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of'
Brtthth Cotumbia

t4EVKX}MBE
OOtUCTION

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305

NOTICRS RESPECTING THE HOTANY OK CER-
TAIN COUNTRIES VISITED BY THE RUS-
SIAN VOYAGE or DISCOVERY UNDER THE
COMMAND OF CAPT. KOTZEBUE. By An.

DE ChAMISSO.

[ Transiiikd from tlw. Gcrinan Edition of the Voyage.']

THE PIIILIIMMNE l.sLKS.

Thk henutiful woods which clotlic the inoiintaiiis and valleys
oi' t\u"ni ishuuls with the most luxuriant j^reen, descend also
to the vciy brink of the sea, in groves ol' Mamjk Trci s {Rhizo-
fi/iorn), and some other species. The transitory <rlnnce which
we were enabled to gain of these forests iVom tlie public route,
and tlie short distance to which we penetrated their recesses,
are insuflicient to enable us to describe them jiroperly. Fig
'J'nrs appeared to be llie prevailing kind of wood: some species
snpjiorting tiiemselves as strong trees by their singularly
interwoven stems and running roots, by whicn they clasp the
rocks and twine over them. Other plants, of very slender
stalks, raise themselves to an astonishing height, and while
their leafy summits are lost above llie leaty roof of the grove,
tlieir sinijular fruit is seen bnrstinir from the lower part of
their trunks. Some species retain a frutescent habit, while
otiiers climb. We missed in the woods the beautiful forms
of the Avacin Trees, with their variously pinnated leaves; but
nuincrt)us other genera of Leguminous Plants here exhibit
tlieir peculiar characteristics. The Ferns, (]•, riic.darly the
arborescent ones,) the Climbers, the Orchiileu', \-'iicli, in
I3ra/il, form almost self-supported gardens in the air. lightly
attached to the sujnmits of the trees, are here <.itl>cr entirely
wanting, as the Cacti and Hromrliacecr, or appeal in very
diminished numbers. The character which Nature wears is
of a nuich tamer kind. '"he species of Palm are more
numerous than in St. Catherine's, many of them are but
inconspicuous, and the slender prostrate liotamj is indeed the
most wonderful of thcin nil, AnioM<;-t the Aroidoa- is the

i;']c

23rn^^v

806

Pothos scandens, wliosc joiiili^d jfrassy stems and narrow
foliage are seen creeping u|) tlic trunks of trees.

The graceful liamhoo Cane grows abundantly on the banks
of brooks, where its thickly c'ustered stems arc often waved
by the wind, which causes these hollow reeds to emit a great
variety of agreeable sounds. This plant attains its extreme
height in the short course ol" one rainy season; during
the following years it becomes woody, and shoots out lateral
stems, but without any increase of size. 'I'lie young sprouts
are eaten like asparagus. There are several species described
by Loureiro as natives of this place, but not having seen their
inflorescence, we could not ascertain this point.

The plains consist alternately of woods and savannahs; but
nothing can be poorer than the vegetation of the latter;
consisting chiefly of two species of grass, which grow about
eight feet high, and probably ripen their seeds in autumn.
There are a very few dwarf plants, mostly of the leguminous
tribes, and these grow under the shade of an arborescent
species of lianhiiiiu whicli appears singly at considerable
intervals. These savannahs are often set on (ire, both to
prepare them for cultivation, and that they may produce
younger vegetation lor the cattle.

A particular species of Miisn [Bnnuna or Pisaii;/), ol
which the fruit is not esculent, is cultivated for the sake of its
fibrous stem, and considered preferable to many others.
The filaments (being the long vessels of its peduncle) extend
the whole length of the stem, which is generally about eight
feet; and they are of various degrees of fineness, according
to their outer or inner situation. Thus the same plant
aflbrds the fibres of which are made the excellent anchor
cables, almost exclusively employed by the .Spanish vessels
here, and that more delicate flax which is used in the manu-
facture of the fine striped cloths of which the cleanly people
of these islanils make very elegant shirts.

Another I'afiii grows here, {Palmn dc Cabcllo nraro :) it
yields a strong, black, coarse fibre, nmch esteemed for ropes
and cables, and far preiirable to what is obtained from the
Rofniiff, which, though employed by the Chinese ami many

•AOl

row

Jiks

reat
pine

hug

of the islaiuleis of the Pacilic Ocean, is considered as of little
value, and not to be depended upon. Tiiis I'alw 'Da, on
tlie contrary, is much cultivated, anil, with the liaitilnM) and
liotuiuj, constitutes one of the most useful plants of this part
of the world.

THE MARIANNE ISLANDS.— OUA.IA. ^

This island is well wooded, its Flora seems rich, and the
vegetation luxuriant. Forests clothe its steep descents to the
sea shore, and in several sheltered spots the Manyb' Treen
{llliizopliora) actually dip their pendent boughs in the flood.
Nothing can exceeil the uelicions perfume which was wafted
to us across the waters, while we were sailing about in
search of an anchorage. The Orange Trees grow wild, as
do many other kinds of fruit trees, memorials of a once
floinishing cultivation. Several species of plants formerly
introduced here, now vie in luxuriance with the indigenous
inhabitants of the soil; such as the \w'\c\fAy Limonkt trijuliata,
and the Jiidiijo Shriih [Iiidigofern tinctorut), the use of which
even is now unknown. The liremlfrnit, C'ocon, and Pisaiiy
{Banana), are most abundant; the Mango {Mangijira indiva)
grows well where it was jjlantcd, but does not become
naturalized. Of the various species of plants which prevail
on the continent of Asia and the islands of the Pacific Ocean,
we only found the liarringtonia spcciosa ami Casnarina
e(juisetijhlia. We wholly missed the forms of plants so
characteristic to New Holland, the Protean, Ejxicridea,
Myrtles, and simple-leaved Acacias, On the other hand, we
found most of those that jrovv at Radack, many of whicl"
again were wanting at Li'i^on ; such as the Tacca pinnatifida,
wliich, though a native ol" Cochin China and cultivated, does
not ap})ear at Manilla. Two species of Pandamis and many
kinds of Fig are natives of Ouaja.

RADACK, RALICK, REPITII-URUR, BOCillA.

The Flora of these islands is very scanty. On the range
of Radack we foimd but fifty-nine species, including those
that are cultivated. 'J'wenly-three of them, five being in

:,~ » r!''?g <-i

'ds

308

cultivation, we liad before seen at O-Wailii ; and twelve,
incliuling the Cocoa Tree, were collected at tlie Island
Ronian/ofT, where we gathered in all but nineteen species.
About twenty, again, we found at Guaja. Neither tlie
Orange nor Cabbage Palm, both of which have, on doubtful
testin)ony, been stated to grow on the Mulgravc Islands,
could we find; nor learn any thing with certainty about then).

We do not iiowever believe that the vegetation of lladack
is confined to the above-mentioned number of plants : but
rather think that both on this island itself", and the groupe of
which it forms a part, anil whicii we had not the opportunity
of thoroughly investigating, many individuals may have
escaped our search. Tiie southern islaiuls, in particular,
which we did not visit, (Arno, Meduro, and Mille,) which
have an older vegetation and much richer soil, are likely to
produce many species which are wanting to the more northern
and barren groupe. Vegetation appears on this chain of
islands to have commenced in the south, and followed the
course of the inhabitants, in n northerly direction.

Tiie most useful Palm found here is the common Pandaniis
QV Screw Pine of the South Seas, {tf'ob.) It grows wild in
liie most arid sands, where vegetation first commences, and
enriches the soil by its numerous decaying loaves, which it
throws oir in great nuni!<ers. In tin; moist lowlands of the
richer islands, it thrives eq lally well, and numerous varieties
of it are cultivated with care, being propagated by layers,
and their fruit much imjiroved by culture. All of these, if
increased by seetl, reassume the original characteristics of
the parent species, the Kruan. More than twenty varieties
are reckoned ; the dill'erence between them existing in the
various outward form of their fruit, or its compound nature,
or the number of se})arate kernels which it contains. The
male tree is always called Digar, the wild female, Ertian ;
each variety having a dillerent nan»e. Tiiat i)art of the iVuit
which is used for food by the people of lladack, is by the
natives of the Sandwich, Marcjuesas, and Friendly Islands,
employed as an odoriferous and golden-shining garland.
We nuiy hero remark that the genus Pniidanus particularly

retjuues
bolanislsl
no weigl
cxpressl)!
esculent [
lladack.

is compi
aromatiJ

300

Ive,
rtiul
ties.
Jtlic
Itf'ul
Us

L'll).

Ink

Jilt

of
hy

)°c(|iiires slrict exiiiniiiutiuii, tis tlic chiiracteis thiil iiiosl
l)otaiiisls Imvu used to discriiiiinate tlie various species are of
uo weight whatever. Lourciro, in Iiis ]-'hrn Coc/iiiwh.
expressly states that tlio fruit of I'. odoratissiiUHs is not
esculent; but it constitutes the chief food of the |)eo|)le of
Itadack. Each of the seeds of which this compound fruit
is composed, contains at the base where it is affixed, an
aromatic Juice. To obtain this, the fruit is first knocked to
pieces with a stone, and then being chewed, the fibres are
rejected from the mouth. The fruit is also baked in pits, as
in the South Seas; not so mucli for the sake of eating it in
this state, but that the Mogan may be prepared from it.
This is an aromatic dry confection, which is carefully stored
up for voyages. All the members of one or more families
are employed together in making the Mogan. When the
fruit lias been baked, its concreted juice is carefully scraped
out with the edge of a nmssel-shell, then spread on some
leaves over a gridiron and dried in the sun, cr by a gentle
fire. The thin cake thus formed, is closely rolled up, and
the roll ( 2atly wrapped and tied in the leaves of the tree.
The almoi.xl of this fruit is pleasant, but being difficult to get
out, it is often neglected. From the foliage of the Pandanus,
the women of these islands prepare all sorts of mats, some
to serve for their aprons, others with ornamented borders, and
the coarser and thicker kinds which form the sails of their
vessels, and are employed by them for bedding.

Next to the Vnnihinun, the Cocoa Tree {Ni) holds the
second rank. Not only is its nut valuable as affording good
oil, and forming a variety of utensils for domestic purposes,
in which they carry their food and drink, but the fibres that
surround the stem are employed for making cordage. The
Pandanus gives food, and the Cocoa Tree the materials for
iuivigation to these people. The manufacture of ropes is the
labour of the men, and the first of the natives may be seen thus
engaged. The fibres of tlie bark are cleansed and separated
by maceration in pits of fresh water, and then spun. The
wood of the old trees is reduced to powder, and formed into
a paste with the juice ot the unripe fruit: thus prepared and

310

dressed in one ot the sliells, il is baked over the fire. Tlie
cocoa-nut shells are the only vessels whicii these people possess
for carrying water; they are placed in longish wicker baskets
made on purpose, several being arrangcil side by siile, with
the eyes of the nut njjwards. The Cocoa Tree is planted
and propagated every where, both on tlic inhabited and
uninhabited islands; but in most of the young plantations,
the trees only bear fruit in the inhabited islands; where their
lofty crowns are seen waving high in the air. J'he Cocoa Tree
bears but very small nuts at lladack.

The liriatlfntit Tree {Ma) is not very connnon at lladack,
and is only planted in the wet and closely inhabited islands.
Old trees are however met with even on some of the poorer
ones. Its wood, as well as its fruit, is valuable; from it are
maile the keels of their boats; the other planks being chielly
formed of buoyant wood, joined together with cords of the
cocoa bark, and the interstices caulked with leaves of the
Pantlanus. The Breadfruit Tree likewise yields a gum
which is useful for diH'erent purposes. There arc many
varieties of this tree, as is generally the case with all cultivated
plants; those produced here do not vary much from tin;
parent species; their iVuit is small, and the scedii in it fre-
(|uently perfect.

An useful fibre is procured I'rom the rind of three dilferent
species of jjlants, which grow wild, the jirincipul being liom
a shrub of the Nettle family {Bocmeriaf'), called here the
Aromti, and only found on the best moist soils. The threail
which the Aroma alTords is white, extremely fine and strong.
The Alahat ( 'Triiimfetta prociimbens, Forst.) is a creeping ))lant
of the Tiliaceous kind; it is connnon, and, with the Cetsst/t/ia,
covers the driest sands. From its brown bark, the material
of the men's aprons is chiefly procured : they consist of stripes
of bark hanging loose, anil sewed to a girdle of matting. The
ornamental borders of the finer mats are also nuide of it.
The fine white fibrous bark of the Hibiscus popuhieus (Lo)
which we saw at Radack, but only on the groupe Aur, is
used in the same way. Hopes are manufactured of this bark
at the Sandwich Islands, and elsewhere.

311

Tlie

liossess
I'askots
I'l witli
jlaiitud
M and
Jatioiis,
tlidr
Vi Trre

fidack,

aiicls.

looix'i-

it aiu

A nourishing iluur is obtiiincii from tliu tulicroiis rods ut
Vacin iiiiiiuitijidd, wliicli grows hero plentifully; hul it does
not appear to be in general use.

The dillerent species (A'.lrum, A. iscultntuin, iiimrorhizon,
nnd saijitlijhliiun, as well as the linnana and the /l/iiza/ihora
(jijinnorhizd, are severally cultivated, here and there, ou the
various islands. The culture ol the Jioiiatia seemed to
commence at Kaban ; but it was only at Aur that we saw it
bearing fruit. The species o^ Annti iu)whcre meet here with
the deep boggy soil that best suits them; indeed there is
nothing growing spontaneously on these i>^lands which Ibrms
an essential part of the food of the population.

Hesides these jilants, there are connnonly cultivated about
their dwellings two of the rarest wild species, which are very
ornamental ; a Sidd and a Criniini, whose sweet-scented
lloweis, with tiiose of Giiittnrda sjHciosa, I'ol/ianKpriu incrmis,
iii.d at Aur the J.vord coccineu (?) are worn in pretty garlands
arounil the long coiled hair and in the ears of the poor
natives of lladack, wlio arc distinguished by their general taste
for elegant decorations and great fondness for perfumes.

The sea throws upon the reel's of lladack great trunks of /'/(■/
trees from more northerly countries, with the Palms and liam-
IxHfS of the torrid zone. It thus supplies the wood necessary
for navigation, while the iron found in the wrecks ol'Kuropa-an
vessels affords another retpiisite article. The only instruments
which they possess for working up the drift-wood are formed
of the valuable metal thus obtained. In confirmation of the
fact that much iron is thus procured, we saw a large piece of
timber lying on the strand, with the iron nails still remaining,
sticking in it, at a sheltered spot in Oldia, one of this groupe
of islands. From the same source the natives obtain another
treasure, a uselul kind of very hard stone, which is found in
tlie roots and hollows of trees cast up by the sea. Iron and
stone belong to the chieftains, to whom they are compelled
to deliver these articles for a trifling remuneration, under
pain of unishment.

The sea also wafts to these islands the fruits and seeds of
nuuiy trees, of which the greater part are not indigenous.

\^c\yj- \-)-\^S.

'M2

Most ol'tliein iipiKiir still to he in a state tor vegetation, anil
we linvc fre(|uently, wil'i many f,'oo(l wislies, connnitteil these
presents to tlie bosom ol 'lie eaitli. Anionjr tliem we louml
the fruit of that Pamlanu.' which only jri-ows in the western
countries, and seeds of iiur^lngtoiwi spcriosa, Aleurilrs
triloha, and otiier trees belonging to tiie general Flora of
Polynesia, and which we Iiave met with near the Marianne
Islands. The jfreater number of these seeds belony to the
arborescent t)r climbing Le-ruminous I'lants, which grow
plentifully everywhere between the tropics. Tiiosc of
Guilandina liui are very common among them ; but we
only saw the plant itself once, on one of the Leeward
Islands. We observed that such seeds as are deposited by
the waves on the reefs situated in tlie slieltered spots of
the island, seem to vegetate more freely, being more pro-
trctijd from the blasts, and finding a better soil than tliose
that are thrown up on other parts of the island. Among
the rejectamenta of the ocean are frc(juently seen round
Pumice-stones, with masses of closely tangled Ca.isi/tha,
similar to what the Zostern marina forms on some of our
coasts, and which are called in France, on the shores of the
Mediterannean, Pluttc de iiier.

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

A variety of useful Palms from the Philippines, among
them Pabua brara, Palma de Cahello mgro, &c., which, as
well as the j)lants of the Pelew Islands, are cultivated here,
give an idea of the richness of the Flora. Cap enjoys, with
Pelew, the jirivilege of an elevated situation ; among its
productions we find the Arccn Palm [Areca Catechu,) the
Bamlfou, and three kinds of trees which grow on the mountains,
from whose timber boats are built, for which purpose the
Breadfruit tree alone is employed on the lower islands. The
Aleurites triloba giows here also, and the Clore {CaryopliijUus
aromaticus); the latter is not, however, esteemed, for the fruit
is useless and bitter, and its whole appearance mean and
ugly. The Orange, the Sugar-Cane, and lastly the Curcuma,
all of which are produced at Ulea and the lower islands.

L-b

vbrive 111
on ibii ^'
many
partly ol
groupe.
and rid
to be ii
from t
their di
Maiij
hixuriii
islands
plants
Flora I

All
and est
chiefly
varietH
the hi!
people
which,
and tl
Isles,
spreai
succe<
Arum
but I
tbriv(
Tl
neitli
the
unpi
cons

t!,o
liert

313

llnivc liuic in llie yrciiltfut ahiiiidaiicu. Kudu ric<)fi;iiisiil
on (lie Sandwicli Island:), and under llie rcv\\, ut Iludack, in
many species of seeds that were drifted there, the natives
partly ot Cap, anil partly of the lower islands of tlu' (.'aroliiu'
gronpe. Ol all the southern islands, I'Vis has the best soil
and richest vej^etution. The linmlxM}. whose utility caused it
to l)e introduced there from Cap, succeeds very v/ell ; and
from the same source the other islunds procure many of
their desiderata.

Many species not fuuiul at lladack, and lio.i sting a more
luxuriant growth, are seen at Ulea an(' al! the southern
islands of the I'acific. Luis de Tones lias even carried
plants from Ulea to C»uaja, which \»ei'e stran^^ers to the
Mora of this high district.

All tlies(! islands are rich in lircndjv'iit trees, Ttannnas,
and esculent roots. The natives of llie lo^v grounds subsist
chiefly on the lircudfruit, of which several large -fruited
varieties are cultivated under different appellations; whilt; on
the liighcr lands, Itoots constitute the chief support of the
people; particularly those of the sweet I'otatoe [CdMOten*)
which, with seeds of other useful plants, were brought by Cayal
and three of his brothers, from the Bisayas or Philippine
Isles, where they arc indigenous, and whence they have
spread to other districts. According to Kadu, they do not
succeed r.t Ulea. In the Pelew Islands, many varieties of
Anim are cultivated, some of them attaining a great size;
but they arc almost confined to elevated situations, ami
thrive best at Feis.

The Pandanus grows on all the Carolines ; but its fruit is
neither eaten nor used for ornaments, and we saw none of
the improved varieties. The agriculture of Cap is (juite
unparalleled ; floating gardens of Arum being ingeniously
constructed on the waters, with wood and drift Bamhou,

* The Spaniards uall the sweet roots Camotes, having borrowed the name from
tlic PhilippinH Inlands. The Canwti: of the Tagales nnil liisayas was cultivated
here before the uunqiiest.

314

The Pisanij [Bannna) is liere cultivated, but more for the
sake of its fibres than fruit. Of the former, the women weave
or phiit elegant mat-like stuHs, or rather, perhaps, stulT-like
mats. A jtiecu ol'this fabric, when finished, is jfenerally the
shape of a Turkey shawl, one ell broad, and several ells long,
with black threads interwoven at each end, forming orna-
mental patterns, and the ends of these threads hanging loose
as a fringe. 'I'liese cloths are sometimes dyed with Turmeric,
{Cnrcuina.)

Another ))lant of the Mallow tribe yields a stringy bark,
which, in some of the islands, is similarly employed in weaving.

The Paper- Mulberry tree, and the bark cloths of O-Waihi
were iniknown to Kadu. Much of the trade of Ca}) consists
in a powder made from the rasped roots of tlie Curcuma : it is
a general fashion, from Tuch in the east to Pelli in the west,
to dye the skin with this powder; but this ))ractice does not
prevail in the groupe of islands situated to the south-west of
the Pelews, nor at the Mariannes. Tlie custom of preparing
.1 sweet syrup from the sap of the Cocoa Tree is only known at
Pelew; for drinking cava and using salt arealike unjjractised
in these islands.

(li

island, i
kind of
a Lt'P'ii
A thin

seen, p»"
margiuei
{lowers ;
the Con
by its si
of the

THE ISLE ROMANZOFF.

The Flora here is poor in the extreme ; we counted only
nineteen species of perfect plants, (one Feni, three Monocoti/-
ledones, and fifteen Dicotyledones) and we do not think that
many escaped our observation. The Crijptogamous plants, with
which, in higher latitudes, vegetation commences, ai)pear to be
wanting here. The Lichens are only seen on the older trunks
of trees, like a covering of dust; and the black powder which
sprinkles the stones, seems not of a vegetable nature. Even
a Moss and some Fungi which we found at Iladack, tlid not
appear at Romanzoff. The plants we saw were a Poli/porlium,
the Cocoa free, the Screto Pine [Panthmus), a Grass, Scwvola
Konigii, Tournefortia argentea, Lyihrum Pemphis, Gucttarda
speciosa, a Cassytha, an Fuphorhia, a Bocrhaavia, and an her-
baceous kind of Nettle; all these being plants which we had
found at Iladack ; and those which are wanting at the latter

315

1- the
weave
ff-like
y tlie
long,

I oina-
loose

V'leric,

isluiid, are two shrubby Ititbiaceouii species, ami aiiothei
kind of slirub; IL/iofropiniit prostnitiim, Portidacc.a o/rraceu,
a Lt'p'xiinin [acre /) ami a Ihichtura /

A thin veffctation, through wliich the ground is everywhere
seen, prevails liere, consisting of a few shrubs with entire-
margined, simple, mostly succulent leaves and colourless
flowers; these form a kind of thin brushwood, above which
the Cocoa Tree raises itself, while the PnudaniiH is conspicuous
by its singular form, entwined with the leafless, reddish stems
of the Cassytha.

THE SANDWICH ISLES.— THE JOHNSTONE ISLANDS. '^-•<-'''''^''' ^^ ' ' ^

The collections of plants which Archibald Mcnzios, the, o^l^lsTl^pi-
learned companion of Vancouver, formed in his diilercnt
expeditions to the heights of O-Wpihi and Alauwi, arc still,
with many other treasures, enshrined in the herbarium of
Sir Joseph Hanks : and although this venerable Nestor of
naturalists throws open his Gazoplijilitcium to all the learned
with the morst unconstrained liberality, yet no one has at
present undertaken to ni.ke us acquainted with the alpine
Flora of O-Waihi.

The vegetation of O-Waihi lias nothing in common with
the adjoining continent, the coast of California. The leafless
Ibrm of the Acacias, the genera Mctrosidcros, Pandaiuis,
Sanfahti/i, Ahiirites, Dracwna, Amomiim, Ciirciniia, and Tacra,
impi'ess on it the character of their natural affinities. The
families of the lluhiacccc, Apocyncfc, and Urticecc prevail; of
the latter many wild species are used for making various
kinds of bark-cloth*; and some arborescent milky Luhcliaccer.
are also found. The innnedi,-'*'" margin of the island
produces oiily a few kinds of g.ass and herbs. In the
interior, the Flora is rich ; but it will bear no comjiarison
with the luxuriant variety of Brazilian nature. Only low

• Tilt' I'Kjnr-Miilhirri/ {/liniissuiuliii pajii/ritirti) is ciiltivntrd in tlic Sandwich
Islancls, US in most of tliciso of tlie South Seas, for tlie niiinufnctiiri' of rloth.
Hut it is a niisi,'l<e to suppose tliat it is tlic only plant nsi'il for tliat purpotr.

31(i

ireos are tbuiul in tlie vallies; among llicni tlie Aleurites
triliiha, whose whitish foliage forms a singuhir kind of
brnsli arounil the base and tlic declivities of the nioinitaiiis.
Here and there, in the deep fissures of rocks, may be seen
astonishing groves of Bananas, which, growing thickly, stem
close-pressed to stem, cause a gloomy darkness to prevail
beneath their wide spread leaves. These plants, if grown
near tlie beach, scarcely attain a height of five feet, but in
such situations as the above, they often treble that stature.
The Acacias, from whose hollowed trunks the larjic canoes
of the Sandwich Islands are made, attain on these mountains
oidy to the size necessary lor that purpose, and there alone is
the Sandal-wood found, which is so nuich jirized in China;
while the ruler of these countries knows its value so well,
that he makes it the means of inflicting poverty ujion his
oppressed people, who are obliged to collect it, anil neglect
ilu! necessary art of cultivating the ground.

The Tarra-root [Arum isciikntiiin), after being boiletl, is
stamped into a tough pulp, and constitutes the princi})al food
of the people. O-Wahu is that one of the Sandwich Islands
which jn-oduces the greatest number of esculent plants, and
part of the Tarra used at O-^Vaihi is thence derived. The
culture of the vallies which i behind Ilanaruru is really
astonishing. Artificial irrigate ns enable the natives to
form, even upon the hills, large u '\tic plantations of Tarra,
which are at the same time emplc; ul as fish-pond? while
all kinds of useful plants grow on the banks which form
their borders. Many introduced plants are now cultivated
by some of the original inhabitants; but those of the people
who retain their old manners make little use of them.
Among these, the Tobacco may be considered as the prin-
cipal; and it is indeed a vegetable which the natives of all
parts of the globe have shown a readiness to employ.
Water- Melons, Melons, and other kinds of fruit have been
gladly adopted here. Besides the destructive car'a, a fer-
mented liquor is prepared from the Tca-Itoot {Dracena ter-
minalis); but the Sugar-Cane has never yet been employed
for that purpose.

TIIEl

317

KAMTSCHATKA.
THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS AND HEHRING'S STRAITS.

The cove of Awatsclia, lying between the same degrees of
latitude as Berlin and rianiburgh, and the haven of St. Peter
and St. Paul, in the interior, seem to be but little ex))o.sed to
the influence of sua winds. The arborescent Jh'rc/t grows here;
but stunted and very did'erent from the slender ele^^ant tree
which is so nuicli admired in the north of Europe, and par-
ticularly at Petersburgh. J'iiiiis Ciinbm, which on our Alps
grows at greater heights than /'. Abies, and forms the boun-
dary of the trees, Sorhiis Ai«ujKirki, Aliins inatmi, and some
JVillowti are seen, but they remain quite shrubby. Timber
may however be raised in the interior of the peninsida, where
the climate is milder than on the oast coast; and the seeds of
the Pi/iii.s Ceiiibra, which are eaten at the tables of Russians,
come from Siberia via Ocholtzk.

Grasses and Iierbaceous plants thrive luxuriantly, the soil
being rich and the sky milil. There are but few species of
vegetables, and these seem about ecjually distributed. In
shady spots grow Spireeu kamtschatica, Alliuiii ursiniim, Mai-
aiitlu mum cunadense, Uvuhtria ((iiijjb.rijolia, Trillium oboriilum,
&c. In the pastures are a J'tnifrum, Lilium luimtscliaticum.
Iris sibiricft, &c. On the hills, which are rocky, abound some
species of CapriJ'oliuiii, Spinea, liosn, the Atraijine alpina, and
other mountain plants, as Jihoihuktidrim It/imfschaficum, Ein-
jxirum ni(jrum, Trivntdlis curopicd, lAniueti bortnlis, Vuritus
sueciai, Suxifrdya; &c. Some kinds oi' Fcni, from the num-
ber of individual plants, form a considerable part of the
vegetation. L'rlira dioicii, which was probably introduced,
now seems to have established itself as a prevailing inhabitant
of the soil.

The peninsula of Alaska, and the ac'joining island, called. 4' /^S<i'(1'^:
Unimak, which is only separated from the continent by a
narrow strait, seem to have the same character of vegetation
as the main land, for trees are produced there, while Una-
laschka and the t)ther islands of this range are (juite bare
of them. A lew miserable Firs, originally brought from

PfTjiTi -ill Zg

318

Sitka niul planted at Uimlasclika, may still be seen, most of
tliom decayed, and the others s':arcely seem likely to live;
but the iilaiitation is yet young, and it is well known how ill
trees of this kind bear a removal.

As we have been thrice at Unalaschka, both in spring and
autumn, and have investigated its vegetable prt)ductions with
particular care, we shall make this island serve as a point of
comparison whereby to describe tlie character of tliose other
^ northerly situated countries at which we touched.
V ^'rl i^'Si*- 1 1 "Ti?. . At Unalaschka, under the same latitude as Lubeck, the
Willows scarcely grow higher than the luxuriant grass and
herbs of the moist grounds. As soon as we ascend the in-
ferior hills, a completely alpine vegetation appears; even on
the least elevated regions of the mountains are some Vaccinia,
resembling 1\ Mi/rtillxs, which scarcely rise above the
ground. Besides the brilliant verdure due to a moist at-
mosplierc, which here adorns the grass, and enlivens even
the summits of the rocks, the lustre of the fresh unsullied
snow, and of some social plants, bestow on this dreary
country a variety and beauty of luies which are (juite de-
lightful. Lupinus nnotkensis, Mimuln.i luteus (Pursli), gut-
tatiis (Willd. En. Suppl.), Epilohinm angiistifolium and lati-
foliiim, Ithododcmlron hanitschaticum, &c. are among the most
conspicuous. The fresh green of the turf even reminded us
of the valley of Ursera.

The vegetation here appears to have nothing farther in
common with that of St. Peter and St. Paul, than as respects
its alpine Flora and the coast plants of these northern shoies,
Besitles such s})ecies as are likewise found more north,
we have only the Liliinn /tamtschatioim, (except indeed the
variety seen at Unalaschka prove a distinct species,) and tht
Uvularia ampk.ri/bliti connnon to both places ; while, on the
contrary, we found more Kamtschatkan sjiecies of plants on
the American coast, north v)f Behriiig's Straits, which we
missed at Unalaschka. It is the Flora of the North- West
Const of America which descends to tlie base of the hills of
this island, wliere it unites with the Arctic Flora. As examples
of this, we may cite Ihibus spectahilis, Lupinna fioot/iensis,

319

'npi'ai'C' /V^i

lost of

live;

low ill

(which is also found, though dwarfish, on the lulls,) Epiluhium
lutenm, and Mimulns guttutus (Willd.*), Claytonia unulasck-
hcnsis (Fisch.), and sihirica {alsinoides? Pursh), may he also
reckoned hero. Sunguisorha vunudeusis, Lithusjnriniim an-
gustifoUiim, &c. belong to the common Flora of America.

Many species oi Grasses thrive in the low lands, with some
UmbellaUe, such as AiKjelica, Iliradenm, 8cc. A dozen C'driccs,
scarcely forming a larger proportion of the vegetation than
in the north of Germany ; some Scirpi and Eriophora accom-
pany them, with a few Jutici, in the j)ro})()rtion of about one to
two. The Orchidice constitute a groupe of some importance,
both because of the number of species and the beauty of the
individuals; they prevail both in the vallies and on the hills-
and we counted eleven kinds: among them a beautiful Ci/pri-
ptdium. Higher north, we did not observe a single plant of this
family. Of the Ferns we found about eight species; nearer to
the Pole there is but one Filir, and even of this we only saw
a solitary specimen. At Unaiaschka there are some Lycojto-
dia; in the more arctic regions but one. We found in the
lakes many water-plants ; Potamogetoii, Spargaiiiiiiii, Jianun-
cidiis aquatdis, &c. ; in the higher latitudes we observed only
the two species of Ilippuris, and the common CnlUtriclw.

Two other lianuncula, the Prmiella vulgaris, a species of
lihuianthiis, of Cineraria, AchiUaa, Plantago, and Geum, some
Itubiacea:, a Claytonia, the Menyantlies trifoliata, a Triglochin,
&c. belong, with the otlicr above-mentioned plants, to the
Flora of the vallies of Unaiaschka. We saw also a Jiartsia,
apparently diil'erent from the Jiartsia jxillida of more nor-
therly situations. To a beautiiul plant, which constitutes a new
and dist.net genus, we gave the appellation of lloinanznffia
unalaschhensis, in commemoration of the noble promoter of all
science in Russia. The genera lliinuw, Polygonum, Aconi-
tum, Tlialictrum, some Alsinece, the Iris sihirica. Geranium
pratense, Comarum pratense, and Montia fontana. are distri-
buted all over tiiese arctic regions.

'V'»nA7?x.>,y,-^j

• The seed of this species, uliicli Mas raised in tlie Uotauic Garden of Berlin,
is said to be brought from BailtHl.

Y 2

320

The Empdrum niynim, witli Ilelff horns fri/oliiis (Linn,),
tlie latter being an American plant which we did not see
again mure to the north, are ioinul njion most of the hills,
and indicate the alpine natm-e of the scenery. There are
also some species of Vacciiiiiim, and the connnon O.ri/coccos,
Arhnlus vipinus and L'va-ursi, with a white-flowered Mcn-
zicsifi, (])rol)al)ly a variety of Erica ccrriikn,) llhododnulron
kamtscluiticHiii, Azalea procuiiilnns, Aiulruiucila /i/cojxK/ioides,
(which, nearer to the Pole, yields to ./. htragomi,) the alpine
IVillowft, Silcne acanlis, Silihaldia jjroriiiii/iciis, Cormis si/crica,
2'riintalis curopao, I.innaa Imridlis, Ormtliogalum stridluin*
Anthericum calynilatiini ( Linn., var. />urca/is), Kuiiiyia islaiidka,
a Gi/nuifoidra, ajiparentiy diil'erent from that one found higher
north, tan Sa.rlfrfiffcs, three species of Prdicidaris, some i^o-
tentilUe, two Gia, two Aiiriiioiics, three kinds of Primula., a
Popaver, a Drosira, a Pint/iiicii/a, two I'l/ro/tc, a Viola, a
Parnassia, a Pidiits, and an ArDitria. There was but one
alpine liamnwidiis, and three C>t:ntiane<p ; of these genera
there are more individuals in higher latitudes. Of the class
Si/iifjiencsia, we found Aster, Hitraciiim, Giiaphulium, Leon-
todon, and Artcitiisia ; this class prevails greatly as we ap-
proach the Pole, the genus Arkmisia in jiarticular, exhibit-
ing many individuals. On the other hand, Unalaschka
produces some aljiine species of the genera Campanula and
Veronica, which arc entirely wanting in the north. There
are some individuals of the order Crucifercc, scattered partly
in the hills and partly in the vallies. We did not find at
Unalaschka yllnus incana, Bitula nana, Tjeditm palustre, Dryas
octopclala, Diapcnsia lajtponica, lihodioln rosea, the genera
Spira;a, Astragalus, Allium, Myosotis, Corydalis, Vtdcriana,
Aretia, Androsacc, Dod<t;itlicon, Deljiliinium, or Oroljanche ;
all of which are natives of more northern latitudes.

The maritime Flora, which is unaltered in the arctic
regions, consists particularly ol' Elymus mollis, (Herb. Gorenk.
Trinius in Sprengel's En. 2. p. 72.) Arenaria peploides, Pisum

Tbern are ttvo varktus uf lliin plant, which may perhaps be distinct species.

321

.inn.),

H see

l.ills,

10 are

WOCfOS,

Men-
yulron
\oi(ks,
lilpine
yrica,
fuin,*
iilica,

vmritimum, with various appearances of Puliiumario maritima ^
(Wilkl.), lieing probably diU'erent species, llie I', jianijlora
(Piirsli), Cucldmriit ()(/irin(i/is, and .Iniiru iiiaritiitKi, wiiicli,
tliouirli liere very luxuriant and branched, in more nortliern
situations is only one-flowered. To this hst we may add
Potentilld aiisiritid. The sea ah)ng the coast and in the creeks
is rich in Alijw ; while the Funis csriikiitits (the Sea Kale of
the Russian inhabitants) is particularly observable among
many {figantic species of the genus.

At Unalaschka, the JMosscs and Lichens begin to assume
that predominant station which they hold in all the very cold
districts.

We took but a cursory view of the islands St. George and i>'.^iCDl*ijC
St. Paul, situated in nea Iv the same latitude as Ki<ra. It is ^

extraordinary liow mucii more frigid does Nature here show c^v T^Z ( i
herself than at Unalaschka. No sheltered vallies, no pro-
tected spots favour the vegetation of the j)lants of milder
climes; but a perfectly alpine growth prevails, both on the
hills and the beach. 'J'he high smnmits of the desolate rocks
are covered vvitii i)alij and black Lir/ifiis, while those places
which are irrigated with melted snow allbrd only Sphaipmui,
a few other Mosses, and some Carices. Tiiere are no springs
in the soil. The various arctic plants choose, according
to their nature, the rocky or the moory spots; and none
elevate themselves above the ground, to which they seem
closely })rcssed. A Lupine at the island St. George, and an
Achilhca at St. Piul, remind the observer of the productions
of Unalaschka; b>.t there are also several species which
are not even seen in the liighest parts of the latter island,
such as lianunculns Pnllasii and Gmelini, an Antlrosare, and a
Claytonia. \Vc found only one plant peculiar to these.^ , U^t' T F? L b'^

islands, a CycAfcaWa? which is plentiful and charncteristic. „ v/,.„ d
mi 1 • 1-1 111 , c T > L »■ fn/t<ir< "

Ihe alpmc or arctic rlora whicli here (at St. Lawrence) s\ »;; ) .i.^

adorns the loot ot the mountams, iloes not appear to entwine , ^ -, , j.c

their brows ; for when these are entirely free from snow, and * *^ » •

the water produced by the melted snow irrigates some brilliant .■- Ji^^

plants, the dry ridges and declivities of the masses of fallen v? leS's^^^ ^^

rocks are only scantily attired with gray and black Lichens. 'i A"

322

The mountains of these dreary climes being unprotected
by any covering of vegetation, soon decompose. The frost
bursts the rocks, every suiinntr's gentle warmth causing fresh
ruins, and so destruction hastens towards its completion.
Wherever the abundance of SplKKjmun has not produced a
boggy turf in the deeply watered jilaces, the ground presents
only heaps of broken rocks.

The asjiect of Nature at the Cove of St. Lawrence is most
wintry ; the scanty herbage barely covering the black soil,
while the dwarfish IVilhics do not reach to one's knee. The
Andromeda po/iJI)/ia which we found there, tlid not exceetl
two or three inciies in height, and was one-flowered. Among
the vegetables of this Cove, we found a Dtlphiniinn, a l)o-
dccatheo/i, an Antia, and we saw there also tiie greatest num-
ber of species belonging to those truly arctic genera, Gcn-
tianii, Siuifnic/a, Astragalus, Artemisia, Draha, Ranunculus,
and Claiitimid, inanv of these beinif undescribed.

The Island of St. Lawrence, situated two degrees more to
the south, does not differ in vegetation from the Cove of the
same name. The Andromeda tetragona, JJrgas ortopetala,
Diapensia lappoiiica, with some alpine kinds of Afgosotis, and
a Gymnandra, clearly indicate the prevailing character of its
flowers. We observed, when first arriving on this island,
where the vegetation is j)urely arctic, that we gathered in a
few minutes more plants in bloom, than we had observed
during many weeks en that range of islands comprising Ra-
dack, &.C. and situated between the tropics.

Farther northwards, on the rocky island in the interior of
Kotzebue's Sound, grew the Azalea procnmbens, as at Una-
laschka and the Cove and Isle of St. Lawrence; with the
alpine Willows, Corvus sueciea, Linnaa borealis, some arctic
species of Ituhus, &c. The Kmpetrum nigrum and Ledum
jmlustre cover the moorland, with the Sphagnum, but the
Ledum does not here form the tall shrub which decorates the
turfy bogs of the north of Germany.

The vegetation at the interior of Kotzebue's Sound is
much more luxuriant than within St. Lawrence's Cove. The
IVillows are taller, the grasses grow stronger, al' the plants

323

3tecte(l
|o frost
K /iosh

't-'tiori.
ficed a
resents

s most
soij,
The
xceed
tnong
fi 7)0-
imiii-
Cien-
culus,

nrc more utout uiid succulent, wliile the {greater number of
species ci nuiion to the American coast tlian appear in St. Law-
rence's Cove, indicate a more tem|)erate climate. On tlie
ishnul of that name, we galliered Alnm inraiia, as a very dimi-
nutive shrub, and Spircra chdinmlrifulix, botii of wiiicli we had
remarked at Kamtschatka, and not on the American Island
Unalaschka; and which a sterner atinosj)here seems to have
driven from St. Lawrence's Cove. An Orohanrhe and a
Phif/iiictifd are among the plants of this island. Tiie Ciner-
aria palustris grows with remarkable luxuriance in the well
watered slopes formed at the base of the mounds of ice ; while
Betiila nana is seen even on the very shores. The plain
country of this island is free from snow throughout the
summer.

[TAB. LXIII. LXIV. LXV. LXVI. LXVII.]

ON THE PLANTS OF THE NATURAL ORDER
UMBELLIFER.E,

Detected by Dr. Gillies in the extra tropical parts of
South America, . li i

The species of this genus, found by Dr. Gillies in South
America, and chiefly in the Cordilleras, both on their eastern
and western sides, are not numerous, and their illustration
has been greatly facilitated by the recent labours of Hoff-
man, Sprengel, and more es|)ecially of Koch and De Can-
doUe. The country in (juestion seems to be, more par-
ticularly, the district of the Mulinea, a subtribe of De Can-
dolle, of which the genera are less satisfactorily determined
than tliose of the other groupes of the order; and to me it
appears that Fragosa, Ruiz et Pav. and Pcctnphijtum of
Kunth, should be removed from the Hifdrocotylece, where
De Candolle has placed them, and arranged with the Mu-
linecc.