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PRINTERS. 15, FRITH.STRKEt7sOH(». I' / * PREFACE Five days after the action of Ayetta, in prosecution of my original intention, and with the special leave of the Lieut. -General, I continued my route to England, having, most fortunately, not been impeded by several wounds received in that truly brilliant affair. — Since my arrival in London, I have seen Captain Henningson's ** Year with Zumalacarregui " "which, in the literary acceptation of the term, is unquestionably an excellent book — Captain Henningson's pages are, however, so distorted by party spirit, particularly where, in imitation of his clique. \ VI PREFACE. ragu- lie so lavishly abuses the English muffins," as he is most courteously pleased to term General Evans, and his troops ; that it is impossible to repress a smile of mingled pity and contempt — pity for the bitter partizanship which could conceive the epithet — contempt for the man who could, not excitedly utter, but deliberately write it — Captain Henningson is however, I believe, a very young man, as certain of his critiques prove, or he would have discrimination enough to perceive that such wholesale abuse as he thinks proper to indulge in, comes wdth a very bad grace from a German, from whom might be expected, at least, the good taste of abstai'iing from invidious comment on the subjects of a country, at this moment affording him an asylum and a home ; par- ticularly on men who hold a rank in the British Army, to which he, Captain Henning- son, cannot have the most vemoie pretention. rUKl'ACK. Vll 'I'lie fact of the " Year with Zuinalacar- rr^iii ' having heen written, as it evidently has been, after the Author's return from Ser- vice, more than ever confirms me in the' determination to give my notes, composed amid the toil of duty, unaltered, and un- embellished to the world. — It will be seen that mine are the facts of daily observation, — not got up at the eleventh hour for a par- ticular and interested purpose, but written under the influence of surrounding circum- stances, as they severally occurred — In fur- therance of this end, as will also be seen, I have even retained matter, which, in any other case, might be deemed superfluous ; and no stronger proof can be given than in the hicreasing admiration, (romantic it may appear to some), with which I have described the country, as mv advance into it, each succeeding day, made me more acquainted with its sublimity. *. I'll Vlll PREFACE. What errors may occur in the course of this volume, must be considered as purely typographical, and the result of my return to San Sebastian, at the moment when my MSS. is consigned into the Printer's hands. Had the publication been of a different character, and not with a specific and present object in view — that of the early disabuse of the public mind, in regard to certain im- pressions erroneously entertained of the British Legion, I should have deferred giving any notes to the world, until a more favorable opportunity occurred. — As it is, it may be hoped the public, generally, will make every due allowance for the imperfections of a work, submitted to press during my absence — although I can scarcely expect the mere literary critic will consider my plea an extenu- ation. I had intended giving some further personal details of the battle of Ayetta — details which PllEFACK. ix I have reason to believe will not be without interest to the Public : but these I shall re- serve for a future volume. " THE AUTHOR. " London, June 'Jt/t, 1836. n CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Page Arrival at San Sebastian — Description of its grandeur— Punish- ment of a soldier for mutiny — Hard duty of officers— Dinner given by the Ist regiment — Ball to the inhabitants — ^Traitors in San Sebastian — Affair of Hernani — Removal to Portagalette — Attack on Lord John Hay's boats — Infamous quarters — Affair of Portagalette — March to Bilbao — ^Affur of the Puenta Nueva — Cariist prisoner — Position of the enemy 1 CHAPTER II. Withdrawal of the Carlist forces — Bilbaon manners and amuse- ments — Removal of my regiment to St. Mames — Remarks of the Author on the decline of monasteries — Detached to Soroza — Wretchedness of quarters — Return to St. Mames — Melan- choly accident at Soroza — Station of the English and French men-of-war — Touching anecdote* of a Carlist 38 \. Xll CONTENTS. ' , CHAPTER III. 4. March from Bilbao — Leave Portaga'.ette for Caatro — Romantic character of the march described — Legion fired upon by ban- ditti — Route from Caatro to Limpias — Plunder committed by part of the Legion — Punishment by the Lieutenant-General, and his remarks thereon — Mnrch to Villa Sante over LosTornos • — Grandeur of the country — March to Medina del Pomar — Country becomes less mountainous — Reach Otia — Its pass des- cribed — Supper of the Staff at the rich monastery of Ofia — Arrive at Brivieska — Remarks of the Author upon the nature and conduct of the march Page 56 CHAPTER IV. Arrival of Cordova ;,o meet the Lieutenant-General — Miserable appearance of Brivieska — Wretchedness of the inhabitants con- trasted with the fine appearance of the Biscayans and Guipis- coans — Severe fall of snow and extreme cold in the middle of November — Reported danger of the Lieutenant-General's bag- gage — A description of the Cur^ Merino— Pursuit of him by a Spanish detachment of cavalry — Visit to Burgos — Rude recep- tion by the Governor — Visit the cathedral — Gorgeous beauty of its sculpture — Return to Brivieska — Victory gained by Cordova at Estella — Author's laments upon the mode of conduct of the war — Priest shot at Burgos for holding correspondence with the enemy — Mode of burial — Reported danger of the Lieut.- General's baggage from attack by Merino refuted 94 CHAPTER V. Dismissal ef officers from the Legion — March to Vitoria— Ordered to San Domingo — Paul Carganada, ray French servant — Hia CONTENTS. xm Page bravery in a severe affair against Villa Real — Route from San Domingo to Miranda, through the romantic pass of Pancorbo — Paul's downfall — Council of Vitoria — Indifferent reception by the inhabitants — Review of the Legion by Cordova — Ball given by the authorities — Description of Cordova— Governor of Bur- gos dismissed for his rude conduct — Cordova and the Lieut.- General go to Burgos — Massacre of the Chapelgorris by Espar- tero 119 CHAPTER VI. Flag of truce from the enemy — Christmas-day — A turkey anec- dote — Repoit of the state of San Sebastian — Anecdotes of Zumalacarregui— Arrival of Count Almadovar, the Minister at War — Description of Vitoria — Promise of the Queen- Regent to visit the Legion in summer — Advance of the Legion from Vitoria — Spirited conduct of the Staff — Unhealthy state of Vitoria — Arrival of the French Legion — Critical position of the Carlists — Affair of Arlaban — Murder of Mr. Street, of the Com- missariat — Increasing sickness at Vitoria — Burial of one of Cordova's aids-de-camp — Forward movement of the combined troops upon the castle of Guabarra— Fails to draw the enemy into action — A Carlist colonel killed by the Queen's cavalry, in revenge for the murder of Mr. Street — True position of the British Legion in the affair of the 17th — Legion !eft unpro- tected against the whole Carlist force on the heights of Zoazo — General Evans's withdrawal of his forces across the Zadora, where a final position is taken up — Anecdote 143 CHAPTER VII. A long hiatus in the Journal occasioned by Typhus — Ravages of this disease among the troops — Inhumanity of the inhabitants XIV CONTENTS. .-.. . i Page of Vitoria — Billeting — The Emperor Jahangueiar'a laws there- upon — Insufficiency of supplies to the sick by the Spanish ' authorities — Changes in the Legion — Breaking up of the 2nd and 5th regiments from excessive weakness of numbers — Changes in the Staff— The Londonderry hoax — Remarks there- upon — Sir John EUey's and Colonel Thompson's speech in the House of Commons — Bitterness of the " Morning Herald " against the Queen's cause — Its correspondent supposed to be a hired agent of Don Carlos— The character of the " Isle O'Dogians " vindicated — Return of General M'Dougall from Madrid — Ob- ject of his mission . . . , 177 , CHAPTER VIII. Pitiable condition of the convalescents — Removal of head-quar- ters to Aranjues — Distribution of the [Legion — Defeat of the Carlists by Espartero's division at Orduna — His real force — Particulars of Espartero's action — Gallant conduct of a Spanish corporal — Its reward — Important discovery of traitors in Vi- toria — Their trial and execution by the garrot in the Plaza — Attempt of Villa Real to save them 198 CHAPTER IX. Departure from Vitoria — Curious mode of conveyance — Break down of our vehicle between Miranda and Ona — Perform the remainder of the journey on foot — Mr. Wilkinson's letter in the " Morning Herald" — Brief comments thereoiv — Reach San- cillo through the beautiful pass of Balma-de-ceda — Reception by the padrona of the posada — Descent of a very high and ragged mountain on three wheels — Reach the pretty village of Ontenada — Meet my ex-servant, Paul Carganada, under very CONTENTS. XV SU8P.C.OU8 crcumstances-His great f«nilia,ity with . Spanish CO onel-Reach Santander- Expedition to San Sebastian fully s:n.i:i~ p""'' °' ** A"*°-I^isagreeable billeting a^ Santander-Reception by Commodo« Henry on board the L bella Secunda- Conduct of Lord John Hay-Arrival of the Lieutenant-General in advance of the Legion ordered to the coast-Author's remarks-Dinner given by the Lieut.-General at Santander-Departure of the Author for San Sebastian- Wattle of Ayetta Page 214 V { / (f- '^, 'jr. N S ^ ^ ^- ■ f ■^*- 1 1 . '1 I » » .'I JOURNAL OF THE MOVEMENTS OF THE BRITISH LEGION. M 1 1 > / .' I ■■» CHAPTER I. ARRIVAL AT SAN SEBASTIAN DB8CRIPTI0N OP ITS OBANDEUR — PUNISHMENT OF A SOLDIER FOB MUTINY — HARD DUTY OP OFFICERS — DINNER GIVEN BY THE FIRST REGIMENT — BALL TO THE INHABITANTS TRAITORS IN SAN SEBASTIAN— 'AFFAIR OP HER> NANI — REMOVAL TO PORTAGALETTB — ATTACK ON LORD JOHN hay's boats — INFAMOUS QUARTERS — AFFAIR OF PORTAOALBTTE — MARCH TO BILBAO — AFFAIR OF THE PUBNTA NUBVO — CARLIST PRISONER — POSITION OP THE ENEMY. On the 23rd of July the right wing of the second regiment of the British Auxiliary Legion sailed from Portsmouth for San Sebastian, on board the Royal Tar steamer. The passage, oc- cupying four days, offered no other incident than B MOVEMENTS OF a severe squall, which occurred on Sunday, the 26th, carrying away what canvass we had set, and otherwise greatly incommoding the men, 400 in number, who were crowded upon her decks ; some thunder and lightning accompanied a deluge of rain, and as we had taken our powder on board at Spithead, there was apprehension that injury might arise from the quantity of iron-work neces- sarily connected with the steam apparatus. The storm however passed off, and on the following morning, at day break, the bold head-la"ds of St. Sebastian and its vicinity were dimly seen in tlie distance. We entered the harbour about mid-day, and as the steamer passed the strait, conducting into the basin, we embraced one of the most mag- nificent coup-d'oeils it is possible to conceive. There was that in the scene altogether that filled the heart with a wonderment, in which delight and awe were singularly blended. On the right, rises a bold and precipitous head-land, crowned by a light-house, that looks like the habitation of some genius of the air; on the left, the lofty battlements of San Sebastian, which convey to the THE BRITISH LEGION. » mind of the beholder their utter unassailableness by any thing short of British valour, headed by British resolution. Forming the centre of the arch, of which these points are the extremities, are to be seen a succession of lofty hills, which in England would be termed mountains, not rude and desolate, and barren, as the rocky super- stratum would lead one to believe, but clothed with rich verdure and luxuriant crops, and studded with an infinitude of antique looking houses, har- monizing admirably with the romantic character of the whole. On one of these, and distinctly visible with the telescope, is the outpost of Don Carlos' army. From this point the arrival of the steamer must have been witnessed by the enemy, whose inertness in not seeking to annoy us, (the right shore being in their possession), is truly unaccountable. Beyond this outpost, and in the far distance, spring mountains, along whose side$i roll immense volumes of clouds, that add not a little to the grandeur and sublimity of the scene, contrasting, as they do, with the white smooth sands that stand out in light reUef on the luw foreground MOVEMENTS OF 'm \i lii of the picture. Why was it that I experienced an emotion which I can find no words to render, on approaching this truly glorious scene ? I have been in various parts of the world, have beheld nature clad alternately in smiles, and in frowns, admired all that was soft and lovely — all that was terrific and grand — ^in her several aspects, but never, even in my early youth, did I experience that swelling of the gratified heart which Ifeaves the voice treipulous in its expression of the ad- miration created in the soul. Never did I then, as on this occasion, attempt to convey to others the impression produced on my mind, and find that language was insufficient for the purpose. Why, I ask, was this ? Was it the touching pic- ture of the dense masses of Spaniards, in their various characteristic costumes, who rose in pyra- midical array from its very base to the summit of San Sebastian, waving their caps and giving every other indication of joy, at receiving their new brothers in arms *? Or was it the excitement pro- duced by nature alone in the heart of one who had ever been faithful in his worship of her beauty, ■# M m THE BRITISH LEGION. and prized her most when arrayed in the garb that told at once of loveliness and grandeur ? — What- ever it was, I felt as if I could have shed tears, and yet been unable to say to those who questioned me, wherefore ! Early in the afternoon the boats were dispatched from the mole for us, and our disembarkation was effected, amid "vivas!" from the Spaniards, and occasional discharges of guns from the highest point of the battlements of San Sebastian. When each boat left the steamer, three cheers were given for the " Royal Tar," and on approaching the mole, three more for the Spaniards. As each company formed on the beach, it was marched off to the barracks of St. Elmo, preceded by a Spanish band. The balconies of the houses were thronged, and over them peered many a dark aiid sparkling eye, that marked any thing but disapprobation of the arrival of the strangers. On the whole, our reception wanted the brilliancy and fervor that had marked the landing of the 1st regiment; but this was to be expected. The nine days wonder had ceased, and the inhabitants satisfied them- MOVEMENTS OF selves with evincing all the kindUness of gratu- lation, without incommoding themselves, or us, by an exhibition of its boisterousness. . 5^,.,^, ' The news communicated of the enemy on our arrival, was of a nature to inspire disgust and a desire tor vengeance in our minds. Lord John Hay had come over from Bilbao in a steamer on the preceding day, and reported that two marines belonging to his ship had been taken by the Carlists and shot. A man of the 1st regiment of the Legion, who had wandered a little distance from San Sebastian, had also fallen in with a picquet of the enemy, and was captured ; his fate can scarcely be said to be doubtful. July 30th. — A district court martial sat to day on a man, who, on open parade, swore he would knock down any officer or private who should dare to approach him, and otherwise used most mu- tinous language. His sentence will be read to- morrow before the brigade, which is ordered to assemble to witness his punishment, when it is to be hoped such example will be made as will pre vent others from falling into tlie same course. THE BRITISH LEGION. July 31st. This morning the sentence was car- ried into eflfect, and corporal punishment inflicted upon the prisoner in presence of the brigade. He bore it unflinchingly, and at the close, when taken down, cried out in the most mutinous and insolent manner, " Hurra, boys, it's over now, and there's no great harm in that, they've done their worst." This language might and would have been passed over, had not the prisoner flnished by throwing a tin water-can, which had been given him by one of the drummers, with great violence from him, and in the most disorderly manner : certainly had there existed any disposition to mutiny on the part of the great body of the men, nothing could have more tended to call it forth ; but the act brought its merited punishment. By order of Colonel Kirby, who commanded the parade, a drum-head court-martial, consisting of one major and six cap- tains, was instantly assembled in the centre of the square. Then, indeed, was the prisoner com- pletely crest-fallen. He had not anticipated this power to try him so immediately after a first punishment. He threw himself upon his knees. \ 8 MOVEMENTS OP and in the most piteous tones implored for mercy ; declaring that he had acted under the influence of madness — that excited by the punishment, he knew not what he said or did. He promised that, if forgiven, he would ever after prove a good sol- dier ; but his appeal met with no reply. The court proceeded with its deliberations, and when it had closed, the sentence awarded was found to be one hundred and fifty lashes, for the crime of mutinous conduct on parade. A change came over the act- ing of the artful prisoner ; he no longer pleaded for mercy, but affected weakness and inability to stand. He was raised from the earth, borne to the tree where he had orijrinally been tied up, and the drummer flourished his cat. Colonel Kirby addressed the parade, pointed out the flagrant crime of which the man had been guilty, expressed his [determination to show them that mutiny and insubordination should be put down, and concluded by pardoning the offender. This was as it should have been. It proved to the prisoner, and to the men at large, that there was no personal feeling against the individual, but a resolution to uphold m w THE BRITISH LEGION. 9 the discipline of British soldiers in a foreign land, in the manner most befitting our high military name. What General Evans will say to the punishment, is not so clear, but from his known hostility to flogging, it is doubtful whether he will approve it. Certainly, this offender merited death or the cat. ' - '-:p - August 4th. — As officers, we have decidedly no sinecures; perpetual drillings of the men, and constant attendance at the barracks, in order to the well-conduct of our charge. To-day the Lon- don Merchant steamer arrived, and in her about 250 men of our left wing*. The great nuisance of these arrivals at different periods, is, that when the fiist party have spent their bounty, and shown symptoms of returning sobriety, the introduction of fresh comers distracts the good order and ar- rangement it has cost the officers so much time and trouble to accomplish. These things, how- ever, are unavoidable. On the whole, the 2nd regiment has been better conducted than the 1st, and in my company, consisting of ninety-six men, I know not one essentially bad subject, c 10 MOVEMENTS Of Ufi August 7th. — This evening there was a heavy firing of musketry, distinct!} audible from our drill-ground near the glacis of the town, which continued for upwards of an hour. We expected to hear of considerable loss, but were informed that only two Carlists had been killed, and one wounded, while the Chapelgorris, a sort of urban militia, so designated from their red caps, had one man wounded. From this it may be interred that Spaniards love to keep themselves at a respect- able distance from their enemies ; a circumstance that speaks volumes for their character as a mili- tary people. But iwus verrons. August 9th. — This day we dined with the 1st regiment, at their barracks in the convent of San Francisco, outside the town. It was a sight to call up Tory spleen, more especially that of those most honorable gentlemen who were pleased to designate us, in the House of Commons, as a set of " mercenary adventurers ; " quite forgetting that having barred the door of promotion to us in our own service, we were naturally eager to seek it in some other. Had they been present, they 11 1 I THE BRITISH LEGION. U I heavy om our , which Kpected iformed ind one F urban had one •ed that respect- nstance a mili- ith the ivent of a sight that of )leased Sf as a getting o us in to seek t, they would have been compelled to admit that British officers, even serving under a foreign power, which appears to be their great crime, are still gentle- men. No British mess ever sat down with greater retenv^ or presented a better appearance. It is true there were wanting many of the elegancies, but there was abundance of the necessaries adapted to such an occasion ; and, what was better, the cheer that was given, came from men anxious to rival us, not only in arms, but in all the more gentlemanly courtesies of life. A Spanish band of the regiment of Ovieda attended during dinner, and played several overtures from the operas of the day. After dinner, the cloth being removed, (no — not removed, for it was left to conceal the rudeness of the table) the health of the king was given, and the walls of the refectory, which in days of yore had doubtless oft responded to the joyous revellings of saintly monks and nuns, were now made to echo back the heartfelt cheers of fifty as gallant hearts as ever beat under a soldier's cors- let. In truth, a finer body of officers were never assembled under the same roof, in the same number in MOVEMENTS OF be that roof where it will — no, not under the roof of a British mess-room. " God save the King " was played by the band in good style, and with much correctness ; after which was given by the President (Colonel Kirby) the health of" the Queen of Spain, our Royal Mistress ; " this toast was drank with the same honor that had been paid to our. own sovereign, and the band struck up ** Riego's hymn." Other toasts succeeded, which drew short but appropriate speeches from Brigadier-General Chichester and the command- ing officers, and at an early hour (we sat down at three) we all retired to the promenade near the convent. Flirting with the dark-eyed Seiioras then commenced in due order. August 21st. — A ball was given last night by the officers of the 1st regiment to the inhabitants of San Sebastian, in return for a dinner on their first arrival. To this, of course, the officers of the 2nd were invited. Such of them as could be spared from the convent of San Francisco, (where we had relieved the 1st) went. As unfortunate captain of the day, it was my lot to remain behind, but .-!>? TUV. BRITISH LEOIOX. from the nccounts of all parties, I sustained no great loss, except in the supper, which was excel- lent, and the Champagne which, excellent also, was distributed with an unsparing hand. It would appear that the expectations of many were sadly disappointed on a nearer view of, and approach to the ladies of San Sebastian, who boast few of the refinements of manner usually attributed to the daughters of once chivalrous Spain. It is hardly fair, however, to judge altogether from the speci- men afforded by these, inasmuch as with the ex- ception of some few families whom the civil war has driven to take refuge within the walls of the town, the society of the place is composed princi- pally of shopkeepers. However, there was no- thing to excuse the bad taste of the women, in dressing like so many dowdies, (that is the word) considering their vicinity to the land of the Gaul. The mantilla alone constitutes the charm of their dress ; without it they are nothing. August 22nd. — No event of any moment has occurred to interrupt the active preparations we arc making in take the field. Drill — morn- 14 MOVEMENTS OF ^il ing and evening — until my unfortunate head aches with hearing the same words over and over rei)eated, and my legs are ready to sink under me from positive fatigue. No drill ser- geant in England has harder work than we poor captains of rompanies, on whom every thing is made to devolve ; for in truth, our non-commis- sioned officers are any thing but effective, and we can place but little dependance on them. Three of our. men have deserted to the enemy, induced by the temptation of five-and-twcnty dollars a man, offered by a set of scoundrelly spies, whom we are endeavoring to detect — should we discover any of them, they will be hanged, without even the form of a trial, from the trees of the avenue conducting to our bar- racks. One of the deserters was a Serjeant in my own company, and a man so clean in his habits, and correct in his deportment, that I would as soon have suspected an officer as himself. I find since, however, that it was known among the men he had repeatedly deserted from (ho British service, and had only left one THE BRITISH LEGION. 15 I'ejrimcnt two days before we enlisted him at Portsmouth. Tims it is, as we seldom hear of a man's merit until after his death, so nought was said of my sergeant's demerit until after his flight. The old proverb of "appearances" comes in aptly enough here ; — I wish Don Carlos joy of the ac- quisition of the traitor. His name is Prenderville. August 30th. This morning was made the first demonstration of hostilities since our arrival in San Sebastian. The enemy had been sedulously employed, during the last two days, in throwing up breast works upon a lofty hill covering the vil- lage of Hermani, and from this it was determined by Generals Evans, Alava, and Tauregui (the two former of whom had been some days arrived) to dislodge them. Accordingly the Spanish regiments of Fernandos and Africa together with the Chapelgories led the way tbllowed by the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and the right wing of the 7th regiments of the British Legion. The Spaniards soon suc- ceeded in driving the enemy from the hills, but they retired in good order from their outpost to their principal position, Santa Barbara, a height IG MOVKMENTS OF f ■i 13 !.S' f in* ( : ir^'*! «j|'!l crowned with bold cra«i;8, and affordinj^ every obstacle to the pursuit of their enemies. The intermediate ground, consisting* of an alternation of corn fields and hedges, was disputed stcj) by step ; a part of the 1st regiment only, with one wing of the 7th of the British troops supported the S})aniards, and were engaged for a consider- able part of the day, and it was merely when compelled, by the advance of evening, to abandon the attempt to carry the height, tliat, hotly fol- lowed by the Carlists in return, the 3rd and part of the 2nd took share in the affair. We were kept as a reserve, when, had we aided the 1st, who gallantly attempted the height, in conjunction with the Spaniar '>, we must in all probability have accomplished the capture of the position. But a reconnoissance only was intended in the first instance, nor had any plan been fixed upon beyond attempting the first height. Had General £vans been permitted, he would have attacked, and doubtlessly carried the town of Hernani ; but the desire expressed by him on this subject was overruled by General Alava, who peremptorily THE BRITISH LEGION. forbade it. Add to this, that his object in com- ing to San Sebastian, was merely to show and accustom his men to the enemy, and for this reason chiefly was the reconnoissance und^r- laKen* • ., *' «" ^ .•<#-/<:■« s»i '•■ ■ -»> As it was, the enemy, encouraged by our failure in carrying Santa Barbara, made rapid movements to attack us in the flank, and turn our rear. Tliey pressed hotly upon us, and as there was reason to fear they might attempt to get completely be- tween us and San Sebastian, and possess them- selves of our convent, the troops were ordered to retire. This we did closely, and in good order. The Spanish and English force engaged on the occasion consisted of about 4,000 men, while that of the Carlists, from intbrmation received, might be computed at 7,000, under General Gomez. „, They made u great display of force. The firing lasted from twelve at noon until seven in the evening. The regiments of Fernando and Africa suffered considerably. Two officers of the 1st Mere slightly wounded; of the 2nd regiment one man was killed, two wounded; the whole D 18 MOVEMENTS OF i>••" s ■■■■ "»..: lljflj' betwecM us and the goal we covet. If the fellows will but stand, we shall readily enough manage them ; hut their system of warfare is so dastardly — so like that of the American Indians, (never firing a shot but from cover,) that they are likely to annoy us much, even though they may not withstand our onward progress. There is a re- port to-day that the Carlists have retreated six leagues, leaving the passage to Bilbao once more free; but this is scarcely to be credited, for although they have seen a considerable body of troops landed within the last few days, it can scarcely be supposed, that with the men they can bring into the field, they will not make some show, at least, of resistance ; or, it may be, that they will suffer us to pass on to Bilbao, and when they know the greatest part of the force to have gone thither, they will make a final and determined attack upon Portagalette with the whole of their army. Should they succeed in carrying it, Bilbao will be placed precisely in the same position of blockade in which it now stands, as there is no seaward communication with it, save by Porta- THE BRITISH LEGION. 25 J, (never ire likely may not is a re- sated six ice more s, it can they can me show» hat they len they ive gone :ermined of their , Bilbao ition of re is no r Porta- i tralette. Wc shall see how far my impression is correct. Before another week some of us will have slept with our forefathers. September 6th. — After finishing what I had of my journal, yesterday, I was aroused from the rude couch on which I had thrown myself, by a report of musketry close to our barracks, and from a height completely and closely overhanging them. On ascending the hill, I found our piquet were being fired upon by a considerably party of Car- lists, who had approached very near under cover of the hedges, corn-fields, and vineyards. Two companies of our right wing (the Grenadiers and my own), advanced to repulse them, a duty in M'hich we succeeded, driving them in succession from two lofty hills,half a league distant, on which the enemy attempted a rally. We were, however, ordered to retire, and thus missed making many prisoners. As >ve withdrew, the Carlists, accord- ino* to their custom, followed us ; but finding that we kept up a hot fire, maintained a respectful distance. An officer of the Grenadiei's being wounded, and several of the enemy advancing E ^ 26 MOVEMENTS OF i.:.'j ■*!«!( rapidly to secure him, we a^ain, in our turn, be- came the pursuing party, when the Carlists, as before, retired with all the expedition possible. Evening put a close to the skirmish. It is re- markable how excessively ill the Carlists fired. Although our men leisurely traversed the fields and vineyards, as they returned, and a continued and heavy musketry was kept upon them, with the exception of the officer of the Grenadiers, only one map was wounded. The Carlists must have lost several men, as we distinctly saw two or three fall. We assumed that their object in approaching thus nigh, was to fire upon the Lieutenant-General, then landing from San Se- bastian. '?'►;'=»*>•" September 7th. — We have had full confirmation of the report of yesterday, that the Carlists had abandoned the siege of Bilbao, and retired some leagues into the interior of the country. We cer- tainly did not expect this, for they were said to be in great strength, and fully resolved to accom- plish the subjection of Bilbao. The height they occupied above the town, and completely com- %■ turn, be- rlists, as possible. It is re- sts fired, the fields ontinued em, with snadiers, ists must saw two object in pon the San Se- irmation lists had ed some We cer- said to ) accom- ght they 5ly com- '!i. THE BRITISH LEGION. 27 manding the river, moreover oft'ered obstacles to our advance, which it must have cost some hun- dreds of men to surmount, had they manitained their position. However, there is comfort in the thought, thai althougli we shall not make our entry into Bilbao quite as gloriously as we had anticipated, we still shall get there, and that, after the horrid hole in which we are quartered, without chair or table, and in rooms that are flooded after every rain, will indeed be a treat. The 1st and 6th are to march to-day. ' i > September 9th. — ^This morning we received the order to march to Bilbao, and had hoped to ac- complish the distance in a short space of time ; but greatly to our astonishment, on reaching the ruins of the Puenta Lochana, which tlie Carlists had blown up prior to their departure, found that no preparation of any kind had been made for our transport across tho water. After waiting for upwards of an hour without any boats makino* their appearance, or any steps being taken for our removal, we at length pressed a peasant into our service as a guide, with orders to conduct us to a E 2 \ m MOVEMENTS OF small bridge i\ cunsiderable distance hcyund, and after a march of some twelve miles, over a moun- tainous country, when it should not have been more than eight, over a level road, we came to the walls of Bilbao at a late hour in the evening. The spirits of the men, who had withstood a good deal of privation during the day, were not a little depressed, for just as they expected to enter the place, an order was given for us to retrace our steps, and take post ip the convent of the Capu- chins, close under the strong hold recently pos- sessed by the Carlists. Here, however, there was no asylum, and once more we were compelled to come to the right about, and secure our night's lodging under the piazza surrounding the church, in the small village of Oliveaga. .^*.ii i Here, without other food during the day than what their scanty breakfast of chocolate and bis- cuit had afforded, the men passed the night on the sharp, rugged stones, and yet with as little mur- muring as I ever recollect to have witnessed among the most orderly British troops. Of a verity these men are in every sense British, and I I TIIK lUUTISII LEOION. 2!) Iiad any one prejiulicod against the service, wit- nessed their orderly and excellent conduct throu}>h- out the day, he would have been surprised into admiration of their behavior. We have proved that the fellows will willini!,ly and readily fight, and if they improve in their general discipline a little more, they will be able to compete for the palm of glory with any British troops in the service. September 1 th. — Yesterday we were suddenly ordered under arms to support an attack, said to have been made en the 7th British, who had been sent out on the road leading to Durango. Our route lay through Bilbao, and as we passed, we were joined severally by the 1st, 3rd, and 6th regiments. As we advanced we met several wounded Spaniards, some v/alking, others borne upon mules, but none of the 7th, who, it turned out, had never been engaged at all, or even seen the enemy. The truth was, that General Espeleta had quitted Bilbao early in the morning, for the purpose of reaching Durango, with the force of Spaniards previously brought up to tlic relief of Bilbao; but so wretched was their intelligence, 'M) MOVEMENTS OF SO little knew they of the movements or position of the enemy, that it was not until having t.d- vanced some six miles from the town, that, yud- denly attacked by the Carlists, they found what they seemed not to have anticipated, the whole force of the latter upon them. Pressed in front, and in flank, Espeleta gave the order to retire slowly back upon Bilbao, by echellon of bat- talions, but the officer entrusted with this message to the several commanders, mistook its purport altogether, and issued a general order to retreat. The result was, as in all occasions of the same kind, some panic, and more confiision, ensued, giving the retreat more the character of flight. It was at this crisis that the British regiments were marched out, the 7th having considerably taken the advance; but scarcely had we passed the Puenta Nuevo, beyond Bilbao on the road to Durango, when a countermarch of the reserve was ordered, and we returned to Bilbao, our regi- ment marching back to their barracks at the church of the Capuchins, to eat their dinners, which were then cooking. " ' ' THE BRITISH LEGION. 31 Meanwhile the firing drew nearer to the town, and as we moved to our barracks, I could dis- tinctly see, with the aid of my telescope, both parties hotly engaged on the heights overlooking the town. That part of the Queen's army which retired by the main road were so closely pursued by the Carlists, that on arriving at the bridge, to which I have alluded, many threw themselves into the river, and nearly 200 perished in that manner. It was at this point that the troops of the Queen sought to rally, and recover from the confusion into which the unfortunate order for general and indiscriminate retreat had thrown them. More than once the bridge was taken and retaken, while Esparteia, who had come to the scene, full of shame and indignation at the conduct of his men, was seen to tear his hair, and court the loss of a lite no longer valuable to him. In fact, on being re- monstrated with on the danger to which he un- necessarily exposed himself, he replied, " that he courted danger, and did not wish to survive the day." But though the bullets of the enemy spared him not, (he having received two wounds,) his \ ;v2 MOVEMENTS OF wish was not realized. Driven acrain, and finally, from the bridge, the Queen's troops once more pursued their retreat, and the Carlists pressed fiercely upon them. At this juncture, the 3rd regiment of the Legion, which had been ordered out to cover the retreat of the Spaniards, came up, and proceeded to carry the bridge. 'From the narrowness of the pass, however, this duty de- volved upon one company alone (the Light), and these acquitted themselves so well, that the enemy were speedily driven back, and kept in check until some degree of order had been restored in the broken ranks of Espeleta's army. It was with difficulty the men of the 3rd could be restrained from following into the heart of the Carlists' battalion, for the bayonet had been used, and the blood of the Englishman w-is up to an extent to render it difficult of control. The officers of the light company conducted themselves so well on this occasion, leading on and animating their men, tliat General Evans paid them the compliment of noticing them in orders. Major King, of the 3rd, a gallant tine young officer, who had received a THE BRITISH LEGION. 33 wound in his left arm at Hcrnani, near San Sebastian, on the 30th, was hit, in this affair, in the Uttle fing-er of his right hand. Of the men, two only were killed, and eight wounded. The loss of the Spaniards throughout the day was considerable. Independently of the 200 drowned in the attempt to cross the river, two companies were completely cut off, and 270 went into hospi- tal, many severely wounded. The number of killed is not precisely known, but the whole loss may be computed at not less than 500 men hors de combat. September 18th. — ACarlist prisoner was brought in this morning wounded, and being c;]i, Heaven knows) which we can spare from our professional duties. Tlie hospitality of the people, however, can in no way admit of comparison with that shown to us hy the inhahitants of San Sebastian. In the latter place, each family in which the officers were billeted did every thing in their power to evince their khidliness of feeling, and though, in nr>i a few instances, such testimony proceeded from that class of persons in whom the refinements of life could scarcely be looked for, still the sentiment was profoundly ingrafted. In Bilbao it has been different. What families have been compelled to accord, they have accorded, but nothing more. There have been exceptions to the general re- mark, of course, but not many. The indifference of the Bilbao people may, however, be attributed, in a great degree, to the length of the siege they have sustained, (nearly two years at intervals,) during which privation, and anxiety, and long disappointed hope, may have conduced to merge their more generous impulses in an impure and selfish regard for their own interests alone. 40 MOVEMENTS OP September 22ncl. — In the absence of matter of military interest, it may not be malapropos to introduce a few observations as to Spanish life, such as it has hitherto been unveiled to us. The town of Bilbao itself is essentially mercantile, and the inhabitants, with the exception of the autho- rities and families of the military leaders, wholly of that caste of society. Tertullias, or evening meetings, at their respective houses, during which dancing is occasionally introduced, seem to con- stitute their chief amusement. There is also a rather decent theatre, which appears of recent construction, and is commodiously situated at the extremity of the well-shaded public promenade of the Arenal — the quartier par excellence of Bilbao. At this theatre, (which is about equal in size with the Surrey, and neatly fitted up, the Governor's box, surmounted with the arms of Spain, being placed in the centre, and immediately fronting the stage,) operas are given once, sometimes twice, a week. Of the merit of these I do not feel myself competent to speak, but the acting of the performers may, on the whole, be pronounced 1. 1 THE BRITISH LEGION. 41 tolerably fair for a provincial town in the north of Spain. The best proof of this is the favorable manner in which the opera is generally received, and the crowded state of the house. Their comedies, however, are poor and spiritless pieces of composition ; too much dialogue, and little or no action, — that little without point. But I beg pardon, I must except one instance at least, in which point enough, and of no common character, was exhibited, a night or two ago. The first piece, as far as it was suffered to proceed, seemed to have no other aim than the development of the felicitously imagined point, at the conclusion of which, it was, much to the surprise of the au- thor, suddenly arrested in progress. The pith of the story was this : — A young lady, desirous of punishing a pert Lothario, calls upon him and requests the loan of his clothes, in order to disguise her for some particular object. The gentleman very politely consents, and after his visitor has inducted herself in his hat, coat, and waistcoat, unceremoniously proceeds to remove that part of his dress, the very name of which, in G 4$ MOVEMENTS OF En