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BUCKINGHAM BROTHERS beg le^ve to draw -^^ the attention of ▲l.PZNII •F0UBI8TB to their I.XV1I8 and BBLTB, vhidt are univenally naed and approved oi by the XBKBBB8 of the AXPIflm CLITB. if « They are light in weight, of great strength and durability. 88 BBOAD STBBBT, BLOOMSBUBT, W.O. JAMES S. CARTER, BOOTIAOB, & TOTJBISTS' OITTEITTBE, 295 OXFORD STREET. LONDON. UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF THE ALPINE CLUB. niu$traUd JPriee U»t; oontaininff IHneimu for St^f-mtanunrntHt, totUffm. esi Aeoasr ie7 e. ' HILL'S LONDON-MADE ALPINE AXES. KTetjrpwtorthtHAJMlitMMbifliNlMlntMiiloat. Alway* 'n BtoA. Anjr P*tt«m mad* to arttor. CLinin mn aid stiou, loosi iteii raim. ».hiic rok mo BUMnr nut. TnuiH ud othar Liaar Bozaa, ri.AtKii, Oommhis, as. Ak aaoio BAaoita*sa« ^awMv. BTVAB AND OOOKINO APPABATUS OX' DIFnObaKT XlifS*. A Mvi,Ti<n;iiii or thihsi roR •voktms pvavdniW; HaoBAinoAX. o oirwMnrAjrcwi ahp hmw jmv twrgi , nrranvtoim. HILL & SON'S OtTTIimiaY ae SX1A.TB1 ^ff A.lSTTT^B'JLOTOR'Sr, 4 HATMARKBT, LONDON (opposite the Opera Hoiim). OATALOOirHS QJIATW. PiyM PBB OHNT. FOR CASH OB OODPOm Omw. Mol'Nll or r M n;inu'«l \\ iioiiL'd ill IVIiiy :i, woallicr.l Froinf aliovc-mj trraiulcstl V:iiu-()uv| tiiins, \vl] St. I'lliasl frost. (llijl'Ct \V( St. Kliasl (ir into a Mr. Dall' tiouthcrii Tho la inoiintain a series ii vortical Survey, It irt ' th( of t lie su The e( follows :- mainly c their sm (|\iartzit< the Sier l>lies i»a that the l»v analt * Hep for ISTl Actint;-a Vt)I-. I Ml IIIIIIMIISIWIIIWW **■ Moii/itiii/is (itifl Monntaiuetriii'/ in f/u J't/r ff'rsf, Wo Mountains and INIolntainkkuino i\ tiik Far Wkst — rontinitnl. IJy K. T. CoLK.MAN. MOrXT ST. KLIAS was first discovered on July 20, 1741 (old stylo), hy Hcritiji; ami his associates, who iiaiiicd it after St. Klias, the patron saint ol' the day. * It is ))roi)al)Ie that they saw, abctiit the same time, all the other hii!;h jx'aks of the adjacent rej^ion, thonj^h the fact is not men- tioned in the imperfect records existin<]j of the expedition. On I\Iay .'i, 177H, Captain .lames Cook, in search of a north-cast passa^'e, saw a beautiful i)eak which he namecl Mount Fair- weather.'* From the plates <fiven in Vancouver's ' Voyajics,' Sir Edward Belcher's' Voyajie of the .S'// //</////•,' and an illustration in the ahove-mentioned report, St. Klias woidd appear to he the LM-andest, as well as the loftie.-t, mountain on the coast. \'ancouver speaks of a 'still comiected chain of lofty moun- tains, whose sununits are hut the hase from whence Mount St. Flias towers, majestically conspicuous in rej^ions of eternal frost.' Sir Fdward IJelcher says: ' Fach ran<re is in itself an oliject worthy of the pencil, hut with the stupendous, proud St. Flias toweriiifi above all, they dwindled into more hillocks, or into a most splendid base on which to place his saintship,' Mr. Dall before (pioted says, ' j»re-eminent in jfrandeur is the southern face of the moinitain.' The latitude and hoifijht of St. ICIias and the other ])rincipal mountains in Alaska, as ;j;iven in the list, were determined by a series of very careful observations nuide with the sextant, vertical circle, and theodolite, by the United States Coast Survey, under the direction oi' Mr. W. II. Dall and assistants. It is ' the latest and most precise contribution to our knowledge of the subject.' The conclusion arrived at in the above-quoted Heport is as follows: — 'These Al|>sarc, like the hi;.fh Sierra of California, inaiidy com|»osed of crystalline rock, and in their topography, their small, pustular, basaltic vents, their associated marbles, quartzites, and later conj,domerates, exhibit a close piirallel to the Sierras; tl; ' paralh'lism in structure and composition im- plies parallelism in a<i.'e and method of formation ; and finally, that the volcanic orifrin of the high peaks is opposed not only by analogy, but by the known facts. A glance at the acconi- * Ht'iiort tin Mount St. lilias, from tlio ' U. S. Coast Smvey Heport f.ir IH7I.' Ai-piiiiliy, No. — printed July, l.S7:i. Hy W, 11. Dall, Actiiig-a.s.si.staiit V. S. ('. S. vol.. VUl.— NO. LIX. |.; K ■" II iini iiii . i i ii IW IHWWm m p w>-^ ■•*')^3;.t \ 380 Mountninx and Mnuntaineeriny in the Far H'est, panyinjT sketch ^vill loivl !U\vom', fivinlllar with the typos i.>l' mountain struetiiro, toward the conchision that tlicso peaks arc not of tiie voI{ d. ith icanic tyjie, ana, even witnout connrinator^ evidence, would load to the suspicion that thoy were composed of crystalline rocks.' ' After a thorouf^h search I have been able to find no trust- worthy account of any eruption, flrewingk, discussin}:; the same question, says, " Though St. Elias stands in the volcanic line of Tliamna, Nunwak,and St. Matthew's Island, neverthe- less we believe its volcanic nature may justly be doubted, since the absence of a crater or conical form, and its ragged crest, make it very probable that it has never been penetrated by a volcanic chimney." ' ]\I()iiuts Cook (ind Vancouver, which are eastward of St. Elias and in the same ridge, were without distinct appellations. They were named in honour of those distinguisl-.ed navigators, by the authority of the Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey. Mount Crillon was named by the celebrated La Perousc after the French Minister of Marine. It is scarcely necessary to state that neitiier Mount St. Elias, nor any of the other groat peaks, in Alaska, have been ascended. Mount Brown, and a little to the south-cast Mount Hooker, are in the Kooky Mountain chain, and have never been ascended. They were discovered about the year 1834 by David Douglas, the celebrated botanist, during one of his earlier journeys, in crossing the mountains with the Hudson liay Company traders. lie named Mount lirown after Robert Brown, Director of the Hotanictil Department of the ]iritish IMuseum, and Mount Hooker after Sir AVilliam Hooker, Director of Kew Gardens. According to liobert Groenhow,* Mr. Thompson, tlie astronomer of the Hudson Bay Company, measured these peaks among others, and estimated Mount Jirown at 16,000 feet and Mount Hooker at 15,700 feet above the ocean level. Humboldt says they ' are cited by Jolinson as lofty old volcanic trachytic mountains under latitude 54;^^°, and longitude 1 1 7° 40' and 1 1 9" 40'. They arc therefore remarkable as being more than .'}()0 geographical miles from the coast.' Previous to the year 1858 tlie only pass across the Kooky * ' Monioir, ITisforioal and Political, on tlio Nortli-wc^t Coast of North Amorica aiid tlio Adjacent Territories.' Wy Koliort (Ircenhow, Traiialatur and Librarian to the Dciiarlnicnt of Siato, 1810. i MoiintaiiH between A Hoat Eiica for horses. Mount 1 Ward's An first disci )V( who in his says that it precipitous mountain t made of Kootanio P above that average all above the s of altitudes ance of uui ever, their s deceiving, a ment I alwa Mount li the British first explore Joseph Bak or White I; feet, is from Lawpon, of barometer I informed m( an ofticer of the more coi that the he standard of snow and gl tain. For, lower than i of glacier o determined above the f the coast go mountain of as nnich ice Owinji t( Mount Bak( 11 mtmmmmmm mmm ^MMUlkLM. Mi>untiiiii.< tinil Miniiitdiiii'i'riiiy in the hitr H)st. :\H'i being Mountains known io hv. within IJritish territory was ono hctwcon Mount Hrown iind Mount Hooker, known as tlie IJoat Encanipuient, in latitude 54" 10', but it was impassable for horses. iMoitiif iMitrrhison i.s not marked in Colton's orJoimsnn and Ward's American Athises, only on the latest ma[»s. It was first discovered on September 18, iKoH, by Captain Palliser, who in his Keport of Exploration in Ilritish North America says that it occupies a central jiosition amonnj other hij^li and precipitous mountains. ' The Indians say tliis is the hifjliest mountain they know of, and, if a roufrh triangulation that I made of what 1 supposed to be the same ])cak from the Kootanie Plain is to be trusted, it must be H,()()() to 9,000 feet above that ])oiiit, or l.'l,()0()to 14,000 feet almve the sea. The avera<^e altitude of the mountains is 11,000 to 12,000 feet al)ove the sea, and I do not place much reliance on estimates of altitudes {greater than that, as there is a striking api)ear- ancc of uniformity in the altitude of the mountains. How- ever, their shape, always partaking of a craggy nature, is very deceiving, and whenever 1 have been able to get any measure- ment I always found that I had underrated the true height.' Mount liaker, fourteen miles south of the boundary line of the British possessions. It was S(»'namctl by Vancouver, who first explored these coasts, in compliment to his third lieutenant .Joseph Baker, who discovered it. its Indian name is Tukullum, or White Stone. The height given in the list, viz., 10,81 4 feet, is from a trigonometrical measurement made by Captain Lawson, of the United States Coast Survey. By aneroid barometer I found it to be 10,69,3 feet; but as Captain Lawson informed me that his instruments were very fine, and as he is anofHcer of high scientific attainments, pcrliaps his estimate is the more correct of the two. It will be as well to remark here that the heights of these peaks, as given, do not furnish a standard of their height according to Alpine estimates of the snow and glacier travel to be got through in ascending a moun- tain. For, owing to the higher latitude, the snow line is much lower than in the Alps, conseipiently there is a greater amount of glacier or snow to be travelled over, as before hinted. I determined the snow line on Mount Baker to be t^,\li} feet above the sea by aneroid barometer, but consider that for the coast generally it may be taken at fi.OOO feet. So that a mountain of 11,000 feet in height on the Pacific slope alfords as nnich ice and snow work as one of i;5,00() feet in the Alps. Owing t( the extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere. Mount Baker can be plaiidy made out from the neighbourhood R R 2 itj,i;r7i I •«'/' BOP ■^'' ' - ■ '■■■ -■■■'■ iiMMMMM wmmmmmmtmm 3S8 Miiuhtniiis >/iiii Minnttiiiiicrring in the Far Wist. i'f Victoria. Vanf^ouvcr Island, a distanro of nearly eighty niilca ill an air line, and on its soutli-nostorn sl')j)e enormous snow- licld.- arc .«con to e.'ctcnd very low down the numntain. It wai- firet ajTonded in August \HC)H, by a party wliieh I or;.Miii«e<l, fon.«i-itincr of Mr. Thomas Stratton, Inspector of Custom'; at Port Townsend, Pnjjct Sound, Washington Terri- tory : Mr., now the Hon., tFohn TeniK'nt, now or late nicinher of tlif Lc;ri-Iative Assemhly for Wasliinifton Territory ; Mr. David Oirilvv, of Victoria; and nivself. I described the journey in ' Har]>or's Mafj^azinc ' for November ISfiU, under the title ' Mmintaincering on the Pacific,' and the iMain facta were rejmj<liirfd in the ' Alpine Journal ' for ^lay 1872. In the latter part of October, 1S04, an carthqn.akc shook the coast, when an immenso jmrtion of the summit, estimated to be l,(t(M» <ir l..-/(H» ffot, fell in, so that the appearance of the peak was (leci iedly altered as seen from Victoria, Vancouver Island, it Ix-injj no longer conical and sharp, but truncated. A ven* interesting ascent might be made on the south- eastern side, taking the course of the river Skagit, my ascent having been made by the river Lumini, or Nootsac, on the pouth-westem side. A party following the route I propose would probably pass by the volcano and have an opportunity of examining the crater, without deviating from their track. The ascent might be made by the Frontin Glacier (mentioned in ' Ilarj^r V Magazine' before (juoted) to the foot of the peak, on the opposite side to the point Avhere we rested and tnok refreshment. Then following that side, and passing by the rim of the crater up to the summit, which I imagine, from a slight depression that I noticed in the wall of i<'e which flanks it. to be accessible at this point. The starting point for the journey would be the Utsalada sawmills, where In- dians an<l supplies could bo had. From Utsalada to the mouth of the Skagit is only six miles. From the mouth of the river to IJaker's River, which heads in the mountain, and is probably fe<l by the Frontin Glacier, if it docs not have its origin in that, is from forty to fifty miles. The length of Baker's liiver is al>out twenty miles. It is, however, necessary to state that there arc greater difficulties by this than by the Lummi or X out sac route. First there is or was a formidable 'jam ' about six miles up the Skagit caused by drift lumber, blocking up the river at a point where there is a bend. So that on the occasion of my first attempt, the canoes, which were very heavy, hatl to be dragged across three portages, one of them perhaps a furlong in length, through swarms of mosquitoes, whoso attacks are an much dreaded by travellers as an encounter with t!i( of Hake very su would , flat and I navigati zest of i true mo to the S as an difiicult United every fa Some Baker, i j)i'nded A n /. observci I rentlyfr ^ to twent maps as i i is given in asceni Kear-Ai jtronounc I on the SI ' can be s Vancouv air ( line, ; * Lists rior, Unit Iliiyiloii, I t Hum liciglit ' is nu'iit of H miles, puji C(iiuii to (J 'J'ciuTiHb L'iH miles, wliicii is ] was (li'stit mill's. 'I' of lii^h liii tivc'ly (SL'ci biii lit. ^lountuins nnd Mouutnimcriiitj in t/ic Ftir Ihst. 3S9 i^lity niiloa mis snow- II. )' wliich I .spector of tDii Tcrri- c incmhor tory ; Mr. •ribed the 6!), under i»ain facts 1872. In shook the ited to he r the peak Vancouver ncatcd. the south- iny ascent ac, on the I propose |)portunity leir track. mentioned )ot of the rested and l)ussing by t^ine, from ice whidi mg point where In- le mouth til of the in, and is have its of Baker s ry to state le Lummi hie ' jfim' blocking hat on the ry heavy, 1 perhaps es, whose encounter I with t!ic <j;ri/.zly hear. 'J'hc second difficuHy is the navigation of Hakcr's Kiver, wliicli is reported to be full of boulders, and very swiit and turbulent. The chinook or salt-water canoes would have to be exchanged at the mouth of iJaker's Itiver for flat and sninller canoes, termed 'shovel-nosed,' suitable for navigating shallow streams. 15ut dilhculties only enhance the zest of an undertaking, and give a spice to it in tlie eyes of a true mountaineer. It would be advisable to ])roffer a rcfpiest to the Superintendent of Indian Affiiirs at Olympia for Indians, as an otHcial sanction to an expedition smooths away any ditticulties that may arise connected with stranger tribes. The United States officials are very courteous, and ready to afford every facility to those engaged in ex[)loring the country. Some notes by Dr. Mrown on the geology and llura of .Mount Baker, as illustrated by specimens wdiich I sent him, are ap- pended to the end of this article. An iiiiliiioirn iiioiiiifdiii, mentioned in the list. This I observed when on Mount Baker. It is a solitary jieak, appa- rently from 8,000 to y,000 feet in height, and distant from fifteen to twenty miles to the south-east. It is not marked on the niaj)s as a sei)arate mountain, though a spur of t!ie Cascade range is given in that direction. From the cursory view I obtained in ascending Moinit Baker it a])peared to be isolated. Mount li((iniir was named by Vancouver after his friiMul Kear-Admiral Rainier. The Indian name of this mountain is generally given as Tacoma, but a tribe on the Cowlitz Pass j)ronounces it Tah-ho-ma. According to the latest auth(trity on the subject, it is 14,444 feet above the sea-level.* As it can be seen from the neighbourhood of Beacon Hill, Victoria, Vanconver Island, a distance of upwards of 140 miles on an air line, its height must be great. t The general form ol' the (* Lists of Elevations, &c., pubiislicd by tlie Department of the Inte- rior, United States Gedlngicai Survey of the Territrries, under F. V. Ilayden, U.S. (icoloj^nst, in eliarpe. f Ilmnholdt, speaking' of the Peak of Tenoriflt', says that if the lieight 'is 12,182 I'uut, as iiiditated by tlie last trigonoint'tiical nieasure- nieiit of Horila, its sunnnit oiiglit to ho visible at the distance of MS miles, sujipiisiiig tlie eye at tin; level of the ocean, and the refraction e(|ual to U,07'.l of the distance.' He further says that 'the Peak of 'J'eiierillc lias often been observed at the distanci! of 121, l.'n,aiid e\iu i;i8 miles, and tlio siiniinit of Mowna-Koa, in the Sandwich Islands, which is ])i()bably 10, (KK) feet high, lias been seen at a period when it was desliinte tif snow, skirting llie liorizini, from a distance of 1.^3 miles. Tliis is the nuist siriking e\ani|ile yet, kiiDwn of the visiliiliiy . of high land, ami is the more remarkable that the object was lU'gu- \ tively seen.' wmmmimm ««ta 390 Mountains iiu t Mniihtulmt rliKj in the Fur West. mountain is that of a jjreat pyi'amid. The summit consists of a central ])cak, flanked by two h)wer and smaller ones, both as nearly as possible of the same size and shape. Mr. A. I). Kichardson, the well-known correspondent of the ' New York Tribime ' in former years, speakinj; of the scenerj' of I'ligct Sound, says : ' Some of the boldest mountains of tiie continent are here visible — IJaker, Adams, St. Helens, and, more than any or all others, Blount Kainier, triple-jminted and robed in snow. Shasta is grand; Hood is grander; but, from this stand-point, Kainier is monarch of all — the Mont Blanc of thid coast.' * It is distant about sevei.ty-fivo miles from the shores of Puget Sound, and may be ajtproached either from Steilacoom or Olympia. In 18G9 I proposed to (xenoral Stevens of Olympia, formerly of the United States army, to attempt the ascent of this mountain. He was un- able to go with me, but next year announced his willing- ness to undertake the journey. Mr. Van Trump, also of Olympia, joined us, but an accident which befel me when near the base of the mountain ])revented )ny attempting the ascent, which (leneral Stevens and Mr. Vuii Trump success- fully accomj)lished, being the first on record. The base of the mountain is at least six days' journey from Olympia, the capital of Washington Territory. For the first thirty miles there is a good waggon road. The remainder of the journey is by a trail cut throu";h the forests and leadin<j to the Cowlitz Pass. It was originally made several years before my visit by two settlers, for the ])ur]tose of prospecting on the mountain, but has hardly ever been used since, so that at the tinie of our iouincy it was overgrown, and in many parts difficult to trace. ^\ e were, however, fortunate in being accompanied by Mr. Longmire, one of the settlers above alluded to. The general course of the journey folhws the Nis(jually liiver, which heads in a glacier on the south-western side of the mountain, the same which was examined by Lieutenant, now General, A. V. Kautz, as mentioned in the first article. General Stevens informed me that tliey did not meet with any s])ecial difficulties on their route for abcait the first five miles, or two-thirds of the way, being a gentle slope. IJut the latter portion is steep. They were just lOj hrs. in making the ascent, during all which time, being in excellent training, they worked hard, and Avcre not obliged to retrace a single step. The aspect of the summit has been already described in the first article. Mount St. Helens was named by Vancouver after His * 'Our New States .•mil Terrilorlfs.' iiiHi 'est. lit consists allcr ones, lape. Mr. [■ the ' New sconeiy of siins of" the ck'iis, iuul, j)lc-j)ointe(l iTuler ; but, -the Mont I'-fivo miles approached ])r(ipt>scd to lited States Ic Avas un- lis willing- np, also of 1 nie Avhon m])ting the np success- base of the , thecaintal es there is a iiey is by a )wlitz l*ass. isit by two )untaiii, but inie of our lilt to trace, licil by Mr. riic jxcneral lich heads in, the same L. V. Kautz, n formed mc 1 their route ay, being a ey were just ic, being in t obliged to it has been r after His i MoHutdins and Mouittainccrinij In tlir I'dr Hfst. .'391 Ibitannic Majesty's Auibassador to th. Court of Madrid. C'oininodore Wilkes, U. S.N. , estimated it to b(! !),.■> 50 feet above the ocean, and says that it ' may be seen fr<»m the sea when eighty miles distant.' * It is the only instance of the dome- shaped iormation on the coast. Its smooth and sperieal form, undi^figured by rocks or sears, captivates the eye. Ihnnboldt's notice of it lias been given in the first article on this subject, when treating of the volcanic activity of these mountaiii.j. Mr. Thomas .F. Dryer of Portland, formerly editor of ' The Weekly Oregonian,' who first made the ascent of Mount Hood, Avas the first to ascend this mountain in the year 18,10. 'le j)ublished an account of it in the above mentioned journii!. Some notion of the difficulties attendant upon mountaineering ill these new (rouniiies may he formed fruni the fact that u ])arty whi- h started a few years since from Portland, fi»- the ascent of Mount St. Helens, never even reached its base, and v.as obliged to return after an absence of about a fortnight, its time being limited. Mount Adinns is nearly due east of iVIount St. Helens. It was named after John Q"'"ccy Adams. Little or nothing is known res|)ecting this mountain. 1 believe that it lias never been ascended. Professor Whitney, in the pajter before quoted, states that Mount Adams, the next high point north ol' Mount Hood, was measured by Dr. Vansant, U.S.A., tri- goiioinctrically at 13,258 feet. Dr. Brown sets down this mountain at about !J,000 feet. Mount Hood, — A careful measurement of the height of this ])('ak was made by Lieutenant-Colonel Williamson, of the U.S. Topograjiliical Engineers. His instruments consisted of cistern barometers, graduated so as to read to the l-2v)00th of an inch, and wet and dry thermometers easily reading to the 10th degree. At the summit, the barometer estimated for a temperature of .'{2° Fahrenheit stood at iy"!)4l inches. Making the necessary computation, the height was found to be 11,22,) feet.f It is the most conspicuous peak the traveller sees on his journey up the Columliia Iviver, and is remaik- alile lor its symmetry ; consequently, it is a favourite subject witii artists. It was first ascended by Mr. Thomas .7. Dryer, before mentioned, and W. Lake, in August, 18,')4. Humlvildt's stateineiit that it was ascended by ' Lake, Travaillot, and Heller ' is wrong as regards the two latter, and wnmg as * ' Voya.L'f KouihI tlic Wurld.' t ' Hcieiitiric Aiuerieiui,' JiiMUury 18, 1.SG8. 392 Mountiiin-f and Man- 1 liiireri/ii/ in titc Far West. regards the omission of IMr. Dryer's name. Captain Tra- Viiillot, ^lajor Ilaller (not Heller), and Judge Olney, started with Messrs. Dryer and Lake, hut had to turn hack, all three of thoin hoing taken ill at an elevation of 7U|°, as marked hy the theodolite. As hcfore stated, Mr. Dryer wrote an account of his journey in the ' Oregonian,' a file of which is kept at the otHce in Portland. In the first article I have given some data as to its volcanic character. I joined a party for the ascent, but we were foiled at the foot of the peak hy bad weather, and had not sufficient j)rovision8 to enable us to make another attempt. The mountain is near to Portland, being not more than sixty miles distant hy a good waggon road, and the country settled U]) to within fifteen or twenty miles of its base. In consequence, and owing as well to the absence of difficulties, it has been often ascended. Tlie only obstacle is a bergschrund at the foot of the ])eak, estimated by different travellers to be from 5(30 to 7<l() feet below the summit. But it is only occasionally that any trouble is experienced. It can generally be jumped over, or crfisscd by a snow bridge. I know of an instance where a j)arty, being unprovided with an axe for cutting steps after crossing the crevasse, actually had to turn back. It was for a long time believed that there were not any glaciers, n^ there are none on the side always ascended, 'ibis was doubtless owing to the ignorance of travellers, as, once on the sunnnit, glaciers ought t(» have been noticed by any experienced ol)servcr. JJut in the year )H7(), Air. Arnold Hague, Assistant Geologist in the U. H. Geological Exploration of the 4()th parallel, accompanied by Mr. A. D. Wilson, Topograjjlier of the survey, vi-ited .Mount Hood under the instructions of Mr. Clarence King mentioned in the first article, for the jiurpose of examining the geological and litholojiicjil character of the extinct volcano. ' The summit of Mount Hood exposes on the east, north, and lorth-wcst sides a bold, precipitous, jagged mass of rock, wliii.h forms the outer wall of the olil crater, encir- cling it fur three-fifths of the circumference. The ren)aining jMirtion of the wall is wanting, the other two-fifths presenting a compaiativcly easy slope down to the timber-cuvered ridges l)elow. The crater is nearly half a mile wide from east to west. The wall \ipon the inner side rises above the snow and ice, filling the biisin smne ~\M feet, while upon the outer side it falls (ill' abruptly for 2,0(10 ieet. 'I'liis rim of the crater is very narrow ; in many places the crest is not more than two feet wide. Three di>linet glaciers have their origin in this basin, each the source of a stream of considerable size; the glaciers of the White I extends of a mil ing 500 the mou siderabl they ar( rreologic vicinity which e cutting old vole AVith Whitne mountai Mount range, me. C high as JSlou) J'ca/i, a ])eaks name present seen fn settler the mot It is (l( says th cone, a ing to \ of Lak( spelt V the stai near it; long ( deserv* ing to before • T t '^^ Nortli vol, ii. jti^ ■m 'est. Mountains and MountainecriiHi in the Fur IVcst. 393 tain Tra- ?y, started ;, all three larked by 111 account is kept at ivcn some ty for tlie k by bad blc us to than sixty try settled nsequencc, been often the foot of (.in 500 to inally that iiped over, ce wliere a ?teps after : was for a •s, as there I doubtless lie summit, xpeiiciiced ;, Assistant if the 40tii if;ra})her of ons (»f Mr. jiurpose of I lie extinct II the east, ^jjed mass iter, eiicir- reinaiiiing pres(iitin<( ■red ritlges )iii ea.>»t to > snow and liter side it iter is very 11 two feet this basin, he jrhuMCI'S of the White, the Sandy and Little Sandy Rivers. The White Kiver glacier heads on the eastern side of the crater, and extends in a south-easterly direction. It is nearly a quarter of a mile wide at the head, and about two miles loii^f , extend- in<r 500 feet below the line of timber growth ii[)on the sides of the mountain The glacier of Sandy Kiver is ccm- siderably broader than the glacier of White Kiver. In length they are about equal One of the most marked geological and topographical features of Mount Hood and the vicinity is its very extensive system of extinct glaciers, which everyAvhere gouged out immense trough-shaped valleys, cutting down deeply into the earlier trachytic lava flows of the old volcano.' * With reference to these last described peaks. Professor AVhitney says: 'Dr. J. G. Cooper, who is familiar with the mountains of Oregon and Washingtcm Territory, considers Mount Hood not as high as some other peaks of the same range. Other experienced observers have stated the same to me. On the whole I conclude that jNIount Hood is not as high as Mount Shasta, Kainier, or Adams.' f Mount Jefferson, The Tliree Sisters, Diamond Peak, Seott's J'ea/i, and Mount Pit. — It is doubtful whether any of these ]»caks have l)eeii ascended. Mount .Fefferson received that name from Lewis and Clarke in 1805. The Three Sisters j)rescnt three j)yramidal jieaks, all nearly of the same height as seen from Mount Hood. Diamond Peak is so called from a settler of that name, who, being chased by tlic Indians took to the mountain, and lay concealed tlicre for two or three days. It is doubtful wlieth"rhe ascended to the summit. Dr. Hrowii says that ' Mount Scott presents the appearnncc of a truncated cone, and is, doubtless, likewise an extinct volcano,' Accord- ing to the same authority. Mount Pit, whicli is a little to the west of Lake Tliimat, * has never been ascended. The name is often spelt Pitt, but erroneously, the title being derived, not from the statesman, but from the number ol" pits dug by the Indians near its base. Its other name is derived from Dr. M'Laughlin, long (iovernor of the ILnlsoii I>ay ('ompany, and a iiaiiie deservedly held in deej) veiun'ation in the north-west.' Accortl- ing to HiimboUh its height is 9,548 feet. Kobert CJrecMhow, before mentioned, says that * Mount Madis<iii is the Mount • Tlie ' Knfnnccringiiml Mining JoiiniHl,' Now York, ^bireli 7, 1H7I. I ' Wliidi is the IligliL'st Momitain in tiio IJnit.eii States, and which in N'irtli Ami'i'icii ." — ' I'mcccdiiigsot'tlic ("aliliiriiiii Academy oCSi'iL'ni'os,' vol. ii. l.S.^.S-tL'. Sail Francisco, l«(i;5. 394 Mountains and Mountaineeriuy in the Far fTcst. INIat'laughlin of the lliitish maps,' and tliat ' Mount Jackson is a stupendous pinnacle under the parallel of 41° 40' called by the British Mount Pitt.' It has been reported to nic that there is a very higli and pre- cipitous wall of rock round the suniniit of IMount .Jefferson, so that it is a}>i)arently impracticable, but it is improbable that this extends entirely rouiui the peak. The Three Sisters is said to be a very steep mountain. Mount S/iu.sta. — Professor Whitney, in the paper before quoted, says that there is no vinecrtainty rc(rardin<^ the height of this mountain, for ' a careful series of barometrical obser- vations by the State Geological Corps in September 1862, fixed it at 14,440 feet.' lliere are not any glaciers on the south side. Here the ascent is very easy, there is a good track, and it can be followed all the Avay up to the sunnnit on a mule's back. In early September, 1870, iMr. Clarence King with a small detachment of the U.S. (jieological Exploration of the40th parallel, acting under the orders of Major-General Hum- phreys, visited this mountain. On September II tiiey climbed to the top of the lesser Shasta, a conical secondary crater jutting out from the main mass of the mountain on its north-west side. ' In the afternoon, at about half-past 1 o'clock, we reached the rim of the cone, anil looked down into a deep gorge lying between the secondary crater and tlie main mass of Shasta, and saw directly beneath us a fine glacier, which started almost at the very crest of the main mountain, flowing towards us and curving around tlie circular ba^e of our cone. Its entire length in view was not less than three miles, its width oj)positeour station about 4,000 feet, the surface here and there terribly broken in 'cascades,' and presenting alltiie characteristic features of similar y-laciers elsewhere. Tiie rcifion of tlie terminal moraine was more extemlcd than in the Alps.' The foHow- iiig morning they ascciKk'd to the extreme summit. ' From the crest I walked out to the northern edge of a prominent s]nir, and looked down upon the system of tiiree considerable glaciers, the largest about four and a-lialf miles in length, and two to three miles wide.'* ConcliiKlon. — This concludes all the information which I iiave been able to gather respecting the mountains of the I'acific slope, a region which, though vast in itself, forms but a section of the great Aiiieiican continent, and has as yet been but little explored. While it oilers a large and fertile held to the nnin of science, it possesses peculiar opportunities for those * ' Kiigiia'ciiiig iiiiil Milling .Journal,' of Nuw York, Marcli 7, lfS71. trails, liiiiiik m 'Ix — »" «'>" m •mmmmm mm St. aoksnii is called by 1 and pre- Ifi-son, so able that ISitsters ia before he height !al obser- )er 1862, ;i's on the s a good iinnuit on nee Kinir oration of ;ral Iluin- y climbed er jutting west side, ehed the rge lying f Shasta, :ed almost (Is us and ire length posite our [! terribly c features terminal le follow- ' From romincnt isiderablo iigtli, and which 1 s of the onus but yet been e held to for those li 7, 1S7J. Mountains ami Mountuiiu'ci imj in the Far Went. 395 pursuits, which are entered into with so keen a zest by many ^ of the members of the Alpine Club. '■h NotcH l)y Dr. Ifobort Brown, M.A., F.K.ii.S., rii.D., F.L.S., latn '; Prosiilciit of the lioyiil J'liysicul Hociety, Kdiiilmigli, mi siiucinioiis of . rocks iiiid plants colloctcd on Mount Baker by tho author oi the fore- going article. Gkology.* 1. 'From Eiver Bottoms, twenty and fifty miles from the summit, ; according to route travelled, of cour.sc less as the crow Hies.' Various rolled fragment of vesicular lavas of recent origin. One or two specimens of tuliis, apparently of red vokiuiic ash, tliongli of an old date, as the specimens an.' con.solidated, and in the intcr.^tices are , various minerals, cliieily apatites, &c. There are also two bits of traj>, I the variety ' dolerite ' ])eing tlie j)rincipal form. The other specimen is a bit of crystalline limestone or marble, of a yellowish white colour. ]\birblc is connnon in various parts of the neighliourlng country. 2. ' From the mountain aljove tho snow-lino, between 7,300 leet and the sMunnit.' Abiss of very recent volcanic ash, only partly consolidated, undis- tinguishalile Irom some Irom Vesuvius of last year's eruption ; slaggy scoriie of conunon volcanic type ; dark lava, not very vesicular, and of an ancient date ; various tufas, one almost iuenlicid with the beds on either siile of the stairs leading from Waterloo I'lacc uji tlie Carlton Hill, at Kdinhurgli, and wliicli Maclanii ('(leology of File ami the Lotlii.'uis,' p. (lit) di'sigiiated hy tlio now rather vague name of porphyry.' The whole of this set shows clearly the occurrence of repeated t'rup- tions of the mountain, witii the UHual accompaniments of lava, ashes, &c., the oldei' lavas appro;u'liing in a]ipearanc(! some ol'lhe more recent tra]is, such as those of Disco Island, in Greenland ; the newer ones, or tuliis, slightly varied, being one and all of the usual type foinid in the vicinity of volcanic cones. .'i. ' From sleeping-place, Bennett and self, 9,2()."t fiet,' This iippears to be a calcareous deposit from sonio hot spriiig. Were there any signs of sueli springs in the vicinity ? It is of ,i I'liaracter not uncommon in .soiuc! parts of the world, but is very loose and crumbling. 1. ' l.ava older than ours. Dr. Comrie.' A Mack lava full of vesicular cavities, wealher-worn, but not aniyg- tlaloid ; identical with specimen 1 have from Icelaiul. • ). ' From a thin vein of sandstone close to the lu've.' The only thing 1 can .see remaikahle about it is a little bit of lava in * Dr. liiwvn, in h IcKit to tim iniilmr rcfciTiiig In tho sin'cimcns. Biiyn, 'They iiro very intcrc.'jiiiig itti KJiDwnig lliu llinri)u;^iily voK'iniic cliiiniclii- of tliu luuuti* tain.' 396 Mountains rind Mountaineering in the Far West. the sandstone. Was not a trap (l3'ke in the vicinity ? or does not this ' thin vein ' owe its consoUdation to the ovcrpouring of the iava- strcani upon it ? n. ' Mud from self and Bennett's sloeping-place. Same formation as that preceding, from summit, 9,"JG,") feet alwive sea-level.' Old tufii, witli a whitening calcareous deposit, apparently from the same spring as that referred to in No. .'5. 7. ' From the mountain above the snow-line.' It seems a mass of white siliceous sinter from a hot spring, such as arc common in Iceland and other volcanic countries. 8. ' From highest exposed rocks, near tlic summit.' Old volcanic tufa, with crystals of augite. 9. ' First day's descent.' A hit of lava, with a thin coating of sulphur on it. 10. 'From summit of highest point of visible rock, rolled down from cornice while making step. Picked up while rolling down.' Limestone. Tiiongh it looks as if it had been comiiaratively recently dejiosiled from some calcareous spring. Was there a stratum or bed of it? 11. ' Outside shell of extinct crater next the peak on that side, 7,300 feet. A kind of conglomerate.' It is a dull compact felspathic lava or greenstone (trap). Flora.* Saxifragn •opathuli/olin. Common everywhere. iS i.'-ifnuia (hdianii. Swamps at 1,<HI() teet. Sa.rifraga stilUtris (?) (Jn ridge leading to fourth day above Ptar- migan. fSd.i-ifrnijn tn'tlcntntd. A true Aljiine. J'nli/jiin/iiim j)lii(/iijitcris. A coninion fern in all temperate countries. J'o/i/jHiiliiim Dri/iijitirif. iMiich the same iilaccs as J'. ])lu'</<>jitcris. Adidiitiim judaliini. A very beautiful Maiden's Hair iern. Low down ; conuuon at all altididcs. CenitiicliliKi lin'vian'f:t<ilii. \ grass. Kpiliibiiim iingiislijoliinn. Willow herb. Cieniiiiitiii ('/(cvVum. Gentia CEiidll Sciicci //ieriii hitlm J'hinii ().ri/rl( Ml ii:l to C,()it(i Mimid )t Covjjd Ariiict Trienii JJoS((r Lupin Ptarmigi Arclos En/tIn Cniiipi J'l/roli The m The pi Bented b) The tr a twig, b There with a bi ^ iilla. O ! rently M As toi i but a m!! i Still I hi mountaii I.. Li/ali * Note by I'r. Hrowii : - ' I ciicIdsc ycin ii few iintow (in yimr iMciiiMt baker ]iliintH. I iiin sorrvllmt tliryurc so iiii'iuiipli'lii, Imt iiiiuiy of the iiliiiils wcrr in ii ooiiditiuM wliii'li niiiliTucl it nil Imt iinpos.sil.lii to tnako it llu^ s|ioi'ifs, willicnit I'Dtii- j>nrisoii with niitluiilii' lirrljjiriuiii Kiicciiiicn.s, luid even tlicii with (liHiciilly. Suiiiu (if liio loLMlit ics M cm cirioiis for the Hporics, but lis 1 Imvo uothilig siive tlio liiljcls to po on, I run simply lake llitiii as tlwy are piveri.' Not I' !.y the aiitlior : — ' 111 aiiilii ion to tlie nliove, Mr. .bilin beiini'lt (wlio formeil fine ot'tlu! jiiirty on llio tir.<t iillempi to cliinli tlie mounlaiiO elaiiiieil lo have been tin; tirhl to iliseover tlic trtte Seolcli heatln^r witliin tile liinils of tlie rnileil "tates. He wrote an necount of it, ami hent a speiMiiun to (iiie of llic learned soeietieHof New ^'ork ; tlioii),'li. a.- lir. I'lrowii always (imls llie ^peeilnells lalielled " heather" to be a Miiuimi'i, eoii.'-ideralile dmibl '\n thrown on the "ilisoovery."' AscF.j; our nun Wiener highest- city of I'l'iitlam howcvei ■i^ jn-sf. Alpine Notes, 397 does not tliis of the lava- I formation as ntlj' from tlie •ring, such as 1 down from I.' I'ely recently atuni or bed t side, 7,300 above Ptar- countries. <il<)j>t('vis. ibni. Low llentiaiin. Swampy places. Q'^nothera biennis. Open sunny places. ,, vinosd. Senccio mtrcns (?) lliernciinii Scoulcii, Liitltiva{!) Phkitm (!) 0.ri/ri(i{!) Miiuicgin cmpetriformis. Always marked as 'heather;' from 5,000 I to G,()(i(l feet. Miinulus liiteus. IMonkcy flower. ,, iiioschalU'f. Cori/tlalis Scoiileri. 3,000 ft., forest, deep shade. A rnira wnplexicaulis. Tricntnlis Eitrtipivd. Ilusarkid J'lirsliidiin (?) On ridge loa<ling to second day. Lnpinus sericens. On ridge leading to fuurih day's camp above Ptarmigan. Arclost(iphi/lus uva-vrsi. ,, ,, ^^ f, Kvjithronium (/r<inilljU>rum. Caiitpnnuht linijhlia. J'j/mlii cUiptica. The moss without fruit was a ITi/pnnm apparently. The plant found at the highe.st point on the mou'icain is only repre- sented by a leaf, but is apparently a Gmiphaliiwi, The true juniper, found higher than any other trees, was als» only a twig, but ajipears to be ,/uniperus communis. Tiicro was also on the same cird (collected hy Mr. IJenneft). along with a bit of Menziesia, a i'ragmentof Cassiope tctnii/onu, and a I'ntcn- tilld. One ^Jenzicsia is marked as having purple flowers. It is appa- rently M, fvrruijinca, but there are no flowers. Ah lor the sficcies oi Abies and I'inus, I found nothing in the parcel but a niaKS of leaves. Without cones I could only guess at the species. Still I have made out that high on the mount;iin are found, as on most mountains in N.W. America, Abies Patto.r'ana, and a Larix, probably /.. J.i/allii. '" addition to the common coui..ry Conifenv lower down. fakiT ]i|;llltN. II Oiilldilinll ilhnllt iMllll- iilty. Sumo vo the lilbels wlio fdrniiiil Imvc l)(M'ii iiiti'il "lutes. SOl'il'lit'H of "liciillicr" ALriNE NOTES. Asci'NT or Illimani. — Tho following extract is from 'Nature': — 'In our number of August '.♦ we briefly noticed the ascent made by M. Wiener of the mountain Illimani, one of the highest— if not tho highest — of the liolivian Andes, which forms a noble ol>ject from the city of La I'a/, and was formerly i imputed (on the authority of Mr. I'l'Utiaiul) to have an altitude of no lesti than 21, 200 feet.* M. Wiener, however, makes its height only 20,112 feet, while Mr. Minchin, as we * Iluinboldt, iiowovcr, gives 21,146 foot.— El). l& ;5t)s Aljiiiii Xdtcs. have already obpcrvod, plans it^^ altifud." at •21,:.'2l feet. If tlie latter estimate he correct, M. Wiener lias, w(; believe, not only nuide tlio highest ascent whicli has been made in the Andes, Imt lias attiiiiied a greater altitude than has hitherto bten reached on the earth out of Asia, and in Asia has only been beaten by Mr. Johiison, who some years ago got to a height ol 22,.'5()l) feet in Cashmere. As the recorded aseents to tlio heiirht v[ 21,(li>0 feet are extremely few, we siiall liegliiJ to hear further particulars respecting M. Wiener's exploit, and more especially wdiether he experienced much exhaustion through the rare- faction of the air. Practised mountaineers who have clindied to a heiu-ht of 17,000 to IS.OOO feet have been of opinion that even at such altitudes tliere is a very important and ]>erceiitil)le iiiininution of tiie bodily jiowers, and think it probable that tlie height of 20,000 or 2G,()t)0 feet will l)o found to bo about the limit wdiicli will ever he reach(nl on foot. As a set-olf to this opinion we mav mention the liicts that hunters in the Himalayas fre((Uently pursue their game at heights exceeding -JOiOO't feet without experiencing any notable inconvciuenee from the low barometric pressure, and that natives living on the base of Demavcnd, near Teheran, often ascend to its summit to gather sul- phur from its crater without any creat difhculty. The height of this mountain, there is re.ason to believe, also exceeds 20,000 feet, al- though it has never been accurately determined.* If, thereliire, severe Mork can bo done with impunity at such elevations, it seems not un- rea.sunablo to sui)pose that much gn^ater heights might be attained by mi'ii wdio had previously accustomed themselves to life at high alti- tudes. Aeronauts, anyhow, have [.rovetl that life can wist at JStM'OO feet aliove the level of the sea, and that at 2.'),t)(X) feet and upwards one may positivtdy be comfortable if sufficiently warndy chid. That sucli is tlie ca.se is sutlicieiitly remarkahle, t()r "travellers in the air " have to sustain incomparably more rapid variations of jiressuie and temperature than moimtain-climbors. Mr. Glaisher, on his meuiorahle ascent on September .'i, 18(12, left the earth at 1 P.M., and in less than an hour shot up to a height of ;iO,(lOO feet. At starting, the tempera- ture of the air was ;")'.) .leg., and at its greatest altitude it was (!1 deg. lower. Mountainocr.s experience no such extreme variations as these. They rarely a.scend more rapiilly than 1,000 feet per hour, never so nuudi as l.">,ooo (oet in a dr-, and become to some extent accliniatized as they progress upwards. (In the whole we are inclined to think that man will not rest until he has at least attempted to reach the loftiest .summits on the eartli, though wc will venture to assert that it will be lou'j before anyone crushes down the snow on the suminit of Mount Kverest.' CiMA 1)1 Nakdisio (Fiii:siini,i.i)), or ('im\ i«i Vai,i.o\ (Ai'sti:ian Go- vr.itNMKNT Map).— (Jn September II, 1877, Messrs. U. Gaskell and M. Ilolzmann, with A. Laceilelli, of Cortina, as guide, made the first » />r/»fl)vw/.-('iipt. Na'icr, umi.'v dale Tclu'nin, NovcniluT 1(3, 1877, wntos 1.)Mr. .Monro as follows: -I liiwo hi-cn up IVmi.ivi'ikI .ipiiii with iv new l:ir"- 111. •Or I l.reilirlit out, iind hiiv« re.lnce.l lii.. ini-lil In IH.AOO (or, oxactl}' 18,11':*) I'll.' .'S<M^ Al|iiiii> .Iciuriial, iNo. ,'>7. p. 'M\. .>;i'.-.ai2 Mi^m^fS m ii^H ■^■'- Advertitements. In th» Press, small post 8vo. elath extra, iLPINE ASCENTS & ADVENTURES; OB, ROCK AND SNOW SKETCHES. TL. SOI3:"0"TZ; "MTILSOlsr, Member of the Alpine Olnb, Author of <8tudiea uud Bonuuoea,' Ao. *o. "With Two Illustrations, by Marcus Stone, A.R.A. and Edward "Whyinper. 'I Moept tbe noU. I ohoow to wXk high with ittbUmer dnad BatlMr than ewwl in lotety.' Qbobob Buot, Armtart. London: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, 8EAELE, & RIYINGTON, Cioira Bnildings. 188 Fleet Street. MACMILLAH & GO.'S PU BLICATIOMS. Tbtrd Edition, arowii8T0.»«. JtubttUf. •RANSCAUCASIA AND ARARAT. By James Bbtce, Author of • Th» Hofy Bomaa Bmpiw.' Bdng Noi« of a Yioatioa Tow tn tho Antnmn of 1876. With lUiwtnUtton Mtdltap. _ . , Tho Timet rayi :— ' He has produood • tbtj lnt«re»ting volume, full of infmnation. . • •>!» P™- fBryoe'i bold anaut of Mount Anmt alono, when KUidi and OoMMks Hike «*«ft^ n|n»iJ»;^»X" * J f eat of Diountiiin oHmWng which In ItwU prOTea him to bo no unworthy member of th«rAJ*ie Oluft. {Tills alone would render bl* book well worth reading, quite apart from the store of Inloitoatlon oon- [ tained in it.' [LORD MELBOURNE'S MEMOIRS. By W. M. Tobmhs, j M.P. With Portrait after Sir ThomaalAwwnoe. J rota. 8*0. 8«#. THE DAILY NEWS CORRESPONDENCE OF THE ' WAR BRTWBKK BU8SU AND TUBKKT. Inolttdtof the Lettere of Mr. AwaunAU* FoRBM, Mr. J. B. MoOAaAM, and other Bpeolal Oomapoiidente. 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