii^s which I remember best about WinnijK'^' was at an admirably apjiointed dinner given by the; Manitoba Club to Lord Derby, tluMi Lord Stanley ol' Preston and Governor-General ol' Canada, lie was extremely anxious to oj)en his speech with some remark about \Vinnii)e<»' which should at once Ik: orii^^inal and strikingly ujimjios, but he could think ol' notliin*^. Lord DulVerin with his gcmius for saying tlu^ appropriate thing had exhausted all the city lions. Suddenly a l)right idea occurred to His Excellency. He picked Avith great care Lord Huil'crin's happiest compliment to the city aiul began, " Lord Duit'erin, who seems to liavi^ left nothing nnsaid, called Winnipeg," etc. Better luck attended him on this occasion than on •' ' i; I' .1 t , 2uti O.V Tin: CAliS slM) OFF. miotlicr, when lir was pn'sciit Jit a ball nivcii in ln\ lionour l)v tin' mayor of a small N'ortli-Wivstcni tow n- shij). WisliiiiL;' to know wlu'thcr thr niMvor was .1 •grocer, or had a i^ood Lj^ardcii, or w'' i' !! i -ir FLYIXG ACIiOSS TUB PRAUUr:. •2'>7 $ ^ ^ ollicials m;ike a joke of it, and say that ovon the sun cannot koop pac(* with tho Canadian Pacific llailway •'■oini? west, and tliat it ij^ocs a •••reat deal too last Tor most people goinj]^ east. At Flcmini»:, half-Avay hetAveen Elkhorn and AVliite- Avood, we passed from Manitoba to Assinihoia ; and A-evy pi'osperous-lookini;' are these hist prairie towns ill ^[anitoha, AA'ith tlieir ij^reat eleA-at(n's, solid frame lionses, and stations full of asj^ricultural machinery Avaitini^ to he deliAered. And heyond "WhiteAvood, oxen if tlierc AAcre no Indian Aillai!;'e of many tei)ees to emphasise the fact, the fishing: and foAvlinu; looked better than cA'er, the country Avas full of fascinating? pools and copses, and the tall g'rass of the prairie Avas al)laze AA'ith tall i^olden-rod and i)rairie marii,^olds and purple madonna. The variety in names was very amusing. Summerherry station AA'as succeeded hy AVolseley, and AVolseley by Sintaluta, Avliere the great " Bell Earm " of a hundred sqiuire miles, Avitli furroAAS four miles long, Avliich take half a day a piiir — out and home — to make, began. At Indian- head the cottages of the men emjiloyed on the farm filled all the a'Icav from the station to the horizon. Another curious name AA'as Q>t\[ppelle, quite an important toAvn and riA'er, though it hardly equalled tlie Touchwood Hills to the north and the Dirt lIUJs to the south. Ilegina, AAiiich foUoAA'ed soon, gets its name from being the headquarters of the Lieutenant- GoA-ernor and ExecutiA'c of the four Xorth-AVest Territories, Assinihoia, -:\.lberta, SaskatcheAvan, and 17 % 1 ,il 258 ON THE CARS AND OFF. 1:' Athabasca, the last, it may be observed, being too far north to enter much into immigration considerations until the first three and Manitoba fill up. Regina is also the headquarters of the North- West Mounted Police, a splendid body of cavalry, a thousand strong, recruited largely from dare-devils from the old country, who like the life ; these splendidly mounted red-coats maintaining a galloping sway over hundreds of thousands of square miles. Their principal duties are to keep the Indians impressed, and exclude the importation of spirits into the Xorth-West Territories. As we sped away beyond Moose ja^A', it was sad when we got out of the train to have old buttalo trails pointed out to us. There are literally no sadder footsteps of the departed. It was at Moosejaw that we first saw the prairie by moonlight looking like a sea Avith a great l)lack rim, bridged by two eternal and shining bars of silver — an empire of silence and loneliness. I shall never forget that moonrise, the great red moon slipping up over the beryl and orange and pur])lo after-glow on the horizon into the dark blue dome above. When we woke again it was to see coyotes, even occasional antelopes, disappearing over the ridges ; and hundreds of the funny little prairie dogs, sitting uji like begging pugs at the mouths of their holes. A little farther on, at intervals of thirty .iiiles from lUish Lake to Calsjjarv, we came across the ten laster-Kave farms of ten thousand acres each. The being too far jonsiderations up. Rcgina rest Mounted jusand strong, Tom the old Lidly mounted over hundreds incipal duties i exclude the 3st Territories, ^v, it was sad '^e old huitalo ) literally no w the prairie a 2:reat black ning bars of less. I shall at red moon e and pur])le k blue dome see coyotes, inc: over the little prairie lie mouths of thirty xiiiles icross the ten ^s each. The FLYING ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 259 Canadian Agricultural Company also had a number of large farms. From Swift Current to ^ledicine Hat the line skirts the base of the famous Cypress Hills, in Avhosc valleys — well watered, full of choice native grasses, sheltered by woods, and with numerous salt-pans on the adjoining plains — stock do as well as anvwhere in North America. At Dunmore we Mere reminded of the coal mines, a hundred miles oil' on the branch line to Lethbridge, by long rows of laden coaltrucks. The countrv between Dunmore and t. ]\[edicine Hat seemed very like the country in Australia between Melbourne and Geelong : it has one unenviable peculiarity, no longer shared by any part of Canada — namely, the presence of an occasional rattlesnake. When the United Empire Loyalists first settled Ontario they were a good deal troubled I)y their prevalence, but there has no rattler been seen in (Ontario for manv a vear no^^'. There were steamers at Medicine Hat when we were there which had come up eight hundred miles from Lake Winnipeg ; but we did not see much else excei)t Cree Indians, very much painted and in verv "audv blankets, who were trvinii; to sell cow horns as the real buffalo, while they kept one eye open for the snapping kodaker. For it was a very hot, bright dav, as hot as one jxets on the Murray in Australia. In the scorching streets not a human being was visible — the town looked as deserted as Geelong on a hot-Avind day. Xot a living thing broke the outline or the silence, except a donkey-team, which . 1 f 1 . 1 r H ! ; . I i r ! i< \ 'C .1 U]0 ox Till-: C.I/.'N AM) OFF stood like so ]uaiiy statues for the Avliole Jioiii' and a Iiair we \vei'(* detained tlieve by tlie sua])|)iiii;' of a holt ill tli(* (Mii;'ine. And V(^t it is a brisk, l)nsv town out of siesta tini(\ Some fin(» day Ave lelt tliat ^[edicine Hat wouhl be vcm'v much awak(\ wlien the liLACKFOOT INDIAN, WITH SQUAW AND PAPOOSES*. \S'>t„.('„. enormous i^rizzly hear kciit as a pet on the railway station broke out of his ratlier flimsv cac^c and sr\ about recognising his poAvcrs. Por the time he Avas a most reasonable beast, to be kept in jierfect i^-ood humour by jn'esents of single grapes ; but bears w ill be bears — someday. From Medicine Hat it Avas only a little over a Ic lioiii" and a iia|)|)iiii;' ol" a >k, l)usy town Ave IVlt tliat iko, Avlicii the ).SES. \y„t,„on. he railway a2fc and s(>t nio he was a erl'ect i»-o()(l t l)ears will FLYING ACROSS TITE rUMUlK. •_'(•, I hundred mihis to Gleiclien, wIhm'c V liad oik; of tiie i^reat disa|)})oiiitmeiits ol' iny lil'e. Tliere is a reserve of JUacki'eet Indians then? — tin; iinest Indians on the prairie — and the sph'ndid Scotchman, A[a<,nins IJei^i;', who was in command oi' them, liad them all assembled to iro throu":li the Sun Dance and other tvi)ical performances for me to descril)e, hut 1 had a toucii of bilious fever and was completely hor.'i de coinlxii. Gleiclien is only about fifty miles from Calgai'^ - the handsome little town 3,100 feet above sea-level, the capital of the plateau prairie country, A\'hich has such a delightful climate from being" in the track of the Chinook winds — the warm airs from tin; (iull' Stream. It is beyond tin? poAver of the Canadian winter. And it was from Gleiclien that we got our first peep of the liockies to be described in a sul)- scquent chapter. I cannot close this chapter without recalling the words of Sir William Van Ilorne, the President of the Canadian Pacific Ilailwav, that of all the magni- ficent scenery on his line none im])ressed him like the prairie, with its sense of illimitability — even Avhen it lacked its spring and early summer glory of floAvers. I' ; ■i I. ''1 ttle over a CHAPTER XIX. IIAXFF: Till-: IKK.'KY MOCNTAIXS MADE EASY. rjnilE popular sliow ol' the Canadian Paci lie Piail- -'- way is " BanlV Sprinj^s," jj^enerally abljreviatcd to Baniy. It niii^lit be dciscribed as tlie Itiu'Lij Jfountdin.'i imule easy, For it \> right w]) in tlic llockies, I'our or live thousand feet above the sea, tlioui^'li the llazor-backed Mountain does tower anotlier five tliousand I'eet above the company's hotel. It must once have Ixm^i a i)lace of comniaiul- ing beauty ; no finer prospect could be imag'ined than that from the hotel Avindows in front. On the rii;]it tlie i^reat mountain rises like a shark's fi]i I'l-oni southern waters ; a\ hile on the left there is a sweejjiiiij;' view over the valley of the 13ow to tlie tuml)led sea ol' .\.lps beyond, streaked in the sun by snowdrifts and ii'laciers, and with a sky-blue river meandering- to their foot hills, crowned by those strange natural monuments, the "White Friars, locally known as the lloodoos, though for all the world like barefooted friars with turned-iqi cowls. The hard conglomerate of A\hich they are formed led to their preservation, Avhilc the softer dei^osits round them were Avaslied awav to the level of the "benches" on Avliich tliev I { ^P DAXFF: l IE ROCKY .UOf'XTA /\S MAPI-: EASY. 2(;:j stand. A marvellous river is this Bow llivcr, as tui'qiioisc-Lluc as the Limmatt, wh(?re it leaves the Zurichsce, or the Lake of Zug — a deep, wilful river, teariuu; in one i)lace throui^h ridges of rock Avith a mighty cataract, Avhicli approaches a waterfall in altitude, and, just helow, rolling floods of fabulous ; •* , • 3 1 , i Pacilic liail- y ahbreviatcd ls the liix'lii ; up in the hove the sea, does tower u? company's of command- magined than On the right 'k's tin from is a swee])iiig tumbled sea lowdrifts and andering to nge natural nown as tlie e barefooted onglomerate )reservatio]i, vere washed which tlu'v BANFF: VIEW FROM C.P.R. HOTEL LOOKING DOWN THE BOW VALLEY. [Notnw.n. depth, like the mighty Fraser. The hotel, whose appearance is familiar to every one, from the famous view taken with the Peak Mountain and the Bow Valley in the background, is a most sumptuous aifair, as palatial as a Monterey or Saratoga hotel, while right away up in the finest scenery of the Rocky Mountains. : 3': ' H t.1 U' 264 o.v Tin: CARS axd off. 's Jianll' docs, indocd, present i\w Amoricaii cockney or invalid with the llockv Mountains made eas\ . A very towny 'bus, a much more luxurious all'aii than tlu* Fit'tli Avenue staii^e, which caters for the smartest people in New York, conveys the passengei> for the tA\o miles from the station to the Banif Sj^rinos Hotel, Avhicli is nowhere near the Springs. You can hire a fly, for all the world like a Brighton fly, with a pair of horses, to drive you over excellent, gravelled roads to the Devil's Lake, or to very near the toj) of the big mountain. The American cockney spends all day in driving about in these flies, and all night long in l)uying ten-by-eight photographs. The hotel is magnificently situated on the top of a little hill, a sort of cub to the big mountain, and is extremely picturesque in itself, something like a wooden com- bination of the Tudor hall and Swiss chiilet ; perhaps one might call it a Tudor chalet, so full of gables and terraces and Swiss balconies and tall chimneys is it. Inside, of course, it presents great attractions to tli( summer-resorter, with its hundred or two of guests, its great hall with baronial fireplaces, and three or four tiers of galleries and its luxurious drawing- rooms ; though the dining-room is not so good, being too reminisceiit of an Italian convent turned into a barrack. Banff really has springs, I never saw better ; both the Canadian Pacific and the Sanitarium Hotels have tlnnr own, and the Grand View high up on Sulphur Mountain has a particularly virtuous si)i'ing, as is attested by the number of crutches i. { 'ricaii cockncv IS made oasv. xiirious ailaii caters for tlic the passengers Banit' Si^riiiafs igs. You can liton fly, with lent, graveUed near the top ockney spends and all night IS. The hotel e a little hill, is extremely wooden com- lalet ; perhaps of gables and ihimneys is it. actions to the rwo of guests, and three or ous drawing- 10 good, being turned into I never saw le Sanitarium View high up irly virtuous of crutclu's ^ llAXFr.- THE nnCKY .VOrXTAfX.'^ MADE FARY. L'i'.r) festooning tlie bath-house, like tlu^ miracle remnants at th(^ shrine of the good St. Anne below (^>ii('l)ec. There are also battalions of em])ty ]Jass bottles on lh(» dust heaji near the spring, signiiicant, I suppose. *\->. i^,-^^^^^^.^' ''if '■■ '■ V.^^I^T, •'; ^^V.^^ BANFF. "THF, POOL.' [NotiMin, of the prevailing malady — spirits are not allowed in th'' Xorth-Wcst Territory. In these piping days of peace with the emasculated Hedskin, the North-AVest Mounted Police are chiefly maintained for the suprcssion of spirits, which may only be introduced by a Government permit. At odd hours during tlu^ day these stalwart, red-coatox, doini? his best to look unconscious, hut the same individual Avhen he goes out with his little red jacket, and his forag(^ caj) trying to tumble oil* his liead, and a fourteen-incli cane in his left hand — the Apollo of the nursery- maid. But to return to the Higher Spring. It is not so niucli frequent(Hl, except by those who really are very bad, as the ]Middle Spring and Government Baths. The Middle Spring is not yet open for bathing, but it is a little gem — just such a fountain of eternal youtli as one can imagine the Indians leading Ponce; dc Leon to visit, or a Greek Naiad choosing for licr liome, so I called it The jXuiad's Dell. The water, it is true, is sulphur-blue, and has a beard of white flux and dark emerald-green moss. But it issues from a cave shapcnl like a vast shell, Avith dark passages leading oil' to unknowii distances, and it floAvs into an ideal little dell, Avi^h concentric rings, rising from the Avater's edge, of red sedge ; tall grass ; Avhite daisies and purple madonnas ; thickets of shrubs ; and pine trees. The Government Baths are a delightful institution. For tAventy-five cents one gets a bath and toA\eIs; and these sulphur l)atlis are as delightful as thoy are health-giving. There are tAvo of them used alternately, one time by the gentlemen, and the next /LlNFr.- THE ROCKY MOrXTAfXS MADE EAf^Y. 2t',7 iiniso i\ search Hioy cultivate, ranee -not tlie ' sitting; ii])()ii a ini? his Invst to icliial wlien )ii> his i'orai,p(? cap . fourtcon-iiicli I the nursei'v- . It is not so really are wyy •nment iJaths. hathinn^, l)ut it ' etcn-nal youtli ing' Ponce de losing' i'or lioi* 'he water, it is white flux and s I'rom a cave; es leading' oil' an ideal little the water's es and pm-ple trees. 1 institution. and towels; tful as tliev them used and the next ■I I)V tlie ladies — the opcm hasin and tlui cave, liotli are hig-lily sulpliuretted. The l)asin is a pool in the elbow of i\w hill-side, clear as glass, Avith big springs bubbling U]) ijito it. One, eight feet deep, aiul with a sandy bottom, is surrounded at tin? (Hlg(\s witli a ([ueer lioneycombed lormation drip])ini^ Avith A\ater, which I'ossilises everything, like the i'amous droi)i)ing well at ^[atlock Baths in Derl)yshire. Its tem- |)eratiu'e is about 80" Fahrenheit, and it is big enough for a good swim and deep enough I'or a good dive. The cave is the weirdest place. Oiu3 walks along a hmg stalactite passage, dimly lit, reminding one of the cave tensile of the Japanese Venus at Enoshima, and suddenly emerges into an exquisite cave thirty or fo)'ty feet across, the sliajjo of tlui interior of a beehive, with its rocks in the form of so many gigantic shells, dimly lit by a hole in the roof, and lilled with deliciously warm water hy ever-flowing suli)hur springs. Before one plunges in, the atmosphere seems as warm as a Turkish bath ; when one comes out it is delightful to stand about in the voluj)tuous air, leisurely drying oneself. Here, too, one can have a good swim. There were two beautiful swimmers at Banff when we were there, a Mr. B and his wife. Oddlv enough, they lived in ordinary life on a ranch somes where in the Calgary district, which was so dry that not only was bathing, but washing, out of the question. Plenty of times they had more spirituous liquors to I ij I ' ',•* )' > 1' 36A OA* Tin: CMIS AM) OFF (li'iiik tliim \v;it(M'. Tlicv had taken an cnnttv cottaLic. Mini had to hriiiu' (low n pots and |»ans ;ind cvcrythin.; Avith them, inchidini;' tlic tahh*, wliich lost its h«'^s in the action, l)nt tlicy cut lu'w ones in the uarch'ii. Next in attraction to the l)aths comes driviiii; I BANFF. "THE CAVK." (Stitiifi'l r/rotto, containing tcurni sid/ild'.f pool.) to L'lke ^liunowonka, more pojjularly kiioAvn as tlie Dv^vil's Lake, and caiioeiui^ to the beaut il'ul s\\ami) known as the Vermilion Lakes. TIk; lattci' is more; poinibir, because it does not dig so deep into your i)ui'se ; but the former is well Avorth doing', il it is onlv once ; the drive is but eii»'ht miles, and you pass under the Cascade Mountain with its stonr I m|)ty ('()tl;iL:i . 1(1 cvcrytliiim lost its Ic-s tli(» ii'iirdcii. )in('s (Iriviiii; ¥ knoAvn as lie beautit'ul Tho latter so deep into •til doiiii;', ir miles, and itli its stone HAM'/': rin: H'n kv moisi'mss madi: r.Asv. 'jiiu ,,,,, and luvsteiloiis cascade, tliroimii a valley not ,,U,.,, ,M|iiaiIed r«>i' wild desolation ; lor its (picer • ■ l„.iielns '" lia\c l)een s\\e|»1 Ity lire, and tlie uales dl' tli(« (Mininov and the snows of the w inter have strewn CASCAUK CANON ON TllK ROAD TO Till:; DKVILS LAKIO .Y"(...".i. the hlackened pine trunks until tlie valley reminds one of Kzcddel's vision ol' tlie dry hoiuvs. it is a weird, hlaek lake, the Devil's J.ake, and full of monster lake tiumt. Dr. AVebl), who married :\Iiss \ anderhilt, can^'ht a I'orty-eig'ht pound trout there on I ii' 1 im. W 270 OX THE CARS AND OFF. his great crip to the West. On the way to it there is as beautiful a little canon as one can see in America, a clean cut through perpendicular walls of rock. Another charming lake near Banff is Lake Louise, (best reached by taking the train to Laggan), at the foot of the vast helmet-shaped mass of Mount Lefroy, the monarch of the Canadian mountains. Thence a three-mile walk through delightful 'woods brings one to a lake about two miles long of turquoise-blue water, fed by a vast glacier running almost doAvn to the water, and tAvo still smaller lakes on the friiifj-e of the glacier higher up the mountain. All around are vast dark pine Avoods, and at the nearer end ;i sweet little chalet, with a big dining-hall, a kitchen, and half a dozen guests' rooms. One of the greatest living landscape painters, Albert Bierstadt, whose l^ictures have immortalised the forest primaeval of California and the buffalo days of the North- West, spent much time there a few years back preparini^' a great canvas. A mile from the falls, a couple that can handle a canoe pass up a clear creek, now a grating shallow;-, now a deej) glassy pool with a white sand ])ottom, almost untenanted by fish, into a most fascinatinii' little slough, Avliere nothing but a birch-liark could thread its wav tlirouii:h the tall over-hani^ini? tufts of hay-grass, fire weed, and golden-rod. Anon it widens and loses itself among the reeds ; a startled, white-tailed eagle soars, some ducks whirr away. I Y to it there can sec in liar walls of jakc Louise, gan), at the 3iint Lcfrov, Thence a s brings one rquoisc-hluc Dst down to 1 the frin ■:i\ia'< p- * -1^- m ox Till-: CARS A XI) OFF. Dover Castle, chai'cicteristic ot riAer valleys in tlic Canadian North- West. Our last tAvo days in BanlV Averc clear, cloudl(^ss days, so gloriously fine that "the grasshojipers wei'c a l)ur(len," and tlu; river the jiurest turquoise, and niu'hts so moonlit that one could trace the outline BANFF. THE WHITE FKIAUS (XATUKAL MONUMENTS). [yot.al',,. of every peak in tlie amiihithcatre of the Rockies that encircled us. One lived the lotus life ; bathed in that most romantic hathing-place Nature ever devised — " The Cave " ; paddled up the grassy creek into the reedy lakes ; and after moonrise sat out in the soft night far enough from jarring voices to he ahle to hear the gahhlc of the river and the hoarse roar of the Avaterfall, BAS'FF: '1 llil ROCKY MOUNTAIXS MADE EASY. 273 AVe tried '^oth principal hotels, the Canadian Pacific and the Sanitarium ; the former cost nearly douhle as much as the latter, hut then it is a palace hotel, whereas the Sanitarium is the ordinary liotel Avliich is put up when the virtue of a sprini]^ first oecomes recoi^nised hy the ^,-isitations of rh(nimatics — I mean the i>nfients, not the iwdaJy. The Canadian Pacific Hail way Hotel lias a charm- ing' terrace to sun yourself on, and a walk leadini; down to the cascade ; hut then a difliculty comes in unless a walk of tAvo or thre(^ miles is a trifle not to be considered. The Sanitarium is just outside the town, at the very end of the l)rid2;e, over whicli horses have to proceed at a walk — a maddening Avay that they have in .Vmcn'ica to ensure one ai^ainst tlie delinqiumcies of hridi^M? engineers. Not that the town of Banff is much to 1)oast of. It has a few hundred inhabitants, who have suc- ceeded in making the surrounding woods and moun- tains more destitute of bird and beast and flower than the Park at Montreal. Though it consists of but a single street, it is horribly over-civilised. It has even a chemist, from whom, as far back as three or four years ago, you could buy Kipling's books in the unauthorised editions published by the Harpers. To make up for this, it has or had a very fine story-teller —the Government Inspector of something or other, to A\'hom Lord Wolselcy's successful conduct of the Hod Eiver Expedition was ai)parently due. He had 18 F f • ! •\ r ■ \ 4l ' ll t ' i ; ri I ;i u 274 ON THE CARS AXD OFF. schooled himself for this by destroyins^ Avhole armies of «»rizzly hears. Banff is one of the neAX stations of the North-West Mounted Police ; their harrack was a smart-look in <^' hungalow. It was at Banff that we met our fu'st China missionaries. Tliciy were not of the sort which puts on jngtails to join Mr. Hudson Taylor, or tlie famous criclvcter Studd, in the risks and isolation of an up-cc iitry mission, hut the other sort. It was four o'c ck in the morning, in the midst of a glorious anrise, owing- to the lateness of the train, when Ave started. I had been standing outside in the hitter cold, watching first the orange l)ars, and then the pink glow, fire the bluff white heads of the llockies. In the only waiting-room a mission-house service had been proceeding since midniglit for the missionaries going to the Avilds, though the wilds they Avere going to were probably a deal move civilised than the wilds they were leaving. There arc? less luxurious things in the Avorld than living in a " settlement " in the East, secure from risk, in a fine house, with a lil)eral income, and a capitation grant for every additional child. The ostler at the Sanitarium Hotel had suffered more in tlic service of Christianity than they Avere ever likely to suffer. ITe AA^as, by the Avay, a ncphcAV of the composer Brinley llichards, and had just received a legacy from him ; but that is neitln^r here nor there, except to illustrate th(; kind of anteccnlents many a man holding a menial position in the great Nortli- F BANFF: THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS MADE EASY. '275 lolo uriuics West or tho Australian Bush may have. lie was minus somo lingers and toes, which he had lost the year hefore, when he accompanied the Bishop of Rupert's Land to the Ultima Thule of Hudson's Bay Posts, right up in the Arctic Circle. When they got there they found a famine in progress, so there was nothing to do hut to turn out of the fort and throw themselves upon the mercy of a trihe of Indians in th(^ vicinity, who were moving off to a fresh hunting oTound farther north. All the winter throui:rh, with the thermometer 50" and 00° heloAV zero, tli(^ hishop and the ostler lived in tents with the Indians. A frosthite speedily deprived the latter of some of his toes, and soon after a gun accident hlew the fingers oft' on(.* of his hands. The good hishop doctored him — surgery comes hetw(3en cleanliness and godliness in the Arctic Circle — and they got hack in the fulness of time to ciA'ilisation, after living for Aveeks on moose meat, without any attempt at bread or potatoes. The principal inhabitant at Banff was Dr. Brett, a man of really uncommon energy. He was not only a very clever doctor, whose discovery of the value of Banff Spi 'ngs had established the fortunes of the town as a summer watering-place ; but he had also established the first hotel, the Sanitarium; a livery stable with capital horses for riding and driving ; a chemist's shop, both at Banff and Canmore (which latter, in the decline of the mining toAvn, looked after itself for six days out of the seven) ; and »■',•' ri; 270 o.v Tin-: cAns and off. was, to l)oot, Spoakcr of tli(3 Parliamont of tlio North- Western Territories, which meets at lleL^inti. But, Avith all his cneri^y, he was not so much in evidence as a Canadian Pacific llaihvay conductor, who was "-ivini? liimself a week olf. This wortliv took out a presentation gold watch all day loni,^, and was quite offended because Ave Avould not let liiiu " hire a team " and take us out for the day. ///s only real rival was the man who " had been a gentleman," and now ran tlic Bow llivcr steamer, a row l)oat Avith a wood-fir(5 engine, Avhicli took up nearly all the room that Avas left by the i)r()priotor's sense of importance. w n the Nortli- so much in conductor, liis "wortliy ij loni?, and not lot him e day. //w liad hcen a ,-cr steamer, ich took up proprietor's ■ji w M Ui u w H ;^ I M ■ ii :,| ! '11 ti;iii CHAPTER XX. FLYING THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS: FROM liANFF TO THE GLACIER. TT^LYING throuu:li the mountains from BcanfP to r North Bend presents a diorama not easily matched in the world. It begins even earlier, for as soon as daylight overtakes you, somewhere on the foot hills round Calgary, i. confronts you, with a spectacle beside which the Bernese Oberland sinks into insignificance, the long line of the Rocky Mountains, which you have been reading about and drcamini'' about since von were a child, filling the liorizon west and south with a mighty wall, Avhose l)attlements are alternate rock and snow. The queer river benches, through which you are passing, rise terrace above terrace, planed off with the fijcometrical regularity of military earthworks, and, some sixty miles on, you come to the gate of the Rockies — The Gap. Once admitted, and hurtling on towards Canmore and Banff, besides the sky-blue river, you see that the Avail was no mere illusion of distance, but that the whole range in this part is a castellated formation of an extraordinary beauty, the castellations being picked out with snow. No sooner is Banff passed than you are under Mount Edith, l^\. -i''l<.0 if vy I •-'7H O.V 77//:,' CAJiS AM> OFF. surely tlic world's most precipitous peak, sofiriiii; to heav(Mi like an upturned whelk of viri^in roek. Then ilow by mountains ui)on mountains like waves of the sea, stormy white waves round Mount Edilli, waves as rosy as the rocks of Devon on the opposite CASTLK MOUNTAIN', AND A C.P.U. VELOCIPKDE. side, dominated by the climax of the castellated forma- tion, the great isolated Castle ^lountain, risini^ like a veritable castle of the Middle .V«^es. It recalls King EdAvard's Castle at Conway, with its tiers of round brown Saracen towers cursed by Gray's " Bard." It is, as it were, an outer ballium of six great towers, with a turreted keep above, and topping that, a T" FLVINd Tit ROUGH Till-: MOiryTAlXS. •>7< 71) coiiicHl inoiiolitli like the Castlo of Nui^oya, .lapan's noblest IciJ^acy of mediaeval architect iiro. More inouiit{»ins succocd : Lcfroy, the monareli ol' tlio Canadian Rockies, the slja])(; of a knight's helmet left by the brink of a dark lake ; and Stephen, perhaj)s tlie most imposini? of all from its massivcv ness and position. Its liui^e dome and compactness reminded me curiously of St. Paul's Cathedral, and it rises sheer from a Hat river bed, stolen from itself in the course of ages l)y the Kickiiii^'horse lliver, Avhicli sometimes makes the whoh; valley look like a lake with a hui^e yellow flood, and at others is an insii^nificant rill, smothered in broad sands like a brook on the seashore. !Mount Stephen, Avith its terrilic shoulders and flanks cloaked in j^rim matted forest, is most awe- some, like an evil giant guarding with supernatural terrors its vast treasures of silver. High up on the mountain-side vou can see the galleries of the silver miners, Avho let their ore and themselves down by an almost vertical cable tramway. Right under the mountain is the little Field Hotel, a pleasant cliAlct, like the Glacier House, mostly dining-room, because the train stops here for meals, to save the haulage of a dining car through tli(^ mountains. It is said that ncnther hotel manager nor servants ever stay licre long, fearful of going melancholy mad, so depressing is the personality of the mountain. The manager when we Averc? there; had stayed lonu-er than usual : ho said he " Avasn't •i^ %^ ■I (I ♦ yt. i :.h: f 980 o.v T/n: r.i/.'N .\.\'i> off. nlVaid of tlic Miic devils" ; ])(M'1ihi)s tliis was iM'caiisr lie was II v(M'y active man, accustoiiKMl to heard llir luouiitain in i)iii'siiit of tlu5 bearded wiiitc Itockv if^S^n^: ,>, < £^_.. ^ ^J^^^^K* % 1 :. ■ ' ■ i I ^^^Hk^C???^' ' Ifc, WS^^m^-- '■' ^Hjt£,f '. i'3 ■""!!' , n|3;. ".I ' 11 1 1 '^■■^ "*^ '";' ;. .1 1 *^ fwi ( ^ •'v.; ■ \ . .... '' ^ 1 i 'r ■ i:mi:;uald laki;. {Holiiitm, ]M()untaiu goats, Avliicli arc as large as antoloi)es. lie had also a great cyG for the picturesquo ; he showed us a Avouderi'ul natural arch, Avherc the fu^rcc torrent had with a cataract torn its wav throuji-h the rock, leaving a thin turf-covered stratum completely FL)J\ ror(>st and hair precipice, rellectcd in its piaci' children in thecal). [ su])i)ose that this is hii^hly irr(^L;ulai', hut " it is a far cry to l^ock Aavc " — and ruk\s are liherally interpreted in the Rockies. The scencrv that succeeds I'leld is almost indescrih- ahlc. Lonu' hefore vou m't to Field vou cat eh vour first 2jlim])se of Hector ami the hig* i^-reen glaciers, which look like overllowintvs from " the I'lassv sea " on Hector and the hills heyond ; for, Avith the hills ahove and the rivers helow, this sceiKny is unsur- passed (Mcn on the Canadian Tacific Ilaihvav. The ;,p 1 . I k ■*>^ / • ■ . i> > !' Jliill ! !i.l ' |i' : I 282 Oy THE CARS AND OFF. fierce torrent, from which tlie Kickiiighorsc Canon is named, stampedes like a waterfall all the way through a deep gorge, that almost rivals the i)eerless gorges of Australia. As you fly past you cross a valley glorious with the; glacier of Mount Hector and the green terraces of Mount Stephen, and an infinite depth of dark pines. Wliat follows simply baftles descrij)tion. Leanchoil, Avith its clustered pyramids of grey stone streaked Avitli A\']iite, where they are not too steep for snow to lodge. Lady MacDonald, with its nohle jieaks. Sir Jolm MacDonald, Avitli its hison back and classic irout, have few equals in pyramidal mountain scenery ; and t\m Otter Tail and Kicking- horse llivers, Erench-grey A\ith glacial A\'aters, )*ace side hy side. How glorious the beautiful open valley looked in the sunset, with its pines and the tree-top j)ed river benches, and the shining delta and Leanchoil liftiui? its stee])l(; to lieaven ! Bevond Palliser the mountains come; together, Avithin a stone's throw, soaring thousands of feet from the black chasm disputed by t\m railway and the river — the famous Kickinghorse Canon. The railway crosses and recrosses the torrent, like a salmon fisher, to utilise every available ledge. At last Golden City is reached, and you get the first view of the Selkirks— more? majestic even than the Rockies. Golden City is about the most inappro- priately named in the Avorld. It is called " golden " apj)arently from tlie silver mines of Spilliniichene in f!|; FLYING THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS. 283 atcrs, i*ac(; the neighbourhood — by no means the immediate neigh- bourhood. Why it is called a " city " heaven only knows, for there is nothing of it beyond a post-office, a public-house, and a store or two — all built of wood. At Golden you first strike the mighty Columbia, one of the great rivers of the continent ; and once a week the funniest little steamer in the world, a sort of stcrn-Avheeled scow, takes you up to the source of the river in the exquisite Canadian Windermere, about a hundred miles above. At Golden there was a very genuine Western hotel, in which the landlord thought us exceedingly impertinent for troubling him with our presence. Apart from elemental con- siderations, there is nothing old about the mountains. The oldest inhabited spot in them is Moberly (half- way down from Golden to Donald), and that only dates from 1871. Mr. Walter Moberly, C.E., had a cabin there. From Golden to Donald the raihvay runs l)etween the rival ranges, the rugged llockies and the steepled Selkirks. Donald is quite a town, so important that it is one of the places Avhere they put back the clock for an hour to correct the sun's ridiculous habit of orienta- tion ; it has also nine hundred inhabitants, and a resident engineer, for it is the headquarters of the mountain section of the railway, and has the repair si) ops. But even the engineer has not got beyond u shack, or log hut. We stayed with him a niglit, our only experience of log huts. Mr. G , the engineer, a most brilliant Welshman, and his pretty P r :^ " ■ »■ ' > I "^1 r'l I. X •'., ,*, •JS4 ().\ Till'. CMiS AM) OFF. yoiiiii;' \vil'(» and si.sicr, had made the sliack a most dcliujhtrul place to livo in; it. was just like living' on board shij), oxcr])t for the ci'(M'|)(M's wliicli clinilx'd over tlic linj^-o loij^s of wliicli it was I)nilt. If is wondorl'ul wlia.t a lady's taslc will do with llic roui^'hcst niatiM'ial. .lust hclow Donald tho Colnnihia is nianiiiruMMit— a lino broad riviM* swcopinn' ronnd an aiinlc between lol'tv, Avoodcd banks. Twenty oi' tlnrlv miles IVoni Donald one cannot repress a I'eelini;' of exnltatioii ; the scenery is an ins])iration ; the railway mounts a hundred and sixteen I'eet to tin* nnle I'or miles toL!:etluu'. A thousand I'cM^t below is a broad sweej)inL^' vall(\v, with a i^'reen i^'lacier river windini;' throni^li it. aJid hui;(^ tree-clad hills lu^yond, now, alas ! desolattnl bv lire. It was tin* likest thini'' I have seen to an Australian i;'ori;'e, and, tlioui;h the \\\\\i^ M(nuitains of Australia are Hat-topped hills oi' no conuuandini;' luM'u'ht or form, tluM'r i^or^-es, such as (lOVi^tt's Leaj), are unniatchable — clel'ts into tlie (Nirth's i;T(»at heart, Ieai»'U(^-loni;' and niilr-wide, so shcHM" that thev look as if tluM'r sides had becMi united once and torn asunder bv the hands of •••ods. Tlie i;()ri;"es oi' the Selkirks lack the tremendous ])reci])ices and tlie vast s^recMi cushion of forest at the bottom, but the mountain-to])s are incom]>arably IIium*. Xothin"' in the Avorld could excel the maiestv ol' the ])ass between MacDcmald aiul the ll(n'niit, a I'ew mil(>s on ; with their j^ables and ])innacl(»s and s])ir(»s, they make om^ feel as if one Avere bonu^ between the walls ri.YiM; rnuovaii riii-: moimw/xs. •JHfj of M I'oollcss (Joiliio minster. I*»iit to liai'k b.'ick ; MS tlic tr.-iiii ('liml)s tlic stvcp iii(umt!iiii-si(l(^ ovcr- liMiii;ini;' the valleys ol' the IJeavcr and Jicav Ci'('(>k tlie nunmtMin air i;i'()\vs siin|)ly inloxiciitiiiL;-, nor is there anv lack of marvels. At sliort. intervals noble TIIK llMaiKST MlUIXiK IN TlIK WORM) (STONY CItl.KK). \Si,l,„.'in. nr ■,ifH • !?• ■•(^ »■ rr I I., 4^ %\ ' * ; cascades t.imible down lln^ mountain-side; spanned by tinilxM' bridi^'es oi' tremendous heii^bt, one of tliem, the famous Stony Creek IJridjjje, liavini*; timber j)iers no less tlian two liundr(;d and nin(;ty-six leet h'v^h, ])er]iai)s tlie bii^liest in tb(> worbl. A watchman examines it dav and nii-'lit to see tliat no ihiw (h'veh)))s in the massive; l)olted and truss(;d timlKM's. 1 1' .- t Jtti j I ; i) 286 OX THE CARS AXD OFF 'f: I*. i! Looking up another of these cascades, one sees a nameless mountain almost as graceful as Mount Edith in the elhow of a wooded gorge. Mount MacDonald towers a mile and a quartet' over Rogers' Pass, the gap by which the railway crosses the Selkirks, and the Hermit on the left is almost as high. Both rise, a stone's throw apart, almost sheer, and must surely have heen one. Eor a long time there was believed to l)e no gaj), and tlie singularly hardy exploring party, whose success is recorded in the name of the station (llogers' Pass), nearly perished in the attempt. The hardships the party went through I heard from the lips of one of them, the hardy and adven- turous French Canadian who commanded and almost manned the little stern- wheeler in which w(i navi- gated the great Columbia. The chief of the party, an American, Avas an insomniac. His one cliance of getting sleep was to work himself to exhaustion in the bulk of the hours usually devoted to slumber, and he expected others to do the same. Added to overwork were cold and starvation. One of tli(^ most difficult forms of nourishment to do without, in the frosts of Canada as in the burning deserts o1' Australia, seems to be sugar. Captain Armstrong told me that the only time he was ever a thief Avas Avhen he had walked about tAventy miles from their camp to a settler's hut to try and get some provisions. His mates Avere all ravening for sugar, and the settler gave him a pound Avhich FLYING Timor Gil TIIK MOUNTAINS. •287 had gone bad. On tlio Wixy liom(3 ho apportion(Kl liimsclf his fair shave of tliis jxn'isliod sweet, because lie felt that he coukl not Avait a minute Ioniser ; and KXTKRIOR OF THK SNOW SIIKI) AT 'I'lIK (il.AClKU IlOU.Sli STATION. [Notnw.n. then, like a tiger which has tasted human blood, he could not resist the temptation^ and, stealing tin; others' share, he ate it all, and ignored the subject on his return. Roujers' Pass is bv Mav ol' l)ein"' a town. It had. ^M b ■M , i ■ ■^:1 ' '1, » I A .^ W, i; I ^i^ 288 ON THE CARS AND OFF. wiien wo wore tlicrc, to support this claim, two liotols, the " Queen " and the " Brunswick," a post-office, a ipeneral store, and a hush-fire ; it is also a Govern- ment Park, hut up to date it had no outward and visihk; sign to distinguish it from the most undis- tinguished portion of the ocean of mountains all round. The Ghicier House is ])ut four miles from llogers' Pass, and just hefore you reach it is one of the finest snow sheds on tlie line. It is this part of the line east and west where the snow ij^ives most trou1)le in the winter ; in the summer, snow shed.> are more of a hiirden than the grasslioi)pers, Avhicli is saying a good deal in the North- West. Ther(.' are fifty-three of them almost as close as lamp-posts, and they have not all the luxury of aii outside line for summer use. thougli the one at the Glacier House, being in the midst of matchless scenery, has. Snow sheds are pent-houses built of enormous l)eams of Douglas fir, fifteen inches square, and Avith prodigiously thick sloping roofs, Avitli all sorts of slants and guards. Tliey are fortifica- tions against the artillery of the mountains, the dreaded avalanche that folloAvs the mountain fire, for Avhen once the treses are burnt off these steep slojies there is nothing to break the incubus of the snow. Standing on tlie roof of this particidar shed Ave saAV clearly tlui resistless might of the avalanche, Avhicli had sAvept across the valley and many feet \\\) the oj)posite mountain-side, mow- ing doAvn the trees as if they Avere grass. The FLYIXG THROUGH THE MOI'XTAIXS. >H\) valh'V was littcu'cd with tlic trunks like s2)lit i)iatcli(\s. Ill tlic summer the sun-dried slieds are in ])eril of fire from chance sparks, and barrels ol" water stand at short int(n'vals aloni-- their roofs. In this niountain-lienimed valh'v tlie roo'.* of the snow shed "^IMI • mgfr ^ ^imi^kM ^ j|^| ^*^.'... , ^: -mi^m^m '^ ■ -.■ ■^•^■"'•■-"fr-' -t , •■ nn -''V • ^^^|^.M»-^ .^^mimi • it t"^^'''^' k^ ' .^. ^.f^M^J '-•C" * . ■ ■ , if m-- -•-- ^^^■..•v "'' . ■^^^-- fmm^^SSISiM ■^^m «*. .^c-^.^'- P^ni^^ ^^^^^^n THE LOOP. [AV,„ was one of tlic most popuhir promtMiades. The snow shed Avas our piece de resistance above the station as tile Looj) Avas hek)w. Tlie Loop is a marvellous piece of enij^ineerin^'. 1 11 order to make the swift descent of five hundred I'eet l)etween the Glacier llcmse and lloss's Teak tlui I'aihvay descril)es two circles, twice douhlini;' back 19 \h' 200 ON THE CARS AND OFF. Oil itself, as will l)o socii from the picture. Ono of the timl)or viaducts or trestles employed in tlic operation is more than a mile louii^. Most places in the world are oi)presscd hy liaviim to live up to the memory o1' some illustrious pei'son- ai?e Avho has visited them. The Avaiter at the liotcl at Lyiiton Avill not give? you your hreakfast till lie knows if you have read " Lorna "^>oone " ; and in Edinhuri^h Mary Queen oF Scots sticks to you like a poor relation. In the Selkirks you sulTer from Lady MacDonald, or T sliould say Lady Earnscliife. Tlic very porters kno^^" her description of the lin(> by Iieart. Lady MacDonald, it appearcMl, liad li'oiic down the Loop on the coAA-catclier in front of an enu'ine. Wishinu;' to show us the heij^lit of lios])i. tality, Mr. Marpole, the divisional superiuteudent, invited us to do ditto. There was no eiii>'iii(> at liand Avitli a cow-catcher attaclied, hut he said tliis did not sig'nify ; we should l)e all riij^ht on ilic platform to which the cow-catcher ouLijlit to he attached ; th(^ platform was only al)out a foot w idc. and had .lotliiuii^ to hold on to, l)ut he did not scmmu to think this siii;nilied either. " If an old lady like that can do it," said Mr. Marpole, A\ith a merry twinkle in his eye, " surely younij;- people like you can venture." So off avc started. AVlien we mcmc on the mile-long trestle, he ()1)served cheerfully that it Avould not h(? thought right to take a passenger train at the rate we were going. We felt all tlic time as if tlu' engine was a hig dog whicli we wvw -*•*' FLVrNG TIIROUGn THE MOUNTAINS. •2'.tl leadini,^, doini^ its l)(»st to tug itself loose, and the hi'cczo it mado swept up our lei^s as if they had Ixmmi ventilators. But w(; did get hack, and then ^Ir. ^Lai'pohi divulged that Lady MacDonald had sat in an THi; ALBERT CANON'. THUEt; HUNDUED FEET DEEP. [Silt i.nui. ai'mchaii' made fast to a platform huilt out on the cow-catcher. He personally was as wiry and acti\ c as a })anther, and did not know what fear meant. Tlie hottom of the Loop lands one in the heautifiil lUccilliAvaet Valley, soon to he defaced for ils I r \ V ] I . ,- \i I'd ' I, m^' ON Tin: CAUH AND OFF. t i:-' ■ ? : trojisiircs. Already its loUy mountains, bristlini;' with pines like tlie ((uills of a porcupine, are spattered almost to Hieir summits by little hob's with heaps of yellow earth outside them, like the work of human rabhits ; and lying* unj^uarded under a shed dvo hau^s and hai^s oi' silver ore, hroug'ht down on mules' backs. Not far below is the linest canon, tlio famous Albert Canon, wlicre a Avild catai'aet tears throui^h a black, precipitous i^oiii^e, three hundred fet;t deep and only about twenty feet wide. The mountains o\erhead are forested to their summits. The railway company lias oblig'inj^ly built a ])lat- I'orm over it, and the passengers swarm out in a *' Mansion House, all change hcrc^ " sort of way, and most of them either turn back with a dissatislied aii', or try to take vertical shots with a kodak. Aller this Ave descended rapidly to lievelstoke, but not any too rapidly fov people goiiig doAvn hill in an Ohscrraiion Car. 1 spent most of my time in tryinu' to invent a patent to prevent the Avastc? of coal dnst with Avhicli tin; enijjinc funnel douched us, and the pretty girl fled from the coal storm i?ito the sAvy^c/' and read " Geoffrey Ilamlyn " for the tAventietli time, Avhich recalls a double-distilled reminiscence. "When I Avas in Ncav York in the spring of 1891, [ had occasion to refer to " Geolfrey Ilamlyn," because T Avas doing the Australian part of the great " Cen- tury Dictionary." I went to the Mercantile Library, and asked for " Geoffrey Ilamlyn." The clerk, Avitli FLYING TUHOVdlf Till: MOfXTAIXS. •JIM youni? American assiirancr, said tlior(» was no suoli hook. 1 pointod it out to liiin in tlui catalogue, and ho at onco said, "You sliould have asked foi- the ' Ilccollcctions ol' ({colVi'cy llanilyu.' " I tlioreupou i^'niv(dy ask(Ml liini Tor the " Pos^^Iiunious I'apcrs of tlu! Pickwick Clul)." lie liad not tlic least suspicion tliat I was •' i^-uylng' liim," and, al'liM* hustling' al)()ut, camo hack to say tliat this was not ill the lihrary cither. I tohl tliis story at the tinn; over my own name in a New York paper. A year ui^'o a Chicago correspondent pahiied this " literai-y " experience off on the DdUy Grajthic, as liavin*^ happened to himselt' at a puhlic lil)rary in Chicai;'(j. The story had apparently hecn two whole years " on tlie road " in America, ' f 1 1 ^^ ■% ■ ■-, > i-, ,; • niAi'Ti:ii \\i. /■///• <;i:r.\r <./ m in; or nil- sii.hii;hs, I I' H.iiilV ic|)ivs<«iils ||m> IJockv Moiiiil;iiiis iii.kIc <'ns\. ilir (ll;n'i('r Mouse rr|»i'('s(>iils llir Srlkii-Ks in.i(I(> c.isN ;i niiicli iiiuiT ii()l:il)li> iH'rluriimiicc, Ini- lh«'s(> inoiiiitnins li;i(| loiii;' hccii I('l;mi'(I<<(I ;is iiii|i;iss- • il)l<' l)\ riiLiiiKM'riii!;'. The (llMcici- I louse is ;i I mi M's l»e\ Olid llou ers I' 'ISS, ill 1 1 le iiiKlsl ol eu lie line s UTe.ilesi marvels ol' iiahire .mimI eiiniiieeriiiu'. ,liis| lieioie eoiiiiN lli(> monareli ol' snow slieds ; jiisl aliove I he monareli of glaciers ; jusl lielou (lie monareli ol viadiiels. Tlie(ireal (ilaciiM' of I lie Selkirks eoiiies lo a eoneliisioii williiii a couple of miles aI>o\e it. The moraines and splinlered Torc^sls at ils fool idj .1 iViiihtrnl lale of deslruelion, and (lie ulaeier ad\ anees «>\ «M'v V(>ar ; lull onlv a few inelies, so the hotel is sale I'or the pr(>seiil. 'i'he hotel is a pi'(Mt\ little chalet, mostly diiiiip''- room, with a trim h>V(>l lawn in IVont contaiii- iiii;' a tine rountain. A roiintain is so easy w lien \(»ii ha\(^ a lake at the lop of the mountain alxnc \ou : it is also usiH'uJ if vow have a i2-ri/,/lv hear tlial .si)ravs hims«dr w h(Miev(M' he feeds the heat oppi-essive. This ])articulai' i;i'i/.zly was there I)v iinilatieii; il.'iiiis m.-idc lie SrIKirKs it'injiiuM', lor MS impMss- sc is M lew 1)1' llir line's 'I'iii'j,. 'Iiisl ; jlisl ;ilit)\ (• iiioii.-ircli III ■ ' ' s CDinrs IiuNc it. its Tool t(-ll \\r W Tin: (iiiiiAi' (ii,.\('ii:i{ iU' rill si:i,i\ oj' I he jislcnrr. 'I liidirs iiliunl |(» l.'ikr Ihc \ niriicui <-liil(| llii-(ni<;li llii> \\(M»(ls lo sec M nJjK'ici', Ihc |»r<»s|M'('l ul' nicrl ini:,' Mrs. () •TIIK <)lli;.\l' ii\,M'\\,\i OK Tin; ^;i;i,i<||(KS. I .V\<' o))|)r('ssi\ (' invil.Mtioii (lri//lv with Ji r.nnilv, or Mr. (»ri//lv on conrlsliip iiilcnl, wjis not. r(S'issiirinL^'. I5nl to i;('ntlrnirn in (jHcsi ol' clicMp Mdvcnlnrc, wiml. more ;itt met iv<^ .•ulvcM'tisciucnt. conid y sprayed all over the garden in his delight. I never kncAV until I Avent to tlie Glacier hoAV fond land hears Avere of hathing. While he was having his hath a man ascended one of the telegraph poles — the hotel and raihvay station are as intimately associated Avith each other as hread and hutter. Xo sooner A\'as Bruin out of his hath than lie up and did likcAvise to the next pole, avoid- I 1-v (' •,. *■>*':. n :; 300 ON THE CARS AND OFF. iiii? the wires and insulators as caroi'ull v as il' he wcic acquainted Avitli tlie deadly nature of electricity, and squatting- on the cross-trees when lie had gone through all his antics. When his master sat doM ii to rest, the hear nestled up heliind him ami stuck his nose in his hand. " When I travel," said Pieiic. " I pay nutting for a hed ; de hear is my hlanket — 'e is very loving." From the suhlimc to the ridiculous is often ;i very abrupt transition ; from the ridiculous to tlic suhlimc is a long climb — usuallv. I do not know that I ever did it so cheaply as when, within liali' an hour of a dancing-bear show, I stood at the foot of the largest glacier in the world. Eighteen miles l)road is the great glacier of the Selkirks, one foot of which is planted so threateningly above the liotel and the railway station, that it looks as if it meant to stamp them out of existence with the stealth of a thief in the night. A marvellous and delightful walk is it from the iio^^el to the glacier — at first through drv Avoods of f id spruce, and balsam and tamarack, carpeted. A revcr the sun breaks through, Avitli purple bluc- .^v^rries, wild raspberries, pigeon and salmon berries. Here you might meet a grizzly bear any minute. You pause, if you are only a man and a woman. on the lovers' seat under the thousand-ton boulder hurled doAvn by the glacier in the childhood of tlic earth. Then you pass the fierce glacial torrent of rey-green water, so cold or charged with impurities Till-: (IREAT GLACIER OF THE SELKfRKS. 3(il tliat fisli refuse to live in it, swellini^, as all snow-t'od I'ivcrs do, as the heat of a summer's day "vvaxos. .Some of its pools are huge and deep ; some of its falls h' THE FAIKY CAVEEN IX THE GLACIER, [J\'(;(//(rt.!. r id vapids as fierce as the cataract at Lorettc, rounded ooulders and splintered trunks everywhere attestiui^ its fury, l^he path crosses and recrosses \]u) river over bridges of tree trunks, with smaller tnndvs loosely ])inned across them, like the little « '■' '■, 'f.. ' '.' ; IIJ- '■' . J. I«! i i 302 0/V THf: CARS AND OFF. straw mats in which cream chooses are wi'a])p(Ml. As the path mounts, the scenery becomes more open, ai;cl you are greeted, accordino^ to the season, with Canada's i^or^eous lily or Canada's j)r()(lii^ality of wild fruits ; for you arc in the track of the ij;laei(M' rnd tlio avalanche, and in the death of the forest is the hirth oi blossoms and borries. All around you noAV is a scone of aAvful £?randeur — l)oulders as 1)in. as settlers' huts, and giant tree trunks, many ol them l)lackened Avith fire, tossed together lik(^ the rubbish on a dustheap, and, brooding over all, tlic groat glacier like a dragon crouching for the spvinu. One can hardly l)olievo it is the glacier ; tli<^ transi- tions are so abrupt. A turn of a path brings you almost in contact with a piece of ice larger tJian uuy lake in the Britisli Islands. From iuid(M' its skirts trickle tiny rills ; a few foot below, the rills hviguc themselves into a river. EY(i\i a first-class glacier is a disappointing afi'air if you go too close. Its bluoness disappears, also its luminosity, except in crevasses deep enough to sliow you the ])ure hcait of the ice. The surface is a dirtv-lookini>' mi.vtuiv of ice and snow. There wore two lovelv horizontal crevasses, one so sj)acious and shining that it is called the Tairy Cavern. The pleasure of standiuij' in them is spoilt, l)ocause they look all the time as if they wore going to close on you. Xi anotlier Tool of the glacier there are immense moraines, lookiui;' like the earthworks of Dover Castle. I examiiu'd them one October daA' wIkmi I went with a !>'ui(lo to THE GREAT GLACIER OF THE SELK/RKS. 303 the top of tlio glacier, eight thousand t'e(>!t above sea- level, to see the si)le]itlid glacier-girdled head of ]Moiint Fox on the other side of the a])vss. I never intend to do any more mountain clinil)ing through deep, fresh snow. For the last hour or two of the ascent the snow was as deep as oiu^'s thighs at every step, and though the guide Avas towing nie by a rope tied round my waist, it Avas int()leral)ly ■^»i'j^^^iis>»- ■''1 > •\: MOUNT FOX. CREVASSES IX FRON'T. \_Xolnai.ii. Avearisome. To begin Avith, he had to sound Avitli his staff at every step to sec that Ave Avere on fcrni firm((,iim\ not on the soufiletoi acrcA'asse; and though there had been such a snowfall tlu* night before, tlie sun AA'as as hot as summer overhead. The siglit Avas worth doing once, Avith tlu^ miles and miles of the sea of ice all rouiul one, and the long Avhitt; slopes of virn'in snoAV. If it had not been for the aivgressive visau'e of ( * 1 . :i'f- A^f :. 1 '* f ",'i 1 ^: ■ .'i n ;}04 ON THE CARS AND OFF. ]\[ount Fox, it would liavc aiisworotl to the description of the intevior of Greonhmd i^iven me hy Dr. Nanseii. where tlie workl consists of yourselves, the; sun, and tlu^ snow. We started at G\^\\t o'clock in the niornini^, hut in some way or other I was not quit(> as rapid is the gu'de had calculated, for a cou])l(' of hours ': I'ntr' aiL,h::fall he heij-an to ij-et excited, if not alarms' L U'e were at the time clear of the deep snow, and liC 'dlinp^ ahout in a mixture of drifts and moraines ; hut after dark he Avas not suk of his way until we struck the path at the foot oi' tlie glacier. It Avas pretty dusky l)y the time we did, so dusky that a spruce carouse that Ave came across alloAved him to take cock shots at it A\itli stones until he killed it. Jim, the s^uide, Avas a great institution at tlie Glacier House. He Avas not a Canadian, hut an American from Missouri. He Avore a handsome 1a fringed huckskin shirt, a soml)rero Avith a strap round it, and A'ery often mocassins, lie had a stroiii"' Face, l)iit it looked as if it had hcen used for prize lighting and after Avards stained Avitli Avalnut juice. AVhen no guest required his services at three dollars a day, he shot game for the estalilishment, recei\iiii;' in return a room and " the run of his teeth " all tli(> year round. It Avas he AAdio carried the hlankets and provisions and rifles to one of the l^ack ranges Avlioii a guest came along Avith sufficient energy to care for camping out, on the off-chance of shooting the snoAV-Avhite mountain goat or the golden-haired THE GREAT GLACIEH OF THE SELKIIiKS. 305 cinnamon boar, which liuntcrs j)crsist in dilVcr- cutiatini;' from th(^ i»'i'izzlv, tliouii'h scientists dcsfv thcrni with an identity ol' skclciton. W more than one sportsman was going", or the kit was h(\v()nd tlio ca))acity ot* the liuman beast of burden, he liad to tall back on the (•(ri/ii.s('.s oF the wicked-look ini»' •' Stony " Fndian, who erected his topees iji the hotel n rounds, and kept a few horses, in return for })astur(! for his beasts, and broken victuals for himself ai>d his s(piaw and the dear littk' pajjoose. The Indian was tlu; most stolid of nun'tals, (w 'pt when you photographed any of the family, wl ,:, i!< soon :is the operaticm was c()m])leted, he aoi ;d advance toward you and intimate with blood-cr lliug signs that the pers(m who was photogra])he(l ought to he paid— there are nervous persons wlio think so ill the most civilised countries. A dollar a sitting was ills view of e([uitable remuneration, but twenty- five ccnits re-strained him ivova actual assault. That no oiu' hired his luu'ses while Ave were there didn't trouble hini in the least, lie was at liberty to gorge thi'ee mouths on the wastetul leavings of three or I'oiu' dozen, and his iiorses were feeding themselves free of charge — and what more could an Indian want r He Avas a tall man, six feet high, and had a very fine-looking face of the pitiless and un- fathomabh^ ^yp^' used by the Pharaohs, if ^y(\ can trust the Avholesale Egyptian sculptor. His s((uaw was not bad-looking ; both of them worc^ fringed tunics and trousers, and cultivated a sullicientlv 20 I . f t , < r, t'. I , . ; ii • *• , ,1^' ;{iMi ox Till-: cAh's A.\/) nrr. Jicd Indian iis[)(>ct. 'V\w papoose was a dear lit lie tiling', just like; one; of Mioses dclii-ldriil flew cliildrcii tliat one knows will j^row up into a widc-nostrillcd ro|)erties to ha\(' at a station where both the east and west boumi trains. No. 1 and No. 2 (tliey have only two |)ass(Mi^'er-carryini;' and continent-crossing' trains a day on the Canadian Pacilic Railway), stoj) for luncli. There is notliini;' ol' " twenty luiiuites at Normanton Tor i-el'resliment " about a Canadian Pacitic liailway diniiii^'-station ; tlie train just stops till the last passen^-er is iinished, and, as far as I remeniber, tlie nianai^'er ol' tlie restaurant despatcli(vs tlie ti-ain. Tlie second-class passenL'-ers, who came on board the train with knapsacks lull of iiii- savouries, usually lunched oil' — teasinu' the hears, The Hrst-class })asseni»'ers hurried throui^-h an ex- 77//; ainiAT i;i..\('ii:n or riii: s/:r.K//,'Ks. ;{()7 ccllciit iiiciiii id tlic n'staui'Mut, and then li.ul hiilT ;iu lioiir to dawdle al)()iit the plaH'oi'ins, M-a/.iii^' at the ii'lacici', while (he ooiidiietor and slccpini^'-car |)()rters took a comrortahle liiiicli. A siii'i)i*isirii;'ly small proporfiou of the passeiii'-ei's take even a day olV at the i^laciei', thoiinh anv ainoimt of them will I'i ,« Tin; IIKKAUT, make ([uit(; a stay at Baiiil", wliein; there is uiiich less to see. The Glacier House has not onlv its ii()l)le and easily accessihle i^dacier ; it is in the very heart of tli(? tinest mountain scenerv in the Selkirks, wliieh is so dill'erent to tlie sc(MLei'V of the Rockies. The Canadian liocki(»s are hlunt-topi)ed, j'hsfi/ mountains, with knuckles of hare rock stickini*' out 308 ON THE (J Alt AND OFF. ovcrywlu'i'c. 'Vhr Sclkirks jut i^raecrul pvniiuids and sharp sierras, up to tluur shoulders in ni!ii;iii(k'('Mt forests ol* lol'ty ])iii('s. The tn'cs on the IJockics arc miicli smaller and poorer. llii;lit above llie liot(d, to the left ol' the overhan^iiii;' ;^'laci<'r, is the hare steeple of Sir Donald, one of the monarchs of the rani^c ; lioas Peak and Cheops frown on the descent of tiie line to th(^ Pacilic ; and the line to the Atlantic is L^'uarded hy the hundred pinnacles of the rifted mountain, formerly known as the Hermit, and noAv, with sini^'ular infelicity, re-christeiu'd, in ;iii e])onymous fit, i\roiint '^rupjx'r. Sir Charles Tujjper is one of Canada's greatest men, but his name is more suitahle for a i^-reat man than a grcsat mountain, c^six^cially sincc^ tliere is a very perfect elVect of a hermit and his doi^* formed 1)y boulders ncai* the top of tin; mountain. The men in t\u) railway camp have i?ot over this di/liciilty with the doii'iicrel : "Tliiit's Sir Cliiulrs Tiippei (iC)in the ran^c ; 'scont of tlic ; Atlantic is the I'it'tcd rcrmit, and (MH'd, in -Ml ia's ii,'i'cati'st a fj^roat man I) tlici'c is a doL;' I'onncd 11. Tlic men Ids diHiculty acicr llonsc, luv lilV tiiaii li its A'clvcty b mountains, orld twice a echoed tiicir ; throui^li the mned in witii ■*t n': Till-: (iiiEAT (U.Aciiiu or nil-: sei.kiuks. 309 ijfiant trees and i^'iant mountain pcniks toworiiii;' above them, and at tli(^ foot of a monstcM' ^'lacier, some ])eople i^et very depressed. Tli(^ pretty ijirl always expected to he swallowed up hy the gdacier in the nii:^ht, even if the mountains failed to fall upon her. AVhcn w<' L!,'rew enthusiastic over the L>dory of the scenery or the "^loss of AVestern life ini])arted hy th(^ railway cam}), with its red shirts and card playinii,', she would I'etort : " You mig-ht just as well he in ])rison. The only path in the place leads up to the pflacier. AVluMi the natives ar(^ sick of that, tlu* only excn'cise thev can take is to li-o on handcars (railway velocipedes) up and down the line, and then they ran the chance of heiuij;' overtaken by a lui>'"'ai»'e traiii Avhen they're on a trestle. The only one f f/ thing which makers life endurahlo for them is that tlie porter and the tcdegraph operator have to he male and the waitresses female. They might just as Avell he buried alive, if it wasn't for trains coming in at lunch time ; and they don't get much fun out of that, for the ])assengers try hoAV much meat they cau wt down, and how much fruit they can sneak into their pockets wliih^ the train waits. And tluMi the day is ov(n' until lunch the next day. Fancy a place where existence is e])itomis(Hl into the luncheon hour ! " A Avoman who gets the chance has less soul than a man. She only begins to cultivate oiu" when she has nothing to S2)end, nothing to do, and not mucii to eat. i' 5 I >v cjiAinM:K XXII ro AY 7.7.' .WAV/ y'ii7> iioTFJ.-KEKPr.RS^ANn riih: Diisciixr OF rilF MOI'STMS^. V . V |{('V('ls(()k(^ we sli'iick tlic ('()liiin])i'iiiri('(Mit river hall' ,'i mile \vi().\ with Mic added man'iiidccncc of tlircc ii'iorloiis inoiintaiiis for a hacki'roimd Twin liiittc, I lie d()ul)l(' inouiilain M.-ickeu/jc-'riilcy, and Uie iin)M»siiii;' and i;'la('i(M'-sJ lidded Momit Rei'-hie. Iievelslokc is {\ mere trille of 1, I'?'") I'ee*^. above the sea,; one has Id (diml) a lillhMo eross llie (lold |{aiiL;'e. The l"]ai;i(> Pass, wilh its I'our lovely lakes sleepiiiL;' peaeel'iilly in a prison which has sheei' walls ol' hni^c lir-eliKJ nionntains, seems to have been esjxH'ially desii;iie(l 1)V Providence to accommodate the Canadian Pacilic K.'iilway. At Craii^-ellachie, in this i;'ori;'e, tht' last spike of tlve railway was di-iven in on Novemher Ttli, lSSr>, when die rails from east and west met here. It \VMs ^oniethini;' more than the completion of a railway road; it was the knittini!,' t()i;'(^ther ol' an empire: it was the Canadas and the ^laritiiiie Provinces ^-raspini;' hands witli tlie Pacilic, on whose slioi'es shall one dav he the consummation of tli*' (insat l)oniini(»n. Direct In voii are thi'ouu'h tlie I^aii'le I'ass Non IIV :iii If roA77;/.'.v/.vv/ 7'iro /fori:/. KiU'irims. 311 ill the inidst, of country precious .-ilikc to tlic artist, ;ui(l tlie s])ortsmaii. h'or (|iii('i sccmci'v, iind mirrored lakes, surroimded by <^'r. He was too rich, he cx- l)laine(l, to be botlun-ed with commanding an arniv : so he recomnuni(l(;d a ])r()mising young English ofiU'< r -a Captain Gordcm, of the Engineers. Tlii^ gave General (w)rdon his chance, with what result 1) CONCEliNING TWO HOTEL-KEFA'ERS. :u:'. all tlio world saAV. Colonel Forrester liimsell' w(;nt to San Francisco, where he landed with 3,00(),()()() dollars in his pocket, which he lost immediately aiterwards in a deal — the Canadian Pacific Raihvay superintendent of the division said it was a whisky deal. The Colonel had a lons^ white beard, like Michael Ang-elo's Moses, fidl of little curls and knots. It was the popular tradition that he was afraid of what might happen if he comhed it ; it was one of those thinurs better left uncombed, lie had a red, bony nose, and walked goutily. The pretty girl considered that he gave " tin; l)r()ken-down West " effect better than any one shv? bad ever met, and he worshipped her. He showed her every bedroom in the place, and persisted that none of them was lit for her ; and, in her heart oi' hearts, she probably did not think any of them were. It was one of the places where she felt certain the slK^cts Avould be damp and dirty, and took the ])lankets oif for f(*ar of "insects." She ended by sleeping in her ulster, while the Colonel raved u' on her charms in the bar, and tried to insj)ire the ily storekeeper with a hopeless passion, rather tlia nat one so charming should be loverless, even tin; deserted Eden of Sicamous, The bar was managed on most original pri iciples. The Colonel, wishing to set a stern face against intoxication, decreed that not less than two drinks sliotdd be sold at one time, so that, wli(^tlier you had one or two, you paid for tAVO ; some people took two. i I. i. •I'' * ,l*!'' :5I4 r>.v Tiri: CAUfi and off. One or tAVo drinks woro a matter of tw(;nty-five cents (one shillini^) ; four drinks were fifty cents ; and six, a dollar. Nobody ever took six drinks ; they pre- ferred two lots of four drinks ; but the Colonel lujule his reckonini^s not as a matter of arithmetic, but as a matter of principle. Tliey were a l)roken-do\\n lot in the bar — all colonels. Only one of them Juid any money ; he did not order any drinks. You could not appreciate the full flavour of the place until you partook of a meal. The food was uninspirini^' ; the mutton smelt of wool, and there was not anythiui^' else to speak of, except flies. If the Colonel had been discreet, he would have used black table-c' )t]is, lie made up for it by calling the maids "Polly dear"; " Sally deal' " ; he introduced them to us as " uiy girls." When we went awixy we left all our ii(>\\s- papers behind, because we felt that th(\\ were weariiii^; every news2)ap(H' that had ever come into the house in their undiscardcMl " improvers." Jiut tlu'v were nothing to the " boots," Avho was only a jol) l)()()ts, and took is out fishing for a considei-aiion of ten shillings a morning. He wasn't really a " IjooIs " at all, but a budding poet, and a printcM*, who did odd jobs like cleaning boots and taking tlu^ hotc 1 guests out in the canoe, lie Avas not a bad fellow — Ijettcr as a poet than as a fisherman. We had to fall l)ack on him. The local Indians Avere having a strike beeau^-o of the Chinese, the exact reason being unex- plained ; but, short of violence, the Irish in Saii Francisco could have done no more. sh in San ( 'oxc /■:ji'.\/.\(; t wo no TKi.-Ki:i:ri:i{s. ;;i5 The storekeeper, who was to liave liiul tlie hopeless passion, Avas the pick of the township ; he lent us lishing tackh? for nothin^?, and told us fish stories — about bears, lie asserted that the Indians during the past month had killed no less than eighty at on(5 spot on the Sicamous Lake, while they (the bears) were; lishing for salmon, owing to tlie short supply of wild rasp])erries and blueberries. He could not sliow us tlu; eighty skins, but it is a fact that Ijears fall back on the dead salmon which strew the banks (luring a lieavy run if they cannot get a sulTiciency of tlieiv favourite berries. We felt rather dillidcmt about having to ])ay such a swell as tlu^ Colonel, hut he permitted us quite gracefully, and protested all the time : > profusely ahout tlie hedrooms being so poor and nothing lit for us to eat, that \ve sent him a Christmas card from Yokohama, Avhicli was really a silk shop advertise- ment, saying that tlie only silk handkerchiefs sold by t]i(^ firm were Crosse and Blackwell's. But this ^>'uarantee of excellence Avas printed in Japanese, so it did not detract from the Christmas-card eiTect. Eartli has no fairer spot than this. It Avas between the dawn and tiie sunrise that Ave caught our first glim])se of the ShusAvap Lakes, girdled with sAvelling hills, and reilecting in their pellucid Avaters the high- ])roAved siAvash canoes, telling that Ave had at last fallen on the ([ueer-looking Mongolian Indians of the coast. CroAvds of ducks rose, and lake beyond lake in a vista ; a tliin powd<'i'v mist floated over ' >h » t ■w I I I .sk; O.V Till-: CM!S AXn (IFF r('(Mlv swamps and forested hill and vallcv. 'I^V() ijflorioiis, wooded arms ran out into the lake, w ith mii island in their eml)race, dotted witli a lew poor Indian huts, 'JMie island in the sunrise-lit lake r(>niiii(h'd us of Uw mighty 'IMiunder Cape of liak(^ Superior, which fronts Port Arthur. Tlu^ lake lay far helow the line, framed i^'loriously in ])in(^ forests. AVe tore throui^h undjn'wood ij^ay with ))ur))l(' madonna and the scarh't herries of the mouiitaiii-ash, a i?reat hlue kiui^fisher racini^' iis, the haui;hty fellow which loves to 8it on dead trees over haiii2,'in^' rivers and lakes, till a hoat comes almost within shot, and then shoots ahead like a diviui;' s(»al. The oat harvest liad just hoi^un ; and the Indians were di'yinu; salmon in theii' cam]) on the i^-ahles of their lo«;' huts. The sun came peerinp^ over the eastern hills, where tiie river broadens into a lake ; it liL^'hted up the farther hank and the watcn-s, it poured on to the terraced ri\"i" benches. TIk^ mirrored river was black with ducks; a lark saiii^' on a ienco ; 'and rooks Avere cawiiii;' over broad patches of mai'-^e and bulrushes and j^oldeu-rod. Soon the l)ircli flats and the hills around oranged, and the cattle be^an ij;'razin<;', and the lish risini^, and the ducks whirrini;' across the grassy lake. And tlnm a heron Hap})ed its \\ini>s, and the tirst lire lit the western hills. Our stav at Sicamous was cut short bv a tele<>'rani, Avhich informed us that, in the dusk of an autunui morning, tin? general superintendent of the Pacific division, Mr. llarrv Abbott, brother of the late L^'ini^ rivers r''>,v(7.7i'.\7.\v/ 7'ii (I //oTjjL h'i-:/:/'/:/i's. ;'.i: I'romicr, would \nrrt us in liis private car and take us k'isurclv down to the coast, so that we uiii^Iit only travel l)y daylight tln'oui-h t\u\ sc(Micry in liis i{ > F^.' ■ 'V'^ *''■ ''."• -^ 1 '-•/:. W>^lfc 1^ A FKKIGHT TUAIA IN Till: .lAW,-. OF l)i:ATlI. [Aiit„,rr,l. division. We wore to meet at Kaniloops. W'v are not likely to fori^-et Kanil()oi)s ; we ari'ived there at iuidnii;'ht, and ])roceede(l to the hot(d, or, I should siiy, the princii)al liotcd, lvaniloo])s heini;' the Tourth town in J3ritishColunihia, with two or three i housand .1 .1' 318 ON THE CARS AXn OFF. inlial)itants, to an undue extent Moni^olian. Tlic liotcl Avas like a city of tli(» dead ; the lly-spotted eleutro-plate in the j)arh)ui' and the drinks in tlie l)ai' were alike at the mercy of the midnight marauder. Presently \V(; discovercHl that a corpse Av^as k(H^piiin' the hotel. Crape was Hutteriniif at every availahle point in the parlour, and in the bar and from tlie door handle fluttered a piece like th(» streamer of a cruiser runninsf to Plymouth or Portsmouth from her full five years in East'raphi cully and litho^'rai)liically, for a week past. At tlie ])err<)rmance the bisho])'s son "operated" the magic lantern, and on the following morning he went on to the scene of t'ne n(i.\:t night's triumphs. We lu'ver could discover whether li(^ colh^ctcMl the photographs and lithographs after a performance for paulo-jxjst- fntiire nse. lie Avore very high collars, and was a man of such en(?rgv that he had not time to change them, lie sometimes wore his ties too long, and some- times not at all; and throughout the wild North- AVest he wore a frock-coat and a silk hat, which he k(^})t so assiduously brushed that it was getting bald. 1 do not know if he slept in it, ])ut he always kept it on in the room (unless ladies were present, for his politeness was oppressive). He had pink cheeks, and vello\v hair, and a iiorid manner. He had no counterpart, as far as I know in the world, exce])t tlie agent for the great Burlington Route in San Francisco, whose hats were tlui mirror of the ik :- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^>^ 1^ L25 114 11.6 «^^^> ^n Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTH.N.Y. MSKO (716)t7'i-4S03 .'{20 ON THE CARS AXD OFF. I)' i /^t I universe. IIo was a man of resource, was tlu» bishop's son. Inside of a few minutes Ik; had (h'spatclied the mourners for the ])arman, and liimsell' produced I'roni the har-parlour l)read and chc^ese and unlimited Immt. We never saw him but once afterwards, and ihat was at VancoiiviU", vvlier(» he was tlie same lii^lit- hearted and irrepressilde b(;in«^ — a sort of liuniaii i;rassliopj)er, hop])ini^ about and slirilliui;', wlio would some day be snulled out without any one noticini;-. We had to ])e uj) betimes in the mornini^', for at seven we wen? to i^o on board Mr. Abl)otl"s ear, wliich was hitched on to a " freii;lit train." \\v had such a scramlde to j^et sucli a mis(»rable breakfast; and we might have spared ourselves the ti-oubh', foi- tliere was a lovely meal in the siiui;' little diiiiiii;' cabin of the car, W(^ shall alwavs remember lliis car for its " pears in syru])." Jireakfast over, of course tin? verv first thini? we did Avas to leave tlic car to explore the caboose of the "freight train." The i^'uard's van has a sort of minir^ure liiilitlioiisc on the top i^lazed all rouiul, and with a couple of seats aiul a brake. When this ])rake is not suHicii'iil for the decline there are other brakes on the to))s of the carria!z;es, which he scampers out on the roof to manij)ulate. If ycm are agreeable to your blood beinu' on vcmr own head, no one makes the least objection to you, too, wandering" about on the train roof while it is in motion. We always used to sit in the caboose, or on the roof, when we were traveliinu about in " freight trains " without the luxury of a i 1 r i r 1 1 «w^ t'OSCEItSIXa TWO HOTEL- KEIlPKIi^. 321 |irivat«' cjir, tlioui^'li tlicro were >^('ats (loiiij^ luMiclics) ill the lower part ol" the u;iiar(rs van, Imt with iiothiii!? to look at except the dead wall, and witli a stove aliu^ht in almost any Aveather. The scen^iTV was now entirelv chany-ed. First came twenty miles of Kamloo])s I^ake. Kamloops mii^^ht well have heen called the Chinaman's j^rave, tor in construction days they died like Hies, their countrymen rerusinu; tliem the sli^•htest aid when tliey sickened, and i^'enerally heiiii^' snsjM'cted of (piickenini,^ the ha])py consummation. After leavini,^ Kamloops Lake, one whirls round the valley of \\w Tii()m])son, and hall' tlu^ time believes that one is U'oiii^ to whisk into eternity ; so ])erilous seems the railway huni^ on th(» river ledij^es, lea))in<^ ravines on hiuli ti'estles, and l)urr()win«>; t^iroui^h to])))ly-lo()kini^ promontories, while the river below looks as pun; and innocent as a trout stream. Iv\c<'pt for the; rampart formation of tlie river benches, the scenery is now for all the world like the " stony rises " of Australia, with its brown i)astures and skim))y tre(;s. iiater on one i^ets plenty of i^limpses of Avild life. At Aslicrol't it is nothini^ out of the way to see stai^^es (le])artini? for the distant mines of Cariboo, drawn by six oreif^ht mules, and freii^ht wai^i^ons with as many as twenty oxen, or Vmy^ trains of pack mules. At bytton, where the mighty Eraser comes (U)vvn from tlie north between two ij^reat lines of mountain peaks to receive the waters of the Thom])son, there are often swarms of Imlians. The anj^le between tlie two 21 ;i22 o.V THE CMfS AXn OFF. rivers is the Flanders or Loiubardy of the Nortli- West — sceiK! of many an Indian AVaterloo. Flint arrow lieads and tlie like bestrew it. AVe weic presented with some very peri'ect specimens, and ;i mimlx'r of valuable agates found in the neighboui- ^1 ! -I i i MKi: AISTIIALIA. |.V'.(..«.((i. hood, by one of the roadmasters of the linc^ wlio thought nothini^ of the j^ift, assuring us that tlicy were as common as dirt. Fr(mi here to North Bend is an easy cnoui^h tiij) for us (however stupendous the eni^ineering' may have been), running" straight down the valley of the Fras(M'. AVhat a trip it must have been from tlic li ]\v lino, wlio us that tlicy (o.\c/:iL\'/xa TWO ii()TEL.Ki:i:ri:iis. :i23 Cf)ast wIkmi the only roiiti' was the old Cariboo Koad, |)iiin(Ml to the face of the prccipifc a thousand iVct above us, with poles that look no strong'er than pipe stems ! "THE OLD CARIBOO llOAD, PINNED TO THi; I'ACE OK TIIIO PltECIPICE A THOUSAXl) FEKT ABOVi; L'S." [Soliiwu. T enoui'-li trip Lnoering ni;iy vallev ol' the I een from the ..J»»" CHAPTER XXIII. TiiK aoLi)i:x CITY or tin: rocky moustmns RACES PRIM.KVAL. AM) \ FTEK Avccks of roui^liing it in tlio ])a1)y towii- -^--^ sliijjs of tli(^ Canadian Pacific llaihvay, tlio pretty t^irl had "just lived " for Golden City; to use her ex])ressive words, she was i^oiiii^ to have a " c'destial Ixianfeast and day out " tliere. SIk^ had pictured a lovely city risini^ out of the plains, like the Ncnv Jerusahmi drawn in such i!;l()\vinii; tints by St. John. It really consisted of a loi? hut, wluu-e they sold Eeecham's pills and Cleaver's soaj) and cheap calicoes ; and a loi»; inn, where you sat down to dinner with about tAventy men in red shii'ts and Buffalo Bill hats, who talked nothini^ but jno- spccting. But then the only finished buildiui^- in the places was a real-estate office, which had an English 2)ul)lic-school man, not long from lle])t()n, as manager ; — and very line and large he was in spotless fiaiuu'l trousers, very much turned iij), and very much ])rowned ])r()wn boots. lie did tlic importing for the store, and I should say tliat browning was a very large item in the list. He and his jmrtner were putting up a big wooden snicltcr for the silver ore from Spillimichene ; he show <'d it 324 * M/.V.S ; .WD THE (iOLDllS CITY OF Till: ItOCKY M(H\\TM.:S. ;;•-'.) me witli <;r('{it ])i'i(l('. f tlioui^lit the material a trillc iiillammahlo I'or a smcltci', ])ut su|)J)()S(mI Ik^ must know his own business best. We dined at the l)rii,'ands' ^/AA.' if/iuh' ; everybody drank tea with liis diniu'r, as thev do in the Australian bush. You only paid lilty cents (two shillinl,^s) for this, t<'a includ(Ml, THK GOLDEN CITY OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. but you liad to pay a dollar or two a head to be driven to the st(;amcr in a two-horse buckboard, whose horses had scarcely any harness, and Avhose driver drove in his shirt sleeves. Expensive as it was, it was packed Avith prospectors and their lui^j^age, and the people and luggage were mixed up anyhow, and as often as you thought it Avas full there Avas another hot man jammed in beside you. i ]\ I am (jy Till-: CAJiS AMJ OFF. TIk; most int('r(\stiiii^ man ol' tlu^ crowd was a man wlio liad IxHMi at Oxlord witli mo, and was now a packer, lie liad c(mi(5 (mt to Canada with a little money and i;om? into ranchini*;, with the usiinl results. Youni*' Eni^lishmen of the better class, who start ranchiiii^ on their own account, without ])revious <\Kperi(5nce in farm s(»rvice to otlnu ranclu'rs, n-ci terribly fh'eced by cnery onc^ who does anythinij; lor them. Thcty know nothinij; ol' Canadian prices, and their om])h)yes, ol' all sorts, lie throui;ii a two-inch board, wIumi tlun^ do not actually rob them. The Canadians t)iems(dves are loud in their com))laints of the system — not only From the moral point of view, but because? where? then? an; l^]ni»lish laml)s to be fleeced no one will do any work for the man who pays merely th(? current way:es. My Oxford friend was a man of i^reat resolution ; Avhen Ik; found he had b(?en sAvindled, he paid the ratcvs Ik; had agreed, and a i^ood thrashinii; apiece into tlK; bargain. With tlu; scrapings of his UKaiey he det(;r- mincd to start in as a packer, having a taste foi' horseflesh and adventure. Packing means the keeping of jmck-horses, and In; chose the trail between the silver mines of Spillimicli(;ne aiKJ Golden City, over steep mountains and thick for(;sts, as his route. It takes sixteen horses to carry a ton of silver ore, and costs forty dollars a ton to pack, its value at *' Golden " (as that mining nKjtropolis is familiarly called) ranging from a hundred to live hundred dollars, according to the richness of the assay. THE G(nm:s CITY OF rill': iukkv i/o/a/m/.vs. ;;j7 My Oxl'ord rriciid liad Ihm'ii into Cfoldcn to buy a boiled (liiuMi) collai Tor tin* races, in case any ladies sliould be present; tiie ordinary full dress of the city of kSpilliniicliene wA ^^ouvj; I'ui'ther tlian a dariv l)lu(i llaniud shirt and niolt^skins. Tin; trail from Spilliiuich(MUMloes not run riii;ht into (Jolden, hut to a landiui^ souk; way uj) tlu; Columbia, whence liie ore; is transported by steamcu*. The packer was ii;()ini< on business as w(dl as j)l(;asuro ; for after the; races he exjjocted to i)ick up clu^ap a lot of tin; Indian j)oni(;s, h)cally known as cayus(;s, which, like China poni(\s, luivc; an extraordinary ])roj)ortion of wliites and i^reys amon"^ them. Nor was Ik; idle on tlie May; at more; than one; landinji;-|)lace as Ik; W(;nt ii|), wlK;n he saw a likely-h)()kin<; cay use, hi; i^ot the ca))tain to stop the steamer, jumpcul on tlu; mud (for tlu; river was too h)w for tin; stai;'es to l)e of any use), and bouij;ht a liorse whih^ tlu; steanK;r was waitini^. As far as one; couhl ju(l<^'(;, Ik; bought them for their l)adncss, payinj:^, I suppose, knacker's pi*ic(3s ; Ik; had one miserabk;-lookin«j^ brute; on ])oard. lie was a charmin^-h)okinf^ man, an unmisr{>kablc aristocrat (ho was very clean sliaven), for all liis (lark blue shirt and blue butcher's cloth over-tr()ust;rs. lie never put on the historical collar, lie; said it was l)(;cause he was so chaffed about it, but my private iinpr(;ssion was that the pretty i^irl told him that he k)okcd so manly in his working clothes. His vanity Avas a good deal tickled by her recognising and tr(;ating him as an equal, in spite of his get I 1 V 'i r r|i) 3'2« O.V 11 IE cms .|.V/> 0/-7''. U]) mul sinToiiiHliiiijr^*, lu'lVm* f told Ikm- wlio he was. It was about a iiiilc^ froin thr hotel to the wharl' of tlic lloval Mail steamer, which carried Her Majesty's j)ost-l)ai»;s u)) the Colimihia to the KootcMiay, the little stern- wheelcM* DitcheH-s. To describe her ade- ([iiately I shall have to quote from a letter written Tin: ItOYAL MAIL KTKAMKK - DUCHKSS at the time : " Sh(5 is not larti^e, only a hundred and nine tons measurement ; hut then sh(5 only draws two feet of w'at(?r, or, with careful trimminj^, nineteen inches, a fact to he consid(5red in crossini*; the clear, ripplini"', <^ravelly shallows of the salmon heds at the entrance of the lower lake. She has sleeping berths for ahoiit twenty people, and can accommodate as many more as lik(^ to sleep in the wheel-house, 1 \ i 77//; (nn.hKS iity nr r/ii: iukky moixta/xs. ;L".t ;iIoni;si(Ir tlir ))uili top of tlic cai'u:*), and in (»f Iter <'lii;:ihl(' places. 'I'lir lu'ds arc ically vcrv i^ood, and tin* loud capital picnic Tare. The intending: traveller must nndertake the trip as a picnic, lit' cm expect nothini^; else a hnndred miles IVoni the nearest town, awav up in the Kockv .Mountains, ainoni>: packers, prosp( ctor>, and luispoiled Indians. Hut the captain, as |4;ood a rellow as ever stepped, unitini!: in hinisell' the virtues oi" hoth hreeds ol' Canadians, makes every (HH' U'r\ as il' thev werc^ his "guests, and works like three to anticipati' their conil'orts." The crew would su|)|)ly Mark Twain with material Tor a book— tlu^ lithe, dark-ey( .1, |)lncky captain, lull ol' Freiu'h livcdiness, the Herculean Kni;lisli engineer, the loni;-, wiry Scotch lirenian, the tuhhy little Chines(^ cook and stolid (Miinese steward, not to mention Ahe. 'i'he ca])tain was his own captain, purser, chiel' steward, ([uartermaster, and deck hand rolled into oiu', withal a thorouuh u'cnt lenian, with th e iren tlest manners. He onlv worked, I w aid, ahout twenty hours a (hiy ; lor the remainder lie liked to have a kind ol' easy. Ahe was a little Irish hoy, who was only seventeen, and lookc^l Tourtciin, hut was ast()iiishini»;ly stroni^. On th(^ striMii^th ol' takini^ the wheel whenever th(5 ca])tain was tired, he looked upon himsell' as chief officer. ITo was also de])uty ])urser, second steward, s(^cond quartcu'- master, deck hand and ii;encral roustabout. The tirst time he r(di(n(Hl tlu' captain, while we wcu'c :»:«) o.v /•///; ('.\/{s .i.\7> nrr. 'V tlH'iT, lir rcllf'vcd liis IVrlmi^s hy sny'w^ that Ii<^ slioiild lik« to run the old hoat asliorc onw a day, only lie was scared of a licklnfi;. Th(^ trip was a sajM riativcly lov<*Iy ono. Tin- up|)(M' waters ol' tlui Columbia run between tin- savai^e rocks ol' the well-named Rocky Mountains on one hand, and the lantastic, ]»yramidal snow- piled Selkirks on tlu^ otluu*. ft is full of islands, THE MKHITY COLUMHIA. hooky MOUXTAINrt IN THE nACKUUOUNI). !■ * some ol' th(;m covered with pines, some with cotton - woods and alders, and has quite a delta of channels separated by them, besides endless backwaters, both called slousjjhs. These swarm with ducks, and i^'eese, and os])reys, and kingfishers, and whit(5-lieaded eagles. I shot a fine grey goose with my Winchester. I also saw three coyotes, but was not quick enough to get a shot at them. No one made the slightest objection to your sitting in the wheel-house Avitli a loaded Winchester, heavy enough to stoj) a " grizzly," r ACKUKOUNI). riiE (ir riii-: itacKV uoi'xtaixs. :wi and hla/.ini; out ol* tlio wiiidowN at anylliinu: tliat took voui* I'aiicv. It was a i;lorious dav wImmi wo Icl't (Joldcii Citv. \V(» had coiuc Troiii Donald in a Trrii^lit train at tlic iinwcM'ldly liour ot* six iti the niorniny:; tlu» sky was hluc, tlu^ sun shonc^ l)ri«i;litly, and tlirrc wrrr no forest tires to speak of — tliey an^ worse tlian a Toy;. We liad an assorted list of passeiii^ers, includini; an assayer from [duho ; an .i.morican niinint? speculatcn* wlio wanted to huy up anythini^ that was Ijii^enou^'h ; the Oxford man wlio had Ixum in turn rancher, deek- liand, and packcn* ; two sj)k;ndid ])oys from tlie lloyal Military Acach^my at Kini^ston, Ontario; prospectors, settltM's, cowhoys, mincM's, a poet, and an amateur auctioneer, who was i^oini; up to run tlie ])ools at the races ; Ix'sides sev(M'al ladies (more or less ladies), children, aiul hahit^s ; a onc-(\yed white cayust^ ami ahout a monj^rel ipiece for the (Mitire party, who were well armed with Winchesters and shot-";uns and canoes. The steamer simply l)ristl(;d with canoes, for which only a dollar freit^ht was chari^(;d in order to mak(^ universal the pleasant vice of liavinu; your hoat towed up the stream, a similar freii^ht heini; charu;<'d on horses to encourage sctticrs into emharkini^ on tlu; smallest provocation, which th(\v are already educated up to doing, rather than ride six miles. The landing-stages were mostly nuul. What they are like in the rainy season. Heaven only knows. Sometimes they would be at the loot of a mining ^ -il m ?i ; H' F » 11 882 o.v /'///; r.i/i's .lA'/) o/'7<\ trail, wluTC! tlirn* would Ik* bai^s of silver ore, broiiij^lit down on pack-horsos. At othor times there would be a settler's sliack, mjid(5 of ax(Ml Iol?s, 11 lied or uu 111 1(mI with |)last'eese — only once within shot — and anon a •^reat forest fire tilliii'^ the licavens witli its smoke. Wc were now at the future minim;; metropolis of Spillimicliene — jjnmounced sui^i^'estively like S))?ll- the-machiiu; — and tied up for the; nii^ht. There wein; only horths for half the pcsople on hoard, and only l)lankcts for three-quarters. Tiie i-est kept them- -, $^ ,». ^1 n. ( ■' f ^ ! i i 3;u O.V THE CARS AND OFF. selves warm with struggling to get nearest tlie boiler. Early on the following afternoon we were at Lake Windermere, the lower of the two Columbia Lakes, from which the Columbia Ri . (3r flows, christened from its resemblance to the English Windermere. There is also a town of the same name, consistiny: of a hotel, a store, and a couple of storehouses. This was to be the scene of the races. We were all aliro to be fishing, we had seen such splendid trout and salmon lazing in the clear shallows where the i-ivcy receives the waters of the lake. This was too far from the anchorage to go back to, so we went in search of a brook which ran near the hotel. TIhmc were plenty of trout in it, but they wer(» not of North-Western dimensions, and the onlv bait thcv Avould take was the grasshopper, which, for tlio first time in our North-Western trij), Avas not a burden. It is slow work catching grasshoppers in thick l)ush when they are scarce. You tap thcin doAvn with your stick and catch them if you can while they are stunned. We caught fcAv grass- hoppers and fewer fish. When we got back to tlie steamer we found that fishing extraordinary liad been going on there. The matter-of-fact woman, who had been left in charge of Charles, had a theory tliat it was all stuff and nonsense fussing over children ; that they could look after themselves — poor peojjlr's children always do, and so on. In the middle of it all, Charles, aged nine, who Avas on the ungunwaled 1 I f II wmmtKtH'v ' ^ carest tlic rnE GOLDEN CITY OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 33;-) lower (lock, slipped on some potato peelings the Chinaman had boon too lazy to throw overboard, and tumbled head over heels into the lake, here some six or seven feet deep. Nobody saw him but the lame man, who was exactly the right man to see him, because he could give him a crutch to haul up by. Charles came up looking like a retriever after its bath, protesting that he was not Avet — experience having taught him how ladies dislike having to rake out changes of clothes from the bottoms of their trunks for small l)oys. After this we thought we would wait and see if iishers of men would be wanted again. We spent the afternoon in fishing for the big squaw fish that came crowding round th(^ steamer for its offal. Only most of them were provoking enough to take the food without hooks in preferene(\ Some Indians rode doAMi, and a couple of young English- men, one of whom proved to be a nephew of Valentine Baker, of the same dare-devil stamp ; and at night there was revelry and poker at the hotel, and a mild sort of revelry in the little kind of round-house under the bridge. The steamer was run on temperance principles, but they sent for a little beer from the hotel, and sat round smoking and listening to tlic captain's hairbreadth stories of his experiences in the Rogers exploring party Avhich discovered the pass through the Selkirks. The Oxonian packer in his working clothes, as handsome and gentlemanly looking a fellow as you could meet in Rotten Hoav, played poker all night xu\ f V I nr I ( /,■ . \ \ n on- Ml (III' hi>(rl. Mini nt'\i lit'ii lie cMiiii' ill. Mild WM'^ nMiMctl Iron I M ^niiiltl sici'p MM limn MKiMWMKh !i^ Irc^li m^; |iMiii( jji iMilics ||Ms (o slIpldN W M(t'r lor UM^Ililli; \\llili> (lie |{n\,|| Mail stoanuM' \\ms in jiml. so lli(>v unr di^cov nrd m (lir MiM ol l(M(ini»' ilou n m liiicKrl li_v w roju' wijii Ijiir \\\\^\\.' Mnus IVoin (lioir CMliin window. Tlimo wMs nl(M\( \ ol' in(oi'cs| Tor mm ilMiilislniiMii (o soo tliMl dM\ . I'irs( iMiMo (lie liidiMii luicK^. willi Ioml: ]dMi(^ (Muiiii!^ ill sdiMiisol' Lili((('riii!j, Ium^-^ IimIK. i ni \ rii\ III' nil Kill I, y i/nrv/ i/v,> :i:i7 mdI willi IhihI \\n\\s MM flMir lixvi^K ;iimI \i\illi Ik'H^ ^!ii(|(|('(| nil Ktini'l witli \\\\\ ■ lic^lfi r;ii ( I ifl"""-;. ;i 11(1 ;m iM<(| with Imi mi i'lMlilr' judK jm" ni\ <■ 11 H'\ \\ III f .( I M'\ li!|(' . W illi ';! I M |t^ 'I Mf 'i\ (>l IIm' finWM 'iMfl Mii'Hii'li Mm Imimi I'i in,f|« I ||| rlllM. Mild I I IM"'(| ItlMIlK <•( ( I (iM-:c MCll '»l I h'Ml MX ('\r K(Mi(cMM\'^> 'I'lic Sli tM^w M |i'> (I I (•-;<;r'r| | i jx r l!i!'!';((| llilr MMMI \r(f I llic iM'liMIIX rflMM' IIm' f(MMMl< ('X I' \ i"\ I Ik-mi (M'M |i MM' It' Idled . (•' i,'l t M II. el low X. will) lluii li!!,lil liuMifJifl M|i f|iM\'. I"'il iiM' lilx» mmmI »i|K_ (|| M\\ II ll\ I 'Mir Mf '■■,\s IMIlIc^ Willi lir 1 1^, SniMi mII'M liri>Ml\ Im'^I il wms mIi»'m'I\ mIcmiI mJim-Iv .|(Mi|('("^ ill III'- "^JiMd'' WM \\'Mt iiji ('I iIm K'th I. v'.iiirji ^\n^ Im Itf llif <»iiliM fil IIm' s( « nr (.1 mcImmi rrc:( iill\ llii'ic WMS M imIIIc (if h't'il'; mimI m ( I'mmI oI rhl'^l. Mild it\Mr Him liilU cmIIM' L^mI l't|iiM!', m row ho v om ■I w llilr Imm'^m, (lri\iti!i, in m ImkI i,\' oIImi' Imm<»'>^. iMK^ililr |iMi roriMMj ^. TImm il wmk MinioMiMcd (ji-it. !i^ Him I'olk WMjM (Ml* liiniiiM', ii|i 1,1^1 MMoiii'li, IIm' rMCM"^ would l»M |io'-;| jKMM'd lill Him Ml'triMOOM \\ liMii \\)i^ iMMMK nrliiMllv did li'i'iii, no riiocf jiicl iii'MS(|iiM Kiu'lil cfMild liM\M liMMM ifrMM/in'd Om I wo hill lilo\\'< (do'^M lo Him moiiinm, willi Hi'' iMMiniifi- MMiil liil of " Hif lloMkif'^"' iomimI SiiM'iMii'x I'm^'^ m^ M liMrismdiiiid. WMiM H|oii|m ol liMiiMiix. koimm on llifir liMisMx Miifj "^oiijM dimnoiiiilMd, willi Hi'ir iMiL'lit oiiim- iiiMiiU mimI lliillr-riiiu liMir !fi\ ill!/; tli'' lil'' wlii'di lli'ir iiii)i!M<'^i\ M. |irMrn'(Mi|iiM(| I'mc'-^ |,Md\Md . |{iMisin||M(| !| I,';rM!lt |licll|| ( HlMir- JIfid Hl'M. I lld'T "^MiiiM ImI! Ii'mms wmim komk' lill!*' kiiot>^ oi' s'|imiws nrid T Iti m 3: iir XM* f>\ / m f I h'^ I \ /' H/r pni^oo'^i'v : t\ninM '^. nt'll liM^. ;niil t-nw Ihm ^ in i lirir IhkmiI '.iMnlMiMi>^. \\'\\\\ ^1»Mp^ loi \\:\\ Ivnul; ; i\ InirK Invn .1 ;\nil ;» iliMV ; pmtl ImIiIp. wllirli \\.\\\ \:\^\ l»iM'n iKi'il in ;» KlIrlit'M W l\rn f 1)1' r^plMiii inlot nn'tl 1 In*; moj |t'\ m*^"^)"'"'!*!!)!'!' \\\\\i I WMs. ibiM in^i«^l('il nn |'M\in<> Iummmih' I'> HIiim l\)n' ly> ;\) <>ih' oI j|ii> (wo iniljM's. in\ li'.nnptl l>iiMlnM in ll»i« {Milpit lor {\\r\ Innl iMPclid :\ '.(Ml ol loo pulpit lnlll llic wiiiiiiii' posl hi'ino rl pi o^;pi'(>f m . wllo \\-\o|\\('('n tl\o iMco^ pnlloil oiil sprcimon^. lo prove (Imi SpillnnirliiMio w.is .loin.i |o |.>;i\(< ('nlilorniM mikI roloi.nlo t'ondnnrd in llio rold slmdi' W (' jnduvs uoioont in llio lull .iImii' of lli(> ^^nn l>nl noonl\ rl.nnlioi od iipllio l.-iddtM lor (lio :irhi;il VMjTv,. Thr sA'^liMii oT pools \\:\K > (M\ siinplo lii'^dvnl ol b.Miinu diviM'l . \on dill il (Inonuh 1 lin fiiirl ionrci , Mnd p;nd Irn per »>t>nl (o llio i«lnl> lor ||h' privilcivc Tl\i'^ WMs tln> piiyo Innd. lo Mliirl* \hv\r luid Inrn tjintc :\ ntnulxn ol snl»s»Mdi>d l»\ om «;■(M1^M^>ns oMpiMin willi t\\onl\ dollMiM. ||i< ;iK,. «'n\l>;nl\('t1 rt^'Klos'^I) in llio pools jo pconiiilr spnn l.UuMi. Willi ilip rrsnil llinl Ml llioond ol' lliod;i\ lli. >tM nnloimrd \> indrnuoro |{;n'o('lnl» lind HmIkhhI >-«MU(^ sum oi M\i\ li\,' d«dl;irs lo iN nodil 'rollir ('Vi'dil ol tin' liotol Koopor ho il s.iid IIimI not nnr ^ riir i.i'i in \ (in m i in in'ii.s \iin\i \i\ ■ri'i ImM'K l»n'\l il ;i|;i';^ III lil|Mii| W'l'! i^mIiI M|iiin Hir lirM •mmI ((. Ill iinlil III III w IimI.' ;r;^i'iiilil)i"r |t( il ^;ii(l IIdiI II Ml I' l'll'.\ . (Il WM^ IImI Mill' IMMII. \\llilf' 111 JlMlifMI. (ImIIiIv. I ijlllMir^'iillM' lliilll I'll':! Ill ImmI 'I'Ih' III')'. I III I lift iinli'f |MiM ;iili'(l 'I'lir lim sr ifMi": w (')<• n I il I Ic ',|ii i m I \ lllir lll'^l \\!l^ U|||\ l\\(i ImMIiIm'iI \fll(|':|, mImI \\( ir A '" N^^)q('l'l,ll|■| fq ciiM I'l I IT'.K Mill " Miiddrii ilcnlli." Iiiil IIm' Ik'^^I oiiI mT IIm'i ImjiIs. Tlir lii!i|i('Ml |iii/i' \>fi'^ lillv r's lirjlv mI. I||c kImiiiMii, in III wliicli Hmm HmikI llicir kners. ( >! coin si- ll.'iKrr I'M'^lifi'M d!iird<"\il ii('|»Im'\\ rude in 'hk i.I llirsr iMcrs liMiT-li.'Kdvcd . 'I'lir niiiiMiMhil in c |»ii//|( rj T ■siff M() orr inr !\ u,'oo(l (IcmI. MS llirv <';illnl rlicshmfs sun-els. rrr.'inis ItiicKsKins. miiiI picltMlds pinlos. llowrNrr. jiidnini;' wms msv. TIkmc ucrr no dispiilrs, r\<'('|(t in (he stuinws' i;ic(>. u hen llic iircllic^l ol' Hkmu. \vli(» l);i(l H(»l M l)M(l sImi'I, UMiilcd Id Iijivc I lie r.icr run M!4'.-)in, on tlir |d('.-i IIimI she li;i,d not Mnd(M-slood the slMi'lfM's insl rnrlions. As slir conld ImIK tli< ()i(>(tirsl MnLi'lisli. (his \mis cn idcnl Iv m (|nil»l)lr. Tin s(|n;n\s nil rode s( rnddlr-lci^^rd. Inil. nnliKc llicii lords nnd inMsJcrs. iIicn K('|tl llirir icL^s in Ilicii tronscrs ol' IVinurd ltl;mlv( lore. U'li.'il M (Imv it li;id hecMi. with its piet ures(|iir urou|)s ol' IndiMus iwmI settlers, nnd its ii/-i'r,s,:, Mn'MUii'enuMjts I one of the i;reatest pienies I evei h.id in my life; and the site was uui(|U(dy lovely, dust hel'ore dinner I resii^ued m\ judicial runetions. and \V(Mit to wallow in the warm, (d(»ar watei's ol" the lake. How delici< us it was to lie down in it.witii just one's fact* out of water, looking' throui;!) the waviuii" r(MMl heds at the ^dorious hillowv Kocky Mountains in tlu* pink haze of sunset ! Alter diiiniM- W(* \V(Mit over to wood the ship. The water li.-id U'one down so that she could not i;'et within t(Mi vards ol' the shon* ; hut that did not daunt llie I i—i m ■ 77//; (.■nfj)i:\ cirv nr riii: nncKv \utvsrM\. :i 1 1 rcsoiircrriil (';i|il;iiii, who jinii|M>(| into Ihr \\\\\vv wilh his iirplicws mimI A lie, CMriicd Ihrrr or loiii- volimlcri's msImu'c, mimI Idl, ;iiii)t Imt t liirr or I'oi II- III the hows oi' the ho;il. Thr I oH's wrrr |(,'issc(| I'rcmi (hr wood |)ih> to Hie ship in niv.il slvh- ; jiikI in ;i iiimHi'I' of niiiiiilrs llir |i;issrii^ris \v('r«' riishrd .'il'l % II \( i;s i-rtrMA'.vAi. Mild llic stcMiiMM- " poh'd " oiif, into deep wati'i" M'^aiii .111(1 piidiiiLV merrily down tlic l.'ikc. The voyjin'c home wjis not jiii I'vcntriil one. It nas the same talc ol' I'oiiiiliiiiLi' it comrortahlv in other words, cainpiiin' out mil ii^atcd hy the tahlc's iiciiiL;' loaded with every conceivahle sort, oi" sjuicm; and pickle, and va,.'ie(l hy I adiiii;' and iiiiloadinii, e'uyuses and |)otiitoes, taking; on 2,r)()() lec^t of sawn ft; \« M- f' \ / /// I I h'^ I \ /' fi/7' titnltrr Ml ihi' rMplrnii'^ mill. I\\r|\r luiltv! Mlin\i- l 1 III' t'\ < KitiiiMii \>illiM Mii'i r\ . liMs|iilMMi' rMplMiii. M mw in liiin * ininlil^ (itlmiiliiM i^: nnc tu Iti nMnincndnl li» imcin IrMArJIci in llic mrnl Nnrlli (I'ImiO l>t" llli' lii (i'|\i : W Iticit illll':)) 'llo ihiM I'llMpfl'l «t'»l» i|l!in t) onf^millv. I l>ili('\ i<. Iv\ M i v \illiin Spi ;U!i»i', n Itivc jicn tiinl I'cniil •Uclcliioj o\ llii \oHli \\ > ^i Mil' ilili' M.liiiifiltli« : lull lluv li!i\. (ilioviil (.> n\.' llni>n!;li .< ih'iim ni'w ■ pipci ^^ llitil I iln iml lil;(> (.. «1:\lo n l.>v ( n iriin I > S I [ ift J |ii>n !Uiil I'l'iti'il ml I In \ li!H'' (II \i"i i;i! \ \iv. II \'r M JMlKMCS it imc(| («. Ii(> r|(i\V(i \n \'f>rtli McimI ' 'I'Im' ImII w ri(i(|«'(i III i(|M«.i; ■' t rest Irs. ' !m Mm'V Mir c'lllcd mIwmv^ t»MV(' ImmiI iciMJin'^ cirnks iti (Im" MIm^I (ImH1M'I"H^ plMCCs ; , v«'l'M'i|irf|r, wliirli l^opm in Iroril ol' (lir liMJii In SIT ir (lif Ijnr is rjoir'. A lirnvy shower '»! iMJii liml (| M nifrMMlic l»oiiM»-r .'ind top|»l<'i| it, n II Id llic lilM' 'I'l IIS IS n iiMS \IiIm>II. \ >IT II «'||tr|(|r (Mil Oil |H^I M''l«', Jirifl s ly pi I li JH'C. SIIMl Ml ;liot. (jftwii IIm' rMiliMiik iim'IiI. like llic liMfl u\ swirc into Hie Liiki' »»r ( JMlilcc. Till' (jiivrr stuck to it, jirid v\;is irujinlcil l»y rroviilonrc Mrn'stin'^ its (»roi^ri'ss with n iiilliiiL? rock jiisl. on IIm' luink of the rivrr, wficrc it is nlioiil )i IiiiikIi'imI Icrl. {\rv 1)1(1 voii li'Mvr lii'^ ri'WJird to I'loviijcncc ii« kiMl. Oh ! no ; he hns on«' ol" our hcst (lriv('rshi[)s, two :ii8 MA O.V 77//; (MfS .|.\7> ni'F. I , :t t luiiidrrd (lollui's a iiionlli," wliicli is Ix'ttcr )>av tliaii a jikIl;'*' oI' tlic SiiiJi'diic (Nmi't i^cts in sonic pai'ts ol Canada. Wc \V('i*<' now rinlit in tlicSiwasii conntrv. Siwasli is tiic name von apply to the male Coast-Indians; ,i woman is a Klootcliniaii. All down the valley ol KLOOTCHMAX WITH I'APOOSK IN MOSS-BAlJ. (Fri'ner A'liO- in HochiroMul.) tlio Li'vcat river — the lordly Vraser — one sees at sliort intervals tlie ])atlietic little g'raveyards, with crosses and ilai^s and llntterini;' rai;'s, and evidences ol" yoin- beiiiL*' amongst iisji-livini;' jx'oplc. The salmon is tn the Indian of British Columbia what the mai/e was to tlie Six Nations, and the aloe to the Aztec. In the summer he eats it fresh ; in tln^ winter he eats it y. Siwnsli I luli.'iiis ; ;i Fis/f sT(»/{ti:s Of Tin: r/t.\si:if. :\\:t the rcvcrso ol" rrcsli. Salmon on the niarch n|> tin- Fruscr an* a sii;lit nrv<'r to he Tornottcn. I'ar al)o\c Nortlj hrnd, not vci-v nuii'li hclow Lvtton, \\r iirst saw tlH'iii — tin' ratlu'i' inlVrioi* variety known as Soi'l\-l\v«'s. I''ivr (lillcrcnt laniilirs ol" salmon miuratr M|) tlir I'^rascr ('very year. The column was man\ miles loni;", and, as far as one conid jiidi!:<*, ahout ten ft'ct wide and several leet deep. 'I'liey had been so Imll'etcd in their lom;' iouriiev I'roju the sea that the column h)oked blood red, I'or the h'raser is a master- I'lil river, ruiuiiiijij like a mill-race, and in its narrow Liori^'es, where there are immense bodies ol' water to he carried oil' throuifh i»'ates of rock, often I'rom fil'lv leet to a hundred I'eet deej). Kven steamers can make; no iKMuhvay above Yale, and the poor salmon have to cree]) up the sides out ol' the current, and are often half an hour in doubliui;' the ani^le of a juttini;' headland. The Indians take advaiita^-e of this, and build stai^es, rickety enoui^'h to u:ive a white Mian the vertii;'o, ai^ainst the face of the rocks at these points, when; they stand w ith a ])ole-net made like a hug'c hicrosse bat, and, as the unfortunate salmon is stru^'i;lini^ round the corner, scoop him out. Tliev can often •'•et them much more easilv, because the salmon, in their anxiety to hiy their eiin's, |)ress u]) (ivery little creek in search of a restini;- place. V\\ the main stream thev an; driven ruthlesslv on bv the vast armv oi' their fellows behind till thev reach the Shuswap Lakes, just as the Irish were crowded out ol' Europe into Ireland by the Teutons [* f/ ' ■ 'I , ill " I 34(5 ON THE CARS AND OFF. and Scandinavians and others of the Indo-Germanic family, Avho Avere in such a hurry to get away from the roof of the workl (if the Pamirs were really the cradle of civilisation). When the Indian has caught his salmon he splits them up and hangs them in the sun to dry on a frame, which looks as if it was the skeleton of a barn. ' i. I' -1 J'';: AX INDIAN SCOOPING SALMON. Higher up, in the Shuswap country, he is apt to use the gables of his hut ; the Siwashes have sucli degraded-looking noses, that the smell docs not signify. The closeness with which salmon pack themselves is marvellous ; they might have studicnl the arrangement of a sardine tin. I have seen several hundreds of them in a pool that would not hold a billiard table ; people have swept them out Avitli l)ranches before now from such pools and the smaller creeks. These salmon average from eight to nine 1*1 i_ I FISH STORIES OF TllF FRASER. :U7 ])ounds apioco. It is very pretty to sei^ tliein crossing;' all eddv. Tliev do not seem to feed Avlieii once tliev are fairly in frcvsli water ; they have nevcn* l)e(Mi known to tak(} a hait in the river. It is always said that a certain noble lord signed away the whole of Wash- ington Stat(; to the Americans, because the salmon ■S-l r ■fi ,. I f hK SIWASH DRYING SALMOX ON Tilt; I'UASEU. gilt to nine would not rise in the Columbia. It will give an idea lioAV thick the salmon were, when I mention tliat you could get ])lenty of excitement by standing in the edge of the river and grabbing' at the fish as they went by with your hands — you did not catcli any, but you could catch hold of lots. Down below North Bend the Fraser, though it still runs between 1 n #? .T I ;us . winds Mild twists ;il)()iil like mm eel 1 |jr()iii;li s.ind hanks and slniii'lo ImmIs, whoso nionotoiiv is vaiiod with (MiinanuMi sliiicini;' \\\v i^-old washod down IVoni Iho bonanzas, which all the minors ol" tho I'aoilic coast Ixdiovo to lino tho nionnlains (tl' hritjsli i'olnnihia, as woll as ('alil'ornia. Mow nnich tin Chinainaii i^'ots ont of this linsinoss no w hitc man (>v( r oonld ascertain ; tho white man onlv i;cts starved. There were a i;real many Si washes ronnd the pretty little hotel at North Hend. Their hesi cenuMerv was wit! nn a miK Mid missions were active. They were havini;- a^ camp meeting' when we were theiv', and had horrowcd a. cannon for il. What part the cannon took we conid not li)id out. hnt |)rohal)ly it represented ll(dl or the Day ol Jndiiinent. Catholic missionaries are as astnte in ori^ajiisiiii;- th(» snp(M'stitio)is ol' Indians as Cohnnhiis was himseir. All who have read tlie L;lorions pa; 'CS ol" Washiiii^'ton irviiii;" will recollect the i;reat. Don Christoha! himtinn' np an eclipse ol' the snn in hi^ almanac, and inllict ini;' it on the Indians (ui theda\ on which it had to happ(>n, hecause tlu^y wonid nol hrinn" liim (Mionii'h li'old, or tapioca, or somefhini;. One ii'ots (|nite I'ond ol' thes(» poor, helpless, i^rolestpic hrutes ol' Siwasluvs. they are so i^-enlle. In appear- ance th(\v are rather like d(>hased sj)ecim(Mis ol' the low(»st ordtM" ol' .)a])anese. They are jnst as nndei- si/.ed. hut not so wirv oi" activt*. Th(>v iwc ahoni the same colour, hut their luvuls. their mouths, and uaawiBM— MM I'isii sr (IN I III) l'l!ASi:i! |A■'/^, to ])ay Tor the privilci^'c. 'Phcy have the misroi'lnnc to lie civilised that is, Ihcy wear white men's I'ai^s instead of natives costume ; this they do irrcspccJive (tl' sc\'. A. Klootchma.n is literally willinij,' to "take I he hreeks olV a II i(dandinan." They live in wooden ('nttaL;'es that do not dilVcr seriously from a white man's, cxccjit in their emjthasiscd .sA/7,v'////'.v.s and their curative jiropertics (oll'actory). They u'cncrally have a sort of verandah in which they keep their cookini;' >r * > i' «f .*(' : iM •M) «i\ 77//' CI h\\ I V/) (»//" II nliMisih. siM'l) MS lh('\ liMM«. .iiiil (Ml ill \.'ninii'^ "^(mh,... ol' pr<'s«'r\ Mlioii . lli<>\ ;il\\;i\s li,'i\(' (luMr Kilclicn (ir.. oii(si(|(\ Mini r.toK \«M\ inii«'li in "'j|»s\ iM^liioii 'I'li,, Uonion \\\\\\ \\:\\huyKC^ ilitcrc^lrd im \ri\ iniirli ; i\\,\ rMiricd llicir pMpooscs on (licir IimcK^ in sncli |Mrtin r^unc " nio'^s l)M'>s."" M sMil ol' rro^w liolwron m rollin siw \mi 'J m r \\ mumm ium>. Mild M s))liiil inM(I(' ol' hircli liMrK. Tlic world is ,1 miimII MllMir; liim^ MH.i spMrc tomIIn liMrdIv si'-iiilA lli(» lilllt' jKHioosc. hound Mini niid li'U' in sumIIh'shI liMvK. wliirli iiimI\(' i( m iiiiiniin\ widi m nio\ in-- hcid. is ItM' mII IIk' world liKo ||ii< Cliihl .Irsiis on ,111 (>\()uisii(' w liilo iiiMJolirM mIIo rolio\o ol' Liicm dcll.i IJolihiM. l!\(Mi M Siwnsli looks pMssMltlc w Ikmi m Ii;iIi\ Si 4» i i nr imn !^rni;ir:- nf nil i-i; \:.i i; ;ir.i ilrl\(>ii liiT, hittn Tlx mirli ; I In \ M('l» pirhii Til :l roilin world i^ •\ M\ si <• I II In ; II swmIIx'^ "I nn\ ill':!, Iir.id. (>sus on .'ID |,IH-;i d''!':! \\\\r\\ ;i li.tliN Tlio |tii|ioom'M. nioioov CI. \\\\\\ li\r up |o llio hi)li;iii I o|miImI ioii lor Inril iiriiit v. how II (Iioj'IomI liver \\ o Idic, with jIm •ili'^hnin" wliijo mIoii\ IkmI riiiiiiiii!' Iirlwmi (iiir|\ W oo( Ic.l li;iiil\M. wliirli liMil nioiiiihiiii^ I iMiii!', oiil ol llirm lik Iter I ll\ o^. oi' (lio I illlinMII KM'M ol (^lirlic { loiii!' ml M \!i!lMMi/. CM 1 1 oil .'il'lor I lie r)illlil\ ol' I lio !' I rfil li.'il illM I i'^,1 'l( w Im .'ire siri I |0(l in l lie iiri!' Iilioiirliooi lili licio W riT (' I .'Hill Mull iocKm lisiiiii,' ((III ol' llio JfiKr liK(> ii\ri ; mikI.'iw.'in lo llir soiilli lioyoml. ilq IickI mimI mIioiiIiIi mm lo\M>iii"' ;ilio\o llio rloiKh, IMolllll. MmKim. Hie I'll ji'^ji It ol \\\r Nordi \\'rsl. \\ o rMiiio IimtK lo \ !!,!i'^'^i/, iif'.iin mI ji |;i(rr |MMio(| lo \ isiil llio rMiiioim lliini'^oii S|iriii!f;^. mIioiiI li\o miles (IIsImiiI in llir lumli. 'riir^r s|iiiiiL!,K ;in' loc.'illv iloiiirMliMJ lo M Miiiiil iiol IoiiikI ill IIm old-world ('MliMidjirM. IIioiil»Ii w<>rslii|»|M>d in niJiiiv in cini.'il ions. Ilolrliind M|iriimM jiliKr jut nillrd llir SI. Alice. MmitIhoii is verv niinli wluil I'miiM niii^l liMvr licen like in ils inlMiiev, when il oiilv luid IIm SMiiil.'irinin llolel. II, Ih Mifii^^liiiii, lor ilmdl', willi no oiiini|ioliMil(\'MiM(lifin pMrilie l»;iilw.'iv lo Imild il ill ,'i (jjiv. Mm liolel, M. wooden nioiiiil;iin liolej. is eerl.'iinlv lieller IIimii (invlliin!.; i'.'inll luid in the d;iv ol' sniiill lliiiii;M; )ind il Iims m eM|iiliil siil|dini sw imniinL;-l»illi, very Iniue. mikI Iniioiislv liol where I lie N|irini;'s come in. II slnnds, moreover, on fi \ei y l;irL;e Mild liejiiilirnl l.'iKe. willi ii. iiiM^nilleenl, view ol nioiiiil;iiii tiiid L;l!M'ier. not imlike Ihe \ iew ol Hie r.eriiese ( )herl,'ind Iroiii /iiriidi. In Ironl is ji eluiin ol liiiely wooded islnnds; )il. iiiter\;ils ii|i I lie hike If '1 •.\n'2 (L\ Tin: r.l/.'N AM) (IFF there JUT lovclv u.ilrrr.ills mikI |Ht'iii('iiiu,' |)l;ii'es ; and i'(»mi(I ihcsentiul poiiil, willi its Itold rocks like Ihr I'MDi ol' a warsliip, the tierce llari'isoii lli\er com- mences its (h'sceiit to the majestic h'raser a I'anioiis |)oii)t Tor lishiiiii', this. At the end of tlie lake is ;i Tin: KUASl'.U A I' VAI,i: |.V"/., (l(»a(l citv. Doiiiilas, once tlic s(»c()iul or tliird town of Hritisli Coluiuhin, with a i^ood inaiiv hundred iii- liahitants. Tor iii the ohl, ohl (hiys tin* (^)ueen's hii^li- I'oad IVoin tlu» west was h\ way of the* h'raser and Harrison Rivers and Jlari'ison Lake. Harrison is one of tlu)s(* ])laces which luive sucli i^dorions lisliinu- until you i^'i^t there; its trout, 1)ot]i tin* speckh'd and tlie u'lHNit hike trout, are xcvy \h\v, hut tliey are as J_ - ^^T^^P'? "■■■''ATWyMi^BiiHwwa^B^ ••(" |»lat'rs ; aiul •ks like 111'" Itivcr (MHii- -a ranioiis ic !ak<' is .1 I A"' ■ linl town of UundriMl in- ikmmTs liiiiii- i» JM-ascr and nrrisoii is oiu' )ri()us lisiiiiiLi' s])rckl(Ml and t tlu'V aiv as FISH sTdiur.s (IF Tin: Fir\sFi{ ',\w.\ IViulitcncd of Aincricaii tourists as tlic L;riz/ly ocar, and most ol' the |)( ojiir w mo <;o to Harrison arc Americans, except, the L-'ood V^ancoiivcritcs, who w.mt a little monntain ail* alter the ronnd ol' dissipation in that seven-vear-old Mcdhonrne. The American who is taken to this kind ol" place hy his lamily does not. look lor colossal sport; all he demands is a steam lanncii I'or |)leasnre parties, and a harn to dai)ce in. 'IMie springs, lor swillinL;' and swimminu,', tickle his hypochondriac I'ancy, and if there are tlie I'acilities ahove mentioned I'or i^'ivini;' liis lamily a •^•ood time, he is not hnllied so mnch. I I'oriioi to add that, the lishini;'-tackle shop sold candies and the sea-side lihraryaiid I lai'pers' unauthorised versionsol' Ki))lin^'. They manai;'e " i^unniui;' " very cleverly at Harrison ; hear and d' ''r ahound, but they refuse to he shot unless you i;'et up Ixd'ore dayhreak and |)ost yourscdl' about ball'-way U|) the lake, and j^'et a lot ol' doi;'s, wit!) men tbat own them, to drive the i^ame into the water. Tliis kind ol' s])ort is not sevendy tested, and tlie lake maintains its reputation, h'rom here down to Vancouver is the i^arden ol' British Columbia; tli(^ forest lias been cleared away I'oi' tlu; most ])art, and there are a i;ood many I'ruit I'anches and milk ranches, nearly all ol' them run by Kiii^lislimeii ol" ii'ood family, Avitliout any lielp excej)t Chinese. As a rule thev mak(^ nothini'' beyond a bar<' liviiii^ out (»r their ranches, but one and all ol' them are certain that their particular ranch will be a town site; and so h)iig' as their old ch)thes hold toi-c.'ther and tli(>y 23 > -I \i» H» i I :i54 O.V '/'///■: (!Al{S AND OFF. cjui i;('t (Miou^li to cat {Uid drink, tlicy sit aiul wait U)\' tli<' town sites to come moro patiently tlian Arahomet waited Tor the mountain — that is, indess anytliini»: in particuhir, such as races or a vice-renal proi^ress, is i»()ini^ on at Vancouver or Victoria, when tl)i\v ])r()mj)tly ahandon tlu'ir ranches to tlie dc- |)!'edations of their faithful Cliinese servants, and. clothinn' tliemselves in what is h'l't of their I'orniei' L-ranchnir, hurry down to tlie coast. I met in one of tlie twin metropolises of ]?ritish Columl)ia a smart cavalry oflicer with a lovely wife who had heen the heauty of a season in London. A few months after- wards I Avas up at The Missicm, the next station west helow .Vu^assiz. While the cars werc^ drawn up in the " depot," a lu'avy Avagj^on canu' alon<>' in cliari'-e of a Avcather-l)eaten man in a tAveed suit bleached hy the sun. "You're not i^'oini^ to cut me because 1 'ni in my Avorking clothes ? " he called out. I rec()i»'nised the man Avho had looked tlu^ oHicer as much as auA' man in the dockvard storehouse at c r Ksquimault, the night it had heen transformed witl hunting' into a naval hall-room, aiul Avas tilled witli the officers of five of the Queen's Sliij)s. Perliaps the most amusing instance of this kind tliat came into our ol)i.ervation was the menwic at Sevmour's Cr(»ek, four miles outside of Vancouver, across tlie inlet. This really had some chance of becoming a town site in the not unfathomable future. It was run as a milk ranch bv four A'oung Englishmen, two stockbrokers, a soldier, and a man of no importance. and NVi>it jtly tlum is, unless vic(*-i'<'i;iil )ria, when f) the (Ic- aiits, and. (»ir ronncr net in one )ia a smart 1 been the nths al'ter- ext station » drawn up viX in chari;'e it hlcached me because^ led out. 1 K^ ofiicer as jvehouse at 'ormed witli i filled with ,s. Perhaps that came t Seymour's ', across the lu'conuniij a iiv. It was ishmen, two importance. r/sii sToh'iKs or the rnAsim. ;{."»r» We went out to Seymour's ('reek from N'aneouver one al'ternoon. 1 did not think we should ever i;'et there, for we were in a little cocklesludl ol' a rowhoat lij^'^-ed with a hi^' sail, ami as we were i;'oini;' through tin upper narrows the tide came up like ahore-wave, makiui;' a tremendous " ri])." 11" one of these waves took us broadside on, nothiuL;' could luive saved us Irom IxMni; swamped, and it was all Captain .M eould do to" manage tlici sail, lejivini;- me to keep the hojit's head uj), ami i know no more ol" na\ ii^atiui;' than I do oi'theosophy. It is very dan!4'erous to ij^o (Hit in a boat with i^'ood sailoi's. They take thint»'s too much I'or i^'ranted. AVhen we L;'()t to tlie house we found no one in it, and so we took ])ossessi()n oT it in true cohnual style, th(^ ])retty i^irl establishini;' lier.s(df in tlu^ verandah with a " yellow-back," and the niatter-oJ'-l'act woman i^'oini;' in search ol* the China- man for the inevitabh' tea, which the Australian would drink in the middle ol* the nii^ht ii* he found it ready Avhen he Avoke up. Captain M devoted his search to whisky and soda, and I cooeed for our hosts, and shortly after i^'ot a co()e(5 back from the creek ; so olf we went, and found Wunw fordiny: it with a load of hav. Tliev were so chai^rined at the sig'ht of a lady, haviiii;' on, all of them, their very rauchiest clothes, that they let the wa^'<.^'on into a hole and spilt it, ami sent the hay lloatin^' down stream. Having steered the hay sai'elv to shore, thev came forward to make us welcome, and escort us back to the house, a very '•*^»'. f ■ ■ :1 I ■ iH \f ^^IK Iff '^ .'{50 ■ O.V Tin: CAliS AM) OFF. \ \ !' \i i ? ; ■ ■ % i;o()(l one, l)uilt of wood, thoui,'li tlicy liad to Icavr lis almost iiniiKMlijitcly, for it was milkiiii;' tinic, and cows arc liko trains and tides, and wait Tor no man. Tlioy invited the ladies to poke tlieir noses into evervthinu' in the* house, hecau.se th(»v eonld hard I v take them into the coAV-hyre. AV<' had to i:;o, and precious dull work I found it, th' only alleviation being a cow that would kick the ])ail over. IJiit they had quite a lot ol' cows, and were the ])rincipal milkmen of Vancouver. They kept a launch in their creek, and a cart and horse at the terra jinmi metropolis of British Columbia. The youni;'est member of the firm always had to take the milk to the citv, and hawk it round frcmi door to door. He often sold milk to the slavies in the mornini^, and danced with tlieii* mistresses at a swell ball in tlie evening, lie wore a diamond ring while he was retailing the five-cents worth of milk, because Iw knew the Chinaman would steal it if he left it at home. When we got back from milking, and in our turn were shown over the house, Ave could not help thinking what a queer " show " it must have seemed to the ladies fresh from London and Xew York. The salmon Avere " running " Avhen Ave paid our visit to Seymour Creek, so the Chinaman went down just the minute he Avanted it, and " scooped " one out as you Avould pick a vegetable-marr()A>'. There Avere only chairs enough for the oAvners, so they gave them up to us, and made shift Avitli provision boxes, viiicli Avas quite in keeping Avitli the rest of FISH sTnini'.s or Tin: ruASKii ;{:>7 the nh'iiiii/c; lor tli()iiu;li tlicir IxmIi'ooius Ikh'c cvi- (IciiCM's of tlicir roniHM- state in tlic rows of smart Loiuloii hoots, and tlicii* haiulsonic (Ircssiiiii'-cascs and i)oi*tniaiit('aiis, tlicy slept on wooden hedsteads knocked uj) l)y themselves, \\i»h mattresses and ))iUo\vs made of sackini"- I'nll of ehalV, red Indian l)laiikets, and no slieets at all. Their waslistands were e([iially imjjromptu, and for lookin^'-i^lasses tli(»y " did " with the surviving' ciiips (A' the mirrors wliich had fitted into tlie lids of tlieir (lressin;^'-cases. Wliih' we wer(» waitini"' for dinner tlie man ol" no importance, who took the milk into N'ancouver every day, played the tnnes which had heen in fashion (for tliey had a piano) while they Avero " paintini;' London red." ^lusic-hall chornses often hroui^ht i)ani!:s, for to each one this or the other melody hrou^'ht tender memories. One of them left off talkini^ to us, and took no end of pains over filling* his pipe, with his hack to the com2)any, to the air of " Myosotis " ; then he suddenly rememhered that avc; were th(»re, and for once did not lii^ht up and smoke till the very moment for pitching food down his throat. Tin? Cliinaman who waited on us was very funny ; Avhen the pudding came, he looked first at the pretty girl and then at the senior partner, with the compro- mising remark, " Ladee likee lice ? " When she shook her head, he continued, " You no likee lice, you tly apply sauce, hetter no can do." The " lice " —the Chinese always pronounce "r" as " 1 "— certainly looked the reverse of appetising in an un- ^: iji r 1 'i- l" I -Ml ' \H . ■!».' >:'*' :i:>s UN Till-: cAiis A.\n nrr %' polislicd tin dish, hut it did not pn^vont us enjoy iiii;' ourselves immensely, and hy no means sharini;' the ladies' disiiuietudc at the delays interposed hy the lowncss of the tide, which looked as if it never would come in. And when it did, it was slow, slow work i^otiini^ hack to N'ancouver in a heavily laden KLOOTCHMAX (FKMALE COAST-IXDIAN) WITH PAPOOSE IN MOSS-BAG. s 1 1 boat, Avitli the tide running stronj^ against us, and not enoiigli Avind to l)low out a match. But, hoavons ! how hoai;tit'ul it Avas, Avith the moon turniiig tlu^ hroad Avatcrs of the inlet to a sheet of silver, and picking out in dark relief against a dusk blue sky the tall trees and mountains of the farther shore. .Vgainst the black Avail of pathless forest shone out :i| \ ■ r FISH sT(UiJi:s or riii: riiAsi.n. uo the littli! white Mission with its chccrl'iil lamps — *' pour (chiii'cn' cw or riir: soiitii-wiirt. rp^llh] s(N'i]U)i't<)r tlic twcniictli cciitiin ! the Con- -'- s(;nitiii()|)I(' ot" tlic West ! arc the iiaiucs wiiicli sii<>'<'(»st('(l llicinsclvos to inc tlic moincMit I set eves oil VaiiC()iiv(M'. Nature and circiiiiistaiu'c have been jirodii^al to VaiicoiiviM*. Xat'.irc has L!;iv(Mi licr tlic situation of Stanil)oul — tiie Turkish |)art of Constantinoph' — witii tlic (hu'p waters ol' JUirrard Inlet to replace the Sea of Marniora, and the False Creek to rival tlie (Joldeii Horn as a natural dock. liik(» Stanihoul, tlie city ol' Vancouver stands on a peninsula, with th(* cypress i;roves ol' the Serai^lio Point re])resent(Ml hy the forest prinueval ol' Stanley Park, and with a " hoi»''s-l)ack " runniiii;' the whole leni^th, on which it is to be ho])e(l that the ])ul)lic buildiiiii's will br(vik tlu* sky-line, as it is broken bv the domes and minarets of tlie moscjues in the cajiital of [slam. Across the (loldeii Horn of False Creek there is not only the slo])e (reminding' one ol' the lie of Galata and IVra) com- prised in the Canadian Pacitic Pailroad ijfrant, but roads leading" across to the rich alluvial lands at the mouth of the Eraser, Avhich Avill b(» occupied in the 77/-H7;.s7'. ! tlic Coii- iii(\s wiiicli I set eves IM .vron 7;/,'. ■ 77//; ^7..l^■^•ol|■ oF Till: soirrii-WEsr. iici iiimKMlinlc riiliirc hvcomtllfss I'niit and lio)) i-aiiclics, |»(nn'ini;' llicii' produce into \ MiUMHivcr Tor the con- sun»|)li<»ii (»r its i^Tow iiii;' 1 lioiisands, and I'oi' Iraiis- |KH'tali(>ii to the imi;'ai'd(Mi(Ml cities of llic pi-airic. WIn'lc hy sea all Ihc hooiuinu,' cities of the Sound, IVoni Seattle and Tacoina, downward, act as leedei's Tlir, CONSTANTINorLK Ol' AMKltlCA. [tioltiutn. to the traffic of Vancouver, as witness tlie crowds travellinu^ to tliem over the Canadian J^icilic Jlail- road, and the way in which the Sound steamers act as tenders for the China mail-ships tradini^ from Vancouver. So much for th(^ south side. On tli(* nortli side, across liiirrard Ink't, are myriad ishmds and inlets ■f .' ;*<■• :■■ lH ■1,U' - 1 j : 1 i* i[ ij 1 :i {1 j 362 ON THE CARS AND OFF. destined to be the seat of a fisliery trade as im])oi'taiit as the tislieries which are such a ])()ne of contention in J^astern Canada, not to mention lumber and minerals. All these i)laces, north and south, find th(Mr natural focus at Vancouver, the head of navigation and the terminus of the only transcontinental line on th.^ American continent l)clonging to a sinf,4(' company — the Canadian Pacific. But I must not forget that I am starting with tlie natural advantages of Vancouver. Its site is really exquisitely beautiful. It is planted, as I said, on ;i gentle hill, between two arms of the sea, and tliis peninsula terminates in a promontory ten miles round, still covered with the forest jirimteval, over the dei)ths of which tower giants two or three hundred feet high, cedars and spruces and Douglas firs. One cedjir measured fifty-six feet in girtli round the boll proper, al)Ove the roots. This is the public park named after the late viceroy, and presented l)y the province to the city — one of tlie most delightful j)arks imaginable, with its gigantic trees and ferns, and undergrowth and moss, so luxuriant that the (effect is semi-tropicaL This is the day of small things, and in its little coves still float flocks of duck and teal and diver and auk, Avliile on the Bay and Narrows, between which it lies, are little flotillas of Indians in their quaint Squamishe and Chinook canoes, trolling for salmon, or deep- fishing for the famous black cod, called shil by tli(* Indians, and becoming an article of commerce, as i '- ^ VASCOUVEIt : Till-: GLAt^GOW OF THE XORTIl-WEST. SCH hi'i-irc/, by tlic labours of Captain Luiulbcrg' and tlio scoro or two of hardy Xors('mon avIio have formed thcms(dves into a colony under him. its gigantic A CEDAW, FIFTY-THREE FEET ROUND, IN THE STANLEY PARK, VANCOUVER. All I'ound arc mountains. Par awav south is the magnificent white mass of Mount Baker rising from American territory with an English name, as a monument of boundary negotiations. Across English t r VI « *' ■p' I r n 304 OX Tin-: CARS and off. Bay are mountains, ri<^]it ahead are niountains, and across Burmrd Inlet are the noblest heritage a citv could have, range beyond range of mountains risiiii; thousands of feet high and coming down almost to the shore, covered with forest to their peaks, Avitli a fund of wild life that could not be exhausted in half a century, if Vancouver grew as large as San Francisco. Here for man^' a year vet the A^ancouvcr- ites, going dnv's journey into the Avilderness, will be able to nance on bear or goat, deer or panther, and wild f(j \vl galore. At one point this range draws in toward tlic peninsula, making the salmon-haunted Narrows, picturesque with the lofty precipice of the 01)serva- tion Point, and the steamer slain upon the rocks below, a mere skeleton now, but historical, as the first steamer which ever ploughed the Pacific — that .Beaver which rounded Cape Horn before the long Jubilee reign began, nearly sixty years ago — breaking uj) now Avith decay and storm, but I hope, ere its final dissolution, to be removed to the citv and made the nucleus of a Vancouver museum. But the most picturesque object in this noble harbour lies on the other side, l)eliind the mountains which make the Narrows. For on their shoulders, as bold and distinct as on the granite plinths in Trafalgar Square, seem to couch The Lions, the most perfect resemblance in nature to the couchant lions of the statuary. I say seem to couch, because these lions in reality are peaks of a range many vAyx'orvKii: T/n: Glasgow of tiik xortii-west. yuu niilos hcliiiid, showing over the front ranL!,'L'. Tlic rcscmblanco is not a fai'-t'otcliod one. It strikes every ohserver het'ore it is jjointed out to him, and it Avas this which made the; hite Judy-e Grav sui»:u'est to ^Iv. O'Brien " Tlie Lions' Gate." " The Lions' Gate " is, certainly, an admirably apt name for th(» harbour of Vancouver. Its Narrows, fenced in on one side by the precipice of Observation l\)int, and on the other l)y the mountains encroach- ini^ on the shore, are a gate ; and on a larger scale Vancouver* itself is the gate at the end C)f tiui })ass through the terrific mountain ramparts of British Columbia ; and on a yet larger scale the few degn'es of latitude in Avhicli British Columbia touches the sea are the only gates of the British Lion between tlie barriers of Alaska on the north and the United States on the south — in fact, the only gate on the American side of the Paciiic. Besides, with the L'nited States finding their " Golden Gate " at their great Paciiic port of San Francisco, it is appropriate and epigrammatic for England to find " Tlie Lions' Gate " in her great Paciiic port of Vancouver. The traveller steaming through " The Lions' Gate " need not stop at Vancouver ; he can steam eighteen miles up, past Vancouver, and past Hastings, but leaving Port ]Moody on his right, into the majestic tiord of the North Arm, hardly to l)e equalled in NorAvay, with its tAvo grand waterfalls, its black and fabulous dejiths, its precipitous mountain walls, clad with forest to their lofty plateaux, (unbosoming (=" i^ 1 1 .1 ' i .SlJfi ON THE CARS AXD OFF. lulvcs ()n tlioir summits, and populous a\ itli the antolo,)o-liko mountain g'oats. It is just as il' a valloy of the Solkirks liacl been filled liali*-A\ay u]» with the d^ep sea, terminating in a fine I'ivcM', and a vista almost as heautiful as the far-famed valley u\ the Bow at Banff. It is sublime, this fiord, so loni;'. so deep, so deeply sunk ; and as Vancouver and Tacoma and Seattle expand, its grey granite, used in their i)rincipal buildings, Avill make it important to commerce. Commerce ! At present Ave talk of the scenery of Vancouver, but in a few years all the world will l)e talking of its commerce. Even now it has several avenues of commerce defining themselves. Vancouver, Avhicli has now twenty-three thousand inhabitants, will }yc the Glasgow of the Xorth-AVest as surely as Melbourne Avill arise from its aslies ; they are both Ijeyond the reach of permanent mis- fortune. It needs no prophet to foretell the future of a city Avhich is at once the terminus of the biggest raihvay in the world and the head of naA i- gation for the trunk lines of steamships from .Vsia and Australia. Vancouver Avas designed by Nature to be one of the Avorld's great ports ; like Constanti- nople and XeAv York, it has an all-round frontage of deep Avater ; like Hong Kong, it is the outh^t of half a continent. If it Avere possible for Canada to l)e lost in the United States, there might be some risk of Vancouver's future, for it Avould have to contest Avith places like Seattle, a terminus of half a dozen IM XCOUVER : TIIK G/.AS(;n]V OF THE XOHTll-WEST. -iC. u lines of railway; ])ut Avhilc the Lions' (Jatcway remains the sole Avest(M'n outlet of lU'itish com- merce to the Pacific, i'rcnn Alaska to Cape Horn, its futm-e is assured. Vancouver, at the head of navigation, well protected from assault, will ahvays THE SKELETON OF A GIANT IX A VANCOUVER STREET. he the commercial port of Western Canada, as Victoria, or rather Esquimault, will he the naval ])()rt, lying as it does on the open sea, with no torpedoed channels to run, in command of the (Mitrance to Puget Sound, the Mediterranean ol' America. It Avas only in the spring of 188(5 that })ioneers hegan to l)uild among the gigantic ccnlars of the forest hetween 13urrard Inlet and the False r i> -,,t. m '■ 3i;h ()\ THE CA/,'S A\J) OFF. Ci'(M»k. Ill tlic Xortli-AVcst it is necessary I'oi' a town 1.) be l)m'nt to the lijround het'ore it can l)e of any account. Vancouver was lucky enoui^li to secure tliis favour at once. Its citizens Avere not to Ix' daunted. Tlie civic autliorities nu't in tents, and auctioneers established their draufons' dens in lioUow tree stumps that Avould hold tlie average wiiulniill. The i;reat railway poured moiH\v into tlu' devcdop- nient, and three years afterwards, Avhen Ave first sa^ it, it had no h'ss than sixteen thousand inhabitants. thr(H' or four l)anks, and numbers ol' stately stone buildinij^s. 1 have ahvays had an affection for Vancouvei'. Off and on Ave have sp(Mit months there. It is so fresh and younj;' and full of youthful i)luck and spirit, but Avithal so absolutely home-like in its orderliness, the ncAvest of neAV cities, unf()ri>'etful of an old-Avorld ideal. A^ancouver never AAas like Seattle. There has been no Pacific coast roAvdvisni, no revcdveriim', no instance or need of Ivnch law. The onlv (lant?er there ever Avas of disorder Avas nil)ped in the bud by the remarkable man avIio has so often filled the Mayoral chair, Mr. David Op])('n- heimer, Avho Avas one of the earliest bnsiness men ol" the toAvn, as he is one of the largest. His fortunes have groAvn Avith the city's, and the development oi' A'ancouA'er has in no small degree been due to liis foresight and energy. He has be on a man of gr(>at ideas and ambitions for his citT as avcU as his own business, in Avhich he fortunately has, as 2)artner, a ai'V loi' a can Ix' t»r I to SCCUl'l' not to l)t' touts, and in lloUo^^ Avindniill. (» dovclo])- L' ilrst sa\\ iiha1)itants, itcly stone Vancouver. It is so pluck and dike in its [()ri»'otl"ul of Avas like rowdyism, Ivnch law. isoi'dcv Avas in who has Aid OppiMi- ncss men of is fortunes elopmont oi" duo to his lan of gi'oat as his own s partnoi', a v.wcouvKR : Tin: aLAsaow or rin: xoirrii wi:>^t. '.w.) l)rother of equal capacity, but (h^votcd to trade. This has (Mial)h'(l Mr. David Oppeidieimer to devote to municipal alVairs more time than is ])ossil)le for the leadini;' l)usiness man in a new city under otiier circumstances, i'or once in a way, the man who THE WHITTINGTON OP VANCOUVEH. MR. DAVID OPPEXHEIMER. THRICE .MAYOR. was most capable of mindinii^ his own business has had time to attend to the municipality's. When the strike came, he was Bismarck and AVilli.ini AVliitelev rolled into one. The strikers found them- selves confronted Avith crushing- force to control them, and men to take their places. \'ancouver in 188J) 2)re.sente(l curious ccmtra.sts. 2L ■ if"' •;.' • i Ml ■■•\.V. ' b^< i n t I ^'i f ;4 ■■,; .Mm 37(t O.V 77//; f.lh'S .\\/) OFF. Take riraiivillc Street, I'or Instaiicc, in wliic'i we were liviiii;'. One end I(mI to the doeks, witli .'5,0011- toii steamers lyiiii;' in them, and tlie tcrniinns ol" a transcontinental railway ; tlie otlier h't't you at tlie end of a hridn'c whieh h'd to the forest, and, alter UlUTll (IF A llOlLKVAliD. VANCOUVKK. ^Snt,„i,,i miles of mud, to New Westminster. This street, like all hoom-town streets, Wiis divided olf (on pajx'r) into lots for buildiiii^. Oiie lot would have a n'raiid grey granite^ buildin*^ in flu; primitive llcmianesciue style, costini^ 10(),()()0 dollars ; and the next a Avretched little wooden shantv, or a bit of the original bush, with tall mountain ferns and mountain Yw"^ VASCOVVEIi: Til E G I.ASGOW oF Till: SoR I'll WEST. I'.TI whic'l we ith :V(MH)- limis of a -oil at the ami, al'tcr [Snt.Hd.i. This stivct, f (on pa])!'!') ivo a invalid llomancsciuc the n(^xt a l)it ol' the iiitl nioiuitain ashes aiul doi^-woods. Tin's was in the main or civilised ])ortioii ol' the street ; hinlier up, as voii to|)j)e(l tlie hill to i;'o over to the l'\ilse Creek, there were stiim))s of trees in plenty — trees that had l)een a eoiipi*' ol" hundred I'eet hii'h in their day. \'an- couver has miles and miles of wooden ])avinj;' — wood is ciiea)) in N'ancoiiver ; h)ni^' Ix'Tore they make a road they make the pavements, the inecpialities of the road heini;' i^ot over hy raising' the j)avement on j)iles to a commcm level. In the winter one blesses the nuinicipal paver, for tlie mud is oceanic. There an; also wooden crossing's. The extraordinary thini"' about Vancouver is that in the midst of all this wildncss it is so absolutely modern ; no one would think of ])utting' up a house without a teh'phone and electric liii'lit. Tramways all run themselves bv eleetricitv, and tlnn'e are two or three dailv ncAvs- l)apers printed by electricity. The ])retty i;irl was equally imi)resse(l by this and by the conversation of the real-estate men. Their system for making- a fortune in tAvelve months bv investment in Vancouvcn* lots was reduced to such a science that thev did not feel themselves bound to hurry about j)uttim;' it into practice ; they knew that they could get just as rich as thcA^ liked whenever thev wanted, but thev did not like strangers with a tittle money, who Avere only going to ])e in A'ancouver for a few days or weeks, to go away Avithout assuring tlnnr futures. The pretty girl begged mc to invest in a shilling piece for her — it seemed (piite enough in a place; 1*" i. I W'lr .iV2 ti\ nil i\l{S ,|,\7> nil' Vi 'tJ: Where moMe> \\fis ni;i(le sm e!iNil\ MIK I \\\ leil N he i;ul It.ieK \n MonlrenI she (ohi |>eo| )h* HimI she vvniileil li i;el iMMirietl so Ih.'il her i^reM(-i;'niiHlehihlreii mii;hl he inillioMMires. lor she htnl won t\ seveiil \ -(i\ e eeiH hel III (he \ ;nu'oii>er Ke^jil(;i. mihI speiil il. on ImimI MS uc:\y New Wesjniinslcr ms Ihe niuil wouhl h'l |)eo|)h< <;(». There never wms nnvlhini;' like Ihe nin innipei;- in the Mntnnin, ms I sMis w heiH'ver von Mre not lieMdin!"' on M (h>i;'. On the WMV to Wj'st nnnster (the New one) there were pMnthers thrown in, Mnd th<>v hMd m disMi;reeMhh' WMV of JoHowini'' von like vonr nIimcIow . idt.«'rinii iivnesonn' vowls, Mller nii;htrMll; hnt th(<\ Mre sMid never to MttMok hnniMn hint's, Mnd tln\v certMinlv will not iMce the reMl-iVstMie men h)ni;'. In N'Mneonver. it is the i>reMt thini;; to he i'onn<'i't(Ml with the imviI estMte or the vMiiwMV stMtion ; it assnn's your position in society. thes(» h(»ini;" the t woexi'itcnients of existence. Kesid(>nts hMd mII invested their hottoni ,i.\.^i,i)\\ in' I III \nin II \\i>i. .17:1 •^uini;' Kill ol' I III' i^tcmI ('liiiin strjiiiirr. Tlic h.'iic I'lH'l. mI' 11 iiiiim's romiiiL;' Id Vniicoiiv rr li\ ti';iiii w.is mImiomI siiDicinil inlriKliirlioii. Itisiilr of mm hour 4. very n>;il-(>st>itr iioiii in llir pincr nmhiM kiiiiv\ liim iiiul Ills luisiiirss ill Viiiinni\ cr, Jiml |>i-(,]»)il)l,v wIiiIIkt lie IdkI Miiy rmiiily or ;i, lirrcdil/iry disnisc. Tlirrr WMs mInmivn <;iiiii(I rvrilciiM'iil wlirn n stoiiiu'r rniiir III ll'OIII CI iiiwi or .1; iiiinii. Tl ir \oillii'' iiicii o r \ III- coiiN cr WJM'c llii(.lriT(l willi lln- idoi. ol' siiinil woiim'ii /Hissiiiil, Mild only lliosc \vli<» li.'ivr lived in llir rii wilds know (lie ('\(|iiiNil(' |dr)iNiirr excited l»y llie sin'lit ol' llie dniiily woniMiiliood, lielween ulii(di Jiiid llienisidveM lliey littve set. ti, urejit Liiill'. The rejil- rslnle iiieii drennil. ol' w iiii^in^;' ji. lirsl. ('hiss ^lohe- li'oller, ;Mid the whole popii'Ml ion e\|ieeled soinet hini; lo liini lip, lhoiiL>li it WMS iisiiMlly only silk mikI Icm. which were shot, into trucks ms |>r(Mii|»t ly ms mII Hie iMhoiir in the phicc ctHild shoot I hem, scMled up, mikI sent IcMi'inu,' Mcross to .MontrcMl mikI New \ovk ms I'msI. MS engines could IimmI. They do My Mcross the pi'MiricN, I'or they cmiiiioI iMke liheilies with the iiioiinlMiins. it, is sMid lluit more ciL>-Mrs come in hy M. ChiiiM. stcMiner tliMii ever pMss tlnfuiL^h ll<'r iMMJ<'st.y's ('iisto?ns, miiiI HimI iiiMiiy passe nn'c is mi'c h>sl. while the ship is Mimost. at, the dock - Cliinamcii. Their bodies are iiev<'r r< vvhit(^ sands helovcd ol" the , 1 > ( > i'l .h .< f im OS THE CARS Ai\D OFF. batlicrs oi' Vaiicoiivor, aiul watcliiiig tlio sun set over its waters, and the long line of forest primievr' on the k^ft, I had said to myself, " Here am I on tlie last mainland of tlic British Empire, at tlie western end of the English world on Avliich the sun never sets. To cross these shining Avaters to tlu' world's eastern end, in place of the weary circum- navigation of the Cape of Storms, Avas the dream ol" great sailors lik(» Columhus and great adAenturers like La Salle." "When 1 Avent hack to Vancouver, lying against th(^ wliarves Avas the sturdy Fart/iia, fresli from Cliina and Japan, and looking as smart and taut as if no Avave had eA-^er sAvept her decks. Leaning over her side? Avas a splendid-looking man Avell over six feet high, Avith the typical insouciance of tlie sailor and a remarkahly handsome face. " Can Ave see over the ship ? " I asked. " Come on," he said, and slioA\ed us over every nook and cranny, and talked up the attractions of China and Jaj)an so gloriouslv that Ave did not see lioAV we could stav aAvay, and thus it A\'as that at a Aveek's notice a\(' started for that never-to-he-forgotten year in the divine East. The environs of VancouA'er could hardly l)e lovelier. The city stands on a gourd-shaped peninsula, only joined to the mainland hy an isthmus. The smaller and seaAvard glohe of the gourd is occupied hy the Stanley Park, a hit of the forest primieval, " un improved " except hy carriage roads and Avoodland tracks to the grandest trees — of Avhicli hereafter ; I ■ i i *th r,:! isouciaiico VA XCVrVEIi : THE GLASGOW 0/<' 77//; XO/iT/I- WEST. .'}7,-i the lai-ge or Inndward ii'lobo of tlic i^'oiird coiilaiiis the city, mostly on its iiortlnvard, or JJurravd's Inlet, sliorc. On the othcn* side of the broad iiih^t, dotted Avitli ]iug'(? ships, is th(^ little white mission station for tlie [iidians, i^rowiniJ^ \i\) under the shadoAV of a mojister saw-mill, and the s])len(lid Caj)ilano ^loiin- tains, several tlioiisand feet hii^li, wliieh culminate in two most remarkahly natural lions, almost as li(m-lil\e as th(^ g-reat heasts that i»'uard Nelson in Trafalij^ar Square, and iiiv, forested witli hug-e trees almost from their summits to the sliore. On tin; soutViern side of the i;'ourd is tlu^ Fals(» Creek, widening- out into the uohle exi)anse of l"]nglish Jiay, perhaps to he tlu* harbour of the future. Across the False Creek is the forest ])rima'val ; eastward from the city runs the noble North Arm, like\\ ise embosonu'd in hill and forest, as beautiful as a Norwegian fiord. Stanley Park, in s])ite of its cheaj) suljurban name, is (\Kquisite. Ther(^ arc; trees in it — Douglas iivs and cedars, forty and fifty feet roimd, and two or three hundred feet high, based in a tropical Avealth of lichen, fringed lianas, and gigantic ferns. It has a lew maples, not enough to lighten its de])ths of sombre foliage, but with leaves as much as fifteen, inches across. In some jdaces it sludves gently to th(* inlet ; iu others, as at the first Narrows, it ter- minates in lofty precipices, under the most majestic of which lies, on the crags, the skeleton of the plucky little Beaccr. She Avo'ild not 1)e considered large ^•> ■iiit m i : 4 ' V >.;!ii!*' r '. : ^f i i ft '1 r,. 376 ON THE CARS AND OFF. onougli to cross tlio Channel noAvadays. The SiAvashos, tlio feohlc Indians of the coast, are allowed to camp on its fringes as they choos(% and in the little hays round their favourite camjiini,^- ground the A'arious kinds of ducks are apt to flock, hecause there is no shooting tliem from the land. One daA% Avhen I Avas out shootiniij in a dugout a\ ith an old SiAA'ash, Ave had shot after shot sj)oilt hecause there AAcre Indians in a line Avitli the ducks. Tlie SiAvash Avas A'erA" angr\' hecause I AAould not fii*e. Jle said, " Indians don't mind " ; hut Avhen I told him that it Avas the close; season for Indians he Avas ([uite conA'inced ; he kncAV that ducks had a close season, and he did not see Avliy the Indians should not. " Are not tiAC sparroAVs sold for one farthing ? " We had capital sport going out Avitli a SiAvash in the XarroAvs. On the first day the matter-of-faet Avoman refuscnl to risk her life in a Chinook canoe (Avhich is dug out of a trunk of a tree), so I took the pretty girl. Trolling a spoon on a handline, she soon caught tAVO s])lendid salmon, Avhicli Avill hite in tlie salt Avater, though ncA'er knoAvn to take a hait in the fresh ; one Aveighed thirteen pounds, and the otlier fifteen. I sj)ent most of my time in losing spoons in the lianas of seaAV(»ed, fathoms and fathoms long, and in Avishing that I had a gun. The pretty girl a>ou1(1 sooner trust a AvidoAver than trust herself in th(» same hoat Avitli a gun, so the next dav I Avent alon(\ Tlie fiinuA^ old SiAvash knoAvn as Alexander's William — .?* VANCOUVER : THE GLASGO W OF THE .\Oh'T//-]VEST. 377 they take a Christian name and tho i^fniitivc case of tlio employer's name — was uni^allant enoiii^li to say, "Good! i^ood! gun more? <^ood than Klootchman" (woman), and off Ave paddled. AVe could not L>'et near a duck, and last of all a\ e w(n'e cau«^lit in the rip. Now the rip in thci lirst Narrows at YaiicouvcM* is an awesome tliinj^, for th(; chani»;ini^ tid(^ rushini>' in from the Pacific siuldenly finds itself strani^-led in a narroAv i?orge, and lias to pih? its water throug'h. You find yourself without any wariiinu;' in the middle of a condition of waters which se(^m as if all tlie steamers in the universe had just passed. I looked at William ; far from heing disconcerted, there was distinct elation on his debased Mongolian counte- nance, lie mentioned that if vou let th(; dugout look after itself, it was so buoyant that it topjied the waves of its own accord, and said, " Xow you get duck." And surely enough I did. To an Indian's canoe, ])ol3])ing up and dowji in the rij), half tlu; tim(; hidden in the slough of the wavers, the ducks paid not the slightest attention, and I had soon killed over a score of black duck and teal, not to mention the handsome fish-duck (sheldrake), auk, and diver, Avhich are useless for the table. The Avorst of catching salmon Avas that \^ou did not knoAV AA'hat to do with them Avhen vou had caught them. Then' Avere not Avorth a cent a pound, and it A\as an insult to offer them to anybody as a i)resent ; not even a music-teacher Avould accept them. TIk^ only plact^ Ave ever had salmon at Vancouver A\as at the house I^T 'f • f. r U ;iii M4' MS' I" \i i t H 1 i '] 1 * k ' i ^ 1 ! : i' 1^ i it 4 -m ^■^ ^^■'.m 378 o.Y r//A' ai/?.s j.v/:> OFF. of an inventor, Avith Mlioni avc IxKirdcd for a Avhilc. Tliorc Avc lived on salmon and tinned tonjj^ue. Of course, tlie invention was called the C.P.K. ; everythini,^ in Vancouver is C.lMl., fmm the bio- hotel doA^'n^^•al'ds. Wlien we land(Ml at Vancouver hy a coastins: steanKU' from San Francisco, on our [XotllW.H, SIEAMKK ''ISLANDER," AT VANCOUVER, WITH TIIK MISSION AND FOREST PRIMAEVAL IN THE BACKGROUND. return from Japan, an Americaii working- man landed likewise. The first thiiii,^ he did, beini,^ accustomed to ruliiii*- a great countiy, was to inqu::: of a man Avorking on tlie Avharf, "What's i]\Q Government here ? " "Tlie C.P.R.'s the Government here," Avas tlie sage reply and virtual truth. VAXCOrVKR : THE GLASGOW OF THE SOUTH- WEST. 37!> Ul kinu: man 111 our (lay, tlKHiii'li the city liad 1(1, ()()() iiilial)itants, they were none of thorn postincn, so tlio (Jciicral Post-oilico Avas the gcnoral rcndcv-vous. About hall" au lioiiv after the arrival of No. 1, tlic tmuscoii- tiueutal from Montrcnxl, a i>-irl could bo almost sure of meotiiii^ all Iuh' lovers, and a man could Ix' perfectlv certain of meetinii; everv idle \nv\ in Vancouver. The YancouAor g'irl lives on lov(»-letters from the East (of Canada), and Inn* sho])pini4' is done in Montreal or San Francisco, or even London, groceries being about the only decent tiling you can l)uy in Vancouver, except Siwasli curios and Chinese gold bangles, which nobody ever bouglit excei)t ]Mr. Logan, M.P. lie consider(Ml them a mi^re relial)le investment than real estate. ]\[r. Logan was very much impressed with boom city methods (the advanced type of boom city such as Seattle) ; lie Avoiild introduce many of them into England, ir any one Avishes to see the Caliban of labour in his most brutal shape, let him go to Seattle. This is the kind of thing which happens : I Avas kodaking a ])ublic building, Avhicli I suppose had taken a couple of davs or so to build, Avhen a navvv left his A\()rk about a hundred yards oft' and SAvaggered up to me. " Say, sonny, I Avant you to fix me." " I'm not a photographer; I only take the pictures I want myself," "I don't Avant an;\ of your style. Just say what it is, and I'll put the money up." " But I don't live here." \\S y ■ ' f- ^ ■H i.H iWJ- ,1 ' '^ I .",80 ,/'■- i-if •I ii{ '^^.V T/JE CARS AXD OFF. " What do I caro Avliero you live ? Givo ^no yoiu' address, and I'll mail you the money ; and you needn't send th(? pictures along till you get it, if you don't trust me." Then a fell purpose entered my heart. I knew the address of a struggling photographer at Van- couver, so I gravely wrote it down for Calil)an, and told him the charge was three dollars, and then took his photogvaj)h without taking the cap off. He did not understand kodaks, and was quite satisfied witli the click of the button. I hope he sent the three > dollars, and that the needy one stuck to them. The commerce of Vancouver is very large ; she almost monopolises the silk and tea trade between America, China, and Japan; and her three great Cliiiia steamers — the Empress of India, Empress of China, and Empress of Japan, the equal of the At- lantic liners in everything except the size of the very largest — have reduced the journey between Liver- pool and Yokohama to within three weeks. And in the last few months I see that the line, for whicli 1 wrote and agitated so much, between Canada and .Vustralia has been started by the energy of Mr. Jam(\s Huddart, of Huddart, Parker & Co., Melbourne. I cannot conclude better than by quoting tlie (estimate made of Vancouver's future after I had left it for the first time in 1889. '• I fancy that I can see Vancouver when her hour Jias come, as Melbourne's came. Great docks lined with ocean steamers fill the mouth of the Ealse Creek, A i ^ > *._ VANCOUVER : THE GLASGOW OF THE XORTIl-WEST. :WI and front the future terminus of tlie Ccinadiaii Vacific Railroad, in tli(^ heart of their broad transpontine grant, on which the tall forest primaeval will have given place to the huge chimn(\ys of the manufactories of machinery, furniture, cottons, refined sugar, wood- Avarc, hardware, fruit canneries for tlic produce ol' the Eraser delta, smelting furnaces for the reduction of the iron and copper ores of the islands, saw-mills. MR. HARRY ABBOTT, 27(6 Princii'al tnhaOH",'! of I'oncoi've,- t I' 2Y I had left foundries, yards for building and repairing the iron shipping of the Pacific, and a score of other industries at present unguessed. I see the whole delta of the Eraser and its tributaries one vast orchard and hop- garden, smiling like Kent or Sussex. I see the residences of the Avell-to-do crowded out of the narrow limits of the peninsula, and spreading, some down the opposite ;:-;ide of Eurrard Inlet from ^loody- ville to Howe Sound, some througli a chain of suburbs, rei)lacing with theu* neat gardens the a\ hole t:i< -..)! 1-.^ 41 V 'ff I 1*: m' ii i .1 1 I 4 HI'} .1 \*-' M82 o.v '/-///•; r'.i/i'.s .i.\7> n/'/'. I'on'st l)('t\v(MMi N'jiiicouvcr and Xcw Wcstniiiistci-. Street railways, siil)iii'I)aii railways, and luatiy IVri'y- l)oats ii'ivc rapid coinimmicat ion witli the heart ol the eity tli(» oi-ii^iiia! city on the |)eiiiusiila, \\herc iWT the cathedral, some ol' the linest churches, th(' finest hotels, the cluhs, the theatres, the hanks, the wholesale Avarehouses, the hoardini;' houses, the Hroadway and Fil'th Avenue, the l'\)urteenth and 'i'wenty-third streets, Avith their niai»'ni:^"ent stores a |)art of the city too evjxMisive I'or ordinary folks to have houses there, not ])rivate or scdect enouL;'h I'oi- the very rich, except in the remoter part faciii!;' Kn^'lish Hav, Avith its tine sandy heach and its proximity to the park. Here there is (piite a colonv of tluMii — an aristocratic suhurh. iiut many ol' the very wenlthy i)r(M'er to have villas on what i)latea!!\ can he I'ound amid the ])recipitous shores ol" that ])eerless liord, the North Arm, or on the foothills of the i^rand mountains which line the north side of Hurrard Tnlet — th(» north side made heautiful Ir. its avenue, miles lonu;, aloni^side of the water, and ])lante(l with heautiful mai)les, Avhose carmine leaves in the fall shoAV up j^doriously ai^ainst tln^ daik spruce and cedar of the oriii-inai Hrnvsts. Xothini;' could l)(^ finer than the Citv Park in the twenti(*tli centurv. FolloAvini*: tlie Avatcu', a drive of ten miles encircles it. Hound the Avater's edi^'e are li'rowini;' famously the maph^s, sumachs, cherries, and oaks, hirches and poi)lars planted to make it hrilliant i^hnmi in spring", and hrilliant Hame colour in the fall. The L' iM xcovviiii : Tin: (;l.\s(;<)\v >if 77//; soirrii- \n:sr. mi forest, is Icl't mitoiiclicd, witli its stately trees, its niii^lity I'ei'iis, its liaiii^iiiu,- mosses. " IMejisaiit paths Tor lovers to ramble in the summer sliach' are cut into its s\ Ivan recesses, and in it roam all tlve wild animals and birds ol" the countrv tiiat are not dani^'erons to man, introduced and hahituaied with inlinite tronhle, and ])rotecte(l i'rom wantonness hy ])iil)lic o|)ini()ii. Tiiere are otlier |)arks in various parts of tlie city, and a sujx'rh athletic i;'roun(l, wiiei'e, hy tiie inllux ol" lMii;'lish and Australians, cricket is restored to its lenitimate ])ride of ))lace. h(?t\veen the citv and the i-reat cannervand saw-uiill towu of New U'estiuinster is a tine race track, caUed J^Memini^'ton hy tiie enthusiastic Australians, wiio <4'ot it u]) to conscde them for tl;eir distance from .Mell)()urne. At the very liiii;hest ])oint of the jXMiiusiihi stands the liiiest l)uihlini;' in the city — th(^ luai^'nilicent Episcopal catliedi-al of tiie united diocese (united uiucli to tlie dis^-ust of West- miusterians) ol' Vancouver and New Westminster; and not far olV is its rival in p()])ubirity and o])ubMiC(; — the rebuilt St. Andrew''s Presbvterian church. " Ikirrard Inlet is full ol' slii])])in^'. Its w harves arc lined M'ith local ])assen«^er st(*amers, with shi))s from Portland, Taccmia, Seattle, A^ictoria, Nanaimo, Alasl and the like, concentratini^ at Vancouver the local trade of the Pacific ; wliile out on its deep bosom lie two or three Jiritish men-of-war, easilv recoi'-ni sable 1)V their u])rii'ht masts and i>'rim soliditv, even if they were not flying' the white banner ol' n ,.»»■ 1 >■ i> •I (:' *tf m A 884 ().\ I'm: ( \iis AM) OFF. SI. (I('()ri;'(' ; uikI hctvcci) (licni jiihI the sliorc urc a ci'OAvd ol' yachts, ^lost ol* tlic wcaltliy iiicrcliants lixiiii;- up the Xortli Ann or on I'Jii^lisli Hay liavc lliflr smart steam yachts. And tlic residential and slio|)|)iiii;' streets are I'nll ol' handsome carriai^-es, and th'» l)usiness streets are hh)cke(l witli street railways and Avai^£!;ons and cahs ; and tliere i;'oes u]) to heaven the minij;ded echo, joyous and mournl'ul, eai^'er and imUden*^, of ;5()(),0()() of earth's voices to shoAV wliere the most, untiring ol' commercial nations lias at last found the Ijions' Gate to tin* AVestern Pacilic." ii» i [ I 6 8 ,'r ■M.I ! I This seems the hest j)hice to quote a very in- teresting' account of tlie Bearer, the pioneer steamer of the Pacitic alluded to ahove, Avhicli api)ear(Ml four or live years ai:^o in tlu; Vdnrourer World, an e.vccdlent daily, worthy of a city four times the size. " Fifty-five yviivs have pass.ul, and a g'eneration ol' ni^n have ccmie and g'one, since the Hudson's Jiay C()mj)any's steamer Ikarcr tioated doAvn the river ^i'hames, throui^h the British Channel, and went out into th(^ open, trackless sea, rounded Cape Horn, cl()V(» the i)laci(l waters of t.^e Pacitic Ocean, and anchored at leni^th, aftdr a passaii^e of a hundrcvl and sixty-three days, at Astoria, then one of the chief toAvns on the Pacitic coast. Puilt and equi])i)ed at a period wIkmi the prohlem of steam mariiu' navii»'ati()n was ahout to he solved, is it anv wonder that the \\\\\c steanun' which was (destined to traverse two V \ %> ^f tarn sliorc JUM' ncrc'liJints liiiy liiivc Mitial and iai;'('s, and t I'uihvavs to luNivcii ca^'cr and low where las at last lie. b very in- ['V stcaiiKM' )ear(Ml four 11 ('xcelliMit leration of Ison's Bay the river Avoiit out- age Horn, Ocean, and iidred and ■ the chief ii|)])ed at a na\iiijati()n r that the aAcrse two II w 05 Hi u u -*lM^*t*^i >i^ i* m' I 4^ ■ Kl m VAsanivKii : THE GLAsanw itF I HE yonrii-wiisr. wh^ II .r ^'^ occims — one of tlicin scart'cly known outside ol" hooks of travel — was an oI»j(»ct of dec]) jirid cn^rossin*^ interest, f'oni the day tliat licr keel was lirst laid imtil the mornin*'' that sh<' passi'd out of sii^lit, amidst tlie (Micourau^iniif cheers of thousands i^-athered on either shor(» and the answerijii? salvoes of her own f^uns, on a loni^ voya^-e to an unknown sea r Titled men and women watclied the proi^ressof construction. A duchess broke; the traditional hotth; of cham])aii:no over the ])ow, and hestowed the name slie has ever since proudly worn. The eui-ines and boilers, built by Bolton tfc Watt (the latter a son of tiu' .'reat Watt), Avere placed in their ])r()])er positions on board; but it was not considered safe to work them on the passa^^e, so she was rii;i;'ed as a hrii^' a)id canu; out under sail. A bar(j[ue accompanied her as a convoy to assist in case of accident ; but tlie Jh'dirr set all canvas, ran out of sij^'ht of h(>r ' ])rotector,' and reached tin; Columbia River twentv-two davs ahead. Captain llorne was the name of the Hrst commander of the Bearer ; he brought her out, and one can well imagine the feeling of pride with Avhich he l)estr()de the deck of his l)rave little ship, which carried six • guns — nine-pounders. Soon after reaching .Vstoria the Beaver got up steam, and greatly astonished the residents by her i)crforniances. IShe steamed up to Nisqually, then the Hudscm's Bay Company's chief station on the Pacific coast. Here Captain ^IcNeil took command of the Bearer, and Captain llorne, retiring to one of the Company's i)osts on the 25 r't' v' ' '1 386 ON THE CARS AXD OFF. Columbia River, perished in 1837 in Death's Rapids by the upsetting of a boat. Erom that period until the steamer passed into the hands of the Imperial Hydro- graphers the history of the Beaver was that of most of the Company's trading vessels. She ran north and south, east and west, collecting furs and carrying goods to and from the stations for many years. It is believed that not a single person who came out in the Beaver in 1835 is now alive, and nearly all the Company's officers, with a few exceptions, who received her on her arrival at the Columbia River are gone too." .L l's E^apids i until the al Hydro- of most of north and L carrymg ars. It is me out in fly all the ions, who ibia Eiver CHAPTER XXVI. VICrORTA : THE CITY OF HOMES. rriHEIlE is one prime difference hetAveen Victoria -^ and Vancouver — that, while the development of Vancouver has l)een chiefly 1)y outside capital, the development of Victoria has been carried out with the savings of its citizens. The amount of accuiyulated wealth in Victoria is astonishing. Until federation it was a free port, and consequently the entrepot of the Pacific coast ; and it is such an earthly Paradise that people pursued the unusual course for colonists of remaining where they had made their money. Vancouver's Island is the New Zealand of the North, with a climate which is occasionally intemperate in its humidity, but maintains an unruffled equability of temperate temperature. Here, with your garden running down to some fairy-like cove of the branch- ing harbour, like Sydney Harbour in miniature, you live 6,000 miles from the Irish question, and a solid 3,000 from the manufactories of American politics. It is true that Victoria has a grievance — largely an exotic one, for the " sealers " are often run with American capital, making a catspaw of the British flag. Not that they are not in the right who r:sT I" h\ i^r tf ,,:.v I i f f \ .•}H8 OA' 77//'; r.'.l/;.S J.\7) OFF. maintain tliat the polai^'ic soal is "a wild beast of nature, " and that an ocean cannot be included in a tliree miles limit ; but even il' pelai^-ic sealing' were really an act of theft, Victoria is for the most 2)art not the tlii(»f , but th(» Fence w ho does the fitting-out for tlio raid and disposes of the proceeds. Tinx^ little boats Tin: iiAKnouu ok victoria. [.Vo(..i"U. H .1 f they are, the sealing schooners, very much th(^ cut of the m(Ml-of-^^ ar schooners which police tin; Pacilic Islands from Sydney. They defy the tempestuous Xorth Pacific ami the United States re\ cnue cutters, which are not cutters at all, but armed steam \ aclits. Victoria is the most homely city in Canada in more senses than one. More than any city in Canada, excej)t perhaps Halifax, does it recall the \ i VICTORIA: TlfE CITY OF IK) M IIS. ;5si) boast, of u\{\\ in a iiiii^' wore t part not int i'or tlio ttlo boats old homo across the Atlantic, by its (^uiot Eiii,4isli ways and its little knots of men witli tlie lirm, dii^nifiod faces bred of discipline and autliority ; and it is homely in the other s(Mise of boinu' the citv of homes. The Victoria pcoph; live very little in terraced streets ; whatever their occupations or rank, [To/..'")i. "CHINA TOWN," VICTOUIA, B.C. h the cut ^he Paciiic Liipcstuoiis no cutters, im vachts, Canada in y city in recall tlio they are apt to have a detached house in an irroi^ular bit of garden. For the working man it is, of course, easy to have a cottage; just outside tlie city, witli a cow and a kitchen garden ; he has not to face tlio servant question ; he and his family divide; the labour inside; and out. The clerk, Avho is, as usual, the worst-off person in the community, though his social position is a pleasant one in Jiow countries, can only achieve a :m O.V T/ll-: CARS AM) OFF. ■ i home 1)V slmriiiL!; a lioiist^ ami a Cliinainau. AVc kiiOAv of sovoral iiistaiiccvs Avhon^ liall' a dozen bacliolors clul)1)('(l toi^ctlKM' in tliis Avay, and bore in "oiumon tlio loss by tlic ])ocnlations ol' \\\v Moni'-olian. The liii^licst tribntc to \\\v lioinclincss of Victoria I liad iToni a Yank(H? steward of a coastiiii; steamer tradini;* rroivi San L\*ancisco to Victoria, avIio said tbat lie and many ol' his mates lived in Victoria because tli(\v could have real homes there, and because tin? a])i)roach to th(^ docks in l^risco was so infested with " toni»'hs " that th(\y did not like their families couiini^' to meet them there. Talkini*' of Chinamen, Victoria has one of th(5 best "China toAvns" out of China. Its chief floss-IEouse is uuetjualled in San l^'rancisco, and you iwv not plagued to buy joss sticks at fiv(^ tiuies tlieir value. It has long' rows of shops stored with samshui, th(^ Chinese rice-spirit; and unsavoury Cidestial savouries, such as s(piash(Ml ducks, whole ca])les of knotty black sausaijfes, and vile c(mrponnds of fat ; besides more enteri)risini;' (Muporia in Avhich th(\y sell curios, such as Clr*'<'s(» water-pipes, ladies' shoes, ink ])alettes, opiun ales, and tiny p(n'celaiu iiL>'ures like those ma(l( -r the j^irls' festival in ,)aj)an, and ply the; probanle purcliascn* Avitli i(\\ in the Oriental fashion. The shops themselves, as is the case even in China in the i)()rts, differ very little from European sho2)s in tlieir arranij^ements. Victoria has a Chinese tlu^atre, of course, and opium dens. As in Australia, much of the hawking of Victoria is done by China- VlCTOfUA : THE dlTY OF HOMES. 391 mon, Avho carry their Avarcs, as " Sinipson " used to carry his milk, in tlur '^ood old days wiicii ho could water it with impunity, dan^liiii;* from the; ends of a rod halanc(Ml on tlu^ shoulder. One such I souL,'ht to kodak. lie iled in horror from tlu; (;vil eye* when I made my requt^st, and was " shot " in the act. A CIIINIiSH llAWKKK, VKTOIMA, Il.C. Victoria lias an extraordinary wealth of flowers and creepers. From the ruralisini^ hahits of its citizens, it is miturally not a city of lin(; huildings, thouj^h it has a liaiulsome Anglican cathedral, occupying one jf its I'nest sites, and a far famous hotel. One of the pi'ides of Victoria is, like Sydney's, its harhour, though a harhour in Avhich hig ships will not trust themselves is more ornamental than useful. Its Ml( ?51 *t. I ■ :i'j2 ON Till': CAJt^ AM) OFF other pride is tlie Beacon Hill Park, which is ratlier like an Aiistraliaiv domain. Tliey mij^ht add one or tAVo more — the Avig's of their judges (for in Victoria alone in America do judges appcir in the full majesty of the laAv), and tlie compk^xions of their women, which are (piite Englisji, a thing much envied on tlie continent of stupendous climates. Eeacon llill Park lias a most lovely view. Staiiding near its quaint liattery, Avliich is of the type kept up for the henefit of artists, one can look straight across the l)lue Juan de Euca Straits at the snowy sierra of the Olympian Mountains heliind, far doAvn in American territory, lorded over hy the nohle isolatiMl coJie of Mount Baker, which, as long as its nauu.' is Baker, will recall the folly of the English lord who lianded it over to the Unit(*d States as American territory, though its ])earing th(^ name of an oflicer of sturdy old Captain Vancouver should have told him that it had l)eert taken possession of hy li]ngland Avhile still no man's land. A very homely-looking iilace is Victoria ; its cathedral recalls tlie garrison church at Southsea, and its women are so English-looking in their dress. The Avealthy ones all get their gowns from England — they used to even in the old days, Avlieii goods had to come in sailing vessels round the Hope and the Horn. The Governor of British Columhia has his home here, and the city has a capital club — the Union — always full of bronzed and bearded naval officers, and ranchers from the mainland, taking a VICTORIA : Till-: CITY OF IKtMES. WXi lioliday. I think oiiv liomc in Victoria must liavc been tlu^ most unique in the city. We took lodgings with a clear ohl " Cousin Jacky," wlio liad come out from Cornwall in th(^ year of the Ari^^onaiits, ajwl eventually found his way np to the heart of 13ritisli Colmnbia in the famous " Cariboo rush," where he VICTORIA, B.C., SHOWISG THE ANGLICAN' CATHKDUAL. \.Nufni«n. forsook gold mining*, as he had forsaken tin mining, for the more protitable rule of goldfields storekeeper. Great tales he used to toll of the old Cariboo shaving with champagne, bathing in champagnes, playing Aunt Sally with full bottles, and what not. It cost about four guineas a l)ottlc by the time it was landed at Cariboo, three or four hundred miles up country ; but what did money matter in those days ? They m % ¥ !1 i , I 11 ;3it4 <).\ THE CARS AXD OFF. just (lid it hocauso tlioy Avantcd to havo tlio fun of spondini^ money, and had not a single rational thini^ to speiul it on. It was a fine time for barmaids ; there Avere plenty of bars in Cariboo, but few maids. It was quite tlu; thing for a miner who had had a good washing to i)ull out his chamois leather bag and offer ? ban id her choice of the nuggets. "Cousin JatK;. " hod made a good deal of money, but he prefeiTi * r : koen lodgings, and to keep them in his shirt sleeves, lie lid not put his coat on or turn his sleeves down for dinncn*, which he and his Avife always took with the lodgers, though they never cared to eat anvthing. It Avas a matter of dignity — free countries have their responsibilities. These compromises with his dignity were matters of hourly occrn-ence ; they kept no servant, so he had to hcAv the wood and draw the water for his wife, but he did it as a caress and not as a necessity. The fact that they were both about seventy, and he weighed about 300 pounds, did not seem to discount romance. Another compromise Avas cleaning the pretty girl's boots. He did not knoAV that the Avliole comedy had already been played at Peninsula. In free countries you have so often to clean your own boots or go to a public deanery, Avhicli has its inconveniences for a lady. So the first morning after we arrived, Avhen he caught her in the act of cleaning her boots, he took the brushes aAvay from her. He explained that the only reason he did it — he would have seen us in Seattle before he Avould have touched anv of ours — , 'I VICTORIA : THE CITY OF HOMES. 896 was that, if he had been a gcntknnan he Avoiild have ventured to he in love with her. lie made no pret(;nce of heing a i^entleman. It was the all-men-are-e([ual theory which tickled his sense. Finding that we *' had no style ahout us," as he expressed it, ineanini^ to he complimentary and imply an ahsence of affectation (the result of years in the colonies), he took a ii;reat liking to us, which was not without its emharrass- nicnts, for the more hospitable he grew the thicker he cut your slices of roast heef. lie never n-vf^v tired of telling us that he was a "forty-nii. r. One day the pr^^tty girl asked him what it n -ani, and he replied with pride that he was one .." ».'ie oricfinal miners of '19 who founded the fortanc of California. The reply was crushing, in spi: of its innocence and ignorance — " 17 19 or 1819 ? " lie was a " forty-niner " with a vengeance — the sort of man who shows you old maids' curiosities. His contempt for Canadians was paralysing. Your British Columbian old-timer can stand the Britisher if he does not " put on too much style " ; but he thinks the Canadians — by which he means Eastern Canadians — too mean to live. The Canadians re- taliate by calling him a shell-])ack. It is very curious how the British Columbian prefers the En":lishman to the Canadian of the Eastern Provinces. The new comers in British Columbia, who are not from the old country, are largely from Brockville and the neighbouring parts of Ontario, from New Brunswick, and of course Montreal. I, I! I*' '^^< ^vjl )>a |.^' m\ ox /'///•; C.I/i'N .|.\7> OFF. Kslic holiday, and tramways do tiot iMiii on public iiolidays in " the city of liomcs"). There Avas a hon hoiiclh'. for sii^ditseers, in tlie sliapc^ of a slii])\vreci\e(l maii-ol'-war, hroui'iit into the i;raviiiL? (h)ck hy a mirach', hall' I'lill ol" water and hall' capsi/ed, which had happened in this wise. It was not considered snUlciently imposini^' I'or the (Jovernor-Oeneral, and Commander-in-Chiel" of Her ^lajesty's J^'orces in Cainwhi, to makc^ the I'ew hours' sail from Victoria to Vancouver in th(^ smai't littler Ifiltiiulcr, a heautH'ul sixteen-knots twin-screw boat, built on tlie Clyde on pur|)ose I'or this trade; so instead ol' i^'oiui;' in a vess(d ol' lii^ht draught, navi- j^'ated by a man who threaded t' o tortnous ])assai;'es ol' this watery Kden twice every day ol" tlu' year, h<; was sentenced to be tak(m in a bii^' niaii-ol'-war, which had [)rol)ably nc^yer doiu; the trip before. Added to this there Avas fog', and it can I'oi;' in l*ug(>t's Sound ; and a I'oi;' between Victoria and Vaucouyer onti)erils peril, I'or there ar(; scores and scores oi' r)cky ishinds with sinuous straits between. The captain of the; Ani/ihioii, the finest man-of-Avar on the coast, had tlu^ temerity to tell tin; Admiral that it was not safe* doing tin; ])assag'e in such Aveather. The Admiral is r(Ji)t)rte(l to liaye recoiyed the communication in silence, not luimixed Avith grim satisfaction. Further, th(5 Governor-General's time Avas of such importance that the ship Avas to proc(?ed at full speed. Once outside the harbour, tlie captahi, assuming the r(;sponsibility, rc^duced to half speed ; !■ Vl I 398 ON THE CARS A. WD OFF. foi'tiumtcly, for half-way throuii^h Pliimpor'H Pass tlu^ sliip ran on a rock, and IicoUmI and lilled so rai)i(lly that most i)eople fj^avo hor up for lost. TIio Government lIous(5 party pre])ared to me(?t their fate with the calm dii^nity of Eni,4isli aristocrats, hut hy consummate seamanship the captain contrived to hring his sinking ship to shore. On his arrival lie liad an amusing passage-at-arms with the press, to whom he, of course, refused to make any statement whatever. This did not prevent a full report of his views, among otliers accredited to him heing the opinion that, if the ship liad only heen going full speed at the time, it would have been had for tlie rock. This naturally led to explanations, indignant disclaimers from the captain, and hoasts from the rejiorter " that for the future naval officers Avould know what they had to expect if they did not alloAv themselves to be interviewed. If you can't get truth," he added, " you must be effective at any price." When Victoria heard that the Amphion was coming in, sinking, there Avas a stampede for Esquimault ; I took a photograi^h of her just as she was entering the dock with her collision mats out. At night the fog came on again ; the Vancouver boat started out at midnight, but the passengers were allowed to go on board any time after eight so as to sup and get to bed comfortably. Just before eight a messenger from the office came up to Cousin Jacky's to say that the boat would not go at all that night, so we went to bed contentedly, only to be ■.ict:^^*-r5"'Bet^ VICTOUTA : Tlfl-: CITY <>F lf(iMi:s. 899 awakened at two or thr(M» o'clock in tlic moniini' l)v another rnesscMiL^er From tlie steaiul)()at's ollice to sav that slie woiihl i^o at I'our o'clock, 1)ecaiise if ,i(»(Mne(l to 1)(^ lil'tiiiijf — it. (lid not s(«eni to he li^till^' in tlie least to us ; the city was wrapped in a thick l)l!inket, so we Avent to hold a consultation witii some other would-he passenj^ers hy the hoat, wiio were stayinu; a few doors lower down our street. Xohodv had thouijflit of them, so they would have heen lel't hehiiul hut for our consultation. AVe wer(» not a very cheerful crowd who assimihled on the deck, one of the party, a famous war correspondent, havini^ already essayed this passaj^e in the Amphlon. The fos? seemed so danjjjerous that hardlv anv one went to hed, most people pref(n'ring' to shiver ahout the deck and pierce the fog with eager gaze, as if that would help the captaiu. And the; worst of it was that at dawn the mist cleared right away, and we entered Vancouver on the smiling autumn morning, not to he helicved when we dAvelt on the horrors of the night. The passage hetAveen Vancouver and Victoria is exquisitely heautiful ; the scenery is the scenery of the famous Thousand Islands of the St. LaAvrence, hut with nohle forests instead of straggling Avoods, and Avith a background of lofty mountains sev(n*al thousand fe''t high. The steamer dodges in and out among the i;< lands, through heautifully clear Avater, often passing I'ndisturhed SAA^xrms of Avild foAvl. On our Avay to Victoria Ave had the present Commander- in-Chief of the Mediterranean sqiuidron, Sir ]Micha(vl ?*t i • . -100 O.V 77//; CARS AM) OFF. 1 Ji !,i M 1\ t Culmo-Soymour, for a folloAV-passoni^or, with thirtoon ii()l)l(' vains' lioads of the great Rocky Mountain sIkh'p, which are the sj)ortsman's most coveted tropliies. The mountain i^oat and the i^-rizzly hear are n()thini>" to them, and wood-huff aloes are outside the rang'e of practical sport. Sir ^Michael, Avho was only in Britisli Columhia for a holiday, had l)een Admiral on tlie racitic Station, and was killing tliree hirds witli one stone — visiting liis late command, seeing the races, and paying a compliment to tlie Gov(n*nor-General. He very nearly stopped us going to Japan. Overhearing us talking ahout it, as we passed the ship Ave were going in, he remarked, " You must he fond of rough Aveather," a remark ^v^) often tlioaght of aft(;rwards, t'or we AV(n'(» never al)le to walk on deck from the time we passed Cape Flattcn-y till Ave Averc,' in sight of Japan, a fourteen- dav matter in those times. Off Elatterv Ave fell into tlie Avickedest sea 1 was ever in. We rolled till we almost rolled over. It Avas Captain Cook, t]i(^ lather of .Vustralia, who gave it its name. Coming up in 177H from discovering the SandAvicli Islands, says a Avriter in Ifoasehold Words of 1859, " aft(M* a difficult nortlierly passage he reached tlu^ cape L'orming the southern point of land at the entrance to De Fuca Straits, Avhen an imi)rovement in the weather promised much l)etter speed. lie therc^fore called that point, AvJiich is to he rouiided \)\ so many adventurc^rs to Avhom ilojx' tells her tale, Cajx' Flattery." Tlie writer goes on to make a ! \ 1 thirtoon Mountain covotod r boar aro itsidc tlio was onlv L Admiral iree hirds jommand, nt to tlie )ppod us al)out it, •eniarkcvl, pmark av(; ever al)le ;sod Ca])e I'ourttHMi- r v,'o fell Ve ]"o11(hI lin Cook, its name. San dw id I of ISol), iclied tlu; d at the irovemeiit eed. II (^ rounded ■i liev tale, I make a o H U 05 W o o u (73 z < I f VICTORIA: TIfi: C/TV OF IfO.lfES. 401 pr()])li('cy which has Ixmmi I'liUiUiMl : '' It is only a stoj) i'l'oju t]i(* ishiiid to th(* inaiiilaiid of tliat wcstci'M slioro of JJritish America which was calhul Xcw Cahnlonia until within the last IVw w<;cks, hut wliich lEcr^Iajcsty has nownainod hritisli C()hnnl)ia. Two years a"'o tliere ilrst came ol)sciire tidiiiu's of i>'ohl I'oimd ill this re^'ioii. Xow all tlie worhl Irears of the i^'roat wealth of i^'old contained in it ; and even t'nmi California — wliere i;'arden(M's and i;ri)oins earn ,i)120 a year and tlieir keep ; wliere a competent sln^pherd earns £2 LO a year and liis keej) ; and where hrickhivers mav earn CIO a AV((?k- it is Cvilcnlated that, dnrim;' the lirst six: months of the fover for a change to the new Tom Tiddler's ^ronnd, not less than LO,(M)() |)eo])h' Avill have emii'-rated to Vancouver's Island and the mainhmd opj)osite. Great tliin<;'s are nov. anticipated. Vancouver's Island, in the North Pacific, is to hecome the seat of a nol)l(^ British cohniy, and ol' a naval arsenal complete in eveiw detail. If i'hii^laud pleases she mav l)Lii Id anioi iu; tl le many is land? m the sen, l)etw(H'n Vancouver's Isbmd and the mainland, a Cronstadt of the Pacilic, and lasten with a uui;iity padlock — if such security he needed -her possessions on the Avestern coast of North America, now rei>'arde(l as of inostimahle value." This is the picture which old Vancouver, to (juote the same writer, u'ave of the ishind v.iiich was to ' n 1) )ear liis name, an( I the little ishiiul across tiie strait j)rotectinii,' "one of the liiuvst harl)oiirs in the world 20 402 O.V TIfK CANS AXD OFF. " Our attention avus immediately callcMJ to a laiid- scaj)o almost as cncliantingly l)('autii'iil as tlic most cloi^antly finished i)loasiiro gronnds in Eiirojx'. 'I'lic summit of this ishmd ])i'('srnt(Hl nearly a horizontal surracc, intcrsjxn'scd with some in('([ualitioso1" i^'i-ouiid, which produced a hcautii'ul variety on an extensive lawn covered Avith luxuriant i>'i'ass, and diversilicd with an ahundance ol' llowers. To the north-A.cst- ward was a c()])])ice ol' ])ine ivovs and shvuhs of various sorts, that seemed as if it liad heen j)lai)t(Ml tor the sole ])ui'])ose of 2)rotecting" from the nortli- west Avinds this deli^'htful meadoAv, over Avhich Averc ])r(nniscuously scattered a fcAV clumps of trees, that Avould liaA'e ])uzzled a most ingenious desiij^ner of pleasure i^rounds to liaAC arran!J^(Hl more ag'reeahly. While AV(» stopped to contemj)late these s 'veral ])eauti(\s of nature, in a 2)ros])ect no less ])leasiiiii' than unex])ect(Ml, we c^athered some i;'oosel)erri(>s and roses in a state of considerahle I'orAvardness." Presently tlie ex})lorers ascertained that tin's island 2)i'<)tected " one ol' tlu' linest harhours in the Avorld," and that on the shores of the iKU'hour was an excellent stream of line Avater. Captain \'an- C(mA'er's enthusiasm i;rew as he j)roceeded. lie was sim])ly recording' his im])ressions ; tluM'e Avas no thoui^'ht in his own mind ol' the swarm ol" industrious Eng-lislunen that hereafter mii>ht settle in those ])lact\s. (Jn t!ie day foUowinj^', line Aveather and a s.ib;oth sea aii'ain enhanced the heautv of tlie scenei'v. \s lu' could not conceive that tiie land had been I VICTORIA : Tin: CITY OF HOMES. 4():i () a ImikI- thc most »])('. Tlic lori/.oiital )!" L>'i'()un(l, (»xt(Misiv(' livcrsilicd )i'tli-\.<'st- shvulis oT 11 ])lant(M! he iiorth- llicll AVJH'C trees, that L*sii;'ii{T of agTOcahly. se s.'veval s pleasiiiii' )Oso1)('rri('s vardness." that tills irs in the vl)oui' was tain N'aii- lle was e Avas no uliisti-ious ill those ler and a (> scenery, liad heen a( lonied l)y the hand of man, tlie eajjtain "could not had })()ssil)ly helieve tliat any muuiltivated conntry had x^ver l)een discov(n'od exhihitiiiii; so rich a picture." " A ])icture so ph'asini;'," he adds presently, " could not Tail to call to our reinenihrance certain deli^'litt'nl and heloved situations in old England." lie I'ound, in luxuriant g-rowth, strawlxM'ries, roses, sweethviar, ^'ooseherries, raspherries, and currants. They pursued their Avay, explorini!,' inlets, and discoverinij;' mor(? i)()rts. 01' man, th(\v saw trace in Iavo poles on a sandy s])it, ahout filteen {'(Hit hii^li, and rudely carved. On the to}) ol' each was stuck a human head, recently placed there. And now, reader, i»'ood-l)ve. I have led vou from end to end of the Great Dominion, from where the sunrise is hailed hv the most Avesterlv drum-heat of the J^ritish Army to where the sunset liiii^'ers on the hroad A\hite hanner of St. Geori^'e trailing- from half a dozen Queen's ships in the pine-i^'irt haven of Esqnimault. AVe started in the ii,'ol{len Cherson(;s(; of America, ]S'ova Scotia ; we part at the end of the i^'reat island which hears the name of Ca])taiii \ i- couver, who sailed these seas when everv Bi di nian-of-Avar down to tln^ tiniest frii^ate was a kinuht- errant, ridinj^ the waves in search of a foe to eak a lance with. To use Keats's line line, '• -Much liave u^e travelled in the nahns of gold," -throuL^'h fahled Acadia; throiiu'li the iirst Canada, the |)r()vince of Quebec, for ever romantic with the 404 O.V THE CARS AND OFF. (loods wroui^lit and tlio siifl'orint^s borno for thf^ White Flag, hy Cartioi* mid liis hhic-ovod Breton sailors, by tlu; nuns of St. Ursula and Villa Maria, ])y i^enorations of pictnrosquo soignours, culminatiui;' in the trai^cdy of A^^illo and Montcalm ; throuii,'li fair Ontario, with the Avorld's eni>, the great Dominion in the IJi'itisli h]m])ire, Avliich has made out of Can'lisli Buy, lookini;' across tlie Gulf of (Jeornria into the settini? sun, I felt that I r(villv had arrived at the end of the Empire upon which the sun never sets. Eut even in those days I steadfast Iv I'efused to helieve that this condition of thini^s could last — that the two principal dependencies of the ju'incipal seagoing^ jiower, facing each other on the shores of the same ocean, at a distance of onh^ three Aveeks' sail for a fourteen-knot steamer, should remain as unconnected on the face of the Avaters, as they were hy the telej^raph under the Avaters. The Deserted Ocean AA'ould he a hetter name foi' the Pacific than its oAvn. With the exception of a -{On AT Tin: SIGN OF Tin: s/f/r. 407 ENGLAND . THE FMl ri,^('r nicr- t, AvluMi 1 9, Canada I other as Vustralia's value her lieautiful e Gulf oi" really Jiad vliieh the teadfasth- ng's could 's oi' the 91' on tlie >nly three Id remain <, as tliev name lb]- tion of a belt in the centre and tlie Frozen Aleutians in the far north, it is no better olV Tor islands than the Atlantic, and once avay I'rom tlie mainland there is lia)-(lly a. shij) on its surface, (*xcei)t the monthly simai'- suj)porte(l steamers to Australia, the two lines ol" steamers running' monthly from San i^-ancisco to Ja])an and China, and the new lines from Yaiicoiivcr to China and .Vustralia. A day or two after leaving Yokohama for San l^'rancisco on the S.S. China we ])asse(l the S.S. Oceanic hound for Japan. Our ])urser said, " You'll hardly Ixdieve me, but that's the first time we have ev(n' 2)assed close to a shi]) away from land in all the ten years I've been on this ss from the United States, it admitted Tree in return 1'or the abolition ol' import duties on, say, Australiaji avooI or raw sui^'ar. And on tlie otlier liand, I knew that Canada s])ent annuallv al)out a million and a Jiall' sterlini'' on tliese two raAV commodities, every j)enny ol' Avhich mii^ht just as well he sjjent in .Vustralia; and this and the Co()(),00() spent on manul'actiircd tohacco, the X 1()(),()()() sjxMit on hides and skins, the £50,000 spent on iininanui'actured tin, and the lar^e amount spent on w ine and meat would all j^'o to Australia, it tarilV re- ci))r()cities Avere estahlish(>(l ; and on some items, such as nu'at, g'o in any case as soon as direct cojnmuni- cation was established. British Columbians were pay- inH' eii;ht])ence (n- ninei)enc(Ni jjound I'or mutton from Orei-on and AVashini»ton, while thev could buv much siijjerior mutton f'l'om -Vustralia at I'ourpence, ac- cordini^' to the calculations ol' e\])erts. Canada had 1(1 mould, ica; llml ij) article liosc (lavs » oiild have output — : stcaiuci's it Oi'cu'oii 'oiii;'li tlic I saw no I'it'iiltiii'al ' displace admitted liities on, ida sp(Mit on tliese ih mii^Jit tliis and iicco, tlie )0() spent, sj)ent 0)1 tarilV re- nts, sucli ommuni- \ ere ini}- ton t'nmi n\ miicli Mice, ac- lada had I s^. .^^s^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) &^ ^/ % A ^ 4^ ^iitf 1.0 I.I 11.25 mm azs 140 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MStO (716) •72-4S03 v ^v % <^ '^^- ^ i\ ^ M K<^ ^.<^ 4^ ^ 6^ P' m^ 1 1 1 ' f 1 .,1 f ! 410 o.v r/ii: r'j/i's axd off IK) mutton to speak of; and in British Coliiiiibia, at any rato, not ncarlv cnonn;!! Ixh'I'. There were, I liad licard, only a c()U])h' of million sheep in all Canada, which, in the Xorth-AVest, mii^ht j)artly l)e due to the hostility of the Indians, who loathe sheej), and main- tain that their horses will never l)rowse on binds where sheep have l)een, Canada, too, was Ijej^inniii!^ to use in lar^-e ([uantities certain commodities which she could onlv i»'et I'roni Australia, such as " o])ossum " and "native hear' I'urs, cheap Avarm coats heiui^' a scarcity since the extinct i(ni of the hulVah). At ])resent she was huyini;' these in the world's fur mart, Leij)sic ; hut it could not he douhted that as the consumption increased they wouhl he imported direct through N'ancouver. Ami \'ancouver would have to ini))ort vast ([uanti- ties of the imi)rei;nahle jarrah-Avood, i'or the teredo- iiaunted waters of l*ui«'et Sound and the innumerahle inh'ts to th<» north of it, to make the necessary wliarves aiul hri(li;('s, as settlement increased on this coastline, Avhich measures from JJ,()()() to l',0()() miles, thoui^'h it is contained in so few de^-rees of latitude. Accordingly, I saw a i^-ood many influential j)eoj)le, and Avrote much in the leadiiii;' Canadian ])aj)ers, j)ointini^' out the ohvious ojuMiiiii;' that existed for a Canada-Australian line of steamers, and for recii)r()city lu'tween the two «i^rou])s of colonies— helievini;' at the same time that nothin*^' would he • .17' THE sias OF Tin: siiir 411 so likely to luistcii tlic conriMlcnitioii ol" Australia as tlu' cstablisliinciit ol* relations with the Doniiiiioii of Canada, Avhicli would he so much easier to woi'k if tiuM'e were a central Australian authority instead ol* liair a dozen inde])endent colonies. A contiui'encv which then seenu'd verv likelv to follow the estahlishnient of direct steam communica- tion, and miij^'ht he very advantai^'eous to the con- i^ested Australian hanks now, was the openini;- up of minini^ and ranchini;' in the Canadian West hy Australian caj)ital and exj)erience. No one seenn'd to me so likely to ov' a ph'asant place lor the evenini^' of his life in this land of rivers and hikes and i^'reen mountains in- numerahlo, l)o the rii^ht man to introduce proper capital and the scientilic Australian methods of sheej)- farminiij into an unexi)loited country. West of Calvary, he could i^o on livini,^ the free colonial existence in which i)r()s[)erity con.stitutes aristocracy, and all the whih', unvexed hy extremes of heat or cold, he within a iVn'tnii^ht of London, and a week of New York — advantai'-es not to he sneezed at, when he had heen exiled nearly a lifetinie from hiri;e towns. I1-' '>\' /■///; r.i/.'N .i.\7) oil' I. I )\\ii to liavlni;('xiMT(<'(! lli.it llicOriciif Coiiipn iiv would supply \hv i/eii.s c.r i/i(h/il/i(i. I'ioiH'criiii;' sccnis w n.-itiiral for tlicm, and it would have 1 I'oi' llirin to liavc utilised on the new line tl )('('ii so easy le AT riii: sins OF Tin: >////• n; I ColMpilllV a u o 'II SO casv line the steamers •• srcoiidrd " in llic loiii;- and ('X|MMisi\<' H!;lit with the IV and ()., whicli lias made Aiistialia as \V(dl i)\\ lor steamers to Kni;'laii(l as aiiv I'oiinlrv on till' i;IoIk'. IJiit the rntcrprisc came I'rom a dilVerent (piarter Messrs. Ihiddart, Parker, vV- Co., who, l)e<;'inninii' witli eolliers, won a crommandini;' position in the Anst ralian coast inu,- trade and the trade hetween Australia and N<'\v Zealand. 'Thev put on the service not '• seconded " stivimers, hut mai^nilicent new vess(ds like the Warrinnx) and Miowcrii, modcds of modern hiariiie architect nre, and specially (h'si^ned Tor servici' in these waters ships \\{\i) I'eet loni;\ with a l^-l'oot heam, and l,r>(M) horse-power to drive theii' l{, KIO tonnau'i' (n<'t register) ships capahle ol" ^cMni;- theii* seventeen knots an hour, which actuallv maintain an averai;*' ol" I'onrteen I'or the whoh' voyai^e from \ ajicoiiver to Sydney. 'i'hey are lighted with unt the tropical i^lories ol' tin' Pacille islands, ol' the ilawaian and h'ijian i;rouj)s. The I'aeilic islands and their .Vi'cadian 414 <>\ rill-: r.i/i'N j.\7> orr. I '\ lit m i k lilV liavj' Im'cm iiiimital)lv (h'scribcd hv l*i<'nT lioti in t • " llarahu." Butcvci'v one docs not know that il" one lias business in Australia, one can take a return tick<'t available 1)V wav ol* the Canadian I'acilic Kaihvav ajul anv Atlantic steamer to Vancouver, and thence to Australia h\ lluddart, Parker, i^ Co.'s steamers; I'rom Australia to Jlonur Konu; hv one of the two ij;reat lines of tea steamers — the China ^Ferchaiits, and tile Eastern and Australian — and I'rcmi Jloni;' Konii; hack to N'ancouver hy one of the mau;ni- liccnt new Canadian I'acilic Jlaihvay steamers ; or, it' one feels more inclined to do so, j)roceed direct to Kniifland hy the Peninsuhir and Oriental, throui^h the Suez Canal; or hy the 8haw, Savill, and Albion (New Zealand steamers), round the Caj)e. A'ancouver is now, of course, a port of the lirst importance, for besides the coastiiii:; trade from San Francisco and Alaska, and the bij^ ])orts of Pui^et Sound, it has theses two i^n'at mail lines, the II ii(l(hirt- barker boats which ijro to Australia <'verv month, and the hui^(? Canadian Tacific Hallway boats which i^'o to China and Ja])an even oftener. 'JMiere are only a few ships, such as the Catiipanid and Liicanid, which excel the Emjtress of Jndia^ the JJinpress of Ckinn, and the Einpreas of Japan in size and sjx'ed. Tliev are each IS.") feet in lenii:th and ({,(>()() tons register. They were launched in the s|)rinL!' of 1^1)], and have alreadv made some remarkable records on AT rni: sias or riii: sii/r. 4tr» the 'rraiisimcilii' nuitc, l)i'iiii;iMi;' Vokolmniu witliin t \vii(' (lavs (>r liondoii, and loiii'tcMMi davs of • • • New York and IJostoii. Tlicv arc the onlv twin- sc'.row steamships on any Pacilic line, and tlicy liavr all iho modern iinjjrovcnicnls and latest appliances known to marine areliiteets, to insure s))ee(l. safety, and comfort. The hulls are of steel, with doid)le hottoms extcndini^ tlie full lenn'th of the vessel, and are divided into numerous watertii^ht compartments, renderinii; theui ))ractically unsinkahle. The ('UL-ines (10, 000 horse ])owass from the coJitinent, in which J^'reedom is sj)read- <'au'led, to (me of these ii;lorious shi])s Avith all the smartness and discipline of a man-of-war. /vmI the I'oval Navv lleserv(; ollicers stand out in all the stroni;'er contrast hy moving amouij; the deft, sil(»nt, white-rohed (Oriental servants. Here certainly the far West ends, and the far Kast, with its sedate and immemorial civilisation, hei'ins. ^Mr. ILud(hirt, who is cjuite a youni;- man, could not rest content with estahlishini*' a Canachi-Australian line, to which Cana(hi suhscrihes (:2r),000 a year, thoui;h Australia, which has as much interest in id (Ireat Britain do not suhscrihe its success, ai ii* 410 n\ nil: r \i,'s .1 \7» nrr. .•mvfliiiiii'. .MS r.ii' MS I Kiiou. SiiuT liotli llir pMcilic sicaiucrs and lliosc of tlir ('.inadiMii I'acilic Kailwav could iicnrrallv deliver (heir mails in sonit' da\ > less than tln\v do now. if flicv had last Atlantic steamers running in connection with them, he has determined to place <>n the Atlantic, hetwecn Canada and some Mniilish |>ort, steamers as line and fast as anv mailshiji allo.j. 'rhes«» will cost him Cl'.IK >(>.(>()( I, hnt he expects a snhsidv ol CloO, ()()(> a Near Irom the Canadian (iovernment; and as he will he ahle to deliver letters in New ^'ork ilseir several Inmrs (|niclxer than the fastest direct steamers to New Wwk can take them, owinn' l'» ^'x' shorter distance hv sea hetwecn l-lni-land anlaii(l. As Sir Joiiii MacDonald remarked Tl le more trad e IS (loin -.«£Sff!S?*f'^ .1 /• I III sii.\ nr iiii: siiir n r r.u'ilic Kail w. IN unc (l!iv> Atlantic I. lit' \\\\^ l)(>l WCCII ^ as liiM' uill cost l>si(lv ul • cniintMil ; S'cvv York est (linH'l III;* to tlw 1(1 Canada. Is, as well steamers •••• twenty nil «'\ (M'V n Canada ji'txlncts, caps and ul within is a I'act ( !)(' lost, ore indis- iilev tarilV t for raw ciistonuM" Sir John (« is done with (Jreat Uritain. the more indcitriidcnl Canada w ill he ul' th' (nited Slate 'I'll •hill (Ml hre trade alone may sprini;' up to ninanlie dinicnsions on last di reel Annlo-Cai.adian strainers, as Ihr jro/cii New Zealand mntton trade has on the New Zealand lines. Some idea ol' the possihie extension (d" ('omnnree when the last Canada-\t lant ie steamers are riinnini; may he formed Inmi the single item ol" tea. I'roin liiverpo(d to lioni;' Konu", '•/'/ <^)nehee and \aneoii\er, is II,. MS miles; I'rom Liverpool to iioiiu' Koiii;, r/«/ New \'orl\ and San I'raneiseo, is 12,7">'» li'O.'i miles in liiNonr ol' northern r*mte; Irom Liverp(M)l to Vol koliama, rix (.>uel lee aiK I \ uieon\er, is 1),1)|(J miles; v'n'i New ^ ork and San I'raneiseu. ll,!,')! miles 1 ,2()r» miles in lavonrol' the norlhei'n ronte. Now, in the tea trade, in llu' sale ol' the lii'st new leas, a start miles nearer than Portland, ()i-e., which has no Transpacilic steamers, ami as she is nearer to IJoston hv 27o miles than San P'rancisco is not to mention the ol(> njiles she saves hy sea the "atiiral channel Tor the lirst teas to reach New N ork and lioston. and the jilaces supplied thi-onnh them, is also the N'ancouver ronte. lOven in iss}). \\hen only the 27 IIS n.\ iili: r.\/,'S .|.\7> III'/'. old stcanicrs wcim' niniiini;: to .lapan mimI Cliiiiii. ITKiMMKOOO jMumds wcrr coiivcvrd t(» lln' I'liitrd Sliitcs l>v lliis I'oiitr. and (»,(M>().(MM) puiinds to otiirr destinations. When slo>vrr-iuo\ ijii;- (Ji^-at Itritain awakes, as the liiited States lias he^un to, tiiis trade will assnine u,ii»:antie propoi't ions. Mails will he delivered reL;:iilarlv. as tliev are oceasionallv now. to \ anconver in 10 davs. and Vokoliania in 21, and Svnr •ts nioi't' |ii fai)ital ales less IJW n\ I in: < Alls AM) n/'t'. .% |jr» . hi(li(*roiisl\ (lis|ii'o|iurt iuiM'd, to prevent ('.'iiinda Immml* ovrrsliiulowcd l»v tiir I'liitrd Stjilcs. And I his lact (HILjIiI In draw a liravv sid)sid\ Iroin the Itrilish (iovrriiniciil, in addition to the CiriU.tMMi |mm- annnin wliicli till' Canadian (invcrnnicnt contcniplatrs paxinu". Tlic service will cnst at least Cl'(IO,(MM> per annnni to maintain. It ninst not he rori^-otten tliat, with the present Canada-Australian ser\ ice, Svdnev will he reached in thirty -one davs, as s(»on as Mr. Iliiddart's Canada-. \tlantic ships are runninu' ; and that, with similar ships to rnn on the .\iistralian service, this could he sh(»rtened hv iH«ai'lv a week. In other words, from lln^land to .Vustralia hv IJritish soil and Hritish ships in three weeks and a hall'. .Mr. Ihiddart, who is still a vonni;- man. and looks e\ en vonnu'er with his lair hair and I'l't'sh ccdonr. and the cleai'n<'ss of his hine <'ves. was interxiewcd a Tew months ai;'o. The interviewer as ked •• Do \(>n lind the Pacific line inci'eases trade hetween Canada and Australia:" •• I mmenselv." '• .Vshoth count ries chiellv deal in natural products, I should not have thought there was much scope I interchanii'e." •• Well, first ()r all. vou must not lose s'Mj;h\ of the Oi re\ crsed seasons. \V1 len it IS summer with us, it is winter in Canada, and r/cc nr.si} ; so we send natural j)r(>ducts, as vou call them, to her when she is not .1 /• ////; >/'. \ nr riii: sinr. \i\ y:i'«»\\ ini;- lirr own; mihI ^\\r rctiiiiis llic c'oiii|(|iiiii*tit wlirn wr MIC nut uruw iim- oiiis. Tin* lirst sti'Mnici' tliiit wriit ti» \;ii (Hi\rr rnmi SvdncN cuiild \\\\\v iTiipi'd :i lmi;(' prulit \)\ lakiiii;' |iotaltM'N, if uc had only kiKtwn it. U'r didn't thm, Init ur do now. Tlirn the Canadians, like the A nirrican'-, air L^rcat IVuit raters. It is (jiiitc iiniisiial licrc to scr rcallN U'ood Irnit on tlir taldcs at tncii liii;li-i'lass and lii^li- jiriccd liotcls and restaurants. I n tlic States and in Canada it is Jie usual tiling* ; and, I can t(dl \oii, over tlii'i'e tliev witnldirt put up with the Irnit ,\oii u;et here, nor put it down eith«'r. Now Canada nets most ol' its Irnit Irom Calil'ornia ; hut it will soon lake more and more Irom Australia, which is a splendid Iriiit-i^row inu,- count rv, and soon will he a )hMi(lid wine count rv also Tl leii, von iniist II t lori!;*'! that, in retnrn, there are certain niamiract nres with which Canada can sn|iplv .Vnstralia; so \oii can see tl,er<' is more scope lor e\chanL;e than von thonii'lit." Mr. Iluddart's conclndinu; words in thai inter\iew are woi-th (plot ini;- and laviiiL*; to lieait. I can think [Ml.Forbui ManiUiuiL.'^.^- luiii'^tall >^r-^Vv>: ^^ ^^^0. ,<-»* W..,>f.\» i^i-^Tc i-CtccS ^'■'>'^/^^'='X,>^' A"*-*- In;'' *" iLeaviug • nxley I'*'' v/^«*^rGra*»v Luke ipY PRESS HI Colu 'Cairo Benton aj„^^,, .. /^v -real Falls iK/*,,buii':Uivor n!^ " SaU'l Coulee ' Eaton J.a (rosi'-y^ ^Vft . ^ ^ • 'V^>^ii» -^il . ' /P^=^ v^"* ^>^?) j-^^-'^Vo '^<^'5^a ^•.♦' ■. ^9*^ 'AllK-n,T ,/r<'tiill'-lon r"*^0. " V I.aCi H,.ppr,cr "^^^J"' \ Norlli I'ovvdi r ^' McnuTieut l';iyvil.e V, k--~^ _o.Piuiiicf Cy ^, Cannon Cy. Wq\ n I 'v } Drowioy , ( Haiia->/ .^v*" \ ''-^ A (^ 'Mallviti- /.lit Wal 211^ 'eri i.JU Li Ion :^ )/; po.tJsiT'ns* y*? '■I ''^9'C ' '\ Thunder r.. '(f 4 K '\CO^''^' •^- J'(/ /.I^Al E O tl'uvcr l..^.r\ 1 if^jy.I'.iM \DcerL ^Cixt Lake .Red I.. V" V. { ^'\ ,#^ ;ii>sA' 'VrW^,-, «-s' <^' : n ..- ..." Elroy ^ Foriafe'ivCy , / V .Ja-0 I'*- i I IW o ft <7 I ;/-) N i^.-. i§ CO V ^^ UJ ^:^ 1- X 2 3 a -2 -1 DC £ Si o o 1 1 1 fc^ 1 t O UJ 1 1 &^ 1 ^ o 1 1 < z 1 a 2 1 1 <^ 1 1 ZDC 1 1 < 1 1 1 C3 I N 1) j^: X . Al.l)!)tt. .Mr. Ilan-y, ;'.li"., 'M\. Aldtotl, Sir .loliii. l'_'l : - smnuicr lioiiK.' at St. Anne's. \'*1. All.-. ?,-l\K Altiiihiini. Moiglit-* <»F, iiti. fil ; «tri<;iii of nanu'. i>ii : (,'nto tl'. 'M : Mart in. ^[aitri-. :i(i. Af^assi/, ;i."il. .\<,'ates at liVtton. 'M'Jt. AlliiiKiric, IF..M S.. Nl'Isoii om tliu, 4(t, 114, m;. Albert Canon, jdatforni on tlie, •J'.tJ. Alexis. St. Des Mont«i. tlie curt' siiifts the market day to Sunday. i;>ii. Allen. (J rant, a connection of I^a Salle and tile Longueil family, l."i4: liisCanadianhomeat Kini,'.ston. l.'»4. Americans, ditforeiii-e between Cana- dians and. ~'.'> ; the e.vtravayance of their holidays, 14H : what they like at Harrison, '.W)',>. Andier.it and Johnson at (^iiehec .Vi. . I iiiji/i/oii. tlie wreck of the, ilOT : inter- viewing the Cajitain of. .'j'.IS : ran on a rock at I'lumiier's I'as.s, ;!'.IS. Annapolis, the Windsor and Anna- polis Railway. 12 ; valley of. 14: Kentish scenery of. 14 : its ap- pciirance and associations. 14 : its old fort, 14 ; the oldest part of, 1 '» ; Le Ordre lion Temp.s. la; the original, 17 ; Indians at, 17. Apollo of the nursery maids, the. lii'itl. Aroostook, the valley of the, ',V2. Ashcroft, and the Cariboo stage, ;t21. Australia and Canada practically un- connected in IHH'.I, 40t>; nothing to |)revent commerce between ( anada and, 407 : consumption of com- modities produced by. in Caii' 'a, 4(lK : reciprocity ojtween Cai. ida and. Ill: ,i le>s plea-<.iiil country f > live in tliaii liritisli < 'oliiniliia, ill. .Vuxtralian furs u-ed in Ciuiada. IJU; federatioM. III. .\nstralians ininiense tea-drinkeis, .■!.'(."): opfiiini,'s in Canada fur. as sipiatters and niiuers. 111. .Vvalanchrs. -JSH. .\von. tlu' nver. 7. Maedckir. the ('anadiaii. I'lip. iJaker. .Mount, ;;.")1. ;ii;;!. iiakev I'aslia's luphi'vv, :]:<'i. :j;j". Manir. Springs (C. I*. U '; ll)tel. -Jiii.'. •Jf,.-!. •_'(i4, •J7;; : l!ie '• benches " at. ■Ji'i'J ; the Higlier Spi'ing. I'liri : tile .Middle Spring, lirpil : Covern- ment Maths. •Jl'ii; : Ponce do Leon, •-'lie. : the Naiad's Dell, -JCr. : the Masin. •JCitl ; the (.'ave. •Jilil ; fos- silising spring iit, *J(i7 : Lake .Minnewonka. 'JtiS : Vermilion liakes. 2riS. •_'70 : CaNca : the doi-tor v.n 4:j-' /.\/>/;,v. it nt, Ills I'lierK.v ami caiuicity, 'Jtl.'t : till' How iJiviT sltamcr. '-'Tt! ; Itiamlnirs iv\|n riiiuiital rami, 'j:> I . lUar Cntk Valliy, •.'H,'(. Hears foiiil of lia'tliiii),'. 'JIM, 'J'.i'.i ; at tlif (ilacicr House, 'JlCi : liow to kill a (Jriz/.ly. •_".».'(; sliyol' American tourists, •_".'!; : nil vef»etai'iaiis, I'lti; : perfoi'miiij,' at tlie (ilaeici' Mouse. •_'".•<;. ".".tH : tlu! I'vreuean iierforMiiuL; bear, l".'7 : a man killer. 'J'.i"^ : eu till' teleurapli pole, .101) : CiiiManuin bears, ilu.*). Il'tiitr. 'I'lie, the fil>t steamer on the I'aeifie, .'It'll, .'IT.'). .'Is I : lauiiehinLt the, ;iS."» : lu'r armament, ;'i.'^.">. r>eav«'r Valley, I's,".. Mej,'liie Mouiit. itHi. Itt'^rK. MayiMis. in cliar},'e of the IMaekfeet reserve at (Sleielien, 'Jiil Ik'll I'arm. the yre.it. '2'>7. ilierstadt. Albert. I'Tn, ;!;17. Mif,' Camp Islaml. traees of human occupation, 1(17 : pitchinj,' our camp on. I(i7. IJii,' Sea Water, (litclie (iuniee. Is;!. L'O.S. IJi^ot. the Inteiiilant, .'.'.i Hirchbark, I'.liss ( 'arm;iu"s. :;(». ISirchbark. erossii g tiie lake in a crazy, liltl. IJishop's son. the. Ills : Imw he tlresscd, ill'.i : a man of resource. ;i-J(i. iJIasson. Mr., how he made his for- tune. "-'.111. liliss, Jonathan. :>l . l»oat, (hunger of ,L,^i)inL,' in ii. with a <,'oo(l sailor, '.W>'i. Hon Temjis. Ordre de, l."i. Houncini.', JiMi; i,c>rd Derby. lOS. liow. The Valley of, •_'('.•_', i>(i:{. i'.tlil : l?iver, 'Jd.'l. "JTii : JJiver steamers. L'7(l. IJrandon lOxperimental I'arm. I'.M. Hreakneck Stej s. at (ijuebei . 41. Uritish Cohimbia. the j^anlen of. '.''I'-'i. Brockville people mimerons in Hritish Cohnnbia, .'!'.•.'). Huckboards. I.'iil : accident in the thiMiderstorm. I.'IT. liufTalo skins, ','s ; trails, -dot^. lurranl Inlet, .'ttlM. abuun. numerous in <,>uebei-, .'>'.). 'a boose, ,'1"_'( I. 'aiis, all c.deehes oi- waj,'i;oiiettc.i in (Quebec, iV.l. 'aleches, like jinrikslias. .'I'.i. 'ali,'arv. l'.'m ; and the < 'liinook wind>. •_'(ll." 'alifornia. waives in. in is.V.t, iDj. '.luada. life in river stei.niers, •_'.! ; hospitality of editors in, 'Jtl; lilies. ■J'.l : summer climate .: the Peasant's Paradise, -J.'lll : what Australians ay about settlii:!,' in, •_'."'•; contains more Icelanders than Iceland. .'iVl : ranchinj,' in. the perils of. ,1_'(1 ; meaning of the word, 4*1 1 ; a Canadian anthem. In,"i : I III jii rill III III iiii/irrii). 404 : Victoria the most homely city of. .'Is-f : .Mr. Iluddart on tiie fntnre of, l_'n : has one of the larj,'est meivantiie marines in the world. 41^1 ; and Australia jiractitMlly tin connected ill iSS'.). pid : the'^con sumption in. of connnodities pro- duced iiy Australia. H's ; hardly any sheep in, 4lii : Aii.str.ilian furs used iu. 41(1: .larrali wood for. 41(1 : reciprocity between, an- : country hotels. ;»;» ; Baedeker, 24(1: i.\iu:.\. rx\ ^u•^ )L'l' niKH" tlK'tti in IH. '1 Imiook winils. 1 ls.V.>, 101. stl'MlUTS, rs in, 'Jt> liltO nnt'<)in|Ui' ■2:\ >f, •iil)K I'anvdisi', J:!:'. : y iiltont st'ttliny It! Icrlimdiis r;iii(liin<,' in. the uaning <>f tla- tliiMn. Ill) 04 : iiin . J : liivinu oiir H iickt'i clipped. •°) : kodakinu' on tin-, '_''_')'i : Indians not to III' kiidaki'd. '_'*_'>< : Imlii always trv tu tiavt- fr. Ills tllr III vaiiflv in nanii's o piopic fralrrniv fii» ly, •_'•_",• ; tin- niiii will) travi'lli'd m pni-ki'tliaiul- kcn Inifs, •.'•.".I ; li o\v a tram is stations. •>:,' : tlic man at tlic wIu'cI inadi! up, "J In ; llir Cliini-sc mid tin- Sir .Villiam Van lluriu', HH ; ih Iri'll nil rol'lllist earn. '_'i> <,Mi»'cn's liiyli riiad tu tin- Ivisf, SH : ( 'iw-i. diniiij,', cu^i (if hhmIs ainj drinks hutrl at iSinlV. : »'< Nil. I. and II. t on. •_'•_'! ; fund mi. •_'•_' J : ■Mimitinu's rains, iilin : tcrmiiins al *\vitfli tn on. •_'_'! ; nli^irva- anctiiivt'i' llii- ll 10 ifovornmoiit at V.inniiiv.' Liiko Suptrior si'ctiiiii, I'.'l. tioii cars. "J'J.") : private ears. "JJi'i. MX; ciist of tlie Cartior. .lacijiies. I Id. 4(1}. C.i^llo M initain <':iiiadian muti' to tln' Ivist i"-'!! i miles ( ';i«itl(' id" Nai,'l olliee, ;l',t : the inscription of. Id : restauiant. Id ; Nelson and tlio li.irmaid. 4d : lo- inanoos founded mi hy. .Marmotto, Soiilard, Kirlty, 40. Carnival at .Montroal. I"".' : dilVoronoo < 'hinam.in. Kamloops, tho '^ravo of lietwooii Uoiiian and Canadian, 1 th I : phot oi'raii ri'.tO shops. ;!'.10 : hawkors. ll'.Mi: servant> on ranciies. ;i."»4 : liold lian"'•'. if lifo, '21'2 ; ilioioo of routes from 'roronto to Vanoonvor. 21 J : like lifo on hoard ship. "Jl.") ; a do- Cinnainmi iioars, iiO.V scription of s.vloon cars. '2\it : 1st Clcunlinoss not iie.M to irodlinoss in class oars. -]^t: colonists" cars, 21;"); smokintr room on a oar. 21.') : the oar tail. 21.") tl 10 ilual iiionaroliv, tl 10 I'onduotor and tl 10 noi'i'o portor. 2 III ; iioyro porter.- am slooper^ lit; an episode w •th l.v a lU'iiro, 2I'*< iioiiro portor. 21 (• : lioiiii,' put ti bod the, host the Arctic Circle. 27 ( 'lulls : the athletic clubs of MmttreaJ. 7.1 : St. (ieort'os Siiow-dinoin^ Club and club-house. 100. lOti : Trapiiouis" Club. 1 10 : Royal Soot-' Club, III : HollvSiiowshoors'Club, Knioralds" Club, 111 : tho loppinir mi 11 I'nion Cliiii. \ioloria, ;!".t2 : Metro 221 : Amoiioan ohildreii the politaii Club. .Montreal, custouiors 222 : stations every .James's Club, Montreal, 7 2s 4»4 /\/u:.\. r •: #'TOI only niic kind ('.I'lr. -m:.. Ccitil tniiii'N lit' Diiiiiiinn'. .'.'I'.i. Coaot liii|iiiii<<. :it I : ti Cutliolii' i'iiin|i nnftiiiK of. ;;|M : atnl their fliar.u- tcriwtirH, ;>|H: linth Ncxfs (|l't'>«s iiiiicli alike. Ill'.i : tlii'ir liniisi-s. .'il'.): tlii'ir |ia|)ii(is( M rari'ii'il in u\hhh lia^'<, it.'iO : |ia|ioiiHtN like Delhi Itnlihias, ;!.■)! I. Coasiiiiu. '.17. Cnllaf. a l.oile.l. .IJT. < 'oliiiiial e\|iel'ieliee, woith haviiii,'. J.l !. Colniiisls' ( 'iiiH nil the Col II II I Ilia liakes, :;:> t : town of Wiiider- ilU'ie at. ;i;il : iianovv ej^iape of Clmrles. ;'>:M the trip a deliuhlfnl one. ;U'J. ( 'oliiinhia Kiver. het ween tiie KnckieH anil the S,.|kiiks. •_'{!;! :;|(i, :i;(0 : JtH sceiieiT. iliiH; its yaiiie, ;{.'!((; laiiiliiij,' stai^es on. .'> i"J ; a settler's sliaek. 'Mi'2 : II new wa.v of (hliveiini,' a tult'UM'ani. ."1.12 : stii|i|iing a mail steamer for a kiss, /(ii.! : seeiiery of. .'i.'i.'i : slee|iiii;{ aceoininoilation 011 the mail steamer, ;i;!l> : passeii^'ers on the mail s.i'amei-. '.VJi'.K .'l.'Si : the Captain. iCJ'.': the chief nllieer. .!•_", I : the erew of. .'.■.",•. Ciiliimliia, Ilritish. formerly calleil New Cali'ilonia. KM : a pleasanter |)l:ire til live in than .Vnstialia. Ml. Coliimhiis, l.')!i: inllicts an eelip.se on the Imliaiis, :i4M. Comte lie I'aiis at Montreal. K\ : visits the N'illa .Maiia, S(» : at Notre Dame. «•_'. s;! : hke Saul, the son of Kish. 81 : reception of Pontifical /oii:ives. sf): liaiii|iietin tliu Wimlsor Motel, HC. S7 : his speech. Si',. S7. Con»taiitiiiople of the West, Van- couver, the. ;iiiii. Corpse, hotel kept by il. MX. Cote St. Antniiie, Montreal. Ill."i. (.'oiircelles.tiovernorof .Montreal. TJS. ( 'ow-cateher. a trip on tlieen;^ine.'J'.'t». ( 'rai<,'ellacliie. last spike of the C.I'.H. driven at. ;il(». Creameries, (Jovernment, 2.VJ. ( "ree Indians, the. li.V.t. Crosse iind Hlackwell's genuine silk handkerchiefs. .'!!.'). Curiin<' in Montreal. 7">. ( iisiir, Ciiieial. Jill. Cypress Hills, the. _•.<'.•. I>aly, 11:1. Daiiveisiire. a founder of .Mnntreiil, 7."). Diivison. Ale.Miiider. a friend of Nelson. III. Dawson, srieiitilic explanation of tin* liai'hine l{a|iiils liy, \:',J. De .Mai>iinneiiM'. 7.'t : sent to found the city of .Moiifii al. 7.') : his speech to the -. I.'is ; winner of the ( zai's pi i/.e lor thu liest cavalry manual. l'<>*. Ih' Ilame/iiy, Sire, mii render* <,>uelii c. ri.'i ; his {e. ;'>'.ts : opening' the 'riii|Ue iJleiie Slide at .Montreal. I(i7: and lionl Dnlfeiiii, 'J.'i.'i: lieiin,' lioiineed at .MoiitrealCarniv.il. lus: at Winnipeg;, "-'"(.'i. De .Salaherry at Cliateaiiijnay. 1 1'.(. Deserted ()ce:ili, the -the I'acillc. }(l(5. Devils Lake, the. '2i\\. -Jl'.t. •■ Di'ii I'rote'm' la France par le Hoi," H7 Diiiiii!,' Cars, meals on, like meals at sea. ■_'■_'■_'. •_'24 : cost of nieiils and drinks on, '22i ; food on, 221 : sometimes switched off too soon. •.'•J4. Dollars, Kt.dtid. from nothiii},' in less than ten years, •J.iii : .1,1 (»». from nothing in a year .ind a half, 'J.'>.'i. Dominion Sipiare, x\h Donald, correct your watch at, 'JHiJ : we stay in a log hut. '2x.\ : the < '(ihiiiihlii at. •JM4 : sceiu-ry like the Hliie Mountains of Australia. •_'H4, :'.;•. I. Donald. Mount Sir. .'HiS. Douglas I'irs. ;>7.'i. Dtichesiiays, the. I I'.K Duck shooting from aCiiinookcunoe, ■ H 7. Diifferiii. Lord, his great jiopiilarity in Caii.ida, 4;") : freipieiit mention of, in ( 'anada. 4."i, ti'.i. 2.'».">. i X- /.\7>/;.v. Ill' MnlltD'ill. ;i I'litlltl i>f ll\atii>M of till' .(•tit tn t'lillinl T.'i : liis>|«i'fh Jili'licr, 7.'». re 'I'livlor. l.'»H: ,(.yiilUl-. ir»< : pii/.e I'l'i' tlic l•nll^l••*^^lt•l»<•••. I ill Mmitri'iil. liirty wiiiknl, ; opiiiiiij; till' . iit Mniitrt'iil, liii, •_'.■..■>: l»iii'4 I Caiiiiviil. H'S: ■aiiyiiav. 1 1'.'. til,. I'aiitic. UK".. iici' liar li- U«>i,'" 1. liUi' imals at of nifals ami fiioil on, --4 : olV too soon, Inotliinj,' in less 1:'. : ;i,t nil, from „1 a lialf, •-';■'■■•■ watch iit, -2^''' ■ llmt. -is:; : the lit'iury like the Australia. •J>^4. IchiiiookcancH', kat poitnlarity JiHU'iit mentitm 1,1. •-';■)."'■ 4»ft Diiir.riii T.rra.'.', II, I.'., IT, ix. hiiMilas Crt't'k, u'ooij li..hitii; ut, I Hi;, l>uiiiiioi'i>, the coal iiiiiK'H of, 'J,'i'.i. Kii;!!' I'liss, till'. ;;in. liiliiilMiri^h, .Moiitii'iil t'oiii|i)ireil willi. 71. Ivlilh. .Mount. -'77. •-•*;. I'.ilitoi's, liii>|)itality of <'anailiitii. '.'•;. I')iilllllllilsti>ll. ;'>'-'. I'.iiisii'ili'ln. .Mihiy of, a llohi-ii/ollurii foiiiiijatioii, •i.'i. Kli'vator at .Montrt'.il up the .Moun- tain. ',M) : at t^it'l.rr. up to Diitfci'iii T.-rrarc, II. Knuralil Lake I'sl. Eunu'ii'its. capital iciiuirod hy. 2'>',\ ; .^Ir. liCi,'>,'i''H iilciil. 'Ji')! ; work for their families. •_','» t. Kmiu'ralioii. hiasy fioiii I'liitcd States to .Maiiitoiia, J.'i:'.. Kiiuiiic driver, paid Intter than a jiidl^e, '.'i\ I ; a brave. '.'>\'.'>. Kiijilish Hay. ;17 '•. Eni^dish. the well-horn, natiirul plolleer^ 'If.. Ksi|iiiniaMlt, ililT ; a fiillilled prophecy ahout. 401 : ro.id from Victoria to. ;'.'.m;. Kvaiif,'i'liiie, the well of. lO: Piirkman on. 7. False Creek. :ii;(i, .$71. :{7.'». Fer<,'Ussoii. 1 111. Field, at iiii,dit. .'Si : a working camp, •JSl : the four j^'reat eii^'ines. 2Sl ; j,'lorioiis scenery after, jsl ; natural arch near. 'JHd. Fires, forest, 'S.V.\. Fireweed. ;>:>. Firs. l)()ii<,da.s. ;'>7i'*. Flatterv Cape, named by Captain Cook. 400; storm olf. 4. Forrester. Colonel Tice, at Sicamous. ;i 1 2. ;JI ;> : his system of temperance. Fraser, the river. L'O;') : its enormous depth and velocity'. ;!45 ; scenery of. X>1. Fiedericktoii. liui!iliiii»Hof. _'.■»; Ilowum of. '-'I'l. 'J7; niileltelNof Seotlaiid ill. '27 : till' Indian viilitue at. °_'S : dead chief Iviin,' in wtate at. JH ; willow for dead ehief, 'JH ; il ,ir il. Ii/h at, '-'7 : loiii; woiidi II III i(h.,»e at. :io. French Canadians, loyalty of. 117: piocreativeiioHi.f, I '.i; ; ijardeiiHof ^ i;;t;. I'lonteiiac and tin- (lnai West. 70; Kiiii;stoii the annent, |.'i:'>: Motel III (jhieltec, II. C.iiiy, I'l.it, J It".. (ia^perl■lll. Niilliy of. |;t; sciiHiy similar to Kent ;ind Siissiv. I'l. (iaiitier, the French Canadian IimIm tiint, l:'>7. (ieiiiyiii. Strait i.f. ;i7.'>. (■ili>i.n. Kinu', his Innii.er raft>*. -'.I. (iitche tJimiee, the Hi;; .Sia Water. is;;. -Jii.s. Cjacc, .Mer de. ;iii;i. (1 lacier Mouse, the, l",i| : yri/.zly hears tame ,'ind wild at. 'J'.i.'. ; tame hiai'k hear at. •_".iil ; tiie i'Xipii>ite walk lip to the (ilacier from. :>00 : nioraiiii < at. ilit'i : liner than IJaiilV ;'.o7 ; deli^ditfiil for a joiij^ stay, ;!M. Cohl llaii-,'e, the. .ilO. (iold rush to Vancmvers Island, 401. (iohlen City, our anticipations of, ;i"J4 : the real. ;i"J4 : wooden smelter at, :'."_'4 : a hriyaiid's tiihle d'liete. i'.'Jd : a tii,dit sipiee/.e in a l.uck- hoard. iiJ.'i : our ().\foid friend at. ;!2i; : whv (tailed, 2S'_> ; first view of the Selkirks, I's-J ; fust strike the Coiiiml.ia at. -JK''. (iidden Cate. The. at San Francisco, m) /.\i>/:\. 'i^ ! (. (Jtil(li)ii. (it'iHi;il. liow lie Ik'i'iiiiu! cnimniiiKlcr ol' tlic 1]\ .'r-N'ictoiioiis army. .SI-J. CJovcriniU'iit Matlis at IJanlV, •-'ill!. (JiaiiMiy nl' (lie caitli, Canada tlii', •1(11. ■ (iraml I'lv. to-ilay. '.' : tlic ruins of. !l : relics of. lu ; Mowers at, li» ; view from, I I. . .'iT. (irant. Sir .lames. •_';',•_*. (iranville. like Salem, ji'i : its1etiro : the Province IJuildiiiL,' at. '.) ; sci'uery round, 4. //f^//7i'.(' steanisliip. tlie, 1. IFamlvn, (ieolfrev, a ifood story alx.iit, •_'!»;!. Hampton, (ieneral, I IS. Harrison. ;!.")! ; tlie hotel. :'«.M : tlie sulphur swimming haths, .l.M : exquisite lake. at. .">.")I : si-enery like /uricli, ;),")| ; formei' inipoi't- ance of the lake as a tradi> routi'. 3."i2 : sport at, ;!iV_' : the river. ."liVJ : what Americans like at. ;>."i;! : " ^iinnin;57. Hector .Mount, and its jjlaciers, 2^1. Hermit. INIount. a roolles^s (iothio uunster. liS-l. .".(IS ; Hiawatha, the (Jitche (Juuue of 18;!, 1>(IS. Hierou[lyphics at Nepiiion, "JdS. '_'. fee Palace at .Montreal Carnival, '.in. U;e yachtiu!,'. W. niccilliwael , silver in the vallev. •J'.i'J. Illinois, founded by La Salle. 1"J7. Intleju'udence, the War of, I'l. Indian tfravi'vards. ;'(4I: villai,'e at l-'redericktoii. "JS ; the dead chief. L'S. Indians at Amuipolis, 17 : the Huron villa<,'c at Lori'tte. (il. (iJ : always expi'ct to travel free. "JliS : char.acter of, '2'.\\^ : their discrimination he- twi'en Canailiaiis and Americans. •_'.'.;•: Indians, the Ojihways. 2|(l: the chief who killed Custer in Canada. lM(>: ISaltiniore Fishery Comjiany driven away hy, _'4i) : Canadian lu'ad chief ol' sidj-tribes in I'liited States, ■_' 1 1 ; demonstrate against Americans. :.'41 ; dangers from, at Karl's Comt. ■_'!•_': a jiii i/r si(i-/i:. ■_'4'J : j\lr. Leirge on. "J-i'J ; I''atlier Lacoinhe on. '2\'.'i : im- morality of the scjnaws. '2i''< : on small schoolmasters aiul small schoolrooms. '2\'.'> : .Mr. Legge on progress among. 241 : neutral towards Christianity. 244 ; the Cree, 2r)',l ; the I'.lackfeet reserve I ' wl /.\7>/;.v. lails ill tiiiii' of iiportaiici! to our I 111 ; < 'aMiidiaii ! ; fhicf's and di'voiitiioss a! Caniival. '."». ill tlic! vallry. I.a Sallf. 1-J7. 'arof, I'l. :'>4 1 : villaifo at the ast||.,,,,tl.,ydrysalin..n.;|, . I'"'"- hostility ,osh..e,,. ||„ ^■^''»n/rr steamship, „ i,;.].,,;,^ ,„ '•""•""^ ''■"■" Vietoria to Va eoiiver. ;;',I7. ' l-.ie !■:, ;i II ; :;;{7 ■"• '-'ii ,■,(; .'ohnson M,.. i,„„;,,^. ;„,„,e Ids for- tune. -J'.U}. .Juan de Tnca Straits. .iH" KaMiiiiisti(|iiia Falls, ■>:',<) Kaml„o,,.s, •;J7; the "room that, the dentist had been in, .ils : |,,K-., •'-I : t le Chinanians grave. :',-'\ ■ th(i v.-ilh.y of the 'I'hompson :V>\ '■ Its wonderful engineering works' ■;-' ' '■.'^■^■'' I'fMehes, IVJl : HI,,. ^ Australia, .l^l. Keewatin Falls, i';',',!. Kiekiiig-l.orse RivH-, -Js-J : ('anon. Kingfishers in Canada. ;W(; Knigston. the ancient Frontenae l;>->; La Salle, its governor. T" like an old world tow Uoyal -Military .Vcadem., ,;;..- a Hindred-gun ship built here IT/! M.yernnient Jiouse at. inhabited '•yf.iant Alleirs father. ir>4 ivirby, author of '• The (ioldeii Do.r •• 4fl. °' Klootehman. a female Coast [ndian • >44. Kodaked. Indians will not be ■'' Kodaking on the Cars. -Ji'i;. • >'■> ; its t". l-!.< ; from lii'iise Li'tween '•eenerv of, and ,.,,""^' '" tlie lakes. i;;,S:,|.„„. ''■'■"f>;'."t..unks. and martens. ," V ^''<"'tinu a loon, \ u, . ^..^■^,i '■;■'"••■','•■* ^ve had gone to shoot, ,"": ''•■"■s at water butt. Ill- steahnu maple siig.ii-. ■K-iakes. portages. near- hie' 141; Vegetation, '» , abundance of berri.s. fish ■•in- ehipmunk., I L' : iuunortalitv y^;.tnuekehild,vn, 11-dres oi "'f';''!'"^. \i-2: beef boots. ] f> • '-.11 fr<.glis|,ing. !!:>. i„tdli..,,:j ", .■■' ''■'■'^I\V town horse. I |;i • habitants dislike '41 : a colony o niilk snakes, i || : to the water. "f worms. Ill; \niericaii . , -■"■^•■s, in: our American '"■'^^I'l.onrs their spider tackle, ami pvsen-ed heavers. 141: the scene I Lest.'r the Loyalist,' I J.". • tl"' I'ren.'h but.her and his .r.-ev" .'L'(». niai-'. 11 '-la (;hiiie. ]():>. naiiK', l-JK 1 2\ "ligiii of :;,',■'•;;':. the C. I'. R. Hndge at •'•',: Hi'pi.ls. Dawson-s scientific explanation of. VA-j [^.•leo.ne. Fatlur.on iTed Imlians ^aggaii. delightful woo< : intended for a. Jesuit I- 1 : goes to Montreal n;(;i;, \->7 ■ charged Avith levity, 12.S : ,,..eimi lor le usngnmry from(^„,.ylus.Superi. "f ^t. Sulpicc. 1-J.S: terms of tl.. s*^t lenient ill La Salle's seigniory I-- : remains of Fort Heniy. Iiii'i fn.ds that the Missi.s.sippi does not nm into the Veriuilion Sea l.'.d- /:x. hc'^ii*-'. -Ml.; <^i' Ri'4. LcMoint', :'>\) : a letter describing Nelson at (^)uel)ec, 1 Ifi. Lrs/ir till l.iiii(i/i.':l. sei'iie laid at Lac Eau Clair. 14:). Levis, and its forts, 47 : from (Quebec to. 48 : view of. 4'.l. licvis. (Jerieral. nioiinnient to, 48. Li^litliall's address before tlie Society of Cliateaugiiay. U'.'. Linmiati, the. '2iV.\. Lion's (iate. tlie. at Vancouver, ;!(!"), Logan. M.P.. Mr., .'iT'.t. Longtin.C'aptain.atCiiateauguay.l !'.•. Loon, sliooting a. I4'i. Loop. the. 'JX'.K •-i'.M. Loret e, the Indian village at, (ll, i'd : cataract at. i'd. .".ol." Lorimer, Hay. 24.') : '• Jimmy. ' 24;"). Lonise Lake. 2722. :\[acDonald, Lady, 290. ]\IacDonald. 3Ionnt Lady, 2S2. ]\racl)onald. Mount, and Blount Hermit, formerly one. 2x0. ]\[acl)onald, !Mount Sir John, 2H4. ]\Ic(Jill College car at Montreal Carnival, III : buildings, 80. :Arc(ii:ity. 200. 201. 20."). r»Iackeuzie-'rilley, !Mount, .'ilO. Maitre Abraham ]\lartin. '.U\. -Manitoba, farming in. why jirofitable. 2.").") : little mixed farming in. 248 ; the winter of, exaggerated, 24s : spring, summer. an(l autumn lovely in, 24S : winter in, used for amuse- ment or trijis home, 24',t : harvest- ing in August and Septtiniier, 2r)0. ?-Iarathon. ('hateauguav a colonial, 118. :Marmette, 40. -Alarpole. Mr.. 2',t0. Maskinongc Forest, the, 1.".4 : IMaski- nonge or IMaskelunge, ;i (isli some- thing like a pike, l.')l Masscy's labour-saving maciiines, l.')(). 2;');t." Maugerville in the Wai' of Inde- pendence, 24. ]Meat, living on, alone, 27."). ^lediciiie Hat. the town of. 2.V,t: like Geelong on a hot-sviml day, 2(10 : and its griz/ly bear. 2()0. Mercier's attempt on XeKon's monu- ment. 1 \i'>. Methodist Hotel, the. 14S. ^lilk ranch, life on a. ;i.')ii : partners st)ld the milk themselves. .'1.")(i : medley in their liedroom>, ;>r)7 : a bar of an old-f;ishior.i(l waltz. •• lady likee lice," 'Afu. Milk snakes. 144. Minnewonka Lake, 2()8. ^lission. the, below Agassiz. .")ri4. ^lissionaries at Hanlf. 274. IMoberly, the oldest place in the ^lountains. 28.'!. ^loccassins. '.liJ. :Monvo Creek, the. \'X). ]Montcalm, 'M'l : dies in the I'isuline Convent, .'W : his skidl shown. .IS : chateau still standing. ladies in the (Jrande A IMonterey, 2(');). Montgomery at (^)uebec. died, .")8. ]\ronticello, city of. IS. ]Montmorenc,y r'alls, down the, '.'G. ^Montreal, how to get there from (^)uebec. 71 : like Fdinlnirgh. 71 : si)lendid wharves and warehouses, 71 : its athletic clubs. 7;! : nation- ality of its millionaires, 7."i : re- markable uses of the telephone at S : and the ee. .')7. ;i> how he toboggannig /.\7>/;.v. 4:v.( iiniiiiLf in. "-US : I iiiituiiiii lovely isL'd for aimisi'- . -24', I : hiirvi'st- lay a colonial, bo, i;'.4 : Maski- gr, a lisli sonio- '.1 u; machines, l."i(>, Wai' of Intlo- c. •_':.".. \vn of. •_'.V.t: like wind (lay, -'I'.H : I-. •_'(■.(». Xt'Non's monu- ', 14S. I. ;5,')i') : partners licnisdvis. ;^i.">('i : 0(1 room-, ■');")" ; a iishionod wait/, Wn. iC.S. ^assiz. 'M)i. •J74. place in tlie n llio Trsulino vnll >li()\vn. :is : in>i : and the e'^Ailoe, r>7. hfc. ;')<; : how he IS. : i'*"- the telephone at 7)) : the Now ^'ork of Canada. 74 : a delightfnl city. 74 : <)rit,'iii of name and its orii(inal name. 74 : Abhe Oiler, a founder of. 74 ; the foundiition of — told by Mr. Dawson. 7.') : JM. Dauversiere, a foundi'r of. 7;") : seminary of St. .Sul|)iee. 7;") : Hotel Dien. 7") : A'illa jNFaria, 7.") : the Fathers of St. Snljtice hny the island of, 7;') : l)e ^laisonneuve sent to found the city. 7."i : Do Maisonneuve and his speech to the (Jovernoi' of (^)iiel)ec. ~i) : the huge buildings of the Catholic Church, 7(» : the old buildings of the Fathers of St. Suliiice. 7<) : the seminary and its two ancient towers, 7li : the semi- nary atliliated to Lava! I'niversity, 7() : Villa Maria destroyed by tire. 7S : fino site and extensiveness of Villa .Maria. 7s : the old buildings of \'illa .Afaria. 7s. SO : the ladies' school at Villa !Maria. 7'.' : the city of churches, 7'.l: the church of Villa ]\Iaria, 7'.l : visit of the Comte de I'aris. 7',t : Villa .Mari:i. Royalist ill its sentiments, si/; St. Peter's Catholic Cathedral, Si) : the Angli- can Cathedral like Chichester Cathedral. Sil ; McCiill College l)Uildings. SI I : Hotel Uieu. Sj : Church of Notre Dame finest in the New World, SI ; Canadian Pacific Hallway Station, Sj : Windsor Hotel. SI : elevator and electric light In church of Notre Dame, S] : crowd at Notre Dame when the Comte do Paris attended High .AEass. SI : St. Jean Uaptiste Society. S,'! : magnificent service at Notre Dame, s^ : parish priest liroaching before the Comte de Paris, S.'i : anniversary of Chateau- guay, s:') : Comte de I'aris like Saul, the son of Kish. S4 : recep- tion of Pontifical Zouaves by the (!ointe de I'aiis, s,'i : tjic Windsor Hotel. Xi') : baiKiuet to the Comte de Paris in the Windsor Hotel. 8(1 : his specdi at the bainpiet. Hil : "Dion protege la France par le Roi."' S7 : speech of 'SI. Chaplean. S7 : corridor of the Wind-or Hotel. S7 : head olfices of the C.IM}.. SS; Dominion S(|iiare. s'.i ; N'ictoria S(|uare. IS'.i : the Victoria [(iraiid 'rninkj Hiidge. ".Ill: elevator on The .^^(lllntaill. "-'(I; chipiiiiinks in. '.HI : tob:)ggan slides, '.III. '.il ; ice palace. '.Ill : winter climate of, '.M ; winter dress of the men in. '.I I : ladies in, '.I'J : children in. '.14 : snowshoc^s and tobogganing (stmno. '.M : children play ill tlie snow of the roid, '.14 : sleighing. '.14 : tobogi;ariing. '.14. '.17: snowshoeing. 'M : foiir-in-liaiul sleighs cliil). m : s'li.irt sleighs at the meet of the foiir-iii-liand club, '.I.") : sleighing on tiu! moun- tain, '.I.') : view from the mountain. Hr. : the Park slide. '.i:.~'.i7 : the Tuipie IMeiie slide, '.t.'i -',i7 : '■'/"// , nil : Bonsecours .Market, 101 ; t!ie liiilil/iiiif-i. lol : in summer and winter. lO'J : in carnival time. Klli: a (i)uebec standard of i7()("> at. Ml!; collapse of first icejialace. iss'.i. In;-; ice palace, JOi! : carnival liviiigarcli to receive Lord Derliy, |ii4 : a ho •- key match on the ice. 104 : St. (Jeorge's club men from Winnipeg. 04 : a trotting dog. 104 : carnival entertainments. 104 : C(")to St. Antoine. lO.'i : carnival gatherings of St. (ieorge's siiowshoeing club at their club house on the mount- ains, jr.") : the St. (Jeorge's club louse. liii; snow-shoers leaping olf a voiandah. iml : Lord Derby opening tiie TiKiue IMeiie slide. |07 : i)oiiiiciiig Lord l)erl>y, lOS : Thi.stle Uiiik, los : a blizzard, lOS : snow ll'irrios. lOS : city roller lueded to make the snow I 4-10 /,\7>/;.\. \^ ^ sloii,'liiilili', Ids : l)()iiil)!ir(lint'iit of till' ice piiluoc. JOS : tlio Carnival Itroci'ssioiis, lO'.t : tlu> i.'ri"a( lp)li- slfi<,'ii, Id'.t : tiic 'ri'apiicni's' cluh, 11(1: iinval Srots'cliil). Ill: Holly snowsliof chill. Ill; M( dill Collcjfc tropliy. Ill : llincralds" club. Ill : " CO - education." Ml : Carnival coniparcil witli Roman Carnival. 112. .Moody, Port, ;!(!."). Moore. 'roMi. liis Canadian liomc at St. .\nnc"s. V.i).. I'i.") : "no lon!,'ei' livinir." !•_'} : liis garden. 12(1. !\loosf. cailinj,' a. with a decoy, JS-J. .Moosejaw. origin of the n;inic, "-'ils. Mountain Mill Street. <.)uel>cc, 41. Mountains, sonic ]ieoj)le depressed l.y. Mii'.i. Xa<(oya. castle of. '2~,K Narrows of Vancouver. ;!(')4. 'M'ii'>. '.'ui). ..TC. Nasliwaak, the, ."id. Nations, the live. li'S. Nelson, at (j)uel)ec in 1 7S"J. 11.'): tliinks of settlinj; in Canada, 11!5 : at (^)ni'l)rc in the AHiriiKiflr. 114 : returns from the Isle of Orleans to marry. 114 : in tlie A/ln iimrlr. eh.ised liy three French .ships of tlii' line, and a frigate, llii : licmoine's letter descrihing, 1 Itl. Nci.son ^leniorial, the, in ^Montreal, 1 1.) : should be in Victoria Scjuare. not .Faeques Carticr S(|nare. 117 : ^lercier's attempt on. 1 1;'. Nepigon Bay, episcopal church iit. 2(1.*) : the ^linister's dog team. 'JOo : the three Nei>igons. 2(l(') : tl e rip in, lid'.l : the storekeeper, a gieat reader, '2W : al)un;'). Nepigon Town, the inn at, ■-'<•() : hotel, the barman joins the guests, *Jd7 : ex(|nisite scenery of jjake Uideii. •_'ii7 : (lie proper sitnatio?i foi' tile town. 2!i7 : grand view from tlu^ railway bri<: I lie lishiiii;. -JOM ; JUS ; \\\<>'». Ihinaman wash- l-y. s])ii'its not the moniiti'tl ;^ori'espondent s I;')!'.' : nceessary burnt in the. lion Chersonese loast of. 2 : the ■k'). ())il>\vav Indians. -Jtn : on the war 'trai !."•_' II. Olior. (lie .Milir, one of tiie founders of .Montreal. 7 I. (Hympiaii .Moiint.iins, ."i'.i"_'. Ontario, the 1 nsy heart of the .\ford man who had tnrneil. :>"J('i. I'ackiiiir. what it me.ins. i'rJii : eost of. from Spillimieheiie to (liilden, Palliser. '^s-^. Panthers, on the Westminster Road, ;i7-_' Panidise. Canada, the Pe.-isant's. ■2:',:\. Parker. Sei' Unddart, Parker \- Co. J'arkin. (J. P.. .'.l. Paikman. on Mvangcline. 7. i'airamatta, the St. .John Kiver like the. 24. Parr-town. 21. /'SS. Peninsnla. good fishing at ^lonro river. IS4 : Hotel right on the Lake. I.s4 ; the town of, 1S4 : the hotel well kept at. 1S4: no boats at. IS.") : we go after two Indian sportsmen, ISfi : the trail of a bear, is.'i : good fishing in Dundas Crei'k, I St; : glorious scenery of Lake Superior at. ]S7 : first sight of two l)ig tish. ISK ; catching a monster brook trout. 1st) : the Avild fruit at. ll*;') : dacktish Pay within an easy day's visit from. \'X\ : has a iii'anlifiil beach, I'.t;; : ( 'onstruction days and reiujuns of a town at. 111 I : one can liiri' a sh.ick from Harry AVilson. the storekeeper, l',',"> : the de;iil town at, ]'.K> : climliing the hill on the Peninsula : Hathing in .Mud Lake, I '.Hi; .a s|ileudid |(lace for a summer holiday. I'.l7 : the hotel at. I'.'S ; the woniaii who smoked cigars. ]'.*x ■ old Canibridg(! man at the .store. Ill',) : owes much to Harry Wilson, r.l'.i : cnisiiK^ at the hott'l. dining with the ti i hands, 'Jiiii : ]\Ic(;in(yat.2(Mi .Inty's jiolite- ness at me.'ils. I'lij ; .Mc(iinty and the horse which only understood Finnish. 2iil : photo of the entire ]io|)iilatioii by .Mr. {•'oi'de, 202 : two ro.Kls at. 2(j;) : deserted ChiiiJiuian's house at. 2(11) : when I\ic(;inty dies. 'M:\. I'hililierl.'lhe merchant. 'MK V\kv. I.-, I. IMoneers, generally Fnglish. 247 : of iManitoba. LonI Selkirk's High- landers. 2 17. IMnmpers P.iss. ;!'.»,S. I'olice. .Mounted. Territory. 2li."i : PanlV, 274. Ponce de Leon. 2r)l'i. Port Arthur, a future se:iport, 4."i. 2i;i : routes between Toronto and '\irt Arthur. 212 : Port Arthur iind Prindisi, 2i;> : its future. 214. Port Coldwell. big lake boats at. ISfi. Port bloody, ilii."). "Possum furs. '.'S. Prairie, the. is the <.'reat fertile belt of Can;nla, 2.i7 : Ihilfalo hones on the, 2;is : not moiiot(»noiis, 2.")S : its lilull's, wodils and lakt!s, 2.)S : where it Winnipeg in North- West station of, at its huge farms. 2.')S legiiis. •>1", between and Prandon. 2.")i'i : towns. 2.")7 ; Sir William Van Home on the im- pressiveii»!ss of the, 2(il. I'renti<;e Miss, a (i>iiebec lady loved by Nelson. 1 ir». Press (iangs at (i)neliec, 1 li'i : Proviuce Hnildiiigs at Halifax, .">. Puget Sound, the IMeiliterranean of IIJ /A/'/ v. Aiin'iica, r«t>i llic rilirs i)i. :U',\ immense roMsl lincol, 110. I'lillmiin, Mr. I IT. I'vniu'MH [M'l ftirmiiiL: Iniir, '2'^7 . illllis It I \N'<>II'«< olilim'd lu liMiiv II I Ins men in Iwo i llM SIUII (,)m'lH'c, llic KiM'k <>t. I'ortilifiitioMs. .1.1 ; t'll;ilP_Ji's III i)iitil.' of, :;; : I P tliulii < I'lviii'li Cini'.i. ..:; MmitC'lIlM wIllMI III' U'llt lilt' llliTIII. .".I . Wiill'.'s ili'iilli at. ..I \v..ir.-'>* s|ii)ill li\ loss i>r t'alrs and iiiililarv. ;;s ; til,'. Cliicn D'Or. ;'.'•• ; nrt'ak neck steps, II V'irtoncs, II : Mnnnlain Hill Str.'.'t. II : IMa.'f DWn-u's, II ; < 'oliiinn, .I.) l{.'ini('/.;i\, .M i>. I'lnulaiiil. siirniiilrr u|' Me NNull'c'-- liiiily takiMi .1.1 ; liHiL' ii(iiiii| I'll! Our l.ailv of wluMT Montcalm ilicil, ill lilt' (iraiiili' .Mli'i laiii llf Diitr 111 . t'lin 'rcnai II. K'ai th in'/,av. .11 : rrsiiiiiit'i till- olil I'ollXt'llt III' • . .i7 ; liiinal of ( 'oiirtliousc 111. II ; Ki'i'iillrt Kriais, II : Cli.'ili'aii of St. Louis at. II ; .\nL,'lii'an ('atlii> iral at, II : l-'roiili'iiaf lloti'i, II ; Cliaiiiiilain's limial plai Kamp.'irts ol .Monti'alm in a slirli liolr, .iS . i-alts all rali'i'lirs or \va|,'t;oiu'tlrs, .I'.t lliiroii villau'i- 111' Ijoii'tti', 111 ill 'liit'l' s fosi llllll'. I'l Hun I : \)oii l.ani', II .•liii'l's Irish .son in law , I'l •III St. l.ouis (iati< IS : Lawn Ti 'II Ills ( 'lull, I' ( iarrison Cliili, 1.' (iraiii Allt I St. .loliii (iato. oliajti'l ami lit'voiitiirss uf Hnroiis, (i-J : Kails of Loifttf likf the StriiJ in Wliarfi'ilair, t'lJ : DiU'lusnay Manor lloiisi' (oni'i' lit'aili|iiartr!'s of .Monli'alin, aiiil lioiiif of tlir I'omiiii; ii|i lilt riviT lo, lo ; \ii'\v of siinsiM from l.fvis. II ; view from, II ; St. Louis victor of ('liati'aii'4iia\\t'i'_': •l;icc|ni's Street, II : Isle (if Orleans, t I, .'i(», Cavtier's tirst laniliii",' place, u'l : ('i.') ; the Laurent iiie.s. II. ."i(t, ".'."i : elevator or /'(/>./ ;/.sv n/-, II, 1(1, (IS Notre l>, line l>i \'ic landslip, IT : yimtire, IT of mail steamer, IS ; Levis am forts, IS ; rarlianuMit House, IT iaiiitt I it^ IS in m irkct .'It St. .lohii's (iate. I.S ; St, I- o\t Hoad, moiiiim eiit to Levi.sand Murray, IS; (iovernor's (iardon. and nionumeiit to Wolfe and .Mont iliii, l'.> : I'itai us capa bilit les asa fort!Vss, !',•; view from Citadel. W view of ^illoi'> , L 'Vis, t>(i ire, .")(', I'l." r.i : St. .\iine de Heaiij the Kei'p. ;"i(» : toad llax in tlu moat, ."itt >ew World Trov. .Ill bear and hisoii in Citadel, ."i(> love for, M ontcalm s Tap Hoiiije, .'il : Wolfi ,M : the lialtle of, .'il : disiiosition of his army, ."il ; Wolft tirst disposition ot' his fol•ce^ St, .loseph's, li.) ; the i'olyiiesii in tiock, li.i ; the Loiirdes of New France, li.'i : the sliiiiie of the yood St. .Viino, li.i : rusty tin roofs of the churches in the Province. I'lii : Montmori'iicy am! Charlevoix railway, we the tirst passt'iii.rers on, lili : Wolfe and Montcalm at Montmoreiicy, liT ; electric lii;ht works at the Moiitmoreiicy l''alls, tiT : l>r. (ieorLje Stew.irt, I'lS : Dr. (ieoi'Lie Stewart on the Mayor's speech, li'.' ; Dr. (ieorLTc Stewart on I'ylades, li'.t: liall in t he Citadel, I'll* : Citadel liy iiionnliiilit. and seaivlilii'lit. ;is rom.intic as the .Mii.imlir I. ii> Cieat West. 11.".. Kronteiiac and the ti : press L'aiiLjs at. .Viulierst and .Tohiisoii late, ."i"_' ; (hieenston Heifxhts, Canadi.in victorv Wolfe's despair, Wolfe's fin.il at, ir.:{. /\/>/\. I liiiiin I. :,:\ III (111' ;il:'nn. ..I Wnll'.'S ItliT I'l l)f ^ lio.lv (:il»<'li >ni' ilulllil I'lll .1. I.I III ■ >i roiiv til liiMi;il ot liol. iS . imIis "Olli'Mi' |,..r.'tt.'. CI uu'. I'l 1 l;i« . '•'- n lirnll ol.l •SS 111' llllKMlS. . llkf til*' Stii.l > , DiU'lu SIIMV ,. |ir;iil<|ii;irlt' liolllt il' th iiy\ti-:; .i;n'c|iu's |il|.^' lillK'c. I'l-' llnc • luiiKlr'tl 1.4 I'n'lil ; Molit- ;l I'lvss llisi.iii 'i's on, Monti-:ilin ;it t'Icctnr Inioii'iuy ti'\v:irt, li liuht I'liUs. S . Dr. tlif Mayors irtrc Stewart 11 ill llu'Cita.li'l, iiiliu'lit ami 1110: iiiiaii tic as tlu" iiit.'iiai- an«l llu' |iif>s izani^s at. aiiaiiiaii viiloiy (,)ii('ylii-i. Sii|iirinr i\\' tlii' Sriiiiiiary l{oiii,'c T'oil, •_' If. if SI Siilpiic, \-2f<. Kail l{o\v, lirotlicis. low,' wiillrii liy 'Toiii .Moore, al S". Ann I '.<.>. way cam 1 1, :\' (I'.l. I •-' I . Kaiiili, ('liiiu'^c scivaiits on, ,",.M : Ifoyal M ililary Ai'adciiiy al Kiii;,'ston llic iiiillx, al Seymour's ('leeK. I.'i.'!. '.u>\ ; life on a milk, il.iii ; |iarfiit'is sold the milk llieiiiselves, ."ifili. "Safe ('me." I Kaneliers. wailiiiij for lowii sites, 117. ^'i.i.'i : liow tile siiiarli'sl Mien idiii.'li ' Sai,^illai'ia. :'>(». |iro|irietor of a, it,;'i.>l; t,'o fora liolidav to N'ii'toria Saint. .Mi xis lo hiii' Kaii Clair, I.' iiicoiiver, .!• V ^<|iiiinaii ;;.-.i nava I li.'ill al, Sainle .\niie ile I II. .eanple, .'lit, ('i,"i Ji;.'!. Kat i'orlaf,'.', 'J.'!'.! ; Ilic Lake of llie Woods. -J I I ; the <,)lleeM's jjotrl and its menagerie, 'J I I ; rich Hold de- oriiiier al, 'Jl.i. posilsiil, •J!.".: May I Kafllesiiakes, .Medicine Hat, the only pl.acc in ('aiiatia where yon liml, l:.M ; \ery l''ieiieli. Sainl. .\iine's. I*.(,)., Ihe home of 'I'om .MooK , I'JI : old l^'icnch fort, at, rji ; Sir .lohii .\l.liott's snininer home al, l-'J: old mill, in .lesnil aicliives, !■_"_' : (he old '.rade fort. I .-J : - f.dl " folia;,'e at, I : its shops Ked llldi ins. Indian and inns, l°JI : Tom .Moore's honso mil I'ardeii at, TJ.'i, TJii. i{ed Kocks. the famous, at. Nepiijon. ' Saiiil. .lean i'aptisle Society, s-J '1 i.s. Street, in .Moiilre.'il, so. IfedSiickeiTreslle, close lo Peninsula, Saint .lolm, Ifiver, I'.l ; doiilile water II ;>. f.ili. ID, -Jll ; LCelieial view of, Jd Keuiment. the III Itli, .".,".. I;;i 'I'onr and < 'harnisay al, 'Jd Keuina, ''•">7 : he.idi|n,'irlers of tiie founded Iiy the lioyalists. l'! luoiiiiled police at, -TiS. (list shipping port, in ( '.•inada, "J'J l»eiu\', l'"or(, I •_'•_', 1'_'7 ; remains of, ojii'ii all the year round, '22 : tin I •_'".»: II l-achiiie, TJ'.). U'evel.xtoke. ;'.|ll. lake St. I oills and rreat lire of, in ISH'; lik ToripMy, its veenery. liver, like the I'arramatla, li I Kinsjf Held, the, occupied l»y .Moid horse treadmill feriy lioat. dm s arni\, (i.>. Riviere dii Loup, th S.iint Lawreiure, the, '.HI. Talis lit. Saint Louis (!ate. at <.)nel,ee, i: 1 1 : the colililer of. '.\ I : view of St. Lawrence from, 'M. Ifo'oerts, I'roft'ssor. .'(,(» : oii .Niagara, h;;;. IJocky .Mountains, HaiilV, the, made easy, 'Jd-'. '2i\:\ : first view of the. and Selkirk.s, :ap III ti e, 21 7 : troats. 2S{) IS : L^ke. I.'KI : P'ort. Kin. Saint Sul|)ice. (,)u(^ylus, the Superior of the Seiuinary. I'JS : tli(^ l''atliers of, hiiy the Island of Moiitri'al, 7;") : the ohl lmildiiij,'s of. 7i'> : the Seiuinary and its two ancient towers, 7l> ; adiiliatoil to the Laval V niversity,
  • j;ers, .Major, who discovered the Saloon ( 'ars. a description of, "J 1; r ass. I'Si) Salmon. Indians dr\iiiif. olii : llshin<'. Rou;ers I'ass, iowii of. '2SS ; dillicully ;'ill : runs in the Fraser many feet liiid nil iSd ; d iscoverv ol, _S(i stealiii!' siiLrjir, ■JSti ,ide aiiw Hoiiian Carnival compared witli the .Montreal Carnival. 1 1'J. Indians cure. .'14li : how they crowd, Koss, Mr., tile ciiampioii snowsiioer, illil : their iiveraj,'e weiIsi'l('y'.s liatiaii.x at. lUI. Scliool lioiisi'. liow to know a. "J'.'. S'.'lirt'ilii'r has hotels Imt no fisliin;,', Scott Act in Xova Scotia. 1 1. Sealinsi schooners. i'.SS : lV'laj,'ic, .'iss : the only j^rii'vance oF Victoria, .">H7. Seattle. ',U' : hriitality of the h)\ver classes at. 'M'J ; photoyraphinLT a \vorkin;^f man at. ;i7'.'. Selkii'k's. licrd. Highlanders. •_'47. St4kiik ^fonntains, tlie. made easy. ■JIM : gorges of the. 2X4 : great (llacier of tlie. 'Jm, .".OH: beanty of, ;i(»s : why finer th:iii the Rockies, ;;(t7 : Sir Donald. ;!(IS : Ross Peak, ;i(»s ; ('lieo|)s. .'ins : Mount Hermit, ;il'N : Blount 'I'upper. .'5()H. Servants, femali', have harder work in the Colonifs, '2,'ht. Settlers log hut. or shack, D'i. Seymour's Creek, milk ranch at, Hr,4. Seymour, Sir ^Michael Cnlme, and the Rocky ^Mountains trophy, 4(til : on the voyage to .Japan. 400. Shack, a, or log hut..">2. Shooting the ra])ids, l.!"i. Shopping on the < 'ars, '2'2\. Shuswaj) Lakes, like Como and Lugano, ;')1 1 : a sportsman's Para- dise, .■512 : exi(uisite heauty of. .'iiri : sunrise on tiie, -iKi. SicamoTis. the capital of the Shuswi"i country. ;')12 ; the hotel at. 312, ;il;5 : ('olonel Forrester at, ."iPi ; di'inks and food at the hotel ."114 : the ))oet-l)oots. .')I4: Indians on strike at '14 : inimber of bears feeding on dead salmon. 'Mi). Simpson, INIiss, which did Nekson love V the barmaid of the < 'hien D'Or, or Wolfe's iirovost-niarshal's daughter. 1 l."i. Si washes (Coast Indians), ;i44 : iu Stanley Park, ;)7(1. Skunk, the mau who rented a. 15U. Sleeping Car. on a, 2'M ; cost more than engines. 2."»1 : the conveniences of the stattr room on a. 2 11 ; twenty-four berths at night, garden seats and sofas l)y day, 2;'il : description nf. 2.'!0 ; getting into OIK'S berth. 2111 : tests wii.at a woman's nnide np of. 21 '.t : ditlicnlt for a lady to dress and undress, 2r.l : inconsiiU'iatene.ss of ladies in, 220 ; type.s on, 220 : men before they are niaile up. 22o. Sleighing, cowholes and snowdrifts. '.I'.t. Sleighs passii'g each other. W. Smith, (ioldwin, at his clid). I.'i7 : a Cassiindra. ir>7 : his honsi' the Hf>lland l*ark of Toronto, \ii\\ ; tea with, IT)!'). Smoking room on a car, 21,''». Snow sheds at the (i lacier House, 2X.S ; how they are constructed, 2SS ; danger of fire. 2S1». Snowshoeis. dress, like classic Creeks, ;•;> : their api)earance and move- ments, lOI). Soulard. 40. Spillimichene. full dress at. ;')27 : the trail from, ;)27 : buying cayuses for. .">! I . 27H ; Field Spring, the Higher, at Ranff, '2^\i') ; the .Middle, ^iU't. Stanley Park, .'itlo. ;!7r>, ;!7(;. Steamer, the Lake. 2i;>. Steel River, dackfish Ray. xh] fishing at, iKi. Stephen. Mount, like St. Paul's, the silver mines of, 271* ; Hotel under, 27',l. Sternwheeler. a shallow-draft, .')2H. Stewart. Dr. Ceorge. (W. O'.l. Stony Creek Rridge, 2X0. Stony Indians, life of our. .'io.'i ; paid to be photographed. ;)0.") : their dress, ijO.'i : their papoose, like a Jew or Jap child, iSOC). Sunuich, cones of. i50. Superior, Lake, waterfall at, 18(1 ; wild fruit at, 1^7 : north shore like north coast of Cornwall, I'.Mi : the north shore of. how a con- tractor made his fortune. 204 : larger than England, 213. i l^-__-. /.\i>/:\. 44'. ; cost iiidic onvoMii'Mcos oil ;i. •2'>\ : lii'lit, ^iiiili'ii Tliiy.' --Ml : -rcttiiiK into sts what ii ll'.i : (litliciilt [unl iiu'lrt"'-^. ss of liidifs : men lurt'ori' I. (I snowdrifts. 101'. W. cliil>. l.H : a s hoiisi' tlie "oronto, l.)i'i : r, 21:.. Ilacii'i- House. ■ constructeil, (■lassie (in'C'ks, ce iiw\ niove- Iress at. ;')-" : buying eayuses ,it IJanff, •J>'''': sh F.ay. 1st. PanVs. -JT '.I : FieM f-draft, :'.'JS. J CiH. ()'.». of our. ■> Uraphed. '■'< leiri'iipoose, •)0(1. ike Icr fall at, 18(); rth shore no Cornwall, \W : )f. how :i L'on- fortnne. "^''-l ■ kd, 2i:i. Sydney ITarhonr, Vietoria harbour 'like.'. is;. 'I'acouin, I'ltiii. Ti'lephoue, rt'Uiai'kahle use of, at Montreal, 711 : hwij,' tli>tanei' tele- |ilione at liouisville, l.'ll. Teiiiiscouata railway, .lli : hake, its huj,'e ti'out, .'!."). 'J'housand Islands, tlu', I4l'i : eon- sidi'rahly more than a thousand, 14(> : (heir yercnd eliaraeter. 1 111 : half in Canada, half in I'nited States, lICi : contrast iielweeu ('anadian a?id American sides. I4ti: fa^'hionaliK' life in. i IT : our liuiii^ahtw, 14s : our island. 14S : our arehiiielai,'o, 149 : swimminL; in, 14'.' : hoating in, 141' : skunks, 14'.t : channi'Is in. lai) : how good Canadians live in. Ifd : partii'S in. If)"-' : Prohibition Act in, l.VJ : the l)retty girl's catering in. \'d : keeping the boatman out of tempt- ation. Ifi'J. Thunder Cape. ."iK"). Toboggan, : tlie fair ami its exhibits. l.")(> : immense atteiidam-e at. I.'ili : Uni- versality of the ^Massey reaper and biniler, I.Mi : tlie Walkca- House at. \i)X : foreshore spoilt by railways, l."iS : lake sports, IwS : near Niagara. ITjS. Tonpiay, St. .John like, 22. Trappeurs' Club. the. 110. Trout liake. camping out, lO.'i : our fleet on. KiCt : our first fishing on, liiS : how we entered at, KiS : our first supper at, HiS : making a sludge lamp, hi'.) : its beauty iiy mooidight. 17" : our first sleep at, 171 : tubbii;giii the lake. 171 : in the reeds after deer and minnows. 17."i : not good ft)r trout. 17;) : a hundnd weight of pickerel in an hour. i7.>: the tornado at. 174: catching a (j-lb. black bass, 177 : fresh black bass a delicious lish, 177: Capt. 31. goes on lii'i'. 177 : .a lire to bathe by, I7H : grouse shooting at. 17H: the wrong cartiidues. 17^ lumber-men's shack. I7'.i : tleci shooting, how to bitak the law in three ways at one", iSd ; the berriesov our island. ]<\ : M|iMrr(4s, |s| : the deer yets away. Isl : calling a moose. IM. Tuppei'. Sir Ch.irles. I(i',>: Blount, :;(is. Tn(|ni' lileiie slide at Montreal, '.'."t, '.'7 : opened by Lord Derby, l(i7. 'I' wain. .Maik. on Niayarti I'alls. Iilil. Twin Hutte .Mount. ;;iii. I'nited States, Cauiida indciiendent of, in projMtrtion to her trade with (Ireat IJritain, 417; heavy emi- gration from, to Canada. 'J."!.'!. I'rsuline convent, r>7, ln4. Vancouver, in the \ipper rip. ii."),") ; th,! harbour by night, 'M')X : tht Mission at night, '.'>'i'.^ : the seaport of the '2(»th century, i'.fiO ; the Con- stantinople of llie \V(^st, ilt')'!: liini'ard Inlet, .".(in : False Creek, i'.i'.d: Stanley Park, .'iiiii. ;i7l, i'-T."' : alluvial lands at tiie mouth of the Frasei'. ;'li(l : feeili'rs to. cities of Puget Sound, -til : lislieries at, ;'>(i2 : head of navigation. '.W2 ; terminus of tlu' Canadi.-m Pai'itie Pailway. )>ti2 : natiu'al advantagts. 'M'>2 : gigantii- trees of. '.UVl : the nunintain at. ;il'i4 : the Narrows, I'lCil : (Hiservatory Point. .">ti4 ; the l',iin-ii\ the first steamer of the Pacific. :i()4 : commerce of, i'llld : the (ilasgow of the .N'orth-West. 'M'S : designed f'(U' one of the world's great seaports. 'M\[) : e.\- tinction of. if ( 'anada were amalga- mated with the Cnited States, "illli • the innermost port must be the commercial jiort, 'M\~ : only datt's from \>^>^i'K 'Ml : boom after the great fire, '.U'lX : my alfection for. .-')t')ll : neyer rowdy like Seattle, ;)(')'.i : the strike, ili'i'.l : its contrasts in ]8',iU, ;57() : miles of wooden paving -in: /\t)i:.\. I at. ■u\ : its iliM'liic lit;lit. ti;iiiis, ami |ii-iiitiiiL;. ■"•71 : ical cMtali- iiu'ii, ;!7I : tlir luilty ^'irl's iiivcstnicm. ."i7'_'; iiiml on Westminster mail. 'i7"J: liaiitliiTM on till' WestuiinstiT loiid, ;17J ; trains ami sU'aimis the piii'.i'iiial t'xcitenu'iil. ;'>7"J : re;ii I'slMtc. '.u'J : till- ai rival o'' a t'liina sttanuT, till- fxi'itrinent it imhscs, .'17'> : Hilk and tea trains tluir s|h'im1. '.u',\ ; sinUi;i;IiMLj ciyars ami ( 'iiinaiiu'ii. ">7''> : IjitrJisli Hay, ;i7"' : wi" tlitiilf to <;(> to .lapan. at a wi'i'k's iiotici'. ;'i7-t : tlu' ss. I'liit/ini. .">7 1 ; lu'anty v\' tlif «'n- vii'oiis. 1174: tlu' Mission, 'Mi>: Saw .Mills, ."i7."i : Capilaiio Moiinl- aiiisaml tlu> lions. 'M.'t : I'alsf ( 'rri'k. i'>7.") : J'',iii;lisli May. .■>7.") : North Ann, .">7t'» : Douglas l''irs, ;t7r( ; Cedars. ;{7.'i ; Narrows, ."i7.'). ;'>7ti ; iJcavi'i'. '.uit : Siwaslu's in Stanley I'arU. ."i7t'> : a cloaii season I'oi' Indians. :'.7(i : Cliimiok camu', i<7il ; salmon lisliini^ with a Siwasli. :)7ti : the lirst rip. .'77 : dirt eheapness of salmon, ;{77 : the I'ost (Mliee, the general I'ende/vons, ',u',) : iwash eniios. .'(7'.' : ('hiiu'se i^old haiifiles, ;;7'.i : Mr. Lonan. .^i.|^. i)7'.i : the eomnieree of, ."isil : China steameis. oSO ; a forecast of the intiire of. .'ISj. .".S-_>. :\s:\. :\x\ -. tea- trade in. 117. Vancouver. Captain. .")'.••_* : the tlowt'is ami hnman heads ho noticed on N'aiiconvir's Islam!, ■\0'.\ : his account of \'ancouver's Island aui the other island.s in tho Straits. 4(i2. Vaiiconvers J.sl.md. the New Zealand of tlie north. .">S7 : the goKl rush to. and the mainland opposite. 4(11. Van Home. Sir William, Nil ; on the ini])i'essivenes» of the prairie, 'Jiil. A'elocipede, saved liy the. .i4;>. Yermiiion Lakes. I'dS. '270. Vennilion Sea, the, l.">('. A'eterans, settlement of, like the Komans, Il'S. Victoria, wealth of, '.\S~ -. a free port till Federation. ;iS7 : harbour like Sydney L.irbour in miniature, .'587 : its only yrievance. Healing;, '.W~ ; nHwt homely city of C.inada. ;'ss ; fill! of naval ollicers, :',S\\ ■_ iin de- tached houses, I'pS'.I ; >;.irkiiii,' man better olV tli.in clerk. :iS'.l ; Saii l''raiicisco sailors in. .'I',l(l : its .loss lloiisi', ,l'.i(l : Chinese sliops, theatres, hawkers, :\'.M ; its wealth of llowcrs, :;'.il : the Aiii^liciiii Cathedral, :!'.l| : its be;-uliful har: Mir, :'.<.) I : lt.>acon Hill I'ark. ."p'.l'J : its judu'es. tlu'ir costume, ;;',••-' : the i)attery, ;'.',i-J : Juan dc l'"uca Strait. '.I'.CJ : (Mympian .Monulaiiis, .;'.i'J; Mount " Maker, i'llL' : Captain Vanciuiver, ."i'.tj : its I'ln^lisli-hiokim,' women, ">',•'_' : resi- dence of tile (Jovcrnor of Mritisli Columbia, .'I'.'l.' ; Cuiou Club, i'.'.i'J : our lod;^nnif, ;'.'.'•_' ; a forty-niner, ;'.'.•:'.. ;'i',i,"i : Consiu .lacky in, .'IIM ; intervii'wiiii,' the captain of the A iii/ili'nii. ',\\)i< ; to N'ancoiiver in ;i fo|4, I'.'S : exipiisiti! scenery be- twi'cn Vancouver and, ;>'.•'.•. N'ictoria Scpiari', Montri'al. S'.t, Villa .Maria. 7(;, Id I ; destroyed by till', 7S ; the old < ioveruiuellt House buildini,'s of. 7S : line site .'Hid extension of, 7S : the old biiildinif of, 7S, SO ; the ladies' school of, 7'.' : the church of. "'.• ; founded by M:iri^uerite l5iuiri,'eois, 7'.l : visited by the Comti' de I'aris, 10 : Royalist in its seiitinunts. ,S(>. War.oriijfin of. in IHli'. 1|S : the war in IS I -J in vain, IIS: best Ainericaus a<,'ainst it, 1 IS. War-correspondent's lecturi' t )nr in the North-West, .IIH. Washini,'tou State, why given to tho .Vnu'ricans, ;)47. "Waterfall, the double, at St. .lolin, I'.l, -Jd. Webb, Captain, drowned at th< W'hii'pool Rapids, Kl'J. Westminstoi'. New, mud and panthers on the I'oad. '.\7-. Whirlpool Rapids. IC.-J. Whisky deal, ;} I.). Wilkinson, (icneral, lis. i I /A/'/ v. Willi.iiii, l'ni(. j;;;!. Willnw I'm- )|(Mil liiiliaii clii.f 's Wilson. Ilaii.v. a iNniiisul,,' ^miv Kti'iicr, lit;,, |;i|i Wiiiian. IJasiiis. |,js aim.xatimi liati Miifl-' at Nia-ara. Ii;;!, ■NViihlcnnciv, ihr ('aiiadiaii, -js:; ■ |||,. '""■" "''■ •"•"'I : iisiiiiM4 ai. ;;.;| ; iiarn-w .sfap,. ,,r < ■|,i,il,.s, ;;.;| s'|ii!i\v-(is|ii„jr, ;;;;.-, ; ., ,„.,,|„,^v ,,r MJikcf I'asha's. .;;;,". ; rcvcliv at tlic hotel and in tli.- rouii.l Imiisr of I iif strainer. ;!;!.■. ; (I,,. Oxoni.ni's |'ic|iaiations for the spoils, ,;;;(; lii'lian liiaves at. ;;;;7 : niiiie ti'anisiers. ;;;;7 ; ,.,,^v i„,^.^_ ■;..- . raees post|.one.|. :;;;7 : |iietures<|ne siirroiin.linir.s of the laees, .i;;; ; Ki'aiid stand ami pool talile at. ■■'■""*^ : a prospt'ctor and myself appointed jndj;es, :',:\S -. systein of pools, .'i;;'! ; „() lii|noi' sold ;it, ;;:i:i • no lowdiness at, ;{;;:i : shortness of niees. ;i:;it ; lu.rses ridden l.aiv- '•■•"■l':''«l. .■!;!:>: Ilaker Pasha's neplu!\v,;;:i|(; |w. 117 )loiir.sof hoi Wmnipeu'. tlie Toronto nrChiea-'oof "i'' North \\,st, jp;; i. "jiil '"'Hided ai I',, It Koiiue ill |7;;m • follll.le.l ;i| |',„( «ii,c,-\ III |M|»' -111 : leall.v dales IVoin 'jsyii, jii;".' hii'-^l Canadian eity w.'s| ,,f Ontario, Jlii : Us ,„;,„ ,,f ,„„„, '•""il.v lia\e M.iiie fart!i..r «,.s| now. Jl.i prosperity o|, ,,,„| >liinitoha,-JI7 h,,rd hntlerin and ,""■"' "'■'•"'.'. al, •_'...-.: st,,Miiers Iroin. Ill Medicine ||al, i.',.',i. Winslow.('nl,,nel,.'vielHtheAeadiails. NV.df.. nioiinineiit to Widfe and Aloiitealni at (.(iiei.ec, IS : lij.s disposition of his forers at llio Mattleof <,)nel.ee. .VJ ; Ins despair, •'•" ; hrs linal plans. .".;[; oMi^ed tii Iransjiort his men in t wo divisions •••' : •'"'< death at (,)nel.er .",1 • oolnmn, .V. ; his l.ody taken in Knnland, .■,.•,; ivpcaiinj, (;riiy'n ldei,ry, ;[7; Wolfe's Cove. (,>iieli"ee, ;>l . "tl hati pretlv sipiaw ,jockey, ;;|(( >*fS Wolfville, (he .\, Mow- ers at, i; adia College, i; ;:' I';!;:'''' ^^"'r; -"v ■■ "" '"^-■■^\ woiseiev-s, i.o.d \\i w I : the Oapl 'odirif,' (he steal pliiin's mill. ;;||. iier, II. liateaiix at Sav mile iiidsor. shiplinildiiin; at. I ; ih I'niversity of Kiiiif's ('..ii...... i W onieii have less soiil (h; ;i(l'.>. in men. ^\ mead fruit, ows a(. ,) wild I ojleire, lowers and niversity yronnds, 1. mdsor Hotel. .Montreal, s,V hC, Woolsey. M Nelson. I i; /iirieh iss, a lady loved hy .M'eiieryof Harrison like, ;).")|.