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Les diagrammes suivants . illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 « I i MEMORIALS ov MISSIONARY LIFE, IN NOVA SCOTIA. .1 . y \ iiY CHARLES CHURCHILL, P WESLEYAN MISSIONARY. "0 ^' HonDon : JOHN MASON; HAMILTON, ADAMS, 5c CO. NOTTINGHAM: DEARDEN. 1845. re Printed by W. Deaeden, Cnilton Street, Notringham ■^IWIiMMii|HWrM>iMliiliiii«fc*« 'i tmm / TO THE CHAIEMAN AND WESLEYAN MINISTERS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT, THIS LITTLE WORK IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BIT ^tie ^ttilior^ I r J *< As workers together with him." —St. Paul. If t INTRODUCTION. The present undertaking has been commenced and con- cluded, under the pressure of full employment in ministerial engagements; from the conviction, that, although reports of the operations of the Wesleyan Missionary Society are presented to its subscribers from year to year, faithfully exhibiting the great and leading features of that success with which it has pleased the Great Head of the Church, among other kindred institutions, to favour us : yet, at the same time, comparatively little is known, even through that medium, of the localities and other minutiae of our nearest Missionary Stations. There are numberless matters of interest, which come under the eye of the Missionary alone; and thus, every labourer in the foreign field is the depositary of incidents and circumstances, brought beneath his own observation, which, if they could but be known, would be a source of interest and of profit to the world at large. The idea has frequently presented itself, that a series of works of a similar character to the present, at least in its plan and design, may yet before long be presented to the Christian world; so as to form a class in the family library, at present only partially occupied. It is not intended to intimate that no such works have been published; on the '^tmtmm VI INTRODUCTION contraiy, we have memorials from South Africa, South Seas, West Indies, &c., &c., of a class much superior to the present eflfort ; hut it appears still to remain for a popular series of sketches to be published from each Foreign Dis- trict, which shall embrace statistical, historical, topographi- cal, and general features of such district, including remarkable cases of conversion and death, which will always be interesting and profitable in connection with such details ; and being furnished by the Missionaries themselves, may be received as an unbiassed and authentic record. Although the writer of the following pages has not the assurance to think, that he has struck out a new line of thought or action, or, that the present little effort may be thought worthy to occupy a place, except in the very rear of such a series : he still hopes, that the presumption of the under- taking may be lost sight of, so that the admission of the intention may be allowed, even where criticism may con- demn the execution of the same. CONTENTS. PAGB "REF.4CE> •..»)e«e»«««. ...» V CHAPTER FIRST. The Voyage j CHAPTER SECOND. Circuits in the Nova Scotia District 20 CHAPTER THIRD. Protracted Meetings \^ §7 CHAPTER FOURTH. Pastoral Engagements gg CHAPTER FIFTH. Grace in Death ^ 1^ CHAPTER SIXTH. Manners and Customs, Facilities of Communication, Climate, he I^j CHAPTER SEVENTH. Natural Productions, Scenery, Native Indians, &c. . . 174 CHAPTER EIGHTH. Perils of the Coast 19q MEMORIALS OF MISSIONARY LIFE IN NOVA SCOTIA. CHAPTER FIRST. THE VOYAGE. Lord of earth, and air, and sea. Supreme in power and grace ; Under thy protection we Our souls and bodies place. Bold, an unknown land to try, We launch into the foaming deep, Rocks, and storms, and deaths defy. With Jesus in the ship. Wesley's Hymns. The mere circumstance, that almost every work pro- fessing to communicate intelligence from abroad, commences with the details of a sea voyage; — be- comes at length almost objectionable, and obnoxious to criticism ; — especially when there must be neces- sarily, to a certain extent, a great similarity in the circumstances themselves. At the same time the voyage of an individual, or of a family, to a foreign station connected with the mission fields will perhaps be allowed, by serious readers at least, to possess an interest which might be denied to the mere traveller or tourist, whose only object is to journalise abroad B CHAPTER I. and publish a book on his return. " They that go down to the sea in ships and do business in great waters ; these see the works of the Lord, and his won- ders in the deep ;" but it is the mind of the Christian believer surely, which can best appreciate these wonders, although he may not be the most fluent in his description of the same. Although but few years have elapsed since this voyage was undertaken, there were then no steam leviathans ploughing the surface of the Western Ocean, and between the shores of Britain and Nova Scotia ; no ships like to the well appointed " liners/* nmning to New York, offered their luxuries to the voyager. Still, comfortable merchant vessels of an ordinary class, offered necessary accommodation ; and though some wants, better understood when half-way across the Atlantic than when in the docks at Liverpool, were subsequently in this case matters of regret, nevertheless the vessel embarked in made good her passsge ; her weaknesses were the consequence of age and hard usage, and not many trips afterwards her hull was dashed to pieces on a " rocky iron-bound coast." A small Missionary party received the valedictions of one of the Secretaries of the Wesleyan Missionary Society, and those also of a few kind friends, on an afternoon in the early part of the month of Septem- ber, 1837, on board the barque " John Porter," J. H. THE VOYAGE. Pernetti, Master, bound to Halifax, N.S. : which was shortly afterwards warped out of dock into the Mersey awaiting the morning tide, and the services of a " Steam Tug," to tow her through the intricacies of the entrance to the port of Liverpool, fairly into the Irish Channel. The first night spent upon the water is eminently uncomfortable., whether lying at anchor or under weigh ; and this was not less felt by us, than by any former venturers upon the ocean. 1 1 appeared but a very short time past midnight, when a thousand discordant noises combined to prevent any thing like sound repose ; the hissing of the steamer which had now come alongside, — the different shouts of the crew of both vessels, — the rattling of the windlass palls, and the " cheerily ho " of the seamen as the anchor was raised, — feet running to and fro over our heads, — ropes and blocks thundering upon the deck, — rapid orders given, — then a certain rippling noise of the water close beside us, and a buoyant motion, told us that we were under weigh, although it wanted some considerable time to the break of day. When it was daylight we went upon deck, but the romance of taking a last long look at the busy town, as to opportunity, was lost ; the Black Rock Fort frowned astern, and closed the mouth of the Mersey ; the steamer was carrying us ra])idly on without the aid of sails, the wind being unfavorable for their use in CHAPTER I. our present course; and it was not until this our auxiliary had performed its stipulated service, — when the hawser was cast off, — a last shake of the hand taken with persons we had never before seen, — who were returning to Liverpool in the steamer, and she altered her course to return, that we felt the last link severed, — we were now fairly at sea. About this time we passed the Bell buoy ; which, however it might be fancied to ring a welcome to those returning home, appeared more kaell like in its sound » to us. It is a buoy, placed I believe at the extremity of the buoyed entrance to Liverpool ; it presents a conical structure of wood above the surface of the water, with a broad base ; and at the apex is a bell, the heaving motion of the sea keeping it constantly tolling, and adding nothing pleasant to our feelings, who had just left the pleasing associations of early friends at home, to enter on a new and untried path. But let it not be imagined that our spirits were much depressed, we had counted the cost of these things, and had deliberately chosen our present situa- tion, which we knew must be passed, before a future coveted scene of labour could be entered upon. The first day, however, appeared to pass heavily along, — the wind blew fresh from the south west, and a very few hours found us handing the lighter sails and reefing top-sails : during the first three days we held this heavy breeze, almost a gale, thought quite so then by THE VOYAGE. 6 us; and during this time our actual progress was very small, — from Holyhead to Howth, and then back again, — gaining a little to the southward on every tack, was our first result; while glimpses of distant land, and a rolling sea and stormy sky were the only objects we could see. I had heard of passages across the Atlantic so favorable, from the serenity of the sky and the smoothness of the water, that the voyage might have been made in the long boat : — and of sabbath services at sea so interesting, with the blue firmament for a canopy, and the whole crew in their best trim attend- ing the service of God ; — that perhaps some little romance of feeling had mingled with my anticipation of the sabbath at sea : but I soon found how much in this instance I had miscalculated. The motion of the ship on the first sabbath morning was so great, that it was with great difficulty I could stand at all upon the cabin floor ; and my head appeared to be in as much confusion as the scene around me. I scarcely left my berth during the day, yet we had left to us both spiritual joy and divine consolation ; we held a service in our little state room, a congregation of four : our temple was small, but God was there ; we sang our hymns, read the beautiful Liturgy of the Church, engaged in prayer, and were happy. Those hymns adapted to use on shipboard, appeared to possess an interest and beauty never appreciated before, and f»/ 6 CHAPTER I. while we felt that God was assuredly present with us, we found it good to he there. Amidst the many strange and uncomfortahle feel- ings incidental to a sea-voyage, there are others which hy the force of contrast are unspeakably pleasing ; I know not that I ever experienced a more delightful sensation, than T did on awaking the following morn- ing ; until the previous night we had had no sound repose;— one night indeed, through fatigue, amidst much motion I had fallen asleep, and awoke with a sudden lee-lurch, to find myself pitching out head foremost on an iron-bound trunk ; and had not the opposite side of the state room been within reach of my extended hand, I must have fallen violently from a height of four or five feet upon the same ; so that in a heavy sea, I could not sleep soundly. But on this Monday morning. I woke from refreshing sleep, and the vessel was quiet and still, the rush of waters at the side told of rapid progress, and there was a pleasing buoyancy in my couch ; but the sensations from con- tra?* were so agreeable, that the return of health after a season of sickness and pain, could not cause more delightful emotions than those which I then experi- enced :— praise to the God of all mercies was in my heart and on my tongue, and I rose with renewed strength to encounter whatever might subsequently arise. Still the wind was adverse to our maintaining our proper course : — we were still beating down chan- THE VOYAGE. 7 nel, twenty four hours sail with a fair wind would have brought us as far as we had yet attained, and it was not until the Wednesday evening, that we saw the Irish Coast for the last time. By this time we had become more accustomed to the motion of the vessel, we had prayer morning and evening either in the cabin or the state room ; had obtained some little knowledge of the crew, and found to our great satisfaction that two of them, men of colour, the cook and the steward, were professors of religion and members of the Wesleyan Society. On the morning of the eighth day we took what is called, our nautical departure ; — obtained our first observation for latitude and longitude, and were fairly launched into the Western or Atlantic Ocean. It was a beau- tiful morning,— a deep blue sky with a few light fleecy clouds, by their snowy whiteness making the blue sea and sky more lovely ; a few gulls sportively skimming over the waters ; our little barque gallantly breasting the waves ; and no haze nor humidity in the atmosphere around. Perhaps in no situation in which we may be occa- sionally placed, does sickness appear more trying and painful than at sea ;— when from malignant disorders there is no retreat, and for serious sickness no efficient help : it may easily be imagined, therefore, that oui feelings were not slightly affected, when we understood before we had been ten days at sea, that one of our 8 CHAPTER I. crew, the poor black cook, was taken sick with the small pox, apparently of the most malignant and viru- lent kmd. So rapidly and so fearfully did this disease reduce its victim, that in a few days all intercourse with the half-deck was closed by the Captain's order • who would not allow me (and perhaps it was most prudent) to visit the patient, either to attempt to reduce the fever by bleeding, or to converse with hnn on the home in heaven to which he was hastening ;_one individual alone was permitted to carry him some food, and administer to his neces- sary wants. On the tenth day he was delirious and blind • by gomg down from the deck into the cabin for a (e^ mmutes in the middle of the day. 1 accidentally avoided a spectacle, which filled with horror, all who witnessed it at the time. I„ the height of his agony, this poor man had rolled himself upon his mattress until the skin had enUrely left his forehead ; in this' condition,-bleeding, delirious, and blind,-he es caped from his berth, and while the Captain and mate were conversing together on deck, suddenly presented himself above the combings of the booby hatch -a spectacle too hideous to conceive or describe. He'was suddenly ordered down with an authority the poor fellow as rapidly aud instinctively obeyed, and during the night he breathed his las. ; an inch-board was the only partition between our state room and the scene THE VOYAGE. 9 of death,— but this was a contingency which could not be avoided. When I went on deck the following morning, I found them preparing the body for interment —it was already sewed up in sail cloth, with a bag of old iron tied to the feet :— When all the preparations were completed, it was laid upon a board on the gunwale, a little forward of the main shrouds; — the crew were summoned to attend, and I read the burial service for the dead at sea. The sky was lowering and stormy, the ship was rolling heavily, and I had to hold on by a belaying pin to retain my position. When I came to the words, " We therefore commit his body to the deep," — I paused a moment, the two men standing ready gave a quick glance at the Captain— a hoarse voice cried " heave," and the deep received the dead till the morning of the resurrection : the solemn ser- vice of the Church, the reduction of our small number, the awful circumstances of his death, appeared deeply to impress our hitherto thoughtless crew. All had taken place as described, and I had returned below, before my family were even aware that he was dead : — we embraced this favorable opportunity, and in the after- noon his death was improved by an address from a brother Missionary ; when our little party was all on deck, and the whole crew for the tirst time were called aft for divine service. Our anxieties were now aroused through fear of N 10 CHAPTER I. m ecfoa ; „ost providentially I had supplied myself wnh a bottle of ,he solution of chloride of lime, and with th,s we thoronghly washed between decks, and lumigated every part of the vessel. We were greatly disappointed in not being able to hold divme service on the sabbath with the crew, bat «e found that it was impracticable ; the number of the crew was small, divided into two watches; so that when they were not on duty on deck, they were in their hammocks ; the few on duty were all required to work the ship, and the weather was generally ex- tremely unfavorable; so we endeavoured to secure their attention to serious things by distributing tracts. a..d holdmg conversations with them as circumstances would permit. • The strange objects of interest met with at sea were, as usual with landsmen, matters of sunrise and admuauon to us ! We saw almost eve^r day shoals of porpoises playing round the bows of the ship. Rene- rally swimming together in pain,, the two donml fins cutung the waves for some distance, without showing more of the fish itself; ending the race with a gambol or leap four or five feet above the surface. The stormy petrel was never seen but from the taf&ail. following in the wake of the vessel; flying about in graceful gyrations, or lightly stepping with its webbed feet for a moment on the surface of the wave. The grampus or blackfish was seen at some distance, and m ^miiiiH ■. i . i .n,.. THE VOYAGE, 11 the phosphorescent appearance of the water at night, was an ohject of admiration and beauty. But that which most completely breaks in upon the monotony of a sea voyage, is meeting with another vessel, and in nautical language, *' speaking her." When out twelve days, while sitting at dinner in the cabin, the mate made his appearance at the door, to announce that a brig at a little distance had " hove to," as though wishing to speak us. The table was speedily deserted, the speaking trumpet handed from the captain's room, and anxious eyes bent on the stranger from the deck. The sound of other voices than our own seemed very strange when " ship ahoy" came hoarsely down the breeze ; we exchanged names, destination, port of departure and longitude, and found our neighbour was from Quebec twenty- eight days out. What surprised us most was, her statement that she had had easterly winds all her passage, while we had had the very opposite, in fact each had had what the other wanted. We now began to anticipate still rougher weather from our approach to the autumnal equinox ; nor were we wrong in our calculations, the equinoctial gales set in with unusual violence in a few days after the sun crossed the line. I shall take this opportunity of mentioning, what may appear a trifling circum- stance in itself, but which was frequently the means of procuring for us substantial comfort. Among 12 CHAPTER I. Other books which I brought with me on board, was a small Tract Society's Almanack, with a passage of Scripture or promise selected for every day in the year ; the first time that it commended itself to my notice in particular, was on the day of my ordination m Liveipool ; my mind had been deeply exercised with a view of the awful responsibility of the under- taking, in which I was about to engage ; I recalled to mind all the peculiar circumstances through which I had been providentially led to this choice; I earnestly prayed for divine direction, and for an assurance that I was in the path of duty, when shortly after I took out this pocket almanack to examine it, and I found the text for that day— and I had not noticed it be- fore- was this, "I will both bless thee, and thou shalt be a blessing," how inexpressibly comforting did these words appear ! Without regarding it with any superstitious feelings, or even expecting to find better directions than I should have done in searching the word of God at large, I still was often led to mark the obvious coincidence between the passage for the day, and the circumstances in which we were placed. We never had a storm but we had a promise too, and on the day on which we were driving hither and thither under the force of the most furious gale we had to en- counter, the passage for that day was, " Though thou passest through the waters I will be with thee, and through the floods, they shall not overflow thee." THE VOYAGE. 13 The third sabbath at sea was a day of real delight and spiritual enjoyment, perhaps as a preparation for approaching trials : we had then for the first time, or nearly so, a fair wind, and we were making from seven to eight knots an hour; our latitude was 49° 3" our longitude 26° 54. Still the appearance of the sky betokened wind ; at the setting of the sun, the clouds lay piled upon the horizon in heavy masses, present- ing an appearance I had never witnessed before ; sometimes we appeared as though we were sailing under a rocky coast of precipitous height, then the clouds took the semblance of an immense forest, parts of which catching the reflection of the sun's last rays appeared to be on fire ; the whole was a dark mass, with light openings at intervals, backed with a crimson and orange sky, gradually advancing towards the zenith, where it still retained its cerulean hue : the whole circle of the horizon on the eastern side was belted with clouds of lighter colour and fantastic shape. According to our expectation the wind arose when the sun was down, and it increased to a gale which we held several days. The force of these storms it is out of my power to describe, but I think that if all the feelings of man's impotency and weakness, contrasted with the power of God, which are forced upon the mind through a long period of ordinary life, could be concentrated in the feelings of a single day, or even a single hour, the mind would receive no deeper im- 14 CHAPTER I. pression than is experienced during a heavy gale at sea. The sky appears as wild as it is possible to con- ceive; I have never witnessed such an appearance during a gale on shore; the sea makes a tremendous and unearthly sound, rushing up in mountainous heights, with labouring valleys between ; not such waves were they as I had been accustomed to imagine, with a curling crest at the top of each billow, but with a roundness, a vastness, a solidity in the mass, looking more like oil in violent commotion than water ; the wind roars and strains through the shrouds and rigging, with a sound not easily forgotten ; the vessel heaves, and rolls, and pitches, alternately deeply sunk in a watery valley, and in another moment hoisted on the summit of a rising wave, while the spray and sea dash over the deck of the vessel, from the figure head to the wheel. The thunder which accompanied this storm was unheard amidst the roaring of the elements, but the lightning during the night was terrific, it ran down the rigging and along the spars, lighting up in one moment the whole horizon, with the whole outline of the ship, masts, yards, booms, standing and running rigging appearing in boldest relief for an instan^,, to be enveloped as suddenly in pitchy darkness. Th? captain was struck with the electric fluid upon nis wrist, as he steadied himself by a belaying pin on deck, and his arm fell powerless by his side, but he recovered tne i^e of it on the jllowing day. M THE VOYAGE. 15 The day after this very severe gale was more moderate, and we hoped that the violence of it was spent, but we were mistaken. Before night we were again under close-reefed topsails, with head wind and heavy cross-sea, and by the following morning the gale was again at its height : our sails were close- reefed foresail and double reefed maintop-sail — our progress was very small. I saw a sea strike the star- board bow of the vessel and the bulwarks were stripped as though they were but paper. A much longer time was now employed at the pumps, for the strain- ing of the ship caused her to leak considerably. The nights also were now getting long, and the suspense required all the Christian resignation and patience we could command. We were sailing at a better rate on the second night, but the result was, that the decks were nearly all the time under water, the sea making a clear breach over her. About half-past three a.m. I felt a heavy sea strike the deck, a crash followed, the vessel heeled over, I heard the sea pouring down into the cabin, and I thought we were going down. I jumped up from my berth and opened the door of the state-room, but the noise drowned my loudest sfforts to obtain an answer by calling — the lamp was just expiring in the cabin ; but shortly afterwards the steward came, and our fears were quieted by learning that it was the skylight only which had been broken by the force of the sea. Still the motion of the vessel mmmm ■!*>«• 16 CHAPTER I. was awful. I obtained a light, hung my watch with in sight, and commending ourselves to the Lord, anxiously and sleeplessly waited for the morning. This ushered in the Sabbath day, but how different was our situation from that of friends on shore, our beds were wet, the cabin was moist and damp, and no apparent possibility of holding divine service. We said, ** How amiable are thy tabernacles, O Lord of Hosts." Our captain and first mate, about this time were complaining of sickness ; the former continued the exercise of his arduous duties, but the latter was laid aside. We had treated him at first for influenza, with some fear of a worse disorder, and I soon found my worst fears realized, for after a very short time he ex- hibited the external symptoms of small pox. We had in the first instance already narrated, felt fears that if we had i rapid run across the Atlantic, we might be detained on the quarantine ground at the end of our voyage ; and again we had these fears revived. But it is not only useless, it is wrong to anticipate evils only in prospect ; we were ready to giieve at our de- tention on the voyage to a longer extent than we had expected, yet it was so exactly arranged, in the over- ruling of Providence, that this individual recovered from his iickness, and lost even the marks of the complaint, the very day before wo made the land — we had therefore no detention on this account, whereas tHE VOYAGE, 17 vsLtch within the Lord, le morning, ow different 1 shore, our imp, and no irvice. We O Lord of 3 time were iitiniied the :ter was laid luenza, with I found my time he ex- K. We had fears that if ^e might be end of our i'ived. But cipate evils B at our de- han we had n the over- l recovered irks of the e land — we nt, whereas had our desires and wishes been realized, in eiwiing our voyage a week before the time when we did reach our port, w© shottld have been detained a considerable time in quarantine, before we could have gone on shore. On the tenth of October we were in close proximity to the Banks of Newfoundland; our approach was Bftarked by the sea apparently changing its colour from deep blue to a dingy green. A short time after this we were prevented by a cloudy sky from obtain- ing observations whereby to ascertain our progress, our ship's place was therefore ascertained by what is called " dead reckoning" — the uncertainty of this mode, and the superiority of chronometrical calcula- tions, may be easily illustrated by a single case. On the first fine day, the captain as usual obtained sights to work out his longitude, but his calculations varied so much with the dead reckoning for the short period past, that he concluded some error in taking the time kad occurred ; again it was tried, and while each cal- culation agreed, there was still the difference between tlie two modes of calculation ; a difference, in fact, of three degrees. We had evidently been in what is called the GuJf Stream — a powerful marine current setting to the eastward — so that although we had gone through the water at the rate the log line intimated, we had not made any westerly progress owing to die force of the current setting against us : however from this time our progress was favourable. On the "W il . ii ^W 18 CHAPTER 1. j seventeenth of October we had been at sea forty-one days, and from all appearances were nor far from land. We had witnessed with feelings of pleasure the usual bustle about the vessel, in making preparations for entering port ; the huge anchors which had been stowed on deck during our passage, were again hoisted over the bows, the rigging was dressed with oil, the masts and decks were scraped, the cables stowed on deck, and other necessary arrangements made. But I must not omit to remark that on this evening, and it was the last of the voyage, we were gratified and delighted with a view at the setting of the sun, of the most splendid sky, that the most lively imagination could possibly conceive. The sea was calm, and the gentle undulations of its surface, reflected the last rays of the sun in ripplets of golden hue, from the horizon to the very sides of the ship. But the sky more particularly drew my attention, there were no clouds to be seen, but the successions of different shades of colour were more distinct than I had ever seen them before. On the horizon, above the clearly defined line of water, the colour just at sunset was a deep orange fading into a rich amber colour; this gradually melted into a pale sulphur hue, that into a light green, which again caught a hue of salmon colour, — the shades were distinctly seen line above line, until the last deepened into a rich crimson flush, which suflfused the western sky. THE VOYAGE. 19 , forty-one from land. ! the usual •ations for had been iin hoisted ith oil, the stowed on lade. But ening, and Bitified and sun, of the nagination n, and the d the last , from the ut the sky e were no >f different I had ever the clearly nset was a )lour ; this that into a of salmon line above nson flush, The next morning appeared to favour our anticipa- tion, gannetts, gulls, black ducks, a single cormorant, and a few land birds, announced the vicinity of the land, and a strict look out for the same was kept. The captain thought we should make the land in the afternoon, and we were sitting at dinner when the sound was heard that land was seen. The light- house on Sambro' Island, at the mouth of the harbour of Halifax, was the lirst object seen. This was a striking proof to us of the nicety with which practical navigators can calculate the progress of their ofttimes zigzag course across the mighty deep. My feelings on viewing the land of my adoption, and the scene of my future labours, were such as cannot be pourtrayed ; hope, " long deferred," rose to certainty, as we sailed up the noble harbour. At sun- down we anchored abreast of the town, and before night I had seen some of my brethren in the ministry, had heard the words oft repeated, " Welcome to Nova Scotia," and with a full and thankful heart, rejoiced to know our voyage ended. CHAPTER SECOND. CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTBICT. fr O the fatbomless love that has deigned to approve And piosper the work of oar haiuU; With our pastoral crook we went over the brook, An>i| behold, we are spread into bands. Wesley's Hymns. Although several historical notices of the province of Nova Scotia have, at different periods, issued from the press, there is still, to a certain extent, but little infoiination possessed by the generality of readers on many points connected with this important portion of the British dominions. To some extent, this want may have been mitigated during the last few years : since the introduction of steam commrmication for the Anglo-American Mails, on this route, undoubtedly several thousand persons have been transitorially brought into contact with these shores ; and the lessening of the distance of CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT, 21 time, if not of space, has made the presis at home, and its readers also, more familiar with the general outlines of the province ; but there is still room for much interesting matter in connection with minor details. Those remarks, with which it is intended to furnish the reader in these pages, are of a definite and limited character. Our design is more in accordance with the leii^ure of the journalist, than the labour of the historian ; and, though its execution may not be destitude of information and interest to the general reader, the class we should select as feeling the deepest interest in our plans, is that whose sectarian or de- nominational peculiarities are Wesleyan; and who may be considered as looking with thankful satisfac- tion at the success and operations of the Wesleyan Missionary Society. Some years ago an attempt of this kind was made by one of the Society's Missionaries who laboured here,* whose highly poetic temperament enabled him to present an attractive volume to the public, however obsolete it may appear in the present state of religious instruction in the province. In fact, the very exist- ence of that volume, from the circumstance just named, calls for another of the series, that its details may not bo mistaken for the present situation of things. The individual that may casually assist ih the first operations of chopping and clearing the wild * 114t. Jo«hnH M&rfldrn. iinriwirWMria«w»iMiiiwiii 22 CHAPTER II. forests of these shores may leave the spot for other scenes, with his mind so impressed with each feature as he left it, that he might almost deny the evidence of his senses, or doubt the identity of the locality, if carried back to the same spot after a lapse of years — beholding, in the situation he had left so wild, the apparently fully established mart of commerce — the busy town or village, with its stores, wharfs, shops, and neatly-finished habitations. So, likewise, an individual may discover, in the finger of that work and the present, the same marked contrast. " The wilderness and the solitary place have been made glad, and the desert has rejoiced and blossomed as the rose." An apparent difference, therefore, between the two narratives fonns, by no means, an imputation of the untruthfulness of the former, but may serve to present some estimate of the progress made, both in civilisation and Christian feeling, in the lapse of time. Another remark is still called for, in correction of statements proceeding from another source, still with- out any imputation of design, but, on the contrarv, an imperfect acquaintance with facts, which may lead to a want of appreciation of the labours of this and kindred societies. In that excellent and useful publication, Chambers' Information for the People,* it is stated, • No. 17, page 863, Octavo Edition, 1843. :l CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 23 in a brief notice of the province, that the chief towns are, Halifax, Truro, Londonderry, and Onsluw. An individual may then turn in inquiry to the records of the Wesley an, or other Missionary Societies, and will perhaps find only one, or at most two, of the names above mentioned — the inference being, evidently, that some of the larger towns are entirely unoccupied ; while, in fact, the statement itself is in error, Halifax is a city— Tniro a small country village ; but Lon- donderry and Onslow are neither towns nor villages, but townships. There are a few other statements in the same notice, which it would have been pleasing to rectify, to add to the interest and usefulness of this important publication ; but our office is confined to those which more particularly bear upon our present object. It must also be pleaded, in justification of what may be presented in these pages, that the prominence given to the operations of one religious society must not be regarded as a depreciation of the valuable efforts of other missionary societies, any more than the exhibi- tion of a want of catholicity of feeling towards each and all. There is a possibility of being distinct as the billow, yet one as the ocean. Our avowed object is, to confine ourselves to personal observation of facts — that observation has been confined within the limits already mentioned, and will afford sufficient materials for the present work. We shall, therefore, enter at once upon a bird's-eye 24 CHAPTER. II. view of the present stations, or circuits^ occupied by our missiouariea.''^ Until the year 1826 the provinces of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick were united in one large district, the former province being the first occupied, and pre- senting, at that time, the most extensive and favour- able field of labour ; but, at the period referred to, the sister province had attained that importance — that is, in ecclesiastical matters — that it was thought ad- visable to separate it into a district per se, with its own proper Chairman and place of meeting. It was in this separation, in order to give an advantage thought to be due to the new district, that the Bridge- town and Aylesford Circuits, as well as the Annapolis and Digby Circuits, were united to the New Bruns- wick District, though situated in the province of Nova Scotia. Their contiguity to the other districts, from • For the Information of those who are not intimately acquainted with the economical aiTanpements of the different departments of Wesleyan Methodism, it will be necessary to state that the several Districts are not necessarily confined by any pro' incial boundary, but simply imply an independent division of the work under th« general supei-intendeuce of one of the older preachers, who presides at the annual meetinR of the aeveral preachers in the District, aud is termed the Chairman of the Dis- trict. These districts are under the control of the Committee of the Wesleyan Missionary Society and of the British Conference. The Cir. cuits, of which these Districts are composed, comprise the parish or sphere of pastoral labour, which devolved upon each Missionary, or upon tw9 or more where the circuit is large. The Nova Scotia District includes Halifax, Lunenbury, Liverj)ool, Bnrrington, Yarmouth, Horton and Com- wallis, Windsor, Newport and Shubenacadie, Amherst, Wallace and Guy*- borough, circuits in Nova Scotia Proper ; Charlotte Town, Bedeyne, and Mevoray Harbour, circuits in Prince Edward Island ; and Sydney and Ship Harbour, in the island of Cape Bretop. The present Chairman ia the B«T. Richard Knight. CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 25 the frequent means afforded for crossing the Bay of Fundy, and the unproved conveyances of later years, renders this, by no means, an inconvenience to any party, only that it presents every year an apparent anomaly in the Minutes of Conference, to those who are acquainted partially with the localities themselves, and not with the reasons above assigned. With these remarks, as introductory, we shall now confine our attention to the present situation of the several circuits in the Nova Scotia District ; refemng to them in the order in which they will be found in the Minutes of the British Conference ; while, at the same time, a glance at the map of the province will show that they are presented in a similarly consecu- tive arrangement in their natural position — com<- mencing our notice with Halifax, the capital, and advancing in a westerly direction along the coast. Although, in a late chronological table, published in the Provincial Almanack, it appears that in 1769 two Methodist ministers visited Halifax, yet it is not until 1790 that Halifax first appears as a station on the Minutes before alluded to. As regards its local position, it has frequently been described by the tourist and historian ; and a good view of the city may be found in the lately published views, by Bartlett, of British North American scenery. It rises, with a steep ascent, from the western side of the noble Harbour — extending from north to south, a 26 CHAPTER II. distance of nearly two miles, its streets running at right angles with each other. It is an incorporated town, or city, partially lighted with gas, containing several public buildings and ecclesiastical edifices, amongst which we shall, for reasons already men- tioned, notice only the two Wesleyan Chapels, which are capable of seating, respectively about nine hun- dred or one thousand persons. The first of these in order is associated with the personal labours of the late Rev. William Black, who is justly looked upon as the founder of Methodism in these provinces. For a long period this was the only place of worship belonging to the Wesleyan Society in the town ; but the increasing number of members and hearers led to the erection of the Brunswick Street Chapel, which may be looked upon as one of the most elegant places of worship in British North America. Its exterior presents a tasteful appearance ; it has a large base- ment story, and a small tower at the western end ; the descent from the street allowing, below the Chapel, spacious lecture rooms and school rooms, which are occupied both on the sabbath and during the week. Its decorations are of the Gothic order, and the inte- rior presents a structure of more than ordinary claim to admiration. The gallery is supported on arches, with heavy pillars, corresponding pillars and arches spring- ing from the gallery to the roof, the central compaat- roent of which is vaulted for the convenience of sound. CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 27 It has a large lancet window in the eastern end, which is painted in imitation of stained glass, is re- lieved with crimson hangings of damask, and in front of this is placed the pulpit, within the railing of a spacious communion ; it possesses also an organ of considerable power and sweetness of tone, and in winter is warmed by furnaces placed in the basement story already alluded to. The other chapel at ])resent is alone lighted with gas, anu is an edifice less modem in its arrangements and general appearance, adjoining which are school and class rooms, as well as the resi- dence of the superintendent minister. The circuit comprises Dartmouth, Cole Harbour, and Laurence Town on the eastern side of the Harbour, and Sambro' and Margaret's Bay on the western side; the latter place is twenty-two miles distant from Halifax. There are at present two resident mission- aries and an assistant on the circuit, by means of the latter the country places are regularly supplied. Large and respectable congregations attend the stated ministry of the word, and the Society is in a healthful and prosperous state.* » In a brief notice like the above it is impossible to introduce matter earinK on the early introduction of Methodism into Nova Scotia— to dwell on the solicitude of Dr. Coke respecting it — who was on a voyage to this province, when he was driven by contrary winds to Antigua, and commenced our Missions in the West Indies — or to enlajge on the labours of Mr. Black, who had introduced Methodism several years before the station appears on the minutes ; but the reader is recommended to a peru- (Htl of the Memoirs of Rev. W. Black, by M. Richey, M.A. 28 CHAPTER II. P: The statistical details of each circuit, will be pre- sented altogether, in a tabular form, at the close of the present chapter. Lunenburg Circuit does not appear on the Con- ference minutes so early as the adjoining Town of Liverpool, but next to Halifax it is one of the oldest settlements of the province, being settled in 1753 by the Dutch and Germans to the number of two hundred families, who were transported hither at the expense of government, about four years after the landing of Governor Cornwallis in Halifax. The town itself rises abruptly, and with an imposing ap- pearance from the water on the eastern side of the harbour, and is distant from Halifax aboiit fifty miles by sea. In the town there are several places of wor- ship, with one Wesleyan Chapel and a Mission House adjoini!)g — but from the predominance of strong Lutheran prejudices and habits among the in- habitants, the cause at the head of the circuit is com- paratively small. It is not so however in the circuit around — exten- sive revivals of religion have taken place, and at Petite Riviere, Broad Cove, La Have, Ritzv's Cove, and Mahone Bay, spacious chiipels have been erected, and attentive congregations are found from time to time assembled together to hear the word of lile. With regard to natural scenery, there are few places which are more highly favoured with varied and ex- CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 29 tensive prospects, than the town of Lunenburg from the adjoining heights. From the Block House Hill close to the town on the one side, the eye wanders over a vast expanse, embracing Chester Bay with it» hundreds of islands and islets, some of them beauti- fully wooded, and all as a whole beautifully picturesque — the distant spire of Chester Church and the white specks of houses adding to the view ; while on the other the numerous clearings in the rapidly receding forests, and the well cultivated farms, mark the in- (lustry of the settlers— and the broad waters of the Atlantic form a mighty belt, nearly encircling thist interesting view of mingled land and ocean. A trip to the westward from the harbour of Lunen^ burg, a distance of about forty miles, brings us to the liext Station, Liverpool is one of the prettiest towns or villages in this province. It is situated at the farthest accessible part of the harbour, about three miles from the entrance, and where the waters of the river (named ^le Mersey, I believe, after its prototype in England) fall into the harbour proper ; the town consists of one nmn street, the houses are neither compact nor mattered, many of them are elegant residences, ituated within the precincts of well cultivated gar- jns, with ornamental trees and shrubs surrounding them ; the Lombardy poplar, the graceful acacia op Ipcust tree, the horse chesnut, the lilac and the labur- 30 CHAPTER II. num, make a beautiful vista for the eye to rest upon m looking down the street ; and certainly these em- belhshments will be even more highly appreciated, after an examination of the surrounding country. Unlike the last mentioned station, there are no retreating forests and extensively cultivated lands surrounding this place, the surface of the ground is covered with huge boulders of granite, which almost set at defiance the skill and perseverance of the agri- culturist, but which serve by contrast, to make the studiously neat, and well-appointed residences and gardens of the town itself appear to greater advantage. Some of the oldest and most valuable local auxiliaries to the cause of Wesleyan Methodism have lived and died in this place, and many are still found here, whose houses have long been open to the reception of Ministers of our Connexion, both transient and resi- dent. Their " prophets' chamber on the wall " it is their pride and their pleasure to keep sacred to its use ; and their hospitality is proverbial in their con- stant desire to " welcome the coming-speed the going guest." There is, in the town, a compact Mission establish- ment, comprising a large chapel and vestry, (the latter being a convenience not sufficiently appreciated in coiiuection with the religious establishments of this country) and commodious Mission House, with garden and grounds adjoining. Tlje burial ^ound St upon ese ein- •eciated, are no I lands •und is almost e agri- ke the )s and intage. iliaries 3d and here, ion of 1 resi- It IS to its ' con- i the slish- (the iated fthis with 3und CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 3t ^ in the rear of the chapel, and here rest the mortal Remains of one of the Society's Missionaries, (the late |aev. William Mc'Donald) whose name and memory are still cherished on these shores. The wide extent of this circuit renders it a very laborious one. Mills village, ten miles east from Liverpool, is a little colony of Wesleyans, and is the only station visited on that side of the river ; but on the western shore, a succession of harbour along the coast, containing small settlements, is visited by the Missionary to the extent of thirty miles from the head of the Circuit, including Hants Point, Port Muttoon, Port Jolie, Port le Bare, Sable River, and Little Harbour. The post road running through these several places, or at the head of these harbours, has greatly facilitated the comnmnication ; though some years ago, this rather resembled the dry and rocky bed of a torrent, than a public highway, but now, with the improvements of later years, wheel carriages traverse the post road with comparative comfort. At the same time, when the Missionary leaves the main road, he travels over rocks and swamps, forming a pathway such as can scarcely be conceived or described. In most of the places above mentioned are neat chapels, and considerable congregations. There are at present two Missionaries engaged on this circuit. The next circuit, in the order we have pointed out before, is Barrington. This cannot properly be f 3t CHAPTER II. called either town or village, but it ia an old miah. sionavy statioa, aixi a very interestiDg oae. At tlia Head of the harbour are two saw mills and a few houses, and very nea': ako are the Chapel and Mission premises: the former has been lately enlarged with the addition of side galleries and neat tower and spire, which, with its clean white appearance, forms a con*, spicuous and interesting object, either in entering the harbour, or for some miles distant, in approaching it from the westwaid, and it may with propriety ba added, that if any prospect needed an object for in^ terest or relief, it is the one just alluded to. The reader will have been prepared for entering upon more rocky and uninteresting scenery, in the general features of the country, as we travel in a westerly direction, from some (ew remarks made in our notice of the last circuit under cwwideration ; but here we $tep at once into the very midst of the most extrava- gant profusion of rocks. On attaining the summit of a hill in travelling from the westward towards Bat', rington, the road for ten long miles previo^is, having been in the very midst of the woods, a winding Uim of narrow road not sufficiently wide for two caiiriag«s to pass without going into the bush, without a pros- pect, and not % single house to relieve the ey» for lihi» distance. On emerging from this, and aniving at the lop of a considerable eminence, a prospect of bar- wimeefl and desolation imequalled,, pi^Mnts iiseU to CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA iCOTiA DISTRICT, 33 the ^ye. The existence of the spruce and pine, even with their unchanging verdure, appears (except in the distance) to be denied to this spot. On every side^ through a vast range of vision, aggregated milHons of granite boulders shew themselves in every variety of form and size — to say that the gi'ound is covered with them, conveys but an imperfect idea — they are literally heaped upon each other — Ossa on Pelion piled — scarcely a spot of ground can be traced free from these natural incumbrances ; with a few solitary e^tceptions by the side of the road,- where huts and small houses have been built, ^part from these, human exertions appear to have passed over this spot in utter hopelessness of reclaiming any part for the use of man or beast, while, to add to its utterly deso- late appearance, the ravages of an extensive forest- burning are visible over the whole surface ; not a tree of the former forest, which flourished here in bygone times is seen, but a few blackened trunks, and scathed limbs of trees are mixed with the heaps of rock, on which ever sid« the eye is turned. This short description has been somewhat digressive, yfe return to the Mission Premises — from this spot, which is almost within a stone's throw of the water, an interesting view of the harbour presents itself. Cape Sable, the Ultima Thule of Nova Scotia, and the dread of mariners, forms the south western point of the harbour; it is in itself part of the island 34 CHAPTER II. called by the same name, and at the passage, as it is termed, which separates this by a narrow channel from the mainlanj}, there are several houses and small farms, in fact the whole harbour is settled along its shores from thence to the head, as well as on the other side. The labour of this circuit is chiefly confined to the part which lies east of the harbour : these settlements have been occupied as missionary ground for many years, and the names of men who were pioneers in the field years ago, and who are gone to their repose in heaven, are held in affectionate remembrance, and are the familiar topic of many conversations still. At Cape Negro, Port La Tour, Northeast Harbour, and Port Roseway, are neat chapels, and an extensive society ; as also at Shelburne, which demands a more lengthened notice. In the minutes of 1791, Shel- burne appears as the head of a circuit, and at one time in the town itself, I have been informed that there were between three and four hundred members in society ; it is now united with the Barrington cir- cuit, and previous to a late revival, there was scarcely the remnant of a Wesleyan Society in the place, It may be interesting to allude to the very singular history of this place — it was first settled in the year 1764, but it was not until the close of the American war, in 1 783, that the romance of its history begins. When the United States had been recognised as an in- I CIRCUITS IN THE XOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 35 sed as an in- dependent government, a vast nnmber of individuals, who had adhered during the struggle to their loyalty, emigrated from the states to this province, the number has been estimated as high as twenty thousand, in- cluding men of property, education, professional repu- tation, agriculturists, mechanics, cum multis aliis — the greater proportion of these built the town of Shel- bume, and settled there. But how changed the scene — there are not now, nor have there been for the last twenty years, four hundred persons resident in the place, although it has one of the safest and most commodious harbours in the world. The error appears to have consisted in want of foresight in building a large town in a part of the province evidently inadequate, from the barrenness and sterility of the surrounding country, to support so large a population. The capital introduced was expended in buildings, of most of which only the sites now remain, while its first inhabitants were com- pelled soon to leave the place, to seek a more favour- able situation. If any place ever completely personified the idea of the *' Deserted Village," surely it is this — cellars from which the superstructure has totally decayed abound on every t»ide, and a general gloom seems to hang over the place. The streets are rectangular and wide, but grass grown, and yet the visitor who has haply passed his iii^W^iWt, V.lii"l4*iw»«" lllWI "W > Wtt-» 36 CHAPTER II. early life in England, will feel an interest in the place, for there is something in the ancient style and character of the huildings, although they are of wood, which is so very different from the present erections of the country, that they will forcibly remind him of home. The door divided horizontally in the middle, the heavy porch with massive balustrade, and a spacious seat, the old fashioned large brass knocker, all speak of other scenes ; and a few of the ancient settlers are still to be found who assisted in cutting down the original forest, and laying out the new streets, and who can still talk eloquently of the former history of the place. We have here still a large and commodious chapel, and though the distance from the head of the circuit (twenty-two miles) precludes, among other equally important claims, numerous visits from the stationed minister ; yet throughout the whole circuit, a fresh impulse has been lately experienced, in which this place has participated, and marks of rich and abound- ing spiritual prosperity again are seen. In the in- crease of labourers it still may rise and again occupy its former position as^ the head of a circuit ; a circum- stance which would. greatly mitigate the labour of the single minister on the circuit, and afford an opportu- nity for entering many providential openings which have presented themselves in the neighbourhood, during the past few years. CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 37 Yarmouth is distant in a north-westerly direction from the last named circuit, forty-three miles, and in itself presents fewer local impediments to the journey- ings of the missionary from the excellent roads which surround it, and the facilities it presents for commu- nicating with distant places — hut it has heen, morally considered, a soil where much has heen found to ob- struct the rapid progress of Wesley an Methodism. Its proximity to the United States has offered easy access to many new and dangerous doctrines ; while the existence of deeply rooted Antinomian prejudices, has for a long period served to retard the progress of a free and unfettered gospel. Some of these pecu- liarities if introduced in these pages, might amuse, but they would not instruct the reader ; they are rapidly disappearing, and the next generation will be found in the possession of advantages, which might be sought for in vain among the past. For a period of more than twenty-five years, it has occasionally received the labours of Wesleyan missionaries, subject to interruption at several times. Among those who first laboured here, the name of Dr. Alder, now one of the General Secretaries of the Society in London, is held in affectionate remem- brance by many of the older inhabitants of the place. It is not until lately that this station has received an ap}M)intment of any except unmarried ministers, and these appointments have been subject to several in- 38 CHAPTER II. terruptions; but during the winter of 1840-41 a gracious revival of religion took place, the number of communicants was increased from thirty-five to one hundred and fifty, and at the request of the most in- fluential friends, at the subsequent district meeting, it was made a married station. Its numbers have since this period increased very considerably, as will be seen in the schedule at the close of this chapter. There are in the circuit two good Wesleyan chapels, which are well attended ; the one is situated at Milton, and the other at Yarmouth Proper, two miles asunder — the distance between them being one continuous street. There is also a large class at Chebogne, with a commodious school-house occupied regularly for divine worship, and preaching places at Lake George, Carlton and Beaver River. In a few years these openings may be doubled in number, from the willing- ness manifested among all classes to receive the labours of the Missionary. About midway between the chapels at Yarmouth and Milton, and on the main street, the friends have exerted themselves with laudable energy to erect a comfortable Mission House. Such an one is now occupied, including garden, stabling, and every ac- commodation, and embracing a most delightful and extensive prospect. The harbour is directly in front, and the view extends over its opposite shore, so as to embrace the wider limits of the Bay of Fundy. CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 39 This circiii finishes the western section of the pro- vince, according to the plan laid down in following the southern line of coast in a westerly direction. Having arrived at Yarmouth, the extremity of the province, our course must be on the northern shore, and in an easterly direction. Following this route at a distance of nearly seventy miles we reach the neat little Town of Digby — no intermediate mission station exists. The county of Clare is almost exclusively occupied by the Acadian French, who are, like the Indians, an entire Roman Catholic population. At Weymouth, there is a Protestant settlement, which is included in the extensive limits of the Annapolis and Digby Circuits. It will be remembered that this circuit, and, advancing farther on, the Bridgetown and Aylesford Circuit, now successively traced upon the map as lying. in our present course, have been noticed as being under the jurisdiction of the New Brunswick district, for reasons therein stated. It is not our intention, therefore, to enter into an examina- tion of these stations, but pursuing our way through a most delightful and fertile country, and entering the beautiful vales of Cornwallis and Horton, we are again placed upon our intended track of observation. Our late route and present position, have found us in what has not been inaptly termed " the Garden of Nova Scotia." The whole landscape presents the appearance of rich cultivation. A succession of rich 40 CHAPTER II. farads marks the whole distance from Annapolis to Norton, upwards of seventy miles. The North Mountain — from Cape Blomidon in the Fosin of Minas, to Digby Gut, in an unbroken line, with its i^lopes and summit alike covered with a rich and luxu- rious growth of hard wood-^shelters this lovely valley from the boisterous winds and dense fogs of the Bay pf Fundy ; while, parallel to this, the Nictaux hilis serve to divide it from the rough and almost unex-* plored tract of country which, between this and the shores, we have already travelled, is a wild region of forests, savannahs, and lakes. At the extreme Horton end of the Circuit, the Basin of Minas adds all the necessary charm of water-scenery to this interesting locality. In fact a great part of the valley in question bears evident marks of having once been under water ; and thou- sands of acres of dyke land have been reclaimed from the waters of the basin, its rich alluvial requiring no manure, but, season after season, yielding its luxu- riant crop. Neither Horton nor Comwallis can be considered properly as a village : the whole is a large settlement, each house having its adjacent farm ; the former is, generally speaking, on the main post road, the latter is situated on the other side of a river, to the north- ward of the said road, on the level plain of dyked land intervening between the road and the North CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 41 Mountain. A part of the former settlement opposite to Cornwallis is called Wolfville ; and consists princi^ pally of beautiful villas — the orchards and gardens surrounding each cottage with the most interesting marks of cultivation. The Mission House is situated in Lower Horton, within a short mile of the shores of the Basin of Minas. It is on a pleasant eminence ; and, opposite to it, but divided by the public road, is the principal chapel — a neat structure, with a well-proportioned spire. At the back of the house there is a beautiful prospect ; Cape Blomidon, in the distance, marks the strait, where the waters of the basin unite with those of the Bay of Fundy. Beyond the Cape, the dis- tant shores of Parrsborough are easily discerned; while, below the hill on which the house stands, the wide sweep of the jGrand Prairie, above two thousand acres in extent, spreads its verdant carpet — the dis- tant zig-zag fences on its surface looking, from this distance, like the tracery of the spider's web, as seen sometimes upon a grassy lawn. Besides the chapel already mentioned, there is one at Greenwick, near the angle of the road which leads to Cornwallis ; another has been lately erected in the pretty village of Kentville. Another is found on the Cornwallis side of the circuit, at Habitant, besides preaching places at Parro, on the mountain Canaan road and the road leading to Windsor. 42 CHAPTER II. On this circuit several extensive revivals of religion have taken place. The labour is now divided between two stationed ministers ; and, ere long, there will un- doubtedly be a division of the circuit, and a mission establishment fonned over the river. Our route now leads us to the road over the Hor- ton Mountain, to ascend which we pass what may truly be called the beautiful valley of the Gaspereaux. A winding river of the same name flows through it, and adds to the beauty of the scene, which is best looked upon after ascending the opposite mountain, when, on turning back, the most extensive, the most diversified, the most interesting landscape in the whole province bursts upon the eye. Immediately below is the vale just mentioned : amidst the beautiful green of its meadows, the serpentine river winds along its course, until it falls into the distant basin. Beyond the valley the whole landscape of Horton and Com- wallis may be literally looked down upon. Beyond this is the Basin of Minas, with its nineteen tributary streams. On the left of the view the horizon is bounded by the North Mountain, terminating in the bold outline of the Cape ; and on the right, the very- low lands of Parrsborough meet with the same, near the centre, and mark the outlet into the bay — the whole scene animated by numerous vessels on the basin, and an occasional steam-boat plying towards Windsor. In advancing on our course towards the CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 43 religion between will un- mission he Hor- lat may pereaux. •ough it, is best ountain, he most [le whole below is il green long its Beyond d Corn- Beyond ;ributary L'izon is ig in the the very ne, near •ay — the I on the towards ards the latter place, after traversing the high lands, and de- scending into the township of Falmouth, we reach the river Avon, on the opposite banks of which the town is situated. Over the river, nearly opposite to the town, there is a bridge of singular construction : it is an American invention, (the property of a Joint-Stock Company) being a covered structure of wood, resting on stone piers, but said, in itself, to be on a self-sup- porting principle. The length of the bridge is not less than 1000 feet — the rise and fall of the tide, at the same place being thirty feet. Windsor is one of the most compact little towns in the province : it is distant, by the post road, forty-five miles from the metropolis; and, from this circum- stance, connected with its being the point at which both the shore roads of the western section of the pro- vince meet, as well. as its convenient water communi- cation with the other province, it is a place of con- siderable bustle and activity, especially in the summer season, during which two steam boats ply between this port and St. John, N.B. By these means passengers arriving in the mail steamers from England in Halifax may some times reach St. John in twenty hours from the latter place ; while, from St. John, a steamer runs twice a week to Boston in the United States. The country around is highly cultivated, and exceedingly beautiful, from the absence of the fogs which preiail so much on the southwestern coast. Fruit trees, in CHAPTER II. this place, are cultilated to great perfection and ad- vantage. The scenery is alternated between the level of dyked lands, and the occasional rising ground covered with rich foliage; the meadows are inter- sected by the river St. Croix, the course of which is hidden by the level of the land around ; and, when the plaister vessels are wending their way to the quar- ries of gypsum, which abound here, they frequently appear in full sail, as though in the very midst of a luxuriant meadow. On approaching the town from Halifax this is a very common occurrence, and the general prospect cannot fail to command attention. The extensive buildings of King's College on an eminence to the left, the episcopal church, and a few really elegant cottages on the right, are within a mile of the town, objects of general notice ; while in the town itself the beautiful elm trees in the streets, and the neat build- ings around, are sufficient favourably to impress the mind of the visitor. The Wesleyan Chapel and Mission house are in the main street, both neat and complete in their ap- pointments, having been much improved durhig the last few years. The Society is large and respectable. The circuit extends to Falmouth on the opposite side of the river, and in the absence of an ordained minister in the adjoining circuit, the incumbent of this has frequently to visit Newport and Shubeuacudie to ad- CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 45 minister the ordinances : the two latter places were lately incorj:>orated witfe the Windsor circuit, assisted by two young men — probationers for the ministry — but they have again been separated, and may demand a separate and passing notice. Newport, Shubenacudie, and Truro. The first- named place has long been occupied, and success- fully cultivated by the Wesleyan Missionary Society. The principal chapel is situated at Oakland. A Mission house was occupied formerly about two miles from this place, but the property has been sold to pro- vide a more suitable establishment near to the chapel just named. The distance of Oakland Chapel from Windsor is seventeen miles by the post road, at the same time, in a direct line, its actual distance is not more than five miles. The discrepancy is occasioned by the intervention of the rapid stream of the river Si. Croix already mentioned, which immediately below this place empties itself into the Basin of Minas, or more properly mingles its waters with those of the Avon in their course thither. If these streams were not subject to the peculiar tidal phenomena of the waters of the Bay of Fundy, there would be no difficulty in crossing and recrossing them in boats, or erecting substantial bridges for public accommodation ; but in these rivers, the St. Croix, the Kennetcook, and the Shubenacudie, thei'e is a rise and fall of from thirty to fifty feet, leaving the bed of m 46 CHAPTER n. the stream nearly dry at low water. This immense efflux and reflux of tide, produces a current of fearful rapidity, travelling at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour, and entirely precluding the possibility of crossing, except either at dead low water, or on the top of the tide. Several accidents have occurred on these rivers, owing to persons venturing to make the attempt at an improper time: there is in fact no danger, when a proper calculation is made, or under the guidance of one accustomed to the circumstances. But such is the impetuous rush of the tide, that after a roaring sound suddenly striking the ear, the first indication of its approach is seen in a wall of water from three to five feet high, rolling in with a rapidity and force which nothing can withstand. Whenever the passage is made at low water, and the state of the tide properly calculated, there may be no real danger, but there is often much positive inconvenience. The sides of the river are a precipitous bank of soft mud, which may be traversed on horseback wihout much difficulty. But my first essay in crossing was in a gig, with a brother missionary as my pilot, to whom habit had familiarised the attempt. We were accompanied by two other missionaries in another gig. These passed down, across, and up the opposite steep before us, in an encouraging manner, and then our turn came. We passed through the deep soft mud of the bank, in going down, very well, and CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 47 crossed the bed of the river without difficulty : indeed we had well nigh attained the summit of the almost perpendicular bank on the other side — the poor horse labouring to the very knees in slimy mud — when, at the very last pinch, either strength or disposition failed him ; for a moment he backed, and in another he plunged round, dashed down the bank, and we were again on the bed of the river, A second at- tempt was equally unsuccessful, though the whip was applied with some energy. The alternative seemed somewhat perplexing ; in a few minutes the tide would return. A walk up the bank was not a matter to be desired, nor would it easily have been accomplished ; but it must have been undertaken, had not one of the friends who had already crossed, volunteered a second descent to our assistance. By this means the diffi- culty was overcome ; and then the other horse brought up his master alone, willingly enough, evidently sig- nifying that he had no inclination to carr}' extra passengers. It is not long since that a minister of another de- noniiuation was attempting to cross the Shubenacudie river, when the tide was too near its turn, and, just when he had reached the midillo of the river, he saw the mass of water rushing in upon him ; hi another moment it was under the wheels of the carriage, and he saved his life alone by springing on the back of the horse, cutting the harness with his knife, and 48 CHAPTER II. SwiiiiBiiBg the horse ashore — leaving his Carriage and higguge to the mercy of the waves. In the Newport Circuit, there are chapels in addi- tion to the one already mentioned— at Meander, at Kennetcook, and at Kempt, besides several other preaching places^ Shubenacudie and Truro are Od the point of receiving a separate establishment, an un- married preacher having been labouring there, for some time, with great success. Openings are found on every side ; the wide and extensive settlements of Douglas, Rawdon, and Truro are as tields white to the harvest ; and already, at Maitland, a Mission House has been erected principally by the liberality of an old and tried friend to the mission cause. Amherst is the next circuit in order upon the minutes. A packet sails weekly from Windsor across the Basin of Minas to Parrsborough, a distance of thirty miles, which is generally accomplished in a single tide. At the landing place there is a very small collection of houses— scarcely amounting to a village. The inhabitants are chiefly dependant for support on their fishing, or obtain employment under an extensive mercantile establishment in ship-build* ing, &c. The shore, at the landing place opposite to the houses, is a gradually shelving beach, no wharf oflFering facilities for stepping on shore, whereas, if such a convenience were ever really desirable, it is wanted here. CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 49 Most persons crossing in the packet boat have an inland journey to perform after they land, and gene- rally have their horse, or horse and light waggon, on board with them, which it is desirable to disembark with as little delay as possible. On one occasion, in travelling to the district meeting, which was to be held at Amherst, I made this passage when we had six or seven horses on board, and as many gigs or light waggons — so many more of the latter, in fact» than the deck of the small schooner could accommo- date, that wt' had liierally to take off the wheels, and stow them in bulk. But it is discharging a cargo like this which forms a matter of the greatest difficulty. If the horses alone required assistance, in the matter of getting ashore, there would be but little trouble, nor indeed much ceremony either; trembhng and snorting he is brought to the gangway, while the vpssel lies at anchor, half a mile from the shore : willing or unwilling makes but little difference; an oar is placed behind him, and, in another second, he is seen in the water, shaking himself after his sudden plunge, and then paddling off to the shore. There is, indeed, a passage up the river, at a short distance from the landing, where there are some apologies for wharfs, and Lo which the vessel is sometimes taken to land the waggons which have been left on board. On the occasion to which I have alluded, we landed about sun-set, leaving both waggons and horses on board. ,Hi 50 CHAPTER II. not wishing the horses to be swum ashore in the even- ing. We were told that the vessel would be round in the river, and at the wharf by ten o'clock, p.m., where we must also be in attendance to claim our own. After waiting the appointed time, we repaired to the place, which we found, with considerable difficulty, in the dark ; but, when we arrived there, we found no vessel at the wharf ; nor was it any where to be seen. After some time, and when our eyes became better used to the darkness, we discovered an object in the river, which proved to be the schooner ; but the hands had been engaged in fishing with some suc- cess, and had delayed weighing anchor too long; so that, having to beat up the river against the wind, when she at length arrived at the wharf we found, to our disappointment, that the tide had risen so far above what we wanted, that the vessel was too high out of water to discharge her cargo on the wharf. Nor was it yet high water, so that we were still obliged to wait until the tide had first risen to its height, and, then receded again sufficiently to bring the deck of the vessel level with the wharf. There was a heavy dew falling, the air was chilly, and no shelter for us but the close cabin of the vessel ; so we preferred lighting a large fire on the beach, and waited as pa- tiently as possible for our release. A little want of patience might still have placed us in difficulties: some attempted to get out the horses before the tide CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCoTIA DISTRICT. 51 he even- round in [., where ivn. >aired to ifficulty, ^e found e to be became n object ler; but >me suc- iong; so le wind, nund, to m so far coo high e wharf. 1 obliged ght, and deck of a heavy r for us 3referred id as pa- want of ficulties : the tide 4 had sufficiently fallen, and one or two fell with vio- lence among the rocks, which ballasted the crazy wharf; but at length our object was completely and safely effected ; and we drove to the house, where we were accommodated, about one o'clock in the morn- ing. By a reference to the Missionary Reports, or Mi- nutes of Conference, it will be seen in the stations, that this village gave its name to the circuit to which we now allude. There was evidently an impropriety in the name ; for, even then, the Mission House and principal chapel were at Meccan, thirty miles distant. Now a change has been effected, which was long felt to be desired. The situation of the Mission House was an isolated one : no surrounding village was near, where the influence of a mission family could be appreciated ; and there was always a great difficulty experienced, in the absence of any regular convey- ance, for obtaining necessary supplies. Under these circumstances, the removal was effected : a most ju- dicious one it was ; for, although it was then some- what nearer the centre of the circuit than now, yet that extent is so great that the difference, in this re- spect, is only slightly felt, and is fully counterbalanced by many other advantages. The circuit is the largest and most unwieldy one in the province, being upwards of a hundred and twenty miles in length, extending, on the shores of 52 CHAPTER II. the Bay of Fundy, to Parrsborough and Advocate Harbour ; thence to Meccan, Nappan, and Amherst. The labour is somewhat relieved latterly, by the em- ployment of a second missionary on its farthest limits. The town of Amherst is one of considerable local importance, possessing several public buildings, in- cluding court house, hotels, and several places of worship. The site on which the town stands is con- nected with one of the most extensive levels in the province : it stands on the edge of the great Tantra- mar marsh, in extent enclosing more than four thou- sand acres, and across which a road runs in a direct line to the boundary of the province, about live miles distant ; and thence to Sackville, where the Wesleyan Academy has been erected, which must be the subject of a future notice. In summer, this extensive plain presents a beautiful appearance : it is seldom broken up with the plough, but is covered with verdure, and supplies vast quantities of hay, and extensive pastur- age grounds for cattle. In the town the friends have lately erected one of the most elegant country chapels in the province : like many others of them, in this country, it has a very neat spire, springing from light arches, which form the belfry : in this instance, which is not com- mon, there is a good-toned bell. The prospect from the belfry is delightful, embracing the distant settle- CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 53 ment of Mimidie, with the waters of Cumherland Basin and Chignuto Bay. It has been already intimated that, in the new arrangement, two preachers are now employed ; and the circumstance of the superintendent residing at Amherst renders it more pleasant, not only from the facilities already alluded to, but because it obviates those difficulties, even now experienced in too many of these circuits, of the brethren being far distant from each other. Many things will necessarily arise, in the course of a year's labour, which render it desirable that personal intercourse, and that not un- frequently, should be maintained between the preacher and his colleagues in the adjacent circuit. The trials of a missionary life may be materially mitigated by mutual counsel and sympathy ; but this is impossible, in many of the circuits, from their great extent. It is not so now, in this station. Within the compass of ten miles the preacher at Amherst may meet with three of his coadjutors at Sackville — two being con- nected with the Academy there, as Governor and Principal, and one stationed on the circuit. He is also equally near to the Point de Bute station. Al- though these belong economically to the district of New Brunswick. He is also very near to the next circuit which claims our notice, which is Wallace. — This also is an extensive and important circuit ; and, although the want of a comfortable resi- M CHAPTER. II. dence for a mission family, has prevented it from being occupied as a married station for some time, this evil is now removed by the erection of a mission house, capable of receiving and accommodating a large family : the Indian name of Ramsheg was, for some time, its designation on the annual list of sta- tions. It is situated on the shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, opposite to Prince Edward Island; and includes, within its limits, the settlements of River John and Puywash. After thus tracing the outlines of the province, from east to west, and coming round now to the north-east section, still advancing to complete the circuit of the whole, it will perhaps be a matter of surprise that, from this circuit, foUowirvg our course through the Gut of Canso, and along the shore to Halifax again, there is only one station more on the whole line occu- pied by the Wesleyan Missionaries : this is at Guys- borough, near to Canso. Portions of the intervenhig coast would have been occupied had there been a sur- plus of labourers in the field, instead of a scanty supply. At the same time, it is not our intention to fall into the error into which some have (perhaps un- wittingly) fallen, and, because these parts are not occupied by us, represent them as entirely destitute. It may be that the absence of a recognition of the efforts of other valuable bodies of labourers, may already, in thesA pages, have awakened the regret of CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 55 some ; and, had we not marked out our ground, and prescribed the limits of this work, it would have been a pleasing portion of our duty so to have done ; but we have an opportunity here, without encroaching on those limits, to state that Picton, on the Gulf shore, is a Scotch settlement, and the Presbyterian fonn of worship prevails throughout the township. At the same time, warm invitations have not been wanting, by some friends, to request the establishment of a Wesleyan Mission here. At other places on this same coast, viz. at Antigonish and at Arichat the Episcopal Church and the Baptists have settled pas- tors and interesting congregations. Guyshorough is situated at the head of Chedabucto Bay, which is computed to be fifteen miles in breadth, and twenty-five miles long, to the entrance of Guys- borough harbour. The latter is a beautiful sheet of water, capable of admitting very large vessels, and sheltered by surrounding hills. Few places possess the attractions of natural scenery, more than the im- mediate neighbourhood of Guyshorough: like most of our mission stations, from the mission house there is a beautiful view of the water. The chapel is con- tiguous to the premises ; the town is small, but neat, the streets crossing each other at right angles ; and, as might be expected from its natural advantages, the fisheries are here carried on with activity and enter- prise. Some idea of their extent and importance I i II 56 CHAPTER II. may be deduced from a fact recorded in Haliburton's history of the province, that in some seasons from eight hundred to one thousand barrels of mackerel have been taken by a seine at one draught, and that in the years 1824 and 1825 the catch, at Fox Island, at the mouth of the harbour, amounted to twenty thousand barrels each year. One missionary is stationed here^ — distant from his nearest brother missionary at Sydney, more than a hundred miles, and upwards of two hundred from any other in the province. \ In pursuing the plan we have laid down, we are now called to leave the limits, of Nova Scotia Proper, and visit the interesting Island of Prince Edward, named after the illustrious parent of the present Queen, who was, for some time, Commander-in- Chief of the forces in this province. The capital of the island is Charlotte Town, distant from Picton, across the straits of Northumberland, about sixty miles. The annual meeting of the preachers, in the Nova Scotia district, was held in Charlotte Town, for the first time, in 1838 : its distance from some other part of the district had hitherto been an obstacle ; but the earnest wishes of numerous friends presented an appeal which could not be denied. It was in proceeding to that meeting that I first had the opportunity of visit- ing this interesting station ; and it was on this journey ■ifVl m CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 67 that I witnessed, for the first time, some of those pe- culiarities, which are calculated to strike the mind of a stranger, as incidental to a new and foreign country. One of these peculiarities was the effect produced in the spring of the year, when, at the breaking up of the winter, the frost leaves the ground. For five months in the year the ground is, generally speaking, in a frozen state : the surface of the road, at such time, is elevated by the action of the frost, as is mani- fest plainly when any large rocks are found in the road. The smaller ones are heaved with the ground itself, but the larger and immovable ones appear sunken some inches below the surface, a considerable fissure being visible in the earth around them. The frost penetrates, in a severe winter, to the depth of a foot, and sometimes more ; and it will be evident that the return to its natural state must exhibit a conside- rable change. Where the ground is swampy, this would be more particularly evidenced, if it were not for the fact that in such places, the road is first made by placing logs --the rough trunks of straight trees — transversely across the road close to each other, covering the whole with a layer of earth. It is not here therefore that the worst features are always seen ; but on the first part of a hilly ascent, where the action of springs imderground is felt, and when the moisture arising from melted banks of snow has been deposited, the 68 CHAPTER II. passage of a vehicle, when the frost is first leaving the ground, produces a singular shaking of the sur- rounding soil ; the whole appears to be of the con- sistency of dough, and it trembles like the surface of a quagmire. When the frost has fully left the ground, this has become still more saturated with moisture, the whole crust has broken up, the panting horses sink up to their knees at eveiy step, the vehicle labours to the very axletree through intense mud of the con- sistency of mortar, travelling is then exceedingly dangerous, sometimes all are mired together, and re- quire extra efforts for their extrication. This was the case indeed on this very road, immediately pre- vious to our arrival. We were pointed to the spot where the stage coach had only two days previously been literally dug out of the mire. This state of the roads however, does not last very long, the very means which appears most likely to render the mass still more liquid, has a directly contrary effect; for the first heavy rain solidifies the mass, beats it down to its proper consistency, and according to provincial phraseology, effectually *' settles the roads." In usual seasons this takes place in the middle of April, but it sometimes takes place earlier, and sometimes it is de- layed till May. Another peculiarity of transatlantic scenery was witnessed also for the first time on this journey, this was what may be truly called, the sudden burst of CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 59 spring — the simultaneous assumption by the wide spreading forests of their vernal dress. For some time previous, the spring rains and warm sun had combined to soften the waxen cerements of the tender bud on the various trees, but as yet not a leaf was to be seen. On the first day of the journey it is true- that the balsam poplar (populus balsamifera) had un- folded—like the blossom preceding the leaf — the graceful tendril which was to expand and burst its cottony tufts in the heat of summer. The wild cherry too (prunus cerisus) with a beautiful blos" m like a cluster of snowdrops — also preceding the foliage — was seen blooming amidst the dry branches around it. The sun had now burst out with surprising strength, so that on the second day's journey the distant forests had a delicate shade of the lightest green, and on the following day they were sufficiently clothed to re- lieve the eye with a beautiful variety of shades, from the lightest to the deepest hue ; while from every grove a thousand welcome notes of wild songsters seemed to join in chorus to say — " The winter is passed, the rains are over and gone, and the time of the singing of birds h come." But it is not the singing of birds only — these digressions of ours are like concentric ngs on the smooth lake, which even the dip of a swallow will occasion, each succeeding one leads wider from the centre, and so with us — the singing of birds reminds *1 60 CHAPTER 11. I I i US of another transatlantic peculiarity, the music of the frogs. The term itself may perhaps provoke a smile, but still the frogs are worthy of the provincial designation they have obtained, they are the nightin- gales of Nova Scotia. I have heard them with all the variety of sounds, and the succession of cadences, so remarkable in the music of the Eohan harp — nor is there any thing overdrawn in this simile— the softness of the flageolet, and the shrillness and clearness of a whistle, might both be adduced as illustrations ; but no language can convey a correct idea. Sometimes on approaching the swamp where the concert is held, if in a wheeled vehicle, when the noise of the wheels is heard, a chirp or two like the note of a bird is heard, and this operates as an alarm — in a moment all is still. Then if the auditor will stay his progress and listen, he will be amply repaid— one single note, v/ith a vibration in the sound similar to that which would be produced by putting a small pea into a flageolet will be heard, low in tone, but distinct and musical, in a second or two this will be followed by a higher note, perfectly according in harmony, then another and another until you have successively solo, duet, trio, quartette, and full chorus. The deep hoarse note of the bull frog occasionally heard like the sound produced by twanging with the finger the thick string of the violoncello. I shall again ask the indulgence of the reader while I refer to another matter, which properly belongs to CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 61 this place, because its novelty at the time was con- nected with the same journey, and though not of the pleasing character, as a peculiarity, it is not less^ worthy of notice. I allude to the plague of the mosquito. On returning from Picton to Truro in the stage, after a weary day's journey we arrived in the latter place late in the evening, and as our party oc- cupied the whole vehicle ; to avoid the necessity of hastening our journey in the heat of the day, we pro- posed to make a very early start the following morn- ing ; accordingly we were on our journey as early as half-past two a.m. It was a mild moist summer's morning, in the third Wv.ek of June, and our conver- sation appeared to turn naturally upon the subject of mosquito invasion, for our road lay through a level swampy country, the very place for the insect's wildest ravages. One of our little company had been nar- rating his sufierings in Newfoundland, on one occa- sion from the same cause, and his account had its effect upon me to make me dread the impending storm, but in this instance my imagination had not outstripped the reality. As day dawned, the Philis- tines were upon us, our enemies were numerous and they were lively. 1 had never ielt their sting before, but the recollection of that morning does not fade ; had there been on their part as on ours, a simulta- neous annual convention, surely wo had arrived at the very time of business. For nearly six hours our con- m 62 OHAPTBR II. versation was restricted to notes of exclamation ; cloud after cloud of the invaders entered the open stage ; our hands were incessantly employed ; our foreheads, faces, head and hands, every accessible part, was assailed without mercy; it was no bloodless war; putting our foes to flight was no conquest ; neutrality was impossible, and we were compelled to the en- counter until the violence of the attack abated on our reaching higher ground. Our friend from Newfound- land hesitated not to admit his former experience was imperfect, and I was so thoroughly tired, that I tied my head over with a handkerchief, and sank on the rough mail bags at our feet, to seek some relief in broken auvl disturbed slumbers. But our progress to Charlotte Town has been too long delayed by these descriptions, yet the distance in narrative is soon accomplished. Picton is one huTidred miles from Halifax, thence by steamer to Charlotte town sixty miles. This lays us alongside the wharf on the Hillsborough, on the shores of which stands this pretty town. The town itself presents an interesting appearance on approaching it from the sea, and this is not lessened by a nearer and more intimate acquaintance. The streets are wide and rectangular, containing several churches belonging to different denominations, with other pul)lic buildings. This being a detached government, possessing its own Lieut. Governor, CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 63 Council, House of Assembly, Judges, &c. it has more public buildings connected with these '-ban are found in most places of the same extend The Government House stands on the left of the town in coming up the harbour, and being surrounded by trees, presents an interesting appearance. The houses in the town are generally detached and surrounded with gardens; the streets are carpeted with greensward ; an air of quiet and retirement appears to pervade all except the immediate business parts of the town, and combines to render it in every respect a desirable place of residence. The climate is colder in winter, and warmer in summer than in Nova Scotia. There is no dense fog ever known to approach its shores, and the whole island is so free from rocks and stones, that it does not furnish a sufficient supply for the making of substantial roads. In one of the principal streets there is a very spacious Wesleyan Chapel, and a commodious resi- dence for the preacher, with a large garden fronting the street. Large and interesting congregations, with an extensive society of members, connect themselves with the cause in this place : where also several local preachers assist in dividing and relieving the labour of the superintendent. There are also chapels in the country parts of the circuit, and several other preach- ing places — the principal are at Little York and Lot Forty -nine ; the latter place is on the other side of the 1 k ■•Vv Akl iaiuv ur « #\ •-V» M\ Tlw ha »rvy\»» \\t\ f 'I tt- u __j iwour is crosscu ■< I a i j|; [ ^w ipp»ffpi|| wW| i Ji!IBi| i JI^^ 64 CHAPTER II. in summer by a boat worked with horses called a team boat, and in winter it is always frozen over and passable for vehicles for some months. Some years since Murray Harbour was occupied as a station, but it has lately been unsupplied with a resident preacher, owing to a deficiency in our num- bers ; it receives, however, occasional visits from the Charlotte Town circuit. The only other station occupied on the island is Bedeque, at the northern extremity, distant from the capital aboui forty miles. Some remarkable fossil remains and silicated trunks of trees have been found at Crapaud, in tins circuit, which place, with Tryon and Bedeque, contains Wesleyan chapels and exten- sive interest. There are several other preaching places, making this, on the whole, a laborious circuit. The residence of the Missionary has lately been removed from Bedeque to Searle Town, where a new Mission House has been built, delightfully situated, and central to the work of the circuit. The only remaining station which calls for our notice in the district is that of Sydney, the capital of the Island of Cape Breton, the great depot for coal, from whence the whole northern part of the continent is supplied. The station is the most remote and most isolated one of the whole, but it is on( of considerable importance. The town itself is pleasingly situated on a small CIRCUITS IN THE NOVA SCOTIA DISTRICT. 66 peninsula of about three hundred acres in extent, it contains several public buildings, and a Wesleyan Chapel and Mission premises — ihere is also a large chapel at the Mines. Other places in the circuit are visited by the missionary at favourable intervals, the access to some of these being by water only. The name of the Ship Harbour Circuit still stands on the Minutes of Conference ; but, like Murray Har- bour, lately mentioned, it is unoccupied, and for the same reason. This closes our review of the stations in this dis- trict. Some of the stations, it will be seen, are very remote from each other ; and it is not improbable that, at a future day, another district may be formed, which may include some of the stations now in the New Brunswick District, on the gulf shore, and the four or live last circuits, which have been described in this short account. The following is the statistical view promised at the commencement of this chapter ; — ir '■< i j.y II i j| ! j i gajpMiij; i ||i ; iM i |{ i ijji i t i; w m i ^6 Persons attending o 8 o o © © © o o i f— 1 © © g ^ © g g 8 Wesleyan Ministry. 05 2 .-^ - O i-N Oi QO 0. l> No. on Trial. c* © © © © © © © 1—4 2 © 'ft 8 t>. CO CO 8 © § CO CO CO QO F>4 No. of Members. O (75 o (N '^ w Oi -* CO CO Tt< (N F^ CO CO '~* ^ No. of Class Leaders. s — <© ^ t» g l> ^ © •o 2 CO i No. of Cfl CO © © ^— © © _, CO Tt* © CO © t^ Sunday School Scholars. © 2 2 in CO CO I— ( CO © (r» Tt* »> 2: No. of Sunday School «5 © l-H w CO CO CO f» (N t^ C^ F-< 5^ © Teachers. »n o c* « (N »o CO CO r— 1 CO CO CO -^ ^ No. of Sunday Schools. © 1— t CO © CO CO CO © © © © 00 !-4 CO No. of Local Preachers. Other preaching places. '^ 1— ' I— 1 00 Chapels. o m CO CO CO CO 1-4 00 1— 1 F— 1 0* _ No. of Missionaries. tS — •-.( o o; iz; a ^ • 1 r pJO (3 13 O o t3 i o 4) V ^ o o sr 73 4-' 01 PQ >* o 'a £.8 a o 2 8 i CO i l-H 50 o H CHAPTER THIRD. PROTRACTED MEETINGS. When he first the work begun, Small and feeble was his day ; Now the word doth swifUy run. Now it wins its widening way. More and more it spreads and grows ; Ever mighty to prevail ; Sin's strong holds it ovethrows, Shakes the trembling gates of hell. Wesley's Hymns. Having attempted iu the preceding chapter to give an outline of the circuits in the Nova Scotia District, it may not be uninteresting to make some allusion to the success which has attended the labours in which the society's missionaries are engaged, and to exhibit the practical working of those means which have been rendered effectual, under God's blessing, to the end designed. Into any merely statistical account there is no neces- sity to enter, as the annual report of the society i.\ja.^:..-iL.j . i ' ^,_j.j....i.!. i .^:m !' j.; ' . ' -»i .i 'i "!-.j i i Bi )jjj«L.j.....i-juimj an»a 68 CHAPTER III. furnishes year by year every requisite information, and to the minutiae of ministerial engagements it is not intended to refer, tacaiisc every circuit in the world will present tho same features of discipline and duty ; it may be only necessary on this head to say, that in this province they are affected by no civil or religious disabilities — but few deeply rooted prejudices prevent their usefulness — their ministry is attended by many of those on whom nearly the highest offices in the state have devolved, and their success and their profit- ing has appeared unto all men, in wmning souls to Christ, as an humble instrumentality in the hands of the great master builder of the church. The design which is more immediately contem- plated, is to present a view of some parts of the moral machinery in operation, which, while it is based on the same principles, and tends to the same results, is more peculiar to transatlantic custom, and some- what different from the geneial custom observed in the societies at home.* It is not that any difference is found in the ordinary and stated services of the Lord's house, but in those extra efforts which are made for the revival of God's work, and the extension of the Redeemer's kingdom. I allude to the success attend- ing the holding of Protracted Meetings (as they are called) during the last few years. The object of these meetings is, to excite an ex- * See note at the end of this chapter. PROTRACTED MEETINGS. 69 tended interest throughout an entire community, on the subject of personal and experimental religion. That there is a difference between the effects resulting from a continuous and unvaried routine of ministerial effort, and the occasional use of extraordinary means, is very evident to any observant mind ; but that ob- jections have arisen, and do still arise from the use of these means, is not attempted to be denied ; nor is it to be concealed, that there are in the minds of some devout men, and devoted ministers, objections to the use of these means of a very senous kind. It is our purpose to devote a few pages to the examination and illustration of the subject, in order that the matter may be exhibited in its proper light. There is a danger, lest in an imprudent advocacy of, or employment of these means, the efficiency of the ordinary means should be depreciated or over- looked, and lest by leading the mind to look at these, (even subordinately to the great source of spiritual invigoration,) as the only means of raising a drooping cause, or by employing their action regularly and statedly season after season, a spasmodic action in spiritual matters should be induced, at variance with that healthful and vigorous tone, which is so desirable in every section of the moral vineyard of the Lord. We look not to, and depend not on, the occasional burst of the thunder shower to supply and keep up the navigation of our rivers, rather to the contiimous I ) 1| 4 i W g g p i :^,..ju: r ^.-4:m c j ! ^;;:«.v 70 CHAPTER III. flow of the distant yet constant spring, fed with its tributary streams ; yet the action of that same shower is important in itself to clear the atmosphere, and to disperse the accumulation of noxious vapours which would be detrimental to both health and life, so there is also a place, both for ordinary and extraordinary means, and our desire is to present their timely use in its proper light, as equally opposed to lethargy on the one hand, and unsanctified action on the other. The Rev. W. M. Harvard, Chairman of the Eastern Canada District, published an excellent and useful sermon some few years ago on the importance of special efforts for the conversion of the souls of men, and the motto with which he prefaces his dis- course is not inaptly selected — it is from Mr. Wesley's ** Appeal to Men of Reason and Religion" — and runs thus, " It should rejoice the hearts of all who desire that the kingdom of God should come, that so many have beuu snatched already from the mouth of the lion, by an uncommon, though not unlawful way." In entering upon the defence of special efforts, Mr. Harvard clearly and plainly defines the difference between ordinary and extraordinary means, with their relative importance, and shews the character of the extra efforts as combining to bring to bear " the Word of God and prayer," on the conversion of sinners, and the spread of scriptural holiness throughout the world. PROTRACTED MEETINGS. 71 His main argument in justification of these special efforts is divided between the efforts of secular men to promote any earthly object, with the deplorable state of the world, the defective state of the Church, and the precepts and precedents of God's word in connec- tion with the Divine willingness to sanction such efforts with his blessing. An extract from the first part of the argument may suffice to shew the animus of the whole. He says " Suppose a railroad, or any other concern tending to the public good, and present- ing a desirable and advantageous opportunity for the employment of capital. Suppose that by some means or other shareholders are not obtained in sufficient numbers to meet the unavoidable demands of the Board of Directors. Can we imagine that such in- dividuals would be content with, and confined to the mere regular meetings prescribed by the constitution of their corporation ? Would it not be highly pro- bable that there would be special, and repeated, and even * protracted ' meetings of the board for the con- sideration of ways and means ? Does it appear un- likely, under circumstances of general misapprehen- sion of the nature of the speculation, that even a deputation would be employed to visit different places, to call meetings, and by means of the public journals to enlighten and prepossess the public mind in favour of the undertaking ? Should we wonder, or, were we ourselves interested in its success, should we be dis- '1 ,' m=^ mmmm 72 CHAPTER III. pleased to behold the words ' railroad company ' whenever we opened a newspaper, or turned the comer of a street ? Would the men of the world condemn this display of commercial zeal as ' most unreason- able, fanatical, and enthusiastic,' as absolutely carry- ing the matter too far ? Now, they do it to obtain a corruptible crown, but we an incorruptible ! " The religion of Jesus Christ furnishes the only means of ascertained communication with the regions of the blessed ! It is no uncertain contrivance of short sighted man, but an unerring revelation from the Eternal God ! Never, in a single instance, has it disappointed a real and sincere experiment. In itn returns of advantage it is unparalleled. It is known to be ' profitable unto all things, having the promise of the life that now is, and also of that which is to come.' By the bestowment of present peace and purity, it rationally pledges a future recompence, ' a treasure in the heavens, that fadeth not.' Its ten- dency thus to bless, is demonstrated, at this very moment, in all the various climates of our globe, and under almost every possible diversity of humar con- dition. Nevertheless, to use a mercantile phrase, * it really does not take with the public mind.' " Again, the visible Church spiritually resembles an important trading company, whose weight of debt is already immense, and whose most prosperous and successful letums, absolutely fail to prevent the con- PROTRACTED MEETINGS. 73 tinual augmentation of that debt. Its friends may well take the alarm and be most special in their efforts, since the ordinary instrumentality has proved to be so insolvently deficient. This state of things must become still more alarming, unless some extraordinary exertions are made, and upon a very extended scale ! Our affairs can no longer be concealed. How can we ourselves revert to them without feeUng that we bear GUV reproach, and hailing, with thankfulness, any agency which may aid the common treasury ? In these circumstances, an ungodly world, vain in its own undisputed majority, is emboldened to treat with contempt a moral corporation, whose charter has actually received the signature of Heaven ! It dares to deny that our sanctions are divine ! It rejects, with scornful and malignant disdain, the offer of our most invaluable securities. Our very credit is at stake, and with the reputation of the Church, are involved the eternal destinies of the universe." These extracts are sufficient to shew the character of the arguments employed in defence of special efforts in religion, and the author goes on still more forcibly to appeal in favour of such from the deplorable state of the world, and especially of what is often con- sidered the enlightened part of it, whose ** out-of-door services" and "protracted" meetings on the race ground and at the theatre, are notoriously " special efforts" to secure the destruction of the soul, and to I V |: ,. t ' I -i j. f ;- mi ¥. ii : II I Bl II I I 74 CHAPTER III. enlarge the boundaries of Satan's dominion. The im- portance of the extracts may justify their length, and, certainly, the experience of the last few years will cor- roborate the truthfulness of the argument, while per- sonal experience of the results themselves, will fully justify the importance of the means. It is not expected that these extra means can be successfully employed in a merely mechanical manner, at any given time. These meetings cannot, therefore, be appointed prospectively by requiring the attendance of a deputation at some particular period of the future, according to the plan usually adopted by us in arranging for our annual missionary meetings. But, in connec- tion with stated and regular ministrations, how fre- quently does it occur that there are signs of approach- ing revivification, manifested by an increased and more regular attendance at the means of grace— seen in the anxiety of individuals here and there apparently wrought upon by the Spirit, as a spirit ot conviction, to enquire after salvation. In the renewed activity and zeal of professors, all auguring that a brighter day is about to dawn ? Under these circumstances all feel mutually encouraged, prayer becomes more ardent, faith more energetic, love more abounding, expectation stands on tiptoe, the trees are moved with the refreshing breeze, and the sound of a going is heard through all their branches. Such periods as these, mark the acceptable time for holding a protracted PROTRACTED MEETINGS. 75 meeting, and frequently the very announcement of the intention, is not without its effects. I had heard of the success attending these measures for some time before I had an opportunity of witness- ing the blessed effects myself, but when I was called to enjoy the privilege, the result exceeded all my anticipations, and effectually commended the wisdom of the measure to my judgment and to my heart. In ihe autumn of the year 1839, I was appointed as one of a missionary deputation to the Newport Circuit, and left the metropolis for Windsor, a few days previous to the time appomted for our meetings, to secure a little relaxation after severe mental labour, when, on the road, and within ten miles of the end of my journey, I was met by a zealous and active brother in the ministry, who, aware of my intention of travel- ling on that day, had thus intercepted me on my route, to carry me off' to assist at a protracted meeting, which they had been holding then for some days at a settle- ment called Kennetcook, in the Newport Circuit. I told him how much I needed rest rather than labour, but he pointed to the carriage, named the distance, only fourteen miles, and promised me scenes of in- terest, to labour in connection with which, would supersede the necessity of that rest I had been desirous to choose. His arguments prevailed upon me, and in a very short time we were journeying along in a different direction, myself a willing captive. •ii « ..^MMppfpiMppi im 76 CHAPTER III. and an interested listener to the narative he unfolded connected with this meeting. On our way we were overtaken by night, but only a short time before we were at our journey's end. About half a mile from the place we met a light waggon loaded with friends, who soon recognised us, told us a large congregation was waiting for us ; and I then learned from them, for the first time, that in a few minutes I should be before a congregation as their preacher; my zealous frier having not only anticipated his design upon me, but announced also, on the preceding day, that I should preach this even- ing. On reaching the place, we found upwards of forty vehicles, with horses, attached to the usual zig- zag fence, near the chapel, round the door of which a dense crowd was assembled — a prelude to the throng within, where the people were so closely packed, that it was with the utmost difficulty they could give way sufficiently for me to pass through to the pulpit. Some idea of the manner in which it wus filled may be formed from the fact that, until the next day, I had no idea that the cliapel was divided into pews. The interest of the meeting might be said to have reached its climax — having been held from the pre- ceding Wednesday, (this was Monday) two or three services occupying each day ; that interest, as it was felt, may be inferred from the fact, that, for one enliro week, all business in the settlement was suspended. PROTRACTED MEETINGS. 77 while accessions from the surrounding country were arriving each day : and, as to the results, it was stated to me aftei*wards, by one who was well able to ascertain the fact, being an inhabitant of the place, that not only was every household visited with deep concern on the subject of experimental religion, but that only one or two individuals of adult age, in the whole settlement, remained unconverted. To return to what 1 personally witnessed, on this occasion, while preaching on the evening on which I arrived there; a breathless silence, inteiTupted only by deep sobs, hung over the assembly ; but when this part of the service was succeeded by exhortation and appeal from other ministers who were present, accom- panied with earnest prayer, and then an invitation addressed to those who were desirous of salvation to corae forward to the rails of the communion as sub- jects for special prayer in their behalf — a heaving was visible in the whole assembly, and presently indi- viduals, detaching themselves from the mass, with difTiculty pressed forward, until they were bowed three deep around the altar, kneeling in prayer, and weep- ing bitterly, though accompanied with no extravagance of expression. A deep solemnity rested upon the minds of all preset : the congregation ap])eai'ed unanimously interciHte!, as well as the postulants, many of whom enteied into the glorious liberty of the people of God, and praised the Lord with joyful lips. It*. 1 i 78 CHAPTER III. I was, on this occasion, made fully sensible where the peculiar advantages of such meetings lie. There is a combination both of talent and of faith brought to bear on a given point, by the employment of diffe- rent persons, both ministers and laymen, each suc- ceeding the other in exhortation and prayer. Each meeting is commenced, generally, with a short ser- mon ; some remark forms a subject for enlargement by a following speaker ; new ideas are thrown out ; new light is poured upon the subject ; appeals are forced home, and desires are awakened ; above all, the Spirit of God, working above all, through all, and in all, gives efficiency to the means ; and, like the com- parison between inefficient and widely-extended skirmishing on the battle field, contrasted with the concentrated effi3rts of united battallions making a determined charge, — so, by these united and pro- tracted effi)rts, effiicts are produced which are seen after many days. The objections, also, which may arise in the mind, to the apparently mechanical arrangement of bringing those who are seeking mercy to a given place to obtain the same, recede before the investigations of reason and experience. What is the main hinderance often experienced in bringing the mind to " give up all for Christ ?" It is the resistance of the will, and the disposition to indecision and to procrastination. Here the point is gained — a step is taken, a decision made ; the principle is that of order, PROTRACTED MEETINGS. 79 not of confusion. Persons under the same class of feelings are brought together to one point, where action is concentrated, and experience, in a thousand instances, has proved its tried advantages. On the following morning there was preaching in the same place, followed by similar means and similar results. There was an interval of time allowed in the middle of the day for rest and refreshment, a meeting for the relation of Christian experience in the after- noon, and preaching again in the evening. This was the most extraordinary time for the outpouring of God's Holy Spirit that I ever witnessed. The cries of wounded hearts could, with difficulty, be repressed, during the first part of the service — a riveted atten- tion prevented them during the delivery of the ser- mon, with the exception of an occasional burst of feeling ; but, during the after portion of the meeting, the eflfects produced baffle all description. " Come ! Holy Ghost, and fill the place." is often sung by us in our congregations and meetings for prayer ; but I have seldom seen it so fully mani- fested. The appointed place was^fiUed with weeping penitents, prayer and exhortation were constantly kept up, while, at the same time, some in an under tone were offering advice and direction to the penitents. When we knelt for prayer, a most powerful influence prevailed. At one time ten or twelve persons arose at once, as though one gust of the Holy Spirit's ' n f. p 80 CHAPTER III. quickening power had simultaneously burst their bonds, their places being quickly filled with others as they retired. Some most affecting scenes were wit- nessed — here might be seen joyful and happy youths leading up their aged parents — there husband and wife overwhelmed with joy, finding that they had, un- known to each other, sought and found the pearl of great price at the same time. I noticed, especially, two young men, captains of vessels, lately returned from sea ; they rose from their kneeling posture at the same moment, both happy in the Lord, each one ignorant that the other was there. Companions to- gether in youth, and associates in youthful folly, when their eyes met, and each saw the other happy, they rushed into each other's arms with exclamations of joy, and wept aloud, together resolving henceforth to steer by the same chart, and seek the haven of eternal rest above. Let it not be imagined that these scenes have never been witnessed, or similar effects produced, except at protracted meetings. We claim not a distinction in results ; it is not that the effects are different ; but, in the means employed, there is a wider field of action occupied, more immediate energy employed, and attended with more extensive success. This meeting continued throughout the week, but, on the following day, I was under the necessity of leaving, to fulfil those duties, for which I had left my PROTRACTED MEETINGS. 81 circuit for a time ; thankful, however, for the oppor- tunity thus afforded for witnessing the first protracted meeting, which had come under my own personal observation. Since the period here referred to, many engage- ments of a similar kind have added delightful experi- ence of the value of these meetings. I have also seen and mourned over " fields white unto harvest," where, through a scarcity of labourers, such meetings could not be held, and where opportunities of good — if not altogether lost — have been delayed for a con- siderable time. The autumn and winter of 1842 were very remarkable seasons on the south-west coast of Nova Scotia. It appeared that there was not one station occupied on the shores between Halifax and Yarmouth, but what was visited with showers of divine influence in an unusual degree. When it is stated, that, at the ensuing District Meeting, there were twelve hundred additional members announced as the year's increase, including of course, those on proba- tion, it will be admited that some heavenly unction rested both on the labourers and on the work. Most of these were gathered into the fold as the immediate fruit of protracted meetings ; in some places these lasted nearly a fortnight, and many remarkable in- stances of conversion might be narrated in connection therewith. As a proof of ihe general extent of the influence o I • t 82 CHAPTER III. which prevailed sometimes through an entire settle- ment, I may state that in the Yarmouth circuit, where the roads are thickly settled for as much as eight miles in extent on the eastern shores of the harbour, there was scarcely a house unvisited ; every denomination appeared to be favoured alike — all fell in with the spirit of revival, and acted in concert for the general good : prayer meetings were held in almost every house, and such was the general scope of the con- vincing influence of the Spirit of God, that on re- turning home from the country late at night, I have heard persons wrestling in prayer with God alone in the woods and fields, and on one occasion I was stopped on the road with sounds of grief— found per- sons seeking religion on the way side, and was com- pelled in pity for their distress, late as it was, and wearied as I felt, to go with them to the nearest house and hold a prayer meeting in their behalf. ■** Many remarkable instances of the blessed results of protracted meetings are familiar to my own mind, but I do not intend to trespass upon the patience of my readers with more than one instance, and this shews perhaps as clearly as any, that good has resulted from these special efforts, which ordinary means might have failed to accomplish. It was determined that some preachers and lay friends should meet at a certain place to hold a series of meetings of the kind referred to, and when they arrived there, it occurred that one VROTRACTED MEETINGS. 8a of the preachers and a zealous lay friend preferred going to a house of entertainment to secure lodgings for themselves and their horses, rather than he too great a hurden upon the friends, as well as to he near each other, the houses in the settlement heing some- what scattered. Their visit appeared a source of wonder to the landlord of the house, who, after some time, fell into conversation with them, and soon learned more ahout protracted meetings than he had ever known hefore. He was very curious to know all ahout the matter, and was minutely informed of the manner of conduct- ing them, and told of the effects which had heen witnessed in the neighbouring settlement. To him it was strange news — " he never went to meeting at all" — it was hinted that it was not impossible but that if he went he might be brought under concern for his soul, but he had heard with such astonishment that those who were thus convinced, generally went up to be prayed for, that he was sure such a case would never be his — he ridiculed the very idea. Notwithstanding this he went to hear the preparatory sermon that evening. When the friends returned, they asked to be permitted to have family worship, and it was with some reluctance conceded. The family, under whose roof they were providentially found, was prayed for, and they retired to rest. The next day's services were of the ordinary kind, preaching and prayer; U ! !:^' ; f .' {■'i'. m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) m /. :/, 1.0 I.I 12.8 150 mm HA 1^ III 2.5 ll? 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 16 ^ 6" — ► '/a m. e. c*l /J. e. "> > M 7 PhotDgraphic Sciences Corporation v # iV ;\ \ ?^v '";. <» ^ ^-^- 23 WIST MAIN SIRiiT WnSTIRNY 145*0 (716) iri^^os o'^ 4^ V #?- J 128 CHAPTER V. grandfather was a pious man, tall and good looking J her cousin was the companion of her childhood, one whom she tenderly loved, and who had heen removed hy death only a short time previous. It will form a striking sequel to the whole, to add, that in the dream which she had prior to her conviction, as mentioned in the commencement of this narrative, she thought she was visited hy her cousin, who appea'red as an angel, and who presented her with a scroll, written in strange and unknown characters, requesting that she would sing the words to a favourite tune ; she thought she replied, that she knew not the language, when he told her that it was " the song of Moses and the Lamb," that she must immediately learn it, that they might be able to sing it together. This she then regarded as the presentiment of approaching death. These facts will be left to speak for themselves; the accumulation of such testimony is in harmony with the narratives of the sacred and inspired volume ; we have there both example and precept, and in con- formity thereto, the Christian Church preserves among its records, the perseverance of saints, and their triumph in and over suffering, to stimulate others to be "followers of them, who, through faith and patience, inherit the promises." Our present design will be accomplished when we have traced the outlines of another nan'ative, present- ing " a diversity of working, but the same Spirit." 1' I GRACE IN DEATH. id9 The individual whose history, as it regards more particularly the close of her life, we would now pre* sent to the reader, was an inhabitant of the same place, and a member of the same Christian commu- nity ; the daughter of one, who, for many years, has held, and still holds, the important office of instruc- tion, which devolves upon those who are called " Class Leaders" in the Wesleyan Society. She was born in the year 1812 ; her disposition was amiable, and her general deportment commendable, through the suc- cessive periods of childhood and youth. It is known to her most intimate friends that she was, in very early life, the subject of religious impressions; but she was not made savingly acquainted with the truth, as it is in Jesus, until she had attained the twentieth year of her age^ Five years previous to this, she had been visited with incipient symptoms of that disease, which carried her at last to the grave. This affliction prevented her from mingling in the gay scenes of youth, and checked those dispositions, which would otherwise have been met by the restraints of parental controul. At this period, too, she was frequently the subject of serious impressions; but they were transient and evanescent — *' like the morning cloud, and the early dew." In the year 1832, her mind was again brought under deep concern ; under the preaching of the word she was led to see herself a sinner, and to K M Zlt ^^-^ ■ .^ ■■■■'■ a g a — . 1 i j i M i — M^ fLi;"j" 130 CHAPTER V. seek for mercy, through the merits of a crucified Redeemer. It may be here remarked that, in the matter of re- ligious experience, she, at all times, felt great difficulty in expressing herself, even to her most intimate friends ; and, although this was removed most satis- factorily, in the last part of her sickness, yet, at this time, it prevented any individual from knowing much respecting the secret workings of her mind. It was well known that she was deeply exercised ; her regular retirement for prayer in private was noticed with gratitude to God, by a pious and anxibus mother. A little conversation with an intimate friend took place shortly after, but nothing was elicited, until the month of January, in the year above named, when, at a prayer meeting held in the school-room adjoining the chapel, one Monday evening, she ven- tured publicly to approach the throne of grace, with others, as a penitent seeking salvation, to be made a subject for special application at the footstool of divine mercy. In this exercise she obtained some comfort, some slight alleviation of mental anguish ; but it was after- wards, in the retirement of her own room, that she received a clear sense of God's pardoning mercy, and was enabled to rejoice in his salvation. In the follow- ing week she united herself with the Wesleyan So- ciety, and on the first sabbath of the following month. GRACE IN DEATH. 131 after many struggles of mind from diffidence and fear, but under the affectionate guidance and advice of a Christian friend, she ventured to approach the table of the Lord, and partake of the eucharistic emblems of his dying love. Her change was not announced to her family by any verbal communication ; it exhibited itself in her serious deportment, her devout cheerfulness, her evi- dent satisfaction and peace of mind, and her well known retirement for private devotion; at the same time, those more immediately associated with her in Christian fellowship, as her class mates, well knew that she now was walking " in the fear of the Lord, and in the comforts of the Holy Ghost." These remarks will be amply sufficient to present an outline of her character and situation, till within a period of twelve months prior to her removal by death. For some time previous, the symptoms of her disease had considerably abated, and there appeared to be a fair prospect that her life might be prolonged to a dis- tant period ; but these favourable appearances were very shortly diminished. During the summer of 1839, she had again premonitory symptoms of ap- proaching suffering (her complaint that of white swelling in the knee) ; but, although she suffered much from pahj, at intervals, it was not until the 17th day of November that she was obliged to acknowledge 'V ill m HI I ■--■'~ ,^,t!L:vv,r,w:i)i' ' ) i jLj|Hj,iLjiuj iij~a •HSW" 132 CHAPTER V. herself an invalid, and from that time she was entirely confined to her room. It was a few days after this that I first visited her as a patient, and then I did not anticipate a fatal re- sult. I was surprised, therefore, to find her particu- larly agitated and affected ; indeed, the more so, be- cause of her usual equanimity of disposition. This, I afterwards ascertained, did not arise from fear ; but from a certain conviction of the fatal character of her malady; and, connected with this, a determination, by a powerful effort, to overcome a natural diffidence in communicating her thoughts and feelings on the subject of Christian experience. This she could not do in the presence of a third party, for when, in the presence of another, I asked a question of spiritual import, I found her features working convulsively, under the pressure of violent emotion. After a pause, I repeated the question, and the same effect was pro- duced ; but when I spoke to her in a lower tone, as she lay upon the couch, after a great struggle, she told me she wished for conversation with no other auditor present, and then stated her reason, declaring her utter inability to open her mind in the presence of any one else. In this matter she was immediately gratified; she obtained the victory over her natural tendency to entire reserve, and frequently afterwards, during her sickness, alluded to this period, and said, " If I had not overcome my feelings then, I never 1 GRACE IN DEATH. 133 coiild have dec ) it afterwards ; and, then, how much happiness would I have lost, and perhaps religion too. At this time, also, she ftilly explained the state of her mind, unfolded her Christian experience, declared her need of a deeper work of grace in her heart, and pro- fessed her full determination to give herself wholly unto God. A short time after this, she alluded to the last oppor- tunity she had of meeting in class, and the circum- stances are here introduced as presenting a fine illus- tration of Christian duty in resisting temptation, as well as an encouragement to others, perhaps similarly situated at times, to follow the same plan. On the 13th day of November — four days preceding her sick- ness — she did not experience any particular intima- tion of approaching trial ; but she felt a peculiar and distressing hesitancy about going to her class at that particular time ; it was not from any disrelish for the means itself; on the contrary, this was that in which she took the greatest delight — which she most par- ticularly valued ; nor was it usual for her to omit or neglect this duty, for she was scrupulously regular in her attendance : but it was a device of the enemy, in which Satan tried to gain an advantage. After a painful strnggle, she resolved to go, and she did so, it was the very last time she ever had an opportunity to attend the social means of grace; and often did she remark afterwards how much food for bitter re- :r -rm^yv^'mmmtm 134 CHAPTER V. flection this would have given her, during her pro- tracted sickness, had she, on this occasion, yielded to the suggestions of the enemy, and neglected to attend. During the course of a long affliction, many were the interviews in which, in most interesting conversa- tions, she showed her deep anxiety for all the mind that was in Christ; although it was a considerable drawback to the general interest of these scenes, that, for more than three months, she could not open her lips to speak, in the presence of a third party, and even the nurse had to vacate her post, before her mind could exercise itself in divine things, except in silence; especially was it a subject of grief to her pious mother, who longed to hear the conversations reported to her, and which she partially enjoyed her- self while listening at the purposely opened door. I felt it to be a duty to attempt to overcome this feel- ing, and frequently spoke to her upon the subject ; at last it was determined, with her own approval, that the effort should be made. It was arranged that her mother should enter the room while she was speaking, she being prepared to expect it, and determined, if possible, to overcome her feelings. I was listening to a description of her enjoyments — her present peace and future hopes — when her voice suddenly ceased, and her countenance became rigid ; she essayed in vain to utter a word. A mother's anxious face peered GRACE IN DEATH. 135 through the curtains of the hed,and was again obliged to withdraw, when she saw the emotion which her entrance had occasioned. Although this attempt proved abortive, a determined resolution, and a subsequent effort, were, in the end, successful, and she afterwards spoke freely in the presence of numbers of her friends. There is some little difficulty in explaining this peculiarity, and yet how often is it, more or less, exhibited in ordinary Christian life. Is it not a much more general thing than it is usually supposed to be ? Such is the opinion I have been led to form from pretty close ob- servation. It is a matter not frequently alluded to, because individuals think themselves to stand alone in such feelings ; yet such is not the case. Members of the same family find a greater difficulty in speaking to each other on the subject of experimental religion, than they do to others more remotely connected with them. On other topics, their joys and sorrows are openly expressed and well understood ; but here there is concealment and difficulty. Is it not a master stroke of policy in the arrangement of temptations, a matter whieh it should be our study diligently to as- certain and remove ? After the time, when this difficulty was taken out of the way, those who had the privilege to unite, in supplicating the throne of grace around her bed, ex- perienced seasons of refreshing from the presence of '1 ^^^^SSSi»«3H?''^i!?S°*53? r^Ze^sssyrsstTntzir: m CHAPTER V. the Lord, which will not easily be forgotten : it ap- peared at times, tliat " prayer ardent opened heaven ; streams of rich glory were poured upon the conse- crated hours thus spent in audience with the Deity." From some memoranda which I made at the time, I shall be enabled to present, in detail, the most re- markable of those fects, which came under my obser- vation, and which, I trust, may be both interesting and profitable to the reader. In the early part of Februaiy, her sickness assumed a determined form—her knee was opened in large sloughing sores continually discharging, and the pain of dressing these sores was most excruciating, while convulsive attacks at intervals, marked the sure and fatal progress of the malady, and made it evident that she must soon sink under the severe sufferings which she endured. About this tipie I found her, on one occasion, unusually agitated, ftnd she expressed a wish to ask advice on a very important subject, the next day. When I called to see her, I found her anxiety proceeded from this source; her medical attendant had proposed amputation above the knee, as the only remaining chance for restoring her to her friends. It was a matter of some difficulty to offer advice upon, as I did not feel justified in acceding to an opinion she expressed, namely, that she would rather die under her present circumstances, than yndergo the operation with the prospect of its bein^ in vain at last. I asked GRACE IN DEATH. 137 her if she did not think that she had had sufficient in- timation from her own feelings, that the disease had e::tended itself beyond the reach of the knife ; and when this was mentioned, she appeared satisfied that such was the case. On the following day she assured me, with apparent joy, that she had £;ufFered much pain in ihe hip-joint, during the night, and that when she mentioned this to the doctor, he had given up the idea of amputation. Thus was her mind relieved from this anxiety, and left to engage its attention alone with things heavenly and divine. The following remarks are taken from the memo- randa alluded to, and in the order in which the events occurred. February 6, — She remarked that she had been making some little arrangements in the prospect of her approaching death, that she felt she had now done with the world, and that she was calm, and peaceful, and happy. I asked her if she felt that *' the blood of Jesus Christ eleansqd her from all sin P" she replied, " that is just what I ^|vmt, I want to feel that." I urged her to look for and expect, a present full salvation. She repeated the twenty-ihird Psalm— dwelt fully on the fourth verse— spoke freely of her approaching dis- solution—and with reference tp this great salvation, said, " Christ is able to save me fully, and I believe h^ is willing also." I asked her why she could not M i 4i y '5 1 ' ,1 « i m 1 m 2r^^2£^^^ 138 CHAPTER V. apprehend that he was ready now to do it ? she said, " It is my unbelief." I pointed her to that verse — " 'Tis done ! thou dost this moment save, With full salvation bless j Redemption through thy blood I have, And spotless love and peace." She was very fervent in prayer, and experienced much of the power and presence of God. Between this period, and one week later, she sought and found the blessing she desired. She did not receive it as she expected ; but when she was describ- ing, one day, in remarkably strong and nervous lan- guage, her total freedom from fear, and the increased absorption of her soul in the love of God, I suggested, that this might be the very blessing she had desired, " perfect love casting out fear," and that if she exer- cised faith in Christ's power thus to save, she would receive the witness in herself that he " cleansed her from all unrighteousness." She eagerly caught the idea, her soul seemed resting in full and entire confi- dence in Christ, a few moments passed in unbroken silence, her heart was melted down before the Lord, as wax melteth before the fire, her eyes filled with tears of joy, she began to extol the praises of redeeming love, obtained clearly, and from that hour, never lost the evidence of sanctifying grace. The humbling views which she entertained of her- self were very striking, she had always indeed been. GRACE IN DEATH. 139 not only reserved, but retiring in her natural disposi- tion, and this now exhibited itself in feelings of self- abasement and humiliation. She had casually heard, that a funeral sermon had been preached on the death of an individual belonging to the society, and she ex- pressed a desire that no funeral sermon should be preached at her death. Some one present remarked, that sometimes a voice would speak more strongly from the grave, to the hearts of the living ; on this she appeared lost in thought for a few moments, then she said " Oh ! no ; it must not be. I could not bear the thought of being publicly alluded to; nothing good can be said of me." It will be seen in the sequel, however, that on this point her opinions sub- sequently underwent some change. February 14 — She said, " I awoke this morning, saying, * Bless the Lord, Oh my soul !'" On asking her respecting the blessing of perfect love, she stated, that she now no longer doubted but that the Lord had fully sanctified her soul ; and then she added, *' I always thought that when the Lord gave me this great blessing, he would enable me to say something for him, to others, for their good, (referring to some of her immediate friends.) I knew that without this grace, I could not feel courage so to do ; but last evening I called to and asked him if he knew that I should soon die, and whether he felt that he could give me up ; he replied that he would endeavour ti W ilW lY 'il mmmM 140 CHAPTER V. to be resigned, if such was the will of God. I told him then, that I should die happy if he would promise me that he would serve the Lord ; he told me, witli emphasis, that he would ; I then spoke as loud as I could, and said, but you must promise me to begin now, he gave me the promise, and I felt very happy." She also said, " I am now just waiting for the Lord to call me, it cannot be long, but his time is the best." Though extremely weak, she was much animated when engaged in prayer, and at all times she spoke of her death, with as much calmness and composure, as if it were but a journey of this life, instead of a tran- sition into the eternal world. February 1 7. — She lay in an agony of pain all the day, and when I saw her in the evening, her face was convulsed, so that she could not speak, After praying with her, and being about to retire, she detained me by the hand a moment or two, until, after a painful effort she said, " This cannot last long." I replied, " You can still rest in confidence on your Saviour ?" she answered, " Yes ! I can." On the following day she appeared comparatively easy, although she had passed a sleepless night ; but before I left her she had a violent spasm, and when it had passed away, she said with a smile " The pain of life shall there be o'er, The anguish and distracting care ; There sighing grief shall weep no more, And sin shall never enter there." GRACE IN DEATH. 141 In the afternoon of this day she had a series of violent spasms or convulsion fits, and it was thought that her end was approaching. I was called out of the pulpit in the evening, (my colleague kindly continuing the service,) and on hastening to her hedside, I found it surrounded with weeping friends, she said, " Jesus is very precious," but her voice appeared almost gone. I thought if this was the last scene, her own dying testimony to the value of religion would be calculated to produce a deep and lasting impression for good, upon some that were present, and, seeing that she had the use of her speech, of which she had been par- tially deprived before, I said, " You can recommend to all your friends, to seek that religion which now supports you P" when, to the astonishment of all, she raised her head from the pillow, saying in quite a loud tone of voice, *' Oh ! I beg of you all to seek the Lord with all your hearts, seek the Lord now, Oh ! seek him without delay." She was then quite ex- hausted, but continued to speak in a whisper of the peace which she felt and enjoyed. The Lord was very near while we solemnly com- mended her to him in prayer, little thinking that several weeks of suffering were yet lo be endured. February 19. — She had several violent spasms during the night past, but before day -break this morn- ing she was heard to sing Ji 142 CHAPTER V. " What is there here to court my stay Or hold me back from home j While angels beckon me away, And Jesus bids me come." I saw her about eleven o'clock, she lay quite easy, free from pain, but very weak. I asked her if the Lord was precious, she answered, " very." I spoke to her of the trial of faith, and she said, ** I have felt all morning that I could say, " My hope is full, (Oh glorious hope !) Of immortality." Then she was seized with violent convulsions of the most distressing kind, her groans were piercing, and her struggles violent; she then partially recovered, then had another attack, after which she revived. I had for a minute been standing aside, but I now went forward, when she smiled very fahitly, and whispered, " Absent from the body, present with the Lord," imme- diately she was convulsed again. When I visited her in the evening, I found that she had had one of those remarkable visitations which 1 have before witnessed under similar circumstances, and which was again repeated before I left. I do not attempt to offer any explanation, for I am unable to do so, 1 only describe what 1 saw, and I do think that the most sceptical mind would have been convinced, (if present on this occasion) that it was no mental hallucination merely, while the Christian believer must hail it as a lively commentary upon that passage, ' are they not all GRACE IN DEATH. 143 ministering spirits, sent forth to minister for them who shall be heirs of salvation." Perceiving an unusual motion in her lips and eyes, the nurse took up her extended hands, apprehensive that she was about to have another fit, but inytead of being convulsed as before, she put aside the offered help, and slowly lifted up her right hand, her whole countenance being lighted up with supernatural bright- ness, and pointing upwards with her finger, she said softly, " There they are— they are waiting for me— I shall soon '3ome ; I will, I will." She then turned and said, '* Don't you see them— they are waiting for me — they are all there." The whole room appeared to be filled with the divine presence. We appeared to be standing on the margin of the invisible world, the eye straining to catch a glimpse of its glory, the ear listening for its choral symphonies. She seemed to be conversing in a whisper, and we caught the sound of it, saying, " I shall soon be with you. Come ! Come!" She also mentioned the name of a dear departed friend, as though she either saw her, or was calling for her. She lay after this for an hour in a most delightful frame, clasping her hands together and praising the Lord. During the whole progress of her malady, she was mercifully preserved from severe assaults from the enemy of her soul, yet she was not altogether free from temptation, for when I saw her again after one I ',' it t U: >i 144 CHAPTER V. of the spasmodic attacks, she said, " When that last struggle was over, Satan came, and told me that I should never see those angels again, nor Jesus Christ, neither should I go where they are : I told him to be gone, and now all is peace." She then asked us to sing, and reaching the hymn book, she opened on page 198, and desired us to sing that hymn, in which she joined with fervour as well as she was able. February 20, — This morning, after a night of re- freshing slumber, she was quite free from pain, and iil an inexpressibly happy state of mind ; in the evening she appeared again to hold communion with the in- visible world, and to us, who had the privilege of being present, it was a most interesting season. I went down after the prayer meeting, and found her very happy ; she had had two delightful views of attendant angels. After some time, she asked "if there had been any music in the house," and on being answered in the negative, she said, " I heard beautiful music." I inquired if she could describe what she saw, and she replied, " Oh ! no. I cannot describe the appearance of the angels, but they were very numerous, and I saw my Saviour with them ; there was quite a group of them, all looking down upon me." While at prayer, subsequently, we had a re- markable sense of the Divine presence — the room seemed filled with it — it was almost overpowering. GRACE IN DEATH. 145 if She appeared to be in an ecstasy; her hands were lifted up on high, and in constant motion ; she waved thetii round and round, and frequently clasping them together, seemed like a spirit just about to wing its flight from earth, to enter the paradise of God. After singing a hymn, I left, and she told me that on the following morning she wished to speak to me on a particular subject. February *21.— Being in attendance this morning as usual, after receiving an account of the Lord's dealing with her through the night— which was one of peace, and ease from pain — she entered upon the subject upon which she had wished to speak to me, which was respecting a sermon being preached on occasion of her death. She referred to the restriction which has been already alluded to, and on intimating that she now wished to remove it, she added cheer- fully, " You know I have never been a public character; I have always preferred to be * Little and unknown, Loved and prized by God alone.* But I have feared, lest, by consulting my own feelings only, I might be the means of hindering good being done to others, and therefore, although I much prefer nothing being said of me when I am gone, I will leave it entirely with you. I am a sinner saved by grace, and my only desire is, the glory of God, and the salvation of others." ," II 'if A i bV V • 146 CHAPTER V. She then reviewed her whole illness, and expressed her gratitude that, notwithstanding it was felt to he a cross at the time, she had, at the first interview, fully opened the state of her mind. She said, that had she not hrokeu through at first, she never should have had resolution afterwards, and would have heen a poor stupid patient, without receiving many blessings since experienced. She alluded to many little particulars connected with her affliction, and said — " Every thing has been accomplished to my wish, and every desire has been fulfilled ; not one good thing has failed of all that the Lord has promised — all has come to pass." She experienced a deep sense of the remark- able manifestation of God's presence, that we had experienced the preceding evening, and said, although she had a spasm at the time, her faculties remained unimpaired. She also referred to another memorable period, the time when she had received the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, the whole day having been passed by her in extreme pain, with the excep- tion of a small portion devoted to the administration of the ordinance, the pain returning with undiminished force only a very few minutes afterwards. February 24. — The two last days have been \aried with alternate ease and pain. On Friday evening, I was seut for in haste, and found that she had been in convulsions two hours. When their violence had somewhat abated, and ^he recognised me, she said, as \ m GRACE IN DEATH. 147 \ one of the spasms ceased, " One less now." I re- marked that they would soon be over ; she appeared to catch eagerly at this, and inquired if I thought she would obtain her long-looked-for release that night. I told her that it was impossible to say, and asked what her own opinion was. Her reply was, " I do not know, but I hope so." She had again one of those remarkable visitations already spoken of, and passed a somewhat comfortable night. The following day she was cheerful and lively, com- paratively free from pain ; and, seeing a friend writing in the room, she asked for pencil and paper, and wrote as follows, to friends that were very dear to her : " My dear Uncle and Aunt — " With my dying hand I wish to write a few lines to you, to inform you, not of my sufferings, . oh ! no, but of my happiness in believing. Oh ! what would I have done without religion now ! Blessed be the Lord, it has supported me through this long afflic- tion ; my trust has been in the Saviour ; and I have found his grace sufficient for me in every trying hour. Now, most likely, ere you read this, I shall be num- bered among the dead. Yes ! the name of your Eliza will no more be sounded in this world. A short time since I felt the application of his all-cleansing blood ; and now ' my hope is full (oh ! glorious hope) of immortality.' Kiss the dear children for me ; dear uncle and aunt, we shall meet in heaven." -"^^vi3 . TLough nature's strength decay, And earth and hell wiUistand, To Canaan's bounds I urge niy way, At his command. The wateiy deep I pass, With Jesus in my view ; And through the howling wilderness. My way pursue. Wesley's Hymns. There is nothing which so peculiarly forces upon the mind of an individual that he is in a foreign land, as the differences which he remarks in the manners and customs of ordinary life in those around him. An individual may be an exile from home by choice or necessity, this will make but little difference ; the situation in which he finds himself may have charms, or it may have none, this does not make all the dis- tinction; there are peculiarities which meet him at every turn, and these speak of his absence from his 152 CHAPTER VI. fatherland ; they tell him, in a voice which will be heard, that he is not at home. It cannot he expected, that, in the British Colonies of North America, there will be all that difference in manners and customs which might be found much nearer home, for in- stance, on the Continent of Europe : nor does the writer remember to have ever felt on this side the Atlantic, as he once did, when in difficulty late one evening (and that a very rainy one) in Scotland, many years ago; unable to secure a bed for the night at the only inn in the place, and a perfect stranger there, he was contemplating the only chance remain- ing of passing the night by sitting up before the fire, when a good honest Scotchman turned to a neighbour, after hearing the unsuccessful application to the waiter, and said, " He is an Englishman, and we must pro- cure him accommodation some where in the town :" then, the sound of my own country's name— myself absent from it for the first time in my life— had a very peculiar effect on my mind. No feeling like this has ever recurred since— for in this colony, whether you come from England, Ireland, or Scot- land, it matters not, the Nova Scotian looks upon you as a countryman ; he claims to be a Briton with your- self; and though he may have never set his foot on any other shore, he still calls " the old country" home: a sound peculiarly endeared to the expatriated Eng- lishman. . MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 153 r At the same time there are many customs prevalent in ordinary life which we do not witness in England, and it is my design not merely to attempt a descrip- tion of these, but to direct attention to those things which in the published accounts which have been offered to the public, have either escaped observation, or have been omitted in description. In the way in which funerals are conducted in the province, there is considerable difference exhibited, and this was one of the first peculiarities which offered itself to my notice. In the arrangements of the house after death has occurred, it is customary to cover the walls of the apartment in which the corpse is laid, with white hangings throughout— generally common cotton sheets are hung around the room. Every picture is scrupulously covered, the clock- face is always hidden, and the table upon which the coffin rests is covered to the ground. No white wood coffins are seen, like the plain oak ones used in Eng- land, all are blacked with a mixture of lamp black or black paint— -very few are covered with cloth. At home the coffin is generally closed before the day of interment, but in this province, this never is done except under peculiar circumstances ; it appears to be expected particularly that every or who attends the funeral shall look upon the corpse. Sometimes I have seen the lid divided hdf-way down, and hinged, 80 that while the lowar part in screwed down, the iH m 154 CHAPTER VI. I upper part remained open, and was turned back ; at other times the whole lid has been screwed down, and a pane of glass inserted just over the face of the corpse, protected by a sliding cover, so that before the latter was drawn over, all could obtain the usual glance. This last look of the relatives and friends is sometimes, in the country parts of the province, carried to a painful and unnecessary extreme : the coffin will be carried out into the^^road or public street, prior to proceeding to the place of interment ; then perhaps, after wailing grief and weeping adieus, partially screwed down, and carried to the burying gi'ound, where it is again opened, and the harrowing scenes of a final parting are renewed, sometimes with loud outcries and vehement grief. It is but just to say that these scenes are becoming more rare, and it is to be hoped that in a short time, will become obsolete, as better information on the subject prevails. But another marked peculiarity is seen throughout the whole province, namely, a large attendance of indi- viduals to walk in procession at the funeral. It is held as a mark of respect to the family, that all per- sons acquainted with the deceased, should, without special invitation, except as it is sometimes publicly announced in the newspapers, present themselves at the funeral ; so that, on some occasions, I have wit- nessed from two to three hundred individuals following, two and two, and extending the procession to a great , t MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 155 ■ length indeed; in fact, in the country, it amounts to a turn-out of the whole community or neighbourhood, and the question, as to whether it was a large funeral or no, is not unfrequently heard as a test of the respect in which the deceased was held. It is also expected that some service, by the officiating minister, should take place at the house from which the funeral proceeds. In settlements, where individuals have come from remote distances to attend, and when perhaps the place of interment is like the patriarchal one of Abraham, " a family burying place in a field," a funeral sermon is often preached at the house before proceeding to the grave ; but, in all cases, or nearly so, where no other service takes place, except at the grave, the departure from the house is preceded by singing and prayer. There is also as marked a contrast in the celebra- tion of marriages, between this and the old country, as in the preceding account respecting funeral rites. In England, marriages are geneially solemnized in the early part of the day, they also generally take place in the parish church or Registrar's office, in the pre- sence of a few friends, but never at a private house, except by special license ; but here it almost without exception takes place at the residence of the parents of the bride, and in the evening. Eight o'clock at night is a customary hour; the entertainments are frequently on au extensive scale, and the number pre- i T 1^ *\ 156 CHAPTER VI. sent often manifestly disproportioned to the size of the house. In this matter, however, fashion is intro- ducing somewhat of a change ; the idea of heing man'ied '* in church" has heen imported from home, and some in the higher circles have commenced the practice, not, ho\vever, with that studied retirement which is observed in England ; the event is generally a matter of notoriety, and the clergyman, at such times, may ensure to himself, then at least, a large congregation. Some years ago there were disabilities attaching themselves to ministers who were not in connection with the Church of England, the latter alone being allowed to marry by license ; but an extending spirit of liberality has equalised these distinctions, and all ministers who have received ordination, are permitted to marry without any such restriction. The introduction of many English customs during the last few years, may, in some measure, be ascribed to the increasing communication obtained with Eng- land during that time by the establishment of the mail steamers. The extended intercourse by this means has already been alluded to, but it yet remains to shew other advantages which have accrued from this important change, and the first to which I shall refer, is a matter which is of deep interest to every colonist and every resident. 1 allude to the improve- ments olVectod in the transmission of correspondence MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 157 1' by mail, not only as it regards speed and safety, but as it will easily be discovered, in a financial point of view. In 1837 the postage of a single sheet to Halifax was two shillings and threepence sterling: this was the price of a single letter, subject as usual, under the old economy, to double postage in case of an enclosure, however light, but at the present time the postage is regulated as at home, by weight ; the single rate being charged to Halifax one shilling sterling. But again, a more important amelioration for those who reside at a great distance from Halifax, still in the British Colonies, is connected with this change. Take the following as an illustration, — The inter-colonial post- age between Halifax and Montreal in Eastern Canada is two shillings and twopence currency, this was in former times added to the regular packet post- age, in proportion to the distance from Halifax ; this caused some letters to be taxed to an extent which instead of facilitating correspondence, operated as a prohibition ; but now one general rale of one shilling and twopence sterling is charged upon every letter beyond Halifax, whether the distance be five or five hundred miles, no intenial postage being demanded in addition. The prudence and profit of this measure, both to the public and to the post-ofifice, is unquestionable ; the higher rates prevented an increasing revenue, and other means of conveyance, although less regular. m i i ! I t , 158 CHAPTER VI. were sought after, to the impeding and restricting of commercial intercourse ; and when it is remembered, in addition to this, that the old line of sailing packets from Falmouth, in boisterous weather were sometimes forty, fifty, and on a few occasions even ninety days on the passage, while scarcely a year elapsed but one was lost ; it will be easily seen that there was not only delay, but no dependence or certainty could be placed on the anxiously looked for arrival. But how different are the circumstances under the present arrangement, calculation and expectation have never in a single in- tance been disappointed more than a day or two, and letters are frequently del'rered in Montreal and Quebec, on the fifteenth day after they have left the post-office in Liverpool. The same liberal spirit of management has lately also extended itself to the colonial rates of postage : the rates themselves have not been lowered except in a few cases, but the adoption of weight as the standard for rating the postage, gives the usual half-ounce for a single rate in lieu of the former less liberal arrange- ment. Equally susceptible of the genius of improvement has been the management of all other matters con- nected with the locomotive accommodation of the public during the last few years, and as these are matters which do not find their way easily into any history of the province, it may be allowed that we MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 159 should occupy a few pages of this narrative with some remarks illustrating these improvements. The lapse of the last seven years has made a won- derful difference, both in the public roads of the pro- vince, and in the vehicles employed for the accom- modation of the public. It is not indeed, now, that Nova Scotia can speak of her stage coaches, in any favourable comparison with those light and well- appointed equipages, which were found on the English roads, in the climax of their history, before they were run down by railway competition. In fact, the build of such vehicles would not answer in this climate ; steel springs could not be depended upon, under all the circumstances they have to encounter ; for either the action of the severe frost in winter would endanger them, or, still more, the sudden crossing of a project- ing log in the road, would cause too frequent ruptures to be either pleasant or allowable. The coaches in use have a much more clumsy appearance externally, and are suspended upon leather straps, many in number, to the thickness of about two inches when laid upon each other ; these are secured together by a clip and screw, and fastened at either end of the body of the coach, on each side, by being passed round an iron bar raised from the bed of the carriage, and higher than the resting place of the body itself. The motion, to a stranger, is unpleasant, being what sailors call a fore and aft motion ; but these sus- <.»ai.>.iu niHJjmi.i .1"*' I " »"!" 160 CHAPTEU VI. penders serve to break the abruptness of those inter- ruptions made by rocks and logs in the road. In these matters, as already intimated, great improve- ments have taken place in the last few years. In the year 1838, in my journey to Picton, alluded to m a former page, I found a vehicle running as a stage, and carrying " Her Majesty's mails" also, which, if pro- perly described, might provoke a smile. It had had steel springs, disposed in the quadrangular form in which they are sometimes used in England ; but one of these had been broken and removed, and the sub- stitute was a stick of wood, rough hewn out of the forest, which was placed where the broken sprmg had been, resting on the fore-carriage when it was lashed, and on which the body itself, in its turn, rested : of course there was no " spring" in the matter at all. At first I supposed this was a substitute for a short time, till it could be repaired ; but I was soon unde- ceived ; it served our purpose for the journey of one hundred miles. After a fortnight had elapsed, and I wanted to return home, I found the obnoxious log still in its place ; and, if it had not been for an entire change in the dispensation of stage coaches, for ought I know to the contrary, it might have been there to this day. The changes which have taken place are creditable to all parties concerned. There are only two main lines of road from Halifax-the eastern route to MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 161 Picton, and the western to Windsor; the former one hundred, and the latter forty-five miles from the me- tropolis; this was opened for a stage in 1816, and was extended to Annapolis, in 1828, the House of Assembly granting three hundred pounds per annum for five yeai-s, to assist the undertaking. From Windsor the post road takes two routes, embracing the western portion of the province, the road following the northern shore by Annapolis and Digby to Yar- mouth ; thence, on the southern shore, by Barrington, Sherburne, Liverpool, and Lunenburgh, back to Windsor again. Large sums of money have, of late years, been ex- pended on the public roads, which are now, in the travelling season, in a very creditable condition ; new stage coach companies have superseded the old ones. On the eastern road light, and indeed elegant, stages may be seen driving into the city, with six greys " in hand ;" while, on the other route, there is an opposi- tion competing with the old established company, which has already had the efiect of reducing the fares and increasing the accommodation. One general pecu- liarity remains to be noticed ; there is not the dififer- ence between outside and inside fare so usual at home. These vehicles have but little accommodation for outside passengers, excepting the "box seat;" and inside and outside fares are charged alike, with the addition of a gratuity for a seat beside the M iml -V jt .iiiiiivjiUbiiaBiiViii' 162 CHAPTER VI. driver, by way of preventing altercation for that dis- tinction. Another main feature in tV.p lustory of the increased facilities of communicatioo, h found in the introduc- tion and increase of steam-boat accommodation. In the year 1828 the House of Assembly voted one hun- dred and fifty pounds per annum, to encourage the establishment of a steam communication between Annapolis and St. John, N.B. Subsequently, similar communication was opened between Windsor and St. John ; afterwards between Picton, Charlotte Town, and Meramichi. In 1841 a steam -boat commenced running weekly between Halifax and St. John, calling at the then principal western ports, viz., Lunenburg, Liverpool, and Yarmouth. The branch mail steamer in connection with the Cunard line, connects Picton and Quebec ; and an engagement has just been completed for carrying the mails, per steamer, from Halifax to Newfoundland. In all these arrangements, as must necessarily be the case in a young country, assistance has been liberally afforded by the provincial legisla- ture ; yet, there can be no doubt but that the enter- prise' will be attended with success, and, in a short time, be independent of any other than the public *' Perhaps a better plan could not be adopted to show the facilities afforded at the present time for speedy travelling in the provinces than to sketch the outlines MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 163 of a journey undertaken by the writer, in the summer of 1843, to be present at the commencement of the first term of the new Wesleyan Academy, at Sack- ville, N. B., a building which has been lately com- pleted at an expense of upwards of five thousand pounds, and presented by the munificence of one in- dividual, (C. F. Allison, Esq.) as a Centenary gift to the British Conference for the general purposes of education and Wesleyan training. It is conveniently situated near the junction of the two provinces, at Sackville, in Westmoreland, about nine miles from the circuit town of Amherst, referred to in our second chapter. It may be premised that the greatest ob- stacle to the regular transit of steamers in the western coast of Nova Scotia, and in the Bay of Fundy in particular, arises from the dense fogs which prevail during the summer season ; at the same time it is astonishing how much ingenuity and experience can eflfect in overcoming this great obstacle, which is still often the cause of danger, inconvenience, and delay. The route intended, on this occasion, was by water from Yarmouth to St. John ; thence, as arrange- ments might have been made there for journeying onwards in company with other preachers in that dis- trict. I went on board the steamer " Saxe Gotha," on a Saturday afternoon in July, expecting, according to promise, to take the pulpit in St. John, the fol- lowing day. A lovlier afternoon need not be desired ; 164 CHAPTER VT. Still the wind was south west, ominous of fog. V/e were preparing to leave the wharf, when the hght- house at the entrance of the harhour, suddenly dis- ^ appeared ; a dense bank of fog was seen creeping through the narrows at the harbour's mouth, and, in a few minutes, came rolling on until every thing was Bhut out from view, except a small circumference around the vessel ; and to leave was impossible : how- ever, before night, the fog lifted sufficiently for us to drop down the harbour ; but in the narrows it agam Bhut in upon us, and we were prevented from puttmg to sea. We lay at anchor till daylight, when, about four o'clock, A.M., we were just able to clear the harbour, and shape our course for Briar Island, which divides the voyage about mid-distance to St. John. The fog continued as thick as ever, and no object met our view. By the time we had run our distance, and expected to be near the Island, it was past ten o'clock, A M. The sun now drove the fog down upon us most oppressively; it was also evidently dispersing, as ^ bright blue sky was directly above us, and the fog appeared to be no higher than the top of the fore- mast. Still it hung around us like a veil, and we lay to and stood off and on alternately with slackened speed, a look-out being stationed aloft, and some keen eyes about the bows of the vessel. On listening attentively, when we lay still on the smooth water, we heard a heavy roaring sound, above ,■^(^(t^wwl,-i^ m MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 165 the noise occasioned by the escaping steam ; and one, almost at the same time, discerned a liae of some thing whiter than the fog, above the range of the water level; this was conjectured to be surf breaking on the island ; but it must have been, at least, thirty feet high. We advanced a little, very cautiously, and now saw a distinct line of heavy surf, with a break in the centre of the line, which we concluded to be the passage we had to enter, between the island and the main. We accordingly ventured to proceed very slowly; the surf was now terrifically distinct, both to the eye and ear ; and the very thought, that if this were not the passage, we were rushing upon certain destruction, was somewhat appalling. We had not proceeded far when a look-out shouted " Breakers ahead !" " Stop her ! " was the ready reply. Another now called out that there were breakers on the star- board bow ; and, at the same time, another shouted that there were breakers on the larboard beam. It was an exciting moment; not another word was spoken ; but the experienced pilot looked over the bows, pierced through the fog as far as vision could reach ; his countenance brightened—" It is the pas- sage tide rip," was the glad announcement, and on we went; but such a tide as this ! the force of the cur- rent of the whole bay, in its ebb, is propelled through a passage less than half a mile wide, and it came on rolling and tumbling like a heavy cross sea, until. ^ t I 'i 166 CHAPTER VI. in a few moments, we were plunging our bows into it, as though we had encountered the effects of a sudden storm. We now saw the land dimly ; the fog was breaking; a point of land ahead remained to be passed ; we shoot past it swiftly, and in a moment more, like enchantment, the rolling tide is far astern ; we are in water smooth as a lake, and beautifully blue : the fog is gone— we have left it behind, like a drop curtain, in our wake ; and the cloudless sky— the summer's sun-the beautiful harbour— the pretty village— present, at one glance, a most interesting picture, heightened, perhaps, by contrast with the suspense we had endured. It was the Christian Sabbath ; I was shut out from the expected oppor- tunity of divine worship ; I was nearly fifty miles from the end of the journey, but I yet anticipated reaching St. John, in time for evening service. It continued a most lovely day-no fog nor cloud was seen— and we sped on our way with rapidity ; yet, owing to the ebb tide, at the time appointed for service we were twelve miles from the city, then dis- tinctly in view, and we eventually arrived just as the several places of worship were dismissing their con- gregations. I have digressed considerably from my intention, by enlarging on the outline proposed ; and have com- mitted an anomaly in writing of the hindrances, >Nhen pvcposing to ^^ritc of the facilities of travelling ; MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 167 but I have wished to show any peculiar feature of this country distinctly, and this must be my apology for these details. As Sackville is distant one hundred and forty miles by land from St. John ; and we were to meet at that place on the following Wednesday, I very naturally judged that Monday and Tuesday would be occupied by the journey ; but I soon found that a more convenient arrangement had been made. A considerable party had been formed, so as to warrant the engagement of a steamer to convey us up the bay direct to Sackville, about one hundred miles. This was to leave on Tuesday evening, so that I had two days of leisure in the city — was able to preach on Tuesday evening ; after which the whole party went on board ; all was prepared ; we put to sea imme- diately, and at eleven o'clock the next morning we were at Sackville. It is not my intention to describe this beautiful building, or the circumstances connected with this opening of the institution, except to say, that this was the re-opening or commencement after the first recess ; and it was deemed desirable that the services should be made as interesting and impres- sive as possible. This took place on Thursday ; several of the i)reachcrs from both districts were pre- sent, by appointment, from the annual district meet- ings ; and the afternoon of the day was devoted to business. At seven o'clock in the evening, I left the academy in a light waggon, having engaged a friend t ;:igr;?.t!8!iir'>:*.''M ag ijli'»"m 'w 168 CHAPTER VI. to drive me thirty-five miles, to the Bend of Pettico- diac, intending to take the stage from thence to St. John, early the following morning. We drove all night, of course ; and just before day- break, about three o'clock a.m. we had a very narrow escape, which I may here mention, because it serves to shew the peculiarities of such a journey. On com- mencing the descent of a steep hill, I remarked that there was a singular appearance at the bottom of the hill ; in the gloom it appeared to be entirely cut off, but I could not tell how it was, so I jumped out and ran down before the waggon, when I found that there had been a bridge at this place, but it had been carried away by a freshet, and there was a stream, with steep precipitous banks, entirely unprotected ; so that had we come with accelerated speed down the hill, we eould not have escaped a serious accident— perhaps a frightful death. On stooping down and tracing the marks of former wheels, T found an angular turn to the left for twenty or thirty yards, and then a tem- porary bridge of planks thrown across the ravine. A more dangerous place for persons travelling in the dark I have seldom seen. I found, on arriving at the Bend, that the stage would leave almost immediately ; we left, on our way to St. John, at half-past four a.m. ; and in fifteen hours I was, on Friday evening, again in the city, which I had only left the previous Tuesday night. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 161^ 1. As there was no steam-boat leaving for Yarmouth until Monday, I took the opportunity, on Saturday at noon, of stepping on board the steamer " New Bruns- wick," for Fredericton, and by nine o'clock in the evening had travelled nmety miles up the beautiful river St. John. It was a lovely day — the scenery on the banks of the river very fine — and, excepting an outbreak or two in the forward part of the boat among some lumberers from the Aroostook, returning thither after conveying their timber rafts down to the city, who were certainly the most profane in their language of any I had ever met with, we had a most interesting voyage. I had the privilege of preaching twice on the succeeding day, and noticed, among the congrega- tion in the evening, the lady of his Excellency Sir Wm. Colbrook, the Governor, and part of the suite ; both the Governor and his lady appear to have won the esteem of all parties here, by their liberality and Christian spirit. On Monday morning, my kind host, the Hon. L. A. Wilmot, drove me down to the landing place; I again embarked for St. John, and at six o'clock in the evening landed in the city. This was the hour of sailing for the steamer by which I expected to be con- veyed home, so that I had but to step fi oni one vessel to another, and on the following moniing I landed in Yarmouth. My object in this digression is to shew the facilities of travelling in the provinces, and it will 170 CHAPTER VI. % be fairly before the reader in a short summary ; I had been absent nine entire days, of which I had spent Monday and Tuesday in St. John, Wednesday and Thursday in Sackville, and the Sabbath in Frederic- ton ; while in the interim I had travelled at least six hundred and thirty miles. Perhaps this chapter of miscellaneous matters may be concluded with a few remarks on the climate of Nova Scotia. I am persuaded that it is only imperfectly understood by those who have never experienced it. Having kept a meteorological journal c xly for nearly seven years, I am well supplied with data to assist memory in this matter. In whiter the cold is severe, much more so than at any time in England ; and in summer the heat is greater also. The spring seasons are rainy and backward, the forests being seldom in full leaf before June 1st. But the fall, as the autumn is universally called, is generally very pleasant ; the most delightful season of the whole. The cold and storms of winter generally commence about the second week in November — sometimes indeed a little later, but generally about this time. January and February are the coldest months. It must be observed that there is often very con- siderable difference between the same seasons in different years. The winters of 1838—9 and 1843—4 were remarkably severe. The thermometer presented its maximum of cold, for the last seven years, in the i{' I k MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 171 day time, on the 6th and 7th of Fehruary 1839, when it stood in Halifax twelve degrees below Zero, or forty- four degrees below the freezing point, and at night it descended eight degrees lower still. But it must not be understood that these days of severe cold are the most unpleasant, such is not by any means the case ; on such days the skies are generally cloud- less, and there is no wind at all ; it is true that there is a peculiar sensation about the face when exposed to the air, and at such times the touch of metal, even the fire irons in the sitting room, communicates an un- pleasant feeling to the fingers ; but there is little or no inconvenience to the pedestrian, if properly pro- tected with sufficient clothing. There are other times when no protection will avail, and when no one can be exposed long with impunity. Such a time, almost unparalleled for severity, occurred on tie 29th of January in the present year 1844. It was a fearful storm. The morning ol the day was cold> blowing heavv from W.N.W. (the thermometer down to Zero), accompanied with driving snow; during the day the gale increased considerably, and in the after- noon towards sun down it attained a most furious height. It is utterly impossible to present a picture of such a storm — indeed it is impracticable even to look at it — from the house itself there is no view, the nearest objects are hidilen as in a dense fog, and out of doors the air is iilied with snow, not falling in if 172 CHAPTER VI. flakes, but divided into the most minute particles, with which the air is so impregnated, that every in- spiration to windward is accompanied with a stifling sensation which cannot be described, and these par- ticles will penetrate through the thickest clothing, except such as is mechanically rendered impervious to air. The wind also is so much colder than the atmosphere, that, added to the difficulty, almost im- possibility of weathering the force of the wind, no person can expose any portion of the surface of the body without its being frost bitten. Hundreds of cases occurred on this memorable day, and, besides several narrow escapes which came under my own observation, the newspapers recorded two cases of death from suffo- cation in the province in the open day ; one that of a young lady eighteen years of age returning on foot from school only a short distance, she was stifled with the drift- ing snow, and, being unable to advance from the force of the wind, in a very few minutes died from the cold. In the course of the same evening I was obliged to leave the house to fasten the cellar door, which had broken loose, and threatened the destruction by frost of all our vogetables ; being a slanting trap door in the yard, opening outwards, it was thrashing so violently as to be likely to break up altogether : well armed with fur mittens and cap, waterproof coat, &c., I went into the yard with a board under my arm, which I intended to nail across the door so as to batten MANNKRS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. 173 it down. At first I was carried away entirely, and unable even to regain the house, through the violence of the wind ; but, taking advantage of a momentary lull, I made a rush at my object, and lay a moment or two upon it to recover from the stifling sensation ; I then took off a glove to enable me to use a hammer, but, in this time, not exceeding three minutes, my whole hand became so frozen and stiff, that I could not have opened my fingers had my life depended on it, I regained the house as quickly as I could, having accomplished my intention, and recovered the use of my hand immediately by proper application, but the suffering for a short time was extreme. It is evident that the wind is colder than the atmosphere, for, with the thermometer as low as on this day, I have rode, on a calm day, twenty miles on horseback against the wind, with my face exposed, without feeling any very unpleasant sensations. Such stormy days, as the one above described, are very rare ; and it has been introduced, to the exclusion of any other minute details on the general course of the seasons, because such descriptions are to be found in other works, and my wish has been rather to give such as have not before been presented to the reader, in any former account of the province of Nova Scotia. CHAPTER SEVENTH. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, SCENERY, NATIVE INDIANS, &c. Lo ! here thy wond'rous skill arrays The earth in cheerful green ; A thousand herbs thy art displays, A thousand flowers between. Wesley's Hymns. In speaking of the natural productions of the pro- vince, the same line will be pursued, as has been in- timated in the preceding pages, the design will be to take up those peculiar views, which have not generally been exhibited. To an English resident in the pro- vince, the wild fruits of the summer season are always an object of surprise and pleasure; berries of every kind grow indigenously in every part of the province, and become a source of revenue to hundreds of in- dividuals of the lower class, who gather them for the purpose of selling them. The strawberry and rasp- NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. 175 berry are not only ab.indant, but their flavour is very fine; they are generally prominent in the estimation of English visitors, perhaps because they can only be procured at the expense of cultivation an(^ trouble at home ; but among the settlers and natives of the province, cranberries, blackberries, whortleberries, blueberries, are alike with them ranked in importance, as they appear in continuous succession, but amongst these the cranberry and blueberry are found in greatest abundance, and are most used. It is almost impossible to fonn an estimate of the immense quantity of the common blueberry found in a favourable season; I have passed over barrens of vast extent, where thousands of acres would never be touched by the hand of the gatherer; in some parts of the province a day is set apart, and a large party collected to go in company to gather the fruit, which, when gathered, is dried in the sun, and used through the winter as a substitute for the Zante currant, but without the pleasant flavour of that fruit; it has, however, a flavour peculiarly its own. In the town- ship of Aylesford, there is a place called Carriboo Bog, apparently the residuum of a former lake, it is surrounded by the wild forest, and is computed to be a thousand acres in extent, this is a perfect level, and is entirely covered with the bushes which bear the blueberry. I have seen in this place, through which the post road directly runs, above one m 176 CHAPTER VII. hundred vehicles of all descriptions in the road, and, I suppose, from three to four hundred persons dis- persed through the bushes, gathering the fruit. They generally take with them materials for their dinner and tea, and spend the day upon the ground, return- ing to their homes in the evening loaded with the fruit Similar excursions, though generally on a much smaller scale, are planned throughout the whole country, and it is to the lover of nature, and especially to those who " look from nature, up to nature's God," an innocent and pleasant recreation. The gathering of May flowers is an earlier task, which demands a moment's notice ; it is one which supplies as rich a treat to the smell, as the other to the taste. The May flower (epigoea repens) is to Nova Scotia what the rose is to England, and the shamrock to Ireland ; it is its national, or rather its provincial emblem, and is, I believe, confined chiefly to this pro- vince, not being found either in Canada or the United States. Like the snowdrop in England, its modest and lovely flower is the first herald of winter's depar- ture, and the approach of spring. In the last week or two of April, visitors to sylvan scenes may be seen bringing home a few solitary specimens of the pro- mised bouquet, but immediately after this, especially after the first warm rains of spring, they may be found in all wild lands, and being eagerly looked for by all. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. 177 are seen as the general decoration of almost every par- lour table in the province. It is a beautiful small flower, most frequently white, but sometimes blushing through every intermediate shade, till it reaches the hue of the rose : it grows close to the ground ; like the violet, it is covered almost with its own leaves, but may be detected almost by its rich perfume. It is not the only specimen of wild flower which surprised us with its odour, after all that has been written to prove that the feathered tribes of America are song- less, and its flowers destitute of fragrance. The white water lily (nymphasa alba odorata) is found oii the fresh water lakes, in the month of September : these are about the size of the dahlia, equally full of petals, sitting on the surface of the water, surrounded by a corollary of green ; and a very few of them suffice to fill a drawing room with an odoriferous per- fume. If the design of these pages were to furnish a list of the wild floral beauties of this land, the list would be extensive, and the description lengthy ; but such is not intended. Indeed, such a list has already been furnished by an historian, of whom the province that gave him birth may be proud.* There is, however, one other flower, which may be enumerated as worthy of peculiar notice. In passing over swampy ground, the attention of the traveller is * See Judge Haliburton's History of Nova Scotia. N ^'b^ .-v^ .0^,. \^ ^^K% IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / ^/ o fc 4ip V C?. i^. 178 CHAPTER VII. sometimes arrested by a dark crimson flower, rising on a tulip-like stalk, but with smaller petals than the tulip. The flower itself may be a momentary object of attraction ; but, on examination, the attention will . soon be directed to the plant itself, of which the flower forms a very secondary object of importance. The leaves of the plant are found drawn over from side to side, and sealed together naturally, so as to form a vegetable phial, nanow at its lowest end, but swellmg upwards with a pear-like form, the top or mouth being most ingeniously contrived by its mighty Architect. It is called the Indian Cup, (Saracenia purpurea) ; its mouth expands with the moisture of the atmos- phere, when it receives, down this funnel-shaped aper- ture, both rain and dew, which fill the receptacle be- neath ; it then closes, in dry and sultry weather, to prevent the liquid supply from being lost. A more admirable natural reservoir it is impossible to conceive; in the very wilderness, when the cooling streams are dried up, in the heat of summer, it supplies its tem- porary relief to the denizens of the forest. Often have 1 gathered them to admire them ; but I have never found an empty one in a healthy plant, in the driest season. The forest scenery of the province, generally speak- ing, does not rank high, as it regards the loftiness of its trees, or the stateliness of their trunks ; though there are exceptions to this remark. Yet there is NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. 179 igon I the (bject 1 will « lower The ide to brm a celling being hitect. irea) ; Bittnos- i aper- cle be- her, to \ more Qceive; ins are ts tem- Often I have in the |r speak- tiness of ihongh there is something indescribably attractive in those wild scenes so frequently witnessed. The romantic idea of forest glades^ or distant vistas through the trees, is not realized in Nova Scotia. I have not seen a forest in this country, except where a thick and tangled under- wood presented a barrier, impenetrable, except to the agile moose, or its indomitable foe, the Indian hunter ; yet I have found points of sight, presenting features of attraction, never to be forgotten. One of these views is from the summit of Mount Thom, between Truro and Picton : in travelling thither by stagOj we stayed to dine at a solitary house, in the very heart of a forest. There was, in fact, no clearing, except where the house stood, and a strip in the rear of it, running to the top of a hill : to this spot I went to obtain a view, and I was well repaid : it was literally a wide expanse of broad-spread forest and sky ; nothing else, save the cottage below and the public road, winding like a rivulet in a distant meadow. It was early spring, too ; and the different shades of foliage were clearly marked ; it was one of nature's own landscapes, in broad masses of light and shade. The dark spruce, pine, and hemlock, which had main- tained their verdure, deep, but unimpaired, through the snows of winter ; the lighter buds of the hack- metack or larch, the apple green of the birch, the crimson tint of the young leaves of the maple, with many other intermediate shades of green from the elm( 180 CHAPTER VII. and beech, presented a most beautiful picture — the blue sky, without a cloud, canopying the whole. Another interesting view is from the summit of the Falmouth Mountain, in driving along the old line of road from Windsor to Horton. On attaining this eminence, there is an interval between this ridge, «iid the opposite rise of Horton Mountain. In the hollow is a pretty stream, and half>way house, witli meadows, and other signs of agricultural industry. But I am referring to a view obtained antecedently to this, from the summit I have spoken of, where a twm in the road hides the valley from our sight ; there is nothing seen, then, but a wide and apparently interminable forest, from this to the opfosite range ; and, on the highest part of that, there is a break in the woodp against the sky, where the road passes over the hill, which shows, by its minitude, the extent of the view. What a gorgeous sight have I witnessed here, after the first frosts of Autumn : the scene has been painted in a single verse, which I transcribe — " Bummer now yields to autumn's russet dress, And doflFs her emerald robe of shining green : A magic hand, with passing loveliness, Has clothed the fading woods with brilliant sheen ; Had Fancy struck her wand, this had not been— Had artist sketched them, 'twere a fiction deemed j But, as though clouds were prisms, held up between The forests and the sunlight, so it seemed, With every rainbow hue to have decked the transient seine." These lines are, at least, true to nature. The leaf of NATURAl PBODDOTIONS, ETC. ISl the maple ia, at this time, white on its underside ; on its upper side, a deep crimson ; the hireh varies ivom the palest yellow to a deep suuhumt hue. Many of the other trees change in a similar manner, and the effects are beyond description. It is a scene for a poet, and a time for sentiment. The afternoon and OTOuing are creeping along ; the shrill sound of the locust has been heard all day, but it is now hushed ; the heat of the sun mitigates, as it reaches the western horizon ; it has already been lost to the landscape, and the shades of evening are gathering around ; the summit of the last hill has been left behind ; and, as night is falling, we descend into the lovely vale of Gaspereaux. T^ut another scene opens upon the stranger, which he views with astonishment : the fire- flies, in thousands, are around us on every side, and a miniature illumination is spread in living scintilla- tions around ; they shoot across the sky, like falling stars» or rest a moment on the harness of the horse as he plods his weary way ; and every bank, and every fence, and every bush, has its own peculiar constella^ lion. I have described tlie circumstances as they first met my observation on this very spot ; and the recol- lection of that day's journey is pleasing stiSI. Many other points of scenery might thus be sketched, but I will only trespass further on the reader's patience, while I lead him to an object widi which the Nova Scotian is but too familiar, but which 182 CHAPTBR Vir. is not often made a subject of sentimental description ; namely, the common swamp. While the forests, the lakes, the meadows, the wide-spread savannahs, and the geological productions of Nova Scotia, have been made the theme of numerous writings, but few have ventured upon this ground. Like the place we de- scribe, it appears to have been deemed impassable ground ; impassable to the footsteps of science, and equally unfit for the use of the agriculturist or histo- rian. Yet we stand here, in the very midst of its attractions ; for who can pause a moment here, and be insensible to the objects which surround him on every side. ' It is the season of autumn — lovely autumn : the prospect around is abstract and limited. The road on which we stand has not even Hogarth's line of beauty to recommend it. It is a straight pathway, redeemed from the swamp by a hasty line of unsightly logs, whose ends protrude on either side from the scanty soil intended to cover them : this is art — and nature claims our notice here. The ox-teem is just emerging from the furthest extremity of the road, and the very oxen and teamster seem glad to have passed the swamp. Yet will we linger a little longer, to trace some of the features of the place ; when we were here, in the merry month of May, the frogs were carolling in concert ; but, now, their music is not heard, and the only sound is the twit of the blue jay, as she flies NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. 183 into the solitary spruce tree ; or the crackling of the dry brushes, as the steer rushes into the thicket, where it has been sent by its owner to seek its summer food. Yet, though little meets the ear, there is not wanting that which may attract the eye. The brakes^ or feins, have changed from their lively green, arid assumed a deep sienna hue ; the common rush has put forth, near its extremity, a cottony tuft, so that it looks like a tasseled spear for the frog's tournament ; the spruce trees are as green as ever, where life remains : but the juniper is again fading into " the sere and vellow leaf," ere it dofis its russet hue to meet the wintry storms. Amidst the varied shades above the ground, there is a deep undercoveriug of rich crimson upon the dwarfish shrubs ; the lamb's laurel and the blueberry bushes have all arrayed themselves in brilliant colours ; and a little further on, where these are alternated with yellow shining moss, and the water rises and swells between each hummock, and under each prostrate stump, what a venerable scene presents itself! The young growth of spruce and fir has been bereft of life, and would appear most desolate, save that the constant dropping of rain on their withered branches has produced long pendant woolly moss, of the lightest tinge of greenish white ; so that every branch and every trunk waves with venerable locks : it is the very church-yard of trees; every one canies its own ia4 OHAPTEB VII. 0pitaph, and is a memento of the lapse of time. While we look upon the scene, the partridge starts from its covert, or the squirrel flies along the decay* ipg stump of a fallen tree ; they are seeking their food ^m the partridge herries, with their crimson hunches cpntrasting with their leaves of coo) green ; or from tl|e rowan or mountain ash, with its hunches of hlood* red beads, seen more clearly now the leaves are gone. This does not close our picture of the Swamp. I have stood here in the month of February, and viewed a scene surpassing all the jewelled richness of an eastern court. The air was filled with i)ros1^ but a constant rain for some hours previous had fallen, and th« effect of what is called a silver thaw had been produced — every drop has felt the change of tem^ porature, and congealing as it fell, has found a resting place. The firs are filled with emeralds ; the juniper* are loaded with diamonds, their tops n^der the superiu'^ cumbent weight gracefully bending towards the grounds Not a spire of grass, not a tuf^ of moss, is left without its ornament; even the rushes and the stumps 9X^ covered with glittering ^ystals^ After th« rain th^ sky has cleared, and the firost ha9 a^ain followed on the heels of tlm shower, the heavens are all blue* and the earth is all white, and as the rays of the sun glance across the scene, for as the eye can reaoh> it is one of unparaU^eled beauty, and never can be d«scribe4 in half the gk>ry it had put on. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. \m This chapter may be closed appropriately with a few remarks on the aboriginal inhabitants of the pro- vince. The native Indian is associated with the former history of the whole hemisphere, which itself has not been more changed in appearance, than these children of the forest have been changed in their con* dition and circumstances. They are not what they once were, either in appearance or reality ; their glory is departed, and their numbers are few. In the early period of the history of the settlement of the province, there were two tribes af Indians here, both enemies to England, and allies of the French. Many and dreadful aie the incidents belonging to the warfare carried on, and the records of the province still contain the provisions of an act or order in council offering a bounty upon their scalps ; but the hatchet has long been buried, they are a most friendly and harmless people, possessing an interest in their hisjiiory which will remain when they have passed away. The tribe now alone readent in the province is known as the Mkmac Tribe, in number about two hundred and fifty families, ok ajbout one thousand souls. Their moral position is very different from that of many of their red brethren in Canada amen^ theChippeways, inasmuch as almost every attempt to improve their social and moral condition has failed; they ai^ universally attached to the Roman Catholic foim of 186 CHAPTER VII. religion externally, and this has either operated as a barrier, or effectually nullified the efforts if made, to bring them under the influence of experimental religion. The endeavours which have been made among the Canadian tribes of Indians to improve their social condition, have been very successful, whole villages being found in the western parts of that province, where they not only live in houses, and are under the influence of Christian principles, but are learning the useful arts, as well as becoming successfully ac- quainted with agricultural pursuits. It is not so in this province, in very few instances indeed, have any attempts to induce them to forsake their nomade or wandering habits been successful. I remember in crossing Gold River, between Chester and Lunen- burg, passing by a few cottages, surrounded by a small patch of cultivated ground, this was a small settlement of Indians, but the only instance I have heard of. They chiefly dwell in the common wigwam, the frame work being made of a few poles disposed in a circular form, meeting at the top in a conical shape, and covered with birch bark. In the summer they remove to the neighbourhood of towns or villages, a number of wigwams form an encampment, generally on the borders of a stream, or the shores of a harbour, their canoes drawn upon the beach, their children basking in the sun. They earn a scanty subsistence ul NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. 187 by weaving baskets, ingeniously inwrought with withs stained in different colours, by dyes procured from native stores; these they offer for sale from house to house. In the winter they retire into the forest, where they sustain life through that inclement season chiefly by hunting and fishing, again to return in the spring, seeking charity from the white man, or offering ingenious manufactures for a small compensation. Only a few years back there were but few instances in which they were not the slaves of the accursed fire- waters, which they called backtawitch; miserable in- stances of their depraved habits in this respect, both among males and females, were continually falling be- fore the observation of every passer-by in the public streets, but, lately, the priests have followed the praise- worthy example of one of their own order at home, and the temperance medal and the crucifix are often seen hanging side by side round the necks of many of these wild children of the forest. During the last few years indeed, additional interest seems generally to have been awakened in their be- half. A commissioner has been appointed by the House of Assembly to overlook their interests, to report concerning them year by year, and it is to be hoped that these interests may be so secured, that the remnant that is left may be preserved, and led to ob- tain those principles which may secure their well-being. Their subjection to their spiritual guides, if we can 188 CHAPTBB VII. regard them as under spiritual guidance at all, has been stiikingly evinced a short time ago. On the demise of their aged chief, a dispute arose about the succession, two candidates having claimed that dis- tinction. Instead of raising the war cry, and testing the right by force of might, it was agreed to lay their respective claims before the Catholic Bishop resident in Halifax. The aisles of the chapel were trodden by the moccasins of the tribes; the claims were severally preferred in the house of their w(»9hip ; the decision wa3 made before the altar ; the interference of the Bishop was satisfactory ; the right of the de- cision was unquestioned, being received with un- qualified submission; the newly elected chief was then invested with the insignia of ofiice ; homage was tendered to him by every Indian present ; and a pro- cessicHi was afterwards formed, which wended its way to Government house, when the whole party pre- sented their chief; tendered their respects to their " great mother's" representative, and concluded their vi^it to the Governor, Lord Falkland, with the native dance., It ought not to be forgotten or omitted, that the Nova Scotia Philanthropic Society have assumed a kind of conventional guardianship of Indian rights. In their anniversary of the landing of Governor Cornwallis, an^i the settlement of Halifax — observed by them every 8th of June — the Indians take a part NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. 189 in their procession ; the last time that I saw the old chief was on one of these annual festivals ; he was seated with his squaw in a gentleman's carriage, decked with evergreens; they were covered with ornaments peculiar to their race, dressed in royal Indian style, maintaining the peculiar gravity of demeanour for which they are so remarkable. Thus they headed the procession, followed by their tribe, and at the close of the day's entertainment they were regaled with plenty of substantial fare, the tables being spread in the grand parade, concluding the repast with the usual dance. The last newspaper paragraph whicn I have seen concerning them, stated that an application had been made, by the newly installed chief Francis Paul, to the House of Assembly, for means to enable him to undertake a journey to England, to follow the example of the Ojibbeways from the shores of Lake Huron, and lay his claims, and those of his tribe, personally, before Her Majesty the Queen. CHAPTER EIGHTH. PERILS OF THE COAST. When by the dreadful tempest borne, High on the broken wave ; They know thou ai-t not slow to hear, Nor impotent to save. Wedey'H Hymns. The heaviest individual calamities which are sus- tained in this world, are not hy any means those which are publicly known ; many an object for com- miseration and sympathy is hidden amidst the ob- scurity of the situation in which it may be found, while a similar application may be made with respect to instances of remarkable deliverance through the in- terposition of Providence. There have been many such published to the world in connection with those more promiuently engaged in noted enterprises, which would appear almost insignificant if contrasted with some of the hardships and providential deliverances of those engaged in similar avocations, though in an PERILS OF THE COAST. 191 humbler capacity. We may be more assured of this fact if we confine ourselves to seafaring experience. An extensive calamity, as the wreck of a large vessel, and the loss of many human lives, has very naturally elicited the sympathy of the public thus acquainted with the fact, while many a smaller craft has been driven ashore, and its small ill-fated crew have suffered hardships, and experienced providential deliverances, which have been, perhaps, greater in amount, and more marked in circumstance, but have never been known beyond the limit of the hamlet or village with which their interests have been connected. These thoughts have often risen in my mind, while resid- ing for a few years immediately on the coast, and they are intended to be illustrated by the contents of this chapter. The last year of my residence there ap- peared peculiarly marked by calamities of this charac • ter, a few of which came under my immediate notice. One of these was the wreck of a brig from St. Andrews, lumber laden, she was capsized in a heavy gale in the month of December, and became water- logged; that is, being laden with timbfer, she con- tinued to float, but was full of water, her deck brought level with the surface of the sea. Under such circum- stances, access is necessarily cut off from whatever food there may be below ; the cabin and* the hold are alike inaccessible. The captain died in the sight of all the crew on the deck that same afternoon ; they 192 CHAPTER VIII. thought he died of a broken heart. Fourteen long days and nights they remained tvithout asfiistance, and every day added to the deaths and diminished their numbers ; they had no fire, and no food, except one bag of ship biscuit saturated with salt water; even this failed the last day or two, and on the fourteenth day there were three souls, expecting every hour to be their last, and these were all that were left. Tn the afternoon a sail bore down towards them, but the mate died as they drew near, and a man and a boy, with their feet frozen, were brought from this wreck, and landed on the coast at Barrington, where they were lying in a most pitiable condition when I visited the place. The same gale also proved fatal to another vessel belonging to Yarmouth, and to all its crew, for none were left to be narrators of their troubles, and yet we became but too well acquainted with what those troubles must have been. A homeward bound vessel from this port fell in with this one, which had been capsized, dismasted, and waterlogged ; from seeing no one on board, they concluded the crew had be^ taken off, but as they knew the vessel and the crew also, they boarded her. They then found a small shelter erected in tlie forepart of the ship between the wind- lass and the bows, and on entering this, they saw four of the ill-fated crew lying dead, with the remains of a poor dog, half^aten, lying near to them. It is im- PERILS OF THK COAST. 193 possible to conceive what their sufferings must have been ; it was imagined that the vessel was thrown over in a sudden squall, and the rest of their crew were drowned in their berths below. Other narratives of distress similar to these might be easily penned, and from circumstances which have occurred very near to my observation, but it is not my wish to harrow the feelings of the reader with painful nanatives; it is rather my desire to select from several instances that which appears most forcibly to have struck my own mind, as realizing marked providential interposition in the time of imminent danger, and illustrative also of the design announced, to glance at the " perils of the coast." It was in the regular course of pastoral visitation that I found myself one afternoon at the house of one of the members of the society, and the leader of a class, who was suffering under severe and acute rhemnatic pains: in the course of conversation, the individual expressed his fears that in every succeeding winter he should be exposed to similar suffering, his constitution being entirely broken by an occurrence of former years. As the person who made these remarks was com- paratively young, or in the prime of life, my curiosity was excited, and the expression of it elicited the materials which have been thrown together into the following narrative, o 194 CHAPTER VIII. It may be here premised, for the better understan^J- iug of ihe following account, if it has not been suffi- ciently made plain in a former chapter, that the south- western extremity of the province forms the eastern shore of the Bay of Fundy, commencing at the angle formed by Cape Sable. Halifax, the capital, is dis- tant from the cape about one hundred and fifty miles due east ; and from the same cape, up the bay, in a northerly direction. Cape Fourchee and the town of Yarmouth are distant about thirty-five miles. Pa- rallel with Cape Sable, running west about fifteen miles, are the Seal Islands, on which the Royal Mail steamship Columbia was lost — between these islands and Cape Sable in fine weather the passage for Yar- mouth from Halifax is usually taken. Again, in ad- vancing towards Yarmouth from the cape, there are some other groups of Islands, those nearest in-shore are called the Tuskit Islands, and midway between these and the Seal Islands are others called Mud Islands ; it was on one of these that the circumstances took place now to be described. Destitute as they are of any shelter, the preservation of life here must at best be precarious, but much more so in the depth of a Nova Scotia winter, and without the means of procuring either fire or food. But we are anticipating our narrative. The individual in question, left Yarmouth on the 4th day of November, 1832, in company with two PERILS OF THE COAST. 195 6ther men and a boy, in a small schooner called the " Adventme;" their object being to trade at the different ports to the eastwaid, by exchanging produce and dry goods for saltfish. In six days they were at Ketch Har- bour, in Chebucto bay, about twelve miles from Hali- fax ; and here, in the course of a month, they finished the main object of their voyage, having procured about one hundred and twenty barrels of mackerel and herring, with some dried cod fish and a little oil. Their desire now was to return to their homes in Yarmouth, and it was at the close of their homeward voyage, that the following disasters took place. On the 1st day of December, about three o'clock in the morning, they sailed from Ketch Harbour in company with another vessel, hoping, by the follow- ing night, according to the usual custom, to make a comfortable harbour on their way towards home. In this they were disappointed ; the wind was light when they stood out to sea, and before they had crossed St. Margaret's Bay, (the first great indentation of the land to the westward of Halifax) it became bafliing and calm. Towards evening a lowering sky portended an approaching storm; the vessel which sailed in company with them was nearer the shore, about four miles ahead, and likely to make a harbour with the first breeze ; but they were further out to sea ; at sunset their fears were realized ; a breeze sprung up at soulh-eac»t, with snow; at first they hoped to be 196 CHAPTER VIII. able to run for La Have, but the snow increasing, they judged it more prudent to try to make Liverpool light. At this time, the wind also increased; they reefed their foresail, and shortly stowed the mainsail and jib. By nine o'clock P.M. it blew a gale ; they feared to run for the land any longer, altered their course, and stood out to sea ; running south for two hours to clear the land, and then steering south-west. it was not long before, by accident, the foresail jibbed, and the sail itself was split. This was a real source of uneasiness to them, as their only other sail was so weak that they durst not hoist it, and they were conse- quently compelled to lay too under bare poles, ex- posed to all the fury of the waves. In the course of the night, their only boat broke looser what part of the cargo they had stowed on deck was adrift, and they were obliged to heave it overboard as quickly as possible. An expedient here suggested itself to them, which proved a temporary relief — they broached a cask of oil, and poured it on the waves — this smoothed the sea around them for a short time, but the advan- tage was only felt for a limited period. The next day was Saturday ; the wind had hauled to the north-east, and was still blowing a gale. The sea was raging tremendously high ; the surging billows swept, wave after wave, over their little craft, and by this time, the sails were so much frozen, that they could neither repair the one nor the other. Under these PERILS OF THE COAST. 197 circumstances it was thought impossible that the vessel could live through the night in such a sea ; two seas struck her so violently, that they hove her down on her broadside ; the cargo shifted, the jib broke loose, and before it could be stowed, the blocks and frozen ropes attached to it, were shattered to pieces. Under these discouraging circumstances, they were able to recognise the favours of Providence ; they found a cask of water jammed between the bulwarks and the binnacle, which in the morning they were able to lower into the hold. On this day (Sunday) towards evening, the wind abated, and on Monday it was quite moderate, but their strength was so far ex- hausted, that they were scarcely able to avail them- selves of it, not one of them having slept for three nights, nor had they cooked a single meal. The keenness of the weather had now somewhat mitigated ; the wind breezed up from the south, and judging themselves to have drifted before the gale to the southward of Seal Islands and Cape Sable, they once more unfurled, and hoisted their mainsail and jib, hauled up on a south-east course, and stood for the land. But now a new trouble arose ; they were suddenly afflicted with loss of sight, and on making an attempt to repair their damaged foresail, even com- pelled to give up in despair ; however, they began to recover their sight towards evening, and made every efSoxt to fall in with the land. 198 CHAPTEa VIII. Again they were visited with a south-east gale ; were obliged or^,e more to stand off from the land ; fii-st reefed, and then took in sail altogether, again lying to with her hull exposed to all the violence of the waves. This was described as being a most fear- ful night, the wind blew a hard gale, the rain fell in torrents, the sea was running mountains high, and they, wet and cold, without fire, worn out for want of sleep, were expecting every moment to be engulfed in the waves. Still, upon distress so deep, the morning dawned ; again hope revived ; the experiment with the oil was again resorted to, and they were again relieved : they now hoped to be able to make sail, but suddenly the wind chopped round and blew in heavy squalls from the north, with severe cold. This con- tinued till noon, when it moderated somewhat ; they got close reefed sails upon her, and stood to the east- ward. On Wednesday morning it was calm, and the wind sprang up from the south-west ; from soundings ob- tained, they now judged themselves between Seal Islands and the cape, and steered accordingly. By sun-down, the wind veered to the west, then to the north-west, blowing fresh and squally. Again they took in sail, and about ten o'clock saw the land, but not knowing it, determined to lie off and on till day* light. When the sun rose, they found themselves near Tuskit Islands, but owing to the heavy sea, dared PERILS OF THE COAST. 199 not to make more sail upon the vessel. While their hopes were thus raised at the prospect of soon making a harhour among the islands, with which they were well acquainted, and could ride safely at anchor, they were again suhject to disappointment. It was now ehb tide, and the well known strength of the currents in the Bay of Fundy set at nought all calculation ; they made very little progress, the wind also headed them off; they knew themselves to be in the neighbour- hood of dangerous ledges, and the result proved a ful- fillment of all their fears. The words of the individual from whom this account was received will best describe their situation : he said, " Thinking our troubles nearly ended, without any expectation of immediately being in danger, I went below to get something to eat, as I came on deck, I heard them express their fears that they would not be able to clear the ledge. T saw the danger in a moment, let go the mainsheet, but immediately she struck ; had she heaved her own length further, she would have gone clear; she now struck violently a second time, and then cleared the ledge. The Mud Islands were very near to us ; I seized the pump, another the helm, and we stood for the island before us. At this time the water was gaining fast upon us ; we had lost our boat the first night, and had no means of abandoning the vessel. I attempted to cut away the masts, to lighten her, for we had no means of 200 CHAPTER VIIT. hoisting sail. I cast my eyes down the companion and saw the chests floating in the' cahin ; we surged past a rocky point to the westward of the island, and were within a hundred yards of the shore, when she suddenly went down." ^ What a trying moment for the adventurous and hardy seaman ! Under favourable , circumstances he knows that there is but a plank between him and an ocean grave ; but when he feels that sole support to be sinking from beneath his feet, and that another moment will find him struggling with the waves — the liquid tomb of thousands of his fellow men — how needful then that grace which points him assuredly to a place in a better world, a haven of eternal rest — " Where all the ship's company meet, Who have sailed with the Saviour beneath." This grace had been received and enjoyed before this time of need by the person of whom I write, and it proved a sure arm of defence and support when almost every other hope was gone. The schooner sank in rather shoal water ; her bows were submerged, but the stern was light, and a small portion of the quarter rail was above the surface of the water : to this they clung, the sea making a complete breach over them. After the first shock was over, their efforts were directed to some means whereby they might be able to reach the shore ; they cleared the mainboom and gaff, lashed them together, and PERILS OF THB COAST. 201 each taking a piece of board from the bulwarks, they hoped, by placing themselves on this frail raft, to be able to paddle themselves ashore. The attempt was no sooner made, than they were upset into the water by the raft turning over; and, had there not been a rope unsevered, which had escaped their notice, but which still connected the raft with the wreck, they must all have perished. They were just able to regain the wreck, but the sun was almost down, they were nearly perished with wet and cold, and yet they well knew, that unless they reached the shore before it was dark, they could never live to see the morning light. At length two of their number made an attempt to reach the shore, leaving a man and a boy upon the wreck, the latter being so nearly exhausted that it be- came necessary to lash him to the rail. The two suc- ceeded in reaching the island ; and, though scarcely able to stand, after being so long in the water, the sight of those still remaining behind induced them to exertion. They prepared a small raft, and very soon all were on the land alive. The prospect, even now, could scarcely have been more discouraging; they were on one of the mud islands, where there was not a tree to shelter them ; their clothes were wet, and their feet were freezing : a cold winter's night was setting in, and they had no means for procur- ing fire, nor did they succeed in making one. 202 CHAPTER VIII. during the nine days they remained on this deso- late spot. At this time, they fully expected that the hoy would not live till morning ; he was nearly exhausted, hut humanity prompted the use of extraordinary means, and a kind providence rendered those means successful. They immediately, and very prudently, commenced exercising themselves in walking as fast and as far as their strength would allow ; and, while thus engaged, they discovered a solitary sheep ; a small flock was afterwards found, hut this appeared to have strayed from the rest, directly in their path. One of them suggested that the waim skin, fresh from the slaughtered sheep, might save the hoy's life ; in half an hour they had killed this one, and skinued it, wrapping the skin closely round the naked hody of the boy. They then covered him with grass, which they pulled with their hands, and left him to attend to their own safety. The night was spent in more serious play than such exercise is usually employed for ; running, wrestling, rolling on the ground, and other kinds of exercise, were alternately used ; and in this manner the long tedious night was passed ; they a wH not sit down for even a few minutes, without fer r v/ J ^ limbs pt'lTen- ing to that degree, that they nau immediately to re- new their efforts to preserve their lives. During the night, a ve^'- el passed the island almost within hail ; PERILS OF THE COAST. 203 but, even in the day time, no mariner would have directed his eye thither, with the expectation of seeing a human being. In the morning the boy was uncovered, and found to be considerably relieved : they themselves also felt somewhat better, and began to collect drift boards and timber, to erect some place of shelter, which, when it was made, they covered with grass. They had now to contend with another disadvantage,— hunger op- pressed them; the sheep which they had killed was their only resource, and this was eaten raw. One of them said, under these circumstances, " I felt more thankful for this meal than I have often done after a sumptuous repast." During the night, they again nearly perished with cold, through a cold rain storm ; their camp being like a basket, the wind and rain' penetiated on every side. It was Thursday evening when the schooner sank with them, and now Sunday morning dawned, the blessed Sabbath. They were not more thau twenty miles from home, but, alas ! how destitute, and no one acquainted with their need, but that merciful Providence, which ultimately saved them all from death. On this sabbath day they scarcely left the camp, except to gather some mussels on the beach ; through weakness of the stomach, they began to loathe the raw food, and again did heaven provide. On ex- 204 CHAPTER VIII. amining where the wreck lay, they found it driven up so high, that, at low water, they were ahle to reach it, and enter the cabin, from which they procured some cheese, a bag of apples, and some bedding; these were soaked with salt water, but they proved a great relief. Nor were they able, after this, to procure any more from the vessel before she went to pieces. The following day being fine, ihey dried their blankets in the sun, added some canvass from the old sails to the covering of their tent, and improved it so far every day, that, for three succeeding nights, they slept very well. It may be a matter of inquiry, whether great com- plaints to each other of personal sufferings followed their present position : it was not the case. They suffered principally in their feet, which swelled so much, that they could wear no covering to protect them, nor take sufficient exercise : but even this was but lightly thought of, compared with their earnest desire to escape from their lonely situation. It was about two days after this, that, the weather being fine, they saw vessels in the distance, crossing Lobster Bay ; but knowing that, under no circum- stances, except by danger like their own case, would any vessel come within speaking distance, they saw the importance of erecting some signal to attract the notice of passing ships. For this purpose they col- lected casks and empty baviels, which had floated ashore from the schooner, now ^^one to pieces ; these. PERILS OF THE COAST. 205 with timber and boards, they heaped together so as to form an object calculated to arrest attention. The thought then forced itself upon their minds, that they had done all in their power ; and often did the alter- native of no relief, and lingering death, occur with painful sensations; but they then betook themselves to prayer ; and, after pouring out their wants before the Lord, committed themselves afresh to his holy keeping. On the following Saturday, in the evening, they saw a vessel to the eastward, but so far off, that they could not tell which way she was standing ; not did the sight affect them much, for the sun, being only about an hour and a half high, they did not think she could come near them before dark, as the wind was light. They, therefore, prepared again for rest ; a piece of raw mutton, some cheese, and a draught of water, was their portion for supper, of which they now partook, and found that the vessel was not only stand- ing towards them, but was rapidly approaching nearer. Then hope began to revive in their hearts ; but there was an intervening island between them and where they expected that the vessel would pass ; so that they scarcely ventured to anticipate their deliverance. They also saw her alter her course, so as to give the islands a wider berth ; and again she came to, and stood towards them. There was, in fact something very remarkable in the direct interposition of provi- deuce for their rescue. This was a brig belonging to 206 CHAPTER VIII. Yarmouth, with a Yarmouth captain and crew. The master afterwards stated that three several times he made the attempt to keep his vessel away ; hut the wind appeared each time to meet him a point or two, and he still continued his course. Without particu- larly noticing this, until afterwards, on coming nearer the 'slands, one of the hands remarked that he saw something strange on Mud Island, and he believed there were some men upon it. Well knowing that if there were men, they must be in distress, this remark gained attention ; and now some others perceived the strange object, which was, in fact, the signal erected by the poor wrecked seamen. But it was now growing dark, and the thought of being nearly home was a temptation to induce the captain, if possible, to avoid delay ; however, that there was something very un- usual on the island could, by this time, be seen by all from the deck of the brig ; and the captain, at length, said that, if any chose to volunteer for the service, they might take the ship's boat, and he would heave to till they returned. Plenty of volunteers were soon found : need the rest be told ? They found the dis- tressed crew — they were their townsmen, their neigh- bours, their friends. Fire and food, and kind atten- tion, awaited them on board the brig; and on Sab- bath morning, December the 16th — an anniversary never forgotten since — they were restored to their families and home. NOTTINGHAM : PRINTED BY WILLIAM DEARDEN, CARLTON STREET.