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Maps, plates, charts, etc , may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The rollowing diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmis A des taux de rMuction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est film* A partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 w^m iP .^iirai SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THK WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. • M • * % . ■* If \l nr r \ Vi go ar*- 50' *a 42 S4 44 rh. Si 41 3« is a.jhi ■47 fX'- 45; 4fi 4tl 41 46 42 41 40 41 a$ 42 aa sy.*. 40 42 se 9i &4 ai ,.40 -W , ^ f,. '"' 1 •*' J 7 a» .V.1 ai .15 j^ ,i,<> 40 41 27 36 .V k T^orihFarallon 42 40 ag 40 at 84 aa gy.j.mUtv 61 2a 40 40 as M aa as »4 $» M ai ao ao 32 so' 40' 35' r MovatoCj^ San Iraucisco (Noorth Beach.) HigliVraler ^CorreciidBstablishne/itlatU^^^?^ The mean rise of Sprituf lieUs is 4s fr and ot'Jnntp Tides ^'f/. n H.w.r.&c.xi¥4r? 19 ....-•■ f""a 22 90 sy-*- ao M$ 32 23 *t -»■'■ 8 m.s. *'gy-*- Keep Ya-ba Buma.jl^tinbz^!:'!!^^- -rr 20 27 rr 21 "I la h'. fik J. »dea Hi, ,5 . J. Jill.. 4 -. ji J r^ JO J0 7tf 2i'( h „ nl.wli.l>l.t..th. I<\ * /'' H / '7 r,i.hl.wh.j. ^, ^j j^ J) V. ^ ?7 ih te 16 Id •'•/" /7 A-. „_ ]tV.'l\t ..< 'Sim \^< i 'CSV Struts Si d r *• yj'" ^u y-y Mud Flat % ^^"'e^] tVfj Pii/fn> P^i SH>uni(iu (lutroi Bay A ■>'- * ANGEL A/ 22 * . ^^^" > -4 g^MvnimKf lAFA -Hap 10' -1 — '- f 1 1 r 1 '• ■ — I r &' ^— gg. -I — ^ -T r KAIIQIJINES STRAIT «a at *4 74 f,ilj,tirtitd/ 46! »Sd <: aa u 31 36 .« 39 ,27 41 39 ■u » TiortkFaralloa M t7 ,0 31 41 V '^ 37 « a$ e» 29 30 32 bkn.jh'. 26 97 39 Jt '0-- .16' f.(Cff- 3,r »i 34 34 94 at 30 at 40' 2ia \ N E S 30 I ■'' Sif , ISO 90 -' F ,„ A R A L ,« L O j^/ bkn-th. . 2fi ... Mid M M4 sb r.t. JOI \ 73 40 S4 au 4t .Farallon «» .f..ih. ''0 10 36 /*,. 19 13i ao w iS a,t 90 «, JOT- ^ SOUTH I'ARALLO^ Ajiprummate Scale of a a Sea Mile Lat *7 \ 69 \ M;7 39 ^ - t^KfS"'"' 27 HTs^ * ' JH „ 25 7.1 7ARALLON *o 28 30 at 29 90 29 ai JS w 9F-' bkn.sh. -**-- 20 ao 29 -ao-- 36 ay-'- jo.d.J \ 69 40 *9 aa 41 34 97 44 as 49 S4 66 99 49 4f dk.gy.s. 60 6* 66 U SO JU \ 60 \ oki.ffy. fmieti\ 123 MB ft as sy- 49 S3 90 56' J I J I I \ — 1 1_ 56' _1 i 1 L. 49 50' _J L 45' ■ ' ' . ' 39 39 C,frti.U.t. 17 40' i^_. -i- -4- 30' "^v^' X :)'■ Skrra n ''VS /' \\)i „ ? v-t? <'^;/ U st'^ Cr- .Z-X^- ■■■■■?' '* '"-^d... l^ \C( 4'-^: - 20' «M 15" ^ . D I II E C T I O N S '< »'. M^ rOR THE WEST COAST ov NOKTH AMERICA, BETWEEN PANAMA AND QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. By JAMES F. IMRAY, F.R.G.S. ««1 SECOND EDITION. m LONDON: JAMES IMRAY & SON, MINORIES AND TOWER HILL, 1868. 134 .'a. *j|t* CoMMtJNIOATIONS FOK THE FUTURE IMPROVEMENT OP THIS OR ANY OF OUR Works, vrtLL be thankfully reoeived and aoenowledoed. I PREFACE. Since the publication of the first edition of this work great and important changes — both political and commercial — ^have occurred on the western sea- board of the North American Continent ; not only have vast territories passed into other hands and new boundaries been determined for various states, but the discovery of extensive "gold bearing" districts, which at first d'-er thither a large body of immigrants bound for the " diggings," and who went there merely to search for the precious metals and for minerals, has finally resulted in the settlement of richly productive agricultural tracts ; thus villages have become towns, — and towns, cities, — while the fcmerly unfrequented , harbours and roadsteads have become marts of commerce to which the shipping of all nations resort, — and so, as regards navigation, calls for better and improved charts, and sailing directions. The lack of information which rendered the first edition very incomplete can now no longer be pleaded. In the intei'val the difierent maritime nations have been emulous in the production of good surveys, and hence what formerly i could only be presented to the Navigator in detached fragments, becomes a [connected description of the entire coast from Panama to Queen Charlotte [ipVids, — not so perfect as a continually increasing commerce may ultimately [demand, but still sufficient for its present exigencies. The deficiences will bo IBupplied as opportunity ofiers, as new ports are opened, and as the increasing Eiffic of the older ports improves, — as changes resulting alike from physical id human ceases occur. J. F. I. \iov. 1867. A 2 29448 AUTHOEITIES. The following are some of the publications consulted in the compilation of this work : — South American Pilot. Vol. 2. Dampier's Voyages. 4 vols. Voyages and Travels by Captain Basil Hall, B.N. Central America ; describing the States of Guatemala, Honduras, Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Bica, the natural features, &c., by John Baily, 1850. The Isthmus of Tehuantepeo : being the results of a survey for a railroad, &c. to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, by J. J. Williams, principal assistant engineer. A voyage round the world in the years 1740-4, commanded by Lord Anson. Compiled &om his papers and materials by Richard Walter. Travels in Mexico by Lieut. Hardy, R.N., 1826. Report of the reconnaissance of the Gulf of California and the Colorado river, made in 1850-51. By Lieut. Geo. H. Derby, U.S. Navy. Reports of the United States Coast Survey, presented to Congress to 1864 ; particularly the volume for 1862, from which the instructions for the coast of California are chiefly taken. Vancouver Island Pilot. Mercantile Marine Magazines to 1868. Nautica! Magazines to 1868. Annalep hydrographiques to 1868. Narrative of an Exploring Expedition to the Vtlantic and Pacific Ocean, by Captain Charles Wilks, U.S. Navy, 5 vols. Surveys of portions of the coast of California in the vicinity of San Francisco bay, by Commander Cadwalader Ringgold, U.S. Navy, 1352. Narrative of a voyage round the world performed in H.M.S. Sulphur, during the years 1886-42, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R.N. ;:;r m AUTHOEITIES. vu Lord Anson. the Colorado Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific performed in H.M.S. Blossom, undei the command of Captain F. W. Beechey, R.N., F.R.S., in the years 1825-28. Voyage of dibcovery to the North Pacific Ocean and round the world, per- formed in the years 1790-95 by Captain George Vancouver, R.N. A voyage to the South Atlantic and roand Cape Hox'n into the Pacific Ocean, &c. By James Colnett, R.N., 1792-4. Reconnaissance hydrographique des cotes occidentales du Centre Amerique, executee par la corvette La Brilliante, sous le commandement de M. T. de Lapelin, 1852. Renseignements sur le Centre Amerique recneillis pendant le voyage de La Melanie, 1828, par A. Maire, capitaine aa long cours. Reconnaissance hydrographique des cotes occidentales du Centre Amerique, province de Veraguas (Nouvelle Grenade) par M. de Rosencoat, capitaine de fregate, commandant L'Obli^ado, en 1854. Exploration du territoirc de I'Oregon, des Califomies et de la mer Vermeille executee pendant les annees 1840, 1841 et 1842 par M. Duflot de Mofras, attache a la Legation de France a Mexico. Voyage antour du monde, sur la fregate La Venus, commandee par Abel du Petit-Thouars. Par C. de Tessan. Gran Almanaque Mexicano y Directorio del Comercio, 1867. Numerous " Notices to Mariners " and Charts issued by the Govemmenta of the United States, Great Britain and France. T <^ CONTENTS. OENERAIi BEHABKS ON CENTBAL AMERICA AND MEXICO. The Provinces, 1 ; San Salvador and Honduras, 2 ; Nicaragaa and Costa Bica, 8 ; Lake of Nicaragua, 4 ; Productions, precious metals, &c., 5. GULF OF PANAMA. Cape Corrientes, 6 ; Utria, Solano, Cupica and Octavia bays, 7 ; Pinas, Garachine and San Miguel bays, 8; Rivers Trinidad and Chiman, 11; Chepo river, 12 ; Panama, 12 ; Perico and Flamenco islands, 15 ; Taboga island, 16 ; Urava and Taboguilla islands, 17 ; Tides and Sailing instruc- £ tions, 17 ; Chame and Parita bays, 18 ; Cape Mala, 19 ; Pearl islands, 19 ; Winds, currents, passages, &c., 28. CAPE MALA TO CAPE CORRIENTES. Frailes islets, 25 ; Montigo bay, Cebaco and Gobernador islands, Bahia Houda, 26 ; Monita and Rosario bays, 28 ; Pueblo Nuevo, 28 ; San Lorenzo and David bays, 30 ; Parida island, 82; Point Burrica and Coiba island, 83; Hicarons islets, 35 ; Rancheria, Contreras and Secas islets, 86 ; Montuosa and Ladrones islets, 37 ; Gulf of Didce, 37 — 40 ; Points Sal-si-puedes and Llorena 41, ; Cano island, river Aguja, Sierpe bay and Sacate island, 42 ; Points Mala de los Indioa, Ubita, Dominical and Quepos 43 Point Mala or Judas, 44 ; Port Herradura, 45 ; Gulf of Nicoya, 45 — 49 Culebra bay, 49 ; Elena and Salinas bays, 51 ; San Juan del Sur, 52 Gulf of the Papatiaijos, 53 ; Cape Dosolado and the mountains visible from sea, 55 ; Realejo, 56 ; Coast between Realejo and the gulf of Fonseca, 60 — 62 ; Gulf of Fonseca, 62 — 68 ; Jiquilisco 69 ; River Lempa and Libertad, 70 ; Acajutla, 72 ; Istapa, 75 ; San Jose, 76 ; Tehuantepec lagoons, Ventosa bay, &c., 78 ; Morro Ayu'ia and Guatulco, 81 ; Punta de Zipegua, 83 ; Sacrificios, 87 ; Acapulco, S8 ; Sihuatanejo, 90 ; Manzanilla bay, 98 ; Navidad bay, 95 ; Tenacatita and Perula bays, 97 ; Cape Corrientes, 98. CAPE CORRIENTES TO CAPE SAN LUCAS (OULF OF CALIFORNIA.) Yalle de Banderas bay, 98 ; Maria islands, 99 ; San Bias, 100 ; Isabel island, Tecapau and Chamatla rivers, 104 ; Mazatlan, 105 ; Piastla and Culiacan CONTENTS. IZ rivers, Altata, 107 ; Ignacio point and island, 109 ; Gnaymas, 110 ; San Estevan and Angeles islands, 118; River Colorado, 114; Gape San Lucas, 117; San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo bays, 118 ; Geralbo and Espiritu Santo islands, I.a Paz bay, 119 ; Pichilinque and La Paz harbours, the islands of San Josef, San Diego, Santa Cruz, Catalina and Mont- serrate, 120 ; Carmen island, Jjorcto, 121 ; Mulege bay, 122 ; San Marcos island, &c., 124. and Costa &c., 5. CAPB SAN LUCAS TO POttT CONOBPOION. Magdalena bay, l'':-'> ; Cape San Lazaro, 128 ; Ballenas bay and lagoons, 129 ; Asuncion o ^ San Roqae islands, Sai' Bartolome, 129 ; Point Seen Eugenio, ISO; Lagoons of the coast, 180— 182 ; Natividad island, 132 ; Cerros island, 183 ; San Benito islands, Flaya Maria, San Quontin, 184 ; Colnett bay, Coronados islets, San Diego, 185 , San luia Rey and San Juan Capistrano, 188 ; San Pedro, 189 ; Santa Anna Lagoon, Bahia Oua, Point Hueneme, Buenaventura, &c., 140; Santa Barbara, 141; El Coxo, 142 ; Point Concepcion, 143. , 7 ; Pinas, 3himan, 11 ; 15 ; Taboga ling instruc- islands, 19 ; THE ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA. Bitumen pit 144 ; Cortez bank 145 ; San Clemente and Santa Catalina islands 146 ; Santa Barbara island 147 ; San Nicolas, Begg rock and Anacapa island 148 ; Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa islands 149 ; San Miguel and Richardson rocks 150. ands, Bahia San Lorenzo a island, 88 ; ; Montuosa Sal-si-puedes and Sacate Quepos 48 ; ya, 45 — 49 ; ' lei Sur, 52 ; 1 visible from the gulf of River Lempa Tehuantepec 0, 81 ; Punta latanejo, 90 ; ula bays, 97 ; RNIA.) ; Isabel island, I and Culiacan pomr CONCEPCION to point beybs. Point Arguello 150 ; Point Sal, San Luis Obispo 151 ; San Simeon bay 152 ; Piedras Blancas, Punta Gorda, point Sur, Carmel bay &c. 158; Point Pinos, Monterey bay &c., 154 — 158; Santa Cruz 158; Point Ano Nuevo, Half-moon bay, &c., 159 ; San Francisco bay, 161 — 169 ; Duxbury reef, 169; Drake bay, point Reyes, &c., 170. ■Mi THE FARALLONES. South Faiallon, 171 ; Middle and North Farallons, Noonday rock, &o., 172. POINT REYES TO CAPE CLASBET. Tomales bay and Bodega head, 178 ; Bodega bay, fort Ross, &c., 174 ; Haven anchorage, 175 ; Point Arena, Albion river, &c., 176 ; Mendocino bay, 177; Shelter cove, point Gorda, cape Mendocino, &c., 178; Cape Fortunas, Eel river, Humboldt bay, &c., 179; Mad river, Trinidad head and bay, 182 ; Redding rock and Klamath river, 188 ; Crescent City bay, 184 ; Point Stvint George and Dragon rocks, 185 ; Pelican bay, Chet-ko river. Rogues river, &c., 186 ; Port Orford, 187 ; Elk river, 188 ; Cape Orford and its reef, 189 : Coquille river, 190 ; Cape Arago, 191 ; Koos bay, 192 ; Umpquah river, 198 ; Hecate bank, cape Perpetua, Yaquinuah and Celeste rivers, 195 ; Capes Foulweather and Lookout, Nekas river, 196 ; Cape Meares and Tillamook bay, 197 ; Cape Falcon and Tillamook head, 198 ; Columbia river, 199 — 204 ; Shoalwater bay, 204; CONTENTS. Gray harbour, 208 ; Copalis river 210 ; Point Grenville, 211 ; Qnenintl river, Destruction island, 212 ; Flattery rocks and Tatoosh island, 214 ; Donoan and Dontze rocks, cape Classet, &c., 216. STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA. General remarks on the Tides and Navigation, 216 — 222 ; Nee-ah bay, 222 ; Callam bay, 224 ; Freshwater bay, 225 ; Port Angelos, 226 ; Ediz Hook to New DuMgoness, 227 ; New Dungeness bay, 228 ; Washington har- bour, 229 ; Protection island and port Discovery, 280 ; Point Wilson, 280 ; Bonilla point and San Juan bay, 288 ; Sherringham point and Sooke inlet, 284 ; Secretary island, Becher bay, &c., 235 ; Cape Church, Bentinck ' island, Bace islands, &c., 286 ; Pedder and Parry bays, Esquimalt harbour, &c., 237; Victoria harbour, 239; Brotchy ledge, 240; Trial islands, Gonzales point. Oak bay, &c., 242 ; Cadboro bay and Chain islets, 248 ; Discoveiy and Chatham islands, 244 ; Cadboro point, Con- stance and Fonte banks, 245. ADMIRALlTf INLET, PUGET SOUND AND HOOD CANAL. Smith island. Kelp banks, &c., 246 ; Admiralty inlet, 247 ; port Townshend, 248 ; Admiralty head, 250 ; Foulweather bluff, 251 ; ports Madison and Orchard, Duwanish bay, &c., 252 ; Restoration point, 253 ; Brace point, 254 ; Colvos passage. Commencement bay, point Defiance, the Narrows, Pugat sound, Steilacoom, &c.,265; Nisqually, Olympia, 256; Hood canal, ports Ludlow and Gamble, 257 ; Suquamish and Hahainish harbours, 258 ; head of Hood canal, 259. i POSSESSION SOUND AND ANCHORAGES. Whidbey island, Fidalgo island, &c., 259; Deception passage, Possession sound, ports Susan and Gardner, Penn cove, Ac, 260. HARO ARCHIPELAGO. Haro strait, 262—264 ; Rosario strait, 264—268 ; Alden bank, 268 ; Genea remarks on the navigation, 268. GULF OF QSOBOIA: EASTERN SIDE TO FRASBB BTVEB. Bellingham bay, 269 ; Birch bay, Drayton harbour, 270 ; Semi-ah-moo point Roberts, and Fraser river, 271 — 276. SOUTH-WEST COAST OF ?ANCOUVEB ISLAND. General remarks upon the geography of the island, 275—281 ; Remarks upon the hydrography of the island, 281—282; Barclay sound, 282—284; Clayoquot sound, 284 — 286 ; Refuge cove, 286 ; Hesquiat harbour, Estevan point, Nootica sound, &c., 287 — 291; Nuchatlitz inlet, 291; Esperanza inlet, 292 ; Kyuquot sound, 224 ; Barrier islands, Ou-ou-kinsh and Nas- parti inlets, 295 ; Brooks peninsula and bay, 296 ; Quatsino sound, 297 ; Forward inlet and Koprino harbour, 299 ; San Josef bay. Sea Otter cove and cape Scott, 802 ; Soott islands, 808. CONTENTS. QUNN CHABLOTTB ISLANDS. General remarks on the islands, cape St. James, &c., 804 ; Houston Stewart channel, 805 ; Rose, Gamshewas and Skidcgate harbours, 806 ; Masset harboar and Virago sound, 808 ; Parry passage and Hippa island, 809 ; Buck point, Inskip channel, Moore channel, Mitchell or Gold harbour, 810; Douglas and Tasso harbours, 811 ; Winds, tides and geographical posi- tions, 811. ISLANDS AND BOOKS OFF THE COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA AND OALIFOBNIA. Cocos island, 812 ; Malpelo island and Clipperton rock, 815 ; Socorro, 817 ; San Benedicto, Roca Partida and Clarion islands, 818 ; Alijos rocks and Guadaloupe island, 819. TABLE OF POSITIONS AND VABIATION. Cape Corrientes to Haro archipelago, 820 — 825 ; Vancouver island and coast adjoining, 825 — 827 ; the islands off the coast, 827. APPENDIX. Winds on the western coast of America and the Pacific, 828 — 842 ; General remarks on passages to various ports, 842 — 851 ; Remarks on passages to and from various ports in the Pacific, 851 — 860 ; Remarks on the coast of Mexico and gulf of California, by M. Duflot de Mofras, 860 — 871 ; Remarks on various ports in the gulf of California, by Lieut. L. Detroyat, 872 ; Remarks on the trading posts of Russian America, 874 — 878 ; Table of geographical positions determined in 1852, by M. Lapelin, of the French Imperial Navy, 879. LIST OF PLATES. Ban Frauoisco Bay Mazatlan . . Ooajmai MangleB Boad, Amortajada Pichilinque, Salinaa Magdalena Bay San Diego - . Monterey , . Bodega Bay Boyal Bay . . Barclay Sonnd To face the Title. Page 105 110 120 125 135 154 174 237 282 The charts of the coast of North America published by Messrs. Imray & Son, of which tbisiwork may be considered the accompanying Memoir are the following : — COAST of NORTH AMERICA, from COIBA ISLAND to SAN BLAS ; one large sheet With plans, on a large scale, of the harbours of Sihuatanejo, Acapulco, Guatulco, San Carlos, Realejo, Salinas, Culebra, Punta Arenas, Arenitas, San Blaa, and illustrated with some views of the coast. Drawn from the Spanish surveys, and the surveys of Captain Beechey and Commander Belcher, of the Royal Navy 6b. Od. COAST of NORTH AMERICA from SAN BLAS to SAN FRANCISCO BAT, on two large sheets, with plans of the harbours of Mazatlan, Magdalen Bay, Guaymas, Monterey, San Francisco, &o. Compiled chiefly from the United States Coast Survey, the Spanish surveys, &c. &c., and much improved by recent observations made by English and French Naval officers 10s. Od COAST of»NORTH AMERICA from SAN FRANCISCO to QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS, on two large sheets, with many plans of harbours, including St. Juan de Fuca Strait, Port Victoria, Nootka Sound, Port San Juan, Beoher and Pedder Bays, and Esquimault Harbour . . . . 10s. Od. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. *Hc* The Bearhins and Courses are Magnetic. The Depths are those at low water sprinff tides. The Distances are in Nautical miles of 60 to a Degree of Latittid^. N.B. — As the Latitndes in this work are North of the Equator, and the Longitades art West of Oreenvich, the distinctive letters N. and W. are omitted. COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO. Central America includes all the territory lying between Mexico on the north, and the isthmus of Panama, on the south. In length 700 miles, and of very variable breadth, it nevertheless contains 192,000 English square miles, or more than twice the extent of Great Britain. Situated in the torrid zone, between latitude 8° and 18°, longitude 81^° to 98°, it at once separates the Atlantic from the Pacific ocean, and unites the continents of North and South America ; a position as important commercially, as it is geographi- cally remarkable and unique. It includes the independent states of Guatemala, San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua,* and Costa Rica, with the British colony of Belize, or British Honduras. It is bounded on the north by Mexico ; on the south-west by the Pacific ; and on the east by the Caribbean sea, and the bay of Honduras. The five states of Central America nearly correspond, at the present time, with the " Intendencias," as they existed under Spanish Colonial rule. Their boundaries arc pretty clearly deihied, and vary hut little. They are subdivided into departments, and districts ; the latter applying to the less peopled, thoagh often extensive tracts, covered with almost impenetrable forests. * The Mosquito state of Nicaragua. B territory, formerly under British protection, is now included in th« 2 COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. The Btato of Guatemala iucludeN a connidorable aud populous hlgliland district to the south and weHt, while to the northward, vast territories, such as those of Vera Paz and El Peten, are but thinly inhabited. It has the largest population (nearly one million), and far surpasses the other states in import ance. Its growing trade, is considerable, and principally carried on with the English. Istnpa and St. Thomas are the principal seaports. The exports are numerous, coiisisting chiefly of cotton, wheat, cocoa, sugar, coffee, dyewoods, metals, and cochineal. In 1860 the imports amounted to $1,484,700, and the exports to ^1,916,800. In lat. 14° 41', long. 90° 86', is Guatemala la Nueva, a fiew city, the inhabitants having abandoned the old city on account of earthquakes. This is the present capital, and though a comparatively mean looking place of one storied houses, it may on many accounts be considered as the principal town in Central America. It is situated on the border of one of the elevated plateaux of the main Cordillera, known as Los Lhnios de las Vucas, or the valley of Harmita. This plain is surrounded by bold ranges of mountains, among which stand prominent the two lofty volcanoes of Aijiia and Fuetfo, and a third called El Volcnn de Pncaya, which is scarcely, if at all, inferior to them. The plain is about 5000 feet above the level of the sea, and is 15 miles wide and 18 broad. The climate though considered inferior to that of Antigua or old Guatemala, is mild and salubrious. The thermometer rarely rises above 70°, and still more rarely descends below 64°. The number of inhabitants, who are chiefly Ladinos, the mixed or Mestizo race, and pure Creole Spaniards, the unmixed descendants of Spanish colonists, is estimated at 60,000 ; and in importance and wealth, it is second, in Spanish America, only to the city of Mexico. The state of San Salvador is situated on the western coast. Its climate is hot, but more healthy than that on the eastern shores — perhaps because the land is better cleared and cultivated. The chief products of this state are indigo, and tobacco. The city of San Salvador, its capital, only a few miles distant from the Pacific ocean, was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1864, prior to which it contained 20,000 inhabitants ; but it is now reviving : during a short period it was the seat of the Federal Union, and, like Washington, it had at that time a certain territory around the city, distinguished as the Federal District. Cojutopeque is an important town with 15,000 inhabitants, and Sonsonate with 10,000 inhabitants is famous for its distilleries. The principal seaports are Acajutla, Libertad and La Uuion. In 1860 the imports amounted to $1,819, 800, and the exports to $2,840,800. The state of Honduras takes its name from the bay of Honduras, (signifying depths,) which forms its northern boundary. The first navigators so denomi- nated it, because they with difficulty obtained soundings in it. The surface of the ground is, in this state, even more generally uneven than elsewhere. Its population is scanty in comparison with the two former states ; and, like Guatemala, it still comprises vast districts of virgin forests, partially peopled by Indians. The climate, like that of the other states, is varied, being generally temperate in the interior, which is notable for its mines, — and hot near tiie coasts, which abound vrith rivers, from the banks of which much mahogany and sarsapai-illa are obtained. Oomayagua (formerly Yalladolid) the capital, is a city of some importance, with 18,000 inhabitants. This state possesses two Bea-ports, Traxillo and Omoa, which were active as military and commer- cial depots of Spain, but are now fallen into comparative decay. Teguci- galpa has gold, silver and copper mines in its vicinity. COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 8 ind district ;h as those he largest 8 in import jn with the .'he exports , dyewoods, 14,700, and w city, the ikes. This place of one [pal town in :,ed plateaux le valley of tins, among and Fiief/o, all, inferior sea, and is . inferior to thermometer The number CO, and pure is estimated ish America, limate is hot, luse the land e are indigo, miles distant 1 1854, prior during a Washington, it ished as the O inhabitants, illcries. The the imports as, (signifying )rs so denomi- The surface sewhere. Its !s ; and, like rtially peopled varied, being —and hot near uch mahogany the capital, is a possesses two and commer- jcay. Teguci- The state of Nicaragua is exceedingly fertile, and generally salubrious ; but, notwithstanding its possessing several advantages over Honduras, it is but little more populms. This may partly bo accounted for by the absence of any leading branch of industry, or any considerable activity in its commerce, but still more by its frequent civil wars. In a land surpassingly volcanic, this state is pre-eminently so. The very roads, in some parts, sound hollow under the hoofs of the mules or horses. Leon, the capital, and Granada are large cities, and once et\joyed great wealth and commercial prosperity ; but, like all chief towns in Central America, they have suffered much from crime and consequent internal disorganization, as well as from civil wars, political com- motions, and misrule. These cities, fi-om the highest rank in repute and influence, are now reduced to little better than heaps of ruins, scantily inhabited, and, where best, affording abundant evidence of both earlier and more recent devastations. Leon, between lake Managua and the Pacific, is said to have contained at one time 82,000 people ; it is now reduced to less than half that number. Granada one of the oldest cities in Central America has about 10,000 inhabitants; it is beautifully situated on the N.W. shore of the lake Nicaragua. The town of Nicaragua, about 86 miles south-east of Granada, though inferior in size and importance, gives its name to the state and the lake. Like Granada, it is advantageously situated on its banks, opposite the populous island of Ometepec, which is in the lake, and contains an active volcano. Great interest at present attaches to this state and its waters, in connection with the long formed and often talked-of project of connecting the two oceans at this point, which is now about to be put to the test of experiment, if not actually to be realized. The Central America state which at present enjoys the greatest degree of tranquility and political prosperity, is Costa Bica. Its isolated position on the narrower part of the isthmus of Panama, making communication with the other states dilticult, has preserved it in a great measure from participating in the wars that have desolated the rest of the country ; a circumstance which, conjointly with a great accession of commercial vigour, arising out of the successful cultivation of cofl'oe, has given it of late an impulse unknown to the sister states. While other large cities have been decaying, San Jose, its new capital, has risen into importance within a very few years, and already numbers upwards of 80,000 inhabitants. Cartage, the fonner capital, and two other towns of some magnitude (Heredia and Alajuela) occupy, with the modern capital, an extensive table-land stretching almost across the isthmus. These towns, together with two or three small ports on each ocean, include almost the entire population (126,750) of this compact and tliriving state. In 1860 the imports amounted to $911,000, and the exports to $1,878,900. The principal lake in Central America is that of Nicaragua, whose surplus waters descend to the Atlantic by the river San Juan del Norte. It is an inland sea, larger than the island of Jamaica, being 90 miles long N.W. to S.E., and about 40 miles broad ; with an area of about 8500 square miles. In many places the water is 10 to 15 fathoms deep, and it is stated that there are but few shallows. It contains a small archipelago of islands, and on one fertile and populous island, named Ometepec, there is a volcano. This lake is also connected with that called Managua, itself no inconsiderable body of water. The shores of these magnificent waters, which are likely to afford important facilities for commerce, are of surpassing fertility, B 8 I ■i 4 COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. and as salubrious as thoy are beautiful. It is from tbe lake of Nicaragua that the canal is proposed to be cut, connecting the lake with the port of San Juan dei Sur, on the Pacific. Not far from the western or Pacific coast, the country is traversed from north-west to south-east by a continuous cordillera or unbroken chain of mountains, unbroken at least as far as the lake of Nicaragua, which are covered with diversified vegetation. This forms a kind of connecting chain between the rocky mountains of the north, and tho Andes of the South Ameri- can continent. Some of the loftiest summits are 12,000 feet high. Frequent spurs or offsets from the *' Sierra Madre," the main ridge, intersect the plains at right angles, and sometimes extend to the sea shore. At various degrees of elevation along the sides and on the summits of the mountains, are numerous plateaux or table-lands, like so many natural terraces, some of them of great extent, and all delightfully temperate and luxuriantly fertile. These regions especially seem to invite the residence of man, and to invite the culture of his hand. They constitute a distinguishing feature of this and some neighbouring countries. But none of those countries, and probably no part of the earth, presents a greater diversity of level on a surface of equal extent than does Central America ; consequently, no country possesses such variety of climate, or offers such facilities of adaptation to all kinds of productions and to all constitutions of men, from the sun-burnt inhabitants of a tropical plain, to the hardy mountaineer inured to perpetual snows. Most of the highest peaks and isolated mountains are volcanoes. The rocks are of granite, gneiss, and basalt ; but volcanic formations and ejections pre- dominate. Not less *ha,u thirty volcanic vents are said to be still in activity. Thri traces of remote, as well as recent earthquakes are clearly discernible in tiue .issures and ravines that everywhere abound. Extinct craters, rent rocks, bi'iJs of lava, scoriae, vitrified, charred, and pumice stones, together with hot ■*nd sulphureous springs, all mark it as the most volcanic region known. Indeed, shocks of earthquakes, generally slight, are periodically felt at the opening and closing of the wet season. The productions of Central America are numerous. Abundant materials for exchange with other nations are afforded in cotton, coffee, sugar-cane, arrow- root, ginger, tobacco, and even silk-worms, though but lately imported ; but especially in "anil" (indigo), and "grana" (cochineal), which, because most lucrative, absorb almost all the attention of the planter. Other marketable productions are not wanting ; but both known and unknown sources of wealth decay in the forests, or lie hidden beneath the soil. Besides these, the more temperate regions yield all, or nearly all, the productions which are raised in Europe. Wheat and barley are cultivated sometimes by the side of the sugar-cane, on the elevated plains ; and the markets of the larger towns are supplied at once with the productions of torrid and of temperate climes ; 60 that, at all seasons, the green pea, the cauliflower, and cos-lettuce, are sold along with the avocato-pear, sweet potato, olive, capsicum, or chillies, and many other productions of opposite climates, less delicate, perhaps, but more common and useful. Of edible fruits, those most common are the banana, pine-apple, orange, sweet lemon, lime, shaddock, forbidden fruit, water-melon, musk-melon, sapote, mango, guava, fig, tamarind, pomegranate, granadilla (fruit of the passion flower), sea-grape, papia, mammae, star and custard-apples, cocoa, cashew, and ground nuts. There are said to be in all " more than forty genera," including, probably, those introduced from Europe, such as the apple, COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. aragua that of San Juan versed from ;n chain of , which are ecting chain outh Ameri- . Frequent ct the plains mmits of the iral terraces, i luxuriantly man, and to Qg feature of mntries, and on a surface itry possesses all kinds of inhabitants of [>W3. I. The rocks ejections pre- ill in activity, discernible in IS, rent rocks, Dther with hot region known, illy felt at the it materials for ,r-oane, arrow- imported ; but , because most ler marketable irces of wealth les these, the ions which are 1 by the side of le larger towns tperate climes ; Bttuce, are sold or chillies, and haps, but more are the banana, it, water-melon, late, granadilla custard-apples, more than forty ch as the apple, pear, quince, cherry, &c., which, though they ore found to thrive, arc little appreciated, and none of any sort can be said to be cultivated with care. The same remark applies, though with frequent exceptions, to garden flowers, which are still more varied. It has been well observed by Mr. Frederick Crowe, that "the precious metals of Central America, together with quicksilver, copper, lead, iron, talo, litharge, and most other minerals that are in use, only await the labour and ingenuity of man to extract them from the bowels of the earth, and convert them into objects of convenience and beauty ; and seams of coal, ochre, gyp- sum, sal-ammoniac, and wells of naptha, are also ready to yield their valuable stores. Jasper, opal, and other precious stones are also found ; and pearl fisheries have long existed upon the coasts. In fine, there is no lack of any thing that nature can bestow to sustain, to satisfy, and to delight. So abundant are the necessaries of life that none need want ; so profuse are the bounties of nature that they are suffered to decay through neglect. The peach-tree and the rose run mid on the borders of the orange grove, whose fruits and flowers are alike simultaneous and perennial ; and the pine-apple, the mango, and the water melon are preferred to the almond, the olive, and the grape. Such is the nature of the soil, that the exuberance of that wealth which rots upon its surface in the less populous parts of Central America, would amply clothe and satisfy with bread tiiousands of the sons of want who fill our streets and unions, dispelling that squalid wretchedness which penury and destitution have pro- duced, and mitigating some of the woes which embitter the lot of so many of our fellow-countrymen. It may be that the time is not far distant when many such will seek these fruitful shores, and under wise direction, not only benefit themselves, but, while redeeming fertile valleys and plains from desolation, greatly bless the timid natives with higher arts of life. Lying between the parallels of 10° to 18°, and almost insular as to any influence of the continent on its temperature, the climate of the coasts and lowlands is hot and humid. That of the interior varies with the altitude, and is generally mild, equable, and salubrious. The two seasons, aptly designated the ' wet' and the ' dry.' are well defined. They may be said equally to divide the year, though they vary considerably in different districts. The rains, everywhere copious, are more continual in some parts, and the drought is more severe in others, but the dry season is nowhere uninterrupted by refiresh- ing showers, and the wet is everywhere relieved by an interval of dry weather. In the highlands of the interior, the seasons are singularly regular. The dry weather commences about the close of October, and terminates on the 12th or 18th of May, rarely varying oven a few hours. It is most frequently on the 12th that ' the windows of heaven are opened' The sky is then suddenly obscured with thick clouds, which burst siuiultaneously, often accompanied with thunder, and sometimes with hail. This is confined to the afternoon, and returns on the following days, or perhaps for successive weeks, at the same hour, or a little later. During the whole of the wet season, which is by far the most agreeable, the forenoon is almost invariably cloudless, and the atmosphere clear, elastic, and balmy. The rains are often confined to the evening and night, or to the night hours only. During the dry season, the mornings and evenings are often so cool and bracing as to predispose to active exercise, though fires are never resorted to. Through the day the sky is seldom obscured, and light clouds only are to be seen sweeping rapidly along the plains during the short twilight that ushers in the equinoctial day, Ihcnce 'M 6 CAPE CORRIENTES. they rise and hang in clnsters round the tops of the mountains till the sun has gathered strength to dispel them ; in the evening they return to attend its setting, and add inimitable beauty to the gorgeous scene. At all seasons the entire disc of the moon is distinctly visible tbrough all its phases, but now it shines with such uninterrupted clearness, as entirely to supersede, when above the horizon, the necessity of artificially lighting the streets ; and even in the absence of the ruler of the night, the brilliancy of the stars dispels all gloom. In some districts on the eastern coasts, through local influences, it rains more or less all the year ; which, however, adapts them for the growth of certain vegetable productions ; while the districts where the dry weather lasts the longest are alone suitable for the cultivation of others. On the more elevated plains, such as those of Quesaltenango, in the department of Los Altos, the heat is never so great has during '.he summer mouths in England ; and though Enow is said sometimes to fall in December a^d January, it immediately dissolves, and the thermometer never descends so low as the fi'eezing point." GULF OF PANAMA, The southern limits of the gulf of Panama are usually considered to be point Garachine and cape Mala. The coast immediately south of the gulf is not properly included within the limits of the present work, but as many ship- masters using it, may make the gulf from southward, it is considered convenient to commence our description of the coast with cape Corrientes. CAFE CORRIENTiJL^, the south-west extremity of which is in lat. 5° 28' 46", long. 77° 82' 88", may be easily known by the dome-like peaks of Anana, about 1500 feet high, which rise directly over it ; this is the first high land north of Monte Christo (in Lat. 1° 8' 40", Long. 80° 40',) and generally makes like an island fi'om southward. It is densely wooded firom the summit to high water mark, and the almost constant rains giving a bright green colour to the peaks. At about 8 miles northward of the cape is Alusea point, the northern extreme of the promontory. The water off this projecting point of land is deep, 50 fathoms being found close to the rocks, and 100 at a distance of less than 8 miles. In the vicinity of the cape the current appears to set constantly northward. On the south side of cape Corrientes is Cabita bay, situated eastward of a high rocky point, distant abort 8 miles from the cape ; although open to south- ward, there is here good anchoraqe, with a capital watering place. Vessels may lie in 18 fathoms at about f of u mile from the stream in the bight of the bay, with the western horn bearing S.W by W. On the eastern side of the bay the high bold land suddenly terminatos, and ik boach, with low river land commences, extending, with the exception of the cliffs north of the river Buenaventura (in lat. 8" 49',) and that of Cctscajal point, as far south as the river Esmeralda, a distance of 400 miles. At about B miles south-eastward from the watering-place is the mouth of the river Jeya, southward of which is a remarkable perforated rock named Iglesib (or Church) de Sevira. The coast from Alusea point northward trends eastward 14 miles to the river Nuki, a small mountain stream ; the shorr, between consists alternately of bluffs and sandy beaches, with a few rivulets. At about 8 miles N.N.\V. from the river Nuki is a cluster of higu rocks, facing, at the distanco of UTRIA ; SOLANO, CUPICA, AND OCTAVIA BAYS. the sun has attend its seasons the but now it when above 1 even in the Is all gloom. it rains more th of certain ler lasts the aore elevated )s Altos, the and though immediately sing point." idered to be of the gulf is is many ship- ed convenient which is in ihe dome-like it ; this is the 80° 40',) and wooded from iving a bright ;ape is Alusea his projecting and 100 at a I the current eastward of a open to south- ace. Vessels le bight of the m side of the low river land of the river r south as the outh -eastward southward of !h) de Sevira. [ miles to the Bts alternately miles N.N.W. le distance of 2 miles, the river Ghiru, another mountain stream ; and 3 miles northward of these rocks is the Morro Ghico, a pinnacle of a similar nature. From these rocks the coast runs in the same direction, high, rugged, and woody, nearly 8 miles to Port Utria. UTRIA. — This harbour is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction by I a mile broad, and has an average depth of 12 fathoms. It is formed on the east side by a lofty but narrow peninsula, which has two islets and some detached rocks off its south point. The entrance is south-eastward of the^e ; it has no hidden dangers, the shores being steep. The eastern side consists of a sandy beach, which runs out to a spit 2^ miles within the entrance ; at this point the harbour is only a J of a, mile across, but northward of it, it widens and forms a commodious basin. The situation of port Utria will be easily known by Play a Baia, a bea 'T; I:,. ? behind it, extends to the north-west for ^4 miles, as far as Ardi+« ' f y. (>» Lib part of the coast are the mouths of two small streams, the C .auhi'^hi and the Ouredo, both of which are barred. This whole coast, like that to the southward, is thinly inhabited, huts being generally found in the bays and in the vicinity of the numerous small rivers. Ardita bay, may be known by a small islet lying off it. From Ardita bay to Pinas point, a distance of 82 miles, the coast is lugh, ragged, and thickly wooded, having deep water close to the shore, with the exception of two small bays situated about 20 miles northward of Ardita ; the northern one, Gusgava, has convenient anchorage ; — ^there is also a beach directly south of Pinas point. PINAS BAY in lat. 7° 84', is about 8 miles northward of Pinas point. It affords the best anchorage between Octavia bay and Garachine point. It is 2 miles deep by 1^ miles wide, with an average depth of 10 fathoms, and is open to south-westward, from which quarter occasional squalls in the wet season, throw a considerable swell into it. The head of th^ luy consists of a beach, little more than 1 mile in length, with low land be'.'rJ it ; the sides of the bay are high and rocky. Good water may be obtaircci >!(>tik a stream at the west extreme of the beach, which is protected fr :■ ti-'^ "••■<;' by a small natural mole on its western side. Vessels may ancL. r, -u^c^.*, { a mile from the watering place in 8 fathoms ; in the wet season tht;y chousx I-^op more on the west side of the bay in 12 fathoms, with the end ^r -^e rrole bearing N. by W. Off the western point of the bay an the Cent; v..,b, two high barren rocks. OABACHINE BAY. From Pinas bay a high, bold, and wooded coast trends northward 88 miles to point Garachine. At about 8 miles south-west from this point is cape Escaipado, off which is an islet named Ct^ualo. The land over point Garachine is lofty, and mount Zapo (5 miles from the coast), will be noticed as a sharp conical peak, rising to an elevation of about 8000 feet. Garach'jie bay, north-eastward of the point, between it and Patena point, is shoal; its shore consists of low mangrov. nd, forming the mouths of the river Sambo, which is fronted with mud I. ; " intending 8 miles from the coast. At the entrance of the western month i -. * nobk of Garachine, a small collection of hnls. Fronting the bay, iii , direct line between Garachine and Patena points is a bank 6^ miles long, with patches of 15 feet water on it, and 4 and /> f.»tb'».ns inside ; and 4 miles N.W. by W. from the former point, is a 8i.rl( p«tch of 4i fathoms, with 6 and 8 fathoms close to it. There is anchor, ge clo'w, o' • '.her of these points, the water being deep in their vicinity. SAN MIOUEL BAY, is immediately north of Garachine bay. The entrance ifi 6^ miles mde, between Brava point on the north and Patena point on the south. At about 2 miles E.S.E. from Brava point is Lorenzo point, off which, within the bay are Iguana and Napoleon islets, the former is about 1 \ miles long, and is the larger of the two — 8 miles northward of these is the mouth of the river Congo. J* I ■'■5 STANLEY ISLAND. rd of them; and thickly le detached n. Thence asing at the boat, from «nds to the le coast are )do, both of d, is thinly jinity of the Blet lying off oast is high, re, with the Ardita; the Jso a beach Pinas point. point. It is doms, and is s in the wet consists of a the sides of a stream at ' by a small I a mile from l-?op more on jrole bearing .,8, two high wooded coast les south-west !!&jualo. The }m the coast), ■ about 8000 t and Patena ig the mouths 8 miles from of Garachine, line between jhes of 16 feet y W. from the horns close to ter being deep ne bay. The i Patena point jorenzo point, ormer is about of these is the From Iguana island eastward the bay opens, being nearly 11 miles across, and at 7 miles north-eastward of the island is Pierce point, a rocky projecoion on the north shore. The western side of the bay between Lorenzo and Pierce points is little krtwn, but is reported to be shoal. The eastern side has plenty of water along it ; off Patena point, which is just separated from the main enough to make it an island, there is no known danger ; at 2^ miles inside this, in a N.N.E. direction, is Colorado point, bold and rocky, with a conspicuous patch of reddish clay on its face, the coast between forming a bay. The land then for 1^ miles gradually decreases in height to Hamilton point, when it falls back to the eastward, and bonds round again to the north, forming a bay 8^ miles across, with low mangrove shores, having a village and anchorage in it ; but as there are some ledges of rocks in this bay that do not always show, great caution is necessary in using it, and a boat should be first sent in to point out the deep water. In the entrance to San Miguel bay, at a short distance from the north shore, there is an extensive bank, named Buey, upon which the sea breaks heavily ; it is 6 miles in circumference, and some of its patches are dry at low water. Its inner edge lies nearly 1^ miles south-westward from Lorenzo point ; the passage between should not be used, as there are only 10 feet least water in it, and generally a heavy swell. A spit of 12 feet extends 1^ miles from its south-west end ; and as only 4^ fathoms are found at nearly 5 miles south- west from the bank, vessels should not stand within that depth. Colorado point, kept open of Patena point bearing N.E., is a good mark to clear thia bank, and also for running into San Miguel bay. At about 12 miles eastward from Lorenzo point, and consequently within the entrance of San Miguel bay, is Washington island, an islet 8 cables length long, as many broad, and densely covered with wood. It lies nearly 8^ miles N.N.E. from Hamilton point, and between it and the nearest shore are several islets and rocks. The channel up the bay is northward of this island, between it and Jones island, a conspicuous little rock about 20 feet high, and covered with grass, lying li^ miles to the N.W. by W. of it. The coast from abreast of Washington island takes a northerly direction for about 6 miles to Stanley island ; in this space are several little bays, lined with mangrove, the points generally being of small elevation, rocky, and covered with bush. The channel is between the coast and a group of islands OP the west, of which the easternmost is named Strain ; this little island is about 26 feet high, covered with trees and scrub, and surrounded by a ledge of rocks extending a short distance off it towards the channel, but connected by raud banks with two islands westward of it. At this point Barry rock, an islet 20 feet high, and covered with cacti, lying about 8 cables from the eastern shore, contracts the channel to 1 mile in width ; apparently there is deep water all round this rock, but the passage on its west side being by far the widest, most direct, and sounded, there can bo r j object in using the other. The channel continues of about the same breadth to Virago point, a distance of 2^ miles. When working through do not go within a line drawn from one island to the other, and avoid Bains bluff, 1 mile southward of Virago point, where there is a dangerous ledge of rocks at 8 cables from the shore. Stanley Islarid,, a low wooded island 1^^ miles long by 1 mile broad, divides the channel into two passages, both leading into Darieu harbour ; the principal one, or Boca Grande, being a continuation of the bay of San Miguel in a I I r' 10 BOCA CHICA, BOCA GRANDE, AND DARIEN HARBOUR. northerly direction past the west and north sides of Stanley island, and the other, or Boca Chica, between its southern side and Virago point. The latter channel, although much shorter, is too nan'ow for a sailing vessel to use with eafety, on account of the rapid tide in it. Boca Chica. — This has two dangerous ledges of rocks at its outer entrance, one on each side, the passage between them being bai'ely 1^ cables ynde ; the southern ledge lies nearly 1 cable west from Virago point and only shows, at low-water spring tides. The Trevan rock on the nort.h side of the entrance uncovers at )ialf tide about 2 cables from the shore of Stanley island. Mary island, the northern of the group before mentioned, kept just midway between the summit and north-west extreme of Jorey island, bearing S.W., is an excellent mark for clearing these darigers, recollecting that if brought on with the summit, the vessel will get on the northern ledge, and if opon to the westwa*. J she will be on the opposite one ; when past these rocks keep in mid- channel. A small ledge runs out a sh^^rf distance from the south-east point of Stanley island, having passed which the vessel will be in Darien hcrbour, and may anchor, as convenient, in 6 to 10 fathoms, sand and mud. The Boca Chica is not, however, recommended, unless used at slack water, for during the strength of the tide it runs 6 or 7 knots ; the eddies making the steerage difficult. Boca Grande, — This lies between the rocks outside the Boca Chica and Milne island on the western shore, is 1 mile broad, and continues nearly the same width for 1^ miles between Stanley island and the shore. After passing the Boca Chica steer north-westward, so as to shut in Mary island by Milne island, and do not approach Stanley island within 8 cables, as a dangerous rook, showing only at about three quarters ebb and connected by a ledge with the shore, lies off its north-west point. Milne island just touching the eastern end of the islands connected with Strain island, bearing S. ^ £., is a good mark for running; and if working, when northward of Milne island tack directly Mary island opens of it on the one side, and when Edith island ie shut in on the other. The navigable channel at this point is ^ of a mile wide, and begins to turn to the eastwai-d round the noith end of Stanley, naiTowing to i a mile between Ray and Jannette islands on the north, and a lai'ge flat rock, nearly always uncovered, and a little wooded island about a cable off Stanley island on the south ; following the channel, it bends back to the south-east, and continues of the same breadth between Ellen and Faley islands on the west, and the main land on the east, into Darien harbour. Darien Harbour is a magnificent sheet of water extending 11 or 12 miles in a south-east direction as far as the village of Chupigana. It is formed by the junction of the Tuyra and Savana rivers, and the depth of water in it from Paley island as far as the mouth of the Savana, a distance of 2 miles, is from 10 to 4^ fathoms, beyond which there is not more than 12 to 18 feet at low-water springs. The best place for anchoring is in from 7 to 10 fathoms, off the village of Palma, 1 mile southward of Price point, at about 8 cables from the western shore. The Vaguila rock, showing at about half tide, lies off the mouth of the Savana, East If miles from Palma point, with a good channel between it and Graham point, the west point of enh'ance to the river. The shores of the harbour are almost without exception one continuous line of mangrove, with densely wooded hills from 100 to 800 feet hign a short distance inland. Palma appears to be situated on the best spot, and has an abundance of fresh water. BOUR. TRINIDAD, AND CfflMAN RIVERS, &c. 11 nd, and the The latter to use vrith «r entrance, es wide ; the ily showE. at the entrance land. Mary way between S.W., is an ught on with open to the keep in mid- bh-eaat point rien hcrbour, mud. The sk water, for i making the ;a Chica and es nearly the After passing ind by Milne a dangerous ' a ledge with ig the eastern Hi., is a good a island tack island ie shut lile wide, and naiTowing to u'ge flat rock, >le off Stanley le south-east, slands on the 1 or 12 miles b is formed by of water in it of 2 miles, is I to 18 feet at o 10 fathoms, ,bont 8 cables half tide, lies ;, with a good e to the river, tinuous line of hign a short )t, and has an The River Tui/ra rises in lat. 7" 40', and enters Darieu harbour near the village of Chupigana. Twenty miles from this point, near the junction of the river Ghuqnnaqne, are the rains of the old Spanish fort of Santa Maria, near which were the gold mines worked by the Spaniards in the 17th century. The river is described as being navigable 6 miles beyond the town, ♦» abreast which it was reckoned to be twice as broad as the river Thames is at London. The rise and fall of the tide there was 2^ fathoms." The river Chuqunaque rises in iat. 8° 50', westward of Culedonia bay on tha Atlantic. The SavaiM River rises in lat. 8° 44', and a few miles from its source meets the river Lara, where the bottom is level with the half-tide. From this point the depth increases, 3 &thoms at low water being found 8^ miles to the southward, and from thence to the mouth, a distance of 12 miles, the depth varies from 9 to 12 &thoms over a soft muddy bottom. The navigable entrance is nearly 1 mile wide between Graham point and Haydon bank, and the shores are low mangrove land, skirted with hills from 200 to 800 feet high, within 2 miles of the banks. H.M.S. Virago anchored in 8^ fathoms 1 mile to the north-east of Graham point. It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon in Darien harbour at 4h., and springs are said to rise 24 feet. The tides in the narrows run proportionally strong, and great care should therefore be taken. Brava ami Lorenzo points, forming the north side of San Miguel bay, are edged with reefs and outlying rocks, on which the sea breaks with great violence ; this fiEtct, together with the proximity of the Buey bank, makes this part of the coast dangerous, and it should therefore be avoided, even by small vessels. Farallon Ingles. — This is a small but high island, on the edge of the shoal off the river Buenaventura, at about 5 miles northward of Brava point ; there are 12 and 15 feet water on its western side. At 4 miles northward of it is Gorda point, which is bold and woody with a depth of 4 fathoms close to it. The Pajaros are two small rocky islets lying off the coast, 4 miles northward from Gorda point ; there is a depth of 4 and 5 fathoms off their west sides but only 12 feet between them and the shore. At these islets a shoal com- mences, with 6 fathoms on its outer edge, which fronts the whole shore of the bay of Panama as far westward as Ghame point. RIVER TRINIDAD, 2i miles northward of the northern Pty'aros islet, has a low rocky projection forming its south point of entrance. A S-fathoms channel was found into this river, extending 1^^ miles from the point, beyond which it was not examined. The northern bank of the river is composed of mangroves, which continue along the coast, with the exception of the bluffs of the nvers Chiman and Ghepo, as far as Panama, a distance of nearly 70 miles. Shag rock, a barren islet, frequented by birds, with shoal water round it, lies 2^ miles from this entrance. Mangue and MajagiMg, 7 miles from the entrance of the Trinidad, are high, wooded islets at tide time, but not at low water, being situated on the south-west edge of a large mud flat, which extends from the north bank of the river Trinidad. There are 10 to 12 feet water westward of them. RIVER CHIMAN, 4 miles northward of Mangue and Majaguay, is wide at the mouth, but shoal, being dry at low water, with the exception of some email channels deep enough for cauoes. The entrance is well marked by the islets just mentioned and the wooded bluffs on each side. On the eastern side under a hill, is the small town of Ghiman. ' .Ik I til ■ft 1 ! i i i . !i:V \r 12 wm CHEPO RIVER, PANAMA, &c. Pelado Island. — At about 4 miles W. by S. from Mangue islet, and directly off the month of the river Ghiman, is Pelado, a small flat island, about 60 feet high. It is steep on all sides, and usefol as a mark to vessels bound up the bay for Panama, which should not go eastward of it. The coast between Pelado and Ghepillo islands, the latter distant 81 miles to the north-west, consists of low river land covered with mangrove bushes. In this space are several small streams, the principal of which are the rivers Hondo and Corutu ; but these are shoal at the eutranco. The land north of these rivers is of some elevation ; Column peak and Asses ears, about 12 miles north of Chiman, and Thumb peak, at the west extreme of the range, are conspicuous. Extensive mud banks, dry at low water, extend from 2 to 4 miles off the coast ; outside these the water is shoal for some distance, hence vessels standing towards the main should tack in 9 fathoms. Chepillo island, in lat. 8° 55^', long. 79° 7', lies off the mouth of the river Ghepo, at about 2 miles from the coast. It is 1 mile long by ^ a mile broad, low on the north side, and rises by a gentle ascent towards the south, over which is, or was, a remarkable tree, which forms an excellent mark to vessels bound up the bay. The southern point of the island may be approached as near as a mile, but the other sides are shoal, and a reef runs off its northern point in the direction of the river. GHSPO RIVER extends some distance into the interior, having its rise near the head of the Savana river. The entrance is westward of Chepillo island, through a 10-feet channel, about 8 cables broad ; there is a small hill, with a cliff under it, on the eastern bank, which, if brought to bear N.E. i E. (1847), will lead through the deepest water. At the west bank of this river the mud flat recommences, and continues to Petillo point, immediately northward of Panama. It is shallow some distance out, in front of this flat, hence vessels sh^^uld not approach the coast between Ghepillo island and Panama, nearer than the depth of 6 fathoms. PANAMA is a regular and formerly a well-fortified city, standing on a rocky peninsula. It has a noble appearance from the sea, the churches, towers, and houses, showing above the line of the fortifications, stand out from the dark hills inland with an air of grandeur to which there is no equal on the west coast of South America. It is rendered still more conspicuous by mount Ancon, a beautiful hill, 540 feet high, rising nearly a mile westward of the city, to which it forms a pleasant background ; on each side of Ancon are flat hills, with copses of wood and savanas, grassy slopes and wild thickets, while Boathward of the city the cultivated islets of Flamenco and Perico complete the scene. The site of Panama has once been changed. The old city, built in 1518, which was taken and destroyed by the buccaneers under Morgan in 1678, stood at the mouth of a creek, about 4 miles north-east of the present city. The spot is now deserted, but well marked by a tower, which, together with an arch, two or three piers of a bridge, and some fragments of wall, are the only remains of a once opulent city. The tower, in the afternoon, is still a ;onspi- cuous object from the anchorage. The expectations formed of tli modem city of Panama, as seen from the sea, are by no means realised on landing. The principal streets extend across the peninsula from sea to sea, intersected by the Galle Real or Royal street, which runs east and west, and has a quiet and stately, but comfortless, air. Heavy balconies in the upper stories are but little relieved by the unglazed grated windows, or any vanety in the buildings. * * i Tinoxio J* 3 2i Cbt>co ■tt !>* at 9 8 TA [r-7?«. w>»tfMi»H^ '.T / M 5 Bt A Auxt tU Melones 9 a 7 ^■4 TABOGA ISLE JO .^Sa^ 7.» '■'•laraOnn IS ^ JS a Stalk Aock^^ Ij 'dry »u. /■ if^Spr. / K 7^ aouJft ■'itgfple < If tll iifl 1% 12 Peloi off the high, bay for j The^ to the n In this I Hondo I these 12 mill approach its nortl CH] near tly island,! with aie (18471 Atf Petill(M out, iiP C.e^ rocky |» towers^! the da|^ west doa Ancopi city, i» • hills,i Bontl the s^ Th( which-iir stood |t ThesilM arch, #i remain! cuons (1^ Thee: sea, art '. the peoii which ;« Heavy b grate4w U 'A'^jW^ACk^t^' . J )*^.'{-!>^^ !». t^ CW^^ t « ^VV^wo^i^'o ■■^mtSTmiSii^iSMii^^i^-^'l^m. m WMWIiii ^ PANAMA, &c. 18 The houses, mostly in the old Spanish style, are of stone, the larger having courts or patios ; the public edifices comprise a cathedral, five convents, a nunnery, and a college, but most of these are in ruins. The cathedral is a large, lofty building, on the west side of the Plaza, but the structure is hardly worthy of its situation, the towers alone redeeming it from insignificance, and forming, in the distance, an ornament to the city. The fortifications are well constructed, but like the rest of the city in many parts are in ruins, the north- east bastion having fallen in 1845 ; the south and west ramparts are still in good condition, forming a pleasant promenade. A great want is felt in Panama with regard to drainage. This is caused by neglect ; for the elevation of the peninsula on which the city stands, together with the great rise of the tide, offers considerable advantages for cleansing the city, which duty at present is performed by the heavy rains of the wet season. The gold discoveries of California and British Columbia, by increasing the colonization and developing the great agricultural resources of those countries, have effected a change in the fallen fortunes and grass-grown streets of Panama ; and comfortable inns and large well-stocked stores have been called into existence by the continuous transit of emigrants from Europe and the United States to Sau Francisco and Victoria. The suburb of Santa Ana, situated on the isthmus which connects Panama with the mainland, is olmost as extensive as the city, though not so well built. At its northern extreme is the terminus of the Panama railway to Colon or Aspinwall, on the Atlantic, a distance (by rail) of 47 miles. This railroad was only completed in January 1855, since which time the company has been constantly making improvements, until it is now one of the best appointed lines extant. Some idea of the increasing trade of the isthmus of Panama may be formed from the fact that in the first week of June 1860 no less than 10 steamers arrived and sailed, — 5 from Panama and 5 from Colou — all of them being sea- going vessels, of between 1000 and 2000 tons. These steamers, or others on the same lines, make regular semi-monthly trips direct from the isthmus to upwards of 60 different ports, in no less that. 15 distinct countries. To carry on this trade a large fleet of first-class steamships is constantly employed, and few people, even among those engaged in the trade of the Pacific, have any idea of the amount of trafiic these vessels bring to the isthmus. No less than 88 sea-going steamers, many of them registering firom 2000 to 8000 tons, I either arrive at or depart from the ports of Colon and Panama every month. The merchants of the entire west coast of America, from British Columbia to Ghiloe, receive their European mails and export all their specie via Panama. These facts will show the importance of this narrow neck of land. Every day the transit business increases, and promises soon to restore Panama to her old position, so well described by Dampier, when she was the highway between Spain and her colonies in the Pacific. Panama affords the usual supplies which are to be obtained in tropical regions, but in 1857-8-9 they were generally dear ; provisions of excellent quality may, however, be obtained from the United States by ships requiring them ; and, when time will admit of it, getting such from the States is far preferable to purchasing in the markets of Colon or Panama, which in the above years were generally supplied with articles of an inferior quality ; biscuit especially will not keep in the hot climate of Panama. The United States squadron have all their stores and provisions sent across the isthmus. .^ rtWi.wj'v ^Vt'm^tVjj-*^:.- 14 PANAMA. Water can be obtained at Panama from the tank of the U.S. mail Bteamers ; but it ia cheaper at Taboga, where it may be purchased at two dollars a ton. Coal may be bought here a^ times from the mail companies, but it is generally dear ; the cost of coal imported into Panama by way of Gape Horn being 16 dollars per ton, and by the railroad 16 dollars, (1860.) Consuls of all nations reside at Panama. The home value on most of the products of this country has advanced very much since the completion of the railroad. Large quantities of Peru bark, balsam, cochineal, cocoa, coiTe i, hides, india-rubber, indigo, logwood, oil (whale and cocoa-nut,) sarsaparilla, Manilla, gold, silvei, and hundreds of other com- modities of the Pacific, seek f. market via this great central route of the globe. In 1868, 142 vessels, of 22,084 tons, entered inwards, and 186 vessels, of 94,912 tons, cleared outwards ; the valae of imports being £11,878,424, and of exports £2,468,208. The population of the isthmus in 1868 amounted to 144,108 persons. The population of the city in 1860 was about 10,000. The geographical position of the isthmus of Panama, the absence of high mountains, and the vast extent of forests and other uncultivated parts, tend to produce a hot and rainy climate, which nevertheless, with the exception of a few localities, as Chagres, Colon, and Poiiobello, is healthy and more favour- able to the constitution of Europeans than that of most tropical countries. / The most prevalent disease is intermittent fever, which makes its appearancfl during the change of the season ; remittent fever is less frequent, but generally proves fatal. On board ship, Panama is by far the most healthy place on the coast of Central America. Vessels of war have remained here many months at times, their crews continuing in a healthy state, excepting those men who had the will and opportunity to indulge in the vile spirit ( agmirdiente ) of the country, which is cheap and easily procured. The yellow fever that existed at the Morro of Taboga in the early part of 1859 was confined to that spot, and, with few exceptions, the victims to it were men of drunken habits, and for this reason commanders should avoid giving leave to their crews at Panama. H.M.S. Herald, when employed on the survey of the Bay in 1847-8, never gave leave, and although the men were constantly in the boats the crew were also healthy. The seasons are regularly divided into the wet and dry ; the foi-mer com- mences in the latter end of May and lasts till November. Slight at first, the rain gradually increases, and is fully established in June, when it falls occa- sionally in torrents, accompanied by thunder and lightning ; the air is loaded with moisture, and calms or light variable winds prevail. The temperature varies from 75° to 87° Fahr. ; still the atmosphere is oppressive, until cooled by the heavy rains and thunder storms before-mentioned. About the end of June the rains are suspended for a short time ; and the occurrence of this phenomenon is so regular that it is looked forward to by the inhabitants, who call it the veranito (little summer) de San Juan, probably from its taking place almost simultaneously with the feast of St. John (June 24th.) In December the violent rains cease and the north-west ^viud sets in, producing an imme- diate change, and the climate now displays all its tropical beauties. Sampler's remarks on the climate of Panama are too true to be omitted : — '* There are no woods nor marshes near Panama, but a brave, dry champaign land, not subject to fogs or mists. The wet season begins in the latter end of May, and continues till November. At that time the sea breezes are at S.8.W., and the land winds at North. The rains are not so excessive about % THE PORT, PERICO AND FLAMENCO, &c. IS tail BteAiners ; dollars a ton. it is generally Horn being 3onsals of all idvanced very Peru bark, )od, oil (whale of other com- a of the globe. )6 vessels, of 373,424, and i amounted to t 10,000. isence of high parts, tend to axception of a I more favour- ical countries. / its appearanoA , but generally y place on the many months ,hose men who dientej of the r that existed d to that spot, en habits, and iws at Panama. 1847-8, never the crew were B foi-mer com- [ht at first, the in it falls occa- le air is loaded le temperature 'e, until cooled ut the end of irrence of this habitants, who ts taking place In December sing an imme- lies. be omitted : — dry champaign le latter end of breezes are at jxcessive about Panama itself, as on either side of the bay ; yet in the months of Juno, July, and August, they are severe enough. Gentlemen that come from Peni to Panama, especially in these months, cut their hair close, to preserve them from fevers ; for the place is sickly to them, Ijcauae they come out of a country which never hath any rains, but enjoys a constant serenity ; but I am apt to believe this city is healthy enough to any other people. The Port. — The port of Panama is formed by Petillo point, IJ miles north-eastward of the city, (a black roc? j promontory with two small hills over it, between which is a rivulet admitting boats at high water,) and the point upon which the city stands, the shore between forming a bay nearly } of a mile deep, the head of which is of mud fronted by a sandy beach. A great portion of this bay is dry at low water springs ; at its entrance there is a depth of 8 feet. It is here that most of the minor trade of the gulf is carried on, by means of bongos, large canoes made from trees of such dimensions that some of them formed from a single trunk have measured 12 tons. These canoes, though clumsy in appearance, are well fitted for the navigation of the gulf, and bring most of the tropical productions of the isthmus to Panama. Pejjilo point, the north point of the bay, is surrounded by rocky ledges, which extend out 1^ cables length, and have a depth of 40 feet at their extremity. Buey point, the southern horn of the bay, is the north-eastern point of the long rocky ledges that surround the eastern and southern shores of the peninsula of the city ; it is only visible at low tide. These ledges extend 3^ cables from the north-east bastion, 5 cables from the south-east bastion in an easterly, and 2^ cables in a southerly direction, forming a bay southward of Buey point, in which is easy landing after half-flood, on a sandy beach in front of the Monk's gate, one of the principal entrances to the city. The general landing, however, is round Buey point, at the market place on the northern side of the town. From the commencement of the suburbs on the southern side, another ledge runs ofif for nearly f of a mile, east of which are Los Hermanos, three black rocks visible at first quarter ebb. Detached rocks, with 3 and 7 feet water between ther" , visible only at low water springs, lie off the south-east extreme of the roc' >i, t! e outer one being 8 cables from the reef. These ledges, composed of rock .v^iu sand patches between, although now irksome and often dangerous to boats, afford every facility for erecting substantial piers and improving the port. As yet (1859) there is no attempt at works of this description, but the daily increasing trade must produce these necessary improvements. Guinea point, 2 miles south-westward of Panama, is the northern extreme of a large round hilly projection, which forms the western side of Panama road. Between it and the town are the mouths of the Grande, Aiena, and Falfan, small rivers, with cultivated banks. The water on this side of Panama road is shoal as far as Tortola and Tortolita islands, which lie 2 miles southward of Batele point, the south extreme of the hilly projection above-mentioned. i One mile E. by S. i S. of Batele point is Changarmi island, surrounded by I the Pulperia reefs ; and to the south-west of the point are Bruja and Yenado ' points, rocky and projecting, with the outlying islets of Cocovi and Cocoviceta. Although these dangers are mostly above water, this part of Panama bay should be avoided. Perico and flamenco, with the outlying rock of San Jose, is a group j of islands forming the south side of Panama road. Ilenao and Culebra, the western and southern parts of Perico, are connected with Perico by an isthmns 16 TABOGA ISLAND, Ac. ■I r of beach and rocks ; but at high water these present the appearance of three islands. Perico is the head quarters of the Linited States mail steamers, the bay on its northern side forming a convenient anchorage, while on the isthmns, which is sandy on that side, steamers of 2500 tons have been easily beached. Vessels using this anchorage after passing Flamenco should keep close round the north end of Perico, and anchor when the isthmus opens. Large vessels drawing over 20 feet may coal at Perico by passing west of the group at half- tide, with Ancon hill, (which on that bearing makes like a cone) just open of Denao, N.N.W. ^ pass about a cable's length from Ilenao, and anchor off its north-west end in 24 feet, when Perico opens. In both cases attention must be paid to the time of tide. The passage between Perico and Flamenco is shoal, and should not be used ; that between Flamenco and San Jose is deep, and both islands are steep. Dana'ide Hocks. — These patches of conic \b, lying on the eastern ridge of Panama road, £. by S. 2^ miles from ith-east bastion, have only 15 to 18 feet on them, and 8^ and 4 fatnoms on all sides. They lie awkwardly in the track of vessels standing for the anchorage, keeping their luff with the land breeze. The Hermanos rocks, in line with the hill between the rivers Grande and Falfan, bearing W. by S., lead northward of them; and the south steeple of the cathedral kept half-way between the east and south- east bastions, W.N.W., leads southward of them. This spot is a favourite fishing-place, and vessels should avoid canoes seen in its vicinity, as they are probably fishing on the rocks. Sulphur Rocks. — This dangerous reef, 6 cables long by 8 broad, lying 1 mile north-westward of the Danaide, has a rock awash in its centre, with 6 and 9 feet around it, and outlying patches of 12 and 14 feet. The railroad flagstaff on with the centre of Ancon, bearing W. i^ S., leads northward of the reef in 15 feet, but this passage should not be used at low water springs ; and the Hermanos rocks in line with a round peak over the river Grande, lead southward of the reef in 18 feet. The Knocker and Taboga are two rocks, with only 6 feet water on them. The Knocker, which is, or was, marked by a red buoy, with staff and flag on it, lies nearly 1 mile E. ^ N. from the south-east bastion ; the Taboga Ues a little more than 2 cables length south-westward of the Knocker buoy, with 16 feet water between, and 12 feet in-shore of them, but no stranger should attempt to pass westward of the buoy. TABOQA ISLAND, with the islands of Urava and Taboguilla, form a pleasant group, about 4 miles long by 2 broad, situated 9 miles southward of Panama. Taboga, the largest and westernmost, is 935 feet above the sea, well cultivated, and has a considerable village on its north-east side. North- ward of the village is the morro of Tchuga, a small hill, connected with the main island by a low, sandy isthmus, covered at high water ; this is the head- quarters of the Pacific Mail Company, who have here a steam factory and coal stores, also a giidiron, 800 feet long, on which H.M.S. Magicienne, a vessel of 1255 tons, was repaired in 1858. Vessels visit Taboga from Panama to obtain water and supplies, both of which are more readily obtained than at the city ; water can be procured from the Company's tank. The anchorage off the village is convenient, being about 8 cables from the shore in 10 fathoms, with the peak of Urava on with the high cliff of Taboga, and the church from S.W. i S. to West. Vessels coaling at this island should avoid giving leave to their crews ; those that have not given It) 7> URAVA, AND TABOQUILLA. 17 ice of three earners, the ;he iathmas, ly beached, close round arge vessels •oup at half- just open of ichor off its lention must Flamenco is lose is deep, lastem ridge have only They lie eeping their hill between )f them; and it and south- a favourite as they are broad, lying centre, with The railroad thward of the springs ; and Grande, lead ater on them. ' and flag on Faboga Ues a er buoy, with ranger should guilla, form a 1 southward of bove the sea, side. North- 3cted with the is is the head- ctory and coal enne, a vessel plies, both of procured from it, being about a with the high lels coaling at have not given leave have felt no bad effects after visiting this depot. In 1869 H.M.S. AUrt Buffere>l severely from a fever contracted through the excesses of her men while at the morro. Urava is a small lofty island, separated from Taboga by a narrow and shoal channel ; off its southern extreme is the small islet of Terapa. Tsboguilla, 710 feet high, is well cultivated, with some islets off its south- west extreme, and forms the north-east island of the group, with a wide and deep channel between it and Urava, in the centre of which is a sunken rock just awash at low water ; the sea seldom breaks over it at high water and it must be carefully avoided by closing either island, both being steep-to, or vessels may pass south of it by keeping the isthmus of the morro open, bearing N.W. by W. i W. Farallo' a small islet, also lies in this channel, but it is steep-to with 11 fathoms between it and Taboguilla. Tidea. — K is high water on the days of full and change, in Panama road at 8h. 2dm., springs rise from 15 to 22 feet, and neaps from 10 to 16 feet. The ebb sets south from 1 to 1^ miles an hour, and is stronger than the flood, which runs to the north-west. The long swell which occasionally sets into the road always ceases with the flowing tide. It has been remarked by the officers of the U.S. Pacific mail steamers that there is more rise in the small bay north of the town, and also in their own anchorage off Perico, than in the more open parts of the road. Directions. — Sailing vessels bound to Panama should endeavour to get within 8 or 4 miles of Chepillo island, especially between December and June, and so have all the advantages of the prevailing northerly wind. From this position Ancon hill will be seen, and should be kept a little on the port bow, as the wind hauls to the westward on approaching Panama. Vessels drawing over 18 feet should pass south of the Danaide rocks, by keeping San Jose rock* open of the west point of Taboga island, bearing S.S.W. i W., until the cathedral towers are open eastward of Ancon. Having passed the Danaide rocks the ship is fairly in the road and may anchor according to her draught ; — if no more than 18 feet draught she may have Tortola island just shut in by Ilenao, bearing S.S.W. i W., and San Jose rock open east of Taboguilla island. Vessels drawing 24 feet may anchor north of Perico, with the peak of Urava island on with the east point of Flamenco, bearing South, taking care not to open Changarmi northward of Perico. If it is necessary to work up the road to an in-shore berth, tack on the western side just before Peiico and Flamenco touch ; and in standing to the eastward do not open San Jose of Taboga island. Vessels drawing 14 feet can pass north of the Danaide and south of the Snlphur rocks, with the Hermanos rocks on with the right side of the peak, between the rivers Grande and Falian ; then San Jose rock on with the peak of Taboguilla bearing S. i £. leads between the Sulphur and Enoc>er rockc) ; and they may anchor north of the Knocker buoy in 16 feet, keeping it between [ Perico and Flamenca, vnth Gabilan, a small rocky peninsula west of the town, ; just shut in by the south-east bastion. During neap tides they may anchor BtiU further to the N.W. • On the 25th August 1868, a light was exhibited for the first time on San Jos6 rook. It ia only lighted when the ateamera from San Franciaco are expected, and it ia visible at 7 or 8 miles. r I' 18 CHAME AND PARITA BAYS, &o. t-:^ Panama road, although shoal, may be considered secure ; the ground being muddy holds well. A resident in Panama for five years, stated, that during that time there was no known case of a vessel being driven from her anchor ; and with good ground tackle and common precaution a vessel might lie there all the year round with one anchor down. Attention to the tides and soundings of the roadstead will enable a vessel to lie close in at times for the discharge of cargo. Coast SouUlward of Panama. — The coast bouthward of Panama be- tween Bruja point and Chame point, a distance of 16 miles, forms a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets ; hence vessels bound to Panama should keep near the island of Taboga, and not approach this shore within the depth of 5 fathoms. Vique cove, in which is a small village, is 5 miles west- ward from Bruja point. About 1 mile north-eastward of Vique is a lofty treble-peaked hill, called Cerro de Cabra, a conspicuous object to vessels bound to Panama, and frequently mistaken for Taboga by those coming from eastward. Vacamonte point, the western side of Vique cove, is the only break in the mud flat which fronts this land, and extends out nearly 2 miles from shore. CHAME BAY, at the head of which is a small river of the same name, is nearly filled up by large banks, the largest of which, the Cabra spit, lies in the middle, and has on it an islet named Tabor. Chame point, the southern horn of this bay, is a singular, low, woody promontory jutting into the sea, 54^ roi'es long by ^ a mile broad. Between it and Cabra spit is a convenient harbour, 2 miles in length by about J of a mile wide, with from 8 to 3 fathoms water in it, and from 1(5 to 18 feet close to the beach of Chame point. • To the north-west of the river is a high range called Sierra Capero, and to the south- ward are the Cerro Chame, a group of wooded hills. Melones Island is a small rocky islet 2^ miles north-westward from Taboga, having at about i a mile northward of it, a rock of the same name above water. The island is steep, but vessels should te careful not to pass westward of it. Chame Island, with the Perique rock, are of a similar character to Melones, and situated about the same distance southward of Taboga. Valladolid is a large rock, nearly 2 miles south-westward of Chame island, having 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. Otoque and Bona Islands, with Estiva island and the Redondo rock lying 6 miles south-eastward from Chame point, form a group similar to but somewhat smaller than Taboga and Taboguilla. A village, named Goleta, is in the bay on the western side of Otoque, Anchorage, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, may be found in any part of this group, and all dangers are above water. These islands being high and peaked, form good land-marks to vessels on this side of the gulf of Panama. PARITA BAY. — From Chame point the coast nins south-westward 45 miles to Parita bay, a.id consists throughout of a beach named Playa Grande, which is backed by a low wooded bank. There is a depth of 4 and 6 fathoms at about 2 miles fiom this beach, except S.S.E. ^ E. of the Cerro Chame, where there arc only 4 fathoms at nearly 7 miles from the land, the bank extending from that to Chame point. To avoid this, voesels from Parita baj should shape a course to pass about 2 miles southward of Bona until Taboguilla is nearly touching Otoque, bearing N. by E. J E., wJien they may Bt««r up the bay, inirid« but nearer to the islands. CAPE MALA AND PEARL ISLANDS. 19 jund being hat daring er anchor ; it lie there tides and aes for the 'anama be- ahoal bay, to Panama within the miles west- is a lofty to vessels oming from is the only rly 2 miles same name, spit, lies in the southern ito the sea, a convenient to 8 fathoms )int. • To the to the south- istward from e same name not to pass character to 3ga. )hame island, iledondo rock imilar to but med Goleta, I from 10 to ers are above ,rks to vessels luth-westward named Playa pth of 4 and of the Cerro the land, the 1h from Parita )f Bona until lien they may 1 T}>e mud-flats are found again on the western side of Parita bay, the coast being a lo\»- mangrove shore, intersected by the mouths of no less than five small rivers ; the land to the westward is also low with several hummocks. At Liso point on the south side of the bay the hard bank with sandy beach in front again commences and continues as far as cape Mala, a distance of 88 miles, the coast trending to the south-east. Parita bay is about 18 miles long north and south, and 10 miles deep, and has soundings of 18 fathoms at 10 miles from the shore, thence gradually decreasing to the land. It is exposed to all winds blowing from eastward. Iguana Island. — At about 80 miles south-eastward of Liso point, and 9 miles northward of cape Mala, Iguana island, which is a little higher than the adjacent coast, forms a conspicuous object. A ledge extends about 8 cables from its southern and also from its eastern point, and a reef is said to stretch to the N.N.E. from its north point, but otherwise the island is Bteep-to with 15 fathoms in the channel betwepi it and the main. It is high water, fall and change, at Iguana island at 4h. ; the rise and fall being 15 feet. The flood sets northward, and the ebb south-eastward, the latter being considerably the stronger, especially between December and June. CAPE MALA, which forms the western point of entrance to the gulf of Panama, is a low but clifly point with outlying rocky ledges, having deep water close to them. The land from the north-west slopes gradually to the sea at this point from a considerable distance, making the exact cape diflicult to distinguish, unless the breakers are seen. On opening the gulf round this cape, a strong southerly set is generally esperienced, especially in the dry season. PEARL ISLANDS. — These form an archipelago on the eastern side of Panam>' bay, consisting of sixteen islands and several rocks. Rey is the largest, San Jos' , Gonzales, Casaya, Saboga, and Pacheca are of secondary, and the rest of minor importance. There are from 80 to 40 fishing villages scattered about t iese islands, the inhabitants of which are chiefly engaged in the pearl fishery The islands are low and wooded, the soU fertile, but not much culti- vated, and the numerous coii^t-nut groves, and bright sandy beaches, intersected by small rocky Ir' itfs crowned with trees, give them a pleasant appearance ; most of them oelong to merchants at Panama, who employ negroes to plant and caltivate them. Pacheca, Saboga, and Contradora ishauh, with the islets of Bartholomew and Chipre, form the northern part of the archipelago, and between them is a good and capacious harbour, well suited as a depot for steamers. Saboga, the largest island, on the east side of which is a considerable village, has a reef extending 1^ miles in a northerly direction ; Contradora has 5 fathoms close to its north-west shore, which is low and well adapted for wharves. This harbour, which is about 2 miles long by nearly 1 mile broad, with an average depth of 9 fathoms, has Saboga on its weaiern side, Contradora on its So^'h east, and Pacheca and Bartholomew on its north side ; it has three entran^^es, oach possessing a 5-fathom channel, which may be used according to wind and tide. The Pacheca channel lies southward of Pacheca, between it and the reef extending from Saboga ; the Contradora channel is round the northern end of Contradora island ; and the Saboga channel is between that island and Contradora. It is high water, full and change, at Saboga inland at 4h,, and springs rise 14 feet. 10 KEY, CHAPERA, &c. 'I (f ■ f Vessels usiog the Pacheca channel should pass within i a mile of the islet west of Pacheca, and stand southward until the centre of Bartholomew island bears E. by S. ^ S. ; then keep it on this bearing until the northern islets off Saboga open westward of Saboga, or the west end of Gontradora bears S. by E. i E., when they should haul southward for the anchorage. Entering by the Gontradora channel, they should pass i a mile eastward of Bartholomew island and not stand to the westward before the nearest islets north of Saboga open northward of Saboga ; these islets kept just open bearing W. by S. lead, through. Gare must be taken not to open them too much, as there is a 2-fathom patch off the north-east end of Gontradora. Vessels from eastward using the Saboga channel should steer in with the outer islet on the reef extending from the south end of Saboga bearing W. ^ S., as this will lead clear of the Sunk rock, a patch lying nearly 1 mile off the south side of Gontradora ; and, when Pacheca is shut in by Saboga, bearing N. J W., they should steer northward, and run through the channel which is steep OP both sides. There is a channel northward of the Sunk rock, but that south of it is wider and better. Approaching the Saboga channel from westward, sail close to the islet of Santa Gatalina, which lies about 1^ miles south of Ghipre, to avoid the shoal extending from the latter island. From Gatalina steer N.E. for the north end of Ghapera, the island next south of Gontradora, until Pacheca touchos Gontradora, bearing N. by W. ; then steer N.N.W. i W. for a small hill on Saboga, taking care not to shut in Pacheca with Saboga until the north point of Ghipre bears southward of West, and that Pacheca is shut in before the south point of Saboga bears West, then stand for mid-channel as before. Cluipera and Pajaros, the islands immediately southward of those just mentioned, are separated by a 4 -fathom channel in which the gi'ound is foul and consequently not safe to navigate. A »hoal with 13 feet water on it lies 1 mile eastward of Pajaros, and southward of that island the soundings are rocky and irregular. No vessel should attempt the passage south of Ghapera and Pajaros islands — between them and Rey island. Casaya, Bayoneta and Viveros, are the largest among the numerous islands on the reef extending from the north-west point of Key island ; the passages between them all are foul, with occasional strong tides. At nearly 4 miles eastward of the north point of Gasaya is a bank 1^ miles long by ^ of a mile wide, having only 9 feet water on its shoalest part ; and at about 2 miles from the north-east point of Viveros are the Caracoles and Gangrejo islets, with foul ground around them. The whole of these islands should be avoided by vessels bound up the bay, by approaching their western side not nearer than just to open San Jose island eastward of Pedro Gonzales island, bearing S. by E. ; while on their eastern side, they should not open San Pablo, a small islet off the north-east point of Rey island. Rey, the principal of the Pearl islands, is about 15 miles long, in a north and south direction, by 7 broad ; it has several peaks on it, the highest of w)iich is about COO feet above the sea. Numerous islets, having deep water between them, lie 3 miles off its western shore, and these should not be approached by strangers within the depth of 10 fathoms. Cocos point, its southern extreme, is a remarkable promontory, 4 miles long by about one wide, the extreme cliff of which was crowned in 1859 by an umbrella-shaped tree. On the east side of this promontory is the bay of St. Elmo, where is convenient PEDRO GONZALES. 21 anchorage, and a good stream of water at Lemon point at its head ; the sound- ings in this hay are 10 to 6 fathoms, the latter being at a short distance from theshore. The eastern shore of Rey has also islands off it, which may be approached to i a mile, with the exception of that named Ganas. This is an island about 6 miles northward from St. Elmo bay, the larger of two islands separated from the shore by a narrow channel ; it has off it a sunken rock at nearly a mile distance, and ^ of a mile outside this is a patch of 3 fathoms ; — to avoid these sunken dangers do not open Monge islet, eastward of St. Elmo, until Pablo islet opens eastward of Muerta, a small barren islet lying about IJ miles north- eastward of Ganas. San Miguel, the principal town of the Pearl islands, is on the north side of Rey. It is of some size, and has a conspicuous church, but is badly situated, lauding being difficult at low water. Two hills — the Gerro Gongo and Gerro Vali — rise southward of it, the former being 481 feet high. Vessels having to lie off the town should run in between Garacoles and Gangrejo, and anchor in about 6 or 7 fathoms, when the church is shut in or behind Afuera, an islet lying off the town, bearing S.E. i y S. The bottom in this anchorage is irregular and rocks are numerous, hence more than oi-dinary care is required. A small island, named Oalera lies 7^ miles E ', S. from Gocos point, the southern extremity of Re tB position being lat. 8° 11^', long. 78° 46J'. Its southern side, consists 'iff sloping down to a beach on the north, and to the southward a reef runs > foi nearlv 1 mile. This island is jenerally the first land made by vessels bound to Ph ua from sonth-east\v,ird ; it should not be approached within the depth of mthoms, but there is a good passage between it and Gocos point, by using which to voHsel wil be clear of the San Jose bank. A shoal named San Jose lies about 9 miles in an E.S.E. direction from Galera island, and immediately faces the entrance to San Ivj.gnoi bay, its position being 14 to 17 miles from Garachine point, the south point of the bay, between the bearings from it of W. by S. and A''. ^ N. It consists of a bank of 7 to 8 fathoms, which extends N.W, i N. ami S.E. J S. 8 miles, and is in no pai't more than ^ of a mile broad. Glose to it all round is a depth of 12 to 18 fathoms, which in a westerly direction deepens to fathoms at less than a mile. In the centre of this bank is the Tr^l' ock, having only 2 feet water over it at low tide ; it bears W. J S. J aics from Garachine point, and E.S.E. 9 miles from Galera island. The shoal upon which this rock stands is 1 mile long by about $ of a mile broad ; the depth close to the rock is 8i to 6 fathoms, and there are 7 and 8 fathoms on its outer edge — V6P J 8 should not therefore approach it within the depth of 10 fathoms. The ro^.i. may be easily avoided, either by keeping on the main shore until Garachine point bears southward of East, or by passing about 2 miles from Galera island, taking care at the same time not to run on the shoal patch and rocks off the southern side of the latter. Pedro Ootixales is separated from the islets off the west side of Rey by a brohi deep channel. It is about 12 miles in circumference, and has on its northern side two bays protected from the north by the islands of Senora and Senorita. These bays called Perry and Magicienne, are divided by the little pen- insula ofTrapiche, offthe east point ofwhich is a rocky lodge, terminating in a shoal with 14 feet water, at a distance of nearly 8 cables from the point; inside Ibis, to the southward, there is a small anchorage in 4^ fathoms. 22 SAN JOSE. A large stream of water runs into the sea on the western side of Magicienne bay. This bay, however, is small and shoal, without the advantages of Perry bay, which is 1 mile wide, and runs back for the same distance. Senora and Senorita, including the shoal off their eastern side, are about 1 mile long, and lie nearly the same distance northward of Trapiche, with a 7-fathom channel between, steep on both sides. It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon, in Perry bay at 8h. 50m. ; and the rise is 16 feet. The tide stream is not felt in the anchorage, but there is a considerable set off the island, the flood running to the northward, the ebb to the southward, the latter being generally stronger. Vessels may pass on either side of Senora and Senorita ; if on the east side, avoid the shoal extending from them by keeping the eastern point of Gonzales island, a rocky peninsula, open of the point next north of it, bearing S.S.E., until the north end of Senora is shut in by Senorita, bearing N. W. by W. ^ W. Going into Periy bay, a good look-out must be kept for the shoal running off E.S.E from Trapiche island. At nearly IJ miles S.S.W. i W. from the rock off the south end of Pedro Gonzales, there is a dangerous rock, awash or nearly so at low tide, named Passage rock, from the circumstance that it is in almost mid-channel between Pedro Gonzales and San Jose. It has soundings of 12 and 9 fathoms close to it, a£d 7 to 5 fathoms at a short distance northward of it. The mark to Iflad rather more than ^ a mile southwai-d of it is, — the peak next south of the highest on Key island, just open southward of Coco islet, one of the outlying islets off the west side of Bey, bearing E. by N. ^ N., vessels should keep between the San Jose shore and this mark. San Jose, 4 miles South of Gonzales, is about 6| miles long by 8 broad, and its summit consists of table land. At nearly 2 miles south-eastward from Iguana point, its northern extreme, is a large waterfall, flowing into the sea, and forming an excellent watering place. At the south-east side of the island there is a bay, in which are soundings of 8 to 6 fathoms, but, as the swell sets in there with great violence, it is not convenient for shipping. Off the south- em point of the island are a number of high rocks of singular and fantastic shape ; this part of the island should be avoided. The western shore is bold and cliffy, with a small bay near the centre. The navigation of the approaches to the gulf of Panama, situated as they are in the region of the doldrums, with the land of Central America considerably affecting the northern trade, b omes to a vessel unaided by steam one of the most tedious, uncertain, and vexatious undertakings known to the sailor. Steam power will consideral'^- simplify these difficulties, but the experiences of a sailing vessel may matci ,ally assist the navigation of the auxiliary screw steamer in this portion of tho Pacific. WINDS. — Between capo Corrientes and Panama, the prevalent winds are from northward and westward, with frequent squalls and wet weather from the south-west between the months of June and December. In the gulf of Panama the winds are regulated by the seasons ; the prevalent wind, however, is from northward. In the fine season, commencing in December, these winds are regular and constant, bringing fine dry weather. Southward of the gulf they blow much harder, and off the coast of Veragua a double reefed topsail breeze in January and February is not uncommon. In CURRENIS AND PASSAGES IN THE GULF OF PANAMA. 28 April and May the northerly wirds are less regular, and have more westing in them, with calms, light sea, and land breezes, with occasional squalls from the south-westward. In June the rainy season sets in, and the southerly winds become stronger. Still the old north-west wind is mostly found after noon, and vessels sailing from Panama at all seasons will generally have a fair wind until south of cape Mala. Between the Galupagos islands and the coast, westward of the meridian of 80°, and southward of the parallel of 5° N., the winds are between South and West all the year round, and except between the months of February and June they are of sufficient strength and duratr'u to make the navigation easy ; but northward of lat. 5°, between 80° and 110° W., is a region of calm and doldrums, accompanied by rains and squalls of a most vexatious description. The weather met with can hardly be better illustrated than by the facts that in May 1848 H.M.S. Herald, in her passage towards the Sandwich islands, although towed for 6 days as far west as 89° 20', still took 40 days from Panama to 110° W., owing to keeping between the parallels of 8° and 10° N., and in March of the following year, in the meridian of 87°, and the lat. of 8° N., only made 80 miles in 9 days. CURRENTS. — The Gulf of Panama is also subject to varying currents, partly caused by the peculiar formation of the land, and apparently influenced in turns by the Peruvian or Mexican streams, according as the relative strength of each predominates. Thus Malpelo island is surrounded by a strong current, having much the appearance of breakers. Here Colnett found the current setting strongly into the gulf N.E. by E. at the rate of 2^ miles an hour, while other na\'igators describe it as running violently in the opposite direction. That these varyin^^ statements should be equally correct is not at all incompatible, considering the position of the island amidst conflicting winds. This uncertainty is another embarrassment to the navigation between Panama and the Galapagos. A steady current, however, has generally been found to set northward after passing cape San Lorenzo, extending off shore for about 60 miles. This stream runs along the coast of the continent, round Panama bay. and then sets with considerable force, especially in the dry season, south- ward down the western side of the bay. After passing cape Mala it meets the Mexican current from the W.N.W. and thus causes the numerous ripplings and short uneasy sea so often met with at the entrance of the gulf. This troubled water will be found more or less to the southward, according to the strength of the contending streams. PASSAGES. — From the foregoing it will be seen that the passage from southward into the gulf of Panama is easily made during the greater part of the year, by keeping about CO miles from the coast north of Guayaquil, and after crossing the Line shaping a course for Galera island, at the same time taking care, especially iu Ihi; dry season, to stand inshore with the first northerly winds. By so doing vessels will most probably have the cuiTent in their favour along the coast ; whereas by keeping in the centre or on the west- em side of the gulf, a strong southerly set will be experienced. After making Galera and clearing the San Josh bank, the navigation between the Pearl islands and the main is clear and easy, with the advantage of being able to anchor, should the wind fail and the tide be against the vessel. As a rule, this passage should be taken, but with a strong southerly wind, the navigator is tempted to run up the bay, in which case he should keep towards the western shore of the Pearl islands, where anchorage and less current 24 PASSAGES IN THE GULF OP PANAMA. will be found should the wind fiiil, an event always to be expected in these regions. Vessels bound to Panauia from northward should make the island of Hioaron, which lies about 60 miles westward of Mariato point, and from this endeavour to keep under the land as far as cape Mala. If unable to do this, they should push across for the opposite coast of the continent, when the current will be found in their favour. On getting eastward of cape Mala the safest plan is to Bhape a course for Galera island and to use the eastern passage. At the same time, if tempted up the gulf by a fair wind, vessels should endeavour to get on the western .coast of the Pearl islands, which have the advantages already explained. The great difficulty, however, is the passage out of, or rather, from Panama bay. Cizarro, the first man who attempted this, in November 1525, after beating about for 70 days was forced to return to the river Ghiman, on the eastern side of the bay. The best plan for all sailing vessels, whether bound north or south from Panama, is to push to the southward and gain the S.E. trade ; by so doing they will not only avoid the doldrums and vexatious winds before described, but will have the additional advantage of salubrious weather, with the sea at a temperatni'e of 75° instead of 88° Fahrenheit. The passage northward has been made by keeping close in-shore after passing cape Mala, and navigating by the sea and land breezes ; but this should only be attempted by vessels that are well found and manned, unless they are bound to the ports of Central America, when it is their only route. The following directions, the best for sailing vessels, are chiefly by Ldent. Maury, of the U.S. Navy. From the bay of Panama a vessel should make the best of her way south until she gets between lat. 6° N. and the equator ; on this course let her endeavour, if possible, to keep near the meridian of 80° W. From this make a S.W. course if the winds will allow. Should the wind be S.W. stand to the southward, but if S.S.W. stand to the West, if a good working breeze ; but if it be light and baffling, with rain, the vessel may know that she is in the dol- drums, the quickest way to avoid which is by getting to the southward. From lat. 2° N., between June and January, vessels may stand ol >om the coast to the westward, and pass northward of the Galapagos islands, taking care to keep southward of 5° N. As for as 95° they will have South and S.S.W. winds ; but after that meridian the wind will haul round to the south- ward, and vessels bound to the South Pacific may consider themselves fairly in the trade. Vessels bound northward, after passing the meridian of 100°, may edge away for the Glipperton rock ; after passing which they may push to the norUiward for the northern trade. Between Febmary and June it is better to cross the Line before pushing to the westward. This will generally take a week, which outlay of time, how- ever, is far preferable to encountering the vexatious weather met in that season north of the Galapagos. In this route it must be remembered that southward of lat. 1° N. the wind hauls to the eastward as the vessel leaves the coast, and in the meridian of 88° it is frequently found eastward of South ; but at the same time, vessels in stanu^'ug ofif before crossing the equator, must take care to avoid being driven to the northward of that latitude. In fact, there are few passages in which no much depends on the skill and experience of the pilot as m leaving the gulf of Panama. Vessels bound to the northward in the above season should keep south of I u ■ FRAILES, &c. 26 d in these >f Hicaron, endeavour hey should ent will be t plan is to it the same deavour to )m Panama L625, after lan, on the thor bound gain the i vexatious salubrious iheit. The asaing cape lid only be ' are bound by Lieut. way south iirse let her I this make itand to the eze ; but if in the dol- 'ard. Oh >om the nds, taking South ana ) the south- elves fairly m of 100°, lay push to pushing to time, how- that season b southward oast, and in it the same Etke care to ere are few the pilot as ip south of the Line until westward of 105°, when a course may be shaped for 10° N. and 120° W., in which track they will probably find the northern trade. The above difficulties will be easily avoided by auxiliary screw steamers, which vessels may at once proceed to the starting points above mentioned. The best plan will be to steam for the meridian of 85° W. on the equator, from which position a course may be shaped, according to their destination, and to the season of the year. From that point their sails will be found to be as powerful as their engines. The following facts will show the singular advantage of even small steam power in these regions: — There was in 1859, an indifferent, old, screw steamer, the Columbus, belonging to the Panama Railway Company, that had been running with great regularity for upwards of a year between Panama and San Jose de Guatemala, a distance of about 1020 miles, calling at Punta Arenas, Realejo, La Union, and Acajutla, both going and returning, — at each place discharging and receiving cargo and mails, — and sailing from Panama on the 17th of every month, and returning to that port on the 6th of the following ; thus making the round in 19 days. It is estimated that it would take 2 months for a sharp sailing vessel under favourable circumstances to perform the same work. CAPE MALA TO CAPE CORRIENTES. The coast from cape Mala trends sharply westward, and continues low bo fiur as Guanico point, a distance of 22 nules. From this point it gradually rises for 7 miles to the Morro Puercos, a lofty headland, which forms the commencement of a range of high coast land. North-eastward of Guanico point is an open bay, into which two small rivers, the Tomosi and Juera, empty themselves.* From Puercos point the coast trends 27 miles to Maraito point, a bold headland at the termination of the high land of which Morro Puercos is the commencement ; this point is a good landfall for vessels bound to Panama from westward, as by keeping under the land eastward of it they will avoid the southerly current setting from the gulf. Frailes. — These are two low barren islets situated 11 miles south-westward from cape Mala, and about 18 miles north-eastward from Puercos point. They are distant from each other 2 miles in a N.N.W. i W. and S.S.E. ^ E. d'rection, and are clear of outlying dangers, with the exception that a reef extends out about a cable's length from the north-west point of the southern islet. The depth within | a mile of them is 20 to 80 fathoms. At 18 miles westward from cape Mala is a projecting point named Baia, off which is an islet and reef of rocks, known as the Beuado. At about midway between the rivers Juera and Tomosi, is a patch of rooks at a short distance from the shore. A reef, 8 fathoms under water, lies about 8 miles north- eastward from Puercos point, and another, above water, is distant 4 miles westward from the point ; the latter is at about a mile from shore. Hence to * In this bay vessels occasionally anchor, with the wind from the land, near the islet Benado, and obtain fresh water from the river Juera. As the >jiohorage ia exposed to ■oatlisrly winds, it can be considered only a temporary stopping place 2e MONTIJO BAY, AND BAHIA HONDA. Mariato point, the soandings are very deep, as at 8 miles from the shore the bottom is not reached with a line of 100 fathoms. From Mariato point the coast trends 5 miles north-westward to Naranjas island, a rocky hat wooded islet lying about i a mile off a bluff; it is steep, with 10 and 20 fathoms at a short distance from it. Northward of this islet the low land again commences, and continues into the great bay of Montijo. MONTIJO BAY.— From point Mariato the coast trends N.N.W. 20 miles to the eastern entrance of a large bay, named Montijo. This bay extends northward about 14 miles, with an average breadth of 9 miles, and is fronted by two islands, Cebaco and Gobemador of which the former is the larger and southernmost. Within the bay, near its head, is an island named Leones, having on each side of it a river accessible only by boats. The bay is of little value to shipping, the soundings in it being extremely irregular, and over the greater part of its surface only 10 to 12 feet ; hence it is but seldom visited. Cebaco is an island of irregular shape, 18 miles long in a N.E. by £. | E. and S.W. by W. i W. direction, and 8 miles wide at its eastern end, its broadest part. Some detached rocks lie off its western end ; and, a sunken rock lies about a mile from its eastern point, leaving no safe channel between. When entering the bay by this, the east channel, it is necessary on account of this sunken rock to keep nearer to the main than the island, — in steering thus the depth will be 12 to 10 fathoms ; continue now in a north-westerly direction and pass St Juan rock, distant about 1^^ miles from the land, on its west side ; the depth will now have decreased to 4 fathoms ; hence to the east side of Leones island the passage is westward of several rocks lying off the shore, in soundings of 6, 7, and 9 fathoms. Gobemador island, between the west end of Cebaco and the main, is about 1} miles in extent, and divides the western entrance into Montijo bay into two channels, either of which can be taken according to circumstances, although the northernmost is the better, being wider and less exposed to the strong outward current from the bay. The depth in the southern channel is 9 to 7 fathoms, and in the northern 16 to 6 fathoms. When the bay is faiily entered, vessels of light draught may anchor on its west side, and find good shelter from almost all winds. When tacking in Montijo bay the utmost caution is necessary on account of the shoal of 12 feet which extends the whole length of the bay and connects the northern side of Cebaco island with Leones island. This shoal occupies a large part of the surface of the bay, and leaves but a narrow channel on each side of it. BAHIA HONDA. — From Montijo bay to the entrance of Bahia Honda the distance is 20 miles in a W. by N. i N. direction, and the shore between is rugged with several islets and rocks off it. At the distance of 2 miles from the land the soundings are 27 to 86 fathoms, the latter being in the vicinity of Bahia Honda. In the event of running from one bay to the other, the coast should have a berth of not less than 8 miles. The bay consists of an inlet nearly 8 miles in extent in a N.E. direction, and about 2 miles broad, in which are soundings of 20 to 10 and 4 fathoms. It affords shelter from all winds, and a berth may be selected according to circumstances in almost any part of it. The head of the bay, north-east from Talon island (subsequently mentioned) is shallow, but may be safely approached by the lead. When running in it is only necessary to keep in mid-channel. The entrance does not stand out with sufficient prominence to be distinguished BAHIA HONDA. 27 lie shore the from a great distance, hut a near approach reveals it with distinctness. The north point, Guarida, ia bold, with a depth of 14 to 10 fathoms close to the rocks at its base. The sonth point, cape Jabali, has two islets off it, named Sentinela and Cono, of which the former is the larger and northernmost ; these islands are connected by a sunken reef, and there is a narrow passage between them and the shore cnly suitable for boats.* Within the bay and immediately facing the entrance is Talon island, having two small islets close to its west side, of which the larger and northernmost is named Pueril ; the island close to its south end is named Espuela. Talon island is about 120 feet high, and divides Bahia Honda into two parts, known as Chinche and Legamo bays ; Ghinche bay is west of the island. Only vessels of very light draught can pass round the north end of Talon island. In 1854, the island was inhabited by some Indian families, from whom were procured eggs, fowl, and various kinds of fruits, and as the bay affords abundance of excellent fish, such could also without doubt have been obtained from them. Fresh water can be procured here in great abundance and especially from a stream named Cobre, which falls into the south-east part of the harbour, and can be ascended some distance in a canoe. There is a watering place on the south side of the bay, S.S.E. from Talon island, which is even more convenient than the stream just mentioned, because a boat may in calm weather anchor alongside it and obtain supplies by means of a long hose. Very good wa.ter may also be procured from a cascade outside the harbour, on the north shore, at about 1^ miles from point Guarida ; the water falls upon a rock, which affords considerable facilities for fixing a hose. It has been mentioned that anchorage can be obtained in almost any part of Bahia Honda, but that which is perhaps the most convenient for large vessels is westward of Talon island, in Chinche bay. Here the French surveying vessel Obligado anchored (in 1854,) in 14 fathoms, mud, with point Guarida bearing S. 40° W. ; Sentinela islet S. 14° W. ; east point of Espuela islet S. 83° E. ; east point of Sapo islet N. 80° E. ; and the west point of Chinche islet N. 15'' W. The only known dangers in the vicinity of this anchorage are a sunken rock of 8 feet at 1^ cables length northward of point Guarida, and a reef at about the same distance north-westward from Pueril island. fNiiWhen the Obligado was at Bahia Honda the tidal observations showed the flood and ebb to have nearly equal strength, of the two the ebb preponderating. High water at full and change 8h. 80m., and the sea rose 11} feet. Making Bahia Honda. — Coiba island and the little island Aiiiera (between Coiba and the main) immediately face Bahia Honda, hence these islands will be first seen from whatever quarter the bay is made. At about 2 miles from the harbour are two islands named Medidor and Pacora,t situated off the north shore, of which the former is the larger, of moderate height and nearer the land ; these islands must be left to northward when running for the bay. The entrance is by no means diflScult, but it is recommended to avoid the southern headland because of the reefs surrounding Sentinela and Cono islands. * The French chart No. 1703 shows a detached sunken reef at about one-sixth of a mile north-eastward of Sentinela island. Although this reef does not appear in the English (Admiralty) chart No. WiV, it may possibly exist, and should therefore be carefully guarded against. + Named Trucha in Sir Edward Belcher's R.N. chart, No. 1929 PUEBLO NUEVO. i: i^i Leaving Bahia Honda. — The most convenient time for leaving Bahia Honda ifl daring the morning, because then advantage can be taken of the East and N.E. winds. If these winds are weak it may be necessary to haul the vessel out by the boats. Monita and Bosario Bays. — The coast from Bahia Honda northward a distance of 10 miles, is very irregular and forms several bays, of which those named Monita, Bosario and Pajaro are the principal. The first mentioned bay is immediately northward of point Yentana, 2 miles from Medidor island ; it has an islet covered with trees in its northern part close to the shore, and afifoids good anchorage and shelter only with winds from the land, being exposed to all others, North of Monita bay is Bosario bay, which will be easily recognised by an islet near its middle, at about a mile from the shore, named Muela k Gaballo ; thit bay is bounded on the north by point Muerto and on the south by point Gorda, between which is a projecting point dividing the bay into two parts, the southern of which takes the name of Pivay, — in each of these little bays is a river. As Bosario bay is exposed to westward, the anchorage is safe only with winds from the land. Pajaro bay immediately northward of that of Bosario, has a depth of 16^ fathoms, and is also unsafe with winds from westward. All this coast is free from danger at a moderate distance off. The shore from Pajaro bay northward for a distance of 9 miles is fronted by a bank of 6 to 18 feet which extends out about 2 miles. The edge of this bank being very steep renders the utmost oantion necessary in approaching ; at night a depth of 22 to 16 fathoms will be quite near enough ; — usually, the sea breaks heavily upon it. At the south end of this bank is the river Lavenia, and at the north end the river Tavasera ; the latter is not barred. PUEBLO NUEVO. — At about 8^ miles northv^ard of the river Tavasera is point Gayado, the south side of entrance to the river of Pueblo Nuevo. The entrance to this river may be at once recognised by the peculiar formation of the hills between it and Tavasera river, which are 800 to 400 feet high, and appear as two islets from a distance. A hill 550 feet high, and having the form of a sugar-loaf, situated close to the shore on the north side of the river, is also a good landmark. In front of the entrance, almost due West from it, are two islets named Silva and Silva de Afuera, of which the latter is the westernmost ; these are also good marks for the river. In the entrance to the river are two large marshy islands formed of the soil brought down by floods ; these are named Espartal and Porcada, — the latter is the southernmost. The channel between the islands is too shallow, and too much obstructed by shoals to be navigated except at high tide, and then only by boats, the entrance to the river is consequently south of the islands between them and point Cayado, and is about ^ of a mile wide ; the channel north of the islands is also unnavigable. The depth in the principal channel, in 1864, was 6 to 8 fathoms at low tide, and it was then sheltered on the north side by the Belitre bank, partially dry when the tide was out, extendin^i; west- ward from the south end of Porcada. Immediately within or eastward of this bank is a rocky islet named Perdono. The best time to enter the river of Pueblo Nuevo is during the flood and with the wind from seaward. Special care is required on account of the shoal extending seaward from Porcada islet, the limits of which are indicated by breakers while there is any sea. Having entered, steer for Perdono islet and pass it on its south side ; the depth hereabout will be 4^ Mhoms, deepening PUEBLO NUEVO. 29 3ahia Honda he East and xl the vessel la northward ' which those st mentioned iidor island ; le shore, and I land, being irhich will be m the shore, point Muerto loint dividing )f Pivay, — in to westward, immediately a also unsafe it a moderate is fronted by edge of this approaching ; —usually, the iver Laveuia, iver Tavasera 'ueblo Nuevo. liar formation too feet high, tt, and having /h side of the ;08t due West \i the latter is led of the soil a, — the latter ) shallow, and ide, and then of the islands ; the channel sipal channel, 1 on the north ;tendinj» west- stward of this to 6i and 7 fathoms, fine sand. The anchorage selected by the French surveying vessel Ohlif/ado in 1854, was imnitdiately southward of Perdono islet, with that islet in one with the south end of Purcado island bearing N. 28° E.; north point of Silva island N. 75° W. ; north point of Silva de Afuera S. 88° W. ; and point Cayado S. 83° W. Perdono islet is steep and safe to approach ; it may be rounded (1864), but there will be little occasion to go north of it, the channel south of it being wide and the main body of the river. In the event of going north of it, keep close to it on account of the shoal from Porcada island. The depth eastward of the south point of Porcada island is very irregular, and frequently does not exceed 8^ fathoms ; hence it is not a convenient anchorage for large vessels, but for small vessels drawing less than 1 6 feet it offers the advantage of being well shut in and protected from almost all winds. According to the inhabitants, westerly winds frequent from June to October, occasionally send into the river a very heavy sea, which causes considerable inconvenience to vessels anchored near Perdono island ; at such times it will be advisable to run further into tha river, and obtain shelter under the south-east side of Poicada, — the best passage is westward of Oonejo, an island situated about a mile from Perdono. The village of Pueblo Nuevo is at some distance within the river, and such is the difficulty of the navigation that it is necessary to be guided to it by a native. Here, although it is but a small place, almost all kinds of provisions can be obtained in considerable quantities.* The best time to leave the river is when the land wind is blowing and a little before the end of the flood. Steer so as to give point Cayado a berth of about a cable's lengtli, and pass southward of the islands Silva and Silva de Afuera, after which such a course may be run as may be convenieul. If necessary, a vessel may run between the two Silvas, but the channel eastward of the easternmost islet is safe only for those that draw 10 to 1.5 feet; there is an isolated rock off the north-west side of Porcadu, at J of a mile from shore, which renders extra care necessary. The north end of Silva island has a shoal extending from it nearly a mile. It is high water full and change at 8h. 44m. The tide apparently rises 8 to 9 feet. The foregoing description of the river of Pueblo Nuevo is based chiefly upon the observations of the French surveying vessel Oblitjado in 1854. According to the chart of Sir Edward Belcher, R.N., 1859, a spit of 2^ fathoms runs off about a cable's length from the west side of point Cayado, and on the south side of the point art some rocks close to the shore, named Nueces, which are above water. The shoal extending northward from Silva island has not more than 10 feet on its extremity, and as it nearly joins the sandy spit jutting out from the north end of Porcada island, the channel north of the island cannot be considered safe. The soundings between the Silva islands are 9 to 12 fathoms, the latter being near Silva de Afuera. Sir Edward Belcher says, "the port consists of the outlet of a large river, which takes its name from a small village of huts, situated on the river Santiago, at some distance from the entrance. It is formed by a neck or island about 8 miles in length, which affords good anchorage for vessels of any class. Three larger streams discharge * It is said that the serpents in the various islands of the river, and also in the marshy land immediately bordering it, are of a venomous character. 80 SAN LORENZO AND DAVID BAYS. ^ {hemseWeB into the main basin at the western end of thia island, where the. apparent great entrance is situated ; but so studded with rocks and shoals, as to be unnavigable for anything larger than boats. It is in fact, an extensive archipelago, as most of the regions towards the Chiriqui territory ' iU be found to be on future examination. Water cannot be procured in any quantity, although it may probably be procurred by digging wells. The principal article of trade was sarcaparilla, that of this neighbourhood being esteemed of superior quality. The stream runs fresh atsomemilesup, but we did not either meet it, or succeed in finding the town. Sugar-cane, of good quality, was offered ; and tortoise-shell, one of the articles of trade, can be procured at the season." From the river of Pueblo Nuevo the coast takes a sudden turn in a westerly direction, — and at the distance of 28 miles is point Jnco or Ojo the east side of David bay. Nearly all this shore is low and fronted by ii s" iy strand. In the interior, at about 12 miles from the sea, is a chain (' mountains of considerable altitude, one of the peaks, in lat. 8° 28', long. b. uo', being 8140 feet high ; the country at the foot of these mountains consists in general of a well wooded plain. The entrances of the various rivers can usually be easily recognised by the white trunks of the mangrove trees, only the tops of which are in leaf; these rivers are barred, and the approach to them is known better by the nature of the bottom than by the depth, it being sandy in their immediate vicinity and muddy outside. Aloug a'l this ''jast as far as David bay there are no known sunken dangers, and vessels may run along it at the distance of 2 or 8 miles in soundings of 11 to 9} fathoms. At about 18 miles from Pueblo Nuevo is the commencement of some cliffs of a red colour, which are very conspicuous ; these continue some distance, and then the coast turns sharply southward and forms point Juco, the east side of David bay. On the east side of point Juco are some islands named Benado, which are a good mark for the bay to veseels approaching from eastward. San Lorenzo Bay. — The bend of the coast just mentioned, terminating in point Juco, forms a bay named San Lorenzo, from a river of that name which falls into it. It is so thickly strewn with rocks that all vessels should avoid entering it, nor from the same cause can the river be approached except in boats. There is rn.ther a considerable village on this river at a few miles from the sea. DAVID BAY is included between Juco point and a large island named Pcrida, Hi miles south-westward from the point. In it are numerous islands and rocks, but with the assistance of the Admiralty chart No. 2816, little difficulty will be experienced in selecting an anchorage. At about a mile south-westward from the point are two islets connected together and surrounded by a reef, named Monitas, the nouthem of which bears a close resemblance to i saddle ; and, at 2^ miles S. i W. from these islands is an isolated rock named Viuda, having a reef extending from it about ^ a mile in an E. by S. i S. direction, — as this rock and reef are both steep, with soundings immediately around them of 10 to 12 fathoms, they require great care to avoid. It is said that to vessels approaching David bay from southward the presence of the Vinda reef may generally be known by breakers, but whether this be the case or not, it is a very formidable danger. =i- • A ennken rock, the existance of which there is great reason to doubt, has been reported »t about 4 tnilei S.S.IS. from the Viuda. The French anrveving veasel Obligado sought '/ * DAVID BAY, &c. 91 In nearly the middle of David bay is a very dangt:ohoragi' in Parida island is at its north-east end, under protection cf au ish nt' which affords shelter from southward ; the depth mmss POINT BURRICA AND COIBA ISLAND. 83 but the is 6^ fatboms on mud, and there is a little sandy bay where a landing can be effected. If from David bay, vessels may pass either on the west or south sides of San Jose islands ; if the former, it is necessary in the boards to west- ward to tack immediately the depth becomes 4f fathoms. If this anchorage be approached from seaward, steer for the Viuda rock, and, passing it at the distance of about 1^ miles on its west side, direct your course for the San Jose islands ; leave these islands to the northward, and then steer for the north end of Parida island, maintaining a depth of 7 to G fathoms, but decreasing to 3^ fathoms as the anchorage is approached ; — when it deepens again to 6^ fathoms, anchor. The lead should be kept going, and a good look-out kept for any undiscovered sunken rocks. At this end of Parida plenty of good water may be obtained. Chimmo Bay. — At the south-west end of Parida island is a little bay named Chimmo, where is a depth of 10 to 2|^ fathoms ; good water may be obtained from here. In fi'ont of the bay is a little islet known by the nnme of Santa Cruz ; the passage in is north of this islet, because some rocks extend from it southward to the shore. A reef also runs off southward a short distance from some islets on the north side of the bay. When sailing round the south-west point of Parida island, it should have a berth of about a mile, on account of some sunken rocks i a mile from it, which have a depth of 15 and 16 fathoms close to them. From Parida island northward to the archipelago of islets fronting the coast, thero is, with the exception of a narrow channel of 8 to 3^ fathoms close round the north end of the island, a bed of rodis tlirough which they may be channels fit for boats. The sea usually breaks upon these reefs when there is any wind. Point Burrica. — From the south end of Parida island to the extremity of point Bumca, the bearing and distance are W. by S. i S., 31 miles. The coast between forms a large bay which receeds 20 miles from a supposed line connecting these points. The shore in the east part of the bay, consists of low islands forming the delta of the river David. Tlie principal entrance to the river, the Boca San Pedro, is between Sevillia and San Pedro islands, and as already noticed is impracticable for vessels. Sevillia is the easternmost island ; it abounds with game of various kinds, which can bo obtuiaed with facility. San Pedro is the westernmost of the largo islands of the r-ver ; from this island the coast trends westward and southward to point Burrica, and along the northem shore are mot with in succession the rivers Piedra, Pinos and Bartolome. In all this bay there is no sheltered roadstead, nor does it possess any advant)i|:je which should make it a place of resort, for vessels. COIBA ISLAND. — This is the largest island off tbo coast between Mariato and Burrica points, as it is 19 miles long in a I'i.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and about 12 miles wide in its broadest part, it is covered with forests, and there is abundance of good water in every part. Vessels may anchor off it on all sides during fine weather, but unfortunately it possesses no bay nor harbour in which shelter may be obtained from all winds. As it is at present (1854) uninhabited, it is seldom visited. It was surveyed in 1B48 by Lieut. Wood, R.N., and a chart (No. 1028) of it was subsequently published by the Admiralty. To tliis chart we nuist refer the reader, for the various details of its coast and outlying reefs. The nw'Stfrn c^iist of Coiba isliind apj)ears, from the suiTey, to be of moderate lieight, .uid linid, and there are no known dangers outside those abutting on the ni 84 COIBA ISLAND. If It I' Xi Bhore. At about half way down there is an open bay, named Hermosa, in which is a ''^pth of 20 to 14 fathoms. The eastern coast of the island forms a Damaa bay, 6 or 6 miles in extent, which affords a good depth of water and excellent shelter from westward. The soundings are fi-om 80 to 15 fathoms, shoaling to the shore; and water may be obtained in the northern part of the bay. Ofl" the southern shore rocky shoals extend nearly a mile out, so that some care is required to avoid them. In the middle of the bay the land is low, and here there is a small stream, named San Juan, at the entrance to which are some sandy flats. The navigator Colnett anchored in Damas bay in 1794, and considered it to be the most commodious place for cruizers he had met with in these seas, as it abounded with wood and water ; also trees of the cedar kind, large enough to make masts for first-rate ships, and of excellent quality ; his place of anchorage was in 19 fathoms, with the watering place bearing about N.W. t N., and the south point of Coiba S.E. by S. ; but he stated that vessels might lie near enough to the shore to be able to haul off their water ; the time of anchoring must however be considered, for sandy flats run a long way ofl", and may deceive in distance. At the period of his visit the flood came from northward, flowing seven hours and ebbing five, and the pei-pendicular rise of the tide was 2 fathoms. "The anchorages throughout the bay are good ; and 5 or 6 miles off you will find 33 and 35 fathoms, good holding muddy ground. Few vegetables or fruits are to be obtained here, but shell- fish, as crabs, cockles, periwinkles, and oysters, may be bad in plenty ; there are also other fish to be caught, but alligators, sharks, and sea-snakes swarm on the adjacent shores, and seem to harass, destroy, and lessen the quantity ; deer and other animals are said to inhabit the island, and birds and monkeys are numerous, but they are very shy, and difficult to get at, owing to the state of agitation they live in, from the wolves, tigers, hawks, and vultures that prey upon them. Turtles also are in great abundance, yet hard to catch. Whales also frequent these shores, but not in any gi-eat numbers ; some of these are of the spermaceti species." In the account of Lord Anson's voyage, by Richard Walter, published in 177G, there is a description of Coiba island, in the following terms. It should be premised that the anchoring place was in Damas bay. " The island of Coiba is extremely convenient for wooding and watering, since the trees grow close to the high-water mark, and a large rapid stream of fresh water runs over the sandy beach into the sea : so that we were little more than two days in laying in all the wood and water we wanted. The whole island is of a very moderate height, excepting one part. It consists of a continued wood spread all over the whole surface of the countrj', which preserves its vendure the year round. Amongst the other wood, we found there abundance of cassia, and a few lime-trees. It appeared singular to us, that, considering the climate and the shelter, we should see no other birds than parrots, paroquets, and mackaws ; indeed, of these last there were pro- digious ilights. Ne;'.t to these birds, the animals we found in most plenty, were monkeys and iguanas, and these we frequently killed for food ; for, notwithstanding thero were many herds of deer upon the place, the difficulty of penetrating the woods prevented our coming near them ; so that, though we saw them often, we killed only two during our stay. Our prisoners assured us that this island abounded with tigers ; and we did once discover the print of a tiger's paw upon the beach, but the tigers themselves we never tH iti lid HICARONa. 85 saw. The Spaniards, too, informed us, that there was frequently found in the woods a mjst mischievous serpent, called the flying snake, which, they said, darted itself from the boughs of trees, on either man or beast that came within its reach ; and whose sting they believed to be inevitable death. Besides these dangerous land animals, the sea hereabouts is infested with great numbers of alligators, of an extraordinary size : and wo often observed a large kind of flat-fish, jumping a considerable height out of the voter, which we supposed to be the fish that is said fi'oquently to destroy the pearl divers, by clasping them in its fins as they r'&e from the bottom ; and we were told that the divers, for their security, ari^ now always armed with a shaiT) knife, which, when they are entangled, they stick into the belly of the fish, and thereby disengage themselves from its embraces. Whilst the ship continued here at anchor, the Commodore, attended by some of his otiicerf., went in a boat to examine a bay which lay to the north- ward ; and they r.fterwards ranged all along the eastern side of the island ; and in the placjs where they put on shore, in the course of this expedition, they generally found the soil to be extremely rich, and met with great plenty of excellent water. In particular, near the north-east point of tlie island, they discovered a natural cascade, which surpassed, as they conceived, everything of this kiid which human art or industry hath hitheiio produced. It was a river of t' ansparcnt water, about forty yards wide, which rolled do^vn a declivity ofnearloOin length. The channel it fell in was very irregular, for it was entirely composed of rock, both its sides and bottom being made up of large detached blocks ; and, by these, the course of the water was frequently interrupted : for in some parts it ran sloping with a rapid bat uniform motion, while in others it tumbled over the ledges of rocks with a pei"pendicular descent. AH the neighbourhood of this stream was a fine wood, and even the huge masses of rock which overhung the water, and which, by their various projections, formed the inequalities of the channel, were covered with lofty forest trees." Rear- Admiral Sir George Seymour has remarked of Coiba island, " It is about the same size as the Isle of Wight. Oft' the points, ledges of rocks generally extend ; but there is an appearance of an anchoring-place in the intervening bays on the east side, along which I proceeded in the Sampson steam- vessel. The soil on the coast is good, but the interior is nearly inaccessible from the steepness of the cliff's and the tangled vegetation. We found traces of pearl-divers having visited the shores ; but there are no inhabitants (1847) except at the small islet of Rancheria, between which and the n(«'th-east end of Coiba there is good anchorage. A Frenchman, of the name of Borget, is resident on Rancheria ; and this situation, as far as I could judge on a cursory view, seems more favourable for an establishment than any we saw on the larger island." Hicarons. — Southward of Coiba are the Hicarons, two small islands, the southernmost o." which is in iat. 7° G', long. 81° 46' ; the larger island is 8} miles long, and the smaller 1 mile ; they lie north and south of each other, being separated by a narrow channel. The small island is entirely covered with cocoa-trees ; and the large one bears an equal appearance of leafy verdure, but there are very few trees of the cocoa kind. Hicaron is 880 feet high, and the most extensive look-out, says Captain Colnett, is from the top of this island, for it commands Coiba and the wliolo of the coast and oay to the northward. u 2 86 RANCHERIA, CONTRERAS, SECAS, &o. M S f! The channel between Hicaron and Goiba is about 4 miles wide, and has an inegular depth of 6 to 10 fathoms. It is clear of sunken rocks ; but as there are some dangers near the south-east point of Coiba, it will be more prudent to pass southward of the islands than to attempt the passage within them. The principal danger to be avoided is the Hill rock, a small patch of 6 feet water, lying 2 miles S. ^ E. from Barca island, a small islet close to the shore of Coiba, and 5^ miles E. J N. fi'om David point, the eastern point of Hicaron island ; close to this rock are soundings of 10 to 15 fatlioms, so that it is very dangerous. Rancheria &c. — Off the N.E. point of Coiba i land are several islands and rocks. The largest island, named Rancheria, is 1^ miles in length, and lies about IJ miles from the shore, from which it is separated by a channel of 7 and 8 fathoms, but, as there ai'e several rocks in this passage, it will not be prudcxii to attempt to run through.* North-eastward of this, about 4^ miles are two smaller islands, named Afuera and Afuerita, which are surrounded (for a very short distance) by rocks. A reef extends fi'om the south-east point of Afiiera, tlie larger island, about 2 cables' length ; at its extremity is a black rock, almost covered at high tide. Contreras. — This group is about 10 miles northward from Coiba, and is ci>mposed of two principal islands surrounded by many small islets and rocks. Tl\e northern island is named Brincanco, the southern Pajaros. Among them there is no good anchorage. The Oblir/odo anchored north of Brincanco in 18.'>4, opposite a little bay in which were anchored the boats of some pearl and turtle fishers, and found the bottom very bad for holding, although composed of gravel. Vessels may approach the Contreras without hesitation if due precaution be taken, as it is believed that there are no sunken dangers among thom the positions of wliicb are not shown by breakers. The soundiuqs imrucdiately around them are 80, 35 and 40 fathoms, the latter being close to their south- west side, and there is a clear channel between tlie two largo islands in which the depth is 33, 21 and 34 fathoms. At about 2 miles south from the islands is the Prosper rock, a pinnacle having tbe appearance of a black tower ; althougli this rock is steep on all sides, it will be prudent not to attempt to pass between it and the islands on account of a reef partially dry at low tide situated about midway in the channel. Secas. — This group of islets and rocks is situated nearly 15 miles from the coast between Pueblo Nuevo and David bay. About and among them are no known sunken rocks, the positions of which are not usually indicated by breakers. Here theie is good shelter for small vessels, and upon some of the islands a landing may bo effected . but there is very little inducement to go ashore as no water can be obtained. If the approach of night or failure of wind oblige a vessel in their vicinity to anchor, the best anchorage is in 10 to 12 fathoms on sand. At about 8 miles eastward from the Secas is a dangerous rock named Bruja, which is almost awash at low tide. The position of this reef makes it a very formidable danger, especially at night; there are sour dings of 20 to 24 fathoms close around it. if • There is good anchorage 8.S.E. of Rancheria, opposite a sandy beach, whence wood and wiitcr can be easily procured from the island. Some shelter is furnished by a high round inland. in GULF OF DULCE, &c. 37 Montuosa. — Tliis little island is situated about 22 miles westward from Coiba island, its position being considered to be lat. 7" 28', long. 82'' 13'. It rises to a considerable heiglit, and has its summit covered with cocoa and other trees. A narrow reei" above and ur.der water; extends from it about 3 miles in a north-wester'v direction, and a reef also runs off from its south- east side. Captain Col' it landed here in 1794. He mentions that the bottom on the south side of the island, and also the shore near the sea is rocky. A sandy beach was found behind some little creeks between the rocks which afforded a safe landing for boats. Ladrones. — These are two islands situated about 15 miles southward of Parida island, their position being about lat. 7" 52', long. 82" 25'. They are barren, of moderate height, and together are not more than a mile in extent. They may be approached with safety, if precaution be taken to avoid any sunken rocks there may be in their vicinity. The only known dangers are some rocks nearly a mile northward of them, and a reef aboit 4 miles from them in the same direction, upon wliich at low tide is a depth of only 6 feet ; as the position of this latter is only shown by breakers when there is a stiff breeze, it is a reef that must be very carefully guarded against. GULF OP DULCE. — Point Burrica,'the extremity of the land on the south-east side of the gulf of Dulce, appears like an island at a distance, and may be readily recognised, whether seen fi'om south-westward or south-east- ward. It advances seaward considembly from the main land, and its summit rises into three hills of apparently equal height and distance from each other. A nearer approach brings into view the low point which terminates it ; this also resembles an island from a distance. At rather more than a mile from its extremity is a high isohited rock, serving as an excellent object for recogni- tion when making the land from seaward ; in the channel between, and also around this rock are breakers, upon which account it will be prudent for veesels to give it a wide berth. Point Burrica is sufficiently lofty to be seen in clear weather from a distance of about 35 miles ; in its vicinity the Hood tide sets N.W. with some strength, hence it is recommended to avoid being becahued on its south-east side. From point Burrica the coast trends about 25 miles in a N.W. dii'ection to point Platanal at the entrance to the gulf of Duk e. It is bold throughout, especially at point Platanal, where the mountain inmediately over it rises to the height of 2880 feet, and faces the sen in an almost perpendicular cliff. This mountain is succeeded in a northerly direction by a moderately flat country, not visible from a distance, hence the cause of the land between points Burrica and Platanal appearing like an isla'ul from seaward. It is said that in all this coast there is but one place where a landing can be effected, and that is in a little rocky creek at about 13 riiles from point Burrica, into which a rivulei; falls. With a westerly wind it will be advisable to give the coast just described a wide berth. Although not absolutely unsafe, the sea in its vicinity is very deep and rocky. At 2 miles from the land tlie lead fails to teach the bottom, sounding 80 fathoms, and with a strong wiTid from south-westward breakers of extreme violence are to be met with inshore. For the.^e reasons, vessels bound into the gulf of Dulce are advised to bear away for cape Matapalo, the west side of the gulf, aftermnking point Burrica ; moreover within the cape is good anchorage and a more moderati; depth of water. The gulf of Dulce extends into the land about 40 miles in a north-we&terly 88 GULF OF DULCE. (I "■it* B direction, with an average width of 14 to 10 miles. It is but little frequented, and until 1852 was almost unknown to Europeans ; at that time its population consisted only of 12 to 15 families located at point Arenitas, on the west side of the gulf. Its soil is extremely fertile, and it is asserted that its navigation is by no means difficult. It possesses numerous excellent anchorages, and there are no known sunken dangers at a greater distance from the land than a mile, with the exception of the bank facing the river Goto, on the east shore, at about 15 miles within the entrance ; this is the principal danger in the gulf, but as the sea almost always breaks upon it, and its position is well indicated by the soundings in • its vicinity, there is but little difficulty in •voiding it. Cape Matapalo, on the west side of the entrance to the gulf of Dulce, is high, precipitous and covered with trees ; where the trees have fallen on the steep slopes the soil has a reddish appearance. This cape is the south-eastern termination of the high land SaJ-si-puedes, which can be seen from a consider- able distance ; hence, with the high land terminating at point Burrica, the situation of the gulf of Dulce is well marked. At about a mile from the cape in an E.S.E. direction there is a rock 10 to 12 feet high, known as Matapalo rock, which stands out prominently from the coast, and when viewed from south-westward or north-eastward, appears very conspicuously ; it is safe to approach, but as there are breakers between it and the land, vessels should always pass it on its south side. The coast on the opposite side of the gulf is believed to be clear of all outlying dangers, but what are visible. All the western shore of the gulf consists of a flat well wooded country, sandy to the village of Arenitas, and afterwards alluvial. At about 6 miles northward from Matapalo rock is point Sombrero, from which a reef extends about ^ a mile ; and 8 miles further in the same direction is Tigrito point, also having a reef from it to the distance of f of a mile ; — these reefs are the only known dangers on the western side of the gulf whicli vessels have to fear in the approach to Arenitas from southward. Point Arenitas. — At about 9 miles from Tigrito point is point Arenitas, a low sandy projection of the coast, which in 18f)2 was for the greater part covered with trees. The houses on its extremity are visible only from a moderate distance. At about a cables' length eastward from the point is a coral bank, which partially dries at low tide ; it has an extent of only 2 cables' lengths from East to West, and as its eastern edge is so steep that soundings of 14 to 12 fathoms may be obtained close to it, more than ordinary care is requii-ed when approaching the point. Small vessels may pass between this bank and the shore, the narrow channel having a depth in it of 16 to 13 feet; it is necessary to use the lead. When approaching point Arenitas from cape Matapalo, the sea is too deep for anchorage until point Tigrito is approached, the average soundings being 85 to 80 fathoms. Off this point (Tigrito) is anchorage in 13 to 16 fathoms, sand and shells ; or further out in about 20 fathoms, green mud. At Arenitas point there is anchorage either N.W. or S.E. of the village ; the latter is preferable if it be intended to remain only a short time, on account of its exposure to the sea breeze and the consequent freedom from the excessive heat felt northward of the point. The best position for anchoring south-east- ward of the point is, at about a mile from the land in 10 to 12 fathoms, green mud, mth the flagstaff (1852) bearing W. by N. i N., and point Tigrito S. iE. GULF OF DULCE. aa The anchorage north-westward of the point is very good, and convenient for effecting general repairs ; hut, if it be necessary to heel the vessel over, the Golfito, on the eastern side of the gulf, will be found a far more suitable place. The depth is 16 fathoms at ^ to i^ a mile from the land, on green mud ; east- ward and northward of this position the soundings are 83 to 55 fathoms. The landing place at point Arenitas is on its north side, at the entrance to a little creek which is dry at low water. Tlie point is almost as steep as a quay. No water can be obtained here to supply a vessel, but sufficient may be got from the river Tigre, 5 miles north-westward from it ; when oft" this river it is advisable to send ashore at half- flood, that the stream may bo ascended as far as possible, and it is recommended to leave the river at half- ebb, because the sea fulls rapidly. It is high water at the village of point Arenitas on the days of full and change of the moon at 8h. 15m.; the highest rise of tide observed was 12 feet. When the BriUianie was at point Arenitas in 1852, a small quantity of fresh provisions was obtained from the village. Cattle could only be procured from the hacienda of Tigre. The neighbouring forrests were ascertained to be rich in spars, and timber suitable for building purposes. Fish was abundant. Point Tif/re. — From Arenitas to point Tigre the distance, as before observed, is 5 miles in a north-westerly direction ; the coast between, covered with mangroves, is so steep that at about a ^^ of a mile from it the depth is 15 to 30 fathoms, on sand. This point is formed by a mud bank, dry at low water, which extends out about ^ a mile. It is on the north side of the poiut that the little river Tigre, already alluded to, falls into tlie sea. In 1852 there were two enti'ancos to the river, neither having much depth nor breadth, but the northern had the most v.'ater. From poiut Tigre to El Rincoii, the bead of the gulf, the distance is 17 m^iles, along a shore destitute of auy objects sufficiently remarkable to be mentioned. At 5 miles from the point is the little river Aguja, which has or had a hut at its entrance ; and 9 miles from this is Palma poiut, a very slight projection of the land, recognised by its two cocoa-trees, which are the only trees of the kind on all the coast from point Arenitas. The river Rincou is 8^ miles from Palma poiut ; it has two entrances which can only be entered by boats. The soundings between the rivers Tigre and Aguja are not so deep as those southward of Tigre point ; but they increase in depth as Palma point is ap- proached, and also towards El llincou, the head of the gulf. At El lliucon the coatst suddenly turns N.E. by E. ^ E. and trends in that direction 11 miles, wheu it changes to E.S.E. and maintains that line of bearing throughout almost the whole of the east side of tlie gulf. In a very considerable part of this coast the mountains rise almost from the sen, and are covered with iuipeuetrable foi-ests ; this description of coast prevails so far ad the Golfito, when the mountains recede from the shore, and are succeeded by an almost flat country. At the head of the gulf, at not more than ^ a mile from the north shore, are some islets, surrounded by coral banks. River E'sqiiinan. — Following the coast round the north-east side of the gulf, we meet, at 4 miles from the islets just mentioned, the small river Esquinas, which falls into the sea through a marshy plain. Fronting it is a bank of mud and sand, soil brought ilown in rainy seasons, which extends from the shore about 1^ miles and is for the most part dry at low tide. A channel into the river has been reported as existing across this bank, but at the period of the 40 GULF OF DULCE. M' examination of the gulf (in 1852) by the oflRcers of the French ship BrilUante, the bank was dry over the whole of its extent ; there may therefore be a channel only during floods in the interior. From the river Esquinas the coast trends 4^ miles south-eastward to point Esquinas and is bold all the way, and the soundings met with in succession are 8 to 10 and 16 fathoms at a very short distance ofi" it, the latter being close to the point. From this headland to point San Jose the distance is 9i miles in an E. by S. i S. direction, passing at about midway a bold projection of the land ; around point San Jose are rocks, off which is a pearl fishery at the depth of 6^^ to 10 fathoms. From this point to the entrance of the Golfito the distance is about 4 miles. When running do\vn the coast from the islets to the Golfito, it is advisable to give the shore a good berth, as it has not been very closely examined. The soundings close to the land are represented as deep, which the mountain- ous nature of the country in its immediate vicinity would lead one to infer. Ooljito. — This is an inlet of irregular shape running into the coast about 8i^ miles, the upper or south-eastern part of which is very shallow. The entrance is well defined on the north side by point Golfito, a high bold promontory having a depth of 6 fathoms close off it, and on the south side by a hill 790 feet high having at its base a low sandy peninsula ; the latter is very narrow, and has or had a few cocoa trees upon it. The entrance is about i of a mile wide, and is in the direction of N.E. by N. ; at first the depth is 13 to 7 fathoms, being shallowest off the southern shore, and thence it gradu- ally decreases to 4^ fathoms as the extremity of the sandy peninsula is approached. Immediately within this sandy spit, on its south side, the soundings are 4^ to 2 fathoms, and vessels may enter, if care be taken to use the lead frequently to avoid any shallow spot that may have escaped the detection of the surveyors. If unfortunately it be necessary to heel the vessel over for repair, it may be done in the Golfito, as there are many places suitable for that purpose. Squalls and heavy rains are very prevalent here. The regular winds of the gulf make the navigation of the channel leading into the Golfito comparatively easy, and with the land wind vessels can leave it without difficulty. There is anchorage in mid-channel in about 4^ fathoms. If desirous to anchor eastward of the peninsula, it will be advisable not to do so northward of the house on its extremity bearing W. by N. ^ N. River Goto. — From the Golfito the shore trends 7^^ miles S.E. by E. to the river Goto, and afterwards 15 miles south-eastward and westward to point Banco, the latter portion of coast forming the bay of Pavon ; it is low and sandy throughout, and backed by a flat well timbered country. The river Goto is the most considerable stream that falls into the gulf. It is said to have two entrances, 5 to 6 feet deep with sufficient water therefore for the admission of boats, but fronting it is a bank, ah-eady alluded to, which renders approach to the river difficult ; this bank extends from shore about 2 miles, and lines the coast northward as far as the entrance to the Golfito, its breadth gradually decreasing as it approaches the sandy peninsula into which it ulti- mately merges. The sea, even in calm weather, generally breaks on the bank ; hence, although its outer edge is very steep, it can usually be avoided without difficulty. In Pavon bay th-- soundings at a mile from the shore are 5 to 3 fathoms on sand. Vessels may anchor there, but only in very fine weather, and with the wind from eastward. / > SAL-SI-PUEDE3 AND LLORENA POINTS. 41 Point Banco is bold and steep, but not so lofty fts point Pliitaual 6 miles south from it. It is well wooded, and at its base are some rocks too near the land to be dangerous except to vessels close in shore. At about a mile south from it is a little stream, named Claro. It is advisable to give the coast between points Banco and Platanal a good berth, as it is believed that rocks extend off it a short distance. Point Sal-si-puedes. — From cape Matapalo the coast trends W.N.W. 16 miles, and then westward about 1 miles to point Sal-si-puedes ; the actual bearing and distance of the two points of land from each other being W. by N. \ N. and E. by S. \ S., 20 miles. It is low and sandy all the way but immediately behind it is high land visible from a considerable distance. Except in very fine weather it is unadvisable to approach this coast closely, the sea off it being deep, and there being usually extremely heavy breakers upon the beach ; in some parts there is no bottom, sounding 50 fathoms, at less than ^ a mile from the shore. At times, after landing, a sudden breeze has sprung up bringing with it so heavy a sea, that many hours have elapsed before the unlucky boatmen could re-embark. At about a mile southward from point Sal-si-puedes there is a round bare rock named Choncha Pelona. It is possible that there may be a clear passage between this rock and the shore, but as such has not been ascertained it will be advisable for vessels to keep outside it ; it is believed that deep water exists at a very short distance from its south side. Corcovadn Back. — Point Sal-si-puedes is high and precipitous, and when bearing E. ^ N., with an offing of 5 miles, appears abrupt and cliffy. Hence to point Llorena the distance is 14*^ miles in a N.W. Jf W. direction. At about midway between the headlands is the Corcovado rock, which is 83 feet high, and, viewed from a moderate offing, stands out veiy prominently from the coast ; it is apparently joined to the shore by a sunken ledge, which is probably the seaward termination of a bank fronting the small river Sirena. It will be prudent when passing the Corcovado to give it a wide berth, as the locality has not been closely examined ; at 1^ miles south-westward from it the depth is 14 fathoms, and it is said that there is no bottom at 80 fathoms at a short distance southward from it. When approaching the Corcovado rock from north-westward it is sti'ongly recommended to avoid the coast between it and point Llorena, as it is suspected that there are sunken rocks or shoals off it ; the bottom is known to be extremely irregular, and the low sandy coast presents no prominent marks to prevent a vessel getting too near. It is said that having rounded point Llorena and steering a course too much to the shore, the depth decreases suddenly and with great iiTcgularity from 20 to 18 (?) fathoms ; but if a direct course be steered from the point to the rock the average soundings will be 11 fathoms on fine sand, differing however 1^ to 2^ fathoms between the casts. As soon as the rock bears about East the depth rapidly increases in the track southward. Point Llorena. — This is a high, steep, and almost pei-pendicular head- land, well wooded, and partially covered with a luxuriant vegetation ; it will be easily recognised by a fine cascade which falls from one of its cliffs. At a short distance from it are some islets some of which are well covered with phrubs. From point Llorena the coast runs 6 miles in a northerly direction to point San Jose, a bold bluff headland, having it is believed, deep water at a moderate 4S CANO ISLAND AND RIVER AGUJA, &c. 111 distance from the rocks at its base ; this point may bo recognised from a good offing by a spot on it bare of trees. At about midway is point Sau Pedro, a clifiy projection having rocks about it under water. At nearly 1^ miles frmu this part of the coast is a little rocky islet, named Sau Pedro, which is covered with trees and has sunken rocks about it extending seaward a cable's length or more. As this little islet is probably joined to the shore by a rocky ledj^o, it will be prudent when running down the coast to keep westward of it, giving it at tVe bi.me time a wide berth. The ielet and reef shelter a little bay under point San Pedro, the situation of which could, in 1852, be further known by a rock with a single tree on it, and also by the huts of the native Indians. The beach on the south-east side of point San Joso is bordered with cocoa and banana trees. Boats can land here under the rocks extending from the point. Cane Island. — Off this part of the coast, at about 10 miles distance, is the island of Cano, which is about a mile in extent from E. by N. to \V. by S., and i a mile across. It is covered with trees, and the surface of the island is so level, that their summits present iiom a distance the appearance of almost a horizontal line. Its west extremity is surrounded by a reef under water, extending out, it is considered, about i a mile ; upon account of which, and also because the current sets strongly upon it, vessels should give this end of the island a wide berth ; — so steep is this reef that close to its edge is a depth of 15 fathoms, and at a cable's lengtii from it 83 fathoms. The north-east point of the island has also some rocks about it, above and under water. The landing place on Cano island is on a sandy beach at its north-west side. In stormy weather, with a strong wind from westward, it will be imprudent to attempt to go on shore, as these winds always bring a heavy sea. In the channel between the island and the shore there is no known danger. The depth midway is about 85 fathoms, which diminishes gradually eastward and westward ; it is perhaps less deep nearer the land than the island. When steering from the island southward towards point Llorena the bottom becomes very irregular, as the soundings change suddenly from 27 to 82 fathoms ; but near the point it again becomes regular. Northward of a supposed line joining the island to point San Jose, the lead brings up a green compact sand ; southward of the lino this sand is mixed with fine sand and broken shells. Biver Atjuja. — Following the shore from point San Jose about 8 miles, wo meet with the little I'iver Aguja which can be entered by boats. This is the only stream on the coast between the gulfs of Dulce and Nicoya, whence water can be obtained with facility. Sierpe Bay. — From the river Aguja, a high wooded shore fronted by a naiTow beach, trends northward 5 miles to Sierpe bay, where is a little river. The bay is surrounded by high land, and can bo recognised from an offing of 8 miles by a large bare jiart called the ivstniiln. The soundings across the entrance to the bay are IG to 18 fathoms, on green sand of considerable tenacity. The north point of Sierpe bay, named Violine, is a bold and nigged pro- jection of coast. Off it is an islet covered with trees ; around this islet is a sunken rocky ledge, which may possibly extend to the shore, — hp-^ce vessels should always pass this islat on itn west side, giving it a wide berth. Sacate Islet. — At about 2 miles from Violine islet in a N, by W. direction, i MALA DE LOS INDIOS, AND UBITA POINTS, &c. 48 od a lilt ed or it it er O is a little islet named Sacato, which is distant nearly 8 miles from the nearest shore. It in believed to bo surrounded by rocky ledge. Point ndala de los Indios. — From pmut Violinc the coast bends sharply round eastward and forms tiio little bay of Violine, into the north side of which the rivers Guajumal and Matapulo i'ull. It then trend- northward, or rather westward of North, 19 milos, and at the end of that distance sicLlenly turns to the westward to point Mala de los Indios. All this laud is h)w, well wooded and in the interior niiushy ; it contains si'Vrral rivers, at some distance inland is said to be a l.irgi' lake of which these streams are the outlets. These rivers, in Buccession from the Matapalo, bear the names of Brava, Chica, and Coronada. The coast is believed to have no sunken dangers olf it, and it is n sorted that the soundings in its vicinity are regular, averaging IT) to 10 fathoms at 8 to 2 miles from shore ; the bottom is, however, as might be expected, shallower in tlic immediate noighbourliood of the river?.* Point Mala de los Indios is bold and rugged ; at a mile south-westward from it the depth is 16 fathoms. Tliis point is tln: comnicncemeut of some high land, the Cerro de Ubita, which extends a 1 g the coast in a north-westerly direction; from this circumstance it is easily recognised, and especially too, as the land eastward and southward of it is low. Point Ubita. — The coast from point Mala do los Indios trends 7 miles in a N.W. by W. ^ W. dircelii)u to point Ubita, and is in general bold and cliffy. At rather more than 2 miles from point Mala de los Indies, a cluster of rocks above water, named Ballenita, will be recognised by their peculiar form, being slender in shape and pointed. Outside these, at a mile more to seaward, is a large rock, the Ballena, covered with giuiiio ; it is surrounded by a rocky ledge, which extends from it some little distance in a W.S.W. direction, and should c nsequently be approached with some care ; — it is said that the sea always breaks upon this ledge. Point Ubita has some rocks jutting off from it, and these are followed by a reef, under shelter of which, in what is called port Ubita, vi ssels of any size, it is said, may obtain shelter. Boats can land here without difficulty, and water may be procured from a river which here falls into the sea by two mouths, one eastward and the other westward of the i)oint. Point Dominical; distant 6^ miles from point Ubita, is easily dis- tinguished by its dark appearance, owing to the peculiar vegetation thui covers it. The various projecting points between are well wooded, and there are several creeks of little importance, the chief of which bear the naiuea of Dominical and Puerto Nuevo. At 2 miles eastward from point Dominical the depth is 20 fathoms, muddy bottom, and here vessels may anchor in fine weather, or nearer the shore, according as it may be convenient ; the ground is good for holding. Point Quepos. — Point Dominical is succeeded by a low sandy coast which trends 17 miles in a W. by N. ^ N. direction to point Naranjos, a bluff projection, and this again is followed by a low coast for a distance of 4 miles to point Quepos. In this extent there are four rivers, named Dominical, Barru, Savagre, and Naranjos, the last mentioned being on the east side of the point of that name ; none of these can, we believe, be ascended for any • It IF probable that all the rivers on this part of the coast an; in some way connected in thein'erior, as it is stated by the natives, that a canoe entering the river Sierpe, at point Vicline, can rejoin the sea at point Mala de los Indios. 44 POINT MALA. = 1 .1 I distance even by canoes. The rivvir Savagrc is the most important of the rivtTH, ami its banks are the most Tinited by the IndiauH. The coast between points Dominical and NaranjoH in belioTod to bo clear of sunken dangers. It is stated that vessels may run along it at tho distance of 2 miles in a depth of 10 to 24 and 27 fathoms, green mud. A nearer approach than this should not be made, tho coast having been only very imperfectly examined. In the vicinity of Naranjos point is a group of islets, having sunken rocks about them ; the largest and easternmost is of reddisli colour. At a mile outside these islets tho depth is 25 to 27 fathoms, mud. Qucpos point is of moderate height and covered with trees. On its west side are some rocks situated some distance from the land, under shelter of which boats may anchor. In the immediate neighbourhood of this point, between Narai^os point and it, are some islets of similar character and appearance to those described in the proceeding parngi'aph ; tho largest, Manuel Antonio, will be recognised by its form being that of a trapezium, and its highest part, having trees upon it, is cleft in a remarkable manner. This islet shelters a small sandy creek, which is occasionally a resort of turtle fishers. There is no passage between these islets and the land. Point Mala. — From Quepos point to point Mala the coast runs in the direction of West about 24 miles, and is low and flat tho whole distance. At aboat a mile from Quepos point is the little river Veija ; 2 miles from this is that of Las Damas ; and 5 J miles further westward is tho river Pirri. These rivers, with the exception of the Vieja, are easily recognised from a moderate offing ; not any of them are of the slightest value to shipping. Upon tho whole of this coast the surf beats with gi-eat violence, rendering a lauding almost impossible with a strong southerly wind. The soundings at 2 miles from shore are 12 to IG fathoms, fine sand, which increase as point Mala is approached, and the sand becon^es mixed with mud. Point Mala is very low, and covered with trees and mangroves. A reef extends from it in a southerly direction about 1^ miles, upon which are some islets and rocks. The bottom in the immediate vicinity of this reef is very irregular, changing suddenly from 18 to 11 fathoms on a bottom of coarse sand and broken shells. When rounding the point, rioi9 than ordinary care is required, there being no objects on shore by which the position of the outer part of the reef may be known ; — the current oif it is always westerly, but varies in strength from 1 to 2 miles an hour, according to vhe wind. It will be prudent not to get into a less depth hereabout than 80 or 25 fathoms. From point Mala (in the English chart No. 2145, point Judas) a low sandy coast continues in an almost straight line 6^ miles in a N.W. by W. direction to point Guapilon, off which about ^ a mile, are two rocks, awash at low water, whose position is generally denoted by breakers ; this point is the termination of the high land which at only 3^ miles N.E. by N. from it rises to the height of 2172 feet, hence it is a very bold headland. All this coast has a shoal extending from it some distance, causing breakers in blowing weather. At 2 miles from point Mala is the little river T\.sulubre, the position of which is readily recognised. When off point Guapilon it mil be prudent i. it to approach the coast nearer than the depth of 24 fathoms, which will be at .n offing of about 2 miles ; this is on account of the sunken rocks just mentioned. It is said that in the narrow channel between the rocks and the point is a depth of 8 to 10 fathoms. PORT IIERRADURA AND GULF OF NICOYA. 46 IS Port Herradura. — From point Ouapilon the coast maintains the direction of N.W. by W., for 8^ miloH to a littlo buy named Herradura whi>re good shelter may be obtained from all windn except those from westward. It is formed on the north side by a bold rocky point, from which a reef extends a short distance ; and on tlie south side by a similar point of land, but bolder, us it consists of a great rounded lull with very high land immediately behind it. Attached to the south point by a reef dry at low tide is an islet, named Cano, which is nearly of the same height ns tl: 3 point ; this islet has also a reef extending from it on all sides to 1^ cables' length or more. When the bay was surveyed in 1852, the islet was covered with trees. Port Herradura has an extent east and west of about 1] miles, and is 1:^ rniies wide from shore to shore. The soundings decrease from 20 fathoms ; > !: hi;: From Calderas hluff the coast trends round to the north-westward 8 miles, to Arenas point, off which a bank of 3.^ and 4.V fatlioms extends 2i miles in a southerly direction, having a small spot of 10 to 12 feet upon it; this spot lies with the extremity of the point hearinj:; N. * W., 1^ miles, and the Pan de Aziicar W.S.W. .V S., 3] m.'loa. The bank is very steep on the western side, deepening suddenly from 7 to 22 fathoms ; but not so on the eastern side, the soundhigs from it to the eastern coast being 5 to 8, 9 and 7 fathoms. Arenas point has a shelf of mud extending about a mile westward from it, which is awash at low water. It forms the south bank of a small stream, which has its outlet immediately northward of it. On the north side of this river there is another shelf of mud, which also becomes dry at low water. Upon this point there is or was a small //.iw/ light, visible about 10 miles. The villiigo of Puntrt Arenas, has not at present, a population of more than 1500. Tlie inner anchorage, named the Estaro, siti'ated nortliwai'd of the point, admits at high tide, vessels drawing 10 to 13 ffet, and can bo entered only with a pilot's assistance. The outer anchorage southward of the point, will accommodate all ordinary vessels, the depth being 5 to 7 fathoms ; but this anchorage, being exposed to southerly winds, can be considered safe only during fine weather or with the wind from the land. The anchorage usually selected during the fine season, from November to Juno, is immediately southward of the point, with the Pan do Azucar bearing about H.W. i W., or Aves islet S.W. The vessel will here be at about a mile from the beach, in 5:] to 0.^ fathoms on fine muddy sand, and in a posi- tion to comm.unicate freely with tlie village. When the French ship BriUiante anchored here in 1852, her bearings were, the church, N. 15° W. ; lighthouse, N. 18° W.; custom-house, N. 27" W. ; Pan de A/.ucar, S. 52" W. ; and Aves islet, S. 43° W. ; — at a liuleeas*^-.,ard from this, tli.; ground was toughor, consisting of mud upon sand, and therefore better for holding ; — from this last position the bearings were, the lighthouse N. 28° W., anil the custom- house N. 3!)° W. In winter it is necessaiy to anchor further out than as indicated in the preceding paragraph, on account of tlio incouvenienci; occasioned by the heavy I'ollers sent in from the south-WH^stward, which tend t(. carry the vessel on shore. The posit on recommended is in 5.\ to O.V fa'^houis, mud over sand, with the custom-house bearing N.W. by N., or the lighthoase N.N.W., and the Pan de Azucar about W.S.W.-- It shoulii be remarked that the soundings whic'i in the passage from the >Jigretas islets to the anchorage decreases giadiiaily from 20 and 17 fathoms, to 4.J fathoms on the bank bounding the anchorage, increase again towards the eastern coast to 10 and 9 fathoms. Tu the immediate vicinity of Calderas blutt", the depth is 15 to 12 fathoms. When at anchor it is recommended to moor S.E. and N.W. The holding ground is not good, f>.nd the anchors are liable to be fouled by the flux and reflux of the sea, and by the moving of the vessel during the sea and land breezes. sti tr. a! nil tb. wi ex as Mr. Hull, R.N., H.M.8. Tlavatw, 1S59, says "the lij^ht at Punta Arenas is plainly visible iioutbwiiid of the Sail rock. 2., uot l''ii ['^n(^ it enstwiud of N.N.W. veBSols will be clear of all tlimger till tlv anchorage be reac'-f.i. V'oeame to in 6 fathoms, with the light- house beariuj,' N.N.W. J W., distant 6 mik> Both ebb and flood set strongly over the Punta Arenas bank". Iiii lai en til ot GULF OF NICOYA. 47 It is high water op the days of full aud chauge of the moon at 8h. 10m. The tide rises about 10 feet. Water for shipping is obtrined at the river Baranca, 7 miles eastward from t'le aucliorage. The river ^.i • bo rcoognisod by a largo yellow spot, 'vhich Ja left to starboard when cuteriiig. The bar can be crossed only at half flood, or a little before half ebb. The best water is obtained at about a mile from the entranee. Only boats can ascend the ri\- r, and the channel is very tortuous. The vessel should be anchored at about l.V milen from the river, in 6^ fathoms. Abundance of fresh provisions can bo obtained at Puuta Arenas, but some difficulty may be experienced 'n obtaining caille. ]Veiil cDdst of the (iiilf. — Cape Blanco, the west extreme of the gulf of Nicoya, is of moderate height and covered with trees, even t/i th* beach. The laud, of which it is the southern termination, is sutticl.-ntly high t^' be visible from the distance of about 25 miles, especially when bearing about N.N.W. At a considerable offing it somewhat resembles an island, but a nearer approach reveals some white spots which help to distingnis'i the cape from the back laud. At about a mile southward from it is an islet of whitish colour, without verdure ; this, viewed from a distance, a]ij)arently forms part of the main land. The islet is surrounded by a rocky ledge, which dvies at low tide, and has deep water of 10 to !)(> fathoms immediately suutliwacd of it; between it aud the shore the deptli is 1.^ to fathoms. It is only when the cape bears East and southward of East that the point wliich actinilly terminates it can be distinguished. It is much lower tliau the land in its immediate vicinity, and advances seaward as an island, falling at last alniptly to the water. A needle shaped rock of sh'iider form can then be perceived at a little southward of the islet. The west side of the gulf from cape lilaiico to the i.siets opposite Punta Arenas, is believed to be clear of any sunken dangers. It may be approached as near as li miles ; closer than that would he imprudent. From cape Blanco, the western side of the gulf trends 11 miles to the N.E. by N., and is free from outlying dangers, except that at about 2.1 miles from the cape, a ledge of rocks, partly ahov^ and j)urtly under water runs 1 mile oil' the shore, aud has deep water of 17 fathoms close to its outer edge. At the end of this distance, 11 miles, the coast bends a little inwards, forming a small bay. named Balleua, where arc soundingH of IR and 9 fathoms, shoaling gradually towards its head, which . low land covered with matigroves. Tho north side of Ballena bay, Balhn.i head, is of moderate height, aud steep, having 14 fatlioms at a short distance from it. Hence, the coast trends N.E. ^ N., about 8 miles to the Nigretas islands, and there are, at about midway, two islands, separ.ited from the shore by a narrow channel navigable by boats, named Jasper and Alcatra/., of whicii the fornicr m the easternmost. The Nigretas are two islands pretty close to each other, which run off 2'S miles from the coast ; from the eastern one a ledge of rocks extends a | of a mile eastward, aud has near its extremity a large rock known as the Sail I'ock. From the Nigretas islands the coast trends to the N.N.W., G^^ miles, and has several islands oil" it, l3-.ig more or less near the thore; of these, the largest, about 2 miles westward of Nigretas islands, is named Cedro, At tho end of this distance are tho islands Aves, Pan de Azncar, and HanLmas; these are surrounded by shoals to a short distance, but separated from each other by soundings of 7 to 11 fathoms. f ■; 48 GULF OF NICOYA. The channel up the gulf northward of nan Lucas islands, between them and the bank extending from point Arenas, has considerable width and a depth of 18 to 27 fathoms, muddy bottom. Hence up the gulf, and failing a pilot, the eye and steady use of the load will be the best guides. Directions. — The outnancu to the gulf of Nicoya is so wide that no difficulty whatever is experienced in making it. It is usnal to steer for cape Blanco, keeping a little eastward of its meridian, and a*'terwards to direct the course into the gulf ; but it appears probable that some advantage would bo gained if the hind about port Herradura were made instead of the cape, as the effect of the westerly current would thereby be to some extent neutralised, — a mile or two would also be saved in the subsequent route to Punta Arenas. Having entered the gulf, keep along the eastern shore, as it is shallower than the opposite coast, and also because the effects of the ebb stre^" . ^-'hich southward of the Nigretas islands, flows south-westward, will not be ■. igly felt. The soundings, although great, arc not so deep, but that the ancin^i- can be let go in the event of being overtaken with a calm and a contrary current. The flood has occasionally considerable strength, and requires to be guarded against as its tendency is towards the Nigretas islands, in the vicinity of which the water is very deep ; close to the south side of the Si^.il rock the depth is 24 fathoms, deepening rapidly seaward to 3G fathoms. The course hence to Punta Arenas is direct and clear of any known sunken danger. The bank extending southward from the point has already been mentioned. The following instructions were written in 1843, and are added because they supply some useful hints. " The entrance of the gulf is safe ; the tides, however, at times run strongly, especially at the full and change of the moon. There is ebb and flood, but the former is of longer continuance and much stronger than the latter. To run in, keep eastward of the meridian of capo Blanco, which is the westerly part of the gulf ; and should you round the cape at the distance of from 1 to 3 miles, the course will be about N.E. ; or, if you should be about half-way between the cape and port Herradura, the eastern side of the gulf, it •rill be a little more northerly. Having sighted the Nigratas, which w'.ll show themselves on the port-bow, you will see a rocky point a little eastwacd of them, having the appearance of a vessel, and hence called the Ship rock, to which give a good berth, leaving it on the port hand. Haul then over to the starboard coast, that in the event of it falling calm and an ebb tide, you may anchor in shallow water ; whereas, if becalmed, with an ebb tide, when near the Ship rock, it would bo difficult to find anchorage, at least in not less tlian 20 to 80 fathoms ; and if unable to anchor, the ebb tide, which is very strong in this part of the gulf, would drive the vessel back again past capo Blanco. Steer along the f^tarboard coast, so as to pass the extreme points at a distance of from 2 ti 8 miles, and you will soon perceive the custom-house of Punta Arenas, towards which shape your course, and as soon as the villago is seen, bring the custom-house to bear N.N.W., or the middle of the village N. by W., whfu you will be in from 13 to 8 fathoms, and see in the distance the point named Punta Arenas. Further out there is a heavy breaking of the sea, occasioned by some sand-banks, which run out a great distance, and partly dry at low water. Westward of these banks are the islands of San Lucas ; eastward of which, between them and the banks, there is good anchorage, but in deep water. I CULEBIU BAY. 49 Merchant -vessels prefer lying closer in, on account of the proximity of the lauding-placo and stores. The course indicated above leads ships to this anchorage. The leading mark is the custom-houso on with the flag-staff of the port. The dopth is about 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, at from a ^ to 8 cables' lengths from the shore. The bunks above alluded to have a tendency to augment and change their position, and the safest course is to keep the custom-house a little open cast- ward of the flag-staff, keeping the lead constantly going ; and should the water shoal, to haul immediately to starboard. If desirous to como to anchor on heaving a ship to, at some 2 or 8 miles from the port, in order to obtain a pilot, it may safely be done, until one comes off and carries you to the place desired. The custom-house is easily known by its white painted roof ; but it should be carefully borne in mind that, from the rapid progress the sea appeared to bo making upon this spot, it may soon be removed and another built elsewhere * It has been stated that ships from southward should make cape Blanco, to obtain a fresh departiu'c for their intended port. Such is the course recom- mended by the writer of the foregoing directions, who considers it better than to make a direct course lor the volcano of Beija, because in winter the winds are light, variable, and attended with calms, and it is frequently the case that the high land is obscured by mists or haze, which renders navij^ation difficult even to those well acquainted with the coast. CULEBHA BAY. — From cape Blanco the coast trends north-westward and westward 88 miles to a point of land named Morro Hermoso, from which a reef extends a short distance ; afterwards it bends round to N.W. i N., 28 miles to point Velas, so named from its resemblance to a sail, off which are S' me rocks. It is recommended to give all this land a good berth, to avoid any sunken dangers there may be ; for it has not been closely examined. It is represented to be, in general, high land covered with trees, with occasionally seme sandy plains and small deep bays. From point Velas the coast trends 14 miles north-eastward, to point Gorda, the south-west extremity of Culebra bay.f • A despatch from H.M. Consul at Costa Rica, stalcH that the port of Punta Arenas ceased to be a free port on January 26th, 1861. Mercantik Marine Magazine, 18G1. + The const westward of cape Blanco as far as Culebra bay is very imperfectly represented in charts, as the doiination ih chiefly derived from a sketch obtaired during a running survey by Mr. T. A. Hul', R.N., in 1859. M. Lapclin of the French surveying vessel BrilUante in 1852, gives the name of Guionos to a pohit of land 30 miles W.N.W., from cape Blanco, whicli we ^u))| 'jse to be the Morro Hermoso of Mr. Hull's chart, although tin latter is there rej^v. scn.ed 8 miles further wosiward. M. Lapelin approached cape Blanco from westward and obser.-es "All the coast between points Gorda and Guiones is high and wooded aiul bordered with a strand of white sand iriterrupt;d hero and there by cliffs of reddish colour having rocks at their base over which the soa breaks. We coasted it at tlit distance of 2 to 3 miljs, and had soundings of 21 to 27 fathoms. Point Velas is unknown to the pilots. In the positions assigned to points Velas and Morro Hermoso we found neither point nor hill ; it was only in lat. 9' r)3', long. 88" 12', (?), that is to say, in a position 21 miles more south and 12 miles more w;-'sttlian that agsignf.itoiioint Velas, that we met with ageyish eolourod cliff surmounted by some trees, and having breakers at its Umv to the dinti:ai seaward of rt)ipnr< ntly Ij iniies. The sea broke upon some detaelied rocks, wliich lie in a considerable number southward of a wiiite sandy islet, ' 'I .. t ; 60 CULEBRA BAY. The coast between points Veins and Gorda is quite unknown. It is said to have some islands off it, the suternmost of which is named Brumel. Point Gorda, viewed from southward, ajipcars as a great rounded hill with a slight indentation in tlie middle of its summit ; it is higher than the country in its vicinity and its highest part is near the sea Port Oulehra, the north-eastern part of Culcbra bay, is an inlet running about 4 miles into the coast, in a north-easterly direction. At its entrance it is about a mile wide, with soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms, which depth decreases gradually towards the head of the bay, where there are 9 to G fathoms. On the south side of the entrance arc some islets, or rocks, at a short distance from the shore, called the South Viradores ; and on the nortli side are also two similar rocks, called the North Viradores. Captain Sir E. Belcher observed the north end of the bay to be in hit. 10° 3G' 55", long. 85" 33' 30". After mentioning various difficulties experienced in hndiug the port, he describes it in the following terms : — " At daylight on Sunday, the 25th of March, 1838, we were close off the port, but not being able to detect the Viradores, we wore, and intended running further south ; as Kellet had informed me that, in his search for me, he had been unable to find it. While in the act of wearing, a gleam of sunshine showed an island in-shore, Avhich induced me to make another attempt, and on reaching to windward we opened the heads and discovered the Viradores ; but even then could only ascertain from the mast-head that any recess of bay lay within. At noon we entered the heads, and at 3h. anchored in 8 fathoms in this splendid ^;o;Y, justly deserving that appellation. The port is certainly magnificent, and, from information derived from the natives, I learned that it is connected with Salinas, and thence on to Nicara- gua, Granada, &c. If any railway be contemplated in this (juarter, it ought to enter at the bay of Salinas, which would render these two ports important. When this portion of the country becomes settled, civilized, and more populous, I little doubt but Culebra will be bettor known, and probably the chief port of the state of Nicaragua. Water, fit for consumption, was not found at the beach, but may be obtained a short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If wells were dug, doubtless it would be found at the N.W. side, and the surrounding couuti-y is mountiiiuous. Another indication in favour of this is the thi(;kly wooded sides and summits, as well as bright green spots of vegetation throughout the bay. Brasil wood is very abundant. Mahogany and cedar weie observed near the beach, but, as people have been employed cutting the brasil, probably pll the mahogany and cedar, easily attainable, has been taken. " From port Culebra the coast trends fo the N.N.W. about 20 miles to cape Elena, northward of which are Elena and Salinas bays. All this shore is quite unknown and as usually represented in charts? is believed to be very badly % upon which ftre two rocks roHembliup sails ftt a diHtanco. Hiiviiip; from this point run aloug the coast about 20 miles in an E. by S. dircolinn, we discovered thut the la/** then trondori 8.E. to caj^e Blanco. \\\ this coast is ptcep and covi red wiib trees ; tliu bill* wens seldom wore lofty than these it the country bcliind the cape : M.d the sandy beach intcr- sperscd in many placi « In' rocky pointN wbicli formed little Blieltered bays, offered great facilities fi)r a liuidinH." { ELENA AND SALINAS BAYS. 61 delineated ; it is said to have some islets off it of considerablt size. Cape Elena is an elevated promontory of a triangular form, the ridge of the promon- tory being very irregular in outline, having a somewhat serrated aspect, while its northern niile is an unbroken steep escarpment without any indication of verdure. On the south side of this remarkable cape is a cluster of islands, named Murcielagos. Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., makes the following remarks on these islands : — " On rounding the point in view corresponding to point Catalina of Bauza, we discovered a cluster of eight islands. These I determined to examine, as they did not appear on the chart. They almost formed two distinct harbours ; the smaller islands forming a crescent by the south, one largo island protec- ting the east, and another of similar size forming the line of separation. Passing into the bay, we anchored in the inner or eastern harbour ; and hr.vlug Hxed the positions, surveyed it, and completed water at a very conve- nient position, where we anchored in 82 fathoms, with a hawser fixst to tho shore. We quitted for Salinas, after having satisfied ourselves that Culebra was not near us. The name of this remarkable cape, which we had mistaken for Catalina, is Elena, and tho cluster of islands is termed Murcielagos, or Bat islands. The springs are numerous, and there are tolerable rivulets ; but only that which we watered ut (between the centre point and the main) is safe to approach, by reason of tho constant surf. We fo\ind the gulf squalls, even in this sheltered position, come down the gullies with great force, and impede our work as well as endanger oui boats. In -IB hours, however, it was finished. The geological structure of the cape and islands is a schistose serpentine, containing balls of noble serpentine." ELENA BAY. — Elena bay is a large open bay having an extent from north to soutJi of about 4 miles ; at its head in its south-east corner, is a small inlet of 11 to 4 J fathoms, iian\ed Tomas bay, in which vessels miglit perhaps be able to ancnor and obtain protection from westerly winds, — but this is uncertain. Eiona bay is quite open to all winds from westwani. In the south part of it, at about a mile fi-om the shore, are some rocks above water, named Vagares ; and at the head of the bay oft" its north-east she ; is the small island, Juauilla, inside of Avhich is a depth of 7 to 11 fathoms The north shore has also an islet oft' it, named Pesponsa. The water in thisi bay is very deep, there being 30 fatlioras at 2 miles from its head ; whence it shoals gradually to Juanilla island. As there is good anchorage in Salinas bay vessels seldom enter Elena bay, SALINAS BAY uorthwai-d of Elena bay is separated from it by a bold headland, terminating in point Descartes. It is a little more than 3 miles in extent, with soundings of 12 fathoms at the entrance, which decrease gradually to 4^ and 2 fathoms at its head, on sand and mud. The northern shore ia high land : the soutliorn is comparatively low and flat. In tlic south part of the bay, at a short distance from the beach, are some rocks above and under water ; and in the centre of the bay is a little island, named Salinas, under shelter of which vessels anchor during winter and find protection from westerly winds. When bound into Salinas bay it is advisable to give a wide berth to point DtfHcartes, becausi reefs are said to run off from it, in a westerly direction, upwardu M' a mile. A good mark is tlie north peak of Orosi, 51H9 feet high, 1.; 2 52 SAN JUAN DEL SUR. Kf it ; ' : 1 I I I if I Bituated about 12 miles inland, bearing E. ? S. (S. 88° E.), aa this will lead to the bay. The depth on the south-east side of Salinas island is shallow for nearly J a mile. SAN JUAN DEL SUR. — From Salinas bay to port San Juan the coast trends 12^^ miles in a N.W. f^ W. directi'. n ; it has not been surveyed, and should have a wide berth given to it. Cape Nathan, in lat, 11° 9', has some rocks off it above water, and there are also some similar rocks at about midway between this point and San Juan ; all these rocks lie off the land at a considerable distance, and as there may be sunken dangers in their vicinity, it will be prudent to avoid their near neighbourhood. The bay of San Juan del Sur is of but limited extent, being only about ^ a mile across. It is situated in about lat. 11° 16', long. 85° 49', and is by no means easy to find, even when running down the coast, the little bays being all of similar character and appearance ; in approaching from seaward considerable assistance in discovering the port is afforded by the mountains Mombacho (4482 feet high). Ometepe (5050 feet), Madera (4190 feet), Orosi (5199 feet), and Miravalles (4700 feet). Mombacho, in lat. 11° 48}', long. 85° 54 i', bears a strong resemblance to the volcano San Salvador, (in lat. 18° 49', long. 89° 10'), but is not sufficiently lofty to be seen from all directions by an observer at only a few miles from the land. The pointed summit of Ometepe, in lat. 11° 82', long. 85° 84', and the large saddle shaped summit of Madera, in lat. 11° 27 , long. 85° 27V> can be seen in clear weather above the hills between them and the coast. The volcano Orosi, in lat. 10° 59', long. 85° 25', is frequently obscured by clouds ; when not so hidden it will be recognised by its double pointed summit, which resembles the pointed roofs of two towers, connected by a vast ridge. Miravalles, in lat. 10° 89' 40 ", longitude about 85°, can also be seen from almost all directions seaward. From San Juan, thi summit of Ometepe bears N.E. by N., and that of Madera N.E. ^ E. This little bay was selected by Mr. Bailey, who was employed by the government of Nicaragua to make a survey of this pai-t of the country, as the point where the railway or canal from the lake of Nicaragua, projected at that time, 1888, should communicate with the Pacific. High land surrounds it on every side, excepting towards the S.S.W. and W. by S. quarters, in which directions it is open to the ocean. At its head the beach is low and sandy, and on each side the land juts out towards the sea, forming promontories of 400 to 500 feet high. The entrance from the sea is clear, with a depth of water of 9, 8, 7, and 6 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 8 fathoms at the distance of 800 yards from the beach. In every part there is moderately good anchorage, generally on a muddy bottom; and the rise of tide is from 10 to 14 feet. The prevailing winds on this part of the coast are North and N.E., which blow occasionally with considerable violence ; and when such is the case, vessels may sometimes experience some difiiculty in making the port. Fresh water can be obtained at a short distance from the beach. Fish is abundant, but nothing else, except firev;ood, is to be had ; the neighbouring lands at , present (^1888) being in a state of nature, without inhabitants or habitations; nor is there either village or towji nearer than that of Niciu-agua, at a distance of 7 or H leagues. There are a few cattle about. At the distance of less than a mile from the port of San Juan, there is another port named Nacascolo, which is of nearly the same size and figure ; GULF OF THE PAPAGAYOS. 58 it and, as tlio land between them is low and nearly level, tlicy might bo united by a cut, where it thought necessary. As these places are ho nearly adjacent, they could, probably, both be usefully occupied, one as an entrance to, the other as an exit from, the proposed canal.* M do Lapelin, 1852, does not write favourably of the bay of San Juan. " It is usual to anchor outside the port in 8J to 11 fathoms, nearer the south than the north side of the bay, and always close to a little bed of rocks which reduces the breadth of the entrance. The bottom, consisting of sand and broken shells, is a very indifferent holding ground against the violence of north-east squalls, and its shai-p declivity towards the sea still further increases the difficulty of the anchor retaining its hold ; this declivity is, however, of some advantage during the prevalence of West and S.W. winds, which some- times in winter blow with considerable violence. At this outer anchorage, with on-shore winds, the loss of a vessel is unknown, although instances have occurred of vessels dragging their anchors. The Brilliante was anchored in 12 fathoms, sand and broken shells, with the flagstaff of Nicaragua bearing N. 82° E. ; south point of the bay S. 49" E. ; north point of the bay N. 41° E. ; and the volcano of Oiosi S. 64° E. We were a little too far from the south point, it would have been better to have brought the flagstaff some degrees more to the north. From this anchorage it took our boats 20 minutes to get to the shore ; when the squalls were strong they sought shelter of the south point and found it to be of considerable advantage. The port consists of a little bay open to all winds from seaward. The bottom, of the same description as the exterior anchorage, does not hold better, and as the anchoring ground is very limited in extent, it will bo prudent not to enter the bay but to remain outside. Except perhaps in winter, small vessels may, however, obtnin shelter behind the rocks of the north point. It is not difficult to effect a landing, as boats gi'ound at some little distance from the beach and the 3urf is not veiy heavy. Water is obtained from a well, and is of indifferent quality ; it is small in quantity and not easily got. With the exception of fresh provisions at an extravagant price, we could obtain no supplies." Gulf of the Papagayos. — Th(i portion of coast described in the preceding paragraphs, from port Culebra to the bay of San Juan del Sur, or perhaps as far as cape Desolado in longitude about 86' 135', is known as the gulf of the Papagayos ; these are violent winds, which blow with such considerable strength as fi'equently to cause the loss of spars and rigging. They commence about the meridian of Leon, long. 86° 50', and when approaching from westward, are first felt off cape Desolado, about 6 miles eastward of Eealejo. They decrease about sunset, and attain their greatest force about nine or ten o'clock in the morning. Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., says of this wind or breeze, that its limits may be considered to be included in a line drawn from cape Desolado to point Velas ; and it is rather a curious phenomenon, that its strength seldom ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer a curve at a distance of 15 to 20 miles from the land. * The governmeut of Nicara.-^iia decreed in about the year 1840, the erection of houses ftud the buildings necessary for making San Juan bay a port of cominerco, but in 18.52 there were only a few wooden buildings pompously called hotels. il < il I 1. li ast the ised has, howovcr, a reef oxtoiiding olF irom the const ab;)iit IJ miles iu Int. 11" 17', or about IG miles soiith-oastward from capo Desolado. M. do Lapoliu describes this coast in tiio following maimer, sailing