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32X

■ f

VOYAGES

Made in the Years 1788 and 1789,

FROM

CHINA TO THE N.W. COAST of AMERICA.

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Uf'^tu^

VOYAGE

Made in the- Years 1788 and 1789,

FROM

CHINA TO THE N.W. COAST OF AMERICA:

WITH

AN INTRODUCTORY NARRATIVE

o r

A VOYAGE

Performed in 1786, from Bengal, in the Ship Nootk*.

TO WHICH ARC AMNCXtUf

OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCB

A NORTH fVE ST PASSAGE.

AMD SOME ACCOUNT OF
THB TRADE BETWEEN THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA
AND china; AMD THB LATTER COUNTRY AND
< GJIEAT BRITAIN.

Bv JOHN MEARES, Esq^

V o L I.

LONDON.-

PRINTED AT THE XogogtaptliC PtOH
AMD SOLD BY

J. Walter, Na 169, Piccadillt, oppohtb Old Bomb Street.

179I.

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■*--— -^**^fe«.«.w-.

}

»?¥.

S-ik

^fWTBf*^';

•A •

To THK

RIGHr HON. LORD HAIVKESBURT,

PRESIDENT OF THE BOARD OF TRADE, (i<.

WHOSI COMMERCIAL ERUDITION AMD OFPtCtAI. STATION,

RENDER HIM THE BEST JUDGE,

AN'D THimrolK,

THE MOST HOKOl'RABLE PATROK*

or ALL WORKS WdlCH TEND TO PROMOTE THR INTERESTS,

AND ENLARGE THE^ BOUNDARIES OF BRITISH COMMERCE;

THIS WORK IS DEDICATED,

U-ITH THE GREATEST RESPECT,

BY HIS LORDSHIP'S MOST OBLIGED,

AND FAITHFUL HUMBLE SERVANT,

JOHN MEARES.

(

.s»«^**»»

PREFACE.

nn HE wifties of friends, — the poli-
'■' tical circumftances of the mo-
ment, — and, as I have been made to
believe, the public expe£tation, have
induced me to add the following
Voyages to thofe which have already
been publiihed, to improve the na-
vigation and extend the commerce of
the Britiih Empire. — I do not pretend
to be the rival, — but rather coniider
myfelf an humble foUpwer of thofe
eminent navigators whofe reputation
is become a part of the national fame;

b z and

PREFACE,

and though I may be permitted, as
it were, to envy their fuperior talents
an4 'advantages, I mod fincerely add
my feeble teftimony to that merit,
which has ranked them among thq
illullrious names of my country.

Indeed I feel it a duty I owe my-»
felf, as well as to moderate the fan-
guine expe»Etation which may have
, arifen refpeding the hiftory of thofe
Voyages in which I have been en-
gaged, and may be faid to have con-
<lu6ted, to obferve, that they were
Voyages of Commerce, and not of
Discovery ; and that whatever no-
velty they may poflefs, or original
information they may beftow, arofe
out of, and form, as it were, an in-
cidental part of a commercial Under-
taking.

• The

r-^'-. 5

« /

f R E P A C E. . «

• The veffels committed to my com-
mand, were fitted out in the ports
of the Eaft, by the commercial zeal
of Brltifli fubjefts in that part of the
globe. — It was my office, under their
fpirited and confidential encourage-
ment, to explore new regions of Trade;
the intereft therefore of thofe patri-p
otic merchants and gentlemen who
had entruited a very confiderable
property to my care and controul,
and the honour of gaining a fmall
portion of that reputation which is
due to thofe who promote the exten-
• fion of the Britifh commerce, were
the fole incentives to my zeal, and
alone fupported me undey the difK-
culties, and amidft the dangers I en-
countered in difcharging my duty.
When I was ftruggling with the
^lorms of the Pacific Ocean, — when
I wfts locked up in ice, arid fufFering

the

-■• ■■►■^^i ■ -fcHiWi^iTapd^^i,

le PREFACEi

the accumulated wretchednefs of that
fituation on the (hores of America,— -^
or when I was engaged in advancing
the principal objeA of the Voyage,—*
and avaiUng myfelf of any accidental
opportunity which occurred, of ex-*
jploring thofe dubious coafts, I littld
thought it would be my future lot to
give the. hiftory of this part of my
maritime life to the world. — If I had
looked forward to the poffibility of
fuch an event, I fhould have enlarged
my obfervations, and been more mi*
nutely attentive to a variety of ob-
jects which were but curforily remark-*
ed ; and qualified myfelf, during
every part of my Voyages, to have
given them all the inteteft they were
capable of receiving, and all the in-
formation they were capable ,of pro -
ducing. But without endeavouring
to deprecate criticifm by an affefted

humility,

--• ^■■ ^aa^

■i n iHi I

PREFACE.

humility, or defying it by an unbe-^
coming confidence, I ihali venture to
exprefs my hopes,- — that this Work
will be found to contain information
ufeful to commerce, and inflruftions
which future navigators may not dif-
dain to confider ; that the following
pages will afford fome entertainment
to men who are curious in examin-
ing the various modes of human life ;
and that there are many pafTages in
them which will heighten the feelings
of thofe who " fit and think on what
a failor fuffers."

The Memoir on the China Trade,
&c. mull fpeak for itfelf :— The Ob-
fervations I have ventured to make
on the pofGbility of a North Weft
PafTage, mufl alfo be fubmitted to the
Candid confideration of inveftigatincj
minds.— It is, however, proper to add,

that

!>' 4

.-%»

■^*

P R £ F" A C B.

that in fupporting my opinion on
that fubjed:, I have had occafional re->
courfe to the corroborating arguments
of Mr. Dalrymple, in his admirable
pamphlet on the Fur Trade, &c.

That every poffible attention has
been employed to render this Work,
in fome degree, worthy of the public
favour, will, I truft, appear to every
candid reader of it. — For its inaccu-
racies, though, I truft, they will not
be found to be very numerous, I muft
reft for excufe on the very great hade
in which it was neceflarily prepared
to meet the public impatience ;—
and I am difpofed to flatter myfelf
that the indulgence I afk will not be
denied me.

JOHN MEARES,

Nev» i6t 1790.

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE

or TRX

iS^OOr^^,— CAPT MEARES,

V KO M

Calcutta f to the North jVefi Coafl of America y
In THE Years 1786, AND 1787.

IT might, perhaps, prove uniriterefting
to the reader were I to enter upon the
hiftory of this commercial expedition, — or
to dwell on the patriotic fpirit of many dif-
tinguilhed perfbns at Bengal which fupport-
ed it, as well as thofe honourable marks of
zealous friendihip and liberal confidence,
which accompanied its coniignment to my
care : — It might alfo be equally unimportant
to others to be informed of the oppofition it
received, — the arts employed to fruftrate it,
and the various, as well as pamful diffi-

A culties

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

cultles I had to furmount in the arrange-
ment of it :— I (hall, therefore, proceed at
once to relate the principal occurrences of
the voyage which it occafioned.

On the 20th of January 1786, two ve(^
fels were purchafed for the purpofe of this
expedition, which were named the Nootka^
of 200 tons, and the Sea Otter, of 100
tons. The former was commanded by my-
felf, the latter by William Tipping, a lieu-
tenant in the Royal Navy.

By the 20th of February, they were ready
for fea, when two oflers were made to the
committee, who were appointed to arrange
the neceflary preparations for the voyage, on
the part of the general body of proprietors :
the one was to freight the Sea Otter to
Malacca with opium, which would be a
gain of about three thoufand rupees ; — ^The
committee, therefore, did not hefitate an
inftant in accepting it ; and the Sea Otter
was immediately difpatched on her voyage ;
From Malacca, Captain Tipping was to pro-
ceed to the North Weft Coaft of America,
and the neceflary arrangements were made
for our meeting there.

The

■ •rft;v

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Jii

*f he Other offer was to convey Mr. Burke,
Pay-mafter General of the King's Forces in
India, with his fuite, to Madras, for which
he propofed to pay the fum of three thou-
fand rupees. — This advantage was not to
be refufed, and accordingly I had the honour
of conveying him thither.

On the 2d of March, we got under fail
and proceeded as far as the governor's gar-
den, where, in the evening, we received
Mr. Burke and his fuite on board.

On the 1 2th of March we loft fight of
land, and proceeded on our voyage to Ma-
dras, where we arrived on the 27th, with
out the intervention of any occurrence wor-
thy of relation. — Our pafl'age was efteemed
extremely quick at that particular feafon of
the year. — After landing our paffengers and
procuring additional fupplies of ftores and
provifions, by the kind afliftance of Jof.
Dupree Porcher, Efq. we prepared to put to
lea, which we accordingly did on the 7th
of April, the very day that his Excellency
Sir Archibald Campbell arrived to take upon
him the government of Madras. At this
place we received every mark of kindnefs,
attention and encouragement. Nor among

Az the

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGif.

the many to whom we are ftill grateful for'
favour and for friendfhip, can we heiitate
to mention the names of Mr. Burke, Mr«
Porcher, and Mr. Boyd, as well as to ac-
knowledge the peculiar obligations we re-
ceived from his Excellency Governor Da-
vidfon.

It may not be improper to mention that,
at the time of our leaving Bengal, all kinds
of ftores were fo extremely fcarce, that
the Ihip was but barely equipped for one
year ; and as for provifions, we had not on
board fufficient for twelve months, and
nothing was more apparent than the im-
poffibility of completing a voyage of this
nature in fuch a flate. We had, indeed,
looked to Madras in fome meafure, for the
affiftance we received, which was to com-
pleat our equipment for eighteen months.
With refpc£t to the number of our crew we
were ftrongly manned, but they were chiefly
of a defcription that neceflity rendered ac-
ceptable. The whole amounted to forty Eu-
ropeans, including the purfer, furgeon, five
officers, and boatfwain, and ten lafcars
wliom we took in at Madras. But all our
exertions were fruitlefs in obtaining a car-
penter.

' ■- — •-'1

'm^.mssb'

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 9

peiiter, and the want of fuch an artiznn
was moft feverely felt in every part of the
voyage.

It was the 23d of May before we arrived
at Malacca : — our paflage was unufually
tedious, and afforded time for the fcurvy to
make its appearance. In this early part of
our voyage we loft the boatfwain, who
was one of the beft men in the fhip, and,
in our fituation and circumftanccs, proved
an irreparable misfortune. On our arrival at
Malacca we were informed that Captain
Tipping had failed for America, having
compleated his bufinefs there. Here we
wooded, watered and took in the neceflary
refrelhments, not only to fupply the pro-
viiions already exhaufted, but to enable us
to give every poUible afiiftance to Captain
Tipping, when we (hould meet him on the
Coaft of America. On the 29th we put to
fea, after fainting the Dutch Fort with nine
guns, which compliment was returned with
an equal mark of refped.

In a very few days we efFefted our en-
trance uito the China Seas, and purfued our
courfe with a ftrong South Weft Monfoon,
till the 2zd of June, when the B^ihee

v^3 Iflands

KW»jffc*>«ni^|»»«mM3B»^tfa<**

»- i w»»wii wy '- " '' " T'

J ifc II I it tt . -i ^-^Tl S*

1\ .-^-v.-'W,.

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

Iflands were fcen bearing Eaft South Eaft
half EafV, didant nine leagues. But it was
the 26th before we could come to an an-
chor at Grafton Ifle, which we then did
in a fmall and pleafant bay, in fix fathoms
of water, and about a quarter of a mile from
the fhore.

This bay is furrounded by high land,
which is cultivated to the fummits, and
the plantations, &c. being divided into in-
clofures neatly fenced in, afford a very
pleafing view. A large village was fltuated
on a gentle eminence near the water ; fine
groves of trees were fancifully difperfed
on the fides of the mountains, while a rapid
rivulet glided through the valley ; the whole
forming a fcene of uncommon beauty.—
About four years before, the Spaniards had
taken pofTeflion of thefe Ifles, in the expect
tation of finding the bowels of them enrich-
ed with the precious metals. The governor
and his garrifon, &c. treated us with great
civility, nor did they, in the leafl, interfere
with our little trading communications with
the natives, — who appear to be a moft in-
ofFenfive race of people. We remained here
four days, during which time we obtained

■ ■

■■'*m-^>m*^^

■»a ;.w i M « 8 --'

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

vii

great plenty of hogs, goats, ducks, fowls,
yams, and fweet potatoes, in return for
unwrought iron.

On the ift of July wc took our leave of
the Ba(hee Iflands, and fteered to the North
£a{l, a courfe along the Japan Iflcs, but
without feeing any land. The charts lay
down ifles which we muft have gone over,
according to the (Ituation in which they
are placed. After paffing the latitude of 25**
North, we had one continual fog, which
was oftentimes fo thick, that it was impof-
fible to fee the length of the veflel. On the
I ft of Auguft, having laid to the preceding
night, we judged that we were near land,
and in the morning, at day-light, we got
fight of it, through the Fog Banks, when
we found it to confift of the Ifles of Amluc
and Atcha. We flood in for the former,
and anchored there for two days, during
which time we were vifited both by the
Ruflians and the natives. In our pafl'age to
Ounalafchka we were driven among five
iflands where dangers furrounded us on all
fides, and without being able to fee our way,
but we providentially efcaped them. It had,
indeed, been one continued fog ever fince

^4 wc

::^;»^,;
**»"

viii

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

we eroded the latitude of ^^**, and from
that time we had not been able to make
more than two obfervations. We very
fortunately had a time piece on board,
which proved of the greateft utility.

The five ifles among which we had been
fb much embarraiTed, aredefcribedinCoxe's
Ruflian Difcoveries by the names of Pat
Sopka : — that writer alfo mentions the de-
flrudlion which many of the Ruflian Na-
vigators have found between thefe ifles and
Kamfchatka. They are uninhabited, and
feem to be nothing more than huge maifes
of entire rock. Two of them bear a ftrong
refemblance to each other, and poiTefs rather
a corref): form of a fugar loaf.

On the 5 th of Auguft, in the afternoon ,
we found ourfelves furrounded by a great
number of canoes ; which, from the drefs
and manners of the people in them, we
were certain mud belong to fome of the
ifles, though we imagined ourfelves to be
too far to the Southward for them to come
off. This little fleet was engaged in the
bufinefs of whale fifliing, and after flop-
ping a fliort time to examine the vefTel,
which they did with every appearance of

extreme

V!'""rvW"'-

""^^mm^

-.r"

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. |#

extreme admiration, they left us and pad-
dled otf to the Northward. We now fteercd
a little more to the Southward, as we fup-
pofcd that the current had fet us to the
NorthwaM of our reckoning. The fog con-
tinued to be fo very thick, that it was im-
poifible to fee any object at twenty yards
diflance from the (hip ; — but from the num-
ber of canoes wc had paflcd, there was
every rcafon to fuppofe we were in the
.neighbourhood of land, which muft, in
gll probability, have been the ifland of
Amouchta.

The following night we were alarmed by
hearing the furge of the fea upon the
(hore ; — we inftantly tacked, and when we
had flood on about two hours, we were
re-alarmed with the fame noife. We tacked
again and as foon as it was day-light, we
caught a glimpfe of the land, over the
maft-head, which appeared to be covered
with fnow. But the fog again became im-
pervious to our fight, as it were, to cncreafe
the horrid fufpenfe of our fituation. During
four days of gloom in our minds, as well
as in the air, we were continually endea-
vouring, but in vain, to obtain a paffage,

for

• !l

^**- ..•">..—

k INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

for every way appeared to be blocked up
againft us. The hoarfe dafliingof the furge
drove us from one fide, in order to be re-
impelled by the fame alarming warnings
on the other. We had, indeed, every reafon
to believe that we had pafled by fome narrow
inlet into a gulph furrounded with fatal
fhores, and from which there was no return
but by the channel through which we enter-
ed. Though we were frequently within an
hundred yards of the rocks, foundings were
impracticable, and the fteepnefs of the (hore
rendered our anchors of no ufe.

On the fth in the morning, the fog
cleared away, and gave us a moft awful
profpeft of dangers which our happy experi-
ence was fcarco fufficient to convince us that
it was poffible to have efcaped. We now
faw ourfelves furrounded with land of a
tremendous height, which was covered two-
thirds down its fides with fnow ; while the
coaft was inaccefiible from the lofty, per-
pendicular rocks which formed a regular
wall, except where the violent beating of
the fea had made thofe excavations which,
with the rife and fall of a prodigious fwell,
occafioned the warning noife that proved

OUIJ;

fc—

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. x\

our prcfervation. We now faw two open
channels, one to the Southward, througli
which we had been driven, and another to
the North Weft. Indeed if we fteered at
all to that point, we ftiould at once have
got clear of our alarming fituation : but
we had been all along apprehenlive of get-
ting to the Northward of thefe ifles, being
aware of the difficulty of getting again to
the Southward, the currents being well
known to take a Northerly diredion in the
fummer ; and then we might have been de-
tained an uncertain length of time, till a
ftrong Northerly wind arofe to drive us
back — the South Wefterly winds being the
moft generally prevalent in thele feas at this
period of the year. Finding it, however,
impoflible to go to the Southward, by the
channel through which we came, on ac-
count of the ftrength of the current, we
bore up, and went to the Northward, and
having got as far to the Eaftward as Ouna-
lafhka, we were fo fortunate as to meet
with a ftrong North wind, which enabled
us to get through between Unamah and
Onala(hka. In thefe ftraits the current
pould not run lefs than feven knots at

hour

[■♦

T''^,'/» •

xii

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

■

hour, which caufed a moft tremendous
fea.

When we got round to the South fido
of the ifland, a Ruffian came off to us and
piloted our fhip uito an harbour adjacent to
that in which Captain Cook refitted.

The Ruffians on thefe Ifles, came from
Ochotik and Kamfchatka in galleots of
about 50 tons burthen, having from fixty
to eighty men each. They heave their
veffels up in fome convenient place, during
their ftation here, which is for eight years ;
at the end of which time they are relieved
by another party. They hunt the fea-otters
and other animals whom nature has cloathed
in furs. The natives of the different diftridls
are alfb employed in the fame occupations,
and are obliged to give the fruits of their
toil, as a tribute to the Emprefs of Ruffia,
to whom this trade exclufively belongs. —
In return, they receive fmall quantities of
fnuff, of which they are immoderately fond ;
and, obtaining that favourite article, they
are content with their wretched condition,
from whence, as far as refpeds any exertion
of their own, they will never emerge.—^
As to iron, or any other European commo-

i dity,

L^mtm it *^f;«%>— •■ ■

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

Sill

dity, it is as fcarce with them» as with their
continental neighbours.

The houfes of the Ruffians ire conftru£t-
cd upon the fame principles as thofe of the
natives, but on a plan of larger extent. —
They confift of cavities dug in the earth,
and a ftranger might be in danger of falling
into them, without having the leaft fufpi-
cion that he was within the verge of any
habitation ; as the only entrance into thefe
fubterraneous places of refidence, is through
a round hole at the top of them, and by a
poft with fteps cut in it, as the means of de-
fcent. Indeed, fuch an accident happened,
on the firft evening of our landing, to the
firft officer andfurgeonof the Nootka. — On
their return from a Ruffian village, they
fuddenly difappeared through one of thefe
holes, and intruded themfelves, in a very
unexpefted manner, to an houfehold of the
natives. The fright on the occafion was
mutual; — the one hurrying out of the place
as faft as their fears could carry them,
leaving the fallen gentlemen, in expedatlon
that the invaded people, with whole mild
and amiable manners they were not then
acquainted, would inftantly give the alarm,

and

♦ i V

* !

>i»

tiJTRODUCtORY VOYAGE.

and call their friends to revenge the inna»
cent invafion by murder and maflacre.— »
They found, however, on their return above
ground, that the natives had fled in extreme
confufion and affright to the Ruffian village*
The next morning, the accident was ex-
plained ; and a fmall prefent of tobacco
made the poor people ample recompence for
the alarm of the preceding evening.

The fides of thefe dwellings are divided
into copartments for the purpofe of fleeping,
the (kins of animals ferving them for their
beds ; and in the centre is the place for
dreffing and eating their vi(Stuals. In the
very cold weather, they ufe lamps inftead
of wood : — as there are no trees on the
iflands, wood muft be a very fcarce article^
having no other fupply, but the accidental
drifts of it from the continent. Their diet
confifts entirely of fifli with the oil of the
fame for fauce. This manner of living is
common both to the Ruffians and the
natives, except that the former boil their
food, and the latter eat it in a raw ftate.
We have frequently feen them eat, or ra-
ther devour, the head of a cod or a halibut,
immediately after it was caught, with all

the

'tm'-i

jgS^- Sf^iT"

...t«-;

iNtftOiSUCtORY VOYAGE.

the figns of voracious fatisfa£lion. The
only vegetable thefe iflands produce is wild
celery, which the natives eat as it is pulled
out of the ground.

Though the Ruffians have been fo long
fettled on thele iflands, they have produced
no kind of cultivation whatever. They
have not any of the domeflic fowlQpr ani-
mals, except dogs; — nor had we an oppor-
tunity to examine whether this want of
comforts and conveniencies, which are of
fuch eafy attainment, arofe from local bat-
renncfs, or their own indolence. Their
fole dependance for food, is on the producfe
of the lea and the rivers, which, however,
afford them great abundance of excellent
fifli ; and, if a proper judgment may be
formed from the ftrong and healthy ap-
pearance of the natives, or the colonics,
they do not want a more wholefome or
flrengthening fuftenance.

The natives of thefe ifles, which arc
known by the appellation of the Fox Iflands,
are a ftiort and flout race of people, with
full round countenances, that bear no traces
of a favage difpofition. — ^They do not cut,
fcarrify, or in any manner disfigure their

' faces,

■ ■ t n"

■•■■T-^

SVI

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

faces, like the natives of the continent;
and are, to all appearance, of an harmlefs
and inofFenfive chara<Sler. Jealoufy, at leaft,
is not among their ordinary paflions, as
they difcover no fymptoms of difpleafure
at any attentions which ftrangers may be
difpofed to pay to the female part of their
community.

The only animals on thefe iflands are foxes,
fome of which are black, and whofe fkins are
very valuable. While we lay here, we en-
deavoured to engage the Ruffians to trade
with us ; but they fet too high a value on
their furs to difpofe of them to us, at leaft
for any thing we had to give in return ; more
particularly as they expected to be relieved
the following year. The harbour we en-
tered is fituated about ten or twelve miles
from that where Captain Cook refitted, and
lies in the latitude of 54** 2' North ; longi-
tude, 193° 25' Eaft of Greenwich.

On the 20th day of Auguft, we failed from
Ounalaflika, in order to run down the conti-
nent, till we Ihould pafs the Shumagin
Iflands, as Captain Cook defcribes Kodiak
one of the Southern. Indeed, we wiflied
to be clear of the Rufiian fettlements, as

i |i i»igi )i. <i » » i < | ' iri , ' . - ' IB iy.. '' i"-"" ■ — Wt—Aii ift H I .i i mnj i

ll^tRObUCTORY VOYAOfi.

tvU

we knew nothing was to be got in the vici-
nity of them, before we went on the coaft.

On the 27th of Auguft, we arrived in
fight of the Schumagins ; and at about four
leagues from the (hore, a great number of
canoes came off to us, 'which we obferved
to be of the fame conftru<Slion as thofe of
the Fox Ifles; and that the drefs and man- "
ners of the people in them were the fame
as the natives of thofe iflands.

It appears that the Ruffians, wherever
they are fettled, from fome political rea-
fon, as we fuppofe, prohibit the natives from
keeping canoes of a fize to carry more than
one perfon. Thefe canoes are generally
about twelve feet in length, Iharp at each
end, and about twenty inches broad, taper-
ing to a point : their depth in the centre, •
where the man fits, is about twenty inches.
The canoes of this make extend from the
ftraits of the two continents along the coaft
as far as Cape Edgecumbe. Some of them
are made to carry three perfons ; but, in
general, not more than one or two. The *
frame is compofed of very thin ftrips of the
pine wood, fattened together with whale
finews, 'and is then covered with the ikin of

B the

■ii^ii ■» ■ I *p

»>>m- mmfiir-^

XVlll

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

It. 1

the feal or fea-cow, which is previoufly rob-
bed of its hair. The bottom ui the ikin-
frock, which the natives wear, ties over the
hole of the canoe, where the man fits, and
prevents the fmalleft drop of water from
getting in. Thefe veffels are paddled at a
prodigious rate, and go out in any weather.
It was now the 28th of Auguft, and no
advantage hadyetarifen from the voyage;
but as we fuppofed ourfelves to be at the
termination of the Ruflian fettlements, and
had a large track of coaft to run down, we
expelled to have made an advantageous trade
before the winter fet in, which was now
haftily approaching. With this defign, we
purpofed to make one port to the Weftward
of Cook's River,— and, in coafting along, we
faw a large opening, which appeared to be
formed by an ifland : we accordingly fteered
in for it,— and, when we were in with it,
it appeared of very great extent, taking a
North Eafterly courfe. As we now thought
ourfelves clear of the Ruffians, we were in
continual expedation of being vifited by the
natives, and commencing the advantageous
part of < ur voyage ; though we are at a lofs
how to reconcile it, that fo large a ftrait

fliould

J J

introetoctory voyage.

sis

fhould not have been obferved by Captam
Cook. Having continued our courfe up k^
about twenty leagues, a canoe came off to
us from the inland fide, with three gcopje in
it, one of whom came on board, who pisoved
to be a Ruffian feaman. — He was a vej*y
iHtelligcnt man, and informed us that this
was the ifland of Kodiak, that the crews/ci5'
three galliots were on duty there, and thatr\
there was another ifland of the fame name
along the coaft.

This intelligence was by no means pleaf-
ing, as it daflied at once all our hopes of okt^
taining any trade, at any intermediate plao?,
between Cook's River aiid tbeSchumagin
Ifles. We therefore continued our paflage
through the ftraits, which were named Pet-
rie's Strait, in honour of Wm. Petrie, Efq.
and found it brought us out near that point
forming. Cook's River, and diftinguiflied by
the lifiir.eVflCapljDcft^lfe on Captain Cook's
charCi #^©hd!^ fkuitl !ire upwards of ten
leagues In Icjngth and about fifteen in breadth,
and cCfC off. a'v'ery large trad of continent
frcJTH the former charts. We anchored under
Cape Douglas, and foon after feveral canoes
came off to us of the River Indians. They

Bz fold

rr-

•f-3

>*•

■.:^-

itf

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

I \

^fO

1 I

fold us two or three otter (kins, for which
they received fbme pieces of unwrought
iron, about a pounds perhaps, for each (kin.
They appeared to be greatly rejoiced to fee
us, and offered us'every thing they had in
their boats as prefents. Thefe people by
refufing tobacco plainly proved that they
had no connection with the Ruffians, and
by frequently pronouncing the word Eng-
lifh, Englifh, it appeared alfo that the Noot-
ka was not the firft veflel of our country
which had been feen by them.— Indeed it
afterwards appeared that th: King George
and Queen Charlotte from London had bee;i
there before us. The canoes very {hortly left
us to go up the river in (earch of more ikins,
and the following day we faw two large
boats coming down the river, with about
eigfiteen men in each. They proved to be
Ruffians who had been up Cook's River on a
trading voyage ; ana each boat had a hrafs
field-piece with fmalf arms for each man.
They had left their fummer refidence which
is the lower iiland in Cook's River, and were
proceeding to their winter quarters on the
ifland of Kodiak.

LL^-

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE x^

It was now the 20th of September, and the
weather extremely boifterous, fo that wc
determined to quit the river, where wc had
been detained by feveral heavy gales of wind,
and proceed to Prince William's Sound, and,
if praflicable, to winter there. On our ar-
rival at Snug Corner Cove, in Prince Willi-
am's Sound, as named by Captain Cook, the
weather was very violent, and during the
three days we lay there not a native appeared;
which circumftance led us to conclude, that
the natives had retired from the coaft, or
were gone to the Southward for the winter.
In our excurlioiis on (hore, we faw fome
wood which had been fre(h cut, and by an
edge tool; we alfo found a piece of bamboo,
which fully fatisfied us that fome veflelmuft
have very lately preceded us ; and as our ap-
pointed rendezvous, with our confort the
Sea Otter, was at this place, we very natu-
rally concluded that fhe had been here, and
was failed for China.

This was a fituation pregnant with diffi-
culties : — the coaft was to all appearance
without inhabitants, fo that if we remained
here during the winter, there was no prof-
ped of our being able to procure trade or re

B3 frefli.

)

< \%

-I

tiU INTJIODUCTORY VOYAGE.

frefhments. On the other hand, the bad
weather had fet in, with continual gales of
wind, accompanied with fleet and fnow ;
and if we quitted our prefent fituation, it
wafi very doubtful whether wc fliould be
able to make another, and therefore be ob-
liged to run for the Sandwich Ifles, which
would, in all probability, have put an end
to the voyage, as our feamen were be-
coming extremely difl'atisfied. In this fitu-
ation it was determined to prefer an inhof-
pitable winter in Prince William's Sound,
to all the comforts of the Sandwich Iflands,
from whence, it was with good rcafon
imagined, that it would have betn a matter
of great difficulty, if not wholly nnprac-
ticable, to perfuade the feamen to return
to the Coaft of America. Under thefe
difficulties we laboured ; but as the object
of the voyage and the intereft of the pro-
prietors were deeply concerned in fupporting
the hardfhips which threatened us, and
the mortifications we Ihould experience, we
refolved to bear the one and to fubmit to
the other. A very little refledion on the
limited power of a mercantile officer, ^nd the
want of a due fubordiiiation in a mercantile

•*»••*** ■ • - ' ^^trnmih t, i bJj ^ ^ , : -^ 'k^ ■ ■ , :

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xiit

(Tiip, will enable any one to believe that
ill remaining here, we were not at Icaft
tleficicnt in zeal for the intercfts of thofe
vho promoted and fupportcd this commer-
cial expedition.

On the 4th day, fcveral canoes, came ofF
to us, and the natives behaved in a very
friendly and aflable manner. They men-
tioned fcveral Englifh names, which ap-
peared to be thofe of the crew of the Sea
Otter.— -They alfo made us underftand that
a vefl'el, with two mafts, had failed from
thence but a few days before, and that they
had plenty ofikins, which they explained
to us, by pointing to the number of the
hairs of their heads. They alfo informed
us, after their manner, tliat if we would
ftay, they would kill plenty of otters for
us during the winter.

Being now fatisfied that the Sound was
inhabited, nothing but a good harbour was
wanting to determine us to ftay here during
the fevere feafon ; and the next day the
boats found a very commodious one, about
fifteen miles Eaft North Eaft, from where
we lay. Accordingly, on the 7th of Octo-
ber, the velTel was removed to the place ap-

B 4 pointed ;

kxiy

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

pointed ; ihe was then unrigged, and the
people began to work on fhorc to ere<!l a
log-houfe for the armourers to work in ;
which, from the pi'efent ftate of the veflel,
might alfo be uleful in containing lumber.

The natives now favoured us with their
daily vifits, and never failed to exert their
very extraordinary talents in the art of
thievery. They would employ fuch a flight
of hand in getting iron materials of any
kind, as is hardly to be conceived. It has
often been obferved, when the head of a
nail either in the fhip or boats flood a little
without the wood, that they would apply
their teeth in order to pull it out. Indeed,
if the different lofles we fuftained, and the
manner of them were to be related, many
a reader would have reafon to fufpeft that
this page exalted the purloining talents of
thefe people, at the expence of truth.

It was now the middle of Odober, and we
had coUefted a few (kins. The natives alfq
affembled in greater numbers, and became
fo very troublefome as to perplex us very
much, in regard to the manner in which we
fhould condu<5l ourfelves towards them. —
Policy and humanity both inflrufted us to
, avoid|

*^f

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

avoid, if poffible, any violent corre£llves,
but it very often happened, that our people
who were employed on fhore in wooding
and erecting the houfe, were obliged to
come off to the fliip, as the natives would
come down from the woods behind them,
and endeavour to take away whatever tools
they had in ule. — As the veflel lay fo near
the place where the people were at work,
that we could talk to them, we did not allow
them fire-arms, unlefs they were accom-
panied with a careful officer, left an impro-
per ufe (hould be made of then ; and we
had hitherto found, that the firing a mufquet
from the (hip would at all times drive the
natives away.

On the 25th of Oftober, a large party of
Indians were perceived coming into the
creek, and as there appeared to be a greater
number than we had feen aflembled before,
we called to our people to come on board, and
they not coming iii>mediately, the Indians
got up a-breaft of the veflel, and immedi-
ately landed where they were at work : —
at the fame moment another party joined
them from the woods. — As the natives in
the canoes went on (hore in fpite of all our

iignals

jiiH. ■#^;r:iS»#^'«^J»W-^-*-

zzn

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

fignals to prohibit them, two of our guns
were ordered to be pointed at them, which
had the defired efFed ; as they were at this
time endeavouring to take away the axes
from our people on (here. But on per-
ceiving the preparations we were making,
they cried out in their ufual manner, laule^
lauli, or friend, friend, and extended wide
their arms as a token of amity.

Having got all our people on board, it was
thought to be a proper opportunity to dif-
perfe the natives, who were now affembled
in fuch conflderable numbers, by (hewing
them the power of our cannon, and accord-
ingly a twelve pound cannonade was fired
with grape fhot, which difplayed its efFedls
upon the water to their extreme aftonilh-
ment, and indeed threw them into fuch a

panic,

that one half of them overfet their

canoes from fright.— A three pound field
piece was then difcharged from the (hore,
with a round (hot, which grazing along
the furface of the water to a conflderable
diftance, convinced them that it was in our
power to throw the fhot to whatever point,
and in whatever dirciStion we thought pro-
per. While they were deliberating, as it

were.

»*«--i»a!jt5(j,,., .,<. ,^-

■■' ■'•-••••>"-<.„

■^-v^tK^mtmmt^-

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

xxvu

were, in a ftate of no common apprehen-
fion, we made them underftand that it was
not our intention to do them any injury
while they conduded themfelves to us in
an honelT: and friendly manner, and that it
was our wifh to engage in trade with them,
by purchafnig their Ikins with fuch articles
as we had got for that propofe. Thefe ar-
ticles were then offered to their attention,
when, after repeated (houts of joy, fuch as
were dreffed in furs, inftantly ftripped them-
felves, and in return for a moderate quan-
tity of large fpike nails, we received fixty
fine fea-otter ikins. To conciliate their
friend (hip, the principal men among them
were prefented with beads of various co-
lours, and they promifed to bring us Ikins as
faft as they could procure them.

This attempt was certainly pre- meditated,
as thefe people never make war upon each
other in thofe large boats, which they em-
ploy folely .to carry away their old men,
women and children, on the approach of
an enemy ; and they are called by them the
women s' boats. They now made ufe of
them for the purpofe of landing a great
number at once, that they might be cer*

t^ia

I M

\ ,

miiA^*m« r'^ !l mi

SXTIU

INTRODUCTORY VOVAGE.

)./

tain of cutting off the retreat of our work-
men. But though this fcheme proved abor-
tive, w^e had no reafon to fuppofe that they
would, or perhaps could refift an opportu-
nity of ftealing any article, of which iron
compofed a part, fo powerful was the
temptation that afl'umed the form of that
favourite metal.

Such, however, was the prefent appear-
ance of our affairs, that we defifted from
carrying on our operations on ftiore. We
therefore began to cover the veflel with fpars,
and clofe it in all round the fides, which
we got done above one half from aft, for-
ward ; but the falls of fnow became fo
frequent, and deep on the fliore, that we
were prevented from compleating it, which
was a very great inconvenience ; as the part
that was covered always afforded a place to
walk in, as well as prevented a great deal
of cold from ftriking through the deck. It
alfo formed a very fufficient fortification had
that been neceffary ; — as we; were boarded
and netted all round, ten feel above the gun
whale fo that we (hould have been able to
have defended ourfelves againft any attack
that could have been made upon us ; tho'
I the

'i-j% ^jnOfifAjMi:**'

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxis

the ice, which was forming all round us,,
gave the natives no inconfulerable advantage:
but,, whatever might be the inclinations of
our favage neighbours, the^operations of our
great guns had frightened them into the
moft amicable demeanour towards us.

On the 31ft day of October the thermo-
meter fell to 32, and the mornings and
evenings were very fliarp. Till this period,
we had caught a great plenty of falmon,
but we now found theiy were leaving the
fmall rivers. At two hauls of the feine in
a pond, between the neighbouring hills,
we caught as many as we could fait for the
wunter ufe ; and, for our daily confumption,
two men were difpatched every ;norning,
and in two hours they would bring down
as many as they could carry. The method
of taking them may appear rather ridicu-
lous, but it is managed by following the
drain of water from the pond, to where it
emptied itfelf into the fea, and knocking,
the fifli on the head with clubs, as they
were going up or coming down ; and as the
channel was not above a foot in depth, this
bufinefs proved good fport to the failors, as
well as a fourcc of luxurious provifion for the

table*

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

; .

I-

■K i

table. The days of plenty were however draw-
ing nigh to a conclufion. The ducks and
geefe which had alfo afforded us a conftant
fupply, were now forming into flocks and
paffing away to the Southward. — ^The na-
tives had alfo brought us occafionally fome
of the mountain fheep which were the only
laud animals we faw amongft them, and
we had depended for fopie affiftance at leaft
froni them on the article of prcvifion during
the winter; — inftead of which, by the 5th
of November, not one of the feathered tribe
was to be feen, nor was it poffible to go
into the woods, the ground being, at this
time, covered with at leaft five feet of loofe
dry fnow. — The fifti had alfo left the creeks
and coves, and ice began to form every
where around us. — The ftupendous moun-
tains which met our eye on every fide,
were now white with fnow to the very edge
of the water, while the natives had no other
means of fupport but the whale fifh and
blubber which they had prepared for their
winter provifions. — But fince the 2d of No-
vember, the ice, from the veffel to thelhore,
had been capable of bearing, and our people
had commenced the amufement of ikaiting

and

Wk^

"•-«<: f!ja>i»»<w""**'

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

xzn

and other diverfions on it, which not only
afforded them confiderable recreation, but
contributed greatly to the prefervation of
their health, till the fnow became as deep
on the ice as it was on the (hore.

During the months of November and
December we all enjoyed an excellent ftate
of health. — ^The natives alfo continued their
friendly behaviour to us, except in their in-
corrigible difpofition to flealing, which
they never failed to indulge when any op-
portunity offered, and which the moft at-
tentive vigilance on our part could not
always prevent. The thermometer, during
the month of November, was from 26** to
28°, and in December it fell to 20", where
it continued the greateft part of the month.

We had now at noon but a very faint
and Iglimmering light, the meridian fun
not being higher than 6°, and that obfcured
from us by hills 22* high to the South-
ward of us. While we were thus locked
as it were, from the chearful light of

day, and the vivifying warmth of folar
raySj^no other comforts prefented them-
felves to compenfate, in any degree, for the
Icene of defolation which encircled us.—

While

«kU INTRODUCTORY VOYAGfi.

;

1
'i.

While tremendous mountains forbade al->
moft a fight of the fky, and caft their nodlur-
nal (hadows over us in the midft of day,ihe
land was impenetrable from the depth of
fnow, fo that we were excluded from all
hopes of any recreation, fupport, or comfort,
during the winter, but what could be found
in the fliip and in ourfelves. — This, how-
ever, was only the beginning of our troubles.
The new year fet in with added cold, and
was fucceeded by fome very heavy fails of
fnow, which lafted till the middle of the
month. Our decks were now incapable of
refifting the intenfe freezing of the night,
and the lower parts of them were covered
an inch thick with an hoary froft, that had
all the appearance of fnow, notwith (landing
three fires were kept conftantly burning
twenty hours out of the twenty- four ; fo
that when they were firft lighted the decks
were all afloat. For fome time we kept
in the fires night and day, but the fmoke
which proceeded from a temporary ftove,
made out of one of the forges, was fo very
troublefome, that the people, who were now
falling ill, were fully convinced that this
continual fmoke was the caufe of their

iicknefs*

'•muttar*'- • )u iiMO'ilii i""''*«w«(M|<'#^

ni>h<wwM*Hii<i»»>*— a y ' ■ , ' ' " ' I " J i j"

'^^^'mmam*'^

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. s»iU

iickiiefs. After the heavy fall of fnow we
had twelve down with the fcurvy, and to-
wards the end of the rftonth four died,
and the number encreafed to twenty-three
who were confined to their beds, amongil
whom was the furgeon, who was extremely
ill. The firft officer, on finding himfelf
flightly afFe£ted in the breaft, a fymptom
which generally foreboded a fatal deter-
mination in a very few days, got rid of it
by continually chewing the young pine
branches, and fwallowing the juice ; but,
from the anpleafant tafte of this medicine,
few of the fick could be prevailed upon to
perfifl in takhig it.

At the latter end of February the diforder
had encreafed, and no lefs than thirty of
our people were fo ill, that none of them
had fufficient flrength to get out of their
hammocks : — four of them died in thecourfe
of the month.— Indeed, at this time, our
neceiTaries werefo far exhaufted, that if the
more violent fymptoms of the diforddr had
abated, there was a want of proper food &c.
to complete the cure. Thefe melancholy
circumftances were rendered more affliding
by the hopelefs minds of the crew; for

Vol. I. C fuch

xnxtr

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

fuch was the general difcouragcment ^mong
them, that they confidered the flighteft
fymptom of the diforder to be a certain pre-
lude to death.

' During the months of January and Fe-
bruary, the thermometer continued for the
greater part at 1 5°, though it fometimes fell
to 14.°. Notwithftanding this extreme cold»
we were vifited as ufual by the natives, who
had no other c loathing but their frocks,
made of the fkins of fea-otters and feals,
though chiefly of the latter, with the fur on
the outfide. — But whatever prote<Sl:ion thefe
drefi'es gave to their bodies, their legs re-
mained uncovered, and without any apparent
inconvenience. They appeared to be as much
diftreifed for provifions as ourfelves, and as
we had feveral calks of the whale blubbar
which had been colledted for oil, they ufed,
whenever they came on board, under a pre-
tence that the weather was too boifterous for
them to engage in whale hunting, to entreat
a regale of this luxurious article ; which
was always granted to their great comfort
and fatisfadlioiK — In their opinion it was
owing to our not taking the fame delicious
and wholefome nourifbment, that fuch a

terribb

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

XXXV

terrible and alarming ficknefs prevailed
among (I us.

We were at firft very much furprifed at
their being informed of the death of our
people, and the places where we had buried
them. — They particularly pointed to the
edge of the (hore between the cracks of the
ice, where with confiderable labour we had
contrived to dig a fhallow grave for our
boatfwain, who, from his piping, had at-
tradled their particular notice and refpe<5t.—
We indeed at fi^ft imagined that they con-
trived to watch tn«fe melancholy ceremo-
nies in order to dig ilo the bodies for a ban-
quety as we had no ^oubt but that they
were acanibal tribe* W« however foon after
difcovered that they obtained their intelli-
gence from the conftant watch they kept,
to prevent any other bands of natives from
coming to trade with us, without giving
them a ihare of their profits, whatever they
might be.

As they paid us daily vifits, we at firft
imagined that their place of habitation was
at no very great diftance, though we had
never been able to difcover it ; but we now
learnt that they were a vagrant people, with-

C 2 out

•f

•3^,

■#^

xxitI

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

out any fixed place of abode, fleeping where
they could, and when they had the iucli-
nation ; and that they made no di(lin£tion
between the night and the day, wandering
about as much during the one as the other.
They never made any fires in the night for
fear of being furprifed by thofe tribes with
whom they fecmed to be in a continual (late
of hoilility, and who mufl have come acrofs
the ice to attack them ; for as they had no
knowledge of the ufe of fnow ihoes, the
woods were wholly impaflable.

The month of March brought no alle-
viation of our diflreiTes : — It was as cold as
the months which preceded it. In the early
part of it there fell a great deal of fnow,
which encreafed the number of the fick, and
the violence of the difordcr in thofe who
were already afflicted by it. — In the courfc
of this month we had the melancholy office
of performing the laft imperfect obfequies to
the remains of the furgeon and the pilot.
Thefe were heavy misfortunes, and the lofs
of the former, at a moment when medical
knowledge was fo neceffary, muft be con-
iidered by all who read this page, as a con-

fummate affliction.

The

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. »«»»

The firft officer finding a return of his
complaint, applied to the fame means of re-
lief which had before been fo fuccefsful, —
exercife and the juice of the pine tree. — He
made a deco£lion of the latter which was ^
extremely naufeous, and very difficult, tho*
very much diluted, to keep on the ftomach :
it operated reptatedly as an emetic, before it
became a progreffive remedy : — and perhaps
this very effect, by cleanfing the ftomach,
aided the future falutary operations of this
antifcorbutic medicine. The fecond officer
and one or two of the Teamen perlifting in
the fame regimen, found fimilar benefit, and
were recovered from a very reduced ft ate ;
but it is one of the unfortunate fymptoms of
this melancholy diforder to be averfe to
motion, and to find pain, bordering on nn«
guifh, in attempting to ufe that exercife
which is the predominant remedy.

Having loft our furgeon, we were now
deprived of all medical aid.— Every advan-
tage the fick could receive from the moft
tender and vigilant attention, they received
from myfelf, the firft officer and a feaman,
who were yet in a ftate to do them that fer-
vice. But ftill we continued to fee airl la-

C ^ ment

kzxviii

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

ment a gradyal diminution of our crew
from this terrlule diforder. Too often did
I find my felf called to aflift in performing*
the dreadful. office, of dragging the dead bo-
dies acrofs the ice, to a (hallow fepulchre
which our own hands had hewn out for
them on the (hore. The fledge on which
we fetched the wood was their hearfe, and
the chafms in the ice their grave :-^But
thefe imperfeft rites were attended with
that fincerity of grief which does not always

follow the gorgeous array of funeral pride to
fepulchral domes. Indeed, the only happi-

nefs ; or, to exprefs myfelf with more ac»
curacy, the only alleviation of our wretched-
nefs, was when we could abfent ourfelves
from the veflel, and get away from hearing
the groans of our affli£led people, in order
to find relief in a fblitary review of our
forlorn fituation. All our cordial provifions '
had long been exhaufted ; — we had nothing
to ftrengthen and fupport the fick but bif-
cuit, rice, and a fmall quantity of flour,
but no kind of fugar or wine to give with
them. Of fait beef and pork there was no
deficiency ; but, even if it had been a proper
food, the averfion of the people to (he very

fight

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

XXXIX

our crew

fight of it, would have prevented its falutary
effects. Fifh or fowl was* not an offering
of the winter here. A crow or a fea-guU
were rare delicacies, and an eagle, one or
two of which we killed, when they feemed
to be hovering about, as if they would feed
upon us, inftead of furnifliing us with food,
was a feaft indeed. — Our two goats, a male
and female of the fame age, and who had
been our companions throughout the voy-
age, were at length relu<Stantly killed, and
ferved the fick, with broth, &c. made of
their flefli, for fourteen days.

Though we were at the latter end of
March, there was, as yet, no change in the
weather ; — the cold ftill continued its inhof-
pitable feverity : — we now, however, began
to derive fome ^ hopes from feeing the fun,
which had been fo loiig ob feu red from us,
juft peep -at noon over the fummits of the
mountains. The thermometer had, during
this month, been for the moft part at 15"
and 16°, though it had fometimes rifen to 1 7".

The early part of the month of April was
very frofty, with violent winds. Towards
tluB middle of it, we had fome very heavy
Southerly gales, which produce the fum-

C 4 mer

%\ IT^TRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

mer in thefe high latitudes, as the Northerly
ones prevail throughout the winter. The
change of wind produced, as may be fup-
pofed, a feniible alteration in the air ; but it
brought heavy (bowers of fnow, and did not
become ftationary ; fo that with the return
of the North wind, it became as cold as ever.
In (hort, during the latter part of this month
there was a continual combat of thefe oppo-
iing"winds, which, were the more difagree-
abl6^ as it occaiioned thick and hazy wea^
ther. While the South wind prevailed, the
lick people grew worfe, and in the courfe of
this month, four Europeans and three Laf-
cars died. The fecond officer and the leaman
who entered upon the pine juice regimen,
were now fo far recovered as to get upon
deck to receive the fhort but welcome vifit
of the fun. This circumftance induced many
of the fick men to apply to the decodion,
and fome of them were perfuaded to continue
it ; but, in general, it was negleded, with a
determination to die at their eafe, (accords
ingto their manner of expreffion) rather than
be tormented by fuch a naufeous aad tor-
turing remedy.

Towards

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

icll

Towards the end of the month, in the
mid-day fun, the thermometer raifed to 32%
but at jiight it fell below the freezing point
to 27". During the laft three days in this
month, the natives brought us fome her-
ring and fea-fowl. The fifh, I myfelf dif-
triliUtcd to the fick, and no words can ex-
prefs the eager joy which animated their
haggard countenances on receiving fuch a
comfortable and refrefliing meal: — and every
jencouragement was, of courfe, given to the
natives to procure a conftant fupply of this
ftrengthening food. *

Thefe people now began to conible us
with an affu ranee that the cold would foon
be gone. They had, indeed, always made
us underftand, that the fummer would com-
mence about the middle of May, by count-
ing the number of moons. The fun now
began to make a large circle over the hills,
and at mid-day it was exceedingly reviving.
The fupplies of fifti were alfo frequent, and
we began to feel hopes, that the remaining
part of us would get out of this defolate
abode, and return again to our country.
Thefe circumftances gave fuch a turn to the
fpirjts of the people, that m;any of them
• ' cou-

. \

^ j

'»,.it.

%\h introductory voyage.

confented to be brought upon deck to feel
the rays of the fun, who faulted when they
approaclied th? air. It is very Angular that
niany of them who preferved aftonilhing
fpirits, and would fay or do any thing, who
appeared in fhort, as if they were free from
all diforder, while they were in bed, would
from the moft trifling motion, or only
touching the fide of their hammocks, be
thrown into fuch agonizing pains, and fuc-
ceffive faintiugs, that every moment might.
be fuppofed to be their laft. In this ftate
they would remain for near half an hour,:
before they recovered.

By the 6th of May, there was an afto-
nifhing change in every thing around us ;;
the feamen who had not been very much re-
duced, recovered miraculoufly, from drink-
ing the deco^ion. We had now as much
fifli as we could eat, with a great variety
of fea-fowl, with which the natives daily
provided us. — We had alfo feeh feveral
Bights of gccie and ducks pafs over us,
but none had as yet come within our reach.

On the 1 7th, a company of the natives,
with the King of the Sound, named She-
noway, came on board with great form, to

con-

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

xliii

congtatulate us on the return of fummef.
They alfo informed us that they had feen
two veflels at fea, an article of intelligence
which we fcarce knew how to believe,
though it was confirmevl by the fimilar and
iubfequent information of others oi the na-
tives ; but, on the 19th, this doubtful ac*
count was verified by the arrival of two
canoes conducting a 'boat, in which was
Captain Dixon of the Queen Charlotte from
London, which, with her confort the King
George, Captain Portlock, he had left at;
Montagu Ifle, to come in queft of us, on the
information of the Indians.

If all the circumftances are confidered,-^
this muil be mentioned as amoflextraordina«
ry meeting; and when the horrid (ituatioii
of the Nootka and her crew is called into rcf-
fleCtion, their ficknefs and their forrow, —
their defolate fituation fo long continued, — .
and the chilling apprehenfiohs that, from
the ft ate of the crew and the ftate of the
fliip, even when the weather relaxed, and
the feafon became favourable, they might
not poffefs the means of quitting it ; — when
^11 thefe items of misfortune are brought to
oiie aggregate of evil, if: is not a matter of
3 furprife

xlvt

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

■

furprife that Captain Dixon fhould be wel-
comed as a guardian angel with tears of joy.
Nor (hall I deny that we received confidera-
ble affiftance and fervice from Capain Port-
lock, whofe embaffador he was. — And here I
fhould have concluded this part of my fub-
je£t ; but as the latter gentlemanin the ac-
count of his voyage, has thought proper to
rcprefent himfelfas poflefling the virtues of
a Samaritan, and that he exercifed them all
upon me, I have thought proper to ftate
the hiftory of his conduct with all the
neceflary vouchers, that the public may be
in pofTeflion of the truth, and be enabled to
judge of the extent of the obligations I owe
to the juftice, the liberality, and the huma-
nity of Captain Portlock*,

* In May, 1787, Captain A. Portlock arrived in the Kiiij;
George in an harbour in Prince William's Sound ; as did the
Queen Charlotte, Captain Dixon, who was difpatchcd with the
boats on a tracing trip, and arrived in S(iug Corner Cove, with
the long-boat of the King George and two wiiale boats. They
were informed by the natives, that a veflel was at anchor near
them, which th 7 underftood to be the Nootka, Captain M^ares,
On this intelligence,Captain Dixon was conduced by the nAtives,
Vid arrived on board the Nootka late in the evening.

When our mutual furprife was in feme meafure abated. Captain
Dixon was informed by me of my condition, and the misfortunes
which we had encountered. To which he replied, that it only lay
in Captain Portlock's power to lend us the affiflance he faw we fo
inuch wanted, and thfit he propofed to depart very early in the
]|iQrmn£| to the fliipj witi(;h w^re diUant n^ar ao kagues : lie ulfo
• • " 9dded

% •

v*iiV*^»

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

atf.

By the 12th of May, the meridian fun
became very powerful, and the Southerly
winds being fet in, the air was foft and plea-
fant. The thermometer during the day and
in the (hade flood at 40*, though at night
it fell to the freezing poin*:, and fpread a
thin ice over what had thawed in the day.
The main bod^ of ice, however, by which
we were furrounded, began to loofen from
the fhore, where it was broken by the tide,
which rifes and falls eighteen feet, while
the drain of the thaw in the country drove
the pieces of ice out to fea. The veflel now
fwung to her anchors, the ice having thawed
from around her : — Our fick were recovering
very faft, though two of them baffled the re-
turn of the fun, and, in Ipite of our utmoft

atten-

added he was certain that Captain Portlock would put to fea imme-
diately on his hearing this intelligence of us.

I made Captain Dixon fenfible of our fituation, and that I had
no boat capable of proceeding down to the (hips ; I therefore
requefted to know if he would give me a paflage, in order that I
might lay before Captain Po tlock the hiftory of our diftrefles; but
Captain Dixon very honeflly informed me, that though he would
mod afluredly accommodate me with a paflage, yet he did not thinle
that Captain Portlock would fend yp a boat in return. I then
confldered, that, if 1 went down, and the fhips (hould neverthelefs
fail, leaving me to get back as 1 could, I fliould be in a Hate of the
moll accumulated misfortune; ---and, though my going down
would have been fome tie on Captain Portlock to fend me back to
my (hip in one of his boats, yet the didance between us being ib
great, it would take up fome days of his time, which might be to

the'

\i<

%Ui INTRODUCTORY VOYAiGE.

attentions, added to the nuinber of tbofe
whom fate had ordained to take their laft
deep on this horrid fliore.— The face of the
country, however, was ftill covered with
fnow, land no vegetable produftion was yet
attainable but the pine tops ; that the fternefs
of winter had deigned to fpare U9, and which
proved an efficacious remedy to tbofe who
perlifled in the ufe of them*

the detriment of Iiis voyage j I therefore, on this conflderation^
waved going, and inftantly wrote to Captain Portlock by Captain-
Dixon. (No. I.)

A few hours after the departure of Captain Dixon, it occurred
to me, that if we could poilibly launch the long-boat, and proceed
to the (hip> it might be the means of fecuring fome ailiftance pre-
vious to their departure.

The hull of the boat, indeed, was deplorable,— for when v/ti
launched her it wa^ with difSculty that we could keep her afloat;
neverthelefs, I embarked in her (accompanied by the firft officer
and five men) the fame eveninj;;. I took with me twocafks of rum,
and feveral bags of rice, to exchange for fome gin, and a little
fugar and cheefe ; all which, Captain Dixon informed me, they
had in abundance.

Fortunately we had fine weather ; and arrived at the fliip about
three o'clock the following evening, juft befcre the commence-
ment of a gale of wind. When we got along-fide the King
George, the boat was half full of water ; and the carpenter could
not avoid expreffing his aftoni(hment, that we had ventured (uoti
a diftance in her.

Captain Portlock received us with great politenefs ; and we.
found that Captain Dixon had arrived but a few hours before us.
As foon as we had refrefliedourfelves, I explained to CaptainPoft-
lock the nature of my errand,— which he heard, and faid he would
confult Captain Dixon on the fubjefl. I then proceeded, to give
him, without referve, fuch information relative to the various ex-
peditions on the coaft, their views, the probable time of their arri-
vals, &c. &c. which muft have been invaluable to him, from hit
Irtte/ ignorance of any other (hips. I gave him this information from

pure

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

slvH

On the 1 7th of May, a general dtflblu-*
tion took place throughout the Cove, and
when we once again found ourfelves in
clear water, the hopes of leaving this iccne
of fo much diftrcfs and horror, cneered our
languid minds with inexpreilible comfort.

The number of natives which we faw,
did not exceed five or fix hundred. — They
are a ftrong, raw-boned race of people, and

pure commiferation for the hitherto unforttmate events of his voyage,
and to guide him in his future proceedings: — Inihort, I coiiunu~
nicated every thing in my power.

In a little time Captain Portlock^ in the prefencc of Captain
Dixon, informed me, that it was entirely out of his power to aflifl me
with men :— this they did, I fancy, to enhance the value of the fa-
vour ; for on my prefling that part of my requedwith great earnefl-
nefs, and urging that common humanity obliged them, and what
they would expect were they in my fituation, they confented to give
me two men, one from each vefiTel ; but required a frerti reprefent-
ation by letter, which I wrote them, (No. II.) Two Teamen were
then called in, and, I fuppofe out of delicacy, the Captains left the
cabin. Thefe men informed nie, that they would go with me on
the terms of Four Pounds per month, and one Otter-(kin each. It
appeared to be needlefsto argue with tliem,— I was at tJieir mercj',
and therefore clofed the agreement, except the demand of the ot-
ter-flcin, without much helitation, though they had but Thirty Sliil-
lings per month on board the European (hips. I indeed thought,
that Captain Portlock might have interfered, in fome degree, to
regulate this matter niorc to my advantage. The agreement was
immediately made in writing, duly (igned and fealed, between my-
felf and thefe feamen ; and Captain Portlock tuas a fubfcribing Witnefs'.

In return for- the two ca(ks of rum, of 50 gallons each, and 1 2
bags of rice of about ^oolb. I received 6 gallons of brandy, 1 1
of gin, two calks of flour, of 20 gallons each, 10 gallons of melaf-
fes, and fix loaves of Englith fugar.

The fame evening, at my requeft, Captain Portlock ordered his
carpenter to caulk my long-boat's bottom, fo that Ihe Was ren-
dered fit for my return.

During

alViU

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGB.

in (ize rather exceeding, the. common ftattire
of Europeans. They have no town, vil-
lage, or fixed place of abode, but are con-
tinually wandering up and down the Soundy
as fancy leads or neceflity impels them,
confidering the whole of that territory as
fubjedt to them, and fufFering no other tribe
to enter whom they have ftrength fufficient
to keep out, without paying them a tribute

for

During thofc afts of mutual civility. I really thought myfelf
much indebted to Captain Portluck; and in retin-noifeied him lUch
articles as I could fpare ; f'uch as rum, rice, and a new cable of 1 3.
inches (Europe;) but he declined receiving any of thefe, not being
in want of them. In the evening of this day 1 bid him adieu;
and arrived iafe oa board the Ntxttka with the two Teamen.

A few days afterwards, I was furprifed to fee Captain Portlock's
two boats enter the Cove : they brought me the foUvwing letter
from that gentleman. ,

Gate Hichinbroke, on board the King George,

May i^lbf 1787.

B A R SIR,

I HOPE by the time yoti receive this you will
be clear of the ice, the remains of your crew on the recovering
hand, and your vclTel in a Hate of quitting the Sound, which I
think cannot be done too foon, as on quitting the coad, by a fhort
run you may be amongd the Sandwich Iflands, where every re-
frefltment may be had for putting your (hip's company in a proper
fiate for proceeding towards China; where, at a proper feafb(i,
hope to fee you in good health.

1 think it was on the fecond day after you left us tlvit we failed
from Port Rofe, Montague Ifland; and, after rounding the Eaft
endofthefaid ifland, ftrctched over for this place, where I lay
much expofed ; but, at all events, mean to remain until the re-
turn of my long-boat from Cook's Rivei-, and the coaft tending
that way; to which place I di (patched her the day after you le^
us, andcxpe^ her in about one month.

Captain

INTRODUCTOkY VOYAOtt. tilt

for that privilege. When, however, thcjT
are intruded upon by a more powerful nation,
which fometimes happens, they retreat to
certain rocks which are iiiacceflible but by
a ladder that is drawn up after them, and
even their canoes, which are of a very light
conflru6tion, are hauled up with them.

They have a King whofe name was Shee-
noway ; he was a very old man and almofl:

D blind.—

Captain Dixon took his leave of nie ofT the Cape, bound to the
Southward towards King George's Sound, with direflions to
touch at every port he could make along the coafl, and try what
may be done on his way there : and as the weather fince his de-
parture hath been favourable, I hope he will make a good hand
of it.

I remember before you left us to have heard you fay, that you
had an abundance of trade of every kind remaining : and now,
my good friend, ) think, in your prefent fituation, that trade can-
not, at lead that it ought not, to be your object. I mu(^ beg
that you would fpare me a part of it. The articles I wifh you to
fpare are beads of difterent kinds, particularly the fmall green and
yellow fort, and of them as much as p^flible; iron unwrought*
and your fpare anvil ; you may' remember that I mentioned my
want of pepper and a compafs.

I hope to fee you as you pafs through the Sound : and remain,
withefteem,

Your's fincerely,

NATH"-' PORTLOCK*
Capt. John Mearbs, Smvw Nooika,
Sutherland Cwe^ Prince William's Sound,

I'wrote him by return of the boats, (No; III.) I hefitated not
a moment in complying with the purport of his letter} and as I
could not get at the articles of trade, they being flowed in the hold
I Tent what I had at hand, viz. the compals, fome pepper, a fetv
tags of rice, 400 or joolb. each, and feveral othtr articles- which

I thought

•"f»''5^?

%mgim3mmi^.

s^mmi^^

It INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

blUuS^-^'When he firft vifited us in the pre-
ceding autumn, he brought with him three
wonficn, whom he called his wives, and
were accordingly treated with a fuitable at-
tention, being prefented with fuch articles
as appeared to be mod agreeable to them ;
but they would not fuffer the moft diftant
fatXVtliarity from any of us. Thefe and three
or four others were the only women we faw

amongft

I thought he wanted, though he did not pay by any means an ade*
quate attention to my wants by his boats-

The Nootka in fourteen or fifteen days was ready for fea : we
therefore failed out of the Cove, where we had been fo long im-
prifoned, and anchored the next evening in Fort Ktches, where
the King George was alfo at anchor. I again met Captain Port-
lock with every civility.

A. few days aft«r my arrival, as we wereconverfing in a friendly
manner on board his own fhip, I was much furprifed at his putting
into my hand the fuliowing letter.

Kino George, Port Etches,
June 9»A, 1787.

CAPTAIN MKARES,

AT thet time 1 fpared you Thomas Dixoit
anji George Willis, to afliil in navigating the Nootka to China, I
had thoughts of quitting this Sound, and proceeding to other part*
of the coafts ; therefore your flay in the Sound, and carrying on »
trade with the natives, could not, in any material degree, affe^l '
me. I therefore propol'ed to you no conditions refpeiting trade*
irt confidcrationofthat afliftancc, which, if I had done, I am pretty
certain you would very readily Ikivc complied with. Since that
period, I have had good reafon for adopting another plan, a' part
of which is to remain in the Sound, and purchafe every (kin,- of
evei^ kind,' that came in my way ; and as your remaining in,4he
Sound and ^trading muft, of courfe, Hop a confiderable part of the
trade that I might get, I ,find ^myfelf in dutyifoound, on account of
my ttTQployei;^ intereflis, to propofe the following concUtions,—
ivhicb, ifjtu ivutU mf/h t» ketp the ajjifiance I have ahtadj lent,

yoa

iii» W i '« « '

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. t

nmongfl them. — We wiihed very much to
get one of their boys to live with us, in or-
der to obtain feme knowledge of their lan-
guage and man tiers ; this propodtion, how-
ever, they conftantly refufed ; but on con-
dition that wc (hould leave one of our people
with them. Indeed the King himfelf always
hefitated to come on board, unlets one orojf
feamen remained in the canoe du? mof.his vi>h\

^^ome

you will finH it nreefaty to comply tvhb. Th*" Cri<'iii<;,n$ rir; th<fe»
ThatjWM bind yourftljfin (T Bond of five /i>«t.')r<.' pjutidf, <•'■ t'^af no
trade be carritd on for fkins of any kind uy ycin/i if, or any i>f
your crew, during your ftay in the Soj'jU this .'':uJbPt ';n'J tiiat
you let me have twenty bars of iror, sud loinc hoaf's." (^n thcie,
and only thefe (?onditionSj >'»« keep nvdr.! nj^fiarice I h-xv iiUmii}
lenty and receive nvbai other ajjiftancc I have in my p^ ':/j/r te qi'-orJ
you: at the fame time I mu(l atTureyou, that wa;; i i:t your Htua-
tion, I (hould not hefitatc a moment in com)i)v:n{r wirh thf tc>r:ns
propofed. You have made a good pui:.lia((:, — \ have it,\nv. Xf>
make. You have more trade than you can poiTbiy ^ifpuic of,— *^i
have mine to make.

NAIH'" i'ORTLOCK.

A requifition fo illiberal called forth all my aP.or.UIurr.ncj and
it was with difficulty I rould fupprefs the indignation I natir^lVy
felt, at the Ihamefill advantage he propofed to take of my helpiv*r/
fituation. However, lor what could I do f Impelled by cruel ne-
ceflity, I agreed to thefe hard conditions, witiv i provifc, tliat
lie gave me his honour to let me have another nun from hiiTiy nnd
the probability of a boy ; and as he informed me that he hud a
quantity of porter on board for the Jaj an m; rlety :'nd ot)"ier arti-
cles, fuch as fugar, chocolate, &c. that i^e voiiid l<;t: rm nave as
much of thofe articles as I, wanted, at th:.- Ctuiton price, as he did
not njean to go to Japan :-~all thi» le aCTured mc tl).it he would
^tnply.with :— 'in return, I plcdg'ju my honour not to trade, or
permit roy people ;-->the bei c's ;*au iron were accordingly fent him.
^fere I finilhed iny ■''iiti he fixed the next day to fend the man,,
perhaps the Kyi ;«n4 ^vUinly the porter, which to ui would have

bcea

< \\

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

ir '

Iff

} \

Sometime in Oftober, iyZf>, his Majefty
. brought us a young woman and offered
her for fale ; and (he was accordingly bought
for ai^ axe and a fmall quantity of glafs
beads. . We at firft thought that Ihe was
one of his own women, but (he foon madp
us underftand that (he was a captive, and had
been taken with a party of her tribe, who
had been killed and eaten, which was the

general

been an invaluable acquifition, on account of our fcoiibutic habits
of body, and having nothing but failed beef to exift on down to the
iflands, the very idea of which we naufeated.

The next day his carpenter came on boards who began to caulk
the deck, and examine the pumps. Captain Portlock cnii>loyed
alfo fome of his people to brew beer and cut wood for us.

Captiun Portlock had done all this with fo many profedions that
it was aM for the good of hisowners, and appeared fo friendly to
me^ that I really was deceived by him.

His carpenter when caulking part of our deck had ufed about
fifty pounds of oakum of his own, we having none of that article*
f>r men to pick it ; — to replace this, I fent on board feveral lengths
of an old cable, about ii fathoms, when one of Captain Portlock's
people came on board witlVa melFage that he wanted 20 fathoms of
cable more, to replace the oakum : furprifed at this declaration, I
fent my firft officer on board, to explain to Captain Portlock that t
. really had no more junk or old cable in the fliip, and that if he per-
illed in his demand, I muft ruin a cable to comply with it, and that
I thonght what he had already received was a full equivalent. Seoa
after I received from Captain FortTockthe^ following letter.

OEAIL SIR,

I SHOULD be glad if you would fend me the other
eight bars of fquare iron to make up the number we had agreed
on; if you have not fquare iron at hand, I muft make flat iron
do; but I believe you have fufficient of either fort, eafily tob*
got at. ifnt of the twelve bars that I have received, my anAoUi%t
has ufed in lengthening your pump-fpears, and fitting the boxea ;
tti«refore I may fay the number received, inftead of twentyr ift

ntumtm

L'SWfc'

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

tt!

general lot of all prifoners taken- in war. —
She alone had been preferved to wait upon
the Royal ladies, who w^re now tired, or
perhaps jealous of her fervices. She remained
with us near four months, and appeared to
be very contented with her condition. She
had informed us that (he belonged to a tribe
who lived to the Southward, and it was
our intention to have coafted it along the

D 3 enfuing

only eleven. In confequence of what pafled yefterday between us
refpefling the junk, I fent my boatfwain on board, and expefted
he would have received about fifteen fathoms ; he was offered five
or fix, which quantity he did not bring on board, as I had told him
what I thought he would receive. You muft confider the wafle
there is in picking oakum ; befides the employment of my people,
w-hofe labour fliould, had it not been on your account, turned to
the advantage of my own fhip, in a trading expedition up the Sound ;
but, as it is, all hands mufl turn too for fume days, and pick oakum,
ready for my carpenter to begin caulking the (hip immediately on
fiaifhing with you ; therefore the lofs of time I have fuftained is of
more confequence to my owners than I ftiould fuppofe even fifty
fathoms of junk would be to your's. — Difpatch this boat as quick

as you can, and the third mart is getting himfelf ready for you

liiope you are well this morning, &c.

I am, dear Sir,

Your's fincere'iy,

N. PORT LOCK.

I tiien fent the cable, which contained twenty times the quanti^
Ihad received from him.

, Captain Portlock alfo defired me to lend him fix (lands of arms, ,
feme brafs muiketoons, and the anvil, Until we m? t in Cb>n«»
>yhich I immediately fent on board.

However, day after day he deferred fending the man, boy, or
pprtei;', or, indeed, fulfilling the remainder of his agreemei>t ;— ,
and tluis matters reded till we were ready for fea :>-I then requeued
l^r> HoUings to go on board, and end^^vour to make Capt^ifi Port*

«-• ■ ' " lock'

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

enfuing fummer, in queft of furs, and re-
flored her to hfer own people, had not the
diftrefles which have been already related,
prevented us from purfuing any defign of
that nature. With what truth we know
not, but (he always reprefented the natives
of the Sound, as the moft favage of any
inhabitants of the Coaft, and continually
repeated, that it was the fear of our great

guns

lock comply with his agreement, and fave J»is honour; wheii, to
iiiy utter aftonifliment, Mr. Holiings returned with the following
anfwer :— "That he would fpare me 20 dozen of porter, and 19 ;
•♦ gallons of gin, for a new European 13 inch cable; (which
** coft in Belngal near tool.) that he could not fpare the man, but
«« would give mean-old 9 inch hawfcr> of 80 fathoms." I natural-
ly rejefled this offer with indignation, the articles being by no
means of equal value, and as he refufed to fulfil his part of the
agreement between us. I told him, however, in the prefence of Mr,
HoUihgs, that if he was in diftrefs for a cable, I would fpare him
one, at the rate that the owners bought it, but on no other terms, as
I had no orders to eat or drink away the property of the iliip.

I then obferved to him, that if he had no regard to his honour*
yet it would appear but common humanity to fpare us fuch arti.
des as would tend to keep this deftniftive diforder under, until we
fhould arrive at the Sandwich I flandsl^ I reprefented, that it was
againft his own and owners intereil to keep an article of this kind
for the China market, wheti he had had an offer of the highefl price
ever given at Canton for articles of the like nature.

On no other terms could I procure the porter, and other little
aftid^s, .biit, as I have mentioned before, for the new cable, which
Irejedled; and in confequence of my reflifal to comply with his'
exorbttaht and diflionourUbie demands, Captain Portlock refufed
thfe two rten and the boy> withdrew his carpenter, and in other
private points was guilty of the moft iirtproper condu6l. When '
he recalled his carpenter, thus fellow declared to Captain Portlock*
that our ffiip was not in a ftate of fafety ; her feams beiilg'O'peA
every where, and the pumps not finifhed. For what he had done^
(nn».J cvalkm^ twofeorts foreandaft|Capfiain Portlock permitted

INTROEUCTORY VOYAGE. W

guns alone, which prevented them from '
killing and devouring ns.

During the intenfe froft in January and
February, we were vifiied by fome internie-
diate tribes, who lived in the neighbouir-
hood of her people, by whono fhe fent in-
vitations to them to come to us ; to which
we added prefents of beads, as an encourage-
ment to receive a vifit from them ; and

X) 4 within

bitn to charge fixty dollars, which I refufed, and agreed w«»h
him for forty dollars, or ten pounds, which was paid him by Mr» '
Cox at Canton.' Captain Portlock received the money.
0« the i8th of June, I received another letter as follow*-:

King George, Port Etches, near Gapm ■

HiNCHINBROKE, PriNCE WiLLIAM's SOVN*i' '

June iS, 1787.

CAPTAIN MEARES,

I H A V E had very recent, good reafon to
think that, after you have quitted this Sound, you mean to put
into fome ports on the coad of America, to carry on a tradiag
fcheme ; now. Sir, you will recoUefl, that, in your reprefjcnti^tioa
to me of your diftreSed fituation, the navigating your vellel from
this to the Sandwich Idands, and from thence to China, in fafety,
was what you gave me to underhand as your only wifli.

If this is really your intention, as a man of honour you cannot
re'fufe giving me a fecflrity tliat you will leave the coaft immedi-
ately on your quitting this Sound, and purfuing that route.— In
cdniequence of your letter I have granted you two of the beA mea
from the king George, but you may be well aflured it was not
to enable you to trade along the coafl. ^

Mr. Creflelman has the paper with him, which you cannot refufc
to'flgn, provided you mean to proceed as you declared you inteode4
*B"d«. ■

I aitii Sir,

Your obedient, humble Servatil*

NATH'» FORTtOGK.

— •r■*r^JH

• -vtrAaiii>,*.*-a

f.J«

if INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

within a few days of the time, when (he
mentioned her expe£lation of their arrival,
fome of them came in three (ingle canoes,
and brought a fmall quantity of (kins. She
cameftly requefled permi(fion to depart with
them, but as we expelled to derive fome
advantage from her information in the fum»
mer, her de(ire was not granted. While,
however, our people were gone down to

breakfaft.

You will pleafe to be fpecdy in your determination, that I
way, in cafe you do not chufe to comply, in giving me the fecurity
I- have aHced, return you the articles I have received, and take
my people on board again.

I need not comment on this tranfatSlion. I was obliged to fub-
tnit; and I accordingly figned the Bond, of which I here give
an exact copy:—

CO Pr OF THE BOND,

Ship King George, Port Etches,
June 18/A, 1787.

Bl IT KNOWN UNTO ALL Men, That the under-written

'' mutual Agreement and Obligation was this day entered into

' and agreed upon between N. Portlock, commander of the

' King George, from England, on the one part, and John

Meares, commander of the fnow Nootka, from Bengal, on

the other part, under the pains and forfeitures as under-

mentioned : —

Wherieas the above-mentioned John Meares, in wintering on

the New Coaft of America, unfortunately loft thie greateft

' part of his /hip's company, and was reduced to the greateft

.diftrefs, not being able to navigate his veflel to China. In

cbnfequence of the diflrefled fituation, as reprefented by the

~ iaid John Meares to the faid N. Portlock, commanding the

King George, the faid N. Portlock promifed and agreed to'

aflift the faid John Meares, by lending him two able feamen

to enable him to prdfccute his voyage to China, on Con*

. PiTIQif That (he f»id John Meares Iballi on his leaving

Piinca

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE

l«ll

breakfaft, flie contrived to get to the ca-
noes, and we fa v her no more. At the
time the girl left us, the fcurvy was not
arrived to the cruel height which it after-
wards attained. — Neverthelefs (he made us
fenfible that the fame diforder prevailed in
her nation, and that whenever the fymptoms
appeared, they removed to the Southward,
where the climate was more genial, and

where

Prince William's Sound, where he now is, immediately
})roceed to Canton, and not on any account whatfoever <exce|^ •
drove by neceflity or accident) meet with, or continue to
trade or barter with the natives of any part of the faid coafl,
&c. for otter-(kins, or any other furs,the produce of the faid
coafls, on pain of forfeiting the fum of i ooo/. of good and
lawful money of Great Britain^ to the faid N. Portlock, his
heirs, executors, and afligns, for the ufe of the Proprietors
of the faid (hip King George.
In witnefs whereof we have hereunto fubfcribed our hands tlic
day and year above-mentioned. t „

As I had good reafon to apprehend further demands from tlie
illiberal and fordid fpirit of Captain Portlock, I prepared immedi-
ately to put to fea ; but, before I could effe£l my. purpofe, the fame
officer who had brought me the bond came on board once mate,
with a peremptory demand that the two men, whom I had received
on my firft interview with Captain Portlock, (hould be returned
to the King George. On being informed that Captain Portlock
determined to keep the bond, as well as the articles with which I
may be faid to have very dearly purchafed thefe men, I refufed to
let thethgo;-^— when I was informed, that force would be em-
ployed to compel my fubmiflion to the demand he brought. My
anfwer to this menace was, That- as I had fulfilled every engage-
ment on my part, \ mould inHft on my right to the men ; and that
If Captain Portlock, whom I defcribed in the moft decided and
unequiv6cal terms, fhould make any attempt on the (hip, I was
determined to repel force by force — On this the officer departed ;
and in about half an hour returned| with ameflage from his Captaun

that

Iriil

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

ZMI--

where plenty of fifli was to be obtained,'
which never failed to prove the means of
their recovery. '

The natives of the Sound, of either fcx,
keep their hair rather (hort; — but of the
fame length before as behind : indeed their
faces are generally fo covered with it, that
they are obliged to be continually feparating
it, in oirder to fee before them. — The men

have

thait I might keep the men ; but without accompanying it with any
apology for his conduft..

When the veffel was under fail, Captain Portlock thought pro*
per to fend me a Sandwich Ifland cap and cloak as a prefent;
which I returned.

Such was the conduft of Captain Portlock. To obferve

upon it would unnecefTarily lengthen an article, alrfady too long.
£very one is capable of determining upon the tendernefs or the

cruelty of this man's demeanour to me. W hether it demands

detefbttion or praife, is left to the judgment of thofe who read the
pages which contain this faithful and unexaggerateij^ccountof it.

f%e Letters 0/ Captain Portlock /• me are copied from the original t
in nuf poJfeJTton ; and^ having inferted them, it may ke exfeSei
that Ifiomd publijb thofe tuhicb I ivrote to him i—-tbey are there*
fore added,

(N0.I.)

io Capt. N. Portlock,

Commanding the KiKG Geo&ce.
» I R, '

I MAKE no doubt, but that you will be furprifed or
Ae perufal of a letter from a brother officer in this diftant part "bf ,
the globe ; and as Captain Dixon has been fo good as to offer a
conveyance of this to you, I could hot omit the favourable moment
Ihat providentially oflfers itfelf.

Some few days ago, the natives informed me of the arrival of
two (hips in this Sound, vrhich, this evening, we found to be fa€t»
t>y titp arriv;al of Captvo I>i;C9n on bojtrd t^ Noutka.
'.cj' I had

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

li*

have univerlally a flit iri their under lip, be-
tween the projc(Sling part of the liji and the
chin,'^yhich U cut parallel vi^ith their moudis
and has the appearance of another mouth.
The boys have two, three, or four holesr
where the flit is in the men, which is per-
haps the diftindlive mark of manhood. The
women have the fame apertures as the boys,
with pieces of fliell fixed in them refem-

bling teeth.

Both

I Iiad wrote a note a fe^' days ago, whirh I intruftcd to one of
the natives, to deliver on board one of the fliips, which he promifed
to do for a certain reward.

Before I proceed further. Sir, it will be neceflfai^ to give you
fome account of ourfelves: Captain Dixon will give you a proper
account of the fize of the (hip, and fo forth.

I failed from Bengal, in company with the Sea Otter, of to*
tons, my confort, commanded alfo by a lieutenant of the navy,
whof« name is Tipping, in the month of March 1786; the Go>
vernment of Bengal being chiefly conce;rned in the expedition.—-
The Sea Otter returned to China in September, with the cargo of
furs procured on thecoaft : I determined to winter; and accord,
ingly diofe the harbour where Captain Dixon found us.

My complement of men and officers were, four mates, gunner,
purfer, furgeon, boatfwain, carpenter, forty men and boys, with
a crew ftrong, able, and healthy. I thought nyfelf fafe and feaire;
but the calamities which we have fufTered during ^ long, fevere
winter, deflitute of all frefh proviHons, will, I am fure,, fill you
with tender concern. To fuch a height did it arrive, tliat it wa»
often the cafe, that myfelf and officers had alone to bury the dead,
whip we eifeeled with infinite difficulty, from tte rigid and im-
penetrable frods.

We arrived here the 25th of September, and were completely
froze in by the ift of Novemhcr. About Chriftinal the fcuVvy
made its appearance amongd us, and raged with fuch fury, thit it
(wept off the thir^ and 4th officers, furgeon, boatfwain, carpenter,
cooper, and the greaieft part of the cre\*. Ih (hdrt; nooiie'oA
p6^ #ab exempt froM it, either rdtiik dHd«'i »nidit is but thntf

! ,

» INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

- Both fexes have the fcptum of the nofe
perforated, in which they generally wear a
large quill, or a piece of the bark of a tree.
Their beards which, however, are common
but in perfons advanced in years, are on the
upper lip, and about the extremity of the
chin, which in the winter is generally frofted
with icicles.— The younger part of them,

weeks ago, that what few were left have been able to creep about.
Svch has been our diflrefled fituation i-^at prefentwe have, inde-
pendent of the officers, but five men before the maft capable of
doing duty, and fourfick, which compofe the whole of our remain-
ing numbers.

I have given you. Sir, but a fliort recital of our misfortunes ; and
(hall hope, if it is in your power, that you will atFord us fome relief.

I fhould myfelf have accompanied Captain Dixon, had I a boat
afloat that could fwim ; the only one I have is along boat, which
we are now endeavouring to repair, and (he is on fliore.

As I have particularly mentioned to Captain Dixon wherein
you may be able to aflift me ; in addition I can only fiiy, that any
favour will indeed be gratefully received.

I (hall beg leave to mention, that could you poflibly fpare the
men, I (hould agree to any terms in their favour, and futhfully
return them on the (hip's ari'ival at Canton.

' I beg your acceptance of a few bags of rice, being indeed the
eiily thing I have to prefcnt you with.

I am, Sir,
Your moft obedient humble Servant,

tiiht/Mayt 17S7.

J. M£ARES.

( N«. II. )

Oh BOARD THE King Gborge,' Port Etches, *%y

Prince William's SouKD,JWav 16/A, 1787.

To Captains PoRTLOCK tfn</DixoK.

Gbmtlkmbn,

IN my letter of the nth of this month, I re* ;
prelented to you the very diftreHed andl deplondile ftate of my (hip» 1
.mjuch you are perfecUy fcjiTihle is really th? C«#» and have m9ft ;
... * kin%

.>*?%^.t»«i

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGft

as we imagine, pull it out as it appears.—
They have high cheek bones, and round flat
faces, with fmall black eyes and jetty hair.
Their afpe^l: is wild and favage, and their
ears are full of holes, from which hang
pendants of bone or {hell. They ufe a red
kind of paint, with which they befmear
their necks and faces ; but after the death of

friends

kindly offered me fuch affiftance as is in your power, refpefting
men to aflift me in navigating the fliip to China.

I mufl again beg leave to reprefent to you, that fnch is my
fituation, that, without the afliftance of men, it will be nearly an
impoflible thing for me even to quit this Sound, much lefs to na-
vigate the fliip to China ; fuch is the debility of my crew.

If therefore, Gentlemen, you will take this into confideration,
and permit me to have a feamen or two from each of your fhips^
it may be the means of faving the lives of the wretched remains of
my crew, by enabling me to conduct, with fuch affidance, Uie
Nootka to Canton, where on your arrival, (hould Providence fo
order it as to fend us there alfo, I willfiuthfuUy deliver them back
to their refpe^ive fhips; and do engage, on the part of the Pro-
prietors, to ftand to any damage that may enfue to you for giving
us fuch timely and neceflkry aindance.

I do alfo engage, fhould not your (hips arrive at CantoOi to fend
thofe men to Kngland, (hould they defire to g*.

I ami Gentlemen,

Your mofl obedient,

J. ME ARES,

Coimnondtr of the Snow NmIu^

(NMII.)

To Capt. Portlock,
CMi«Mi/i<//»jr/i&f King Georcei PQRT Etches.

»IAR SIR,

I WA S this morning favoured, and agreeably
furprized by the m'viiX of your boats, and the receipt of your
fiiciully ktter,

M»ii riiiiirriiiiatjiii

[K.

INTRODUCTORY VOYAOB.

friends or relations, it is changed into black.
Their hair is almod covered with thb down
of birds. Their cloathing confifts of a fmgle
frock, n^ade of the fca-otter ikin, which
hangs down to their knees and leaves their
legs bare. The drefs they ufe in their ca-
noes, is made of the guts of the whale,
which covers their beads, and the lower
part being tied round the hole in which
. . they

Tlie ice is completflly diilolved, and the wratlicr has been cx«
tiemely tine, which h«>!i ciMbicd us to put t'orwardour preparations
liar friii tobrin^ which to a final conclulion, you nvx) juOly luppoi'e
our iitinoit cftbrts have been made.

I arrived iafe at my Hiip the morning after I left you ; and, as I
]tad brought t|)e ilrrngthof my crew witii mo, (oin my ablence
jftOihiiVl cv>uld be done to put her in forwardnefs.

Our chief employment (inre has been to entirely clear our main
and after holds, and completely How them for ica, with the view
Af lewring the coall ; and in cunfcqucnce of which all the beads
«nd tinwrought iron luvc been (lowed in the ground tier.

But, my dear Sir, fo tit rare wc from bcin^ ready, that our utmoft
cflbrts have been able only to accouipliih tins ; and 1 do fuppul'e
it will he ten days at leaft before w e Ihall be ready to put to lea ;
for we iiave now the fpte-hold to. clear of many calks, more ballalt
to take in, and wc have already received between twenty and
thirty tons ; our ca(ks are to repair without liaving a cooper, and
we have to complete our water, cut a lars^e quantity of wood, and
repair-thefails^ which are much eaten by rats; and finally to
jfQpaplete the rigging fpr Ica; .to perform this, we have, I think,
your two men, and eight capable of doing duty; nor am I myfelf,
or any of my officers idle, being employed in endeavouring to
repair a mifierable (hattercd cutter, anc^ in performing various
other necelFar)- avocations. This beiitg a true Rate of our Htuation,
you will from thence judgewhether itwill not require even a little
exertion to be ready in ten days.

We have a.little patch of ground ivhirhiiclearof fnow ; tothit
Ipot Vie lend oiur invalids, v(hoareexnploycdintlx>ilingd^o4t^,aD4
otfy for prclcut ulc and fea-flore i they recover but.llg|rly» thp^g^

1 pcr»

M ^ . a> ^

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

Isiii

they fit, prevents the water from getting
into the canoe, and at the fame time keeps
them warm and dry. This indeed may bo
confidered as their principal drefs, as they
pafs the hr greater part of their time in
the canoes.

There are to be found here all the differ-
CDt kinds of firs which grow on the other

fide

I perceive that the returning fprinp hath Ween the chief inflniment. .
1 obfcrve what you fay relative to the arrangements which you
have made for the purpofc of trade ; in it I with you every fuccefs,
and I beg leave to exprefs my hopes that I (hall meet you at the
clofe of the feafon at Canton.

You -may be affured that it g«ve me fingular pleafure when I
perufed that part of your letter wherein you requed-that I will
fupply you with the articles of trade you mentiun, which I will
moii aliurcdly comply with the moment I join you, which I mean
purpofely to do, to fupply every want you may have, and that is
in my power to grant.

The beads and iron, as I have mentioned, being flowed in the
f;round tier, cannot be got at until I arrive with you, when you
will lend me the necelTary alFidance to come at them ; I have fcarcely
fufficient at hand to ferve the purpofes of keeping the fltip fupplied
with the neccflary rcfrclhments which the natives bring at times
to us.

The other articles I have put in the boats, they being at hand.

As I hope fliortly to fee you, I will only beg leave to add| that
1 am, with cAeem,

Your'i, very fincerely,
'HooTKA, Sutherland-Cove, Prince
William's Sound, May 22,1787. J. MEARES.

(NMV.)

CAPTAIN FOKTLOCK,

I HAVEjuO: received your letter with
the bond or paper, from your mate.

I return you the paper, which is figned, but beg leave to temind

you that I think you have ufed me extremely ill throughout the

whole of this bufinefs, in retracing from your word, relative to

thethne.mcflAvhiohl wMtohavehadi one of mybeft men it

.^'^ ^'^ ^ hiMWIlilni

■■ MK * . . T -—.-

t »

•/

I '

IMTRODUCTORY VOVAOE.

fide of America. — There is alfb ftiake root
and ginfeng, fome of which the natives
bave always with them as a medicine,
though we never could procure any quan-
tity of it.

The woods are thick, and fpread over
about two-thirds of the afcent of the

mountains, which terminate in huge mafTcs

nnable to do his duty ; nor do T fuppofe he will be able during
the voyage: this, you muft befenJible, renders it more nrcefTary
for you to a6l with ttut humanity becoming a Britifh Aibjefl.

1 am, Sir, Your obedient Servant,

June ts, t^i^. j. mkares.

Sir,

To Henry Cox, Efq. Canitn.

AT fight, pleafe to pay Mr. Robert Hornc, car-
|ientcr of the King George, the funi of forty dollars, for work
done on board the Nootka ; which place to the account of, Sir,

Your mod obedient, humble Servant,

J. MEARES.
Snow Nootka, Port Etches, Prince ITilliam's
Sound, June 1 8 tli, 1787.

( N°. V. )

M»* CreflTelraan has delivered to me fome articles of the
Sandwich Iflands, as a prefent from you: As I am going there in
pcrfon, I truft to be able to procure fuch matters as I may want
of that nature; neverthelefs I am much obliged to you, but beg
leave to decline accepting any tnark of your attention.

^«fl^i8, 1787. lam. Sir,

Your obedient Servant,
7i Captain PpRTi.ocK. J. MEARES,

Before I conclude this note I flialt remark on the declaration of
Captain Dixon, in the account of his voyage, *' that the diforder
which fo feverely afflit^ed my crew, arofe from their uncontrolled
application to fpirituous liquors." In the firft place, the alTertion i»
not founded in fa^ ; and, fecondly. Captain Dixon's crew and
liimfelf being viftted by a fimiUr qffliflion, I have an equal right
40 ictyliate the fome accui»tion upon him«

ti-'

-y*a '^ffr*'^^'^11

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Ixf

of naked rock. The black pine, which
grows in great plenty, is capable of making
excellent fpars. We faw alio a few black
currant bufhes when we entered the Sound
in September, but no other kind of fruit or
any fpccics of vegetable. At that time, in-
deed, the. higli grounds were covered with
fnow, and tlie lowlands were an entire
fwamp from the ftreams of melted fnow
which flowed from above.

The only animals we faw were bears,
foxes, martens, mountain-ihecp, and the
ermine. — Of the latter we only killed two
pair, which were of a different fpecies.

Of geefe there were a great quantity
in the feafon, with various other fowls
of the aquatic fpecies ; but except the crow
and the eagle, we faw no birds that were
natives of the woods.

The article which the natives efteem
moft is iron, and they would prefer fuch
pieces as approached, in any degree, to
the form of a fpear. — Green glafs beads are
alfo much fought after, and at times thofe
which were red and blue. — They were very
fond of our woollen jackets, or any of the
old cloaths belonging to the Teamen.

They live entirely upon filh, but of all
others, they prefer the whale; and. as the

E oil *

INTRODUCTORY VOYAOEv

; '

'■m

r^H

u i

oil is wkh them the moft delicate part of
the fiih, they naturally efteem thofe moft
which poflefs an oily quality. — ^Thcy fel-
dom drefs their fi(h, hut when they do,
the fire is kindled by friftion with (bme of
the drieft pine wood ; and they have a kind
of baskets made of a fubftande which holds
water, into which a quantity of heated
ftones is put to make it boil ; but it is not
often that their food undergoes this unne-
ceflary and troublefome operation. In the
coWeft period of the winter we never faw
them employ their kitchen, which might,
perhaps, arife from local circumftances, that
encreafed the difficulty attending their cu-
linary exertions.

They are certainly a very favage race of
people, and poffefs an uncommon degree
of infenfibility to corporal pain. — Of this.
we had a very fingular proof on the follow-
ing occafion : — In the courfe of the winter,
among other rabbifli, feveral broken glaft
bottles had been thrown out of the (hip, and
one of the natives, who was fearching among
them to fee what he could find, cut his foot
in ? very fevere manner : on feeing it bleed,
we pointed out what had caufed the wound,
and applied a drefling to it, which wc made
him underftand was • the remedy we our-

I ' felves

%'<^l'

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Ixvii

fclves employed on fimilar occafions: but
he and his companions inftantly turned the
whole into ridicule ; and, atthe fame time,
taking fome of the glafs, they fcarified theix
legs and arms in a moft extraordinary man-
ner, informing us that nothing of that kind
could ever hurt them. "'

Such is the character and manners of the
people in whofe territory we pafled fuch a
deplorable feafon ; it was therefore with in-
finite joy we took our leave of the Cove on
the 2iftof June, and the following even ihg
we got out to fea. Our crew now coniifted
only of twenty- four people, including myfelf
and officers, with the two failors we got from
the King George ; having, alas ! buried
twenty-three men in this inhofpitable Sound.'
Thofe which remained, however, were all in
great fpirits, though fome of them had ndit
yet fufficiently recovered to go aloft. As
foon as we got clear of the land, the wind
-hung much to the Southward, and brought
a thick fog along with it. As this weathct
was very unfavourable to people in our Hate,
it was thought advifable to keep near the
coaft.

We had now been at fea ten days, 'anil
liad got no further to the Southward than
57*. Our people alfo, from being wet on

El ^«ck|k

■,*,■

Ixviii INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

deck, began to complain of pains in their
legs, which fwelled fo much, that feveral of
them were obliged to keep their beds. — It
was determined, therefore, to ftand in for
land, which was not above forty leagues
diftant. We accordingly made a very high
peak of a Angular form, as the inhabitants
in its neighbourhood were of Angular man-
ners and appearance.

When we got pretty well in with the
ihore, a confiderable number of canoes came
ofF to us, which were of a very different
conflru£tion from thole in the Sound. Tliey
were made from a folld tree, and many of
them appeared to be from fifty to feventy
feet ip leni;th, but very narrow, being no
broader than the tree itfelf. — But of all the
beings we ever faw in human (hape, the
women were the moft ftrauge and hideous.
*rhey have all a cut in their under-lip, (imi-
lar to the men of Prince William's Sound,
but much larger, it being a full inch fur-
,ther in the cheek on either fide. — In this
aperture iheyhavea piece of wood of at leaft
feveii inches in circumference, of an oval
ihape, of about half an inch thick, which
has a groove round the edges, that keeps
it Ready in the orifice. This unaccountable
cputrivance difteuds the lips from the te^th,
. r and

■ -W i r ii i i - i M i ) <)! |y>w

Isix

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

and gives the countenance the moft difguft-
"ing appearance which we believe the hu-
man face to be capable of receiving. — Thefe
people appeared not unacquainted with the
natives of the Sound, when we defcribed
them as having double mouths: indeed
their languages feemed to have affinity to
each other, but thefe people appeared to form
a much more numerous tribe.— They had
never been feen before by any navigator,
and had not a favourable wind fprung up
in the n'ght, we intended to have pafled a
few days among them. — The latitude of
this part of the coalt Is in 56° 38' North,
and the longitude 223" o' 25" Eaft of Green-
wich.

A Northerly wind now fprung up, and
brought clear weather along with it, which
continued till we made the ifland of Owhy-
hee. Our paffage from the continent was
fortunately very (hort ; but if we had not
been blefled with a continuance of fine and
favourable weather, the ftate of the (hip
was fuch, as to make it a matter of doubt
whether we (hould have reached the Sand-
wich Iflands. Still, however,, the horrid
diforder beneath which the crew had fo long
laboured, continued to accompany us, and one
man died before we gained the falubrious

clime,

M ^i'i

-If)

1 1

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGB.

<:limey whofc zephyrs may be faid to have
borne health on their wings ; for in ten days
niter we arrived at the iflands, every com-
plaint had difappeared from among us.

We remained here a month, during which
time the iflanders appeared to have no otb.er
pleafure but what arofe from (hewing kind-
ncfs and exercifinghofpitality to us. — They
received us with joy — and they faw us de-
part with tears. Among the numbers who
preffed forward, with inexpreffible eagernefs,
to accompany us to Bntannee, — Tianna, a
'ichief of Atooi, and the brother of the fo-
, vereign of that ifland, was alone received to
embark with u^, amid the envy of all his
countrymen. Of this amiable man I (hall
add nothing in this place, as he will be ra-
ther a confpicuous, and I am difpofed to
believe, ah interefting character in the fuc-
ceeding pages of this volume.

On the 2d of September, we left the Sand-
wich Iflands, leaving behind us, as we have
every reafon to beljeve, the moft favourable
impreflions of our condudt and charaAer
-with the iilhabitants of them, -^ and grateful,
on our part, for the generous. friend(hip and
anitious ferviccs w« received from them.—
After a very favourablfc voyage, carrying
ithe trade winds through the whole of it, we

arrived

• *t*t

, » , ,

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.

hsi

arrived in theTypa, an harbour near Macao» '
on the 20th of 0<9:ober »78;7.

We had, however, fcarcely come to an an-
chor, when the weather began to wear th©
appearance of an approaching ilorm, which
oui' (battered veflfel was by no means in a
ftate to encounter. We were alfo very much
alarmed on feehig two French frigates, as
they appeared,riding at anchor, about a mile
from us. The minds of people fo long ha«
rafled with hardihips, and fecluded from all
political intelligence, were not in a ftate to
form favourable conjectures, particularly as
it was fuch an uncooimon circumftance ta
fee French (hips of war in thefe feas. When
therefore, we faw feveral boats filled with
troops putting off from them, we concluded
the worft. Having no confidence in the pro-
tedlion of a neutral port, we began to look
towards a ftate of captivity as the concluding
fcene of our misfortunes. Thefe boats,
however, paflfed by us, as we afterwards
learned, to board a Spanifh merchantman, in'
fearch of runaway failors. The French
(hips proved to be the Calypfo frigate of 36
guns, and a ftore (hip, commanded by the
Count de Kergarieu.— But, as if we were
deftined to be perfecuted by difafters to the
laft, we had no fooner loft our apprehen(ioii

bxii

INTRODUCTORY VOYAGt.

of human enemies, than we wereaffailed hy
elementary foes ; for fuch was the violent .
gale which now came on, that the Calypfo '
frigate could with difficulty preferve her
flation with five anchors. The fituation of
the Nootka, therefore, who had only one
left, maybe better conceived than defcribed.
After adding a few more hair-breadth efcapes
to thofe from which (he had already been
providentially delivered, we were obliged to
run her alhore, as the only means of pre-
fervation. This was, however, happily ef-
fected by theadive affiftance of the Count
de Kergarieu, his officers and Teamen, of
whofe generous, and, I may add, indefati-
gable fervices, I am happy to make this page
a grateful, though imperfe(5t record.
It is with the moft painful fenfatipns, that
while I exprefs the moft grateful aftonifli-
ment at the prefervation of myfelf, and the
remainder of my crew from the imminent
dangers and difafters which we encountered,
I am to lament the fate of our coufort, the
Otter Sloop, Captain Tipping. — No tidings
have been received of her after {he left Prince
William's Sound. We muft conclude there-
fore that (he and her people have periflied
beneath the waves.

THE

It *

VOYAGES

TO T H £

NORTH WEST gOASr OF AMERICA^

In the Years 1788, and 1789, Csfr.

CHAP. I.

Preparations for the Voyage, — Tiantta, a
Prince of the IJland Arooi, and other ,

Natives of the Sandwich Isles embark,-^
Charadler of Tianna. — Complement of the •

Crew of both Ships, — ^antity of Cattle, Sec,
embarked for the Sandwich Isles. — De^- .
parture of the Felice and Iphigenia
from China,

IN the month of January I788, in con- 1788*
junction with feveral Britifh merchants ^^^^^^^*
relident in India, I purchafed and fitted out
two veffels, named the Felice and the Iphi-
genia : the former was of 230 tons burthen,
and the latter of aoo* They were calcu-

A lated.

VOYAGES TO THE

" I

1788. lated, in every refpeft, for their dcftined
January, voyage, being good failers, copper-bot-
tomed, and built with fufficient ftrength
to refift the tempeftuous weather fo much
to be apprehended in the Northern Pacific
Ocean, during the winter feafon.

It was originally intended that they fliould
have failed from China the beginning of
the feafon, but the difficulty of procuring
a fufficient quantity of ftores neceflary for
the voyage, delayed the (hips till the 20th
"of this month, when they were completely
equipped and ready for fea.

One of the (hips was deftined to remain
out a much longer time than the other.
It was intended, that at the clofe of the
autumn of this year, (he (hould quit the
coaft of America, and fleer to the Sand-
wich Iflands, for the purpofe of wintering
there ; (he was then ttp return to America,
in order -fp meet he^' con fort from China,
with a fupply of neceflTary ftores and re-
fre(hments, fufficient for the eftabli(hing
fa(ftories, and extending the plan of com-
merce in which we had engaged.

The crewG of thefe (hips confifted of
Europeans and China-men, with a larger

pro-

■!f "^

NORTH WlLST COAST OF AMERICA.

proportion of the former. The Chinefe 1^88*
were, on this occafion, (hipped as an ex- J^nuart
periment : they have been generally efteem-
cdan hardy, and induftrious, as well as in*
gen ions race of people; they live on fifli and
rice, and, requiring but low wages, it was
a matter alfo of tieconomical confideratioii
to employ them ; and during the whole of
the voyage there was every reafon to be
fatisfied with their fervices.— If hereafter
trading pofts (hould be eftablifhed on the
American coaft, a colony of thefe men
would be a very impoiwant acquifition.

The command of the Iphigenia was given
to Mr. Douglas, an officer of confiderable
merit, who was well acquainted with the \\
coaft of America, and, on that account,
was the moft proper perfon to be entrufted
with the charge of conducting this com-
mercial expedition. The crew contained
artificers of various denominations, among
whom were Chinefe fmiths and carpen-
ters, as well as European artizans ; form-
ing, in the whole, a complement of forty
men.

The crew of the Felice was compofed of
the fame ufeful and neceflary clafics of peo-

A 2 . pie, ' •

! H

VOVAOES TO THB

^ \* '• '>> ' ^

'm^

\
i

1788. pie, and amounted to fifty men : — this (hip
January, ^^s Commanded by myfelf.

A much greater number of Chinefe foli-
cited to enter hito this fervice than could
be received ; and fo far did the fpirit of
cnterprize influence them, that thofe we
were under the neceffity of refufing, gave
■ the moft unequivocal marks of mortifi-
cation and difappointment. — From the many
who offered themfelves, fifty were felefted,
^ as fully fufficient for the purpofes of the
voyage: they were, as has been already
obferved, chiefly handicraft-men, of vari-
ous kinds, with a fmall proportion of failors
who had been ufed to the junks which na-
; vigate every part of the Chinefe feas.

In a voyage of fo long continuance, and
fuch various climates, very ferious and natu-
ral apprehenfions were entertained of the
inconveniencies and dangers arifing from
the fcurvy, that cruel fcourge of maritime
life. Every precaution therefore that hu-
manity or experience could fuggeft, was
taken to prevent its approach, to leflen its
violence, and efFed its cure : large quan-
tities of molafles, with fufficient propor-
tions of tea, fugar, and every other article

that

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. j

that might contribute to thefe falutary 1^38.
ends, were carefully provided. Each veflel January.
carried near five months water, allowing
one gallon per day for each pcrfon on
board, a plentiful fupply of which being
one of the moft efFedlual preventives of
this diforder. Warm cloathing of every
kind was provided for the crews, as well
Chinefe as Europeans : — In fliort, every
thing was procured that China produced,
to render both veflels as complete as pofli-
ble, and to enfure, as far as human means
could be exerted, fuccefs to the voyage, and
comfort to every denomination of people
who were employed in it.

Among other objects of this voyage there
was one, at leaft, of the moft difinterefted
nature, and the pureft fatisfadion ; and
that was to take back, to their refpe6live
homes, thofe people who had been brought
from America and the Sandwich Iflands.
A certain number of cattle and other ufe-
ful animals were purchafed and taken on
board, for the purpofe of being put on
Ihore at thofe places where they might add
to the comfort of the inhabitants, or pro-
mife to fupply the future navigator, of

A3 , our

1^1

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(716)«73-4S03

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5 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. our own, or any other country, with the
j/NUARY. iicceflhry refrefhments.

In fuIfilJhig this pleafing duty to thefe
children of nature, whom a curious fpirit
and an unfufpeding charadter had led to
Aich a diftance from their native country,
a very marked attention was paid to Tianna,
a prince of the ifland of Atooi, a chief
of illuftrious birth and high rank, who,
in the year 1787, was carried by me to
China, and who now afforded us the plea-
fure of reftoring him to his country and
Iiis kindred, witli a mind enlarged by the
new fccnes and pictures of life which he
had beheld, and in the poffeflion of various
articles of ufeful application, or compara-
tive mngnificence, which would render him
the richeft inhabitant of his native iflands.

Mr. Cox, a commercial gentleman refi-
dent in China, was among thofe whom Ti-
anna regarded with that warm efteem which
repeated kindnefs never fails to excite in a
grateful mind : and it would not be doing
juftice to this amiable Indian, if he were
not reprefented as poffefling many of thofe
^ jentimcnts which do honour to the moft
cultivated undei (lauding. Mr, Cox not only

»>i

■^jPi

•4l«.

''•**Kr«Ks--.*«v.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

manifeflcd a general intereft in the honour 1 788.
and happinefs of Tianna's future life, by J*=*"*»^'
the generous confignment of a confidcrable
quantity of live cattle and other animals to
the ifland of Atooi, but, with the moft
attentive humanity, defired even to indulge
his unrefleding fancy, by appropriating a
fum of money to be expended as his own
untutored choice or wayward preference
fhould direft. This kind arrangement was,
however, neceffarily fet afide; and the im-
perfe£t judgment of the chief fupplied by
the better fuggeftions of his European
friends ; who directed the expenditure of
the allotted fum, to procure him thofe com-
forts and advantages which might laft du-
ring his life, and tend to the improvement
of his nation, inftead of gratifying the
momentary whim for thofe objeds which
he himfelf might, at a future period, per-
haps, learn to defpife.

The time that could be fpared from the
equipment of the Ihips, was in a great
meafure, dedicated to this amiable chief,
who was with difficulty made to conceive
the information that he was fo foon to em-
bark for his own iflands ; from whence,

. A4 «4 •

VOYAGB8 TO THE

U i

k I

m ■

1788. ^^^ ^^^ wonders of the new world to which
Jamvary, he had been introduced, were not fufficient
to feparate his affe^ions. The love of his
country, a principle which feems to be in*
herent in the human mind, in every ftate,
and under every clime, operated forcibly
upon him. Thofd domeflic affections which
are the fupport of all fociety, as well as
the univerfal fource of happinefs ; and
that parental fentibility which, in a greater
or lefs degree, influences all animated na**
ture, from the higher order of man to the
inferior claffes of the animal world, did
not lofe their energies in the breaft of
Tianna. His reflection had often fickened
at the thought of his family and his coun-
try ; and the gaze of his aftonifhment fre-
quently yielded to the intrufive gloom of
painful thought ;~Twhile the fame hour has
often feen him fmile with delight at the
novelties which he beheld around him, and
weep, with bitter lamentations, the far
dc arer objects he had left behind, when he
reflected that he might behold them no
more.

When, therefore, he was affured of his
approaching return to AtQoi,— *the idea that

4 .

^^;t-

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 4

he (hould again embrace the wife whom 1 788.
he loved, and the child on whom he doted, Januart.
with all the added confequence which
would accompany him, from the knowledge
he had acquired, the wealth he poffefled,
and the benefits he (hould communicate to
the place of his nativity, produced thofe
tranfports which fenfible mmds may con-
ceive, but which language is unable to de«
fcribe.

To give a minute defcription of his cofi-
dud, behaviour, and fentiments, on his
arrival at Canton, might be confidered as
an unavailing digreffion, unworthy of r- at
curiofity which it is the office of thefe vo-
lumes to gratify. — It may not, however, be
improper to obfervc, that he difcovered a
mind pofleflbd of thofe capacities which
education might have nurtured into inteN
leftual fuperiority, and endued with thofe
{enfibilities which forbid enlightened reafon
from applying the name of favage to any
human being, of any colour or country,
who poffefl'es them.

When he firft beheld the (hips at Wam-
poa, his aftonifliment pofleffed an adivity
which baffles defcription, and he emphati-
cally

■ •

■i

fi 1 *,

' )

VOYAGES TO THE

.!'

1 788. cally called them the iflands of Britannee ;
Janvart. but^hen he had furveyed their internal ar-
rangement, with all the various apparatus
they contained, the immediate imprefllons
they occafioned on his mind were thofe
of deje£lion ; he hung his head in filence,
and fhed an involuntary tear, as it appeared,
over what he conceived to be his own in-
ferior nature. — But the fame fpirit which
urged him to quit his native country, in
order to return with knowledge that might
inftrudl, and arts that might improve it,
foon aroufed him into an a£tive and rational
curiofity. Indeed he very (hortly manifefted
no common degree of intelledlual exertion,
by difcriminatuig, as occadon offered, be-
tween the people of the feveral European
nation s» whom he daily faw, and thofe of
England, whom he always called the men
oi Britannee. — The natives of China he con-
(idered with a degree of difguft which bor-
dered on extreme averfion ;- their bald
heads, diftended noftrib, and unmeaning
features, had raifed in his mind the ftrongeft
fenfations of contempt : — Indeed it might be
owing to the addition which the natural
dignity of his perfon may be fuppofed to

re-

It,

J!L

NORTH WEST COAST OF AM6RICA.

receive from fuch a prevailing fentiment, 1788.
whenever he found liimfelf amongft them, Jakuart.
that the Chinefe appeared to regard him
with awe, and that, wherever he turned,
the timid crowd never failed to open to
him a ready paflage.

Tianna was about thirty- two years of
age ; he was near fix feet five inches in
flature, and the mufcular form of his limbs
was of an Herculean appearance. His car-
riage was replete with dignity, and having
lived in the habits of receiving the refpedb
due to fuperior rank in his own country, he
pofllffed an air of diftin£tion, which we will
not fuppofe could fuflfer any diminution
from his obfervation of European manners.
He wore the drefs of Jiiurope with the ha-
bitual eafe of its inhabitants, and had not
only learned the ufc and arrangement of
its various articles, but applied his know-
ledge to the uniform and moft minute
pradice of perfonal clean linefs and deco-
rum. The natural habits of his mind,
however, occalionally recurred, and the
childifh fancy of his native ftate would
fometimes intrude upon and interrupt the
progrefs of his improvement. He could

not

I I

-rti.

i /, i

./,*»'»-. -^ --

( 1

ti
li

VOYAGESTOTHE

788. not be taught to underftand the value of
NUARY. our current coin, and when he wanted any
thing that was to be purchafed by it, he
would innocently alk for iron ; which being
the moft valuable metal in his eyes, was
naturally confidered by him as the medium
of barter among other nations.

To return Tianna to his native ifland,
operated very powerfully in forming the
arrangements of the voyage before us : —
his original defign and inclination was to
proceed to England ; and Captain Churchill,
of the Walpole Eaft Indiaman, offered, in
the kindefl manner, to take him under his
protc6lion, nor could he have found a bet-
ter protestor ; but to confign him to ano-
ther's care, and to fend him to a country
from whence there might be no future op-
portunity of returning to his own, was a
bufinefs that his friends could not recon-
cile to their feelings. The permitting him
to leave Atooi, was confidered as an unre-
fle£bing ad; and it was now determined
that Tianna ftiould return thither, if not,
in reality, happier than before, at leaft pof-
feflbd of treafures beyond any poilible ex-
pe<Station of his unexperienced mind. But

re 1 1

ifV'

BTti^^Jfclwf'

KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

of all the various articles which formed 1788.
his prefent wealth, his fancy was the moft Januart.
delighted with a portrait of himfelf, painted
by Spoilum, the celebrated artift of China,
and perhaps the only one in his line,
throughout that extenfive empire. The
painter had, indeed, moft faithfully repre-
fented the lineaments of his countenance,
but found the graceful figure of the chief
beyond the powers of his genius. The
furprife that Tianna exprefled, as the work
proceeded, was various and extreme, and
feemed to follow with continual change
every added ftroke of the pencil. When
this painting was prefented to him, he re-
ceived it with a degree of folemnity that
ftruck all who beheld it ; and then, in a
ftate of agitation in which he had never
been feen by us, he mentioned the cataf-
trophe which deprived the world o£ Cap-
tain Cook. He now, for the f rft time,
informed us that a fierce war ii id been
waged throughout the iflands, on account
of a painting, which he called a portrait of
that great man, and which had been left
with oneof their moft potent chiefs. This
pidure, he added, was held facred amongft
J - tliem.

ri I

K • ir

■ »■.

I
I

1^ VOYAGES TO THE

1788. ^Hcm, and the refpc<5l they paid to it was
January. conHdcred by them as the only retribution
they could make for their unfortunate de^*
flrudlion of its original. f

It may not, perhaps, be thought impro*
per, if a Ihort digrelTion is made in this
place, in order to ftate, that during our for-
mer ftay* among thefe iflanders, we had
every opportunity of cftimating their feel-
ings with refpe6t to the lamented fate of
Captain Cook, and we have every reafoti
to believe that thefe diflant inhabitants
of the watery wafte, accompanied with
fincere forrow, the regret of Europe.-—
The numbers of them which furrounded
the (hip, with a view to obtain permiffion
to go to Britannee^ to the friends of their
beloved Cook, are incredible. They wept
and folicited with an ardour that con-
quered every previous averfion. Prefents
were poured in upon us from the chiefs,
who were prevented by the multitude from
approaching the veflel, and the clamorous
cry of Bn'tannee^ Britannee, was for along
time vociferated from every part, and with«»

♦ Some account of this voyage is given in the In-
trodu£tiou4

. ^ out

••«->

•f ;».i—

KQRTW west coast of AMERICA. fi

outceafing: nor can their (ilent grief be iy88.
defcribed, when it was niade known among JAt*"**^*
them, that Tianna, a prince of Atooi, was
the only one feie^ed to the envied honour
of failing with us.

Previous to our departure, Taheo, the
king of that ifland, paid us a vifit, accom-
panied by all his chiefs. As they believed
that the commanders of every European
fhip who had touched at their iflands ilnce
the death of Captain Cook, were the fons
of that illuflrious navigator, they, in the
moft afFedting manner, deplored that event ;
and while each of them was follcitous to
affert his own innocence, they united In
reprefenting the paflions that had urged
them to commit the fatal deed — which
would be a fubjecfl of their eternal contri-
tion — as a punifhment inflided on them by
their gods. After thefe, and many fimilar
declarations, they renewed their offers of
friendship to Britannee, and departed ; nor
have we the lead doubt but that future
navigators, who may chance to flop at
thefe iflands, will find there a fecure and
welcome afylum.

- The

^^»

>A ' "

I hi
' I-

'».'

('/

.1)

•I

VOYAGRS TO THE

1788. The other natives of the Sandwich Ifles
January, j^j^j America, who were received on board,
had been brought to China, by different
(hips, rather as object of curiofity, than
from che better motive of inftru£tion to
them, or advantage to commerce : —they
confided of a woman of the ifland of Owy-
hee, named Winee, who was in a bad and
declining ftate of health ; a flout man and
boy from the iOand of Mowee, and a native
of King George*s Sound ; the barbarous
nature of whofe inhabitants rendered it an
ufelefs experiment to accompany him with
any of thofe advantages provided for the
others.

On board of each fhip were embarked
fix cows and three bulls, four bull and cow
calves, a number of goats, turkies, and
rabbits, with feveral pair of pigeons, and
other flock in great abundance. Unfortu«
nately it was not in our power, at this time,
to procure (heep; but feveral lime and
orange-trees were purchafed and deflined
for Atooi, as Taheo, the fovereign of that
• ifland, poflelTed all the power necefTary to
prote£l fuch valuable property. Had we
been fo fortunate as to have landed all the

cargo

;::r::^--- -

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

cargo prepared for the Sandwich Iflands, i^gg,
they would have become the moft eligible Janua»t.
places for refrefhment in the whole extent
of the Northern Pacific Ocean. If, how-
ever, the American commerce (hould be

purfued, very confiderable advantages will
be found to rcfult even from that part of
our defign which was compleated.

On the evening of the lad of January, Friday »»;
both fhips weighed from the Typa to pro-
ceed to fea; but it falling calm fhortly
after, and the tide of flood fetting againft
us, the fignal was made for anchoring^
which was accordingly performed in the
roads, in fix fathoms, over a muddy bot-
tom. The Iphigenia being in a ftronget
part of the tide, was driven farther up the
roads, and anchored about two miles aftern •
of us. We here found riding, the Argyle-
ftiire, a large country fhip, of between
fix and feven hundred tons, bound to Ben-
gal : — ihe was afterwards unfortunately loft
in her palTage from Bengal to China, and
every foul on board fuppofed to have pe-
rifhedk

' If

')!

CHAP.

(•

-> j» -^-

i-ssusir** —

■ ij»

i3
1788.

January.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. II.

The Ipiiigenia /prints her Foremaft. — P*{/*-
fige to the Philippines. — Sail along the Coajl
of Luconia.—Pafs Goat IJland, the Ijlei of
Luban, JJland of Mindoro and the Cala*
mines, — Scurvy breaks out on Board the
Iphigenia. — Pafs the IJland of Panay. —
Mutinous Condudi of the Crew on board
the Felice, &c.

I'i

iMi

Friday jj.

ABOUT nine o'clock in the evening,
an air of wind fprung up from the
South Eaft, which, though diredlly againft
us, determined us to put to. fea ; and the
iignal was made to the Iphigenia to weigh.
By ten o'clock both (hips were under fail,
the wind light and variable from the fouth-
ward. — We continued landing to the Grand
Ladrone until midnight, when it became
extremely foggy, which occafioned us to
ihorten fail for the Iphigenia, which was
confiderably aftern. The foundings were
regular, from f< -ir to fix fathoms, over a
nniddy bottom. — We now loft fight of the
5 Argylc-

*»,

.^'»

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

Argylefliire, who alfo weighed and pro- 1788.
ceeded to the South Weft. January.

The morning of the 23d was extremely Saturday J3.
foggy ; and in the night we had loft fight
of the Iphigenia. — The wind now veered
to the Eaft North Eaft, and began to
frcflien up ; on which a fignal was made
with two guns to the Iphigenia, to get
the larboard tacks on board, and ftand to
the South Eaft. — At noon the fog cleared
away, when the Iphigenia was perceived
about a league to leeward of us. — During
the night we kept firing guns, and beating
the gongs* J in order that (he might judge
of our lituation. By obfervation, our lati-
tude was 20° 54' North, and longitude
114° 24' Eaft; the South Weftern part of
the Prata ftioal bore in the direftion of South, '
73° Eaft, diftant 40 leagues ; Cape Bolinou,
South, 50° Eaft, diftant 419 miles.

As it was our intention to make the
coaft of Luconia well to windward, we

* A China gong refembles, in fome degree, the form
ofalieve; and is made of a mixture of metals. The
China janks ufc them as bells; and, when they are
ftruck with a wooden mallet, produce a deep, fonorous
noife.

B 2 refolved

t ki

~ss^^

■i;

f .

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. refblved to keep as much as poflible to the
January. Eaftward, being apprehenfive of experien-
cing fouthcrly currents at this feafon of
the year. — We preferred making the coaft
of Luconia to that of Mindoro, or the Ca-
lamines, the coaft of the latter being fur-
rounded with numerous fhoals, rocks, and
fragments of iflets, which render the navi-
gation extremely dangerous, and require
the greateft precaution in failing through
fuch an extenfive Archipelago. — The charts
of thefe feas, by Mr. Dalrymple, moft
certainly poflefs a great degree of accuracy,
but are, as we fuppofe, necelTarily formed
on fuch a confined fcale, and marked with
fuch extreme delicacy, as to leiien their
intended utility for the common purpofes
of navigation.^ — By adhering to this track we
hoped to experience lefs boifterous weather,
from being fheltered, in fome meafure, by
the coaft of Luconia, and at the fame time
to fteer clear of many dangerous fhoals,
which lie at fome diftance from its coaft,
and are, indeed, fcattered throughout thefe
feas.
Monday 25 The courfc was continued to the South
Eaft, till the 25th ; the weather gloomy

and

NORTH W2ST COAST OF AMERICA.

and unpleafant; the wind blowing fteadily 1788.
from the Eaft North Eaft, and North Eaft January.
by Eaft, with a very heavy fea. The lati-
tude, at noon, was iS'' North; the lon-
gitude 117° I ' Eaft. The South Maroona
fhoal bearing North 61** Eaft, diftance 49
leagues ; Cape Bolinou 62° Eaft, diftant 67
leagues.

The Iphigenia proved but an heavy
failer, when compared with the Felice, To
that we were continually obliged to flior-
ten fail on her account ; an inconvenience
which we determined to get rid of, by fepa-
rating company from her, and making the
beft of our way, as foon as we had got
clear of the Sooloo Sea.

In the evening we fpoke with the Iphi- .
genia, when Captain Douglas informed us
that the ftiip had fprung a leak in the late
bad weather, above the copper, which obli-
ged him to keep one pump going, but that
he hoped to ftop it the firft favourable mo-
ment. — ^This accident occafioned no incon-
fiderable degree of uneafinefs, — Circum-
ftances of this kind have a very unpleafant
tendency to diftiearten feamen, who, with
all their hardy courage, arc very fubject

Ml >

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. to be influenced by fuperflitious omens of
January. tJ^g j^oft trifling and ridiculous nature;
and which, if they (hould happen in the
beginning of a voyage, will frequently ope-
rate upon their minds and conduct through
the moft lengthened courfe of it.

Our China crew were all extremely afi^e£led
by fea-ficknefs, which was a very difcoura-
gingcircumftancc ; and the ex ce Hive rolling
and tumbling of the fliip, caufed the cattle
to droop ; indeed, from the appaient im-
poffibility of preferving them all, during
fuch a long voyage, — from the want of pro-
per food, and as there were a greater quan-
tity on board than were ncccflkry to flock
the iflands to which they were dcflhied,— ^
it was thought proper to kill them all but
two cows and a bull, and one bull and one
cow calf, who might, we hoped, become
enured to the voyage, and be prt ferved to
their deftination. Accordingly two ot them
were killed, and frefli meat ferved to ;he
. crew, with barley, which made them com-
fortable mefles. '
During the evening it blew very flrong
indeed, with an heavy fea. — Wc continued
. " ^vinding to the South Eaft, in the hope of

being

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

being able to weather the North Maroona ,^88.
flioal ; the pofition of which, according to Januait.
Mr. Dalrymple, is extremely doubtful ;—
we therefore kept the beft look-out in our
power.

At five o'clock we were alarmed, by per-
ceiving that the Iphigenia fpread abroad
the fignal of diftrefs, which denoted, at
the fame time, that (he was not in want of
immediate afliftance: we however inftantly
bore up and fpoke to her ; when Captain
Douglas informed us that his fore-maft was
fo dangeroufly fprung, that feme method
muft be immediately taken to fecure it ;
but the fea ran fo high, and it blew at
the fame time fo ftrong, that we were pre-
vented from affording any afli fiance what-
ever; we (hortened fail, however, immedi-
ately ; and before night the Iphigenia had
her fore-top-maft and top-gallant- maft on
deck, and her foremaft entirely il ripped.

It was now abfolutely neceflary for us to
keep under what poflible fail we could ; and
as the Iphigenia was able to keep abroad her
main-topfail, main-fail, and mizen, to give
thefe fails their proper tffcO: during the
night, we kept two points from the wind,

B 4 under

i i I

VOYAGE! TO THE

1788. under an eafy fail, giving up all hopes of
January, weathering the North Maroona, and being
doubtful even of keeping our wind fuiHci^
ent to weather the South Maroona, which
is defcribed as extremely dangerous, and
whofe fituation is as uncertain as that of the
Northern Ihoalof the fame name. — It blew
very hard during the night, with a heavy
fea ; the Iphigenia appearing to labour cx-
peedingly.

This was, indeed, a very unfortunate
event ; the weather we had to encounter
was very much to be dreaded, and the
crippled ftate of the Iphigenia*s maft greatly
- increafed our apprehcnfions ; as, in cafe it
ihould meet with any further injury, there
was no friendly port nearer to us than
Batavia, where we fliould be able to re-
place it. Our fituation, driven as we were
about thofe feas, and furrounded by danger-
V ' ous ihoals, was truly dlArefling and alarm-
ing. — It was impoflible for us to make the
land, a$ we might be thrown into a fituation
ivhich would encreafe the danger of the
Iphigenia ; and as to leaving her in fo dif-
trefFed a condition, fuch a defign did not
pccur to us for a moment \ b^fides, we were

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA*

not without apprchenfions of being driven ,^88.
too far to the Southward, which would rcn- January,
der it impoffible for us to get hold of the
coaft of Luconia, Mindoro or the Calamines,
and under fuch circumftances, inftead of
making the paffage of the Sooloo Sea, we
ihould have been obliged to take our courfe
through the Straits of Sunda, and reach
the Northern Pacific Ocean by the Straits
of Macaffar, of which, after all, we were
rather doubtful ; or, by doubling the South
Eaftern extremity of New Holland, if we
ihould give up the paffage of the Endea-
vour's Straits — It is very eafy to conceive
the uneafinefs we fufFered from the bare pro-^
fpe£t of fuch a circuitous navigation.

The weather did not moderate until the
twenty-fixth at noon: the latitude was '
then 17° 5' North, and the longitude 118"
Eaft. The South Weftern end of the North
Maroona bore in the diredlion of South Eaft,
diftant thirty leagues. We kept ftandiug
towards it during the night under fuch {a\\
as the Iphigenia could fpread, and we very
much wiftied to have lent a boat on board
her: but, on a fudden, the weather became
^s tempeftuous as ever, fo that we could

neither

' ,

2$ VOYAGES TO THE

1788. neither fend carpenters or plank to her aiUfl-

Janvaky. ance.— a ftage had been erefted round her
mad head, but a great hollow fea increafed
our alarms for her fituation.

This day, another of the cattle was kil-
led for the crew ; indeed, the exceflive tum-
bling and rolling of the (hips made us defpair
of faving any of them ; two of the fined
goats having already been cruflied by a fud-
dcn roll of _the fhip. — -During the night it
blew extremely hard, with a great hollow
fea. — We kept fleering to the South Eaft,
frequently bringing too for the Iphigenia,

,r fhe being under fuch fmall fail.

This unfavourable weather continued
till the 27th, at noon. The latitude was
16'' 20' North, and longitude 119'* 12' Eaft.
The obfervation, however, was but of little
dependence, from the variety of currents
which we experienced. The wind had
veered to the Northward, and we hauled

■ -_ up Eaft South Eaft, proportioning our fail

to that of the Iphigenia. It was, indeed,
apprehended, that an Eafterly current had
fet us to the Weftward, as our latitude was
16° 20' North, without feeing any thing of
; , the Ihoal. As we could not fuppofe it pof-
^ / - (ible

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

fible that we fhould be to the Eaftward of 178S.
the Marooiia, we were under the necefliiy Januart.
of hauling to the Eaft, as much as the run-
ning of a very high fea would permit.

In the evening we fpoke with Captain
Douglas, who informed us that the head of
his foremaft was entirely rotten, and that
it was with great difficulty the carpenters^
could proceed in their attempts to fccure it
from the high, roUing fea. — Before night,
however, we had the latisfa<5lion of feeing
the Iphigenia's fore-top over head, and her
lower rigging fet up; fo that our fears of
being driven to the fouthward of Mindoro,
in fome meafurc fubfided. : . ■

It was, however, determined, that, from
the great extent of feas we had to crofs, the
rilk would be too great for the Iphigenia, in
her prelent ftate, to attempt fuch a paflage
without having her maft well fecured; or,
if condemned, to be replaced by another. —
It was therefore refolved to call a furvey of
the carpenters on it, the firft favourable
moment ; and it was abfolutely ncceilliry to
fix immediately on fome place where the
repairs that (hould be found requifite could
he accompiilhed. The Spanifli fettlement of

Sam-

i'l

VOYAGES TO THE

I".

1788. Samboingan, on the Southern extrennity of
January. Magittdanao, was conHdered as the beft place
for OUT purpofe ; and though we had fcarcely
ever heard of it, and the hofpitality of the
Spaniards was always to be doubted, our
neceflity obliged us to fuch a determination,
rather than proceed to Batavia, or encounter
the coaft of New Holland.

This evening, we paiTed great quantities
of rock-weed and drift-wood, which made
us apprehenfive of falling in with the fhoals.
Thurfday is. In the morning, the ifland of Luconia
was difcerned from the maft-head, bearing
from Eaft North Eaft, to Eaft South Eaft,
djAant 1 2 or 14 leagues, and bore an high
and mountainous appearance. As we clofed
in with the land, the weather became mo-
derate and fine, and the fea entirely fub-
fided. The Iphigenia had got up her fore
top-maft. At noon the obferved latitude
was 16° 16' North; fo that, during the
laft twenty-four hours, we had experienced
a ftrong Northerly current.

Nothing can more ftrongly prove the dan-
ger of navigating the China feas, than
the variety of contrary currents which we
experienced in fo Oiort a time; — During

the

i'^

^^*iHii

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. -g

the greater part of the North Eaft Mon- 1788.
foon, it has been generally obferved, that Januart.
a Northerly current fets along the coad:
of Luconia, as far as Cape Bolinou : there
the great body of water rulhing through
the ftraits which form the paffage between
Formofa, this Ifland, and the Babuyanes,
checks this current, and turns it into the
China Sea, where it receives a Southerly
dire^ion, at the diftance of 1 5 or 20 leagues
from the coafl of Luconia.

The currents, at all periods of the North
Eaft Monfoon, run ftrongly to the South-
ward in thofe feas, excepting near Luconia ;
but the ftreams of them acquire greater
force at the diftance of 30 or 40 leagues
from the (hores of this ifland, than they do
off the coaft of China : this circumftance
may be occafioned by the jundion .of the
waters palling through the ftraits of Luco-
nia, and thofe between China and Formofa.
Ships bound for China, which are late in •
the feafon, might avail themfelves of thefe
currents to reach Cape Bolinou, when an
eafy and pretty fecure paflage is open to
Canton. Indeed, bordering on the coaft of
Luconia may be attended with great advan-
3 ' tages;

•O VOYAGES TO THE

1788. tngcs ; for, independent of this Northerly
January, current, fine Weather is generally experi-
enced. At times, variahlc winds ;— in the
very height of the Nortli Eaft Monfoon, it
has fomctimes been known to blow a fmart
gale from the South Weft.

As our apprehenfions Imd continued to
incrcafe of being drifted to the fouthward,
the fatisf;\<Slion we felt at thus getting in
with the land may be eafily conceived. —
Towards the evening of this day it fell
.calm; but, about nine o'clock, a frcfli
breeze fprung up from the South Weft,
which made us ftand on our tacks, for the
night, on and off ftiore ; where we faw
feveral fires, which remained burning du-
ring the greater part of the night. Our
diftance was between fix and {even leagues.
jFridayag. In the morning, the land bore from
^ North North Eaft, to South South Eaft,

our diftance being about fix leagues : — it
appeared very mountainous, and was co-
vered with wood, except in fome detached
places, on the declivity of the mountains.
Vaft columns of fmokc afccnded from the
interior heights, which denoted pojjulation.
The latitude at njon was 15'' 5s' North.

... During

Fiji ,

.Jv'-sSjiJsij^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

3»

During the evening and the night, wccon- 1788.
tinued ftandine to the land, but could find Januaet.
no foundings with an hundred and fifty
fathoms of line.

The land extended from North by Eaft, Saturday jo
to North Eaft by £aft, diftant about fix
leagues; at which diftance we kept (leering
along the (hore to the Southward and Eaft-
ward ; the latitude was 15° 19' North, by
obfervation. The weather was extremely
moderate, and pleafant under the land,
the fta remarkably fmooth, and a continu-
ation of high, mountainous country, covered
with wood, prefented itfelf to our view.

At night, it blew a frefli breeze from the
Weftward ; and we ftood to the South by
Eaft, to make Goat Ifland, keeping a good ;
look out for fome fhoals that are faid to lie
to the Northward of the ifland.

In the morning, about eight o'clock, Sunday 31
Goat Ifland was feen, bearing North Eaft
by North, about the diftance of fix leagues ;
the coaft of Luconia bearing, at this time,
from North by Weft to South Eaft, at the .
diftance of 14 leagues. From an obferva-
tion made at noon, the latitude was 13° 45'
North. .;,

Goat

'J^

" '^^^pBHSSiH?^'^

Voyages to the

' ii •

iif

m. i

I -

>>
i^

1 788. Goat Ifland Appeared of a moderate height^
jANUARv. and to be well wooded, but without any
iign of inhabitants. The Luban Iflands
' were perfect mountains covered with woods :
— The Spanifh charts, indeed, reprefent the
Lubans as connected by fhoals with Goat
Ifland ; but we could not perceive any bro-
ken water, or procure foundings with one
hundred and fifty fathoms of line.

We took the opportunity of the favour-
able weather we now enjoyed to put the
fliips in a ftate of defence. The guns
were accordingly mounted, a fufEcient quan-
tity of powder and ammunition was filled,
and every other necefTary preparation made,
as thofe Teas are infefled with numerous
bands of pirates. Two very fine (hips had
lately been taken by them. One of them
was the May, of 300 tons, and mounting
twenty guns, and had been on a trading
voyage from Bengal to the coafl of Borneo.
General intelligence was received from tli€
Malays of her being deflroyed, but not a
iingle perfon efcaped to relate the particu-
lars. Several other fhips have very nar-
rowly efcaped deflrudion : indeed, fcarce
a year pafles away, but feme cataflrophe
. ' -■ . of

'N.;.. .1.

t^?%^

■ "■■-■'^/j^i j

MORTH WESt 60AST* 6P AMERICA.

of this kind happens. The proas from 1788.
Magindanao and Sooloo iflue forth in fuch Jahuary.
fwarms, that it becomes dangerous for a
weak (hip to fail thofe feas. Thefc proas
are manned wifh an hundred, and fome*
times an hundred and fifty men, well armed,
and generally mounting pieces of cannon
of fix or twelve pounders. As foon as a
ihip is captured by them, a carnage en-
fues, — and the unhappy few who furvive it
are carried into irredeemable flavery. Thefe
people cruife in fleets of thirty or forty of
thefe proas; nay, fometlmes an hundred
of them have been perceived in company ;
and though we did not very much appre-
hend that they would venture to attack two
fliips, it would have been an unpardonable
negligence if we had not prepared ourfelves
for whatever might happen. We availed
ourfelves alfo of the prefent favourable op-
portunity to furvey the mafts of the Iphi-
genia, and deliver her fuch ftores and other
articles as we knew that flie wanted, to put
her in a refpedlable ftate of defence. We
therefore fent on board her two additional
pieces of cannon, with a requifite proportion
of powder, ball, and other ammunition;
Vol. I. C and

1?^

tv,

1 1

'i I

Iif

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. and in return received a quantity of coals
January, foj- the forges, and feveral other neceffary
articles.

Additional reafons continually arofe why
the fhips Ihould feparate on the firft oppor-
tunity after we had Cleared thcfe dangerous
feas. But, if even there had been no other,
the Felice, by keeping company with the
Iphigenia, who was at beft inferior in point
of failing, would have been very much im-
peded in her voyage; and it was become
neceflary to make every poffible exertion to
lave our feafon on the coaft of America.
.In the evening, the carpenters returned
from the Iphigtnia, and reported the maft
to be, in every refpe£l, unequal to the
voyage ; they even doubted whether it
would carry her to Samboingan. The
head was quite rotten and fupported by the
cheeks : good fifties, however, were put
on, and fecurely woolded.

At funfet the ifland of Mindoro was feen
bearing South Eaft by Eaft, diftant ten
leagues. The wind blew very ftrong from
the Eaft, and it came down in violent puffs
from the high mountains of Luban : du-
ring the night a prefs of fail was carried to

reach

(I'M ■'

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

reach tinder the (hore of Mindoro. The 1788.
wind blew mvariably from the Eaft, fo January.
that we became apprehenfive of being en-
tangled with the iflands called the Cala-
mines, which are not onlj in great number,
but extremely dangerous. The top-fails
were reefed, and as much fail as we could
well keep abroad was carried, which brought
us happily under Mindoro about midnight.
It foon after became fqually, and as it would
have been very hazardous in a dark night,
and on an unknown coaft, to run, the fig-
nal was made to the Iphigenia to heave to
with her head off fhore ; we immediately
did the fame ; but Ihe had ft retched a- head
out of fight, though (he anfwered our fig-
nal. — During the night it blew very hard,
and we were continually founding, but
could find no ground with an hundred
fathoms of line. The inhabitants not only
kept numerous and conftant fires along the
(hores, but had even lighted them on the ''

very fummits of the mountains. -> -

At day break we occupied much the fame F'B'^uarv
fituation as when we hove to in the night.
The Iphigenia was near four leagues a-iiead,
but we made fail and joined her by noon.

C 2 Our

2^ ' VOYAGES TO THE

1788. Our latitude wa« 12'' 59' North: The
FEBRUARY, iflaiid of Mlndoro bore South Eaft by Eaft,
— diftant fix leagues.

The ifland of Mindoro at funfet, bore
from North by Eaft half Eaft, to South
Eaft by Eaft, half Eaft ; our diftance from
the ihore about fix leagues. In the night it
was, as ufual, very tempeftuous, and we
experienced a very ftroiig current againft
us, which caufed fuch a confufed fea, that
we were apprehenfive for our mafts and
yards. Early in the evening we had fhort-
ened fail, and kept a good look out for the
. fhoals that lie between Mindoro and the
Calamines, jln order to clear them, we
hauled clofe under the ftiore of the former
ifland; the channel between Mindoro and
;^ - thofe ftioals being reprefented as three leagues
wide. The fires appeared to be more nu-
merous on the declivity of the mountains,
and were kept burning all night.
saturdaj 2. At nine o'clock in the mornings we per-
ceived the Calamine Iflands, bearing South
. Weft to South Eaft, diftant fixtecn or feven-
• . ■ teen leagues. The weather had alfo taken
a favourable turn ; it was become moderate
and pleafant, and we congratulated ourfelves

liiO

very

NORTH WE8T COAST OF AMERICA. 07

very much on entering this channel ; as the 1788.
flrong Eafterly winds might have blown February.
us to the Southward and Weftward of the
Calamines, which would have obliged us
to have bore up along the coaft of Palawan,
and made our entrance again into the Sooloo
Sea very precarious at this feafon of the
year. We now found the advantage of
keeping the (hores of the Philippines on
board, whenever the winds permitted us ;
but in accompli(hing this we experienced
fome difficulty from the conftant North
Eaft and Eaft winds, which obliged us to
carry a conftant prefs of fail.

Captain Douglas embraced this opportu-
nity to inform us that the fcurvy had made
its appearance on board his Ihip- The
carpenter, two of the quarter-mafters, and
fome of the leamen were already ill, —
others difcovered lymptoms which were
truly alarming, — their legs fwelling, and
their gums becoming putrid. They were,
therefore, immediately put on a diet, —
fpruce beer was ordered to be conftantly
brewed, and ferved in the room of fpirits,
feveral bafkets of oranges were fent on •
board, whofe efficacious qualities in this
*• : Cs di{^

-3 VOYAGESTOTHE

1788. diftemper are well known, and every other
February, antifcorbutic was immediately brought into
application, in order to check this early ap-
pearance of a difbrder, whole continuance
would be attended with fuch fatal confe-
quences.

We very fenfibly perceived the cncreaiing
heat of the weather. On leaving China,
we had it piercing cold ; and now, on a
, fudden, we felt the oppofite extreme.—

Sijch a change, with the heavy dews which
fell morning and evening, was a very un-
healthy circumftance ; neverthelefs we were
rather aftonilhed, that men who had fb
lately quitted the fhore, where they had a
plentiful allowance of frefli provifions and
vegetables, and who had not tafted fait meat
for many months, (hould be attacked with
fuch violent fcorbutic fymptoms, and at
fuch an early period of our voyage. Be-
lides, we were extremely careful in the
diibibution of their food ; the fait provi-
fions were always well ftceped ; rice and
peas were boiled alternately every day ;
tea and fugar were given the crews for
breakfaft ; they had a plentiful allowance
of water, and every poflible attention was

■ ' ■) ■ .^ paid

,r '

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. #^

paid to prefcrve cleanlinefs among them : 1 788.
they were never permitted to fleep on deck, February.
left they (hould be afFedVed by the unwhole^
fbme dews ; and no fpirits were fufi^red to
be iflued in their raw ftate,— a circumftance
of the laft importance to all feamen. Indeed
thefe precautions (hould be redoubled with
refpeft to men who have made frequent
voyages to India, as their blood becomes,
on that account, more liable to the attacks
of this moft formidable diforder. '

We kept fteering, during the night,
under the fhores of Mindoro ; the topfails
were clofe reefed, and, the weather being
very fqually, we frequently founded, but
could find no bottom with an hundred fa-
thoms of line, though within four leagues
of the land.

This morning we loft fight of Mindoro, Sunday 3
and at noon the Ifland of Panay was feen
bearing from North Eaft by Eaft, to South
Eaft, diftant nine leagues ; the weather
moderated with the wind from the' North
Eaft. The latitude at noon was 12° 53'
North.

The Ifland of Mindoro is of confiderable
extent ; in fome parts it appeared to be

C 4 only

»v

r*''

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. only of a moderate height, in others very
February, mountainous, and almofl every where cover-
ed with wood. From the numerous columns
of fmoke which we obferved afcending both
from the vallies and the mountains, during
the day, and the fires that continued to illu**
minate the night, there is the greateft rea-
fon to fuppofe that it poflefles a confiderable
degree of population. Some parts which
we were able to obferre diftin(5tly, appeared
to be truly delightful ; they confift^d of
extenfive lawns, clothed in the fineft ver-
dure, watered with filver rivulets,, and adorn*
edwith groves of trees, fo difpofed, either
by art or nature, as to form fcenes of rural
beauty which would adorn the oioft refined
(late of European cultivation. j

On the following day we ranged up with
the Ifland of Panay : the latitude at noon
was 10° 36' North ; our diflance from the
land four miles ; and, which is very extra-
ordinary, without being able to find found-
ings with eighty fathoms of line. Nume-
rous villages appeared on the declivity of
the hills, and the whole country formed a
mofl luxuriant profped. The habitations
fej^med to be extremely weU built, and

^londay 4

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. rj

arranged with great regularity. The hills i^83.
were verdant, and their gentle flopes were Februart.
varied with ftreams of water running down
to the plains, where they flowed round,
or meandered through well-cultivated plan-
tations : — the whole forming pidures of
nature equal to thofe which we had feen on
the preceding day ; and received every ad-
vantage from the very fine weather we now
enjoyed. ^

Our eyes wandered over the pi(flurefque
and fruitful fcene now before us, with the
moft fenfible pleafure. We were, at times,
within three miles of the ihore, which, near
the water- fide, formed a fine fandy beach,
lined with cocoa-nut trees, beneath whofe
fliade we beheld the natives, in great num-
bers, enjoying a cool retreat from the in-
tenfe heat of the fun, and bufied in the
various occupations of the day. We very
much regretted that we had not time tocafl
anchor here, in order to have enjoyed fome
communication with them. It may not
he alfo unworthy of remark, that we did
not difcover a fingle canoe or fifhing-boat on
jhat part of the coafl along which we paiTed.
ih-^ : ■ . • ^ . ■'.. .- .At

VOYAGES TO THE

1 ,

17S8. At this time a mutiny was difcovered
Fkbruary. on board the Felice ; which, however, was
fortunately quelled by gentle means, even
before it had communicated itfelf to the
whole crew. But, in order to flamp fome
degree of difgrace upon the butinefs, all
the circumftances of it were inferred in the
log-book of the (hip.
' And here it may not be improper to offer

an opinion, that, if in long voyages, all
the particulars of the good and bad behavi-
our of the crew were defcribed in the log-
book as they arofe, fuch a reg^ilation would
be attended with the happiefV confequences.
Shame will always be found to operate,
more or lefs, on every man, whatever his
rank or employment of life may be, who
is not abfolutely abandoned ; and to fuch,
the fevereft puni(hrr*e:it will have no effect
beyond the fmarting of the moment. —
Indeed I am firmly of opinion, that many
a failor, with all the hardy training of a fea
life, and all the infenfibility attributed to
a feaman*s character, would be deterred
from an improper condudl, by the appre-
henfion of having it regiflered in the records
of the (hip> when the temporary pain of

corporal

.1!

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

corporal punifhtnent would be confidcrcd i ?88.
with contempt. februart-

Indeed I cannot but lament the inefficacy
of the marine laws to reftrain the unlawful
behaviour of failors on board merchant fliips.
It is a real dlfgrace to the firft maritime
and commercial nation in the world, to
have been fo long without an eftablifhed
fyftem of regulations to preferve the obe-
dience of feamen in the trade fervice, as well
as that in the navy. How many (hips have
been loft, from the licentious, ungovern-
able condudb of their crews ! and how
many voyages rendered unprofitable from
the fame caufe. Neverthelefs, it does not
appear that any efforts have been made to
prevent fuch a manifeft inconvenience to
the commerce of our country. Other
nations have included merchant (hips in
the general laws ena£ted for maritime fub-
ordination ; and it is of real confequence to
this country to follow fuch a falutary ex-
ample, and to form a code of regulations
that may operate to keep in a due ftatc
ofdifclpline a clafs of men who are fo
neceflary to the commerce, the ftrength,
and the glory of the Britilh empire.

CHAP.

Hi
M til

\ <

».'Jl WP Wi a iWrl i

J-

44 .
1788.

FSBRUAHY.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. III.

('■

Monday 4

Sichnefs of the Sandwich IJlanders, — Death of
JVinee ; her CharaSler^ Csfr. — DeJlruSiion of
Cattle, — IJlanJs ofBafilan and Magindanao,
'^'The Ships anchor off the latter. — I'hc Car'
penters and Party fent on Shore to cut a
Mafl^ &c. — Lofs of a China Man, — Spani^
ards fcnt on board to compliment the Ships,
^-Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera, —
Behaviour of the Spaniflj Governor^ &c,

OUR friends of Owyhee had fufFered
extremely during the paflage acrofs
the China feas. Tianna, in his conftant at-
tendance upon Winee, had caught a fever,
which, with the humane anxiety he felt
on her account, confined him for fome time
to his bed. The man from Nootka Sound,
however, polTefling a very robuft conftitu-
tion, bore the inconveniencies of the voy-
age with little complaint ; but the poor,
unfortunate woman juftlfied our fears con-
cerning her, that fhe would never again tee
her friends or native land. She every day

5 declined

t "f-

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

declined in (Irength, and nothing remained 1^88.
for us, but to cafe the pains of her ap- FuRUARr.
proaching diflblution, which no human
power could prevent. Nor did we fail, I
bei eve, in any attention that humanity
could fuggeft, or that it was in our power to
beflow. She had been for fome time a
living fpedtre, and on the morning of tho
fifth of February fhe expired. At noon her
body was committed to the deep ; nor was
it thought an unbecoming a6t to grace her
remains with the formalities of that religion
which opens wide its arms to the whole
human race, of every colour, and under
every clime, to the favage as well as to the
faint and the fage. Tianna was fo much
affected by the circumftance of her death,
that we were for fome time under very
painful apprehenfions led his health might
fuffer from the feelings of his humanity
on this occafion ; as he poffeffed, in a very
great degree, that delicacy of conftitution
which difcriminates the chiefs from the
vulgar people, and is peculiar to the great
men of his country.

Thus died Winee, a native of Owyhee,
ojie of the Sandwich Iflands, who poflefled

virtues

'Hi;,

^5 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. virtues that are feldom to be found in the
February, clafs of her countrywomen to which ihe
belonged ; and a portion of underftanding
that was not to be expelled in a rude and
uncultivated mind. It may not, perhaps,
be uninterefting to mention the caufe of
this poor girl's departure from her friends
and country, which it was her fate never
to behold again.

Captain Barclay, who commanded the
Imperial Eagle, was one of thofe adven-
turers to the coaft of America who made
a very fuccefsful voyage. Mrs. Barclay
accompanied her hulband, and Ihared with
him in the toils, the hardships, and viciffi-
tudes incident to fuch long, as well as peri-
lous voyages; but by no means calculated
, for the frame, the temper, or the education

of the fofter fex. This lady was fo pleafed
with the amiable manners of poor Winee,
that (he felt a defireto take her to Europe;
and for that purpofe took her, with the
conient of her friends, under her own par-
. ticular 'rare and protecSlion. On Mrs. Bar-
clay's departure from China for Europe,
Winee was left, as we have already men-
tioned, in a deep decline, to embark for

3 ^er

''""--■ -^W'*"^

1 '''I

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

her country, with the reft of the natives 1788.
of the Sandwich Iflands. Februart.

On the morning of her death, fhe pre-
fented Tianna, as a token of her gratitude
for his kind attentions to her, with a plate
looking-glafs, and a bafon and bottle of
the fineft China: to thefe gifts (he alfo
added a gown, an hoop, a petticoat, and
a cap for his wife ; the reft of her pro-
perty, confifting of a great variety of arti-
cles, Ihe bequeathed to her family ; and
they were depofited with Tianna, to be
delivered to her father and mother. ^

Nor let faftidious pride caft a fmileof
contempt on the trifles that compofed her
little treafure. They were wealth to her,
and would have given her a very flattering
importance, had ftie lived to have taken
them to her native ifland. But when we
confider the fufFerings of her mind, on the
reflection that flie fliould never behold her
country again ; — when we fee, as it were,
the difappointment of an inofFenfive pride
preying on her fpirits ; — when to thefe
caufes of dcje<^ion are added the pains of
incurable difeafe, inereafed by the tofling
of the billows, and the violence of tern-
' • ' ' peftuous

• 1

- --••*«ii****»»ta»M-«3Kp-

''ii^'^^.^'i r ff j f g.

^8 ' •'• VOYAGES to THE ' ■ "''*

1788. pcftuous feas, — humanity muft feel fof
February, thofe mifcries which haunt every corner of
the earth, — and yield a compaifionate tear
to the unfortunate Winee !
, The bad weather had, at this time, greatly
. reduced our flock of cattle, — there now re-
mained of our original number, but one
bull, one cow, and one cow-calf; — all the
goats, except two, had periflied.
Tucfdays At fuufet, on the fifth, we had almoft
loft fight of Pan ay ; Point de Nafib, the
fouthern extremity, then borfi Eaft North
« Eaft, diftant feven leagues. The weather
was extremely hazy, with the wind from
the North Eaft ; and we kept fteering
during the night to the fouthward and
eaftward, under an eafy fail, for the fouthern
extremity of the ifland of Magindanao,
which we defcried on the morning of the
Wedncfdaye 6th of February, at day-break, bearing
Eaft, (even or eight leagues diftant : it
appeared high, and very mountainous, —
At noon, the latitude was y'^ 22' North,
and our diftance from the land three leagues.
The mountains jutted abruptly into the
^ fca ; and from their fummits to' the water's

edge, were covered with wood. We were

con-

, ^ym,^-t^-, .,♦-«•■» J|^-'-^v\j»»--i--

.-'SJ

KORTH WfiSf COASf OF AMERICA.

continually founding, but could find no hot- i ^88.
torn with an hundred fathoms of line. Februart.

It now became a matter for our choice,
either to fleer diredly to Sooloo, or to the
SpaniHi fettlement of Samboingan ; the
latter, however, was preferred, it being
thought by no means prudent to run fo
far to leeward as the former. Befides, as it
was, the continual North Eaft winds made
us apprehenfive that we fhould find it
rather a difficult matter to weather Jelolo,
or even New Guinea ; it was, therefore,
determined to keep the ihore of Magindanao ^
clofe on board, and truft to chance to fupply
our wants : we continued running down
the ifland tin funfet, the fliores being bold,
and no danger to be apprehended, as we 7
could procure no ground. The Weftern ex*
tremity bore South South Eaft five leagues ;
and as we thought it rather hazardous to
run during the night, the fignalwas there*'
fore made to heave to till morning ; when Thurfdayj
we refumed our courfe, at about the dis-
tance of a mile from the fhore. In the
night we had experienced a Northerly cur-
rent.
Vol. I. D At

-^ \

r<!

^^u

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. At noon, the ifland of Bafilan was feen,
Fi-BivuARY. bearing South South Weft nine leagues.
Our latitude was 7® 8' North. It had a very
fingular appearance, from a great number of
hills of a conical form ; one of which ter-
minated its Eaftern extremity, and refembled,
in fhape, the cap of a Chinefe Mandarin.
It was a very confpicuous object, being the
higheft of this curious groupe of hills. This
ifland lies near Eaft and Weft ; and feveral
other iflands, but of much lefs extent, ap-
pear off its Weftern point.

About three in the afternoon, we opened
the channel that feparates Bafilan from Ma-
gindanao. At half paft three, the Southern
extremity of Maglndanao was doubled; and
we entered this channel, which appeared
to be of confiderable breadth, with feveral
fmall iflands in the midft of it. Our found-
ings were from twenty-five to thirty fa-
thoms, over a rocky bottom. The South
^ end pf Magindanao we eftimate to lie in the

latitude of 6"^ 56' North ; the fliore was
everywhere covered ^th wood, down to
the Tea. ,;

At half paft four we were moft agreeably
furprifed at feeing a fmall ftone fort feated

i on

"tT'JSJ? «»»-»■• i» '■''

f.r "'*[Lii m i:AM M-^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

on the Magindanao (here, contiguous to a 1*38,
ftream of running water, and about two miles febru
from the South point. At the fame time a
large village was feen more to the Eaft-
ward. The enfign was immediately hoifted,
which very foon occafioned the Spanifli co-
lours to be difplayed from the fort, and we
were now no longer in doubt that the place
was Samboingan. It was a fquare building,
with centry boxes at each angle, covered
with thatch, and the ramparts feemed to
be crouded with Malayans ; but • on the
whole it had the appearance of a very in-
different fortification.

The tide of ebb now came ftrongly againft
us, and the fignal was made for anchoring,
which was accordingly done in eleven fa-
thoms, over a muddy bottom, at the diftance
of about two miles from the fort, and within '
a quarter of a mile from the fliore, which '
appeared to be covered with an impenetrable
wood.

The boats were immediately hoifted out,
and the carpenters fent to examine the na-
ture of the woods. We now obfervcd with
our glaffes the Spanifh colours flying on
another fortification adjoining to the village,

D 2 and .

ARY.

;:»■. 'i

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. and before which two gallles werf? riding at
FiJBRUARy. anchor. About five o'clock, a fmall boat
came along-fide us, with a white flag flying
in her bow ; — ftie was rowed by four Ma-
layans, and had on board three Spanifh Pa-
dres or Priefts. At firfl they appeared to be
extremely apprehenfive that our arrival fore-
boded Ibme kind of hoftility ; but being
affured that our intentions were peaceable
and friendly, they accepted our invitation
to come on board, and having taken fome
refrefhment, they returned to the village ;
after having cautioned us not to permit any
of our people to draggle into the woods,
which were infefted with Malayans, who
would be upon the watch to make every
kind of depredation upon us. In confe-
quence of this very kind and important in-
formation, orders were immediately dif-
patched to the Iphigenia, who had anchored
about a mile from us, to withdraw her people
from the fhore.

The carpenter returned about fix o'clock,

and made a report that every kind of timber

we wanted, might be procured.

Friday 8 In the morniiig an officer, with a flrong

party, was difpatched with the carpenters

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

to cut down feme fpars for top-fail yards, 1788.
and fleering fail-booms for the Felice ; and F'^-'^^ary.
orders were iflued to the Iphigenia to fend
a fimilar party to cut a fore-maft ; in the
mean time, the pinnace was employed in
founding and furveying the channel, which
was found to contain great over-falls, from
five to ten, and thirty fathoms at a caft,
with a very rocky ground.

About noon, the carpenters returned on
board, having procured a top-fail yard and
the booms. They had alfo felled a fore-
maft for the Iphigenia. The officer informed
us of the lofsof a China-man, who was fup-
pofed to have ftrayed into the wooiisj and
to have been feized by the Malayans. A
numerous band of thefe favages, well armed V
after their fafhion, hovered about the ylace
where the carpenters were at work, and as
we could not procure any intelligence of
this poor unfortunate man, there is but too •
much reafon to believe that he fell into the
hands of the natives.

At one o'clock a large boat arrived from
the governor, who refided at the village, to
compliment us on our arrival, and to invite

D3 US

j._._ •.'.«,;< .--•,.tf>!

<■ *»»r-Jt,- r^-*»' •. *"»^ ■/>>t\-^^,_^ _ .,3* <— — ■ - •' ■- i, ; ^ i^

g^ VOYAGESTOTHE

1788. US to an entertainment which his hofpitallty
FeaauARv.had prepared. The officer who was employed
to bring this polite Invitation, confirmed the
account of the priefts refpe£ling the perfi-
dious charader of the natives of the ifland ;
and recommended, in the flrongeft terms,
that we (hould ufe every poffible precaution
when we fent any parties on (hore. He
alfo informed us that we might procure any
necelTary timber with more eafe and fafety
in the neighbourhood of the village, which
poflcfled another advantage that might be
of great ufe to us, — the being walhed by a
rivulet of very fine water. He alfp added,
on the part of the governor, that he (hould
be happy to give us every afliftance in his
power.

It was, therefore, immediately refolved
that the (hips fhould moor nearer to the
village ; accordingly at two o'clock the tide
making in our favour, both ihips weighed
and anchored abreafl: of a large ftone fort,
called Fort Caldera, whofe baftions were
within an hundred yards of the fea.

The fort was faluted with nine guns,
^hich compliment was immediately re-
turned.

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

turned. The body of the village bore North 1-88.
by Eaft half Eaft, diftant about a quarter iebrlauv.
of a mile ; the extremities of Magindanao
Eaft North Eaft, to North North Weft;
and the Ifland of Eafilan from South Eaft
by Eaft, to South Weft by Weft, diftaut
about twelve leagues.

} .'

' ''I
^1

CHAP.

^*«-- -*-»■« •^•*'*»i*^- iH-'^^tf^ fS4.«^-^-^Tt»

"v:*'^

■ V-

t^.i

1788.

Februart,

VOYAGES TO THE

Saturday 9^

CHAP. IV.

Our Reception at Samboingan. — Friendly Beha^
viour of the Governor ^ &c, — He vijits the
I Ships, ^c, — The Felice prepares to put to
■ Sea.'^Lofes an Anchor and departs Jor AmC"
rica, — Some Account of Magindanao, &c, —
j^ronomicai Ohfervations, Anchorage y^c.-^
The Vilhge of Samboingan, — Spanijb Force
and Power, — Defcription of a BaH given by
the Governor, and the Manners of the People.
— l^autical Ohfervaiions on the Pajfage be-'
tween the China Seas and the Northern Pa*
; cific Ocean. — Danger rf navigating the China
Seas. — Account of the feveral Pajfages be*
tween the two Oceans, with Directions, &c.
' — Pajfage between Formofa and the Philips
pines. — Bajhee IJles : — Defcription of them.

THE Governor of Sambolngan, who was
a captain in a regiment of infantry at
Manilla, received us with the greateft po-
litenefs, affured us of every afliftance in his
power, and fupplied us, without hefitation,
with whatever rtfrefliments the ifland af-
forded, —

•m«&m

»*%t^-:]:--i4

NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.

forded. — He was attended by three priefts, jy^S,
two of whom were young men, but the third Fibruary.
was rather of an advanced age, and had re-
fided on that ifland during an uninterrupted
courfe of thirty years.

We were conduced into the fort, which
appeared to be in a very ruinous ftate, and
were regaled, after the Spani(h falhion, with
fweetmeats and cordials ; — a very handfome
repaft then fucceeded, to which the major
of the country militia, and other officers,
were invited. Some of thefe gentlemen were
natives of Manilla, and others of Maginda-
nao, whofe complexions were fo dark as to
approach very nearly to the blacknefs of the
African. The priefts enjoyed, as well as
enlivened, the hofpitalities of the day, and .
did not appear to be of opinion that they -
were thrown into that corner of the globe
to pafs their time in penitence and prayer.

The rivulet that flowed through the vil-
lage, after wafhing the walls of the fort,
emptied itfelf into the fea, at no great dif-
tance from our mooring, which afforded us
a very convenient opportunity of vatering:
we accordingly embraced the occafion to

replace .

I \l

) ft

()■

■\ " * *'

^. i

' )'

i^^-j^

i>>.*

=^^^ — ^fc'

VOYAGES TO TIIR

1788. replace what we had expended of fuch an
FiBRWARY. important article.
Sunday 10 Oil the 1 0th, the governor was fo very
obliging as to permit the two gallies, com-
pletely armed, to accompany the boats of
both the fhips, that were employed to con-
* voy the carpenters on fliore, to cut another

fore-maft for the Iphigenia in the woods, the
firft having been found defective, about a
league from the fort. About noon they got
under fail, and proceeded with the boats,
^ ' which were alfo well manned and armed.

We had been aflured that large parties of
Malays were always on the watch, either to
commit depredations on the people, or to
carry off any unguarded flraggler into fla-
very, from whence they feldom or ever
• efcaped. We were therefore determined to
' be in fuch a ftate of preparation as to fee u re

the object of our little expedition from being
materially interrupted by them. About nine
the parties returned with a very fine flick,
without having feen the face of an enemy. —
In the mean time the other operations were
•proceeding, and every preparation making
for the continuance of our voyage. At this
place, however, ;t was rcfolved that we

, • , ihouM

•./

^«-?f-vi;V^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

(hould feparate. The Iphigcnia could not lygg,
have been ready for fea at lead for fomc Fki&uailt.
days ; and even that period had become an
objedl of Ibme importance, from the prefcnt
advanced ftate of the year. The Felice was
provided with every thing the could want,
and -we therefore prepared to leave Sam-
boingan without any farther delay.

Tianna, and Comekala, the man from
King George's Sound, were, (Ince the death
of Winee, the only perfons of their refpec-
tive countries on board the Felice ; the reft
of them were on board the Iphigenia, to
which we now configned the amiable chief
of Atooi, as her courfe comprehended his
native iflands. — Comekala remained with
us, as the deftination of our voyage was to
his own country.

Tianna had been fo fenfibly affeftcd by
the death of Winee, as to produce a con 11-
derable alteration in the ftate of his health :
—his fever continued, and baffled all our at-
tentions to relieve him. The fame fate that
had feparated for ever his unfortunate coun-
trywoman from her friends and native land,
preffed home upon his reflcdion. — He may
be fuppofed to have fc't, and fometimes,
' , perhaps.

111

't.r-

i'' I:

)

{ (A

\ \')

(^O

VOYAGES TO THE

1788, perhaps, expedited that he might hear no
February, more the teii J'^r names of father or of huf-
band ; — that he might (hare with Winee a
premature grave in the bofom of the ocean,
— He was therefore conHgned to the care of
Captain Douglas, with the hopes that the
V remaining on fhore till his departure, with
the novelty of the fcenes around him, might
abate hisdiforder, and recruit his fpirits with
afufficient degree of ftrength to bear out the
remainder of the voyage.

On the evening of this day, we received
on board four fine buffaloes, with grafs and
plantain trees for them and our other cattle :
— to thefe were alfo added a quantity of rice,
^ ^ vegetables, and fruit, with feveral very fine
hogs ; and it was our defign to put to fea
without delay : but the wind fpringing up
from the South Eaft, and the weather ap-
pearing very gloomy and unfettled, our de-
parture was deferred to the following day.

As we had now an opportunity to make
the governor fome acknowledgment for his
very friendly attentions, an officer was dif-
patched with a melTage of thanks for his
kindnefs to us, accompanied with an invi-
tation to partake of a repaft the next day on

... board

-r-M

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA*

board the (hips, which he very readily ac- 1 788.
ceptcd. In return for which compliment, februart.
he requefted our prefence at a ball that even-
ing ; fome account of which will be given
when I come to mention the (late, &c. of
the ifland, and its inhabitants.

At the time appointed, the governor made Monday i»
us the promifed vifit, attended by the three
padres, and the major of militia ; and we
exerted ourfelves to the utmoft in our enter-
tainment, to manifeft a proper fenfibility to
the friendfhip he had (hewn us. The priefts
enjoyed themfelves on board the (hips as they
had done on (hore; and joined in one com-
mon fentiment, that nothing tends fo much
as wine and good cheer to annihilate the
force of religious diftin£lions. — The gover-
nor and his fuite left us with the moft cor- T
dial expre(fions of fatisfa£lion at our recep-
tion of them.

At four o'clock, the tide making in our
favour, with a fre(h breeze from the north-
ward, we hove (hort ; but had the misfor^
tune to find that our anchor had hooked a
rock ; nor could our (itmoft endeavours dif^
entangle it from its hold, and heaving rather -
a ftrain, the cable gave way, and we irre-

' •' parably

I i

m
1)''

M} 1

W' 1

1,1

1^ VOYAGES TO THE

1788. parably loft it. The (hip was immediately
FsBRUARY. got under fail, and pafling dofe to the Iphi-
genia, fhe gave us three cheers, which , we
immediately returned. She had her old
fore-maftout, and her carpenters were bufi-
ly employed in preparing the new one on
* ihore.

The very fhort time we remained at Sam-
boingan did not give us a fufficient opportu-
nity to acquire any other knowledge of this
fettlemcnt than fucK as we received from
the general information of others. But as
this place is fo much out of the way of
'■ fhipping and commerce, I ftiall not hefitate

. ' to repeat ^he account I received from the
communications of the old padre, whofe au-
thority may, after all, be confidered as of
fome reliance, from his very long and con-
.' tinual refidence on this ifland.

Magindanao is an ifland of confiderable
extent, being about 120 miles in breadth, and
160 in length, and is blefled with a fertile,
luxuriant foil, — The interior parts contain
feveral chains of lofty mountains, between
which are extenlive plains, where vaft herds
of cattle roam at large in the moft delicious
paftures. Several deep vallies alfo interfedt,
-.= ..■• ^ ■' • as

-y^3rf:f',r'

jSisiS^S!^"

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA., ^a

as it were, certain parts of the country, 1^88.
through which, during the rainy feafons, FEBauA&T.
vdft torrents pour from the mountains, and
force, their impetuous way to the fea. The
rains and vapours which lodge in the plains,
difFufe themfelves into meandering rivulets,
and colle<Sbing a variety of^iiaall ftreams in
their courfe, approach the fea in the form of
confiderable rivers.

About the middle of the ifland there are
feveral lakes of no fmall extent, of which,
however, we received no other particulars
than that their borders are inhabited by tribes
of favage natives, who live in a great mea-
fure by plundering thofe who dwell nearer
to the fea. The people confider themfelves
as free and independent of the Sovereign of
Magindanao, are of a fierce, implacable na- '^
ture, and wage continual war with the Ma-
hometans, who compofe the principal inha-
bitants of the ifland. They are called Hil-
loonas, and profefs no kind of religion, but
live in a ftate of profound ignorance and
barbarifm. . i. . ,.a/;-.

The fovereign of Magindanao is a power-
ful prince, and has feveral inferior chiefs
who acknowledge him as their head. Ne-

vertbelefs

.It

\ 0'

f¥: ii >'

H f

64 VOYAGES TO THfe .

K788. verthelefs there are others of them who re-
fmrvakt. fufe fubmiflion to him, andiil-e confequently
in a coiithiual ftate of wdr ; fo that peace,
at leaft, does not appear to be one of the
bleflings of this ifland. The Spaniards, m-
deed, aflert their right to the entire dominion
of Magindanao, but it is mere alTertion ; for
though they have thefe forts, &c. on the
ifland, it is by no means in a flate of fub-
jeftion to their nation.

The city of Magindanao is (ituated on the
South Eaft fide of the ifland, has a river
capable of admitting fmall veflels, and car-
ries on a confiderable trade with Manilla,
Sooloo, Borneo, and the Moluccas. Their
exports are rice, tobacco, bees- wax and
fpices ; in return for which they receive
coarfe cloths of Coromandel, China-ware
and opium.

This city ufed formerly to be vifited by
European veflels of fmall burthen ; but it
was a confiderable time fince any of them
had been there. The governor informed us,
that the Iphigenia and the Felice were the
only European fliips that had been feen in
thefe feas during a courfe of feveral years.

The

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^^

The Mahometati religion is profeffed 1788.
throughout the ifland, except by the Hil- February.
loonas, who, as we have already obferved,
are governed by no religious principles,—
pra£life no form of worfhip, — and live in a
Hate of favage freedom.

Thefe people are called by the Spaniards,
Negros del Monte, or Negroes of the Moun-
tain, on account of their refemblance to the
race of Africa, both in their perfons and
manners. They are fuppofed to be the ori-
ginal lords of Magindanao, and, indeed, of
all the Philippines ; the Ifla de Negros, or
Ifle of Negroes, is, in particular, entirely
peopled by them, where they are at conftant
enmity with the Spaniards. The Mahome-
tan natives of the ifland are a robuft people, t
of a deep copper colour, and are efteemed
intelligent merchants.

If the Hilloonas are believed to have been
the original inhabitants of Magindanao, it
is very reafonable to fuppole that they fled
to the mountains to preferve their liberty,
when they were invaded by the Mahome-
tan hefts, which fpread like locufts, during
the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, over
the Eaftern Archipelago. Their favage ig-

VoL. I. . Jl * noraikce

\\\

•VOYAGES TO THE

1788. norance and barbarous difpofitions feem to
FsBRUARY. have become fo habitual, as to leave them
without the leaft defire, or, perhaps, without
even the leaft idea of any fuperior degree of
jntelledual nature. The miffionaries whom
the Zi.al for infidel converfion, fo well known
in the Roman Catholic Church, employed
to preach Chriftianity to thefe inhuman
people, were inftantly feized and murdered
. ' by them. ' ^

The ifland is well wooded ; many parts
of it towards the fea-coaft, are covered with
-J impenetrable forefts : in others, the woods

are fcattered with a pleafing irregularity,
contributing not only to the beauty of the
country, but to its comfort and convenience,
by (hading the hills and vallies from the
fcorching heat of the fun. The fpecies of
trees that are moft abundant, are the teake,
' V the poone, and the larch ; but its moft va-
luable and precious growth, ;s the cinnamon
tree, which is to b^ found in every part of
the ivand, and is of a quality by no means
inferior to that of Ceylon. We received
famples frefli from the tree, that poffefled a
delicacy of tafte and fragrance equal to any
that is brought from thence. Our good
•.'/ /t ,..:,. ' , friend

itORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^j

friend the padre was fo kind as to procure 1788.
us forty young plants of the true cinnamon f«bruaiiy.
tree, which were intended for the Sandwich
Iflands.

The air of Magindanao is efteemed falu*
brious, particularly in the vicinity of the fea.
The heat there is not, in any degree, fo in-^
tenfe as might ' j expefted, in a country
which is fituated on the very verge of the
torrid zone. I do not recoiled to have feen
the thermometer at more than eighty-eight
degrees, and it was very often fo low as
feventy-two. The prevalence of the Eafter-
ly winds on that part of the coaft which
is walhed by the Pacific Ocean, renders the
air cool and pleafant, the trade- wind blowing
inceffantly on its (hores. It a£ts, indeed,
with fo much power as to fweep the whole
breadth of the ifland; and though in its
paflage it lofes much of its ftrength, it
retains a fufficient degree of force to afford
refreftiing breezes to the inhabitants of the
Weftern (hore. The interior parts are much
colder, from a very cloudy atmofphere,
which frequently hangs over the fummits of
the mountains in thick and humid vapours.

E2 The

VOYAGES TO THE

I 1

1788. The foil, which is very exuberant, is
Febhuart. fuited to the cultivation of the whole ve-
getable tribes. Rice is produced in the great-
eft abundance ; a pecul, or 1331b. maybe
purchafed for a Spanifti dollar.

The yam and fweet potatoe are cultivated
in the higheft perfection. Here are alfo to
■ be found the cocoa nut, pumble-nofe, man-
goes, the jack, the plantain, oranges, limes,
, and, in ftiort, every fruit that is produced
in climates of the fame parallel. — Indeed,
nature has been extremely bountiful to the
inhabitants, in producing for them the great
variety of tropical productions, without any
demand upon their toil and labour,
r ' Here are alfo gold mines, which are fup-
pofed to be of confiderable value ; — and it
may be naturally Imagined that a knowledge
or fufpicion of this circumftance firft induced
the Spaniards to fettle on this ifland :— but
as the natives are ignorant of the art of
forming mines, they remain unexplored by
them ; and, as we were informed, little, if
any gold has been obtained, but what has
been waftied down by the autumnal torrents
from the mountains which the Hilloonas
inhabit, and who are in poflelHon of thofe
V'-' '. -^ ,. '■ , ' $ ' ■ parts

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^g

parts which are believed to contain the pre- 1788.
cious ore. — But thefe mountaineers are too February.
numerous and refolute to reHgii a fituation
they have maintained (o long, without a
fevere and blooiiy ftruggle, and the Spanifti
power is, at prefent, far too feeble to make
any attempt to diflodge them.

Every part of the ifland abounds with
buffaloes, cows, hogs, goats, &c. — It affords
alfo great variety of fowls, and a fpecics
of duck, whofe' head is of a fine fcarlet co-
lour. Here are alfo a fmall breed of horfes,
remarkable for their fpirit. The natives,
however,principalIy employ buffaloes in the
various branches of hufbaadry and agri-
culture.

I'he people of Magindanao univerfally
chew the betel and areka, but make a more 1
moderate ufe of opium than any other in-
habitants of the Eaftern feas.

The proas of the Malayans are numerous <
and powerful ; they carry from fifty to two
hundred men ; and the confequence of their
defultory expeditions is bloodflied, carnage,
and captivity to the people of the defence-
lefs towns and villages wJiom they furprize,

E3 or

Hr A«fc#—r,

•T"''^r"'

»,Q VOYAGES TO THE

1788. or the unfortunate crews of veflels which
February, tjjgy jj^^y chance to Capture.

The village or town of Samboingan is
iituated on the banks of a fmall rivulet,
, which empties itfelf immediately into the
fea; and is agreeably (haded by groves of
cocoa-trees. The number of its inhabitants
are about one thoufand, among which are in-
cluded the officers, foldiers, and their re-
fpeftive families. In its environs there are
• feveral fmall look-out houfes, ere£ted on
pofts of twelve feet high, in all of which a
. '- conftant guard is kept ; fo that it appears as

if the Spaniards were in a continual ftate of
enmity with the natives.

The houfes are built of thofe fimple ma-
terials which are of very general ufe in the
; • i Eaftern feas. They are ere^led on pofts,
and built of bamboo, covered with mats : —
the lower apartments ferve for their hogs,
cattle and poultry, and the upper ones are
occupied by the family. Nor did it a little
excite our aftonifhment, that the Spaniards,
-.-'■ inftead of creating an emulation and im-
' ' provement among the natives, from their

own fuperior knowledge of the arts and con-
veniencies of life, fhould infenlibly (ink into
/ the

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. -,

the manners and cuftoms of the very people i^gs.
whofeignorancethcy afFe<5l todefplfc. But, itBRVAnr
though their houfes have but little to boafl",
their piety has produced a decent church,
which is built of ftone. The fort is a very
poor place of defence ; and is, as far as wc
could judge, in an abfolute ftate of decay ;
for the governor's cautious fpirit took care
to keep us from any particular examination
of it. — Towards the land, its whole defence
confifted of a fimple barrier, with two or
three pieces of cannon. — To a very mo-
derate force, indeed, this place would be-
come an eafy capture. Indeed, the Felice
and Iphigenia might, without any afli fiance,
have rendered the Spanifii power very pre-
carious in this fettlement. — The military
force confifted of from one hundred and
fifty to two hundred foldiers, natives of Ma-
nilla, in which place alfo, the governor . ..
himfelf was born. They appeared to be in
a ftate of difcipline by no means unworthy
of the fortrefs which they garrifoned.

Samboingan is the Botany Bay of the
Philippines, and crimes of a certain nature
are puniflied there by banifhment to this
place. — We did not fee any of the del in -

E 4 quent?,

ihi^l

L.^

j2 VOYAGES TO THE

I yi9* quents, but we had reafon to {u(pt€t that
Feiruary. there were fevcral in fome kind of dole con-
finement.

Inconfiderable, however, as this fettlemcnt
may appear, the governor is fuppofed to
clear thirty thoufand dollars in the three
years of his refidence there. This advantage
he derives from furnifhing the foldiers with
cloathing and provifion, — from gold du ft,
cinnamon, fpices, and other contraband
goods.

The conduct of the inhabitants was go-
verned by the moft plcafing decorum, for
which they are folcly indebted to the civi-
lizing fpirit of the old padre; as his two
fellow-labourers in the fplrltual vineyard,
were rather calculated to deprave, than im-
prove the poor people committed to their
charge* — Indeed, the former was of that
. . amiable, conciliating difpofition, which is fo

well adapted to the cultivation of favage
manners. — We were equally furprized at
' hearing a very tolerable band of mufic, which
was compofed of natives of the country. —
It confifted of four violins, two baffoons,
with feveral flutes and mandolins. This
•unexpected orcheftra were acquainted with

Ibme

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. yj

fome of the felciSt pieces of Handel ; they 1 788.
knew many of our I-nglifti country dances, FfBRUAtr.
and fcvcnil of our p'.pular and favourite
tun-s; but in performing the Fandango,
th y iiad attanied a degree of excellence that
the nice ft ea.s of Spain would have heard
with pleafurc. The Malayans poflefs, in
common with other favage nations, a fen-
fibility to the charms of mufic, an»i are
even capable of attaining CO no inconfid'^'ab^c
degree of perfedion in that d'jii(jlutul fci^
cnce.

The good old prieft had aUb t.iurl'<: the
greater part of the town to dance j ib thi,t
the inhabitants of this iiilaa!: ard >.»afre-
quented fpot, poflefled two ami 'cmcnts
which are the beft calculated to enlivca the
dull, or footh the melancholy hours of iif^*
On the evening previous to cur dcpartunij,
the governor, as we have already meiilioned,
gave us another proof of his polite and hoA
pitable difpofition, by preparing a ball ex*
prefsly for our amufement.

About eight o'clock in the evening, the
company met at the governor's houie The
ladies, who were efcortfid by a number of
young men of Samboir^an, were dreifed after

the '■

-v-, ,« »

!,■? ! ''

-- . VOYAGESTOTHE

1788. *^® manner of the ifland, which borders on>
February, as we may fuppofe it to be borrowed, from
the fafliions of Manilla. It confifted of a
veil which fell gracefully to the ancles, and
was fo arranged as to heighten real charms,
* and to make one fancy beauty even where

nature had denied it. The arms alone were
bare; but the folds were fo contrived as
half to difcover the bofom, while the en-
tire figure, in all the fimplicity of nature,
could not be defcribed as being concealed
from the exploring eye. — ^Their ancles and
wrifts were adorned with bracelets of gold,
which gave, as may be fuppofed, fomewhat
of a richnefs to an appearance that was al-
ready elegant. Many of them were extremely
handfbme; nor did certain arch looks, which
appeared to be habitual, though they were
heightened by the dance, render them lefs
agreeable. The Fandango was performed
in its utmoft perfe<5lion ; — the minuet was
not difgraced by their motions, — and En-
glifli country dances, fcveral of which were
performed in compliment to us, have been
often exhibited with far lefs grace and agi-
lity in many of our beft affemblies, than
in this diilant and remote corner of the
' ■ , '' ' . Philip-

NORTH AVEST COAST OF AMERICA. y^

Philippine Iflands. — This amufement lafted 1788.
till twelve o'clock, when all the company Februart.
retired, with every appearance of the moft .,
perfeft fatisfadlion.

For fuch means of innocent amufement,
the people are indebted to the venerable
padre, who himfelf joined in the dance. In-
deed it would have been not only to the
honour of Spain, but of the religion it pro-
fefles, if fuch men had been employed »
who, like this amiable prieft, could make
their miflions a fource of comfort and happi-
nefs, inftead of accompanying them with
that feverity of difcipline, and cruelty of
compulfion, which renders converfion infin-
cere or mifunderftood, and is in fuch dire£t
oppofition to the mild and benevolent fpiric
of Chriftianity.

The governor, however, with all his ci-
vility, would not permit us to land any in-
ftruments, in order to make agronomical
obfervations ; we were therefore obliged,
under confiderable difadvantages, to take
them on board the (hips.

The latitude of the anchoring ground
was, by the medium of feveral good meri-
dian obfervations, 6° 58' North, and the

^ loiigi-

.i ^\:

«5 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. longitude, by twenty obferved diftances of

ft9KVA%y. the fun and moon, taken by good fextants,

122% 28' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time

the flag-ftaff on the fort bore North half

Eaft, diiiant half a mile.

The anchorage before the fort is foul and
rocky : a-breaftof the town it is much bet-
ter; a fandy bottom and well Iheltered,
1 except from the South Weft quarter, and

even then the wind has not fufficient range
to produce a fea, or to be attended with
any circumftance of danger.
It will not, I truft, be contliered as foreign
to the defign of this work, if I interrupt the
progrefs of my voyage, for a few pages, to
offer fuch obfcrvations and notices as 1 had
occafion to make on the paflage between the
^ Northern Pacific Ocean and the China feas ;

fome knowledge of which courfe, whether
it be purfued to the Northward or South-
ward of the Philippines, muft be of confi-
derable ufe to Oriental commerce, and be
. particularly eifential to ihips that take the
Eaftern paflage to China, which is occa-
fionally preferred, particularly during a war,
' by thofe who are bound to the port of Can-

ton, in the North Eaft Monfoon.
' , » L Nautical

■( |**f- yiM »^»» w^ T. nis^ ^^«*-*.*v,i^-ito^^ J,

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. yy

Nautical obfervatlons are, at all times, i^gS.
of thegreateft importance, and we offer fuch Februart.
as we have made, to the judicious reflection
of thofe who may be particularly interefted
in them. It muft, indted, be confidered, that
although in the track of the Felice and the
Iphigenia acrofs the China feas, along the
Philippines into the Pacific, no dangers were
vifible to us ; yet others, purfuing this route,
may be lefs fortunate, as this very track is
generally defcribed as abounding with many.
We indeed found a clear navigation, nor
have we any reafon to doubt, but that, with
a proper degree of precaution, fhips might
find a fafe and eafy entrance into the China
feas by Magindanao and the channel of
Bafilan, ' '

The Eaftern feas are certainly fet thick
with perils, which, of courfe, render their
navigation exceedingly precarious ; nor are
the difficulties of it leflened by the circum-
ftance that thofe perils are, in a great degree,
unknown. Ships, indeed, which purfue the
common track acrofs the China feas, with
the South Weft Monfoon, have not much
to fear, if they do but make the different
iflands to procure frelh departures.— Lunar

obferva-

r#w

pi ' l'^

< /,

I ;

«3 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. obfervations cannot at all times be taken, a
February, circiunftance which (hould animate vigilance
and quicken precaution ; of which, too much
cannot be exercifed in this arduous navi-
gation.

It would, by no means, be prudent for
Ihips to work up the China feas againft
the North Eaft Monfoon ; and it would, of
courfe, be equally hazardous to work down
them during the bio /ing of the South Weft.
The currents are in fuch number, and withal
fo various, that a fhip is imperceptibly hur-
ried into the midft of danger, in which
the utmoft Ikill and adlivity will be feldom
able, even in copper-bottomed veflels, to
efcape deftru£lion.

It is true, that there have been examples
of ftiips who have accompliflied their voy-
age againft the reigning winds ; but they
Ihould rather be reprefented as extraordi-
nary inftances of good fortune, from having
efcaped a variety of dangers, any one of
which might have proved fatal, than be
cited to encourage others to purfue a fimilar
navigation : for, beiides the rilks of a voy-
age, even if it ftiould be performed under
thefe circumftances, the chances are vtrj
•.. . v' much

f I

NpRTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. mg

much againft the poflibility of doing it, 1788.
when the monfoons blow ftrong either one Fkbruarv.
way or the other.

As (hips, even in the periodical winds,
are expofed to dangers, it is effentially ne-
ceffary that they ihould, at all times, be
provided with a couple of chronometers ;
by the aid of which inftruments the pbfi-
tions of (hips may be afcertained ; for as
they are liable to flop, ihould fuch an ac-
cident happen to one of them, the portion
of time elapfed, may be determined by the
other, particularly if they are obferved
every four hours, — a circumftance which
fhould be an obje£t of the moft careful at-
tention. Their regularity alfo fhould be
examined and proved at every place where
the (hip ftops a fufficient time to make the
neceffary trial.

There are many recent inftances of very
fatal accidents which have happened to
velTels, during the regular monfoons, from
the want of thefe very ufeful inftruments.
_..., The (liip Hornby, bound from Canton
to Bombay, in the month of December, >
1788, in a gale of wind, fell in with the .}

ifland Pula Sapata, in the China feas, and

was

'..^i

'■ i s
V

I '

i \

\ '
'I \

VdYAGfES TO fHB

1788. was witkiii a moment of being daihed to
FsnuA^RY. pieces. She wa$ (o clofe to the land, that
nothing could have faved her but the violent
rebound of the furge from the fide of a rock ;
when, by being extremely alert in fetting
fail, (he moft fortunately got round it.

A Dutch (hip in the fame year, was loft

on the Prata fhoal ; her crew was faved

. Ml the long-boat, and got fafe to Canton.

^ In the year 1789, and fome time in the

month of June, the (hip Lizard, bound

from Bombay to Canton, was wrecked on

the Lincoln (hoal. The captain and feven

men were all which were faved of her crew.

' ' After undergoing the greateft hard(hips and

diftrefs in a fmall boat, they arrived at

Canton.

The x4.rgyle(hire, a large country (hip,
bound from Bengal to China, was luppofed
to have been loft fome where in the China
leas.

The number of Spanifh and Portuguefe

ihips which have been loft in thefe feas al(b

are by no means inconfiderable; fo that too

much vigilance and precaution cannot be

, ' employed in fuch an hazardous navigation.

' '•:■' ,. -;. ,, ^ The

« I

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERIQA.

The fhip Cornwallis, of eight hundred iy88.
tons burthen, commanded by Captam Wil- i-EBRUAKt.
liam Counfill, failed down the Chir»a feas
on her voyage to Bengal, in the month of
May 1789, when it was to be fuppofed
that the South Weft Monfoon was fet in,
and encountered fuch a variety of fhoals,
rocks and iflands, that her efcape was con-
iidered as miraculous. And had (he not
been uncommonly well appointed, and na-
vigated with fuperior Ikill and ability, in
all probability fhe would never have reached
Bengal. < • '

As the following Extra£l of a Lettet
from on board this (hip may be of conll-
derable ufe to future navigators of thefe
parts, no apology can be confidered as ne- _, .
ceffary for the infertion of it : ^

*« Malacca, July ^^ 1789.

"WE arrived here on the 27th of

June, after a paffage of forty- five days,

*' from China, which we confider as ex-

** tremely tedious for fo prime a failer as

** the Cornwallis. In our paffage down.

Vol. I. F. *' we

S - ■.

I •■

\ ■

f .-

) I

-^J

■,':

;
s

ii-
(1

I ;■

'jf

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. ** we had an aftonifhing fet to the Eaft*
FtBKUARY. t« ward : we could not make either the
** Macclesfield or Pula Sapata. The firft
" land that appeared to view was on the
«* «8th of May, bearing South Weft half
*' South, diftant four leagues, with a reef of
** dangerous rocks and breakers, which we
'* fuppofed to be the Andrades, being nearly
** in the latitude of them. — At half paft
** tvvd, P. M. a (hoal was feen from the
" deck, bearing South Weft half Weft,
diftant two miles ; and at four, ftanding
to the South Eaft, we were obliged to
tack for another (hoal, bearing South
Eaft by Eaft, diftant two miles. On
** the South Eaft end of this Ihoal, is a
** low fandy ifland, on which we faw the
appearance of a wreck: the weather was
very fqually ; during the night we deem-
ed it prudent to ftand under an eafy fail
to the Northward, fearing this chain of
ftioals might extend more to the South :
the next morning atda}'-break, we wore
" and ftood to the (hoals, and at ten, A. M.
" made them. We were then obliged to
*' haul to the Eaftward and Eaft North
" Eaft, till three P. M. and thus, by de-
• V '■ ** grees

((

«(

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

((

grces, to clear the difFerent (hoals which iy88.
prefented themfelves to our view ; eleven February,
•* of them forming a deep circle or curve,
•• and are backed to the Weftward by very
** cxtenfive branches. They appear to ex-
*• tend from each extreme, Eaft North Eaft,
" to Weft South Weft, and about twenty-
** five miles in extent : and what adds to
" the danger in making them is, that they
" are even with the furface of the water,
•* which if fmooth and unruffled, they can-
** not be feen, there not being a rock about
<* them but the firft.

*• After clearing this reef, we fteered to
** the Southward ; and the next day found
•* ourfelves in a clear fea.

" On the 30th at noon, breakers were
" feen bearing North Weft by North, dif-
tant eight or nine miles. This reef ap-
peared to trend the fame as the laft, and
has dangerous rocks along the edge : its
extent is about three leagues: when the
" reef was feen, we were in the latitude of
8° 47' North, by a good obfervation ; and
by ieveral fights of the fun and moon,
the longitude was 114° 14', 45'' Eaft,
*' which made us feventy-two miles to the

F 2 , . " Eaft -

«(

((

> i"-

84
1788.

February.

VOYAGES TO THE

Eafl of our accounts. After clearing thefe
(hoals» we flood to the South Wefl;
when, on the morning of the 4th of
June, at five A. M. a low fandy ifland
was difcovered with a rock on it : this we
faw very plain from the quarter-deck ;
and before we could alter the fhip*s courfe,
we were within three quarters of a mile
of a moft dangerous reef of rocks, which
juft prefented themfelves above the water.
We had a fine breeze during the night,
and were going five or fix knots an hour,
but fortunately it died away about four
in the morning ; fo that half an hour
more of dark, or the continuance of this
breeze, would have been our inevitable
deftru(£lion. This reef trends North North
Weft, and South South Eaft, and is five
miles long. Its latitude is 7° 52' North,
and its longitude nearly 112° 32' Eaft.
From our providential efcape, we called
the ifland Providence Ifland, and the reef,
Sebaftian's Reef.

*' The many dangers we have been ex-
pofed to, has made it exceedingly fa-
tiguing : — At laft we made the Natumas

" and

• "i-

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. g^

•' and Anambas, which arc both egregioufly i-gg,
** miftakcn, both in latitude and longitude." February

It appears therefore to be ad vi fable for
(hips bound to China from Europe, if they
do not reach the Straits of Sunda in the
month of September, to determine on the
Eaftern paflage, in order to avoid the diffi-
culties we have juft defcribed ; for, though
the Eaft-hidia (hips Walpole, Belvedere and
Walfingham, arrived in China in the month
of November, 1787, it is a rilk that can
never be juftified but by the moft urgent
neceffity.

The Walfingham came up along the coaft
of Borneo, and was even favoured with a gale
of wind at South Weft, on the coaft of the
Philippines, but neverthelefs efcapcd fuch "j^,
dangers as no prudent man would wi(h to
re-encountcr. — The Walpole reached the
coaft of Luconia, and made a good paflage,
though Captain Churchill found it equally
dangerous; while the Belvedere, Captain
Greer, puftied at once through the China
feas, though the monfoon was fuppofed to
have fet ftrongly in.

Thefe are inftances of good fortune, which
are rather to be confidcrcd as happy efcapes

1 L ' 1

from

VOYAGES TO THE

:■ «•

1^88. from danger, than examples to imitate:-—
FrBRUARY. for it would furely be much more prudent
to determine on an Eaftern paflkge, particu-
larly if Java- head is not reached by the tenth
of 0£tober.

The flraits of Balli or Alias may, in this
cafe, be fafely pafled, as Mr. Dalrymple's
charts are very accurate; from thence the
courfe is continued to the MacafTar Straits,
employing every necefl'ary precaution on ac-
count of the iflands and fhoals that lie
between thofe ft raits.

The ftraits of Macaflar are not without
dangers, though they arc but few, and well
afcertained ; the Experiment and Captain
Cook pafled through them, and made very
good obfervations on their paflTage*. The
Experiment, indeed, got on (hore, and re-
ceived fome little damage. In the North
Weft Monfoon there is generally a current
fetting through to the Southward ; the wa-
ters from the Pacific Ocean and Sooloo Ar-
chipelago being confined here, form, in ge-
neral, this Southerly drift. In the paflage of

* Thefe fhips were bound on a trading voyage, from
Bombay to the North Weft coaft of America, in 1786.

the

NORTH WEST C.OAST OF AMERICA.

the flraits the winds are variable; but when 1788.
it is cleared, they will be found to the Eaft i kbruarv.
and Ead South Eafl ; and there is then little
or no reafon to doubt the being able to reach
up under the fhore of Magindanao, which
is preferable to the ifland of Sooloo : here,
at times, the winds are Wefterly, particu-
larly in November and Decembjr ; the
making Sooloo, therefore, would be attended
with difadvantagcs, as the currents and
winds might render it difficult to get up to
Magindanao, independent of a number of
dangerous (hoals and coral reefs, that arc
fcattered between Sooloo and Bafilan : where-
as, between the head of the MacafTar Straits
and the South Eaftern extremity of Magin-
danao, there is no wtry imminent danger. —
We failed through this channel, between Je-
lolo and the ifland of Morintay, and re-en-
tered the Pacific Ocean to the Southward of
this ifland.

The currents here fet South Wefl, and
with the wind to the Eaftward ; it is ncver-
thelefs very pra6licable to reach tlic ifland of -

Bafilan, and, of courfe, Samboiiigan, where <

every neceflar\' refrefliment is to be prccured.

We then fl:ccrcd our courfe to

>anguii

thoft

-i ■* - i^

l\ r,-^..-.,^.

^rr

VOYAGES TO THE

? 1 '

1788. thofe fmall Iflaiids which lie between it and
Februartt. the Southern extremity of Magindanao. Thefe
iflands are tolerably high, and well wooded,
and furrounded with no danger but what ig
apparent, and therefore may be avoided.
Sanguir is well inhabited, and affords re-
frefhments of various kinds. It is alfo faid
to abound in fpices, with which it carries
on a trade with Magindanao. We found
Eaftt^rly winds to prevail here with very
little deviation.

Between the iflands of Bafilan and San-
guir, there are feveral fmall iflets, which are
not laid down in the charts ; but we did
not perceive any circumftancc of danger
about them.

The paflage by Samboingan is certainly
much more eligible than that to the Ealt-
ward of Magindanao. Indeed to get to the
Eaftward is a matter of great difficulty. — It
coft us a great deal of time, trouble and
vexation, to reach only the 147th degree of
longitude : befides the track is ftrewed, as it
were, with perils ; fmall, low fandy iflands,
and numbers of reefs of coral rocks are every
>yhere vifible, which, during a dark night,
^ould prove almoft a certain deflru<5lion ;

mf^^m^^rf-

■•'■' >:.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. gp

and, to encreafe the hazard, no foundings 1^88.
are to be procured, to give any warning of February.
the approaching danger. But, even if we
fuppofe thefe rocks and ihoals to be cleared*
it would not be prudent to tack before New
Guinea is weathered ; and, laftly, the courfe
tcihe Northward is to be confidered as lying
through thofe dangerous iilands, the Caro-
lines, whofe pofition has been confidered as
very uncertain, till it was afcertained by the
Iphigenia, as well as the contiguous flioals ;
and, in particular, the Shoal Abregoes, whofe
exiftence was univerfally doubted, but is
now found to be placed in the track of (hips
entering the China feas from the Pacific
Ocean, between Formofa and Luconia.

If the pafiTage to the Wcfl:ward of Magin-
danao be preferred, there is no danger to be
apprehended, at leafl: that we faw, from en-
tering the channel of Bafilan : in the latter,
confiderable overfalls will be found, but no-
thing elfe, up to the place of anchorage
off Fort Caldera. This paffhge is alfo by
much the (horteft ; and, \ii our opinion,
in every refpe<3: equal to that of the Pacific
Ocean, exclufive of the very important con-
fideratlon of refrefliing the crews of (hips.

/;.

— '— -'^'

VaYAGES TO THE

f-iii;

1788. On leaving Samboingan, the navigator
February, fliould hug the fliore of Magindanao clofe on
board, as much as poflible, as the wind will
be generally found to blow ofF the ihore,
which is fteep clofe to, and no danger to
be apprehended from it. The direftions of
anchorage are already exprefled in the ac-
count which has been given of the fet-
tlement of Samboingan . -

From Magindanao, it will be proper to
fteer a diredt courfe for the South part of
the Ifland of Panay; — if the wind is not
very favourable, it will be neceffary to bor-
der the coaft of the Ifland del Negros ; nor
is there any danger to be apprehended from
fleering clofe to Panay, as it has a very bold
coaft, till the Weft point of the Ifland of
Mindoro is reached : from whence the courfe
lies to the coaft of Luconia, where confi-
derable advantage will be received from the
currents which run to the Northward, during
the period of the North Eaft Monfoon, off
Cape Bolinou, from twenty to twenty-five
miles 'n twenty-four hours, and oftentimes
as high as Cape Buxadore.

The greateft precaution ftiould be obferved
about the period when the monfoons change,

3 ' — a time

/I ::

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA*

—a time to be dreaded above all others in 1788.
the China feas ; — if, therefore, fhips (hould Februart.
have reached Sambolngan any time in the
month of Oftober, it would be extremely
proper for them to remain there till the
North Eaft Monfoon is fet ftrongly in. After
October, the paffage to and from Manilla
to China is always certain. Even the word:
of the Spanifh (hips, and they are the moft
miferably equipped of any vefl'els in the
world, work up the coaft of Luconia to the
height of the ifland, aflifted by the Norther-
ly current ; they then ftretch over to the
coaft of China, and are certain of efFedling
their paffage.

On the whole it is evident, that this route
is the fafeft, as well as the moft expeditious ;
and, at all events, fuperior^to that of the
Weft coaft of Borneo.

If the Pacific Ocean ftiould be preferred
to f ffe6l the paffage by ftretchiiig to the
Eaftward, and then tacking to weather Lu-
conia, it would be right to ftand to the
Eaft till the coaft of New Guinea is wea-
thered, and the 1 50th degree of longitude
is reached ; when it is probable, that the
dangerous groupe of iflands, called the Ca-
rolines,

i^''L

■f '.

im-

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. rolines, will be weathered; amongft which
February, are included the Pelew, and other low
iflands, which are furrounded by reefs of
rocks to a great diftance, and are without any
foundings to give notice of danger in dark
and ftormy nights.

Between Magindanao and New Guinea,
there are fo many clufters of thefe low
iflands, as to require, and almoft to baffle
the utmoft vigilance and precaution.

When to the Northward of thefe dangers,
the Bafhee Jflands may be made, feen by Dam-
pier, or the Ifland of Botol Tobago Xima, feen
by Lord Anfon ; but it would be the beft way
to make the latter, exercifing every poflible
degree of attention to avoid the Abregoes
{hoal, which is extremely dangerous. When
Botol Tobago Xima Is vifible, one may fleer
without the leaft appreheniion, even in the
darkeft night. South Weft 14 leagues, when
the rocks of Ville Rete will be rounded at
a moderate diftance, and the China feas may
be entered by hauling up to the Northward
and Weft ward. There is a fmall rocky
iflet, bearing nearly Eaft of Botol Tobago
Xima, fome miles diftant ; — and great atten-
tion ftiould be paid that the former may not

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 03

be miftaken for the latter; The rocks of 1788.
Ville Rete are extremely dangerous ; they FfiBRUA*^-
form in a clufter, and are furrounded by
breakers ; the largeft of them is about the
height of a fmall (hip's hull out of the wa-
ter : they bear off rhe South end of Formofa>
South Wefterly, five leagues. We thought
that, from the maft-head, we could diftin-
guifti a channel between them and For-
mofa.

The laft time we made Botol Tobago
Xima it was almoft dark, — the weather
ftormy and hazy ; and, very (hortly after,
it blew a tremendous gale of wind at Eaft.
We fleered South Weft 15 leagues, and
hauled up Weft and Weft North Weft, and
entered the China feas at midnight, without
feeing any thing of Formofa. The longi-
tude of thefe places is laid down by us from
good obfervations of the fun and moon. In
this run, the general account muft be laid in
having a ftrong current fetting to the Weft-
ward, from the moment a ftiip puts her
head to the Northward. !

The land generally made on the coaft '

of China is about the Pedro Blanco, or
White Rock : from thence, within the

Lema

■I '

f['i'i

i: ) k

mi i\

04 VOYAGESTOTHE

1788. Lcma Iflands, is a fafe paHage to Canton,
rsBRUARY. anjj ^q danger of any kind to be appre-
hended. By this courfe the Prata ihoal,
\ whofe dangers are fo well known, is
avoided.

If a (hip enters the China feas by making
the Bafhee Iflands, her paflhge to Canton
may be endangered, from the ftrong South-
erly currents at that feafon. This palfage,
therefore, is not fo fecure as the former,
particularly as the Spaniards have feized
thefe iflands, and eftabliflied a force on them,
though at prefent of no great ftrength or
power.

The Bafliee Iflands, however, are bold
and fafe; — we were here in 1786, and pro-
cured refrefliments. It may not be generally
known that the Spaniards have taken pof-
feflion of them. But fo it is ; and a governor
refides on Grafton Ifle, with about an hun-
dred foldiers, feveral officers, a few priefl:s,
and five or fix pieces of cannon, which are
mounted before his houfe ; but without for-
tification or defences of any kind.

Our flay at thefe iflands was fo fliort, as
not to afford us an opportunity of attaining
any thing but a very gencrri information

. ; con-

V--.

.,* .

l;-^*1

f^JJ^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. p^

concerning them; but, as very few fhips 1788.

have ever been known to vifit the Baihee Fbbrvary.

iflands, it may not only fatisfy curiofity,

but be of ufe to the Oriental navigation, to

offer fuch intelligence as we poflefs from

our own obfervation, or the information of

others.

Thefe iflands, which are fituated between
Formofa and Luconia, are five in number,
— befides four fmall rocky iflets, which,
however, are covered with verdure. Dam-
pier gave the following names to the five
larger of them : Grafton Ifland, which is
the mofl confiderable, — Monmouth Ifland,
which is the next in fize, — Goat Ifland,
Orange Ifland, and Bafliee Ifland, which are
much fmaller than the two former. They
are inhabited by a race of fl:rong, athletic
men, who have been hitherto happy in a
foil that produced every thing neceflary for
their fupport and comfort : — But we cannot
fuppofe that the happinefs thefe people pof-
fefled will find any addition from the yoke
of Spain. 1

Orange Ifland lies North and South, and
is almofl: inacceliible on every fide : it is
entirely flat at the top : at the difi:ance of

four

■'in

I'-

fSv

o5 VOYAGESTOTHE

1788. four leagues, on approaching it from the

Fb«rua»v. China feas, the peak on Grafton Ifle is very

difcernable over this high flat. We Ihould

fuppofcj that the ifland is fifty feet above the

level of the fea.

On the North of this ifland are four rocky
ifles, called Anfon*s Rocks ; two of them are
within three miles of the North end of the
ifland. — We entered this paflage and dif-
covered no danger : a large fhip might even
brufli her fides againfl: Orange Ifland. The
other two fl:and four or five miles from the
former, and from that paflage which Lord
Anfon made in the Centurion.

Grafton Ifland is fituated to the Eaft of
Orange Ifland ; fl:ands nearly North and
South, is of confiderable extent, being about
thirteen leagues in circumference, and has a
good anchorage on the Wefl:ern fide. About
two miles to the Southward of the town
where the governor refides, is a fmall fandy
bay, where we anchored in nine fithoms,
about half a mile from the ftiore ; the found-
ings gradually decreafing from forty fathom
to nine fathoms ; but the bank does not
run off more than two miles. The latitude
of the fliips pofition was 20" 36' North, and

li-,;,/^

•— '.i^--ji^«, ^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

longitude, by obfervatlon of fun and moon,
122° Eaft of Greenwich.

The appearance of this ifland is extreme-
ly beautiful and luxuriant ; and the fup-
plies we received very well anfwered to the
charming fcene of their produdtion. The
natives brought us abundance of the fineft
yams in the world, with fugar cane, taro
root, plantain and other vegetables : we alfb
received hogs and goats in great plenty, but
very little poultry. Iron was the favourite
commodity of thele people, though beads,
at times, feemed to poflefs an equat, if not
fuperior value. — Indr J, fince the Spmiards
have poUeffcd themfelves of thefe iflands,
money as well as iron are in ufe among
them. In the time of Dampier, beads were
the only medium of their commerce. We
left the governor a breed of Bengal fheep,
which, when put on fhore, roamed in a
clover pafture, and on a foil of exuberant
fertility. There can be no doubt but that
thofe animals will thrive in their new abode,
and that future navigators flopping at thefe
iflands, will meet with a plentiful fupply.

The water on the ifland is very fine, In
great abundance, and clofe to the beach ; a

Vol. I. G fmall

n
1788.

February,

I-?", 'J

FiBRU

*
ART.

' »J

VOYAGES TO THE

fmall refervoir being formed tbcrc, which
is fupplied by a rivulet that flows from the
mountains.

A Spanifh force arrived at thefe iflands
fome time in the year 1783, to take poflef-
fion of tliem ; with what view, it is by no
means difficult to conjecture, when it is
known that they were fuppofed to contain
mines of gold. We certainly faw a confi-
derable quantity of gold duft in the poflef-
fion of the natives, and feveral fmall pieces,
which, in all probability, had been walhed
down by the torrents from the mountains,
and found in the beds of the rivulets with
which thefe iflands abound. — Thefe, fome
of which we purchafed, were manufactured
into thick wire, and worn as ornaments in
their ears, or about the necks of the chil-
dren, • r-

They are well inhabited by a race of in-
ofFenfive people; whofe chief delight confifts
in drinking a liquor called bafhee, which
is diflilled from rice and the fugar cane. In
the evening, men, women and children
meet in crowds on the fliores, with torches
in their hands, and drink bafliee till they are
intoxicated, when they engage in dancing,

,...;'. ^ and

'%f-.

jjSfm^'

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «^

and difplay every mark of fatisfa^tioii and 1788.
contentment. It is, however, very much to February.
be feared that thefe iflanders mud have al-
ready found a mortifying interruption to
their feftive pleafures, from the tyranny
and bigotry of Spanifli dominion.

The weather in the South Weft Monfoon
is extremely tcmpeduous ; and when gales
of wind blow here, they are of the moft
ftormy and violent nature.

The currents and tides run rapid and
ftrong, particularly along the Southernmoft
of thefe iflands, all of which are low; it is
neceflary, therefore, that (hips (hould give
them a good birth in their paiTage between
thefe iflands and Formofa. • ^

CHAP.

. I

^i^.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

4^ 'M<

1.0 ^tam

1.1 f.'"'^

1I&

— A"

^j^

FholQgraptiic

Sdmces

Corporation

23 WaST MAM STIHT

«VnSTM.N.V. 14SM

(7U)B7a-4S03

'^:**!v ""

too

VOYAGES TO THE

17S8.

VlBRVARY.

CHAP. V.

I/.

\\ 1 '

I H

fcf

Tiicfday u

Departure of the Yelice from Samboingan .—■>

Pafs the Felice* s IJles, — Mention of the Orders

' andlnJiruSiions given by the Merchants Pro'

- prietors for performing the Voyage, — Extra"

ordinary Change in the Temper of the Buffa^

loes received on board, — Pafs the JJland of

Magindanao, — Rapidity of the Currents. —

^ Efcape the JJland of Providence, — Pafs the

' Talour IJlands, — IJland of Sanguir. — See the

• North Cape. — ImpojffibiUty of JVeathering it.

— Invariablenefs of the Trade Winds in the

Pacific Ocean.^Sear up to Leeward of the

North Cape. — Pafs the IJland Riou.— -The

Channel between Morintay and the Ifland of

Jelolo. — Fragrance of the Air. — Pafs the

Southern Extremity of Morintay. — Reach the

Sea. — The Latitude of Morintay afcertained.

ON the 1 2th of February, at day break,
we had loft fight of Samboingan, and
Durfued our courfe along the coaft of Magin-
danao : the latitude at noon was 6° 34'
North, and the extreme part of the ifland

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

lOI

in fight, bore Weft North Weft, diftant j^gg^
twelve leagues. The ifland of Bafilan bore Fkbruaky.
from South Weft by South, to Weft North
Weft four leagues : in this pofition the hill
we have already mentioned, as refembling
a Majidarin's cap, was very confpicuous.

We obferved two fmall iflands fttuated
between Magindanao and Bafilan, bearing
North by Eaft, diftant four miles : they
were not of any great extent, but entirely
covered with wood. As they bore no place
on the charts, they were named Felice's
Ifles.

A confiderable current had fet us during
the night to the North Eaft ; the wind blew
frefli from the Northward and Southward,
and at funfet we could but juft difcern the
ifland of Magindanao.

Previous to our departure from Samboin-
gan and feparation from the Iphigenia, the
orders and inftrudtions marked Number II.
in the Appendix, were delivered to Captain
Douglas, for the guidance of his future con-
dud. Thofe marked Number I. were de-
livered by the merchants proprietors before
our departure from China. Thefe inftruc-
tions contain at large the motives to, and

G3 real

' i'

102

VOYAGES TO THE

1 788. ^®^1 objefts of, the voyage ; and it will not
February, furely be erring from the truth, if it is
aiferted, that they do not contain a fingle
expreffion inconfiflent with that humanity,
or derogatory of thofe principles which it is
' the honour of British merchants to adopt, in
conducting their commerce in the different
quarters of the globe. Thefe orders and in-
ftrudions may be faid, without any fear of
contradi^ion, to breathe, in every part of
them, that fpirit of benevolence and juftice,
and to contain thofe honeft incitements to
induftry, which, in whatever part of the ha-
bitable earth they are exerted or employed,
muft ultimately tend to the honour of hu>
manity, and the advantage of our country.
Wednefdayi3 On the 13th, we continued our courfe,
with light and variable winds ; the weather
fultry and cloudy. By iix in the evening,
we had loft fight of the South Weftern ex-
tremity of Magindanao ; off which we had
perceived an ifland of a remarkable appear-
ance, that v/cre the form of a mountain,
whofe fides ihelved almoft perpendicularly
to the fea.

During the night we had heavy rain ; — our

courfe was to the Southward and Eaftward ;

y ' ' ^:-^V- '■■ •-•' V •. :■ ■ . ;-■ to

KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,^32

to clofe in with the South Bail end of Ma- 1788,
gindanao, which, on the following morning, fk^ruarv.
we had confiderably neared ; when we found "^ '^ '*
it to be high and mountainous, and entirely-
covered with wood from the fea to its fum-
mit. We frequently founded, but procured
no ground with one hundred fathoms of line.
The latitude at noon was 6° 2' North, at
four P. M. the extreme point of Magin<»
danao in view, bearing Eaft half North,
diftant eight leagues ; we hauled to the Eaft
South Eaft to double the Southern extre-
mity.

An extraordinary change now took place J'nday ij
in the fpirit and temper of the buffaloes
which we had received on board at Samboin-
gan. They were fo extremely wild and fierce,
that it was with great difficulty and fome
danger we were able to embark them ; and
fo dexterous are they in the management of
their horns, that even the natives did not
venture to approach them in their new fitua-
tion. But the natural ferocity of their na-
ture feemed at once to abandon them, and
they were already become fo tame as to eat
out of the hand, and were aftually much
Ipfs vicious than our other cattle*

G4 On

;

I04

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. Oil this' morning, we found that a con-
febkuary. fiJerable current had fet us to the South-

• wardofMagindanao. It bore from us North,
diftant about 1 1 leagues : the Southern ex-
tremity formed an high promontory, which
wore the appearance of an ifland.

We now congratulated ourfelves on en-
tering the Northern Pacific Ocean with fo

* Jittic trouble ; but this fati station was very
much dimiiiiflicd from the unfavourable
ftate of the wind, which we found to blow
from Eaft North Eail. The latitude at noon
was 4° 58' North, and the hnigitude 1 26" 36'
Eaft of Greenwich. At this time we per-
ceived two fmall iflnnds, bearing South
South Eaft, diftant five leagues ; and the pro-
montory of Magindanao was yet in fight,
bearing North, diftant 13 leagues.

The current now (ct us fo ftrongly to the
Southward, that we could !iot weather the
two little ifles feen in the South South Eaft ;
and perceiving n ckar channel between them
of a mile and an half, we determined to
pufli through it. Thefe iflands are lofty,
and covered with wood. From the North
and South points of the Northernmoft ifland,
there runs a fpit of land for half a mile ; and

fome

.5^-

• .-if

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

»o5

feme detached rocks from the Northernmoft i ^gg^
point, at about a mile diftancc : on thefe Fkbruahy.
rocks we oblervcd a few fcattered trees,
which render them very remarkable. When
in mid-channel between the iilands, we
founded, and had fixty fathoms, with white
and red Ihells. We had fcarcepaffed through,
when the Southernmoft ifland opened into
two dlftind ones, with the appearance Df a.
channel between them. At the fame time,
wc faw another ifland, bearing Eaft South
Eaft, diftant four leagues, which was alfb
covered with wood; and from the naft-
head we difcerned a dangerous (hoal and
reef of rocks, which extend near three miles
from its South end, and are very remarkable
from their whitenefs. Another ifland ap-
peared on the lee-beam bearing South South . '
Eaft, diftant eight leagues ; and, ir this
pofition, the promontory of Magindana* bore
Eaft North Eaft, diftant 1 8 or 20 leagues.

Our fituation differed, at this time, from
every chart in our poffeffion ; it became
neceflary, therefore, to proceed wiih the
utmoft precaution through this archi)elago.
The North Cape on the Ifland of Morintay,
by our account, bore Eaft North Eaft 134

5 miles ;

,q5 voyages to the

1788. miles; and the Cape of Good Hope, or
FiBRUARY. Northern extremity of New Guinea, South
Eaft, 470 miles. The wind kept (leadily to
the Eaft North Eaft ; and as we pafled thofe
ifltnds, we found ourfelves drifted almoft
" bo4ily to leeward by a rapid Southerly cur-
ren:. Such a continuation of unfavourable
circumftances left us no very flattering prof-
pef: of being able to weather the North Cape ;
befJes, we were not without apprehenfions
thai we (hould be obliged to bear away, and
run through fuch a dangerous clufter of
iflands as the Moluccas ; a navigation which
is conddered as the moft dangerous in the In-
dian Teas. We were not, however, without
fome expectations, that the near vicinity of
the Sun to the l^ine would produce fome
abate-nent of the influence of the North Eaft
Mon{)on. But, after all, taking both the
favourable and unfavourable circumftances
in a p'oper point of view, with the dark and
tediou; nights, the courfe before us could
not be coniidered but as replete with diffi-
culties and perils, both of which, muft be
greatly augmented, if tempeftuous weather
ftiould mfortunately overtake us.

Thf

f ■-

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. jq-

The current, like a vaft, but fteady, rapid 1^88.
ilream, fwept us bodily to leeward : — it ran, Fibruary.
at lead, three miles an hour ; and we had
every reafon to believe, that it ran much
ftronger at it approached the Straits of Ma-
caiTar. Indeed, it fwept us away fo much,
that we were not able to reach the ifland
feen in the South Eaft by Eaft quarter, by
five leagues.

During the night of the 15th, we had
a great deal of wind, but the Tea was uncom-
monly fmooth ; a certain fign that we were
in the vicinity of fome great body of land.
We kept fteering to the South Eaft by
Eaft, with a fteady gale to the Northward
and Eaftward. The courfes were hauled up
in the brails, in order to fee more diftinftly,
and to be in a ftate of preparation to haul
upon either tack, to avoid any immediate
or preffing danger. Thefe precautions proved
to be extremely neceflary ; for about mid-
night we difcovered, by the light f the
moon, that we were clofe to an ifland, co-
vered with a white fand, and almoft on a
level with the water. We very fortunately
perceived this dangerous objed, near half a
mile from us ; and had fuificient time to put

I the

■r

rill I Hill

io8

VOYAGES TO THE

'->f

1788. the helm a-weather, and bear up to leeward.

Fm&uary. We then founded, but found no ground
ivith an hundred fathoms of line. We con-
tinued, however, to give it a good birth until
two in the morning, when we loft fight of
it, and then rcfumed our courfe to the Eaft
South Eaft, with a frefh gale from the
North Eaft.

Thefe low, fandy iflands, which are fcat-
* ■ . tered every where near the Line, render the
navigation of thofe parts of a very perilous
nature. No foundings can be obtained to
warn the navigator of the approaching dan-
ger : fo that in a dark night no vigilance or
precaution is fufficient to fccure him from
the imminent hazard of dcftruflion.

Stfnrdayi( ^t funrife, land appeared, extending
from North Weft to Weft, at the diftance
of 16 leagues. The fmall, low, fandy iflet
feen in the night, we judge to lie in the
latitude of 4° i' North, and in the longi-
tude of 127° 10' Eaft, to which we gave the
name of Providence Ifland. At noon, the
latitude was 3° 32' North. During the
laft twenty- four hours, we experienced a
current that fet the ftiip ^^ miles to the
Southward. The longitude was 127" 58'

Eaft.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. |o^

Eaft. Land was now feen in almoft every 1788.
direction, extending from Eaft North Eaft FE»auA»r,
to Weft North Weft ; and, to the North-
ward and Eaftward, appeared broken and
detached, as if compofed of a groiipe of
iflands. The Weftward land was diftant
from us about 15 leagues.

At fun-fet, the body of the windward
ides bore North North Eaft, at the diftancc
of 14 leagues. Our pofition was now ex-
tremely doubtful; nor could we reconcile
it to any of the charts on board. We were,
indeed, inclined to fuppofe, that the land
to the North North Eaft confifted of thofe
iflands named the Valour, and the land to
the Weftward the Ifland of Sanguir. If our
conjedVures were right, the currents muft:*
have a<Sted on us with great force in fetting ^
us to the Southward ; and it now became
a matter of painful uncertainty if we fhould
be able to weather the North Cape ; which
was an objefk of the utmoft importance.

We had, indeed, flattered ourfelves, that,'
on our approach to the Line, we (hould have
experienced variable winds ; but hitherto
the wind ftood, as it were, immovably to
the Eaft ; nor did it feem inclined to give

1 1

VOYAGES TO TH2

lt#»-

1 1

■■mk

1788. «8 a point of advantage. Our prcfcnt fitu*
FiBRVAftv. ation, therefore, as well as our future pro-
fpedt, was clouded with uncertainty ; and
the chance was but too probable that we
ihould be driven to leeward of Jelolo, and
confequently be forced to encounter a navi-
gation of the mod difficult nature.

We were fully convinced, that, if the
North Cape could not be weathered, a paf*
fage muf); be attempted through the Mo-
luccas, to the Southward of Jelolo, where
there was good reafon to expert that we
fhould meet, if not the North Weft Mon-
fbon, at leaft with fuch variable winds as
would allow us to re-enter the Northern
Pacific Ocean by Pitt's Straits ; but even
then, it was by no means certain whether
we (hould be able to weather the coaft of
New Guinea ; nor could we refleft, with-
out extreme mortification, on being obliged
to run down its Weftern coaft, ahd, by En-
deavour's Straits, to reach the Southern
Ocean ; as fuch a courfe, during which the
long and dark nights would continually ob-
ftrud and delay our progrefs, muft, in the
end, totally defeat the purpofe of our voy-
age. — On the other hand, if we ftood to

the

NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA

III

the North, in order te heat round Nwr i^gg,
Guinea, againd a (Irong monfoon, thre FcmvARr,
was every reafon to believe that we (hoid
fail in our purpofe : indeed, we found t
neceifary to give it up, from the evidec
impoflibility of cffc£ling it, without a gre:
wafte of that time of which we had i
little to fpare. Thefe difficulties were c
a nature not eafily to be overcome; and th
event proves how narrowly wc efcaped froi
encountering the very obftacles which or
apprehenfions had placed before us.

During the night of the i6ih, we co»
tinued (leering to the Eafl South Eaft uncr
a prefs of fail. The moon (hone cltr
and bright, fo that any danger round te
horizon would have been readily difcernd*

On the morning of the 17th, land las Sunday 17
feen a-head, bearing in the direction of
£a(l, at the diftance of 1 2 leagues ; an<to
leeward, land was alfo feen bearing Soth
South Weft. The latitude at noon 'as
2** 40' North. The North Cape now bre
from us Baft, Northerly, at the diftace
of 1 4 leagues. The wind blew fteadily f>m
the North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, vth
a ftrong Southerly current. f

"f«t5-t»T-^_-.-;i iijliui !^

IIS

VOYAGES TO THE

if R

(lis

1788. Ve continued clofing in with the North

^M^d^^^s ^^' *" expectation of receiving the ad-

v^tage of a land wind ; when, at fix in the

etning, being within two miles of the

itnd of Morintay, we were obliged to tack

: ad ftsnd to fea for the fifft time. — We

Cdld not find any foundings with an hun«

dsd fathoms of line.— But although we

vre fo unfortunate as to fall to leeward

d the North Cape, we were determined

itc to relax in our endeavours, till we were

CQvinced of the impradicability of wea-

thring it; and it was with this view we

taccd and ftood to fea.

y ten o'clock in the morning, we were
agai clofe in with the ifland of Morin-
tay having tacked at midnight for the
\ ■ fho5 ; "but neither at fea, or clofe in with

the land, were we fo fortunate as to ex-
perince any alteration of the wind in our
favur. We had alfo the mortification to
obPve, that the Southerly currents- had
fet s during the night, bodily to leeward
of he pofition we had occupied on the
precding evening. At noon the latitude
was2° 35' North, and we had entirely loft
figh of the North Cape, which now bore
' , Eaft

I ■'

:«'•>

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA*

'»3

Eaft by North, diftant 17 leagues, immedi- 1788.
ately in the wind's eye. itBRUARV.

The impradlicabiiity of efFcfling our objeft
was now become fo apparent, as to embar-
rafs ourfituation with a choice of difficul-
ties. We difcovered, however, a narrow
channel between a fmall ifland, bearing
South South Eafl, at the diflance of four
leagues, and the ifland of Morintay. Je*
lolo was alfo very difcernible ; the Nor-
thernmoft point of which bore South Weft,
diftant only 13 leagues. Between this point
and the ifland we have juft mentioned,
there appeared an ext^nflve channel; we
had, therefore, no other alternative, but to
make our paflage through it, and round the
Southern extremity of Morintay, without
riflcing any more of our time, which was
now fb precious, in fruitlefs endeavours to
weather the North Cape againft winds, cur-
rents, and fea. '

We were perfe£lly aware, that, having
once entered upon this courfe, there would
be no poflibility of returning; as well as
that it might entangle us in the ftioals of
Jelolo and the deep gulph of Chiauw, wh.ch
is alfo filled with ftioals and fliallows, and

Vol. I. K into

114

Voyages to the

1788. into which the monfoon perpetually blows,
February, backed by conftant currents. Such a com-
bination of circumftances were more than
fufficient to convince us, that in profecu-
. ting our prefent defign we muft be governed
by an unremitting perfeverance. Accord-
ingly, at noon, we bore up for the channel
between the iflands Riou and Jelolo; and
by four P. M. it was open, and appeared of
fufficient breadth to navigate ; but in the
middle feveral fmall, low, and faifdy iflands
were fituated, which might, in fome mea-
fure, interrupt, if not endanger the naviga-
tion of the channel ; we, therefore, pur-
fued our courfe along the coaft of Riou, at
the diftance of twq^ miles : — the land was
every where covered with w^ood to the wa-
ter's edge ; but, as far as we could difcover,
without the veftige of an habitation. We
could not obtain foundings with forty fa-
thoms of line.

i\t half paft four, the high mountains of
Jelolo appeared to rear their fummits above
the horizon, which immediately fettled the
critical nature of our fituation. We had
now advanced fo far, that any attempt to
return would have been the extreme of
".1:. ' : . . folly;—

^.V

KORTH WES T COAST OF AMERICA. '^ nr

folly ; — the channel was alreaciy paffed, but 1788.
the Ifland of Morintay extended a great February.
deal farther to the Southward than any of
the charts had laid it down :— Riou was
alfo paffed ; and now a deep, capacious
channel was formed by Jelolo and Morintay,
of near 12 or 13 leagues in extent. The
great gulph of Chiauw was now under our
lee ; — arange of low, fandy iflands, conne£led
with ftioals, were fituated about five leagues
off Morintay, in the channel along which
we fteered. The moon (hone very bright,
or we (hould not have ventured to proceed
during the night. The wind blew ftrong
from the North Eaft; and men were con-
ftantly kept in both chains, to attend to the
foundings, as well as on the yards, to look
out for broken water, or any other circum-
ftance of danger. As we paffed thofe iflands,
the (hoals appeared very plain, at the dif-
tance of about four miles, and we could fee
a dreadful furf roUins: over them. Our
foundings were now from fix, feven, to
eight fathoms, very regular, and over an
hard, fandy bottom. On getting more out
into the channel, we had fourteen, twenty,
and fometimes even thirty fathoms, with
' H 2 the

ii6

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. tl^c fame kind of ground. Thefe iflands ex-
Fkbruary. tend near five leagues. North and Sbuth,-^
are about five leagues from Morintay, and
eight from Jelolo. We think it Would be
increafing the incidental hazards of this
channel to pafs between the iflands and
Morintay, as we fotihd a ftrong and rapid
current fetting us almoft due South.

It was greatly to our mortification that
We pa{!ed this channel during the night, as
we were thereby prevented from fending
boats on (hore to examine the nature of the
foil, and to look for turtle, as low, fandy
iflands are places where they are generally
found. In our pafl'age we perceived the air
to be ftrongly perfumed with fpicy odours ;
fome of us even imagijied they could dif-
tinguifli the peculiar fragrance of the nut-
meg plant.

As we cleared this chain of iflands and
Ihoals, we kept as clofe to the wind as pofli-
ble, to near, once more, the South end of
Morintay, which we happily effected by
Tuefdayi9 break of day on the 19th, being only three
leagues from it. We kept fleering thus till
noon, when the latitude was i** 47', the ex-
tremes of the ifland of Riou bearing from
s • ' South

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

South Weft by Weft, to South Weft, one ,«g8,
half South, diftant nine leagues; and the lEkKtARv.
extremes of Jelolo hearuig from South South
Weft, to South Eaft, diftant eleven leagues :
in this poHtion the channel we had failed
through was entirely clofed.

Our courfe was continued to the Eaft^^'c<i"'^f'^a>*°
South Eaft, with the wind from the North
Eaft, but light, till the 20th ; when at noon,
we had, to our great joy, a confiderable
offing towards the fea; the latitude was
1° 56' North, the ifland of Morintay bear-
ing from South by Weft, half Weft, to Weft
by North, half North, diftant fixteen leagues;
and the iflaud of Jelolo bearing from South
by Weft to South Weft, diftant fourteen
Jeagues. Thus we moft happily reached
the fea, without any material lofs of time,
and through a channel which, in any other
fituation, we fliould not have ventured to
pafs ; though we faw nothing to prevent a
fliip paffing it with eafe and fafety, by fol-
lowing the example of our precaution, iind
attending to the particular circumftances
which have been ju ft related; — The bear-
ings are marked with all pofiible care and
fidelity, for the benefit of any navigator,

H 3 who

t ifi
I

WkA*

-Ml>

ii8

VOYAGES TO THE'

1788. who, from preference or neceffity, may
Fbbruarv. think proper to follow our courfe.

From Magindanao we had hitherto ex-
perienced a continuance of ftrong currents,
fetting to the South and South Weft; the
wind invariably at North Eaft ; and, in the
whole track from that ifland to Morintay,
we have noticed moft of the dangers which
lie between them. ^

We confider the Southern extremity of
the ifland of Morintay to be in the latitude
of I** 40' North, and the longitude 1 28° Eaft
of Greenwich : — The land which was feen
on the 1 6th, muft have been, as we then
conjedured, the Talour Ifles, and the Ifland
of Sanguir. . . ^ . -

f\'^

CHAP.

t^^m

tmmmm^'mi

4M«I»

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ng

■ • -i: ' ■ V - /: -' '■.: ^-' ■ 1788.

Februart.

CHAP. VI.

Ship's Courfe purfued to the Eaflward. — Cur^
rents fit her to the IJland of IVagtew. —
Symptoms of the Scurvy atnotig the Crew. —
Wind veers ^ for the firfl I'ime, to the North
Wefl^'^Pafs Wagiew and the dangerous 7a-
tee IJles. — Freewill IJles feen.^'Nattves come
on Board. — I'heirjoy at feeing Iron, — Some
Account of thofi IJles, — I'heir Latitude and
Longitude, &c» — T^he Jlrong Currents in their
Vicinity,

_ * » • ■

NO material occurrence happened till the rrkiay 2a
22d ; the courfe was kept to the Eaft
South Eaft ; the wind blew fteadily from
the North Eaft, and we daily experienced a
Southerly current. At this time the Northern
extremity of New Guinea bore from us in
the dire<Slion of Eaft South Eaft, diftant
120 leagues, when we faw land, bearing
Eaft South Eaft, to Weft by North, at the
diftance of about nine leagues from the body
of it. The land to the VVeftward we con-
cluded to be the Ifland of Wagiew, which

H 4 forms

. ( 3

'■I >■;■

<i fai »i ' i " -

I20

VOYAGES TO THE

1 7S8. forms the Nor thernmoft part of Pitt's Straits ;
Fkbruarv. |3ut of the land to the Eaft we could form
no conjc£lure, as none appeared to be marked
on the charts in that diredtion. The lati-
tude at noon was only 22' North of the Line,
and the longitude was 131** 10' Eaft of
Greenwich. At this time the Ifland of
Wagicw extended from South Eaft by Eaft,
to Weft, and our diftance from the body of
it might be about (ix leagues.

In this fituation we were drifting bodily
to leeward on Wagiew, and found it to be
almoft impoflible to double the extremity
of this ifland, much lefs New Guinea,
without fome favourable alteration of the
winds, which had hitherto never varied from
the North Eaft ; beiides, the ftrong Souther-
ly currents had now fet the fliip thus far,
fo that we were altogether in a fituation fur-
rounded with circumftances of uncertainty
and embarraflment. We fcarce knew how
to expert a change that would be propitious ;
and, neverthelefs, a patient expectation of
it feemed to be almoft the only refource,
fuch as it was, that remained to us. The
weather was extremely fultry, but the winds
' were light, which was the only favourable
. cir^

«*•"

■ ^»* i l^ ii 1 til I !■»

. >i 'mm' I"

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

Ill

circumftance of which we could boaO. A | -gg^
pcrfevenng fplrit, however, fomctimes fur- februart.
mounts dangers that appear to be infur-
mountable, and we determined to conthiuc
the exertion of it.

This day, at noon, we had made no pro- Saturday ij
grefs whatever. The latitude was o° 20'
North of the Line; and the longitude was
131** 30' Eaft. We were now diftant only
five leagues from Wagiew, which extended
from Eaft South Eaft, to Weft South Weft.
The land bore a very different appearance
from that which wc had hitherto feen : —
it was extremely high, compofed of broken
and detached hills, and prefented, as far as
we could difcover, a very barren afpeft.—
It ran due Eaft and Weft, and all the hills
(helved abruptly into the fea. We could
procure no foundings with one hundred and
fifty fathoms of line. A fmall ifland was
alfo perceived in the North Eaft. quarter.

Thus were we approaching every moment
nearer to the land, without any profpedt of
fuch a change as would reward our perfe-
verance. — We had now been purfuing, for a
long month, an intricate and fatiguing na-
vigation, without having made any confi-

derablc

11 li

v''

I /\'

mtm

ff . t

\ I

!;•

123

VOYAGES TO THE

) ' 1

1 788. derable progrefs. The fultry heats alfo began
February, to affed ftveral of our people ; and the ex-
pe<Slatlon of the tedious paflhge to America,
with which we were threatened, rendered
the crewnot only difl'atisfied, but defpondent.
Symptoms of the fcurvy had begun to ap-
pear, in fpite of our ftriil adherence to thofc
admirable rules of regimen fo happily con-
ceived, and fuccefsfully pradlifed by Captain
Cook. We had now redoubled our atten-
tions to keep off the internal enemy that
threatened us, with an anxious expectation
of fuccefs, but we know not how far that
would have been gratified, if an alteration
had not taken place with us, which enlivened
the drooping fpirits of the crew, and ani-
mated them to new endeavours. At four
in the evening of this day,' when we were
within three leagues of the ifland, the wind
fprung up on a fudden from the North Wefl,
which was the firft favourable change we
had experienced fince our departure from
Samboingan.

We took an immediate advantage of this
fortunate circumflancc in our favour; the
courfc was altered to the North Eafl, and

all

■»lii '■■♦iMIii

nt'nif nil n

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

123

1788.
February.

all fail fet ; fo that, at fun-fet, we had got
a confiderable diftance from Wagicw.

More land was now (een a-head, which
was very low, and, from its detached, broken
appearance, wc judged to be a groiipe of
iflands. During the night we kept (landing
to the North Eaft, immediately for the land,
and the wind continued to the Weft North
Weft, which enabled us to keep our courfe
till day-break on the 24th, when we found Sunday 1+
ourfelvcs within three leagues of the land
feen on the preceding evening. It confifted
of feveral iflands, as we had conjectured,
which were very low, entirely covered with
wood, and furrounded by flioals and reefs of
rocks, and appeared to be of confiderable
extent. They bore from North Weft, to
North Eaft by Eaft, and were diftant from
each other about five miles.

As no fuch iflands were placed on the
charts, we thought proper to name them the
'I'atee Ifles, from the word, which was con-
tinually vociferated by the few natives who
came within hearing of the fliip. They are
fituated in 0° 20' of North latitude, and in
the longitude of 132° 2' Eaft of Greenwich.
They are very dangerous to approach, efpe-

cially

v.,;

\ i

\ 1

VOYAGES TO THE

)

• /

fSS. ci^lly ^11 ^1)*^ "iglit, and the (hip that fliould
FitiiitAftT. be tempted to pafs through them, would
inevitably be lod.

VVc faw feveral canoes paddling between
the reefs; and two of them, containing each
five of the natives, approached very near
to the fhip, vociferating the word Tateef
Tatee, with great violence ; but no tempta-
tion on our part could prevail on them to
come along- fide, though we held up many
of thofe articles which we thought the moA
likely to entice them to a nearer communi-
cation with us. — They regarded the (hip
• • with much apparent wonder ; and, from
their Various antic geftures, we h:.d great
reafon to fuppofe that they had never be-
fore fcen fuch an objeft. They appeared to
be of the fame race as the Papua people,
woolly- headed, perfedly black, and with
tiie features of the African negroes ; but in
their forms (lout ami athletic. They held
long (pears in their hands, pointed with bone,
which they, from time to time, brandiihcd
at us.

Their canoes were of a peculiar, and very
curious conftrudion; — they were very nar-
row and long, and, to keep them on a ba-
' / «_,^ lance,

mn^mM-aiiti

y:i^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERIC.V

««5

lance, a large mit-riggc r run out on one fide, i -88.
wi'h net-work between, nnade with ftrong »*«»KUABr.
cord, manufa«^uf *d from the rind of the
cocoa-nut. Ot\ thisi, which formed a kind
of a (lage, were placed theif arms, imple-
ments for fi(hing, &c. We wifhcd very much
to fend boats on fhore, but as the (hip could
not approach near enough to the land for the
purpofe of protecting them, on account of
the (hoals, we thought it highly imprudent
to expofe our men to any hazards

Towards noon, to our great joy, the wind
frefliened up from the North Weft, when
we bid adieu to the Tatee Ifles, and purfued
our courfe to the Northward and the Eaft-
ward, every league of which was become
of the utmoft confequence. At funfet, the
extremes of the Tatee Ifles bore from us
Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft, dif-
tant fiAre leagues : the tops of the trees juft
appearing above the water. At this time
the extremities of Wagiew bore from South
Weft by South, to South Weft by Weft,
diftant lo leagues.

We now purfued our courfe till the 27th,
with a favourable, but, in general, a light
wind. It thundered and lightened with

great

i>'

{r 7

126

VOYAGES 4TO THE

I'/

;;

1788. great violence, and the weather was ex-
Fkbuuarv. tremely clofc and fultry. The thermometer
was, at this time, at 88°, and very often at
92°. At noon the latitude was 56 minutes
North, and the longitude 136° ^^^ Eaft of
Greenwich. — Land, or rather trees, were
defcricd from the maft-head, bearing from
Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft:—
when we were tolerably near them, the cur-
rents ran very ftrong to the South South
Weft : as we were not able to weather the
Northern moft, we bore up to the leeward of
it, and there now appeared to be four fmall
ifles, the largeft of which was not more
than five leagues in circumference. We
ranged within three miles of the fliore,
when we obferved a large village fituated
on the fliore of the ifland, in the luidft of a
grove of cocoa-nut trees ; every other part
appeared to be an entire foreft, without
one interval of cultivation.

We were very foon vifited by a great
number of canoes, containing, altogether,
at leaft five hundred natives, all men. Each
of thefe canoes held fix or feven people, and
were of the fame conftru£tion as thofe of
the Sandwich Ifland s. The natives alio

bor«

">,

ies, were

KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

bore the appearance, and to our great afto-
ni(hment, fpoke the language of the hiha-
bitants of thofe ifles ; and the refult of our
obfervation is a conje£ture, amountnig al-
moft to a firm belief, that they are of the
fame race. They came along -fide the (hip
without ceremony and without arms, and
fupplied us with, a confiderable quantity of
frefli gathered cocoa-nuts and coir line,
which was repaid by bits of iron hoop, of
about an inch in length.

When the piece of iron was held up to
their attention, they were all feized with
a kind of filent, but expreffive joy, that can-
not be defcribed : but the man who procu-
red it, immediately began to caper and
dance round the deck, and laying down on
his back, tumbled and rolled about in fuch
an extraordinary manner, that we really
imagined he was fuddenly afFe(5led by forae
very Angular diforder, till he rofe up and
kiffed the bit of iron with thofe emotions of
extravagant joy, which manifeflcd the ex-
treme delight he felt at being in the poffef-
fion of what he efteemed fo great a treafure.
Ills comrades, from an anxious curiofity to
fee it, cro .vded round him ; but in a mo-
ment

127
1788.

FtlJRUARr.

I-

' m

■■ : t'

:, 1

•v:

128

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. ment he had plunged himfelf into the fea,
February, and then turning his head towards us, and
again ki/Ting the bit of iron, h^ fwam haftily
to the Ihore. Several iron hoops were now
ordered to be cut up, and each of our vifi-
tors was gratified with a bit of the preci-
ous metal, who all left us with reiterated
expreflions of the tnoft grateful acknowledge-
ment.

Thefe iflanders are of a frank, amiable
and confidential difpofition ; and they found
in return, that kind of reception from us,
which they will not quickly forget. We
obferved, however, in their canoes large
mats, which, on enquiry, they informed us
were ufed by them as coats of mail, and
were capable of refifting the attack of a
Ipear ; indeed, fo clofe and ftrong is their
texture, that at a very fmall diftance, they
could fcarcely be penetrated by a ball from
a piftol. It appeared, therefore, and the
reflexion is not of a pleating nature, that
thefe amiable people knew the arts, and, of
courfe, muft frequently feel the horrors of
war ; and that the god of battle beholds
his vidims in the remoteft corners of the
globe.

This

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

129

This groupe of iflands was originally dif- 1788.
covered by Captain Carteret, in his voyage February.
round the world. He was pleafed to give
them the name of the Freewill Ifles, from
the frank and unreferved condu(5l of the
inhabitants. It may not, perhaps, be gene-
rally remembered, that one of them accom-
panied him in the Swallow: — He was called
Tom Freewill, and died in his paflage to
the Celebes.

The interval that had elapfed from the
period of Captain Carteret's vifit to thefe
iflands, to the time of our appearance be-
fore them, occupied fo confiderable a fpacc,
that this young man's departure with him,
might very naturally be fuppofed to have
been forgotten by his countrymen. But,
on the contrary, feveral of the natives point-
ed to the fhip, and then to fea, and by other
fignificant geftures gave us to underftand,
that one of them had been carried away.
As we were well acquainted with the cir-
cumftancc from Captain Carteret's journal,
we, in return, informed them that their
fugitive countryman was no more : when
they all entered into an immediate confer-
ence, and then renewed their communi-

di.

^ 1

Vol. I.

cations,

'1 ■

i.v >•

% J

I2Q VOYAGES TO THE

1788. cations, with art air of perfect indifference.

February. At leaft there did not appear to be any one

among them who, as a friend or relation,

exprefl'ed the leaft concern for poor Tom

Freewill's fate !

We now refumed our courfe to the North
Eaft, with a gentle gale from the Weft
North Weft. On palling to the North-
ward of the iflands, we obferved that they
were conne(Sled by very dangerous reefs of
rocks, which extended three or four miles
in every direftion. At funfet, the body of
the iflands bore North North Weft, at the
diftance of four leagues. ■ i .,

ThurfJay 28 The Weather on the 28th became fqually ;
the wind veering continually from North
to North Eaft, fo that we feldom made good
our courfe better than Eaft, or Eaft by South.
At noon the latitude was 0° 55', the winds
light, with heavy fqualls of rain, and much
thunder and lightning.

Friday 39 On the 29th in the morning, as we were
ftanding to the North, with a light air from
the South Eaft, land was difcovered from
the maft-head; as v/e ran (;ed up with it, we
found it to be the Freewill Ifles. This was
a circumftance which we could not eafily

recon-

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

kjl

reconcile; and as the iflands in this ocean 1788.
bear a ftrong refemblance to each other, we, F"Ruary.
at firft, thought that we muft be miftaken ;
but the point was foon fettled by the arrival
of many of our late friends, who came
paddling through the reefs to bring us a pre-
fent of cocoa-nuts, for which, they were
with fome difficulty perfuaded to take any
thing in return. One man, in particular,
held up a bit of iron which he had received
from us but two days before, as a token that
he remembered his benefadlors.

At noon the latitude was 1° 7' North ;
and, by a medium of the feveral diflances
of the fun and moon, the longitude was
I37*» 10' Eaft. The body of Freewill IHes
now bore South Eaft half Eaft, at the dif-
tance of four leagues; which leaves them in
the latitude of 0° 56' North of the Line, and
in the longitude of 137** Eaft of Greenwich,

The currents muft on the 28th have fwept
us bodily to leeward ; but, as we imagined,
not with fo much force as to occafion our
falling in again with thefe iflands; — on the
contrary, we found that, on ftanding to
the North, for the laft twenty-four hours,
though we were fteering Eaft, our courfe

I 2 was

■w

i3i

VOYAGES TO THE

S:i

1788. was not much better than South, a little
March. Eafterly.

atiuday 1 We did not lofe fight of thefe iflands till
the firfl- of March ; when, at noon, our la-
titude was 1° 40' North ; the wind, as ufual,
veering from North Eaft, to Eaft North
Eaft. The weather was gloomy, unfettled,
and very fultry. At times, we had heavy
fqualls of rain, which proved very unwhole-
fome for the crew, from conftaiit damps,
a clofc atmofphere, and wet cloaths. To
thefe unpleafant circumftances maybe added,
our flow progrefs to the North, which fo
affe<5ted their fpirits, and of courfe relaxed
their affcivity, that all the attention and care
of the officers were requifite, to check the
• progrefs of fuch an alarming evil.

C H A P.

,,wfl*8r, ^-.vTT

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

CHAP. VII.

^33

1788.

March.

l^xtremeHeat of the JVeather — Very tempejluous,
— Spring the Foremaji, — Lofs of fome of the

■■ Cattle. — Lofe all the Goats. — DcJirtiBion of
many of the Plants intended for the Sandwich
IJles. — Reafons for pointing the Ship's Courfe
to the North JVeJl, lic^^Modc of vidfuaUing
the Crew. Occupations on Board. — Intention
of Building a Fcjfel of ffiy Tons in King
George'' s Sound. — Carpenters complete her
Moulds and Model. — Ch'mefe Carpenters ig-
norant of Ship-building. — Great Burthen of
the Chinefc Junhs. — Party felccied to^remain
in King George^ s Sound. — Experience the
'Tail of a Tufoon.-'Clnwge of the Monfoons.
''^Terrible Effects of Tujfoons in the Chinefe
Seas and horthcrn Pacific Ocean,

V r

)

/^Nthe 2d of Mauch, tlie longitude of Sunday 2
^■^ the flilp, by a mcdiutii of foveral dlf-
ftances of tlie fun and moon, was 136° 37'
Eail of Greenwich, and the latitude 2° 52'
North. At this time, the variation of the
compafs was 2^3o''Eaft, and the quickfilver

1 3 in

■I

• >

i' '

j3^ VOYAGES TO THE

1788. in the thermometer was at 86, and often at
March, po, lo that ue lutFcred very much from the
extremity of the heat.

The currents very feldom allowed us to
make our courfe better than by South Eaft ;
and hitherto there appeared no probability
of being able to weather New Guinea. We
had, indeed, conquered the North Cape ;
but there remained New Ireland, New Ha-
nover, and many different groupes and cluf-
ters of iflands, to the Noi thward of the Line,
and many degrees to the Eaftward of our
iituation. If we had purfund our courfe,
we muft have determined either to proceed
through Dampier's Straits, or thofe difco-
vered by Captain Carteret, which divide
New Britain from New Hanover ; but if
both thefe paflages were rejefted, there was
no alternative left but to ftand to the North-
ward and Weflward ; and to endeavour to
obtain as much of the former as would per-
mit us to tack and weather all. On a due
confideration ofourcircumftancesand fitua-
tion, the laft was preferred ; the (hip there-
fore was tacked, and flood to the North Weft,
with the wind at North Eaft,— a point the
jnoft diftrefling to us of the whole compafs.
• " . The

m-hAf^l*-

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i^c

The ftock of frelh provifions we received 1788.
at Samboingan was fufficient to laft us till March.
this time ; a circumftance which was at-
tended with the two- fold advantage of faving
the fait provifions, and conducing to the
health of the crew. A plentiful allowance
of water was continued, as the beft pre-
fervative againft the fcurvy ; and, if a di-
minution of this article fliould be requifite
in any part of the paflhge, we naturally de-
termined it fhould take place in the colder
latitudes, as, atprefent, an extreme andclofe
heat required every liquid aid to preferve
health, by fuftaining perfpiration.

On the 3d, the weather became extremely Monday 3
tempeftuous. We had continual fqualls from
the North Eaft, accompanied by deluges of
rain, which very frequently obliged us to
ihorten fail. Our courfe. was feldom better
than North Weft, though we fometimes
were enabled to make a tack or two to the
Eaft South Eaft and Eaft, when the fquall
was favourable. In this fituation, at noon,
we found the foremaft dangeroufly fprung
below the hounds ; every exertion therefore
was required to fecure it, as a very heavy fea
occafioned the fhip to pitch exceedingly.

1 4 The

-■■■^■■• Wl ^M

H>>^

J25 ' VOYAGES TO THE

1788. The top-maft and top-gallant-mafl: were

March, accordingly got down on deck, and the fails

unbent ; ftages were alio prepared round the

head of the mart, and the carpenters were

immediately employed in preparing fiflies.

This misfortune was accompanied with
fcveral others of a very mortifying nature.
The late bad weather and rolling of the fhip,
had deftroyed fome of the cattle and many
of the plants, in particular a fine orange-
tree, in full bloom; and half of the cinna-
. mon-trees which we had received at Sam-
boingan. There, however, yet remained
alive one bull and a cow, and one cow calf;
but the goats were all killed in one day by
a I'udden roll of the (hip. Of the plants we
ftill pofleflbd a lime and an orange- tree, in
full vigour, with fix cinnamon, and feveral
fmaller plants of various kinds.
Tuefday4 Qii the 4th, at iioon, the latitude, by
double altitudes, was 3° o' North ; and the
longitude, deduced from the lafl obferva-
tion pf the fun and moon, 137° 59' Eaft
,y of Greenwich. The wind blew from the

North Eaft, and we purfued our courfe to the
Eaft South Eaft. The weather was dark,

blowing

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^ | ^»

and tcmpcftuous^with heavy fqualls of wind 17^8.
and rain, which railed a confuted fca. "* March.

It was not till die s;ih that the mafl: was VvcdneiUay^
fccured, the fifhing of which was a hufinels
of no common ditficulty ; and, after all, we
were not without the moft anxious apprc-
henfions that it would not fland againft the
blowing and ftormy weather we expelled to
meet to the Northward of the tropical la-
titudes. '

Till the 1 2th wc continued to embrace any WedncfJayia
favourable moments of the wind. Whenever
it veered to the Eaft North Eaft, we tacked
and ftood to the Northward and Wcftward ;
and if it veered to the North, our courfe
was bent to the Eafrward. It feldom, how-
ever, permitted our ftanding long on either
tack ; for it generally blew very ftrong, with
heavy fqualls of rain. Our latitude, at
noon, was therefore but 3° 15' North, and
the longitude 144° 25' Eafl ; and on the
17th, we had advanced no further than 3° 25' ^°^'^^y '7
North, and 146° 30' Eaft. Such was our
tedious progrefs, whicli, togetiicr with a
continuance of the moft unpleafant and un-
wholefome weather, tended, more or Icfs,
to difpirit every one on board. But this was

' i

• rA

• /;

■'^t

Ij8 VOYAGES TO THE • '

1 788. '^ot all ; the continual damps, proceeding
March, from the frequent rains, and the people being,
from the fame circumflance, fo often, as
well as (o long in wet cloathing, together
with moid decks, awakened our apprehen-
iions to encrcafing fymptoms of the fcurvy.
In this fituation, we doubted very much
whether we (hould be able to weather the
iflands of New Ireland or New Hanover,
which bore off us not only Eaft South Eaft,
but many degrees to the Eaftward. We had
worked into our prefent pofition immediately
in the wind's eye.

Some of the difficulties which would pro-
bably attend the purfuing of our firft track,
have already been mentioned ; nor were we
to hope for a change from the fun's near
approach to the equinoctial. Tedious calms,
attended with heavy rains, were naturally
to be expe<5ted with a vertical fun. A fmall
portion of our voyage was yet performed, and
an immenfe track yet lay before us, to reach
to the 1 60th degree of longitude, when we
muft neceffarily crofs the Line.

According to the manner in which we had

proceeded, we fliould not, in all probability,

gain that objedt before the 10th of April ;—

^ % on

^»!»n -^ , ;

N01!^TH WEST COAST OP AMSRICA.

139

on the other hand, if we (leered to the North 1 788.
Weft, we had grounds tor expedting a change Maich.
of w'ifld in ovir favour, if not the monfoon,
by the i ft of April : — it was, therefore, again
refolv'xl to weather the Philippines, and
point our courfc fteadily to the North Weft.
With plenty of water, each man was al-
lowed half a pint of fpirits in the courfc of
the day, two-thirds of which were mixed
with water, and the remainder, at this time,
ferved in its raw ftate, which often proved a
falutary and cheering cordial in the rainy-
weather. The provifions were ordered in the
beft manner we could conceive to preferve
health, or, at leaft, to check the progrefs
of difeafe. — In the morning and evening tea
and fugar were ferved out to the crtw ; —
they had abundance of rice, peas, and bar-
ley, which, with flour and fruit, were ferved
with every poftible variety they would admit.
The pork and beef were always well fteeped,
and the conftant ufe of vinegar was called
in aid to contribute its ftiare towards cor-
recting the bad efFe(Sts of faked provifions.

We kept ftanding on to the North Weft, Sunday 34
and nothing material happened between the
laft and the prefent date. The weather was

now,

|.i

VOYAGES TO THE

140

1*788. iiow, indeed, become extremely pleafant,
. March, and the heavy fqualls of whid and rain which
had fo continually diftrefled us, were, for
the prefent, entirely diflipated. At noon, the
latitude was 21° 2' North, and the longi-
tude 139'^ 48' Eaft ; the variation of the
compafs 4^ 24' Eaft. During this run we
every day faw large flocks of birds, Ibme of
which we perceived to be of that fpecies
which never fly far from land.

We embraced the opportunity wjiich was
afforded us by the prefent favourable wea-
ther, to overhaul our fails, and prepare for
the tempeftuous weather we had every rea-
fon to expe<5l in our progrefs tq the North,
efpecially near Japan. Two compleat new
fuits of fails were prepared, new roped, lined
and middle ftitched ; all the old fails were,
at the fame time, put in a tolerable ftate.

The coopers, armourers, and other artifans
were always properly employed, either in
the immediate iervlce of the Ihip, or ac-
cording to their (kill, in preparing articles of
trade for the American market. — The Chi-
nefe armourers were very ingenious, and
worked with fuch a degree of facility that
we preferred them to thofe of Europe. The

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

141

inftruments they employ in their work are 1^88.
extremely fimple and they very (hortly ac- March.
complifli any defign that is placed before
them.

The carpenters were alfo at work in pre-
paring the moulds and model for a floop of
fifty tons that was defigned to be built im-
mediately on our arrival in King George's
Sound, as fuch a veffel would be of the
utmoft utility, not only in colle61:ing furs,
but in exploring the coaft.

Our head carpenter was a young man
of much ingenuity and profeflional Ikill, who
had ferved his time in London ; but the
Chinefe artificers in this branch had not the
leaft idea of our mode of naval archited:ure.
The veflels of their nation which navigate -
the China and adjacent feas, are of a con-
flrudtion peculiar to them. In veflels of a
thoufand tons burthen not a particle of iron
is ufed ; their very anchors are formed of
wood, and their enormous fails made of
matting. Yet thefe floating bodies of timber
are able to encounter any tempeftuous wea-
ther, hold a remarkable good wind, fail
well, and are worked with fuch facility and
care as to call forth the aftonifliment of

Eu-

■I %.h

Smf0W:

^f!.,*»»,T.

142

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. European fuilors. It was, therefore, a mat-

March. ter of Ibme difficulty to turn the profeflional

Ikill of our Chincfe carpenters to a mode of

. application fo entirely different from their

own habitual experience and pradlice.

A party was fele£led from the crew who
were to be left on fliore with the artificers,
to be employed in building the veffel. This
arrangement was made at fuch an early pe-
riod, in order that the people might be fully
prepared, immediately on our arrival in the
Sound, to begin their intended operations.
It is true that we had no one article in
readinefs for the purpofe; our timber was
ftanding in the forerts of America, the iron
work was, as yet, in rough bars on board,
and the cordage which was to be formed into
ropes, was yet a cable. Neverthelefs, en-
couraged by that fpirit of ardent hope which
animates man to oppofc the difficulties of
life, and invigorates life itfelf, we looked
forward with a kind of Cvirtain expectation
» that our purpofe would be effected, and that
ihfi veffel in contemplation would be actually
launched fomc time in the month of Oc-
tober. ,
■■"--. -••. ' ' : On

I.)

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,4-

On the I ft of April at noon, the lati- 1788.
tude was 22* 26' North, and the longitude April.
139° 38' Eaft. The weather feemed to have "* *^
acquired a fettled gloom, the clouds were
uncommonly black and heavy, and, through-
out the day, there was much thunder and
lightning. Numerous flocks of birds pafled
us from the windward, making loud noifes
in their paflage, as if apprehenfive of bad
weather. We alfo pafled fome rock- weed,
which was a fign of being at no very great
diftance from land.

On the 2d, the thunder and lightning Wednefdayi
cncreafed, without being accompanied with
any confiderable degree of wind. The fea,
neverthelefs, was in an unufual commotion,
and the fliip pitched fo heavy, that the
head-rails were carried away, and (bme other
injuries fuflrai'ied. — ^Towards noon it became
fqually, and we experienced feveral puffs of
wind from every point of the compafs, which,
with the encreafing darknefs, left us no
doubt of the approach of a very violent ftorm.
— ^The top-gallant yards and mafts were
got down on deck,— the main-fail furled, —
the top-fails clofe reefed, and the mizen ba-
lanced. All the fails were handed, except

5 the

I- n

■ >. i » ■

"< » id»

Mmmv'^ ' " ■

J 4 A "^ VOYAGES TO THE

1788. ^^iic main top-fall, which it was judged pru-
Ai'uiL. dent to keep abroad : in this iituation we
waited the coming of the tempeft ; nor did
it difappolnt our expedations. At two P. M.
the wind (hifted to the South, and began to
blow ftrong in fqualls: the fliip's head was
kept to the North Eaft ; it thundered and
lightned with great violence, and at half paft
three an heavy fquall came from the South
Eafl", inftantly followed by another from the
South Weft, both of which blew, for a fhort
time, with alternate and incredible fury;
the latter, however, prevailed, and continued
blowing f\"om the South Weft for near an
hour. Indeed, the meeting of thefe two
fqualls to leeward of us, was tremendous,
and the fea was carried to fucli an height as
to keep the horizon in a continual foam.
Happily fur us, we experienced only the
■ tail of this tuiibon or wliirlwind; but, as it
was, we expected every moment to have the
mafts ftiattered to pieces ; the main top-fail
having been fwept away, and frittered to
threads. ■ ■

The fea foon rofe to fuch an alarming
heinht, that it became neceftary to let the
fore-fail and feud before the ilorm, in order

i-C-ii^.

NORTH WESt COAST OF AMERICA.

«4j

ed pru-
tion we
nor did
oP.M.
egan to
ead was
red and
lalf paft
s South
"rem the
r a fhort
e fury;
)ntuiued
near an
lefe two
lendous,
eight as
d foam,
nly the
Lit, as it
ave the
top-fail
leied to

[arming

ifet the

n order

to preferve the (hip, which plowed her way 1788.
with furprifing fwiftnefs. It now blew from Apml.
the :^^outh Eail with a prodigious fea, before
which we kept (leering. Thus we were
fcudding along, when, to the leeward of us,
we perceived the water to rife many feet
above the level of the fea in circles, which
formed a beautiful but awful (ight ; fo that
we were obliged to perform the very un-
pleafant, and, indeed, rather.dangerous opera-
tion, of heaving to in fuch a high fea, to
avoid running into the dreadful vortex before
us, which continued, as it were, to fweep
the horizon till five o'clock ; when this
alarming whirlwind fub(ided, and fettled in
an heavy gale from the South Weft, be-
fore which we fcudded to the North Eaft.

To thofe who have read Kempfer's Hif-
tory of Japan, the violence of this tuflbon
will not be con(idered as a circumftance
that borders on phaenomenon, — fuch horrid
gufts of wind being at certain periods, accord-
ing to that writer, the common difturbers of
thofe feas : though we had feveral old and
experienced feamen in the (hip, who had
never before feen anything of this terrible
nature. We, however, confoled ourfelves

Vol. I. K with

.^6

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. with the belief that it was the critical mo-
April. ment when the Monfbons changed ; more
particularly as the ftorm from the South
Weft blew in fuch a fteady current.

Had this ftorm happened when it was dark,
it might have proved fatal ; as it was, we
were not a little furprifed that fome of the
mafts or yards were not carried away :
however, we were not fufficiently recovered
from our alarms, to venture upon fetting
much fail during the fucceeding night.

The period when the Monfoons change
in the China feas, and the Northern Pacific
Ocean, is a time that (hould be dreaded by
every fliip that navigates them. — Thefe
changes are generally in the months of April
and Odober, though they fometimes happen
not only much earlier, but alfo much later
in the feafbn. That which is confidered
as moft dangerous, is the variation from the
North Eaft to the South Weft, when ftorms
very generally trouble thofe feas. They
are remarkably violent on the coaft of Ja-
pan ; but when they a rife into a tufFoon,
no power or ftrength can withftand them.
Thf ruin they fometimes occafion is almoft
incredible ; — nor is it lefs diiiicult to con-
ceive

■''^^mmmmxmm^

deal mo-
ed; more
he South

It.

was dark,
t was, we
ne of the
ed away :
' recovered
,011 fetting
night.
>ns change
lern Pacific
dreaded by
1. — Thefe
ths of April
mes happen
much later

confidered
)n from the

hen ftorms
leas. They

oaft of Ja-
a tufFoon,

and them.

11 is almoft

lult to con-
ceive

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

ceive with what fury they blow from every
point of the compafs.

The Chinefe dread, beyond all meafure,
thefe violent hurricanes, which fometimes
fweep large villages and their inhabitants
to deftrudlion : at other times whole harvefts
arediflipated by their deftru£live breathy and
famine follows. — From a fimilar caufe, in
the year 1787, accompanied with exceffive
drought, a moll dreadful dearth prevailed
throughout the Southern provinces of Chi-
na, by which an incredible number of people
perilhed. It was no uncommon thing at
Canton to fee the famiflied wretch breathing
his laft ; while mothers thought it a duty
to deftroy their infant children, and the
' young to give the ftroke of fate to the aged,
to fave them from the agonies of fuch a
dilatory death.

147

CHAP.

1788.

April.

. «^^..^ •-»•'■

.-.».« IH:iyr-*'»~.fti i:

148

1788. v;

April.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. VIII.

- 1

l./r «

•1

Tliurfday 3

Landfeefiy but prevented from approaching it.
'^Difcovery of Iflands, which we named

' Grampus TJles. — Feel the Weather extremely

■ cold^ with the probable Reafon of it, — 2V«/«-
her of Birds feen. — Pafs by great ^antities
of Rock-weed. — Difcover aflupendous Rocky

'" which we named 'Lot'' s Wife, — T*he Rafter of
an Houfe^ and a Piece of Canoe feen floating
on the Water. — Tempefluous Weather. —

. Weather becomes flormy as the American Coajl

is approached.'^Crofs the Tracks of the Re-

folution and Difcovery.-^— Error of the Ship's

Reckoning, &c. — A Sea Parrot fen for the

■ firfi Time. — "Extraordinary Brightnefs in the

' Atmofphere, . and to what Caufe attributed. —
The Coaji of America feen. — Princefs Royal
fails out of King George's Sound. — Difirefs of
the Felice, ^c. — Anchor in Friendly CovCy
in King George's Sound.

ON the 3d of April, the weather became
moderate, and the ftorm fubfided ; but
about noon, the wind (hifted to North Weft,
and blew with extreme violence, accompa-

I nied

-t?i^-«T::.:

-^V,

''-■'^mtrmmm'i.r'imi^.'

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

149
1788.

April

nied by a ftrong nnd mountainous Tea. Our
courfc was to the Eaft by Nortli, under clofe
reefed top-falls and fore-fail. The latitude
was 24° 56' North, and the longitude i43°39'
Eaft of Greenwich.

Towards night it again moderated, when
we made fail ; — the wind now Ihifted to the
Eaft South Eaft, and we ftood to the North
Eaft till the 4th ; when the wind fixed itfelf FiUW 4
in the North Eaft quarter, and we according-
ly ftood to the North Weft, with fine and
moderate weather. ' ,' <

In this fituation, land was feen bearing
Eaft North Eaft, diftant eight leagues, im-
mediately in the wind's eye, which pre-
vented us from approaching it. Our latitude
at noon was 24° 44' North, and longitude,
deduced from our laft lunar obfervations,
145" 41' Eaft of Greenwich. We regretted
very much that we were not able to approach
this land, as we knew of none in this part
of the Northern Pacific Ocean. As we were
fteering to the North Weft, we fbon entirely
loftfightofit. ^

On the 5th, the wind ftiifted to the South Saturday s
Eaft, which enabled us to fteer to the North
Eo^t, when at two o'clock in the afternoon

K 3 we

«j^«;ii59«.*<«*«**""*'*» *>'♦*••■'**— ***^—^*V'*'''*' --^^ 4 .w.'v»5:i» J.'J»4.

I5«

VOYAGES TO THE

It s

, \

1788. we thought land was vifible to the Eaft
AmiL. South Eaft ; but the weather was fb extreme-
ly hazy, that it could not be afcertalned
whether it was land or a fog-bank. At
. three, however, land was feen in the North
Eaft right a-head, but the weather continued
to be fo thick and foggy, that the dire6lion
in which it extended could not be difcerned.
• At half paft four, we were abreaft of it, at
the diftance of five or fix miles, when it
appeared to be an ifland, but of no great
. extent. It now rained very hard, and the
atmofphere remained fo hazy, that our ob-
; ferv^tions of the land were rather imperfe£l.

It however appeared to be one of thofc bar-
ren ifles fo frequently found in thcfe feas. —
Its length might be fifteen or fix teen miles
- from North to South ; the fhore feemed to
be inacceffible to boats, from a great furf
beating againft the rocks, which terminated
abruptly in the fca. The interior parts of
tlie country appeared to be high, and a few
folitary trees vve'*e very fparingly fcattered
on their declivities. We failed along the
: Ihores of this ifland till fix o'clock, when
another ifland opened to our view, which
was feparated from the former by a channel

'' ' ■ ■■■ • ..- ■ •\H .

r ••••*^>=.a«- 1

;m^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

»5»
1788.

April.

of three or four lengues. It now Mew very
ftrong, with rain, and fo thick a fog, that
we could fee no diflance a-head.

Though the gale was favourable, yet,
from the appearance of the weather, it was
thought prudent to fliorten lail, and remain
under fuch as would enable us to haul to
the wind on either tack. The utmoft vi-
gilance and attention was employed to guard
as much as pofhble againd any danger, and
we failed, as ufual, all night with the courfes
hauled up in the brails. Thefe ifles, of
which we could not difcern the number,
were named Grampus Ifles, from feeing a
large grampus fpouting up water clofe to the
(hore, which is a very uncommon fight in
thofe ieas.

The night of the 5th was very ten^peftu-
ous, with conftant rain ; but to confole us
for thefe inconveniencies, we had a fair gale,
with which we made great way to the
North Eaft.

On the 6th, the wind fliifted to the North Sunday c
Weft, which brought us clear weather, and
blew a fteady gale. At noon the latitude was
27*30' North, and the longitude 148"* 37'

K4 Eaft.

4*\

J -J . VOYAGES TO THE

1788. Eaft. At this time the variation of the com-^
APMt. pafs was 3° 20' Eaft.

Our progrefs to the North now became
very rapid, and we experienced a very fud-
' den tranfition from heat to cold. Having
juft left a climate where the heats had been
intenfe and opprefiivc, it was very natural
the active operations of cold (hould be very
fenfibly felt by the whole crew. This cir-
cumftance, however, enabled us to reduce
the allowance of water from a gallon to five
pints per man, without any inconvenience
whatever arifing from fuch an alteration.
Tucfday8 The favourable gale at North Weft con-
tinued till the eighth at noon. The latitude
then was 28'' 58' North, and the longitude
154" 19' Eaft. — Our principal obje(St was to
get to the North as faft as poffible, in order
to benefit by the ftrong Wefterly winds, as
w?ll as to run down our longitude in an
high latitude. This North Weft gale con-
tinued to us the {harp piercing cold which
has been already mentioned.
■Wcdiiefday9 The next day we pafled by a confiderable
quantity of rock-weed, vvhich we imagined
to be but lately broken off, and for feveral
, days we had feen great numbers of birds.

• We

li <.

t4N

- l f» Wl ll<

NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.

\Vc were now confiderably to the North-
ward of the feveral fmall i (lands fcattered
cither within or about the tropic, in the
Northern Pacific Ocean. We could not,
therefore, form any probable conjecture from
whence this weed came, and whither the
birds retired at night, as they regularly left
us about funfet, and took their flight to the
Eaft.

About nine o'clock in the morning, a fail
was defcried from the mad-head, and, in
about half an hour a large (i»ip was feen from
the deck. She appeared to be under an ex-
traordinary croud of fail, and exhibited a
very fingular figure, for not one of us, even
with the afliftance of glafTes, could make out
which way ftie was (landing. The fight of
a (hip in thofe feas was fuch an unufual cir-
cumftance, that for fome time conjcfture
was at a lofs concerning it. At length, how-
ever, it was determined to be a galleon, bound
to China from New Spain, and by fome
cafualty driven thug far to the Northward ;
though the track of thofe (hips to Manilla,
is generally between the parallels of 13" and
f4® North latitude. In confequence of this
opinion^ feveral letters were written to in»

form

«53

1788.

'•■

-Tl^"*

if' !

j-4 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. form our friends in China of our fafety, and
April, the progrefs we buv! made in the voyage.
This extraordinary delufion, for it was no
more, continued till we were within two
leagues of the obje£l ; when, on viewing it
with aglafs, it was difcoveredto be an huge
rock (landing alone amid the waters. — ^The
firft among us who became fenfible of the
deception remained filent, and diverted them-
felves with the ftrange conjectures and hu-
morous obfervations of the failors, one of
whom was fo certain of its being a fliip,
that he was convinced he faw her colours.
Its appearance did, indeed, very ftrongly re-
femble a firft-rate man of war, under a croud
of fail; and fuch was its fhape, that, at a
certain diftance, it held forth to the eye the
form of every particular fail belonging to a
{hip. As we ranged up with this rock,
our furprife was proportionably augmented,
and the failors were more than difpofed to
believe that fome fupernatural power had
fuddenly transformed it into itsprefent fhape.
It obtained the name of Lot^s IVife, and is
one of the moft wonderful objefts, taken in
^11 its circumftafices, which 1 ever beheld.

Eiii«*«sGs^-;^ ;-.,,;;>&:'-.:::...- —

Amm**-

-■ ^-j^m*t

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

^SS

By noon we were a-breafl of it; when it 1788.
bore Eaft North Eaft four miles. The lati- Ar»ii..
tude was 29° 50' North, and the longitude
142° 23' Eaft of Greenwich. The waves
broke againft its rugged front with a fury
proportioned to the immenfe diftance they
had to roll before they were interrupted by
it. It rofe almoft perpendicular to the height,
according to the tables, of near three hundred
and fifty feet. A fmall black rock appeared
juft above the water, at about forty or fifty
yards from its Weftern edge. There was •:
a cavern on its South Eaftern fide, into
which the waters rolled with an awful and ,
tremendous noife. In regarding this ftupen-
dous rock, which ftood alone iij an immenfe
ocean, we could not but confider it as an
object which had been able to refift one of
thofe great convulfions of nature that change
the very form of thofe parts of the globe
which they are permitted to defolate. ■

This day, at noon, our latitude was ^^^ 18' Saturday la
North, and the longitude 161° Eaft, with a .
fteady gale from the Southward. We pafTed
by a great quantity of rock -weed, and faw
feveral large flocks of birds. In the evening,
a piece of timber, which appeared to be the -

\ rafter

I,?-

. ^^,^-y^ -r*

'''^-i^^^

I i

1^5 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. rafter of an houfe, and a piece of a canoe,
April, were feen floating upon the water, and fbon
after a fpar, that appeared to have been
newly cut. Thcfe were certain indications
of land, and occafioned, if poflible, an added
exertion of vigilance, as this part o^ the
Pacific Ocean is entirely unknown.

In the evening of this day the weather
became gloomy and overcaft, with every
ufual appearance of an approaching ftorm.
It blew ftrong throughout the night, and
Sunday 13 on the following day, at noon, the gale was
confiderably encreafed. The topgallant yards
and mafts were accordingly got down on
deck, and every other precaution taken to
provide againft the bad weather that threat-
ened us. Our apprehenfions were fhortly
realized; for about four o'clock, it blew
with fuch violence from the South, that we
were obliged to clofe reef the topfails, and
hand the mainfail. The wind was accom-
panied with fmall rain and thick weather.
We pafied by large quantities of weed ; and
the furface of the fea was covered with a
reddifli fpawn, that extended feveral miles.
It fbon after blew a perfedl ftorm ; the top-
fails w^re therefore imp;iediately handed,

and

U' "

mmm-*-'^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA^ ,^-

and we fcudded before it under a forefail, 1 788.
followed by a very heavy fea. — In this (itu- April.
ation, we were overtaken by a moft vio-
lent guft of wind, which made us appre-
henfive of fome material damage.— But very
fortunately the topfails had been handed in
time, andj the forefail being now reefed, we
continued to purfue our courfe. In this
heavy guft the wind fliifted to the Weft, and
raifed a very confufed fea, which broke on
our decks, and endangered the boats ; but,
in fhifting its point, the wind did not abate
its violence, nor did at all fubfide till the
14th, when the latitude was 36° 20' North, Monday 14

ud the longitude 167° Eaft,

It was determined to run down our lon-
gitude, as much as poffible, in the parallel
of 40° North ; and, as it was an unknown
track, we were not without the hope of
meeting with land, previous to our gaining
fight of the Continent of America, evident
figns of which had been obferved by Captain
Cook, as well as by us, in this latitude.

—Indeed, from the various circumftances
which have already been related, it is highly
probable that there is land in this part of the
Northern Pacific Ocean.

The

PTffl!

• i

l^g Voyages to the

1788. '^^6 tempefluous weather continued till
April, the 17th, when the wind veered to Eaft
^'' South Eaft, and blew with augmented vio-
lence. It moderated, however, at noon,
when the latitude was 38^ 51' North, and
the longitude 175** 10' Eaft. — Though ad-
vanced fb far North, we this day pafted a
large turtle fleeping on the water, which,
being awakened by the noife of the ihip,
immediately funk. Large flocks of birds
ftill continued to frequent us, and the rock-
weed became a common objed. — We now
experienced a great degree of cold, and the
morning and evening air, in particular, was
• ' » uncommonly fharp. The variation of the
compafs was 9** 2b' Eaft.
Wednrfdayaj Storm fucceeded ftorm till the 23d, when
the weather broke, and the wind moderated.
Thefe violent gales from the Northward and
Weft ward, not only brought with them a
biting cold, but alfo fleet and fnow, which
made coniiderable depredations on our ftock.
— We felt, however, the fatisfadtion of
having fair winds, principally from the South
Weft, from which quarter it blew very
hard ; but when it (hifted to the North Weft,
it encreafed beyond the power of defcrip-

tion.

woi-i* - '

■Ma

>->)»T> > n »M <l*i'

■■••WtTs

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

tion, with a great and mountainous fea.
We had fortunately embraced a favourable
opportunity of bending a new fuit of fails,
as the old ones muft have been (battered to
pieces by the violence of thefe florms. The
air was (harp, like that of bleak froft in
England, which more fenfibly afFedted us,
from our long continuance in tropical cli-
mates. Indeed we were not without occa-
fional (bowers of fnow and hail. Flocks of
birds, and large quantities of rock-weed,
continued to encourage an anxious expecta-
tion of feeing land.

On the 23CI, at noon, we paflTed the trunk
of a large tree. Our latitude was 41'' 35'
North, and the longitude was 189° 25' Eaft
of Greenwich. We now began to draw nigh
to the American (bore, which was a very de-
lirable circuniftance,as, among other prefling
reafons, the (hip was become extremely
light, from the great expenditure of provi-
lions and water. We had, indeed, been of
late extremely fortunate in our winds, but
much moi:e fo in the health of the crew,
who felt no other inconvenience but what
arofe from fo quick a tranfition from heat
to cold.

During

159

1788,

ArtiL.

H' ^

\ ^

.'• !■

I .'I
■1}

' t

i.
(1

U''

i^-^.

■

i I (•

J V

|..l

l€o

VOYAGES TO THfi

1788.

During the night it blew ftrong from the
Weft North Weft, with cold rain. On the
morning of the 24th the wind backed round
to the Southward and Eaftward, a certain
prelude of blowing weather ; and at noon it
blew fb hard as to oblige us to hand every
fail; and, till three in the afternoon, we
fufFered as fierce a ftorm as we ever remem-
bered to have feen, with a greater fea than
we had hitherto experienced. There was
alfo continual rain, and the cold did not
abate its feverity. The rigging fufFered
confiderably, and the fhip ftrained very much
in her rolling ; nor were we without our,
apprehenfions for the crippled foremaft. But,
amid this fevere and tempeftuous weather,
we enjoyed the confolatory refledlion that
we were every moment approaching nearer
to the deftined port.
Friday aj On the 25th the weather moderated, and
the wind veered to the Weft North Weft.
The latitude, at noon, was 43° North, and
the longitude by account, 1^6*^ 28'Eaft. It
blew a ftrong gale from the Weft South
Weft, with clear weather ; and we made
good our courfe to the Eaft North Eaft,
running feldom lefs than fifty leagues a

day,

• i to^mu.mm'MifHilf t, *j»W.

r^^'> | l ^ l |,HH Ilip P ll H I ^ |l '.i

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

l6l

day. From the 23(1 we had experienced a 1788.
continual fucceflion of gales. We were oc- April.
cafionally favoured with an hour or two of
clear weather, which was always fucceeded
by a return of Horm ; fo that we were never
able to fet more than a clofe- reefed topfail.
— Our run was no lefs than 230 leagues in '

this (hort period, Inf^eed the weather not
only continued to be cold and comfortlefs,
but was, at timed, fo very cloudy, that we
found no opportunity of taking any lunar
obfervations, in order to afcertain, with any
degree of accuracy, the run of the (hip.

The fame weather continued, and we pur-
fued our courfe without any novelty of fitua-
tion or circumftance, till the 30th, whenWednefdayjo
a fecond fpar pafled by, which from its ap-
pearance, and a notch that had been recently
cut in one end of it, could not have been
long in the water. — The birds had forfaken
us in the beginning of the late tempeftuous
weather, and we no longer faw the floating
rock-weed, which had, for fome time paft,
been a daily obje6l. ' ^

We had now twice croffed the tracks of Thurfdayi
the Refolution and the Difcovery in thefe
feas : that on their return from the Coaft

Vol. I. L , of

'I:

1%^

i6i

I* i

1788.

Mav.

VOYAGES TO THE

of Japan to China, and their later track
from Oonalafhka to the Sandwich Iflands.
Captain Cook had formed fome flight con-
jedlure of there being land between thefe
tracks and the coaft of America, and our
prefent courfe running dire£lly through that
part of the fea, it is moft probable that we
Ihould have difcovered it, if there had been
any fo contiguous to the American ftiore.

On our entrance into the month of May,
the weather became not only moderate but
pleafant :— the wind blew from the South,
and we purfued our courfe to the Eaftward.
The latitude, at noon, was 46° 5' North,
and the longitude, by a medium of feveral
diftances of the fun and moon, only 212° 5'
Eaft of Greenwich ; whereas, by account,
we were in 221° 41' Eafl. — This material
difference muil have arifen from the variety
of contrary currents we experienced in the
low latitudes, as well as thofe which may
be fuppofed to have fet us to the Weftward,
on our tacking to the Nortli. We had every
reafon, therefore, to conjecture that we muft
have approached the vicinity of Japan ; and
that we accomplifhed our paflage to the
North between the iflands of La drone and
^ .4 the

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i^j

the New Carolines. The variation of the j^gS.
compafs we now found to be 21° 18' Eafl:. may.

The wind continued to be favourable, Sunday 4
though it occafionally blew in ftrong fqualls.
The latitude, at noon, was 48° 10' North;
and the longitude, deduced from the laft
obfervations, 223° 22' Eaft. In the begin-
ning it became foggy, and blew from the
South South Weft in heavy fqualls, which
obliged us to heave to, for the firft time,
under the reefed forefail. However, as it
moderated in the morning, we bore up, and
purfued our courfe to the Eaftward.

We experienced a ftrong gale till the 7th, Wednefday 7
when, at noon, the latitude was 49° 28'
North, and the longitude, by a medium of
feveral diftances of the fun and moon, 228° 26' \.
Eaft.

On this day, at noon, the latitude was Thmfdayg
49® 28' North. In the evening we faw a fea-
parrot, and pafled a piece of drift-wood. We
had frequent fqualls of hail and fnow, but
the weather was more moderate than we had
known it for fome time.

On the loth, the latitude was 49° 3:
and the longitude, by the medium of feveral
fights, 230° 52' Eaft, and only 3° froni King

L 2 ' George's

Saturday lo

if^MMaii'""" ■ i<i«i

1^4

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. George's Sound. We kept running, during
Mav. the night, under a prefs of fail, diredlly in
for the American coaft. The whole at-
mofphere was in a (late of illumination,
which we attributed to the reflection of vaft
mountains of fnow on the continent: nor
were we miftaken ; for, on the morning of
sunJayii the iith of May, the. long- wifhed for land
of America appeared, bearing Eaft by South,
at the diftance of 13 leagues. It confifted
of a ridge of mountains, whofe fummits
were hid in the clouds. This land might be
feen thirty leagues in clear weather. As we
clofed in with it in the evening, the vapours
cleared away from the tops of the moun-
tains. At noon the latitude was, by double
altitudes, 49° 35' North, and King George's
Sound bore nearly Eaft of us. We kept
' • (landing in for the land, and when within
four leagues of it, the wind veered to the
South Eaft by Eaft, which obliged us to tack
and ftand to fea, the wind blowing almoft
immediately out of the Sound, which we
now plainly dilcerned.

A veflel was now feen linder the weather

land of the Sound, bearing down to us; but

as we were under a prefs of fail, and night

; . ' coming

l*^-*^'-- ^*ij5(

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

165

coming on, we could not fpeak to her, 1788,
without much inconvenience ; but we never- Mav.
thelefs knew her to be the Princefs Royal,
of London, on a trading voyage for the furs
of America.

The night of the 1 1 th was a dreadful one ;
fuch heavy gufts and fqualls of wind fuc-
ceeded each other, that we were prevented
from carrying any fail. Thefe fqualls brought
hail and fnow along wiih them ; and, to-
wards midnight, it blew a perfect ftorm.
When the morning broke, we had loft fight
of land, and the (hip had ftrained fo much,
that we had fix feet water in the hold, with
two pumps difabled ; nor did this gale mo-
derate till the 1 2th at noon, when the (hip
was wore, and we ftood in for the land, bail- \
ing the water from the hold, which was
rather encreafing on us. The latitude was
49° 26' North. We therefore kept ftanding
in for the land till {even o'clock in the
evening, when that comfortable obje6l: was
again very clearly difcerned : but we had
another mortification to fufFer, for we found
that the late ftorm had blown us to leeward
of the Sound. We were therefore under the
provoking neceflity of tacking once more,

^3 ' a»d

I 'Bill >?:

l66 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. and landing out to fea, with the wind at

^*^- North NorthWeft ; the Sound bearing North

Eaft, at the diftancc of feven leagues.

The night of the 1 2th was fo tempeftuous,
that we were obliged to lay to under the
reefed forefail, all the crew being employed
in bailing the water out of the hold; as it
• was not in our power to refit the pumps for

immediate fervice.
Tuefdayi3 Qn the morning of the 13th the wind
veered to the South by Eaft, blowing as hard
as ever, with heavy rain, when the (hip was
wore, and her head pointed in for the land.
About eight it moderated, when fail was
immediately made, and, by ten o'clock, we
happily anchored in Friendly Cove, in King
George's Sound, a-breaft: of the village of
Nootka, in four fathoms water, and within
an hundred yards of the fliore, after a paflage
of three months and twenty-three days from
China.— — The reader who has accompanied
us through our long, difficult, and haraffed
voyage, will eafily conceive the grateful joy
we experienced on our arrival in fafety at
the harbour which we had fought with fuch
continued toil, and through fuch various

dangers.

pw -4

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

It cannot be thought improper, ns I triirt:
it will not prove altogether ufelefs, to oflcr
fuch obfervations as occurred to me o\\ the
pafliige from China to the North Weft Coaft
of America.

It would not be prudent for (hips bound
to America, to purfue our route, if they are
not ready for fea by the middle of Novem -
her, or the loth of December at f.\rthefl.
The long and heavy delay we met will:, after
leaving Samboingan, is the beft proo( (fchc
difficulties we found in getting to inc Eall-
ward at this period of our voyage , when the
currents alfo run more rapid, ?.ud ?;hc ie:ifor\
is more tempcftuous, as we h:./.? rcafon to
believe, than in the months of Novcii.ber
and December. - -

It had been our intention, at one t'fpe, to
perform this voyage by failing round New
Holland, and ftretching fufficiently re du-
Eaft, to fetch the Sandwich Iflands previous
to our making the coall: of America; or we
had the choice of pufhing through Endea-
vour Straits, and performing the (raat p:int ;
but this latter courle was rejected on account
jof the dangerous archipel?,gf'>< of iOands Icat-
tered to the Eaftward cf tiiofc (traits; and

1* 4 the

167

1788,

May.

-ll^iW-^

!^*'S3i««*sa*.

i68

1788.

May.

VOYAGES TO THE

the former was abandoned from the circuity
of its navigation, which would demand a
much longer time than we could fpare : it
was accordingly conjedured, flint ifapaf-
fage was attempted through the Sooloo Ar-
chipelago, then ilretching to the Eaftward,
to weather New Guinea, New Ireland, and
New Hanover, — and again tacking to the
Northward, to obtain the Wcfterly winds,
that we fhould have a quick and eafy paffage
opened to America.

The event proved that we had judged right-
ly in adopting the laft; — but, in my opinion,
a ftill eafier and much better pafl'age is now
opened to America; and it is fubmitted whe-
ther, in future, it would not be preferable
for ihipj bound there, to efFe£t their way
by the paffage between Luconia and For-
mofa. Tills opinion is not the fanciful re-
fult of vague conjefture, but has, as I con-
ceive, fomewhat of an experimental founda-
tion on the following circumftances : —

On our arrival with the Felice in China,
in the autumn of 1788, the agent of the
merchants in England, and the agent of
the merchants in India, formed an union
of interefts, and affociated themfelves under

a joint

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

[69

a joint flock, to carry on the fur trade of 1788.
America. They accordingly equipped a (hip May.
called the Argonaut, under the diredlion of
Mr. Colnet, a lieutenant in his Majefty's
navy, and who had commanded in the years
1787 and 1788, the (hip Prince of Wales of
London, belonging to the merchants trading
to America. This (hip had performed her
voyage to the coaft, and returned to China
with a valuable cargo of furs in 1788, and
from thence to England, laden with teas on
account of the Eaft India Company. Mr.
Colnet quitted the Prince of Wales in
China, to command the Argonaut, and take
charge of the afTociated merchants pro-
perty on the coaft of America. Of his nau-
tical abilities I (hall only obferve, that they t
are fuch as to receive no addition to their
reputation from any teftimony of mine :
he accordingly prepared the Argonaut for
fea, and the Princefs Royal of London, a
veflTel belonging to the fame commercial fo-
ciety.

The(e .(hips were not ready for fea till
the 1 7th- of April, 1789; when, on com-
paring the tracks of the Felice and the Iphi-
genia, and the time they met theMonfoon

, ■

-•••»*

170

VOYAGES TO THE

■;<! .

I f '

1788. or Wefterly winds in the Northern Pacific
M4V. Ocean, it was thought that the pafTage to
America might be efFeded between Lu-
conia and Formofa, with greater eafe and
expedition than by purfuing the track by
Magindanao.

The Princefs Royal therefore failed in
February, and did not reach the coaft of
America in lefs than lixteen weeks : but
the tardinefs of her voyage arofe from her
being a very heavy failer, and not copper-
bottomed. — Whereas the Argonaut, who
was both (heathed with copper and a prime
failer, left China the 26th of April, 1789,
and arrived in King George's Sound the 3d
of July following ; which was a paflage that
exceeded our moft fanguine expectations.

The future navigator from China to Ame-
rica, is here prefented with four different
tracks of that voyage. But if it Ihould be
my lot to be again engaged in it, I (hould
leave China early in the month of March,
and endeavour to make a paflage between
• Luconia and Formofa, in order to gain the
Pacific Ocean, where, at that feafon, variable
winds might be expe<Sted to the Northward
of 20°; and when the violence of the North

Eafl

k:i<>-.iiJ* ;'J«V>— ^'^ -

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

^71

Eaft Monfoon would alfo be much abated in 1788^
the China feas. Indeed, in the month of May.
April, there would be almoft a certainty of
meeting the South Weft Mcnfoon or Wef-
terly winds in the latitud? of 25° or 30'
North, which prevail there, and blew us
home to the American fhore.

On leaving Canton, great care ihould be
taken to work fome diftance up the coaft of
China, between the Lema Ifles, and as high
as Pedro Blanco, or the White Rock, before
the China fea is crofled for Formofa : but no .' '.
paflage, I think, fhould be attempted be-
tween the rocks of Ville Rete and the South
end of Formofa, except during the day, in
clear weather, and with the appearance of
a free channel. ^

CHAP.

.^ifr>-''r^»»-'r-

17*
1788.

May.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. IX.

(■3

r^i-

75^^ commoJious Situation of Friendly Cove^ in

King Georgt*s Sound. - Great lumbers of

the Natives ajfemble to view the Sbtp,— l'he

Joy of Comehela on his Arrival^ &c — Han-

, napa, a Chief comes on board. — Comehla

, prepares to go on Shor,.-~His Drefs, tic. —

; Employments of the Crew. — ^he jirrival of

Maquillaj Chief of King George's Sound,

with Callicum, a Perfon the next in Rank to

him. — j^ DefcrJption of their Drejfes, and

the Ceremonies they pradiifed on feeing the

Ship* — Leave obtained to build an Houfe

and FeJfeL — Callicum attaches hinfelfto the

Ship and is appointed Protestor of the Party

on Shore, by Maquilla.'^An H^jufe built. —

Keel of a Fejfel laid. — Some Account cf the

Murder cf Callicum by the Spaniards, in the

following Year.

TH E (hip bad been moored but a very
(bort time, when it began to blow a
tempeftuous gale of wind, with very heavy
rain ; the commodious fituation, therefore,

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

of Friendly Cove, made us truly fenfible
of our good fortune, in being thus fecurely
placed in a prbtedling haven, where neither
Aorm or tempeft could alarm our fears or
trouble our rcpofe.

Our earlieft attention was invited to a
multitude of the natives, affembled on the
banks in front of the village, in order to
take a view of the (hip. Comekela, who
feveral days had been in a ftate of the moft
anxious impatience, now enjoyed the inex-
preffible delight of once more beholding his
native land, to which he returned with the
'confcious pride of knowledge acquired by
his voyage, and in the poffeffion of thofe ar-
ticles of utility or decoration, which would
create the wonder, and encreafe the refpeft
of his nation. His joy, however, received
no inconiiderable interruption from the ab-
fence of his brother Maquilla, the chief
of King George*s Sound, and his relation
Callicum, who flood next in rank to the
fovereign. Thefe chiefs were, at this time,
on a vifit of ceremony to Wicananifli, a
powerful prince of a tribe to the Southward.
Of this circumftance we were informed by
Hannapa, who in the abfence of the two

, fuperior

173

1788.

May.

I \

•lUlH ■ iMff" -^

^jj^MWW.*!^^

«74

V OY AGES TO THE

f,'

H'-

1788. fuperior chiefs was left in power at Nootka,
May, and who was come on board to pay us a
vifit.

At this time Comekela was dreffed in a
fcarlet regimental coat, decorated with brafs
buttons, — a military hat fet off with a flaunt-
ing cockade, decent linens, and other ap-
pendages of European drefs, which was far
* , more than fufficient to excite the extreme
, admiration of his countrymen. Nor was
Hannapa infenlible to the appearance of
* ■ Comekela; for he regarded him not only
with the moll prying attention, but alfo
with ftriking expreflions of that envy which
is a very prevalent paflion among the na-
tives of this part of America.

In a (hort time the (hip was furrounded
with a great number of canoes, which were
filled with men, women and children ; they
' brought alfo confiderable fupplies of fifh,

and we did not hefitate a moment to pur*
chafe an article fo very acceptable to people
juft arrived from a long and toilfome voyage*
In the evening the weather cleared up, and
Comekela prepared to go on fhore. The
news of his intention was foon communi-
cated to the village, which immediately

poured

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

^75

poured forth all its inhabitants to welcome 1788.
him to his native home. May.

Comekela had now arrayed himfelf in all
his glory. His fcarlet coat was decorated
with fuch quantities of brafs buttons and
copper additions of one kind or other, as
could not fail of procuring him the moft
profound refpe<3: from his countrymen, and
render him an obje£l of the firft delire among
the Nootka damfels. At leaft half a fheet
of copper formed his breaft-plate ; from his
ears copper ornaments were fufpended, and
he contrived to hang from his hair, which
was drefled en queue, fo many handles of cop-
per faucepans, that his head was kept back
by the weight of them, in fuch a ftifFand
upright pofition, as very much to heighten
the (ingularity of his appearance. For va-
rious articles of his prefent pride Comekela
had been in a ftate of continual hoftility
with the cook, from whom he had con-
trived to purloin them ; but their laft and
principal ftruggle was for an enormous fpit,
which the American had feized as a fpear, to
fwell the circumftance of that magnificence
with which he was on the moment of
dazzling the eyes of his countrymen ; — and

fituated

. J

176

1788.

May.

^}^

e^'^l

VOYAGES TO THE

fituated as we were, this important article of
culinary fervice could not be denied him. In
fuch a (late of accoutrement, and feeling as
much delight as ever fed the pride of the
mofl fplendid thrones of Europe or the Bad,
we fet out with him for the (hore, when a
general fhout and cry from the village af-
fured him of the univerfal joy which was
felt on his return.

The whole body of inhabitants moved
towards the beach, and with a mod: unplea-
fant howl, welcomed him on (hore. At the
head of them appeared his aunt, an old
woman of about eighty years of age, and,
from her appearance, might have been fup-
pofed to have lived in a continual flate of
filth and dirtinefs from her birth to the mo-
ment in which we beheld fuch a difgufling
obje£t. She embraced her nephew with
great afFeftion, and fhed the fcalding rheum
of her eyes on the cheek of Comekela.

After the firft ceremonies of welcome were
over, and the firft gaze of admiration fatis-
fied, the whole company proceeded to the
king's houfe, into which perfons of rank
were alone permitted to enter, and where a
magnificent feaft of whale blubber and oil

5 was

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

was prepared : the whole company fat down
with an appetite well fuited to the luxuries
of the banquet: even the little children
drank the oil with all the appearance of
extreme gratification ; but Comekela*s taftc
feemed to have been in fome degree vitiated
by the Indian and European cookery, and
he did not enjoy his native delicacies with
the fame voracious gluttony as if his ftomach
had never known the variety of other food
than that of Nootka. The evening was paf-
fed in great rejoicing ; their fongs and
dancing continued during the greateft part
of the night. We returned on board early
in the evening; but we heard for a long
time after the found of their ftftivity.

Nootka is lituated on a rifing bank, which
fronts the fea, and is backed and Ikirted
with woods*. In Fricndlv Cove the houfes
are large, and in the common fafhion of the
country. Each of thefe manfions accom-
modates feveral families, and is divided into
partitions, in the manner of an Englifh

*7?

1788.

Mav.

•V

, I

* A particular account of the village or town of
Nootka, is referved for that part of this volume which
will treat at large of the commerce, geography, &c. of
the North Weft Coaft of An Ciica.

Vol.1. : M /' flable,

«!'^^wi»r^

[(I

t'i

J -3 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. ftabic, in which all kinds of dirt, mixed
May. witli blubber, oil and fifh, are difcovered by
more fenfes than, one, to form a mafs of
undcfirable filthinefs.
Wednefdayi4 On thc 14th, the Weather was fuffici-
ently fair to admit of our difpatching a
party on jfhore to ere£l a tent for the wooders
• and watercrs, as well as one for the fail-

makers. For thispurpofe a fpot WAS chofen
at a fmall diftance from the village, and
contiguous to a rivulet. The reft of the
crew were employed in unreefing the run-
ning rigging, unbending the fails, and the
other neceflary duties of the {hip.
Friday 16 Qi^ ^]^q 1 6th, a number of war canoes en- "
tered the cove, with Maquilla and Callicum ;
they moved with great parade round the
fhip, finging at the fame time a fong of a
pleafing though fonorous melody :— there
Were twelve of thefe canoes, each of which
contained about eighteen men, the greater
part of whom were cloathed in drefles of
the moft beautiful Ikins of the lea otter,
wliich covered them from their necks to their
. ancles. Thdr iiair was powdered with the
white down of birds, and their faces be-
daubed with red and black ochre, in the
: ' form

, I

rt, mixed
overed by
a mafs of

as fuffici-
(atching a
be wooders
r the fail-
ivas chofen
ilhge, and
reft of the
ig the run-
Is, and the

r canoes en-
. CaUicum ;
round the
fong of a
dy -.—there
h of which
he greater
drefles of
fea otter,
cks to their
id with the
faces be-
^re, in the
form

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

form of a (hark's jaw, and a kind of fpiral
line, which rendered their appearance ex-
tremely favage. In moft of thcfe bouts there
were eight rowers on a ilde, and a fiiiglc
man fat in the bow. The chief occupied a
place in the middle, and was alfo diflln-
guifhed by an high cap, pointed at t!ie crown,
and ornamented at top with a fmall tuft of
feathers. " ' '

We liftened to their fong with an equal
degree of furprife and pleafure. It was, in-
deed, impolTible for any ear fiifceptible of
delight from mufical founds, or any mind
that was not infcnfible to the power of
melody, to remain unmoved by this fol jmn,
unexpe^led concert. The chorus was in uni-
fon, and ftridly corrctfl as to time and tone ;
nor did a diflbnant note efcape them. —
Sometimes they would make a fudden tran-
{ition from the high to the low tones, with
fuch melancholy turns in their variations,
that we could not reconcile to ourfclves the
manner in which they acquired or contrived
this more than untaught melody of nature.
— There was alfo fomething for the eye as
well as the ear ; and the action which ac-
companied their voices, added very much to

M 2 the

^79

1788.

May.

■ -^^?i

i8o

VOYAGES TO THE

I- 1 1? , '

1788. the imprefTion which the chaunthig m:ide
May. upon us all. Every one beat time with un-
deviating regularity, againft the gunwale of
the boat, with their paddles ; and at the end
of every verfe or (lanza, tlicy pointed with
extended arms to the North and the South,
gradually finking their voices in fuch a fo-
lemn manner, as to produce an cfFedt not
often attained by the orcheftras in our quar-
ts r of the globe.

They paddled round our (hip twice in
this manner, uniformly rifing up when they
came to the ftern, and calling out the word
loacujl}^ wacujh, or friends. They then
brought their canoes along-fide, when Ma-
quilla and Callicum came on board. The
former appeared to be about thirty years, of
a middle fize, but extremely well made, and
poflclling a countenance that was formed to
intereft all who liiw him. The latter feemed
to be ten years older, of an athletic make,
and a fine open arrangement of features, that
united regard and confidence. The inferior
people were proper and very perfonable men.
A feal-lkin filled with oil was immediately
handed on board, of which the chiefs took
a fmall quantity, and then ordered it to be

I returned

0* ' U£s ?*'**'***^^''^**^yfii

■ ■f tWii* " *'' "** ' "y « 'SWn tl>aHan

" * -- r^-^-'-ii i i"" T

■,..Ki .a •

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA*

1 1

returned to the people in the canoes, who 1788.
foon emptied the vcflel of this luxurious ^^^^'
liquor. - ,

A prefent, confiding of copper, iron, and
other gratifying a»-ticles, was made to Ma-
quilla and Callicum, who, on receiving it,
took off their fea-otter garments, threw
them, in the mofl: graceful manner, at
our feet, and remained in the unattired garb
of nature on the deck. — They were each
of them in return prefented with a blanket,
when, with every mark of the higheft latis-
fa<5lion, they defcended into their canoes,
which were paddled haftily to the fhore.

The manner in which thefe people give
and receive prefents is, we believe, pecu-
liar to themfclvcs. However coftly the gift ':
may be in their own eyes, tht^y wifli to take
away all idea of conferring any obligation
on the receiver of it. We have feen two
chiefs meet on a vlfit of ceremony provided
with prefents of the richeft furs, which they
flung before each other with an air that ,
marked the moft generous friendfliip, and
rivalled that amiable interchange of kiudnefs
which diftinguifhes the more poliflied na-
tions of the world.

( M ^ - . From

183

1788.

May.
Saturday 35

'(■:

■ ,.. • VOYAGES TOTHE

From the time of our arrival at Nootka
to the 25th, we had much bad weather; but
that circumftaiice, however unpleafant/did
not prevent us from engaging in the different
operations we had in view. Maquilla had
not only mofl readily confented to grant us
a jpot of ground in his territory, whereon
an houfe might be built for the accommo-
dation of the people we intended to leave
there, but had promifed usalfo his affiftance
in forwarding our works, and his protcdion
of the party who were deftined to remain
at Nootka during our abfence. In return
for this kindnefs, and to enfure a conti-
nuance of it, the chief was prefented with a
pair of piflols, which he had regarded with
an eye of folicitation ever fiiice our arrival.
Callicum, who fecmed to have formed a
moft affcdionatc attachment to us, was alfo
gratified, as well as the ladies of his family,
with fu'.tablc prefents: it indeed became our
more immediate attention to confirm his re-
gard, as he had been appointed by Maquilla
tu be our particular gu.ndian and protuflor,
and had the moft peremptory injunctions to
prevent the natives from making any de-
predations on us.

But

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

183

1788,

Ma V,

But however difpofed we might be to
rely on the friendlhip of thefe chi jts, we
thought it prudent, during the negotiation
between us, to inform them of cur power,
by explaining the force we pofl'eflld, and
the mode of applying it, in cafe they (hould
at any time change their prefent difpofitions
towards us. We wifljed to operate on their
fears as well as their gratitude, in order to
fecure, with greater certainty, the objufl of
our voyage.

Great advances were made in buildingWednefdaj»8
the houfe, which on the iSth wasco*nplctely
finilhed. In the very expeditious accomplifli-
ment of this importaiU work, the natives
afforded us all the afliflance in their power,
not only by bringing the timber from the [
woods, but by readily engaging in any and
every fervice that was required of them.
When the bell rung for our people to leave
off work in the evening, the ivitivc labourers
were always aifembled to receive their daily
jpay, which was diftribnted in certain pro-
portions of beads or iron. Such a proceeding
on our part, won fo much upon their regard
and confidence, that we could not find em-

M 4 . ployment

f 1

^ ■-^' .W'WH^w*

1 84

.^?

VOYAGES TO THE

^tl

M.A

1788. p^oyment for the numbers that continually
May, fbiicited to engage in our fcrvice. . ., ,,4
The houfe was fufficiently fpacious to
conti^iti all the party intended to be left in
the Sound. — On the ground-lloor there w?is
ample room for the coopers, fail-makers, and
other artisans to work in bad weather : a
large room was alfo fet apart for the ftores
and provifions, and the armourer's fhop was
attached to one end of the building and coni-
inunicated with it. The upper-ftoiy wag
divided luro an eating-room and chambers
for the party. Oii the whole, our houfe,
though it was not built to latlsfy a lover of
architeclural beauty, was admirably well cal-:
culated for the purpofe to which it was
deftined, and appeared to be a ilruifVure of
uncommon magnificence to the natives of
King George's Sound,

A Urong breaft-work was thrown up
round the houfe, enclofing a confiderable
area of ground, which, with one piece of
cannon, placed in fuch a mannpr as to coiji-
mand the cove and village of Nootka, for-
med a fortification fuflicient to fecure the
party from any Intrufion. Without this
Jjreafl-work, was laid the keel of a veflel of

*-i

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.^ yZ%

4.0 or 50 tons, which was now to be built 1788.
agreeable to our former determinations. J^^e.

By the 5th of June, our operations were Thurfday^
confiderably advanced ; the (hips had been
caulked, the rigging repaired, and the fails
were overhauled ; — ftone ballaft had been
received on board, as we found the danger of
fand ballaft, on account of its choaking the
pumps, and the (hip was wooded, watered,
and got ready forfea. All this various and
necelfary bufinefs was done, though the wea-
ther had been very indifferent from the time
of our arrival, having had almoft continual
heavy rains, with foutherly winds. Thefe
rains had entirely wa(heQ t!ie fnow from
off the ground, and except on the fummlts
of the mountains and the higher hills, fmall
patches of it only were now to be feen ; but
vegf tation was ftill very backward, and
changed but by a very gentle gradation the
dreary appearance of the country on our
arrival.

The party deftined to remain on (hore
were bufily employed in their various occu-
pations : fome were engaged in bringing
the timber from the woods at a great dif-
fance, and through a thick foreft of very

difficult

■ \

' !

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. difficult paflage ; others in fawingand fha-
juNE. ping it for the feveral purpofes to which it
was to be applied, while the armourers were
bufy in making bolts, nails, &c. ready for
ufe, or forging iron hito the necefliiry arti-
cles of trade ; fo that, by proceeding on ft
lyftem of order and regularity, we had, in
a very little time, formed our new dock-
yard, in which the carpenters had already
laid the keel, and railed, bolted and fixed
the flern and ftern- port ; fo that expedtation
had but a little while to look forward, till
it would be gratified in feeing this veflll fit
for the fervice to which it was deftined.
If hlflories of navlj^ation were Written

merely to amufc the leifure hours of the
rich, or to fitlsfy the eager enquiries of
the philofopiier, much of the minute parts
of fuch a' work as th's would be necefiarily
omitted, as unentcrtaining to the one, or
beneath the notice of the other ; but nar-
ratives of voyages are applicable to other
purpofcs; and, if they fliould not prove in-
ftru^live to future navigators — If they (hould
not tend to aid and facilitate the progrefs of
commercial enterprlze, the difficulties and
dangers of fuch voyages mufl have been

en-

• NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

encountered in vain, and the time employed
in writing an account of them be added to
the wafte of life. .

The good harmony and friendly inter-
courfe which fubfifted bstwcen us and the
natives, will, we truft, be confidered as a
proof that our condu^fl was regulated by
the principles of humane policy ; while the
generous and hofpitable demeanour of our
faithful allies will convey a favourable idea
of iheir character, when treated with that
kindnefs which unenlightened nature de-
mands, and is the true object of commer-
cial policy to employ.

The various offices of perfonal attach-
ment which we received from many indivi-
duals of thefe people, were fufficient to
convince us that gratitude is a virtue well
known on this diftant (here, — and that a
noble fenfibility to offices of kindnefs was
to be found among the woods of Nootka.
Callicum poflblTed a delicacy of mind and
conduct which would have tlone honour to
the moft improved ftate of our civilization ;
a thouiand inftances of regard and affedlion
towards us miglit be related of this amiable
man, who is now no more; and the only
' . ^ return

187

1788.

June.

\' \

f ■

. ♦

,■) 'J

.^i

»!

)

i83

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. return that we can make for his friendfliip
JuNi. is to record it, with every exprdlion of hor-
ror and deteftation of that inhuman and
wanton fpirit of murder, which deprived his
country of its brighteft ornament, the fu-
ture navigator of a prote6ling friend,— and
drove an unoffending and ufeful people from
their native home, to find a new habitation
in the diflant defart*. .

• This amiable chief was fliot through the body
in the monih of June, 1789, by an officer on board one
of the (hips of Don Jofcph Stephen Martinez. The
following particulars we received from the mafter of the
North Weft America, a young gentleman of the moft:
correct veracity, who was huiiielf a mournful witnefs
of the inhuman aft : —

Callicum, his wife and child, came in a fmall canoe,
with a prefent of fi(h, along-fide the PrinccfTa, the com-
modore's fhip ; and, the filh being taken from him
in a rough and unwelcome manner, before he could
prefent it to the commander, the chief was fo incenfed
at this behaviour, that he immediately left the Ibip, ex-
claiming as he departed, pe/hae, fe/hac f the meaning of
which is, bad, bad 1 — This conduft was confidered as
fo ofFcnfive, that he was immediately Ihot from the
quaiter-deck, by a ball, through the heart. The body
on receiving the ball, fprung over the lide of the canoe
and immediately funk. The wife was taken with her
child, in a ftate of ftupefa£tion to the Ihov^: by fome of
her friends, who were witneflcs of this inhuman ca-

taftrophe.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

taftrophc. Shortly after, however, the father of Cal-
licum ventured on board the Spanilh Ihip, to beg per-
luifuoii to creep for the body beneath the water, when
this fad requeft of parental forrow was refufed, till the
poor afHidcd favage had coilcfted a fufficient number
oflkins among his neighbours to purchafc, of chrif-
tians, the privilege of giving fepulture to a fon whom
they had murdered. The body was foon found, and
followed to its place of interment by the lamenting
widow, attended by all the inhabitants of the Sound,
who expreffed the keeneft forrows for a chief whom
they loved, and to whofe virtues it becomes our duty to
give the grateful teftimony of merited affection.

189

1788.
June.

CHAP.

^»N.

1788.

June.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. X,

ii- t(ij

i^i

Methods employed by the Natives to advance
the Price of Sea Otters Skins. — Their Supe-
riority in arranging their Bargains between
us. — Condudl oj Comekela, — Made a Chief
through our Influence. ^-His Marriage. — The.
Magnificence of the Entertaimnent on the Oc-
cafion. — Maquilla and his Chief affedt our
Drefs and Manners. — Valuable Prcfent of
Maquilla. — AGrindJlone folen. — j^n human
Hand offered for Sale. — Narrow Efcape oj
the Natives on the Occafion. — Mc Line holy Lofs
of Part of the Crew of the Imperial Eagle ^ in
1787. — St fpicion that Maquilla is a Canni-
bal. — Extraordinary Pillow of Callicum. —
The Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to
a fmall Difiancc. — The Reafons and Facility
of their Removal. — A young Otter brought
for Sale,

T N the Interval between our arrival and the
fifth of June, a very briik trade had been
carried on for furs, and we had procured
tipwards of one hundred and forty fea otter
jfkuis. On our firft arrival we had ftipulated

a cer-

■■\

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

a certain price for every difterent kind of
fur, according to its value ; but in the whole
bufiaefs of this trafHc they availed themfelves
of every advantage ; and it was our inte-
reft, from the views of future benefit, to
fubmit to any deviation they attempted to
make from their original agreement.

After fome little time they changed the
whole order of their traffic with us ; and
inftead of common barter, according to the
diftln£t value of the articles exchanged, the
whole of our mercantile dealings was. car-
ried on by making reciprocal pre fen ts ; the
ceremony of which was accompanied with
the utmoft difplay of T^Sit pride and hofpi-
tality.— The particulars of thefe cuftoms are
related at large in that part of the work
which is more particularly affigned to com-
mercial information.

Whenever Maquilla or Callicum tliought
proper to make us a prefent, one of their
perfonal attendants was fent to requeft the
company of the I'/ghee, or Captain, on fliore,
who always accepted the invitation, charged
with fuch articles as were intended to be
prefented in return. On our arrival at the
habitation of the chiefs, where a great num-
ber

1788.

June.

}

;, ',1

192

f;/.i

1788.

June.

VOYAGES TO T HE

ber of fpedlators attended to fee the cere-
mony, the fea otter (kins were produced
with great ihoutings and geftures of exul-
tation, and then laid at our feet. The filence
of expectation then fucceeded among them,
and their mod eager attention was employed
on the returns we (hould make ; nor can it
be fuppofed, that, confidering our credit as
Britilh merchants, we were deficient in af-
fording the expelled fatisfa(flion: — hefides,
it had been artfully enough hinted by our
Nootka friends, that as foon as their prefent
ftock of (kins was exhaufted, they (hould
go upon an expedition to procure more ; and
this was one clrcum(tance, among others,
which naturally tended to quicken the fpirit
of commerce between us.

Since the firft difcovery of this Sound by
Captain Cook, feveral (hips had arrived there
for the purpofe of trading with the natives,
who had acquired a greater degree of civili-
zation from fuch a communication than we
expedled to have found amongft them; — but
it was a matter of fome furprize to us, that
they appeared, at leaft to our obfervaiion,
totally deftitute of European articles : for,
of all the iron, copper, beads, &c. which

they

1 1

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

193

they muft have received in return for their 1788.
furs, not a particle of them was now to be June.
{een ; — nor is it eafy to conje<Slure in what
manner they had contrived, in fo fhort a
time, to diiiipate their treafures.

The fiLklenefs that they at times difcovered
in their traffic, was occaiionally very trouble-
fome. At one time copper was their fa-
vourite obje(5l ; at another, iron was the only
commodity in eftimation among them ; beads
would alfo have their turn of preference.
But this helitation in their choice was gene-
rally determined by a medley of them all.

Comekela was, at firft, very adivc hi for-
warding our commercial arrangement ; but
he had become very deficient in his native
tongue, and he now fpoke fuch a jargon of
the Chinefe, Englifh, and Nootkan lan-
guages, as to be by no means a ready in-
terpreter between us and the natives ; — be-
fides, in returning to the manners of his
country, he began to prefer the interefts of
his countrymen, and, amidft the renewed
luxuries of whale flelh, blubber and oil, to
forget the very great kindnefles we had be-
ftowed upon him. — But as he had, through
our influence, been raifed into a fituation of

Vol. I. N truft

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0 ^^ lii

pL L"" "sa

Kim

■

1.6

RioiDgFaphic
.Sciences
Carporalion

23 WBT MAIN STRUT

WiBSTiR,N.Y. MSM

(716) •72-4503

's>-

^^-

-^.\ ^<

194

1788.
June.

VOYAGES TO Tttfi

truH: and honour, it was not our intereft to
unfold our fufpicions of his duplicity and
ingratitude towards us. Maquilla had com-
mitted to iiim the care of his moft valuable
treafures, among which was a brafs mortar,
left by Captain Cook, which was held in
the higheft degree of cflimation by the Noot-
ka Chief. This piece of culinary furniture
Was elevated from a flate of fervile ufe, to
become a fymbol of royal magnificence. It
was kept extremely bright, and, in vifits,
or meetings of ceremony, it was borne be-
fore Maqulllii, to aid the fplendor of the re-
gal charadcr. — It was therefore an objedt
rather to recall his former difpofitions to-
wards us, by the continuance of our friend-
Ihip, than tojuftify his deviation from that
regard which it was his duty to manifefl: in
our favour. We tlierefore exerted our in-
fluence with his brother Maquilla, to elevate
him at once to the character of chief, by
marrying hhn to a woman of rank in his
own dlfl:ri(5t. This f.ivour was immediately
granted to our folicltatlon, and we were in-
vited to the nuptials, which were folemnized
with all poliible mn(:jnlflcence. — Half a
whale, a large quantity of other fifh, with

•»»'■'■■-■* •^■.■»M»W.

■^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

^9S

an adequate proportion of oil, formd the i*-83.
fumptuous part of this entertain iiient, which Jlnb.
was ferved with a furprizing degree of regu-
larity to nar three hundred people, who
conduifted themfelves with great order, and
expreffed extreme fatisfa£lion at the fplendor
and hofpitality of their chief.

On the 6th, a meiTenger came on board Friday «
from Maquilla, with the information that he
was preparing to make us a very fuperb prc-
fent, and to defire our attendance on fliore,
in order to receive it. — We immediately
waited on the chief, and found him d re fled
in an European fuit of cloaths, with a ruffled
fhirt, and his hair queued and powdered : —
thefe decorations of his perfon were part of
thofe prefents which Coniekela had received
from us, and were, with all their weight of
copper ornaments, confidered as a proud dl-
ftindion of Nootka royalty. The king was
furrounded with feveral chiefs, who were
all adorned with fome particular article of
Englifli drefs, which appeared to allbrd an
uncommon gratification to their vanity ; and,
on this occafion, they had clean fed their faces
from all the oil and ochre with which they
were uliially bedaubed. — Indeed, the mcta-

N 2 . morphofis

1^6

VOVAGES TO THE

1788. morphofis was of fuch a nature, as, on our
June, firft entering the houfc, to puzzle us a little
in the recognition of our friends. This cir-
cumftance afforded them coniiderable enter-
tainment, which was followed by their rifing
up and imitating our mode of falutation. The
mannerof taking off their hats, the curious
gefturcs they fell into, in fcraping and bow-
ing to each other, with a few Englilh words
which they had acquired, and now repeated
aloud, without conne<Stion or underftanding,
compofed a fccne with which they were
delighted, and we could not be difpleafed.
When thefe efood-hunioured ceremonies were
over, the chief ordered feveral very fine fea
otter (kins to be produced before us, and af-
terwards f.nt on board the (hip ; to which
he added a very fine deer, that had been juft
killed in the woods by one of his people.
We were not backward in making a fuitablc
prefent to Maquilla ; and, on our return to
the Ihip, wc found that the otter-lkins iiad
preceded us.

The arrival of Comekela had infpired
thele people witli a decided preference for
the articles of European drefs ; — an hat,
a flioe, or a (locking, would generally turn

the

^ '■ '■ ^-»m

as, on our

1788.

Ju.sr.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

tlie balance of commercial negotiation in our
favour : — nor did we negle£l any motives
in our power to encourage a fancy which
might promote the ufc of woollens amiongft
them.

On the 7th, a complaint was made by the Saturday:
cooper that hisgrindftone had been ftolen by
the natives. — This was the firfl ad: of de-
predation that we had fufFered ; — indeed the
different (hips that had vifited the Sound
before us are fa.ld to have endured a fimilar
lofs. We had obferved that the attention of
the people had been principally dire(5ted to
this ftone, being convinced that it contamed
fome peculiar charm, by which it commu-
nicated, with fuch little trouble, fo (harp an
edge to our iron ; an operation which they
found a matter of no common difficulty.

The lofs of this article was of fome im-
portance ; and every means was exerted to
recover if, but in vain ; — even our applica-
tion to Maquilla was not, attended with the
ufual fuccefs. — It was, however, thought
more prudent to connive at the theft, than
engage in a difpute with the people; — we
therefore contented ourfelves with iflTuing
ftrict orders that none of the natives, except

N 3 the

197

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. the chiefs, fliould, in future, be admitted
Jt'NE. within the breaft-work that lurrounded the
houfc.
Sunday 8 Qi^ fhc 8th, a ftrangc canoe with feveral

people in it entered the cove, and coming
alongfide rlie (hip, fold us a fmall number of
fca otter (kins : — they alfo offered for fale an
human h.md, dried and (hrivelled up, the
fingers of which were compleat, and the
nails long; but our horror may be better
conceivtd than exprefl'cd, when we faw a
feal hanging from the car of one of the men
in the canoe, which was known to have be-
longed todje unfoitunate Mr. ^:illar,of the
Imperial Eagle, whole melancholy hiftory
was pcrfe(flly well known to every one on
board*. The failors fcarcely hefitated a

moment

* The Impprial Kar,le was a fhip employed tocolleft
furs on the Coad of America, in the year 1787. In
thecourfe of tliis bufiiufs, the Captain difpatclied his
long-boat from Kir.g George's Sound, on a trading
expedition ar> far as 47" North; Ihc then anchored
a-br-^aftof a rivtr, the ihallows at whofe entrance pre-
vciitrd tlie long-boat from getting into it. A fmall
boa», howev«r. which was attached to the other, was
ftnt L'[;tl)e liver with Mr, Millar, an officer of the im-
perial Ea^lc, auoiiier youn); gentleman, and four fea-

men.—

'^^'' i»matmm \

-^.;.-,-.^«RW<K'

I I

be admitted
rounded the

with feveral
and coming
11 number of
d for fale an
lied up, the
eat, and the
\y be better
n we faw a
le of the men

I to have be-
^iillar, of the
choly hiftory
every one on

hefitated a
moment

ploycJ to colleft
year 1787. In

II difpatched his
, on a trading

then anchored
fe entrance pre-
ito it. A fmall
the other, was
fficer of the Im-
), and four fea-
jncn.—

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

moment in exprefTing their opinion that it
mufl have been the hind of Mr. Miliar, and
that the people before tlicm were the mur-
derers of that officer. This fufplcion would
have caukd the certain death of our vllitors,
if it had not been fuggcflcd that the leal in
queftion might have been transferred, by a
fucceflion of barters, to the preient pofil-f-
for. — The being in pofl'dlion of tlie hand
was, however, coiifidcrt-d as fo prepondera-
ting a circuniftance, that it was no ealy
matter to keep tht: lallors in due bounds;
and who, after all, could not be rcArair.cd
from driving thefe people away from the
fhip, with every mark of in hilt and dctcf-
tation. Tluy proved, iiovvevcr, to be inno*
cent of the crime of which tluy l;ad b:en
fufpectcd; as wc were aHured, the n.xt
day, by Maquilla himfelf, on his own kno\v-
ledge, that they had received tlie articles
wdiich hadoccalioned fo much diliiun: to us,
in the way of trade, from the natives of
Queenhythe, which was tlie very place

men. — They continued rovv'in_^ till they came to a vil-
lage, where they were fuppoied to !:;ivo l-;ccn feizcd ,\m\
murtiorcil by the natives, as their cio.iths were aitcrwavds
fuund llaincd with blood.

N 4 wlicre

199

1788.

JUNS.

200

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. where Mr. Millar and his aflTociates had been
June, murdered. — But the chief did not attempt to
deny that the hand had belonged to one of
our unhappy countrymen ; and, from his
manifed confiifion in convcrfing on this
fubjc£l, and various other concurring cir-
cumftances, which will be related hereaf-
ter, wc were very much difpofed to believe
that Maquilla himfelf was a cannibal. —
There is, indeed, too much reafon to appre-
hend that the horrible traffic for human flcfli
extends, more or lefs, along this part of
the continent of America. Even our friend
Callicum repofed his head, at night, upon
a large bag, filled with human Ikulls, which
he fhewed as the trophies of his fuperior
courage ; and it is more than probable, that
the bodies of the vi£tims to which they
belonged, had furnifhed a banquet of vi«flory
for him and the warriors who fhared his
favage glory.

On the fame day Wicananifh, a powerful
chief to the Southward, at whofe court
Maquilla was vifiting when we arrived in
the Sound, came to return the vifit, with
two war canoes, and the greater part of his
numerous fuite fuperbly drefled in furs of

the

''-*-* %iaWBW i!»>r

' •*flj|Miiw*'' -

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

20 1

the higheft eftimation. Thefe people were 1788.
of a more thriving appearance than our J"«««
frienils at Nootka, which arofe, probably,
from their being fituated on a part of the
coaH: where whales were in greater plenty ;
— for this article, on which much of the
fuftenance, and all their luxury depended,
was beginning to be fcarce in Nootka Sound.
Wicanaiiilh paid us a formal vifit on board
the Felice, and invited us to his place of re-
(Idcncc, with a promife of great abundance
of furs; — but we could not, at prefent,
tempt him, or any of his attendants, by any
articles in our pofleflion, to part with the
beautiful drefl'es which they wore.

On the io>h, we obferved a general com- Tuefday i*
motion throughout the village, and, in a
fhort time, as if by enchantment, the greater
part of the houfes difappeared. — When we
went on fliore, Maquilla informed us that
his people were preparing to remove to a bay
which was at the diftance of abou; ts^o miles
from the Sound, on account of tne great
quantities of fifli which refortcd thither, not
only to procure a prefent ftock of whale
and other fi(h, but to take the earlleft op-
portunity

S02

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. portunity to prepare for their winter's fub-
juNE. fifteiicc.

The manner In which the houfes of
Nootkaare conftrinflcd, renders the embark-
ations as well as debarkations a work of lit-
tle time and ready execution, io that a large
and populous village is entirely removed to
a different ftatlon with as mucli eafe as any
other water carriage. But a more particular
account of thcle and fimilar circumftances
relating to the manners and cudoms of
thefe North Weftcrn Americans, will, as we
have before had occafion to obCervc, be given
in another part of this volume.

Several young Tea otters were brought cui
board /or {i\le, which found no purchafers.
One of them was brought alive ; the dams
and all their whelps had been killed by Ma«
quilla, except this, which, however, had
met with fome very rougli treatment, as
one of its eyes had been evidently forced out
of its focket. It was very fmall, made a
noife exactly like a young child, and was the
moft animated creature we had ever feen
among the brute race. — After keeping it a
day or two, we threw it, into the fja, in
order to let it cfcape ; but, to our great fur-
* , . prize.

'•^i^

tfi ,^ »-.-i , a

NORTf WE^T COAST OF AMERICA.

203

prize, wc found that it could neither dive 1788,
or fwim, but cotitinucd flouncing about in Jun*-
the wat.r till wc retook ir on board, when
it loon at'rcr died from tin. bruifcs it had re-
ceived, — Tills circiimftance is, however,
eafily accounted for, as the dam of the fea
otter is well known to carry its young ones
on its back till a certain period, when they
have acquired both (Irength and habit tq
take care of tiiemlelvTS.

CHAP.

204

1788.

JUMI.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. XI.

•ml

Wedncfdayii

Ship prepares to put to Sea, ^^T he Pinnace flokn
by the hiatives, — ImpoJJibility rjf recovering
her, — Some Uneafinejjes on beard the Ship. —
Officers and Party intended to be left onjhrre^
iauded. — Provifians made for equipping the
new ycffel. — 7'he Sajeiy of the Party con-
f lilted. — Prngrefs of the new FeJlfeL — Health
of the Crew. — Supplies c/ Fi/b. — J formal
Vifit to Maquilla^ and Renewal rfthc 'treaty^
^c, — He is mads: acquainted with the probable
^ime of the I p m c? kn i A *s Arrival. — Requefls
a Letter for the Captain.— Our /Ifloyiipment
at his Knoiijledge, and by what Means it was
obtained, — Story of Air , Mace ay . — Callicum
arrives from hunting the Sea Otter. '^Ar-
ticles which had beh.ngcd to Sir fofeph Banks
in his PoJfeHion. — T'he Ship puts to Sea. —
Plan of future Prccerdings, £fc. ^c,

ON the I ith of June, the weather being
fine and moderate, the fhip was un-
moored and towed by the boats out of
Friendly Cove, in order to put to Tea : it
had been our intention to have departed on

the

r^i>if^«mismm*i^- ^

■A*8pst»»^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

205

the 9th, hut we fuffercd an accident which i^SS.
very much diftrcflcd us : this was no lefs Jwnk.
than the lofs of the Pinnace, a very large
fine boat, and the only one of the kind we
had. We were difpolcd to btllcve, at firft,
that (he broke adrift from the* fhip in the
night, in a guft of wind, without being per-
ceived by the watch ; — but In the morning"
fhe was not to be feen, and both boats and
canoes were difpatched In fearch of her,
but to no purpol'c of fucccfs. Large re-
wards were then offered to the natives If
they would reftore her, as, from a variety of
citcumft.inces, we had no doubt but that fhe
was In their pofl'eflion. Maquilla and Cal-
Ileum both afllrted their liniocence in the
ftrongeft terms ; but it afterwards appeared,
as we fufpe<5lcd, that the boat had been fto-
len and broken up for the fake of the iron
and nails, which were afterwards difperfcd
throughout the Sound.

This theft threatened, at firft, n rupture
between us and the chief; and while there
were any hopes of producing tlie reftoratlon
of the Pinnace, we affumed rather an ap-
pearance of refentment ; but when we were
convinced that the recovery of the boat was

Im-

'pi

206

VOYAGES TO THE

',/

'',\

, ]'■■

1788. impra£Vicable, we let the matter pafs over
June, without any further buflle or dlOurbance.
Had we, indeed, proceeded to take any fteps
towards a retaliation, it would probably have
occafioned a breach between us and the chief
of Nootka, which might have been difad-
vantageous to our commercial objedls in
general, and been attended with evident dan-
ger to the party we (hould leave behind us.
We therefore contented ourfelves with warn-
ing Maquilla againfl: any depredations of a
fimilar nature, and fufpending the quarter-
mafters from their ftations, as it was from
their negled that this very diftreffing incon-
venience proceeded.

There ftill continued to lurk amongft
the crew thofe fymptoms of mutiny which
had, at times, difcovered itfelf in the early
part of the voyage ; though we had flattered
ourfelves that it was entirely eradicated pre-
vious to our arrival at Samboingan. The
boatfwain had lately failed in that refpedl to
the officers which the duties of his ftation
indifpenfably obliged him to obferve. But
a proper degree of fpirit and exertion checked
fuch menacing condu£V, and he was degra-
ded from his (ituation to the inferior duty

3 before

W !:!

'"'••'*'***W.-H9fflr.v.

1 1

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

before the maft. Another boatfwain was ap-
pointed in his ftead, and the whole of this
proceeding was entered in the log-book.

On the day previous to our departure we
landed the officers and party who were to
remain on (hore with the carpenters, in order
to compleat the veflll. Proper inftrudions
were left with the commanding officer,
fliould the Felice fail in her propofcd re-
turn, or any fatality happen cither to her
or the Iphlgenia, who was expe<fted in the
Sound by the latter end of the autumn.—
In cafe fuch an accumulated misfortune
fliould befi\l the expedition, we left every
necefl'ary ftore to equip the new vefl'el for
fea, with fufficient provifions to carry her
to the Sandwich Iflands, where fhe would
be able to obtain fufficient refreffiment to
enable her to proceed to China. It was but
a necefiary duty to guard, as well as we
were able, againft every poffible calamity ;
the fliip*s company did not appear to feel
any imprefiions of an unfavourable omen,
and we left our friends on flic re with the
moft chearhig hopes of finding them at our
return, in a fituation of great adva? tage and
comfort.

Butj

207
1788.

June.

:'!

208 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. But, independent of the veiTel, we hoped
June, to reap very confiderable benefits from tlic
party on (hore ; at lead we had every reafon
to expe(5t that they would col left all the
furs taken by the inhabitants of King
George's Sound during the fummer months,
which we knew mufl be confiderable. We
were, at all events, very certaifi that they
would remain free from difturbance And mo.
legation ; for befides a piece of cannon
mounted on the works, the little fort was
well fupplied with arms and ammunition ;
and the garrifou, including the artificers,
was fully fufficient to defend it againfl: any
power that could be brought agahift it.

The vefld was in great forwardnefs, fc-
veral of her floor-timbers were laid, and the
armourers had prepared a large quantity of
nails and bolts. There was eftabliflicd, be-
fides, a very convenient rope-walk, and we
had already begun to manufacture that ef-
fential article. So that, if ail the circum-
ftances of erecting a comfortable and com-
modious houfe, ballafting and equip j-*!!!?^, the
Felice for fea, and the laborious bufnicls of
procuring timber and preparing materials for
the conftruction of the new veilels, with
. . ^ fome

1 i

NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.

fbme few neceflary attentions to our com-
mercial arrangements, be confidefed, the
accufation of idlenefs or negligence, would
be the laft that the moft unreflecting injuftice
could lay to our charge.

On our firft arrival in the Sound th6
country appeared moid, dreary, and uncom-
fortable ; but we obferved very little fnow
then on the ground, and that little was
quickly waflicd away by the heavy rains
which fucceeded our arrival : — we found
the air remarkably mild, and the frefli
greens and onions, which were in thegreat-
eft abundance, foon reftored the invalids
we had on board to a ftate of perfe(Si: health.

Our fupplics of fifli were conftant and
regular, and the natives never failed to bring
to daily fale as much of this article as they
could fpare from the demands of home con-
fumption.

On the eve of our departure, a formal vifit
was paid Maquilla, in order to acquaint him
that on the next day we propofed to leave
the Sound. We made him underftand that
it would be three or four months before
our (hip would return, and about what time
we fuppofed the veflel on the ftocks would
Vol. I. O b«

209

1788.

JUNI.

■• 1

I I

...1

tl9

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. be launched. They called the latterAf^x-
JuNi. tnallee^ or (hip, and the former TigJbee Ma*

njatlee^ or great (hip. The chief was alfo

requefted to fhew every mark of attention
and friendfhip to the party we (hould leave
on fhore ; and as a bribe to fecure his at-
tachment, he was promifed that when we
finally left the coaft, he fhoiild enter into
full pofl'cflion of thehoufe and all the goods
and chattels thereunto belonging. As a
proof of our immediate regard, he was pre-
fented with a fuit of cloaths covered with
metal buttons, in his eyes of extraordinary
eftimation ; feveral prefents were made to
the, ladies of his family ; and as wc were
■ taking our leave, an old lady, the aunt of
Comekela, whom we have already defcribed
as a mafs of age and filthinefs, requefted,
in a very earneft manner, to be indulged
with a pair of buckles, which, immediately
on her receiving them, were hung in her
ears, with the fame pride that European
beauty feels in decorating its charms with
the gems of India.

Maquilla, who was glowing with delight
at the attentions we had paid him, readily
granted every requ eft we thought proper to

make,

^»t*SI*ft»SiS*»--

I I

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA;

211

harms with

make, and confirmed, with the ftrongeft 1788.
aflu ranees of good taith, the treaty of friend- •I^*'*-
fhip which had been already entered into
between us. He was now alfo informed that
another (hip was expe<51:ed in the Sound,
which might probably arrive in our abfcnce,
and that the Captain of this fhip was our
particular friend. On receiving this intel*
ligence, he very much aflonifhed us by de-
manding, without the leaft hefitation, that
we would leave a letter with him for our *
friend, the chief. We had not the leaft idea
that thefe people had the moft imperfect
notion of our poflefTnig the faculty of com-
municating our thoughts to each other on
paper ; and curioiity was inflantly awake,
to know by what means th^y could po/Iibly
have acquired fuch an article of information.
It was, however, foon iugr^cfled to us, that
thefe people obtained their knowledge from
a Mr. Maccay, who had remained, wc be-
lieve, upwards of fourteen months among
them, during which time he had kept a jour-
nal, which we have feen, and the circum-
ftance of which cannot be pafl'ed over without
fome account of the bufinefs which occa-

O z fioncd

112

VOYAGES TO THE

I if

1788. doncd his being left to nothing better than

jwNi. favage life.

The fliips Captain Cook and Experiment
had been equipped under the direftion of
Mr. Scot, — whofe mercantile experience and
fpirit are acknowledged in Europe as well
as in India, — from Bombay to America, for
the purpofe of colle(5ling furs: — they ar-
rived on the coaft in the year 1786, and
left Mr. Maccay, the furgeon's mate on
board one of them, with his own entire con-
fent and approbation, under the protedion
of Maquilla. Mr. Strange, who had the
fuperintendence of thefe (hips, entertained
an opinion that very great commercial effects
might proceed from leaving Mr. Maccay
with the natives of King George's Sound,
to learn their language, cuftoms and man-
ners. He was, therefore, accordingly left
in the year 1786, and continued with them
till 1787, when he embarked for China on
board the Imperial Eagle.

Though this gentleman had been furnifh^
ed with cloaths and provifions for his ftay at
Nootka, he was reduced to the level of a
favage, and we hardly could conceive how
it was poflible for an European conftitution

. / '

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

to fupportitfelfwith foodaverfe to its habits
and its nature, — to live in every fpecies of
filth, and fatisfy even hunger with train oil
and blubber. But this was not all, — during
Mr. Maccay's ftay, from the length and
feverlty of the winter, a fiimine reigned at
Nootka Sound : the (lock of dried fifli was
expended, and no frefh fupply of any kind
was to be caught; fo that the natives were
obliged to fubmit to a ftatcd allowance, and
the chiefs brought every day to our coun-
trymen, the dated meal of feven dried her-
rings heads. The perufal of this gentle-
man's journal would Ihock any mind tinc-
tured with humanity. The favages, how-
ever, gave him a wife, and once or twice
took him with them to feafts and diftant
parts; and we can vouch, whatever their
condu£l: may have been, that both the chiefs
at Nootka and Wicananifh enquired con-
cerning his welfare as if they felt the affec-
tion for him which they expreffed.

Maquilla was therefore indulged with a
letter agreeable to his requeft ; and we were
not long in making the difcovery, that a
dread of the Iphigenia*s arrival would prove
a ftronger protection to our party, than all

O 3 the

21J

1788.

VNE.

ai4

VOYAGES TO THE

r ,s

il'

.r % !f

: I

P' '<

J 788. the kindnefs we had beftowed on, and all
June, jjjg promifes which we had received from
him.

CalJicum, who had been gone for fome
time to hunt otters, was now returned, and
it gave us no little Ihtisfadtion that the chief
on whom we had the moft reliance, and
who was the profelied prote<5lor and patron
of our party, was come back to Nootka,
previous to our departure from it. The
ufual tokens of friendlhip pafled between
us ; but, in return for the prelent we now
made him, he furprifed us with three pieces
' of a brafly metal formed like cricket bats,

on which the remains of the name and arms
of Sir Jofeph Banks, and the date of the year
1775, were very evident. On one of them
the engraving was not fo much injured as to
prevent the whole of it from being very
intelligible ; on the others, part of thefe
diftin*5l marks was worn out. But thele
tokens of regard were returned to the ami-
able chief, to continue the remembrance of

the original donor of them, to whofe enter-
prifing and phllofophic fpirit we may be
faid to be in a great meaiure indebted for
the difcovery of a coaft, which, in fpite of

every

^
J

on, and all
t'ceived from

•'^m^gtwf

ne for fome
eturned, and
hat the chief
reliance, and
r and patron

to Nootka,
)m it. The
red between
Cent we now

three pieces
cricket bats,
me and arms
:e of the year

one of them
injured as to

being very
art of thefe
But thefe
1 to the ami-
smbrance of
ivhofe enter-
we may be
ndebted for
, in fpite of
every

:ii

S-

I'-

^//amM, a .A'/?//Y off /a >( V ,

-^'

Fuh/iX6JjA/t^fl6.2^^o.f>yJW,t/ferM'j6.^.ficcntJi/fy.

Ill

i'-. .^»'*

^:^

tW/tY,,r, W////V' t>f'(V////<r.i^
(hif of tbf. SaM/Ay/ii^^^yirftt/i>\

■\

NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.

every impediment, will, I truft, prove a
fourcc of beneficial commerce to our coun-

On pnttiiig fo fca, it was determined to
trace the buutlicm pnrt of the coaft from
King George's Souiul, as the Ipliigcnla was
to trace the Northern pnrt of it, from Couk's
River to the fame place ; by which ar-
rangement the w hole of the American con-
tinent from 60'' to 45° North would be ex-
plored, with various intermediate places
which were not examined by Captain Cook.
We accordingly let fail, after having given
repeated inftrudions to the party we left
behind, to hold themfelves continually on
their guard againft the natives,— and to be
extremely attentive to preferve the moft
perfe6l harmony with the inhabitants of
Nootka Sound,

i»5

1788.

JV-NK.

■f

- . >

CHAP.

I '- »i

2l6

VOYAGES TO THE

Juki.

CHAP. XIT.

111

I'l

9 , f^

'jk

m\}l

H^K iii,3,i

^he Chief sHanna and Detootchevijtt the Ship on
her Way to the Rejidence cfWicananipj^ &c.
— JVicananiJh arrives on board, and pilots the
Ship into his Roadjled. — Numbers of the In-
habitants come off to the Ship.-— The Face of
the Country and the Village of IVicananijlo
defcribed.-^Vifit paid to the Chief — Defer ip -
tionof his Houf\ — Their Ingenuity a Subje£i
of Aflonifhment. — Immenfe Family of Wican-
anifh, — His Wives ; their Beauty, &c. —
£ri/k Trade carried on with the Natives. —
Murder of a Stranger by the People of the
Village, — The Ship obliged by bad Weather tq
enter the inner Port, named Port Cox,

Wednefdayii/^N the 1 1 til of June in the evening, we
^^ were purfuing our courfe to the South
Eaft, at the diftance of three miles from
the fhore, when, at funfet, Breaker's Point,
which forms the Eaftern (hore of the entrance
of King George's Sound, bore in the dire(Slion
pf North Weft half Weft, and a point ap-
peared

■it . ^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

peared ftretching to the Southward of Break-
er's Point, which obtained the name of
Half-way Point, on account of its being
about midway between King George's Sound
and the refidence of Wicananifli. This
point bore Eaft, and our diftance from the
ihore might be about three leagues. By a
medium of feveral amplitudes and azimuths,
the variation of the compafs was 21° 5'
Eafterly.

We continued our courfe till eleven
o'clock, with the long-boat in tow, when it
was thought prudent to heave to for the
night. ,At day-break on the 12th, we made
fail, with the wind variable. At noon the
obferved latitude was 49° 22' North, though
we yet obferved Breaker's Point bearing
North Weft by North ; and at the fame
time faw an high mountain over the entrance
of Wicananifti, bearing Eaft North Eaft, at
the diftance of feven leagues.

As we purfued our courfe, under an cafjr
fail, in order to examine the coaft between
our prefent pofition and King George's
Sound, the wind veered to the South Eaft
by Eaft, and the weather became overcaft ;
^s this wind was diredtly againft us, the

fliip

217

1788.

,1
*

Juke.

•

-M

•

il'

- .fei^fcrf-"- *- -• - -•■ w— -

2l8

VOYAGES TO THE

■i . .

' 1-

ffB,

[■1

|B^'

1 788. fliip was tacked, and we ftood out to fea,
June, being apprehenfive of bad weather, which
we generally found to attend the South Eaft
•winds. Our fears were foon and very fully
confirmed, for the weather became fqually
and violent. The top-fails were clofe reefed;
and we continued (landing to fea to procure
an offing, the moft important objedl of at-
tention on this coaft. In the night it blew
very hard from the South Eaft, with an
heavy fea, thick weather, and conftant as
well as violent rain. At midnight the (hip
was wore, and we flood in for the land.

At day-break on the 13th, the weather,
though it cleared away at times, had a very
tempeftuous appearance ; our diftance from
the land might be fix leagues, and the re-
markable hill above Wicananifli appeared
very plain in the form of a fugar-loaf ; it
bore North Eaft by Eaft feven leagues. As
we ftood in for the ftiore, feveral canoes came
off to us from a clufter of iflands nearly
abreaft of us, in moft of which there were
upwards of twenty men, of a pleafing ap-
pearance and brawny form, chiefly cloathed
in otter (kins of great beauty. They pad-
dled along with great velocity, and after

fomc

' I

r.'

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

219

i \

fome time, two of the boats came along-fide, 1 788,
and the people in them did not hefitate to Junk.
come on board. Amongft them there were
two chiefs, named Hanna and Detootche,
who refided at a village abreaft of the (hip.
They were the handfomeft men we had feen :
— Hanna was about forty, and carried in his
looks all the exterior marks of pleafantry and
good humour ; Detootche was a young man,
who to the btauty of form, added the graces
of manner; and, as far as our penetration
could difcover, the better qualities of the
mind. They appeared to be perfectly at eafe
m our fociety, fhook every perfon on board
by the hand, and gave us very friendly in-
vitations to receive the hofpitality of their
territory. They were extremely prefTing
that the ftiip fhould go in among the iflands.
But as we had predetermined to feek out
the rcfidence of Wicananifli, which we were
inftrudled was not flir from King George's
Sound, we kept (landing with that view
towards the iflands, which, as we approach-
ed, appeared to be low and woody, but
we could perceive no praflicable channel
between them. Hanna and Detootche, to

whom

J
I

1 1

220

VOYAGES TO THE

L<i

}

1788'. whom we had made fome trifling prefents,
June, now took their leave and paddled on (here.
About noon the weather broke up, and
the wind veered to the Northward of Eaft,
with wiiich we ftood along the (hore to enter
between this range of iflands and the main ;
when we perceived another fmall fleet of
canoes approaching us, in the foremoft of
which we faw Wicananifli, who, in a fhort
time came on board, and undertook to pilot
us himfelf into his harbour, the entrance of
which, as he pointed it out to us, was at the
diftance of about five miles.

Boats were now fent a-head to found, and
we followed, under an eafy fail ; when,
after rounding the extremity of the South-
ernmoft ifland, we entered the roadfted,
pa{ling between feveral reefs of rocks. Our
foundings were very regular ; and, about
one o'clock, we anchored between the main
and the iflands, being pretty well ftieltered
from the fea. Wicananilh proved an ex-
'' cellent pilot, and wa? not only indefatigable
in his own exertions, but equally attentive
to the condu£l of his canoes, in their at-
tendance upon us.

' This

■s .ff^Ki^:

^^•fSilWBf'^-^lliP^^

/.'

. ^:

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 22l

This roadfted bore the wildeft appearance 1^88.
that can be conceived, and was defended Jims,
from the fea by feveral fmall iflets and reefs,
which nearly connected them. The port we
obferved was (ituated about two miles from
the anchoring ground we occupied, the en-
trance of which did not appear to be more
than two cables length in breadth.

Abreaft of the (hip, on one of the iflands,
we perceived a village almoft thrice as large
as that of Xootka ; from every part of which
we now faw the people launching their ca-
noes, and coming off in flioals to the fliip,
laden with fi(h, wild onions, and berries,
which they difpofed of to the failors for
fmall bits of irpn, and other articles of fimi-

lar attraiStion. Wicananifh w^as enter*

talned during the greater part of the 3ay on
board, with levcral of his friends, and at
night returned to the (hore, followed by a
long train of natives, who had waited to at-
tend him.

The very fine weather on the 14th, gave Saturday 14
us an opportunity to obferve the face of the
country, which appeared on all fides to be
an impenetrable foreft, without any intervals
of a clear country. The village of Wicananifh

I flands

v.i

..i yi

Wm'l

i22

VOYAGES TO THE

•11

1788. ftands on a rifing bank near the fea, and
juKB. is backed by the woods. In conleqiience of
a meffage from the chief to invite us to a
fenft at his houfe, we landed about noon,
when we were met by a large crowd of
women and children, and condu(5led by the
brother of Wicananifli to the place of enter-
tainment.

On entering the honfc, we were abfolute-
ly aftoniflied at the vaft area it cnclofcd. —
It contained a large fquare, boarded up clofe
on all fides to the height of twenty feet,
with planks of an uncommon breadth and
length. Three enormous trees, rudely car-
ved and painted, formed the rafters, which
were fupported at the ends and in the mid-
dle by gigantic images, carved out of huge
blocks of timber. The fame kind of broad
planks covered the whole to keep out the
rain ; but they were fo placed as to be re-
moved at pleafure, either to receive the air
and light, or let out the fmoke. In the mid-
dle of this fpacious room were feveral fires,
and befide them large wooden vefl'els filled
with fifh foup. Large flices of whale's
fleih lay in a flate of preparation to be put in
iimilar machines filled with water, into

• ■ which

\:\

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

which the women, with a kind of tongs,
conveyed hot ftones from very fierce fires,
in order to make it boil : — heaps of fifh
were ftrewed about, and in this central part
of the place, which might very properly be
called the kitchen, flood large feal-fkins
filled with oil, from whence the guefts were
ferved with that delicious beverage.

The trees that fupported the roof were
of a fize which would render the maft of a
firft-rateman of war diminutive, on a com-
parifon with them ; indeed our curiofity av«i
well as our aftonifliment was on its utmoft
ftretch, when we confidered the ftrength
that muft be neceflary to raife thefe enor-
mous beams to their prefent elevation ; and
how fuch ftrength could be found by a peo-
ple wholly unacquainted with mechanic
powers. The door by which we entered this
extraordinary fabric, was the mouth of one
of thefe huge images, which, large as it may
be fuppofed, was not difproportioned to the
other features of this monftrous vifage. —
We afcended by a few fteps on the out fide,
and after paffing this extraordinary kind
of portal, defcended down the chin into
the houfe, where we found new matter for

afto-

223

1788.

Juke.

. .11

I.'

224

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. aftonifhment in the number of mer, women,
JuHK- and children, who compofed the family of
the chief; which confifted of at leaft eight
hundred perfons. Thefe were divided into
groupes, according to their refpe<5tive offices,
which had their diftindt places afligned them.
The whole of the building was furrounded
by a bench, about two feet from the ground,
on which the various inhabitants fat, eat
and flept. The chief appeared at the upper
end of the room, furrounded by natives of
rank, on a fmali raifed platform, round
which were placed feveral large chefts, over
which hung bladders of oil, large dices
of whale's flefh, and proportionable gobbets
of blubber". Feftoons of human fculls, ar-
ranged with fome attention to uniformity,
were difpofed in almofl: every part where
they could be placed, and were confidered
as a very fplendid decoration of the royal
apartment.

When we appeared, the guefts had made
a confiderable advance in their banquet. —
Before each perfon was placed a large (lice
of boiled whale, which, with fmall wooden
diflies, filled with oil and fifli foup, and a
large mufcle-ftiell, by way of fpoon, com-
.. ^ pofed

r 1 1

i'\

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

pofcd the economy of the table. The fer-
vants were bufily employed hi prepanng
to replenlfh the fevcral didies as they were
emptied, and the women in pickuig and open-
ing the bark of a tree which ferved the pur-
pofc of towels. If the luxury of this en-
tertainment is to be determined by the vo-
racioufnefs with which it was eaten, and
the quantity that was fwallowcd, we muft
confider it as the mofl luxurious feafl we
had ever beheld. Even the children, and
fome of them were not more than three
years old, pofleflcd the fame rapacious ap-
petite for oil and blubber as their fathers.
The women, however, are forbidden from
eating at thefe ceremonials.

Wicananiih, with an air of hofpitality
which would have graced a n:iore cultivated
fociety, met us halt way from the entrance,
and condu^fted us to a feat near his own, on
which we placed ourfelves, and indulged
our curiofity during the remainder of the
banquet, in viewing the perfpeclive of this
lingular habitation.

The feaft being ended, we were defired

to (hew the prefents which were intended

for the chief: — a great variety of articles.

Vol. I. P brought

225

1788.

JUNI.

i^^^

ai^

VOYAGIS TO THt

i 1,

1788. brought for that purpofe, were accordingly
juNi. difplayed, among which were feveral blan-
kets and two copper tea-kettles. The eyes of
the whole aflembly were rivetted on thef«
tinufual obje^s, and a guardian was imme*
diately afligned to the two tea-kettles, who,
on account of their extraordinary value and
beauty, was ordered to place them with great
care in the royal coiTcrs, which confifted of
large chefts rudely carved, and fancifully
adorned with human teeth.

About fifty men now advanced in the
middle of the area, each of ll.em holding up
before us a fea otter Ikin of near fix feet in
length, and the moft jetty blacknefs. As
they remained in this pofture, the chief
made a fpeech, and giving his hand in token
of friendfliip, informed us that thcfe Ikins
were the return he propofed to make for our
prefent, and accordingly ordered them to be
immediately fent to the fhip.

Our royal hoft appeared to be entirely
fatisfied with our homage; and we, who
were equally pleafcd with his magnificence,
were about to take our leave, when the ladieS
of his family advanced towards us, from ^
diflant part of the building, whither they

had

( /

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMEP'CA.

227

had retired during the entertainment. Two 178S,
of them had paflcd the middle age, but the i^'"*-
other two were young, and the beauty of
their countenances was To powerful as to
predominate over the oil and red ochre which,
in a great meafure, covered them. One of
the latter, in particular, dlfplayed fo fweet
an air of diffidence and modefty, that no
difguft of colour, or deformity of drefs, could
preclude her from awakening an intereft even
in minds cultured to refinement. We had
not, very fortunately, difpofed of all the
treafure we had brought on (horo, and a few
beads and ear-rings that yet remained, ferved
to give our vifit a concluding grace, by pre-
fenting them to thefe ladies of the court.

We continued till the 17th, carrying on
a very brifk trade with the natives. The '
chief generally paid us a vifit every day, and
we lived on the mofl friendly terms with
him and the whole village. The natives
brought us abundance of fifh of various
kinds. The falmon and falmon-trout was of
the beft flavour, and we generally received
cod, halibut, rock-fi(h, and herrings frefh
from the lea; while the women and children
fold us cray-fUh, berries, wild onions, fal-

P2 lads.

228

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. l^<Js, and other cfculcnt plants : — an occa-
June, fional piece of vcnifon alfo heightened the
luxury of our table.
Tu«fdayi7 On the 17th, Wicananifh requcfted our
attendance on fliore to engage in a barter for
furs. On our landing, we were condu£lcd,
as before, to his houfc, where wc found the
number of his family to be rather encreafed
• than diminlfhed. No form or ceremony,
however, was now employed ; the whole
family fecmed to enjoy a foclable intcr-
courfe with each other ; the women were
permitted to eat with the men, and greatly
to our fatlsfajHiion, the whole company ap-
peared with the familiarity of ijnbefmcared
faces, fo th'it we had an opportunity of
examining: the comelinefs of one fex, and
the beauty of the other. This circumftancc
led us to infer, that thefe people employ
paint only on days of feflivity and cere-
mony.

The fea otter llvins and other furs were
now produced to the number of thirty, and
■of the moll: beautiful kind ; which, after a
confiderablc deal of negotiation, we at length
purchaled ; for we found, to our coft, that
thcfc people, like thole of Nootka, poflefTed

all

1 i

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMKRICA.

229

:s: — an occa-
clghteiicd the

rcquefted our

in a barter for

re condu6lcd,

wc found the

her encreafcd

or ceremony,

the whole

jclable intLT-

women were

, and great 1/

company ap-

ijnbeimcared

3port unity of

one fcx, and

circumftance

lople employ

ty and cere-

icr furs were
f thirty, and
hich, after a
, we at length
>ur coft, that
tka, poflefTed
all

all the cunning neccfl'ary to the gains of 1788,
mercantile life. The lame rage for pre- Jw.fi.
fcnts prevailed here, as in the Sound ; and
even the ladies would interf(jre in making a
bar ^ain, and retard the conclulion of it, till
they had been gratified with an added of-
fering.

Juft as we were going to embark, there was
a fiuldcn and univcrfal confufion throughout
the village; aconfiderable number of canoes
were inftantly filled with armed men, and
being launched in a moment, were paddled
to the (hip. At firft we were apprchenfive
that fome broil had taken place between the
natives and the crew ; but we were foon
fatisfied that a matter of political jcaloufy,
refpetfting fome of their neighbours, was
the caufe of this fudden commotion. Some
ft rangers having ventured to vifit the (hip
without the knowledge of VVicananini, the
chief had ordered his people to fcill upon the
intruders, one of whom they had now feized
and brought on (hore. We are forry to add,
that this unfortunate man was immediately
hurried into the woods, where we have every
reafon to apprehend that he was quickly
murdered. We made the moft earneft inter-

P 3 ceflioa

■jfcfeitt^a-wi*.'"™*"

'"ym*"

250

VOYAGES TO THE

(

iifPfii ' J
ill

1788. ceflion in his behalf, and even proceeded to
June, threats on the occafion ; but while we were
employed in the office of mercy, they, we
fear, were enjoying the barbarity of re-
venge. This event ftrengthened our opinion,
that however mild and friendly the behaviour
of thefe people might be to us, perhaps
'' inidcr the influence of fear, they were fierce

and cruel to each other. Indeed it had been
very generally obfcrved by us all, that at
times, their countenances told a very plain
tale of a favage mind.
Friday 20 The Weather was very bad till the 20th,
it blowing an hard gale of wind from the
South Eaft, with continual rain. At times,
alfo, an heavy fwell rolled in upon us, which
rendered our fituation very unpleafant. It
, was therefore determined that we fhould

embrace the firft favourable moment to get
into the inner port, which had been already
, furveycd, and was found to be not only con-
venient, but entirely defended from thq
winds.

In the evening it moderated, when the (hip

was got under fail, which was no fooner ob-

ferved by Wicananifli than he came on board,

. and fafcly piloted us into the harbour, which

• we

■<fc ■.1>'*J*»%ii^'.ri.ii- • ., ,

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

33 s

we named Port Cox, in honour of our friend 1783,
John Henry Cox, Efq. — But not chufing to Jy«»»
truft entirely to the Ikill of the chief on the
occaiion, the boats were fent a-head to found,
particularly on the bar; on which wc had
three and an half and four fathoms, and fbon
after deepened our water to thirteen, four-
teen and fifteen fathoms. It then decreafcd
to eight, in which depth we dropped our
anchor in a fafe and fccure harbour.

I '

CHAP.

t^z

1788.

June.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. xiir.

7ke People cflVicananifi lefs civilized than thofe
at Nootka, — Gcrtai'/i n:c'?Jjhry Precautions give
offence to, and ccccf.on n Coclnefs between us
and the Chief. — Good Undcrfmnding reftored,
and the Irea'y of FricndJJjip renewed. — Re^

■ ciprocal Pj-efcnts pafs on the Occafion, — 77j<f
Vfe of Fire-arms known to thefc People, — •
7he Village removes to a fnaU Diftance. —
Treaty between Wicana?iill, Hanna and De^
tootche. — Prcfcnts on the Qccajvm. — Good Con"
fequenccs rcfuJting to us from the I'realy. —
Prefcnls m^idc to and received from Wicana-
nifo, — Prcfent arrives from King George^ s
Sound, &C.—- Pre fare for Sea. — T/:e Felice
proceeds on her Voyage, — Defer ipl ion of Port
CoXf &c, ^c,

ON the firft view, the fubjc<5ls of this
chief appeared to be far lefs civilized
than our friends at Nootka ; we therefore
proportionably cncrcafed our precautions.—
Their numbers were very coufiderable, and
the boldnefs they difcovered in all their
g tranfac-

1 1 • 1

NORTH WESl,' COAST OF AMERICA.

233

tranfa^llons with us, gave us reafon to be* iy88,
lieve, that any relaxation of our viglhnce juxi,
might tempt them to a condu£l which
would produce difiigreeabie confequences to
us all. Befides, both in fagacity, as well as
activity, they were very fuperior to the in-
habitants of King George's Sound.— Wi-
cananilh himfelf, though rather inclined
to be corpulent, was athletic and adive ;—
his brothers poflcffed the fame advantages;
and all the young men were robuft, in a
continual ftate of exercife, and enured to
confl-ant labour. We obferved, that the mod
tempcftuous weather never previ:;nted them
from gv'iing to fca, to ftrike the whale or kill
the otter : — fi Thing was an occupation which
was followed only by the inferior clafles of
the people. — The dominions of this chief
were ve*-/ extenfive, and the numerous tribes
who acknowledged his dominion, rendered
him a very powerful fovereign. We, thet««
fore, had fufficient reafon to remain in a ftate
of preparation againft the poflibility of that
mifchief which it was in his power to do us,
and w^hich opportunity might tempt him to
employ.

. .. Thit

m
h

»34

VOYAGES TO THE

1788.

|VNI.

♦ ' 1

' 1*1 1'

This vigilance on our part, which was
confidered by the chief as diftruft in his
friend(hip, gave him great offence, and oc-
cafioned a (hort coolnefs between us. — On
Saturday si the 2ift Wicananilh obferved that whenever
he paid us a vifit, the great cabin was de-
corated with arms, and that feveral blun-
derbuffes, &c. were placed on the deck ;
and not only left the (hip in great anger,
but refufed to trade with us himfelf, and
forbade his people from bringing us any fup-
plies of fi(h or vegetables. — It was not, how-
ever, by any means, our intereft that things
ihould remain in this unpleafant, as well
as inconvenient fituation ; it was therefore
thought prudent to pay him a vifit of peace
Stodayaz on the following day ; when, by the conci-
liating prefent of a fword, with a brafs
handle, and a large copper di(h, the treaty
of friendfliip was renewed ; and this reftora-
tion of good- humour was confirmed by a
prefent of five beautiful otter ikins, a fat
doe, and a fupply of fifh for the crew. The
gcnerofity, as well as friendly conduct of
the chief, on this occafion, feemed to demand
, an cxtr.iordinary exertion of acknowledgment
on ours ; and we made hun happy beyond

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

*3S

cxpreffion, by adding to his regalia a plftol 1788.
and two charges of powder ; a prefent which J""**
he had long folicited. Indeed, the ufe of
fire-arms was known to this tribe previous
to our arrival among them. — When the Re-
folution and the DlTcovery firfl entered King
George*s Sound, Wlcananifli happened to be
there, on a vifit to Maquilla, and then ac-
quired this unfufpefted branch of know-
ledge.

On the 28th, we obferved that the whole
village removed from their clofe vicinity to
the fea, into the inner port, with the fame
eafy transfer which we had obferved on a
funilar occafion at Nootka, and took up
their new pofition about a mile from the
(hip, on a point of land, juft within the
entrance of the harbour.

We were now formally made acquainted
by Wicanani(h, that a treaty was negotiating
between the chiefs Hanna and Detootche
and himfelf, in which we were to be in-
cluded ; the fubftance of which was, — that
all the furs then in their poflellion (hould be
fold to Wicananilh ; — that they Ihould live
ill peace and friendlhip with us ; — that all
the otter ikins procured after the completion

I 1

«36

T0YAGE5 TO THK

1788. of the treaty, by either of the contracting
JwwB. chiefs, or their pebple, ftioiild be dlfpofed
of by thcmfelves, and that they were all to
have common accefs to the fhip, where a fair
and equitable market was to be opened for
them without diftin£Hon.

From the jcaloufy which we already knew
to fubliH: between thefe chiefs, we were per-
fedlly fatisfied, as we fmce had convincing
proofs, that, on our entering the territories
of Wicananifti, neither Hanna or Detootche
would be permitted to trade with, or even
pay us a viiit without having obtained a pre-
vious permiliion for that purpofe. We had
not therefore urged or encouraged an inter-
courfe, which, though it would have been
very advantageous to us, might, and moft
probably would have brought on a war be-
tween the refpev'^live fovereigns. This treaty,
therefore, gave us that extenfion of com-
merce which we fo much wift^ed, in the re-
gular courfe of friendly negotiation, and we
were not backward in forwarding the com-
pletion of it.

This treaty, which was managed with all
the addrefs of refined policy, could not be
arranged according to the propofed condi-
tions.

..•^»-*'

'• .iK^imm^

.•*~»M^

I I

on trailing
e difpofed
vere all to
here a fair
opened for

;ady knew
were per-
onvincing
territories
[)etootche
I, or even
led a pre-
We liad
an inter-
na ve been
and moft
L war be-
lls treaty,
of com-
n the re-
I, and we
the com-

with all
I not be
d condi-
tions,

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

tions, without an intrufion on the treafiires
of Wicananilh, to which he knew not how
to fubmlt ; and this was no Icfs than a de-
mand of the copper tea-kettles he fo highly-
valued : but ac the ceiFion of them was made
the governing article of the negotiation, they
were at length, tliou^'-^h reluctantly, configned.
to Hanna and DLtootchc, who immediately
gave up ail the otter Iklns in their pofleflion.
But the chief did not long remain w^ithout
being fully fatisfied by us for the lofs of his
favourite veflels, by our prefenting him with
fuch articles as would make liim ample re-
paration, and which he, probably, had in
view when he made fuch a fiicrifice. We
therefore, amor;^ other things, feletSled fix
brafs hiked fwords, a pair of piftols, and a
mulket, with feveral charges of powder;
and we would even have replaced the trea-
fures 'with which his coffers had been fo

lately enriched, but not a fmgle kettle was
to be found in the Ihip. This prefent was
fent on fhore, and, including the returns to
it, we had now procured an hundred and
fifty fine otter (kins.

At this time a canoe very unexpectedly
arrived from King George's Sound, with a
' prefent

*3f

1788.

■»' .-iSf^'

r^;

228 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. prcfent of fi(h from Maquilla, who hac!
JoMt. been made acquainted with all our motions,
from the time we left his territories. By
the fame opportunity we had the pleafurc
of hearing that our party were well, and
continued to make fpeedy advances towards
the conipletion of the veflbl : as one of the
people, who was rather more intelligent
than the reft, by meafuring a certain num-
ber of fpans, contrived to inform us of the
actual ftateof the little mamatlee^ as he called
her;— by which we underftood that her
floor-ti<i»bers were laid.

The objed of our touching at this port
being now fulfilled, by having procured all
the furs in the pofleffion of Wicananifti, with
fome confiderable fupplies of the fame kind
from Hanna and Detootche, we now pre-
pared to put to fea, to explore the coaft to the
Saturday 38 Southward of this port. On the 28th, the
Ihip was warped out of the inner harbour
over the bar, and, in the evening, the road-
fled was cleared ; when we purfued our
courle along (hore, with a light wefterly
breeze and fine weather.

The harbour of Wicananifh afFords very
fecure ftielter, with good anchorage, both.

ill

) t

( t

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

ill the roads and the inner port. An ar-
•chipelago of iflands feems to extend from
King George's Sound to this place, and ftill
further to the Southward. The channels
between thefe iflands are innumerable ; but
the nectflary occupations of the fliip would
not allow us time to fend out boats for the
purpofe of examining them : — as far, how-
ever, as our obfei'vation extended, we are
difpofed to believe that there is no channel
for (hips but that which we entered, and
which is an exceeding good one.

Thele iflands are covered thick with wood,
with but very few clear fpots, at leaft that
we could difcern. The foil is rich, pro-
ducing wild berries, and other fruit in great
abundance. The timber is of uncommon fize,
as well as beauty, and applicable to any pur-
pofe ; — we faw frequent groves, almoft every
tree of which was fit for mafts of any di-
menfions. Among a great variety of other
trees weobferved the red oak, the larch, the
cedar, and black and white fpruce fir.

In all our commercial tranfii6tions with
thefe people, we were, more or lefs, the
dupes of their cunning : and with fuch pe-
culiar artifice did they fometimes condud:

thena-

239
1788.

Juki.

^jaftiei'**, ■

■ K •-«-)«**••■

t t

.l^j^.' *l

a4o

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. thcmfclves, that all the precaution we could
June, employ, was not fufficicnt to prevent ouf
being over- reached by them. The women,
in particular, would play us a thoufand
tricks, and treat the dil'covery of their fineffe
with an arch kind of phafiintry that baffjed
reproach. — They w^re very fuperior in per-
fonal charms to the ladies of Nootka, and
pofl'tfll'd a degree of modefly which is not
often to be found among the favage nations.
— No entreaty or temptation in our power
could prevail on them to venture on board
the (hip. But their beauty was deflroycd
by tlie filthy application of oil and ochre
and a general hiattcution to that cleanllnefa
which Europeans confider as efl'ential to fe-
male charms. Wc had an opportunity of
feeing an inftancc of their delicacy, which,
from its (ingularlty, may not be thought un-
worthy of a relation. Among other vi-

iitors of the fhip, \ye were one day very
much furprifed by the appearance of a canoe
paddled along by women, and containing
about twenty of that fex, without a fingle
perfon of the other. As we had never feeii
a canoe fo freighted before, it very much
engaged our attention ; aiid, while ws were

coil-

I I

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

contemplating this company of ladies, a
young man leaped fuddenly among them
from another canoe ; at which they were fo
alarmed, that, though they were clad in
their bcft array, they all threw thcmfelves,
in an inflant, into the Tea, and fwam in a
body to the fliore.

The people of Wicananifli are alfo very
fuperior in point of induftry and adivity to
thofc of King George's Sound. At break of
day, without regard to tiie weather, the
village was always empty ; the raen were
employed in killing the whale, hunting the
fea otter, or catching fifli, and the women
were in the woods, gathering berries, or
traverling the fands and rocks in fearch of
Cray and (hell- fi(h.

During our flay here, many ftrangers ar-
rived from the Southern part of the coaft,
on purpofe to vifit us '. but they were not
only forbidden to trade, but to have any
communication with us : to which regula-
tion we thought it prudent to fubmit. Thefc
vifits were very beneficial to Wicananifh,
and raifed his importance with us, as we
found that all thefe people, coming from
various and diflant diftridts, were fubjedt

Vol. I. Q^ to

241

1788.

Jhne.

■vs«i»r ■■•»»:

I J imi^mi .■il**'ft.>l ■

:'r

VOYAGSS.TO THB

1788. to his power. Befides the two villages al-
juNB. ready mentioned, he had f'everal other places
of refidence, to which he occafionally rc-
forted, according to the feafon of the year,
the calls of necelfity, or the invitations of
pleafure. In one of thefe places we reckoned
twenty-fix houfes, each of which was capable
of containing an hundred inhabitiints. In
fhort, fuch was the power and extenfive ter,-
ritory of Wicananifh, that it was very much
our interefl to conciliate his regard and cul-
tivate his friendfhip.

CHAP.

. f /

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 24^

I78S.

CHAP. XIV.

Purfue our Courfe to the Southward along the
Coajl, — Numerous Villages Jeated on the
Shore. "^T^he Inhabitants come off to theSh'ip^
and their Difappointment at our not coming
to an Anchor. — Dijhver the Straits of John
de Fuca. — I'heir Extent and Situaiion.'-^'Ta'
tootche comes on hoard* — Long-boat difpatched
to find an Jl^choragc^ and its Return. — Bad
Behaviourof the Natives. — Purfue our Cour J e
along the Coaft.-^Short Account of the Straits
cfjohn de Fuca, — IJland ofTatootche pajfed,
Pafs numerous Villages. — Dangerous Coajl,
— Violence of the South Raft Storms. — Cape
Flattery, — Village of Clqffet. — Ship enters the i
Bay of ^4ccnhithe. — Savage Appearance of
the Place,-^ See the Village of ^eenuitett.-^
DeJiruSiion IJle, — Danger of the Ship, &c,

Wl^ "ow left Wicananifli, and during
^ ^ the night of the 28th we fleered
Eaft South Eaft, within three leagues of the
land; and. on the morning of the 29th, we Sunday a^
found ourfelves a-bre:;ft of a large Sound,

0^2 from

'm-jk

144

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. from whence w^ faw a number of canoes

Juke, coming out to meet MZ.

The canoes very foon paddled up to us,
and fome of the people came on board. They
' informed us that there were fcveral vil-
lages in the Sound, but all under the jurlf-
didion of Wicananlfli.— As we had reafon
to believe that the chief had drawn all the
furs from this place, we determined to avail
ourfclves of the prefent favourable feafon,
to proceed to the Southward, and to call at
this place o!i our return. The natives em-
( ployed their utmoft perfuafions to keep uif
fometime on their coaft, but on obferving
that the fliip was fleering its courfe beyond
their villages, they took their leave of us
with very evident marks of chagrin and dif-
appointment.

We purfued our courfe to the Eaft South
Eaft along the fliore, at the diflance of three
miles, having crolfed the mouth of the
Sound, which we obferved to be of no great
depth. At noon the latitude was 48° 39'
North, at which time we had a complete
view of an inlet, whofe entrance appeared
very extenfive, bearing Eaft South Eaft,
dlftant about fix leagues. We endeavoured

to.

,:;3S^;

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

245

to keep In with the {here as much as poflible, 1788.
m order to have a perfedt view of the land. ^""*'
This was an objeft of particular anxiety, as
the part of the coaft along which we were
now failing, had not been feen by Captain
Cook ; and we knew of no other navigator
faid to have been this way, except Maurelle;
and his chart, which we now had on board,
convinced us that he had eitlier never {qqw
this part of the coaft, or that he had pur-
pofeJy mifreprefented it.

As we continued our courfe along the
land, we perceived frequent villages on the
Ihore, from whence we were viiiLed by ca-
noes filled with people, who in their per- *

fons and manners very much refembled thofe
of Port Cox. The different villages were in-
dividually anxious to keep the commerce of '{'■
the (hip to themfelves, and that we fhould
come to an anchor off their refpeaive habi-
tations; but as the entire coaft was open to
the fea, even If we had been inclined to in-
dulge their requt ft, it would not have been
in our power. We, however, purchafed {q-
veral fea otter (kins of them, and proceeded
on our courfe. v '^^

-L'^'^mm'-

TtS^i^^iiii^'-*-—. ^-j

-•— **wmiiiMmiiiiii|iii '

246

1788.

JUNl.

VOYAGES TO THE ,

By three o'clock in the afternoon, we
arrived at the entrance of the great inlet
already mentioned, which appeared to be
twelve or fourteen leagues broad. From the
maft-head it was obfe^ved to ftretch to the
Eafl by North, and a clear and unbounded
horizon was (ecu m this diredion as far as
the eye could reach. We frequently found-
ed, but could procure no ground with one
hundred fathoms of line. About five o'clock
we hove to off a fmall idand, fituated about
two miles from the Southern land, that
formed the entrance of this ftrait, near which
we faw a very remarkable rock, that wore
the form of an obelilk, and flood at fome
diftance from the ifland.

In a very {hort time we were furrounded
by canoes filled with people of a much
more favage appearance than any we had hi-
therto feefl. They were principally cloathed
in fea otter Ikins, and had their faces'grimly
bedaubed with»oil and black and red ochre.
Their canoes were large, and held from
twenty to thirty men, who were armed with
bows, and arrows barbed with bone, that
was ragged at the points, and with large
fpegrs pointed with mufcle-fliell,

' We

-*- >

ernoon, we

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

We now made fail to dole in with this
ifland, when we again hove to ahout two
miles from the (hore. The ifland itfelf ap-
pear'=;d to be a barren rock, almoft inac-
ceflible, and of no great extent ; but the
furface of it, as far as we could fee, was
covered with inhabitants, who were gazing
at the Ihip. We could by no means recon-
cile the wild and uncultivated appearance of
the place, with fuch a flourifhing ftate of
population.

The chief of this fpot, whofe name is
Tatootche, did us the favour of a villt, and
fo furly and forbidding a character we had
not yet feen. His face had no variety of
colour on it, like the reft of the people, but
was entirely black, and covered with a glit-
tering fand, which added to the favage fierce-
nefs of his appearance. He informed us that
the power of Wicananifh ended here, and
that we were now within the limits of his
government, which extended a confiderable
way to the Southward. — On receiving this
information, we made him a fmall prefent,
but he did not make us the leaft return, nor
could he be perfuaded to let his people trade
with us. We had, indeed, already received

Q^ fomc

347
1788.

JUMB.

***?^'-;j:'!itt-iM*»( •.

:^«i. gj | | i g^ "^^

24^

1788.

June.

•.A- VOYAGES TO THE

fome account of this chief from Wicananiili,
who advifed us to be on our guard againft
hi I J and liis people, as a fubtle and bar-
barous nation.

It was our defign, if poflihle, to caft an-
chor here, and, with this view, the long-
boat was manned and armed, and lent under
the direction of a proper officer, to iound
between the ifland and the main, in order to
find an anchoring- ground. The flrongefl in-
jun<5lions were given to avoid, ifpofTible,
any difpute with the natives, and a fmall
portion of trading articles was put in the
boat, in cafe the natives (hould be inclined
to. barter.

After the departure of the long-boat for
the fliore, which was followed by all the
canoes, we kept tacking occafionally near
the ifland, which we had now an opportu-
nity of examining with fome degree of mi-
nutencfs ; and, in whatever diie^lion we
beheld it, it appeared .to-be a barren rock,
furroundtd with reefs, on \y hich the fea broke
with great fury. We, -however, had fome
hope that, between it and the main, a place
of fhelter and fecurity might be found, as
the fituatiou would have been very con ve»

\M \H>

rffy-.'*

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

24y

nient, not only for the purpofe of exploring 1788.
the ftrait, b u alfo for the extenfion of our Ju.^s.
particular commerce.

About feven i?i the evening, the long-
boat returned witliout bavingfound anyplace
fit for anchorage, and It viag procured but
very frw furs. The ijland, as the officer
informal us, was not of a deceitful appear-
ance ; it was a folid rock, covered with a little
verdure, and furroundcd by breakers in every
direction. A great crowd of canoes came
off to the boat, filled with armed people,
who behaved in a very diforderly manner;
feveral of whom jumped into the boat, and
took fomc trifluiii; articles away by force,
and then triumphed in their thrfr. Our
people were highly enraged at this conduct,
and fully difpofed to retaliate; — but the
prudence of the officer kept them quiet, who,
being fearful of fome unpleafant event, had
no fooner made the neceflary examination,
than he returned on board.

We were perfeftly convinced that Wica-
nanifh had drawn from this chief a con-
fiderable quantity of his furs, as we obferved
many of our articles about tbem, which
they could not have obtained but from Port

Cox

:^-

■t-'^ltmrm'

— "■-—- . ,.,.

■MMI

'**^''^'**aM

i5<>

VOYAGES TO THE

' I

!'■)

1788. ^^^ ^^ K^"S George's Sound. One of the
jcifH. natives in particular was in pofTeflion of a
complete fet of coat buttons, which was very
familiar to the memory of us all.

Being thus viifappointed in obtaining an
harbour here, we continued our courle to
the Southward, and examined the coaft with
great attention, in expectation of fioding a
place of fecurity, from whence our boats
would be enabled not only to examine this
ftrait, but other confiderable portions of the
' coaft. With this view we made fail about

eight in the evening, and ftood along the
fhore, with pleafant and moderate weather.
^ The ftrongeft curiofity impelled us to en-
ter this ilrait, which we (hall call by the
name of its original difcoverer, John De
Fuca. *

Some accounts of the ftraits of John de
Fuca are handed down to us from the very
rcfpe(Slable authority of Hakluyt and Pur-
chas : the former of whom records the opi-
nion w'nch the minifters of Qiieen I'liza-
beth entertained of its importance. We
had now ocular demonftration of its exift-
ence, — and we are perCuaded, that if Cap-
tain Cook had feen this ftrait, he would

have

it'

\ :

■^ /

"^■■ "Yr :; :"M^""'p'> ^„^T.iSijf .(,'.'» t^ija« v < J li( g- '«' ^*m- ■

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^Ct

have thought it worthy of farther exami- 1788.
nation. — ^Thc circumftances which put it J""*-
out of our power to gratify the ardent defire
we poffefled of executing fuch a defign, will
be faithfully related, as we purfue the nar-
rative of the voyage.— A more particular
detail of this remarkable inlet may already
have been favoured by the reader's attention,
in the introdu<5lo memoir which treats of •
the yet probable exiflencc of a North Weft
paffage.

In the morning of the 30th of June, we^oo'^^yj*
had made no great progrefs from the land,
as it was calm during the greater part of
the night. — The ifland of Tatootche bore
nearly South Eaft, diftant only three leagues.
About ten o'clock a great number of canoes
came from the ifland, in which there could
not be lefs than four hundred men, among
whom we obferved the chief himfelf. They
amufed themfelves in paddling round the
(hip, every part of which, but particularly
the head, they feemed to behold with ex-
treme admiration : indeed, it is more than
probable that the greateft part of them had
never feen fuch a veflei before. We had
been already fo much difpleafed by the con-

dua

'■«-***!!il*!

(

t*'4

« K

^5*

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. du6t of the chief, that we did not think
juNi. proper to invite him on board. The party,
however, gave us a fong, which did not
differ much from that we heard in King
George's Sound. But offended as we might
be with the people, we could not but be
charmed by their mufic. Situated as we
were^ on a wild and unfrequented coaft, in
a diftant corner of the globe, far removed
from all thofe friends, connections, and
circumftances which form the charm and
rr ' ' comfort of life, and taking our courfe, as
it were, through a folitary ocean ; in fuch a
fituation the fmiple melody of nature, pro-
ceeding in perfect unlfon and exa6l mcafur^
from four hundred voices, found its way to
our hearts, and at the (lune moment awa-
kened and bccahncd the painful thought.

About noon, a gentle breeze fprung up,
when we continued our courfe to the South-
ward along the fliore, at about the diftance
of three miles, and the natives of Tatootcfie
returned to their ifland. As we fteered
onwards, canoes continually came off from
the villages, which we obferved from time
to time, on the high banks clofe to the
' fea. The people in the different boats invi-
■ ■.■'.:-' ' .^ ted

P : ;

, .^..^._3«j,iH«jja*D»*aor«. w,Mi*aB..«jfspr'.»-« si- . —

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMKRICA.

ted US in the mod earneft manner, to (leer
in for their refpedlive villages ; hut no means
we employed, and we took fome pains to
cfFe<5l it, could prevail on any of them to
venture on board the (hip.

The appearance of the land was wild in
the extreme, — immenfe forefls covered the
whole of it within our fight, down to the
very beach, which was lofty and cragged,
and againft which the fea dalhed with fear-
ful rage. Tiie fliore was lined with rocks
and rocky iflets, nor could we perceive any
bay or inlet that feemed to proniife the leaft
fecurity to the fmalleft vcflel : and unlefs
there were fome narrow coves, which were
imperceptible to us, we knew not how the
natives could find a flicker, even for their
canoes; yet the villages we faw were neither
inconfiderable in extent or in number. As
we fteered along, the force of Southerly
ftorms was evident to every eye ; large and
extenfive woods being laid flat by their pow-
er, the branches forming one long line to
the North Weft, intermingled with roots
of innumerable trees, which had been torn
from their beds, and helped to mark the
furious courfe of thefe tempefts ; whofe

violence

. 253
1788.

J UN' 4.

\ ■

i ■

iiiTiirH

11*

''.'/

mi\

/IT'

«54

1788.

JVNI.

'voyages to the

violence may be conceived, when we reflect
on the great extent of ocean over which
they blow, without a fingle objedl to impede
their progrefs or break their violence.

About feven in the evening, we had a dif-
tant fight of Cape Flattery, fo named, as it
was firft feen, by Captain Cook. It bore
South Eaft half Eaft, at the diftance of fix
leagues. This head- land is laid down in
the latitude of 48" 5' North, and longitude
235® 3' Eaft of Greenwich. — In our accounts
there was a very Httle difference, but we
are moft willing to place the error on our
fide. VVe had alfo a near view of the vil*
lage of Claflet, which is fituated on an
high and fteep rock clofe to the fea. —
Though this place appeared to be of con-
fiderable extent, one canoe only came off to
us, containing thirty men clad in fkins of
the fea otter.

The coaft from Cape Flattery feemed now
to trend entirely to the Southward ; nor
could we perceive any opening or inlet what-
ever, that promifed to afford us a place of
(helter. As it was ouf defiorn to make a
particular examination of this coaft, the
fliip was hove to at funfet, for the night.

5 This

. t

■■«A*V

I t

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

This part of the coaft was lined with rocks,
and feveral breakers ran off ClaiTet, at about
the diflance of half a mile.

At day-break, we refumed our courfe.
Cape Flattery bearing North North Weft,
having been drifted in the night to the South-
ward. The weather bore a very unfettled
appearance, and it blew ftrong from the Weft
South Weft, which was nearly on the (hore.
At feven, the bay of Queenhithe opened to
our view, which we entered with all thofe
unpleafing fenfations which may be fuppofed
to arife from the reflection, that we were
approaching the place where, and the people
by whom, the crew of the boat belonging
to the Imperial Eagle were maflacred.

As we fteered along the fliore, we ob-
ferved the fmall river and ifland of Queen-
hithe : but it became, on a fudden, fo thick
and gloomy, that the land, which was at
about four miles diftance from us, was
fcarcely difcernible. We faw neither canoes
or inhabitants, and an awful filence reigned
around us-. But though the village of Qiieen-
hithe was obfcured from our view, we could
very plainly difcern the town of Queenui-
tett, which is diftant from it about feven

255

I788,

July.

'luelday &

• • ^i9M*

\ ■/!

156

1788.

JULV.

VOYAGES TO THE

or eight miles. It Is (Ituatcd on an high
perpendicular rock, and is joined by a nar-
row and impregnahle caufcway, twenty feet
in height, to the main land, which is aii
entire tbrcft. With our glafles we obferved
a multitude of houfes fcattered over the face
of the rock. As we advanced, Deftruftion
Ifland was fecn at the diftance of about a
mile, fituatcd in the middle of tlie bay, and
diftant from the main land about two miles:
it is low and flat, and without a fingle tree ;
it however prefented us the rare and plea*
fant fight of a confiderable fpacc covered
with verdure ; and appeared to be furrounded
by breakers, on which an heavy fea rolled,
occafioned by the South Weft wind. In
this pofition we had ten fathoms over a
muddy bottom,

About eleven o'clock the wind veered to
the South Weft, wliich brought thick wea-
ther and rain, and we found ourftlvcs com-
pletely embayed, — a fituation we fliould very
gladly have avoided. An heavy fwell al-
ready rolled into the bay, which promifed to
prevent us very effectually from coming to
anchor, particularly if it blew from the
South Weft quarter, being diredlly on the

land.

i (

■**-

"j-f-"- "■^1 . -■ — *"» r

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

257

i veered to

land, which to the Southward was in fuch i-^gg,
a diredlion, that a South Eaft courfe would july.
not weather any part of it; nor, on the other
tack, could we hope to weather the Wefter-
\y land, on account of the great Weikrly

Avrll.

In this fituatlon we flood, as the better
tack, to the South South Eaft, until noon ;
when, being within half a mile of the flkO'-e,
we were obliged to tack, and ftavd to th*?
Weft North Weft : our iourAiags were fif'
teen and eight fathoms clofc to the land,
which was covered with wood re the wj.ier's
edge. We remarked, how-vcr, that the
beach was not very fteep, nnd here a:.id theic
we oblerved fome bare and faudy pafohes.

We now kept under a prefs of fail, Jis ic
blew very ftrong ; nor dared we even to taka
in a reef of the top-fail ; befidefi, the weather
was fo thick, that we could not fee a mile
a-head of the (hip. We, howevejr, imagined
that we fliould be able to weather Deftruc-
tion Ifland, and continued under this croud
of fail to avoid the danger before us ; when,
at one o'clock, it cleared up for a moroent,
and we faw the ifland a poirt under our lee-
VoL. I. 8L bow,

^k.

-J?^iW3»-

2^8

VOYAGES TO THE

1783. bow, at: the dlflance of a mile and an half,
juLv. an heavy fea drifting us fail m with the
Ihore.

I'liere was now nothing to be done, but
. to call anchor, which we prepared to do
in the wildcft place we ever beheld, — and
where we were morally certain our anchors
, could not hold, though the bottom was mud,

from the ftrong tumbhng in of an heavy fea.
In this fituation, — the diftrefs of which
was not a little enhanced by the reflexion
that we were on a fliore whofe barbarity
our countrymen had already experienced, —
ten minutes muft have decided our fate :
vvlien providentially the wind, on a fudden,
veered to the South South Eaft, which
enabled us to tack and fleer off the (hore
with a flowing fheet, and happy in the pro-
{ped: of procuring an offing before night ; —
for I believe there was not a perfon on
boaj'd the fhip who had not refledled on
the melancholy pofHbihty of his becoming
a vi(ftim to the cannibals of Queenhithe.

^^m\

CHAP.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

CHAP. XV.

Our Progre/s along the CoaJ}. — Di [cover ShoaU
water Bay, which is inaccejfible to ShipSi
' — Natives come off. — T^heir honej} Deali^ig,
— Some y^ccount of them, — JVe ptirfue our
Courfe, — Deception Bay, — Difference he^
tween the SpanifJ: Charts rf MaurcHi and the
real Situation of the Coaft. — Bctiulifid Ap*
pearance of the Country. — Paf ^lichfand
Bay and Cape Lo'.k-out. — Seeuhree remark*
able Rocks,— Clof our Progr if to the SjUth-
ward, — Future Plan of proceeding, - Know-
ledge gained of the Coaf. — Pkirls left unex'
ploredby Captain Cook now "ci filed. — Reafons
for returning to the Northzva*d. — Purfue
our Comfe to the North.— Strait rf jo'ri de
Fuca fen again. — Anchor in Port Effing'
ham. — A Defcription of it, ^c, — Marine
Animals feen^^c,

nr^ H E wretched fate of the people he-
longuig to the Imperial Eagle, evident-
ly predominated in the minds of our crew ;
and being on the very coaft where fuch an
ad of barbarity was committed, the infedi-

R 3 ous

* 259
17S8.

JOLY.

nm^fKiamemm-

26o

VOYAGES TO THE

?0 , '■

>m»':

1788. ous apprehenfion of a fimilar deftru£lion,
July, fpread generally amongfl: them. It was the
common fubjedl of their difcourfe, and had
fuch an influence on their fpirits, as to en-
danger the lofs of the (hip, in a manner
which will be related hereafter.

We continued {landing to fea all the
evening of the firfl: of July, when, at mid-
night, being of opinion that we had fuffi-
cient offing, we wore and flood in again for
the land. At one o'clock in the morning,
the wind veered to the Weft South Weft,
which encouraged us to hope for a fufficient
degree of favourable weather to continue
our examination of the coaft.
Wednefdisyi Qn the moming of the 2d, at feven
o'clock, we again faw the land bearing Eaft,
at the diftance of feven leagues, which we
judged to be a little to the Southward and
Eaft ward of Queen hithe. This land was
very remarkable from its having the appear-
ance of a faddle, and that part of it obtained
the name of Saddle Hill. We computed it
. to be in the latitude of 46° 30' North, and
longitude of 235° 20' Eaft of Greenwich.
, We ftood to clofe in with it, when it appear-
ed to be the Southern moft point we had feen

the

1 1

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA'.

261

the preceding day f'-om Deftru6lion Ifland. 1788.
The wind veered again to the South South Jwly.
Eaft, and at once damped our hopes of fa-
vourable weather. Heavy rain with a thick
fog fucceeded, which obli£ed us to tack and
fland again to fea.

The bad weather continued all this day,
with an heavy fea from the Weftward, that
endangered the long boat, which we had
towed aftern ever lince our departure from
King George's Sound. It was, therefore,
impoffible for us to encounter the land with-
out running into extreme danger. Belides,
the moon was now near its change, a period
which, according to our obfervations, never
failed iij thefe feas to bring bad weather
along with it. We therefore carried a prefs
of fail, to obtain a good diftance from the
land ; which was, at this time, an obje<St
of no common confequence.

On the 3d at noon, we had a glimpfe of Thiufday 3
the fun, and the latitude was 47° 46' North,
The wind fhifted to the South Weft, on
which we tacked and ftood to the South
South Eaft, immediately in for the land.
We now were at about the diftance of twenty
leagues from Cape Flattery.

R 3 During

»^

'11 ■["•^iitiW'-'r' — '

!T-^tifSsTKT:^

rm ,0kM m itm n%> i-"*^-*

■ 26z

1788.

July.

Friday 4

Sanirda-

VOYAGES TO THE

During the night the weather was mode-
rate and clear, and on the 4th the wind
lliifted to the South Eaft ; when we agam
tacked and flood to the Eaft North Eaft,
in order to near the land. We ftood thus
till fix o'clock in the evening, when the
land was {een bearing from North to North
Eaft. In the Northern quarter it was of a
great height, and covered with fnow. This
mountain, from its /ery confpicuous fitu-
ation, and in^menfe height, obtained the
name of Mount Olympus. We computed
it to be in the latitude of 47° 10' North, and
longitude 235° Eaft of Greenwich, Jn the
Korth Eaft It ftretched itfelf cut to a print,
Vi'fiich we judged to be in the latitude of
47° 20' North. We kept ftanding hi for
the land, during the night, with a light
brerze from the South Eaft ; and at fun- rife
on the 5th, it borv.- from North l>y Weft, to
Eaft by North, ourdiftance off' fhore being

I : lej'iues : fo that hi the nigRt we had been
afi. c'tcd by a confid' rable current, which
had Lt us from 'Xiie land. . : . -.

. ,At noon thv jaritude^was 47® i' North,
and the lofty mountains feen on the prt-
cediiig (}u\y, Lore Eafl North Eaft, diftant

" .: ,. • r : feven

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

263

feven leagues. — Our diftance might he four 1*^88.
leagues from the fliore, which appeared to July.
run in the direftlon of Eaft South Eafl,
and Weft North Weft, and there appeared
to he a large found or openhig in this di-
redlion.

By two o'clock, we were within two miles
of the (hore, along which we failed, which
appeared to be a perfe6t foreft, without the
veftigeof an habitation. The land was low
and flat, and our foundings were from fif-
teen to twenty fathoms over an hard land.
As we were fteerhig for the low point which
formed one part of the entrance into the
bay or found, we flioaled our water gradually
to fix fathoms, when breakers were fcen to
extend in a diredion quite acrofs it, fo that
it appeared to be inaccefllble to fnips. We
immediately hauled off the fliore until we ' '
deepened our water to {Ixteen fathoms. Tliis '
point obtained the name of Low Point, and
the bay that of Shoal-water Bay ; and an
head-Lmd that was high and bluiF, v/hich
formed the other entrance, was alio named
Cape Shoal water. The head-land wc judg-
ed to be in the latitude of 46" 4y' North, •

.R 4 and

ru i p iwi I i i i.«w..-,.i— .

264

VOYAGES TO THE

.it

1788. and the longitude 235° 11' Eaft of Green-

juLY. wich.

The diftance from Low Point to Cape
Shoal-water was too great to admit of an
obfervation in our prefent fituation. The
fhoals ftill appeared to run from Ihore to
fliore ; but when we were about midway,
we again bore up near them, in order to
difcover if there might not be a channel
near the cape : we accordingly fleered in for
the mouth of the bay, when we flioaled our
water to eight fathoms. At this time the
breakers were not more than three miles
from us, and appeared to extend to Cape
Shoal- water, when it was thought prudent
again to haul off. From the maft-head it
was obferved that this bay extended a con-
Uderable way inland, fp reading into fever al
arms or branches to the Northward and
Eaft ward. The back of it was bounded by
high and mountainous land, which was at
a great di ft an ce from us. A narrow entrance
appeared to the North Weft, but it was too
remote for us to difcover, even withglaflbs,
whether it was a river or low land.

We had concluded that this wild and de-
folate fhore was without inhabitants, but

this

-,*^.,*1-

fl: of Green-

int to Cape
admit of an
ation. The
Dm Ihore to
)ut midway,
in order to
i a channel
fleered in for
; fhoaJed our
his time the
three miles
nd to Cape
gilt prudent
nnft-head it
tided a con-
into feveral
thward and
bounded by
lich was at
ow entrance
t it was too
^ith glafles,
nd.

i^ild and de-
bitants, but
this

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

this opinion proved to be erroneous ; for a
canoe now came off to us from the point,
with a man and boy. On their approach to
the fliip, they held up two fea otter (kins;
we therefore hove to, when they came along-
fide and took hold of a rope, but could not
be perfuaded to come on board. We then
faftened feveral trifling articles to a cord,
and threw them over the fide of the (hip,
when they were inftantly and eagerly feized
by the boy, and delivered by him to the
man ; who did not hefitate a moment to tie
the two otter Ikins to the cord, and waved
his hand as a fign for us to take them on
board, — which was accordingly done, and
an additional prefent immediately conveyed
to him in the (iime manner as the former.

Thefe ftrangers appeared to be highly de-
lighted with their unexpected treafurc, and
feemed, at firft, to be wholly abforbed in
their attention to the articles which com-
pofed it ; but their curio(ity was in a (hort
time entirely transferred to the (hip, and
their eyes ran over every part of it with
a moft rapid traniition, while their actions
exprelTed fuch extreme admiration and afto-
ni(hment, as gaVe us every reafon to con-
clude

z6$

1788,

July.

■i

'. J'

s66

VOYAGES TO THE

I' 'F! 1

17S8. clnde that this was the firft time they had
July, ever been gratified with the fight of fuch an
object.

We endeavoured to make oiirfelves intel-
ligible, by addrefling them in the language
' ' of King George's Sound, which we had
found to prevail from thence to the diftrifl
of Tatootclie ; but they did not comprehend
a word we uttered, and replied to us in a
language which bore not the leaft refem-
blance or affinity, as far as we could form a
judgment, to any tongue that we had heard
on the coaft of America. r?i.r

On a particular infpeflion, we obferved
that the tafhion of their canoes differed from
thofc of their more Northern neighbours.
In their perfons and cloaths, indeed, they
refembled the people of Nootka ; but we
' obferved no ornaments about them which
could lead us to fnppofe that they had ever
before communicated wifih^Europeans : ne-
verthelefs, their firft holding up the otter
Ikins, and the manner in which they con-
duced themfelves afterwards, plainly proves
that they had an idea of trade : indeed, it is
more than probable that fome of the natives
pf Tatootche's diflrid may have occafionally
, > ■. roamed

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,

26*^

roamed thus tar, and communicated the 1788.
intelligence of fTrangers arriving in (hips to Jw^t.
trade for furs. But there is every reafon to
believe that thcfe people are of a different
and diftindl nation from thofe of King
George's Sound, Port Cox, and Tatootche ;
nor is it improbable but that this very fpot
might be the extreme boundary of their dif-
tri6t on the North. In this perfualion we
became doubly anxious to find fome place
of (helter, — fome harbour or port where the
(hip could remain in fafety, while the boats
j might be employed in exploring this part of
the coaft.

During the time we had been lying to for
thefe natives, the fhip had drifted bodily
down to the (hoals, which obliged us to
make fail, — when the canoe paddled into , *
the bay. It was our wi{h to have fent the
long-boat to found near the flioals, in order
to difcover if there was any ciiannel ; but
the -weather was fo cloudy, and, altogether,
had fo unfettled an appearance, that we were
difcouraged from executing fuch a dellgn. — •
Nothing, therefore, was left for us but to
coaft it along the fliore, and endeavour to
...,.., find' ■ -

i'l

"«%-'-

268

VOYAGES TO THE

M ar

1788, find feme place where the (hip might be

July, brought to a fecure anchorage.

We therefore conthiucd our courfe ; and,
by feven o'clock, we were at no great cHftance
from Cape Shoal-water, when we again had
a clear and diftin6l view of the bay and
flioals. — Our depth of water was fixteeu
fathoms, over a fandy bottom, and the land
extended to the Eaft South Eaft, from the
Cape, from which we were diftant three
, leagues. The land to the Southward made
like iflands, but that circumf^ance was at-
tributed to the fog, which now came thick
upon us. As night came on the fliip was
hauled off (hore and hove to, to await the
return of day- light.

The morning of the 6th was Very' un-
favourable to the buiinefs of making dif-
coveries ; -the wind veered to the North,
and blew very ftrong,. with a great fea ; —
Cape Shoal- water bore Eaft by North fix
leagues ; and the land was every where co-
vered with a thick mift ; we therefore did
not bear up till nine o'clock, when the
mift cleared from off the land.— As we ap-
proached it our foundings were very regu-
lar, from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a
. , I fandy

Sunday 6

■'^•'•'ii

* I

) ^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

259

IS, over a

fandy bottom. — At half paft ten, being with- 1 788,
in three leagues of Cape Shoal-water, we Jw^t.
had a pcrfed view of it ; and, with the
glaffes, we traced the line of coaft to the
Southward, which prefented no opening
that promifed aiiy thing like an harbour.—
An high, bluff promontory bore off us South
Eaft, at the diftance of only four leagues,
for which we fteercd to double, with the
hope that between it and Cape Shoal-water,
we (hould find feme fort of harbour.—
We now difcovercd didant land beyond this
promontory, and we pleafed ourfelves with
the expe<ftation of its being Cape Saint Roc
of the Spaniards, near which they are faid to
have found a good port. .

By half paft eleven we doubled this cape,
at the diftance of three miles, having a j
clear and perfed view of the Ihore in every
part, on which we did not difcern a living
creature, or the leaft trace of habitable life.
A prodigious Eafterly fwell rolled on the
(hore, and the foundings gradually decreafed
from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a hard,
fandy bottom. After we had grounded the
promontory, a large bay, as we had ima-
gined, opened to our view, that bore a very

pro-

i {■

\ ,. i\

I: '/I

^•msfMimmiK

^7©

VOYAGES TO THfi

\9\

•^

1783. promJUng nppearance, and into which we
jw4r. ftccred witlj every encouraging expetSlation.
The lilgh land that formed the boundaries
of the bny, was at a great diftance, and a
flat level country occupied the intervening
fpacc : the bay itfelf took rather a wcfterly
dirc«5llon. As we fteercd in, the water
Ihoaled to nine, eight, and feven fathoms,
wlien breakers were fcen from the deck,
right a-head ; and, from the maft-head, they
were obferved to extend acrofs the bay.—
We therefore hauled out, and directed our
courfe to the oppofite fhore, to fee if there
was any chaimel, or if we could difcover any
port.

'I'he name of Cape Difappointment was
given to the promontory, and the bay ob-
tained the title of Deception Bay. By an
indltfcrcnt meridian obfervation, it lies in
the latitude of 46^ 10' North, and in the
computed longitude of 235" 34' Eaft. We
can now with fafqty alTert, that no fuch
river as that of Saint Roc exifts, as laid
down in the Spanifli charts : to thofe of
Alaurelle we made continual reference, but
without deriving any information or alfift-
aace from them.

3 ^^^

■|

''**■** ;^»r-~ " '''*''—''»«^** «*j«a.'ffl'»MWf«i n ■"*'"■*

I I

^•ORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

271

We now reached the oppofite fulc of the 1788,
bay, where difappouitment conthiued to ac- Jui-r.
company us ; and being almofl certain that
there we fliould obtain no place of /heltcr for
the rtiip, we bore up for a diltnnt head-hmd,
keeping our courfe within two miles of the
fhore. . •

Tiie face of the country, however, alTu-
med a very different appearance from that
of the Northern coaft. Many beautiful
fpots, covered with the finefl verdure, fo-
licitcd our attention ; and the land rofe in
a very gradual afcent to the difkant moun-
tains, Ikirted by a white, (lindy bench down
to the lea. As we failed along, fpacious
lawns and hanging-woods everywhere met
the delighted eye, — but not an human bchig
appeared to inhabit the fertile country of
New Albion.

As we thus purfued our courfe along the
ihore, obferving every part of it with the
mod minute attention, a large opening ap-
peared a-head, which once more animated
our hopes, and formed a new fource of dlf-
appointment. In the offing it blew very
ftrong, and a great wefterly fwell tumbled .
in on the land. By feven o'clock we were

a-breaft

■ n

'iRBttWpi-'XP*'

%17

1788.
July.

VOYAGESTOTHE

a-brcaftof this opening, the mouth of which,
to our great mortification, was entirely
clofed by a low, fandy beach, nearly level
with the fea, which appeared to flow over
it, and form an extenfive back-water : —
beyond it an open champaign country ex-
tended to a confiderable diitance, where it
was confined by a boundary of lofty moun-
tains.

The bay was named by us Qiiickfand
Bay, and an adjoining headland Cape Gren-
ville ; — the diftant Southerly head-land,
we called Cape Look-out. This cape is
very high and bluff, and terminaces ab-
ruptly in the fea. At about the diflance
of two miles from it there rofe three large
rocks, which were very remarkable, from
the great refemblance they bore to each
other. — ^The middle one has an archway,
perforated, as it were, in its centre, through
which we very plainly difcovered the dif-
tant fea. — They more particularly attra<Sted
our notice, as we had not obferved between
King George's Sound and this place, any
rocks fo confpicuoufly fituated from the
land : —their diftance from each other might

1 1.

uth of which,
was entirely

nearly level

to flow over
ack-water : —

country ex-
ice, where it

lofty moun-

is Quickfand
d Cape Gren-
y head-land,
This cape is
jrminrites ab-

the diftance
fe three large
rkable, from
3ore to each
an archway,
itre, through
red the dif-
irly attradled

ved between
s place, any

1 from the

other might
be

^ North west coast of America.

be about a quarter of a mile, and we gave
them the name of tiie Three Brothers.

By eight in the evening we were within
three leagues of Cape Look-out, which we
judge to lie in the latitude of 45° 30' North,
and in the longitude of 235° 50' Eaft of
Greenwich. We were now convinced that
there was no opening betv.'een the Cape
and Quickfand Bay.

As we had met with nothing but dif-
couragement, we here gave up all further
purfuit, and clofed our progrcfs to the South-
ward : — we therefore hauled our wine', iu
order to proceed again to the Northward.

It was our intention to take our courfc to
the great bay or found Vv'hich \vc had paflcd
the day after our departure from Port Cox,
and from whence a large company of the
natives came off to us. This bay liad, in-
deed, been already vifitcd by the (hip Im-
perial Eagle, where we had found a fecure
anchorage : from thence wc propoCd to
fend the lonc'.-boar, in order to explore the
ft raits, and to afccrtain whether the inhabi-
tants were a people diftin^l from thofe of
Nootka Sound.
Vol. I. S We

273

1788.

July.

2/4

VOYAGES TO THE

i*-88, ^^e had now obtained no inconfiderable
July, knowledge of the coaft of America, from
King George's Sound to Cape Look-out :
that is, from the latitude of 45° 37' North,
to the latitude of 49° '2>i North. — We had
not only traced every part of a coaft which
unfavourable weather had prevented Captain
Cook from approaching, but had alfo afcer-
tained the real exiftence of the Strait of
John de Fuca, which now renewed its claim
to our attention. We moft anxioufly wifhed
to have continued our inquilitive courfe to
the Southward, as far, at leaft, as latitude
42°, where it is faid Captain Caxon found a
good harbour ; but the feafon was already fo
much advanced, that had we gone fo far to
the Southward, we (hould not have been
able to return to Kuig Cileorge's Sound be-
fore the equinodllal gales fet in ; — a feafon
to be dreadc^d on this coaft, more efpecially
when we knew of no harbour where we
could take refure an;:unft the violence of it :
Befides, v/e v/ere iniUienced by a very natural
anxiety concernhig the party we had left at
Nootka : — tl^-y might have been in want of
our afiiftance, and various circumftances
might iiave arifcn, v/hich would render our

return

i I

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

return of importance to them, at leaft be-
fore the month of September : — Bcfides, if
we had purfued our courfe to the South-
ward, we fhould have been altogether pre-
vented from examining the ftrait ; as the
bad weather which we had every reafon to
believe we (hould experience on our return,
might, and in ail probability would, prolong
the courfe of it to the middle of Auguft. —
As it was, we feldom enjoyed a fucceflion
of three days without either fog or rain.

The equinodlial gales blow with great
fury on the coafl: of America, and generally
fet in from the loth to the 15th of Sep-
tember, We were therefore apprehenfive
that they might drive us off the coaft, and
force us, perhaps, to fteer to the Sandwich
Iflands, and, of courfe, to leave the party
at Nootka in a Htuation of difficulty and
danger.

Such were the reafons which determined
us to return to the North, and to keep King
George's Sound open, at all events, let tlie
Windsor weather be what they might. This
meafure was alfo eflentially ncceflhry, as it
was already agreed that on the 20th of S:."p-
tember one of the fliips (hould leave the

S 2 Anic-

27i
178S.

July.

•«

j,«5 VOYAGESTOTHE

1 788. American coaft on her return to China ; but
July, before this part of our expedition could be
put in execution, the new veffel was to be
launched and equipped for fea, and near
three thoufand fathoms of cordage manu-
taiStured, — a bufinefs which would employ
a more numerous crew than our fhip con-
tained.

Monday 7 At fun-rife of the 7th, Cape Look-out was
fecn, bearing EaO. by South, at the diftance
of twelve leagues. Our latitude at noon was
45° 12' North, and the variation of the com-
pafs only 16" lo'Eaft.
Thurfday 10 It was the 1 0th of July before wc again
» made the land, when at noon we difcerned
the high land forming the Eaftern (hore in
the Straits of de Fuca ; and, at fun-fet, we
faw the Eafteriimoil: head-land of the large
found near Port Cox, which obtained from
us the name of Cape Beale : this head-land
bore North by Eafi:, dirtant ten leagues* —
The variation of the ccrnpafs was here iS** 30'
Eaft.

friday II On the iith^ in the morning, we w^ere
off the mouth of this found, which appeared
extenfive, but of no great depth. Several
iflands were placed nearly in the middle of

it.

( <

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

277

it, which were rather high, and well wooded, 1788.
The long-boat was lent to find the anchor- July.
ing-ground, and, about eleven o'clock, (he
returned to pilot us into a fine fpacious
port, formed by a number of iflands, where
we anchored in eicht fathoms water, over
a muddy bottom, and fecurely fheltered from
wind and fea. A large number of natives
immediately came off in their canoes, and
brought abundance of fifh ; among v/hich
were falmon, trout, cray, and other (hell-
fifh, with plenty of wild berries and onions.
Thefe peopli^i belonged to a large village,
fltuated on the fummit of a very high hill.
This port we named Port Effingham, in ho-
nour of the noble Lord of that title.

On the 1 2th, the fails and running rigging Saturday la
were unbent, a party of waterers were fent
on fhore, and the reft of the crew were
employed about the ueceflary duty of the
fliip.

This found had been vifited by Captain
Barclay, of the Imperial Eagle, in the year
1787, who named it Barclay Sound. Tlie
found itfelf is very extenfive, and contains
feveral fcattered iflands, entirely covered
with wood. On the main land there are

■^
J

large

^^■,Jil^~^

„..— fe%^-»rf «*•<?«j»f*^.■■-C.'^';^i*'

)

278

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. large and populous villages, well watered

July, by rivulcts, where great numbers of falmou

are taken, which, when properly prepared,

conftitute a principal part of their winter's

food. <

. The port is fufficiently capacious to con-
tain an hundred fail of (hips, — and fo fortu-
nately (heltered as to fscure them from any
florm. — The anchorage is alfo good, being
a foft mud, and the watering place perfectly
convenient.

In our paflkge from Ci'pe Look-out to
Port Effingham, we faw numbers of fea ot-
ters playing in the water with their young
ones ; but at the fhip's approach they quick-
ly difappeared. Once or twice we pafled
within a few yards of fome of them, as they
were fleeping on their backs in the fea. —
At firft we took them for pieces of drift-
wood, till, on being awakened be the noife
.of the fliip, they iiidantly dived away. We
alfo faw many whales of the fpermaceti
kind, and feals without number, befides other
huge marine animals.

CHAP.

■ -g^rS!$>-^'

''-U>i^j,_.^^ .#*- ■•

^.-^......-..-.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

CHAP. XVI.

279

178S.

JULV.

Take pojelfion of the Straits of de Fuca in the
"Name of the King of Great Britain. — Vifiled
by the Natives.— Pkafant Situation cf the
Ship. — Long-boat equipped and fent on an Ex-
pedition, — I'he ObjeSt of it. — Strangers re fort
to the Ship. — Anxiety on Account of the Long-
boat , which at length arrives. — Reafn of her
quick Return. — Conflict wiih the Natives of
the Straits of de Fuca, and the Confeiiuences
of it. — Valour of th'fe People. — T!he dan-
gerous Situation of the Boat and Crew, — .
Diftance advanced up the Straits of de Fuca.
^^Pojtiion cf them. — Human Heads offered
to fale. — Damp throivn on the Spirits of the
Crew. — Prepare for Sea. — Leave Port Lf--
fngham. — An Account of the Port and Sound,
— Progrefs of the new Fe/fel, tic. — Succejs.
in collecting Furs. — Attention of Maquilla^

'T may not be improper to mention that
we took pofleflion of the ftralts of John
do Fuca, m the name of the King of Bri-
tain, with the forms that had been adopted
^v '^receding navigators on fimilar occafions.

S 4 On

Hi '\^ i^

¥m Ik f

k1^

1 9

280

1788.

JULV.

VOYAGES TO THE

On the 13th of July, a confiderable num«
ber of natives vifited the fhip in this fla-
tion, from whom we purchafed fur=i of va-
rious kinds. — liut it was obfcrvcd by us,
that they were not accompanied by their
chiefs, or indeed any perfon of authority
amongft them. They alfo brought us great
plenty of fuJmon, which, in dehcacy of fla-
vour, far exceeded that of Nootka Sound,
with large quantities of fliell-fifh, and the
rcfrefliing as well as falutary provifion of
wild onions, and fruits of their woods;
with which nature had kindly furniflied
every part of the coaft where we had any
communication with the natives of it.

It was now the height of fummer, the
weather was warm and pleafant ; and we
very fenfibly enjoyed the benign influence of
the delightful feafon. Not a fingle patch
of fnow was vifiblc on thefummits of the
lofty mountains which fiirroundedthe found.
We could not, therefore, but derive a moft
rcfrefhing fatisfidion from our temporary
r^'pofe in this caliTi and charming fituation.

We embraced the prefent favourable op-
portunity to difpatch tlie long boat, not only
to explore the flraits of de Fuca, but to pro-

<:ure.

1 1

; /

limmer, tlie

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

cure, if poflible, fome knowledge of the peo-
ple of Shoal water- Bay. She was, therefore,
properly equipped for the occafion, was man-
ned with thirteen of our people, and fur-
ni(hed with provifions for a month. The
command of her was given to Mr. Robert
Duffin, our firfl officer, to whom written
inftru6llons were delivered, by which he
was to govern himfelf in the conduct of this
little expedition. — On the 13th, the boat
departed on its voyage of difcovery.

The crew employed on this occafion,
added to the party we had fpared for the fer-
vice of King George's Sound, had fo di-
minished our (hip*'- company, that it be-
came abfolutely neceflary for us toputour-
felves in the beft poffible ftate of prepara-
tion, in cafe our prefent neighbours, who are
a numerous, bold, and powerful people,
fliould be tempted by a knowledge of our
weaknefs to make an attack. All 'the guns
were therefore mounted ; the arms got ready
for fervice, and orders ifl'ued that none of
the natives (hould, on any pretence whatever,
be fufFered to come on board the (hip.

Immediately after the departure of the
long-boat, a coafiderable number of canoes

3 from

.2i

;.(

1788.
July.

*^ :'

•

.,f, ....

• i

282

VOYAGES TO THE

\l'

1788. from the Northward, came along- fide us,
July, fg^y^ if jjj^y^ Qf ^yhich contained lefs than
tliirty men, and many of them more, befides
ivomen and children. Among our vifitors
we recolle(5led the faces of feveral whom
we had already feen at Port Cox, of which
place they were inhabitants. The others
were natives of the Weflern (hore which
flretches down to the ftraits, and which
forms a part of the extenfive territories of
Wicananifli. That prince, it feemed, had
lately given a fplendid feaft to a large num-
ber of his principal fubjedls ; and from the
great quantity of thofe articles he had re-
ceived from us, which we now perceived
among them, there was every reafon to fup-
pole that he had added to the fplendour of
his banquet, by dividing his treafures among
thofe who had the honour of being invited
to it.
Satirdayao Nothing material occurred till the 20th:
the weather continued to be extremely fine,
and our communication with the natives was
on terms of reciprocal good underftanding.
They daily reforted to us with furs, fifli and
vegetables, and fometimes an occafionalpre-
fent of very fine venifon added its luxury to

the

I '

I I

NORTH WEST COAST OF ATMEPxICA.

283

f LY,

the common pljtity of our tabic. But In 1788.
our prefcnt (late of ina^flivlty, the fituation J"'
of the lon^';-boat was continually prcffing
home upon our minds with the hopes of fuc-
cefs, or the fears of calamity. The (^ivagc
nature of the people who inhabited the parts
which our friends were gone to explore, ope-
rated to alarm the one ; at the fame time
that our confidence in their (kill, courage,
and good conducl, animated the other. —
While, however, our imaginations were fol-
lowing them in their voyage, with the mofl:
affectionate folicltude, they were on the
verge of deftrudion, and threatened with
iharing the abhorrent fate of their country-
men who were devoured by the cannibals of
Qiieenhithc.

On the evening of the 20th, we faw the
fails of the long-boat in the offing ; but the
fuddcn iinpulfe of our unreflecSting joy on
the occafion, was immediately checked by
the apprehcnlions that naturally arofe in
our minds from her early return. The in-
terval of her arrival at the ftiip was a period
of very painful fufpenfe to every one on
board : at length, to our inexpreflible fatis-
|ii»fl:ion, we obfcrved, on her coming along-

fide,

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1788.

July.

V'^>

' (

VOYAGES TO THE

fide, that not an individual was miiHng —
Our immediate attention, however, was cal-
led to the affiftanceof Ibme wounded men,
who had fuffered feverely in a very violent
confli<5t the boat had fuflained with the na-
tives of the ftraits, and which was the caufe
of her fudden return.

The whole attention of the (hip was now
transferred to our wounded people ; but
though feveral of them were much hurt,
we were confoled with findhig that no mor-
tal injury had been received by any. The
officer was wounded by a barbed arrow in
the head, which would have killed him on
the fpot, if a thick hat had not deadened
the force of the weapon. One of the fea-
men was pierced in the breaft, and another
in the calf of the leg, into which the arrow
had entered fo far as to render a very large
incifion abfolutely neceflary, in order to
difcharge it. A fourth received a wound
very near the heart, but the weapon which
gave it, very fortunately fell (hort of the
vital parts. The reft of the people were
bruifed in a terrible manner by the ftones
and clubs of the enemy ; even the boat it-
felf was pierced in a thoufand places by ar-
rows.

V4j

»■

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

^ss

rows, many of which remained in the awning , -53^
that covered the hack part of it ; and which, Jwlt.
by receiving the arrows, and breaking the
fall of large ftones thrown from flings, in
a g^at meafure faved our party from inevi-
table deftrudtion.

In this engagement the natives behaved
with a fpirit and refolution that reiifted the
ufual terror of fire-arms among a fiivage
people ; for the conteft was clofe, and for
fome time our men fought for their lives. — -
One of them had been fingled out by an in-
dividual favage for his vidim, and a fierce
engagement took place between them. — ^The
native was armed with a ftone bludgeon,
and the failor with a cutlafs. They both
nianifefted, for fome time, equal courage and
dexterity ; but if an intervening oar had
not broke a blow, armed with all the force
of his enemy, our brave countryman muft
have funk beneath it. It however failed
of its object, and gave him an opportunity,
by a fevere flroke of the cutlafs, to deprive
the native of an arm, who, notvvithftand-
ing fuch a lofs, and feveral other wounds,
contrived to fwim from the boat, indebted
for his life to the noble mercy of his con-

«j[uerorj

'•;

286

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. qucror, who dirdalncd to kill him In the

juLv. water.
' The feaman who was wounded in the leg,

continued, duiing the adion, with the arrow
in his flefh : and without attempting to
rid hlmfelf of the torturing weapon, became,
by his courageous and a(flive exertions, a
very principal inftrument in preferving the
boat. , ,

Though we had never had any intercourfe
or communication with the inhabitants of
the ftraits, we had indulged ourfelves with
' the hope that our friendly conduct towards
their neighbours, might, by fome means,
have reached the diftrid of their habitation,
and given them favourable impreflions of
us : but their conduct marked the moft fa-
vage and bloody hoftility ; and the fury of
their onfet compelled a fimilar fpirit of re-
iiftance : but to do juftice to the humanity
of our people, — notwithftanding the actual
fufferings of many of them, and the cruel
fate which they well knew would have been
the certain allotment of them all, had they
loft the day, — they never failed, in recoun-
ting the circumftances of it, to exprefs an
unfeigned concern for the unhappy people

who

■I

f \

him in the

1 in tlie leg,
:h the arrow
;mpting to
on, became,
exertions, a
cferving the

' intercourfe
labitants of
felves with
ucl towards
)me means,
■ habitation,
preflions of
:he moft fa-
the fury of
fpirit of re-
le humanity
; the adual
id the cruel
id have been
,11, had they
in recoun-
) exprefs an
ippy people
who

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

287

who had fo raflily courted their own deftruc- 1 788.
tion. • July.

The attack was begun by the favages,—
who boarded the boat, with the defign of
taking her, in two canoes, containing be-
tween forty and fifty men, who were moft
probably fome of their choiceft warriors.
Several other canoes alio remained at afmall
diftance, to allift in the attempt; and the
fliore was every where lined with people,
who difchargcd at ourveflel continual fhow-
ers of ftones and arrows. A cliief in one of
the canoes, who encouraged the advnnc': of
the others, was moft fortunately fliot in
the head with a fingle ball, while in the
very a£l of throwing a fpear of a moft
enormous length at the cockfwain This
circumftance caufed the canoes to draw back, l
and deprived the natives who were already
engaged, of that fupport vvhich muft have

enfured them the viftory. Indeed, as it

was, when we confider that the boat's com-
pany confifted only of thirteen men, who
were attacked with the moft courageous
fury by fuperior numbers, and galled as
thefe were, at the fame moment, by the
numerous weapons conftantly difcharged

from

■y^ (i

ii88

VOYAGES TO THE

ft .

1788. from the (bore, their efcape is to be num-

JvtT. bered among thofe favourable events of life,

which Dever fail to excite, in well ordered

minds, a mingled fenfation of gratitude and

aftonifhment.

The boat had advanced a confiderable way
up the Straits of de Fuca, and had entered
a bay or harbour; when, as our people
were preparing to land, for the purpofe of
examining it, they were attacked by the na-
tives, as has been juft related ; and, of
courfe, efFedually obftrufted in the purfuit .
of their original defign. From this ftation,
however, they obferved, that the ftraits to
the Eaft North Eafl: appeared to be of great
. extent, and to encreafe rather than diminifh.
As they returned down the ft raits, they
were met by a fmall canoe paddled by two
men, who were the fubjeds of Wicananifli,
and from whom they purchafed fome fifti.
But words cannot exprefs the furprife and
abhorrence of our people, when thefe fa-
vages held up two human heads, but juft
cut off, and ftill ftreaming with blood, by
way of offering them to fale. They held
thefe deteftable obje6ls by the hair with
' an air of triumph and exultation : and, when

• the

^■|

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

289

the crew of the boat difcovered (igns of i^SS.
difguil and dctedation at fuch an horrid Jvtv*
fpedacle, the favages, in a tone, and with *

looks of extreme fatisfadtion, informed them,
that they were the heads of two people be-
longing to Tatootche, whom they had mur-
dered, as that chief had lately declared war
againft Wicananifh. This circumflance
threw a damp upon the fpirits of the Crew,
which continued, more or lefs, through the
whole of the voyage.

Though the boat had not fucceeded in
the principal objeft of our expedition, yet
it did not return without being able to com-
municate fome knowledge of the {^raits of
de Fuca. She had failed near thirty leagues
up the {Irait, and at that diflance from the
fea it was about fifteen leagues broad, with
a clear horizon flretching to the £aft for
1 5 , leagues more. — Such an extraordinary
circumflance filled us with flrange conjec-
tures as to the extremity of this ftrait, which
we concluded, at all events, could not be at
any great diftance from Hudfon's Bay:—
An opinion which is confidered at large in
the Introdudtion to thefe volumes.

Vol. I. T We

^gQ VOYAGESTOTHE

1783. ^^ were now obliged to give up all hope
July, of obtaining any further fatisfadlion con-
cerning the extent of the ftraits, or of the
particulars of Shoalwater Bay, at leaft for
this feafon. We therefore prepared to return
with all poflible expedition to join our party
m King Geori'e's Sound.
Monday II On the 2 1 ft, we put to fea with the tide
of ebb, and by noon we were entirely clear
of the Sound. Our latitude was 48° 41'
North, and Port Effingham bore North
Weft by North, at the diftance of five nniles.

During our ftay in this port, we were
vifited by a great variety of people, who
refided at differejit places between Port Cox
and the ifland of Tatootche. But none of
thofe who inhabit the country up the ftrait
ventured to approach us : perhaps the fear
of Tatootche, whofe Ifland is fituated it the
very entrance, and is faid to contain near
five thoufand people, might prevent them
from coming to the (hip.

In this ftation we procured a confidcrable

quantity of very fine fea-otter (kins, with

abundance of fi(h, confifting of falmon,

' halibut, herrings, fardonies, cod, trout, and

rock-fifli. We were alfo furni(hed with a

COH'

( I

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

291

continual fupply of vegetables and fruits 1^88.
of the woods ; particularly a kind of wild Ji-lt.
currant, which grows on trees of a tolerable
(ize.

The found is, by no means, fo extenfive
as that of Nootka. It affords, however,
feveral places of (heltcr, but none of them
are fo commodious as Port Effingham, which
is entirely fecure from all winds. The coaft
every where abounds with timber for fliip-
building, and which would form the fineft
mafts and fpars in the world.

During the whole of the 22d the wind Tucfjay xa
blew from the Weft North Weft, with
which we ftood to fea to the South Weft,
till noon of the 23d, when the latitude wasvvcduefdayij

48° 36' North. At this time we had made

fo confiderable an offing that we loft fight of
land ; when, at three in the afternoon, the
wind veering to the South Weft, we tacked
and ftood to the Weft North Weft, \i make
the land.

In the morning of the 24th, the wind Tiuirfdaya*
ftiifted to the Southward, which brouglit
thick, hazy weather, and of courfe pre-
vented us from clofing with the fliore.—
Towards noon, however, it cleared away,

T 2 and

292

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. and the latitude was 49" 40' North : but we
JoLv. fcarccly had taken the meridian, when the
fog returned, and on fouiidin)^, we had no
more than twenty fathoms of water ; on
which we tacked immediately and Aood to
Tea. At four o*clock it again cleared up,
when Breaker's Point was feen bearing Eaft
by South, difVant four leagues, and our dif-
tance from the land was only three leagues ;
fo that when we tacked, we muft have been
clofe on board it.
Friday »s The thick, mifty weather did not entirely
clear away till the morning of the 25th,
when the entrance of King George's Sound
was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the
diftance of fix leagues ; but it again came
on fo very foggy, that it would have been
imprudence in the extreme to have run for
the land.
Satuniay s6 About eight o'clock in the morning of
the t6th, we happily anchored fafe in
Friendly Cove ; when we enjoyed the very
great fatisfa<nion of finding our friends iu
perfedl health and fecurity, as well as the
vcflcl in a forward ftate of advancement ;
Ihe was completely in frame, part gf her

(ides

'Hr->i-'

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

fides were planked, her decks laid, and
moft of her iron work finllhcd.

During our ahfence a coiiridenible quan-
tity of furs had been collected, not only
from the natives, but from various com-
panies of ftrangers, whom the fame of the
veflel had induced to vifit Noolka, in order
to fatisfy their curiofity with the fight of
fuch an objei^.

Maquilla had fcrupuloufly adhered to every
part of his engagement, and the faithful
Callicum had attended to the welfare and
fafety of our people, with the vigilance of
honour, and the affedion of friendship:
the inhabitants of the village in his ju-
rifdi£tion, not only brought daily and plen-
tiful fupplies of fi(h and other provifions to
the houfe, but gave the party every adift-
ance in their power, by his immediate orders.
Nor is it poilible for us to relate his zealous
regard and unQiaken attachment to us,
without lamenting the unmerited fate he
received, from the unfeeling and execrable
conduct of men who were natives of the
moft enlightened quarter of the globe, and
boaft the profeflion of a religion of peace
and mercy.

T 3 CHAP.

293
1788.

July.

^■» i M ii 'V 'mi mmimmmit

294
1788.

JULV.

VOYAGES TO THl

C H A P. XVIT.

Anxiety of the Party on Shore on Account of
the Ship. — Reports fprca J by the Nat:ves,'^'
KnowU'Jge obtained by the Pijrty of our En"
gagentjtit in the Straits of De Fuca, and
its Corfc'iuence. — Improvement viadc in the
Houfe^ ^c. during the A/ft nre of the Felice.
— The AJioni/lmcnt (f the Natives at the
Building of the f'^rffi'/, with their peculiar

. Attention to the Employ m- nt of the Stnit- s. —
Our Obfcrva'inn 'f the Sabbath an Objc^ of
particular Curi-fity to the Natives .r- Some
Knovc ledge of their Religion derivtd from
thence, — Defign of pro-ceding again to Port
Cox. — Rcafom ajjigned for not flopping there
on our Return from Port Effingham. — Our
Intentions frujlrated. — Mutiny on Board.
— T)&^ Perfons concerned in it turned on Shore,
'—T*he Reafons for fuch a Meafure, t£c.

IF, during our progrefs to the Southward,
we felt at times a very poignant anxiety
for the fafety and welfare of thofe whom
we had left on ftiore, it cannot be fuppofed,
'for a moment, that they were not afFe(fled

- ^ by

« 4.U-

1 ^.

^•i..

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

«95

by (imilar fenfations for their fricmls on 1788.
board the Felice; who were f^onc to en« J*'*'-^'
counter the clangers of thofe fcas where it
was douhtcd that cv-r (hip h;ul ploughed
the water, and tocxj)lorc thole (o.ills which
they did not rupp.)ll; r[i\ Eiiropcm foot luid
ever trod. — Their folicirudc was equal to
our own ; ajid their intervals of labour were
conftantly employed in countinj;; the hours
of our ahfence, — offering up prayers for our
fafety, — and joining in wifhes for our re-
turn. — But this was not all — the natural
concern they muft feel on our account, was
heightened into the mod painful alarm,
from a report hroiight them hy foiDc of t!i3
fubje<fts of Wicanani(h, wliich contained au
account of our having hccn attacked hv the
people of Tatootchc, who had cut to pieces
a part of the crew of the Felice; and tiiat
the principal officers wcreaniong thofe who
had fallen in the conted. -Such a relation,
which could not be fuppofed, by the mod
incredulous of our people, to h;i a mere
invention, threw them into a ftate of con-
fulion that checked the growing ardour
of their exertions, and cail a gloom over
them which the utmoft efforts of their re-

T 4 . Iblutiou

i<ir'. I

ISifS^'^'

■■'V-'

%^6

1788.

July.

VOYAOESTOTHE ^ : »i

folution,and the fpirlt neceflkry to encounter
a repeated acceflion of difficulties, was not
able entirely to diflipate. — This report, how-
ever, proved to be an entire fabrication of
theie who brought it, as it was previous to
the a£fcion of our long-boat with the natives
of the Straits, which might have, in fome
degree, juftified an exaggerated account of
that unfortunate event. From what motives
this falfhood was fabricated, we never could
difcover, or, indeed, form any thing like
a fatisfaftory conje<5lure. A full and faithful
account, however, of our proceedings in
Port Effingham, and a particular defcription
of our wounded feamen, was brought to
Nootka Sound, by a native of that port,
who had arrived to difpofe of a cargo of
fiirs to Maquilla.

Among other unpleafant confequences of'
this report, it put an end, for fome time, to
all communication between the natives of
King George's Sound and the houfe; and
occaiioned our people, who were under the
afflicting apprehenfions that they fhould
never fee us more, to redouble their precau-
tions till the arrival of the Iphigenia. — Their
joy, therefore, may be more eafily conceived

than

•ym iii.miiiii. 1 .n>^'^imi-*s^&ssr2

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

29J

than defcribed, when they faw the Felice 1788.
enter the Sound, and beheld every perfon )««•▼•
on board in health and fpirits, who had
departed with her.

The (ituation and circumdances in which
we found our little colony at our return,
very evidently proved their diligence, as
well as attention to the orders left with them
for their condu£l: during our abfence. The
houfe had been rendered perfectly fecure
from any attack of the natives, though they
(hould have employed their whole force
againd it. A palifado of ftrong ftnkes, with
a well-formed fence of thick buflies, had
rendered our ground, in a great meafure^
impregnable. Various other improvements
of lefs coufequence, had been made, as new
ideas of convenience and utility fuggefted
themfelves, which, altogether, gave the
place an appearance of a little dock-yard,
and not only engroffed the attention, but
excited the aflonifhment of the Nootkan
people.

Our abfence from the Sound had been
only one month and twenty-five days ; and
in this time, as we have already particu-
Urized, a very expeditious advance had

been

■ v

.^ 1

i . 1 -I

■

•;- \

iSjifftl^'Tli"

•tmi

...4^„

•Y-

i^S

VOYAGES TO THE

1 788. been made in the veflel. — She was, as maj
Jwiv. be very naturally fuppofed, an objedl of great
curiofity among the natives, who could
never be perfuaded that fuch a body of
timber would find a power equal to the re-
moval of it from the ftocks on which it was
building. — But their moft inquiiitive atten-
tion employed itlelf on the workfhop of the
fmlths, and the operation of the forges. —
Their fimple minds, in a ftate fo diftant
from the knowledge of enlightened nature
and the cultivated world, beheld, with all
the extravagance of infantine delight, the
mechanic (kill of our artificers. — Nor was
their intereft lefs engaged than their curio-
fity, in attending to thofe powers which
fabricated the variety of articles that added
fo much to the pride, the plealure, and the
convenience of their lives. — Indeed they
were continually making application to have
iron forged into forms of ufe or ornament ;
and fo very fickle were they in the obj«^£ls
of their fancy, that it became a matter of
confiderable trouble to fatisfv their varvinof
inclinations. — It was therefore determined
to turn this changeful dilpolition to our
. own advantage, by enhancing the value of
f.v^ . indulging

••---riv"'

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

*9$

indulging It; in confequence of which re- 1738,
gulation,the daily fiipply of provifions was jutv.
confidenibly augmented, and fi(h and fruit
were brought in tncreafirig aburjdance.

The 27th, being Su iday, the crew had Sunday 17
leave to amufe thw-mfelves with a ramble on
(bore. The weather was extremely plea-
fant,— the air was genial,— and every one
wore in his looks the lati^!"..6lion he fe.t,
on enjoying a ccllation from labour, and the
inilulgence of cafe and f curity. — Indeed it
was our conftanr cuftom to pay all pofnulc
refpcdl to the fabbath, and to fulfill its de-
fign, whenever it was in our power, by
making it a d ly of icft.

The nativ s could not, at firft, compre-
hend why all our occupuioub ftuoJ ftill on ,
this day : — but the diff.rent clo\thing of the
men, and particularly, the clean faces of the
fmlthj and armourers, awakened their cu-
riofity fo far as to produce an enquiry of us
concerning this incomprehenfjblt^ ngulation.
— The manner of their receiving our expla-
nation, gave us (bme uifight into their reli-
gion, which will be the fulJjecl o( a future

page. -,:. vr / -.- - :, ,; ,:..- , -, * ^'

: , ^-■' On

4 '

1 r -'

1 >

■■J

J :

* ^ " — t^i^^»^ >•»..-..

:t >"» ■,•!«,• ■

' ^H,S*»Milk'«»4|

,^i t >.ivJ

pr^''

300

VOYAGES TO THE

1788.
July.

On the 28th, we refumed our work, and
a large party was fent into the woods to fell
° ^ * timber, for the purpofe of planking the vef-
fel, which was a very laborious buiinefs, as
there were large logs to be conveyed up-
wards of a mile, through a thidk foreft, to
our little dock-yard. — The remainder of the
crew were employed, either in making cor-
dage, aflifting the carpenters, or preparing
the (hip for fea.

It was now determined to put our defign
in execution of proceeding in a few days to
Port Cox, to pay another commercial vifit to
Wicananifli. It was, indeed, our original
intention to have taken that place in our
way back from Port Effingham ; but the
' accident of the long-boat, in the Straits of
de Fuca, and our impatience to return to our
friends in the Sound, predominated over every
other confideration. But as we were now
perfectly fatisfied as to the fituation and pro-
grefs of the party at Nootka, it was agreed
to proceed again to fea, as we expected to
reap very confiderable advantages from the
numerous hunters of Wicananifli, who, we
had every reafbn to fuppofe, would, by this
jkime, have accumulated a very large quan-

<Mi7TH» -

work, and
oods to fell
ng the vef-
buiinefs, as
iveyed up-
k foreft, to
nder of the
naklng cor-
r preparing

our defign
few days to
rcial vifit to
)ur original
lace in our
n; but the
Straits of
sturn to our
1 over every
were now
on and pro-
was agreed
expedked to
;s from the
1, who, we
Lild, by this
large quan-
tity

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

301

"#v*

tity of furs. Nor did -we hefitate to believe, j-^gS.
that our reception from that chief would be julv.
more gracious, as it was now in our power
to replenifti his cofFers with fuch an inefti-
mable article as a copper tea-kettle. But this
defign was unfortunately fruft rated by a very
dangerous mutiny again breaking out, which
was pregnant with confequences of the moll
alarming nature.

This mutiny was headed by the difgraced
boatfwain, and the beft men in the (hip.— •
They made a defperate attempt to feize the
arms and put the firft officer to death, who
was left to take care of the (hip; as every
other perfbn in command was on (hore, in
the engagement of his duty, or for the pur-
pofe of recreation. The time which was '

chofen for this enterprize was well ima-
gined, as it was in the evening, on their re-
turn from the woods, and when, as we firft
obferved, there was but one officer on board.

Ever (ince the firft fymptoms of mutiny
appeared off the Philippines, the arms had
been removed from the quarter-deck to the
cabin ; and this precaution faved the (hip :
for the officer having fortunately gained the
pabiu before the mutineers, he placed him-

f Mf

•»

302

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. felf at the door with a loaded blunderbufs,
JuLv. and kept them from advancmg, while he
called abud for afTiftance. It was a fortu-
nate circumftance that moft of the officers
were fitting on the quarter-deck of the new
veflel, which was not more than an hundred
yards from the (hip. We therefore inftantly
heard the alarm through the cabin-window,
and did not delay an inftant in getting oix
board. ,

The firft ftep we took was to arm our-
felves : — when, being thus prepared, we
turned the crew on deck, as we were deter-
mined to face the bufinefs on the inftant.
We well knew that there were many good
men in the (hip ; and we refolved, if pof-
iiblc, to feparate them from the reft, before
they were prevailed on, by any means, to
join in the plot. The crew being now all
on deck, it inftantly appeared who were
the ringleaders in the bufinefs, though we
had fome reafon to apprehend that the mu-
tiny was a matter of general agreement. We
then informed them that it was our deter-
mination to proceed to extremities ; and
warned fuch as were difpofed to be obe-
dient, to feparate themfelves from the reft :
: . ; I . ^ — when,

*-'

■ ■MWOftW -

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

3^i

—■when, on prefeiiting our arms, moft of 178^*
the crew came over to us, leaving eight tur- July.
bulent fellows, headed by the difcarded
boatfwain, who remained deaf to all our per-
fuafions to return to their duty.— As we
were now very fuperior in numbers, we
hoped to fettle the matter without (bedding
a drop of blood on the occafion. We there-
fore left them the alternative, either to go
into irons, or be turned on fliore among the
favages. They preferred the Litter, — and
were immediately landed, with every thing
that individually belonged to them.

They were no fooner gone than good order
and difcipline were reftored. luftrudions,
however, were fent to the party on fliore,
not to permit the mutinous people to find a
Ihelter at the houfe, or to be admitted to
any communication with them. A ftri£l
watch was alfo kept on board, as we were
not, by any means, without our doubts con-
cerning the dlfpofitions of the red of the
crew.

We were not informed of the whole ex- Tucfday
tent of the plot till the following day,
when one of the Tailors came and gave a vo-
luntary account of it. Almoft all the crew

had

1 1

' t , .

s I

) ..'

I ■

3<^4

VOYAGES TO THE

/(■

J 788. had (igned a paper, by which they bound
jwtr. themfelves to join in getting pofleflion of
the (hip, when they were immediately to
quit the coafl of America, and (leer their
courfe to the Sandwich Iflands ; from whence
they propofed to make the bcft of their way
to fome port where they might difpofe of
their valuable cargo. — As they had taken
care to deflroy the writing, we could not
difcover what their intentions were with
refpe£t to the officers, — but the beft treat-
ment they could have expefted, would have
been to be left at Nootka. Every individual
of the crew, remaining on boird, was eager
to exculpate himfelf; and they all joined in
declaring, that the menaces of the rlnglead-
' ers alone wrung from them a temporary
confent to join in the mutiny; and the
fear of being inftantly murdered, was the
only caufe of preventing them from giving
notice of the plot to the officers of the ihip.
Had we been acquainted with thefe cir-
cumftances on the preceding evening, in all
probability it would not have pafTed without
bloodftied ; but our ignorance of them for-
tunately preferved us from fuch a cataftro-
phe. The ringleaders were now, at leaft

removed

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

' t

505

removed from any opportunity of doing 1-8C-
xnifchief, by being clear of the (hip; for, J"*-^*
befides the attention they would have re-
quired, had they been kept in irons, — we
could not, even in fuch a fituation, have
prevented their communication with the
other feamen ; which might have been em-
ployed in creating difcontents, if not in en-
deavouring to form new phiis for effecting '
their atrocious purpofes. We determined
therefore that they fliould remain on (hore,
at leaft till the arrival of the Iphigenia.

- A

^\.

Vol. I.

CHAP.

•I t

^o6

1788*

JWLV.

VOYAGES TO THE

C H A P. XVIII.

r I

Condudi of the Party on Shore rrfpeSiing the
Mutiriy. — Promife made to the Crew to go to
the Sandwich IJlands. — Occupation of the
Ship's Company, — ^he Mutineers go to live
with Maquilla and Callicum.^They are
flripped of their CloathSy and made to work,-^
Princefs Royal fcen in the Offing, — Prepare
for Sea, — ^uit King George* s Sound a fecond
Time. — Prefents made to Maquilla and Cal"
licum. — Thofe Chiefs prepare for War,'-^
Arms lent to them, — Strength of Maquilla" s
Forces, — He departs on his Expedition to
the Northward* — Inflr unions given to the
Party on Shore,

'T^H I S difturbance on board the fhip oc-
cafioncd, at firft, no little uneafinefs as
to the hifluence it might have on the re-
maining part of our voyage; but we were
iiot only confoled, but encouraged in favour-
able expectations, by the conduct of the
party on (hore, who not only declared their
deteftation and abhorrence of the mutinous

deligns.

"fpeSiing the
yew to go to
Uion of the
ers go to live
.^They are
le to work. —
ng.'^Prepare
7und a fecond
ulla and Cal-
for ffar. —

of Maqutllas
Expedition to

given to the

the (hip oc-
uneafinefs as
on the re-
but we were
Ted in favour-
idud of the
declared their
he mutinous
defigns.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

defigns, in the moft forcible terms, but
took every method which their underftand-
ings could fuggeft, to fatisfy us of their
obedient difpofition and fenfe of duty. —
They renewed their affurances of fidelity to
us in the moft folemn manner, and we did
not withhold the confidence wc believed
them to defer ve.

This mutiny furprifed us the more, as no
relaxation of duty had taken place fince our
departure from China. The crew had been
kept ftri6lly to the various occupations
which our circumflances required, but with-
out that rigour which begets difcontent ;
and they mofl certainly did not enjoy the
leifure which idlenefs fo often appropriates
mifchief. As to the folly of their defign,
that is not a matter which will juftify a mo-
ment's wonder. It is very fortunate for
mankind that wickednefs fo often wants
judgment: in this cafe, the defign of run-
ning away with the fhip arofe from little
more than the impatience of their paflions
to get to the Sandwich Iflands, which we
had declared to be a part of our voyage, and
where they longed to folace themfelves in
the enjoyments afforded by thofe voluptuous
- • U 2 abodes. — <

307

1788.

July.

f '

tMil"1<in-|ilWH»i i--

3o8
1788.

JULI.

%'■

VO Y AGES TO THE

abodes. — As to any fubfequent arrange-
ments, they had probably left them, with
all the improvidence of a lailor^s character,
to the chance of future determination.

Indeed, — nor was it unnatural, — the
obedient as well as difordcrly part of the
crew, looked with fome degree of impati-
ence to a period when they (hould change
the defart Ihores of Nootka, and the nau-
feating cuftoms of its inhabitants, for the
genial climate, the luxurious abundance,
and the gratifying pleafures of the Sand-
wich Iflands. Nor was our departure from
St. George's Sound lefs anxioufly defired by
many of the crew, from the refle(5lion that
cannibals inhabited its (hores, — and that the
fate which had befallen their countrymen at
Qweenhithc, might, from fome untoward
caufe or other, happen to them. Indeed,
as we have before obferved, the idea of
being eaten by the Americans, abfolutely
haunted the imaginations and preyed upon
the fpirits of many of our people. — We
therefore thought proper to renew our pro-
mifcs of going to the Sandwich Iflands, and
the eyes of every one fparklcd at the thought.

' The

NORTH WEIT COAST OF AMERICA.

arrangc-
cm, with
charadler,
nation,
ral, — the
irt of the
of impati-
ild change
d the nau-
s, for the
ibundance,
the Sand-
rture from

defired by
e(5lion that
ndthat the
itrymen at

untoward

Indeed,

le idea of

abfolutely

eyed upon
ople. — We
w our pro-
flands, and
le thought.
^ The

309

The diminution of our (hip*s compnny, 1-S8.
from the pr^fs of employment on Ihore, J"''^*
and reparation of the muiinou? feamen, pre-
vented us from leaving King George*s Soinul,
to make another voyage to Port Cox, as
we had intended. The fails were therefore
unbent, the running-rigging unrccfcd, and
we prepared to give tlie carpenters every
afliftance in our power towards fiiiifhing the
veflei on the (locks. For this purpofe, ad-
ditional faw-pits were dug, and men f(.Mit to
be employed in them ; new iupplles of tim-
ber were alfo brought from the woods, and
an additional party was fpared from the fhip
to aflift in making cordnge, and the other
occupations of our little dock-yard. At tho
fame time, the neceflary ftorcs were landed
for the ufe of the houfe ; ai^d as the fmiths
had exhaufted thcmfelves of iron, their work-
fhop was replenifhed with a confiderahle
quantity of that cflential article.

Though at our departure from China we
poffefTed plenty of ftores of every kind, their
confumption had been to great in the va-
rious fervices which demanded them, that
we were, at letigth, under the nccefiity of
reforting to the produce of the country, and

U3 the

»',(

310

VOYAGES TO THK

r I

1788. the exertions of our own ingenuity, to fup-
juLY. ply their decreafing or exhaufted ftate. All
our fea-coal being expended, we made char-
coal with great facility, which the fmiths
preferred to the other. The turpentine,
which we got from trees in great abundance,
was found to be of great fervice in paying
the planks, to keep them from rending ;
and, when mixed with oil, of which we
could procure any quantity, it proved a
very ufeful fuccedaneum for tar — The red
ochre which the natives employed to paint
their faces, we purchafed from them: — In
fhort, there were very few, if any articles,
to be procured at Nootka, which we did not
contrive to turn to very good account, and
which we purpofely purchafed, to preferve
the communication of good offices between
us and the people, and to keep alive their
activity to ferve us.

Neceffity, that mother of invention, taught
us, in this remote corner of the globe, to
look for aid to thofe Iburces on which
we did not deign to caft an eye, while we
pofluffed a flore of fuch materials as flow
from the fupeiior knowledge of cultivated
. fociety : while perfeverance, that all-fub-

duing

y, to fup-
ftate. All
lade char-
he fmiths
jrpentine,
buudance,
in paying

rending ;
which we

proved a
—The red
1 to paint
hem : — In
y articles,
ive did not
pount, and
:o preferve
s between
alive their

on, taught
; globe, to
on which

while we
Is as flow

cultivated
it all-fub-
duing

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

duing principle of human a£tion, produced
for us on the unfrequented fhores of Ame-
rica, fomewhat of the conveniencies, and a
fuccefsful imitation of thofe arts which may
be conlidered as the natural growth of Eu-
rope.

The mutinous feamen immediately built
themfelves a large hut, in which they re-
(ided, beneath whofe leafy roof they had full
leifure to contemplate on their paft villainy;
and, as their different chara^Slers might ope-
rate, to curfe the ill-fortune that befel, or
lament the wicked fpirit that mifled them.
They, indeed, fufFered feverely for their
difobedient conduct, and feemed to caO: a
wifliful eye to the floating habitation from
which they were banifhed ; for all commu-
nication was now (hut up between them and
the houfe, as well as the (hip ; — but we
well knew that a very little portion of in-
would be fufficient to

:ry

ipply

with fi(h ; and to enable them to gain a
fupport from the fea, we purchafed a canoe,
and fent it to them, as the laft fiivour or at-
tention they were to exped from us.

On the day after the mutiny had ap-
peared, Maquilla and Gallic um came on

311
1788.

July.

board,

VOYAGES TO THE

1788. board, to prove their friendfliip, by ofFermg
July, fuch fervicps as the peculiar exigency of our
iituation might require. Till this circum-
ftance led us to explain the real condition of
our feamen, the chiefs had confidered them
ID the liji^ht of flaves ; and had already com-
plimented us, with fome mixture of fur-
prife, on the extraordinary mildnefs of our
conduct towards the crime of rebellion in a
people of their fuppofed condition. Nay,
Maquilla, from an apparent horror of the
offence, and a forward zeal for our fecurity,
had taken fome of the officers afide, and
ferioufly afked permiflion to collect fome of
his people, and put the mutineers to inftant
death. The requeft, as may be fuppofed,
was not only refufed, but treated with the
ftrongeft marks of difpleafure; and fo well
difpofeJ was Maquilla to put his project in
execution, that we were obliged to accom-
pany our refufal with repeated figns of ab-
horrence, in order to prevent it. Callicum,
however, adled in t!ie buiinefs with more
prudence and undt rftanding: — He wifhed
to affiil in puniflilng the offenders by a mode
that he knew could not be difigreeable, to us
and would beiufTiciently mortifying to them-

; , - Whenjj

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

When, therefore, he underftood that thefe
unhappy people were baniflied from the (hip,
he requefted our permiflion to receive them
into his houfe ; and as we were well afTured
that the beft hofpitality even of a Nootkan
chief, would be a very fevere punifhment to
a Britifh failor, — we readily confented to his
propofition, on his affuring us, at the fame
time, that his new guefts fhould be fecure
from any perfonal injury whatever.

This bufinefs being arranged, we left the
difcarded people to their new guardians, and
turned our thoughts to matters of more im-
mediate importance. On the following day,
to our great furprife, and as we are ready to
acknowledge, to our no little fatisfadlion, we
faw our fturdy and refolute mutineers em*
ployed in fetching water, and other menial
fervices, in the execution of which, flaves
alone are employed at Nootka. Nor were
they fuffered to quit the houfe of Callicum
on any occafion whatever, without being
attended by natives of the loweft condition,
to whofe care and command they were en-
trufted. This compulfory labour muft have
been a very mortifying circumftance to
them ; as, rather than employ the canoe we

ha4

3'3
1788.

JULV.

I-

i*i;

"■St*^.— ^ajU,s. ^ .^,.

^ '''pRiimiw . ■

■I

' .k

«,■ )l

q,j VOYAGES TO THE

1788. had given them to get fifli for themfelves,
July, they had been fo lazy as to part with fome
of their cloathing to purchafe that article
from the natives. The chiefs, however,
foon took care to fecure their cloaths to
themfelves ; and, without being guilty of
injuftice to our friends, we are obliged to
attribute their feveral propofals concerning
the offenders, though we did not at firft fuf-
pe6t their motives, to the defire of getting
pofTeffion of the feveral garments that co-
vered them. That object was eafily ob-
tained ; and when thefe unhappy men had
given up their all, they were forced to go
to fea, to affift in procuring fifli, — not for
, themfelves, but for the families of their
new matters. - « '. .

w"dndaly 6 ^'® Continued our various operations with
the mofl indefatigable induftry and attention,
and nothing material happened till the 6th
of Auguft; when, about noon, a fail was
feen in the offing, which we knew to be the
Princefs Royal. She appeared, at firft, as
if ftanding in for the Sound, but the weather
becoming foon after thick and hazy, we loft
fight of her. On the arrival of this veflel
on the coaft, we determined immediately to
• . prepare

r t

♦•^■J•^t^.

t*'*'^-**''"

lemfelves,
ivith fome
hat article

however,
cloaths to

guilty of
obliged to
:oncerning
It firft fuf-
of getting
5 that co-
eafily ob-
' men had
reed to go
, — not for
s of their

itions with

I attention,

II the 6th
a fail was
V to be the
at firft, as
he weather
zy, we loft

this V£ffel
ediately to
prepare

NORTir WEST COAST OF AMERICA. air

prepare for fea, as the prefence of this (hip 1788.
would be an additional fecurity to our par- Aucuit.
ty ; and, notwithftanding the diminiflied
ftate of our crew, we were now refolved to *

venture to Port Cox, to poflefs ourfelves of
the furs which, we had every reafon to
believe, muft have been colle6led for us by
Wicananifli : a plan which would have been
already executed, if we had not been impeded
by the mutinous condu(fl of our crew.

On the 7th, the Princefs Royal again Timrfdayy
appeared in the offing, and was again ob-
fcured from our view, by the return of
thick, mifty weather.

On the 8th, we were ready for fea, — and Friday s

as we faw nothing of the Princefs Royal, v*

we became very apprehenfive that fhe might

reach the ftiores of Wicananifh before us,

and be able to tempt that chief, by various

articles of novelty on board her, to intrude

upon the treaty he had made with us. We,

therefore, did not delay a moment to fail

from the Sound, with a gentle breeze of

wind from the Weftward, and proceeded

to Port Cox.

Previous to our departure, we confirmed
our friendftiip with Maquilla and Callicum,

with

"-H

..«Cj/'*^"W'

_.«wi»»^

sS^BSflKjajr?*

3i6

VOYAGES TO THE

: ' 1 ^

^\ Uf

^1-

r »

1788. with the ufual interchange of prefents.—
August. Thefe chiefs had been for fome time prepa-
ring for an hoftile expedition againft an
enemy at a confiderable diftance to the North-
ward, and were now on the point offetting
forward. Some of the nations in the vi-
cinity of the Northern Archipelago, had.
It feems, invaded a village about twenty
leagues to the Northward of King George's
Sound, under the jurifdi(Slion, and which
had been left to the particular government
of his grandmother.

At this place the enemy had done confi-
derable mifchief, — murdering fome of the
people, and carrying others into captivity.
On the arrival of a meflenger at Nootka
with the news of thefe hoftilities, the inha-
bitants became inftantly inflamed with a
moft aftive impatience for revenge ; and no-
thing was thought of amongft them, but
the means of gratifying it.

We embraced this opprotunity of bind-
ing the chiefs, if poffible, unalterably to us,
by furnifliing them with fome fire-arms
and ammunition, which would give them
a very decided advantage over tiieir ene-
jnies. Indeed we felt it to oQ our intereft

: ': ' ^' ' }'■ that

*^'^^^^s mli^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

that they (hould not be difturbed and in- 1788,
terrupted by diftant wars; and that, if ne- auoust,
ceflity (hould compel them to battle, that
they (hould return vidorious. This unex-
pected acquifition of force animated them "
with new vigour ; for they had already con-
felTed that they were going to attack an
enemy who was more powerful, numerous
and favage than themfelves.

We attempted to inftill into their minds
the humanity of war, — and they had aduully
promifed to puni(h the enemies they (hould
take in battle with captivity, and not, as
had been their general practice, with death.
But it could not be fuppofed that the doc-
trines of our humane policy would be re-
membered by a favage nation burning with
revenge, in the moment of battle ; and we
are forry to add, that this expedition ended
in a moft (hocking icene of blood and maf-
facre. - ■ . -.

The power that Maquilla carried with him
on this occafion, was of a formidable na-
ture. His war canoes contained each thirty
young, athletic men, and there were twenty •
of thefe ve(rels, which had been drawn from
the different villages under the fubjeftion ^

2l8 VOYAGES TO THE

1 788. of Maquilla. — Comekela had the command
August, oftwoboats: — They moved off from the
fhore in folemn order, linging their fong of
war. The chiefs were cloathed in fea-otter
(kins ; and the whole army had their faces
and bodies painted with red ochre, and
fprinkled with a (hining fand, which, parti-
cularly when the fun (hone on them, pro-
duced a fierce and terrible appearance-
While the women encouraged the warriors,
in the patriotic language of the Spartan
dames, — to return victorious, or to return
no more.

The battles, or rather the attacks of thefe
favage tribes, are, we believe, inconceivably
furious, and attended with the moftlfhocking
actions of barbarous ferocity. They do not
carry on hoftilities by regular confli(Sls ; but
their revenge is gratified, their fanguinary
appetites quenched, or their laurels obtained
by the operations of fudden enterprize and
adlive ftratagcm.

The irflruiStions we left with our party
on (hore were fuch as the circumflances of
the cafe required. They were requcfled to
maintain, and if poflible to augment their
former vigilance ; particularly if any ftran-

gers

'^J^Ov.

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

319

gers fhould arrive in the Sound. And if 1788.
it fliould happen that our friends were van- August.
quiflied, and purfucd to Nootka, that they
fhould take a decided and a6llve part in their
fupport. They were alfo defired not to let
their humanity operate to the renewal of
any communication with the baniflied fea-
men, — but to leave them to the lamented
hardfliips of their condition, and the pain-
ful ftruggles of their repentance.

'' I

CHAP.

■ \

)

i')fj

I J

230
1788.

August.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. XIX.

Set fail for Port Cox, — Meet the Princefs Royah
— Reciprocal good Offices. — Anchor in Port
Cox. — Princefs Royal anchors in Port Han"
na. — Wicananifl) removed to Clioquatt, —
Long-boat fent there at two different 'Times ^
with PrcfentSf &c. — Defer ipt ion of Clioquatt,
— Occupations of the Natives. — Bri/k Trade
with them. — The Long-boat fent a third
Time to iVicananifh^ on taking leave. — Mejfage
from that Chief who afterwards arrives on
board. — His Son propofes to embark with
uSf which we decUnt\ — Put to Sea, and An*
chor again in King George* s Sound, — The Ar*
rival of the IvHiQE^iA.'^-Tiannd's affec^
iionate Behaviour, &c. — Arrival of Maquilla
and Callicum, and an Account of their Ex*
^edition, &c,

WJ^ had but juft cleared the mouth of
^ ^ the Sound, when a thick fog arofe,
which obliged us to heave to. — In the even-
ing, however, it cleared away, when we
faw the Princefs Royal within two or three

' • miles

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ajJ

miles of us, to the windward ; and, on per- I788,
ceiving us, (he fired a gun to leeward and Auoitit,
hoifted her enfign. We returned the fignal,
and (he immediately bore up and fpoke to us.
r inftantly ordered out the boat, and went
on board the Princefs Royal. 1 had no per-
fonal knowledge of Captain Duncan, who
commanded her ;— but 1 had received full
information in China of the objed and ex-
tent of her voyage ; and I now felt the moft
anxious defire to offer any fervice to him and
his little crew which he might want, or it
might be in my power to afford. — Far from
feeling the moft diftant impulfe of any mi-
ferable confideration, arifing from a com-
petition of interefts, I profefs myfelf to have
been animated by no other defires but thofe
which arofe from my duty, as a man and *
an Englifliman. The Princefs Royal was
not quite fifty tons burthen, and manned by
fifteen men ; and when it is known that fhe
had doubled Cape Horn, and navigated the
great Northern and Southern Pacific Oceans,
fome idea may be formed of the diftrefles her
people muft have fufFered, as well as of the
ability and indefatigable fpirit of the com-
mander. Indeed, there is every reafon to ,
Vol. I. X believe

iMlirAifetffin'ifi"

ill .1111- iinii

If i ' 'I ■ ' ti n mmmtm^it§ti

322

VOYAGES TO TttE

Auousr,

1788. lielievc that this little veflel accompliHied
more for the benefit of her owners, than any
Ihip that ever failed to the North Weftern
Coaft of America.

Captain Duncan received me, with the
whole of his crew, upon deck,— whom I
could not but regard, as he condu£ted me to
his cabin, with an eye of applaufive aftonilh-
ment. The firfl queftion which Captain
Duncan afked me was, concerning the fate
of the (hip Nootka, about which he exprefled
an extreme anxiety. He had heard of the
various misfortunes that had befell her, and
was expreffing his doubts as to the pofli-
bility of her reaching China, — when 1 at
once calmed his friendly apprehenfions, by
afluring him I myfelf commanded the Noot-
ka in that diftrefsful voyage which had ex-
cited his compaflion ; and that he beheld mc
engaged, at this moment, in an amicable
conteft with him for the favours of fortune.
His aftonifhment almoft fuperfeded his be-
lief on the occafion ; and, knowing what I
had fufFered in my former voyage, he could
fcarce conceive it to be within the reach of
poffibility, that I fliould bs already re-em-

• barked

mt*irf'^li¥'^-^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

3^3

barked in an adventure on the American 1788.

Coaf^* ^ AusuiT.

Tlie Prlncefs Royal had been out near
twenty mouths from Enghmd, and was in
want of many articles, without which it
is aftonifhing (he could have continued her
voyage. — Though haraffed with fatiguing
duty, and in a climate and feafon where the
feverity of the weather required the aid of
invigorating qordials, their ftock of liquors
had long been exhaufted. We were ex-
tremely happy in being able to fupply them
with a fmall quantity ; when Captain Dun-
can, in return, made us an unrcferved offer
of any thing his little veflel afforded *.

Deftined as we were to be employed on '

a remote and unfrequented coaft, and liable
to all the hardihips and inclemencies of fuch

* On enquiring of Captain Duncan concerning his
<Iiftre(Ied condition, he told me that he had met Captain
Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte ; and though that (hip
vras on her return to China, and abundantly ftocked
with every thing ; and even though flie belonged to
the fame owners with the Princefs Royal, the provident
Commander thought it much better to carry all his ftotes
back to China, than to fpare any of them to the latter
veilel, though they would have been fo great an alle*
viation to the hardihips of her voyage.

' X 2 a fitua-

/•

^24 ••' VOVAGES TO THE

1788. actuation, we felt an equal fympathy for
AvcusT. our common allotment, and a mutual incli-
nation to relieve, as far our power extended,
the mutual inconveniencies of it.

We now feparated ; when the Princefs
. Royal purfued her courfe to the South South
Eaft, and we continued along fhore.— She
had nearly brought her voyage to a conclu-
lion, and was proceeding to the Sandwich
Iflands, to take in refrelhments, in order
to return to China with her valuable cargo
of furs. .V • -7

About nine o'clock in the evening the wind
' veered to the Eaft by South, which was im-
mediately againft us, and obliged us to tack
and ftand to fea.
Sunday »o It was the morning of the loth before we
got down a-breaft of Port Cox> when we
found the Princefs Royal had a few hours
before arrived in a fmall bar harbour, where
, - our friend Hanna, the chief, refided. — Cap-

tain Duncan fent his boat off to us, as we
palled, to know if he fliould pilot us into
the harbour ; but as our intention was to
enter Port Cox, we contented ourfelves with
thanking him for his kind attentions His
. boat, however, accompanied us till we an-
chored

)

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. -jC

chored in the inner port, about five o'clock 1788.
in the evening, when (he quitted us to re- Aucwst.
turn to her (hip ; pading through the chan«
nels between the iflands and the main, the
diftance being about fifteen miles.

The late Eaflerly winds had obliged the
Princefs Royal to (helter herfelf here, as
well as to procure (bme wood and water,
previous to her quitting the American coaft.

On our arrival in Port Cox, we found
that Wicanani(h had already removed to liis
winter quarters, which were up the harbour,
and at the diftance of between thirty and
forty miles from the (hip.

On the I ith, the long-boat was difpatched Mond^iy i j
to the chief, with prefents ; and in the even-
ing (he returned, having met him at a fmall ' ■
fummer village, which w?.s fituated about
twenty miles from the (hip. He received the
part^ with every mark of the moft diftin-
gui(hing regard ; and, in return for our pre-
fent, fent on board forty otter (kins, of the
moft valuable fpecies; and was pleafed to
make known his further wi(h, that the boat
might be hereafter fent to his winter refi-
dence, whither he was then going,

X3 ... Ou

.j^ *■• y'^**^vi^^'v*'

, ^ . «^ ^, ^j,

'ffT'

321

VOYAGES TO THE

1788.

August.
Tucltiay 12

On the 1 2th, though the weather was
but indifFerent, the long-boat was never-
thelcfs difpatched to Wicananifti, with a va-
riety of articles for trade, and fome flattering
prefents, amongft which the copper tea-
kettle which had already been mentioned to
him, was not forgotten, and whofe arrival
was eagerly expected by the whole family
of the chief.
Thurfday 14 The long-boat did not return till the 14th,
when the officer gave us the following ac-
count of his little voyage.

On the morning of the 13th he arrived
at Clioquatt, the winter refidence of Wica-
nanifh, which confifted, like the other towns,
. of fuch houfes as we have already defcribed,
but more commodioufly conftruded, poflef-
fing a greater fhare of their rude magnifi-
cence than any which we had yet feen. —
. It was very large and populous; and the
dwelling of die chief much more capacious
than that which he occupied in the village
- near th*e fea, when we firft vifited his ter-

• ritories. The inhabitants were, at this time,

* bufily employed in packing up fifh in mats,
— fecuriiig the roes of them in bladders,—
cutting whales into dices, and melting down

blubber

I''

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

Z'^1

blubber into oil, which they poured into 1^88.
feal-lkins. — All this mighty preparation was Avgust
the provident fpirit of catering for the win-
ter: — and the incredible quantities of thefe
various provifions which our people faw col-
le£ted, promifed, at leaft, that famine would
not be an evil of the approaching feafon.

On thefe (hores the winter is the happy
portion of the year which is appropriated to
luxury and eafe ; nor are they then ever
aroufed into aftion, but to take fome of tliofe
enormous whales, which, at that feafon, fre-
quent their feas, in order to feafl: any of the
neighbouring chiefs who may come to vifit
them.

Wicananifli received all our prefents with
expreffions of extreme fiitisfaftion ; but the i \

kettle was honoured with his peculiar at-
tention, and borne away by him with an .
air of triumph, to be placed among his
treafures; and wdth repeated declarations, .
that no confideration whatever (hould again
induce him to yield up fuch a valuable de-
pofit. Twelve brafs-hilted (words compofed
part of our offering, which were favoured \
with the moft grateful admiration; and a
great variety of articles had been purpofely

X 4 ma«

-28 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. manufa(flured to fuit the fancy of the wo-*
August, men, who vied with each other m their cor»
dial attentions to our people. A more hrifk,
trade was then carried on with tiie inhabit
tants than we had hitherto experienced ; a
confiderable quantity of furs were obt.iiiied,
and the boat returned well freighted with
the produce of the voyage, and her people
perfectly fatisfied with their reception from
Wicanani(h.

Though we had every reafon to be con-
tented with our commcrciaJ (uccefs, we de-
termined to fend another em bnfly, which, if
it did not produce any immediate advantage,
might leave thofe imprefiions that would
eftablifh a rooted interefl in our favour with
the chief and his people. The long-boat was
Monday 18 therefore, on the i8th, difpatched to the
town, to take our farewell meffage, and,
which was of more confequence, our fare-
well prefent to Wicananifli. Indeed we pro-
pofed, on this occafion, to prove the difin-
tereftednefs of our friendfhip, by feledling
fuch a variety of articles as would fuit evei^
the mod varying fancy of this fickle people.
• — ^To thefe were alfo added feveral coats,
profufely trinimed with buttons, and the

hea4

K «t-

""P!

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

329

head of a large copper ftlll. This fumptuous i ygg.
prefent was ordered to be made on our part August.
with a ftridt prohibition not to receive any
thing in return.

The boat returned on the evening of the
19th, having pundlually executed our or-
ders ; and having brought a meflage from
the chief, that he propofed to vifit the ihip
the next day ; and therefore defired us to
defer our departure for the purpofe of re-
ceiving him.

On tlie 20th, we were accordingly vifitedWcdncfday»o
by Wicananifh, attended by his brother, his
two fons, three of his wives, and a great
number of people from the town, who at-
tended their chief, in order to gain another
opportunity of trading with us; and no fmall
quantity of furs were, at this time, procured
from them. The chief, however, prefented
us with feveral fea otter (kins of the moft
valuable kind ; and, though there was every
realbn to believe that he intended to rival us
in gencrofity, by refuliiig to receive any re-
turn, he could not bring himlelf to fend back
acoupleof mulkets and a quantity of ammu-
nition ; which were too tempting to be re-
fifled by the delicacy of his fentiments, and

might

■V

->«*.vfc.*i-i. -•*»♦*. r*""

^qo VOYAGES TO THE

1788. ^^g^^* prove too ufeful in defending himfelf
August, againft his powerful neighbour, Tatootche,
not to be received with the moft grateful
fatisfa(5tion. He cnquiied, in the moft affec-
tionate manner, how many moons would
pafs away before our return ; and folicited
us, in the ftrongeft manner, to prefer his
port and harbour to every other.

One of his fons, a young man of about
nineteen years of age, exprefll d a very earneft
defire to depart with us; but this offer we
thought imprudent to decline, from a re-
colledlion of the anxiety we had fuffered
on a former occafion, by receiving even the
amiable Tianna to our care and prott (flion.
This youth was the moft pleafing, in his
figure and appearance, of any perfon we had
fcen on the American coaft. He not only
appeared to be very quick and fagacious, but
to poffefs an amiable and docile difpofition ;
and we do not doubt, had he vifited L hina,
;/ but that he would have returned with far

:, different qualifications than Comekela, to

improve and adorn his country.

Wicananifh and his people left us with
every token of fincere regret, and repeated
entreaties that we would foon return. —

Having

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

33^

Having bid thefe generous people farewell, r^88.
we put to fea in the evening of the 20th ; August.
and, without any material occurrence, an-
chored fafe on the 24th, in our old fituation
in King George's Sound. Our abfence had
now occupied Co (hort a fpace of time, that
we felt nothing of that anxiety for our party
at Nootka which we had experienced on our
former feparation. We found them all well,
and the veflel confiderably advanced. The
carpenters had nearly planked her up, and
her fituation was fuch, that we propofed
launching her on the 20th of September.

The exiled crew remained in the fame
unpleafant fituation in which we had left
them. Grief, pain and remorfe had, we ^ ,
believe, been their conftant companions,
fince they were baniflied from the Ihip; —
at leaft their appearance was fuch as to juf- '
tify us in forming fuch an opinion: and
when the Felice entered Friendly Cove, we
obferved, as they viewed her from the beach,
that the fight of her feemed, in fome degree,
to enliven their dejedled countenances.

The time now approached when we had
every reafon to expe«3: the Iphigenia, ac-
cording to the inllrudtions given her at our

lepa-

. ^ ^ ». -*,., * • .

--^ VOYAGES TO THE

1788 feparatlon. — We began to feel that anxiety
AwcuiT. for her fate, which we, who knew the dan-
gers fhe had to encounter, muft naturally
feel, when day after day paiTed on, and we
faw no appearance of her. Our anxious
eyes were continually wandering over the
fea that wafhed the American Coafl, in
fearch of thofe fails which might mark the
approach of our friends ; but for fome time
nothing was feen but a vaft expanfe of wa-
ter, unenlivened by any object but, now
and then, the folitary canoe of a Nootka
fiiherman. Thus alternately governed by
hope and fear, by the expedlation of foon
feeing our companions again, and the ap-
, prehenfions of never feeing them more, we
paffed thebufy part of our time ; and, when
our occupations were over, we ufed, in the
evening, to walk on the (hore, at the back
of Friendly Cove, and interchange thofe
refledtions which had occurred in filence,
during the labours and employment of the
day.

In our evening walk on the 26th, while
we were communicating our thoughts, and
repeating our vaticinations concerning the
Iphigenia, to our infinite joy a fail was feen

^-. ^i.. — "— * -- . '-h4fv.'j[ 'itlx ""-"

[.5*»vj-«*';:'s:,'«i"-

^>J».'s:'

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 03^

in the offing, which we were willing to I788,
conclude could be no other than that which August.
we expected ; and, indeed, fo it proved ; for,
on the 27th in the morning, (he anchored Wednrfday»i
in Friendly Cove. *

Such a meeting as this, obtained, as it de-
ferved, a general celebration ; and orders
were accordingly given that all ^work of
every kind (hould be fufpended; that it
might be a day of reft to the body, as well
as of joy to the mind.^In fhort our little ju-
bilee, on a diftant and dreary coaft, was paf^
fed with a degree of fatisfa£tion and de-
light which the fplendid feftivities of po-
lifhed nations have not always known. The
relation of dangers that were paft, — the
pleafing renewals of private friendfliip, — the
fuccefs which had attended our hazardous
expeditions, — and the fair profpeft that we
(hould return home to enjoy the fruits of
them, formed the fubjedls of our eager
difcourfe ; while the happy hours were en-
livened by convivial mirth and focial plea-
fure.

It was, as may be well conceived, a great

addition to our happinefs that the crew of

the Iphigenia were entirely recovered from

3 the

i 1

•/o-t^^&'^tML

'; ''?flfl?'WI^!^**''^'^'p!^*'

I I

t {

I ;

224 rOYAGES TO THE

1788. the diforder which threatened them, at thd
August, time of OUT fepaiatioii, and now joined
us in full health and vigour. The joy of
Tianna at the fight of thofe friends whom
he had left with fuch poignant marks of
/ regret, was of a nature to delight all who

beheld the warm efFufions of his grateful,
mind, but cannot be conveyed to thofe who
did not behold it by any language of mine.
Nor were we infenfible to the pleafure of
feeing him reftored to us, fo entirely reco-
vered from a diforder which had filled us '
with apprehcnfion that we (hould never (ee
him again. Indeed, from the general change
in his looks, and ftill wearing his fur cap •
and other warm cloathing, with which he
had clad hlmfclf, during the cold feafon,
while the Iphigenia was in Prince William's
Sound and Cook's River, — we did not im-
mediately recognize the chief ; butthevio*
, lence of his joy fbon difcovered him to us ; /

and though it might be more expreffive, it
was not more fincere than our own. Indeed,
fuch had ever been the conciliating power of
his manners, that there was not a feaman
in either fliip, that did not love Tianna as
himfelf.

i; ' (

h.y^

I in t mtm

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

335

We had fuppofed that his fatisfa<f\Ion on 1788.
feeing us once again, was compleat ; but we August.
found it ftill capable of increafe ; — for when
he was informed that we propofed, in a
very fhort time, to proceed to the Sandwich
Iflands, — his expreffions of delight knew no
bounds; — they were wild, fantaftic and ex-
ceflive ; and it was fome time before they
funk into that ftate of moderation which
qualified him to receive any frefli impref-
fions of pleafure. The new vefl'el was re-
fer ved for that purpofe ; and when it was
pointed out, and he was made acquainted
with its obje£t, he regarded it with fuch a
firm and fixed attention, as if his eyes would
have darted from their fockets to the veflel :
and till (he was launched, he continued the
conftant companion of the carpenters, ex-
amining their operations and obferving their
progrefs. We encouraged this difpofition;
and it is fcarcely to be credited how much
of a carpenter's profeffion he learned during
the (hort time we remained at King George's
Sound.

On the 27th, whe we were vlfiti ng the
village, Maquilla and Callicum returned
from their war expedition ; and, on entering

the

I I

l*Mim"<i""'''1ii

iimT?" *iii»''"'i»i iirifii

"iii ^ Mi<ihwtii<'» ■-

2^6 • VOYAGES TO THE

1788. the Sound, their little army gave the flioiit of
AuouiT. vidory. They certainly had obtained fome
advantages, as they brought home in their
canoes feveral balkets, which they would
not open in our prefence, and were fufpedled
by us, as it afterwards proved, by the con-
fefllon of Callicum, to contain the heads of
enemies whom they had {lain in battle, to
the amount of thirty ; but this victory was
not purchafed without fome lofs on the fide
of the powers of Nootka.

The chiefs now returned the arms they
had received from us, but the ammunition
was entirely expended : — we perceived, in-
deed, that the mulkets had been fired feveral
times ; and Callicum affured us that they
» had taken ample vengeance for the hoftilities
exercifed againfl them ; and had, befidcs, '
made a great booty of fea- otter (kins, in
which they were all arrayed.

The Sandwich Ifland Chief did not, as we
firft expelled, difcover any furprife at the
fight of Maquilla and his army ; but the fre-
quent communication of the Iphigenia with
' the natives along the coaft, from Cook's
River to King George's Sound, had rendered
them and their manners no longer an object

. »(

' t

. T'

y-'.<<lHlilt*M**i«tSiii»<y»ili>^^

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

3^1

hout o^
d feme
[I their
would
ifpedted
tie con-
icads of
ttle, to
ory was
the fide

ns they
[lunition
ved, in-
J feveral
lat they
oftilities
befides, '
^uis, iu

►t, as we

; at the

the fre-

ia with

Cook's

endered

n obje£t

of novelty, as they had never been an obje«5l 1788.
of confideration in the eyes of Tianna. In- Auoust.
deed, when he, with his fine coloflal figure,
flood by Maqiiilla, who was rather of a low
ftature, the diflference was fuch, as not only
to ftrike every beholder, but even to afl^edt
themfelves with the different fenfations of
an exulting or a wounded pride, which
would prevent any very cordial afFedlion from
taking place between them. Tianna and
Comckela were old acquaintance, but by no
means intimate friends, as the former held
the latter in a very low degree of eftimation ;
and, accordingly, we did not obferve any
very cordial appearance of joy at their pre-
fent meeting. As Comekela had been at
the Sandwich Iflands, on his firft leaving
America, the (hip having flopped there for
refrefhments, he was qualified to give Ma-
quilla an account not only of Tianna, but
the country from whence he came, and he
did it probably to the difadvantage of both.
At all events, Tianna held the cufloms of ;

Nootka in deteflation ; and could not bear
the idea of their cannibal appetites, withou*
cxprefling the mofl violent fenfations of dif-
gufl and abhorrence.
Vol. I. T In.

a-^g VOYAGES iO THE

1788. Indeed, there was no comparifon to be
August, made between the inhabitants and cuftoms
of the Sandwich Iflands and thofe among
whom we now refided, or of any part of the
continent of America. — The former are their
fuperiors in every thing that regards what
we ihould call the comforts of life, and
their approach to civilization. They attend
to a circumftance which particularly diftin-
guifhes polished from favage life, and that
» is cleanlinefs : — they are not only clean to
an extreme in their food, but alfo in their
perfons and houfes the fame happy difpo-
fition prevails : — while the North Weftern
Americans are nafty to a degree that rivals
the moft filthy brutes, and, of courfe, pro-
hibits any defcription from us. Indeed, the
very difgufling nature of their food is not
diminiihed by the manner in which it is*
eaten, or rather devoured. — Befides, their
being cannibals, if no other circumftance of
inferiority could be produced, throws them
to a vail diftance from the rank which is
held in the fcale of human being by the
countrymen of Tianna : nor ihould we pafs
over in this place the frequent and folemn
declarations of this chief, that the liatives of

the

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

339

the Sandwich Iflands poiiefs the moft ab- 1788^
horrent fentlments of cannibal nature; and auowix..
though they may immolate human beings
on the altars of their deity, they have not
the leaft idea of making fuch a facrifice to
their own appetites. Indeed, we truft it
will not prove a vain hope^ that thefe amiable
people may foon be taught to abandon even
their religious inhumanity ; and that near
half a million of human beings, inhabiting
the Sandwich Iflands, may one day be ranked
among the civilized fubje^ts of the Britiih
empire.

1 1.

Y»

CHAP.

*^ \'

340
1788.

VOYAGES TO THE

CHAP. XX.

h I

^he Crew of the Iphigenia employed on the new
FeJfeU — j4rrangetnents made relative to the
Ships* — Inhabitants prepare to retire to their
IVinter garters, — Difpojitions relative td the
exiled Part of the Crew, who are again re-

■: ceived on board, on certain Conditions, — Ma-
quilla and Callicam pay us a Vifit previous

fe . to their Departure* — Prefents made to thefe

r. Chitfs., — T/> Sagacity of the latter, — A Sail
feen in the Offing, — Boat fe Jit out to ajjift her,
^-'The Wapington enters the Sound,'^Some
Account of her Voyage, ^c, — I'he new Vejfel
named and launched, — A Crew appointed to
hr, — Orders delivered to the Iphigenia. —
T^anna embarks onboard her,-^—Efcape of the
degraded Boatfwain ; — Affifled by the Majier
of the IVafJjingtan, — ^iit King George's
Sound, and proceed to the Sandwich IJlands,

'T^HE arrival of the Iphigenia infufed not
only into our minds new life and fpi-
rits, but enabled us to proceed in our dif-
ferent operations with redoubled vigour. —
We now formed a very ftrong party ; and,

there-

"t-m-

-)€ new
to the
to their
le to the
ain re-
— Ma-'
previous
to thefe
-A Sail
fiftber.
-^—Some
V Fejel
nnted to
enta. —
>e of the
Majier
7eorge's
/lands,

fed not
id fpi-
)ur dif-
^our. —
; and,
there-

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

therefore, had no doubt of being able to
launch the veflel by the time we propofed.

The voyage of the Iphigenia had alfo
afforded us additional and very promifing
expedlations of rendering the North Weft
Coaft of America a very important commer-
cial ftation. She had very completely coafted
the American Ihore, from Cook's River to
King George's Sound, and had brought us
the moft indubitable proofs of the exiftence
of the Great Northern Archipelago: — But
this new, important, and very interefting
obje£t has already, we truft, fatisfied the at-
tention of our readers, in one of the intro-
ductory Memoirs prefixed to this volume.

The artificers of the Iphigenia were im-
mediately employed to afiift thofe of the
Felice in forwarding the completion ot the
veffel. Indeed, they rather felt a jealoufy
on feeing: the works we had formed ; which
adled as a ftimulative to take an a£tive (hare
in the honour of them : fo that the bullnefs
of our temporary dock promifed a very
fpeedy completion. Nor were the feamen
idle : fome were added to the rope-makers,
and others ftrengthened the party appointed
to cut down fpars for prefent ule ; and, in

y 3 parti-

341

1788.

August.

-'•*«»-.>TB<*»»»\

**.j)^4

' ♦■.■•..-

ki^

2^2 VOYAGES TO THB

1788. particular, to procure a new fore*maft for
August, the Felice, who, as we have related, had
fprung her*s very foon after our departure
from Samboingaii.

The feafon for retiring from the American
con ft was now approaching; and we had
fufficient bulinefs on our hands to fill up the
interval. Not only the new veflel was to
be launched, manned, and equipped for a
voyage of near fifteen hundred leagues, but
the two fhips were alfo to be prepared for
fea; and when our (ituation, as well as the
- nature of our refources are confidered, we

muft be allowed to have had no fmall diffi-
culties to encounter ; and that,*from having
conquered them, we have fbme claim, at
leafl, to i'he praife that is due to unremitting
induflry, and rcfolute perfeverance.

A new fult of fails was foon completed
for the vei!l°:l on the flocks, which, as fhe
was to be rigged as a fchooner, was the
more readily accomplifhed ; but, independent
of her florm-fails, this was all we could do
for her in that branch of rigging.

Being, however, thus far, and thus hap-
pily advanced in our feveral preparations for
our approaching voyages, it becan^e a matter

343

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

of immediate confideration to form the ne- 1788.
ceflary arrangements of the two (hips, not August.
only for the prefent feafon, but alfo for the
cnfuing year. A very valuable cargo of furs
had been colle<Sted, which it was our intereft
to tranfport to market with all poflible dif-
patch ;— it was, therefore, determined that
the Felice, as foon as the new veflel was
launched, (hould direftly proceed to China;
and that the Iphigenia, with the fchooiier,
ihould remain to profecute the general ob-
jefts of our commerce.

This arrangement being fettled, every
exertion was immediately made to prepare
the Felice for fea. For this purpofe the
fail-makers began upon her rigging, and the •
caulkers applied themfelves to her upper-
works, which, as well as her bends, were
very leaky. As it was more than probable
that we (hould enter tiie China Teas at a very
tempeftuous feafon of the year, we were
very attentive to the making every neceflary
provilion for that, as we did for every other
poflible exigency of the voyage. In fliort,
we followed up this bufinefs with fuch un-
remitting and a£live induftry, that by theg^p^jj^p^^
4th of September the (hip was ready for fea, Thurfday 4

Y 4 having

244 VOYAGESTOTHE

1788. having got her head fore-maft in, and being
SEi'TBMBER. Completely ftored with wood and water.

The natives now began to make prepara-
tions for retiring from their prefent fituatlon
into the more interior part of the Sound ;
and we daily faw fome of their embarkations,
which we have defcribed in a former chap*:
ter. On the 7th, Maquilla and Callicum
paid us a vifit, to notify in form, that, in a
few days, they, with all their people, (hould
• remove to the winter refidence, which was

near 30 miles from the (hip, and as many
from the fea.

On receiving this information, we thought
it incumbent on us to form fome difpofitions
concerning the exiled crew. Their fufFer-
iiigs applied themfelves very forcibly to our
piry ; and the humility of their folicita-
tions, with their imploring promifes of fu-
ture fidelity and good behaviour, were not
without their efFed. But it required all the
reflc6lio> we could beftow on the fubje^t,
to form a right judgment how to a.&. in a
crifis where individual feeling, and profef-
fional duty had much to fettle, before .a
final decifion could be made. The leaviiig
. theie unhappy people behind, might have

been

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. g^e

been con (idered as cruelty to them; and the 1788.
receivhig men on board, the return of whofeSEPXEMBEt.
darmg and mutinous fpirit would, to fay no
worfe, impede, if not wholly interrupt the
voyage, — might turn out cruelty to our-
felves.

They had, it is tr\ie, fuffered very feverely
for their paft mi..ondLi6l; and when they
were fummoned to hear our final determina-
tion concerning them, their pale counte-
nances and deje(5led looks, accompanied by
the moil al)je£l declarations of repentance,
difarmed us, at once, of all our refentment ;
and they were received into the (hip on con-
fenting to forfeit the wages already due to
them for nine months fervice,and that their
future pay (hould be proportioned to their
future good behaviour. To thefe conditions
they joyfully fubmitted, and once more
joined their comrades, after an interval, in
which they had known nothing but morti-
fication and diflrefs. The power which was
exercifed in depriving thefe men of the wages
due to them previous to their villainous at-
tempt to feize the (hip, was founded in
ftridl jullice : for, without confidering the
wickednefs of their defign, and the fatal

con-j

\Lr'^

1: "'"

• I

2^5 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. confequences which would have attended
sirTBMBER. the completion of it, their having prevented
the (hip from putting to fea, for the benefit
of their employers, by which interruption a
confiderable lofs was fuflained, was alone
fufficient to juftify an a(St, which would make
them (harers in the lofs that they had oc-
cafioned.

On our arrival at China, however, the
whole of the wages which they had for-
feited, was beftowed upon them by the com-
miferating generofity of the owners.

We could not, after all, exercife too much
precaution in again receiving thefe dangerous
people amongft us. We indulged our dif-
pofitions to lenity with an apprehenfive
fatisfa£lion ; and, in order to leflTen the
poflibility of mifclnef, we diftributed them
among the two crews, which leflened, at
leaft, the power of communication with each
other. The boatfwain, whofe condud had
been marked with previous difobedience, and
who was the ringleader of the mutiny, was
excepted from the general amnefty. It was
thought to be neceffary, at all events, to
make him an example ; more particularly
as we now difcovered that he had added theft

P-TT

5.SH!ea*9l_

^ *

NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.

347

to his other offences. He was accordingly 1788.
put under conHnennent in the houfe on {here, septembk*.

Thus was this very dlfagreeable bufinefs
finally fettled : but had we been lefs fortu-
nate in the firft difcovery of the mutiny ;—
in fhort, had we been at fuch a diflance
from the (hip, as not to have heard the firft
alarm on the occafion, the confequences
would certainly have been deftrudive of the
voyage, aud might have proved fatal to our-
felves.

• Maquilla and Calllcum now came to take
their farewell of us, as they were going to
depart for the place of their winter refidence,
and delivered themfelves on the occafion in
the warmeft language, and with the mofl
expreflive looks of friendfliip. They knew
that we were fhortly to quit their coafl, and
exprefli'ed very afft^tionate wiflies for our
return. Maquilla entreated us again and
again, whenever we propofed to get the little
mamatlee or (hip into the water, to fend to
him, and he would come down with all his
people to give us the neceflfary afliftance.
They had, indeed, been conftantly antici-
pating the difficulty that would attend us, as
they exprelied themfelves, in pufhing the
3 vefTel

) I

»:'^'

■Sf|

vV-

-.g VOYAGES TO THE

1788. vefTel into the water, whenever (he fhould
Sbftember. be compleated. Thefe chiefs had paid a very
regular attention to theprogrefs of her con-
ftrudion, from the very beginning, to her
prefent flate of approaching completion ;
but without difcovering any thing like the
intelligence which grew up, as it were, and
daily unfolded itfelf in the mind of Tianna,
Whatever opinion, therefore, we had
formed of the capacity ' of thefe chiefs for
the fentiments of friendftiip, we thought it
prudent, with a view to our future interefts,
as prefents had firft obtained it, to fecure
the continuance of it, if polfible, by the
fame prevailing influence. — We accordingly
prefented Maquilla with a mulket, a fmall
quantity of ammunition, and a few blan-
kets. Nor did Callicum leave us without
receiving equal tokens of our regard.

We made thefe chiefs fcnfible in how
many moons we fhould return to them ; and
that we (hould then be accompanied by
others of our countrymen, and build more
houfes, and endeavour to introduce our man-
ners and mode of living to the practice of
our Nootka friends. — This information
feemed to delight them beyond meafure;

and

iL-

■*'*.«i™., V— .

jasfc ■■ ;■ —'S ;

tr»*-«--

Ut#^M^.~A^Hj

**%

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

349

and they not only promifed us great plenty 1788.
of furs on our return, but Maquilla thought September,
proper, on the inflant, to do obedience to us
as his lords and fovereigns. He took off his
tiara of feathers, and placed it on my head ;
he then drefled me in his robe of otter- (kins ;
and, thus arrayed, made me (it down on
one of his chefts filled with human bones,
and then placed himfelf on the ground. His
example was followed by all the natives pre-
fent, when they fung one of thofe plaintive
fongs, which we have already mentioned as
producing fuch a folemn and pleafing elTeA
upon our minds. — Such were the forms by
which he intended to acknowledge, in the
prefence of his people, our fuperiority over
him. — We now once more took our leave,
and returned on board the (hip, clad in regal ^ 1

attire, and poffefl'ed of fovereign power. —
We had, however, fcarcely left the chief,
when Callicum came running after us, to
particularife his commiflions, and repeat his
adieu. — There was fomething about this man
fo amiable and afFe£lionate, that I wiihed to
remain with him to the laft ; and I cannot
help relating every trifling circumflance in
this final interview. — He enumerated a long

lift

F^^6tt^i«■

— <»»»*s>Mr~-

2^Q VOYAGES TO THB

1788. liA of articles, that he delired us to bring
SirTiMBiR. him when we fhould return ; all of which
I took down in writing, to his entire fatis^
fa^^ion. Shoes, flockings, an hat, and other
articles of our drefs, were mofl particularly
requeued by him ; and, when I returned
him my afTurance that his wiihes (hould be
gratified in the moft ample manner, he im-
mediately departed, after having taken me
round the neck, and given me a mod affec-
tionate embrace. I felt it then, when I hoped
to fee him again; — and I feel it now— when
I too well know I ihall fee him no more.

Poor Callicum had now, as at every former
period, made known his wants in a particular
manner to me ; but I afterwards found that
the whole village had, more or lefs, charged
the memories of our people, as well officers
as feamen, with their various commildions :
-—nor did the ladies of Nootka forget to make
their claim to our remembrance of them.
And here I cannot but mention, with fbme
degree of pleafure, though mingled, I muft
own, with a preponderating fenfation of
pain, that, on our part, all their feveral com-
miifions were moft minutely executed. The
Argonaut contained them all ; as alfo the

ieveral

:.:t

t-ri-

NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.

35«

fevcral prefents to Maquilla, C.illicum, Wi- 1788.
cananiHi, and the other chiefs to the South- sirTSMsiR.
ward of King George's Souiul, known by
us, as well as thofe to the Northward of it,
who had been dilcovered by the Iphigenia.
The whole of which treafurc had been fe-
ledled and adapted with great care, and the
inoft anxious attention to their fancies, as
well as their neceflities, when (hn was np-
tured by the Spaniards.

It might be confidered, perhaps, as. teAid- •*

ing to leffen tl.»e abhorrent idea ;/h''ch every
Englifliman (hould feel, anr* of wJilch I,
above all others, (hould be ferjllblc, rolptc'c-
ing the audacious and crue) conJudl or the
Spanish officer, by mentioning th' fal- or-
dinate difappointment I felt, when 1 rei^c(?>:;^d
that Maquilla and Callicum did nof enjoy
their harmlefs pride in thofc diiflcs ivhich
had been prepared for them; itL\d thai' the
coffers of Wicananifli were not rilled \vit[;^
thofe vefleh which had been exprefsly, r,nd
at no little trouble, obtained to enrich thera.
I (hall therefore pafs over the c urJons caro^o
provided for our Nootka friends, of v/hich
we and they were robbed by the Spani(h
commander; nor dfilribe the quantity of

. i , caft-

■^ I

,'» <-,;>->>it

I ■

jrj VOYAGES TO THE

,-88. caft-ofF deaths, that we had collefted at
SiPTEMBER. China, and loaded with buttons to fuit their
fancy ; and of which the Spaniards poffeffed
themfelves with fuch avidity, as if they
were in want of this wardrobe, which was
deftined for the favages of Nootka, tocloath
far greater barbarians.

Comekela, of whom we never entertained
a very favourable opinion, and of whofe de-
' ceitful conduct we had ample proof, not*
withftanding our kindnefs to him, while he
was at China, during his voyage from thence*
and after his return to Nootka, confirmed
us in our opinion of his ingratitude, by
leaving the Sound, without Ihewing us the
' ^ leafl mark of attention or refpedt: — He
therefore loft, as he deferved, the prefent
which was refer ved for him ; and we fuf-
fered him to depart without any token of
remembrance from us.
Wcdnefdayi7 We Continued our operations, without the
intervention of any particular circumftance,
till the 1 7th of September, when a fail was
feen in the offing, which rather furprized
us ; and we were not without ourapprehen-
fions that it was the Princefs Royal, who
had met with foms accident that obliged her

?aed at
ait their
)offe(red
if they
ich was

cloath

ertained
lofe de-
)f, not*
^hile he
thence^

1 firmed
de, by
; us the

:— He

prefent

ve fuf-

>ken of

out the
iftance,
ail was
rprized
)rehen-
l, who
jed her
to

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2C3

to return. The long-boat was immediately 1788.
fent to her afliftance, which, inftead of the September.
Britifli veflel we expe£ted, conveyed into the
Sound a floop, named the Walhington, from
Bofton in New England, of about one hun-
dred tons burthen.

Mr. Grey, the mafter, informed us, that
he had failed in company with his confort,
the Columbia, a Ihip of three hundred tons,
in the month of Auguft, 1787, being equip-
ped, under the patronage of Congrefs, to
examine the Coaft of America, and to open
a fur-trade between New England and this
part of the American Continent, in order
to provide funds for their China (hips, to
enable them to return home teas and China
goods. Thefe veflels were feparated in an / j ;

heavy gale of wind, in the latitude of 59°
South, and had not feen each other fince the
period of their feparation ; — but as King
George*s Sound was the place of rendezvous
appointed for them, the Columbia, if Ihe
was fafe, was every day expe£ted to join her
confort at N cot k a.

Mr. Grey informed us that he had put

into an harbour on the Coaft of New Albion,

where he got on fhore, and was in danger of

V01-. I. Z ' being

'%-d

• y<V'

*^4 VOYAGES TO THE . "

1788 being loft on the bar : he was alfo attacked
September, by the natives, had one man killed, and one
of his officers wounded, and thought himfelf
fortunate in having been able to make his
cfcape. This harbour could only admit vef-
fels of a very fmall fize, and muft lie fome-
where near the Cape to which we had
given the name of Cape Look-out.

The m.ifter of the Wafhington was very
much furpriz'ed at feeing a veflel on the
ftock-i, as well as on finding any one here
before him ; for they had little or no notion
of ajiy commercial expeditions whatever to
this part of America. He appeared, how-
ever, to be very fanguine in the fuperior ad-
vantages which his countrymen from New
. England might reap from this track of
;. trade ; and was big with many mighty pro-
jeds, in which we underftood he was pro-
tected by the American Congrefs. With
thefe circumftances, however, as we had no
immediate concern, we did not even intrude
an opinion, but treated Mr. Grey and his
lliip's company with politenefs and att:en-
tlon.
Saturday 20 On the 20th, at noon, an event, to which
we had fo long looked with anxious expec-
' i ' tation,

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA;

355

tation, and had been the fruit of fo much 1788.
care and labour, was ripe for accompliih- September,
ment.- The veflel was then waiting to quit
the ftocks ; and to give ^ll due honour to
fuch an important fcencj we adopted, as far
as was in our power, the ceremony of other
dock yards.— As foon as the tide was at its
proper height, the Englilh enfign was dif-
played on (hore at the houfe, and on board
the new veflel, which, at the proper mo-
ment, was named the North Weft America,
as being the firft bottom ever built and
launched in this part of the globe*

It was a moment of much expeftation.
— The circumftances of our lituacion made
us look to it with more than common hope.
— Maquilla, Callicum, and a large body of
their people, who had received information
of the launch, were come to behold it. The
Chine fe carpenters did not very well con-
ceive the laft operation of a bufinefs in which
they themfelves had been fo much and fb
materially concerned. Nor (hall we forget to
miention the Chief of the Smdwich Iflands,
whofe every power was abforbcd in the bu-
finefs that approached, and who had dcter-
mined to be on board the veflll when (lie
. . y Z 2 glided

V*-"' * ' . ' " ■~« ii" ■

^^5 VOYAGES TO THE '^ »

1788. gWded Into the water. The prefence of the
siPTEMBER. Americans ought alfo to be confidered, when
we are defcribing the attendant ceremonies
of this important crifis ; which, from the
labour that produced it, — the fcene that fur-
rounded it, — the fpedtators that beheld it,
and the commercial advantages, as well as
civilizmg ideas, connefted with it, will at-
tach fome little confeqoence to its proceed-
ing, in the mind of the philofopher, as well
as in the view of the politician.

But our fufpenfe was not of long duration ;
— on the firing of a gun, the veffel ftarted
fiom the ways like a (hot. —Indeed {he went
off with fo much velocity, that fhe had near-
ly made her way out of the harbour ; for
the fa£t was, that not being very much ac-
cuftomed to this bufinefs, we had forgotten
to place an anchor and cable on board, to
bring her up, which is the ufual pra(SliiEe on
thefe occaiions : the boats, however, foon
towed her to her intended ftation ; and in a
Ihort time the North Weft America was
anchored clofe to the Iphigenia and the
• Felice. . . . ^ : -■ . - .■■:-; V -

Tianna, who was on board the veffel at
the time of her being launched, not only faw,

. # but

:e of the
;d, when
•emonies
rom the
that fur-
eheld it,
J well as
will at-
proceed-
, as well

uration ;
1 ftarted
{he went
lad near-
our ; for
nuch ac-
orgotteu
oard, to
adtiise on
foon

and in a
rica was

and the

vefTel at
inly faw,
but

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cA&iM.dti:

^ ,' Heinj^ tie firstVe/sel that tvas ever hutit in

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fsei that was ever built in that part t^ the Oio^e.

hi^.'ifij/^o.fyJ.Watt/'ri^Son.Vf'ifi^./'irM^t'/ty.

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H.J'oUartt/iutfrf

. , I

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

^, -"-J*««c-.

357

but

be faid to have felt the

operation, i788#
as if it had been the work of enchantment ; septembbr*
and could only exprefs his aftonifliment by
capering about, clapping his hands, and ex-
claiming Myty, Myty ; a word the moft ex-
preffive in the language of the Sandwich
Iflands^to convey wonder, approbation, and
delight. The Chinefe carpenters were alfo
in an almoft equal degree of aftonifhment, as
they had never before been witneffes of fuch
a fpe£tacle. Nor were the natives of the
Sound, who were prefent at this ceremony,
Icfs imprefled by a feries of operations, the
fimpleft of which was far above their com-
prehenfions. In (hort, — this bufinefs did not
fail to raife "s ftlll higher in their good
opinion, and to afford them better and more
correal notions than they hitherto poffeffed,
of the fuperiority of civilized, over favage
life. \

A commander, officers and crew, were
immediately feledled from the Felice and
Iphigenia, to navigate the North Weft Ame-
rica ; and each of the fliips fent her propor-
tion of ftores on fhore, to equip her for fea.

And here, I truft, it will not be confidered
19s an impertinent digreffion, if I exprefs my

gra-

*»Sv.. ..

ill

£j "- *% j^

-*8 VOVAOE8TOTHB

1788. gratitude to that example of profeflional ri-
SirTiMBift. gor and perfcvcraiice, which in my early
years were fet before me, on the oppofite fide
of this continent, where ability and courage
alleviated, in fome meafure, the chagrin of
unfuccefsful war. The campaigns in Cana-
da owe their only honour to the naval war-
fare on the lakes of that country ; and it
was my good fortune, when a youth, to be
enured in fuch a fchool, to the hardships
and difficulties of naval life, and to learn
there, that temper and perfeverance muft be
added to profeflional knowledge, in order
to furmount them. — I am ready to acknow-
ledge that, for the little (kill I may poflefs,
as a profeflional man, as we.W as the patience
1 have exerciled, and the perfeverance which
I have exerted, in this or any other voyage,
I am indebted to the rigid difcipline which
necefTarily arofe from the continual adlion,
hazard and confli<St of the fervice in which
I was firft engaged.— Some little experience
has convinced me that dangers and difficul-
ties form the beft fchool of maritime educa-
tion ; and he that has been fo employed as
to have feen every thing, and fo circum-

ilanced

the

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.

359

{lanced as to defpife nothing, cannot fail of 1788.
rendering fervice to his country. Septembi*.

On the 24 th, the Felice being ready forwednefdayu
fea, the orders marked N° V. in the Ap-
pendix, were given to Captain Douglas, to
dire<ft his future proceedings. — The North
"Weft America was added to his command,
and Tianna once more embarked on board
the Iphigetiia, as fhe was dcftined to carry
him to the Sandwich Jflands.

This arrangement was preferred after fome
deliberation; for 1 myfelf felt a ftrong in-
clination to reftore the amiable chief to his
country ; but as I con Id nut remain more
than a few days at the Sandwich Iflands,
and as the I phi gen ia was deftined to winter
there, it was thought a more expedient mea-
fure to fend him home in her ; as it would,
in a particular manner attach him to her
people, and, of courfe, promote their com-
fort and fecurity during the time, which
would probably occupy feveral months, of
their ftay there. Thefe reafons were fuffi-
cient for us, on account of the general in-
tereft of the expedition, to return Tianna to
the Iphigenia ; — but there were alfo other

reafona

^ i»-

**»

• .1'

' S^

wimm

rli1l''''r"'lWirtiilWtn

I- I

960 VOYAOB8 TO THE

1788. reafons for purfulng this meafure, for his
piPTEMflf*. own fake.

We liad been informed by one of the vef-
fels which returned to China from the Sand-
wich Iflands, fubfequent to us, that Tianna's
brother, Taheo, fove reign of Atooi, was
become fo fearful of the power he might ac-
quire from us, as to meditate his deflruc-
tion ; and that, in all probability, fome
fecret attempt would be made on his arrival
to cut him off. It was neccfl'ary, therefore,
for the prefervation of Tianna, that he (hould
be taken back in that vefTel, which, by her
long ftay there, might enfure his fafety, till
the jealous fit of his tyrant brother was palled
away, and a perfect reconciliation had taken
place between them.

We now fent all the ftores we could pof-
fibly fpare on board the Iphigenia ; and, in
return, received her cargo of furs. We alfo
took on board a confiderable quantity of fine
fpars, fit for top-mafts, for the Chinefe mar-
ket, where they are very much wanted, and
of courfe proportionably dear. Indeed, the
woods of this part of America are capable
th thefe valuable materials

of fupplying with thefe
all the navies of Europe,

lit

NORTH. WEST COAST OF AMERICA. g^]

In the evening the officers, &c. of the Iphl- 1788.
gcnia and the North Weft America came on^ip tembi*.
board the Felice to bid us farewell. Tianna
was not the laft to Oiew us that mark of
his regard ; — and indeed, to do juAice to
his amiable difpofition and friendly nature,
whenever kindnefs could be (hewn, or ge-
nerofity exprefTed, he was among the firft.—
Nor could he fay adieu to Noofa, the name
\iniverfally given me both in America and
the Sandwich Iflands, without a frame al-
moft convulfed with agitation, and tears
gufhing down his cheeks. — Nor could I,
though proceeding to complete my voyage
with the falroft hopes of fuccefs, take my
leave of that worthy man, and the com*
panions of our toilfome enterprife, without
emotions that required all my refolution to
fupprefs.

Neither fliould I do juftice to the condu£t
of thofe employed in this commercial expe-
dition with me, if I did not mention the
alacrity which was difplayed by the officers
of every denomination, — and, indeed, by all
the inferior people,— to acommodate thfem-
felves to our peculiar circujnftances. It was
neceflary to have feveral changes among the

Vol. I. A a crews

262 VOYAGES TO THE

1788. crews of both fliips, in ordef to give a pro*
SiPTEMiiR. per complement of officers an J men to the
North Weft America, in which the general
intereft of the expedition was alone confidered
by all ; — and I think it my duty to record
on this grateful page, the fenfe I have of,
and the advantages their employers received
from, their manly and accommodating con^
du£t on the occafion.

We now hove up the anchor, and, with
a ftrong wind blowing from the North Weft,
the Felice put to fea. — The crews of the
Iphigenia and the North Weft America gave
us three cheers at our departure, which awa-
kened every echo of Friendly Cove. We
returned the fame animating adieu ; — and,
before it was dark, had almoft loft light of
Nootka Sound.

It may not be improper juft to mention,
that the day after the arrival of the American
veflel at Nootka Sound, the difcarded boat-
fwain broke from his confinement, and
cfcaped, with feveral articles he had ftolen,
into the woods, with a view to obtain pro-
tection from the Waftiington ; in which, as
• we have (ince been informed, he fucceeded.

For

! ■[

NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^

For the mafter of that veflel, with what 1788.
propriety I (hall not pretend to obferve, not Ssf lamin,
only fent him provifions to his hiding-place
in the woods, but, immediately on the de-
parture of our (hips, received him on board
his veflfel^ iii which he did duty before tho

1 f

■' ^ ',.

PND op VOLUME I,

I I

<^,Mlr«^ 4'*J»*''