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 218 
 
 Puyet Sound. 
 
 PUGET SOUND. 
 
 [February, 
 
 Two thousand miles of zijj'zag shores, 
 ruiiiiuig- south uud ruiuiiii<f north, bniuch- 
 iuy cast and brandling west, — no won- 
 der that the chartless De Fuca, sailing 
 between tlreni day after day, believed 
 himself to be exploring a vast river. 
 Abler navigators than he, coming laer 
 still, clung i) the idea, and it is not jet 
 a hundred } , vrs since the majestic wa- 
 ters received t'.ieir true name and jjlace 
 iu the ocean i.iuiily tree. No [lossible 
 accuracy of naming, however, no com- 
 pleteness of delinition, can les!;en the 
 spell of their fantastic wandering course. 
 No matter if one were to commit their 
 maps l;o heart and know their charts 
 like a pilot, he would never lose a vague 
 sense of expectation, sur[)rise, and half 
 bewilderment in cruising among their 
 labyrinths. Iiays within bays, inlets on 
 inlets, seas linking seas, — over twelve 
 thousand s(|uare miles of surface, the 
 waters come and go, rise and fall, past 
 a splendid succession of islands, prom- 
 ontories, walls of forest, and towering 
 mountains. Voyaging on them, one 
 drifts back into their primitive past, and 
 finds himself unconsciously living over 
 the experiences of their earliest navi- 
 gators. The old Indian names which 
 still haunt the shores heighten the illu- 
 sion ; and even the shrill screams of the 
 saw-mill cannot wholly dispel it. The 
 wilderness is dominant still. Vast belts 
 of foi'cst and stretches of shore lie yet 
 untracked, untrodden, as they were a 
 century ago, when Vancouver's young 
 Lieutenant Puget took the first reckon- 
 injis and measurements of their eminent 
 domain. 15ut the days of the wilder- 
 ness are numbered. It is being con- 
 quered and taken possession of by an 
 army of invaders more irresistible than 
 warrior-^, — men of the axe, the plow, 
 the steam-engine ; concpierors, indeed, 
 against whom no land can make fight. 
 
 The siege they lay is a siege which can- 
 not be broken ; for all th(! forces of na- 
 ture are on their side. The oruunic se- 
 crets of the earth are their allies, also 
 the hidden things »of the «ea ; and the 
 sun and the rain are loyal to the dynasty 
 of their harvests. There is, iu this 
 might of peaceful conquest of new lands 
 by patient tillers of the soil, something 
 so much grander than is to be seen in 
 any of the ))rocesses of violence and 
 seizure that one could wish there were 
 on this globe limitless uninhabited re- 
 gions, to make endless lure and oppor- 
 tunity for pioneer men and women so 
 long as the human race shall endure. 
 Once, and not so very long ago, we 
 thought we had such a limi'less region 
 on our own continent. In the United 
 States government's earlier treaties with 
 the Indians, the country " west of the 
 Mississipi)i " is again and again spoken 
 of as beyond the probable reach of 
 white settlement. In 1885, when the 
 Cherokees were removed from Georgia 
 to their present home in Indian Terri- 
 tory, the United States government by 
 treaty guaranteed to them " a perpetual 
 outlet west, and a free and unmolested 
 use of all the country west of their west- 
 ern boundary," — " as far west as the 
 sovereignty of the United Sta^'^-s and 
 their rights of soil extend." And as 
 late as ISi'i, one JNIr. Mitchell, a su- 
 perintendent of Indian aifairs, said iu 
 a report, "If we draw a line running 
 north and south, so as to cross the J\lis- 
 souri about the mouth of the Vermilion 
 River, we shall designate the limits be- 
 yond which civilized men are never like- 
 ly to settle. At this point the Creator 
 seems to have said to the tides of emi- 
 gration that are annually rolling toward 
 the west, ' Thus far shalt thou go, and 
 no farther.' " To read such records as 
 these to-day is half comic, half sad. 
 
 1883 
 
 'J 
 
 ell 
 
 throi 
 
 ka, 
 
 Kan 
 
 Terri 
 
 Colo 
 
 of it 
 
 tern I 
 
 outl 
 
 coiui 
 
 b(! 
 
 of 
 men 
 oraii; 
 In 
 ho, • 
 ces' 
 thou 
 egon 
 rulir 
 of n 
 read 
 
 I 
 
iiir^^rt**!*^**^ s*^-..:»»i^iij<^>*«r«*«miM ^•w'***' 
 
 •^*M»^'»*"- ^ 
 
 1883.] 
 
 Pugct Sound. 
 
 210 
 
 This line recommcnclod by IMr. ]\Iitcli- 
 ell would run just e:ist of Dukota, 
 thi'uu^li tlio eastern portion of Nebras- 
 ka, a littki to tlie east of the miildle of 
 Kansas, throu<^li the middle of Indian 
 Territory and Texas. Montana, Idaho, 
 Colorado, and Xew Mexieo all lie west 
 of it ; and if the Cherokees were to at- 
 tempt to-day to claim that *' perpetual 
 outlet to the west, and the use of all the 
 country west of" their own, they would 
 be confronted by hundreds of thousands 
 of Texan rangers. New ^Iexic<i stock- 
 men, Arizona miners, and California 
 orange growers. 
 
 In the north, across Montana and Ida- 
 ho, — through and beyond the Nez Per- 
 ces' old country, — immigrants by the 
 thousand are steadily pouring into Or- 
 egon and Washington Territory. Two 
 railroads are racing, straining muscles 
 of men and sinews of money, to be first 
 ready to carry this great tide. The 
 grandchildren of the men who are now 
 cutting down primeval pines on the 
 shores of Puget Sound, and on the foot- 
 hills of Oregon's mountains, will live to 
 see Ortigon as thickly settled as Mas- 
 sachusetts, and the shore line of Puii'et 
 Sound set lull of beautiful hamlets and 
 summer homes, like the Mediterranean 
 Kiviera. 
 
 The foreseeing, forecasting of all this 
 gives a tender, regretful, dreamy flavor 
 to every moment of one's sailing on the 
 Sound. As island after island recedes, 
 and promontory after prouiontory sli[)S 
 back a^ain into the obscuritv of its own 
 sheltering forest shadows, the imagina- 
 tion halts and lingers behind with them, 
 peopling their solitudes, and creating 
 on shore and hill a prophetic mirage of 
 cities to be. Shiftinu fo<;s add their ca- 
 pricious illusions and everywhere height- 
 en the mystery and multiply the mirage. 
 These mists are the Puget Sound lot- 
 tei-y for voyagers, aiul, like all lotteries, 
 tht^y deal out many bitter blanks of dis- 
 appointment to one prize. Scores of 
 travelers cruise for days iu the Sound 
 
 without once seeing land, except when 
 their boat touches shore. Jn duly and 
 August, what with fogs and smoki; from 
 burning forests, a clear dav is a rare 
 thing, and navigation, though never dan- 
 gerous, becomes tiresome enough. " I 
 tell you, you get tired of feelin' your 
 way round here in the fog, in August," 
 saiil one of the Sound ca[)tains to us, 
 '•It don't make any dilference to me. I 
 can run my boat into Mctoria, when I 
 can't see my hand's length before mo, 
 just as well 's when it's clear sunshine ; 
 but it's awful tedious. There's lots of 
 folks come up here, an' go battk, and 
 they hain't any more idea o' what the 
 Sound 's like than 's if they 'd sat still 
 iu Portland. I always feel real sorry 
 for them. I just hate to sec any travel- 
 ers comiu' abt)ard alter Auijust. June's 
 the montli for the Sound. You people 
 could n't have done better if you "d been 
 sailin' here all your lives. You 've hit 
 it exactly right." 
 
 We had, inde<!d. We had drawn a 
 seven days' prize of fair weather : they 
 were June's last seven. It is only fair 
 to })as3 on the mnnber of our ticket ; 
 for it is the one likeliest to be lucky in 
 any year. 
 
 I3y boat from Portland down the Wal- 
 "lamet River into the Columbia, down 
 the Columl)ia to Kalama. and fi'om Ka- 
 lama to New Tacouia by rail, is the 
 ordinary dry- weather route from Port- 
 land to Pugi't Soiuid. Kalama, how- 
 ever', has a habit (A' ducking inider, in 
 the hiiili times of the Columbia Hiver ; 
 and at these seasons travelei's nui^t push 
 on, northward, till llu'y come to some 
 s|)ot where llie railroad track is above 
 water. Ou this occasion we had to sail 
 well up the Cowlitz Kivei" Ix-^lori^ we 
 reached a placi! where sfeam engines 
 could go dry-shod and sufe. Thence 
 ninety \niles to Tacoma, — ninety miles 
 of half-cleared wilderness ; sixteen em- 
 bryo towns on the way, many of ihem 
 bearing musical old Indian names : 
 Olequa, Napavine, Kevvaukum, Cheha- 
 
 41S34 
 
220 
 
 Pugct Sound, 
 
 [February,^ 
 
 lis, Scuta, Tcinino. Very poor by con- 
 trast with tlicsc sountlt'd CViiitiT'ville, 
 Liike A'ievv, and Ilillliurst. So, also, it 
 must be confessed, did SUookum Ciiuck, 
 wliich is, however, simply another in- 
 stance of the deterioratinjj elT(;ct on tlie 
 Indian of intercourse with the whites ; 
 Skooknui Cinick being a phrase of the 
 barbarous Chinook jargon invented by 
 the Hudson IJay Company, to save 
 themselves the trouble of learning the 
 Indians' lau<rua<res. Skookum Chuck 
 means " plenty of water," but it sounds 
 like choking to death. There seems an 
 unwitting tribute to the cleverness of 
 the Indians in thus throwing on them 
 the burden of learning a new laiigiuige, 
 in which to carry on trailic and inter- 
 course. 
 
 The town of Tacoma is at the head 
 of Admiralty Inlet. It is half on, half 
 under, bluffs so steep that ladder-like 
 stairways are built to scale them. It 
 f)'onts east and south. To the east its 
 outlook is over seas and isthmuses of 
 forest lands. Its south horizon is cleft 
 by the majestic snow dome of Mount 
 llainier. In the west and northwest 
 lie the long Olympic ranges, also snow 
 topped. No town on the Sound com- 
 mands such sunrises and sunsets on 
 snowy peaks and stretches of sea. 
 
 "We reached Tacoma at five o'clock 
 in the afternoon. Mount Rainier then 
 was solid white. It loomed up like a 
 citadel of ice nearly three miles high in 
 the air. In less than an hour it had 
 turned from solid white to solid gold. 
 The process seemed preternatural. In 
 many years' familiar knowh^lge of all 
 the wonders which sunrise and sunset 
 can work on jicaks in the Rocky Moun- 
 tain ranges, I had never seen any such 
 ell'ect. It was as if the color came from 
 within, and not from without ; as if tiie 
 mighty bulwark were being gradually 
 heated from central fires. Still more 
 slowly than it had changed from snow 
 white to gleaming gold, it changed again 
 from the gleaming gold to a luminous 
 
 red, like that of live co;;ls. This fiery 
 glow was broken, here and there, by ir- 
 regular spaces of a vivid dark wine col- 
 or, wherever rocky ledges cropped out. 
 The siiectacle was so solemn that it was 
 impossii)le to divest one's self of a cer- 
 tain sense of awe. The glow grew hot- 
 ter and hotter, until it seemed as if fire 
 must burst from it. Tlie whole moun- 
 tain seemed translucent and quivering 
 with heat. The loui; northein t A'ilii;hL 
 deepened, but the mountain did not 
 change, unless it were to burn even more 
 fierily in the dimmer light. At last pale 
 ember tints bt>gan to creep upward from 
 the base of the peaks, very slowly, — as 
 a burning coal cools when it falls into a 
 bed of warm ashes. These tints grew 
 gray, blue, and finally faded into the 
 true ashy tint of cold embers ; gradually 
 they spread over the whole surface of 
 the mountain. At the top, a fiicker 
 of the red liufjered louij, heiiihteniuii 
 still more the suggestion of slowly cool- 
 ing fires. Tlie otitcropping ledges faded 
 from their vivid wine color to a pale 
 blue, the exact shade of shadows on 
 dead embers ; and this also heightened 
 the pallor of the ashy tiut on the rest 
 of the mountain. 
 
 Two brigs lay at anchor in the Taco- 
 ma harbor. Their every mast and spar 
 and rope stood out as if etched on tlio 
 cold yellow sky i-i the north. As our 
 boat glided out into the silent, dusky 
 vistas of forest and sea, in the deepen- 
 in«>- darkness, this network of crossinfj 
 and countercrossing lines on the sky 
 seemed to have mysterious significance, 
 as if they might belong to a system of 
 preternatural triangidation ; wrought by 
 powers of the air, whose colossal beacon 
 we had just seen extinguished. 
 
 Next morning, at four o'clock, from 
 our stateroom windows (this jdural 
 should be emphasized ; for there are 
 not to be found on many waters steam- 
 boats which contain staterooms with two 
 windows and double beds, such as are 
 to be found on Puget Sound), — next 
 
mmM 
 
 WtMiMBWi^iig II i»iHi>ii 
 
 ^\'l)r 
 
 uar^' 
 
 .r> 
 
 1883.] 
 
 Pvget Sound. 
 
 221 
 
 This fit'ry 
 I'i'c, l)y ir- 
 wiiio col- 
 •Pl"'il out. 
 i.it it was 
 of a cer- 
 .i,M-e\v liot- 
 iis if fire 
 >le moiiii- 
 quiveriii(^ 
 1 t .vilii;lii, 
 (lid not 
 ivc'ii more 
 last pale 
 rt'anl fi'Din 
 iwly, — as 
 alls into a 
 ints g\-e\y 
 into the 
 gradually 
 surface of 
 a flicker 
 ii^htcninfr 
 pwly cool- 
 Iges faded 
 to a pale 
 idows on 
 ei,<,diteued 
 ri the rest 
 
 tlie Taco- 
 
 ; and spar 
 
 tid on the 
 
 As our 
 
 lit, dusky 
 
 3 decpen- 
 
 cros.sinnf 
 
 the sky 
 
 nificaiice, 
 
 system of 
 
 ■ought by 
 
 il beacon 
 
 >ck, from 
 s ])lural 
 here are 
 r.s sleam- 
 with two 
 Il as are 
 , — next 
 
 morning, from our stateroom windows, 
 at four o'clock, we looked out on one of 
 the cliaraeteristic Puget Sound pictures. 
 It glided past, changing each second: 
 terraces and peaks of mountain and 
 cloud ; 'viber against a pale green sky; 
 domes and lines of dark fir fon.'st, a 
 hair line of gold ediring each one to the 
 east ; here and there a roof or a chira- 
 iiev among the trees ; wooded islands 
 sailing into and out of sight in a twin- 
 kliiig, their shadows trailing pur|)le on 
 the water ; a cluster of white houses 
 close on the shore ; boats drawn up ; 
 the tide out, aiul a stretch of shingle 
 sparkling wet ; a bi^ach wall of tall lirs 
 a few rods back ; a boat ijulling over 
 from another dusky shore, opposite and 
 near; sun's rays stealing uj) ahead of 
 the sun, flashing on the boatman's oars 
 and lighting up every window in the 
 liamlet. Our boat swung round and in, 
 and halted ; a man leaped ashore. The 
 silence was so absolute that the com- 
 monest act or motion seemed stealthy. 
 As the boat backed out of the inlet, the 
 sun rose from behind a fir foi-est, and 
 flashed every one of the spear tops into 
 a sort of sudden presenting of arms 
 along the whole sky-line. It was not 
 full sunrise yet in the inlet; but onci; 
 out in the wider sea, we swept into 
 broad light. In the distance a steam- 
 boat and a brig were sailing side by 
 side. The brig took rank with nature at 
 once : no sign of effort about her mo- 
 tion ; only a little curl of white water at 
 her bows, like a quiet, satisfied chuckle. 
 For one second her masts cut across 
 the great dome of Mount Kainier, and 
 reaching half-way to its top seemed sud- 
 denly to shftot towards the sky. The 
 whole picture, — landing, departure, 
 dawn, sunrise, — all was over and past 
 in less time than its telling takes. The 
 swift beauty of these moments is only 
 an average succession of average mo- 
 ments of which hours are made up, when 
 one sails on Paget Sound. 
 
 Our next stop Was at Port Gamble. 
 
 To i(!ach it, wo hail sailed twenty-four 
 miles; yet by a road across the prom- 
 ontoi'y it was only eleven miles away 
 from our sunrisi; halting place, so much 
 do the winding wafer roads double oii 
 th'.'mselves. I'ort (Jamble is, like; most 
 of the Puget Sound towns, simply a 
 saw-mill village. It has a ])(>])ulaliou 
 of four hundred people, every man of 
 whom is at work in, or in connection 
 with, the lumber-mills. The village is 
 only a clearing in the shore side of the 
 f( 'est: rough little houses, painted 
 white, witii here and there a flower gar- 
 den. On the wharf sat a handsome 
 Indian woman. Her face was more 
 Egyptian than Indian, and, with its level 
 eyebrows, line nostrils, and strongly 
 moulde<l mouth and chin, wouUl have 
 done no discredit to a priestess on the 
 ]S'ile. She was one of the IJritish Co- 
 lumbia Indians ; free to come and go 
 where she pleased. The captain of our 
 boat knew her, and said sin; ,vas very 
 '• well off;" her husband worked in the 
 lumber-mills. "She's a IJritish sub- 
 ject, you see," he added. '" There can't 
 anybody molest her, 's long 's slie be- 
 haves herself The IJiitish Columbia 
 Indians are a good lot, generally." 
 
 '•Yes," I replied. ''The English gov- 
 ernment has treated its Indians bet!;(.'r 
 than we have ours.'' 
 
 " That 's so," said the captain, em- 
 phatically. '• They don't deceive 'em, 
 in the first place, nor plunder 'em, in 
 the second place." 
 
 The air was resonant with shrill saw- 
 mill noises. Lurid smoke, like that from 
 smelting- works, poured u]) from the 
 fires. The mill itself was a deaf(Miiiig, 
 blinding, terrifving storm of machinery: 
 saws by dozens, upright, luMi/ontal, 
 circular, whirring and whizzing on all 
 sides ; great logs, sixty, a hundred feet 
 long, being hauled up, dripping, out of 
 the water, three at a time, by ii(,'rco clank- 
 ing chains, slid into grooves, turned, 
 hung, drawn, and quartered, driven from 
 one end of the building to Uie other 
 
ooo 
 
 Pugct Sound. 
 
 [February, 18H" 
 
 llkf! liixlitiiiiipf, — a wlioln tron sluiiyh- 
 tcrt'd, iiiaile into phiiiks, liitlis, staves, 
 Mocks, sli:iviii;j;s, and suwdust, in the 
 twiiikliiiif of iui eye. 
 
 One liuiHlred ami fifty thousand feet 
 of hunber in a day are now turned out 
 in this mill. There is a record of a 
 year wlien, running day and nigiit, it 
 turned out fifty-foLir million feet. Its 
 furnaces are fed solely by its own saw- 
 dust, automatically poured in ii. cease- 
 less streams. But even these cannot 
 consume half tlie sawdust made ; great 
 piles of it, outside, are perpetually burn- 
 ing; night and day, the fires smoulder 
 and blaze, burning up the sawdust aiid 
 bits of wood, but they cannot keep pace 
 with the mill. Such waste of tons of 
 fuel makes one's heart ache, thinkiiifj 
 of the cities full of poor, shivering and 
 freezing every winter. 
 
 The most demoniacal thini^ in the 
 mill was a sort of huge iron nipper, with 
 a head whoso shape suggested some gro- 
 tesque heathen idol. This came up at 
 regular intd ds, a few seconds ajjurt, 
 through an opening in the floor, opened 
 its jaws, seized a log, and turned it over; 
 then sank again out of sight, till the 
 next log was ready for turning. There 
 was a fierce and vindictive expression 
 in the intermittent action of this autom- 
 aton, which made it seem like a sentient 
 and malignant demon, rather than a ma- 
 chine. 
 
 Sitting with his face sheltered be- 
 hind a large pane of glass, which was 
 mounted like a screen, sat a man sharj)- 
 eniuijj saws on a big iron wheel, driven 
 by steam. The wheel revolved so swift- 
 ly that volleys of blazing sparks flew 
 riiflit and left from tlie saw teeth. Per- 
 haps nothing could give a stronger im- 
 pression of the amount of force expend- 
 ed in the mill than the fact that this 
 saw sharpener and his lightning wheel 
 never rest while the mill is going. 
 
 Shutting one's eyes and listening at- 
 tentively to the whirring din, one per- 
 ceived myriads of tin'* upper violin notes 
 
 in it, and now and then a splendid bass 
 chord, as of a giant violoncello ; again, 
 thuds of heavy logs would crash in 
 among the finer metallic sounds, till the 
 sound secimed like the outburst of a co- 
 lossal discordant orchestra. 
 » Outside! the mill were huge booms of 
 loi:s floating in the water. Oiu; mi;:ht 
 walk over acres of them. They had all 
 come from distant forests on tlu; Somid. 
 The mill companies are too shrewd to 
 cut their own timber, in the vicinity of 
 the mills, yet the company to whicli 
 this mill belongs is said to own a ([uar- 
 ter of •' million acres of solid forest; 
 but at present they buy all their logs, 
 most of them from men who cut them 
 under the Timber Act. 
 
 The wharves were lined with ships 
 waiting to carry the lumber away. The 
 ships themselves, many of them, had 
 been built on the Sound, at Poi t Town- 
 send and otlun- ports. Their masts, 
 a hundred feet tall, without knot or 
 blemish, had come from the same for- 
 ests which had supplied the planks now 
 beirg stowed ignominiously away in 
 their holds. It was a marvelous sight 
 to see the loading. Each ship was 
 packed many tiers deep with lumber ; 
 the hold filled in solid, and the deck 
 piled high. The planks were lifted by 
 a derrick, on the wharf, and shot down, 
 sliding, to the deck. 
 
 At the rate trees are being cut down, 
 and lumber shipped away from this re- 
 gion, it is a comparatively siini)le calcu- 
 lation to reckoii how long it will take 
 to strip the country bare. I^ngland, 
 France, Australia. China, Japan, and 
 even the Sandwich Islands are using 
 Oregon and "Washington jiine and fir. 
 The Pacific coast Of South America 
 uses little else. Enthusiastic statisticians 
 publish estimates of the vast amounts of 
 standing timber ; showing, for instance, 
 that the timber now standing in Wash- 
 ington Territory alone is equal to the 
 consumption of the whole United States 
 during the last hundred years. To the 
 
■iii4*awiairM 
 
 i^M^SS 
 
 Mi^ 
 
 I to iw«i 
 
 Ft;l)ninTy, 
 
 •li'ndid buss 
 ■Ilo ; Miraiii, 
 cr.Msli ill 
 mis, till (ho 
 rsL of ii co- 
 
 1)()otn>; of 
 
 Olio niii;lit 
 
 licy- liiul all 
 
 tli(! SoiuhI. 
 
 shrewd to 
 
 vicinity of 
 
 Y to which 
 
 )wn a qiiar- 
 
 nlid forest; 
 
 their loi:;s, 
 
 cut them 
 
 with ships 
 jiWiiy. The 
 
 tliein, had 
 
 'oit Town- 
 leir masts, 
 It knot or 
 
 same for- 
 [ilaiiks now 
 r away in 
 elons sight 
 .sliip was 
 h lumber; 
 I tlie dock 
 e lifted by 
 shot down, 
 
 cut down, 
 m tliis re- 
 iiplo calcu- 
 
 will take 
 
 England, 
 apan, and 
 are using 
 le and iir. 
 
 America 
 atisticians 
 mounts of 
 ■ instance, 
 in Wash- 
 lal to the 
 ied States 
 . To the 
 
 188S.] 
 
 Pugot SonuiJ. 
 
 
 initliiiikiiig Amoriran tliis seems a suf- 
 iiciciit ground for dismissing ;''] anxiety 
 on tlie subje<;t ; and hv. does not pause 
 to establish any connection ir. his mind 
 between this statement and tlw; fact that 
 the mills on Puget Sound, when all at 
 work, have a. cutting capa^'ity of thn* 
 liiindreil millions of feet a year, three 
 of them cutting over a Imndrod thou- 
 sand fe(-t a day each, and a fourth be- 
 ing put into (londition to cut two hun- 
 dred thousand. Americiuis are often 
 rc[ir()!iclie(l, and justly, for their lack (f 
 reve-ence for the past; there seems 
 even a greater dishonor in their lack of 
 f.eiix' of responsibility for the future. 
 
 T/'aving Port (lan.iile, wo sailed 
 straight into a cloud of silver radiances ; 
 fog banks, sifted and shot through by 
 sun's rays. Ceaselessly shifting and il- 
 luniining, retriMti'ig and advancing, they 
 ■wrapped us in a new world, almost more 
 beautiful than that from which they shut 
 us out. Now and then, a weird shape 
 glideil past, wi;h warning cries : a steam- 
 boat, or a big log boom drawn by a tug. 
 These log booms are amoiiix the most 
 picturesrpio features of the Sound. They 
 are sometimes lifteeii hundred feet long 
 and sixty wide, and contain a million 
 feet of lumb( r. The logs, being idl 
 barked, are yellow ami glistening; and 
 as the boom sways and curves on the 
 water, the whole surface of it shines 
 like a floor of fluted gold. 
 
 At Port Lu<lIow, another saw -mill 
 town, we stopped o[)po>ite a hiigi; water 
 tank, which stood on posts some lifteen 
 or twenty feet high, clos(i to the shore. 
 It was a beautiful instance of nature's 
 readiness to adopt and beautify the 
 barest and baldest things. This rouuh 
 board tank, just as it stood, dripping 
 water at every crevice, would have been 
 ail ornament to any conservatory iu the 
 land. Prom every joint waved grasses 
 and vines ; they hung over, nodded and 
 blew into tangles with each breeze. The 
 cross-beams were covered with green 
 moss, and from each side there hun^ 
 
 out [danta ni blossom : yellow and pur- 
 ple asters, a tall spike of red lireweed in 
 one corner, and myriads of line white 
 flowers whose name I did not know. 
 
 l)efore ten o'clock W(^ bad reached 
 Port Townsend. Kntering its harbor, 
 we saileil through the fog widl as 
 through dividing folds of curtains at a 
 doorway. " Never a i^^^ in Port Town- 
 send Harbor," is a saying on the Sound. 
 The town lies on high blulTs, and a 
 prettier village coiihl not bo found. We 
 jumpetl ashore, took a carriage, and saw 
 all of the town which could be seen in 
 fifteen minutes' rapid driving. The 
 houses are wooden, chiefly whit(% but 
 are bowered in ros(;s and honeysuckles. 
 The white honeysuckle is indigenous to 
 the region and grows with a liixuriatuM! 
 incredible to those who know it only as 
 a cultivated exotic. It was no rare 
 sifjht here to see a cottage with one side 
 covered, from eaves to ground, by a 
 matted wall of the fragrant blossoms. 
 Port Townsend is a military post, and 
 an air of orderly precision seems to per- 
 vade the whole place. The oif-look t)Ver 
 the Sound is grand : on the one hand the 
 Olympic Mountains, and on the other, 
 INIount Baker and its ranges; between 
 these, countless vistas of inlet and isl- 
 and and promontory. 
 
 As we came out of the harbor, the 
 fog stood, an amber wall, across our 
 path. It curved outward at the mid- 
 dle, and as we drovi; straight on into 
 it, it seemed as if it were; l)enirui<j[ be- 
 fore us, till it broke, and took us into 
 its silvery centre. 
 
 From Port Townsend it is a three 
 hour'-' run, across the Straits of l)e Fuca, 
 to Victoria on ^'ancouver's Island ; and 
 here, at one's first step, he realizes that 
 he is on British soil. It is strange that 
 two peoples speaking the same language, 
 holding in the main the same or similar 
 beliefs, can have in their daily living 
 so utterly dissimilar atmosph(;res as do 
 the Americans and the English. This 
 sharp contrast can nowhere be more 
 
224 
 
 Pw/et Sound. 
 
 1 
 
 [Fobiiiiiry, 1883.] 
 
 vividly seen tlian in ^oin;^ from Wish- niilns ; then, tuniin^' to tlio ri;,fht, tliroiiifli 
 
 in^ton Territory to Viuiconvtir's I>hincl. woods thiitnK'ct (iverliciid, past (ichls lull 
 
 Victoria is a town which would well re- of tossinj; fringes of brakes and thickets 
 
 pay a careful study. Kven in the most of spiru'a twenty feet hii,di, he conies sud- 
 
 ciii'soiy glances at it, one sees symptoms denly on another (!.\(juislto land-locked, 
 
 uf r(!ticent life, a llavor of mystery and unsuspected harbor, — the E.s(piimault 
 
 k'isure, backgrounds of traditionary di,:^- jiarbor, with its own little hamlet, 
 
 nity and hereditary squalor, such as one Skirting around this, and bearini;' back 
 
 nii^lit i,n» up and down the whole I'aci- towards the town again, by a road far- 
 
 fic coast, from San Diego to Portland, ther inland, he finds that to reach the 
 
 and not find. When Victoria is, as town he must cross inlet after inlet, 
 
 it is sure to become, sooner or later, a Wooded, dark, silent, amber -colored, 
 
 wide-known summering place, no doubt they are a very paradise for lovers of 
 
 its byways and highways, its bygone rowing; or for lovers of wooing, either, 
 
 ways and days, will prove mines of treas- we thought, as we came again and again 
 
 ure to the imagination of some dreaming on a tiny craft, in which two sat with 
 
 st(jry-telh;r. The business i)art of the idle oars. At other times, as we were 
 
 town, if one may be pardoned such a mis- crossing some picturesque stone bridge, 
 
 nomer in speaking of its sleepy streets, a pleasure barge, with gay flags Hying, 
 
 is rul)l)ishy and littered. The buildings and young men and maidens singing, 
 
 are slial)I»y, unadorned, with no pretense would shoot out from under it, and dis- 
 
 of design or harmony. They remind appear around a leafy corner. From 
 
 one of the inferior [)ortions of second- every higher ground we could see the 
 
 class commercial towns in England, and majestic wall of the Olympic range 
 
 the men and women in the shops, on rising in the south. The day will come 
 
 doorsteps, and in alley-ways look as if when some painter will win fame for 
 
 they might have just come from Hull, himself by painting this range as seen 
 
 But once outside this part of the town, from Victoria: a solid wall of tunpioiso 
 
 all is changed : delightful, picturesque blue, with its sky-line fretted and tur- 
 
 s ; gn'at meadow spaces full of retted in silver snow, rising abru{)t and 
 
 .s ; knolls of mossy bowlders; old perpendicular out of a dark green and 
 
 trees swathed in ivy ; cottages buried purple sea. I do not know any mouu- 
 
 in roses and honey-suckle ; comfortable tain range so beautiful or so grandly set. 
 
 houses, with lawns and hedges, sun-dials Often its base is wrapped in white irists, 
 
 and (plaint weatlier- vanes; castle-like which look as if they were crystallized 
 
 houses of stone, with lodges and high in ripples and ridges, like a field of ice 
 
 walls and driveways ; and, to complete floes. Rising out of these, the blue wall 
 
 the picture, sauntering down the lanes, and snowy summits seem lifted into the 
 
 or driving at stately paces along the per- skies ; to have no connecfjou with earth 
 
 feet roads, nonchalant men and leisurely except by the ice-floe belt, 
 
 women, whose nonchalance and leisure Turning one's back on the sea, and 
 
 could not be outdone or outstared in driving northward from the town, one 
 
 Ilyde Park. finds a totally new country and expres- 
 
 At every turn is a new view of the sion : little farms of grazing or grain 
 
 sea, or a sudden glimpse of some half- fields, the oats and wheat struggling in 
 
 hidden inlet or bay. These bursts and a hand-to-hand fight with the splendid, 
 
 surprises of beautiful bits of water are triumphant brakes; stretches of forest 
 
 the greatest charm of the place. Driving so thick their depths are black, and the 
 
 westward from the town one has the su- tree-tops meet above the road. Except 
 
 perb Koyal Heads harbor on the left for for occasional glimpses of blue water 
 
 on the 
 sea nil 
 Farnic 
 in pri 
 from t 
 in tlie 
 
 of till! 
 
 close, 
 left, ( 
 scurity 
 mor(! 
 one o 
 
 foie-t, 
 
 a uati' 
 seen o 
 trail, 
 drew I 
 over I 
 lows <> 
 till w 
 chiinii 
 rods !i 
 knnll, 
 honey 
 tage, 1 
 a mon 
 right 
 up int 
 pause 
 Olymj 
 
 POUtll 
 of W( 
 
 far a 
 nior(^ 
 
Jitmtt 
 
 JhMk 
 
 III i«h> 
 
 Fobruiiry, I8H0.] 
 
 Puget Sound. 
 
 225 
 
 'it, tlir()l|(_rll 
 
 stncMsfilii 
 
 tiid tliickc'ts 
 
 comos Slid- 
 
 ainl-lockcrl, 
 
 Iv><|iiiiiiaiilt 
 
 luiinlcf. 
 iiriiii;' hack 
 
 1 road far- 
 reach tho 
 
 after iiilut. 
 cr- colored, 
 r lovers of 
 iiiff, ('ither, 
 1 and a^fain 
 o sat witli 
 IS we wfro 
 )ne hridife, 
 ag.s (lying, 
 IS siiitfing, 
 it, and dis- 
 er. From 
 dd see the 
 ipie range 
 ^ will come 
 I fame for 
 ge as seen 
 f turtjuoiso 
 d and tiir- 
 iibrupt and 
 green and 
 any mouu- 
 randly set. 
 liite rcists, 
 rystallized 
 ield of ice 
 ! hi lie wall 
 id into tho 
 with earth 
 
 5 sea, and 
 town, cue 
 id expres- 
 : or grain 
 iggliiig iu 
 sidendid, 
 of forest 
 c, and the 
 Except 
 ue water 
 
 on the right, it would sooin as if tiie 
 Kca iniHt he hiiiidnds of miles away. 
 I-'armcrs working in ticlds, or driving 
 ill piiinilivi! carts, look as rciniivcd 
 from tlir (.'ari'h'ss, .slatlci'iily shop people 
 in the (own as from the geiilleinen folks 
 of the stone castles or the cathedral . 
 close. Woiid roails turn off to right and 
 left, (lisippearliig at oiiee in such oh- 
 sciirity of shadow that they seem little 
 more than cavt: openings. We followe<l 
 one of them through miles of tunneled 
 forest, till it was suddenly stop[)e<l hy 
 a gate, heyoml which all that could he 
 seen of road seemed little more than a 
 trail. 'V\\{\ lure of an unknown road 
 drew us irresistil)ly, and we pushed on, 
 over howldti's, through spicy, dark hol- 
 lows of 111' foi-esl. winding and climhing, 
 till we saw [hrouv,h the tj'ces a low 
 chimney and a gleam of sea. A few 
 rods moie, and we came out on a rocky 
 kiinll, where, ill a thicket of trees and 
 hoiu ysui-khs and roses, stood a tiny cot- 
 tage, looking out on a sea view which 
 a moiKuvli might have coveted: on the 
 right hand, :i wooded cove, running far 
 up into the forest; in front, a hroad ex- 
 panse of lilue water, with the great 
 Olympic range rising out of it in the 
 south distanci; ; on the left, a shore lino 
 of wooded points and promontories, as 
 far as the eve could reach, iirowing 
 inor(> and nioie dusky, till they melted 
 into the hazyhlueof the Cascade range. 
 
 It was a Scotch slu^ep i'arnu»r, who 
 had sptiirod ahont till he found for him- 
 self this (lelectal)le nook. lie had four 
 hundred sheep on the place, and made a 
 living for himself, wife, and four chil- 
 dren hy selling mutton, wool, and now 
 and then lamhs. The sea hroughl to him 
 all the fi-h his family could eat, and 
 ho h.ad at his back miles of fir forest for 
 fuel. It was never cold in winter, and 
 never hot in summer, he said ; and the 
 glossy leaves of a manzanita copse on 
 the crest of his rocky knoll bore witness 
 to the truth of his words. A short dis- 
 tance from shore, just in front of the 
 
 VOL. Ll. — NO. 304. 15 
 
 house, lay oiMi small island, as if moored. 
 On it was a curious structure of weather- 
 heati'U hoards, half house, half platform. 
 It was an Indian burial-place. The farm- 
 er said the Indians came there, often 
 from a great distance, bringing; their 
 dead for burial. They came in Meets of 
 canoes, singing and chanting. Si)me of 
 the bodies Were huried in graves, hut 
 chiefs and distinguished warriors were 
 wrapped in their l)lank(!ts, and laid upon 
 shelves in the house. 1I(! had olUni been 
 tempted, he said, to go over and examine 
 tlui place ; but he thought " may he the 
 In<lians would n't like it," and not one 
 of his family had tiver set foot on tho 
 island. All that they knew of tho spot, 
 or of the ceremonies of the funerals 
 taking place there, was what they had 
 b(.'en able to see with a glass from their 
 own shore. 
 
 There coul 1 be nowhere in the world 
 a sharper transition, in a <lay's journey, 
 than that which we inadt; in going from 
 Victoria to Seattle. Seattle is twenty- 
 seven years old hy the calendar, but hy 
 record of actual life only six, so that 
 it has all the bustle and stir of a new 
 American town. One can fancy a Vic- 
 toria cltiz(!n being stunned an<l bewil- 
 dered on landing at Seattle. Its six 
 thousand people are all aswarm ; streets 
 being graded, houses going up, wharves 
 building, steamers loading with coal, and 
 yet blackberry vines, stumps, and wild 
 brakes are to he seen in half tho streets. 
 
 The town lies on and among high 
 terraces, rising steeply from the shores 
 of the Sound. It fronts west, and has 
 on its distant western fiorizon the same 
 grand Olympic Mountains whicli Vic- 
 toria sees to the south. iJetween it and 
 them stretch zigzag shores, wooded to 
 the water's edge, and broken by high 
 cliffs and bold promontories. It is rich 
 in other waters, also, having behind it, 
 only two miles away. Union Lake, eight 
 miles long and two wide, connected 
 by a portage of six hundred feet with 
 Washington Lake, which is twenty-eight 
 
 i 
 
U\ 
 
 220 
 
 J^lll/cf Sound. 
 
 [VAn-iuwy, j^^;^ 
 
 mill's loni:j and from two to tun wide. 
 Tlu'sii lakes uns surrouiKUul hy wooilod 
 uphiiuls (iT <s,iHu\ soil. Wlitiii SciUtlo is 
 ii rich comiiK'iciul city, a tfjriniiius ot tlio 
 Northern I'iicilii; IJailruail. thuso uplaiwls 
 will 1)1! th<! place where SeatlUi lor- 
 tuiios will bo spout in Imildiii^ villas. 
 Already land on theso t'orost ritli^os com- 
 mands lifti'eii hundred dollars an acre ; 
 and the chai'ter is granted for a horse- 
 car route, many miles out into what is 
 now unbroken wilderiuuss. Seattle has 
 a nniversity, with three hundred pupils, 
 boys iuid twirls ; and a (,'atholic hospital, 
 to which our driver paid a warm tribute, 
 exclaiinin;^', " Those Catholic sisters are 
 the women I want to have take care ol 
 me when I 'm sick. They take cart; of 
 everybody all alike. If a fellow 's got 
 money, he must pay ; but if he has n't got 
 a cent, they '11 take just as good care of 
 him, all the same." 
 
 A large part of the present and pro- 
 s|)ective wealth of Seattle is in coal 
 mines. The principal ones lie twenty 
 miles southeast of the town, in the aj)- 
 propriately named village of Newcas- 
 tle, to which a narrow-gauge railroad 
 runs out, through a lane of wild syrin- 
 ga, spira;a, black aldci, pines and iirs. 
 It was like a long gallery of Corots : 
 no tops of trees to be seen, but myri- 
 ads of vistas of drooping branches and 
 folds of foliage. Linnea vines hung in 
 wreaths and white clover in drifts over 
 the edges and sides of the railroad cuts ; 
 so troi)ical a luxuriance of growth comes 
 even in these northern, latitudes from 
 their solid half year of rain. 
 
 " It docs n't really rain all the time, 
 does it?" I said to a discontented New- 
 castle woman, who had been complain- 
 ing of the wet winters. 
 
 " Well, if you was to see me hang- 
 ing out my clo'es Monday morning, an' 
 waitin' till Saturday for 'era to dry, an' 
 then takin' 'em in an' dryin' 'em by the 
 fire, I guess you 'd think it rained about 
 all the time," she replied resentfully. 
 " I 've lived here goiu' on five years, an' 
 
 I hain't t'vc.r dried a week's wash out-of- 
 doors in tho wint(!r timt! yet, an' 1 'm 
 sick on 't. To bo sure, yon cun't ever 
 say it's cold. That 's one comfort." 
 
 N(!wcasile is a grimy huddle of huts 
 on the sides of a pocket of hillside jiutl 
 forest : huts above huts ; stumps above 
 sttnnps ; handfuls of green grass among 
 patches of ro(;ks ; bits of palings ; kd)y 
 rinths of goat paths from hut to hut ; 
 strips of stairways here and tlierc;, to the 
 houses of the more andiitious ; wooden 
 chimneys of rough planks built aslant 
 against the houses' outsidt! walls ; coal 
 heaps; hea[)S of refuse; black(!ui!d car> 
 di'awn by mides ; miners running hilher 
 and yon, sooty as imps, (iach with a lurid 
 fiame burning in a tin tub(! on his cap 
 visor, — th(! sciaie was weird and hor- 
 rible. A small white clia[)el stood on oni; 
 of the highest ridges: it took a stairway 
 of twenty-two stejis to reach it, but the 
 bottom stair was above most of the 
 chimneys of the village. I sat down on 
 this staircase and looki'd with dismay 
 over the place. Presently there came 
 hobbling by an old woman, leaning on a 
 cane ; with her, an agile, evil-fac. 1 little 
 boy. who was evidently kept by her side 
 much against his will. I did not need 
 to hear her speak to know that she was 
 English. English scjualor, especially if 
 it have once been respectability, is even 
 more instantaneously recognizable than 
 English finery : carpet shoes ; a dingy 
 calico gown ; a red knit shawl ; a black 
 velvet bonnet, a score of years old, the 
 crown shirred in sipiares and gray with 
 dust ; a draggled feather atop of still 
 more draggled and rusty lace ; in the 
 front a velvet braid, of three separate 
 shades of brown which had once been 
 red ; a burnt-out old frizette of brown 
 hair, — all this above a i)itiful aged 
 face, bright hazel eyes, full of nervous 
 irritability and wan sorrow. It was long 
 since I had seen such a study. 
 
 A glance was all the invitation she 
 needed to sit down by my side, and be- 
 gin to pour out her tale. She had come 
 
 1 
 
.^*»..«IJfc.<J».J>*«l» ■Il'l1»l*il»ll>il 
 
 [Fi'l.iuai-y, j^y.^^ 
 
 Piiget Sound. 
 
 no 
 
 27 
 
 '■< U.isll (Mlt-of- 
 
 y»-t. nil' ] 'ii, 
 
 /oil <;iii't ever 
 ' fiiiiilort." 
 iid'lli! of hilts 
 
 'I' llillsido ;iti(| 
 
 ■■stumps ahovi' 
 I yiiiss iunoii^' 
 l»iiliii;,'s; kil)y 
 1 liiiL lo lull ; 
 <l tlmro, to tlic 
 ions ; wooden 
 Iniilt aslant 
 Willis ; eoal 
 )liU'k(!iie(l eats 
 iiiiiiiiii; liitlicr 
 li wiili a lurid 
 'x' on his cup 
 i'ii<l and Jior- 
 .stood on on(! 
 ok a stairway 
 -ii it, hut tlu! 
 most of till' 
 I sat, down on 
 Willi dismay 
 \y there eanie 
 I, loaning on a 
 vil-l'ac'.d little 
 pt hy her side 
 Ji<l not need 
 ' that she was 
 ', especially it 
 bility, is even 
 ^nlzahle than 
 IOCS ; a dingy 
 lawl ; a black 
 years old, tlu' 
 lud gray with 
 atop of still 
 lace ; in the 
 wee separate 
 id once been 
 tte of brown 
 ])itiful aged 
 .1 of nervous 
 It was louii' 
 
 ivitation she 
 side, and be- 
 lie iiad come 
 
 up to Newcastle from Tieiifon. for her 
 •' '.•1th." 
 
 " And how far is Iveiiton ? '' 
 
 " Willi, ye 'II coaiii from lu'iilon to 
 this for forty cents." 
 
 I was struck by the novelty of this 
 niiithod of I'slimating distance. The 
 rich rc'-kon it by hours ; the poor, it 
 seems, l)y cents. 
 
 She was horn in Staffordshire, Kng- 
 laiid. where s\w lived till she was forty 
 years old. Her first husband was a (jol- 
 lier. " Ke was a vary 'eavy num. An' 
 he niadi! too nnich blood. For five years 
 'ee was a inakkin too nuush blood ; an' 
 tin; do(!tors said it 'u'd be good for 'im 
 to go to America. KIse I 'd nevijr have 
 gone. 'T was for that I brought 'im. 
 1 did not tart till I was turned forty. 
 Oh, I 've 'ad troubles ! Ay, the oops and 
 downs in this life! Ye doaii know what 
 ve "II live through with. 
 
 " I lost live children a-cuttin' teeth, 
 a ruiiiiiir, at fourteen months each ; an' 
 then their father was killed, too, ai ' that 
 wiis worse than the children. 
 
 '* It was agcn all my prayers that 'oe 
 went in the mine that day. I 'd a bad 
 dream : an' I said to 'im, Now I 've 'ad 
 a dream ; an' if ye go in the mine 't 'uU 
 be yrair grave ye goin' into ; an' afore 
 ni^ht h(! was deatl. There was nineteen 
 others killed, too. It was a coal mine ; 
 a slaughter mine, — that 's what it was, 
 by rights." 
 
 This was in Virginia ; in the coal 
 mines in the southern part of the State. 
 She soon married again, and with li»!r 
 second husband was keeping a country 
 store, and earning money fast, when, 
 only three inonths before the war broke 
 out, their store burned down, without 
 insurance. 
 
 " We wa'n't like a many folks," she 
 said, "not pay'.n' our debts because we 
 was burned out. We paid up every 
 dollar we owed, an' had enough money 
 'eft to take us back to England for a 
 visit. I was n't ever afraid o' my hands. 
 I was as liberal to work as if it was to 
 
 airn a fortune. T wai always a singin' 
 to my work like a JiartiiiLiale." 
 
 When they relumed to America they 
 joined a party of l''ii;_di^li emigrants to 
 N'ancouver's Islaiiil. and her husband 
 went into the mines there. I'mt misfor- 
 tune did not i|iiii its hold of her. In an 
 accident in a mine, her husband was in- 
 juicd liy falling beams, so that ho could 
 never again do heavy work, and all of 
 her childfeii died exi-ept the youngest. 
 
 *' There 's a great pleasiirt; with hav- 
 ing children," (>he said, '* an' there 's a 
 great trouble to lose '(in ; but I 've lived 
 to thank the Lord that he took mine as 
 he did. It's a wicked world (ov 'em tf^ 
 coam through. There was three men 
 was lynched down at Seattle last week. 
 It's trew they 'd done a murder; but I 
 think they s'u'd 'a' 'ad tin; riglit o' the 
 good law. When 1 lieere(l it, it made 
 me sick. I was a-thiiikin' they'd got 
 mothers, mabbe, "an if a woman was to 
 'ear that she 'd a child to be lynched 
 tliat way, it 'u'd be the tinishin' of her; 
 an 'art-breakin' thing, to l)e sure." 
 
 She rambled on and on, with such 
 breaks in her narrative, in time and se- 
 quence, that it wa* almost incoherent ; 
 every now smd then she would sink into 
 half soliloquy, with a recurrence of 
 ejaculations, as if she were li(!r own 
 (h'eek chorus. Her ''Ay, ay, I 've 'ad 
 troubles," reminded me of Carlyle's too 
 late, poignant " Ay, de' me." 
 
 S!k! is seventy-three years old. Her 
 husband is seventy-nine. He earns two 
 dollars a day in a mine. 
 
 "Ah," said I cheerfully. "That 
 gives you sixty dollars a month. That 
 is a comfortable Income." 
 
 '* Na I na ! " she said sharply, — '' na 
 sixty dollars; there 's but six days to the 
 week. There 's nobody belonging to 
 me 'all do Sunday work. Sunday work 
 *s no good. No luck comes o' Sunday 
 work," and she gazed sternly up at the 
 sky as she reiterated the words. " I *m 
 o' the "Wesleyaus," slie continued, half 
 defiantly. 
 
 I 
 
,^.. 
 
 
 228 
 
 'li 
 
 Puget Sound. 
 
 [February, 1883. 
 
 " That is a very good religion," I re- 
 plied, in a conciliiitory voic(;. 
 
 " You bet it is ! " she exclaimed with 
 sudden vivacity, — " you bet it is! If 
 you do as they say, you '11 he all right." 
 
 When I bade her good-by, she sighed 
 heavily, and said, — 
 
 " Well, good-day to ye. I wish ye 
 luck, wh.ere 's' ever ye 're goiu'. I ex- 
 pect ye 've a deal o' [)leasure in yer life, 
 but it 's a hard world to coam through 
 before yer done with it;" aud with 
 a petulant, unsmiling uod she turned 
 away. 
 
 In Carbonado, another colliery vil- 
 lage on the Sound, thirty miles south of 
 Tacoma, we found the same grimy des- 
 olation as in Newcastle. Blackened 
 stumps, half-burnt logs, bowlders, piles 
 of waste rubbish, met one at every turn. 
 But there was an expression of cheer 
 and life in the place ; and huge play- 
 bills, all over tlie town, announcing an 
 entertainment by the " Carbonado 3Iin- 
 strel Club," gave evidence of an aston- 
 ishing knack at miithfulness under dif- 
 ficulties. The programme was a droll 
 one ; a first and second part, with or- 
 chestra overtures before and between, 
 a "conversationalist in the centre" — 
 whatever that may moan, — an "open- 
 ing chorus," a farce at the end, and 
 Professor John Brenner's string band, 
 to be " engaged for dancing after the 
 performance at reasonable rates." 
 
 " Shouting Extraordinary," by Char- 
 lie Poole, and a " comic song. Baby 's 
 got the Cramp, by Dan Davis," were 
 among the attractions of the second 
 part of the entertainment ; the price of 
 admission, fifty cents for adults and half 
 price for children. 
 
 We had run out from Tacoma to Car- 
 bonado on a special train. As we drew 
 near the station, I saw a girl, ten or 
 eleven years old, racing down the hill 
 at full speed, her sunbonnet flying off 
 her head. As we stepped out of our box 
 car, she looked ut us with supreme con- 
 tempt. 
 
 "Well, I did get fooled!" she ex- 
 claimed. " I thought you was the 
 mail ! " 
 
 Her curiosity ar^ to our errand in Car. 
 bonado was great, and took expression 
 in an exuberant hospitality. 
 
 " Why did n't you come up to see 
 us Friday ? " she said. " We 're going 
 to have a review in school Friday, and 
 spell down. We speller! down last Fri- 
 day, too." 
 
 " Did you beat the whole school ? " 
 I asked. 
 
 " No. Si Hopkins, he spelled the 
 word, — spelled me down. Teacher's 
 going to spell the vvliole school down 
 next time on a new word, — shoddish." 
 
 " Shoddish ! " I exclaimed. " There 
 is not any such word in the English 
 language." 
 
 "There is too!" she replied daunt- 
 lessly. " I 've got it written down, but 
 I can't learn it to save me. It's a 
 kind o' dance, or something o' that 
 sort." 
 
 " Oil ! Schottisch," I said. 
 
 "Yes, that 'sit," she nodded: "it's 
 the name of a dance. Tc^acher 's seen 
 it, she says. I know 1 '11 get spelled 
 down on it, though : it 's a real mean 
 word to spell. There ain't any sense 
 in it. I '11 take you up to the school, to 
 see teacher," she added eagerly. " Siie '11 
 be real glad to see you. She just let 
 me run down to the train when we 
 heard the whistle. We thouglit 't was 
 the mail. That 's Battle How,"' she 
 continued, pointing to a soi't of alley of 
 board shanties, evidently chiefly drink- 
 ing saloons. "There's a fight there 
 every day, most. We don't go down 
 there, any of us, if we can help it. I 'd 
 be ashamed to live anywhere near there. 
 It's just rightly named. My mother 
 says she 'd like to see it burned down 
 any night. We did like to all burn up 
 here, three weeks ago. Did you h^ar 
 about it? Well, it was just awful. We 
 had all the things out o' onr house ; aid 
 lots o' the neighbors did, too. The fire 
 
 ain't 
 
 there, 
 
 Thi 
 
 bhiel 
 
 let. 
 
 seeme 
 
 dange 
 
 as a 
 
 wher( 
 
^wn-ittoitiiiiO Ill I 
 
 I M iilii > I K I 
 
 ^^ A 
 
 [February, 
 
 id ! " she ex- 
 '011 was the 
 
 rriiiid in Car. 
 k expression 
 
 le up to see 
 
 We 're going 
 
 Friday, and 
 
 own last Fri- 
 
 ale sclioo] ? " 
 
 spelled the 
 Teacher 's 
 school down 
 -shoddish." 
 ed. " There 
 the English 
 
 plied daiint- 
 311 down, hilt 
 nie. It's a 
 tii'g o' that 
 
 1. 
 
 dded : " it 's 
 
 acher 's seen 
 
 get spelled 
 
 I real mean 
 t any sense 
 lie school, to 
 •ly. "She'll 
 5he jiist let 
 
 II when we 
 'light 't was 
 How,"' she 
 
 ; of Mlley of 
 ietly drink- 
 'ight there 
 t go down 
 ■Ip it. I'd 
 near there. 
 ^ly mother 
 nied down 
 dl hnrn up 
 ' yon h"ar 
 wful. We 
 ouse; md 
 The fire 
 
 1883.] 
 
 Pur/et Sound. 
 
 229 
 
 aiu't out yet. You can see it smoking 
 there, in the edge of the timber." 
 
 This, then, explained a part of the 
 blackened desolateness of the little ham- 
 le<. The wall of lir forests which had 
 seemed its protection had proved its dire 
 danger. A belt of charred trees, gaunt 
 as a forest of ebony masts, showed 
 where ilie fires had blazed along, and 
 couK! near sweeping away the village. 
 
 " It was well the wind went down 
 when it did," the little maid continued 
 sagely. "I expect if it hadn't, you 
 would n't have found any of us here. It 
 was just as hot's anything, all round; 
 an' you could n't get your breath." 
 
 Looking around, one realized the ter- 
 rible daiig<ir of forest lires in such a 
 sj)ot. The little village was walled on 
 three sid(;s by a forest of firs and cedars, 
 from one hundred to three hundred feet 
 high ; and we had come through miles 
 of such forests, so dense tlnit only a 
 few feet back from their outer edge 
 the shade became darkness impenetra- 
 ble by the eye. There is a sombre 
 splendor about these dark forests of 
 giant trees, which it would be hard to 
 analyze, and impossible to render by 
 any art. Language and color alike fall 
 short of expressing it. 
 
 The school was in a rouiih boarded 
 room which had been originally built 
 for a store. The hats, bonnets, books, 
 and slates wen; piled on the shelves, and 
 the ihiriy children sat on high benches, 
 their feet swinging clear of the lloor. 
 There was not a robust or healthy- 
 faced child in tlie room, and their thin, 
 })ah' che( ks were a sad conunentary on 
 the conditions of their Ii\es. Later in 
 the day, as I walked from home to 
 home, and saw everywhere slow-trick- 
 ling streams of filthy water, blue, iriiles- 
 cent, and foul odored, 1 wondered not 
 that the children were pale, but that 
 they were alive. The history class was 
 reciting a memorized list of *' epochs," 
 when I went in. They had them at 
 their tongues' ends. I suggested to the 
 
 teacher to asK them wliat the word 
 "epoch "mean; Blank dismay spread 
 over their faces. One girl alone made 
 answer. She was an Indian, or perhaps 
 half-breed, fourteen years of age ; the 
 healthiest child and the best scholar in 
 the school, the teacher said. '• The 
 time between," was her prompt defini- 
 tion of the word epoch, given with a 
 twinkle in her eye of evident amuse- 
 ment that the rest did not know what 
 it meant. The first class in reading, 
 then read from the Fourth In(lei»endent 
 Reader, in stentorian voices, Trow- 
 bridge's poem of The Wonderful Sack. 
 The effect of slight changes of a single 
 letter here and there was most ludicrous- 
 ly illustrated by one sturdy little chap's 
 delivery of the lines, 
 
 " His limbs wero strong, 
 His beard was long." 
 
 With loud and enthusiastic emphasis he 
 read them, 
 
 " His lambs were strong, 
 His bread was long." 
 
 Not a member of the class changed 
 countenance, or gave any sign of disa- 
 greeing with his interpretation of the 
 text ; and the teacher, being eng;iged in 
 herculean efforts to keep the poor little 
 primary bench still, failed to hear the 
 lines. 
 
 As soon as school was out, most of 
 the children went to work carrying wa- 
 ter. The only water in the village is 
 in a huge tank behind the engine-house. 
 From this each family nmst draw its 
 supply. It was sad to see children not 
 over six or seven years old lu!jr<:ing a 
 heavy |)ail of water in each hand. 
 
 '• I 've got all the wash-water to carry 
 this afternoon." said my little guide; 
 '' so I 've got to be excused from school. 
 jMy mother did n't wash to day, because 
 she wa'n't well. Most always we get 
 the wash-water Sundays." 
 
 '• You '11 be sure to <ro down the in- 
 clinc!, won't you," she added; " tliat 's 
 splendid. I 'd just like to go up an' 
 down iu that car all the time. It 'a 
 
■Y-MjifrMriiBia 
 
 ■M 1^ til II i< 1 
 
 230 
 
 Puget Sound. 
 
 [February, 
 
 the nicest thing here. I expect that 's 
 what you all came for, wa'n't it ? There 
 's lots o' folks come out from Tacoma 
 just to go down in it. There ain't 
 another like it in the whole country," 
 she added, with a superb complacence. 
 " You be sure an' go down, now.'-' 
 
 It was indeed a fine shoot down, on 
 a nearly perpendicular steel-railed track, 
 over a thousand feet, to the bed of the 
 river, on the banks of which are the 
 openings of the mines. Tlie coal is 
 drawn, and the miners go up a:id down 
 in cars, on tliis seemingly jierilous track. 
 There is no other way down. The river 
 is a glacial stream, and dashes along, 
 milky white, between its steep banks. 
 On the nai'row shore rims is a railway, 
 along which cars are drawn by mules, 
 from mine to mine, crossing the river 
 back and forth. In a distance of some 
 three or four miles, there are a dozen 
 galleries and shafts. The supply of coal 
 is supposed to be inexhaustible ; a most 
 convenient thiiig for the Central Pacific 
 Railroad, which owns it. 
 
 It was a weird ride at bottom of this 
 chasm : the upper edges lined thick with 
 firs and cedars ; the sides covered with 
 mosses and ferns and myriads of shrubs, 
 red columbines and white spirjeas, with 
 blossom plumes a foot and a half long, 
 — everything dripping and sparkling 
 with the river foam and the moisture 
 from innumerable springs in the rocks. 
 Bob, the handsome mule that drew us 
 over the road, deserves a line of history. 
 He has spent three years jogging up 
 and down this river bed. His skin 
 is like brown satin, and his eyes are 
 bright ; he knows more than any other 
 mule in the world the miners think. He 
 knows all their dinner pails by sight, 
 and can tell which pails have pie in 
 them. Pie is the only one of human 
 foods which Hob likes. Hide their din- 
 ner pails as they may, the miners cannot 
 keep pic away from Bob, if he is left 
 loose. "He '11 go through a row o' din- 
 ner pails in a jilfy, and jest clean out 
 
 every speck o' pie there is th6re ; an' he 
 won't touch another thing, sir," said his 
 driver with fond pride. 
 
 The Carbonado picture I shall remem- 
 ber longest is of a little five-year-old 
 mother ; just five, the oldest of four. 
 8he sat in a low rocking-chair, holding 
 her three months' old sister, looking 
 down into her face : cooing to her, 
 chucking her under the chin, laughing 
 with delight, and exulting at each re- 
 sponse the baby made. 
 
 " I caa't hardly get the baby out of 
 h(!r arras," said the mother. " She 's 
 always been that way, ever since she 
 was born. She takes care of all three 
 o' the others. I don't know what I 'd 
 ever ha' done without her. She don't 
 seem to want anything else, if she can 
 just get to hold the baby." 
 
 "Oh, look at her ! look at her ! " ex- 
 claimed the child, pointing to the baby's 
 face, over which a vague smile was Hit- 
 ting. " I just did so to her" (making a 
 little comic grimace), " and she lauglied 
 back ! She really did, just like we do." 
 
 After all, values in human life are 
 the same ; conditions make less differ- 
 ence than we think, and much of tli(! 
 pity we spend on Newcastles a;.d Car 
 bonados is wasted. I am not sure that I 
 have ever seen on any child's face such 
 a look of rapturous delight as on this 
 little »nother's ; and I make no doubt 
 that if we could have stayed to hear 
 Charlie Poole's Shouting Extraordina- 
 ry at the minstrel club's entertainment 
 we should have seen an audience as 
 heartily gay as any at the best show 
 Paris could offer. 
 
 Our last Puget Sound day wns made 
 memorable by the sight of a sunrise on 
 Mount Rainier. At quarter before four 
 o'clock the distant south horizon of Ta- 
 coma was shut out by walls of rose-col- 
 ored clouds. These presently opened, 
 floated off, and disclosed IMount Rainier, 
 its eastern slope rose red, its western 
 pale blue. One white cloud lingered at 
 tlie summit, blowing like a pennant, to 
 
 l\ic 
 
 
.,lt-w— ~A«" 
 
 [February, 
 
 th6re ; au' he 
 sir," said his 
 
 r shall remeio- 
 five-year-old 
 dest of four. 
 dvdir, holding 
 star, looking 
 oing to her, 
 liin, laugliing 
 ; at each re- 
 
 hab}' out of 
 ir. '' She 's 
 '^er since she 
 s of all three 
 j\v wliat I 'd 
 '. Slui don't 
 e, if she can 
 
 at her ! " ex- 
 to the baby's 
 mile was liit- 
 (making a 
 she laughed 
 like we do.'" 
 man life are 
 3 less differ- 
 much of th(! 
 es a;.d Car- 
 t sure that I 
 I's face such 
 t as on this 
 i-e no doubt 
 yed to hear 
 Extraordina- 
 itertainment 
 audience as 
 I best show 
 
 ,,e west, the to.oro«cha^g|;a-fl. 
 
 Streamed blowiy ^^^^ 
 
 again, a» "'« '^> » J,^ ,„„.g„s of 
 yellower; next, tl mx. 
 
 ?.''l--.°'^"t:t.tt lines 
 were eoi„...g by s^ . "^ , 
 
 were black »'. "'S*" ' , ''° „,.., then 
 water, lir^t s.lver.y, u, j > 
 
 great eolmnn o£ 1 gh> ^' ^^^^^ o„ 
 
 t"'-" !;:''"!: ie mountain turned 
 
 the instant, uu N% ;,, .vissive, as 
 
 e„„r, „.• the l-'^f ;_'-;„, Maimer 
 Tlu; Indian namt oi 
 
 ^., Tacoma: meaning, according to 
 was lacuiua ^^ nrrorduvTf to 
 
 .nmP " snow mountain ; accoruu „ ^^ 
 some,, snov ^^ ^^ ^^^^^ j^^^j, 
 
 others, " heart "^^ ' "[ .^^„^ ^he clum- 
 
 Kngh.h P^^^^ ^,,,,thy of the 
 
 ,dea, and a senti ^^^.^^^ j,^^-,,,, 
 
 TTirt^tme to abandon the 
 uature. It ^^ a ^ ^ ^^^ ^^ a 
 
 name. Retaining ^ tor th ^^_^^^^ 
 
 «mall atonement tor steauu„ 
 
 '"'""-'^•'"- .Sh.rt:rr:rs 
 
 "*'f:i;:\::« however worthy, 
 
 '°':'tK::::;^w::::n!:r,:;wn.any 
 
 spired by pottiy w moreover, 
 
 -"r""r;;i::re wwciUoon,wiu 
 
 re',ro/:r:c: that has died at our 
 hands. ^. ff. 
 
 ly wns made 
 a sunrise on 
 
 before four 
 •izon of Ta- 
 of rose-col- 
 tly opened, 
 Lint Rainier, 
 its western 
 
 lingered at 
 penuant, to 
 
 m i« j yiij y v wfH-n^-,