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I' J M^ THE THIRD EDJTIOX, IMPROVED. LONDON: PRINTED FOR DARTON, HARVEY, AND DARTON, . cracechurch-stheet. I8I9. i I ADVERTISEMENT. XHE variety of natural productions in North America, both animal and vegetable, and the connexion it formerly had with this country, give it a peculiar claim to the notice of British youth ; a consideration that has induced the author to attempt a gene- lal description of it, in the form of a tour, adapted to the taste and capacity of young readers. When the difficulty of selecting from such a fund of materials is considered, she trusts she shall obtain the same indulgence she has been favoured with on former occasions. She considers it a sanction to the work to acknowledge, that the chief sources of her information have been derived from Jeffer- son, Weld, Rochefoucault, Bartram, IMi- chaux. Carver, Mackenzie, Heme, and Fearon. 147087 CONTENTS, CONTENTS. — *-^- — mTRODUCTrON. Motive for the Voyage. Arrival in America Letter r. Piiiladelphia. Tavern. Buildings. Inhabi- tants. Carriages. Franiclin g Letter ii. Trade of Philadelphia. Penn. Charitable Institutions. PenaJ Laws. Gaol. Slave-trade. Bene- 2et. Woolman. White Slave Trade. Government 14 Letter ,i,. New Jersey. Treuton. Burlington. Delaware. Dover. Wilmington. Mills. Fences Bridges. Chester. Havre de Grace. Canvass-batk Duck. Roads. Baltimore , ^6 Letteiuv. Washington. Situation. Water commu- lucation. Plan. Alexandria 3, Letter v. Falls of the Patowmac. Adventure Mount Vernon. General Washington. Log Houses.' Taverns, Woods ^ Letter vi. Mr. Jefferson. Monticello. Looming Rock Bridge. Maddison's Cave. Passage of the Patowmac across the Blue Ridge ...,_ 4* Letter vii. Face of the country in Virginia. Cha- racter of the Inhabitants. Tobacco, Richmond Williamsburg. York, Hampton. Norfolk. Houses ^f Inspection * LETTFlt Vi CONTENTS, I r, ^«g«. I^ETTERViii. Houses. Pcrsoiis. Amusements. Code of laws. Trees. Birds. Forest fire 57 Letter ix. Vicinity of Norfolk. Dismal Swamp. Turkey-buzzard. Fire-flies. Wild fruits. Unhealthy climate. Moss 62 Letter x. Carolina. Newbern. Charlestown. Quays. Streets. Houses. Manners. Funerals. Laws. Slavery. Kice-swamps. South Carolina. Fossils. Schools. Indigo. Cotton 57 Letter XI. Snakes. Caimans. VVomen. Planters. Ne- groes. Negro Market. Cassar. Winter season. Yellow fever 73 Letter XII. Savannah. Defeat of Monsieur De- staing. Classes of the inhabitants of America. Bor- derers. Sunbury. Catherine Islands. Shrubs. Ani- mals. Opossum. Racoon .-,...., 80 Letter xiii. Geographical situation. Alatamaha river. View of the country. Fishing party. Storm. Vegetable productions. Sand-holes. Ogeechee limes. Uncultivated tract. Ananas. Tortoise. St. Mary's River. St. John's River. Indians 88 Letter xiv. Excursion into the interior part of the country. Forest . Laurel magnolia. Palmetto royal. Moss. Cypress. Eagles. Perroquets. Hibiscus. Sea pelican. Water-fowl. Cray-fish. Allegator. Indian village. Butterflies 94 Letter XV. Islands of sea-weed. Snake-bird. Ephe- mera. Garr. Bream. Taskawila. Indian reception. Persons. Feast. Town. Houses. Situation. Siminole horses. Cattle. Deer. Public entertainment 102 Letter 73 Page. Code • • • « 57 ramp, altliy * • • • • o« uays. very, lools. 67 Ne- ason. De- Bor- Ani- naha orm. imes. ary's > • . . • Co f the 3yal. Sea dian .... 94 phe- tlon. inole .... 102 Letter 80 CONTENTS. vii I Puce Lktter XVI. Face of the country. Natural basins of water. Siminole Indians. ItiverSt. Juan. TraflSc. Canoes. Encampment. Apalachuela. Town of Blood. Talassee. Mobile. Tensacola 109 Letter xvir. Indians. Muskogees. Persons. Wo- inen. fJospitality. Ancient towns. Barrows. Vir- tues, Anecdotes. Logan. Silouee. Government. J^t-ligion ., jjQ Letter xviii. Pearl River and Island. New Or- Jeans. Mississippi. Manchac. Indian village. Can- dleberry-mrytle. Natches. Journey to Nashville. Trees, Ginseng. Animals. Squirrel hunting 126 Letter XIX. State of Tenessee. Situation. Riverc. Mountains. Brooks. Cotton. Tenants. Churches. East Tenessee. Maize. Cattle. Plantations. Roar- ing River. Indians. Milestones. Knoxville \ZQ Letter XX. Cherokee Indians. Persons. Love of li- berty. ; Aged Chief. Sorrel-trees. Plantation. Cry- stals. Jonesborough. Allegany Mountains. Sala- mander. Bear hunting. Journey. Morgantown .... J42 Letter xxr. Kentucky. Situation. Barrens. Man- ners. Schools. Produce. Horses. Cattle. Wild tur- keys, llasrcdsburgh. Lexington 149 Letter xxrr. Paris. Millesburgh. Saltworks. Licks. Mammoth. Indian oration. Washington. Embark on the Ohio. Voyage to Pittsburgh. First settler. Maii.iers. Muscles. Cat-fish. Point Pleasant. Towns, Marietta. Plane-tree. Face of the country. 154 Letter xxiii. Pittsburgh. River Monongahala. River Allegany. Ligonier's Valley. Azalea. Bed- ford. yjjj CONTENTS. ford. Cones of the cucumber-tree. Slnppensburgh^''^'' Carlisle. York. Lancaster ^^^ j^j LKTrrR XX. V. Trees. Harrisbnrgh. Sunburv. Nor- thuMiberland. Anecdote. I3ethldiem. Mo'ravians. ^aston. Mineral spring, Morristown. Falls of the iocaik. Copper-mine. IVaches. Red Fruit. View of New York. Arrival in that city ,5,^ lETTER XXV. New York. Broad Way. i-reedom of religious sentiments. Markets. Charitable institu- tions. Slaves. Trade. Foundation of the colony. Long Jslaad. Character of the inhabitants. Curious ^egro. Environs of New York. Succession of towns to Boston 178 Letter XX vr. Travellers in the stage waggon. Pot. ash. Goffand Whaley. Connecticut. First Settlers. Schools. Rhode Island. Cheese. General Green. Boston. Harbour. Islands. Monument. Trade ^ea-otter. Fur-trade •• 187 Letter xxvii. Lynn. Salem. Persecution of pitches. Marblehead. Beverley. Drying stock-/ish. Gloucester. Newbury Port. River Merri.nack. Small towns. Piscataqua Bridge. Portland. River Kennebeck. Wood-cutters. Happy farmers J93 Letter xxviii. District of Maine. Poverty of the inhabitants. Trees. Animals. Penobscot. Meet an acquaintance. Nantucket. Sancho. Whalers 199 Letter xxrx. Voyage to Boston. Artists and great men. Appearance of the country. River Connecti- cut. Northampton. Pittsfield. Shakers. Mineral Spnng. Albany ^^^ Lettek CONTENT*. I '^ l^ITTER XXX. Cohoz. CaHr^rf r ^'«<"- . spnn Saratoga. T J^TeL"^^^^^^^^^ canoe. S(. JoWs. A new acquaintance gig Letter xxxi. The adventures of a traveller taken captive by the Indians ...'. . ^''" 222 unera, :,""" .T""^' "'"""^"'- ^•^"-"'"l- W e C, r ^^^'°'""'"- ■•"--y '0 Quebec. 2J<* canoe r, ?'" ' P"'""''" "'"<"-^i''"»- Birch FlrVvf '• ^'"''S«- Climale. Fur-trade 545 '■: , ^'»CI>,„e. Cockanonaga I„dian, Cana- dmn boatmen. Rapids, ilii, of Cedars. Lake: a •• 235 ^tlrirN-"''"' '^'"«"°™- '^''y='8«-ro.sLakeOn- ano. N.agara. Ague. Fare. India,, mode of /is - ■ng. Excu,-s,on to the Falls of Niagara . ,,^0 ''"dYal '«:: '"^''"- ^'Seon-shoo.i„g. Seneka ^ Indians. Blow-gun. Bear-hunting. Spruce ohea- san s. Fort Chippeway. Block-h^use.' F^t E Bad accommodations . '^^-ne. 269 Letter i CONTENTS. Page. Letteu XXXVII. Voyage across Lake Erie, Islands. Detroit River. Siiperintendant of the Indian De- partment. District of Maiden. Distribution of presents 276 Letter xxxviii. Detroit. Fruit. Provisions. In- dians. Surnames. Ingenuity. Geography. Burying th.. ..atchet .....-« ,. 283 Letter xxxix. Lake Huron, Saganaum Bay, Thun- der Bay. Trade of Michillimakinaek. Origin of the fur-trade. Coureurs des Bois. Military por's. Small- pox. North Company. Articles of exchange. Voyage of the traders. Embarkation. Voyage to Michillimakinaek. Departure from that place . . 288 Letter xl. Voyage to Fort Chepewyan. White- fish. Lake Superior. Fruits. Fine view. Winter residence. Fishery 295 Letter xli. Departure from Chepewyan. Ice. Musquitoes. Moose-deer. Rein-deer, Beavers, Island. Red-knife Indians. Small berries, Indian lodges. White partridges. Mackenzie's River. Horn Mountain. Indian encampment. Dog-rib Indians. Bears. Small white buffaloes. Aged In- dian. Scattered parties of Indians. Hare Indians. Quarrellers. Divided channel. Relics of the Esqui- maux. Face of the country. Animals. A grave. Tide. Whales. Creek. Return. Place of sepulture. Dear-pound. Solitary female. Superstitious Kniste- ncaux. Chepewyan 306 Letter xlii. Departure for the south-westward. Peace Point. Face of the country, and animals. Frost= Forts The Swan= Stran<»e Indian custom^ Indian Page. lands. R De- 011 of 276 s. In- jrjing • • • • t • «^0u Tl.un- of the Sniall- lange. ige to :e .. 288 Vhite- V inter 295 CONTENTS. jjj Indian manners. Continue the voyage. Bears' Den^"^"' islanus Elk-snare. 'Jangerous adventure. Trees Divided River. l,Hi,ans. liirds. Canoe stnkes. Crew murmurs, DifllcuUies 337 Letter xon. Re-embark. Rocks. Extreme diffi- culties. Indian house. Fishing machine. Commu- n.cat.on with strag^hng tribes. Subterranean house, lilind Indian. Alarm of the natives. Fare Leave the canoe. Land journey. Various tribes. Manners Ked-fish men. Village. Natives. Manners* lare. Snow-topped mountains. Village. Friendly Indians. Voyage. Ocean. Station on a rock 343 Letter xliv. Natives. Arrival of a European vessel. Traffic. Meet a friend. General remarks on America ,., Conclusion * • 370 Ice. javers. ndiaii River, og-rib ed In- dians. Esqui- gruve. ilture. Iniste- ^ 306 ward. imals. istom. Indian tNTHODUCTION. A toi cor the act] clin ClU'i but titrn to I thar or 1 Frai thur boot tain: EXCURSIONS nr NORTH AMERICA tf /oT? ^-, ^''"^'°" ''^'^ --'"•J^'J the tour of the Bntish Empire, she laid a pkn for the comp t „<- ,„,^^„,^ educatio„,1a:pta the situations she intended for them c ned her to accept the offer of a friend, to pro- b tsf T ' ""'-'« P'-e i" the East IndL; til r .TT'""""^ ^°'"'''"^'' «' 'he sam t.me to unsettle h.s mind, and excite an eagerness to undertake a voyage to America, n,uchLler than she approved of his abandoning his stud ! irankhn I„ ,l,e hours of relaxation, both Ar Aur and Edwia were indulged with 'a variety o" books, calculated at once to instruct and enlr tain: amongst '' - the ese- none delighted Arthur B SO much tnuch as travels, and the description of foreign countries, which he read with the greatest avidity, always placing himself, in idea, in the situation of the hero of the tale, and declaring that, as soon as he should have the direction of himself, he would make a voyage round the world. It happened that Robertson's History of America, amongst others, fell into his hands, which, though he was shocked at the barbarities inflicted on the natives, interested him extremely, and made him earnestly wish to see a country, that had been the scene of such extraordinary exploits; and where the rivers, the mountains, and forests, are upon a grander scale than those in Europe. This work also inflamed him with curiosity to visit the Indian nations that inha- bit the interior of that extensive continent: he longed to see their warriors, and partake with them the pursuits of the chase. Whilst these wishes engaged his attention, Mr. Henry Franklin arrived in England, and havingbeen unaccustomed to the confinement of domestic life, and being free from all connexions but his brother, had no inclination to sit down inactively at home. Soon after his return, a proposal was made to him by a nobleman of high rank, to explore North America, with a view to procure authentic information concerning the customs of the natives, as well as those of the European settlers; the productions of the soil, the animals, the face of the ^ountrv, and in short, every thing that could contribute I foreign avidity, aation of s soon as he would ened that St others, s shocked interested y wish to B of such ivers, the nder scale lamed him that inha- tinent : he with them ntion, Mr. lavingbeen [Toestic life, lis brother, y at home, 3 made to to explore B authentic ;he natives, 2ttlers; the the face of that could contribute jueous St contribute to a co portion of the ter undertaking for wl.icl, he «as particularly oudified by h.s natural endo,.me„ts, habits, and acnuircd knowledge. His understanding was clear, his const.tut.o„ strong, his courage undismayed, his pursuu of knowledge insatiable, and he was in the pnme of life. He had read a great deal travelled much, and observed accurately what he had seen. With a mind so enriched, and a disposi- t.on congenial to the task, he was the man Jecu. harly adapted to his patron's design. The offer was no sooner made than accepted; for how could he refuse a scheme so agreeable to his taste. Dur- ing the short time that was necessary to arrange Ms. Mtddkton-s, where the conversation gene- stance relative to it. Arthur always listened at- tentively to this subject, would often bring the map and request him to trace his intended route; h^ eyes sparkhng with pleasure whilst he mentioned different objects likely to occur .n various parts of the country. ^ His desire to accompany his friend at length be. came so ardent, that Mrs. Middleton changed her views for h.m, and yielded u, his inclination; a measure m which she more eas.y concurred, from the high confidence she placed in the character and conduct of Mr. Franklin. Her consent once ' ^ obtained. n- '. ! J r 4 obtained, Arthur's joy was excessive; he could speak" on no other topic but his journey: sleeping or waking, his mind was full of the same images, and in his dreams he was continually accompanied by Indians, or people in grotesque habits, pursuing some wild animal through the pathless deserts. Every preparation being adjusted, and the vessel in which they were to embark ready to sail, an af- fectino" parting took place between Mrs. Middleton and her son, with many injunctions from her, and entreaties from his sisters and brother, to write regu- larly an account of whatever occurred to him, whether he was situated where his letters could be conveyed by mails to England, or not; as an un- broken chain of events might thus be preserved, which might be sent to them in packets, as oppor- tunity offered. Mr. Henry Franklin made a similar promise to his brother, and the moment of separation being arrived, after affectionate embraces on all sides, Mr. Henry Franklin conducted his young charge on board the vessel destined to convey them across the Atlantic to America. ^ The confinement of the ship, the want of variety, each succeeding day being nearly like that which went before it, with the delay of expectation, ren- i dered the voyage insufferably tedious to Arthur ; | and never were his ears more agreeably struck, than with the sailors' cry, of "land, land," as the shores of the Delaware were first perceived, | hke i he could : sleeping le images, conipanied , pursuing ^serts. i the vessel sail, an af- Middleton m her, and write regu- d to him, 's could be ; as an un- preserved, , as oppor- de a similar f separation aces on all his young to convey t of variety, that which station, ren- to Arthur ; ibly struck, , land," as t perceived, like '^?f Hke a small blue cloud at the edge of the ho- rizon. As they drew nearer, the tops of trees became nsible, and resembled small islands ; till, by deorecs the majestic forest was seen clothing the shores to the bnnk of the water. Arthur would gladly have been put on shore, but the captam dared not to infringe a law, (enacted on -count of the dreadful pestilence, that raged n Pluladelph,a m 1793, and has so often deso- lated u smce,) that no person shall leave any helhh " '''"' ^'"""'""' ^y ""^ "'"™'- '>*■ Having surmounted all delays, they at length put the.r feet o,. that vast continent, (which was not J""7 -n Rurope till 1497, when it was discovered Ph ladelph,a, the ancient capital of the United States wuh emotions „f curiosity and interest scarcely to be described. '"eiest. The captain conducted them to a tavern, as ■,11 .nns are called in this country, wh.re ,h,., ^ ed themselves with repose, change of lien, &c' A day or. two's experience convinced Mr Fr.nk' l;n, that, as he intended to pass son,e tin,; i„ tl c..y, a more comfortable and settled habitation wa necessary. The master of the i„„ recommend" ™ .0 a respectable widow, who kept a boarrnl house for strangers, where he was Igreeably s'";. plied I 1 . i 6 plied with apartments, and every other conveni-. ence. Before he extended his views to any other part of the country, his first care was to see every thing worth notice in Philadelphia, which he did with the hest directed attention, as will appear by the letters transmitted to England. »*'%^*'V% »•**■%***» y LETTER I. Arthicr Middldmi to Ms Bmther Edxvin. PMlaiclphiu. DEAR BROTHER, MY sisters must consider my letters as addressed to them as well as you, for I cannot repeat the same things three times over ; and I must make each of you participate with me in every adventure, whether prosperous or unfortunate. Behold me at last arrived in this great city, hitherto the capital of the United States, though the new city of Washington is now to be the metropolis of the empire. The capacious bay at the mouth of the river Delaware, on which Philadelphia stands, is bounded on the north-west by the state of New Jersey, and that of Delaware on the opposite side. The shores. ^.. M ii J I i: convem- er part of ery thing 1 with the :he letters Iwin. hUadcJfhla. letters as I cannot nd I must in every mate, rreat city, hough the metropolis the river s bounded w Jersey, ide. The shores. shores, both of the bay and the river, are low, and covered with forests, except in a ^gw places, where they are supplanted by extensive marshes. Nearer to Pliiladelphia the shores become more elevated, and, on the Delaware side especially, are enlivened with numberless neat farm-houses, towns, and villages. At a distance, the city makes a noble appear- ance; but the confused heap of wooden store- houses and wharfs, that jut out into the river, gave me a mean opinion of it, on our first ap- proach, which was not improved by the dirt and narrowness of Water-street, through which we passed to our inn. The mention of the inn brings to my recollection my surprise, at being shown into a room already occupied by all the other guests in the house. Mr. Franklin ordered a private apartment, but none was to be had. At night it was far more disagreeable, for we were obliged to sleep in a chamber furnished with five or six beds, and filled with people whose faces we had never seen before. I was so fatigued, that I forgot the whole matter in five minutes; but Mr. Franklin remonstrated with the master of the house, on the impropriety of huddling strangers together in that manner; but without any effect, for he had no idea of such refinement, and said, that it was the custom of the country, to which travellers must submit. The city is built according to a most beautiful and ! ; !i I) ,1 B and regular design, with the streets intersecting each other at right angles, as we are told many other American towns are. At the point where the two principal streets cross each other, is erected a marble rotunda, to receive and distribute the waters of the Schuylkill, which is raised by ma- chinery to a level of thirty or forty feet above the highest ground in the city, by pipes, as it is in London. The principal street is one hundred feet wide, the others vary from eighty to fifty: they are all paved with pebbles, having path-ways of red brick, with pumps on each of them, at a little distance from each other, and lamps fixed on the top. Most of the houses are likewise built with brick, some few of wood; and those most re- markable for their elegance are ornamented with a particular species of pale-blue marble, as are many of the public structures, which are also generally ■brick. The State-house is handsome: the legislative bodies hold their meetings in it; adjoining to it are the congress and city halls. The first was used by the congress of the United States, before they held their assemblies at Washington : the senate chamber is handsomely fitted up, but the apartment designed for the representatives of the lower house is entirely plam, and easy of access to every one who chooses to enter it, as the gallery leading to it is open to the street. The president's house is constructed in a whim. sicav 4 I . ntersccting told many oint where , is erected ribute the L^d by ma- above the as it is in indred feet ': they are lys of red at a little ed on the built with most re- ted with a are many I generally legislative g to it are as used by they held e chamber t designed is entirely lo chooses pen to the ti a whlm- sicav 9 bical manner, from the interference of a committee, which was appointed to superintend the building. These wise architects, from the spirit of improve- ment, reversed the stories; so tliat the pilasters, which should have supported the upper apart- ments, seem to be suspended in the air. The places of worship are numerous, and of all •kinds; every religion being tolerated in this coun- try. The church belonging to the Presbyterians is one of the handsomest, being decorated with a portico, supported by six Corinthian pillars. But the African church, appropriated to the use of the negroes, an oppressed race, for whom I feel the warmest compassion, pleased me the most. Here they receive instruction from a clergyman of their own colour; a privilege they scarcely enjoy in any other place. The principal market is very large, neatly ar- ranged, and well supplied with variety of pro- visions. We have been once or twice to the theatre, but the company in the pit have such a disguting cus- tom of drinking wine or porter, and smoking to- bacco, between the acts, that I have no inclination to visit it again. I was better amused at the am- phitheatre, where they show feats of horseman- ship; and we have been introduced to several as- semblies and concerts: for the wealthy merchants live in an elegant style, and imitate the manners of the great cities in Europe: and as there are no b5 Ill li! i 10 titles of nobility, the ladies love to distinguish them- selves by the splendour of their dress and equipages. The young women are generally handsome; but they lose their teeth much sooner than we do, and look old very early. The men are almost always engaged in business, and show a reserve to strangers; though we have met with some very agreeable, intelligent, kind- hearted people, there being a great variety : for the city has been supplied with inhabitants from most of the nations in Europe, who have left their own country with the hopes of making a fortune, and many succeed in this enterprise very rapidly. Mr. Franklin says, there are few instances in history, of a city rising, by such a hasty progress, to so great a height of prosperity, as Philadelphia. We saw an old man who remembers the time when there were but three coaches kept in it, and now the streets are filled with them. He asserts, likewise, that two or three vessels, at most, arrived in a year, with the manufactures of Great Britain; but at present, the commerce is so much increased, that some thousands of ships go out of the port yearly, to different quarters of the globe; forty or fift ^ which double the southern promontory of Af i • to exchange the productions of the United States for the richest commodities of the East, and to enrich the busy inhabitants of both countries by commerce, i he n.odes of religion vary as much as the origin of ihe people; and the Quakers are V\ a • W-% j^ ma .^^ > « <>. ( I jish t1iem« ?quipapfos. omc; but 'c do, and business, we bave nt, kind- r : for the rom most their own une, and \y. Mr. istory, of so great We saw en there now the likewise, 1 a year, but at sed, that : yearly, •fift) of d States and to tries by s much [ers are licfOUSj I # I 1 > I 11 numerous, that having been tlie profession of Wilham IVnn, the first pro]7rietor, who was followed to America l)y many of liis brethren. My taste for natural history has been liighly gra- tified, not only at the curious museum, which con- tains a com])Iete collection of the animals and mine- rals of North America, (and many specimens of the latfer kind r'ome from a copper and zinc mine with- in twenty n.iles of the city,) but Hkewise in a visit to the seat of Mr. William Hamilton, at the Wood- I/inds on the Schuylkill, near the city, where is a superb collection of exotic plants. The late General llamilton was not a relation of this gentleman's. Ihe latter bore a great character for talent and conduct, was an active supporter of General Washington, and, in the latter part of his life, was emment as a barrister; but unfortunately fell a sacrifice to the mistaken notions of honour, in a duel with the vice-president. Burr. The coaches and chariots are much the same as ours in England; but I must give you some ac- count of the light waggons and coachees, which are carnages in common use here. The body of the coachee is rather longer than that of a coach- Ue front of it is quite open down to the bottom' and the driver sits on a bench, under the roof of the carriage: within are two seats for the passen- gers, who are placed with fheir faces towards the horses: the roof is supported by props; it is like, wise open above the pannels on each side of the doors^ .""-^■.■-"^■'.■*.« i IS doors, and, as a defence against bad weather, it is furnished with a leathern curtain, which encloses the open part. The light waggons are very much like the coachees, but they are not so elegantly fitted up, and are large enough to hold a dozen people, which makes them convenient for stage carriages. I was not satisfied, you may be certain, till I had had a ride in each of them. The Philadelphians are indebted to Benjamin Franklin for the establishment of the university, the public library, the hospitals, companies of as- surance against fire, and th^^ Philosophical Society. This great man was the son of a soap-boiler at Bos- ton, and was born in 1706. Having taken a dishke to his father's business, he was apprenticed to his brother, who was a printer and published a news- paper; which gave young Franklin an opportunity of displaying his genius and taste for literature, that excited his brother's jealousy to so great a de- gree, tha the was obliged to leave him; and he under- went many vicissitudes, in attempting to make his way in the world by his own abilities and industry, unassisted by a friend, or the fostering hand of a parent. He was at one time so much reduced, as to wander about the streets of Philadelphia, a stranger to all around him, without employment, or knowing where to find any; eating a dry crust, and quenching his thirst in the waters of the Delaware, with only twopence halfpenny in his pocket. And yet, he rose to be the legislator of America^ cather, it is ch encloses very much ) elegantly »ld a dozen t for stage be certain, Benjamin university, mies of as- cal Society. )iler at Bos- en a dislike ticed to his led a news- )pportunity literature, great a de- d he under- make his d industry, ig hand of ;h reduced, adelphia, a nployment, 1 dry crust, ers of the tiny in his ^gislator of America, IS America, and her ambassador at thecourt of France where he was reverenced as an able negocTator' ^and the father of his country. "^S^ciator, hours of leisure were devoted to the good of mankind. In experimental philosophy he had few equals ; the greatest discoveries in electricity, are the result of his observations. His example, in temperance, mode ration and. economy, assisted by his gazette and IZ tfiu ^^~'' '' ^"^^-^^ '^ ^- ^^' great influence m promoting the morals of his countrymen; and his unostentatious, amiable man- ners, secured him a numerous circle of friends w ^st his politics relative to America, raised ht' many enemies m England, who still execrate h^ memory. But you and I have nothing to dolu political squabbles: virtue is virtue, whether Tn a Ever your affectionate ARTHUR MIDDLETON, I^ETTER Ill I ! . HI i 14 LETTER II. Henry Franklin to his BroiJur. Philadelpfiia, DEAR BROTHER, A VESSEL being ready to sail for England, I gladly embrace the opportunity of making a few remarks on some subjects that have excited my attention. Commerce is the universal occupation of the inhabitants of this city, though many of the mo- nied men employ their capitals in buying and sell- ing land, which is here as much an article of traffic as any other commodity. Philadelphia is the grand emporium of the whole province and adjoining states, collecting from them the follow- ing articles for exportation: charcoal, pot-ash, beer, cider, salt meat and fish, butter, cheese, corn, flour, tallow, candles, linseed, soap, timber, staves, hides, deer and beaver-skins, bark, and pigs of iron. The accommodations for commerce are excellent, the quay being large, and so con- veniently constructed that merchantmen of con- siderable size eaii unload their cargoes without difficulty. There are also several wet and dry docks for building and repairing ships, besides numerous magazines and stores; (the American name r. Philadelphia, sail for ortunity of 1 that have ion of the of the mo- g and selL. i article of adelphia is ovince and the foUow- 5 pot-ash, er, cheese, ip, timber, bark, and comnderce nd so con- ?n of con- ss without : and dry js, besides American name 1 u name for warehouses;) ,o which may be added the advantage derived from the situJio,, „f „e c.ty between two rivers, the Delaware and ,hl Schuylk.,,, which are here about two miles Ip^n It was founded by the celebrated William Pe„n' « 1682. He received a grant of lands on 2 western side of the Delawareffrom the cltL; ft^T i wards erected mto a province called Pennsy vanl rhe wsdom, moderation, justice, and humLity of th.s great man's character, were eminently displayed , -n the plan of his city, the code of laws for thf government of his province, and his upright and generous treatment of the Indians from whom he made the purchase. Their veneration for £ memory ,s so deeply rooted, and their confidence in h.s veracity so unshaken, that, to this day, thev some Quakers are present at the conference- for s»y they, the descendants of William Penn Zl "ever suffer us to be deceived. A more lb" testunony to h.s integrity, than the sculptured bus! or marble monument. There are but fow poor, as may be expected in a CO try where every man, who ejoys he'Cd strength, may earn a comfortable subsistence- but great attention is paid to those few who wa^t i The hospital .s built in .he form of a Roman H and ts under excellent regulations; supplying thj s.ck and mfirm with every necessary S-f t Sides afforrrinn. «„ ....!..„ n , ^ """oic, De- & "" a^jTiuiii lor iunatics, lying-in women, 16 ii^ fi V m women, and children Avho are deserted by their parents. The Bettering House is a kind of workhouse, where empbyment and support are provided for the aged, the destitute, and the friendless. Philadelphia has the honour of giving to man- kind an example of the advantages to be derived from the wise, humane treatment of criminals. By the new penal laws adopted in this state, soli- tary confinement (on some few occasions for twenty-one years, but generally for a much shorter period, proportioned to the nature of the crime, and the behaviour of the offender) is the severest punishment inflicted on any delinquent except a malicious murderer who atones for his crime by his death. Nothing can be better contrived for the design than the gaol, which is a spacious building, of common stone. It is fitted up with solitary cells, each apartment being arched, to prevent the communication of fire. Behind the building are extensive yards, which are secured by lofty walls. The awful silence of the place (for not a word is suffered to be spoken; not a laugh, or the voice of mirth is to be heard ; but a melancholy solemnity pervades the whole) affected the sensible mind of Arthur deeply; he squeezed my hand in his, which I felt was in a cold damp, as we passed through the long ranges of cells, and shuddered at the sound of our foot- steps, which echoed through the passages. What must 17 d by their workhouse, ided for the ng to man- be derived ' criminals. 3 state, soli- casions for uch shorter the crime, the severest It except a is crime by mtrived for a spacious ted up witli arched, to Behind the are secured 3f the place aken; not a heard ; but the whole) deeply ; he elt was in a long ranges of our foot- ges. What must Must these up )or wretches feel, said he, shi trom all converse, some even deprived of ,,ff„r with no other object to occupy the thoughts or^ attention, than the reproaches of their own con science. The punishment, I replied, is terrible to endure but the good of society requires that offen e. should be made an example! to deter others from injurn.g their fellow.citizens; and if tueir sufFenngs tend to their reformation, it has not been mflicted in vain. Upon this, ihe con! ductor assured us of the good effects of the re^u lations observed in this gaol; and told us, that as soon as a prisoner is admitted, he is washed and furnished wuh clean clothes: he is then led to frl th !^'^^^^^"^' -^-- '- -mains secluded from the sight of every living creature but the gaoler who is forbidden to speak to him without absoute occasion. ^ dark celf " ''"'"" "'"^' '^ ^^ ^^"^-^ - ^ The first improvement in the condition of a worT"' ^^^^P---- to do some kind of work; an indulgence prized even by the idle, after they have endured the wearisomeness of soli! tude and privation of employment. On further amendment they are allowed to labour in compa! ny, but still without partaking of the pleasures of c Wr^* """^ -ntenances assuLd a more cheerful appearance, when we saw the variety of aits carried on by those who have attained the liberty ! . «■ 18 liberty of working with others. One room is set apart for tailors, another for shoemakers, a third for carpenters, &c. and in the yards are stone- cutters, smiths, nailers, and other trades that require room. This part of the gaol is more like a manufactory than a prison, and from the decent behaviour of the prisoners, as well as the many instances related of their return to virtue and com- fort, I am led to believe, that this mode of punish- ment is supei ior in efficacy to any other ever yet adopted. The honour of the establishment, pro- tection, and success, of this wise and humane system, is due to the Quakers. A member of their body, named Caleb Lownes, proposed the ex- periment; and such was his perseverance, that he ■was neither to be deterred by scoffs nor opposition, till he had effected it. At length his arguments prevailed with William Bradford, one of the judges, to assist him in this great undertaking; and by their joint endeavours and the Divine blessing, it has attained its present state of per- fection. What trophies are too great to perpetuate the memory of such citizens! That sociable hospitality which makes a stranger feel at home, is not very common here, though we have received successive invitations to splendid dinners, where the table was covered with dainties, and the sideboard plentifully supplied with the finest Madeira. After one of these handsome entertainments, where e room is set ikers, a third Is are stone- trades that I is more Hkc m the decent as the many tue and com- ie of puniah- her ever yet shment, pro- and humane Tiber of their >sed the ex- ince, that he jr opposition, is arguments one of the jndertaking ; the Divine itate of per- o perpetuate es a stranger (, though we to splendid dth dainties, ;d with the ertainments, where 19 where we had been attended by negro slaves, I observed a cloud upon the brow of my yonng Inend, for which I could not account, till he con fessed that the siglit of men who were the pro- perty of their fellow-creatures, and subject to every indignity, excited such painful reflections, that he could not banish them from his mind. I endea- voured to soothe him, by representing that their treatment here is gentle, compared with that exer- cised in the southern states, and in the West Indies- though the efforts that have been made for the abolition of slavery have improved their condition every where. It is indeed to be regretted, that men so ardent m the love of liberty for themselves as the Ameri- cans are, should continue, in any degree, to tole- rate the slave-trade. Many amongst them, how- ever, have used every endeavour to abolish it, particularly Anthony Benezet. He was born at St. Qumtin, in Picardy, in 1712. France at this time suffered from religious persecution, which drove the parents of Eenezet to England, where he embraced the doctrines of the Quakers. He went to America in 1781, and settled at Philadelphia, in a commercial line of business; but that employ, ment being unsuitable to his turn of mind, he quitted it for the instruction of youth, and under- took the management of a school, belonging to the society whose principles he had adopted. From that period, he devoted the chief part of his life to public Il '■hi 20 public instruction, to the relief of the poor, and the defence of the unhappy negroes. The amiable Benezet was warmed with univer- sal philanthropy: he felt a brotherly affection for all men, of all countries, and of all colours. Not contented with persuasion, he composed many books, in which he collected authorities from Scripture and other writings, to discourage and condemn the slave-trade and slavery. The first influence of his works was perceived amongst the Quakers. Many of them determined to emanci- pate their slaves; and the society since has been very active in promoting the abolition. Benezet knew that instruction was necessary for those blacks whose liberty he had procured; and finding few willing to undertake a task that prejudice had rendered contemptible, he determined to devote his own time to the glorious occupation of en- lightening the ignorant and neglected, and his Httle fortune to the establishment of a school for the negroes. The influence of a good example is powerful. Those who had not courage to begin, cheerfully assisted the work; and the school now enjoys a revenue of two hundred pounds per annum. This good man died in 1784; honoured by the tears of the blacks, and the regret of every friend to humanity. John Woolman, also a member of the same society, remarkable for the simplicity of his manners, and his opposition to the slave-trade, united with Benezet and others, in application to the e poor, and with univer- affeclion for jlours. Not posed many mties from :ourage and The first imongst the to emanci- ce has been 1. Benezet i for those and finding ejudice had I to devote tion of en- nd his Hitle ool for the example is e to begin, school now per annum. red by the ^ery friend member of inplicity of ilave-trade, »lication to the SI the British government for the abolition. Time and perseverance have at length effected this good work. America, after gaining her independence, has listened to the cause of humanity. Most of the northern and middle states have proscribed, for ever, the importation of slaves: in some others, this prohibition is limited to a certain time. South Carolina is the only state that continues to receive transported slaves. RJiode Island had a great traffic in slaves, but has totally prohibited it. The abolition, and amendment in the condition of the negroes, certainly advance, though by slow degrees- and It is to be devoutly wished, that in time these improvements will extend to all parts of the world where slavery prevails. It will be interesting to you, my dear brother, to know the steps that have procured these advantages. In 1780, the General Assembly at Pennsylvania abolished slavery for ever; compelled the owners of slaves to have them registered; declared their children free at the age of twenty-eight; placed them, while under that age on the footing of hired servants; and assured to them the privilege of trial by jury. But this was not sufficient to secure to them all the intended advantages: by a second act it was ordained, that no negro should be sent into a neighbouring state without his consent; that all vessels and cargoes employed in the slave-trade should be confiscated- and that all stealers of negroes should be con! demned to the public works. The little stat. .f Delaware J .< t r 92 Delaware followed this noble example. New York has sanctioned nearly the same regulations in their favour as Pennsylvania. A society, con- nected with one in London, and others in the American states, formed for the express purpose of promoting the abolition, has greatly ameliorated their condition, in all respects; especially by af- fording numbers of them a degree of instruction in religion, and the useful arts of reading and writings which they acquire with as much facility as white men brought* up in the same manner. From this information we may encourage the hope, that the time approaches when their shackles shall be removed, and they shall participate with the other races of mankind, in the common benefits of liberty and independence: that, instead of the treatment of beasts of burden, they shall be considered as rational beings, and co-heirs with us of immortality : that a conscientious care of educating their chil- dren in the great duties of Christianity, will pro- duce a happy change from the vices in which, from ignorance and a combination of unfavourable circumstances, they now live, to the practice of religion and morality, and entitle them to rank on an equality with their fellow-creatures. Besides these public acts in favour of the negroes, many individuals have generously given liberty to their slaves; amongst others that have fallen under my notice, I shall mention the instance of Messrs. David and John Barclay, respectable merchant* in Lon- don, I iple. New igulations in lociety, con- hers in the s purpose of ameliorated tally by af- istruction in and writings ity as white ler. From J hope, that les shall be th the other ts of liberty e treatment msidered as mmortality : their chil- y, will pro- i in which, nfavourable practice of 1 to rank on s. Besides jroes, many 'ty to their I under my ?ssrs. David nt€ in Lon. don, don, who received, as an equivalent for a debt, a plantation in Jamaica, stocked with thirty-two slaves. They in)mediately resolved to set these negroes free; and that they might effectually enable them afterwards to provide for themselves, the surviving brother, David, sent an agent from Eng- land to manage the business, and convey them to Philadelphia, having first su[>plied them with all necessaries; where, under the fostering hand of his friends in that city, with the assistance of the Abolition Society, they were apprenticed to me- chanic trades, and the children sent to school to be properly instructed. This benevolent act was rewarded with extraordinary success. Except two, these liberated slaves prospered, and became useful members of the community. Many of those who are free, gain a great deal of money, as I conclude, from a ball given among themselves, at which we were present, where, though all of a sooty black, the company was well dressed, came m coaches, and were regaled with a good sup. per and variety of refreshments. Yet it is greatly to be regretted, that, in many of the states, they are still treated with the most atrocious cruelty and humihatmg contempt. There is another species of bondage practised here, that rouses the indignation of an Englishman. Numbers of European labour- ers and mechanics, in hopes of making a fortune, emigrate to America; and having no money to pay for their passage, or settle themselves, on their arrival r/'. ''itpi' m'. 24 arrival, in any profitable employment, consent to be sold, by the captain or owner of the vessel in whicl, they came, to the highest bid.ler, (or a certain ..umber of year,, the tern, being regulated by the value of their labour. If they understand a trade, they are sold for a shorter time; but if they can only dig, they must endure the hardships „f their condition for a longer pericxl, during which they are so much at the disposal of their masters, that they may sell and re-sell them at their pleasure. Wc saw a whole cargo from England sold a f,;w days ago; and Arlluir was so provoked at the sight of a high-spirited lae biisquehannah river, which takes its source at a gieat distance from the north, and empties itself into the Chesapeak. It is here a mile broad: its higii banks, covered with wood.s, form a grand and picturesque scenery, which is greatly enlivened by tl.e muhmules of wild-fowl sporting i„ the water; particularly the canvass-back duck, so named from he colour of the feathers between the wings: this bird ,s considered by the Americans an exquisite dainty. Being ferried over the river, we travelled along a poor country to Baltimore, rendered still more disagreeable by the execrable roads. For miles the driver was obliged to call to us within- side, to balance the carriage, and prevent it fi^m ove..ettmg, by stretching our necks out of the window, on whichever side it rose uppermost. "Now gentlemen, to the right-now to the left," was continually bawled in our ears. As we were pass Z \ '^Vf "''' •'^ •^""'' - ^"k toThe" very boxes of the wheels. The poor horses plunged and used every effort to set us fl-ee from L qulj "..re, but all m vain. There we sat, fixed and^I expected that we should have been swallowed up distance, who came with bis servants to our assist- ance, ,iiii: ; 1 80 ance, provided with poles and ropes, and delivered us from the danger. Though Annapolis is the capital of Maryland, Baltimore is the largest town m the provmce, and the most considerable place of trade m North America, after Philadelphia and Nevv York. The streets cross each other at right angles: the principal one is wide and handsome. Most of the houses are built of brick, and, bein- modern, are well constructed. On the south side o*f the town is a harbour, called the Basin, which is capable of containing two thousand sail of merchant- men; the shore is lined with wharfs and storehouses English, Scotch, French, and a great many Irish, are to be found amongst the inhabitants, who are' very sociable among themselves, and hospitable to strangers. Dancing is a favourite amusement; the young people frequently make parties at each other's houses, where they merrily dance away the evening. Roads that would have been deemed impassable m England, and a country distinguished neither for fertility nor beauty, brought us to Washington, the new federal city, where we are now staying at the house of a member of congress, who entertains us kmdly. My hand grows tired; so you must forgive me, for adding qnly that I am your dutiful son, ARTHUll MIDDLETON. 31 pes, and delivered Annapolis is the 3 the largest town isiderable place of Philadelphia and ach other at right e and handsome, brick, and, being J the south side of ? Basin, which is 1 sailof merchant- 5 and storehouses, jreat many Irish, ibitants, who are md hospitable to amusement; the es at each other's way the evening. 3med impassable ished neither for iVashington, the V staying at the lo entertains us ou must forgive dutiful son, IDDLETON -Mi LETTER IV. Mr. Henrij FranMn to Edwin Middletoii. Washington, DEAR EDWIN, THE affection I feel for you is not diminished by having crossed the Atlantic; and as I have an inclination to assure you of my regard, I begin a correspondence, without fear of intruding on the province of your brother; since the country we are in, abounds sufficiently in novelty and variety, to supply us both with materials for our letters. I date this from Washington, a city formed upon a vast plan, though yet very far from being completed, and designed to be the capital of the whole empire. Before the separation of the American States from Great Britain, Philadelphia was the seat of govern- ment; but the other provinces growing jealous that Pennsylvania should enjoy this privilege, it was agreed that a federal city, subject to the laws and regulations of congress alone, should be built in an mdcpendent district, where the congress should assemble for the purpose of making, laws, and ma- naging the concerns of government. The choice of situation was left to General Washington, at that time president; and the new city bears his name, as a testimony of the gratitude of ; , 1 it.iration. It was desirable to fix „nnn n jpot .ha. « be oe„.a., ..oved ft.ot XL having the r ' of ?""""r '''"'' '"'""''' =•"'' where W s, „' f ''^'^, "'■'-' ™'"'''"«^'' "' "'c place ten.ue coninuinicatiou, by water m .t, . v river from ,1, , ^''"^ "»"gation of this easy In i "''' '" ''" ^''""^P^"'^' '^ -'''-■ -"' ---,te f Z^r^ ~ ™' i-ge infl U M ^ ■ '"to It at Washinffton «"cl ,. eallcd the Eastern Branch of the Pato.nn ■ From the Great Pall of the Pato.^ac t eT ^ above the c.ty, ,„ Fort Cu.nberland. i„ an opuo »ne a on, the prodigiotis extent of eo:!.!" catKm .s more astonishing. By ascending „„. A egany nver, from Pittsburgh, as far as LVe PeWir..r ^"'' '' ^"^"^' ''^^-^ ^ ,m! f' "■" '""^'"^ "P"" I-ake Erie, only '•fteen mdes, .hence goods may be conveyed ^ land- triotism and wise 'e to fix upon a 'ved from all dan- gn enemy, in a and IieaJth, and supply of provi- )ined in the place s that of an ex- to the most dis- jour map, and nvers, that you of the amazing The Patowmac its rise on the fountains, and, li-ed miles, fa]]s ligation of this -al<, is safe and several large t Washington, the Patowmac. mac there is a ninety miles Jn an oppo- of com mil ni- iscending the far as French distant from ke Erie, only :?onveyed by land- 88 land-carriage. Lake Erie is three hundred miles iong and ninety broad, and communicates with Eake Huron and Lake Michigan; the former, one thousand miles in circumference, the latter not quite so large. Many noble rivers fall into these lakes, after having watered immense tracts of country in various directions, and supplied the means of conimunication to a vast distance. From Prcqu^sle, across Lake Erie to the Falls of Nia gara, where nine miles must be passed over land the navigadon of Lake Ontario, and the great river St Lawrence, is opened on one side; and on the other, that of Lake Superior, by a still shorter and passage, at the Falls of St. Mary. This last lake IS fifteen hundred miles in circumference, and IS supplied by forty rivers. Beyond this, the water c^mmumcation extends to a prodigious distance, through the Lake of the Woods to Lake Winnipeg which IS still larger than that of Lake Supeiir! Compared with these, what are the lakes and rivers of the old world.P-But how I have wan- dered from Washington! It is time to return The city is laid out on a neck of land, enclosed between the Eastern Branch and the main stream ol the 1 atowmac; widiin a territory called Colum- bia, subject to congress only. A magnificent plan was drawn by Monsieur L^Enftxnt, a Frenchman, and approved; but so few parts of it are yet finished, and so many trees remain growing within the ^ ^ boundariesv ill I'l, I I '■I i' IN iin I I ! ! •! 'ijlll'l ' ill I M ^^IfllllM iii iiii 54 .u. W v.,.,es scattered in a wood, t,.n one intfz^^r.rs"Lr^^^^^ ,. . . " cuvicied into squares, or grand dms.ons by streets running fron, nor h to Tol ntersccted by others from east to west. Bes fe th^^^e are very broad streets or avenues, n.n„i iZ,U ■ " '""" '"'P""""' ^1"-- -J pub- lic bu,ld,„gs u, an obliaue direetion, which produce a var,ety of fine p. ,pects. These avenues e bo^ered w.th broad gravel walks, planted wUh ^ees,a„d are named after the states of the union. The squares are very numerous, and are designed «o„als of heroes and memorable transactions. The bouses are all to be of brick or stone, though cloitof "'■ " T'"' "" '" """"'"''' '^"^^ the Cjaol, commanding a complete view of the city and adjacent country. It contains spacious apart! S :; ''-;-7"'°datio„ of the congress, and pubhc offices for the executive department of the government, with the courts of justice, &c. Near Us a fine statue of that great man. General Wash- ington, on horseback. My first visit to congress p'V; of f f ""• . '"'" '^y " - P-ent fom. from th i ' ■"'?"'' "" ^'^"^^ I'-ingincreased Ztv 7T """■'"' °^ "''«^^" '° 'hat of twenty, and each sute, regardless of its population, sending: appearance of a a wood, than one fanfs plan, it is uares, or grand > north to soutli, 3 west. Besides ivenues, running quares and pub- I, which produce ?se avenues are s, planted with es of the union, nd are designed IS, or other me- nsactions. r stone, thoujrh ed for present nee, stands the ew of the city spacious apart- congress, and rtment of the 2e, &c. Near eneral Wash- t to congress present com- ing increased en to that of s population, sending' 35 sending two. The gallery is open to all, without orders from memhurs, or half-a-crown to the door- keeper. The chairman's scat is central, under a handsome canopy; the members are placed on rich scarlet cushions, some at double, and some at single desks. There arc two large fires. The forms°of business are taken from our parliament, with a few minor exceptions. One point of variation, at least, from the British senate, is, that every speech il apparently listened to, and all, whether good or bad, whether marked by superior excellence or y unequalled dulness, seem regarded with equal apathy and complete lifeless endurance, neither applause nor censure being allowed; and it would not be easy to discern which was felt, judgino- from the countenance. ^ The Representative chamber is in the same build- ing, and of about twice the extent. An admission to the gallery is equally easy, and is also open to both sexes. This assembly consists of nearly two hun- dred: they want, in appearance, the age, experience, dignity, and respectability, which we associate with the idea of legislators, and which are possessed by the superior branch of the congress. The interior decorations of this room are marked by an infe riority to the Senate, which is rather anti-repub- hcan: the members sit on very common chairs, at unpainted desks, which are placed in rows • the whole resembling a Lancasterian school, though without its regularity. Some * m i: mi '■in ! iili SG folding up newspapers sl! ' ? '"'"''"S'"- at .1.0 feet of eacl'Je.bf' f "" ''"■'-" ''''"^<^'' practice of the „„nor i? ' ""'"'"■^ "* "'« visitors wear thdr TaL "' "' °""' ""■™'^^- -'' The post-office is a larire Iirl^l I, i r «t about equal distanceriom h ?^' "'""'^'' and .he Capitol. U der"?'""'"'''' '"'""' Patent-oirice. and also he x '„„ tr', '"' " ""-' use of .„e„ber» of cont^^rh /"''/"'""■' departments I w;f„„ , "''"' "'^ "'^s« is small, consisting to S" f ir"' V'' '""'''^ hnt if ; 1 ^ ^^^ thousand voIuniP*? • but It IS select and well diosen. ^^^"nies , The house designed for thr. ,. • i -e stone edifice i.^ie;7^;t:::?''^"''- went is of an oval form P ' ^ T^ "P^"" and the Capitol is ereld a 1 T" , '" '"'''''"^ brick, ornamented SfsllT T ' f""" "^ "^ intended to be embelli hed Tv "' '"'"'' buildings, run fro. 1 Cal, 17 "^ '>"' house, till the, „eet on .^ a L 'Jfr "" where the, terminate. Places are martej' 77' -any „ore noble, useful public buird : r ,,' of them are begun. There is t„ l.» " "' tal, a general Pv,.I " "* ''^ a manne hospi. > " feeneiai exchange, a c fv li^ll i , colleges, marlcet.housesrtheatr;ub£\.ir:^ gardens. Two strea.ns, Reed.; 'Braid: td t Tiber, I mmand attention, ase; the members and in reading or -boxes are placed , contrary to the nee members and Juilding, situated president's house ime roof is the I Library, for the he first of these 3f nine hundred Js. The library usand volumes ; icient is a hand- principal apart- n this building >tel, which is of 'wo fine malls, iety of elegant the president's of the river, narked out for dings, but few marine hospi- ^^h churches, lie walks, and anch and the Tiber, 37 Tiber run through the city, and will sunnlv th. inhabitants amply with water. ^^ ^ "" It is impossible to survey the incomnl ♦ i • vantage, w,.,,out a wan„ .is,, .,„:«. ZlLl permd ,i may arise to tl,at eminence tl,,t is J , , to the head of an extensive e.npi.e .Z^ , , •""' become thescatof ans, ^^^r,^::Jt^:'V"^y a nnle n-om Washington stands Geo I Totv " ing row throucrf, . .j • ' "'' ''"^'^ ^ ^'^^rm- o xuw miough a pleasino- succession «p n i •„ and beautiliil v.UoL • . '""^^^'^'o" of small hills and pleasure-o-rounds ^ ^'^^^^ -'•ms cross at ote :!:,"" ^™^"f•'-^''- - i's .eat^t, eo„ve:i:;riTraEr-r ^or this town LlSir:^^^^^^^^^^^ ."e produce of the back s!tt.e. e f hf w"° Indies, and even to Europe. ^^ "'' Having written a longer letter ,1,0 t • I hasten to conchul,. T ^" ^ ""'^"ded, " Lontludc, and assure vmi .!,„, t "iincerely your's, ^ "'^' ^ am HENRY FRANKLIN. LETTER 11! I '1-1 38 LETTER V. Jrihur Muldhton to his Brother EdivUu IVasJi'ingtoii, DEAR BROTHKR, THE Falls of the Patowmac, a few miles from this city, were too attractive to be neg- lected. Tlie smaller falls do not deserve the name of a cataract; but they cause such an obstruction to navigation, that a canal, a mile and a half long, has been cut to remedy the inconvenience. Above these falls, at a place where the river is confined between mountains, a passage over it is formed by a grand bridge of one arch, an hundred and twenty feet wide. The navigation at the Great Falls is made easy by a canal with ten locks, where the water rushes down with tremendous impetuosity, oyer a ledge of rocks, in several different cataracts,' winding afterwards with great velocity, along the bottom of the precipices, whose rocky crags are so intermixed with trees as to produce a beautiful effect. From want of other materials, or because they are at hand, the people in the neighbourhood build their cottages with fragments of these rocks. A gentleman at Alexandria furnished us with horses, and accompanied us to Mount Vernon, the seat of the late General Washington; an object of • •, \ 39 er Edzohu Wdsh'ingtoii. )wmac, a few live to be ncg- erve the name an obstruction id a half long, ience. Above ^er is confined is formed by }d and twenty ireat Falls is «s, where the impetuosity, ent cataracts, ty, along the ^y crags are 3e a beautiful s, or because ighbourhood hese rocks. bed us with Vernon, the an object of • •, curiosity to those who revere his memory. It stands nine niilus from Alexandria, on the banks of the river; but we were obliged to make a larger circuit by land, on account of the numerous creeks that fall into the Patowmac. We got into the midst of a thick wood, where several roads cross each other: unfortunately, we took a wrong one; it began to grow dark ; and the weather, which had been sultry hot in the day, became very cold, a sudden alteration that is frequent in this climate! Thus uncomfortably situated, we knew not what to do, as we dreaded passing the night in this soli, tary forest. After wandering about two or three hours, I espied a glimmering light through the trees. This raised our hopes. We made up to it, and found it proceeded from a small farm-house, where one of the family was sick : we gained an entrance, and related our forlorn circumstances. The good woman took pity on. us, and regaled us with some salted pork out of her pantry; she then crowded her family two or three in a bed, in order to leave one empty for us, and in the morning sent a negro with us to conduct us to Mount Vernon, which is an eminence, commanding delightful views both of land and water. ' The house is only of wood, painted to resemble hewn stone: it has a long portico, supported by eight pillars. The dwelling-house is in the centre, and the offices are contained in the wings, which communicate by a covered way with the main build- ing. 40 ing. In one of the parlours hung a portrait of the general, said to be a striking likeness. A certain austerity of countenance struck me with awe, as I looked at it: he was rather tall, had a command- ing aspect, a full, broad chest, and strong limbs- his eyes were large and grey, and his nose long in proportion to his face. « You do well/^ said Mr. Franklin, observing my attention fixed on the picture, « to contemplate the features of that true hero, as every thing is interesting that tends to elucidate the character of such a distinguished person. But above all," continued he, "study and imitate his virtues: he was eminent for disinterested- ness, moderation, love of liberty, and real patriotism, in not only rescuing his country from a yoke that he considered oppressive, but when he had attained the height of power, disdaining to assume a rank, that a man of less principle and more ambition might have claimed, as the reward of his services; and contenting himself, like Cincinnatus of old, with a private station, till called again by his fellow- citizens to take the helm of government. His death was honoured with the lamentations of his country- men, who regarded him as the father of their commonwealth. The farmers and common people live in what are called log-houses, because the^^ are made of the bodies of trees, which are roughly squared and placed crosswise one above another; the ere' vices between (hem are stopped with clay, and the roofs !il|t f a portrait of the tiess. A certain le with awe, as bad a command- d strong Jimbs: his nose long in well,*' said Mr. 1 fixed on the res of that true ^ that tends to a distinguished he, "study and 3r disinterested- real patriotism, )m a yoke that he had attained issume a rank, more ambition )f his services ; tusofold, with by his fellow- nt. His death of his country- ither of their live in what are made of ?hly squared, ther; the cre- clay, and the roofs 41 roofs are covered with small pieces of wood, called shingles, cut in the shape of tiles. Two doors, which frequently supply the place of windows, are made by sawing away a part of the trunks that form the body of the house: the chimney, which is always placed at one end of the roof, is also made of the trunks of trees; but the back is made of clay, to prevent fire from communicating to the wooden wall. The doors are hung on wooden hinges, and most of them have no locks, a log of wood being the usual fastening. These simple habitations make an odd appear- ance, and require neither carpenter, bricklayer, nor smith; for there is no iron or nails about them. Two men are sufficient to complete one of them m four or five days, so that a new settler need not be long without a house. The floor is raised a httle above the ground, and covered with planks- two large beds lodge all the family. In the summer the children think it no hardship to sleep on the ground, wrapped in a blanket; though they have been accustomed in winter to sleep on a foather-bed. Drawers are conveniences not often seen in these log-houses: the clothing of the family is hunc. round the room on peg,, or over a long polct Thougli these buildings are not very elegant, I can assure you the inside of a log-house, blazing^ with a large wood fire, is a comfortable sight to a weary traveller on a cold evening. In some places we have travelled throuah wood^ for r I 'I: ior miles together: these woods are composed of oaks, of every species; blaok walnut-trees, used much by the cabinet-makers; tuHp-trees; the Kalm.a, with red blossoms; and, in marshy land cypresses and cedars abound. The appearance of vmes creeping up some of the trees, induced me to look for grapes; but I found it was only a poison- ous weed, that caused my hands to blister and swell very much. Indian corn is frequently cultivated by (he farmers: its tall, yellow heads, when nearly npe, look beautiful; but I feel more pleasure in the sight of wheat-fields, because they remind me of Old England. In whatever quarter of the world I am, believe me always, Your affectionate brother, ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER VI. ArtJmr Middkton to Jiis Sister Catli lerinc. : .ill MY DEAR CIRI,, m„rn,,g,o„. THOUGH I generally address my letters to Edwm, yet I think the objects we have seen, in an excursion to Monticello, so particularly adapted to your taste, that you have a claim to this letter. The 4 /» s are composed of walnut-trees, used tulip-trees; the I, in marshy land, rhe appearance of es, induced me to v^as only a poison- o blister and swell [uently cultivated ^ads, when nearly re pleasure in the ?y remind me of Id I am, believe lier, IIDDLETON. Catherine. Washington. Iress my letters e have seen, in ularly adapted to this letter. The 43 The respect Mr. Franklin had for Mr. Jefferson, as a gentleman, a man of worth, and a scholar^ induced him to accept his invitation to spend a week or two at his house, and see some of the natural curiosities of the mountains which surround it. Mr. Jefferson is thought an able statesman ; he took an active part in the revolution, and was the man said to have penned the declaration of the Ame- rican independence. He was the first ambassador sent by the United States to the court of France, and has avowed himself a staunch republican! But politics are a sui)ject that Mr. Franklin never discusses in this country, as his sentiments differ from the Americans ; and he is neither willing to give offence, nor relinquish his own principles. He esteems Mr. Jefferson as a philosopher, and admires his '< Notes upon Virginia," which have established his character as a man of sense and a good writer. He farms his own estate, which lies amongst the south-west mountains, a few miles from Charlottes, ville, near the head waters of Rivanna river. The house is built on a small plain, upon the top of a mountain that is not very high, and is thought one of the most elegant private habitations in the United States. A fine library and museum extend the entire breadth of the building, and open into a large green-house and aviary. In the centre is a spacious octagon apartment, the depth of the house, with folding glass doors at each end, that lead to a portico. On one side of the mountain • on t a (.ii n ■.II I'l ! 44 ztita.r'' ■■•- fi- '-d^, with walk. otlier ,s the garden, and a luxuriant vincvard that produces pknty of fine fnilf T > V „!, • "^ iHiit. lo comnlete ih « charn,,„. residence, it oon,n.a„ds at one v ew a mngmfieen. prospeet over the Blue Rid„e for «ear 1, fort, ,„;,,,; ,„a fron, another, h ' I^. country covered with trees Tho W i of Monticello affords JL2uJ'\ ^'""""" pienon,e„o„ that is very rare on land,'thou; 2; accounted for on any principles of phiLophy; bu -a es distant objects appear larglr than'thl; are « Inch g,ves great variety to their views an? i„^!? "'"■"'•^ '"'^"•''^ -'"-'' -hi'st here, enveloped for an instant in a column of warm air that seemed driven towards me by the w d. I ;;.« the cause of it, but cou^ld get no i„! Our visit at this place was rendered extremely J.eab.e not only by the elegance and hosp^X' oi our en ertmnment, but by several rides in the -ghbounng mountains, which abound wi h 1 Uual wonders. The principal of these is the Rock Brid top ,o boltom; a.ul, by some ex.raordinar; and ..macro,,„,able circumstance, to have lb™,ed th.s magn,hce„t arch of solid stone across it. Our 'r.endly guule, wishing to give us the first im- p.-ess,on of the Rock liri.lge in all its glory, con- |nctedustotheWofthen,ou„tai„,\.hL:e Imd a full v,ew of this stupendous arch, which seems to touch the very skies. The height of the bndge to the top of the parapet is two hundred and thirteen feet, measured with a line. At the bottom it is forty.five feet wide, and at top ninety. It IS forty-five feet thick: part of this thickness h formed by a coat of earth, which affords growth to "..-.ny large trees, principally cedars and pines After gratifying ourselves some time with thi, sublnne spectacle, we ascended the steep crao-a by a wn,dmg footpath to the top: one side is prl ecte< by a parapet wall, but the other is open ; and look down f^m it into the vast abyss, wou'ld hi h courage of the stoutest heart. The road run n the nnddle, and waggons daily pass it in safety the breadth being „o less than eighty feet ^ ' The bridge is supported by an abutment of a sobd mass of lm,es,one, which, with the arch seems to have been chiseled by the art of man A small stream called Cedar Creek, runs over a bed o rocks at the bottom, and adds much to the beau y of the scene. Having taken leave of our kind »ncnds at Monticello, „e proceeded fifty „,i,,, ,o the S 1 :f li! li f! '■'!! ! i 46 the northward, behind the Blue Mountains, to see a large cavern called Maddison*s Cave. It is in the middle of a mountain, which is so steep on one side, that a pebble might be thrown from its sum- mit, into the river which washes its base. The path leading to the cavern is on the opposite side and very easy to ascend, till it turns suddenly to the steep part of the mountain, which is extremely rugged, and covered with immense rocks and trees from top to bottom. The mouth of the cavern is guarded by a huge pendant stone, that made me tremble lest it should fall, and either confine me for ever within the cave, or. crush me to atoms with its weight. Seeing Mr. Franklin enter, I overcame my fear, and followed him and 'the guide, who lighted us into the dreary mansions with splmters of pitch pine, which give a brilliant light, but burn out very fast; however, we were provided with a large bundle of them. The first apartment is very high, and its floor is moist, from the quan- tity of water that trickles down from the roof. The guide led us through a passage on the left, into an apartment that I shall call the anti-chamber; whence we advanced into the sound room, a cavern that reverberates any sound in a wonderful manner. I blew a French horn, that the guide had provided, and we were almost stunned by the echo. This chamber is arched at top, and beautifully decorated with petrifactions. Returning to the anti-chamber, we followed the guide, through a long, broad pas- sage, sa P» ea St( SCI of spj by the pla are floe wat reti hori Moi the extr on h Jargi may expl( conv west( met 1 with duce Virgi l^hia. Mr Mountains, to set ^ave. It is in the so steep on one wn from its sum- its base. The the opposite side, urns suddenly to lich is extremely 2 rocks and trees of the cavern is 3, that made me ither confine me sh me to atoms 'anklin enter, I i him and the ry mansions with a brilliant light, e were provided 2 first apartment from the quan- 1 the roof. The the left, into an anti -chamber; room, a cavern iderful manner, e had provided, le echo. This ifully decorated 2 anti-chamber, ng, broad pas- sage, 4': sage, to a pool of clear water, which stopped our progress on that side. The floor is of a deep sandy earth, full of saltpetre; and the walls are of lime stone. Not satisfied with what we had seen, we scrambled down a steep, slippery place, in the side 01 the long passage, into another cavern, more spaaous than the rest. The petrifactions formed by the water trickling from above, hang down from the ;oof m the form of elegant drapery; in some places the petrifactions have begun at bottom, and are shaped like pillars of different heights. The floor of this apartment gradually sloped .to a pool of water, which put an end' to our researches. We returned by the same path we came, mounted our ftorses, and pursued our way amongst the Blue Mountains, which are covered with large trees to the very summit: some of them are cragged and extremely stony, others rich and fertile. Travellers on horseback, armed with pistols or swords, with a large blanket folded up under their saddle, that they may not want a bed at night, who were going to explore, as they term it, (that is, to search for lands conveniently situated for a new settlement, in the western country,) were the principal company we met up the road; except heavy waggons, covered with strong hnen or bear-skins, carrying the pro duce of Jenesse, Kentucky, and theLk parts "f Virgmia, to Alexandria, Baltimore, or Philadel- pnia. Mr. Franklin contrived to meet tl.^ p.,^,...^.. at 4S ere that river passes through the Blue Ridge. The approach towards the spot is wild and romantic. From a very high point ot land we beheld the Shenandoah, another river, to the right, which, after having ranged along the foot of the mountain an hundred miles, to seek & vent, meets the Patowmac, which is endeavouring, from the left, to force a passage also. The moment they unite, their waters rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea The piles of rock above, and the steep precipice beneath, with the roaring of the torrent, form a sublime contrast with the tranquil view beyond it. From this place we returned directly to Washina ington, delighted with the romantic objects we hai' seen, which amply repaid the trouble of the journey I have taken sketches of different views; amongs others, that of the Rock Bridge, which I hope w shall one day examine together. With a kiss U little Louisa, be assured that I am, most affection ately, your's, ARTHUR MIDDLETO.N ou aft Pa flai Bii] exl gro wit hou mhi mat pro^ cat, but join] by A pi poor ivith HarJ i 40 asses through the ivards the spot u 2ry high point ot another river, to ranged along iht d miles, to seek a 1 is endeavonrinff, Iso. The momeiii ether against the iss off to the sea le steep precipict : torrent, form > view beyond it. ;ctly to Washing ic objects we bar Ic of the journey It views; amongs which I hope wi With a kiss li I, iriost affection LETTER VII. Mr. a. Franklin to his Brother. HIDDLETOiV BEAR BROTHER, ■ l^orfilk. WE are continually changing the scene from place to place. From Washington we beM otir course southward, Into the state of Virginia rfter coasting along the Maryland shore of the Patowmac, as far as Hoe's Ferty. This tract i* fla , sandy and dreary. Nothing is to be seen for "f toget - but extensive plains, that have bet «hau:,ted by the culture of tobacco, now ove^ r-n w.th yellow sedge, and occasionally shade,! r ^°'"' •"^P'"« «"d cedar trees. Ma^ of the houses are m ruins, and seem to be deserted by the •nhabtant^ The Ferry House looked like hi «ans.on of misery, and is so badly supplied ^^ Fov.s.ons, that we could hardly get any thing o «.t except a few oysters taken out of fhe rifet but they were very tasteless and indifferent Ad' J>.nmg to this tavern I saw several huts, occupied by he .1, belonging to the master Wh« •P-cture of wretchedness they presented- The poor creatures looked half starved, were covered -Uh rags, and the children ran about stark niked flanng crossed the ferry, we entered Virginia, bu^ , found i II so found no great improvement in the appearance c,l the country. We were put ashore on a sn.all pe- mnsula, called the Northern Neck, situate between the Patowmac and the Rappahannock, remarkable tor havmg given birth to several distinguished characters m the Ameiican war, particularly Gene- ral Washington. There is a great inequality in the condition of the inhabitants, in many parts of this state. Some posssess immense estates, worked by a great number of slaves; whilst others live in a stAte approaching to indigence. The former are generally well educated, and have a taste for readmg; but the instruction of the middling classes has been greatly neglected. The Virginians are remarked for their hospitality and love of plea- sure. In the houses of the rich I have frequently been entertained with a dinner of delicacies, served on plate, in a room where the windows have stood in great need of the glazier; so inattentive are they to the state of their houses, which are often very much out of repair. Diincing, gaming, hunting, and racing, are their favourite amusements; but though they are so fond ot horses, they do not ride well. Tobacco is one of the staple commodities raised in this part of the country. As soon as all danger of frost IS past, the cultivator chooses a small spot of ground, upon which prodigious piles of wood ai-e burnt, in order to destroy the weeds and insects. The warm ashes are then dug in with the earth, and i I 2 appearance ol" on a small pv- situate between Dck, remarkable I distinguished "ticularly Gene- it inequality in many parts of estates, worked t others live in The former ave a taste for iiiddling classes Virginians are love of plea- lave frequently licacies, served >ws have stood mtive are they are often very icing, are their ey are so fond nodities raised I as all danger s a small spot piles of wood 3s and insects, ith the earth, and i f 51 and the seed sown. Bushes are next strewed over Tt r" r K- 1 ^"'"'*" ''^ ^"'"^ P^^"^ ^^om the attacks o birds and flies; but it often happens that a large black fly, of the beetle kind, devours the shoots as soon as they appear, when they are obliged to be picked off by hand. When the plants are ot a proper size, they ar^ transplanted into tl . fields, and set out on hillocks at a small distance from each other. In this stage the roots are fre. qtiently devoured by worms, and flies deixjsit their eggs between the leaves and the stem; aid were it not for the continual care of the slaves, who are employed m clearing them of their enemies, most of the plants would l,e destroyed. When thev have attamed perfection, they are cut down, and pegs are driven into the stems, by which they are Jung up to dry, in large houses built for that purpose. "*^ . ^f'" P^P^'-'y <='"-«d. the leaves are tied up ia bundles, packed in hogsheads, and sent to the Lxt shWngtown for exportation. Where the roads -re g«Kl and dry, it is usual to drive two 4 p.ns of wood into the ends of the hogshead, which -rve for axles; to these they fasten a pair of shal formmg the hogshead into a kind of carriage, draw.! by one or two horses. By the process I have described, you may see that a great number of hands must be employed, and much labour performed, before a poor EngUsh »an can enjoy a pipe of tobacco. Thus art we indebted m. .m^i^n i'! I 52 indebted to each other for the smallest gratifica- tions; nor can the richest or most powerful indi- vidual boast that he is independent of his fellow- creatures; for our Heavenly Father has bound us all in one chain of mutual fellowship and good offices. The culture of tobacco has of late gradually yielded to that of wheat. The rank of the cultiva- tor is, in some degree, regulated by the produce he raises. Those who grow tobacco and Indian corn arc called planters; and those whose crops are small grain, farmers. We have visited the chief towns in this province; none of them arc very large, llichmond, the capital, is situated on the northern side of James River, immediately below the Falls. The lower town extends along the bank of the river; but the houses of those not en- gaged in trade form the upper town, and stand upon a hill, which connnands a prospect of the river and its islands, with the extensive valley through which it flows, and the numerous falls that break its stream. On the opposite side of the river the country rises into a gentle eminence; and the httle, but well-built town of Manchester, en- vironed by cultivated fields, which arc ornamented by countless numbers of trees, and dotted witli scattered houses, embellishes the sweet, variegated, romantic perspective. The Capitol, or State-house, is a vast pile of red brick: even the pillars and ornaments are of that material. It is esteemed one ' of ■ smallest gratifica- )st powerful iiuli- •nl of his fellow, icr lias bound us awsliip and good f late gradually ik of the cultiva- l by the produce acco and Indian lose whoso crops lavc visited the ne of them arc I, is situated on er, immediately 'xtends alonff the of those not en- own, and stand prospect of the extensive valle}- ncrous falls that site side of the I eminence; and Manchester, en. arc ornamented id dotted witli 'cct, variegated, or State-house, the pillars and is esteemed one of .53 "f the grandest edifices in America; but it is more to be admired for its magnitude than its elegance. In the centre is a circular vestibule, lighted by a dome, and embellished by a statue of General Washington, and a bust of I,a I'ayette. IVom the southern shore the river is crossed by a curious bridge, built uj>on fifteen large flat- bottomed boats, secured by strong chains and anchors; a simple contrivance, that can be easily J-cplaced, if carried away by the shoals of ice in tlie wuiter, which frequently come down with sucli force as would overthrow almost any stone bridge they could erect. Ilichmond contains about thir- teen thousand inhabitants, more than one third of wliom are slaves. I saw two female slaves and their children sold by auction in the street; an incident of common oc- currence here, though terrifying to myself and many other strangers. I could hardly bear to see them handled and examined like cattle; and when I heard their sobs, and saw the big tears roll down their cheeks, at the thoughts of being separated, I could not refrain from weeping with them. In idling these unhappy beings, little regard is Iiad to parting the nearest relatives. Virginia prides Itself on the comparative mildness of its treatment of the slaves; and in fact they increase in numbers many being annually supplied from this state to tliose further south, where the treatment is said to be much more severe. There arp r^«ni„. ^..i„^, wlio 8^ I m wlio buy them up, and drive them in gangs, chained together, to a southern market. I am in- formed, that few weeks pass without some of them being marched through this place. A traveller told me, that he saw, two weeks ago, one hundred and twenty sold by auction in the streets of Rich- mond, and that they filled the air v/ith their lament- ations. The falls in the river extend six miles above the city, and, from the rocks that obstruct the passage, as well as the descent, navigation would be im- practicable, but for a canal which opens an unin- terrupted communication to the Blue Mountains; and, in some seasons, beasts with light burdens can proceed still further. Before the revolution, AVilliamsburgh was the capital of Virginia: the removal of the legislative body to Richmond has reduced this town to a deserted, forlorn condition. Tiie Capitol, which is falling to ruins, and the College of William and Mary, are relics of its former consequence. Law, medicine, natural and moral philosophy, mathematics, and modern lan- guages, are taught to the students, who are not numerous. But little trade is carried on at this place, and the society is thought very genteel. I paid a visit, myself, to the hospital for lunatics, but cannot praise it for good management. York is a small town, not very flattering to the U'clinffs of an Englishman ; as it was here that Lord 55 » m gangs, t. I am in- )me of them A traveller one hundred Bts of Rich- Lheir lament- 2s above the the passage, ould be im- ens an unin- Mountains ; ^ht burdens rgh was the le legislative town to a ins, and the relics of its natural and modern lan- who are not d on at this y genteel. I lunatics, but tering to the as here tliat Lord Lord Cornwallis surrendered his army to the united forces of the Americans, and their allies the French. A flat, uninteresting country, lies between these towns and Hampton, a small place situated at the mouth of James River; across which we were fer- ried to Norfolk, the only sea-port of consequence in Virginia. It is a large town, with ten thousand inhabitants. The streets are in right lines, suffi- ciently spacious, with wide paved causeways before the houses, which are good-looking and cleanly. The'-e is a large market-house in the centre of the principal street, with negroes selling for their mas- ters fine vegetables and bad meat. The yellow fever frequently carries off great numbers here; and I be- lieve the people increase the evil, by the immoderate use of wine and strong liquors by way of prevention. The day after our arrival being Sunday, we went to church, and were hurt at observing that the negroes arc not suffered to mingle with the M'hites, but are confined to a particular place; as if the Universal Father of all, distributed his bless- ings in proportion to the complexion of his crea- tures, when we are expressly told, that " every man shall be rewarded according to his works." I have since heard that this custom prevails throughout Georgia, Carolina, and Virginia. From the ruinous state of the churches in general, in this part of Vir- ginia, and the negligence of the duties of the sabbath, I am led to suspect that religion has not its due in- fluence on the people. Many of the churches stand in >^\\ 60 i» .be midst of solitary woods, and it does not appear that any persons are appointed to attend to tC Grave-yards are often private property Z EatiLfK"""'^' '''' "■^^^"•^'J' -- J-ge plantations, bury,„g ground, for the family, ^„„°i •n; an accommodation, when church-ya^ds ^e ottered at a great distance from each ot'hef " The tobacco of Virginia is in high repute which m some degree, may be attributed !2 szi:ntcXr-?r-"-- :-tv''^'»"^%o.st;,sh:a?o;xr and ,f they approve it, mark it%i,h a hot iro„ before « can be shipped ; which is an efrilrre' practised, by mixing good and bad together My letter is drawn out to so great a length that I fcar you will be as tired with reading as f am w J HENRY JRANKLIN. \% n tn loes not appear ttend to them, ^rty, and very • In different ed, near Jarge family, walled 'ch.yards are h other, ^igh repute, ibuted to the shed in every ^G inspectors d of tobacco, ' a hot iron, effectual re- otherwise be fether. ength, that I s I am with tion, I will ANKLIN. LETTER VIII. ^rihur Middli'ton to Ms Brother Edmn. . BEAR EDWIN, Norfolk. i- T. 1 /^. ^'- ^''^"^^'" ^« P^-eparing a packet for England, I must add my remarks on that part ot Virginia we have already seen. The houses, in many places, ^lave an antique appearance, like the old manor-houses in England -dare built with brick and stone; but most of the modern ones are only of wood, and always have a porch or viranda, in the front, which is often carried all round the dwelling, and affords a shady mreat in the heat of the day, from the scorching rays of the sun, which, in bright weather, ar! intense at noon; though the atmosphere is as variable here as in other parts of AnLica, often cl anging from hot to cold several times in the same day In the centre of genteel houses there is mostly a hall or saloon, furnished hke a parlour, with sofas, &c. where the family pass much of th^r 72. "' '"^'^"^ ' ^^^^--^h draught The heat and unwholesomeness of the climate ' it I'l 1 1 1\ 1 1 1 i. ' ! ^■1^1 I HH 1 i ^■^« 1 ■■ hi Il t ill M 7< ^H9H v^-^K-^iiBH 1 1 ^'^^jH |l:| 1 58 some, and the bonnets they wear to shade them- selves from the sun, make them appear still plainer than nature has formed them: the caul sits close to the back of the head, and the front projects, like an umbrella, over the face ; so that they cannot look at at any thing behind them, without turning the whole body round. The rich are extremely fond ol pleasure, or what my mother would call dissipa- tion, such as gaming and horse-racing, Cards and dice would be a punishment to me; but the delights of the chase and the course I like very well: and were it not for my Mentor, Mr. Franklin, I could never resist an invitation to either. He tells me that I look only at momentary gratification, with- out considering the consequences; that racing leads to gambling and bad company, and that hunting mostly ends in a carousal. The common people are extremely fond of an entertainment called a barbacue, which is the meeting of a jovial party, often in the woods, to partake of a sturgeon, or a pig roasted whole in the open air, on a sort of hurdle, over a slow fire. The feast is too generally succeeded by plenty of liquor, and tl>e guests separate, unable to walk home in a straight line. Drinking is one of their vices, and runs away with great part of their gains. As a counterbalance to these defects, they are lively and hospitable, and have humanely adopted a code of laws, in some respects similar to that of Penn- sylvania, by which no crime but premeditated murder ihade them* still plainer sits close to ects, like an nnot look at ig the whole ely fond o( call dissipa- Cards and the delights •y well: and :lin, I could He tells me nation, with- racing leads hat hunting fond of an hich is the e woods, to whole in the V fire. The ty of liquor, home in a ir vices, and ains. As a '^ are lively jpted a code I at of Penn- )remeditated murder 59 murder is punished with death. Virginia is inter- sected by numerous rivers and creeks, and in many parts covered with forests of maples, pines, cedars, the climbing trumpet-flower tree, the Carolinian allspice, cornel trees, walnuts, laurels, bay-trees, tulip-trees, poplars, oaks, sumachs, acacias, and many others: it produces also a great variety of fragrant plants and flowering shrubs; and the groves are inhabited by multitudes of birds, which sing charmingly, and some of them delight the eye with their beautiful plumage. The notes of the mocking bird are the most melodious of any. It is about the size of a lark, has a long tail, and the colour of the body is a deep blue. This bird imi- tates the song of every bird he hears, but excels them all; and so conscious are they of his supe- riority, that when he begins to follow any particular bird, it flies away, as if ashamed of its own per- formance. There are none, however, but the mocking bird, to be compared to our English songsters. The blue bird and the red bird are both very handsome: the first is not bigger than a lin- net, but its dark bright-bke head, wings, and back, when it flies, make a brilliant appearance. The red bird is of a fine vermilion colour, with a small tuft of feathers on his head. I have seei a few humming-birds, fluttering about like butter- flies, but their colours are not so bright as those more to the southward. The whip-poor-will is a bird whose note resembles those words, which he utters ' «» '< ! I'd' I il Ml.llli otters in the dusk nf fl.« « • tive manner an7„l '™"'^' '" ""^ '»°^' P'-i". almost r! """"""'^ h'' "'""plaiDt till f -. .ha. it reseXawwl IT""'"''"'''^ •»■«' companions, called bull f !• '"'"' "'" f-at size, croak so h rTh ani" 1 "^^ '"" "'"■'• iardly believe th.. ^ i ""''' y°" ''""W / ueiicve the sound came from a d, you would i a frog. We ^i'rific and ex- nusual in this ordered to set 'j in different That day y calm, and 'n it became e tokens of grew dark, dismounted, its progress, ftness, care- > and pieces levelJed the for cattle, endeavour in; in two rhe shock keep our in a Tei'y ■ s stortn 61 of ' "^vere astonished to ^pp n , j- • ^^'^^^^^^nd, and in a r).rf f 1 ? P^od^gious column of fire 60 rapidly, that we were afraid ofl." ^" "' by destroying ever/thing '!«; r^ilir food, to extinguish it. These new fl fully watched b, a nuJer Z ZT "^^ J-akes, to guard thpm r "°^^ ^""J towardstheZtf^ , r 'P''"*"^' "^"^-Pt ;Hieh appeareLone : :;«r; r LS'^l -as unknown alUnl ''r^^'" "' ^^^""^ «« « -e. and ™ade ^e ^^^ZLT^'""' f "- -'-dis,orgi„,itsiLr;r^c;;;;i: ' f 62 H to heighten tlie picture from your own imagination, (for it falls short of the reality,) I conclude, with the most tender affection, your's, ARTHUR MIDDLETON. kV^VW-VV^ LETTER IX, Arthur Middleton to his Brother Edxoin. Charlesio-u'ii. DEAE EDWIN, WE have not passed through many great towns in our journey hither; yet we have found objects, that, from their novelty or curiosity, have amused us. The country about Norfolk is extremely flat, and would be uninteresting, were it not for the width and beautiful windings of Elizabeth River; the little town of Portsmouth, on the opposite shorv : the great number of ships, some at anchor, some at the wharfs, some repairing, and others building, which enliven the scene, and render it agreeable. Dismal Swamp is a vast bog, containing one hundred and fifty thousand acres. In some parts the surface is dry, and firm enough to bear a horse; but in others, a man would sink over head, if he attempted to walk on it. If a trench,, only a few feet deep, is cut in the driest part, the water gushes in, wn imagination, ' conclude, with :iDDLETON. er Edzoin. Charleston' II. igh many great ve have found curiosity, have emely flat, and for the width h River; the pposite shorc^ : ichor, some at ^ers building, agreeable. Dntaining one [n some parts bear a horse; F head, if lie lijonly a few water gushes in, # 63 in, and fills it up immediately. The wat^. fl Trnm .1,^ -J • I ^ ^»^ater Hows from t!,e sides in large streams, into the canal that connects Albemarle Sound with Norfolk- ite colour ,s exactly hke brandy, which is attribit d to the roots of the juniper trees that grow in ,1 -amp. The whole bog is covered with tre v^lnch grow to an enormous size; between then s a tlnck wood of cane-reeds, long .rass J", biishwnm? nM,« • . ° 8*^ass, and busl.«ood. Ihe moist parts nourish juniper and cypress rees; and the dry ones, white and red oaks, and a variety of pines. The trees supply a vast qnantity of shingles and staves, which a."se„t by the canal to Norfolk, where there is a constant .Wid for these articles. The pines yidJXty of Uirpentine, which is obtained by cutting a l^'e gas ,„ the ,ee, and setting a trough benefth it,?: ^atel the 1 quor that runs from the wound. The peop^ whohve on the borders of the swamp, dri hem, ,f they were not careful to train them to come home every evening. When a fresh herd is urld otU, the farmer sends with them two or three Jd m.lch cows, accustomed to the nlace vy,lr, bells fastened round their necks Thl "' t>aeU regularly to be milkj 'andtirnrr quaintance folW the sound of the bells; aid"' the,r return are feasted with a handful of Ju t I attaches them to their home. Ittt d £ tint reeesses of this swampy forest, .here artllfal of cattle, that have strayed and are becof wUd • besides j: , I 1 .'fpifr 64 besides bears, wolves, deer, and other creatures, tliat are its native inhabitants; but we did not penetrate far enough to see them. The taverns along tlie coast between Norfolk and Charlestown are v ; juiitd, and the fare accords with them. AVe could often get no bread but that made of Indian corn, which is very coarse, strong, and unpleasant, to people who are not accustomed to it. It eats best in cakes, beram>e the large loaves are seldom well baked in the middle. So badly were we entertained in some places, that we were glad to satisfy our hunger with a dish of hominy, a mixture of Indian corn and beans, boiled to a solid sort of pudding, with milk. This is often eaten, either hot or cold, with bacon or fresh meat; and some of the negroes almost live upon it. As we advanced towards the southern part of Virginia, we saw great numbers of large birds, in form and plumage resembling a turkey, called turkey buzzards. They feed on putrid carcasses, which has induced the inhabitants of Carolina to prohibit the destroying them, as they think they are useful in removing bodies in a state of decay, that would increase the unhealthiness of the cli- mate. Near the Dismal Swamp we entered North Carolina. )n the side next the sea it is a vast plain, almost covered with forests. It happened, one night, that we were belated, and lost our way in one of these trackless wilds. It was not lon^ Icfbre I ; rc/itiircs, lliat not penetrate ^ecn Norfolk e fare accords read but that 3arse, strong, t accustomed .: large loaves e. So badly that we were 1 of hominy, lied to a solid often eaten, h meat; and • lern part of fge birds, in L'key, called id carcasses, Carolina to ^ think they ite of decay, of the cli- cred North it is a vast happened, Dst our way as not lon^ Icfbre G5 before a light, glimmering tiirough the trees, revived our drooping spu'its nith the expectation that a house was not far off; but what was our surprise and d.sappouument, on riding up to the spot, to ftnd that It moved from us, then drew nigh, and then swiftly took flight into the woods. Whilst we were considering the cause of this extraordinary appearance, I perceived the same sort of lic.ht in a bush close to our side, and in a few minutes all the trees ni the forest sparkled with them. Mr. Franklin presently recollected that this illumination pro- ceeded from the fire-fly, a small insect that swarms in summer in the American woods, dispersing their fcght m all parts, in the night; though they are seU dom seen m the day, bemuse they hide themselves .n rotten wood. I pocketed a few for examination, and found them of a reddish brown colour. The hght comes from under the wings; and when they ««e m the a.r, looks like sparks, appearing and Asappeanng every n^oment. It is a g.eat ^lief, ^ travelhng through those woods, to allay ou^ thirst wnhwUd strav-berries, which grow here plentifully The green fruit on the trel promise' also an abundance of wild plums, grapes and Waekb^es. Various kinds of LiciLf pCs 2a roms are fou nd here, particularly ginseng, snake-root, anc hon s heart: the latter is thougl t a sovereign ^n eu, for the bite of a serpent, ^ve sometimes ^<^iange the gloomy forest for the open savannah, oi pasture-ground, mostlv coveiwi „,itJ resembling rcficnibling tlic stalks of green corn, and affording' excellent food for cattle. I am no coward; but th pale, sallow, sickly countenances of the inhabitants, and the numbers we have found indisposed witi bilious fevers and agues, make me dread a fit c illness. Nature generally provides a remedy iw every evil. This country would probably be mor, unhealthy than it is, were it not that the trees i; the low country are loaded with vast quantities o a long, spongy kind of moss, which inhales the uii wholesome vapours from the stagnant waters. We have been at Charlcstown but a few da^^ and have taken up our abode at a boarding-house - where we arc supplied with lodging and food: b^ we are seldom at home, as we accept all invitation^ our desigr) being to see as much as possible of tli people, as well as the country. ^ Having an engagement to dinner, and scarce! time to prepare for it, I must close my letter, wit most affectionate remembrance to all my friends i Old England. Adieu. ARTHUR MIDDLETO L if "I LETTEIi goii lettt Sou thro swar and prof'i N( town wood Wei but t Ch is siti fluem popul on th great ^lore ( I Th( *bage-j )rn, and affording coward; but tht 'f the inhabitants. 1 indisposed witi He dread a fit i les a remedy Iw jrobably be mou that the trees ii vast quantities o h inhales the uii mi waters, but a few day^ boarding-housi ig and food: h 3t all invitation! IS possible of tli ()7 Mr. II. Fmnlclm to Edicm Middleton, 3r, and scarce! my letter, wil ill my friends i riDDLETO Y TP^ rrm rin -w-i Ti C/tarli-xtunwf, 1)EAE EDWIN, I CANNOT seal up a packet that I am goHig to send to my brother, without enclosing a letter for you. Carolina is divided into North ami South. The eastern side, towards the oeeai), through whieh we have lately travelled, is a low swampy country, intersected with ereeks and rivers- and from its moisture, the heat of the climate, and profusion of vegetables, extremely unhealthy Newbern, though a poor place, is the largest town m North Carolina. The houses are built with wood, and a few public edifices only are of brick. ^ e have passed through several other sn.all towns, but they have no particular claims to flescription ^ Charlestown is the capital of South Can.lina. It IS situated on a tongue of land, formed by the con- fluence of the rivers Ashley and Cooper. The most populous and commercial quarter of the city stands on the Ashley. Some parts of the quay project a great way into the river, that merchant-vessels may more easily receive their cargoes. ^ These quays are made of the trunks of the cab- bage-palm, fixed together, and placed in squares one 1(1 iSr^l "' - one above another. The spongy nature of tlii. tree would not lead one to expect that it would remain many years under water without injury; but experience proves that it is more durable for thi^ purpose, than any other tree in the country. The streets, from east to west, extend from river to river, and running in straight lines, open agreeable prospects each way, and afford good opportunities, by means of subterranean drains, for removing nuisances, and promoting the health and cleanliness ot the city. The most modern houses are generailv of brick, though many of the inhabitants prefer houses of wood, because they think them cooler than those of brick; and they adopt every contrivana to mitigate the excessive heats of summer, by ad mitting the fresh air into the apartments. Oper windows, doors opposite to each other, and long galleries formed to shelter the upper part of the house from the sultry rays of the sun, are the luxuries preferred by the rich to the ornaments ol painting and gilding. The outward appearance is often neglected, when the inr,ide is commodious and well furnished; though they are seldom remarkably neat, notwitli- standing the numerous train of negro servants that are kept in opulent families. The streets, instead of being paved, are covered with a loose sand, ground to a fine powder by the multitude of carriages that pass through them. In windy weather the dust is intolerable; and, after a shower. slio\ ^erc befo dista is v( trem a ch foot, mula of th tlie c negro ply w tyrani this, a and m The tewarc distres daves, dicrish The mark c Itemainj tions ai termed Soutl punishn «'e infl iefcndei nature of tlii, 2t that it would lout injury; bin durable for thiv ! country. The [ from river to open agreeable [1 opportunities, , for removino I and cleanliness ies are generally labitants prefei liem cooler than ery contrivance ummer, by ad :ments. Oper thcr, and lonn aer part of tin : sun, are tin e ornaments ol :en neglected, veil furnished; neat, notwitli- I servants tliai i, are covered owder by the gli them. It ; and, after i shower. C9 si'oner, the passengers would sink into tl,e mud -ere ,t not for narrow briek foot-path.s, which run before the houses. Pumps are plaeJd at shor" distances; but the water has a brackish taste that •s very disagreeable. The mode of living is ex tremely luxurious. Most famiUes keep a eoaeh or . eha,se^ The ladies are never seen ,o walk on foo , and the men often ride. Twenty ne^ro and mu atto slaves are commonly employed b/people of the m,ddle rank, in domestic offices ; ^..d even tlie children are attended by a number of little »egroes of their own age, who are obliged to com- ply with their humours, and form them to habits of yrannyft-om their infancy. Arthur cannot beat .h , a d „ eontn„,al!y giving lessons of humanity mid moderation to his companions. ^ The hospitality of the inhabitants of Carolina towards slrangers, their generosity to perl." Jstress, and their unfeeling treLenfotL javes show that the human breast is capable of Perishing qualities directly opposite to each other They are expensive in their funerals, thinking it'a »aik of respect to the deceased, to convey their .^mams to their last abode with splendid dect «ons and melancholy pomp, which may truly be termed the most absurd of vanities. South Carolina has not yet adopted the humane pumshments of Pennsylvania. Death and whippi„„ .0 inflicted more often than in E^-ope. ^^^N^ defender ,s allowed to an accused negro; and his judges y^ k I ! xr i ! • :v i ro Ml W liatev ei- il,l n judges have power to condemn him mode of death they please. The importation of negroes from Africa has been prohibited, at different times, for a limited period, There is a party for both sides of the question, Unfortunately, interest prevails over humanity and justice; but it is generally allowed that the slaves in this country are pjuch better treated, in all re- spects, than formerly. False opinions lead to erroneous practice. Whilst it is considered a degradation for a white man to labour, slaves must be had to cultivate the earth ; particularly the rice swamps, which are here very numerous and extensive: and as the culture of that grain differs from any thing ii: Europe, I will relate the process usually adopted After tiie ground is turned up in furrows, in Apri or May, a woman throws in the seed, and the iie graes tiil them up. The plant shoots up in ten oi twelve days; and when it has attained the heigli of six or seven inches, the field is overflowed, si that no more than the tops of the blade can be seen In a few weeks the water is turned off, to give tlit negroes an opportunity of weeding the rice; whei that is done, the field is again covered with water till the crop is ripe, which is known by the yello^' colour of the ear, and the hardness of the stem When reaped, it is kept in stacks till winter: bu; more is to be done before it is exported. It i: threshed and put into a small wooden house, fixec upoii upon ^eiiin< clcanc The I after to tak sifted be cor to pel Worm covers not foi and ar plantei habitai Inn I sivamp iinintei constar Sout parts, Bear oi flat, le' with ric and ter separate those tl] An exa you. ; Thcr I 71 n to wliateve,- ^,pon four pillars, with a large sieve placed i„ tl,e mhng: ,nto this sieve the rice is thrown, and S.fr.ca has been cleaned by the wind before it reaches the o^ound limited period, Tlie outer husk is then taken off by a hand mill' ^ the question, after which it is winnowed, and beaten with club^ humanity and to take off the inner husk. The large grains are that the slaves »fted from the small ones, and packed in casks to lated, m all re. be conveyed on shipboard. Before the rice comes to perfection, it is assailed by many enemies, ecus practice. Worms and small fishes, which live in the water that on for a white covers the swamps, would destroy the roots, were it to cultivate the not for the herons, who devour them in multitudes ps, which arc and are, on that account, as much regarded by the i: and as th. planters, as the turkey buzzards are by the in any thing it habitants of the towns, sually adopted Innumerable flocks of rice-birds hover over the rrows, m Apr, ,h-amps when the crop is ripe; but they are not .1, and the ,,e uninterrupted in their feast, for young negroes are ,ts up m ten o, coi^tan.ly kept on the watch to drive Them away, ned the heigl, South Carolina is divided by nature into L overflowed, . parts. Upper and Lower. Along the coast, and tdecanbesee. «ar one hundred miles westward, the country is off, to give tl„ flat level and intersected with swamps, cultiva'ted the rice; who, with rice: beyond this, it rises into hills progressive!, red with watc, «.d terminates in the Allegany Mountains, which , by the yelk «parate ,he waters that fall i„,o the Atlantic from s of the ste>. fliose that discharge themselves into the Mississippi 111 winter: hii An examination of your map will make this clear ^ported. It i to you. m house, fixet ^ There are no stones to he found in Lower Caro upoc m I lina; ■ 1 ! i tl i« i# 72 Una; and upon digging up the ground are layers ol sea-shells and petrified fish, in the middle of the sand At sixty miles from the sea are entire oyster-beds, in a fossil state; one extending fifty miles, formed of a species of that fish no longer to be found on the coast. Huge trunks of trees are also frequently discovered beneath the surface of the earth, whicli seem to have lain there for ages. Do not these circumstances seem to confirm the truth of the deluge, and prove, incritestably, that this whole tract was once covered with water. Except at Charlestown, there are very few schools, of any description, in this state: the cul. tivation of the human mind is, consequently, at a low ebb; and many persons of fortune submit to send their children to Europe for education. TIk produce of the earth is the chief source of wealtli to the inhabitants of Carolina, as they want either the skill or the taste to establish manufactories, Indigo is a plant much cultivated, for the fine dar blue colour it yields to painters and dyers. Cotton is likewise raised here to advantage, am forms a profitable article of commerce. Several of our friends having formed a party te take a ride into the country, I must L.y aside niv peii^ and bid you adieu. HENRY FRANKLIN. Fro DEi Hcarlj) apolo^ you. In ( sion, ] in pcrf lumseh 1 losmii' LETTEIi |-oung fi nd are layers ol ddleofthesand J oyster-beds, in les, formed of a )e found on the also frequent!) le earth, whicli Do not these 3 truth of the bat this whole 7$ LETTER XL From Mr. Henri, Fravldhi to Mrs. Middleton. are very few state: the cul. sequently, at s tune submit to ication. The irce of weal til sy want either manufactories, ' the fine daii yers, ivantage, and rce. led a party tf l^y aside niv iANKLIN. LETTEIl DEAR MADAM, ~ tV,^rh'siou'n. THE intelligence I have to convey so t-a ly concerns your happiness, that I make no apology for the liberty of addressing myself to ^ on, I begm by an a.^urance that your son is now n per^ct health; though n-om imprudently p.ttiZ losing iHs life. ^ " '' '"^ ^"^ ^''' '-"y "'^"^ ZuT /'^' "' ''" " '""'^-s'-ako coiled £ UM '^""<='^''-%'«Anh„r to avoid l-">'. Had lie nltcded to n.y ,.arni„g, he would - boon „nhu,.c. fo,. t,.ey seldom ^.k ..T^l od.es not molest then,: In.t ounosi.v, L a |-.orao venture tetnpted hin, ,o advance ..v.l fo..cl .„e an,„,al w,tl, a svvitch. Enraged I.y this ««aii t, the ci-natni-o „.!.; i .,'=■•' '"* lis tl,l,.I- , ' ' '"'■" ""^ ■'^'^■^ '""g. and --a -.i^ Head, w^i: helx *:, ;:i"::,t2 ^ J-aci.. dan inmcted abound on the^n^l"' ;.ou„g. f..,e„d. My terror was extren,e; b„t J, iosni"' '. r-f. ? '■ 74 r'r! losing my presence of mind, I gathered the leaves of a plant which grew in the wood, that I had been told were an antidote, and by the immediate aplication, diminished the ill consequences of the venom, thougli he suffered extremely for several days. He is perfectly recovered, and I hope will learn prudence from this accident, which might have been fatal. The moment the rattle-snake is apprehensive of danger, he sounds his rattle, and puts himself in a posture for defence. The rattle grows at the end of the tail, and is formed of several loose, hollow cells, of a horny kind of substance, that jingle one against another, and warn those who are near to be upon their guard. He inflicts his dang-rous bite with two fangs, or teeth, that are quite distinct from those with which he eats his food. These fangs are small, sharp pointed, and furnished at the roots with small bladders of a subtle poison. There are two species of the rattle-snake, distinguished by their colour; the one black, the other yellowish brown; it is elegantly mottled, and its eyes are of a brilliant red. The bite of the water rattle-snake is also poison- ous, but less so than that of the land. This creature differs much from the common rattle-snake, as it has neither fangs nor rattle; I cannot guess, there- fore, why it has obtained this name. The black snake is another common reptile in Carolina: it is very long, and pursues those who attack i attac coun destr of m in th( order anoth summ Th some the gc Tliel . rattle. cause Rej Tliere sides commc The kind oi several to the < sooner ture to courage have pi dogs ai whence Invulnei as it is j |l d the leaves that I had e immediate nces of the for several I hope will 'hich might rchensive of himself in a It the end of )ose, hollow ,t Jingle one e near to he ig':>rous bite listinct from 'se fangs are le roots with ere are two ed by their vish brown f a brilliant also poison- his creature snake, as it uess, tliere- n reptile in those who _4.* — 1, 75 attack it, but its bite is of no consequence The country peoj.le seldom kill it, because it is u;efui i„ destroying rats and ™ice. It is wonderfully fond ot m,lki and frequently steals into dairies, which ■n these southern parts are mostly underground, in order to preserve the milk, which couW not, i„ another s.tuat,on, be kept sweet for three hours i." summer. * "' There are many other kinds of harmless snakes ^me of them beautifully variegated; paniculariv The Macassm snake is almost as poisonous as the rattle-snake; and it is a more insidious enLl, b cause .tg.ves no warning of its approach. Reptdes are numerous here, and of great variety 1 here are many speces of frogs and lizards; be- sides the chameleon, which is by „o mean 1 common. The «-aters and swampy places abound with that kind of crocodde called a caiman. We have seen several upwards of twelve feet long, from the head to the extremity of the tail. If on land, they will sooner ta e to flight at the sight of man, .ha 'ven- ture to attack h,m; but in the water they are more courageous, and have been known, when hounds Imve pursued a stag into a river, to seize both the dogs and the deer, and pull them to the botton,, whence they never rise again. Th.s creature' invulnerable coat of mail renders him formidable as tt IS almost impossible to wound him, except his k2 antagonist ni' ;. lit iJlitl i?i 76 antagonist lias sufficient address („ l,it exactly be- tween liis scales. If 3'oiir son is pi„„o to tliat want of consider- alion which is nalnial „, his age, 1 have the satis- lamion of assuring yon, that he is endued with a noble generosity of disposition, that nianifests ilseir in tender sympathy will, every human bcin.» that l.e sees pining with affliction. He one dav pressed >i>e t„ t.uke hi,n to the slavc.marlis .TOLmg master, ibr whose p>-eservation, I bc- heve, he would lay down his life. If by thi.s com pl.ance I have ensmed him a faiihful servant I '"'Pe you will not thud: I Inne acted impro. pcrly. » ^ The life of a j^lante,-, v.hilst they reside upoti vneu- estate., is miserably dtdl; as they generally in-c ,n a solitary house, snrroundetl on all sides by "U,< and wate,-, depriyc.l of the cheering inflt,ence of pleasant prospects or agreeable nelghbouritood. Ihe negroes, and their overseers, are the only per- sons wuh whom they converse, the comfort of the former ^lillli 78 former depends much upon tJ,c disposition of the atter.who can eiil,eH,ghten or increase their la- bour ■„ the field. In ,l,e „,„n,h of June, when tlio swamps are watered for the (irst ,ime, the fear of postdenful disorders eonipels the planters to exchange tins ,n<.plsh life for the gaieties of Charles, own, and leave the ,«anage„,ent of the plantation o a wh„o overseer, who, for gain, risks his life by the certainty of a dreadful fit of illness: should he ^urv.ve the firs,, ho is sure of a second attack, though probably slighter, at the san.e seaso., next year. All the planters keep great numbers of oxen, cows, and p,gs, almost free of expence, as they turn l.em out to get their own living, i„ ,he large forests belonging to the plantations. Few people here will allow that the capacity of the negroes is equal to that of the white people As far as I can judge, making an allowance for the disadvantages of slavery, they are much „pon a par with those of their own condition of life We met with one, in Norfolk, who had taught l.imself to read and write whilst a slave; and, by dint of industrj- at over hours, had acquired a considerable lund of knowledge. A negro, named C^sar, obtained a pension from tlie state of South Carolina, for discovering a remedy for assuaging the pain and swelling of the oite of a rattle-snake. In order to prove the efficacy of his remed,, C>csar, wuh Roman fortitude, provoked one of tliose Dsition of the ease their la- June, when nic, the fear planters to s of Charles- »e plantation s his life by : should he ond attack, season next crs of oxen, IS they turn arge forests capacity of ite people, nee for the "h upon a life We ht himself ^:iy dint of nsiderable ' sion from avering a ng of tljc reined \, ■ i one of those 79 those dangerous animals to bite i/ni, and then pre- vented the baneful effects, by dressing the wound after the manner he had recommended. Our time has passed away cheerfully at Charles- town, one agreeable entertainment succeeding an- other; which is according to the gay disposition of the inhabitants, and their extreme attention to strangers. The ladies mix a great deal in company, though they are modest, and observe the strictest decorum in their behaviour. Both men and women lose the bloom of youth very early. At thirty, a woman looks old ; and it is not uncommon to see the mother of a young child with the wrinkles of sixty. The climate is very mild. In the depth of winter there are seldom frosts that last longer than a few days; but the people are so enervated by the excessive Jieats of summer, that they require large fires; and more fire-wood, in proportion, is consumed in in Charlestown than in Philadelphia. The town begins to wear a melancholy appear- ance, from the breaking out of the yellow fever. Numbers are ill, and all intercourse with the coun- try prohibited, except by the negroes, who are not subject to the disease. This circumstance has determined me to take my departure without delay. The necessary prepara- tions requiring my attendance, I must conclude, with the greatest respect, yours, &e. H. FRANKLIN. LETTER f f I H !■ I' I . ! i 1 ' i : it f 1 'i m ^■^•*.. ^••'. - ^2 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST Target (mt-3) // w 1.0 I.I I. ^ Uuu l>-25 III 1.4 1.6 V] ^>. A^! ^^# .. <^ Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 "^^'^"- prodt,ctive nature that i, ' " "* *"^'' " Lau 2 ; "'"""''''' ""'^'•^' ^""'^ of 'he most beaut, ul flowenng shrubs you can im-,.ine T Wished Catherine had been with n,e tn f I n^irea the variety of magnoh-a:';::,: t",;t otrd-rt;;:i'--r"^^^^^^^^^^^^ e^'edmyLl^itytitS^^^^^^ earthen nr.^ ; • ' "'^*^' "" 1 round an wor ' LI ;:rr:;i ^■""^"-'' ^"^ haslet. very antique appearance: but how if J-^ there, or to what people it belo,,rd,::; co^eitu, though It puzz ed Mr Franklin f f conjectures abot.t it for some hlurs T - T are the iho^o ^ "'« nours. These islands are the abode of numerous herds of the roe bn.k or deer, which are often attacked bv tf, solves, and bear, who nir ^ '"^ ^'^^'''^ of thp , ' '* '^'"P"^^ ^''^' soveriffnty ot the woods. Here are nUr. ^ "^ ritre are also racoons, foxes, squirrels, M|un' cies < Norw out t hilloc ; ofmj 1 Ironi I touch( to my the t ; stench I mal V i numer I a cat, I it has ^ uprigh ' is pari to the I H the bra pended is a sor and th They enjoy a a bird. As I shall m It is les shape, ( a fox. 85 «|uiiiels, rats, and mice, but no moles. 0„e sne c.es of the m. is twice as large as the com.nm. Norway rat. I„ the night-time thi., creature throws out the earth to make its burrows, and raises little hdlocks which have a singular appearance. I„ one "f iny walks I was struck with something hanging l.on. the boughs of a tree like a dead animal : I touched ,t w.th a switch I had in my hand, when to my surprise, it leaped to the ground, slunk into the thickets, and almost poisoned me with its stench. I soon found it was an opossum, an ani- mal very common in many parts of America, and numerous in these islands, it is about the size of a cat, and Us head is shopcd like that of a fox- « has small round, black, piercing eyes, and t-pngh black ears, edged with white; its tail IS partly covered with scales, and is of great use to the creature, as it is long enough to twist round the branches of trees, whilst the body hangs sus- pended. The greatest peculiarity of the opossum 's a sort of pouch under the belly, in both the male ■.md the female, where they hide their young. Ihey feed on canes and other vegetables, and enjoy a feast when they are nimble enough to catch a bird. As I know your fondness for natural history, I shall make no apology for describing the racoon. It is less than the beaver, though resembling it in /hape, except the head, which is more like that of a lox. T<^ hue o ,.,u:*_ r . , , a fox. It has a white face, with broad. black It ■' » \ f' il Cir- cles if 86 cles round the eyes, that give a firmness to its countenance, though it is harmless: it is very active, and chmbs trees with great expertness. Birds' eggs and vegetables are its food; and so delicate is it in its taste, that it is extremely fond of oysters,, and frequents the shores at low water, not only for tlie sake of seizing the first unfortunate oyster that gapes open its shell, but also in order to wash its food before it is eaten. The hair of the racoon is useful to hatters, who mix it with that of beavers and rabbits; and its fiesh is good eating, as I ex. perienced yesterday, when we could get nothing else for dinner. Pole-cats and wild cats also inha- bit these woods; and such a variety of snakes and serpents that I cannot particularize them: the hogs eat them voraciously, and seem to have no fear of their bite. The rattle-snake is often dressed and sent to table as a daintv dish; but I could never overcome my prejudice sufficiently to taste them. The animals of these islands may serve for a description of those that inhabit the coasts of South Carolina and Georgia, as they are nearly alike. Though my letter is already so long, I cannot leave out my feathered favourites. Here are several kinds of eagles, who are the tyrants, not only of the air, but of the earth also; for they prey upon fawns and other young quadrupeds. The fishing hawk flies high and swiftly; his long pointed wings cleaving the air with vast force : hs lives lives ( dexte these none finch, cooing ture, ] The I saw on * in the : I a yard I was di I neck, b I copper I nished i I ^^^ f we hav( { their ne I the coci I feather ed with tioned. Thou me, my and the my best nness to its very active, ss. Birds' 3 delicate is [ of oysters, not only for oyster that to wash its be racoon is of beavers g, as I ex- jet nothing 5 also inha. snakes and them: the to have no ten dressed Lit I could ly to taste lerve for a ts of South arly alike, mnot leave i^eral kinds of the air, fawns and '; his long force: hs lives 87 lives entirely on fish, which he catches with great dexterity. Watcr-fowl, of numerous kinds, haunt these shores; and amongst the songsters there is none more melodious or beautiful than the painted finch, which is mournfully contrasted with the cooing of the ground dove, an elegant little crea- ture, not larger than a sparrow. The wild turkeys grow to a prodigious size. I saw one that had been hatched from an egg found in the forest ; he was a noble, majestic bird, at least a yard high, when he stood upright : his colour was dark dusky brown; but the feathers of the neck, breast, back, and shoulders, were tipped with copper colour, which in the sun looked like bur- nished gold. The American turkeys are twice as large as those we have in England, particularly as to height, as their necks and legs are longer in proportion. Both the cock and hen are brown, not having a black feather on them; but the cock is beautifully adorn, ed with variable shades, as I have already men- tioned. Though the novelty of a foreign country delights me, my heart glows at the remembrance of home, and the dear friends I left there, to whom I send my best love. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. m T T?rnrnT>ni 88 LETTER XIII. Mr. H, Franklin to Eikcin Middkton. St. Augustine. AIY DEAR FDWIX, IN order to trace the course of ou** jour- ney, you must study your map, and you will per. ceive that the river Apalachicola, which discharges its waters into tlie Gulph of Mexico, runs between East and West Florida. The great Mississippi divides "West Florida from Louisiana. East Florida is the present scene of our re searches. Arthur and I having left Sunbury, rode on to the banks of the Alatamalia river, through a level country, well watered by large streams, which take their course from extensive swamps and marshes. These swamps are daily improving into large, fruitful rice plantations. The road we have lately traversed is straight, wide, and kept in excel- lent repair; and in most parts is bordered with a light grove of various beautiful flower-bearing trees entwined with garlands of creeping shrubs, and 1 over-shadowed by tall spreading cypresses, oaks, and | cedars. The rice and corn plantations are deco- rated in a similar manner; and through the branches of the trees appear the neat, humble dwellings of I the inhabitants, who are cheered, not only all day, I but, I ever wi il 89 )arui dkton. St. Augitstbic. of oii»' jour- ^ou will per- il discharges i' uns between Mississippi of our re- •ury, rode on , through a earns, which ivamps and proving into )ad we have ?pt in excel. ered with a taring trees, shrubs, and Js, oaks, and s are deco- he branches dwellings of tily all day, | but I hut during moonlight nights, with tl the cheerful mock-hird, the wurbhng nc the plaintive turtle-dove. Inns not being very frequent, wc are accuB- touied to ride up, without ceremony, to private houses, where we are generally entertained with great hospitality, and are entreated to pass a day or two with the family, who seem gratified with the com})any of strangers. During one of these visits, when the heat oi" the day w as past, we made a Utile j)arty at fishing, a diversion in which I take no pleasure; but I was willing to comply with what- ever was kindly proposed for our amusement. Our friends led us to a shady retreat, in a beautiful grove of magnolias, myrtles, and sweet bay-trees, standing on the bank of a clear stream, that flowed with a ser- pentine course through the plantnlions. Wc pre- sently caught some fish. One kind of them, called the red belly, has brilliant colours. It is a small, flat fish, of an oval form. The top of the head and back are of an olive green, sprinkled with russet spots; the sides are of a sea green, inclining to azure, which gradually grows lighter till it changes to a silvery white, studded with specks of the finest green, russet, and gold colour; and the belly is of a bright scarlet. Near the gills is an oval parti- coloured spot, to which I can compare nothing but the eye in a pcacock^s feather. Our diversion, if the destruction of the finny tribe deserves that name, did not last long; for heavy rolling clouds announced >f1 H 00 nnnounced an approaching storm, that obliged wf to return as fast as possible to the house. Befort we could get shelter, the lightning flashed froiii cloud to cloud, and the peals of thunder resoundeii awfully through the air. We quickened our pace but were overtaken by a vivid flash of the forked lightning, that fell with irresistible fury on the trunk of a large pine-tree, not far from our patli, and set it in a blaze. The flames instantly enveloped the tree, and would have consumed it, if it had noi been extinguished by torrents of rain, that fell k a few minutes afterwards. Happily for us, the houst was in view, and fear adding wings to our feet, vn got in without any other great inconvenience thao the apprehension of danger, which was more on account of two young ladies of our party than for ourselves. The simple, unaffected kindness of this familj, which consisted of a father, mother; and two daughters, might have detained us agreeably for weeks: but the enjoyment of a fixed habitation was inconsistent with my plan, therefore I prepared for our departure in the morning. We followed the course of the Alatamaha river to Fort Barrington, through a well-inhabited district, j abounding in rice plantations. The vegetable ' productions were, many of them, striking and i beautiful; particularly a flowering shrub, from ] twelve to fifteen feet high, bearing large clusters of pale blue tubular-shaped flowers, speckled with imilarit lore ad [stream is (in the w; scarlet fr [from its drop off I assumes I Thist JOgeeche, ?liinos. "^ ; relying u I through ^ us, in sui high pirn oaks, cy] tree, all i Theti cnujson at ubligcd u* )use. Lefore flashed froni ler resoundeii led our pace of the forked fury on the )m our path, lly enveloped if it had noi I , that fell in us, the houst our feet, we enience thac vas more oo irty than for this famil), r. and two ^reeably for bitation was prepared for laha river to ted district, J vegetable riking and irub, from 'ge clusters ickled with • Crluison 91 riinson on the inside. At the. bottom of each clu»- Jer grows a sort of fence, formed of leaves of a deli- ;ate white, edged with rose-colour, which at a dis- ance look like roses, and give the shrub an uncom- on appearance. We reached the southern shore of the river, by cans of a ferry. Our negro, Sancho, pointed out us, near this place, the traces of an ancient Indian own, which he knew by conical mounds of earth, rtfully heaped up, perhaps in remembrance of lomc famous warrior or victory, like some of those eft by the Danes in England; an instance of limilarity in the customs of savages with nations ore advanced in civilization. The edge of the itream is adorned with large, tall trees, which grow jin the water, called the wj.ssa coccinea, that bear a 'scarlet fruit, larger than an olive, used sometimes, from its pleasant acid, instead of limes: the leaves drop off* as the fruit ripens, and the whole tree assumes a scarlet hue. This tree is not seen further north than the Great Ogeeche, where they receive the name of Ogeeche limes. We soon left the cultivated country, and relying upon Sancho to direct our course, passed through an uninhabited wilderness, which presented us, in succession, with dark, grassy savannahs, and high pine forests; often varied with red and white oaks, cypress, hickory, cedars, and the cucumber tree, all of a great size. The transition from rich flourishing settlements, tQ <• / 9J2 and „y eompan,o„ was clmnned with th. novo 1 of 'lie co„,„va„ces we wore obliged t,. ado,, o'lr aecommodatfon. VVe chose ,1,/ ,'^ spots tor o(,r rc\slino..pl,^ees uJirw. '-^ shelter from ihc t)ioIu .1 . ^P^^'^'' '^"^^ ^«™^ ,1,1 . ^^ f'"^ ^'^^^'S ^VltJl pieces oflnri hem of ] • 1 , ^''^"^^'^ '^'^^'1 ^'^. «ver ix Ltet T\"r "^ '"^^^""-^^'> '™ '^'-■Jiiciie iis to iTiPof- \i' WK ^ was a .'nrl. 1 1 •. cow-pen, near whict inhabitants and ,„•„]" ■■ W°P™'' ■«-, udgi.int flowers, wei-p «/.n,. • j "i'-ations; and in „, • T '" '^''^^ *'■""'' «P«ies ofVal ■ '''""''^' ^ ''"ni""'ivc "l^i^iieb or ivaJroia, with «n'l no r /i roso colour: eroiiiK of i i !^ "* ^""'^ gcneraJij' fingon t product Savanni I did south til I to-niori'c ^ ilcrs of country. in pleasant to luej with the novclf gcd to adopt fo the pleasantc^; ' we opened ou provisions. VVii^ ^t night, Sanclic f>Jt's, and fornict I pieces of bail;, nd. In order spread the ski ^\'ith us, over. collected iroi formed a cone! urney we wer -n, near whic! e civilly enter. venison. >y curious rw • High, opcc and extensivt ' appropriatt ^ an almojij crs of lar^fj ' (^ly saiidv ' diminutive fs of a deep > and while forests, and generally 93 :cncrally grow on sandy heiglus, wlierc we fro. uently saw the dens or caverns, dug by tlie great nd-tortoise, called here gopher: the animal re- eats within them by day, and sallies forth at nin-bt II quest of pre V. '^ I The same scene Continued till we reached St. lavfs river, where, though the soil is sandy, >cach-trees, Indian corn, rice, cotton, and indigo,' 'irive exceedingly. Ine savannahs in the neighbourhood of this ■ivcr are enamelled with flowers of all colours: iolcts, lupins, amaryllis, and a beautiful species f die sensitive plant, with flowers of a bright •ose colour, are scattered in wild profusion, amidst |groves of the most luxuriant fbrest-trees. Still f\,r- |ther south is another river, or rather chain of |akes, running parallel with the sea, called St. John's, which is navigable from one end to the other. . St. Augustine, though dignified by the title of Icapital of East Florida, is a very small town, stand- |.ng on the sea coast, which enables it to receive the products of the Havannah, and convey them to Savannah and Charlestown. I did not intend to have gone further towards the I south than St. Augustine ; but an agent is to set off to-morrow, for one of the trading houses on the bor- ders ot George's Lake, in the interior part of the country, and Arthur's desire to take the advantage of I ;ij 1 I 94 of his company is so great, that I have compj With h,s wishes; an excursion that I expect%vill supply us with matter for your future amuse, ment — ^Adieu. HENRY FRANKLIK LETTER XIV. Arthur MiddUton to his Brother Edzvin. MY DEAR BROTHER, ^U Augustine. difficulties If^ ■""'' ^""^^^ °^ ""^ I''^''^««=« «nd aiflicu ties of our journey, through the almost uncultivated parts of the country o ' the shl"! St. John s nver. We have penetrated as far as S Juan's, and wandered into the interior p Js i! ever curiosity or inclination pointed th™ " ciLs^;;^"^^^'^ P"'-. "orpop'u J c.t es, nor other works of men; we have beheld with admiration the works of God, displayed he wild majestic scenery of the sublim! fo 1 that have stood uninterrupted for ages, and h ' afforded shelter to innumerable tribes of animaro whose different forms, habits, and peculiarities in seekinsr ' have complied t I expect will future amuse. 95 keeking their prey, avoiding the FRANKLIN, Edzvi in. St. Augustine. pleasures and I the almost the shores of I as far as St. parts, when, he way. If lor populous have beheld lispJayed in ime forests, 3j and have f animals of ^d reptiles, iliarities in seeking enemies, and rear- g their young, afford a continual fund of amuse- nent, that raises new wonder by their variety, and ;he ingenuity of tlieir contrivances to obtain 'their nds, which has been implanted in them by their "ise Creator. Never have my thoughts been more devoutly •aised to Heaven, than in some of our rambles :hrough these magnificent forests; especially of an jvening, when we have prepared our bed of dried leaves, under the canopy of a branching oak, or a lofty pine; the moon's silver rays casting a modest light through the trees, and the whip-poor-will ulling us with his melancholy note to sleep; as- |isted by the lowing of distant herds of cattlJ, or |the shrill whooping of the crane. Of a morning |we have been awakened by the beams of the new- ;risen sun, and the cheerful crowing of the wild turkey-cocks, calling to each other from the tops lof the highest trees. In spring they begin at break lot day, and crow till sun-rise, saluting their fellows jOn the return of light. I cannot give you an idea |of what I felt at the first view of these forests, com- I posed of such a variety of trees, superior in beauty land grandeur to any I had ever beheld befbre; but I I will try to give a faint description of a (ew of the « most striking. The laurel magnolia reaches to the height of an hundred feet: the trunk is perfectly upright, rising m the form of a stately column ; the milk-white flowers, ''•\': ih. 96 I 1,11 91! Si I* Ht>wers, resembling full-bl by a circle of dark-green shining leaves, Uiat uvn roses, are surroundt set them oft to great advantage; in the centre stand, the young cone, which is of a Hesh-colour, and j towards autumn grows very large and changes to a cnmson and as it opens, shows multitudes ofH coral-rcd berries, which hang from the cones by ,V -lute s, ky thread. The wood of this tree, wlien J scanned, ^ of a straw colour, and harder than that I ot the poplar. »'' The palmetto royal, or Adam's needle, is a sin- i gular tree: they grow so thick together, that a bird can scarcely penetrate between them. The stiff leaves of the sword-plant, standing straight out' from the trunk, form a barrier that neither man "or beast can pass: it rises with an erect stem about ten or twelve feet high, crowned with a chaplet of dagger-like green leaves, with a stiff sharp spur at the end: this thorny crown is tip. Ped With a pyramid of white flowers, shaped like a tuhp or a lily. To these flowers succeed a lar^e frutt, much like a cucumber in form, but when npe, of a deep purple colour. Garlands and lbs- toons of creeping shrubs hang upon the branches of the lorest trees, and seem to bind them together Amongst others, grape-vines of uncommon sIm chmb round the trunks, and twine to the very top' but the fruit is small and ill-tasted. ' The long moss fi.xes itself, and takes root on the arms of the trees; and hangs pendant, like long " Streamer; height it gene 97 re surrounded ^ves, that set centre stands ^-colour, andi d changes to ' nultitudes of^ le cones by a is tree, when Jer than that ■die, is a sin- % that a hird . The stiff. straight out neither man erect stem, ned with a with a stiff •own is tip,. shaped Jike ?eed a larrre . . but wlien ds and fes- e branches n together, imon size, e very top, 'oot on the like Ions' streaiijcrs stamors of many feet in length, waving in the wmd m a fantastical manner. I„ order to prepare It ior use, .t ,s thrown into shallow water and ex. posed to the sun, where it soon rots, and the furry outside IS dissolved; when taken out, beaten, and I " ,''!''^' "<«'""g ■•'^'nains but the inside fibre, 1 wh.ch are black and like horse-hair, and are equally proper for stuffing mattresses, chair-bottom,, saddles &e. The Spaniards in South America, we are tok^ work them into cables. Cattle and deer are glad m the winter season, to feed upon this moss, whilst It is fresh. One species of the cypress, from its prodigious height and size, strikes the beholder with awe- It generally grows in the water, or on low, mois^ smiations, near the banks of great rivers and lakes I """' "'■" '"^«^d several months in the year with I water. The lower part of the trunk spreads out I mto many divisions, like buttresses, that seem de. signed to support the vast body of the tree, and form large, strong, serpentine roots, that strike off m every direction. The main trunk rises from hose hke a straight pillar, to a prodigious height, and then divides mto a wide, spreading top, like a canopy, where eagles securely fix their tiests- cranes, storks, and pRroquets, venture to approach the royal bird, and often perch on these inacces. Me blanches. The paroquets are allured by the seeds, which are their favourite repast. The trunk ot th« tree, hollowed out. forms an excellent cannp. * and / I tj! 98 and is frequently used for that purpose. Many trees, shrubs, and plants, of a more diminutive size, deserve a stranger's admiration. One species of hibiscus is extremely elegant : it is a very tall shrub, growing like a pyramid, adorned with large, expanded, crimson flowers. Besides these, and hundreds more, equally remarkable for their beauty, the shrubs are overrun by a pale pink convolvolus, with a deep crimson eye, which forms a delicate contrast with its dark green leaves. In this excursion we have sometimes taken up our abode for the night near the banks of a river, or on the borders of a lake, where I have often amused myself in watching the pelicans catch fish. Sancho, who is a good marksman, shot one of them; it is larger than a tame goose, with very short legs and webbed feet : its bill is of a great length, and bent like a scythe; but the large pouch beneath it is the most extraordinary partj of the bird, and seems calculated to carry water, or hide the prey that it has caught. The colour is much like that of a gull. Sancho's gun has ge- nerally procured us a good supper: we were sure of either curlews, willets, snipes, sand-birds, ot some kind of water-fowl; to which we frequently added oysters, that were to be found in abundance in the water close to the shores. Mr. Franklin and I performed the office of cooks: we kindled a fire, by rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, and then contrived to roast our fowl with a spit of oaiiCllu S M rons, I us, bu \ long ti I worn .' in spit J had str I coverec I fishing. Jour su I the tint .; islets en ': presente fowl we] ffest; ar halfspn land hidj |young I I still surf unconsci( trout, w] subtle all hed of gi Py seat, ffbrmed o *fish, as a Many trees, size, deserve »f hibiscus is ub, growing , expanded, d hundreds beauty, the rjonvolvolus, s a delicate 9d r concert at Sancho's makinff. Ou birds chaunted ourJuIIaby. The buzz woods, where the qu'toes, (a huge species of s taken up of a river, have often leans catch n, shot one , with verj of a great the large linary part arry water, rhe colour ;un has ge- ere sure of >, ot some ntly added nee in the lin and I led a fire, ether, and a spit of SanciiO B ing of mus- restlessness of °sea fo^wT t7 ^"'''? '^' ""''' ^"^ «i sca-fowi, thousands of toons Un i had strayed from mv -! "' ^^'"""S I covered 'Jzzzr'z': ^r™'^ ipreented a charming scene: multitudes of water Iff '"^'^ «-'<"'g their fbod, before tl J miSt f^^ ; amongst others, 1 remarked the "L^ ^^ a d h.d.„g d,emselves i„ the tuft, of long !^: y^ng broods of the summer teal skimmel 2 ;^t.ll surface of the water, following the^ o^^ i-~s ^danger, til, overtak^b^,:^;:; ; °" ' *^°' "> his turn, became the prey of t.h^ |-btle alligator. In a shallow part, flo'^, te^l bed of gravel, beneath the rock where I had chZ^ 1^. .^ a number of little py„m,idal l!^^ ^"sli, as a secure place of refuee for JVi^ „„.._! "* from ,.,, '• *'■' » f 100 from the attacks of their natural enemy, the gold, fish. Small companies of the holdest of the old cray-fish ventured out, and defied the gold fish,: who continually returned to the charge. The sight of this hattle was new, and interested my attention so much, that I never perceived a hu^re alligator, that lay concealed under the edge of the projecting rock on which I sat: he was at least eighteen feet long, and covered with an impene- trable coat of mail. In one dreadful moment he darted out of the water, opened his terrific jaw, and spouted both wind and water out of his nostrils, Resistance was vain: flight was my only refuge, His unwieldly size made it diflficult for him to climb over the edge of the promontory, which gave me an instant to take to my heels, and endeavour to ascend a tree. l had not reached the first branches, when an Indian hearing my cries, rush. ed out of the thickets, and, with heroic courage,! came to my deliverance. Happily, he was armel with a club as well as a tomahawk. Being pre. pared for the attack, and extremely active, he struck the alligator a violent blow across the head mthaclub, which stunned him a httle: before he could recover himself, a second stroke fell with still greater violence, and deprived him of the power of moving his jaw. He attempted to get away, but my Indian friend was too nimble for him, and dis. patched him with his tomahawk, I descended the tree, and expressed my gratitude, I street. ing a va the frigl mind. Reme and tell butterflii send to ] as ny, the gold. it of the old he gold fish, hai'ge. The nterested my ;eived a huge ? edge of the was at least I an impene- 1 moment he rific jaw, and his nostrils, only refuge, for him to , which gave id endeavour ed the first cries, rusli. oic courage,. 2 was armed Being pre- ' active, he )ss the head 3: before he ell with still ;he power ot t away, but im, and dis- 101 rest y gratitude, as as well as I could, by signs: by this time, the of our party ca.ue up, and heard with horror the particulars of my escape. Mr FranUin prconted the Indian with several |t"nkets, and a bottle of rum, of which they are immoderately fond; and accepted his invitation to Ins village, which was only two miles off. There I ^"'^ ^^'™" ^'S'" «'• t«» Imbitations, i„ a row or || stt-eet, fecng a fresh-watcr stream, covered with ■ yellow hhes. Some of the young men were naked up to their hips, in the water, fishing with rods and lines; whilst many of the boys were diverting themselves in shooting frogs with bows and arrows Our kmd conductor led us to his hut, where his I wife roasted acorns for our supper, and prepared a I d^h of rice mixed with oil made from the acorns of a hve oak. I retired to rest, but could not I forget the alligator: his image pursued me in my I sleep, I even fancied that he had drawn me under water. The return of day rejoiced me, and present- ing a vanety of different objects, diverted me from the frightful idea that had taken possession of my mmd. ^ Remenaber me tenderly to Catherine and Louisa, and ten them I have collected a number of beautiful butterflies and insects for their cabinet, which I shall I send to England by the first opportunity. Your aflTectionate ARTHUR MIDBLETON. LETTER 1 . 1,' *.i.» 10^ t I LETTER XV. Jrt?mr Mlddhton to Jus Brother Edtdn. .,-- ^„ Taekau'tlu. MY DEAR EDWIN, THE fear of extending my Jast letter to an immoderate length, obliged me to omit several tbmgs I wished to mention, that we saw in the neighbourhood of Lake George, which I must now do, before I proceed with our journey. I mistook vast clusters of an aquatic plant, united together by its fibrous roots beneath the water, for a multitude of islets of different sizes; but was soon convinced of my error by Sancho, who tore two or three of them from the rest: they are not unlike a lettuce, though the leaves are firmer, and of a yellow green. They are first produced near the shores, where they gradually spread in deep water, and form delightful green floating plains of a great length, frequently inhabited by serpents, frogs, otters, cranes, herons, curlews, and jackdaws. The snake-bird haunts the borders of all the rivers and waters of Florida. The head and neck * are extremely slender, and the latter uncommonly long; the bill is likewise long and pointed : all the upper part of the bird is as black and glossy as a raven; the bosom is of a cream-colour; the tail is lon^ I, iw|| long, and, to as branc anv sudd( and i) minul spot ' above which the bi Inn over tl ;; race o \ life in water i sun-ris land, b toward 1 by bird The seems t deposit The e^ usual c] son ena air. The equals t 103 Edxinn» Tatkau'ilu. Jast letter to omit several saw in the I must now >Iant, united e water, for ut was soon | f 10 tore two i not unlike r, and of a >d near the deep water, \ of a great tnts, frogs, kws. of all the * 1 and neck ! icommonly 3d : all the j^lossy as a the tail is lon^ long, of a deep black, tipped with silvery wh very white, and, when spread, is like a fan. These birds lo_ assemble together in companies, upon the d^ branches of trees that h ang the over the water. If any thing alarms them in this situation, they suddenly drop into tlje water as if they were dead, and appear to sink to the bottom ; but rise in a few minutes to the surface, at a vast distance from the spot where they fell, when nothing is to be seen above the water, but the slender head and neck, which look very much like a snake, and from ihil , the bird takes it name. I Innumerable niyraids of small flying insects hover over the streams of this country : they are of that j race called ephemera, from the shortness of their ; life in the fly state. These insects rise out of the water near the shore, in countless numbers, before sun.rise, when they generally take their flight to the > land, but return to their native element in swarms towards evening, when they are greedily devoured* by birds, frogs, and fish. I The grand business of their short existence ^ seems to be that of laying their .^^, which they J deposit in the water, as they die soon afterwards. Ihe ^^g hatches, and the larva undergoes the usual changes in its oozy bed, till the warm sea- son enables it to burst it? shell and rise into the air. * The variety of fish tliat inhabit the waters, equals that of the birds, and far exceeds my powers of % W u Ml, ' f :ky brown, J. sides and to scarlet; cen, gold, i of a deep [ green and The flesh ie a good inhabitant rida: they r to thirty sea-turtle, n boiled, le-looking creature, N I 105 creature, having a sort of snout, with a hooked bbak; the corners of the mouth are wrinkled, and armed with long pointed warts, which he can stretch out or contract as he pleases. This animal, when hungry, buries himself in the slushy bottoms of rivers, where they are covered with Hags and long sedgy grass, leaving an opening just big enough for his head, which ho dart, out as quick as lightning, and seizes the first young duck, frog, or fish, that unfortunate i^ passes near him.' The gopher, or great land tortoise, iliough of the same family, differs very much from the creature I have Just described, both in his place of residence, and m the substance of his shell, which is so hard, that a man miglit stand upon it without hurling the tortoise. He makes his den only on high dryland- hdls, nistcad of choosing watery places; the eo-crs are larger than a musket ball, and the flesh is excel- lent food. In one of our rides, a plain lying open before us, Mr. Franklin called my attention to a large hawk, which seemed to make many efforts to *^ise, bnt from some cause, which we could not perceive, was unable to iirt himself from the ground. On coming near hi -i, we tound that a very long coach-whip snake had wreathed himself close round his body, and that he had but one wing at liberty. I alighted with an intention of parting them, but, whether from fear of me, or mutual consent, (the antagonists *" '^ being HP 11 II ''IP wPbIiI 113 'mm ti! k'l Sri loa being nearly equal,) I k without any interfe high now not, thev separated rence; the bird rose into the air, and the snake crept into a iigher regions o thicket. It IS most likely tl>at the hawk began the affray, with the design of devouring the snake; but the reptile dexterously coiled himself round his body, so as to disarm him of the power to injure We are now at Taskawila, an Indian town, to which, on our entrance, we were welcomed by a company of young people of both sexes, who con. ducted us to the chiefs house, which is built on nsing ground, and is distinguished from the rest both by Its size, and a large flag being hoisted on a nigh staff, at one corner of the roof. The chief, being acquainted with the trader who I was with us, and hearing he wa« arrived, came to us, as we had alighted from our horses. He was accompanied by several old men; the first saluta- tation was a hearty shake of the hands, (or rather arms,) saying, « You are come." We followed h.m to an apartment prepared for the reception of their guests. The pipe being filled, was then handed round as a token of friendship: and a large, bowl of what they call thin drink, was set down on a small, low table, out of which every person helped himself to as much liquor as he pleased, with a great wooden ladle, till it had cone round ihe circle. " This chief is known by the title of the cow- 7. <4 107 ey separated j rose into the I s crept into a j *^k began the e snake; but f round his er to injure an town, to corned by a Js, who con- is built on ni the rest, loisted on a f trader who j d, came to . He was rst saluta- (or rather i followed reception was then p: and a :, was set ch every lor as he bad gone Srf th e cow- i,„ „ , keeper: he assembled his council, that they might I hear the trader's proposals, for bartering with his people European goods, for furs and the skins of wild beasts. The bargain was soon struck, and both sides seemed satisfied. You may believe I was highly gratified in being present at this conference, the persons, dress, and manners of the Iiidians being so new to me. They are of a copper colour, and have thick, straight, black hair, generally a flat nose, high cheek bones, and small eyes. This chief is a tall, well-made man, of a cheerful countenance and behaviour; yet there is something ferocious in his look, that, if he were angry, would make one tremble. He has been a great wairior, having many captives, who attend him as slaves : they waited on him with the most obsequious attention, and appeared very much afraid of him. We partook of a great feast, consisting of venison, stewed in bear's oil, fresh corn cakes, milk, and hominy : our drink was honey and water, which I found cool and pleasant. This town is the capital of the Alachua tribe, and contains about thirty habitations, which are each formed of two distinct houses, of nearly the same size. The dwelling house is divided into two equal apartments, one of which serves fur the kitchen and common hall, the other is the general chamber for the family. The other house stands at a small distance, and mostly has two stories, The 1 I :■■ -/ ■ i \ -■■I ■ f 10« I'be end towards the dwelJIna'-h by posts or pillars, and there g-house IS supported is an open loft, to which are no other stairs than a moveable Jaauer: this is a cool, airy apartment, wJiere the chief of the famdy receives company, or reposes himself in the heat of the day. The other half of this buildmg is closed on all sides with notched logs. The rooms are used for store-houses, where they lay up corn, potatoes, and other provisions. Every dwelhng stands in the middle of a square yard bounded by a low bank, formed with the earth taken out of the yard, which is always carefully swept. Every town has a public square, or council, house, where the chief and the elders assemble to transact public affairs. I have been particularly exact m describing this town, as I imagine it will serve for a picture of the rest we shall visit in our future travels. Taskawila is charmingly situated on a high, swelling ridge of sand-hills, opposite to a large, beautiful lake; the sloping bank terminated on one side by extensive forests, composed of orange groves, overtopped by grand magnolias, palms, poplars, oaks, &c. Huge herds of cattle, belonging to the cowkeeper and his townsmen, graze in a savannah that stretches out at some distance from the town. In this extensive plain are herds of sprightly deer, and squadrons of well-proportioned, fleet Siminole horses, which live almost in a state of nature. In order to make us more completely welcome, a party of young Indians, on horseback, were were di i of the j honour I public s I joints, } and ket disagree paunch into thi as seasG disguise dish. We a our stay indulging the hors( of these j but as th li Arth MY DEi! account o] Siminole supported to which e ladder: t chief of i himself f of this bed logs. I ere they . Every re yard, be earth carefully council- emble to ticularly le it will t in our situated losite to minated ^ orange palms, longing ;e in a ?e from 3rds of 'tioned, a state pletely seback, were 109 were dispatched to the savannah, to pick out some I of the best cattle, to feast the whole town in I honour of our arrival. The feast was held in the I public square. The first course consisted of prime joints, well barbecued ; and the second of bowls and kettles of stewed fish and broth, with a very disagreeable dish called tripe soup, made of the paunch of the ox, cut and minced, and boiled into thin soup; but the aromatic herbs added as seasoning, were not sufliciently powerful to disguise the want of cleanliness in preparing this dish. We are continually making excursions during our stay here, that we may lose no opportunity of indulging our curiosity. I hear the tramplino- of the horses at the door, waiting to carry us ontne of these jaunts. I wish you could be of our party; but as that is impossible, I must bid you adieu. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. . LETTER XVI. Jrt7mr Middleton to Ms Brother Ediciii. MY DEAR BROTHER, ''"""'" '^''' ""''''''• I CAxNNOT give you such a clear account of our route through the territories of the Simmole and Muskogee, or Creek Indians, in the southern 1-1 ■ f 11::! i, I '^■■■U I 110 t 1\ southern part of Georgia, as if we had travelled from one post town to another, along a high road, in a cultivated countr}'. We have passed through all the varieties of soil and surface that you can imagine — hill, dale, plain, and forest. Sometimes we have traversed over extensive savannahs, that maintain innumerable herds of deer, cattle, and Siminole horses, which are of a small breed, but beautifully proportioned; they enjoy their perfect liberty, and approach to the state of wild horses. When it is intended to catch one of them, a domestic horse, which is much nimbler, is used to overtake and entangle them. Every year, as they come of age, a troop of them is sent to Charlestown, where they are sold to the highest bidder. At other times we have taken our course through an enclosed country, covered with forests of such grandeur, that those who have never seen them can form no idea. Sometimes we have passed the course of rivers, and wandered over swampy mea- dows. Amongst the natural curiosities are those vast circular sinks, seen in many places in the neigh- bourhood of St. Juan''s river, which are situated generally in the midst of rocks, and formed by an extraordinary eruption from the earth, or probably from some mighty body of water restrained in its natural course. A person who was present at the formation of one of these receptacles of water, gave me the following aecouu' of the phenomenon. A noise, like a hurricane or \ thunder=stoniiT tremendous rushing thundt round, which inunda When courage sound fountaii high, a continu( forming distant at lengt is fifty ^ ; verge, v The wai with fisl: large alii TheS They arc country nerally j , rally divi gentle er swamps, retreats f supply tl abundanc( Huntin With the 3 travelled big] I road, 2d through '.t you can Sometimes inahs, that :attle, and breed, but eir perfect ild horses. a domestic overtake they come larlestown, dder. At h rough an s of such 1 them can )assed the impy raea- those vast he neigh- e situated ned by an • probably ncd in its lent at the ater, gave enon. A ricane or ler=storiiij thunder-storm round, \ 111 first alarmed h saw Uie earth overflowed t im; and W mg which rushed down a vail '\V tODTUtS, . ^y near the place. The jnundution soon overwhelmed the higher pounds' When he had recovered from his surprise, he took courage to go to the place whence the terrific sound proceeded, when he perceived a prodigious ountam u. tins spot, rushing upwards, many feet high, and delugmg the ground on all sides It contmued to flow in this manner for several days formmg a stream that discharged its waters into a distant lake. It gradually ceased to overflow, and at length confined itself within this basin, which IS fitty yards across, and continues full nearly to the verge, without once since overflowing its banks. The water is dear and well tasted, and crowded with fish, which satisfy the voracious appetite of a large alligator, which reigns lord of the place The Siminoles are a division of the Creek nation. Iheyare scattered tlxrough an extensive ran^re of country in East and West Florida, which is ere. nerally a fertile, well-watered level, hewer natu , rally divided into thousands of islets, knolts, and gentle eminences, by innumerable rivers, ]ake« swamps, and ponds, which afford them secure retreats from the sudden attacks of an enemy, and supply them with fish and wild game in P-reat abundance. Hunting is the principal occupation of the men With the hides of deer, bears, tigers, and wolves,' they 112 they purclmse clothes and domestic utensils from the traders. Their wants and desires are few, and easily satisfied, as appears from the cheerfulness of their countenances. The happiness that flows from the enjoyment of the natural affections between husband and wife, parent and child, is to be seen in their cabins: nor arc they insensible to the pleasures of society, dancing being a favourite amusement, accompanied with a simple sort of music. On some occasions they love to decorate their persons. A party of young warriors saluted us one day, as we were halting under a little grove of oranges and magnolias. They were all dressed and painted very smartly, and wore silver chains and ornaments; their crests adorned, after the Siminole mode, with waving plumes of feathers. After we had taken our departure from Taskawila, we visited the town of Talahasockte, on the banks of St. Juan, which is a remarkably clear stream, said to take its source in a great swamp, one hundred miles north of this town^ Here we were entertained at the trading house; and our companions unloaded their pack-horses, and exchanged their goods for deer-skins, furs, dry fish, honey, bees' wax, bears' oil, and some other natural productions. These Indians have large handsome canoes, which they form out of the trunks of cypress trees. Some of them conveniently accommodate from twenty to thirty persons. They descend the river in these canoes, on trading and hunting expeditions on disgustii debasenc In oi creek of of Indii women, to the d( when w faces wil Apala confeder ever put proposec union, r ment of The I the rive town, be isils from 2 few, and rfulness of flows from 5 between be seen in i pleasures nusement, >rate theii* ted us one grove of ressed and ;hains and J Siminole raskawila, e banks of ream, said ; hundred liter tain ed unloaded goods for ax, bears' e canoes, ress trees, ate from the river [peditions on 113 on the sea-coasts, and sometimes extend their voyage even as far as Cuba. A crew of these adventurers arrived, whilst we were there, loaded with a cargo of coffee, sugar, tobacco, and spirituous liquors, which cause the. destruction of many of the Indian tribes; for having once tasted rum, they have no longer the resolution to restrain \hemselves. A drinking bout followed the opening of this baneful treasure; quarrels ensued, and the peaceful scene was changed to drunkenness, brawls, and confusion. Our friend the trader had concluded his bar- gains, and we were glad to withdraw from such a disgusting picture of human nature in a state of debasement In our way to the town of Apalachuela, near a creek of excellent water, we found an encampment of Indians. The men were out a huntinir. The women, willing to have a peep at strangers, came to the door of their tents, veiled in their mantles; but when we paid our respects to them, showed their faces with great modesty of behaviour. Apalachuela is esteemed the capital of the Creek confederacy, and sacred to peace, no captives being ever put to death here. When a general peace is proposed, the deputies from the towns that form the union, meet here to deliberate on the accomplish- ment of the treaty. The great Coweta town, twelve miles higher up the river, on the contrary, is called the bloody town, because the Micas, chiefs, and warriors assem- ble rrV » 1 cap. 114 ble there when a general war is proposed; and .. tives taken in war are put to death at that place. Three day's journey brought us to Talassec, a town on the Tallajx^sse river, which is the north, eastern branch of the Alabama or Mobile river, Having passed over a vast extent of level countrv. varied by savannahs, groves where the squirrel and cameleon sport amongst the trees, lone swamps, and open pine forests, watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks, we altered our course towards the south, and approached the banks of the river, where Indian towns and plantations enlivened our road. Talassee stands in a fruitful plain, sheltered by a ridge of swelling hills. The houses consist of a wooden frame, with plastered walls, and roofs ol cypress bark : four of them compose one habitation, and enclose an oblong square. Plaving taken a fresh store of provisions, and procured a guide to set us in the great trading path for West Florida, we proceeded for eighteen miles through a grand forest, frequently affording us a view of Indian towns, and at night pitched our tent under the shelter of a venerable oak. The first part of our next day's journey lay across extensive grassy plains, enamelled with a profussion of strawberries, which allayed our thirst, and refreshed us inex' pressibly. To this open country succeeded a forest, which in some parts bordered the Alabama river. ' For nine miles we rode through a continued grove of dog-wood trees, which being in bloom were were rea times by us to the ' and pitcl ed a ref meadows the day Mobile, beds of which is evening disturbec and eart a pleasai scarcely different with the directly 1 on gentl harbour, Several i are navi residence tower bi fended b have han rambles, we enjoy own cole friendly ' 115 ; and cap. It place, Falassec, a the north, •bile river, 1 countrv, e squirrel c swamps, lumerable ic towards tlie river, veiled our sheltered consist of 1 roofs of abitation, ions, and ling path Jen miles us a view our tent first part e grassy V berries, us inex- a forest, river, ntinued bloom were were really beautiful. Wild forest scenes, varied at times by flowing rivulets and gentle hills, conducted us to the borders of the Schambe, which we forded, and pitching our tents on the opposite bank, enjoy- ed a refreshing night's rest. Low, swampy cane- meadows presented a less agreeable landscape than the day before. As we approached the bay of Mobile, we passed high rocky cliffs, that indicated beds of rich iron ore. We lodged at Taensa, which is a pretty high bluff, or bank of sand. The evening was sultry hot. About midnight we were disturbed by a tremendous thunder-storm. The air and earth were refreshed by the rain, and we had a pleasant ride to the city of Mobile, though it scarcely deserves that name. A few Europeans, of different nations, reside there, who carry on a trade with the Indians. From this place we proceeded directly for Pensacola, which is delightfully situated on gentle rising ascents, surrounding a spacious harbour, capable of containing a multitude of ships. Several rivers run into this bay, but none of them are navigable for large vessels. The governor'^s residence is a stone building, ornamented with a tower built by the Spaniards. The tower is de- fended by a fortress; and many of the inhabitants have handsome, convenient houses. After our long rambles, amongst savage tribes and a wild country, we enjoy a few days' repose, amongst people of our own colour and habits, who treat us with the most friendly hoipitality. Such „ ■:■.!»:■. 1 •. * mt-:. • i : • ■ I 1 m<- 116 Such a favourable opportunity for wrliinrr I would not neglect, believing you will be pleased to liear from your a/tcctionnte brother, ARTHUIl MIDDLETON. '♦■vvfcv**^,^ , LETTER XVII. Mr. Henry Franklin to Mrs, Mlddleton. Penmcoh. MADAM, IT is with pleasure I assure you that your son s health is improved by travelling, and his mind enlarged by associating with persons of different education and modes of life. For some weeks our time has been spent very n>uch amongst the Indian tribes. Their habits differ essentially from the Europeans. They are more the children of nature; and being unenlightened by the sacred truths of Christianity, yield in principle to revenge and cruelty, which we have been taught to subdue. Our acquaintance with this people is yet but slight; I can therefore only point out a L leading traits of their character, which, however n.ay probably afford you some amusement. The Muskogees, which are probably the most numerous tnbe of any within the limits of the United United tainous whence men an cxprOssi women, but the particuh laniTuisb to their they ass( scarcity and indi to a digr people. Their nations t Indian t house u] niony, ai well,'-' re] and imn they hav( pipe. ^ says, "I takes his I'al place towns, o1 and neffj There ar writing I pleased to ►LETON. leton. Pensacoh. that your his mind different •ent very )its differ more the td by tlie iciple to aught to •le is yet It a few lowever, le most of the United 117 United States, inhabit a hiJIy, but not a moun tamous couniry, abounding in creeks and rivulet. whence they arc often called Creek Indians The men are tali and well.shaped, their countenances expressive of magnanimity and independence The women, though delicately formed, are very short- hilt their features are often regularly beautiful' particularly their eyes, which are large, black, and languishing. Being very numerous, and exposed to their potent and declared enemy, the Chactaws they associate in large towns, which occasions great scarcity of game, and obliges them to be vigilant and industrious; qualities that form their manners to a dignified gravity, very conspicuous in the affed people. ° Their hospitality may serve as an example to nations that boast of being more civilized. If an Indian travels to a distant town, he enters the first house upon which he fixes his eye, without cere. niony, and says, « I am come." " You are—it is well,' replies the master or mistress of the house; and immediately the table is spread with the best they have, and his arrival welcomed with the social pipe. When sufficiently refreshed, he rises and says, " I go." « You do," is the answer; and he takes his departure without interruption. In seve- ral places we saw the vestiges of decayed Indian towns, often accompanied by a mount or terrace, and neglected orchards of peaches and plums! There are also barrows, or tombs of the dead, scat- tered ff > • i i; 1 1 I I I WM *t:f *f ■ ,f ■\ \ng from the opposite shore, unarmed, and "suspecting a hostile attack from the ^i f the bank of the river, and the moment the canoe reached the shore, singled out theiro^c ,' »d at one fire killed every person in it. tI!': canoe ' i , ''It 111 i I «• 7 I 1^^ 122 canoe happened to contain the family of Logan, who had long been a distinguished friend of the whites. This unworthy return provoked his vcn. geance. He accordingly signalized himself in the war which ensued. A decisive battle was fought in the autumn, be- tween the collected forces of the Indians and the Virginians. The Indians were defeated, and sued for peace. Logan, however, disdained to be seen amongst the suppliants. Eut, lest the sincerity of a treaty should be distrusted, from which such an eminent chief absented himself, he caused the fol- lowing pathetic speech to be delivered to Lord Dun. more, then governor of the province. " I appeal to any white man to say, if ever l)e| entered Logan's cabin hungry, and he gave hiiiij not meat; if ever he came cold and naked, and hel clothed him not. During the course of the last! long and bloody war, Logan remained idle in Iiisl cabin, an advocate for peace. Such was my love for the whites, that my countrymen pointed as they passed, and said, * Logan is the friend of white men.'' I had even thought to have lived with yoii,| but for the injuries of one man. Colonel Cresa) the last spring, in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the relations of Logan, not sparing! even my women and children. There runs not a| drop of my blood in the veins of any living crea- lure. This called on me for revenge. I have! sought it— I have killed many— -I have fully glutted ■~»« »iiwmm 123 glutted my vPngeance. For my countr,, I rejoice : f '!'""' f P--- B« do not harbour a thXh tUat m,„e .s the joy of fear. Logan never fel £ He w,U not turn on his heel to save his life. y^Z .s there to mourn for Logan? Not one." They are as warm in friendship as they are keen m vene-eance as I «,;n u v . "^ another fact ' *°" '^ ''" -'^"- "^ Colonel Byrd was sent to the Cherokee nation, to transact some business with them. It happened .ha. some of the borderers had just killedTe "r t»'o ot that „at.on. It was therefore proposed in the be put to death, m revenge for the loss of their -untrymen Among them was a chief called Silouee, who, on some former occasion, had con tracted an acquaintance and friendship with ColonJ andtu^' """' *° '"■" ^^"^^y "ight in his tent, d told h,m not to be afraid, they should not kiS hm, After many days' deliberation, however, the determmafon was, contrary to Siloue'e's ex! pectafon, that Byrd should be put to death, and »me warriors were dispatched as executioners. SJouee attended them, and when they entered the tent, he threw himself between them and Byrd. and sa,d to the warriors, « This man is my fZa] before you get at him, you must kill me." On wh.ch they returned; and the council respected the pnncple so much as to recede from their deter- mmation. m ' : ( I I! 5/ O TI leir J 24 Their government Is a kind of confederacy, united under the conduct of one chief. Every town or family has a peculiar chief, who is distinguished by a particular title, and whom tlie whites commonly call Sachem. The several towns or families that compose a tribe, have a chief who presides over it; and the several tribes composing a nation have a chief, who is the supreme ruler of the whole. These chiefs are generally men advanced in years, and distinguished by their wisdom in council. The chiefs of the towns settle the private affairs of their neighbours. The appointment of warriors, and settling differences between townships and families, are regulated at a council of the chiefs from the several towns; and making war, con- eluding peace, or forming alliances with the neigh- bouring nations, are the subjects of deliberation in the national council, attended by the principal warriors and chiefs from the towns, who are coun- sellors to the chief of the nation. In every town there is a council-house. Every tribe has a fixed place for the transaction of the public business belonging to it; and in every nation there is the council-house, where consultations are held on the affairs of the state. Their religious ideas are confused with strange superstitions and absurd fables. They believe in the superintending providence of a Supreme Being, whom they adore under the title of the Great Spirit, or Lord of the Universe. Him they mvo T flar, con- 125 mvoke for protection at home, and assistance i„ var; and honour hi.n by feasts, in order to procure chase ,,hen choice carcasses are presented, a-,d sometimes a white dog is sacrificed.'^ They ep^ I these ceremonies in spring, before the seed sp- I .no the ground; and after harvest, when they ha ^ gathered the produce. They believe also in L " — of uiferior deities; especially two, of whom t^ey relate a strange allegory, respecting the goo the good being, to whom they give a very hard In Jan name* had a twin brotherf. of an o^posi o' disposition under which they represent evil.'^^-he r ^andmother, say they, was cast down from uZ V , when she was with child of their mother, and felling on the back of a great turtle, beg n to form the earth. When the two brothers grew ul the evil one ever endeavoured to frustrate ife' good intentions of his beneficent brother. aI last they fought, and the earth shook at the combat Ihey passed over the continent of America; and according to their different agitations and tones of elieve in | J ; ''''^--' '-g"agcs. Such is their history ot the creation; and though very absurd ,Jf -re^thansomeofthefab^sof'thenaiof „ V " «^ '*«>'"• T Ta wiskaron. Indoostan. are coun- m' ll ki' -i-r-h^-V 126 Indoostan. When compared with all other sys« tems, how does the Mosaic account of the same great event rise in sublimity! But my observations on this subject, to you, are needless. I am, most respectfully, your's, HExNRY FRANKLIN New on the ago it ^ its adv buildin grand ] being ij LETTER XVIII. From Arthur Middkton to Ms Brother. NashtUk, DEAR EDWIN, *" AFTER a few days' rest at Pensacola, Mr. Franklin, whose mind is ever active, became impatient to pursue the object he had undertaken, and I was ready to follow him. We therefore took our departure in a boat, well stored, by the kindness of our friends, with every thing we could want; and keeping near the coast, upon which we observed several farms and plantations, proceeded to Pearl river. We landed on a small island of the same name: in the middle it rises to some height, but is nearly begirt with salt marshes, except a pro- montory composed of white clam-shells and sand. We embarked again, and were presently put ashore opposite to New Orleans, which we reached on foot, having disposed of our horses at Pensacola, Nev some of to our glowing tuberose perfectio The c in these grows 01 127 Sew Orleans is the capital of Louisiana, and stands on the east side of the Mississippi. A few years ago it was almost destroyed by a dreadful fire; but its advantages for trade are so great, that it is re- building very fast, and is likely to become the grand mart for the natural productions of the fer- tile and extensive country that borders the IMissis- sippi and the Ohio. Many of the inhabitants being ill of a pestilential fever, we decamped in haste, and having hired a boat, proceeded along the Mississippi to Manchac. During our row, we had leisure to admire this noble stream, which deserves the title of the Great Father of Rivers, that being the meaning of the word Mississippi. Every object that belongs to it bears the stamp of sublime grandeur. The banks rise high one above ano- ther, and are clothed with majestic trees. At Manchac the shores are fifty feet above the sur- face of the river; but even these are overflowed in the spring by sudden inundations. We saw at an Indian village, a few miles from the town, ma- nufactures of earthern-ware, and pretty baskets; some of the latter we purchased. In our way back to our quarters, we passed a charming garden, glowing with fine flowers, particularly the fragrant tuberose, which grows here in the open air to great perfection. The candleberry myrtle, or wax-tree, is common in these parts. It is a beautiful evergreen, that grows on wet, sandy ground, and produces great numbers : > ■ I'l^ }t numbers of large, round berries, which are covered with a coat of a waxy substance, preferred by the inhabitants to bees' wax, for candles. We suffered greatly from the stings of musqui. toes, iu our passage from Manchac to the Natches, a settlement that is often called the Mississippi territory. Though the climate is very unwholesome causing intermitting fevers in the summer and au' ' timin, numbers of emigrants fix their abodes thp-3, on account of the profitable culture of the lo.>g! woolled cotton, a plant that succeeds admirably in that soil. Here we were again obliged to procure horses, and join a party of traders who were going to Nashville. Except a few villages belonging to the Chicasaw Indians, there was no prospect of seeing a town, or the traces of a human habitation, for six hundred miles. Our company, of course, were under the necessity of loading a sufficient number of pack-horses with provisions for this cheary journey, not daring to rely on game and fish only, which we sometimes obtained on our way. Without attempting to weary you with the particulars of every day, I shall only say, that for nearly five hundred miles we traversed a sandy, level country, partly covered with pines, which would have been insufferably tedious, but for the ever-entertaining conversation and uninterrupted kindness of Mr. Franklin, whose conduct daily increases my esteen) and attachment to him. e covered id by the musqui- Natches, 'ississippi lolesome, ' and au- es th^-}, he Io».g- irably in ; horses, joing to ging to spect of bitation, course, ufficient Por this tme and on our i^ith the that for sandy, which for the 'rupted t daily 129 As wc approached the side of the Tenessec, the country became extremely rich and fertile, and perhaps appeared with greater advantage to us, from the contrast to that wc had just left. We were con- ducted through this extensive wilderness by a mere paili; but the federal government of the United States is forming a broad road, wi?h secure bridges over the small rivers that interrupt it, which will enable i'ufure travellers to go in a carriage from Boston to New Orleans, a distance of two thousand miles. Nashville is the principal town in this part of Tenessee, and is built on a bare rock, on the river' Cumberland, the banks of which are formed of a I mass of brimstone, said to be sixty feet in height. The houses are scattered about in an irregular man- I ner, and, except a very few of brick, are made with planks. Here are several stores or shops for goods I of different kinds; but they are dear and indifferent- I ly supplied. Though it stands close to the side of a river, the inhabitants find it difficult to procure water, as there are no springs to be found near it. We hear a great deal of the new and thrivino* town, Cincinnati, situated on the Ohio: it is backed I by a quiet population and a most fruitful country, and bids fair to be one of the first cities in the west. We are told, and we cannot doubt the fact, that the I chief of what is to be seen is the work of four years. The hundreds of commodious, well-finished brick &5 houses^ UNIVE41SITY OF WINDSOR LIBRARY « J 160 the spacious and busy markets; the substantial public buildings; the thousands of prosperous, well. dressed, industrious inhabitants; the numerous waggons and drays, the gay carriages and elegant females, the shoals of craft on the rivers, the busy atir prevailing every where, houses building, pavinrr and levelling streets, the numbers of country people constantly coming and going, with the spacious taverns crowded with travellers from a distance, announce a thriving state. The School-house, when the whole plan is com. pleted, will be a fine and extensive structure. In the first apartment on the ground-floor, the Lan. casterian plan is already in successful operation There are one hundred and fifty scholars, amon. tvhom are children of the most respectable persons in the town. There are, in the same building, three other departments, (not Lancasterian,) two for instruction in history, geography, and the classics; and thcJ superior department for teaching languages. Males and females are taught in the same room, but sit on opposite sides. New towns are arising and forming in this man- ner all over the western territory, and are daily receiving new inhabitants; emigrants from the ITnited States and fi-om Great Britain. Amon-r many advantages which these rising states offer, b rt.e. absence of insanity, that greatest scourge of human nature. You 131 You will easily believe that the forests produce difflTcnt species of trees, according to the nature of the soil; consequently I have lately observed some that I have not mentioned in my former letters; particularly the cherry tree, white walnut, buck eye; white, black, and blue ash; ackberry, slippery elm, black jack oak, coffee tree, honey locust; and the papaw, which bears a fruit as large as a hen^s egg. The white and yellow tulip tree, (distinguished only by the colour of the timber,) and the cucumber tree, are often eighteen feet in circumference; and the planes attain a still greater size. Ginseng is a plant that is found in America, from Lower Canada to Georgia. It grows on the decli- vities of mountains, in cool, shady places, and in the richest soil. We were told by a person who deals in it, that it was first discovered in Canada by a French missionary. As it was known to be highly valuable to the Chinese, who procure it from the Tartars, it became an article of commerce with China, and for a short time was sold for its weight in gold, but soon fell in price, from its being badly prepared. The hunters collect the roots, which are the part used chiefly for medicine, and sell them when dry to the inland merchants, who supply those in the sea-ports for exportation. The Chinese have a method of making these roots in some degree transparent, which greatly enhances the value. Some ^'.' J I' 1 1* 1 m * * 1 ■ill m m i t ■■ f 1 ! &B.!Am^^ ,L.U, r ' .' 1% > li ■ I ■ » 132 Some Americans have learned this art, but thev Keep It a secret. '' Formerly there were elks and bisons in the coun- try of Kentucky, but since the settlement of the J^uropeans ihey are no longer to be found. Troops ol one or two hundred were seen feeding together and tbey were so tame as not to fear the hunter,,' 7° f'-'^quently killed them for the sake of the tongue only, which is esteemed a dainty. Fear and want of food have driven them to the banks of . Mississippi. The most common wild animals in this country now are deer, bears, wolves, foxes wild cats, racoons, opossums, and several kinds of squirrels. The racoon is very destructive in the mai.c Jiekls. It chmbs up the stems, breaks them down, and gnaws the ears. The farmers hunt it with •dogs m the night, for it generally lies concealed dunng the day. The planters have most enmity agamst the squirrels, which make great ha^oc amongst the wheat. Several times a day the ebil- dren are sent around the fields to scare them from the corn. At the least noise they run off by dozens, and take refuge in the trees, where they hide till they have a safe opportunity of returning to the spoil. These animals, hke the bears, change their situation with the season, and at the approach of ^vnuer appear in such multitudes in Kentucky. that the farmers are obliged to unite to hunt them. I have been invited to one of these great hunting. matches. 133 »'""l'ey I matcl,c5. Tl.e hunters divide wliich killfd t!] they not had a partner, \7, d into "•ty or forty squirrels; h pairs, many oC lit liad kille.1 one. because tl^;: ""'^ "'■""''' ''"'"'y ''"''^ a.s .^ways to keep the/ ". "^""^ '° ''-'---bv A dinner was provi, kd for u<. ;„ ,\. wood, and upwards nf ■ . " '"° roasted; and £ T, , '^ ^ ^""^ '''"«' -"« better roasted tl in ' T' """^ "'■'■' ""'' --" ^l_^_^ than .„ any other mode of cooking EnHgration (o the western states is .oin. • selves to the numberless inconveniences of .,. T err'""' """"■"■ r»p«"t:*: rccedino. t^ ' ^ Indians are daily ^^".iveyou. s;;::td::rttv'-'' to float down the river n. 1 \ travelling is I uic liver, as beinfir the easip«f «, . leconomica anH m..cf ■,- . easiest, most I 't-ai, and most expedit ous. The w^c. icountrv is a frn..f u- i western I "J IS a tract, which, ffeoffraphers f^ll internal navigation, one . hundred: 9 ■u\ \, I^^R'i'l llUir. um& \i 134 thousand of river coast, with an endless intersection of rivers communicating with each other. The principal towns are situated on the banks of the rivers, on any spot where a few settlers cluster to- o-ether, either attracted by ancient neighbourhood, or by the goodness of the soil, or by whatever cause. Some enterprising proprietor finds in his section what he deems a good scite for a town; he has it surveyed and laid out in lots, which he sells, or offers for sale by auction: the new town then as- sumes the name of its founder. A store-keeper builds a Uttle framed store, and sends for a few cases of goods; and then a tavern starts up, which becomes the residence of a doctor and a lawyer, and the boarding-house of the store-keeper, as well as the resort of the weary traveller. Soon follow a blacksmith and other handicrafts-men, in useful succession : a schoolmaster, who is also the minister of religion, becomes an important accession to this rising community. Land is sometimes partially cleared, by what is rather ludicrously called a frolic A man having purchased a quarter or half section, for the purpose of settling down, his neighbours assemble upon an appointed day: one cuts the trees, a second lops them, a third drags them to the spot upon which a log-mansion is to be erected; others cross the logs, roof the habitation, and in three days the emigrant "has a house over his head." Thus ends the American frolic. In this land of plenty, young people first marry, and jrsection . The s of the uster to- Durhood, er cause. s section he has it sells, or then as- re-keeper for a few ip, which a lawyer, r, as well 1 follow a in useful e minister on to this partially i Si frolic. If section, eighbours : cuts the lem to the J erected; m, and ill ; over his rst marry, and 135 ai)d then look out for the means of livelihood, without fear or care about it. The ceremony of marriage IS performed in a simple family way. The near relations assemble at the house of the bride's pa- rents; the minister or magistrate is in attendance and when the candidates make their appearance, h^ as s them severally the usual questions, and ha4.. called on the company to declare if there be an^ ohjections, he confirms the union by a short religious formula: the bridegroom salutes the bride, and the ceremony is over. Tea and refreshments follow. Next day the bridegroom holds his levee- his numerous friends, and sympathy makes them numer- ous on these happy occasions, pour in to offer their congratulations. Abundance of refreshments, of the most substantial kind, are placed on side-tables, which are taken not as a formal meal, but as they walk up and down the apartments in cheerful con. 7T{ ™r """-^ --^ -ntinues from noon 111 the close of the evening, the bride never making ner appearance on the occasion. ^ Sincerely hoping you may never have a less agreeable dmner, I put an end to this long epistle -iHch I hope will afford you and my sisfers some amusement. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. \ vAU' « I |i r.KTTER Ff frfitc J I mi I Mm. ,1 136 LETTER XIX. Mr, H. Franklin to Edwin Middleton. Knoxville, MY DEAR EDWIN, As I know your desire of enriching your mind with useful knowledge, I endeavour to collect such information as shall add to your stock, and at the same time afford you some amusement. The state of Tenessee, part of which we crossed in our way hither, had no white settlements in it before the year 1780, nor did the emigrants fix there in considerable numbers till nine years after- wards. The Cherokees harassed them on all oc- casions, and obliged them to carry on a fierce war, till, overcome by superior force, they were com- pelled to yield to a peace, and confine themselves to the southward of this province, which lies between their territories and the new state of Kentucky. Before this country was admitted into the Union, it formed a part of North Carolina. Its two prin- cipal rivers are the Cumberland and the Tenessee, which are separated by the Cumberland Mountains, and both fall into the Ohio. The Cumberland Ridge runs obliquely through the state, and divides it into two partSj distinguished by the names of East and n. noxville. ng your collect , and at ' crossed Its in it •ants fix ,rs after- 1 all oc- rce war, re com- ?mselves ich lies state of J Union, vo prin- 'enessee, untains, iberland i divides i of East and 137 and West Tenessee. The district on the western side of the mountains, is twice as large as that on the other, and is very fertile, as appears from the vast size of the trees. Most of the smaller rivers lose their waters in the Cumberland, and are nearly dry in summer, which, it is feared, will cause a ^arcity of water when the country shall become more populous. The people may, however, find a resource in the large brooks, or creeks, that are never dry, which issue in many places from deep caverns at the bottom of the low hills. As the water rushes from its subterraneous bed, it is some- times attended by a current of air, so strong that I have seen it extinguish a light. The mildness of the climate, fertility of the soil I and the certainty of acquiring a comfortable sub! sistence, draw multitudes of emigrants from the old states hither. Cotton is the staple commodity by which thev enrich themselves. Those who have no ne.roes cultivate it with the plough, taking care to keep it : well weeded and hoed; but if they can afford to mir- [ chase slaves, it is planted on parallel ridges, twelve or fifteen feet high, made with the hoe. Spinning I the cotton employs the women and children I one day stopped at a house to get a draught of imlk, where the mistress had just received a prize ol ten piastres from the legislature of the state for producing the best piece of manufactured cot'ton. The ii . T r ' F ! I t ■*lf3 188 The wealthy encourage this rivalship amongst the women, by wearing calicoes made in the country. Those emigrants who are not able to purchase lands, hire them for eight or ten bushels of maize, for every acre they clear; and, by their bargain, they are obliged to build a log-house on the farm. Many churches are not yet built in Tenessee: to supply the deficiency, it is common for the people to meet in the woods of a Sunday, to hear a dis- course from some itinerant preacher. East Tenessee lies between the highest part of the Allegany and the Cumberland Mountains, and is watered by a great number of small rivers, that descend from them, and cross it in all directions. It is a hilly country, and not very fertile, and produces, principally, pines and oaks of different species; one of these is called the over-cup white oak, the acorns of which are as large as an egg. Maize, or Indian corn, is much cultivated here, but it doe* not grow to such perfection as on the western side of the mountains, where it reaches to the height of eleven feet; and the ears are often nine or ten inches long, and thick in proportion, Numerous herds of cattle are reared by the farmers, who send them four or five hundred miles, to the towns on the sea-coast. Though these animals are very wild, from living in the woods, and have a number of rivers to cross, and uncultivated forests to traverse, yet very few of them are lost in the journey. Not 139 Not being satisfied with tlie general account I had received of East Tenessee, I determined to direct our course that way. We advanced through beautiful forests, and were frequently entertained by the owners of plantations, thickly scattered on the bor- ders of the roac\ though always sequestered in the midst of woods. The inhabitants live in good log- houses; most of them are assisted by negroes, and enjoy plenty with content. We observed a stone house belonging to General AVinchester, much superior in elegance to most of the dwellings in the country. In order to finish it completely, carpenters were had from Baltimore, at nearly seven hundred miles' distance. We halted at Fort Blount, which was erected to defend the first emigrants against the Indians, who opposed their settlement ; but being no longer necessary, the fortifications are destroyed. Roaring River, one of the branches of the Cumberland, receives its name from the confused noise occasioned by the falls of the water, over the sudden depressions of its bed, which is formed of large, flat stones, close to each other. These falls are six, eight, or ten feet in height, and follow one another so closely, that they may be compared to a vast flight of steps. Large round stones, five or six feet across, lie in the middle of the river; but it is not possible to say how they came there. The right bank rises in some places to a hundred feet, and is overtopped by projecting rocks, in some parts i* h» ' f i -' I -I h \ I > *'' I . i 1:1 140 li parts covered with a kind of white moss, resembling snow. The prospects are rendered slill more romantic, by a number of magnificient cascades, formed by large rivulets, which, after meandering through the forests, fill! over the shores of Roaring River, and are lost amidst its waters. The rocks are covered with moss, which forms a verdant carpet, beneath the rich flowering trees ar'l. shrubs that grow here in great variety. On the banks of this river are several caverns, that produce alum of so pure a quality, that the inhabit- ants use it in dyeing, and export it to Kentucky. Having supplied ourselves with provisions, we entered the mountainous territory of the Cherokees. At midnight we encamped near a small river, where there was plenty of grass, and after having made a fire, lay down in our blankets, watching our horses by turns, with Sancho, lest the Indians should steal them, which they are very apt to do, without the strictest precaution. In the morning we packed up our baggage, and met several flocks of wild turkeys, forty or fifty in a company. A party of Indians, who were seeking for summer grapes and chinquapins, a well-tasted small species of chesnut, crossed our road, and in exchange for some of their fruit, received a couple of loaves of bread, which to them is a great luxury; their common food being chiefly deer's flesh roasted. Small romamu. Small boards painted black are nailed against tl,c tree,, lo show travellers bow far they havelne- auer passing two of these, since our traffic with the I Iixhans, we saw a carriage full of wealthy emio-rants I folloved by their negroes on foot. At the confluence I °'"- "7' Clinch a„vl„ch is the seat of govertnnent of the state of I ^'"T: ^' !' ^"' " ^'^'^ '"""' •^""t n'^ost e„t.rely of wood, and has no ma„t,factures but that of tanmng leather: there is, however, sotne trade and the stores are better furnished than those at AashvilJe. The traders obtain goods from Philadelphia by land which is distant six hundred and forty miles I and they send flour, cotton, and Jime, by the rive^ i Tenessee, and by New Orleans, which is as f-ir. A merchant who is now setting off for Phlla I (lalphia, will take this letter, and f;,rward it to Er^, land by the first vessel that sails from that port. ^ I am your very affectionate friend, HENRY FRANKLIxN. mi ... ^ t > ! LETTER I m u% ' I LETTER XX. Arthur Mlddleton to his Brother Edwin. Morgantown. DEAR EDWIN, ' THE love of variety supports me under tlic fatigues and hardships we are often obHged to suffer in passing through uninhabited or savage districts; and I console myself when I have no other bed than the hard ground, that when I return to my native country, the meanest accommodations will satisfy me, nay, will appear luxurious, in comparison with those I have often been glad to procure amongst the wilds we have traversed. We have lately passed through the territory of | the Cherokee Indians: they are a warlike people, and vigorously resisted the intrusion of the first settlers. Their stature is above the middle size, and they are plumper than might be expected, from i the long fasts they often endure, whilst pursuing the wild animals in the woods, which is their chief sustenance; though for some years past they have! followed the example of the white settlers, in culti- vating their lands. Some of them have good planta- tions, and negroes to labour for them. It is impossi- ble to imagine any set of men more free and inde- pendent than these savage tribes, and their contempt! for 143 for a slave equals their love of liberty ; consequently, tbcy despise the poor negroes still more than the wlme people do, though they are willing to employ The men commonly wear a shirt, which thev leave oose; and a piece of blue cloth passed beneath thea- legs, and fastened behind and before to their gu-dle, which serves them for breeches. They ccver their legs and feet with gaiters, and .hoes or socks, made of prepared deer-skin. A tuft of hair is left on the top of their heads, formed into several tresses, which hang down the sides of their &ces; and very frequently the ends are decorated with feathers, or small pipes of silver. A great many of them make noles through the gristle of the nose, to put rin^s '..to; and when they are very young, cut their ears, and make them grow to a great length by .anging pieces of lead to them. They paint their faces red, blue, or black, which disfigures them very much. In many respects the women dress like the men • they wear a man's shirt, and short petticoat, with socks and gaiters of deer's skin. They let all their hair grow, which, like that of the men, is of a iet black, but they do not pierce the nose or cut the ears. In winter, both men and women defend them selves from the cold by a woollen blanket wrapped round their shoulders. A blanket is an essential part ot their baggage, and they always carry one witli them. I u\ 1 iff, ■ 4: W'^' T' $9' I *4. • .;' ■ m. ': m' t'i ?:^ ■'T Hl.,i'- t ' Sl! i •_■ m' 1- 1 1 '( 4 them. The federal government encourages them to be industrious, by furnishing them with implements for agriculture, and tools for handicraft trades. Some of the women have learned to spin, and to weave cotton cloth. At a store near Fort Blount, we saw a great number of these people, who had brought ginseng, and the skins of bears, deer, and otters, to excliange for coarse stuffs, knives, hatchets, and other articles. Their intercourse with the white people has altered their manners in a small degree, as we were told by a very aged chief, whom we saw in one of their towns. He said, that when he was a young man, they had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes, knives, razors, or guns; but that they then made use of their own stone axes, clay pots, flint knives, and bows and arrows: and that he was the first man who brought these articles from the whites, having walked with a load of them on his back several hundred miles. It was delightful to see the vene- ration and respect that was paid to this white- headed, blind old man, for he had lost his sight from great age. One morning his attendants had led him to the council fire, in the centre of the pubHc square, when he addressed the people in the following words: <( BROTHERS AND FRIENDS, " You yet love me; what can I now do to merit your regard .? Nothing. I am good for nothing 145 nothing. I cannot see to shoot the buck, or hunt up the sturdy bear. I know I am but a burden to you: I have lived long enough; now let my spirit go. I want to see the warriors of my youth, in the country of spirits. Here is the hatchet, (laying bare his breast,) take it and strike." The square resounded with one united voice, We wi 1 not: we cannot. We want you in our councils." The old chief seemed affected at the regard of his countrymen; and indeed I am not ashamed to say, I could not restrain my tears. For some miles beyond Knoxville, the land was poor and stony, producing a great number of chin- quapin oaks, not above a yard high, but so loaded witli acorns, that they were bent to the ground. The sorrel-tree is common in this country: it grows to a great height, and is adorned with elegant bunches of white flowers. We had comfortable quarters, one night, at the house of a farmer, whose log-house was divided into two apartments; a luxury not very common m this neighbourhood. Some very fine apple-trees were planted round the house, besides an orchard for peaches, which are preferred for the sake of the brandy they make from them. Here we saw two families who were going to settle in Tenessee. They looked poor, were very ragged, and were followed by their children, barefooted and in their shirts. Riches, in the western country, do not consist in money, as with us; but in the abundance of corn ^ and 'L'> » t iti III :sn and other necessary provision, which the industrious raise ibr themselves. We stop})ed at the iron-worlxs, about thirty mile,^ beyond Knoxville, The iron obtained from ihcm is said to be of an excellent kind. Small rock crystals, of the most beautiful transparency, arc found in abundance in this part of the country. I did not fail to collect some of the finest of them for my sisters, hoping to enrich their cabinet with many valuable curiosities when I return. We lodged at (jrrenville, a small town of about forty log-houses; and passing over a country rather hilly, reached Joncsborough to dinner, the next day. It is the last town in Tonessee: the houses are built with planks. Whilst dinner was preparing, I read the newspaper, which is published here once a week. Our journey from this place to Morgantown, in North Carolina, was across the Allegany Ilidge, of ■which I must give you some account. In Penn- sylvania and Virginia this chain of mountains appears like high ridges, nearly parallel to each other, enclosing narrow valleys; and if the space between them extends to a considerable distance, it is filled with a multitude of unconnected hills; but here, on the confines of North Carolina and Tenessec, they rise singly to a great height, being joined together only at the base. They differ in size, and are distinguished by peculiar names. The great Father Mountain is in the first rank ; then the Iron 147 Iro.. Mountain, the black Jroi.ntain, the Table Mountain, and the Yellow Mountain, ,vlucl, is the only one that is free Iron, trees at the sununit: wo clambered to the highest points of it, and saw from thence ail those I have named, and a vast extent of mountainous country. The northern .Ides of these n.oimtains are sometimes entirely clothed with the calico-tree, the flowers of which are most beautiful. New settlers are continually fixing thoir abode on the dtH,-hvities of these hills, attracted by the lioaltluness of the situation, the goodness of the water, and the quantities of wild peas, for feeding caltio, that overrun the ground in the large woods A spec.es of salamander, or water eft, two feet long, IS found in the torrents, called here the alii. gator of the mountains. The inhabitants of this rude district are verv expert in the chase. I„ autumn they pursue the bears wuh strong dogs, which, without approach. "ig these unwieldy creatures, tease and aggravate *em, till they force thorn to climb a tree, where tl'oy are shot by the hunters. The bear is a very profitable animal to these people. They prefer the flesh as the most wholesome and agreeable of any .nd of meat. The hind legs are made into hams, the fat IS used mstead of oil, and the skin brino-s some money into their purse. They fatten in winter upon roots, acorns, and chesnuts; and in the wuhern countries, plunder the orange groves of '** theii- m il ' A 148 their fruit. If driven by hunger, they fall upon the pigs; and sometimes, from necessity, attack men. Thick fogs prevail in the valleys, and render them very cold. The track that we pursued was often distinguished with difficulty; and as we travelled many miles without seeing a single house, we were obliged to rely upon our memory in observing large rocks, or remarkable trees, which had been named to us, as tokens that we had xiot lost our road. Sancho was compelled to carry a hatchet, to clear the way through forests of rhododendrons, eighteen or twenty feet high, the branches of which were so interwoven, that without this precaution we could not force a passage. In some parts, the descent was so steep we could scarcely sit upon our horses, but found it prudent to get off and lead them. Often we had torrents to cross, the bottoms of which were co- vered with loose ftints; and in other places, large flat stones lay across the road, and rendered our journey very fatiguing. Hov/ever, we surmounted all these difficulties; passed the Blue Ridges, and the Mountains of Linneville, which are not quite S so high, but the path is steeper and more difficult to ascend; and at length ai'rived at Morgantown, a small place, consisting of plank houses, inhabited by working people. There is only one store, that supplies all the country for five and twenty miles round, with English mercery and haberdashery; which, when they have a scarcity of money, they purchase piuchasc tallow, s I sent town, wl distant, lieve me Mr. MY Dl have tak( derable ] give som Some Vir 1770, an country, form sett] This e: Indian n£ so tenaci resisted t destroyin^ wliich ga^ of Blood, been put upon the :k men. idcr them vvas often travelled , we were v'mg large en named our road. ;, to clear , eighteen ill were so we could steep ve found it 'n we had were co- ,ces, large dered our irmounted dges, and not quite re difficult ;antown, a inhabited store, that enty mile? irdashery; )ney, they purcliuse 149 purchase with smoked hams, barrelled butter, tallow, skins, or ginseng. I send this letter by a person going to Charles- town, which is two hundred and eighty-five miles distant. With love to my mother and sisters, be- lieve me always yours, ARTHUR MIDDLETOxV. •r LETTER XXI. Mr. Henry Franldin to Edwin Middleton, Lexington. MY DEAR YOUNG FllIEND, IN our way from Morgantown liither, we have taken a circuitous direction through a consi- derable part of Kentucky, which qualifies me to give some account of this newly-settled province. Some Virginia hunters discovered it, about the year 1770, and gave such a favourable report of the country, that others were in a few years induced to form settlements there. This extensive territory was not inhabited by any Indian nation: they only came there to hunt; but so tenacious are they of their rights, that they resisted the establishment of the white people, by destroying all who were not defended by numbers; which gave it the name of Kentucky, or the Land of Blood. After many of the first emigrants had been put to death, according to the Indian custom, by ' ■ W' I ! f;:|. V :.il tM ■ 1; -?, * ■ m ( 1 1 ■ .1 » 150 by the most cruel tortures, they no longer emigrated by single families, but united in such multitudes that bore down all opposition: in some years twenty thousand persons have fixed themselves there, which has raised the price of land, and occasioned much imposition in the sale of it. The river Oliio bounds this state on the north and west for above seven hundred miles. Virginia lies on the east of it, and Tenessee to the south. It is neither mountainous nor level; and its principal minerals are limestones and coal. • Its most considerable rivers are the Kentucky and Green, which, after running about three hun- dred miles, fall into the Ohio. The size of these streams, and the rest in this country, differ much according to the season: in summer, many of them may be crossed on foot, which in winter swell to a considerable breadth; a circumstance that puts the inhabitants, in many places, to great difficulty in dry weather, from want of water. The Barrens, or meadows of Kentucky, extend nearly sixty miles on all sides, and are bounded by woods: from their name, I expected to pass a dry, sandy plain, void of herbage, but was agreeably surprised to see them covered with grass, inter- mixed with flowering plants. Compared with the forests and cultivated country, it was an uninterest- ing scene; as, except a great number of partridges, scarcely any thing alive is to be heard or seen. We oljservcd many subterraneous caverns, very near tlie surface 151 5i IL. K 5" surface of these barrens; and were often glad to quench our thh'st at a small trickling stream of water, in the sides of broken holes of the shape of a funnel, rather conmion here, and which are never dry. The owners of the few plantations on these barrens, lead a most solitary life. A woman, wliere I stopped for refreshment, told me, that for eighteen months she had not seen any person but her own family, which consisted of a husband and two children. The luxuriant herbage of these meadows is burnt every year, that the cattle may be able to get at the new grass beneath it. They presented so little variety, that botli of us were glad to get into a more inhabited country. Most of the people have emigrated from the remote parts of Virginia; and the generality, especially amongst the lower orders, retain the faults for which they are distinguished. Gaming, a love of spirituous liquors, and ferocious quarrels in con- sequence of intoxication, are but too common amongst them. They are very inquisitive, and tease a stranger with a multitude of questions. Whence did you come? — where are you going? — what is your name? — where do you live.'^ — and why do you travel? — are to be answered wherever you stop, till the repetition becomes truly tire- some ~ As schools are established wherever the popu- lation is sufficiently numerous to support them, there are grounds to hope that the morals of the risins: m ," f ; 'hi I r a «. ,»; i I ■M 9. m. I t j 1 it i S ;| ■ .■•:.;*■ ; 'I ! 152 rising generation will be superior to those of their ancestors, whose care to provide immediate sup. port absorbed their principal attention. Tobacco, hemp, and grain, are cultivated with success; but the cold often sets in too early to suffer the cottofl plant to ripen. Peaches are the fruit most cultivated; though, probably, other kinds would thrive. Pigs are turned into the peach-orchards a httle while before the fruit is ripe, that they may feast upon the wind-falls. Immense quantities of peaches are distilled into brandy: a great deal of this intoxi. eating liquor is drunk, and the rest is exported. Horses and cattle are principal articles of com- merce in Kentucky; and salt is absolutely neces- «ary to fatten them : in all the western states, it is mixed with their food, and is an allurement to them to return from the woods to the plantations. Wild turkeys are numerous, and, in the uninha- bited parts, so tame as to be easily shot. In autumn and winter they feed chiefly upon acorns and ches- nuts. They inhabit the sides of rivers, and perch upon the tops of the highest trees. One of the peculiar beauties of this country is the perpetual fohage of the trees, which continues unim- paired, even in the depth of winter, though a con- siderable degree of cold is felt. We did not pass many towns. Harood's Burgh may serve for a specimen of the rest: it is merely a small group of plank houses. Near it lives General Adair, whose large, convenient house, retinue of black 153 black servants, and equipage, mark him for a man of consequence; but these distinctions are not very usual in America, less respect being paid to rank than in any country I was ever in before. I write this froi ^ Lexington, which is situated in the middle of a spot of cleared land, surrounded with woods, like all the other inferior towns of the United States, which are not near the sea. It is built on<,a regular plan, with broad streets intersecting each other. Most of the houses are brick. Though Franckfort is the seat of government of Kentucky, Lexington is the most considerable town in the pro- vince. There are butfew manufactures, agriculture being the favourite pursuit. We visited, however, two printing offices, each of which issues a news- paper; a rope work; a tannery; a nail manufactory; and, in the neighbourhood, a pottery and a gun- powder mill. Lest I should fatigue your attention with too many objects, I will conclude, after desiring to be remembered, in the most affectionate manner, to my brother and your family. H. FRANKLIN. h5 LETTER *■#!" «f a 5 .1. !»f ill 1 m Wimk m 154 LETTER XXII. ArtJnir Middlcton to his Brother Edwin, PUtshiirgJt. MY DEAR BROTHER, WHEN I have nothing to communicate but the departure from one town, and arrival at another, without any thing new or interesting to say, I defer the task of writing as long as I can, lest, instead of receiving my letters with pleasure, you should break open the seal with reluctance, except for the sake of hearing that I am well. A voyage on the Ohio will, I hope, afford you entertainment in the relation, as it did me in reality. After leaving Lexington, we passed through the small town of Paris, agreeably situated in a plain of considerable extent, and watered by a stream that turns several corn-mills. Millesburgh is ano- ther town, of no great size, that lay in our road; beyond it the country bore a dry, sandy appearance, and the trees stunted in their growth, which Mr. Franklin attributed to the salt-mines with which it abounds. AVe sto})ped to observe the process of some salt-works, established near some pits of salt water at Mays-Lick. There are a great many salt- springs, both in this neighbourhood and on the banks of the Ohio, which the peorjle call licks. becausr 155 because the elks, bisons, and stags, which ran wild in the forests before the country was inhabited, used to come to these places to lick the salt particles from the earth. The most remarkable of these licks, that are known amongst the white settlers, are Bullet's Lick, the Big Bones, the Blue Licks, and some on the north foot of the river Holston. When the earth is opened to the depth of three feet, the water begins to boil up ; and the deeper it is dug, and the drier the weather, the stronger is the brine. Near some of these licks, on the banks of the Ohio, are found the bones of a prodigious animal, much larger than an elephant, called the mammoth, or big buffalo. The Indians assert, that there are still some of these creatures existing very far north- ward; but no animal is known to the European settlers, that can compare in bulk with the tusks, grinders, and skeletons, that are either scattered on the surface of the ground, or a little beneath it, at some of these places. This circumstance has caused many enquiries, but no very satisfactory information has been obtained. A Delaware chief, who headed an embassy of warriors, replied to the questions of the Governor of Virginia, on this subject, in the following man- ner. After first placing himself in a proper attitude to n>ake ar oration, he told them' that it was a traditioji from their ancestors, that in ancient viiTies, a Ivcrd ot these trcnicncious riniinaiS cauie to the (.• r f ■f ?""," ; ■ ' , '1; ;' :. ... ¥1 'I 156 the Big-bone Licks, and began a universal destruc- tion of the bears, deer, elks, bufFuloes, and other animals, which had been created for the use of the Indians: that the Great Man above, looking down, saw this, and was so enraged, that he seized his lightning, seated himself on a neighbouring moun. tain, on a rock, (of which his seat and the print of his feet are still to be seen,) and hurled his bolts among them, till the whole were slaughtered, ex. cept the big bull, which presenting his forehead to the shafts, shook them off as they fell: but not being aware of one of them, it wounded him in the side; upon which he gave a spring, bounded over the Ohio, the Wabash, the Illinois, and finally, over the great lakes, where he is living at this day. This strange mixture of truth and fable does not clear up the point, nor prove whether any of this huge race remain, where they inhabit, or what kind of creatures they are. The bones are incontestable evidence that there once was such a race, and that is all we know about it. Having seen the salt-works, we jogged on to Washington, which we reached at an early hour in the evening; not that great city that was described in some of our former letters, but a small town, with a brisk trade, composed of about two hundred plank-houses. The custom of giving several places the same name, makes American geography very confused, and difficult to be remembered. The course of the rivers is the best guide to define which of 157 of the places is ,„ca„t. Thus, il.e f -deral city \Vas ,„gto„ stands on the Patowu.ack. and ,h^ near llie Ohio. At the tavern where we lodged, we heard of two ,.orsons m the town who were going to Pittsburgh to purchase goods. They were to embark the next UK,rn,ng at Limestone, in „ eanoe on the Ohio. Mr. Franklm cn.hraced the opportunity of joining their party We readily disposed of our horses to some travellers, who were just arrived at Lime- stone, and were going to the eastward of the Alle games. All matters being amicably settled, we set out under a most serene sky and an intense sun, and m a few miles fell i„ with a first settler; that B, one m search of uncultivated land, where he may choose a spot of ground for himself, on the borders of the savage tribe,. This man was going to v,s.t the banks of the Missouri, attracted, as be told us, by the multitude of bisons, beavers, and elks, and the fertility of the soil. When he had .letermmed the place of his choice, he was to return for bis family. Thus he would make a voyage of fourteen or fifteen hundred miles, three times, before he had completed his undertaking. He was alone, m a canoe of eighteen or twenty feet lonp and t,,^lve or fifteen inches wide: his dress, like that of all the American hunters, consisted of a short waistcoat with sleeves, a pair of pantaloons, and a broad woollen girdle, of a red and yellow colour A ,. — !,:.-_ 11 s . ^ XX uaiuaiu; a small hatchet, called by the Indians A ,1 M ' '>i' ,11 15« Indians a tomahawk, and used by tlicm both to cut wood and to dispatch their enemies; two beavci traps; and a large knife hanging to his girdle, com- posed his hunting eciuipage. One blai'.ct was all his baggage. Every evening he encamped on the banks of the river, or passed the night by a fire; and when he judged that there was a favourable oppor- tunity for the chase, he penetrated into the woods for several days, and, from the produce of his hunt- ing, provided himself with food, and procured fresh supplies by selling the skins of the animals he had killed. This wandering, unsettled Ufe, gives these people a distaste to a fixed home: they are no sooner settled, but they dispose of their land to other settlers who are more civilized, and then set out again to explore uninhabited regions. The shores of the Ohio are thickly scattered with plantations: the owners live in wretched lo.o'-houses, often built in most delightful situ- ations; but the cultivation of the land is some- times neglected, for the pleasure of hunting the stag and the bear, the skins of which bring them ready money, or they exchange them for articles they cannot otherwise procuK. These people have not much to give, but they were always willing to let us enjoy the shelter of their houses, to spread our blankets for the night; a mode of lodging to which I am quite reconciled. Maize bread, smoked ham, butter, and milk, were gcne- rallv --'i'V 159 rally our fare; but their Jarder seldom afforded any otlier provision, except, accidentnlly, a piece of vension. The second day, for the sake of amusement, I |)ut out a fishing-U(>l, and caught a cat-fish: it weighed a hunch-ed pounds. This fish is the terror of a smaller race of the finny tribe, which he destroys with a sharp spine, that grows on the first ray of the back fin. AVhen he catches his prey, he sinks below the fish he means to attack, then rising suddenly, wounds it several times in the belly. In this river, and some others in the western country, there are a great many muscles, of a par- ticular species, of a rather large size: they are not good to eat, but the shell is lined with a thick coat of mother-of-pearl, wliich is made into buttons, Man is very ingenious, for he contrives to make the parts of almost ail other creatures useful to iiim. We passed many fine situations. Point Pleasant is one of these, a little above the mouth of the Great Kcnhaway, a river that fal ^ into the Ohio. This little promontory stretcher out into the middle of the Ohio, which is here very broad: its shelving banks are planted at the botton- with >veeping willows. The pend.ait branches and pale green of these, form a ; leasing contrast with the maples and ash-tree, immediately above them; whilst these la ' are covered, as with a canopy^ by the pi le, the tulip-tree, the beech, and the magnolia. I :« 1 •t :i ; 1 , 1 ' !llff i f i i t : 1 j i '^■j.L^'' 160 ■ ' magnolia, tliat rise above them in a majestic manner. We pasf^ed several towns: the principal of them are Alexandria, Gallipoli, Marietta, Wheeling, and West Liberty town. Marietta is the chief place in the state of the Ohio. There may be two hundred houses: some of them of brick; and many of them have two stories, and are hand- somely !)uilt. Most of them face the river: high bills shelter it behind. It is situated at the union of the great Muskingum with the Ohio; near it are the remains of ancient fortifications belonging to the Indians. About fifteen miles from the Muskingum, in a small island, is a plane-tree, said to measure above forty feet in circumference. This, to you, may appear like a traveller's wonder; but we, who have seen several nearV that size, can easily believe it. For some time before we reached Pittsburgh, the Ohio runs between two ridges of hills, fre- quently unbroken for miles; at other times a river passes through the break, or another hill in a dif- ferent direction. For a great length of way the course of this river lies through a mountainous country, covered with forests, and almost unin- habited. This noble river takes in a vast circuit, winding with a prodigious sweep, for nearly a thousand miles, before it reaches the Mississippi: its breadth varies in different parts. The islands in it are very numerous, 161 uurneious, and the stream so rapid, that the west- country boats are made almost square, to stem the current; and having raised sides, and roofs at one end, look hke floating houses. After so Jong a voyage, you must excuse an account of Pittsburgh till my next; and in the mean lime beheve, that no variety of place or people can ever make me forgetful of the pleasant hours I liave passed in your society at home. ARTHUil MIDDLETON. I;'. •^•v»»^v%v%v% I LETTER XXIH. Mr. Hoirtj FranUin to his Brother. , „ , Lancastec. DEAR BROTHER, PITTSBURGH is built on a triangular plaui, just at the confluence of the rivers Monon- galieKa and Allegany, which, when united, form the Ohio. Agues are but little known here, though so frequent in many other parts. Pittsburgh is in several points of view an inte- resting town: it is two thousand five hundred miles from the ocean, and yet has direct communication with it by means of rivers: it has an exhaustless possession of that first-rate material for manufac. turcs, coal, and it is at present important as being the f'; '1. I: 162 tbc connecting link between New and Old America. There is one fact strongly in favour of the stability of iliis town— there has not been a bankruptcy in it for three years ! I It is llie great market for the exchange of goods, between Philadelphia and Baltimore, with the western country and the numerous settlements on the Monongahela and Allogany rivers. The greater part of the traders who resiilc in this town, are partners or agents to the commercial houses at Philadelphia. The merchandise is conveyed from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, in large covered wag- gons, drawn by four horses, two and two abreast; from thence it is frequently sent in carrying boats, along the Oliio and Mississippi, to New Orleans, a distance of more than two thousand miles. Some. times the cargoes returned by the merchants of New Orleans, go by sea to Pl'Uadelrhia. Tliusp communication, to their mulual benefit, is main- tained between the distant parts of this vast and increasing empire. Thirty years ago, there were scarcely thirty thousand white inhabitants in tbc three new western states, Tenessee, Kentucky, and that of the Ohio; now they are esti\nated at four hundred thousand. Do not suppose that this wonderful augmentation arises Irom the natural increase of the first settlers, but a continued influx of new emigrants, who flock from all parts to tbi^ fertile region. The river Monongahela rises in Virginia, at the fool foot of Li chain of rivers bef river take to be navi^ The dock iiient to n at Redsto cordage. The tin Pittsburgh design to I land, to N mountainoi further tha about a hi of a hill. with coal, 1 wood, as b for the fire producing and flax fo at work at families are We observe particularly flowers, tha fifteen feet, we crossed 163 foot of Laurel Mountain, which forms part of the chain of the Allegany, and receives some inferior rivers before it joins the Allegany: this latter river takes its source near lake Erie, and begins to he navigable two hundred miles from Pittsburcrh The dock.yards for building ships give employ^ iiient to many hands in the toNfn, as well as some at Redstone and Lexington, which supply the cordage. The time that I had appointed for our stay at Pittsburgh being elapsed, we set forward, wiih design to bend our course, by way of Northumber- land, to New York. The excessive heat over a mountainous road, prevented us fron. proceeding further than Greensburgh the first day, a town of about a hundred houses, standing on the summit of a hill. The country near it abounds so much with coal, that it is used for fuel in preference to wood, as being less expensive than cutting wood for the fire. Ligoniefs Valley is a fertik tract, producing wheat, rye, and oats, for ihod; hemp and flax for clothing. IMost of the women were at work at the spinning wheel or the loom: their families are supplied with linen by their industry. We observed some wild plants of great beauty; particularly a species of azalea, with large white flowers, that grows to the height of twelve or fifteen feet. At the end of LigonieFs Valley ^ve crossed Laurel Hill, probably so called froni the ! i ll ii II 1(54 the numerous laurels and rhododendrons that cover it. Some fried ham and deer's flesh, with a cake of maize bread, baked on a board before the fire, ut Stanley Town, gave us fresh strength and spirits to ascend the Allegany Ridge, which is extremely steep, and rendered still more inconvenient by enormous stones, that are scattered about the road. We slept at Bedfcrd. Unfortunately for us, it had been a public holiday, and the tavern was filled with people in such a State of intoxication as to lie dead drunk about the rooms, on the stairs, and in the yard. From ih.ise who were able to speak, nothing was heard but a frigl.tful uproar of riot or abuse. Arthur remarked, that a young man did not need a more striking pi'jture of the hateful consc quences of excess. The people in the interior of the United States are too generally prone to the love of spirituous liquors, as a regale; for their common beverage, in summer, is water or sour milk. And this reminds me that I have not yet de- scribed, very particularly, the hotels of this country. A person desiring to put up at one of them, applies to the bar-keeper, and he must not feel disappointed should he be refused admittance from want of room. The place for washing is in the open yard, in which there is a large cistern, several towels, and a negro in attendance. The sleeping-room com- monly contains from four to eight bedsteads, having MIS that X cake of e fire, y spirits to xtremelj nient by the road. .IS, it had vas filled I as to lie 's, and in x> speak, rf riot or n did not ul conse. 165 having mattresses, but frequently no feather-beds, sheets of cahco, two blankets, and a quilt, l' bedsteads have no curtains, and the rooms arc generally unprovided with any conveniencies. The pubhc rooms are a news-room, a boot-room, (i„ Jhich the bar .s s.tuated,) and a dining-room. The fires are generally surrounded by a party of about 5.x, who gam and keep possession. The usual custom ,s to pace up and down the news-room, in a manner suntlar to walking the deck at sea. Smok. ...g segars .s practised by all, without an exception and at every hour of the day. Argument or dis! cussion m th.s part of the world is of very rare occurrence: social intercourse seems still more un- usual. At half past seven the first bell rino-s, for the purpose of collecting all the boarders, and at e.ght the second bell rings: breakfest is then set; tl.e dtntng room is unlocked; a general rush com. niences and some activity, as well as dexterity, is essentutlly necessary to obtain a seat at the table. A boy as clerk attends to take down the names, in order that when bills are settled no improper de- ducfon should be made. The breakfast consists of a profuse supply offish, flesh, and fowl, which is consumed with a rapidity truly extraordinary: often befoi^e I had finished my first cup of tea, the room] >'l"ch when I had commenced was crowded to sulfocation, had become nearly empty. At half past one tl.e first bell rings, announcing the approach of dinner.-The avenues to the dinin<.t room I 166 room become thronged. At wo o'clock the second bell rings; the doors are thrown open, and a repetition of the breakfast seme succeeds. At six, tea, or what is here called supper, is announced, and partaken of in the same: manner. This is the last meal, and usually aftc ds the same fare as breakfast. A billiard-table adjoins the hotel, and is generally well occupied: at ten o'clock nearly all have gone to bed, or what they call " turned in." At table there is neither conversation nor yet drink, ing: the latter is effected by Individuals taking their solitary " eye openers" (toddy) and " phlegm dis- persers" at the bar, the keeper of which is in full employ from sun-rise to bed-time. The life of boarders at an American tavern, presents the most senseless l"ch have two stories, are cImHy of brick or stone' Wh a broad stone pavement, and pumps placed al ™a!l distances before them; there are several well. ""It churches, and an elegant sessions-house. It 19 FvSJ \ I.-' ii ivll'P 168 is computed to contain from four or five thousand inhabitants, nearly all of German extraction, but of different religions and occupations. Hatters, saddlers, coopers, and gunsmiths, are the most numerous. The gunsmiths are celebrated for rifles, the only kind of fire-arms used by the Indians and the people of the interior. In the town, as well as the neighbour. hood, are a great many tan-yards, and mills for grinding corn: the flour is sent to Philadelphia in waggons. Lancaster is surrounded by a very rich country: some of the meadows are irrigated by wheels employed to raise the water. Near it lime. stones and slates are found, of a large size, and the neighbouring country is full of iron-mines. Having an engagement upon my hands, I can. not enlarge further, than to assure you that I a Your affectionate brother, H. FRANKLIN. » si't" ivW •^' i6d LETTER XXIV, ArtJiur Middleton to his Sister Catherine. Nero York, Mr »EAR GIRL, IT is SO long since I liave addressed myself to you, that Edwin cannot be jealous of this attention. Whilst we were at Lancaster, we took a ride to Ephrata, to see the estabhshment of the Dunkers, a religious society well known in America by their solitary mode of life. The men and women live apart, in houses that are without ornament. They wear a long gown, made in winter of grey cloth, and in summer of white hnen, tied round the waist with a strap of leather: a long beard renders this dress still more venerable. They live in a plain, frugal manner, and sleep on a bench with- out a bed. The property of the whole community is shared equally by the members who belong to it. What the principles are that lead to these i.ingu]arities, I could not learn. From Lancaster to May Town is a wowly tract of country. Along the road we saw many German farms, which are known by small houses and large barns. Cows and oxen,, with a iQyf sheep, >vere grazing in the woods, or I near if \mpl 170 near the road; and the woods chiefly consist of oak, hiccory, black oak, acacia, chesnut, cherry and apple trees, a few spindle trees, some cedars and Weymouth pines. May Town is only a small village. Harrisburgli is another town of no great magnitude. Several ranges of hills, or high ridges, run parallel to each other, in the way from this place to Sunbury, and are in most parts covered with trees. Azalias blot:som in almost every wood, and delight both the eyo and the smell. We passed many straggling lofj'-houses and new settlements, where the owners had felled some of the trees, and barked others for several inches in breadth, in order to make them decay. The mountains over which the road runs from Ilarrisburgh to Sunbury, are all of granite; and in some places it is very fine and beautiful. At length we perceived the little town of Sunbury, standing on the bank of the Susquehannah, which, wherever we meet it, is a grand object. The opposite shore is bounded by high mountains, darkened by nu- merous pines growing on the rocks. Sunbury is the chief town of the country ; but Northumberland is larger and more agreeably situated, though it is ill built, and inhabited chiefly by Dutchmen. Hither the celebrated Dr. Priestley retired, and ended his days in tranquilUty. In one of our walks on the borders of the river, we were surprised at hearing the melodious sounds of 171 or a piano forte exquisitely touched, proceed from a small .ooden house, built against the side of! %h mountain, covered with wood and fragments of rocks. The romantic situation, the unexCted melody, and the apparent poverty of the inhabftants were such an extraordinary contrast, that we were led to enquire „ho resided in the hut. It appeS Aat they were an Enghsh family, of "^S nmnners, whom misfortune had driven to seek an asylum m America. Turnino. .„. .-dstheea.,weeamel"B::Lh:;:S" 's the ch.ef settlememt of the Moravians TWs feasant vdlage stands finely elevated on the no ne of the beautiful river Lehigh, a few n.iles ab" e s confluence wuh the Delaware: a few of the houses are very large, and decency and indus rv every where obvious. "Wustry Towards the centre is a spring, that supplies every house w«h excellent water: over it is erected a pubhc I pantry, (I think I may call it,) with very thick wa I to keep ou the heat of the sun, furnished with nu |«erous shelves. In this place, during hot weather, h^mhabnants utter, &c. stand n, the neatest order, belonging to ■fferent fam.hes; where, so honest are the ^o;iL 1 at though the door is unfastened, they alwaVs find ijatever they have deposited there, Just Ttty HI acknowledge when 1 have related the wicu! i2 Jars '3i . ,;(-, I I J 172 lars of their cstabUsbmcnt. From the elders wc received the greatest hospitality, during our visit tc the town; they seemed to tal!' ■i^. ,0. [MAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) y < ^^ / f/j ^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 Hi M IIIII2.5 1*0 is |2£ 1.8 illitt 111^ V <^ /# PhntnoranViir Sciences Corporation 4n^ i\ iV N> *» ^ ^ '^9> o"^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 -%- .^^ 4?- i/.A ^ \\ 174 remarkable for their ingenuity in different arts. The neatness of their houses is charming; as is, indeed, that of the pubhc buildings. The church is a plain edifice of stone, adorned with pictures from sacred history. They have most of the necessaries of life within themselves. On the river that skirts the town is a flour-mill, a saw-mill, an oil-mill, a fulling-mill, a mill for grinding bark and dyeing drugs, a tan-yard, a currier's yard, and on the Lehigh river is a large brewery. The tavern affords excellent accommodations ; and, for neatness and good management, excels most we have seen in America. The United Brethren, as they call themselves, trace their first rise as far back as 1424, and relate that they underwent such grievous sufferings in Europe, as almost destroyed their society; till Count Zinzindorf gave a new turn to their affairs by his patronage ; and under his protection many of them emigrated from Germany, and settled in this place. It should be added, to their honour, that their missionaries are indefatigable in convert- ing the Indians to Christianity. There are several other establishments in different parts of America: one at Salem, in North Carolina; another at Lititz, near Lancaster; one at Mount Hope, in Jersey; and another at Nazareth ; whither we went in our road to Easton, whicli is a large town, situated where the rivers Lehigh and Delaware join. A con- siderable trade is carried on tliere, in corn, with Philadelphia ; 175 Pliilatlelphia; and there are many mills in the neighbourhood, which often grind corn tor tlie people in New Jersey, who, in some parts, are not supplied with creeks for turning mills. At Easton we crossed the Delaware, over a wooden bridge, and entered the state of New Jersey. Along the northern part of it lies the B'ue RiJge of Mountains. A road full of hills and rocks brought us to the straggling village of Hacketstown : near it is a mineral spring, much frequented in summer, with no better accommodations than an old cask, covered with a bunch of willows, to shelter the well where the company bathe. When I compared this with the bath-house at Buxton, and other ITiGdicirial springs in England, Mr. Franklin reminded me that there was an essential difference between a country recently colonized, contending with savage nations in uncultivated deserts; and one civilized, and arrived at the utmost refinement of wealth and luxury. The towns are thickly set from Morristown to New York: neat painted houses compose this pretty village, which stands on a branch of the Rariton, and is the chief town of Morris County. The court of justice, the Presbyterian church, ano- ther for the Anabaptists, a handsome academy, and a great square planned out in the centre, give this town an air of consequence. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in rearing cattle for the markets Fl We i' : \ ^^1 !} .^ ■^.i ^^1 wr^i i 1 ^1 176 We passed a flat, marshy country, to the Falls of the Pasaik, over a road made of logs laid close together, and kept dry by a ditch on each side. The river flows with a gentle current, till it reaches the brink of the descent, where it is about thirty feet wide, and then tumbles in one vast sheet over a ledge of rocks eighty feet high, into a deep chasm beneath, formed by immense crags, that rise above the top of the cataract, and appear to have been torn asunder by some violent convulsion of nature. Every thing belonging to this majestic cascade bears an air of sublimity, and impresses the mind with an inexpressible awe. Near these Falls is a rich copper-mine, originally discovered by a person who was passing by very early in the morning, and observed a blue flame issuing from the ground: struck with the singu- larity of the phenomenon, he marked the spot, and on examination the earth was found to contain a valuable vein of copper. Peaches are as common as apples in England, but many of them are not very high flavoured. The Americans have a method of drying both peaches and apples, in slices, for puddings and pies; but they are acid and tasteless if improperly cooked. Several species of the red fruit grow here in plenty, though unknown in Europe; and the trees are full of little birds, in size, shape, and colour resembling a blackb'^d, but their heads are of the most 177 most brilliant plumage, and they are remarkably tame. On our approach to the North River, a noble view of the city of New York, on the opposite sliore, with the harbour and shipping, burst upon our sight. The pleasing variety of the high banks of the river, richly wooded with trees almost dipping into the water, and numbers of vessels moving in all directions, complete the beauty of the animated picture. We have now fixed our abode in that city, in ready-furnished lodgings, for a few weeks, and have dispatched the faithful Sancho to fetch his wife from Charlestown, in a vessel that was bound to that port ; hoping to be able to settle hm\ in the island of Nantucket, as a cooper, an employment he has been used to when a slave. I know your feel- ing heart will partake my pleasure in seeing him a free man, and enjoying an independent right to whatever he may acquire by his industry. Adieu, my Catherine. Tell Louisa I shall have a box full of curiosities for her, when I return. Your's, &c. ARTHUR MIDDLETON, if I » XuHuiTa.ii. i !' r 1 A-r ^'.- i?.i 178 LETTER XXV. Mr. Henry Franklin to Edwin Middleton. Boston. MY DEAR liDWIN, THE pleasure you express on reading tlie events of our journey, encourages me to proceed in my correspondence, and to neglect no opportunity of writing, when I have a collection of matter to supply you with amusement. The reception we have met with at New York has rendered our abode there very agreeable. We find the inhabitants polite, gay, and hospitable, but not so dissipated as those of Charlestown. Enter- tainments are frequent amongst them; and, as strangers, we were always invited. The furniture and apartments of the genteelest houses, as well as ihe style of the table, are in the English fashion. The city is large, and finely situated on a small island of the same name, encircled by the North and East Rivers, and a creek that connects them together. Part of the town was burnt during the American war, which gave an opportunity of rebuilding it in a superior manner to the old streets, which are narrow, inconvenient, and dirty. The not now i 179 The population is said to be one hundred and twenty thousand. Ships of any burden and to any extent can come close up to the town, and lie there in perfect safety, in a natural harbour. New York is, without competition, the first commercial city in America: the port is open at all seasons, which gives it a powerful advantage. The town-hall of this city is a noble building of white marble. The interior appears well arranged. In the rooms of the mayor and corporation are portraits of several governors of this state, and ' some distinguished officers. The state-rooms and courts of justice are on the first floor; the staircase is circular, lighted by a cupola. The situation of this building is excellent in point of effect, and highly ornamental to the city. Near this hall is an extensive building, appropri- ated to the New York Institution, the Academy of Fine Arts, and the American Museum. There are also a state-prison, an hospital, and numerous splendid churches. The battery is a most delight- ful walk on the edge of the bay. Building is going on quickly in the city, though houses of wood are not now allowed; but in the environs they are general. The churches and meetings are twenty ; for here, as in other parts of America, every man follows that mode of worship which he thinks most acceptable to his Creator, without diminishing his civil rights, there being no national establishment endowed k ♦ t: 'Hi ;,f: 166 endowed with peculiar privileges, as in the ancienf nations of Europe. Several hotels are on an extensive scale. The city hotel is as large as the London Tavern: the dining and some of the other rooms are fitted up regard- less of expence. The shops (or stores as they arc called) have nothing in their exterior to recommentl them: there is not even an attempt at tasteful display. The linen and woollen drapers leave quantities of their goods loose on boxes in the street, without any precaution against theft. Most of the streets are dirty; in many of them sawyers are preparing wood for sale, and all are infested with pigs. Upon the whole, a walk through New York will disappoint an Englishman. There is on the surface of society a carelessness, a laziness, an un- social indifference, which freezes the blood and disgusts the judgment. The cold indifference of the shopkeepers may, by themselves, be mistaken for independence; but no person of thought and observation will think that they take the proper method of showing such a feeling. They stand A'ith their hats on, or sit or lie along on their counters; smoking segars, and spitting in every direction, to a degree offensive to any man of decent manners. ■ I saw many of the labouring class on the quay: they were not better clothed than men of a similar condition in England; but they were less care- worn i8i worn 111 tholr rmmtcnanccs, and tlicrc were no beggars. Intermixed with these were several of the mercantile and richer classes. Large straw liats prevailed. Their whole appearance was loose, slovenly, careless, and not remarkable for cleanli- ness. The general mode of living, for those wlio do not keep house, is at hotels, taverns, or private boarding-houses. In the former, forty sit down at table. American breakfasts are celebrated for their profusion; presenting eggs, meat of various kinds, fish, and fowls. It is estimated that there are fifteen hundred spirit-shops in this city, and yet the beastly drunkard is a character unknown heie; though too many are, throughout the day, undoy the influence of liquor, or what is not inapprq- propriately termed « half-and-half;'' a state too pre- valent among the labouring clases and negroes. The blacks are here kept in such a state of degra- dation, that J if a barber who shaves white men, were to do that office for a negro, he would los^ all his custom. A great deal of trade is carried on by the merchants of this city. It has a most flourishing port, and communicates by the river and canals with distant parts of the country; par^ (icularly with Massachusets, and that part of Ver,. mont which lies in the same tract. Till within a few years, it was the seat of the legislature of th^ state, which is now removed to Albany. The colony of New York was originally founded by by the Dutch. Henry Hudson^ in a vessel belong- ing WP' '*'■■*' ■' 1 H L 1 1 m taH 1 I -, • 1. 1" I 1 1 1 1 ' 182 ing to that nation, first discovered Long Island, and gave his name to the Great North River. The English asserted a previous possession, and tliere was a long contest between them and the Dutch; but in the reign of Charles the Second, the former drove out their antagonists, and changed the name of the province from New Holland to that of New York, in compliment to the king's brother, then Duke of York, and afterwards James the Second. At the solicitation of two or three of our friends, we formed an excursion to Long Island, which is a narrow strip of land, extending to the east, length- wise, one hundred and forty miles; though it docs not exceed ten in breadth, at a medium. The country on the western side, bordering on the channel that separates the island from the conti- nent, is romantically varied with charming pro- spects of the distant hills on Staten Island, and the New Jersey shore rising beyond the water, which is enlivened with vessels of different sizes and forms. The inhabitants of this island are mostly descended from the Dutch, and are many of them farmers. We tried the hospitality of several, when hunger and fatigue made us wish for rest and refreshment ; but we did not find the art of softening them to com- placency : they received us coldly, and seemed glad when we proposed to depart. Towards the northern side of the island we saw orchards of delicious fruit: the flavour of the Newtown pippins excelled any I ever 183 I ever tasted. As wc rode through the woods, we observed immense numbers of grouse and deer, enjoying the shelter of tlie thickets; and both arc so common at table, that they are not considered as dainties. We visited several towns with Dutch names; at one, called Utrecht, there was a fair, where we saw a negro who came from Virginia! He was born of negro parents, (of course both black,) and he continued of the same colour till he was for- ty, when he became gradually of a paler hue, till his skin was changed to the complexion of a European with red hair. He has, however, still some brown spots remaining, though they are daily growing smaller and smaller. His hair is as much altered as his skin; for straight, smooth locks have succeeded to the short, curly wool that formerly covered his head. As it does not affect his health, it is a happy metamorphosis for him; for he gains a comfortable subsistence by showing himself to the curious. Having exhausted our curiosity at New York^ we proceeded through Connecticut and Rhode Island to Boston, the capital of Massachusets Bay. A more minute account of the places we passed in our way hither, shall conclude this letter. On first leaving the city, I observed many hand. some country villas, belonging to rich merchants, who precipitately retire from the pestilential infec tion, on the earliesr, rumour of the yellow fever. The rugged i-ocks of Jersey have a striking effect, &om; 1R4 from the opposite sliore of an arm of the North lliver, which separates the island of New York from the main land. The prospect from Stamford is varied with verdant meadows, and woods chitHy composed of pines, spruce firs, and birch-trees. The farmers in this part of the coast prefer rear. ing cattle to the cultivation of corn, because the climate is subject to blasts that destroy the crop, Between Stamford and Fairfield we passed a few pretty villages, tliough the country is thinly inlia- bited, and intersected with rugged rocks. The pleasant flourishing town of Newhaven lies round the head of a bay, about four miles north of the sound, and covers part of a spacious plain, bounded on three sides by mountains. The state-house, the church, and the college, are the principal public edifices; the latter possesses a library of several thousand volumes, and a museum of natural ciu riosities. The houses are chiefly wood; but many of the streets, and the square, are planted with trees, which gives them a regular appearance. Fifty ships belong to the port, and a brisk trade in wood, oxen, horses, and mules, to the West Indies, and produce of different kinds to New York, em- ploys the industrious inhabitants. Beyond Newhaven we crossed a morass ofteu overflowed by the tide, succeeded by a road bound- ed on one side by the river, and on the other by hills, till we came to Middleton> the great market for the farmers from the northern parts of New York. IL J85 York, Massachuscts, and Vermont, to dispose ol their horses, mules, and black cattle, for exportation to the West Indies. Ilecteding from the Sound, wc travelled along a country adorned with woods and meadows, and enlivened by numerous herds ol cattle, to Hartford, the chief town of the county of the same name. The inhabitants seem much on an equality, and the houses adapted to their hundjlc .ircumstances; they are large enough for comfort, but too small for ostentation. We rode through woods of oak and hiccory, varied by open fields, bordered with fruit-trees, to Lebanon, beyond which the country became hilly to Norwich, where two rivers unite: one of them is called the Thames. Here our attention was turned to the ingenious arts practised by the people of Norwich. Mills of all sorts are built near the town; and manufactures of paper, stockings, clocks, buttons, earthen-ware, oil, chocolate, and iron forges, where the operations vary from the drawing of wire to the casting of bells and anchors, employ the inhabitants. Within a mile after leaving this busy scene, a romantic cataract presented itself, by the waters of the Quinaburg rushing over some high rocks. At New London we were diverted by the occu- pations of a commercial sea-port, having the best harbour in Connecticut. Cattle, salted provisions, butter, and cheese, are exported from thence to the West Indies, and the other states; and wood, lin- seed, pearl-ash, and sumac, to England. The sumac is. ii 1 m ? I II I 1 J f ^^R^if'^'P' IFy^T 1 {\ 186 is prepared for the dyers, from the invention of a merchant of this port, who has received a patent for his discovery. Leaving the confines of Connecticut, we entered the territory of Rhode Island, and proceeded over v; tched roads, where the miserable habitations marked the poverty of many of the owners, to Pro- vidence, the most flourishing town in the state. It is built on both sides of a river of the same name; the two divisions being united Ly a handsome bridge. There are many lofty, substantial, and well-finished houses in this town; and its prosper- ous manufactures and foreign commerce, are likely to augment the sources of its wealth. There is one of the largest distilleries in the United Stales, be- sides extensive nail manufactories, and other forged iron-work. We were introduced to the elegant college, which was founded, principally, by the Baptists, and is still very much engrossed by that community. Roger Williams, a man of a very amiable character, and a divine, was banished, in 1636, from Plymouth, on account of his particular opinions. He retired to Salem, where his gentle manners gained him many friends ; but the same spirit of persecution drove him from thence to seek a new asylum amongst the Indians, in the northern part of this state, whither he was followed by a few- adherents, and by their mutual assistance, and the kind offices of the Indians, he laid the foundations oi tne luwii, uuu gave it um iiunic or xroviucnce. Plymouth, 187 Plymouth, the next town of importance, is en- gaged in the fishery, besides forges and iron-works The college at Hingham detained us for an hour or two, as I rather wished to see it. It is composed of a number of small schools united, and is attended by nearly four hundred scholars. We were much pleased by the neat coopers' work that employs the townsmen. Tubs, pails, and other wooden ware, are to be purchased here in perfection. From this place we went by water to Boston, the capital of Massachusets Bay. The length of my letter is a suificient apology I for concluding myself your affectionate friend, II. FHANKLIN, *^*^'V».v%*^%-* a LETTER XXVI. Jrthur Middleton to Edunn, n.Tr ^-r, • -. Boston, MY DEAR BROTHER, BEFORE I describe the town of Boston, llliere arc some things that occurred in our journey between l^Q^y York and this place worth your (attention. One of our fellow-passengers in the stage- waggon, \n% a manufacturer of pearl and pot ash, who, with his • ^ I '■ 188 his wife, a pretty, modest-looking young woman, was going to visit some relations in Connecticut. Mr. Franklin, wlio never loses an opportunity of adding to his knowledge, by collecting information from people of all classes and professions, turned the conversation upon the quantity of these ashes exported from America; and hinted, that as I was ignorant of the arts used to bring them to perfection, he would be obliged to him to enter a little into the detail of the processes necessary for that purpose. The manufacturer was pleased with this attention, and very readily gave me the following account, " The vast woods that cover the uncleared part of our country," said he, "furnish us with immense quantities of timber, some of which we burn, and afterwards collect the ashes for this purpose. " Our first care is to purify the ashes from every other substance that may be mixed with them, by washing them in tubs with double bottoms. The ley thus produced is boiled in large iron cauldrons, till all the watery particles have evaporated, and it is become of a proper substance. The ashes of green wood, and especially of oak, are most esteemed; and no pot-ash can be procured from resinous trees, such as the pine or the fir. "When our pot-ash is completely finished, it requires the greatest care to pack it in barrels ofl white oak, made so close, that neither damp nor m can enter, or the ashes would dissolve, and the cask be half emptyj before it reached tlie destined I port* barrels of :3amp nor , and the J destined ! port. 189 port." I thanked Iiim for the information, ami desired to know what are the ingredients of pearl- ash. " It is only pot-ash;' replied he, " refined by fire to a still greater degree of purity. The operation is performed in a drying kiln, heated by a fire beneath it." "Both pot and pearl ash," remarked Mr. Franklin, « are of great use to manufacturers in other branches of trade: the glass-maker, the bleacher, the fuller, the soap-maker, the scourer, the dyer, and the apothecary, would be at a loss to complete their different works, without vegetable ashes properly prepared, to promote the effects of other ingredients." On the other side of the waggon sat a rough, honest-looking sailor, who began to think it was high time for him to take part in the conversation. He told us that he had risen from a cabin-boy to be captain of a vessel in the whale fishery, and that he had been as far in the South Sea as the Cape of Good Hope; and to the North, to Hudson's Bay, in search of fish. He added, that in all his voyages, he had lost but two men from accidents, and that he was beloved by those whom he employed; that he paid them liberally in blubber instead of money; and, with a conscious smile, he finished his narrative by saying, that the trade was profitable, and that he had made a fortune. The master of the inn at Newhaven, finding we were Englishmen, showed us the rocks where Goffe and Whaley, two of the judges who condemned Charles I 190 Charles the First to death, hid themselves from the soldiers, who were sent by his son, Charles tho Second, to search for them. They lay snug under a bridge for some d.iys, whilst their pursuers passed and repassed it without finding them. In order to give you a clear notion of our journey from New York to Boston, I must tell you we passed through parts of the stat.s of Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusets. The first settlers in Connecticut were driven from England to avoid persecution, on account of dissenting from tlie opinions of the church; but they were not sufficient. ly instructed by their own sufferings to leave others at liberty. In their turn they persecuted those who differed from them, and drove them to seek refuge in new settlements. The first Englishmen who established themselves in Connecticut were bigoted, enthusiastic people, of the Presbyterian persuasion, and cruelly oppressed their brethren of different sects, especially the Quakers, many of whom they tortured and banished. Their descendants are very strict, on far better grounds than difference of opinion; for they punish gaming of all kinds, even horse-racing: and in order to preserve decorum on Sundays, impose a fine on those who travel on that day. With such an attention to morality, it is strange that they so long allow the horrid slave- trade. The inhabitants of this province are very active and liberal in the establishment of public i/istitutions for the education of children. Schools are 191 OT so general, and the people so well instructed that abiost all can at least read, write, and cipher ' In Rhode Island, on the contrary, they are very iterate, and have few schools. A large proportio; of he inhabuants are Baptists and Quakers, but alk.„d3 of Christians are allowed to worship i„ their o«^ way unmolested. The district of Rhode Island IS an wtermixture of meadows and fields of niatze; barley and flax are also cultivated i„ great quantities: but the principal object of the farmers ,s grazing, and their cheese is celebrated 1 roughout America. Ge,^ral Green was a native of thts provmec, and the people boast of the onour of being his countrymen. He was a disfngutshed general in the American revolution- md though he fought against the English it appears that his bravery and military skill endelred Inn. to h,s soldiers; and that his humanity to the vanquished, and moderation in prosperity, have «tabl,shed his character as a person of great We are now at Boston, which is the capital of •New England, as well as of Massachusets Bay It stands upon a peninsula, united to the continent by a narrow isd.mus. The view over the capacious arbour, containing many islands, is very fine; but le entrance of the bay is so narrow, that not more lan two large ships can enter it at tb3 same time |*ough it is capable of containing ,. numerous Some mi■^ ^^^H 1 1 HI 1 ■ 192 Some of these islands are guarded by soldiers, to prevent the approach of an enemy; and tlie convicts of the state are sent to one of them, named Castle Island, and employed in making shoes and nails. Boston is united to the flourishing village of Charlestown, by a fine bridge, built over Charles's River. The town spreads, in the form of a crescent, round the harbour. Boston is not very large, nor are the streets regular; but nevertheless it is pleasant, and the people are so kind and sociable, that I should like to live here better than in any large town I have been in on the American con- tinent. , On the spot where the fort stood is a simple! monument, erected to the memory of General! Warren; a revolutionary general, who lost his life in its defence. Boston trades to all parts of tiie globe; of coursel the harbour is a busy, lively scene, which I often enjoy from the noble pier, which is two thousand] feet long. Some of the ships belonging to this port carry! on a trade between the western coast of America aiiil| Canton in China. These vessels make a very long voyage round South America, for the sake of purchasing the skinsl of the sea-otter, which is the most valuable of fursJ and having obtained a cargo, sail to the westwardj till they reach Canton, where they barter then with the Chinese for their manufactures, whicll m 193 .re either used by the Americans, or exported to Europe. '^ Mr. Franklin says, that though luxury has many evils, .t „ the means of bringing distant nation, acquainted wnh each other, by the desire for commodities that are not produced at home This enterprising life would be just the thing for me, and when I have made the tour of America I hope my mother will let me go on a voyage' of discovery, ° I wish our tastes were more alike, that we might travel together; for nothing but your company is wanting to complete the enjoyment of your Affectionate brother, ARTHUR MIDDLETON. k*'VV%%% LETTER XXVIt Arthur Middleton to Jtis Brother Edzvin. .<■ \ '3 I'- ;| .EAB EDWIN, ^""^ '** °-^ "'"^'•"•eUck nu.n e of fm llor the province of Maine, which lies towards the vestwari|.orth east. At a town called Lynn, standing on a •ter the|.toll haven, we got a good breakfast, and observed :s, wh. Jthat the people are chiefly employed in making ^ shoes* ¥l^ 1S4 shoes. We were told that four hundred thousand pair are sent every year to Boston, New York, and Philadelphia; and from these ports many of them are exported to Europe. We advanced no further that day than Salem, the capital of the county of Essex, a large, populous place, hand, somely built, with neat houses of a moderate size, suited to the inhabitants, who are chiefly engaged in foreign commerce, though there is a manufacture of sail-cloth. The senate-house is a spacious, elegant structure; but the harbour is so shallow and incon- venient, that a large vessel, heavily laden, cannot approach their quays; yet the enterprising spirit of the people has so well overcome this obstacle, that they trade to all parts of the globe. The ancestors of these industrious merchants were ignorant and superstitious; for in 1692, they per- secuted, in a cruel manner, a number of unhappy wretches, for the imaginary crime of witchcraft. How absurd ! For the honour of Salem, however, its townsmen were not alone in this ridiculous I notion; the same miserable delusion disgraced New England in general at the same period. We took a pleasant walk in the afternoon to Marblehead, a small port on the same bay, wildly situated in the| midst of rocks. The place seemed to be inhabited only byl wretched looking women and children, so that I could not help asking one of the former, whetberl they had banished men from their society. She| replied, 195 replied, with a smile, that there were plenty of men, but that they were all employed on the sea, hshmg for cod, which they cure and then call them stock-fish. On our return, we crossed over a bridge that unites Salem to Beverley, where such multitudes of cod are cured, that we were almost poisoned by the smell of them. You shall know the process, without suffering the inconvenience. After the fish are brought on shore, they are washed, and laid in heaps to drain; and when they have been exposed to the air two or three davs, they are placed on hurdles, which extend the length of a large field, till they are sufficiently dry \o be packed in cases, pressed down, and sent either to the West Indies or Europe. The whole coast of Massachusets and Maine is inhabited by a hardy race of men, who are engaged m the fishery on the Great Sand Bank. In our way to Ipswich we saw several fields of flax and hemp. Gloucester is situated at the bottom of Cape Ann, and here our noses were again assailed by the odoriferous smell of the stock-fish. Newbury Port is built on the river Merrimack- It has ten public schools, and an institution called the Sea Company, which supports several small houses on an inlet in the mouth of the river, for the accommodation of shipwrecked sailors. Some of the inhabitants are employed in a nail, manufactory; and others in sugar-boiling, who are supplied with molasses from the Antilles, by the exchange of American commodities. ^ ^ Having If 196 m ! i Having crossed a fine bridge over llie Merrimack, we entered the higli road to rortsnioiuh, which is the principal town and harbour in New Hani|). shire, standing upon a bay formed by the river riscataqua, before it discharges its waters into the ocean. The Httle towns of Dover, Exeter, and Dcrham, each employed in trade and ship-building, lie on the arms of the bay and on the rivers that fall into it. The views in this neighbourhood arc rendered picturesque, by the intermixture of large rocks and rich meadows. A few miles beyond Portsmouth, we crossed the Piscataqua, over a bridge that is said to be the finest in America. It is built of wood, in the form of an angle, the two sides uniting on an arch of so great a height, that it admits small vessels to sail under it. The rest of our ride to Portland was through a populous country, bordering on a ridge of mountains that lie between the Piscataqua and the river Back ; commanding prospects de- lightfully varied by a great number of rivers, bays, and cultivated promontories, that terminate at a considerable distance in the mountains of New Hampshire. The whole coast is a continued zig-zag, formed by numerous bays, creeks, and promontories, pretty thickly inhabited; but the further we go, the less marks of wealth or industry we observe. Portland, however, is handsome in that part called the 107 the Sew Town. The Old Town was destroyed lii ti.e war of the revolution, and is rebuilt with uican houses, and inhabited by the meanest ranks: It stands on a )ieninsula that juts out into Casco my; as does North Yarmouth, on a creek of the smne bay. Here I was well amused with looking at the various operations of the ship.l)uilders, and examining mills of different kinds. We passed through Brunswiek and Wiscasect tno towns of which I have nothing to sav, before wo reached the ICennebeck, which is one of the pnncipal rivers of the province of Maine: its source is distant from its mouth two hundred miles, and it waters the finest woodlands in this region. The forests and the sea are the grand sources of riches to this district. Most of the people arc ciiher wood-cutters, fishers, or lime- burners. The dealers in wood retire with their families, about Noveml)er, into the recesses of tlie forests; having taken care, in the summer, to provide hay for their cattle, and a hut for themselves, on a particular spot marked for their winter residence. Thus dismally secluded from the comforts of a neighbourhood, they remain till April or May, unless very severe weather compels them to return sooner. Having felled their timber, they bring it on sledges to the brink of the river, ^vhero it remains till the rains swell the waters sufficiently to float it down the stream. Each wood- I owner knows his own trees by a particular mark. When i; 19« When tlicy reach the nioutli of the rivers, they are sent to different jx>rts belonging to the United States, in small yachts. Evening coming on, with an appearance of rain, we did not wait for a tavern; but rode up to the dour of a farmer, who admitted us with the kindest wcl. come. The manner of life and simplicity of be- haviour ot this happy family, resemble the stories of the patriarchs, of whom we read in the Bible. Redraws his whole support from the farm; he is surrounded by a number of children, who assist bv their labour to increase the common stock. The sons catch cod-fish and salmon, besides ploufrhitiff and sowing, and tending the cattle. The motlier and daughters not only spin all the linen they use, but also make the shoes for the family, out of the hides of the cattle they kill for sale. The good old man and his wife were determined to make a feast for the strangers; so a lamb was presently condemned, and a joint of it served for supper. The sideboard was supplied with beer, brewed from tbe twigs of the spruce fir-tree; and grog, which is a mixture of rum and water, a very common beverage wherever we go. After supper, they amu&cd us with an account of their employments, in lep'y a Mr. Franklin's questions concerning the dairy, the farm, the fishery, and the orchard. Every season brings with it something new, and they seem so afFe't'jo iate to one another, and so happy, I was readv to envy them. I went to bed full of they arc Unitud 199 of this pleasing scene, and dreamt of you and my sisters cultivating a little farm with me. I awoke, and the vast Atlantic rolled between us. I felt our separation, and rose out ot spirits. The cheerful conversation of the farmer and his family chased away dull thoughts; and the hour of depar- ture obliging us to take leave, we mounted our horses and renewed oui journey. Adieu. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. •^*%%%**v%v» •■« LETTER XXVIII. Mr, FranTcUn to Edwin Middleim, I' f if' m 1 t J* I i 4 "f ( ■ i f led full Penobscot. MY DEAIl YOUNG FRIEND, THE variety of scenes that succeed each other in our rambles through different parts of this extensive continent, will, I hope, in the repetition, amuse some of your leisure hours at home. The latter part of our journey hither, through a port! )n of the district of Maine, has been amidst a wild country, where the poverty of the inhabitants is apparent, from the wretched log-houses they live m, and the iew accommodations they possess. We have frequently taken shelter for the night, where our host could neither procure us rum, sugar, meat, nor ' 'S^^^^^^^^^ ^ m' H ■^H n ^^^^M ■1 HB1 ^^BHfli^^B 200 nor any bread but a soft kind of paste made of rye and Indian corn, that an English sportsman would scarcely think good enough for his dogs. A sue cession of small fishing-towns border the coast. The views round Penobscot Bay are agreeable, and enlivened by the different aspects of numerous islets, most of them inhabited by fishermen, whose boats,' scattered on the bosom of the water, complete the animation of the scene. The treasures of the sea are so easily procured, that they neglect to cultivate the land, and are contented to live in miserable huts, ill provided with clothes or food. People thus indifferent to private comfort, are not likely to attend to public accommodation; the roads, accordingly, are very indifferent, and are often obstructed by rocks and roots of trees. The silver fir grows plentifully in this district, especially near North Yarmouth; as do the red oak, the white oak, and another spe- cies ihat seldom exceeds fifteen feet in height. The black fir, the Weymoutn pine, the red cedar, the common fir, the red maple, the Pennsylvania ash, the black birch, and the dwarf birch, are also com- mon. Wood pigeons, and squirrels of different kinds, abound in the woods; the former emigrate in prodigious swarms to the southward, on the approach of winter. Bears and wolves are rather numerous. We lately met a large bear within a mile of a village; he crossed the road fearlessly. Arthur imprudently pursued him. The bear, not being 201 being pressed with hunger, ran away with oreat speed. ^ Either religion is at a low ebb, or civilization is but httle advanced, as I could hear of few buildings erected for public worship throughout the province. These people enjoy a healthy climate, and frequently attain a great age, though medical men are very scarce among them. We are now stationed in the only place that deserves the name of a town. It is called Penobscot, and contains about a thousand houses. We were rather surprised yesterday to recon- noitre our old acquaintance, the sea captain, who travelled with us in the stage-waggon between New York and Boston. The pleasure of meeting seemed mutual; and as he was just arrived from Nantucket, we were the more earnest to engage him to dine with us, that we might hear news of our faithful Sancho. He told us that our friend (for his fidelity and gratitude entitle him to that appellation) was likely to do very well, having already found continual employment in his trade of a cooper; and as he exceeded in neatness of workmanship, punctuality, and industry, there was no fear but he would gain a competency, which was all that could be desired m Nantucket, where the inhabitants are remarkably for the simplicity of their behaviour and the mo- deration of their desires. The wealthiest amongst them make no display of their riches, luxury being ^^ 5 unknown ;f :' ■!■ ( m m ' S102 unknown in the island: no coaches, no finery or grand houses, but every one enjoys his gains in the comforts of life, and in sharing them with his neigh- bours. He described tlie island as a barren, sandy spot, that appears to be the summit of a huge mountain, which extends under the water. It is covered here and there with sorrel, grass, a few cedar-bushes, and scrubby oaks. The swamps yield peat, which is valuable for firing; and the ponds and lakes are covered with wild-fowl and black ducks. The shores abound with the soft-shelled, the hard, shelled, and the great sea-clams, a most nutritious shell-fish. Fishing is the principal diversion of these islanders, and contributes materially to their support. The most common fish are the streaked bass, the blue fish, the tom-cod, the mackerel, the tewtag, the herring, the flounder, and the eel. The sea supplies their riches and employments. Few of the inhabitants devote themselves to the cultivation of the ground, though many of them possess pas. tures for sheep, and a cow or two, which their wives take charge of, whilst they are gone on fishing expeditions in distant latitudes. This general description of Nantucket did not fully satisfy Arthur, who was impatient to hear the particulars of Sancho's situation. The captain replied to his enquiries on the subject in the following words: ** The little money with which your bounty favoured Sancho, 203 Sancho has enabled him to procure a house con- ven.ently suuaCed near the sea-shore. It is a neat comfortable habitation, painted on the outside with cc-ne br„ught from a neighbouring island, called Marthas A'.neyard, where a promontory, known by .he name of Gay-Head, yields a variety of earths, of different colours. His gratitude to you is extreme; he attributes all his blessings to your gemosUy His wife is remarkable for her indiistry and attachment to her husband; and is esteemed for her good-nature by all her neighbours, which gams h.m a great deal of custom; and as their frugality and good management are equal to their ass.du.ty, Sancho expects to save money, and purposes, when able, to purchase a share in a whale, trader, and go in quest of that profitable fish- a profess.on that is followed by the principal men on the island." This led to the subject of the whale-fishery carried on by these hardy mariners; and the account is so interesting, that I transmit the substance of it for your entertainment. The vessels used for this purpose are not large, and are always manned with thirteen hands, that they may row two whale-boats, the crews of which must consist of six ; four at the oars, one at the bows with the harpoon, and the other at the helm. It is indispensable that there should be two of these boats, that, if one should be overset in attacking the T7 ssuic* e M M 204 whale, the other should be ready to save the hands. Five of the thirteen arc always Indians; and the thirteenth man remains on board, to steer the vessel during the action. None but young men are fit for this employment, which requires great vigour and agility. As soon as they arrive in those latitudes where whales are to be found, a man is sent up to the mast-head. If he sees one, he calls out, " Await, Pawana;" which signifies, " Here is a whale." The boats are immediately launched, filled with every implement necessary for the attack. They row towards the whale with astonishing velocity. When they have reached a proper distance, one of them rests on its oars, and stands off to witness the approaching engagement. The harpooner in the other, in a jacket closely buttoned, and a handker- chief bound tight round his head, stands on the bow, with the dreadful weapon in his hand, to the shaft of which is firmly tied the end of a cord, that is coiled up in the middle of: the boat, with the other end fastened to the bottom. When the harpooner judges that they are near enough to the whale, he orders them to stop. If the whale has a calf, whose safety attracts the attention of the dam, it is considered to be a favourable cir- cumstance: if she happens to be asleep, he balances high the harpoon, trying in this critical moment to collect all the energy he can exert. He launches forth the instrument of death. She is struck. From 205 From her first movement, tlicy judge of her temper, as well as of their success. Sometimes, in the sudden impulse of rage, she m\\ attack the boat and demolish it with one stroke of her tail. In an instant the frail vehicle disappears and the assailants are plunged into the dangerous clement. Were the whale armed with the jaws o ' the shark, and as voracious, they never would return home to amuse their listening wives with the interesting tale of their adventures. Sometimes on the first stroke, she will dive and disappear from' human sight, and every thing must then give way to her velocity, or all is lost. At other times, she will swim away as if untouched, and draw the cord with such swiftness, that it will set the edge of the boat on fire by the friction. If she rises before she has run out the whole length, she is looked upon as ;i sure prey. The blood she has lost in her flight weakens her so much, that, if she sinks again, it is but for a short time; the boat follows her course with an almost equal speed. She soon re-appears, tired with her exertions, and having tinged the water with her blood, dies, and floats upon the surface. Perhaps at another time she may not be dangerously wound- ed, though she carries the harpoon fast in her body; when she will alternately dive and rise, and swini on with unabated vigour. She then soon reaches beyond the length of the cord, and carries the boat along with amazing swiftness. The harpooner, with the axe in his hands, stands ready. When he f y ! t - S06 he observes that the bows of the boat are much pulled down by the diving whale, and that it begins to sink deep and to take in a great deal of water, he brings the axe almost to the cord. Pie pauses, still flattering himself she will slacken hor pace; but the moment grows critical — unavoidable danger threatens them. But it is vain to hope; their lives must be saved: the cord is cut: the boat rises again. If, after thus getting loose, she makes a second appt arance, they will attack and wound her again. She soon dies; and when dead, is towed alongside their vessel, where she is secured. Their next care is to cut up their prey, and set the kettles a boiling, in order to procure the oil, which is the reward of their dangerous enterprize. J>iiFerent occupations promote vice or virtue according to their peculiar influence. The life of a whaler is a continued exercise of fortitude, courage, activity, and presence of mind : qualities renowned in those who have too often turned them to the purpose of destroying or oppressing their fellow- creatures ; whilst they are sometimes overlooked in the hardy mariner, who risks his hfe to procure a maintenance for himself and family, and contributes by his labours to the good of the community. The honest captain having finished his narration, we thanked him for the information he had given us, and Arthur entrusted him with a letter and a present to Sancho, after which we took leave. He departed 207 departed to his ship; and we are preparing to em- bark on board a vessel bound to Boston. Believe me, with sincere attachment, yours, HENRY FRANKLIN. i ' kVfcV^VX'W LETTER XXIX. Arthur Middletm to Edwin. Mr DEAR BOY, ^"^' WE came from Penobscot to Boston in a vessel heavily laden with a cargo ot firewood; it was happy for us our passage lasted but two days, as the very deck was so crammed, that there was only room for the steersman, which ren- dered the voyage very disagreeable. Mr. Franklin could not resist the pleasure of staying a few days with our friends at Boston, whose hospitality engaged us at different houses every day. In one of these cheerful meetings, the conversation turned upon the fine arts, and an American, who was desirous of praising the talents of his countrymen, observed, that several of the celebrated artists whose works adorn our public exhibitions in London. were Americans. I was so ignorant, that I was obliged to enquire who they were. « The president of ;l '' 208 of your Royal Academy," said he, " West, is a native of Pennsylvania, whose historical pictures will transmit his fame to posterity. Stuart was born in Rhode Island, and Triimball in Connecticut" continued he; "and this town may boast of having given birth to Copley, whose works need only be seen to excite the warmest admiration. Can any one," said he, "cast his eyes on the Death of Lord Chatham, or that of Major Pearson, and not sympathize with the spectators in their sorrow." The company agreed in their encomiums, though few of them had seen these pictures; and Mr. Franklin politely closed the subject, by remarking that this group of painters, alone, was a trophy to the genius of an infant country, which had not yet had leisure to draw forth the talents of her sons in cultivating the works of imagination. " To these names," continued he, " let me add that of Ritten- house, the self-taught astronomer; perhaps second to no one of any country in that science, and the inventor of so curious an orrery, that he may be said to have approached nearer to the imitation of the motion of the planets, than any that has gone before him. I am told also," said he, "that the real inventor of that instrument called Hadle/s quadrant, vras one Godfrey, a Philadelphian. In botany you may mention with applause the inde- fatigable and amiable Bartram ; and in ornitho- logy, the persevering Wilson. Nor need I enlarge on the genius of Washington in politics, or Franklin iii and Unitai public libra valuable est sand vol urn property of Cambridge, college, upo two hundrei students. ' a hall for p valuable libr, the only stam mission into ledge of nis students have The state Sew York: great style, i the first squ (incfions e%i M>ij Vest, is a I pictures t was born inecticut," of havincr d onlj be Can any Death of I, and not sorrow." s, though and Mr. (markinsf, 209 in philosophy, so wcJl known to all Euiopc, for" further proofs of the capacity of your nation to excel III the various departments of taste and science '* The company seemed pleased with his complaisance and we parted in the highest good humour. Boston has a population of forty thousand, yet it is not a city: this arises from an apprehension in the mhabitants, that the powers vested in corpo- rations would be injurious to their liberties. This town is the head quarters of Federalism in politics and Unitarianism in religion. The Athancum' public library, under the care of Mr. Shaw, is a valuable establishment. It contains eighteen thou- sand volumes, four thousand of which are the property of the present secretary of state. At Cambridge, four miles from Boston, is situated a college, upon a large and liberal scale: it contains im hundred and fifty apartments for officers and students. There is a philosophical apparatus, and a hall for public recitations; a dining-hall; and a valuable library, which contains a few, and almost the only standard works in the United States. Ad- mission into the college requires a previous* know- ledge of mathematics, Latin, and Greek. All students have equal rights. The state of society in Boston is better than in Xew York: many of the richer families live in great style, and in houses little inferior to those of the first squares of London and Dublin. Dis'^ t'lncfions exist, to an extent rather ludicrous under f: fl i> '■ I. „™i., -y Wft' ■■ ' ' t 'l :iS la- under a free and SIO liar government. There arc the first class, second class, third class, and the ** old families.'" On an eminence in the mall, a fine public walk, is built the state-house, in which the legislature hold their meetings. The view from the top of this building is surpassed by nothing which I have seen: the bay with its forty islands, the shipping, the town, the hill and dale scenery for a distance of thirty miles, present an assemblage of objects which are beautifully picturesque. A great increase of interest is communicated by the knowledge of the fact, that Boston is the birth-place of the im. mortal Franklin; and that here broke forth the first dawnings of the ever-memorable revolution. Education is rightly valued in this state, as one of the most important features of legislation. There are public schools, and amongst them some at which the learned languages are taught. The number of churches is as follows: viz. twelve Congregationalists, (nine of which are said to be Antitrinitarians,) two Episcopalian, three Baptist, one ditto for blacks, one Quaker, one Universal.! ist, one Roman Catholic, two Methodist, one I travelling-preacher ditto. There being here iiu peculiar state religion, men are allowed the liberty of choosing to which ©f the sects existing here they shall belong. To the support of me of these, i however, they are compelled to contr\hute; and should they neither attend the worship, nor believe j in I""V ill the doctrines of any of them, the payment must equally be made, and it then goes to the funds of the Congregationalist body. The genuine yankies (New Englanders) are ignorant of slavery: they have been necessitated to labour with their own hands: they have not been demoralized by a familiarity with a system that establishes a barrier between fellow-beings on ac- count of their colour: they have not been taught, that because their neighbour's face was (to use their own expression) a ^-rade darker than their own, he was therefore of an Inferior species: they have relied on their own resources, and the consequence is, that they are more enterprising, more healthy, more enlightened, and altogether better suited to cultivate the wilderness with success, than their slave-holding neighbours. The time for bidding adieu to Boston and its agreeable inhabitants being come, we once more sallied forth in a westerly direction, through a con- tinued village for twenty miles. Handsome houses; cleanly and pleasant buildings; numerous churches; neat gardens; orchards, rich in autumnal fruit; fields covered with flocks and herds, and adorned with clumps of trees, enlivened our road to Marl- borough, and showed the striking contrast between this part of the country, and the district of Maine, through which we had lately passed. The scene was something similar the next day : in every vil- lage the streets were hned with shops; cabinet- makers, a f I; ■» i •' It '1 1 r It,' clev as 21« makers, shoemakers, saddlers, and tanners, hrsi other trades, were very frequent, and the land v, carefijlly cultivated, even where, in places, it was stony and rocky. The farm-houses are numerous neatly built with wood, and painted white: the stables and barns arc mostly red, and the fences are made of stones, collected from the fields. At length we approached the beautiful river Connecticut, and crossed it in a boat: fifty miles further up the stream it is navigable for small vessels. We jiassed the night at Northampton, the capital of the county of Hampshire, in the state of IMassaehusets: the town is large, and handsomely built. From this place our course lay across the Green Mountains, a wild, rocky tract of country; but the hills are cul- tivated to the very summit. This chain of rocks led us to the small, neat town of Pittsfield: thence we continued to ascend a hilly country, and on the top of Hancock Mountain, passed the boundary where the province of Massachusets is united to that of New York. We reached New Lebanon on a Sunday morning, and observed many country people, who had come on horseback to the churches we passed, putting up their horses in open stables, built on purpose for the accommodation of those \vho come from a distance. This is a useful custom, that prevails in most parts of America. Hearing that there was a settlement of the Shakers at this place, we attended their public worship, which was held in a large meeting-Iiouse, furnished with benches. 213 knclics. The chief elder, who seems to direct Ihe whole ceremony, sat nearly in the centre. At first, the most profound silence was observed; when, on a signal from the chief elder, all present rose from their seals, and the men and women funned two distinct rows opposite to each other in form of a fan. They stood in this position a Rmv minutes, when many of them began to shake and tremble. At the nod of iheir director, they fell on their knees; when presently rising again, they chanted, but no words could I distinguish. This ceremony being over, a few of the elders of both sexes seated themselves by the side of the chief I elder, who made signs to the congregation to draw I up in nine or ten companies, each sex still keeping apart; the men having first pulled off, and hung up, their coats. A general shout now took plac^ followed by an odd kind of dance. The dancers I having retaken their seats, two women came in with I brooms, and swept, first on the men's side, and I (hen on the women's ; after this, the same ceremonies \ as before were repeated. The service lasted about three hours; when it broke up, the people departed in regular order, two and two, followed by the chief [elder. Blue is their favourite colour; for the ! ornaments of wood-work, and the window frames of the meeting-house, were painted sky-blue. The men were dressed in blue coats, blue and white spotted pantaloons, and black waistcoats. The I women wore long white gowns, blue petticoats, blue t, ( : ' ft S14 blue and white spotted aprons, large square plaited handkerchiefs, with plain caps tied under the chin. We were not able to discover the opinions on which they found their extraordinary mode of worship and living. Each settlement forms a republic, whose members work for the benefit of the community, which, in turn, supplies all their wants. The chief elder may be called the governor of the society, but the sect is always headed by a woman, who may be compared to the Pope; as they beliove her infallible, and when she dies, elect another: even the chief elders are only her deputies, Their village is remarkably neat and pretty, and their garden kept in the nicest order. They have four large dwelling-houses, where the brethren and sisters live in separate apartments; all the other buildings are shops or warehouses, in which they carry on a variety of trades and manufactures. They do not allow marriage, and oblige married people who enter their society to renounce eacli other. But, notwithstanding their singularities, they are esteemed by their neighbours as an in- dustrious, punctual, kind-hearted set of people. When the service was over, we returned to the inn to dinner, close to which we were shown a mineral spring, that bursts forth from the declivity of a mountain, and is esteemed efficacious in many disorders. The rest of the road to Albany lies in the midst of a mountainous district, but lately brought under the plough. We took up our quar. ters ters in this < Dutchmen a ancc of the I that I could It is distant miles ; has hour. In tl narrow, and gable end to rising in stc weather-cocki but the moc streets broad Here are sev different sect Lutheran ch appearance. manufactures the town ; as \ tobacco, mus curious water chief of the in the advantag( strangers from trade is princ the Mohawk c agriculture ai exports mostly of every sort, \ factured goods 215 ters In this city for a week or ten days: it is full of Dutchmen and their descendants, and the appear ance of the buildings so much like those in Holland that I could have fancied myself in a Dutch town' It IS distant from New York one hundred and sixty miles; has an extensive trade, and a good har bour. In the old part of the town the streets are narrow, and the houses ugly; being built with the gable end towards the street, the pyramidal part rising HI steps, and terminating with large iron weather-cocks, in the form of men or animals- but the modern buildings are handsome, and the streets broad. It is also well paved and lighted Here are several places for worship, belonging to different sects; the most remarkable is the Dutch Lutheran church, a Gothic structure of singular appearance. I was much entertained with the manufactures of glass for windows and bottles, near the town; as well as with a set of mills for preparino- tobacco, mustard, starch, and cocoa, worked by curious water-machlnery. A few years ago the chief of the mhabitants were of Dutch origin, but the advantages for commerce are so great, that strangers from all quarters have settled here. The trade is principally carried on with the produce of the Mohawk country, and reaches eastward as far as agriculture and cultivated lands extend. The exports mostly consist in peltry, timber, and lumber of every sort, pot and pearl ashes, grain, and manu- factured goods; which are brought hither in winter on i \i ,) 216 on sledges, and sent by the merchants to New York whence they are frequently exported to Europe. Getting money is the grand object at Albany, and business the delight of most of the people; yet a few of the Dutch Dons have found leisure to entertain us j with great civility. Their hospitality has detained us here some time. Our route is determined by Mr. Franklin to the northward, to visit the shores of Lake Champlain, whence I shall probably write again. Adieu. — A kiss to both my sisters, and do not suifer absence to weaken your affection for yours ARTHUR MIDDLETON, »**v*v*v* LETTER XXX. Arthur Middleton to his Brother Edwin, St. Jo?in\ on Lake Champhh, Dear edwin, A PROMISE, my dear Edwin, should always be observed : I hasten to fulfil mine, and to give you the particulars of our journey from Albany to Lake Champlain. Cohoos is a small village, which is distinguished hy the neighbourhood of a remarkable fall in the Mohawk Mohawk y\\ novehy to n of this, whic had before se hundred yar across it, ar falls about fif ance of this the quantity scends in an the other; wl of tlie dark-c the direction Stillwater, a p uncommon tn opposite to it. by some mini marsh. Each of a pyramids rocks seem to ] of the water, ai below tlie rin bubbles up, as I of llie summi The guide shov I ill several expci candle in an that is put do\ I Franklin nor : I capable of feeli 217 Moliawk river. Though a cataract is no great novelty to me, I was charmed with the sublimity of tins which differs in many respects from most I bad before seen. The breadth of the river is three hundred yards; a ledge of roeks extends quite across ., and from the top of them the water falls abou fifty feet perpendicularly. The appear. ancc of this grand spectacle varies according to the quantity of water: after heavy rains it de. scends m an unbroken sheet, from one bank to 1 e other; whilst, at other times, the greater part ol the dark-coloured rocks are visible. Followine .1,6 direction of the Hudson river, we came to Stillwater, a place that receives its name from the .incommon tranquillity of that part of the stream opposite to it. We were stopped an hour or two I by some mineral springs upon the borders of a marsh. Each of them is contained in the crater of a pyramidal rock, about a man's height. The rae s seem to have been formed by the petrifaction of the water, and the water within them is generallv elmv the rim of the mouth of the rock: it tabbies up, as if boiling; and at the beginning the summer, regularly overflows the basin. I Ilie guide showed us the properties of these springs i «. several experimenis. They extinguish a lighted candle ,„ an instant, and suffocate ..„y animal tot IS put down into the rock; but neither Mr IFmnkhn nor myself could suffer any creature I opable of feeling, to be tormented for o„r amuse- ^ ment. t f. 218 III; i mil ment. After having gratified our curiosity, we quickened our pace, and readied Saratoga before the close of evening. It consists of a few detached houses, and a Dutch reformed church. This place excited no very flattering recollections in my mind, as being remarkable for the surrender of General Burgoyne. Whilst we were examining the remains of the encampments, with painful reflections on the ill success of our countrymen, a grey-headed American, perceiving we were strangers, accosted us with a degree of national pride, perhaps allowable, but not very agreeable to our sensations at that moment, and related the events of that unfortunate day. " There, gentlemen,'" said he, "is the very spot where the British general delivered up his sword to our commander, General Gates/"' " Sir," replied Mr. Franklin, with more asperity than I ever heard him speak on any other occasion, " the next time you boast of the exploits of your countrymen, be sure that you know to whom you address yourself: we are EngHshmen;" and hastily taking hold of my arm, abruptly withdrew. The next day we renewed our journey, and ob- served that the woods of this part chiefly consist of different species of the oak, hiccory, hemlock firs, and Weymouth pines, which differ from the| tree of the same name in Europe. Amongst the I under- wood are plenty of wild raspberries, whidi we found very refreshing. Wretched roads, made of the trunks of trees, brought us, by Fort Edward and I Icurinsf refresh] •ii-JiiiM and Fort Anne, to Skenesboi-ough, a town situ, ated on the borders of Lake Champlain. Here Mr. Franklin hired a boat to convey us across the lake and having provided two or three blankets and a basket of provisions, we set sail with a fair wind Our voyage lasted several days, and was far more' agreeable than being cooped up in a large vessel on the ocean, where nothing is to be seen but the t sky above, and a vast expanse of water around • for we landed frequently, both for the sake of prol curing refreshments, and observing the mode of \ie of the people .vho dwell in the scattered tar.n. I houses that skirt tlie lake. Many of these arc wretched log-houses, that are scarcely a defence against the weather, and so badly supplied with any diuig eatable, that we could seldom obtain milk eggs, or even bread. At night, we generally wrapt ourselves in our blankets, and lay down on the bbm floor. This mode of sleeping is not very comfortable, till use has reconciled it; but when I am well tired in the day, I am not disturbed by the Iiardness of my bed. At Ticonderoga we enjoyed Iwith double relish, the comforts of a good inn, the jonly dwelling-house in the place. The agreeable accommodations arise from the good management lof the mistress, wiio is always the active person, Iwbilst the husband minds his farm or other occu- Vions. The ruins of the old fort and barracks are lo bo " m on the top of a rising ground just behind the ^ ^ tavern : h ,■»•, '1 220 tavern ; but they are in such a state of decay as to be of no use, nor is there any probability of their being repaired. There are the remains of another fort at Crown Point, which has also been demolished. Some of the ditches are, however, perfect; which with the ruined buildings, overgrown with different shrubs, particularly ivy, combined with a view of the lake and the distant mountains rising beyond it, have a fine effect. This prospect was rendered still more picturesque to us by a large birch canoe, full of Indians, in the dresses of the nation. Their skins were painted of various colours, and in the most whimsical manner: one leg of the same man was white, whilst the other was daubed with green; his body was bright yellow, and his face full of red I spots; and, to give his countenance the greatest possible fierceness, his eyes were of different colours. The others had indulged their taste with the samel irregularity; and all were adorned with feathers, horse-hair, rings, and bracelets; and to complete I their attire, each carried a small looking-glass, which was often consulted, in order. to touch up thel faded colours, or adjust their ornaments. In the course of our voyage we were frequently! regaled with magnificent landscapes from the shores,! of hanging woods, rocks, and mountains ; which in the evening received a rich glow from the reflection of the setting sun, that at the same time gilded the curling waters of the lake. The length of Lake Champlain is a hundred and twenty miles, and itsl brcadtlil 001 breadth from two to eighteen. In the widest part are a great number of islands; the largest of them IS called South Hero, and contains five hundred inhabitants. The broad lake reaches fifty miles, and termmates in a large river, named Sorelle, which is lost m the mighty St. Lawrence. Its waters are of great depth, and the shore in many places moun- tainous and rocky. The splashing of the waters into their chasms, makes an uncommon hollow, murmuring noise, when the wind rises to a breeze' Some of the rocks shelve under the water, at no great depth beneath it, as we experienced by a sudden shock, which convinced us that our boat had struck on one of them. All was confusion in a moment, and every one of us obliged to help to disengage her; in which we succeeded, with no greater misfortune than a thorough drenching— a circumstance that obliged us to get ashore at the first house that would receive us. It was the dwelling of a plain Scotch labourer, who also performed the functions of a judge. Having passed the boundary that separates the United States from the British dominions, we reached a garrison town called St. John's, whither the Indian party had arrived before us. With them we perceived a middle-aged white man, whose languishing, harassed countenance, had something peculiarly interesting in it; especially, as with the traces of grief, was a mixture of calm resignation painted on his face. Mr. Franklin was so struck with ''HI ..J^"^ fin with his appearaiiet, that he sat down anioncst them, and insinuated himself into their favour. The stranger seemed pleased with his attentions, but did v.qK appear very communicative, till an opportunity occurred of conversing in private; when he related liis lii'story, which is so long, it must be deferred to a i'uiuro letter. Adieu. May every happiness attend you. ARTHUR MIDDLETON, LETTER XXXI. Mr. Henry Franklin to Edwin Middleton. St. John\ oil Lake ChampMn. MY DEAR EDWIN, THERE is no occasion to have recourse to novels or feigned tales, in order to amuse and int^^rest, whilst the occurrences of real life are often so full of extraordinary accidents, and contain more instruction than the fictions of the imagination* Arthur mentioned, in his last, a Avhite man that we met with amongst a party of Indians. It proved to be a merchant, who resided at Richmond *The principal circumstances of this narrative are facts related by the Duke de Rochefoucault Liancourt. in S23 in Virginia, but, frc n a train of unfortunate cir* ..umstances, had fallen into their hands as a prisoner. A settled distress was marked on his faee, till he perceived I gained tlie confidence of the chief who commanded the expedition, when something Uku hope began to animate his listless frame. His master did not watch him with such jealousy as to prevent him from telling me his unhappy story, and interesting me in his fate. It happened, some time ago, that he was obliged to go to Kentucky, to receive some money that was due to him. He was accompanied by a friend who was a land- holder in Kentucky. They proceeded together to the banks of the Great Kenliaway, where they met with several other persons, who were also goino- to Kentucky. They joined company, and pur- chased between them one of those slight, large, Hat-bottomed vessels, without any deck, that are used merely to descend the Ohio, but are not suffi- ciently substantial to remount the stream. Havino- imbarked with their merchandise and stores, they proceeded on the voyage, working the vessel them* selves. Their company consisted of six persons: tour men, and two young women who were sisters, and going to settle, under the protection of a rela- tion, at Kentucky. They were all fully aware that the navigation of the Ohio is not free from dancer iroui tlie Indians; but they also knew that an attack on a vessel in the midst of the stream is very rare, md that such an attempt, with so many on board, had it 1 j . i f 1 t h I - ' J t i L. ^ J-^" I*, 1 ♦ III II mfi '2U had not hcQxx heard of for many years. Confidi,,, in their numbers, tliey proceeded, without anxiety a hundred and six miles, when, about day-brcak they were ahu-med by the most dreadful shriekv' proceeding Ironi two wliitc men on the shore, wl,o told them, with the most affecting tone of grief that they had been taken prisoners by the Inlians and had made their escape, but feared again to fall into their hands. They said they had not eaten any thmg for the last four days, and entreated, if thcv could not be taken on board, to be at least supplied "vvith some provisions, and saved from perishincr by hunger. That humanity which is implanted ii every breast, pleaded in their favour with all on board; till a little further consideration induced those of most experience to apprehend that thev should expose themselves to danger, by stopping to assist these unfortunate persons. Their argu. ments were, however, overruled by the rest; and the women, especially, declared it would be In act of the most barbarous cruelty to refuse assistance to two fellow-creatures in such deplorable circum. stances. Whilst this contest between prudence and compassion was carrying on, the two men followed the vessel along the shore. Their mournful lament. ations, their screams and expressions of agonizino' anguish and despair, still increasing, one of tlie passengers offered to go alone, aiid carry bread to these miserable sufferers, if his companion, would put him ou the land; alleging, that he should «25 should discern tl,e Indians from afar, if tliey made tlu-.r appearance; that in this case, the vessel might easily regain the middle of the stream ; and that he should be able to reach Limestone on foot where they might wait for him. Who could resist this proposal, so noble, so generous, so full of humanity ? Those who feared the consequences were obliged to yield. They steered towards the shore, where the two sufferers were dragging themselves along, as if tormented by the most excruciating pains. How lamentable, that generous compassion should ever be abused! The appre- hensions of the two gentlemen who opposed the measure were too well founded. The men were two traitors, under the direction of the Indians, and appointed by them to decoy the vessel to the shore. The Indians followed them at some dis. tancc, constantly concealing themselves behind trees. The moment the vessel reached the shore, they burst forth, about twenty-five or thirty in number, raised a dreadful howl, and fired on the affrighted passengers. Two of them were killed by tlie first firing, and the rest, in equal terror and astonishment, endeavoured to regain the middle of the stream; but being too near the shore, and their dexterity checked by a sense of danger, they made but little way. The Indians continued to fire. A man and one of the young women had already fallen victims; another man was wounded, and two horses were killed. Mr. Martin, (the ^ 5 name i if ; r M*1 ■ 't i *;,'.. 1 ■' 1 ■llJ "i|» ■ net mnhi of my new acquaintance,) and two others only, were left to use their exertions to save thcni- selves. The fury of the savages increased with their hopes of success. Some tlirew themselves into the river, and swam towards the ship; those who remained on shore threatened to repeat their fire, if the passengers made the least resistance, and levelled their pieces at them. The swimmers succeeded in bringing the ship on shore, and niy unfortunate friend and his companions were obliged to land, under the continued howls of the Indians; which, however, were no longer the accents of rage, but shouts of joy, on account of the seizure of their prey. The Indians offered them their hands, which m some measure allayed their apprehensions. Whilst some of their new masters were saluting their prisoners, and leading them to the shore, the rest were employed in landing the merchandise and stores. Some cut wood, and a fire was pre. sently made. The articles found in the ship were carried to the fire, as well as the bodies of the two unfortunate persons who had been shot: these thev completely stripped of their clothes, scalped thcni, and threw them into the river. T.he scalps were dried by the fire, to increase the trophies of the tribe. To express the horror of the surviving sister, or of Mr. Martin, (whose particular friend had been oie of the victims,) at this dreadful sight, is impo::;slblc. Mr. Martin and his two male com- paaions were next partly stripped, accordii^g to die cnnricc nii7 caprice of those who were near them. The young woman was not toiiclicd, ])orha[)s from respect to the lenialc sex. Mr. Martin\s coat and waistcoat were already [)nlle(l off, and lialf his shirt; when one of the Indians, with an air of authority, o-ave him back liis shirt, ami reproved him who was u:iving it off: he gave him also a blanket, instead / his coat and waistcoat. They provided him vith Indian shoes, made of deer-skins, in exchange m- his own, which, with tlie rest of the clothes, were i(M:d to the booty. The Indians were now about seventy in number, amongst whom were several voinen. Their leader assembled them around the fire, and, holding a tomahawk in his hand, ad- Jressed them in a long si)eech, which he delivered with great fluency, with gestures and a tone of enthusiasm; looking frccjuently up to heaven, or casting his eyes down to the ground; and pointing, now to the prisoners — now to the river. The Indians, who listened to him with the utmost attention, expressed their applause with accents of dcc}> mournful exclamation. The booty was divided among the different tribes which shared in this enterprise. The tribe of the Shawanese received three prisoners, Mr. Martin, the young vonian, and another of the passengers: the other tell 10 the lot of the Cherokees, and was afterwards jurnt by them. Every prisoner was given to the harge of an Indian, ^vho was answerable for his person. i' L. 2^8 person. They were not prevented from the solace of conversing with each other. The two men who had decoyed them on shore now rejoined the Indians, and were severely re- proached by those who had been the wretched victims of their dissimulation. They pleaded that they had been compelled to act so, on pain of death. They said that they had been surprised by the Indians six months before, and had been several times employed on these treacherous expeditions. The stores found on board the vessel served the Indians for their meals, in which they generally allowed the prisoners to partake. Night coming on, every one lay down to rest under the trees. The prisoners were surrounded by the tribes to which they were each allotted, and singly guarded by the Indians who had the charge of them. Mr. Martin was tied by the elbows, and the ends of the ropes were fastened to trees, which stood far asunder, so that it was impossible for him to lie down; yet they did not think this a sufficient security. Another rope fastened to a tree, was tied round his neck, from which a rattle was suspended, that on the least motion would have awakened the whole troop. The rest were treated nearly in the same manner. The two white spies enjoyed the most perfect liberty. Some Indians were stationed on the out- side, to observe what was passing in the surrounding country. The- 2^9 The next morning, the Indians who were posted along the banks of the Ohio, reported that a vessel was droppnig down the river. The prisoners werr> ordered to joiii the other two, who only yesterday beguiled them, in exerting their utmost endeavours tc decoy the passengers in the ship on shore. How powerful IS the fear of instant death !~a punish ment with which they were threatened, in case of refusal or disobedience. They complied, and joined their hardened companions in a crime their souls abhorred. Mr. Martin, however, though compelled for the preservation of his own life, to accompany the rest, firmly determined not to be guilty of occasioning the slavery, or probable death, of the unsuspecting passengers on board, by any volun- tary action; and consequently, neither lo make the smallest gesture, nor to speak a word. Nor was there occasion for his efforts. His companions, less refined in their feelings, exerted themselves to the utmost to excite the compassion of those on board, who, without the least hesitation, stood 111 towards the shore, to succour and rescue from slavery those whom they thought unfortunate captives. Scarcely had they approached within a small distance from the shore, when the Indians, who had stolen along behind the bushes, hastened up, fired, and sliot the six persons on board. Shouts of victory succeeded to the howls of bar- l)arous rage. The vessel was hauled on shore; and two of the ill-fated victims, who- were not quite :: 'i |*'mK*' 230 « quite dead, were immediately dispatched by the tomahawk. The six scalps were torn off and dried and the booty divided as before, but with fewer form ah ties. The scours soon after made signals that throe other vessels were in sight. The same strataoem was attempted, b?it in vain. The passengers were too v/ary to be decoyed out of their course. They were, however, so much panic-struck as to abandon one of their vessels, which was laden with stores and other valuable articles, belonging to several families who had emigrated in company, from Virginia, to settle in Kentucky. This was a rich booty. Without distributmg the whole, the Indians fixed eagerly on some casks of whiskey. They drank so largely, that most of them were soon intoxicated. Six or seven, to whom were com- mitted the charge of guarding the booty, had been ordered, at the beginning of these Bacchanalian revels, to drink with moderation; and thev alone retained the use of their senses. All the rest lay buried in a profound sleep; and among them, the leader of the party and the guards of the prisoners. Mr. Martin's mind was too deeply affected by his dreadful situation to partake of this disgusting banquet. Toially absorbed in reflecting upon the dangers and miseries that threatened him, and anxiously desirous of avoiding thcnj, if possible, he conceived, that whilst the Indians were over- powered by tljc effects of the liquor, he niigrt canti'i^e contrive a means of escape. Tliis idea he com- municated to one of his fellow sufferers, who was lying by his side. The vessels were fastened to stakes along the shore, at a small distance from them. The success of their attempt depended upon their stealing thither unobserved, throwing themselves into the first vessel they should find, (the night being very dark,) and abandoning her to the stream. If they reached the vessel in safety, success seemed as certain, as instant death if they sliould be discovered. The hopes that this scheme had kindled were soon destroyed ; for though they spoke in such a low tone of voice, as seemed hardly possible to have been overheard by an Indian who lay at a considerable distance, if he had had a thorough knowledge of English, yet he arose, and tied them in the same manner as the night before, without show- ing, however, any sign of passion, or even speaking a word. Separated from each other, and convinced that they were closely watched, even in moments when they had imagined themselves to be totally unguarded, they abandoned themselves to the dreadful idea that they were doomed to a state of hopeless misery. The remembrance of all they iiad heard of the cruelty of the Indians towards their prisoners, oppressed them with constant liorror. They expc.'cted to be yielded up to the psscs!: insults, and to suffer a lingering, cruel j death. They considered the Indians, who were lying round them in a state of senseless, brutish intoxication, llJ I* t 232 intoxication, as the instruments of their future tortures. Haunted by these painful ideas, the\ passed the remainder of the night in despair. At break of day the surrounding troop awoke, untied their prisoners, and renewed their revels with the remainder of the whiskey. On the fourth day ,he leader of the band proclaimed his will that the expedition should be ended, and that each tribe should return to their respective homes, which were all situated in the neighbourhood of the Lakes Ontario and Erie. Mr. Martin, his wounded com. panion, and the young woman, had fallen to the lot of the Shawanese. On the first day's journey, Mr. Martin was ordered to lead a cow, which they had taken from on board one of the plundered vessels. The vast booty which formed the share of this tribe, was in part conveyed on horses found in the vessels, and carried by the Indians, who often loaded Mr. Martin with part of their burden. The Shawanese halted in a beautiful vale, where, under straggling trees, about forty horses werej grazing, which in the course of the expedition had been taken from the different travellers, and sent to this spot. The cow was killed the first day, roasted, and devoured: what was not eaten wasj left behind the next morning, when they set out to renew their journey. The chief, with eight or ten Indians, mounted the best horses, and placing the young woman upon one . of! f i':' 233 of them, left the troop, in order to reach their vil- lage before the arrival of the rest. Mr. Martin and his companion were left with the remainder of the troop, to follow more slowly. About twelve the troop halted. The game killed by the huntsmen was dressed; and the time of their halting was frequently determined by the success of the chase. They smoked their pipes before and after dinner, and then set out again to pursue their I journey, until about an hour before night-fall. At this time they stopped to eat their evening meal; then usually smoked a pipe, in profound silence; and afterwards lay down to rest on hides. During the mar-h, some Indians, generally the huntsmen, i formed a kind of van-guard, and others brought up the rear, at some distance, to watch whether the troop was pursued; for the Indians are as mis- trustful as they are vigilant. The main body marched without any regularity. The van-guard seemed charged, in particular, with the care of looking for game; no more of which they killed than was required for the next meal. The women cook the food: having cut it in large pieces, they put it on stakes driven into the ground; but on lighting their fires they are careful not to endanger the neighbouring trees. The prisoners took the advantage of the liberty of keeping constantly together. Their melancholy conversation breathed despair, in consequence of having missed the last favourable opportunity of escape; wwvffisfTY OF mmm library Dl it 1 n m w SS4 escape; though not wliolly unmixed with hope that some unlooked for accident would present them with another. Some mistrust was at length cnteitained at their keeping so close to each other which was increased by Mr. Martin's inadvertently drawing from his pocket a knife, which he had carefully preserved, for the purpose of cuttinrr the ropes with which he was tied at nio>ht, if any favourable opportunity should offer. This occasioned their being again searched, and finally stripped of their breeches, to prevent them from secreting any thing that might facilitate their escape. Instead of the clothes that had been taken from them, they were supplied with short aprons, tied round their hips, and reaching half way down their thighs. But in order effectually to deprive them of the power of concerting measures for re. gaining their liberty, the chief ordered the troop to separate into tu-o divisisions, and one of the two prisoners to accompany each. Fellowship in mis- fortune had endeared lli, la to each other, and the separation was inexpressibly painful to both. Mr. Martin felt that his companion in adversity was his support, his hope, and the only being with whom he could associate; yet he was deprived of this last resource, and for a time ^.iive himself up to grief and apprehension. But a wise man does^'not long remain in this situation. Being blessed with an innate firmness, self-posses,^ Ion, and cheerfulness of temper, he determined to overcome his feelings, and they killed and to the their lengtl chief, and dreams fn journeys. hand, amor Mr. Mar sometimes these occas returned tl: whole troop man, and t treatment w he thought In the CO laden with v who was hi yoncd him I with hope, ilcl preseni 5 at length each other, idvertently ch he had of cuttinir 235 and beguile the mistrust of liis masters by an appearance of serenity. Though the hideous image of a painful death often distressed his mind, he consoled himself with the thought, that not every prisoner is irrevocably doomed by the Indians to suffer death; but that sometimes they employ their captives to assist them in hunting, or adopt them as members of their tribes. The sameness of the remaining journey was not chequered by any remarkable events. The marches me longer or shorter, in proportion to the game they killed, to the duration of their sleep at noon, and to the delight they found in their pipes. But their length especially depended on the will of the chief, and the advice of the conjurors. Their dreams frequently alter the direction of their journeys. Ignorance and superstition go hand in hand, amongst the people of all countries. Mr. Martin was treated very capriciously, anc? sometimes beaten without any cause. On one of these occasions his patience F(fr>ook hir/i^ and he returned the blows, with the at?probn,(;ioi! of the whole troop. They said lie had |}rovc.l Jr^ussfrlf a man, and that none l}ut women submitt- d lo such treatment without opposition. From that time he he thought he was treated with more respect. In the course of their journey tliey met a neo-ro laden with whiskey. He was the slave of an Indiar who was hunting in the woods, and had comnii?> s^ioTicd him. to sell the liquor. Tlie negro soon sold his < I ■!-=■ ^ i ! » • 'A 236 his whole stock, and followed the troop, waiting for his master. The Indians halted soon after, to enjov their whiskey with more ease, and to prepare for their entrance into Sandusky, which was distant but a few days' journey, by touching up their colours; each being at liberty to paint himself according to his fancy, except that they all, men and women, wear a certain mark, the badge of their tribe, on their breast or arms: that of the Shawanese, is a wolf. The troop was soon joined by the negro's master, and shortly after by two other Indians, who took Mr. Martin by the hand, and conducted him to the chief, whom they seemed to address in a suppliant manner. After an hour's conversation, of which Mr. Martin was evidently the subject, and nfter the petitioners had presented two gallons of whiskey, Mr. Martin was presented to them, and carried off. Every ray of hope now vanished: he gave himself up to certain destruction: he dared not, for some time, ask his fate of the negro, who understood English, lest he should betray hini He moved on in silent and secret despair: but being no longer able to support the torturing idea of un! certainty, he at last, with great timidity, applied to the negro, who told him, that one of the two Indians to whom he now belonged, had some time ago killed one of the Mingo tribe, and by their laws he was bound to furnish a person instead of the one he had slain, or be himself surrendered to the vengeance of his family; that, being too poor to buy a prisoner, he 237 he had prevailed on tlie Shawanese, by entreaties and the whiskey, to make him a present of their newly-taken prisoner; and that, therefore, he now belonged to the Mingoes, to whom he would be delivered up in a few days. The prospect of slavery was pleasing, compared with the dread of torture and dcatli, which he had had constantly before his eyes. He journeyed on with his new masters for several days, in the. same manner as with the former, except diat he was not tied at night. Unfortunately, they fell in with the Shawanese again; and the chief, become sober, regretted his former generosity; and being the stronger, from the numbers that accom- panied him, compelled the Mingoes to resign Mr. }[artin to his former misery and anxiety. Some days after they met an Indian driving a horse laden with whiskey, belonging to a tribe residing further to the eastward. The desire of another revel induced the chief to exchange his prisoner for a cask of that intoxicating liquor. He was once more consigned to a new master, who employed him in assisting in the chase; and after hunting some time in the woods, carried him to his town, that bordered on the eastern side of Lake Ontario. Here he had passed several months in captivity, occupied in menial offices, though he was not treated with severity. Having gained the confidence of his masters, by his docility and industry, he had prevailed on them to suffer him to accompany them on a trading expedition to St. John's, in hopes 238 liopes that lie miglit meet with some person who would sympathise with his misfortunes, and re, deem him from the slavery under which he groaned I could not hear this affecting recital witliout at. tempting to deliver him; but he had rendered liim. self so useful to his employers, that, after niajiy proposals that were rejected, I almost despaired of success. At length I prevailed, by the influence of a box of paints, several hundred silver buttons, with other silver trinkets, and two casks of rum. To express the gratitude and satisfaction that were shown by Mr. Mai'tin is impossible. I advanced him a sum of money to enable him to make the best of his way to Philadelphia, where he has relations who are persons of the first respectabihty; and as he appears to be a man of worth, I have no doubt of receiving remittances from him, to reimburse me for what I have expended on his account. The days which afford such opportunities of succouring the distressed, should be reckoned amongst the happiest of our lives. May you enjoy many of them, and suffer none to escape, without tasting the exquisite pleasure they afford. Yours, &c. HENRY FRANKLIN. MV DEA LETTER. ^f50 LETTER XXXir. Arthui' M'lddlelon to his Brother Edwin. MY DEAR EDWIN, ^"'^''• THE country around St. John's is flat, aiul almost destitute of trees, from a dreadful iire which destroyed the woods for miles, and has rendered firing very scarce. We set out from this ])lace in a light waggon, [which carried us through a picturesque country, by the town of Chambly, adorned with a fine old castle, built by the French, to La Prairie, a small place, where we exchanged our vehicle for a bateau, in I which we embarked for Montreal. A bateau is a flat-bottomed boat, with sharp ends, particularly ladaptedto the stormy lakes and rivers of America. Since we left St. John\ the face of things bears quite a different aspect, and it is easy to perceive jthat we have entered a new territory. The British flcig; soldiers on duty; the IVench inhabitants running about in their red night-caps; the children saluting you at the doors; (a custom never observed ill the United States;) the improved appearance of the houses; large Roman Catholic Cliurches and ciiapels; priests in their robes; nuns; friars; large pvooden crucifixes by the road side; and, above all, a universal ■!■■ ! i? 'MO a universal change of language from English to French. In order to account for these alterations I must tell you, that Canada belonged to the French, till it was ceded by treaty to the Knglisli in 1763; and it is still chiefly inhabited by people of French extraction, who are allowed the exercise of the Catholic religion. Montreal is the capital of Lower Canada. It is built upon an island of the same name, in the river St. Lawrence, and is surrounded with walls, thoiigh the suburbs extend far beyond them. The build. ings within the walls are composed of a compaet, dark-coloured limestone, which whitens in the fire, and becomes greyish when exposed to the air a sun : those in the suburbs are chiefly wood. The I lower part of the town, where most of the shops are I situated, has a gloomy aspect, especially towards evening, when the doors and windows are regular. I ly shut up with sheet-iron shutters, a precaution used against f^re. This accident has so often been attended here with dreadful consequences, tliat the inhabitants who can afford it, cover the roofs | of their houses with tin plates, instead of shingles, The streets are narrow, but there are two opcnl squares; and the town is embellished with several churches i,ad convents. The cathedral is a spacious edifice, and has five richly-decorated altars: the doors are always open, and numbers of people frequent it to pay their private devotions, when there is no public worship performed. One Sunday! that 241 Ikt wc attended the celebration of high mo,s, the crowd was so great, that the stops on. he ouU « e covered w.th people, «ho continued k.,eelinl .u..e,r hats off, during the service. It h„p; 3 a hero was a gran.l funeral at this chu ^ at I ''' '""-• "' ""'■ ^'"y '" "'e town. A „u„,be oj -^''yiiu,eho,si„wh.. .irr;;- f TT "'"";■""' '■"'■ "" "''"- -''"i""^ can r-i to pay for ,ho,n. The inhabitants arc vcly, ,x>h,e, and sociable, and live in such hnnony, .h„, you would sup,x.se they were al hcd The Island of Montreal is t^Uy e g^ pes long: on tt are several fountains. The oot ol the largest of them is encircled with neat onntry houses and pretty gardens; and its sides fcre covered wuh lofty trees. Prom this place « »o .g,ous extent of country bursts upon the Ut, wuh the noble river St. Lawrence windinl rough. On one side flows the river smoothly on" fter passmg down the tremendous rapids above' lo town, where it is hurried, with a noisolike »nder, over huge rocks. On the opposite side ;een the town, with its churches, monasteries |to'ng spires, and the .hippbg „„der it. ruined Mr. Franklin having formed the resolution of n '' "'"'''' "' ^"'^''' ^«1 the aiuumn »g pretty Much advanced, wc again embarked *■ on ih 242 on board a bateau, covered with an awning stretched over hoops, and sailed down the river St. Lawrence. For several leagues below Montreal, the houses arc so numerous, that it appears like a continued village. These buildings are remarkably neat ; and in each hamlet, be it ever so small, there is a church: the spires arc generally covered with tin, .which, sparkling in the sun, has a pretty effect through the trees. Sorelle is a town standing at the mouth of the river of the same name, which runs from Lake Champlain into the St. Lawrence. This townuasj to have been built upon a very extensive scale; but instead of that, it now consists of a few indiff'eren;, straggling houses. It is principally inhnbited by subjects of the United States, who, being attached to the British government, fled hither when the Americans became independent: they are chieflyl employed in ship-building. A little beyond SorelleJ the river expands to a great breadth, and is so thickly sprinkled with small islands, that it astonishing how large vessels can pass between them. This wide part is called the Lac St. Pierrej It afterwards narrows, and is nowhere more thaij two miles across before it reaches Quebec. Thij city, where we have taken up our residence foj two or three months, is situated on a very loftj point of land, at the confluence of the rivers Sj Lawrence and St. Charles. It is built on a rocl of limestone, and is divided into the upper aiij lower town; the latter stands close to the wateij ani S13 and the former on rocks, so steep that they are absolutely maecessible. Thus it is strongly fo«ified by nature and art, the side towards the land being defended by stupendous works. The lower town ,, a d,rtj confined, disagreeable place, chiefly m abued by traders concerned in the shipping The elevated situation of the upper town renders It healthy and pleasant, though the streets are narrow and irregular. It is the residence of the governor gentry, and principal merchants. Most of the ousesare very high, and built with stone. The liouse the governor inhabits is called the chateau It stands m an open place, on the edge of a precipice lat can only be ascended by birds. In fine weather during summer, one of the regiments belonging lothe garrison parades in this square, and the band plays to serenade tfee gentry, who make it a public .alk. Opposite to the chateau is a Franciscan monastery, and near it the Jesuits' college. There are also several nunneries; and being a garrison lown, large barracks, and an armory furnished with ten thousand stand of arms, fancifully dis. I posed, hke those in the Tower of London. We have taken our abode in the upper town of Quebec, which overlooks the most grand and elightful scenery imaginable. As soon as I rise i throw up my window, and cast n.v eye over stupendous rocks, immense rivers, \ariegated fests, cultivated plains, mountains, lakes, towns, Ivillages, and shipping; forming at once a rich ure of nature and art. The loftiest -M 2 part of the rock. S44 111 rock, on which the upper town is built, is called Cape Diamond, because spars of a brilliant quality are found in its cavities. This elevated precipice rises one thousand feet above the level of the river; you need not be surprised, therefore, that the prospect from it is sublime and extensive. Mr. Franklin's taste differs from mine : he prefers the view from a point not quite so high, because he thinks the objects are not seen clearly, from the prodigious distance between them and the spec- tator. I often visit, with enthusiasm, the spot marked by a large stone, where General Wolfe expired, just as he heard the news that his troops had gained the victory, and got Quebec into their possession; an achievement that few, possessed of less magnanimity and skill, would have dared to undertake, and m which still fewer would have succeeded. The market people carry their goods in little carts, drawn by dogs, that resemble the Newfoundland breed, and are wonderfully sagacious and tractable. I have already had several rides in a cariole, or sledge, drawn by half a dozen of them yoked together; and journeys are often performed in this manner. In a few weeks you shall hear from me, with a further account of this country. In the mean time, believe that I am always, affection- ately, Yours, Arth fiEARES' bled me to the raanne liave made is necessar;y sessions in and Lower Scotia. Tl I deputed by I houses of \ j elective: th I of Lords, t [l^pper Cana [Detroit, Nia The defei inhabitants, pftcen to fift pile public of JkKA.^' -a. JLj. ^' JLv -ITS B gyg^ggjfl jL -^./x^' S — *-- LETTER. S45 I: LETTER XXXIII. Arthw Middleton to his Brother Edxvhu J)EAREST EDWIN, ^Toutreal OUR stay here, and at Quebec, has ena. led me to collect many particulars of Canada, and the manners of its inhabitants; especially as we have made several excursions from the town It IS necessary you should know that the British pos sessions in North America are divided into Upper land Lower Canada, New Brunswick, and Nova coua The two first are governed by a viceroy, eputed by the king of Great Britain; and two houses of legislature, one hereditary, the other elective: the former corresponding to our House Lords, the latter to our House of Commons. %er Canada is divided into the four districts of Detroit, Niagara, Kingstone, and St. JohnV The defence of the country is intrusted to the inhabitants, every male being a militia-man, from fteen to fifty, except those who are employed in the public offices of government; and the Quakers, jthe Bunkers, and the Baptists, whose religious principles : . ; |i i: *• " ,;, I i'.l *..;: 246 principles forbid them to follow the profession of a soldier, who are fined a sum of money, in lieu of the service that would otherwise be required of them. Every religion is tolerated. The Roman Catholic prevails most: though government favours that of the church of England. Servants are extremely scarce, as most of those who come from Europe obtain lands, and so be. come farmers; therefore the regulation that gives freedom to all negroes the moment they arrive in Canada, is as wise as it is humane. Lower Canada is very productive in small grain, small fruits, and garden vegetables of every de- scription. Currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and grapes, grow wild. The raspberries are particularly fine, and abound in the woods; but the grapes re- quire the gardener's care to bring them to perfec- tion. Tobacco also thrives well; and that grown ini this country is esteemed for its peculiar mildness, The variety of trees in the forests of Canada is sur- prising, and highly pleasing to an admirer of the I works of creation; there being oaks, elms, ashes, pines, sycamores, chesnuts, walnuts, of each several species, besides others not so well known. The sugar maple grows in all parts of the country, and is a very useful tree: as not only sugar may be matlel from it, but vinegar, tabic beer, and an excellentl spirit. The country people pierce these trees witlil an augur, and put a vessel beneath, to catch tliel sapl sance to il 247 sap as It falls, which they refine by boiling till It is converted into sugar; and a sufficient quantity is procured to nearly supply the inhabitants, who seldom use any other. Manufactures not being yet arrived at great per- fection, the imports from Europe chiefly consist in earthenware, hardware, the more elegant articles of liOLisehoid furniture, stationery, leather, grocery, wines, and spirits: in return for these things, the Canadians export furs in immense quantities, wheat, flour, flax-seed, pot-ash, timber, staves, and him! ber, dried fish, oil, ginseng, and various medicinal drugs. A considerable portion of the lands in Lower Canada is in the possession of seigniors, who may be compared to thriving farmers in England; but the peasants who cultivate their estates are their vassals, and, in many respects, are dependent upon them. When the country was yielded to the English, it was agreed that the Roman Catholic religion should contmue to be the profession of the people at large; consequently, convents, nuns, and friars, with the other peculiarities of a catholic country, are to be seen here in all their formalities; amongst others, huge wooden crucifixes are common by the .oad side, some of them richly ornamented and painted. The superstitious people call them Bons Dieux, and pull off their hats and make a reverend obei- sance to thp«P r»nofc of ,.,U:^l, T . /» 1 smiHn ■g; ft ':''Hi r f \ :r -.# y ■ Ill' »f (■ 248 smiling; though my good friend reproves me for it by saying that I ought to respect the intention of the most absurd act of devotion, and pity the ignorance of the devotee. The female French peasants are generally very pretty; and their beauty is improved by the taste- fulness of their summer dress. Most of them wear a boddice of blue or scarlet, without sleeves, a petticoat of a different colour, and a straw hat. They look old early, which is attributed to their working too hard, their husbands leaving many fatiguing employments to them. But to make them amends, they are persons of great consequence in the family; for a Canadian never makes a bargain without consulting his wife. This probably arises from the superior learning of the women, as they are better taught than the men, who seldom are able to read or write. Both sexes are generally very cheerful, and are fond of dancinff and sinirino'. which are favourite amusements, even amoncTst the lower classes. I believe that the men are the most dexterous managers of bateaux in the world, in rapid rivers. But for our confidence in the skill of the boatmen, we should have given ourselves up at the strong current that hurried us through the midst of large rocks with precipitate violence, just as we approached Montreal. We seemed every moment on the point of being dashed to pieces. They, however, brought us safe over. The canoes that are used in the river St, Lawrence are 249 are curiously constructed of the bark of the birch- tree, which grows to a very largo size in the more northern part of the country. This bark resembles that of the cork-tree, and is so flexible, it may be rolled up like a piece of cloth; so that the Indians, when they go a hunting, provide themselves with some of it, to make a covering for a temporary hut. The canoes are formed with ribs made of thick, tough rods, covered with this bark, and are of different sizes; some of them holding one man only, and others twenty. Unless people are used to these frail vessels, they are easily overset; for they are so light, that two men are not overloaded by carrying one, of a moderate size, on their shoulders; and so swift, that they leave the best keel-boat behind them. The most common carriage in Lower Canada is a calash, whicli is a sort of one-horse chaise, that holds two people besides the driver, who sits on a box placed over the foot-board. On each side of the carriage is a little door, which serves as an entrance, and, when shut, is convenient to prevent any thing from falling out. The harness is clumsy, studded with brass nails, and decorated with small bells, that make a most disagreeable jingle. Durino* the severe frosts, sledges are frequently used, and form a favourite diversion. They are of two kinds, covered and open: the covered sledge is like the body of a chariot, covered all over with fur, and put upon two iron runners, shaped like a pair of iii M 5 skates: %-^ m '■k ■ '^' '* IJ r'fe. 250 skates; the open sledge varies in shape, according to tlie state of the owner, and is often very hand- somely decorated. Those helonging to the gentry are drawn by one or two horses, placed like those in a tandem ; and the ladies who ride in them are generally dressed superbly, in the most valuable furs. These sledges glide over the snow with such swiftness and so little noise, that, to prevent acci. dents, they are obliged to give notice of their approach, by bells attached to the harness, or by a horn sounded before them. Though the cold is so intense, I do not suffer more from it than I did in England ; for when I (tq abroad I am covered from head to foot with fiir. My cap is so contrived that nothing but my eyes and nose is to be seen ; and every part of our house is warmed with stoves. Our doors and windows are double; so that no cold air can enter to incom- mode us. The heat and cold are both felt in the extreme in Canada ; but the climate is not subject to such sudden changes, in the same day, as in .he United States. The snow generally begins to fall in November, when it is disagreeably cold and raw, and the sky is dark and lowering: by the middle of December the sky clears, and the frost sets in; and for six weeks there is seldom any alteration. This is the season of gaiety and pleasure, as we have most agreeably experienced. Music, dancing, skating, and social parties, enliven every day, and make us disregard the cold and the snow. During this 251 this long frost, wc returned in a sledge to Montreal. We were three days on the road; but we werJ wrapped in our fur pelisses, and defied the rigours of the northern sky. The weather was remarkably clear, the roads as hard as a rock, and the frost on the trees glittered like a forest of diamonds. We glided as swift as an arrow, and on our anival were welcomed by our friends, with that warmth of heart and sociability that renders every place charn)ing. In this pleasing society we have passed the winter; but a rapid change, that has within a few days taken place, warns us that our departure is not very distant. The snow has disappeared; the fields, clothed with the richest verdure, bear the appearance of spring; and the trees already display a beautiful foliage of rich tints. Montreal is the grand mart for the fur-trade; the skins of various animals, collected by the Indians, being brought thither from a vast distance, along rivers and lakes, and then are transported to Europe. I have bespoke a fine black bear- skin, to make a muff for my mother, which I hope she will wear for my sake. The skins of beavers, otters, martins, and wild cats, are called fine peltry; but those cargoes are termed mixed peltry, when, with the finer sorts, are packed wolves, foxes, buffaloes, deer, and bears. One of our rides was to the river Montmorenci, that unites with the St. Lawrence, about seven miles below Quebec. The country through which it r IM. U ^ 4K'fM 252 it passes is wild, and thickly wooded; and its course lies over a bed of broken rocks, till it comes to the brink of a precipice, down which it descends in one uninterrupted fall of two hundred and forty feet: the water secws to reach the bottom slowly, and has the appearance of snow, as it is received in a natural basin of rock; and the spray, when the sun shines, reflects the most vivid tints. The cataract of La Chandeere ha.i a very difrereiu aspect, but is not less beautiful. It is not half the height of that of Montmorenci, but it is two hundred and fifty feet wide; and the banks are covered with the grandest forest-trees, and form, amidst the piles of broken rocks that lie scattered around, some of the most romantic views imaginable. My letter is already too long, yet it will not be complete, unless I add a few particulars of our journey from Quebec to Montreal. At the first post-house, our driver, with his hair in a queue, bound up with an eel-skin, announced our arrival by a loud crack of his whip, which brought out the post-master and all his family to the door, to welcome us. The old lady was very stylish, in a close French cap. She gave us a good breakfast, of which we stood greatly in need. The road runs mostly along the banks of the St. Lawrence, pre- senting th same views of neat little towns and villages, we so much admired from the water, in our passage to Quebec. la the first forty miles wo were often gratified with prospects of great sub- Aimitv 253 lenity. In some places ti.e immense river, like a aU. confined between ranges of mo.,„,„i„,, ...^J .0 roll .nulerour feet; and the largest .nerehantnKn, as e looked down fro„, „,e steep banks, appeared no b.gger than fishing-boats. We took refros , nicntata town called Trois Ilivi^res, iron, hs s..uafon on the shore of the St. T.awrenee, close to . n>o,.th o. the river St. Maurice, tl,; largest of thn-ty rtvers that fall into the St. l.awrence^n ;r ;"""-;?. -'^^ "'o-- '"--tween Quebec Lnd Monuca . Th,s nver is divided into three stream, ■mglity St. Lawrence. The town is not Jaro-e- u,e streets :n-e narrow, and many of the houses are' "only of wood: bu^ we were so well amused . the convent of St. Ursule, that we disregarded he meanness of the town. We first entered the jel, tl. doors of which open to the street, ; ".'■' P"'-'''; It '^ ^'-y lofty, but not extensive p|.p«sue ,o the entrance is the altar, which is \'My ornamented; on each side of it is a lattice. the one ieadmg to ar apartment altetted for sick "iins, the other connreted w,th the chceur of the *pel. Here we were desired to ring a bell [pon .Ins the curtain with ., the lattice was drawn ;f' ""'' '"« discovered ..n apartment surrounded ™h n„ns, and furnished with an alt, ■, near which Inoeled several nuns, dressed in black stuiF gowns M. wh,te handkerchiefs spread over their shoul- p, and drawn close up to the throat: to these were 254 p were joined a kind of hood of white linen, that covers lialf the forehead, the temples, and cars. Each of them had, besides, a flowing veil of black gauze; and a silver cross hung from the breast. The works of these sisters, in birch bark, cmbroi. dered with elk hair, dyed of the most brilliant colours, are very ingenious: of these materials they make pocket-books, work-bags, dressing-boxes, models of Indian canoes, and a variety of the warlike weapons used by the Indians. Stransn the celcbrate.l Falls of Niagara, we took a different course, and agreed to meetlhe,, Z Wdhmaekinack We accordingly embarked t CI, ne, a small, pleasant village, about nine miles h'g .or up on the island, to avoul the strong rapids I J^s above Montreal. Here are very extensile stLe! 0U.0., belonging to the king of England, where the presents for the Indians are deposited. On the opposite side of the river stands the village of the Cockenonaga Indians, chiefly consisting of a few log-houses. 256 loo'-houses, and a Roman Catholic church, gaily adorned with pictures, lamps, and other finery, to attract the attention of these pco})le. When the wind was favourable, we used our sails; when otherwise, the boatmen were obliged to take to their oars; a labour tliat tliey always ciieer widi a song, in which every man of them joins, whether his voice be melodious or not. A strong current, at times, obliged them to keep as close as possible to the shore, and push the bateau along with light poles, headed with iron. They are often obliged to rest from this exertion, when they seldom fall to fill their pipes, which they kjep constantly in their mouths ; for a French Canadian without it, is a rare sight. On one part of the river, called the Lake of St. Louis, our vessels were covered with swarms of little white insects, rather larger than a gnat, but of such a delicate texture, that they crumble to powder with a touch. We passed the first night on a small island named Perot, at the mouth of the Uiawas river. Here I enjoyed a novel scene. After our boatmen had secured the little fleet of bateaux, they divided themselves into small parties, and kindled fires along the shore, that they might cook their victuals for the next day, and keep themselves warm during the night. These men are so liardy, that in fine weather they sleep on the bare grass, with no other covering than a short blanket; and when it is stormy they shelter themselves with a sail or a blanket, spread against the S57 the wind, over a few poles stuck into the ground. I envied their independence, and tried one night to imitate it, but I got a trimming cold. The next day we crossed the Utawas, in order to gain the mouth of the south-west branch of the'' St Lawrence. The river at this place rushes down into the lake over immense rocks, with such im- petuosity, and the breakers run so liigh, that I fully expected our bateaux would be overset, or filled with water. The dexterity of our boatmen, how. ever, got us safe through these rapids, as they are properly named, for boats are carried down the stream at the rate of fifteen miles an hour. Ascend. iiig the stream was, on the contrary, so tedious, that our party were put on shore, determining to proceed on foot, till the bateaux had passed this difficult navigation. We got a comfortable dinner m the English style, at a neat tavern, kept by an English woman, in the pretty village of the Hill of Cedars. This evening the bateaux were drawn up for the night, at the foot of the hill of the lake, and ne pitched our tent on the edge of a wood, at a littlo ^listance from the river. I was fatigued, and slept as soundly as if I had been on a bed of down. The next morning we entered the Lake St. Francis, about twenty.five miles long ; and landed on the Isle aux Raisins, named so from the abundance of ^vikl vines that grow upon it. The Indians, who possess it, were very friendly, and sold us some "i'(l duck« and fresh-caugbt fish, for a trifle. Night iTTi* Mt ; :!^ 1 258 Night after night we passed much in the same manner, under the shelter of our tent, which did not secure us from the effects of a dreadful hurri. cane, attended with torrents of rain that drenched us to the skin. Some of our friends were excellent shots r when we went on shore to avoid the rapids, of which we parsed several, they mostly carried their guns, and killod a number of wood-pigeons, except hem smaller, very much like those we have in England. Having passed the last rapid below the mouth of the Oswegatchee, the most considerable of those rivers within the territory that falls into the St. Lawrence, the current became gentle, and we entered the Lake of ii Thousand Islands. The multiplicity of small islets that cover its surface gives it this name. Thev \ iry in size, from several miles round to a spot not bigger than our boat. All of them are covered with wood; and many of them are guarded by rorks, and crags of fantastic shapes, that rise to a con- siderable height above the water. Nothing can exceed the beauty and variety of| prospects this lake affords. In some parts, our bateaux seemed to be hemmed in by islands, whose rich foliage hung over the water. Between the trees were the hunting enca.^ments of the Indians, when, on a sudden, a narrow passage led us into the open| lake. After enjoying these ever-changing views, wo were landed at Kingston, a garrison town of great 3tsr when which we ?uns, and L^pt being England, uth of the ose rivers -^awrence, the Lake ^ of small ne. Thev I spot not ered with by rooks, to a con- !l?59 great trade, situated at the mouth of a deep bay, at the north-eastern extremity of Lake Ontario! Before I proceed, T must entreat you to cast your eye on the map, and trace the course of the mighty St. Lawrence. At its mouth, it is ninety miles Wide; and it is navigable, for ships of the line, as far as Quebec, a distance of four hundred miles from the sea. If we consider that immense body of water that flows from Lake Winnipic, through the Lake of the Woods, Lake Superior, Erte, Huron, and Ontario, down to the sea, as one continued stream, it must excite our wonder and admiration. After introducing to your attention an object so sublime and noble, which must naturally raise your mind to the omnipotence of its great Author, I shall conclude; as all common topics must, after this^ appear trifling and insignificant. Adieu, my dear brother. Yours, &c. ARTHUE MIDDLETON. \g views, j town of I great I LETTER . s. 260 LETTER XXXV. Arthur Middleton to his Brother Edwin. Niagara. MY DEAR EDWIN, WE took a few days' rest at Kingston: the ground near the city rises with a gentle swell, and forms, near the lake, a sort of amphitheatre of lands, cleared, but not yet cultivated. A few of the houses are built of stone and brick, but the generality are only of wood. The barracks are a stone edifice, surrounded with palisadoes. Kino-. ston is a kind of mart for the goods brought up the St. Lawrence, for the supply of the upper country: here they are deposited in stores, (the American name for warehouses,) till they can be exported across the lakes. A great number of furs also are collected in this town from the country beyond the lakes; and some are brought in by the Indians who hunt in the neighbourhood. Having taken a full survey of this town, Mr. Franklin bargained with the captain of a large vessel bound for Niagara, for the use of the cabin; and, on the signal of a fair wind, we embarked for crossing Lake Ontario, the most easterly of the four lakes, through which the boundary line passes, tjiat 261 that separates the United States from the province of Upper Canada. It is two hundred and twenty ,n,les in length, and, in the broadest part, seventy wide. Our voyage was exactly the same as if we had been on the ocean, for the shores bein^ grncally flat and sandy, we were n:ost!y out of sight of land; and this lake being W. subject to |stonns than the others that are near it, the passage jwascahn and prosperous. As we approached the town of Niagara, often called Newach, we admired tlie handsome appearaiice of the fort. Here we were put ashore, and soon entered the town, which h one of the piincipal of Upper Canada, and the centre of the gentility of the province. The housed for the common people are mostly of wood, but those designed for the residence of the officers of government are very handsome buildings. It stands on the western bank of the river of the same name, in a very pleasant situation; but it IS miserably unhealthy, the inhabitants being very subject to the ague, as I have unfortunately experienced during the last three days. I have bd two violent fits of it. I am now swallow. jmg doses of bark every two hours, in hopes of preventing a return of it. Agues and intermittent^ are very prevalent in many part, of America, par- ticularly where the land has been lately cleared of wood; which is attributed to the vapours that jnse from the earth when first turned up, which jiias never before been cultivated. I hone I shall soon if <, :■*•■ 262 soon recover my health, as in many of our wan. derings I am obliged to fast as wjil as feast, and have no opportunity for indulgence. Though there is no regular market at this place, we fare well : yesterday we had a haunch of venison with salmon for dinner ; both purchased from an Indian, who gladly exchanged them for a bottle of rum and a loaf of bread. Lake Ontario, and all the rivers that fall into it, abound with excellent salmon, and many different kinds of salt-water fish, which come up the river St. Lawrence; as well as a great variety of those kinds that live in fresh water, itw own natural inhabitants. The Indians, %hose chief occupation, besides war, is fishing and hunting, have a curious method of taking the fish in this lake. Two men go at night on these] expeditions, in a canoe: the one sits in the stern,! and paddles the boat along ; and the other stands with a spear in his hand, over a flambeau placed in the head of the canoe. The light attracts the fish; l they crowd on all sides of the canoe; and the spearsman, accustomed to the business, strikes them with such dexterity, that he seldom misses his aim. The day and hour being fixed for our visit to I the famous falls, we mounted our horses early, and set out on our expedition. I must confess, my im- patience was so great I was often ready to leave the! company and advance before them. Though goodl manners restrained me from this indulgence to niy| 0\W1 263 own feelings, my attention was entirely engrossed with walching for the first glimpse of the white column of mist that rises over the cataract, and hstennig to the roar of the impetuous torrent; but I could perceive neither, till we approached with- in a mile of the place, though Captain Joddrel, a gentleman in our company, assured us that he liad Inmself heard the tremendous sound, at the distance of forty miles, and seen the white cloud hovering in the air, still further off. These circum. stances depend upon the state of the atmosphere, which at this time was unfavourable to our wishes! At length we attained the point so earnestly desired! the grand spectacle appeared before us in all its majesty. The river, closely hemmed in by the rocks on the right, encroaching upon its channel, branches into two arms; one of which flows along the bank formed by these rocks; and the other arm, which is by far the most considerable, being separated by a small island, runs straight on to the left, and sweeps through a capacious natural basin of stone, which it fills with much foam and noise. Its course being obstructed by other rocks, it makes a turn, and with redoubled violence meets the other branch : and their united force rushes down a perpendicular ledge of rocks, one hundred and sixty feet high, partly hollowed out by the incessant impetuosity of the falling current. Its width is nearly equal to that of the channel of the river, the uniformity of which is only in- terrupted I ^64 terrupted by the island I mentioned before, which separates the two arms, rests unshaken on its rocky basis, and seems, as it were, to swim between the two streams, which rush at once into this stupendous chasm. Picture to yourself what a mighty torrent that must be which proceeds from the united waters of the Lakes Erie, Michigan, St. Clair, Huron, and Superior, and the numerous rivers that empty themselves into these lakes, and you will form some faint idea of the vast body of waters that incessantly supplies this astonishing cataract, which tumbles down perpendicularly on the rocks. The colour of the water is at times a dark green, at others a foaming white; brilliant in all parts and displaying a thousand hues, according to the effects of the rays of the sun, the time of day, the state of the air, the force of the wind, and the colour of the sky. The water that reaches the bottom, obstructed in its fall by fragments of rock, is in violent agitation, continually spouting, and foaming, and throwing on shore logs of wood, bodies of trees, boats, and wrecks, which the stream has swept away in its course. The noise, agitation, irregularity, and rapid descent of the stream, continues seven or eight miles; nor can the river be safely passed in a boat till it reaches Queenstown, nine miles from the falls.— But to proceed. Captain Joddrel, who is well acquaint- ed with every part of these stupendous falls, led us first to the brink of a deep, hollow place, surrounded will 265 with large trees, from the bottom of which rise thick volumes of whitish mist, resembling the smoke of burning weeds. Here we followed him down a steep bank, for fifty yards, which led us to a marshy piece of ground covered with bushes; thence he conducted us to the Table Rock, which stands to the front of the great fa!!, and rises forty feet above it. How shall I express my sensations when arrived at this spot ! For some time I was lost in wonder- but collecting my thoughts, the sublime images before me excited a sort of devotional awe, and raised emotions of adoration to that Infinite Power, by whom the mighty torrent was created. Mr. Franklin felt the same impressions; nor was he asliamed to confess them before all the company. From this I point we enjoyed an uninterrupted view of the tremendous rapids above the falls; and of the surrounding shores, covered with thick woods, composed of trees of various shades. A few yards below our feet rolled the Horse-shoe Fall, dashing Its waters with frightful impetuosity: at a dis- tance, on our left hand, we beheld the fall of Foot Schloper; and if we got courage to cast our eyes beneath, we looked perpendicularly down into the frightful gulph, agitated by the tremendous whirl- pool occasioned by the tumbling cataract. Here ke remained some hours; for how could we bid ladieu, for the last time, to such a spectacle ? The day was far spent; hunger and fatigue induced us |to return to an indifferent tavern in the neighbour. |#^^ '!•# 9m hood, determined to repair again to the falls, at an 6arly hour next morning, when our friendly guide took us to anolher {)oint of view, whence we had a most beautiful and sublime prospect of the whole cataract at once. After which, wiih inexpres.sible fatigue, danger, and difficulty, we scrambled to the bottom of the cataract, by means of perpendicular Steps cut out of trees, caverns, and projectinff rocks, the scattered fragments of which warned us to take heed to our steps. When we reached the bottom, anew and rwful scene was presented before us: huge piles of misshapen rocks, overgrown with pines and cedars, projected from the cliiF over our heads, and seemed to threaten us with instant de. struction. Many of the large trees grow with their heads downwards, being suspended by the roots, from the crags which had given way. Having reached the margin of the river, we proceeded along the strand, towards the Great Fall. Here we saw vast numbers of dead bodies of different animals, thrown to the surface of the water ;— -fishes, squirrels, foxes, & . that had been carried away by the violence of the current above the falls, and precipitated into the gulph beneath. Birds of prey hover on the shore, and feast on these carcasses. With cautious steps we followed i our conductor over rugged crags, made slippery by the continual moisture from the spray; some, times we were obliged to creep on hands and knees, through long, dark holes, where there are passages • between! ir'liilr-"!ih,.^ alls, at an idly guide we had a the whole xpressible lied to the H'ndicular projecting earned us ached the ted before mwn with over our nstant de. with their the roots, river, we he Great Eld bodies ice of the had been ent above I beneath. feast oni followed slippery | y; some- nd kneesj j passages between I f6r between the torn-up rocks and trees; at las^ we apf>roached the v.ry foot of the Great Fall, which rushes like a wat.T-spout from the edge of a pro jectmg rock Behind it are large, hollow caverns," worn away by the continual force of the waters! Emboldened, as I became familiarized with the scene 1 ventured behind this amazing sheet of water but I vvas near paying Tor my rashness with my life' the whirlwind that always rages at the bottom of the cataract, deprived me of breath. I was stunned with the tremendous roar, and was on the point of falhng senseless into the awful chasm, when Mr Frankhn, with great resolution and presence of mind, made one instantaneous effort to snatch me from the threatened destruction, and fortunately succeeded m catching hold of the ifap of my coat, by which he dragged me from my situation. I was 8cmie time before I came to myself. This happy escape will teach me not to expose myself so carL lessly in future. I was tolerably recovered by half a glass of brandy; though I could not divest myself, the whole day, from a degree of horror, as if I was still falhng into the gulph. At ^he bottom of the Horse-shoe Fall we observed a white substance adhering to the rocks, exactly like froth petrified. I put several pieces of it into my pocket, to add to our collection of natural curiosities. Neither the cataract nor the river above it, are frozen in the severest winters; but as the lakes that contribute meir waters to it are, enormous flnl^^e ^f : . N% constantlj IMAGE EVALUAYJON TEST TARGET (MT.3) m A './ V #? ^ M :/. C/x (/f. M 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■ so ™^= M ||M 1.8 lA mil 1.6 riiumgidpiiXL; Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 J\ iV \\ ^v ^'^^^<> W\^ o S68 constantly down the falls, when the thaw sets in, and are piled at the bottom to a great height, in huge irregular masses, resembling the colunms of a palace; which must greatly add to the grandeur of the scene, particularly when the sun shining on them reflects a thousand colours, and causes them to glitter like diamonds. Having brought some refreshments in a basket, we did not think of ascending the cliff lill the sun was going down, when we had the unex- pected gratification of beholding one of the most perfect and brilliant rainbows displayed in the spray that was rising from the fall. The river from which this sublime cataract takes its name, connects the two lakes, Erie and Ontario, together, by a course of thirty-six miles, which it runs partly over a bed of rocks between them. Being extremely exhausted by the fatigues of the day, and our minds deeply impressed by the stu- pendous objects we had being viewing, we retired to rest, full of the most sublime ideas of the power, wisdom, and goodness of the Deity. — Adieu. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER an hund highest t; upon whi( are seven body is bl they carr inhabitant power to e watched t their eyes except tui 269 LETTER XXXVI. Arthur Middleton to his Sisters, Catherine and Louisa, „^ Fort Erie. MY DEAR SISTERS, WHILST we remained in the neighbourhood of the falls, we made several pleasant excursions through different parts of the adjacent country; and as we had fine weather, enjoyed the wild, romantic prospects, afforded by the variety of mountains, valleys, and woods. In our walks, we met with many large snakes, of different sorts: some were basking in the sun, displaying their variegated colours, and twisting themselves into an hundred elegant forms; others climbing the highest trees, in pursuit of birds and squirrels, upon which they principally feed. These climbers are several feet long, and the upper part of the body is black and scaly. Wherever they appear, they carry terror with them; even to the winged inhabitants of high trees, who seem to have no power to escape from their devouring jaws. I have watched them several times: after they have fixed their eyes on an animal, they become motionless, except turning their head sometimes to the rigjjt, and ■J.* : S70 and sometimes to the left, but still keep their eye invariably directed to the object. The distracted victim, conscious of its danger, instead of flying from its enemy, seems to be held by some invincible power; it screams, draws nigh, then goes to a little distance, and after skipping about with unac countable agitation, actually rushes into the jaws of the snake, who swallows it up, after having covered it with a slimy glue, to mrike it slide more easily down his throat. In one of our rambles we were struck by a strange sort of rustling noise; and, on examining whence it proceeded, we beheld two large sjiakes, one pursuing the other across the field. The pursuer was a black snake, and the runaway a water-snake. These soon met, and, in the fury of their first encounter, were in an instant firmly twisted together; and whilst their united tails beat the ground, they tried with open jaws to wound each other. How malignant they looked! Their heads were diminished to a small size ; their eyes seemed to flash fire. After they had struggled thus for five minutes, the water-snake disengaged himself from its enemy, and hurried towards the ditch. Its antagonist instantly assumed a new posture; and, half-creeping, half-erect, like some proud warrior sure of victory, overtook and at- tacked the other again, which placed itself in the same attitude, and prepared to resist. My curiosity was uncommonly excited Ly this extraordinary battle. Thus opposed, they fought with their iavvs S71 jaws, biting each other with the utmost rage. Whether from a consciousness of inferior strength, or the confidence of security in his natural element^ the water-snake still seemed desirous of retreating towards the ditch. The keen-eyed black one no sooner perceived his drift, than, twisting his taU mce round the stalk of a strong shrub, he seized iiis adversary by the throat, not by his jaws, but by twisting his own neck round that of the water- snake, and so prevented him from reaching the ditch. The latter, to guard against a defeat, likewise fastened himself to a stalk on the bank, and by that means became a match for its fierce antagonist. Thus twisted together, and stretched at their full length, they pulled against each other; and when they exerted themselves the most, that part of their bodies which was entwined looked extremely small, whilst the other appeared swelled, and convulsed with strong writhings and turnings: their eyes looked on fire, and ready to start out'^of their heads. Victory was long doubtful, till at last the stalk, by which the water-snake held, gave way, and down they both plunged into the dkch. Some of our companions are very expert in shooting, hunting, and sporting of every kind. When they go out with the gun, I generally jom the party. Sometimes we shoot wood-pigeons, or hunt squirrels. In the midst of these wilds wc saw many parties of the Lewka Indians, who were amusing themselves in killing squirrels with the blow- r-k^. ! I l»i: m 27S blow-gun. The first time I saw an arrow trans fixed through the head of a large black squirrel, by one of these instruments, it seemed like magic' for I did not hear the slightest noise, nor did I gee the arrow pass, so swiftly did it fly. AH I perceived was an Indian put a small tube to his mouth, and fix his eye on the squirrel, and in an instant the poor animal fell lifeless to the ground. Determined to know the secret, I soon made acquaintance with the Indian; and in answer to my enquiry, how he killed the squirrel? he gave me a nawow tube, about six feet long, made of a cane-reed. I examined it carefully, but could not perceive its power of destruction, till the Indian took it from me, and showed me a short, slender arrow, not much thicker than a string, headed with little triangular pieces of tin, and at the other end were fastened tufts of the down of thislles Having lifted the tube to his mouth, he placed the arrow within it, took aim at a pigeon, blew with a smart puff, and brought down the poor bird, though at a great distance. It seemed so very easy, that I thought I could use it to as much purpose as he did, but it was not till after many trials that I could touch a feather: so ne- cessary is practice to the simplest arts. This Indian was a warrior, and a famnm hunter in his tribe. He gloried in his .l.ili -n taking aninmls of all kinds, an.^ p-oud ui dispbying his talents before us, he invited us to join a parl^ to a bear. iumting, *%'■■'' -v4:i '"J-"' 273 hunting, in which he was to be a principal leader I accepted the invitation joyfully, and Mr. Franklin though averse from all scenes of destruction, a< he calls sporting, willingly united in the proposal, from curiosity. Early in the morning we were roused to the chase; a numerous company of Indians bein^ assembled, attended by large dogs, of a breed between the blood-hound and the mastiiF. We entered the woods together, and after walking some miles, my new acquaintance first perceived the track of a bear, amongst the scattered leaves; a discovery in which he was a great adept, being able to tell, with a glance of his eye, how many of these animals had passed that way, and whether they were cubs or old ones. The hunters imme- diately formed a circle, and advanced further into the forest; pursuing the scent, as they were directed by the dogs, till they roused the bear, which proved to be a female, followed by two cubs! The best marksman immediately took aim, and lodged several balls in her body. Full of rage at this assault, and alarmed for the safety of her young, she turned fiercely upon her enemies, whilst the'^cubs instantly ascended a tree. The dogs, with open mouths, kci)t her at bay till she feU, overpowered by repeated wounds, and the cubs afterwards became the prey of the hunters. The Indians had furnished themselves with knives and tomahawks; with tlie first they presently stripped ofF the skins^ n5 and <--^ 274 and with the last cut up the carcasses ; the parts of preference, such as the paws and haunclies, they carried home, and the remainder was left in the wood. The haunch of one of tlie cubs was dressed for dinner, and proved extremely good. In some of our forest excursions we saw coveys of birds, larger than, but otherwise much resembling the English partridge, called by the country peopl' spruce pheasants. These birds are delicate food, the flesh being flavoured very much like our pheasants ; and they are so stupidly tame, that it requires but little art to shoot them in numbers- especially if the sportsman begins his attack on the bird that sits lowest on the tree, and so proceeds a. they ascend ; the survivors seeming insensible to the fate of their companions. In order to pursue our journey, we proceeded to Fort Chippeway: it stands on a creek near the shore of the Niagara river. The fort consists of a small block-house, enclosed by a stockade of cedar-posts, which is merely suflicient to defend the garrison against musket shot. A few farm-houses, and some large stone repositories for goods, form the rest of the village. Block-houses are so commonly used here as fortifications, and so different from any thing in England, I must describe one to you. Their walls are formed of thick, square pieces of timber; the upper story projects above the lower, and loop- holes are left round the edge of the floor; so that if an attempt were made to storm the house, the garrison 275 garrison could fire directly on the assailants. But should their resistance be overpowered, and half the building be shot away, the other half would stand as firm as before, each piece of timber in the roof and walls being so fixed, as to be independent of the rest. So that if a piece of artillery were played upon the block-house, that part alone, against which the ball struck, would be displaced, and every other remain uninjured. From Fort Chippe- way we followed the course of the river to Fort Erie. In the latter part of our ride we observed that the land is rich, and well cultivated with Indian corn, gourds, and squashes; melons are also planted between the rows, and attain great perfection. Our iim at Fort Erie is a wretched log-house, with scarcely a whole pane of glass in any of the win- dows. Unfortunately for us, a heavy rain fell last night, that beat in upon us, as we lay asleep on the floor, folded in our buffalo skins; but our greatest hardship is want of food, and the little we get is so bad, that nothing but hunger can make it go down. We wait only for a fair wind to set sail across Lake Erie; and I am so tired of our quarters, I do little but watch the weather-cock. Present my af- fectionate duty to my mother, and think often of your absent. ARTHUH MIDDLETON. f ^' ' f XjE J. TER STC LETTER XXXVII. Mr. Franhlm to Edwin Middletort. MY DEAtt YOUNG ruiENB, FROM the account your brother gave of our accommodations at Fort Erie, you may believe we w,lh„gly obeyed the summons of onr cap.ai,, to embark. We had not been two hours on b'oa before .,,0 s.gnal gun was fired, and the vess - dded before the wind. Evening approache The vast bo,Iy of water, bounded only by the hon^on, glowed with the rich tints reflected from the western sky. The tall trees of the forest, that -lorned the shore, seemed tipped with gold, l^ i,, as be ,f ,, ,,,,„^„ ^^,^ ^^^ wasLusheiand ^anqud, as ,f nature were at rest. The mo„,e„t was favourable to reflection. My mind wan.lered across the Atlantic with satisfac.ion, in the cI -erauon that the same Power under whose prl tecon I had been preserved in safety through s" »ny changes of climate, watched ovc. .„y f^e„ a ome. -"k .o sleep under a strong im'pressi of the goodness of the Universal Father. In the •normng, the face of nature presented in.ages If Jus 277 his power The surface of the water, which bcfo.* «as smooth and clear, became agi,ate clumps ''4 'I- 1 it 280 clumps of trees, is spread before it, at the bottom of which stands a large wig-wam, or council-housi' where the Indians assemble whenever they transa( t any affairs of importance with the officers in tJie Indian department. During our stay at the house of this gentleman, I had the pleasure of seeing the ceremony o'distributing the presents. Previously to the day appointed, a number of chiefs, of different tribes, brought each a bundle of little bits of cedar wood, containing the exact number of his tribe who expected to share the bounty of their Great . r, as they style the king of England. The 1 t sticks represented the warriors; the next in size the women; and the shortest, the children. I'his contrivance gave as exact informntirn of what was necessary to prepare, as if the notice had been sent in writing. Early in the morning of the day they were to receive the gifts, a number of large stakes were first fixed in the lawn, to each of which was fastened a label, with the name of the tribe, and the num})er of warriors, Avomen, and children, in It, to whom presents were to be given. Presently the whole place appeared like a country fair. Bales of thick blankets; blue, scarlet, and 'brown clotl], and coarse figured cottons; with large rolls of tobacco, guns, flints, powder, balls, shot, case knives, ivory and horn combs, looking-glasses, pipe-ton.ahawks, hatchets, scissors, needles, bags of vermilion, pots and kettles, were displayed k order. The bales of goods were opened, and the blankets, blankets, sufficient article of the whoL heap, at name. After to assemh liie grou soon obei circle, lis to them warriors » (meaning opposite s Atlantic,) faithful p( sent the pi good child; and the an hope that 1 and that it huntino^. and chiidrc clothing, ai tinued he,) parents, ani between th( the Great 5 nn,l « r A-mi^^k ■ S81 blankets, cloths, and cottons, divided into pieces of sufficient kngih to make a wrapper, shirt, or other article of dress for a single person. The allotment of the whole for each tribe was afterwards tlirown in a heap, at the foot of the stake inscribed with its name. After this preparation, the chiefs were ordered to assemble their warriors, who were loitering about the grounds at the outside of the lawn. They soon obeyed the summons; and, having formed a circle, listened attentively to a speech delivered to them by the superintendant. "Chiefs and ™'iors," said he, " your great and good father, (meanmg the king of England,) who lives on the opposite side of the Big Lake, (as they term the Atlantic,) being ever attentive to the happiness of his faithful people, has, with his accustomed bounty, sent the presents you see spread on the grass, for his' good children the Indians. The guns, the hatchets, and the ammunition, are for the young men; but I hope that the hatchet of war wilf hui; aq dormant, and that it will only b;^ applied io the purposes of hunting. For the comfort of the aged, the women, and children, ho has supplied you with blankets, clothing, and kitcr.en utensils. Young men, (con- tinued he,) be attentive to the wants of your aged parents, and divide the spoils you take in' the cirase between them and your wives and children. May the Great Spirit grant you bright suns, clear skies, and a favourable season for hunting; and when another hi' I, (■■■ 4- i '• > another year shall be passed, if you continue peaceable, obedient, faithful children, your crood father will again send a vessel across the Big Lake laden with tokens of his friendship." Interpreters were present, who repeated this speech in the different languages of each tribe who expressed their approbation by loud ex' clamations, « Vohah! Yohahr After this address the chiefs were called forward and their respective portions committed to their care. The chiefs received them with gratitude and satisfaction, and beckoning to their warriors, a number of young men quickly started from the crowd, and in a few minutes the presents were con. veyed from the lawn, and stowed on board the canoes, which were waiting to carry them to an island in the river, called Bois Blanc, where many of the Indians reside. Your brother enjoys the most perfect health, and desires to unite his love to you, and the rest of your family circle, with that of your attached HENRY FRANKLIN. the river are to be most temj cherries, the owners we chose, different kl called port of a very core. Th( those of L< French; ai French des in the wes strong sto< gates, eacl situated in with all kii is excellent, LETTER ssa il LETTER XXXVIII. Arthur Middletm to Mrs. Middleton. Dctr&it. MY DEAR MOTHER, WE are now at Detroit, on the side of the river opposite to Maiden. Many settlements are to be seen on both shores, adorned Mdth the I most tempting orchards of peaches, apples, and ! cherries. The last were ripe; and lor a few pence ! the owners were willing we should take as many as we chose. The apples were green, and of many different kinds. They boasted particularly of that [called pomme caille, as of exquisite flavour. It is I of a very large size, and deep red colour to the core. The manners of the people are much like those of Lower Canada. Almost every body speaks French; and the generahty retain traces of their I French descent. The town of Detroit is the largest ' in the western country. It is surrounded by a strong stockade, through which there are four [gates, each defended by a blockhouse. It is situated in a land of plenty, being well supplied with all kinds of provisions. Fish, in particular, IS excellent, and abounds in the river and neio-h. bouring ■ , J 284 bouring lakes. A large species of trout, called here the Mir],illimakinack white fish, is a dainty morsel; but you know I am not attached to good eating, and can make a hearty meal on the plahicjt fare. The streets of the town are always crowded wiih Indians; and I already fancy I am in the midst ofj their country. They appear a harmless race, did not their wiser neighbours, the white people, tcadi them to drink spirits, which makes them, at times. almost mad; and excite them to revenge, by tres.j passing upon their territory; and injure them, in] many respects, by imposing upon their ignorance. When the States purchase lands of them, the chiefs sign the deeds by the token that distinguishes^ their tribe, which is generally the figure of somej animal. Many individuals are likewise honoured with peculiar titles, that express the qualities for which they are famed. One of my acquaintance is called the Blue Snake; another the Little Turkey; his father the Big Bear; and a nimble fellow, thati IS well known at Detroit, has i-eceived the name of] the Active Squirrel. Their ingenuity is charming, as you would acknowledge were you to see the carving on some of their wooden bowls, dishes, and other household furniture. But they bestow the greatest pains in decorating the handles of their! tomahawks, powder-horns, and the bowls of their pipes, which are carved very neatly, considering they have no other tool than a knife and a hatchet! The 285 I ' trout, called is a dainty ■led to good tlie plaiiKit rowded wiih lie midst of ss race, did eople, teach fi? at times, ige, hy trcs. re them, in ^norance. ' them, tiie istinguislies re of some i honoured uahties for :quaintance le Turkey; eilow, that le name of charming, to see the is, dishes, ey bestow es of their s of their msiderins: % hatchet. The T women are equally ingenious 1„ .he embroidery .ftheu.«occas,ns,akindofbu.l:l„.h.,.„,aro^ .!.-■ legs 'lhe,r ,x>rcupine.quill work i. elcganT »d .-.m'-J not d,.grace my Catherine. They J: ..0 -ft, new qu.lls of .„is anin.al of ,he „os l>nihm colours; (or tl,„i,. kn„wl„lg.. of ,he uses o J p.- enable, .h... .o excel u. ,h j .-ts of d^e „! « "-..-M.g wound, and some diseases ,ifh «.o„.hn,g success. But of all their attainmontsl ...most pleaded wi.h U.eir expert„...ss in goo^raphy l-havenom.ps,,rboo^stoexpliro,hm e».uaUonotr,vers„rp.o.inces;Lareth" A J en tormented whh l„„g ie.,sons of th. latitude » »n.pan.ons in vain persuaded them to return to l4e beaten tract. They persisted that they were going l'|S ^\^m r I* ^i ^6 going the direct way towards Philadelphia, and should presently overtake their friends, wlio, thov were sure, had chosen tlie same route. Nor were they mistaken. The others had made their way in the same place, through these pathless woods; and it was afterwards found that thc-y had taken the way to the place of their destination, as direct as if a crow had flown before them. I cannot resist relating an anecdote of a youiirr Seneka warrior, who came accidentally into a room where Mr. Franklin and I were examining a map of the stale of New York. As soon as he looked at the map, he comprehended its design; but beiixr unable to read, he could not discover what part of the country it described, till: I gave him a clue, by putting my finger on the spot where we then were, and showing him the situation of Buffalo Creel' where his village stood. In a moment he saw the connexion of one part with another, and, sitting down, presently ran over the whole map, and pointed out, by name, every lake and river for more than two hundred miles from the village where Ire lived. Some few years ago a treaty of peace was con. eluded between the Indians and Americans, with, the ceremony of burying the war-hatchet, which was related to us by an EngHshman who happened to be present. On this occasion, one of the chiefs arose, and after lamenting that the peace had con. tinued so short a time, proposed that a large oak itti In view 1 the hate might rei revered, " Trees storms, ai therefore at rest, tl which i*ea This proj aged chie and delive "I am bi liave not t to tear up (o overthr( concealed jcured for should be i man can fir between m murmur ol and the he solemnity, i My inclii hy indulger of America few months to go on a ^ fleavour to i 287 in vio«r should be torn up by the root,, and that .ho a,chet .hould be buried under i. where ™ght remain fur ever. A second, who was greatly revered, began ,o speak after the first was silent • "Trees (sa.d he) are liable to be overthrown by storms, and .n eourseof time will cerlainlv deeav- thoreiore I advise, that the hatchet may for ever be at rest, that .t be buried under the high mountain winch rears its proud head behind yonder forest " Tins proposal pk-ased the whole assembly, till an i "'f, f''^' '''/l-g"-hed for his wisdom, arose and delivered h,s opinion to the following effect- "I am but a poor, feeble old man, (said he,) and lave not the irresistible power of the Great Spirit to tear up the trees of the forests by the roots, or (ooverlhro,v mountains, that the hatchet maybe Mcealed beneath them; but that it may be ob »red for ever from our sight, I propose that it" should be thrown into the Great Lake, where no mn can find it and bring it forth, to raise enmity between us and our white brethren." A general ™rmur of applause ran through the assembly; «nd the hatchet was cast accordingly, with great I solemnity, into the ocean. My inclination for seeing the world is not abated by indulgence. When I have concluded the tour of Amenca, and had the pleasure of spending a few months with you, I hope you will permit me J) go on a voyage of discovery, where I shall en- [Jeavour to distinguish myself to your satisfaction, by *• I* .1' 4' ■|.l r»t> ^88 by my good conduct. Be assured, my dear motliei- that wherever I am, I can never forget the duty and afiection I owe you, and with which I s;ib. scribe myself. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER XXXIX. Mr. Franklin to his' Brother, MY DEAR BROTHEIl, WE left Detroit in a small vessel, whidi conveyed us, in a northerly direction, across Lake Huron, to Michillimakinack, the grand rendezvous of the dealers in furs ii'Om all parts. Lake Huron i. next in size to Lake Superior, and has a communi. cation with another vast body of water, called Lake Michigan. The Chippeway Indians have many villages scattered around Lake Huron; and amongst the natural productions of its shores are vast quan. titles of the sand cherry. Some appearances of unfavourable weather drove us into a large bay on the south-west side of the lake, known by the name of Saganaum Bay; but a clear sky soon enabled us to pursue our voyage. The captain pointed out another bay, remarkable for continued thunder, a phscnomenca phaDnon west lies believed spirits. an islan Michigai scarcely All is bu a tliousa making of furs, a highly an tor, being who want When Indians 1 their new another Vi ing them : trade. Ir accompani difions, ac became a were callec many grea consequenc military po confluence The In. and abused 289 - phenomenon not easily explained. To the north- .est hes the narrow chain of the Manatoulin Isles beheved by the Indians to be the abode of depa Id spm s. The port of Michilli„aki„«ek stan'sol sland, m a strait which „„i,es the Lakes M.ch.ga„ and Huron. Such a busy scene could scarcely be expected in so remote a situation A .s bustle and activity. There are not less Tn a thousand persons assembled, each interested Tn mh«g bargains, packing and unpacking bales of nrs, and trafficking with the Indians. Anhur h.gl.y amused, and is by no means an idle specta t '""^ !-"''^y '" g'- his assistance to any one" who wants it. •' "" When the Europeans first settled in Canada the Indians hunted only for food and clothing b .he.r new neighbours soon taught them to pu a.K,ther value on the furs they took, by excba^.. »g them for rum and other articles, i„ fhe w^ f ^ trade. I„ these early times, some of the Canadians accompan.ed the Indians on their hunting expe mons, adopted their savage m„de „f lift, !„a feame a sort of pedlars in fur. These people were called Coureurs des Bou, and were guilty of many great irregularities, which produced such ill consequences, that it became necessary to estabhsh confluence of the large lakes of Canada. The Indians, finding themselves often cheated »nd abused by the random adventurers that pe„e- " tratod I'll i* »♦ % I ■■'!■ 290 trated their territory, seem to have determined to extirpate the traders; but tlic small-pox having been communicated to them, by some accident proved such a desolating misfortune, as to deprive them of the power of resistance. So cle>>tructive was this disease, that the wolves and the ihwa dragged the dead bodies from the huts, which were left without inhabitants; and many instances are related of the father of a family calling his children around him, and urging them to avoid the miseries inflicted on their race by some evil spirit, as tlicy believed, by plunging their poi as they tlieir bo- ? to per- I, and to departed, lole liinii- ny placer, 291 allowed to be sold to the Indians; but this law is eluded by niuk.ng them a gift: and a pernicious one H .s to these people, whose manners it corrupts, whose health it injures; and it has too often been made the means of imposing upon them Our friends the traders, who mean to pursue their journey a vast way to the north-west, L the sake o tradmg with the distant tribes, arrived at this place a little before us. Tliey followed the course of th.e Utawas river, and consequently passed a very different route from that we have described 111 our letters, since we left Montreal. The parti ctilars of their journey have been related to me by the leader of the expedition, who is an intelligent iMn, named Roseberry, for whom I have contracted a friendship. They embarked at La Chine in a fleet of canoes each manned with eight or ten men; with their baggage, consisting of sixty-five packets of ^ood. SIX hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred wei^lu' of pork, three baskcs of peas, two oiUloths^o cover the goods, a sail, &c.; an axe, a towing line, a kettle, and a sponge to bail out the water; with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair the vessel. What European would undertake such a voyage m so slender a vessel, thus laden, with her gun- whale within six inches of the water.? Yet*" the Canadians are so expert that few accidents happen. At the end of the Lake of the Two Mnu^^ai-- -^- °^ - water < ( 1 1 ,i » ^i K ■1 .. ■'*'■'' H'l Hi' V ffii A 1;' ■ .'.if- '; r r ; I S92 Utawas Rl wli water contracts in course of fifteen miles, is interrii[)lecl by a succession of rapids and cascades, for ten more, where tenni. nate the Canadian Seigniories. 1 ought to liavc told you, that the company is composed of clerks interpreters, canoe-men, and ^uifles. They arc frequently obliged to unload their canoes at ditll. cult passages, an 1 carry the goods upon their backs, or, rather, suspended in slings from iheii- heads. Some men will carry three packages; others but two. The canoe, in this case, is toutd by a strong line. They had already passed three carry ing.places, when they reached a regular cur- rent of sixty miles, to the Portage de Ciiaudiere, where the body of water falls twenty-five feet, over cragged, hollow rocks, in a most wild, romantic manner. At a small distance below is the river Rideau, falling like a curtain, in one vast sheet, over perpendicular rocks. At this portage the canoe is obliged to be taken out of the water, and is carried with difficulty over the steep rocks. They now entered Lac des Chaudieres, which reaches about thirty miles in length. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats. The river is here barred by a ridge of black rocks, rising in pin- nacles, and covered with low, stinted wood. The ]| stream finds its way over and through these rocks, in numerous channels, making a considerable fall. From hence i>.. g/rpentine channel is formed by the rocks for sevei-d liles;, when the current slackens, and aiul receives the name of the Lake des Chats. At the channels of tlie Grand Calumet, the current recovers its strength, and the men are obliged to renew their labour of currying the goods over I several portages and xlccharg-ai : which differ in this, that, where it is necessary to convey the goods .alone over land, it is called a portage; but where the canoes also must be taken out of the water, it is a decharn'c. The Grand (Jalunict is the longest carrying-placft in this river, and is about two thousand and thirty-five paces, over a high hill. A few leagues beyond, the current forms Lake Coulonge, and from thence proceeds through the diannels of the Allumettcs, to the portage of the same name. A great part of the country through which they had passed is a fine deer-hunting tract; and the land, in many places, fit for cultivation! From hence the river spreads wide, and is full of islands to the beginning of Riviere Creuse, or Deep Iliver, which runs in the form of a canal, above a mile wide, for nearly thirty-six n)iles; the north side bounded by very high rocks, with a low, sandy j shore on the south. It is intercepted by falls and cataracts, which occasion two more portao-es. A 1" current carried them hence to the Riviere du :sUm , where there has generally been a trading- house. A succession of rapids and portages occurred till they reached the place where the Petile Riviere falls into the Utawas. The Lake Nepisingui is a few miles beyond it, and is bounded by rocks, which f 7;' "v. \ ['■'' 1 ■ ( .'I'. r V .t" 294 which are inhabited by the remainder of a numerous converted tribe of the Algonquin nation. Out of this lake flows the Riviere dcs Francois, over rocks of a considerable height. This river is very irregular, both as to its breadtli and form; and so interspersed with islands, that in its whole course the banks are seldom seen. They are chiefly hills of entire rock without the shallowest covering of soil. Jn about twenty-five leagues more, the trading company entered Lake Huron, and passed the island of St. Joseph, where is the most westerly military esta- blishment in the country. Nothing now obstructed their arrival at MichiUimakinack, to which they proceeded. Every thing is prepared for our departure to. morrow. We shall soon be beyond every trace of European civilization, roads, posts, or towns, I shall keep a narrative of the most striking occurrences, with remarks on the wild country and people we are going to visit, which I shall transmit to you, by the first con-eyance that offers. In the mean time, feel no uneasiness for my safety; but rely upon that Providence which watches,' with an equal eye, over all the nations of the globe. Adieu. H. FRANKLIN. LETTER. 295 LETTER XL. Mr. Henry Franldln to his Brother. Fori ChepexcynH. MY DEAR BROTHER, YOU must not consider this as a letter, but rather as a journal of our travels through the wilds of the north-west parts of America. After emharking at Michillimakinack, we proceeded to the Fall of St. Mary, where is a village that was formerly a place of great resort for the inliabitants of Lake Superior; but the trade is now dwindled to nothing, and the people reduced to about thirty families of the Algonquin nation, and a few Ca- nadians who have settled amongst them. The great quantity of white-fish that are to be taken near the falls, especially in autumn, is their attraction to this spot At that season, this fish leaves the lakes, and comes to the running shallow waters to spawn. The natives live chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by the tail, and preserve them throughout the winter with salt, when they can get it. Leaving St. Mary's, we now entered Lakf Superior, which I think may be pronounced the largest and most magnificent body of fresh water ? t \-, 596 water in the world. It is clear, of vast depth, and abounds in a great variety of fish, which are the most excellent of their kind. There are three sorts of trout, weighing from five to fifty pounds; sturgeon, pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bass,' herrings, &c. and the last and best of all, the tica- mang, or white.fish, which is found from four to sixteen pounds weight. The north shore is a con- tmued mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to one thousand five hundred feet in height; and is broken by numerous coves and sandy bays, which are frequently sheltered by islands from the swell of the lake. Many of the islands, are composed of lava, intermixed with round stones of the size of a pigeon's egg. This vast collection of water is often covered with fog, which, driving against the high rocks, dissolves in torrents of ram. The inhabitants of the coasts are all of the Algonquin nation, and are very few. Fish is their principal support; for the rocks, bearing a volcanic appear- ance, and being destitute of shelter, do not abound m animals. Between the stinted timber, that has fallen in many places, grow briers, hurtlcberry, gooseberry, and raspberry bushes, which invite the bears into the neighbourhood. The Grande Portage, where we landed, is situated on a pleasant bay, on the north side of Lake Superior. The fort is picketed in with palhsadoes, and encloses houses built with wood and covered with shingles. These are for the accommodation of the merchants and f' '^ 297 and their clerks, during their short stay there. The north men hve under tents; but the more frugal pork-cater, or canoe-man, lodges beneath his canoe. The portage here is nine mil^s, over liills and mountains; but the men are so inured to the busi- ness, that, for an extra reward, some of them, after Jiaving carried two packages of ninety pounds each, returned with two others of the same weight. The goods being safely conveyed over the portage, Mr. Roseberry and his partners have selected from the pork-eaters a proper number of men to manage the north canoes, that are to proceed to the interior parts of the country. Those men who went last year to the north, are also arrived at the Grande Portage, where they receive their wages, and often send part of them to their friends in Canada. We mess at the first table, with the merchants, clerks, guides, and interpreters ; and fare well, on fresh meat, salt pork, fish, and venison; but the poor canoe-men are obliged to be satisfied with a pudding of hominy. The necessary arrangements being made, our leader ordered us to embark again on the north side of the portage, on the river Au Tourt. It would be uninteresting to mention all the portages and decharges we passed, between this place and Lake de la Pluie; suffice it to say, the poor fellows were often obliged to unload their canoes, and endure the excessive labour of carrying their goods, some- o 5 times 'l^''- [ "fill 1 I ,< times over rocks and precipices that were difficult to pass even without a load. At the further end of the Outward Portage, is a very considerable hill to descend, over which hangs a rock, seven hundred feet high. The face of the country, during this part of our route, is generally a wild scene of^huge hills and rocks, separated by stony valleys, lakel, and ponds: the latter often covered witk water' lilies, and the ground, where there is any soil sheltered with trees. In one or two places, I heard of a strange property of the current to attract the canoes towards the bottom, so that it is difficult to paddle over it; and we were told of loaded canoes bemg ill danger of being swallowed up. Before the small-pox desolated this country, and completed the destruction of the inhabitants, who had been previously much thinned by a war with the Nodowasis, it was very populous. They are particularly attached to the part near the Lake de Sagnigan, and make their canoes there: the lake abounding with fish, the country around it helm plentifully supplied with game, and the rockv ndges that form the boundaries of the water covered with a variety of berries. ' Near Lake de la Pkiie, the natives find a soft red stone, of which they make their pipes. Here the people from Montreal meet those who come irom the Athabaska country, and exchange ladin- with them. It is the residence of the first chief^ or re difficulf her end of ible hill to 1 hundred Jring this Q of imsQ ys, lakes, t't water. any soil, places, I to attract s difRcult ^d canoes it being I a soft Here come lading : chief, or S99 or Sachem, of all the Algonquin tribes. Here also the elders meet in council, to treat of peace or war. The discharge of this lake is called de la Pluie River, and is one of the finest streams in the north-west, running a course of eighty miles. Its banks are covered with a rich soil, and are often clothed with open groves of oak, maple, pine, and cedar. It3 waters abound in fish ; particularly sturgeon, which the natives either spear or take with drag-nets. The French had formerly many settlements near Lake (lu Bois; a body of water remarkable for a cluster of islands, some of which are of such extent that they may be taken for the main land. This part of the country is so broken by lakes and rivers, that a man in a canoe may direct his course whichever way he pleases. The Indians have a curious custom of crowning stones, laid in a circle on the highest rock of a portage, called Galet du Bonnet, with wreaths of branches and shrubs. Wild rice grows very abundantly throughout the country; and the fruits spontaneously produced are strawberries, hurtleberries, plums, cherries, hazel-nuts, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and pears. Lake Winnipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers, and discharges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The Red River runs into the lake from an almost opposite direction. There are two trading establishments on it. The COUntrv. on either sidp- onnaista n£ nlnin«. whpre herds 300 herds of the buffalo and the elk graze at full liber,, Ihe eas era side abounds in beavers, bears, mo,,,; aeer, lallo,v.doer, &c. The Red Kiver divil: »nto two branches, that bound a considerable district .nhabued ehiefly by ,he Assiniboins. They cor fine themselves to hunting the buffalo and trapping Wves. The remainder of the former, which thS do not want immediately for food or clothing, thev pound into pemican, something like potted meat" and n:elt the fat, and prepare the skins in the Imir for wmter. They never eat the wolves; but thcv' make tallow from their fat, «nd dress their skins which they exchange with the traders for arms' «mmu.mi„n, rum, tobacco, knives, and trinkets! Ihere are m this country three principal forts for trade; one on the river Dauphin, one on Red- deer River, and ihe last on Swan River The in..ab>lants are chiefly wandering hunters, of il,e Kn.steneaux and Algonquin tribes. The passn^e oJ our canoes was interrupted in the Saskatchwino r'ver by a rapid, in which the waters tumble over ndges o. rocks that cross the river.' At the foot of th,s cascade there is an excellent sturgeon-fishery, frequented by vast numbers of pelicans and cor! niorams. uhieh watch for an opportunity of seizing the hsh that may be killed or disabled by the ibrct of the waters. From the Saskatchiwine a succession of sn,all lakes, interrupted by falls and rapids, and varied w,th rocky inlands, extends to the Great Church.ll River. The Portage de Traite received its 301 its name from Mr. Joseph Probisher, who penc- t-ated ,nto this part of the eountry from Canada, as early as the year 1774, where he met the India,. i„ the sprmg, on their way to Churchill, aecordin. to annual custom, with their canoes full of valuable tt-'-S; They traded with him, for as many of them as h,s canoes would carry; and in consequence of this transaction, its present name was given to the portage. The country is inhabited by sevord tribes: those who live to the norlh.«est are beaver unters; the others deal in provisions, and wolf, huffalo, and fox skins. The I'icancaux and Stone Indians m their war-parties, wander on the con- nes of Mexico, where they cont.ive to posses.s lliemselves of horses; some of which ihey employ to carry loads, and the others are used in the chase of the buffalo. A dreadful monument remains of the mortality occasioned by the small-pox, at the Portage des Morts, where there is a promontory covered with human bones. On a certain rock where the Indians were used to make an oiilrin.. -ve observed sketches of figures painted red, an'd' on a small island in the Lake dos l'our», a vcrv lai^e stone in the form of a bear, on which th; natives had painted the head and snout of that animal. The numerous lakes, falls, rapids, islands, and hays, in the course of our navigation, cannot be particularized; I shall therefore only draw your attention to the principal, or such places as are on 'J'C' 302 on any account remarkable. There is a fort on a low isthmus, in Isle a la Crosse, which has takca its name from the game of the cross, which is a favourite amusement amongst the natives. Tlie situation of Lake a la Crosse; the abundance oi' the finest fish to be found in its waters; the ricli- ness of its surrounding banks and forests, in moose and fallow deer; with the multitudes of the smaller tribes of animals, whose kinds are precious; and tlic numerous flocks of wild-fowl, that frequent it in the spring and autumn — make it a most desirable spot. either for the residence or occasional resort of the natives. At Portage la Loche the navigation ceases, and the canoes, with tlieir lading, are carried over land for thirteen miles. This portage is formed by the ridffe that divides the waters which discharge themselves into Hudson'^s Bay, from those that flow into the northern ocean. The Portage la Loche is covered with the cypress, the pine, and the spruce fir, and is of a level surface till within a mile of its termination; when we descended a very steep precipice, that seemed equally imprac- ticable to climb up or down, as it consists of eight hills, some of which are almost perpendicular; nevertheless, the activity of our Canadians sur- mounted all these difficulties, even with their canoes and lading. When we reached the top of the precipice, which rises upwards of a thousand feet above the nlain, everv one was charmed: hut Arthur Arthur mantic, Artliur, templati the Swa miles. ' adorned is confine playing t lawn, an( the prosj are covei montories buffalo fin where fire void behii cultivated occupatior From 1 upon our ] mies, emp ing meadc turned up bottoms, in We wer progress b^ ing many d standing o] Lake of the — — — wi^tii. fort on a las taken Inch is a es. Tho ndancc of the rich- in moose le smaller ; and the t it in the able spot, )rt of the ases, and over land 3d by the discharge lose that ortage la )ine, and ill within tended a ■ imprac- nsists of ndicular; ans sur- ith their le top of thousand . [led; but f Arthur SOS Arthur stood enraptured with the extensive ro mntic, and ravishing prospect. Mr. Roseberrv Arthur, and myself, indulged ourselves with con templating the vast expanse. Beneath us flowed' the Swan River, beautifully meandering for thirtv .iles. The valley, which is at once reLhed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth, and .sconhned by two lofty ridges of equal height dis playing a most delightful intermixture of wood and iawn, and stretching on till the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by pro montories of the finest verdure, where th. elk and buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behmd it. Amidst this sublime display of un- cultivated nature, the moving scenery of human occupation completed the prospect. From this elevated situation we looked down upon our fellow-travellers, who appeared like pig mies, employed in pitching their tents in a charm ing meadow, amidst their canoes; which, being turned upon their sides, presented their reddened bottoms, in contrast with the surrounding verdure. We were again frequently interrupted in our progress by carrying-places; but after surmount- ing many difficulties, we reached Fort Chcpewyan, standing on a point, on the southern side of the' Lake of the Hills. The season being now so far advanced as the beginning } '.;, i :f'.i:: 504 beginning of October, I have resolved to take ui) our winter quarters at this fort, with Mr. lloseberry and otljcrs; thougli some of the people are dis- patched up the Peace River, to trade with the Beaver and Rocky IVIouniain Indians; and odiers, for the same purpose, to the Slave River and Lake. Mr. Roseberry, who is very attentive to pro- vide for the wants of those under his command, having no dependance for winter stock, but the produce of the lake and the fishery, has ordered the nets to be prepared. These nets are sixty fathoms long ; a small stone and a wooden buoy aiv fastened to the side line, opposite to each other, at the distance of two fathoms. When the net is carefully thrown into the water the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its full extent; and it is secured in this position by a stone at each end. The nets are visited every day, and frequently taken out to be cleaned and dried. This is easily performed at present; but it will be a difficult task when die water is frozen five feet deep, which it generally is in the winter. Then the men arc obliged to cut holes in the ice, at the distance of thirty feet from each other, to the full length of the net. By means of these openings, and with the assistance of poles, the nets are placed in, and drawn out of the water. Hooks and lines are also daily employed to provide a winter store. The white-fish arc the principal objects of pursuit: they they sp£ ginning shallow 1 and pres state. In sp] frequent consider sisted on vegetable In the traders at provisions credit, an do not re they are come bad of April. resort to 1 summer, that plent' of deer. these desei are oblige woods dur they contri by young ammunitio Arthur'! ment; but 805 they spawn in the autumn, and towards the be. ginning of the hard frost crowd in shoals to the shallow water; when as many as possible arc taken, and preserved perfectly good, till April, in a frozen state. In spring and fall great numbers of wild-fowl frequent this country, which I suppose we shall consider a great treat, after having so long sub- sisted on fish alone, even widiout the addition of vegetables. In the fall of the year, the natives meet the traders at the forts, where they barter such furs or provisions as they have to sell; they then 'obtain credit, and proceed to hunt beavers: whence they do not return till the beginning of the year, when they are again fitted out in the same manner, and come back the latter end of March or the beginning of April. The greater part of the Chepewyans resort to the barren grounds, and live, during the summer, with their relations, in the enjoyment of that plenty which they derive from numerous herds of deer. But those who are the most attached to these deserts, cannot remain there in winter; but are obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in the woods during the rigour of the season. Sometimes they contrive to kill a few beavers, which they send by young men, to exchange for iron utensils and ammunition. « Arthur's active mind is never at a loss for amuse- ment; but the unvaried solitude of our present situation. 306 situation, will not bear a comparison with tljc- cheerful society we enjoyed last \> inter at Qutlti; and Montreal. Mr. Hosebcrry has travel kd ^ vast deal in this part of the country, and is well acquainted with the language and peculiar customs of different tribes, which makes him a very enter- taining companion, and enables him to amuse many a dreary hour. This letter will be dispatched to Canada, by iJie first company that returns thither with furs. Present my kindest remembrances to all niy | European friends and connexions ; and be assured that I am your affectionate brother. HENRY FRANKLIN. LETTER XLI. Arthur Middleton to Ms Brother Edivin, Chepewiian. MY DEAR EDWIN, THE rigours of winter are past, and our long confinement at this Fort ended, which is matter of rejoicing to me, for I am quite weary of the uniformity of our lives. We are to embark presently in a canoe, made of birch bark, on the south side of the Lake of the Hills, for a very distant country northwards. Our crew will consist of of Mr. dians, w will folio Ills wive relations, hunt for natives, nition, p assortmer the favoii though d( toencouni .nothing b for the fu of our stor this is the to you til dated. Followii Peace Ri\ breadth, a account of as a reproa own count of the Do selves, whi rapids obli^ convey the extremely ; them a lux 807 of Mr. Franklin, Mr. Kosebmy, and four Cana- niade racp wWh ind the r.«f .^ '' ""'^^ '^ ^^" '^^hind, and the rest is cut so short as to expose their ears There were old men with Ion., beards nJ T ;i- had pulled them out by the root ' The " ave two double hues tatto'oed upon eacrcl^ trom the ear to the nose- «nr1 . i i • ^"^^^ the rrrisrlp nf T f "^ '^ ^^«^^ ^s made throqgh he gristle of the nose, large enough to receivfa Soose.qudl, or a small piece of wood- a T notion of finerv hut t . strange nnery, but not more absurd than n European lady's ear-rin0"o bottom: these are worn n\gH ,„d dav Tl egg.ns reach half way up the" thil, tda.. .7 «.dered on the sea„,s and the anff' t^J^ '1 ess nearly alike. To complete tl^r „t /h adorn )h»m5elve, ,,.;,)- ^ "- "twr «t e they ""'"'' «uh gorgets; bracelets of wood 1 > t :\ ' \ * 1 If ' i ,|^R i, . ' 1 ', ■ ,' 1 M: f '' (|i: ' <) V hor n, 314 Iiorn, or bone, on the arms and wrists; and a band of kather round tlie head, wrought with porcuiV-re qui Is, and stuck round with claws of bears and wdd-fow], to which they hang short thongs of the SKin of an animal resembling the ermine, m the form of a tassel. Bands, garter., &c. are formed of the quills of the porcupine, woven together with sinews ni a very neat manner, and fringed with ^ strmgs of leather, worked round with dyed I,,ir of various colours. You can hardly conceive anv thing more grotesque than their whole appearance - A fevv poles supported by a fV,rk, fixed in a iJ semicircular form, and covered with branches or! bark, serve them fbr a lodge. They build two f of these opposite to one another, and make the fire between them. Their furniture consists chieflv i of a few dishes of wood, bark, or horn: thei; ' cooking vessels are sliaped like a gourd, narrow at top and wide at bottom, and are made of wa- , tape, which is the roots of the spruce fir-tree split, I and wove so close as to hold liquids: but as they I would burn on the fire, they make them boil by | putting red-hot stones into them. They have, be- sides, a number of small leather bags, to hold their embroidery, lines, and nets. Of the fibres of the wdlow bark they make thread, and fishing-lines of .the smews of the rein-deer. They hunt with bow. and arrows, spears, daggers, and clubs. The da- gers are short, flat, and sharp pointed, and are made of of hoi piece < so ligh They suade us tha that 01 our ret of mon ter, if] this hai Mr. R grave ; easily e Notv re-embf river. ridge o number those 1 Indians of the Indians but we and pa; course t flowed i of four terrified They al M- r f and a band ii porcuj)ine i^ hears and longs of the (; fiine, k] the are formed I •gethcr with i-ingcd with I dyi^d hair >nccive any ^ ppearance. ^ fixed in a . iranches or build two make the sists chieflv 3ra : their .' 'd, narrow jde of wa- '-tree split, \ lut as they s| in boil by j have, be- hold their res of the ,, g-lines of ivith bows The dag. are made ' of' 813 of hor„ or bone. Their axes are composed of a p.ece of grey or brown stone; and their canoes are «o light as to be carried with ease on a .nan's back. Ihcy urged every argument they could use lo dis. suade us from proceeding on our voyage, assuring hat U would take years to reach the sea, and tln.t our heads would be silvered with age before our return. They also related ridiculous traditions of monsters of frightful shapes, that would encoun- ter, ,f not devour us by the way. You may believe th.s had no effect on such men as Mr. Franklin or Mr. Boseberry; but our poor Indians looked very grave at these wonderful accounts, and were not easily encouraged to lay aside their fears, Notwithstanding these dreadful prognostics, we re-embarked, and soon passed the Great Bear Lake river. We met with numerous islands, and had a ridge of snowy mountains always in sight. Great numbers of bears and small white buffaloes frequent those mountains, which are also inhabited by Indians. Soon after we came to the termination of the mountains, the rapid appeared which the Indians had described as so extremely dangerous; but we found their accounts greatly exaggerated, and passed it without difficulty. Pursuing our course to the north-west, we came to a river that flowed from the eastward. Here an encampment of lour fires invited us to land: a measure which ternfied these poor people, who took us for enemies. -----J „-, „.,,,. „,„^xeiit wuys, except an old man, ^ ^ who ¥mr^ 'h: I'^if who approached us will, the full expectation ol being put to death. He said, his few renminln. days were not worth preserving; but, witl, the most aflectnig earnestness, puJied oil' Ins venerable rjrcv locks by handiuls, and distributed them «monost us, nnplonng our favour fbr himself and his relations. Our Indians assured him of our frieijcily intentions, which Mv. lloseberry confirmed by p,/ sents of such trifles as he knew would be acceptable to the people. The old man, having gained con- fidence, recalled the scattered fugitives; and ono of them, though reluctantly, was persuaded to accompany us as a guide in our expedition. ^Y, re-embarked, and fbund the river grow narrower and bounded by lofty, perpendicular, whito rock.' We exchanged a few trinkets with another party of Indians, for a parcel of excellent fish. Amongst them was some unknown to us, of a round form and greenish colour. Prom an encampment of three or four families a little beyond, we received hares, partridges, and a grey crane. Our new guide endeavoured to persuade us to return, telling us that he was afraid of the Esquimaux, who, he said, were a very wicked, malignant people, and but two summers ago came up this river and killed many of his relations. Our appearance mostly terrified the scattered parties of Indians that we saw encamped on the banks of the river; but our guides, by assurances of friendship, and Mr. Roseberry by presents, animal scarce i to see ( the rive describe knowled presents this cou should I and that his natic the soui when sor pieces, i token of Roseberr pocket-bc could no imagined diarm, bi brothers f not only in imitatic our new ■, canoe, thf n-ith the pectation ol' V renjainlng »tl» the most lerabic grey m ainoiiost 1*' and his >ur iVmidly '^'d l>y pre- acceptablc aincd cou- ; and one suaded to tioii. "We naiTowcT, lito rocks. r party of Amongst form and families, Iges, and aured to as afraid a very summers f of his Sed the camped ies, by ::rry by resents, 317 presents, generally allayed tl .ir fears, and brought them to a degree of familiarity. One party was clad m hare-skins, and belong to a tribe called Hare Indians, from living principally on that animal and fish; rein-deer and beaver being very scarce m this part of the country. We continued to see different parties encamped on the banks of ihe river, who differed but little from those I have described. As we had advanced far beyond the knowledge of any of our guides, by bribes and presents Mr. Koseberry prevailed with a native of this country to go with us. He told us that we should sleep ten nights before we came to the sea, and that we were near the Esquimaux, with whom Ins nation was now at peace. Having never heard the sound of a gun, he was extremely startled when some of the hunters discharged their fowling- pieces, and, had they not assured him it was a token of friendship, would have left us. Mr. Roseberry^s making some memorandums in his pocket-book, was another cause of alarm, as he could not compreliend the design of writing, but imagined he was a conjuror, and that it was a charm, by which he might be injured. Tv/o of his brothers followed us in their canoes, and amused us, not only with their native songs, but with others, in imitation of the Esquimaux; which so animated our new associate, who was also in his own small canoe, that he jumped and capered to keep time- mth the sin S'lng, till we were terrified lest h< should 318 should upset his light bark. A smoke western shore induced a most terrible uproar, land. Th talk on the c natives jnnr very louj and running a,,ont as if ,hcy were^ont of S senses; wlnle the creator mrf of ,1, chJd.cn fled away, « sure sign of l.ostile i„,e„ ons; bnt «.e were .00 numerous to bo afraid" Jen,. A fe. blue beads made them our friends 1 hey are called the Quarrollers. The river was no," dmded .nto several channels, and it was difficul whu:h to choose. Mr. Iloseberry determined on the middJe one. We were now in such high northern regions «.at the sun was above the horizon all night. Mr' Frankhn and I resigned one night's rest to enioy a spectacle to us so extraordinary, and that we were never likely to see again when we left this country. Traces of the Esquimaux were observed m several places. Near the spots where they had made the.r fires, were scattered pieces of whale- bone, tlnck burned leather, and marks where they had spdied tram-oil. In one place we saw threl of their huts, for I cannot dignify them with the name of house. The ground plot is of an oval form, about fifteen feet long; the whole of it is dug about twelve inches below the surface of the ground, and one half of it is covered with branches of wdlow, which probably serve the whole family for a bed. A space in the middle of the other half, about four feet wide, is deeper than the rest, and covered creep o On the square, door, a the floe stumps the roo pieces o The wl branche deep of square the mid suppose! provisioi fixed m .'langujg As \^ except a us to la houses, ! high Ian and flow s difficult mined on 1 regions, :lit. Mr. to enjoy that we left this observed they had f whale- lere they aw three with the an oval of it is 3 of the )ranches ? family le other ;he rest, and 319 and is the only part of the house where a grown I)erson can stand upright. One side of it is the hearth, or fire-place; but they do not appear to make much use of it, for the wall, though close to it, did not seem to be burned. The door is in the middle of one of the ends, and opens into a covered way, so low that we were obliged to creep on all-fours to enter this curious habuation. On the top is a hole, of about eighteen inches square, which serves for a window, an occasional door, and a chimney. The underground part of the floor is lined with split wood. Six or eight stumps of small trees driven into the earth, with the root upwards, on which arc laid some cross pieces of tiniber, support the roof of the building. The whole is made of drift-wood, covered with branches and dry grass, over which is laid a foot deep of earth. On each side of these houses are square holes dug in the ground, covered, except in the middle, with split wor>d and earth; these were supposed to be storehouses, for the winter stock of provisions. Before each hut were stumps of trees fixed in the ground, probably for the purpose of hanging their fish upon to dry. As we advanced, trees became very scarce, except a few dwarf willows. A violent rain forced us to land again, and shelter ourselves under four houses, similar to those I have just described. The high lands adjacent were covered with short grass and flowers, whilst the valleys presented a sheet of snow f. . n ■) it 3S0 snow and ice. ndnff come t<, tl.c entrance of a Ia,„. t'KMh,clscern a solid field of ice, extending fr„,n he south-west ,« the eastward. A chain of „,„„„ ta.ns were dindy perceived on the ..nuh, stretchi„: out as far as the eye could reach; and to the east" ward we saw ,„a„y islands. White partridges' now turned brown, were rather plentiful: flocks „f beaufftd plovers were also connnon; as were white owls, and gulls of the same colour. As I was rambling about in search of a plover's nest, I discovered the grave of one of the natives- by U lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear-articles that doubtless belonged to the deceased; but the arn,s I.at had w,elded them were unstrung: they remained as tokens, perhaps, to perpetuate the remend.rancc of h.s.pertnessi„ the chaseorthe management of Our provisions running rather short, the nels were pt,t down, and we halted a day or two, in hopes of supplying ourselves with fish. Durin. our stay, we had dear proofs of the rising of tht lit Tt'^f" "' '""'='"''' "■"' "'^ ^'^^^ -""""- ".cated wtth the sea; and, as a confirmation of that opinion^ f)))ini(>i but or white f. easily i us, lllJi prodigi Jar^e a; Mr. rcmcnil inscribe and tb( deter mi Cbepcw \v'e cam of what lion sue to you. dimitiisb stance t had not toes, wl We ]an( eastern dead, tl with nu tered th those w] observed with bra of a large atcr, nrid J not tra- temion of ^'ornpany in before pitched of which «ng from 'f moun- rctchiniv the cast- t ridges, locks of 'e white plover's latives: les that le arms mained hraiice lent of e nets ^vo, in during 3f the mmu- P that nion. opinion, some of our nioii described, as tl ffii hut u(L 1 lov inia- uige pieces of ice advaiuing toward on a closer inspection they were whales, wl s ns lose wliite sides rising above the water, ini^l^t at first be eanly mistaken for shoals of ice. Our guide told us, that the Escpiimaux cliiefiy lived upon these prodigious fish, and that they were oiien seen as large as our canoe. Mr. lloseberry caused a post to be erected, in remembrance of our having reached this spot, and inscribed on it O'D" T north latitude, our names, and the date of our arrival. ^Vc now reluctantly determined to steer our course back again towards I Chepewyan Fort; and as we returned I)y the way we came, I shall net trouble you with a repetition of what I have already described, but only men- tion such particulars as 1 think will be interesting to you. The cold, which had been very great, diminished after we entered the river: a circum- stance that would liave been very agreeable, if it had not been for our old tormentors, tlie musqui- toes, whose numbers increased with the warmth. We landed upoh a small round island, close to the eastern shore, which seemed to be sacred to the dead, there being a place of sepulture, crowded with numerous graves: amongst these were scat- tered the implements that formerly belonged to those who were interred there. We frequently observed a kind of fence along the liills, made with branches, where the natives had set snares i'ir p 5 I'fijjff ill!/ to 3^2 to catch white partridges. Tliis leads me to men tion the method the northern Indians use to catch deer m a pound. They first search for a path frequented by those animals; and if it crosses a lake, a wide river, or a barren plain, it is the more fa! vourable for their purpose; especially if woods are near, to supply them with materials for their work The pound is then built with a strong fence, made of brushy trees, perhaps a mile in circumference. The entrance is not wider than a common gate, and the inside is filled with hedges, in the manner of a iabyrmth; in every opening is set a snare, made with thongs of parchment deer-skins, well twisted together, which are extremely strong. These snares are generally fastened by one end to a pole, to pre- vent the deer from dragging the snare from its . situation. When the pound is thus prepared, a row of small brush-wood is stuck up in the snow that covers the frozen lake or plain, where neither stick nor stump besides is to be seen, which makes them a more striking object. These bushes diverge from the entrance of the pound, sometimes for two or three miles, on each side of the deer's path. As soon as the deer are perceived going that way, men, women, and children contrive, by making a circuit, to get unobserved behind them. Then they form themselves into a semicircle. The poor timorous deer, finding themselves pursued, run straight for- wards into the pound, when the entrance is stopped up with bushes. The men lose no time in followincr them are loos It h walk w when 1 snow-sh distance a youn^ knew e! story: g Dog-rib by a pai adopted never w from he aged fat panions, fore, she her esca country; canoe, t lakes ha way, an hut, as that she to lay t self eve: snaring also cor ' to men- to catch ' a path ?s a lake, more fa- oods are 'ir work. '0, made iference. ate, and iier of a ?, made twisted e snares to pre- Tom its •ared, a le snow neither I makes diverfi-e for two h. As Y, men, circuit, y form norous ht for- topped lowincr them i Q2S them into the enclosure; where those that are entangled in the snares are speared, and those that are loose, shot with bows and arrows. It happened one morning that I had taken a walk with the hunters in pursuit of some deer, when we perceived the track of an uncommon snow-shoe. We followed it to a considerable distance, till we were led to a little hut, where a young woman was sitting alone. My companions knew enough of her language to compreliend her story: she told them that she belonged to the tribe of Dog-ribbed Indians, and had been taken prisoner by a party of their enemies; who, though they had adopted her, and treated her with kindness, could never win her affections, as she could not banish from her mind their cruelty in slaughtering her aged father and mother, with the rest of their com- panions, whom they surprised in the night: there- fore, she had taken the first opportunity of makinf^ her escape, with the hope of returning to her own country; but that, having been carried away in a canoe, the turnings and windings of the rivers ar.d lakes had so bewildered her, she could not find her way, and had therefore been obliged to build this hut, as a defence against the weather. Slie said, that she eloped in the month when the birds begin to lay their egss, and that she had supported her- self ever since, which was several months, by snaring partridges, rabbits, and squirrels: she had also contrived to kill two or three beavers, and some mh m i 324. some porcupines. Fortunately, she had been able to bring with her a few deer sinews, with which she . had made her first snares ; and afterwards she was obliged to substitute the sinews of the rabbets' h^s she had caught, twisted together. The rabbits not only afforded her food, but a neat, warm suit of clothes, that she had made very ingeniously It was happy for her that necessity obliged her to employ herself in soHtude, or she would probably have sunk a victim to despair and melancholv When she was not engaged in hunting for food, sh J amused the tedious hours with twisting the inner rind of willows into small lines, like net-twine, of which she intended to have made afishing.net Five or six inches of an iron hoop made into a knife, and the shank of an iron arrow head, were the only tools she had; but she was far better qualified to support herself, under such disastrous circumstances, than a European woman, because the Indians not only make their wives and daughter, assist^ them in snaring animals, but they compel them also to perform the most laborious tasks She was very glad to leave her retreat, and accom. paiiy us to our camp, As she had a fine figure, and with the singularity of her dress, made a striking appeaivmce, she drew general attention; and having given decisive proofs of her cleverness, each of the Inchans wished to have her for a wife. A wrestling, match took place on the occasion; as it is usufl amongst the northern Indians, when two n^n like the fi ^ f; gratiti perfecl please( Wh tudes, degree, eagerne During the Sla^ menis; retreatei were mc and wci varied e: cold; an the heat frequent; screen oi like sand, siderable stars coul descended stay amon never hai day-light. 3£ r.5 Kinti, and the poor woman, who^e inolinon- • ;ihe Jnd,an who first discovered he. ^raino 1 ,1 pmo; and whether her preference arc ^.0^10! gratitude is difficult to determine I V7 °' perfectly contented with Z^ I,'' :^;^, ^^f WJiiIst we M'ere in tUn «x-f„ i • . 4.7 >«^ii' m tlic extreme hirrU „orth Iifi degiee, so that we no longer felt surprise at ih! eagerness for food shown by the nort e n . h ^ ment hut ' " "" "^'""^ °' ^""'-' ™-'"P- r"?eat'ed ir °"'' • "f P''.''^'^''' "- people gener.lfy utieated with prec;p,tat.on to the woods Tlr^v were tnostly employed in drying fi.h for the winter »nd were often attended with dogs. The ^S:: vaned extremely. One day we were pinched w -Id; and, probably, the next, overpowere.I , i,. he heat. Storms of lightning and thunder T ' frequent; and on one occasion we were obliged to screen ourselves from the stones hurled in the a r i|e sand, by lying flat on the ground. For a „ derable ttme the nights were so light, that the tars cou d not be perceived, even after the sun escended below the horizon, which, during our stay amongst the islands in the most northern lake tjever happc^ned; consequently, it was perpetual (lav- '"y-I-ght. Our fare was varied by fish of dik rent kindj Q26 kinds, swans, geese, wild-fowl, partridges, hares, and venison, according to our situation; and we always had plenty of berries of different sorts. We crossed the Slave Lake without any material accident- though the weather was very stormy, and we were frequently obliged to land and gum our canoes. We fell in, one evening, with a lodge of Knis- teneaux Indians. x\mongst them one man was very much indisposed, from a superstitious idea that his enemies had thrown medicine at him^. which he was firmly persuaded would cause his death. Mr. Franklin assumed the character of a physician, and professed to have an antidote that would effectually cure him. He made him a harmless mixture, that had such a good effect upon his spirits, that he perfectly recovered. After so long a voyage, and so many fatigues, we joyfully entered the Lake of the Hills, across whicli we were speedily wafted by a fair wind to Chepewyan, where we found our former acquaint- ance in good health, and well pleased at our return. Our voyage being concluded, my journal closes, with the assurance that I ever am, most affection- ately, yours, AliTHUK MIDDLETON. LF.TTPR 3S7 ; '.: 11)'. ;ii!i LETTER XLII. JrUrnr Middletm to his Brother Edwin. V^Y DEAE BBOTHEE, Chcpc^yan F.rt. I ONCE more begin my journal at this place, though I shall probably finish it at a great distance; as Mr. Franklin and I are sotting off agam, w,th Mr. Roseberry, for a distant expedi- tion to the south-westward. Mr. Roseberry is auracted th.ther by the hopes of establishing a profitable trade w.th the tribes that inhabit those parts and of discovering a passage westward,! the Pacific Ocean; and we are drawn by the mouve that has already led us so long a dance- cunosuy. Mr. Franklin says, that though we have seen the principal parts of the United States and Canada, with some of the Indian nations, yet he wishes to have a better acquaintance with those whose manners have not been changed by a com munication with Europeans. I shall write as opportunity and matter invite me: what follows, therefore, will be a recital of our voyage. We proceeded up the Peace Kiver, along a chain of lakes, the largest of which IS the Athabasca, and passed bv Pm™ T.„;„f which 'iif , { ' ft 11 1;' 1 i t i" r *' i I 328 which received its name by a treaty of peace beinc^ held there between the Kiiisteneaux and J}eavei Indians; as did the Slave River, from the con- quests of the Knisteneanx, who drove the inhahit- ants near Portage la Loche to a distance, and then called them slaves. A fill of twenty feet oblio-cd us to unload our canoes, and carry them and our luggage across a carrying place. The country we had hithert'^ passed was low, swampy ground well clothed with wood. The banks of tbe river between this ])lace and Mr. Mackenzie's establish- ment, were generally lofty, and produce cypress, arrow-wood, and thorn-trees. On either side of the river, though not within sight of it, are ex- tensive plains, which abound in buffaloes, elks v7olves, foxes, and bears. The Deer Mountain SLretches out to the westward; and opposite to the ebtablishment are beautiful meadows, adorned with irregular groves of poplar, and enlivened by herds of various animals. At this place our ears were frequently regaled with the sweet notes of a small bird, not so large as a robin; the neck, breast, and belly of the cock, are of a deep scarlet; part of the body is of a delicate fawn-colour; the win^j-s are black, edged with fawn, and have two white stripes running across them; the tail is variegated, and the head crowned with a tuft. The hen is of sl simple fawn-colour, except a tippet of glossy yellow. The Establishment, or Fort, as thes j trading- houses are called, consists of plain boarded houses, for ceased ex cutting of] ment, anc the nail fj the flesh b On expre; that she h, fingers, as of her SOI to shed te they someti they may 8«9 ibr the accommodation of tho tradnr^ ; • and is provided with a <.ard n~ t f '''"'"'' . gaiuen, that ffrows turninc carrots, parsnips, ,x.tatoes, and cabbages. S ow en,omh of December, and tlAostsos ^^ that the workmen's axes became as brittle as Zs determined us to halt here a few weeks T ,1' weather was sometimes extreme!, st^^' ^^ canes of wmd, snow, rain. and\ail, L^Z, onfined us within the house; a rest aintTha" [ ;1 1 r^: :ir^^^^^^^ -'■'^'^ ^-^ - - ^p. occasions * ""'""'"S "'^"- «"^to™« on particular occasions. A young man, called the Swan lost ' - .fh- by an accident. He immediate./; ,d .silence to his lodge, and fired his gun sev rli t.mes as a notice to his friends not ,o intZlo »pon his retirement, because, f,.ni his misf^r u^ l.e was grown careless of life. The wife of th de ceased expressed her grief by cries and tears and cutting off her hair. She then took a sharp Lru ment, and, with a determined resolution, separated .enai from one of her fingers, and f reed ' Je flesh beyond the first joint, which she cut off Z T^^TTf "^ astonishment, she showed me .at she had ost the first joint of her two other fingers, as tokens of grief for the death of two f her sons. The men consider it a disgrace shed tears when they are sober; therefore, ey sometimes drmk till they are intoxicated, tha ftcy may indulge freely in lamentations. The women % nw 830 women are the slaves of their husbands. They carry heavy loads, and perform the most laborious tasks, whilst their imperious masters walk by their sides with nothing but a gun in their hands. If a spot be chosen for an encampment, the men sit quietly down and enjoy their pipes, leaving the women to fix poles in circles, that meet at top like a tent, and then cover them with dressed moose-deer skins, sewed together. During the winter, they wear snow-shoes, to enable ihem to traverse the surface of the country, which is a con- tinued sheet of snow at that season. The frames of these shdes are made of birch -wood; and the nettings, of thongs of deer-skin. A very sudden alteration in the season, from the severest incle- mency of winter to the delightful beauties of spring, gave us notice it was time to put ourselves again on march. Though the river was still co- vered with ice, the plains were of a verdant colour; the trees and shrubs in bud, and some of them in flower. This was the middle of April. All things being ready, we set out in our canoes, and en- camped where groves of poplars, in every shape, vary the scene; and the open plains between them are enlivened with vast herds of elks and buffaloes. These pleasing scenes, which continued for miles, were succeeded by high white cliffs. As we ad- vanced, a river falls in from the north. There are also several islands and small streams on both sides. We perceived, along the shore, tracks of iprp wf>i lar se I 8S1 large bears. I was gratified by the sight of tlie den, or winter quarters, of one of these ajiimals. They are a fierce species, and called the Grisly Bear. The den was ten feet deep, five feet hio-h, and six feet wide. ^ We saw some straggling parties of Rocky Mountain Indians. Mr. Roseherry prevailed, by presents and promises, with one of them, to accompany us as a guide; but it was with great reluctance that his father consented to it. « My son, (said he,) your departure makes my heart pamful. The white people may be said to rob us of our children. They are going to lead you into the midst of our enemies; and perhaps you will never more return to us. AVere you not with the chief, (by which he meant Mr. Roseberry,) I know not what I should do: but he requires your aU tendance, and you must follow him." The banks of the river were diversified with woods, clay, rocky cliffs, and earths of red, green, and yellow colours, which I think might be used in the composition of paints. In some places, rivers fall into the main stream; and in others are numerous islands. Poplar and white birch-trees are common ; and the country is so thronged with animals, as to recal the idea of a stall-yard. The rocky mountains, with their snow-capped sum- mits, now became visible. After toiling against a strong current, we landed on an island, on which *"""'* "'frA oin'lif »-l^r.^««. — 1 1_J rrii -1^ vj^w,u wtowii-uu lucigus, ine natives had ipff* •tr^ 382 had prepared bark for several canoes; and we per- ceived traces of a road, along the hills where they had passed. Near it we saw a ground-hog; and in some places the earth had been turned up by the bears, in search of roots: and over the shore hovered two cormorants, which were probably- watching for fish in the river. Soon after this, we had great difficulties to encounter, from eddies, currents, cascades, and rapids, in the river, which was bounded, particularly on one side, by a range of steep, overhanging rocks, beneath which tlie current drove our canoe, with almost irresistible impetuosity. Here are several islands of solid rocks, covered with a small portion of verdure which has been worn away by the constant fmxe of the current. The under part of these islands is so much diminished, probably by the friction of ^ ice at the water's edge, that they have the ap- pearance of large tables, supported by a pedestal. Their principal inhabitants are wild geese, which were, at this time, breeding and rearing their young. Our Indian guide alarmed us so much by his account of the dangers of the navigation, that Mr. Roscberry, myself, and two of the people, ascended the bank, which was very high, that we might reconnoitre the country before us. As we passed through the woods, we came to an enclosure, which had been formed by the natives for snaring the elk, which was so large, we could not discover its i; lure, 333 uic lortst, winch consisted oF th« o , • ^ and u.e ia.,e. popi«. .;L: :t ;::i': t people had roaCod, after inexp.-essibl ,a.i. ,e and ange... An Indian was then sent fo.-ward „: hore o exunnne the passage, who returned at the loi' f evemng wtth an alanning aeeount of the obta d s bel«re us. Our difficulties increased everl "» e. In passing the foot of a rock, we were obli god to cut steps in it, for the distance of twenty ee " mm whtch Mr. Franklin, at the hazard of hj Jfe, leaped on a stnall rock beneath, and received our of he men on his shoulders, who, with grl^ labour dragged up the canoe, and in the attfZ injured her. With the branches of a dry tree tZ i.ad /alien from the upper part of the rock! we Jade a ftre, and repaired our bark, which we towed along the rocks to the next point; though not without .sk.ng the safety of the n^en, who tere obliged to pass on the outside of tr»„o .i,„. ._ ° of the Ureciiiioe. Tt at grew on the edge 1 f r»/-V»ir l»Q„ 'ame necessary to cross m It the sail the stream, where the water was so rapid, that sonic of the j)eo|)le prepared themselves for swim- ming for their hves, by stripping to their shirts. Often we were compelled to unload and earry every thing but the canoe over the rocks; and indeed it required great exertion to prevent her from being dashed to pieces against them, by the violence of the eddies. At length, the agitation of the water was so great, that a wave, striking on the bow of the canoe, broke the line, and filled mc, (who was on shore, assisting the men in towing,) with inexpressible terror, when I saw the vessel on the point of being dashed to shivers, and my friends, particularly my revered and beloved Mr. Franklin, in danger of perishing. No words can describe my feelings at that alarming moment; but another wave tran(juillizod my fears, by driving her out of the tumbling water, when, by the united efibrtsof^ the men, she was brcuglit on shore, where we j)ilched our tents, to give time for consideration on the course we should pursue; for as far as tlie eye could reach, the river appeared one white sheet of foaming water. Finding the succession, of rapids and cascades impassable, Mr. Roseberry| determined to attempt ascending the mountain] with the baggage and canoe: an undertaking that' must have been impracticable, but for the imited courage and perseverance of Mr. Roseberry and Mr. FrankHn, who encouraged the men by their example and firmness, to perform what many would have 335 ''"oy were obliged .o ..,;r.ec,r:7-'' 'f fro. rl.e side of the river to ufe"'' " '""^"^^ ceivcd ourselves surrn.m.1 i i P^^" hi-hcr xvh T '"''°""^^^ ^y mountains still took Jn T. ""' ^°^"'^^ -^h -ow. We took up our abode for the niirhf nn • V that issues from a large Zsft " '""^'^ tl"s unpleasant march, we saw spruce red nin. cypress, poplar, red birch, wilj, luelJZ' wood, red-wood, liard, service-t;ee and C P'oant, which rises about nine feet k ' w^ „' jonts wuhout branches, and is tufted^t IheTnd somesfpn,. k;i]„ ._j ., [ ^^'^^^"^ ^^^ us down rn a wood of tali i.Hli pines. After 336 After all this toil and trouble, we reached the river above the rapids, without any material accident and once more entrusted ourselves to the watery element. There were mountains on all sides of us; one, especially, of a very great height. The tiver becttiiie extremely wide, and full of islands, whicli again clianged to more confined bounds, and a smooth, strong current. With some vari- ations we proceeded to a beautiful sheet of water, which was seen to advantage from the rays of a brilliant sun sparkling on its surface. At the ter- mination of this prospect, the river was barred with rocks, forming cascades and small islands. There was likewise a chain of mountains running south and north, as far as we could see. We at length arrived at a fork, where the river separates into two branches. By the advice of our guide, we took that which inclined to the east. In the course of this day's voyage, we observed a vast number of beaver-lodges. In some places these active, sagacious animals had cut down several acres of large poplars; and we saw a groat number of them. The time which these wonderful crea- tures allot for their labours, either in erecting their curious habitations, or providing food, is the whole interval between the rising and the setting sun. Of late, tlie weather had been extremely cold: it now suddenly changed to a degree of heat that we found overpowering. This alteration brought back our old tormentors the gnats and musquitoes; iind 337 and we were frequently incommoded with heavy rams and thunder-storms. ^ Having already passed beyond the knowledge of of the course we should pursue to come to the se " e object we had in view. A smell of fi Ind aoie to our wisliPQ' Vmf *^i, • wi&nes, but the natives were shv nnrl for some time concealed themselves. A fe'nl t^o men ventured to an eminence opposite ot' brandishmo' their ^np^r^ r i • * t, meir spears, displaying? their bow« and arrows, and with Jn,,^ u . hostilp ^; V '^°"^'' expressing a hostile disposition. Our interpreter was some tm.e before he could persuade' the. CI Zl ^-ds, w^K> visited their country only fro. c^ osity. As soon as we landed Mr T?«c u •ook each of them by the hand 'o"fZ as a token of submission, drew a knife from I",' keve, and presented it to him, shaking with f at the same t.me. Their party consisted only^ three men, three women, and a few boys and Jrl. They examined us, and every thing about us. with the most mmute and suspicious attention, doubt jng yet whether we were friends or enemies ^ had heard, mdeed. of white men, but had never ,Z any before, which readily accounts for thr^m elr r'T"" ''''" '^""' "'■ ^^"^ did not exceed five feet s.x or seven inches in height. l'>ey had meagre countenance^ though .1--- 't.. "9 — vr_^jj «,m,n lUWa rnhv: ii IPH! m i' i-^ ' t were 338 were round, which might be attributed to the hard- ness and uncertainty of their fare. They had high cheek-bones, and small dark-brown eyes, witli hair of a dingy black, hanging in loose disorder over their shoulders; and their complexion was of a swarthy yellow. Their dress consisted of robes, made of the skins of the beaver, the ground-hog, and the rein-deer, dressed in the hair ; and of the moose-skin, without it. All of them were orna- mented with a fringe, and some of them had tassels hanging down the seams. The tails of the animal were left hanging on those made of the skin of the ground-hog, which served instead of tassels. They tie these robes over the shoulders, and fasten them round the middle with a belt of green skin, as stiff as horn. Their leggins and shoes resemble those of the odier tribes. The women's dress is much the same, except the addition of an apron that reaches to the knees. Their hair is divided from the forehead to the crown, and drawn back in long plats behind the ears. As destitute as these people are of every thing we Europeans call comfort, they wear bracelets of horn and bone; and the men only have the privilege of being adorned with necklaces, made of the claws of the grisly or white bear. Their arms are spears and bows and arrows, which, with their knives and tools, are pju-tly made of iron; a circimistance that convinced Mr. Rose- berry they had communication with some of the tribes that border the sea-coast; though they either could thithe them us SUi sturge them I thickn( to hoi lines a parted express and tw repaid c'd, with berry as bound t< as his a passed a tain, \vh the Bea^ this moui successioi almost tc snow, am direction branch, at The strea ' of small h geese, an< I parsnips. I lie liard- lad high I'ith hair 3tT over as of a f robes, ind-hog, 1 of the 'e orna- 3 tassels i animal 1 of the They m them , as stiff le those s much on that ed from in long people omfort, he men d with : white arrows, Y made . Rose- of the ' either r\^~*>9 1 I ^ w/uxv«. 539 us snares made of JL 1- ^^ '^"""^^ sturgeon twine; If LI' T '° "" '^^ "^ ">- are twisted toget e tev , " " "■"'" "' thickness of a cod-life 'et ll ""' """"'"^ '^' '0 hold a n,oose-de": 'tu7 '" ''""» ^"""^h lines are made nf n , ""' ^"'^ «*!"« parted „ T^end v" * '"' "^"'<^^- ^^^ ed, with our ne,v J,Ao „1 ^^'" ^'"''«'•''- ui iie;v guide, who regarded Mr n passed a river on the left nf fT. / ^' ^® -"> which, fron. ts le / r f"' "' " '""""- the Boaver-Iodge Moun 2.''^f ™' ^ --/ "=':- tr;!; -~ '^trr: •w to theirri;rijr::./i: ::t =io:if~iir^:t"- -f ^-" branch, as he assumed I i"^"'"^'' "''='»- The stream we pursued "l u '°°" '''•™"''"'- of small lakes T si "t ™"f ^ ^"'^^•^^-" .eese, and ducks':.:: X:dtr%^"T.' ;i parsnips. Blue javs. y.lLl"^'! ^'"l'' ">'. -'''» w 'lift if, : I H i (.■ 340 tiful humming-bird, sported amongst the trees, which were principally spruce, white birch, wil- low, and alder. Here we reached the source of Unjigah, or Peace River, which, after a winding course through a vast extent of country, receiving many large rivers in its progress, and passing through the Slave Lake, discharges its waters into the Frozen Ocean. Having perceived a beaten path, we landed and unloaded where the natives had formerly encamped. They had left baskets hanging on the trees, in which we found a net, some hooks, a goat''s horn, and a wooden trap for taking the ground-hog. Here two streams tumble down the rocks into the lake we had left; whilst two others fall from the opposite heights, and glide into the lake, to which we now committed our- selves, without an apprehension of the dangers and sufferings that awaited us. In the midst of a rapid current our canoe struck, and notwithstand- ing all our exertions, the violence of the stream drove her sideways down the river, and broke her by the first bar. We all instantly jumped into the water; but before we could, with our united force, either set her straight or stop her, we came to such a depth of water, that we were obliged to re-embarlf with the utmost precipitation. We were scarcely seated, when she drove against a rock, t^^hich shattered the stern in such a manner, that the steersman could no longer keep his place. The violence of this shock drove us to the opposite side side < fate seizec of br elaetic on sh( that e too g] fate; cascad torn o the wa In thi yards, whelmi ed, anc we cair from tl we wen calling whom rescued escape our mi{ stock being ii canoe so this dep thought return. we came 341 fot I'th "r "'"" "" '"" "'^•' -"> "- -"- su.ed on some branches of a .mall tree, in hopes on shore .„ an .„s,ant, with a degree of violence -at endangered his life. B„t our o'wn danger w too great to leave us leisure to enquire into his ate; for ,„ a few moments, we came across a ascade that broke several large holes in the bot- tom of the canoe. The wreck becoming flat on the water, we all jumped out, and held ftst to it. In th>s s«uat.on we were forced several hundred yards, with the constant expectation of being over-' whelmed. When our strength was nearly exhaust- ed, and every one began to think death inevitable we came to shallow water and a small eddy, where' from the weight of the canoe resting on tl^ stones,' we were enabled to stop its further progress; and e. Ihng to the people on shore for assistance, amongst wl>om we espied the foreman unhurt, we were rescued from this imn.inent danger. The joy of escape was so great, that we scarcely considered our misfortune as it really deserved; our whole -tock of balls, and some other useful articles, bemg .rretrievably lost by this accident, and our canoe so shattered as to be xmfit for service. I„ tins deplorable condition, most men would have thought of nothing but the speediest means of return. The resolution of Mr. Franklin and Mr. I if -I 1^*1 i!i;ii! ^: Roseb er ry S4>U Koseberry was not be shaken. They both were determined to overcome every obstacle within the power of man to subdue. They consoled the people, who were ready to despair, with kind attentions;' and alleviated their fatigue with rest, and the best refreshments they could provide. When they were well recruited, they animated their drooping courage by exhortations, and well-timed praises o^f their past courage, which, with the prospect of soon reaching a smoother river, had such an effect, that they declared they were ready to follow wherever they would lead them. Our first employment was to seek for bark to repair our canoe; a task not effected without difficulty. Several falls in the river, and the obstruction of trees that lay across it, rendered a passage impracticable for miles; and every man was obliged to assist in car, rying the canoe and the lading through a low, .swampy country, their feet frequently sticking in quagmires of mud. Wearied with this laborious exertion, we sometimes ventured to put the canoe into the water; but her progress was soon inter, rupted by the drift-wood and prostrate trees, which <;ompelled us to advance alternately by land and water, according to circumstances, till we joyfully arrived on the bank of a navigable river, on the west side of the first great range of mountains. Here I will close this part of my narrative. f] thinking it will be more convenient to you to MY underj the sti berry as pos rather small ( the riv« the mc far bef woods, gum of standing banks } crowned that, wi oth were ithin the »e people, temioiis; the best len they drooping •raises of t of soon 'ect, that vherever •loyaient ; a task falls in that lay ible for ; in car- a low, king in iborioLis e canoe 1 inter- , which nd and oyfully on the IS. rrative, >roii to divide ij.; S43 divide it. In another fetter, I shall relate the ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER XLIII. Jrthur Middkton to his Brother Edwin. MV DEAR BBOTHEE. ''""'""''" '"'■"''' "' ^""""*'''- THE excessive fatigues we had lately undergone, made it necessary to halt to recruit the strength and spirits of our men. Mr Rose berry was, however, anxious to re-embark as soon as possible. The country, for some way, was rather ow, and our view confined by woods, at a small distance from the banks. A little bevond the nver divided into two branches. We followed the most westerly course, and had not proceeded far before clouds of thick smoke rose Irom the woods, accompanied with a strong odour of the gum of cypress and the spruce fir; but notwith- standing that, we saw none of the natives. The banks here are composed of high, white cliffs crowned with piainacles in very grote.sque shapes,' that, with the assistance of a livBl., ;,„..„; :._ might >"■ ,., I 11 ■ iii II m ii ■en niiglit be compared to a succession of Gothic towers whilst the river at their base tumbled in cascader and impetuous whirlpools, that complete the ro mantle scenery. Tliis irregularity in the river once more obliged us to convey our crazy bark on the men's shoulders for more than half a mile over a most rugged, rocky hill. After this fatigue' we partook, with our brave fellows, of a refreshing meal of pemican, rendered savory with wild onions" that grew plentifully on the banks, which were overshadowed by lofty flrs and wide-spreading cedars. Our Indians shot the largest of two red deer, which came to the edge of the water to drink- and, from the number of their tracks, we suppose that they abound in this country. Many of the spruce-ti-ees had been stripped of their bark, pro. bably by the natives, to make coverings for their cabins. The shores now became of a moderate height, covered with poplars and cypresses. We passed a comfortable night under the shelter of an Indian Iiouse, deserted by its inhabitants. It was of considerable size, and had accommodations for three families. Behind the beds was a narrow space, a little raised, for the purpose of keeping fish. The walls wer^ formed of very straight spruce timbers, and the roof was of bark, supported by spars, resting on a ndge pole, fastened together by the fibres of the cedar Along the upper part of the building were fixed large rods, on which they hang their fish to dry. The most extraordinary piece of furniture left ii 345 left i„ this dwelling, was a machine to catch large hsh of such unwieldy dimensions, that the hous« must have been unroofed to let it in. It somewhat resembled an eel-basket in form, and was made of long p.eces of split wood, placed an i.ch asunder, on s.. hoops. A boat of the same material was added to «, mto which the fish may be driven, when they are to be taken out of the machine. O.I a point at a little distance, we discovered an oblong heap, neatly walled and covered with bark which we conjectured to be a tomb. Near it was Jxed a pole, ten or twelve feet high, with a piece of bark hanging to it, which might express some raeinonal of the deceased. Several rivers, from dLfferent .quarters, occasionally joined the main stream; and many islands appeared, on some of which we observed Indian houses, like that I have .fust described. The cliffs are of various colours and shapes. I„ one place they rose like anci<.nt caslles, of white and red day; and in another, the forms were equally grotesque, but of blue and yellow. We perceived a canoe with one man in it, who on seeing us, immediately gave the whoop, to alarm his friends on shore, who obeyed bis sum- mons, by their hostile appearance on the bank- being armed with bows and arrows, and spears! which they brandished, by way of defiance. According to our interpreters, they threatened us with mstant death if we should of to land; and. 1 1 m ! !!!l( Iti* q5 as 346 as a confirmation of that threat, discharged a volley o' arrows at us, which, however, passed over the boat without hurting us. As we stood greatly i„ need of information for our '',.'.. ,r^ course, Mr. Franklin offered to go alone to the beach op^site to where they were, hoping they would consider it as a mark of confidence, and an offer of friendship H's scheme succeeded. Two of them put off in a canoe, but had not courage to land, tiii he had in- vited them by a display of looking-glasses, beads, and other alluring trinkets. At length they ven. tured to land; and were persuaded to sit down and suffer on. interpreters to approach, who as. sured them of our friendly intentions. We were now admitted to join their friends on the opposite shore, amongst whom Mr. Roseberry distributed presents, and treated their children with sugar. In reply to his questions concerning the country before us, they told him that the river runs a vast way towards the mid-day sun; and, at its mouth, as they had heard, white people, who came in canoes as big as islands, were building houses: that besides the difficulties of the navigation, which ,n many parts were great, we should suffer from the hostile disposition of the natives, who were of a ferocious character. This unwelcome intelhgence did not deter our leader from conti- nuing his design. He persuaded two of their people to go with us as conductors, and prepared lor our departure. I should remark, that this was a fishino" 34T «fisl,ing party, but j,„t arrived from a distance. "'te„d.„g ,o pass the sunder here, U the at o^ P-,d.„ga store offish again, tho'win.er ^.y T """'y '" '""''-g »-cl.ines of the san.e kin. lal that we had seen in the deserted hou«o. The^ -ere dad i„ Wher, and had son.e beaver and rabbu sbn blankets. Their manners and appear once nearly resemble those of the Hocky Mout tarn I„d,a„s. It was not long before 'we wer" SL^ri " '"""' 'y " ' -pp— " subterranean lioiiso, the rnnf ,a' „,i • i i Ur. 1 * "* which on V cou ri oe seen abovcffround T^n f c i / the J,.hnl.W . ^'''*'' ""^ "« ^^«^ driven "le Juliabitants awav Th*.,r i t*u.ij^. J riey however, annoirr*^ on a ne.ghbouring „,„u,.,,i; -,„ , ....^jr;; «^ »ak.„g the most frant. gestures, and ,.!.d;- thu. bo«s and arrows readv to shoot. Their robes were fastened round the neck; bu, the Sht of 2d ir'' "'""'' '"'8''t be used as a kini gam their cunfidonce and friendship. An elderlv man who seemed to b. a person' of a^.t ^ "^ sketched o.a something li..e alp of the mu;?^ for our guidance, on a piece of bark; though I'e eouidno,^.elp expressing his .stonishment ar M Roseberry's en juiries, as be said he thought wiL men knew every thing. Mr. Koseberr^ 'd sloul ■ of «.ntammg this idea of superiorit;, rephe^ ' "lat they certamly were acquainted with the pri„. cpal crcumstances of every part of the world; but I / i \i I 348 but that he did not know the obstructions he miMit meet with in passing down that river, as weiras those who lived on its banks. Being assured from reports of this people, who are called the Atnak tribe, that the navigation would be long and difficult, if not impracticable, Mr. Roseberry determined to return up the river, as far as the Nagailers, or Carrier Indians, the last nation we had seen,* and then endeavour to penetrate to the sea over land. Our canoe was in such a crazy condition, that it ^as scarcely safe for service. A young man, who had promised to go with us to introduce us as friends to the next tribes, chose to go by land, and engaged to meet us at the subterranean house: on seeing him again, he assured us that there was a plot to destroy us, or prevent our progress. Ac cordingly, wherever we landed, the houses were deserted, and every thing left to our mercy, in such haste had the inhabitants abandoned them. A ge- neral terror seemed to have possessed them and our men equally, who were earnest to return home; but the firm composure of Mr. Roseberry, second! ed by Mr. Franklin, deterred them from their pro- ject. We passed a painful night under the remains of a broken shed, two of us watching whilst the rest slept. Towards morning, as it was my turn to keep on the look-out, I was surprised by a rus- tling in the woods, and incessant barking of our faithful dog. I kept my eye fixed on the part I 349 some hnig hke a man, creeping „n all-fours I called up Mr. Roseberry „i,,L d,,^^;^;^ , proved .o bo an old, grey-l.eaded. blind r^an.wh ad been dr.ven by extreme hunger ,o leave I h.d.ng.pace. From him we learned that the peo ' ' 'nten ion, and, from a motive of self-defence h„H ..andoned their habitation, and disperSir. agam. Th, mtelhgence was most unwelcome to all our party who wished to pursue the object tha firl cirew us mto the uncultivated wilds; as we w knew u would be impossible to proceed witlluT gu.de, and our young man had fled with ihUt Our s.tuat,on was now every way alarming; J r n.en were .„ ,11-humour, approaching to rebe lio our provisions and ammunition ran Thort; and"; natives were not only jealous of our desgn , b I extr: 'vr-'. \''°'" """'"^ "^- " execution. We occasionally saw a few straggler, either in canoes or on the shore: our entreaffes to them were unavailing: they fled from us, as if .he^ were afraid ofa pestilential infection. ^ The canoe was become so leaky, that we were under the necessity of building a new one. ThI Wind man, whom we fed and won by kind treatment, directed us to a place where we ™ight get plentv of cedar i 11 r i I 350 cedar and bark. Every man had his part assio-necl hira; and in a day or two the work was finished, much to Mr. Roseberry's satisfaction. This gave the men fresh spirits; especially as we perceived two men in a canoe, who landed on the island where we then were, and one of them was our guide, who declared he never intended to desert us, but that he had been all this time seeking for his relations, who had been seized with the general panic. He was covered with a painted beaver robe, so that we scarcely knew him in this new garb. During our stay on this island, we were inexpressibly teased by the sand-fly, and were obliged to be put on the short allowance of two meals a day. One of our repasts was composed of the dried rows of fish, pounded and boiled in water, thickened with a small quantity of flour and a little fat. You may smile at our cookery; but use and necessity reconciled us to it, and gave us, at least, the advantage of the habit of moderation and content- ment with ])lain fare, which is valuable in every situation of life. We had some difficulty in repassing the rapids, but not so great as before. We fell in with a party of the Nascud Denee Indians, whose friendship was secured by our guide, who, as a reward for his fidelity, was dressed by Mr. Koseberry in a jacket, trowsers, and European hat. Here we were obliged to leave our canoe, with such things as were too bulky to carry on our assigned finished, his gave erceived e island was our 3 desert king for general er robe, w garb, ressibly be put One of of fish, with a You ?cessity ist, the ontent- L every rapids, I party ndship rd for ' in a f, with n our 351 I ^ 6acks. In order to preserve them against on. "^ "''""'' '"' r^'^d « «»-t of stage, on which the canoe was placed, bottom upwards, and defended ftom the sun by branches of trees. Near it wa, budt a long square of logs, to contain the rest of our treasure. Having taken these precautions, we rvi r ""P-'-' J->-ney by land, each man cmiymg a load of pemican on his shoulders, and an equal weight of ammunition, besides his gun. Ihe first day we marched twelve miles, through I "r*''' "'""f V^g^d P-th, and were glad to repose i °;" "'^^'■y 1"»»'^ at an Indian camp of three fires i A party from the westward joined us, and raised I our hopes by the assurance that it was not more I han e,ght days' journey to the sea. They proposed to send two young men before us, to prepare the natives for our approach, and ensure us a favourable reception, which was thankfully accepted We followed our guides along the edge of a lake through thick woods, and without any path for some distance. We then crossed a creek, and entered upon a beaten track, through an open country, sprinkled with cypress-trees. At noon the sky became black and a heavy gust with rain succeeded, attended with a violent hail-storm. The ground was covered with hail-stones of an uncommon size, such as we had never seen before; and as the rain continued we fixed up a thin, lighl, oil-clotb, to shelter us Horn It, and under this covering wc passed the night. * 352 night. The next day we travelled along a level country, embellished with fir-trees: but as we had seen no water, we suffered from intolerable thirst. The natives that we now fell in with, bore a different appearance from any we had yet seen. Amongst them was a woman, who had come from the sea-coast: she was rather corpulent, of low stature, had grey eyes, and a flattish nose. She was dressed out in various finery, such as large blue beads, either hanging from her ears, braided in her hair, or encircling her neck. She also wore bracelets of brass, copper, and horn. Her under dress wus a kind of tunic, covered with a robe of matted bork^ fringed round the bottom with sea- otter skin. Ihese people appear to treat age with the greatest reverence and affection; for we observ- ed an old wuman, who from extreme age was quite blind and ufiable to walk, whom they carried by turns on their backs. They are equally attentive to the memory of their deceased relations, as ap- peared from a middle-aged woman, whom we saw earnestly weeding a circular spot; and on enquiring the cause of this care, from which our approach did not in the least disturb her, the by-standers informed us, that the ashes of her husband and her son were buried there; and that she never passed that way without paying this tribute of lier regard. As we advanced, the country became more thickly i 353 thickly inhabited. By the good.oifiees of our couners, we had generally a hospitable reception, and were sometimes regaled with a few dried fish. VVe frequently changed our guides, few bein.. wjlhng to go wuh us a great way from home; but when they reached the extent that suited their con- venience, they transferred us to others, who in their urn escorted us as far as they chose, or perhaps a, long as they had any personal acquaintance with the inhabitants. The West-road river crossed our path: we lorded a about knee-deep and a hundred yards w.de. Twelve dreary miles wo passed ovJr an extensive swamp, i„ which we were often over the ankles: an evil that was increased by rainy weather, Jn this part of the road we were struck with the singular appearance of several regular basins : some were filled with water, and others were empty; but whether they were natural or artificial could not be ascertained. We arrived at the banks of ano ther considerable river, abounding with fish, which afforded us an agreeable change of food; game of ail kinds having been unaccountably scarce. We proceeded beneath a range of beautiful hills; and beyond them, to the south, we discovered the tops of mountains covered with snow. The river being too deep to ford, we crossed it on a raft, and then marched till we reached two houses pleasantly situated. We entered them, and found them without inhabitants; but as the furniture was not removed. J554i we supp )sed the owners were at no great distance. Near thf m were several graves or monuments of the dead, w.\ich the natives greatly revere, and never suffer rti.y weeds or grass to grow upon them. A little beyond we fell in with a party of Red-fish men, who appt ared more healthy, cleanly, and agreeable, than any of the natives we had yet seen. They told us there were but a few days' journey to the sea. They showed no signs of alarm at our appearance; nor did they express more than surprise at the sound of our fire-arms, though one of our hunters killed an eagle in their presence. A most uncomfc table succession of rainy weather increased the difficulties of our journey : we were often drenched to the skin, and obliged to halt to dry our clothes, This part of the country is intersected with rivulets, lakes, and swamps. All our guides having deserted us, we were at a loss which way to proceed ; and under great appre- hensions from the natives, who, unapprised of our approach, or the design of our journey, might mis- take us for enemies, and treat us as if we were so. In this state of uneasiness and doubt, we suddenly came to a house built in a verdant plain, near the side of the river. Mr. Roseberry, with his usual courage, entered it alone. The women and children, on beholding him, uttered the most horrid shrieks, believing that they were attacked by enemies, and that they should be all immediately massacred. A man man fore A manr preva who, panic voice. ed in pleasu than c the fir and, tl ported trees, t This fc tinous < Our times c their ri march \ that, ai should houses, a tomb 1 very coi they sc larger I hung on •ions th( 355 man that was with them fled out at a back door, Be. fore Mr. Roseberry could prevent his flight A display of beads and trinkets, with gentleness of rnanner., gradually allayed their apprehensions, and prevaned wt.h the women to bring back the man. who, after repeated efforts, returned with a com- pan.cn who harangued us in a very loud tone of vo.ce. Ihe purport of his address was, that he trust- ed .n our mercy, and we might kill him if it was our pleasure; though he hoped for our friendship, rather tha., our enmity. Having conciliated then, by gifts, the first man and his son agreed to accompany us and, that they might not be burdensome, they sup. ported themselves by fishing, and the inner bark of trees, that they stripped off" with a thin piece of bone Th.s food .s very agreeable to them, and is of a glu. t.nous quality, with a clammy, sweet taste. Our path now wound over the mountains; some- times chmbing the steep ascents, then descending the.r rugged sides. The fatigue of this laborious march was alleviated by the assurance of our guides, that, at the termination of this high ranae we should reach the ocean. We passed a number of houses, but never saw one in this count.-y without a tomb belonging to it. Our present guides were very communicative; from then, w? learned that they sometimes burned their dead, except the larger bones, which are rolled i.p m bark, and hung on poles near the tomb. On other occa. Bons they bury the corpse, and when the same family S56 family lose another relation, the remains of the person last interred are taken out of the grave and burned : so that the individuals of the same family make room for each other, and one tomb serves a whole race through succeeding generations. The face of the country continued much as I last described it. We met with several rivers of dif- ferent magnitudes: some we forded, and others we crossed on rafts; though, if the current was not too strong, I generally preferred swimming, an exercise in which I am become very expert. We were joined by a numerous party of men, women, and children, of a most friendly disposi- tion, who said they were going on a fishing expe- dition; and as their road was the same as ours, they offered to travel in company, which was very agreeable to us. Their aspect was very pleasing, and their complexion fairer than the tribes we had hitherto seen; perhaps because their skins were in a more cleanly condition. The women wore their hair tied in large loose knots over the ears, and neatly platted from the division of the head. These tresses were intermingled with beads, disposed with some degree of taste. The men were dressed in leather, and their hair nicely combed. Every man, woman, and child, carried a load of beaver- coating and parchment, skins of the otter, marten, bear, lynx, and dressed moose-skins, in proportion to their strength, which they intended to barter with the people of the sea-coast, who sell them to white 357 >vhite men that visit these parts, as they told us, in canoes l.ke Seating houses. At noon we sat down on a pka,aM «,eeu npot, to partake of our allowance of pen„c:„,, wuh wild parsnips for our sauce. VVlMlst we were thus employed, the leader of the party and one of his companions engaged in a sort of game. They had each a bundle of about fifty small sucks, neatly polished, of the size of a quill and five inches long: some of these sticks had red hnes round them, and as many of these as one of the players chose, were curiously rolled up in dry grass, and Ins antaganist lost or won, according as he guessed their number and marks. The loser parted witn a bow and arrows, and several other articles. A sudden caprice determined our new companions to change their route, and transfer us to other guides- though not till they had increased our exhausted store of provisions, by a kettle of boiled fish roes mixed, to the thickness of a pudding, with strong' rancid oil. These strangers led us through woods, to the banks of another river that flowed from the mountain: the country beyond it was swampy, and encumbered with a multitude of fallen trees. Having passed this tract, we began to ascend; and though surrounded by mountains covered with snow, we were much teased with musquitoes. In one of the valleys, at the foot of a mountain, we saw a great number of moles; and presently afterwards perceived many ground-hogs, and heard them whistle in every direction. We now gained a barren 'Mi! 358 barren summit, unenlivened with verdure or shrubs. Here we were attacked by a violent hurricane of wind, hail, rain, and snow, and could find no other shelter tlian the leeward side of a huge rock. A stupendous mountain rose before us, whose snow- clad summit was lost in the clouds; but the river to which our course was directed rolled between us and it. As we proceeded, we seemed to leave the mountains and descend into the level country; and, in our way, saw larger and loftier elder and cedar trees than we had ever seen in any countrv. We followed the tract of our guides, who had gone before us, to a village, where we arrived late in the evening. Mr. Roseberry, with his accus- tonicd courage, entered the first house without waiting for an invitation. The people were busy in cooking fish: they directed us by signs to go to a lai'ge house, erected on upright posts, at some dis- tuiice from the ground. A broad piece of timber, with steps cut m it, formed the entrance, by which we ascended and passed three fires, at equal dis- tances, in the middle of the building. Several people, seated upon a very wide board, at the upper end of it, received us kindly, and directed a mat to be placed before Mr. Roseberry, Mr. Franklin, and myself; and then brought a roasted salmon for each of us, distinguishing us from our people, to whom they gave only ']a!f our portion. Our meal was finished by two large dishes of salmon roes pounded fine; i other i we too us agai as goc and, in; river al the chie f them w I j order tc I j contrive< il great in, place th M weir. 1 which ]\ through of fish ft the salmc M^as a hu; not well animal res inward, lij fliat inhab It,) seem fish, in a their supe: au-e not H iest we she smell of V us hberaJJ^ fin 91 ' shrubg. icane of no other )ck. A e snow- he river between ;o leave ountry; r elder in any cream, the 359 fine; one beat up with water to a £ order to secure a quantity of this nI }^\ -rived an e^Unk^ent L .ei:;itt'r Td 1,1 great mgenuity across the river, near whirl. ,1 PW their machines, hoth abo've'I, tl'Z jrou.h .hich it passes. ^ i;:;!;; ~ f fish found here, called dUJy: it i, broader h^ he sal„,on, ,ts colour is inclined to grey and ^ '- a hunch on its back: the flesh if wWte bt ot w^l flavoured. The jaw and teeth "f thl "iwaid, like the claws of a bird of prev Th. t.u >at inhabit the Friendly Village, ffoT^o we n^tl ) -em to hold all kinds o/auLal food! ^e;' feb, .n abhorrence; nay, so far do the; cZ 'inTS'T ''^^ °" ''•'^ P-'' *- '^^V ^ not wJ ing to permit us to depart by water -.iTvTntf i: ?h '* ""'" ''' ^^-^' -^^ '^' V* vtijison in the canoe A« fK«,r t i "^ iiber^Iv with salmon, we lea^o^TenZX ordeF > If 360 order to give them satisfaction, and took our leave in a canoe procured from the natives. I cannot relate the progress of our journey, without first describing the dress of our hospitable friends, which consists of a single robe, tied over the shoulders, reaching behind to the heels, and before only to the knees, with a deep fringe round the bottom. These robes are generally made of the bark of the cedar-tree, which is prepared as fine as hemp: some of them are interwoven with strips of the sea-otter skin, thatgivo them the appearance of a fur on one side. In addition to this robe, the women wear a close fringe, hanging down before in the shape of an apron. The men smear their hair, which is worn in plats, with oil and red earth, which renders it impracticable to use a comb; they have, therefore, a small stick, tied by a string to one lock, to scratch their heads when they are trouble- some. They carry their children in a cradle slung over one shoulder, which is made of a frame fixed to a board and lined with moss. In rainy weather, instead of a great coat, the men defend then selves from the wet by a garment something like a smock-frock, made of matting, that throws off the water. With no small reluctance we left these benevo- lent strangers, who deputed seven of their coun- trymen to navigate our canoe, and attend us to the next village, which was situated at the distance of some miles. Their skill in managing the canoe ^■x." finrtrl l^tl 361 exceeded tl.at of our Canadians, „,,o are thought to excel most other nations in tl,at art ^ to g.ve notice of our approach to the inhabitants of he V , ,, ^^ ,^^^^ ^^_^ ants of of our arrnal put them into extreme confus on; and when we e„,„e, ,,,^ „^,.^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^nA M n ,"' '' '^P'-^P'-'-fe' to receive an encn... Mr. Koseberry, as our chief, walked „p to them wnh undaunted resolution, which quicL the r apprehens,o„s: tl.cy laid down their weapons, ad W:;f '•"""'' "-"'"''--o" curious Lnt' eJ^derly man broke from the multitude, and ook Mr. Roseberryin his arms, which rather alarL'd us who were behindhim: but we ourselves were presently treated in the same manner by othe™ when we discovered that these embraces were des-gned as a welcome; and, as a further token of good wdl, a young man pulled off a handsome robe of sea-otter skin, and placed it on Mr. Rose from the troublesome curiosity of th. populace, and conducted us to his own house, which wa ger and formed of better materials, than the rest. He directed mats to be spread before it, upon whtch we were desit^d to sit; whilst he a^d his counsellors placed themselves opposite tons, and the people kept a respectful distance. I„ the space between us, mats of very neat quality were laid, ^ which IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^° c^ 1.0 I.I |50 "l"^= IL25 III 1.4 — 6" M [2.2 20 1.6 c% I liUiUgiapillL. Sciences Corporation 23 WEST .MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 iV '"d^ %^ %^\^ *%"'''" 86S which served us for a table-cloth ; and we had a small roasted salmon put before each of us. We were next treated with cakes made of the inner rind of the hemlock-tree sprinkled with oil, which are esteemed a great delicacy by the natives. At close of day we were permitted to retire to a lodge erected for us. Salmon is their principal food, and abundantly supplied from the river, where we saw thousands of them strung on cords, and fastened to stakes fixed in the water. Tliey are as superstitious as their neighbours with respect to the river, and would not suffer us to dip o,ur kettle in it, lest the smell of ir6n should drive away the fish. It is likely that we often misunderstood their meaning, as none of our interpreters understood their language; con- sequently, we could have no means of conveying our thoughts to each other but by signs. The whole village contained only four elevated houseSj and seven built on the ground; besides a great many sheds, which served for kitchens and for curing their fish. The four houses that were raised on posts were of great length and breadth. In the middle were several hearths; which not only warm the apartment, but are used for cooking the fish. The whole length of the building is divided by cedar planks into small apartments. On poles that run along the beams, hang roasted fish; and the roof is covered with boards and bark, except a few open 363 open spaces on cacl. side of the ridge mlo lel't to admit the light and let ,he smoke ~ ' '" Near the dwelling of the chief were several oblong squares, built of thick cedar boards, and pamted wuh hieroglyphics and figures of different anunals, appropriated, as we supposed, to acts of devofon such us sacrifices, &c. There was also, n the middle of u.e village, a large open building hat I should call a temple, though rudely built supported by posts cut out into human figures in different attitudes. At one time we observed four heaps of salmon, each consisting of several hundred hsh, piled up before the door of the chiefs house Sixteen women were employed in preparing and cleaning them. After the head is cut off; it is boiled, and the flesh is partly cut from the back bone which is immediately roasted. The rest of the flesh IS also roasted, and kept for future use As the last act of hospitality, the chief ordered out h,s own large canoe, to convey us on our voyage. In this vessel, he told us, he formerly .v^nt a vast way, with forty of his people, towards the m,d.day sun, where he saw two huge vessels full of white men. This canoe was black, and adorned wuh representations of different kinds of fish,pamted white: the gunwhale was inlaid with the teeth of the sea-otter. We embarked in it, with several of the natives, and proceeded by a very rapid current, interrupted by some cascades. We passed a lew villages and detanh-'l l-o.-r- ,. -.!-; u • p o i;5 364 we occasionally landed. The inhabitants of one of them were engaged in different employments. Some of the women were beating the inner rind of the cedar bark, to a slate resembling flax ; others were spinning with a distaff and a spindle. One of them was weaving a robe of this material, intermixed with stripes of the sea-otter, on a frame placed against the side of the house. The men were fishing with drag-nets between two canoes. These nets are forced by poles to the bottom, the cunent driving them before it. Thus the salmon are intercepted by their nets, and by their struggles give notice when they are caught. Here the river is divided into numerous channels, which discharge into an arm of the sea. Porpoises, seals, and sea-otters, were sporting in the water; and one of our hunters shot a white-headed eagle. Our stock of provisions running very low, and the natives we had lately seen not offering us a share of theirs, we were obliged to make a meal upon a porcupine, boiled in small pieces. The coast is intersected with bays and inlets, and appeared to be tolerably inhabited, by the number of canoes that we saw paddling near the shore. We took our station on a projecting rock, shel- tered from the weather by one above it, and de- fended from any attack from the natives, by the difficulty of getting to it; which seemed a ne- cessary precaution^ as they did not appear well in- clined towards us, from the misrepresentations of a quarrelsome 365 a quarrelsome fellow, and two or three of bis com- rades, who inhabited the islands, and carried on a trade in cedar bark, fish spawn, copper, iron, and beads; which they barter for roasted snlmon, hem- lock-bark cakes, and cakes made of salmon roes, sorrel, and bitter berries. Having conducted you to the ocean, I must also bring this long epistle to a conclusion, and leave it to Mr. Franklin to rebate the events thatbefel us at this place, with some further remarks on the inha- bitants. Farewell. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. ^/^^^V^k^v^-V^ v%%%%%'V%%^it,%.VV%'« LEITER XLIV. M)\ Fratiklin to Echcin AJiddleion. MacTicnzie's Oiitkt. MY DEAR EDWIN, IN order to complete our narrative, I must continue Arthur's account of our reception amongst the inhabitants of the coast of the Pacific Ocean, who are a very different people from the Indians in the interior parts of the country. Their complexion is between the olive and the copper. Their small grey eyes have a tinge of red; and R 3 their 366 their Loads are formed like a wedge, wl.ieh arises Irom the custom of enclosing ,l,c Leads of i„fa„ts in boards covered wi,I, leather, till they attain tl.at shape. Many of their habits and modes of life differ a so much from the interior tribes, as you mnst have observed by your brother's account. One mornin. as we were consulting on the plan of onr return fo J-ort Chepewyan, a young chief, who had accom- panied ns as a guide, approached our encamnn.enf ^nh joy and astonishment in his countenance, telU ■ng us that some of our countrymen had arrived in a huge canoe, which lay behind a point of land in the channel to the south-west of us; and, as a proof of the truth of this story, he showed us an iMighsh hall,,enny, which he had received for some small fruit. You may believe this intelligence ^vas very agreeable to all our parly. The idea of meetmg, „, this remote part of the world, people whose manners resembled our own, and whose i„. terests were the same, was an inexpressible pleasure. We soon followed the young chief to the shore, where we saw a boat full of white men, attempting to land; and amongst the busiest of the erew, a ■.egro, m whom Arthur soon recognized his faithful sancho. 1 he vessel was an American trader, from he port of Salem; and the object of the voyage, Je sktns of the sea-otter, which they purposed to vtldV r"', ^''""'" '" ^'""^' «'-■""-" in- vested h.s httle capital in a share of the cargo: and ■n order to tralHc with it to the best advantage, made 367 made the voyage in person. The in^ i .expressions of reo-.rd «n / . "^^^^chango of I-er., treated us wkh 1 '"■■ ""''^'' "'""- ^between these stranger ati th ""^ '""'^ P'^^« '■-^er eolieeted a eofsider ^ nulC'T' ''" sk-ns, to which they added ,h„ " f ''''•°"<^'" «al«; whilst the shinr ^ '°"'^ °""^'- «"i- ■ pots and .' JtLir^s '-£r;' r ^™" ''•' V the gVod ffif:;'"7"™'''''->'hat should tneet there S '1^?'^' " "^ '"'ely -a convey „s to our native "' """ ''°"'^' explored the pr Ldpr.i r 7^ " ^^ ''^'' "°- America, and I h d 'o Lc i r ^'"^ °'" ^-'h the sa.o uncultivated ;::'r;:: T T,'™ "'™"«" from Fort Chepewyan I feh 7 ''''^'^^ P^^^-^^ Mr Roseberry^oZgg,f.;^ :;:'''";:'" '^^^'"^^ si.ch a journey alone- butt "" ''""'■•""'^^ "*" oftheproprie;o;:het^rt,::tr^""^r ■"y scruples. The c.n.n; • '^ "ver-ruled and readilv agree wUh " ' "■^""'"^Po-J man, ^efeir,.e%hfllTair inr'- ,^^"-vi„d -tinen.,,vhiehhaspres:nS:^::r |;\f - ^/v.^^i^ ci suc- cession 368 cession of different scenes, perhaps for ever. A recapitulation of the leading features of the chief districts of the country, may not be amiss, after the minute recitals you have received of our travels, in this Ions and varied excursion. The southern states are rich in vegetable pro- ductions, and abound in animals of various, kinds. They are inhabited by cultivators of tobacco, rice, and corn, who enjoy, in a luxurious mode of life, the produce of the labour of the wretched negro slave. The newly-established settlements to the westward are furnished liberally with natural productions. They possess a warm climate, immense forests, and magnificent rivers. The staple commodity is cotton, which is easily raised by the inhabitants, whose manners are simple and laborious, and who feci an independence from the equality of their condition. Vast tracts of this country are occupied by Indian nations, who are supported by the labours of the chase. The middle provinces are in a high state of cul- tivation, and present many large, populous towns, grown rich by trade, manufactures, and commerce. The useful arts of life, in great variety, occupy and enrich the people; v>^ho are more polished and luxurious than those who live to the westward of the Allegany Mountains, but less so than the wealthy planters of the southern states. The eastern coast is a woody, fertile tract, yielding pasture to numerous herds of cattle, which, with the timher 369 timber of the forests, and the fish of the ocean, forn, who are ether graz.ers, wood-c.tter., or sailors. 1 he Jakes, nvers, and cataracts of Canada, are on the grandest scale. The extremes of winter «nd «r are felt in this climate, but no n.iddle season The manners of the people, like their descent, are of irench ongin, and retain strong marks of their ancent customs. A happy, social, lively disposition i then- characteristic, and appears in all ranks, from the merchant in furs, (the great arlicleof their comm,, ;, j„ ,,,^ ^^^ ^,^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ffl'ghty St. Lawrence. The numerous tribes of Indians that live in the neighbourhood of the settle ments, supply the Canadians with the furs of different animals, which they often procure from vast distances, in the interior parts of the country The northern portion of the continent, that extends to Hudson's Bay, and reaches westward to the Pacific Ocean, is inhabited by wandering tribes of Indians, who do not cultivate the earth but procure a precarious subsistence from the chase of wild animals, the fish of the rivers, fruits that grow spontaneously, bark of trees, &c. Nor would the sod repay the labour of the farmer; for so ungenial is the climate, that the ground is never thawed at the depth of a few feet below the surface- not even in the height of the short summer that enlivens the dreariness of this barren region. The wind IS changed in our favour, and to-morrow is 370 IS fixed for our departure. Our friends expect the remainder of our tinu-, which compels me to say adieu. H. FRANKLIN. i- Mr Franklin and his young companion took an affectionate leave of Mr. Roseberry, and, with a degree of regret, departed from a country, where in the course of their excursions, they had received many instances of hospitality, and had formed a friendship with persons of worth and intelligence. Nothing remarkable happened in their voyage to Canton, except an accident that gave Sancho an opportunity of testifying his gratitude and at- tachment to his young master and benefactor. Arthur, being an excellent swimmer, was accus- tomed frequently to indulge himself with a plunge into the sea. On one of these occasions he was alarmed with the approach of a voracious shark, from whose attack there seemed no possibility of escape. Sancho, hearing his shrieks, jumped into the water, and, fearless of danger, rescued his terrified friend, by his superior dexterity, and brought him on his back in safety to the ship. This fortunate deliverance strengthened the mutual regard of Arthur and Sancho, as each had received from the other the most signal benefit, and rendered their obligitions equal ; though there was still a disparity in their circumstances, which Sancho never forgot, observing 371 observing the ,„ost rcpcc.f,,! conduct toward, h« .berator; who. on ,,s sid., endoavour..d,r evct Our travellers foun.I an English ve... 1 ,,t Cmton -ady to sail, in wind, they :n,barM.,iS do it d wit . h"""-" ""■'■• '"''"'' ■" g-' '-lib. wv.ugnica witn their return nnA tr^^rc • by .be tendercst marks of ^^Ir""^ '"' Airs Middleton viewed , he growth and improve mcnt of her son, who was nearly becc,.,e a ml -t unspeakable pleasure. His sLr.s and brol; ga be d , , ^^^^ ^^.^^^ numberless ;t lions, n too quick succession to wait for a reply After the first transports wereover, a calm succeld ' hat gave Arthur an opportunity of fully satisfying he r cuno.ty. The events of his journey furnislf ed topics of conversation for a very long time ,„d « a variety to the amusemenLf^thiH;;;' This ITL^ERARy. Piir New Tred J3iirli Dov( Willi Sciui Chcsi VVilir llavr hai iiallii Wash Geon Alexa Falls ( Moun Ger Monti Jeff Rock Madcli Passag aero Washi Hoe's Virgin Richm Williai York ITINERARY. PlirLADELPHIA New Jersey and Delaware Trenlon Hiirlington Dover Wilmington Schuylkill, crossed Chester Wilmington Havre de Grace^Siisque- hannah Baltimore Washington—Patowmac George Town Alexandria Falls of the Patovvmac Mount Vernon, the seat of General Washington Monticellc, the seat of Mr. Jefferson Rock Bridge Maddison's Cave Passage of the Patowmac, across the Blue Ridge Washington Hoe's Ferry Virginia Richmond—James River Williamsburg York Hampton— Janies Uiver Norfolk— Jumes River Dismal Swamp North Carolina Newbern South Carolina Charlestovvn— Ashley and Cooper Rivers East Florida Savannah Sunbury South Catherine Islands Alatamaha River Fort Barrington St. Mary's River St. John's River St. Augustine Lake George Taskawila Territories of the Seminole and Muskogee Indians Talahasochte— St. Juan Apalachuela Talassfie West Florida River Schambe Taensa Mobile Pensacola Pearl River Pearl l^ • ITINERARY. Pearl Island New Orleans Mississippi River Manchac The Natches V- "er Tenessee Nashville— River Cumber- land States of Tenessee Roaring River Territory of the Cherokees Kingstovvn Knoxville Fort Blount Greenville Jonesborough Allegany Mountains J31ue Ridge Mountains of Linneville Morgantown State of Kentucky Harrodsburgh Lexington Paris Millesburgh Washington, near Ohio Voyage on the Ohio Point Pleasai.t above the Mouth of the Great Ken- haway Alexandria and Galli|ioli, on ih:i Ohio Marietta, Wheeling, West Libert) Town, Conflu- ence of the Ohio and the Muskingham Pittsburg— Confluence of tlie Monangahela and Allega- ny Greensburgh Ligonier's Valley Laurel Hill Bedford R. Juniata Shippensburgh Carlisle York Lancaster Harrisburgh Siinbury — Susquehannah Northumberland Bethlehem, a Moravian Settle- ment Nazareth Easton-Confluence of Lehigh and Delaware State of New Jersey Halchetstown Morristown— R. Raritoa Fall of the Posaik New York Long Island Stamford Fairfield New haven Middleton Harford Norwich Connecticut New London Rhode Island Providence Kingham ITINERARY. r k'ttle- ; " a igham King ham Boston — Capital of England Salem Marbkhead Gloucester Cape Ann Newbury Port R. Merrimack Portsmouth Dover Exeter Derham R. Piscataqua Portland Brunswick Wiscasset R. Keunebcck Penobscot Boston Marlborough R. Connecticut Northampton Green Mountains Pittsfieid fJancock Mountain New Lebanon Albany Cohoz Hudson, or N. River Saratoga Fort Edward Fort Anne Skeenesboron'i;h Lake Champlain Ticonderago Crown Point New Canada St. Jolm's La Prairie Montreal Sorelle Quebec Trois Rivieres R. St. Lawrence La Chine Cockenonaga Village R. Utawas Lake of a thousand Islands Kingston Lake Ontario Newark, or Niagara Falls of Niagara Fort Chippewa/ P'ort Erie Lake Erie Middle Island Detroit River District of Maiden Detroit Lake Huron— Saganaum Bay— Manatoulin Isles Michillimackinack Course of the Traders from LaChinetoMichillimak. inack Portage de Chaudiere R. Rideau Lac desCiiaudieres Portage des Chats Grand Calumet Lake Coulonge Riviere (x Riviere dense R. (lu Moine Lake Nepisingui R. des Francois Lake Huron Michillimakinack Falls of St Mary Lake Superior Grande Portage Lake de la Pluie Outarde Portage Lake de la Sagnigan Galet du Bonnet Lake Winnipec Red RiTcr Portage de Trait6 Portage des Moits Isle h la Crosse ITINERARY. Portage la Loclie Fort Cliepcwyan Peace River Slave River Great Slave Lake Red-knife Indians Horn Mountain Great Bear Lake River Hare Indians Quarrellers River fullof Islands, discharg- inf^ its waters into the Ocean Return to Chepcwyan Peace River Peace Point Beaver Lodge Mountain Progress westward Ocean F i N I S. «%V««V»'« Dartotif Harvey f and Co. Printers Ciracechurofi-shcet, London. ke ins ;e River nds, discharg- nto the Ocean :wyan Viounlain ird