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Wf.
VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD:
WITH A
HISTORY OF
THX
OREGON MISSION:
AND ROTXS or
JEVERAL YEARS RESIDENCE ON THE PLAINS,
• BORDERINO THE PACIFIC OCEAN: * ;
COMPRISINQ AN ACCOUNT OF UTTJCRESTINQ
ADVENTURES AMONG THE INDIANS
• WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS^
«
^ TO WHICH U APPENDED A FULL
DESCRIPTION OF OREGON TERRITORY,
ITS GEOGRAPHY, HISTORY, AND ftEUGlON ;
J*
DKSIGNKD FOR THE
BENEFIT OF EMIGRANTS TO THAT RISING COUNTRY.
BY REV. GUSTAVUS HINES,
LATI MISSIONARY OF THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, TO ORBOOM,
BUFFALO :
GEORGE H DERBY AND CO.
1850.
\ ^
\ 1
i
C/
•* ^i f
Entered according to Acl of Congress, in the year 1850, by
GUSTAVUS HINES,
In the Clerk's Office for the Northern District of New York.
#
W
^. *-
*
*
^
«k-
:}-'j^ ?^>i|-^/
JEWETT, THOMAS & CO.,
8TRREOTYPBRS AND PRINTERS,
BUFFALO, M. Y.
li
PREFACE.
It this volume does not commend itself to the favorable consideration!)
\( the reading public, it will not be owing to any deficiency of material
the possession of the author, to enable him to furnish a most interesting
ind instructive work. Though his opportunities for the acquirement of
^l)at kind of knowledge resulting from observation, and necessary to qualify
Dne to instruct and entertain mankind, during seven years of constant
journeyings in various parts of the world, both by sea and land, have been
srhaps greater than usually falls to the lot of even authors of books of
gravel, yet, conscious of his want of the requisite qualifications to array
lis work in that fascinating drapery necessary to charm the reader at once
|nto an unqualified approval, the author casts himself upon the public
rith all due deference.
The principal apology necessary to offer for the publication of this work,
a desire to connect with entertainment tho promotion of a more extensive
md particular knowledge of those interesting portions of the world where
it has been the privilege of the author to travel, and make his observations.
While the world is literally teeming with fictitious publications, here is
(presented a volume of facts, for the most of which the author is alone
[responsible ; and in the absenc* of the tinsel adorning of a glowing and
[high-sounding style, the truthfulness of what is narrated is the principal
[merit to which the work is entitled.
The " History of the Oregon Mission, '* to which the first chapter of
jthe work is devoted, has been drawn from the most reliable sources, and,
principally from the short notes of the late Rev. Jason Lee, and the
Journal of the late Cyrus Shepherd, the first missionary teacher in
I Oregon.
This part, the author flatters himself, will supply the Christian public
I with a needful desideratum, with respect to the true character of that
I important Mission, and of the courageous and self-denying men who were
the first to carry the Gospel across the Rocky Mountains, and to proclaim
it along the shores of the Pai ific Ocean.
The Journal, commencing with the departure of the Missionaries in
the Ship Lausanne in the fall of 1839, will introduce the reader to all
^-■■
w
IV
PREFACE.
that ia interesting relating to the largest expedition of the kind that ever
sailed from an American port. It will acquaint him with '* Life on the
Ocean Wave," and the different interesting phenomena of the great deep.
It will introduce to him the people of other countries, and give him
information with respect to many of their customs. It will present him
with a glimpse of oriental scenery, and occasionally unfold the beautieti
und Bublimitiee of the mountain landscape. It will conduct him through
perils by sea and perils by land, and perils among the most savage, de-
graded and treacherous of the human race.
The Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Indian Oceans ; Brazil, Chili, the
Sandwich Islands, Oregon, China, the Spanish Islands, and even Africa
herself, have all been laid under contribution to enrich the Journal ; and
from these different fields of observation have been collected facts, circum-
stances, and incidents of history, which cannot fail to enlist the attention
and excite the interest of the reader, and to induce him to pnrsue the
narrative, until, with the author, he shall have circumnavigated the globe.
The last few Chapters of the book are devoted exclusively to the
Geography and History of the Oregon Territory. From a residence of
several years in Oregon, connected with the fact that he made it a leading
object to become informed from personal observation, not only with the
geography of the country, with its productions ; the soil, climate, seasons,
mountains, valleys, prairies, forests, rivers, &,c. ; but also witli every
circumstance of importance which has ever transpired in connection with
either the civil, political or religious interests of the country, the author
believes himself to be qualified to present the inquiring public with more
correct information regarding that portion of the world, than has hitherto
been furnished from any source. For some of the facts connected with
the History of Oregon, the author would acknowledge his indebtedness to
the able and interesting Memoirs of Mr. Greenhow, the recent translator
and librarian of the department of State, at Washington. , . ,
With these remarks, conscious of the uprightness of his intentions, the
author would now place his offering upon the public altar ; counting no
other favor in its behalf than that to which the merit of his performance is
justly entitled.
» kind that ever
h " Life on the
' the great deep,
and give him
i^ill present him
old the beautieH
ct him through
lost savage, de-
razil. Chili, the
nd even Africa
e Journal ; and
1 facts, circum-
Bt the attention
to pnrsue the
jaled the globe,
lusively to the
a residence of
ade it a leading
t only with the
imate, seasons,
so witli every
ounectiou with
ry, the author
)lic with more
in has hitherto
ounected with
ndebtedness to
sent translator
intentions, the
counting no
performance is
INDEX.
1 •
BistantMiaaionanes— arrival.... 24
Alarming Phenomena 51
idveniures at Valparaido. 70
Lflray at Sea 75
^niuvernary of landing at Oahu 81
[8turia,Biie of . .. 89
Lrrival at Mission ...... 92
Arrival at " La Butte," 127
Lflecting History 186
Lrrival at Maui ....201
Lrrival at Hong Kong .........262
lrrival at New York .....315
latoria 370
Another tragedy at Fort Stikier .......994
Ishley's Expedition 407
irip May Dacre 11
lulllroga and Snakes 97
Iridge River 98
laker's Bay 199
labcock, Dr. J. L 202
lermuda islands . 313
llowing up the " Tonquin," 371
■L,
:|ralapoa Chief dhot 25
Centennary of Methodism >...'. 46
'i^hnsimas at Sea .......... 63
)ape Horn, doubling 64
Columbia River, crossing the Bar 86
/henook Indians , 88
/oluinbia River, Journey on ... .... 91
pooper — the Indian half-breed 126
" his remarkable adventures. ..126
pornelius Rogers 137
Jharles Roe 139
pauses of Panic .. 143
[Complaint of the Indians .....147
?ape Horn, Oregon 153
!)a8cade Range of Mountains 155
Bhangefl in Hawaiian Oovernmeat 211
!!hurehesat Sandwich Islands 214
7atchmg a Porpoise ....249
'..'hinese Heathen Temple at Macao 279
Canton, city of 282
!!ape of Good Hope ..304
!)ape Town . ........306
!3limate of Oregon 333
[Captain James Cook ... . 364
!7aptain Vancouver ..—..—. ...359
IJaptain Carver ... ..366
^Itirk, Lewis and Williams 366
!!aptain Bonneville ....410
^Constitution of Oregon ....426
)iBtillery abandoned 18
eath of Mrs. Maria Ann Lee 31
)eparture fromHonoIohu 85
>eparture from Umpqua ..107
)isa8t«r at the Umpqua ...115
)eath of Esquire Crocker, Cornelius
Rogers, wife and daughter 136
Dorio, Baptiste 165
Departure from Oregon 193
Description of Hong Kong 266
Desperate Affray 435
Elk Mountain 118
Estate of Mr. Rogers settled 140
Excitement continued 145
Election of Chieftain 183
Fort Walla Walla 11
First evcnin" on board ship 39
First Sabbath at soa 44
French man-of-war, Artimese 83
Frenchman's wife 101
Frenchman's story ....109
Flood at Champoeg 141
Feathercep, the Kay use Chief 166
Fin-back Whale 197
Fire at Honolohu 204
First arrival of Missionaries at the
Sandwich islands 212
Final departure and voyage home 244
Flower Gardens near Canton 292
Floating population of China 298
First American Ships to N. W. Coast.357
Fort Vancouver 388
Grey, Mr. hair-breadth escape 34
George Abernethey 131
Great Dalls, the 158
Gerritt P. Judd 222
Governor of Canton 262
Gulzlaff, Rev. Charles 263
House for Missiouaries built 12
Honolohn, city of. 77
Hostile demonstrations 142
"HoaTita," the vessel 203
Health of Hong Knng 873
History of Oregi-, 848
Hudson's Bay •\ny 380
Indian School enla^^-ed 15
Infant of Mrs. White drowned .. 33
Indian fight 99
Indian cooking 102
Indian dresses 107
Indians of Umpqua valley 117
Indian war-dance 174
Indian credulity 177
Indian eloquence 182
Indian feast , 184
Indian doctress killed 190
Independence of Sandwich Islands 223
Island of Formosa 260
Italian sailor 310
Incident on board ship 312
Journey down Columbia River 11*
Joseph PoomafTe— death 18
IND £X
ii
John Day 161
John Ricord 224
J. R. Morrison * 210
"Job House," near Canton 2H6
John Jacob Astor 368
Kane's Fork, arrival at 11
Kayiiae Chief, We lap-lu-lalct 23
Klacicttmaa Tribe 144
Kamehameha, King ....219
Lee, Rev. Jason 10
Lucy Iledding— death 17
Leave Rio de Janerio. 62
Leave Valparaiso............ 73
Leo, Rev. Daniel 87
Leave Columbia River 201
Ladrone Islands 258
Leave Ifong Kong ...300
Lumber in Oregon. .....316
Missionary Meeting at St Louis 10
Marriages in Oregon 25
Mission at the Dalls 29
Medical aid sent to the Dalls 32
Mission School 35
Magellan Clouds 53
Mowi, Island of 76
Manoah, valley of 83
McLaughlin, Dr. John 90
Missionary Hymn ...106
McCary'a marriage 133
Mount Hood 150
Murder in Oregon ...248
Macao, city of 276
Mountains of Oregon 321
Monopoly of the Hudson's Bay Co 385
New Houses built 26
Native Church at Ilonolohn 79
Nez Perce Indians 178
Ningpoo Exchange 286
Nortn- west Fur Company 374
Oregon Mission— history 9
Oregon Temperance Society 15
Oregon Missionary Society formed .... 26
Out of sight of land 41
Oahu, island of. 77
" Old Pomp," 115
Oregon Institute.., 241
Observations on the Celestial Empire. .296
Oregon Territory, its geography 317
Parker, Rev. Mr. arrival at Mission ... 16
Pacific Coast— land journey to........ 27
Passengers on the voyage 42
Porpoises 50
Para, visit to . . 82
Perilous journey 114
Pillar Rock 195
Population of Sandwich Islands 1)09
Puuch Bowl Hill 228
Productions of Sandwich Islands 230
Political History of Oregon 417
Rainy Season 12
Religious excitement at the Dalls 35
Rio de Janerio (t
Religious state of Rio 56
Royal family at Honolohu 8U
Return from Umpqua 119
Rev. James Olley. drowned 123
Rock Island Rapids 12)
Richard McCary's adventure i;(^
Recovery of a stolen horse 147
Reflections on the banks of the Colum-
bia 151
Ri :r be Shoots ICu
Red Wolf. ITU
Roman Catholic Missionaries '217
Return to Oregon '-03
Rev. George Gary ^ Zio
Rivers in Oregon 2r£
Restoration of Fort George 377
Slocum, Wm. A 21
Sea-sickness 41
Storm at sea .• 47
Slavery at Rio de Janerio 60
Straits ol Magellan 65
Sharks caught 74
Sandwich Islands, description of 78
Smith, Soublette and Jackson 110
Smith's fate Ill
Search for the body of Rev. Mr. Olley. 128
Second Tour to Vancouver 129
Sad catastrophe 139
Supper at Champoeg 140
Sandwich Islands, view of 207
Seaman's Chaplaincy at Honolohn 216
Sabbath observance by Hawaiians 231
Straits of Sunda 302
Sumatra and Java 303
Soil of Oregon 33S
SpanisD discoveries 3^19
Tour to the Umpqua 93
Talk with the Indians 104
Tour to Vancouver 120
Third visit to the Sandwich Islands 2o2
Timber of Oregon 3in
Trading Posts West of Rocky Moun-
tains 382
Tragedy on Columbia River .390
Umpqua, tour commenced... 29
Umpqua Fort 99
Umpqua Chief's wife killed 113
Vancouver, children baptized 12
Voyage from New York to Oregon 38
Valparaiso city 66
" definition of name 71
Valley of Lapwai 172
Voluntary interment of an Indian 186
Voyage to China 255
White Elijah 24
Wallamette River 31
Whales discovered ..... 49
Wallamette Falls 91
Wreck of the Alcesta 301
Young and Carmichael's letter 20
Yellow Serpent, and other Chiefs - - - -169
H]
In t
Head
formei
Misvsoi
■**i
«
56
8U
110
Id 123
1!W
ure i;s
) h:
if the Coluni-
151
lOll
m
•ies 217
503
, 235
, 325
5 377
21
41
, 47
60
65
, 74
lion of 78
son 110
Ill
V, Mr. Olley.128
r 129
, 139
140
207
[onolohn ....'216
waiians 231
302
303
3as
»19
93
101
120
U Islands.... 252
3;n
ocky Moun-
....382
Isr .S'JO
1
29
99
i 113
^d 12
Oregon 38
■^ 66
■ne 71
172
Indian 186
.253
. 24
. 31
. 49
. 91
.301
■ter 20
hiefs • . • -169
HISTORY OF THE OREGON MISSION.
..• *^0
CHAPTER I,
HiHiory of the Oregon mission, from its commencement to the departure of the
great reinforcement, in the fall of 1839, in the ship Lausanne.
In the year 1832, four Indians, belonging to the Flat
Head tribe, living west of the Rocky Mountains, per-
formed a wearisome journey on foot to St. Louis, in
Missouri, for the purpose of inquiring for the Christian's
Book and the white man's God. Early in 1833, notice
of tliis wonderful event was given in the Christian
Advocate and Journal, published in New York, and a
general feeling of christian sympathy was produced in
all the churciies of the land for these interesting heathen,
and a proposition was made that the Missionary Board
of the Methodist Episcopal Church proceed forthwith to
•jstahlish a mission among the Flat Head Indians. This
measure was strongly advocated by Dr. Fisk, Dr.
Bangs, and many others, while none were opposed to
the accomplishment of so worthy an object. While the
subject was being agitated. Dr. Fisk corresponded with
the Rev. Jason Lee, of Stanstead, C. E., having for-
merly been his tutor in the Wilbraham Academy, to
ascertain whether he would undertake the superintend-
ence of an Indian mission beyond the Rocky Mountains.
Mr. Lee was then employed on an Indian mission, under
the direction of the Church in Canada ; but yielding to
the solicitations of Dr. Fisk, and from a conviction of
duty, he left Canada, and repairing to Boston in June,
1
1(1
UtHfORV OI
\ ' '
1833, where the New En^rlaiul Conference was then in
session, lie was received into tliat body as a memher on
probation, ordained by Bisliop Iledding, and, on the
recomtnendation of the Board of Managers of the Mis-
sionary Society of the M. E. Cliurch, was apjwinted to
tlie superintendence of the Oregon mission.
In the following August, llev. Daniel Lee, a nephew
of Rev. Jason Lee, was appointed to labor in the same
field. When they received their appointment, they
knew of no way of getting to the fu^ld assigned them,
unless they ventured alone across the coniincnt, through
hostile tribes, or could find some vessel bound to the
^iorth-West coast, around (Jape Horn, that would take
their on board ; and they continued in suspense in
regard to their mode of pro(;eeding, until November,
when notice api)eared in the public journals that (Japtain
N. J« Wyeth, of Cambridge, Mass., had recently re-
turned from a tour west of the Rocky Mountains, and
that he contemplated returning to Oregon in the follow-
ing spring. C>n receiving this intelligence, J. Lee
immediately repaired to Boston, had an interview with
Capt. Wyeth* and readily obtained permission to accom-
pany him back to Oregon. Capt. W. had also made
arrangements to send a vessel, called the "May Dacre,"
round to the Columbia river, loaded with goods ; and
while in Boston Mr. Lee procured the necessary outHt
for his mission, and shipped it on board of ('apt. Wyeth's
vessel. Here, also, by the consent of the Board, Mr.
Lee engaged Cyrus Shepard, a lay member of the
church, to accompany him. During the interval be-
tween the time that they received their appointment,
and the period fixed upon for their departure, the Lees
held a number of missionary meetings in various parts
of the country, with very encouraging results. Early
in March, 1834, they left New England for the west,
and on arriving in Missouri, P. L. Edwards, also a lay
member, was connected with the mission party, which
now numbered four.
This company, after holding a most interesting mis-
sionary meeting at St. Louis, proceeded to Fort
THE OREGON MIHSION.
u
Independence, on the frontiers of Missouri, which is a
place of general rendezvous before starting for the
mountains, where thc^y met Capt. Wycth and his party,
on the 24th of April, 1834.
On the 25th, the expedition left Independence, and
(;ommen(;ed their wearisome? and perilous journey across
the Rocky Mountains, and on the 'iOth of June they
arrived at tin; general rendezvous of the American Fur
Traders on Kane's Fork, which is a branch of the ('olo-
rado of the West.
Here they continued till the 2nd of July, to recruit
lh(;ir jaded animals, and then j)roceeded on, and on the
15th, arrived at a pla(;e on the Snake river, west of the
mountains, where Wyeth and his men l)uilt a trading
station, whi(;h he called Fort Hall. Here the mission-
aries tarried until the 30th of July ; and as Capt. Wyeth
was d(!tained lunger for the purpose of finishing his fort,
the mission party resolved to proceed, in company with
Mr. Thomas McKay and Capt. Stewart, and on the first
day of September they arrived in safety at Fort Walla
Walla, on the Columbia river. They ascertained, on
their journey down from Fort Hall, that the Flat Head
tribe of Indians was not only very small, but very
disadvantageously situated for the establishment and
support of missionary operations among them; and this
brought them to the deternu nation to proceed down to
the lower country, to find a more eligible site for the
location of their mission.
Leaving their horses at Walla- Walla, they proceeded
down the Columbia in ono of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's boats, and after a tedious voyage of eleven days,
against strong head winds, they arrived in safety at
Vancouver on the 15th of September, and the following
night slept under a roof, for the first time for one
hundred and fifty-two nights. Worn out with the ex-
cessive labor and fatigue of their long journey, they
could well appreciate the kind hospitality with which
they were entertained by the gentlemen of the Fort ;
but they gave themselves but two days to rest, and to
consult with their hosts, who were well acquainted with
12
HISTORY OF
all the Indian tribes, concerninff the object they had in
view ; and en the 18th, J. and D. Lee were off on an
exploring tour through the country, to " make observa-
tions relative to the best location for the mission."
Examining the Wallamette valley and other portions
of the country, they returned to ^''ancouver on the 27th,
still undecided as to the proper place to make the
location.
Ihe merits of the different portions of the country
were considered, the Flat Heads, die Nez Perces, the
Kayuses, aiid other tribes, were faithfully reviewed, but
to the exclusion of all 'others, the Wa .nriette valley was
strongly recommended by Dr. John McLaughlin and the
rest of the gentlemen of Vancouver, as the most eligible
place for the establishment of the centre of their ope-
rations.
On Sunday, the 28th, Jason Lee i^»reached twice at
Vancouver, to a congregT-tion of English, Irish, French,
half-caste, &c., which were the first sermons ever
preached in the place, and doubtless the first that many
of the people had ever heard.
It was finally decided, " after n ich prayer for direc-
tion as to the place," to locat the mission in the
Wallamette valley, and as the rig May Dacre had
safely arrived in the Columbia wi i the goods belonging
to the mission, measures were immediately taken to
receive them from Capt. Lamb .'t, and convey them to
the place selected for the stat' n. The brig lay at the
mouth of the Multnomah, or Ic -er mouth of the Walla-
mette, and the site for the mission was seventv-five
miles up the river; but, after "much toil and hard
labor," Mr. Lee succeeded in getting up all the goods,
and they were landed on the mission premises on the
6th day of October.
The rainy season was commencing,, and as they had
no house to shelter either themselves or their goods
from the inclemency of the weather, they went imme-
diately to work to prepare logs, &c., to build a house.
The rain fell in torrents long before their house was
erected, yet they labored constantly during the day, and
THE OREGON MISSION.
H
it night were obliged to lie down together in a small
[tent, scarcely large enough to contain them, and,
[wrapped in their wet clothes, seek a few hours' repose
[to prepare them for the toils and storms of the ensuing
day. Their house was 32 feet by 18, and on the 3d of
November they moved their goods into it, though they
[had put on but ten feet of the roof. So soon as they
got their house thus partly covered, they began to
[receive Indian children into their family, witn the design
[of establishing a mission school, and also to labor for the
[spiritual benefit of all the Indians, and the few French
[people who had settled in the country. Meetings were
[established at the house of Mr. Joseph (xervais, and
held every Sabbath, the principal attendants being
[French and half-caste.
On the 14th of December, Mr. Jason Lee visited
[Vancouver, where he preached, and baptized four adults
and seventeen children. In consideration of these ser-
I vices he received, in donations, from the gentlemen of
ithe company, the sum of twenty dollars, for the benefit
I of the mission. During the winter of 1835, the missiona-
ries were alternately employed in improving their house,
[procuring supplies, preaching the gospel, and teaching
the Indian and half-caste children to read and write.
Thrown entirely upon their own resources, in the
[spring, to guard against future want, they commenced
cultivating the ground. There was no alternative; they
must do so, or starve. While they saw some fruits of
their labors in other respects, this department of their
wcxk, during the summer, was greatly prospered, for in
the fall, after they gathered in their crops, they found
themselves with a good supply of wheat, peas, oats, and
barley, and two hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes
in their cellar. This, with six barrels of salmon which
J. Lee purchased fresh of the Indians at the Wallamette
Falls, and salted with his own hands, and took up the
river to the mission, furnished them with the means of
subsistence for the following year.
Soon after the missionaries first arrived, Mr. Cyrus
Shepard was employed at Vancouver, to teach the chil-
B-«-
14
HISTORY OF
5'i
dren belonging to the Fort, but losing his health, he was
obliged to leave his school. On the Ist of March he
ascended the river in company with Mr. Lee, and from
that time remained on the Wallamette station.
Late in August a circumstance happened which shows
to what dangers the missionaries were exposed. A boy
whose Indian name was Ken-o-teesh, belonging to the
Si-le-lah tribe, was received into the mission in April,
and died on the 19th of the following August. A few
days after his death, his brother came to the mission,
determined to seek revenge for the death of Ken-o-
teesh, by taking the life of Daniel Lee and Cyrus
Shepard. He remained over night, and was prevented
from accomplishing his design only by the interposition
of an Indian who accompanied him. Bent upon glut-
tine his vengeance on somebody, he crossed the river,
and fell upon a band of unarmed Indians, and savagely
murdered several of them.
In the month of September, nearly the whole mission
family were attacked with the intermittent fever, and
the mission house was converted into an hospital, with-
out an attending physician. A scene of distress now
presented itself, and our missionaries not only suffered
personally, but were obliged to descend to the most
menial services, in waiting upon the Indian children, for
whose comfort they manifested the utmost care.
Mr. Daniel Lee and Mr. P. L. Edwards left the
mission premises the last of September, the former for
Vancouver to obtain medical aid, and the latter to
embark on board the Brig May Dacre for the United
States. Remaining awhile at Vancouver without bene-
fit to his health, Mr. Lee, by the advice of Dr. Mc-
Laughhn, embarked on board one of the Hudson's Bay
Company's ships, bound for the Sandwich Islands, and
in consequence of this, Mr. Edwards relinquished the
idea of leaving the country at that time, and returned
to the mission, and late in October established a school
for the winter, at Campment du Sable, on Cliampoeg.
To provide for future contingencies, the missionaries
sowed that fall twenty-seven bushels of wheat.
THE OREGON M18810N.
15
On the 26th of November, the Rev. Mr. Parker a
Presbyterian Clergyman from the State of New York,
arrived at the mission, where he was most cordially
received. He had been sent out by the A, B. C, F. M.
to explore the country, and ascertain the most eligible
site for a mission. He remained at the station two days
only, when he returned to Vancouver. Dr. Marcus
Whitman accompanied him over the Ro.'ky Mountains,
but on arriving at the Snake river, the doctor returned
to the States for the piiroose of inducing the Board to
appoint missionaries forthwith to Oregon.
The enlargement of the mission family by receiving
Indian children from time to time, rendered it necessary,
at the close of this year, for the missionaries to build an
addition to their house, 32 by 16 feet. This they did
principally with their own hands. In reviewing the year,
the missionaries found cause for thankfulness in the
success which had attended their labors, though they
had been called to pass through some trying scenes,
and to meet with many discouragements. They had
received fifteen children into the family, of whom four
had died, and one had been dismissed, leaving ten under
their instruction. These were making rapid progress
in manners, science, and useful labor ; and by the bless-
ing of God the missionaries had a sufficiency of whole-
some food for themselves and the children.
In February, 1836, hearing it rumored abroad that
certain Americans, who had arrived in the country,
were about to commence the manufacture of rum, and
fearing, from a knowledge of the material of which the
Oregon community was composed, that intemperance
would sweep over their field of labor, the missionaries
invited the settlers to the mission house, and formed the
Oregon Temperance Society, the first organized west
of the Rocky Mountains. Three only, besides the
members of the mission, signed the pledge at first, but
subsequently the number increased to eighteen.
A.bout the first of March a vessel arrived in the Co-
lumbia from the Sandwich Islands, bringing intelligence
that the health of Daniel Lee had much improved, but
t :
HI"
I'M
HISTORY OF
for the general good of the cause he had concluded to
remain till another opportunity should present itself for
returning to Oregon. The natives of Oakee had made
a contribution to Mr. Lee for the benefit of the Oregon
mission, amounting to two hundred and fifty dollars.
At the same lime that this intelligence reached the mis-
sion, a letter was received by Jason Lee from Dr.
McLaughlin, inclosing a subscription for the benefit of
the mission, to the amount of one hundred and thirty
dollars, all from the gentlemen at Vancouver. As the
letter shows in what light these intelligent persons
viewed the mission at that time, I insert a copy. It is
as follows :
"Fort Vancouver, 1st March, 1836.
The Rev. Jason Lee :
Dear Sir^ — I do myself the pleasure to hand you the
inclosed subscription, which tne gentlemen who have
signed it request you will do them the favor to accept
for the use of the mission, and they pray our Heavenly
Father, without whose assistance we can do nothing,
that of his infinite mercy he may vouchsafe to bless and
prosper your pious endeavors — and believe me to be,
with esteem and regard, your sincere well wisher and
humble servant, »^ _
John McLaughlin."
»i
iryfr^X,,-,
The business of the mission continued as usual, with-
out any thing especial taking place, until the 30th of
April, when we find Mr. J. Lee at the death bed of G.
Sergent, a native of New England, whom he found in
extreme agony both of body and mind. As Mr. Lee
entered, the dying man told him that as he had lived a
life of wickedness, he was about to die an awful death.
The missionary pointed him to the Redeemer of the
world, and commended him to God in prayer. He ap-
peared deeply affected, and responding a hearty ameriy
m a short time ceased to breathe.
Teaching the children, preaching to both the settlers
and natives, visiting the sick, attending funerals, and
THK OREGON MISSION.
17
harvesting their crops, employed the time of the mis-
ionaries during the summer ; and in the fall, to make
leir " bread sure, " they sowed thirty-four bushels of
rheat.
In the latter part of August there arrived a vessel in
Columbia river from England, by the way of the
landwich Islands, having on board the Rev. Daniel Lee,
/ho had recovered his health, and Rev. Mr. Beaver
^nd lady. Mr. Beaver had been sent out as chaplain
the Hudson's Bay Company at Vancouver. He was
clergyman of the Church of England. Mr. Lee
irrived at the mission at a very seasonable time to
Jender himself useful, not only in his appropriate mis-
ionary work, but also in assisting to take care of the
ick members of the mission family. At this time Mr.
. Lee was suffering under a severe attack of the inter-
littent fever. Partially recovering from this attack, he
ftarted for Vancouver on the 6th of September, taking
nth him a favorite Indian girl whom he called Lucy
[edding, to obtain medical aid in her behalf
On the 12th, he returned, bringing information of the
irrival at Walla- Walla of the Rev. Mr. Spaulding and
afe. Dr. Whitman and wife, and Mr. Grey, who had
)een sent out as missionaries by the A. B. C. F. M.
lS Mr. Lee had taken the lower country, they decided
ipon locating their mission in the interior, among the
".ayuse and Nez Perce Indians. These were the first
imerican ladies that ever crossed the Rocky Mountains,
ind their arrival in the country formed an epoch in the
listory of Oregon. *
During the month of September, nearly all the mission
family were sick at once, with the intermittent fever,
md another was taken to Vancouver, by Mr. Edwards,
For medical aid. Mr. Edwards returned on the 30th,
)ringing with him Lucy Hedding, who had received no
)enefit from medicine. She died on the 5th of October.
On the 22nd, J. Lee had a third attack of the fever,
feo severe as to deprive him of reason for a short time.
Te continued to suffer, without medical advice, until the
51 8t of November, when, in a very reduced state, he
I*
18
HISTORY OF
ifr
set out for Vancouver, where he arrived two days
afterwards.
During his absence, died Joseph PournafFe, a member
of the mission school, aged 17 years. This lad was
very attentive to reliffious instruction, and left off play
and work on the Sabbath, immediately on being told it
was wrong. He often expressed much thankfulness
that the missionaries had come to the country, to learn
him to read, and tell him about God. He was a pro-
mising youth, and, if he had lived, would probably have
been a olessing to the country. As it was, the missiona-
ries had much consolation in his death, for he gave them
satisfaction that their labors had not been in vain.
On the 28th of December, after an absence of five
weeks, J. Lee returned from Vancouver with his health
somewhat improved, though still quite feeble.
Eighteen children and adults had been admitted into
the mission family during this year ; two had died and
one had run away. The missionaries found on their
hands, the last day of December, twenty-five persons ;
but having enlarged their farming operations, by the
blessing of God they found themselves in the possession
of supplies amply sufficient to sustain them until another
harvest.
On the 2nd day of January, 1837, the members of
the mission found cause to rally their forces, to support
the cause of temperance. A meeting of the Temperance
Society was called at the mission house ; one member
who had violated the pledge, was excluded, and three
more were added to the Society. As the reports con-
cerning the distillation of ardent spirits were about to be
verified by a couple of men, named Young and Carmi-
chael, it was unanimously resolved by the meeting to send
them a written request, signed by all the members of the
Oregon Temperance Society, to desist from their unholy
enterprise. The following is a copy of the correspond-
ence which took place between the Society and Messrs.
Young & Carmichael, and is inserted to show what
stand the missionaries took in guarding the morals of
the community, and the extent of the influence they
THE OREGON MISSION.
19
exerted. But for these measures, intemperance would
have devastated the country.
** Messrs. Young & Carmichael :
" Gentlemen, — Whereas we, the members of the
Oregon Temperance Society, have learned with no
common interest, and with feelings of deep regret, that
you are now preparing a distillery for the purpose of
manufacturing ardent spirits, to be sold in this vicinity;
and, whereas, we are most fully convinced that the
vending of spiritous liquors will more effectually para-
lyze our efforts for the promotion of temperance, than
any other, or all other obstacles that can be thrown in
our way ; and, as we do feel a lively and intense interest
in the success of the temperance cause, believing as we
do, that the prosperity and interests of this infant and
rising settlement will be materially affected by it, both
as it respects its temporal and spiritual welfare, and that
the poor Indians, whose case is even now indescribably
wretched, will be made far more so by the use of ardent
spirits ; and whereas, gentlemen, you are not ignorant
that the laws of the United States prohibit American
citizens from selling ardent spirits to Indians under the
penalty of a heavy fine ; and as you do not pretend to
justify yourselves, but urge pecuniary interest as the
reason of your procedure ; and as we do not, cannot
think it will be of pecuniary interest to you to prosecute
this business ; and as we are not enemies, but friends,
and do not wish, under existing circumstances, that you
should sacrifice one penny of the money you have
already expended; we, therefore, for the above, and
various other reasons which we could urge,
" 1st. Resolved, That we do most earnestly and feeU
ingly request you, gentlemen, forever to abandon your
enterprise.
"2nd. Resolved, That we will and do hereby agree
to pay you the sum you have expended, if you will give
us the avails of your expenditures, or deduct from tnera
the bill of expenses.
20
HISTORY OP
I!
Iff
" 3d. Resolvedf That a committee of one be appointed
to make known the views of this society, and present
our request to Messrs. Young & Carmichael.
" 4th. Resolvedf That the undersigned will pay the
sums severally affixed to our names, to Messrs. i ounc
<& Carmichael, on or before the thirty-first day of
March next, the better to enable them to give up their
project."
Then followed the names of nine Americans, and
fifteen Frenchmen, which then embraced a majority of
the white men of the country, excluding the Hudson's
Bay Company, with a subscription of sixty-three dollars,
and a note appended as follows:
" We, the undersigned, jointly promise to pay the
balance, be the same more or less.
** Jason Lee,
. Daniel Lee,
Cyrus Shepard,
P. L. Edwards."
To the above request Messrs. Young & Carmichael
returned the following answer:
'"^ "Wallamette, 13th Jan., 1837.
" To the Oregon Temperance Society:
" Gentlemen^ — Having taken into consideration your
request to relinquish our enterprise in manufacturing
ardent spirits, we therefore do agree to stop our pro-
ceeding for the present. But, gentlemen, the reasons
for first beginning such an undertaking were the innu-
merable difficulties placed in our way by, and the
tyranising oppression of the Hudson's Bay Company,
here under the absolute authority of Dr. McLaughlin,
who has treated us with more disdain than any Ameri-
can citizen's feelings could support. But as there have
now some favorable circumstances occurred to enable
us to get along without making spiritous liquors, we
resolve to stop the manufacture of it for the present;
but, gentlemen, it is not consistent with our feelings to
I ir '.
THE OREGON MISSION.
21
receive any recompense whatever for our expenditures,
but we are thankful to the Society for their offer.
" We remain, yours, &c.,
** YouNO & Carmichael."
The missionaries from the first had proved a great
blessing to the country, not only in a spiritual and moral
point of view, but in furnishing employment to many
individuals otherwise without the means of livelihood ;
and setting an example of industry and perseverance in
the temporal departments of their worK, they gave a
spur to all business operations, and the community
seemed at once to spring from that state of inactivity
into which it had been thrown by the domineering
policy of the Hudson's Bay Company, into one of
great enterprise and prosperity. In the early part of
January a circumstance transpired which enabled the
members of the mission and others, to carry out a design
which they had previously formed, and in the execution
of which the temporal interests of the country would be
greatly promoted. This design was to send an expedi-
tion to California to purchase and drive to Oregon a
band of neat cattle for the supply of the settlers. The
circumstance referred to was the arrival in the country
of Wm. A. Slocum, Esq., of the United States Navy.
Up to this period there were no cattle in the country,
except what belonged to the Hudson's Bay Company,
and they would not sell, but compelled the settlers, if
they had cattle at all, to take cows merely for their
milk, and return them with their increase. This looked
too much like oppression to Mr. Jason Lee, and he
resolved, if possible, to break up the cattle monopoly,
believing that he would thereby confer a lasting benefit
to the country. On the arrival of Mr. Slocum, he pro-
posed to take to California, any number of persons that
might be needed, free of expense except board ; and
a meeting was immediately called at the mission house,
for the purpose of forming a California Cattle Company,
and maKing the necessary arrangements for the expedi-
tion. Each person belonging to the Company was to
33
HISTORY OF
I ,
share in proportion to the amount of money he invested,
and the persons who went with the expedition were to
be paid a stipulated sum per month in cattle. P. L.
Edwards and Ewing Young, were appointed to take
charge of the Company, and Thursday the 19th of
January was fixed upon as the day for the vessel to sail.
Mr. Slocum, while in Oregon, manifested a deep
interest in the welfare of the rising settlement, and
especially in the prosperity of the Oregon mission. He
highly approved of the method the missionaries had
pursued to benefit the Indians, and said he was perfectly
astonished at the improvement those had made who
were under the care of the mission. In company with
Mr. Jason Lee, he visited the several farms m the
settlement, and on the 14th, took his leave of the Walla-
mette, Mr. Lee accompanying him to Vancouver. A
letter signed by the missionaries, commendatory of the
course Mr. Slocum had pursued in the country, had
been put into his hands before leaving, and he returned
them the following answer, which contained a donation
of fifteen dollars lor the benefit of the mission. This
letter was put into the hands of Mr. Lee during his last
interview with Mr. Slocum.
^H
■ '%^_ " ** American Brio Loriot, off the Wallamktte,
' Oregon rivers 18th January, 1837.
I
" My dear Sirs : — I have much pleasure in acknow-
ledging the receipt of your kind favor of the 16th, and
I beg leave to thank you for the expressions of regard
contained therein. It was indeed a source of regret
that I could continue no longer at your mission on the
banks of the Wallamette, for the visit was to me one
of exceeding interest. On my return to the civilized
Earts of our country, I shall not hesitate to express my
umble opinion that you have already effected a great
public good, by practically showing that the Indians
west of the Rocky Mountains are capable of the union
of mental and physical discipline, as taught at your
establishment. For I have seen with my own eyes,
children, who, two years ago, were roaming their own
THE OREGON MISSION.
i invested,
n were to
le. P. L.
d to take
J 19th of
3el to sail,
i a deep
nent, and
3ion. He
aries had
perfectly
lade who
mny with
IS in the
le Walla-
uver. A
ry of the
itry, had
returned
donation
n. This
? his last
lETTE,
•I
acknow-
6th, and
regard
regret
on the
me one
civilized
ess my
a great
Indians
union
your
eyes,
tir own
native wilds in a state of savage barbarism, now being
brought within the knowledge of moral and religious
instruction, becoming useful members of society, by
being taught the most useful of all arts, agriculture, and
all this without the slightest compulsion.
" As an evidence ot my good will towards the lauda-
ble etTorts vou are making in this remote quarter,
debarred of almost every comfort, deprived of the
associations of kindfed, and of Aowe, I beg you to accept
herewith, the sum of fifty dollars ; only regretting that
my means at present will not allow me to add more, I
pray you to accept, my dear sirs, the assurances of the
unfeigned regard of,
" Your friend and ob'nt servant,
" Wm. a. Slocum, U. S. N."
Mr. Slocum's vessel left the Columbia river about the
first of February, and arrived safely in the Bay of San
Francisco, on the coast of California. The cattle com-
pany proceeded immediately to purchase a large band
of cattle, and a number of horses, with which they
started for Oregon. In crossing a range of mountains
separating the two countries, they were attacked by the
Rascal Indians, and a number of their cattle were killed,
but they at length succeeded in driving back their foe,
and saving the remainder. Contrary to the predictions
and wishes of the members of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, who indirectly opposed them at the outset, they
arrived in safety in the Wallamette valley with six
hundred head of cattle, and distributed them among the
settlers, according to the provisions of the compact.
This successful enterprise, which laid the foundation for
a rapid accumulation of wealth by the settlers, was
mainly accomplished through the energy and persever-
ance of Rev. Jason Lee.
Sometime in July, 1836, We-lap-tu-lekt, an Indian of
the Kayuse tribe, came to the mission on the Walla-
mette, and brought two of his sons, whom he desired to
have remain to be educated. He had travelled with the
missionaries, v/hile on their way from Fort Hall to
24
HISTORY OP
Walla-Walla, and seemed very attentive to religious
instruction, and desirous that missionaries should settle
in the Kayuse country ; but none having yet come, he
resolved to visit the mission in the lower country. He
was so well pleased that he determined to return to his
country, and bring his family down to the mission, as
soon HB J ossible. This he accomplished by the 6th of
September, when he settled his family near the mis-
sion station. Some of his children attended the school,
and appeared to be making rapid improvement, but in
February, 1837, his family began to suffer with disease.
Two of his children died in quick succession, and a third
was fast sinking with a burning fever. We-lap-tu-lekt
was frightened, and supposed that all his family would
die, if he did not leave the place. He accordingly fled
in a canoe, but just at the moment of his landing at
Vancouver, another of his family expired. These re-
peated deaths in one family, and the fact that most of
the mission children were sick, and some had died but
recently, began to create a prejudice in the minds of the
Indians, against having their children remain with the
mission, and after this it was not so easy to procure and
retain them.
In February, 1835, Mr. Lee addressed letters to the
Board in New York, earnestly soliciting them to send
out a reinforcement. In compliance with this request,
the Board appointed Dr. Elijah White and wife, Mr.
Alanson Beers and wife. Miss Ann Maria Pitman, Miss
Susan Downing, Miss Elvina Johnson, and Mr. W. H.
Wilson, assistant missionaries. This company sailed
from Boston in July, 1836, and, after several months
detention at the Sandwich Islands, entered the mouth of
the Columbia river in May, 1837. Intelligence of their
arrival in the Columbia was received on the 18th of
May, and the following day J. Lee went down the river
in a canoe to meet them and conduct them to the
station. On the 27th he returned with five of them, the
others remaining awhile at Vancouver. Their arrival
in the country was hailed by the four lonely brethren,
who had hitherto composed the mission, with great
thidnes^
be cl
rent fei
icy haJ
>r man|
The
statj
le mis8|
>y anot
lesired
>f the kl
The 1
[inckle;
|einforc(
them ba
that mo
tvith inf
Dr. Wh
On th<
I'emperi
V^hen sh
\. Lee, ]
7welve
lory infl
On S;
Oregon
)f the m
'he sei
jommer
ing to tl
the Re\
>hepar(
r'lih M
'his ws
jacram(
thrilling
fessed t
rion, ui
)rough
the sa(
THE OREGON MISSION.
25
[ladncss, and the more so because they were thenceforth
be cheered by the presence and sympathy of intelli-
gent females, from their own native land, especially as
icy had found, long before this, that " it was not good
>r man to be alone."
The next day after the arrival of the reinforcement at
ic station, Sam-nik, a Calapooa chief, was brought to
le mission house, dreadfully mangled, having been shot
}y another Indian, while sleeping in his lodge. He
lesired surgical aid. This was the second circumstance
>f the kind that had transpired within a short time.
The last of May, the mission was visited by Captain
[inckley and lady, of the vessel that brought out the
Reinforcement, and the first of June, J. Lee accompanied
lem back to Vancouver. On his return, the 13th of
[hat month, he found Cyrus Shepard dangerously sick
^ith inflammatory fever; but under the faithful care of
)r. White, he soon recovered.
On the 4th of July, the annual meeting of the Oregon
^emperance Society was held at the mission house,
^hen short and appropriate addresses were delivered by
Lee, D. Lee, A. Beers, W. H. Wilson and Dr. White,
'welve new members were added, and a most satisfac-
tory influence was gained for the cause of temperance.
On Sabbath, the 16th of July, a large assembly for
Oregon convened in the pleasant grove of firs, in front
)f the mission house, for the purpose of religious worship,
"^he services were conducted by Rev. Daniel Lee, and
commenced by his uniting in lawful matrimony, accord-
ing to the form laid down in the Methodist Discipline,
the Rev. Jason Lee with Miss Ann Maria Pitman, Cyrus
^>hepard with Miss Susan Downing, and Charles Roe
riih Miss Nancy, an Indian girl of the Calapooa tribe,
'his was followed by an appropriate discourse, and the
jacrament of the Lord's Supper. It was a season of
thrilling interest to all present. Two persons who pro-
fessed to have recently experienced the comforts of reli-
gion, united with the church, and one of them, though
)rought up a Quaker, was baptized, and both partook of
the sacrament.
I'^'K
',1
I ! :l
9» HISTORY OP
No particular change took place in the mission in
consequence of the arrival of the reinforcement, with
the exception of the enlargement of its financial opera-
tions. Two log houses, for the accommodation of the
families, and a blacksmith shop, were immediately
erected. A short time after, a frame house was built,
located one mile from the station back from the river,
and was occupied by the family of Dr. White. This
was the only comfortable house as yet owned by the
mission. During the same season Mr. Lee bought out a
Frenchman who had built a small house, and opened a
farm so near the mission premises as to be much in the
way. By this purchase the mission enlarged its farm-
ing impr-'^ements, and having now a large band of
cattle, resulting from the California expedition, Mr.
Josiah Whitcomb was employed by the mission to take
charge of the farming operations, as it was impossible
for the Lees to attend to them and look after the
spiritual wants of the people.
The number of children and adults in the mission
continued to increase, notwithstanding the numerous
deaths that had taken place, until the average number
attending the day and sabbath school was from thirty to
thirty-nve. The school was under the judicious man-
agement of Cyrus Shepard, and at this period was in a
very flourishing condition. The scholars were taught
the English language, and made rapid proficiency in
reading, writing, spelling, geography, and arithmetic.
As the sickly season came on, some of the missionaries
performed two tours through the country, for the benefit
of their health. On the 2d of August, Mr. and Mrs.
Lee and Mr. Shepard, accompanied by Mr. Desportes
as a guide, started up the Wallamette river on horse-
back, and journeying leisurely for several days, towards
the south, took a circuit eastward, and striking the head
waters of the Molala river, followed down that stream
to the north, towards where it forms a junction with
the Wallamette. Crossing the latter river at Champoeg,
they returned in safety to the mission, after an absence
of ten days. They saw and imparted instruction to a
THE OREGON MISSION.
27
mission in
[few bands of Indians on their route, and returned with
[reanimated health.
On the 14th of August, Mr. J. Lee and Mr. C. Shep-
lard, with their wives, accompanied by Joseph Gervais
las guide, left the mission to perform a land journey to
[the Pacific coast. They traveled one day and a half,
[through a very beautiful and fertile country, crossing
[the Wallamette and Yamhill rivers, and encamped the
[second night at the foot of the mountains which separate
[the Wallamette valley from the Pacific ocean. Next
[day they commenced crossing the mountains, but found
[the trail exceedingly difficult, on account of the abrupt-
[ness of the ascending and descending, and the numerous
large trees that had fallen across it. This rendered
[their progress very slow, and the third night they
nicamped in a deep, dark valley, among the mountains,
[twelve miles from the shore. During the night it was
[very rainy, and also the following day ; but thev moved
(camp in the morning, and at 5 p. m. pitched tneir tent
in a beautiful cypress grove, within a short distance of
[the shore, so that their encampment commanded a fine
[view of the broad expanse of the Pacific ocean.
Here they continued for one week, visiting the Kille-
look Indians, who inhabit that portion of the country,
land preaching to them as they were able. They
jnjoy-^d the clams and other shell-fish, which they pro-
cured from the delightful sandy beach, and invigorated
themselves by frequent bathing in the salt water. On
the 26th, they left their pleasant encampment, and after
[four days^ toil in crossing the mountains, jumping the
ilogs, fording the st'^oams, and traveling over the prai-
jries, they arrived at the mission, after an absence of
leixteen days. They were better qualified, from the
jimprovement of their health, to pursue the business of
Hheir calHng.
On the 4th of September following, Mr. Daniel Lee
[and Mr. Shepard started for Vancouver on business,
[and arrived there on the 6th. On the following day, a
[canoe arrived at Vancouver, direct from the mouth of
[the river, bringing the Rev. Daniel Leslie and Rev. H.
>. u
28
HISTORY OF
nil'
K. W. Perkins, who had recently entered the river, in
the ship Sumatra. They, with Mrs. LesUe and three
children, and Miss Margaret Smith, constituted a second
reinforcement to the Oregon mission. They sailed from
Boston on the 20th of January, 1837, and reached the
place of their destination, on the Wallamette river, the
20th of September. Soon after the arrival of Mr. Per-
kins, a union betwixt himself and Miss Elvira Johnson,
who came out in the former reinforcement, which had
been long in contemplation, was consummated. They
were married on the 21st of November, 1837, by Rev.
David Leslie.
On the 25th of December, a general meeting was
called at the mission house, and an Oregon Missionary
Society was formed. A liberal subscription was raised,
to be expended the ensuing year, for the benefit of the
Calapooa Indians.
At the close of this year, the missionaries were all
residing at or near the Wallamette station, and were
laboring in their respective departments, not without
effect, some in sustaining the interests of the mission
school, some in preaching to the Calapooas, and the
white settlements, some in different mechanical branches,
and some in taking care of the farm and the rapidly
increasing stock of cattle and horses. Several members
of the mission school had died during the year, and
mortal diseases unceasingly prevailed among the Indians
throughout the country; yet, in view of all the circum-
stances of the case, the missionaries wer^ encouraged,
and began to take measures for the enlargement of their
operations. . r .
Attending to the interests of the temperance cause,
Mr. J. Lee set out, soon after the 1st of January, on an
exploring tour to the Umpqua country, in company with
Mr. Birnie, one of the traders of the Hudson's Bay
Company. This country lies some two hundred miles
south of Vancouver, and it was reported to contain
several thousand Indians, and as offering a fine field for
missionary operations. The late rains had swollen the
rivers and creeks to such a degree, that it was almost
THE OREGON MISSION.
20
impossible for Mr. Lee to proceed; yet, after severaJ
days of toilsome and dangerous journeying, through the
mud and rain, and fording the rapid streams that crossed
his path, he succeeded in reaching the trading post of
the Hudson's Bay Company, situated on the IJmpqua
river, forty miles above its mouth. The information he
received here was of an encouraging nature, and such
was the difficulty of traveling, that he resolved to
extend his observations no farther. Accordingly he
returned to the Wallamette, where he arrived on the
nth of March, 1838, under the impression that, so soon
as a competency of missionaries could be provided, a
station should be established somewhere in the Umpqua
valley.
About this time, a meeting of all the missionariep,
preachers, and laymen was called, to consult on t'le
subject of establishing a new station; and, after the
merits of several portions of the country were presented,
it was unanimously resolved, that a mission be com-
menced at the Dalls, on the Columbia river, about ninety
miles above Vancouver. Daniel Lee and H. K. W.
Perkins were appointed by the superintendent to the
new mission. They left the Wallamette station, to
I repair to their new field, on the 14th of March, Mr.
Perkins leaving his wife behind, until they could make
arrangements for the convenience of a family.
Before Daniel Lee and Mr. Perkins left the Walla-
mette, a general consultation was held on the subject of
a still greater enlargement of the missionary work, in
Oregon. In the estimation of the meeting, " the harvest
was plenteous and the laborers were few." The Umpqua,
Killamook, Klikitat, Clatsop, Chenook, Nezqualy, and
many other tribes, were destitute of missionaries ; and
in view of these different stations, and the general wants
of the country, they passed a unanimous resolution, ad-
vising the Rev. Jason Lee to make a visit to the United
States for the purpose of representing before the Board
of Managers of the Missionary Society of the M. E.
Church and the public generally, the true condition of
the country, and of the Indians, and soliciting the men
irji
30
HISTORY OF
and means which, in their judgment, were necessary,
for the successful prosecution of the missionary work.
Mr. Lee concurred in the opinions thus expressed by
the members of the mission, and accordingly took leave
of his wife and brethren on the Wallamette, on the 26th
day of March, 1838, and commenced the long and
hazardous journey back across the Rocky mountains.
He was accompanied by P. L. Edwards, of the mission,
a Mr. Ewing, of Missouri, and two Indian boys of the
Chenook tribe, called Wm. Brooks and Thos. Adams.
It was a trying scene when Mr. Lee took his departure '
from his companions in labor and suffering in Oregon,
and the more so Irom the consideration that he was
leaving his beloved wife, to whom he had been married
less than a year ; but in his opinion, it was his duty to
return, and call for fellow-laborers ; and, though worldly
interests and enjoyments demanded his continuance in j
Oregon, yet he practised on the principle, that all such
things should give place to considerations of duty.
It was the first of April before Mr. Lee found himself
prepared to take his departure from Vancouver, towards
the Rocky mountains ; but before we follow him in his
toilsome and perilous journey home, we will contem-
plate some of the circumstances which were transpiring
among those whom he had left in the valley of Oregon.
On the 21st of April Rev. H. K. W. Perkins arrived
at the mission from the Dalls, and brought a favorable
report from the new station. The Indians are known
by the name of the Wasco tribe, and they call the place
where they live, Wascopam. They were found to
number from twelve to fifteen hundred ; were much
pleased with the idea of the establishment of a mission
among them, and were willing to assist in preparing a
place for the accommodation of the missionaries.
On the 26th of April, Mr. and Mrs. Perkins left the
Wallamette in a canoe manned by Indians, to take up
their residencv. at Wascopam. The voyage from the
Wallamette station to the Dalls, was first down the
Wallamette river the distance of seventy miles to its
mouth, and then up the Columbia river the distance of
THK ORKOOIV MISSION.
, mission
linety-five miles. Both rivers are dangerous, in conse-
juence of the numerous rapids, but after several days
)f exposure and fatigue, Mr. and Mrs. Perkins arrived
in safety at the Balls, and by the assistance of Mr. D.
Lee and the Indians, soon established themselves in
comfortable quarters. Mr. D. I-iee had already acquired
knowledge of the Chenook language as spoken in the
ricinity of Vancouver, which the Wascoes generally
inderstood, and could preach immediately to the Indians
without the aid of an interpreter. As the Walla- Walla
tribe was contiguous, and their language understood by
rnany of the Dalls Indians, Mr. Perkins, in addition to
(earning the Chenook, applied himself to the acquire-
lent of the Walla- Walla, and it was not long before he
30uld preach to the Indians in both languages. The
)lan adopted was to circulate among the Indians, and
^reach to them wherever they could be found ; and
from the reception which the missionaries met, and the
ipparent attention given to the gospel, seldom was there
;ver an Indian mission established under more favorable
luspices.
Things moved on quite prosperously in all the depart-
^iients, under the direction of Rev. David Leslie, whom
VIr. Jason Lee had appointed his substitute during his
^ibsence, until the 2Gth day of June, when an event
Iriinspired among the little band on the Wullamette,
which, from the circumstances attending it, threw a
gloom over the hitherto cheering aspects of the mission.
Aiiii Maria, wife of the Rev. Jason Lee, gave birth to a
3on on the 6th of June, which she was doomed to see
ixpire a few days afterwards. At the time of its death
infavorable symptoms appeared in Mrs. Lee, and on
^uesday, the 26th, at six o'clock A. M., she calmly closed
ler eyes in death. The following day the afflicted band
)f missionaries committed to the grave the remains of
[this youthful mother, with her little son clasped in her
irms. When this took place Mr. Lee had been absent
|three months, and was far on his way to the United
States ; but through the kindness of Dr. McLaughlin,
Ian express was sent off immediately, to carry to Mr.
HISTORY OF
fill
s
Lee the sad tidings of the death of his companion. It
was about the first of September when Mr. Lee arrived
at the Methodist mission among the Shawnees, on the
frontiers of Missouri, then under the superintendence
of Rev. Mr. Johnson, and having retired to his room,
late in the evening, he was offering up a tribute of
thanksgiving to Him who had been his preserver while
on his toilsome journey through the hostile tribes of the
mountains, when he heard a rap at his door. Rising, he
admitted the stranger, who placed a package of letters
in his hands, and immediately left the room. He broke
the black seal of one, and the first line conveyed to him
the heart-rending intelligence that his Ann Maria, and
her httle son, were numbered with the dead. Leaving
the afflicted missionary to indulge his grief alone, we ^
return to review other scenes in the valley of the
Columbia.
On the 14th day of August, information was received
in the Wallamette, that Mrs. Perkins, at the Dalls, was
very sick, and stood in great need of medical aid, and^^
other assistance. Accordingly Rev. D. Leslie, Dr. I.
Bailey, and Mrs. White with her little daughter then
eight months old, embarked for the Balls in a canoe
manned by Indians, and six days afterward arrived
there in safety. In the mean time Dr. Whitman, from
the mission in the interior, had visited Mrs. P., and
when the company arrived from the Wallamette, her
health was nearly restored ; consequently, on the morn-
ing of the 22nd, Mr. Leslie and Mrs. White left the
Dalls to return home. They descended the Columbia'
to the cascades the first day, and the next morning 1
made a portage of some three miles, and again all
were seated quietly in the canoe, and the Indians struck |
out into the strong current. Below them were rapids
which, in consequence of the high water, were wo^se
than they anticipated. The river at this place is about
one mile and a half wide, and the canoe was about one-
third of a mile from the nearest sH ;io. They saw the
dashing of the waters before them, but sucn v^as the
strengtn of the current that already bore then- down,
THR OREGON MISSION.
33
that it was impossible to shun the dangerous point.
Soon the canoe was carried among the rolling surges,
filled, capsized, and instantly all were plunged into the
frightful gulph. Mr. Leslie, on rising to the surface of
the river, thought of Mrs. White, and seeing her be-
neath his feet, immediately plunged after her, if possible
to bring her to the surface. He caught hold of her
I clothes, and came up to the surface, struggled for a
I moment to keep her above the water, but was obliged
i to relinquish his hold. He iiow thought that by giving
her up he might possibly save his own life, but it then
I occurred to him that she was entrusted to his care, and
! at once resolving to do his best to save her if he died in
the attempt, plunged after her again, and seizing her
clothes, brought her to the surface. Discovering the
canoe drifting but a short distance from him, bottom up,
he soon regained it, and got hold of the hand of an Indian,
who had risen on the other side of the canoe, and suc-
ceeded in keeping the head of Mrs. White above th'^^
water. By this time they had been carried by the
current partly across the river towards the farther
shore; and fortunately some Indians were on that side
with a canoe, who, on discovering their situation, imme-
diately put off to their relief. These friendly natives
took them into their canoe, and then taking the capsized
canoe in tow, succeeded in gaining the shore. All were
safe but the babe; that was missing, but on righting the
canoe, it was found to have drifted along with it to the
shore, but the vital spark had fled. They were forty
miles distant from a civilized habitation, but the Indians
kindly proffered to take them into their canoe, and
carry them down to Vancouver. Wrapped in their
wet blankets, with the corpse of the little infant lying
in one part of their canoe, they descended to that place,
where they had all the assistance afforded them which
sympathy could devise, or their distressed circumstances
demand. On Friday, the '34th, they left Vancouver, and
on Saturday evening they arrived at the Wallamette,
and the following day deposited the body of the infant
in the mission burying grounds, Mr. Leslie imf)roving
%
#«
mSTOHY OF*
xi
I:
th<3 occasion by an appropriate discourse founded on
Deut. viii. 6: **0, how wonderful in working is our
God, and his ways past finding out. "
Thus the missionaries were constantly exposed. If
they passed from one portion of the country to another,
they were obliged to commit themselves in their frail
craft, to the treacherous element, or travel by land
through hostile tribes of savages.
Mr. Grey, of the mission in the interior, made about
this time a hair breadth escape. While on his way
from the Rocky mountains to Missouri, with one or
two white men and a number of Indians, he was attacked
by a band of Sioux warriors ; his Indians were all
kdled, and himself was twice wounded by musket balls.
While he and the white men with him were making
their escape on horseback, across a river, the Indians
fired at them from the shore, and a ball passed through
the hat of Mr. Grey, cutting the hair from the top of
his head. The white men escaped with one horse
apiece, having been robbed of every thing besides.
About the first of September, Rev. Daniel Lee left
^ the Dalls with a party of Indians, to go to the Walla-
mette station by land across the Cascade mountains, to
ascertain whether it would be practicable to drive back
a small band of cattle for the accommodation of the
mission farm. Supposing that a week would be the
longest time that it would require to perform the jour-
ney, he took provisions to last him only during that
time ; but in consequence of the extreme diflficuTty of
the traveling through the denre thickets, over the high
mountains, up and down the precipices, and fording the
rapid streams, it required twice as long as he antici-
pated. Consequently they consumed all their provisions,
and after going hungry for some length of time, they
were driven to the necessity of killing a poor, jaded
- horse, on the flesh of which they supported themselves
till they arrived at the Clakamas, where they procured
salmon, having consumed the last morsel of their horse
that very day. Not at all discouraged by these diffi-
culties, Mr. Lee resolved to drive the cattle through,
T
TMP. OREGON MISSION.
35
and engaging two men from the settlement to accompany
him, he started with his band on the 26th of September.
After ten days of excessive labor and fatigue, he arrived
safely at Wascopam without loss. This measure for
stocking the little farm they had opened at the Balls,
was adopted by the missionaries for the purpose of
securing, at less expense, the means of subsistence.
In the month of December of this year the Rev. D.
Leslie had the misfortune of losing his house, and most
of his furniture, bedding, clothing, &c., by fire. This
loss was the more severely felt, as it was difficult in that
new country to replace the articles destroyed.
At the close of this year the mission school under the
care of Cyrus Shepard, had increased to nearly forty
scholars, notwithstanding the fearful mortality that
reigned among the children. About one-third of all
that had been received up to this period, had died, and
most of the remainder were in a sickly condition. At
this time Mr. Shepard was obliged to give up the care
of the school, in consequence of personal affliction. A
swelling appeared on one of his knees, which at first
created but little concern, but at length assumed a very
alarming aspect. All the medical and surgical skill of
the country were expended upon him to no purpose ;
the limb was amputated, but it was too late to save life.
Death ensued a short time after the operation. In Mr.
Shepard the mission lost one of its most valuable mem-
bers, a fond wife was bereft of a kind and faithful
companion, and two little girls were rendered fatherless.
Soon after this event, by an arrangement of the mis-
sion, Dr. Elijah White connected with his professional
duties, the care of the mission school ; and the business
of the various departments proceeded as usual through
the winter.
Ai the Dalls a great religious excitement prevailed
among the Indians through the labors of D. Lee and H.
K. W. Perkins. This excitement extended fifty or
seventy-five miles along the Columbia river, chiefly
among the Wasco and Cnenook Indians, of whom more
than one thousand in the course of a few weeks appa-
M
36
HISTORY OF
' ]!
lit* i ■]■
rently embraced the christian reHgion. Such were the
evidences of a genuine change in these Indians, that the
missionaries, after witnessing their praying habits for a
few weeks, baptized them, and received them formally
into the church. They were then formed into classes,
and stated preaching was established in the different
villages where they resided ; and for the time being the
hearts of the missionaries were encouraged, from be-
holding the apparently happy success with which their
labors were crowned.
On the Wallamette also, under the labors of Rev. D.
Leslie, a revival of religion took place among the white
settlers, the Hawaiians, who were in the employment of
the mission, and the Indians connected with the mission
school. A number of each class were converted and
received into the church.
While these things were transpi' 'ng in Oregon, Rev.
J. Lee was zealously employed in accomplishing the
objects of his visit to the United 8tites. He arrived in
the city of New York about the first of November, and
on the 14th he was present at a meeting '^f the Mission-
ary Board, and stated at length the object of his visit.
He urged with much earnestness the imporlaiice of
extending the missionary work in Oregon ; and in view
of this he plead with grent zeal the necessity of sending
to that country a large reinforcement. In his opinion it
was essential, for the prosperity of the mission, to sup-
ply it with the requisite means to furnish itself with
food, buildings, etc. ; and all the necessary implements
for husbandry, and mechanical purposes, should be sent
out by the Board. To meet all these demands would
require a very heavy outlay, and for this and some other
reasons, Mr. Lee met with warm opposition from some
of the members of the Board, who sincerely doubted
the expediency of the measure ; but the superintendent,
who had just come from the field of operation, perse-
veringly and powerfully urged the claims of the mission,
and, sustained by Dr. Fisk, Dr. Bangs and others, finally
succeeded in obtaining from the Board all, yea more
than he demanded ; for in his opinion but two ministers
THE OREGON MISSION.
ft
were required, but in the estimation of a majority of
the Board, if there were to be as many laymen sent out
as Mr. Lee called for, two ministers would not be suffi-
cient. Accordingly, on the 6th of December, 1838, the
Board passed a resolution to send to Oregon five addi-
tional missionaries, one physician, six mechanics, four
farmers, one missionary steward, and four female teach-
ers ; making in all thirty-six adult persons. These
were all selected and appointed within a few months, the
laymen by Dr. Bangs and Mr. Lee, and the missionaries
by the Bishop having charge of the Foreign missions.
The appointments took place from various parts of the
United States, the New England, New York, Troy, Gene-
sec, Illinois, and North Carolina Conferences contributing
more or less, to make the numbers of the reinforcement
complete. During the summer of 1839, Mr. Lee, at-
tended by Wm. Brooks and Thomas Adams, the two
Indian boys whom he brought with him, traveled quite
extensively through the New England and Middle
States, holding missionary meetings in all the important
places, and collecting funds for the Oregon mission.
His success was unparalleled, and an interest was excited
throughout the land amounting to enthusiasm. Crowds
thronged to see and hear the pioneer missionary beyond
the Rocky mountains, and the converted Indians who
accompanied him. Liberal collections were taken up
for the Oregon mission in almost every place, and these,
with the appropriations of the Board for the purchase of
goods, amounted to forty thousand dollars. Furnished
with all kinds of tools for agricultural and mechanical
purposes, and with the necessary articles for the con-
struction of a saw-mill and grist-mill, the great rein-
forcement, with Mr. Lee at their head, at length found
themselves ready for sea.
CHAPTER n.
*H
hi
lii
Journal of a voj.vge (rom New York to Oregon — Time and circumstancei of departure
— First evening — Last look at the Highlands — Initiatory riten — Great diHiress
— Sea-sickneu indescribable — Fourth day — Captain Spaulding — First and
second officers — Passengers in the cabin — Character of the expedition — First
Sabbath at sea — Police regulations — A rich treat — Centenary meeting — Results
— Vessel ships a sea — Wind mcroases — Tremendous gale — North- East trade —
Description of the trades — Whale — Allowance of Water — Porpoise — Vessel —
Amusing surprise — Astronomy — Northern constellations — Magellanic clouds —
Interesting Sabbath — Land, ho ! — Cape Frio — Lighthouse — Splendid scenery
— Arrival at Rio de Janeiro — Historical sketch — Don John — Brazil indepen-
dent—Don Pedro the lirst — Compelled to abdicate — State of the country —
Foreign residents — Religion — City — Buildings — Missionaries — Slavery — Re-
fleotions.
It was in the evening of the 9th day of October, 1839,
that a company of fifty-two persons, sixteen of whom
were children, were collected together on the quarter
deck of the ship Lausanne, which then lay quietly in the
bijght, betwixt the east coast of New Jersey and Sandy
Hook. The preceding day had been one of most thrill-
ing interest to every person composing that excited,
though confiding, group. They had bidden, as they all
then supposed, a last adieu to the land of their nativity;
and all the endearing ties that bound them to home and
friends, had been surrendered. In their hearts burned
an intense desire to become the instruments of intro-
ducing the blessings of religion and civilization, to the
benighted heathen in a foreign land; and for this purpose
they had resolved upon braving the dangers of the deep,
and to endure the diflficulties and deprivations incident to
a residence in a heathen land.
It fell to the lot of the writer to be associated with
this self-denying band, to mingle with them while they
lingered on their native shore, as if loth to make the
sacrifice, to witness them, as, at the given signal, they
VOYAGE TO ORKiiON.
'hastened to commit themselves to that frail bark, which
was destined to become their prison home for so many
tedious days and stormy nights, and, with them, to share
the perils of a voyage of more than twenty-two thousand
miles.
Before we take our de[)arture from Sandy Hook, the
reader will expect to be entertained with some of the
[)rincipal events which took place the day preceding the
evening on which these voluntary exiles were for the
first time assembled on the deck of the Lausanne.
The morning rose beautiful and serene, with not a
cloud to obscure the rising sun, and not a breath of
wind to ruffle the surface of the waters. It was at nine
o'clock of this day, when, by a previous arrangement,
the mission family, attended by their beloved friends of
New York and vicinity, assembled at White Hall Dock,
at the foot of Broadway, where lay the steamboat Her-
cules, which had been engaged to take the passengers to
the Lausanne, which then lay in East River, and then
to tow the ship down through the Narrows, into the
vicinity of Sandy Hook. Two hundred and fifty per-
sons, who had endeared themselves to our hearts by
their kindness and solicitude for our welfare, accom-
panied us on the steamboat, when we embarked, and
among them were the Rev. N. Bangs, D. D., and the
Rev. Dr. Anderson, the former being the secretary of
the Missionary Society of the M. E. C, and the latter,
the secretary of the A. B. C. F. M.
It was precisely fifteen minutes past ten o'clock, when
the signal was given for the boat to leave the wharf^
and, in a few moments, we were along side the Lausanne,
while the multitude that lined the shore, were invoking
many blessings on our enterprise, and by words and
signs were bidding us a last farewell.
The ship was immediately fastened to the boat, and
we were speedily gliding down the beautiful harbor of
New York, first looking back upon the city, whose
hundred gilded steeples were flashing in the sun light,
and then upon immense shipping, crowded for miles up
and down tne East and North rivers; now looking for
I
40
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
lij
a moment upon Castle Garden, Governor's Island, the
North Carolina seventy-four, Brooklyn, the Fort, and
then upon the Jersey shore. Long Island coast, Staten
Island, with all its delightful scenery; and every thing
within the range of our vision was gazed upon with so
much the more interest, as they belonged to our own
native country, and, in all probability, we were to see
them no more.
The time that elapsed from our leaving the wharf, till
the steamboat left us to return, was full of deep and
lively interest. The conversation was fraught with the
most intense feeling and anxiety, which were manifested
ever and anon, by floods of tears, and expressions of the
most ardent wishes for our welfare and success. The
hymns that were sung were remarkably appropriate, and
tended to increase the flame already burning on the altar
of every heart. The religious services, conducted by
Dr. Bangs, Dr. Anderson, and the Rev. Mr. Davis,
were peculiarly solemn and affecting, and closed by the
baptism of the infant son of the Rev. J. P. Richmond,
who was christened " Oregon," the name of the country
to which we were bound. While yet the impressions
which these services had made upon all present were
the most lively and tender, it was announced that the
two vessels must separate. At this time all the missiona-
ries, with their attendants, were on the steamboat. We
had passed the Narrows, and were rapidly approaching
Sandy Hook, when the parting scene commenced. Now
parents and children, brothers and sisters, and friends
and acquaintances, embraced each other for the last
time on earth, and amidst tears, prayers and farewells,
the missionaries passed from the boat to the deck of the
Lausanne. The grapplings were immediately cast off,
and the Hercules sailed gracefully around us, while from
each deck the emblems of purity and affection, snow
white handkerchiefs, we^-e fluttering in the air, until by
a point of Long Island, at the Narrows, the vessel's were
hidden from each other's sight.
Though there was no wmd to favor us, an ebb tide
carried us slowly down to the usual anchorage, inside of
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
41
Jandy Hook, where we were glad to have a little time
[to arrange our cabin and state room affairs, before going
[to sea. •
The evening of the day of embarkation was serene
[and peaceful, and after the stirring events of the day had
been rehearsed by the passengers assembled on the deck
[of our noble vessel, all repaired quietly to their berths,
and, after a good night's rest, arose on the morning of
[the 10th of October, in good health and spirits, for their
I voyage. At half past six o'clock in the morning, we
[weighed anchor, and spreading our canvass to a gentle
(Western breeze, were carried majestically past the Hook,
and were soon tossed upon the waves of the broad
! Atlantic.
The passengers were all immediately called upon to
'perform the initiatory rites to which all have to submit,
who, for the first time, invade the dommions of Neptune.
This, however, did not prevent iiiany from taking a last
look of the Highlands of Never Sink, which disappeared
in the smoky distance at three o'clock in the afternoon
of the first day. In passing through this terrible ordeal
of initiation, inere are occasional intervals of relaxation,
and on Sunday, the 13th, the "North-Easter," which had
been blowing from the first day out, lulled ; a calm suc-
ceeded, and operated like a charm upon the sick inmates
of the Lausanne ; for all so far recovered as to be able
to present themselves on the quarter deck.
As we are now on the fourth day out fairly under
way, having lost sight of land, and experienced one
severe storm, and, for the first time since leaving Sandy
Hook, collected on the deck of the vessel, the reader
will expect a more particular account of the company
to which, collectively, he has already been introduced.
Embracing the ofllicers and crew, there were seventy-
five souls on board, fifty-three of whom were passengers.
The ship was commanded by Capt. Spaulding, who had
been employed by the owners, Farnham & Fry, in
view of his qualifications, to take charge of such an
expedition, for so long a voyage. Twenty years' expe-
rience as master of a vessel, had established the captain's
42
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
reputation as a skillful navigator, which, in connexion
writh his general kindness to the passengers, and his ^
efforts to make them as comfortable as their crowded
condition on the vessel would admit, proves that the
selection, if not the best that could have been made,
was as good as could have been reasonably expected.
The first and s'cond mates, though wanting in strict
morality, were excellent seamen, and well understood
the business of navigation. The second mate, Mr.
Coffin, had performed eight voyages around Cape Horn.
The crew were composed of English, Americans,
Irish, Germans, Danes, and Swedes. This variety was
selected, as the captain said, because among such a
crew it is less difficult to preserve order, than it is with
a crew exclusively Americans.
Finding ourselves thus officered and manned, and
witnessing the management of our vessel through one
protracted storm, we concluded that, extraordinaries
excepted, we should be conducted in safety to the land
of our destination.
The passengers in the cabin, embracing children,
numbered fifty-four. Of these eight were ministers of
the gospel ; seven of whom, namely, Jason Lee, J. H.
Frost, A. F. Waller, W. W. Kone, G. Hines, L. H.
Judson, J. L. Parrish and J. P. Richmond, were con-
nected with the missionary expedition to Oregon ; and
one, the Rev. Sheldon Dibble, was a Presbyterian mis-
sionary, on his way to his field of labor, in the Sandwich
Islands. We had one physician. Dr. J. L. Babcock,
who had been appointed to take care of the health of
the members of the mission, and all the remainder had
been connected with the enterprise, by the appointment
of the Missionary Board of the M. E. Church, as farm-
ers, mechanics, and teachers, to labor for the promotion
of religion and civilization, in the territory of Oregon.
With the secular department of the work, two of the
above named preachers, L. H. Judson, and J. L. Parrish,
were also connected. »,.
- The persons composing this, the largest expedition of
the kind that had ever sailed from our shores, presented
T
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
a great variety in consequence of the extensive range
of country from which they h' d been collected. Coming
together from Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York,
Maryland, North Carolina, Illinois, and Missouri, and
bringing with them many of the different peculiarities
of these several portions of our Union, it would not be
surprising, confined as they were for so long a time,
under circumstances pecuHarly calculated to "try men's
souls" if, from time to time, they came so far in collision
with each other's views and prejudices, as to produce a
momentary rupture. One striking trait, however, as
difficult to exhibit as it is excellent in its influence, ap-
peared in the conduct of the company huddled together
in the cabin of the Lausanne. It was this ; a disposition
to sacrifice self, for the promotion of the common weal.
This excellency of character was fullv manifested on
the part of the ladies, of whom we had nineteen on
board. r^-^'-^^'' : >■, ; \ - . • ■. ■•■. r ,
Dismissing this general description of the company, I
proceed to give a few of the incidents of our voyage,
first, assuring the reader that long and tedious descrip-
tions of the management and evolutions of the vessel,
the peculiar technicalities of navigation, the clewing,
handling, or reefing of sails, and the various phenomena
which belc -ig exclusively to the avocation of those who
*' go down to the sea in ships and do business on the
great waters," will be studiously avoided. The seaman's
vocabulary constitutes an unintelligible jargon to all
landsmen ; and as this Journal is designed for the benefit
of such as are not accustomed to the seas, this vocabu-
lary will not be resorted to, except where it may be
thought necessary to express the subject in a clearer
light, or to render a description more full and explicit.
Waiving all such explanations hereafter, and continuing
directly on our voyage, in the regular course of events,
I come now to give a description of our first Sabbath at
sea.
Though a storm had been raging for days, yet the
Sabbath brought with it almost a perfect calm. In con-
sequence of the sickness of the passengers no arrange-
44
VOYA<JE TO OREGON.
ments nad been made with regard to the services of the
day ; but the weather being so fine, it was thought
practicable, notwithstanding all had not recovered from
their sickness, to have public worship. The Rev. Mr.
Dibble having performed a number of voyages, was
sufficiently inured to the motion of the vessel, to be able
to preach ; and being requested to officiate, the passen-
gers and some of the crew collected on the quarter
deck, and hstened to a most interesting, appropriate, and
profitable discourse, from the words of the Apostle Paul:
" For scarcely for a righteous man, will one die, yet
peradventure for a good man, some would even dare to
die. "
To many, it was a season " of refreshing from the
presence of the Lord ; " and we found our vessel to be
none other than the "house of God, and the gate of
Heaven. " In the evening, all that were able, came
together on deck, for the purpose of holding a prayer
meeting, and while the meeting was in progress, a fine
breeze sprung up, and as the wind whistled through our
rigging, the voice of prayer was £iscending to the throne
of God. The meeting closed, and all quietly retired to
their berths, committing themselves to the care of Him
who rides upon the wings of the wind, and who holds
the mighty ocean in the hollow of his hand. Thus closed
our first Sabbath at sea, leaving the delightful impression
that we were not to be deprived of the privileges of the
sanctuary, though far away amidst the solitude of the
ocean.
For the purpose of promoting harmony on board, in
the evening of the 16th, rules were adopted, by a vote
of the passengers, to regulate the police of the cabin
during the voyage. These rules fixed the time of
rising, the time for morning and evening prayers, the
order to be observed at the table, and the course of
conduct to be pursued with reference to the children.
We found it to be as necessary to have law in our little
floating world, as it is on land; and the laws thus volun-
tarily adopted, proved salutary in their influence,
throughout the whole voyage. ^ = ,< .
prepai
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
46
This arrangement was carried out, during the seven
montlis of our confinement on the Lausanne, without
deviation, except when the motion of the vessel was so
violent as to render it altogether impracticable. Persons
were also appointed to make arrangements for holding
a centenary meeting, on board the vessel, and for pre-
paring a journal of our voyage, to be sent back to New
York, for publication in the C. A. Journal.
On the 18vh, it was determined that our meeting
preparatory to the centenary, should be held on Mon-
day, the 21st instant, at 10 o'clock, a. m., at which
addresses should be delivered, and subscriptions solicited.
It was also resolved, that, in connection with our breth-
ren throughout the world, we would meet together on
the 25th inst., and celebrate the day in the following
manner:
Prayer meeting in the morning, preaching at 3 o'clock,
and love-feast in the evening.
On Monday, the 21st, a strong head wind prevailed,
and the violence of the motion of the ship was so great,
that the preparatory meeting was deferred until the 23d.
Two addresses were delivered on the occasion, after
which a subscription was taken, which, by a previous
resolution, was to be appropriated for the moral eleva-
tion of the Indians, west of the Rocky mountains. And,
although we were floating upon the bosom of the deep,
nearly a thousand miles from land, being in latitude 35
degrees, 44 minutes, north, and longitude 55 degrees,
15 minutes, west, yet it was a season of peculiar interest;
and the sense of obligation which all felt, in view of the
benefits conferred upon them and the world, through
the influence of Wesley an Methodism, was exhibited by
placing on the altar, by the missionaries, a thank oflfer-
ing, amounting to six hundred and fifty dollars, twenty
of which were contributed by the Presbyterian mission-
ary, the Rev. S. Dibble.
On the 25th, the centenary of Methodism was cele-
brated on the Lausanne, according to previous arrange-
ment; and, having been selected for the purpose, the
r :;
46
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
ifl
nilf
writer endeavored to improve the occasion by a dis-
course, from Zachariah, xiv. 6, 7, 8.
While the interesting services of this day and evening
were in progress, our gallant ship, by a strong breeze,
was wafted over the rolling deep at the rate of nine
knots an hour.
Thursday, 31st. All the passengers begin to prefer
the deck to the cabin or state-rooms, and whether sick
or well, storm or calm, they will make their appearance
on deck several times a day, if they can possibly get oui
themselves, or get any one to asrsist them out. This
preference arises first, from the heat of the cabin, which
as we proceed south, is getting quite unendurable ;
second, from the nauseous scent, which, at any time,
would be disagreeable to the olfactories, and, to sea-sick
stomachs, is truly repulsive; third, from the crowded
condition of the cabin, there being a large number of
chests, trunks, boxes, baskets and other things, scattered
along the gangway and under the tables, so that it is
almost impossible to find a place to set one's foot. This
day an incident transpired, as disagreeable to some as it
was a fruitful source of laughter to others. The wind
had been blowing with increasing violence for a number
of hours, and the sea had become unusually rough. By
the mismanagement of the man at the wheel, the vessel
shipped a tremendous sea, which came rushing over on
the deck, and extended from the bow to the stern, and
rose so high as to wet the lower part of the top sails.
Mrs. Lee, Mrs. Hines and Mrs. Frost were on deck at
the time, the two former too sick to hold up their heads,
and the latter waiting upon them to some gruel. They
were bolstered up in their chairs, which leaned back
against the scuttle, with their faces to the windward,
and received the whole weight Oi* the huge sea, as it
poured its overwhelming flood on the ship's deck. For
a moment they scarcely knew whether they were in the
ocean, or on the vessel, but when the flood passed over,
they found cause for thankfulness in the fact, that, with
their thorough drenching, they had received no serious
injury.
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
41
November 1st. The wind has gradually increased in
strenffth since yesterday, and consequently the sea runs
rery nigh. Though I find myself so sick, in consequence
)f the violent motion of the vessel, that I loathe almost
jvery thing my eyes behold, yet occasionally I draw
toyself up to the windward by ropes, and, looking over
the bulwarks, contemplate the grandeur and sublimity
)f the mighty ocean, as she proudly and majestically
Iroils onward her mountain waves. During the night,
jwe were called to encounter a severe gale. For forty-
jeight hours the wind had been blowing with increasing
[strength, attended occasionally with rain. But early in
the evening the sky became perfectly clear, and the
stars glistened with unusual brightness, which gave
indication that a still more violent blast awaited us.
[About midnight, at the loud and well understood call of
the second officer, all hands were immediately on deck;
for in the midst of a storm, every sailor is converted
into a fearless hero. The listening sailors waited for a
moment the word of command, when " Clew your main
sheet; clew up your main top sail; handle your main top
gallant sail; clew your fore tack; close reef your fore
top sail;" were heard above the roar of the "winds and
waves, and met with a prompt obedience. This being
done, the captain was called, for the time was considered
somewhat perilous. When the captain appeared on
deck, the officer said to him, " There is a gale coming,
sir, still more heavy than any thing we have had. Shall
I not handle the foretop gallant sail, and lay to the gale]"
The captain hesitated a moment, when the mate cried
out, " The fore top gallant sail must be taken in, sir, or
lost in a minute." "Close reef your fore top gallant
sail," was heard above the roar of the angry elements,
and was obeyed with amazing promptness by the faith-
ful sailors, who had been as quick as thought to every
word of command. After the sails had all been taken
in, except enough to keep the vessel steady, the man at
the wheel was charged to " mind his weather helm."
At this moment the whole fury of the blast was upon
us. The sea was lashed to foam, and the wind, with
46
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
iiii(l
i
li
fitful gusts, swept angrily across our deck, and howled
dismally through our rigging. At every blast of the
tempest, the ship creaked in qvery joint, and, careening
to the water's edge, swung her towering masts majesti-
cally in the heavens. The huge waves came rolling
over our weather bow, and occasionally washed the
entire length of our vessel. But the time had now
arrived to lay to the wind. " Hard up I" thundered the
'watchful captain; "Hard up, sir!" replied the faithful
helmsman. The gallant ship turned her face to the
wind, and defied the fury of the storm. She lay upon
the waves, apparently as light as a feather, and increased
the confidence of all in her capacity, by the triumphant
manner in which she rode out the gale. At 3 o'clock
in the morning the wind slackened, and changing sud-
denly into the west, brought us again on our course,
and at four we were gliding over the billows, at the rate
of nine knots an hour.
On the morning of the 8th, we began to be affected
by the north-east trade wind. There are two of these
winds, one north and the other south of the equator,
extending quite around the globe, with the exception of
those intermediate spaces where they are broken off by
land breezes. The trade north of the equator, called
the north-east trade, commences between the 2i th and
30th degrees of north latitude, and continues to the 8th,
the distance of twenty degrees. In sailing to the south,
you begin to feel the south-east trade between the 3(1
and 4th degrees of north latitude. The intermediate
space, consisting of a strip about five degrees, or three
hundred miles wide, is the region celebrated on account
of its variable winds, sudden squalls, and extended cakns.
Here vessels are sometimes detained, by dead calms,
beneath the vertical rays of a burning sun, for forty or
fifty days; and captains consider that a voyage across
this region is unusually prosperous, if it is performed in
one week. ? -. ... $.. .,
The south-east trade continues from the 3d degree
north, to the 80th degree south of the equator; its cur-
rent varying from the east to south by east. , j; }
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
These winds are probably produced by two causes in
connection. First, the constant tendency of the air to
Restore its equilibrium. The cold air of the poles rushes
|n towards the equator, and sets the heated and rarified
lir around the equator in motion, and the heat of the
}un, upon the elastic air, has a tendency to increase the
lotion, by expanding the air; and thus a contention is
>roduced betwixt the cold and heated air, the former
exerting itself to supplant the latter, and vice versa.
Second, the diurnal revolution of the earth on its axis.
[f it were not for these daily revolutions, these winds
.'ould blow direct from the poles to the equator, whereas
their current now runs diagonally with that line. There
is also a current in the ocean, which runs with the trade
ands, and is evidently produced by the revolutions of
the earth. These two causes combine to produce that
3ffularity in these winds, without which it would be
limcult, if not impossible, to navigate the Atlantic and
[Pacific oceans. These important currents are called
trade winds, because they are more favorable to com-
jmerce, or trade, than all other winds that blow.
In the afternoon of this day, the passengers were
[thrown into an excitement by the announcement, by the
captain, of **a whale along side." No one had ever
seen one of these monsters of the deep, and of course
there was a general rush to the bulwarks, to get a
[glimpse of him before he should disappear.
Even those who were still confined to their berths,
I by sea sickness, must be assisted on deck, to have a view
of the whale. There were two of them, and they
played around the vessel for an hour, and occasionally
showed the entire length of their huge forms, above the
surface of the water, thus giving all an opportunity to
satisfy their curiosity concerning the largest of the
inhabitants of the . ean. On the firing of a gun, they
instantly disappeared.
On the 19th, we were in the latitude of Monrovia, on
the western coast of Africa, and within three hundred and
fifty miles of that place. This is our nearest approach to
r. {^^
60
VOYAUU TU OREUON.
;:j?- . - *
the continent of Africa. In these lutitudeH vessels usually
cxpericncje heuvy fullM of niin, so as to he ahle to reple-
nish all their empty wjit(!r casks; however, we realized
hut little, and most of our exhausted (^asks remained
dry. This suhjected us to the in(;onvenience of hein^
thrown upon an allowance of water, which was a pre-
caution the (*a))tain said was necessary to enter into, in
order U> make our water hold out, till we should rea<'li
the p.)rt of Rio de Janeiro. We W(^re here relieved
from the monotony of our voyage, which hegan to he
quite disagreeahlt!, by u number of incidents always
interesting at sea, ancf always described in the journals
of voyagers. The first was the ajjpcarance ol an im-
mense school of porpoises. There must have been tens
of thousands of them, as they appeared to cover hundreds
of acres. They continued around the vessel for some
time, lea[)ing and bounding high out of the water in
every direction. They are a warm blooded fish, and
leap out of the water for the purpose of breathing.
They are from three to five feet long, and weigh from
one hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds. The
second was, the l)eing spoken by two French sloops of
war. We had seen several vessels since leaving port,
but none had approached near us, until the 21st of
November, when, early in the morning, a French sloop
of war, of twenty-four guns, came dashing on our stern,
as if she intended to run us down. The stars and stripes
were immediately flying from our spanker yard, to show
Monsieur who we wtire. In response, the French colors
were soon seen, streaming in the wind. After manccu-
vering a little on our stern, she finally passed us to the
windward within a f(jw rods, presenting a remarkably
fine appearance. Tlie other vessel referred to was a
sloop of eighteen guns, and spoke us on the 23d. She
first appeared far to the windward, but bore down
towards us, and fell on our stern about three miles otK
After chasing us for several hours she finally succeeded
in coming along side to the leeward, and, after we
examined each other for a half hour or more, and passed
VOYAUE TO OHEMON.
51
ihrou^Mi with the UHual Hulutatioim of Hiiowin^ tlio r.olnrn
ot' «mr rrH|)(3<;tiv<i mitioiiH, Hho bjuio uh ^ood byo, but
uilowfii UH to ko(!|) III Hi^ht of h(!r during th() day.
On the morning of the 2&th, boforu a Htrong soutli-
ciwt tra<l(;, at tho rate of suvrn knotH, wo paHMod I'rouj
the northern to the Houthern h(;niiH[)here. The following
evening waH reniurkably dark, thougli eahn and Herene,
and we wt^n; ghding aitnoHt imperceptibly along at the
rule of three knotH, before a gentle breeze, when, all at
once, there app(;ared within ten feet of the vesHel,
tioating on the water, a large lire, which flamed up
several feet high, and apneared about three feet in
diameter. The Rev. W. W. Kone firnt discovered this
HMnarkable phenomenon, and with his exclamations of
wonder at what it miglit be, a great excitement was
produced among the passengers, wliile thcj captain
appeared to be more at a loss to know what this strange
fire could mean, than any other. All were gazing at it
with intense interest, and many began to philosophize
wncorning it. Some said it was a remarkable collection
of phosphorus; some called it electricity, and some one
thing and some another. At length it began to be
wliispered that there was some trick about it, and finally,
all the theories that had been advanced concerning it,
laughable from their absurdities, fell to the ground, on
the discovery of the fact that it was nothing but a burn-
ing tar barrel, which the sailors had got permission from
the captain to lower from the bow of tlie vessel, for the
purpose of exciting the inquisitive curiosity of the pas-
sengers. The incident, though trilling in its nature, for
the time being was a source of considerable merriment.
It was not a little interesting to us, as we proceeded
southward, to witness new and magnificent constellations
of stars rising to our view, and those near the north
pole, with wiiich we had been famdiar from our child-
hood, sinking from our sight, below the northern horizon.
The north polar star, which to us had ever been ele-
vated more than forty degrees in the heavens, was lost
behind the mountains of ice which rise in majestic gran-
deur amid the Arctic ocean ; while the Great and Little
!*ll?
, t
58
VOYAOB TO ORROOff.
Bear, the Great and Little Dog, Andromeda, Cassiopea,
Taurus and Orion, were fast receding northward, to rise
again to our view when we should approximate the lati-
tudes over which we had sailed. But while we were
leaving these old acquaintances of the hypoborean re-
gions, new and no less interesting ones presented them-
selves in the southern sky, to cheer us on our lonely
voyage •'round the stormy cape.
Among the celestial scenery of the south, there is
nothing more interesting than those two remarkable
spots in the heavens, which are known by the name of
the Magellan clouds. These phenomena do not present
the appearance of clouds, as their name would indicate,
but they are quite luminous, resembling in their aspect
the brightest spots in the Milky Way, and supposed, like
the latter, to consist of innumerable stars, not discernible
to the naked eye. They are situated near the south
pole of the heavens, and are about fifteen degrees apart,
the smaller being nearest the pole. In the diurnal revo-
lutions of the earth, they each describe a circle round
the pole, the diameter of the smaller circle being about
fifteen, and that of the latter about twenty-five degrees.
As there is no star at the south pole answering, to the
southern hemisphere, the purpose that the north star
serves to the northern, these clouds serve in navigating
the South Pacific ocean. It is said by some that there
ia another cloud of a dark appearance not far distant
from these, but of this we could see nothing. It is quite
certain that no such dark cloud exists. These clouds
derived their name from the distinguished navigator,
who also gave his name to the straits leading from the
Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, and separating Terra del
Fuego from Patigonia. v«
December 1st was the last Sabbath we spent before
making the coast of Brazil, and as it was a fair sample
of the manner in which all our pleasant Sabbaths were
employed, the recder will perhaps be gratified vnth a
short description of it. The day was inexpressibly fine ;
a bland and reviving breeze tempered the rays of the
vertical fiun, and bore us almost imperceptibly over the
never man
VOYAOU TO OREGON.
gentle undulation of the deep. At the usual hour of
worship in the temple of Jehovah on land, a bell was
rung so as to be heard from the after cabin to the fore-
castle, to call the people together ; and immediately
sixtv-five persons were comfortably seated on the quar-
ter deck, beneath an awning, spread to intercept the too
intense rays of the tropical sun. The minister for the
occasion gave out the sublime hymn commencing *
•• Before Jehovah's awful throne, '*
which was sung "with the spirit and with the under-
standing also," to the immortal tune of "Old Hundred."
The voice of solemn prayer succeeded, and was followed
l)y an appropriate sermon from the words, "They all
with one consent began to make excuse. " At the close
of the exercises all appeared to feel that, from whatever
else they would be excused, they would not be excused
from receiving the forgiveness of sins, the consolations
of religion, hope in death, and everlasting life. In the
atternoon all assembled again, and listened to an interest-
ing discourse from the text, " And they remembered his
words. " The excellency and wisdom of the words of
Christ, were dilated upon in such a manner as to impress
all with the truth of the remark, that "He spake as
never man sp£ike. " The closing scene of this day's
exercise was one of true subljniity. Surrounded with
the darkness and stillness of evening, all again bowed
dowo on the deck of the Lausanne, and offered up their
fervent aspirations to the throne of God. The wind
began to whistle through our canvass as we retired to
our berths, feeling truly grateful for the privileges of
the holy Sabbath, though enjoyed amidst the boundless
wastes of the Atlantic.
On leaving New York our course was nearly south-
east until we approached the continent of Africa ; then
making an angle, we sailed nearly south-west until we
approached the coast of Brazil ; and it may be a matter
of surprise to many, that we should sail so much out of
our way, to get to the city of Rio Janeiro. The object
of making so much easting was, first, to secure the
« ''1
1
> <
54
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
benefits of the north-east and south-east trade winds, and
second, to avoid being driven by these winds and the
currents of the ocean, to the northward of Cape St
Rogue, the easternmost point of land on the coast of
Brazil. All vessels bound to the south of Cape St.
Rogue pursue nearly the same track, and cross the
equator between the twentieth and twenty-third degrees
of west longitude. / '^^ '^^^ '^ wi^n?-
Early in the morning of the 8th of December, the
cry of "Land, ho!" brought most of the passengers
immediately to the deck. The captain had remarked
the evening previous, that we should see land in the
morning to the north-east of us, if the wind continued
in the same direction, which proved to be the case ; and
the high bluffs of Cape Frio (cold cape) appeared in full
view about twenty-five miles off. The sight of land
was hailed with the utmost joy, it having been fifty-nine
days since the high lands of Wever Sink, the last land
we saw, were hidden in the dim distance. As we pro-
ceeded down towards Rio, the coast . presented a grand
and picturesque appearance, not vastly dissimilar to that
of the mountains, as seen from the deck of a steamboat
on the Hudson river. The day was calm, and the sky
overcast with clouds, and many of the mountains reared
their lofty heads above the strata of the lower clouds,
so that these were seen lowering around the mountains,
and presenting the appearance of vast quantities of
smoke, rolling down their apparently smooth and conical
sides. Our eyes being once more privileged with be-
holding land, though at a distance, our attention was
again called to the solemnities of the holy Sabbath.
Monday, the 9th, we were hovering around the en-
trance of the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. A slight breeze
from land prevented us from proceeding directly into
the harbor, and this gave us an opportunity to contem-
Klate the scenery of the shore. The preceding night
ad been one of unusual darkness, occasioned oy the
dense fog by which we were enveloped ; but this ren-
dered the appearance of the revolving light, which came
peering through the midnight gloom from the distant
isle, still mors delightful.
'«■■ \.
VOYAGi: TO OREGON.
55
As the nun approached the meridian, and dissipated
the mists of the morning, the land zephyr died away,
and a gentle breeze from the ocean filled our already
expanded sails, wafting us directly towards the harbor.
As we approached the shore, the scenery presented to
our view was beautifully grand, beyond description.
On our left, the *' Sugar Loaf" mountain reared its lofty
summit, to the height of eight hundred feet, sloping on
the side towards the water, but perpendicular on the
opposite; also, the island of serpentine rock, elevated
several hundred feet, with the light-house resting on its
top, and " Redonda," perfectly conical in its formation,
being about fifty rods in diameter at its base, and rising
more than five hundred feet; while, about ten miles in
the distance, appeared a majestic mountain, whose cloud-
capped summit towered to the height of three thousand
feet above the ocean, and seeming to look down con-
temptuously on every thing beneath. It is called the
" Parrot's feeak." The main shore is v>ery broken, some
parts of it being elevated far above the rest, while the
huge "crags" on their rugged summits, appear to frown
down upon the agitated waters, which dash harmlessly
against their base. On our right, the mountainous coast
could be distinctly seen the distance of sixty miles, to
(Jape Frio; while on our left, to a distance, if possible,
still greater, pile after pile of huge, massy rocks were
thrown together in the wildest confusion, rising thou-
sands of feet above the level of the ocean, and, as they
receded from us, appearing less and less, until, in the
dim distance, they were lost from our sight. These,
together with a view of the imperial city of Rio de
Janeiro, lying quietly in the bosom of the bay of St.
Janarius, conspired to give variety to the splendid pano-
rama, by which, on entering the harbor, we found our-
selves encircled. The grandeur and sublimity of the
scene were worthy of the pencil of the most skillful
artist, and truly enchanting to the lover of nature; and
it was with the most thrilling emotions of delight, that
we gazed upon the romantic and picturesque scenery^
before us. As we drew near the snore, the mountains
50
VOYAOB TO OREGON.
lining the entrance of the harbor, lost the sterile ap-
pearance which they had presented from a distance, be-
ing changed, by the beautiful verdure which covered
their summits, into a delightful green. The valleys
between the mountains were clothed with luxuriant
evergreens, and here and there a round elevation pre-
sented, in beautiful variety, a few cocoa-nut trees,
which were scattered sparsely over them. Soon our
attention was invited to animate nature. At the mouth
of the channel, leading into the bay and harbor of Rio,
is a very strong fortification, and the heads of armed
men could be seen above the ramparts as we passed.
We were hailed from this fort, as also from an armed
vessel Iving at a distance. From another fort, still
nearer the city, a man bawled out, through a speaking-
trumpet, requiring us to proceed no farther, but to bear
off to the right and come to anchor, which we immedi-
ately obeyed, although it subjected us to the inconve-
nience of rowing one mile and a half, to gain the shore.
It was two o'clock, p. m., of the 9th, when we came
to anchor, and the rest of the day was spent in receiving
those visits from government officers, which are required
previous to their admitting any on shore. The gentlemen
who visited us were intelligent and affable, and, coming
from a Roman Catholic government, were quite asto-
nished to see so many priests on board, especially when
they were informed that they all had wiv?s.
On the morning of the 10th, the captain, with six of
the passengers, went ashore. We were, however, re-
quired by the government, to pass along side an armed
schooner, which was stationed in the harbor, for the
purpose of giving them an opportunity to examine our
baggage, to see that we had no contraband goods in our
possession, which very unceremonious process, we were
informed, we must submit to, as well when we returned
from the shore to the vessel, as in passing from the
vessel to the shore. As we were to lie here a number
of days, we looked upon this custom-house arrangement
as imposing upon us a useless and disagreeable task,
fmmeaiately on landing, we proceeded to the mercantile
1
I
VOYAGE TO OREGON. , H
- . t
establishment of Gardiner & Campbell^ who are English
residents. Gardiner had formerly resided some time in
the city of New York. Here we were soon met by the
Rev. Justin Spaulding, who had resided in the place for
throe years, as a missionary of the Methodist E. Church,
and from whom, in connection with his family, and the
family of his colleague, the Rev. D. P. Kidder, (who
himself was absent on an exploring tour to the north,)
we met with a most cordial reception. We found them
commodiously situated, in a large building, well furnished
for their accommodation, and located in a retired part of
the city of Rio de Janeiro, about one mile from the place
of landing. Mr. Spaulding assured us that, though he
could not furnish the whole company with beds, yet his
rooms were open, and he should expect us to occupy
them freely, by night and by day, whife we remained in
the place. And, indeed, all that christian love and
kindness could do, these missionaries cheerfully per-
formed, to render our stay with them happy and inte-
resting.
The splendid city of Rio de Janeiro, which is the
capital of the Empire of Brazil, presents to voyagers to
this portion of the world, an object of considerable
interest. A better location for a commercial city can
scarcely be imagined. It is surrounded by a country of
vast extent, of inexhaustible fertility, and equal in re-
sources to the most enlarged expectations, ^♦s harbor is
one of the best in the world. The entrai.^e to it is
narrow, though sufficiently deep to admit vessels of the
largest size to pass with perfect safety, and then ex-
tending out into a bay thirty miles long, and fifteen
broad, and being favored almost every day with both
land and sea breezes, which enable vessels readily to
pass in and out, being of suitable depth for all sizes of
vessels, and surrounded by mighty mountain barriers,
which break off the winds on every side. It is unques-
tionably one of the safest and most commodious anchor-
aces on the whole face of the globe. With these natural
aavantages to favor her, we might expect that Rio woul^
have experienced a rapid growth from the time when
8
i!
i ;il I
f
i V
1
f
58
^ VOVAGE TO OREGON.
Portugal planted her first colony on the borders of that
lovely bay; but a mistaken policy, developed in many
periods of her history, has tended greatly to retard her
progress; and, consequently, she continued compara-
tively small until Don John, the- Portuguese king, left
the mother country, and removed to his Brazilian terri-
tories, and built his palace within the precincts of this
city. This circumstance transpired in 1803.
At the present time the city is one of considerable
extent. It contains one hundred and fifty thousand inha-
bitants, of various nations, and of every shade of com-
plexion. Here are some native Portuguese, more native
Brazilians, a few French, Africans, Jews, Americans,
and about one thousand English.
The city lies in the form of a parallelogram, and some
of the streets present a splendid appearance. The houses
are principally built with stone, and are covered with
tiles. Some of the buildings, and especially the royal
palace, and some of the churches and convents, are
splendid specimens of architecture ; but a great share of
the city, however, appears like a vast assemblage of
state prisons. Rio de Janeiro suffers much in point of
beauty and cleanliness, when compared with the cities
of many of our Eastern and Middle States. It presents
an antiquated and sombre aspect, without that appear-
ance of life and animation, which characterize the cities
of the Anglo-Americans.
The religious state of the city is truly deplorable.
The Roman Catholic religion here exists in all its name-
less mummeries and superstitions, " Strictly speaking,"
said a Protestant missionary who has resided three years
in the city, "there is no religion here." This same
missionary informed me that of all the people with
whom he had become acquainted by three year's resi-
dence among them, there were but two that he had the
least reason to suppose were christians, in the proper
sense of the word.
But, if true religion consists in the erection of splendid
cathedrals, and in decorating them with solden images,
and the lambent fiame of huge wax candles constantly
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
60
burning, and with hangings of the finest embroidery; or,
if it consists in convents, filled with priests and nuns,
with all their attendant ceremonies and image worship,
then Rio de Janeiro contains more than any other city I
have ever visited. But, if it consists in a consecration
of soul and body to God, and a life corresponding with
the gospel of Christ, then, of the tens of thousands of
Rio, who bear the christian name, how few are pious!
how few will be saved ! ! But signs of a better state of
things begin to show themselves in this bigoted city.
The English residents have a minister among them, and
have recently built a church, in which they statedly
worship after the Protestant form. The Rev. J. Spaul-
ding and the Rev. D. P. Kidder, of whom mention has
been made, were laboring with energy and zeal, in the
cause of their Divine Master, both in preaching the
gospel and in the circulation of bibles and tracts. These
missionaries were frequently encouraged in their labors
of love, by those evidences which appeared from time
to time, that their efforts were not altogether in vain.
An hidividual, through the influence of a tract, became
dissatisfied with Popery, and came to Mr. Spaulding and
earnestly enquired what he must do to be saved. Sub-
sequently he partook of the sacrament of the Lord's
supper with Protestants; but the Romish priests, having
ascertained this, determined, at all hazards, to put a stop
to his attending Protestant meetings. Accordingly, one
morning, when this gentleman arose, he discovered a
paper which had been pushed into his room under the
door, during the night. He took up the paper and read
in substance as follows: " Unless you desist from attend-
ing these Protestant associations, you may expect to find
yourself stabbed." This circumstance drove him almost
to despair, but subsequently he indulged a hope in
Christ, and discarded the Church of Rome ; but, from
fear of falling a victim to the madness of bigoted and
persecuting priests, his intercourse with the Protestants
was carried on with the utmost secrecy. Thus the true
leaven was working in spite of all the efforts made by
f
00
VOYAGE TO OBEOON.
~M
the Papists to suppress it, and it was hoped that it would
continue to work until the whole lump was leavened.
The slav^ery of Rio is one of the most prominent
characteristics which present themselves to the traveler,
on arriving at this place. And, to those of us who had
never seen slavery in its practical effects, it was "enough
to make one's heart bleed," to witn' s? these ill-fated sons
of Ham driven about bv their cruci task-masters, and
compelled to perform their tasks in a state of almost
perfect nudity, exposed to the burning rays of a vertical
sun. As cruel, however, as Brazilian slavery appears to
be at first sight, there are some mitigating circumstances
connected with it, when compared with the slavery of
some other countries. Unlike the laws in the Southern
States of our Republic, which give the master the same
control over his slaves that he has over any kind of pro-
perty, those of Brazil guarantee to the slave a number
of important privileges. First, the slave is required to
labor for his master from morning until two o'clock,
which is the business portion of the day ; and the re-
mainder of the day he has to himself. Second, the slave
is entitled, by law, to two days in each week to employ
as he sees fit. These two provisions give the slave
nearly one lialf of the time, and the property he accumu-
lates, when thus at liberty, belongs to himself. He is
compelled, however, to procure his own food, without
expense to his master. If, by industry or good fortune,
he succeeds in obtaining his freedom, which is not an
unfrequent occurrence, he is immediately entitled to all
the privileges of a freeman, and his offspring are not
liable to be enslaved. But, notwithstanding these exte-
nuating circumstances connected with Brazilian slavery,
it is a system of cruelty and oppression. The naked
appearance of the slaves, the ponderous burdens they are
compelled to bear, their frequent flagellations, and when
worn out with fatigue, their lying around the streets
and under the walls of buildings like cattle, and at other
times like horses dragging around their drays, unmerci-
fully loaded, all had a tendency deeply to excite our
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
61
r,
sympathies for suffering humanity, and to increase our
abhorrence for this system of cruelty and blood. It was
cheering, while beholding some of the worst evils of the
system, to indulge the reflection that the time will come
when slavery must be abolished throughout the world.
Incompatible with civil and religious liberty, and opposed
to the doctrine of Christ, it must feel the paralyzing in-
fluence of those benevolent principles which are destined
to destroy the pride and tyranny of the human heart,
and to induce man to acknowledge in his fellow man, an
equal and a brother. Thus it ^pears, that, while there
are a few. things in and about Kio which are calculated
to excite our admiration, there are many which are truly
deplorable. Enveloped in a midnight gloom, forgetful
of her God, and bound with chains of bigotry and super-
stition, Rio de Janeiro is ir'<^^cd a valley of the shadow
of death. But the beauty and grandeur of the natural
scenery by which she is environed, the salubrity of the
climate, the spontaneous growth of the most delicious
fruits, with all the natural advantages by which she is
distinguished, in connexion with the pure religion of the
meek and lowly Jesus, would constitute her an earthly
paradise.
' ■■
1 I
..# I •%.'■'-.- 1
■: Vi;, '■>-
J.^T^; . f .
.■•H((j
If
■''aY^ .
'Si '.
-.i\i ,;. '.M*
t ' ! ' ■- '
* CHAPTER m. :
Journal continued — Departure from Rio — Rev. Mr. Spauldtaf — French Fleet —
Violent Morm — Flying jib boom carried away — Dinner lost — Storm abates —
Christmas — Heat — Doubting Cape Horn — Gale nineteen days — Under bare
poles — Prosperity — Sight of land — Brig Andes — Arrival at Valparaiso —
Snwil pox — Danger — Description of the city — Its civil and political condi-
tion — Religion — Superstition, illustrated by amusing incidents — Protestantism
— Importance of Valparaiso — Adventures round about the city — > Great dis>
erepaney — Appropriate nams.
The time fixed upon for leaving Rio, to proceed on our
voyage, was Saturday morning, the 14th of December.
Accordingly^ at that time, we were all prepared for
weighing anchor ; but a strong south wind commenced
blowing directly into the harbor, and detained us during
the whole day. In the mornmg, the Rev. Mr. Spaulding
came on board, and continued with us for several hours,
during which he gave us a very interesting address.
He also gave a short account of the mission in Rio, in
which he related some striking anecdotes, illustrative
of the success with which his labors had been crowned.
Before leaving, he commended us to God and to the
word of His g^'ace, in fervent prayer, and then, bidding
us an affectionate farewell, lowered himself by a rope
into a small skiff, which lay under the lee of the Lau-
sanne, and was conveyed back to the shore. The season
was one of deep interest, and kindred feelings palpitated
every heart. And, as this fellow missionary left us to
immure himself again in what is worse than heathenism
itself, we could but invoke the God of battles to prepare
his way, and sustain him with omnipotent grace, that he
might witness more abundant success attending his la-
bors, and finally see the man of sin fall to rise no more.
The south wind had abated the next morning, and a
land breeze was favorable for our leaving the harbor.
ill.:
; i
VOYAGE TO ORKOON.
63
Consequently, after the customary visits by government
officers, we raised the anchor, and spreading our sails
again to the wind, bid adieu to the dominions of Don
Pedro the second, and were soon tossed upon old ocean's
billows, with our vessel's prow directed towards the
cape of storms.
The same morning, a French fleet of war of eight
sail, weighed anchor, and passed majestically out of the
harbor before us. This fleet was destined io join the
blockading squadron before Buenos Ayres, and to bom-
bard the city, provided the United Provinces did not
comply with the imperious demands of the French.
The first day out we had a violent storm ; the sea
was very rough, and nearly every one of the passengers
was called again to suffer with sea sickness. In the
course of the storm the vessel encountered a number of
mountain waves. At one time, through the carelessness
of the helmsman, she plunged her bows so far into the
water that her jib and flying jib went completely under,
and when she rose, her flying jib boom was carried away,
and the sails were both rent into shreds from top to bot-
tom. A table was set for dinner in the captain s cabin,
and all the dishes were thrown clear from the table into
the steward's locker, and dashed io pieces. The shock
given to the vessel was exceedingly violent, and caused
it to tremble in every joint. This was on Sunday. The
following day the wind abated, and, changing a few
points, became more favorable. For a number of sub-
sequent days, a fine breeze wafted us rapidly onwards,
and on Christmas day, at 12 o'clock, m*, we were in
latitude thirty-nine degrees, thirty minutes, south.
This was the warmest Christmas we had ever seen,
the thermometer ranging at eighty in the shade. Rev.
Jason Lee delivered, on the occasion of Christmas, an
appropriate discourse, on the subject of the advent of
Christ
Wednesday, January 8th, 1840. For a number of
days past we have been favored with a prosperous v/ind,
and are now within four degrees of Cape Horn. Thus
far, our way has been remarkably prospered. The
! :
^•^
,
64
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
weather is now very calm, with a gentle breeze from
the north-west ; but we are approaching the region of
storms, and can scarcely hope to double the Cape with
the delightful weather we are now experiencing.
Friday, 10th. According to our expectations, the
slumbering winds were aroused, and we began to expe-
rience the difficulties of doubling Cape Horn. About
9 o'clock, A. M., a severe gale came down upon us with
the most threatening violence. Every stitch of canvass
was immediately taken in, and for more than forty-eiglit
hours wc lay under the bare poles, the very sport of
both wind and water. The gale was said by the captain
to be one of the most violent he had ever experienced.
On the 15th, the wind* had so far abated that we were
able again to carry sail, but found by an observation at
noon, that we had been driven several degrees out of
our course.
Monday, 27th. For many days past we have been
baffled with contrary winds, and indeed this is the nine-
teenth day since we have had any thing like a fair breeze.
Our course has been west, but we have been compelled
to run almost every point of compass, and the most of
the time to contend with violent gales. In consequence
of head winds we were carried nearly to the sixty-first
degree of south latitude ; and Cape Horn being in the
fifty-sixth, we were nearly three hundred miles south of
th3 Cape. By an observation this day we found our
longitude to be sixty-eight degrees, twelve minutes,
which is a few miles west of the Diegoes. We have
therefore left the Atlantic ocean, and are now on the
waters of the Pacific. It is not common for vessels to
be driven so far to the south in doubling the Cape.
Perhaps the greater part pass round within sight of the
Cape or the Diegoes ; but the only land discernible from
our vessel, in the vicinity of the Cape, was Statea Land,
which presented its lofty summit to our view the day
before we experienced the commencement of the Cape
Horn gales. Though it was midsummer, in the southern
hemisphere, while we were doubling the Cape, yet at
sixty-one degrees we found it excessively cold. Hail
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
65
frequently fell on deck, and though no icebergs appeared
in sight, It was judged, from the coldness of the atmos-
phere, that they were at no great distance. At this
season of the year, in this latitude, the sun rises a few
minutes after three and sets a few minutes before nine,
and daylight scarcely disappears during the whole night.
We have to proceed but seven degrees farther south,
and the day will be one month long, at the sun's farthest
declination south.
During our long detention here, by successive storms,
we were frequently entertained by the appearance of
the huge monsters of the deep, and a vast variety of the
feathered tribes of the ocean. Whiles, lashing the briny
element, and spouting the huge spray high into the air ;
porpoises, gamboling over the waves like flocks of ante-
lopes over the western plains ; the auk or penffuin, which
is a link connecting the feathered with the finny tribe,
with the albatros, stormy petrel, cape pigeon and many
others, appeared from time to time around us, in large
numbers, contributing much to amuse us, and diverting
our attention even from the successive tempests, that
howled around us for nineteen days.
On the 28 th, Providence again favored us with a fair
wind, and enabled us to direct our course to the north,
and for several days we were carried forward at the
rate of seven and nine knots an hour.
On the 3d of February, we found ourselves off the
western entrance of the Straits of Magellan.
Our passage round the Cape was a stormy one for the
season of the year, but the winds and waves were under
the control of the Almighty, who seemed to smile on
our enterprise, and interpose in our behalf while naviga-
ting the tempestuous waters of the southern ocean.
We now steered our course for Valparaiso, on the
coast of Chili, where we intended to take in water and
other supplies. Our passage up the coast was barren of
incident worthy of special notice, until the morning of
the 18th, when our eyes were once more delighted with
the sight of land, the coast of Chili, about forty miles
3*
li
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VOYAGE TO OREGON.
south of Valparaiso Head, presenting its dark outlines
thirty miles distant over our starboard bow.
The wind died away as we approached the shore, and
we were consequently unable to proceed directly into
port. A number of vessels appeared near us, bound to
the same place, with one of which we had a friendly
interview. She proved to be the brig Andes, of Liver-
pool, forty-eight days from Sydney, New South Wales.
We had a shower of rain, with lightning, at ten o'clock,
and the rest of the day were becalmed within ten miles
of land. A dead swell bore us slowly towards the shore,
and in the evening we could distinctly hear the surf of
the ocean, breaking against the rocks. The captain
manifested great anxiety, lest we might be dashed to
pieces on the iron bound coast. At twelve o'clock at
night a light breeze sprung up, and enabled us to remove
to a safer distance from the snore. The following morn-
ing, after the rising sun had dissipated the fog that
enveloped the shore, the high bluffs, called Valparaiso
Head, appeared directly before us. A fresh ocean
breeze sprang up, and bore us directly towards the
harbor, and on our rieht appeared a beautiful bay.
which washed a broad and delightful sandy beach.
Variety was given to the prospect, by the appearance
of strange looking birds on the wing, passing from one
side of the bay to the other. At noon we rounded
Valparaiso Head, and the city, harbor, and shipping
were spread out in full view before us. We dropped
our anchor half a mile distant from the landing, and
were immediately boarded by government officers, who
examined us before permitting us to go on shore. A
number of American gentlemen also came on board, and
showed themselves remarkably polite and friendly. They
informed us that the small pox had made terrible havoc
among the inhabitants of the place, especially the natives,
but that it had, in a measure, subsided. They said that
all the foreigners who had been vaccinated, had entirely
escaped, and that they did not apprehend there would
be any danger in our going ashore, and purchasing what*
VOYAGE TO OREGON,
9f
ever necessaries we desired ; that there would be as
much danger in taking the disease from those who came
v'^ board from the shore, as from going on shore our-
selves. Accordingly we came to the conclusion to act
as though no fatal epidemic prevailed in Valparaiso,
except that, on goinj ashore, we would avoid those
places where the disease continued to rage most, espe-
cially the hospital, presuming that, in our case also,
vaccination would prove a safeguard against contracting
the disease. Having attended to the preliminaries, a
number of the passengers accompanied the captain on
shore, and, upon landing, found the city of Valparaiso
much as it appears to be on entering the harbor, very
forbidding in its aspects. The streets are generally
narrow, and badly paved, and the houses are generally
low, being but one story. This is designed to preserve
them from the destructive effects of the frequent earth-
quakes, which take place along the Chilian coast.
The city lies around a beautiful bay which constitutes
its harbor, and is about one mile and a half long, and
varying much in breadth in consequence of the moun-
tains behind the city, which, in some places, extend down
nearly to the shore of the bay. These mountains have
been dug away at their base, so as to afford room for
two or three tiers of buildings back from the shore.
This space being filled, the inhabitants retired back on
the sides of the mountains, where there are a number of
contracted plains, which form eligible sites for building.
Here a number of gentlemen, mostly foreigners, have
erected their fine cottages, and live in princely style.
But in the hill part of the city, as well as near the shore,
there is but little regularity or beauty. The number of
inhabitants is variously estimated from eight to twelve
thousand, among which are fifty Americans, and some
English, Germans and French. The foreigners are by
far the most interesting part of the population, and do
nearly all the heavy business of the place.
The civil and political condition of the country was
any thing but prosperous. The people were frequently
breaking cut in rebellion • the city was under martial
li
i
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VOYAGE TO OREGON.
law, and the whole country seemed to be verging to-
wards a state of anarchy. It was the time of theii
election, and such was the excitement that prevailed,
particularly among the peasantry, that it was extremely
dangerous for foreigners to go far back from the city, as
they were generally taken to be the enemies of the
Republic, and were looked upon, by the Chili^ps, as theii
lawful prey. Robberies and murders were frequent
and from the weakness and inefficiency of the govern-
ment, were committed with impunity. However, the
Chilians are quite partial to Americans, because they are
citizens of a sister Republic.
The religion of the country is Romanism, which here
exhibits itself in all its principles of intolerance and per-
secution, as well as in its superstitions and bigotry. A
circumstance or two, illustrative of the ignorance and
superstition of the Chilian Papists, I will relate. At the
time of the great earthquake, in 1822, which nearly
destroyed the city of Conception, and greaily injured
Valparaiso, when the shock was first felt in the latter,
a large number of the inhabitants fled for safety to the
Catholic cathedral, under the impression that Heaven
would interpose in behalf of the sacred edifice, and pre-
vent its destruction. To render themselves still more
secure against the danger which threatened them, they
took down the venerable images of St. Peter and St.
Paul, from the places they had occupied from time
immemorial, and placed them as a guard at the door of
the cathedral. The principal seat of the earthquake
being in the sea, the water rushed from its bed into the
city ; the foundatio. ^ of the city trembled ; the earth
heaved with convulsions, and the cathedral, with one
tremendous crash, tumbled into a heap of ruins, and
five hundred persons were either killed by the falling
walls and timbers of the building, or drowned by the
flood of waters that deluged the place. The shock sub-
sided ; the waters returned to their place ; and the next
day the images of Peter and Paul were found floating
in the harbor. The indignant survivors took the image
of Peter, he being the more guilty of the two, and
VOYAGE fo OREGON.
60
perforated a hole through his body, and pinned him upon
the beach, at low water mark, as a punishment for his
cowardice, and for deserting tbem in the hour of danger.
As he abandoned them to so awful a calamity, they
abandoned him to the fury of the waves.
Although the laws of Chili do not tolerate any religion
but Romanism, yet there is a minister of the English
church in the city, who is permitted to preach to the
foreign residents without molestation. They will not
permit a Protestant to preach in the language of the
country; if one should attempt it, he would immediately
be driven from their coast, or forfeit his hfe. As a mat-
ter of course, there is but little chance for missionary
operations among the people, except so far as the English,
American and German residents are concerned. Among
these an intelligent, prudent, and devoted missionary,
might render himself abundantly useful. But the time
will come, notwithstanding the fierce opposition that
now rages against Protestantism, when the vain mumme-
ries of ropery must pass away, and the darkness that
now shrouds the people with a midnight gloom, shall be
succeeded by the light of the glorious Sun of righteous-
ness, which shall rise upon this, benighted country with
healing in his wings.
The importance of Valparaiso lies in its eligible situa-
tion for commerce, it being the entrepot for a great
portion of the Republic of Chili. The high hills or
mountains, which surround the city on three sides, and
extend many miles back, are actually as barren as their
appearance from the ocean indicates, affording but a
scanty allowance of vegetation for a few sheep, goats,
and donkeys. All the supplies of fruit, meat, vegetables,
&c., for the city and shipping, are brought on the backs
of mules and asses, from valleys which lie fror^i forty to
a hundred miles distant ; and even the wood for fire,
brickbats, tiles, and other materials for building, are
brought in the same manner.
With this description of the place, I now proceed to
relate a few adventures. Immediately on landing, we
proceeded up through the city ; took a view of the
1
y"
70
VOYAOB TO OREGON.
custom house, which, by the way, is a fine building ;
went into a number of stores, and finally came round to
the market, where we found an abundance of fruit, similar
to that of New York. We regaled ourselves on peaches,
pears, plums, grapes, &c., but soon discovered a boy
lying near us on a couch, and partly covered with a rug.
We enquired what the matter was with him, and were
informed that he was just recovering from the small pox.
Looking around us, we saw a number in a similar condi-
tion, and concluded that we should give the virtue of
vaccination a faithful trial. Tying up some fruit in our
handkerchiefs for our families on board, we returned to
the vessel for the night.
Not being able to weigh anchor the next morning as
we expected, we entertained ourselves with another
excursion on shore. Purchasing a few articles to take
back to the ship when we returned, we bent our course
up the beach, south of the city, and taking a narrow
footpath, which wound up a steep declivity, soon found
ourselves on an artificial steppe of some thirty or forty
feet square, and which commanded a beautiful view of
the bay and harbor of Valparaiso. From this we
ascended another declivity one hundred feet high, nearly
perpendicular, and from its top enjoyed a lovely prospect
of the city and surrounding country. Continuing cur
course, we passed a numb 3r of deep ravines, climbed a
number of high bluflfs, and came to the lighthouse, which
stands on the summit of Valparaiso Head. From this
place, we discovered, near the shore, a cross erected on
a rock, and approaching it, found that it was the sign of
a burying ground, or rather a depository for dead bodies.
In the language of scripture it might be called " Golgo-
tha, the place of a skull ; " for the ground was literally
covered with human bones. Here had been dug a deep
hole about twelve feet square, into which those who had
died with the small pox in the city, had been indiscrimi-
nately thrown. They were conveyed here from the
hospital, and other places, in carts and wheelbarrows,
so soon as they were dead, and perhaps sometimes be-
fore ; and, uncoflined and unshrouded, were cast into
I
VOYACrB TO OKBGON.
^
1^
one common reservoir, where their bones will mingle,
undistin^ished, till the resurrection morn. Turning
from this sickening sight, we proceeded over a high
point of land, and came down to the shore of a beautiful
bay, which constituted a resort for a variety of sea fowl;
and having refreshed ourselves with bread, and bathed
in the ocean, we collected a few shells and other curiosi-
ties, and turned our course backward towards the landing.
Rising over a high and barren hill, in the rear of the
city, we entered a deep ravine, very narrow at the bot-
ton, and forming a channel for a small rill of water.
Each bank was covered with a spontaneous growth of
the sage plant and other shrubbery, while, by the side
of the brook, groups of females from the city were
seen, who had resorted thither for the purpose of wash-
ing their clothes. As we parsed down the narrow path
which had been cut into the almost perpendicular sides
of the mountains, we met a large number of donkeys
driven by natives, with two casks slung across each one
of thoir backs for the purpose of conveying into the city.
For some distance up this ravine, there are dwellings
erected where there is sufficient room, and in many
places small mud-walled cottages have been stuck into
the side of the mountain, where places have been exca-
vated for that purpose. This ravine led us directly into
the back part of the city ; and, after taking a view of
the cathedral, which had been rebuilt on the -«?; ae site
since its destruction by the earthquake, and cciLc^ing a
few necessaries for the comfort of our fam .i-o on oui
continued voyage, we bid adieu to the Chilian coast,
very unfavorably impressed as regards the condition of
the country.
One thing which particularly struck us on examining
the city of Valparaiso and the country in its immediate
vicinity, was the wonderful discrepancy betwixt the
name and the place. Valparaiso signifies Vale of Para-
dise ; and certainly no word has ever been more abused
than this, in its application to this place. Coflsidering its
irregularity; the narrowness and nlthiness of the streets ;
the squalid appearance of many of its inhabitants ; the
Sii !
'.
fl
■it
VOYAOB TO OREOOV.
obscenity which presents itself in almost every direc-
tion ; the loathsome diseases which prevail ; the cloomy
character of its relicion, and the barrenness of the sur-
rounding country, Valparaiso is well entitled to a re-
baptism, and might appropriately be called, the ** Valley
of the Shadow of Death. "
•m
M'
V4-« T*-* 4^^-' ■^^*ik-''i/*.^ £M-^'fri' -4S-'-r f
CHAPTER lY.
Journal continued — Raising anchor — View of the Andes - Brig — ii'acific ocesn
rightly named — Capture of a sea monster — Difficulty among the sailors —
Spoken by a whaler — Captain Sawyar — Island of Mowi — Hawaii — Oahu —
Honolulu — Remarks on the Island — Oahu and its city — Sabbath — Introduction
to the royal family — Interview — Anniversary of the landing of missionaries —
Visit to the Para — Battle ground — Kamehameha L — Waiakiki — Valley of
Manoah — Source of prosperity — Difficulty with the French — Arrogance of
Captain La Place — Impression upon the Hawaiians.
On the morning of the 22d of February, we were all
ready to proceed on our voyage, and commenced raising
our anchor, but the anchor of a French barque getting
foul of ours, we were obliged to raise both at the same
time, and were consequently detained until four o^clock
in the afternoon. At this time a land breeze favored our
departure, and again unfurling our canvass to the wind,
we directed our course for the Sandwich Islands. After
we had proceeded a few miles from the shore, we
enjoyed, from the deck of our vessel, a clear and distinct
view of the towering Cordilleras. This astonishingrange
of mountains, which extends from the Isthmus of Darien
to the Straits of Magellan, is situated here, sixty or
seventy miles from the shore, and there is something
peculiarly grand in their appearance at this vast distance;
and surely a near view must be sublime beyond descrip-
tion. Some of them present a white appearance, as if
covered with snow, and others assume a sombre hue,
representing the moral darkness which surrounds the
whole country. Some of them lift their towering sum-
mits far above the clouds, and seem to look do\vn with
contempt upon the storms which howl around their base.
While contemplating this most stupendous range of
mountains on the globe, a fine breeze from the south
'JV-.
III
74
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
filled our already expanded sails, and in forty-eight hours
we had run four hundred miles.
On Tuesday, the 25th, an American brig showed us
the stars and stripes; we returned the compliment, and
passed on. On the 28th, we passed into the torrid zone,
but still found the weather comfortably cool, the mercury
standing at sixty-seven degrees in the shade. The small
pox not appearing among us the tenth day out, we con-
cluded that all had escaped without catching the disease.
For this indication of Providential care, we felt to offer
unfeigned thanksgiving.
The ocean which washes the western shore of the
continent of North America, is pacific, both in name and
nature. Nothing could exceed the pleasantness of our
sailing for twenty-five days after leaving Valparaiso.
The wind was constant from the south-east, never
strong, and consequently the ocean was smooth ; and,
with little perceptible motion, we were borne along from
one to two hundred miles per day.
On the 19th of March we re-crossed the equinoctial
line at west longitude one hundred and sixteen degrees.
We found the weather, in the region of the equator, not
so warm as we anticipated, yet, at night, the heat in the
cabin was somewhat oppressive; but during the day we
were constantly fanned by the gentle and cooling breeze
which wafted us onward towards our destiiiation.
On the 23d, the monotony of our voyage was broken
in upon by the capture of one of the monsters of the
deep. Two uncommonly large sharks appeared on our
stern, attended by pilot fish, and a number albicores.
The pilot fish is the jackall of the lion of the deep, and it
is said that the albicore usually follows in the train, for
the purpose of sharing in the prey taken by the shark.
We fastened a rope to a large shark hook, which we
baited with a piece of pork, and cast '* *i>to the sea.
The sharks were soon attracted by it, and one of them
seizing the bait, the sailors drew upon the rope, and the
hook fastened to his upper jaw, but it required several
men to draw him up along side the ship, and it was
necessary to rig a pulley before he could be hoisted over
•fi
VOYAOB TO OREGON.
n
•'
the bulwarks on to the deck. As this was the first view
we had had of a shark, no little curiosity was excited on
board by his appearance among us. This curiosity was
not satisfied until even the physiology of his sharkship
was thoroughly investigated by dissection. One claimed
his back bone, one his jaw bone, one his teeth, one his
fins, and another his tail ; the remainder was cast back
into the ocean, and soon devoured. In addition to the
shark, there appeared, about the same time, two large
sword fish, bounding out of the water, and showing their
silvery sides, but we were obliged to be satisfied to view
them at a distance, as they manifested no inclination to
be captured.
On the 24th, having passed through the region of
variables, we were favored with a strong north-east
trade, and, during one week, we sailed the distance of
thirteen hundred miles; but, on the morning of the 3 1st,
the weather became squally. This was supposed to be
occasioned by our contiguity to a number of small
islands, which lay to the windward of us.
It had been the practice of some of the ministers on
board, to preach occasionally to the sailors in the fore-
castle, and, apparently, considerable ^ood had been
accomplished in this manner. Many of them had be-
come very serious, and a few had professed to experi-
ence a change of heart ; but a circumstance transpired
on the 24th, which was as afflicting to all on board as it
was injurious to the sailors. Charley, the sail maker, a
Dane by birth, being a pestilent fellow, though a favorite
among the seamen, refused to perform, immediately, the
pleasure of the mate, Mr. Farrington. The latter re-
quired Chprley to carry a musket from the bow of the
ship back towards the stern, but not doing it so soon as
it was supposed he ought, Farrington drew hid fist, and
smote Charley back of the ear, and knocked him on the
windlass, so that he received a severe wound in the
head. The blood ran freely; the sailors became much
excited, and resolved that there should be no more
preaching among them, but subsequently recalled this
resolution, and allowed us to continue our instructions.
;'l' '■■
•■ ^
I
A'
76
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
They were a heterogeneous class, beinc composed of
Danes, Prussians, Germans, English, Irish and Yankees.
On the 3d of April, we discovered a sail on our
larboard quarter, about six miles off. She appeared
desirous of speaking with us, and soon there appeared a
speck on the water oetween the two vessels, wnich after
a while could be distinguished as a whale boat approach-
ing us. We luffed up to the wind, and waited for her
to come along side. Soon she was under the lee of the
Lausanne. She contained six men, two Americans, one
of whom was the captain, one African, and three Sand-
wich Islanders. The captain came on board, and re-
ported his ship as the whaler Fama, of Boston, seventeen
months from home, and himself as Captain Sawyer. He
appeared highly gratified to receive "news from home,"
though what we brought was nearly six months old.
The Kanakas, or Sand vich Islanders, were stout, noble-
looking fellows, and Mr. Dibble, the Presbyterian mis-
sionary, understanding the Hawaiian language, entered
into conversation with them. He learned from them
that both the king and queen of the Islands were con-
verted, and had become members of the Church. He
also learned that the king had removed his residence
from Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, to Lahina, on
Mowi, in consequence of the temptation to drunkeness
which beset him in the former place, he having been
intemperate previous to his conversion. This is a fine
example for converted drunkards. Let them remove as
far as possible from the cause of their ruin. Captain
Sawyer, after having obtained a few potatoes and other
vegetables, which are always a great rarity to whale-
men a long time out, left us to pursue our course, and
returned to his hazardous employment.
Tuesday, the 8th, at eleven o'clock, the island of
Mowi presented its high bluffs to our view about forty
miles to the south-west of us, making it forty-five days
since we lost sight of Chilian coast. We could also
indistinctly see the high mountains of Owyhee, or Ha-
waii, which, however, were about seventy miles off.
Between these two islands is a channel thirty miles
\
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
77
wide. On Hawaii is a burning mountain, which is
considered a great curiosity. In consequence of a ."suc-
cession of cairns and squalls, we were detained off the
islands longer than we anticipated.
For several days the weather was dark and gloomy,
the sea ran high, the rain fell in torrents, and we thought
of the fate oi the Lark, which was lost on the coral
reef, which surrounds the island of Hawaii. In the
evening of the 10th, however, we came in sight of
Morokai, another of the group; but not considering it
safe to run down the channel in the night, we taclked
ship and lay to the wind. The following morning the
island of Oahu could be distinctly seen in the misty
distance. This island presents an excellent waymark
for navigators, and is known by one of its high moun-
tains, which appears to rise out of the ocean in the form
of a sugar loaf. At twelve o'clock of the 11th, we
had Diamond Hill in full view before us, and there
appeared something across a large bay which Mr. Dibble
informed us Was the city of Honolulu. Presently, we
were abreast of the city, though at the distance of four
miles. The channel into the harbor being pointed out
by Mr. Dibble, our course was directed towards it, and
we were soon boarded by an old gentleman who acts as
pilot for the harbor. In a few moments our anchor was
dropped in the roads outside the coral reef which encir-
cles the island of Oahu. We immediately received a
visit from the U. S. consul, Mr. Brinsmade, and Captain
Stetson. The latter is the son-in-law of the Rev. John
Lindsey, of New York, and resided on the island of
Towi. He had been waiting for our arrival for five
weeks. These two gentlemen, after paying their
respects, returned to the shore, and provided ^'^.commo-
dations for about twelve of the passengers for the
following night.
The next day, the vessel was brought into the inner
harbor, and provision was made for a number of other
families, but some were under the necessity of continu-
ing on board over the Sabbath. On Monday, however,
our indefatigable friends, the consul and Captain Stetson,
m
ill
II
I
78
VOYAGE TO ORBOON.
succeeded in procuring comfortable lodgings for all the
passengers during their stay on the island. The consul
IS a member of the Presbyterian church, and Captain
Stetson is a member of the M. E. Church. Both, by
their unremitting attention to our wants, secured our
warmest affection. The members of the Presbyterian
mission, and many of the foreign residents, extended to
us that cordial hospitality whicn is seldom exhibited to
a company of strangers. It fell to my lot, with my
family, to be entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Johnstone,
the teachers of Oahu Charity School, whose dwelling
commands a fine view of the mountain scenery, the
rolling surf, and the city and harbor of Honolulu.
The Sandwich Islands are ten in number, Hawaii
being the principal in extent and the number of its
inhabitants, but Oahu first in. point of commercial impor-
tance. They once contained several hundred thousand
inhabitants, but of late years, their population has
greatly decreased. This, doubtless, has been the result
of their connexion with foreigners; and strange as it
may appear, christian nations have introduced theses
means into the Sandwich Islands, that are destined to
prove the destruction of the Hawaiian nation. Intem-
perance, with its concomitant evils, threatens the ruin
of these islands, but thanks to an overruling Providence,
with the seeds of death, a conservative influence has
been introduced. The cross of Christ has been erected
on these shores, and thousands have rallied around it.
There are forty families of missionaries scattered over
these islands, who are supported by the American Board
of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, whose labors
have been crowned with wonderful success. Of the
one hundred thousand inhabitants which the islands now
contain, seventeen thousand are members of the church,
and Paganism has no existence in the group.
The island of Oahu is about sixty miles long and forty
broad, and contains a population of about twenty thou-
sand souls. The city of Honolulu is by far the most
noted place on the island, as it is the commercial empo-
rium for the whole group. It is delightfully situated on
VOYAUE TO OREGON.
79
a beautiful plain, and surrounded with the most enchant-
ing scenery, variegated with ocean, hills, cloud-capped
mountains, and rich and fertile vales.
The climate is delightful, the mercury seldom rising
above eighty-five degrees in the shade, nor sinking below
forty. The number of the inhabitants at present is
about ten thousand, four hundred of whom are foreir ors.
Here are English, French, Americans, Chinese, Africans,
&c. ; the most of the foreigners, however, are Americans.
Some of them have large mercantile establishments, and
are extensively engaged in the sugar business. The
private dwellings of some of the citizens, both native
and foreign, are well built, and richly furnished. The
coral rock, which here abounds, is becoming extensively
used for building, and makes an excellent material for
that purpose. The buildings of the missionaries are
principally of coral, well made, commodiously situated,
and suitably furnished.
The next Sabbath after landing, we attended the
native church in which the Rev. H. Bingham officiates,
and, to our astonishment, found collected about two
thousand Hawaiians, to hear the word of the Lord.
These were, nearly all of them, decently clad; a few,
however, were almost entirely naked, but they all be-
haved with becoming propriety, and the most strict
attention was paid to tne word dispensed. The preacher
addressed them in the native language. The meeting
house was built after the native style, being thatched
with grass from the bottom to the top. The house,
however, is getting out of repair, and another is being
erected of coral, near this, which will seat, on the
ground floor, when completed, three thousand persons.
Besides this, there is another native church in the
city, of which the Rev. Lowell Smith is pastor. This
has been built but two years, and the congregation num-
bers from twenty to twenty-five hundred.
There is also a Bethel chapel, commodiously situated,
which was erected by the Seaman's Friend Society, and
is under the pastoral care of the Rev. Mr. Diell, who
was absent from his charge on account of ill health.
80
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
This was occupied every Sabbath by the Methodist
missionaries during their continuance on the island.
Through the influence of Mr. Brinsmade, we were
all favored with an introduction to the royal family.
One hour previous to the time appointed for our inter-
view, we collected at the American Consulate, which is
situated about one half mile from the king's house, and,
at the time specified, marched down through the city
towards the fort, where we were met by a soldier, who
conducted us to the audience chamber. We were intro-
duced into a room of some twenty feet square, spread
with Chinese carpeting, and well furnished with tables,
chairs, sofas, &c., for the accommodation of visitors.
The king and his suite were not present when we
entered, out being informed of our arr ;al, the former
soon made his appearance, attended by the governor of
Oahu, and a very large and dignified woman who had
been the wife of*^ two kings, and who then officiated as
his majesty's prime minister, and her httle son, of some
eight years of age, who was heir apparent to the throne.
They received us with much grace and dignity, and
bidding us welcome to their shores, assured us of their
friendship. The object of our expedition being explained
by the consul, and interpreted to the king by the Rev.
Mr. Richards, both the king and his premier expressed
their astonishment and admiration, and said that they
ardently desired that we might be prospered in our
enterprise. They pronounced our cause "good," and
prof!'ered their hospitalities while we were with them,
and their continued aid in the prosecution of our work.
Our superintendent, the Rev. Jason Lee, addressed
his majesty through the interpreter, relative to our mis-
sion in Oregon, and proposed an exchange of the produce
of that country, consisting of flour, fish, beef, &c., for the
products of the Sandwich Islands, consisting of sugar,
molasses, cof!ee, indigo, &c., to which the kmg seemed
heartily to concur, and said that he was very much
pleased with the idea. This conversation being closed,
the consul gave signs that it was time to retire, and
accordingly we all aroje, and passing round the room,
▼OYAOE TO OREGON.
81
one after another, shook hands with the king, his min-
ister and her son, and departed, highly gratified with
our interview with the royal family of the Hawaiian
nation. Here wtre displayed none of the pomp and
trappings of royalty, nont; of the parade and ceremony
usually exhibited in the courts of kings. Bnt every
tliiiiif, the apartments, furniture, and apparel of the
royal family, partook of that neatness and simplicity
Tiurthy the supreme head of an infant and dependent
nati(;n. The king was uressod in blue broadcloth, made
u|) in the English style, with epaulettes on his shoulders
and a miniature crown on the lapel of his coat. He is
distinguished by the title of Kamehameha the Third.
On Monday, the 10th, the twentieth anniversary of
the landing of the iirst missionaries on the island of
Oahu, was celebrated at the house of Rev. H. Bingham,
who was one of the pioneers in the business of evange-
lizing these islands of the ocean. The season was
rendered interesting by many hallowing associations.
A short history of the Sandwich Island mission was
given by Mr. Bingham, and, in view of the astonishing
results of missionary labor, as seen in the elevation of
the Hawaiian nation, from the deepest degradation of
lieathenism, to the enjoyment of the blessings of Chris-
tianity and civilization, surely we had reason to exclaim,
in the language of Moses, " What hath God wrought ! "
On Thursday, the 22d, we visited what is called, in
the language ot' the country, the Para, about eight miles
east of Honolulu. We were accompanied by the consul.
Captain Garter, Captain Grimes, Dr. Judd and lady, and
Mrs. Hooper. At half past nine we had all mounted
our horses, which had been provided for our use, and,
led by the consul, proceeded out of the city, like a troop
of cavalry, on the round gallop ; and taking a winding
path, we soon found ourselves on a contracted plain,
with huge mountains on our right and left, rising some
thousands of feet high, their lofty heads being orna-
mented with caps of neecy clouds.
Presently we entered a dark thicket, and found the
path so narrow and difficult, that it was impossible to
63
VOYAOE TO ORfSGUN.
I ■
proceed but by s'mgh file, and ^t a very slow. pace.
After descending and ascending a number of almost
perpendicular banks, where somie of the ladies found it
very difficult to keep to their saddles, and fording a
small rivulet which dashed through the thicket, we came
into a small opening, overgrown with grass, and within
few rods of the Para. Here we dismounted, and
u
leaving our horses in the care of some Kanakas, who
had placed themselves here for that pttrpose, proceeded
on foot to view the object of our curiosity. Soon we
found ourselves on the brink of a frightful precipice
several hundred feet high, and almost perpendicular,
down which there are steps cut in the rock to enablp
persons to ascend and descend in safety. This is the
only place where it is possible for persons to. pass from
one side of the island to the other without making Ihe
circuit of the shore, and this pass has been always con-
sidered remarkably ditlicul%' and, dangerous. But in 1837,
Mr. Alanson Beers, a blacksmith, who accompanied one
of the forraipr expeditions to" Oregon, made an important
improvement in this pass, by fixing firm into the rock, a
railing of iron for some distance down the steepest part
of the descent. This Para is six hundred feet above the
level of the ocean, descending to the north-east abruptly
until you arrive at a plain, which extends about three
miles to the shore, and which 8up]iorts a population of
more than five thousand people. The appearance of this
plain from the top of the Para, dotted with the adobe-
walled cottages of the islanders, and near the centre of
which was pointed out the dwelling of the Rev. Mr.
Parker, and the church where listening hundreds are
taught the way to heaven, is truly delightful ; and, with
the grandeur of the mountain and ocean scenery, is a
full compensation for the labor and difficulty of visiting
the place.
This Para is noted, not only for the sublime natural
scenery by which it is surrounded, but also for its inte-
resting historical associations. Here terminated one of
the bloodiest wars that ever desolated these islands.
Having satisfied our curiosity, we remounted, rode
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
S3
•i
tiiral
intti-
■rie of
rode
'1
over the battle ground, stopped to take a view of a
beautiful cataract, and returned to a house owned by
the consul, and situated about twd miles out of the city,
where we sat down to a sumptuous repast. Here we
spent a social hour, until the heat of the day had passed,
and then, taking to our horses, galloped back to the city,
well pleased with our excursion.
On Saturday, the 25th, rode up to Waiakiki, about
three miles, whd^ire there is a beautiful cocoanut grove;
i'rom thence to the valley of Mahoah, by way of the
Chinese tomb^, passing^ the country residence of the
Rev. H. Bingham. This valley is exceedingly fertile,
and much frequented by visitors, on account of its de-
lightful mountain scenery. In this valley is situated the
old i)alaoei the residence of some of the former kings.
It is a small thatched cptta^e, surrounded by a dense
grove of fruit tree§, resembhng in appearance the apple
tree. The building is in a*very dilapidated condition,
and constitutes the habitation of bats, mice, and other
vermin. On returning to the city, wc vr^e informed
that the vessel would leave the harbor of Honolulu for
her destination on the morning of the 28th. This gave
us but little time to extend our observations ; but from
the few we were able to take, we were favorably im-
l)resscd with regard to the importance of the Sandwich
Islands. Doubtless the prosperity of these islands has
depended, and still depends, mainly upon the whale ships
that annually flock to their ports.
The people of the islands, both native and foreign, had
not recovered from a feverish excitement, into which they
had recently been throvvU by the belligerent attitude in
which a French man of war presented itself before
Honolulu. The principal offences against France, of
which the Frenchman complained, were, first, that the
Hawaiians had refused to admit French Roman Caih(.>lic
missionaries to land on the islands, when Prote^^tant
missionaries had always been dlowed that privilege ;
and, second, that the Hawaiian government had passed
a law prohibiting tin introduction of French brandy.
For these crimeSy France resolved to call the wicked
¥*
84
VOYAGE TO ORBOON.
Hawaiians to an accoimt ; and, consequently, so soon as
the frigate arrived, which had been sent to comp)el
the Hawaiians to submission, the French commander,
Captain La Place, in the most menacing form, sent the
king word that he had a certain number of hours to
select between two alternatives. First, Roman Catholic
missionaries must be admitted without restraint; the
landing of French brandy in any quantities must be
allowed ; and the Hawaiian government must pay to
the French an indemnity of twenty thousand dollars;
or, second, the favorite town of the islanders must suffer
all the horrors of a bomj^ardment, with the prospect of
an entire subjugation to the French. For awhile the
king hesitated whether to be buried amidst the ruins of
his country, or submit to the unjust and arrogant claims
of the French, but, through the influence of his counsel-
ors, finally preferred the latter alternative.
The name of the frigate was the Artimese, and she
was commanded by Captain La Place. This unhappy
interview betwixt the French and Hawaiians left the
impression on the minds of the citizens of Honolulu, both
native and foreign, that France will take the first rea-
sonable opportunity, to reduce the islands to subjection.
I
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CHAPTER V.
Journal consinued — Depanure from Honolulu — Slow progresa — Fresh breese —
Coast of Oregon — Old pilot — Captain dGlivera up the remel — Crossing the
fearful bar — Deep anxiety — Cast anchor in Baker's Bay — Rev. Daniel Lee —
Chenook Indians — Clatsope — Ascend the river — Fort George — Run agroiu.d —
Difficulty of ascending — Arrival at Vancouver — Meeting called — MMonariei
receive their appointments — Sent ofi* to their stations — First encampment in
Oregon — Ascending the Wallamette in cajtoes — Tuip Water — Portage — ClMin*
poeg — Horseback ride — Arrival at the Mission Station.
According to arrangements, on Tuesday morning,
the 28th of April, at nine o'clock, we were all assembled
at the United States Consulate, with many of our newly
made friends of O^aiu, who had endeared themselves to
us by their unwcciried kindness and hospitality, awaiting
the preparation of boats to convey us to the ship. Soon
all was in readiness, and taking an affectionate leave of
our attendants, we were quickly on board the Lausanne.
The winds were favorable, the sails were unfurled to the
breeze, and we moved slowly out of the harbor through
a Winding channel, which the God of nature has formed
through the mighty reef of coral nearly encircling the
island.
For several days after leaving Oahu, we were obliged
to run close upon the wind, and, consequently, made but
slow progress. Our course was north-east from the
islands to the mouth of the Columbia river, and conse-
quently the north-east trade was a head wind. So soon,
however, as we reached the thirtieth degree of north
latitude, a fresh breeze from the west wafted us on at
the rate of one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles
per day.
In addition to the usual subjects of interest at sea,
consisting of whales, sharks, porpoises, dolphins, alba-
•
M
86
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
*
•
1-
0!
troses, &c., the company were entertained, for a succes-
sion of evenings, by a course of lectures, delivered by
the Rev. Jason Lee, on the subject of the Oregon mis-
sion, embracing its first establishment, and the proper
'^ourse to be pursued to advance its future prosperity.
While thus employed, the winds of heaven were propi-
tious, and we were rapidly opproaching the coast of
Oregon. At ten o'clock on the morning of the 21st of
May, the western coast of North America, which is
washed by the great Pacific ocean, that land towards
which we had been directing our course for upwards of
seven months, presented itself before us. Cape Disap-
pointment appeared on our leeward quarter, and Point
Adams on our bow. Considering the direction of the
wind, the vessel could not have been placed more favor-
ablv for entering the mouth of the Columbia river.
Wjund and tide both favoring us, preparations were
immediately made for crossing the dreaded bar of the
Columbia. Captain Spaulding found an old sailor at
Oahu, who had spent some time at the mouth of the
Columbia, a number of years before, and who said he
was well acquainted with the channel across the bar.
This man the captain had taken the precaution to bring
with him, to act as pilot on entering the river ; and,
accordingly, on approaching land, the captain surren-
dered the vessel into the hands of the old pilot. The
latter went aloft, and issued his orders from the fore top
mast head. All was anxiety on ship board, as it was
cried by the man with the sounding line, "five fathoms
and a half," for we then knew that we were passing over
the fearful bar, and that very soon we should experience
,-he fate of a number of vessels, which, years before, had
pursued the same track but to rush to ine writable destruc-
tion, or, be quietly moored in the placid waters of the
bay, behind the projecting cape. Soon the water deep-
ened to seven and nine fathoms, and the captain observed,
" We have reason to congratulate ourselves on having
crossed the bar of the Columbia in safety, and are now
steering our course for Baker's Bay." And surely all
felt heartily to acquiesce in the sentiment, as we slowly
-♦
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
87
passed around the point of Cape DisaDpointment, and
dropped our anchor on American grouna.
The English barque Vancouver, lay at anchor in the
bay, waiting for a fair wind to put out to sea. So soon
as we anchored. Captain Duncan, from the barque, came
on board, and informed us that we had made at least
one " hair breadth escape," as we came within a cable's
length of running on to a sand bank; where the William
and Ann were wrecked a few years before. He also
informed us that he had just come down the river from
Fort Vancouver; that Rev. Daniel Lee, and Mr. W. H.
Wilson, who were members of the Oregon mission,
were at the fort wher. he left, and that the people gene-
rally were anxiously awaiting our arrival. A few hours
after we came to anchor, an Indian canoe appeared,
coming down the river, with a number of persons in it,
and seemed to be directing its course towards us. While
several miles off we could see, through the teleflSope,
that there was one white man, with about a dozen In-
dians, in the canoe, and when they approached so near
as to determine who we were, they set up a loud shout
for joy at our arrival. Soon they came along side, and
to our great satisfaction, we were saluted by the Rev.
Daniel Lee, who had left his station at the Dalls, and
come down the river to visit the Chenooks, and preach
to them. Though thirty miles above the mouth of the
river, yet he discovered our sail, as we passed over the
bar, and, supposing us to be the reinforcement expected,
he resolved to hasten down and ascertain the fact.
Rev. Daniel Lee is a nephew of the Rev. Jason Lee.
They had performed a perilous journey together across
the Rocky mountains; had endured together the trials
of missionary life in Oregon ; and as they had been
separated for more than two years, one remaining in
Oregon, and the other recrossing the Rocky mountains,
and then doubling Cape Horn, the circumstances of their
meeting were of no ordinary interest The sensations
realized cannot well be described. The uncle and
nephew embraced each other, and wept. Their tears
were tears of joy, mingled with grief — joy, that after
VOYAGE TO OREGON
80 long a separation; and the endurance of so many
hardships, they enjoyed the privilege of seeing each
other's face — joy, that a kind and merciful Providenct;
had preserved us during our long and tedious T^oyage,
and had brought us in safety to this distant shore — joy,
' uit the Lord had poured out His spirit in Oregon, and
that many of the Indians had been converted ; but grief,
that since their separation in Oregon, some of the tHo-
neers of the cross in this land of darkness, had been taken
from the scene of their labors and usefulness; a grief
mitigated by the consideration, that they died as the
christian dies, happy and triumphant.
Towards evdhing a number of Indians of the Chenook
tribe came on board, among whom were some of the
nobility, one of the principal chiefs, whose name was
Chenamus, and his wife, whom they called the queen,
being of the number. Most of them were very small
in size, and very poorly clad, some of them not having
sufficient clothing to cover their nakedness. The chief
had nothing on but a blanket, which he wrapped around
him, but the queen had on a calico dress, a neckerchief,
and a red woolen shawl. Soon they were reinforced
by the arrival of a band of Indians from the south side
01 the river, called the Clatsops, who were very savage
in their appearance, some of them being painted in the
most hideous manner. They collected together on the
fore part of the deck, and commenced singing and
dancing in the most fantastic style. Four persons en-
gaged in the dance, and as one got weary and retired,
another would step in and carry it on. They appeared
to er 'oy it exceedingly, and doubtless supposed that they
were affording us the highest gratification in celebrating
our arrival among them. Many of them continued on
board during the night, and though it was very cold,
some slept in their open canoes which lay along side the
vessel, with nothing around them. Their appearance,
as they lay shivering in the cold, was truly deplorable.
These, we learned, were slaves, and were not allowed
by their masters to come on the deck. Surelv, thought
we, if any human beings in the world neod tfie sympa-
H*
VOYAGE TO OREGON. W
thies of their fellow men, we have found them on
entering the territory of Oregon.
The day after we crossed the bar, we were obliged
to continue at anchor in Baker's Bay, on account of a
severe storm from the south-east, which prevented our
sailing up the river; but on the morning of tHe 28d, the
wind became fair, and we prepared to ascend the
majestic Columbia. A gentleman by the name of Bir-
ney, residing at Port George, and belonging to the
Hudson's Bay Company, came on board, and volunteered
his services as pilot from Baker's Bay, to the place of
his residence, the distance of thirteen miles. Weighing
anchor, we were conducted aJong a Ending channel
quite across the mouth of the river, and passed within a
short distance of Point Adams, where the principal
village of the Clatsops is situated. Crossing the mouth
of a bay lying back of Point Adams, called Young's
Bay, we came to anchor for the night, within a stone's
cast of Fort Greorge, otherwise known as the " far famed
Astoria, the New York of the Pacific ocean." •
Fort George consists of three small block-houses, one
of which is occupied by Mr. Birney and family, and the
others for purposes of trading. Here we went ashore,
and after examining the site of old Astoria, built a fire
by the side of a cold spring, and cooked and enjoyed our
supper a^n on " terra firma,^ where our table would
stand stiU. Weighed anchor on the morning of the
25th, and before a fine breeze, proceeded about one mile
and a half, and run the ship aground. All hands spent
most of the day in endeavoring to work off the vessel,
but could not succeed. The next morning we were
favored with a high tide, and succeeded in clearing the
bar, but had not run but a short distance before we
struck another bar with considerable violence, and, at
first, feared that if we ever got clear of it, it would be
with great difficulty; but the still swelling tide of the
next morning, again floated us, and sailing a short dis-
tance, again we ran aground, and were detained another
day. We concluded that, either the navigation of the
Columbia for vessels as large as ours, was exceedingly
00
VOVAOE TO OREGON.
i
difficulty or our pilot was ignorant of the channel. How-
ever, we succeeded, after running aground several more
times, in reaching that point of land on which Fort
Vancouver is situated, to which we had been looking
forward as the termination of our voyage to Oregon,
and where, by the cood providence of God, we were
permitted to cast ancnor the first day of June, 1840.
Dr. John McLaughlin, the superintendent of the
affairs of the Kadson's Bay Company, though a Catholic
himself, received us with much cordiality, and extended
to us the hospitalities of the place, so long as we should
find it convenient to remain.
Vancouver is the emporium of the Hudson's Bay
Company in Oregon. Tnis is the general depot for all
the goods brouffht to the country, and also for the furs
collected, until they are shipped for England.
Here we remained a number of days, receiving and
storing our goods ; but on the 13th of June, a meeting
of the members of the mission was called, by Rev. Jason
Lee^ to consult in relation to fixing the appointments of
the newly arrived missionaries. These took place as
follows : J. P. Richmond at Fort Nez Qualy, on Puget's
Sound ; J. H. Frost at Clatsop, on the mouth of the
Columbia ; W. W. Kone and G. Hines on the Umpqua
river, and A. F. Waller was left without an appointment
for the purpose of assisting in the erection of mills on
the Wallamette river. The lay members of the reinforce-
ment were principally located in the Wallamette settle-
ment, that being the place where the main business
operations were carried on. There being a physician in
tl-^ Wallamette settlement, Dr. J. h. Babcock was ap-
pointed at the Dalls, also H. B. Brewer as a farmer.
All the missionaries were immediately initiated into
the Oregon mode of traveling, in getting from Vancouver
to their respective appointments. Canoes were provided
for us, and we all scattered away ; some up the Columbia,
some down ; some up the Cowilitz, and some up the
Wallamette.
It was in the evening of the 14th day of June, that
Rev. A. F. Waller, Rev. W. W. Kone, myself, and our
season o
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
u.
t:
families, found ourselves floating on the surface of the
great Columbia, in two small canoes, on our way up to
the mission station in the Wallamette settlement, having
taken nothing with us but blankets, and provisions to
make us comfortable on our journey. It was in the
season of high water, and the bottom lands, along the
river, were all overflown. Conducted bv our pilots, we
crossed the main channel of the Columbia to the south
side ; and running our canoes in among the cottonwood
timber, we crossed a point of land which lies fifteen or
twenty feet above low water mark, but which was then
several feet under water, and coming to a kind of pro-
montory covered with a dense forest of fir, we ran
asliore and made our first encampment in Oregon. By
the aid of flint, steel, and powder, we soon had the forest
illuminated ; then the women prepared supper of fried
meat and boiled potatoes, bread, butter and tea, and
spread it out upon llie ground, where all partook of it
with great relish. Next our bedding was prepared, and-
after recruiting our fire, we prepared to sleep. The
roar of the wmd through the thick branches of the fir
trees, whose tali tops were waving gracefully over our
heads, the hoot of the large owl, and the howling of the
wolf, frequently broke in upon our slumbers, but the
morning found us unharmed. In preparing to leave
camp, the business of the morning afforded each of us
considerable amusement by our awkwardness, arising
from unacquaintance with this manner of living; but
we concluded that we should soon become initiated, and
make very good soldiers.
Taking to our canoes at six o'clock, on the 15th, we
proceeded a mile, and found ourselves in the Wallamette
river, having saved a few miles of rowing, by crossing
the point. Found the scenery along the river exceed-
ingly wild as we ascended, the shores rocky, and lined
with dense forests of fir, and but little land adapted to
cultivation. At one o'clock we arrived at the Wallamette
Falls, called by the Indians Tum Water. Here we found
about one hundred and fifty of the most filthy and dx •
graded looking beings in human shape, that our eyes
ever beheld. Surely, thought we, it will require the
■4
i
02
VOYAGE TO OREGON.
labor of many years to elevate these Indians from the
dep^h of their pollution into a civilized and christian
people. The fmlls are about thirty feet perpendicular,
oeautiful indeed, aifording almost unlimited hydraulic
privileces, yet the Indians held the place in unmolested
control. The Hudson's Bay Company, however, had
built a small block-houSe on the left bank, as we ascend
the river, for their accommodation, in passing up and
down. Here we were oblige^ to make a portage of
half a mile, which occupied us till nearly night ; and we
found it exceedingly fatiguing to carry all our things
over the rocks, for half a mile, on our backs. We had
accomplished it, however, at five oclock, and proceeding
up four miles farther, we made our second encampment
on Rock Island, having traveled but twenty-five miles
since morning. The weather being fine, we enjoyed
another comfortable night, and the following day, at one
o'clock, p. M., arrived at Champoeg, which is the lower
part of the settlement on the Wallamette river. The
mission station was sixteen miles above, and, according
to arrangement, horses were sent down to meet us.
They arrived at three o'clock, and at four all were
mounted, several of us taking children on before us, and
the cavalcade started off upon a gallop over the plains.
As we were well mounted, Mrs. Hines and myself took
the lead, and passing over the most delightful country
that we ever beheld, two hours and a half brought us
into the midst of three little log houses which stood on
the banks of the river, and known as the principal station
of the Oregon mission.
Here we arrived in safety on the 16th day of June,
1840, and were cordially welcomed by the missionaries
on the ground, and made as comfortable as their circum-
stances would admit.
Remaining two days in the family of Rev. David
Leslie, I then took possession of a small room in a house
about one milo from the station, built for a mission
hospital, where we again commenced keeping house,
and where I designed my family to remain until I had
performed an exploring tour through the country of the
Umpquas. -^ ,
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5 ^- ♦
CHAPTER VI.
Exploring tour to the vinpqua — PrvIiminariM — Departure — DeU|^tfut country ~
Encampment — Amuding incident — Fording river — Mountain La Beache —
Elli river — Umpqua fort — Indian ftffiit — Franehman in charge — Meeting with
the Indiana —Old chief's con feanion — Hostile Indiana — Danger of going among
them — Resolved to go — Voyage to the coast — Indians accompany us — Inte-
resting encampment — Indians on the coast — Meeting with them — Speeches
of the chiefs — Results of the meeting — Talk to God — Solicitude of our Pro<
tectress — Watcliiaf — Presents — Departure — Description of the country —
Return to the fort — Story of the Frenchman's wife — Dangers we bad escaped
— Perilous adventures of the mountaineers — Tour continued — Mountainous
country — Fording Elk river — Giant tree — Aromatic tree — Umpqua Indians —
Head chiefs ~ Shocking story — Burst of heathen passions — Difficulty with
guide — Settled — Fear of treachery — Confirmed — Request of We- We — Re-
fused — Warning — An Indian can be honest — Unhappy results of not trusting
him — Night — Lost in a forent — Sabbath — Indians again — Homeward route
— Fine country — Delightful scenery — Home.
Some time in the winter of 1837, before Rev. Mr.
Lee left Oregon to return to the United States after a
reinforcement, he visited the Umpqua tribe of Indians
for the purpose of ascertaining their number and situa-
tion ; but it being in that season of the year when it is
next to impossible to explore the country, in consequence
of the abundance of water which every where presents
Jtself in the way of the traveler, he could not extend
his own personal observations far, but was under the
necessity of depending for information concerning the
objects of his visit, upon the few Indians with whom he
came in contact on his route, and a Frenchman who had
charge of a trading post belonging to the Hudson's Bay
Company, and situated on the Umpqua river. Such was
the information given and the confiidence reposed therein,
that Mr. Lee, before going to the States, had come to
the determination that, if the mission was again rein-
forced, he would estabUsh a station somewhere in the
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TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
vicinity of Umpqua fort. Accordingly Mr. Kone and
myself were appointed to labor as missionaries among
the Umpqua Indians. As Mr. K. was a millwright by
trade, it was intended by Mr. Lee to retain him for some
months on the Wallamette, to assist in the erection of
the mission mills ; and that I should proceed and er.plore
the country, select a location for the station, and p epare
for the removal of our families.
Hearing reports from that country of a discouraging
character, Mr. Lee resolved to accompany me on the
tour, and satisfy himself with regard to the propriety of
carrying out his original design.
It should be understood that the Umpqua country lies
to the south of the Columbia river, about two hundred
and twenty-five miles. The river which gives its name
to the country, rises in that ridge of mountains which
divides the lower from the upper country, and after
running about two hundred miles, empties into the Pacific
ocean near the forty-third parallel of north latitude. It
waters quite an extensive country, as yet to white men
but little known. Having made arrangements for the
comfort and safety of our families in our absence, we
found ourselves prepared to start on our tour on the 18th
day of August, 1840. Our party consisted of Rev. Jason
Lee, Dr. Elijah White, myself, and an Indian guide,
whom we designated by the name of " Captain." Dr.
White, however, designed to accompany us no farther
than the Umpqua fort, and then return. Our mode of
traveling, of course, was on horseback; and, in addition
to our riding horses, we had three for carrying our bag-
gage, and four spare ones, that in case of the loss or
failure of any, we might not be left destitute. This is a
precaution indispensably necessary to be taken by all
who would secure their ultimate safety in traversing the
extended plains of this wild country. As this was the
first prairie expedition with which I had ever been con-
nected, it was necessary for me, at the outset, to learn
the peculiarities of the mode of traveling; and, as Mr.
Lee had performed two journeys across the Rocky
mountains, he was well qualified to be my instructor.
TOUR TO THE LIMPQUA
95
Watching Mr. Lee closely while he was packing our
bedding, provisions and cooking utensils, on the backs of
the horses, I soon observed that it required considerable
skill and practice to wind the lash rope around the pack
and the body of the horse, so as to secure the burden to the
back of the animal in case of fright, stumbling, r)r running
against any obstruction, all of which, in the process of
})inding the packs, it is necessary to guard against with
the utmost precaution. Mr. Lee having magnified his
office as our instructor, by packing the three horses
himself, we all mounted, and each man with his gun
athwart of the pommel of his saddle, our little cavalcade
put off, on a moderate gallop, across the beautiful and
fertile plain, lying in the rear and south of the mission
premises. At noon we arrived at a place called by the
Indians, Chemekete, where the Oregon mission have
commenced erecting mills, and where it is in contempla-
tion to establish the Mission Manual Labor School. This
place is ten miles up the Wallamette river from the old
mission station, and is one of the most delightful locations
in the whole valley. The fertile plains surrounding it,
the enchanting nature of its scenery, and the fine water
privilege aflforded by the beautiful rivulet that meanders
through it, render it a place of considerable future
importance. Having dined with the family of W. W.
Raymond, who is employed in forwarding the saw mill,
we proceeded on our course, being south, through a
country beautifully diversified with rising grounds, vary-
ing from the gentle undulation to the majestic hill, fertile
valleys, variegated with here and there a grove of a
species of red oak, and now and then a stately fir which
had braved the fury of a thousand storms. Occasionally
could be seen the fallow deer and prairie wolves, scam-
pering in almost every direction, as we passed along the
narrow Indian trail, which, in its serpentine course, led
us farther and farther from our habitation. At nightfall
we encamped near one of the tributaries of the Walla-
mette river, called " Santa Am's Fork." This is a fine
stream of water, being several rods wide, and coming
down from the mountains of the east, it is said to form a
96
TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
number of beautiful cascades, while the fine timber
adorning its banks, and the extended plains of arable land
on each side, hold out strong inducements to the emi-
grant to erect his cabin upon its fertile shores. How-
ever, the bottom lands along this river, though appearing
exceedingly fine at this season of the year, T/hen the
water is low, give evidence that, in the winter, they are
often overflown. Here we found a species of yellow
pine, similar to the Norway pine, it being the first I had
seen in the country, but we reposed for the night, under
the branches of a majestic fir, and our trusty horses
cropped the wild grass of the prairie around us, while we
slept. Six O'clock the next morning found us prepared
to resume our journey, and at twelve we had traveled
twenty miles, when we stopped for dinner, on one of
the numerous streamlets which water the Wallamette
valley.
Re-packing our animals, after resting two hours, we
traveled, in the evenings about ten miles, and encamped
for the night by the side of a small pool of water, in the
centre of a large prairie. The country through which
we passed during the day, was exceedingly fiat. Some
parts of it were quite low, and subject to inundation
from the rapid rise of the Wallamette river. The prai-
ries had been all overrun with fire a short time previous,
and it was with difficulty that we could find sufficient
feed for our horses. However, around the pool the
grass was so green that the fire had passed it by, and
this rendered it a suitable place to spend the night,
particularly for our animals. There was something
very peculiar about this pool. It embraced a superficial
area of some ten rods of ground, with no visible inlet or
outlet, and it was several miles from any other water,
though the water in the pool was nearly upon a level
with the surrounding land. It was also literally filled
with frogs, there being at least five to every square foot.
We spread our bed where the grass was abundant,
but soon after lying down we were disturbed by a some-
what novel circumstance. I began to feel a gentle stir
directly under my back, though for some time I made
we
TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
87
no mention of it, not yet deciding what it miffht be.
But as the effort beneath me continued as though some
living being was thrown into convulsions through suffo-
cation, I at length cried out that there was some living
creature under my blanket. The "Captain" understand-
ing me, exclaimed, " A snake ! a snake !" I sprang in-
stantly to my feet, seized my blankets, and scattered my
bed around the prairie, and, to the no small amusement
of our party, out jumped a large bullfrog, and made his
best leaps to get back into the pool.
August 20th. We arose in the morning invigorated by
repose, and traveling twenty-five miles, at one o'clock
we arrived at the place on the Wallamette river where
we designed to cross, our trail having been on the east
side of the river. In approaching the stream, we found
the trail exceedingly difficult, especially for our pack
horses, as it led us through a dense forest of cottonwood
and swamp maple, but at length we emerged from it in
safety, and found ourselves on the river's brink. Exa-
mining the ford, we found the river too deep, and the
current too strong, to admit of our crossing our pack
horses in safety, and discovering an Indian below us, in
his canoe, we beckoned to him to come up to us, which
he accordingly did. He appeared very shy at first, as
he was entirely naked, noi having so much clothing on
as an apron of fig leaves, but after a while we induced
him to take our things into his canoe, and carry them
across the river. Dr. White accompanied him, while
Mr. Lee, myself, and the " Captain," crossed over the
horses. The water was up to the animals' backs, and
the current so strong that we feared it would bear us
down; but, with the exception of getting thoroughly
wet, we gained the opposite shore without dilHculty.
Here we took some refreshments, and then continued
our way over a delightful plain fifteen miles in extent,
and at night stopped on the California trail, at a place
which, by the numerous fires which had been built
around, we judged was often used as an encampment.
This is the great trail extending through from Upper
TOUR TO THE UMPQUA
^ *
California to the Columbia river, and passes through the
valley of the Wallamette, on the west side of the river.
Friday, 21st. After traveling about twenty miles over
a rolling country, presenting almost every variety of
scenery, we halted for dinner on a small stream called
" Bridge river," on account of a log bridge having been
thrown across it, by some CaHfornia party. This stream
runs in a deep cut, and, but for the bridge, would have
been difficult to cross. In the afternoon we passed over
the mountain " La Beache," (Elk mountain,) which con-
sists of a vast assemblage of hills thrown together in wild
confusion, and covered with a heavy forest of fir and
cedar trees. The latter is the most stately and majestic
timber of the kind I have ever seen. Some of the trees
are from from ten to fifteen feet in diameter, and tower-
ing to an incredible height. On beholding them, one is
reminded of the scripture account of th ; cedars of
Lebanon. It required three hours to cross this mountain,
and as we descended it to the south, we found the fire
making sad havoc with the fine timber with which its
sides were adorned. In some places it raged so hard
along the trail, that it was quite difficult for us to pass;
but, urging our way along, we arrived at sun down at
Elk river, and camped on a beautiful plain on its south
bank.
Saturday, 22d. Leaving the California trail we took a
path that bore farther to the west, which followed the
direction of the Elk river. During the day we passed
over an exceedingly mountainous country. Some of
the hills were rocky and precipitous, and it was with
great difficulty that we were able to keep our balance
on the narrow path among the rocks, that, in its zigzag
course, marked our way up and down their almost per-
pendicular sides. Mr. Lee remarked that in crossing
the Rocky mountains, there was nothing that would
bear any comparison with the difficulty and roughness
of our trail through the Umpqua mountains. But urging
our way along, now plunging into the deep ravine, now
ficafing the high ledge of rocks, now climbing the preci-
TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
09
pitous mountains, now descending into the dark valley,
and fording Elk river over the slippery rocks not less
than five times, at two o'clock, p. m., we found ourselves
on the banks of the Umpqua river, opposite of the fort.
We stripped our horses of their packs and saddles, and
turned them loose to roam at large on the north side of
the river, until we performed a voyage to the coast;
and, crossing over in a canoe, we were kindly received at
the fort by an old Frenchman, having charge of it, by
the name of Goniea. We were made welcome to all the
comforts the place afforded.
This fort, or rather trading post, stands on the south
bank of the Umpqua river, on a Uttle plain comprising
about two hundred acres of land, thirty of which are
under cultivation. It is forty miles from the Pacific
ocean, and advantageously situated for the purposes for
which it was established, namely, the collection of beaver
and other furs from the Indians along the coast and in
the interior. The fort itself consists of three or four
little log huts built on three sides of a square, and
covered with cedar bark. These huts are stockaded by
poles set in the ground, and rising twelve feet high; and
at two opposite corners of the enclosure thus formed,
there are two bastions commanding all sides of the fort,
and containing means for the defense of the establish-
ment against the attacks of the Indians who are fre-
quently quite troublesome in this region. Not long
since the place was attacked by a band of savages,
outnumbering ten times the inmates of the fort, but after
a long fight, in which no one was killed, and but two or
three of the Indians were wounded, the latter were
compelled to retreat.
The Frenchman in charge, it is said, belongs to a
wealthy and honorable family in Montreal, and though
frequent eflforts have been made to reclaim him from his
wanderings, and induce him to return to his family and
friends, yet all have been unavailing. Such is the power
of habit with him that he now prefers a life but little in
advance of the wretched savages that surround him, to
all the elegance and refinements of the most civilized
I-
'I
100
TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
■|
I
li
,^^.'
society. He lives with an Indian woman whom he calls
his wife, and who belongs to a tribe that reside on the
coast, near the mouth of the Umpqua river.
Sunday, 23d. A good night's rest on a bed of Macki-
naw blankets, and a liberal supply uf boiled pork and
potatoes, furnished by our Indian hostess, wonderfully
recruited us after the fatigues of our journey. We
found no Indians around the fort except a small band of
twenty-five Calapooahs from the Wallamette valley.
These we collected in one of the huts within the stock-
ades, and Mr. Lee addressed them in the jargon of the
country, ' concerning the things which belong to their
peace, and the chief interpreted it to his people. They
seemed to be much interested, and were ready to promise
that they would all become good. The chief confessed
that his people had formerly been guilty of adultery, but
said he had stopped all that a year ago; that he allowed
himself to have two wives still, but that he meant to put
one of them away as soon as he returned. As we
expected to pass through his country on our return, we
engaged to meet him and his people on a certain day,
and give them another " talk."
Monday, 24th. Dr. White and the " Captain " left us
and returned to the Wallamette, and Mr. Lee and myself
started in a canoe, to visit the Indians at the mouth of
the Umpqua river. We had been informed by Mr.
Goniea that there would be great danger in our going
among them alone, and, indeed, he appeared to stand in
the utmost fear of them. Of their hostility to the
whites, and especially the Americans, we were ourselves
aware, as thev had in more than one instance attacked
them, and at one time in particular they cut off an entire
party of fourteen men who were coming through from
California to Oregon, except three persons, who fortu-
nately escaped to tell the story of the massacre of their
companions. But Providence seemed to favor our design
of going among them. On Sunday afternoon, a brother
of the Frenchman's wife, with a small party of Indians
from the coast, arrived at the fort, having come up the
river in a canoe. After having an interview with tnem
TOUR TO THE IJMPQUA.
lai
we proposed to the Frenchman that his wife, who, we
learned, was a relative of the principal chiefs of the
tribe, should take us under her protection, and with her
brother and his party, conduct us to their people. To
tliis the Frenchman consented, saying, " now the danger
is small, before it was great." According to arrange-
ment, at ten o'clock, a. m., we put out with our light
canoe into the rapid current of the Ump(]ua. We ran a
nmnber of narrow shoots where the current is at least
twelve knots an hour, and in some instances shot past
tbe rocks which projected into the stream within six
inches, with the velocity of an arrow. But our Indians
— seven in number — showed themselves to be on their
proper element by the astonishing dexterity with which
lliey ran the dangerous rapids with which the river
aljounds. Fifteen miles below the fort, the river'rushes
over a ledge of rocks in a number of narrow channels,
uiid falling about twenty-five feet in so many rods, forms
a tine salmon lishery. Here we found, crowded into
tour small lodges, about one hundred Indians, exceedingly
squalid in their appearance, and subsisting entirely on
tish. r
Our Indian protectress, who also officiated as inter-
preter, informed them who we were, and for what
purpose we had come among them, ' with which they
seemed to be highly pleased, saying it was good; and as
we passed on, nine of them, five men and four women,
jumped into a large canoe, for the purpop*^ of accom-
panying us down the river. % ^,
Having thus increased our company moi : than half,
we proceeded on our voyage, contemplating the barba-
rous appearance of both animate and inanimate nature
around us, until the gathering shadows reminded us that
night approached ; and running our canoes in along the
right hand shore, we at length found a place sufiiciently
broad, from the river to the base of the mountain, to
admit of our encamping, and here we pitched our tent
for the night Our Indians soon struck up two good
fires, one for themselves and one for us. Mr. Lee and
myself prepared our supper, our female friend providing
hi
•I'
11
1()2
TOUR TO THE UnTPQUA.
r
il
111
./»«
US with a choice piece of salmon which she had broiled,
and which, with bread, butter, and tea, constituted our
humble repast. Never did we partake of a supper with
a better relish. While we were enjoying it, our neo-
f)hytes prepared supper for themselves, \nd it was not u
ittle interesting, to one who was not familiar with sucii
scenes, to see them prepare their food. Their supper
consisted of fresh salmon, and a species of hazel-nut,
which is found in the country in great abundance.
Having made a suitable fire, they commenced the ope-
ration of cooking their salmon. This was performed in
the following manner : they all provided themselves
with sticks about three feet long, pointed at one end and
split at the other. They then apportioned the salmon,
each one taking a large piece, and filling it with splinters
to prevent its falling to pieces when cooking, and which
they fastened with great care, into the forked end of the
stick ; then placing themselves around the fire so as to
describe a circle, they stuck the pointed end of the stick
into the ground a short distance from the fire, inclining
the top towards the flames, so as to bring the salmon in
contact with the heat, thus forming a kind of pyramid
of salmon over the whole fire. One side being cooked,
the other was turned to the heat, and speedily the whole
was prepared for eating. Stones were then provided
for thy purpose of ci'acking nuts, and all being seated on
the ground, the eating process commenced. The extreme
novelty of their appearance, the nut cracking, the gene-
ral merriment, the apparent jokes, ready repartees, and
bursts of laughter, were sufficient to have excited the
risibilities of even a Roman Catholic priest, however
phlegmatic. And certainly a more jovial set of felloMs
than these sons of nature, I have never seen. They are
as untamed as the elk they chase over their mountains ;
and feasted upon their fish and nuts with as much seem-
ing satisfaction to themselves, as the most fashionable
and refined party that ever graced the gay saloon en-
joyed while regaling themselves from the most costly
viands.
Supper being over, we called the attention of the
more ro(
TOUR TO Tin: I MPQI A.
103
Indians, while we engaged in our evening devotions. I
sang a hymn, and then we both engaged in prayer, the
hidians all kneeling with us, and evidently manifesting a
peculiar interest in what was passing before them. And,
thought I, why should they not feel interested T Never
before had the death-like silence, which reigned along
this valley, been broken by the voice of prayer and
praise. The sombre shades of moral darkness, which
luid ever cast a melancholy gloom upon the people, had
never been penetrated by the rays ol gospel light. The
heralds of mercy who bring glad tidings of good things
to those who wander upon the dark mountains, had never
before set their feet on these hostile shores. And, while
the Indians surrounding us appeared to be sensible of the
nature and importance of our visit among them, the
circumstances were such as to create in us feelings of
the greatest solicitude. After our devotions were fin-
ished, Mr. Lee addresjed the Indians through our inter-
preter in relation to the objects of our visit, and they
listened as to a story calculated to excite the utmost
wonder. We all retired in quietness, rested in peace,
arose in safety, and proceeding on our way along the
widening Umpqua towards the great Pacific ocean, ar-
rived at noon among the Indians at the mouth of the
river.
We found but little land along the river which holds
out any inducements to emigrants, the country on both
sides as we approached the coast, becoming more and
more rocky and mountainous. Whatever the country
may be back from the river, it is certain that along the
stream it can never sustain much of a population. Hills
upon hills, and rocks piled upon rocks, characterize al-
most the whole distance from the Umpqua fort to the
Pacific ocean.
On arriving at the coast we found the Indians living
in three small villages, the larger being on the south, and
the other two on the north side of the river. The whole
number, as near as we could ascertain, amounted to
about two hundred men, women, and children, about
one-third of whom were absent in the mountains, for
104
Torn TO THE irMPQUA.
the purpose of gathering berries. It was thought best,
by our female guardian and adviser, to pitch our tent
some liair a mile distant from the larger village on the
south side of the river, near which she told us the chiefs
and their people would meet us to hold a " talk."
Though the news of our arrival quickly flew to all the
lodges, yet none of the Indians came near us, until wo
sent them word that we had come, and desired to see
them at our tent; then three chiefs and fifty-five of their
people, mostly men, came out to see us. Seating them-
selves in the sand in a semicircle in front of the tent,
they informed us, through our interpreter, that they
were " ready to hear what we had to say." Mr. i^ecj
then addressed them, describing the objects of our visit,
and telling them whence we came; how long it took us
to perform our voyage from our native land to their
country; that we had many friends at home who desired
us not to leave them; that a sense of duty had brought
us to their country to tell them about Jesus Christ; that
in coming to them, we had been exposed to a th(jusand
dangers, but. had been preserved in the midst of them all
by the "Great Chief above;" that we had heard much
about them, and that we were glad now to be permitted
to see them for ourselves, and become acquainted with
them. He then inquired whether they approved of our
visit, and whether they desired to be instructed.
After a few moment's consultation among themselves,
the chiefs, one after another, arose, and advancing to
within six feet of Mr. Lee, addressed him in substance
as follows, there being but little difference in their
speeches: "Great chief! we are very much pleased
with our lands. We love this world. We wish to live
a great while. We very much desire to become old
men before we die. It is true, we have killed many
people, but we have never killed any but bad people.
Many lies have been told about us. We have been
called a bad people, and we are glad that you have come
to see us for yourselves. We have seen some white
people before, but they came to get our beaver. None
ever came before to instroct us. We are glad to see
TOUn TO THE VMPQUA.
105
you; we want to learn; we wish to throw away our bad
things, and become good," They spoke very loud, and
their gestures were remarkably violent. Sometimes
they would rise upon tiptoe, with both hands stretched
high above their heads, and then throw themselves
forward until their faces almost touched the ground.
Returning to their seats in the sand, they told us that
they were now prepared to hear us more particularly.
According to Mr. Lee's request, I stepped out into
an open space and struck into lleber's missionary hymn;
and while singing the first verse, they all seated them-
selves on the sand, forming three-fourths of a circle
around us, and then with the most fixed attention,
listened to the remaining part of the hymn. We then
joined in prayer, all the Indians kneeling with us, and
invoked upon our enterprise the blessing of Almighty
God. Though our congregation was totally ignorant of
tlie nature of worship, yet the scene, to us, was deeply
affecting. Never before had they thus bowed, never
before nad they heard the %i^ce of prayer. We then
preached to them the gospel as well as we could in the
jargon of the country, giving them an account of the
creation of the world, the fall of man, the advent, suf-
ferings, death, resurrection, and ascension of Christ, to
save mankind from sin, from death, and from hell, all of
which was interpreted to her people by our female
friend. They appeared very solemn, and manifested an
ardent' desire to understand w:hat was said to them; but
we scarcely dared to hope that they . understood much,
though they appeared exceedingly interested. Yet we
cherished the fond belief that, for the first time in their
history, a few rays from the Sun of righteousness
pierced the gloom of the long and dismal night which
had hung around. The chiefs expressed their approba-
tion of what they had heard, saying it was all very good,
and that they had never heard such things before. They
all dispersed, and we prepared and took our supper.
After dusk they all returned for the purpose, as they
told us, of " hearing us talk to God " previous to our
going to bed. They built a large fire, and seated them-
5
106
TOUR TO THK UMPQUA.
il'il
,11
-^
selves around it. I then sang anomer hynm; after
which we both engaged in prayer. As they stjll lingered
around, Mr. Lee gave them another lesson from the word
of the Lord, after which they reluctantly scattered away
to their wigwams, leaving us to repose ourselves on our
bed of blankets, spread upon the sand. Mr. Lee slept
soundly during the night, but the scenes of the preced-
ing day, the circumstances of the night, and the fact
that we were lying at the mercy of those who had
proved themselves among the most treacherous of sava-
fes. produced such an effect upon my nerves, as to
estroy all iriqlination to close my eyes. I rt^/eatedly
drew aside the tent cloth, and cast a look around, and
in every instance observed that our protectress and her
brother, and an Indian who had lived among the whites,
but had returned ^o his people, were keeping up a large
fire in front of our tent, which threw its light ack into
the dense forest which lay in our lear. Sometimes they
were in earnest conversation, then they would pile on
the dry sticks until the flaijp yould ascend to the height
of ten feet, and enable th^n to distinguish ' very object
with^: a circle of twenty rods. This th y continued
durmg the whole night, neither of them f : a moment
attempting to sleep.
Wednesday morning arrived, none o^ the Indians
having, to our knowledge, shown anv di' position to mo-
lest us during the night. After our ore ifast was over,
knowing that we intended to leave so <oon as the tide
had risen sufficiently to admit of our pi^ising over the
sand bar above, they all collected again and seated
themselves on the sand, whi]^ w^e once more offered up
our fervent prayers to the " Desire of nations " in their
behalf. After prayer, they were again addressed a few
words ; and we were preparing to leave them, when
one of the chiefs stood up on his knees, and began to
speak. He said he was very glad that we had come to
see them ; that their hearts towards us were like our
hearts towards them ; that he wanted us to continue
with them another day, and tell them about God ; that
they had heard about us, and had been told we were a
bad pec
selves, J
was a li<
and thai
whethei
if one V
will let
will not
they w€
of lis w
ceeding]
Befor
them p]
the prir
made o
about ei
end, so i
constitu
a comp
above tl
was tie(
breast {
being 1
were di
friend,
but had
people.
Swiss 1
Havj
numbe/
this soli
the peo
ing the
mornin
paddle,
south s
ing one
Indian
was fas
cliff.
TOUR TO THE UMPQVA.
107
bad people ; that they were glad to see us for them-
selves, and were convinced that what they had heard
was a lie ; that they now believed us to be a good people,
and that they meant to be good also. We asked them
whether they would receive a man, and use him well,
if one were sent to them alone 1 They rephed, •* We
will let him come among us ; we will give him food, and
will not hurt him, but will do what he says. " When
they were informed that probably the next summer one
of lis would come and visit them again, they were ex-
ceedingly well pleased, and -said, " It is very good."
Before leaving, we visited their lodges, and one of
them presented us with a beaver skin, and the wife of
the principal chief -gave us a woman's dress, which was
made of cedar bark. The bark was strung out feie
about eighteen inches long, and woven together at one
end, so as to admit of being tied around the person, thus
constituting a kind of fringe. Two of these fringes made
a complete dress ; one was fastened around the body
above the hips, and hun^ dupii to the knees ; the other
was tied around the neck, ana formed a covering for the
breast and shoulders ; the arms and lower extremities
being left perfectly unencur>bered. All the womtn
were dressed in this manner with the exception of our
friend, and one who had been the slave of a Frenchman,
but had run away from her master, and returned to her
people. These were dressed somewhat in the style of a
Swiss peasant.
Havj-g fully satisfied ourselves with regard to the
number, disposition, and accessibility of the Indians in
this solitary region, we prepared to take our leave, and
the people all assembled to witness our departure. Giv-
ing them a few presents, at nine o'clock, on Wednesday
morning, carried forward by the stroke of the Indian
paddle, we were rounding a high bluff situated on the
south side of the mouth of the tJmpqua river, and form-
ing one side of a small bay, in the bosom of which the
Indian village we had just left was situated, and which
was fast disappearing behind the point of the projecting
cliff Crossing the mouth of the* river, which is about
i
108
TOUR TO TUK UMPQUA.
I 'i
^^B'
'I:;--
one mile wide, we stopped a few moments on the
north side to lay in a little provision, and gave ourselves
an opportunity to take some observations of the sur-
rounaing country. The land on both sides of the mouth
of the river presents a most forbidding aspect. On the
south the mountains extend quite to the waters of the
Pacific, and form a shore of the most bold and precipi-
tous character. On the north is a low sandy beach ex-
tending back from the mouth of the river about three
miles, in the form of a triangle, and appearing destitute
of vegetation, except a small growth of cotton wood.
From our brief stay at the place, and our limited obser-
vations, it was impossible for us to form a just estimate
of the whole country ; but it appeared to us, that little
importance can be attached to this portion of Oregon,
viewed with reference to either agricultural or commer-
cial pursuits. However, as there is a snug little harbor
in the mouth of the river, and a channel across the bar,
which will admit of the ingress and egress of craft,
drawing not more than Jypor eight feet of water, t^is
will probably be the outleFlbr the extensive and fertile
valley above.
Contemplating the probable period when the barbarism
of both animate and inanimate nature along this river
shall give place to civilization and Christianity, we turned
our backs upon the great Pacific, and by the combined
assistance of the Indian paddle and the Hood-tide, passed
rapidly up the river, and at night encamped at the sal-
mon fishery. Found the river to be affected by the tide
nearly twenty-five miles from its mouth. We ascertained
that the Indians at the falls are not of the tribe of those
on the coast, though they speak a similar language.
Spreading our blankets upon a shingle beach, we slept
without molestation though surrounded by treacherous
savages. Next day we started at an early hour, and
though having but fifteen miles to travel, yet on account
of the numerous strong rapids we had to ascend, and
the portages we had to make, we were till sunset in
reaching the fort. We were again welcomed by the
Frenchman, and refreshed with a supper of bread, made
VOtJR TO THE UMPQVA.
109
of pounded wheat, and roasted elk beef. Durine the
evening Mr. Goniea came to us considerably excited, and
warmly congratulated us on the safe guardianship his
wife had exercised over us in our absence. He said
that, in all probability, we should have been robbed of
all we had, if we had not lost our lives, had it not been
for the faithfulness of his wife and her brother. He
told us that one of the chiefs of the clan we hv^d visited,
was at the fort on our first airival, and saw us as we
came in. Learning that we designed to visit his people
on the coast, and excited with the utmost fear, he hast-
ened down the river, and reported many evil things
about us, intending thereby to instigate the Indians to
prevent our going among them. Mr. Lee had brought
a fowling piece with him, and had in his possession a
patent shot pouch. This was the thing that had alarmed
the chief. One story he told was that we had brought
medicine in a bag that Mr. Lee wore on his neck, for the
purpose of killing tTiem all off; and, that if we were
permitted to come among them, the fatal bag would be
opened, and they would all be destroyed. This exaspe-
rated many of tnem, and Goniea's wife told him that we
were in great danger the night we slept on the coast ;
that the Indians were lurking about us during the whole
night, seeking an opportunity, when it was dark around
our tent, to attack us ; but that she and her brother kept
a coitetant watch over us until morning. This explained
to me the circumstances of that night, already described.
But be this as it may, we were not, at the time, sensible
that we were particularly exposed ; and we felt our-
selves safe under the protection of our Heavenly Father.
Notwithstanding the seeming favor with which we
were received among them, the Indians along this river,
and especially those on the coast, have often proved to
be among the most treacherous of savages, and none
have ever been among them, but have learned that they
are capable of practising the most consummate dupli-
city. A story told by the gentlemen of the Hudson's
Bay Company, concerning what transpired on this river,
clearly illustrates the treachery and cruelty of these
no
TOUR TO THE UWPQUA.
J*-
'%
savages, as well as the perilous adventures of the Oregon
mountaineers.
A company of fur hunters, known by the name of the
Smith, Sublette & Jackson Company, was formed on
the frontiers of civilization, and the plan proposed to
accomplish their object was, to divide the company be-
twixt the three leaders, and the three portions to sepa-
rate, each taking a given quantity of the Indian territory
to explore. In this division. Smith was to* take the
country extending from the Platte river, by the way of
Santa Fe, to California ; thence turn north along the
Pacific ocean, as far as the Columbia river, and thence
back into the interior to join the other partners of the
company.
The country was in its wildest state, but few white
men having ever passed through it. But nothing daunted.
Smith and his company marched through to California,
and thence along the coast, north, as far as the Umpqua
river, collecting in their progress all the valuable furs
they could procure, until they had loaded several "pack
animals" with the precious burden. On arriving here,
they encamped on the border of the river, near the
place where they intended to cross, but on examination,
found that it would be dangerous, if not impossible, to
effect the passage of the river at that place. Accord-
ingly, Smith took one of his men and proceeded up the
river on foot, for the purpose of finding a better place
to cross. In his absence the Indians, instigated by one
of the savage looking chiefs whom we saw at the mouth
of the river, rushed upon the party with their muskets,
bows and arrows, tomahawks and scalping knives, and
commenced the work of death. From the apparent
kindness of the Indians previously, the party had been
thrown entirely off their guard, and consequently were
immediately overpowered by their ferocious enemies,
and but one out of the twelve in camp, escaped from
the cruel massacre. Scarcely knowing which way he
fled, this one fell in with Smith, who was on his return
to the camp, and who received from the survivor the
shocking account of the murder of eleven of -his com-
TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
Ill
gon
the
on
to
be-
pa-
ory
the
of
the
Kice
the
rades. Smith, seeine that all was lost, resolved upon
attempting nothing forther than to do his best to secure
his own personal safety, with that of his survivinff com-
panions, the Indians having secured all the fur, horses,
mules, baggage, and every thing the company had. The
three immediately crossed the river, and made the best
of their way through a savage and inhospitable country
towards Vancouver, where, after traveling between two
and three hundred miles, and suffering the greatest de-
privations, they finally arrived in safety.
Rehearsing the story of their wonderful esc^ipe and
subsequent sufferings, to the members of the Hudson's
Bay Company, the utmost sympathy was excited in their
behalf, and a strong pa?:ty was immediately fitted out to
go and rescue the property from the savage robbers, and
restore it to its surviving owners. The vigor and per-
severance of this party, were equal to the promptitude
with which it was fitted out. They proceeded to the
scene of blood, and after committing the mangled bodies
of Smith's murdered companions to the grave, compelled
the Indians to relinquish the property they had taken,
spread terror through the tribe, and returned in triumph
to Vancouver. All this labor and expense were bestowed
by the company gratuitously, and Smith and his friends,
while at Vancouver, were fed and clothed without money
and without price. In addition to this. Governor Simp-
son, who, at that time, was at Vancouver, proposed to
take Smith and all his furs to England, where he could
avail himself of the advantages of the London market,
and obtain a higher price ; but Smith repHed that he
had already been laid under too many obligations by the
company, and could not consent to receive this last prof-
fered favor. Accordingly he sold his furs to the com-
pany and went into the interior, where he found Sublette
conflicting in his trade with the interests of the company,
and induced him to leave that quarter. He then went
into the country of the Colorado, and collected conside-
rable property in furs and peltries ; but in crossing that
river, he was again defeated by the Indians, and lost all.
Subsequently, he returned to St Louis, and fitted oiit an
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TOUR TO THfe UMPQUA.
expedition to Sante Fe. But this was his last journey
among hostile tribes. Surrounded by the savage horde
that beset his path, he was again attacked by his relent-
less foe, and miserably perished.
Having listened to the story of the ill-fated Smith, we
prepared to continue our exploring tour farther into
the interior, and up the valley of the Umpqua river.
Through the assistance of Mr. Goniea, we procured an
Indian guide of the Umpqua tribe, whom the French
had designated by the name of " We-We," and who well
understood the jargon of the country, and could officiate
as our interpreter. The forenoon of Friday was spent
in finding our horses, and preparing our pack. All beinff
ready, betwixt twelve and one o'clock we started, with
our guide in advance. Passing over a number of hieh
hills, and fording the Umpqua three times, where tne
bottom was very rocky and the water up to our horses'
backs, we camped at night on the bank of a small rivulet,
under the shelter of a grove of fir. We had traveled
about twenty miles. The country traversed that day,
though mountainous, is tolerably well adapted to grazing
purposes, the land on the hills, and in many of the valleys,
being covered with a spontaneous growth of the most
nutritious grass. The timber grows less and less abun-
dant as we proceed up the river; some of the fir trees,
however, are ^nost magnificent. We measured c«ie with
our lasso as high up as we could reach, and found it to
be thirty-six feet in circumference. We judged it to be
three hundred feet high. In the lowest valleys next the
streams, grows a kind of timber, the like of which I
have never seen in any other country. It appears to
be of the laurel family, and is so strongly scented, that
the air in the groves where it is found, is strongly im-
pregnated with its aromatic odors. The elk abound in
this country, and afford a fruitful source whence the
Indians derive a subsistence. No Indians appeared
during the first day.
Saturday, ?J9th. Continued our toilsome way over
mountains, and through valleys similar to those already
described, and at noon arrived at the head quarters of
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TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
113
we
that portion of the Indians of this valley, distinguished
by the name of the river. Here the head chiet of the
Umpquas has fixed a temporally abode, and here one of
those circumstances recently transpired, which, though
of common occurrence in heathen countries, where
the vicious propensities of depraved human nature are
permitted to revel uncontrolled, are sufficient to freeze
the heart's blood, ^en to contemplate at a distance. It
is as follows: A report came to the ears of the chief of
the Umpquas, that his wife had been guilty of infidelity
towards her husband. This so enraged him, that, with-
out knowing whether the report was true or false, he
seized his musket, and went directly to the lodge where
his wife was sitting, and deliberately shot her through
the heart. " • ^ : , \ .
Soon after our arrival on the side of the river oppo-
site to the village, this chief, with the few men that were
with him, came over to see us. He delivered a long
speech, which was interpreted to us by " We- We," in
rnaking which, one of his first objects seemed to be to
justify the murder of his wife, and then to express his
gratitude that christian teachers had come among them.
While he was haranguing us, my attention was caught
away from his speech by a terrible burst of heathen
passions, which took place on the other side of the river,
among the lodges. In the absence of the men, the
women had a regular fight, scratching and biting one
another, and tearing each other's hair, and squalling
most frightfully. So tremendous was the explosion that
even the chief paused in the midst of his address, and
significantly remarked, '*^our women are hias masicha ;"
(very bad.) Such were the indications here, that we
came to the conclusion that the sooner we were out of
the place the better it would be for us, and so soon as
we had taken a little refreshment from our scanty stores,
we told our guide that we were ready to proceed; but
he positively refused to go any farther that day, saying
that it would be using his people very ill, and that the
chief would be very angry with us, if we did not stop
and sleep with them one night. The contention became
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TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
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quite warm, and we began to consider ourselves in rather
critical circumstances. If abandoned by our guide, it
was extremely doubtful whether we could find our way
back to the fort, or forward to the great valley of the
Umpqua. The whole country was rough and mountain-
ous, and there was no visible trail but a small portion of
the way.
But with all these difficulties, we showed that we were
fixed in our resolutions to leave this suspicious horde of
savages before darkness should favor them in the execu-
tion of any treacherous designs which they might enter-
tain towards us. Discovering that we were ready to
mount our horses. We- We became more pliable, and
said that he would proceed with us, on condition that we
would pay him an extra shirt, we having at first siven
him a shirt and a pair of pantaloons. Mr. Lee said he
would give him no more, but, to get rid of the difficulty,
I told We- We that if he would go, I would give him the
additional shirt so soon as we should reach the great
valley. Turning to his people. We- We addressed them
a few words in the Umpqua language, and then told us
he was ready to so. Accordingly, we left this group of
wretched beings about three o'clock, p. m., and galloped
swiftly over a little plain, towards a high mountain.
Three hours' hard labor in ascending and descending,
brought us to the foot of the mountain on the opposite
side, and passing through a dense thicket, we found
ourselves again on the bank of the river. We- We
brought out a well known Indian "whoop," and was
answered by another Indian, just below us, on the river.
Immediately four Indians came in sight, with a canoe,
and We- We told us we had better unpack our horses,
and put all our things in a canoe to be taken up the river,
a few miles beyond a place where the pass was very
rocky, narrow, and dangerous. But the strange conduct
of the Indians we had left, had excited our suspicions;
and supposing that those in the canoe were some of the
same party whom We- We had, perhaps, caused to come
up the river for no good purpose, we resolved to keep
what we had under our own eye as long as we could
TOUR TO THE VMPQUA.
115
We told the guide that we should keep our things on
our horses' backs. We- We hung his head, and tSd us
we would be sorry for it before we got through. We
proceeded, but found it as We- We had forewarned us.
Our trail lay along a frightful precipice which towered
far above us, and extended far below us, and in some
places was so narrow and broken that a miss-step would
nave precipitated us headlong on the rocks below, or
into the rushing waters of the Umpqua. In one instance
my own horse fell from ten to fifteen feet down the rocks,
but at length succeeded in gaining the trail without
receiving much injury. ^
But we were not destined to make the pass, withdiff
considerable difficulty. In passing the last dangerous
point, " old Pomp, " our pack horse, lost his footing, and
rolling down a rocky steep of some thirty feet, went
backwards into the Umpqua river. We had fastened
around his neck a long lasso, and the end of it remaining
on shore, we succeeded, by drawing it around a tree, in
raising and keeping his head above the water until We-
We had relieved him of his pack. While We- We was
at work among the rocks, where the water was up to
his neck, trying to relieve the horse of Ips burden, he
told us that we might have saved ourselves that difficulty,
if we had trusted to the honesty of aa Indian ; and we
ourselves began to suspect that our fears had been quite
groundless. It required our utmost effi^rts to keep the
horse from drowning ; but after we had relieved him of
his load, he managed himself a little better, and finding a
place which was not quite so steep as the one where he
entered the river, we succeeded, at that point, in getting
him on the rocky shore. All our bedding, provisions,
&c., were thoroughly soaked ; but gathering up what
was not spoiled, and putting some on the horses, and
carrying some on our own shoulders, we started on,
being informed by the guide, that it was not far to a fine
prairie. Night began to set in, and as we left the scene
of our disaster, we entered a dense forest of fir, and the
gloom continued to thicken around us until we were en-
veloped in total darkness. We were leading our animals
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TOUH T<f THE UMPQUA.
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by the bridle, and feeling our way among the trees, in
the midst of darkness, so dense that it was impossible to
see^a white horse, though within a foot of one's nose,
when we became so entangled among the logs, ravines,
and brush, that we found it was impossible to go either
forwards or backwards, to the right or to the left, and
colloquising a little through the darkness, we came to
the conclusion to tie our horses to the trees, and make
the best of the night we could. Having a few matches
in my pocket, and the leaves and limbs under my feet
being perfectly dry, I soon had the forest illuminated,
and then was disclosed to our view a most horrible place.
We sought for a spot on which to sleep, but could find
none level and large enough to stretch ourselves upon.
We must either beffd over the top of a knoll, or double
up in a ravine, or remain in a sitting or standing posture.
We preferred the second, so wrapping ourpelves in our
wet blankets and rolling into a hollow, we tried to com-
pose ourselves to sleep ; but the cracking of limbs by
the tramp of our horses, the howling of wolves, and the
screech of an owl, frequently disturbed our repose. The
morning sun, however, enabled us so to adjust our rather
disarranged ^airs that we could, quite comfortably,
prosecute our journey. Next day was Saobath, but we
could not remain where we were, and we proceeded
on a few miles, and came to a band of about thirty of
the Umpquas, with whom we tarried for several hours.
They behaved themselves quite orderly, and were anx-
ious to render us all the assistance in their power. We
preached the gospel to them as well as we were able,
and they said tney wanted very much to have a mission-
ary come among them. Not desiring to sleep in the
vicinity of their lodge, we made signs of wishing to
leave, and the old men came around us, of whom there
were several, and patting us on the shoulders, seemed
to express great attachment. But we concluded that
iheir love was not so ardent as to render it desirable, on
our part, to stop with them over night, and, as our pro-
vision was growing scarce, we decided to set our faces
towards the Wallamette valley. Gathering up the wreck
V
TOVR TO THK UMPQUA.
117
of our pack, we again mounted, and traveling about
twelve miles, encampeid on the bank of a beautiful rivu-
let which is one of the tributaries of the Umpqua. We
traveled during the whole day the distance of twenty-
five miles, over as fine a country as can be found in any
part of the world. An agreeable variety of hills, plains,
and groves of pine, fir, and oak, constituted scenery of
the most picturesque beauty, and the e^e was never
weary in gazine upon the ever varying picture. In ad-
dition to this, the soil is good, the grass abundant, and
the country well watered ; but as we proceeded up the
valley of the Umpqua, the timber became scarce. A
few pine on the hills, with a few scattering oak, are the
principal kinds. Though the country is now destitute
of. inhabitants, except the wild beasts, and a few savages
as wild as they, yet the day is not far distant, when it
will be teeming with a civilized and christian people.
The Indians inhabiting the Umpqua valley, from the
Pacific ocean one hundred miles into the interior, are
very few. All that we could find, or get any satisfac-
tory evidence as now in existence, did not exceed three
hundred and seventy-five souls. These live in several
different clans, and speak two distinct languages. They
would be favorable towards the establishment of a mis-
sion in their country, but seem to thuik that the greatest
benefit it would confer on them, would be to enable them
to sell their beaver and deer-skins for a higher price.
Temporal good is the sole object they would have in
view. The most of them, residing as they do on the
coast, are almost inaccessible, and the establishment and
support of a mission among them, would be attended
with immense expense. The best information we could
obtain, from the Indians and others, led us to the conclu-
sion that the time doubtless has been when the Indians
of this valley were vastly more numerous than at present.
The Umpqua tribe, but a few years ago numbering seve-
ral hundred, by disease and their family wars has been
reduced to less than seventy-five souls. Under the inap^
pression that tiie doom of extinction is suspended over
this wretched jrace, and that the hand of Providence is
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TOUB TO THE UMPQUA.
removing them to flive place to a people more worthy
of this Ssautiful and fertile country, we arrived at the
place of our encampment, and found ourselves again on
the ffreat California trail.
Having fulfilled his encasement in bringing us around
to this trail, our guide left us to return to his people.
Monday, boptember 1st. We quickened our pace
through a country well adapted to agricultural purposes,
and abounding in every variety of scenery ; and at noon,
havine traveled twentv-five miles, we stopped for dinner
on Elk river, at the place where, on going out, we left
the California trail. In the afternoon, we aj^ain passed
over the Elk mountain, and found that the nre was still
raging with increasing violence. A vart quantity of the
large fir and cedar timber, had been burned down, and
in some places the trail was so blockaded with fsdlen
trees, that it was almost impossible to pA)ceed; while
now and then we passed a giant cedar, or a mammoth
fir, through whose trunk the fire had made a passage,
and was still flaming like an oven. Every few momentfi
these majestic spars would come "cracking, crashing,
and thundering to the ground ; but while the fire was
thus robbing ^e mountain of its glory, we pushed on
over its desolated ridges, and at sun-down arrived on a
little prairie at its base, where we made our encampment.
Several times during the night we were awakened by
the crash of the falhng timber, on the mountain, which
sometimes produced a noise similar to thai of distant
thunder.
Tuesday, 2d. Homeward bound, at noon we arrived
in the WaJlamette valley, where, according to engage-
ment, we met the Callapooah chief. He had collected
about sixty of his people, and said that he had about
forty more. We remained with them four hours, and
endeavored to preach to them "Jesus and the resurrec-
tion. " Many of them were sick, and they appeared
wretched beyond description. Our bowels of compassion
yearned over them, but it was not in our power to help
them. Commending them to God, at four, p. m., we
pursued our way ; but finding no water, we did not
TOUR TO THE UMPQUA.
119
camp till eleven o'clock at night. We were then obliged
to strip our horses on the open prairie, and turn them
loose without water, and lay ourselves down upon our
blankets with our lips parched with thirst. Next morn-
ing, however, we found ourselves, like Hagar in the
desert, within a short distance of good water. Here I
roasted a duck for bur breakfast, which the Callapooah
chief had given us, and which we ate with neither oread
nor sauce ; but a cup of coffee, that " sine qua non " for
prairie traveling,. washed it down, and on the strength
of it, we traveled forty miles, during the day, over a
country of surpassing loveliness,, on account of its en-
chanting scenery and amazing fertility. Surely, thought
I, infinite skill has here been employed, in fitting up a
country which requires nothing more than a population
under the influence of the religion of Christ, to render
it a perfect paradise. The last nieht we encamped within
fifteen miles of our families and friends, and the next
day, Thursday, the 4th, we arrived at home in safety,
but found our families all prostrate with the ague and
fever. Having been constantly in a healthy exercise in
our absence, we returned in the enjoyment of good
health, and were consequently able to fender ourselves
useful in taking care of the sick.
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CHAPTER Vn.
Tour to Vaneourer — Reception at the ibrt — Preaching in the hall — Buaineea
completed — Expedient to keep warm — Cold weather ~ Difficult iiavigation —
The rapldfl — Forest encampment — Strange rieitor — AfTeeting intelligence —
Death of Her. James Ollej — My Mohican guest — Return honbe — Meeting —
Fruitless attempt to recorer a dead body.
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December 7th 1842. Left the Wallamette for Van-
couver, for the purpose of procuring supplies for he
Oregon Mission School, accompanied by five Indian
boys.
rroceeded on horse-back about twenty-five miles to a
place on the Wallamette river, called, by the French,
^^La Butte," this being the most convenient place to
land our supplies. Here, after having slept beneath the
wide spreading branches of a large fir tree, we took the
canoe which is kept by the mission above the falls of the
Wallamette, for the purpose of transporting goods up
and down the river, and proceeded to " Turn Water, "
that is, the falls. We left our canoe above the portage,
and taking a boat provided for us by Mr. Abernethy,
the mission steward, we continued on about fifteen miles
below the falls, and encamped one hour after sundown,
having rowed our canoe and Iboat during the day the
distance of thirty-five miles.
The night was very cold, but collecting a large quan-
tity of fuel, we were able to keep up a good fire during
the night, and in this manner kept ourselves comfortably
warm. Started the next morning as soon as it was day,
and, though for six miles we had to contend with the
strong current of the Columbia, we arrived at Vancouver
at two o^clock, p. M. I went directly to the fort, and
had an interview with James Douglass, Esq., one of the
fPOVtt TO VANCOUVfift.
1^1
commandants of the place, and ascertained that I should
be able to accomplish my business early on Monday
morning. I was received with all that courtesy and
hospitafity which usually characterize the gentlemen of
the Hudson's Bay Company. It was Saturday, and in
the evening I received a respectful invitation from Mr.
Douglass, to preach in the hall, the following day. Ac^
cordingly, after the usual church service was read, I
endeavored, to explain and enforce the inquiry of the
jailer — " What must I do to be saved ] "
On Monday morning, the 11th, having completed my
business, and prepared to return, we proceeded to our
boat, and found the Columbia river filled with ice. The
weather had been increasingly cold, and the ice came
down the river in large fields, and threatened, to put a
stop, for the time being, to the navigation of the stream.
However, it had not yet become very hard, and though
there was some danger in the attempt, yet we launched
forth into the stream, and breaking our way through the
ice with our setting poles, we at length succeeded in
getting safely into the mouth of the Wallamette.
This river being clear from ice, we proceeded up
about seven miles, and encamped under a high blun,
wtiich sheltered us from the piercing winds from the
north-Cc^^ t. The ground being frozen, the weather ex-
ceedingly cold, and, withal, a scarcity of bedding, I took
the following precaution to ensure a comfortable night :
I built a large fire where I designed to make my bed,
and after the earth became thoroughly warmed and
dried, I removed the ure a little distance, and plucking
some fir boughs, threw them upon the heated earth ;
then spreading my buffalo skin upon the boughs, I lay
down upon it, and with a couple of blankets over me,
slept comfortably during the night.
Next day at noon, we arrived at the falls, and on
Wednesday, the 13th, made our portage. At two, p.
M., we proceeded up the rapids above the falls, which,
at that season of the year, are very difiicult of ascent.
They are ascended by cordeling, and it is frequently
necessary to work for hours in the water aiuong the
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tOVR TO VANCOUVER.
I
rocks, in order to get up one boat load, an exercise any
tiling but agreeable when the merdury is nearly down to
zero. We succeeded, however, with much toiling, and
a severe wetting, in reaching the deep water above the
rapids, without any serious accident, arid at night en-
camped seven miles above the falls, in a dense forest of
fir trees. I had preserved a few matches from getting
wet, and succeeded, after awhile^ in striking up a good
fire, though the wood where we were encamped was
very wet. I cooked me a supper 'of fresh salmon, not
forgetting to make a good cup of tea; and after partak-
ing of my humble repast from my ground table, with
that peculiar relish which good hesuth and hard labor
always give to wholesome food, and offering up a tribute
of thanksgiving to Providence for the blessings of the
past, and invoking a continuance of his favors, I spread
my skins and blankets upon the ground, and reclined
myself to rest.
As I lay stretched upon my bed of skins before the
fire, musing upon the good providence of God, which
had been manifested in our preservation amid the dan-
gers to which we had been exposed in ascending the
fearful rapids, I was startled by tne voice of a man from
the river below us, inquiring, " What boat is that 1" 1
replied, it belongs to the Oregon mission. " Then," said
he, "I will come ashore." It wais ten o'clock at night,
and it was quite an uncommon thing for boats to remain
upon the river to so late an hour. Consequently, I felt
quite solicitous to know who the stranger might be. The
sound of his oars, as they fell upon the water, grew
louder and louder as he approached the shore, and in a
few minutes he was along side of our boat, to which he
fastened his small skiff. Clambering up the precipitous
bank of the river through the thick underbrush, the light
of our fire relieved me of some anxiety, as it shone upon
the face of a " half-breed " Indian, direct from the place
where I resided, which was forty miles above.
This half-breed was an educated man, and a sketch of
his history may be found below. After giving me th
gratifying intelligence that my own familv were well, he
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TOUR TO VANOOUVfitt.
128
inquired if I had heard the sad news. "What newst*
said I, " I have heard nothing sad." " Then," said he,
"lam the bearer of intelligence concerning the most
afflicting event that has ever transpired in our settle-
ment: the Rev. James Olley is no more" Intelligence
more unexpected could scarcely have been communica-
ted; and wnen the circumstances of the removal of Mr.
Olley from this stage of action were related, the effect
upon my mind was. quite overpowering. ->?
Mr. Olley was a local preacher in the Oregon mission,
and sailed from New York in the fall of 1830, with the
large reinforcement in the ship Lausanne. He was a
carpenter by trade, and after his arrival in Oregon, con-
tinued to serve the mission in that capacity, as he was
able. He was making preparations to build himself a
house, and desiring some better lumber than any he could
obtain in the vicinity of the mission for the purpose of
making window sash, he had employed a youne man by
the name of Eiken to accompany him up the Wallamette
river about twenty miles, where there was pine timber,
with the design of procuring a couple of logs and run-
ning them down the river to the mission saw-mill, where
they could be cut into boards to suit his purpose. He
proceeded to the pinery, and cutting two small sized logs
rolled them into the vater, but found that they were so
heavy they would n Jt float. He had designed to take
them in tow^ but finding that they would sink to the
bottom, he resolved upon this expedient, to raise them
to the surface, and lash a log to each side of his canoe.
All being prepared they entered the canoe thus encum-
bered, and committed themselves to the rapid and
treacherous current of Wallamette river. The weather
was exceedingly cold, as it had been for a number of
weeks previously, and the water in the river coming
down from the snowy mountains of the east, was as cold
as the ice itself.
As there had been but little rain during the fall, the
river was not high, but there are places in it at all stages
of the water, which are very rapid, and it requires great
skill and dexterity to run tnem in safety even with an
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TOttIt TO VANCOtJVaft.
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empty canoe. However, they proceeded down the
current about ten miles, without accident, Mf. Eiken
being in the stern, and Mr. Olley in the bow of the
canoe, when they came to one of the fearful rapids with
which the river abounds. At this place is a ledge of
rocks extending across the bed of the ctream, which
rises out of the water in one place, forming a small
island. The rapid commences a short distance above
this ledge, and where the water breaks over the rocks it
becomes exceedingly violent. Neither Mr. Olley nor
Eiken had ever passed up or down this part of the river,
consequently they were entirely ignorant of the dangers
of the place; but there was no alternative, they were
already in the strength of the current, and to make the
shore on either side was impossible. Consequently they
were carried with great violence on the rocks about
fifteen yards from the little island, and about forty yards
from the opposite shore. The bow of the canoe and logs
first struck the rocks, and the stern swung so violently
down that Eiken was thrown clear from the canoe into
the strongest part of the current. But, being young,
vigorous and active, he succeeded in making the shore
aoout three hundred yards below, but he was so much
exhausted through exertion, and benumbed by the cold,
that when he reached the shore he was scarcely able to
move; and while struggling in the icy water just before
reaching the place where he could gain a foothold on the
bottom, he was on the point of yielding to the fury of
the current, and giving • himself up for lost. But he
escaped to tell a more solemn tale concerning the fate of
his comrade. As soon as Eiken possibly could, he returned
to the place opposite where the canoe and logs struck,
and observed that Mr. Olley, having held fast to the raft,
and now being on one of the logs, was looking round as
if to contrive what course to pursue.
He called out to him and inquired, " what are you
going to dol" Mr. Olley made no reply. Probably
from the noise of the water rushing over the rocks, he
did not hear him. Eiken thought he might have been
bewildered* He directly sat down on the log and pulled
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TOtm TO VANCOUVER.
125
off his shoes and stockings, and threw them into the
river, keeping on his pantaloons, coat and cap. He then
deliberately plunged himself into the stream, and was
carried violently down the dashing current. Having
learned to swim in his youth, he kept his head above the
water for some time, and appeared to be nearing the
shore. Eiken pursued him down as fast as he could,
but could not keep up with him, such was the rapidity of
the current. As he was borne downward a large log
which extended into the stream, hid him from iSiken's
view. Previously to this, his motion in the water be-
came more irregular, and he appeared to have turned
himself on his back, and to have thrown up his hands
as in the attitude of prayer, or calling for help. He had
then doubtless given up all hopes of making the shore,
and was committing nirtiself into the hands of his God.
Be this as it may, when Eiken succeeded in getting
round the log so that he could command a view of the
river below, our beloved associate, friend, and father,
had passed forever from the view of mortals.
These facts coming to my ears under the circumstan-
ces already described, for awhile weighed down my
spirits, but a few hours of refreshing slumber after
midnight, quieted my nerves, and the next morning found
me prfepared to resume my toils and exposures.
My visitor in camp, continued with me for a couple of
hours, aiid after refreshing himself from my almost ex-
hausted stores, observed that he was in a great hurry to
get down to the mouth of the Columbia river to secure
a piece of land which still remained unoccupied, and this
explained his running in the night. He had been in the
country about two years, and as there had been many
reports in circulation concerning him, I resolved to avail
myself of the opportunity thus afforded me to obtain
from himself some facts in relation to his history.
" I once, " said he, " saw a book which was entitled,
* The last of the Mohicans ; ' but I could tell the author
a different story from that." In answer to my inquiries,
I learned from* him the folbwing particulars. He was
born in New* Engfohd, and his father being a white
r, p-j
136
TOUR TO VANCOUVER.
mail) he was therefore a proper yankee. His mother
was an Indian woman, a relic of the Mohican tribe, and
he was therefore a Mohican. He grew up to manhood
in company with a brother of his, received a tolerably
food English education, and was known by the name of
. L. M. Cooper. He and his brother, sick of the pre-
judices existing against them in their own country, re-
solved upon going to sea. They accordingly shipped on
board a trading vessel bound to the Pacific, and after a
voyage of several months, found themselves collecting
Spanish hides, on the coast of California. Not liking the
business very well, and finding themselves in a country
where they would Uke to remain, they resolved, when
the vessel was about to leave, to desert her, and take up
their residence in California. They succeeded in their
designs, but ha<i^not been long in the country before J.
L. M. Cooper found himself involved in Sjerious difficul-
ties with the Californians. He treated some of them
roughly, and they accused him also of using too great
liberties with their property, particularly their horses,
and finally became so enraged against him as to resolve
upon taking his life. There was a Spaniard in particular,
who, he believed, would take the first opportunity to
carry this threat into execution. He accordingly secre-
ted himself in a jungle, where his wants were supplied
by his friends, and where he designed to wait until a
company of trappers and hunters belonging to the Hud-
son's Bay Company, then in California, should start
across the country for the Columbia river. By joining
this company he hoped to escape the vengeance of the
Spaniards. Betrayed by one in whom he had placed
confidence, he would have lost his life but for a double
betrayal. His place of concealment had been discovered
by his determined foe, and the night fixed upon in which
he was to die. In his turn Cooper s enemy was betrayed,
and Cooper was informed that on a certain night he must
prepare for a deadly encounter.
5 The night arrived ; Cooper built a larse fire ; mac'.e
up the form of a man ; put his cap on his head, and laid
it down before the fire as if to sleep. He had loaded
TOHK TO VANCOUVER.
187
his unerring rifle during the day, and examining it a little
by the light of the fire to see that the percussion cap
was in perfect order, he retreated** few steps from the
fire, and hid* himself in a place he had prepared for that
purpose, in a dense thicket. At length ne heard the
stealthy footsteps of the vengeful Spaniard, as he cau-
tiously approached his victim, whom he supposed he saw
stretched in sleep before the fire. The Spaniard cast
his dark eye along his rifle several times, and then would
venture a Httle nearer, to make a surer aim. At length,
dicky cracky bang! went the rifle, and the report seemed
to linger long amid the darkness of the night, and three
balls had pierced the slumbermg image before the fire.
At this moment Cooper stepped out from his conceal-
ment ; brought his rifle deliberately to his face, and the
report rising upon the midnight air, the Spaniard was in
eternity. The ball had pierced his heart. ?
The company of hunters were already scores of miles
on their way to Oregon, and Cooper, securing one of
the best horses he could find, perhaps without renderinff
an equiyalent, soon placed himself beyond the reach of
his enemies, on the south side of the Snowy mountains.
This is Cooper's version of the story. Another is this :
that he deliberately murdered a Spaniard in a gambling
affray,^ and then escslped from California with the com-
pany above mentioned, upon a stolen horse. Be this as
it may, the hour of midnight had arrived when my Mo-
hican guest had finished his story, and then rising fiom
the ground, he buckled his belt, from which dangled a
large butcher-knife, a little tighter around him, and
thanking me for his supper, said, " I must go. " Splash,
splash, splash, went the oars, as he glided away from
the shore, and was lost amidst the surrounding dark-
ness.
On Thursday, the 14th, arrived in safety at "La
Butte, " and landed our goods. I sent back the Indian
boys with the canoe to the falls, to get a load of salmon
and molasses, remaining myself with the goods over
night, and sleeping between two large roots of a fii
tree. . ■n«.:¥&:"
Ids
TOt)R TO VANCJOUVBIl.
ji"
On Friday, according to arrangefment, a team was
sent to meet me at the Butte to receive the soods, and
a horse to convey nie home, where I arrived in safety
at nine o'clock in the evening, after an absence of eight
days. Found my family in good health, but the neigh-
borhood wore a gloomy aspect. One of its prominent
members, had, in a most afflicting manner, been called
away, and all appeared to mourn, but not without hope.
Sunday, 17th. Preached to a number of the mission-
aries and settlers, from the words of the Evangelist,
** And beginning to sink, he cried, saying. Lord, save
me. "
,0n Monday, the 18th, in company with Rev. Jason
Lee, procured a canoe, and a number of persons to assist
in rowing it, and about sundown started up the river for
the purpose of etamining the place where the sad catas-
tropne, before related, transpired, and of searching for
the body of our friend and brother Olley. We proceeded
up the river about two miles and encamped for the night.
Next morning continued slowly up the strong current,
examining every nook, corner, and place where we sup-
posed it to be possible for a body to lodge, and were
encouraged to believe that we should succeed from find-
ing one Mackinaw blanket, two coats, one bear-skin, and
one paddle, all of which belonged to Mr. Eikerf. At
one o'clock, p. m., we arrived at the place where the
fatal disaster occurred, and found that the current con-
tinued e^xceedingly strong about three-quarters of a mile
below the place where the canoe struck the rocks. The
river then widens into a kind of basin, broad and deep,
and, judging from those places where it can be seen,
with a very rough bottom. We examined the place as
minutely as possible, but no vestige of the bocfy could
be discovered. This was the tenth day after the acci
dent. Fatigued with the constant exertions of the da}^,
at dark we drew our canoe ashore ; cooked our supper
upon the shingle beach, and cast ourselves down upon
our blankets, to rest for the night. Repeating our ex-
amination the neitt morning, with as little success as the
day previous, we came to the conclusion, however debir-
iiiiB
TOUR TO VANCOUVER.
129
0U9 we might be to rescue the body of our friend from
a watery grave, it would no more be seen until that day
should arrive when the seas, and the rivers also, shall
give up their dead. As we descended the river towards
the place of our embarkation, this passage of holy writ
cheered our otherwise drooping spirits : " If we believe
that Jesus died and rose a^ain, even so also them which
sleep in Jesus, will God bring with him. "
I sup-
were
I find-
and
At
the
■^Ir
n
\je i^i■^^■-K^ » -a'lww' w
:l:
f y(
fit ' r I •/ ' . f. V n •••
", -A u- :■[ \^4'i 'ytf ':*'
i '!-:.« ,C
CHAPTER VIIL
Sj-.v1'
^ 4
Another tour — Rock Island rapids — The Jesuit — Stormy encampment — Return
— Hospitality — Srory of our host — Mr. Cornelius Rogers — Party increase —
La Butte — Lonely Sabbath — Arrival home — Mr. Rogers and party — Meet-
ing at the hospital — Indian Messenger — Sad ti.lings — Great bereavement —
Esq. Crocker — Call to civil duties — Thomar McKay — Great rain - Estate
of Mr. Rogers — Ruturn — Great fresloi — Damages — Safe arrival home.
January 16th, 1843. Left home in company with L.
H. Judson, for the purpose of performin^^ another trip to
Vaneouver. We took a light canoe belonging to Mr.
Lee, and shot out of a little cove which runs up within
a half mile of our house, into the strong current of the
Wallamette, and the water being high, we g^'ded down
with great rapidity, and at seven o'clock, p. m., encamped
on a high bank on the left hand side of the river, having
run the distance of forty miles.
Tuesday, the 17th, lieing l^ivored with a good moon,
we started, at five o'clock, and at daylight run the Rock
Island rapids in safety. This place is considered danger-
ous at the present stage of water. Some accidents,
though not of a very serious character, have recently
happened here. Not long since a Jesuit priest, by the
name of Blanchet, was passine up the river in a canoe
manned with Indians and half-breeds, and loaded with
mill-irons, as he was making arrangements to erect mills
in the French settlement above. Arriving at this place,
they attempted to ascend the rapids ; but in doubling a
point of rocks, around which the water rushed with
great violence, they were borne down with fearful force
to where they were in danger of being drawn under an
immense raft, lying in the river. They struggled in vain
to govern their canoe, and being greatly alarmed, in their
eagerness to secure it, it was capsized, emptying them-
TOUR TO VANCOUVER.
ISl
selves^ mill-irons, and all into the river. Some of them
struggled lon^ in the water, but finally succeeded, some
one way, and some another, in getting safe to land,
happy in the consideration that the loss they had sus-
tained could possibly be repaired. Though the followers
of the "Padre" were sanguine in the belief that he
possessed the power of working miracles, yet he has
never been able to raise his mill-irons from the bottom
of Rock Island channel.
Proceeded on our journey, and at sunrise arrived at
the falls, and took breakfast with our good friend, George
Abernethy, Esq. At eleven o'clock, continued our voy-
age, though with the prospect of bad weather. At
twelve it became quite cold, and began to rain and hail.
It continued storming without intermission, during the
afternoon. This rendered it extremely disagreeable
traveling, but there was no alternative ; so we continued
to ply the paddle, though iced with the falling sleet, until
it began to grow dusk. Arriving at a small promontory
covered with fir timber, twenty miles below the falls,
we landed, and commenced making preparations for a
stormy night. We were thoroughly drenched with rain,
though, as good luck would have it, we had preserved
our hre-works from getting wet. The storm beat upon
us with violence, but we were twenty miles distant from
human habitation, and had no choice ; we must prepare
to make ourselves as comfortable as possible durmg the
night, though our prospects were exceedingly gloomy.
The first thing to be done was to kindle a fire, no desir-
able task when every thing is as Wet as rain can make it.
However, selecting a place at the leeward of two large
firs, that we might be the more sheltered from the wind
and storm, after about half an hour, and when patience
had performed "her perfect work," we succeeded in
kindling a small blaze, Which by extreme care we soon
increased to a comfortable fire.
Having prepared our evening*^ recast, we partook of
it with a keen relish, while the large drops from the
spreading brandhes of the fir^trec^, as they v^^re shaken
with the Wind, fell in shoWers upon us.
182
TOUR TO VANCOUVKK.
m%
Supper beinff over, we managed partially to dry our
blankets and skinS) and spreading them upon the wet
ground, we lay ourselves to rest. I spread an umbrella
over my head to shelter it from the large drops from the
trees and the rain and sleet from the clouds, and, de-
spite the storm, slept soundly until six o'clock in the
morning.
Next day proceeded on to Fort Vancouver, and the
following day accomplished our business and prepared
to return.
Thursday, 19th. Left Vancouver in the morning, and
after a day of hard toiling in a continued storm of snow
and rain, arrived, late in the evening, at the house of
Richard McCary, about five miles below the Wullamette
falls. The night was excessively cold and stormy, and
we were pleased to be sheltered beneath a friendly roof.
Our host had spent the prime of his life in ranging the
Rocky mountains, as a hunter and trapper, and enter-
tained us with anecdotes of his hair-breadth escapes
from the the hostile Sioux and Blackfeet. At one time,
he, with seven other Americans, ventured far from the
general rendezvous of the hunters, in the country of
the Blackfeet, for the purpose of trapping beaver. The
country was entirely destitute of timber, except here
and there a small bunch of bushes, which grew in the
swails. They pitched their tent on the banks of a small
rivulet, on the open prairie, within a little distance of
one of these thickets ; designing, if they were attacked
by the Blackfeet, to retreat to the thicket, and there de-
fend themselves and protect their property.
One morning, as they went down to the stream to
examine their traps, McCary being in advance of the
rest of the party, a troop of Blackfeet warriors came
dashing over a rise of ground, but a short distance in
front of them, numbering, as they supposed, two or three
hundred. As the Americans wheeled and ran towards
their tent, the Blackfeet poured a volley of musket balls
after them. McCary fell upon his face to the ground ;
a ball had entered the back side of his neck, and come
out at one of his cheeks. No bone being broken, he
soon
TOUR TO VANCOUVER.
188
^
the
soon recovered his senses, but as he could not instantly
move, he expected to feel the scalping knife passinc; ovei
his skull bone ; but the Indians were kept at bayl)y his
seven comrades, who, by this time, had secured their
rifles and ammunition. Firing a round or two, and see-
ing some of the Indians fall, to their astonishment they
saw McCary, whom they supposed to have been shot
dead, rushing towards them to join them in their retreat
to the thicket.
Here they continued the fight, the Indians with great
bravery venturing up very near the thicket ; but their
musket balls and poisoned arrows took effect only upon
the bushes and logs which formed the fort of the Ameri- '
cans ; while the latter scarceh discharged a rifle but
that an Indian was seen to lick the dust. The Blackfeet ;
finding that they could not destroy the Americans with- ;
out losing too many of their men, gave up the contest ;
and after securing their dead and wounded, and taking -
the property of the Americans, consisting of their tent, '
blankets, furs, traps and horses, they gave the shrill war '
whoop, and disappeared. After dressing M cCary's
wound as well as circumstances would admit, the trap-
pers turned their faces back towards the rendezvous,
where, after many days of suflfering, they all arrived in
safety. McCary, not relishing such adventures, and
fearing that the next bullet might not be so merciful as
to shun the vital organs, resolved to leave his dangerous
business ; and marrying a Nez Perse, he abandoned the
Rocky mountains forever.
Our entertainment with this story far exceeded the
refreshment we received the remaining part of the night,
by sleeping on the bare floor. ** " -
Next morning proceeded to the falls, where we con-
tinued during the day.
Saturday, 21st. Left the falls at twelve, m., in com-
pany with two other canoes, and arrived at " La Butte "
one hour after dark, cold, hungry, and worn out with,
fatigue. Mr. Cornelius Rogers was in one of the canoes,
on his way up to the settlement to get his wife and her
sister, a little girl two years of age. Mr. Rogers had
184
TOUR TO VANCOUVER
III
"!■ - I
.M
k
entered into business at the falls, and having been mar-
ried but a few months, had not yet commenced keeping
house. Moving up and dowrn the river is, for the want
of other means, done in canoes, always a dangerous
mode of traveling. The three canoes contained about
twenty. persons, and all slept at the " Butte;" and though
the nignt was cold, many lay upon the ground without
covering.
On Sunday morning, the 22nd, Mr. Judson and Mr.
Rogers, being entirely out of provisions, left camp on
foot, and proceeded to the mission, where they arrived
in the evening, hungry and nearly exhausted. Having
a few remnants of food left, I jesolved to remain in camp
during the Sabbath; and, to make myself as comfortable
as Dopibie, I collected a quantity of wood and bark, and
building a large fire under the lee of the lofty furs that
line the banks of the river, and being left entirely alone,
spent the day in reading and meditation. Sunday night
there was quite a fall of rain and sleet, and though I
slept alone in the forest, and in the morning found that
ice had collected in my hair, yet, by the blessing of
Providence, I received no injury. At five o'clock on
Monday morning, I left the ■** Butte" for my place of
residence, where I arrived' at noon, having traveled the
distance of twentv-five miles.
On Thursday, the 2nd day of February, Mr. Cornelius
Rogers left the settlement with his family, consisting
of his wife and her little sister, to remove to the falls,
where he expected to settle. Wm. W, Raymond, a
member of the Oregon mission, residing at the mouth of
the Columbia river, had come up with the large mission
canoe that would carry about three tons, for the purpose
of taking back supplies for the station; and not having
enough to load the canoe himself, he proposed to take
Mr. Rogers and his effects down to the falls. Mr.
Rogers gladly accepted of the offer; and as Dr. Elijah
White, sub-agent of Indian Affairs in Oregon, and Esq.
Crocker, late of Lansingville, Tompkins Co,, N. Y., were
desirous of visiting Clatsop, they had obtained the privi-
lege of accompanying Mr. Raymond down the Columbia
TOUR TO VANCOUVBR.
1S5
river. These all repaired to the river's side, apparently
in high spirits; embarked on the ill-fated craft; the
Indians plied their paddles dexterously, and they glided
away from the sight of (heir friends on the shore, upon
the smooth surface of the treacherous element
Sunday, Feb. 5th, I preached at the Hospital to a few
of the missioi]^arieS) some of whom had been the subjects
of severe affliction for a great share of the time since
they had been in the coqfftry, I endeavored to encour-
age them from the woA of St Peter, " Tlunk it not
strange concerning the fiery trial which is to try you,
as though some strange thing happened imto you,
but rejoice, inasmuch as ye are partakers of Christ's
sufieripgs." The sufferings incident to our residence in
a heathen land, and the disposition with which we should
bear them, were the subjects of the discourse.
The services had just been brought to a close, and I
was about taking my leave to return to my family, ten
miles up the river, whea an Indian, almost exhausted
with running, came into Dr. Babcock's, where I had
stopped a few moments, bearing a small package of let-
ters. The runnaig of the Indian, the number of letters,
the season of the year,, and the e^orminess of the day,
all conspired to excite our fears, and create a presenti-
ment within us, that some unusual occurrence had taken
place. I broke the seal of my letter from George
Abernethy at the falls, and, most shocking to relate, the
first words that, met nvy eye were as follows : m, j. u
^* Dear Brother : —
I have barely time to say that the mission canoe
went over' the falls yesterday evening with Mr. and
Mrs. Rogers, Aurelia, and 'Squire Crocker and two
Indians, We started immediatelv out with the mission
boat, and reached within thirty yards of Mr. Rogers
before he sank to rise no more.' - ''-
It appears that they proceeded from the place of em-
barkation in safety, until they arrived at the head of the
rapids, above the cataract Here they all got out of the
canoe, Which they let down the rapids by a r^e, and
proceeded on foot down to a bluff rock which projects
\u
i']
%
n
136
TOUR TO VANCOUVBB.
=<-
out into the stream, and is but a few steps from the place
of landing. Here they all got into the canoe a^ain
except Mr. Raymond and three Indians, who remained
on shore, for the purpose of holding on to the rope which
was fastened to the canoe to enable them to drop below
the point of rocks in safety. They passed the point, and
brought the cano3 along side of a large Jog which th,e
high water had carried in along Ihe «hore, and which
was used as a kind of wharj^ The instant the canoe
struck the log, Dr. White stl^ed one foot on it, and
leaning towards the shore, held on to the canoe with the
other loot, but before another one could step on the log
the current took the bow of the canoe, which was up the
stream, and in an instant they were drawn into the
strongest part of the current. Mr. Raymond and -the
Indians exerted themselves in vain to- hold on to the rope;
they -were drawn into the river, and forced to let go, to
save themselves. All efforts were vain, all hope was
lost. At this perilous moment two Indians sprang from
the canoe, and darted like lightning through the rushing
flood, and gained the shore. As the canoe approached
the awful verge, Mr. Rogers threw himself upon his
knees before his wife, who remained in her seat, holding
her little sister in her lap. For a moment all was still
except the rushing waters, then a wail was> heard above
the 'roar of the angry flood — they had made the fatal
plunge. Some of their bodies were seen a short tifne,
floating beiow the falls, but before they could -possibly
be approached with a boat, they had all sunk inta their
watery graves. Thus terminated the mortal career of
Esq. Crocker, Cornelius Rogers, his wife and her Httle
sister, and two Indians. The remains of the first two
were subsequently recovered, and committed to the
earth; the others have never been found. If by some
awful convulsion in nature the whole city of New York
were to be submerged beneath the waves of the Atlantic
ocean, the shock to the State could not be greater than
was: felt in the colony of Oregon, when the mission
canoe, with her precious cargo, went over the falls.
This «wful <lispensation of Providence wrapped the
whol(
lie.
TOUR TO VANCOUVER.
187
whole country in gloom, and indeed there were many
circumstances which combined to render it truly afflicting.
Mr. Rogers had forme i \y been a member of the
Presbyterian mission in the upper country, and was re-
garded as a very efficient missionary ; but becoming
discouraged with the prospect there, he had asked aiH
obtained a discharge from the mission, and for some time
had made it his home in the Wallamette settlement. He
had adopted Oregon as a place of permanent abode, and
consequently asked and oDtained the hand of Satira Les-
lie, eldest daughter of Rev. David Leslie, though she
was but fifteen years of age. When Mi. Leslie took
his departure from the country to the Sandwich Islands,
and perhaps to the United States, the September pre-
vious, Mr. Rogers accompanied him down to the mouth
of the Columbia river, in the brie Chenamus, Mr. Leslie
having with him his entire family. It consisted of five
interesting girls, he having buried his wife but a short
time before. When the vessel was about ready to sail^
and bear Mr. Leslie and two of his daughters away, the
marriage of Mr. Rogers with Satira was duly solemnized
on board the ship, as she lay at anchor in baker's Bay.
Dr. J. P. Richmond officiated on the occasion. It was
arranged that Mr. Rogers and his wife would take back
to the Wab*»mette the two youngest daughters of Mr.
Leslie, ana take care of them until Mr. Leslie could
provide for them in some other way, while the remaining
two were to accompany their father to the Islands, and
Derhaps to the States. Accordingly, they thus separated
in Baker's Bay, about the 1st of September, 1842, fondly
indulging the expectation that, after a separation of a
few months, or years at most, they would again meet,
and spend many happy years in each others' society.
But an inscrutable Providence ordered it otherwise.
From the time that Mr. Rogers returned with his
important charge from the mouth of the Columbia river,
to the period of the fatal voyage down the Wallamette,
he had been variously, though usefully employed ; and
desiging to spend his days in Oregon, his feelings and
interests were bound up in the country. He was justly
*6
fit
138
TOUR TO VANCOUVER.
regarded as one of the most useful men it contained, and
consequently his sudden removal was considered as a
great loss to the rising settlement. His youn^ and
blooming companion was not only every way worthy of
her husband, but the darling of a fond and doting parent,
and beloved by all that knew her. She was at my house
but a short time previous to her leaving the settlement
to attend her husband to the falls, and mformed us that
she designed to take her youngest sister, Aurelia, a child
two years old, with her, and leave the other, Helen,
four years old, with Mrs. Gray. But for this arrange-
ment, all three would have gone together ; but Helen
Uved to bear to her afflicted parent the melancholy
tidings of the awful death of his eldest and youngest
daughters.
Esquire Crocker had been in the country but a short
time. He performed the journey across the mountains
for the benefit of his health. Liking the country better
than he anticipated, he had come to the conclusion to
send for his family and establish himself in Oregon ; but
by one stroke of Providence his designs were forever
frustrated.
Having been appointed by the authorities of the coun-
try to secure and appraise the property of the late Mr.
Cornelius Rogers, the principal part of which was at the
falls, I started for that place on the 9th of February, in
company with Mr. W. H. Gray. Traveled ten miles,
and stopped at Dr. Babcock's, who was the Judge of
Probate, to get our instructions, and continued with him
during the night. Next morning at daylieht, proceeded
on horseback towards Champoeg, but as there had been
a fall of snow the day previous, and the rain was then
falling in torrents, it was almost impossible to make
headway.
As we urged our way along, we found the streams
and ravines so swollen, that the few bridges that had
been made, were either carried away or afloat. How-
ever, by fording some of the streams where the water
covered the saddles, and swimming others which were
not fordable, we succeeded in getting to Champoeg, the
TOUR TO VANCOUVER,
189
distance of sixteen miles, at one o'clock, p. m., thoroughly
drenched. As it continued to rain violently during the
afternoon, we concluded to stop until morning.
Spent the night in a house or hut occupied by Charles
Roe, an American, who was absent with his family from
home. The wife of this man is the daughter of Thomas
McKay, who was the son of the unfortunate man of the
same name, who perished on the Tonquin, when she was
blown up on the north-west coast. Her mother is a
woman of the Nez Perce tribe. She is the sister of the
three McKay boys who accompanied the Rev. Jason
Lee from Oregon to the United States, in 1838. Her
father has recently discarded the old Nez Perce woman,
her mother, to whom he was never formally married,
except after the Indian custom, and. taken to himself a
young half-breed, who becomes his lawful wife under
the sanction of a Roman Catholic priest
Rested as well as we could during the night on a
naked plank, rose early in the morning, the rain pouring
down with increasing violence. But our commission
was one of urgency, so, turning horses looie upon the
prairie, and borrowing a canoe, we struck qkbA into the
dashing current of the Wallamette. Already the banks
of the river were full, and the rapidly increasing flood
was rolling onward with fearful fury towards the Pacific,
bearing upon its bosom immense quantities of floodwood,
ever and anon undermining a large tree upon the shore,
which would fall with a tremendous crash into the roar-
ing flood; but keeping our cockle-shell craft in the centre
of the stream, and carefully avoiding coming in contact
with the numerous logs floating upon its surface, we
proceeded down the distance of ten miles in about one
hour. Fearing to attempt to run the dangerous rapids
of Reck Island, we rowed our canoe into a little eddy
some distance above, and fastened it to some trees. We
then took our baggajje on our backs, and proceeded on
foot towards the falls, distant eight miles. A number
of streams crossed our path, but passing some on logs,
and wading through others, we arrived there at three
o'clock, p. M.
m
:>•{
140
TOUR TO VANCOUV3R.
Sunday, 13th. I preached to about twenty Americans
of different ages, from the invitation of Christ to those
who labor and are heavy laden, and rejoiced in the con-
sideration that there is rest in Christ.
Monday, 14th. Attended to the duties imposed upon
me in relation to Mr. Rogers' estate, in connexion with
W. H. Gray arid Robert Shortess. Found the estate to
be worth fifteen hundred dollars, and the liabilities to
amount to seven hundred. Ascertained that the heirs
of Mr. Rogers reside in Utica, State of New York.
Tuesday, 15th. Having accomplished our business,
we left the falls at two> i*. m., and returned to our canoe,
where we encamped Tor the night. The river had con-
tinued to rise until it was higher than it had been known
for thirty years, and we knew it would be almost impos-
sible to ascend with our canoe, yet there was no alter-
native. The banks were overflown, and we were obliged
to pull ourselves up the river by the bushes and trees on
the "hore, as, the moment our canoe was outside the
the bushes, in spite of the combined strength of bix men
with their paddles, she would run astern. Toiling for
seven hottrs, without cessation, except to take two rac-
coons out of a hollow tree, where they had been driven
by the flood, we found that we had ascended three miles
only, and being above the mouth of Pudding river, we
concluded to ^^ cache ^^ our canoe in the bushes, and try
the rest of the way on foot.
We found ourselves in a dense forest, but striking a
bee line towards the south-east, after traveling some
miles we struck the trail leading from the settlement to
the falls, and at dark arrived at the house of a French-
man near the Butte, and about three miles below Cham-
poeg.
Having no provision, I procured of the Frenchman a
supper of fried venison, and a cup of tea, for which,
with the privilege of furnishing a supper for ten thousand
fleas, he charged me one dollar. It was the first bill of
the kind I paid in Oregon, the people generally being
quite hospitable.
Next morning procceeded to Champoeg and found our
TOUR TO VANCOUVER.
141
irusty horses not far from where we turned them loose.
The water had risen to an amazing height ; farms were
swept of their fences, and farmers suffered heavy losses
in grain, the water rising several feet deep in some of
their barns. Thomas McKay had recently built a large
grist mill, and an old gentlemen by the name of Canning
was tending the mill. In the morning when he awoke,
as he slept m the mill, in the second story, the mill was
standing in the centre of a large lake. Some persons at
a distance, supposing that Canning must be in a perilous
condition, procured a canoe, and sailing high over fields,
fences, logs, &c., soon arrived at the mill, and running
their canoe into the window of the second story, found
Canning perched upon a high box, in one corner of the
mill, awaiting some one to rescue him from his danger.
No essential damage was done the mill, but several hun-
dred bushels of wheat were lost. The flood coming so
suddenly upon the valley, the herds on the bottom lands
had not time to make their escape. Horses, cattle, hogs,
&c., were swept away and drowned.
This was a high flood, but from the appearattoe of the
country, I am persuaded that it is subject to stm greater
inundations.
Recovering our horses, we left Champoeg in the after-
noon, and arrived at our homes the following evening,
relieving our families from the painful anxiety into which
they had been thrown for our safety in consequence of
our exposure to the fiood.
*Si
11
rfi
ti^
<■( T ■(■ >
I » I'
,^' \-
.|i
>4i
CHAPTER IX.
•1,
', <:t!, '"i-t
Panic — Ind w.n troubles — Tour to the Interior — CauMa — Precaationa -• Excitement
increasea — Mr. Brewer's letter — The Sub> Agent — Expedition reaolved upon —
Opposed by Dr. McLaughlin •— Departure — A aquall — Ascent of the Columbia
— Mount Hood — Romantic scenery — Sabbath encampment — Reflections —
Remarkable rocks — Cascades — How formed — Indian tradition confirmed —
La Dallas — Canasisiia — Negotiation — De Shules — John Day — Sabbath Re-
flections — Arrival at Dr. Whitman's — Interview with the Kayuse chiefs —
Excursion — Adventure of Mr. Perkins — Party proceeds — Snake river — Red
wolf— Laperai — Accident — Grotesque exhibition — Temperance training —
Rev. Mr. and Mrs, Spaulding — Return to Dr. Whitman's — Interesting negotia-
tion—Closing feast — Ilomoward — Story of the Walla-Walla chief — Peter
Ogden — Arrival home.
<'i' ■■■ -■ ' ■ ■ ■ ^ •' '
April 14. This settlement has been thrown into a panic
by intelligence which has just been received from the
upper cotiiitiry, concerninff the hostile intentions of the
Kayuse, Nez rerce, and Walla- Walla Indians. It appears
that they have again threatened the destruction of the
whites. Some time in October last, Indian report sjid
that these tribes were coming down to kill off the Bosto.i
people, meaning those from the United States. This
intelligence produced considerable excitement at the
time, and induced the sub-agent of Indian Affairs to go
directly to the upper country and ascertain the truth of
the report, and if possible settle all matters of difficulty.
On arriving among the Indians, he ascertained that the
report was not without foundation ; but entered into such
arrangements with them as appeared to give satisfaction.
Thomas McKay contributed much to allay the excite-
ment among them, and in connexion with the sub-agent,
induced the Nez Perces to adopt a code of laws, and
appoint a head chief and inferior chiefs, sufficient to
carry the laws into execution. It had been the policy of
the Hudson's Bay Company to destroy the chieftainship,
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
143
cut the diflferent tribes into smaller clans, and divide
their interests as far as posssible so as to lyeaken them,
and render them incapable of injuring the whites, by pre-
venting them from acting in concert. But the sub-agent
adopted a different policy. The individual appointed to
the high chieftainship over the Nez Perces, was one
Ellis, as he was called by the English, who, having spent
several years in the settlement on the Red river, east
of the mountains, had, with a smattering of the English
language, acquired a high sense of his own importance ;
and consequently, after he was appointed chief, pursued
a very haughty and overbearing course. The fulfillment
of the laws which the agent recommended for their
adoption, was required by Ellis with the utmost rigor.
Individuals were severely punished for crimes which,
from time immemorial, had been committed by the
people with impunity. This occasioned suspicions in
the minds of the Indians generally, that the whites de-
signed the ultimate subjugation of their tribes. They
saw in the laws they had adopted, a deep-laid scheme of
the whites to destroy them, and take possession of their
country. The arrival of a large party of emigrants
about this time, and the sudden departure of Dr. Whit-
man to the United States, with the avowed intention
of bringing back with him as many as he could enlist for
Oregon, served to hasten them to the above conclusion.
That a gr^at excitement existed among the Indians in
the interior, and that they designed to make war upon
the settlement, was only known to the whites through
the medium of vague report, until a letter was received
from H. K. W. Perkins, at the Dalls, in which he informed
us that the Wascopam and Walla- Walla Indians had
communicated to him in substance the following inform-
ation : that the Indians are very much exasperated
against the white " in consequence of so many of the
latter coming into the country, to destroy their game,
and take away their lands ; that the Nez Perces dis-
patched one 01 their chiefs last winter on snow shoes, to
visit the Indians in the buffalo country east of Fort Hall,
for the purpose of exciting them to cut off the party
I;
-t4
f!
144
TOUR TO THB INTERIOR.
II
that it is expected Dr. Whitman will bring back with
him to settle ,the Nez Perce country ; that the Indians
are endeavoring to form a general coalition for the pur-
pose of destroying all the Boston people : that it is not
good to kill a part of them, and leave the rest, but that
every one of them must be destroyed. This information
produced a great excitement throughout the community,
and almost every man had a plan of his own by which
to avert ♦iie impending storm. In the estimation of some,
the Indians were to be upon us immediatelv, and it was
unsafe to retire at night, for fear the settlement would
be attacked before morning. The plan of the agent was
to induce men to pledge themselves, under the forfeiture
of one hundred dollars in case of delinquency, to keep
constantly on hand, and ready for use, either a good
musket or a rifle, and one hundred charges of ammuni-
tion, and to hold themselves in readiness to go at the call
of the agent to any part of the country, not to exceed
two days travel, for the purpose of defending the settle-
ment, and repelling any savage invaders. This plan
pleased some of the people, and they put down their
names ; but many were much dissatisfied with it, and
as we had no authority, no law, no order, for the time
being, in the country, it was impossible to tell what
would be the result, if the Indians should attempt to
carry their threats into execution.
April 14th. Information was brought to the settle-
ment from the Klackamas tribe of Indians, who live three
miles below the falls of the Wallamette, which served to
increase the excitement occasioned by the reports from
the interior. It appears that an Indian of the Molala
tribe, connected with the Klackamas Indians by marriage,
stole a horse from a man by the name of Anderson, and
when asked by the latter if he had stolen his horse and
rode him off, answered, " Yes, I stole your horse, and
when I want another one I shall steal him also." To
this Anderson repUed, " If you stole my horse you must
pay me for him." " Yes," said the Indian, " I will pay
you for him, take that horse," pointing to a very poor
horse which stood near by, with one eye out, and a very
TbVR TO THE INTERIOR.
145
sore back. Anderson replied, " That is a very poor horse
and mine was a very cood one; I shall notlai|ie him, and
if you don't bring Inm back I will n^ort ^jfOu to Dr.
White." "I am not afraid of Dr. White," said the
Indian, " let him come if he wants to, and bring the
Boston people with him; he will find me prepared for
him."
Anderson not being able to effect a settlement with
the- Indian, immediately reported him to the agent,
whereupon the latter wrote to a man at the falls by the
name of Campbell, to take a sufficient number of men
armed with muskets, and ao very early in the morning
to the Indian camp, and take the horse-thief a prisoner^
and bring him up to the falls. Accordingly, Campbell
procured five men, and went to the camp as commanded,
but found thirty or forty Indians painted in the most
hideous manner, and armed with muskets, bows and
arrows, tomahawks, and scalping knives, and determined
at all events to protect the horse-thief, and drive back
those that should come to take him^ Campb&H rushed
on to take the rogue, but met with such resistance from
superiority of numbers, and finding that the enterprise,
if urged forward, would terminate in bloodshed, if not
in the loss of all their lives, sounded a retreat, and extri-
cating hknself from the Indians, returned to the falls.
He communicated the results of his attempt to Dr.
White, and the Doctor started off immediately in com-
pany with G. W. Le Breton, resolved to capture the thief
and bring the tribe to terms.
April 17th. The excitement still continued, former
reports having been confirmed, and all were engaged in
repairing guns, and securing ammunition. A report was
in circulation that Dr. McLaughlin refused to grant sup-
plies for any consideration to all those persons who sub-
scribed the memorial praying the Congress of the United
States to extend jurisdiction over Oregon. If this be so,
the American population, as nearly all signed the memo-
rial, will not be able to obtain ammunition, however
necessary it may be, as there is none in the country
except what may be found within the stockades of Van-
ittr
'(!!
•lifc
146
TOUR TO THS INTKRJOR.
%
couver. I think, however, that the report is false
Report sai^furtherfnore, that the Klilcitat Indians are
collecting l^th|f: back of the Tuahty plains, but for
what purpose is not known. The people on the plains,
consisting of about thirty families, are quite alarmed.
There is also a move among the Calapooahs. Shoefon,
one of the principal men of the tribe, left this place a
few days ago, and crossed the Wallamette river, declar-
ing that ae would never return until he came with a
band of men to drive off the Boston people. He was
very much offended because some of his peqple were
seized and flogged, through the influence ot Dr. White,
for having stolen horses from some of the missionaries,
and flour from the mission mill. His influence is not
very extensive among the Indians or we might have
much to fear. The colony is indeed in a most defence-
less condition; two hundred Indians, divided into four
bands, might destroy the entire settlement in one night.
In the evening of the 17th, Dr. White arrived at my
house bringing intelligence from the falls. He and Mr.
Le Breton attempted to go to the falls on horseback, but
in trying to ford Haunchauke river, they found the water
so deep that they were obliged to swim, and the Doctor
turned his horse's head, and came out the' side he went
in; but Le Breton, being the better mounted of the two,
succeeded in gaining the opposite shore; and having the
Doctor's letters in his possession, continued -on to the
fails. The Doctor returned to the settlement. Le Breton
returned the following day, and brought information
from the five men who attempted to take the Indian who
had stolen Anderson's horse, that soon after their retreat
the Indians became alarmed and broke up in great haste;
but before they left, they informed Anderson that the
horse they had stolen from him was worn out and good
for nothing, and tying a good horse to a tree near An-
derson's house, they told him that he must take that and
be satisfied. They then hurried away, saying that they
should not be seen in that region again. It was ascer-
tained that the Klackamas Indians had nothing to do with
the stolen horse; that it was a band of the Molalas, the
very sam
before, ai
weeks,
house, w
one man
grim lool
On th<
settlemei
brings th
This let<
much of
up witho
tie does
toward t
themselv
fear. A
tober, U
Indians
tenth of
excitem*
dians, h(
among 1
minecTtc
The g
ton peoj
them to
White 1:
understs
great e
siderabl
other w
them t(
people.
Walla 1
state of
would
to meei
probab:
to tak(
opinior
TOtm TO THE INTERIOR.
14*5^
ilse
are
for
ainS)
ned.
fon,
ce a
clar-
h a
was
vere
very same rascals thai stole a horse from me two yearf
before, and after having him in their posscision several
weeks, brought him down within a iew miles of^pv
house, where they encamped, and where I went with
one man and took him from the midst of more than fifty
grim looking savages.
On the 20th of April, a letter was received in the
settlement, written by H. B. Brewer, at the Dalls, which
brings the latest intelligence from the infected region.
This letter states that the Indians in the interior talk
much of war, and Mr. Brewer urges Dr. White to come
up without delay, and endeavor to allay the excitement
He does not inform us that the Indians design any «vil
toward the whites, but says that the war is to oe between
themselves, but that the Boston people have much to
fear. As the Doctor, in his visit to the interior last Oc-
tober, left an appointment to meet the Walla- Walla
Indians and the Kayuses, in their own country, on the
tenth of May, and believing that a great share of the
excitement originated in a misunderstanding of the In-
dians, he came to the C'Onclusion at all hazards to go
among them. At the solicitation of the agent, I deter-
minea to accompany him on the expedition.
The great complaint of the Indians was that the Bos-
ton people designed to take away their lands, and reduce
them to slavery. This they had inferred from what Dr.
White had told them in his previous visit; and this mis-
understanding of the Indians had not only produced a
great excitement among them,-^ut had occasioned con-
siderable trouble betwixt them and the missionaries and
other whites in the upper country, as well as influencing
them to threaten the destruction of all the American
people. Individuals had come down from fort Walla-
Walla to Vancouver, bringing -information of the excited
state of things among the Indians, and giving out that it
would be extremely dangerous for Dr. White to go up
to meet his engagements. Their opinion was, that in all
probability he and the party which he might think proper
to take with him, would be cut off. But it was the
opinion of many judicious persons in the settlement, that
..JL
«4
148
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
-y-
"S^
th« welfare of the Indians, and the peace and security
of the whites, demanded that some persons qualified to
nefl|tiate with tiv^ Indians, should proceed immediately
to tne scene of disaffection, and if possible remove the
cause of the excitement by correcting the error under
which the Indians laborecl. Accordingly, Dr. White
engaged twelve men besides myself, mostly French Can-
adians who had had much experience with Indians, to go
with him; but a few days before the time fixed upoo to
start had arrived, they all sent him word that they had
decided not to go. They were doubtless induced. to
pursue this course through the influence of Dr. Mc.
Laughlin, and the Catholic priests. «•
When the day arrived for starting, we found ourselyes
abandoned by every person who had engaged to go,
except Mr. G. W. Le Breton, an American, one Indian
boy, and one Kanaka. With the two latter the Doc-
tor and myself left the Wallamette settlement on the
twenty-fifth of April, 1843, and proceieded on horseback
to the Butte, where we found Le Breton in waiting for
us. He had provided a canoe and a few pieces of pork
and beef for our use on the vbgage.
Here we met a letter from Dr. John Mc Laughlin, at
Vancouver, discouraging us from our undertaking in
view of the difficulties and dangers attending such an
expedition; but we had counted the cost, and were not
to be diverted from our purpose, though dangers stared
us in the face. We supposed that if the Indians enter-
tained any hostile intentions against the whites in gen-
eral, there could be no better way to defeat tneir
purposes than to go among them; convince them that
they had no grounds of fear; and that the whites, instead
of designing to bring them into subjection, were desirous
of doing them good. Prevented by one thing and
another from setting sail, on the night of the twenty-
SQventh we slept on a bank of sand at the Butte, and
next day proceeded in our little canoe down to the Wal-
lametie falls, where-we continued until the twenty-ninth.
Here we received another package from Dr. Mc Laugh-
lin, giving us information that Rev. Mr. De Merce, a -Ca-
wisp
tOt/R TO THE INTKRIOR.
140
tholic priest, had just come down from the upper country,
bringing hitelligenee that the Indians are only incensed
against the Boston people; that they have notliing agflhst
the French and King George people; they are not mad
at them, but are determined that the Boston people shall
not have their lands, and take away their liberties. On
receiving this intelligence from Mr. De Merce, Dr.
Mc Lau^hlin advised the Frenchman who had engaged
to go with Dr. White, to have nothing to do witn the
quarrel, to remain quiet at home, and let the Americans
take care of themselves. He alse expressed, in his let-
ter, the opinion that all the people should remain quiet,
and in all probability the excitement among the Indians
would soon subside.
Not seeing sufficient reason to change our course, on
the morning of the 28th, we left our hospitable friends
at the Falls, and continued our course down the Walla-
mette towards Vfmcouver. At noon we had sailed
twenty miles, and stopped for dinner within five miles of
the mouth of the Wallamette, on a low piece of ground,
overgrown with luxuriant grass, but which is always
overflown at the rise of the Columbia, which is about
the first of June. " Weighed anchor " after dinner, and
at four o'clock, p. m., arrived at Vancouver. Called on
Dr. Mc Laughlin for goods, provisions, powder, balls,
&c., for our accommodation on our voyage up the Co-
lumbia, and, though he was greatly surprised that, under
the circumstances, we should think of going among those
excited Indians, yet he ordered his clerks to let us have
whatever we wanted. However, we found it rather
squally at the fort, not so much on account of our going
among the Indians of the interior, as in consequence of
a certain memorial having been sent to the United States'
Congress, implicating the conduct of Dr. Mc Laughlin
and the Hudson's Bay Company, and bearing the signa-
tures of seventy Americans. I inquired of the Doctor
if jie had refused to grant supplies to those Americans
who had signed that document; he replied that he had
not, but tha,t the authors of the memoriai need expect no
more favors from him. Not being one of the authors.
160
tOtJR VO tHfi INTfiRIOft*
't' ^'
.35
but merely a signer of the petition,, I did not come under
th^ban of the company; cdnaequently I obftiined my
oiflt for the expedition^ though at first there were
strong indications that I would be refused.
We remained at the fort over night and a part of the
next day, and after a close conversation with the gentle-
man in command, were treated with great courtesy.
At two o'clock, p. M., of Saturday 39th, left, and con-
tinued our voyage up the Columbia. As we proceeded
from the fort, mount Hood appeared directly oefore us.
Though this mountain is twenty-five miles from the
river, and more than forty from Vancouver, yet it ap-
])eared to be not more than five or six miles distant.
There are few things, perhaps, in the world, that com-
bine more grandeur and sublimity in their appearance
than this stupendous gladier viewed from the surface of
the Columbia river. The Alleghany and Katskill moun-
tains are but mounds when comparea with this astonishing
pile of Basalt, whose head i» lifted to the amazing hight
of sixteen thousand feet, and whitened with perpetual
snow. We feasted our eyes uppn this sublime spectacle
until the sun had bidden us good night, and the shades of
evening had thrown a dark mantle around the enchanting
scenery; then mooring our canoe in a little eddy, we
made our encampment for the Sabbath on a small island
about ten miles above Vancouver, which is evidently
laid under contribution by the Columbia every succeeding
June, but which, at this time, was fifteen feet higher than
the waters of the river. A canoe coixtaining seven
Indians, left the fort with us, and as we were short of
help, one of the Indians engaged, for the consideration
of a blanket and one shirt, to take the stern of our canoe,
and assist us up to the Dalls. These Indians belonged to
the Wascopam tribe, and most of them profess to have
been converted to Christianity through the labors of Rev.
Daniel Lee, and Rev. H. K.. W. Perkins. We all en-
camped in the same place, and when the time for evening
prayers arrived, the Indiana all joined us with apparent
sincerity and devotion, after which we committed our-
seiv«a to sleep on our blanket beds upon the ground.
TOUR TO THB INTERIOR.
161
leven
•t of
ition
Af%er a comfortable night's r^st, we arose and enjoyed
our huniile repast, conmstin^ of ham, bread, butter and
tea. We prepared to spend the sacred day as profiti^l>
as we could, though in the lonely solitudes of a dense
forest of Cottonwood, on the banks of the Columbia.
We engaged in a season of reading the scriptures, sing-
ing, and prayer, after which I endeavoflsd to give our
Neophytes a lesson concerning the things which belong
to their peace. This done, I stroHed along the bapks of
the river about one-fourth of a mile^ for the purpose of
being alone, and coming to a wild appletree which leaned
its trunk over the smooth surface of the waters, I seated
myself upon it, and a train of refl'^ctions, varying In
their influence upon my feelings as they differed in cha-
racter, passed through my mind. ' t
I thought of beloved parents from whom I had not
heard for years; of the tears they shed when last I saw
them, and received the parting benediction, and of the
anxiety they must still feel, if alive, for their wandering
son. I thought of all my former associates, of brothers
and sisters, and early scnool mates, and christian friends,
with whom I had taken sweet counsel, . and walked to
the house of God, and who, if they had not forgotten
me, would ask, " Where is he 1 and what is his employ-
ment f' I thought of everything of interest in my
native land; of bustling cities, with whe rattling and
hoofs clattering over their pavements; of smiling villages
and towns, with their splendid turnpikes and McAdam-
ized roads; of railroad cars and steamboats ; of temples
erected to the God of heaven; the toll of chiming bells as
they informed the waiting thousands tha*. the time of wor-
ship had arrived; of crowded assemblies listening to the
messengers of Jesus; and of. saints rejoicing, and altars
thronged with mourning penitents. Contmuing these
reflections until my mind experienced u kind of abstrac-
tion from the objects surrounding me, I fancied myself
really amidst the scenes, the contemplation of which had
produced this pleasing illusion, and starting up I found
myself suiToundfcd with thu Mhfi^n of diaath, save tb#
m»niiimng of ito tnvfoid waters tff the Cokuniaa timt
A- I
:hm, -$M
152
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
I
\i
I?
I*.
roHed beneath where I sat G^ptrasting the land which
bad passed before my mentail vi^n with that iti which I
feit%iyself a volual8|ry exile, I exclaimed, how changed
the scene ! This, mbught I, is truly a land of darkness.
Amidst the solitudes of theffe forests and plains the gos-
pel is never heard except perchance the missionary of
tire cross mav lie passing through the land, and then to
but here land there a small groop of wretched Indians,
who are alternately shivering with ague, and burning
with fever, upon the brink of death. I was led to
inquire^ -when shall this state of things give way to civil-
ization and Christianity ? when shall " the sound of the
church-going bell" be heard among these mountains and
over these plains] When shall the banks of this noble
river be studded with cities and villages, with the tem-
ples of Jehovah, whose steeples blazing in the sunlight,
shall tell the tt*aveler that God is worshiped here T And
I. fancied this response came back to my inquiries r not
until the present race shall have gone to the graves of
their fathers, and others shaU rise to take their place.
'Returning to the camp we sat down upon the ground
to a dinner which the Doctor's Kanaka, John, and my
Indian boy, Sampson, had. prepared for us. Towards
evening the Doctor and myself .talked leisurly into the
thickest of the forest, towards the centre of the Island,
and seating ourselves upon a log, talked of by-gone days,
raised a song of praise to the Kedeemer, and upon our
knees offered up a tribute of thanksgiving for the past,
and invoked the Divine blessing on our future course.
Monday, May 1st. At sunrise proceeded on our voy-
age, and were much delighted with the magnificent
scene>y on the shores of the great Columbia. At eight
o'clock passed the Prairie Du — > y which lies on the
north side of the river. This is a low, wet prairie, with
but little land which will admit of cultivation, but well
adapted to grazing purposes. As we proceeded, the
land next to the river became more uneven, the shores
more rocky and abrupt, and at length we found ourselves
crawling along at the, base of a frowning precipice of
rocks, rising more than three hundred feet perpendiculai
^li
TOUR TO THIS iNTfiRloR.
153
over our heads. A little farther on and huge maases
of Basalt appeared thrown together in the wildest con-
fusion, and these would be succeeded by another frightful
precipice, causing one involuntarily to cringe while look-
ing upward towards its dizzy height From the top, as
if to add beauty to terror, came leaping down a limpid
brook, which lost itself in spray, long before it reached
the bottom ; and then again large fir-trees, stuck upon
the top of the rock three or four hundred feet directly
over our heads, and leaning their waving tops far over
the rolling waters, would seem to look down upon us
with the most threatening aspect. Conical formations
of rocks from thirty to one hundred feet high appeared,
peering up out of the water, resembling in form the
huge Imy-stacks of a Connecticut farmer. As we passed
along at the base of these grand abutments of nature,
swarms of swallows far above our heads, were delight-
fully playing around the holes and crevices of the preci-
pice, in which they had built their nests.
At twelve o'clock, we passed a low point of land
which has received the name of Cape Horn, in conse-
quence of the difficulty of the navigation of this part of
the river arising from the strength of wind which gene-
rally prevails here. Often, when it is safe running on
all other parts of the river, canoes, on arriving here,
are obliged to lie hy, sometimes for days, before they
can possibly pass this point. Indeed, the Cape Horn of
the Columbia is more difficult to double with the pigmy
craft which is used on this river, than the stormy cape
bearing the same name at the southern extremity of
Terra del Fuego.
A few miles above Cape Horn, we came to a huge
rock, which is justly considered a great curiosity. The
mountains at this place retire about one half mile from
the river, and this rock is situated midway between the
river and the mountain. In form it is nearly round ; is
about twenty-five rods in diameter at its base, and rises
perpendicularly on all sides to the height of at least one
hundred and fifty feet. It then assumes a conical form,
and gradudly aiminishes in size till it Hues scmie two
7
154
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR*
hundred feet more, and then presents to the heavens a
broken surface of several rods in diameter, beautifully
ornamented v ith a luxuriant erov^^th of variegated ever-
greens^. Passing this stupendous monument reared by
nature's hands in mockery of the works of art, we
arrived at the cascades at sundown, and camped for the
night, after having run a hair-breadth lUk of losing our
canoe and all our baggage, at one of ; h j violent rapids
below the cascades. Our men, consisting of two Indians
and one Kaneika, were cordelling our canoe up the rapid;
and coming round a point of rocks, it took a sheer out
into the strongest part of the current, and began directly
to fill with water. My Indian boy, Sampson, was the
only one that had hold of the rope, and such was the
strength of the current against the canoe, that he could
not hold on to the rope with his hands ; and being about
to be pulled from the rocks into the river, he grasped
the rope between his teeth, and falling down upon the
rocks, held fast to them with his hands, and in that man-
ner succeeded in bringing the canoe back to the shore,
with no other damage being done, than the wetting of
our provisions and bedding.
When we retired to rest, wrapped in our wet blankets,
we were reminded of a little incident in the experience
of Mr. Townsend, a naturalist, who traveled down this
river several years before. It had rained severely all
day, and every article he had, bedding, wardrobe, pro-
visions and all, were thoroughly drenched. He rolled
himself in his wet blankets and lay down to sleep, think-
ing of the last words of his dying grandmother, " Be
careful and never sleep in damp sheets."
Tuesday, 2d. From the effects of the wind upon the
the water and the sand, filling the air with the latter as
snow in a February storm in Western New York, and
raising the former into high waves, we were obliged to
lie quiet in our camp. Occasionally, however, we ven-
tured out to the shore of the Columbia, contemplating
her majesty, as she pours her exhaustless flood down
^e ledge of rocks which forms the beautiful cascades.
The river here falls in continued rapids for three miles,
TOUR TO THfi INTERIOR.
155
not less than fifty feet. That portion of the rapids
properly called the cascades, presents an appearance of
grandeur and sublimity not inferior to that of the rapids ^
of the Niagara river, above the great cataract. At this
place the Columbia rushes through the cascade range of
mountains, and the channel through which it pours its*
mighty torrent, appears not more tnan thirty rods wide,
while each shore presents indubitable evidence that, by
a vast accumulation of water above, these mountain
barriers were torn cssunder, and thus this mighty river
found its way to the Pacific ocean. The Indians here
have a tradition that, a long time ago, the mountain was
joined together over the river, and that the river per-
formed a subterraneous passage for some distance, with
a slow current, and that their people used to pass up
and down with their canoes without difficulty ; but all
at once the foundations of this mighty arch crumbled
beneath their ponderous weight, and the whole mass
came tumbling into the river, filling up the channel and
quite damming up the stream, and thus were formed the
beautiful cascades. The probability is that this tradition
is true only in part. Doubtless the time was when there
were no cascades here, anrl they were probably formed
by the mountain's sliding into the river in tremendous
avalanches, and thus filling up the channel. The land
on each side of the river at this place is rough and
sterile, and the scenery wild beyond description. The
cascades are fifty miles above Vancouver, and one hun-
dred and forty-five from the mouth of the Columbia.
At three, p. m., the wind lulling, we proceeded up ten
miles and camped for the night, which was exceedingly
windy, with some rain. Found the river wide above
the cascades, with little current, and, from appearances,
were convinced that the Indian tradition concerning the
falling in of the mountain, is not without foundation.
The original channel appears to have been very narrow,
compared with the present width of the river. Forests
which were situated on its former banks, have been
overflown, and a vast number of stumps and trees which
have not yet wasted away, stand in the present bed of
the stream . v^ >5v . .
■ \n
:,';■
M. '
tm
ravm to tub intbrios.
Wednesday, 3d. Continued our voyage, but at noon
were obliged to lay by in consequence of the rise of the
wind.
Anxious to make headway, we continued out after
the wind had increased to a strong gale. We passed
a number of dangerous points, where the shore was pre-
cipitous and " iron bound ;" but the wind being directly
astern, and having a blanket rigged for a sail, we darted
past them like an arrow, thougn the waves ran so high
that they threatened every moment to engulph us. In
passing the last point before we came to shore, we run
a very great hazard of losing our canoe and baggage,
if not our lives. A canoe much larger than ours, with
five Indians, had just passed the point, and barelv es-
caped. Running their canoe into a little bay just above,
they hurried back along the shore, and arrived at the
point just as we did, expecting to see our little canoe
driven against the shelving rocks, by the violence of the
winds and waves, and dashed to pieces. But with ama-
zing swiftness, and in fearful proximity, we shot by the
dangerous point, realizing no other damage than a wet-
ting, and a fright. As for myself, when we were tossed
in our feather-like craft over these Atlantic waves, and
driven with such violence so near the frowning rocks
that I could touch them with my hand as we were
shooting by, and my heart beating so violently that it
sounded like the grunting of a black grouse in the top
of a fir-tree, I thought I had much rather be on terra
firma; so, mooring our canoe in a little cove, we waited
for the wind to mil. Resuming our voyage towards
evening, we ran a few miles, and camped for the night.
Thursday, 4th. Arrived at the Dalls, and f^und our
friends well and prospering. Here reside Rev. Daniel
Lee, one of the pioneer missionaries to Oregon, Rev.
H. K. W. Perkins, and Mr. H. B. Brewer. They are
laboring to establish a permanent mission at this place
for the benefit of the Indians, but with doubtful success.
The country around is much better than I expected
to find. In the vicinity of the mimion the land is ex-
ceedingly fertile, and tiie scenery is nuMt delightful.
Soon after we arrived, about twenty Indians came to
TmrR «) THE INTGR10II.
HK
the house of Mr. Brewer, where we stopped, to have a
talk with Dr. White. When he was up the Winter be-
fore, he prevailed on these Indians to organize themselves
into a kind of government. One high chief, and three
subordinates were elected ; laws were enacted, and the
penalties annexed werj whippings more or less severe,
according to the nature of the crime. The chiefs had
found much difficulty in enforcing the laws. In punishing
delinquents some of the Indians resisting, even to the
point of the knife.
The chiefs, who were appointed through the influenoe
of Dr. White, were desirous that these regulations should
continue, evidently because they placed the people under
their absolute control, and gave them the power to regu-
late all their intercourse with the whites, and with the
other Indian tribes. But the other influential men who
were not in office, desired to know of Dr. White, of
what benefit this whipping system was going to be to
them. They said they were willing it should continue,
provided they were to receive blankets, shirts and {Mints,
as a reward for being whipped. They had been whipped
a good many times, and tiad got nothing for it, and it
had done them no ffood. If this state of things was
to continue, it was all {cultus) good for nothing, -and
they would 'throw it all away. In reply they were told
by the Doctor that we could not be detained to settle
any of their difficulties now ; that we were going far-
ther into the interior, and were in a very great hurry ;
and that when we returned he would endeavor to make
all stra*ght. But he wished them to understand that
they need not expect pay for being flogged, when they
deserved it. They laughed heartily at the idea, and
dispersed, giving us an opportunity to make arrangements
for the continuance of our journey.
We left our canoe at the Dalls in the care of an In-
dian, and engaged eight horses of an old Indian, by the
name of Canasissa, who was to bring them to us the
following morning.
Friday, 5th. Canasissa arrived early in the morning,
and coming to us with a very long face, inquired what
;;«
li-
r
s-
1^ " : J
(•■^ r:
4
158
TOUR TO TUB INTERIOR.
we were going to give him to accompany us, as he
wished to see that the horses were well used. The
Doctor replied, " You are a very old man ; the journey
is long, and the Indians are very silexy (angry); you may
get into difficulty ; you had better stay at home." Still
Canasissa insisted on going, but was told that if he went
he must go for nothing. He then said that he had
brought but seven horses, and thought that we did not
cive only enough to pay for the seven, but he should
nave brought the eighth if he could have found it. He
was told that we must have the eighth. " Yes," said
Canasissa, "You may have the eightn, if you will give
me one blanket more in addition to what you were to
give me." But we peremptorily refused to take any
without the whole, according to agreement ; and went
about negotiating with another Indian to supply us with
horses. When Canasissa saw that we were about to
succeed with the other one, he altered his tone, and
came up to us saving that it was very good for us not
to pay another bfanket ; that he would bring the other
horse, and would go with us himself. Taking him at
his offer, we made arrangements also with Rev. H. K.
W. Perkins to accompany us.
Horses ready, saddles all on, and bridles, consisting
of hide-rope, tied to the horse's lower jaw, with our
baggage, provisions, &c., packed on the backs of two
of the horses, we mounted, and left the mission at eleven
o'clock. Four miles brought us to the great Dalls, and
here Canasissa brought us the eighth horse, and acknow-
ledged that the object he had in view in not bringing
it to us in the first place, was to extort from us an
additional blanket, a trick quite characteristic of these
Indians, who seem instinctively to embrace every oppor-
tunity that presents itself, to overreach those who, in
any measure, are dependent upon them. I was pecu-
liarly struck, while we were negotiating with them, with
their astonishing tact in cheating. As a matter of
course, lying has much to do in their system of trade,
and he is the best fellow who can tell the biggest lie,
make men believe it, and practice the greatest deception.
inf
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
159
in
A few years aeo a great religious excitement prevailed
among these Indians, and nearly the whole tribe, con-
flistinff of upwards of a thousand, professed to be con-
verted, were baptized, and received into the christian
church ; but they have nearly all relapsed into their
former state, with the exception that many of them still
keep up the outward forms of religion. Their religion
appears to be more of the head than of the heart, and
though they are exceedingly vicious, yet doubtless they
would be much worse than they are but for the restrain-
ing influences exerted upon them by the missionaries.
They are known by the name of the Wasco Indians,
and they call their country round the Dalls, Wascopam.
They claim the country extending from the cascades up
to the falls of the Columbia, the distance of about fifty
miles. " La Dallas," or the narrows, as the word signi-
fies in English, are somewhat remarkable. Here the
Columbia suddenly contracts into a very narrow channel,
and then rushes through a mighty gorge or chasm in the
rocks, with fearful violence, in its passage tumbling and
boiling and roaring, and ever and anon forming the most
tremendous whirlpools. Yet the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's boats are frequently made to run these frightful
narrows, and it is not uncommon for them to pay for
their rashness with the loss of a boat, and a sacrifice of
a number of their men.
Just below the Dalls, where the current continues to
be strong, is a little island, used by the Indians as a place
of deposit for the dead. There is something peculiar in
their manner of sepulture. The dead are taken to a small
house, built on this island for the purpose, and laid in a
pile around the inside of the house, the head next to the
wall, and the feet towards the center of the building.
Here hundreds have been depositee, forming a pile
several feet high.
The country around the Dalls is valuable, in conse-
quence of its adaptation to grazing and farming purposes,
and the extensive salmon fishery which might here be
established. These Indians, with most of the tribes of
Oregon, are destined to utter extinction, and the time jg
f
i(k>
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
not far distant when their country will be occupied by
the descendants of the Pilgrims.
At two o'clock, we left the Dalls, and seven miles
brought us to the shoots, or falls of the Columbia, which
at this stage of the water, are about ten feet perpendic-
ular, but in June, when the river is high, the water sets
back from the Dalls so that there are no falls to be seen.
Arrived at the river " De Shoots " at five, p. m., ten
miles above the Dalls, and three above the falls of the
Columbia. This river rises amone the mountains which
divide the Wallamette and the Walla- Walla countries,
called the Cascade Range, and taking a north-easterly
course and watering a fertile valley, it forms a number
of beautiful cataracts and cascades, it falls into the
Columbia one hundred and ninety miles from its mouth.
Probably it derives its name from the fact that it pos-
sesses numerous falls, and finally rushes down a \edse of
rocks into the Columbia with great violence. We tound
it very difliicuh to cross; but with the help of a few
Walla- Walla Indians whom we' found here, and a couple
of scoop-shovel canoes, we succeeded in crossing without
accident, though, to the inexperienced, it would have
been considered an enterprise of great peril. But the
crossing was not so difficult as it was to satisfy the Indians
who assisted us. They wanted all we had, even the
clothes on our backs; but we paid them what we pleased,
and repacking our animals, continued on five miles farther,
camping for the night beside a small rivulet and under
the lee of a sanddrift thirty feet high. Sometimes, in
the valley of the Columbia, the wind is so strong that
the sand is driven about like snow, the air is full of it,
and woe be to the eyes that are compelled to meet the
beating storm.
■ May 6th. Journeyed on, and at eleven, a. m., came
to a stream of water which has received the name of
John Day*s river. It is about twenty rods wide at its
mouth, too deep to ford, but easily crossed by swiming,
in consequence of its having but little current. It derived
its cognomen from a remarkable circumstance in the
historv of the gentleman whose name it bears.
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. **
161
i.
seen.
John Day was a native of Kentucky, and though a
man of some fortune, and considerable talents, and might
have lived in affluence and ease in his native country,
yet, from choice, he abandoned all the endearments of
civilized life, and became a rambler in the savage wilds
of the Rocky niountains and Oregon. When Wilson
Price Hunt performed his astonishing journey from Mis-
souri to the mouth of the Columbia river, John Day was
one of his most faithful and persevering companions, and
suffered with him the most surprising hardships. Excel-
ling in the qualifications of a hunter, and faithful to the
trusts committed to him, responsibilities were thrown
upon him during that perilous journey which proved more
than he was able to bear. At Astoria lie was appointed
to accompany Robert Stewart back to Missouri, on busi-
ness of importance, but had not proceeded far up the
Columbia before he became restless and uneasy, and
finally gave evident signs of insanity. On the evening
of tne second of July, 1813, he attempted to destroy
himself, but being disarmed, he sank into quiet and pro-
fessed remorse. He pretended to sleep, but just before
daylight he sprang up, siezed a pair of loaded pistols,
and endeavored to blow out his own brains, but he held
the pistols too high, and the balls passed over his head.
He was then secured so that he could not harm him-
self, and sent back to Astoria. This event happened
in the vicinity of this river. He was taken back from
this point in hopes that he might recover, but his consti-
tution was entirely broken; he linffered for a number of
months, and died, evidently from the effects of the hard-
ships he had endured.
Dined on the bank of this river, and conversed on the
perilous adventures of the mountaineers; then resumed
our wearisome journey, but found little to interest us, or
to break the monotony of the scenery along the Colum-
bia. In the afternoon, however, we were entertained
with the appearance of a flock of sandhill cranes, num-
bering, at least, two thousand, which passed directly
over our heads, on their passage to the mouth. Two
large rattlesnakes placed themselves in our path ; we
7*
^ !
162
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
t* .
11^,
■J- t
:
examined them for a moment, and then " bruised theii
heads." A few small trees also, the like of which I hav#
never seen in any country, were objects of curiosity
We passed a few score of Indians during the day, bu
they manifested no signs of hostility, and at night en
camped for the Sabbath about midway between the Dalla
and fort Walla- Walla.
Sabbath, May 7th, was an exceedingly windy day, and
we found it much more pleasant to continue in camp,
than it would have been to travel. Indeed, I have sel-
dom looked for the day of rest more anxiously than I
did the last part of the week past. Though we made
only about one hundred and fifty miles during the week,
yet, from the constant labor resulting from our mode of
traveling, we had become exceedingly fatieued, and the
day in which we are to perform no bervile work, was
most thankfully welcomed. Though we were doomed
to spend it far from the abodes of civilized man, yet it
brought with it the most delightful associations. It
reminded me not only of the completion of the work of
creation, when ths morning stars sang together, and all
the sons of God shouted for joy, but my mind was car-
ried back to him, who, " though he was rich, yet for our
sakes became poor, that we through his poverty might
be made rich." I saw him in my contemplations amidst
all the scenes of labor and suffering through which he
was called to pass. The garden of Gethsemene, the
judgment hall, the bloody summit of Calvary, and the
crimsoned cross, passed in review before me. I heard
the Saviour of men, wW\\e his blood was pouring forth as
from a high and loft^ altar to satisfy the demands of
offended justice, when he looked around upon his mur-
derers and cried out, "It is finished." It was not fancy;
faith brought the Saviour near, and looked upon him when
he bowed his head upon his breast and gave up the ghost.
From the summit of the blood-stained mountains, I fol-
lowed him to the sepulchre, and here I saw my Saviour
under the dominion of the grave, a captive to the king
of terrors. But the third morning drew near, and the
sun that sat in blood, arose in glory. The crucified Re-
L
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
103
deemer, triumphant over death, and leading captivity
captive, received gifts for men.
** He rises who mankind has bought.
With sweat and blood extremo,
'Twas great to speak a world from nought,
*Twas greater to redeem."
Monday, 8th. Arose invigorated in body and mind,
and invoking the Divine blessing upon us in our future
trials, packed our animals and wound our way along up
the numerous turns of the Columbia. The trail runs in
the deep valley of the river along the shore; this makes
the route quite uninteresting. The prospect is entirely
broken off by the tremendous walls of Basalt, which
tower from four to seven hundred feet on both sides of
the river. When this wall approached the river so as
not to admit of the trail passing between it and the
water, we were obliged to climb this stupendous ledge,
traveling for awhile upon its top, then clambering down
among the rocks till we regained the lower valley.
While doing this we sometimes take alarm from the
fearful crash of a detached mass Of Basalt as it came
leaping down from the summit of the precipice. This
climbing, however, gave us an opportunity of seeing
what the country is a little distance from the river.
Nothing can exceed the barrenness of the land. Though
the face of the country for a considerable distance from
the river on each side, is agreeably diversified with hills
and valleys, yet, as far as the eye can reach to the right
and left, it is one continued desert of sand, gravel, and
rocks. It is said that farther away from the river than
we could see, the land is more fertile, and the grass
abundant.
Having traveled thirty-six miles over this dosert
region, we stopped for the night on the banks of a beau-
tiful stream called the Utilla. Here we found fifteen or
twenty of the Walla- Walla Indians, exceedingly squallid
in their appearance, and living on the fish they caught
in the stream. These fish are a species of the salmon,
and we succeeded in getting enougn for our supper and
I*.
164
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
li
1 1 * '1
^
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f.
1
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I
breakfast. The land on this river is more fertile, and
grows better as you go up the stream.
Next morning, at the rising of the sun, we left our
attendants with the pack animals, and proceeded on
ahead, determined, if possible, to reach the mission sta-
tion at Waialetpu, on the Walla- Walla river, the same
day. Passed Fort Walla- Walla at twelve, and arrived
at Dr. Whitman's at five, having traveled fifty miles
since we mounted in the morning. We were received
with great cordiality by Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Gi^er,
Dr. Whitnmn being absent on a tour to the United
States. They had heard we were coming, and were
looking for us with great anxiety. We soon learned
that the reports in the lower country about war, that
had produced such an excitement, were not without
foundation : the Kayuse Indians, among whom this
inission is established, had freely communicated to Mr.
Giger, whom they esteemed as their friend, all they
knew concerning it.
When the Indians were first told that the Americans
were designing to subjugate them, and take away their
lands, the young chie£ of the Kayuse tribe were in
favor of proceeding immediately to hostilities. They
were for raising a large war party, and, rushing directly
down to the Wallamette settlement, cut off the inhabit-
ants at a blow. The old chiefs were of a different
opinion ; they suggested more cautious measures. Ta-
king into consideration, the difficulty, at that season of
the year, of marching a large party the distance of
three or four hundred miles through a wide range of
mountains, covered with snow, they advised all the
Indians to wait until they should obtain more information
concerning the designs of the Americans. They also
thought that it would not be wisdom in them, in any
case, to commence an offensive war, but to prepare
themselves for a vigorous defence against any attack.
They frequently remarked .to Mr. Giger, that they did
not wish to go to war, but if the Americans came to
take away their lands, and bring them into a state of
vassalage, they would fight so long as they had a drop
"^t'yf
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
165
le, and
ft our
led on
on sta-
same
irrived
miles
ceived
Giger,
United
were
earned
ir, tliat
without
n this
to Mr.
I they
ericans
y their
'ere in
They
irectly
nhabit-
fferent
. Ta-
son of
ice of
ige of
Jl the
nation
y also
n any
•epare
Itack.
3y did
nrie to
ite of
I drop
of blood to shed. They said they had received their
information concerning the designs of the Americans
from Baptiste Dorio. This individual, who is a half-
breed, son of Madame Dorio, the heroine of Washington
Irving's Astoria, understands the Nez Perce langauge
well, and had given the Kayuses the information that had
alarmed them. Mr. Giger endeavored to induce them
to prepare, early in the i^pring, to cultivate the ground
as they did the year before, but they refused to do any-
thing, saying that Baptiste Dorio had told them that it
would be of no consequence ; that the whites would
come in the summer, and kill them all off, and destroy
their plantations.
After Dorio had told them this story, they sent a
Walla- Walla chief, called Yellow Serpent, to Vancouver,
to learn from Doctor McLeughlin the facts in the case.
Yellow Serpent returned and told the Kayuses that Dr.
McLaughlin said he had nothing to do in a war with the
Indians ; that he did not believe trie Americans designed
to attack them, and that, if the Americans did go to
war with the Indians, the Hudson's Bay Company would
not assist them. After they got this information from
the hias (great) Doctor, the Indians became more calm ;
many of them went to cultivating the ground as for-
merly, and a large number of little patches had been
planted and sown, before we arrived at the station.
The Kayuses wove principally encamped a-">:.g the
base of the Blue mountains, a few miles «'a ' Oi Dr.
Whitman's house ; and after wc had obti \. all the
information we could from Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Gi-
ger, concerning the state of things among them, we
sent them word that we had come, and desired to see
them. We also sent the chiefs word that we desired
them to make arrangements to have all their people
meet us at the mission on the following Friday, to haA/^
a talk.
The chiefs came to see us at Dr. Whitman's, and told
the story of their grievances, and said that they desired
to have the difficulty settled. They said it would not
be convenient for the people to come together so soon
t !i
in
106
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
Bt.«
Pl •
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as we desired, as many of them were off among the
mountains, hunting elk. As they must be informed of
the meeting, it would be several days before the people
could get together. We ascertained!, however, that this
was a mere pretence. They had been informed that
Ellis, the Nez Perce chief, was coming down to meet us
on their ground, and this had determined them not to
have any meeting until Ellis should arrive. But as we
had learned that Ellis was coming with his warriors,
consisting of several hundred — ^for what purpose we
could not ascertain, some saying to make war upon the
Kayuses — we came to the conclusion that the meeting
of the two tribes should, if possible, be prevented.
While considering this subject, we were solicited by
the chiefs to take a ride among the Indian plantations.
Accordingly, a party was made out which would have
made all the sacerdotal order laugh to contemplate.
The captain of the party was a Kayuse chief, by the
name of Feathercap : and of all the Indians I have seen
he has a countenance the most savage. But, with this,
there is a dignity and decision manifested in his move-
ments, which might put many a white man to the blush.
He is about five feet ten inches high ; has a voice of the
stentorian order, and possesses all the native character-
istics of an orator.
His dress was quite fantastical, being composed of
skin breeches, a striped shirt, which he wore over his
breeches, and a scarlet coat, gilted off very much in the
fashion of the regimentals of a British general. His
head-dress was composed, first of a cotton handkerchief
thrown loosely over his head, then a cap made of otter
skin over the handkerchief, and on the top of the cap,
fastened with savage taste, the long hair of a white
horse's tail, which hung in ringlets down the backside
of his neck. • Thus rigged, he was prepared to guide us
on our tour of pleasure. An Indian woman and her
daughter joined our party, of whom mention has been
made in another part of this narrative. The old woman
lived many years with Thomas McKay, but he finally
cast her off, and she is now the wife of an old half-breed
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
167
we
the
Iroquois, by the name of Jo-Gray. Her daughter is the
wife of Charles Roe. They both live in the lower
country, but were up on a visit to their relatives among
the Indians. Their dresses were an imitation of the
Boston fashions, but were much defiled by the smoke,
dirt, and grease of wigwams. They were both astride
their horses, the younger carrying her little son before
her.
There were also three other Indians, without note-
worthy peculiarities. Mr. Giger, who is a small man,
mounted a donkey which was about the size of a New-
foundland dog, and exceedingly antic, just having re-
cruited from a journey across the Rocky mountains. In
addition to these, Mrs. Whitman, Dr. White and myself
made up the party. Feathercap led us about one mile,
across a low piece of fertile ground, when we arrived at
the nearest plantations. We ascertained that about
sixty of the Kayuses had commenced cultivating the
ground. They each have fenced around a small piece
of ground, from one-fourth of an acre, to three acres,
and each one is entitled only to what he raises himself.
They had in the ground wheat, com, peas and potatoes.
Many of the places were well fenced and well cultivated,
and the crops looked flourishing. The Indians appeared
highly pleased that we went out to see their farms, and
told us they were very glad that they had been learned
to till the ground. They have already learned that theii
livelihood, which previously was very precarious, by
their little farms, is fully secured to them. This, they
say, makes their hearts glad.
Our motley party proceeded in high glee, alternately
conversing in the English, Chenook, and Walla- Walla
languages, and remarking upon whatever presented itself
before us. The little man on the hias tenas (very little)
mule, was the subject of much amusement with the
Indians ; and in the novelty and excitemeiit of our little
excursion, the subject of war and blood was entirely
forgotten. We passed pleasantly along, now crossing
a beautiful plain, blooming with flowers, which sent
forth their rich odors upon the breeze ; now penetrating
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168
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the amall thickets of servill, chokecherry, thorn and
rose bushes ; and now fording little brooks of pure,
limpid water, which came leaping down from the blue
mountains, until we had traveled the distance of eight
miles in a circuitous route. We then found ourselves
very unexpectedly back to the point whence we started,
all prepared for a consultation concerning the Indian
war.
As there was a large party of the Kayuses and Walla-
Walla Indians encamped on the head waters of the
Utilla, about fifty miles from Dr. Whitman's, embracing
some of the principal chiefs, Mr. Perkins was desired to
go out, and invite them to come in so as to be at the
meeting, subsequently to be held at the mission station.
Not knowing the way, he procured an Indian guide, and
started off with no other person to accompany him.
Traveling through a beautiful country, well adapted to
pastoral pursuits, towards evening he arrived at the
Utilla, where he expected to find the Indians, but they
had removed to another place about twenty miles farther
off. Inasmuch as he had no provision, and no means of
kindling a fire, and there being no signs of Indian habit-
ations m the vicinity, he resolved to proceed to camp,
though in doing so, he was obliged to cross the stream.
He asked the guide where the crossing place was, and
was told that it was just before him. He tried to get
the Indian to go in first and see how deep the water
was, but the Indian refused, saying he was afraid. Mr.
Perkins then rode his horse in, but soon found the water
so deep that the horse was obliged to swim. But now
it w^ as easy to go ahead as to turn about, and urging
his horse a little, he was borne through the rapid stream
in safety, to the opposite shore.
His guide, frightened at the idea of passing the stream
in the same manner, could not be induced to follow, and
making an excuse that he did not know tl" ^^r^y, deserted
him, and went back. Luckily, however, Mr. Perkins
discovered an Indian not far distant, driving some horses,
and of him he learned where he should find the trail that
led to the Indian camp. He pushed on at full speed, and
TOtTR TO THE INTERIOR.
160
arrived there just after dark, having rode since ten o'clock
in the morning, the distance of seventy miles. Here he
found three chiefs by the name of Tauitau, Yellow Ser-
pent, and Five Crows. The last has recently professed
conversion to the protestant religion, and the first h^
become a Catholic. Yellow Serpent is iiavorable to the
Protestant missions, but does not gi'^^e as good evidence
of conversion as Five Crows. iell*»w Serpent is the
principal chief of the Walla- Walla tribe, the otlier two
are brothers, and chiefs of the Kayuse.
The son of Yellow Serpent was also with him. He
has spent a number of years in the Methodist mission
school, on the Wallamette river, where he received the
name of Elijah Heading, and where he acquired some
knowledge of the English language, and professed con-
version ^o Christianity. Mr. Perkins put up for the night
at Yellow Serpent's lodge. Supper was served of dried
salmon, after which prayer was proposed by Elijah.
They sang a hymn, and Mr. Perkins led in prayer, and
was followed by Elijah, who, after he had concluded,
requested his father to pray. This ended, they sung
another hymn, and prepared to sle^p. Mr. Perkins
having wet his blankets in swimming the river, had none
to sleep in, but Yellow Serpent, taking his own blanket
from his shoulders, gave it to him, saying that he had no
blankets, but would make him as comfortable as he could.
Wrapped in the Indian's blanket, he composed himself to
sleep.
The next morning, quite early, he called at Tauitau's
lodge, and was informed, on entering, that they had not
yet had their morning prayers. The chief caused a bell
to be rung, at the sound of which all his band came
together for devotion. Tauitau then said to Mr. Perkins,
" We are Catholics, and our worship is different from
yours." He then fell upon his knees, all the rest kneeling
and facing him. The chief had a long string of beads
on his neck, to which was attached a brass cross. After
all were knelt, they devoutly crossed themselves, and
commenced their prayers as follows: ** We are poor, we
are poor," repeating it ten times, and then closing with,
r
170
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
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"Good Father, good Son, good Spirit," and then the
chief would slip a bead on the string. This was contin-
ued until all the beads were removed from one part of
the string to the other. When their devotions closed,
Tauitau said, " This is the way in which the priest taught
us to worship .God," but Elijah said that ** Tauitau and
his band prayed from the head, but we pray from the
heart. Biddmg them good morning, Mr. rerkins moun-
ted his horse, and at evening arrived in safety at the
mission.
Ffidav, 12th. As the Indians refused to come together
unless Ellis and his men came down to meet them, we
informed them that we should go up and see Ellis in his
own country, but being suspicious that we intended to
prevent his coming down, they were much opposed to
our going. Explaining to the chiefs the object of our
visit, they seemed to be satisfied, and we went about
preparing for the continuance of our journey.
At five, p. M., all were ready, and we started off on
a round gallop in a northeasterly direction, and the sun
went down beneath the waters of the Pacific. The
light of the moon enabled us to keep along the winding
trail as it led us over a beautifully undulating country,
till eleven o'clock at night, when we camped on a small
rivulet called the Toosha, forty-five miles from where
we started. Next morning at sunrise proceeded. At
noon encamped on another little stream, having traveled
thirty-five miles. Rested for an hour, and continued our
course through an exceedingly romantic country. At
five, p. M., arrived at the Snake or Lewis river, where a
portion of the Nez. Perse tribe reside, headed by one
whom they call "Red Wolf."
The village is situated on a small inclined plain, quite
fertile, but the country round about is very rocky and
mountainous. The valleys, however, afibrd abundant
grass to supply the numerous horses owned by the
Indians. Red Wolf, in more than one instance, has
proved himself a friend to the Americans. When Capt.
bonneville was in this country, many years ago, in his
trade with the Indians, he met with violent opposition
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TOUR TO THiS INTERIOR.
in
from the Hudson's Bay Company, and was compelled
to leave that portion under the control of the company.
But, in his attempt to do, he lost his way, and wai:aered
about until he and his men were reduced to a starving
state. Fortunately, he struck a trail that led him to the
lodffe of Red Wolf, and he immediately told the chief
of his great distress. Red Wolf was *moved by the
story, and ordered a horse to be butchered without
delay. Bonneville and his men feasted themselves to
their entire satisfaction; and when they were read^ to
leave, they were supplied with a guide, and provision
for their journey.
From Dr. Whitman's to Red Wolf's place it is one
hundred miles; and having traveled it in one day, our
horses were leg weary. Consequently, we turned them
loose among the hills to remain till we returned, and
obtained fresh ones of Red Wolf, for the prosecution
of our journey. It was twenty-five miles from Red
Wolf's to the mission station among the Nez Perces,
under the care of Rev. Mr. Spaulding and the sun was
two hours high; the trail was difficult in some places,
but the horses were as light-footed as antelopes. Red
Wolf had volunteered to accompany us, and crossing
the river, swimming our horses in the rear of our canoe,
we each one mounted the animal designated by the chief,
and himself taking the lead, we measured off the sround
with wonderful rapidity. We passed a number of small
villages, and found the vallies which were fertile, aston-
ishingly filled with horses. From one eminence could
be seen not less than one thousand. But Red Wolf led
us on with such astonishing swiftness that we had
scarcely time to cast a glance at the Indians, horses,
rivers, mountains, &c., by which the scenery of our
route was diversified, and which we left one after another
in quick succession far in the rear. Just as the sun was
setting we brought up on Clear Water River, on the side
opposite the house of Rev. Mr. Spaulding. We had
traveled twenty-five miles in two hours, an i sixty miles
since we dined at twelve o'clock. Hailing across the
river, Mr. Spaulding came over in a small canoe, and
I
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took us and our baggage over, and, with his wife, and
Mr. and Mrs. Littlejohn, cave us a most cordial and
hearty welcome to their isolated home.
Sunday, 14th. Some two hundred Indians, of all a^s,
met in the rear of Mr. Spaulding's house for religious
worship. They behaved with great propriety, and some
of them gave good evidence of genuiue conversion. Mr.
Spaulding had received three of them into church fellow-
ship, two of them chiefs, by the name of Joseph and
Timothy; and thirty others stood propounded for mem-
bership. According to arrangement, these were to be
received on the Sabbath after our arrival. Being exam-
ined according to the order of the Presbyterian church,
and giving satisfaction as to their religious experience,
they and their children received baptism, and they be-
came members of Christ's visible church.
In the evening it fell to mv lot to preach to the few
Americans who providentially had been thus thrown
toother. This is evidently the most promising Indian
mission in Oregon.
Monday, 15th. Climbed to the top of a mountain,
twenty-two hundred feet high, which overlooks the valley
of Sapwai, and enables one to trace the windings of
Clear Water, for several miles. We started a number
of large rocks down the precipitous sides of the moun-
tain towards the river, but on descending found that our
sport was not gratuitous. Some Indians had just come
up the trail on horseback, and a fragment of one of the
rocks had struck a horse's leg and broken it. But the horse
being not very valuable, the matter was easily adjusted.
When we arrived, Ellis, with some hundreds of his
people, was fifty or sixty miles off, and a letter was sent
to him to come down and meet us.
Tuesday, 16th. Joseph, who is second to Ellis in the
chieftainship, made a martial display of his band, in a
little plain in the rear of the house, where he entertained
us with a sham fight. We estimated the number undei
Joseph at seven nundred. Arrayed in their war dross,
they made a very savage, not to say imposing, appear-
ance.
TOUR 10 THS INTBRIOll.
178
Wednesday, 17th. Joseph called out his band and
awaited the arrival of Ellis. We were requested to
take our places in the front ranks of Joseph's band, in
the centre, and soon appeared, coming over the moun-
tain, behind which had been waiting, a cloud of Indians,
that spread itself over its sides. The mountain seemed
aUve, as hundreds of Indians came moving towards the
valley. They were all mounted on theii' best horses,
and these were ornamented with scarlet belts and head
dresses, while tassels dangled from their ears. They ar-
rived on the borders of the plain, and the two bands were
separated from each other about fifty rods, and now the
scene that presented itself begsars description. A thou-
saad savages rushed into all the mancevers of a deadly
fight, while the roar of musketry, the shrill sound cf the
war whistle, the horrible yelling, and the dashing too and
fro upon their fiery steeds, which continued for half an
hour, and approached us nearer and nearer until the
froth from their horse's nostrils would fly into our faces
as they passed — these, with the savage pomposity with
which they were caparisoned, and the frightful manner
in which they were daubed with paint, their fiery visa-
ges being striped with red, black, white, and yellow,
were all calculated not only to inspire terror, but a dread
of savage fury in the mind of every beholder. At the
very heieht of the excitement, when it appeared that the
next whirl of the savage cavalry would trample us all
beneath their feet, Ellis stretched himself up to his
utmost height upon the back of his splendid charger, and
waving his hand over the dark mass, instantly all was
quiet, and the terrifying yell of the savage was succeeded
by profound silence. All dismounted, and the chiefs and
principal men, shook hands with us, in token of friend-
ship. All again mounted, ourselves joining the troop on
horses provided by the Indians for our use, and thev
marched us back over the hill to a little plain beyond,
for the purpose of entertaining us with a still farther
exhibition of their customs.
Conaeeted with EUis's band were some braves whom
ths vii»l« BsJ^sm 4»ii0ht t» hoaor. The Blaekfeet
i
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174
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
(A 4
kf»'"
Indians have always been the deadly enemies of the
Nez Perces, and of all the braves, none are honored so
much as those who have killed Blackfeet. One of them
then present, has killed twelve with his own hands,
taken their scalps and muskets, and brought them as
trophies to his lodge. This he had done to revenge the
death of an only orother, who, according to his story,
was treacherously murdered by the Blackfeet. A large
circle was formed around this brave, he occupying the
centre of the circle, bearing on one arm the muskets he
had captured from the enemy, and hanging on the other
the scalps he had taken. He displayed these trophies
before the multitude, and at the same time, gave a history
of the manner in which each one was taken. Ellis said
he was the greatest brave in the nation, and they always
honor bim m this way. A terrible battle had been re-
cently fought by a party of the Nez Forces with a party
of Blackfeet, in which the former were victorious. This
battle was acted to the life, with the exceptiott that no
blood was shed. The scene then closed with a war
dance, conducted by a chief whom the whites designate
by the name of " Lawyer," and in whom is comoined
the cunning and shrewdness of the Indian, with the
ability and penetration of the statesman.
Though this savage "training" wa^more exciting than
any martial display I had ever witnessed, yet it closed
up quietly and peacefully, and as it had been conducted
upon strictly temperance principles, all retired from the
scene perfectly sober. At dark, of the thousand Indians
present during the day, scarcely one was to be seen
outside of his lodge.
Ascertaining from Ellis that he designed to go down
to meet the Kayuses when we returned, with some of his
men, for the purpose of inducing them to accept of the
laws which the Nez Perces had received, and with which
they were well pleased, we waived our objections against
his going, and on Thursday, the 18th, prepared to take
our departure.
Here I would take occasion to observe, that the Rev.
Mr. Spaulding and his worthy companion are laboring
TOUR TO THE INTERfoH.
175
faithfully for both the spiritual and temporal good of this
people, and in no place have I seen more visible fruits
of labor thus bestowed. There are few missionaries in
any part of the world nrKire worthy of the confidence
of the church that employs them, than these self-sacri-
ficing servants of Jesus Christ. Far away from all
civilized society, and depending for their safety from the
fury of excited savages, alone in the protection of
Heaven, they are entitled to the sympathies and prayers
of the whole christian church. Bidding them farewell,
we re-crossed the Clear-Water, where our horses were
in waiting, rode back to Red Wolf's place, and slept.
Next morning sent an Indian out among the hills to
hunt for our horses, and as we were finishing our break-
fast, which our boys had prepared for us, Red Wolf
came out of his lodge and rung a large hand-bell, to call
the Indians from the other lodges to their morning
prayers. All assembled to the number of one hundred,
JIM exhortation or harangue was given them by one of
the chiefs, and then singing a hymn in the Indian tongue,
two engaged in prayer. I was greatly surprised, in
traveling through the Indian country, to find that these
outward forms of Christianity are observed in almost
every lodge. The Indians generally are nominally chris-
tian, and about equally divided betwixt the Protestant
and Catholic religion.
At eight o'clock, a hallooing upon the side of the
mountain indicated that our horses were found, and
would soon be at our camp. Packing, saddling, and
bridling were done in short order, and, Mr. Spaulding
joining our party, we soon left the valley of the Snake
River Dehind us. Examining the country more critically
our return than when we went out, we found it to
on
l)e indescribably beautiful and picturesque, sometimes
rising into the romantic and sublime, and generally well
adapted to all pastoral purposes. No timber of any
consequence appeared, except on the banks of the
streams. Crossing the Tookaran, and Toosha, we stop-
ped for supper on a beautiful brook, called Imaispa. We
found we had barely provisions enough for tms meal,
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TOUR TO THfi INTERIOR.
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and two of us resolved to proceed, rather than go hun-
gry all tjie next day. Letting our horses crop the grass
for an hour, we traveled on ; Mr. Perkins and Mr.
Spaulding preferring to remain where they were till
morning. At daybreak we arrived at Dr. Whitman's,
having set upon our horses all night.
During our absence the Kayuses had all collected
within a few miles of Dr. Whitman's, and were prepar-
ing for the great meeting with the Nez Perces, on our
return.
On Saturday, 20th, Ellis, with three hundred of his
people, arrived, and camped within a short distance of
the mission. Wearied out by excessive labor, we put
off the meeting of the two tribes until the ensuing
week.
Sunday morning about one hundred Indians assembled
at the mission for religious worship, and were addressed
by all the missionaries present. In the afternoon I
walked out on the plain a short distance, and soon found
myself on a little rise of ground, where were two
graves, one of which was inclosed in a picket. Inquir-
ing who was buried there, my attendant replied, " The
grave inside the picket is that of the only child, a little
daughter, of Mr. and Mrs. Whitman, who was drowned
in that creek which, passes near the house. That on the
outside incloses the remains of Joseph, the Hawaiian,
who lived with Dr. Whitman a number of years, and
served him faithfully while he lived." This Hawaiian
was a converted man, and possessing considerable talent,
he was very useful to the mission. Though he was a
great lover of the Indians, and would do all he could for
their welfare, yet, when he died, not one of them could
be prevailed upon to assist in carrying him to the grave;
but Dr. Whitman, and Mr. Pombrun, of Fort Walla-
Walla, bore him upon their shoulders to the house
appointed for all the living.
I returned from this excursion reflecting upon the
severe trials of missionaries, many of whom are com-
pelled to bury their oflipring with their own hands.
Prisaehfld in thf afteriuioii t& sevet) Araj^ricans, two
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
177
"'V'
of whom came in from their camp, three miles distant,
where they were preparing to cross the mountains to
the United States. One of these, Wm. C. Sutton, is
truly " a brand plucked from the burning." For three
years he has been a living witness of the power of the
gospel to save even the chief of sinners. He lived for
many years in the Rocky mountains, and contracted all
the vices common to the mountaineers ; but abandoning
the trapper's life, and coming down among the mission-
aries in the lower country, he was powerfully awakened
to see the folly of his former course, and after struggling
for days on the brink of despair, was brought "from
darkness to light, and from the power of Satan to the
living God."
Monday, 22d. We were visited by a number of
Indians in the morning, among whom was one by the
name of Jacob, whose history is a clear exhibition of
the cunning and wonderful credulity of the Indians. By
some means he obtained a large picture from the whites,
which he was told represented the devil, and Indian
shrewdness at once suggested to him that he could use
tiie picture greatly to his advantage among his people,
who had always believed that an evil spirit existed, and
had much to do in inflicting misery upon the Indians.
Taking good care to keep his picture concealed, and
preparing the way for the people to receive him in his
supernatural character, by spending much of his time
alone, apparently in solemn thought, and in performing
his conjurations, he at length gave out that he had Dia-
holus under his control, and could bring him up at any
time, in the sight of the people. To prove his assertion,
he left the camp, charging the people to watch him, and
as he went behind a little breastwork, several rods olT,
which he had prepared for the occasion, to keep their
eyes fixed upon the top of the breastwork. Performing
his incantations awhile, at length Diaholus appeared to
the terrified Indians, rising slowly above the breastwork.
Jacob had accomplished his object, proved himself mas-
ter of the Devil, ard by this manoeuver secured to him-
self unbounded infuence among his people. ^ . - -d -■
.8 • *
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178
TOUR TO THfi INTERIOH*
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During the day, Nez Perce Indians continued to
arrive, until six hundred people, and a thousand horses,
appeared on the plains. The Kayuse and Walla- Walla
bands united, forming a troop of three hundred men, all
mounted. These met the Ner. Perces on the plain in
front of Dr. Whitman's house, and then a scene similar
to that at Lapwai, presented itself. The Indians worked
themselves up into a high state of excitement, and Ellis
said afterwards that he thought the Kayuses were de-
termined to fight in good earnest. Tauitau, the Catholic
chief, as he approached us, appeared quite angry, and
disposed to quarrel. Seeing the excitement increase,
and fearing that it mighty end seriously, unless the atten-
tion of the Indians could be drawn to some other subject,
Mr. Spaulding gave notice that all would repair to Dr.
W.'s house, for the purpose of tallapoosa^ (worship).
But Tauitau came forward in a very boisterous manner,
and inquired what we had made all this disturbance for.
We repaired to the house, followed by several hundred
Indians, and after engaging in a season of prayer, found
that the excitement had died away, and the Indians were
scattering to their lodges for the night.
Tuesday, 23d. The chiefs and principal men of both
tribes came together at Dr. Whitman's to hear what we
had to say. They were called to order by Tauitau,
who by this time had got over his excitement, and then
was placed before them the object of our visit. Among
other things they were told that much had been said
about war, and we had come to assure them that they
had nothing to fear from that quarter ; that the Presi-
dent of the United States had not sent the Doctor to
their country, to make war upon them, but to enter into
arrangements with them to regulate their intercourse
with the white people. We were not there to catch
them in a trap as a man would catch a beaver, but to do
them good ; and if they would lay aside their former
practices and prejudices, stop their quarrels, cultivate
their lands, and receive good laws, they might become a
great and a happy people ; that in order to do this, they
must all be united, for they were but few in comparison
TOUB TO TUB INTSiUOil.
179
fo the whites ; and if they were not all of one heart,
they would be able to accomplish nothing ; that the
chiefs should set the example and love each other, and
not get proud and haughty, but consider the people as
their brothers and their children, and labor to do them
good ; that the people should be obedient, and in their
morning and evening prayers^ they should remember
their chiefs. m
Liberty was then given for the chiefs to speak, and
Ellis remarked that it would not be proper for the Nez
Perce chiefs to speak until the Kayuse people should
receive the laws. The Kayuse chiefs replied, " If you
want us to receive the laws, bring them forward and let
us see whem, as we cannot take them unlese we know
what they are."
A speech was then delivered to the young men to
impress them favorably with regard to the laws. They
were told that they would «oon take the places of the
old men, and they should be wiUing to act for the good
of the people ; that they should not go here and there
and spreael false oports about war ; and that this had
been the cause ol rll the difficulty and excitement which
had prevailed among them during the past winter.
The laws were then read, first in Enghsh, and then in
the Nez Perce.
Yellow Serpent then rose and said : ** I have a mes-
sage to you. V/here are these laws from] Are they
from God or fr.)m the earth 1 I would that you might
say, they were from Grod. But I think they are from
the earth, because, from what I know of white men,
they do not honor these laws.
In answer to this, the people were informed that the
laws were recognized by God, and imposed on men in
all civilized countries. Yellow Serpent was pleased
v'ith the explanation, and said that it was according to
the instructions he had re*, ved from others, and he was
very glad to learn that it was so, because many of his
people had been angry with him when he had whipped
them for crime, and had told him that God would send
him to heii for it, and he was glad to know that it was
pleasing to God."
1 '^
■!^
180
ffOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
:"?-
i^'
■
Telaukaikt, a Kayuse chief, rose and said : ** What do
you read the laws for before we take them ] We do
not take the laws because Tauitau says so. He is a
Catholic, and as a people we do not follow his worship. "^
Dr. White replied that this did not make any diflference
about law ; that the people in the States had different
jpodes of worship, yet all had one law.
Then a chief, called the Prince, arose and said : " I
understand you gave as liberty to examine every law —
all the words and lines — and as questions are asked
about it, we should get a better understanding of it.
The people of this country have but one mind about it.
I have something to say, but perhaps the people will
dispute me. As a body, we have not had an opportunity
to consult, therefore you come to us as in a wind, and
speak to us as to the air, as we have no point, and we
cannot speak because we have no point before us. The
business before us is whole, like a body we have not
dissected it. And perhaps you will say that it is out ot"
place for me to speak, because I am not a great chiel".
Once I had influence, but now I have but little."
Here he was about to sit down, but was told to go on.
He then said, — " When the whites first came among us,
we had no cattle, they have given us none ; what we
have now got we have obtamed by an exchange of
property. A long time ago Lewis and Clark came to
this country, and 1 want to know what they said about
us. Did they say that they found friends or enemies
here]" Being told that they spoke well of the Indians,
the prince said, " that is a reason why the whites should
unite with us, and all become one people. Those who
have been here before you, have left us no memorial of
their kindness, by giving us presents. We speak by
way of favor. If you have any benefit to bestow, we
will then speak more freely. One thing that we can
speak about is cattle, and the reason why we cannot
s})eak out now is because we have not the thing before
us. My people are poor and blind, and we must have
something tangible. Other chiefs have bewildered me
since they came ; yet I am from an honorable stock.
ago,
TOUB TO THE INTERI01»
161
^hat do
We do
le is a
)r8hip."
Terence
ifferent
lid: "I
Jaw —
asked
r of it.
out it.
)le will
)rtunity
nd, and
and wc
». The
ave not
J out of
t chief.
) go on.
ong us,
hat we
nge of
ame to
1 about
jnemies
[ndians,
should
•se who
>rial of
eak by
3w, we
ive can
cannot
before
It have
•ed me
stock.
Promises which have been made to me and my fathers,
have not been fulfilled, and I am made miserable ; but it
will not answer for me to speak out, for my people do
not consider me as their chief. One thing more ; you
have reminded me of what was promised me sometime
ago, and I am inclined to follow on and see ; though I
have been giving my beaver to the whites, and nave
received many promises, and have always been disap
pointed. I want to know what you are going to do."
Illutin, or Big Belly, then arose and said, that the
old men were wearied with the wickedness of the young
men. That if he was alone, he could say yes at once
to the laws, and that the reason why the young men did
not feel as he felt was because they had stolen property
in their hands, and the laws condemned stealinff. But
he assured them that thi laws were calculated to do
them good, and not evil.
But this did not satisfy the prince. He desired that
the good which it was proposed to do them by adopting
the laws, might be put in a tangible form before tnem.
He said that it had been a long time since the country
had been discovered by whites, and that ever since that
time, people had been coming along, and promising to
do them good ; but th^ had all passed by and left no
blessing behind them. That the Hudson's Bay Company
had persuaded them to continue with them, and not go
after the Americans ; that if the Americans designed to
do them good why did they not bring go >ds with them
to leave with the Indians 1 that they were fools to listen
to what the Yankees had to say ; that they would only
talk, but the company would both talk and give them
presents.
In reply to this the Doctor told them that he did not
come to them as a missionary, nor as a trader.
It was now nearly night, but just before the meeting
closed a gun was fired in one of the lodges, and directly
John, the Hawaiian, came running to the house with
his hand up to his head, and the blood running down
his face, and as he came into the assembly he cried out
i
iB»
T9VR TO TUB INTERIOR.
¥* ■:,
r > -'i
■f I . ^
1
with great agitation, '* Indian, he kille me 1 Indian, he
killemel''
John had been to the lodge for the purpose of trading
wifh the young Indians, and the Indians became angry
at John and threatened to shoot him. John told them
that they darV not do it, and one of them instantly seized
a musket and lodged the contents of it in the side of
John's head. Fortunately there was no ball in the gun,
consequently the results were not serious, though a hole
was cut to the bone, an inch^ in diameter.
In the evening Ellis and Lawyer came in to have a
talk. They said they expected pay for being chiefs, and
wished to know how much salary Dr. White wafe going
to give them. Ellis said he had counted the months he
had been in office, and thought that enough was due him
to make him rich. They left at a late hour without
receiving any satisfaction. .»%i
Wednesday, 24th. Some hundreds again assembled
to resume the business relative to laws ; but the first
thing investigated was the shooting of John. The Indian,
immediately after committing the deed, had fled, but the
chiefs took summary measures to bring him back. He
was brought before the assembly and found guilty of
the crime, but the sentence was postponed until they
received the laws.
The Indians then continued to speak in reference to the
laws, and their speeches were grave, energetic, mighty
and eloquent, and generally in favor of receiving the laws.
After all had spoken it was signified that thoy were
ready for the vote whether they would take the laws or
not, and the vote was unanimous in the affirmative.
Having adopted the laws, it was now necessary to elect
their chiefs, according to the provisions of the law ; and
Tauitau was nominated to tF.j high chieftainship. Some
were opposed ; a majority were in favor, and while the
?[uestion was pending Tauitau rose and said: "My
riends, my friends, I rise to speak to you, and I want
you all to listen." He then adverted to their past histo-
ries, and told them how much thev had suffered in
TOUR TO THE INTERIOB*
188
Sun,
Die
in
consequence of their divisions and quarrels, and then
inquired if they would lay aside all their past difficulties,
and come up and support kim, if he would accept of the
chieftainship.
It was now time to close for that day, and the vote
being put, Tauitau was declared duly elected to the high
chieftainship of the Kayuse tribe. Before the meeting
adjourned. Dr. White . presented the Indians with a fat
ox which he bought of the mission, and Mrs. Whitman
gave them a fat hog. These they butchered directly,
and feastf.d upcn them till ten o'clock at night, when all
was consumed.
Thursday, 25th. A number of the chiefs came early in
morning at our request, to settle a difficulty concerning
some horses which they gave to Rev. Jason Lee, when
he first came to Oregon, Mr. Lee having requested us to
ccHfne to an arrangement with them, if possible. After
a long talk, we succeeded in settling with them by propo-
sing to give them a cow for each horse that they had
given Mr. Lee. We found that the Indians always ex-
pect to be well paid for a present.
After this the Indians again assembled, and Tauitau
came forward and certified that he had made up his
mind that he could not accept of the chieftainship in
consequence of the difference of his religion from that
of the most of his people. He was accordingly excused
from serving, and Five Crows, his brother, was immedi-
ately nominated. When the virtues and firmness of
Five Crows were spoken of, the people exclaimed, " our
hearts go towards nim with a rush." His election was
nearly unanimous, and highly pleasing to the whites, of
whom he is a great friend, particularly of the Americans.
He was so affected when his appointment was announced,
that he wept It required but a short time to elect the
subordinate chiefs, after which Mr. Perkins and myself
addressed the meeting on the subject of the discovery
of the country by Americans, their settling in it, and the
necessity of living together on friendly terma; and then
the meeting, which had been continued for four days, and
at some stages of which the utmost excitement had pre-
Ml
I'iv' ^ ^
184
T0UR TO THE INTERIOR.
vailed, came to a peaceful conclusion, and all went about
preparing for the closing feast.
A second ox was butchered, cut into small pieces and
boiled. It was then spread out upon the grass, and cut
into mouthfuls, put on to plates, pans, pail covers, and
pieces of boards, and placed along in the centre of a
large temporary lodge, made of skins, and about seventy-
five feet long. The people were then all called together,
and took their seats on the ground, ourselves being con-
ducted by the chiefs to some seats of skins prepared on
the windward side of the lodge, so that we would be
secure from the sit^oke, all, when seated, forming a
lengthened ring around the food, three and four persons
deep. Five Crows called the table to order, when a
blessing was asked; then several Indiana passed around
the meat to all present, the number, as near as we could
judge, being six hundred, embracing, men, women and
« hildren. Fingers were used instead of forks, and the
•lattering of teeth and smacking of lips served as music
while the process of mastication was going on. All
seemed intent upon the business before them; laws,
speeches, and war, were lost sight of, and the eating of
the ox absorbed every other consideration. It was only
necessary for each person to eat one pound, and all
would be consumed. In twenty minutes the ox which,
three hours before, was peacefully feeding on the prairie,
was lodged in the stomachs of six hundred Indians.
After the feast Ellis arose and said that it was fashionable
among the Indians for all the chiefs to unite with the
whites at such a time as this, in smoking the pipe, in
token of their alliance and friendship. Accordingly, the
pipe of peace was brought forward. Its stem was one
inch in diameter, and three feet long, and the bowl four
inches long and two in diameter, and made out of a spe-
cies of dark free-stone. Ellis passed it around, to the
chiefs first, and then to the whites, after which speeches
were delivered by Five Crows, Ellis, Lawyer, Brothers,
Tauitau, and Yellow Serpent; a season of prayer fol-
lowed and the scene was closed. Next morning the
Indians all came to give us the friendly hand before we
*
TOUR TO THE INTBRIOS.
186
J'
about
we
parted; and the chiefs informed us that they had sen-
tenced the Indian who shot John to a punishment of forty
lashes on his bare back. Thus closed our negotiations,
and the immense crowd of Indians, taking their leave,
returned to their homes in the utmost order. In the
evening all was still, and, walkinff out to the camping
ground where the fires were still blazing, I found but one
solitary old Indian, wno was boiling up the feet of the
ox for his next day's supplies.
Saturday, 27th. The forenoon was employed in pre-
paring to return home; and at one, p. m., took our depar-
ture from Waialetpu. Mrs. Whitman accompanied us
back to the lower country. Traveled fourteen miles,
and encamped for the Sabbath on a branch of the Walla-
Walla River, called the Tusha, near its mouth. The
land along the Walla- Walla and its tributaries is gener-
ally very fertile, except in those places where it is
strongly impregnated with sal soda. The face of the
country is truly beautiful.
Monday, 29th. Moved camp, and proceeding a few
miles, met the Rev. Mr. Bells from Tshimkain, a mission
station among the Spokan Indians. He was on his way
to Waialetpu and Lapwai, and thence home. He gave
us an account of his mission, rather discouraging upon
the whole, from the opposition arrayed against him from
the Catholics. Leaving him to pursue his journey alone,
we continued on to fort Walla- Walla, and dined with
Mr. McKinley, who has charge of it. Here Mrs. Whit-
man decided to stop for the arrival of the Hudson's Bay
Company's brigade of boats from the upper forts, which
was expected in a day or two, preferring that mode of
conveyance to riding on horse-back. After dinner we
crossed the Walla- Walla river, and desiring to make
some observations in the vicinity, encamped for the night.
Towards evening I walked out alone to take a view of
the burying ground of the Walla- Walla tribe. It was
whitened with the bones of horses that had been slain
over the graves of their owners, while here and there
could be seen a human skull lying by the side of a
horse's head. One of the most singular cases o^ volun
8*
i
te
f'V.
i
166
TOUR TO TUB INTERIOR.
J »
nh
tary interment recorded in the annals of heathen super-
stition, took place in this buryinj^ ground some twenty-
five years ago. There resided in this vicinity a man
belonging to the Walla- Walla tribe, who, rising by his
own merits, became the most successful warrior, and re-
nowned chieftain of which the Walla- Wallas could ever
boast. During his life, his people were the terror of all
the surrounding tribes; and wherever he led them out
against the enemy, he was sure to bring them back in
triumph, bearing the nur.^erous trophies of his victories
in the form of scalps, muskets, shields, &lc. These he
hung as so many ornaments, to the sides of his lodge.
Years of uninterrupted prosperity passed, and the old
man saw his five sons grow up by his side. As they
arrived to manhood, they strikingly resembled himself,
not only in their tall, athletic and commanding forms,
but also in their astonishing bravery and indomitable will.
His word was the law oi his tribe, and he had learned
even his own people to tremble at his nod. His voice
of command was never disobeyed, whether raised amidst
the tumult of battle, the quiet of his village, or at the
fire side of his own wigwam. He was justly prciud of
his sons, and saw, in the changeless afiTection they bore
to their father, their love to one another, arid their unri-
valed talents, not only his own comfort and support in
old age, when he would become useless, but also the
continued prosperity of his beloved tribe.
But a cloud was rising to darken the prospects of the
aged chief. His eldest son, the glory of the tribe, the
heir to the chieftainship, was slain in battle, and the old
man's grief was inconsolable. But he had other sons,
and around them clustered his hopes. His eldest living
one was now the heir, and every way qualified to suc-
ceed him, but he had not ceased wailing for the eldest
before the second was cut down; and then the third, and
the fourth, some in battle, and some bv disease. Now
his youngest, Benjamin, alone was left; and the cup
of the old man's grief was nearly full. Bitterly did he
complain of that cruel fate that had bereft him of his
sons, and he found consolation only in the refle-Zi'v^ that
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
187
they had been great warriors, and every way worthy of
their father. But now they were dead, and all his affec-
tions centered in his youngest boy. Surely, thought he,
my only remaining son of five, as noble as ever father
could boast, will hve to be my support in my declining
years; he will be my staff when my palsied limbs can
scarcely bear me in and out of my wigwam; he will close
my eyes when I lie down to die; he will mourn over my
grave when I am buried; he will heir my property when
I am no more, and as chief of the Walla- Walla nation
he will follow in the footsteps of his father.
But disease was already preying upon the vitals of that
beloved son, and the father felt his last prop crumble
beneath him, as his son expired before his eyes. Like a
person under the influence of some desperate resolution,
he left the wigwam where lay the wreck of his hopes,
and went to K»rt Walla- Walla, which was commanded
by Englishmen, and told them of the death of his last
son, and requested them to make arrangements to have
him buried according to the English custom. Comply-
ing with his request, the dead body was put into a comn,
the funeral service read, and the dark procession moved
to the grave, the people showing the sincerity of their
sorrow by bitter wailing and tears; but the old man's
grief was too deep thus to find relief. The cofliin was
lowered into the deep dug grave, and the bearers were
about to fill it with earth, when the old man stepped upon
the grave*s mouth and examined the dark abode of his
son, then commanded them to desist until he had deliv-
ered a message to the people. With a countenance
indicating a settled purpose of soul, he looked around
upon his beloved people, whose wailings had already
given place to a death-like silence, and commanded them
to listen to the trembling voice of their old chief, while
he delivered to them his last speech. He then rehearsed
before them the history of his life, painting, in glowing
colors, the successes which had invariably attended him in
the numerous wars in which he had been involved, with
the surrounding tribes; the splendid trophies taken from
the enemy with which his lodge was adorned, and the
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188
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
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elevated position to which he had raised the Walla-
Wallas, by the prowess of his arm ; and then with a
heart throbbing with emotion he traced the history of
his doting sons. He had sustained them in mfancy; he
had taught them to love and to obey him; he had trained
them to be warriors; he had seen them rush bravely
into the deadly fight, and bear off the palm of victory;
and he had fondly hoped that they would have long
survived him. But a cruel fate had robbed him of his
boys; his last hope had perished, the sun of his pros-
perity had set, and left him surrounded with the darkness
of despair; and he was now like a tree whose branches
had been broken off, and whose trunk had been shattered
to pieces by the successive strokes of the thunder-bolt.
And then assuring them that no entreaty should prevent
him from accomplishing his design, he announced to them
the startling fact, that he had resolved not to survive the
burial of his youngest son; and rushing into the grave
he stretched Himself upon the coffin of his son, and com-
manded the people to bury him with his beloved boy.
A general burst of lamentation from the multitude sur-
rounding the grave rose upon the breeze as the last com-
mand of the mighty chief was as promptly obeyed as
any he had ever issued in the day of battle. Thus
perished the glory of the Walla- Walla nation.
Fort Walla- Walla is situated on the left bank of the
Colum.bia, just above the mouth of the Walla- Walla
River. It may more properly be called a trading post,
as it looks but little like a fort except that two or three
small buildings are enclosed in an adobe y wall, about
twelve feet high. The company and some private indi-
viduals met with considerable loss, not long ago, from
the burning of this fort, which was supposed to have
been fired by the Indians. The land around is very
barren, though the face of the country is good. The
company cultivate a farm about three miles from the
fort, on the banks of the Walla- Walla.
Tuesday, 30th. Rode sixty-five miles, but on the 31st,
both man and beast were so fatigued that we were una-
ble to travel more than twenty-five miles. During this
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
189
day I proceeded on in advance of the party about one
mile, and stopping my horse, dismounted, and took my
blanket from my saddle, threw it upon the ground, lay
down upon it, and instantly dropt into a sound sleep.
There I should doubtless have remained for hours, if one
of the party, who had fallen in the rear, had not awak-
ened me, the others having passed within a few feet
without my knowing it.
Thursday, June 1st. Arrived at the mission station
below the Dalls, where we met with news from the
lower country, ships having arrived in the Columbia
River, bringing letters, goods and passengers for Oregon.
As Dr. White expected to be detained some time at the
Dalls, I resolved to proceed homeward the first oppor-
tanity. Fortunately the brigade of boats for which
Mrs. Whitman awaited at Walla- Walla, arrived at the
Dalls a few hours after we did ; and applying to Mr.
Ogden, who had command of the brigade, I obtained a
passage in his boat down the Colunibia River to Fort
Vancouver. The boats were nine in number, each ca-
pable of carrying five or six tons ; all loaded with fura
which had been collected in the vast interior, and now
on their way to the general depot at Vancouver, where
they were to be examined, dried, packed and shipped
for London. Associated with Mr. Ogden were Mr.
McDonald, and Mr. Ermatinger, the two former being
chief factors in the company, and the latter a chief tra-
der, both honorable and lucrative offices. Sixty men
were required to man the boats, and these were all
French Canadians, and half-caste Iroquois.
We all remained at the Dalls over night, and on Fri-
day, the 2d of June, moved down the river a few miles,
and were met with a head wind, which soon blew to a
gale, compelling us to put to shore, which we succeeded
in gaining with some difficulty, breaking one of our
boats against the rocks, in the attempt. Here we were
detained for some hours, during which Mr. Ogden rela-
ted some of his wonderful adventures among the Indians
with whom he had resided for more than thirty years.
He was an eve witness to a remarkable circumstance
i;
is-
•f
..^
190
TOUR TO THK INTERIOR.
that transpired at the Dalls, during one of his voyages
up the Columbia. He arrived at the Dalls on the Sab-
bath day, and seeing a congregation of some three hun-
dred Indians assembled not far from the river, he drew
near to ascertain the cause, and found the Rev. H. K.
W. Perkins diopensing to them the word of reconcilia-
tion, through a crucified Redeemer. There was sitting
in the outskirts of the congregation an Indian woman
who had been, for many years, a doctress in the tribe,
and who had just expended all her skill upon a patient,
the only son of a man whose wigwam was not far dis-
tant, and for the recovery of whose son she had become
responsible, by consenting to become his physician. All
her efforts to remove the disease were unavailing, the
father was doomed to see his son expire. Believing that
the doctress had the power of preserving life or inflicting
death according to her will, and that instead of curing
she had killed his boy, he resolved upon the most sum-
mary revenge. Leaving his dead son in the lodge, he
broke into the congregation with a large butcher-knife
in his hand, and rushing upon the now terrified doctress,
seized her by the hair, and with one blow across her
throat, laid her dead at his feet.
The wind continued to blow until nearly midnight,
when a loud call from the pilot warned us that we must
leave camp. Though it was very dark, the voyageurs
were well acquainted with the river, and continued to
ply the oars until three o'clock in the morning, when
they brouffht up a few miles above the cascades, to wait
for dayhght. In the morning proceeded to the cascades,
where we were detained for several hours, while the
voyageurs carried their boats and furs across a portage
of half a mile.
The portage was made, and the boats again loaded,
but still there were fearful rapids below, which they de-
signed to run. Mr. Ogden preferring to walk across a
point of land down to the foot of the first rapid, I vol-
unteered to accompany him, and coming to an eddy
below ti>e point, we awaited the arrival of the boats.
Soon the first came, booming around the point, and
TOUR TO THE INTERIOR.
191
thrown violently up and down by the rolling current ,
then the second, and the third, and so on, till the whole
nine appeared in sight. Only two of them gained the
eddy, in one of which was Mrs. Whitman; all the others
were borne down the tumbling torrent with fearful furv,
and it appeared to us on shore, that they must inevitably
be lost. One only was capsized, and its craw of eight
men struggled hard in the mighty current, until they
were all picked up by the other boats, some of them
being quite exhausted, and one so far gone that it was
with considerable difficulty that he was restored. The
boat also, with all its cargo, was saved. After this we
were highly favored with respect to wind and current,
and on Sunday, at two o'clock, p. m., we arrived in
safety at Fort Vancouver.
Monday, the 5th. Procured a passage in one of the
company's barges to the Wallamette Falls ; and the fol-
lowing day a ride on horseback of fifty miles brought
me back to my own dwelling, having, since I left home,
performed a journey of one thousand miles.
I ■;■*«," "^-
.' : >
;»■-
,.f
CHAPTER X.
Homeward bound — Departure from Oregon — Lost in a fog — Vancouver — Unex-
pected meeting — Night running — Labor lost — Dreary encampment — Sabbatk
• —Pillar Rock — Fort George — Clatsop Plains — A whale — Entertainment •—
Embarkation — Detention — Great cave — Weigh anchor — Remarkable escape
from shipwreck — Driven back-- Second trial successful — Voyage — Manl —
Night danger — Arrival at Oahu — Shipping — English fleet — News from home
— Rev. Jason Lee — "Hoa Tita" — Affecting separation — Admiral Thomas —
Great alarm — Detention — How improved.
f ': ■
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Late in the fall of 1843, information was received on
the Wallamatte that the English barque Columbia was
about to sail from Vancouver to the Sandwich Islands,
and would take a certain number of passengers. Ac-
cordingly, Rev. Jason Lee, John Ricord, Esq., of New
York, and myself and family, engaged passage ; Mr.
Ricord at three dollars per day, and the rest of us at
two and a half each, the half dollar being deducted in
consequence of our being missionaries. Mr. Lee and
myself designed, after arriving at the Sandwich Islands,
to take the first opportunity to proceed to the United
States, but Mr. Kicord designed to remain at the
Islands.
Having made the necessary arrangements, and put all
our baggage into one of the company's batteaux to take
to the vessel, we took a small boat in tow, in which we
intended to proceed from Vancouver down the Columbia.
At dark we took leave of our friends, who stood on the
banks of the river to witness our departure. There
being a good moon, we did not apprehend much difficulty
in running in the night, as we were well acquainted with
the river, and we were willing to venture a little to get
our baggage on board, before the vessel dropped down
the Columbia. Proceeding on till a late hour at night,
•■•'i
'^:ii;
I10M£WARD BOUND.
198
we lost ourselves in a dense fog, and supposing that by
some unaccountable twist we had got turned about, and
were going the wrong way, we resolved as soon as
posisble to make the shore. Finding a place where we
could fasten our boats we remained quiet until morning.
At nine o'clock the fog had disappeared, and thereby
disclosing the shores to our view, enabled us to ascertain
our position. Moving forward, we labored hard with
our oars during the day, and at dark came along side of
the vessel which lay in the Columbia a short distance
above the mouth of the Wallamette. Leaving all our
baggage, except such as we should need on our trip down
the Columbia, we passed on, and at nine in the evening
arrived at Vancouver ; but as the gates of the fort were
closed, we were obliged to encamp on the beach for the
night.
Having accomplished our business, on the 6th we took
our leave of our hospitable friends at Vancouver, but
the tide being against us, we made slow headway. At
seven o'clock, p. m., however, we came up with the ship,
and being invited by Captain Humphries, we spent a
comfortable night on board. Next morning proceeded
on in our small boat, and as there was no wmd to favor
the ship, we soon left her behind. At two o'clock, p. m.,
passed the mouth of the Multnomah, and landed a short
time at the point where, in 1835, Capt. Wyeth attempted
to establish a trading post, but failed, as every other
such attempt has done, from coming in contact with, and
meeting the opposition of, the Hudson's Bay Company.
A little below this point we stopped to dine, on a fine
gravelly beach, and while preparing our dinner, several
canoes appeared below us, moving up the stream. Dis-
covering our smoke, they made for the point, and on
coming to the shore, we found, in one of the canoes,
Mr. W. W. Raymond and his family, who were on their
way from Clatsop, at the mouth of the river, up to the
Wallamette. Mr. Raymond was employed as a farmer
at a mission station established on the Clatsop plains.
With them we spent a pleasant hour, during which we
regaled ourselves upon an unusual variety for such a
^1,
194
HOMEWARD B0I7ND.
'^^
1
time, our dinner consisting of beef, pork, potatoes, bread,
butter, pie, cake, and raspberry preserves ; but we
feasted with the expectation of suffering hunger before
we arrived at Clatsop, if the winds and weather did not
favor our progress. Taking leave of our friends, we
departed from our delightful encampment, and with the
tide in our favor, proceeded on our voyage. Night
came on, and a dense fog rendered it difficult to run ;
nevertheless we concluded there could be little danger
of our going wrong so long as we felt the force of the
tide bearing us downward ; but we soon found that we
were missing our way, and running in behind an island,
at the lower end of which a sand-bar had formed across
the channel, on which the water was so shallow that we
could not pass with our boat. Backing around, we
rowed hard for an hour, when we found ourselves again
at the head of the island, and by this time the darkness
was somewhat dispelled by the rising moon, and we
ventured to i*un on until midnight.
Mooring our boat in a little bay among the rocks, we
clambered up on the side of a mountain, covered with a
dense forest, where we spent the remainder of the night.
Our place of encampment presented a striking contrast
to the one we had just left, being among the rugged and
precipitous cliffs which overhung the river on the left-
hand shore, and as everything around had been tho-
roughly soaked with rain we found it exceedingly diffi-
cult to light a fire.
But after burning my fingers to a blister, scorching
my face, and singing off my eye-brows, by flashing
powder, 1 at length accomplished my object, and our
dreary encampment assumed a more cheering aspect.
On Saturday, the 8th, proceeded down as far as Oak
Point, which is about thirty miles above Astoria, and
encamped for the Sabbath under a precipice of rocks on
the opposite side from the point. This precipice, which
rises several hundred feet, is composed of different
layers or strata of irregular, massive amigdaloid and
basalt, and, contrasted with the low flat shore on the
opposite side, presents a very imposing appearance.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
195
Here, amidst the Bolitude of rocks, forest, and water,
we experienced the truth that devotion is not confined
to the damask desks and cushioned seats of refined civil-
ization, but cheers with her presence the lonely and
wandering exile.
Monday, 9th. Ran down to Pillar Rock, fourteen
miles above Astoria, where, being met by the flood-tide,
we were obliged to camp. This rock is a great natural
curiosity. It is a mighty column of basalt standing
alone in the midst of tne river, and though not more
than fifteen or twenty feet in diameter at its base, it
rises perpendicular on all sides to the height of more
than one nundred feet. Remaining here over night, the
next morning we crossed the river diagonally from Pillar
Rock to Tongue Point,, the distance of eleven miles,
without serious accident, though the wind was high, and
the boat took in considerable water. At twelve arrived
at Astoria, where we met with a very cordial reception
from Mr. Birney and his family, whose hospitalities we
shared until the following day. This gentleman is an
officer in the Hudson's Say Company, and one of its
pioneers. In common with all the English and Scotch
magnates of the forest, he possesses the disposition to
entertain strangers, both with the comforts his house
affords, and by narrating his diflferent campaigns, trials,
sufferings, contests with the Indians, and hair-breadth
escapes.
This place is now called Fort George by the English^
but doubtless will resume the name of Ast ' 'a when it
is settled that the country belongs to the L -d States.
In the afternoon of the 10th, Kev. J. L. Parrish, who
is employed as a missionary among the Indians on the
Clatsop Plains, came from Point Adams across the mouth
of Young's Bay in a canoe, and met us at the fort, de-
signing to proceed up the river to visit some Indian clans
in the vicinity of the Katlamette Islands ; but falling in
with us, he resolved to return, and the next morning
took us all in his large canoe safely to Point Adams,
though the bay was quite rough from the effects of a
strong east wind. From Point Adams south to a high
<i w i'
Wi
196
HOMEWARD BOUND*
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■ U
1-
promontory called Kilemook's Head, the distance of
twenty-five miles, is a broad sand beach, which at low-
tide constitutes a splendid road.
On our landing on the point, an Indian was dispatched
with a note to inform Mtb. Parrish of our arrival, and
to procure a horse and cart to carry us and our baggage
down the beach, the distance of seven miles, to their
residence. At sunset our transportation was accom-
plished, and we found ourselves comfortably situated
with our kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Parrish, on what is
called the Clatsop Plains.
It is only necessary for one to walk up from tide water
about one hundred feet to the top of tne first ridge, to
become convinced that these undullating plains have
been formed by the constant accumulation of sands, de-
posited by the ceaseless action of the waves of the
Pacific ocean. They are about twenty miles long, and
from one to two and a half miles broad, and contain
about forty square miles. There is a tract of timbered
land lying between the prairie and Young's Bay, con-
taining twice the amount of land there is in the plains.
The timber is of a very good quality, and comprises fir,
spruce, pine, cedar, hemlock, and alder. There is little
doubt but that all this tract of land, which now lies only
a few feet above the level of the ocean, was once entire-
ly submerged; that from Cape Disappointment to Kile-
mook Head, the distance of thirty miles, and from the
present mouth of the Columbia to Tongue Point, the
distance of fifteen miles, it was once a large bay, and
that the level tract of country back of Point Adams,
comprising Clatsop Plains, and the tract of woodland
above mentioned, have been formed by the sand and
various vegetable substances that, from time immemorial,
have washed down the Columbia River, and have been
deposited here by the continued action of the tide. The
evidences of this are, first, the fact that the soil is of the
same alluvial character that is found on the shores of the
river above; and, second, there are several ridges, or
undulations, which extend the entire length of the plains,
and curve precisely ^ith the shore, and which all appear
i
ii'Js
i
Ik.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
197
.>
to have successiveh' formed the boundary of the Pacific
ocean. Some of these ridges appear in the woods, and
large trees have grown on the top of them, which proves
that this tract has been forming for hundreds of years.
The soil, if we may judge from the immense growth of
grass and weeds on the plains, is of a superior quality.
The location is delightful, the scenery of ocean and
mountain on a grand scale, and evidently this will be one
of the most valuable portions of Oregon. At present,
I, there are six American citizens settled on the plains, and
as many more have taken claims.
On Thursday, the 21st, we received a note from Cap-
tain Humphries, informing us that the ship had arrived
at Fort George; and taking leave of our friends on the
Clatsop Plains, we proceeded up the beach towards the
mouth of the Columbia.
On our way we fell in with a fin back whale that had
been driven ashore by the fury of the south-west ^ales.
Though this is a common occurrence, more or less being
driven up every year, yet it is considered by the settlers
and Indians on the plains, as a very lucky event. It is a
rule among both classes, that when a whale is driven
ashore, each one is entitled to all he can get. When we
discovered the object, Mr. Lee, Mr. Ricord and myself,
were in advance of the rest of the party, and in our
rear were a number of Indians, who were going up to
row us across Young's Bay to Fort George, and Mr.
Solomon Smith, an American who resides on the plains,
and who had kindly taken Mrs. H. and the children into
his cart to carry them up to point Adams. When Smith
first discovered the object, he exclaimed, " Who knows
but that Providence has sent me up out of the ocean
fifty dollars'? Yonder is something that looks like a
whale." We were all speedily up with the object. Smith
and the Indians manifesting as much joy at their good
luck as a man would feel who had unexpectedly received
an immense fortune; and they all seemed instantly to
forget that they were going to assist us up to fort George.
Smith having no other instrument than a jack knife, and
fearing that the Indians who were just behind, would
V t
196
HOMEWARD BUUNO.
II
I S' .r^ '
1
' I
li
get more than he, left his horse and cart standing in the
centre of the wide beach, sprang nimbly on to the car-
case of the huge monster, and with his Knife traced that
fiortion of the animal to which he intended to lay claim.
t was somewhat pleasing to observe that the Indians, in
their selections, paid the utmost respect to the pre-emption
right of Mr. Smith. Here was no jumping of claims,
but as one after another arrived, all were satisfied to
select from that part of the vast surface of the whale
around which lines had not been run. We witnessed
the dividing of the spoil a short time, and not being able
to get either Smith or the Indians to proceed any farther
till they had secured all the blubber, I took the cart in
charge. At. sundown we encamped on Point Adams,
contenting ourselves with the idea that when the south-
easter, which by this time began to rage, had abated, and
the whale had all been removed from the beach by its
despoilers, we should be able to cross Young's Bay to
fort George, where the barque Columbia lay at anchor.
TJtie storm continued until the 23d, when Mr. Parrish
came up with a number of Indians and took us across
the bay. We were entertained over the Sabbath in the
house of Mr. Birney, where I preached the gospel to
some twenty-five persons, embracing the crew of the
barque, the passengers, and the residents of Fort George.
On the 25tn, we were required, by the Captain, to em-
bark, but as the wind was contrary, we were obliged to
remain until the 26th, when we weighed anchor and ran
down to Baker's Bay. This bay is the common anchor-
age for ships after coming into the river and before going
out.
On leaving Fort George we were in hopes immediate-
ly to pass over the bar of the Columbia, but on arriving
at Baker's Bay the wind became adverse, and, with the
prospect of a violent and tedious storm from the south
and west, we came to anchor snug under Cape Disap-
pointment, that we might be sheltered from the fury of
winds and waves. v :«» . ,
Though ftt present it is a most dreary axii barbarous
kkokipg region around Baker's 3ay> yet^ aiiCape IJtep-
HOMEWARD BOUND.
100
s in the
lie ear-
ned that
y claim,
iians, in
emption
claims,
sfied to
J whale
tnessed
ing alile
farther
cart in
Adams,
3 south-
ted, and
h by its
Bay to
anchor.
Parrish
} across
h in the
3spel to
' of the
George.
, to em-
iiged to
and ran
anchor-
•e going
lediate-
irriving
i^ith the
e south
Disap-
fury of
rbarous
I>isap-
pointment must always be the guide of the mariner into
the mouth of the river, and as the bay is the only safe
anchorage, and vessels are always more or less detained
in passing in and out, this must eventually become a
place of considerable maritime importance. This is the
only entrepot of the country, and consequently all
supplies must pass either way through this channel. This
liver is the thoroughfare on which must be conveyed
everything that goes to and from the interior, and, judg-
ing from the rapidity with which the country is filling
up, the time is not far distant when steamboats will be
Hying up and down this river, as they are now seen on
the Hudson and Mississippi. Three places offer facili-
ties for the establishment of the grand depot for the
country, which must be located somewhere near the
mouth of the river. These are the shore of Baker's
Bay, back of Cape Disappointment, the east side of Point
Adams, and old Astoria. One of these places may
doubtless be contemplated as the location of some future
splendid commercial city, say the New York of the
west.
While in Baker's Bay we experienced a very disa-
greeable detention of forty days, during which the storm
from the south and west, continued to rage, with unceas-
ing violence. Day after day Captain Humphries and
myself would climb to the top of Cape Disappointment,
and look off on the broad expanse of the Pacific, and
contemplate the majesty of the ocean as she rolled her
mountam billows, and dashed them successively against
the base of the mighty rock on which we stood. The
huge swell, rolling m from the south-west, would break
with fearful grandeur the entire width of the channel
across the bar of the Columbia, and the thick haze dark-
ening the horizon corroborated the indications of the
barometer, that the storm had not yet abated.
Occasionally, however, we were able to extend our
walks along the shore north of the Cape, and view what-
ever of interest presented itself. Here is a cave extend-
ing into the rock one hundred and fifty feet, and
Goaismns the bones of aninovLl^ trunks of Ur^s, and
200
HOMEWARD BOUND.
f''', i
m:
'Up
other substances, which the tide has there deposited.
The country around presents an tispect wild beyond
description. ■•■•'- .uy»>,-^|,i#r. 0^^-^:
On the morning of the 31st of January, the wind blew
fair from the north-west, and having been detained
already beyond all endurance, the Captain ^esolved to
make an effort to get to sea, though from the top of the
Cape the mountain swell could be seen breaking across
the channel. Accordingly, we weighed anchor, and
soon passed Cape Disappointment, and steeret^ for the
channel across the dreaded bar. The Captain took his
position on the foretop, and had not proceeded mce than
one mile and a half before he was convinced that iie was
premature in leaving the bay, as the bar was ''till too
rough to attempt to cross. The anchor was immediately
let go, and the Captain determined to remain where he
was for an hour, in hopes that the ebb tide would run
down the high sea on the bar, so as to admi* of our
crossing in safety. Again the; anchor was raised, and
the Captain resumed his position on the foretop, but as
we approached what are called the north br'^akera, he
came running down with great perturbation, ar 1 informed
us th; * the huge sea was still breaking ent ely across
the channel, and that there was no prospec , if we at-
tempted to cross, of saving either the vessel r our lives.
To cast anchor where we were would b*^ imminently
dangerous, but there was no alternative, a? t was impos-
sible for us to get back into the bay. A jordingly, wo
hauled to, and dropt our anchor withii a few cable's
length of the north sands. The wind was blowing a
gale, and a tremendous swell came rolling over the sand
bar, and threatened instantly to overwhelm us, while the
vessel was tossed about with the greatest violence. As
if to add terror to the gloomy prospect before us, night
came on, and enveloped us in total darkness. Loud
nowled the wind, and the mighty breakers, rolling in
majestic grandeur over the sand bar at the north of the
channel, angrily shook their white locks around us during
the whole night. If the vessel had dragged her anchor,
or parted her cable, she must inevitably have been de-
HOMEWARD BOUND.
201
i
stroyed, and all on board have perished, as no small-boat
could have lived in that sea for a single moment.
In addition to the miseries of seasickness, during that
dismal night, the horrors of shipwreck were vividly por-
trayed before us as we theught of the ship Isabelle,
which was cast away upon a sand-bar ^)ut a short dis-
tance from our stern, of the William and Ann which was
wrecked on tiife same bar in 1838, with twenty-six per-
sons on board, not one of whom was left to describe >the
circumstances of the lamentable catastrophe; and of the
United States' ship Peacock, which wa« lost on the north
sand-bar, but a little distance from where we lay. But
an ever watchful Providence interposed in our behalf ;
the wind lulled about daylight,, and hauled around a few
pointis; the sea became measurably pacified, and at sun-
rise we stood back for Buker's Bay, where we again let
go our anchor, to await a more propitious time for
embarkation. i^f^v^ * -
We had not to wait long, f6T on the 8d day of Febru-
ary, the mouth of the river being exceedingly smooth,
and the wind from' the noi th-east, Captain Humphries
and myself went once more to the top of Cape Disap-
pointment to take a view of the fearful baf, and pro-
nouncing it passable, at dne o'clock, we weighed anchor,
and spreading our sails to the breeze, passed beautifully
and majestically over the spot where two days before
our gallant barmie wottW have been driven to the bottom
by one break of the'roTR^g surge. - - \j^Tdpfc
A voyage of twenty-four days, dtirfng which we
experien ed a succession of violent gales miusup.l on this
part of the ocean, brought us in sight of the island of
Mauie, which we first savr forty miles distant at two, p.
m., of the 26th of February. At five we made the
island of Oahu, and though during the day we had been
sailing before a reefed topsail breeze, when we came up
with the north end of the island, the wind suddenly fell,
and we found ourselves plunging and rolling over an
exceedingly heavy swell occasioned by a strong scuth
wind, which for some time had prevailed in the vicinity
of the islands. During the night we were drifted some
M
I
nil
M
.a
202
HOMEWARD BOUND*
J*
t/r.
.'fV
'3'
.»■■
I
I
I
distance towards the island of Oahu and began to fear
lest we might be driven ashore, and the absence of wind
prove more destructive than th& gales we had expe-
rienced. In the morning, however, the regular trade set
in, and as it was a fair wind, we were carried quickly
past Diamond Hill, when the city of Honolulu presented
itself to our view. A white flag was raised to the top
of the mast to announce that no epidemic prevailed
among us, and soon after, we were boarded by an old
pilot, who, taking the ship in charge, conducted us along
the narrow zig-zag channel leading through the Coral
Reef which, with this exception, surrounds tfie island of
Oahu, and bringing the vessel up within a few rods of
land, gave orders to " let go the anchor/'
We found a variety of shipping in the harbor, Ameri-
can, English, French, Spanish and some others.
The Dublin line of battle ship lay in the roads the
night previous to our arrival, but so violent warf the
motion of the vessel in consequence of the tremendous
swell that rolled in from the south, that she parted both
her cables, and it was with the utmost difficulty that she
was prevented from driving on the coral reef. A timely
breeze enabled her to remove from her dangerous prox-
imity to land, and after laying off and on until the swell
subsided, she finally came again to anchor in her former
{)osition. The Dublin was the flag ship of a small Eng-
ish fleet under the command of Rear Admiral Thomas,
the hero of the Chinese war, who had been sent from
China by the British government to settle the difficulties
occasioned by the outrageous conduct of Lord George
Paulet-in capturing the Sandwich Islands, and to restore
them back to his Hawaiian majesty.
Soon after we came to anchor, Dr. J. L. Babcock, of
the Oregon mission, who had been on the island for some
months with his family, for the benefit of their health,
came on board, and invited us ashore. They were stop-
ping at the house of John Colcord, where, for the time
being, we also took up our abode.
Immediately after landing, we learned from Dr. Bab-
cock that news had arrived from the islands that Rev.
11
HOMEWARD BOUND.
308
George Gary had been appointed to supersede Rev.
Jason Lee in the superintendency of the Oregon Mis-
sion, and was expected at the islands- on his way to
Oregon, in a few weeks. This information caused us to
hesitate whether to proceed, if we had an opportunity,
or remain until Mr. Gary's arrival. Inquiring whether
there would be any opportunity soon to take passage to
the States, we ascertained that, in all probability, no
vessel would leave the islands for that destination under
several months ; but that a small schooner belonging to
the Hawaiian Government, cdled the "Hoa Tita,"
would sail the next day for Mazatlan, on the coast of
Mexico. Mr. Lee and myself proceeded directly to
the consul to ascertain whether it would be possible to
procure a passage to the coast, but found that one only
could be accommodated on the small craft, and that it
would not be practicable to take a family across the
continent; Thus baffled in our purposes to proceed
together to the United States, we held a council in
which Dr. Babcoek participated, and came to the con-
clusion that, under the circumstances it was our duty to
separate; Mr. Lee to take the ''HoaTita" to Mazatlan,
thence take the route through Mexico to Vera Cruz,
and thence to New Yoi^, and myself and family to take
the brig Chenamus, which would be ready to sail in a
few weeks, and return to Oregon.
With reference to Mr. Lee, no time was to be lost in
preparing for his embarkation, but with the assistance
of the acting consul, Wm. Hooper, Esq., and Mr. Ladd,
everything was soon made ready. Now came one of
the severe trials of missionary Ufe. Mr. Lee had buried
his second wife in Oregon, and was left with a tender
infant, a little girl of three weeks old. Mrs. Hines
received the child from the bed of death to take care of
it so long as Mr. Lee should desire, and after the burial
of its mother he also came to reside in our family. Mr.
Lee looked upon this his only child, as his earthly all,
and no personal consideration would have induced him
to leave her in the care of others, on an island in the
Pacific ocean, and perform a hazardous journey to the
I
I
[if i^sjig ■
. |j '
« i
.ii I
• ■ 'i'
904
HOMEWARD BOUND.
il'
r.*s.f^
ti
f
'w
other side of the ^lobe, with but Uttle prospect of ever
again beholdine his beloved daughter. ^
But with a heart as affectionate as ever beat in the
breast of a man, Mr. Lee never allowed his personal
feelings to control his conduct, when they opposed
themselves to the calls of duty. In his opinion it was
the voice of duty that called him to tear himself away
froip all he held dear upon the earth and return to his
native land. Accordingly, at fhree o'clock, p. m., of the
28th of February, after tenderly committing his mother-
less child to the care of the writer and his companion,
he was conducted to the "Hoa Tita," whieh lay ^at the
wharf, and which, with a fair wind, was soon wafted
from the shores of Oahu towards the Mexican coast.
On the 2d day of March, Rear Admiral Thomas,
having accomplished his mission to the Hawaiians to the
entire satisfaction of both natives and foreigners, took
his leave of Oahu, and amidst the roar of cannon which
saluted him frdm the fort and from the ships of war in
the harbor, he steered his course for the Society Islands.
The following day his majesty Kamahamaha III, arrived
at Honolulu from Maui, where he has resided for some
time.
Though it was the Sabbath, yet he was saluted with
many guns as his crown flag was seen flying at the
entrance of the harbor* He is now to take up his resi-
dence in the city of Honolulu. m :
In the evening of the 7th of March, the bells of the
churches and of the ships in the harbor, rung an alarm,
and the whole city seemed at once in an uproar. The
cry of fire was heard in every direction, and as no fire
could be seen from where we were, I concluded- that it
must be in some ship *in the harbor. I accordingly ran
down to the wharf, and found that the brig Chenamus
was indeed on fire in her hold, and no one could tell to
what extent. A report was at once circulated, that she
had on board a vast quantity of powder, some said three
hundred barrels. This alarmed many exceedingly, and
but few would go down to the wharf for fear the vessel
would blow up immediately. The utmost confusion and
w
11'
HOMeWARD BOUl^Di
206
disorder prevailed until Captain Couch, who was absent
from the ship when the fire was first discovered) arrived.
He immediately corrected the mistake in reference to
the amount of powder, and also informed the people
concerning the probable position of the fire, which he
supposed to be m the lower hold forward of the main-
mast, and as the powder was in the after run, the
danger was not so imminent as had been supposed.
The fire, however, had so far progressed that it was
considered exceedingly dangerous to take off the hatches
for fear it would break forth, and destroy not only the
ship itself, but also the other ships lying near. The
hatches had become hot, and. the quarter-deck, as far
back as the companion-way, was too warm to stand
upon, when the captain gave orders to scuttle her*
Three holes were accordingly made in her hull, and
when the captain left her deck there were already
several feet of water in her hold. She continued filling
and sinking until morning, when her upper deck was
level with the water. Soon after daylight divers were
procured to go down and stop up the scuttle holes, and
cork up the cabin windows, to prepare for pumping her
out. Thirty-six hours* labor of fifty men, sufliced to
get the water all out, and as soon as possible the cargo
was on the wharf, when it was ascertained that the
ship had received but little or no damage from the fire,
and but a small portion of the cargo had been injured
except by the water. The fire had been- principally
confined to some fanning-mills, which were stored upder
the main hatchway. On the Monday following, the
damaged goods were sold at auction for the benefit of
the underwriters, and the captain went about repairing
his vessel in order to proceed on his voyage to the
Columbia River. The (Jhenamus is a fine brig, built
expressly for the Pacific trade, and owned by Captain
Cushing, the father of the Hon. Caleb Cushing, the pre-
sent minister from the United States to China. He has
established a commercial house in Oregon, and carries
on an extensive trade with the settlers in that new and
rsing country.
••1
i
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't
f
M
'! '
f
'
1
5
'
'
20(V
HOMEWARD BOUND.
In consequence of the unfortunate accident to the
Chenamus, we were detained for five weeks, during
which we had an opportunity of extending our observa-
tions on the missions, government, commerce, &c., of
the Sandwich Islands.
. 'V
;#\'.-i:-
M>j
1
"f^ , ^- '
i',V»,„>«;i- jxti,
to the
' during
')8erva-
:c., of
v^i^
■f. ■,: ■ (it,-
MfL. .
-■.^■
' CHAPTER XI.
View of the Sanawich lalanda — How formed — Volcano — Cora) Reeta — Nainaa of
lalanda — When discovered — Singular tradition — Coolc'a death — Population —
Prerious condition — Long and bloodj war — Retulta — Miaaionary autiatics —
EITecta of Miaaionary labor -- Seaman'a Chaplaincy — Romaniam — Kamaham-
ha in — Reformation — Singular cuatom — School for young ehiefa — Influence
of Miaaionariea — The King'a Cabinet — Important hiatory of two l^uudred and
aeventy-six daya — Increase of Cabinet — Paper King — Protection — Commerce — •
Whale Fishery — Prodnctiona — Society — Temperance — Destination of the
Islands.
The Sandwich Islands, in common with a vast number
of others in the Pacific Ocean, have doubtless been formed
by volcanic action, in connexion with the operations of
the coral worm. Doubts mav reasonably oe indulged
in relation to the causes which have produced the present
form of many other portions of the globe, but there can
be none concerning the manner in which the Sandwich
Islands first emerged from the bosom of the deep. That
they have been thrown up by volcanic eiruptions is
evident, from the numerous old craters which appear on
all parts of the islands; from the vast quantities of con-
gealed lava everywhere observable; from the nature of
the soil, it being nothing more, nor less than decomposed
iava, and from the present existence of an active vol-
cano on the principal island of the group. This burning
mountain, known by the name of the volcano of Kilawea,
is situated on the island of Hawaii, or Owyhee, as it was
formerly called; and from its continued action in casting
up immense quantities of lava, stones, and dirt, which in
some instances have been known to roll down the sides
of the mountain in such vast quantities, as, in their pro-
gress, to fill up the deep ravines washed in the sides of
the mountain, and sometimes to bury up the cottages of
the natives with their occupants, and extending quite to
fU
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208
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
the ocean, enlarging even the island itself, must be
viewed as disclosing the principal cause of the formation
of this interesting collection of the Pacific Isles. Though
the crater of this mountain is the only flue now open
through which the subteranean fires discharge them-
selves, yet doubtless all the old craters have, in their
turn, served the same purpose; and from their appear-
ance one is led to suppose that many of them may have
been in action at the same time.
There are different opinions entertained concerning
the formation and continued enlargement of the coral
reefs by which all the islands are surrounded. The
prevailing opinion is that they owe their origin to the
constant action of what is called " the coral worm."
Though it appears evident that the above mentioned two
causes have produced the Sandwich Islands, yet, after
all, perhaps these are mere speculations, and they may
have existed nearly in their present fonn since the period
when the waters of the deluge were gathered to their
original bed, and the ark rested on Mount Ararat.
Be this as it may, there are ten of these isolated spots
of earth embraced in the group known by the name of
the Sandwich Islands. They are distinguished by the
names of Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Kawai, Molokai, Lanai,
Niihau and Kahoolame. The two I have not mentioned
are of no note, being small and barren, and containing
no permanent inhabitants.
The existence of these islands first became known to
the civilized world in 1778. Captain James Cook, the
celebrated English navigator, is entitled to the credit of
the first discovery of this interesting group, to which he
fave their present name, in honor of Lord Sandwich,
is principal friend and patron in the British government.
He was on one of his voyages to the north-west coast of
the American continent, for the purpose of searching for
a north-west passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic
ocean, when he fell in with these islands. On a subse-
quent visit to them, it is generally known that he fell a
victim to the barbarity of the savages, the existence of
whom he had revealed to the world. When Captain
m
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
209
Cook first arrived at the iBlands, he was received by the
natives with great veneration as a supreme being. This,
in part, arose from the following singular tradition. The
Hawaiians have, from time immemorial, entertained a
belief in a deity, or goddess, which they called Pele.
She, they believed, had the control of the volcano of
Kilawea.
Lono, one of the chiefs, was the friend of Pele, but
when once he happened to insult her, she was angry and
began to pursue him. He fled in great terror, and pass-
ing his home in his flight, he cried, ** Aloha, Aloha," to
his wife and children, but could not stop, for Pele was
near in pursuit. Shortly he came to the shore where
he found a man just landing in a fishing canoe, and, to
escape the vengeance of Pele, he immediately siezed the
canoe and pushed out to sea. When Captain Cook first
arrived he forthwith received the name of Lono, the
people supposingvhim to be the same personage who had
left in a canoe, now returned in a much larger vessel.
But the reverence which they manifested for Cook did
not long continue. From an unrestrained intercourse
with them, they found him to be a man like themselves;
and conceiving a strong dislike for him on account of
some supposed injuries which he and his men had inflic-
ted upon them, they resolved upon his distruction, and
accordingly he fell beneath the weight of a Hawaiian
club, near the village of Kadmaloa, on the shore of
Kaalakekua Bay, and on the island of Hawaii. A stick
of cocoa set up in the fissure of the rocks a few feet
from the water s edge, marks the place \/here the gallant
navigator met his untimely fate.
The population of the Islands, when first discovered,
as estimated by Captain Cook, was four hundred thousand.
If this was a correct estimate, during the forty-five
years following Cook's discovery, we find a decrease in
the population of two hundred and fifty-seven thousand
nine hundred and fifty; for in 1823 we find a population
of only one hundred and forty-two thousand and fifty.
A census was taken in 1832, and it was found that tne
decrease for the nine previous years amounted to eleven
9*
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210
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
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'.;- a;
T
thousand seven hundred and thirty-seven, leaving a pop-
ulation at that time of one hundred and thirty thousand
three hundred and thirteen. Another census was taktn
in 1836, which revealed the astonishing decrease of
twenty-one thousand seven hundred and thirty in four
years. One of the missionaries, the Rev. W. P. Alex-
ander, in 1838, calculated that there were annually, in
all the islands, six thousand eight hundred and thirty-
ei^ht deaths, and only three thousand three hundred and
thirty-five births. I have frequently conversed with
missionaries who have been for many years upon the
islands, and they all agree in stating that the yearly
deaths at the present time bear about the proportion to
the yearly births of seven to three; and that only about
one-half of the marriages lead to ofispring. Allowing
that there has been twenty thousand decrease from 1836
to 1846, and it will not fall short of this, there is now a
population of eighty-eight thousand five hundred and
seventy-nine. This brings us to the lamentable result,
that since the discovery of the island in 1778 there has
been an average annual decrease of four thousand five
hundred and eighty. The astonishing rapidity of the
decrease of Hawaiian population, is, perhaps, without a
parallel in the history of nations, not excepting the ill-
fated Indians of North America.
In beholding the downward career of the Hawaiians
in respect to population, one is led to inquire for the
causes which have produced these astonishing results.
These are numerous, and amon^ the principal are the
sweeping pestilence which raged with singular fatality
during the vears 1803 and 1804, the destructive wars o?
Kamehamena the first, and the almost universal preva-
lence, and uncontrolled progress of a disease said to have
been introduced by the vicious crew belonging to the
vessel of Captain Cook, and as fatal in its ravages, as it
is loathsome to contemplate. The laxity of native mor-
als, which has always existed among the Hawaiians, is a
sufficient cause why this disease should prevail among
them to an unusual extent; and this very cause adds to
the efifect of the disease in preventing offspring. Hitherto
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
211
all the efforts of the missionaries and the medical
men in the islands to stop the ravages of the disease,
have been ineifectual, and it is extremely doubtful
whether any means can be devised sufficient to roll back
the tide of death which threatens the destruction of the
Hawaiian nation.
Great changes had taken place in the political and
religious history of the Hawanan nation previous to the
arrival of the first missionaries. Many of these resul-
ted from the free intercourse of the people of other
nations with the islanders, so soon as their existence be-
came known to the civilized world. When they were
first discovered, the islands were governed by a number
of independent chiefs, and all the people were held under
the iron control of a system of idolatry, called the Tabu
system. After a few years' intercourse with foreigners,
beholding their vast superiority over themselves, arising,
as they supposed, from the difference of their religion,
there arose a party among the natives who rejected their
ancient Tabu, and embraced in theory so far as they
understood it, the religion of the foreigners. At first
this party was small, out continuing to increase, it at
length embraced nearly one half of the nation. Kame-
hameha was the first chief to declare himself openly
against the Tabu system. At that time he was a petty
chief, controlling but a small portion of the island oi
Hawaii. But being more enlightened than his country-
men, and withal ambitious and enterprising in his habits,
he resolved to attempt the accomplishment of a revolu-
tion in both the government and religion of his country.
But the cruel system of idolatry against which Kame-
hameha had arrayed himself, strengthened as it was by
ages of uninterrupted growth, was not to be destroyed
without a powerful struggle, its friends and supporters
still being more numerous than its enemies. The most
violent enmity had grown up betwixt the two parties,
and at length Kamehameha found himself involved in
the most bloody war. All the principal chiefs were upon
the side of the Tabu, and it became necessary for Kame-
UV2
S AM) W It'll ISIMNUS.
J!^'*
1
hameha to fight them successively. He first turned his
attention to ttie subjugation of his own native island of
Hawaii, and meeting the chiefs with their forces in battle,
his own superior skill and prowess prevailed, and he soon
found the island of Hawaii, containing then more than
one hundred thou8ai;4 inhabitants, prostrate at his feet.
Here establishing his authority by the wise use of every
necessary precaution, he prepared for the invasion of
the other islands. He met the adherents of the Tabu
on the islands of Maui, Kauai, Lanai, and Morokai, in
battle, and in every instance triumphed over them.
Those of his enemies who escaped took refuge on the
island of Oahu. Here an army of men as large as that
which Kamehameha had drawn to his standard, had col-
lected, and resolved to make one more desperate stand,
to support their favorite Tabu. At length the conquer-
ing chief effected a landing on the island of Oahu, and
the opposing forces met in the rear of the city of Hono-
lulu, and fought the last and bloodiest battle of the whole
war. The victory of Kamehameha was complete, his
enemies were anruhilated, and he was forthwith pro-
claimed king of the Hawaiian nation.
Providing for the government of Oahu, Kamehameha
returned to Kailue on his native island, and in £i pro-
clamation to the nation announced that the old Tabu
system was at an end. Thus fell idolatry on the Sand-
wich Islands, and thus all the group were connected
together under one government. At the head stood the
victorious chieftain who had effected the revolution,
under the title of King Kamehameha the First.
It was in this condition that the first missionaries found
the islands on their arrival. Providence had prepared
the way for them in the destruction of the bloody sys-
tem of idolatry which had reigned over the islands for
ages, and accordingly the first news that saluted them
on approaching Hawaii, was, "Kamehameha is king,
and the Tabu is destroyed."
It was on the 4th day of April, 1820, that the brig
Ths^ddeus, from Boston, with seven male and seven
ifcfc-infiSi
SANDWICH IHLANOtf.
213
female missionaries came to anchor in the bay of Kailua,
and on the 8th the king and chiefs consented to their
landing and residing on the island.
Three * years afterwards a reinforcement arrived,
consisting of seven males, and six females. A second
reinforcement of six males and ten females, arrived in
the spring of 1828 ; a third, of four males and four
females, in the spring of 1831 ; a fourth, of ten males
and nine females, in the spring of 1832 ; a fifth, of two
males and two females, in the spring of 1833 ; a sixth,
of three males and five females, in the sprine of 1835 ;
a seventh, fifteen males and seventeen females, in the
spring of 1837 ; an eighth, of four males and four
females, in the spring of 1841. In January, 1842, one
male and one female joined the mission at the islands
from the Oregon Mission. A ninth reinforcement, of
two males and two females, from the United States,
arrived in September, 1842. This makes an aggregate
of sixty-one males and sixty-seven females wno have
been employed on the mission «ince its first establish-
ment twenty-six years ago. Of these a number have
died, some have returned to the United States, some
have become disconnected with the mission and remain
at the islands, and others continue their labors as mis-
sionaries in behalf of the Hawaiian race.
The greatest number of laborers in the field at one
time, has not exceeded about eighty adults, or forty
families, and this has been near the average number for
the last ten years. Of course, to sustain so large an
establishment^ the expenditures must have been very
great. These have been incurred in supporting the
missionaries, and providing them with dwellings ; m the
printing and binding of books for the seminary and
other public schools ; in the erection of churches and
schoolhouses, and in the circulation of books. The
entire amount expended, from the first establishment of
the mission up to 1844, according to the report of the
financial agent, amounted to six hundred and eight thou-
sand, eight hundred and sixty-five dollars. Fifty thou-
sand dollars of this was furnished by the American Bible
214
sandwici; islands.
1 I
i-l»
1
Society ; nineteen thousand seven hundred and seventy-
four dollars by the American Tract Society, and five
hundred and thirty-nine thousand and ninety dollars by
the A. B. C. F. M.
Eighteen mission stations have been established, and
continue to be occupied ; six on Hawaii, four on Maui,
four on Oahu, three on Kauai, and one on M orokai. In
addition to two printing offices and a bindery, a commo-
modious seminary, school-houses, and churches, forty
permanent dwelling-houses have been erected for the
accommodation of the missionaries, that in appearance
would not disgrace any of the villages of Western New
York.
The results of all tnis immense labor and expense are
sufficient to estabhsh in every reflecting mind, the utility
of christian nnssions. The great object held in view in
the missionary enterprise, is the conversion of the hea-
then to the Lord Jesus Christ, and their final salvation
in the kingdom of heaven. As it regards the first, by
missionary eflfort, Christianity has been introduced into
the Sandwich Islands, and adopted as the religious sys-
tem of the nation. Twenty-three christian churches
have been gathered, and embraced, on the first of April,
1843, twenty-three thousand eight hundred and four
members in regular standing. In addition to this, the
Hawaiian language has been systematized and reduced
to writing ; fifty thousand copies of the New Testament
and twenty thousand of the Old Testament have issued
from the Hawaiian press ; seventy different works,
scientifical, historical, and religious, have been translated
and published ; one-half of the adult population have
been taught to read, and nearly all of the children of
the islands, are now gathered into the schools. A mis-
sion seminary where the higher branches are taught,
has been in operation for years, and usually numbers
about one hundred and thirty students. A female semi-
nary of a similar character numbers about eighty pupils.
These are on the island of Maui. A boarding school
for boys numbering sixty scholars, and one for girls of
about twenty-five, are in operation on Hawaii. A
SANnWICH ISLANDS.
315
boarding school for the young chiefs, and a number of
select schools at the various stations throughout the
islands, and under the care of gentlemen and ladies be-
longing to the mission. Reading, writing, geography,
arithmetic, astronomy, geometry, trigonometry, mensu-
ration, surveying, navigation, algebra, history, phyloso-
phy, &c., are taught in these schools, some of wMch
are already beginning to rank with the academies of
New England.
These are some of the direct benefits resulting from
missionary efforts, as they exhibit themselves on thie
Sandwich Islands ; and in viewing them we can form
some conception of the value of those efforts which
have accomplished this work, considered with respect to
time. But who can estimate the value of a soul, the
redemption of which cost the infinite price of a Re-
deemer's blood 1 When I take a view of the small
amount of money and labor expended, the little suffering
endured, and the few lives sacrificed in the missionary
cause, and connect them as instrumentalities with the
eternal salvation of souls as the object, I am led to
exclaim, my God! how trifling are the means used in
comparison to the great end accomplished! And yet
thousands from the Sandwich Islands will share in the
blesscdnee« of the first resurrection, because these in-
strumentalities have been used in their behalf, and the
Divine blessing has accompanied the efforts which have
been made.
In addition to the results of these efforts, as already
stated, it rnay be proper *o remark that the government
has assumed a much more stable and consistent charac-
ter than it formerly possessed. Written laws have been
enacted by which the people are better secured from
oppressive exactions on the part of their rulers, and
encouraged to cultivate industrious and virtuous habits.
The security, stability, and value of property have been
greatly enhanced. Diplomatic intercourse has been
opened with other and greater nations, among which
are England, the United States, and France, all of which
have acknowledged the independence of the islands, and
..'^
216
SANDWICH ISLANDS*
1
express an interest in their prosperity. Indeed, a great
change for the better has tAen place, and, though it is
true that, still Hawaiian society is in a very crude state,
and is susceptible of vast improvement, it is not the less
true that the wonderful change through which it has
passed since the cross was first planted upon the islands,
is Without parallel in the history of ancient or modern
times. 1 +»j
There are few subjects presenting themselves to the
visitor at the islands, more interesting than the Seaman's
Chaplaincy, at Honolulu. The fact that the American
Seaman's Friend Society, in addition to many other
places in the world, have directed their pious benevo-
lence to the greatest seaport of the Sandwich Islands,
should be regarded as evidence of the importance of
the place as well as of the discrimination of the mana-
gers of that society. They have here erected a chapel
on a most eligible site, which is conveniently fitted up
to accommodate two or three hundred hearers. In the
basement there is a depository for Bibles and Tracts,
which may here be found in English, German, French,
Danish, and most other European languages, and are
carefully and liberally distributed. The Bethel Flag
floats from a staff elevated from the top of the steeple,
inviting the mariner to the house of prayer. Puolic
worship is performed every Sunday morning and even-
ing ; there is a meeting every Thursday evening for
prayer and religious conference, and a monthly seamen's
concert for prayer ; both held in the vestry, and well
attended. The chaplain also invites all seamen to his
private residence, where he instructs, advises, reproves,
and exhorts, as occasion may require, and distributes
Bibles, Tracts, '^cc, to those who attend, with great
assiduity, as they are received with many thanks by the
sailors, and open sources of unspeakable consolation to
many of them, while prosecuting their hazardous em-
ployment.
The society has been peculiarly fortunate in their
choice of chaplains for this important post. The present
incumbent is the Rev. Samuel C. Damon, who has
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
217
officiated since the death of his predecessor, the Rev.
John Diell. Mr. D&mon is well qualified for the place
he is called to fill, and his performances in the pulpit
are alike creditable to himself as a clergymaii and man
of letters, and well adapted to the varied circumstances
of his hearers. His audience is frequently composed of
English lords and knights, consuls and consul generals,
admirals and rear admirals, the king of the islands and
his suite, the ardent votaries of wealth in the character
of merchants and sea captains, naval oflficers of different
nations, common seamen and Kanakas. His subjects
are well chosen to arrest the attention of all these, nor
does he shun to declare unto them all the counsel of God.
In addition to his ordinary labors as chaplain, which
alone are very arduous, he is the editor of a very inte-
resting and -useful paper called "The Friend of Tempe-
rance and Seamen." About four hundred seamen
annually visit him at his study, to receive religious
instruction, and advicer From a <:onsideration of these
facts, I am led fully to the conclusion that the seaman's
chaplaincy at Honolulu is every way worthy to-be
sustained.
Since the French compelled the Hawaiians to receive
with their brandy, Roman Catholic missionaries, Catholic-
ism has been making rapid advances among the natives,
and thereby presenting a great obstacle in the way of
the final success of the Protestant missionaries. Ac-
cording to the best information I could obtain, there
were nine Catholic priests on the islands, and the bap-
tized members of the church amounted in all to about
twelve thousand five hundred, besides those who were
under preparatory training.
They have one hundred schools established, containing
upwards of three thousand scholars. These are under
the direction of priests, sisters of charity, and native
teachers. The catholic cathedral is by far the most
sightly looking church in Honolulu, and is under 'the
charge of the Rev. the Abbe Maigret, of the Society of
Peipus, in Paris. In connection with the cathedral
there is a school of three hundred scholars, of both
218
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
1
sexes, under the superintendence of the Abbe himself,
whose services are without charge to those who belong
to his communion. Some time in 1842 a vessel sailed
from France, containing a bishop for the islands, seven
priests, and twelve sisters of charity ; but she has nevei
been heard of since she left the coast of Brazil, and is
supposed to have been lost in the vicinity of Cape
Horn.
King Kamehameha III. and his small court have for
several years resided chiefly at Lahaira, in the island of
Maui, but in June, 1844, they removed their residences
to the city of Honolulu^ on the Island Oahu. At this
place a palace has been recently erected in a conspicuous
part of the city, and when the public grounds surround-
ing it are properly improved and ornamented, will pre-
sent an imposing appearance, and constitute a suitable
residence for the royal family.
Until recently, it has been extremely doubtful whethei
the Hawaiian government would continue in existence
for any length of time, but now his majesty Kameham-
eha ill, is recognized as belonging to the family of
independent sovereigns, and efforts are being made by
his ministers to place his court, and organize his tribunals
on a footing corresponding with his present situation.
As the ministers of the king are principally Americans,
and of course unaccustomed to the forms of ceremony
observed in royal palaces, it may be expected that the
code of court etiquette which they have adopted, may
be somewhat defective. If by some strange metamor-
phosis, a republican is transformed into an aristocrat, he
generally surrounds himself with an excess of cere-
mony, and on this ground fault has been found with the
code of etiquette which the ministers of Kamehameha
III. have thrown around the court. Formerly the king
was approachaVie on all occasions, and by every body ;
now a routine of ceremony must be observed before
even a sea captain can gain an audience. This is pecu-
liarly trying to those English and American residents
who have formerly had free access to the royal presence.
Though this privilege is now denied the people generally,
6ANDWICH ISLANDS.
219
yet, on proper application being previously m^^de, the
representatives of foreign powers, are, at all times,
admitted to a personal interview with the king, for the
purpose of submitting to his majesty any case of well
founded grievance which any of their countrymen may
have against the authorities of the land.
The character of the king since he came to the throne,
has undergone a very great change. Formerly he was
adicted to low and degrading vjce^, among which intem-
perance was one of the most prominent, but some ten or
twelve years ago, a thorough reformation took place in his
majesty, and he is now not only a consistent temperance
man, but also a member of the church of Christ. Though
there are a few individuals at Honolulu who are disposed
to censure, and find fault with everything and everybody
in the islands, yet none seem inclined to complain of his
majesty Kamehameha III. The general testimony is
favorable to the goodness of his disposition, the upright-
ness of his intentions, and his clemency and kindness to
his subjects. None accuse him of cruelty or tyrtnny,
and many, qualified to judge, concur in ascribing to him
considerable native talent, and much acquired informa-
tion. His majesty is an example of sobriety to his sub-
jects, regular in his attendance at church, and zealous in
the discouragement of all Pagan rites, and the establish-
ment of the Christian religion in the nation.
He is now thirty-three years of age; and was married
in 1837 to Kalama, by whom he has no offspring. In
the probable event of his having no lineal successor, the
crown wfll devolve on Alexander Liholiho, whom the
king has adopted for that purpose. He is an active and
promising lad, now in the twefth year of his age.
A very singular custom prevails in the Hawaiian
monarchy of appointing a female prime minister of the
kingdom. It is said this custom originated in the will of
Kamehameha I, which declared his son Liholiho his
successor in the throne, but that Kaahumanu, his favorite
jmeen, should be his minister. The present premier is
Kekauluohi, who is about fifty years df age, very digni-
■ied in her appearance, and much respected by all classes.
220
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
m
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Her prerogatives are nearly equal to tliose of the king,
and whatever she does in tne realm, is to be considered
as executed by his authority; but the king has a veto on
her acts, while, on the other hand, his own are not bind-
ing unless approved of by her. SJie has an interesting son,
William Charles Lunalilo, about twelve years of age,
but his sex disqualifies him from being her successor;
consequently, Victoria Kamamalu, who is eight years of
age, is the reputed heir to the premiership.
Alexander and Victoria are both the children of
Kekuanaoa, the present governor of Oahu, by Kaahu-
mana the former premier of the kingdom. These chil-
dren, with all the other young chiels of the realm, are
under the care of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, who are mem-
bers of the mission, and who spare no pains to fit them,
through a proper education and training, for the high
functions which they are destined to fill. To the mis-
sionaries belongs the merit of having excited the king
and chiefs of the islands to desire a school for the sys-
tematic education of those children into whose hands
would fall the future destiny of the government. By
the request and concurrence of the km^ and chiefs, in
1839, Mr. and Mrs. Cooke were selected by the mission
as suitable persons to undertake the education of the
young chiefs. The building occupied by this school of
the chiefs, is situated in a retired part of the city of
Honolulu, and, though it cost but two thousand dollars,
being constructed of sun-dried adobes, is commodiously
arranged to secure the purposes of its construction. It
contains seventeen rooms in all, of various dimensions,
opening into a court in the centre thirty-six feet square,
the outside of the building being seventy-six feet square.
The school room is very conveniently arranged, and
books, maps, stationery, and globes terrestrial and celes-
tial, are at all times accessible to the scholars, and there
is also an excellent apparatus to illustrate tht movements
of the planets which compose our solar sysu-in. The
scholars are fifteen in number, seven males and ei^ht
females, and each of them has from two to six native
attendants in the character of grooms, tailors, washers,
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
221
&c., according to the rank, age, and sex of each. These
attendants are ali under the direction of John Li and his
wife, who are both very respectable natives, and who
co-operate with Mr. and Mrs. Cooke in excluding these
attendants from any intimacy with the young chiefs
which might prove prejudicial to their welfare. Reading,
writing, spelling, arithmetic, geography, history, draw-
ing, HI usic, vocal and instrumental, are the principal
branches of education which these future rulers of the
islands are receiving at the hands of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke.
These interesting youth, ih every department of educa-
tion, show a tractabiiity quite equal to any other children
of the same ages, and under similar circumstances; and
it is quite evident that, under the excellent government
and tuition of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, these young chiefs
will be prepared to go f^rth into the world and nil their
respective stations, with a fund of knowledge vastly
superior to that of their predecessors^ and it is equally
obvious, that the administration of these future rulers,
must be immeasurably more enlightened than any that
has ever before existed in the islands. Yet the tongue
of calumny has represented the appointment of Mr. and
Mrs. Cooke to their responsible station, as a measure
having no higher object, than the selfish policy of priest'
craft, •
As might be expected, the missionaries, from the posi-
tion, they have occupied, have exerted a controlling
influence in the councils of the Hawaiian government,
for many years, but the first appointment from among
them to any office in the government was that of the
Rev. William Richards in 1838 to the office of teacher
or counsellor of the chiefs. This appointment was made
in accordance with a request of the king and chiefs, and
accepted by Mr. Richards at first, but for one year.
Subsequently he received a higher appointment, and
filling the diflferent offices 'i)f privy counsellor, secretary
of state, and embassador to a foreign court, he has been
one of the principal actors in the government since his
first apnointment.
Another appointment to a responsible office in the
222
SANDWICH ISLANBS.
f .
#
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government took place from among the missionaries in
1842, which became a matter of much serious contro-
versy in the islands, and perhaps of some willful misre-
presentation. This was that of Dr. Gerritt P. Judd. This
gentleman was solicited b]^ the king to accept of the
office of interpreter, and giving up his connexion with
the mission, he identified himself with the Hawaiian
government. Some of the foreign residents, and partic-
ularly the English, took occasion from this, to charge
upon the missionaries a disposition to domineer over the
king and people for the beliefit of themselves and of
the American residents. If it was necessarv to appoint
a foreigner to this office, doubtless Dr. Judd, from his
thorough knowledge of the native language and charac-
ter, was as well Qualified fis any man; and from his hav-
ing voluntarily officiated, and possessing a high reputa-
tion among the natives, it was natural that the choice of
the king snoukl fall on him. In his new functions, the
Doctor appears to have given great satisfkction, at least
to the king, for during the troubles of the government
with the English, he was appointed by the king to rep-
resent his person, and after tne restoration of the islands
from British rule, he was elevated to the high and respon-
sible office of secretary of state for foreign affairs.
A third appointment from amons the missionaries took
place in 1845. This was that of 5ie Rev. Mr. Andrews
to the office of supreme judge. As these three appoint-
ments were made from amon^ themselves through the
influence of the missionaries, it has been charged upon
them by the enemies of the mission, that, forgetting their
appropriate calling, they had used the extensive influ-
ence thev had acquired m the nation to arrogate to them-
selves dl the important offices of state, and the emolu-
ments arising Yrom such offices. But, as it is the business
of the journalist to state facts, and neither to condemn
nor attempt a justification of the important transactions
narrated, it will not be expected that I shall appear on
either side of the unhappy controversy which has proved
the source of so much disquietude to tne foreign residents
on the S&iidwich Islai^ds.
6ANDW1CH iHLANOa.
223
In accepting the reins o£ government, when proffered
to them, doubtless the missionaries acted under the influ-
ence of a justifiable fear for the safety of the Protestant
faith, which they had been instrumental in establishing
in the islands; and it was natural for them to prefer a
Christian Protestant to either an immoral or a Catholic
domination.
The history of the Sandwich Island government during
the short space of two hundred and seventy-six days, in
1848, presents three' of the most remarkable and impor-
tant events that ever trani^ired in a nation, in the same
length of time.
The first was the cession of the islands, by his majesty
Kamahamaha and the Premier, on the 25th day of Feb-
ruary, 1843, to the Rij^ht Hqn. Lord Georg^e Paulet,
on the part of her Britanic Majesty, Victoria, Queen
of Great Britain and Ireland; the second was the restor-
ation of the islands to their native sovereign, on the 31st
of July, 1843, by Rear Admiral Thomas; and the third
was the united declaration of Great' Britain and France,
dated on the 28th Nov., 1843, acknowledging the islands
as an independent State, and ihutually engaging never
to take possession, neither directly nor under the title of
protectorate, or under any other form, of any part of
the territory of which thejr are composed. Kamehameha
III. was driven to cede his sovereignty to Great Britain
provisionally, in consequence of charges being preferred
against him by British subjects which he was utterly
unable to meet, and which in fact were founded in great
injustice. Under the influence of wise counsel the king
preferred to lay aside his crown rather than act a dis-
graceful part by complying with the exorbitant demands
of the British Lord, and await for the final decision of
Great Britain to announce that the Hawaiian government
had passed away, or that the crown was still on the
brow of Kamehameha III. While the question of the
life or death of the Hawaiian government was pending,
the British ensign was waving over the islands, and the
reins of government were siezed by Lord George Paulet
in the name of her majesty, Queen Victoria. His Lord-
224
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
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"\
. ship had the ncwior of standing at the head of the govern-
ment of the islands during one hundred and nfty-six
days; but on the arrival of Rear Adniiral Thomas, .in
the CoUingwood line of battle ships, and the investigation
of the grdunds of the difficulty by the Admiral, the
course pursued by Lord Georce was unceremoniously
condemned, and tne decision of the, British government
was anticipated by Rear Admiral Thomas. The king
"was restored to his just rights on the ^st of July, in a
way calculated to preserve the respect due to royalty
and restore confidence and good feeling anions all the
foreign residents. On the issuing of his proclamation,
declaring. that Kamehameha III. still reigned, Rear Ad-
miral Thomas was hailed as the deliverer of the nation,
and the f)eople were as loud in his piaises as they woro
vociferous in their reproaches of Lord George; and the
31st of July was registered as a day to be ».»bserved as a
national festival, to commemorate the re!«toration of
Kamehameha to the throne of the Sandwich Islands,
from which he had been unjustly driven.
Since the settlement of these troubles and the acknow-
ledgement of the independence of the islands by three
great nations under an unusual engagement, the king
appears to submit the governm ;nt principally into the
hands of his foreign ministers. The cabinet, with the
exception of the premier, is composed of foreigners,
three of whom were formerly members of the American
mission, and two arrived at the islands as mere private
gentlemen. One of them, John Ricord, Esq., was a
young adventurer from New York, who crossed the
continent by the way of St. Louis and the RocHy Moun-
tains, and came down to Oregon in the fall o^ 1843,
' professing that his sole errand to the Pacific was to seek
a fortune. Not finding it readily along the coast of the
Pacific, he resolved to commit himself to its winds and
waves. Confined in Baker's Bay by a succession of
storms which lasted forty days and forty nights, he at
- length began to suspect that "Old Neptune " was suspi-
cious that his motives for invading his donunions, were
not of the purest kind; but finally hia doubts of the
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
!225
favor of Neptune subsided, as the angry elements were
hushed to silence, and the gentle breeze wafted him
through the gateway across the bar of the Columbia
Twenty-four days brought him along side of Oahu, the
sight of which he hailed with transport, as he felt that
confidence which is the harbinger of success. Remain
ing in a voluntary quarantine for a day or two, in conse-
quence of the dilapidated state of his wardrobe, which
he found it necessary to repair before appearing in pub-
lic, he at length received an introduction to some of the
members of the cabinet as a qualified member of the
bar, from the Empire State. Possessing the advantages
arising from a gentlemanly appearance, ready wit, and
considerable suavity of manners, he succeeded immedi-
ately in ingratiating himself into the good will of the
members of the government, and on the ninth day after
his arrival he took the oath of allegiance to Kamehameha
III, and received the insignia of his appointment to the
honorable and responsible office of Attorney General of
the Sandwich Islands, with a salary of two thousand
dollars per annum.
The other was a Scotchman by the name of Robert
Crichton Wyllie, who came to the islands in the company
of General Miller, her Britanic Majesty's Consul G^eneral
for the islands of the Pacific. Probably Mr. Wyllie
owes his promotion to his present distinguished office to
the interesting ** Notes" on the population, religion,
agriculture and commerce of the islands, which he pub-
lished soon after his arrival. In these notes the mission-
aries are very highly commended, and some very wise
suggestions are made concerning the future policy of the
Sandwich Islands' government.
The cabinet of Kamehameha III, at present stands as
follows: Dr. G. P. Judd, Minister for the Interior, Rev.
Mr. Richards, Privy Counsellor, Rev. Mr. Andrews,
Supreme Judge, Hon. John Ricord, Attorney General,
and Robert Crichton Wyllie, Secretary of State for
Foreign Affairs. These five functionaries constitute the
government of the Sandwich Islands, for every thing
goes according to their direction. In all the great trans-
10
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226
SANDWICH IriLASnti,
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actions of the nation in its intercourse with other nations,
and also in most of its internal affairs, the kinff in reality
has no nnorc power than one of his inferior cniefs. He
says himself, that he is a mere ** paper king," that his
foreign ministers do the business, and bring him the
papers to sign, and all he has to do is to obey them. In
consequence of this apparent assumption of f ower on
the part of the foreigners connected with the government,
it has been charged upon them by some, that they are
actuated by motives of selfish ambition; that they art-
fully dupe the king and his native suite, by filling them
with a sense of their own importance, when in reality
they are mere cyphers, and in this way succeed in pro-
moting their own aggrandizement. But the truth is
that, with all the improvement the islanders have made,
they still remain grossly ignorant, especially on the great
principles of government; and, so extensive is their inter-
course with other nations, and so complicated the business
to be transacted, that the king finds it indispensibly ne-
cessary to put the helm of government into the hands of
enlightened foreigners; and thus far he has been pecu-
liarly fortunate in the selections he has made, judging
from the course which has been pursued. For while his
ministers have been careful to guard their own reputa-
tion, they have acted as though they believed, that their
success in this depended on their faithfulness in guarding
the honor and interests of the king.
As a matter of course, since the recognition of the
Sandwich Islands as belonging to the great family of
kingdoms, the ministers, and aU the public functionaries
are putting on much of the dignity and importance of
royalty, but on some of them who have been altogether
unaccustomed to such high honors as result from their
offices, the garments of court etiquette hang but loosely;
nevertheless they may be considered as skillful politicians
if they steer the government ship so as to escape the
Sylla on the one hand, and Charybdis on the other, to
which she is continually exposed. Now that the three
greatest naval powers on earth have entered into a
mutual understanding never to take possession of the
SANDWICH I0LANU0.
337
islands under any pretence whatever, the safety and
perpetuity of thr government depend upon the course
which shall be pursued with other nations. So long as
no just grounds of Iiostility are afforded, the engagement
betwixt the three great powers would lead them to
remonstrate effectively against any aggression which
might endanger the existence of the government. If
the astonishing mortality which has prevailed so long
among the natives, can by any means be checked, and
the fountains of life be purified, so that children shall
again be multiplied in the islands, and the decrease of
numbers be effectually staid, then may we expect to see,
in the future history of the Sandwich Islands, a satisfac-
tory proof of the ability of the copper-colored race to
govern themselves, and to become truly civilized. But
if the tide of death shall continue to sweep on for fifty
years to come, the Hawaiian nation will be numbered
among the things that have been.
In connection with this view of the government, it
may be proper to consider their means of protection.
Commanding the anchorage is a fort mounting seventy
guns, varying m calibre from the long brass thirty-two
pounder down to the four pounder. The fort is nearly
a quadrangle, with the guns pointing on all sides, and
consequently few in proportion, pointing to seaward.
A small naval force would be sufficient to silence the
guns of the fort, in a short period. As the fort affords
no adequate means of protection from an attack by sea,
the money laid out for its erection and the purchase of
the guns mounted upon it, one of which cost the Hawai-
ians the sum of ten thousand dollars, was very foolishly
expended. So far as their being able to defend them-
selves by this fort is concerned, they may as well melt
down their big guns and cast them into poi-pots as to
'continue the fort as it now is. It will probably soon bt
demolished, and another one will be erected on the reef,
seaward of the present one, which, under the direction
of a skillful engineer, will serve a much better purpose.
There is a remarkable hill in the rear of Honolulu
which overlooks the city and harbor, called by the
228
OANOWICtt laLANUfiU
it !
ill :
I ;■
natives Puawana, and by foreigners Punch Bowl HilL
The top of this hill is concave, the center of it being
from forty to fifty feet lower than the outer edge. It is
one of those extinct volcanoes, whose former active
operation is satisfactorily established^ by the ditferent
strata of vitrified lava descending from the top of the
hill on all sides, at the depth of from four to six feet
from the surface of the soil. On the almost circular
edge of this hill, on the side next the city, are planted
eleven lar^e guns, pointing different ways ; but lying on
the ground, sfnd being at too great a distance from the
harbor, they are entirely useless as a means of defence.
Of this the government are fully aware ; but they
continue the guns in their present eleva' jd position for
the purpose of firing salutes on the king's birth-day, and
on other great occasions. These being all the visible
means of protection which the Hawaiians have, it is
obvious that they will owe their safety, not so much to
any martial array they can muster, whether on land or
water, as to an impartial adminiF>tration of justice to all
nations with whom they have intercourse.
The prosperity of the islands is entirely dependent on
their commerce, and the annual visits of whalers and
ships of war. The commerce of the port of Honolulu,
in 1943, was as follows, viz : twenty-five American ves-
sels, nine British, four French, one Spanish, and one
German. During the same year the port was visited
by one hundred and nine whaJers, and ten ships of war.
The merchant ships left goods to the amount of upwards
of one hundred and fifty-six thousand dollars, and the
whale ships to twenty-one thousand eight hundred dol-
lars, it IS estimated that the visit of every whaler is
worth to the islands from eight to fifteen hundred dollars,
and every ship of war considerably more. Besides the
amount of vegetables, &c., sold to the various ships
touching at the port, there was exported, in 1843, in the
produce of the islands, consisting of sugar, molasses,
Kukui oil, bullock-hides, goat-skins, arrow-root, and
mustard-seed, the amount of ninety-one thousand two
himdred and forty-five dollars, r- v-
SANDWICH tSLANM.
S99
wl HilL
it being
:e. It is
active
different
p of the
six feet
circular
! planted
lying on
"rom the
defence,
lut they
ition for
day, and
visible
ve, it is
much to
I land or
ice to all
ndent on
ilers and
lonolulu,
ican ves-
and one
LS visited
i of war.
upwards
and the
dred dol-
ivhaler is
d dollars,
sides the
>us ships
iS, in the
molasses,
Dot, and
land two
The net revenue of the kingdom in the same year,
•mbracing duties, harbor dues, &c., amounted to fifty
thousand dollars. But, as the islands depend mainly
upon the whale ships that annually flock to their ports,
for their prosperity, it is obvious that, were the whale
fishery to fall off, or were the vessels engaged in it to
abandon the islands for some port on the mam land, the
Sandwich Islands would relapse into their primitive
insignificance.
The diversion of whalers to some other port has been
a subject of alarm to the Hawaiian government, espe-
cially since it has been obvious that Upper California,
with its splendid bay of San Francisco, would soon be-
come the property of the United States. So long as
this ndblest harbor of the Pacific coast is blockaded
against whalers by the enormous port charges enforced
by the mistaken policy of Mexico, the Sandwich Islands
have nothing to fear ; but, when Mexico shall relinquish
her hold on California, and a large commercial city shall
adorn the shore of San Francisco, whose quiet harbor,
free of charges, shall invite the weather beaten whale-
man, then a fatal ^.heck will be given to the prosperity
of the islands, and much of their present importance
will disappear.
The great value of this fishery to those places where
the ships are under the necessity of putting in to procure
supplies, will appear if we consider its amazing extent.
Take for instance one single year. Of six hundred
American whalers that were in active operation on the
different oceans, three hundred and sixty-seven visited
the two ports of the Sandwich Islands, Lahaira and
Honolulu in 1843, some of them twice in the same year.
Surely no nation ever sent out such an immense fleet of
whalers as now sail from the ports of the United States.
Bold and adventurous, the Americans carry this enter-
prise into every portion of the world frequented by the
object of their perilous search. There is no sea that
is not whitened with their canvass, and no climate that
does not witness their toils. While we look for them
among the icebergs of the arctic regions, they are seen
!i!
280
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
11
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crossing the antarctic circle, and hovering around the
south pole. They explore the vast extent of the At-
lantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans, while the Carzette
Islands, New Hoihmd, and New Zealand are witness to
their hardy and persevering industry. And as the im-
mense fleet of whalemen sailing from the United States
around Cape Horn have ' een dependent upon the Sand-
wich Islands for their supplies, so they have given to the
islands much of the importance whicn they now possess ;
and if the inhabitants of the island:^ wish to preserve
the valuable trade arising from this fishery, they will
find it necessary to remove all the disadvantages of port
charges under which whalemen now labor, in visiting
their harbors.
Few portions of the world afford a greater variety of
productions than the Sandwich Islands. As the temper-
ature in the different parts varies from forty to ninety
degrees in the shade, so nearly all the productions of
the temperate and torrid zones, here come to maturity.
In the Hawaiian markets of their own production, may
be found arrow-root, sugar-cane, Kukui oil, castor oil,
mustard seed, coflfee, indigo, cotton, cabbages, pine-
apples, pumpkins, melons, oranges, bananas, figs, grapes,
sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, onions, taro, Indian corn,
wheat, rice, tobacco, beef, pork, goats, turkeys, fowls,
cocoanuts, mangoes, and bread-fruit. Though the pro-
ductions are thus various, the staff* of fife amongst the
natives is the taro-root. This root is cultivated on
patches of ground wholly covered with water, so that
the plant is wholly immersed, excepting the large green
leaves. It grows to the size of a large potato ; is boiled
by the natives; prepared in the form of paste, and eaten
either alone or with dried fish. It is considered a
wholesome food, and exceedingly nutritious. When
thus prepared it is called poi, and being almost indispen-
sable to the subsistence oi the natives, it forms one of
the principal articles of trafliic among them.
Society in Honolulu becomes a subject of interest to
all, whether transient visitors, or residents. Though
there are some jealousies existing betwixt the subjects
X
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
%n
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of difterent nations concerning the degree of favor
which they respectively enjoy under the government,
the British complaining that the Vmericans have more
than themselves, and the Americans, that the privileges
enjoyed by the British, are much greater than theirs,
and the French, that they are much worse off than
either the British or Americans ; yet all visitors agree
in attributing to the foreign residents at Honolulu a
degree of hospitality and good feeling not often enjoyed
in any other part of the world. This virtue is not con-
fined to the missionary families, but is a general charac-
teristic of the foreign society. Strangers who come
well recommended, are immediately introduced into
society of a highly intellectual and polished character,
consisting of consuls and other resident officers, naval
captains and merchants, and American and English
ladies, many of whom are highly accomplished, and
possess greater personal charms than usually falls to the
lot of even the fair sex. Embracing the missionary
ladies, there are about thirty in Honolulu, whose pre-
sence would add polish to the very best society our
country affords.
One characteristic of Hawaiian society is peculiarly
striking. It is the almost universal regard paid to the
Sabbam. Whether this arises from a deep religious
feeling or froia custom, I cannot say ; but certainly
there are few places of the same extent where more
decency and order are observed on this day than are
apparent in Honolulu. With the exception of a few of
the oldest residents, who have always habituated them-
selves to the license and misrule of heathenism, all the
foreign residents are regular in their attendance at the
house of God. Indeed, it is very seldom that the quiet
of the Sabbath is broken, either by strangers or the
natives themselves.
Though there is a class in Honolulu that " look into
the cup when it is red, that continue till night, till wine
inflame them," yet I should not be doing justice to t'le
society of the place, if I did not bear witness to the
general prevalence of temperance. During the three
Mill
232
SANDWICH ISLANDS.
S < !%
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months which I have spent on the islands, I have seldom
seen a drunken man, either native or foreigner. There
are no beggars parading the streets, few petty thefts
committed, no robberies, seldom an assault or act of
violence, unless provoked by a white man. Yet, not-
withstanding all this, and all that has been done for their
beneht, the state of the native Hawaiians is still truly
deplorable. To call them a christianized, civilized,
happy, and prosperous people, would be to mislead the
public mind in relation to their true condition. All
these terms when applied to the Hawaiians, should be
greatly qualified. Their state appears to be that spoken
of by the prophet Zechariah as a day which should be
neitner light nor dark, with this difference, perhaps, that
in the case of the Hawaiians, there is still more of night
than of day, more of darkness than of light. To an
inquiry which I made of the Rev. Lowel Smith, one of
the missionaries in Honolulu, concerning the prosperity
of the natives, I received this reply : " The evident
tendencjr of things is downward." Downward it is
rapidly, in point of numbers, and if the ratio of decrease
shall continue the same for only a few years, it does not
require the eye of a prophet to see what will be the
result.
The epitaph of the nation will be written, and Anglo
Saxons will convert the islands into another West
Indies.
•'!f:.v/' '»-;'
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CHAPTER Xn.
■'. ?/
Return to Oregon — Embarkation — Passengers — Horace Holden — Thrilling story —
The whaleman — Voy.ige — Arrival in the Columbia River — Disagreeable navi-
gation — Yearly meeting of the Missionaries — Appointments — Arrival of Rev.
Gtoorge Gang — Reasons for his appointment — Great changes — Mr. Lee —
George Abemethy — Powers of the new Superintendent — Special meeting —
Voyage — Laymen dismissed — Miscellaneous — Transporting supplies — Another
meeting — Oregon Institute — Finances of the Mission brought to a dose — Nura-
ber of Missionaries returned — Number remaining in the field. .#' '
On the morning of the 3rd day of April, it was
announced by Captain Couch that the Chenamus was
again ready for sea, and that the passengers were expec-
ted to be on board at nine o'clock. According to the
arrangement before Mr. Lee's departure, we had secured
our passage, and* were ready to obey the summons to
embark, and the following^ evening we had lost sight of
the beautiful "Isles of the South," and were dancing
northward over the waves of the great Pacific. Among
our fellow passengers were Dr. J. L. Babcock and family,
who were returning to Oregon, to resume their places
in the mission, and Mr. Horace Holden and family, who
had resided some time on the island of Kaui, where they
had been employed in the manufacture of sugar. He
had formerly been employed in the whaling business,
and on one of his voyages his vessel was wrecked, and
he was cast away, with a few of his companions, on one
of the Pelew Islands.
Nearly all his fellow sufferers were cruelly mur-
dered by the savages before his eyes, and he saved him-
self from the same fate only dv submitting without
resistance, to all the indignities and cruelties that savage
ingenuity could invent to torment a man without killing
him. They stripped him of his clothing, and then, with
10*
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234
RETURN TO OREGON.
i
i il|i
a kind of pinchers, pulled every hair from his body; they
bound him down to the ground, and then in a most cruel
manner, tattooed upon his breast and arms, the most
hideous and indelible figures, and then pronounced him
worthy to live and be their slave. Remaining with them
for more than a year, at length, to his inexpressible joy,
a vessel visited the island, and he was released from his
intolerable wretchedness. Returning to Boston, he
published a brief narrative of his shipwreck and captiv-
ity, and soon after married, and with his wife sailed for
the Sandwich Islands. With an interesting family he
now goes to Oregon with the intention of spending the
remainder of his life.
The third day from Oahu we were boarded by Captain
Sawyer, a whaleman, whose vessel had sprung a leak so
that it required the constant exertions of his men at
pumping^ to keep her afloat. The Captain told us that
if the leak increased it was doubtful whether he suc-
ceeded in getting her into port, but said he should do his
utmost k J accomplish it. He said he had pumped out of
her "all of the Pacific Ocean," and when he left be
requested us to report him the first opportunity, that if
he failed in getting her in, it would be Known what had
become of hun.
After this nothing especial transpired on our voyage
demanding notice; the wind and weather were favorable
so that we made fine progress every day, and on the
twentieth, after leaving port, we made tlie high lands
north of the mouth of the Columbia River.
Crossing the bar in safety, in a few hours we came to
anchor in the river off Fort George, where we found it
exceedingly pleasant again to set our feet on terra firma.
Weighing anchor the following day, we ascended the
Columbia, but owing to the intricacy of the navigation,
we did not gain the mouth of the Wallamette River,
until three days after. So slow was our progress in the
brig that Dr. Babcock, Mr. Holden and myself requested
and obtained the use of the barge, to ascend the river
to the Wallamette Falls. Taking our families with us,
we labored with the oar until towards evening, when we
:!iii
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RETURN TO OREGON.
285
arrived at the foot of the strong rapids, one mile below
the falls. Unable to ascend the rapids with the use of
our oars, we were obliged to get into the river where
the water was up to our waists, and almost as cold as
ice, and draw up the boat by main strength. In doing
this we were obliged to remain in the water for more
than an hour, and, until we became so benumbed that
we could scarcely stand upon our feet. However, we
gained the head of the rapids in safety, and in a half an
hour after, were comfortably seated by the fireside of
our good friends, Mr. and Mrs. George Abernethy, of
the Oregon mission.
The mission had been left by Mr. Lee, under the
superintendency of Rev. David Leslie; and as the yearly
meeting of the missionaries took place soon after our
arrival, it was arranged for me to supply Oregon City
and Tuality Plains with preaching, while Mr. Leslie
supplied the Wallamette settlement, and Mr. Waller was
to preach to the Indians along the Wallamette River,
Mr. Parrish to supply the station on Clatsop Plains, and
Mr. Perkins still to remain at the Dalls.
Four missionaries had returned to the United States,
the station at Puget's Sound had been abandoned, and
the four appointments mentioned above connected with
the mission school and the various secular departments,
constituted the Oregon mission, when the Rev. George
Gary, the newly appointed superintendent, arrived at
Wallamette Falls on the 1st day of June, 1844.
Mr. Gary had been appointed to supercede Mr. Lee in
the superintendency of the mission in consequence of the
dissatisfaction of the Board in New York with the latter,
arising from the supposition founded in the statements
of missionaries, oral and written, that they " had been
misled as to the necessity of so great a number of mis-
sionaries in Oregon," and from the to them, " unaccount-
able fact that they had not been able to obtain any
satisfactory report of the manner in which the large
appropriations to the late reinforcement had been dis-
bursed." These objections, however valid in the esti-
mation of the Board, should not be considered as any
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RETURN TO OREGON.
disparagement to the character of Mr. Lee. Changes
inconceivably great with respect to the Indians of Ore-
gon took place betwixt the time the great reinforcement
was called for, and the time of their arrival in the
Columbia River. The natives were wasting away
during the time, like the dews of the morning, so that
Mr. Lee himself, on his return to Oregon with the rein
forcement, was not among the least disappointed.
Other persons have fallen into the same mistake with
respect to the Indians. The Rev. Mr. Parker, in his
exploring tour, which took place only the year previous
to Mr. Lee*s first return, according to his representa-
tions, found the Indians very numerous, and everywhere
desiring missionaries to come among them. For in-
stance, the Callapooah tribe in the valley of the Walla-
mette, where Mr. Lee established his mission, Mr.
Parker represents as numbering, in 1836, over eight
thousand souls; and in 1840, six hundred were all that
could be found in that valley. Similar changes had
taken place in other tribes, changes that no human wis-
dom could possibly have foreseen. Besides this, at the
time the call was made for the great reinforcement,
there were but very few whites in Oregon, and the
missionaries had been obliged to devote much of their
time to manual labor for the purpose of procuring a
subsistence, and as no one could have imagined that the
country would have been so soon supplied with an indus-
trious population of Americans, it was judged essential
and important by Mr. Lee and his coadjutors in the
work, that the mission should be supplied with a variety
of secular men, embracing farmers, mechanics, account-
ants, &c., whose labors would relieve the missionaries
from temporal pursuits, and enable them to devote their
time to the spiritual interests of the people. It is by no
means certain that the Missionary Board, with all its
foresight, placed in the same position that Mr. Lee and
his brethren occupied in Oregon at that time, would not
have come to the same conclusion.
With regard to the objection against Mr. Lee, arising
from his not furnishing the Board with the desirable
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RETURN TO OREGON.
287
report concerning the disbursements of the large appro-
priation, it should be observed that no such charge of
delinquency appears against him up to the time of the
appointment of the great reinforcement. Every thing
with respect to the use of money appears to have been
done to the entire satisfaction of the Board, and resolu-
tions were passed, and articles published in the Christian
Advocate and Journal, and other papers, commendatory
of the character and course pursued by our " excellent
superintendent;" but when the business of the mission
became more complicated, in consequence of the ap-
pointment of a large number of men of a variety of
pursuits, it was found necessary to appoint a financial
agent, or mission steward, whose business it should be
to keep an exact account of the manner in which the
funds of the mission were expended, and to prepare the
annual reports of the disbursements. Mr. George Aber-
nethy, of New York, than whom but few men could be
found better qualified to bear its responsibilities, was
appointed to this important post. I am aware that Mr.
Lee, as the superintendent of the mission, was the re-
sponsible man, but after the accounts of the mission
were committed to the keeping of Mr. Abernethy, it
was impossible for Mr. Lee, or any other man, to make
out the reports, except Mr. Abernethy himself. To him
every thin^ was clear, and the manner in which every
dollar of the mission's money was expen^^ed could be
accounted for, by a reference to his well kept books.
If the Board was disappointed in not receiving a satis-
factory report, it is doubtless chargeable upon the unset-
tled state of the mission for the first two years after the
arrival of the large reinforcement, and the multiplicity
of business upon the hands of the superintendent, and
the missionary steward. Be this as it may, the Mission-
ary Board, at a regular meeting held July 19th, 1843,
recommended to tn^ bishop having charge of foreign
missions, either the appointment of a special agent to
proceed to Oregon and investigate the financial concerns
of the mission, or supercede Mr. Lee by a new superin-
tendent. The latter course was decided upon by the
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bishop, and in the September following it was announced
that the Rev. George Gary of the Black River Confer-
ence was appointed to the superintendency of the Oregon
mission.
The instructions to the new superintendent were few,
but he was clothed with discretionary power, and had
the destiny of missionaries, laymen, property and all,
put into his hands. With this unlimited authority Mr.
Gary on arriving in Oregon, entered at once upon the
delicate and responsible duties which devolved upon
him.
On the 5th of June, Mr. Gary, myself, and our fami-
lies left the fails and proceeded up the Wallamette
River in a canoe, for the purpose of attending a meeting
of the missionaries, called by the superintendent at the
house of Rev. David Leslie, in the upper settlement.
The distance to travel was about fifty miles, twenty by
water, and thirty by land. We had made arrangements
for persons to meet us at the Butte with means of land
traveling, and expected to get through in a day, and
therefore had not prepared for camping out; but opposed
by the strength of the current, and our horses failing to
arrive in time, we preferred to make ourselves as com-
fortable as possible under the wide spread branches of
a majestic fir, to traveling during the night. This was
Mr. and Mrs. Gary's first encampment in Oregon.
Though we had no bedding to keep our bodies warm dur-
ing the night, yet, fortunately for our hunery stomachs,
we had left of what we had provided mr the day a
a quarter of a large fresh salmon. This I filled with
splinters to prevent its falling to pieces while cooking,
and then fastening in the forks of a stick, roasted it
before the fire. This, with tea and bread, constituted
our supper. As the night was not cold we enjoyed a
comfortable rest, though our bed was mother earth, and
our covering the canopy of heaven, i ^? •
On the 6th, arrived at the house of Mr. Leslie, and
the following day the missionaries were all collected,
with the exception of Mr. Perkins and Mr. Brewer, at
the Dalls. The meeting was called for the purpose of
RKTURN TO URROON.
230
consultation concerning the various departnnents of the
mission, and though commenced at an early hour of the
day, such was the interest involved that the investiga-
tion continued until daylight the next morning. Some
important changes in the mission were agitated, and it
was decided to sell the mission property at Clatsop, near
the mouth of the Columbia River, consisting of a farm,
buildings, and stock. Mr. Gary informed the laymen
connected with the mission, that he intended to dismiss
them, and proposed to defray their expenses home, if
thev wished to return, or pay them an equivalent in
such property as the mission possessed, in Oregon.
With the exception of one, they preferred to remain in
the country, and accordingly mission property was dis-
bursed among the different families to the amount of
from eight hundred to a thousand dollars each. The
course adopted by Mr. Gary in disposing of the laymen
belonging to the mission, was as satisfactory to the
latter, as it was just and honorable in the superintendent.
All the secular members of the mission were thus hon-
orably discharged, except Mr. Brewer, the farmer at
the Dalls. It was thought the interests of that station
required his continuance. The appointments of the
missionaries which took place at the yearly meeting
before Mr. Gary's arrival, were confirmed.
On Sunday, 9th, preached at the mission school-house
to upwards of thirty persons, a good congregation for
Oregon ; also at the house near the saw-mill. These
houses have been erected since the arrival of the large
reinforcement. They occupy a beautiful location, and
the school-house is by far the most sightly building in
Oregon. It is seventy-five by forty-eight feet on the
ground, three stories high, and cost eight thousand
dollars.
On Wednesday, the 12th, left the mission school to
return to the falls, leaving my family behind for the time
being, intending to return and get them after a few days.
As it had been settled that I should remain at the falls
for at least one year, I purchased a couple of cows with
their calves for the purpose of furnishing my family
240
RBTURN TO OREGON.
with the luxury of milk and butter. The distance from
the mission school to the falls by land, is fifty miles, and
about one-third of the way is forest. Towards evening
of the first day, while urcinff my animals along the nar-
row zig-zag Indian trail leading through the dark forest
which skirts the Molala River, the piteous and well
known cry of a panther but a few rods from the path,
brought man and beast at once to a stand. Remaining for
a moment, <.. A discovering that the beast of prey was
disposed to let us pass, I pushed on as fast as possible,
desiring to get as far as I could from the haunts of my
troublesome neighbor, before dark, for fear my animals
might be attacked during the night. Arriving at nine
o'clock on a little prairie between the Molala and Har-
chauke Rivers, I tied my calves to a small oak tree with
a lasso, built a fire in a small hut which one of the set-
tlers had built some time before, and abandoned, and
rolling myself in my blanket, lay down to sleep. In the
morning I found all safe, the panther had kept his dis-
tance. Loosing my animals i proceeded on, and at
night arrived in safety at the falls.
Friday, 14th. Returned to the upper settlement, and
preached the following Sabbath again at the mission
school.
Wednesday, 19th. Having procured a quantity of
supplies, consisting of wheat, beef, potatoes, &c., I hired
it conveyed to the Bute, and thence took it in a canoe
down to the falls. This is the manner of transporting
provisions in the country — a very laborious and danger-
ous method. >
Spent a few days in forwarding my house, which I
had purchased in Oregon City soon after we returned
from the islands, being quite solicitous to occupy it as
soon as possible. Mr. Gary and his wife have decided
to reside with us in preference to keeping house. They
are still in the upper settlement, where Mr. Gary is
arranging business with the lay members preparatory to
their dismission. ; ,
Sabbath, 23d. Preached to a congregation of about
forty persons in the Methodist Church at the falls, and
BBTUBN TO OIIKGON.
241
proved the truth of the Saviour'i promise^ ** Lo, I am
with you."
Tuesday, 25th. Returned to the settlement above, to
attend a meeting of the Methodist Society at the mission
school, the following day. The meeting was called by
Mr. Gary, and related to the Oregon Institute.
Ever since soon after the arrival of the large rein-
forcement in 1840, the people of Oregon had been
endeavoring to establish a literary institution bearing
the name of the *• Oregon Institute." They had so far
succeeded as to secure a very eligible location about
three miles from the Oregon Mission school, and build a
house which was nearly completed, at an expense of
about three thousand dollars. It was now proposed by
Mr. Gary to sell the Oregon Mission school house and
premises, and disband the school ; and though he had an
opportunity to sell it to the Roman Catholics for a high
price, he preferred to sell it to the trustees of the Oregon
Institute for much less. It was exceedingly desirable on
the part of the trustees, to secure this property, as, from
the location of the farm, embracing a mile square, it
was very Valuable, and the house itself cost the mission
not lets than eight thousand dollars. Having an oppor-
tunity to sell the first mentioned premises without much
sacrifice, they were disposed of, and the Oregon Mission
school-house and farm were purchased at an expense of
four thousand dollars, and are hereafter to be known as
the Oregon Institute. For the promotion of the interests
of the church, and for the welfare of this rising country,
a more judicious appropriation of the property of the
former mission school could not have been made. By
selling it to the Catholics, Mr. Gary could have taken
more money for it, but it would have been converted
into a nunnery. Every Protestant will say, " Rather
give it all away, than desecrate it to so impious a pur-
pose."
The institution stands upon an elevated portion of a
beautiful plain, surrounded with the most delightful
scenery, and at a point which, at some future day, is
destined to be one of considerable importance.
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242
RETURN TO OREGON.
The building is beautifully proportioned, beinff seventy-
five feet long and forty-eight wide, including the wings,
and three stories high. When finished it will not only
present a fine appearance without, but will be comrpo-
dlous, and well adapted to the purposes intended to be
accomplished within. It is already so far advanced that
a school is now in successful operation, under the tuition
of one well qualified to sustain its interests. Already it
numbers more students than did either the Cazenovia
Seminary or the Willbraham Acadamy, at their com-
mencement, and who can tell but that it may equal, if
not exceed both those institutions in importance, as well
as usefulness. Though I cannot say that it is the only
hope of Oregon, for whether it lives or dies, Oregon will
yet be redeemed from the remains of Paganism and the
gloom of Papal darkness by which she is enshrouded;
but the sentiment forces itself on the mind that the sub-
ject of the Oregon Institute is vital to the interests of
the Methodist Episcopal church in this country. If it
lives, it will be a luminary in the moral heavens of
Oregon, shedding abroad the light of knowledge after its
founders shall have ceased to live. But if It dies, our
sun is set, and it is impossible to tell what will succeed.
Perhaps a long and cheerless night of Papal darkness,
but more probably, others, more worthy of the honor
than ourselves, will come forth to mould the moral mass
according to their own liking, and give direction to the
literature of Oregon.
.'- After the transfer of the premises of the Oregon
Mission School to the trustees of the Oregon Institute,
all the remaining financial departments connected with
the mission, were disposed of principally to those lay-
men who had been dismissed from the mission, and the
property thus sold, amounted to upwards of twenty-six
thousand dollars. The finances of the Oregon Mission
were thus summarily brought to a close, and the mission
was not only relieved of a ponderous load, but assumed
a decidedly spiritual character.
Previous to the arrival of Mr. Gary, four of the
preachers, besides Mr. Jason Lee, namely : W. W. Kone,
RETURN TO OREGON.
243
J. H Frost, J. P. Richmond, and Daniel Lee, had re-
turned to the United States ; consequently, after the
dismission of the laymen, there remained connected
with the mission five preachers, namely: Greorge Gary,
the superintendent, David Leslie, A. F. Waller, H. ft.
W. Perkins and G. Hines. H. R. W. Perkins in the
latter part of the summer of 1844 also returned to the
United States, leaving but few regular preachers in the
country.
These, disencumbered from all financial embarrass-
ments, addressed themselves to their work in the various
portions of the country assigned them, A. F. Waller
filling the place made vacant by the departure of Mr.
Perkins at the Dalls, David Leslie in the upper part of
the Wallamette settlement, and G. Gary and G. Hines
at the Wallamette Falls and Tuality Plams. The Dalls
was the only Indian Mission now sustained, and both
here and among the white settlements, it was necessary
for the missionary constantly to expose himself to fatigue
and dangers in hunting up the people to give them the
word of life. Fording, and swimming rivers, sleeping
on the ground and in the rain, and going without food,
were no uncommon incidents in the life of the Oregon
missionary.
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?si tX
CHAPTER Xm.
V- -ir _Ji:.
M I
Pinal departure and voyage home — Notice of Captain Sylvester — Arrangements to
leave — Mode of departure — Vancouver again — Clatsop Plains — On board the
brig Chenamus — Difficult navigation — Danger — Get into the Bay — Fair
breese — £xit — Fellow passengers — T. J. Hubbard — Wave and Devenport —
Mode of taking a porpoise — Scarcity of men — Scarcity of incident — Pilot fish —
Make land — Spoken by the English brig Frolic — Shipping — Arrival at Oahu —
Reception — Review of the Mission.
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On the 10th of August, 1845, notice was given by
aptain Sylvester, that the Brig Chenamus v^ould sail
from the Wallamette River for Boston by the way of
the Sandwich Islands about the 1st of September, and
that a few passengers might be comfortably accommo-
dated on board. Mr. Gary began already to consider
that his work in Oregon was accompUshed, and he felt
quite solicitous to avail himself of the opportunity of-
fered, to return home; but kindly proposed to leave it
altogether with the writer, to say which, whether the
latter, or himself, should be the favored one, at the same
time assuring me, that if he left, and I should remain in
the country, he should leave the superintendency of the
mission with me. This, after a night of the utmost
solicitude, brought me to the conclusion to close up my
missionary labors, and leave the scene of toil and dan-
ger, and set my face towards my native land. Rev. Mr.
Gary, as the superintendent of the mission, made ar-
rangements with the Captain for my passage, and that
of my family, consisting of Mrs. Hines, her sister. Miss
JuHa Bryant, her sister, and Lucy Anna Maria Lee, the
daughter of .Rev. Jason Lee, who had already returned
to the United States.
The amount required was one hundred and fifty dol-
lars from Oregon to the Sandwich Islands, and five
HOMEWARD VOYAOfi.
94ft
hundred and twenty from the Islands to Boston, by tho
way of Cape Horn.
Through the kind assistance of Mr. and Mrs. Gary,
and Mr. and Mrs. Abernethy, we found ourselves pre-
pared to leave Oregon City at the Wallamette Falls, on
the 29th of August, 1845. The brig had already dropped
down the river, and it was necessary for us to descend
to the mouth of the Columbia in an open boat. Pro-
curing a skiff which belonged to the riHSsion, I loaded
my baggage into it, leaving a place in the centre for the
accommodation of my family. After dining with our
kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Abernethy, we repaired to
the boat to take our departure. Adjusting the family in
their place, I gave one oar into the hands of Kana, my
Hawaiian servant, and the other to James Hemingway,
an Indian boy who had resided with us for some time,
and myself took the stern oar. We waved a farewell
to our friends who stood on the top of the bluff above
us, and silently, but not without the deepest emotion,
glided otf into the strong current of the river. Quickly
the beautiful cataract and its flourishing village were
hidden from our view by the dark point of fir timber
which we had left behind us.
Rowing twenty-eight miles, we arrived, late in the
evening, within two miles of Vancouver, but not wishing
to disturb the |?entlemen of the fort at so late an hour,
we encamped for the night. Next morning 'ent up to
the fort to complete our preparations for sea; were very
kindly received by James Douglass, Esq., who by his
friendly attentions, and acts of benevolence, paved the
way to render our voyage to the islands much more
agreeable than it otherwise would have been.
Saturday, at two, p. m., left Fort Vancouver, and
descending the Columbia ten miles, encamped in a grove
of willows near the margin of the river, where we re-
mained quietly, during the Holy Sabbath.
Monday, the 2nd, we continued our voyage, and after
three days of excessive labor and fatigue, accompanied
with imminent dangers and exposures, during which we
knew not the luTury of eating or sleeping under the
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246
HOMEWARD VOYAGE.
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cover of a roof, we arrived in safety at the house of
Rev. J. L. Parrish, on Clatsop Plains, about seven miles
in the rear of Point Adams at the mouth of the Colum-
bia. Here we remained until Saturday the sixth, when
we were informed by Captaii* Sylvester that the brig
lay in Young's Bay, and was ready to receive us on
board. Taking an affecting leave of our old friends Mr.
and Mrs. Parrish, with whom we had lived on terms of
intimacy in our native land, and with whom we had
suffered the perils of a voyage of more than twenty-
two thousand miles, as well as the dangers and depriva-
tions of a residence among the most savage of men, we
were conducted through a forest of fir to a landing on
the Seapanowan Creek, the mouth of which forms a
good harbor for small craft. Here a boat was sent to
take us off, and at four o'clock, p. m., we found ourselves
comfortably situated on board the brig Chenamus, with
our things nicely packed away in our state rooms, wait-
ing for a favorable wind and tide to take us to sea.
Sunday, 7th. In the mornins the Calapooah, a small
sail-boat, came along side from shore, bringmg vegetables
and beef for the Chenamus. With her I expected Kana,
my Hawaiian, but he had absconded during the night,
choosing rather to remain in Oregon than to go back to
his native island.
Monday, 8th. Weighed anchor in the morning before
sunrise, with the wind in the north-east, and a strong
ebb tide. Soon 'the wind died away, and we found we
were drifting fast on to Sand Island, and were obliged
to come to anchor about one mile and a half from Point
Adams. While we lay here the Cadboro, a small schoo-
ner from Vancouver, bound to Vancouver's Island with
furs, passed \is, but finding herself approaching too near
the point of Sand Island, she also came to anchor. The
wind breezing up a little more fresh, the Chenamus made
another attempt to get across to Baker's Bay, but failing,
again came to anchor, and found herself worse situated
than before. The wind was fair, but the tide bore us
out of the channel. After dinner made a third attempt
to get to the usual anchorage, in Baker's Bay ; but being
HOMCWAKD VOYAGE.
24t
enamus.
baffled by the tide, we were again obliged to anchor in
a very exposed position, where we lay during the night.
The evening of the 10th was exceedingly pleasant,
the wind in the north-west, and the prospects quite fair
for getting out the next day.
Tuesday, 9th. The tables were all turned, the wind
was in the south-east, with the prospect of a gale, the
vessel in no desirable position, but the captain determined
if possible to get into the bay. Accordingly, we weighed
anchor, but made another ineffectual effort to gain our
moorings, as we were obliged to anchor about one mile
and a half from the proper ground. After waiting a
few hours for the tide to favor us, we raised anchor
again, and after tacking about two or three times be-
tween Sand Island and Chenook Spit, we came to anchor
only one half mile nearer the desired haven.
Wednesday, 10th. In the afternoon we succeeded in
getting down - into the bay, and anchoring in a suitable
place to take .the breeze from the north, which is the
only wind that will serve us in crossing the bar of the
Columbia, and for which we made up our minds to wait
patiently, remembering that, in this very place three
years before, we were detained by adverse gales that
lasted as long as the storm of the deluge.
On the 11th and 12th the wind was south and west,
which forbade our leaving the bay, consequently we had
another opportunity of climbing to the top of Cape Dis-
appointment, and surveying the surrounding scenery.
During our detention, at the solicitation of Mrs. H., we
enjoyed a pic-nic of muscles, which we found here in
abundance, with bread, butter, and tea. *
Saturday, 13th. In the morning a fresh breeze sprung
up from the north, and it was evident that we should
bid the dark mountains of Oregon " Good bye," before
night. On shipboard, all was oustle and anxiety, and
about noon the command of the captain was to " Heave
short." Accordingly, the windlass was manned, the
passengers assistinc, and quickly the chain cable was
shortened, so that the brig was directly over the anchor.
We waited a few minutes longer for the proper state of
248
MOBtEWARD VOYAGE.
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the tide, which is half-ebb, and then, at about one o'clock,
the bows of the brig, yielding to the already freshened
breeze, turp«5d towards the dreaded bar, and the rolling
deep. The schooner Cadboro' took the lead, and thoueh
the bar was exceedingly rough, and the mountain swells
broke near us as we passed through the contracted
channel, yet the wind was fresh and fair, and we soon
found ourselves entirely free from all the sand-bars of
the Columbia, and before a seven knot breeze, passing
beautifully on our course over the deep dark waves of
the Pacific Ocean.
Tuesday, 16th. This is the third day since we crossed
the Columbia bar, and as we have been constantly fa-
jH vored with a fair wind, we have made fine progress on
our voyage. Five gentlemen are our fellow passengers,
whose names are. Wave, Devenport, Teck, a Prussian
naturalist, Stewart, and T. J. Hubbard. The last came
to Oregon with Captain Wyeth and Rev. Jason Lee in
1835, and having resided in Oregon sinc^ that time, is
well acquainted with the history of the country. He
was himself connected with a tragical occurrence, the
like of which is quite too common in an Indian country.
The cause of the difficulty was an Indian woman, whom
Hubbard had taken, and was living with as his wife.
Previously, she had looked with favor upon another
man by the name of Thornburgh, and the latter resolved
to take her away from Hubbard, even at the expense
of his life. For this purpose he entered Hubbard's
cabin in the dead of the night, with a loaded rifie, but
Hubbard, having knowledge of his design, had armed
himself with loaded pistols, and discharging one at
Thornburgh as he entered the door, the ball took effect
in the breast of the latter, and he fell, and expired. A
self-constituted jury of inquest, after a thorough exam-
ination of the case, brought in a verdict of ^'Justifiable
homicide."
The manner in which Hubbard and the rest of our
fellow passengers spend ther time on the voyage indi-
cates that they have neitheir become wise nor virtuous
from the history of the past. They seem incapable of
HOMEWARD VOYAGE.
249
interesting themselves, save at backgammon or the card
table, nearly all the time not consumed in eating or
sleeping being employed at one or the other of the two
games.
Wednesday, 17th. Ware and Devenport were suffer-
ing exceedingly from seasickness, and proposed to give
the captain one hundred and fifty dollars to set them off
on the shore of California ; but as a matter of course,
this was inadmissible, and the two gentlemen were
doomed to enjoy the pleasures of one sea voyage. But
one of them declared that he had rather pack a mule
across the Rocky Mountains, than to go to sea ; and
that, if he ever sets his foot on terra firma again, he will
never be caught on another vessel.
In the evening backgammon and seasickness were
both forgotten a short time in the excitement of taking
a large porpoise. This is generally considered a great
treat by seamen, especially those on merchant vessels.
The manner of takm^ them is as follows : a rope is
passed through a block or pulley, which is fastened to
some part of the rigging near the bow of the vessel,
one end of which is tied to a harpoon prepared with a
handle six or eight feet long, so as to render it con-
venient to throw. A sailor ihen fixes himself on the
martingal under the bowsprit, while a few others at
the other end of the rope, stand by to haul in. The
reason for their taking their position at the forward end
of the vessel is this ; the porpoise always plays around
the bow more than any other part, and the rigging under
the bowsprit will admit of a sailor's fixing himself
directly over the porpoise in his frequent approaches to
this point. When thus prepared, and the porpoises
hover around the bow, the harpoon is cast with great
force and precision into the selected victim, and instantly
the water is crimsoned with his blood. When the
" throw " has been a sure one, the word " haul " is
given, and the fish, or animal, is immediately raised
above ^e water, and brought upon deck. The taking
of a piorpoise is one of those exciting evients Which
11
' m
HPM£WAR1> VOYAOC:.
'<«?■'
I* J
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^ii
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occasionally break in upon the monotony of life at sea.
It was judged that the one we took would weigh two
hundred and fifty pounds. It afforded several gallons
of oil, and meat enough to last the sailors for a number
of days.
Thursday, 25th. Thus far on our voyage we have
had the most beautiful weather, there havmg been no
head wind to speak of, and but about four hours calm.
We have generally been favored with a gentle breeze
from the north-west, which has wafted us on our direct
course to Oahu at the rate of five and six knots an hour.
This has been exceedingly favorable to u8 on account of
the weakness of our crew, six of the men having run
away from the brig in Oregon, and could not be recov-
ered, leavinff but three efficient men on board of her,
beside her three officers. But the Lord knoweth how
**to temper (or regulate) the winds to the shorn lamb."
We are cheered with the prospect of a speedy pas-
sage to the islands, as we seem to have secured the
north-east trades ; but of this there is no certainty, as
t^e trades are not very regular, and at sea above all
other places, " we know not what a day may bring
forth."
Monday, 29th. We were interested m the discovery
of a sail on our starboard bow, which appeared to be
steerine the same course with us. She was a barque,
probably a whahr from the northern ocean, bound to
the Sandwich Islands, and thence home. Incidents of
interest on this voyage thus far have been exceedingly
scarce, a very great uniformity having characterized the
days we have been at sea. However, the monsters of
the deep, whales, sharks. &c., have from time to time
attracted our notice, while the dark albatros, mother
Carey's chickens, a small sea gull, and the boatswain's
mate marlinspike, or man of war bird, as he is indiffer-
ently called, are all of the feathered tribe W3 have seen.
The last mentioned is a very interesting bird, snow
white, and appears very beautiful as it flits around the
yess^l oji it^ wings of light, as if desiring to find a place
UOHEY/ARD VOYAOB.
Mil
of rait among the moving sparsc It is principally found
between the tropics, and must therefore be considered a
lover of warm weather.
On the 30th crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and as the
wind was very light, we found the heat quite oppressive.
By a very ffood observation on the Ist of October, we
found our latitude to be twenty-two degrees forty-four
miuutes, longitude one hundred and tifty-three degrees,
fifty minutes ; twenty four hour's sail from Oahu before
a seven knot breeze. . The captain walks the deck
whistling for a breeze, and in the evening, behold it
comes, and the sailing is delightful. Those who have
been sick are getting well, and all unite in pronouncing
the voyage thus far, as it regards wind and weather, an
unusually pleasant one.
Thursday, 14th of October. The trades have fresh-
ened up to a strong breeze, and all were delighted with
the prospect of seeing land before night. Borne onward
prosperously, according to expectation, at four o'clock,
the tops of the mountains of the island of Mowi, tower-
ing above the clouds, buL*st upon our view. At sundown
Morotoi, could also be seen, but both soon disappeared
amidst the darkness of night. We continued our course
until four o'clock in the morning, when we could dift*
tinctly see the land but a few miles distant, and not
knowing whether we were exactly right in our calcula-
tions, we lay to for the hght of day to discover unto us
precisely our condition. At six o'clock, a. m., we found
ourselves about six miles from Morotoi, with Oahu on
our starboard bow, about thirty miles distant. Soon
after sunrise a sail appeared on our stern, and evidently
neared us very fast, while two other sail appeared on
our bow, and seemed to be steering directly towards the
harbor. While we were passing around Diamond Head,
and the harbor and shipping, with the town of Honolulu,
were breaking upon our view, the vessel which had
been coming up on our stern, passed ua so near that our
yard arms were but a few feet from hers. She proved
to be her Britanic Mmesty's Brig Frolic of sjixteen guns.
Her commanding omomf hailed us as die passed, and
358
UOSIEWARO VOYAOB*
If
\ 9 ■« r
ini .,
'ib
inquired if we had seen the British Frigate America on
our way down. We answered no. He replied that
she left England with the design of visiting Oregon.
The brig was a beautiful craft, but probably would not
consider it much of a "Frolic" to take a turn-a-bout
with an American " Wasp."
.1 The patriotic American very naturally calls to mind
under such circumstances the triumph of the ** Wasp "
over the " Frolic " in the last war, and is led to wonaer
why a " Wasp " has not been continued in the American
Navy.
As we drew near the shipping in the outer harbor we
discovered a number of men of war, one of which was
the British line of battle ship the CoUingwood, Lord Sey-
mour, Admiral, with which the Frolic passed a number
of signals, and approaching her, gave her a salute of
sixteen guns, which was returned by the Admiral.
It was an exciting time on board of our little brig as
we so suddenly emerged from the solitudes of the ocean
into such interesting and noisy scenes.
As a number of vessels were before us, it was neces-
sary for us to come to anchor in the roads, soon after
which we were boarded by the pilot, with whom the
Captain went directly to the shore, promising to send off
a boat to take the passengers ashore before night. This
he accordingly did, and at sundown we landed on the
wharf near the American Consulate, where we found
servants waiting with a small hand wagon to convey
Mrs. H. and the children to the house of Mr. Rogers,
one of the Presbyterian missionaries, where we were
kindly invited to take up our lodgings for a day or two,
or until we could make other provisions.
This is the third time I nave visited the Sandwich
Islands during the last six years, and having mingled
several months with both foreigners and natives, I have
had an opportunity of making observations of no very
superficial character; and as the result, I am compelled
to entertain the opinion that the public generally, and
particularly the christian world, entertain very erroneous
views in Felation to the true condition of the aborigines of
li!iiii.|«:
HOMEWARD VOYAOB.
353
these islands. Great changes have indeed been effected,
and vast improvements made among the Hawaiians
through the instrumentality of missionary labor, yet,
after all, the amount of real good accomplished, I fear,
is not so ffreat as the christian world has been led to
believe. Keligion, in every department of Hawaiian
society, however genuine the system which is taught them
may be, is of a very superficial character. Of this the
missionary residing among them, is more sensible than
any other man can be, and one of them, in answer to
the inquirv, " how many of your people give daily evi-
dence of being christians ]" replied " none, if you look
for the same evidence which you expect will be exhibited
by christians at home." Indeed, it is a source of the
greatest affliction with the missionaries, that all their
efforts are ineffectual in eradicating that looseness of
morals, which attaches itself so adhesively to the Ha-
waiian character, and which is every where exhibiting
itself in the gambling, thievish, and adulterous habits of
the people of all classes, from the hut of the most de-
graded menial, to the royal palace.
One fact will show the astonishing extent to which
promiscuous intercourse prevails. Relationship is always
traced from the mother, and not from the father, as in
all civilized countries, and indeed it is not an easy matter
for a Hawaiian to tell who his father is.
The practice of promiscuous assemblages of males
and females in the streets of Honolulu, is as common as
it is odious and demoralizing. Crowds of this descrip-
tion may be seen at all times of day and night, where
conduct may be witnessed, and conversation heard, of
the most reprehensible character.
In attending the native churches one is struck with the
listlesness and inattention which prevail in the congrega-
tion. No matter how important the truths, or how
impressive the manner of the speaker, he seems scarcely
to gain the hearmg of the ear; and seldom do the wor-
shippers give any satisfactory evidence that they feel
any of the soul hallowing influences resulting from an
evangelical waiting before God. The Islanders are far
354
HOMBWARD VOTAeB*
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behind the Indilins of Oregon in paying attention to the
preaching of the gospel. If once you can get an Indian
to consent to hear you, you are iure of his attention till
your speech is closed. But as to the effect produced,
there is little to boast of in either case.
There are the same cold and callous nature, the same
unaccountable stupidity and brutal insensibility to contend
with, in both, and these array themselves against all the
efforts made to overcome them, with disheartening effect.
Notwithstanding these things, which the faithful chron-
icler of facts cannot pass over without mentioning, there
are, on the other hand, evidences sufficient to establish
the vast importance and utility of the missionary cause.
For a particular account of the islands and of the mis-
sion, the reader is referred to the notes of a former viidit.
m *j4
w-
.*j'' "^W . .ati ■!
CHAPTER XIV.
Voyage to China — Change of calculation* — Embark on board the Leiand — Acci-
dent — Departure — Cabin aasociates — The Captain — Rules to judge of charac-
ter — The Island of Origan — The Ladronea — Dangerous reefs — Gale — Bashu
Island* — Spanish Possessions in the Paciflc — Formosa — Chinese Sea — Ship
Montreal — Ty phongs — The contendint: Pilots ~ Appearance of the coast of
China — Arrival at Hong Kong — Reception of Keying — Review of the British
troops — Sabbath disregarded — The Rev. Charles OutslafT — Island of Hong
Kong — City of Victoria — Population — Schools — Morrison Education Society —
Morrison Hill — Success of the School — Rev. S. R. Brown — Churches — Mis-
sions — Where established - Missionaries — Climate of Hong Kong — Soldiers'
Burying Ground — Wesleyan Methodists — Short voyage — City of Macao —
Grand Prior — Bazaar — Temple — Camoen's Cave — Voyage to Canton — De-
scription of the '' Provincial City " — Adventures In the city — Temple of
Honan '— Dr. Parker — Dr. Devan — Proclamation of Keying — Counter Pro-
clamation — Flower Garden — Dr. Bridgeman — Great excitement — Danger of
an outbreak — Thnut out of the city — Night excursion — On board the Leiand —
Things that strike the foreigner — Boat population — Pirates.
Friday, October 10th. I was informed by Captain
Sylvester that the Chenamus, in which we expected to
take passage to the United States, would not be ready
to sail under two or three months, and there being
several vessels ready to sail for the States by the way
of China, 1 resolved, if possible, to obtain a passage in
one of them. Applying to Mr. Finlay, the supercargo
of the ship Leiand, which had just arrived at Honolulu
from Callao, and was designing in a day or two to con-
tinue her voyage to China, and thence direct to New
York, I was at first informed that all the staterooms but
one were occupied, and there being four of us he could
not make us comfortable in that. At first we relinquished
the idea of sailing in that ship, but ascertaining that a
young gentleman nad taken the room adjoining the spare
one who expected to leave the vessel at Hong Kong, I
concluded that, if Mr. Finley would allow me the privi-
)i
256
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
Iii<
lege of sleeping on the sofa or floor of the cabin, Mrs.
H. and the two girls could, for the short space of thirty
days, get along with the one room, and after that, the
disembarkation of the young gentleman would give us
the privilege of occupancy of Doth. This I suggested
to Mr. FinTay, and readily obtained a proposal from him
to take us to New York by the way of Canton for eight
hundred dollars. As it would have cost me one hundred
dollars' per month to have remained at the islands, and
five hundred and twenty for passage on the Chenamus, 1
concluded that the expense of the latter course would be
nearly, if not quite, equal to the passage by the way of
China. This, connected with other reasons whicn in-
volve the character of the Chenamus, both as it regards
ner accommodations, and the morals which prevailed on
board, had the influence to bring me to the conclusion
to accept of the proposal of Mr. Finlay, and return to
my native land by the way of the Celestial Empire.
Accordingly, on Wednesday, the 15th of October, at
two o'clock, p. M., we embarked on board the Leland,
and as the wind was fair, had a prospect of going to sea
before night.
Twenty-two vessels had been waiting for the southern
gales to subside, and the northern breeze to come to
enable them to put to sea, and by good luck ours was
the fourth on the pilot's list. A little accident came well
nigh detaining us in the harbor over night. As our anchor
was raised our vessel was driven by the strong trade wind
directly down to another ship, stern first, doing but
little damage however, but rendering it necessary for us
to warp up against tl . wind for some distance, before
we could get clear of the ships that lay in our track.
Extricating ourselves from this difliculty, just as the
sable curtains of the evening began to render it diflicult
for us to discern the outlines of the interesting island of
Oahu, our pilot. Captain Penhollow, who had conducted
us out of the inner harbor through the narrow winding
channel that opens a passage through the coral reef with
which the island is environed, wishing us a happy and
prosperouB voyage, returned towards the glimmering
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
267
le southern
lights of the city of Honolulu, while to the command,
" square away the yards," our ship's prow was pointed
to the westward, and before the silent hour of twelve,
the fast receding island had disappeared amidst the gloom
of surrounding darkness. On leaving this delightful
Oasis of the ocean, where we had spent so many hours
of unmingled enjoyment, we could but feel those sensa-
tions which moved the heart of the poet to sing as he
left his island home,
** Shades of eveninflr cloM not o'er us, ■■■^ i
Leave our lonely bark awhile ! . <
Mom, alas ! will not restore us
Tender dim and distant isle; ^ '' '■■■■' ' ' ",
Still my fancy can discoyer
Sunny spots where friends may dwell;
Darker shadows round us hover.
Isle of beauty. Fare thee well !*'
A gale had long been blowing from the south, and
consequently the sea was very nigh, and for two or
three of the first days the passengers were nearly all
confined to their births with sea sickness, but the 20th
found us on a comparatively smooth sea, gliding along
before a gentle breeze from the earth-east, m the enjoy-
ment of neaJth, and consequently qualified to take obser-
vations in regard to the ship, officers, crew and passen-
gers, with whom we were to be so intimately connected,
and with the interests of whom our own were to be so
closely blended, during a voyage encompassing three-
quarters of the glol'e.
Our fellow passengers consisted of Rev. A. B. Smith,
wife, and three orpnan children, the daughters of the
late Mr. Lock, of Oahu, Mrs. Hooper, the wife of Wm.
Hooper, Esq., acting Consul at Oahu, two children, and
Mr. Sheliber, the young gentleman mentioned above.
Besides these, Mr. Finlay, the supercargo, occupied a
state room in the cabin, and this constituted our cabin
society, as the Captain stopped principally in the round
house, on deck. Our first impressions regarding our
associates in the cabin, were quite favorable, but the
Captain we found to be a surly jack tar, well acquainted
258
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
;l
ill!
with Biliingsgats vocabulary, and ready to draw npcm its
resources on all occasions. Indeed, it appeared from
the amazing facility with which he could call tp his aid
the most vulgar kind of swearing, that he must have
taken his regular gradations in the high school of his
Satanic majesty himself. Mr. Finlay, who had control
of the business of the vessel, siK>wed at the outset, a
desire to render his passengers comfortable, in the abun-
dant provisions, consisting of vegetables, pigs, poultry,
&c., with which he caused the ship to be supplied.
As the Leland was built in packet style, we found the
cabin fine, and the state-rooms quite commodious ; and
after a few days' experience we were obUged to admit
that the table of the Leland was better furnished than
that of any other vessel in which we had sailed.
We were favored with gentle breezes from the north-
east and east which carried us along from five to seven
knots an hour, without anything in particular to break
the monotony of the voyage until the 6th of November,
when at three, p. m., we made Origan, the northernmost
of the Ladrone Islands. The appearance of this island,
as we passed along by it about six miles off, was exceed-
ingly interesting, perhaps more so to us in consequence
of our not having been for raany days entertained with
the si^ht of any object but the sky over our heads, the
bouncUess expanse of waters, around us, and the little
world in which we were floating. This island is very
high, nearly round, and rising gradually from its mar-
gin, it hides its summit above the clouds. It appeared
remarkably green as if covered with timber, or with
other vegetation of a luxuriant growth.
The island was visited two years ago by Mr. Dwight
from the United States, and some twenty or thirty per-
sons, some of whom were white men, and some natives
were found upon it. The white men appeared to be of
the sailor class, but could not give a very good account
of themselves.
The Ladrone Islands are numerous, and the entire
group belongs to the once famous, but now crumbling
kiogdom of Spain. The two southernmost are now
"fM:
VOYAGE TO CHIN4.
250
principally occupied by Spaniardi, and are used by
Spain as a kind of Botany Bay, or place of banishment
for state prisoners. Though their climate is delightful
and some of them are fine fertile islands, yet they are
of but little consequence to the world ; and this is
doubtless owing to the weakness and indolence of their
f)ossessors. Since they were first discovered by M agel-
anni, 1521, they have been inhabited by a set of thieves
and pirates, and hence they are called *^ Ladrone (pirate)
Islands."
West of the Ladrones are a number of dangerous
reefs, which have been seen by several navigators ; and
it was our fortune to get directly among them. How-
ever, Providence smiled upon us, and we passed them
all in safety, though while exposed to them, we were
visited by a tremendous gale from the south, which not
only prostrated us with seasickness, but threatened to
drive us into the caverns of the deep. The waves
rolled in mountains, and dashing around us in frightful
pyramids, and comminglinff their deafening roar with
the howling of the fitful blasts, struck terror into the
brave hearts of the sons of the ocean, and admonished
all to fear and tremble before Him who rideth upon tlie
wings of the wind. After four days of incessant gales
from every point of compass, the wind subsided, a calm
succeeded, a breeze followed from the north and brought
with it the blessings of health to the sick, and prosper- ^y
on our voyage.
On the 14th of November the appearance of .^*»>-'^^e
birds, and now and then an object floating upon Jio sur*
face of the water, gave signs that we were approaching;
land. On the evening of the 15th, we passed through
between the north Bashee Islands, and the Tobal,
Tobago, and Hima. The Bashee Islands all belong to
Spain. Many of them are thickly settled, and are said
to be very fertile. All the Spanish islands in this part
of the Pacific Ocean are governed by a captain general,
whose residence is at Manilla, on the island of Luconia.
His government is exeeedingly despotic, and he is only
responsible to the ministry in Spain.
i
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1 1 '■'
fin-
Mr:
i
260
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
Luconia, or Luzon, as it is laid down on some maps,
is said to be a splendid island, viein^ in natural resources
with the far famed island of Java; but from the despotic
nature of its government, and the indolence and jealousy
of the Spaniards, it is of but little consequence to the
crown of Spain.
On Sunday morning, the 16th, the island of Formosa
was descried from the quarter deck. This island, with
the Bashees and Luconia, form a chain which separates
the Chinese Sea from the Pacific Ocean. Formosa was
the first land we saw over which the Emperor of China
sways his sceptre. It is a large island, with many fer-
tile valleys, but the highlands from our vessel appeared
exceedingly barren. It contains a number of large
cities, and the population is exceedingly numerous.
There is no direct business carried on betwixt them and
foreigners, as this is a part of the Celestial Empire
which barbarians are not allowed to visit.
: On the day before we entered upon the Chinese Sea,
it was exceedingly dark and gloomy, but we had no
sooner passed the islands above mentioned, than the
clouds disappeared, the sun arose in indescribable splen-
dor, a fresh and invigorating breeze sprang up from the
north, and we were wafted most delightiully over the
sea of China, at the rate of nine miles an hour, towards
our destination. Early in the morning we discovered
a vessel fifteen miles astern of us, and at evening she
passed us about three miles to the leeward, and proved
to be the American ship Montreal, which left the harbor
of Honolulu four hours before us. She formerly be-
longed to a line of London packets, is reputed a fast
sailor, and should have beaten us at least six days to
China.
On the morning of the 17th, the water changed from
a deep blue to a light green, which indicated that we
were already on soundings, though two hundred and
sixty miles from port.
The Chinese Sea is regarded as the most dangerous
waters to navigate in this part of the world, owin^ to
the numerous shoals and currents, and to the winds
VOYAGE TO CHINA
261
called " ty phones," which prevail in this region. The
name rendered into English is literally great-winds, ty,
signifying great, and pnong, wind. They often come
without giving any warning of their approach, and woe
to the luckless vessel on which their fury is poured.
Sails, spars, and rigging fly in fragments before the
blast, and happy is tnat ship whose dismasted hull still
floats upon tne surface of the agitated deep after the
storm has expended its violence. Many vessels, with
their entire crews, have foundered in these storms, and
not a vestige of them have ever been seen afterwards.
On the morning of the 18th, we passed the rock called
" Pedro Branco, and at sunrise Chinese fishing boats
appeared on every side, and the rough outlines of the
coast of China presented themselves before us. Pre-
sently two boats bearing the pilot's flag, approached us,
and an amusing strife took place betwixt them to see
which should get on board of us first. They both came
along side at once, and the two pilots sprung on to the
side of our ship at the same time ; but one of them in
his effort to jump, stumbled, and fell into the sea. We
were passing through the water with great rapidity, and
the unlucky pilot, struggling in the water for life, and
frightened so that his eyes stood out of his head like
those of a craw fish, shot astern of us with the velocity
of an arrow. But, accustomed to such adventures, his
comrades in the boat immediately cast off a couple of
long Bambo sticks, which the unfortunate man seized,
and with the assistance of them kept himself above the
water. A few hours afterwards he was picked up by a
small boat which was sent out for his relief.
On approaching the coast, fishing and other boats are
seen in every direction, even far out of sight of land,
and one is impressed with the idea of the vast popula-
tion of the Chinese Empire, long before he mingles with
the countless throngs on " terra firma,^'' As the land,
with the light of morning, burst upon our view, there
was disclosed a succession of barren mountains, exceed-
ingly irregular in their outlines, and with the numerous
islands of rocks ; and the bays and gulfs which abound
f.
262
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
T-t
1
I (
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!!?•
i I
along the shore, present the most formidable barriers to
the vast interior. The striking dissimilarity of this coast
to all others, as well as the treacherous and piratical
character of the inhabitants, may explain in part the
reason why maritime nations have ueen so tardy in
gaining access among the Chinese. But this coast is
fetting now to be well understood. Since the war with
Ingland, two vessels have been constantly employed in
surveying its numerous islands, intricate channels, and
deep indentations.
At ten o'clock, a. m., of the 18th of November, we
rounded the west point of the island of Hong Kong,
and came to anchor in the beautiful bay, which reflects,
as from a liquid mirror, the flourishing city cf Victoria.
We were immediately invited on shore by the Rev. S.
R. Brown, who is in the employment of the Morrison
Education Society, as conductor of a school for the
benefit of Chinese boys, and to whom we had letters of
introduction, and with whom we spent an agreeable
week. On the following Sabbath evening I was invited
to preach in a chapel recently built, and known as the
^^Union Chapel," though it is principally under the control
of the missionaries of the London Missionary Society.
The congregation consisted of English residents, soldiers,
Americans, and native Chinese, ami numbered about one
hundred persons.
We arrived at Hong Kong just in time to witness the
arrival and subsequent public entertainments of the cel-
ebrated Chinese statesman, Keying, who is the governor
general of the province of Canton, and imperial com-
missioner to transact the business of the government
relating to the intercourse of China with other nations.
His visit had been long expected, and from the great
popularity of the statesman, both in China and amon^
the British, it was contemplated with a great degree of
interest. Splendid preparations had beer; Ane for his
reception, and to render his visit not only interesting to
himself, but conducive to the extension of British influ-
ence in China.
He was conducted from Whampo to Hong Kong in a
■An.
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
British steamboat, and recollecting the immense destruc-
tion of Chinese occasioned by a similar vessel in the late
war, he closely examined every part of her on his pas-
sage down ; and while passing around among the men,
he scattered his gold and silver with the most princely
liberality. The boat arrived before the town of Victo-
ria on Thursday evening, and his excellency received a
salute from the ^uns of the batteries and from the ships
of war in the harbor, which was returned after the
Chinese custom. His excellency landed amidst the
roaring of cannon and the strains of martial music, and
was conveyed in a splendid palanquin to the house
which had been fitted up with great care, for his recep-
tion ; and where, during the remainder of the evening,
all the public functionaries and grandees of Hong Kong
paid their respects to their illustrious visitor.
On Friday evening Keying and his suite. Lord Coch-
ran, Lord Seymour, with all the grandees of the place,
dined at the house of Sir John Francis Davies, the
governor of Hong Kong, and from the representations
of an eye witness, the evening wound up with a bac-
chanalian revel. Towards the close of the following
day, a review of the British troops on the island, was to
take place, and Keying was to appear in public, and
give an opportunity for those to see him who were not
allowed to mingle in the gay saloons of lords, knights,
and barons.
They were not disappointed in their expectations ; for
as the high mountains of Hong Kong began to cast a
cooling shade upon the city of Victoria, Keying and his
suite were carried in sedan chairs to the house of Sir
John Francis Davies, and soon after both their excellen-
cies, with their attendants, accompanied by the Rev.
Charles GutslafT, as Chinese interpreter, repaired to a
high bank beside the road, and located themselves upon
it for the purpose of reviewing the troops as they were
marched before them. We had the cood fortune to
place ourselves within a few feet of the oank, where we
had a fine view of this titled group, as also of the sol-
diers. The latter consistsd of two regiments, one of
264
VOYAOB TO CHINA.
Irish, and one of Sepoys, from India, numbering about
two thousand in all. They were marched after two
splendid bands of music, and from the strict discipline
manifest in their manceuvres, as well as from the won
derful display of gunnery with which the review ter
minated, doubtless Keying was impressed with a sense
of the superiority of the tactics of British soldiers ovei
those of his imperial master.
At seven o'clock in the evening their excellencies,
with their suites, the officers of the army, and others
entitled to the distinguished privilege, repaired on board
the line of battle ship Agincourt, to dine with the admi-
ral. Lord Seymour. Dmner, as usual among the Eng-
lish on such occasions, was followed with music and
dancing, but it was said that an English lady refused to
dance with Keying, which so chagrined his excellency
that it was thought proper to break up the party at an
early hour.
On the Sabbath, Gov. Davies, Keying, and their suite,
accompanied by the Rev. Charles Gutslaff, performed
on a small English steamboat, a voyage ot pleasure
around the island of Hong Kong. Perhaps Gov. Davies
was influenced thus to desecrate the Holy Sabbath by
the examples set him by some of the lords and dukes of
England, who have been in the habit of usin^ the Lord's
day for their public dinners; but, be this as it may, such
a course of conduct by the authorities of a colony pro-
fessedly Christian, in such a country as China, is not only
a public outrage upon Christianity itself, but is directly
calculated to destroy the good effects of years of mis-
sionary labor. While the servants of God in China are
endeavoring to impress the people with a sense of the
sacredness of the Holy Sabbath, the public authorities,
sanctioned by the presence of Rev. Charles Gutslaff, by
thus openly desecrating the day, do much to nullify all
that missionaries can possibly do. If the above were
a solitary instance of a violation of the day in this public
manner, the evil influence resulting from it,' would per-
haps soon die away. But the Sabbath is scarcely known
in Hong Kong, judging from external appearances. All
VOYAGE TO CHINA*
d66
ranks, from the governor downwards, habitually profane
the holy day; while the public worki, such as the erei>
tion of government buildnigs and fortifications, are pros-
ecuted on the Sabbath the same as on other days. Thii
is a source of great grief to the missionaries in this part
of China, and may be regarded as one of the greatest
obstacles in the way of success, with which every mis-
sionary to this country must come in contact. True,
English service, in a most sickly manner, IS performed
twice on the Sabbath, but there are but few who attend
regularly, while the vast majority of English and other
foreigners at Hong Kong, use the Lord^ day as a day
of business or recreation.
December 10th. Dined at eight o'clock in the evening
with the Rev. Charles Gutslanf who is now a resident
of Hong Kone, having recently received an appointment
from the Colonial Government as Chinese Secretary.
Perhaps there are few men in the world who have
excited more interest in a missionary point of view, than
this reverend gentleman. He is a Prussian by birth, is
about fifty-five years of age, and has been in China thirty .
years, most of which have been employed in missionary
labors in various parts of the empire. Though he has
lost much of his influence as a Christian minister, both
among the natives and foreigners, yet he is laboring to
sustain himself as a missionary in the country, as well
as a civilian.
He informed me that twenty-five native preachers
who belonged to a society which he had organized for
the propogation of the gospel in China, came to him for
counsel and direction in their work; and that they were
circulating through every part of the Chinese ifimpire,
and were preaching from ten to fifteen sermons each per
day. After the death of John Morrison, Jr., who filled
the office of Chinese Secretary for a few years, Gutslaff,
from his thorough knowledge of the different dialects of
the Chinese language, was appointed to this lu:ralive
station. His salary is £1500 sterling per annum, con-
siderably more than that of the Vice President of the
United States, while the salary of the Governor of the
*•'
266
VOYAOfi TO CHINA.
f'\ I
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little )>etty colony of Hon^ Kong, amounts to thrde
times as much as that of the President of our Union.
Gutslaff appearl to have made it one object of his resi-
dence in dhina, to accumulate wealth, and it is said that
his efforts in this respect, have been successful. Report
affirms that he has £15,000 deposited in the bank of
Australia which he has accumulated while employed as
a missionary, and probably some of the prejudice exis-
ting against him, arises from this circumstance, but it
would be doing him great injustice not to admit that his
unwearied labors for the benefit of China have been
productive of good. In addition to his other labors he
nas recently published a Chinese Dictionary, which, with
those previously published, will afford missionaries great
facilities for the acquisition of the language. To form a
correct estimate of this original character doubtless
requires a most intimate acquaintance, while a short
interview with him cannot fail to leave the impression
upon the mind of the stranger, that the most singular
compound of the gentleman and the clown, the divine
and the civilian, the scholar and the novice, the sage and
the humorist, the christian and the worldling, enters into,
and forms the character of the Rev. Charles Gutslaff.
The island of Hong Kong, as the fruits of an unjust
war, was ceded by China to Great Britain at the close
of the late unhappy contest, and now constitutes a part
of that empire upon which it has become the boast of
her statesmen that the sun never sets. It is very irre-
gular in its outlines, both as it regards its coast and
Its surface. It is not far from eight miles long, and
varying in its width from one to tour miles. On ap-
proachmff it in a vessel, it presents a very forbidding
aspect. It rises abruptly from the water, and its most
elevated points are about three thousand feet above the
level of the sea. Originally it was one huge mountain
of granite, but for many ages this primitive rock has
been decomposing, and the present soil of the island
consists of decayed granite, with a small portion of
decomposed vegetable matter. There are several val-
lies in the island through which meander small brooks
kr
VOYAGR TO CHINA.
267
and being green and fertile, ^ive the name to the island;
Hong Kong signifying an island of green and fertile
vallies.
The city of Victoria, embracing both the Chinese and
English portions, stretches along the eastern side of the
island nearly three miles. Its greatest depth is not more
than one-fourth of a mile, and the abruptness of the
mountains behind the city, will not admit of extending
the buildings far in that direction. Though it is but
about five years since the city was commenced, yet it has
grown up so rapidly, and contains so many magnificent
buildings, that one of the learned Chinese Mandarins
who accompanied Keying, on leaving the place, com-
posed a poem in honor of the city, in which he entitled
it "the city of splendid palaces." The city, however,
is in a very unfinished state, and the sound of the ham-
mer and trowel is heard in every part of it during seven
days in a week, and it is therefore rapidly improving;
and doubtless, from its favorable location, and by the
assistance of British wealth and influence, it is destined
to become a place of great commercial importance.
The population of Hong Kong amounts to about thirty
thousand persons, most of whom are Chinese. There
are about four hundred English residents on the island,
besides the soldiers, and not more than ten Americans.
These, with the regiment of Irish soldiers already re-
ferred to, constitute all the white people embraced in
this colony. The Chinese population, numbering more
than twenty-five thousand, are exceedingly industrious
in their habits, and accomplish a great share of the re-
tailing business of the city. In consequence of the
unhealthiness of the climate the English residents have
fixed themselves here but temporarily, and design, after
having amassed a fortune, to return to old England to
enjoy the fruits of their labors. Many of them, how-
ever, fall victims to the malignant fevers which here
prevail, and their dreams of worldly aggrandizement
vanish with their lives.
The schools of Hong Kong require to \^ noticed.
Here are no public schools for the benefit of white
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368
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
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children, consequently they are growing up, as in other
new colonies, in comparative ignorance. The school
which is supported by the Morrison Education Society
is one of great importance to the interests of China, as
the influence it exerts at present, and the objects it con-
templates, sufficiently prove. The circumstances which
led to the formation ot the Morrison Education Society,
was the death of the Rev. Robert Morrison, D. D., who,
in connection with his unwearied labors as a missionary,
officiated many years as translator in the service of
the Hon. East India Company in China. The friends of
this great and good man in China, having been deeply
interested in the success of his labors while living, and
wishing to cherish a grateful remembrance of him when
dead, resolved to erect a monument worthy to perpetu-
ate his memory, and calculated to assist in carrying
forward that work, in the promotion of which he had
fallen a sacrifice. Dr. Morrison died on the 2d of Au-
gust, 1834, and on the 9th of November, 1836, the soci-
ety which took his name, was organized at Canton,
having a fund of six thousand dollars.
The objects of the society, as expressed in its consti-
tution, are, " to improve and promote education in China,
by schools and other means, Chinese youth were to
be taught to read and write the English language, in
connection with their own; and by these means the
society designed "to brin^ within their reach all the
instruction requisite for their becoming wise, industrious,
sober and virtuous members of society, fitted in their
respective stations in life, to discharge well the duties
which they owe to themselves, their kindred, and their
God.' ' The trustees of the society designed to employ
two teachers, one from England, and one from the Uni-
ted States, and made application accordingly. From
England they received no reply, but a favorable one
from the States, and on the 23d of February, 1839, Rev.
Mr. and Mrs. Brown, from Massachusetts, arrived in
China, but the war immediately breaking out, rendered
it necessary for them to take up their residence at
Macao. Here, by the advice of the trustees, Mr. Brown
ii ii
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VOYAGE TO CHINA.
260
commenced operations, but the Chinese were so slow in
appreciating the effort, that in September, 1841, the
school numoered but thirteen scholars.
Catholic influence, and Chinese exclusiveness, rendered
Macao almost as undesirable a location for the school, as
Canton; and as Hong Kong had fallen into the hands of
the British, application was made to Sir Henry Pottincer,
her British Majesty's plenipotentiary, for the privilege
of locating the school on that island.
This application resulted in the appropriation of a hill
which overlooks the city of Victoria, at, the location for
the buildings, and which from that time has been known
as " Morrison Hill." Extensive buildings were immedi-
ately erected, the number of the pupils increased, an
assistant teacher employed, and from that time the
school has been progressmg in every way correspondent
to the expectations of its warmest friends. At present
the school numbers thirty students, all boys, and many
of them have made great improvement. A circum-
stance which was related to me by Mr. Brown, shows
in what light the Chinese first viewed the school, and
the influence it is beginning to exert. An aged Chinese,
who had finally consented to send three of his boys to
the school, observed one day to Mr. Brown, " we could
not at first understand why a foreigner should wish to
feed and instruct our children for nothing. We thouj^ht
there must be some sinister motive at the bottom of^it.
Perhaps it was to entice them away from their parents
and country, and transport them to some foreign land.
At all events, it was a mystery. But I understand it
now. I have had my three sons in your school steadily
since they entered it, and no harm has happened to them.
The oldest has been qualified for the public service as
interpreter. The other two have learned nothing bad.
The religion you have taught them, and of which I was
so much afraid, has made them better. I myself believe
its truth, though the customs of my country forbid my
embracing it. I have no longer any fears— you labor for
other's good, not your own.'°
PrejparatioDS Kave recently been made for the en-
■
370
VOVACiE to CHINA.
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iargement of the school ; as iiany more had applied for
admission during the last year, than could poanibly be
accommodated. A fortunate appropriation of fourteen
thousand dollars to the institution, with a receipt sub-
scription of several thousand dollars more, will enable
the trustees suitably to enlarge it, and to place it upon a
firm basis.
The above appropriation was made by th^ persons
who had the settlement of the estate of the lamented J.
R. Morrison, son of the late Dr. Robert Morrison.
That gentleman, while living, was deeply interested
in the welfare of the school, and it was thought proper,
by those upon whom it devolved to dispose of his pro-
perty, to associate his name with that of his father, by
Debtowing fourteen thousand dollars of his estate upon
the institution as a permanent fund, and thus to raise a
noble monument to perpetuate the memory of both of
these benefactors of the Chinese nation.
The conductor of this school, the Rev. S. R. Brown,
is every way entitled to the confidence of the community
which employs him, and of the Chinese, for whose ben-
efit he is devoting his life. His interests are blended
with those of this institution, and his whole soul is en-
listed to promote its advancement. And, in the rapid
improvement of the students in the arts and sciences, in
the correctness of their moral deportment, and in the
satisfactory evidence which some of them give of genu-
ine conversion and a qualification for future usefulness,
he already witnesses the happy results of his labors.
As this institution was established upon a broad basis, and
is conducted according to the most enlarged views of
benevolence, its supporters and directors are among the
benefactors of mankind.
There are two churches in Hong Kong, which have
been erected for the accommodation of foreigners ; one
of which is the " Union Chapel," and the other is an
ffpiscopalian chjiixch. In thp former, the^ q^s^pnaries
offiQiat^, alt^Uftt^y, smd th^ latter i^ supplied by the
chaplains from the army aiid navy. Some of these
Iftt^ ^iWj^r ^f^r m^^m §^tur4%y ey^flifjg in card
i! i
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
211
which have
playing and wine drinking, will enter the sacred desk on
Sunday, and preach, not as messengers of God, but as
"one that pfayeth skillfully on an instrument" — and
their hearers, as destitute of religion as themselves, will
flatter their vanity by informing them that they have
preached an admirable sermon. A few of these chaplains,
however, i^r^ evangelical men, and when they preach,
they hesitate not "to decalre the whole counsel of God."
It fell to the lot of one of these to preach on a Sabbath
when a number of the great men of the island were
present ; and knowing the viciousness of their charac-
ters, like a man of God he enforced upon them th«j
important truth, thai, "without holiness, no man shall
the Lord." At the close of his sermon he was
see
informed by the general of the army that his " preach-
ing was not acceptable ; that they came to church to b^,
comforted, not to be condemned to hell."
After the island of Hong Kong had been wrested
from the Chinese by the English, the missionaries in
this part of China, generally collected at this place.
Formerly, Macao was the only place where foreigners
with their families could reside. But as Macao was
under papal influence, and Canton was yet inaccessible,
Hong Kone was judged to be the most proper place for
the establisnment of the missions. Accordingly, mis-
sionaries of the London Missionary Society, and also of
the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign
Missions, and the Baptist Foreign Board, fixed their
residence^ in this place. They built their dwelling
houses, churches, and school-houses for the Chinese,
with the design of constituting this place *he center of
their operations. i
Some of these buildings were quite expensive, espe-
cially the mission house of the American Board.
At the conclusion of the war, Hong Hong becoming
English ground, and Canton accessible to missionaries
and their families, all the American missionaries resolved
at once to abandon the former, and establish themselves
in the l%ttipr p^i^^» Tois subjegt^d tbei^a tp ^ gr^t p^«
n
272
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
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cuniary loss in the buildings and other property, which
thoy were obliged to sacrihce at Hong Kong. But thi;v
considered it to bo their duty to enter the opening which
British cannon had made into China, believing tnat tho
advantages, in a missionary point of view, of a location
in Canton, would more than counterbalance aM the pecu-
niary losses to which such a course would subject thein.
Consequently, Dr. Bridgeman, Dr. Parker, and Dr.
Ball, of the A. B. C. F. M., and Dr. Dcvan, of the
Baptist Board, have retired from Hong Kong, and iiuvj;
taken up their residence in the Provincial city. Whether
they have acted wisely, remains to be decided ; but bo
this as it may, the three or four Chinese houses of wor-
ship which they erected at Hong Kong, are nearly
deserted, and the fruits of their labors are rapidly
disappearing.
Dr. Legg and Mr. Gallaspio, of the London Mission-
ary Society, are establishing themsolvos perinaneutiy in
Hong Kong. Dr. Legg, however, is now on a visit to
England, but designs to return and resume his labors in
this p'ace. They have recently erected a large and
splendid mission "house, which appears from a distan(!e
more like the palace of a prince, than the house of the
humble missionary. They have here collected a school
of bovs, whom they are endeavoring to instruct, ami,
though the fruits of their labors are tardy in exhibiting
themselves, yet, by various means, such as the printing
of books in Chinese, and preaching by their Chinese
assistants, they are casting their bread upon the waters,
and are expecting to be able to gather it after fnani/
days.
It is difficult to tell what amount of good has been
accomplished by missionary labor in Hong Kong, doubt-
less much more than the enemies of missions are willing
to admit. But it is evident the work at this point, as well
as in some other portions of the mission field, has been
freatly injured by the publication of reports furnished
y missionariea of too naming a character. Missionary
reports always return to the plaoss they are designed to
V J
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
273
reprefent, and if they are not strictly true, they always
create prejudice against the cause they are designed to
promote.
The climate of Hong Kong is very unsalubrious,
particularly during the prevalence oi the south-west
monsoons.
The monsoons are winds which blow one-half of the
year from the south-west, and the other half from the
north-cast. The north-east monsoon prevails during our
fall and winter months, and while it continues, the
island is considered a comparatively healthy location ,
but after the winds set in from the south-west, the
atmosphere becomes exceedingly oppressive. The heat
of the sun becomes almost unendurable, and both natives
and foreigners enter into evenr possilile precaution to
guard Ugainst the deleterious efiects of the sun's burning
rays.
Notwithstanding the extreme care exercised by fo-
reigners to preserve health, this climate proves fatal to
many of them. It is peculiarly debilitating to the female
constitution, and a nunber of the wives of missionaries,
have here fallen as martyrs in their work. The Hong
Kong fever has become notorious wherever the name
of the place is known ; and while all who come to this
country are more or less exposed to this most malignant
of all fevers, perhaps the soldiers quartered here are the
greatest sufierers. Such is the astonishing mortality
that reigns among them, that it is necessary to reinforce
them annually with a fresh regiment from homo, in
order to keep ready for effective service one thousand
men. Indeed, in view of the unhealthiness of its climate,
Hong Kong is no desirable place of residence for
foreigners, and there are but two motives sutFiciently
powerful to induce either Europeans or Americans to
continue here a great length a time : These are the
lovo of money and the love of souls.
Having heard much concerning the soldiers' burying
ground, on the 14th of December, curiosity led us to
take a walk over this depository of the dead. About
one mile and a half from the town, the old barracks
12
274
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
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were situated, where the soldiers were quartered imme-
diately after the conclusion of the China war, and
during the unhealthy part of the season.
But a few score of them had fallen before the prowess
of their Chinese enemies, but while quietly lying in their
barracks, and recounting the victories they had won,
they were attacked by an enemy before v horn kings turn
pale, and the valor of the bravest soldier falters.
The Hong Kong fever brought death into the war-
riors' camp, and during the short pjriod of six weeks,
more than five hundred men were laid in the dust by
this fearful scourge. ~ *
Walking in company with our friend Rev. Rowland
Reese, we came to the ground where these half a thou-
sand, together with several hundred, who had died
previously, were buried, and the first thing that attracted
our attention was the coffin pf a small child, which lay
partly embedded in the ground, its lid broken off, and
disclosing some of the bones of the infant which the
hungry dogs of the Chinese, in robbing the coffin, had
allowed to remain. In viewing this, we recollected that
British soldiers were sometimes allowed to take their
wives and children with them, and they are consequently
liable to share the fate of the soldier. Going a little
farther, we found ourselves surrounded with coffins on
every side, some of them partly covered, others entirely
above ground, and many of them robbed of their con-
tents by hungry dogs and swine, while ghastly skulls
and other bones lay bleaching far and near. Our hearts
sickened while we looked around upon this modern Gol-
gotha, and we fancied we heard from the numerous
skeletons which whitened the ground around us, the
bitterest imprecations uttered against that cruel war
system, which was relentless in its claims upon them
while living, and in death cast them beyond the common
sympathies of humanity.
We left this scene of desolation, indulging the reflec-
tion that those great ones of the earth, who, from
motives of ambition and cupidity, entail no much misery
upon their fellow men as results from the practice of
VOYAGE TO CUINA.
275
war, will have a fearful account to render at the bar of
God. Surely, thought we, this is the glory which mul-
titudes who enter the field of strife, secure to themselves;
they die liVd the brute, and are denied the rights of
sepulture, but an eternal weight of glory awaits every
christian warrior.
During our stay at Hong Kong we became acquainted
with several Wesleyan Methodists from England. Some
of them are soldiers in the army, and when there has
been a sufficient number of them, they have formed
themselves into classes, and as far as their circumstances
would permit, they have in other respects enjoyed the
institutions of Methodism. The Rev. Rowland Reese,
who resides at Hong Kong, and has been for several
years in the employ of the government, as a civil engi-
neer, is a local preacher from England, and takes a very
decided stand in the place where he lives in favor of
that form of Christianity called Methodism, which he
considers to be not only the purest in the world, but
the most efficient in its " modus operandi"
Under this conviction, he has frequently addressed the
British Conference on the subject of sending missionaries
to China, proposing to give towards the support of one,
one hundred dollars per year, though his income is quite
limited. He has at length gained an assurance from
the president of the conference, that measures have
been taken to grant his request, and he is now looking
for the arrival of the missionaries. He appears to be
an excellent brother, and is certainly entitled to the
blessing of those who entertain strangers.
Our continuance at Hong Kong was four weeks, three
of which we spent at the house of Mr. Reese. Though
the expense of living at Hong Kong is great, yet tiiis
truly benevolent man furnished us with all the comforts
his house afforded, without money and without price.
On the 15th of December we took leave of our newly
formed acquaintance at Hong Kong, and taking what
the Chinese call a " fast boat," proceeded through a
perfect labyrinth of islands, across the mouth of Pearl
river to the city of Macao, the distance of thirty miles.
276
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
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It was late in a very dark evening when we arrived in
the inner harbor, and as our baggage must all pass
through the Custom House on landm^, we must neces-
sarily leave it in the care of the Chmese on the boat,
during the night, as there were no conveniences for our
continuing on board. This arranged, we committed
ourselves to the guidance of the captain of the boat,
having given him the name of the individual whom we
wished to find, and by the way of a narrow avenue, on
each side of which the towering walls of the buildings
were rendered scarcely visible by the glimmerings of a
Chinese lantern, we entered the densely populated city
of M^cao. Winding along the crooked lanes, and tra-
veling as fast as we could for thirty minutes or more,
we at length entered a gloomy mansion, situated near
the centre of the city, where our guide told us our friend
lived.
Here we were cordially welcomed by the Rev. Dr.
Happer, a missionary of the Presbyterian Board, who
had kindly invited us to make his house our home while
we desired to remain in the city.
Dr. Happer has been in China but little more than one
year, and consequently has not made a great impression.
He has established a school of twenty-five Chinese boys,
and is teaching them the English language, while a
person employed for that propose is instructing him in
the Chinese. He feels encouraged to prosecute his
work, though the prospect of accomplishing much, is
dark before him.
Macao is a Portuguese town, containing forty thou-
sand inhabitants, thirty-five thousand of whom are Chi-
nese, and five thousand Portuguese. Of the latter there
are but a few hundred nelive Portuguese, they being
mostly of the half-caste population. The Portuguese
pay an annual tribute to China for the privilege of
remaining here, and indeed Macao is under the control
of the Chinese, though for purposes of mutual advantage,
the Portuguese have been allowed to continue in posses-
sion.
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The Portuguese first established themselves here more ■ Qf
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
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ves here more
than three hundred years ago, and durine the first hun-
dred years, Popish missionaries from this point, had
penetrated into every part of the Chinese Empire, even
into the ver^ palace of the Emperor himself. But, inter-
meddling with the affairs of government, the priests were
banished from Pekin. This checked the prosperity of
the Papists, and though ui^wearied efforts have been
made ever since that time to establish Popery perma-
nently in the Empire, yet they have resulted in giving it
but a doubtful footing.
Macao, however, being under the domination of
Portugal, is papistical in its character, and contains
several splendid cathedrals and convents; and the priests,
from the snowy-headed " padre " down to the boy of
ten years, may be seen perambulating the streets in
every part of the city, almost without number. Here
Catholicism exists in its grandeur and magnificence, as
well as in its disgusting forms and nameless mummeries.
But it may be remarked, in favor of the Catholics of
Macao, that they are more tolerant in their principles
and practice than any other Catholics in the world.
During the celebration of high mass on Christmas eve,
we took the opportunity of visiting three of the most
splendid churches in the city, and in neither of them
were we obliged to kneel, even at the elevation pf the
Sacred Host.
During the short but sanguinary contest betwixt the
English and Chinese, Macao, as a matter of course,
remained neutral; and as a consequence of the war, and
during the short period of six years, she made more
rapid improvements than ever before : but when the
articles of peace were signed under her walls, the death
blow was given to her prosperity.
English capital and English influence have already
placed her rival, Hong Kong, or Victoria, far above
her in point of wealth and commercial importance,
though it is* but five years since the latter sprang into
being ; whereas Macao boasts of an antiquity of more
than three hundred years. The houses of some parts
of Macao are built after the European style, though the
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streets are very narrow and dirty, while in some places,
as you pass along, the buildings present the appearance
of dismal prisons. Other parts of the city are peculiarly
Chinese, and these are by far the most extensive, and
give one a very correct idea of the large cities of the
Chinese Empire.
There are a number of places of interest in and about
the city of Macao, which, from the satisfaction a visit to
them is calculated to afford, are well worthy the atten-
tion of travelers. The first in order is that of the Grand
Prior.
The portion of the city around the Grand Prior, on
landing from the outer harbor, is the most interesting
part or the Portuguese division of the town. It is built
round the borders of the beautiful bay which constitutes
the harbor in the form of a semi-circle, and the Prior
forms an elegant promenade, not only for all the fashion
and elite of the town, but for all such as desire to enjoy
the invigorating breeze which comes in from the bosom
of the Chinese Sea. Here may be seen almost every
day, Portuguese, Englislimen, Frenchmen, Spaniards,
Americans, Germans, Chinese, Indians, Parsees, Hawai-
ians, &c., mingling in one common troop alon^ this
beautiful Prior, and all apparently delighted witn the
surrounding scenery.
Passing from the Prior to the north, partly through
the town, you come to a second place of interest, which
is the Bazaar, or market, of the city. This is situated
in the Chinese portion of the town, and contains all
kinds of fruits, vegetables, and provisions peculiar to the
country. Among the fruits, oranges and bannanas are
the most prominent kinds; the former being more abun-
dant than apples in New York, and four large fresh
oranges can be procured for one cent. One is astonished
in passing through the Bazaar to see the immense variety
of meats, fish and fowl, with which It abounds. In
addition to the common kinds, such as beef, pigs, mutton,
capons, geese and ducks, may be ^ound an astonishing
variety, among which dogs, cats, rats and frogs, are
the most prominent. These may be had either alive,
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
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dressed, or cooked, so t^at the most fastidious cori easily
be accommodated.
The Chinese Heathen Temple, situated within the
precincts, and at the east end of the city, is another object
of curipsity to all strangers who visit this part of Chma.
This temple was principally hewn out of tne solid rock,
and its appearance reminds one of the Bible accounts
of the idolatrous practices of the nations of antiquity;
several majestic banyan trees extending over it their huge
branches, cast a sombre shade upon its different depart-
ments, while its walls of blackened granite, and the
hideous images which appear on every hand, as the
gloomy nature of the worship there paid to heathen
gods, aie calculated to make impressions upon the mind
of the beholder at once solemn and affecting. Here we
witnessed, for the first time, the priests of Budha in hum-
ble prostration before their idols, and while witnessing
their devotions, our fervent ejaculations were ascending
to heaven that the long night of death which has reigned
over them, unbroken, may soon pass away, and the de-
votees of this cruel system of idolatry, become the
true worshipers of the living God.
There are several beautiful gardens within the walls
of the city, among which the Casser Garden, at the
western end of the city, is the most popular as a place
of resort
This is celebrated on account of the beauty of its
shaded walks, the variety of the plants and shrubbery
by which it is adorned, the enchanting nature of its
scenery, but principally from its containing within its
enclosure the celebrated grotto known by the name of
Camoen's Cave.
Thip cave procured its cognomen from the following
circumstance : Camoen was appointed hy the crown of
Portugal to an important office in the colony of Macao,
and while residing in this place, he spent a great share
of his time in the solitude of this cave. It was here
that this most celebrated of all Portuguese poets com-
posed his " Lusiad," a poem which has rendered lis
name immortal. The cave is interesting as a natural
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curiosity^ out it has been materially injured by an at-
tempt to adorn and beautify it by artificial works. It
contains a bust of the celebrated man who has given it
a name that it will probably bear to the end of time. In
connection with this it might be proper to observe that
after he left Macao, Camoen and nis manuscript poems
were both singularly and providentially preserved from
unmerited oblivion. The vessel in which he sailed from
Macao, was wrecked in the Chinese Sea ; fortunately,
however, not a great distance from the shore. When it
appeared evident that the vessel was lost, and there
being no other means of saving himself, forgetting every
thin^ else as comparatively worthless, he seized his man-
uscript in one hand, and cast himself into the sea.
Presently, the few who had gained the shore before
him, discovered Camoen struggling in the briny element,
and bearing in one hand above tne surface of the agi-
tated waters, the poem that was destined to give him an
earthly immortality. At length a fortunate wave came
to his assistance, and he was borne in triumph to the
shore, happy that, with the loss of his wealth^he had
saved what he esteemed of infinitely more value, the
instrument which was destined to attach to his memory
an enviable and enduring fame.
There are also a number of eminences in and about
the place, which overlook the entire town and harbor,
and which are very strongly fortified. Some of the
guns by which the battlements are mounted, are of
astonishing calibre, and bear date as ancient as 1625.
From the hill on which the " Central Fort " is built,
the view of the city, harbor, roads, and the adjacent
islands, is sufficiently interesting to pay one for the labor
of climbing to its summit. From this spot was pointed
out to us the precise place where the English and Chi-
nese embassadors signed the preliminaries of peace at
the conclusion of the late war. On the ramparts of the
" Central Fort " I counted fifty of the engines of death
ready to pour ruin upon invading foes.
Having visited every thing of interest in and around
the city of Macao, we prepared to take our leave; de-
VOYAOB TO CHINA.
881
sirinff to spend as many days in Canton before embark-
ing Tor the United States, as we possibly could. We
had received a pressin^r invitation from Dr. Devan, a
missionary oi' the Baptist Board, resident in Canton, to
mak6 his house our home so long as we desired to re-
main . in the place. Accordingly, on Wednesday, the
7th of January, accompanied by Mrs. Hooper, one of
our fellow passengiers on the Leland, we embarked on a
" ftist boat,^* and with a fresh breeze proceeded up the
Canton river.
These ^* fast boats ** are always manned by Chinese,
and, though differing from any other water craft which
I have seen in any other part of the world, are quite
comfortable fdr the conveyance of passengers; and as
they are propelled 1)y oars when the wind does not serve,
thefy usually perform their passages with considerable
dispatch; passengers always ibrnishing themselves with
bed a^d board.
It v[fta near sundown when we left the Gi'and Prior,
and befote We had proceeded -fur, darkness had shut
from our view all surrounding objects, and repiosing on
the beds we had spread for our temporary use, we feli*
asleep, and the nisxt mominff found ourselves above the
Bogue,' or Boua Tigrfs, and gliding alon^ past the vri-
lages, paddy fields, and Pagodas, by which the banks of
the river are adorned. Before pas^ng Whampoa, we
stopped a few moments along dide the Leland, which
haa already commenced receivmg her cargo, and leaving
some of our baggage on board, we proceeded on through
the multitude of boats which thronged the river, and
which seemed to multiply in a ten-fold proportion as we
approximated the "Provincial City." It was nearly
dark when we arrived off the place of landing, and we
found the wharf so thronged with boats that it was im-
possible for us to approach it nearer than fifty yards.
We began to fear that we should be under the necessity
of spending the night on the boat ; no very comfortable
prospect in view of the piratical propensities of the
thousands by whicli we were surrounded. And as for
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state. However, I hastened to dispatch a short note to
Dr. Devan, by one of the officers of the boat, and for-
tunately the note found him. At eight o'clock he and
his most amiable wife gave us a hearty welcome at their
house, which is situated in one of the densest portions
of the suburbs of the great city of Canton, and on one
of the principal avenues leading to one of the gates of
the city proper. . - * •
Here we are then, brought by a succession of favora-
ble providences, and placed in the midst of the great
and wonderful city of Canton. Every thing surrounding
us is new and striking. The people, the costume, the
buildings, the streets, and every thing the eye beholds,
present an aspect totally different from any thing exist-
ing in any other portion of the world; and to give a
minute and intelligible description of the almost infinite
variety which this one citv presents to the view of the
' stranger, if it were possible to accomplish it, would re-
quire volumes, and cannot therefqre be expected in this
journal. It will be impossible even to carry out the
design of the traveler to Rome, who observed that he
should "give a description of the Rome which he saw;"
but it must suffice the reader to be introduced to a few
stibjects important to he understood, and interesting to
contemplate relating to the celebrated city of .Canton.
The Chinese write the name of their city, Kwang-
tung Sang Ching, " chief city of the province of Kwang-
tung," but in conversation they usually call it "Sang
Ching," the " Provincial City." Doubtless Canton is a
corruption of Kwangtung. This city is situated on the
north side of the Choo Keang, or Pearl river, and
about sixty miles from the great sea. It is in the twenty-
third degree of north latitude, and one hundred and
thirteenth east longitude from Greenwich.
The scenery around the city, though beautiful, and to
some extent diversified, presents nothing bold or roman-
tic. On the north and north-east sides, distant a few
miles, may be seen a range of hills or mountains, but
in every other direction the prospect is unobscured.
The rivers, channels and canals, are very numerous,
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
263
and are covered with a vast variety of boats, which are
continually passing to and from the neighboring towns
and villages. Southward the water covers nearly one-
fourth of the whole surface. Paddy fields and gardens
occupy the low lands, and occasionally may be seen little
hills and groves of trees rising here atid tnere, to diver-
sify the scene.
Canton is one of the most ancient cities in the world,
at least among those that have survived the revolutions
of time. We have pretty satisfactory evidence that it
existed several hundred years before the Christian era,
and, according to Chinese classics, one of the ancient
emperors, four thousand years ago, commanded one of
his ministers to repair to the southern country, and
govern the city, which was then called the Splendid
Capital, and the country surrounding it. If this be true,
a large city occupied the site of the present city of
Canton more than one hundred and fifty years before
the time of Abraham. ^ ^ *' " '
The city of Canton may be considered as divided into
two parts; the city proper, or that portion within the
walls, and the portion without the walls, or the suburbs,
which differs in its buildings, streets and extent of popu-
lation, very Jittle from that within the walls. That part
of the city enclosed by a wall is built nearly in the form
of a square, and is divided into two parts by a wall
running from east to west.
The northern, which is the largest part, is called the
old city, and the southern, the new city. The entire
circuit of the wall, including both divisions of the city
within, is variously estimated at from six to eight Eng-
lish miles. The walls rise nearly perpendicularly, and
vary in height from twenty-five to forty feet. They are
about twenty feet thick, and are composed of stone and
brick. A line of battlements is raised on the top of
the walls at intervals of a few feet around the whole
city. Leading through the outside wall are twelve gates
bearing diflferent names, some of which are very signifi-
cant : Wooseen Mun is " the gate of the five genii."
Yungtsing Mun is " the gate of eternal purity." This
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is the gate that leads to the place where criminals are
publicly decapitated. Yungan Mun is "the gate of
eternal rest." At each of the gates a few soldiers are
stationed to watch them by day, and close and guard
them by night.
The principal part of the suburbs are situated on the
south and west sides of the city. They are much less
extensive on the east than on the west; and on the north
thereare very few buildings, owing probably to the fact
that the city proper in that direction extends on to the
sides of a range of hills. This fact is poetically ex-
pressed by a Chinese writer, who observes that, on the
north *' the city rests on the brow of a hill."
It is said by good authority that there are from six
hundred to a thousand streets in the city of Canton.
Some of them are long, but most of them are short and
crooked. The broadest street in Canton is sixteen feet
wide, and there are hundreds not more than two feet.
These are all flagged with stones, mostly large granite
slabs.
It will be impossible to give any idea of the immense
motley crowd that daily throngs these narrow lanes.
The stout, half-naked, vociferating coolies, bearing every
description of merchandise on their backs, the noisy
sedan-bearers, together with the numerous travelers,
retailers, pedlars, barbers, tinkers, beggars, &c., presents
a scene before the spectator which puts all his powers
of description at defiance.
In the suburbs, near the south-west corner of the city,
are situated the foreign factories, of which there are
thirteen. They occupy a plot of ground extending
sixty rods from east to west, and forty from north to
south. The factories present a very firm and substantial
appearance, being but two stories high, and with the
exception of two narrow streets, forming one solid
block, each factory extending in length, the whole
breadth of the block. They are ownod by the Chinese
Hong merchants, and are occupied by the Dutch, Eng-
lish, Swedes, Americans, French and Danes. The
different factories may be distinguished by the flags of
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VOYAGE TO CHINA.
285
their respective nations, which constantly wave over
them.
In the afternoon of Friday, the 9th, Dr. Devan pro-
posed to conduct Mrs. H. and myself to those parts of
the city where it was safe for ladies to go, witn which
we readily acquiesced, as we desired to learn as much
as we possibly could concerning one of the great cities
of the Celestial Empire. It is but a short time since
foreign females have been allowed to approach nearer
to the city of Canton than Macao. The ladies are
indebted to the bloody gallantry of British soldiers, for
the privilege of walking the crowded streets of this
wonderful city. But even now, though the recent trea-
ties with other nations provide for. such a privilege, yet
a very large portion of the wealthy Chinese population
are violently opposed to foreigners penetrating far into
the city, especially to pass through the gates. Notwith-
standing this, according to arrangement, we set off on
our tour, first taking the hongs and the factories, where
the foreign merchants, and the missionaries of the A. B.
C. F. M. reside. After calling on some of the latter,
we continued on some half mile or more direct towards
one of the gates opening into that part of the city, yet
too sacred to be polluted by the feet of barbarians. As
we penetrated farther and farther into the city, beyond
the common walks of foreigners, it was astonishing to
us to observe the great curiosity that was excited among
the countless multitudes of Chinese through which we
passed, by the appearance of a foreign lady walking by
the side of a gentleman, in the thronged avenue, where
never a Chinese lady is allowed to go except as carried
by her servants, inclosed in her palanquin. We could
not stop for a single moment for fear of being so
thronged as not to be able to extricate ourselves, but
found it necessary to urge ourselves onward as fast as
we possibly could walk, while the excited mass poured
after us in wild confusion, and every now and then a
stalwart form rushing through the crowd, would thrust
himself before us for the purpose of getting one fair
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peep into the face of a foreign lady before she had
passed beyond their reach.
At length we came to what Dr. Devan told us was
the gate of the city proper, but we did not dare to enter
it, nor even to stop near it, such was the excitement
that prevailed wherever we appeared ; but casting a
passing look within the wallR, we continued walking for
an hour, until we had explored a number of the princi-
pal streets, and at almost every step we were saluted
by the name of " Fan-qui," (barbarian), and some times
Dr. Devan told us they would call us " evil spirits."
Before closing our perambulations, we visited the
Ningpoo Exchange, which is a famous building, so far
up in the city that strangers seldom visit it. It contains
almost countless apartments, and at every turn and
corner is placed a brazen idol before which the smoke of
burning incense is continually rising. In this Exchange
a vast amount of business is performed by commercial
men from all parts of China. Impressed with the
novelty of every thing we had witnessed, we returned
to Dr. Devan's in safety, and on Saturday, the 10th,
found ourselves prepared to visk the celebrated Temple
of Honan.
This most popular heathen temple in the Province of
Kwangtung, is situated on the Opposite side of the
Choo-keang river from Canton. Accompanied by our
friends, Dr. and Mrs. Devan, and a Chinese interpreter,
we engaged a boatman to row us across the river to this
splendid " Jos-house " of the Chinese. On entering the
temple and casting an eye around upon the objects
within, here, said I, idolatry must appear in its most
magnificent aspects. As we entered the gateway lead-
ing to the inner court, there were two colossal figures,
images of deified warriors, stationed, one on the right
and th,e other on the left, to guard the entrance to the
sacred palaces. Further on we came to the palace of
the "four great celestial kings," images of ancient
heroes. Still further on we were conducted along a
broad pathway to " the great powerful palace." Enter-
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287
>re she had
ing this we found ourselves in the presence of "the
three precious Budhas," three stately and magnificent
images representing the past, the present, and the future
Budha. The hall or palace where these images are
placed, is one hundred feet square, and contains nume-
rous other images of deified heroes, real or imaginary,
before which altars are erected and incense is kept
coni§tantly burning. The temple is vast, and the build-
ings embraced within the sacred inclosures are numerous,
and contain large numbers of Chinese gods. Some of
the idols are truly splendid specimens of the works of .*,
art, and as they are arranged in perfect order around
the walls of their respective and spacious halls, all of
bronze work, and measuring from eight to twenty feet
in height, they present a very imposing appearance. In
addition to these shining images,, there were several
rough stones pointed out to us as being numbered with
Chinese gods.
We were led by our conductor to the apartments
containing the saCred hogs and geese, and were assured
that it was an uncbmrnoti privilege for strangers to be
allowed to behold these squalling and grunting divinities.
In "the great and powerful palace," which contains
" the three precious Budhas," is hung a very large brass
bell, which is used by the priests at the hour of worship
to wake up the slumbering deities and to call their atten-
tion to the oblations of their devotees. One of the party,
taking hold of the huge tongue of the bell, drew it up
at one side and let it fall back against the other with
such force as to cause the whole temple to ring with its
vibrations. Some of the priests started back as with
fear, but so soon as the sound had died away they came
forward and reproached us for such a gross violation of
the sanctity of the place. In addition to this we were
guilty of another sacrilegious act in taking some of the
incense which was smoking before the idols, and bring-
ing it away with us ; much, however, to the diversion
of our Chinese attendants. As it was not the hour of
worship we did not witness the devotions of the priests,
but ascertained that at fiVe o'clock, p. m., every day,
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they celebrate their vespers in the palace of the precious
Budhas.
Parallel with each other on the right and left, are long
lines of apartments, one of which is a printing office,
and others are used as cells for priests, stalls for pif^s
and fowls, a retreat for " the king of hades," the chief
priest's room, a dining hall, a kitchen, dtc, and beyond
these is a spacious garden, at the extremity of Which
there is a mausoleuna wherein the ashes of burnt priests
once a year are deposited. Here also was pointed out
to us a furnace wherein the bodies of dead priests are
burned, and a little cell where the jars containing their
ashes are kept until the time for depositing them in the
mausoleum arrives.
We ascertained that there were connected with this
one heathen temple nearly two hundred priests ; and
judging from the immense expense of sustaining this
establishment, we could but come to the conclusion that
it costs China, more to support idolatry than all Christen-
dom pays to propagate the Gospel of the Son of God.
In connection with this it may be proper to subjoin a
brief history of the temple of Honan as giyen by the
Chinese, and which has been furnished in English by Dr.
Bridgeman of Canton : " It was originall^ a private
garden ; but afterwards, several hundred years ago, a
priest named Cheyue, built up an establishment which lie
called * the temple of ten thousand autumns,' and dedi-
cated it to Budha. It remained an obscure place, how-
ever, until about A. D. 1600, when a priest of eminent
devotion, with his pupil Ahtsze, together with a concur-
rence of extraordinary circumstances, raised it to its
f)resent magnificence. In the reign of Kanghe, and as
ate as a. d. 1700, the province of Canton was not fully
subjugated ; and a son-in-Jaw of the emperor was sent
hither to brine the whole country under his father's
sway. This he accomplished, received the title of
* Pingnan-wang, king of the subjugated South,' and
took up his head quarters in the temple of Honan. There
were then thirteen villages on the island, which he had
orders to exterminate for thei? opposition to the imperial
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forces. Just before carrying into effect this order, the
king, Pingnan, a blood-thirsty man, cast his eyes on
Ahtsze, a fat happy priest, and remarked that if he Hved
on vegetable diet he could not be so fat ; he must be a
hypocrite, and should be punished with death. He
drew his sword to execute with his own hand the sen-
tence ; but his arm suddenly stiffened, and he was
stopped from his purpose. That night a divine person
appeared to him in a dream, and assured him that Ahtsze
was a holy man, adding, *you must not unjustly kill
him.' Next morning the king presented himself before
Ahtsze, confessed his crime, and his arm was immediately
restored. He then did obeisance to the priest, and took
him for his tutor and guide ; and morning and evening
the king waited on the priest as his servant.
" The inhabitants of the thirteen villages now heard
of this miracle, and solicited the priest to intercede
in their behalf, that they might be rescued from the
sentence of extermination. The priest interceded, and
the king listened, answering thus : * I have received
an imperial order to exterminate these rebels, but since
you, my master, say they now submit, be it so ; I must,
however, send the troops round to the several villages,
before I can report to the emperor ; I will do this, and
then beg that they may be spared.' The king fulfilled
his promise, and the villages were saved. Their grati-
tude to the priest was unbounded ; and estates, and
incense, and money, were poured in upon him. The
king, also, persuaded his officers to make donations to
the temple, and it became affluent from that day.
" The temple had then no hall for celestial kings, and
at the outer gate there was a pool belonging to a rich
man who refused to sell it, although Ahtsze offered him
a large compensation. The king, conversing with the
priest one day, said, * this temple is deficient, for it has
no hall for the celestial kings.^ The priest replied, 'a
terrestrial king, please your highness, is the proper per-
son to rear a pavilion to the celestial kings.' The king
took the hint, and seized on the pool of the rich man,
who was now very glad to present it without compen-
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sation ; and he gave command, moreover, that a pavilion
should be completed in fifteen days ; but at the priest's
intercession, the workmen were allowed one month to
finish it ; and by laboring diligently night and day, they
accomplished it in that time."
Such is the history of the temple of Honan, which is
said to be the largest and best endowed establishment of
the kind in this part of China.
The reader can form some idea of the extent of this
temple when he is informed that its buildings and gar-
dens occupy from eight to ten English acres of ground.
We left this gloomy scene not without indulging the
hope that the time would come when a church of the
living God would supplant this temple of Budha, and the
great bell be used to call devout worshipers to the house
of prayer.
Sunday, 11th. Attended worship at the house of
Rev. Dr. Parker, in the morning, and heard a good ser-
mon by the Rev. Mr. Wood, of the Episcopal church.
This gentleman recently came from the United States as
a missionary to the Cninese, but, for reasons doubtless
satisfactory to himself, he returns home after a residence
of two months.
Dr. Parker, in addition to his missionary work, super-
intends the English service, which is conducted at his
own house every Sabbath day.
At two o'clock, p. M., attended Chinese service at
Dr. Parker's hospital, and heard a celebrated Chinese
preacher deliver a discourse in the native language.
This man has officiated as a kind of evangelist among
the Chinese for several years, and from his ardent zeal,
and continued sufferings in his work, has given evidence
of great sincerity. He has been violently persecuted by
his countrymen at different times, and once was under
the necessity of flying his country to save his life.
However, at the present time, he travels wherever he
pleases, and preaches without molestation.
At three o'clock, attended Chinese service with Dr.
Devan, in one of the densest p*: 'tions of the city. The
pla< e where the Doctor preaches he calls the " Dispensa-
Pi i'i
VOYAOK TO CHINA.
291
tory." It is about twelve feet square ; opens at one side to
the street, which is const;uitly thronged with passers by.
Occasionally one is attracted by the voice of the preacher,
and either stops in the street, or walks into the dispen-
satory, and listens a short time. Very few, however,
give their attention to a whole discourse. The utmost
confusion prevailed in front of the dispensatory, or
preaching-place, while, but from six to ten occupied the
benches during service, and these were mostly in the
pay of the missionary, as assistant preachers, teachers,
or servants. Though an ardent friend of the missionary
cause, I could but think that, if the labors bestowed here
were productive of much good, it would certainly be
against all human probability. Dr. Devan, and all other
missionaries here, are in the habit of distributing testa-
ments and other religious books, at the conclusion of
divine service.
The missionaries themselves, from the difficulty of
acquiring the language, preach but little, but are in the
habit of employing Chinese assistants. Doubtless some
credit is to be given for the genuineness of the conver-
sion, and the sincerity of some of these Chinese assistants;
but from the best information I have been able to obtain,
I am led to the conclusion that, in China, as well as in
some other heathen countries, in nine cases out of ten,
the converts, in identifying themselves with the mission-
are governed mainly by motives of self interest.
aries.
And, indeed, nearly all of them receive pay from the
different churches to which they belong. They are gene-
rally hired as preachers, teachers, tract distributors, or
servants, and generally relapse into their former habits on
being dismissed from their employment. In view of
these things, it is not strange that visitors, and the mer-
chants that reside at Canton, generally, express it as their
opinion that the missionary labor performed among the
Chinese, is entirely useless. But persons forming such
an opinion, are generally ignorant of that principle which
stimulates the servant of God to sow his seed in the
morning, and in the evening not to withhold his hand,
namely, that faith which believes, even against hope.
4
■t.
202
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
I
Monday, 12th. We resumed our exploration of the
city of Canton. Strangers have not the freedom of the
city, though there is much more Hberty now than
formerly. However, up to the present time, foreigners
venturing too far up into the city, are frequently robbed,
and ratanned through the streets. The recent treaties
which other nations have made with China since the
late war, provided that the city gates should be thrown
open to foreigners, but as yet the people of Canton are
violently opposed to such a desecration of their ancient
customs. Keying, the imperial commissioner and go-
vernor general of the pro\ ince of Kwangtung, caused a
proclamation to be posted up m the city, on the night of
the 12th, informing the people that the time had come
when the conditions of the treaty in reference to the
freedom of the city, must be fulfilled, and cautioning
the people against molesting any foreigners that were
disposed to enter within the walls. But the populace,
supported by a large majority of the wealthy inhabitants
of the city, on discovering the proclamation on the
morning of the 13th, tore it down with great violence,
rent it m pieces, and stamped it in the mud. Another
proclamation, purporting to be from the wealthy and
virtuous citizens of Canton, was put up in its place,
which threatened death to any foreigner who should dare
to enter within the gates. Notwithstanding the excite-
ment which these opposing proclamations produced, we
resolved to improve the short time we had to stay, in
seeing whatever was interesting, within the undisputed
range of the barbarians. ., .>.
Tuesday, 13th. Visited the "Fatee," or flower-gar-
den, on the opposite side of the river, and above the
temple of Honan. This is a most magnificent garden,
and the plants are all grown in earthern pots. Here
are almost an infinite variety of flowers, and several
kinds of oranges, which are also grown in pots, and
which line the diflferent alleys, and tempt the visitor to
violate the rules of the garden, by disburdening the
loaded plants of some of their golden fruit. The
Chinese, better than any other nation, perhaps, under-
VOYAGE TO ( HINA.
203
ation of the
jdom of the
now than
J, foreigners
ntly robbed,
ent treaties
a since the
1 be thrown
Canton are
beir ancient
ler and go-
ig, caused a
the night of
B had come
ence to the
I cautioning
8 that were
le populace,
iT inhabitants
ion on the
at violence,
1. Another
vealthy and
n its place,
should dare
the excite-
roduced, we
to stay, in
undisputed
flower-gar-
1 above the
!ent garden,
pots. Here
and several
n pots, and
he visitor to
rdening the
fruit. The
laps, under-
stand the art of dwarfing trees and plants, and causing
them to grow in any shape they choose. Here may be
SL'<;n orange trees from one ioot to three feet high,
standing in large ear^hcrn pots, and so filled with fruit
that every expedient possible is entered into to pi'event
them from breaking down. Here, also, is a shrub, in
appearance similar to the hawthorn, which the Chinese
cause to grow in the exact shape of a pagoda, a junk, an
elephant, a bird, or any thing else, according as their
fancy leads them. Nothing can exceed the regularity
and beauty of the Fatee, or flower-garden ; and it was
some hours after we entered, before we were ablcj to
break away from the charm which the multiflorous
productions of this delightful garden cast around us.
Leaving this garden, which the Ingenuitv of the Chinese
has rendered so interesting, we re-crossed the Chookeang,
and visited the palace of Houqua, situated about two
miles above the city of Canton. The house is splendid,
purely Chinese, the furniture magnificent, and the walls
of the rooms adorned with fine Chinese paintings. It
was in this house where all the recent treaties with
other nations were signed. K .
Wednesday, 14th. Called on Drs. Bridgeman and
Parker, who are missionaries of the American Board.
The latter has accepted an appointment under the United
States' government, as Chinese interpreter, with a salary
of three thousand dollars per annum. He has been in
China twelve years; has estabhshed a hospital for the ben-
efit of the Chinese, and from almost innumerable and suc-
cessful surgical operations, has earned an enviable repu-
tation in his adopted country. With the former I had
considerable conversation concerning the success of
missionary operations in China, and found him to be any
thing but sanguine in his expectations, but hoping to see
the results of his labors after many days. He is not one
of those fiery spirits, who, from the excitement of the
moment, are in the habit of blazing forth their high
wrought accounts of the work of God in heathen lands,
which frequently recoil back upon their authors, and the
cause they are designed to represent, much to the injury
204
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
'VI
of both, but he appears to take a sober, candid view of
the ffreat work in which he is engaged, and realizes the
fearml responsibility that rests upon him. He has
obtained considerable celebrity by publishing several
important Chinese works. In the evening called on Dr.
Ball, who ^is likewise a missionary of the American
Board, and appears to be much devoted to his work.
Thursday, 15th. Explored various parts of the city
and found the Chinese very much excited on account
of the proclamation of Keying, in which he ordered
that the gates of Canton, which had been closed for
ages, should, for the first time, be opened to the barba-
rians of Europe and America.
There seemed to be a great commotion among the
populace, and it was anticipated by the foreigners that
the night would not pass away without some outrage.
Those who are opposed to the order of the governor
call themselves "patriots," and declare that the barba-
rians shall not enter their city gates, but t!ie man that
dares to attempt to pass the sacred inclosure, shall lose
his head. At midnight a portion of the oM city was
illuminated by the burning of the house of the mayor.
A mob of more thar two thousand gathered around the
house of this functionary with the design of consuming
him and his property together. Leaving the house
through a private passage, he escaped their fury, and in
a short time all that remained of his princely mansion
was a heap of smouldering ruins. '
Friday, 16th. The excitement conxinued to rise, ar.
early in the morninff the foreign factories, particularly
those occupied by the English, were invested by vast
throngs of the angry Chinese, and the English were
hourly expecting an attack. What contributed to in-
crease the excitement was, the expected arrival of an
English steamboat from Hong Kong, to receive the last
payment of the indemnity. The whole amount of the
indemnity was twenty millions of dollars, and this last
payment was two millions. The patriots declare that it
shall not be paid, and that if the authorities attempt to
convey it out of the city, they will seize upon the money
Voyage to china.
295
and burn down the English factories. I was in the
I'actories a number of times during the day, and found
the peopie preparing for a vigorous defence, expecting
that they would be attacked the following night, and
more so in consequence of the approach of the Chinese
new-year, when the people are exceedingly desirous to
obtain money, and always become greatly excited.
About noon we received a letter from the gentlemen to
whom the Leiand was consigned, (Wetmore & Co.),
idvising us, as our vessel would be ready for sea Satur-
day evening, to join her without delay, for fear an
ir^mediate outbreak would greatly endanger, if not
e-.tirely close the communication between Canton and
Whampoa, where our vessel lay. With much effort, in
the midst of great excitement, we succeeded in getting
ready to leave at sundown, and consequently we had
ine pleasure of a night-excursion on the Chookeang
^om Canton to Whampoa, the distance of twelve nriles.
Though there is considerable danger in navigating
these waters in the night time from thieves and pirates,
which here abound in vast numbers, yet, at ten o'clock
we arrived along side the Leiand without accident, and,
though we were literally thrust out of the city, yet
we were glad to find ourselves once more on boprd the
vessel destined to convey us to our native land.
Sunday, 18th. Had an engagement to preach on
board the Rainbow that had just arrived from New
York ; but was prevented from going on account of the
rain. When vessels are ready for sea, the captains never
wait for Monday; conseruontly in the afternoon our
ship weighed anchor, and dropped down the river a few
miles ; but at dark, again came to anchor to await the
arrival of Mr. Finlay from Canton. About midnight
Mr. Finlay arrived, and reported that the excitement
still continued at Canton, and that the foreigners were
hourly expecting a furious outbreak ; but we congratu-
lated ourselves, that before it took place we should be
" far away on the billows."
Monday, 19th. Before a fine breeze we sailed down
296
VOYAGE TO CUINA.
1.'- 1%
y-
1
the Canton river, passing the United States frigate
Vincennes, and the line-of-battle ship Columbus. These
vessels have recently arrived in China, and the com-
manding officer, Commodore Biddle, is authorized, on
the part of the United States, to act as minister to the
Chinese government. These vessels are both moving
up the river for the purpose of being ready to act in
defence of any American interests which may be in-
volved in the insurrectional movements at Canton. It is
also said that Gov. Davies, in case of any outbreak, will
send the soldiers who are quartered at Hong Hong, up
the river, to assist the Chinese authorities against the
insurgents.
Captain Skillington, of the Leland, having discharged
his steward and cook, we found it necessary to return
to Hong Kong, for the purpose of supplying their places.
Accordmgly, at six o'clock, p. m., we cast anchor again
in the bay of Hong Kong, about four miles from shore.
It was impossible for the captain to accomplish his
objects here without spending the whole of Tuesday,
and this gave us an opportunity to take a more formal
leave of our newly made friends in this place.
Before taking our final departure from the coast of
the Celestial Empire, it will be proper to make some
observations concerning a few things which have not
yet been exhibited, but which cannot fail to strike the
foreigner with considerable interest.
The first I shall mention is the antiquated appearance
of every thing that presents itself. While the nations
of Europe and America are moving onward from one
improvement to another, with unexampled celerity, and
attracting universal admiration as well as conferring
incalculable good upon the world, the Chinese seldom
advance a step beyond the customs, habits and fashions,
which characterized their remotest ancestors ; and they
have been equally slow in adopting any of the usages
and improvements of "distant foreigners." Architect-
ure, agriculture, costume, and all the arts and sciences,
remain in China, as the lawyers say, "in statu quo;"
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
297
and this inertia of every thine is not only a prominent
characteristic of the Chinese, but constitutes a subject in
which they glory.
Another thing which strikes the foreigner is the
astonishing contrariety to what he has been taught as
proper, which appears in the habits and occupations of
the Chinese. We have considered the right, as the
place of honor, but the Chinese give precedence to the
left. Black is considered by the nations of the west as
the appropriate badge of mourning, but in the estimation
of the Chinese, there is nothing so proper as white.
The Chinese do not number the cardinal points in our
order, but always mention the south before the north,
and the west before the east ; thus, — south, north, west
and east. And instead of saying north-west, south-west,
as we do, they say west-north, west-south, &c. The
compass of the Chinese, instead of pointing to the north,
is so constructed as to point to the south. This contra-
riety appears in many other particulars, and the fact of
its existence brings one to the conclusion that we are
not to estimate the Chinese by the criterion of European
taste and usage. :. -k . i . .
A third subject of interest to foreigners on entering
the cities of China, is the numerous manufactories and
trades in operation, wherever he goes. Properly speak-
ing, there is no machinery in the country ; consequently
no such extensive manufacturing establishments as in
Europe and America. In consequence of the absence
of all kinds of machinery calculated to lessen the amount
of manual labor, the number of hands employed in
carrying forward the different trades is truly immense.
A great proportion of the manufacturing business re-
quired to supply the commercial houses of Canton, is
performed at Fuhshan, a large town situated a few miles
westward. Still, the amount accomplished in Canton, is
by no means inconsiderable. There are from fifteen to
twenty thousand persons engaged in Canton in weaving
silk ; fifty thousand in manufacturing cloth of different
kinds ; five thousand shoemakers ; from seven thousand
13
I-
^ff
1 1 1
208
VOYAGE TO CtflNXr
to ten thousand barbers, besides an unnumbered multi-
tude who work in wood, brass, iron, stone, and various
other materials, too numerous to mention.
Those who engage in each of these respective occu-
pations, form a separate community,— each community
having its own laws and regulations to control their
business.
On ascending the Chookeang river from Macao to
Canton, nothing interests the foreigner so much as the
vast number and almost endless variety of boats by
which he is constantly surrounded ; every boat forming
a habitation for one family, or more, according to its
dimensions and the wealth of the occupants. There
are officers appointed by the government to regulate
and control this portion of the inhabitants ; consequently
all the boats, of the various sizes and descriptions which
are seen here, are registered. The number adjacent
and belonging to the city of Canton is eighty-four thou-
sand. A large proportion of these are what the Chinese
call Tankea (egg-house) boats. These are very small,
varying from ten to fifteen feet long, and from four to
six feet broad. In large coops lashed to the outside of
these boats, are reared large broods of ducks and chick-
ens, designed for the city markets, while within them
whole families live and die. These, together with the
passage boats, ferry boats, canal boats, pleasure boats,
cruisers, &c., complete the Hst of these floating habita-
tions, and constitute a permanent dweUing place for a
population of three hundred thousand souls !
Another subject of interest to the stranger visiting
China, is found in the piratical character of many of the
Chinese inhabiting the numerous islands, which consti-
tute an extensive archipelago along the coast of the
Chinese sea. Among these islands, piracies and rob-
beries are of frequent occurrence. During our stay at
Canton, an English vessel was attacked, almost within
hailinff distance of Macao. The pirates boarded her,
after Having cleared the decks of her crew, by killing
one and causing the others to take refuge in the hold,
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
209
and rifling her of all that would be valuable to them,
made their escape. These pirates often combine in
large numbers, and attack large commercial houses ;
nor are they discriminating, but fall alike upon those
belonging both to Chinese and foreigners. The school-
house belonging to the Morrison Education Society,
situated on Morrison Hill, and occupied by Rev. S. K.
Brown and family, was, a short time ago, captured by a
band of them in the night, the family escaping from one
side, while the robbers were entering on the other.
They were in possession of the house for several hours,
and finally escaped with their booty to their island
fastnesses. Soon after this occurrence they made an
attempt upon an English house situated at the west end
of the city of Victoria. Prepared with their scaling
ladders, as their habit was, they mounted the building
in large numbers, and while in the act of removing the
tiling so that they could descend into the building, a
charge of grape from a six pounder mounted on a
neighboring eminence, was poured into them, and two
of their number rolled like logs from the roof to the
ground, and the remainder took to flight.
r'\ :
I
•J- sjsir^i
#
CHAPTER XV.
Voyage from Hong Kong to New York — Chinese Sea — Islands — Strait of Gasper
— Java Sea — Strait of Sunda — Perilous condition of the Leland — Loss of
cable and anchor — Ship saved — Sumatra and Java — Pulo Bassa — Malays
— Indian Ocean — Cape of Good Hope — Cast anchor in Table Bay — Cape
Town — Colony — Vineyards — Produce — Missionary labor — The responsibility
0: of churches — Difficulty on board — Captain fined ~ His charactar — The
supercargo — Mrs. Hooper — Adieu to Africa — Cleansing the ship — Man
overboard — Splendid eclipse of the sun — Reflections — The Gulf stream —
Coast of New Jersey — New York.
if'
J"
On Wednesday morniijg, the 21 st of January, at four
o'clock, our sails were again spread to the breeze, and
bidding adieu to the granite mountains of the Celestial
Empire, we shaped our course towards the Cape of
Good Hope. We had a remarkably pleasant time in
sailing down the Chinese Sea, though this is reported as
the most dangerous navigation in the world. Multitudes
of vessels, through the effects of the ty-phongs, have
either been foundered in this sea, or dashed to pieces on
some of the numerous shoals with which these waters
abound. But happily for us, this is not the season of ty-
phongs, but the north-east monsoon blows steadily, in a
seven knot breeze, and renders the sailing most de-
lightful.
We made several islands on our passage down the
sea, some of which are inhabited by Malays. The
islands appeared beautiful, being mostly covered with
verdure ; and surrounded by the watery waste, resem-
bled the oasis of the Arabian desert.
Arriving at the entrance of the Strait of Gasper in
the evening, we were obliged to come to anchor, and
wait for the light of morning to conduct us through it.
This strait connects the Chinese with the Java Sea, and
TO NEW YORK.
801
IS full of rocks and shoals, which render the navigation
dangerous, especially in the night. - . :
It was on a rock in this strait, where the Alcesta, an
English frigate, was wrecked, with Lord Amherst on
board. The vessel was a total loss, but the people took
to the boats, and all succeeded in crossing the Java Sea
to Batavia, on the island of Java, the distance of three
hundred miles. In passing through the strait we were
not conscious of a very great proximity to danger, but
delighted ourselves with me beautiful prospect presented
by the numerous islands, rocks, and birds upon the wing,
by which the scenery was diversified.
A fine breeze wafted us quickly across the Java Sea,
and on Sunday, the first of February, we entered the
strait of Sunda. Having a fair wind, we attempted to
run directly through, though the captain was aware
that we would have to contend with counter currents.
Suddenlv the wind left us, and we found ourselves
drifting broad side on to an island which was but a
little distance from us. Before the men could get the
anchor ready for letting go, such was the rapidity of
the current, that we had approached within a few rods
of the shore, and some of us expected every moment
that the vessel would strike, as she was carried towards
the point of the island at the rate of five knots. Our
only hope was in the anchor, which fortunately was let
go just in time to prevent the vessel from running
aground. Chain was " paid out " freely, to prevent the
anchor from dragging, and when we found that the
anchor held, -and had time to view the place, the captain
observed that we might think ourselves well off if we
got away from that spot by losing our anchor and cable.
The current dashed past us with astonishing force, and
would have carried us to inevitable destruction, if our
anchor had not held us fast.
Though the weather was calm and pleasant, we
passed here an uncomfortable night, in consequence of
our dangerous position. We were within a stone's cast
of the shore, and as our vessel swung to the current, it
was but a short distance from our stern to where the
309
VOYAGE FKOM HONG KONG
m
pV V
u
!^i-: I
8' !
'Am
water rushed furiously on to rocks which were imbed-
ded below the surface, and formed eddies and whirlpools
truly frightful to contemplate. But our cable was strong,
and our anchor held firm, so that on the fol)o.wing
morning we had changed our position but a few Tods,
the current having caused the anchor to drag but a
short distance towards the land. Happily for us, a
breeze sprunff up on Monday, quartering from the shore,
and i^ainst the current ; but, though thus favored, we
did not dare to raise the anchor ; consequently, a spring
was fixed upon it, and it was determined to make all
sail, slip the cable, and leave the anchor where it lay.
This appeared to be the only alternative, and, at all
events, it succeeded. The vessel, after trembling a few
moments against the current, began gradually to move
before the freshening breeze, and as we turned partly
across the current to get away from the land, the spring
cable snapped asunder, and we were quickly borne by
the timely breeze to a safe distance from our dangerous
moorings.
Again in the centre of the strait of Sunda, steering
our course towards the island of Pulo Bassa, which lay
in sight, we felt called upon to offer up a tribute of
thanksgiving to that merciful Providence who had de-
livered us from the imminent danger by which we had
been surrounded.
Navigators, in passing through the strait of Sunda,
have to guard against shoals, rocks and currents ; and
often head winds detain vessels here for many days
before they can get through. At the entrance of the
strait, we overtook two English vessels, which ap-
peared to be feeling their way along, with the utmost
care. One of them came to anchor near the islands
called the Twin Sisters, and while we lay in our dan-
ferous position, she weighed anchor, and showed us her
Inglish colors as she passed.
This strait divides the islands of Sumatra and Java.
The former is inhabited by Malays, and is the scene
where the missionaries, Lyman and Monson, met their
tragical death. The coast is low and fiat in some places.
TO NEW YORK.
808
in others, hilly. The island presents the appearance of
great fertility.
Java presents a more uneven surface, and, as seen from
the strait, does not appear so fertile. The Dutch are its
possessors. Batavia and Aigier are places of conside-
rable importance. This island is well situated for
commerce, and, but for its deathly climate, it would
doubtless prober more rapidly.
Beside these, are severaJ small islands about the strait,
which altogether present a very agreeable prospect.
As the wind did not favor us for clearing Java Head,
on the second, we put in towards Sumatra, and came to
anchor under the lee of Pulo Bassa, which is a high
circular island, and, with two or three other islands of
the same character, and the highlands on the island of
Sumatra, forms a good shelter from the north-west
winds. On coming to anchor, the wind, which had
been hardly sufficient to enable us to gain our harbor,
entirely died away ; and, as the sea was smooth, we
were here permitted to spend a quiet night, which is a
great luxury at sea.
The islands around us were inhabited by Malays, a
number of whom came off with shells, turtles, banannas,
&c., to trade with us. We purchased all they brought,
and found that money was the object of their principal
desire, and that they well understood its value. Those
that came to us were very brown, dwarfish and filthy
objects, and their teeth were as black as ebony, occa-
sioned, probably, by their use of beetle-nuts, as an article
of food. ' •
On the morning of the 3rd of February, we weighed
anchor, and were soon out of sight of land, amidst the
solitudes of the Indian ocean.
For a few of the first days, after leaving the islands,
we made but slow progress, on account of baffling
winds. On the fourth day, however, we secured the
south-east trade, which continued, with little variation,
until we approached the Cape of Good Hope.
Oil our leaving China, it was the intention of Mr.
Finlay, the supercargo, to stop at St. Helena, to procure
i
'^^
304
. )
VOYAGE FROM HONO KONG
water and fresh provisions ; but, through the recom-
mendation of the captain, it was finally determined to stop
at Cape Town. Consequently, on approaching the lati-
tude of the Cape, we hauled up towards land, and the
eastern coast of Africa, with its high mountains and
barren sands, appeared on our right, about one hundred
miles north of the southern extremity of the continent.
The most southern point of land is nqj the Cape of
Good Hope, as is generally supposed, but a low point
about thirty miles south-east of the Cape of Good
Hope, called Cape LaguUus. Hence the soundings,
which here extend far mto the ocean, are called " La-
gullus Banks.''
We reached these banks the day before we made
land, and the appearance of the grampus, cape geese,
and other aquatic animals, which there abound, presented
an agreeable diversion from the tedious monotony of a
voyage of five thousand miles across the Indian ocean.
During thirty-five days there was scarcely an object
appeared to attract attention, though we were sailing
over that part of the great deep where some of the
principal scenes of the ** Flying Dutchman " were laid.
However, we were gravely told by our captain, thai,
even to this day, there occasionally appears a full-rigged
ship, hull and all, above water, in the vicinity of the Cape
of Good Hope, answering to the description of the Flying
Dutchman ; and he averred, that he had often seen it
himself, notwithstanding the assurance of Captain Marry-
att, that the *' Phantom Ship is no more."
The day we doubled the Cape of Good Hope was a
remarkably pleasant one, and we sailed along in full
view of the coast during the whole day. When we
arrived off the Cape, we were within three miles of
land, and every object on shore could be distinctly seen
from the ship's deck. We had a splendid breeze in
passing around, and we left in our rear, in quick succes-
sion, Cape Point, Gurner's Coin, and English Point, and
rounding to, to enter the harbor of Cape Town, we
fell under the lee of the high lands of the coast, where
we lost our wind, and within sight of the town, harbor,
:'v-
TO NEW YORK.
805
shipping, light-house, and the American Consulate, where
the stars and stripes were fluttering in the breeze, we
lay in a dead calm till the following morning. A gentle
breeze arose with the sun, and bore us into the quiet
bosom of Table Bay, on the shore of which is situated
the beautiful and picturesque city known by the name of
Cape Town.
Our stay he^e was only a day and a half, but we im-
proved the time in examining every thing interesting in
and about the place. The town is quite beautiful, and
seems to be more active and animated than any other
English town I have ever seen.
It is built on an inclined plain, which extends from the
base of Table Mountain to the waters of the bay, the
distance of one mile and a half.
The streets are broad and regular, crossing each other
at right angles, but without side-walks ; a smgular defi-
ciency in a town where walking seems to be fashionable
with all classes. Coaches appear to be numerous, and
it is here that a stranger can judge of the quality of an
individual, and the amount of his income, from the
splendor of his riding equipage. Here may be seen the
rough cart, drawn by a mule, the common buggy,
coach and one, coach and two, coach and four, coach
and six. I saw some of the latter class, with the coach
and harness mounted with gold ; but as I heard the
sound of weeping issue from one of the coaches, I was
reminded that misery is closely allied to opulence and
grandeur.
To make up for the deficiency of suitable walks in the
city, the Anglo Africans, a little distance out of town,
have a number of the most beautifully shaded prome-
nades, which, for all the elite of the place, are very
fashionable as well as very pleasant resorts. Doubtless
the present occupants of Cape Town are indebted to the
Dutch for a great many of the comforts and luxuries
which they now enjoy ; particularly the delightful gar-
dens and shaded walks, which render Cape Town a
very pleasant place.
There are a number of elegant buildings in the city ;
13*
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806
V«YAOE FROM MONO KONO
but there appeared to be but few now being erected,
which shows that the place is at a stand. Churches
abound, and the principal are the Episcopal, Lutheran
and Wesleyan. There are three or four of the latter,
but, from the shortness of our stay, I could not particu-
larly inform myself in regard to the state of religion in
the colony.
The number of inhabitants in Cape Colony, embracing
all ranks and colors, is about fifty thousand ; thirty
thousand of whom reside in Cape Town.
As in all foreign countries that have been colonized by
Europeans, where the native inhabitants are colored,
the people of Cape Town present all possible shades of
complexion. Those, however, who share in the blood
of the Hottentot, it is presumed, are not admitted into
the higher classes of society, but many of them, espe-
cially among the brunettes, possess remarkably fine
forms and features, and, in the streets of Cape Town,
and on the diflferent promenades,-^ present a very respect-
able appearance.
It is well known that the Dutch were the first Eu-
ropeans that gained a footing in south Africa ; and Cape
Town, as well as the surrounding country, presents
many evidences of the taste and enterprise of their first
civilized inhabitants. The beautiful groves already
spoken of, some of which are a mile in extent, are all
artificial, and composed of a species of black oak. The
trees have been collected with great labor, and planted
in regular rows, and so near together that their boughs
intermingle over head, so as to form a dense shade at all
times of day. Doubtless the naturally destitute condi-
tion of the country, as it regards timber, and the desire
to screen themselves from the burning heat of the sun,
prompted the first settlers to form these artificial forests.
Be this as it may, they are used by the present popu-
lation as a great luxury. We had an opportunity to
judge of their utility from personal experience. As we
rambled through the town, we found the heat of the
sun exceedingly oppressive ; but coming to a gate which
opened into one of these retreats, we walked in, and
TO NEW YORK.
307
found ourselves in an atmosphere truly refreshing. In
the centre of the grove which we explored, and which
is ahout one mile long, is the residence of the governor
of the Colony, and, as we passed, we observed that the
gateway leading to the palace was guarded by two huge
lions. Nothing can appear more rural than the govern-
or's seat, though witiiin one-half mile of the tumult of
the busy town.
Within the precincts of the town, as well as round
about, vineyards abound. The raising of grapes appears
to be one of the principal pursuits of the people, the
Dutch portion of the population in particular. The
grapes are of various kinds, and exceedingly fine, some
of them comparing in size with the green gage-plum.
They are used, as in other countries where they abound,
for the manufacture of wines and raisins. These arti-
cles of commerce are sent to Europe and America,
annually, in great abundance, and are known as Cape
wines and Cape raisins. We were in one of the estab-
lishments where they are manufactured, and from the
specimens of wines which were there shown, it is not
difficult to believe that nine-tenths of the stuff sold and
drank, in the name of wine, in civilized countries, are
entirely spurious. The raisins, though of a good quality,
will not compare with the Malaga, and some other kinds.
We were conducted to a room where the negroes were
packing raisins, and observed that they would first fill
the boxes, and then spread a piece of cloth over the
raisins and trample them in with their feet. Apples,
also, and pears, abound in the city, and are of a good
quality. They grow mostly in the interior, but are
always to be found in the market, as also potatoes,
onions and other vegetables, for the accommodation of
ships. ;*'.
As it regards the civil state of the country, all was
quiet and prospering around the Cape, but in conse-
quence of the threatening aspect of things among the
Bushmen, the soldiers that were quartered at Cape Town
have all been sent off to the frontiers, and it is expected
1
I
308
VOYAGE FROM HONG KONG
/•"
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fi
that their presence in that region will keep every thing
quiet.
The American Consul, who appears to be truly a reli-
gious man, gave us the following information, with
respect to the results of missionary labor in Cape
Colony : Large numbers of the native inhabitants, in
various places, had professed to be converted, but very
few had continued, for any length of time, to give evi-
dence of a genuine change of heart. Indeed, it appears
to be the case in Africa, as well as in other heathen
countries, that it is much easier to get the people con-
verted than it is to keep them so. Though the good
accompUshed for the natives mr^ be limited, yet mis-
sionary labor, in such a place as Cape Colony, is vastly
important, in securing the well-being of foreign residents,
and in giving a correct tone to the moral state of society.
However elevated human nature may become through
the influence of science, truth and correct example, it
has a natural tendency downwards, which will always
exhibit itself in proportion as the restraints of religion
cease to be felt. Governments seldom supply their
colonies with that kind and amount of religious influence
necessary to preserve a wholesome moral atmosphere in
society. This must be done by the church of Christ ;
and it is only necessary for Christians to understand the
true .condition of those countries which are being re-
deemed from barbarism by the settlement of colonies
from civilized and Christian nations, to induce them to
use their best endeavors to supply them with all the
necessary means for religious instruction.
Foreigners, Europeans and Americans, are found in all
heathen countries, where they have settled for the pur-
pose of accumulating money ; and, generally, the mis-
sionary will succeed with the heathen in proportion to the
degree of influence he is able to throw around the con-
duct of foreign residents. Vicious foreigners, residing
among the heathen, may, by a few weeks or even days
of wickedness, destroy the religious efforts of many
years ; and these are the characters with whom the
TO NEW YORK.
309
missionary must come in contact in all parts of the
world ; and this may be regarded as one of the greatest
hindrances to his success.
The ship having procured its supplies of fresh pro-
visions and water, and ourselves having purchased a
suitable quantity of apples, pears and fresh grapes, for
our own pri^rate use, on Friday evening, the 14th of
March, we weighed anchor, to resume our homeward
voyage ; but, for the want of a breeze, we did not suc-
ceed in getting out of Table Bay, until the followint
morning. Before leaving, a circumstance happened
illustrative of the character of the captain, under whose
rule we lived for nearly one hundred and fifty days.
He had shipped a sailor at Hong Kong, but in conse-
quence* of a disagreement about the price, the sailor, who
was a smart, active Italian, had not signed any bonds,
and consequently considered that he had a right to leave
the vessel at the Cape, if he was so disposed. He ac-
cordingly informed the captain that he wished to settle
with him, as he designed to leave. The captain, having
had a grudge against him ever since the first difficulty,
became now exceedingly enraged, at what he called the
" scoundrel's insolence," and, seizing a belaying-
pin, struck the sailor in the forehead, and, but for the
rigging, the latter would !-ave fallen to the deck. He
gathered himself, however, and, rising upon his feet,
with his face covered with blood, very properly up-
braided the infuriated captain, for the cruelty of his
conduct.
The captain had had a similar difficult ^ with a seaman
at Hong Kong, whom he chased all over the deck of the
vessel, unmercifully pounding him with a belaying-pin,
subsequently causing him to be put in irons, and flogged.
The seaman, after being discharged, entered a complaint
against the captain, before the Consul, and, (as the cap-
tain told Mrs. Hooper,) recovered damages of him to the
amount of one hundred dollars, which, the captain said, he
" walked up and paid like a man." For fear of meeting
with a similar retribution at Cape Town, for his cruel
treatment of the defenceless Italian, he detained a boat
310
VOYAGE PfeOM HONG KONG
Nil!!'
along side, and kept the sailor on board of the vessel till
we were well under way ; and vvhen he supposed that
we were so far away that there was no danger of bting
pursued, he sent the sailor into the boat, to be taken
ashore. As the Italian was leaving the deck, his com-
rades saluted him by saying, " there goes the best sailor
we had among us."
Notwithstanding these objectionable traits in his cha-
racter, our captain is an excellent navigator ; he appears
perfectly at home on the vessel, and is more laborious
than any other captain I have ever seen. While I have
no occasion to fina fault with his course in reference to
myself and family, I can speak in high commendation of
his conduct towards Mrs. Hooper and her childreti. He
was particularly attentive to their wants, while he was
liberal with all the passengers on board ; and but for
strong drink, that great spoiler of humanity, he would
be one of the safest captains that sail upon the " great
deep." ^ '
From our experience on this vessel, I am fully per-
suaded that, where passengers and ships' crews suner, as
is often the case, for the want of suitable provisions, it is
owing, in nine cases out of ten, to the penuriousness or
carelessness of owners and captains. No word of
complaint, however, can be preferred against the Leland,
for the quality of the fare which she afforded. Every
thing was in good time, and in good order ; and the
variety of meats, vegetables and sauce, with which the
table was furnished, was truly surprising to us, who, on
other vessels, had been accustomed to such different
fare. Besides his attention to the wants of the passen-
gers, Mr. Finlay proved himself to be a very agreeable
cabin companion. He is very much of a gentleman,
and having followed the seas for more than twenty
years, as supercargo, he has collected a vast fund of
general information.
It is often necessary to be subjected to a close con-
nection with others, for some length of time, in order to
be able to form correct opinions concerning them. Mrs.
Hooper, we found to be, not only a very benevolent
TO NEW YORK.
311
person, but an agreeable associate in the cabin. We
shall often call to mind the many hours at sea which
have been rendered more endurable by her intelligent
conversation and cheerful deportment.
Saturday, the 15th of March, the mountainous coast
of southern Africa disappeared in the dim distance.
For the first few days after leaving Table Bay, we
made but little progress, in consequence of adverse
winds, but the fourth day, we took the south-east trades,
and begaii to indulge the pleasing reflection, that the
next land we saw would be the shores of our own native
country, though there were checks thrown upon our
happiness by the consideration, that there were still
many dangers to pass, and storms to buffet, before we
should reach the desired haven.
The s6uth-east trade-winds are not very strong, and
the ocean, in the region where they prevail, is generally
smooth, and the weather pleasant ; consequently, it is in
passing over these latitudes that vessels, homeward
bound, prepare for entering port. The vessel is to be
scrubbed, inside and out ; the decks are to be scraped,
holy-stoned, and varnished ; the spars are to be cleansed
and painted, and the bulwarks, masts, round-house,
chains, guns, casks, buckets, and binacle, are all to be
scoured and painted. The rigging is to be overhauled
and tarred down ; empty boxes, barrels, and all unne-
cessary lumber, are to be cast overboard ; rent sails are
all to be mended, and put in perfect order, and every
thing, even to the anchor, is to put on, at least a
clean outside, so that the ship will make as good an ap-
pearance when she enters port as when she left. As
the Leland had been out nearly eighteen months, and in
that time having performed a voyage round the world,
she required much cleansing, and the seamen were
busily employed in accomplishing this object, for several
weeks.
While this work was going on, an accident happened
which produced a great excitement on board. We were
sailing br*bre the wind at the rate of five knots an hour,
and a sailor bov, who was on the outside of the bul-
312
VOYAGE FROM HONG KONG
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1 1
f.
I, •
warks, scraping the fore chains, and was held to his
place by a rope tied around his waist, and fastened to a
oelaying-pin, from carelessness, lost his hold, and, as the
rope slipped upon the pin, he fell into the ocean. As he
was falling, he hallooed as loud as he could roar, for his
comrades to haul in the slack of the rope. As they did
not understand him, a cry was raised, that resounded
from the after cabin to the forecastle, that " a man was
overboard." The ladies in the cabin heard the cry, and
Mrs. Hooper thought it was her little daughter, as she
heard the word " child," and Mrs. Hines thought I was
the unfortunate one, as she heard my name mentioned
in connection with " overboard."
Which of the two were most frightened, it is difficult
to tell. Mrs. Hooper was actually thrown into a fit,
and Mrs. Hines fainted, and neither of them, two weeks
afterwards, had entirely recovered from the shock.
As soon as the cry was raised, the mate seized a hen-
coop containing nine chickens, and cast it overboard,
for the drowning man to hold upon until other relief
could be sent. But this was not necessary, as the rope
did not slip -far on the pin before it held ; and as it re-
tained its hold on his body, the frightened tar, by the
assistance of his comrades, was soon again brought on
deck.
We were twenty-six days from the Cape of Good
Hope, to the equinoctial line, and had the good fortune
to pass from the south-east to the north-east trade, with
very little detention. In the region of the equator we
experienced numerous showers of rain, but as they
were accompanied by favorable breezes, we were soon
out of the rainy latitudes, and, by the assistance of a
strong north-east trade, were passing up into the regions
of the north, at the rate of two hundred miles per day.
We crossed the equator in longitude thirty-six degrees,
and consequently were not far from the coast of Brazil.
In north latitude, twenty degrees, we approached so near
the Island of Trinidad, as to discern its whereabouts,
and witness the immense columns of clouds which hung
around its lofty and volcanic summit. From this our
il^h
TO NEW YORK
313
course lay along, about two hundred miles to the wind-
ward of the West India Islands. While passing these,
we experienced a succession of squalls and calms which
continued until we entered the twenty-fifth degree of
north latitude. While in latitude twenty-four degrees
forty-one minutes, and longitude sixty-one degrees forty
minutes, on the 25th of April, we had a splendid view
of a solar eclipse. It was a remarkably clear day, and
the eclipse was so nearly total that it became quite dark.
At the greatest obscuration the south side of the sun
presented the appearance of the moon at thirty-six hours
old, and the light preceeding from it was not, in appear-
ance, unlike to the light of the moon on a clear winterV
night. However common the phenomenon of an eclipse
of the sun may be to us, far away upon the sea, it was
a source of real entertainment ; and we cheered our-,
selves with the idea that many of our friends on land
were perhaps gazing at the same object. i a-x
A number of severe squalls while we were passing
the Bermudas, brought to mind the quaint lines of the
sailor :
"If Bermuda let you pass,
liOok ye out for Hatteras ;
If Hatteras you pass bv.
Look ye out for Cape Jienry.
>>
Bermuda, however, "let us pass" on the 25th of April,
and we began to flatter ourselves that our voyage would
soon be over.
When a person first leaves his native land and goes
to soa, the wonders of the deep are contemplated by
him with a great degree of interest. The monsters
that inhabit it — the whale, the shark, the porpoise — and
the various kinds of fish that explore its boundless ex-
tent ; together with the albatros, petrel, and other birds
which live almost perpetually on the wing, and are seen
alike in calms and storms in all latitudes, become, suc-
cessively, the objects of his curious observation. The
manner in which the ship is managed, the peculiar
phrases which salute his ear, the tacking ship, the
W'
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VOYAQB PROM HONG KONG
making sail, the shortening sail, and a thousand other
things, conspire to interest and divert him. And, indeed,
to the curious, the sea does not present that dull mono-
tony of which so many voyagers have complained.
However, subjects contemplated with great interest
on an outward voyage, do not claim the same attention
when one is bound for home, after an absence of seven
or eiffht years. The absorbing topic with us on ap-
proacning our native coast, was the distance we were
sailing from day to day, and the probable time we should
reach our much desired haven. We had been absent
nearly seven years ; and while approximating our native
shores, a thousand thoughts revolved in our minds in
reference to the circumstances in which we might find
those persons and things that were interesting to us
before subjecting ourselves to our voluntary exile. We
had left a large circle of friends, and from many of them
we had heard nothing for seven long years. As we had
been situated in the most isolated country on the globe,
the information we had received concerning the state
of our own religious denomination, had been very limit-
ed, and usually more than one year old when obtained.
The numerous changes which must have taken place
in the different localities and social circles in which it
had been our privilege to move, had been kept from our
knowledge. Indeed, a pall of darkness had long since
fallen upon most of those things which were particularly
interesting to us as private individuals ; and from the
uncertainty of every thing before us, we scarcely knew
whether to be elated or dejected — to indulge in feelings
of joy or those of sorrow — when we reflected that in a
few more days the hills and valleys of our own New
York would appear before us, and we should be permit-
ted again to visit those places rendered dear to us by
many hallowing associations. Whether we were to be
greeted by our friends on our arrival, or whether we
were to learn that they were dead, was altogether pi>:
blematical, and we began to indulge the melancholy
reflection that we might find ourselves strangers even
in our own native village.
m f
TO XKW YORK.
315
While the different changes which might have taken
ice m the various departments of church and state,
and in the families with which we had been acquainted,
were passing before our minds, our gallant vessel was
bearing us rapidly onward towards our native shores,
and on the 30th of April we entered the Gulf Stream in
latitude thirty-six degrees north, and found this terror
of the American coast in a remarkably quiet state, as it
usually is when westerly winds prevail. We were
sixteen hours in crossing the stream, and on the 1st day
of May found ourselves on soundings, off the Capes of
Virginia.
It is a singular fact often eliciting remarks from voy-
agers, though it is none the less remarkable on that
account, that the water in the Gulf Stream is fifteen
degrees warmer than it is on either side. Before
reaching it from the south, the water for a great dis-
tance was full of an aquatic plant called the gulf-weed.
As every object at sea commands the notice of the
voyager, the sea-weed was observed with no small
interest.
On getting past the stream, in the evening we were
permitted to see a grand display of Nature's fire-works.
The clouds that hung over the stream in dense masses,
were lighted up by the continued flashes of electricity,
with the most magnificent illumination. Sometimes it
would appear as if the whole ocean in our rear was in
one general conflagration.
After leaving the stream we were favored with
remarkably pleasant weather and fair winds, and on the
morning of the 2d day of May, at three o'clock, we
made the lighthouse oi Barnegat, on the coast of New
Jersey. Soon after daylight we received a New York
pilot, at which time our voyage was considered as ter-
minated ; making one hundred and two days from Hong
Kong. After receiving the pilot, a dense fog enveloped
us, through which we had to feel our way, and in the
midst of v;hich we were hovering around the entrance
to New 1( ork Bay. At length the fog was removed by
a friendly wind, and at dusk the Leland dropped her
s
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816
HONG "^ONG TO NEW YORK.
anchor inside of Sandy Hook, and within a stone's cast
of the spot where lay the Lausanne the night previous
to taking her departure in 1839.
We were detained at the Hook by dense foes until
the 4th of May, when we proceeded up the bay to
New York city, where we landed in safety on the
evening of that day.
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CHAPTER XVI.
n'^'-f :.>•{'. rUO:,r
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I Oregon Temtorjr — It* geography — Boundary and extent — Harbors — CapM —
Face of the country — Snow Mountains — Rivers — Mouth of the Columbia —
Columbia Bar — Channel — Kinds of fish — Timber — Climate — Summer and
Winter — Fertility of the soil — Clatsop Plains — Bottom lands — Puget'a
Sound — The garden of Oregon — Middle region — Upper region — Capabilitiea
of ihe country.
That portion of the vast extent of country lying
west of the Rocky* Mountains^ which has acquired, by
universal consent, the name of Oregon, lies within the
j following boundaries : Commencing at the north-west
I corner, in the centre of the Strait of Juan De Fuca, at
its mouth, consider the north line as extending along
said strait, at an equal distance from the main land on
the south, and Vancouver's Island on the north, east-
ward, the distance of one hundred and twenty miles,
thence northward till it strikes the forty-ninth parallel
of north latitude, thence due east along said parallel the
distance of five hundred and fifty miles, to the Rocky
Mountains ; on the east by the Rocky Mountains, ex-
tending from the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude,
to the forty-first, the distance of four hundred and
eighty miles ; on the south by the Snowy Mountains,
which extend, in a continuous range, from the Rocky
Mountains to Cape Mendocino, on the Pacific, the dis-
tance of seven hundred mil^^s ; and on the west by the
Pacific ocean, from Cape Mendocino, five hundred and
twenty miles due north, to the mouth of the Strait of
Juan De Fuca, near Cape Flattery, the place of begin-
ning. Since the dividing line between the two govern-
ments which have an interest and have exercised a
controlling influence in the country, has now been de-
;i
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318
OREUUN TERRITORY.
.i^'
Sr; «
fined, and the forty-ninth parallel is hereafter, forever, to
separate the two nations, it remains no longer a subject
of discussion ; but any one, in casting his eye over a
correct map of the country west of the Rocky Moun-
tains, will aiscover at one glance, that a nriore natural
division than the one which has been estabhshed, would
have been a line extending from Pucet's Sound north-east-
wardly along the summit of the highlands, which separate
the waters of the Columbia from those of Frazer's river,
to the Rocky Mountains, so as to embrace in Oregon all
the territory drained by the Columbia river. This would
have given a natural boundary to the country on all
sides, while the forty-ninth parallel is a very unnatural
one, because, in crossing the great valley of the Colum-
bia, it puts asunder that which the God of nature has
joined together.
The boundary as defined, gives Oregon about six
hundred and forty miles of coast on the Pacific ocean
and Strait of Fuca. The shores of the strait are com-
posed of beaches of sand or stones, overhung by sandy
and rocky cliffs, and from these the land ascends gradu-
ally to the foot of the mountains, which rise abruptly to
a great height within a few miles of the oceaUc The
coast along the Pacific is nearly straight froxn north to
south, in some places iron-bound, and in others composed
of low beaches of sand.
The harbors, or places of refuge for vessels along the
Oregon coast, are very few, and, if we except Puget's
Sound, with its numerous arms stretchine far inland,
there are none of the first quality. At tne mouth of
the Umpqua river there is a tolerable harbor for small
craft, and the channel across the bar will admit of the
entrance of vessels drawing eight feet. Bulfinch's
harbor, discovered by Captain Robert Gray, of Boston,
in 1792, is situated forty miles north of the mouth of
the Columbia, and by artificial means may be constituted
a safe anchorage. Port Discovery, situated near the
south-east angle of the Strait of Foea, is pronounced
perfectly safe, and convenient for ships of any size. It
OIIEOON TERRITORY.
310
18 defended from the violence of the waves by Protection
Island.
The most important harbor on the coast is that formed
by the mouth of the Columbia river, as it constitutes a
port of entry to the most important portions of Oregon.
This harbor, though difficult of access in the winter
season, when the prevailing winds on the coast are from
the south and east, may, at other times, be safely entered
by vessels drawing not more than sixteen feet, particu-
larly if the navigator is acquainted with the intricacies
of the channel. But this river, with its mouth, will be
more particularly described hereafter.
There are but few Capes along this coast, and none
that project far into the ocean ; the shores being gene-
rally straight, bold and unbroken. The principal are
Cape Blanco, which is a high point of land extending
into the ocean between the Clameth and Umpqua
rivers, and nearly under the forty-third parallel of lati-
tude ; Cape Disappointment, on the north side of the
mouth of the Columbia river, and Cape Flattery, on the
south side of the mouth of the Strait of Fuca. Cape
Disappointment, however, does not properly class with
the important Capes along the Pacific coast, as it does
not extend into the ocean, but is, at least, three miles
inside the bar of the Columbia. But it holds a promi-
nent place on all our maps and charts, as, from its pe-
culiar location and the appearance of the majestic fir-
trees upon its top, it forms an unerring guide to the
storm-beaten sailor, who is desirous of seeking shelter
in the quiet and peaceful waters of Baker's Bay.
There are no islands of importance between Capes
Mendocino and Flattery. One is found, however, Iving
about forty miles south of Cape Flattery, and named, by
the Spaniards, the "Isle of Grief," in commemoration of
the loss of some of their men, who were destroyed by
the natives on the adjacent coast. , > ;^ .
The face of this country is wonderfully diversified,
and presents every variety of scenery, from the most
awfully grand and sublime, to the most beautiful and
picturesque in nature.
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OREGON TERRITORY.
The country, in the vicjnity of Pugct*s Sound, to a
considerable extent, is level and beautiful, with the ex-
ception of which, all alone the coast, it is broken and
mountainous. On approacning the coast, at the mouth
of the Columbia river, ridges of high lands appear on
either hand, as far as the eye can reach, while the more
elevated points serve as land-marks, to guide the mari-
ner across the dreaded bar. The most remarkable of
these elevations is one, called by the Indians, "The
Swallalahoost," and celebrated by them as the place
where one of their mighty chiefs, who, after death, as-
sumed the form of a monstrous eagle, and taking win^,
flew to the top of this mountain, and subsequently be-
came the creator of the lightning and the thunder.
From this tradition, as well as from the appearance of
the mountain, it is supposed by some, that it might pos-
sibly have once been an active volcano. Captain Wilkes,
on his exploring visit to the country, gave it the name
of " Saddle Mountain," from the resemblance of its top
to the shape of a saddle. With but little variation, the
country south of the Columbia, from thirty to fifty
miles back from the ocean, and extending the whole
extent of the Oregon coast, presents the same rough,
wild and mountainous aspect. Doubtless, this region is
destined to be occupied by civilized man, but not until
there is no room left in the numerous valleys of this
wide-spread country.
Having passed over this range of high lands along the
coast, you descend, on the north side of the Columbia,
iuto the valley of the Cowilitz, and on the south, into
that of the Wallamette river, and still farther south,
you come down on the plains which lie on the Umpqua
and Clameth rivers. The valley of the Cowilitz is
about forty miles in length, and varying from ten to
twenty in breadth, and extends east to the foot of that
range of mountains of which " St. Helen's," the Mount
Adams of Americans, is the highest peak. The Walla-
mette valley is more extensive, being from fifty to eighty
miles broad, and more than two hundred miles long.
The plains on the Umpqua, which commence abou*
r Eoo^ territory
831
forty-five miles back from the ocean, are quite extensive^
and, with those on the Clameth, and the Wallamette
valley, extend east to that ran^e of mountains, which,
crossing the Columbia river, form the Cascades, and
are therefore called the " Cascade Mountains."
Throughout these valleys are scattered numberless
hillocks and rising grounds, from the top of some of
which, scenery, as enchanting as was ever presented to
the eye, delights and charms the lover of nature, who
takes time to visit their conical summits.
The whole extent of country from the Cascade moun-
tains to the Pacific ocean, varying in breadth from
seventy-five to one hundred and twenty miles, is called
the Lower Country.
The Cascade mountains extend in one continuous
range, parallel with the coast, quite to California, and
have therefore some times been called " The California
Mountains."
Those whose highest observations have been limited
to the Catskill and Alleghany mountains, can form no
just conception of the grandeur and magnificence of
this stupendous range. Some of its loftiest summits are
more than fifteen thousand feet above the level of the
ocean, and Mount Olympus, near Cape Flattery, and St.
Helen's, near the head of the Cowilitz river, and fifty
miles from the coast, can both be seen for some distance
at sea. r •:-■■'!'■-; ; • •t--^«..<j :l-h'*^ ,-n!.fi':''^ :::>'^'*
These highest points are covered with eternal snow,
and, presenting their rounded tops to the heavens, ap-
pear like so many magnificent domes, to adorn tne
temple of nature. From one elevation near the Walla-
mette river, and at the distance of from sixty to one
hundred and fifty miles, the writer has counted eight of
these snow-topped mountains, without moving from his
tracks. Surely, no scenery can be more enchanting.
One of these mountains, St. Helen's, requires a more
particular account, from a phenomenon which it pre-
sented a few years ago. In the month of October,
1842, it was discovjBred, all at once, to be covered with
a dense Cloud of smoke, which continued to enlarge, and
14 '' ' '
1
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322
OREGON TERRITORY.
i.' 4
III "
move off, in dense masses, to the eastward, and filling
the heavens in that direction, presented an appearance
like that occasioned by a tremendous conflagration,
viewed at a vast distance. When the first volumes of
smoke had passed away, it could be distinctly seen, from
various parts of the country, that an eruption had taken
place on the north side of St. Helen's, a little below the
summit, and from the smoke that continued to issue
from the chasm or crater, it was pronounced to be a
volcano in active operation. When the explosion took
place, the wind was north-west, and on the same day,
and extending from thirty to fifty miles to the south-
east, there fell showers of ashes, or dust, which covered
the ground in some places, so as to admit of its b-^ing
collected in quantities. This last phenomenon has been
of frequent occurrence, and has led many to suppose
that volcanic eruptions are not uncommon in this coun-
try.
St. Helen's is the most regular in its form and the most
beautiful in its appearance of all the snow-capped moun-
tains of Oregon ; and though on the north side of the
Columbia, it belongs to the Cascade range. Mount
Hood, or Mount Washington, as it is sometimes called by ,1
Americans, is on the south side of the Columbia, and
being larger, and more elevated than St. Helen's, presents
a magnificent object, on which the eye can g^\ze without
weariness, from innumerable points more than one hun-
dred miles from its base. But any description of these
gigantic piles of basalt and snow, must fall far below the
reality ; and indeed, the person desiring to realize all the
delightful sensations produced by the scenery of these
mountains, must fix himself on some eminence in the
Wallamette valley, where all of them at once come in
contact with his vision, and he will want no farther
proof that the works of art sink into insignificance, when
compared with the stupendous works of nature.
Descending these mountains to the east, you come
into the valley:, successively, through which the river
"De Shoots,'* John Day's river, the Unatila, and the
Walla- Walla flow, before emptying into the Columbia;
OREGON TERRITORY.
323
and on the north side of the latter river, you come down
into the valley of the north bi-anch of the same river.
On the north, this middle region is comparatively level,
until you approach the northern ridges of the Blue
mountains ; but on the south side there are innumerable
hills between the small rivers already mentioned, «s also
many plains of greater or less extent. As you approach
the Blue mountains on the south, particularly on the
Unatilla and Walla-Walla rivers, the hills disappear, and
you find yourself passing over a beautiful and level
country, about twenty-five or thirty miles broad, on the
farther borders of which rise with indescribable beauty
and grandeur, that range which, from its azure-like ap-
pearance, has been called the " Blue Mountains." This
valley, extending from the Cascade to the Blue moun-
tains, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles broad,
and the traveler in passing through it, meets with a con-
tinued succession of rocks, hills and plains of all dimen-
sions, but generally he is well pleased with the face of
the country.
The Blue mountains are steep and rocky, and many of
them also volcanic. Some are covered with perpetual
snow.
They run nearly parallel with the Cascade mountains,
though at the south branches of them intersect the latter
range. They are about midway between the Pacific
ocean and the Rocky mountains.
The face of the country east of the Blue mountains
is, if possible, more varied than it is west. The southern
part of this third region, or upper country, so far as its
surface is concerned, is distinguished by its steep and
rugged mountains, deep and dismal valleys, called holeSy
by mountaineers, and wide granite plains. It wears a
forbidding aspect. But the north part is less objectiona-
ble in its features. The plains are more extensive, the
mountains less precipitous, and the valleys not so gloomy.
Many portions of this upper region are volcanic, and
some oi the volcanoes are in constant action.
On the eastern limits of this region, rise the towering
Bummits of the Rocky mountains, which form at once
'I
824
ORfiGON TERItlTORY.
i
m
H
the eastern boundary of Oregon, and are every way
worthy to separate the waters of the Atlantic ocean
from those of the Pacific. In fine, so far as the external
appearance of this country is concerned, in contem-
plating its distinguished features, one is brought to the
conclusion that there is nothing in all the descriptions of
European or Oriental scenery, that surpasses that of this
interesting country.
The rivers of Oregon form the next distinguishing
trait of the country to be described. These are princi-
pally embraced in the Columbia and its tributaries.
This majestic river, which drains nearly the whole of
Oregon, like most of the large rivers of North America,
is supplied from the inexhaustible reservoirs of the Rocky
mountains. Some of the more important confluents of
this river require to be particularly noticed.
The most northerly branch of the Columbia is Canoe
river, which rises near the fifty-fourth degree of latitude,
and after running about one hundred miles in a southerly
direction, unites with two others, one of which rises in a
tremendous gorge of the Rocky mountains, under the
fifty- third parallel, and the other flows from the south
about two hundred miles along the base of the moun-
tains. A traveler, in describing this gorge, says : " The
country around our encampment presented the wildest
and most terrific appearance of desolation. The sun,
shining on a range of stupendous glaciers, threw a chill-
ing brightness over the chaotic mass of rocks, ice and
snow, by which we were environed. Close to our en-
campment one gigantic mountain of conical form towered
majestically into the clouds far above the others, while
at intervals the interest of the scene was heightened by
the rumbling noise of a descending avalanche."
The mountain here referred to, is supposed to be the
highest point of land in North America. The south
river, being the largest of the three, is entitled to be
called the Columbia, to its rise, which takes place in a
small lake situated in the mountains, nearly under the
fiftieth parallel of north latitude. After the junction of
the three, the Columbia pursues a course nearly due
m..i
OREGON TERRITORY.
325
south, for two hundred miles, receiving a number of
small rivers in its passage, and then unites its waters
with thoae of the Mc Gillinroy and the Clark ivers,
both of which come rushing down from the Rocky
mountains, to swell its increasing tide. The Clark takes
its rise near the sources of the Missouri, and, in its pas-
sage to the. Columbia, receives a number of smaller
streams. This river rushes into the Columbia down a
ledge of rocks, and the latter, in its passage through
the Blue mountains, immediately after the junction,
fdrms the Kittle Falls. From this point the river takes
nearly a western course, one hundred miles, where it
takes in the Okanagan from the north, having previously
received the Spokan from the south and east. At this
point the river makes another bend, and taking a due
south course about one hundred and fifty miles, to the
forty-sixth degree of north latitude, unites with its great
southern branch, called the " Snake, or Levns River."
This stream takes its rise in the Rocky and Snowy
mountains, near the sources of the Colorado, the Piatt,
the Yellow Stone, and the Missouri rivers. It first takes
a western course about two hundred miles, thence north-
west about two hundred and fifty, to its junction with its
kindred branch from the north. It passes through the
Blue mountains, forming the Salmon Falls, and receives,
in its course, the Henry, Melac ,, Wapicacoos, the Koos-
kooske, or Salmon river, and a number of other streams.
Below the junction of these two great branches, the
Columbia receives, on the south, the Walla Walla, Una-
tilla, John Day's river, and the De Shoots, or Falls
river ; and, after shooting itself through the Dalls, or
Narrows, where it becomes compressed to about one
hundred and fifty feet wide, and in passing through the
narrow chasm, forms, at some stages, the most frightful
whirlpools, it glides gently and smoothly onward about
forty miles, and then throws itself through a terrific
chasm, which its accumulatod waters have torn in the
mountains, and rushing down a ledge of rocks, forms the
beautiful cascades.
Above the Dalls, the river, in many places, is very
mm
826
OREGON TERRITORY.
'm
ill If
^'
„f-i
rapid, and in one place, a short distance from the De
Shoots, in low water, there is a perpendicular fall of
several feet. But, when the river is high, the water sets
back from the narrows below, so as to admit of the
Eassage of boats up and down. The Cascades cannot,
owever, be run with boats either in high water or low.
Many a poor voyager in the service of the Hudson's
Bay Company, both at the Cascades and tlie Dalls, has
lost his hfe in attempting to navigate these treacherous
waters, A boat filled with American emigrants,, in at-
tempting to run the Dalls last fall, was drawn down
in one of the tremendous whirlpools, and, though the
shore was lined with people, two or three persons sunk
and perished before their eyes.
Below the Cascades the river continues rapid a few
miles, but soon becomes effected by the tide. The dis-
tance from the Cascades to the Pacific, is about one
hundred and forty miles, and the river is navigable for
vessds drawing fourteen feet, nearly the whole distance.
The rivers which fall into the Columbia below the Cas-
cades are, the Quicksand and the Wallamette, on the
south, and the Cowilitz on the north. The Wallamette
takes its rise in the Cascade mountains, and in that range
of high lands which border the Pacific ocean. In pass-
ing up the Wallamette from its mouth, the first branch
of importance you discover, is the Clakamas, on the east
or left-hand side, as you go up the stream, and twenty-
four miles from the upper mouth of the Wallamette.
This river rises in Mount Hood, and passes through a
rough country ; though there is occasionally a fine plain
on its banks. One mile above the mouth of Clakamas
is the Wallamette falls.
Here the river rushes over a precipice of rocks thirty
feet perpendicular in low water.
But the river below the falls often rises so high that
there are but from six to ten feet perpendicular falls.
This is a most beautiful cataract, and the hydraulic pri-
vileges which it affords, and which are beginning to be
extensively used, are almost boundless.
Two miles above the falls you come to the mouth of
OREGON TERRITORY.
327
le mouth of
the Tuality, which comes into the Wallamette from the
west, or on the right-hand as you ascend the river.
This river rises in the high lands towards the coast, in a
number of httle streams which water the beautiful and
somewhat extensive plains, which are called " The Tu-
ality Plains."
This river, though small, will ultimately be of con-
siderable importance to the country, as it can easily
be made navigable for boats far into the plains, and some
of the smaller branches, thirty and forty miles from the
Wallamette, may be advantageously used for the pur-
pose of driving cfifrerent kinds of machinery. Ten miles
above the Tuality you arrive at the mouth of the Molala
and Harchauke rivers. These two unite but a short
distance before they empty into the Wallamette. The
Molala rises in the Cascade mountains, but the source
of the Harchauke is in a lake situated midway between
the Wallamette river and the base of that range. They
both water extensive and beautiful plains, in their ser-
pentine course to the Wallamette. ,,,,.,,,? . ,. ^ ..;r,.i<
Fifteen miles above these rivers, you come to the
mouth of the Yamhill, which rises in the Kilemook hills
towards the ocean and, after meandering for thirty or
forty miles through one of the most beautiful portions
of the Wallamette valley, and, with its tributaries
watering the extended plains through which it flows, it
rushes down a ledge of rocks a few feet, forming a
beautiful cascade, and hastens to mingle its waters with
those of the Wallamette. Proceeding up the stream,
and passing a number of small ones on each side, after
going twenty-two miles, you arrive at what is called
Mill Creek, which comes into the Wallamette from the
south-east. It is a small stream, but from its flowing
through a beautiful, excellent and central portion of the
valley, and aflbrding some very fine water-privileges, it
is regarded as being a very important branch of the
Wallamette.
Six miles above this comes in the Rickreal, from the
west, which can also boast of its priviliges for milling
operations, and of watering a splendid portion of the
country.
1
828
oneoON TGRlilTORV.
^%
-iV
}■?'
mi) -^'•Ks
*'* Eight or ten miles above the Rickreal, comes dancing
down into the Wallamette, from the east, the "Santa
Arn*8 Fork," being fed by the numerous rivulets vrhich
rise in the Cascade range. This is a very considerable
stream, and from the facilities which it oners for water
power, and from the nature of the country through
which it flows, may be regarded as second in importance
to none of the tributaries of the Wallamette.
Above this, as far as you are disposed to advance, the
tributaries of the Wallamette are numerous on each
side, but resembling those already described in their
sources, dimensions and importance, e.z well as in the
nature of the country through which they flow, do not
require to be separately considered.
The principal branch of the Wallamette rises in a
snow-clad mountain, called, by British fur traders,
" Mount McLaughlin," but by Mr. Kelly, an American
citizen, " Mount Madison." Its general course is north,
and after running about two hundred and fifty miles, it
divides, and forming a long narrow Island, called Wap-
pato Island, the upper channel empties into the Colum-
bia six miles below Fort Vancouver, and ninety miles
from the Pacific ocean, and the lower channel, eighteen
miles below the upper mouth. It has been generally
supposed that the Wallamette river runs through a flat,
sunken country, and is therefore a sluggish and muddy
stream, than which nothing can be more erroneous.
True, from its union with the Columbia, for fifteen miles
up, it bears that character, but above this, the general
velocity of the current is from three to six miles an
hour, and its bed is either gravel, rock, or sand ; while
nothing can exceed the cleanliness and beauty of its
shores. It is navigable for vessels drawing twelve feet,
fifteen miles above its upper mouth, and for steamboats
quite up to the Falls. A great portion of the year it is
navigable for light steamboats, for fifty or sixty miles
above the Falls. In fine, the Wallamette, with its nu-
merous tributaries, arising from its susceptibilities of
navigation, its boundless water privileges, the extent,
beauty, and amazing resources of the country which it
OREGON TERRITORY.
329
UiiiiVflS'n V.
waters, may be considered as the most interesting and
important tributary of the Columbia.
This great artery of Oregon, twelve miles below the
lower mouth of the Wallamette, receives the Cowilitz
from the north, the last river of any magnitude, which
contributes to swell its mighty flood, till it reaches the
Pacific ocean. The Cowilitz rises in Mount St. Helen's,
and in its passage to the Columbia, flows, in a rapid cur-
rent, through a valley of considerable farming impor-
tance.
Thet.Columbia below the Cascades, and after having
swallowed up all its important tributaries, is from one
mile to a mile and a half in width, until you reach to
within twenty-five miles of the ocean. Here it opens to
the width of four or five miles, forming, on the south
shore. Swan Bay. In this bay, or rather broad space of
the river, are a number of low sandy islands already
formed, while others appear to be forming in various
places. At the foot of this bay, is Tongue Point, which
is a high rocky promontory extending into the river from
the south shore. From this point to the high bluff* on
the north shore, the river is six miles wide. Here the
ship channel runs nearly straight across the river, and it
generally requires, from the shallowness and intricacy
of the channel, two or three days to pass through it.
Below Tongue point, the river again widens to eight or
ten miles, and a deep indentation on the north shore, and
above Chenook point, is called " Gray's Bay," and nearly
opposite and between Tongue point and George's point,
and ten miles from the mouth, is the harbor of Astoria.
Between the latter point and Point Adams, is Young's
Bay, which extends some ways back inland, and receives
a river called Lewis' and Clark's river. This is a beautiful
bay, about five miles broad, and the ship channel passes
directly across its mouth. After swelling out and form-
ing the two bays above described, the river becomes
again contracted* so that from Point Adams to Chenook
point, it is only five miles wide. On the north side,
between Chenook point and Cape Disappointment, is
Baker's Bay, which, being sheltered from the winds by
14*
i
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330
OREGON TERRITORY.
I >
t
the high lands and timber which surround it, is a safe
and comfortable harbor. The distance from Point Adams
to Cape Disappointment is six miles.
From the former is a channel which runs straight into
the ocean in nearly a south-west direction, and no where
less than thirty feet deep and one third of a mile wide.
But the channel generallv us^d, both for ingress and
egress, turns north-west from Young's Bay, and passing
round on the north-east siJe of Sand Island, which lies
in the mouth of the river between the two Capes, takes
a sweep around, close under Cape Disappointment, and
thence m a southerly direction about three miles, where
it unites with the south channel, and thus becoming
one, their course across the last and most formidable bar
of the Columbia, is south-west by west. Between the
two channels there is an extensive bar, or island of sand,
which is bare at low water, but the two channels to-
gether encompass this on all sides.
From Point Adams and from the shore around, and a
little to the west of Cape Disappointment, and converg-
ing towards each other, proceed those two large sand-
bars, which, meeting at the distance of four miles from
each point, form that fearful obstacle to the navigation
of these waters — the Bar of the Columbia. The chan-
nel across this bar is five fathoms deep and a half of a
mile wide. When the wind is high from the south and
west, the waves of the Pacific and the torrents of the
Columbia meet upon this bar with the most terrific
violence, producing a line of breakers, often extending
from one point to the other, and calculated from their
frightful appearance to appal even the heart of a storm-
beaten sailor. Vessels bound tp the Columbia have
often been obliged to lie oflf and on at this point, for
weeks in succession, before an opportunity offered for
them to cross the bar. And on desiring to leave, they
have sometimes been under the necessity of lying snug
under the lee of Cape Disappointment for fifty or sixty
days, the passage out meanwhile being continually block-
ed up by these formidable breakers. This, however, is
not the case, except in the winter or spring.
■
OREGON TERRITORY.
881
Doubtless there are rivers in the world which afford a
greater variety of fish, than this, but perhaps there are
none that supply greater quantities. Sturgeon are
caught in abundance, but salmon is the principal fish.
Of these there are various kinds, but in this country they
are generally distinguished by the natnes spring-salmon
and fall-salmon. They literally fill the rivers of Oregon,
in their season. And at all the falls and cascades in the
various rivers of the country, the quantities taken and that
might be taken, are beyond all calculation. As they pene*
trate far into the interior, they afford almost inexhaustible
supplies to the Indian tribes of the country, as well as the
whites, many of whom depend almost entirely upon such
supplies, for the first year, after settling in the country.
The Umpqua and Clameth rivers both rise in the Cascade
range, and both empty into the Pacific ocean. They both
pass through beautiful and extensive valleys, but toward
the coast, are hemmed in by mountains of rock.
They afford also abundant supplies of salmon, which
are caught at the Falls and Cascades. At the mouth of
the Umpqua is a harbor into which small vessels ma^
enter in safety, wind and tide favoring. This river 18
navigable for small steamboats twenty-five miles from
its mouth.
The timber of Oregon is not of a great variety. The
only forests are those composed of fir. This kind of
timber abounds on the Columbia, for one hundred and
fifty miles from its mouth, among the mountains that
border the Pacific, or the lower parts of the Umpqua
and Clameth rivers, in various parts of the Wallamette
valley, and along the base, on both sides of the Cascade
mountains. This timber, in various parts of the country,
grows to an almost incredible size. It is no uncommon
thing to find trees from twenty-four to thirty-six feet in
circumference, and three hundred feet high. One was
measured near Astoria or Fort George, and was forty-
six feet in circumference, ten feet from the ground.
This tree has been cut down, but the writer has ex-
amined the stump and is certain that the tree has not
332
QRGQON TERRITORY.
f. ■!
hK
been misrepresented. If possible, on the Umpqua river,
the fir grows longer than on the Columbia. Here, as
also in some parts of the Wallamette valley, the forests
are truly magnificent.
This 18 the principal timber used in the country, both
for framing, joinery and fencing purposes. Cargoes of
it are shipped annually to the Sandwich Islands, where
it finds a ready market at t; high price. Besides this,
there is a species of the yellow pine, which, however, is
not of a very excellent quality, nor does it grow in great
abundance. The oak is quite plenty in the Wallamette
and the Umpqua valleys, and is considered, next to the
fir, the most valuable timber in the country.
In the upper parts of the Wallamette and Umpqua
valleys, timber is very scarce, and if these portions are
ever settled, as doubtless will be the case, building and
fencing materials will be brought from the surrounding
mountains, a few miles distant. Along the rivers of this
lower country may also be found, in considerable quan-
tities, the cotton-wood, alder, ash, willow, dog-wood,
and white maple. The laurel is also indigenous to the
country, and cedar of an inferior quality, abounds in
some places.
Beside these, there is a variety of shrubbery, among
which are the service-berry, crab-apple, hazle-nut, and
swamp maple. In the middle region, or between the
Cascade and Blue mountains, timber is very scarce ; the
trees are generally small, and of soft, useless woods, such
as cotton-wood, sumach and willow, and found only in
the neighborhood of the streams. In the Blue mountains
are found quantities of pine, which, in the event of the
settlement of the beautiful valleys of the middle country,
may be rafted down the rivers, which pass through the
mountains, to almost any point below, which, indeed is
already done on the Clear Water and Walla Walla
But many parts of the country, and particularly
nvers.
of the middle region, must forever remain destitute of
timber, and if ever occupied by any people except sava-
ges, substitutes for building and foncing purposes must
OREGON TERRITORY.
888
take the place of the fine fir, oak, pine and ash of the
lower country. This scarcity of timber is quite a draw-
back on many portions of the country.
The climate of Oregon varies materially as you pro-
ceed from the coast into the interior. To a proper
understanding of the nature of the climate of this coun-
try, it is necessary to consider the winter and the sum'
mer separately and somewhat particularly. The winds
which prevail here, as in every other part of Oregon in
the winter, are from the south and east, sometimes
veering to the south-west. There is no definite period
in the fall when these winds commence blowing, but the
different seasons vary much in this respect. Sometimes
we have a touch oi them, about the twentieth of Sep-
tember, but this is regarded only as a timely monition of
what we are subsequently to realize. Some seasons these
winds set in for good about the tenth or fifteenth of Octo-
ber, but others, they do not come till late in November.
It is impossible to calculate precisely when they will
begin to blow, or, in other words, when an Oregon win-
ter will decidedly set in. The commencement may be
considered as ranging from the first of October to the
first of January ; and the medium is about the middle of
November. Sometimes ^hey come on gradually, but
some seasons they burst upon the country at once, and
with the violence of a thunder storm. These winds
always bring with them continued falls of rain ; and
therefore the period of their continuance is properly
called the rainy season.
Along the Pacific coast these storms are more violent
and the rains more abundant than they are in the Walla-
tnette valley. When fully set in, these rains ffenerally
continue, with occasionally a very short interval, for two
or three months, and sometimes four, after which there
usually a month of warm, pleasant weather. This
18
comes sometimes in February, sometimes in March, but
is generally followed by three or four weeks of cold,
chilly rains, from the south and west. During the latter
part of winter, there are generally light falls of snow
throughout the country, though in the valleys and particu-
it i
^ I
884
OREGON TERRITORY.
1
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A
larly in the Wallamette valley, it seldom falls to more
than two or three inches deep.
Though the winters are aisagreeable on account of
the chilliness of the south-east winds, and the extreme
humidity of the atmosphere, yet the cold is very mode-
rate, the mercury seldom falling as low as freezing point.
As a matter of course, the ground is seldom frozen, and
therefore ploughing may be ^^'^ne a great portion of the
winter. Occasionally, however, there is an exception to
this. At one time the mercu^'y fell in this valley to five
degrees below zero, and at the Dalls, on the west side
of the Cascade mountains, fifteen degrees. As this
weather lasted for several days, the lakes were all frozen,
so that cattle and horses could pass over them on the ice,
and the Columbia river was bridged with it as far down
as the mouth of the Wallamette, for twelve or fifteen
days. But this was principally in consequence of the
extreme cold above the Cascades, and the accumulation
of ice in that region. A similar circumstance occurred
in 1834.
Considerable snow falls every year in the region of the
Cascade mountains and around the Dalls on the Colum-
bia. In the middle region, or from the Cascade to the
Blue mountains, the rains begin later in the year, are less
constant and heavy, and do not continue so late in the
spring as in the lower country. In the latter they begin
to taper off, generally, in the month of March, but con-
tinue more or less through the month of April.
It will be inferred from what has been said, that
there is quite a difference in the winters of Oregon.
Some are vastly more rainy than others. The winters
of 1844 and 1845 commenced with a storm on the
twelfth day of October, and continued with a storm of
great and uniform violence through the months of No-
vember, December, January and February ; then taking
a respite for three weeks in the month of March, it
closed with a storm, which continued through the month
of April. But one-half of the winters in Oregon are not
characterized by as much falling weather as is frequently
experienced in the State of New York, and are. in con-
OREGON TERRITORY.
385
ills to more
1 are. in con-
sequence of their warmness, decidedly pleasant. It will
be understood that none of the winters of this country
are so stormy or so cold, but that cattle and horses, with
all other animals in the country, subsist on no other feed
than is found on the open prairies. In the upper country,
or in that portion which lies immediately west of the
Rocky mountains, it seldom rains, except in the spring,
and then it is not protracted. But vast quantities of
snow fall in the winter, particularly on the mountains.
This part of Oregon is extremely dry, which, with the
vast difference in temperature between the day and the
night, forms its most remarkable trait, at least so far as
climate is concerned. Between sunrise and noon there
is a difference of from forty to sixty degrees of Fahren-
heit.
If the winters of Oregon are rather stormy and un-
pleasant, the summers are* sufficiently delightful to coun-
terbalance all this. In the months df March and April,
the weather usually becomes sufficiently warm to start
vegetation, so that thus early the prairies become beauti-
fully green, and many of Flora's choicest gifts appear to
herttld the approach of summer. But the summer winds
do not generally prevail until the first of May. These
are from the west and north, and there is seldom any
pleasant weather except when they prevail. And after
a long and rainy winter, the people of this country look
for the cool and healthy breeze from the bosom of the
Pacific ocean with great solicitude. At length the wished
for change takes place ; the howl of the storm and the
roar of the southern winds, are hushed to silence ; the
hills and valleys are gently fanned by the western zephyr ;
and the sun, pouring his floods of light from a cloudless
sky, causes nature, as by enchantment, to enrobe her-
self in all the glories of summer. The delightful weather
thus ushered in, continues with but little variation, through
the entire summer. iV-.
There are, however, some showers, but they are
much " like angels' visit's, few and far between." Gene-
rally in the months of July, August and September, the
ground becomes exceedingly dry. But the few rains
-r
336
ORBOON TERRITORY.
I' > 'M
that fall in May and June, with the moisture which is
deposited in the heavy dews of the valleys, serve to
bring the grains and vegetables to maturity. The
temperature of the summer rang^ from sixty-five to
eighty degrees at noon, in the shade, but the evenings
are much cooler. There are few nights through the
summer, in which a person would be too warm, covered
with two quilts and a flannel blanket. The cool evenings,
however, are very pleasant, and doubtless go far to neu-
tralize the effects oi the malaria that is exhaled through
the influence of the sun, from the swamp and marshy
places, which are found in various parts of the country.
From a personal experience of more than five years,
and from an extensive observation in reference to this
particular, the writer is prepared to express the opinion
that the climate of Oregon, not excepting the Walla-
mette valley, is decidedly f;fvorable to health. And
why should it not be] The temperature, particularly
in this lower country, is remarkably uniform. This
country is not subject to the evils resulting from sudden
changes from extreme heat to extreme cold, as in some
parts of the States. The exhilarating ocean breeze,
which sets in almost every day during the summer, con-
tributes greatly to purify the atmosphere. These cir-
cumstances, connected with the fact that there is but
little decaying vegetable matter in the country, and but
few dead swamps and marshes to send forth their poi-
sonous miasma to infect the surrounding regions, are
sufficient to show that this country must be the abode of
health, and that human life is as likely to be protracted,
and men as likely to die with old age in this country as
in almost any other in the world. True, the Indians are
generally diseased, and are fast dying off, but their dis-
eases have not been generated in this country ; they are
the result of their connection with diseased and dissi-
pated foreigners. Formerly it was not so. Besides this,
the ague and fever, which attacks many of the whites
who come to settle in the Wallamette valley, is easily
controlled, and finally leaves the person with a vigorous,
unimpaired constitution, and seldom recurs to them the
ORfiOdN TfiRRITOftV.
^3t
second season. The persons in this country who appear
to be the most healthy, are those who have been nere
the greatest length; <>f time.
The members o¥ the Hudson's Bay' Company gene-
rally present, in the fullness and fhisnness of their fea-
tares, the corpulency of their persons, and their sinewy
and robust limbs, the most satisfactory evidence that the
climate of Oregon must be friendly' to the promotion of
health. Indeed, but very few white persons have sick-
ened and died in this country since Us first occupancy
by such, more than thirty years ago. Though these are
the facts in reference to the health of the lower country,
even yet there are persons in the States who are ready
to publish far and near, that the climate of Oregon, and
particularly of the Wallamette valley, is "decidedly
unhealthy," that "the most mali^ant and fatal fevers
rage in the country ;" than -which, no representation
could be more erroneous.
It will be readily perceived from these i'eihai'lc^, that
this climate is well calculated for wheat, barley, oats,
peas, apples, potatoes, turnips, and all other vegetables
which are cultivated in the Middle States. Indian corn,
however, does not succeed very well, though some years
considerable is raised. The country is exceedingly favo-
rable for the raising of horses, cattle and hogs, all of
which thrive and multiply beyond all conception.
If there is any difference in regard to health between
the different portions of Oregon, probably the middle
region, and immediately along the coast, are the most
healthy parts. **^ ^:^ "''■''^] i^v. . .r.-^ .
The* climate of the Wallamette valley is more favora-
ble to agriculture than any other portion of the country ;
but that of the middle region is every way adapted to
purposes of grazing and to all the pursuits of a pastoral
life.
But with a uniform healthy and delightful climate,
that is as well adapted to agricultural purposes as any
within the same degrees of latitude in any part of the
earth, Oregon loses much of its interest, if the fertility of
the soil is not in keeping with the nature of the climate.
338
OREGON TERRITORY.
i^iff
The soil of Oregon has been variously represented by
persons who have traveled through the country. Some
have spoken of it in altogether too favorable a light, while
others have greatly underrated it. Some have placed it
among the nrst in the world ia point of fertility, and
others have considered Oregon as a boundless desert, fit
only to be the habitation of wild beasts and savage tribes.
Some have viewed it as a second Eden, and others, one
writer in particular, denounces it as a "God-forsaken
country that never was designed to be the habitation of
a Christian or civilized man. These conflicting repre-
sentations arise doubtless from a superficial acquaintance
with the country. They have either not continued in
the country a sufficient length of time to become ac-
quainted with its real productiveness, or they have de-
pended upon that information which has been artfully
designed to prevent the ti:ue nature of the country from
being known.
To a proper understanding of the nature and produc-
tiveness of the soil, it will be necessary to consider it as
it appears in different portions of the country. As the
Clatsop Plains are exciting considerable interest at the
present time in the country, • a description of them, with
a view to the examination of the soil, is desirable. These
plains lie on the south side of the mouth of the Columbia
river, back of that point of land which is known by the
name of Point Adams. They are a portion of that low
tract of country which lies in the form of a triangle, one
of whose sides is washed by the waves of the Pacific,
and the other by those of Young's Bay ; while its base
rests against the range of mountains extending back from
Kellimook Head, and its point or apex is washed by
the south channel of the Columbia. The height of this
triangle, or the distance from Point Adams back to the
mountains, is about twenty-five miles, while the mean
width is probably not more than four miles. The plains
themselves are about twenty miles long and from one to
two and a half broad. They contain about forty square
miles. They lie directly on the shore of the Pacific, and
commUnd a fine view of*^ all the ships that pass over the
.*e" 5
OREGON TERRITORY.
380
bar of the Columbia. There is a beautiful sand-beach
extending their entire length, which, at low water, forms
a firm and commodious road. Between the plains and
Young's Bay, there is a tract of timber land, comprising
about twice as much as the plains, but similar in every
other respect, except the dense forest of fir, spruce,
pine, cedar, hemlock and alder, by which it is shaded.
It is quite probable that the entire tract of land above
described, has been formed by the vast quantities of
sands and vegetable substances which have been con-
veyed from time immemorial, by the Columbia river to
the ocean, and deposited by the ceaseless action of tide.
The evidences of this are, firsts the fact that the soil is
of the same alluvial character that appears on the banks
of the river above ; secondly, from tne several ridges,
or undulations, which curve precisely with the shore of
the ocean, and all of which appear to have successively
formed the boundary of the deep; and, thirdly, from
the fact, that shells and othe marine substances are
found deeply embedded in the sands thus deposited, in a
perifect state of petrifaction. But it is only necessary
for a man to walk up from tide-water to the ridge near-
est the ocean, and cast his eye over the gentle undula-
tions of this tract, for him to become convinced that it
has been redeemed from the waters of the Pacific.
These remarks have been deemed important, in order
to show the true nature of the soil of this important
point of Oregon.
It will be perceived that the foundation of the soil is
sand. In some places this sand is bare, but even here,
where the winds admit of vegetation taking root, its
growth shows clearly that this sand is far from being
destitute of vegetative properties. On the plains, how-
ever, this sand is covered with a black mould, which is
from six to ten inches deep, and which doubtless has been
formed by the constant decay of the various kinds of
vegetation, which here grow in abundance. This black
mould, with a portion of the sand beneath, forms a rich
and productive soil, which, from its proximity to the
ocean, and perhaps from the nature of the soil itself, is
J'
840
ORGGON TERRITORY*
•It
not so well adapted to wheat, but produces potatoes;
turnips, and indeed all kinds of vegetables in abundance.
It is also tolerably tvcU adapted to the raisins of pead
and oats. Cattle, horses and hogs thrive on this soil hs
well as in any part of Oregon.
The bottom-landj of the Columbia, from the Cascades
to the ocean, are subject to an annual inundation from
the great rise of the river, occasioned by the melting of
the vast quantities of snow, which fall on its upper
branches among the mountains. This flood continues
through the month of June and into July, so that whatever
may be the fertility of the land thus overflown, but small
portions of it, without immense labor and expense, will
ever be brought to contribute greatly to the support of
man. However, those portions of it which lie above
high water, are remarkably fertile^ and produce in abun-
dance, all the graincf and vegetables common to the best
portions of the country. Fort Vancouver is situated on
the most choice portion of this tract, and here a farm of
two or three thousand acres is cultivated, and produces
annually several thousand bushels of grain. Here also
apples, pears and peaches are cultivated successfully;
with care the grape also is brought to a degree of per-
fection.
The uplands, or timbered lands, differ in some respects
from the prairies. Though but few attempts have been
made to cultivate them, yet sufficient has been done to
prove that the soil is rather of a superior quality. And,
mdeed, this is attested by the immense ^owth of timber
itself. No inferior soil could send forth those enormous
trunks, which, in their upward progress, spread their
magnificent branches to the skies, and often place their
heads three hundred feet from the ground. Though the
cost of clearing these lands is great, yet time will doubt-
less cause the richness and fertility of this soil to contri-
bute to the support of its future cultivators.
The soil of the country around Puget's Sound is of a
very different character. The country to appearance
is beautiful. The prairies are extensive ; the narbor is
fine, and the scenery delightful ; but, strictly speaking
OREGON TfiRRlTORV.
34J
ose enormous
there is no soil to the country. The prairies are all
composed of shingle land^ or small stone, or gravel, with-
out scarcely any mixture of soil. Indeed, £ere are but
few places, and these are very small spots, where any
thing can be raised. Attempts have been made to redeem
it from its native barrenness, but as yet all have failed.
The Hudson's Bay Company transported some of their
surplus population at Red river, on the east side of the
Rocky mountains, to this region ; but, in consequence of
the amazing sterility of the country, they soon became
discouraged, and, contrary to the wishes of the Company,
they have abandoned the place and have settled else-
where. This is sufficient to show the nature of the soil
in this portion of the country. And in view of these facts,
how has it come to pass that some persons after having
visited this region, publish it as bein^ distinguished alike
for the salubrity of its climate and the fertility of its
soil] The climate indeed is delightful, but the soil is
exceedingly forbidding, and cannot, perhaps, be re-
covered from its extreme barrenness.
Of all the different parts of Oregon, it is unquestionable
that the Wallamette valley is entitled to be called the
garden of the country, so far as the fertility of its soil is
concerned. The close observer, in traveling through
this valley, will discover several kinds of soil. On the
lower, or first bottoms, in some places, a sandy soil
appears, in others, a kind of black marl^or loam. There
is but little difference in the productiveness of the two
kinds. They both appear to be the alluvial deposits of
the Wallamette river. On the second bottoms, or high
prairies, as ihey are called in the country, the soil is a
dark loamy clay, and is equally as strong and fertile as
that on the lower grounds. Higher up the river, in the
region of the Santa Arn's fork, and embracing tracts of
considerable extent, you come to a gravelly soil, which
is less productive than any other in the valley. How-
ever, tms last embraces but a small proportion of the
valley. As the most of the country is embraced in the
high prairies, there is much more of the clayey land than
pf any other kind. But tl^e goodness of th^e soil is bett^ir
.ill
342
OREGON TERRlTOltY.
ascertained by examining the crops which are annually
taken from tne land.
The writer of this has formerly resided, for years
together, in the great wheat growing country of the State
of New York, and has been an attentive observer of the
amount of labor necessary to be performed to put into
the granary the wheat raised from an acre of ground.
He has also, for several succeeding years, observed the
same in the Wallamette valley ; and the result of these
observations has brought him to the conclusion, that it
requires less labor in this country to raise one bushel or
a thousand bushels of wheat, than it does on any part
of the Genesee flats. The prairies of this country, in
many important respects, are unlike those of any other
country. They are naturally very mellow, and appear,
as one is passing over them, as though it had been but a
year or two since they were cultivated. They are not
swarded over with a thick strong turf, as in the Western
States. They can be easily ploughed with one good
span of horses the first time, and whea thus plou^ed,
they are ready to receive the seed, and seldom fail, even
the first crop, of yielding from fifteen to twenty-five
bushels per Englisn acte. The first crops are never so
^ood as the succeeding ones. Farmers nave, in a num-
ber of instances, without using any extraordinary means,
taken from fifty to sixty-five bushels of wheat from an
acre, and this has been an average of fields containing
from ten to fifteen acres. But this is, by no means, the
common yield after the first crop, though, doubtless, if
farmers in this country would cultivate less ground and
bestow on it the same quantity of labor, tney would
realize much more from the acre than they now do.
Under the present system of cultivation in this country,
the average amount taken from the acre is in the vicinity
of t\venty-five bushels.
Unlike any other portions of the world, a good crop
of wheat, provided tne seed is put into the ground in its
season and in a proper manner, is as sure to reward the
labor of the husbandman, as that day and night will con-
tinue until harvest time. This, perhaps, is not owing so
OREGON TERRITORY.
348
much to the quality of the soil, as to the nature of the
climate. And it is difficult to conceive of any circum-
stance that can prevent this result, so long as the present
laws of nature, which reculate the seasons of Oregon,
are allowed to operate. But this is not the case with
regard to all other crops. '^^ ^*i **
Potatoes frequently fail from a want of rain the latter
part of the season ; or, if they do not entirely fail, the
crops are often very light.
This is the case with all spring crops, particularly if
the seed is put in late. Thev are liable to suffer from
drought before they ripen in the fall. However, during
the last five years, there has not been a failure in any
of the crops. Some years have not been as productive
as others, in the spring' crops, but a majority of the
years, these have all succeeded to admiration, with the
exception of Indian com. This valuable species of pro-
duce will never be raised, to any considerable extent, in
this country, though some seasons it succeeds tolerably
well. The cool nights and dry summers are obstacles
that it cannot oveicomc. The soil of this valley as well
as the climate, is well adapted to the raising of*^ melons,
squashes, cucumbers, beets, cabbages, and all kinds of
garden vegetables. Apples, peaches, and other kindi
of fruit, flourish, so far as they have been cultivated ;
and from present appearances, it is quite likelv that the
time is not far distant, when the country will be well
supplied with the various kinds of fruit which grow in
the JVf iddle States.
The soil of the middle region of Oregon differs mate-
rially from that of the low country. It bears one
general character, and consists of a yellow sandy clay.
It produces naturally a kind of bunch grass, which is
very ni^tritious, and grows in abundance on the vast
plains of the country ; and here are also a variety of
small shrubs, and the prickly pear. Persons in passing
through the country alon^ the banks of the Columbia
river, are Uable to entertain erroneous views, in refer-
ence to the fertility of this region. The land along the
river, is a collection of sand and rocks, than which
844
UR/^OPjV TERRITORY.
I
n\
J!. ■
nothing can present a more sterile appearance. But
back a few miles, the country wears a different aspect.
And judging from the grass and herbage, which cover
the eround, as well as from the appearance of the soil,
the land may be pronounced at least as tolerably good.
It is on the extended plains of this region that the
Kayuses and Nez Perces raise their immense droves of
horses. It is no uncommon thing for one Indian to own
fifteen hundred of these animals. The writer once had
the privilege of seeing at least two thousand from one
eminence. And yet this portion of Oregon has been
called " a barren waste ; an error which a correct
knowledge of the country will certainly correct.
It may be therefore concluded, as it has been already
expressed, that, from the fertility of the soil of this
region, as well as the salubrity of the climate, as a
whole, it is most admirably adapted to purposes of
grazing, while on many of the streams agricultural pur-
suits might successfully be prosecuted.
On the Walla Walla and Clear Water rivers, attempts
at farming have been made, and have been crowned
with success.
> The upper region of Oregon, or that part which lies
east of the Blue mountains, is less fertile than the
middle. Though the soil of some portions of it is toler-
ably good, yet much the greater proportion of the plains
are either covered with a course sand or gravel, or are
so strongly impregnated with salts of various kinds, that
it would be periectly useless to make any attempts
at cultivation, though the climate might be ever so
favorable.
What has often been said of Oregon as a whole, may
be said in truth, of this portion of the countrv, namely,
that it is an extensive barren waste, not capaole of sup-
porting more than a very small number of inhabitants ;
but this remark only applies to the thirds or upper region,
of this vast territory. To apply it to that half of Oregon
which extends from the Blue mountains to the Pacific
ocean, would be doing the country great injustice. For,
instead of this being the fact, it is the opinion of those
i*
OREGON TERRITORY.
345
who have been longest in the country, and consequently
know best what its resources are, that this portion is
capable of sustaining as large a population, as all of the
New England States. In fact, the resources of this
country are great ; and it is only necessary for them to
be known, to be duly appreciated by the people of the
United States. A single consideration only is necessary
to be presented to show what the country would be capa-
ble of doing, provided it was filled with an industrious
population. It will be borne in mind that in the fall of
1843, an emigration arrived in this country numbering
from eight to ten hundred persons, most of whom came
80 late that it was impossible for them to get locations
where they could raise wheat the first year, and were
consequently thrown upon the resources of the country.
In the fall of 1844, another emigration arrived, numberinff
from seven to eight hundred persons. These all, with
the entire population, depended upon the products of
1844, for a subsistence until the harvest of 1845. Pro-
bably not more than one quarter of the whole population
had cultivated the land in 1844, ytt they were all sup-
ported from the granaries of the country ; fifteen thou-
sand bushels of wheat were shipped to the Russian
settlements ; one thousand barrels of flour were ex-
ported to the Sandwich Islands, and thousands of bushels
yet remained in the country unconsumed. With these
facts before us, it does not require half an eye to
see that Oregon can and will compete with any other
portion of the world, in supplying the islands of the
racific, the Russian settlements, and every other flour
market contiguous, with their bread stufls, which usually
bear, in ♦hese portions of the world, a handsome
price.
In connection with this it may be remarked that beef
and pork can be raised in this country with greater ease
and facility than wheat. And the climate of the country
being favorable for salting and barreling, the time is not
far distant when these articles also will be exported in
abundance. The United States Navy and shipping in
general in the Pacific, can be supplied with these articles
15
346
OREGON TERRlTORYr
of consumption from this country more reasonably, per-
haps, than from any other. Already there are many
settlers in this valley who have from two to five hundred
head of cattle, and it is nothing strange for a man to be
the owner of a hundred hogs. At present, however,
from the great influx of population, these kinds of pro-
perty bear a high price in the country, but the time may
be anticipated, when the home market will not be so
extensive, and then the vast supplies from this quarter
must find an outlet.
The facilities for lumbering in the country have
already been presented ; and, in addition, it should be
observed that, with the vast amount of salmon which
may be barreled annually, and the products of dairies,
for conducting which the country offers the greatest
facilities, the exports of Oregon, in proportion to the
number of its inhabitants, may equal those of any portions
of the United States.
In this exhibition of the wealth and resources of Ore-
gon, there is one more subject that ought not to be over-
looked, viz: the facility with which a man comparatively
Eoor, can place himself entirely above want. Individuals
ave, in some instances, arrived in this country in the
month of September ; have settled immediately on some
of the fine prairies, and with but little, except good health
and sound limbs, have harsrested, the following season,
of their own sowing, from fifty to one hundred and fifty
acres of wheat.
And, indeed, there are few countries, perhaps none, in
which a poor man, when once he has surmounted the
difiiculties of getting here, in which he can get a better
living, and get it easier, than in this. Such is the testi-
mony of every person who tries it for one or two years.
But every country has its defects, and this is not entirely
free from them. It is neither the garden of Eden, nor
is it a barren desert. It does not " flow with honey,"
like the land of Canaan ; but in some places it literally
flows with milk. And, though it is not a " land of wine,"
yet, in the more necessary articles of " com and oil," it
greatly abounds.
OREOON TERRITORY.
347
That it is a land of mountains and valleys, of rivers
and streams, of miffhty forests and extended prairies, of a
salubrious and hesJthy climate, and a rich and productive
soil, the foregoing remarks will clearly show. In fine,
it is every way entitled to be called a good country.
\i
CHAPTER XVn.
Oregon terrilory — Iti hiitorjr — Spaniah diMOveriea — Measures of the Engliih — Sir
Francis Drake — Heceta — Isle of Orief— Bodega discovere Killemook Head —
Discoveries of Captain James Cook — Captain John Mearls • - Cape Disappoint-
ment — Robert Gray, of Boston — First visit to the coast — Second visit, discovers
the Columbia river — Captain Vancouver— Braughton.
When America was first discovered, it was supposed
to constitute the eastern limits of the continent of Asia ;
but, as discovery succeeded discovery in quick succes-
sion during the first twenty years after the arrival of
Columbus m 1402, the astounding fact that the Genoese
navigator had given to the nations of Europe a vast con-
tinent, was speedily and satisfactorily established. If
there remained any doubts as to the separation of
America from the eastern continent on the minds of any,
they were all removed after Fernando Magellan had
passed from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean through the
strait which separates Patagonia from Terra Del Fuego,
and Vacco Nunez de Balboa had discovered the placid
waters of the great ocean from the top of the Andes, at
the Isthmus of Darien. Within a few years after Magel-
lan sailed into the Pacific ocean, the Spaniards, under
Hernan Cortez, discovered and made a conquest of the
rich and populous empire of Mexico, and soon after fol-
lowed the subjugation of Chili and Peru to the authority
of Spain. The immense amount of silver which the
Spaniards obtained by these conquests, excited the ava-
rice of others, and crowds of adventurers of different
nations and under daring leaders, came over and tra-
versed the new world in every direction, eager to acquire
distinction by plundering the rich countries which they
might discover. Defeated in their objects, they, how-
ORBOON TERRITORY,
840
ever, collected much information respectinff thofe rekione
which otherwise might not have been explored, perhapi,
for centuries.
In 1532, forty years after the discoverv of Columbus,
the coast of the American continent bad been explored
from the Gulf of Mexico on the Atlantic sice, to the
Strait of Magellan, and on the Pacific side from the same
Strait to a place called Culiacan, situate near the eastern
side of the entrance to the Gulf of California. North-
ward of these points, both of which are near the twenty-
third degree of north latitude, nothing as yet was known
of that vast region which was destined to teem with so
many millions of human beings. Up to 1578, the Span-
iards were the principal actors in prosecuting discoveries
along the Pacific coast Expeditions were fitted out by
Cortez and by his successor in the viceroyalty of Mexico,
Don Antonio de Mendoza, which sailed northward from
time to time, touching at various points along the coast,
but making no important discoveries until 1530, when
Francisco de Ulloa, under the direction of Mendoza,
sailed from Acapulco, north, for the purpose of ascertain-
ing the situation and extent of that country which by
this time began to be called California.
Ulloa discovered that California was a continuity of
the American continent ; for up to this time it was not
known whether it was connected with Asia or America,
or whether it was not a country by itself. There is
satisfactory evidence that some of these early explorers
saw the coast up as high as the thirty-fourth degree of
north latitude, and in 1543, a navigator by the name of
Ferrelo, is said to have extended nis discoveries as far
up as the forty-third parallel, and about the same time a
land expedition was fitted out under Hernando de Soto,
and performed a memorable march through the then un-
known regions north of the Gulf of Mexico, till they
reached the fortieth parallel of latitude, and then turning
east, they fell in with the Mississippi river near the
mouth of the Ohio, and descended it m boats back to the
Gulf of Mexico, which they succeeded in crossing in
open boats ; and the few that survived the fatigues and
'i'-i
350
OREGON TERRITORY.
perils of the enterprise, finally reached Pameco in safety.
This expedition had a two-fold object in view, which
was, first, to discover wealthy nations to subjugate like
those of Mexico and Peru, and, second, to ascertain
whether there were no navigable passages between the
Atlantic and Pacific oceans, somewhere north of the
Mexican Gulf. Being defeated in both these objects, the
Spaniards desisted from any farther efforts to explore the
north-west coast of the American continent, and did not
renew their efforts for nearly half a century afterwards.
Though for the present they ceased to explore the
north-west division of the New World, yet the commerce
of the Spaniards in the Pacific ocean was continually
increasing, and their ** Government was adopting those
measures of restriction and exclusion which were main-
tained with so little relaxation during the whole period
of its supremacy in the American continent." * * *
" The great object of its policy was to secure to the
people of Spain the perpetual enjoyment of all the advan-
tages which could be derived from the territories claimed
by them, and, with that view, it was considered absolutely
necessary, not only to prevent the establishment of for-
eigners m any part of those territories, but also to dis-
courage the rapid advancement of the Spanish provinces
themselves, in population, wealth or other resources.
Agreeably to these ideas, the settlement and even the
exploring of new countries in America, were restrained ;
colonies were rarely allowed to be planted near the
coast, unless they might serve for purposes of defence,
and when voyages or journeys of discovery 'vere made,
the results were generally concealed by the government.
The subjects oi all foreign nations were prohibited, under
pain of death, from touching the section of the New
World supposed to belong to Spain, or from navigating
the seas in its vicinity."
About this time, 1670, the principles of civil and reli-
gious hberty were beginning to operate in England.
They no longer acknowledged the Pope of Rome as their
spiritual head, nor did they stand in fear of his fulmina-
tions. And, though the successor of St. Peter had
OREGON TERRITORY.
351
granted to Spain a great part of the American continent,
and, as far as possible, had confirmed her in her posses-
sions, yet the English murmured bitterly against these
excluding regulations of the Spanish government, and
required " an acknoTvled^ment of their right to occupy
vacant portions of America, and to trade with such as
were already settled."
These reasonable demands were refused by the Span-
ish government, and the Queen of England encouraged
her subjects, openly and secretly, to violate laws which
she declared to be unjustifiable and inhuman. Accord-
ingly, on the Atlantic side of the continent, we see
these restrictive laws immediately violated by bands
of daring English, and, in the name of free-traders and
Jree-hooters^ who set the Spaniards at defiance, plunder-
ing their ships and some of their towns along the coast.
From the reports concerning the importance of the com-
merce of the Pacific, the English had long desired to
share in its advantages, and at length all their dread
of the difficulties and dangers of the passage through the
strait of Magellan were overcome, and there appeared
on the waters of the Pacific the most renowned naval
captain of the age. This captain was Francis Drake •,
and, as an opinion has prevailed that he e.flected im-
portant discoveries on the coast of Oregon, it will be
proper to notice his movements while he remained on
this coast.
Mr. Greenhow in his able memoirs, has collected all
the evidences of Drake's discoveries on this coast, and
from an account of his voyage by his chaplain, and from
nearly all the biographical sketches of the hero for a
century after his voyage had been accomplished, and
from the contradictions of those writers who attempt to
establish the opposite, he arrives at the conclusion that
"the English under Drake, in all probability saw no
part of the west coast of America north of the forty-
third degree of north latitude."
Drake's visit to this coast took place in 1579, and
proceeding as high up as the forty-third degree, and
finding the weather cold and boisterous, and knowing
■■■)■ '.
,J
352
OREGON TfiRRlTORV.
that his ship needed repairing before he could return to
England, he turned about^ and retracing his steps as far
bacK as the thirty-eighth degree, entered the bay now
called " San Francisco," where he spent the remainder
of the winter. The following spring he put a^ain to
sea, and, by the way of China and the Cape oi Good
Hope, returned to England, where, immediately after
his arrival, for his wonderful voyage and marvelous
exploits, he was knighted by Queen Elizabeth, on the
deck of his own ship. Dodbtless the character of
Drake as a hero and a great navigator, is well founded ;
but the assertion that he explored the whole extent of
this coast, and discovered the Columbia river, is a fabri-
cation, and is entitled to no more credit than the fabled
voyage of Maldorado from the north-west coast, acres
the continent, into the Atlantic ocean.
That Francis Drake is not entitled to the credit ol
being the first discoverer of the coast as far up as tht
fortv-third degree, appears from an account of a voyage,
performed by Cabrillo and Ferrelo, two Spaniards, in
1543, thirty-six years before the voyage of Drake. In
the month of March they sailed to the forty-fourth
degree, and in consequence of the suffering of their
crews from cold, fatigue, and want of proper nourish-
ment, they resolved to proceed no farther northwarc , and
accordingly directed their course towards the south. *
These were probably the first white men that ever saw
any of the land embraced in the territory of Oregon,
and they saw only about two degrees of the coast, at
the soutn-west corner.
The next discoveries of importance made on the coast
of Oregon, were by a Spanish navigator, by the name
of Heceta, in 1774. He was sent by the viceroy of
Mexico from San Bias, to explore the coast north of
the forty-third parallel, and succeeded in reaching as
high up as the fifty-fourth degree, where he made land,
probably the north-west part of Queen Charlotte's Island.
From this point he turned southward, entered a fine bay
See Greenhow's Memoirs.
ORBOON TERRITORY.
858
in latitude forty-nine and one-half, and proceeding down
along the coast, saw land occasionally, but does not
appear to have minutely examined the shore, and arrived
at Monterey on the 27th of August.
The following year another expedition was fitted out,
and Heceta was intrusted with the command. He pro-
ceeded northward, touched at port Trinidad in latitude
forty-one, where he communicated with the natives,
and, on leaving, erected a cross with an inscription set-
ting forth the rights of the Spanish sovernment to the
country discovered. From this point he continued north
as high as the forty-eighth or forty-ninth degree, then
turned east, and soon saw land, which was probably the
south-west side of Vancouver's Island, at the entrance
of the Strait of Fuca.
Not being able to examine this part of the coast, they
were driven southward to within eighty miles of tLe
Columbia river, where they came to anchor inside of a
small island, near the main land. Here they met with
a cruel misfortune. They sent some of their men on
shore to search for water, and while in the discharge of
their duty, they were surrounded by savages and imme-
diately murdered. As they were numerous, the Indians
immediately put off in their canoes to the ships, evidently
with the intention of taking them and destroying the
crews. But the Spaniards finally succeeded in prevent-
ing them from boarding; and on their departure, in
commemoration of the event, the island was called the
Isle of Grief. At the same place, and in the same man-
ner, twelve years afterwards, some of the crew of an
English ship were destroyed, and by them the island
was called Destruction Island. After this disaster,
Heceta continued soutiiward along the coast, and disco-
vered the promontory which now bears the name of
Cape Disappointment* but which the Spaniards called
Cape San Roque. Directly south of this, and under the
parallel of forty-six degrees sixteen minutes, he saw an
opening in the land, which appeared to be a harbor, or
the mouth of some river. As 'Heceta did not enter this
harbor, the existence of the river subsequently was
15*
854
OREGON TERRITORY.
■'I
5 ..&'
m
If
i*».
J' '"t V-
more a matter of conjecture than of certainty, though
it was put down on the Spanish maps by the name of
Rio de San Roque. From these circumstances, it is at
least inferable that Heceta and his companions were
the first civilized men that ever saw the Columbia river.
During the same year, 1775, another Spanish naviga-
tor, by the name of Bodega, made the Oregon coast
about thirty miles south of the mouth of the Columbia.
The land first seen by them was the high promontory
now Imown by the name of Kilemook Head ; but which
the Spaniards called Cape Mizani. Bodega examined
the coast, from this point to Cape Mendocino, in search
of a large river, said to have been seen by Aguilar, in
1603. But not succeeding in his attempts, he took his
departure from this part of the coast and returned to
Monterey.
The next discoveries on the Oregon coast were made
by the celebrated Captain James Cook, an English navi-
gator, in 1778. This enterprising man left England
early in the summer of 1777, and arrived on the Ameri-
can coast in March, 1778. The primary object of his
voyage was the discovery of a north-west passage from
the Pacific ocean to the Atlantic, an object which long
engaged the attention of England and Spain. To accom-
plich this object, he was to explore the whole extent
of coast, from the forty-fifth degree as far north as the
weather and ice would allow him to proceed. He first
made land near the forty-second degree of latitude ; but
by the violence of storms, was driven still farther to the
south. However, the wind becoming more favorable,
he proceeded on his course to the nortnward, and on the
22d of March, he found himself in sight of the coast a
little beyond the forty-eighth degree. The land here
discovered by Cook was the projecting point of the con-
tinent at the entrance of the strait of Juan De Fuca, to
which he gave the name of Cape Flattery, and which is
the north-west corner of Oregon territory. Cook ex-
amined the coast a few miles south of this point ; but not
succeeding in his object -here, he soon continued north,
and in latitude forty-nine and a half, cast anchor in a
-4
OREGON TERRITORY.
353
spacious and secure harbor, to which he subsequently
gave the name of Nootka Sound. Here he continued
several weeks, during which he held constant intercourse
with the Indians, who appeared to be no strangers to
white men ; and after making the necessary repairs, and
taking in wood, water and refreshments, he again steered
to the northward to buffet the ice and storms of the
Arctic Ocean, in a vain attempt to discover a north-west
passage. Thus terminated his discoveries on the Oregon
coast. He was subsequently basely murdered by the
natives of Hawaii.
It is worthy of remark, that this usually fortunate navi-
gator and discoverer was driven past the mouth of the
Columbia river, by a storm, during the night.
There seems to have been but little notice taken of the
Oregon coast during the ten years which followed the
discoveries of Cook, though at this time the coast farther
north was very well known. As Nootka Sound was
known to be a good harbor, after Cook's account of his
voyage was made public, vessels, in visiting this region,
generally steered their course for that place. But in
1788, Captain John Meares, an Englishman, fitted out
an expedition at Macao for the purpose of discovering
the harbor, or river, or rather opening, which was first
seen by Heceta, in 1775, and subsequently noticed on
the Spanish maps, by the name of the Rio De San Roque.
The principal object that Meares had in view, on this
part of the coast, was to ascertain whether there was
such a river in existence ; and the account which he has
given of his discoveries, at this point, will show the un-
reasonableness of the claims of the English, to be the
first to ascertain the fact of the existence of the Columbia
river. In latitude forty-six degrees and forty-seven
minutes, he discovered a head-land which he called Cape
Shoal Water, and proceeding south along the coast, he
says — "An high bluff promontory bore us oflf south-east,
at the distance of only four leagues, for which we steered
to double, with the hope that between it and Cape Shoal
Water, we should find some sort of harbor. We now
discovered distant land beyond this promontory, and we
M V
856
OREGON TERRITORY.
111
t.}^ '
N.
H\ , fi
I'M
^4
pleased ourselves with the expectation of its being Cape
Saint Roc of the Spaniards, near which they are said to
have found a good port. By half-past eleven we doubled
this Cape at the distance of three miles, having a clear
and perfect view of the shore in ,©very part, on which
we did not discern a Uving creature, or the least trace
of habitable life. A prodigious, easterly swell rolled on
the shore, and the soundings gradually decreased from
forty to sixteen fathoms, over a hard sandy bottom.
After we had rounded the promontory, a large bay, as
we had imagined, opened to our view, that bore a very
promising appearance, and into which we steered with
every encouraging expectation.
" The high land that formed the boundaries of the bay
was at a great distance, and a flat level country occupied
the intervening space ; the bay itself took rather a west-
erly direction. As we steered in, the water shoaled to
nine, eight, and seven fathoms, when breakers were seen
from the deck right ahead, and from the mast-head they
were observed to extend across the bay ; we, therefore,
hauled out and directed our course to the opposite shore,
to see if there was any channel, or if we could discover
any port.
"The name of Cape Disappointment was given to the
promontory, and the bay obtained the title of Deception
bay. By an indifferent meridian observation, it lies in
the latitude of forty-six degrees and ten minutes north,
and in the computed longitude of 235 degrees and 34
minutes east. We can now with safety assert, that there
is no such river as that of Saint Roc exists, as laid down
in the Spanish charts."
It follows, from this account of Captain Meares, first,
that he became fully convinced, from personal observa-
tion, that no great river entered the Pacific ocean from
the American continent at this point. And, second, that
no such river had previously been discovered by English
navigators, and that the assertion, that " the Columbia
was discovered by Captain, afterwards Sir Francis
Drake," must be totally unfounded. For, if the latter
captain had made this discovery, the fact must have been
OBBeON TERRITORY.
Wl
known by Captain Meares, and he would not have been
so ready to decide that " no such river exists." The
truth appears to be this— up to the year 1788, it was not
known by any civilized nation, that the creat Colum-
bia had an existence on the face of the globe.
The citizens of the United States appear to have taken
no part in the discoveries on the north-west coast, and in
the trade opened by such discoveries previously to the
year, 1788. At that time a conopany of merchants from
Boston, seqtt two ships around Cape Horn, commanded
respectively by Captain Robert Gray and Captain John
Kendrick.
The names of these vessels were, the Columbia and
Washington. These were the first American ships that
visited the north-west coast. After weathering a violent
storm in which the Columbia, which Kendrick com-
manded, received some injury, they proceeded to
Nootka Sound, where both vessels spent the winter.
The object of this expedition was to collect the fine and
valuable furs with which the country abounds, and ship
them to Canton.
While these two American ships were in this part of
the ocean, there was considerable difficulty between the
Spaniards and the English, in reference to which had the
best right to the country in the vicinity of Nootka Sound.
In the settlement of this difficulty, the American captains
took an active and efficient part, and from an under-
standing of the whole affair, were of the opinion that,
from a previous discovery and occupancy, the Spanish
claims were well founded, and that the possession of the
country was an unjustifiable arrogancv upon the part
of the British. But it is no part of the object of this
sketch to investigate the subject of these conflicting
claims. The Columbia and Washington continued on
the ^cast until the month of August, 1789, when it was
dttciii-ined between them, that Captain Gray should
take the command of tbe Columbia and proceed to China
and the United States, with all the furs which had been
collected, and Kendrick should remain on the coast in
the Washington. ^ _.
»|
858
OREGON TERRRITORY.
Gray accomplished this voyage in safety, and on the
27th day of September, 1790, again left Boston in the
same ship fjpr the north-west coast, and sometime in
May of 1791, made land a little to the north of Cape
Mendocino, or near the forty-first degree of north lati-
tude. While proceeding northward towards Nootka, Cap-
tain Gray discovered an opening in the shore of consider-
able width in latitude forty-six degrees sixteen minutes,
from which issued a strong current which prevented his
entrance. He continued off against this opening for nine
days, with an intention, if possible, to enter it, but the
strength of the current and probably from the appearance
of the breakers which previously had frightened Meares,
he was unable at this time to accomplish his object.
Though convinced that he had discovered the mouth
of a great river, without waiting longer for an oppor-
tunity to enter it, he proceeded to the north, and in
June arrived at Nootka Sound. From this point Gray
continued his course north, and after making some im-
J)ortant discoveries in the vicinity of Queen Charlotte's
sland, returned to Clyoquot, near Nootka, where he
continued during the winter. Captain Kendrick in the
meantime had stayed on the coast, and about the time
that Gray went into winter quarters, he set sail for the
Sandwich Islands, where he first opened a traflic with
the natives, in the article of sandal-wood. Though
Kendrick first opened this trade, he did not long live to
enjoy the benefit of his discovery, but in 1793, was mur-
dered by the Islanders.
In the spring of 1792, the discoveries on the coast of
Oregon were prosecuted both by the English and
Americans. In the middle of April, Captain Vancouver
arrived on the coast with two ships under his command,
and commencing at Cape Mendocino, explored the whole
extent of coast, as he proceeded to the north, and passed
the opening which Gray attempted to enter in latitude
forty-six degrees sixteen minutes, without considering it
as being worthy of his particular attention, on account
of the forbidding appearance which it presented. In
his progress northward he says, that, " the coast was so
OREGON TERRITORY.
850
minutely examined that the surf was constantly seen to
break on its shores from the mast-head. And yet, that
he saw no appearance of an opening? in its shores, which
presented any certain prospect of affording shelter."
On his way up the coast he fell in with the ship Colum-
bia, Captam Gray, who had just left his wintering place
at Clyoquot. In their interview, Gray informed Van-
couver that the previous summer he had been off the
mouth of a river in latitude forty-six degrees ten minutes,
where the outset was so strong as to prevent his entering
for nine days. In referring to this, Vancouver says, that
"this was probably the opening passed by us on the
forenoon of the 27th, and was apparently inaccessible,
not from the current^ but from the breakers that extend
across it." He also observes that he was thoroughly
convinced, as were most persons on board, that he could
not have passed any harbor or place of security for
shipping, from Cape Mendocino to Cape Flattery.
From this it appears that Captain Vancouver did not
yet believe that such a river as was represented by
Gray, had any existence. And under this impression he
proceeded on to the north, while Gray, to assure him-
self of the reality of his discovery of a great river,
resolved, if possible, to enter it with his ship. While
proceeding southward he entered a harbor, which he
called BuTfinch's Harbor; but passing on, arrived, on
the 11th of May, 1792, opposite the bay which Meares
called the Bay of Deception, immediately south of Cape
Disappointment, and in latitude forty-six degrees ten
minutes north. Though the breakers presented a formi-
dable obstacle before them, and they did not know but
that they were rushing to inevitable destruction, yet
Captain Gray and his gallant comrades dashed bravely
on, and discovering a narrow passage through the break-
ers, passed them in safety, and as Gray had anticipated,
found themselves in a large river of fresh water, up
which they proceeded the distance of twenty miles.
The point at which they arrived, was probably the nar-
row and shallow channel known by the name of Tongue
Point Channel, and which is difficult to pass, though the
I
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*li
'i
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f^yl
hi!*
1 1
CHUeaON TBRftlTOBY.
A
1
river is well known. The natives flocked around the
strangers and manifested the utmost surprise, at what
they saw and heard. A traffic was opened with them
in which furs were received from the Indians, m ex-
change for coarse goods ; and after having continued in
the river eight days, making repairs, trading with the
natives, exploring the river, and taking observations of
the surrounding country. Captain Gray again passed the
breakers at the entrance, through the intricate channel,
prepared to announce to the world the most important
discovery that was ever made on the north-west coast.
Before taking his departure, Captain Gray bestowed
the name of his vessel upon the majestic river which he
had discovered, calling it the Columbiay a name which,
in honor of the generous captain who bestowed it, and
of the gallant ship that first anchored in its waters, it
should forever retain. The high promontorv on the
north side of the entrance, which was called Cape
Disappointment, by Meares, in token of his unsuccessful
search, by Captain Gray was called Cape Hancock, and
the low point on the south side Cape Aaams.
It has been asserted by one writer, that the existence
of this river was long known before Gray or Vancouver
visited it.* Doubtless, it was known by the Indian
tribes that lived upon its banks, but if any white man
ever saw it he was not permitted to survive to tell of
his discovery. From a survey of the whole ground, it
appears clearly that Captain Robert Gray is entitled to
the credit of being the original discoverer of this great
river of Oregon ; a river which, when viewed as the
only convenient or practicable channel to and from one
of the most extensive and fertile valleys in North
America, will bear comparison with almost any river in
the world.
From the mouth- of this river. Gray returned to the
north, and in the vicinity of Queen Charlotte's Island,
while his vessel was under full sail, she struck a rock
and received so great an injury that she was near
* Astorim.
OIlSOON TERBlTOftY.
aei
iny river in
founderinffy but he finally succeeded in getting her into
Nootka Sound, when his damage was soon repaired.
Gray found at this place a Spaniard who had the com-
mand of the establishment, and to him he immediately
communicated the results of his examinations, and par-
ticularly his discovery of the Columbia river, which
proved a very fortunate circumstance, for he thereby
obtained an unimpeachable witness in his favor. He
continued in this region a few months actively employed
in his trade with the natives, and other business, and in
the ensuing fall took his final departure from the north-
west coast
In a discussion of the conflicting claims of the two
governments, it had been arranged between the Spanish
and English, that the former should surrender to the
latter the country lying around the Nootka Sound, and
Captain Vancouver was the commissioner from England
to receive the surrender. The negotiations between
Vancouver and the Spanish commissioner took place
while Gray and other American captains were on the
coast. The contest which was carried on between the
two parties, however interesting, would be too tedious
to introduce here. Suffice it to say, the place was not
surrendered nor does it appear that the Spanish flag was
ever struck to the British at Nootka Sound. Be this as
it may, in the month of October, Vancouver left Nootka
with his three vessels, the Discovery, Chatham, and
Doedalus, having procured from Quadra, the Spanish
commissioner, copies of the charts and descriptions of
Gray, and proceeded southward to satisfy himself of the
correctness of Gray's representations. Whidby in the
Doedalus was sent to explore Bulfinch's Harbor, while
Vancouver proceeded with the other vessels to the
mouth of the Columbia. Vancouver's own ship, the
Discovery, was not able to enter the river, and he there-
fore proceeded on to the Bay of San Francisco. But
the Chatham, under Lieutenant Braughton, succeeded,
with great difficulty, in crossing the bar. He found lying
at anchor in the bay the brig Jenny, from Bristol, which
had left Nootka a few days previous. The Chatham
362
ORfiOON TKRRI'rOIIY.
i •■ \
'"i"!*!^
ran aground soon after entering, and Braughton, from
the intricacy of the channel, resolved to leave her about
four miles within the bar and proceed up the river in a
boat. Accordingly he set out, and thoroughly examin-
ing every part of the river, he penetrated to the distance
ot about ninety-six miles from the mouth, where the
takes a l)end and where the strength of the current
river
or
was such as to induce them to return. This bend
point in the river, they called Point Vancouver. Return-
mg to their ship they gave a bay on the north side of the
river, the name of d-ray's Bay, but the bay back of Cape
Disappointment, they called Baker's Bay, after the cap-
tain of the brig Jenn3r.
Havine remained in the river twenty days, on the
10th of November they again crossed the bar, and pro-
ceeded south to join Vancouver in the bay of San Fran-
cisco. With the usual avariciousness of English aristo-
crats, Braughton, before his departure, formally^ took
possession of the river and of the country in the vicinity,
in the name of his Britanic Majesty, " Having every
reason to believe that the subjects of no other civilized
nation or state had ever entered this river before ;" an act
of justice the like of which the subjects of Great Britain
are ever ready to perform towards American citizens.
At the bay of San Francisco, Braughton and Whidby
reported the result of their observations to Vancouver,
and the former was dispatched to England, while the
latter proceeded to the Sandwich Islands.
Vancouver never again returned to the coast of Ore-
gon, though he subsequently explored minutely the region
round about Cook's Inlet. However, he sailed south as
far as Nootka, from which place he took his departure
for Enffland, where he arrived in August, 1795, having
been absent more than four years.
Braughton having been elevated to the rank of Cap-
tain, was again sent by the British government to the
Pacific, and arrived on the coast of Nootka in the spring
of 1796, empowered to receive the surrender of the place
from the Spanish, but found it entirely abandoned by
the whites, and in the possession of savages, under the
:)((3
OREGON TBRRITORY.
treacherous, cruel and notorious Maquinna. It should
be observed that Nootka Sound is on the west side of
Vancouver's Island, consequently it does not properly
belong to the coast of Oregon.
\
\ •
■ ^ »*»> ■■. «
•-i.
'ff-.-'iti^^'^*' '■'■>■■ ■''i^-'^
(if
CHAPTER XVm
.^.
W;
'^4
Oregon territory— History continued— European nations involved in wai^Pacific trade
carrfe.:* by the Great Republic— Ship Boston slezed by the Indians— Land Expedi-
tions—Captain Jonathan Carver- Sir Alexander McEinzie— Lewis and Clark-
Project of John Jacob Astor- Captain Thorn and the Tonquin McDougal ani
Concomley — Fate of the Tonquin— Wilson Price Hunt — Depression at the fort—
Encouragement^Ship Beaver arrives— Declaration of war— Thompson and the
north-west comnany— Ross Cox— Astoria in danger— Visit of McTavish and Stuart
Alarming news— Eflect o.i the American company— Sloop of war— Racoon and
Captain Black— Astoria falls into the hands of the British— Astor's magnificent
enterprise terminated.
For twenty years following 1796, the nations of Eu-
rope were involved in the most bloody and destructive
wars, and consequently but little if any interest was
taken Iw either Spain or England, in the north-west
coast of America, either as it regards its occupancy or
its trade ; and seldom during that entire period, did the
vessels of any other nations than those of the United
States, appear in the North Pacific. The trade, there-
fore, between this coast and other parts of the world,
was exclusively carried on under the flag of the great
Republic.
Though they made no establishment on the coast for
the first sixteen years, the Americans sent their vessels
annually to this region, lad<^n with such articles as the
natives of the country desired, which they exchanged for
furs. These were carried to Canton and exchanged for
silks, porcelain, teas, and other articles suited to the vari-
ous markets then open to American vessels. This trade
engaged th^ attention of many persons from various parts
of the Union, and in its earlier stages, fortunes were
amassed, but it will be understood that, from the length of
the voyages performed, the nature of the coast, the difii-
OREGON TBRRITORY.
S65
culty of the trade, and, above all, the treachery of the
savages with whom the traffic was carried on, the per-
sons employed therein were constantly exposed to the
greatest perils. But the dangers to which they volun-
tarily subjected themselves, are no reason why they
might pursue a fraudulent or abusive course with the In-
dians. Yet, doubtless, many of them did not render an
equivalent for the furs received, and the natives were
sometimes deceived by trinkets that were of no value.
Spirits were also introduced among them, which had a
direct tendency to inflame their savaee passions. Diffi-
culties and quarrels arose frequently oetween the Ame-
ricans and Indians, and it required the most extraordinary
skill and courage on the part of the former, to accom-
plish their business, with the ignorant and treacherous
savages with whom they were surrounded. But very
few vessels visited these shores during this period that
did not suffer the loss of one or more of its crew, by
the ruthless hand of the blood-thirsty Indian.
Those who have read the narrative of John R. Jewitt,
will recollect the circumstances of the bloody massacre
of the crew of the ship Boston, in 1603, by Maquinna and
his followers, while she was lying at Nootka. Under the
appearance of friendship and without exciting suspicion,
this treacherous chief laid his plans to destroy the crew,
and seize the vessel as his own, which he cruelly put
into execution, murdering all the crew but two, who,
after continuing in slavery three years, finally effected
their escape.
Previous to this period (1803) the subject of land ex-
peditions across the continent to the Pacific ocean, was
agitated among the people of the United States, princi-
pally through the representations of Captain Jonathan
Carver, who, in 1766, explored the sources of the Mis-
sissippi, and said he had discovered a river which flowed
west, which he called the Oregon river, and which he
had no doubt emptied into the Western Ocean.
It is in Carver s account that we first detect the name
Oregon, a name which, it is conjectured, first oi iginated
with Carver himself. However it mig^t have come into
I
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OREGON TERRITORY.
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existence, it will probably be continued in connection
with the country to the end of time.
In 1774, Captain Carver and Richard Whitworth pro-
jected what, in those days, was considered a bold and
daring enterprise, which was to cross the continent from
Missouri to the Pacific ocean, for the purpose of explor-
ing the country and tracing out the sources of the Ore-
gon river, which Carver said he had previously seen ;
of passing down that river to its supposed exit, there
building a vessel and carrying on their discoveries by
But this project, which, if it had been carried out,
sea.
might have been attended with important results, was
debated by the breaking out of the American Revolution.
A more successful attempt of this kind was made in
1793, by Sir Alexander Mckenzie. This gentleman was
employed by the ** North West Company" to explore
those regions of the west and north, which even to fur-
hunters yet remained unknown. In 1789, he explored
the Hyperborean regions to the Arctic ocean ; but, in
1793, he took a more westerly route, and ascending
Peace river to its sources, he passed the dividing ridge,
and entering upon a river that flowed towards the Pacific,
he pursued it, and finally arrived on the coast of the
Pacific ocean, in latitude fifty-two degrees and twenty
minutes north. He supposed the river he had discovered
was the Oregon river of Carver, but subsequent discove-
ries have proved it to be the stream which now bears
the name of Frazier's river. It empties into the ocean
three degrees north of the Columbia river.
This was the first journey performed by a white man
across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean. This,
however, took place north of the limits of the territory
of Oregon, > . *v
In 1804, '5 and '6, the memorable expedition under
Captains Merriweather Lewis and William Clark, was
accomplished. This exploring journey was projected by
the United States Government, through the recommenda-
tion of Thomas Jefierson, who was then President.
Captain Lewis was made the commander of the expedi-
tion, and after much difiiculty in preparing, on the 14th
fr-f' --■J-
OREGON TERRITORY
367
day of May, 1804, they began the ascent of the Missouri
in boats.
After toiling the entire season, sometime near the last
of October, they found themselves sixteen hundred miles
from the mouth of the Missouri, and among savage
tribes, prepared to spend the first winter of their cam-
paign. In the spring of 1805, these indefatigable men
continued their course up the Missouri to its sources in
the Rocky Mountains ; passed the stupendous gates of
that mighty chain, and on the other side came to a river
which flowed to the westward. They followed it down
until it became a broad and noble river, and on the 7th
of October, embarked in canoes, and in a few days found
themselves at the confluence of two splendid rivers,
which proved to be the two great branches of the Colum-
bia. The branch they descended, which was the south
branch, they called the Lewis, and the north they dis-
tinguished by the name of Clark.
Continuing their downward course they successively
passed the Palls of the Columbia, the Dalls, the Cascades,
below which they began to be aflfected by th'; rise and
fall of the tide, and knowing by this that they must be
drawing near the ocean they passed on, and on the 15th
day of November, 1805, landed at Cape Disappointment,
on the north side of the mouth of the Columbia.
As the rainy season was setting in they examined the
country on both sides of the river, with a viaw to find a
suitable place to make thoir encampirjent for the winter.
They accordingly built a fort on the south side, not far
from an Indian village, and called it Fort Clatsop, after
the name of the Indian tribe.
Here they spe»it an agreeable winter, and as the weather
would admit, explored the surrounding country. The
savages were peaceable, and assisted in procuring them
food, such as the river and sea afforded, of which there
was no lack. Here tidy continued until tiie 13th . y
of March, at which time, having made the necessary
preparations, they commenced their long and toilsome
journey back to the United States. They ascended the
river in canoes as far as they could, on account of the
368
OREGON TBRRITOEY.
1.1
I: <
rapids, and then resolved to proceed by land. They
divided themselves into two parties, with the design of
re-crossing the Rocky Mountains by two different routes.
That under Lewis took nearly a due east course to the
Falls of the Missouri, while that under Clark took a more
southern route to the head waters of the Yellow Stone,
and the two parties were to unite at the junction of these
rivers. In the month of August, the parties again united,
according to agreement, and passing down the Missouri,
arrived at St. Louis on the 28d of September, 1806, after
an absence of two years and six months.
The journey of Lewis and Clark was one of discovery,
and the first performed by white men across the territory
of Oregon. The information which the account of these
gentlemen g&ve to the people of the States, was received
with great interest, and contributed to hasten the settle-
ment of the north-west boundary question between the
territories of Great Britain and those of the United States,
as far west as the Rocky Mountains ; and also to induce
private individuals to extend their trade with the Indians
beyond that chain.
In 1806, the British fur- traders of the north made their
first establishment on the west side of the mountains.
Mr. Simon Frazer, of the North-West Company, estab-
lished himself on Frazer's Lake, near the fifty-fourth
degree of north latitude, in a country since called by the
English, New Caledonia. But the first establishment of
the kind which was made on the waters of theCoJumliia,
and within the limits of Oregon, was that of Manuel
Lisa, a Spaniard, who was a member of the Missouri
Fur Company, which was formed at St. Louis, in 1808.
This was made on the head waters of Lewis' river, and
was placed under the immediate direction of Mr. Henry,
but, in consequence of the difficulty of obtaining supplies,
and the continued hostility of the savages around, it was
given up in 1810.
At this time was formed the magnificent project of
John Jacob Astor, of New York, in reference to a trading
establishment at the mouth of the Columbia river.
The Company of which this distinguished merchant was
OABGON TERRITORY.
869
the chief support, as well as the priQcipal director, was
formed in 1810, aiid called the racific Fur Company.
Among the individuals that Mr. As tor admitted to a
partnership in the company, were a number who had
formerly belonged to the British fur companies, and
being acquainted with the trade, Mr. Astor considered
then> a valuable acquisition. A gentleman, however,
from New Jersey, by the name of Wilson Price Hunt,
was to be the principal agent in the establishment.
Other posts were to be established also, as circum-
stances would admit. It was designed to send ships
around Cape Horn to the Columbia, laden with articles
of Indian trade, which were to be exchanged for furs,
and these were to be sent to China and exchanged for
goods that would suit the markets of the United States.
The plan was well laid, and but for opposing circum-
stances which no sagacity, however penetrating, could
previously discover, and over which the originator could
have no control, it doubtless would have succeeded to
admiration. The first ship which was sent out was the
Tonquin, which was commanded by Jonathan Thorn.
McDougal, McKay, and one or two others, who were
partners and clerks, went in her.
They left New York in September, 1810, and on the
22d day of March arrived at the mouth of the Columbia
river. As they approached the mouth, they discovered
that the water broke in dreadful surges across the bar,
and there appeared to be no possibility of effecting an
entrance. And now began the heart-rending sufferings
of that ill-fated crew.
Captain Thorn sent off a boat to explore the entrance
under one of his officers by the name of Fox. Fox at
first declined, but the Captain insisted, and finally Fox
consented by saying, " Yes, I will go and lay my bones
by the side of those of my father, who was lost at this
pkce but a few years ago." The party started off, and
the boat passing over the mountain waves, slowly sepa-
rated from the ship. Night came on, but the boat did
not return. Another, but no boat ; the ship in the mean-
time standing off and on. The utmost anxiety prevailed
16
1
'.r
370
OREGON TERRITORY.
on board. What should be done? Another boat was
sent off to look for the former, and also to find the en-
trance. Two persons belonging to the latter boat only,
survived to tell the story that all their companions were
lost. They perished anid the breakers at the entrance
of the river ; and thuc was given the remainder of the
crew, a most solemn warning of the more tragic fate
which awaited them.
Soon after this disaster the weather became more
favorable, and the Tonquin passed the bar and came to
anchor in Baker's Bay. After McDougal and others
had examined the country round about, the site they
pitched upon for the establishment of their post was
about ten miles up the river, and on the south side.
They built a trading house, and inclosed it with pickets,
and gave it the name of " Astoria," after the name of
the projector of the enterprise. Soon after they arrived,
the partners crossed the river to visit Comcomly, the
chief of the Chenooks.
When they got ready to leave to return to the fort,
the wind was high, and the water in the bay was rough.
Comcomly endeavored to dissuade them from crossing,
but they resolved to make the attempt. The^wary chief,
however, sprang into his canoe with several of his men,
and kept close along by the boat as she came into the
high swells, believing that she would not endure the sea.
His fears were well grounded, for scarcely had they
started when the boat capsized, and the partners and
their men were struggling in the water for life. Com-
comly, however, was immediately among them in his
canoe, and rescued them from a watery grave.
They were now willing to stiy with the chief till the
storm abated, which took place soon afterward; and they
returned to the fort.
McDougal was to be the head of the concern until
the arrival of Mr. Hunt. After considerable difficulty
between Captain Thorn and the gentlemen of the estab-
lishment, the goods designed for Astoria were landed,
and the ship proceeded northward for the purpose of
trafficking with the Indians along the coast. McKay
OREGON TERRITORY.
871
went in her as supercargo, and Mr. Lewis as clerk.
The whole number of persons on board was twenty-
three, besides an Indian, who accompanied them as
interpreter. The ship proceeded to Vancouver's Island,
and came to anchor in the harbor of Nittirat. Some
of the natives came on board, but as it was too late in
the day to traffick, McKay went on shore to see the
chief, whose name was Wicananish, and six of the
Indians remained on board as hostages. McKay was
received with great professions of friendship by the
chief, and a number of sea otter>skins were spread for
his bed. In the morning great numbers of the Indians
came off to the ship, apparently to trade, headed by
two sons of the chief, and bringing with them great
quantities of fur. The fur was spread upon the deck,
and the goods were also displayed before the Indians by
the unsuspecting crew. The bantering, which is peculiar
to Indian traffick, commenced, and all for a few moments'
seemed to go on well ; but at a concerted signal given
by the chiefs, the knives, war-clubs, and tomahawks,
which the savages had contrived to secrete about their
persons, were at once displayed, the crew were imme-
diately overpowered, and nearly all of them butchered
upon the deck. Mr. Lewis, the clerk, and some others
had succeeded in getting into the hold of the vessel, near
the powder magazine, and Lewis had told the interpreter
that he intended to blow up the ship, and in this way to
avenge his own death, and that of nis companions.
The ship was now in the full possession of the savages,
who thronged her deck and were clambering up her
sides, all intent upon securing their prize, and unconscious
of the terrible fate which awaited them and which they
so well deserved. At length the magazine was fired,
and a scene which beggars description was then pre-
sented. The ship was torn to atoms, and the decks in
broken fragments, mingled with shivered boxes, barrels,
guns, and the dissevered limbs, heads, and trunks of
savages, were blown high into the air, and falling upon
the dark and agitated waters, presented the most gloomy
picture of desolation. At th^ time of the explosion, the
:'1J
\m
OREOON TERRITORY.
4
interpreter was in the main chains, and was thrown un-
hurt into the waters, where he succeeded in getting into
one of the canoes which were floating tenantless in the
bay, and in this he went ashore and nnally got back to
Astoria in saiety, and from him the story of the fate of
the Tonquin is known.
In January, 1811, Mr. Wilson Price Hunt, who had
been appointed general agent of the concern on the
Columbia, set out from St. Louis to cross the Rocky
Mountains, and after he and his companions endured the
most incredible sufferings from cold, iktigue, and want
of food, they arrived at Astoria in the spring of 1812.
Soon after they arrived, the shocking intelligence of the
destruction of the Tonquin and her unfortunate crew,
reached Astoria, and threw the whole establishment into
the most gloomy forebodings. The disaster was calcu-
lated to depress the spirits and destroy the hopes of the
persons engaged in the enterprise. But the arrival of
the ship Beaver, from New York, which brought out
supplies and reinforcements, encouraged the Astorians,
and they resolved to prosecute vigorously their enter-
prise. It was determined that Mr. Hunt should leave
the river in the Beaver, and go to the northward, for the
purpose of advancing the interests of the company in that
region. Astoria was left under the direction of Mr.
Duncan McDougal, who had long been in the service of
the North West Company.
In January, 1813, the news of the declaration of war
by the United States against Great Britain, reached
Astoria by persons v 'lo had been sent by Mr. Aster
from New York for that purpose, and served to darken
the prospects of the company.
On the 15th of July, Mr. David Thompson arrived at
Astoria. This gentleman was a partner in the North
West Company, and it appears that he designed to antici-
pate Mr. Astor in the occupancy of the mouth of the
Columbia, but, to his disappointment, found the American
Company already in full possession. Whatever was his
object, he was doubtless the first person that descended
fi^om DMur its source, the north braaob oi the Columbia.
OREGON TERRITORY.
378
About this time the Astorians received information that
a British naval force was on its way to take possession
of the mouth of the river, which appeared to be a source
of satisfaction to McDouffal and other British subjects
who were connected with him, some of whom imme*
diately left the service of the Pacific Company and went
over to the rival association. One of the persons that
quitted the service of Mr. Astor was Ross Cox, who
subsequently published a narrative of six years' residence
on the Columoia.
At this time, which was in the month of January,
1813, nearly all the persons in the establishment at As-
toria agreed to abandon the enterprise, unless they should
speedily receive more supplies and assistance from New
York. Months passed awav, but no assistance from New
York arrived. Mr. Astor had dispatched the ship Lark,
for Astoria, with abundant supplies of men and property ;
but she was unfortunately wrecked on a coral reef, near
the coast of one of the Sandwich Islands, and thus added
another to the uncontrollable circumstances which served
to hasten the dissolution of the company.
From the representations of Mr. Astor, the govern-
ment of the United States had resolved to send a frigate
to the North Pacific, to succor and protect the infant
settlement at the mouth of the river ; but as the uaval
operations on Lake Erie and Lake Ontario began to assume
a decidedly impoitant character, it was necessary to
dispatch the men designed for the Pacific enterprise to
that quarter ; and the fact that the American ports were
blockaded by British fieets, rendered it impossible to
convey any farther succors to Astoria. Accordingly,
the partners of the Pacific Company, at Astoria, resolved
to abandon the enterprise and provide for their safety,
as they began to fear that they m'ght be attacked by the
British, who were already establishing themselves on the
upper waters of the Columbia.
A s^hort time after the partners came to this conclusion,
Mr. Hunt, the chief agent, returned to Astoria. During
his absence he had visited the Russian settlements at Sitka,
Unalashka and Kodiak, had collected a cargo of valuable
i
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374
(»RRnON TBRRITORV.
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furs and sent them to Canton ; but, on arriving at the
Sandwich Islands, he learned that England and the United
States were at war, and that Commodore Hillyer was
on his way to the Pacific ocean with a sc^uudron, to take
possession of the mouth of the Columbia. He, conse-
quently, chartered a vessel immediately and sailed for As-
toria to convey the news of war, and prepare to meet
any hostilities that might threaten them at their head-
quarters. He arrived at Astoria in the brig Pedlar, ^n
tne 28th of February, 1814, and was astonished to learn
that the concerns of the establishment had been wound
up some time previous.
Some time before Hunt arrived, acompany of British,
belonging to the North West Company established far in
the interior, and under the direction of McTavish and
Stuart, came down the river to Astoria, and brought the
alarming intelligence that a naval force was on its way
to the Columbia, with the object of taking and destroying
every thing American in that quarter. Notwithstanding
the probability that the whole establishment would fall
into the hands of the British, without their paying for it,
yet McTavish and Stuart proposed to purchase the whole
establishment, furs and other property, at a proper valu-
ation ; and also to receive into " The service of the
North West Company any of the persons belonging to
the Pacific Company, at the same wages they were
then receiving, and to send back to the •fnited States all
that did not choose to be thus employed." The partners
of the American Company resolved to comply with this
proposition, and accordingly the entire establishment was
sold to the North West Company for the sum of about
40,000 dollars.
While this negotiation was going on, the British sloop
of war Racoon, Captain Black, arrived at Astoria with
the expectation of sharing largely in the plunder of that
place, and, though he found the stars and stripes still
floating over the factory, yet all the valuable property,
consisting of furs, peltries, &c., had passed into the hands
of British subjects, and Capt. Black could do no more than
to lower the stars and stripes, and hoist the colors of
ORBUON TKRRITORV.
a75
Britain over the walls of the factory. This he did with
the accompanying ceremony of breaiving x bottle of port
on the liag-staff, and changing the name from Astoria, to
that of Fort George.
On arriving at Astoria, in the " Pedlar," Hunt found
that he cjould do nothing farther in that part of the world,
but to close up the concerns of the cornpany to the best
advantage, and return to the United States. Accord-
ingly he re-embarked in the Pedlar, with three of his
companions in trade, and returned home by the way of
Canton. Of the other persons who had been his associ-
ates in this astonishing enterprise, some entered the ser-
vice of the North West Company ; some exposed them-
selves to the perils of re-crossing the Rocky Mountains,
and others, ot whom there are a few living to this day,
took to themselves Indian wives, and fixed their habita-
tions among the savages of Oregon.
Thus the magnificent enterprise, conceived and prose-
cuted by John Jacob Astor, against so many opposing
circumstances, was brought to an unfortunate termina-
tion.
Doubtless, but for the unhappy war of that period, it
would have succeeded to admiration. That it did not
succeed, is to be sincerely regretted by every American ;
for, in that case, the country would never have been
divided ; long before this time, the whole of Oregon
would have been in the peaceable possession of the citi-
zens of the United States. But the circumstances which
militated against the success of this mighty project, were
purely -providential, and such as no prudence or foresight
in its originator could have possibly guarded against.
Though defeated in its ulterior objects, it opened the
way to Oregon to American citizens, and supplied the
means, in the interesting journals of those who were
connected with the enterprise, for Washington Irving to
awaken an interest in the American public, in relation to
Oregon, that has gone on increasing until the present
time. 1 ' , .
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CHAPTER XIX.
Oregon territory — History continued — Astoria restored to the yimericans — De^
Bcription of the Fort — Novlh West Company remain in the country — Rival
companies — Hudson's Bay Company — How formed— Extent of its operationa
— War between the two companies — Both merged in one — The Honorable
Hudson's Bay Company — Policy of the company — Number and situation of
trading forts — Immense power of the company — Colonizing the country-
Sir George Simpson's Colony — Settlements — Fort Vancouver — Gentiemea of
the Fort — Perils of the fur-trade — A thrilling tragedy.
According to the first article of the treaty of Ghent,
which provided "that all territory, places and posses-
sions whatsoever, taken by either party from the other,
during, or after the war, shoidd be restored without
delay, " measures were taken by the United States
Government to re-occupy the post at the mouth of the
Columbia river. In 1817, Captain J. Biddle and J. B.
Prevost were commissioned to proceed to the Columbia,
and there to assert the claim of the United States to the
sovereignty of the country. These gentlemen sailed
from New York in the sloop-of-war Ontario, on the 4th
of October, 1817. The British Government, hearing of
the departure of the Ontario for the Columbia, dispatched
an order to the agents of the North West Company,
directing them to give every facility in their power to
the agents of the United States Government, for the
re-occupation of Fort George, as a place that had been
captured during the war, and to be restored according
to the above article in the treaty of Ghent. Captain
Biddle entered the mouth of the Columbia in August,
1818, and on the 19th of the same month, the flag of
the United States was again floating over the stockades
of old Astoria. But a more formal surrenderi.ig of the
place by Great Britain and occupation of it by the United
OREGON TERRITORY.
377
States, took place the following October. On the first
(lay of this month, the British frigate Blossom, Captain
Hikey, arrived in the Columbia, bringing Mr. Pre vest,
who had left the Ontario in Chili, to attend to some
business there, and who was empowered to receive the
surrender of the place from the constituted British
authorities. Captain Hikey and James Keith, the latter
of whom was the superintendent of the North West
Company at that time, were the persons appointed to
deliver un the settlement in due form. The followins:
is the instrument by which the country captured by the
British, at the mouth of the Columbia, reverted to the
United States :
"In obedience to the commands of his Royal High-
ness the Prince Regent, signified in a dispatch from the
right honorable the Earl Bathurst, addressed to the
partners or agents of the North West Company, bearing
date the 27th of January, 1818, and in obedience to a
subsequent order, dated the 26th of July, from W. H.
Shireff, Esq., captain of his majesty's ship Andromache,
we, the undersigned, do, in conformity to the first article
of the treaty of Ghent, restore to the government of
the United States, through its agent, J. B. Pre vest, Esq.,
the settlement of Fort George, on the Columbia river.
Given under our hands in triplicate, at Fort George,
(Columbia River), this 6th day of October, 1818.
" F. Hikey, Capt. of his Majesty's ship Blossom.
"J. Keith, of the North West Company."
Mr. Prevost accepted this delivery in the following
language :
"I do hereby acknowledge to have this day received,
in behalf of the government of the United States, the
possession of the settlement designated above, in con-
formity to the first article of the treaty of Ghent.
Given under mv hand in triplicate, at Fort George,
(Columbia River), this 6th of October, 1818.
" J, B. Prevost, agent for the United States."
This transaction took place in 1818, and as Fort
George had then been in the possession of the North
West Company for more than four years, the trade of
378
OREGON TERRITORY.
■>:*
that company on the Columbia had become firmly estab-
lished. The fort at that time consisted of a stockade
inclosing a parallelogram of one hundred and fifty feet
by two hundred and fifty feet, extending in its greatest
length from north-west to south-east. Within this iuclo
sure were all the buildings attached to the establishment,
such as dwelling-houses, stores, mechanic' shops, &e.
On the fort were mounted two eighteen-pounders, four
four-pounders, two six-pound cohorns, and seven swivels.
The number of persons belonging to the factory, besides
a few women and children, were sixty-five, of whom
twenty-three were whites, twenty-six Sandwicli Island-
ers, and the remainder persons of mixed blood from
Canada. In the restitution of Fort George by Mr.
Keith, to the Americans, it was understood that the
North West Company would continue their occupaney
of the country, and trafiick therein according to the pro-
visions of the article of agreement entered into between
the United States and Great Britain, in October, 1818;
whi(?h was, '* That any country that may be claimed by
either party on the north-west coast of America, west-
ward of the Stony Mountains, shall, together with its
liarbors, bays, and creeks, and the navigation of all rivers
within the same, be free and open for the term of ten
years, to the vessels, citizens, and subjects of the two
powers."
The history of Oregon from 1814 to 1834, is embraced
in the history of those rival companies of fur-traders,
which have extended their operations, from time to time,
from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Vancouver's Island,
and from New Spain to the country of the Escjuimaux.
To give a particular account of these companios would
require volumes ; a brief survey, therefore, must suHiee.
While the French merchants of Quebec and xMoutreal
were, by their agents, exploring the immense Ibrcsts on
both sides of the great lakes, and ransacking the extended
prairies of the West and the valley of the Mississippi, in
quest of the rich and valuable furs with which the wilds
of North America abounded, and were furnishing France
and other European countries with the precious luxury,
OREGON TERRITORY.
379
the avails of which constituted their immense wealth, a
rival power ushered into being a corporation which is
now grasping the supreme dominion of the forest north
of the United States, from the coast of Labrador to the
Pacilic Ocean, and exercising an iron despotism, not
only over the numerous persons who are in its employ,
but also over many of the Indian tribes residing within
the limits of its jurisdiction. For a number of centuries
the government of Great Britain made the most extraor-
dinary eiforts to discover a north-west passage from the
Atlantic to the Pacific, during which Baffin and Hudson
explored the two bays, which now bear their names.
From the accounts given, the opinion was entertained
that the communication could be effected by Hudson's
Bay, and, as an encouragement to private enterprise, and
to increase the facilities to explore the regions of the
north, for the purpose of accomplishing this long desired
object, Charles II, in 1669, granted a charter to a society
of London merchants, under the designation of " The
Hudson's Bay Company." Then commenced the opera-
tions of a monopoly, second only in power to the far
filmed East India Company, which has opened the way
for the extension of British ru-le over a vast portion of
the continent of Asia. For manv years the Hudson's
Bay Company confined its operations within the Hyper-
borean regions, where it had enthroned itself in solitary
despotism, and where it opposed itself in successful
rivalry against a French company of a similar character ;
but, finatly, has extended itself throughout the entire
western territories claimed by Great Britain and the
United States, and has even laid under contribution a
portion of the Russian American possessions. During its
onward career it has experienced few reverses, though
it has frequently been called upon to contend with power-
ful opposition.
During the year 1787, an association was organized
among the principal fur-merchants of Montreal, for the
purpose of carrying the trade between the posts of that
country and such of the British territories of the interior
as were not supposed to be included in the grant to the
III
380
OREGON TERRITORY.
Hudson's Bay Company ; and so rapidly did it oxtcud its
operations, that within two years its establishments wcie
advanced as lar as Athabaska Lake, near the fit'ty-iiintli
parallel of latitude, about eight hundred miles north-west
Irom Lake Superior. This company, in its increasiiiirlv
extended operations, proved the most powerful competi-
tor with which the Hudson's Bay Company had to (.oii-
tend, but finally merged itself in the latter company.
The Hudson's Bay Company, exercising supreme
control over its frozen domains, at length found a new-
company advancing upon them with a menacing aspect,
and both companies became immediately actuated by the
spirit and motives of rivals. They became the most
bitter enemies to one another, and as the different par-
ties of the two companies would come in contact while
exploring the north-western wilds, the most serious
quarrels would take place, and result in the commission
of injuries by each party against the other. At length,
in 1814, a regular war broke out, and for some time
was openly carried on between them. The scene of
this fraternal war was the territory on the Red river,
contiguous to the frontiers of the United States. A
company of Scotch Highlanders had been established
here by Lord Selkirk, in 1812, in virtue of a grant of
the country by the Hudson's Bay Company. The
North West Company, to which the Scotch settlement
had proved injurious by wresting from them those sup-
plies of provisions for their trading posts, which had
been obtained almost wholly from the Red river kmds,
denied the validity of this grant, and hence arose many
disputes and various acts of violence, until finally, the
Scotchmen were driven awav, and their houses de-
stroyed by their opponents. The Hudson's Bay (com-
pany re-established the colony the following year, and
consequently hostilities were renewed.
Posts were taken and burnt by each party, and on
the 19th of June, 1816, a general battle was fought, in
which the North Westers were victorious. The Scotch-
men were routed, and their governor, Mr. Semple, and
seventeen of his followers, were killed.
OREGON TERRITORY.
381
These aflairs were represented by each party before
the British Government, and in 1821 a compromise was
effected between the rival companies, and they were
united by an act of ParUament, under the title of " The
Honorable Hudson's Bay Company." At the same time
an act was passed, granting to this company the exclu-
sive right to trade in the Indian territories in Northern
America, owned or claimed by Great Britain, for the
period of twenty-one years. Under the protection of
this act, after the coalition of the two companies took
place, the arms of the giant monopoly were thrown
around the entire territory west of the Rocky Moun-
tains, extending from the Russian settlements to the
Gulf of California. Oregon, from fifty-four degrees
forty minutes, south as far as they pleased to go, and
from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, was dotted
with forts and trading posts, and every valley and moun-
tain was made to contribute to swell the coffers of the
co-partners of this extensive concern.
The grand operations of the Hudson's Bay Company
are managed by a governor, deputy-governor, and a
committee of directors, established in London, to whom
all the Imports of the company's affairs are annually
transmitted. The trade of this company is under the
immediate control of a governor, residing within the
Held of its operations, who is responsible only to the
committee in London. Under him are inferior officers,
consisting of superintendents, factors, traders and clerks.
The higher officers have a direct interest or share in
the profits of the business, but the lower are engaged at
small salaries, with the promise of a pension for life,
after a given period of faithful service. But the most
numerous class of agents in the business of the company
are the hunters, voyagers, and trappers, consisting of
Hawaiians, French Canadians, half-breeds and Indians,
who are paid a mere pittance for their services, and are
kept in a state of entire subjection to the will of the
company, by promises of future advancement, according
as they shall render themselves of value to the trade.
The strictest discipline and subordination are every
382
OREGON TERRITORY.
I ':
'r\ ,
where enforced by the officers, and generally observed
by the servants, though occasionally there are violent
outbreaks.
The furs and skins which constitute nearly the solo
returns of the trade, arc principally procured from the
Indians in exchange for coarse manufactured goods, guns,
and a variety of worthless trinkets, calculated to please
the fancy of the savage, without proving of any benefit.
Some, however, are procured by the company's trappers
and hunters. The goods employed in this business are
all brought from England, free of duty, and, for the de-
partment west of the Rocky Mountains, are deposited
at Fort Vancouver. At this point, the goods that are
wanted for the interior, are packed in bundles of such a
size as to be easily carried by one man, as the transporta-
tion is performed alternately in boats and by portage,
and sent to all the posts throughout the country. Re-
cently, however, an additional depot has been established
on Vancouver's Island, north of the forty-ninth parallel,
called Victoria, which, probably, will become the princi-
pal one, as Vancouver is in the territory belonging to
the United States. The furs collected are all sent to
these two places, from which they are shipped dtrectly to
London, in vessels which arrive annually on the coast,
with the goods and other supplies necessary to carry on
the trade. Five or six ships of about three hundred tons
burthen, are constantly employed for this purpose, in
addition to several smaller craft which operate in the
rivers and along the coast. Among the latter, is one
steamboat, which is principally employed between Fort
Nezqualy, on Puget's Sound, and Stikine,"a post north of
the fifty-sixth parallel.
The number of forts and trading-posts occupied by the
company west of the Rocky Mountains, is twenty-two :—
Fort Vancouver, on the north side of the Columbia River,
ninety-five miles from the ocean, in north latitude forty-
five degrees and about forty minutes, and west longitude
122 degrees and 30 minutes ; this fort was established
in 1824, by Governor Simpson, and named after the dis-
tinguished navigator who was the secfuid to enter the
OREGON TERRITORY.
383
mouth of the Cohimbia, but the first to explore the river
as high up as the point of land on which Vancouver
stands : Fort George, formerly Astoria, situated on the
frroes and twenty-five minutes ; Fort McLaughlin, on Mill
Bank S-und, latitude fifty-two degrees ; Fort Simpson,
on Dundas Island, latitude fifty-four degrees and thirty
minutes ; Fort Stikine, on a river of the same name, lati-
tude fifty-six degrees and thirty minutes : this fort is
in the territory belonging to Russia, and, regardless of
the rights of the Russians, the Hudson's Bay Company
attempted, in 1834, to intrench themselves on the banks
of the Stikine, which had been recently discovered, and
abounded in the most valuable furs. Baron Wrangle,
who was then the Governor of the Russian American
possessions, having got wind of the project entertained
by the English to wrest from them this important point,
proceeded to the mouth of the river and fortified it by
erecting a block-house and stationing there a sloop of
war. The Russians had not been long in waiting before
a vessel "was discovered approaching the shore and bear-
ing the men and materials for the contemplated establish-
ment ; but, to their surprise, the British found a sloop
of war ready to dispute their passage into the river.
They were informed that to save themselves, their pro-
perty and their vessel, they must tack ship and return to
their own possessions. All appeals to trea 'as, and all
the fair promises of the English, were ine: ^ .tual ; the
Russians were inexorable, and the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany for once were foiled in their attempt, after having
spent in preparations the sum of twenty thousand pounds.
Subsequently they entered into a negotiation with the
Russians and proposed to purchase the right of trading
on the Stikine River, for a certain number of years. To
this the Russians listened favorably, and at length a bar-
gain was completed, in which the English bound them-
selves to pay to the Russians annually, for a term of
vears, a certain sum, to be paid in the produce of the
384
OREGON TF.RKITOHV.
1 :
f- !
extensive farm which the EiigHsh cuhivated on the Co-
lumbia River, connected with what they could procure
from the settlers in tlie country. On the conclusion of
tins contract the post was immediately occupied, a strong
fort erected, and munitions of war provided to defujid
the establishment against the hostile Indians by which it
is surrounded.
With the exception of Victoria on Vancouver's Island,
the forts and posts of the company are situated inland,
as follows : Frazer's Lake, McLeod's Lake, Fort George,
Alexandria, Chilcotins, Babine, and Bear's Lake, in thai
portion of the country called by the English, New Cale-
donia ; the posts of Walla- Walla, Okanagan, and Colville,
high up on the Columbia River ; the Flathead and Koota-
iiia post, between the two main branches of the Columbia ;
F^'ort Hall, near the Rocky Mountains and on the south
branch of the Columbia, and Umpqua post, situated in
latitude forty-three degrees and thirty minutes, on a river
of the same name, and about fifty miles from the ocean.
The company also liave two migratory trapping and
trading expeditions of between fifty and seventy-five men
each ; to the one is appropriated the country from the Co-
lumbia south to the Bay of San Francisco along the coast ;
the other explores the interior between the Columbia
and the head-waters of the Colorado and Sacramento.
The average annual value of the furs and peltrifs
derived from these territories, has been in the vicinitv of
one hundred and forty thousand dollars, for which have
been given about twenty thousand dollars worth of goods,
j)rime cost, the services of about five hundred men,
employed in various parts of the business, shipj)ing to
bring supplies and take back returns, with various other
incidental expenses. The net profits, however, arising
from the Columbia trade, according to the re))resenta-
tions of Dr. John McLaughlin, who is the su[)erintendent
of the afiairs of the Hudson's Bay Company, west of the
Rocky Mountains, have not usually amounted to more
than ten thousand dollars, the principal profits of the
trade being derived from countries not embraced in the
western department.
ORE(iON TEKKITOIIY.
386
various
it has always been tlie policy of the Hudson's Bay
Company to monopoHze tlie trade of those immense
regions in North America, occu})ied by civilized man,
and it has appeared destined to swallow up all other
commercial enterprises coming within its reach. With
this view, its posts have been pushed onward from time
to time, until every important point has been occupied
from Hudson's Bay to Puget's Sound, and its brigades
of boats have appeared on every navigable river of that
vast region, bearing British manufactures into the deepest
recesses of savage life, or, on their backward route,
loaded with furs for the great depository on the sea-
board. On every Indian trail have been seen the sure-
footed mule and the Indian mustang, reeling under bur-
dens of three hundred pounds, sometimes in troops of
scores, driven by a squadron of weather-beaten moun-
taineers, with their rifles before them, and their long
knives hanging at their belts ; now ascending the mighty
mountain chain ; now plunging to the bottom of the deep,
dark ravine ; now diving into the solitudes of the prime-
val forest, untrodden but by the feet of wild beasts, and
savages as wild as they, and now emerging upon the
extended prairies, calling, wherever the rising smoke
indicates, the presence of an Indian, and bartering the
wampum, the gaudy ribbon, the scarlet cloth, and the
Indian blankets, for the precious beaver, otter, and mar-
ten, until their supply of goods is exhausted, and their
animals loaded with the fruits of their toils. They
may be seen winding along the serpentine trail which
leads back to the grand depot, happy if their numbers
have not been diminished by the numerous casualties
incident to the business in which they are engaged. The
wonderful etlbrts of those who have controlled the desti-
nies of this company, and the indefatigable exertions of
the numercjus agents employed to promote its interests,
have succeeded, equal to the most sanguine expectations.
Possessed with inexhaustible resources, and sustained
with the most vigorous policy, they have been advancing
in a sure march of commercial concjuest. They have
left no posts behind them unsubdued, but wherever they
,S8fi
OKE(JON TF.RRITOnY.
have made an attack, thoy remain masters ot' the field.
Their concentration of capital and interest gives them a
decided advantage over the scattered capital of individual
merchants, and to this we may attribute a great shun!
of their success. A number of years ago they snccijcclcd
in ridding tlu'mselves of all American competition on tho
north-west coast, of which, until very re('ently, they have
enjoyed the undivided monopoly. And whether on the
coast or in the interior, wherever the Hudson's Bav
Com})any has placed its giant foot, there American trade
has been sure to decline.
Another feature of the policy of the company, i:; the
course which they have pursued in relation to colonizing
the country. They have always been opposed to its set-
tlement by any people except such as, by a strict subjec-
tion to the company, would become subservient to their
wishes. This has, doubtless, arisen from two circum-
stances : First, the fur-trade of Oregon has been rapidlv
declining for a number of years past, and the Hudson's
Bay Company are fully aware that this trade alone will
not be sufficient to sustain them in the country for many
years to come, and to abandon the country would involve
themselves in an immense loss. These liabilities they
wish to guard against by opening sources of wealth in
other branches of business, to be under their control.
Secondly, they have had in their employment, every
year, many hundreds of persons, consisting of Canadian
French, Hawaiians, half-breed Iroquois, and others, who
are under their absolute control, so long as they remain
in the Indian country. Many of these, from year to
year, either by having large families, by the decline of
the fur-trade, or by superannuation, become unprofitable
servants, and by the company are settled in various parts
of the country, where they support themselves, and be-
come, indirectly, a source of profit to the company.
They w^ished to preserve Oregon as an asylum for their
servants, on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, where
they could use them to advantage, in agricultural, pas-
toral, and manufacturing pursuits, when they could be
no longer serviceable to them in the business of the fur-
ORFtit»\ TIWIHITORY.
387
d
St
r
trade. That the company have comtemplated a rapi
decline, and probable teiinination of the iur-tradc, weiL
oi' the Rocky Mountains, appears tVoin the fact of thei,
having' been formed into a new comi)any, und(;r the name
of " J*uget's Sound Agricultural Company," with a capital
uf two million pounds. This company has prL'tend(Hi to
hold large tracts of land in the vicinity of Pugct's Sound,
iiiuler grants of letters patent from the English (govern-
ment ; and here they have attempted to establish a
colony, but without success.
This attempt was made in 1842. The half-breed
descendants of the gentlemen and servants of the Hud-
son's Bay Com[)any, had been collecting together in a
colony, on a small tract of fertile land lying on Red
river, east of the Rocky Mountains, for more than thirty
years, and so rapid was the increase of the colony, and
so limited the arable country on the Red river, that the
company resolved to send off a colony of the numerous
Scotch and English half-breed ssettled on that river, to
the shores of the Pa(ufic ocean. Accordingly, in 1842,
Sir George Simpson, who for many years has been the
resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, by
holding out the most flattering inducements, succeeded
in forming a colony of some thirty families, of which he
took the charge in person. Tliey left the Red river
settlement late in the spring, with their scanty supplies
packed upon the backs of mules and Indian ponies, and
passing through the stupendous gates of the Rocky
Mountains, they arrived on the borders of Puget's
Sound some time in the month of October. If the
fertility of the soil where they were planted by Sir
George, had corresponded with the picturesque beauty
of the face of the country, doubtless the colony would
have succeeded ; but in consecjuence of a total failure
of the crops the first year, the colonists abandoned the
place, contrary to the wishes of the company, and set-
tled in a more fertile portion of the country.
Two other settlements intended for the reception and
support of retiring servants of the company, have been
established in Oregon ; one in the valley of the Cowiiitz,
388
OREGON TERRITORY.
north of the lower Columbia, the other on the delightful
plains watered by the Wallamette river, south of the
Columbia. As interested motives first ind'iced the
comnany to establish these settlements, so it has always
been their policy to keep them in a state of absolute
dependciice. The colonists have not only been respon
sible to the company for the course of conduct they
have pursued, but from it alone, until \ery recently
they have been obliged to receive all their suppli^^'S of
foreign necestaries, consisting of clothing, groceries,
&c., for which they have been obliged to pay in the
produce of the soil, at prices to suit the avaricious pro-
pensities which have developed themselves in the whole
policy of the Hudson's Bay Company.
The oppressive measures adopted by the company, in
reference to these settlements, were such as to cause
them to languish for years, and to induce some of the
most active and enterprising among the settlers, to take
refuge in the United States.
Fort Vancouver, after it became the grand depot of
the company west of the mountains, was the most
important point occupied by them, and th ^ settlement
there established, differed from those alrea ^y described,
in the important particular, that every per m connected
with it, was in the immediate service of le company.
The fort, in 1845, consisted in a stockac^ , inclosing a
space of ground of about eight hundred ^eet long, and
five hundred broad, with a bastion at ' le corner, with
three gates in front, for ingr.^ss and f ^ress, and one in
the rear. In addition to the artillery counted in the
bastion, there were two eigh teen-pounders and two
swivels planted in front of the residence of the chief
factors, and commanding the principal entrance to the
fort.
Within this inclosure were situated some thirty build-
ings, serving as dwelling-houses, stores, magazines, and
work-shops. Near the fort are tiie buildings occupied
by the servants, as also a hospital, barns, and a large
boat-house. In the rear of the fort the company have
a splendid garden in the highest state of cultivation,
OREGON TERRITORY.
369
which produces all kinds of fruit for which the climate
IS adapted, such as apples, peaches, pears and crapes
Here is also cultivated a large farm of some three thou-
sand acres, producing wheat, barley, oats, peas, potatoes,
&c., m great abundance ; and herds of many thousands
of cattle are supported on the adjacent plains.
Connected with the fort, and about four miles distant,
up the Columbia, are a flouring-mill and saw-mill, which
have been in operation for several years.
At the head of this establishment stands Dr. John
MsLaughlin, and second to him is James Douglass, Esq.,
the former being a native of Canada, and the latter of
Scotland. These gentlemen, as far as social habits are
concerned, have acquired for themselves, and for the
company of which they are chief factors, an enviable
reputation for hospitality and kindness. Few persons,
whether coming by land or by sea, have ever visited
Vancouver without being received with a hospitality
which knew no bounds, until every want of the traveler
was supplied. Innumerable have been the favors con-
ferred by them upon the American missionaries, and
their assistance has been rendered at times when great
inconvenience, and even suffering, would have resulted
from neglect. For all these acts of kindness these gen-
tlemen, with many others at the various posts in the
country, equally as well disposed, are deserving of much
praise. But to particularize here would extend this
account beyond the Hmits originally marked out ; and I
shall therefore close this sketch of the history of the
Hudson's Boy Company, by presenting a few circum-
stances arid incidents illustrative of the perils of the
fur-trade, and of the character of those under-agents
employed to prosecute it.
The trading-post situated at the confluence of the
Thompson's and Frazer's river, had been long under
the superintendence of an English gentleman by the
name of Black, who, in view of many amiable qualities,
was in good repute among the gentlemen of the com-
pany, and had already risen to the office of chief trader.
By some means he had excited the jealousy of an Indian
390
OREGON TERRITORY.
chief belonging to a tribe residing in the vicinity of the
fort, upoti whom he had lavished many favors, but who
resolved to imbrue his hands in the blood of his bene-
factor.
One day, in 1842, the Indian came to the fort with
his musket in his hand, which probably Black had sold
him. The unsuspicious trader received him into the
fort, and even into his dwelling, without disarming him.
As the Indian appeared unusually friendly. Black became
uncommonly confiding. At length, to fulfil some request
which the Indian artfully made, he turned his back upon
him, and while retiring, his secret foe deliberately
brought his musket to his face, and taking a deadly aim,
fired, the bullet passing directly through his heart. He
fell ; and as the Indian saw him stretched upon his own
floor, weltering in his gore, he walked deliberately out
of the house, passed through the gate of the stockade,
and disappeared ,' and three years subsequently the In-
dian was still at large, and the crime unrevenged.
Ditierent was the closing scene of another tragedy,
acted the following year, on the Columbia river. A
half-breed Iroquois, by the name of McKay, was em-
ployed for the company, on the lower waters of the
Columbia, and resided in a small house on the north
shore of the river, where he kept the Indian goods with
which he carried on his trade. A few Indians of the
Chenook tribe, knowing him to be alone, proceeded to
his house, murdered him, and took possession of his
goods. A friendly Indian carried the news immediately
up to Vancouver, and an expedition was fitted out to
pursue and take the murderers. Armed with muskets,
they proceeded down the river, and at length came in
sight of a canoe filled with Indians, and were informed
that the murderers were in that canoe. They imme-
diately gave chase, and the suspicions of the Indians
being aroused, they also plied the paddle with all their
might, to keep at a safe distance from their pursuers.
Finding that the white men gained upon them, the
Indians run their canoe ashore ; but, as they were land
ing, they received a volley of musket balls, which
OREGON TERRITORY.
391
unfortunately killed one Indian woman, and wounded
some others, while the murderers, for the time beino-
made their escape. Dr. McLaughlin, of whom all the
Indians in the country stand in the greatest fear, sent
word to the Chenooks that they must deliver up the
principal instigator of the crime, or he would adopt
some other way to avenge the murder of McKay.
Fearing that the wrath of the company might burst
upon the whole tribe, every man became intent upon
delivering up the murderer. At last he was found far
north of the mouth of the Columbia, where he had se-
creted himself, and brought in triumph to Fort George,
and delivered up to the authorities of the Hudson's Bay
Company.
Dr. McLaughlin was present, and some thirty or forty
others, besides the Indians who had collected to see what
would be done. A trial was instituted, the Indian was
pronounced guilty of wilful murder, and sentenced to be
hung forthwith. A gallows was prepared, and one end
of a long rope thrown over the top of the gallows, and
tied around the Indian's neck. All the white men
present, with the exception of Rev. J. H. Frost, who
witnessed the scene, took hold of the other end of the
rope, the Indian standing like a statue under the gallows,
and, at a given signal, all pulled upon the rope, drawing
the Indian up so that his feet were some distance from
the ground. As his neck did not break, he merely
strangled ; but the mode of his death tilled the tribes
around with horror, and impressed every Indian with
a sense of the fearful character of the white man's
vengeance. This summary execution proved a salutary
lesson, especially to the Indians in the vicinity where it
took place.
In the prosecution of the fur-trade, it has frequently
been necessary for the members of the company to adopt
the most sanguinary measures against the Indians, in
order to secure their own safety and ultimate success.
Hundreds of their trappers and voyagers have fallen by
the ruthless hand of the savage, while pursuing their
game along the valleys, or scouring the mountain chains
392
OREGON TERRITORY.
of the west, and none have ever prosecuted this perilous
enterprise, who have not had repeated occasions to re-
venge the death of a comrade, perhaps a brother, or an
intimate friend. Out of the pale of the law, the fur-
traders became a law unto themselves, or rather adopted
such laws, from time to time, as the exigences of the
case required. At one of the forts, situated in the inte
rior, a servant of the company was murdered by an
Indian chief, who subsequently boasted that he had com-
mitted the deed. This chief belonged to a powerful
migratory tribe that, at the time of the murder, was
encamped in the vicinity of the fort, and, as he possessed
considerable influence in the tribe, and could rally around
him a large number of warriors, he concluded that the
few white men at the fort would not dare to molest him.
The commandant of the fort knowing that if this daring
crime remained unrevenged, there would be no safety
for the remainder of the whites, offered a heavv reward
to any Indian or white man that would take the life of
the murderer. Some time elapsed, and, as no one dared
to make the attempt, the murderer was still at large.
One dav it came to the ears of the commandant that the
murderer was in camp, and might be found in a certain
lodge at the farther extremity of the encampment. The
commandant, who had long waited with the deepest
anxiety for such an opportunity, seized his unerring rifle
and, secreting it under the folds of his cloak which he
had thrown around him, passed outside the stockade,
and taking a narrow trail which wound along among
the lodges, marched directly to the one where sat the
doomed, but unsuspecting, chief, surrounded by his com-
panions, and rehearsing his deeds of marvelous prowess
in iiis numerous fights with the men of Iving George.
Pulling aside the door of Buftalo skin, he stepped inside
the lodge and presented himself in full view of the as-
tonished Indians. He fixed his eye upon the well known
form of the murderer, and, without uttering a word, let
fall the folds of his cloak, and poising his rifle, aimed
directly at the murderer's heart. The Indian perceiving
that his hour had come, threw his arms above his head,
OREGON TERRITORY.
393
gave a horrid yell, fell backward and expired ; the
ball had pierced his heart. The commandant retraced
fiis steps unmolested back to the fort, leavinrr the Indians
thunderstruck with his astonishing bravery. He has
since been elevated to the important and honorable office
ol chief factor, to which, by long and faithful service, as
well as by every qualification of the gentleman, he is
justly entitled.
The incidents above related are not isolated, but have
been selected from many of a similar character, which
appear in the history of the Hudson's Bay Company.
Indeed, it has been necessary, in order to"^ succeed in
their enterprise, for this corjioration to carry forward
their operations in the wilds of Oregon by the terror of
arms. Their private trapping parties have frequently
been waylaid by tlie Indians and destroyed ; their trading
expeditions have often been obliged to fight their way
through hostile tribes, from one portion of the country
to another, or perish with starvation. Sometimes they
have left behind them a trail of butchered Indians, who
fell before their unerring rifles, and then have halted to
commit to a hasty grave the remains of a comrade, who
had fallen by a poisoned arrow, from the quiver of a
vengeful foe. Sometimes whole parties have been cut
off, and not a solitary parson left to bear to civilized man
the story of their tragic fate.
On one occasion, a party in the northern wilds, at the
head of which was the son of Sir George Simpson, was
attacked bv the Indians, and after killing a number of
their assailants, every soul perished. Young Simpson
owned a large grey-hound, which he had with him, and
which defended his master to the last extremity. In the
battle the hound received a musket ball in his leg, and
finding he could render his master no farther assistance,
effected his escape. Subsequently the remains of these
unfortunate men were found through the sagacity of the
faithful dog, which led persons to the spot where perished
his master and his comrades. Frequently the forts of
the company have been attacked by nunleroua bands of
saVacres, and it has required all the skill of the com-
17
394
OREGON TEftRITORY.
nn
mandant, and the hard fightinor of the men, to prevent
them from falHng into the hands of their foes. These
means have sometimes failed to repulse them, and forts
have been taken, pillaged and burned. Commandants
have been insulted, trampled upon, and murdered. And
it is not surprising that the company, in view of the im-
mense loss of life and property they have fron> time to
time sustained by their warlike and perfidious enemy,
should frequently take severe measures to awe them
into su!)mission. This they have done by sending out
war parties to attack indiscriminately the otfending tribe \
and frecjuently in these excursions, women and children
have been the greatest suHerers, Individual cases have
doubtless transpired, where Indians have been wantonly
butchered and their property seized by the servants of
the company, but the company cannot be held responsi-
ble for the outrages committed by individuals, unless it
can be shown that the individuals are authorized by the
company to commit them. Whoever has been intimately
acquainted with the Hudson's Bay Company, and has
observed its operations for any length of time, must be
aware that the policy pursued by them with reference
to the Indians, is one of the greatest forbearance and
conciliation, and that they never resort to severe mea-
sures except when robberies are committed, their servants
murdered, or the safety of the company is at stake.
Perhaps no calling under the sun, whale-fishing not
excepted, is more perilous than the fur-trade, or in which
a greater proportion of those who engage in it lose their
lives. The following incident is illustrative of the cha-
racter of many of the under servants employed by the
company, at the various forts in the country of the
Columbia : —
In the summer of 1842, Sir George Simpson, who is
at the head of the affairs of the Hudson's Bay Company,
in America, and who resides at Red river, east of the
Rocky Mountains, in one of his exploring tours, arrived
at Vancouver, and thence in a ship, proceeded up the
north-west coast to a fort of the company, situated at
Stikien, for the purpose oi investigating the caSe of th^i
OREGON TKKRITORY.
395
er, east of the
murder of John McLaughlin, Jr., which took place in the
previous April. The murder of this gentleman had pro-
the country, particularly
" the
iit;f
duced great excitement in
among the servants of the company, on account of th
decreased being the son of Dr. John McLau-hlin, chit-
liK'lor, and superintendent of the atiairs of the comoaii
V
been
west of the Rocky Mountains, and of his havin^
killed by the servants of the company, and not by Indians
who are the usual actors in such bloody scenes. It luid
been reported, and after he had investigated the matter
It was believed by Sir George Simpson, that the mur-
derers had been influenced to (commit the deed by the
eruel and overbearing conduct of the deceased towards
them, he being at the head of the company's buF^iiu^ss in
tliat place ; that they had previously stolen ihnn the
fort several bottles of'ardent spirits, of which they mndc
a free use on the night of the murder, to render them-
selves as desperate as possible, and to nerve themselves
for the accomplishment of their sanguinary purposes. It
appears from the testimony given, that every individual
belonging to the establishment under the direction of
Mr. McLaughlin, had mutually bound themselves to
accomplish his destruction. And, as no evidence could
be procured, except from interested persons, whose object
would be to secure themselves, it might be expected that,
in the first investigation by Sir George Simpson, the
interested party would attempt to make it appear that
the killing of Mr. McLaughlin was no more than a justi-
fiable homicide. Accordingly, when Sir George returned
to Vancouver, he expressed this view of the subject, as
Dr. McLaughlin informs the writer, and stated that the
deceased was a quarrelsome, drunken fellow, and had
unmercifully beaten his men from time to time, and by
his cruelty and wickedness had procured his own death.
A subsequent investigation seems to throw more light
upon this affair ; and as second-hand report is not always
to be credited, I solicited permission to examine the
original depositions, which were readily put into my
hands by the afflicted and venerable father of the unfor-
tunate man, who is the subject of this short sketch.
306
OREGON TERRITORY.
Pierre Kanaquassee, one of the men employed in the
establishment at the time of the murder, and in whose
testimony the gentlemen of the company place the
utmost reliance, gives the following narrative, in answer
to questions proposed by James Douglass, Esq., the
magistrate that examined him : —
Q. Where were you on the night of the murder of
the late Mr. John McLaughlin 1
A. I was in my room, in the lower part of the main
house, where I lived with George Heron, in an apart-
ment in the lower story, immediately under the kitchen.
My door opened into the passage which led to the
apartment of Mr. John McLaughlin in the second story.
Q. What oc(!urred on the night of the murder ?
A. 1 will tell you the whole story to the best of my
recollection.
A few days preceding the murder, five Indians from
Tako, with letters from Dr. Kennedy, arrived at the
fort about midnight. The watchmen hearing the knock-
ing, called Mr. John. When he got up, he mustered a
few hands to defend the gates in case of any treacherous
attack from the Indians, whom they did not, as yet,
know. They w^ere then admitted into the fort, delivered
up their arms according to custom, and were lodged in
a small room in the lower story of the main house A
day or two after this, he beat, and put one of these
Indians, a native of Nop, in irons, as Peter was told, lor
having committed some theft in Tako. About eight
o'clock of the evening of the 20th of April, Mr. John gave
li(pior to the Indians, and made them drunk ; after which
he called the white men, viz: Laperti, Pripe, Lulnire, Ue-
roux, Bellinger, Simon, Fleury, McPherson, Smith, and
Antoine Kawanope. During this time, Peter was in his
own, which was the adjoining room, lying awake in bed,
and overheard all that passed. He heard Mr. John say
to McPherson, *' Peter is not among us — where is he I"
McPherson replied, that he was in bed, and he was sent
for him, by Mr. John. Peter in consequence went inti)
the room and saw all the men seated in a ring, on th >
door, around a number of bottles staiKling within tlu
OREGON TERRITORY.
397
ring, and the Indians lying dead drunk on another part
of the floor. Mr. John himself was standing outside of
the ring, and McPherson placed himself on the opposite
side of the ring ; neither of them appeared to be par-
taking of the festivities of the evening, but were looking
on, and forcing the people to drink. Antoine Kawanopee
was seated on his bed, apart from the other men, per-
fectly sober, as he told Peter afterward. Mr. John had
ordered him not to drink, observing, " You are not to
drink at this time, as I am going to die to-night, and you
will help me in what I am going to do." On entering
the room, Mr. John told Peter to sit down with the other
people, and ordered his servant Fleury to give him a good
dram, which he did in a tin-pan. Peter could not drink
the whole, and was threatened by Mr. John with vio-
lence if he did not finish it. He succeeded in emptying
the pan, by allowing the liquor to run into the bosom of
his shirt. Mr. John, in doing this, did not appear to be
angry, but in a half playful mood. Peter remained there
about a quarter of an hour, during which time he was
careful not to drink too much, as a few hours previously
Antoine had called at his room and said, " My Uncle,
take care of yourself to-night ; the master is going to die."
Peter said, " Who is going to kill him 1" and Antoine
said, " The Bluemen," meaning the Kanakas, "are going
to kill him." This, Peter thought, was likely to be the
case, as the men, some time before Christmas preceding,
had agreed among themselves to murder him, and had
signed a paper, which McPherson drew up to that effect.
Every one of the men of the place agreed to the commis-
sion of this deed. Smith and Heron, iis well others.
Peter's name was signed by McPherson and he attested
it by his cross. This paper was signed in Urbaine's
house, where the men severally repaired by stealth for
the purpose, as Mr. John kept so vigilant a watch upon
them, that they were afraid he might suspect their inten-
tions, if they were there in a body. The sanie impres-
sion made him also remark, in a low tone of voice, to
Laperti, on his first entering the room, when he observed
Mr. John forcing the people to drink, " I really beheve
«!
398
ORKOON TERRITORY.
our master feels his end near, as he never used to act in
this manner."
As above mentioned, after Peter had been about fifteen
minutes in the room where the men were drinking, Mr.
John retired, followed by Antoine. Mr. John hud not
on that occasion drank any thing with the men, neither
did he (Peter) ever see him at any time jjreceding, drink
in their company. He, however, supposed that ho must
have taken something in his owni room, as ho ai)pcared
flushed and excited, but not suflicicntly so as to render
his gait in the least unsteady. McPherson also did not
taste any thing in the room. As soon as Mr. John was
gone, Peter also left the room, and went to bed in his
own room.
Peter was informed by Antoine that Mr. John, on
leaving the room where the men were drinking, went
up stairs to his own apartment, and he heard him say to
his wife, " I am going to die to-night.'' And he and his
wife both began to cry. Mr. John soon rallied, and
observed, " Very well, if 1 die, I must fall like a man."
He then told Antoine to load his rifles and pistols, and
ordered him also to arm himself with his own gun. Ho
and Antoine then went out, and Peter thinks he heard
the report of more than fifteen shots. Antoine after-
wards told Peter that Mr. John fired at Laperti, but
missed him, and afterwards ordered Antoine to fire at
Laperti. Antoine refused to do so, until his own lite
was threatened by Mr. John, when he fired in the direc-
tion, without aiming at Laperti. He also told the Kana-
kas to kill the Canadians, and it was in part them who
fired the shots that he ^Peter) had hoard. Peter then
got up and placed himself behind his door, and saw Mr.
John come in and go up stairs with Antoine, when he
took the opportunity of going out, armed with his gun
and a stout bludgeon, and found the men standing here
and there on the gallery watching an opportunity to
shoot Mr. John. Laperti's position on the gallery was
fronting the door of the main house, towards which he
had his gun pointed ; when Peter saw him, he was on
his knees, the small end of the gun resting on the top
ORKOON TERRITOnV.
:)99
rail of the gallery, in readiness to fire. Laporti ex-
claimed on seeing Peter, " 1 must kill him now, as he
has fired two shots at me." Peter objected to this and
proposed to take and tie him, No])ody answered him.
At that moment, Smith came up to Laporti and told him
to hide himself or he would certainly be killed. Laporti
said, ''Where can I hide mys(^lf (" And Sn)ith said,
" Come with me and 1 will show you a i)Iaco in the bastion
where you can hide yourself," and tlioy wiMit ott' together
in the direction of tiie bastion at the corner of Urbaine's
house. Peter, after a few minutes' stay on the gallery,
returned to his house, as he had previously agreed upon
with George Hebram, who was lying sick in bed, and
who had entreated hini not to leave him alone. At the
door of the main house, he met Mr. John coming out,
followed by Antoine, whj was carrying a lamp. Mr.
John said to Peter, *' Have you seen Laperti I " Peter
answered, " No, J have not seen him." And then Mr.
John said, " Have you seen Urbaine ] " And Peter
again answered that he had not. The minute before
this, as he (Peter) was returning from the gallery, he
had seen Urbaine standing at the corner of the main
house, next to Urbaine's own dwelling, in company with
Simon. Urbaine said, ^'I don't know what to do ; I
have no gun, and do not know where to hide myselC"
Simon said, '' I have a gun, if he comes I will shoot him,
and will be safe." Mr. John, after Peter passed him,
said to Antoine, " Make haste, and come watli the lamp,"
and i)roceeded with a firm step to Urbaine's house, as
Peter, who continued watching at the door, saw. After
he saw them go to Urbaine's house, he proceeded towards
his own room, and he and Antoine called out, " Fire !
fire ! " The report of several shots, probably five, im-
mediately followed, and he heard Antoine exclaiming,
" Stop ! stop ! stop ! He is dead now." Antoine after-
wards related to Peter, that on reaching Urbaine's house,
Mr. John ordered him to go round by one corner, while
he went round by the other, directing Antoine to shoot
any of the Canadians he might meet. Mr. John then
proceeded in a stooping position, looking very intently
400
OREGON TERKfTOUV.
|H„:i
before him, vvlien a shot was fired from llie corner of the
house towards which he was going, which caused his
deatli, the hall having (entered at tlie ujjper part of the
breast-bone, a little below the gullet, and came out ;i
little below the shoulder, having broken the spine in its
j)assagt;. Peter was also told by one of the Kanakas,
that as soon as Mr. John fell, Urbaine sprung forwani
from the corner of the house within a few paces of the
body, and put his fool savagcdy on his neck, as if to
complete the act, should tin: ball have failed in causing
death. The Kanakas inuncdiately aski;d Urbain(3, who had
killed the master ( Urbaine replied, " It is none of your
business who has killed him ! Peter, who during this
time had removed to Iris house, seeing Herron go out
without his gun, went out round the body and said,
** My friend, we have now done what we long intended
to do ; let us now carry the body back to the house."
Urbaine, Lai)erti, Bellinger, and other white men who
were present, replied, " When we kill a dog, we let him
lie where we kill him." And Antoine told him they liad
previously given him the same reply to a similar propo-
sition from him. Peter then approached the body and,
with one hand under the neck, raised the Ivad and trunk,
when a deep expiration followed, which was the last
sign of animation, lie had previously perceivcil no signs
of life, nor did he hear any one say that ;uiy appisuud
after the deceased fell. The white men beinn; iui\villin<'"
to assist him, he carried the body, witii tiie uid of the
Kanakas, into the main house, where he had it stripped,
washed clean, decently dressed, and laid out. In doing
so he received no help from any but the Kanakas. The
wounds made by the balls were very large, both open-
ings being circular, and severally three inches in diame-
ter. The body bled profusely, there being a deep pool
of blood found around it, which was washed awav after-
wards by the Kanakas. Peter never iieard that he spoke
or moved after he fell. There was a per})endicu]ar cut
on the forehead, skin-deep, in a line witli the nose, which
Peter thinks was caused by his falling on the barrel of
his rifle, though Urbaine said that he had received it
OREGON TERRITORY.
401
from an Indian with his dog. It was as Peter supposes
about eleven o'clock, p. m., when he had done washing
and laying out the body ; the watches had not then been
changed, therelore he thinks it could not be midnight.
The people continued coming and going during the night,
to see the body, and Peter projibsed praying over the
body, as is customary in Canada; but they objected,
saying, they did not wish to pray for him. He did sit
up with the body all night, having soon after gone, first
to Urbaine's and then to Lulaire's house, who each gave
him a dram, which he took, saying, "There is no need of
drinking now ; they might drink their fill now." He soon
afterwards went to bed.
He inquired of Martineau, who also lived in the same
room, if he had fired at the deceased. He replied, that
he had fired twice. He then asked him if it was he
that had killed him, and he said, I do not know if it was
me or not. He (Peter) put the same question to several
of the other men whom he saw afterwards ; they all
said that they had not shot him, and Martineau after-
wards said that he had not directed his gun at him, but
had fired in the air.
The following morning he asked Antoine Kawanope
if he knew who had killed the deceased. He replied,
"I know who killed him, but I am not going to tell you,
or any one else. When the governor comes, I will tell
him. He asked Antoine why he would not tell ; he
said he was afraid it might cause more quarrels, and
lead to other murders. He then advised Antoine not
to conceal it from him, as he would tell no one. An-
toine then said, he thought it was Urbaine who had done
the deed. Peter observed that Urbaine had no gun.
Antoine replied, " 1 think it was Urbaine, because as soon
as the deceased fell, Urbaine rushed out from his lurking
place at the corner of the house, where, I was informed
by the people, he always kept his gun secreted, with the
intention of shooting the deceased." Peter says Laperti,
Urbaine and Simon were all concealed in the corner
whence the shot came, and he thinks it to be one of the
three who fired it. Urbaine always denied having com-
17*
-fi
402
OREGON TERRITORY.
mitted the murder, and said, *' I am going to the Russian
Fort for trial, and will be either banished or huns:. I
will let the thing go to the end, and will then inform
upon the murderers."
Simon always said that he was never in the corner
from whence the shot tvas fired, and knew nothing about
the matter ; but Peter thinks that he must have been
there, as he saw him, as before related, at the corner of
the main house, when he promised to protect Urbaine,
and from the situation of the fort, he must have passed
that spot with Urbaine, as. there was no other passage
from the place where they had been standing. Laperti
also said he never fired at all. When Peter, as before
related, went upon the gallery after the first firing had
ceased, while Mr. J'-'hn and Antoine had gone into the
house, he saw all the men on the gallery, except Pripe,
Lulaire and McPherson, and he asked each of them,
respectively, if they were going to shoot the master thui
night, and they all answered, (as well as himself,) they
would do so at the first chance, except Pehou, a Kanaka,
who would not consent to the murder. Smith was then
without a gun.
Before the Christmas preceding Peter put the ques-
tion to Smith, how he should like to see him kill Mr.
John ? He replied, " I should like it very well ; I would
have no objection, because his conduct is so very bad
that he can never expect to be protected by the Com-
pany." Peter Manifree says, that Mr. John appeared
to be aware of the plot form.ed by the men against his
life, as he supposes, through the information of Fleury,
his servant, who was aware of every thing that passed
among them. Mr. John had often said to the men,
" Kill me, if you can. If you kill me, you will rot kill
a woman -you will kill a man." And he kept Antoine
as a sentinel to watch his room. One evening George
Herron proposed taking his life, and said if he could find
a man to go with him, he would be the first to shoot
him. Peter refused to go, and Herron watched a great
part of the night in the passage leading to Mr. John's
room, holding his gun pointed towards its door, with the
OREGON TERRITORY.
40S
object of shooting Mr. John if he appeared, as he usually
did at night when going to visit the watchmen ; but he
did not go out that night, or Peter thinks that he would
have been shot by Herron. The following morning
Peter asked Antoine if he would defend Mr. John, were
he attacked by the people. Antoine said he would not,
and would be the first man to seize or shoot him, should
any attempt be made agdnst his life or liberty. He put
the same question to McPherson ; but McPherson said,
" No ! Do not kill him till the Governor comes, by and
by, and then we shall have redress."
Peter also says that all the unmarried men were in
the habit of secretly going out of the fort at night, con-
trary to order, to visit the Indian camp, and that one
evening when he wished to go out, he met George
Herron on the gallery, who showed him where a rope
was slung to the picket, by which he might let himself
down to the ground outside of the fort, saying, " This is
the way I and others get out, and you may do the same
without fear of detection." On the morning after the
murder he went into Urbaine's and Lulaire's house and
got a dram in each of them, out of two bottles of rum
which he saw there. He said, now Mr. John is dead, I
shall go out of the fort and spend the day with my wife.
Urbaine replied, " No ! No one shall go out of the fort.
We keep the keys, and we shall keep the gates shut."
Peter was i -gry at this and said to Antoine, "When
Mr. John was alive, he kept us prisoners, and would not
allow us to run after women ; and now that we have
killed him, the Canadians wish to keep us as close as he
did. I see we must raise the devil again with these
Canadians, before we can ^et our liberty."
Peter also says that one principal cause of their dislike
to John, and their plots against his life, was the strictness
with which he prevented their sallying from the fort in
quest of women ; that he flogged Martineau for haying
given his blanket to a woman wdth whom he maintained
illicit commerce, and he also flogged Lamb and Kakepe
for giving away their clothes in the same manner. 1 his,
Peter says, exasperated the men.
404
OREGON TERRITORY.
The day after the murder many of the men wont up
to Mr. John's room to see the body, and McPherson
remarked to them, that when the master was living they
were not in the habit of coming up there ; but they did
so now that he was dead. On hearing this, Peter and
Urbaine went away and never returned. On their way
to their own house, they met Pripe and Bellinger.
Urbaine told them what McPherson had said, and in
a' threatening manner said, " McPherson is getting proud
as the other, and will be telling tales about us. We will
not murder him, but we will give him a sound thrashing."
And Peter says that he soon after went to Smith and
told him to put McPherson on his guard, as the Cana-
dians intended to attack him. Smith asked Peter what
he would do, now the master was dead, and Peter said he
would obey McPhersons orders. Smith replied, " That
is good, Peter. If we do not do so, we shall lose all our
wages." All the Canadians, and, he thinks, Simon, con-
tinued drinking the whole of the day following the mur-
der ; the other men of the fort, did not drink. lie thinks
it was the remains of the liquor they had been drinking
the preceding night. Peter also says that, for a month
previous to the murder, Urbaine, Lapcrti and Simon
were in the habit of getting drunk every night on rum
purchased from the Indians. Peter told them to lake
care of themselves, because Mr. John would be ano^rv if
he knew^ it. Mr. John took no notice of their conduct,
because, as Peter thinks, he knew of the plot against his
life, and felt intimidated. He also says that Laperti was
excited against Mr. John on account of a suspected in-
trigue which he carried on with his wife. The niuht
following the murder, they all went to bed quietly. The
next day all was also quiet, and all work suspended,
except watching the Indians, which they did very closely,
as they were afraid they might be induced to attack the
fort, on learning that the master was no more. They
continued watching turn-a-bout. The second day a colFiii
was made, and the corpse removed from the main house
to the bath, when McPherson gave the men a dram.
The third day the corpse was buried and the men hind
OREGON TEUttlTORY.
405
another dram. He does not know whether the men
asked for the dram, or whether McPherson gave it of his
own accord. The corpse was carried to the grave by
Laperti, Pripe, Luclaire and some Kanakas, but Urbaine
did not touch it; does not think it was through fear.
Peter often heard Laperti say, I wish the Governor was
here, to see what he would do. He also says there was
no quarrel in the room where they were drinking, on the
night of the murder; but he thinks there might have
been a quarrel after they left, as Pripe was put in irons
after that time. He also says that the Canadians must
have fixed on that night to murder him, and that Fleury
told him so, which accounts for his apparent dejection of
mind, and of his having shed tears in presence of his wife
and Antoine, when he said, *' I know that I am going to
die this night." He also thinks this might have led to
the outbreak, but of this he is not sure. It is a mere
matter of opinioij. Mr. John was a little in liquor, but
knew perfectly well what he was about. He never saw
him so far gone with liquor as not to be able to walk
actively about, except on one occasion, the precediug
Christmas Eve, when he appeared to walk unsteady, but
nevertheless could mount the gallery. They only knew
he had tasted liquor from the excitement and changed
appearance of his countenance. He does not know who
first suggested the idea of murdering Mr. John.
Since the above disclosures were made, a few other
facts have come to light, which, however, do not mate-
rially effect the character of these atrocities. Mr. John
McLaughlin, Ji., was doubtless intemperate, reckless, and
tyrannical, and often unnecessarily cruel in the punish-
ments inflicted upon his men ; but he was surrounded by
a set of desperadoes, who, for months before the ari-i\ul
of the night, during the darkness of which, the fatal shot
ushered him into the presence of his Judge, had been
seeking an opportunity to rob him of life. Some time
before this event, he flogged Peter for the crime of
stealing fish- Peter was exceedingly angry, and resolved
upon the destruction of his master. At a time to suit his
purpose, he went to the bastion, where were fire-arms,
406
OREGON TFRRITORY.
loaded to his hands, and rung the bell of alarm, with the
intention of shooting Mr. McLaughlin when he should
make his appearance. A man by the name of Perse,
came out to see what was the matter, instead of the
intended victim, when Peter fired, but missed him, the
ball hitting a post near his head. For this offence, Peter
was again seized, put in irons, and subsequently severely
Hogged and liberated. Nearly all the men had been flog-
ged from time to time, for various offences, and all con-
spired against the life of their master. As might have
been expected, when the case was examined by Sir
George Simpson, the murderers attempted to cast all the
odium upon Mr. McLaughlin, doubtless for the purpose
of exculpating themselves, in which attempt they but too
well succeeded, in the estimation of Sir George. Whether
the persons who procured his death, would be pronounced,
by an intelligent jury, guilty of wilful murder, or whether,
from the mitigating circumstances connected with these
transactions, the verdict should assume a more modified
form, is not for me to determine. But it cannot be denied
by any one, that the circumstances must be indeed extra-
ordinary, that will justify any man, or set of men, to cut
short the probation of an immortal being, and usher him,
with all his unrepented sins, into the presence of his God.
CHAPTER XX.
Oregon territory — History continued -Mr. Ashley's expedition - Smith, Jackson, and
Sublette — Rocky Mountain Fur Company — Interesting journey — Country explored
— Independent parlies — Boneville — Red Wolf— Captain Wyeih - Opposed by H.
B. C, — Results — Immigration for settlement — Character of population — Sources
whence 't proceeds — Enterprise — Portions of countvy occupied.
For eight years after the surrender of Astoria to the
British, and the destruction of the Pacific Fur Company,
in 1811, a British corporation held undisputed sway
over the wilds of Oregon. Hordes of English trappers
scoured its mountain chains upon their fleet horses, and
ransacked its deepest valleys, while the Americans,
worsted in the affair of Astoria, confined their operations
on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. The North
American Company, of which Mr. Astor was also the
head, explored the country of the great Lakes, the head-
waters of the Mississippi, the Missouri, and had estab-
lished posts high up on the Yellow Stone, when another
company was organized, in 1822, under the name of the
Columbia Fur Company, with the design of extending its
operations into those western regions hitherto under the
monopoly of the Hudson's Bay Company. Accordingly,
in the spring of 1823, Mr. W. H. Ashley, of St. Louis,
fitted out an expedition for the Oregon country, crossed
the Rdcky Mountain chain, between the sources of the
Platte and Colorado, near the forty-second parallel, ob-
tained a large amount of furs, and, in the fall, transported
them in saSty to St. Louis. In the following year he
returned across the mountains with about one hundred
men, whom he left in the country to hunt and trap ;
and, although they were opposed by the Hudson's Bay
408
OREGON TERRITORY.
Company in every way, yet the furs collected by them
in three years, amounted to the sum of one hundred and
eighty thousand dollars. In these first expeditions of
Ashley from St. Louis, the goods were all transported
on the backs of horses ; but in 1827, he sent sixty men
across the mountains with a piece of cannon drawn by
mules, which was planted in the vicinity of the great
Salt Lake, or Lake Yauta, which lies south of the forty-
second parallel ; and, after collecting the furs, and dis-
tributing supplies among the hunters, they returned to
Missouri, havnig been absent just seven months.
In 18*26, a company was formed in St. Louis by
Messrs. Smith, Jackson and Sublette, and, having sub-
sequently purchased Mr. Ashley's establishments and
hiterests, they carried on a successful trade with the
countries of the Columbia, under the name of the Rocky
Mountain Fur Company. The first expedition with
wagons to the Rocky Mountains was made by this
company in 1829, and as an account of it will serve to
show both the mode and the route usually pursued by the
emigrants at the present day, I subjoin the following,
which appeared in connection with President Jackson's
Message in 1831 ;
"On the 10th of April last, (1829,) we set out from
St. Louis with eighty-one men, all mounted on mules,
ten wagons, each drawn by five mules, and two dv.nr-
borns, (light carriages or carts,) each drawn by one
mule. Our route was nearly due west to the western
limits of the State of Missouri, and thence along the
Santa Fe trail, about fortv miles from which the cDiirse
was some degrees north of west, across the watiMS ot
the Kansas, and up the great Platte River to the Rocky
Mountains, and to the head of Wind River where it
issues from the mountains. This took us until the 16th
of July, and was as far as we wished to go with the
wagons, as the i'urs to be brought in were to be collected
at this place, which is, or was this year, the great ren-
dezvous of the persons engaged in that business Here
the wagons (Jould easily have crossed the mountains, it
being what is called the Southern Pass had it been
OKKOON TERHITORY.
409
> be collected
desirable for thern to do so, which it was not for the
reasons stated. For our support at leaving the Missouri
settlements, until we should get into the buflalo country
we drove twelve head of cattle besides a milch cow!
Eight of these only being required for use before we got
to the buflaloes, the others went on to the head of Wind
River. We began to fall in with buffaloes on the Platte,
about three hundred and fifty miles from the white set-
tlements, and from that time lived on buffaloes, the
quantity being infinitely beyond what we needed. On
the 4th of August, the wagons bein^ in the mean time
loaded with the furs which had been previously taken,
we set out on our return to St. Louis. All the high
points of the mountains then in view were white with
snow ; but the passes and valleys, and all the level
country, were green with grass. Our route back was
over the same ground nearly as in going out, and we
arrived at St. Louis on the 10th of October, bringing
back the ten wagons, four of the oxen, and the milch
cow, as we did not need them for provisions. Our men
were all healthy during the whole time ; we suffered
nothing from the Indians, and had no accident, but the
death of one man, being buried under a bank of earth
that fell in upon him, and another crippled at the same
time. Of the mules we lost but one by fatigue, and two
horses stolen by the Kansas Indians ; the grass being
along the whole route, going and coming, sufficient for
the support of the horses and mules. The usual weight
in the wagons w^as about one thousand eight hundred
pounds. The usual progress of the w^agons was from
fifteen to twenty-five miles per day. The country being
almost all open, level and prairie, the chief obstructions
were ravines and creeks, the banks of which required
cutting down, and for this purpose a few pioneers were
^^enerally kept in advance of the caravan. This is the
fiist time that wagons ever went to the Rocky Moun-
tains, and the ease and safety with which it was done,
prove the facility of communicating overland with the
Pacific Ocean. * The route from the Southern Pass,
where the wagons stopped, to the Great Falls of the
1 1.
410
OKKiSON TEHKITOHY.
Columbia, being easier and better than on this side of
the mountains, with grass enough for the horses and
mules ; but a scarcity of game for the support of
men.
This company continued its operations for a number
of years, and its agents explored the whole country
from St. Louis, by the way of Taos and Santa Fe, to
the Bay of San Francisco ; thence along the coast of
the Pacific north to the mouth of the Columbia ; and all
the vast interior from Fort Vancouver to the counlry
of the Blackfeet and Sioux was faithfully examined ;
but, in consequence of the deadly hostility of the Indian
tribes, and the direct and unbending 0])position of the
great English monopoly, the company withdrew from
the territories west, and for years has confined its ope-
rations on the east side of the Rocky Mountains.
The above named are the principal Ameiican compa-
nies which have extended their operations west of the
Rocky Mountains, since the famous expedition of Astoria,
under the direction of Wilson Price Hunt. Several
independent parties of adventurers, however, have, from
time to time, turned their backs upon civilization, and,
some actuated by curiosity, and others by the love of
gain, have traced the waters of the rivers which flow
westward, to the Pacific ocean ; and after spending
years among the Indians, have returned to the world
information concerning the regions hitherto but little
known, which they had explored.
In 1832, Captain Bonneville, of the United States
Army, led a band across the Rocky Mountains, of more
than one hundred men, and remained in the country
drained by the Snake river and its branches for two
years, employed in the collection of furs. The adven-
tures of this intrepid officer have been made known by
Washington Irving, and need not be repeated here.
Suffice it to say tfiat when the writer visited the coun-
try of the Snake river, in 1842, an incident of Bonne-
ville's experience in that country, was related to him by
Red Wolf, an Indian chief of the Nez Perce tribe.
Bonneville had met with the most violent opposition
ORR€iON TERR iron Y.
411
from the Hudson's Bay C'ompany, in his trade, and in
attempting to leave a portion of the country where
every thing, even, to the ganio, appeared to be under
their control, he and his party, which, by desertion and
other causes, had been greatly reduced, lost their way,
and wandered without food for three days and nights.
At length, in a state of starvation, they fell in withRed
Wolf and his party on the Snake or Lewis river, and
the chief received them kindly, and treated them with
the best which his means afforded, which was the tlcsh
of a fat horse, which he killed for that purpose. After
giving them this timely relief, he prevailed upon them to
tarry with him a few days, and recruit their exhausted
strength. They accepted of his kind offer, and were
astonished at their departure, on being supplied by their
hidian benefactor with provisions to take with them, and
a guide to conduct them on to their proper route.
About the same time that Bonneville was making his
transit across the Rocky Mountains, Mr. Nathaniel
Wyeth, of Massachusetts, was endeavoring to establish
a direct trade between the United States and the Co-
lumbia river. In addition to the fur-trade, Wyeth had
in view the establishment of a salmon-fishery in Oregon,
from which he hoped to receive considerable profits.
With these views he dispatched a vessel around Cape
Horn, to the Columbia, and led two expeditions across
the continent, the first in 1832, and the second in 1834.
To facilitate his operations. Captain Wyeth formed two
trading stations, one in the south-east corner of Oregon,
near the junction of the river Portneuf with the Snake
or Lewis river, called Fort Hall, and the other on Wap-
pato Island, near the entrance of the Wallamette into
the Columbia, and about seventy miles from the Pacific
ocean, called Fort William. These forts were advan-
tageously situated for trade, but in consequence ol the
numerous disasters which happened to the company, but
principally on account of the unrelenting hostility of the
Hudson's Bay Company to all American enterprise in
Oregon, Wyeth was obliged to relinquish his expedition
and Fort Hall and Fort William fell into the hands of
'IV
I
41-2
OREGON TERRITORY.
that monopoly. Scores ot* lives were lost in Wyeth's
expedition ; several men were drowned, but more killed
by the Indians. Wyeth continued his effort to establish
the trade for three years, and it is said that, at the close
of that time, of two hundred men whom he had led into
Oregon, but forty were known to be alive, all the rest
having fallen victims to the dangers incident to the fur-
trade.
This enterprise, though failing in its primary objects,
was of great service, not only to the IJnited States in
furnishing important information respecting the territo-
ries of the Columbia, but also to Oregon itself in intro-
ducing the first American settlers, in assisting the tirst
American missionaries across the Rocky Mountains, and
in opening the way for future emigrations to the fertile
plains of that distant country.
Though a number of persons, Americans and Canadian
French, who accompanied the first exploring nnd com-
mercial expeditions across the mountains, had pi'eviously
taken up their residence in Oregon, yet the firs* emigra-
tions for the purpose of settlement, were made in 1832.
To a proper understanding of the character of the present
population of Oregon, it will be necessary to considei the
sources whence it has sprung.
Probably a more heterogeneous mass of human kind
cannot be found in any land, than have sought an asylum
in the wilds of Oregon. Here are found the Indian, who
is the legitimate proprietor of the soil, Englishmen,
Scotchmen, Irishmen, Americans, Germans, Prussians,
Italians, Spanish, Frenchmen, Danes, Canadians, Ila-
waiians, Otehietans, and Africans. From continual inter-
marriages with one another, and particularly with the
natives of the country ever since white men first visited
these shores, an amalgamated population has been pro-
duced, presenting every variety of color, disposition, and
(character of which the human species is capable. The
English, Scotch, French, and some others, have princi-
pally been introduced into the country through the in-
strumentality of the Hudson's Bay Company. Many of
these still belong to the company, and occupy various
OREGON TKRniTORY.
413
«tations, from those of servants and elorks up throLurh
(he various grades of office to the chief factors and iii-
(>enntendents. Others, who were formerly the servants
nf the company, becoming in some eases superaimuated,
in others unprofitable, have been dismissed ; and the
company chose rather to settle them in the country and
continue to exercise a controling influence over them,
than to return them to the lands when(;e they came!
The numbers which have sprung from this source, and
are now residents of the wilderness, amount to nearly
two thousand souls.
Many persons' have found their way to Oregon from
the numerous vessels which have to'uchcid at various
points along its extended coast. Scarcely a ship has
visited the Columbia for years, from which two or more
have not made their escape, and, secreting themselves
until the vessel has left, they have come forth to mingle
with the inhabitants as citizens of Oreii^on. Some have
deserted their ships on the coast of California, and have
fought their way to the valley of the Multnomah, through
the hostile tribes that roam among the Clameth and Ump-
qua mountains. Some of these adventurous seamen are
among the most mdustrious, temperate, and wholesome
settlers of Oregon.
The Islands of the Pacific open another source for the
supply of inhabitants to Oregon. Hundreds of Hawaiians
have been taken from the Sandwich Islands by the Hud-
son's Bay Company, and by private individuals, to act
as house servants and day-laborers, for which they have
been found nmch better adapted than the natives of the
country. Though the persons employing them are
obliged' to enter^ into stipulations with the Hawaiian
government to return them at the expiration of their
term of service ; yet, from the numerous casualties inci-
dent to their new relations, and, those who survive, be-
coming warmly attached to the country of their adoption,
in connection with the superior facilities which Oregon
presents to the Hawaiian, when compared with those of
his native land, but few of them ever return to their
sea-girt home.
411
OHEGON iKinuroHY.
I 5
Another somewhat rruitful source lor the supply of
inhabitants to the fertile valleys of Oregon, has heen
found, singular as it may appear, in that vast range,
called " The Rocky Mountains." I do not now rel'( r to
emigrants direct from the United States, who are obliged
to pass through the gates of that stupendous range on
their way to that "better country" which they seek,
but to those white men, who, in connection with tlio
American com})anies established for j)urposes of trallick
with the Blackfeet, Sioux, and other Indians, have been
collecting for the last forty years among the snow-clad
mountains whi(;h send their waters both to the Atlaiitie
and Pacific Oceans. There are men still living in the
Wallamette valley, who accompanied Lewis and Chirk
in their ex])loring expedition in 1805 and 1800 ; and 1
have often seen j)ersons who were the coinj)anions and
fellow-travelers of Wilson Price Hunt, one of the part-
ners of .John Jacob Astor, in his trading (establishment at
the mouth of the Columbia, 'and who shared with that
intrepid traveler in all the perils of one of the most re-
markable expeditions of the kind ever carried to a suc-
cessful issue, and has been inimitably described in Wash-
ington Irving's popular '* Astoria." Madame Dorio, the
heroine of that interesting narrative, and her son, who
was born under peculiar circumstances during one of
their encampments on their journey across the mountains,
are both still alive, and inhabitants of the Wallamette
valley.
There are many others, most of whom are Americans,
who, after having spent many years in ranging the Rocky
Mountains, experiencing the most surprising adventures
among the Indians, and enduring every variety of hard-
ships which human nature is capable of suffering, have
at last found a peaceful and quiet retreat, where they
are secure from the savage violence of the Blackfoot,
and from the treachery of the Sioux, and where most
of them will close their earthly career. With the most
thrilling interest I have heard them relate their mountain
adventures and "hair breadth-escapes." The history
of some of them will doubtless form the subject of many
OREGON TERRITORY.
415
a future lejG^cud replete with interest. It is very re-
in.irkable wltli respect to this class of inhabitants,* that,
while they doonriec! themselves to a precarious subsist-
ence amon^ the hostile clans of the mountains, they con-
tracted the most roving, barbarous and depraved h'abits ;
yet, on settling down amidst the increasingly interesting
society of Oregon, most of them become steady, peace-
ful and industrious citizens. While ranging the moun-
tains they usually comiected with their's, the fortunes
of an Indian woman, and many of them, in process of
time, became surrounded with large families of half-caste
children. They had a natural love for their offspring,
and they could but form an attachmcjnt for the mothers
of their sons and daughters ; conse((uently, on leaving
the scene of their savage life, they took with them their
wives and children, anxious that both might be benefited
by mingling with civilized society. At the present time
some of these reclaimed mountaineers ai ^ among the
principal persons to whom the public interests of the
colony are intrusted. This shows vvith what facility
they can throw off their mountaineer habits, and assume
those of civilized life.
At present the most fruitful source of supply for settlers
in Oregon, is the United States of America. Emigrations
have arrived in the country, direct from Missouri, every
fall, since 1839. In 1840 and 1841, the parties were
comparatively small, but in 1842 the emigration num-
bered one hundred and eleven persons in all. In 1843, it
increased to eight hundred persons, who emigrated princi-
pally in ox-wagons, and drove before them fifteen hundred
head of neat cattle. In 1844, the number was about the
same as the preceding year. In 1845, it increased to
nearly three thousand souls, with some two or three
thousand head of cattle.
These emigrations, for the most part, are composed
of persons from the Western States, but in them might be
found persoi^s from almost every State in the Union,
even the most Eastern. Maine herself has supplied
several.
Many of these adventurers are of that class of persons
i
416
0R1<:G0X TERKITORY.
who have always hovered on the frontiers of civilization,
and have been pushing on in search of a " better country,
not an heavenly," until they have passed the utmost
borders of civilized society. Penetrating entirely tlirouf^h
the deep recesses of savage life, they have finally emerged
from the deep defiles of the Cascade Mountains, into the
lovely valleys of Oregon, where they have found, at least
in embryo, the blessings of Christianity and civilization ;
and here most of them, some from choice, and others
from the impossibility of getting away, come to the con-
clusion to erect their tabernacles for life. The enterprise
of these parties has far out-stripped the most sanguine
expectations of the English writer in a London paper,
who, a few years ago, remarked, that, "Even the perse-
verina: Yankees would not think of emifrratinj? to Oreiron
in their ox-wagons." If this writer had possessed the eye
of omniscience, he would have seen, at th'^ very time he
was penning it, a score of Yankee wagons, drawn by
sixty yoke of oxen, winding their way through the deep
})asses of the Rocky Mountains, bound for tiie Oregon.
The j)opulation of Oregon in 1840, embracing the
members of the Hudson's Bav C'ompanv, would not varv
far from twelve thousand. These are settled priiicij)ally
in the Wallamette valley on the south, and the Cowilitz
valley on the north side of the Columbia, on the (.'latsop
plains, and at the various posts of the Hudson's Bay
Company.
CHAPTER XXI.
w,
Oregon territory — Political history — Necessity of organiwng a body politic— Pint
meeting of the people — Second meeting •- Exigencies met — Organization dies —
Exploring squadron — Great excitement — Commander Wilkes — Opposed to or-
ganizing—Subject slumbers — Snb-agent — Mass meeting — Old subject revived
— Indians troublesome — Talk of war — Dr. McLaughlin — Third meeting —
Government organized — Fourth meeting — Officers qualified— Laws enaeted —
Effect produced —New legislative committee — Laws revised — Alterations — Elec-
tion of a Governor and House of Representatives — Peaceable state of community
— Joel Tumham — Thrilling incident.
The subject of this Chapter is not the political relation
of Oregon to any other country ; whether from the
Spanish purchase, the right of first discovery, or conti-
guity of situation, it properly belongs to the United
States ; or whether, from long and uninterrupted posses-
sion by British subjects, as the servants of a British
monopoly, or from the conveniency of a continued pos-
session of the majestic Columbia as a port of entry to
North Western British America, it more properly belongs
to England ; but, simply, the internal politics of Oregon.
Strange as it may appear, the people of Oregon have
their politics, altogether aside from their relation with
other countries, and these have sprung up among them,
more from the necessity of the case, than from any other
cause. Up to 1840, the number of people in the colony
was so small, the business transactions so limited, and the
difficulties so few, that the necessity of organizing the
community into a body politic, did not appear to be very
(••roat, though for two years persons had been chosen to
olliciatc as judges and magistrates. But a circumstance
transpired in the winter of 1841, different in its character
and bearings upon community from any thing that had
previously happened, namely, the death of one of the
'18
MV
i'i
il
418
OREGON TERRITORY.
■i
principal men in the colony, by the name of Ewing
Young, who left a large and very unsettled estate, with-
out having made the least provision for its administration.
On the very day of the burial of this man, who had not
a single relative to follow him to the tomb, measures
were taken to call a public meeting for the purpose of
appointing officers for the government of the community,
and particularly to provide for the proper disposition of
the estate of Ewing Young. A committee of arrange-
ments, chosen at his funeral, called a mass meeting of
the inhabitants of Oregon, south of the Columbia river,
on the 17th and 18th of February, 1841, to be held at
the Methodist Mission premises in the V/allamette val-
ley. Pursuant to the call, the people collected and held,
what was properly called, **The Primary Meeting of
the people of Oregon."
The meeting on the 18th was full — nearly every male
inhabitant south of the Columbia, of full age, being
present.
Rev. Jason Lee was excused from officiating as Chair-
man, and Rev. David Leslie was elected to fill his place.
G. Hines and Sidney Smith were chosen Secretaries.
The doings of the meeting the previous day were
presented to the assembly, and adopted, in part, as
follows : —
Resolved^ That a committee be chosen to form a con-
stitution, and draft a code of laws, and that the following
persons compose that committee :
Rev. F. N. Blanchat, Rev. Jason Lee, David Don
Pierre, Rev. Gustavus Hines, M. Chanlevo, Robert
More, J. L. Parrish, Etienne Lucia, and Wm. Johnson.
As it was not deemed necessary to elect a Governor
that office was set aside.
Dr. J. L. Babcock was elected to fill the office ol
Supreme Judge, with Probate powers.
George W. Le Breton was elected to fill the office of
Clerk of the Courts and Public Recorder.
Wm. Johnson was elected High Sheriff. Zavier
Ladaroot, Pierre Billique and Wm. MoCarty were
chOEen Constables.
OREGON TERRITORY.
419
ArlffZl 1 resolved, that, until a code of laws be
drafted bv the Legislative Committee, and adopted bv
the people, Ira L. Babcock, the Supreme Judge, he
instructed to act according to the laws of the State of
New York.
It was then resolved to adjourn to meet the first
Thursday in June, at the new building near the Roman
Oatholic church.
Thursday, June II, 1841.
1 he inhabitants of the Wallamette valley met accord-
ing to adjournment, and the meeting was called to order
by the Chairman, Rev. D. Leslie.
On motion, the doings of the former meeting were
read, on which the report of the committee for drafting
a constitution and code of laws was called for, and
information was communicated to the meeting by the
chairman of the committee, that, in consequence of his
not having called the committee together, no report had
been prepared.
F. N. Blanchat was excused from serving on that
committee at his own request.
On motion, it was then resolved, that a person be
chosen to fill the place thus vacated in the committee
for drafting a constitution and code of laws, and Wm.
J. Baily was chosen that committee man.
On motion, it was resolved, that this committee be
instructed to meet Tor the transaction of their business
on the first Monday of August next.
On motion, resolved, that the committee be instructed
to report to an adjourned meeting, to be held the first
Thursday in October next.
On motion, resolved, that the committee be advised to
confer with the commander of the American Exploring
Squadron now in the Columbia river, concerning the
propriety of forming a provisional government in Oregon.
Resolved, That the motion to adopt the report of the
nominating committee presented at a previous meeting,
be rescinded.
Resolved^ That the committee to drat\ a constitution
be instructed to take into consideration the number and
:•
420
OREGON TERRITORY.
f
kind of offices it will be necessary to create, in accord-
ance with their constitution and code of laws, and to
report the same at the next meeting.
It was also resolved, that the report of the nominating
committee be referred to the legislative committee.
It was then moved and carried, that this meeting
adjourn to meet at the Methodist Mission at eleven
o'clock, A. M., of the first Thursday in October next.
(Signed,) DAVID LESLIE, Chairman.
GUSTAVUS HiNES, ) ^ . -
cj o ' I Secretaries.
OIDXEY OMITH, )
I have previously stated that the origin of these
attempts to form a kind of provisional govenmient, was
the removal by death of the late Ewing Young, leaving,
as he did, a large and unsettled estate, with no one to
administer it, and no laws to control its administration.
The exigencies of this case having been met by the
appointment of a Judge with probate powers, who en-
tered immediately upon his duties, and disposed of tne
estate of Ewing Young, to the entire satisfaction of the
community ; and the fact that some of the most influ-
ential citizens of the country, and especially some of the
members of the legislative committee, were adverse to
the idea of establishing a permanent organization so
long as the peace and harmony of the community could
possibly be preserved without it, the subject was permit-
ted to die away, and the committee for drafting a con-
stitution and code of laws did not meet according to
their instructions, nor did the meeting at which they
were expected to report, ever take place.
What contributed more, however, to defeat this first
effort to establish a regular government in Oregon than
any thing else, was the arrival, during the summer in
which the organization was pending, of the United
States lixploring Squadron, under the command of
Captain Wilkes. The results of the observations of the
officers and scientific corps connected with the squadron,
in the Oregon Territory, as well as a description of the
different casualties which happened to them in the loss
of the Peacock on the bar of the Columbia, and in their
OREGON TERRITORY.
42]
te, in accord-
laws, and to
e nominating
imittee.
this meeting
n at eleven
ber next.
Chairman.
im of these
Tument, was
ung, leaving,
h no one to
[ministration,
met bv the
ft
ers, who en-
posed of tne
fiction of the
most infiu-
some of the
adverse to
anization so
nunity could
was perniit-
afting a con-
Lccording to
which they
jat this first
Dregon than
sumtner in
the United
ommand of
itions of the
le squadron,
ption of the
in the loss
and in their
different conflicts with the natives of the interior, are
already before the public in the voluminous works of
Captain Wilkes, and therefore it is not necessary to
introduce them here. The arrival on the coast of Ore-
gon of so extensive an armament, consisting of four or
five vessels of war, for the express purpose of exploring,
not only the coast and rivers, but also the country itself,
P^^d"ced a very great excitement in the community,
and but little was heard of but the Exploring Squadron
during its somewhat protracted stay in the Columbia
river. In addition to this, the officers of the squadron
were consulted on the subject of organizing the country
mto a civil compact, and were found to be decidedly
opposed to the scheme, and recommended that the sub-
ject be allowed to rest. They encouraged the people in
the belief that the United States Government would
probably soon extend jurisdiction over the country.
This put a quietus on the subject for the time being,
and, as the number of settlers in the country was yet
small, and the difficulties to be settled of such a nature
as easily to be adjusted by arbitration, nothing took
place to call up the subject of organizing until several
months after the departure of the squadron from the
Columbia river.
The subject of organizing a government was again
revived in September, 1842 ; but Dr. White, who was
now in the country as Sub-agent of Indian Affairs, con-
tended that his office was equivalent to that of Governor
of the Colony. Some of the citizens contended that the
Doctor's business was to regulate the intercourse be-
tween the Indians and the whites, and not to control the
whites in their intercourse among themselves. Without
arriving at any thing definite on this point, after hearing
the documents brought to the country from Washington
by Dr. White, the people scattered away to their homes
upon the plains, pleased with what they considered to be
a preliminary step of the United States towards extending
jurisdiction over the Territory of Oregon.
About this time the Indians became quite troublesome,
in various parts of the country. At Waialetpee, on the
4
422
OREGON TERRITORY.
Walla- Walla river, where a mission station had been
established by Dr. Marcus Whitman, they took advantage
of the Doctor's absence and broke into the house, in the
dead of the night, and even into the bed-chamber of Mrs.
Whitman, who, with much difficulty, escaped out of their
hands. At Laperai, on Clear Water river, where the
Rev. Mr. Spaulding was conducting a mission station,
they committed some outrages ; also, at the Falls of the
Wallamette river. A number of individuals of Dr.
White's party, who had separated themselves from the
main company, were robbed of their eflects while passing
down the Columbia river.
The Nez-Perces and Kayuses, two of the most power-
ful tribes in the country, had talked much of making
war upon the American settlement on the Wallamette
river. These things, with many others of more or less
importance, produced a high degree of excitement, and
served to arouse the people again to the subject of enter-
ing into some measures by which their mutual protection
might be secured. The Canadian Fjench, who had set-
tled in the country, and who, up to the beginning of
1843, were more numerous than the Americans, were,
at first, agreed with them as to the necessity of organ-
izing ; but, at this time, as it was supposed through the
influence of Dr. John McLaughlin, who, himself was
opposed to such a measure, they broke ofl^, almost to a
man, on the pretence, that, as they were the subjects of
Queen Victoria, and did not wish to forswear their
country, they could not, consistently, enter into any
measures that might prove prejudicial to her Majesty's
government. This served to harmonize the views of the
Americans, so far as to bring them unanimously to the
determination immediately to organize ; but they still
difl^ered as to the nature of the government that should
be established. Some were favorable to an independent
form, some to a form similar to a territorial government,
while others were in fivor of a few simple rules and
regulations, which might operate satisfactorily for the
time being, until the United States government should do
something more effectual in their behalf. With these
OREGON TERRITORY.
423
had been
I advantage
fuse, in the
)er of Mrs.
►ut of their
[where the
>n station,
alls of the
lis of Dr.
|s from the
lile passing
lOst power-
of nriaking
Vallarnette
ore or less
emerit, and
ct of enter-
protection
ho had set-
ginning of
;ans, were,
•I of organ-
brough the
imself was
ilmost to a
subjects of
wear their
' into any
' Majesty's
iews of the
usly to the
they still
hat should
idependent
)vernment,
rules and
ly for the
should do
V^ith these
conflicting views a meeting of about fifty of the settlers,
chiefly Americans, took place at the Wallamette Falls
m the month of March, 1843, and the subject of organ-
izing the community into a body politic, became the
order of the evennig. After a spirited and interesting
discussion, the meeting resulted in the appointment of a
committee to notify a public meeting to be held at
Champoeg, the 2d day of May, 1843. In the mean
time, there being no law in Oregon, every man was left
to do what was pleasing in his own eyes. At length the
2d day of May arrived, and the people assembled ac-
cording to notice, the French as well as the Americans,
the former, doubtless, for the purpose of thwarting the
designs of the latter, and these with the determination of
carrying their purposes into execution. The following is
an account of the meeting as taken from the public records.
A public meeting of the inhabitants of the Wallamette
settlement was held at Champoeg, on the 2d day of
May, 1843, in accordance with the call of a committee,
chosen at a previous meeting, for the purpose of taking
steps to organize themselves into a civic community, ana
provide themselves with the protection secured by the
enforcement of law and order.
Dr. J. L. Babcock was chosen Chairman, and W. H.
Gray, G. W. Le Breton and W. H. Wilson were chosen
Secretaries.
The committee appointed for the purpose of bringing
forward the business of the meeting, presented their
report, and a motion was made to accept it, which was
lost. Considerable confusion existed in consequence ;
but it was moved by G. W. Le Breton, and seconded by
W. H. Gray, that the meeting divide themselves prepara-
tory to being count .^d ; those in favor of the objects of the
meeting taking the right, and those of the contrary mind,
the left. The motion prevailed, and a large majority
being found in favor of organizing, the greater part of the
dissenting withdrew.
The report of the committee was again presented and
accepted. It was then taken up, item by item, and dis-
posed of as follows : —
;l
'I
424
OREGON TERRITORY.
First item, that a Judge, with Probate powers, be
chosen to officiate in this community. Adopted.
It was also resolved, that the second, third, fourth and
fifth items, providing for the election of a Clerk, Sherilf,
three Magistrates, and three Constables, be adopted.
The sixth item, recommending the election of a com-
mittee of nine persons for the purpose of drafting a
code of laws for the government of the community, and
to report to a public meeting to be hereafter called by
said committee, and to be held at Champoeg, on the 5th
day of July, 1843, was also adopted.
The seventh a.xd eighth were adopted, which recom-
mended the election of a Treasurer, a Major and three
Captains.
It was then resolved, that the meeting proceed to
choose persons to fill the various offices by ballot.
A. E. Wilson was chosen to. act as Judge, with Probate
powers.
G. W. Le Breton was chosen Clerk of the Court, and
Recorder.
Joseph L. Meek was chosen to fill the office of
Sherift:
W. H. Wilson was chosen Treasurer.
Messrs. Hill, Shortess, Newel, Beers, Hubbard, Gray,
O'Neal, More and Dougherty were chosen to act as
the Legislative Committee.
Messrs. Burns, Judson and A. T. Smith were chosen
to act as Magistrates.
Messrs. Ebberts, Bridges and Lewis were chosen to
act as Constables.
John Howard was chosen Major.
Messrs. McCarty, McKay and S. Smith were consti-
tuted Captains.
It was then resolved, that the Legislative Committee
be required to make their report on the 5th day of July,
1843, at Champoeg.
On motion, it was resolved, that the services of the
Committee be paid for at the rate of one dollar and
twenty-five cents per day, and that the money be raised
by subscription.
OREGON TERRITORY.
425
*vere consti-
r; a
^■■
A motion was made and carried, that the Major and
Captains be instructed to enlist men, to form companies
of mounted riflemen.
A fourth Magistrate and a fourth Constable were also
elected, and it was then resolved, that the Legislative
Committee should not be allowed to sit over six days.
In addition to the above business, this important pri-
mary meeting recognized the oflicers who had been
elected immediately after the death of Ewing Young,
and passed a vote that they should have power to exer-
cise the functions of their oflJice until the day of the
public meeting should arrive, when the newly elected
oflicers should be duly initiated.
During the interim between the above described
meeting and the 5th of July, little transpired worthy of
note, with the exception of the celebration of the Fourth.
This day, glorious in the recollection of every American,
wherever he may be found, as the birth-day of liberty,
was appropriately celebrated at Champoeg, where nearly
all the Americans in the country, and many of the French
and English assembled to listen to an oration, and a
temperance address, and to enjoy the socialities of a
public dinner. The festivities of the day were enjoyed
m the true spirit of liberty, there being no other spirit
to exert an influence on the occasion. As there were
no houses to entertain the people during the night, they
nearly all camped upon the ground, and the morning of
the 5th found them prepared to enter upon the important
business that was to come before them, and which re-
sulted in giving to the Oregonians a tangible form of
government.
The minutes of the meeting are as follows : —
Champoeg, July 5th, 1843.
The inhabitants of Oregon met at Champoeg, pursuant
to adjournment, to hear the report of the Legislative
Committee, and to perform such other business as might
come before them.
Rev. Gustavus Hiner was elected Chairman, and W.
H. Gray, W. H. Wilson and H. Campbell were chosen
Secretaries.
426
ORKGON TERRITORY.
Robert More, Esq., Cluiirman of the Legislative Conri-
mittee, then. presented his report, whieh was read by
the Clerk of the C'nurt, and ad()|)ted, as follows : —
Section 1st, — We, the people of Oregon Territory, for
purposes of mutual protection, and to secure peace and
f)rosperity among ourselnjs, agree to adopt the following
aws and regulations until such time as the United States
of America extend their jurisdiction over us.
Be it therefore enacted by the citiz/ms of Oregon
Territory, that the said Territory, for the purposes of
temporary government, be divided into not less than
three, nor rnore tlrin live Districts, subject to be extended
to a greater number when the increase of population
shall require.
For the purpose of fixing the principles of civil and
religious liberty as the basis of all laws and constitutions
of government that may hereafter be adopted, Be it
enacted, that the following articles be considered ar-
ticles of compact among the free citizens of this Ter-
ritory :
Article \st. No person demeaning himself in an orderly
and peaceful manner, shall ever be molested on account
of his mode of worship, or religious sentiments.
Jirticle 2d The inhabitants of said Territory shall
always be entitled to the benefit of the writ of habeas
corpus, and trial by jury, of a proportionate representa-
tion of the people in the legislature and judicial proceed-
ings, according to the course of common law ; ali per-
sons shall be bailable, unless for capital oU'ences, where
the proof shall be evident, or the presumption great.
All lines shall be moderate, and no cruel or unusual pun-
ishments intUcted. Ao man shall be deprived of his liboty
but l)y the judgment of his peers, or the laws of the hind ;
and should the ])ublic exigencies make it necessary for
the connnon preservation to take any person's property,
or to demand his particular services, full compensation
shall be made for the same. And, in the just preservation
of rights and property, it is understood and declared, that
no law ought to be made or have force in said Territory
that shall, in any manner whatever, interfere with, or
OREGON TERRITORY.
427
ilative Com-
mas read by
ws : —
arritory, for
e peace and
le following
nited States
of Oregon
iur})oses of
•t less tlian
be extended
population
:>f civil and
lonstitutions
pted, Be it
isidered ar-
►f this Ter-
1 an orderly
on account
is.
itory sliaJl
of habeas
e pre sen ta-
ll ])roceed-
; all per-
ces, where
or< great,
usual pun-
his libcj'ty
the land ;
essary for
pi-operty,
ipensation
jservation
ai'ed, tiiut
Territory
J with, or
effect, private contracts or engagements, bona fide and
without fraud, privately framed.
Article 3d, Religion, morality, and knowledge, being
necessary to good government and the happiness of man-
kind, schools and the means of education shall forever
be encouraged.
The utmost good faith shall always be preserved to-
wards the Indians ; their land and property shall never
be taken from them without their consent ; and in their
property, rights and liberty, they shall never be invaded
or disturbed, unless in just and lawful wars authorized
by the representatives of the people. But laws founded
in justice and humanity, shall from time to time be made
for preventing injustice being done to them, and for pre-
serving peace and friendship with them.
•Article 4th. There shall be neither slavery nor involun-
tary servitude in said Territory, otherwise than for the
punishment of crime, whereof the party shall have been
duly convicted.
Section 2d. — Organic Law.
.Article \st. Be it enacted by the authorities aforesaid,
that the officers elected upon the 2d day of May, 1843,
shall continue in office until the second Tuesday in May,
1844, and until others are elected and qualified.
Article 2d. Be it further enacted, that an election of
civil and military officers shall be held annually upon the
second Tuesday in May, in the several districts, in such
places as shall be designated by law.
Article Sd. Each officer heretofore elected, or that shall
hereafter be elected, shall, before entering upon the duties
of his office, take an oath, or affirmation, to support the
laws of the Territory, and faithfully to discharge the
duties of his office.
Article 4th. Every free male descendant of a white
man, inhabitant of this Territory, of the age of twenty-
one years and upwards, who shall have been an inhabi-
tant of this Territory at the time of its organization, shall
be entitled to vote at the election of officers, civil and
military, and be eligible to any office in the Territory.
428
OKf:^ON TKKRITORV.
Provided, that all persoi.s of the description entitled to
vote by the provisions of thi-s s(^ction, who shall emigrate
to this Territory alter organization, shall be entitled to
the rights of citizens, after having resided six months in
the Territory.
Jlrtic/c bth. The executive power shall be vested in ;i
committee of three persons elected by the qualified voters
at the annual election, who shall have power to gram
pardons and reprieves for oflences against the laws of
the Territory ; to call out the military force of the Ter-
ritory, to repel invasions or suppress insurrection ; to take
care that the lawo be faithfully executed, and to recom-
mend such laws, as they may consider necessary, to the
representatives of the people for their action. Two mem-
bers of the committee shall constitute a quorum for the
transaction of business.
Article 6th. The legislative power shall be vested in a
committee of nine persons, to be chosen by the qualified
voters at the annual elections, giving to each district a
representation in the ratio of its population, excluding
Indians, and the said members of the committee shall
reside in the district for wh* .;h they shall be chosen.
•Article 1th. The judicial power shall be vested in a
Supreme Court, consisting of the Supreme Judge and two
Justices of the Peace, a Probate Court, and in Justices
of the Peace. The jurisdiction of the Supreme Court
shall be both appellate and original. That of the Probate
Court and Justices of the Peace, as limited by law ; pro-
vided, that individual Justices of the Peace shall not Jiave
jurisdiction of any matter of controversy when the title
or boundaries of land may be in dispute, or when the sum
claimed shall exceed fifty dollars.
Article Sth. There shall be a Recorder elected by the
qualified electors at the annual election, who shall keep
a faithful record of the proceedings in the Legislative
Committee, Supreme and Probate Courts ; also, record
all boundaries of land presented for that purpose, and all
marks and brands used for marking live stock ; procure
and keep the standard weights and measures required
by law ; seal weights and measures, and keep a record of
OREOON TERRITORV.
429
the same ; and also record wills, deeds and other instru-
ments of writing, required by law to be recorded. The
Recorder shall receive the following fees, viz : for re-
cording wills, deeds, and other instruments of writing,
twelve cents for every hundred words, and the same
price for copies of the same ; for every weight and
measure sealed, twenty-five cents ; for services as Clerk
of the Legislature, and for all other services required of
him by this act, the same fees as are allowed for similar
services by the laws of Iowa.
Article 9t/i. There shall be a Treasurer elected by the
qualified electors of the Territory, who shall, before en-
tering upon the duties of his office, give bonds to the
Executive Committee in the sum of fifteen hundred dol-
lars, with two or more suflicient securities, to be approved
by the Executive Committee of the Territory, conditioned
for the faithful discharge of the duties of his office. The
Treasurer shall receive all moneys belonging to the Ter-
ritory that may be raised by contribution or otherwise,
and shall procure suitable books in which he shall enter
an account of his receipts and disbursements.
Article lOih. The Treasurer shall in no case pay
money out of the Treasury, but according to law ; and
shall annually report to the Legislative Committee a
true account of his receipts and disbursements, with
necessary vouchers for the same, and shall deliver to his
successor in office all books, moneys, accounts, or other
property belonging to the Territory, as soon as his suc-
cessor shall become qualified.
Article llth. The Treasurer shall receive for his ser-
vices the sum of five per cent, upon all moneys received
and paid out, according to law, and three per cent, upon
all money in the Treasury when he goes out of ofllce,
and two per cent, upon the disbursements of money in
the Treasury when he comes into office.
Article I2th. The laws of Iowa shall be the laws of
this country, in civil, military and criminal cases, when
not otherwise provided for; and where no statute of Iowa
Territory applies, the principles of common law and
equity shall govern.
430
OREGON TERRITORY.
•Article I3th. The law of Iowa, regulating weights
and measures, shall be the law of this Territory ; Pro-
vided, that the Suprenne Court shall perform the duties
required of the County Commissioners, and the Recorder
shall pf rfom the duties of the Clerk of the County Com-
missioners, as provided in said laws of Iowa. And,
provided, that sixty pounds avoirdupois weight, shall be
the standard weight of a bushel of wheat, whether the
same be more or less than two thousand one hundred
and fifty and two-fifths cubic inches.
Jlrticle I4th. The laws of Iowa respecting wills and
administrations, shall be the laws of this Territory, in all
cases not otherwise provided for.
Article }bth. The laws of Iowa respecting vagrants,
are hereby adopted as far as adapted to the circumstan-
ces of the citizens of Oregon.
Jlrticle I6th. The Supreme Court shall hold two ses-
sions annually, upon the third Tuesday in April and
September, the first session to be held at Champoeg, on
the third Tuesday in September, 1843, and the second
session at Tuality Plains, on the third Tuesday in April.
At the sessions of the Supreme Court, the Supreme
Judge shall preside, assisted by the Justices ; Provided,
that no Justice of the Peace shall assist in trying any
case that has been brought before the Court by appeal
from his judgment. The Supreme Court shall have
original jurisdiction in cases of treason, felony, and
breach of the peace, and in civil cases when the sum
claimed exceeds fifty dollars.
Article nth. All male persons of the ago of sixteen
years and upwards, and all females of the ago of four-
teen and upwards, shall have the right of engaging in
marriage ; Provided, that, when either of the parties
shall be under twenty-one years of age, the consent of
the parents or guardiiins of such minors shall be neces-
sary to the validity of such matrimonial engagement.
Every ordained minister of the gospel of any religious
denomination, the Supreme Judge, and all the Justices
of the Peace, are hereby authorized to solemnize mar-
riage according to law, to have the same recorded, and
OREGON TERRITORY.
431
f
pay the Recorder's fees. All marriages shall be re-
corded by the Territorial Recorder within one month
from the time of such marriage taking place, and being
made known to him officially. The legal fee for mar-
riage shall be one dollar, and for recording fifty cents.
Jlrticle IStli. All offices subsequently made shall be
filled by election and ballot in the several districts, in
the most central and convenient place in such district,
upon the day appointed by law, and ui]der such regula-
tions as the laws of Iowa provide.
Jlrticle 1 9th. Resolved, that a Committee of three be
appointed to draw up a digest of the doings of the people
of this Territory, with regard to an organization, and
transmit it to the United States Government for their
information.
In every other particular connected with the Judiciary
and Military regulations of the country, the laws of
Iowa were considered applicable, and were consequently
formally adopted by the people assembled en masse at
Champoeg, on the 5th of July, 1843.
As the country remained quiet as it regarded the
Indians, and no particular danger menaced her from
without, the miUtary laws slumbered a dead letter, and
the military officers remained without a militia. The
organization, however, continued, and all the rest of the
laws were uniformly put in force. The expenses of the
government for two years after the organization, were
met by voluntary contributions ; some of the officers,
however, serving without fee or reward.
In the spring of 1844, a new Legislative Committee
was elected, which embraced two or three lawyers, who
arrived in the country the previous fall. This Committee
passed a vote, recommending several important altera-
tions in the Organic Laws, which were found to be, in
their practical operations, somewhat defective. As the
people had not yet surrendered their law-making power
into the hands of the Legislative Committee, it was
necessary to call an election, to ascertain the will of the
people in reference to the proposed alterations and
amendments. This election took place, and resulted in
i
H
:
H
432
OREGON TERRITORV.
r
the adoption of the Organic Laws, with the proposes
alterations and admendments, by an overwhelming ma-
jority. The principal alterations thus effected relate to
the three powers of Government, the Legislative, Exec-
utive, and Judicial. Instead of a Committee of nine,
whose acts were to be confirmed or rejected by a subse-
quent vote of the people, the Legislative power was
vested in a House of Representatives, to consist of not
less than thirteen, nor more than sixty-one members,
possessing all the powers usual to such bodies.
Instead of a Committee of three, the Executive power
was vested in one person, to be elected by the qualified
voters at the annual election, and possessing the powers
common to the Governors of the different States.
The Judicial power was vested in a Supreme Court,
and such Inferior Courts of law, equity and arbitration,
as should, by law, fr^om time to time, be established.
It was also provided, that the Supreme Judge should
be elected by the House of Representatives, and not by
the people, according to the provisions of the former
Code.
All the officers, civil and military, were required to
take an oath as follows, to wit : —
I do solemnly swear, that I will support the Organic
Laws of the Provisional Government of Oregon, so far
as said Organic Laws ar^ consistent with my duties as
a citizen of the United States, or a subject of Groat
Britain, and faithfully demean myself in office ; so help
me God.
Important changes were also effected in the Organic
Laws, respecting land claims. By the previous arrange-
ment, the different missions in the country were con-
firmed in their occupancy of the tracts of land of which
they had taken possession, for the benefit of the Indian
tribes, but in the amended Code, no such mission claims
were allowed.
As the Land Law is quite important, particularly to
persons interested to know how such matters are regu-
lated in Oregon^ perhaps it will not be improper to copy
it verbatim : —
OREGON TERRITORY.
433
**Anv person now holding, or hereafter wishing to
estabhsh a claim to land in this Territory, shall designate
the extent of his claim by natural boundaries, or by
marks at the corners and upon the lines of such claim,
and have the extent and boundaries of said claim re-
corded in the office of the Territorial Recorder, in a
book to be kept by him for that purpose, within twenty
days from the time of making such claim : Provided,
that those who shall be already in possession of land,
shall be allowed twelve months, from the passage of this
act, to file a description of his claim in the Recorder's
office ; and provided, further, that the said claimant
shall state in his record, the size, shape and locahty of
such claim, and give the names of the adjoining claim-
ants ; and the Recorder may require the applicant for
such record to be made, to answer on his oath touching
the facts.
" All claimants shall, within six months from the time
of recording their claim, make permanent improvements
upon the same, by building or inclosing, and also become
an occupant upon said claim, within one year from the
date of such record, or, in case not occupied, the person
holding said claim shall pay into the Treasury the sum
of five dollars annually ; and, in case of failure to occu-
py, or failure of payment of the sum above stated, the
claim shall be considered as abandoned ; Provided, that
no non-resident of this Territory shall have the benefit
of the Law ; and provided, further, that any resident of
this Territory, absent on his private business for two
years, may hold his claim by paying five dv irs, an-
nually, to the Treasury.
" No individual shall be allowed to a claim of more
than one square mile, or six hundred and forty acres, in
a square or oblong form, according to the natural situa-
tion of the premises ; nor shall any individual be allowed
to hold more than one claim at the same time. Any
person, complying with the provisions of these ordi-
nances, shall be entitled to the same reconrse against
trespass, as in other cases by law provided.
" Partnerships of two or more persons, shall be allowed
I
lii'
434
OREGON TERRITORY.
to take up a tract of land, not exceeding six hundred and
forty acres to each person in said partnership, subject to
all the provisions of this law, and whenever such partner-
ship is dissolved, the members shall record the particular
parts of said tract which may be allotted to them re-
spectively ; provided, that no member of said partnership
shall hold a separate claim at the time of the existence
of said partnership."
It was also determined at the special election, by a
vote of the people, that the amended Organic Law
should become the law of the land, after the first Tues-
day in June, 1845, when the election of a Governor and
Members of the House of Representatives was to take
place.
In the mean time the people of Oregon, though differ-
ing as much in their education, their degrees of civiliza-
tion and refinement, and their constitutional habits, as
thev do in the color of their skin, continued in their inter-
course with one another, to form a remarkably peaceable
and quiet community. But, it will not be understood by
this, that the Oregonians exhibited no irregularities, no
wickedness in their conduct ; but simply that in civil
regulations, and daily intercourse in matters of business,
and in efforts to promote the welfare of the country, the
community was one of order, gentleness and unani.nity.
As a proof of this, when steps have been taken to adopt
laws from time to time, as the exigencies of the case
have seemed to require, though numbers have usually
been opposed to the measures, yet, after having been
adopted by the majority, they have been universally
acknowledged. Those most opposed at first, like true-
hearted republicans, would fall in with the majority, and
sustain the laws with their entire influence.
Another thing that speaks well for the civil order that
prevailed in the community before the present organiza-
tion was established, is the fact, that crimes were very
few. True, there were some petty quarrels between
white men, but in a very few instances did they amount
to blows.
So few were the cases of serious litigation, that when
i
OREGON TEKRITORY.
435
i
the first Circuit Courts were held in the four different
counties, there appeared but one case of assault in the
whole country, and in that the circumstances were so
extenuating that the defendant was fined only twenty-
five dollars. The highest charge that came before either
Justices or Judges, in Oregon, up to 1845, was against a
man for challenging another to fight a duel, who, for a
foolish violation of a law which had just been passed, was
fined in the sum of five hundred dollars, and disfranchised
for life. It being the first case of the kind in the country,
the last part of the sentence was remitted by a special act
of the Legislature.
There are vagabonds and scape-gallowses in almost
every country, and it would be singular if none had found
their way to Oregon. That this may have been the case,
appears from a most desperate affray which greatly
disturbed the quiet of the community, and which took
place in the upper part of the settlement on the Walla-
mette river.
A man by the name of Joel Turnham, who possessed
a most reckless and desperate disposition, committed
several outrages upon a peaceful and inoffensive man by
the name of Webley Hauxhurst. One day, Turnham
took occasion to tie his horse in Hauxhurst's oat field, as
he had frequently done before, without asking liberty,
and then going to' Hauxhurst's house, the latter expostu-
lated with him for taking such undue liberties with his
property. This so enraged Turnham that he seized
Hauxhurst bv the throat, with the intention of flogging
him ; but, while in the act of throwing him to the floor,
the wife of Hauxhurst, who was an Indian woman of the
Callapooah tribe, seized a board that lay near, and with
one blow upon the head of Turnham, for an instant,
paralized everv muscle in his frame, and brousrht him
staggering to the floor. Soon, however, Turnham ga-
thered himself up and immediately left the house, swear-
ing vengeance upon the woman, saying, "There is no
law against killincr Indians."'
Hauxhurst, fearing as well for his own safety, as that
Turnham would carry his threat into execution against
436
OREGON TERRITORY.
the life of his wife, resolved upon taking immediate
measures to secure the arrest of Turnham.
Turnham himself, at the previous election, had been
chosen constable, and consequently, L. H. Judson, Esq.,
on application being made by Hauxhurst for a precept
against Turnham, deputized a man by the name of John
Edmonds to take him into custody. Edmonds immedi-
ately took the precept, and walking into a shop where
Turnham was with a number of other persons, told him
that he was his prisoner, and commence ! reading the
warrant. Not being able to read it reac^y, ^^ account
of an impediment in his speech, Turnham said, *' Here,
let me read it ;" and snatching it out of the hands of
Edmonds, tore it in pieces, and stamped it beneath his
feet ; and then, seizing a knife in one hand, and a ham-
mer in the other, swore he would butcher the first man
that attempted to take him. Edmonds called for help,
but none dared to come near. Turnham, therefore,
walked out of the shop, mounted his horse and rode off
towards the house of Hauxhurst. Another warrant was
issued, and Edmonds was advised to enier into all neces-
sary precautions to take Turnham at any rate. Accord-
ingly, he proceeded to the Oregon Institute and got Mr.
Hamilton Campbell and some others, to go and assist
him. Supposing that Turnham would fight, and from
his desperate and sanguinary character would doubtless
attempt to kill him, Edmonds armed himself with a re-
volving six-barreled pistol that was sure fire, and pro-
ceeded on to Hauxhurst's house. Turnham had been
there and ground his large knife, which he usually carried
in his belt under his coat, but had left a short time before
Edmonds arrived.
Looking back from the prairie over which he was
passing, he saw a company of men as they were dis-
mounting from their horses, and immediately wheeled
his horse around, and rode back upon the full gallop to-
wards Hauxhurst's house. As Turnham approached,
Edmonds placed himself inside of a small gate which
led into the door-yard, with his right hand placed on the
breech of his pistol, which he carried in his pantaloon's
OREGON TERRITORY.
437
pocket. Turnham, paying no attention to him, came up
immediately to the gate, and while passing through into
the yard, Edmonds put his left hand upon Turnham's
shoulder, and said, " You are my prisoner." Turnham
immediately drew his long knife and brandished it in
Edmonds' face, and Edmonds as quickly presented his
six-shooter at Turnham's breast. They eyed each
other for an instant, but Turnham, mad to desperation,
exclaimed, *' Shoot and be d d ; " and commenced
throwing himself backwards and forwards, from one
side of the yard to the other, for the twofold purpose
of evading the bullets, and of placing himself in a posi-
tion to enable him to make a successful drive upon his
antagonist. Those who witnessed the aifray, have no
doubt but that he was bent upon the death of Edmonds.
Some one within the house was heard to cry out to
Edmonds, "Why don't you shoot]" At this Edmonds
commenced his fire. The first two bullets missed Turn-
ham altogether. The third wounded him in his knee,
the fourth in his neck, the fifth in his face, and during
all this time he was rushing forward upon Edmonds with
the utmost vengeance.
When the fifth ball hit him, he clapped one hand to
the wound, and cried out. "Oh!" and hesitated a njo-
ment as if he would yield ; but gathering himself up for
one more struggle, while making his last and most des-
perate efifbrt to plunge his knife iuco the heart of Ed-
monds, the sixth ball pierced his temple, he fell and
instantly expired.
This case was of such a nature, as m the estimation
of the Supreme Judge, to demand an investigation by
the Grand Jury. Accordingly, Edmonds gave bonds
for his appearance at Court, and, though his enemies
labored hard to convict him of murder, yet, when
the matter was thoroughly investigated by the .Tury,
it was pronounced to be a clear case of justifiable
homicide.
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THE END.