IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ Hi ITS |Z5 m 2.0 m 1.4 i.6 m yQ /. '^ C^ > ^4"'^'^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 4v iV L17 \\ 6\ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) 872-4503 A Z CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The ^istitute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this ccpy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier un!? image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Coloured pages/ I I Covers damaged/ D D D D n D D Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pelliculde I I Cover title missing/ D Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes g6ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela • tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas dt6 film^es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires; n n D H Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurdes et/ou pellicul^es Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages ddtachdes Showthrough/ Transparence I I Quality of print varies/ Quality in^gale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplementaire Gnly edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 filmdes d nouveau de fapon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X SOX / 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X plaire es details liques du ant modifier >xiger une de filmage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Dana Porter Arts Library University of Waterloo The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in Iteeping with the filming contract specifications. L'exemplaire filmd fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit6 de: Dana Porter Arts Library University of Waterloo Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetd de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. 9d/ iqudes Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimis sont film6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par le dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol ^^> (meaning "CON- TINUED "). or the symbol V (meaning "END "), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaTtra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — »- signifie 'A SUiVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". taire Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent 6tre film^s d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lo>!^que le document est trop grand pour dtre rep^citiit en un seul cliche, il est film6 A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche it droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. i by errata med to rent une pelure, fapon d 9. 1 2 3 1 32X T|> Air ■',' / :■ ,, /■j -tS^ 1) WILL! AM 1). ^uWAIUrS TpAii fvj iPfjii ^•^ 111- lUiiir^ Er->iKi> rr C z mm < n M (1 *4 " A mi;;1ity maw. hut "^ i wi:l»(«it a jil'ir P./iT. f3 / 7- // iV r ://:.':■' -r/^ A. i I. u i: s r li . ! 7- / c/ A" ;j . 51$ 1 w p 1). APPLKTOx ^M) COMPANY ft 4 1! A f;r> ; ni!J omenclature. — Weber Canon. — Salt Lake City. — 'ilie Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood. — Brigham Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepressible Conflict in Utah. — The Shoshones. — Destiny of the Indians. — Sierra Nevada. — Reno. — Railroads. — Result of Abolition of Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San Fran- cisco. — Civilization of California. — Chinese Immigration, .... 3 II, From San Francisco to Japan : The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. — Our Fel- low-Passengers. — "The Great Company of the Preachers." — The Chinese Pas. sengers. — The Great Event of the Voyage. — The Moods of the Sea. — A Still Greater Event. — The Loss of a Day. — The Oyascutus. — The Beginning of the End. — The Coast of Japan. — The Ocean-Fisheries, 31 PART II. JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. I. Yokohama and i.s Vicinity : The Bay of Yokohama. — Natives and Foreigners. — Native Costunes. — Japanese Barbers. — The Tokaido. — Japanese Cemeteries, Gardens, and Temples. — Monks and '.lunasteries. — Kamakura. — The Great Statu - of Buddha.— The Daibutz, 39 IL Visit to Ykddo. — Interview avith the Mikado: Interview with the Japanese Prime-Minister. — Tremendous Storm. — Some Points of History. — The Mikado and the Tycoon. — Japanese Foreign Office. — Minister Sawa. — The Question of Saghalien. — Tlie Toii.bs of the Tycoons. — A Speck of War. — The Delmonico of Yeddo. — Sketcbc of Ycddo. — The Interview with the Mikado, . . 53 III. From Yeddo to Shanghai : Iliogo. — The Place of Massacre. — A Japanese Steamer. —The Gulf of Osaka,— A Harem on a Picnic.— The City of Osaka.— The Ty- coon's Castle. — Japanese Troops. — Nagasaki. — Beautiful Scenery. — Christians of Nagasaki. — Japanese Character. — Departure ibr China. — Concluding Re- flections on Japan, 86 < n f3 '1 1 :] w ^1 r* CI i; u r? H IV CONTENTS. ! i I CnAP. IV. The Coast of China: Wosung. — U. S. Ship Colorado. — Slianf;lmi. — European " Conoc.-^sions." — A Mandiuiii Procession.—Chi-Tujt'U nnd Suii-Taji'ii. — Kuro- poan and Cliino.se Civilization. — Forcijin rri\ju(rn'os against tlio Cliineso. — The Shan Tung. — The Yellow Sea. — The News from Franee. — Chee-l'oo, the New- port of Chnia. — A Rough Voyage, 105 V. Up thk Pki-iio Uiveii : Mouth of the Pei-ho. — Chinese Forts. — American Guns'. — The Most Crooked and Mean of Rivers. — Chinese Dog.s. — A Misunderstanding. — Captain Wang. — Our Flotilla. — The City of Tien-Tsin. — Aspect of the Conn- try.— Our IJoat-Life. — Absence of Animals, — A Messenger from Peking. — A Chinese Trailer.— Tung-Chow, 123 VI. Arrival at Pekiso : Passing through Tung-Chow. — Good Behavior of the People. — The Road to Peking. — A Dangerous Highway. — Daniel Webster and John Adams. — A Review of Our Party. — A (irotcsque Procession. — The Eastern Gate of Peking. — The Separation of the Party. — Anxiety for Mr. Seward. — lu Woful Plight. — An Explanation. — Arrival at the U. S. Legation, . . . 138 VII. Residence in Peking: Aspect of Peking. — The Walk on the Wall. — The Foreign Population of Peking. — Two American Chinese. — Native Wares. — The F'oreign Ministers. — The Russian Minister. — The British Legation. — Influence of the United States.— The Hall of Science. — Mr. Seward's Audience with the Imperial Cabinet. — A Ladies' Day. — Chinese Ladies. — A Chinese Mansion, . 145 VIII. Residence in Peking (Continued): The Decay of China. — The Temple of Heaven. — The Temple of Agriculture, — The Temple of Buddha. — The Chinese Bonzes. — The Temple of Confucius. — The Religion of China. — A Pleasant Reunion. — The Birds of Peking. — An Official Dilemma. — Interview with Wau-Siang. — In- fluence of Burlingame, 168 IX. Visit to the Great Wall : Preparations for the Trip. — Our Vehicles. — The Summer Palace. — Pagodas. — First Night under a Chinese Roof. — A Chinese Tavern. — Approach to the Great Wall. — The Mongolians. — The Cost of the W'all. — Inquisitive Chinese. — The Second Wall. — The Ming Tombs. — A Mis- guided Mule, 188 X. Last Days in Peking : Cham-Ping-Chow. — A Chinese Inn. — The Roman Catho- lies in China. — The Cathedral.— The Tien-Tsin Massacre. — Christian Policy. — Interview with Robert Hart. — A Letter from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen. — Letter from Prince Kung. — Interview with the Prince. — The Prince's Present. — De- parture from Peking, 211 XI. The Return to Shanghai: Once more on he Pei-ho. — The Ladies at Tien-Tsin. — The Shan Tung. — Pigeon English. — Tempestuous W'eather. — Visit to the Flag-ship Colorado. — Departure of Mr. and Mrs. Randall. — On board the Plym- outh Rock, 222 XII. Up the Yang-t -e-Kiang : The Mississippi of China. — 'Jhing-Kiang. — Large Freights. — Nanking. — The Porcelain Tower. — A Specimen Brick. — Abundance of Game. — Scenery on the River. — Ku-Kiang. — Conversation with Mr. Drew. — Policy of the United States. — ITan-Kow. — Ascent of the Promontory. — Magnificent View. — Cheerful Aspect of Han-Kow. — Excursion to W^oo-Chang. — A Disagreeable Adventure, 227 Xin. Return to Shanghai : Departure from Han-Kow. — Chinese Military Art. — A Marvellous Echo, — The Imperial Canal. — Approach to Chin-Kiang. — The United States Steamer Alaska. — Running down a Junk. — An Apology from the Viceroy. — The Comprador. — Chinese Ladies. — Embark on an English Steamer, 241 ruAP, XIV, FnoM Sua: men, — '1 Acciuain XV, From Hon — C.mto America — Maiiu XVL Canton ( School-I The Clii cution.- XVII. At Hong-] I'lshcric Dinner i I]astorn XVIII. A Gi.ANri: F'ellow-I French . bodia. THE EAST. L The Chin. Home.— Boston.- — A Dul and Sun II. TiiK Capit England —The C —The ^ zorg, . III. Excursion Flowers, is goveri —The r IV. Mr. Sewai The Wn —A Clr ban.— P The Jap V. At Batavi fast.— A Dutch C VI. From Bat Singapoi —Bay Gallc— CONTENTS. ,' ) CUAV. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. FiiOM SnANT.iiAi TO IIoso-KoNfi : Had AVcatlier. — Cold Wcitlior. — V.-Jiicty of Sca- iiu'ii. — The Sliip's Accoiiiinotliitionrt, — IIoiiu-Koii;^. — Itciuitil'iil Seeiicry. — Old Ac(|iiaiiitiint'cs roiiewcd. — Native iiiul l"'oroii.;ii Populiition, . . . 249 FiiOM HoNd-KoNfi TO Canton; The Chim'se C<)ustinf;;-T'iii(U'. — Chiiio^o Snmir^lcvs. — Cantor. Uivir-IiaiiUs. — Aspect of Canton. — The liiitish Coneessioii. — The Anieriean Ilonj^s. — The Consul and the Tou-tai. — The Diet of the Cantonese. — Maniifaet urea of Canton. — The Teini)les of Canton, . . . '253 Canton {('onthiucd): A Chinese Villa. — The Hall of Ancestors. — A Chinese Seliool-Hoora. — Another Villa. — An Opium-Den. — Kxtcnt of Opiuin-Sniokini^. — The Chinese Chronometer. — Tluf Street of Malefaetors. — The Place of Kxo- eution.— A City of the Dead.— Canton at Niglit, .... 206 At IloNO-KoNO AGAIN : Chinese Emi^'ration to the United States. — The Canton fisheries. — American Houses in China. — A Conil)ination of (lamlilers. — A Dinner at the United States Consulate. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Oriental and Eastern Civili/ation. — Policy of China. — Prospects of China, . . 275 A Cii.ANCK AT Cochin China: The Steamer Provence. — Island of Ilainati. — Our Fellow-Passen^^crs. — The Mouth of the Saij^on River. — Tiie City of S lij^on. — French Aptitude for Coloniz.ilion. — French Photographs. — The Queen of Cnin- bodia, 284 PART III. I'^nglish TIIE EASTERy ARCHIPELAGO, STRAITS OF MALACCA, AND CEVLOX. :M I. The China Sea, Sinoapore, and the Straits of Sunda ; Our Distance from Home. — Calm Seas and Temperate Hreezes. — Singapore. — A Dispatch from Boston. — The People of Singapore. — Their Habitations. — Life in the Tropics. — A Dutch Steamer. — Our Crew. — A Question of Races. — Rather Hot. — Hanca and Sumatra. — The Straits of Sunda, 295 II. Thk Capital of Java: The City of Hatavia. — The Hotel dcs Indos. — A New- England Sabbatii. — Malay Servants. — The King's Plain. — Population of Java. — The Queen of the East. — Departure for Buitenzorg. — Manner of Travelling. — The Vice-Regal Residence. — The Climate of Java. — The Baths of Buiten- zorg, ,104 III. Excursion into thk Interior : A Balking IIor.se. — Cultivation of Rice. — Tropical Flowers. — Surabaya. — The Regent Prawiro. — Dutch Colonization. — How Java is governed. — Bandong. — The Regent and the Interpreter. — A Gouty Jlonarch. — The Regent's Income. — How he spends it, 318 IV. Mr. Sewari> at Bandong : Excursion to the Cascade. — A Perilous Road. — The Water-Fall. — An Evcnng at the Palace. — The Bayaderes. — Two Dwarfs. — A Chorus of Peasants. — The Little Princesses. — An Excursion to Tankoe- ban. — Peruvian Bark. — The Top of the Volcano. — An Enchanting Scene. — The Japanese Prince, 328 V. At Batavia aoain. — The Malays: Farewell to Bandong. — A Tropical Break- fast. — A Breakfast in the Rotanieal Crardcns. — A Princely Native Artist. — Dutch Colonization. — Character of the Malay Race. — Chinese Immigration, 336 VI. From Batavia to Madras ; An Uncomfortable Steamer. — An Accident. — At Singapore. — Ihitish Hospitality. — The Port of Penang. — A Loyal Englishman. — Hay of Bengal. — Half-Way Round the World. — Arrival at Ceylon. — Point de Galle. — A Short Visit to the Shore. — A Hindoo Crew. — Off Pondichcrrv, 311 c 2 < n 'J Ti' CONTENTS. PART IV. liRITISIl INDIA. Chap. I. MAnnAS : Madras from tlic Sea.— Governor Napier. — The Government House. — A Ili'uloo Giiln' Siliool. — Hishop Ilclwr. — Hiiti.sh Dominion in India. — Kear- Admiral Cockburn. — Maoliincry of (Jovcrnnient. — A Meeting of tlio K.xoeutive Council. — Lord Cornwalli.-*. — Tlie Legislative Council. — Hindoo Mu.sic, . 'Ao'i II. Mahius {Covdnucl): An Excursion to Arcot. — Railroads in Ilindostnn. — Ap- pearance of the Country. — The Homage of Flowers. — Cauvcrypak. — The Na- tive System of Cultivation. — Visit to a liramin. — Schools. — A Car of Jugger- naut. — The Dutch Reformed Mission. — Hack to Madras. — The Portuguese Settlement. — (iindy Park. — A Diamond Merchant. — Lord and Lady Nipicr. — The Normal School, 305 III. From Mai)r.\s to Calcutta : The Surf at ^ladras. — On the Ray of Rcngal. — The Lion-Whelps. — The Hoogly. — The A'iceroy's Invitation. — Earl and Count- ess Mayo. — Glimpses of Calcutta. — The Raboo. — The Baboo's House and Harem. — The Government House, 377 IV. Calcutta {Continued): The Maharajah of Puttcc.ala. — Oriental Magnificence. — Kali Ghaut. — The Temple. — Hindoo Idols. — KaH. — Siva. — A Mohammedan Mosque. — The Reading of the Budget. — Indian Finances. — The King of Gudc. —The Prince of Oudo, 388 V. Barrackpore and Serampore : Barrackpore Park and its Beauties. — Magnifi- cent Trees. — The Menagerie. — The Lion-Whelps. — Seramporc. — Its Mission- aries and Mission-Schools. — Return from Barrackpore. — Fort William. — The Woman's Union Missionary Society and its Schools, .... 398 VI. From Calcutta to Benares : Courtesy of the East India Railway Company. — Unattractive Scenery. — The Scenery improves. — Aspect of the Country and the People. — A Stop at Patna. — A Tiger Hunter. — The Cultivation of the Poppy. — The Maharajah of Benares. — A Night on the Ganges. — A Brilliant Display. — Glory Hallelujah. — A Compliment to Mr. Seward, . . 102 VII. Benares : The Sacred City of the Hindoos. — The Cradle of Buddhism. — Sornath. — Remarkable Towers. — The Holy River. — The Ghauts. — Singular Architecture. — The Mosques and their Minarets. — A Picturesque Scene on the River-Bank. — S /a and Doorga. — Manufacture of Idols. — Magnificence of Benares, . 408 VIII. Allahabad, Lucknow, and Agra : Allahabad, the City of God. — Cawnpore. — Lucknow, the Capital of Oude. — Extent of the Country. — Arrival at Agra. — A Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empire. — Akbar the Great. — His Vast Architectural Works. — The Pearl Mosque. — Futtehpore Sikra. — Its Great Wall.— The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishti.— The Ranch Mahal— Akbar's Tomb. — His Wealth. — His Horses and his Elephants. — Weighing his Presents, 418 IX. Secundra and the Taj-Mahal : The Tomb of Akbar. — Derivation of the Name of Secundra. — The Taj-Mahal, the Tomb of the Banoo Begum. — Description of the Taj.— The Tomb of King Cotton.— The Inferiority of Indian Cotton. — Mode of packing it, 433 X. Delhi, the Mogul Capital : A Vivid Contrast to Agra. — Ludlow Castle.— Brief Sketch of Hindoo ni.rtory. — The Persians. — The Greeks. — The Arabs.— Sultan Mahmoud. — The Mongols or Moguls. — Foundation of Delhi. — Successive Changes of Site. — The Kootub Minar. — A Singular Iron Shaft. — The Mogul Tombs.— The Tomb of Jchanara.— The Jumna Musjid. — The Imperial Palace. — Farewell to Delhi 441 Chap. XL Umballa a Mutiny.- Puttecala — Entran 1 XH. Puttkeala The Pris r r glcrs.— T The Youi rajah's C( 'i XIIL A (!lance of the J I luminatio the Ilinui < XIV. ALLAIIABAn of India.- bulpoor.— i^ and Beau XV. Bombay : T bay. — A Afglian, a and the '^ ■ and Parse i i Excursion '^ XVL An Excursi 1 dicament. History Character ReminiscL XVII. Last Days ful Ackn( Indies of ble.— The ;^ — Departi j XVIIL From Bombj ard's Ren doo Mind of Socotr A New St I. The Red S The Port the Red Track of Inaugura CONTENTS. Vll I'lUP. XI. UwnAi.LA AND ruTTEKALA : McpHit, tlio Pccnc of tlio Oiitbrcnk of the fircnt Mutiny. — Hindoo rilgrims. — Fii;*t Vimv of the Himaliiyns. — Invitationa to ruttecalu. — .lourni'y thither. — The (Mty of Puttecahi. — ('oudu's or KlcphiinLs ? — Entrance into I'utteeala. — A Magnificent Procession. — Our I'alace, . 4.'')2 XII. rvTrv.v.Ai.\(C(>nliinic(l): Oriental Displays an>l Diversions. — The Mena};;erie. — The I'risons. — The Heir-Apparent. — An Klephant-Fight. — .testers and Jug- glers. — The Royal Palace. — Magnifieenee ol" the Maharajah. — The Durhar. — The Young Prince. — Superb Presents. — A Magnificent Salon. — The Maha- rajah's Conversation with Mr. Seward. — An Kxhibition of Fireworks, . 459 XIII. A (!lance at tiik Himalayas: Departure from Puttecala. — Along the Banks of the Junina. — I'roteetion from the Sun. — Reception at Pindarrie. — An Il- lumination. — Kalka and Ku^sowlee. — Tiie Ibitish Commissioner. — A View of the Himalayas. — An Irish Home, 471 XIV. Allaii.viia» and JunncLPOOii: An Interesting Debate. — Earl Mayo, the Viceroy of India. — His Murder. — Tfie Vindhya Mountains. — Industrial Activity of Jub- bulpoor. — An Elephant-Ride. — A Night Voyage on the Nerbudda. — Romantic and Beautiful Scenery. — Hindoo Tenderness for Animals, . . . 477 XV. Bombay : The Ghaut Mountains. — A Cosmopolitan City. — The Natives of Bom- bay. — A Mixed Population. — Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh, Afghan, and Cashmerian. — The Races of the South and the North, of the East and the West. — Parsee Customs. — Parsee Religion. — Hindoo, Mohammedan, and Parsee Disposal of the Dead. — Admiral Coekburn. — The Great Heat. — An Excursion to Elcphanta, 482 XVI. An Excursion to Goa : A Voyage on the Coast of Malabar. — A Perilous Pre- dicament. — Dubious Navigation. — Situation of Goa. — OITieial Courtesies. — History of Goa. — The Old City. — St. Francis Xavier. — Miraculous Cures,— Character of Xavier. — Public Institutions. — The Governor's Villa. — Historical Reminiscences. — A Goa Poet. — A Cordial Farewell, .... 492 XVII. Last Days in Bombay : The Byculla Club,— Mr. Seward's Speech. — His Grate- ful Acknowledgments to his Entertainers. — The Indies of the East and the Indies of the West. — Growing Civilization of the East. — A Progress irresisti- ble. — The New Concord. — Policy of the Anglo-Saxon Race. — Miss Wessner. — Departure from Bombay, 501 XVIII. From Bombay to Aden : Once more at Sea. — The Steamer Deccan. — Mr. Sew- ard's Remarks on India. — Natural Religion. — The Characteristics of the Hin- doo Mind, — England's Hold on India. — The Regeneration of India. — The Island of Soeotra. — Arrival at Aden. — An Extinct Volcano. — Wise Old England ! — A New Stage of the Voyage. — Red-Haired Negroes, .... 506 PART V. EGYPT AND PALESTINE. I. The Red Sea and Sue;! Canal : The Gate of Tears,— The Rock of Perim.— The Port of Mecca. — Imaginary Terrors, — Pleasant Weather. — The Coasts of the Red Sea. — The Division of the Races. — A Refreshing Atmosphere, — Tho Track of the Israelites, — Suez. — The Ancient Canal. — The New Canal. — Its Inauguration. — Its Prospects, . . . - . , . . 519 c O > 1 f9 I) \ VIU CONTENTS. CnAP. II. Ill, IV. VI. VII. vin. IX. ,'-* From SrEZ to Cairo : The Bedouin Arabs. — A AVady.— Go<-hcn. — Nubian Troop!!. — A Hiilendid Sunset.— Tlie Pulaco of Repose. — The Khedive. — Tlic Popula- tion of Egypt. — The Khedive's Improvements. — A Visit to the Harem. — The Female Slaves. — Egypt and Utah, 028 Cairo and the Pyramids • The Road to tlie Pyramids. — The Stylo of the Vice- roy. — Interior of the Great Pyramid. — The Sphinx. — Mariette Bey. — Use of the Pyramids. — Rapacious Arabs. — The Phcenix. — The Site of On. — Ruins of Heliopolis. — The Tree of the Holy Family. — Mohammed Tauphik. — The Amer- icans in Egypt. — The Citadel of Cairo. — A Museum of Antiquities. — Modern Cairo. — The Copts. — The Niiometer. — The Tombs of the Caliphs. — The Ceme- teries of Cairo. — The Mosques. — The Dancing Dervishes. — Ghezireh. — Polyga- my. — The Cairo of To-day, 539 Up the Nile : Embarkation at Ghizeh. — The Pyramids of Saccara. — The Two Deserts. — Siout. — The American Vice-Consul. — Sultan Pacha. — Character of the Nile. — Slave-Boats. — Arab Villagers. — The Birds of the Nile. — The Popu- lation on th Banks. — Domestic Animals. — Personal Arrangements. — A Tip- pling Monkey, 5.59 From Abtdos to Thebes : The Ruins of Abydos. — The Sheik of Bellianeh. — A Misunder^tandii-g. — A Dinner in the Ruins. — A Night in the Temple.— Explor- ing the Ruins.- By whom were they built? — Germs of Religious Ideas. — The Temple of Dendera. — Mr, Seward's Birthday, 568 Thebes a\d its Ruins : What Thebes is now. — A Grand Reception, — A Fed- eral Salute. — Tlie Scenery of the Nile. — The Temple of Luxor. — The Houses of the Consuls. — History of Luxor, — Karnak. — The Hall of the Gods. — King Shishak. — Sphinx Avenues. — Wc dine with the Vicc-Consul. — The Colossi. — The Ancient Tombs,— The Tombs of the Kings. — Animal Worship. — T'le Ra- meseum. — Grandeur of Thebes, 578 Esneii, Edfou, A,«souan, and Piiil^ : The Coptic Convents. — Youssef and his Donkey. — Our Steamer aground. — The Ruins of Fsneh. — The Temple of Edfou. — Assouan. — Its Surprising Activity. — Its African Population. — The Ancient Quarries. — Phila; and the Cataracts of the Nile. — A Monument of the First French Republic, 598 Last Days in Egypt: The Vice-Consul's Ilarem. — Kennch and its Pottery. — The Sugar of Egypt. — Memphis. — Its Ruins. — The Downfall of Idolaters. — Again at Cairo. — Conversation with a Pacha. — Alexandria. — Aspect of the City. — Interview with the Khedive. — Sir Henry Bulwer. — Pompey's Pillar. — The Khedive's Yacht. — Concluding Reflections on Egypt, . . . CIO jERUiiALEsi: A Levantine Coasting-Steamer, — The Green Fields of Sharon. — Jaffa. — i{amleh. — Lydda. — Rural Population. — First View of Jerusalem. — Mr. Sew- ard's Reception. — The Sultan's Firman. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Religious Intolerance. — .Mount Calvary. — The Via Dolorosa. — The Mosque of Omar.— The Mos(iuc El-Aksa, 025 Jeupsalem and its Neiciiboriiood : Bethlehem. — The Grave of Rachel. — The City of Jerusalem. — The Mount of Olives. — The Tomb of Zaehariah. — The Tomb of Ab.sftloni. — An American Jew. — Bethanj'. — Pilate's Palace. — The Greek Church in Palestine. — The Jews of Jerusiilom. — Their Wailing-Place, — The Jcwi.sh .^iibbath, — Attendance "^ the Synasrogue, — Bishop Gobat, — De- [>artiire Irom Jerusalem.— Juflk and Beirut, 045 COXTEXTS. IX Chap. Xi. From Palestine to Greece : Impressions of Palestine. — TIio Egyptian Race. — Egyptian Civilization. — Plmniicia and Palestine. — Tlio Four Religions. — What we owe to the Jews. — Present State of Palestine. — The Island of Cyprus. — The Cesnola Collection. — Smyrna. — An Excursion to Ephesus. — The Seven Sleepers. — Mr. Wood's Researches. — Tln^ Temple of Diana. — The Isles of Greece. — Tinos, — The City of Syra. — A illumiuatiou, . . , GD8 PART VI. EUROPE. I. Athens asd Constantinople: Athens. — The Pira?us. — The Ilymcttus. — The Ilys- sus. — Mr. Tuckerman. — Queen Olga. — Grecian Ruins compared with those of Egypt and Ilindostan. — Modern Greece, the Mexico of Europe. — The Sea of Marmora. — Taking Constantinople by Surprise. — A Coutrc-tcmps. — All's Well that I']nds W^ll. — The Sultan Abdul-Aziz. — A Busy Day. — Excursions. — Charms of Constantinople. — The Old Seraglio. — Fourth of July. — Robert Col- lege. — The Bos^ jrus. — Turkish Women. — The New Palace. — Untimely Visit. — Kiamil Pacha. — Audience with the Sultan. — Departure from Constanti- nople, 071) II. HcNGARV AND AUSTRIA; On the Danube. — Varna. — Rustchuk. — Wallachia. — German Travellers. — What shall wo say of Turkey ? — Redections on the Future of the Turks. — Orsova. — The Iron Gate. — Hungarian Loyalty. — Buda-Pesth. —Contrast of European and Asiatic Civilization. — The People of Pesth. — The Bridge of Buda. — The Buildings of Biida. — The History of Hungary. — The Danube. — Vienna. — John Jay. — Count Von Bcust. — Politics of Austria, 708 III. Italy: Venice. — American Knights Templars. — Florence. — Attractiveness of the City. — Rome. — The Coliseum. — Cardinal Antonelli and the Pope. — Interview with the Pope. — Tiie Italian Minister of Foreign AfTiiirs. — The Schools of Art. — Naples. — Vesuvius, — Early Civilization on the Mediterranean Coast. — Na- ples, the Newport of the Roman Empire. — Genoa. — Susa, — Prospects of Italy, 724 IV. Switzeulano ANr France ; Geneva. — The Alps. — The Tunnel of Mont Cenis.— Passports. — American Fondness for Switzerland. — Berne. — Swiss Statesmen and Politics. — Distress of France. — The Franco-German War. — Lord Lyons. — Mr. Washljurne. — Versailles. — The French Assembly. — President Thiers. — A Dinner with President Thiers. — Condition of France. — M. Drouyn de Lhuys. — M. Laboulaye. — Dr. Evans and the Empress Eugenic. — Aspect of Paris. — Pros- pects of France, 742 V. Germany, England, and Home: Belgium. — Berlin. — ^ir. Bancroft. — Humboldt. — The German Empire. — Its Rise and Grandeur. — Its Policy. — Hamburg. — A Free City. — A Handsome City. — On the Thames, — Activity of its Commerce. — Greatness of Loiulon. — Government Machinery in Great Britain, — Its Slow Working. — Rural Beauty of England, — On Board the Java. — Her Passengers. — Montrose-on-IIudson. — Return to Auburn. — Mr. Seward's Speech to his Neigh- bors, 705 Index, 771) c z M r1 > « I I »1 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait op Mr. Seward (on stonl) Frontispiece Mr. Seward's Garden at Auburn 1 Mr. Seward's Home 5 New Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls . 6 Cheyenne 11 Summit 12 Wahaatch Range 13 Leutze's " Course of Empire." 14 Devil's Gate, Weber Canon 15 Pulpit Rock IG Thousand-Mile Tree 17 Salt Lake Valley 18 Mormon Tabernacle 19 Brigham Young's Residence 21 The Remnant of a Tribe 25 Mouth of Big Cottonwood Cafion 26 San Francisco 28 Cliff House, San Francisco 29 Golden Gate 30 Meeting of the Steamers in Mid-ocean. S.T Fusi Yama, Coast of Japan 36 Yokoliama, Japan 41 Japanese Barbers 42 Japanese Girls 43 Japanese Cemetery 44 A Japanese Garden 46 Tea-house on the Tokaido 48 Group on the Tokaido 49 Temple at Kamakurn 50 Daibutz 51 Japanese Bonzes 52 American Legation at 1 oddo 57 PAtJB Japanese Oificer of State 60 Japanese Interpreter, in Court Dress.. 62 Interior of Sheba 64 Tombs of th'^ Tycoons 66 Nippon-Bas, Yeddo 67 British Legation, Yeddo 68 Hama^oten 70 Japanese Musician 72 A Book-store at Yeddo 75 Daimios' Quarter, Yeddo 78 United States Consulate, Hiogo 87 Temple at Osaka 89 Street in Osaka 91 Entrance to Nagasaki 94 Nagasaki Harbor 95 Temple of Buddha at Nagasaki 96 View of Decima 97 Woosung 106 Mandarin Procession 108 Custom-Houso, Shanghai Ill Mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang 116 Promontory of Shan-Tung 118 Chinese Fi^liing-smack 119 Chinese Dogs 125 Boats on the Pci-ho River 128 Chinese Agriculture 133 Western Gate, Poking 147 Lapis-lazuli Cat 150 Ancient Observatory, or Hall of Science 164 Prince Kung 157 Yang-Fang 162 Wife of Yang- Fang. (From a Photo- graph by himself.) 163 I Long Nails. . Yang-Fang's Sn Chinese Gate-w Temple of Ilea Tablet Hall., The Temple of Gate of the Te king Image of Confuc Chinese Cart. The Litter Summer Palace. Bridge on the G Palace . . Nan-Kow Pass The Great Wall. Gate at Xan-Ko\ Gate-way at Min Avenue to the M Bridge at Xankii er before its ] The Upper Yang Little Orphan Isl Chinese Theatric; Silver Island, on Scene on the Imp Hong-Kong Trading-Junk . . , Street in Canton. Entrance to the 1 Poon-ting-gua's A Opium-Smokers. . Chinese Tombs. . View in Hong-Kc Saigon, at the Moi Native of Saigon Artisan's House a Queen o*" Cambotl Singapore Street in Batavia. Married Woman ( A Javanese Girl. Scene in Java. . . . Government IIous Lily Pond, Palace Tropical Foliage, Javanese Fruit. . Scene in Java. . . The Uogont Praw The Regent of Bt cors LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI PAGE Long Nailg 1 134 Yaug-Fang's Smokiugroom 166 Chinese Gate-way 167 Temple of Ileaveu 170 Tablet Hall 172 The Temple of Confucius 176 Gate of the Temple of Confucius, Pe- king 178 Image of Confucius 179 Chinese Cart 189 The Litter IHO Summer Palace 102 Bridge on the Grounds of the Summer Palace 193 Nan-Kow Pass 196 The Great Wall 199 Gate at Xan-Kow 200 Gate-way at Ming Tombs 206 Avenue to the Ming Tombs 209 Bridge at Nanking, and Porcelain Tow- er before its Destruction 228 The Upper Yang-tsc-kiang 230 Little Orphan Island 231 Chinese Theatricals 238 Silver Island, on the Yang-tsc-kiang . . 243 Scene on the Imperial Canal 248 Hong-Kong 250 Trading-Junk 252 Street in Canton 257 Entrance to the Temple of Ilonan. . . . 261 Poon-ting-gua's Villa 266 Opium-Smokers 268 Chinese Tombs 273 View in Hong-Kong 274 Saigon, at the Mouth 285 Native of Saigon 288 Artisan's House at Saigon 290 Queen o^ Cambodia 291 Singapore 303 Street in Batavia 305 Married Woman of Java 306 A Javanese Girl 308 Scene in Java 310 Government House, Java 312 Lily Pond, Palace Grounds, Java 313 Tropical Foliage, Java 315 Javanese Fruit 316 Scene in Java 317 The Regent Prawiro da Kedya 321 The Regent of Bandong, with hia Ofli- cers 325 A Hostelry in Java 327 Dancing-Costume 330 Dancing-Girl 331 Bath at Sindanlaya 337 Javanese 340 Government House, Madras 855 Madras 364 The Surf at Madras 370 Residence of Richard McAlister, Cal- cutta 380 The Maharajah of Puttecala, Grand Commander of the Star of India. . . 389 Palace of the King of Oude 390 Barrackpore 401 Maharajah of Benares 405 Xautch Girls 407 Benares, from the Ganges 409 Great Buddhist Tower at Samath .... 410 Carving on Buddhist Tower at Sarnath. 41 1 Ghauts at Benares 413 Temples at Benares 410 Queen's College, Benares 417 Residency at Lucknow 419 Exterior of the Fort 422 Inlaid Screen, Tomb of Mina Begum, Agra 423 Scene on the Road to Futtehpore Sikra. 425 Saracenic Gate 420 Pillar in Akbar's Council-Chamber. . . . 428 Panch Mahal ^ 429 Carved Pillars in the Ruins of Futteh- pore Sikra 431 Akbar's Tomb at Secundra 432 Taj-Mahal 435 Cotton-Merchants, Agra 439 The Taj, from the Fountain 440 Delhi 442 The Kootub Minar 445 Elephants on the March at Puttecala. . 467 A Conjurer at Puttecala. 462 Elephants with Howdahs 464 The Prince of Puttecala 467 The Himalayas 476 The Nerbudda 481 Parsee Children 486 Entrance to the Caves of Elcphanta. . . 4(>'> Aden r>12 Ismailia C24 View on the Nile 52tf A Girl of Cairo 588 The Pyramids of Gizeh 540 c Ik o 'I .4 f » I « ' 1 .1 xu LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE The Sphinx , f>42 A Street in Cairo C-18 Street in Cairo C50 Mosque and Houses in Cairo 052 Interior of a Mosque, Cairo 054 Cairo, from tlio East 058 A Woraun on the Nile 066 Our Caravan 069 Temple of Dendera 074 Thebes 0*79 Obelisks at Karnak 081 Columns at Kariiak 084 Gate at Karnak 080 Capitals of Columns at Esueh 597 Youssef and his Donkey 099 I'hila; 606 Phihe 607 Pompey's Pillar 619 Jatta 626 Jerusalem, village of Siloam 631 Pool of Hezekiah 634 Dome of the Church of tlie Holy Sep- ulchre 636 View from the Walls of Jerusalem. ... C41 Mosque of Omar 642 liethlehem 646 Mosque on the Mount of Olives G49 PAGE Jews' Wailing-Place 602 Tower of David, Jerusalem C67 Ancient Syra and Modern Hcrmopolis. 672 A Greek Official 67* A Group of Heads from the Cesnola Collection 675 Athens 678 A Greek Woman 680 Bridge at Eleusis 681 The Temple of Victory, Athens 683 Albanian Co.stume 687 Mosque of St. Sophia, Constantinople. 688 Ancient Pillar at Constantinople 692 Fountain of the Seraglio 693 Seraglio, Constantinople 694 Turkish Wom.an in Street Dress 097 Turkish Girl in a Harem C99 Buda-Pesth 713 Count von Beust 721 Florence 726 The Coliseum, Rome 729 Cardinal Antonelli 731 Genoa 740 Drouyn de Lhuys 759 Hamburg 770 A Map showing Mr. Seward's Koute through Asia, Africa, and Europe. . 778 UNITED aSI c PART I. UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN. < CI a r% \ p 1 Mr. Seward's Comp Niagara. — Cana Detroit. — Chicai Rapids. — Omahi Navigable Hive tains. — Influcnc claturc. — Wcbei rriosthood. — Br sible Conflict ir — Reno. — Railrc Francisco. — Civi Aiihurn, At and an end. T AUBURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. Mr. Seward's Companions. — His Farewell to his Neighbors. — Western Now York. — Niagara. — Canada and its Destiny. — Influence of Immigration. — Africo-Americans. — Detroit. — Chicago. — President Grant. — Mississippi and Missouri Rivors. — Cedar Rapids. — Omaha. — New Classification of States. — Council Bluffs. — Bridges over Navigable Rivers. — Settlement of Western States. — Clieycnne. — The Roclvv Moun- tains. — Influence of Mountain States. — Sherman. — Separation. — Mountain Nomen- clature. — Weber Cauori. — Salt Lalie City. — Tlic Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood. — Brigliam Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepres- sible Conflict in Utah. — The Shoshones. - Destiny of the Indians. — Fiorra Nevada. — Reno. — Railroads Result of Abolition ^f Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San Francisco. — CiviUzatinn of Californi.'".. — Chinese Immigration. 'o M O t" i1 Axiburn, Avgnst 9, 1S70. — Every study must have a beginning and an end. These notes begin at Mr. Seward's embowered home, 4 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. i4:-^t^m whence our journey will begin, and tliey will end here, where, with God's blessing, the journe;y will end. Mr. Seward is accompanied by Olive Eisley Seward, hia adopted daughter, and by her siiier, Miss Kisley. The former, in writing these notes, records his political, social, moral, and philosophical observations and reflections, in his own words. Hanson A. Risley accompanies him only to the Pacific. Mr. Alexander W. llandall and Mrs. Eandall, and Mr. George F. Seward and Mrs. Seward, will join him at San Francisco. A thousand neighbors and friends are gathered around, whose parting words are made more touching by the fears and anxieties which they express concerning Mr. Seward's impaired strength. His resolute nature suggests the encouragement they need : " Travel improves health instead of exhausting it." " The journey, though long, is now made easy by steam on land and sea." " Wlien I come back, remember to meet me at the eastern door of the railway- station, though we part at the western one." Niagara Falls^ August lO^A. — Leaving the pleasant shore of the Owasco Lake, we crossed the Cayuga, passed around the foot of the Seneca, with its beautiful village of Geneva, looked upon the Canandaigua from its encircling hills, and came to a rest at Roch- ester, where the branches of the Central Eailroad unite. Thence, this morning, along the shore of Lake Ontario to Niagar,. The plain of "Western New York, gently descending from the lakes to the Hudson, and, under a traditional policy, well improved with canals and railroads, has, from the earliest period of colonial settlement, been a national thoroughfare. The enlightened political economy, as well as the liberal princi- ples and elevated social sentiments for which the State of IN'ew York is distinguished, is strongly reflected in the constitutions, laws, and manners, of the new Western States. We see, at Niagara, for the first time, the new bridge which has been built just below the great cataract. Like the old one, it is graceful enough ; but, " insatiate " bridge-makers, " could not one suffice?" George P. Marsh is right. Civilizatiun is a constant ■^^ 401 m l^S.Cftt ■«:;«-*: jWT<|W- ^VJ^ J ; JTJ ,,jjiri:'' >-A*»w!-i' ►-^-i*^' ■:^:'«*o%-»- m ,^;: ^'i^'^ ' ;:/-- \'4 ^^ lSiss::#i', 'i-wL'^jiiiweBu/. ^:..aL i^«ii^l I ilNl 'Mk^y ■■Am i^l ■^i*-*a^»*«»c;.i4iss^~' ??K3js;/ mk ;*i!» Ji If t*.W,.;i'l;i! iii9;ti;'f;i^'^:ifl^11i' '111 I* ''!,>!;• rai.:,iiiiiin,ii w X w Q a. < a ' 1 i:{ . 4 r « ■- 1 ' ) 84 6 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. warfare of man against Nature. Katurc, however, was made for man, not man for Nature. Chatham^ Canada, August IQfh,.- Tf -^^.^s ratlier a surprise to meet a United States consul at n when we were less than NBW SUSPENSION BKIDOE, NIAOABA FALLS. twenty-four hours from home. But why do we go through Canada instead of keeping bur own lake-shore ? Because the Canadian route is the more direct one to Detroit. Moreover, have we not come abroad to see foreign countries, rather than our own % Canada, though no less fertile, is more thinly inhabited than the American shore. Immigration obeys political instincts. It prefers the established equality and social security of the United States. It will be long before either Canada or Mexico can realize its invigorating power. This may seem hard, but it is clear that only one great nation can be built on one continent at one time. The remedy for both of those countries is the same — accession to the United States. Canada has hesitated long, but it will see and feel tliis truth at last — that it is better to be an equal constituent member of a great, powerful, and free nation, than a small, feeble, and isolated state, even though equally free. At Chatham, mainly a colored settlement, Mr. Seward has been received wltli r comfurtublc an escape from sL (lerground i-ailv doubtless the Yirginny, to ol tion is the last dred freedmen, and great persv Yache, in ILiyt guished, and the Detroit, Aiu here, has been a Fitch, a client ot was struggling to In the War o surrender and cj Bull Run was th^ M'hieh only the n mount during a i The city grov Chicago, Aw merely of Americ English lady in ]> of our sea-coast t( Though an inlanc sea. Built in a 1; above the flood, neither the hoar cupidity of the o broad and fertile the destiny of Ch We meet here teristic modesty 1 DETROIT— CHICAGO. 7 received with much respect and kindness by the people, who seem conitortiiblo and respectable. They are fu<^'itives who made their escape from slavery in the United States, years ago, on the " un- derground railway." Now that slavery has been abolished there, doubtless the burden of their song is, " Carry me back to olo Yirginny, to olc Virginny shore." The Africo-American popula- tion is the last one that will desire to leave our country. A hun- dred freedmen, about Fortress Monroe, were induced by high offers and great persuasion, during our civil war, to colonize the Isle-a- Vache, in Ilayti. They complained, moaned, sickened, and lan- guished, and the government was obliged to bring them back. Detroit^ August l\th. — The interesting incident of our stop here, has been a visit to Mr. Seward of a daughter of Dr. Abel F. Fitch, a client of his who died of a broken heart, while Mr. Seward Avas struggling to save him from an unjust conviction for conspiracy. In the War of 1812, Detroit was the theatre of a humiliating surrender and capitulation, which were hardly retrieved — just as Bull Run was the scene of a humiliating rout, the evils effects of which only the mighty issues involved enabled the nation to sur- mount during a four-years' conflict. The city grows steadily in opulence and rerinement. Chicago, August lUh. — AVithout a prototype, a marvel not merely of American progress, but of all civilization. We asked an English lady in New York, who had passed two weeks here, which of our sea-coast towns she admired most. She ansAvered, " Chicago." Though an inland, border town, it seems nevertheless a city by the sea. Built in a lagoon like Venice, it has raised itself high and dry above the flood. As mercantile as Amsicdam or Liverpool, it has neither the hoarding avarice of the 0^:10 nor the unscrupulous cupidity of the other. Just now grasping, with an iron arm, the broad and fertile shores o.' the North Pacific, how splendid seems the destiny of Chicago ! We meet here the President of the United States. Ills charac- teristic modesty has until now been a theme of universal praise. c 2, * i o w o •1 :1 8 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. But mankind liiivc always expected demonstration of power, pomp, or 6j)eec'li from their rulers. "\Vill tiiey excuse the want of it even ia (lie great General of the Civil War i Omaha, Auyud \C)t7i. "It's over the river, and over the sea, And it's over the wutcr to Clmrlio." It is over the Mississippi Rivor, and it is over the Missouri River, and over a sea of prairie live hundred mi\\s, from Chicago to Omaha. Seventy years ago, the Mississippi River divided the United States from the dominion of France. Sixty years ago Lewis and Clark found only wild Nature and savage men beyond the Missouri. Fifteen years ago, the States of the Union were politi- cally as well as geographically classified as the Northern States and the Southern States. To-day, it is not a parallel of latitude, but an uncertain and shifting meridional line, that determines their classification. Of the towns which have sprung up on the plains, we notice Cedar Rapids — not for its superiority to others, but as a specimen of an inchoate Western city. During ten minutes' stay there, we saw the suburban cottages, with pointed roofs, of the Norwegian settlers, surrounded by dark-green meadows, covered with flocks of geese and eider-ducks. AVe heard airs from " Trovatore " on a Chickering piano, in a dwelling-house not yet painted or plastered. AVe saw a Mansard mansion of the speculator in city lots, its lawn graced with a bevy of croquet-players. There seem to be all sorts of churches for all sects of Christians — one surmounted with a Catholic cross, and one with dome and minaret borrowed from the Mohanmiedan mosque. There are restless express-agents, nimble telegraph-messengers, noisy baggage-men and porters. Even the "Washington City colored boy is seen there, sauntering lazily through the crowd, and repeating, "Black your boots and shine 'em up ? " watli the poetical variation, " A shine for a dime." Two voung ladv-cousins come into the cars, and soon let us into more secrets of matrimonial engagements and other interesting events which are occi have room to r( Council Bill the Eastern rail the historical ( United States a not Congress it history by trans There is a i Omaha tbr the t bridge, which is by bringing the By-the-way, 1 of railroads is I river navigation and exhaustins: li State, or even tli the throwing of j across a boatable While, howev content to cross t boat, a double-eni and is skilfully st dashing, muddy ^ passengers of sev toward the broad Do you see that two bottles of wh the door, " Last ( body, and everyl Boston, New Yor are going to estab the railroads in ^^ fornia; lithe, acti time dogmatic po! "the stran-er," m COUNCIL BLUFFS. 9 which arc occurring in the "society" of Cedar llapidB than wo have room to rehite. Council Bhiilri, ou the Missouri Iliver, the conncctinC>°, and the barometer we know not how low. Ileavv clouds rest on the earth all around us, and nothing can be seen bevond or over them. *■ « ft ! 1 ; 1 : 1 )\ I lA 12 UXITED STATES, CAXADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. The Territory of Wyoming, of wliieh Cheyenne is the enpital, has a po[)ulatioii outside of the town not exceeding two thousand Cheyenne grew rapidly during the construction of the Pacilic Ilail- I'oad, hut now, suffering a decline, it may number twenty -five hun- dred. It has, however, just been connected by railroad with Denver, and so with St. Louis. The territorial government, there- fore, seems a machine prepared for future rather than immediate use. The army secures the people against intrusion by Indians, and keeps the peace. Governor Campbell, with the Secretary of State and the Surveyor-General, received us at the station, and, apologizing for the straitness of their dwellings, delivered us over to General King and General Bradley, who have cordially conferred upon us the freedom of the mess. "Wliat is to be tlie political influence of these new mining and mountain States ? Their founders arc energetic, enterprising and persevering men. Mountaineers are always frugal and bi'ave, as well as intense lovers of freedom. Their loyalty will never fail, if the Union shall continue to deserve it. SHERMAN. 13 SJierman, August l^th. — Sliernian, ciglit tliousanJ feet above the sea! AVe have made a winding way between the crests of tlie Black Hills, and these are only a lower tier of the snow-elad moun- tains. The pass is treeless, shrubless, ilowerless ; the rocks on the mountain-sides massive, brown, monotonous. What were the llocky Mountains made for? Some of their uses are obvious. A water- shed, they irrigate the continent, while they stinndate human activity by obstructing movement and hiding mineral treasure. I^ow gently descending the western slope live hundred feet, we come upon the great grassy plain of Laranne, on which civilization is making rapid advancement. Five hundred feet lower, through beds of crumbling red sandstone, we land on a broad tloor of cannel- WAHBATCn BANGE. coal. Prudent Nature foresaw the Pacific Railroad and the mining- shaft. Onward forty miles, dov/nward how many feet we do not know, in the Wahsatch Valley, we come to a settlement which bears the ominous name of Separation. It is the parting between the tributaries of the Atlantic and the Pacific Ocean. r. m il t i :1 How odd a mountain scene " Bitter Creek Walisatcli Ran< stand on the ea !{W recognize and li; which, under th( great fresco in t its Way." Hen MOUNTAIN NOMENCLATURE. 16 How odd and yet how significant is the nomendature of the mountain scenery : " Eed Desert," " Table Rock," " Black Butte," "Bitter Creek!" Kow, slowly by winding grades, we climb the Wahsatch Range, only five hundred feet lower than Sherman ; we stand on the eastern rim of the central basin of the continent. AVe .«> ■ Ji't >>vnviiti devil's gate, wbbee caSon. recognize and liail the rugged yellow clifi:' and far-reaching plain, which, under the light of a gorgeous sunset, Lcutze has copied in his great fresco in the Capitol, "Westward the Course of Empire takes its Way." ITencc we hurry rapidly downward toward the reseiwoir f t! ti 16 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. of the basin, tlie br jad, blue Salt Lake. The face of the Walisatch Mountains wears no resemblance to Atlantic scenery. These dis- jointed masses of rocks, fractured and shivered, look as if they had resisted lightning, tempest, ice, and flood, for ages. Sublime devas- tation ! The Weber Iliver, here only a foaming torrent, has worked out for itself an arched passage darker and more majestic than Gothic art ever designed. The mountain-dwellers call it the Devil's Gate. There are miles where a declivity, otherwise mibroken, pre- sents at irregular intervals a high, conical basalt rock, standing like the tower of a castle whose domes and walls have been swept away, and buried in the earth. One of these bears the name of Pulpit FtTLPIT BOOK. Rock, and, though inaccessible, it is believed by the credulous that Brigham Young from its level summit rallied his hosts to repel the army of General Johnson. In the Weber Canon, at the foot of the Wahsatch Range, the torrent subsides into a quiet stream. On its bank is an old and solitary pine-tree, which bears a board on which is inscribed, " One thousand meditate ; and n names. Let no a valley, it is but a table-land from the bosom wild-horses. G^^ Salt Lake Ci Valley Railroad where many oth a special train, v at the station he Wearied anc neat and checrfii lishwoman, the to UP. The town, tl SALT LAKE CITY. 17 " One thousand miles from Omalia." Here all travellers rest and meditate ; and many, jjroud of the great achievement, record their names. Let no one suppose that, because Salt Lake Plain is called a valley, it is therefore level, smooth, or grassy. The plain is but a table-land, broken by mountain-spurs, and hilly ranges rise from the bosom of the lake itself, affording pasturage for herds of wild-horses. THOUBANB-MII-E TREB Salt Lake City, Avgnst 20th.— At Ogden, where the Salt Lake Valley Railroad intersects the continuous Pacific Eailroad, and where many other railroads are soon to meet it, we were taken by a special train, which Brioham Young had sent for us. On arrival at the station here, we were received by General De Trobriand. Wearied and worn with mountain-travel, a hostelry even less neat and cheerful than the Townsend House, managed by an Eng- lishwoman, the second of four wives, would have been acceptable to UP. The town, though so uniclue and isolated, is full of visitors from f 9 i < i 1 N 18 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN. all parts of tlio United States and Europe, animated by a common sentiment, curiosity concerning tlie Mormons— how they came to be here ; how they live and act ; with what v.-oes they threaten the nation and mankind, and by what means, moral, judicial, political, or mihtary, the anomalous sect shall be brought to an end. SALT LAKE VALLEI. "We attended divine service this morning in a small and plain Episcopalian chapel. In the afternoon, we were accompanied to the Tabernacle by Mr. Hooper, Territorial Delegate in Congress. The congregation, composed chiefly of women and children, " with here and there a traveller," must have numbered seven or eight thousand. On the platform wore seated the entire hierarchy, con- sisting of tlie president, the apostles, and the high council, the sev- enties, the high-priests, the elders, the priests, teachers, and deacons. Among these dignitaries we recognized merchants, railroad men, mechanics, and farmers, and it is quite manifest that the priesthood is a shrewd, sagacious body of secular persons. The communion is celebrated every Sunday, every worsliipper participating. The THE MORMONS, THEIR DOCTRINES, ETC. 19 ceremony, thougli attended with less solemnity, is conducted in the same manner as in the more popular Protestant denominations, with the d'ft'erenco that water is used in place of wine, a special prayer being ollered that the substitution may be approved. The lir-^t preacher argued that, according to divine promise, the kingdom of God came upon the earth immediately after the departure of the Saviour ; that this kingdom has a key ; that the Church early lost it, and that the Latter-Day Saints have found it ; that it is nothing less than the true principle of marriage, namely, that marriage is not merely a union for earthly life, but a spiritual bond extending through time and eternity : the Mormons having unlocked the gates with the newly-discovered key, are inviting and expecting all nations to enter and build up the kingdom of God. MOBMOM TADEBNAOLR. During the service thus ftir, Brigham Young sat a silent and meditative observer. He now rose, and a profound stillness came over the congregation. He dwelt briefly on the devotion, zeal, faith, constancy, conflicts, and suff'erings, of the founders of the f 1 M *- » f ) 'I < i ; 1 w n r. rj .» t1 20 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. Mormon Church. From its past triumphs, and its present security, he inferred tlie favor of the Divine Author of the Christian rehgion. Like the previous speaker, he seemed to avoid the subject of po- lygamy, wliilc he claimed for the new churcli a close conformity to the practices of the early Christians, and the enjoyment of new, special, and continuous revelations. No Christian teacher claims for the writings of Isaiah or Jeremiah, or of Matthew, Luke, or John, more divine illumination or infallibility than the speaker demanded for the attested manuscripts of Joseph Smith. After descanting, in a few glowing words, upon the certain acceptance of the new faith immediately, and throughout the whole world, ho warned the saints of the danger of liiUing from the faith, saying, Avith all the vehemence of prophetic denunciation, " Hell awaits the backslider ! " After a kind allusion to Mr. Seward's presence, the sermon ran to incoher- ent and pointless exhortation. The service ended, Brigham Young greeted Mr. Seward, and asked leave to visit him in the evening. The veneration which a Roman Catholic, Episcopalian or Method- ist congregation manifest toward a prelate of their order, at whose hand they have received a sacrament, is indifference itself compared with f 3 awe and reverence paid to the President of the Latter-Day Saints as he retired from the Tabernacle. Brigham Young, accompanied by four sons and three elders, passed the long evening in conversation, religious, political and secular, with Mr. Seward. At the close, with an air as free from embarrassment as the patriarch Jacob might have shown in a like case, he invited Mr. Seward to visit sohio of his houses the next day, and see his family, August 22cl — The President came with carriages, and drove us first to visit his wife Emeline, a matron of fifty, with her ten chil- dren, from the ages of twenty-five downward. Thence to the house of Amelia, who seems thirty-five years. She has been married two or three years, and has no children. She invited the ladies to try her new piano. We then drove to the dAvelling of the first wife. This house, the first which Brigham Young built in the city, shows him to be a skilful mechanic, with a considerable knowledge S, of architecture, Brigliam Youn regard their aged repaired to the " ings, in which th They have diffen or piazzas witli i used as a music-h£ ?5 of the "Bee-hive, comfortable, and or were received here dren, a large propo flaxen hair, strongly educated upon tlie ac we saw were healtk aflfectionate, without free from boldness 3 BRIGIIAM YOUXCrs FAMILY. 21 of architecture. Slie was surrounded by her sons, Tlirani Youn<]f, I3rigluiin Young, Jr., and their several wives, who all seemed to regard their aged mother witli proper filial afleetion. Thence wo repaired to the " Bee-hive," a complex building, or group of build- ings, in which the remaining families of Brigham Young reside. They have different suites of apartments, connected by corridors or piazzas with the garden, a common dining-room, and a saloon used as a music-hall and chapel. The furniture and appointments i«fe -" -■''^r:S:f''^— fl - BBIOHAM TOUNO'S BE3IDBNCB. p., a n ,-* f « « «» : i of the " Bee-hive," like those of the other houses, are frugal but comfortable, and order and cleanliness prevail in them all. Wo were received here by eight wives and their children. The chil- dren, a large proportion of whom are girls, with blue eyes and flaxen hair, strongly resemble their father and each other. x\ll are educated upon the academic standard of *^h.e "Western country. All we saw were healthful, intelligent, spvigi::tij happy and mutually affectionate, without regard to the difference >f mothers ; equally free from boldness and awkwardness. The mothers, women of 3 32 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. sad deportment, nro entirely devoted to their children. All the wives are uneducated, except Amelia, who was before marriage an accomplished school-teacher. If there is any jealousy among them, it escaped our penetration. The mind of the first wife is impaired either by age or by trouble. She spoke severely of Gentile cen se- riousness. We were served at every house with the choicest of native fruits and native wine. Except the coachman, we saw no servants. At the " Bee-hive," each mother sits with her children at table, and the several families are served in the order in which they are arranged. Family worship is conducted night and morning by the patriarch, and attended by the entire household. Brigham Young's manner toward his wives is respectful, and toward his children dignified and affectionate. In presenting them severally as they came in groups, with a kind smile for the particular mother, he spoke in this way : " This is our delicate little Lucy," " This is our musical daughter," " This is our son George, who has a mathe- matical genius," and so on. At the end of the visit here, Brigham Young said to Mr. Seward : " You have seen eleven of the sixteen wives with whom I live, and nearly all of my forty-nine surviving children." " But," said Mr. Seward, " you are represented as saying that you do not know how many wives you have." The President explained that, besides the wives who are married for time, the Mormons believe in sealing other w'ves only for eternity, and, in regard to such women, he may havf; made the remark attributed to him. ' Polygamy, not at first adopted by the Mormons, is an adventi- tious feature of their system. It was authorized by a revelation to Joseph Smith, which was posthumously published. The Church at first desired to suppress it, but it bore the requisite official attes- tation of the prophet, and therefore could not be rejected without shaking the foundation of the whole system. The apologies which they make for it are not altogether destitute of plausibility. It promised to stimulate population when the sect in a Territory, new and isolated, expected no accession by immigration, either foreign or domestic, except of European converts. More women than men came as such c comforts for sup neglect, want, a; compatible with schools, nor witl the people. Tin are the conditio] develop the evils matter of religion the just and nee been one of tlie e ages, in all counti constituting what great study of civ nations, the only i lygamy is antagon the family. "Whei any country, an irj the East the hareij results of not men and the demoraliz This is the conflict is not doubtful, an( Gentile populatioi. resources of the ce: be distant. The Mormons, neons and obnoxic like other religious enee. How long, voke. The field of of search is eterna henceforth comman In the aspect of A population ofnej] years, occupying a POLYGAMY. 23 camo as such converts. Polygamy provided shelter and material comforts for supernutncrary women who might otherwise full into neglect, want, and possible infamy. So far it has not proved in- compatible with the education and training of children in public schools, nor with the maintenance of order and tranquillity among the people. Time enough, however, has not elapsed, perhaps, nor are the conditions of the community sufficiently matured, fully to develop the evils of the institution. Marriage is not exclusively a matter of religious belief. It is a social institution. To ascertain the just and needful relation between the sexes in social life has been one of the experimental studies of mankind, from the earliest ages, in all countries. The marriage of one man with one woman, constituting what we call the family relation, is the result of that great study of civilization. It is universally accepted by Christian nations, the only nations which enjoy a matured civilization. Po- lygamy is antagonistic to, and incompatible with, the existence of the family. When the two institutions are bi jught into contact in any country, an irrepressible conflict ensues. In all the nations of the East the harem has hitherto prevailed in that conflict, with the results of not merely the degradation but the enslaving of woman, and the demoralization and corruption of the entire social body. This is the conflict which is just now beginning in Utah. The end is not doubtful, and, with the rapid increase of what is called the Gentile populatioi. , coming to develop the mineral and agricultural resources of the central regions of the continent, that end cannot be distant. The Mormons, as a religious sect, soon to cast oif the heteroge- neous and obnoxious institution of polygamy, may survive, and, like other religious and ecclesiastical associations, enjoy a long exist- ence. How long, may depend upon the persecution it may pro- voke. The field of purely religious inquiry is infinite, and the spirit of search is eternal. It demands, and will in all civilized states henceforth command, toleration. In the aspect of political economy, Utah is a wonderful success. A population of nearly one hundred thousand, doubling every ton years, occupying a soil naturally destitute of vegetation, has, by iiTi- 2 ' I \\ 24 rXITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. gatiuii and other processes, pi'oduced an abundant granary for sup- plying the wants of immigrants on their way to the new mountain States and Territories on every side. Whatever may be the future of Utah and the Mormon sect, Brigham Young M'ill have an historical character. He was originally an uneducated carpenter, in youth a townsman of Mr. Seward's at Auburn. The latter, while seeing no reason to question Young's sincerity in his eccentric religious faith and practices, deems it unjust to deny him extraordinary ability, energy, and perseverance, as a founder of an American State. His failure, however, in one of his designs, periiaps at the time the most cherished of all, will serve as a warning to future American colo- nizers. Leading his exiled and persecuted band from the banks of the Mississippi across the wilderness, he refused to stop until he had found an asylum outside of the territory and jurisdiction of the United States. Scarcely, hoM'ever, had he discovered this land of refuge in Mexico, before the Government acquired title, and ex- tended its authority over not only that region, but the whole coun- try to the Pacific Ocean. EltihOy August 2^d. — Brigham Young, attended by a group of wives and children, took leave of ]\Ir. Seward at the station in Salt Lake City ; and a conunittee, composed of Mormon elders, camo with us by special train to Ogden. There two palatial cars awaited us, which had been sent across the Sierra Nevada by Mr. Seward's friends at Sacramento. These are furnished with a dining-room, well-supplied pantry, kitchen, and sleeping-apartments. Salt Lake, though fed by saline springs, is the reservoir of many mountain-streams, the Weber River, Bear lliver. Blue Creek, and others. Its waters are shallow and unwholesome ; but we saw cattle feeding near it, and land-birds flying over it. Its beach is always thickly incrusted with salt, produced by solar evaporation. Large timber grows in the mountaln-caiions, and the soil, wherever irrigated, is i)rolific of cereals, grasses, and fruits. The peach, plum, and gra])o, arc unsurpassed, even in California. Our last Bunset view of the lake, taken a hundred miles west of Ogden, was one which we are not likely to forget. The great orb, suspended over tlie water< was clothed in broad and grace Here, at Elc] Shoshones, once Must these Ind white man ? It version to the us to that end, from =r^^^?^ )t f^iiled. The expei no more proinisinir ill numbers, has nr zation. Exalted to of Mexico may besa twecn tiio pnre Indi liave practically cea tlivided by castes, of DESTIXY OF THE IXDIAXS. 25 over the waters, kindled tliem to a dazzling blaze, while the sky was clothed in a drapery of purple and gold, which extended in broad and graceful festoons across the entire horizon. Here, at Eleho, we find a wretched and S(pialid remnant of the Shoshones, once the proprietors of the region we are surveying. Must these Indian races indeed perish before the march of the white man ? It would seem so ; they could only be saved by con- version to the usages and habits of civilization, but all past efforts to that end, from the Atlantic to the centre of the continent, have t1 •c '. '.1 * < V I THE r.EMNANT OF A TRinR. failed. The experiments of the same sort on the Pacific coast are no more promising. The Aztec race, though it has not increased in numbers, has not diminished under Spanish conquest and coloni- zation. Exalted to citizenship, suffrage, and education, the Indians of Mexico may bo saved ; but it is noticeable that intermarriages be- tween the pure Indians and the Creoles and European immigrants have practically ceased, and that Mexico exhibits therefore a nation divided bv castes, of which the native one is the most numerous, 1 26 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. while tlio foreign one is the most wealthy and intelligent. One cannot but hope that the Aztecs of Mexico may prove an exception to the elsewhere universal process of extermination. Jleno. — On leaving Elcho, we followed a mountain-pass which is barricaded with basalt columns, more picturesque than the ad- mired Palisades of the Hudson, and this pass brought us out on the bank of the Humboldt Eiver. We have followed its wild and ^^Sff^^^^^^^^^^^^^P^^^^-' MOUTn OP BIO COTTONWOOD OASON. winding way as it flows over an alkaline bed, destitute of vegeta- tion, two hundred and fifty miles, until it spreads its waters over a broad and sterile plain and sinks into the earth. From this ])lain wo began the eastern ascent of the Sierra Nevada. The jMusonous mineral dust, raised by the whirlwind, was excoriating as wo passed over this desert of the desert, seeing neither tree nor stream after leaving the lost river. SACRAMENTO. 2T Wg declined here a pressing invitation to diverge and visit "Virginia City, as we had declined at Salt Lake, Ogden, Cheyenne, and Omaha, to diverge to other points of mining and political in- terest. The frequency of these invitations is strongly suggestive of the rapidity vrith which branch railroads and common roads are entwining the giant limbs of the new members of the republic, "What is the secret of this sudden and prodigious increase of national energy in the prosecution of internal improvements ? It is one of the first fruits of the abolition of slavery. Conservatism of the constitutional compromises in the interest of slavery, of course in :>ractlce, became conservatism of slavery itself, and this principle, developed in 1800, and gaining strength during fifty years, has been effectually obstructive of material improvement and national progress. Sacramento, August '^^dh. — The desert is passed at Eeno. The mountain scenery becomes fresh and cheerful with plentiful ever- green forests, and, where they have been removed, rich meadows. Mr. Stanford, Mr. Crocker, and Mr. Mills, met us on the way, and accompanied us down the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, a long journey, though the distance is short. The highest en- gineering skill Liust have been employed in effecting this passage through mountains so nigged, steep and wild. This morning the engineer whiptled " Down brakes ! " to avoid collision with a train which seemed to be coming from the opposite direction, but which proved to be the end of our own train. We left massive brown mountains, deep-blue lakes, and canons clothed in evergreen, and entered a broad plain, lightly shaded with groups of laurel and live- oak. Newly-harvested wheat-fields, and fields yet covered with native oats, are boundless. Although the engineer had brought us here in advance of tlie appointed hour, Mr. Seward was neverthe- less greeted with a salvo, and it was not without difficulty that wo made our Avay through the friendly mass who were gathered to welcome him. A drive through city and suburbs, and over the race-course, a dinner at Mr. Stanford's, and an evening reception at Mr. Crocker's, t\ t tt I » < I 1 i ^ 5^ 28 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND TACIFIC OCEAN. closed the day, giving iis a pleasing acquaintance with tlic refined and spirited society of the capital of California. San FrancisGO, Septemher 1st. — Mr. Seward, desirous to avoid an appearance of seeking a renewal of the hospitalities extended to liiin here last year, on his tour to Alaska and Mexico, effected a quiet entrance into the town, and we have been the guests, since General Scofi( department, a conimandiniT t ously. These Mcek, closed la What eapr "W'^rested from 1 to cnlai-go the in large tracts, of the disposs ■= tS=?W«c»^^»'7 . -■*--■ .vi; — =* '■•i '-•- — ■- our arrival, of his old friend and travelling-companion, Mr. Hastings?, "\Ye have visited the Cliff House ; and made for all, but Mr. Seward, a first acquaintance with the Scal-Eocks, their am]>liibious inhabi- tants, and the Pacific Ocean. '\Ve could not describe, if we should attempt, the bewildering land excursion ot two days, and the magnificent entertainment at Belmont, which Mr. Ralston gave lis, or our beautiful steam-yacht excursion around the harbor and bay. schools been est the hold of Spa seized the cntin rapid colonizatio exceptions, ncitl priests to toacli, were founded cl CIVILIZATION OF CALIFORNIA. 29 General Scofield, late Secretary of "War, now at tlio head of tins department, and Admiral Winslow, the hero of the Ivearsargc, commanding the Pacific squadron here, have entertained us gener- ously. These arid other hospitalities, all crowded into one short week, closed last night with a ball at the house of Mr. Avery. What caprices have marked the civilization of California ! AVrested from the native Indians, one hundred and fifty years ago, to enlarge the dominion of Spain ; parcelled fifty years afterward, in large tracts, among bookish priests devoted to the conversion of the dispossessed proprietors — hardly had the cathedrals and I CLIFF IIOlrSE, SAN FUANrlSCO. schools been established, when revolution tore the territory from the hold of Spain, and the Eepublic of Mexico confiscated and seized the entire domain. Then came purchase, conquest, and rapid colonization, by the United States. The>^e have left, with few exceptions, neither ^Mexican proprietors to occupy, nor Spanish priests to teach, n(n* Indians to be taught. The Catholic churches were founded chiefly in 1T7G- 78. How little did their builders 11 I' 1 I ! } h -SO UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. |j> understand the mighty revolution that had just then broken out on the other side of the continent — a revolution that was destined to modify not only the civil but also the ecclesiastical systems of the earth ! San Francisco, though only twenty years old, already assumes the aspect, tone, and manners of an inter-continental emporium, a counterpart to the Atlantic metropohs. The absorbing topic here is, Chinese immigration. Mr. Seward has declined an invitation given him by the anti-Chinese party to explore the Chinese quarter, and see how unfit its hihabitants are to become citizens of the United States ; and also a like invitation from the Chinese settlers to make the same exploration, to see how harmless and profitable that colonization is. The Eepublican party have lately acquiesced in the policy of exclusion, which has been insisted upon so long and go strenuously by the Democratic party. Mr. Seward protests firmly pf^ainst this, and teaches tliat immigra- tion and expansion are the n .m and inseparable elements of civili- zation on the American Continent, and nowhere more needful or beneficent than on the Pacific coast. He says confidently, to both parties, that all attempts will fail to suppress or stifle either of those invigorating forces. COLOKN OATX. The Vessels of the of the Preaehe The Moods of cutiis.— The Be 8teamer Ch having receive( More kind frien we had been loi been thirty yea taxed his streng We passed t Gate, with scar our voyage on a Septemler U wheel steamers, passed only by 1 Island Sound. den, is the smr promenade sevei have sixty cabi] that number. Minister rctumi dozen English ci Japan and Chin pany of the prea CHAPTEK II. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO JAPAN. The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. — Our Fellow-Passergers. — " The Great Company of the Preachers." — The Chinese Passengers. — The Great Event of the Voyage. — The Moods of the Sea. — A Still Greater Event. — The Loss of a Day. — The Gyas- cutus. — The Beginning of the End. — The Coast of Japan. — The Ocean-Fisheries. Steamer China, Pacific Ocean, Sejytemher 1, 1870. — Our party having received its promised accessions, we embarked at noon. More kind friends could not have come on board to take leave if we had been long residents of San Francisco. If Mr. Seward had been thirty years younger, such a parting would even then have taxed his strength. We passed the sometimes turbulent, but always majestic Golden Gate, with scarcely a disturbance of the ship's balance, and began our voyage on a calm sea and under a bright sky. Septemljer Uh. — The vessels of the Pacific Mail Line are side- wheel steamers, and in accommodations and appointments are sur- passed only by the palatial boats on the Hudson River and Long Island Sound. The China, four thousand three hundred tons bur- den, is the smallest of them all. "VVe enjoy an uninterrupted promenade seven hundred feet in circuit on the upper deck. We have sixty cabin-passengers, and might carry comfortably twice that number. Among them are General Ylangally, the Russian Minister returning from St. Petersburg to Peking, and half a dozen English civil officers coming from "home" to their posts in Japan and China. " Great," it must be confessed, " is the com- pany of the preachers :" Fifteen American missionaries with tlieii -:- H » 1 4 I' « ( « • I s J M UxXITED STATES, CANADA, AND TACIFIC OCEAN. wives and children ! — tlie elder families rctnrning, and the younger goini^ for the lirst time to fields of labor in Japan, China, Siam, and India ; United States naval officers, on their way to join the Asiatic scjuadron, four English and as many American youths just cmer"-ed from college on an Eastern- tour ; a United States Treas- ury agent, going to inspect the Oriental consulates ; and one Amer- ican office-seeker, at least, proceeding to lay his claims before the Emperor of China at Peking. The gentlemen amuse themselves with gymnastic games, the ladies with music and books. An ex- pert Japanese juggler entertains us in the cabin. In the steerage, are five hundred Chinese returning home. They pay less than half price, and are fed with the simple fare of their country. Knowing no use of beds, they sleep on the floor. In the middle of their cabin they have made, with canvas, a dark room for opium-smoking. AVhen on deck, they appear neatly clad, and amuse themselves with unintelligible and apparently interminable games of chance. The annual immigration of Chinese to the United States is twelve thou- sand. They arc invariably successful. Half the number go l)ack to China, either on visits or to remain. Our freights consist of Mexican silver dollars, manufactured goods, agricultural machines, carriages, furniture, flour, butter, fruits, drugs, and patent medicines. These go in exchange for teas, silks, rice, and Chinese emigrants. Sej)temler 6th. — The great event of the voyage occurred this morning. All were on deck, in a state of pleasant excitement. At seven o'clock, precisely the hoi r which the captain had fore- told, the ship America, eighteen days from Yokohama, appeared in a direct line before us, under full pressure, and with square sails set. Signals were promptly exchanged, and, to avoid colli- sion, each ship turned slightly from its course and stopped. The America has eighty cabin-passengers and four hundred Chintse. The cabin-passengers on either vessel cheered loudly, the Chinese looking on silent and thoughiful. A M'ell-manned gig, with an officer in the stern, came bounding over the waves, and deliv- ered to us Chinese and Japanese (Europerin) newspapers, with a bag of letters from her passengers. AVe, in return sent on board the latest A letters to ou hoisted to it gracefully bo^ passengers rep nounced that course, and in I the waving of I America.* If we gavel European Avar,! change gave uf pean powers d recent dreadful that Mr. Sewa says that Fran) war against CI nation will. * The telcgrapli of yokohama, Augij THE GREAT EVENT OF THE VOYAGE. 33 the latest American newspapers, and a mail well charged with letters to our friends at home. The America's boat was then hoisted to its davits, the walking-beams of the two giant ships MEETI'*'^ OF THE STEAMERS IN MID-OrEAN. graceftdly bowed to each other, the wheels gently revolved, the passengers repeated their cheers, and a gnn from either deck an- nounced that the meeting was over. Each vessel resumed its course, and in a few moments not even a spy- glass could discover the waving of handkerchiefs or other signal on the deck of the America.* If we gave to the eastern-bound travellers the first news of the European war, and of the death of Admiral Farragut, they in ex- change gave us intelligence of an expected war between the Euro- pean powers and the Chinese Government, in consequence of the recent dreadful massacre at Tien-Tsin. Every one is astonished that Mr. Seward persists in his purpose of visiting Peking. lie says that France, in her present disabled condition, cannot make war against China, and, without the lead of Franco, no Western nation will. * The telegraph f om Shanghai reports that the America was burned in the haibot of yoliohama, Augv.st 26, 1872. ri ■I (J hi 34 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. Septemler \UK. — Those who would know the sea, have need to study its varying moods and aspects. They must see it in the later hours of cloudless night, when it reflects the bright stars and con- stellations; they must see it in the morning twilight, when its broad surface seems contracted to a small, dark lake, and then un- der the illumination of the dawn it resumes its illimitable expanse. Doubtless it is terrible in its more serious moods by reason of its vastness, darkness, and powerful agitation, all elements of the sub- lime. Happily for us, we have not yet witnessed those moods. September IQth. — It was a mistake to pronounce our meeting with the America, on the 6th, the event of the voyage. A greater one has just occurred. Our last date is the 14th. This note is written on the 16th. The former entry certainly was made yesterday. The chronometer marked eight o'clock at night at Greenwich, at the very hour when our clock, which keeps the running time, marked eight o'clock in the morning. "\Ye are half-way around the world from Greenwich, and have lost just half a day. It is quite clear that, if we should continue onward making the same discrepancy of time, we should have lost a whole day on arriving at Greenwich. We might postpone the readjust- ment of our ship's time until we reached Greenwich, but the scientific world has wisely decided that this readjustment shall be m.^de in every case by compromise on the ISOtli meridian, and therefore, instead of striking out a half-day here, we strike out a whole one. If the absolute loss of one whole day out of our lives is a dis- tressing thing to think of, we may console ourselves with Ked Jacket's profound reflection. When a missionary had delivered be- fore the Seneca nation, in council, a homily in the usual style on the shortness of life, and the necessity of improving its fleeting hours, he called on them for an expression of their sentiments on that important subject ; Red Jacket, having duly consulted with the chiefs, head men, women, and warriors, responded in their be- half: "Red men have all the time there is going; they do not see that white men have any more." THE COAST OF JAPAN. 86 Septemher 20(h. — Four thousand miles from San Francisco. The sea lias come down from the long, surghig swell of a few days past, and is now smooth and glassy. We have entered the outer belt of the hot circular current which warms the coasts of Japan, Siberia, and Alaska. A brig under full sail is seen, though at a great distance, mov- ing eastward. Everybody tries the spy-glass to make her out. When all have failed, a passenger, noted for controversialism, pro- nounces that the brig is the Gyascutus, from Macao, bound for Valparaiso, freighted with coolies. "VVe all start at once, and ask, " How do you know ? " "I assert it to be the fact," he replies ; "let liim prove the contrary who can. If this is not sufficient proof, it is at least the same form of argument that our preacher used in his sermon last night." September 23d. — The beginning of the end ! Every inch of the deck, bulwarks, stanchions, rigging, and boats, has been scoured, tarred, or painted, and the whole ship is clean as a Shaker meeting- house. Our five hundred steerage-passengers are confined within a rope-enclosure on the forward -deck — they appearing in new and shining cotton clothes, with pates freshly shaven. A dozen women are seen for 1,he first time. All are engaged, especially the women, in dropping handfuls of rice and small pieces of colored paper into the sea, to propitiate the gods for a safe arrival. Flying-fish sur- round us ; one white-breasted guil has come to attend us into port ; and a whale, the only one we have seen on the voyage, is spoi;<^ing in the distance. Sejytemler 24:th. — The coast of Japan rises in a long, gray outline over the dark sea, but Fusi Yama veils his head, and refuses to take notice of our coming. "We have crossed the Pacific Ocean. How much it is to be re- gretted that we must make such long stretches, and yet see so little ! IIow profitable it would be to study the North-Pacific American coast, the shores of Pugct Sound, the Territories on the Columbia River, and Alaska, i.n a near future the great fishery, forest, and «•' IS' «: '■• 1 1 t ( •1 i » J 1 h 1 { ) t \ r 1 i 4 I 86 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. mineral storeliouses of the world ! — the Aleutian chain of islands hereafter to bo the stepping-stones between the two continents. AVe have lost a sight, also, not only of the Sandwich Islands, but of Australia, a Hftli continent on which a kindred people arc dcvel- rUSI YAMA, COAST OF JAPAN. oping a state that may at some future day challenge comparison with our own republic. The Northern fisheries known in commerce are chiefly above the 34:th parallel. The United States and Russia own more than half of the coast on both sides of the Pacific, north of that parallel. Mr. Seward left, as a legacy in the State Department, an inchoate negotiation of a treaty for reciprocity in those fisheries. Its im- portance may be estimated by recalling the controversies and con- flicts between the United States and Great Britain, during the last hundred years, which have arisen out of the fisheries on the Atlan- tic coast. PART II. JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, % K in ri * 1 •J »■■.., a 4 f -3 I « ■ i The Bay of Yokohar bers.—The Toku Monasteries. — Ka Yokohama, ^ moonless darknes name of his ship iiiu'hor before mi lights of our first around and aroui uncounted sjm])li f^lii]) scarcely mov I»i'cume the longes ••iiid more tediousl last ^VQ gave it uji fl'ip's gun, and tl !»!•( Might an e.\])laii, did not announce 1 lialf-past two. 'I'lie hay of Yo ■•s beautiful, as tlui K''iU'efully from the ^ 'tnia's sacred bro\ '''I't' hills and vallo ^I'l.v ; the harbor is CIIAPTEE I. YOKOHAMA AND ITS VICINITY. The Bay of Yokolmnia. — Natives and Foreigners. — Native Costumes. — Japanese Bar- bers. — The Tokaido. — Japanese Cemeteries, Gardens, and Temples. — Monks and Monasteries. — Kaniakura. — The Great Statue of Buddha. — The Daibatz. YoTiohama, Scptemher 2i)th. — Night clo-ed with more than moonless darkness. With a true seaman's solicitude for the good name of his ship, Captain Freeman still promised that we should anchor before midnight. AVho could think of sleeping when the lights of our first Asiatic port were so near? We walked the deck around and around, from stem to stern ; we tried whist, we drew uncounted symphonies from the piano — but no consolation. The ship scarcely moved, and the equinoctial 24th day of September became the longest of all the days in the year. Time lagged more and more tediously between the hours of eleven and twelve. At last we gave it up, and went to rest. AVe were wakened by the ship's gun, and the slow dropping of the anchor. The morning brought an e.vplanation. The ship's clock had be«m retarded, and (lid not announce the hour of twelve until the chronometer marked half-past two. The bay of Yokohama is as spacious, and its surroundings are fiS beautifid, as those of Hampton Roads. The landscape recedes fjracefully from the shore, and high above the beautiful scene Fusi Yama's sacred brow reliects the gh)wing smile of the morning sun. The hills and valleys wear all the freshness of spring. It is Sun- day ; the harbor is gay with the flags of many nations on men-of- 1 I » 1 » 1 40 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. war and mercliant-ships, and is made more animated by the quaint Japanese craft and their shouting, grotesque, native managers. Yokohama, Sejytemher 2C)th. — The United States minister, Mr. Dc Long, Captain McCrea, of the Asiatic squadron, Mr. Shepard the consul at Yeddo, Mr. Walsh, and other American citizens, came on board, and after kind expressions of welcome and congratulation conducted us to Mr. Walsh's residence. Captain McCrea received Mr. Seward and his friends with na- tional honors on board the United States steamship-of-war Monocacy. Accustomed at home to the intermingling of all classes, condi- tions, and races, in subjection to one system of laws and tribunals, with common standards of morals and manners, we are as yet un- prepared for the different constitution of society we find here : instead of one community, two, standing side by side, each inde- pendent of the other — the one native, the other foreign. The native population of Japan is forty millions, all of the Mongo- lian type ; * the so-called European population, five thousand, tempo- rarily residing here from various nations, including the United States. These foreigners are gathered upon tracts of land, one, three or six miles square, called concessions, adjacent to native cities in the chief ports of this maritime empire. These foreign settlements are cor- porations, regulated and protected by the several foreign nations, and are copied in all respects from Western models, while the unpavod native cities, built of firs and cedars, thatched with bamboo and cane, are as perfectly Japanese as if a European had never touched the coast. It may be conceived that it is difiicult for the transient traveller, who always sojourns among his countrymen, and speaks with the natives only through an interpreter, to study Japan or its people. The Japanese, however they may have been heretofore, are not now jealous or suspicious. They labor cheerfully on the wharves, serve faitlifully in foreign familres within the concessions, and manufac- ture, in their own districts, articles of furniture and fancy goods for foreign markets. They are polite, sagacious, and skilful traders. • Tlie Prime-Minister informs Mr. Sewmd that tlio census recently tiilteu gave thirty- five (35) milliuus, but that it was orrunuuud. lie et^timutes the population at titty iiiillionx. Ifllij'ilMllllilllllllllBllll, ||||,'',ii ,,i,:.|| llij ! I'll Iff ■ill !i k ' U'l ■^',11'] IJ, ,|!'.i Mi '4'/ ■ :P'i|ii'( '■ ' i» '■ I'^'l^l iiti L 'ihj wiW_^ e. rve ilC- iirtv- iions. a. r1 t ] r 1} «'.; 42 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. September %1th. — The representations of native costumes on the Japanese porcelain and lacquer-work, which are found on our tables and in our parlors at home, are not less accurate than spirited. The coarse, black hair is a chief object of pride and care. The JAPANEHE BAIIUEIW. barber with his scissors, combs, razors, and pomatum, is seen at all hours of the day in the most public places. The women brush the hair away from I a small smooth j pins. The hair enough at the si in a graceless an ing. The barbei care is taken to use, instead of a ] neck. The pom; which, growing i fringe for the brc perors, for sumpl in the fields. T their dwellings. Here, as in j quires that the mf guisliing badges, white teeth, and \\ modest costume, immediately shave ments are remove( JAPANESE HAIRDRESSING. 43 hair away from the temples a la Pompadour, and gather it up under a small smooth puiF at the back of the head with gilt and vermilion pins. The hair of the men is shorn entirely oft' the crown, leaving enough at the sides and back to be drawn upward and fastened in a graceless and meaningless knot. The efiect is simply shock- ing. The barber-work being performed only three times a week, care is taken to prevent disarrangement in the intervals. They use, instead of a pillow, a wooden block adjusted to the shape of the neck. The pomatum so lavishly applied is extracted from an herb, which, growing in the eaves of the houses, makes a pretty green fringe for the brown thatched roofs, xliey say that one of the em- perors, for sumptuary reasons, forbade the cultivation of this plant in the fields. Thus the people, while evading the law, beautify their dwellings. Here, as in Alaska and in ancient Mexico, civil economy re- 1,1,11 1, * X 'J JAPANESE GIRLS. quires that the married and unmarried women shall M-ear distin- guishing badges. The girl, with full !iair tastefully arranged, with wliite teeth, and with the free use of cosmetics, and a scrupulously modest costume, is attra.tive; when married, her eyebrows are immediately shaven oft', her teeth are stained jet-black, the orna- ments are removed from her hair, and she becomes repulsive. 44 JAPAN, CHINA, ANi- COCHIN CHINA. "Wherever a city of the living is, there is also a greater city of the dead. The Japanese bury on the hill-sides. Though cremation JAPAKGSK CEMETBST. is sometimes practised, the body is more generally interred in a sitting posture, cramped within a plain, white, scpiare box, borne to the grave on men's shoulders. All who attend, wear white mourn- ing-badges. "Women do not appear in the processions. Burial is without pomp and pageantry. A black or gray stone obelisk is raised over the gi'avc. All the cemeteries are crowded, but doubtless this is due to the economy of land required by so dense a population. They are, however, always shaded and green. Septemher 2 the bay of Yed the high-road w the town. A c: at our landing, is monotonous, huddled togethe to Yeddo in pre company, using way, the projeel under an appreh will base extorti suffer. Ascending a enjoyed our first forward we had across the plains road-making, but hill-tops are cov( mingled with th At their bases ai sides being high the woods in the The althea, t the passion-flowe: quire so much ca luxuriant here. gle ; every hill if of land covered b there are small j barley, bugar, bee other vegetables, is bestowed on o accidental waste c bent down by the rice, each particu' LAND WELL CULTIVATED. 45 September 'i%ih. — We made an excursion, by boat, to-day, on the bay of Yeddo, to Kanagawa, and its precincts. The Tokaido, the high-road which traverses the island of Niphon, passes through the town. A crowd of both sexes and all ages gathered and stared at our landing. The architecture of Japanese towns and villages is monotonous. The buildings, public and private, are small and huddled together. It was a pleasing surprise to find the railroad to Yeddo in process of construction. It is imdertalcen by a native company, using only Japanese capital, credit, and labor. By-the- way, the projectors are becoming timid in prosecuting the work, under an apprehension that, when it shall be completed, foreigners will base extortionate claims on any accidental injuries they may suffer. Ascending a high hill, just beyond the town of Kanagawa, we enjoyed our first interior view of Japanese rural scenery. Thence- forward we had a path only five or six feet wide, which winds across the plains and around the hill-sides, not on any principle of road-making, but simply for the convenient use of the soil. The hill-tops are covered with majestic cypresses and yew-trees, inter- mingled with the chestnut, holly, pine, persimmon, and camphor. At their bases are thick groves of the slender bamboo, which, be- sides being highly ornamental, is the most variously useful of all the woods in the East. The althea, the lily, the japonica, the arbor-vitae, the wisteria, the passion-flower, and many other shrubs and creepers, which re- quire so much care and labor in our gardens and greenhouses, are luxuriant here. There is no waste, either by rock, marsh, or jun- gle ; every hill is terraced, every acre irrigated, every square foot of land covered by some tree, cereal, or esculent. Instead of farms, there are small plots, and each is tilled with cotton, flax, wheat, barley, bugar, beets, peppers, sweet-potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and other vegetables, by a single family, with care equal to that which is bestowed on our flower-beds. No allowance is made for even accidental waste of the crop. The individual wheat-stalk which is bent down by the storm is restored and supported. Each head of rice, each particular boll of cotton, is kept in its place until care- X\ f' -^ \ V • i * f nJ A JAPANESE GARDEN. fully removed 1 time in gatheri: ripens, it is har' Despotism, thou empire obliges ( the midst of tlili of two hundred j monastery, surrc designed. We c flights of steps, ea tracted one abore generally used in The temple h unique and grace elaborately, thoug conducted us thn ness, requiring ui ligious observance, priests are vowed sure and habit th spotless white rain tery is divided int but all these were two inches thick, i; board." There is our collation in o; smoking in the ne> bringing his pipe to the floor by way inferred that some ( ties of the house, corridor on every «.iis, in the centre either side. Over on his right, the n lawgiver. No spac MONKS AND MONASTERIES. 47 fully removed by the husbandman's hand. There is no loss of time in gathering the crops into garners ; as tast as the product ripens, it is harvested and immediately prepared for the market. Despotism, though often cruel, is not always blind. A law of tl^e empire obliges every one who fells a tree to plant another. Iv; the midst of this rich and beautiful landscape, within an enclosure of two hundred acres, stands a Buddhist temple, with an adjoining monastery, surrounded by groves such as Downing might have designed. We came upon the base of the temple by successive flights of stepp, each reaching from a platform below to a more con- tracted one aboee. The edifices are constructed of wood, which is generally used in Japan, for greater security against earthquakes. The temple has an overhanging roof and portico, which are unique and graceful. The columns, architraves and cornices are elaborately, though grotesquely carved. The bonzes received and conducted us through the sacred edifices with ceremonious polite- ness, requiring us to leave our boots at the door, not as a re- ligious observance, but as a regulation of domestic economy. These priests are vowed to celibacy and temperance, and in their ton- sure and habit they resemble Carmelite friars, except that their spotless white raiment is not of wool, but of soft silk. The monas- tery is divided into numerous apartments by sliding paper doors, but all these were thrown open to us. A fine, clean bamboo mat, two inches thick, is spread on every floor, and serves for " bed and board." There is no other furniture. While we were enjoying our collation in one apartment, the bonzes were taking tea and smoking in the next one. Each bonze, before lifting his teacup or bringing his pipe to his lips, brought his head half a dozen times to the floor by way of compliment to his several companions. We inferred that some of the party were pilgrims, enjoying the hospitali- ties of the house. The temple is a square enclosure, with an open corridor on every side. Nearly the whole floor is covered with a dais, in the centre of which is a largo altar, with a smaller one on either side. Over each a carved image — the middle one. Buddha ; on his right, the mythological mikado, on the left an apostle or lawgiver. No space is allowed for worshippers. They prostrate 'A 48 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. themselves at the porch, and are content with throwing small coins into the treasury just within the door. A cemetery near the tem- ple is crowded with monuments of pilgrim princes and saints. Take away from this temple its pagan devices and emblems, and the whole place would seem to be pervaded with the very spirit of religious devotion. It combines seclusion, repose, and silence with solemnity. The good monks dismissed us with many blessings, after having obtained Mr. Seward's leave to visit him at Yokohama. On our return, we found the bay highly agitated. Discarding the life-boats of the Monocacy, we crossed in a native craft, rowed by a vigilant and active though excited and vehement crew. years old. Thi to the circumstf pedestrians, wit used horses, anc jn I Sejjtemher SOth. — A second excursion, this time overland to Kanagawa, southward on the Tokaido. A hundred years ago, no part of the United States, perhaps few countries in Europe, afforded a road equal to this in firmness and smoothness. At intervals, hot TEA-nOU8E ON TUB TOKAIDO. tea in tiny cups, with cakes and sugar-plums, was brought out to us by pretty girls, aitlstes in dance and song. The beverage might not be declined, though we were not allowed to pay for it. In many places we found circular benches arranged under trees five hundred The Japanese clustering houses, on either side, m district begins or e GROUP ON THE TOKAIDO. 41) years old. This frequent provision for rest and refreshment is due to tlie circumstance that travel in Japan is principally performed by pedestrians, with the occasional use of chairs. Daimios have always used horses, and recently foreigners have introduced vehicles. OBOUP ON TUB TOKAWO. The Japanese are a busy as well as a frugal people. Thickly- clustering houses, booths, and work- shops nearly close the road on either side, making it difficult to distinguish where a rural district begins or ends. Occasionally a vacant space opens a beau- ri-- r \ ii 60 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. tifiil vista. At the end of twenty miles we sent our carriages back to Yokohama, and proceeded in cliairs hy a narrow path over a loftv hill, and then came down on the ocean-beach. The feet of our coolie bearers sank deep in the sand, but we enjoyed the re- freshing spray which dashed in our faces. Then leaving the shore, i;nd following a rugged mountain-path, we came upon a high plain, where once stood the renowned ecclesiastical capital, Kamakura. Practically speaking, Japan has no ruins. An extensive and liand- TEUPLE AT KAHAKUBA. some temple, which still maintains its prestige, is the only monu- ment of the ancient city. A few miles beyond this temple, we left our cliairs, and, diverging from the road, we confronted a high wooden arch, fantastically painted with bright green, blue and yel- low colors. On either side of the arch is a carved bronze demon, fifteen feet high, protected by an iron railing. These figures, de- signed to be terrific, are simply hideous. They are plastered over with moistened paper pellets, which have been cast on them by pass- ing pilgrims. The adhesion of the pellet is taken as an assurance THE GREAT STATUE OF BUDDHA. 61 that the monster is appeased, and consents to the visit of a votary. Trusting tliat the missiles wliicli our bearers had thrown upon the demons had propitiated them in our favor, we boldly en- tered the gate. Ascending a solid flight of steps, we reached a paved court, three sides of which are graced with monumental shrines of stone and bronze. On a pedestal six feet high, in the centre of the square, is the gigantic statue of Buddha (famous as the Daibutz), sitting with crossed legs, on a lotus-flower. Though description by measurement is not poetical, we must use it to con- vey an idea of this colossal idol. It is flfty feet high, a hundred DAIBUTZ. feet in circumference at the base, and the head is nine feet long j the hands are brought together in front, with thumbs joined ; the head is covered with metallic snails, Avhich are supposed to protect the god from the sun. Some travellers find in the tace an expres- s3 f ■ \ ( ) 1 * 52 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. sion of sublime contemplation ; to us it seems dull and meaning- less. The statue being nuide of bronze plates, is hollow; the interior is shaped an'.! titted as a temple. We are iiiclined to be- lieve that the Japanese have lost their early reverence for the Daibutz ; we tind the walls covered with the autographs of pilgrhns and travellers. The bonzes invited us to register our own names, and they otter to sell the god to any purchaser for the price of old copper. 'TAPANK8B B0NZK8. VISIT TO Intcrrienr with the Ji Uistory.—The Mil —The Question of Delnoiiico of Ycd, On hoard the Seward's arrival at '"v'ted him to a l Jiipaiiesc ministry ^vere to be j)resen Seward ex'cnsed Ji J'ealth and his Iiab "•i-ote, at the same pi'ivate manner, am \y Jiis respects to '"^'. H-e set out on , ''«'ompanied by Mi ^'i'i in our seats, ]>referring the open tempest there to the close and nauseating cabin. The captain was self-collected ; he ordered the to])-nuists down, and every spar well secured. Three anchors, tlio ship's entire ground-tackle, were thrown out ; every vessel, and every other cd)ject on sea and land, now disappeared from our view. ^V^ith confused ^\y^t we niicrj.f "1 motion, to ], .I'lvenile officers 'Jiirk and di-ear> 'lad been wreck, t'lf tidal waves, ^^-ators, or in anj ^t twelve o'c file guns were bi' ^^^^l•ks and stanch ■'^I'-ii-s would cni.sl '"H'crtain whetJiei f" pieces in Jier '"^' air exee])t thr "^ whicli made so ;'''''"^''s an officer, '" •' '"^v voice, ' It claimed, "It is the J^- 'nif an hou, •'"'^ ^^'e sea, thou^ vessels which liad Ij "f' longer there. 1 ■*'"' presumption in '''"'^'« f'rew manne '•f'^vcd us around tli, <'" ^''0 way we pas '""'•"^N and hangin< ''•'^<'" vessels were s "'""•^ '>'^v- WJien M '""^•" '»niJdings on tl .'" ^''^' Kr was tho "'^' Monocacy had n ""■ •■'•"«"Iatc liad be. ^'^"*''",v part. '"^unset came on STORM IN THE HAY. 55 ue ; 8 ; idst With confused fears that some shij) might be driving against us, or that we might be dragging toward a lee-shore, we put our engines in motion, to keep the Monocaoy up to her ancliors. The more juvenile officers, of whom, of course there were many, enlivened the (lark and dreary hours by whispered accounts of all the ships which had been wrecked, or escaped wreck, in all the typhoons, and all the tidal waves, and all the eartlnpiakes that have raged in Asiatic waters, or in any other seas, within the memory of man. At twelve o'clock, we were driven from the deck by alarms that the guns were breaking loose from their fastenings, that the bul- warks and stanchions were giving way, and the bending masts and si)ars would crush us. We took refuge once more in the cabin, uncertain whether the ship was parting her ancliors, or breaking t(» pieces in her berth. All the hatchways being closed, exclud- ing air except through a convoluted funnel, a lethnrgy came over us, which made some heli)less, and nearly all hopeless. About two (('clock, an officer, anxiously and carefully consulting the glass, said in a low voice, ' It is rising," and, after a few seconds more, he ex- claimed, "It is the end ! " And so it was. In half an hour we were on deck again. The sky was bright, and the sea, though yet rolling, had lost its violence. But the vessels which had been moored in such dangerous proximity were no longer there. The lee-shore was so near that we wondered at our presumption in having aiu-hored there. At five o'clock, a full boat's crew manned a prize-gig, and with bright and merry oars rowed us around the forts to the wharf of the consulate at Yeddo. On the way we passed a crowded steamer, broken directly in the middle, and hanging across the rampart of the upper fort; while a (l('Zcn vessels were seen half out of water in the shallow and treach- erous bay. When we saw the broken walls, overturned trees and fallen buildings on the shore, we were convinced that our anchorage in the bay was the safer refuge, notwithstanding all its terrors. The ]\[onocacy had neither parted a ropo nor started a nail, while the consulate had been beaten and shattered on all sides and in I' very part. Sunset came on ; while there was no rainbow, all the prismatic ri 1'. - i '1 ^ 56 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COUIIIN CHINA. colors and hues were painted on the broken and rolling clouds, as brilliantly and as distinctly as they are ever seen in the " arch of promise " itself. With what grateful emotions did we reflect that the tempest which so often breaks and destroys the stanchest of ships in the Eastern seas, had been in this instance withhold, not only until we had crossed the great ocean, but even until we had found an anchor- age from which we had beheld the terrific phenomenon without disaster ! Monday, October 8c?. — The Monocacy having done her best to rouse the sleeperis of the capital by a salute to Mr. Seward, returned down the bay to Yokohama. Thanks to her brave officers and no- ble crew, with earnest wishes for their health and promotion. The damages of the considate have been repaired sufficiently for our comfortable accommodation. We are guests of the minister and the consul. At an early hour an officer came from the Minister of Foreign Aflfairs, to learn when Mr. Seward would make his promised visit. lie appointed ten o'clock, to-morrow. Before we go to the foreign office, it mny be well to recall some points of history, in order to n\ake our observations on Yeddo intelligible. The people of Japan, whether indigenous here or derived from Siberia, assumed political organization, according to their own records, about twenty-four hundred years ago, in the two islands of Niphon and Kiusiu. They were governed by an emperor, wlm, being descended from the igods, was divine and absolute on eartii, and when he died was worshipped. Not only was his person too sacred to be looked upon by a stranger, but even the sun must not shine on his head. It was sacrilegious to touch the dishes from M'hich he ate. At his death, his twelve wives and all their attend- ants committed han-kari. These attributes are still popularly cim- ceded to him. As vicegerent of Heaven, he wears the title of Tenno; as sovereign in temporal affairs, he is the Mikado or Emperor. Miilko, some thirty miles inland, was his ancient capital, anil ri| ,:^ mVK '^i[r 'J m m ':'ilil!': Illllljjjillpill Ins KIS no, rtii, too not troni ■ cun- or iUlil o R- a r 1 r 'I 58 JAPAN CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Osaka its seaport. TJie Emperor by divine right owned the landa ill the empire, and in time graciously divided them into provinces; retaining live or more of these for liimself, he parcelled out the others among great lords or ]>rinces, called daimios. In the thir- teenth century, a rebellion arose in the empire, and the Mikado, remalnintr at Miako, committed the defence of the state to the richest and strongest one of these daimios, who wore the title of " Tycoon." This military commander, after a short time, absorbed the temporal sovereignty and reigned absolutely. Yeddo thus be- came a third capital of the empire. The Tycoon, nevertheless, paid homage to the Mikad(j, who re- tained his titular rank, and unquestioned spiritual authority and preeminence. Besides the proper revenues of his own five prov- inces, the Mikado enjoyed, for the support of his dignity, an annual allowance made by the Tycoon, out of the general revenues of the empire. As he cultivated religion and such science as tho ago allowed, Miako became the centre of intelligence and learning. It still retains this distinction. Osaka being an alternate residence of the Mikado, it partook of the sanctity of the capital. By degrees the Mikado, free from all responsibility for admin- istration, grew in the affcetions of the people, while the Tycoon, exercising his power despotically, and held responsible for all na- tional disasters and misfortunes, became an object of juiblic jealousy and hatred. It was at this juncture that the United States, through Commodore Perry, and the European powers afterward, made their treaties with the Tycoon, in ignorance of any pretensions on the part of the Mikado to temporal power. It was the Tycoon who sent two successive embassies to the United States, one in 1800 and the other in 18G8. In 1805, the ministers of the Western powers, residing at Yeddo, wrote alarming accounts of popular discontents with the Tycoon^s administration, and of frantic appeals made to the Mikado to resume the sovereign power, annul the treaties, and expel foreigners from the empire. For this object, a party was formed by powerful daimios and fanatical ecclesiastics. While matters were in this situation, a young daimio, son of the powerful Prince Satsuma, was improving an academic vacation in England, to in the Departm of the local par prise, he answei *' is the cause oi He replied : " T a general in the ernment, and cl intolerable." ' tion was connn dred years since The revolut abolished, and leaving his spii resumed the t] the treaties, an powers. Octojer 4:th.- at Mr. Seward's according to oi disciplined. After a dilig stables in the c worn Englloh c, escort. Taking in Japanese sc to the foreign and the consul gone forward t( found them fill learned that M numerous natio The foreign enclosed by a open ; Mr. Sew; c VISIT TO THE FOREIGN OFFICE. 59 in England, to visit the United States. He went to Mr. Seward, in the Department of State. lie inquired of the priut'O to which of the local pra-ties in Japan he behjnged. To Mr. Seward's sur- prise, he answered, "to the Mikado's." "What," said Mr. Seward, " is the cause of the civil war, and what question does it involve i " He replied : " The Tycoon, who has no title to the throne, but is only a general in the imperial service, some time ago usurped the gov- ernment, and claims to transmit it to his heirs. This usurpation is intolerable." " How long," said Mr. Seward, " since this usurpa- tion was connnitted ? " " Oh, it is very recent — it is only six hun- dred years since it occurred." The revolution was successful, the dynasty of the Tycoon was abolished, and the heaven-descended Mikado in the year ISOS, leaving his spiritual scat at Miako, repaired to Yeddo, and fully resumed the throne of his ancestors. He promptly confirmed the treaties, and of course was duly recognized by the Western powers. October Mh. — At nine this morning a cavalry-escort Avas ]>laced at Mr. Seward's command. It is attentive and orderly, although, according to our Wester) i ideas, not particularly well mounted or disciplined. After a diligent exploration of the two or three European livery- stables in the city, the consul succeeded in procuring three well- worn Englioh carriages, drawn by native ponies, like those of our escort. Taking no heed of the suggestion that women are forbidden in Japanese sceicty, and unknown at court, Mr. Seward proceeded to the foreign office with the ladies, the minister, Mr. llandall and the consul. (Mr. George F. Seward and Mrs. Seward have gone forward to Shanghai.) As we drove through the streets, wc found them filled with gayly-dressed and merry crowds, and thus learned that Mr. Seward's appointment had fallen on one of the numerous national holidays. The foreign office is in the centre of a paved court, which is' enclosed by a stone-wall twelve feet high. The gates were wide open ; Mr, Seward and his friends were received by hundreds of »-■•'•»« It '. '^ 60 JAPAN. CHINA. AND COCHIN CHINA. official persons, with protuinid demonstrations of homage. The inner building is of wood, one story high, surrounded by a broad corridor. The corridor itself is sei)arated from the court by sliding sash-doors, with oiled-paper and silk instead of glass. On the inner side the corridor opens into a succession of chand)ers constructed like those of the monastery we have before described ; the apart- ments small, the ceilings low and the partitions movable panels. The floors are covered with matting. \Ve were conducted throujijli the corridor to a room a little larger than ''e ovhevs, perhaps eighteen feet square. Some furni- ture had be( ;; tosnoorized here. There was a European centre- JAPANESE OKKICKR OK STATE. table covered with under the table, ai and a rich bronze StOols in the ord( ard beinix next tl great rustling of sil He bowed many ti Seward in the Auk as they were fornui embari'assment in i U'ell he might, fo: shall come" that t! race, who, within olticial circle in Jaj the ancient court ot have little sense an interior has this in admitted here." Sawa is live fe ^fongolian, with it and an expression tret very small an( elaborately oiled, a (»t his head rested a by its shape remin( cned under the ch cdhIs with tas-els (hvss was double— the upper garments were of gold and and stockings — the piece; at his side scabbard of ivory ii an impression that inconvenient and in a very low voic JAPANESE PRIME MINISTER. 61 table covered with an oruamentul elotli, a small Brussels rug spread under the table, and ui)on it a laecpiered box tilled with c-hevoots, and a rich bronze brazier containinij^ live charcoal. We cat on siools in the order indicated by the Ja|)anebe usher, IMr. Sew- ard bein<^ next the seat reserved for the host. Presentlv, with j^^reat rustling of silks, Sawa, the Minister of Foreign All'airs, ento cd. He bowed nuiny times verv hnv. lie then gave his hand to Mr. Seward in the American fashion, and afterward to the other visitors, as they were formally presented, manifesting, however, some slight einbari-assment in exchanging this lorm of courtesy with the ladies. Well he might, for " be it known imto all to whom these presents shall come" that they are the only women, of whatever nation or race, mIio, within the menuM-y of man, have been received in an official circle in Japan. The Japanese (xovernment is t ^iohind the ancient court of Ilarouu-al-liaschid, in the opinion that " tmen have little sense and no religion." The [)orch of a temj)le in the interior has this inscription: " Xcither horses, cattle, n"r women, admitted here." Saw,! is five feet ten, and stout. Tie has the itures of the ^loiigolian. with its complexion a little relieved, clear, mild eyes, and an expression at once intelligent and amiable; his hands and fcot very small and delicate, his hair gathered up from all sides, elaborately oiled, and brushed and fastened in a knot. On the to]) of his head rested a curiously-carved jet-black lacquered cap, which by its shape reminded us of a toy -boat. This ornament was fast- ened under the chin and behind the head, by heavy purple silken conls with tassels larcre enouffh for nuxlest "svindow-curtains. His tlrcss was double — an under-tunic and trousers of dark silk reps ; the upper garments, of the same cut, though more full and flowing, were of gold and white brocade. He wore sj)otless white shoes and stockings — the shoe and stocking of each foot being of one l)iece; at his side a single sword, highly wrought, with hilt and scabbard of ivory and gold. Some show of awkwardness gave us an impression that he found his magnificent toilet, on this occasion, inconvenient and uncomfortable. Looking at Mr. Seward, Sawa, in u very low voice, pronounced, in the Japanese language, what I ! *t t r. ■• . js •« r I ( ) i I t t G3 JAPAN, CIIIN'A. AND COCHIN CHINA. 8()undcd like not one speech, hut a succession of distinct sen- tences. The interpreter I.slitabashi, kneelin*): at his side, at the close of each sentence siirniiied his nnderstan(lin«? of it by the aspirate " Hi ! hi ! hi ! " Sawa having tinished, Ishtabashi gathered JAPANESE INTF.UPRETER, IN COrRT DRRAS. np the sense of these fragmentary speeches, and rendered the whole into English, as follows : " Mr. Seward, all the ministers of Japan proposed to receive you on your arrival at Yeddo, at such a time as you would appoint. But this is a holiday in our country. It is our custom that at this hour, on every holiday, all the ministers repair to the castle, and pay their homages to liis Majesty the Tenao. The other ministers have gone there for that purpose. I have obtained from his Majesty tl behalf of my ai Mr. Seward had unwittingl Sawa resuii by character. happy to see it, Mr. Seward Japan, and bec( The Ministe 60 long a journ some. You sIk All of us will b( a statesman." We arc not { long and intere deferential on b( fcssion of politici was asking Mr. I United States G the boundary-qii Saghalien. Mr, responsibility, tr the United Stat other side of the them concerninlained the arrangements which had been made for that purpose ; then, stipidating a private interview with Mr. De Long for the afternoon, the Minister of Foreign Aflairs rose and took a graceful leave by bowing and shaking hands cordially with the whole party. Yeddo is a singular combination of compactly-built and densely- inhabited districts, with intervenhig gardens and groves, appropri- ated to civil and religious uses. When in one of those po})ulou8 districts, it is difficult to conceive that the whole vast city is not built in the same way ; and when in one of the deeply- shaded parks, it is impossible to realize that you are in the heart of a great city. As Sawa had suggested, we proceeded first to Sheba, the spa- cious jrrounds which contain the colossal tombs of the Tycoons who nded in Japan so many centuries. Some of the tombs are of griinite, others of bronze. They surpass^ not only in costliness, but in impressive ctfect, any imperial or royal modern cemetery ill the "West. The sarcophagus, the obelisk, and the shaft, forms familiar in AVestern monumental architecture, e(pially prevail here. The monuments bear no epitaphs, but each is surrounded with many lantern-bearing votive shrines, covered with inscriptions commemorative of the virtues and achievements of the dead, and expressing the affection and gratitude of the princes by whom the tributai structures were erected. The domain is planted with great taste. Each particular tree and shrub has been formed and trained int^/ a shape suggestive of religious sentiment. By the side of the cemetery stands the Temple of Sheba. "What with hideous devices of the great red dragon of Japan, with his forked wings, flaming mane, and powerful claws, the monstrous « 1 * 1 ( ) ' a H i>C JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCIIIN CHINA. TIMBS OF TIIK TYruONS. transfunuiitioiiK of Buddha into lions rampaiit and rojirinjx, pea- cocks ])roiid and stnittinf;, and sai^acious storks hta!kin<; and p.ofkhosyini;, the interior of the temple is a weird eond)ination of the mythie and the terrific. Th()Uirite(1 man- ner in which she sustains him in his diplomatic studies and laborn. AVe left the British leiration in com|)act ])roceasion, as we had entered it, Mr. Seward and Mr. l)e Lont tin's discovery, wi proh'(jces in safety, yielded to groimdk main body of the ji tlie occasion of tlic trouble. Ocfoler r)th.~A tlio Ilamagoten and feasted. The palace luxuriously furnisiiec pi-opriately called tlu rated exclusively wit tions, and so well exc ail' stirred by their m ot'C^entraiParkin X, Tiicro are quaint b;u A GROUNDLESS ALARM. 69 trucks. These crowds were rapidly moving in the direction of the missing carriages. Tlie guards who surrounded the forward car- riage gesticulated, in a numner betokening alarm. Mr. Dc Long, a Western gentleman, becoming excited, said to Mr. Seward, " There is a tight; the ladies are attacked!" AVith this exclamation, he sprang from the carriage and rushed back at the top of his speed, his long whip in his left hand and a Colt's revolver in his right, determined to effect a rescue. Mr. Seward remained sitting in the little pony-carriage on the Nippon-Bas, attracting a constantly in- creasing native crowd. Mr. De Long, scattering the natives right and left, found the carriages in the clear, open street, a hundred rods distant from the bridge and vacant, while, upon the matted floor of a silk-merchant's " go-down," he found the ladies with the consul, sipping tea, a ceremony always introductory here to the cheapening of Jai)anese crapes and gauzes. Without saying a word, the minister pocketed his revolver, and, lowering his whip in the most pacific manner, walked quickly back to Mr. Seward, whom he tbund safe on the bridge. Even at this hour of writing, it remains uiucrtain what was the sentiment which overpowered Mr. De Long at this discovery, whether it was one of satisfaction at finding his pi'oii'icturcd fans, in many different posi- tidus, and so well executed that you might fancy that you feel the air stirrcil by their motion. The grounds are as extensive as those of (Central Park in New York, and not less elaborately embellished. There are quaint bamboo summer-houses, with j)retty scroll roofs, 11. covered with houses, standi Tliere are gro^ Stately siiade casties, and si the sniootli ba From the wonderingly e have seen. Si far from beiiiir temple, a bowh has been made, cved with a sto' and falls with look with reve; the other browi; c-aparJHoned, ofc in perpetual rea* beasts are maiiit; tics in Jaj)an, as expedients for r Osalcasa arc ren entertainments, A dinner was of Yeddo. Lea\ and our boots at Ii!i,dily-polis]ied ilo'/AHi chambers tlie clean matter ptM-son. It was ( ^'iiall covers. T. •'•"d piping hot. ^«'y and distaste small, shallow, rw tea-saueers. Onr eleven pretty gh THE JAPANESE DELMONICO'S. n covered with hundreds of '-reepors, Icucwn to us only in onr ^'"^on- houses, standing in *ho niidtit oi' lakes well stocked with gold-fish. There are groves of mulberries, chestnuts, persimmons, and oranges. Stately shade-trees, cut and twisted into the shapes of animals, castles, and ships, crown hundreds of high knolls which overlook the smooth bay of Yeddo. From the Ilamagoten, we drove to old Osakasa, where we wonderingly examined a temple which surpasses all the others wo have seen. Superstition, though abating in Japan, is nevertheless far from being extinct. They show at Sheba, in the court of the temple, a bowlder, in tho top of which a deep, smooth, circular basin has been made, which is tilled with water, and kept carefully cov- ered with a stone lid. It is an accepted belief that this water rises and falls with the ocean-tide. At Osakasa we were required to look with reverence upon two native ponies (one cream-colored, the other brown), both nicely trimmed and groomed, and superbly caparirfoned, occupying apartments neat as a parlor. They remain In perpetual readiness for t!ie eipiestrian exercises of the gods. The beasts are maintained by pious contributions of pilgrims. Ecclesias- tics in Ja{)an, as sometimes they do elsewhere, resort to t % m rl?- :^ u u ffi •J r « • <4 t 1 76 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. the horsea at every st(>pi)in«,'-i)hice, or in any ease of alarm. The road was literally erowded, and hilarity and merriment displayed themselves on all sides. The erowds were labyrinthian. The aetivity and sungs of the hettos, and the ejaeulatiuns and impreca- tions of our mounted guard, with the clangor of their arms, made our rapid drive a very exciting one, while a bracing air with genial sunshine was exhilarating. But all pleasures have their draw- backs. Neither the hettos nor the dragoons were capable of under- stauding our retjuests or renuuistrances. They wanted rest at every tea-house, or, what was the same thing, they sought favor at the tea-houses by bringing us up at the doors. The guard dis- mounted, and, with the hettoSy took the refreshments })rofusely of- fered them, while we, though declining any, were obliged to wait. "When we had made twelve miles, half the distance to Yokohama, we brouglit up at a hostelry, with a stable. Our horses were taken out to be fed and groouiod. From open windows in an upper chamber we saw in the court a huge brass caldron sunk in the ground over an oven. The horses were brouglit to it. Four grooms took possession of each horse, and rubbed him thoroughly from head to hoof with wisps of straw dripping with hot water, and afterward dried him with as much care as the human [)atient re- ceives when he comes out of a Turkish bath. We improved the time by a Japanese dinner, which, when we were completely sur- feited, we left unfinished, very much to the disaj^pointment of the music-girls. Once more on the road, we indulged a faint hope of reaching Yokohama before midnight. AV^e came, after three or four miles, to the bank of a river twenty rods wide. There was one rough flat-boat on the other side, worked by an endless chain. We awaited its tedious arrival aiul delivery of passengers multitudinous and various. Then our beasts were led separately into the boat and crossed. It returned to our shore, and, as in the riddle of the fox, goose and ])eck of corn, took the dragoons and the carriages. ** Last came joy's ecstatic trial." AVe hurried on board, and, reach- ing the opposite bank, found the vehicles there, but not the horses. We were obliged to walk forward a (piarter of a mile, to a pLace where the hettos and cavalry were taking tea and smoking, as if they ARHIVAL AT YOKOHAMA. 77 had fasted the wliolo day. Then they went back and brought uj) the iin})edinienta. A l)riin:int, full-orbed luoou expanded into majestic size every object tliat we passed, and lit up the waters of tiie bay as we a|'})roached Kan i;:fawa. Mr. De Louie's native ponies, ai'ter fretpiently giving out on the way, fell in climbing the sharp, high hill, and it taxed our own horsemanship to get over this dif- ficult part oi' the road. The other carriage was drawn over the hill by tl bettoa and drag(jons, and the i)onies were then re- attached. Meantime hettos and dragoons lighted each his varie- gated paper lantern. They made the suburban streets of Yoko- hama resound with vociferous shouts, thus exciting the astonish- ment and perhaps the fears of this inoffensive people. We arrived at Mr. Walsh's hospitable gate, much to the satisfaction of our friends within, who, owing to the lateness of the hour, had become apprehensive for our safety. / " Steamship New Yorh^ of the Coad of Japan ^ October Wi. — We have embarked, without liaving had time on shore to record the latest and most striking incidents of our visit at Yokohama. Mr. Seward was not allowed to leave Japan without a marlced dem- onstration from the government, as well as an exi)ressi()n of rcj^i^jct from the foreign residents. On our return from Yeddo, on tlie Gth, he received an invitation to an audience of the Mikado. This ceremony is usually distinguished by jn'ocrastinations and formalities even more tedious than in European courts. The time being shortened, however, in this case, the invitation was accepted. Yesterday morning, we were awakened from slee]i, which was quite too short after our drive on the previous day, by an infinite clatter of mechanics, u])holsterers, and decorators, who were engaged in constructing with canvas, all around Mr. Walsh's very large house, a broad suite of saloons, dancing-halls, waiting-rooms and pupper-rooms. The whole was completed during the day, decorated with flags and tropical shrubbery, and flowers, and softly lighted by fanciful lanterns. The band of the German naval squadron played " Hail Columbia," and the ball was opened at ten o'clock. All the diplomatic and consular corps were present, us well as the naval 1 •c, » 1 t ■a f I * I] ,'iu ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h // z/^.^^!-^ y. ^ w & % 1.0 I.I 1^1^ 12.5 ^ KS 12.2 !IIIL25 II 1.4 2.0 1^ 1.6 V] v ^>. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y 14580 (7)6) s/i^soa ■1>^ \ ^ \ \ :\ officers of the Un dents. Of course, we have before inti popuLations. Cast^ sal civilization. T generous hospitalit journ with Mr. an( At two o'clock yet going on, Captf Mr. Walsh's compc yacht and received stranee, persisted in of a driving wind ai Mr. Sliepherd, and iiig tliree or four 1 Yeddo. At eiglit c Japanese costume, words: "I am waitii tlic great castle, Avhe: not in the customar^j an expression of pen commanded to mak posed audience." At nine o'clock an enlarged mountc design or not, throi closures, which are daimios who, under reside during alternj cnpital. The discon tlie Mikado, is a sin a more popular sysl kings of Europe who The barracks vacatec imi)erial battalions, been a ferocious cre^\ INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. ro officers of the United States and other nations, and foreign resi- dents. Of course, not one Japanese of either sex was there, for, as we have before intimated, there is no social intermingling of the two populations. Caste and race are unrelenting antagonists to univer- sal civilization. This beautiful ball crowned most gracefully the generous hospitalities of which we were recipients during our so- journ with Mr. and Mrs. Walsh. At two o'clock yesterday morning, while the merry dance was yet going on. Captain Bachelor brought to the wharf, in front of Mr. AValsh's compound, then so highly illuminated, a little steam- yacht and received Mr. Seward on board, whO;, against all remon- strance, persisted in keeping his engagement, although in the midst of a driving wind and rain. lie was accompanied by Mr. De Long^ Mr. Sliepherd, and Mr. Walsh, and at six o'clock, after ground- ing three or four times on the way, they were safely landed at Yeddo. At eight o'clock, Mr. Ishtabashi appeared in rich ofiicial Japanese costume, and, profoundly bowing, said, with measured words: "I am waiting for the honor of conducting Mr. Seward to tlic great castle, where he will be received by his Majesty the Tenno ;. not in the customary official manner, but in a private audience, as an expression of personal respect and friendship, I am particularly commanded to make this explanation of the character of the pro- posed audience." At nine o'clock the party proceeded in two carriages, witb an enlarged mounted escort. Tliey were conducted, whether by design or not, through streets bordered by immense walled en- closures, which are the strongholds and barracks of the several daimios who, under the Tycoon's administration, were required to reside during alternate periods, with their armed retainers, at the- capital. The discontinuance of this usage, since the restoration of the Mikado, is a singular illustration of the same advance toward a more popular system of government which was made by the kings of Europe when they reduced the feudal barons to subjection. The barracks vacated by the daimios' soldiers are now occupied by imperial battalions. The feudal soldiers of the Tycoon must have boen a ferocious crew, if they were more savage than these rough «**•• t\ \ > I 5 -! :i 80 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. and ill-looking guards of the Tenno. The citadel, called " The Great Castle," crowns an eminence in the centre of the city. It is a triple fortification, nine miles in circumference, consisting of three con- centric forts, each by itself complete, with rampart, inner embank- ment, ditch, bastion and glacis, parapet and double gates. The outer fort stands on a level with the plain, the next higher, and the central one higher still, overlooking the country and the sea. The walls of each are fifty feet high, built of granite blocks, more mas- sive than those of the Eip-Raps, oil' Old Point Comfort. The impe- rial palace is in the centre of the inner fort. It is a low structure, differing from the temples and monasteries which we have before described, not in niaterial or style of architecture, but in the ar- rangement of its apartments. The area which surrounds it is tastefully planted and adorned with lawns, winding gravelled walks, small lakes, and what we would call summer-houses, and tenements for attendants and servants. The areas of the other two fortifications are similarly embellished. In any past stage of mili- tary science, the citadel must have been impregnable. "We cannot learn its history. AVlicn Mr. Seward and his friends had reached the gates of the outer fort, they were received with a salute at each of the double portals, and were permitted to pass through in carriages to the gates of the second. They were received here with similar hon- ors, and passed to the gates of the tliird. Entering these with salutes as before, they were received by one of the eight Ministers of Foreign Aftairs, who, having requested them to dismiss their carriages, conducted them, with much obeisance, across the lawns to a sheltered place, where they rested on lacque/ stools. Here a second Minister of Foreign Aflfiiirs joined the party, and, making new compliments, led them to seats on the shore of a small lake. Here the minister informed Mr. Seward that Mr. Walsh, being an unofficial gentleman, could proceed no farther, and that the same rule excluded Freeman. They stopped. At this juncture Sawa, chief Minister of Foreign Affairs, met Mr. Seward, and conducted him to a summer-house more spacious than the others, which over- looks a larger and deeper lake. On the way thither, he obtained a INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 81 view of a part of the imperial stud. A rail twelve or fifteen feet long is fixed three feet above the ground, on supports. Several iron-gray Japanese ponies, unattended by grooms, stood at this rail, in readiness for his Majesty's use at the close of the proposed audi- ence. When the party had arrived at the summer-house, the prime- minister, the Chief Minister of Finance and the heads of the other departments, were found waiting, and they were severally presented by Sawa to Mr. Seward, The whole party then sat down at an oblong table, the prime-minister presiding, and Mr. Seward and the other visitors on his left hand, the Japanese ministers on his right. The prime-minister first, and after him each of his associates, ad- dressed Mr. Seward in words of courteous welcome, to which he briefly replied. A pleasant conversation now ensued, during which tea, cakes, confectionery, cigars and champagne, were tMccessively brought in by attendants, who prostrated themselves on the ground at every ofier of their service. The prime-minister then, in a very direct but most courteous way, said to Mr. Seward : " It is thf" custom of his Majesty the Tenno to receive official visits upon busi ness affairs in an edifice which is built for that express public pur- pose, and called among us a court ; but his Majesty on this occasion recognizes you as a special friend of Japan, and a man devoted to the welfare of all nations, and he therefore proposes, by way of showing his high respec. for you, to receive you, not at a public court, but in a private lodge of his own, to which he will come down fi'om his palace to meet you." Mr. Seward answered that he appreciated his Majesty's conde- scension and kindness. "While this conversation was going on, Mr. Seward, looking through an open window, saw at a long dis- tance his friend Mr. Walsh, and Freeman, walking within the pre- cinct which had been appointed them. Presently, an officer came hurriedly into the presence of the grave international council at the summer-house, and announced an intrusion. The prime-minister, upon Mr. Seward's explanation, directed that tlie supposed eaves- droppers should not be interfered with, but they must come no farther. When half sn hour had passed, a chamberlain announced his r ^ • i I I S2 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Majesty's arrival at the summer-house. Sawa and Ishtabasln re- mained with Mr. Seward ; all the other ministers took leave to join the Mikado. A final summons came to Sawa ; he rose and con- ducted the party some distance along a smooth, narrow walk, till they came to a high, shaded knoll, conversing by the way. The minister and Ishtabaslii now stopped, and, making lov/ genu- flections, announced, in subdued and almost Avhispering tones, that his Majesty was to be in a summer-house directly behind this hill. After this, there was no word spoken. When they had gone round the knoll, the lodge which now contained the heaven-derived Maj- esty ' ipan came to view. It stands five feet above the ground, is one story high, and consists of four square rooms of equal size, Avith sliding partitions, the ceilings six feet high, and the whole building surrounded by a veranda. All the rooms were thrown open, and were without furniture. The visitors entered the apartment, which was at their left, and, looking directly forward, saw only Ishtabaslii surrounded by a crowd of official persons, all crouched on the floor. Having reached the exact centre of the room, Mr. Seward was requested to turn to the right. He did this without changing his place. The United States minister and the consul stood at his right iiand. In this position he directly confronted the Mikado, m'Iio was sittin": on a throne raised on a dais two feet above the floor. The throne :s a large arm-chair, apparently of burnished gold, not difi'er- 43nt in form or ornamert I'rom the thrones which are used on cere- monial occasions in European courts. All the cabinet ministers and many other officials had arranged themselves below the dais, and behind and around the throne. The Mikado was dressed in a voluminous robe of re.ldish-brown brocade, which covered his whole person. His head-dress differed in fashion from that which was worn by Sawa in our audience with him, only in this, that a kind of curved projecting prong Avas attached to the boat-shaped cap, and bent upward, the corresponding appurtenance of the minister's cap being shorter, and bent downward. What with the elevation of the dais, and the height of his elongated cap, the emperor's per- son, though in a sitting posture, seemed to stretch from the floor ±0 the ceiling. His appearance in that flowing costume, surrounded from a translatio INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 8'S by a mass of ministers and courtiers, enveloped in variegated and equally redundant silken folds, resting on the floor, reminded Mr. Seward of some of the efforts in mythc'ogy to represent a deity sitting in the clouds. His dark countenance is neither unintelligent nor particularly expressive. He was motionless as a statue. He held a sceptre in his right hand, and at his left side wore one richly- ornamented, straight s\>crd. What the Mikado and his court thought of the costumes of his visitors, with their uncovered heads, square, swallow-tailed dress-coats, tight white cravats, tighter panta- loons, and stiff, black boots, we shall never know. Who shall pro- nounce between nations in matters of costume ? The Mikado raised his sceptre, and the prime-minister, kneeling, then announced to the United States minister, by the aid of Ishtabashi, also kneeling, that lie might speak. Mr. De Long advanced a step or two, and, bowing three several times, said : " I hope I find your Majesty in good health." The prime-minister, kneeling again, presented to the Mikado a written paper, open, and as large as a sheet of foolscap. The Em- peror, after looking at its contents, touched it with his sceptre. The prime-minister read it aloud in Japanese. Ishtabashi, again kneeling, brought his head to the floor, and, then raising it, read, from a translation which lay before him on the floor, his Majesty's gracious answer : " I am very well ; I am glad to see you here." Thereupon Mr. De Long, thus rcassure(,l, said in a distinct voice, worthy of a Western orator as he is : " I have the honor to present to your Majesty, William H. Sew- ard, a citizen of the United States. Your Majesty having been pleased to invite him to this audience, it is unnecessai*y for me to speak of the achievements or of the character of this eminent Ameri- can statesman." The interpreter, having rendered this speech into Japanese, Mr, De Long resumed his place. In accordance with an intima- tion from the prime-minister, Mr. Seward now advanced, and said : " I am deeply impressed by this gracious reception by the sovereign, at the capital of this great, populous, and emulous em- pire. I desire to express earnest wishes for your Majesty's per- IS.'- -s; ll' ■>« ri ir c ^ T. ; I t1 84 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. sonal health and happiness, and for the peace, welftire, and pros- perity of Japan." The prime-minister held before his Majesty another paper, which, being read by him, was then rendered by the interpreter as follows : " I am glad to see you now for the first time. I congratulate you on your safe arrival here, after the very long journey you have made. The great experience which you have had must enable you to give me important information and advice how to promote the friendship that happily exists between your country and my own. If you Avould please to communicate any thing in that way, you are requested to make it known to my prime-minister, and I invite you to express yourself frankly and without reserve." Mr. Seward replied : " I thank your Majesty for this gracious permission to confer with the prime-minister on international affairs. A citizen of the United States, I am visiting Japan and the adjacent countries on the Pacific coast, as a traveller and ob- server. I wear no ofiicial character, and I bring no message. The President, however, and all my countrymen, will expect me not to leave any thing undone which I can do, to promote a happy under- standing between those countries and the United States, as well as also the advancement of civilization in both hemispheres. "With this view, I shall, with great pleasure, avail myself of the privileges v/hich your Majesty has granted me." The Empeior, with his entire court, remained in place until the visitors had retired, after an exchange of salutations. They wore conducted back to the summer-house. All the Japanese ministers soon cntei'ed and resumed their places around the table. Eefresli- ments were served, and Mr. Seward was informed that his audience was the first occasion on which the Mikado has completely unveiled himself to a visitor. ITot only the prime-minister, but all his asso- ciates, discussed with Mr. Seward at much length the political re- lations of Japan with foreign powers. The minister desired him to take notice that the government, in dealing with the vanquished Tycoon's party in Japan, at the close of the late revolution, liad copied the example of toleration given them by the United States. INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 85 They carefully inquired concerning the machinery employed in the United States in taking the decennial census, and also the details of the system of collecting and disbursing public revenues. They wrote a letter on the spot, addressed to their ambassador at Peking, and, delivering it to Mr. Seward, solicited his aid of their interest at that court. Mr. Seward was deeply impressed on two points : First, that although the administration of justice in Japan is conducted in a manner widely different from that of the Western nations, yet that the public mind entertains not the least distrust of its impartiality. Second, that the administration of the Mikado is sincerely emulous and progressive. Again, if there is any danger ill the near future, it will arise, not from a retarding, but from a more rapid acceptance by the government of "Western ideas and sentiments, than a people so rude can at once understand. The ministers had assigned the whole day for the high consnlta- tion. They expressed much regret when Mr. Seward announced that he v*-as obliged to depart at the earliest moment for Yokohama, where the steamer was waiting. Waiving invitations to examine the citadel and the imperial palace and grounds, Mr. Seward re- turned to the Consulate, and thence proceeded down the bay, directly to this steamer, bound for Iliogo. A box followed hini which contained all the cake. Cruit, and con- fectionery, which remained from the entertaini lent at the Castle. The ladies noticed that t]ie varieties of cakes were not merely col- ored externally, but through and through — crimson, yellow, purple, and indigo. The supply £ufficient for the voyage to Shanghai. It ought not to mar the effect of the Mikado's >^.ourtesy, if we state that the audience, in its minutest details, W2.d projected and perfected in the Japanese cabinet, with the concurrence of Mr. De Long. All European governments, and even tbat of the United States, adopt a similar precaution in regard to official executive audiences. Japan lias especial reasons for prudence. The empire is a soli- tary planet, that has remained stationary for centuries, until now it is suddenly brought into contact with constellations which, whfle they shed a dazzling light, continually threaten destnictive collisions- ri - 1 I $ 1.9 t1 CHAPTER III. FROM YEDDO TO SHANGHAI. Hiogo. — The Place of Massacre. — A Japanese Steamer. — The Gulf of Osaka. — A Harem on a Pie-nio. — The City of Osaka. — Tlie Tycoon's Castle. — Japanese Troops. — Nagasaki. — Beautiful Scenery. — Christians of Naga.'aki. — Japanese Character. — Departure for China. — Concluding Reflections on Japan. Iliogo (Kobe)^ Mondaij, October 10th. — A voyage of thirty-six hours, in which night and rain have prevented nil observation, has brought us to this southeastern port on the island of Niplion. The United States Consul, Mr. Stewart, and the agent of the Pacific Mail Line, came on board in the early morning. They were sur- prised when Mr. Seward pointed out to them with minuteness and accuracy the several places of interest in the port. " This," he said " is the European settlement, that place behind it the native town of Iliogo : the road which divides them is the one on which tlic Mikado's army was moving northward at the time when it fired upon and massacred the foreigners in 1804 : this is the field through which the foreigners were pursued by the Japanese soldiers on that occasion : it was in the bay here on our right that the natives massacred the French naval surveying party in their boats : was it not in the building which I see on that hill that the Mikado's officers, who were condemned to death for those atrocious outrages, committed hari-hari, and that the foreign ministers interposed after seventeen such self-executions, and said, '■ It is enough ? ' On this knoll is the place where the offenders were buried." The ottioial reports of those painful transactions which Mr. Yan Van (/) U {« u <>« r * a» 88 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Valkenbiirgh, the United States Minister, made to tlie Department of State, liad left this distinct and inolface.iblo impression on Mr. Seward'a mind. It is five years since those massacres occurred. Wo now find that the people, obeying the instinct of nationality, have erected a monument over the grave of each of those victini.s, and on that monument have recorded his voluntary death as an ad of civil and religious martyrdom. So true to country and to God are the impulses of our common nature everywhere. Iliogo is twenty miles distant from Osaka, and bears the same relation to that great southern metropolis of Japan that Yokohaniii bears to the central one of Ycddo. Iliogo, opened quite recently to foreign commerce, is not especially successful. Since the opening of Japan, the population of Yeddo has been reduced from three millions to one million, chiefly by removals to Yokohama. On tlio contrary, Osaka has not materially declined, nor has Iliogo consid- erably increased. The foreign population of Iliogo is at most two hundred. The importance of its harbor is duo to its double advan- tages as a port of Osaka and a gateway to the Inland Sea of Japan. October Wtli. — We dined yesterday with Mr. Senter's amialilc family, and slept in the Japanese bungalow, now occupied as the Consulate, by the side of its pretty lotus-garden. Although the lotus has been held sacred from time immemorial as a divine symbol throughout the whole East, it is nevertheless indigenous only in tropical and semi-tropical climates. We now for the first time see in perfection on its native soil this magnificent flower, of which, " whosoever eateth wishes never again to depart, nor to see his native country, if it groweth not there." Here the intelligent Japanese governor passed two hours with Mr. Seward, explaining the system of provincial administration, which seems very effective. He learns also that education of all classes is compulsory, and that the schools are maintained by taxa- tion, which is remitted in behalf of the poor. We went, this morning, on board a small coasting steamer, which was built in the United States for Japanese owners, and is managed exclusively by natives. The gulf of Osaka has pictu- resque shores, tl G(\^Q. Tlie slo] niits are i)ianted on the higljest p ■-^;"-i.-=,S from gilded roofs, J''tpan is a masculi native jealousy of tl .c TKMI'LK C)F TIIK MOON. 80 rcsqiic shores, tliicl.ly studded with villap!;('S, chisterinf? at the waterV edge. The slopni<^ hills are terraced und irrigated, and their smn- niits are planted with forests. The Templq of the Moon, standing on the highest peak of the mountain, reflected the morning sunlight TEMI'LK AT OSAKA. from gilded roofs, resting on snow-white cohimns. The moon in Japan is a masculine deity. Is this exceptional idea due to the native jealousy of the gentle sex ? Or is it owing to the fact that dk- M 1 90 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. it is a man's face and not a woman's that is seen in that benignanr orb ? Quien sabe ? It is the bar at Osaka which forces the ocean-trade to a harbor so distant as Hiogo. Our countryman, Admiral Bell, lost his life two years ago, in sounding it. Our steamer could not cross, though drawing only four feot. Osaka, as early as the sixteenth century, became a great com- mercial city. Its temples, surpassing those of Yeddo in number, vie with those of spiritual Miako. As we approached the bar, we saw a gay Japanese yacht, of perhaps two hundred and fifty tons, moving slowly out to se-^. under a light wind. The sails were quaint, like the form of the vessel they impelled, which was brilliant with scarlet and blue pniut and gilding. A daimio sat at the stern on the upper deck, gorgeously arrayed in silks and lacquer, sur- rounded by numerous retainers and a bevy of highly-painted and elegantly-dressed young women, who were entertaining him Avith a concert of guitars, flutes, and drums. Manifestly the daimio was giving his harem a picnic. We were transferred here to a small, neat, flat-bottomed bamboo barge, with a canopy overhead and a deck covered with mats, iu which we floated over the bar, and up to the great sea-wall of the city. The confluence of two xivers with the sea makes the harbor of Osaka, like that of Charleston. The rivers are formed into canals, and connected at convenient intervals by cross-canals. Venic(3 is not more noticeable for its gondolas and barges, nor Amsterdam for its pleasure-boats, than Osaka for its picturesque shallops cov- ered with bright awnings of various colors. It is perhaps from the anmsements of the regatta that the women in Osaka have ac- quired the fame of being the prettiest in the empire. Time served U3 to traverse only three or four of the thirty or forty canals, hut suflScient to enable us to reach the more important monuments and institutions of the metropolis, to notice the regularity of the streets, the grace and lightness of the hundred cedar bridges, and to wonder at the immense traffic carried on by families who dwell in the vessels they navigate. The wealth and enterprise of Japan belDg in the southe emporium. While, for a part of each litical capital, i commercial Os palaces, witJi si ceived dieir rei Between th dwellings, two ^^SXi^tL' tfeSE^is^ The lower story tl>e tides and flooj •IS elsewhere in The nudity, so frel and offensive. c| tJiat few foreigneri anco of dweliingsl OSAKA. 01 in the southern part of the empire, Osaka is the domestic main emporium. While, for centuries, state policy required the daimios to reside a part of each year with their armed retainer it Yeddo, the po- litical capital, the same daimios made their metropolitan homes in commercial Osaka. Here, on the banks of the canals, they erected palaces, with storehouses and wharves and offices. Here they re- ceived their rents in kind, and exchanged them in trade. Between these palaces the canals are lined with cheaply -built dwellings, two stories high, with a veranda around the first story. a;- 4 t 8TBEBT IN OSAKA. The lower story is a mercantile convenience, being washed with the tides and floods. The people seen in the streets here, as well as elsewhere in Japan, wear wooden shoes and dress coarsely. The nudity, so frequent at the nortl.', becoraec liere more common and offensive. Crowds followed us with a curiosity which shows tliat few foreigners visit Osaka. Notwithstanding the mean appear- nnco of dwellings and people, the city contrasts favorably with I I*; 92 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Yeddo, in show of prosperity and affluence. Some of the temples are built within the areas of the princely palaces. More commonly, however, they are independent and spacious, and, like the palaces, accessible through canals and bas'ins. They are on the same model with those at Yeddo, but more lavishly ornamented with allegorical carving, and statuary in granite and bronze. Men are seldom seen in or about the temples in Japan, but woman, poor, meek and rag- ged, though forbidden, steals in there, reverently paying her devo- tion to the gods and pitifully asking alms. How could woman en- dure existence anywhere on earth without the solaces of religion ? " From all ancienty to the present time," as a stump-orator, we once heard, expressed it, the Japanese have made their irregular and grotesque coins with the use only of the hammer. The govern- ment has just now established a mint at Osaka, with machinery of the latest invention, and equal, it is claimed, to the Philadelphia Mint. Here they are making new coins similar in form and de- vice to those of the Western nations, the value being based on sub- divisions of the Mexican dollar. Livy has given us what he says was the speech of Romulus when he had founded Eome: "If all the strength of cities lay in the height of their ramparts or the depths of their ditches, we should have great reason to be in fear for that which wc have now built." The Japanese might be excused i^ they should reverse this senti- ment, and speak with great confidence of the security of the empire derived from ramparts and ditches. As with Yeddo, so with Osaka. Its boast is its castle, an imperial residence and fortress of mikados and tycoons. We tried ineffectually to obtain a measurement of some of the granite blocks of this structure. Wc think it safe, how- ever, to say, that one of them is thirty feet long; fifteen feet high and five feet thick. No one knows where, when or how, such im- mense stones were riven at the quarry, and brought to the summit of the lofty hill, which overlooks the city of Osaka. The Tycoon in the late civil war, however, took possession of the castle witli his forces, only to find it a prison, and insecure at that. He was dis- lodged by the Mikado's army, and made his escape on a United States steamer. Before leaving the citadel, he destroyed its defensive works, so as t< as a camp of the castle at capital to the show considers castle, and alio honored with i European artil liorns. The di native Japanes( legged, but dre of the first orga Japanese are n evolutions and ( The Japanes the world, but t which overtook family being the our clothes, and soup." When shut out from Osaka, to be see of the "fruit of on the now rou" ' pitching of the s side-ladder of th( Nagamhl, 0> so Nagasaki com Tliat sea is a to Ocean on the ea west coast of Jap tlie southern islfi this channel m; separates once co through ? Was a MILITARY HONORS. 93 works, so as to render it unavailable to the conqueror. Now used as a camp of instruction, it is as jealously closed against visitors as the castle at Yeddo. Instructions having come down from the capital to the Governor here, as well as to the one at Hiogo, to show consideration to Mr. Seward, we were conducted through the castle, and allowed to witness the drill, and at the same time were honored with a serenade from the trumpeters, which consisted of European artillery and cavalry calls jumbled together on French horns. The din and discord may be imagined. The bronze-faced native Japanese troops, lower than European in stature, and bow- legged, but dressed in French uniforms, recalled our recollections of the first organization of negi-o troops in the late civil war. The Japanese are not less docile and orderly, and they went through evolutions and drill, according to French tactics, commendably. The Japanese umbrellas are the best as they are the cheapest in the world, but they could give us no protection from the rain-storm which overtook us in the dilapidated castle. Captain Kinder's family being the only European one in Osaka, took us in and dried our clothes, and gave us all we had time to take, " a hasty plate of soup." When we reached our yacht, black night with high winds shut out from us the beautiful gulf-shores, and so passed away Osaka, to be seen no more by us, for we have taken care not to eat of the '• fruit of destiny," the lotus. The heaving of the steamer on the now roughened sea was uncomfortable, but the tossing and ' pitching of the small boat which conveyed us from the yacht to the side-ladder of the New York was dangerous and frightful. Naga^ak% October 13^A. — As Hiogo commands the southeast, so Nagasaki commands the northwest entrance of the Inland Seu. That sea is a tortuous passage, flowing between the North Pacific Ocean on the east and the Yellow Sea or Straits of Corea on the west coast of Japan, separating the northern island of Niplion from the southern islands of Toksima and Kiusiu. How and when was this channel made? Were the three mountain-islands which it separates once compact land, and did the ocean force its passage through? Was all Japan once submerged, and were the islands *J^Ji=» t»^ f« (»'' >4 ^ i£ '•« r ■% in;- 1 r c ■'i 1 Bu- »^ »' rf 1 r « £i 04 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. thrown up in their present form ? Who can say ? Not we. Per- haps Agassiz niiglit. We must content ourselves with writing that, EN rUANCK TO NAGASAKI. like most inland seas, this of Japan is marvellously beautiful. Four hundred miles long, of varying width, everywhere deep, it M'ashes the shores of the main islands in some places, while in others it is broken into twentv narrower channels which break on the shores of uncounted lesser islands. In this the Inland Sea re- sembles our own Lake of the Woods, which takes its strange name from the fact that the island-surface enclosed within its shores exceeds in area the water-surface of the lake. Tliese islands of the Inland Sea are said to be three thousand, but we are inclined to tliink that islands in groups like these are never accurately counted. Everybody speaks of the Thousand Islands in the St. Lawrence, without remembering that they are reckoned at eighteen hundred. ^<^ IIARBOPw OF NAGASAKI. 9: The channel twists around and among the islands in all direc- tions, so that the headlands which we pass seem as Heeling as the clouds, producing ever-varying scenery. During one hour, we arc making our gloomy way under the deep shadow of a naked preci- pice four thousand feet high. In the next, we are passing terraced hill-sides, covered with sunlit orchards, Howory plains and fields, and forests in which the bamboo, the tulip and the cypress commingle. It seems as if the busy population of the whole empire has clustered on these romantic shores. Manufacturing towns alternate with 1 r1 NAGASAKI IIARBOB. fishing-villages, and every nook is filled with quaint and miniature shipping. Niffht set in, and the bell summoned us to dinner as we were beginning to round a jutting promontory of the western shore. Shall we ever forgive Mr. Kandall for beguiling us with his humor- ous stories until we were brought suddenly to our feet, by the hi 96 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. dropping of the anchor, and the firing of a gun, which announced to us that we had arrived in port 'i A moonlight view of Nagasaki ; fitting sequel of a two-days' voyage through the Inland Sea. AVe forgive Mr. Randall ; the first view of Nagasaki ought to be by moonlight. The bay is small ; we almost know, without being told, every object around us. These vessels on the larboard arc Japanese ships-of-war. This steamer directly before us is a German man-of-war ; this ship on our star- board quarter, with its black funnels and its stubbed masts, is the British admiral's flag-ship ; and this long, narrow steamer is a Rus- sian corvette. Beyond tiie area thus occupied by armed vessels are two American merchant-ships and forty awkward but sea- worthy Chinese junks. On encircling hills, which rise two thou- sand feet out Those dark si cor.sulates an ravine which the ancient nf trade ; this isl the famous Di the boast and raced hill-siae; TKMHLE OF UUUOUA AT NAUAHAKl. high, conical ro Papenburg, me Jesuit teachers AVliat does Instant with t livers its natioi swelling forth " God save the MOONLIGHT VIEW. 97 sand feet out of the sea, ai*e the temples and groves of Buddha. Those dark shades below theiu are hanging gardens in which the cor.sulates and the merchants' residences are embowered. Thi.s ravine which stretches from the shore upward on the hill-side is the ancient native town ; this quay on our right is the seat of active trade; this island just before us, hardly broader than a flat-boat, is the famous Decima, for two hundred years the mart and the prison, tho boast and the shame of the Dutch traders in Japan ; those ter- raced hill-sides opposite the town are the city of the dead ; and this •at 2 i. M f I ly^ J.fUMI^H. VIEW OK DECIMA. high, conical rock, which seems to close the passage to the sea, is Papenburg, memorable as the scene of the martyrdom of the early Jesuit teachers and converts in Japan. Wliat does this scene want to perfect its magic? Only masic! Instant with the thought, the band on the German frigate de- livers its national hymn, " Des Deutsche Yaterland ; " then come swelling forth from the British flag-ship the inspiring notes of " God save the Queen ; " and these only die away, when the solemn 98 JAPAN, nniNA, AXD COCHIN CHINA. national anthem of Eussia, " Thou pious and gentle leader, shield of the church of believers, God be the protector and defender of our great Czur," grander than !;11, rolls over the sea. Is not this glorious concevt, under the flags of these great Chris^ tian nations, in these distant and lonely waters, suggestive? Mr. Seward answered, " Yes, but deceptive." The German is here lying in wait for his French enemy ; the British admiral is here to intimidate the scmi-barbarc>us races ; and the Russian admiral is guarding the eastern gate of his master's empire, which towers be- hind and above Asiatic and European states on both continents. So it is that jealousy and ambition breathe in the notes of this ma- jestic serenade. October lUh. — It is because we cannot swim that we fear the deep. It is because we delight in climbing that we admire the high. While the flat is dull, the circle is our chosen form for the beautiful. Thus the amphitheatre, with its circular and lofty walls, was adopted for the Pantheon as well as for the Coliseum ; though it has since been sometimes discarded from the temple, it remains nevertheless universally associated with the stage and the hippodrome. If we must live in a town, give us one which, like Nagasaki, is an amphi- theatre, whose base is the sea, and whose towering walls are green and terraced mountains. It was under an inspiration like this that Peter on the mount said : " Master, it is good for us to be here. Let us make three tabernacles, one for thee, one for Moses, an one for Elias." * The preaching of Christianity here by St. Francis Xavier, in 1540, was followed by such success that, within fifty years afterward, Nagasaki w'as surrendered by its native prince to the Portuguese, and became at once the see of an episcopate, and an emporium of Portuguese trade. But Xavier little apprehended that the Order of Jesus, which he was introducing, would become so arrogant and ambitious as to contest with the native sovereign absolute dominion within the empire. The Portuguese Chris- tians thus becoming obnoxious to the government, all foreigners were within the first hundred years excluded from Japan, under pain of death, while persecutions more cruel than th-^se of Nero PARTING VIEW OF JAPAN. 09 were visited on the teachers and converts alike. A few Protestant merchants from Amsterdam, renouncing their religion, joined the government in the persr , iition of the Christians, and were ])er- mitted, under Immiliating surveillance, to replace the Portuguese at Nagasaki. This truly pitiable colony was found here on the arrival of *^he United States squadron in 1853. It was understood, at that time, that the Christian faith had been effectually extirpated by the massacres at Papenburg. The world was astonished, hoAv- ever, \i\ 1867, by a discovery that the Christian religion was still living in the province of Nagasaki, and that a large number of natives were condemned to death or servitude for their clandestine adherence to that taitb. The Western nations interposed in their behalf. The government contented itself with forcibly deporting twenty-seven hundred of the offending Christians from their homes, and distributing them through the more distant provinces of the empire. This new persecution being thus arrested, it is manifestly the intention of the government now to adopt the principle of uni- versal toleration. It would be pleasant to dwell on the hospitalities of Mr. and Mrs. Mangum, and on the courtesies of the foreign fleets. Yellow Sea, October l^th. — Leaving Nagasaki yesterday morn- ing, we carefully examined Coal Island and the other islands which close the magnificent harbor. Nor did we omit to notice that marvellous rock, which, having been dropped nobody knows how or from where, is lodged like a wedge between two naked natural abutments. Our parting view of Japan was a sunset glimpse of the Goto Group, the western outpost of the Island Empire. It is hardly more satisfactory to quit Japan after a residence of only twenty days, than it would have been to leave it altogether un visited ; nevertheless, there is Peking before us, " a bourn from which no traveller" can "return" later Lhan November, and so we must onward. Let us set down our memories, such as they are, while they are fresh. Although society in Japan is divided, as it is in every other coun- try, into high classes and low classes, classes wearing two swords, { > t1 100 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. classes wearing one sword, and classes wearing no swords at all, yet the people are universally docile and amiable. We saw not one act of rudeness, and heard not one word of ill-temper, in the country. Heaven knows that, in the arrogant assumv^! ^y foreigners of superiority among them, the people have pr. < .„ions enough for both ! One of the Japanese ambassadors to the United States in 1867 was robbed at Baltimore of a richly-mounted sword. Neither he nor his government made any complaint. Mr. Seward for- tunately recovered and restored it, with a national apology. Foreign residents in Japanese cities are often timid, jealous, and suspicious. Some are prone to exaggerate inconveniences into offences. Others are dogmatic and contemptuous. Even one of the most generous of American citizens, when driving Mr. Seward through the streets of Yeddo, could not forbear from cracking his whip over the bare heads of the native crowd. Mr. Seward endured this flourish silently, but he vehemently and earnestly implored his imi^ctuous friend to spare a litter of sleeping puppies which lay in the way. Women and children shrieked as they caught up the mangled brutes behind the carriage-wheels, but the relentless charioteer only said : "It will never do to stop for such things ; let them learn to keep their streets clear." Intimidation and menace naturally provoke anger and resentment. European and American fleets are always hovering over the coasts of Japan. Though the eye of the Japanese is long and curved, it sees as clearly as the foreign eve, which is round and straight. Human nature is the same in all races. Who could wonder if the Asiatics foil to love, where they are taught only to fear ? It would be manifestly unfair to judge the Japanese by the standard of Western civilization. Measured by the Oriental one, it cannot be denied that it excels the Asiatic states to whose system it belongs. The affections of family and kindred seem as strong here as elsewhere. There is no neglect of children ; there is no want of connubial care ; no lack of parental love or filial devotion. Nor is it to be forgotten that, in regard to domestic morals, we are giving the Japanese some strange instructions. On this very ship on which we have embarked, there is a German merchant who, after a the mountain-verj JAPANESE CIVILIZATION. 101 siiort l)ut successful career in Yokoliamn, is returning rich to hia native land; -with him his child, a pretty brunette buy, two yeais old. The father brings him to us to be caressed. We ask, " Where is the Japanese mother?" "I have left her behind; she would not be fit to bring up the boy, or to be seen hersell' in a European country." No one denies that the Japanese have both the courage and the politeness which belong to an heroic people. They are ac- cused of practising fraud, cunning, and cruelty in Avar. Arc they more vicious in this respect than other pagan or even Chris- tian nations ? Do not the records of war on our own soil contain ii melancholy catalogue of similar crimes? Are not the pages which record Napoleon's great campaigns sullied by deeds aliko unworthy of our race? The Japanese are sanguinary in civil war. Are they more so than the French were in their first groat Revolution ? The painstaking culture which extends from the water's edge to the mountain-verge ; the tedious manipulation practised in mech- anism ; and the patient drudgery of the coolies in the cities, in labor elsewhere performed by domestic animals, show that the Japanese arc industrious. Though the empire has, from its earliest period,, been isolated from the civilized world, yet the silks of that country \^-ero found among the richest freights of Venice. A Japanese bazaar is seen in every modem European city ; and there is no drawing-room, museum, or palace in the world, which is completely famished without Japanese fabrics. They have no legislature, yet they have uniform laws, and these laws are legibly inscribed on tablets at every cross-rond and market- place. Although science and literature in the West have borrowed little or nothing from these islands, the Japanese trre nevertheless a reading and writing people. We hardly know wnether Boston, Philadelphia, or New York shop-windows display greater number or variety of maps, books, charts auvl pictures, than the stalls of Yeddo, Osaka, or Miako. Japan is populous, whether we allow it twenty millions, as some of our missionaries do, or fifty millions, as the prime-minister a at t Uv. rl I 102 JAPAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. claimed in liis conversation with Mr. Seward. Neverthelci^s, nicu- dicity, thoii^di luircstruincd by law, is less otiensive than in Naples, or even in New York. It would be a curious study to inquire how and when the se- vere feudal nu)del of the middle agei4 of Europe obtained a place in Japan, or how it has continued so long among a people so mer- curial, and yet so thoughtful. While in theory the Mikado is sov- ereign proprietor, the whole domain practically belongs to ihc daimios, who are rich. The revenues of many of them are not less than the public revenues of some of the States of our Federal Union. Tiiough the peasantry are poor, we nowhere heard a complaint against rents or taxes, or the price of labor. Moreover, the Japan- ese, w^liile they encourage immigration, never emigrate. "VVe infer from these facts that, if not a' happy people, they are at least a contented one. They were a religious people when they accepted the Mikado, and gave him their reverence. They must have been a religious people, when they accepted from the Mikado the teachings of the Sintu sect ; they miiSt lur i been a religious people, when the doc- trines of Buddha supplanted so generally the dreamy mysticisms of the earlier faith. Xavier found them a religious people, willing to accept the teachings of Christianity. But the religious age in Japan has passed. Confucian philosophy has nndennined all myth- ological creeds, and left the Japanese a nation of doubters. Gov- ernment now makes no provision for the support of religious orders. Their revenues, derived from ancient foundations, are diminishing. The priesthood is as inoffensive as it is poor. It may be expected that under this toleration the Christian faith will now, for the first time, come into public consideration in Japan in the way it ought to come, that is to say, in connection with the science, literature, and art, and the political, moral, and social institutions of the "Western nations. The Japanese arc less an imitative people than an inquiring one. They are not, however, excitable concerning the events of the day, but rather diligent in studying what is useful. All their dramatic .repre&entations are didactic ; and, though they have a fondness for legerdemain, tli makes them thii The most ui: ncss of tlie ])opi mon i)eople nei the public bathi throughout the without the ri side of the Al "Concession." We have en an excursion of constraint wlii( due more to foa THE "CONCESSION" AT SlIANGnAI. lor 1 liiiiiiri' ililliilljl stipulated for an island instead of a government on the main- land ? Many American and European mereliant-sliips are riding at anchor around us, while the river near its banks is crowded with native junks and fishing-smacks, not to speak of a fleet of thirty or more high and awkward, lazy-looking, small Chinese sloops-of-war, in all carrying two hundred guns. They display at their mast- heads figured and ornamental yellow bunting enough to cover their decks. How pleasant it, is to us to recognize the United States flag-ship Colorado, sitting gracefully in the midst, as if calmly sur- veying the naval array ! We have counted her guns, though we have no need to count her stars and stripes — we know that they are all there. Our glasses have failed to discover our old friend Admiral John Rodgers, but we know that he must be there. Who else could have ordered that double line of seamen in dark blue to cheer Mr. Seward as we are passing, and that band to strike up the inspiring strains of " Hail Columbia ? " Shanghai, October l%th. — Consul-General Seward and a dozen other Americans, with kind consideration, took us from our anchor- age, and brought us by steam-yacht to the " Bund." Let no one, however, infer from this date that we have arrived in China. Shanghai, as we Lave thus far seen it, seems to us less like an outpost of the Central Flowery Kingdom, than a toAvn on our native shores. This hospitable mansion of Russell & Company, all the other houses, this quay, this street, all the streets, this bridge, these churches, these banking-houses, warehouses, and steamers, these carriages and horses, these men and women, all that we have seen on the river or on shore, are European ; for so they call here whatever is foreign, -whether it has come from one side of the Atlantic or from the other. This is, in short, the "Concession." We have enjoyed our first drive in the country, that is to s:iy, an excursion of six miles through the " Concession." Is the air of constraint Avhich the natives here wear in presence of foreigners due more to fear than to hate ? These contracted concessions, made r 1 J 4 I* 108 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. by the government to foreigners, remind one of " the liberties," so called, M'liicli were drawn round Jails in Europe and the United States before the abolition of imprisonment for debt. " You are safe within them ; we guarantee nothing outside of them." Neither party looks with pleasure on "the Concession." The foreigner wants it enlarged ; the native dislikes it altogether, AYhile writing these not very profound reflections, we were summoned to the great gate of " the Compound," to see for the first time a raandaiin procession. MANKAKIN PKOCESSIOy. It is the custom of a mandarin, when he moves abroad on social or official visits, to be attended by as many retainers as he has, or can hire. He proceeds, dressed in silken robes, in a sedan-chair, gilded maces am sible, but fiery : cians leads the ously, all beatir and deafenino; c double dignity ai of one. Falstat] the king's i^ress,' darins approache solves. We did they bowed low To our surprise, ^ Tajen, survivors ncse embassy wli took final leave o "Wot I look and wonderful ( they parted with eastern voyage ai liai on the very d navio-ation ! The pageant ] her. How absurc made the ambasj ahroad ! " Yes," deuce of the deca} tain their pride lo: Somehow it h of tlie dead attrac The peculiarity of locks, everywhere So far as wc havi CIII-TAJEN AND SU:^-TAJEN. 100 with a Gqiiare, glaring, scarlet canopy, borne by coolies, over his head. Fantastic groups go before and behind the chair, dressed in faded finery, carrying umbrellas of all forms and colors, huge gilded maces and staves, banners, flags, and pennons, incoinprelien- sible, but fiery red and ragged. A straggling company of musi- cians leads the procession, while others mingle Avith it promiscu- ously, all beating and banging on noisy gongs, clattering sticks, and deafening drums. The procession in the present case was of double dignity and importance : it conveyed two mandarins instead of one. Falstafi''8 " tattered prodigals," although he had ''misused tlie king's j^ress," were less grotesque. We thought that as the man- darins approached they appeared unbecomingly eager to show them- selves. We did them injustice. Leaning from their chair-windows they bowed low and gesticulated reverentially as they passed us. To our surprise, we recognized in their persons Chi-Tajen and Sun- Tajen, survivors of the late lamented Bnrlingame in the great Chi- nese embassy which visited the United States in 1808, and which took final leave of Mr. Seward at his residence in Auburn. "Wot I look at," said Samuel Weller, "is the hextraordinary and wonderful coincidence." Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen, since tliey parted with us, have spent two years in accomplishing their eastern voyage around the world, and they have reached Shang- hai on the very day we have arrived here in our western circum- navigation ! Tlie pageant passed quickly by, and we returned to oin* cham- ber. How absurd this exhibition had seemed ; how difierently it made the ambassadors appear here, from the show they made abroad ! " Yes," said Mr. Seward, " it is even so ; it is an evi- dence of the decay of the empire. States, like individual men, re- tain their pride long after they have lost the means to support it." Somehow it happens that, Avhcrever we go, the resting-places of the dead attract our attention before the homes of the living. The peculiarity of burial here is, that the tombs rise in great hil- locks, everywhere in the cultivated fields, and even in the gardens. So far as we have observed, the monuments arc few, cheap, and inclegant- f ] 110 JAPAN", CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Shanghai, October Idth. — Shanghai is immensely agitated con- cerning the recent massacre at Tien-Tsin. AVe find European vol- unteers, a hundred strong, drilling for defence against an appre- hended Chinese invasion of '' the Concession." Mrs. Seward, the consul general's Avife, has just presented those volunteers -svith a standard of colors. Everybody is astonished at Mr. Seward's rash- ness in going to Peking at the very moment they nnderstand that all the foreign legations there are coming to this port for protec- tion, under the guns ot their respective nations. Admiral Rodgers, with his staff, called upon Mr. Seward to-day. Although it is im- possible for the Colorado to ascend the Pci-ho to Tung-Chow, he considers it his duty to visit the capital personally, lie has ar- ranged to accompany ]^Tr. Seward there next week. Mrs. Warden, our hostess, last night had the entire foreign society of Shanghai at a ball, which, although given in honor of Mrs. Seward, the bride, had been postponed until our arrival. Gentlemen largely predominate in European Shanghai. The recent arrival of so many American ladies was deemed a social event. Our ladv-friends at home will be interested in knowiiii^ that all China furnishes not one mantua-mnker or milliner. The dresses for the ladies come on orders from Paris, London, or Xcw York. Native women have no need of European costumes. The work here of the seamstress and tailor is done exclusively by men. They come to your house and execute your commands quickly, patiently, and cheaply, and in doing so they faithfully copy every pattern you give them, and omit nothing. We arc inclined to think that the story of the American merchant Avho ordered a dozen pairs of yellow nankeen pantahxMis, and, sending as a ])at- tern a jxiir which had been torn and patched, received twelve pairs similarly patched in execution of his order, is not altogether an invention. The contrast between European and Chinese civilization was presented sharply to ns this morning in our ])assage from (»]n'ii Euro])ean Shanghai, with its ])oj)ulation of three thousand, to the native town of Shanghai, with its one hundred tlumsand inhabit- ants, shut up within a circular wall tw(}nty-live feet high, and two ■rfrl-IIIHj m '& f:i'»;i ■ IS ill ! ! ..i i, '< .■um m 'hi '' ih;ii! ' '\n m im i ''i!li 'mm nm 'i ! I'ljlillrii'l ,lM! The noil. to Cll II pit- Kiirs • an ^va^ »|ien ) the ial>it- 1 twu if) CO 0) o i "^1 ' J 112 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCIIIX CHINA. and one-tliird miles in circumference. We do not tliink that any youth of our own day, however vigorous his arm, however strong the sling or heavy the pebble he might use, could reduce that wall, M-hich was built doubtless in the time of Kublai Khan, but M'o would not answer for its standing against such an arm or weapon as that which brought down the giant of the Philistines. The town was easily captured by the English in 181:3. When Ave had passed within the gates, and saw the narrow streets, and the crowded structures, built of the most combustible materials, we wondered what can be the Chinese idea in keeping up the wall, which, in case of conflagration, must render escape imj)ossiblc. Native Shanghai, like the foreign settlement, is built on an alluvial soil, and is insa- lubrious, though reclaimed many centuries ago. This city is the seat of an immense inland trade, in which tlie tropical j)roducts of Southern China, with the hardier ones of Central China, are ex- changed over the Yang-tse-kiang and the Imperial Canal for the tim- ber, cattle, cereals, wool, and other products of Northern China, Mon- golia, Mantchooria, and Russia. The annual exports of the town exceed in value the whole mineral production of the United States. It need not be said, therefore, that its merchants are shrewd, in- dustrious and prosperous. It is marvellous how they have crowded so small an area with warehouses, manufactories, shops, gardens, theatres, dwellings, and temples. All these are built on a scale so small and mean, that, though each structure proves adequate to its purjjose, it is only a miniature model or a toy. Nevertheless, the people of the town manifested much pride in showing us their con- tracted dwellings built or exquisitely ornamented M'ith cedar and other fragrant woods, their miniature lakes filled with dwarf moun- tains which sometimes rise to the enormous height of thirty feet, and which the Chinese imagination magnifies into a range of Him- alayas. We found there, besides tea-houses vastly finer than any in Japan, numerous guildhalls elaborately ornamented, in whicli boards and other associations of merchants and manufacturers daily congregate to discuss matters of trade, and such politics as they have. With all this, there is not one street accessible by car- riage of any kind. The visitor is even obliged to leave his sedan- chair at the ga six or eight fc are so ofi:ensiv cession " warns Contrary tc not the least en ners. All his ^ dence, if not a c of the Chinama avoids here by tinually present is probable that morals and ma out that result 1 But we eschi into it again. Shanghai, C Chinese processi visited Mr. Sev diplomatic laboi Mr. Burlingame aid they had ret and gratefully oi United States, his intention of insisted that he Chinese inn, in worthy or fit to " No, no, we wil Even when we ^ come to China, •1 visit. Now, si] abroad with wha It is a disapp( China and Chine A DISAPPOINTMENT. 113 chair at the gate, and make liis way through crowded lanes at mosft six or eight feet wide. Surface drainage is used, and the streets are so offensive and disgusting that every European in the " con- cession " warns the stranger against going there. Contrary to what we saw in Japan, the native Chinaman shows not the least emulation or imitation of Western customs and man- ners. All his ways manifest a spirit of self-assertion and indepen- dence, if not a contemptuous one. "We now comprehend the puzzle of the Chinaman in San Francisco. The scenes which the European avoids here by taking refuge within the "concession" are con- tinually present with him wherever he moves in San Francisco. It is probable that the contact will work an improvement in Chinese morals and manners there, sooner than the separation will bring out that result here. But we eschewed philosophy for to-day, and here we have tallen into it again. Shanghai, October 20^A. — A renewal to-day of yesterday's Chinese procession, but with a sequel. Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen visited Mr. Seward, and announced to him the success of their diplomatic labors in Europe, condoled with him on the death of Mr. Burlingame, thanked Mr. Seward over and over again for the aid they had received from him in their mission, and dwelt long and gratefully on the hospitalities which they had enjoyed in the United States. Mr. Seward inquired their lodgings, and expressed his intention of returning their visit. They thanked him, but insisted that he should not do so. They said, " We are living in a Cliinese inn, in the old city. Neither the tavern nor the city is worthy or fit to receive you." "When he persisted, they replied : "N^o, no, we will come to you here, but we are nnable to entertain. Even when we were with you at Auburn, and you promised to come to China, we thought how unworthy we were to receive such a visit. Now, since we have compared so much that we have seen abroad with what we are at home, wo know this better." It is a disappointment to us. "What we want to do is to study China and Chinese ways. This study is the last one that can be > ,-*■' t thh «« nut •.-» f'M «:" r 1 Z- 1 »- t * u 1 K 1 ( 1 114 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. made among the foreign population of Slianghai. In that circle, Chinese affairs are generally ignored. With the exception of un occasional philanthropic observer, they talk in that society chiefly of French defeats and German victories, of London fashions, Oxford boat-races, and American inferiority to Europeans in diplomatic and consular etiquette. If they talk at all of China, it is against the Burlingame Treaty, with asseverations that it is an utter absurdity to expect any good thing to come out of China, except through blockade and bombardment. Possibly, this is an exaggeration resulting from the massacre at Tien-Tsin, and represents the tran- sient rather than the settled opinion of the foreign population. Happily this distrust of the Chinese does not affect or disturb trade. A large part of the coasting-trade of China is in foreign hands, and is conducted chiefly by the Shanghai Steam-Navigation Company. That company has built wharves one thousand feet long, which are covered with warehouses, here called " go -downs.'' From these wharves the company dispatches eighteen coastwise steamers, an average of one per day. These are chiefly American- built, and they enter all the treaty ports of the empire. How miserable the prejudices to which wc have adverted seem to us, in view of the fa i, that this immense development of foreign naviga- tion and commerce is not only permitted by the Chinese Govern- ment, but is encouraged by it ! It seems the more unreasonable when we reflect that now, after more than twenty years of international intercourse, the United States have not one griev- ance against the Chinese Government imredressed, or one demand unsatisfied. It is pleasing to meet, here, " John Brown's soul marching on."' At Mrs, Warden's ball, a colored man named Butler was received on a footing with the other guests. This Mr. Butler, who is equally modest and intelligent, is a native of Washington, and Avas born a slave of Commodore Rodgers, the father of the present admiral. He is here superintendent of the "go-downs," and charged with the entire freighting business of the Shanghai Steam- Navigation Conpany, receiving for his services a salary of four thousand dollars. SteamsJiip ^ circumstanced { which, thougli We have left M last night, Mr. ' drove us to the superintendent illumination of this magnificen steamer which r dred and fifty fe state-rooms and on our rivers an sle^p last night i before allowed u At six this II c (lo.vn the river Colorado brouffl fifteen guns. Ui board the Shan of twenty-seven ] this gallant acces Yang-tse-kiang, on the Yellow S of the north. Taking up th overthrow of the of a provisional ^ Everybody at Orleans dynasty. He answers, '• I because the coun ON BOARD THE SIIAN TDNG. 115 SteamsJdj) Shan Tung^ October 2'2d. — " Situated as -we are and circumstanced as we are," it seems to us that we arc out on a picnic, which, though it threatens to be long, promises inuch of interest. AVe have left Mr. and Mrs. Ilandall at Shanghai. At eleven o'clock lust night, Mr. Warden, whom we have found as wise as he is kind, drove us to the " Bund," where we were received by the aforesaid giiperintendent Butler, who had set ship and shore ablaze with an illumination of Chinese lanterns in honor of Mr. Seward. With this magnificent display, we were brought on board this pretty steamer which remains still attached to the wharf. It is one hun- dred and fifty feet long and twenty -four feet across the beam ; its state-rooms and cabins are more spacious than those usually found on our rivers and lakes at home, and we enjoyed in them a sounder sle3p last night than the excitement and hilarity at Shanghai had before allowed us. At six this morning- "The ship was cheered, The harhor cleared, Merrily did we drop — " f r I do.vn the river to AVoosung, where a friendly summons from the Colorado brought us to, and Mr. Seward received her salute of fifteen guns. Under this friendly fire. Admiral Rodgers came on boarrl the Shan Tung with an attendance of seven oflicers, a guard of twenty-seven marines, and the brass band of his flag-ship. AVitli this gallant accession, we have crossed the bar at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang, here thirty miles wide, and are once more afloat on the Yellow Sea, bound for the now much-dreaded colder regions of the north. Taking up the Shanghai newspaper, we read the news of the overthrow of the Second Empire of France, and the estobllshment of a provisional government at Paris. Everybody asks Mr. Seward, "Will France now restore the Orleans dynasty, or will it be the elder branch of the Bourbons ? " He answers, '• I think France will henceforth ie "^ republic, not because the country is prepared for it, but because 1; has at last ( > H 116 JAPAN", CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. both sufficiently tried and exploded monarchy and imperialism," " This," said one of our friends, " is a bold ])r(.»phec'y to make under the shadow of an empire which is iivo thousand years old, whiH the MOUTH OP THE VANO-TSE-KIANO. republic is only an experiment of one hundred years in America and in Switzerland." He replied : " The first Napoleon predicted that, within fifty years, Europe Avould either be Cossack or repub- lican. Monarchies and empires are of the past. The republic is the institution of the present and future." " By the deep, twenty -four fathoms." Deep water this, though the waves still glisten with the yellow sands of the great river. The ship rocks, and we rest. Yellow Sea, Latitude 34° 30', Sunday, October 2Sd. — Although we certainly did lose one whole day on shipboard on the Pacific, and although it seems to us that we waste much time on shore, we find nevertheless, on counting the weeks, and measuring the dis- tances, that we are moving rapidly. Only last Sunday, we entered the Yellow Sea from Japan. To-day, after a week of observation and festivity at Shanghai, we have made one-third of our long ON THE YELLOW SEA. 117 projected voyage to Tien-Tsin. Who can reckon on the seasons ? We came on board, prepared with furs and blankets, and shrinking with fear of tempests. Nevertheless, the heavens are smiling, and the Yellow Sea is smooth as Owasco Lake. The band, ])crhap8 because we arc travelling in the hemisphere of the heathen, has brought no sacred music. Happily, it has not forgotten its lessons from the opera. So wo were awakened and brought to the deck this morning by the " Dies Irce " chorus from " Faust." For even- ing we have stipulated for the prayer in " Der Freischutz." Al- though we have no missionaries on board, we have come to regard Sunday at sea as a day of rest, even more privileged and happy than at home. We have offered from the deck thanks for our own preservation as grateful, and prayers for friends at home, we trust, as fervent, as those which may be made there to-day, "for per- sons going to sea." We have just passed the mouth of the Iloang-ho — the Yellow Kiver — the second of the two great rivers of China. Steamer Shan Tung, October 24^A. — We rounded this morning the noble granite promontory Shan Tung, which is the most eastern landmark of China proper, and gives its name to one of the most extensive of the eighteen provinces which constitute the empire. It is the water-shed between the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee and the basin of the Yellow River. It is across the western end of this promontory that the Imperial Canal bears the exchanges of Southern and Central China with those of the metropolis and the ortlying prov- inces of Mantchooria and Mongolia. Besides some fishermen's huts on the beach, we saw only one structure on the promontory, a Buddhist temple. The whole coast of the promontory is held sacred in China as pertaining to the birthplace of Confucius. The appearance of a troop of soldiers winding down the moun- tain-side reminded us that the Tien-Tsin massacre has been followed by profound apprehensions of foreign war. A lonely, basaltic rock towers above the sea at the foot of the promontory — a monument that the land once came there, and that the wasting ocean has cut it off. But this monument, like all those erected by human hands, ^^ is not destinec flowing tlirong base of the proi The junk i All its timbers designed for a i and its awkwa: Ite?:. MM from all other s( On either side of asked a (Chinese pr(iui])tly replied, mjirkub'e coincid Alaska Indians never been a im CHINESE JUNKS. 119 is not destined to endure. It is already broken, and tlie sea is flowing through it. Fishing-smacks flock like gulls around the base of the promontory. The junk is an odd-looking aftair. It lies low in the water. All its timbers are quaintly carved, and it is painted as gayly as if designed for a regatta. Practically speaking, it is a double-ender, and its awkwardly-rigged and ill-shapen rudder distinguishes it - ' - .'% ^lt; 4 •1 CIIINEHK FISniMa-ajUACE. 4 > from all other sea-craft whicli have been built since Noah's ark. On either side of the bow there is never wanting a huge eye. We asked a Chinese seaman the significance of that ornament. lie promptly replied, " Junk no have eye, no can seel" It is a re- niiirkab'e coincidence that not only the boats but the houses of the Ahiska Iiulians are furnibhed with eyes. Althougii China has never been a maritiuie i)ower, and is not likely soon to become U 120 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. one, it has an internal na\Hlgation wliich has never been and never can be equalled elsewhere. Personal coincidences thicken. This morning, one of the marines communicated to Admiral Rodg3rs, through the offices of William Freeman, that he was not unknown to Mr. Seward. The admiral promptly instituted an inquiry, which resulted in the marine's coming to the quarter-deck, and being recognized there by Mr. Seward as a soldier who served on the escort which attended him through Alaska last year, and that his knowledge of Mr. Seward had begun in his having been put on guard at his house in "Washington, on ilie night of the President's assassination. Need we say that he was glad to renew his acquaintance with one who had been a defender on two such memorable occasions ? Steamer Shan Timg, October 26^A. — Bearing westward from Shan Tung, we after some hours entered the harbor of Chee-foo, nearly surrounded by hills. Thus far we have seen nothing sub- lime, nor even any thing picturesque in China. The northern shores are only more pleasing than those about Shanghai, because they are slightly elevated and slightly undulating. Naked and barren at this season, one might well mistake the region about Chee-foo for the California coast. The United States war-steamer Benicia saluted us as we entered the harbor, and her officers came on board. Chee-foo is one of the last-opened ports of China. The foreign settlement numbers only one hundred. The native population is variously estimated at twenty-five thousand to eighty thousand. The agent of the Steam- Navigation Company received us on a well-constructed stone wharf, and has entertained us in the kindest manner. We have made an excursion in chairs to an eminence that overlooks the town and harbor, and found there a ruin, but were unable to deter- mine whether the structure was a temple, an observatory, or a watch-tower. From its dilapidated walls wo counted two hundred vessels of all sorts and sizes anchored in the bay, although Chee-foo confines itself exclusively to the coast-trade. In this trade, pressed tea prepared for the Eussian market in the form of bricks, and scarcely more native grape c China, but no Descending beach. Chee-f of Cliina. The which was buil The gentlei and been furnig the beach. Th tanced by the c( to learn that th( gees, suitable fo We left Che. we " caught it." sand-colored. 1 ridges thirty or continually in tl; steamer rocked, friends who wen they counted tw another in sixt^ Lieutenant Whe waggery. But i made this solem nearly in articu Seward, with fee stanchions at th packed, wedged, Mr. Seward, " is of yours ? " " ]S usual gravity, ' " Captain," said this ndliiiir a cl captain, " she on of the Colorado' A STORM AT SEA. 121 scarcely more mitritious, is tlie chief article. A large and delicious native grape cultivated here is highly esteemed in all the cities of China, but no wine is made. Descending the hill, we enjoyed the walk on the smooth sand- beach. Chec-foo is a summer resort of foreigners — the Newport of China. The bungalows, however, are now vacant. One of them, which was built by a missionary, cost ten thousand dollars. The gentlemen of our party, having recovered their land-legs, and been furnished with stout native ponies, made a scrub-race on the beach. The admiral, " who carries weight for age," was dis- tanced by the con ^1-gencral. Our friends at home will be pleased to learn that the whole party furnished themselves here with pon- gees, suitable for wear in the tropics, at twenty-five cents a yard. We left Chee-foo at eight in the evening, and at eleven o'clock we " caught it." As we kept near the coast, the sea was shoal and sand-colored. A strong land-wind arose and blew the water into ridges thirty or forty feet high, and our course obliged us to travel continually in the trough. The wind increased to a gale, and the steamer rocked. How she did rock! Those two of our naval friends who were left in a condition to do any thing, declare that tlicy counted twenty-four rollings of the steamer from one side to another in sixty seconds. It must be confessed, however, that Lieutenant Wheeler and Mr. PlUsbury arc somewhat suspected of waggery. But it muct also be remembered that, at the time they made this solenm declaration, they supposed themselves to be very nearly in articulo mortis. Only the admiral kept his feet, Mr. Seward, with feet braced, being lashed in his chair to strong iron stanchions at the centre of the middle deck. The ladies were packed, wedged, and wadded in their berths. " Admiral," asked Mr. Seward, " is this rolling and tumbling a customary experience of yours ? " " No," answered the admiral with not less than his usual gravity, " this vessel has a motion entirely unknown to me." " Captain," said Mr. Seward to the master of the Shan Tung," is tills rolling a chronic habit of your ship ? " " No," replied the cai)tain, " she only practises it in the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee." Most of the Colorado's marines, and all the musicians except two, were 'it '4*1 31 122 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. helpless. Notliing that ■was loose remained in place; furniture, trunks, bngs, and boxes, bundles of pongee and baskets of Chee-foo grapes, went sliding and jamming and imnching, backward and forward, and every way, until our pretty dancing-room gave a heterogeneous clattering worse than a seance of the Davenport brothers. In all this noise, confusion, and danger, it may well be imagined there was no sleep at night, no breakfast in the morning, and no lunch at noon. The storm abated and the sea began to subside at three o'clock. At four, the good admiral required such of the musicians as were sound or convalescent, to play selections of Oifenbach, by way of enticing sea-sick passengers from their state-rooms. But even "La Belle Ilelene" and "La Grande Du- chesse " alike failed in this sad and trying emergency. There was neither talking, nor dining, nor wining, until we dropped anchor at nine o'clock in the open roadstead of Taku. Here in that road- stead we are now, waiting for the tide to carry us over the bar at the mouth of the Pei-ho River. There is little show of commerce about us. As yet we see no land, and only a dozen vessels, like our own, riding at anchor. We are having a first experience of cold. The mercury has fallen to 50°. Ten o'clock. — Wc have li- jd. The pilot has come on board. The musicians are p\'iying their notes, and we are writing up ours. We ho]ie that nie dance which we have left for that purpose will keep on till the tide changes. Mouth of the Pei-ho, of Rivers. — Cliii Tlic City of Tiei inals.— A Messer Pei-ho Rive morning, havin, draws twelve fe have come safeb native cities of Europe in Chinal selves to us. ll tied. Tiiough til have proved vel wliich prevent til hundred and fif| iwui make. Thj possible for us tliroiigh whicli y\ a population of more busy villad consists of thro business is the A deposited in larl cliannel is crow( CHAPTER V. UP THE PEI-HO RIVER. Mouth of the Pei-ho. — Chinese Forts. — American fJuns. — The Most Crooked nnd Moan of Rivers. — Chinese Dogs. — A Misunderstanding. — Captain Wang. — Our Flotilla. — Tlic City of Tien-Tsin. — A.^pect of the Country. — Our Boat Life. — Absence of Ani- mals. — A Messenger from Peking. — A Chinese Trcder. — Tung-Chow. Pei-ho li'iver, October 27th. — We passed the bar at three this morning, having only twelve feet water, while the Shan Tung draws twelve feet four inches. Thanks to the sandy bottom, we have come safely over. With the exception of our peeps into the native cities of Shanghai and Chee-foo, we have so far only seen Europe in China, N^ow China and the Chinese have opened them- selves to us. Taku is the outer port of Tien-Tsin, and is forti- fied. Though the works are not remarkable for construction, they liiive proved very eftective defences by reason of the marshes wliich prevent the near approach of an enemy. We counted one hundred and fifty guns in position, some of which are of Amer- ican make. The forts seem not strongly garrisoned. It was im- possible for us to ascertain whether the wide-spread settlements through which we passed after crossing the bar, and which contain a population of half a million, are one great city, or a hundred or more busy villages. But we learn that, statistically regarded, Taku consists of throe villages, Taku, Siku, and Sangku. A leading Inisincss is the trade in salt, which is made on the sea-shore, and embark this evening. Meanwhile, Mr. Seward, with the admiral, has been entertained with an inspection of the Ashuelot. S«j»r-il «5i,.- '■• «*'■ if »:•;■■ =f. ten o. <-« K! r ^ 1 c ■1 «■■ I CmXESE DOOS, 126 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Tlie foreigners in China have not forgotten, among the humani- ties, tlieir interest in the canine race. Dogs of every kind have come on board, as if appreciating the sympathies of civilization — the Newfoundland dog, the Australian hound, the Russian blood- hound, and the universal black-and-tan terrier ; but, far prettier than all those very familiar friends, arc a pair of spaniels, purely bred from Chinese stock, which have come in the staff of the Rus- sian consul-general. They are small, and of a pinkish-brown, without a black hair. There is a tradition that Charles I. received the progenitor of this race, in England, as a present from the Em- j>eror of China. It is that identical dog lying on the hearth-rug that Horace Walpole describes as a " plumy wreath." Ten o'clock at night. — " The best-laid schemes o' mice and men Gang aft aglee." The boats did not come to time. This afternoon a chair was provided for Mr. Seward, and a Mongolian pony for each one of the suite who chose. This animal, like our Canadian pony, has great strength and endurance. Supposing that the plan for the ex- cursion was fully understood by all, Mr. Seward went ashore and sat down in his chair, on "the Bund." At this moment, some one asked Mr. George F. Seward if he were going to ride. He an- swered, " No." On this, the inquirer informed Admiral Rodgcrs tliat Mr. Seward was engaged, and would not ride. The whole party at this moment galloped off, leaving Mr. Seward sitting in his chair, surrounded by his eight coolie bearers, not one of whom spake or understood a word of English, They waited for orders in Chinese, which, although Mr. Seward could give in English, there was no person to interpret. At the iirst turn in the road, the equestrians looked back for their chief. He was not there. Inquiry being made, the admiral answered that Mr. Seward was not coming out. This satisfied them for the time, but on further reflection a doubt arose whether he had so capriciously changed his purpose. So the whole party, under apprehen rescue. They fc pressing on wit] Wii&fanxjMs, wi tombs and nogle which stretches river. The wall French invasion. a glacis twenty f( sures, which imp that the work w( Ingh estimate of be, the glacis fur through the j^ara martello towers. The Chinese 1 know how to imp Attracted by masi plain to examine and overlooking i verted into a po' one. Miles arour Adieu, Shan your Teelierche di certs and balls, yo and your tuniblii Captain Ilawes? Hail to tliee, squadron, with tl tow-rope ! Hail, "V^iatever perils a least against a wal Shall we dcscr registered the vest dimensions, and, t one cabin, less tha THE PEI-IIO SQUADRON. 127 under apprehensions for his safety, returned on their track for a rescue. They found him at a distance of half a mile from tlie Bund, pressing on "witli liis eight coolies and a mounted guide. After this faux j)as, we passed over a broad plain covered with crumbling tombs and neglected graves, and then came to a high outer wall, which stretches across from the Chinese city to the bank of the river. The wall was erected during the last combined British and French invasion. It is an earthwork with a narrow, shallow moat, a glacis twenty feet wide, and a frail parapet with frequent embra- sures, which impart to it an ornamental effect. The admiral says that the work Avonld be of no use as a defence, but he has not a high estimate of Chinese military science. However that may bo, the glacis furnished us a delightful ride, with beautiful vistas, through the parapets, across the bastions and under the crowning martello towers. The Chinese know as well how to utilize their temples as vre know how to improve our churches for hospitals in time of war. Attracted by massive portals and high outer walls, we crossed the plain to examine a Buddhist temple, standing on a slight elevation and overlooking the river. AVe found it had been long ago con- verted into a powder-magazine. Certainly the place is a fitting one. Miles around it is one vast suburb of the dead. Adieu, Shan Tung, with your morning martial promenades, your recherche dinners, your quiet card-parties, your evening con- certs and balls, your rollings, your pitchings, and your groundings and your tumblings ! When shall we see another seaman like Captain Ilawes? Hail to thee, flat-bottomed boat number four of the Pei-ho squadron, with thy single main-sail, thy four poles, and thy one tow-rope ! Hail, Captain Wang, and your meek and patient four ! "Wliatever perils await us under your conduct, we are insured at least against a watery grave. Shall we describe the flotilla? The admiral has numbered and registered the vessels, one, two. three, up to fifteen. They vary in dimensions, and, though coarsely, are all stronglv built. Each has one cabin, less than five feet wide at tlic floor, and one raised bunk 128 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. beliind it for sleeping-room. It has cost some care to distribute among the boats a party so hirge and so very much mixed. Num- ber one leads. It bears the Stars and Stripes, and carries the United States consul-general, Mrs. Seward, and their Chinese ser- vants. Number two, without colors, bears the tM'o other ladicis ; and number three is the flag-ship of Admiral Rodgers, his secretary, and servants, and floats the national ensign taken from the Colorado. Number four, under a broader flag, carries Mr. Seward and tiiu BOATS ON THE PEI-HO MVEB. faithful Freeman. It is the largest ship in the fleet, thirty feet long, and twelve feet beam. Of the whole fleet, only number four has a stove, and this is borrowed from the Ashuelot. Its cabin, there- fore, is our writing-room. Wang tells us this boat is an inheritance from his father, and has been in constant use flfty-four years. Number five carries Mr. Middleton and Mr. Eodman ; numbers seven and eight, officers of the admiral's stafl"; number nine is the dining-room of the party ; numbers ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, and fl and baggage. Each boat 1 forward deck, m closed with upj and full of ere^ The boat has a cabin-door, on m upon a bamboo-i resort to poles, selves to the ban ing the towing-1: on the other en nessed, they dm coolies, and we and charges, six daylight, and nii: Our naval fri the party use the eacli other. The navy-rations, and AVe started a^ the shipping, on the foreign vessel save the Queen, anthems. The fi their flags, and was not doubtful Peking, at this j free from danger. The sorpentin cityofTlen-Tsin, mounted with w. densely inhabited is stated to us her estimate it at half THE CITY OF TIEN-TSIN". 129 fourteen, and fifteen, have on board, the band, the marines, stores, and bagfgagc. Each boat has its sunken cabin with a dark liohl under the forward deck, M'hich is occupied by the crew. The cabins are en- dosed witli upright slabs, removable at pleasure. They are old and full of crevices, and exclude neither the rain nor the cold. The boat has a single mast forward of the cabin and l)eforc the cabin-door, on which a small cotton sail is rigged with a single reef, upon a bamboo-spar. When the wind does not serve, the boatmen resort to polos. When they grow tired of this, they betake them- selves to the banks, which are neither paved nor graded. Attach- ing the towing-line to the top of the mast, they nniko a loose knot on the other end, and throw it over their shoulders. Thus har- nessed, they draw the boat up the stream. Each boat has four coolies, and we pay for the whole voyage, including all the costs and charges, six dollars a day for each boat, if we travel only by daylight, and nine dollars if we travel day and night. Our naval friends have a mess-boat of their own ; the rest of the party use the dining-room. Of course, these parties entertain each other. The musicians and the marines are supplied with their navy-rations, and the coolies take care of themselves. AVe started with a fair wind this morning, and, as we passed the shipping, our band made the acknowledgments we owed to the foreign vessels, by playing first " Hail Columbia," then " God save the Queen," the " Mfirseillaise," and all the other national anthems. The friendly ships and the consulates on shore lowered their flags, and gave us cheers and encouraging salutations. It was not doubtful that the gallant officers regarded our ascent to Peking, at this painful juncture, as an adventure not altogether free from danger. The serpentine voyage of three miles brought iis to the Chinese city of Tien-Tsin, enclosed within a stone-wall forty feet high, sur- mounted with watch-towers, and four miles in circuit. Suburbs, densely inhabited, crowd the river on both sides. The population is stated to us here at a million and a half. Travellers gen-jrally estimate it at half a million. "We may well accept the higher figure, (4 « ^% 130 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. for such a scene of crowded tliouunctunlly at ten o'clock, and it is by no means safe or pleasant to clanibei over the decks from one to the other. Novemhev Isf. — The November which Ave have dreaded has met us here in China, just as it would probably have come down on us if we had remained at home. Its breath, often cold and clammy there, is no warmer or drier here. In four days we have had not one gleam of sunshine. We might well imagine ourselves on the St. Lawrence, so similar is the vegetation of this sandy ]ilaiii. One beautiful feature, however, of the St. Lawrence is missinir here. Instead of the gorgeous autumnal forest, we have only a few scattered leaves, and those pale-yellow or colorless. AVe have to- day added fifteen coolies to our marine. Mr. Sewar his crew quic tinguished thi notice that sto' dangerous luxi Tung-CJiou to say, a peric mounted mess the Eussian n gratulations. aware of our i taking hold up« haven durini; tl which the grea sun at last reler cheerful. The men and boys, tering wooden- blouses — all pai suggesting man tense curiosity As they peep ai boats, staring w and complexion They arc never the motive, the_ Every manner < cabbages, and ca of the customer ]iasteboard quiv from it instead longe each otlie l)n)wn bird, sin; seeming a recon to a gentle pure AT TUNG-CIIOW. 135 Mr. Seward's cabin has jnst taken fire, but Captain AVang and his crew quickly dropped their buckets into the river, and ex- tinguished the flame. Travellers who come after us may take notice that stoves on the Pei-ho are not only an expensive but a dangerous luxury. Tung-Chow, November 2d. — At a distance of six miles, that is to say, a period of four hours, before the end of our voyage, a mounted messenger, coming from the United States nunister and the Eussian minister at Peking, met us on the river with con- gratulations. In the middle of the dark, rainy night we became aware of our arrival at Tung-Chow by the noise of our tackle taking hold upon the bank. We saw nothing of this long-desired haven during the night, though the unintelligible jargon of a crowd which the great arrival attracted rendered sleep impossible. The sun at last relents. The scene this morning, though grotesque, is cheerful. The nocturnal crowd has swollen to a dense mass of men and boys, all wearing large, broad-brimmed straw hats clat- tering wooden-soled shoes, and thickly-padded and quilted blue blouses — all parts of the costume showing the efl'ects of wear, and suggesting many changes in past ownership. They manifest in- tense curiosity to learn the secret of our large and inqwsing flotilla. As they peep and peer through every aperture and crevice of our boats, staring with narrow, wondering eyes at our strange costume and complexion, our toilet has not been made without difticulty. They are nevertheli ^ quiet and respectful, and, whatever may bo the motive, they seem desirous to please, to serve, and to oblige. Every manner of small trafiic is going on among them. Bread, cal)bagos, and cakes, were sold or gambled for according to the taste of the customer. A " va2:rom"-lookincr fellow flourishes a painted pasteboard quiver, and turns it u])side down, and chopsticks fall from it instead of arrows. Condjative sparrows and canaries chal- lenge each other through their cages, and a boy carries a ])rctty brown bird, smaller than the oriole or the mocking-bird, and which, seeming a reconciled cai)tive, sings sweetly out a merry invitation to a gentle purchaser. < 1 » ;| r ' 4 ■■J *' a '■■ 1 I • i u 136 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCfllN CHINA. The Pei-ho forms a basin thirty or forty yards wide, wlnqh is here crowded with little junks or boats, most of which are used for dwellings. The town stands on a terrace which rises gently from the river. There is no dock, wharf, or storehouse, on the bank be- tween the river and the terrace. The uncovered sewage of the city has worn the sloping bank into channels, and between these chan- nels are promiscuous deposits of merchandise and heaps of compost, all alike prepared for shipping. The houses on the terrace are low, but many of them have quite large courts. Their fronts are covered with fanciful sign-boards. At a bend of the river before us rises a lofty pagoda of seven stories ; the first structure of is form which we have seen. We wonder that it is not more extensively copied in the West, and especially why it is not adopted in place of our unshapely and cheerless light-house. The name ixigoda is in common use, but dagoha is in use also. A distinction is made, however. AVlien the structure is small, and is enclosed in an area with a temple, it is called dagoba. On the other hand, when it stands by iisolf, itj design is for ornament more than use ; it is then called pagoda. A learned Chinese authority tells us tl.at every structure of the kind, whether pagoda or dagoba, contains relies of some saint or martyr. Say what men may, there is a power in gilded epaulets and buttons. Our naval friends, strong in that power, opened an easy way for us through the inquisitive multitude ; but, in climbing the slimy bank of the terrace, we encountered an obstacle which neither gold lace nor buttons could displace. This was a caravan of thirty laden camels, in single file, as they always move, just beginniny- their long journey over the steppes of Russia to Moscow. The imperturbable beasts, tliickly covered with long, scraggy hair, trod firmly but slowly with their spreading, padded feet, lleaching a terrace, we were as yet only in a suburb. After many eflbrts, wo were obliged to give up the exploration. Every street is a dcc|i. broad gutter, now rendered impassable by mud and rain. We re- turned to tbc front, and contented ourselves with looking into llie dwellings and shops. The occupants wore neatly dressed, seemed intelligent, came out of their doors, and saluted us, tenderiiitf their hands ar us, with a po! dered by dwc we are from ti hanging on tl of the globe. Moscow, and IS with sugar crj cigarettes. Tl numerating bal all neatly and spectable assist us his pretty i " chin-cliinned ' then read on h is at once one ( the sale of teas i dining-room on Every thing has and sedan-caair array on the bai Americans, besi( ants. Captain \ on low donkeys cavalry display, uur chairs for Pc A POLITE CHINESE. 137 their hands and inviting ns to enter. One, quite distingue, bowed us, with a politeness that was Irresistible, into a wide cpurt, bor- dered by dwellings and shops. He indicated a knowledge that we are from the West by pointing to a Russian chart of Europe, hanging on the wall. On this we made a rough Mercator sketch of the globe. lie at once marked on it the sites Tung-Chow, Moscow, and New York. He served delicious tea, quickly prepared, with sugar crystallized into rock-candy to sweeten it, and Russian cigarettes. Then he showed us his money-scales, strings of cash, numerating balls^ bills of exchange, receipts, and books of account, all neatly and carefully arranged. He called in his tidy and re- spectable assistants and clerks, and with special ^Jde introduced to us his pretty son and heir of six years. "VVe were bowed and " chin-chinned " by our host with his whole family and retinue, and then read on his sign-board inscriptions which told that the place is at once one of entertainment for travellers, and an agency for the sale of teas in the Russian trade. We breakfasted in ou? naval (lining-room on the river at eight. It is now eleven o'clock. Every thing has been brought ashore, and has been packed in carts and sedan-cnairs. Ponies, nmles, and donkeys, stand in formal array on the bank, for the whole party, which numbers forty-seven Americans, besides Chinese servants, drivers, waiters, and attend- ants. Captain Tilden, on horseback, and his tall marines mounted on low donkeys, make, it must be confessed, a rather ludicrous cavalry display, but perhaps not ineffective for China. We take our chairs for Peking. 1.1 r I:.:'* CHAPTER YI. ARRIVAL AT PEKING. Passing tlirough Tung-Chow. — Good Behavior of the People. — The Road to Peking. — A Dangerous Highway. — Daniel Webster and Jolin Adams. — A Review of Our Party. — A Grotesque Procession. — The Eastern Gate of Peking. — The Separation of the Party. — Anxiety for Mr. Seward. — In Woful Plight. — An Explanation. — Arrival at the U. S. Legation. PeTcing, Novemher 3d. — The Government at Peking, apprised of Mr. Seward's coming, had sent forward two intelligent mandarins to attend him to the capital. These officers at Tung-Chow sent up a messenger to report the array and progress of the partj, in order that arrangements might be made for its safe and proper entrance into the city. "What could be more gratifying lo our national and perfonal pride than the prospect, thus opened to us, of a kind and dis- tinguished reception ? We took our way up the shelving levee, hut without a road or path. We went a long distance down and across the ditches, which teemed with noxious vapors arising from the vegetable merchandise and offal of the city. At length our man- darins brought us up from the river's edge into bustling lanes, varying from five to twelve feet wide. The population gathered to see a procession so unique, and probably to them imposinir. After a full half-mile, we descended into a broad ditch, filled with water reekingly offensive — a treacherous path for pedestrians, but Chinese chair-bearers, like Chinese beasts, are sure footed. AVe passed through an arch, under a high wall, which stands on tlie bank of a moat ing the city ii inner side of tl than eighty th( getting throng] the gates and i low, cheap, an experience, ho people betrayet to the Chinese understood Mr his white hair, we do not kno\ him, as he pass( ing from the fa] distant, some sa road, built threi wide, and tweni inundation. T blocks four or fi These blocks W( clamps, so as to elements have 1 that it cannot b( with comfort an through the san this dangerous "Admiral R side by side on Mr. Webster wi '' Mr. Webster st iug, ]\[r. Adams a very old house landlord does nd " this road give I have seen in ( ADAMS AND WEBSTER. i;39 bank of a moat. We should have thought that wc were now leav- ing the city instead of entering it, if the ditch had been on the inner side of the wall. The city contains within the walls not less than eighty thousand inhabitants. Hours must have been spent in getting through it, had not a military or municipal force met us at the gates and cleared the way. The streets were lanes, the houses low, cheap, and closely crowded together, as at Tien-Tsin. Our experience, however, in passing, was particularly pleasing. The people betrayed nothing of the hate and jealousy which arc ascribed to the Chinese by the Europeans in the open ports. "Whether they understood Mr. Seward's public character, or were impressed by his white hair, white Thibetian great-coat, and black Thibetian cap, we do not know, but the entire population, young and old, saluted him, as he passed, with unmistakable signs of veneration. Emerg- ing from the farther gate, we came on the direct road to Peking, distant, some say, twenty-five miles, others say twelve miles. This road, built three hundred years ago, is an embankment forty feet ■wide, and twenty feet above the plain, which is always subject to inundation. The whole width has been paved with hewn granite blocks four or five feet long, two feet wide, and eight inches thick. These blocks were originally jointed closely and fastened with iron clamps, so as to leave no crevice or unevenness of surface, but the elements have long since deranged and disloeated the pavement, so that it cannot be travelled now either by wheeled vehicles or animals with comfort and safety. The horsemen and tarts prefer to flounder tlu'ough the sands and mud of the plains below, rather than to try this dangerous highway. "Admiral Rodgers," said Mr. Seward, as they kept their chairs side bv side on this road, " did vou ever hear of the interview of Mr. AVebster with John Adams, the day before his death ? " " N"o." " Mr, Webster said to the old statesman, ' How do you do, this morn- ing, ]\[r. Adams?' 'Not very Avell,' he replied; 'I am living in a very old house, Mr. Webster, and, from all that I can learn, the landlord does not intend to repair.' " So," continued ]\rr. Seward, " this road gives mo a more painful impression than any thing else I have seen in China — it shows that the Government has no inten- »•; Wi % I 1 140 JAPAN, CIIINxV, AND COCHIN CHINA. tioii to repair." The road might be restored as perfectly as before, simply by reversing the blocks, and bringing them together face downward. A clear field now allowed us to take a review and cen- Bus of our party. The advance-guard consisted of twelve Chinese infantry. They wore metallic caps in the shape of Mambrino's helmet, torn by the hand of Don Quixote from the head of the caitiff barber ; the caps fastened by long, yellow tassels. Their uniform consisted of blue nankeen trousers and tunics, on the back of which was a white circular groimd, bearing the inscription in large, black Chinese characters, " Valor." Next came, or, rather, tried to come, a guard of twelve United States marines on foot, but the nimble-footed chair-bearers crowded so closely on them that the entire body took refuge in the rear. Kext followed the four chairs of Mr. Seward, the admiral, and the ladies, M'itli a mounted esc(jrt composed of the gentlemen of the party, civil and military. Then the musicians and seamen mounted promiscuously on horses, mules, and donkeys. The sailors found it equally difficult to keep their seats on tlu; ponies, and their feet above-ground, when riding tlio donkeys. We could not count the baggage-carts, which, under tlio care of AVilliam Freeman, and the protection of a guard f marines, brought up the rear. Having prudently determined not to shock the sensibility of the Chinese by any display of banners or musical instruments, we came along quietly without accident or incident, until, at a distance of a few miles from Peking, we rose upon the fine arch ?d bridge of Palikao, where the battle memorable iu the M-ar of the rJlies against China was fought, and in which the lately-dismlsocd "VVar Minister of France gained his title. Here the native guard halted and ranged themselves at the side of our cortege., presented arms, and, taking respectful leave of Mr, Seward, returned to Tung-Ch av. When we had passed the bridge, the sedan-chair occupants, as well as the horsemen, wore seized with a mutual desire for change. The success of either party was not brilliant. The chair-riders, victims of misplaced confidence, tumbled over the heads of the donkeys, and the cruppers of the mules ; the mounted party spilled out of the chairs. The country through which wo passed shows A CniNESE FU^TERAL. 141 less a neglect of cultivation than a dilapidation of estates. Half- way on the road, we met a grotesque procession. First, came a band of thirty or forty boys, dressed in scarlet and yellow^ whom we might have mistaken for clowns, bearing staves with fantastic badges of authority. Next, a band of musicians, displaying equal luxury of color, banged and drummed on instruments unlike any thing we had ever seen. Then came an enormous eatafulque, pagoda-shaped, mounted on wheels whose axles just escaped the ground, the exterior covered with scarbt clotli, richly trinmied with gold lace. Within was an elaborately-carved coffin. The vehicle was rolled forward on the rough road by eighty bare-legged coolies. The rank of the dead determines the number of such bearers. Preceding the car was a mournfully-dressed, sad-looking little woman, holding up before her a large, painted wooden doll. This figure represents the wife of the deceased, and is to be buried in the grave with him, as her proxy. The procession showed to us more courtesy than funeral-processions ever show at home — it opened and halted to allow the chairs to pass. At last, after five hours' tedious and painful travel from Tung- Chow, we obtained a full view of the great Eastern Gate of Peking, rising above monotonous suburbs, not unlike those of Timg-Chow. Here the pathway on the plain below the embankment was a smooth, dry sand. How could Miss Seward resist the temptation to exchange her chair for a fine Arabian horse, which Mr. Low, the ITnited States minister, had sent down, and so make the entry into the Chinese capital in a suitable manner ? The ride was exhila- rating, and perhaps excited the envy of the less fortunate members of the party. She was attended by two friends, one gentleman on horseback and anoth'-i* on a donkey. The procession reached the suburbs in tolerable order, but here the amusement of the journey ended, and its difficulties and sorrows began. The worn- out paved road, instead of keeping high and dry on the embank- ment, sank fifteen feet below the level of the streets. It had been raining continuously in Peking for three weeks, and the sunken road-bed was covered with mud knee-deep. Villanous Chinese carts, going both ways, crowded the entire path, obliging not only m>. >« » t1 142 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. the eliiiirs, but the equestrians and pedestrians of tlie party, horses, mules, donkeys, and all, to pick and find their way on the broken, shelving, furi'owed, crowded and every way obstructed bank, be- tween the houses and the road-bed. We do not know how nor where the little mounted party last mentioned fell under the guidance of a mute Chinaman on a strouij, fast horse. Pointing, however, to his red cap, either as a mark for them to follow, or as a badge of his authority, he hastened them forward and onward. Only for a short time they saw theii* friends in the chairs coming on, but falling more and more behind. They passed under the great Eastern Gate, too much terrified to study its architecture. They turned into a narrow lane, then by a zigzaf* movement into anotlior, at times crossing broader streets whicii were obstructed with carts, booths, merchandise, and theatres; then again into lanes, dark, deserted, and ruinous. If any one can conceive an obstruction not described, it may be brought into tliis picture. Now they climbed steep, slippery embankments, dashing and splashing against stone posts, sign-boards, and booths, scatter- ing angry passengers, then pitching into nauseous, muddy pits. They not only lost all idea of courses and distances, but also lost sight of our whole column, and were effectually lost by them. It required intense and watchful effort to keep the saddle. Wliat could all this mean ? "Was the mute Chinese guide a decoy, lead- ing into an ambush? "What could be the motive in brino-inj; a stranger and a woman there ? If not a decoy, why were they led by a course so blind and tortuous ? AVhy were they separated from Mr. Seward and our gallant defenders? Perplexed with anxiety for themselves, and even greater anxiety for Mr. Seward and his friends, they halted and beckoned to the red-capped conductor for a parley. Mr. Middleton rode back as nearly as he could over the way he had come, in search of "our absent friends." He rejoined them after a period which seemed an age, and reported that Mr. Seward, nor the admiral, nor man nor woman, nor beast nor baggage, nor any other thing belonging to the party, could be found. Meantime crowds, which their imagination swelled to the entire population of the city, gathared around them in that woful plight. Well might tlicy be " in w tion," for, as i and their case was not one v cliecring or ei The mute siffi than this. On are remembere a train of loadt ing at Tung-Cl ward, nor give They grazed ali a wonder how i foot. The oth( temple, which, high above an ings, only variec as it seemed, de now only anxio cicerone, far in the notes of the mounted compa turned a high v spacious open c thirty-seven star tude was even e Miss Ilisley aire he described it, rated from them at once lost all guide except tl Ticn-T.sin, and a veycd by a route by tiie other por and dangerous other times, ac A DISAGUEEAHLE RIDE. 143 they be " in wonder at their case, and be perplexed at their condi- tion," for, as the Arab historian says, "their state was woiiderfn], and their case was extraordinary." Among all these crowds there was not one woman, nor was there a man or boy, who gave one cheering or enconraging or sympathizing word, glance, or sign. The mnte signed to move on. Manifestly, any phice was safer than this. Only two subsequent incidents of that distracted ride are remembered : the first, that in a narrow street they encountered ft train of loaded camels as long as that we had seen in the morn- ing at Tung-Chow. These would move neither forward nor back- ward, nor give room on the right or on the left to let them pass. Tiicy grazed alternately the walls and the beasts, and it is even now a wonder how they escaped being dismounted and trodden under foot. The other incident was a momentary glimpse of a stately temple, which, with blue porcelain roof and gilded dome, towered high above an unbroken expanse of low^, mean, and vulgar dwell- ings, only varied by intervening heaps of ruins. They then plunged, as it seemed, deeper than before into miry pits and squalid masses, now only anxious not to lose sight of the red cap of the mysterious cicerone, fiir in advance, and at the same time listening to catch the notes of the tinkling bells for reassurance that their donkey- mounted companion was not lost. At last, and all at once, they turned a high wall, and entered through a substantial gate-way a spacious open court, over which was waving the constellation of thirty-seven stars and its thirteen red-and-wliite stripes. Their grati- tude was even greater than their surprise at finding Mr. Sew-ard and Miss Risley already at the legation. Ilis adventurous journey, as he described it, had been even more poi-plcxing than theirs. Sepa- rated from them and from the rest of the party, he, like them, had at once lost all knowledge of both, not knowing that he had any cuide except the two mandarins who had accompanied us from Tion-Tsin, and who now trod along side of his chair, as he was con- veyed by a route entirely d liferent from those which had been taken by the other portions of the party, and equally narrow, obstructed, and dangerous. At times, he jostled against camel-caravans ; at other times, against motley, hurrying crowds; now crossing a i t ti 144 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COrillX CHINA. muddy moat, then scaling the slippery <;lac'is of a t'ro\vnin<; bastion, he oceasioually had a glimpse of the admiral's chair, or Miss Kis- ley's, or of u mounted uuiriue or musician, but these invarial)]y crossed his track, or were going in an opposite direction, lie had his thoughts and his anxieties, lie now said he could never f(jr- give the admiral, or the naval otMcers, or the consul-general, who had suii'ered our carefully-organized and well-armed procession to be broken into fragments, and scattered through the lanes, alleys, and ditches of the semi-barbarian citv. While we were exchanginir these explanations, the remaining fragments of the party, civilians, officers, nuirines, and baggage, not forgetting trusty Freeman, more frightened than all, came so rapidly with their chairs, horses, mides, and donkeys, into the court-yard, that the arrival seemed almost simultaneous, as it certainly was of one accord. We soon found out, but not without much inquiry, how it had come to pass that our entrance into the capital, conirary to our ex- pectation, was so irregular and disorderly. The Chinese Govern- ment is at this moment profoundly anxious to prevent a renewal of the popular commotions which have recently culminated in the tragedy of Tien-Tsin. They had been informed, by the messenger whom the mandarins dispatched from Tung-Chow, of the construc- tion and organization of our party. They had stipulated with Mr. Low that our band should not ]>lay along the road, or in the streets of Peking. They had, moreover, cautiously sent forward a com,pc- tcnt number of mounted guides, wearing red caps, with instruc- tions to break up our formidable procession at the Eastern Gate, and to conduct each portion by a different route through the most quiet and obscure parts of the city, to meet only at the legation. Mr. Seward now declined, with many thanks, the invitation of the Eussian minister, received before he left home, and we became guests of Mr. Low, who, with true Californian hospitality, would allow no member of the party to find a home outside of the lega- tion. Wearied by the tedious boat-journey from Tien-Tsin, and the fatigues and anxieties of our grand entry into the Chinese capi- tal, we unanimously waived the wassail, wine, and music, oftered us at the legation, and retired to an early rest. Asiiect of Peking. — \ ican Chinese, — '. 'J'lie Britisli Legi Sen aril's Aiulien A Cliinese Mansi Pel'ing, I^oi for table dwell in < long secretary a was occui)icd by it would have be it for the United nor any other pi economically bui After the re need say little o is about one m streets are broa( of highest activi St motions, alwa^ giisting. There exception of an Many of the na stone posts, set preventing intru CnAPTEK YII. RESIDENCE LV PEKLVG. Asjicct of Peking;. — Walk on the Wnll. — The Foreif;!! Population of Peking. — Two Anier- iciin Ciiineso. — Native Wares. — The Foreiji;n Ministers. —The Russian Minister.— The British Legation. — Influence of the I'uited States. — The Hall of Seienee. — Mr. Seward's Audience with the Imperial Cabinet. — A Ladies' Day. — Chinese Ladies. — A Chinese Mansion. Pehing, Novemher Mh. — The legation is the spacious and com- fortable dwelling which was built by the eminent Dr. AVilliams, so long secretary and interpreter, and not unfreqiiently cJiarge. It was occupied by Mr. Burlingame, and Mr. Seward now agrees that it would have been wise, when it was practicable, to have purchased it for the United States Government. There neither is in Peking, nor any other place, a building so suitable, nor could one be more economically built. After the relation of our experience in entering the city, we need say little of the general aspect of Peking. Tlie population is about one million. Differing from other Chinese cities, its streets are broad enough, but dilapidation and ruin mar the scenes of highest activity, while the roadways are everywhere full of ob- structions, always ill-looking, and sometimes nauseous and dis- gusting. There are no sidewalks — seldom a pavement. AVitli the exception of an occasional private lantern, there are no lights. Many of the narrow streets are rendered impassable by upright stone posts, set irregularly in the street for the very purpose of preventing intrusion or passage. Except in the imperial grounds, it' 3t tl 14G JAPAN, ClIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. there arc no gardens and no fountains, statues, or other monuments — only compact masses of dwellings aud shops, low, old, and mean. The weather is cold, damp, and dark. A visit from General Vlangally has been the incident of the day. The prevailing agita- tion resulting from the Tici:-Tsin massacre is the chief subject of conversation. Mr. "Warden, at Shanghai, and Mr. Low and Di\ "Williams, here, appear to be almost the only persons in China who take a rational and statesmanlike view of the political situation. " We must take a walk to see the city," says Mr. Seward. '' There is no walk in the city," answers General Vlangally, "except on the city wall." " Very well," replies Mr. Seward, " then let us walk on the city wall." PeMng^ November 4, 1870. — So here we are — on the city wall — not the outer wall, nor yet the innermost wall, but on an interior wall which divides the city of the Tartar conquerors from the Chi- nese city, and at the same time looks over the innermost wall which encloses the city where the emperor resides, which is therefore called the " saci'ed " city. "We have reached this commanding eminence just at the hour when the morning sun is lighting up the snow- clad mountains which bound the vallev of the Pei-ho in the M'est. It is cold, out, with furs elsewhere superfluous, and exercise quite unusual, we can bear it. The legation, where we reside, opens on the bank of the now dry moat, Mliich lies at the foot of the wall. The wall is thirty feet high. AVe have walked several miles on this elevation, looking down from the parapets on the scene around us, and have wondered at the numerous gates, all lofty, nuissive, and graiul ; have counted the thousand towers, bastions, aud ram- parts ; surveyed the walls of the outer and inner cities ; have con- tem]ilated their watch-towers, garrisons, and arsenals ; and have shrunk back from an estimate of the numl)er of the gilded ])ala(cs and tem])les. It avc remember, wo recorded yesterday, before coming ui> liitlier, that Peking is a most unsightly and wretcliod city. It seems to us now, although walled cities are uufamiliiir to our ex])erience, that Peking is the onlf city, we have ever seen, euliiciently majestic to be a seat of empire. u a. u u h (J) u 1^ 148 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. True, these walls, built six liundred years ago, have failed to protect Peking against the allied forces of Great Britain and France, and they are confessedly useless for a defence in the mod- ern system of warfare. But, like all the castellated and ecclesiasti- cal structures of the middle ages, they are sublime and impressive. True, even outer walls cramp the growth of cities, while interior partitions and subdivisions must have an unwholesome effect and be otherwise intolerable. But the castellated walls of the middle ages are none the less imposing for all this. The walls of Peking address themselves no longer to the reason, but to the imagina- tion. Xo Chinaman, unless in military or civil employ, and no Chinese woman under any circumstances, is allowed to go upon the walls. Why do a people so jealous allow foreigners this privilege ? It is allowed because they insist upon it. Could there be a stronger evidence that China wearies and gives way before tlie ever-increasing importunity and exaction of the "Western nations^ "We now recall the fact that it was stated by Mr. Burlingame, nt Auburn, that this concession was first made to himself and Sir Frederick Bruce. Unhappily, a closer inspection of the wall and its accessories enables us to see that much of its impressive effect is derived from artistic imposture. Arsenals, capacious enough for the ordnance of the Washington Navy- Yard, contain only a few awkwardly- mounted guns. Painted cannons in the embrasures are substituted fur real guns. In China the national flag is never seen singly. There are always double flag-staffs. Each gate-way has a rampart to ]M'e- vent the direct approach of an enemy. The wall is an eartlicii embankment twcnty-flve feet tiiick at the base, the outer flue coverc(l with large, hard, gray bricks, easily mistaken for hewn stone. During the day the gates are wide open, and there is im indiscriminate c(»mmingling of the populations of the Tartar .iiid the Cliinese cities, undistinguisliable at least by strangois. \vt BiU'h is the power of habitual jealousy that the gates are ]ior('ni])- torily and absolutely closed from sunset until sunrise. A deiii/i'ii of one city left in the other at the closing must remain until nii»ni- FOREIGN POPULATION" OF PEKING. 149 ing. We look down easily into the interior city, the residence of the emperor, and thcr2tbre "the Prohibited." Its gates, like the others, are open during the day, but they are carefully guarded, and none but the privileged residents are allowed to enter, except by special order. The palaces bear no resemblance in form or structure to the royal dwellings of the West. They are spacious, and, being covered with yellow tiled roofs, and elsewhere showing a commingling of light yellow and green, they have an appearance of newness or recent repair which is in strong contrast with the outer city. The " Prohibited City " is divided by a wall into two areas. In one of these the emperor resides with his family, while the other is open to the ministers of state. AVe may have an opportunity to look more closely into this latter area. The brick facing of all these walls is giving Avay. The culverta under them, besides many parts of the fortitications, are dilapi- date J, and the moat is either altogether dry or only partially filled with stagnant pools. We have come down from the walls. "What is the foreign population of Peking? Pid you say five thousand? Two thou- sand ? One thousand ? It is only two hundred — diplomatic min- isters, clerks, attaches and retainers, and missionary ministers, all told. Mr. Seward has held an audience of the whole to-day. Each legation occupies a closed area, a "compound" assigned by the Government for that purpose. Only a narrow lane divides the legation of the United States from that of Russia. Two Chinese were announced this morning. Thev came in very costly native attire, shaven, wearing the pig-tail, and their feet cased in white-soled mandarin boots. To our surprise, they accosted Mr. Seward in English, calling his recollection to an acciuaintan.'o with him in the State Department at Washington. Surprised at this, he excitedly asked, how and where they had learned the English language so well. "Is it possible," they answered, " that yon mistake us for Chinese ? "We are your own 'jountrymen, aiul yon saw us in service when you visited Fort Corcoran on Arlington Heights." These two ufticers have with great adruitness been engaged by an American mercantile house in 11 i 150 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Cliina to acquire the mandarin languai^e, to enable them to act as ao^ents in trade. On arrivinj^ at Peking for that purpose, they 'ssumed the Chinese habit, and, abandoning for the time all foreign Bociety, they coniined themselves exclusively to Chinese inns and Chinese society. They say they have done this with so much success that they have never been detected by the natives, except when surprised in making their toilet. The natives they meet with often say that their Chinese is imperfect, but they suppose it to be a dialect of Thibet or some distant province of the empire. Of course, we must not disclose their names. Our band of music, having been released from its durance, has played for every foreign minister, who came to visit us, the na- tional air of his own country. It has cheered us at lunch, and awakened the echoes at the elegant dinner given us at the Eussian legation, and it ended by giving the spirited dancing-music for the soiree with which the day has closed. It is the first foreign band of music that has ever come in time of peace to Peking. The nov- eltv attracts native crowds, but excites no ill tcmner. Pcl'lng, l^ovemher t^ih. — Deep concern this morning nt finding the earth covered with snow, seeming to demand an early depart- ure southward. The morning was s]icnt in studying and cheapen- ing the M'arcs brought by native mer- chants, and spread over all the floors of the legation — bronzes, porcelain, jasper, jade, amethysts, and emeralds, wrought into the most curious shapes — sea-otter, sable, Thibet ian goat, As- trakhan, wolf, white fox, red fox, bear, panther, and tiger skins. Wc shall not report our bargnins, further than that we bought a lapis-lazuli cat for two dollars, lor which the merchant's first price was twenty-five dollars, and llint. Mr. Seward retired in disgust from the trade when his otlcr of five dollars was taken up for a lignum-vitn? box, for which the vendor had all day demanded fifty dollars. As far as the furs arc con- cerned, our friends at home, to whom we send the purcliases, will LAriB-tAZULI CAT. judge. Let tl staple vegetabL of Peking, If the continent. It is remar favored perfect manufacture of brought into usi of woollen fabi among the poor and quilted. Sii The class a litt with the wool oi dresses in fur — t lu's robes of sabi Alaska. The 1 largest purchaser N'ovcmher 1)1 political rather worked out her( at Veddo. It lirofligate retair. is generally und tlie world. V,\ Ali'airs at any ca Would express it, Mi\ Seward hav iiiairic ri„rr read! 1^'king is rather ; is ffoi/en. Dkstin a aeious, costly, and elegant residence, and an imposing 'personnel. Besides four secretaries and a surgeon, it maintains a Greek chapel, open to native converts, and a Cossack guard, with extensive stables. The German legation has nioro moderate appointments. The minister, IJaron Rehfues, is respected for his largo ex])erience. The British representative, Sir Iluthcr- ford Alcock, is absent. His place is tilled by Mr. AVade, against whom there is a universal outcry, among the foreigners in China, for his supposed tameness in regard to the matter of the Tien- Tsin catastrophe. lie is, nevertheless, a wise, learned, ])rudcnt, and practical minister. Mrs. AVade, a daughter of Sir John llcr- schel, is very intellectual, liberal in her opinions, and earnest, in her admiration of American institutions. During the social banishment she has endured here, she has successfully acqniicd the ditScult mandarin dialect. The British Government is lavish toward its legation. The residence was purchased at large expense from one of the imperial princes, and repaired last year at a cost of one hundred and twenty-live thousand dollars. The legation maintains a chapel, fom* secretaries, six di[)lomatic puj)ils, nnd a strong military guard. The French legation has Count Rochcfort acting as charge iTqf aires. Far less discreet than our cxceHcnt friend Berthemy, or his predecessor, De Montholon, who M-ere so acceptable in the United States, Itochefort has proved himself vehement, impetuous, impracticable, and inconstant in his reclama- tions on the occasion of the massacre of the French consul and nuns at Tien-Tsin, while the military disasters which have just overtaken France at home have rendered her representative here powerless. The Danish and Belgian missions arc oidy occasional, and little more than nominal. Their incumbents are accredited to Japan as well 'is to China. The Dane took leave of ns at Yeddo, to repair to Peking before us, but has not yet arrived. Mr. Low, the United States minister, is a very able man, of much equa- nimity, enjoying e([ually the coniidencc of the Chinese Govern- ment and that of the diplomatic corps. The appointments of this legation, like those of the United States elsewhere, arc moderate. Frederick the Great hardly practised greater parsimony in forcigu diplomacy than chapel, nor sur^ secretary, who ii in Japan, we he of our national tinually of Russi ascendency at 1 ated. The arch during his reside than anv or all of this prestige. Mr. Yan Valkenl surpassed in cons tivcs in Japan, in cither country arcs of local adm Ih-itain. There : fnm the prestige They appear in just and magnani fairness in politic! demand no advaii powers. Russia, China, but a colo^ existing between of the border prj tion. Moreover,! her railroads, dill that, while the frf thelcss prove a pc The proGiige the European Coj the influence sluj Hults. This com I factnrcs whi(di ar^ Great Britain, tin THE FOREIGN MINISTERS. 153 (Ul)lomacy than our Government does. Mr. Low has neither chapel, nor surgeon, nor official dwelling-house. lie has one secretary, who is also his interpreter, and no guards. TIere, as in Japan, we hear our countrymen lament an alleged inferiority of our national importance and influence. They complain con- tinually of Russian ascendency at Peking, as they do of Britisli ascendency at Yeddo. The grievance in each case is exaccer- ated. The archives at Washington show that Mr. Burlingame, (luring his residence here, exerted a greater influence in China than any or all of his colleagues. Xor has Mr. Low lost any of this prestige. So also Mr. Townsend Harris, Mr. Pruyn, and Mr. Van Valkenburgh, as well as Mr. De Long, have not been surpassed in consideration and usefulness by foreign representa- tives in Japan. Nevertheless, the influence of the United States in cither country is far less distinguishable in the shaping of meas- ures of local administration than that of Ilussia or that of Great Britain. There is sufficient reason for this, without deroeatinff fr^ni the prestige of the United States^ They are a distinct nation. Tlicy appear in China, as they do in Japan, in the character of a just and magnanimoup. power. They oft'er little but equality and fairness in political, commercial, and social intercourse, and they (Icinand no advantages that are not equally conceded to all other powers. Russia, on the contrary, is not only a near neighbor of China, but a colossal one. The commercial and political relations existing between them are various and intimate. The populations of the border provinces of the two empires have a close assimila- tion. Moreover, Russia advances nearer to China every day with her railroads, diligence-lines, and telegraph. The Chinese know tliat, while the friendship of Russia is invaluable, she may never- theless prove a powerful, if not fatal enemy. The presiige of Great P)ritain throughout the world, even on the European Continent, is derived chiefly from the ^dominion and the influence she wields in the East, and the commerce which re- sults. This commerce, again, is the essential support of the manu- factures which are the basis of the prosperity of the English peojile. (ireat Britain, therefore, wisely spares no care and no cost in main- r ■■■■% k ^ 1 1 154 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCIilN CHINA. INTE taiuinu^ not only a diplomatic force, but a naval prcdominanco, in the East. India, China, and Japan, are her proper theatre. In this great national policy she necessarily encounters rivalry and resistance. She has appeared in China more than once as an enemy, and proved her power, as well to destroy as to protect and save. It suits her interest to be here now as a magnanimous friend, like the United States. Long may the two nations remain in that accord ! November 1th. — "We have just come from a visit to the for- lorn "Hall of Sciei '«." T!;e Church of Rome has been perso- ANOIKNT OBSERVATORY, Oil HALL OF SniBNOB. verinf? in its attempts to Christianize China, but lias left tlioro, thus far, only monuments of its failure. One of them is the Ob- servatory, otherwise enllod the "Hall of Science.' The jjroat Protestant Reformation in Euro]ie was, as every one knows, fol- lowed by a hardly less remarkable reaction and revival of tlio Roman Catholic Church originating in the inspiration of Ignatius Lovola, and coi founded. In : of the Tartar ci superintendence They procured i nomical instruir suggested, and c These instrumei out any protect years, are still One of them i the constcllatior astronomy as it astrolabe, an ar and quadrants, which attended the Jesuits, here tlicy were dismi care of native pi base of the Obs the two or three rcct the cnlenda for the almanac marriages, barg; Novemlcr 8 given to ]\Ir. Cabinet (Yanioi izc, arrange anc " none but tlic mandarins dose are allowed to suits their com color indicative I lodgers, the T their seats in g INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 155 Loyola, and conducted chiefly by the Society of Jesus which ho founded. In 1080, the Emperor Kan-^-IIi erected on the wall of the Tartar city an observatory, conunittin^ its construction and superintendence to Jesuit professors, with a niuniticent endowment. They procured in Paris, Venice, Genoa, and London, bronze astro- nomical instruments, the most perfect that science had at that time suggested, and of stupendous magnitude and niagniticent execution. These instruments, set up in the open air, and thus exposed with- out any protection against the weather one hundred and ninety years, are still in perfect condition, and as available as at lirst. One of them is a celestial globe, seven feet in diameter, with the constellations raised upon it, showing the exact condition of astronomy as it stood two centuries ago. Besides this, there are an astrolabe, an armillary sphere, trigonometers, transit instruments, and quadrants. Although the institution remains, the circumstances which attended its foundation have entirely passed away. AV^hej. the Jesuits, here as in Japan, betrayed the ambition of the Churc^^, they were dismissed and banished. The institution fell under the care of native professors, by whom it has been neglected. At thr base of the Observatory is a shabby suite of apartments, iu ^ iiich the two or three native professors dwell, whose business it is to cor- rect the calendar of the seasons astronomically, while they designate for the almanac the days which are lucky and unlucky for births, marriages, bargains, journeys, combats, festivals, and funerals. K 3 Novemler Sf/i. — The event of the day has been an audience given to Mr. Seward, M'ith Admiral Eodgers, by the Imperial Cabinet (Yamcn). It required great skill and much care to organ- ize, arrange and m.ount the party. If, among the AVestern nations, *' none but the brave deserve the fair," so, in China, none but great mandarins deserve to ride in chairs, and only princes and ministers are allowed to ride in green chairs ; and this, not because green suits their conq)lexi- had disphiyed in his negotia- tions with the United States, and of the fricndshij) he had ahvavs manifested toward onr country. These words, like Mr. Seward's previous inquiries, were taken down and reported to Wan-Siaui^ by a courier, and elicited a similar reply. Thu ministers 8[)oke witli much fcelinij of the death of Mr, JJurlingamc. Mr. Seward said that Mr. Uurlingame's diplomatic career was an illustration of tlio higliest possible success. A minister lives always under two dis- tinct and sometimes irrcconcilablo obligations : First, ho must retain the confidence of his own country ; secondly, be must not fail to win the confidence of the country to which he is accredited. Mr. Burlingame filled botli obligations, and thus was enabled to unite the two nations in a new bond of peace, and in a common ell'ort to advance civilization. Tlio ministers thought themselvos under obligations to Mr. Seward ; in the first instance, for the a])- pointmcnt of ^Mr. IJu'-lingamc as United States minister to Chin;), and then for receiving him us minister of China to the United States and Europe. Mr. Seward iiupiired the number and functions of the " I'annor- men." The ministers reidied : " They are four distinct legions, con- taining many thousand men. They all reside at Peking. Tlioy are sworn to maintain and defend the emperor in all conflii'ts, whether at home or abroad, and in compensation for this service they all receive stipends from the Government. Ihit tl)o organiza- tion of the legions is worn out. The service is a sinecure, costly, and useless." Manifestly tlie ministers feared that the apologies for the absence of Prince Kung from the reception might be thought by Mr. Sew- ard insincere and evasive, for they returned to the subject contin- ually, lie assured them that, although he had during eight years conducted the diplomatic, relations of the United States with China, yet in all that time not one case of procrastimition or subterfuge, on the ])art of the regent, had occurred. Mr. Seward hoped for the prince's speedy recovery, and begged the ministers to be at their case about the present disappointment. The sonioi dressed Mr. S( solemn stage Ml". Seward's i national proce entered the arty : "■Perpetual peace, prosperity and welfare to China and the Fnitcd States, the oldest and the youngest of empires. The visitors rose, and, after the most respectful and cordial bow- ing and hand-shah ing, were dismissed. The procession reached the legation at a very late hour. We have not heard whether it stood any more firmly on the order of its coming, than it did on the "order of its going," as the gentlemen had no time to report be- fore sitting d»nvn to Mr. Low's dinner, the great diplonuitic enter- tainment of the season. Kovonlci' dth. — Three months today from Auburn. Xot a word yet from home. ]\[r. Seward has sent a telegram by courier one hundred and eighty miles to Kiakhta, on the liussian frontier, 102 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. there to be put on the Russian wires. How much more have we seen and learned, in these three months of foreii>n travel, than we could have seen and learned within the same period of travel at home ! A messenger has come to the legation with compliments to Mr. Seward, and a polite inquiry whether his reception yester- day was agreeable to him. They desired him to know that they never unbent themselves so much to a stranger as they did to him on that occasion. This has been especially a ladies' day. Yang-Fang, pawnbroker by ])rofession, mandarin by rank, one of the three richest num in Peking, was cdncated at Shanghai, where he had some opportnni- ties of seeing the Wistcrn mode of life, lie is dcsirons of cnlti- vating the ac(|uaintancc of foreigners here so far as he can do m» withont exciting Chinese suspicion of his loyalty. Jle tenderctl ;in invitation to the three ladies to visit his familv. The invitiitioii was communicated confidentially, and with tlu; condition that tiny should be attended by only two gentlemen, neither ol" whom should be an oflicial person. The ladies went nt ono o'clock to-day, in THE LADIES VISIT YANG-FANG'S WIFE. 1G3 (losely-covcrcd chairs, tlirongh familiar streets, until tliey turned into a narrow and uninvitini;; one. There they stopped at the ijatc of an outisido wall, one of many gates of the same kind. Thi-ough this gate they were ushered into a paved court. Ascending three or four steps, they entered a second gate. The mandarin received tlicm there with his wife and five handmaidens who wore waiting, and led them through a corridor. This ceremony over, the wife led the party to lier boudoir. This room is furnished with a curious combination of luirojjean and Chinese styles. A Brussels carpet, ^ \ Hit 'P'"- : ^ ;.:• " ,/ t' | Wire OP TANO-FANO. (FROM A fllOTOOBAlMI DY HIMSELF.) •m 3 1 lialf a dozen mirrors of difTerent sizes, with gilt frames, ])ictnrcs of flic V(»semite valley, a French dock, a barometer, a small Ameri- can sewing-machine with a crank, two chairs covered with red clotli, Chinese divans, a French bcdsteiKJ with curtains, French kiiick-knacks, but no Chinese ones, rows of porcelain vases, and [Kits filled with chrysanthemums, an juiuarium with gold-tish, a black cat, six finely-bred spaniels, and a monkey, made the comple- ment of this singidar apartment. The visitors, taking seats on the Knrojiean sofas, and the Chinese ladies on the divans, excliangccl cciupljmcnts as well us they could, the American ladies trying to ? 1 164 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. recall tlie instructions tliey had received from CIii-Tajcn at Auburn Next the Chinese ladies took tho watches, gold chains, bruc; u'^«!, uud foreigr ring.^, and inspected them carel'idly. At the same time fi\( V ]>at into tlie hands of their visitors their own ornamenl.-, jH'aj'ls, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and amethysts. After this the ladies of the house examined the American hulies' dresses, hats, and gloves, marking well the fashion and material, and in a gentle and unaffected way ofiered to inspection their own richer and more elegant costumes of silk and embroidery. The wife is a xt coi apartment, the g a e(»vered table, i caned Chinese lit' chemical, phu of European mai tirst the English uliich has the exi k'ss variety and and one of the w others busied tlu entertainment, m ladies, with theii iiiadt" of Turkish silver ])i{)es. Tin liliiwn out of the visitoi's ti'ied to ii nothing, hut iaui ('ndeav(»red to a( .-poke to them as mandarin imj)i-i Kui'opean euston vi.-it, and then >h These have onlv llo even c<»nes. The smoke was Inhaled through water, and invariablv hjdwii (lut of the nose. Being well ]irovided with inter])reters, the visitors tried to iiuhu'e conversation. The Chinese ladies answered nothing, but iaughed at every thing the guests said. They then •nileavored to acconinuxlate themselves to their entertainers, and -poke to them as to i-hihlren, but with little more success. The iiiaiidarin improved the o])portunity to express his admiration for Kurojieiin cu,stoms. lie thanked the ladies for the honor of their visit, and then showed them all the other apartments (»f the house. These have only stout^ floors, and the rooin^^ are without furniture. Ho even ( onducted them to his oj>ium-sm».king room for guests, 'vitli its carefully ]>re]tared kang and j.iiiows tor reclining upon wlun the delicious intoxication comes on. The ladies, of course, 12 W \ 1., •%^ •a I \ m» ' IGO JAPAN, CIIIXA, AXn COCHIN ( IllNA. (11(1 not iiulnluc. The UKUularin nitni-mcd tlicm that lie does ii(,f practise it, and on this occasion the nse of the room was h)st. Tlir mancUirin, beini; a proticient in photography, displays iiictures ul' YAVH-I \S(. S •^VIuKIMi-l'.imM his Avifo and handmaidens thronj^hont the honse. In one room there is a disorderly collection of Chinese hooks. In ^^oin;;' throu«ih tiie mazi' ofaitartments, the ladies, liearini,^ the loud chirping of a cri 'kct, stoi»ped. Thereupon oin* of the woincii hronirht out a wl.ite-silk bag from her piu'ket, and t(H)k from it i small, e.\oo-l)o.\,and, opening it, showed \\> iu.i ])et cricket, which closely resi-ndiles the American grasshopper. Tin- tiirhtiniT of cri( kets is a favorite annisement of the Chinese la. A ratlie;' (Ugh li-i-jron Ei:gli>li puinj», standing again>t tin' wall, attracti' 1 th;: atr» idiitn of the visitors, and they inquired it> use. The mandari:; .-iai !. " It is set u|> to extinguish accidental tiro, and I j>ut the women uiiked upon it with disgust. The house cunsiots Kji' no less than twenty disfincit huiMiiiiis A ClIINKSE MANSION. H >< with rc(l-aii(l-ycll(t\v verandas, all coiuu'ctcd In* two vci-v irroL''ular corridors, oiu' nliovo llie (ttlicr, which tui'ii mid twist uj> and down throiin'h crvtoked little staircases, luidi-r arches, around s(|nare pil- lars, in and out ot" all sorth of dark holes anle of Heaven, the Temple ot the Earth, ami the Temple of the ^looii. To the materia! heaven they ascribe all powei', and from it tlu-y claim that the cnipeiNir. a- vicegerent, derives all authority. As Heaven made not only China. but the whole world, so the emperor as vie egerent nt»t only govern- the empire, but is rightful ruler oi' the whole earth. The TeiiipK dl' Heaven, in \\ or, if there is su( national one — nu is a national chin (»f France, or St. China what Solo stands in an enclc (l.»me, ty])ical of eiilar altar consist and twenty feet, t diameter. In thii by that ceremony nicitt of the who drapery of the ski b'.aith of Peking, { in dejiendence be Heaven, invoking ings in peace. I) similar thonle is held as sacred hy the Chinese as the Caaba at Mecca liy the Mohammedans. Mr. Seward was desirous to visit it. All the foreign ministers assured him that the i)opular prejudice against pnil'aning the temple, even by the intrusion of the Chinese them- selves, is so great that no ministry could dare open it to a foreigner. Xot long ago, however, there was a place broken in the outer wall, over which some adventurous travellers have entered. We set out to cx])lore, thinking it possible we might elfcct an entrance through that breach. On the way we took notice that the present regency has sold all the imperial elephants, and that the stables are falling into decay. We found the imperial avenue in ruins, so that no ir r ii > t r. » tl 1 t % % f* JW. 1 ITO JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. elcpliiint-car or otlier veliicle cduM bo di'iveii over it. Wc made our way on foot ami in cliiin's. Arriviii> the Temple of Heaven, and, as vice- o'crcnt (»f Heaven, shall break tho earth with a plough, sow it with seed, and imploi pro])itiou> rain ami s\inshine, and plentiful harvest. These fmictions being celestiil, the riglit to perform them cannot l)u delegated, and so they are tor ihcj present suspciuled during tlu' minority of the em])eror. Tlu! j)resent emperor is yet only thirteen years of age. Several years ha\':;ig elapsed since the deatli of the last nu)narch, the tem])le and its appurtenances exhibit neglect and ruin, such as are not likely to occur on the show-grounds of our airricultural fairs. A large portion of the grounds is covered with cypress-gi'oves. a growtli of more than five Imndred years. The groumls and even the roads are overrun with coarse, rank grass and weeds. The wild- thorn made fearful havoc with our clothes, and we ivcpiired to be continually on our guard against nettles. In an open s(piare of half an acre is a circular platform (»f stone, with a marble balus- trade and a staircase, which is guarded by the figure of a dragon. On ceremonial occasions, a thi'one is placed in the centre of this ])latform under a gorgeous blue canoj^y. Here the emperor alights fn '11 Ills palanquin, and takes his seat in solitary pomp. Directly opposite, at a distance of thirty feet, is a similar jdatform wliich is occupied by tlie imperial family. Proclamation being made, tlie oni])oror leaves the throne, and makes a solemn jjrogress, followed by his family and ministers, to a temple some two hundred feet distant, which may be eighty feet square and lifty foet high ; against the inner wall of this tenq)lc a dais is raised twenty feet, and upon it is a throne, the same which the late emperor occupied at the last celebration. Over the throne, in large characters, is this legend : I"' W ^ n i y I 1 I •-3 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) h V 1.0 I.I 14^128 |2.5 :^ lAfi 12.0 UUu IL25 1 1.4 2.2 1.6 /A >% ^j^- /■/ '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 ^^ V iV "o^ >^ ^ ^ "9) £,^ 172 JAPAX, CnmA, AND COCHIN CHINA. "We praise the God who taught men to sow, and who gives tlieiu the harvest." Altars with vases surround the throne. "Wlien the emperor Lii.s been seated for a time, he rises, and, standing erect, lifts his Iwuds in adoration, and amid the clouds of incense invokes the blessiiiiis needful for his people. This part of the ceremony concluded, the emperor then M'alks to a distant enclosure of perhaps eight acres. Here, upon another throne, he is attended by the imperial fomily and the whole court. New proclamation being made, the emperor advances into the field, and with his own hand on the plough drives it until one acre of soil is upturned. This done, he scatters the seed. Princes of the imperial family and distinguished members of the court follow, and in like manner plough and sow the remain- der of the field. After this, the emperor, with his family, court, and ministers, repairs to a platform on the opposite side of the field, TABLBT HALL. on which is ( makes a bun tlie God of 1 Ila^-ing i of the Tern- edifice, on i of the Win( Grass, and th ward conduc in which plac arched passa^ they are butc pared for the ofierings are I in which, aftei mals, and all t ants engaged i On our wa canopied orato a dwarf, the o stature. The is copper-color^ white. The cc can black. T] ilians. This si fierce, wooden and barrel, corn Three thou mighty spake d on the western Lord thy God. slialt not make thing tiiat is ir that is ill the Wf down to them, jealous God." THE EMPEROR MAKES BURXT-0FFERING8. 173 oil Avliic'li is erected a large altar. Here, in the presence of all, he makes a burnt-ofi'ering of oxen, sheep, goats, and other animals to the God of Agriculture. Having surveyed these more prominent places in the area of the Temple of Agriculture, we next visited a great central ediiice, on the walls of which arc tablets dedicated to the God ot the Winds, the God of Thunder, the God of tlie Green Grass, and the God of the Green Stalks of Grain. "NVe were after- ward conducted to a sunken place, paved and walled with stone, in which place the sacrificial animals are kept. We saw here the arched passage through which they arc driven, the yard in which tliey are butchered, the immense platform on which they are pre- pared for the altar, the huge furnaces and kettles in which the offerings are burned, and finally the oven, as large as a city bakery, in which, after the sacrifice is completed, all the refuse of the ani- mals, and all the garments and vestments of the priests and attend- ants engaged in the sacrifice, are reduced to ashes. On our way out of the temple, we stopped before a curious ivy- canopied oratory, within which stand the shrines of three gods, one a dwarf, the others larger, the three differnig in complexion as in stature. The right figure, the God of the Sea, bears a trident, and is copper-colored. The left figure is the God of Rain, and is pure white. The central figure is the God of Benevolence, and is Afri- can black. The Chinese divinities are always attended by guar- dians. This singular group rejoices in the protection of a huge, fierce, wooden soldier, armed with a veritable musket, lock, stock, and barrel, complete. Three thousand three hundred and sixty years ago, the Al- mighty spake directly to a portion of the human race then residing on the western shore of Asia, " these words, saying, I am the Lord thy God. Thou shalt have no other gods before me. Thou slialt not make unto thee any graven image or any likeness of any thing that is in heaven above, or that is in the earth beneath, or that is in the water under the earth. Thou shalt not bow thvself down to them, nor serve them ; for I the Lord thy God am a jealous God." i i ; 174 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. The nations wliich have establislied themselves between tliu Mediterranean shore, on which these words were si)o]cen, and the eastern side (if the Pacific Ocean, have accepted and obeyed those awful commands, and have built a common system of civilization npon them. But the dwellers here on the eastern coast of China liave not accepted either the idea that God is the Creator and Supreme Director of the Universe, or that he is One God, or that he is a jealous God. It is not to be understood, however, that the national mind of China has made no struggles to lift itself above the dead level of materialism. We proceeded from the Temple of Agriculture to visit one which is a monument of such a struggle. This is the Te.nple of Buddha. The founder of the Buddhist faith did in- deed reach the sublime truths expounded by Moses, that God is spiritual, One, and jealous. But he could not hold fast tij that exalted truth pure and simple. That taith, therefore, while it accepts Buddlia as the Supreme Creator of the Universe, teaches at the same time that, by various processes, occupying long spaces of time, he becomes and remains incarnate on the earth. This impersonation, bearing the name of the Grand Lama, resides in Thibet, veiled from all mortal eyes but a purified and sacred priesthood, which priesthood has its societies and orders throughout China and all the East. It is a subject of curious re- ilection that, as, in Europe and America, the nations uniformly derive their revelations and systems of faith from the East, so, on the eastern shores and islands of Asia, they with equal confidence claim to have received their religious revelations from the West. The Buddhists have two great temi)les at Peking—one in the Tartar city, the other in the Chinese. It was the former which wo visited. It consists of several immense edifices, which in the seven- teenth century were the residence of an emperor, wdio becoming an adherent to that religion surrendered his palace to the conmiunity of Buddhist bonzes, and dedicated it to that form of worship. The principal structure, built of brick and stone, is capable of holdinij; three thousand persons ; the roof is supported with columns of cedar brought from I>irmah, eighty feet high. A gigantic wooden statue THE TEMPLE OF BUDDHA, 17.-) of Buddha towers from the floor to the roof. Its carved drapery, while it leaves the form distinct, conceals the entire person except the huge, jet-black face, fingers and toes. According to the tradi- tion of the sect, the living Buddlia in Thibet had, at the time of his incarnation, eighteen most saintly apostles who endured all manner of trials and worked all manner of miracles. These eighteen apostles, carved in wood, sit cross-legged in a circle around the great idol, gazing at the soles of their feet, supposed to be an atti- tude of divine contemplation. Vases of incense stand before the (rod and each of the saints. The images are so far from havinii: anv spiritual expression, that the faces of all, including that of Buddha, are simply inane. All around the temple arc shrines, each of which supports a diminutive female figure carved in bronze. Each of these figures represents the virgin mother of the incarnate r)uddha. It is not without probability that theologians suppose that this idea, now universally held by the Buddhists, analogous to that of the Madonna, is a modern innovation derived from some early inculcations of the Christian Church. Certainly the similarity is remarkable. One of our fellow-travellers at Shanghai bought a hronze image of the mother of Buddha, with an inftir.t in its arms, which, on examuiation, we concluded to be an antique figure of tlie Virgin Mary. These statuettes to-day are carefully draped in bright yellow silk, the thermometer having fallen last night to 32°. AdmM-al Rodgers will verify another curious ornament which arrested our attention in this temple. It is a picture which hangs against the inner wall, and presents a view of the Last Judgment — a celestial figure pronouncing sentence, the doomed descending into a fiery abyss, the blessed rising into regions of felicity. It is so like the conceptions of the middle ages, that the picture might have been a study for Michael Angelo in the Sistine Chapel. There are a thousand bonzes in the monastery attached to this temple. They surrounded us on our way through it. Though they wear a yellow uniform, they are ragged and unclean, and appear in the last stage of mendicity. We shrank from too close a contact with them. Tliey are ignorant, idle, and lazy. They seem to have no efficient ecclesiastical superior, and to be amenable to «s -to 176 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. no public opinion. In these respects they contrast very disadvan- tageously with the cleanly, neat, and courteous bonzes whom wc saw in Japan. Although a daily ritual service is read in the temple, it everywhere exhibits the saddest evidences of neglect and dilapi- dation. After so broad a study of the practices of idolatry, we were now prepared for the more pleasing ones of rationalistic institutions. Escaping from the mendicant throng, who followed us to the outer THE TEMl'LE OF OONITCIUS. gate of the Buddhist monastery, we proceeded to the Temple of Confucius. It is about as spacious as the Sena';e-hall in "Washing- ton. After having been so long bedazzled and bewildered by tlic Buddhist and other pagan temples in China, it %va8 not without pleasant surprise that we found the great hall, which we now en- tered, unique in design and simple in decoration. There is here THE TEMPI-E OF CONFUCIUS. I i neither idol nor imago, the likeness of any thing in the heaven above, or the earth beneath, or in the waters nnder the earth, noth- ing to bow down to or worship. There is neither altar, nor vase, nor candelabra. Instead jf all these, there is, in a large niche in the rear wall, a plain pedestal, which bears a modest red tablet, on ^vhich is engraved, in letters of gold, the name " Confucius." The architrave of the niche bears seven legends, the homages of the sev- eral emperors, of the present dynasty, who have reigned since the temple was built. These legends are as follows : By KiA-KiNG. " The holy one combined the great perfections." By Kang-IIi. " The leader and patron of all nations." By YuNG-CiiiNG. " Mankind has seen none like him." By KiEN-LiNG. " The equal of Heaven and Earth." By Tai-Kwang. "The holy one who assists in harmonizing the seasons." By IIlEN-FuNG. " Ilis virtue is all the virtue which can exist between the cano- py of Heaven above and the Earth below." FuxG-Cni, the present boy-emperor, contributes this : " His holiness is divine ; Heaven cannot circumscribe it." Around the sides of the room are arranged tablets dedicated to eminent disciples of Confucius. Near the temple is the great Palace Hall, where the annual competitive examination of pupils, from all parts of the empire, is held. The construction of the Ex- amination Chamber is at once convenient and elegant. We are mi '■'i[|: ;•'/, IMAOF. OP CONFUCrUS. riously committed to momory. A long, covered corridor connects this hall with the temple last described. This corridor has a row of massive g/anitc columns. AYe could not stop to count them. The square monoliths are completely covered with the writings of Confucius, the text being the prescribed standard for all republica- tions within the empire. The grounds contain twei>^e thousand apartments for professors and scholars. The enthe institution bears, in government language, the name of "academy." We 180 JAPAX, CHINA, AXD COCHIN CHINA. were sorry to find dl parts of the academy covered witli dust and sand, and exhibiting evidence of mueli neglect, though not dihiin- datcd like the temples. Open any Chinese hook, ask any Chinese statesman or scholur, and you will learn that Confucius is worshipped. Push the incjiiliv further, and you will learn that he is worshipped not as a deitv, but as a person of divine perfection. The absence of the custom- ary symbols of worship in the Temple of Confucius confirms thi^; view. The Chinese ambassadors at Washington refused to recognize one of their young countrymen who had been educated at Fairfax Theological Seminary for the Christian ministry. lie pleaded, as an excuse for his conversion, the divinity of Christ. They replied : "Why do we want another Christ ? We have a Christ of our o^\•^, Confucius." A Chinaman, whom we met here, when pressed bv one of our missionaries to accept the gospel of Jesus Christ as the gift of God to man, replied : " Why is not a Christ born in Cliiua as good as a Christ born in the United States ? " This national habit of comparing Confucius with the Saviour undoubtedly results from the similarity, in many respects, lotwcen the teachings of Confucius and the Cnristian morals. The Chinese reformer teaches no dogmatic theolog}^, either of materialism or mysticism. He tolerates all such, however, while his code of m(»r- als and manners is ada])tcd to all classes and conditions of society, and to all forms of religious fsiith. The worshippers of heaven and earth, the sun, moon, and stars, can accept the system of Coni'u- cius, because it does uot interfere with any principles of their own. The Buddhists entertjiin no jealousy of it. It fails, however, to regenerate the empire; it is "of the eiirth, earthy." "As is the earthy, such are they also that are r-arthy, and as is the heavenly, such are they also that are heaverdy." The motive of duty to our fellow-men must have its most effective spring in the sense of dutv to God. No human being can have that sense, unless he has accepted the truth that God is one, and that he is a Spirit to be worshipped in spirit and in truth. The day closed with an excursion through the imperial city, and under the walls of the " prohibited " city. The grounds at- tached to the THE PARADISE OF BIRDS. 181 tiiclied to tlic imperial palaces have an exquisite arrangement of l:i\vn and grove, of hill and lake. These grounds are cultivated with tliic care, and gave us the only scene we have found in Peking, or indeed in China, exempt from the ravages of decay and desolation. Novemher Wth. — AVe met, hist evening, the diplomatic society, and all the foreigners residing iu Peking, in a pleasant reunion at the British legation. The imperial parks and gardens, the groves around the temples, the waste places made by sieges and fires, not to speak of the mul- titude of canals, fit Peking to be a paradise of birds, and the taste cif the Chinese peoj)le favors their preservation. We are awakened every morning by the cawing of the foraging army of crows going out on their march to the cornfields outside the city. The sky is blackened at sunset with the regiments returning to bivouac. The crow is not here, howeve^- as among us, regarded with dislike. He is taught solemn exercises, cunning acts, and winning ways. Tiirushes, as large as our robins, and sparrows especially beautiful, " abound, and game is more plentiful than poultry at home. The pigeon, everywhere a ftivorite of man, is especially so here. Flocks, whirling through the air at all hours of the day, arrest notice by shrill and varied notes, which they never utter elsewhere. We were a long time perplexed as to what particular species these birds belonged, and in what way they produced these not unmusical sounds. They are reared in dovecotes, and a light reed-whistle is delicately fiistcned on the back of the bird, at the root of the tail- fe:ither8. Many reasons arc assigned for this invention. The most common one is, that it frightens the crows in their depreda- tions. Another, that they protect the flocks against the birds of prey. However this may be, the music produced on these ^Eolian harps is sufficient to account for the practice, without looking for any economical reason. We have frequently recognized the pigeon in his office of letter- carrier. He is the only postman employed in China, except the swift-footed Government courier, whose toll is so great while his reward is so small. What a change must come over the empire, 13 1 a *^-1 ti 182 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. when tliis postman gives place to the railroad, the express, aiul tlu; electric telo/^raj»h ! Wo have not seen the magpie domcsticutcO, but he keeps perpetual ward in the palaces, castles, and gates. While we have been studying the birds of Peking, some meiii- bors of our i>arty were making u new advance upon the Tem])le of Heaven. What they saw nuist be recorded, less for the forbidden knowledge which was gained than for the moral reflections which it suggests. Mr. Coles, a pupil in the American legation, conduct- ed a party of four, two of whom were ladies, along the high, paved road in the direction of the temple. At a distance from the gate he left them and threw himself into a mean, closely-covered nmle- eart, in which he made his way unsuspected along the base of tlie wall, until he reached the central gate, from which we had before been repulsed. Emerging from the cart, he rushed into the ojtcii gate-way, and planted himself by the side of the stern janitor, who requested the unwelcome visitor to retire, and attempted to close the gate. But the visitor stood firm, all the while beckoning to the distant party to come up. The custodian now betrayed a con- bciousness that he did " perceive here a divided duty." In any case it was a duty to save the great altar from profanation by native or foreigner, especially the latter. Secondly, since the Tien-Tsin nias- soard of Kites, and principal ^Minister of Foreign Alfairs. Acting in concert with the regent Prince Kung, AVan-Siang was the master-spirit who led theC'liineso (Jovernment ui) to the resolution of entering into diplomatic rela- tions with the AVestern powers. It was he who solicited and ])r()cured from Mr. Seward at Washington a coj)y of Wheaton's " Law of Nations," and caused it to be translated and adopted by the inrperial Government. He, more than any other, was cfticient in instituting the Burlingame mission. As has been before in- timated, when we arrived he was nnder a leave of absence from official duties for one year, on the double ground of his ill-health and the duty of mourning for that period the death of his mother. Under these circumstances Mr. Seward, the day after his audience with the cabinet, addressed a note to Wan-Siang, sympathizing with him in his illness, and proposing to visit the minister at his own house. This note brought an autograph letter, beautifully written on rose-colored Chinese official paper, as follows : " I have long heard of your excellency's great fame, which for many years has been cherished by all nations, and I myself have exceedingly respected you and longed for a better acquaintance. Since you have come to our country, its high authorities will be still more desirous of seeing and conversing with you. But, as for myself, an old malady having returned, I have been obliged to ask u leave of absence, and it was an occasion of regret and disappoint- ment that I was unable to meet you on the Tth instant, when you visited the foreign office. I have had the honor to receive your note of yesterday, in which you propose to yourself the great trouble of coming to see me, an honor which I shall engrave in my heart, and write on my bones. But my dwelling is mean and small, and its condition would, I fear, be offensive to you, which t..JI 184 JAPAN^, CniNA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Avould be a matter of deep regret to me. I have, therefore, set apart the 11th instant to go and call on you at one o'clock in the afternoon, if my health will in anywise enable mo to do so. Wo can then converse at length. I shall be pleased to receive a reply, and I avail myself of this occasion to wish that hai^pincss may every day be yours." The letter bore no signature, but enclosed within was the writ- ten card of AVan-Siang. At twelve another autograph card of Wan-Siang was delivered to Mr. Seward, as an announcement: of the minister's app^'onch. He arrived at the moment, in a green sedan-chair, with two mounted attendants and four footmen. lie is a dignified and grave person, and he went througli the ceremony of introduction to Mr. Seward with ease and politeness. lie wore a rich dress of silks and furs, and a mandarin's hat with a peacock's feather and a coral ball on the top. Mr. Seward and Mr. Low sat down with Wan-Siang, Dr. Williams acting as interpreter. Wan-Siang said : " I have been detained at my home one whole year by ill- health. I should not have come out from it now, and perhaps 1 should never have come out from it again, but for my desire to make your acquaintance. I have always known you as a firm and constant friend of a just and liberal policy, on the part of the Western nations toward China. I am surprised to see you so vigorous after so laborious a public service. What may be your honorable ao:e?" Mr. Sewakd answered : " Sixty-nine." Wan-Siang exclaimed : " Sixteen years older than I, and yet so much stronger and more elastic ! You are going from your own country around the M'orld, while I, alas! am unable to keep about my own proper business at home." Mk. Seward said: "Mr. Btirlingame's letters and conversa- tions made me well acquainted with your character and your saga- cious and effective statesmanship." Wan-Siano : " We deplore the death of Mr. Burlingame. It is a loss to China that he died before accomplishing his mission. Mr. Burlingai embassy was i Mb. Sewa its provisioni courts. They met Chi-Tajei the treaty ha Mr. Burb'ngan China and the In this view honorable fam WAN-Sli4NC men interest I be free to spea Mr. Sewai Western natio and consuls, w eign nations ac be not foreiirnc AVan-Siaxg be educated he qualified for th Mr. Sewak long. Chinese and customs, i they can acqn already largely interests of CI for want of C ing to the cus tion and prot oppression, tlicre is no re crn nations, as lects the exch at home." INTERVIEW WITH WAN-SI ANG. 185 Mr. Burlingame wrote to us from the United States how much the embassy was indebted to you for its great success." Mr. Seward : " Before the treaty was signed at "Washington, its provisions were confidentially submitted to the European courts. They gave us assuran . s that they would accept them. I met Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen at Shanghai. They told me that the treaty had been virtually accepted by the European states. Mr. Burlmgame's mission was therefore a success, lie has brought China and the West into relations of mutual friendship and accord. In this view his death was not premature. He has raised an honorable fame on a firm foundation." "Wan-Siang: "Does any subject occur to you which is of com- mon interest to China and the United States, on which you would be free to speak ? " Mr. Seward : " I thinlc China ought to reciprocate with the Western nations by sending to them permanent resident ministers and consuls, who should be of equal rank with those which the for- eign nations accredit here. They ought, moreover, in all cases, to be not foreigners, but native Chinese." > "Wan-Siaxg : " We shall send such agents so soon as they can be educated here in the Western sciences and languages, so as to be qualified for their trusts." Mr. Seward : " Better that they go unqualified than wait too long. Chinese experts will learn Wcstcn sciences, languages, laws, and customs, in the United States or v\ Lurope, much faster than they can acquire them here. Moreover, Chinese immigration is already lar^elv flowinsr into the United States. The rig-hts and interests of Chinese immigrants are likely to suffer neglect there for want of Chinese diplomacic and consular agents, who, accord- ing to the customs of nations, are expected to invoke the atten- tion and protection of the Government, in cases of injustice or oppression. Again, there is no accord nor friendship where there is no reciprocity. China is now regarded, by ail the West- ern nations, as not merely unsocial, but hostile, because she neg- lects the exchange of international courtesies abroad as well as at home." I 186 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. "VVan-Siang : " These arc my own opinions. I liave always en- deavored to bring them into practice." Mr. Seward: "There is another point upon which I would like to speak freely, if I should not be thought speaking in an un- friendly way. I think I know the temper of the European states, Chinese ministers are accorded a personal reception by the sover- eigns of those nations. The Chinese emperor refuses a personal reception to the foreign ministers here. Thus, the Chinese minis- ter is admitted to a direct aecpiaintance with the President ■ f the United States, with the Queen of England, and with the Emperor of Itussia. A minister from either of those countries, on arriviuir here, learns that the Emperor of China is too sacred a person to be looked upon. This, to be sure, is only a cpiestion of ceremony and etiquette ; but, my dear sir, questions of ceremony and eti(pietto between nations often becouic the most serious and dangerous of all international complications." "VVan-Siaxg bowed courteously, but made no reply. Mr. Low, interposing, sa-d : "• The subject is a delicate one just now, but we are sure that Wan-Siang is the last statesman in China to overlook it." Mr. Seward : " Are the students, such as I saw yesterday nt tlie Temple of Confucius, and who are the only allowed candidates for official employments in China, instructed in modern Chinese scicuces, or are they taught the ancient classics only?" Wax-Siaxg : " Only the latter. I have attempted to procure the establishment of an imperial college, in which modern sciences and languages shall bo taught by foreign professors. For a while I thought that I should succeed. But the effort has tailed, and has brought me under deep reproach and general suspicion." Mr. Seward : " This ought not to discourage you. Every mIso minister at some time falls under temporary reproach and uiijust suspicion. Piddic opinion, in every country, is a capricious sea. AVhoevcr attempts to navigate it is liable to be tossed about by storms." AVak-Siano : " It is, as you say, indeed unavoidable. A states- man stands on a hill. lie looks farther in all directions than the A DEPRESSED STATESMAN. 187 people, who are standing at the base, can see. When he points out the course they ought to take for safety, they are suspicious that he is misdirecting them. When they have at hist gained the summit from which he pointed the way, they then correct their misjudg- nient. But this, although it may be sufficient for them, comes too late for the statesman.'" Wan-Siang seemed to avoid contested questions, like a sick man who is warned against excitement. lie turned the conversation upon Prince Kung's admiration for Mr. Seward, and disappoint- ment in tailing to meet him nt the foreign office, and his purpose still to do so when recovered from his illness. "Wan-Siang then fell into lamentations over his own prostrate health, and expressed liimsclf dcspondingly concerning the future of China. After an exchange of courtesies he withdrew, leaving on Mr. Seward's mind the painful impression that Wan-Siang would die, before many years, of a broken heart. On inquiring the cause of Wan-Siang's mental depression, Mr. Seward learned that it is due to the defeat of his plans for the col- lege which he had mentioned. It is only just, however, to say that a more hopeful view of that great and beneficent project is entertained, not only by intelligent foreigners residing here, but by Wan-Siang's associates in the (xovcrnment. If we have exhausted the sights and wonders of Peking during onr stay, certainly the city seems imconscious of it. The wretched streets have become a little less muddy, and the general aspect more cheerful, than when we came here ten days ago. Li CHAPTER IX. VISIT TO THE GREAT WALL. Preparations for the Trip. — Our Vchic'es. — Tlic Summer Palace. — Pagodas. — First Xiplu uiuler a Chinese Koof. — A Chinese Tavern. — Approacli to the Great Wall. — The Mongolians. — The Cost of the Wall. — Inquisitive Chinese. — The Second Wall. — The Ming Tombs. — A Jlisguided Mule. Ilijden, Novcmhcr \'^th. — Pekirig is on the parallel of 39° ~)\' . The point of the (Jreat Wall which avc propose to visit is in a direct north line about forty miles distant, on an elevation of two thou- sand feet above the city. This altitude has a climatic eflect of nearly Bevcn degrees of latitude. The climate there may therefore be un derstood to be about the same in relation to Peking as the climate of Lake Superior is to that of Kew York. "We provided against in- clemency by a supply of furs and braziers. What Avitli onr strange catskin caps, hmg foxskin coats, and high white felt boots, wo scarcely claimed to know each other. The obstacles to the o.vcnr- sion have not been over-estimated. They were not, however, of a political nature, like those which opposed our journey to Pcldng. They are chiefly material and local. Our arrangements were made several days in advance, with Chinese common carriers, for the necessary litters, carts, mules, donkeys, drivers, and attendants. On the afternoon of the tenth, we saw Avith our own eyes a, combined force of men and beasts enter the court ready to be caparisoned an(^ packed during the night to start on the next day, just as soon as Wan-Siang's expected visit should be over. It was not, how- A CHINESE CART. 189 ever, until eight o'cloclc last night that it was announced to us, not only that the necessary complement of litters had not been ob- tiiued, but also that they could not be procured in the city that day. We acquiesced with such grace as we could, and appointed a new hour for departure, namely, six o'clock this morning. "We determined to retire early, Mrs. Low's ball to the contrary notwithstanding. In vain was that " net spread in sight of these birds." Wc rose at live o'clock. All the mules that had been frathered the day before had been taken away during the night to their customary stables. There was not one animal in the court- yard. At eight o'clock two mules were lacking, but they had been CUINESB CART. Eont for. At nine, one of the mules whicli remained was taken gick and was sent away to the hospital. At ten, it was replaced. At half-past ten, the driver fell suddenly ill, and was sent home r it ^ a JJ I mi a» 190 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. unfit for duty. At noon, after we had been sitting tl ree hours closely packed in our litters, the great gate opened, and the hwiz procession, which, though a motley one, was completely orgi.nii.'::e(J moved out. The roads we are to travel do not allow the use of sedan-chairs. Only mnndarins are allowed the privilege of travel- ling in mule-litters. Inferior persons are by the Board of Rilcs TUB LITTlill, confined to the use of the heavy, two-wheeled, closo-covcrcd mnle- cart, indulgently called by Mr. Pnmpelly "a carriage." The cara- van consists of eight covered litters for the less vigorous members of the party. Each litter is borne by two mules harnessed between the shafts, one before and one behind the litter. Each litter has an extra mule for occasional service. It has also a driver on foot and a muleteer on a donkcv. Then there are six carts, each drawn by one mule, and attended by a driver who walks. All the aniuiab THE TEMPLE OF THE GREAT BELL. 191 ^vcar tinkling bells, which give warning to all can\el-drivcrs and whomsoever else it may concern, that a wide berth is required by the ostentatious occupar.ts of the litters. Our way out of the city was through the North Gate. It brought in review, as we passed, the wayside traffic and St.^eet amusements of this singular people. Every thing to eat, to drink, and to wear, is prepared and sold in booths, and every thing needful in daily life and death, including cotiins, is made and mended there. Tliese booths are interspersed at short distances with theatres, show-rooms, and gambling-dens. Yon see an hourly performance of Punch with a pigtail, and Judy with cramped feet, thimblerig, harlequin, cards, dice, and magic. Occasionally we meet a lady " of the better sort," closely cushioned in a sedan-chair, more frequently " other women," with or without chiklrcn, heaped and packed in horrible carts. Only virtuous and respectable people are allowed this indulgence. These women are (ravly dressed, painted white and red, and wear large chrysanthe- mums, or rosettes, in their hair. The very few women whom wc pass in the streets are accounted both vulgar and vicious. The booths and theatre were not the only obstacles in our line of inarch. We jostled against long camel-caravans ; funeral-proces- sions, which, by the affectation of solemnity, made a mockery of death; and wedding-processions, which, withont a pretence to rc- tiucmcnt or delicacy, make tlie marriage ceremony a vulgar spec- tacle. At Ta-tsoon-tsa, a dull and cheerless suburb, two miles be- yond the gate, we halted for refreshments, at the Buddhist temple of the Great Bell. In China, temples and Buddhist monasteries are freely opened for tlie entertainment of travellers. Two monks assisted our ser- vants in preparing lunch. The Temple of the Great Bell is humble compared with those in the city, but, although much dila]Mdated, is in a more cleanly condition than any wc have seen in China. It rejoices in one of eight immense bron/o bells which were cast at Peking in the year 1400 of onr era, by the Emperor Yung-Lo. It is of the ordinary bell-shape, eighteen feet high, with a mouth thirty-six feet in circumference. It has a small, circular aperture at the top, adapted to the apparatus for suspending the boll. It is C "fi K- I,. 3 192 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. literally covered inside and out with raised texts in very small Chinese characters, in all numbering, it is claimed, eighty-lbur eUMMEB PALACE. thousand. The bell is made to sound by being beaten with a heavy wooden club. A further drive of six miles brought us to the Yuen-Min-Yiicn, familiarly called the Emperor's Summer Palace. Since the time of the Mine: dvnasty, Yuen-Min-Yuen was the Versailles of China until 1800, when it was sacked, plundered, and dcsti'oyed, by the British and French allied armies in their advance on Peking. It is not in our way now to describe its former glory, or to relate the story of its catastrophe. "We must be content in writing what mc see and how we see it. The grounds of Yuen-Min-Yuen arc an area of twelve square miles. It once contained thirty extensive and costly palaces used by the emperor and court. The invaders related that the architecture, furniture, and embellishments of CANALS OF THE fiTTMMER PALACE. 193 Viicn-Min-Yucn, as they found it, wore a luippy and effective coni- biiKition of Oriental and AVestcrn luxury and elegance. Many streams, gathered on adjacent moinitain-slopes, arc brought into large artilicial lakes, and thence distributed by deep and clear canals throuc-h the grounds, and then used equal- ly for pleasure, navigation, and irrigation. The canals, after performing these serv- ices, unite and How throno;h a broad and deep canal into Peking, where they constitute the great and picturesque lake which we have before men- tioned as the finest ornament of the imperial city. "VVh'Ic the canals have been built with excellent masonry, they are crossed with graceful mar- ble bridges in various direc- tions. The fields, meadows, and lawns, are fertile, but now in a condition of com- plete neglect and waste. At the centre of the plain a cir- cular rocky islet rises abrupt- ly to a height of two hun- dred and fifty feet. This arti- ficial hill is traced with spiral terraces which fascinate the visitor by continually bring- ing into view palaces, pavil- ions, pagodas, temples, all half concealed by hanging S*'* ■*s 1 ■? .:4 ■ i ■ /^ M "^'1 194 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. gardens and proves, wliicli are embellished with fountains, statuary and shrines. The summit is crowned with an imperial sunnnor- house in the Italian style, its wall richly frescoed, and its roof glistening with blue and yellow porcelain. One of the delights of Yuen-Miu-Vuen was a unique temple, wrought of polished bronze, standing on the acclivii. ..is islet. We shall never weary of the Chinese pagoda. One of those at Ynen-Min-Yuen, which, with the temple last mentioned, preserves much of its form and beautv, is a gem of that sort of structures. It is of slender proportions, and built entirely of porcelain of variegated colors. There must Ikuc been a time when the sculptor of China, while he disdained to copy foreign models, had learned how to bring Greek and Roman taste and art to give effect to national designs. Although the lions, the sphinxes, and the dragons, which are profusely displayed here, are imaginative conceptions, any one of them would, by its exquisite execution, excite rdmiration in Eui'ope. The destruction of this magnifi, it palace by the allies presents one of those painful subjects concerning which agreement can never be expected between the generous and the unsympathetic portions of mankind. The allies say that the demolition was a just and even necessary retaliation against the emperor for the cruelty practised by the Chinese Government toward Sir Harry Parkes. The friends of art throughout the world will agree with the Chinese scholars and statesmen, who complain that the destruction of these ancient and ornamental palaces, with the plunder of their stores of art, was useless to the invaders, and therefore indefensible. For our own part, we have always thought that the British army might have spared the Capitol and the presidential mansion in 1814 ; and we now think that the allies might have spared Yuen-Min-Yuen. However this inay be, the fact remains that the Emperor of China, ruler of the oldest monarchy in the world, is the only sovereign who is confined to a single residence, and that in the heart of a crowded and walled city. The ruins are now without tenants, as the temples are without priests or worshippers. Speculators and adventurers boldly barter for the disfigured statuary and for the polished capitals, shafts, and pedestals, of the bronze temple. The THE DECAY OF CHINA. 195 roads are impassable, the marble bridges broken down, the canals choked, the gardens, groves, and walks, have become devastated, and tlic plain itself is fast becoming a stagnant marsh. Washington, licrlin, Vienna, and Moscow, have repaired the disasters they have respectively suffered, but the Chinese Government has no resources or spirit for renovation. The decay of Yuen-Min-Yuen must, therefore, continue until these " round and splendid " gardens shall become a maze as imintelligible to the traveller as the palace of the Caisars at Rome. It remains to be said that these imperial pleasure-resorts were surrounded by populous cities and villages, whose inhabitants derived their living from ministering to the needs and pleasures of the court. These cities and villages are now abandoned to bats and vermin. Arriving here after dark, we brought our long and hha7're pro- cession to a halt in the open streets, because the court-yard of the iun would not hold litters and carts with the teams attached. It is hard to say how either Mr. Seward or the ladies could have been able to alight and thread their way among the busy, curious crowd which thronged the narrow, crooked streets, but for the assistance of Admiral Rodgers and the consul-general. We came in safely, however, to have our first experience of lodging under a Chinese roof. Nan^Kow^ Nommher VUK. — The mule litter is comfortable, and its movement easy, but it makes only two miles an hour. The "cribbed, cabined, and confined," solitary occupant finds the travel tedious. We have learned, however, to relieve the weariness by occasional changes with the muleteer and the donkey- driver. The first part of our journey to day was over a level table-land. The road has been only a narrow, uneven, stony path, impassable with any vehicle other than those we have chosen. During the last two hours, we have climbed six hundred feet of the mountain slope, and have reached the foot of the' Nan-Kow Pass, up which wc must go to reach the Great Wall. With the usual ruggedness 100 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. of mountain scenery, no j)art of the country ailbrds any relief to the general aspect of desolation. Fahrenheit 32°. '" - -^^i;':... "^-^ NAN-KOW PASS. With few exceptions, the houses here are built of adobe, with thatched roofs, and only one story high. Our inn is of this sort, and consists of a low range of very small apartments, built against the wall on the four inner sides of a large, unpaved square. Wo have to-night, as last night, secured the entire inn. Entering from the street, we have on that side of the square a row of apartments which are divided by the gate. On the right of the gate are the rooms, or offices, occupied by the manager or keeper of tlie inn, where orders are received. On the left, a kitchen, or a series of immense cooking- houses, where victuals are cooked after the Chinese fashion, sufflcie niiirvoUous whi exliibits. The as he pleases. do. Proccedin of apartments according to th rooms. At the same sort, whic sleeping-apartn series of accom: and attendants ing to their tast harness block u it or through it inents, though ' uses to which m no corridor or tion between th arc about ten fe disjointed flat si swept. The do One small wind be covered, wit] nor where the n witli which he h have hired utenf and cloaks supp] of each apartme the stone floor. reverberatory fli The platform thi stead of the apa common bed. 1 it retains its hea replenish it at yo A CHINESE INN. 197 fashion, sufKcicnt, wc should think, to suj)ply the whole town. It is mtirvollous what economy of fuel, labor, and provisions, this kitchen exhibits. The guest at the inn may supply himself from it or not, us he pleases. Perhaps, it is needless to say that foreigners never do. Proceeding through the square, we have on one side a row of apartments just like the others, which are i)romiscuously used, according to the exigencies of the occasion, for stables or lodging- rooms. At the farther side of tiic square are four rooms of the same sort, which we have appropriated for parlor, dining-room, and sleeping-apartments. On the other side of the square, a similar series of accommodations for man and beast. The animals, drivers, and attendants are disposed of in their lodgings^nd stables, accord- ing to their tastes. The litters and carts with their clumsy, ragged harness block up the court-yard, so that there is no getting across it or through it, without a guide and a lantern. Our own apart- ments, though we have called them by names which designate the uses to which we have appropriated them, are all alike. There is no corridor or veranda within or without, and so no communica- tion between them except through the open court-yard. The rooms arc about ten feet square and seven feet high ; the floors of uneven, disjointed flat stones, and they seem to have been never washed or swept. The doors are rude, full of crevices, and without fastenings. One small Avindow in each room has a sash, covered, or meant to be covered, with dingy, torn, oiled i:)aper. We do not know how nor where the manager of the inn procured the one table and chair with which he has furnished our chosen dining-room. Our servants liavc hired utensils in the kitchen to prepare our supper. Our bags and cloaks supply the deficiency of chairs. Across one entire end of each apartment is a brick platform, raised eighteen inches above the stone floor. Under this platform is a sunken furnace with reverberatory flues, so placed as to heat every part of the surface. The platform thus heated, and called the Imng, is the common bed- stead of the apartment, and the bamboo-mat spread over it is the common bed. A good fire being built in the kang in the evening, it retains its heat generally during the night. You may, however, replenish it at your pleasure. The bedstead accommodates, if neces- i'm tr\ 198 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. sary, ten persons, who strotcli themselves out upon it side by side without making any change of clothing, wrapping themselves in their sheep-skin jackets. We, of course, have a separate room for each of our party. Our servants liave brought in the cushions, blankets, and furs, from our litters, and with these, by the aid of our dressing-cases, wo are able to make a pretence of toilets. We have even extemporized cur- tains, which are close, though not of damask. The kang is throw- ing out a genial heat through the room. We lie down upon it with the stars twinkling brightly through the broken paper panes of the only window. » November \Uh, Morning. — Our mules are not reliable for tlio part of our journey which remains. AVe have ordered mountain- chairs and coolies, and while they are coming we have made a complete tour of the inn. In the East, the travellers are generally merchants or government agents. As there are no carriage-roads, every one uses one, two, three, or more beasts. Forage is cum- brous, and therefore becomes the most serious care of the inn- keeper Dwellers in the East invariably live in close intimacy with their beasts ; hence cleanliness is a virtue scarcely known. The inn, which last night seemed to us not absolutely destitute of comfort, this morning is offensive and disgusting. Nan-Kow^ I^ovcmher 14M, Evening. — We have done it! Wc have seen the Great Wall. AVe have scaled its rampart, walked through its gates, examined its bastions, trodden its parapet, looked (»ff from its battlements, and rested under its shade. llcgardin<«: this as the greatest achievement of our journey thus for, we slionld desire to set down minutely and deliberately each one of its inci- dents ; but, hurried as we are by threatening Avinter, wo have only time [() describe the prominent features, and record an occasional thought. (Jhina might be designated as a country of fortifications and walls. Without being aware of this, we have already mentioiuMJ the walls of Shanghai, Tien-Tsin, Tung-Chow, and the triple walls '■'^'&Mmm (X u 'V» S.:} 200 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 1 of the city of Peking. This little l ity of Kan-Kow has fortifications adequate to the largest garrison. Inscriptions on the gate-wajs and arches in four different dialects, Mongolian, Mantchoorian, Chinese, and Thibetian, besides another dialect which is no longer extant, prove the great antiquity of these structures. Besides these fortifi- cations, Nan-Kow is encircled by a wall which stretches over hill and valley in such a way that, while it is no longer useful for any purpose of defence, one cannot but hope that it may be preserved GATE AT NAN-KOW. for picturesque effect. Thus we seem here not to be seeing the present China, but the China of the past. From the very gate of Nan-Kow, we found neither regular road, nor marked nor beaten track, but a ravine, which, in the MOUNTAIN TRAVEL. 201 rcLijuliir lapse of ages, a torrent lias excavated down the mountain, falling a thousand feet in a distance of twelve miles. Our upward way lay in the rugged furrow of this torrent. Each passenger was lashed tightly in his "mountain" chair, which is simply an arm-chair mounted on two shafts, and borne "by four coolies, his safety de- pending on the tenacity with which his feet press against a swing- ing board suspended before him from the shafts. The coolies pick their way by crossing from one side to the other over uneven, broken bowlders and rocks, and through deep gullies. The passen- ger at one moment is in danger of slipping out backward from his chair, at another of being thrown out one side or the other, and again of being dashed headlong on the rocks before him. In some places the torrent is dry, in others the coolies are slipping over treacherous ice, or splashing through pools of water among rounded pebbles and sharp rocks ; in short, over every thing but dry earth. Steep mountains exclude the sun's light and heat at nearly all hours of the day. Those mountains are timberless, tenantless, dry, and brown. The geological formation of the pass is an alternation of granite, gneiss, red and yellow sandstone, porphyry, and marble. Having said that our road has none of the qualities and condi- tions of a thoroughfare, it will seem strange when we now say that at intervals we encounter, through the whole pass, blocks of hewn and polished marble, with other debris of pavements, culverts, bridges, arches, and gates, indicating that it was once a military road superior to the Appian Way of Rome. Only Love, that "laughs at locksmiths," could maintain his sway in this dreary region. We met, in one of the most fearful gorges, a magnificent crimson wedding-car, which was coming down from Kiakhta, to receive a bride at Peking. We encounter on the way a class of travellers that we have not before met. They come not in sedan-chairs, mule-litters, or carts, but on horses, cam- els, and donkeys ; and of these there is an endless procession. The beasts are loaded with wheat, barley, hemp, flax, and wool. Thirty camels make up a single train. One man leads each six of the beasts by means of a cord to which the halter of each is attached. Rocking from side to side, and unceasingly chewing their cuds l4 M 202 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, II as tliey move slowly along, they excite interest by their patience, docility, and perseverance. Ro'^gli and vehement as the camel- driver seems, we have not seen him inflict a blow, or utter a word of impatience toward the gentle beasts. Another class of travellers are herdsmen. Mongolia and Mantchooria, beyond the Great Wall, are pasturages, and the flocks of sheep and herds of cattle which are raised there are brought chiefly through this pass, to be spread over the great p'ain of North China. The Mongolians dress altogether in furs and skins. They have an air of independence and intelligence not observable in China proper. The women are particularly strong, and, as we judge from their manner, entirely free. Their furs are richer than those of the men, and they wear a profusion of silver ornaments on the fore \ wrist, and ?nkle, as well as suspended from their ears and nose. They travel with their husbands, who divide with them the care of the children. If it is discouraging to some at home to wait for tl e restoration of woman's rights, it is pleasant to find her in the full enjoyment of them here, in spite of Oriental prejudices and superstitions. The mountain-cliffs are ornamented at conven- ient and prominent points with pretty temples and unique shrines, and pious devices and legends are carved on what seem to be in- accessible basaltic rocks. But the temples and shrines, no longer attended by votaries, are falling into ruin. Reaching at length the source of the mountain-torrent which has made such fearful devastation, we found ourselves in a dell surrounded by mountains, and from their crests the Great Wall encircling and frowning down upon us. Our chairmen at once, with renewed vigor and elasticity, carried us up a rugged declivity of a quarter of a mile, clambering over shivered and shattered rocks, and set us down within a redoubt at the verv base of the wall, three hundred feet above the dell which we had left. The wall varies in he-'ght from twenty-five to fifty feet. The base hei'c, twenty feet high, is built of solid, hewn granite. We were not long in ascending the well-preserved flight of stone steps which led to the parapet. The top of the wall is REFLECTIONS ON THE GREAT WALL. 203 wide enough for two carriages to pass. From the parapet we oon- templated the conquered China of the past, which was hclow us, and the conquering Tartary of the past, which was above us, both now under one regime^ and constituting one vast, but crumbhng empire. In the embrasures of the parapet we found, here and there, a cast-iron grooved cannon of four-pound calibre. It passed our comprehension to conceive when it was put there, or for what purpose. We entered a watch-tower on our left, and saw, at a dis- tance of forty miles, murky Peking. The Great AVall crosses twenty-one degrees of longitude from the Pacific coast to the desert border of Thibet, and with its wind- ings has a length of from twelve hundred to fifteen hundred miles. It seems almost incredible that this gigantic structure, the greatest fortification that has been built by human hands, could have been raised in the short space of about twenty years. Yet liistory assures us that Chin-Wangti began the work in the year 240 b. c, and finished it in 220 b. c. Nor is the perfection of the work less wonderful than the dispatch with wdiich it was built. Although it here and there exhibits crumbling arches and falling ramparts, it nevertheless stands more firmly and in better preservation than any ancient structure, except perhaps the Pyramids. Yery slight repairs would restore it to its original state. " Admiral Rodgcrs," said Mr. Seward, as we leaned against the immovable parapet, " will you take your pencil and make an esti- mate of the comparative cost of constructing a mile of this wall, at the present day, with that of a mile of the Pacific Railroad? " The two gentlemen went through the process together, and agreed in the result that the cost of building such a wall as this, in the United States to-day, would exceed the entire cost of all the railroads in that country. "I never before," said Mr. Seward, "found myself in a position so suggestive of reflection. This great monument tells, in brief, the history of China. Aboriginal tribes of the Mongolian race, forty or fitty centuries ago, left cold and sterile homes in the north, spread themselves over the southeastern portion of the continent of Asia, established there a kingdom, and built up a prosperous and i: » 204 JAPAN", CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. highly-refined state. They were annoyed by incursions and dep- redations from the same northern steppes wliicli they had left behind them, just as England was so long annoyed by incursions and depredations of the Picts and Scots, Danes and Saxons. Chin- Wangti, king of civilized China, built this great wall to protect the country against those nomadic tribes. The completion of so great a work justified him in laying aside the modest title of king, and assuming the more ambitious one of emperor — the first emperor of China. It is not an unimportant consideration that the culmina- tion of the Chinese Empire, marked by the construction of the Great Wall, was coincident with the decline of Grecian arts and arms and with the establishment of Roman empire on the western shores of Asia. The Great Wall served its purpose through the period of fourteen hundred years. But, during this time, wealth and luxury increased in China, while moral vigor declined. An enervated state provoked the rapacity of its neighbors. Kublai-Khan effected a combination of all the Tartar and Mongolian hordes of the north. They forced the wall, conquered and enslaved China. Chinese morals and manners, however, subdued and modified the character of their conquerors. The wall ceased to be needful, because the Chinese and Tartars became reconciled, assimilated, and contented, under the sway of the Mantchoorian dynasty. How little can human foresight ever penetrate the remote future! How little Chin-Wangti understood of the fate of the Great Wall. Is it not well that human power cannot bind or control for an indefinite future the destinies of any nation ? " Occupied with such reflections as these, we took no note of the hours until the shadows began to fall, and the wind became cold and bleak. We descended and sat at the base of the rampart, where we found a dinner spread upon an uneven table of broken granite blocks. " Admiral," said Mr. Seward, " our Government informed me, when I was coming abroad, that you were instructed to show me courteous attentions, if I should be so fortunate as to meet you in Asiatic waters. You have executed these instructions in a manner equally considerate and kind. You not only received me at A LONELY TRAMP. 205 Shanghai with the usual naval demonstrations of respect, but, with your official staff, you have accompanied me, in the character of a protector as well v". a friend, thiough the stormy Yellow Sea, the agitated political scenes of Tien-Tsin, up the tedious Pei-ho, over the desolate plains of Tung-Chow to Peking, and from there to the Great Wall, where we can look back together on the declining power of China, and forward to the coming of AVestern civilization from the shores of our own country to the Asiatic coast." The admiral replied: "I have esteemed myself fortunate, as well as happy, in having had an opportunity of attending you to Peking and the Great Wall — fortunate in having your ripe and varied experience to assist me in forming opinions, and in drawing deductions from what I have seen ; happy in the continual familiar intercourse with me whom it is not only a duty, but a pleasure, to honor. Truly do I hope that your health may continue no less robust, and your endurance no less marked, than in our rough ex- perience together, and that your personal observations in other climes, of other peoples, may not be of less interest and benefit to mankind than those you make here." Our party broke into detachments and all communications be- tween its members ceased. What a lonely tramp did we now have ! At length we reached the half-way coolie station. There the bearers set us down outside, while they went into the huts to re- fresh. Half a dozen men and boys came around the ladies' chairs, and proceeded to examine their dresses, unable to determine whether the habiliments were those of man or woman. Well they might be perplexed. The Astrakhan cap might be worn by either. The long, heavy fox-skin coat and white mandarin boots were equally perplexing. They drew the gloves from oflt' the fingers. These rudenesses were disturbing enough, but at last became unen- durable when they thrust their fingers into the hair, and oftered their filthy pipes, inviting a general smoke. Just then, when the ladies seemed to have passed completely beyond the society of their own race, they heard the shrill voice of a baby within the hut, crying not especially in the Chinese language, but in the universal dialect of infancy, with the response of the soothing lullaby of the mother, 206 JAPAN, CHINA, AND OOCIIIN CHINA. equally nrtural. These incidents reassured the ladies, and showed them that the Chinese are yet human, and they gave over all thoughts of fear and torment. After a march of three more tedious hours, we have reached the same wretched inn which we left this niornin<5. Wo conclude the notes of our journey by mentioning that, a thousand years, more or less, after the wall was built by Chin-Wangti, a second one vas built for greater security, at the eastern end, forty miles south of the original one, both of which remain standing. It is this second wall last built, but similar to and constituting a part of the original system of defence, that we have visited. Ming Toinhs^ November loth. — Resuming our litter, and mov- ing early this morning, we came down from the mountain terrace, and entered a smooth, level, circular plain, seeming more like u bay which indents a high, rochy coast, than the amphitheatre (^f landscape and mountain Avhich it is. The terrace which surrounds the plain was chosen by the emperors of the Ming dynasty for an UATP.9AY AT MINQ TOMBS. THE MIXG TOMBS. 207 imperial cemetery. It is divided into thirteen areas, seemingly of e([iial extent. Each of these areas is covered with luxnriant gar- dens, out of the midst of which rises u magnificent mausoleum, called here a temple, but which is in fact a tomb. Dr. Williams tells us that "Ming" means "bright." The "Bright" dynasty nourished from the close of the fourteenth to the middle of the seven- teenth century. Nanking, for a time the capital, has a cemetery of the earlier rulers of that dynasty. But we understand that it is not so Avell prcGcrved as .this. All the tombs arc of one type. We visited that of Yung Lo, one of the most distinguished of the emperors of China. His decrees of laws and manners, grounded on the Avritings of Con- fucius, with some alteration, constitute even now the code of the Chinese Empire. We sat down here to rest in an ancient grove of persimmons, live-oaks, acacias, and cypresses. "It seems," said Mr. Seward, "that it is not until society reaches a high state of civilization in any country that it learns the absurdity of sepulchral monuments. Great achievements and rare virtues leave an impression upon mankind so deep, that they need no monumental reminder, while the attempt to supply the want of that impression by extravagant art is a mockery." But let us see how the Chinese of the past ages honored their illustrious dead. It is manifest that the device of a series of concentric structures, rising one above the other, is a favorite form of Chinese architecture. This vast monument con<"?.iiiS five courts, one within the other. The structures are two temples, disconnected and distant from each other, but essentiallv alike in design and construction — the outer one serving as a vestibule to the inner or principal one. This inner temple, with its red walls and its plain balustrades and railings, is in form and style quite like the great Temple of Con- fucius at Peking. Its ])roportions are equally grand, tasteful, and sinqile. Its massive yellow-porcelain roof, with its bright grecn- and-gold ceiling, rests upon two rows of wooden columns, of which there are thirty in each — the columns fifty feet high, with a diameter of four feet at the base. Behind the temple and in the fourth court stands an uncovered altar, the top of which is a mono- t1 208 JAl'AX, CHINA, AND CUC'IIIN CHINA. litli muasiirinr^ twenty-two feet by five feet. Directly behind tlio altiir is a pai^oda of three stories. Entering this pagoda throiio], an arclied door, you confront a hirge tablet of red and gold, whie-li covers the remains of Yung Lo. You then ascend not a staircase, but a long and winding inclined plane, some sixty feet, to the sec- ond story. This second story rises seventy feet ; in the centre of this is a smaller tablet, like the one in the iirst story. The thin] story, reached in the same way, is an open space under the roof. Although we observe, in these buildings and grounds, marks of care and attention not elsewhere seen in China, there is neverthe- less painful evidence that the work of dilapidation has begun even here. The path by which we reached the cemetery was an indirect one. Contrary to usage, therefore, we made our exit instead of our entrance by the avenue designed for approach from Peking. This avenue is twenty-two miles long, Avell graded, and originally was paved in the most substantial manner. This road descends from the tomb-covered terrace upon the level plain, at a distance of one mile from the tomb of Yung Lo. Here it crosses a stream or canal by a noble marble bridge, not wholly ruined. This bridge is graced with Mdiat is here called the honorary arch, a majestic gate- way, built not for use but for effect, like the triumphal arches of Rome or Paris. A mile flirther the road leaves the level plain under a similar arch. Having passed these gates, we found the avenue adorned, for the length of a whole mile, by a row, on either side, of gigantic granite figures. AVhoever may read these njfcs will remember that the proper order of these colossal figures is the reverse of that in which we passed them. First, we came be- tween two rows of statues representing philosophers and moralists, four on each side of the way. Then four generals, arranged in like manner on each side, then four priests, then four ministers or statesmen. These figures arc about twelve feet high, their costume Chinese. By their attitude and expression they seem to point with silent homage to the tombs of the great beyond. Kext we pass in review a double row of equally colossal horses, four on each side, two of them resting on their haunches, and two erect ; next ele- PRANKS OF A MULE. 200 |)li;ints erect, and elephants in a sittin<]^ posture ; then canielu gtimding and camels coucliant ; then lions rani])ant and lions asleep ; then buffaloes standing and at rest ; then asses, and at the end rhinoceroses. Here two arches of honor, like those at the other end of tlie avenue, open on uneonsecrated ground. Though the sculpture must have been executed three hundred years ago, it cx'^els much of the statuary found in the public grounds at AVash- ington, and is very etl'ective. Of this we have evidence so strong that we should be afraid to produce it, if there were not a cloud of S.:l * i AVr.NlF. Ti) TIIK Mrsr, TOMDS. witnesses to verify it. We give their names — the Admiral, the (.'onsul-Genernl, John Middleton, Esq., Alfred Tiodman, Esq., and AVilliam Ereeman. Here is the evidence : The lean lead mule (»f ]\Ir. ScM'ard's litter is a large, strong, spirited beast. Although lio liad given ])roofs of this many times by stentorian braying, ex- pressive of discontent and obstinacy, yet he made the journey from Peking to Nan-Kow, and through the sacred groves of the ?,Iing tombs, without any especial fractiousness. But he was oiily reserving himself for a display on tli? grand avenue. Even hero 210 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. lie made no demonstration at the mapiificcnt marble bridi^o. Ho passed meekly under the double arches of lio'ior. lie turned neither to the ri^ht nor to the left, to pay homages to either colos- sal philosophers, generals, priests, or statesmen. lie even passed the recumbent horses on both sides of him witl.out turning his head or pricking up his cars. I'ut the first great stone horse standing erect, on the left, proved too much for the e(pianimity of the mule. Perceiving that statue at a distance of three or four rods, he broke all of a sudden from his lazy walk into a sharp trot, discarding his driver and dragging the rear mule behind him ; regardless that, in the litter which he bore, was seated the venerated chief of our party, he dashed furiously forward to the granite horse, and, throw- ing his head upward, presented his broad, graceless mouth to tlio more stubborn jaw of the statue. The muleteers, alarmed by this strange performance, cried out with dismay, and the gentlemen liastcned to rescue Mr. Seward from being dashed against the figure. IIaj)pily, at this moment, the muleteers seized the brute by tlic head, in the act of saluting his ancient and unappreciative distant relation, and buffeted him away. lie yielded, but not without a shaking of the ears, and an unearthly complaint from the lungs, which left no one in doubt that the animal thought he was unrea- sonably deprived of a just and rational pleasure. Though not yet qualified for comparing the Imperial Cemetery of China with the sepulchral architecture of other countries, we may nevertheless venture to say that the impressive and suggestive avenue of approach, the spaciousness of the grounds, the severe exclusion of all foreign or incongruous objects, the drawling into contrast mountain and plain with ancient groves, and natural rivulets with arched bridges, the magnificence and elegance of the temples, and the simplicity and durability of the memorial tablets, constitute an extraordinary and masterly combination. Wliatever may be the historical merit of the Ming emperors whose ashes are deposited in those tombs, no one can leave the place doubting tliat the honors' they have received here are such as are due to bene- factors of mankind. Novemher V CHAPTER X. LAST DAYS LV I'EKIXO. Cham-Pins-Chow. — A Cliincsc Inn. — The Roman Catholics in China. — The Cathedral. — The Tion-Tsin Massacre. — (-'iiristian Policy. — Interview with Robert Hart. — A Letter from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen. — Letter from Prince Kung. — Interview with the Prince. — The Prince's Present. — Departure from Peking. Pelting, Novemher Ifi^A. — We passed the night at Cham-Ping- Chow, a town of considerable activity. Cur inn was such a one as wc could procure exchisively without giving previous notice. Our ^'uides say there are some that arc better. We are quite sure there are none which can be worse. But, if avc fare badly in Chinese inns, we have the consolation of knowing that wc fare cheaply. We do not know what were the bills of our coolies for man and beast. They could not have been extravagant, for the entire compensation which we ha o paid to them for the journey to Peking to the wall and back again is only ten dollars for each litter and cart. The expenses of our party of ten at the inn was three Mexican dollars for all, of which seventy-five cents was paid for extra fuel for the kang. The impression made on ns, by the conduct of the people who came under our observation, does not go to confirm the helief that they are either hostile or prejudiced against foreigners, while it does satisfy us that they are punctual and exact in the fulfilment of their contracts. The mercury has fallen to 2G°. Novem'ber Vltfi. — By the laws of China, the Boman Catholic religion is tolerated here. That Church has on paper divided the 1 fit ' ' ^ 212 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. empire into bishopries and vicarates. It counts eight bishoprics o more, sixty foreign priests, one hundred and twenty native priests, and four hundred thousand native converts. We visited, to-day, the Cathedral at Peking. It is a line, large, stone edifice, with an adjoining nunnery. The sisters are Freucli and Irish. There is a large number of native servants. It seems quite apparent that converts are obtained as last as the missionaries are able to furnish them employment an.d support, which is an indispensable condition. Native jealousy feeds on a tradition that the spacious grounds occupied by those institutions were obtained without equivalent. Nor djes the same jealousy fail to take notice that the Church arrogates a right denied even to foreign embassies, of using the imperial yellow color in the ornamentation of its portals and walls. Sister Louise, lamented as the noblest and best beloved of the martyrs at Tien-Tsin, had arrived there just before the massacre. The sisters gave us relics of her. What shall we say concerning that terrible transaction ? It is right, just, and wise, that all the Christian nations shall mourn together over the victims, sympathize with the survivors, and unite in demanding such satisiaction from the Chinese Govern- ment as would allbrd security against a recurrence of persecution. But tliis has been already done as fully, it seems to us, as is possible. Tlie Chinese Government has beheaded eighteen of the murderers, has provided for repairing and restoring the demolished buildiiiiis, and paid an indenniity of six hundred thousand taels for distribu- tion to the families of the victims. It has, moreover sent one of tlie most eminent statesmen of China, who is fully conversant with tlie details of the tragedy, to make sirch further explanations and give such further guarantees as the French Government may reasonably deinand. The French minister here, under high excitement and witli threats of war, demanded, besides those concessions, the heads of the two chief mandarins who were in authority at the time tlie massacre occurred. The Chinese Government brought those maii- darins to trial. The charge of eomiilicitv Avas not sustaineil. Nevertheless the Government banished them for life, as a punish- ment for tlitir imbecility. THE TIEN-TSIN MASSACRE. 213 We know that here, as well as throughout Europe and the United States, it is alleged that these proccediugs of the Chiueso Government are fraudulent and evasive ; but we fail to find evi- dence of fraud, nor can we divine a motive for it. It is not to bo furgotten that persecution of Christian missionaries, and especially persecution of lloman Catholic is not exclusively confined to the Chinese. The Roman Catholic Church, with its high ecclesiastical pretensions, its mouastical institutions, and its denial of tlie right of judgment by individual conscience, has come into conflict not only with the pagan systems of Asia, but witli the eidightened civilization of the age. Here, as in Euroi)e and the United States, it has fallen, liowever undeservedly, under pojndar suspicion in two forms : first, a suspicion of political usurpation, that is to say, of an attempt to establish imj)e}''k(m in inq^rw ; second, the sus- picion of impurity of morals in celibate life. In wliich of the Western nations has the conflict between that Cluu'ch and those who dissent from it been carried on without occasional riot, massacre, and martyrdom — not to speak of the religious wars which att-jnded the Protestant Ileformation ? In what Western nation did a government ever otter more etlective or liberal reparation than that which the (Jhinesc Government has given in this case? It is not to be expected that the Protestant countries in the AYest, which have suppressed monastic institutions, and sc(piestered ecclesiastical estates, will symjmthize with demands of France that shall go beyond a guarantee of rights and privileges for all Christians in China. Missionaries of all sects ouglit to re- member that, where the Gospel comes, there "it must needs be that oll'oncos come," nor should they forget that the command, "(^o ye, therefore, and teach all nations," was accompanied by the warning injunction, not less sublime than the command itself, " Behold, I send you forth as slieep in the midst ot wolves ; be yc therefore wise as serpents and harmless as doves." iVoirmher IS^A. — One of the most important incidents of our sojourn hero was reserved for this morning. This was an interview with Mr. Ivobert Hart. Can any thing be more capricious than 15 I; "\ C *j 214 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. international politics? The British and French allies, after havino- pressed the empire to the verge, found it necessary all of a sudden to strike hands with the Government in its war with the rebels, in order to prevent a complete dissolution of society. With their aid, the Government effectually suppressed the rebellion. Then canio the question of reimbursements and indemnities to be paid to the allies. The revenue system of China had become corrupt and effete. The Imperial Government could guarantee nothing. In this difficult conjuncture, a happy expedient was hit upon. The Government, with assurances of protection by Great Britain and France, consented to reorganize its customs revenue upon a Em-o- pean basis, and confide it to the management of a European skilled in finance, who, with a staff of his appointment, half Chinese and half European, should fix a uniform rate of duties on foreign im- ports, collect them, pay the stipulated indemnities to the allies, and the surplus into the imperial treasury. That functionary, under the official title of inspector-general, is Mr. Itobert Hart. While the internal revenue system of China remains in a distracted and dilaj)- idated state, he has brought the customs department into a flourish- ing condition. He returned only to-day from a journey of inspec- tion of the open ports in distant parts of the empire. We found him a far-seeing and able statesman, having in finance, at least, something of the scope and capacity of Alexander Hamilton. Jhit we reserve further remark on this system until we shall have studied its workings in the central and southern ports of the empire. A letter from our old friends Chi-Tnjen and Sun-Tajen. If there is a discrepancy between their names as known to us and their autograph cards, it will be understood that the word " Tajen," which is affixed to their names, is a designation of rank, and not a proper name. Mr. Seward is here addressed, not by that name, but as Sew-Tajen. " To William 1 1. Si: ward — " SiK : We arrived in Peking yesterday, from Tion-Tsin, and had earnestly desired to hasten to you, in order to express to you our great pleas cecdingly bois are altogether to submit a no ourselves befor and procure a i must be done court usage to ceremony, evei could hardly d( " We sincer for r^' your g troublesome to where they wil " We wish 1 November 1 the legation ; residing iu Pc sedan-chaii - an ing a letter was " To William " Sir : I Inn from your tri]> foreign office, a the United Stnt " I hope thi " I bog to u Autograph " Pri> " YlIN " Was LETTER FROM PRINCE KUNG. 215 our great pleasure. But the trip up from Shanghai has been ex- ceedingly boisterous, making us very sick and giddy, so that we are altogether exhausted. Furthermore, we have not yet been able to submit a note requesting that we may be permitted to prostrate ourselves before the throne, and inquire for his Majesty's health, and procure a short leave of absence from the foreign office, which must be done through Prince Kung It would be contrary to court usage to make a visit to you before having complied with that ceremony, even if we were not so completely prostrated that we could hardly do so, in a proper manner. " We sincerely wish to repair to your residence to thank you for p^' your generous and loving acts, which were so great and troublesome to you. But they are indelibly graven on our hearts, where they will remain forever. And how can we forget them ? " We wish that your happiness may never cease. (Cards) " Cnin-KAXG, "SuN-CuiA-Kun." Rovemher \Wi. — On the 17th, international dinner and ball at the legation ; on the IStli, received visits from the foreign ladies residing in Peking, and, our time here growing short, we took sedan-chaii - and returned the visits on the same day. This even- ing a letter was received from Prince Kung. " To William II. Sewakd, etc. '• Sir: I have just heard that you and your party have returned from your trip to the country, and I have, with the officers of the foreign office, arranged to visit you to-morrow, at one o'clock, at the United States legation. " I hope this hour av'^I be agreeable to you all. " I beg to wish you daily peace." Autograph cards enclosed : " Prince Kung, " yuno-suin, *' Was-Ciiang-iii, " Pasyun, " ClIIN-KlOSIFAW, (ll 'Ysu JNO-LUN May the clouds give you lucky omens. The stars assure you 'lappiness and long life. The opening flowers presage wealth and honors, And the bamboo tube [the mail-bag] only And always bring you tidings of peace!" Repeating and rehearsing these several kindly sentimenft, they rose, took the hands of Mr. Seward and the admiral into their own, bade them farewell, and retired. Novcmher Vist. — General Ylangally again entertained us Avith a breakfast at his pleasant legation. PRESENTS from: TITE MINISTERS OF STATE. 221 This morning four mandarin chairs and six carts, with an un- usual retinue of coolies, appeared at the legation. A messenger delivered to Mr. Seward the cards of the several Ministers of State, including one of "Wan-Siang, together with a present, of which they left the following inventory : One pair of vases. One pair of enamelled eagles. One pair of double-enamelled vases. One pair of carved scarlet lacquer boxes. One pair of enamelled fish-jars. Eight pieces of silk, of various colors. Mr. Seward inquired of Mr. Low what would be a proper form of acknowledgment. lie replied : '• You cannot decline the present. You can only send your card in return, and pay a Mexican dollar to each coolie. Less than this you would be unwilling to do. It would be thought disrespectful to do more." The American and British missionaries, residing at Peking, parsed the afternoon with Mr. Seward. They leave on the minds of our whole party an impression that they are earnest, true, and good men and women. The labor which they are performing in this benighted land fully justifies the Christian charity which has sent them hither. Ever since we came here, Mr. Seward and Admiral Hodgcrs have been diligently laboring to ascertain the feasibility of a return of our party by way of the Imperial Canal. The Government has caused a report to be made to them on that subject. This paper describes many breaches of the canal, but represents them as under- going repair. The Government would provide for our security in the journey, but no shorter period than three weeks would suffice to make it in boats, while there would be many and long land port- ages. It is almost certain that, within that time, it will be rendered impassable by ice. The canal-voyage is therefore given up, though not without much reluctance. CIIAPTEE XI. THE RETURN TO SHANGHAI. Once more on the Pei-ho. — The Ladies at Ticn-Tsin. — Tlic Shan Tung. — Pigeon Englisli. — Tempestuous Weather. — Visit to the Flag-ship Colorado. — Departure of Mr. ami Mrs. Randall. — On board the Plymouth Rock. Tung-C1iO\L\ Noveiniber 226Z. — How could we describe in writing,' the parting at tlie legation, which allowed of no ntterance ! Time, it seems, is not money in junk-navigation. We find at Tung-Chow that our flotilla of little vessels, without a word of engagement or promise on our part, had waited nineteen days. It has been speedily manned and victualled. Its sails are already spread, our flags are unfurled, and we are once more afloat on the Pei-ho. The weather is very cold, but the downward voyage to Ticn-Tsin requires only forty hours. Tien-Tsln, Noveniber 2S(L — Could anybody ask a safer convoy on a river-voyage than a rear admiral ? Could anybody, needing protection on such a voyage, do a wiser thing than trust such a convoy ? " All's well that ends well ; " but, could there be a better joke than that which has occurred to us, under the practice of these prin- ciples ? Boat ^o. 2, bearing the two ladies, accidentally separatiu;;,' from the fleet during the night, came up to the draw-bridge at Tien-Tsin this morning, not only two hours before No. 4 and the other boats, but even three hours before the flag-ship of our gallant "PIGEON-ENGLISII." 228 convoy. There is not only a time for every thing in this world, but there is also a place for it ; but, for those timid adventurers, those two hours were not the tinie^ and Tien-Tsin, with its murky atmosphere, stolid crowds, and horrible associations of massacre, was certainly not the place. Fortunately, the officers of the Ashue- lot found them, oj^ened the way through the draw-bridge, took them on board their ship, and seated them, shivering as thoy were, before a fire in their comfortable cabin. The deck is completely enclosed with bunting — the flags of all nations — and is prepared for a ball in honor of our arrival. The same considerations, which counselled us to self-denial on our up- ;vard way, determined us to forego the pleasing compliment. Thanks to Mr. Beebe, of the house of Russell & Company, for the welcome and comfortable quarters, Avhich we so much needed, after the cold river-voyage. Thanks for his pleasant dinner, and tlianks to Mr. Seward and good Admiral Rodgcrs for lowering their voices after the ladies had left the table, and to the whole party for treading so lightly as they retired for the night. Thanks, more fervent than all others, to the hicky star which has brought our nice, little, rolling Shan Tung, and her spirited Yankee Captain ILiwes, back from Shanghai, just in time to meet us here and con- vey us to that destination. Our last voyage on the Yellow Sea, and her last voyage for the season. If ^ '% Tahn, November 24:th. — On board the Shan Tung, waiting to pross the bar. Would anybody care to have an explanation of wliat is called '■ pigeon-English ? " To the visitor, on his arrival here, it seems an unnecessary and puerile affectation. But this is a mistake. !N^ative agents, servants, and factors, must be employed. They do not understand any foreign language, and foreign residents cannot learn Chinese. A dialect is needed for mutual communica- tion, but it may be limited to the vants of commerce and service. As "charity shall cover a multitude of sins," so in this dialect, one English word is made to cover a variety of things. " Pigeon," to the Chinese ear, means, not the dove, but " business." " Pigeon- English," therefore, means " business-Engli:)h." A few generic mi '■* 224 JAPAN, CIIiyA, AND COCHIN CHINA. names, without number, gender, or case, and a very few active and auxiliary verbs, witiiout variation of mood or tense, eon.stitute tlic whole vocabulary. " AVill this horse kick T' In |)i,ii:con-Eniijli>Ii^ " Horse make kick 'i " " Ask the consul to come here." In i)irnment has oi-ganized an army for immediate Avar, and that Prince Kung refused to re- ceive or meet Mr. Seward in any way ? Dccemher hth. — Yesterday, Mr. Seward, attended by many friends, visited the admiral's flag-ship. Arriving in the harbor of Woo-Sung, we proposed to go directly from our little yacht on board the Colorado. No such hasty proceeding as this, how- ever, could be allowed. The whole ship made gorgeous display of national colors. The etaft-offlcers, in brilliant uniforms, Avero afloat in her steam-launch, and other boats awaiting us. Seamen and marines were ranged on the deck. Six hundred otBcers and men, in regulation attire, were drawn up in line. Our now familiar acquaintances, tlto band, with their brass instruments blazing in the burning sun, stood on the quarter-deck ; and in front of them all was the admiral, tall, erect, and commanding, lie waved us a cordial and graceful welcome. The staff camo alongside, and informed us of the admiral's request that Mr. Sew- ard would remain on the yacht until the party should have been conveyed by the launches to the Colorado. And so it was done. When the party had been assigned proper places, Mr. Seward, coming over the bulwarks, was received by the admiral ; the marines presented arms, the seamen saluted, the guns poured forth a salvo, and the band played " Hail to the Chief! " The officers Avcro then severally presented to Mr. Seward. Then followed an inspection of the ship, which displayed the usual good order of an American man-of-war. A feast was spread in the cabins, to Avhich wo all sat doAvn. The band continued playing until the last guest retired from the table. In taste for articles of virUi, the admiral rivals his professional confrere, the Duke of Edinburgh. Here avo note, by w-ay of s »' ft. A 226 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. parenthesis, in China, whicli is the country of porcehain, that his Wedgwood ware is the finest in the world. A voyage under the soft moonlight brought us to the compound at two o'clock. Mr. and Mrs. Randall, greatly to our regret, being recalled home, we part with them here.' Shangh ', Deeetnber 1th. — ^We are preparing for an excursion on the Yanff-tse-kianar. The admiral and ofiicors took final leave of us to-day. After a pleasant dinner with Mr. and Mrs, Fraser, we repaired, at eleven o'clock, on board the steamer Plymouth Iloek. On hoard ilie Plymouth Each, December Sth. — After all, there is somethins: in a name. Ph mouth Rock, a name identified with the civiliz;.tion of America, now employed to signalize an American regenci'ation of China ! Laboulaye has written an ingenious book describing Paris in America. AViiy shall we not, in ours, illustrate the United States in Cliina ? The Plymouth Rock was built in our own country, and is owned, managed, and sailed, by our countrymen. Such a prom- enade-deck can be found on the great rivers and lakes at home ; but sue', a cabin, such a table, such baths, and such beds, can be found nowiicre. Te knew, when wo looked about this morninir, that no Chinese steward, nor maid-servant, if there be any such, nor any American or European steward or stewardess, had ar- ranged these homelike comforts. Though we saw no woman, wc knew, not only that a woman had been here, but that she lives here. The captain's wife, Mrs. Simmons, is absent for only a day or two. The Hudson and the Mississippi are the only rivers in the world where steamers carry as heavy freights as on the Yang-tsekianj^. If the monopoly of this navigation by our countrymen serves to ex- tend our national influence in China, it at the same time illustrates the absurdity of thctfcar that the Chinese interest will become an intrusive or dangerous element in the United States. ' Aiiliuni, JhJij 20, 1872. — We record with deep sorrow the death of Mr. Randall. lie closed a life of' eniincnt public service nnd piivatc virtue, at liis lesidcucc iu Elinira, yesterday, after his return to that place from a visit to Mr. Seward, here. CHAPTER XII. UP THE YANG-TSE-KIANG. The Mississippi of China.— Ching-Kiang. — Large Frciglits. — Nanliing. — Tlie Porcelain Tower. — A Specimen Briclt. — Abundance of Game. — Scenery on tlie River. — Ku- Kiaug. — Conversation witli Mr. Drew. — Policy of the United States. — Ilan-Kow. — Ascent of the Promontory. — Magnificent View. — Cheerful Aspect of Uau-Kow. — Excursion to Wco-Cliang. — A Disagreeable Adventure. Decernbev ^th. — The Yan<;-tse-kiang has its sources in the moun- tains of Thibet, side by side with those of rivers wliich flow tlirougli 8iam, Ikirmah, and Ilindostan, into tlie Bay of Bengal. In reach- iiii; the Pacitic, it traverses the central region of China, a distance of nineteen hundred miles, which the sinuosities of its course lengthen to three thousand miles. Though this navigation may not bo longer than that of the Mississippi River, extended by the Missouri River, the Yang-tse-kiang greatly surpasses the great American river in depth, breadth, and volume. Often, in its course, it spreads into broad bays or lakes, and, losing its own niune, takes on local ones, just as the mighty St. Lawrence does. In a distance of eighty miles from the sea, the river gradually shrinks from a breadth of some thirty miles t.) that of one mile — the banks level, densely inhabited, and perfectly cultivated. • At midnight we fastened at the wharf of Ching-Kiang, the fiouthern terminus of the Imperial Canal. This popidous and iini)ortant town was nearly destroyed during the Ta-ping rebel- lion. The merctiry had gone down to twenty-eight degrees. A heavy dew was fallin.g. It was no time to go ashore. Our captain I 228 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. left on the wharf three thousand boxes and bales of merchandise consisting of sugars from Southern China, and British manufac- tured goods and opium from India — a large freight, consideriii(» that the steamer is one of a daily line, and that the river is at every point crowded with junks. It looks quite like home to see the numerous and immense timber-rafts floating down from native forests in Thibet. What product does China need to make herself self-sustaining ? The banks above Ching-Kiang rise to a height of one thousand feet. Nanking, on the south side of the river, is in an amphitheatre formed by those hills. This city has historical interest as the capital PBIDOE AT NANKING, AMD POBCKLAIN TOWEB REFORR ITS DESTnUOTION, of the empire before the conquest of Kublai-Khan ; afterward it was occasionally the residence of the Ming emperors. Nanking became famous, still later, as a commercial centre, and rcniMiiied so until the period orable as the va carried the civil the Porcelain Tc iiig emerald, an looked upon Nai bellishment of t workl. But all lion, which endei It seems aim feci for civil wa invariably })rodui dated wall, is litt (inly recognized commerce, but tl land passengers. a large brick whi Seward, thankinf] " One of the who, having a ho as a sample ; bu tliankful for a re Game is one over your head a dozen ji'ieasan (if fowls in Was son, or hare, thai luals affect the here due to the sc Dcceml)cr \{H the river flows s\ lains, one called this strait the ri blufl's like those higher, another _< 16 CITY OF NANKING. 229 until tbo period of steam-navigation. Last of all, it became mem- orable as the vantage-ground from which the Ta-ping insurgents carried the civil war to the walls of Pelving. The pagoda called the Porcelain Tower, which, with its nine successive roofs of seem- ing emerald, and the golden apple on its summit, at that time looked upon Nanking, was justly admired, not only as a chief em- bellishment of the great city, but as one of the wonders of the world. But all this glory has passed away. The Ta-ping rebel- lion, which ended only in 18G4-, proved destructive to Nanking. It seems almost enough to excuse the dread which all nations fed for civil war, when we contemplate the devastation which it invariably produces. Nanking, within its fifteen miles of dilapi- dated wall, is little else than a desolation. The Porcelain Tower is only recognized by its dtlris. The port is not open to foreign commerce, but the Government permits steamers to receive and land passengers. A friend who came on board ])resented us with a large brick which he has taken from the ruined pagoda. Mr. Seward, thanking him for it, said : " One of the minor Greek poets ridicules as a simpleton a man who, having a house to sell, went about showing one of its bricks a? a sample ; but, insomuch as the Porcelain Tower is gone, I am thankful for a relic of it." Game is one of the marvels of the country. On the river it is over your head and under your feet — everywhere. You may buy a dozen p^ioasants, ducks, or snipe, for less thaji the price of a ])air (if fowls in Washington Market. You pay less for wild-boar, veni- son, or hare, than for veal or nmtton at home. Do these wild ani- mals affect the society of semi-barbarian man, or is the abundance here due to the great productiveness of the soil i Dccemler lOt/i. — Two hundred and fifty miles above Nanking, the river flows swiftly through a narrow gorge between two moun- tains, one called the Eastern, the other the AVcstern ]*illar. Above this strait the river winds, and is flanked on the right bank by liliifls like those of the Mississippi atul IMissouri ; a hundred miles hit its Government stipend, the congregation is \inablc to support ii pastor. Prayers were read by a Wesloyan missionary, an amateur choir singing the beautiful chants and hymns in an admirable manner. Decemher \1tli. — In onr exploration, yesterday afternoon, we found that, although " some things can be done as well as other.*," there is, nevertheless, a "right way and wrong way" of doiii;ailant. The enemy had, however, lied in consteraation from the hill, and it remained to us only to exchange congratulations upon our escape from a common danger. Though the pe()j)le sur- vounded us in masses, which rendered our passage through the narrow streets tedious and difficult, they made no expression or sign of unkindness or disrespect. Mr. Seward regards the assault not as one of design or deliberation, but as the un])reme(litated and wanton act of rude and mischievous idlers. Nevertheless, tlic gentlemen at Ilan-Kow have aaJfessed the Taou-tai on the subject. Departure from TIr.r ('anal, — Approa< down a .Iiink.— — Enibaik on ai Steamer Ph^ left the wharf at iiii; to Shanghr lost to us by ni; Kow are low a mountains crow DeccDiher !•: approached Ku that we gatherc which we were certain tall n.i ji;la/.ed crowns va^'cs and two frieiuls at horn miliou, the otli At Zuakiuij; willi a cupola of each ornam military school CHAPTER XIII. RETURN TO SHANGHAI. Departure from TTr.n-Kow. — Chinese Military Art. — A Marvellous Echo. — The Imperial Canal. — Approach to Chin-Kiaiig. — The United Stated Steamer Alasku. — llunning down a Junk. — An Apology from the Viceroy. — The Comprador. — Chinese Ladies. — Embark on an Knglish Steamer. Steamer Phjmouth liocJc, Yang-tse-hiang., Decemher \Zth. — Wo left the wharf at Ilan-Kow at daylight this inoniinf^, and in return- ing to Shanghai wo arc expecting to enjoy, by daylight, the scenes lost to us by night in ascending the river. The banks below Ilan- Ivow arc low and flat, with a city at almost every bend, but the mountains crowd closely on the plain. f ft Dcceinler i\th. — Xight and rain came down upon us as wo approached Ku-lviang, but with only this pleasant consequence, tliat we gathered at the dinner-table in our cabin the merry party which we were to have met on the Ihmd. When they had retired, certain tall natives of the country, of course olive-colored, with da, one hundred feet high, with a cupola of burnished bniss. It has seven verandas, the roof of each ornamented with bright, tinkling bells. At its base is a iiiilitary school. 1 242 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Certiiinlv lailitarv nrt, the Avoi-ld over, deliirlits in fine coliu'c; loud noises, and nuu-h detnonstration. In tlie AVest, however, wu are ;ihatin^ color and noise, while we study to increase force. In China, thev reverse this. They do not improve their engines and weapons; tliey make greater noise with their gongs and a more dazzling display of yellow and red in their uniforms and flags than ever. Naval junks meet us everywhere on the river. Though diminutive in size, and carrying ordnaiu-e of the smallest cali])ro, their hunting surpasses that of a Hudson Eiver steamer going to celebrate the Schiitzenfest, We have just passed a mountain-gorge which has a marvellnus echo, When we entered the pass, the reverberations were single. Passing on, the shrill notes of the steam-whistle came back to us prolonged and louder. Farther on, the mountains gave us back two distinct sounds for each one they received ; afterward three, four, five for one. It was the perfection of ventrilo(]uism. The sounds were articulate; they seemed to come through the earth; sometimes sonorous, at others soft and plaintive, always iniprc:" sive and mournful. Chin-Klang, Dcccmhcp 'ifyf/i. — Anchoring oif the left ]nm\i. of the river in very deep Avater, and taking the ship's boats, we made an entrance, not v.ithout dilHculty, into the Imperial Canal, Take its story briefly, to understand better what little we saw: Built in the thirteenth century, it is a monument e(|ually of the greatness and of the wisdom ol" Kul)lai-Khan, Its length is ,-i.\ liundred and fiftv miles, nearlv twice that of the Erie Canal. Ho- signed for irrigation as well as navigation, it vai'ies in width fmni two liundred feet to two thousand feet. It is not, like our canals, built by excavation, but with artilicial dikes raised on an alluvial soil, its banks and bottom paved and cemented. Instead of locks, there are inclined planes. Every abutment, flood-gate, and 1>ri(l:ii', is of s(did grainte masonry. The ]iii|)erial Canal, like the Kv'w Canal, is not an isolated channel, but only the nuiin artery of a system of artificial navigation, the aggi'egatc length of \\\\o-v parts is four thousand miles, while they })enetrate every ((iic l!^;r:f'':S'^ii :''|;. ,: W^- I*: '/.fv,,: '; : I'' ' -^mi::\M^- colors, er, ^v(J e. Ill es iuid L nuire js than 'lioiiu'h .•alil)re, oing tit •vollttus ' t^iiiifle. k to us us back 1 throe, II. The 3 earth; impres- tank of ,ve made wo saw : of the h is >ix ah De- 1th tVnia r canals, alhivial di' locks, 1 hrul,-.', the Krie [vvy "'t' a )t' whii-c crv one I u to u (f) CO u 244 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. of the eigliteen provinces of the empire. The canal is compactly crowded with junks. We couUl not make our way into it a yard's length, without Maiting for a movement of the vessels for our accommodation. Our appeals to the boatmen for this courtesy were not unkindly received, though tlu^ result was a scene of wild and noisy disturbance. "We soon became con- vinced that, in our small boats, we were in danger of being crushed between junks, even though nothing should occur to pro- duce misunderstanding or disturbance. We returned, therefore, to the shi[)'s deck, as cautiously as possible. In that position we traced the course of the canal " high," though not " dry," above ground four miles. The shipping through that distance wao as dense as at the mouth. The offices of the managers and toll-col- lectors cover the banks, Avhile an armed fleet rides at the mouth of the canal to prevent piracy and smuggling. We learn here that obstructions render the canal impassable for the aggregate extent of one hundred and lifty miles. Even the navigable portions are so much injured as to float only small vessels. The largest we saw aro of one huu'lred and flfty tons burden. Three months ago, when a foreign war Avas apprehended, an engineer subnutted to the Government a project for restv^ring the navigation, but elicited no reply. There is little doobt that the canals of China, the most successful and mac-nificcnt svstem of in- ' til/ land navigation the world has ever seen, are falling into dscay and rum The approach to Chin-Kiang is very picturesque. It stands on a semicircular bay — the western entrance guarded by (lolden Isl- and, on which stand a Buddhist temple and a ])agoda — the easti ni entrance by Silver Island, its undulating surface embellished with tea-houses and villas, December IH^A, 4 o'elocl', — Wo are passing from the brressiiig our !•(_.<, passed the bar. tlag-shij) before streamers fiying, every yard fullv THE CHINESE COMPRADOR. 241 >tn(ly our drosses and ornaments, as well as the furniture and arti- (k's of vertu in tlic driiwing--ro(»m. AVlien they luid exhausted those on the first-Uoor, they desired to explore the second story. The grand stairway is broad and easy, but, as all these women have tiny feet, each re(|uired a stnmi; arm in makiui; the ascent, but that nuist not be a man's arm. The ladies, therefore, oifered theirs, and " such a getting up-stairs, you ne\x'r did see ! " It would have liecii amusing, if it had not been reallv dangerous. After a thorough and minute inspection of the ujtper part of the house, they descended the staircase with much nervous a})prchension. They then listened wonderingly to our music on the piano-forte. Calling, then, for their gorgeous sedan-chairs, they retired, doubt- less to describe, to their small-footed and long-fingered friends, the mysteries and absurdities of AVestern fashions. During their entire visit, the comjjrador had directed the movements of his wives and children with all the vigilance and conscious superiority of a tur- key-cock. As we assisted the W(tmen, or rather carried them in our arms, up and down the staircase, bright-eyed, gentle, and sweet- v.iiccd indeed, but dwarfed, distorted, and enslaved, their de- l»cndence was touching. AVe had not before realized the depth of the abasement of women in China. % Steamer Tmvancore, China Sea, Deccinher 22(r7. — Many friends ntteiuled us to the steamer, and kiiullv signals were made to us from halconies, the consulate, and the shipping in the harbor. Kor the first time in our travels, we are on a foreign deck. The Travancore, named froni a ])rovince in British India, on the coast (if Malabar, belongs to the " Peninsular and Oriental " line of sti'aiucrs, usually abbreviatod the " P. and O." The familiar berth of the Colorado, at Wusnng, was vacant. She had sailed, an hour before, for Nagasaki. AVe were still ex- pressing our regret that we were to see her no more, when we passed the bar. Staiuling southerly, however, wc saw the majestic tla;;-sliip before us, at rest in the open sea, with all her flags and stivauicrs flying, the admiral and officers on the quarter-deck, and uvcrv yard fullv nuinned. Three hearty cheers greeted us from her 4 U I » 1 248 JAPAN. CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. six hundred seamen, her colors dropped, officers and men sahitoi] us, and the faithful band gave us for farewell the same old national air with which it had greeted us on coming into Chinese waters. The Ti'avancore lowered her fiag.s, and every officer and passeiitrci joined us in acknowledging the kind and loyal demonstration of the Colorado. SCENE UN TUE LMPEUIAL CA2n. f vollt)W C'liiiit'ise; Hindoos, iiliiiosl hair; and stroi South Africa. less diverse. Muhaininedans. ut' tiiitli, as well dress as on slu week-days, wliic ton trousers an^ sashes, and tnrl eiuhroidered, scf white shirts, an the iJjaycst of eo The ship's a( of the Puc'itic '^. Tlu)ulexi(ni. Of Europeans tliero are none; besides the li^-lit- vi'IIdw Chinese, there are the darker ^lalays ; small but aetive lliiidoos, aliiuist bhiek, with pert'eet Caucasian features and eurliiij^ luiir; and strun^ly-built, heavy-featured, coal-bhu-k ne<::r()es from South Africa. The langiuiii;es and religions of the crew are not less diverse. There are I>raniins, Buddhists, Confucians, and Muhannnedans. AVhile uniform discipline is enforced, ditferenco of faith, as well as of diet and costume, is tolerated. The Chinese dress as on shore. The Hindoos wear a gay cotton blouse, on week-days, which they exchan<^c on holidays for tijj;htly-titting cot- ton trousers and blouses of the same material, scarlet or crimson gaslies, and turbans. The Hindoo boatswain adds to this a gilt- embroidered, scarlet vest. The Malays wear calico pantaloons, with white shirts, and the negroes, here as everywhere else, indulge in the gayest of colors. The ship's accommodations do not compare fiivorably with those of the Pacitic Mail Line, but here disparaging criticism must end. Though the table is frugal, the wines and provisions arc of the best, and the linen is unimpeachable. The service is punctual, and the otiieers and seamen are courteous and watchful. 11 t 11' ':;:!,; Ill I ITong-Kong, December 2(jth. — IIong-Kong is an island, which Great Britain has conquered, and commands the entrance of Canton. It rises more abruptly from the water than the island of St. Thomas in [he West Indies. We anchored at three o'clock yesterday. There is far less sliipping here than at Shanghai. The terraces which wind around die hill-sides show distinctly in bold outline every dwelling and structure of the European town, which, as Avell as the foreign ships in the harbor, w\as yesterday gayly decorated Avith flags and Christ- mas-greens. We were received by Mr. Murray Forbes, representa- tive here of Russell & Company, at Kee-Chung, the name of their princely house. We founi fire on the hearth, the first which has been kindled this season, and the people here are rejoicing in hav- ing escaped at last the intense heat of summer. We make these memoranda, sitting in a deep window of this great, old-fashioned r 252 JAPAN, CUINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. dwelling, shadowed by the mountaiii-suiniuit, while an unclouded morning sun brings the town below into broad relief, and beyond it the deep, blue bay dotted with diverae shipping. A high, rod, rocky coast bounds the prospe t. Inuigine such a picture as we have tried to i)resent, seen as we are seeing it through a frame- work of palmetto, banyan, camphor, and acacia trees, and you have Hong-Kong. December 'i'th. — Resting, Mr. Seward has exchanged visits witii the Governor of IIong-Kong, and the United States consul, Mr. Bailey. AVe are renewing old acquaintances with countrymen and countrywomen. Our departure for Singapore is lixed for the 3d of January. We need, therefore to improve our few remain, ing days in China. The British found five thousand natives on the north end of the island. Under the rule of Great Britain, they are now a busy and prosperous community, nund)ering forty thousand engafred in trade and the fisheries. The foreign population is perhaps one thousand. TBADtNO-JtJNK. OHAPTER XV. FROM nONG-KONG TO CAXTOX. The Chinese Coastinf^-Tnule. — Chinose Smugfilers. — Canton Rivoi-nanks. — Aspcet of Canton. — Tlio liritish Concession. — Tiio Anicriean Ilonp.s. — Tlie Consul and tlio Taoti-tai. — Tlie Diet of the Cantonese. — Manufactures of Canton. — The Temples of Canton. Canton, Dcccmhcp 2f>th ; Steamer Kin-San. — Aiucricuii side- wlieol steamers carry the foreign coasting-trade between Ilong- Koiig and Macao westward, IIong-Kong and Canton northward, and Hong-Kong, Swatow, Aiuoy, Xing-po, and Foo-Choo, on the eastern coast. "We occnpied, with two friends, the saloon and ni)pcr cabins of the Kin-8an, wliile the hiwer deck bore four hnndred Chinese, cliictly traders, who i)ay a fare of a IMexican dollar for a voyage of ninety miles. The pnrser brought us the box which contained the collection of dollars for this vova2;e. Many were rejected. The coins were genuine, but almost every piece had been clipped. The deliciency was made up in " cash." From the deck, we noticed a native trader, who at intervals advanced to the bulwark, and threw into the Avator small bunches of hay and straw. Wo observed that, in every ca.- . natives rowed from the shore in small boats, and picked up this refuse. Our friends, who knew the trick, informed us that the bunules of hay and straw contained packages of opium. Another trader dropped a sealed bottle into the river, A jiartncr, who was waiting on the bank, took it up and found in it the prices 254 JAPAX, CIIIXA, AND COCIIIX CHINA. current of o]>iuin at London. SmuirgHng wears only this tliln coverintj in (,'lnna. Onr course for forty-five miles — half our vovaije — lay amonir p(>a- islands, ^'ivin^harvcs passengers in immense numbers from all parts of the empire. The inventive talent, as well as the frugality of the Chinese, is in nothing more eons]>icuous than in the provision which is made for these wayside travellers. There are blocks and streets of gnyly-painled and deco- rated fl(»ating inns or taverns, shops i'or supplyirg all wants with- out the delay and cost of going ashore. Our passaj','e th"ough these wimling streets and alleys gave us some odd revelations of marine life. All manner of domestic occupations are carried o\\ without fear of annoyance, or affectation ot" privacy. (Jhins j^ro shaveu, (pieucs arc ])laited, dinners arc cooked and served, clothes are niado, washed, and mended, children are dressed, whipped, and ])iit to II. Seward, f( THE Tor-TArs note. 255 liL'il, tliiit is to say, laid on a niiit and fastened with a cord aivound tliL'ir waists, and tied to a mast to keep them from falling overboard. Kvcn ''iield- sports" arc not wanting. A favorite exercise of this kind is the chase of the wharf-rat. "We saw one caught, skinned, ^jiitted, and i)ut on charcoal. This amusement is pursued chiefly l.v Women and children. The ilshing with cormorants is a vocation vl' a large class. ()ur party had no sooner reached shore, than it broke into fac- tions. The younger members extemporized a guide and boat, cntssed tlie river, and were soon lost in studying carved ivory, t-licll, and sandal-wood boxes, pagodas and toilet-cases, and orna- iiieuts of gold, silver, jas})er, and jade. Mr. Seward, more politic, visited the British Concession. If they found the fabrics of Canton iiKirc e.\(piisite than they had imagined, he found the f(jreign settle- ment more spacious and elegant than the peoph> of Shanghai and Jlong-Kong allow it to be. There are thirty or forty spacious t'oreign hongs, an ]"][)iscopal church, built of white marble, and a (liib-liouse with a good libraiy and l)illiard-room ; on the bank, a jn'oiuenade, handsomely-ornamented with gardens, wliich rejoices in the name of Cha-min (rfand-face). The American houses, Knssell vfc Comjiany and Smith, Archer ul;ir jealousy. Canton is a sphinx, serenely indulging in calm recollections, and seeming to smile with e(pial contentment on time and change. AVi; have interrogated it. How shall we be able to record its responses. The city covers a very large plain. Some of the streets are Uii feet wide, they average seven; all irregular and without a plan. They are travelled chiefly on foot, but almost everywhere sedan- chairs can be used. Paved Avith Hat granite blocks, the sewerage is concealed, and in this one Chinese city there is no want of publ' cleanliness. An untidy person is as rarely seen in the streets hei as a tidy one in the streets of Peking or llan-Kow. Occasionally, we passed a dwelling, pnlatial in its dimensions and end)ellishment, but, generally speaking, the city ju'esents nu-rely a mass of shojis. The floors are on a level with the streets, the houses without veran- das or porches, and entirely open in front. 1'he buildings arc narrow, usually of one story, often twenty feet high, and carh has an attic. It is a Chinese ]n'ovorb tliat " ill-luck follows ridge- benms which connect with each oilier in a c<»ntinuons line." Hence tlu) roofs are (»f uneipial height, and the boards which jmo- ject from them over the streets, to i)rotect travellers from the smi ami rain, are irregularly ])laced. Tlu; material of the fragile walls is dark-brown brick. Every one knows that the Chinese write from right to left, and in downward columns. The sign-boards, painted pro- o w tn r I - i 258 JAPAX, CIIIXA, AXD COOIHN CVlllA. ill ricM vermilion or gilded on dark blue, iustcnd >; ')(iiur,'li'iri/oiili], luiiig pci'pondit'alarly, everywhere obstructing Mio passenger. Tjio shops are gorgeously ornamented. llelmbold's \ iiteiit-modi-iiie shop on Broadway would not be out of place here. There are no street monumentj?. The streets are often short and curved, they branch at all angles, and sometimes are continued through very narrow gates or mere door-ways. It th'is happens that there is m* long vista, and Canton is a labyrinth, which only one who i< prac- tised therein can thread. It is divided into quarters for the accom- modation of divers kinds of business more completely than any Euroi)ean city. Bankers have their exclusive Wall Streets ; the mercantile shops aro in districts removed from manufactories ; em- broiderers, silk-weuv'ers, cotton-weavers, lapidaries, jewellers, and carvers, have sei)arately their own (piarters. Only vegetables, fruits, iisli, meat, poultry, and game, are dis})layed everywhere. The dwellers in (juiton are epicureans. They have tish from the rivers and lish from the sea — veal, mutton, venison. ;)Igs, kids, ducks, geese, grouse, j)heasants, (piails, and ortolans, Whatevci" they can serve you at the Astor- House, you can command here— ay, more than can be found oi> the Astor- House carte ; for, in the midst of the temj)tiiig display 1 the provision-shoj)?, are seen the carefully-dressed carcasses of infinite rats and unmi:-t:dvab)c twaddles of dogs, while here and there you n(»rice in the shop-windows a ])hicard which announces that "black eat is served hot, at all hours." A decoi tion of sua -■ • ; sold as a medicine. As we were ])assing a small lake, a boy wi our train waded waist-deep ami brought out a water-snake. We urged iiim to tlirow the un- fortunate reptile back, but he declined, and, bruising its head, he l)ut his linger to his mouth by way of informing us that it was to be his supper. Rope is made here by the same process as among us, but a greater variety of materials is used. Besides hemp, they work baml)oo, ratan, and tanned and untanned hides. A primitive i)rocess is resorted to in Ideaching. The operator tiilces clean water by tlie mouthful and spurts it over the fabr'". Calendering is lone as it was in Euroi)e before the invention of LACQli-ER-WARE, 250 liK Jura inachiiiery, Tlic doth is ]);issed under a fetono rolb.r wliich the operative rocks with his toot. The /^lot^s j»rodu^ed is unoiiaalled. "We entered a tlourinu uill — a blinded eow, at the end of a sliat'r, moves eacli of the seven [»airs of stones. The oiieration is perfect, and the fininials seem sound and healthy. The human foot moves the winnowing and boltiiiij; processes. No stranjjer could conceive the excellence or the cheapness of artistic ])roduction. Mr. Seward, fancying a carving of sandal-wood suitable for a door-wav, valued it at three hundred dollars. It was uli'ered him at sixteen I It can hardly be believed that the extensive manufacture of silks in China is carried on without the use of the " Jac(juard " Iduui. The workshop is without a floor. The primitive hand- locin, with the operator's bench, is i)laced in an excavation. They insist here that the moisture of the ground Imparts a ]'<»rcelain gloss to the silk. Silk-cndjroidery is the most important numuiacture. This toilsome and exhausting labor is performed exclusively by men, instead of being devi'lved on delicate women, as in European countries. We bought, at nominal j)rices, articles which Avould have a fabulous value at home. Lac(]uer-ware is made, though less extensively than in Japan. This is the process: A frame of the required article is made of thin wood or veneering perfectly seasoned. This frame is covered inside and out with soft silk-])aper, made to adhere smoothly by use of a u'lutinous solution. AVlicn the paper has perfectly dried, a coating of pulverized granite, mixed in a tine oil, is spread over tl.e surface. This granite i)aste hardens in its turn, and n(»w the process of iac'(|uering begins. The lacquer is a vegetable jince im]>iece ol" this stone, weiiihiui:' live pounds, has tiie dull aitjiearaiice' of a coninioii pchhle. It is sawed into }»hites of the recjuired tliii-k- iiess hy the use of a tine wire nii»\ed by liand. After this, turuiiii;'. lathes and lai)idaries' instruments are eni])luycd. AVith these it i- shaped into tin^er-rin<;s, ear-rinucs, bracelets, ban<::les, buckles, cups, vases, and tlie like. The best jade is that which sliades ironi inilkv white to cli'ar u'reen. We notice that women of the hi^-her class "svoar a hind of orna- ment peculiar to Canton. It consists of a head-dress or cap, brace- lets or fim!,vr-l•in^^s, made of iilaii'ree ,irold, delicately enamelled wiili tlie l)lue kinu'lisiier's feathers, and lieavily studded with pearls and ucms. .\moiic under the tree. In this way they brin<>j the contents of the articles ?o theii-Hcc of the uod for his approval and blcssiui!,'. A\'lieii the eohhv'.i'ts Ii ive been fully ]>erformed, the parties como a<:;ain to the ])resenco of ''le sacred snake, and with solemn reliattern ;ii,'os with a pra Hild to mourner.- lifviiii; that in material substan Of the \)iu\i It is, with its e\i "Ocean IJanner jtcfiii'e. Spacio TEMI'LK OF llONAN. •jt;i uiiliu'ky (tiic. Ill that easi; tlio bones arc cxliumcil and washed in t!ii^ water, and then removed to a more hospitable .sej»;ilchre. Fioni tlii> temple we passed into a loiii^ street in which everv shop-w in- ,1,,\\ is idled with ])ars (»!' bnllion, fans, liats, shot's, and <;arments ,,t ivery pattern cut ti-om fancy-colored ]»a]>er, and ])ut uj) in pack- ai^cs with a pi-ayer impressed on each packet. These parcels are ,(iM to mourners, who l)urn them in incense before the shrine, be- lit\ iui; that in this way they conviv tt» the departed friends the iiKitcrial substances of which thi' paper articles are tlie imitation. Of the Ihiddhist temples, the most celebrated is the llonan. li is, witli its extensive monastery, called also the Temple of the •Oit'an IJanner:*" but why the "Ocean I'anner," we cannot con- litlure. Spacious areas here ai'e o(cuj>icd liy "sacred "' pit^s, goats. 1 " f ;4 I'.MItAM K li> lilK TKMI'LK OK IIONAN 14 2(J2 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. shc'C'i), ^^•ii^'lv^"*', ducks, mul f^cese. Not\vitlit*tau(lin^ the reverential (levotidii wliicli tlio monks show to these animals, the idle boys who luUowed us into the temple took a wicked deli«iht in '' stirring Uj)" the fat, holy swine with ]>ike-staves, and niuking them grunt tnr our entertainment. The monks have separate cloisters, and, hesicks these, one spacious and common hall, which, having undorgmii: some special form of consecration, is regarded as an auspiciou.s (•hand)er for the departure of the soul in death. AVHien a brother's last hour is supposed to be near, he is brought to this chandior. possibly with the unintentional eti'ect of hastening his entrance tn anticipated bliss. Not far from this hajipy death-chandjcr is a sanctified and auspicious charnel-house. The body dej)ositer.a (Klicioiis tea and d 'ied fruits. The brethren showed by their con- viTsation n vague knowledge of foreign countries. They feared that the disasters which have befallen France may encourage Kus* , ill II nggression agaiuisi China. They understand something of tlie tjwat civil war in the United States, and rejoice in its results. While we were thus engaged, a group of ladies exquisitely dressed, aiul havitig the least of all feet, came into the court accompanied by many children. This party was followed by a retinue of well- (h'cssed servants, bearing large ornamented paper boxes, tilled with vuti\e oU'erlngs, paper shoes, fans, and hats, as ])efore described. Tlicy were waiting mtil the nudnight hour, to burn these offerings ill incense for the repose and cheer of deceas<>d ancestors. Although the women nuide no mirthful demonstration, they were aninuited and cheerful, seeming to regard tlie ceremony in which they were engaged rather as a festal than a funereal one. They nuide no advances to us, but ehowed much delight with the caresses we bestowed on their pretty children. At the service, the monks kindly seated Mr. Seward on a wooden hench, the only thing of the kind in the temple, in a good position t^)l^ce the ceremony. The hall of worship is sixty feet s(piare, with a lolty ceiling. In its centre, a gigantic, triple-carved statue, in a sitting ])osture, representing I'uddha in his three " states " — the face locking to the left, symlxtlic of oblivion, o.* the jxhst ,' that looking t'urward, expressive of activity, the jjresc/it : tlie third, looking to the riirlit, contem])lation, or the future. The " Flowery Forest," then, is a temple dedicated to a religion, older than our own, which ]»re- M'lits, in a vague, misty way, two of the principles of the Christian Church: one, the incarnation of the SuprtMiie; the other. His j)res- ititatlon in three persons, one and indivisible. Are these analo- iries merely accidental coincidences, or are they different outgrowths (if the same innate ideas, or are they shadowy forms of a common revelation? The service consisted in a solemn, measured, and de- vuti(»iial intonation of a lon<; and varied liturgv. Cccasionallv, a hell tiidvled, to indicate a chaiige in the order of the prayers. At tliis sound, the monks prostrated themselves, and brought their foreheads t(» the ground. At other times, they changed tlu'ir ;;os- / 1 t f ;- i -1 \ ft ' 264 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. tures toward tlic triune iina, or walked in solemn proecs.sion around it, keeping time to a muilled drum and gony bird. Wliat a contrast is his to the casi' of the gold-lish, only bred and fattened, in the ponds of the teinj)li! of the same god, to become the food of the " holy " stork ! Whatever doubts there may be about the justice of the Chinese claim to the invention of printing, it is pleasant to record that they have done honor to the art of arts by dedicating to it shrines, tablets, and vases of incense. Our survey of the religions institutions closed with a visit to n convent of Buddhist nuns, devoted to the care of the sick. The superior and the sisterhood received us kindly. Although illiterate, they are industrious, tidy, gentle, and prepossessing. They slnnvod us not only the meagre hospital wards, but their own very hunihle cells. After all, cdiarity is an essential element of every religion, and woman is its truest minister throughout the worhl. CHAPTER XVI CANTON ( Vonlin ucd ). A Cliincsc Villa. — The Ilall of Ancestors. — A ('hiiicse Sciiool-Room. — Another Villa. — An Oiiiimi-Den. — Kxtcnt of Opitim-Sitiokinjr. — The Chinese Chronometer. — The Street of MalefaetoTd. — i'he Place ot Execution. — A City of the Dead. — Canton at Night. Canton, Dcccinhcr ?Mh, — Tliis morning, witliout previous invi- tation or notice, onr reverend guide ushered us into tlie villa of a Chinese gentlonmn, Poon-ting-gua. It covers several acres, en- closed with a solid granite wall. Chinese ladies with their children received us graciously. The mansion has a spacious theatre, taste- t'ully uiranged, for [irivate entertainments, many pretty houdoirs, Mild a spacious banqueting-iiall. After this, we visited the still more aml)itious dwelling of the mandarin Lee, now exercising the office of Taou-tai in the province of Cln'n-Kiang. This residence contains a noble Hall of Ancest<>rs, which, although it opens on one side to the sky. resembles very much the old Ileprc tentative Hall in the Capitol at Washington. The Ancestral Hall is the chapel used for daily family worship of the gods, as well as of the ancestors. The hall is pu.ely Confucian in idea. A shrine in the centre supports a tablet on which the names of the ancestors are inscribed. Large crimson banners are suspended from the walls, which contain, in embroidery, their likenesses, as well as those of the family, with heraldic insignia or emblems. The Ancestral Hall, moreover, is the judgment-chand)er or tribunal in which taniily courts are held. At these courts all births are recorded, ■mi. 1 I I ^. t>. ^,„,ir^ .^a:^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. 1.0 I.I ■ 50 '"^" I 40 11-25 11.4 2.5 22 1.8 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ c^^^ V^ &^ <> \ 266 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. marriage-contracts celebrated, and all disputes are adjusted. In anticipation of his last lionr, the head of the house is brought to the Ancestral Hall to die. expecting an unobstructed passage thence POON-TINO-OUA'S VILLA. to the realms above. After his death, his will is published in tlie same chamber. This hall is brilliantly furnished with European lamps, clocks, and mirrors. On the present occasion, the altar or tablet was graced with a porcelain salver, on which rested a cold roast-pig, weighing fifteen or twenty pounds. The dish was flanked with conserves, cakes, and flowers. A daughter of the house, mar- ried three days ago, comes ir, j^rocession to-day, to pay her parting- visit to her family, and these were the ofitrings to ancestors ])ro- vided for the celebration of this important domestic event. At tlic conclusion of the ceremony, in such cases, the oblations are distrib- uted among the servants of the family. CHINESE SCHOOL-ROOM. 267 "We were particularly interested in the school-room, where the boys are educated ; the girls are not educated at all. With its arrangement of tables, desks, black-board, books, and slates, the apartment might be mistaken for a school-room at home. All the pupils read the lessons of every sort aloud, and all at once, and commit them to memory. The pedagogue differs but little, except in dress, from the school-master the world over. The master in this present school is an ingenuous as well as a spirited man. The instrument of his discipline laid on his desk, and he did not hesi- tate to admit that he frequently employs it, belie Ang probably in Solomon's instruction, "he that spareth his rod, hateth his son." The Chinese boys have all the natural manner and modesty of well- bred children. One bright-eyed little lad of eight years, with great reverence, asked Mr. Seward's " honorable age." We were received by another family, in a very spacious villa near the Ilonan. We noticed, with some surprise, here, the it/t- pluvium, rendered so famous by the descriptions of Pompeii. Is it likely that the Chinese have preserved a feature of v iUa architecture which the AVestern nations have lost ? The proprietor and the ladies of his family conducted us through their sumptuous abode, with perfect refinement of manner, betraying not the least shyness or curiosity. The tea-house in Canton holds the place of the ale-house, cafe, or restaurant, in European cities. Rich and poor promiscuously gather there, and are served without respect of persons. In returning from the villa, we opened a narrow door and made our way through a dark passage to a suite of small rooms, faintly liglited from the roof. The seclusion, darkness, and silence of the place, indicated that something furtive was going on there. On either side of a long chamber was a dais divided into sections, in each section two men reclining vis-d-vis — between them a minia- ture table six inches high. We were in an opium-den, and these l^ersons Avcre the victims. Before each of the smokers, on the table, rested a pipe, a tiny opium-pot, and a burning lamp. Here, as in the tea-house, there is no respect of rank or wealth. The poor and the rich lie down together. Each assists the other in the It i a'^ 208 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCniN CniNA. delicate task of ignitino^ the opium, and filling the bowl of the pipo. "VVe spoke to two or three of the smokers, who were only at tlie beginning of the siesta, and received from them respectful and •rentlc answers. We tried in vain to rouse others to consciousness, who were in the stage of blissful revery, although their eyes were OI'IIIM-BMOKEKS. open, and they were sadly smiling. When the smoker recovers from the inebriation, if he has sufficient strength he repairs liome; otherwise, he is removed to another apartment, and remains tliore perhaps twenty-four hours, recovering strength to depart. AVas it OPIUM-SMOKING. 2C0 an imagination of ours tliat the keeper of 'diis hell wore a base and sinister look as he stood behind his counter in a dark closet, sur- rounded by packages of the pernicious drug, Avhieh he weighed out to his customers a pennyweight of opium against a pennyweight of silver ? The books we have read at home, and the discussions we have heard here as well as there, have prepared us to see the disastrous eficct VI upium-smoking on every side in China. The denunciation of the practice Is justified by all-sufficient proof that it is destructive of physical and intellectual energy. Statistics show a vast increase of the consumption of the drug, since its free importation has been allowed. The Chinese Government has given its sanction to the wide-spread denunciation by its persistent and earnest opposition to the opium-trade. We are agreeably disappointed, however, by the absence of evidence of the evil fruits of the practice which we had anticipated. Except in this den where we purposely went to seek the vice and its victims, we have not met, in any part of the country, a person of either sex, or of any age, whose appearance, conversation or conduct, indicated an excessive indulgence. Euro- peans and Americans here agree in representing the practice as wide-spread and pernicious, but, when interrogated concerning their observation, they assure you that they know of a coolie, a house-servant, a mechanic, a clerk, perhaps a trader, who has become inefficient or unreliable by the indulgence. But the best- informed persons agree that cases of this kind are neither more frequent nor more extensive than those of habitual alcoholic intem- perance in the United States. Moreover, we are inclined to think that the cost of the drug, when balanced against the low wages of labor, lifts the abuse beyond the reach of the working-classes. In the matter of the regulation of time, the Chinese do not keep lip with "Western science. There is a tower here devoted to that purpose. Each hour is announced in a printed placard posted on the outer wall. The chronometer, however, which is used in the tower, is a water-clock, the clumsy clcjm/dra of ancient Greece. A branch staircase from the Time-Tower brought us to the government printing-office, which publishes all official documents, I €. t »5!. ft i a 270 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. including a copy of the Peking Gazette. None of our modcM'ii ira])rovements are used. The carving of the wooden type, the spreading of the India-ink over them, the taking of the impression, all arc done by hand. The Chinese Government is based on two fictions : first, that the emperor is the Son of Heaven ; second, tha*- he is the parent of the Chinese people. In harmony with these principles, loyalty t(j the state is inculcated not only as a religious but as a filial duty. But all sentimental fictions are liable to abuse, equally in politics and religion. The code of Draco was not more cruel than the parental discipline of the Chinese empire. Passing by the palace of the Taou-tai, with its ostentatious imperial banners, we turned a sharp corner, and entered a long, narrow, cheerless street. Here, no gay sign-boards or banners relieved the night. The "hops are sombre, and there are few travellers. It is the nialefact jr roud— the street through which the condemned convicts pass, fro.n the palace to the place of execution. It was almost night when mc were admitted, under a strong but low gateway, to a close area a hundred feet long, scarcely more than twenty feet wide ; on one side low stone-buildings ; on the other a high blind wall ; a walk paved with large flat stones in the middle of the court. A potter \vas noiselessly at work shaping vessels, some to be used for re- ceiving the blood, others the hands and feet, and others the heads of the victims. Sometimes only a single execution takes place, but usually short delays are made for the convenience of bringing sev- eral executions together. They vary in number from two to fifty, and, in times of political disturbance or flagrant piracy, fifty and even a hundred executions take place at once. Dr. Grey, avIio has studied Chinese history carefully, is of opinion that no field of battle ancient or modern has witnessed so much violent destruction of human life as this Aceldama. The customary form is decapita- tion. When the condemned come within the gate, they march up the paved walk and take their places, kneeling inward on either side. An imperial oflicer at the upper end of the court reads, in a distinct voice, a rescript of their names, crimes, and sentences. A practised executioner, with a long sword which he wields with both THE CITY OF THE DEAD. 2T1 hands, proceeds dovrn the line. The culprits stretching their necks forward, the executioner, swinging the instniment in continued circles, completely severs a heac' at every blow. The heads fall into vases tilled with lime ; nevertheless the pavement is ])esmeared with blood, and the effluvia rising from this horrible place taint the atmosphere of the most distant parts of the city. We saw crosses leaning ag.iinst the wall, prepared for inflicting punishment in that form, and many baskets, each of which contained a head ready to be transported to the city gates, and to distant parts of the empire. The scene we next visited is one which, although sad and solemn, is touching and beautiful. This is an extensive plain, ornamented with gardens and lakes, fragrant Avith flowers, and musical Math the songs of birds. It is the temporary resting-place of the dead while awaiting — a day or many days, a month or many months, a year or many years — an auspicious tima and place for final interment. This city of the dead is divided into blocks, and traversed by rectilinear paved streets. Instead of dwellings, the squares are covered with charnel-houses, and those are already numbered by thousands. They are built of stone, and kept with perfect cleanliness and order. The charnel-houses, one story high, are divided into two apartments — the front, a reception-hall with tablets and an altar, before which a lamp continually burns, and on which offerings of tea, fruit, and flowers are daily renewed. This room is occupied by the relations of the deceased, generally sons or daughters, who console the dead not only by day, but through the long watches of the night. A couch or divan along the wall serves for their repose. In the inner chamber rest the unburicd, or the exhumed remains enclosed in a costly carved coffin, covered with a magnificent purple or scarlet pall. Around the coffin are figures or stntues, either carved, or of porcelain, which, gayly dressed and bearings fons or cups, are ministering to the wants of the sleeping dead. When a stranger dies in Canton, information is conveyed to his friends, however distant. His remains rest here until prep- arations for his interment have been made, in the part of the em- pire where he lived. The " city of the dead," like our cemeteries, 1 ■4- 3. l4 IE 272 JAPAN. CHINA, AND COCITTN CITTNA. is under the care of an association, and its expenses are defrayed by charges regulated by tariff It "vvas quite nine o'clock, a star-lit night, when we emo.-fjcd from this silent, mysterious place — the only one we have ever soon in ^vhicll, thougli it is devoted to the dead, cheei-fulness and hope prevail over gloom and despondency. We passed through a scries of graves which surround it, starting a thousand storks, which kept watch and ward over the cemetery. These birds have a peculiar adaptation to sacred places. They rest always on one leg, the head turned backward under the wing. Their utterances are made l)v clapping their mandibles together like a ])air of castanets. Our coolies bore burning lamps. They carried us very quickly across a rude, uninhabited plain, which, by reason of its vicinity to the city. we expected to find a scene of disorder and peril. Our experience is that neither assassin nor robber of any kind, by night or by day, awaits the sojourner in Canton. We occasionally stopped to inquire the significance of a candle burning in the grass near the roadside, and before which lay offerings of tea, wheat, fruit, or millet. The explanation was, that some person, passing the place, had stumbled or met with other accident, the mischievous work of some discon- tented spirit or demon. The light and the offerings are designed to propitiate him. The night aspect of Canton is one of qriie^-. and peace. All shops, stores, and manufactories, are closely shut ; only here and there a paper lantern dangles from the caves, before the house of a mandarin or a wealthv denizen. The tread of the foot-passenii-er is only occasionally heard, and there are no processions, groups, or crowds. Light streams through the crevices of the dwellings, and often the clink of the anvil and the sound of the hammer indicate that the inhabitants have only withdrawn from the operations of sale in which they were engaged during the day, to manufacture new articles to sell to-morrow. Rarely, very rarely, one may hear the mellow tones of a flute, but never in any part of the city doe? there arise the sound of debauch or revelry. A gentle rap by onr conductor brought to the postern the keepei' of each of the numer- ous gates through which we had to pass. A kind word assured us CHINESE TOMBS. 2Ta that ho was prcparod for our coming, and was interested for our safety. Moving on so quietly in our chairs, we l:ad fallen into tlie dreamy state of contemplation ascribed to Buddha, when the lust of the cit^ -gates, the gate of '" Everlasting Peace," lifted its head and allowed us to pass under the door of hospitable " Kee- Chung." >assen<^-er is OUINESK TOUBA. •1 * I 3 tr M 1^ 10. Chincfio Emigratic (/hina. — A Oc Mr. Howard's pccts of Chill IIong-Kon vova<>;c, besicl of Macao. S and fifty of tli the others, vc Kong for San States goes e through the ] American coi from the same The Laws of tl and a certific and made on preventing al United States with the emi tion prevailing the African si by fraud and I CHAPTER XVII. AT UONO-KONQ AGAIN. Cbincso Kmigration to the United Stateti. — The CiuUon f'ishcrics. — American Houses in Ciiina. — A Combination of (iunibleis. — A Dinner at the United States Consulate. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Oriental and Eastern Civilization. — Policy of China. — Pros- pects of China. IIong-Kong^ January 1, 1871. — The Kin-San, on her return- voyage, besides ourselves, had three cabin-] )assengers, all niercliants of Macao. She had four hundred in the steeraoliti- cal necessities of both continents. " Say what men may, buman progress is compelled by the laws of Providence. Obstacles, indeed, must occur, and will nmltiidy resistance lierc, and discussions and jealousies in the West ; but there is a subtle moral opinion wbicb pervades mankind, before which, sooner or later, all such obstacles disappear. There is no assignable measure to the future expansions of tbis intercontinental and i*(?generating commerce. Altbougb its movements seem to us very slow, yet there are abundant evidences that it is neither dying out nor retrograding. The daily increasing emigration from south- ern Cbina to America, and to the Malay Peninsula, and the Oriental Archipelago, is a guarantee of its continuance. That emigration ■works beneficially in three ways : tbe navigation employed in it sustains commerce; it relieves an overcrowded population of sur- plus labor; returning emigrants bring back not only wealth, Imt arts, knowledge, and morals, to renovate their native country. Let my memorv SPEECH CONTINUED. 279 it be oui* task, tliereforc, to stimulate tins emigration. It is essen- tial to the growth of international commerce, that the "Western states practise equal justice toward China. True commerce involves vocipi'ocity, not exclusive gain on either side, and it flourishes just in proportion to the good laith an^ . equality with which it is coiidncted. "Six or seven years ago, the Western nations, relinquishing imli'> idual designs of aggrandizement or advantage in Jhina, were represented hy enlightened men, among whom were the late Mr. Burlingame, Sir Frederick Bruce, and M. Berthemy. They agreed in recommending to their several states the policy of bringing China into equal political relations with all the Western states. The ' Burlingame ' treaty \t as the fruit *f these counsels. They have onlv to be pursued in good faith, to work the best results. N^o one now doubts of the renovation of Japan ; bat China, with its four hundred millions, exhibits more signs of progress to-day than Japan, with its tliirty or forty millions, did twenty years ago. I am often asked : ' But what of this ancient Chinese Imperial Government, its extortions, its timidity, its efteteness, and of this national prejudice, the fruit of thousands of years of isolation ? ' I answer : ' I do not know — no one knows. I only know that imbecility and efteteness always give way before vigor and energy, and that dotage and |irejudice must give way to truth, justice, and reason. I know not what political changes may occur hero, but, on the other hand, I know it is an error to suppose that revolutions, with wliatever de- sign they are inaugurated, retard human progress.' I used all the inrtuonce I had to prevent the late revolution in Japan, because I thonglit it was a retrograde movement ; I little dreamed that the restored I^Iikado would excel the dethroned Tvcoon in emulating Western civihzation. " ihit I must not enlarge. Gentlemen, you have dedicated vonr fortunes and vour lives to the regeneration of (Miina. I ])ray God that you may individually enjoy the rich rewards of that devotion 1 " This day, with its pleasing incidents, will be forever fresh in my nieniorv.'' 280 JAPAN, CniXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. January 4:th, — The Chinese, though not of the Caucasian race, have all its political, moral, and social capabilities. Lon^ ago, they reached a higher plane of civilization than most of the European states attained until a much later period. The Western nations have since risen above that plane. The whole world is anxiously inquiring whether China is to retrieve the ad- vantages she has lost, and if she is to come within the family of modern civilized states. Mr. Burlingame's sanguine temperament and charitable disposition led him to form too favorable an opinio n of the present condition of China. In his anxiety to secure a more liberal policy on the part of the Western nations toward the ancient empire, he gave us to understand, especially in his speeches, that, while China has much to learn from the Western nations, she is not without some peculiar institutions which they may advantageonslv adopt. This is not quite true. Although China is far from beinir a barbarous state, yet every system and institution there is interior to its corresponding one in the West. Whether it be the abstract sciences, such as philosophy and psychology, or whether it be the practical forms of natural science, astronomy, geology, geography, natural history, and chemistry, or the concrete ideas of govern- ment and laws, morals and manners ; whether it be in the aesthetic arts or mechanics, every thing in China is effete. Chinese cdnca- tion rejects science ; Chinese industry proscribes invention ; Chi- nese morals appeal nou to conscience, but to convenience; Chinese architecture and navigation eschew all improvements ; Chinese government maintains itself by extortion and terror ; Chinese reli- gion is materialistic — not even mystic, much less spiritual. If we ask hoAV this inferiority has come about, among a people who have achieved so much in the past, and have capacities for greater acliieve- ment in the future, we must conclude that, owing to some error in their ancient social system, the faculty of invention has been ar- rested in its exercise and impaired. China first became known to the Western world by the discov- eries of Marco Polo in the thirteenth century. At that period and until after the explorations of Vasco de Gama, China appears to have been not comparatively great, prosperous, and enlightened, COXDITIOX OF CHINA. 281 but absolutely so. An empire extending from tne snows of Siberia to the tropics, and from the Pacific to the mountain sources of the (jreat rivers of Continental Asia, its population constituted one- fourth of the human race. Diversified climate and soil alibrded all the resources of public and private wealth. Science and art devel- oped those resources. Thus, when European nations came upon the shores of China, in the sixteenth century, they found the empire independent and self-sustaining. The Mantchoos on the north had invaded the empire and substituted a Tartar dynasty at Peking for a native dynasty at Nanking, but the concpierors and the conquered were still Chinese, and the change was a revolu- tion and not a subjugation. China having thus attained all the objects of national life, came to indulge a sentiment of supercilious pride, under the influence of which she isolated herself from all other nations. Her government from its earliest period was in the hands of a scholastic and pedantic class, a class M-hich elsewhere has been found incapable of practical rule. Since the isolation took phxce, that class has effectively exercised all the powers of the state, in repressing inquiry and stifling invention, through fear that chaugc in any direction would result in their own overthrow. The long isolation of the empire, and the extirpation of native in- vention, have ended in reversing the position of China, From being self-sustaining and independent, as she was when found by the European states, she has become imbecile, dependent, and help- less. Without military science and art, she is at the mercy of Western n;itions. Without the science of political economy, the Government is incapable of maintaining an adecjuate system of revenue ; and, without the science of AVestern laws and morals, it is equally incapable of maintaining an impartial and eflbc'^'ve ad- ministration of justice. Having refused to adopt W^^stcni arts and sciences, the Government is incapable of establishing and maintain- iiifj a beneficial domestic administration. Insurrections and revo- lutions are therefore unavoidable, nor can the Government repress them without the aid of the Western ])owers. She pays the Euro- pean nations for making the clothing for her people, and the arms with which they must defend themselves. She imports not only , ! I I ft ^. 282 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. the precious metals, but coal and iron, instead of allowing her own mines to be opened. She forbids the employment of steam and animal power in mechanics, and so largely excludes her fabrics from foreijj'n markets. Though China Avould now willingly leave all the world alone, other nations cannot atibrd to leave her alone. Great Britain must send her cotton fabrics and iron manufactures. The United IStatcs must send her steam-engines and agricultural implements, and bring away her coolieo. Italy, France, and Belgium, must have her silks, and all the world must have her teas, and send her their religions. All these operations cannot go on without steam-en- gines, stationary as well as marine. Hoe's printing-press, alid the electric telegraph. Now for the question of the prospects of China. Before attempt- ing to answer this, it will be best to define intelligently the pres- ent political condition of China. Certainly it is no longer an abso- lutely sovereign and independent empire, nor has it yet become a protectorate of any other euipire. It is, in short, a state under the constant and active surveillance of the Western maritime nations, This surveillance is exercised by their diplomatic representatives, and by their naval forces backed by the menace of military in- tervention. In determining whether this precarious condition of China is likely to continue, and whether its endurance is desirable, it would be well to consider what are the possible alternatives. There arc only three : First, absolute subjugation by some foreign state ; second, the establishment of a protectorate by some foreiiin state ; third, a complete ])opular revolution; o', erthrowing not only the present dynasty, but the present form of government, and establishing one which shall be in harmony with the interests of China and the spirit of the age. The Chinese people, inflated with national pride, and contempt for Western sciences, arts, religions. morals, and manners, are not prepared to accept the latter alterna- tive. The rivalry of the Western nations, with the fluctuations of the balance of their political powers, render it dangerous for any foreign state to assume a protectorate. The second alternative is, therefore, out of the question. We have already expressed the POLICY OF THE WESTERN POWERS. 283 opinion that mankind liave outlived the theory of universal empire, and certainly the absolute subjugation of China by any Western state would be a nearer approach to universal empire than Greek, or Koman, or Corsican, or Cossack, ever dreamed of. The exercise of sovereigTity in China by a national dynasty, under the surveil- lance and protection of the maritime powers, is the condition most favorable to the country and most desirable. The maintenance of it seems practicable so far as it depends upon the consent of the mari- time surveillant powers. But how long the four hundred millions of people within the empire will submit to its continuance is a (juestion which baffles all penetration. The present Government favoi's and does all it can to maintain it. Prince Kung and Wan- Siang are progressive and renovating statesmen, but a year or two hence a new emperor will come 1 o the throne. The literati, no less bigoted now than heretofore, have an unshaken prestige among the people, and, for aught any one can judge, the first decree of the new emperor may be the appointment of a reactionary ministry, with the decapitation of the present advisers of the throne. Let it, then, be the policy of the Western nations to encourage and sustain the sagacious reformers of China, and in dealing with that extraor- dinary people to practise in all things justice, moderation, kind- ness, and sympathy. Of course, it is not to be expected or desired that the foreign surveillance which is now practised will retain its present obnoxious and opp)ressive character. The habit of interven- tion, and the habit of acquiescence in it once fixed, surveillance will assume the forms of protective tutorship. The interests of hutli parties will rerpiire that this tutoi'ship be exercised with leni- ency; gradual amelioration of the political and social cimdition of China will produce mutual sympathy and respect between the pro- tectors and the protected, the instructors and the pupil. Some- thing of this kind has already happened in the relations between the Western states and the Otto-man powers. It has been no easy task to set down these hurried reflections in the midst of festivities, only brought to an end by the parting with, so many kind friends. The signal is hoisted, and we go on board the Provence. .J t I CHi\PTER XYIIL A GLANCE AT COCHIN CHINA. The Steamer Provence. — Island of Hainan. — Our Fellow-rassengers. — The Mouth of the Saigon River. — The City of Saigon. — French Aptitude for Colonization.— I'reiidi Photographs. — The Queen of Cambodia. Steamer Provence, South China Sea, January C)th. — "Wearied with our long wanderings over China, which, though interesting, were attended with much fatigue, and wuh the hospitalities wliicli, however delightful, were nevertheless exhf.^isting, we resumed our onward voyage with a feeling of relief. "We are now running down the coast of the large and prosper- ous island of Hainan, which is separated from the main-land df China by the Gulf of Tonquin. They speak of aborigines on the island, but, from Avhat we learn of its subdivision into Cliine.' afloat on the dark water of the Saigon. Long before morning, however, swarms of mosquitoes and gnats made us impatient for the sho"e, where we felt sure that flowers, birds, and butterflies, were awaiting us. The Blue-book bears no name of United States consul at Saigon. From the deck, never- theless, wo espied the United States flag, and learned, on inquiry, that the German who raised it there had left it to the care of gome friendly native keeper. We inquired no further, and in this lonely place, the only one thus far in our voyage, no one inquired for us. The commandant of La Provence put us ashore in his gig. AVe bargained for the first two carriages we found there, at the rate of one dollar an hour for each, and in these vehicles, called " garries," each drawn by a rough Chinese pony, and having seats for four passengers (a very close fit), a guide, and a servant, we set out on our travels in Cochin China. Saigon is a native city of from sixty thousand to a hundred thousand inhabitants. The European settlement adjoining it diftera from those \ve have seen in Japan and China, only in being French. This is a matter of no special moment, because all foreigners assim- ilate in the East. The population is perhaps two hundred and fifty, exclusive of the garrison. There is a public garden filled with plants, but it wears an air of neglect, in consequence, we think, not of declining trade, but of political insecurity growing out of the war in Europe. All Eastern potentates and nobles maintain menage- ries. The garden at Saigon proclaims itself an appendage to the French rejiublic, by a meagre collection of leopards, tigers, bears, monkeys, birds, and reptiles. The French Government is building A ^ 4 I ...» 288 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. a large palace for the residence of the admiral commanding the forces in Easter" >vatcrs. The native city consists of two towns, standing on two rivers, distant two miles from each other, and connected by a firm road. NATIVE OF SAIGON. The population is by no means homogeneous. The merchants and traders are not Cochin Chinese, but chiefly Chinese, and all classes speak, to some extent, the French language. A happy accord seems to exist between them and the French. All shoM- tlic j^lcas- ing impress of French manners. We alighted from oui- vehicles whenever we found a^iv thing noticeable, and invarialdv were waited upon by polite and assiduous attendants. Wc entered niul inspected a Buddhist temple. The bonzes, with great courtesy, shoM'ed us every thing it contained. Whenever we stojiped, re;i, fruit, and sherbet, M'ere ofi'ered us. The smallest payment was thankfully received, and, when we declined, the refreshments M-ere urged upon us without cost. In short, Saigon is the only place we have found thus far, in the wide world, where everybody seemed FRENCH EMPIRE IN COCHIN CHINA. 281) pleased with us, with themselves, and we had reason to be pleased with everybody. The French have a peculiar facility in cilectiuf^ colonial assim- ilation to their national ways and manners. One exi)eriences the same rodncts arc Inxuries the most desired hy civiliz(.>d nations. AVhile rice is an ahiindant staple, Sai<;(m experts the j!;um of lac- qner, cinnamon, and many useful and jn-ecious woods. It is nut, abtibam's house at baioon. however, chiefly for local trade that France values Saigon. It is a convenient station for commercial and postal steam-lines, hy which she has expected to maintain her prestige as a maritime power of the first rank. Her experience has demonstrated the truth of two political axioms : First, that the possession of extensive foreign col- onies adds immeasurably to the credit and prestige of a nation ; secondly, that a nation which cannot maintain peace at home, can- not permanently hold foreign possessions. As our habit is, we take away from Saigon many photographic QUEEN OF CAMIJODIA. ii'.H illustrations of niiumors, dross, and sfonory. They arc Froncli, ;iiul iidiiiiriibly oxeciitcd. Wu are puzzled, however, in our ctlbrts to (Icterniine the truthfulness of one of them, notwithstandiuuf.itrt iitliciMi vorlHcation. It represents the Queen of ('and)odia, ^^/vy^'yt'c (.f the French Enii)ire, with naked feet and aidcles, encircled by (dstly p)ld hani!;les and jewels, while her head is covered with a Parisian bonnet of the year 1S(12, presented to her, with other articles of European fashion, by the Freneh emperor. ■^^y///y(,y//;/'. '.W/M//I-I QUEEN OF CAMBODIA.' ML % THE EA PART III. THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, STRAITS OF MALACCA, AND CEYLON. I v i- I i m ft THE CHINA Our Distance frorr from Boston. —A Dutch S Sumatra.— TI China Sei home, we rec average of on as if we had I diir riglit the on our left, .at liiids, the relic enjoying calm Sh}(/aj)o?v, night! StiHii penance for in At sunri.sc Ixwrd, with ]\ Tlioy drove ii Australian h:v us, then to M\ taking care of from home, o CHAPTER I. THE CHINA SEA, SmGAPORE, AND THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. Our Distance from Home. — Calm Seas and Temperate Breezes. — Singapore. — A Dispatch from Boston. — The People of Singapore. — Their Habitations. — Life in the Tropics, — A Dutch Steamer. — Our Crew. — A Question of Races. — Rather Hot. — Banca and Sumatra. — The Straits of Sunda, China Sea, January ^th. — In the five months since we left home, we reckon in distances made, eighteen thousand miles, an average of one hundred and twenty miles a day, although it seems as if we had hecn at rest half the time. While w'e are passing on our right tlie extreme promontory of Cochin China, we are leaving on our left, at a distance of one hundred miles, the Philippine Isl- ands, the relic of Spanish empire in the East Indies. We continue enjoying calm seas and temperate breezes. Slngajyore, Jamiary IIM. — Anchored at midnight, and what a niirlit! Stifling cabins and myriads of moscpiitoes. Is this our penance for invading the equator ? At sunrise, the TTnited States consul, Mr. Jewell, came on board, with Mr. Young, of the house of Busteed & Company. Tlicy drove us, in a M-ell-hung English carriage, behind two fine Anstrahan bays, first to the consulate, where a breakfast awaited us, then to Mr. Young's pretty villa, on the hill, where he is kindly taking care of us. Three months having elapsed since we heard from home, our first inquiry was, whether the telegraph-cable I 296 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. has been laid from Point de Galles to this place. " Yes," said llr. Young, " I received to-day a dispatch which came from Boston in twenty-four hours." It is reassuring to come again into instan- taneous communication with home and "the rest of mankind." The new wire brings European intelligence of six weeks' later date than we read at IIong-Kong. This intelligence, however, whicli we so eagerly sought, was contained in a meagre statement. " Nothing important happened since republic proclaimed at Paris. Much speculation. Probably Orleans family. Papers promise ex- pulsion German armies. Perhaps anarchy." We enter British India from the east at Singapore. It is tlie chief commercial town of the colony, acquired by purchase and or- ganized by the British Government in 1824, as the Eastern Straits Settlement ; the name derived from the straits of Malacca. This jurisdiction extends north by west to the island of Pcnang, off tlie Malay Peninsula. Penang is officially regarded as the cajntal, although the business of the government is carried on here. Sin- gapore is a frc'^ port. It has an aggregate population of one hun- dred and fifty thousand, which is rapidly increasing. There are five hundred Europeans. British subjects, together with less than a dozen citizens of the United States, monopolize Western naviija- tion and commerce. More than half of the population arc Chinese, chiefly merchants and bankers engaged in the domestic trade, and that which is carried on with adjacent xisiatic countries — Cliina, Siam, Burinah, Java, and the Eastern Archipelago — others arc me- chanics and gardeners. It would be an effectual antidote to tlie California croaking against the pagan Chinese, to see the protection and encouragement which the British authorities extend to the Chinese immigration here. The Jew has not failed to malre good his position. lie is, as everywhere else, a broker in small and sec- ond-hand wares. The residue of the population are chiefly native, perhaps aboriginal Malays, with an accession of indolent and tlirift- less immigrants from Ilindostan. The seamen are of many Orien- tal races, natives of Goa, Javanese, Hindoos, Malays, Burmese, Siam- ese, Cingalese, Abyssinians, and negroes. With this conglomerate ])opulation, it is not singular that Singapore is a harbor for vagrants and waifs f say that Si: rope and th Australia. silks and t( tin of Band turcs. Lad mart for art people no 1 imitations o here to cur home. But quisitely bei mounted wi on every sid in^s in sane large trade. The Eurc concessions, ciousness, cl AYestern idc Malays. W were found above the gn ritv against retain the an Here, as this one exhi under the pa European ski The juml religions hen ers contemp Bramin temj severe-look in and a cathed SINGAPORE AND ITS PEOPLE. 297 and waifs from all parts of tlie East. It is almost unnecessary to gay that Singapore is a central station of commerce between En- rope and the far East, Burmah, China, Japan, the Archipelago, and Australia. India opium, camphor, and lacqner, Java cofiee, China silks and teas, Manila tobacco, spices of Sumatra and Borneo, the tin of Banda, etc., are exchanged for British and French manufac- tures. Ladies will be interested in knowing that Singapore is the mart for articles of jewelry and vertu of all sorts, such as civilized people no less than barbarians delight in. Parisian and London imitations of Oriental articles of those sorts are sold by the natives here to curiosity-seeking Europeans, who would reject them at Lome. But there is also an abundance ot native productions, ex- quisitely beautiful ; sea-shell, coral, precious stones, tigers' claws mounted with gold, tigers' skins, and birds-of-paradise, tempt us on every side, while the most delicate Chinese porcelain, and carv- ings in sandal-wood and eagle-wood for incense, are staples of a large trade. The European dwellings do not differ from those in the Chinese concessions, while those of the Asiatic immigrants, by greater spa- ciousness, cleanliness, and comfort, manifest an advance toward Western ideas. This improvement, however, is slow among the Malays. Wlien this race became known to the Europeans, they were found living in buildings raised on stakes four or five feet above the ground, for the desirable purpose of drainage and secu- rity against reptiles and wild beasts. The Malays at Singapore retain the architectural habits of their ancestors. Here, as at Saigon, the foreigners maintain a public garden, but this one exhibits the indescribable luxuriance of tropical vegetation, under the painstaking -hand of the Chinese cultivator, directed by European skill. The jumble of diverse races has produced a strange medley of religions here. There are several Chinese temples, which foreign- ers contemptuously call, here as in China, "joss-houses;" one Bramin temple, with its sacred cows and goats; half a dozen severe-looking Mohammedan mosques ; a Boman Catholic church ; and a cathedral of the Church of England. The British Govern- 298 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. ment tolerates all tliese religions, from tlie same political motive with which the emperors tolerated the various modes of worship which prevailed in the Roman Avorld. Although these various re- ligions in India are not considered by the people as equally true, or by the philosophers as equally false, the magistrate regards them as equally useful. This toleration produces mutual indulgence, with- out religious discord. A secretary waited upon Mr. Seward, with an invitation from the governor, who is now at Penang. Mr. Young, with a very hurried invitation, gathered around m a large and distinguished company of the official people, merchants and bankers of Singapore, with whom we have passed the evening pleasantly. ** Jammrii Vlih. — It has been a new experience to sleep in cham- bers, with doors and windows opening on a broad veranda, with- out the protection of panels or glass. It was an experience equally novel, when, stepping on the veranda, at six o'clock, we foimd tables spread with tea, delicate tropical fruits, and ices, while the entire family, including ladies and beautiful children, joined us there, having already returned from their customary exhilaratinn; walks and rides. So it seems that life in the tropics is not with- out pleasant and invigorating excitements and exercise. Stoomschejyen Koningin tier Nederlanden^ January 12th, Even- ing. — Having again changed our nationality, we are afloat, this time, imder the tricolor flag of the Netherlands, carefully rej^is- tered, and bound for the island of Java. Our side-wheel steamer is rated at only four hundred and fifty tons, and we think is over- rated at that. She is the flrst steamer which was built on tliat island, and is thirty-four years old. Though not improved by a2;c, it must be admitted that she has held her own against time and typhoon. Though the smallest craft we have yet sailed in, she flourishes a long if not a great name. Heaven save all persons but penal convicts from being cramped into such contracted bortlis, with the mercury standing at 99° I Wc indulge this objurgation hy THE ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 299 is not witli- virtiic of tlie traveller's license to find fault. Although the cabins are small, they arc " as neat as a Binningham pin ; " and, while the hatchways are open, the ventilation is perfect. A table stands in the centre of the upper deck, protected by a permanent hurricane awning, and remains covered throughout the whole day with equa- torial luxuries. But the peculiar institution of the Dutch Steam Navigation Company is, another table standing across the beam, midships, on which decanters are always kept full of "Kaneel Liker," maraschino, absinthe, curagoa, Schiedam schnapps, brandy, mm, and we know not what other "appetizers," to which the Dutch passengers resort continually, without a suspicion of singu- larity, and without expense. The platfoi*m of the deck is covered with flowers enough to constitute a conservatory, and with baskets of various and exquisite fruits, thoughtfully brought on board, and arranged for us, by our consid. When we came on board this morning, with many friends, they congratulated us on having " a good cloudy day." It was the first time we ever knew " cloudy weather" at sea the subject of felicitation. We are already reminded that we have entered on a new geographical and political study — that of the Oriental Archipelago. Wo are running down the northeastern coast of the rich island of Sumatra, which is of itself almost large enough to be a continent, and which the equator divides, as it divides the whole world, into equal parts. Only one-fourth of it, with a population of a million, has been subjected to Western rule, and this is a Dutch jolony. The other three-fourths, with three millions of people, iire states ruled by native princes, some of wjiom are independent, others under Dutch protection. Sumatra has a commercial importance only inferior in the Archipelago to that of Java. Small islands cluster together so closely on our left hand as to give us for a channel almost an inland sea, a continuation of the straits of Malacca. It is in few places more than ten miles wide, and smooth like a river. Its shores are low and wear a rich green verdure. We noticed a profuse shower of rain, at a distance of two miles, while the sky beyond it, as well as over our heads, was bright and cloudless. Our captain, whose professional career dates S.:^ 300 THE EVSTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. from tlie building of the stoomschepen Koningin der Nederlanden, assures us that, while rain is frequent in all parts of this equatorial voyage, it is always raining at the place where that particular shower was falling. Our crcYt^, drawn from Singapore, is a mixture of the Asiatic sea- men of that place of which we have spoken. Those of them who come from Western or Southern Asia, wear a light, graceful, and picturesque costume, strongly contrasting with the plain and coarse dress of the Chinese. They evidently make faithful use of the bath. Varying in complexion from tawny to black, they have regular and delicate features. They exhibit nothing of that stolid reserve which causes the Chinese to be regarded as sullen and contemptu- ous. Their different languages are based on the ancient Sanscrit. Each has an alphabet. Perhaps it is for this reason that they ac- quire any European language easily, and speak it with much cor- rectness. It will be a curious study for us to inquire how much this greater adaptability of the southern and western Asiatic races to European intercourse is due to their earlier and more intimate acquaintance with foreigners. We are now inclined to tiiink that a closer ethnological affinity exists between the European and the Hindoo and Malay nations than between the Europeans and the Mongolians ; and, again, that there is a closer affinity between the Hindoo and the Malay nations than between the Mongolian and the Malay. However it may have happened, there is a contrast quite as perceptible between the rude and vigorous population of Northern China and the gentle and docile nat'ves of Sumatra and Malacca, as there was at the time of the discovery of America be- tween the fierce tribes of New England and New York and the harmless natives of San Salvador and Hispaniola. float about i Off the Island of Banca, January ISth. Fahrenheit 90°.— Rather hot for January, according to our way of thinking. They say that latitude affects climate, but we do not sec it or feel it. Yesterday we left Singapore on the parallel of latitude one degi'ee seventeen minutes north. At one o'clock this morning we cross the equator, and now we are two degrees south of it. Yet, for any A BOA AFLOAT. 301 consciousness wc have, tlic ^veather at the three points admits of no degrees of comparison. It is hot at Singapore — it is hot under the equator — it is just as hot here. Perhaps the maxim " iVe curat ruhumis'*^ applies to the laws of Nature as well as human laws. We have always read that life on a Dutch sailing-craft is easy and lazy. The Koningin der Xcderlanden does not disprove it. While our captain insists that he makes seven and a half knots, our measurement on the chart shows that we are really going only six. Our passengers, however, are the most active people in the world. They show their vigor in two ways — one in changing their dress every hour to get cool, the other in taking schnapps every half-hour to get hot again. Crossing the line, after all. especially at night, is no great affair. We felt no concussion, and, as the passengers were all in their berths, the customary nautical ceremonies were omitted. Charts show us high mountains in the interior on either side. Banca seems covered with forests, interrupted here and there by cultivation. Sumatra presents a low, sedgy shore, large pieces of which, covered with jungle, are continually breaking loose, and float about in the forms of pretty green islets on the dark sea. Of course, every one desires to haul up to them and see what are the plants and flowers which cover them. A Dutch skipper yielded to this impulse a short time ago. The captain, alighting on the float- ing mass, had just set his foot on a cactus-stump, when a huge boa- constrictor reared his glossy head and proclaimed his proprietor- ship of the island by violent hisses. The invader retreated, leav- ing the " lord of the isle " to navigate his crazy craft as best he might. Here we are with the Malay Peninsula just behind us, the Spice Islands, Sumatra, Banca, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Floris, Timor, Booro, Ceram, New Guinea, and a thousand lesser ones all around us. We read and " hear tell " of elephants that break down telegraph-poles in rubbing their hard hides ; of tigers, lions, and leopards, always prowling through the jungle ; of shiny serpents in coils like cables ; of monkeys playing their antics in palm-tree groves ; of parrots, paroquets, peacocks, and birds-of-paradise, that I ^ t ik i % ■ - -J, c 1 :502 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. excel the tloral vc^^etatiun in brilliancy of colors; and yet all that we can see of them is occasionally a captive beast in a menagerie, or a stufted bird in a curiosity-shop at Singapore — a new illustration of a discovery heretofore announced, that going round the world is not the way to see it. I^evertheless, it is something to learn in the near vicinity the topography of these islands, which are the native homes of the various tribes of the jNEalav race : to learn somethiiiir of the character and condition of that gentle race, whose languid energies arc now excited to activity and directed by their Dutch conquerors. They possess a wealth peculiarly their own — the metals, invaluable teakwood, and coffee, with spices, dyes, and gums, aromatics, and roots used in art and medicine, brilliant feathers and glossy skins of beasts of prey, which taste and luxury require in every condition. Even this little island on onr left reg- ulates, by its production, the market of tin as eiiectually as the old Almaden mines in Spain and the New Almaden mines in Califor- nia regulate that of quicksilver throughout the world. Moreover, there are, in various parts of these islands, ruins of cities and tem- ples, which seem to indicate a primeval civilization, which has passed away without leaving either record or tradition. By-and-by, ommercial intercourse will render research among tliese antiqii- ties practicable, perhaps proiitable. Meanwhile, we must be satis- fied with an inspection of Java, a design which we shall be able tv execute if the Koningin der Xederlanden shall live to complete this, the ten hundred and twentieth of her voyages. Despite our resolution, this equatorial travel is working a change in our habits. The heat becomes insupportable at ten o'clock, and drives us to a siesta. At sunset, a breeze springs up. clouds gather, a brilliant display of electricity begins, which is con- tinued until midnight, and brings refreshing rains. So the hot day having become our night, the cool night becomes our day for exer- cise, writing, and conversation. Jamiary lUh. — "We crossed, last night, the entrance of the straits of Sunda, the great channel of trade between Europe, China. and Japan. Can any one doubt the unity of tho human family, A MONSOOX. when ho rcciills the fact that tho civil wav which convnlscd tho United States, five years ago, had its paiulul e])isodes in this dis- tant sea i AVc eiicoiiutered in the ])assage one of those monsoons wlm'h render it difficult and dangerous. The storm caused the Ivoningin aforesaid to dance in a manner most undignified and unbecoming this grave and "ancient mariner." The ports were closed, the cabins grew unendurable, and the deck became tho coiunion sleeping-room of the passengers. SINGAPORE. • 4 ■r ■A 1 ft 1 ■3 CHAPTER II. THE CAPITAL OF JAVA. The City of Batavia.— Tljc Flotol dcs Indcs.— A New-England Sabbath.— Malay PcrvanU. — Tlie Kind's Plahi. — Population of Java. — The Queen of the P]ast. — Departure for Buitcnzorg. — Maimer of Travelling. — The Vicc-Kegal Kesideuec. — The Climate of Java. — The Baths of Buiteuzocg. Ijatavhi, January \(Mh. — At sunrise we were tossing in tlic open roadstead, four miles from tlic shore. The monsoon was pas;r, tliough the sea had not subsided. The skies cleared at eight o'clock, giving^ us a view of a long, level, green coast, swelling upward into lofty blue mountains. There is much less shipping here than at Singapore, but the diversity of flags indicates a not less various commerce. The smallest of all steam-tugs was seen bounding over the waves and distributing passengei'sand freights, among steamers wdiicli are going out to neighboring Dutch ports throughout the Archipelago, ^yhcn she Jiad done this, she rounded up to our steamer, and received us on board. On the way, we passed a steamship-of-war, freighted with troops, going to repress a native rebellion in Borneo. A pretty stream, which once stagnated in the jungle, has been converted into a broad canal, that now aflbrds navigation from tlie roadstead to the heart of the city of Batavia. The custom-honse officers took our own statcinent for our number, ages, occupations, luggage, and intentions. Malay drivers, the smallest men we ever Baw, with the heaviest sort of European barouches, drawn by mini- THE STllEETS OF HATAVIA. 305 atnrc ponies, whirled on a gallop over streets smooth as a race- course, bordered by substantial white cotta,iJ:;e (hvelliii* ^ !> vrti ■•t 1 .1 Bi .1 306 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC, 4 4 occasion to seek since we left Salt Lake City, if we except the Chi- nese inns on the way from Peking to the Great Wall. This hotel is a building of one story, surrounding a circular court, with a higher central edifice, which contains the proper offices, drawing- rooms, and saloons, a veranda surrounding the whole. The outer buildings, occupied as private apartments, are connected by coiri- dors with the centre building. In a scrupulously neat bathing- house attached to our apartment, we enjoyed, for the first time, the full luxury of an Oriental bath, for the bath has not yet been suc- cessfully introduced into the Furopean settlements in Japan and China. This bath consists of a marble basin fifteen feet in diame- ter, the water exactly the temperature of the air, clear, and deep enough for swimming. It being Sunday, we composed ourselves early for the enjoy- MAIIttlKl) WOMAN OK JAVA. mcnt of a 'N'cw-England Sabbath, a day of absolute rest. But tliis was not to be. A host of native SLreet-pcdlers had ibllowed us to MALAY SERVANTS. 307 the hotel. They sat clown and chattered on the veranda, they crowded into our parlor, " singly, by pairs, and by the dozen," and, in spite of repulse and remonstrance, forced upon us a display of tlicir cheap but ostentatious wares. For the first time, we have luaiutained a resolution a?j;ainst the itinerant merchant, yielding oiilv in the case of a blind trader. Even he left us, at last, Aveary with our delay in findino- the guilders required for the purchase. But we called him back and bought a pair of green-velvet gold- embroidered slippers. Breakfast at twelve. Its excellence, con- trasting with that of breakfasts at home, was that nothing on the table was hot. On what principle is it that Europeans in the East smother the delicate flavor of rice in thirty or forty piquant con- diments ? All the servants are Malays. They arc meek and un- obtrusive, but not servile ; willing and diligent, but not quick. Tidy and even tasteful in dress, they make an attractive costume with a guilder's worth of printed muslin. The Malay is, on an average, two inches shorter than the Euro- peans or Mongolian, with scai jely any beard, and the sexes are un- (listinguishable by their dress. Mr. Pells, advised, from Singapore, of our coming, came at one d'clock and immediately removed us to his pleasant villa on the '•King s Plain," which is the Hyde Park of P>atavia, a shaded lawn, four miles long, and half a mile wide. Primitive national habits, however, are not relinquished here. The " King's Plain" is the (•oiumon pasturage of the milch-cows of the city. An artist would find a pretty study in this quiet scene, in which the aninuils, cro])- ping the rich grass, seem scarcely more at leisure than their Malay aitendants, sitting under the trees, in picturesque attitude and cos- tume. In going to our new residence, we stopped to hear the "King's Itand," aiul lingered there until sunset witnessing the evening promenade of the whole Euro])ean popidati* a, which, including military and naval olHcers, numbers six thousand. There was a }2;nttcs(iue display of carriages and liveries of fashions now obso- lete in Europe. Gentlemen as well as ladies and children disdain to cover their heads after sunset, while all "sorts and conditions of K C''^ 308 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. « I men " wear white gloves, and all have the staid and gentle Dutcli manner. Will onr friends consult the tables of population ? AYe think the island of Java is the most densely-populated country in A JAVANESE UtBL. the world. There are fourteen millions of people within an area of forty-five thousand square miles. Tlic city of Batavia, with a diameter of eight miles, contains one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants — more than half of these are Chinese. The residue, with the exception of the few Europeans, is divided nearly equally between the two native Malay races, Javanese and Sundcse. All the Malavs arc Mohammedans. The Chinese retain their native heathenism. The Europeans, of course, are Christians, but free from religious zeal or fervor. Batavia challenges the title of " Queen of the East.'' Certainly it presents a delightful contrast to the towns of .Japan and Cliiiin, while its profusion of equatorial shade-trees and flowers makes it far more pleasing than any place we have at home. The settltMnent of New York, by the Dutch, and that of Java were coutempora- VISIT TO BUITENZORG. 309 iieous. Each was suiTouncled by aboriginal tribes — those around i^ew York sparse, those around Batavia popuh^us. The aboriginal races around New York have virtually disappeared, and are re- placed by millions of European derivation ; the aboriginal races around Batavia, on the other hand, remain in even greater force than at the time of the conquest, while the European population is only twenty-seven thousand. Again, neither the Netherlands nor any European state has kept a foothold within the vast territory now covered by the United States ; while the Dutch not only re- tain their first dominion in Java, but have extended it over the whole island and a large portion of the Archipelago. What a con- trast there has been in the processes of civilization which have pro- duced results so widely different in the two hemispheres ! The Governor, or, as he is called, the "Residente" of Batavia, visited Mr. Seward to-day, and tendered us the hospitalities of the province. The Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies resides at Buitenzorg, thirty-six miles distant, and has invited us to be his ii'iiosts there. The intense heat to-day has not only overpowered ii<, but seems to have overpowered the whole i)opulation of Batavia. Our morning rest was protracted until evening, and then deluging rains made us prisoners. Ijt(itenzo)'(j, Januar}/ \Wi.^ — "We yesterday appointed six for our hour of dc[)arture. It was our own fault, or rather that of our lujrgage, and not the fault of the post-ofiice, that we were delayed until half-past seven. The admiration of Batavia, which we ex- pressed yesterday, was somewhat modified as we came through the city and suburbs this morning. "We were, at first, unable to decide by what name we should call the dwellings of Europeans, whetlicr bungalows, cottagos, or villas. We now found them, each with its beautiful grove, so exactly like to every other, that, un- aided, we shall be quite unable, on our return to the city, to find Mr. Pell's residence, or the street on which it stands. To tell the truth, moreover, the right line in geometry is not the line of beauty, nor is the paralicf jgram, although a very convenient figure tor many uses, especially adapted to landscape-gardening. Kor '1 i 1^^ 6:::^ ■i\ 310 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. was it altogether gratifying to find the "King's Plain" soakiiK' and miry, much more suitable for a dairy-meadow than a park. These strictures, however, we now think hypercritical ; we mu.st still pronounce Batavia the most attractive city we have ever seen. The road to Buitonzorg is well graded, perfectly macadamized, and, what is better, completely bordered and shaded on either side BCF.NE IN JAVA. by liigh, thick hedges of heliotrope, cactus, and creepers, all in bloom. Over these hedges, the light bamboo lines the avonuo. opening only to reveal the native cottages, peeping from iiiulor ])alm-groves. All the people we sec, whether about their huiublo dwellings, or moving on the high-road, seem busy, contented, and happy. Oidy two beggars approached us on the way, and those timidly; both were blind. mcnt. Sevc A FASCINATING RESIDENCE. an The manner of travel here is on the postal system, which was never known in America, and is now superseded by raih-oads in Europe. Wc have Mr. Pell's stately old coach, which has seats for tjix passengers inside, and ample room for four servants outside. We carry no trunks, our wardrobes being stored in the capacious boxes under the seats. Four horses draw us over the level plain ; more are added in cUmbing hills. The driver has two assistants or runners {lopers}^ who, by constantly applying their lashes, keep the ponies up to running-speed. They are whisked off and replaced ai stages of seven miles. We made the journey in three hours. At each stage, the traveller pays four cents to each loper, and ten or twenty cents to the driver. If Batavia is lascinating, this suburban viceregal residence is supremely so. The palace stands at the south side of the native city. The approach is through a park, covered with a greener and smoother sward, we imagine, than even England or Holland can exhibit. Five hundred deer are seen reclining or feeding under the lofty shade-trees. The palace is said to be on the model of Blen- heim — however this may be, we recognize the plan of our own Cap- itol at Washington. Like every thing else in this favorite Dutch colony, it hap])ily combines good taste with elegance and comfort. The governor-general has received us very kindly, although not without something of the stiffness of official ceremony. The ladies seem to regard us as an accession, not unwelcome, to a society cir- cumscribed and somewhat monotonous. The Dutch East Indies are ruled absolutely by directions from the Hague. Practically, the governor-general is viceroy. At the time of the conquest, two native sovereigns, with the pompons titles of sultan and emperor; divided the island between them, one of the territories being known as Java, the other as Sunda. The (loscentlants of each of these sovereigns being subsidized, though really divested of power, retain certain contracted domains, with .titular rank, in subordination to the authority of the Dutch Govern- ment. Several other native kings, subsidized in the same way, have a somewhat similar domain and tenure. AVith these qualifica- tions, the executive government is administered by the governor- = ■*« ^ ■ general, w lluine govc llic Dii natives, ha interval of Kapoleonic ti'ol of Frai Britain. January It has no i \ '% ii*a i! ^^ LILY rOXD. 313 general, with the aid of an executive council appointed by the Home government. Tlie Dutch, not without severe and frequent contests with the natives, have held sway here since the year IGIO, with only an interval of from 1811 to 1810, when among the events of the Kupoleonic war in Europe, Holland having passed under the con- trol of France, Java was seized and held for five years by Great Britain. January Vbth. — Shall we note the climatic features of Java ? It has no spring and no autumn — only sunnner and winter. It f0- L[I.V I'ONII l'Al,,V( K (iinH'NllS. .lAVA. 314 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. f 1 rains all summer, and is comparatively dry during the harvest- time in winter. The present season is the summer. It rained so constantly yesterday that we could not enter a carriage, or stc'|) on the ground. This morning, Governor-General Mver, with the ladies, gave us a drive in the botanical gardens attached to the ])alace. All the world knows that they are scientifically planted, but why give them a technical name? They arc of princely di- mensions, and arc inconceivably magnificent, for they contain, or are understood to contain, every attainable tropical tree, ])lant, or flower. Of the palm alone there are a hundred species. Dense groves of tree-ferns are interlaced with myriads of orchids, cov- ered with what one might well imagine to be the very flowers of paradise, and we were at a loss to say Avhicli form of life in the tropics, the .vegetable or the animal, excels in color. Man's hand has planted and trained the trees and flowers, but the gorgeous troops of birds which inhabit them arc voluntary residents there, making the shade "vocal with their ransic." These groves are interspersed with lakes, whose waters murmur under the per- fumed pressure of the crimson lily and the sacred lotus. These lakes are the homes of some varieties of tropical birds ; swans, black and white, are domesticated in them ; and the cockatoo, with his creamy plumage, seems unconscious of imprisonment in his spacious gilded cage, so constructed as to afibrd him ample sunshine and cool bath. Alighting from our carriages, we took a path which leads through a bamboo-grove so dense that the down which its delicate leaves cast on the smooth gi'avel takes the form of a tender moss. This moss, taking root, interweaves so closely that it is not de- ranged by the footstep. The very air of this fairy grove seemed to us to hold a soothing verdure. But it is not alone in the lakes, groves, and lawns, that the feathered race contents itself at Euiteii- zorg : " This guest of summer. The temple-haunting martlet does approve By his loved masonry, that heaven's breath Smiles sweet and wooingly here." TROPICAL FOLIAGE, 3i: At sunset, thousands of martins gather for the night under the eaves of the pahice. Sitting closely to each other, they are mistaken by a careless observer for a blackened bead, which extends without break around the cornice ot the entire editiee. Perhaps we dilute TROPICAL FOLIAOE, JAVA. too much on tropical Nature, but its first effect upon all minds is to excite a wish never to leave it. "VVe almost contracted for at least an occasional home at Nagasaki. AVe left Hong-Kong and Singa])ore reluctantly ; but Batavia, and more than all Buitenzorg, wins our thoughts irresistibly away from all that is practical in life, to delight in repose and serene contemplation. The truth, ho\vever, is, that the admiration of tropical scenery, though universal, wears off as s^uddenly as it comes. We have not c ii 316 THE EASTERN AIlCIIirELAGO, ETC. thus for found .an American or European content Avitli a gonial clime. The merchant, mariner, or missionary, even the wuineii and children, stay here against their wills, and wait impatiently lor their release this month or the next, or, at iarthest, this year or tlic next. If we should forget every thing else at Buitcnzorg, we arc not likely to forget its baths. Leaving the palace-door, and driviiii; through a winding, palm-shaded lane, we came to the baml)u(> grove. Dismissing carriage and attendants there, we penetrated JAVANESE FRUIT. to its dark centre, by a tangled foot-path. There we found a marble basin, eighty feet across, filled with flowing water. Tlie depth is regulated at will, and a slight bamboo rail is stretched SCEXE IX JAVA. 317 DPross the bnsla for security against accident. Tall palm-trees pro- tect the bather from the sun, while the surrounding grove is an impenetrable screen. Coining out of the bath, we picked up what we thought to be a green walnut. On removing the hard, acrid shell, pungent scarlet mace betrayed itself; breaking through this, and the inner shell, which it covered, a fragrant, white, milky pulp disclosed the incipient nutmeg. BCE.S'E IN .I.vVA. i i ft CHAPTER III. If » < «r •:' I EXCURSIOX INTO THE INTERIOR. A Balking Horse. — Cultivation of Rico. — Tropical Flowers. — Surabaya. — The Rcj^ont Prn- vAyo. — Dutch Culonization. — How Jiiva ir< governoil. — Handong. — Tlio Refrcnt mil the Interpreter. — A Gouty Monarch. — The Regent's Income. — How he spends it. Surahat/a, January 'ilst. — The governor-general and his csti niable family dismissed us, after a very early breakfast, on an o\- c'lirsion M'liich is affording us an opportunity to see something of the mountains, and more of the simple people of this beautiful island. Still travelling in Mr. Pell's spacious coach, with government orders for relays, we drove rapidly through the quaint and quiet streets of the pretty little city of Buitenzorg. So long as we kept the plain, we had only one annoyance — a balking horse — one df eight. Peasantry, at every halt, assisted the lopers in rolling the heavy carriage against the refactory animal's heels, and so, whether he w'illed to go or not, we got on. Crossing a small stream, Me climbed irregular volcanic mountains, and came through a goi-i^e between two of them ; the one seven thousand feet high, the other four thousand. The mountain-sides are terraced \'ith rice-fiehU, one above the other. These fields Avere covered with standiiii; water. The successive terraces show the crop at every stage of its growth. On the upper terrace, the young plant is seen, rescmblinir grass just sprouted from the seed ; on the level just below, .^iniile stalks of rice just transplanted ; below this, fields of the grain at successive periods of its growth ; until, at the foot of the mountain, niCE-CrLTIVATION". ;5i!) le mountain, it is already ripened, and ready for the knilL'. We say the lii[fv^ tor neither cradle, n<>r scythe, nor sickle, is used in the rice-iields iii .lava. The Koran commands the huslianduian to cut oil' each iiiilividual stalk singly. This injunction the pious Moslem never disohoys. Kicc-cultivation is a very laborious process. A prairie farmer, wc think, would despair, if he were obliged to trans})lant his wheat- cfop from its lirst bed, plant by plant; he would die, if it were necessary to Avatcr it, even once during its growth. It would be loft to rot in the field if he were denied a ''reaper," or at least a cradle or sickle ; it would waste in the barn or stack if he could not procure a threshing-machine or a fanning-mill. On the other hand, here each blade of rice is removed to a new bed, and from its plant- inii' until its ripening it is irrigated once every day. When it is irathered, the kernels arc separated from the husk by hand. Not- withstanding this vast labor, rice is the chief production, as it is the chief food of all the Asiatic races, constituting half the po])ulation (if the globe. The cause of the productiveness of Java (greater than that of any portion of the earth) readily discloses itself to the must careless observer as he passes through the country. It is a combination of eipiatorial heat, volcanic soil, and perennial moun- tain-streams. These rivulets are subdivided at their springs, and conducted around and down the winding terraces to the base of the mountain, where they are in like manner gathered and poured in sparkling cascades down the steep declivity ; then to be again sub- divided, and made to perform the same gentle service as before to successive terraces below. We know well enough the slow progress of science and art at home, but who taught this Malay peasantry this skill in hydranlics, which surpasses that of any civilized people ? We are now seeing that wc might have spared ourselves the trouble of threading the walks of the botanical gardens at Bui- tenzorg. All around us, every way we turn, whichever way wc look, are innumerable species of palm, the great banyan, exquisite tree-ferns thirty or forty feet high, sparkling witli parasitic flowers; fragrant hedges of heliotrope fifteen feet high, now in full bloom — % jS^ 320 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. *•* «« 4 not monotonous blue as witli us, but of every color and hue — alter- nating '.vitli other hedges of the grotesque cactus of a hundred shapes and equally splendid in bloom. Every one is familiar with the lily of the valley, but we find here the lily of the mountain, a stately flower giving out even a sweeter odor than its little name- sake. Mountains shine with white lilies, and lakes with the incom- parable lot-i. Although cotfee-plantations spread a broad, dark shadow behind flowery hedges, yet the bright green rice-fields are never out of the landscape. Where these allow space, there aie meadows gay with azaleas of infinite variety, set in borders of pink and white and crimson oleanders, which attain here the stature of the magnolia. AVe h ve found rest and refreshment at the village of Surabaya. a pleasant resort in a mountain r.mphitheatre, for the dwellers on the ;ea-coast. The clearing ap of a rain-storm has just given u? instead of the rainbow, an equatorial phenomenon — a broad, pris- matic column, stretching from the centre of the heavens, ([iiiie down the mountain-side, resting on the plain below and flooding: the valley with a gorgeous light. The tul'^'' (Thote does not differ, either in pretension, costliness, or inea^TPncss, f'-om like service at Catskill or other mountain resorts in our o'a a country. Sjlandjioei', January 'ilst. — We left our balky horse at Sura- baya. A brake, with an iron shoe, was fixed on a hind-wheel, Not- withstanding these checks, we were rolling rapidly down into \\w next valley, when the alarm sounded that a wheel was on fire. It was extinguished, and we were thundering forward M'ith grciiter velocity than before, when we had another fright — the cliiiin dtiln shoe broke. A rope of bull'alo hide was substituted for it, and we liad scarcely taken the road again, when the shoe itself gave wav. But, with careful driving, and our lopers holding us hack, wr escaped harm. 80 at six o'clock wo entered this very ])retty vil lage, which, although a native one, is laid out in streets and sqiiaris, with that degree of geometrical precision, cnnd ornamented with that peculiar taste, which is everywhere so observable in the Neth- REGENT PRAWIPvO DA KEDYA. 321 erlands. The governor-general liaving dispatclied notice of our eoiiiing, and also sent with us his young kinsman Mr. Lowe, avc were met outside of the town by a native subaltern officer, in Dutcli uniform, and conducted to the palace in the centre of a park largei* tlian the Capitol-grounds at Washington. Here, under a tasteful porte-cochet'e, we were received by the Regent Prawiro da Kedyu. He is a lineal descendant of the long-since dethroned Kings of Pad- jadjiira in the western empire of Java, and bears the titular hon- « 1 TlIK UEliKNT rilAWIKO DA UKUYA. ors of Padhc Sonnongoniz. The regent is thirty years old, digni- tiod and liandsonie, and has pleasing manners. A ^lohannnedan, ho wciU's a turban of orange and black muslin, a tight black-cloth jacket, with large gold buttons, and a standing collar, on M'hidi siiarklc three enormous diamoiuls, and with the whitest of linen it neck aiul wrist. A mrnng of gay-colored muslin, painted with li,L,nu'('s emblematic of his rank, hangs from his waist over black trousers. White stockings and gold-embroidered velvet shoes com- 323 THE EASTERN ARCniPELAGO, ETC. n •1 *>* J ' i i plete liis dress. He wears at his side a sliort sword, witli scabbard of gold, and hilt profusely covered with diamonds. Owing to the luiniidity of the climate, a customary law of land- scape gardening is so far reversed that the area which immediateh- surrounds the palace, although ornamented with trees, is paved with gravel instead of being a green lawn. The palace, one storv in height, is equal in its dimensions to the White House. The model and style of the buildings are perfect, but the materials ave fragile, and the construction unsubstantial and cheap. There is a ludicrous contrast between the vaulted ceiling resting on a double row of graceful columns, and the rough, uneven bamboo floor so light that the whole house trembles under every footstep. The fur- niture, entirely European, plain and ill selected, must have been supplied by some second-hand dealer in Amsterdam. Our princely host showed us our several apartments. The dinner at which he presided had the substantial character of a European feast with the addition of the curry, fruits, and sweets, of the island. x\ftcr leaving the table we were serenaded by a band of native musicians. Their music is derived from Ilindostan. The instruments arc reeds, bells, and a sort of violin. The tones are soft and monoto- nous, and free from discord, with a barely perceptible melody. Too weary to sit through the protracted entertainment, we retired t(j rest, with the strains still falling on our ears like the rustling of a gentle wind through the tree-tops. Sj I and} loer, January 22:. .*^;-rti«N^' to K o tfl 2 a ii»»- 1 326 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. m 'IT lie devolved on the interpreter the duty of showing ns our apart- ments. We thought his expressions of politeness sinister, and con- ceived at once a strong dislike for hiin. The overawed interpreter blundered, and conducted each guest to an apartment designefl for the other. The regent, discovering the mistake, rose to the frenzy of a " Blue Beard." He hobbled after us and corrected the blun- der with vehement objurgations. We did not understand a word of the reproof, but we all take notice that the unlucky Malay ^vllo thus combined the offices of interpreter and chamberlain, in tlie " royal " household, has not appeared since. At seven o'clock we were summoned to the great hall, where the regent received us. "What a transformation ! lie was now attired in royal Javanese costume, far more elaborate than that of the Pra- wiro da Kedya. His countenance was serene, his manner gentle, his discourse easy and courteous. He seemed twenty years younger. He banished our dislike at once, by telling us, with a humorous grimace, which none, but those who have actually known what the twinges of the gout are, can affect, that he is a chronic sufferer from that malady. When our host was seated in the centre of the room, three male dwarfs, neatly dressed in native scarlet livery, with tur- baned heads and naked feet, timidly entered an 1 crouched on the floor behind their master. One held a sword ar.d folded umbrella, another, a box filled with smoking-tobacco, pipes, and cigars ; the third, a brazier of charcoal. The three mutely and unceasingly studied the varying expressions of the regent's face. A Malay served first schnapps, then port-wine and madeira. Dwarf num- ber two now offered pipes, cigars, and cigarettes ; thereupon the regent ejaculated " Appee," when the brazier-bearing pigmy sprang quickly forward. In obeying a command, each dwarf, as he ap- proached master or guest, dropped on his knees and bowed his fore- liead to the floor, then assuming a natural position, made the ser- vice required. When it was completed he performed a " salani," and crept backward to his place behind the regent. Not only these dwarfs, but eacli servant in the palace, the regent's own son and heir, a youth of twenty-one, and every- native admitted to the presence, practises the same servile obeisance. The chief, on his THE REGENT'S INCOME. 327 part, does not deign to incline his head toward the servant, child, or subject, to whom he speaks, but, on the contrary, aftectedly looks away from or beyond him. The palace, the grounds, and the town dependent on it, are much more spacious than those at Sjiandjiocr, and abound with evidences of the regent's wealth. His annual stipend is one hun- dred and sixty thousand guilders, about eighty thousand dollars. At tirst it puzzled us to know how a barbarian can use such an in- come, but ue were not long in finding a solution. In part, it is laid out in gems and jewels for personal ostentation, in part for the support of his family, in part for maintaining his corps of " baya- deres " (ballet and singing girls), and a band of musicians, in part in keeping up the most costly stud on the island, and the residue in support of a large number of relations and dependants. The crescent dominates everywhere in Java, and doubtless the mosque draws heavily on the princely revenues. After an elaborate dinner, the day has ended, as at Sjiandjioer, with a native serenade. •ill". 1 r' h Ei^ i »» * A nOBTELRY IN JAVA. CHAPTEE IV. 'I if/?. SEWARD AT BANDONG. Excursion to the Cascade. — A Perilous Road. — The Water-Fall. — An Evening at the Pa'ace. — The Bayaderes. — Two Dwarfs. — A Chorus of Peasants. — The Little Prin- cesses. — An Excursion to Tankoeban. — Peruvian Bark. — The Top of the Volcano, — An Enchanting Scene. — The Javanese Prince. Bandong, January 23c?. — It rained all night. Bad as we knew the roads must be, the regent nevertheless ordered out his iniiiiense European carriage, with six horses, for an excursion to the " Cas- cade," which is one of the wonders of the island. We wore attended by a detachment of heavy dragoons in Dutch unifornis, barefooted postilions, and turbaned footmen. At the foot of every hill, and at e\ery slough, a crowd of peasants appeared, as if summoned bv previous command, to drag or push our unwilling wheels. It was like a royal progress, such as Queen Elizabeth used to make in tlie sixteenth century. Twelve miles from the town, we found twenty-five saddle- horses, a complement of sedan-chairs, and fifty peasants, awaitiiii!: us. Taking so many of these animals, vehicles, and men, as we had need of, we descended successive hills terraced with pale-green rice- fields, and glossy dark coffee-groves. The mounted members (»f the party agree that, in all their experience, they never had so ])er- ilous an exercise ; but the horses, as well as the bearers of the chairs, were well trained and sure of foot. Although an animal occasionally stumbled, and a chair-bearer lost his balance, we never- A WATEPv-FALL. 320 theless accompiislied the journey down the slippery precipices with- out serious accident. The river Grootc forms the canal which we have described at Batavia. That river here bears the euphonious name of Tjoerock Tjikapocndoeng. The torrents by which it is formed meet in the crorges above this place, and it makes a perpendicular leap of sev- enty feet into a dell, the sides of which are studded with lofty tree- turns festooned with orchids. The cascade in form and movement Ims a parallel in some of the many leaps of the West Canada Creek at Trenton, but its forest surroundings can have their like nowhere but within the tropics. After the first pleasing impression of the scene was over, we compared notes together, saying how absurd it must seem that we, who live almost in sound of Niagara, should have come this long distance to see a petty water-fall under the equator. Soon, however, we were made to understand that, for those to whom our cataract of thunder is unknown, this shining cascade is worthy of all admiration. The imagination of the na- tives has peopled the dell with gentle fairies of the air, and loving water-sprites. The Dutch gentleman who accompanied us had never seen any water-falls but the waste-weirs of the canals in Holland. He was aAve-stricken in the presence of Tjoerock Tjika- poendoeng. While to us the combination of sparkling water, dainty ferns, and breathing flowers was simply beautiful, it was for him sublime. So it is that accident or circumstance often determines our tastes and sentiments. Tliis evening the regent conducted us to the private palace in wliich his family reside. Apologizing for his wife's absence by reason of indi'rposition, he placed us in the centre of a spacious and lofty hall, softly lighted with tinted globe lamps, and graced with a curious medley of portraits of European celebrities — among them the Prince of Wales, the Queen of the iS etherlands, Jenny Lind, and Lola Montez. Wc were the only guests. A band of twenty- live native musicians was stationed on the porch. Hundreds of tlie peasantry of Bandong crowded the guard in front. The musi- cians played, in a low tone, a recitative accompaniment. Soon after this began, four " bayaderes," one after the other, glided into the ^ .1, aw* ; ^ 330 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. mem 1 room, with a movement in liarmony with the music. They wore apparently ei<^hteen years of a^e, and had that " golden " complex- ion which in the East is the highest type of beauty. The regent explained that the " bayadere " amusement was derived from the ancient Hindoos. The costimie of the performers has the same origin. It consists of a long, scant scarlet skirt, fastened above the waist, and tailing in folds quite over the bare feet. A stiilened band of scarlet and gold, ten inches wide, is drawn tightly about the waist, fitting just under the shoulder-blades, leaving the arms and shoulders entirely bare. The monture was a burnished helmet. AYondering at this barbaric magnificence, Mr. Seward askeO the DANPIN0-C08TUME. regent whether the helmet was gilded. He quickly answered in Javanese, that not only the helmet, but also the heavy girdle, the bracelets, and anklets, were of solid gold, and added in English, " California." Three ballets were performed ; it was not difficult A JAVANESE TOM THUMB. 331 to understand the spirit of each. Tlic first, gay and joyous, repre- sented a nuptial ceremony ; the second, energetic and vigorous, a battle, with ambuscade, surprise, struggle, and victory ; the third, DANCINO-OIBL. deep-toned and measured, a funeral pageant. The dancing con- sisted of slow and varied posturing and extravagant gesticulation, to the broken and imperfect time of the wild music. The " baya- deres " were not the only performers of the evening. There were two dwarfs, the eldest thirty years old, well proportioned and agile, and a counterpart of Tom Thumb. In the other, the peculiar Malay figure and features were exaggerated to absolute deformity. The regent took especial delight in this lusus naturce^ and laughed immoderately at the little creature's big head and bandy legs. We, who at home are more pained than pleased by the exhibitions of General Tom Thumb and his Liliputian wife, could not sympathize here with the barbarian prince. It was with difficulty that wc sup- pressed our disgust when the pitiable dwarfs were put forward as 1 \ it til yft)- l •1 k i TIIK EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. harlequins in tlio historical pantomimes which the "bayaderes" were executing. Dwarfs here remain the same important personages they were in European courts three hundred years ago. We ouglit to have mentioned that the lladhc Adepathe maintains seven ot them. The performance of the night had a very pleasing intcrhido. While the artistes were resting in the intervals, the guard at the door opened the way to a chorus 'of peasants. They executed a grotesipie dance, which gave unbounded delight, not only to our- selves, but to the unbidden native spectators outside. In the midst of this diversion, two children of the regent, girls of four and five, and very small, came in with their attendants, dressed in (piecnly satin robes and jewels. He presented them to us with niai ii'e.u ])ride, and, although they trembled daring the ceremony, they per- formed their little parts with all the formality of women. We saw the " bayadere " in Japan, and have now seen her in Java. She is, as we understand, a universal character in the East. Before the innovations of Buddha, the Bramins were an exclu- sive religious class in India. They constituted a priesthood, like the family of Aaron among the Jews. Descended from the gods, their persons were sacred. By a cunning artifice, they reconciled their followers to the consecration of women to their service. These women were selected at an early age from the highest fami- lies, reared and educated in the temples in the feminine arts and accomplishments; as well as in mysteries of religion. Such were originally the " bayaderes." If Madame Eoland, in view of the agonies of the state of France, exclaimed, " O Liberty, what crimes are committed in thy name ! " how much more might we exclaim, in view of this wicked imposture, what crime has not superstition perpetrated against the virtue of the human race! While, as we are told, the institution among the Hindoos retains its religious character, it has been copied withoiit that character throughout the East, whatever forms of religion may prevail, A troupe of bayaderes is considered a necessary ornament in the court of every prince, and in all rich families. They are allowed THE VOLCANO OV TANKOEUAN. 333 the education and accompllslinicnts wliicli arc denied the sex gen- erally, without being held to the practice ot virtue. January 2if/i. — An excursion to-day with the same cortege and retinue as yesterday, to the smouldering volcano of Tankoe- hiui. What a transt'onnation in the person of the young prince! Hitherto we had seen him barefooted, and in a mean sarong, kneel- ing and lying at his father's feet like a slave. To-day he has donned a manly and even princely costume. Booted and spurred, he mounted a spirited horse, and led our expedition. Leaving our carriages in a pretty village, at the foot of the mountain, and taking saddle-horses and chairs, we made the ascent ill live hours, by an excavated zigzag path, the construction of ^vl'ieli would have been im})0ssiblc for any engineer other than a Javanese practiced in tlic science of mountain-irrigation. At the liegiuning of the ascent, we were at the elevation whit-h the coflee- troe most affects. The orchards arc very luxuriant ; rising a hun- dred feet higher, we came to a plain covered Avith the Cincliona calisaija, as the tree is called, which furnishes the medicine known world-wide as the Peruvian baric, in its various forms. The culture lirts been introduced here, quite recently, from Bolivia. The trees arc yet young, and we are unable to determine their ultinuite size. The liesident informs us that the enterprise has already proved a success. He has shipped more than seven tons of the bark to Hol- land, taken from only the smaller branches or twigs of the trees. The next plateau gave us a view of the sugar cultivation ; a still liiglicr one yields cabbages, potatoes, and other esculents for the supply of the markets on the sea-shore. Kative timber grows upon the mountain-sides to the very summit, live thousand feet above the sea. The forests arc chiefly of teak ; the undergrowth, tree-ferns, with a great variety of flowering and fruit-bearing vines. We recognize the raspberry, although not belonging to any species cultivated with us. Troops of peasantry went before us and prepared the way by cutting steps on the most rugged declivities. We reached, at last, a plain covered with flre-blasted Irces ; sul- 334 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. "9 'u 4 pliurous fiiines impregiuited the atmosphere, and a clammy moist. lire cliilled us through and through. Following a circuitous ].ath through this desolate scene, we reached the brink of the double cra- ter, four or five miles in circumference and one thousand feet deep. There have been two crui)tions in such close proximity that oiilv a low ridge or promontory separates the craters. At the bottom of cither crater, there is a dark, yellow lake — or, rather, there is one lake extending over the bottoms of both — divided by a natural bridge. On the north shore or beach of this double lake, open chasms send up, from fiery springs, through dense clouds of smoke, a perpetual column of biazing sulphur. Another spring, somewhat higher, seethes like a vast furnace, as it jiours forth column after colunin of mingled mud and gaseous fluid, with rcverberatiii<: sounds like thunder. The banks of solid rock are almost jjcrpeii- dicidar. CJathering clouds, driven by strong winds from the wc'^t- ward, when they reach the precipice, roll in broad volumes down its sides into the abyss ; absorbing, then, the sulphurous fumes, they rise on the oi)pbsite side of the crater, charged with their luin- eral burden, which they distribute, on their return to the upjier air. While contem])latiiig these gigantic eilbrts of Nature, continued through ages, to resume her lost trampiillity and silence, we were shivering with cold and hunger. The plain surnmnding the vul- cano, and indeed the entire surface of the mountain-sunnuit, thouijli covered with such vegetation as the mineral blasts allow to fiourisli, is incrusted with volcanic ashes, like those which buried Pouipeii and other cities on the slopes of Vesuvius. In desccMiding, we ])cered constantly through the forest, to get sight of the ti<;er, which is the terror of tlu. island. Our gtiides, though armed against him, inforuied us that the beast has become wary, and iki longer attacks men in bands. Earth can h.avc no scene more enchanting th;in the dark, tower- ing mountains, shading off into verdant plains, which s|)rea(l bcfdrc our eves as we made our way back to the village we had left in the morning. AVe overtook, as we thought, the very clouds which we haen rolling through the snliihiirous crater, and, drivinir through them, were drenched with rain. Then, again, wlien the DUTCH RULE IN JAVA. 335 pun shone out, avc trod the silvev lining of other clouds, which were i)ouring their floods upon illuniinuted ])hiins below. A dinner, with good wine, and plenty of it, which our young thief had ordered, iiwaited us at the foot of the mountain, and he now ])resided right royally over the welcome entertainment. A second dinner at the })alace closed the day. We have come to like our host vastly. He is genial and joyous in liis intervals of gout, and, by a certain sympathy, has come to uiidcrstand much ctf our English, and to make us comprehend his viriKUidar. America is a subject of inexhaustible interest to him. lie understands it so well, that when Mr. Seward asked him to what country he thought William Freeman, the colored servant, who speaks English, and wears a European costume, belonged, he iviilied, "■ He was born in America, the son of a slave.'' He was entertaining us to-day Avitli accounts of his great ancestry, when nur young Dutch companion asked him what evidence he had of this lineage. He answered, with spirit, "What evidence have we that we all descended from Adam and Eve in the garden of Eden ? " The Dutch seem constantly on the watch for treachery on his part. r.ut suspicion is the punishment of usurpation. It apprehends dis- Kiyalty and treachery on every side. Would it be treason, indeed, in this humiliated and pensioned wearer of twelve diamond-hilted ancestral swords, to strike with them a blow for the lost sceptre of his tribe ? For ourselves, we cannot but think that the Dutch rule in this island, after two hundred years of trial, with their successive wars, is at last safelv e^^tablished. It can onlv be shaken now by tvrannv so extreme and \iolent as to arouse to resistance a simple race who as yet have nevir accpiircd the lirst idea either of personal freedom or uf national inde]>endeuco. CHAPTER V. tM 49 II t AT BATAVIA AdAIN.—TlIE MALAYS. Farewell to nandoiifr. — A Tropical Breakfast. — A Breakfast in the Botanieal Ganlonj.— A Princely Native Artist. — Dutch Colonization. — Character of the .Malay Uace.— Chinese Imnii'Tation. liatavia, January 2~>t/i. — Wo bade farewell to the nianfiiiticciit chief of I'aiuloiig, at sunrl.se yestcnlay, and we breaklluited with him at Sjiaudjioer, enjoviiioj in both cases the honors of music and tlie golden nnd)rella. We bathed and slept last night in the rof^e-pir- dens of Sindanlava. At noon to-day, we reentered the palace of Ihiitenzorg, which name, we now learn, was borrowed IVoni tl 'n' If 1 )alace of Frederick the (Ireat at Potsdam — iSa?is-soiicL A pretty illustration of tropical life greeted us here. The gov- ernor-general was absent ; the ladies were just assembled at Itrcak- fast in the coolest of mai'ble halls, dressed in tlie , this nioi'iiiiiir, a social hi'cakfast in tlic llotMiiical (iai'(lcns, under arciiiiiu' iKinyan-trees, in the [H'csi'iicc nf II l;n\'cr and i^-aver assianhlv llian excr lictore has liMMccd a feast ill dur ('Xperience. Tliesc s'pectator.s were iiujuisilivc monkeys, ;:i':iccfid ii'lralles, noMi' lions, mau'iiiticent tiu'ers, loijiiacioiis parrots, and splendid peacocks, not to s[»cak of hirds-ot-paradise. In short. 333 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. i-'i: tlic Zoological Museum was the scene of our festivity. When the repast was over, wo visited the museum, which is very rich in Malay antiquities and curiosities, chiefly war and official costumes, ornaments, and weapons, from all parts of the Eastern Archipeluiro. The Hall of the Council of the Indies, in the government pal- ace, is a spacious one, and adorned appropriately with a full collec- tion of life-size portraits of the successive governors-general. Java is proud of the native prince Rahden Saleh, who in Europe acquired great proficiency in the arts of painting and architecture. His most celebrated artistic achievements are, the Botanical Gar- dens, in which we breakfasted ; a fine portrait of the governor-gen- eral (Myer) ; and his own Italian villa, in the suburbs of Batavia. Mr. Pell gathered at his table, in the evening, a pleasant partv of Americans. This island is visited more by Americans than bv any other class of travellers. Batavia- Idoads, Steamer Singapore^ January 'itOth, Eveninfj,— To avoid an early and precipitate embarkation to-morrow, we pro- cured a steaui-tender, and came on board a packet still smaller than the Koningin der Nederlanden. What we have seen in Java, and learned there of oiner island*, justifies us in pronouncing the Dutch colonization in the Ea>t Indies a great and beneficent success. Less than twenty thou- sand Dutch colonists have established over a native population of seventeen millions the sway of the mother-country, which luiiu- bers only four millions. Notwithstanding occasional insurrections, that sway may be regarded as firmly estal)lished. It ouj^.it to enhance our admiration of tho enterprise, that, during two hun- dred years of its history, the Netherlands had to overcome not alone the natives of the islands, l)ut also to maintain an almost constant confiict with European com])etitors in these distant seas — Portugal, Spain, France, and (ireat Britain. Its administra- tion is severely criticised in British circles, on the ground of it> wearing too prominently the features of narrow mercantile monop- oly. Although these features must be admitted to be tyrannical, it cannot be denied, on the other hand, that the Dutch Government has practised Archipelago the United Si exterminated slavery on t The Dutch d( The island h.n and has also as wo can pc content, and overlooked tl cise of politic religions, enc( so generally t his own lano admitted that sonal liberty the ^[alavs : i civilization of dencc, /e mu ress of civilizf The Mala branches. 1 covcrei's on t Java, were C( emerged fron int 'llectuaHy ercrs alleged oxcclled all gruous does t an instinct ra the same Eii treacherous, w tractable peo liramins of 1 vast proportio 11 THE MALAY RACE. 339 lias practised far less severity and cruelty toward the natives of the Arc'liil>elag;o than Spain, and Great Britain, and their successors the United States, have practised in America. IloUand has neither exterminated native populati(jns in the Archipelag'O, nor imposed [ilavery on them, nor introduced African slavery among them, riic Dutch development of tlie resources of Java has heen effective. The island has an agriculture surpassing that of any other country, and has also a valuable and increasing foreign commerce. So tiir as we can perceive, it is free alike from political and social dis- content, and certainly it is free from pauperism. Xor is it to l)e overlooked that the Malays have been raised to the partial exer- cise of political functions. The government, while it toKjrates all religions, encourages missionary instruction, and maintains schools so generally that a Javanese who is unable to read and Avritc in his own language is exceptional. At the same time it must be admitted that no such vivitying social sentiments as those of per- sonal liberty and national independence have been conceived by the Malays ; and, while we can no longer doubt that the ultimate civilizafion of the whole human race is within the design of Provi- dence, 'c must reconcile ourselves to laws which render the prog- ress of civilization slow, and seemingly uncertain. The Malay race is not homogeneous ; it has many distinct branches. The branches which were found by the European dis- coverers on the peninsula, and on the islands of Sunuitra and Java, were compact and organized states, which had long before emerged from the tribal condition. Nevertheless, the Malays are int Uectualiy as well as physically feeble. The European discov- erers alleged that they could not count ten. But in one art they .'xeelled all mankind — this was the art of irrigation. So incon- grnons does this skill seem to be, that we might almost deem it an instinct rather than an ac(piirement of the Malays. Although the same Eiu'opean cxjilorers describe the J^falays as subtle and treacherous, we are obliijed to conclude that thev are a docile and tractaljle ])eople. Tlsty received their earliest religion frotn tlu! hraniius of India, as is proved by the ruins of Hindoo temples of vast proportions and great magniticence. They exchanged that re- 540 TITE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. tl ■ H •».■ ' t *. '- « 23 I I ■Jit « Hf^ion, with entire docility, for the faith of the crescent, which was brought to them from Arabia by the apostles of Mohammed. There was one occasion, indeed, in their history when they proved intrac- table and hostile. At the time of the arrival of the Europeans, not only the Malayan Peninsula, but Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, were found the field of active Chinese colonization. The European his- torians represent that the natives sought to exterminate the Chinese immigrants here, on exactly the same grounds that Chinese inimi- gration is opposed in the United States, namely, u fear that it would establish a system of heathen barbarism. In this native re- sistance to Chinese colonization, the European adventurers con- curred and co(>perated for a long time. But it has, at last, happih- ceased. The Dutch East India Cxovernment, as well as the Jh-itish Government at Singapore, are now effectively engaged in promot- ing that immigration in their respective colonies. JAVANG8B. CHAPTER VI. FROM BATAVIA TO MADRAS. An Uncomfortable Steamer. — An Accident. — At Singapore. — British Ilospitality. — Tlie I'oit of Penang. — A Loyal Englit^hman. — Bay of Bengal. — Ilalf-Wny Bound the World. — Arrival ut Ceylon. — Point do Gallc. — A Short Visit to the Shore. — A Hindoo Crew. — OfT Ponuicherry. Sfeame.' Slnffajwre, Jamtary ^\st. — If one wishes to learn liow skilfully common-carriers, demanding tlie liiglicst rates for freight and passage, can inflict the greatest discomfort, we recommend to him a lesson on the Singapore. She was appointed to leave I>atavia oil the 2r)th, while the British steamer to Ceylon was to leave Sin- gapore on February 1st. But the Singapore, which is the slowest vessel of the line, did not sail until the 27th. Notwithstanding this change of time, we hoped for two days of rest at Singapore. The cabin is a dove-cote — the holes are reached from the deck by a perpendicular ladder. AVe had the whole dove-cote to ourselves the night we lay in the roads at Batavia. The next night, and all other nights, we escaped from its stifling imprisonment by having our mattresses spread on the deck and protected by awnings. Our new lodging was made intolerably noisy by the incessant tramp of passengers, ofliccrs, seamen, ami servants. A dozen milch-cows were hauled by their horns on dock, before we left pert. Fifty miles at sea, one of them mutinied, and leaped overboard ; the ship gave her stern-chase, bow-chase, and cross-chase, for five hours ; 88 342 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 1 -; • J' * " 11 « it Wcis an unequal chase, but steam-power, baffled so long, prevailed at last. During the night, when we were crossing the mouth of tlio straits of Sunda, a northwest monsoon put the steamer to anctlar trial. The condenser gave way at midnight, and the vessel he- came a log. AVe, who were wakeful and alarmed, saw the officers hurrving backward and forward, whispering ratlier than proclaim. ing their commands. We overiieard them discoursing how to make up th ' shi))'-^ detijieney in life-boats in case she should be driven on th :^p ich.. It was a new experience to go down, in that tein- pestuo- ilg. 1 into the seething ship's hold, and take our iiionev from oui Irnnkt. .. 'd prepare for the apprehended disaster. AVluu might not be our fate, if, escaping from the perils of the sea, we should reacli the savage shore of Sumatra i Should we encounter there serpents, wild-beasts, cannibals? The storm, however, re- lented a little; after working the pumps, and hammering on the condenser, the engineer repaired the broken machinery, and the vessel resumed her course. AVe were demoralized by travel in this intemperate climate, The coarse food was not at all to our liking; we fell back on the fruits. The first day, lemons, limes, even bottled lemonade, were exhausted; the next day, the oranges, bananas, and ])ineaiij)lcs; the third day, and afterward, we had stale bread and bad coU'ec. We have arrived here at midnight, on the fifth day of our vovaire, No signal has been given of the steamer, and we therefore sleep on board, although we are to embark on the Behar for Ceylon, to- morrow. Steamer Behar, Straits of Malacca, February 1st. — The nnin- structed telegraph, at dawn, signalled the Singapore as a Dutdi man-of-war. N*jbody expected Mr. Seward in a belligerent char- acter, especially under a Dutch flag. Governor Ord and Consul Jewell, however, discov(M*ed the mistake, and took us ashore after long delay. The true English hospitality of Sir George and Ladv Ord, at Government House, soon banished the remembrance of the perils and privations of our recent voyage. THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. 343 Strerif^fli commands respect, and success, at last, overpowers envy. The same European populace of Singapore, which, only a very few years ago, cheered the American rebel Semmes, when he wont out and came in there from his traitorous depredations on unprotected national commerce, now followed our little American party to the wharf, and, as the Behar cast oif her lines at four o'clock, they shouted, with evident good-will : " Three cheers for Govenior Seward, three cheers for the ladies ! " " Well," said Mr. Sewiird, "let it be so ; it is not an unwholesome instruction that the nation which would enjoy the respect of other nations must retain its claim to it by union and courage," f.— The unin- |c as a Dutch ligerent char- 1 and Consul is ashore after )V'^e and Lady nbrance of the Pcnang, Fehruary itd. — As the straits of Sunda arc hr? cus- tomary channel of vessels which round Cape Horn for Jav.i, ( ina, and Japan, so the straits of Malacca are the proper passii^^c foi' ves- sels of like destination, which come by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. The British Government has, with its usual sagacity, secured the ancient town of Malacca on the Malay Pe. nsula. The straits are four hundred miles long. We have made the passage hither in forty-two hours, seeing often the high hills of Sumatra on our left, and the flat Malay Peninsula always in view on our right. The straits here are seven miles wide, and deep enough for vessels of the liirgest size. The mountainous, wooded island of Penang rises abruptly out of the sea, and lesser islands lend a picturesque aspect to the harbor. The port of Penang, sometimes called Georgetown, with a pop- ulation of four thousand, may, some time ago, have flourished, but it is now in a condition of neglect and decline. The population of theisliuid of Penang is fort}'^ thousand. Governor Ord, like every one else in this region, represents the Malays as improvident and idle. He bases his hope of the prosperity of the settlement upon Chinese immigration. Among the twenty or thirty boats, which came oft* here for passengers and freight, only one was Malay ; all the others were Chinese built, and manned by Chinese. We have improved, as best we could, the six hours' stay with which the Behar has indulged us here. In carriages, with Hindoo U4: THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. ■ m 'It drivers, wc made great speed, over a Bniootli road, to sec a cascade on the AVcst Mountain, two thousand feet above the sea. The people whom we passed, on the roadside, were often standinn^ or reclining in careless and picturesque attitudes, under the coccia-mit and arika palms. They seem effeminate and languid. Manitestlv, however, they bestow careful attention on their costumes, grace- fully made up of pure white or bright-colored turbans, Howiiii; sashes, and gay sarongs. There is an approximation to similarity in the dwellings of the Malays and Chinese here, while the foreign bungalows exliibit ;; sad corruption of European architecture, without gain from the Oriental. On all sides, and at every turn, there are swiiigin