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Lee diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 '■■■ffll^" •-,.« ■^'.^V < ■; /-K f .#i'- VISIT TO CANADj^ l:-- 1^>. m i- ^i.Jit2:i..illii.. ... „,»».4K'-.V' ri^-,:.,- ->r,-*-|^,^' „'^ VfeiiifeF-i- '^^ . 1&^* VISIT TO THE i^robmce of mpptv Canada, IN 1819. BY JAMES STRACHAN. ABERDEEN : Printed by D. Chalmers 8f Co. Fon JAMES STRACHAN, ABERDEEN,* LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, LONDON; OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH; W. TURNBULL, GLASGOW; AND E. LESSLIE, DUNDEE. 1820. # T I- i^r i 'vf 1-: :o> u \ •-. ■ :» '•: ^*^ *l**' ADVERTISEMENT. c» XT is by 00 means the design of this Publication to pro- mote Emigration, or lightly to consider the difficulties and frequent miseries by which it is attended ; — my object in to point out the superior advantages which Canada offers to those who are determined to leave the British Islands for the Continent of America. The most exaggerated and false accounts have for many years circulated in Great Britain aud Ireland, of the en- couragement experienced by Foreigners, in the United States. In consequence, thousands have gone over, been disappointed, and ruinud. Yet the stream of emigration still flows with increasing vigour to that Country, while respectable Emigrants to Canada are comparatively few. The facts disclosed in this Work will, it is hoped, pro- duce, in this respect, a salutary change ; for when it is found that an Emigrant going to Upper Canada, well recommend- ed, gets a grant of one or two hundred Acres of Land for nothing, except the trifling fee of preparing it for Loca^ tion that he enjoys it nnder the protection of British Law3, and possesses all the privileges of a British Subject — that he has access to Religious Instruction, and the a 2 I. I p vi «.oan, of Edaoaliug hi. Child«„_that ,l,e rr . • ■■«i%. .„d .he has. .edic, .id .. ha i L'T J" danger from .1 . j- pwduce-i, i„ „„ cZ T ? I"<'.,„_„d receive, hi. .„pp|ie. „f wm ^ d„p„«d .„ g„ .„ .he „„i,ed s...,„ „^^^ ^, ;- things are reversed. ^^^^ .e rb, ' ;' " ■'"' ™^' -f <" -« eac„„„,t a " h:rr:r"'""^"°^«'''""-^"'-^«p<.": Kith th« ' r °''°' "'^'^ ""™^^" vvho went "•>" aay .he .rav^rl °''''°''"°'"'" "^ -'''"-ti„„, -NasaSSfc"* • - . ^ '. CONTENTS. Departure from Scotland-Voyage to Quebec-its Appear- «ncc-H6«pitelity of the prineipal merehanf^-Politle. of Lower t^iarfa— Arrival at Montreal, Kingston, and York, . „ g QussT. I. What are the limits .nd boundariea of Upper Canada? « _ '^^ Quest. II. What rivers and lakes afford water Communi- cation ? Quest. III. What is the ellmate of Upper Canada? Observations on the year 1810, General remarks. Quest. IV. How are Emigrants to get land on arriving in Upper Canada? Quest. V. Why does the stream of emigration ftow chief- ly to the United States, and not to Canada ? Quest. VI. How is the land cleared ? 36 40 43 44 49 53 62 75 Quest. VII. The land being cleared, what will it produce ? 87 The Falls of Niagara, Quest. VIII. What is the state of religion? Education of youth, QwissT, IX, The populfttipnimd militia. The constitution of Upper Canada, Quest. X. Are there many Indians ? Life of Captain Brant, Quest. XI. How is justice administered? Miscellaneous, Price of labour. Roads, Tythes, 118 123 127 IS3 117 144 149 169 171 178 179 ise l ) I, r • • • Vlll CONTENTS. Game lawi, . Fiali, Diseases, TranquUlity of Upper Canada, Concluition, ^ 181 182 ib. 184 197 APPENDIX. No. I. Mode of application at the seat of government of Up- per Canada for a grant of the waste lands of the Crown, and process to issue of the patent grant, . p. 203 No. II. Form of location ticket, . 2O8 No. III. Land Board, . . 209 No. IV. Montreal wholesale prices, - 216 No. V. Prices current in the Kingston or York market, 222 No. VI. Table of retail prices at York, in Upper Canad<\, 223 Er'ratum— Page 10, ^ne 3, instead of on the slings, read in the ^ngs. VISIT TO THE PROVINCE OF UPPER CANADA. I\OT having seen my brother for twenty-five years, who is respectably settled in Upper Canada, and having some leisure, I determined to pay him a visit. Accordingly, I sailed from Aberdeen, on the 27th March, with a fine breeze. On the 28th, about mid-day, we passed through the Pentland firth, and, the wind continuing, soon got clear of the islands, and entered the Western Ocean. April 6. The winds were baffling, and we made very little way ; but next morning a very heavy gale commenced, which continued fair for more than eight days. The passengers consisted of three ladies and three gentlemen, with one child j and, as they had never been at sea before, they were A ■'^li 10 A VISIT TO* Wt easily terrified at any unusual appearance. On the evening of the 16th, all were filled with cor .terna- tion at the carrying away our main-yard on the slings : screaming and wailings, repinings and vain resolutions, whjch are common on such occasions, deafened us for the greater part of the night. But m the morning, the yard was taken down and re- paired, again set up ; the wind abated, and we pur- sued our voyage. On Sunday, April 18, saw two islands of ice, or as they are now denominated, ice-bergs, one on the weather bow, very large, another a-head, some- what less ; the atmosphere was exceedingly cold till we passed some distance beyond them. 19th, land in sight, which we found to be the western- most point of the island of Newfoundland : the weather was extremely pleasant this and the follow- ing day. On the 2ist, ice was discovered from the mast-head, and before night we were completely surrounded. We had now entered the Gulph of St. Lawrence, but the ice impeded our prog.ess, striking against the sides of the ship with great vio- lence, and exciting not a little apprehension ; on going to the mast-head, I saw nothing but ice on every side— this continued for several days. A ship from London followed our track through the ice, but with great terror ; for, having never been in the same situation, this being her captain's first voyage to Quebec, he hailed us the first evening after we got into the ice, and thought that we had \ UPPER CANADA. 11 On the )r: jterna- on the and vain :casions, it. But I and re- we pur- f ice, or one on d, some- ;\y cold . 19th, w^estern- nd : the J foUow- Tom the npletely irulph of rog.ess, 'eat vio- ion ; on t ice on i}'s. A igh the er been n*s first evening we had done wrong in getting environed j but our captain encouraged him by informing him, that he had been often in similar situations, during the twelve years that he had sailed to Canada ; that he was well acquainted with the Giilph, and that they must per- severe ; for, to go back, was much more dangerous than to proceed. On the ice, several seals were seen— four of which we caught, two very large, and two of a smaller size. On the 24th, still continuing in the ice, we be- gan to be somewhat alarmed : as the masses were large, and the breeze brisk, they struck against the sides of the ship in a dreadful mann; r j but towards night, they began to get smaller, and a clear sea was perceived at some distance ahead. In the morn- ing of the 25th, we found ourselves in clear water, and making great progress. The Point of Gaspe was now in sight ; and about ten at night we en- tered what is properly called the river St. Lawrence. There are several small islands in sight, which are said to afford excellent fishing stations, and are so used, though not by any means to the extent that they are capable of. After passing the island of Anticosti, which appears as void of improvement as when first discovered, we hivd the satisfaction of seeing bofh shores, and of being convinced that we were in a river— a circumstance which ha J long beer asserted by our cr.ptain, but of which we had reason to doubt, not being able at all times to dis- cover land on either side. A 2 l/= m A VISIT TO IS- •! 1) J I I i ( f 11 We now perceived vast chains of mountains on the north, covered with snow ; the scenery was grand and terrific ; but their distance was so great, as not to present any alteration to the eye, from our approaching near the shore. In this part of the river there is great difficulty ; and, to prevent accidents, every ship is obliged to have a pilot. This has, like all other good rules, been to many a cause of complaint, who pretend that they can direct the. ship's course better than the pilots sent on board. But such complaints only prove that the best intentioned measures are cen- sured, and that some persons cannot be satisfied. That the ships should be all obliged to employ men experienced in the navigation of the river is just, not only to insure the safety of the vessel, but to enable Trinity-House to support such a number of pilots as may supply every demand : the loss of one or two vessels would be much more than the price of pilotage for several years. As we approached the island of Bique, signs of cultivation appear : farm-houses are perceived along the coast, and the lands cleared around them. As we proceed up the river, several beautiful islands are seen, covered with fine wood : spots of clearing are visible in many of them, at different distances ; and the smoke rises in columns in various places out of the forest, making the whole exceedingly in- teresting and picturesque. -^^■ragy^: UPPER CANADA. 13 Having been often told that the coast of America was low, and the country flat, so that you were at land before you were aware, I was sensibly struck with the incorrectness of these remarks, as we were passing up the St. Lawrence. Here every thing appeared on the grandest scale: the moun- tains lofty and cragged, and the general effect ex- ceedingly sublime. Not having been in any other part of America, I can say nothing of the aspect of the coast ; but I have travelled through great part of Europe, and yet I never saw so interesting an approach to any country, as by the St. Lawrence. The magnitude of the river, which discharges more water into the ocean, than any six rivers of Europe, and the majestic rudeness of the rising mountains, have a powerful influence over the mind. April 26. This morning the wind heads us — take in our studding sails; but at mid-day the wind comes fair, and we advance rapidly up the river, ex- pecting a pilot every moment. The ship that had been with us in the ice not visible, some think that she is a-stern j but the captain says she must be a-head, as she sails much better than we do. — The breeze dies away, and about 9 in the evening, the tide stops us. 27. This morning, get under weigh, and sail up the river, with a commanding breeze, hoping to ar- rive in the evening at Quebec ; but the wind died away abuut eleven ; no pilot had yet offered, A 3 % 14 A VISIT TO which the captain considered of no consequence, as he had bee-* so frequently at Quebec. He tells us that he can take the ship up as well as any pilot ; but if one comes, he must receive him. This he considered a great hardship. I asked whether he thought it so the first time he came up the river ? he answered no ; for then the pilot was most wel^ come. \\ »« A very fine country now presents itself on the south shore of the St. Lawrence ; but, on the north, it is very mountainous, and appears wild, barren,' and uncultivated, and still covered with snow. Fine weather and light breezes. At one a. m. a boat with four men came off from land, and told us the ice was a-head, and that it was of no use to proceed further, for that the ice at Quebec had broken up only four days ago. Notwithstanding this disagreeable in- formation, we stood in for about an hour j and being now within twelve leagues of Quebec, we could perceive the ice very plain from the deck. About two o'clock, huge masses of ice passing us, we came to a.ichor at Goose Island. Soon after we had moored the ship, a boat came off, and, on its return, the captain sent a letter to his consignees at Quebec. Here we lay till the 29th, when we shifted our station, for greater convenience in mov- ing up the river : went on shore at noon, but could purchase nothing, except milk, and very black flour bread ; the walking extremely bad j the ice, in many places, unhroken, but giving way to the ?■ ! UPPER CANADA. 15 pressure of the feet — every step went above the ankles in mud, water, and snow. We soon got tired, and returned on board. The inhabitants are stout, and dark complexioned ; the number of children in every house very great. Went ashore a second time this day, and hired a carriole, to take uf to a Mr. M'Pherson*s, who had been residing in this part of the country upwards of 40 years. He is originally from Scotland. He received us most courteously, insisted on our remaining to dinner, was lively and polite in his manners ; has several grand-children married, and seems to live in great comfort. From him we first learned the death of Dr. Spark. On reaching the ship, we found the ice much thinner, and expect to sail in the morning, wind and weather serving. About 4 p. m. on the 30th, we set sail, with an excellent breeze ; but were very much impeded by the running ice, which struck the bow of the vessel with such force as to stop her altogether. About 11 p.m, we came to anchor off the island of Orleans. This island is ex- tremely beautiful : the lands are excellent ; and the people, who are numerous, appear to be in good circumstances. The island is said to be about SO miles long, by ten in breadth : it appears to be well cultivated j and pleasing prospects of villages and cottages satisfy the eye. A 4 16 A VISIT TO May 1. Got under weigh at 4 a, m. with a hght breeze : about 8 o'clock we saw the Falls of Mont- morency, Quebec having for some time opened to our view. The city, built upon a lofty rock, seems to look with defiance down th . stream : as you ap- proach, you have Point Levi on your left, and on the right the western point of the island of Orleans; on passing which, you see the main land to the north full of villages, and the steeples of their churches shining in the sun-beams, as they are com- monly covered with tin. Charlevoix justly remarks, that there is no other city besides this in the world, that can boast of a iresh water harbour, three hundred miles from the sea, capable of containing one hundred ships of the line. At the island of Orleans, the breadth of the river is not less than twelve or fifteen miles ; but, above this island, it narrows suddenly, so as not to be quite a mile at Quebec. Yet, between the island and the city, there is a large bason, three or four miles m every direction, into which the little river St. Charles discharges itself. About JO a. in. we came to anchor at Heath and Moir's wharf, all safe, after a passage of five weeks. Went ashore in the lower town, which we find full of ice, and almost impassable j board and lodging 1. IP, UPPER CANADA. 17 very high. Lodge at the Exchange Coffee-house, for 7s. 6d. per day. The situation of Quebec is extremely judicious. It is destined by nature for a great city : it entirely commands the river, which is 100 feet deep, and not a mile broad. The anchorage, however, is good. Above the city, the river widens, and pre- sents a majestic stream, slowly rolling its waters to- wards the ocean. The few days that I spent in Quebec, I found extremely pleasant ; and though my brother resides at York, in Upper Canada, a distance of nearly 600 miles, he was well known, and I received attention, on his account. There are so many good descrip- tions of Quebec, and the surrounding objects. Cape Diamond, St. Charles, Point Levi, and the Falls of Montmorency, &c. that I despair of adding any thing to them ; and therefore I forbear. But I felt very strong emotions when walking on the plains of Abraham, and standing over the place where Wolfe expired, just as his troops became victorious. EPITAPH. Here modest Wolfe, cut off in early bloom, Though crown'd with glory, waits the gen'ral doom. The shouts of victory met his parting breath : He heard with joy — and, smiling, sunk in death. O ! brave enlightened youth, thy manners mild. Of half its terrors horrid war beguil'd : /» IS i I I ? A VISIT TO And sweet compasaion purified the flame Tliat fir'd thy breast to /fain a deathless name. For thee thy country drops the gen'rous tear. And mourns thy conquests at a price so dear. A Stranger, well introduced, spends his time very pleasantly at Quebec. The inhabitants are polite, hospitable, and intelligent ; indeed the so- aety is equal to any you can find in England.— The judges, the crown officers, and principal mer- chants, on the civil side, and the staff-officers at- tached to the commander of the forces, on the mi. litary, form a mixture highly agreeable. Here I was struck with a circumstance, which I thought might be peculiar to Quebec, but which I found afterwards to be general through both the Canadas ; It IS this, that the dinner parties consist almost al- ways of gentlemen, and seldom, as at home, of nearly equal numbers of ladies and gentlemen. On leaving Great Britain, I thought I had left politics behind me ; but I arrived at a momeftt of some discussion and agitation at Quebec. In 1810, the House of Assembly offered, under the administration of Sir James Craig, to assume the civil list, and to pay, from the funds at their disposal, all the officers of Government, who had been hitherto paid by the crown. The governor, m-chief had reason to suspect that this offer was UPPER CANADA. 19 artfully made, and would tend to increase very ma- terially the power of the democratic branch of the legislature ; and place those officers, on whom the person at the head of the government must ever depend for assistance and advice, too much iu their power; and that, although they might for some years pay their different salaries, without dif- ficulty, in order to establish the new system on a permanent footing, that whenever that was done, they would endeavour to reduce them so low, as to render them unworthy of men of firmness and abi- lity. Sir James Craig further discovered that the offer was of very little value, in a pecuniary point of view, as those items of revenue which belonged exclusively to the crown, amounted very nearly to a sum sufficient for defraying the civil list; he there- fore declined their offer. I In 1816, the general distress occasioned by the length of the war, and extraordinary efforts made by the mother country, induced the ministry to look out for every means of alleviating the public burdens ; and they thought it but reasonable, that the colonies should defray the expence of conduct- ing their own affairs. As to the Canadas, they were not, perhaps, aware, that little alleviation could be procured by this change, as it became ne- cessary to give up the crown revenues, and place them at the disposal of the House of Assembly ; by which the influence of the executive government would be very much lessened, and a power given to w I I U' R u ki i t. i A VISIT TO embarrass them, whenever a turbulent demagogue obtained a leading influence in the Assembly. The crown revenues arise from duties imposed at the port of Quebec, by British acts of Parliament, before the constitution v/as given to Canada, and are applicable entirely to the support of the civil government. Sir John C. Sherbrooke was accordingly instruct- ed to accept, in 1816, the offer made by the House of Assembly in 18 JO; and, not seeing the measure in the same light as his illustrious predecessor, Sir James Henry Craig, he cheerfully complied, with- out [pointing out to ministers the consequence of the measure, and the great additional power it would give to the popular branch of the legisla- ture. The House of Assembly very gladly accepted the offer, and voted, with alacrity, the whole of the civil list, in 1816, and likewise in 181? and 1818 J but, in 1819, thinking the matter suffi- ciently established, the members of the House be- gan to dispute about the items— to leave out some of the officers altogether, and to curtail the salaries of others; and even to demand the nomination of several officers, and thus to assume, virtually, all the powers of government. The legislative coun- cil, with great propriety, rejected the bill contain- ing these extraordinary and unconstitutional as- sumptions ; and the legislature was prorogued by a 'it mii-)f r:^jmmi^^m UPPER CANADA. 21 firm, dignified, and liberal speech, in Aviiich his Grace says, that, while the greatest deference and respect should be paid to the privileges of the conn- mons, and the most liberal interpretation given to them, that equal care should be taken to preserve the riglits of the other branches of the legislature. The more respectable members of the House, and many who had usually been in the opposition, had strenuously urged to the Assembly, that common honesty demanded a continuance of the civil list upon the same footing on which it was offered and received ; that it certainly was their right to con- sider well, before any additions were made to it ; and that, if it should be found necessary ever to di- minish it, the faith of government should be kept with the incumbents, and no alteration made till their promotion or death. These arguments were addressed, in vain, to the small majority of a thin House. It is said, that had there been a call of the House, matters would have taken a different turn, as many of the most intelligent and efficient members were absent j and who saw more clearly the evil consequences of the measures which the House was adopting, than those did who took the lead in promoting them. It is now feared by many who had hoped to distinguish themselves in the par- liament of the province, that his Grace the Duke of Richmond will resume the civil list, and never more submit the same to the consideration of the House of Assembly ; and when it is remembered that it gives little or no relief to the mother coun- ( li \,'.M ftu A VISIT TO /I I j try, and that the crown revenues, together witli the territorial rightsof theking, amount together to with- in a few thousand pounds of the sum wanted, it is hoped by all the peaceable and well-informed part of the community, that the governor-in-chief will resume it, as the consequences anticipated by Sir James Craig have been completely realized. It is a remark that I have often heard made at home, that the principal members in op|>osition were often unworthy in private life ; and, however eminent in talents, could not claim the confidence of the country, by the noble firmness and purity of their conduct. And it seems the principal person in this political drama is a Montreal auctioneer, who failed some years ago, and carries on business in the name of his wife; and although under this name he has made a large fortune, he has adopted Cobbett's morality, of not paying his creditors till it be perfectly convenient. On the 5th, I took my place in the ^team-boat. Telegraph, at 9 o'clock /?. w. and arrived at Mon- treal on the 7th. The banks of the river all the way are pleasant and interesting ; almost every six miles you see a village, with a church and neai steeple, covered generally with tin. This associa^;'s in the mind the most agreeable reflections. You are in a Christian country, among the disciples of the lowly Jesus j and, though to the protestant there is a great drawback, when he finds the ma- UPPER CANADA. S8 jority catholics, yet when he further considers the very few colonies that have a regular worship, he thinks Lower Canada a vast gainer by the com- parison ; and is fo.ced to admit that, however su- perstitious the Roman catholic religion may be, and however great its deviation from pure Chris- tianity, it embraces many sincere disciples of Jesus Christ, and sets its face against every thing irreli- gious and immoral. In the neighbourhood of Quebec, the lands are fertile, and the population very considerable, as appears from the hamlets visible from Cape Diamond ; but there is still so much snow and ice, that the face of the country, in general, presents a rude and inhospitable aspect. After reaching Three Rivers, the climate becomes more mild : the ice and snow have disappeared, the air is soft and temperate. The country is level as you approach Lake St. Peter's; and nothing can be more cheerful than the banks, when you leave that broad expanse. The lands are well cultivated ; the river is interspersed with beautiful islands, some of which are inhabited, and others partially cleared, without inhabitants j and present you with some of the finest landscapes in the world. On coming near Montreal, the river is extremely rapid, and requires nearly the whole force of the s tarn engine to enable the vessel to stem it. This City, which is before Quebec, in point of commerce, sjands on an island nearly thirty miles long, and thirteen at its greatest breadth. The mountain 'If i I' i M A VISIT TO from which Montreal derives its name, is about a mile from the town, and affords the most agreeable sites for country-houses and beautiful gardens. From the top of the mountain the view is very ex- tensive, embracing a circle of nearly 80 miles radius. Montreal was once surrounded with a wall, to defend it from the Indians and English, by whom it was frequently alarmed ; but lately, the ramparts have been levelled, and streets and building lots laid out on the ground which they occupied. The town is more open and airy than Quebec, and consequently more pleasing to strangers ; but neither so romantic, nor surrounded with scenery so sublime. I. is more populous than Quebec, con- taining, perhaps, 20,000 inhabitants, and the latter about 15,000. A stranger is particularly struck in this city with the iron doors and window shutters, and the roofs of white tin or sheet iron, which give a gloomy appearance to the houses, and excite the notion of house-breaking and robbery; but, on en- quiry, I found it was to guard against fires, which have been very frequent, and very destructive. The inhabitants of Montreal are extremely kind to strangers, and many of them entertain in a princely style. The few days 1 remained were spent in the most pleasant manner, and I left it with regret. At Montreal, the steam navigation ceases for the distance of about 160 miles, which \- '■' i W 1^1 UPPER dANADA. 25 I must either be passed over in batteaux or in the stage. There are objections to both : the batteau moves so very slowly, seldom more that 20 miles a-day, and the stage is so rough and uncomfortable. To save time, I chose the latter j but could not help lamenting that steam.boats were not practicable the whole way. The ease of travelling by steam- boats is very great : you step into the boat as into your dining-room— you read in the gentlemen's cabin, or you walk upon the deck, as you feel more agreeable ; and, at meal-time, you are served most comfortably with every viand you can well desire. There is no fatigue, no privation— you are as com- fortable as in your own apartment. There are seven excelL^nt steam-boats plying between Quebec and Montreal ; some of them very large, fitted up both for goods and passengers. There is no difficulty in coming up. except at the rapid of the Richlieu which requires some attention. No accidents have happened, owing to the superior excellence of the engines, some of them of fifty-horse power (which are all from England), and the attention of the persons by whom they are conducted. The application of steam to navigation brings virtually the back settlements oi' America to the ocean; it gives such a facility to exports and imports, and' is so much cheaper than the former modes of convey, ance. It, however, appears, that nature always gives an advantage on certain conditions, and here a great sacrifice is made ; for the prosperity of the steam vessels becomes the ruin of all the sloops and K i< I' 26 A VISIT TO river etaft, which, in cases of emergency, furnished us with a very considerable number of pilots and seaman. . ,!.'., ■ • On the 12th, I Iteft Montreal, in the stage ; the roads very bad, but the country through which we passed well cultivated, nd seemingly full of people. In the afternoon, we came to a broad part of the river, which is called Lake St. Francis. The rapid water which we passed the greater part of the day is extremely curious ; rushing forward with incredible swiftness, and carrying the boats with it often nine or ten miles an hour. At Lake St. Francis we find a very good passage- boat in waiting, which took us up to the mouth of the Kiver au Rasin, a distance of 26 miles, at which place we landed, and again entered the stage. I am now in Upper Canada ; no villages yet in sight, and the land seems more in a state of nature than in the Lower province. We reached Cornwall to breakfast. The coun- try looks now more interesting : this village, though not large, is clean and neat, and is ornamented with an excellent church. From Cornwall to Pres- cott the country is very fine, and the Long Soult and the Rapid Plat, from the turbulence and swift- ness of the stream, are very wonderful. As we approach Prescott, the river widens, and is Jess involved with islands; and when we arrived^ the UPPHJR CAl^APA. 27 St. Lawrence appeared truly majeatic— for 20 miles it is nearly two miles broad, the banks on both sides gently rising. It is grand to see a river, nearly seven hundred miles from the sea, pouring its waters in a channel two miles broad, and capabk of conveying in its bosom ships of the greatest burthen. Saturday, 15th May, went on board the steam- boat Charlotte, at Prescott, and proceed to King- ston, where we arrive at nine, and retire to Walker's hotel. Next morning, a friend of my brother, a most intelligent and respectable gentleman, invited me most cordially to his house, till the return of the steam-boat Frontenac, which was then at York and Niagara. In this gentleman's house I was en- tertained in the most agreeable and courteous man- ner. Kingston looks well as you approach from the water. The war was of much use to it, not only more than doubling the population, but like- wise distributing among its inhabitants large sums of money. The number of houses built, and well built, since the war, is very honourable to the taste and enterprize of the people. Here I found the same hospitality as at Montreal, but it made me more impatient to see my brother ; for, when his friends arc so kindly eager to pay me attention, how much more will he rejoice to see and enter- tain me ? the « 2 r-" ii I ! H ! ■ /• .. 38 A VISIT TO A Stranger, coming to Kingston, by the way of New York or Quebec, must be filled with astonish- ment at the size of our ships, one of which is as large, and, perhaps, larger than any ship of the line in his majesty's service. After passing up the river so many miles, to behold the vessels and dock-yard is indeed truly wonderful. The St. Lawrence, which is the largest, has flush decks, and carries 1 10 guns } her broadside must be tremendous. The chaplain of the army, a gentleman of sweet and obliging manners, conducted me through the fortifications, which are rendered strong by art and nature. The Martello tower, on Point Henry, commands the harbour, and can easily prevent the approach of any vessel, however formidable. The dock-yard and principal fort stand on land separated from Kingston by an arm of the Lake. The town is, therefore, not sufficiently protected ; and, in case of war, it will be greatly exposed. The inhabitants were very active during the late contest with the United States, and are justly proud of their exer- tions. ' J'' i May 21. I took my passage on board the steam- boat, Frontenac, for York, the seat of government in Upper Canada. This is the largest boat that I have yet seen, arranged for both passengers and freight : as a vessel of burden, and having to en- counter the storms of the Lake, she is broader in the beam, and not so flat in her bottom, as those UPPER CANADA. 29 I which are built to sail on rivers only. The Fron- tenac is admirably commanded : captain M*Kenzie, to the most incessant care of the ship, adds the greatest politeness and attention to his passengers. Saturday, May 22, I arrived at York, about six o'clock. My meeting with my brother, whom I had not seen for twenty«five years, his wife, and beautiful family, is more easily imagined than de- scribed. I am now at the end of my journey, and at the source of information respecting this coun- try. I shall, therefore, at my leisure, answer the different questions which were given me by many persons before 1 left Scotland. I have arranged them in some kind of order, and selected from se- veral lists all those which require distinct answers. B 3 riv ■ ^ 1 i ^^H f 1 j! Ij f ^m \ i r 1 1 t' 1 Ijj ■ ,1 H 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 i I i f 1 1 1 H 1 i H f ' i llji H ,; ll ^^^^H B |, 1 r ^ ^^^^^^H W' Wm t I i' ' l^# H '^ 1^. 1 ' f ■ ■' li^ 1' f^ ' BU < ■'^ :v ■.-> : I' 1 GENERAL OBSEKVATIO^S. '■U ' ' :: ... .' ;.•;■).:.) ; ; , ■ ■ ; ■ ■ ' \ .- ■■ • ■ ; . : : ; "> I ; . n r The changes which have been effected by "war and commerce, 'within a very short period, in the Canadas, have xapidly improved their wealth and importance. It is indeed not too much to say, that these provinces are more vahiable to Gie&t Britain than one half of her West India colonies. While the French kept possession of Lower Canada, the inhabitants, considered with respect to com- merce, were few in number, and without energy oi enterprize. After the conquest, the settlers fr<wa the three kingdoms turned their attention more to trade, than to the cultivation of their lamds, and, in a few years, became the sole iraporters. The r^e- bellion in America, though it depressed the colony for a time, led to its more rapid settlement j for the loyalists, after Uie peace of 1783, were seal chiefly to Upper Canada j and, being expeit at the axe, soon made flourishing settlements. Trade, however, was dull, consisting chiefly in furs ; aod, for some years, more provisions were raised tbaa could be consumed in the country, as thei^ was no beneficial vent. The British possessions in the B 4 I I I' • ' : ' : I i f i ■' l^/f, (i I V 1, W S2 A VISIT TO West Indies, being then smaller than at present, were amply supplied with provisions from the United States, and with naval stores from the Bal. tic ; but, for many years past, markets have been found, and the loyalists have been joined by num. bers of their fellow subjects from all parts of the United Kingdom ; and the settlements have been extending south-westerly, along the St. Lawrence, into one of the most desirable countries of the globe. The inhabitants have been roused into ac- tion and enterprize by the certainty of good and ready markets fgr their produce, and the vast ac cession of capital diffused through the provinces by the late war. ^ It has indeed been said, that the rapid increase of the trade of Montreal and Quebec was produced by the embargo, and other foolish restrictions on commerce, made by Congress, previous to the de- claration of war j and no doubt those measures had a powerful influence— but the true causes are found in the growing intercourse between Quebec and the West Indies : the difficulties which embarrassed the communication of our parent state with the Baltic, and which obliged her to give particular en- couragement to her North American colonies, and likewise in the growing settlements on the south side of the St. Lawrence, beyond 45^ and on the Lakes, which have their natural outlet by Montreal and Quebec—these causes will continue to increase ' r UPPER CANADA. as the trade down the St. Lawrence, till it equal or exceed that of the Mississippi. The Canadas have a much greater extent of coast, washed by navigable waters, than the Baltic, with a soil infinitely more fertile ; and indeed no limits can be imagined to the extent of its commerce, or the quantity of its produce. These waters not only wash the shores of Canada, but those of a great portion of the United States, to all which the great river St. Lawrence is the only proper outlet; so that Great Britain may profit as much by this' fo- reign territory, which costs her nothing, as from her own colonies, which she must support and de- fend. The western boundary of the State of New York stretches more than 300 miles along the St. Lawrence, Lakes Ontario and Erie. The States of Pennsylvania and Michigan extend along Lakes Erie and Michigan, &c. a coast of more than 1200 miles, making, in all, 1500 miles. Now, if we sup- pose this river to be the natural outlet for only one hundred miles of inland, we have 150,000 square miles, or 96,000,000 of acres, belonging to the United States ; all the productions of which must come by Montreal and Quebec. And if we reckon the surface belonging to Great Britain, on the op- posite banks of the rivers and lakes, to be only as much, we shall have 192,000,000 of acres of the best and most fertile land in the worl4. Allowing I (] f1 ««a«MaM 34 A VISIT TO <\ \7/»; Ml only one.fourtli of this ever to be cultivated, and to yield, on an average, twenty busjiels of grain per acre, a very moderate crop in this country, we shall Iiave nearly 800,000,000 bushels of grain, which exceeds tiie consumptkni oi' all Europe. A result still more favourable may be derived from taking the length of the St. Lawrence, from Quebec to the first Lake. 400 miles, doubled, for both banks, 800 miles, — the circumference of the different Lakes, 4730,— equal 5530, multiplied by 100 miles inland,— equal 553,000 square miles, mul- tiplied by 640, the acres in a square miie,— equal 353,920,000, one-seventh of which cultivated, and yielding twenty bushels per acre, would give up- wards of 1,000,000,000 of bushels. These calculations are given, to shew the extent to which the natural productions may be reasonably expected to arrive j and the great importance of a country, which has hitherto experienced little re- gard as a rising colony. To any person who con- siders these great amd fertile regions, that all their produce finds its natural outlet by the St. Lawrence, that the greater part is of primary importance to Great Britain, being essential *o her fleets, ar- mies, and colonies, or to employ her merchants and mechanics, in a way best calculated to give scope to their capital and ingenuity, the value of the Canadas will appear incalculable. UPPER CANADA. 84 But, besides the actual value and importance of these colonies, the influence which the possession of them confers on Great Britain, not only over the councils of the United States, but over all the Spa- nish colonies, is a consideration not to be disre- garded. There are, moreover, two reasons more, that give importance to these colonies, which will command the attention of the loyal, the generous, and the good. The first is, that the Canadas are a memor rial of better times, a standing record of former glory — torn from the most gallant nation of Europe^ the rivals and opponents of English greatness. The second is, that Upper Canada is the asylum of those brave men who risked their lives to main- tain the unity of the British empire — men who are still animated with the same noble spirit ; and who proved, in the late war, that they retained the same love for the king and our happy constitution, which conducted them through an unnatural rebellion. QUEST. I. } .'" f f «6 A VISIT TO A] *; QUEST. I. What are the Limits and Boundanes of Upper Canada '^ The country, properly denominated Upper Ca- nada, is, in length, from the line that divides it from Lower Canada, on the north-east, to Sand- wich, 500 miles, and the mean breadth, 140 miles; equal 70,000 square miles, or 45,800,000 acres of land. In forming a distinct conception of Upper Ca- nada, a very close inspection of the map becomes necessary : from which it will be seen, that the lands included by the river Ottawa, Lake Nepesing, and Huron, on the north, and the river St. Law- rence, Lakes Ontario, Erie, and St. Clair, on the south, may be divided into four peninsulas, two large, and two small. The apex of the first is formed by the confluence of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence ; and the neck, which joins it with the other great peninsula, stretches from York to Lake Huron, across Lake Simcoe. Of this peninsula, which forms a V£ry irregular figure, a small portion belongs to UPPER CANADA. 8T the province of Lower Canada, and, where the di- vision line cuts, the breadtli does not exceed forty miles ; but the average breadth of the whole is 140 miles. The length of the south boundary is about 290 miles, and the north 3.50 j average, 320 miles. The square miles cannot be fewer than 40,000, or 25,000,000 of acres. From this surface, a consi- derable portion must be deducted for water, as it is interspersed with lakes, especially in the middle, connected with one another by small rivers, which will greatly facilitate the carriage of corrmodities, when the country comes to be settled. Of this vast tract of land, some portions still remain to the Indians, and only a small strip on the south side is yet settled ; but all that is explored is pronounced to be of a good soil, and containing facilities of settlement not to be equalled in any other part of North America. The second great peninsula is bounded on the north by Lake Huron, and on the south by Lakes Erie and St. Clair. The neck of this peninsula is the same with the last : the average length is 209 miles, and mean breadth 130 miles — containing about 27,000 square miles, and above 17,000,000 acres ; this large tract of country is settling fast. It contains many oak plains, so open that you may ride in any direction, as in a royal park ; there are also prairies, or plains, on which no trees grow. These give great facilities to cultivation, and at- tract settlers. 1 \l- 38 A VISIT TO The third peninsula is formed by the river Nia- gara on the one side, Lake Ontario on the north- east, and Lake Erie on the south-west ; and tlie neck is an imaginary line from the head of Lake Ontario to the mouth of the Grand River. It is about fifty miles long, and thirty-six broad, containing 18(0 square miles, or 1,100,000 acres of land. This tract was early settled : the great con- venience of its water communications, the excel- lence of the soil, and the beautiful variety of hill and dale, which it presents in a greater degree than any other portion of the province, became so many inducements for emigrants to settle it. Thi fourth peninsula is formed by Lakes Erie and St. Clair, and the river by which they are con- nected. The neck is an imaginary line drawn from the mouth of the Thames to the base of ihe South Foreland. This tract contains about 1200 square miles, or 700,000 acres, and is well peopled, having been settled by the French, to render their com- munication with the Indians more safe and expedi- tious. When it is recollected, that the whole lands of England and Wales are only estimated at 54,112 square miles, or 34,631,680 acres; of which, 6,259,470 for England, and 1,629,567 for Wales, are waste, leaving 26,742,643 acres of enclosed ground, — that Scotland, though containing 25,600 square miles, equal to 16,384,000 acres, has uu- UPPER CANADA. 39 cultivated 14,218,000, leaving for tillage 2,166,000 acres, — we shall find that Upper Canada contains more good land than the island of Great Britain, without going to the north banks of Lakes Huron or Superior. QUEST, ir. 40 A VISIT TO QUEST. II. What Rivers and Lakes afford Water Com- munication '^ The great river St. Lawrence has already been mentioned as affording a ready communication from Montreal, along the south boundary of Upper Canada, till you reach Lake Ontario. From Mon- treal to Prescott, i distance of 160 miles, the ri er is navigab'e for boats of from three to ten tons bur- den ; ana ii is the opinion of men of intelligence, that, at a very trifling expense, the river might be so much improved as to allow steam-boats to pass up and down this space, without much difficulty. From Prescott, up the river, into Lake Ontario, and to the head of the Lake, a distance of 200 miles, the navigation is fine for ships of any L.irden • and steam-boats pass and repass along this distance with great ease. From Queenston, the head of the navigation on Lake Ontario, there is a portage of ten miles ; and then commences an uninterrupted navigation through Lakes Erie, St. Clair, Michigan, and Huron, more than 3000 miles of coast. From Lake Huron to Lake Superior, the navigation is interrupted by a short rapid, which might be locked 3t a very trifling expense ; for small vessels some- i- I m UPPER CANADA. 41 times stem it with a strong breeze j and then 2500 miles more of navigation for the largest vessels may be obtained. In short, the navigation may be opened between Lake Superior and the ocean, for vessels or steam-boats, at a very small expense, with the exception of the carrying place between Lakes Ontario and Erie, which includes the Falls of Nia- gara. Even now, the navigation has so much im- proved, that flour may be carried from any part of Lake Ontario to Montreal, for one dollar per bar- rel ; and from any part of Lake Erie, for less than two. Immense rafts of staves, ship timber, masts, and spars, are annually sent down to Montreal and Quebec, through these waters; and no country in the world can furnish such inexhaustible quanti- ties of oak as the shores of Lake Erie, and the western shores of Ontario. A great portion of the northern boundary of the province is washed by the Ottawa, which affords tht greatest facilities on that side for brinjiing down produce. This river is likewise capable oi great im- provement, at a very small expense. Through the middle of the country, chains of lakes are found, which will render internal com- munication very safe and convenient. There are, besides, i any rivers that come into the river St. Lawrence and the great lakes, which enable yoJ to send things into the interior. There is not, ))erhaps, a country on the globe, where there is so c 42 A. VISIX TO much excelfent water ootnmunication. In the mid- la»d district the greater part of the country is in. tefsected by portions of the lake ; and no person can proceed from Kingston, up what is called the BayofQuinte, without being filled with admira- tion, at the various inlets by which almost every farm has a water front. 1 1 QUEST. III. 1 the mid- itry is in- lo person [Tailed the 1 adfliira- ost every UPPER CANADA. 43 QUEST. III. What is the Climate of Upper Canada ^ Meteorological Average Table for three years, at Cornwall, Upper Canada. :ST. III. Thermometer. | Barometer. ■5 6 Higlu Lotv. Mean. High. Low. {Mean. January 4!2 27 7i i 30,16 29,3 29,6 February 45,3 5 19 30,1 29,4 !29,7 9 March 42 23 33 30,19 29,36 29,8 8 April 6-5 36 50 30,2 29,46 29,9 6 May 80 48 61 30,6 29,2 29,55 12 June 82 52 65 30 29,6 29,8 12 July 77 54 04 29,9 29,5 29,75 15 August 84 64,5 73 29,9 29,3 29,65 11 September 79 54 6'4 30,23 29,6 29,9 8 October 72 32 48 30,3 29,3 29,7 7 November 51 2f) 39 30,33 29,1 29,9 13 December 33 8 21 30,4 29,4 29,7 7 114 Annua I mean 45 Annual mean 29,74 C 2 44 A VISIT TO REMARKS. By comparing this table with meteorological tables kept in different parts of Great Britain, it appears, that the average heat is greater there than it is here : that the average height of the barometer is greater, and that its range is more extensive, being frequently more than two inches, while here it sel- dom exceeds one. The rainy days are nearly double in Great Britain, on the west coast, but, on the east coast, the difference seldom exceeds 20 days ; and if we have respect to the actual quantity of rain that falls, it is probable that we have more, as the rain falls faster here, and continues longer at a time. OBSERVATIONS ON THE YEAR isio. January. — The first four days of this month were clear, and exceedingly pleasant. On the 5th, a stGrra commenced, which promised a great fall of snow ; but, by the morning of the 6th, it was turned into rain. The weather was changeable and soft till the 18th, when one of the most sudden and severe storms began, which had ever been known: the frost became UPPER CANADA. 45 remarkably intense almost instantaneously, and con- tinued so for three days. The thaw, which had preceded this severe weather, is supposed, by some, to have swelled the buds, and to have exposed the sap of the trees so much, that the frost destroyed its peculiar qualities in many trees ; so that they be- gan immediately to decline, and those that survived had no fruit. But the mischief was perhaps pro- duced rather by the suddenness of the change, than the intensity of the frost j as we have had frequent- ly days equally cold, but never a transition so sud- den from heat to cold. Great numbers of forest trees were killed : nature, which quickly accommo- dates herself to circumstances, had not sufficient time. The remainder of the month continued cold ; the 25th, 29th, and 30th, were remarkably so. though still warmer than the 18th, 19th, and 20th, when the mercury in the thermometer fell to 26* below zero. February, — The weather was cold, but suffi- ciently agreeable for the first five days. The roads were good ; and travelling, from the deepness of the snow, taught people politeness, who knew no- thing of it before. There was no contention about turning out ; for, when two sleighs came in sight, going different ways, each began to look out for a convenient place to turn off, and, having found one, stood till the other had passed. On the 7th and 3th, some snow fell j and on the 9th, the frost was c 3 46 A VISIT TO very hard. The remainder of February was change- able } and, on the 25th, it rained and thundered. March, ^^We had no severe frosts during this month ; the weather was ahnost always soft. No rain fell, though the barometer was only three times above SO inches. ApriL-^Thh was a most beautiful month : 21 days were clear. On the 9th, a little snow fell j and it rained upon five days— -the other four days were cloudy. The trees put forth their leaves ; and the farmer had an excellent season for preparing his land for spring grain. The thermometer was, in general, high ; and never fell during the night, but twice, below the freezing point. Mai/, — The weather much more unsettled than last month, and much less agreeable, though rather warmer. We had rain in twelve days. The ther- mometer never fell below 40. Vegetation more slow than during the same month of the preceding years. J««(?.— This month was an agreeable intermix- ture of sun-shine and refreshing showers j the last ten days were charming. The country now as- sumed a beautiful appearance. Several days were very hot, but the barometer was only twice above 30 inches. !f UPPER CANADA. 47 Jm/^.— The barometer continued low during the whole of this month, having risen only once to ao inches: and the common temperature of the air was not so warm as in June ; besides, we had no single days so hot as several in the past month.— The thermometer was once, in the nighty ao loir as 42. On sixteen days the weather was clear and pleasant ; tlie rest brought us seasonable showers, to relieve us from dust and droughL Jtigmt.-^The barometer atill continued low : se- veral days were very warm ; and, towards the end of the month, it became veiy rainy. The rain lell in amazing torrents. The crops of wheat not so good in this part of the province as usual. The orchards have assumed a very melancholy appear- ance : not an apple to be seen, and numbers of the best trees withering away. September^-^The weather during the greater part of this month uncommonly fine. The faimers had an excellent season for preparing their ground, and sowing wheat. The barometer was occasionally very high ; and there was little or no rain. October. — There were not so many rainy days as are commonly found in this month. The wea- ther was extremely agreeable; but, towards the latter end, it became cool, and tiie last day was ex- tremely cold. c 4 mm* 48 A VISIT TO Novetnber.^This month has not been so pleasant these seven years : the weather was clear and ex- hilarating. There were frequently passing showers, but few days that could be called rainy. December - Is almost always the most disagree- able month in the year, nor did it lose Its character this season. On the 21st, a fall of snow enabled the sleighs to move about, and we were pleasing ourselves with the prospect that the winter had set in ; but, on the 28th, there was so complete a thaw, that hardly a vestige of snow remained even in the woods. On the last day of the year the barometer rose very high, and the day was clear, and without frost. The year 1810 was the most severe that had ever been experienced in Upper Canada ; and for this reason I select it, that my readers may know the worst that can happen. We have had no such sea- son since, ana all its evils have been long repaired. The orchards, where hurt, have been renewed ; the peaches, nectarines, apricots, apples, pears, and vines, grow as luxuriantly as ever j and the climate is found, by emigrants, delightful. GENERAL UPPER CANADA. 4D GENERAL REMARKS. The prevailing wind during the winter months is the north-west, which is dry, cold, and bracing 5 it rarely brings snow. The deepest snow storms are produced by a north-east wind, and are frequent- ly long and violent. The change is commonly to the north-west, round by the south ; and for some time the north-west blows vehemently, and makes a drift, or, as the Lower Canadians call it, apoudre. This only in the open grounds. In the woods, the snow continues level seldom so much as two feet, in the western parts of the province ; but often four feet deep in the north and east. The frosts continue at intervals, some years, even to the 6th of June, slight indeed, but sufficient to destroy fruit. Light frosts sometimes commence again in Septem- ber ; and in October they are frequent, and become gradually more severe. In the end of this month, ice begins to form on the pools and small rivulets, and the trees and herbs droop, and change their freshness of colour. There are frequent storms of wind in this month, attended with rain. November is commonly more pleasant than Oc- tober : the winds are seldom so violent j the wea- ther more agreeable ; and the Indian summer be- gins, or frosty mornings, with smoky sun-shine r: 50 A VISIT TO days. As the month draws to a close, the surface of the ground is frozen, and thawed during the day by the lieat of the sun, which makes very bad roads. Similar weather continues during part of Decern- ber ; but, towards the 20th of this month, the snow most generally falls to remain through the greater part of the province : the rivers and ground are completely frozen, and become well prepared to receive and retain the snow, which now comes in great quantities. The winters, however, are irre- gular ; and, in the lower parts of Upper Canada, tlie snow that fell in November has remained till April, leaving good roads during all this time j but this is rather an extreme case, and never happens so high as Kingston. In January there is always a good deal of snow, though frequently checked by a thaw. Towards the end of January, and the first half of February, we have, for the most part, the coldest weather, and the greatest falls of snow ; but the intense cold seldom continues more than three days, at one time, without a change to soft weather. March is blustering, cold, and raw : snow storms are frequent j but the sun has now a great influence. In April there are many good days, but little or no signs of vegetation. The month of May is render- ed chilly and uncomfortable by the prevalence of east winds, which continue to the middle of June, when the warm weather commences. July and m i UPPER CANADA. 61 August are both very warm, and likewise the greater part of September ; calms prevail, and the nights are close and sultry. The winters of Canada have long been an object of terror to Englishmen ^ and yet a Quebec winter, cold as it is, will be found much more agreeable than an English one ; and fewer, in proportion, suffer from its severity. The people of Canada are more careful to protect themselves from cold : they do not expose themselves to the external air, ■without being warmly clothed ; and they are parti- cularly attentive to the keeping of the head, hands, and feet warm. These precautions the Indians likewise take, and never seem to be affected by the coldest winter. In winter the air is very dry, and entirely de- prived of its moisture by congelation ; and, from this dryness, it has less effect on the human body than moist air, many degrees warmer. The climate of Upper is milder than that of Lower Canada, the change being very perceptible as you proceed up the river St. Lawrence. At Kingston, the season is ten or twelve days earlier than at Montreal; and at Niagara they are as much earlier than at Kingston. Indeed the dif- ference of the seasons at Niagara and York, though distant only thirty miles, is very considerable. It is evident through all this country, that the climate 52 A VISIT TO is not more essentially determined by the latitude, than by the longitude. Here much of the surface is yet covered with water, and the remainder with thick weeds, so that the rays of the sun have very little power. Human industry appears, from ex- perience, to diminish the inequality of the seasons, but has little or no effect in altering the average tem- perature. In the open country the snow disappears much sooner than in the woods ; but the grain sown is thus exposed to late ffosts in the autumn, and uarly frosts in the spring, without protection ; and the ground, puffed up and loosened with frequent freez- ing and thawing, throws the roots of the wheat out, and it immediately perishes. As the country gets cleared, the weather be- comes more changeable, and perhaps less heOthy : the ground is covered with water instead o< now ; and sloppy roads are more inimical to the constitu- tion, than extreme cold. It is remarked in Canada, that the mild open winters are the most unhealthy j and for this, no other reason can be assigned than that the greater degree of moisture engenders pleu- retic complaints. QUEST. IV. 'I ' /:ft UPPER CANADA. 53 QUEST. IV. Horv are Emigrants to get Landy on arriving in Upper Canada ? Having introduced you to tlie country, described its figure, and extent, and climate, it is time to point out the manner of becoming settlers. And here it is to be remarked, that it is infinitely more advan- tageous, both for poor and rich, to go ^o Canada, than to the United States j the poor emigrant gets better lands, for nothing, than he can purchase in that country. He gets them close to a settle- ment, and very near a good market. On reaching Upper Canada, emigrants have to chuse which of the ten districts they are desirous of remaining in. Having determined this, they enquire for the Land Board — one has been lately established for their convenience in every district ; and, having attend- ed this Board, the oath of allegiance is administered to them : they are examined, and, if their answers prove satisfactory, they are ordered 100 acres of land. The Boards are permitted to give only 100 acres of land to any applicant : their powers and instructions are to be found in the Appendix. — Many prefer going to York, the seat of government, and applying to the lieutenant-governor in council, 54 A VISIT TO either in the hope of getting a larger grant of land, from their having greater means to improve it, or from curiosity, or because they think it better to go to the fountain-head. The lands distributing to applicants are at present nowhere beyond ten or fifteen miles from the old settlements : they consist of a range of townships in the rear of those which are already granted, and which are laid out parallel to the St. La wrence and the lakes. iv When an emigrant comes to York, he reports himself at the lieutenant-governor's office; shews that he has come from some part of the United Kingdom, and is capable, by the laws of England, of holding lands. He is then permitted to take the oath of allegiance, a certificate of which is annexed to a short memorial praying for a portion of the v/aste lands of the crown. This petition is lodged in the council-office ; and, before it is read, it is referred to the surveyor-general, to report whether the person applying has ever received any lands or order for lands before. When this report is re- ceived, the petition is then presented to the council by its clerk, which is read, and the prayer recom- mended to his excellency the lieutenant-governor, as the Board, which possess a discretionary power, think just and reasonable, rbr one or two hundred acres of land. This recommendation, when approv- ed by the lieutenant-governor, becomes an order, and enables the clerk to issue his warrant to the surveyor-general to locate and describe the lands UPPER CANADA. 55 granted. A description is made out when the lands are fixed upon, which goes to the attorney-general for his fiat 5 returns to the surveyor-general, who transmits it to the secretary of the province, who engrosses it on vellum, attaches to it the great seal, and procures the signature of the lieutenant-gover- nor; after which it is registered and completed, and given to the person to whom the land had been or- dered. {Form of petition, see Appendix.) In ex- traordinary cases, the Board recommend four, six, and even so fiir as twelve hundred acres ; but very rarely, and only on special grounds: Tlie lands are granted with a condition not to be disposed of for three years, and no deed can be issued till the settling duties are performed ; which duties are, to clear five acres upon each hundred granted, and the half of the road in front of the same. The settler, having procured his order for lands, and having located the same, now proceeds to per- form his settling duties, which are very soon done by active men ; insomuch, that many have applied for their deeds, or patents, in two months after their land had been granted in council. The facility with which property is made by settlers, (I speak at present of those who get one or two hundred acres) is truly astonishing. Mr. Fairfield passed through Kingston, with an axe on his shoulder, a small sleigh, drawn by an old horse, containing his wife f*- 56 A VISIT TO I ih and three children, and half a dollar in his pocket. He took a piece of land to clear, which enabled him to present his petition for land, and was granted two hundred acres. In ten years his clearing was very large : he built an excellent brick house, hav- ing long before erected a good barn ; and his pro- perty was valued at two thousand pounds, or eight thousand dollars. — ^James Cline was granted one hundred acres of land ; engaged to get out lumber for the winter season, in consideration of receiving a yoke of oxen in the spring. Went upon his land, cleared two acres, which he planted with potatoes, and one acre with Indian corn ; got another acre ready for turnips. His cattle got low, and he hired himself out to mow grass, and to harvest grain ; in doing which, he made forty dollars. His pota- toes were a large crop, about 500 bushels, his corn was likewise good, and his turnips prodigious. Un- fortunately, he sold 300 bushels of potatoes, at a quarter-dollar, in the fall j the remainder he buried till spring, at which time he sold them for half a dollar per bushel. The corn he kept for his cattle ; and sold only 100 bushels, at a quarter dollar. The money that he procured for his labour and crop enabled him to purchase two cows, and to clear and fence ten acres for spring wheat, besides pota- toe, corn, and turnip ground, as before. His neigh- bours assisted him in building a log-house and a log-barn ; and he married the daughter of one of them. He redoubled his industry : in two years after, he purchased two hundred acres, adjoining UPPER dANilDA. ■mi 5r liis own one hundred, for three hundred dollars payable by instalments of fifty dollars a-year. with interest. In a very few years he paid this up ; and in twelve years he had one hundred and thirty acres cleared ; had built two excellent barns, one for hay, and another for grain ; and had likewise built a good substantial stone house—and lives in great comfort. It would be endless to enumerate all the examples that occur, many more extraordinary than those mentioned. Mr. James Campbell, whose property before K-j died, was worth several thousand pounds! Mr. Casey, equally opulent ; or James Simpson Esq. member of the House of Assembly, who had nothing a very few years ago. but his industry, and is now one of the most wealthy men in the pro- vince. The emigrant, who comes out possessed of industrious habits, and who does not allow himself to be led away with the ridiculous hope of finding a place where idleness may repose itself, while the earth shall produce its fruits spontaneously, will not fail of rendering himself comfortable. The happi- ness and prosperity of all the inhabitants of the co- lony depend upon their industry, and general good, conduct. All visionary expectations must be thrown aside ; no person will succeed who is not of sober and laborious habits. The native of this country goes upon new lands without emotion j but to the emigrant it is, at first, D 58 A VISIT TO ,*'* u i terrific : to place himself in the midst of a wood— the trees heavy j not a ray of the sun able to pene- trate ', no neighbour, perhaps, within several miles, and only an axe in his hand — he is ready to despair. But he has only to persevere a very short time, and apply his strength judiciously, and in a few months he will equal a native in felling trees and clearing lands. * You know,* said Mr. S , * that I was not accustomed to hard labour. Stripped of my for- tune by the pressure of the times, and my own cre- dulity, I reached York, with little or nothing in my pocket ; I could work, and therefore 1 declined compassionate assistance. I undertook to split five thousand rails, at one dollar per hundred ; the work is heavy : I commenced vigorously, and, in less than an hour, I became faint — I desisted, and wrought no more all that day. Next morning I was able to continue somewhat longer, before I ex- perienced the same weakness — I desisted as before. Every day I was able to continue longer and longer, till I could, in about one month, work tie whole day, without any particular fatigue ; and although I cannot split rails or chop cord- wood so fast as a native, for one day, I will do more in a week, as I continue more regularly, and am never idle. These rails, when finished, enabled me to purchase some necessaries, and to set my farm a-going. I am now encouraged. I see the way clearly; and, after many vicissitudes, J look forward to ease and inde- pendence.' r'i UPPER CANADA. 59 Every thing depends upon skill and industry. A poor man was mentioned to me, who was not very strong to clear his lands rapidly, and who seemed to get on so badly, that his neighbours thought he never would succeed j nevertheless he persevered. The first spot which he cleared he sowed with two or three pounds of apple seeds* which had been given him ; these he kept clean, and well fenced from the cattle : he thinned the plants from time to time, and went on with his ge- neral improvements as fast as he was able. The third year his neighbours discovered that he had been wiser than they j for he was now in possession of an incredible number of excellent apple trees* which he sold at a shilling a piece, or so many days work on his farm per hundred. All the surround- ing settlement purchased of him, as every farmer saw the great advantage of having a good orchard. By means of his nursery, he was enabled to clear as much of his small farm as he wanted, and to plant a very large orchard* to make cyder. Sometimes four or six emigrants, who have no money, join together; and one half go upon the land, and clear as fast as they can, and half go into service, and supply provisions and necessaries to those who are clearing, in tijis way they get on rapidly ; and when there is a house on each lot, and they have two or three yoke of oxen among them, they commonly all go upon their lands, and make D 2 60 A VISIT TO make more by their produce than by their day's labour. Emigrants who are able to pay their passage, and have L.lOO to the good when they enter upon their land, are soon independent. This, with industry, renders it easy for them to clear a portion of their lands, and make themselves comfortable ; and they have, therefore, much less cause for repining, and meet with much less distress, than those who have nothing to begin with. But such as have no means to support themselves, and have large families de- pending upon them, are apt to get discouraged, and to learn bad habits. With fortitude and perse- verance, and the blessing of health, all may get on, although it be much more desirable to see greater numbers of those who are able, coming among us. In regard to those who have large capitals that they wish to invest in lands and agricultural pur- suits, there is no place in the world equal to Canada. They may purchase lands to any extent, in the midst of flourishing settlements ; or they may ob- tain a grant of land, within a short distance of a settlement, from the crown. And here, compara- tively speaking, they will be exposed to no priva- tions ; but may look forward with confident expec- tation to great prosperity and increasing com- forts — animated by the consciousness of being able to bring up their children with a good education, and to leave them with ample possessions. In this UPPER CANADA. 61 province the settlements proceed gradually — the new ones, close to the old; the quality of the soil, and the real value of the lands, are ascertained. All the difficulties of the first improvements are, in a great measure, removed : provisions are to be found in the neighbourhood : grist and saw-mills are nu- raerous ; and even the comforts, as well as the ne- cessaries of life, may be obtained without much trouble. But, for some emigrants, it is more eligible to purchase an improved farm, than to go immedi- ately on new land ; particularly if they happen to have families. By such purchases, they are at once able to keep their cattle and horses— to have their pasture meadow, and plough land; and in this manner they may commence farming, with very little of the inconvenience, and all the advantages, of a new settler. :lt :--H'.i ■ D 3 QUEST. V. 62 A VISIT XO J QUEST. V. Why does the Stream qf Emigration flow chiefly to the United States^ and not to Ca^ nada f ' Thb greater number are deceived ; they know nothing of this country. Many leave Great Bri^ tain from political discontents ; and such the pro- vince is better without. Lately, the notes of Mr. Birkbeok have excited much consideration ; and all his assertions have been believed, without inves- tigation. Though I think him a bad man (I know him only from his book), yet he is much to be pitied, for his choice is miserable ; and, by this time, he begins to feel it. Mr. Birkbeck, accus- tomed to all the comforts, and, as it seems, much of the elegance of life, plunges, with his family, into a forest, where they have frequently to sleep under the canopy of heaven, with a blanket. He is forced to take the axe in his hand, and assist in felling the pines of which he is to make his log- house, which he builds at a great distance from any neighbour — opening to a wet plain, or prairie, in front, and an impenetrable forest in the rear. This hut is covered with bark — it has no floor but bark ; for as the surrounding country is flat,, there UPPER CANADA. 6& are no mills, and no boards to be had. Mr. Birk- beck dare not leave home, for any distance, with- out a guide ; and his children cannot go twenty yards from the house, without being lost. He gets the most pressing of his wants supplied at an enor- mous expense. And now, that he is on his land, what shall he do : it is covered with trees, or it is wet and unhealthy ; and if he hire people to work, the produce of the farm will never pay them ? but he must have servants, and he is obliged to sit down with them, and to become their companion. Mr. Birkbeck, who was accustomed to go from one field to another, admiring his crops and his cattle, and nothing to do but to give the servants their orders for the day, and saw all his works pro- ceeding as rapidly as he wished, now finds himself an insulated being, surrounded by a few miserable fields, taken from the bog, and full of musquetoes. His children getting sick from this unhealthy situa- tion } and, in case of severe disease, beyond the reach of medical assistance. Is it possible to be- lieve that, under such circumstances, he does not regret the country he has left ? And let me not be told that the prospect of leaving his children a rich inheritance will turn the bitter into sweet— he is not that sort of a man j nor do I know any law of nature which urges a parent to sacrifice his own happiness, in order to confer a doubtful benefit upon his children. We allow that, after a short time, he will be surrounded with neighbours j but their society is not very agreeable: it is indeed D 4 64 A VISIT TO dangerous, as Mr. Birkbeck himself admits. After sacrificing his connexions, his country, all his early associations and pleasing recollections, his ease and comfort, what does he gain ? Some landed property, which he dies m improving ; in an unhealthy situa- tion. He may be able to leave a farm to each of his children ; but of what use will they be, if not cultivated ? And he will discover, in the bitterness of his heart, that this legacy is not equal to the placing them upon a farm, though taken at a rack- rent. How different the situation of a loyal farmer, possessed of Mr. Birkheck*s substance : if he should come to this province, he need not go ten miles from a flourishing settlement, even if he went at once upon the lands granted him by the crown. But, if he purchases an improved farm, his priva- tions will be trifling, compared to those which he must suffer in going to the back settlements of the United States, as will afterwards still more fully appear. It should not, however, be forgotten, that, with every possible advantage of soil, neighbourhood, and climate, emigration to America, a country so distant from Great Britain, is a matter of deep and serious consideration. The persons emigrating must call in their property, break up all commerce, trade, and connexions in the country they are leav- ing j and if they find their expectations disappoint- I UPPER CANADAr Bif ed in the country of their choice, they are ashamed, and perhaps unable, to return. Emigrants often fail, because they have never examined the subject properly ; and find, on trial, that they do not pos- sess the qualities necessary to insure success.— The habits, the knowledge, and accommodation of manners, which this new life requires, are not, per- perhaps, natural to them — :hey have not the strength, the courage, and perseverance, which their new situation demands. The emigrant is not prepared to meet the difficulties which the climate, new manner of living, insects, or vermin, may bring upon him ; and which, in spite of all his exertions, may frequently destroy his hopes. It is, therefore, the greatest cruelty to state the matter partially : and, while the advantages of removing fron^ the old to the new world are drawn in the most fascinatino- colours, to conceal the privations, and sacrifices, which must be made ; and the many chances of failure, which may be opposed to that of success. ■ ' ■■ • ■'■->, .■ I. . We shall have occasion to prove, by the most undeniable evidence, that Upper Canada offers to emigrants advantages vastly superior to any por- tion of the United States ; but we would still ad- monish all who are thinking to leave their native country, to examine the matter with severe mi- nuteness : not to be led away by golden dreams j and to prepare themselves, should they decide upon going, to meet many discouragements from sick- ness, from different manners, hard labour, and pri- 66 A VISIT TO ^ vations of various kinds. Yet, though no step can be so important as that of leaving one's native country for ever, it is to be feared that such a step is taken without due consideration. The fancy is deluded with golden dreams : the farmers in Ame- rica are owners of the soil on which they live ; they have no rents to pay j no tax-gatherer at their doors ; possessing a noble independence, they ac- knowledge no superiority, but genius and merit. These are high sounding things, but more specious than solid. Before a man allows himself to be de- luded by them, he should remember, that it is no great hardship to pay rent, if his produce fetch three times the price in England that it does in America. That the difficulty of bringing his things to market, and the dearness of his purchases, pro- duce, united, a tax, not perhaps inferior to what he has paid at home, and attended with many difficul- ties, which he never experienced. That the facili- ties of intercourse by good roads and canals, by saving time, and the tear and wear of his carriages and cattle, are worth a very considerable sum. That, in removing from his native country, he is leaving the improvements of a thousand years, to encounter all the ri:<deness of nature ; that he is risking his own happine&o, and that of his children, by a step which cannot be retraced ; ahd plunging in- to a new society, whose manners and habits are dif- ferent from his own ; and that he will have every thing to learn in the midst of strangers. UPPER CANADA. 67 When a man has, after mature deliberation, de- termined to emigrate, which various considerations may, in particular cases, render prudent, his next question is, Where shall he go — to the United States, or to Canada ? We shall suppose the persons emigrating to be friends to the British constitution ; for if they are not, there is no question ; because levellers and democrats will find themselves in a bad situation in coming to Canada, as they will find no kindred spirits there. But though we can willingly spare such as these, to lose good subjects is a serious evil to the empire ; and to lose them through ignorance, and the want of that informa- tion which it is in our power to give them, is a folly, as well as an evil. I am persuaded, that all emigrants, of the descrip- tion we mention, would rather prefer to remain un- der their own government, than to live under and swear allegiance to another, provided no greater sacrifices were required in going to the one than to the other. I am indeed quite certain, that many would consent willingly to a considerable sacrifice for this advantage, so agreeable to their feelings and habits ; but we shall shew that no such sacri- fice is required, and that their interest, as well as inclination, when duly considered, will lead them to Upper Canada ? In going to the United States, we have Mr. Birkbeck*s authority, that * no good settlement 68 A VISIT TO can be made east of the Alleghany mountains, or in the Atlantic States.* The lands are now so dear, as to be, in general, far beyond the reach of com- mon emigrants, who have seldom much left after landing in America. Suppose two families to land in America — one at New York, or Philadelphia, on the way to Mr. Birkbeck*s settlement j and one at Quebec, on the way to Upper Canada. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, From Pittsburgh, down the Ohioj to Shawanoe Town, . _ . From Shawanoe Town to Mr. Birkbeck's settlement, Miles. 320 1200 50 1570 '.V '■< i Expense of a family travelling this rout, suppos- ing the family to consist often persons, and to carry with them two tons of goods : Dollars. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, at eight dollars per cwt. ... 320 The expense of the family, who accompany the waggon, at one dollar each per day, 100 Carried over, 420 UPPER CANADA. 69 Brought over, From Pittsburgh to Shawanoe, by water, down the Ohio, 1200 miles. An ark, or large scow, must be purchased, hands hired to go down, and they must be paid to return, as much as from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, From Shawanoe Town to Mr. Birkbeck, for baggage and persons, To purchase two hundred acres of land, at two dollars per acre, Total expences. Dollars. 420 420 100 940 400 1340 The same family, landed at Quebec, Pays, to Montreal, 200 miles, two dollars each, - - - . For the goods, - - . . From Montreal to Kingston, 220 miles, up the river St. Lawrence, goods and per- sons, for the batteau can take all, If the family proceed to York, which is seldom necessary, as Kingston is 150 miles within the province, and lands in its neighbourhood to be sold or granted, there will be an additional expense of Carried over, 20 12 100 80 212 TO A VISIT TO Brought forward. To such a family, possessed of property, government might grant 200 acres, on paying fees, about - - - Or it may be purchased at two dollars per acre, - . . - Total expences, Dollars. 212 70 130 412 From this calculation it is seen, that the settler, with his large family, by coming to Upper Ca- nada, instead of joining Mr. Birkbeck, even if he purchase* his lands at the same price, saves 928 dollars, which will enable him to clear a large por- tion of his farm, stock it, and build a comfortable house ; and if he be granted the land, instead of purchasing it, there is a further saving of 130 dol- lars. Let us now see what the produce at Mr. Birk- beck's settlement, in the Illinois and in Upper Canada, will command in the market ; for, not- withstanding the greatness of the first saving, in coming to Upper Canada, if the markets be in- ferior, it might soon be balanced. I Illinois. Dollars. '212 e settler, pper Ca- even if saves 928 arge por- nfortable istead of ' 1 30 dol- ^r. Birk- in Upper for, not- iaving, in ets be in- Illimois. UPPER CANADA. 71 II ..0 <L!NOI8. 3 9 Upi'er Canada. Wheat, per bushel^ L.O S I 1 1 G Indian corn, Oats, 4, 2 6 1 1.9 1 7 3 Hay, per ton. Butter, per lb. CI>eese, 2 10 1 3 10 1 7 Fowls, per couple. 1 G ..2 8 9 L.3 5 1. I Wheat, per bushel, L.O Indian corn, - " Oats, Hay, per ton. Butter, per lb. Cheese, Fowls, per couple. N.B. These prices, taken from Mr. Birkbeck's book, are L.30 per cent, above the truth. From this table it is manifest, that the produce raised in Upper Canada sells at an advance of up- wards of 30 per cent, on what the same can be sold in the Illinois territory, supposing Mr. Birkbeck*s prices correct, which they are not, being much too high. The vast advantage, therefore, in coming to Upper Canada, must appear manifest. It may by some be said, that the families are too nnmeious, as there are few that consist often per- sons ; but the result will be proportionally the game, whatever the number be ; and if we suppose them to consist of persons in comfortable circum- stances in their own country, they will commonly bring servants with them, by which the average will be still greater. But this is of no moment ; the difference of expense in travelling .500 miles, or 1570, is sufficiently clear. >' 72 A VISIT TO ] k <0 iMl We must add, to the disadvantage of Mr. Birk- beck*s farmer, the dearne&s of all those articles which he has to purchase ; for his distance from the sea*coast and market operates in two ways to his disadvantage. * His produce is low, and the * goods from the shop are dear : the shop-keeper, * who is at a great distance from the place where * the articles he deals in are procured, will add to * the price, when he disposes of them, the additional * expense of bringing, and the time lost in procur- * ing them. To him who is obliged to take a jour- * ney of 1600 miles to procure his articles of mer- * chandize, the cost and trouble must be very * great j and all this he makes the consumer pay. * The journey which Mr. Birkbeck*s merchant is * obliged to take is a very serious one, compared * to that of the merchant of York or Niagara. The •latter, in consequence of his situation, can trade * with a smaller capital than the former ; because * he can at any time procure a fresh supply in a few * days, while the former can lay in a stock of goods * only once a-year. Now, all these difficulties are * to be paid for by the farmers and mechanics, * who consume the articles imported : the differ- * ence to them, in the course of a twelvemonth, by * receiving less for the articles they sell, and paying * more for those they purchase, will be found to be * ^eyy great. * It is not merely the quantum he shall raise, but * the sura he shall get for it, which constitutes the. ^w St UPPER CANADA. m farmer's advantage. It is not simply to get enough to eat and drink that is to bound the desires of the farmer ; it is to procure the means of cr .vert-' ing his log-cabin into an handsome and convenient house,— to erect a large barn for his grain, and suitable buildings for his cattle,— to educate his children,— and, as he grows old, to enjoy the sa- tisfaction of finding that his industry has supplied the comforts of life, and jnabh 1 him to satisfy the wants of society — wants to which we are in- debted for the amelioration of mankind.* In the selection of a place of residence in a new country, it is very important to take into view the ultimate market for the farmer's produce. While the country is settHng, there will be no dif- ficulty ; for the increasing population will demand all the supplies that can be raised. But the pru- dent settler will look beyond that period, and con- sider what he shall do when every one raises more grain than he will be able to consume. In that case, vicinity to market, and facility of transporta- tion, are all important. Now, the produce of Up- per Canada can be sent to Montreal, one of the best markets in America, in five or six days, at a trifling expense, which is yearly diminishing as the waters are improved. Very different is the case with the farmer in the western division of the United States : the immense distance which grain has to be sent, occasions the ex- pense to be so great, as frequently to equal, and E *> ji t I 74 A VISIT TO sometimes exceed, the price offered when it reaches the market. The more that this statement is exa- mined, the more correct it will be founds and the superior adTantage» of Canada will appear in a stronger light ; but, having become a landholder, it is time to instruct the emigrant bow he is to oiake his liviog out of it. .f . I » QUEST. VL I: ' U tlPFfitt CA»At)A. 15 , , QUEST. Vf. How is Land Cleared ? ,, T«fi first thing is, ti€> dHt dolvn the Uftder-wdod/ of, As k is commbflly daDerf, bfush, as dose td «he ground as possible. The treses aH theft cirt d<?wfi» as much ad cttn be doi>6 iu oh6 direction j afld thfey are chopped up into lengths of eight or ttn feet, to enable them to be dri^^n together irt orde^ to be burnt. Soon after, and dotnetim^i f#^<nediately^ the bi*ush *nd trees ar6 dtiOected into mafes^j which, being set on fire, the tops- arid lifnbs Atd cortmoflfy burnt, leaving the logs. When the fire is complete^. ]y extinguished, the settler goes with his oxen, and draws aH the remaining logs together, a second time, in he^psj they are again set on fire, ahd this second burning almost always consumes them.— When the timber is cut down, and ready for burn* ing, it is often called fallow in this country. The logs are piled during the day, and towards evening they are set on fire, and are generally suffered W burn, unattended, in the night ; at which time, the burning masses, through a large extent of country, present a brilliant spectacle : and when it is con- sidered that these are the first steps towards reduc- E 2 ,-..^. i 76 A VISIT TO ing a wilderness into a fruitful country, the scenery becomes powerfully interest ing- The poor settlers are often found fault with for the little taste which they shew in clearing land. They make no reservation or selection of grove, to serve hereafter as a shelter from the sun for both man and beast: the woods are indiscriminately hewn down, and cast into the fire ; and it is left to another generation to find out the inconvenience of this general destruction of timber. But it may be remarked, that trees left solitary, or even in small patches or groves, are soon blown down j for the roots are commonly near the surface, and do not enter deep into the ground. There is little chance of any, except very young trees, living; and they require more attention than the poor farmer, who is exerting himself for a subsistence, can well spare. Those farmers who go upon their lands full- handed, may attend to the preservation of the beautiful and the picturesque j but even they will, at. first, be put to serious inconvenience by such patches. They are a harbour for vermin of various kinds ; and especially for birds, which destroy the fruit of the orchards, and devour the grain as soon as sown. To have clearing done in this manner, which is the most expensive, will cost, with fencing, from UPPER CANADA. 77 twelve to twenty dollars per acre, according as the timber is thick and heavy. But even this expense, together with all others, of seed, sowing, harvesting, &c. is often repaid by the first crop, which is raised through all this province, for the first time, with- out the trouble of plowing : the grain is merely sown on the newly cleared land, and harrowed in. A stranger is filled with surprise to see ground, full of roots and stumps, producing such crops j but tho fact is so. Many of the settlers, instead of clearing the ground entirely, leave the heavier trees standing, having first girdled them, as it is termed, or cut a deep notch round the tree, four or five feet from the ground ; this forming a circle round the trees, the ascent of the sap is prevented, and they die in one or two years : the under-wood and smaller tim- ber is burnt up as before, and the ground sown and harrowed. The crop is not, however, so good, as the shade of the standing trees impedes vegetation. This mode of clearing is, on the whole, more pro- fitable, but not so elegant as the former ; but, as it may be done at half the expense, and the settler is anxious to raise provisions for his family, it is fre- quently adopted. Many may come to this country who are able to pay for the harder part of the work, or who would choose to pay for the clearing and fencing of the first few acres. We give a table of the expense of clearing, fencing, sowing, and har- vesting an acre, when the whole is paid for in E 3 T$ A VISfT TO money— balancing the account with the p^*o4^#i y^bich hardl> ev^r f'giU tQ\)esk good crop, Clearing md fencing one acre, One bushel of wheat sown, r $ Harrowing, (it gets no ploughing) Harvesting, - Threshing, - f ■» 10 p IQ P 10 p L.$ 10 If the ground be prepared as it ought to be, this ejcpense may be safely incurs red) for tho crop, estimated at 2^ bushels, at one dollar, or 5 shillings per bushel, - , - J^eaving a profit pf L.6 q » ^ I mi I w ) i H I L,0 IP Other statements might be given, leaving a much greater profit ; some persons having twenty-sev^n and thirty bushels, for their first crpp, per acre j examples are even found pf forty bushels. All accounts agree in saying, that the fir^t crop will defray the expense of clearing and fencing. Ac^ cording to this table, which is the least, the profits on clearing one hundred acres would be two hun- dred dollars, or L,50, independent of the additional value given to the land, whicli would be equal to ten hundred dollars, or J^,?^P mor^-r^making, aU UPPER CANADA. 79 J 15 5 5 3 JO 5 IQ 3 JO 5 JO gether, the sum of fourteen hundred dollars, after defraying all expense, or L.S50. If we take the largest cr.-. ilu profits would amount to three thousand doilars, :,. : The expense of clearing and /eucing one acre, as ^ ^^^""'^^ - •• . L.5 10 Crop, 40 bushels, at 6s. a bushel, - lO O Giving a profit of IS dollars, or L.4 10s. per acre : on one hundred acres. 1800 dollars, or L.450; to which add the improved value of the land, ten hun- dred dollars, or L/250, equal to L.700: so that more than one hundred per cent, would be cleared on the capital employed. These are facts which every settler here appears to be acquainted with. The great mcrease of the value of land in this country, where the soil h al* most universally good, and the situation favourable for the sale of the articles raised, is almost in- credible. We have already mentioned that these calcula- tions are made upon the most expensive mode of clearmg. which is by burning the timber whilst green. A great saving of immediate expense, may be made by cutting down the light timber, and gird- hng the heavy, leaving it standing i^^6 or three E 4 80 A VISIT TO years before it is burnt ; in consequence of which, it becomes dry, and one half the labour of burning is saved. A settler, coming to Upper Canada, sees the great body of the people engaged in agriculture. He perceives that where settlements are just form- ing, agriculture has a rude and wild appearance, compared to what it is in the old and well cultivat- ed settlements. In the latter, the business of the farn er is to cultivate the farms which have al- reac y been greatly improved ; and by the applica- tion of more labour and attention, and skilful ma- nagement of rotation of crops, and manure, to in- crease the quantity of produce j and, consequently, the profit. In the new settlement, the first business of the husbandman is to cut down the woods, to clear up the lands, to sow them with grain, to erect the necessary buildings, and open roads ; and thus to connect and form a communication between this and old settlements. Amidst the hard living, and hard labour, that attend his rude cultivation, the settler has certainly the most flattering prospects and encouragements. One hundred acres of land cost him only about L.6, if granted by government, and cannot, if pur- chased, exceed L.50; frequently one-fourth of that sum, which he can spare, if a young man, from the UPPER CANADA. 81 wages of two years. When he comes to apply his labour to his own land, the result is very profitable. The first crop of wheat, as has been stated, more than pays him for all the expense he has been at in clearing up, sowing, and fencing his land ; and, at the same time, increases its value ten or twelve times. In this way every day*s labour spent in clearing up the land is rewarded doubly : first, in the grain which it produces ; and, secondly, in the value of the cleared land above that which is still in a state of nature. An acre of land, which, in its natural state, costs him one shilling, is in one year made of that value that it will afterwards annually produce for him twenty or twenty-five bushels of wheat, or other kinds of produce, of equal value. From this it appears that the profits attending la- bour, in a new settlement, are the greatest that can ever take place in agriculture. The labourer con- stantly receives double wages. He receives hiwh wages in the produce of his corn and wheat ; and he receives much higher wages in the annual addi- tion of a new tract of cultivated land to his farm. This double wages, nature, with great benevo- lence, assigns to the man of industry, when he first makes a settlement in the uncultivated lands of Canada. S2 A VISIT TO in K - ' In two or three years, he acquires a very com- fortable and independent subsistence for a family, derived from no other source but the earth, and his own industry. In some excursions which we made, we saw the first struggles of the new settler. As soon as he gets a little Indian corn and a few potatoes in the ground, he endeavours to put up a log-house : ac cordingly, he chooses a spot most convenient for his residence, and cuts down trees of a suitable size for his cabin. These he cuts into lengths; the most common dimensions of the first building are IS feet long by 16 broad; and it is so built as to become the kitchen of a superior house to be erect- ed in its front, jvhen the settler has enlarged his clearing, and got a little more forward in the world. After cutting a sufficient number of logs, his neigh- bours assemble, and raise the building for him, by laying the logs in a rectangular figure, with the ends notched, so as to interlock with one another, by which means the whole are secured and braced together. The spaces for the door and windows are then cut through ; and towards winter, the in- terstices, or openings between the logs, are chink, ed, that is, filled with pieces of wood, and mutUled, or daubed with plaister of common mud. It is covered with bark ; and, where mills are distant, or the newness of the country makes it difficult to get out to the roads which lead to them, the floor is likewise covered with bark. The chimney is then UPPER- CANADA. S3 built spacious, with a few stones for the back, to prevent the fire communicating with the logs, which nevertheless it often does ; and log^houses are frequently burnt. Seldom any accident hap- pens, and the smallness of their value readers the loss inconsiderable. When time and circumstances admit, and saw-mills are accessible, a frame-house is built, and covered neatly with boards, planed and paintod. The next important thing with the new settler, is to have protection for his grain ; and if it be at all practicable, he gets a frame.barn, covered with rough boards J the most common dimensions are fifty feet long, by forty wide. Such a building is finished with stables at both ends, for horses and cattle ; and costs, including materials, about three hundred dollars. In some places it may be a little more, in others a little less, according as you are distant from or near a saw-mill. You frequently find a farmer, possessed of a magnificent barn, full of grain, still living in his first log-house, which, after a few years, looks wretched j but it is always the case that the most industrious farmers build a good barn, before they think of a comfortable house ; and to reverse this order, is considered a sign of idleness, and want of proper management. The first public building for a new settlement is a saw-mill. To erect ^ good one, with a single saw, capable of cuttin j i o thousand feet per day, 84 A VISIT TO may cost from three to six hundred dollars, or from L.75 to L.150. The neighbours bring their logs with their teams to the mill, and carry home half the qu-^ntity of boards which they make, leaving the other half with the miller. % Pine boards are to be had at eight dollars, or two pounds, per thousand feet, at the mill ; and at some distance, they are delivered at ten. These are average prices ; for sometimes they sell much higher, and again lower, when the market happens to be overstocked. But in a new settlement, there is always a great demand for boards j and the pro- prietors of the saw-mills are so far from having any to export, that they are not able to supply their neighbours. Cherry, oak, and walnut boards, which make beautiful furniture, especially the cherry, which is little inferior to mahogany, are sold for about one half more than pine boards. All buildings, after you leave the first log-house, are covered with shingles : these are made of white pine, split thin, commonly 18 inches long, and from 6 to 12 broad ; they are lapped over each other, like slates, four, five, or six inches, to the weather. They cost from ten to fifteen shillings per thousand, and compose a roof impenetrable to rain, when well laid on j buj: they are much ex- posed to fire. Ill 1 !■ l f i I UPPER CANADA. 85 Fences, through the whole country, with the exception of little gardens, and along the fronts of houses, are the ugliest feature that strikes your eye ; even worse than the LtJirsps of trees, with which the fields are ^' '. Thev are made at first, in many places, with ' » s, of about twelve feet in length, placed in a zig-zag manner, with their ends resting on each other, to the height of five feet. This sort of fence has a very rude appearance, though it may serve for a while, and save some trouble in burning. But most settlers split the logs into what they call rails, and lay them up in the same manner as the logs, with stakes at the angles, on which heavier rails are placed, to steady the whole fence. In some parts of the country they are improving upon this mode of fencing, and making it straigiit, with posts ; but the labour and time necessary will prevent it from being generally adopted for many years. Englishmen are more offended with the fences than with any thing they see in this new country ; and certainly, when compared to walls and hedges, they have but a slovenly appearance. They are soon, however, reconciled to them, when they discover the easiness with which they can be made, and the amazing expense of walls. As for hedges, they would be extremely inconvenient, on account of harbouring vermin, in a new country ; when the country is open, it may become different. It m A VISIT td is said, that around Boston and New York, they are jast commencing hedges, and ate succeeding well. QUEST. VIL U I mv-'p UPPER CANADA. 87 QUEST. VII. The Land being Cleared, what will it pro- duce ? Mosr strangers of intelligence, who have tra- veiled through the province of Upper Canada, have freelj admitted, that they have never seen so great a body of good land. Travel in what direction you please, it is seldom that you come to a tract that will not most abundantly pay for its cultivation. The different grains are raised here, that are com- mon in England, together with Indian corn, or maize, which cannot be cultivated in Great Britain. 1. Indian corn, — When corn is spoken of here, this is the kind always meant j for other grain is called by its specific name. It is planted in hills, about three, and sometimes four, feet apart : two, three, or four stalks, grow in each hill, to the height of five, six, or even eight feet ; and bear on their sides three or four ears, nearly a foot long, and as thick as a man's wrist, enveloped in a husk. The top of the stalk is surmounted with a large tassel ; and the plant, when growiiag, has a very rich and beautiful appearance. The hills are commonly hoed } but, with good farmers^ the plough is in- 88 A VISIT TO ■glf %m trodiiced, as soon as the stumps permit. When the ears are in a milky state, before the grain is ripe, they are boiled, and the green corn eaten with butter and salt, which is considered a great delicacy. When ripe, it is ground, and made into bread or cakes ; and by some the meal is mixed with rye, and made into bread. Many are fond of the meal boiled to the consistency of hasty pud- ding, and eaten with milk, and molasses and butter. The grain is sometimes ground very coarsely, so as to break it into three or four parts, and used in soups: in this state it is called hominy j or the hull or bran is taken off, by steeping it in a lye of wood-ashes. The stalks and leaves afford an excellent fodder for cattle J and the grain itself is excellent for fattening cattle, hogs, and poultry. 2. Oats are lighter than in England ; but forty and fifty bushels an acre is not an uncommon crop. 3. Buck wheat, or French wheat, is raised on poor lands. It is most commonly used to feed poultry ; ground, it may be given to all animals, particularly to hogs, with advantage. The meal is sometimes made into cakes; and considered by many, if steeped in butter, a great lux.iry. 4. Potatoes are an abundant crop, and almost al- 'vavs certain ; they are, in general, dry and good, itiid easily raised. You have only to make a small hole for the seed, in new ground, to drop them, UPPER CANADA. 89 great and coyer them. If you have time to hoe them atter they come up, the better crop ; but if not. the produce will still be very great. Rye, barley, peas, beans, are raised abundantly. Flax grows well ; and tolerable tobacco may be raised. Hemp has been frequently recommended, and great expectations have been entertained of its progressive cultivation. The difficulties of raising It m Canada are not insuperable, but they will not be very soo.^ removed. It is supposed that Great -Britain requires annually 30,000 tons of hemp. That there are lands of good soil, sufficient to raise ten times that quantity, cannot be denied; but, till the population is more increased, and mills are es abhshed for breaking the seeds, this production will not be cultivated to any extent. Estimate of the expense of three acres of land cul- tivated with hemp in Upper Canada : 1. Ploughing, at 12s. 6d. per acre, 2. The second and third ploughing, . 3. Nine bushels of seed, at 12s. 4. Sowing, covering seed, and water fur- rowing, . . ^ J. Pulling. 16 days work, at 5s. per day, 6. Boarding the labourer 16 days, 7. Drawing and bundling, two days. Carried forward, F L.1 17 6 2 5 8 1 10 4 2 1 L.17 15 6 '(] - ^ i' i 11^ m '■ i m aO A VISIT TO Brought forward, L.17 IS ii 8. Carting to and from the water, 1 9. Watering, gras&ing, drying, and housing, - . - 3 10 10, Dressing one ton, at four days every JOQ cwt. 5K) 11. Boarding during tUne of dres^ijog. being 80 daya, ... lO o 12. Rent of land* 15 o tu5S 6 By one ton of hemp, at L.9 per cwt. 40 O By which the farmer loses L.13 6 The great item of expense is that of dressing the hemp, and boarding the labourer while em- ployed. Were mills erected, this part of the busi. •ness, which at present costs L.50, might be done for five or six pounds ; in which case, the culture of hemp would be profitable ; and the farmer clear about L,12 on every ton, which would be a very fair reward for his trouble. And as this would be so much profit, after defraying all expencea, and paying him well for his individual labour, the cul- tivation of hemp might soon be introduced. Wheat, and the average quantity per acre, has been already noticed. The grass, which is sown, gfows abundantly ; but little attention has been i I r IS 6 I 3 10 3 a 15 o 8 6 3 6 dressing 'hile em- the busi' be done : culture ner clear te a very would be ices, and the cul- i acre, has is sown, has been uppbh CA^AtoA. n pft»d to t»ie beet sot^ts. Alttsost tfie 4iuty otie n the coanfry i, Trmothy. Red otovor, irhe,^ A is st^ grows ItiKurian*ly. Th« whl!« dover appmrs a tia- turM grass of tf»e <joantry; fen, though not M>Wf». It ^erL^ery field and roaawwdo. wheit. the knd has been ti^gtected. Any fidd is turned into a When Ittid down with ^.rass, readily J^i^ldn fioin one to two tons per acre. When the setter hus wiade ft clearing tipon his form, hebegins to thi^k of a ki, .hen-gai'd*^ , tind if he or his fattily attend to it, h« will l,e well s«*>. gied With turnips, carrot*, beets, t»lirship8, pmL tons, squashes; and, by a Jfttte additional care, witti strawberries, gooseberries, raspberries, cueumu bers, mask melotts, water Aielons, tawiatus, And «U the esculent heits of Eotope. The orchards produce apples, pears, ^hert-ies ; and, m the western parts of the province, quinces, peaches, nectaHnes, and apyicols in additidn. The question, What w«! the land prodiKite ? Is thus siifficrently answered. It pix>diices all the ne- cessaries, and enables the owner, if industrious, M purchase all the comforts, of life. It does more-Mt enables the parents to provide for their diildrett, without care or anxiety : every industrious and »ober farmer grows rich. Indeed ali that he has to do IS to go to a rtew settlement, where the soil is F 2 I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V / 4 V] <^ /a >m '<?. ■m W S>iJ >■> 0>% /S 1.0 ^» 2.8 I.I 1^ us UO IL25 M 1.4 rfl, 1 U'_ riioiOgiapiJlL Sdences Corporation IM 22 IM 1.6 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^» "^2% % i/u ■^ 92 A v'ISIT TO I if 4 rai 1 f of a good quality, and either purchase or a grant of one hundred acres ; and if he cle: dually, so as to maintain himself on it, t rise of land will, in a few years, make him wealthy. But if he exert himself, he will have a very consi- derable portion of surplus produce to dispose of; and then he will be able to purchase lands for his sons, as they come of age, and to settle them all on their farms before he gets old ; detaining the youngest son on the homestead, to assist him in his old age, and to inherit liis property after his death, which is the common custom of the country. The wealth acquired by industrious farmers will be more clearly seen by the following list, given to my brother by a respectable yeoman, in the course of a few minutes. They are all of Mr. Young's ac- quaintance ; and he said that he could have doubled, nay trebled, the catalogue, with a little recollec- tion. They are men who had nothing when they commenced. Mr. James Young, the person who gave the fol- lowing list, lives in the township of Ameliasburgh ; has three children ; began upon a wild lot of 200 acres, about seventeen years ago, without any pro- perty ; paid for his land; and reckons his property, in mills, lands cultivated, and wild,, worth 15,000 dollars, or L.3750. i 4 !»■ *4 f Mr. Robert Charles Wilkins, his neighbour, has 5 children, and possesses property to the same value. UPPER CANADA. dd Mr. Zaccheus Burnham had perhaps one hun- dred dollars, or L.25, when he began, about twenty years ago ; has five children j and has accumulated property worth 20,000 dollars, or L.5000. Mr. Thomas Dempsey had only his axe ; culti- vated a farm of 200 acres ; has been labouring upon It about twenty.five years j and is supposed to be worth 8000 dollars, or L.2000. Mr. Peter Crouter had L.75, or 300 dollars, when he commenced ; purchased a lot of 200 acres, cleared it, and paid for it ; and is now worth about L.1250, or 5000 dollars ; he has ten children— lives in Ameliasburgh township. Mr. Henry Radner had no property when he began, twenty years ago; has had eight children; and is worth L.1250, or 5000 dollars. Mr. Owen P. Roblin had little or no property when he commenced twenty years ago j has ten children ; and is supposed to be worth L.2500, or 10,000 dollars. Mr. Henry Tyce had no property when he began eighteen years ago ; has nine children ; and has property worth L.I 250, or 5000 dollars. 'h F 3 ) •1 / 9^ 4 \^i;ht %^ w IVAr. Qeorfps^ CunniDghaiz), hadi a shuktle when he begaft; baa six chiUron ^ aad k wpsth X4.it7£(V. or 700&doHaxt8i For perspicuity, and to save room, we place the residide o^ the list faonished 'm* the htm of A TABLE. Names. i\o. of rhil- Value. of Property. Year* Townships. ", dreii. settled'. 1 , L. Doll. DuHeli GeareMgfa 6 : 1,000 o» 4/)oo 17 AmeUasburg James Piersoni . 4s 1,000— 4,000 15 Ameliasburg Josiah Proctor ' e 1,500— e,ooo 9 Cfamafte- Joseph Keeller 3 6,250 — a5/)00 ao Crtamitsi Ezekiel Lawrence 2 2,000— 8,000 20 Thomas Jones 10 2,000— 8,000 20 Sydney Abel Gilbert < » 3^,750^ t&fiOQ 25- Sydbey Reuben Wi^e . 8 ;a^00— 10,000 , 16 Sydney: John Roe 5 3,000 — 12,000 16 Sydney Jacob W. Myers . 7 2,000'— 8,ooe l» Sydney Joseph Pheloy 8 2,000— 8,000 18 Haldiraand Joseph Philips 6 1,500— 6,000 20 Haldiroand JcJin Grover 6 2,000"— 6,om 15 IfkldimMld JofanD. Stnith 6 5>0«0^20y0«0 ; 15- HoR« Isaac Garret 7 1,500— 6,000 20 Hope John Stevenson 8 5,000— 20,000 28" HallbtJ^n 1 6heads of families 100 42,000—168,000 !'•; p|i Iti giving* them- names, I desitc^ M*; Youi^ to^ be particularly earefti! not to menti^ott any pevsom who had a capital to begin with. All these people are well known to him, and by far the greater num- ber are neighbours. They had no chances su- B-f- rppftt «AiirAi>A. m perior jio whut all may stilt have ; and the wfiole tfcae they ar« wwth has been obtaineiJ by patient it may inyfefecf be remarked genetalfy of Upper t^atiadUj that, having been fim settle* By Ibyafist* and disbanded soldters, who were all poor, everr person who is now in good circumstances owe* it entirely to his own industry, or that of his father. And no person of health and strength need be afraid, if he once resolutely determines to emigfafe, to become, in «ime, independent! and rich. As far, then, as respects the physical wants of effltgfants, tJppet^ Canada is a. supefiof to the United States ; but tftere are rtafters'on whieh our happiness essentially depends, whith reqtiireexpltf- nation. The state of religion and' education*, of so- ciety, of the laws and government, &c. Bht the steam.boar is just sailing to Niagara; and my bro4 ther, to whom I am indebted for the greater part oFthe information' already cowniunieated, accom- panies me; fO'See the Mis ; and promises to answer the remainder of my (jueries as wellas^he ean, when iTetHrnto Yorfc. Juttfe'agrd, 1819. There were- veiy few passengers in the steam-bottt; and' si» honrs took Us to NiV gara. Asm^ were walking' on the deck. Captain Tatkey'ii Narrative becjame the subject of conver- sation, for one of the gentlemen- happened^ to havtt F 4 fi (i 96 A VISIT TO it in his hand. My brother remarked, that ond could not read the melancholy issue of this expedi- tion, without lamenting the unhappy sufferers ; and the more so, as, by proper arrangements, their deaths might have been prevented, and the great object of the expedition accomplished. This re- mark excited attention, and he was requested to explain. , The utmost extent to which Captain Tuckey r-^ached did not exceed two hundred miles in a direct line, or two hundred and eighty from the mouth of the river, including its windings. The ships, on the 8th July, tried to double Shark Point ; and on the 10th September, Capt. Tuckey was obliged to return. The deaths were occasion- ed by fatigue ; and they were prevented from get- ting forward from the want of provisions, and not having the means of advancing within themselves. The ship Congo was only ten miles up the river, on the 18th July j so that ten days were spent in proceeding ten miles. When recour«5» was had to the boats, their progress was still slow ; and when they approached the Rapids, or Falls of Yellala, the boats became useless, and they were forced to march by land. This again obliged them to hire natives to carry their baggage, by which they were made completely dependent on their caprice for their future progress. !♦■ ii • 1 ; «i UPt»fiR CANADA. ^T' > the provisions which they procured from the inhabitants of the country cost prices so enormous, that the ships could not have carried articles suffi. cient to purchase food, at the same rate, for two months more. < , j , . . :;m)/,-. (,•• In order to succeed in this expedition, it is ne- ist, That the party be completely independent of the natives, .-. e. have provisions and the means ot transport within themselves. 2d, That the party be sufficient for defence, and well armed. II ^ i.i 3d, That it proceed in six days as far as Captain 1 uckey did m two months. 4th, That, as the first object is to ascertain the geography, the greatest expedition may be used in passing into the interior. In returning, if it be thought prudent to return by the same route, more time may be taken. To effect these purposes, employ canoes used by the fur traders in traversing the vast continent of America. , _. . . Let four north-west canoes be brought to Encr. land, with picked crews of twelve men each j let \i I) if l m A, VISIT TO them be pat on board a vesselr aod trftnsported to the mouth of the river Z»tre. These eaaoet earry twenty men each,; with provitions and necessairiet fbff fiMir monfchsr The proviMoiM tlo consist of pemican, which can be packed in the usual maimer. The men belonging to each canoe under regular officors, of determined resolution ; and tfa» whole under one commander. Every person, capablcr on an emergency, of using his arms. A sufficient stock o£ presents fbr the native» would not occupy much room, ae they might covisist of suoh^ewy articles as attract the notice of bacbarians^^ V Ml Such an expedition would be indeqiendsnt oS the natives in every respect ; adopting the: same me* thod of voyaging which is done in North America, no»impediment could stop themw When they come to a rapid, they stem it withi easef when to* ap fell^ they instantly land, and carry canoe, provisions, and baggage, around^ it. The^ diffei^mt- artides being madft up in» packages of 3d- or 90lb9. weigto;^* the cii3w» tiansport them) over an carrjring' piuotf witlfr uncommon' e^^aditioni. As the crews would be select, and well officered and appointed».thci;e would) be nothing to 0Kir £rom the natives* thoaugh whose territories- they pawed r they might alarm, but they would be respeotttdv and this respect would most generally change into regtttdj. if th<^ were comciliafciogi- }rt«d to et carry :e$S£Hriei nsist of atSMBfVP* regular f whole table, on ufiicient > occupy It ol the nne vci9* America, idy co>me ovisions, . aitides weigio;^ 1^ ^ttor officered mr from passed : 8{i«aeiidv inge into UP9K11 CAJSADA. 99 Bottbft rabidity of movement which, fLs. mode ofcomwjancepoMeages^w iti greatest recommen- datioo. Tha norlh-west voy^ers go from. 70 ta 80 miJcs a^ay, £bi» many day^ together^ in apiu of cvecy impediment from rapids and carrying placpjw which, are munecoiw. But we shiiU suppose that this expedition proceeds only 60 mU«a en an ave- rage per day, and less than this can never happen ; andin two months it wiU have txawcrsed the conti- nent of Africa^ and hava provisions enough ta re» turn,, should no supi^ be receivedr from the na. tivoft. In.five days.such. an expeditiou would be farthei: advanced thaa Captain, Tuckey was in twro months > and should, any difficulty happ^ with the natives, the canoes would UHJceed witli such velocity^ that they couJd neyef be overtaken- Instruments for taking the proper observations could, very easily be carried wiA, tham^ The^ crews; should be princi. pally Canadians,, because they are accustomed, ta such voyages, and. caiv not only bi.^, fatigue of Uiia sort better than- mogt other, men,, hut.caij.ba.mora easily, kept in or-der-. The ai^foach. to. Nia^ra. is. very, fiae,:, qm oner sida^the tovva is rising from. iu. ashes with.great rapidity J and on. tU: other,, the American, fort RFasente itself^ h&ndsomely, repaired since ttiQ pe»:er-a^majflstic.^i»e^^ollift bftwaan them. • 1 1 I r " !)• .i loo A VISIT TO Ui Orr landing, we hired a carriage to attend us found the town, and take us to the falls. In the town, we saw nothing so remarkable as the contrast between the church and jail : the former entirely out of repair, and most discreditable to the people ; the latter, the most splendid building in Upper Canada. The ride to the Falls from Niagara is very fine. In proceeding to Queenston, you think you are passing through a very old country : the river, in sight all the way, appears exceedingly noble; houses are thick, and the lands in a good state of cultivation. Queenston has become famous by the death of the gallant General Brock, who was killed on the 13th October, 1812, bravely repulsing the landing of the enemy. His body is interred under one of the bastions of Fort George at Nia- gara, without any stone or memorial to mark the spot where the saviour of Upper Canada lies. It is said that the legislature, some years ago, voted one thousand pounds for a monument, and that a committee was appointed to procure and set it up ; but nothing has been done. Such conduct requires explanation. Was the sum too small? It might have been easily increa8ed by private contributions ; and, till the monument is erected, the province is disgraced. On looking at the bastion where the General and his gallant Aid-de-camp are buried, I attempted the draught of an inscription for the monument, should it ever be built. --»'.i.::s«iNy ttend u9 alls. In i as the ; former itable to building ery fine, you are river, in noble ; state of aous by who was epulsing interred 1 at Nia- nark the lies. It ;o, voted d that a it it up ; requires It might butions ; Dvince is iiere the buried, for the UPPER CANADA. Why a&Xb this bastion forth the patriot sigh, And Htarts the tear from beauty's swelling eye ? Within it« breast intrepid Brock is laid ; A toniti according witli the mighty dead : Whose soul, devoted to his country's cause. In deeds of glory sought her just applause. EnrolI'd with Abercrombie, Wolfe, and Moore, No lapse of time his merits shall obscure : Fresh shall they burn in each Canadian heart, And all their pure and living fires impart. A youthftil friend rests by the hero's side ; Their mutual love death sought not to divide. The Muse that gives her Brock to deathless fame, Shall in the wreath entwine M'Donnel's name. 101 It is supposed that the Falls of Niagara com. menced at Queenston, though they have gone seven miles further back. The banks of the river give some weight to this supposition : they are chiefly soft strata, mixed with stones, which water could soon wash away. After rising the Queenston heights, the country becomes as level as below them. Therj^^an appearance of a mountain on one side only, and the land beyond it is called a table land. We passed Lundy's Lane, on going to the Falls, where General Drummond, with a very small part of his forces, fought the whole of General Brown's army, on the evening of the 25th July, 1814, and beat him off the field. Next morning the American 1 t im A VniT TO 4,^ ■ Sf, i ^^i I ilm\ f iL army fled, burning and destroying their provisions and baggage, towards Foft Erie* claiming, never* theless, a glorious victory. As it was difiicult to get even their oountryaMn to believe thAt tbey had gained a victoryr by Tanning away, srnne ai their generals dflbred to give evidence of fts truth ; but, being parties concerned, there was still a demur. On reaching the Falls, I found the bed of the river a solid rook of Jime-stone, so tiMit their progress backward niBflt be very dom ; bwt that their ap- pearance charrges gready is evident flrcm the con- current testimony of the neighbouring inhabitants, and the vast portions of the rock which are now and then falling down. Wishing to go below, I clambered down the precipice, about half a mile fVorn the Falls ; but my brother not feeling a suffi- cient con*fidence to follow me, I soon returned, and we proceeded to Black Rock. The ridesti!! continues beautiful along the river, birt the countiy is rather flat. It was dark by the time we reached Black Rock ; we therefore pnt up for the night — determined to visit Bufialoe, on the American side, in the morning. June 25, passed the river at six o'clock, which is here very rapid ; vraWced to Buflaloe, distaiit from the ferry nearly two miles. Itie town increases wonderftilly : tbe houses, many of them elegant, the greater numbet of brick> almost all erected since the war ; for this to^vn had l^e tnisfottune to UPPE« CAKADA. lOS >rovisions g, never- ifiicult to they had J of their itfh ; but, a demur. ' the river progress their ap- 1 the con- habitants, are now below, I alf a mile rrg a suffi- iftied, and the river, ark by the )re p«t up ot, on the :, which is stamt from intirea^es n elegant, dl erected jfortutie to Uekornt. in retaitatMii for the bumiwg of Nragani. Bfeikfasted at Landeti'a. Met a very intrflrgent farmer, who lives about fourteen miles from Bafra- joe, on the shore, of Lake Erie. This gentleman had just returned from a journey of nearly four thousand miles, to look for a new settlerocnt. Are yoM not comfortable? Yes; but I had a good dmnoe of seliiftg my improvement, and I wished to purchase a larger track of land. You are too old to think of a new settlement. But ray diildren. Well, what success? I went through the States of Ohio, Missouri, and the Illinois, but I saw little ad- vantage in changing ; the people, in most places, were squalid and miserable : some had large crops but no market. How do you like the prairies ? Some of them are rich and dry in the upper parts of th« Missouri} but they are commonly wet and unhealthy in the State of Illinois. How can you account for trees not growing upon them ? The . shallowness of the soil : yet in some the soil is deep, and no trees grow. The greater part of the Illinois is flat and marshy ; no streams for mills. The tide of emigration is taking a different direc tion, to the Alabama and Missouri territories. In- deed the miseries which most of the new settlers from old America have to suffer, from sickness, and the want of all those comforts to which they have been accustomed, begin to be known, and have checked emigration to a very considerable degree. For my part, rather shame, than a desire to remove, induced me to make a conditional bargain for 104) A VISIT TO m;' about two thousand acres of land in Missouri State ; but, on my return, I found it inipossible to dispose of my farm, and I am well pleased ; for I shall be more comfortable to remain. He complained bitterly of the banks : one at Buffaloe had just failed, and ruined half the neigh- bourhood. I am come to town to-day to pay five hundred dollars, for putting my name on the back of a bit of paper, for my next neighbour, who re- quested this fi»vour for three days only. The barks induce people to get into their debt, and ruin follows. There are two booksellers in Buffaloe, each of- fering for sale a large assortment of books, many of them well bound, and valuable. One small work, entitled * Letters from the British .Settlement in Pennsylvania,* attracted my attention, and I pur- chased it. The book is written by a Dr. Johnson, and draws, in the most fascinating colours, the ad- vantages of a track of land, consisting of 40,000 acres, purchased in the western part of the State of Pennsylvania, and to be settled exclusively by Eng- lishmen. The land averaged four dollars per acre, price enough for the sterile soil of this part of America j a deduction of the price to the amount of 25 per cent, was to be made, on prompt payment. Thero are, nevertheless, many useful remarks in the book, of which I have availed myself in tran- scribing this ; but the praises he bestows on his Kail: I i UPPER CANADA. 105 settlement are greatly exaggerated. He blames Mr. Birkbeck for mis-statements, and the folly of his choice ; and with great truth. It is a flat un- healthy country, where there can be no mills, the waters of the rivers running slow, and over-running their banks in spring and autumn. We continued two hours walking round the town, admiring the rapidity of its growth. The lake opens on its west end with great magnificence, but there is no harbour ; and the violence of the swell prevents the forming of one, as it brings such quantities of sand, and would immediately fill up any basin that could be d-^g. There is great difficulty in fixing upon the mouth of the great canal, now cutting from Lake Erie to the city of Albany, whether it shall be at Buffaloe or Black Rock. The great objection to Buffaloe is, that the canal would be exposed to the storms, and have its mouth filled up six or eight times a- year. The impediment at Black Rock is, the strength of the current before you can get into the lake, which is so strong, that the steam-boat re- (juires assistance from oxen to enable her to stem it. In turning a corner, we met the farmer with whom we had breakfasted, with a fine looking in- telligent old man, neatly dressed ; and we went back to the inn with them, to rest half an hour, previous to our return to cross at Black Rock to G im A yi9IT Tp M\ Can^4, 49 the c|ay was extrefpely hpt, SpiegJ^iBg Qf t^e can^), th^ %mer prprajsed the country inn- ip^nse acjv^t^ges frpm its operation ; that it would bripg |:he I^ftke§, i^sit wer^, to New Yprl^ j and that the w^H9i'|i ii^ha^it^^t^ would now begin to t^te the sweets of a goQ^ f^&irkeU I hav^ nothing to do but to bring my flour down to the canal, and if I get ray price, vf^W »nd gppd j if not, sisfteen days carry n^e to New Yorl^, and thct same number re- stores B}^ \^ niy family. AH PUr citizens en ILakes Erie, Miphigan, and Superior, will have New York ^ the H^aFket fpf their produce, the great enipofiuin frpra which they ii^ust obtain all their suppliea. It ■will unite the Union more firmly together i aM leave us nothing to regret that the free navigation of tl^p St. Lawrence i§ not open to all. As tq Ca< fi^d^t ^nd especially Mpn|r«qil, this undertaking is ext;r^mely detrimpnt^K Ng produce will proceed in that direction after l^he opening of this q^nail-^ £^11 will pass £^nd repass tp N^W Yprl^. Instep of giving the people op your side any portion of our tmsiness, we shall hp getting theirs. The voys^ge 4pwn to the sea will be sp certaint and the expense so sm^ll, ^s to preclude the possibility of any coip- petitionr We shall be able to tal^e a h^rrel of flour from any part of Lake Erie to New York for a dol- J^, where at present it cannpt be taken for half its i'V I dq not see quite sp many advai[its^es^ friend J$i9Q^ said the elderly gentleman ^ they are, in my .»' I ^f i I UPPEE CANADA. lOT try im- t would n4 that o tmio g to do md if I in days %hQr re- w yprfc iporiuoi lea. It it't and ligation } tq Ca- lking is proceed stea^d of i of oiir voyage expense t^y coqa- of flour )r a dol- ha\f its , friend 3, in my of«nioti, gwatly over.ratfed. This «inal will do more good to Montreal tiian to New York : it paa« ses at one place within ten miles of Sodus Bay, on Lake Ontario> from which a lateml cut or raiUway may be constructed ; flour may be taken out of tho canal, and put on board the steamvboat, at threes pence per barrel j and as it is cheaper to tarry produce from Lake Ontario to Montreal, than by the canal to New York, should the markets of thos* two cities be equal, the former will have the pre- ference. Besides, the canal will freeze much ear- lier than the river St. Lawrence ; and hence we have less time to pass along with our produce, than by the lakes and rivers, or living waters. It is so easy (turning to us), gentlemen, to improve the na- vigation of the St. Lawrence, that all our eflbrts to divert the trade will prove in vain. And it is well that it should be so ; for the produce of the vast countries which surround us will be enough for both. It is not as an instrument of commerce that I admire the canal which we are digging, but as an emblem of peace. Had we not despaired of conquering the Canadas, the hope of which pro*, duced the late war, this great work had never been commenced. We were much pleased with the candour and good sense of this old gentleman, and took a cordial leave. On our way to Black Rock, I made enquiry of my brother concerning the im- provements necessary to render the waters of the St. Lawrence navigable for vessels of burden, par* 108 A VISIT TO I as;;; in. 5i tinularly steam-boats; and shall condense his in- formation. 11 Ships can come up to Montreal ; but here dan- gerous rapids commence, and continue nine miles. The canal, to avoid them, may require a length of ten miles; and is now beginning under an incor- porated company. It is to pass behind Montreal, and have a lateral cut from the St. Lawrence, at the entrance of the town. The ground is easy of excavation, and the supply of water inexhaustible : in two or three years it will be open for transport. The whole expense is not expected to exceed L.80,000 ; and such is the trade that must pass through it, that the stock-holders will, in two or three years after it is in operation, share their maxi- mum, 01 15 per cent. Lake Ontario is reckoned 200 feet above the St. Lawrence at Montreal, which may be divided into three unequal parts. From the head of the St. Lawrence, where it leaves the Lake, to the Rapid Flat, a distance of 90 miles, there is not more than 40 feet fall ; from the Rapid Plat to Lake St. Fran- cis, a distance of 40 miles, there is a fall of 55 ; the next 26 miles, called Lake St. Francis, shew some current, and may give a declivity of six feet. From the Coteau du Lac to Lake St. Lewis, nearly 22 miles, the fall may be estimated at 57 feet ; and the Lachine Rapids 42 feet, in a distance of twelve miles. It is obvious that much of conjecture enters UPPER CANADA. 109 into this calculation j but it will not be found very wide of the truth. To allow sloops and steam-boats to go from Mon- treal to Lake St. Francis, two canals are necessary, of about equal difficulty— the Lachine canal, just begun ; and the Cedar canal, of much the same length. This canal commences near the junction of the Ottawa, or Grand River, and the St. Law- rence, and enters Lake St. Francis near the east end. The estimated expense, L.75,000; so that L. 155,000 would cure all the defects of the St. Lawrence within the limits of Lower Canada. The impediments in Upper Canada are less consi- derable ; it is not thought a greater sum than L.60,000 would be necessary to remove every im- pediment. But the provincial revenue is too limit- ed at present to admit the disbursement of this sum, small as it is, and great as the advantages must be to the colony. The House of Assembly, in conjunction with the legislative council, sensible of these advantages, and their present inability, have petitioned his Royal Highness the Prince Re- gent, througli his excellency Sir Peregrine Mait- land, for a grant of 100.000 acres of land, to assist m such improvements J and as the request goes home, favoured by his excellency, there is little doubt of its being favourably received. Now, this quantity of land, if located in a fa- vourable situation, will sell for two and a half dol- G 3 ne A VISIT TO lars pev acre i that is, L.63»500 for the wholcft or L.2500 beyond our estimate of the leceesary iisk provements. But, should the sum wanted exceed tl»i<; ten or twave tboufiand pounds, no particular impediment would arise ; for th« legislatiuo would vary willingly provide for tbia coatiingency. Having thus, ad a small oxpeose, opened a direct communication between Niiagara and the oeeai]> the next great ol^ecii is the junction of the two La](es Erie and Qkitario, which. na.y be mone easily effected than i» coranioiriy supposed. There arc ieveral perts of tho Chippaw^ where it ib navig.able for vesses of any reasonable size», within fifteen naiJbes of Lake Oatario. F<m: thirty miles the Chip*- pawa resembles> a can^ : the current almost innpei!- ceptible, and very UtUe aiSected by rains; the cbannel deep, and without obstruction. A canal of fourteen^^ miles would reach* to the head of the vpouivtain, close on Lake Ontario,, io^sevecalpkiicefr} ^r locks would be su^ient in tbis.di^ancekr^ The height; of the hHl, withiu a. distance of tw.o nailer of Lake Ontario,. i» ^50 feet ; r,e<|juiring upt- ws^ds of thirty locks, all very near one another. The grea^li expeose of so mm^ locks* and the tinie lost^iapaasing and re-p£»8ing them,, seem ti» poini: out a vailrway as more advanta^ous^, The basin at the end of the canal should be formed at some distance from the top of the hill, making the rail- way* with ite Mundings> about four miles, before it reached the wba«fe on Lake Ontario* The distri- UPf ftft CAifAl>A, ill butJon of the height of 250 feet would hardly be peteeptMe'm this distance. Thecanikl, foirrteert milefs long, will cost L.40,000 ; and the rdl-way, four miles, L.lo,ooO; and L.10,GO0 for stotes and wharfs— forming an aggregate of L/Ja,0CO; fot joining the two Lakes. After passing into Lake Erie, to which there is m difficulty, from the mouth of the Chfppawa, except a mile of rapid water at Black Rock, the navigation is open through Lakes Sinclair, Hnron, and Michigan ; and a triflhig expense at the sfrdJt of St. Mary, will enable vessels to proceed into Lake Superior. There is one other improvement connected with this line, which I consider of great importanc^e to a large and wealthy section of the province, namely, a communication between the Grand River and Chippawa. The Grand River is navigable for boats to a great distance from its mouth. It abounds in mill seats of the best description, ca- pable of turning any machinery whatever; and the country through which it runs is of the first quality, and must, in a short time, become rich in the pro- duction of grain. It would, therefore, be of infinite advantage to possess a water communication to hak& Ontario, which may be eflected by a canal of five miles in length ; for so near do the Grand River and Chippawa approach to one another. This would complete the main line of internal naviga(»ion, and bring the greater part of the proviwce close to G 4 1 f\ ! '1 ? V lis A VISIT TO the ocean. What is pecuHarly encouraging, there is no expense to be incurred which can be considered beyond our reach. The communication between the two lakes will not be required for a few years, as the surplus produce, for some time, will find an im- mediate market among the new settlers, who are flocking in great numbers to the London and Western districts ; and before that period elapses, the provincial treasury will enable the legislature to appropriate, without any difficulty, a sum suffi- cient to pay the interest of the capital laid out in making the canals, rail-ways, &c. «i> Recapitulation of expense to effect this great object. In Lower Canada. ... ... The Lachine Canal, - L.80,000 ^ Th^Canal of the Cedars, - 75,000 Total expense to Lower Canada In Upper Canada. ' Rendering the river navigable from Cornwall to Prescott, by short canals, deepening the rivers, &c. . L.60,000 Connecting Lakes Ontario and ^"®» :' ' • - , 60,000 L. 155,000 t'.- .;;: Total expense to Upper Canada The grard total of opening a communi- ., cation between the great Lakes of Canada and the sea. 120,000 L.^75,000 b i-M UPPER CANADA. 113 A sum not equal to the expense of many small canals of England ; not even beyond the ability of many individuals, who would soon make an im- mense profit by a very moderate charge on the boats, rafts, and vessels, passing through these canals, for a limited number of years. The benefits that must soon flow from su^n an extensive communication are obvious; and the cheapness with which it may be done is wonderful. But this arises from the ease with which the canals can be supplied with water, and the little value at- tached to the lands through which they would pass ; most people would give what was required for nothing. But it may be said, that before the plan can be finished, the commerce of the western coun- tries will have taken a different channel. Were we to act vigorously, our improvements might be in operation two years before the great western canal ; but it is recommended chiefly on account of our own commerce. This country is growing rapidly, and her productions will in a short time . be very great. The commerce that may come through our waters from our neighbours I consider adventitious— it may be prohibited by their laws. Let us stand upon our own bottom, and improve for our own benefit. If our water communications are found beneficial to our neighbours, and induce them to bring their produce to our markets, so much the better j but this ought not to be our h /~ .... — J ^ V— &- lU A VISIT TO moving principle. There is every reason to be- lieve, that the great western canal will bt of more benefit to Montreal than to New York i because the Montreal merchanta can afford to give greater prices fbi provisions of all kinds* which they can carry to the West Indies. It has frequently been said, by intn of intelli- gence and observation, that there is no country in the world possessing so good inland water comtnu' nications as the Caoadas. But the principal one which we have been describing is liable to great objection in time of war : it foriiis» in the greater part of its line, the boundary between the Provinces and the United States, and is liable to interruption during hostilities. This was found very detrimen- tal in the late war ; and the communication be« tween Upper and Lower Canada was frequently cut off for a time, and the supplies taken, or greatly delayed. This si^gested the profpriety of opening a water communication between Montreal and Kingston, by rocfins of the Ottawa river. To facilitate this ]^an, the country between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa required to be settled j and, accordingly, it is filling with disbanded officers and soldiers very rapidly, who have their lands assigned them in this tract, under the superintendance of tht' quarter- flwster-general. ii:':l ^_> I4..W- UPPER CANADA. iu The sttfveyori, in laying out the country in towBsbtpe, and dividing it into lots lor the settleri^ have discovered, that the river Rideau, rumuog into the Ottawa, is navigable for boats through a great part of its course j that it istues froBi a chain oflakeainthe middle of the peninsula (between the two great rivera), which run nearly as far up as Kingston. In fine, it is ascertained that fifty thousand pound* would conaplete the ioternal coanmuTMcation between Montseal and Kingston, with the exception ei one carrying pbce of two huodred yards, at Ib^ mouth of the Rideau, where it joins the Ottawa. Other riv&i»^ rwam^ into the Ottawa, have been discovered, which facilitate uNercourse very bbucIk From Kingston there it m water commumication up> the bay of Qaiaie sixty roilea,. which cannot heioteifruiiAedj and this n»y be continued up. the Trent into the Rice Lakes ^ and so, by lakes and rivers, into Lake Simcoe, in the rear of York.— This poiitiiw* of the line^ after enteriiig into the Treat Jft not yet sufficieatly explored, to form aa estimaAfrofi iibe expense, k is supposed that se* verai short sail-ways^ woald ofler a cheaper f&ode of connectifig the- aavigable waters than caoals. Of the practicability of continuing this in*eral com- munication as far, and even farther than Lake Simcoe, there is no doubt. V I I ( V 116 A VISIT TO His Grace the Duke of Richmond, with a zeal for the improvement of the Canadas highly grati- fying to the inliabitants, and worthy of his benevo- lent mind, has already begun to remove tiie impe- diments in the Ottawa, to where the river Rideau joins it ; and, in a very short time, this route to Kingston will be commonly taken. June 2.5th, we returned to Black Rock; and, crossing over, drove to Fort Erie, famous during the late war, from the singular spectacle of an American army allowing themselves to be besieged in it by half their number of British troops. Having determined to take a more minute view of the Falls of Niagara, we stopped only a few mi- nutes at Fort Erie. On passing towards Chippawa, we saw the British commissioner and his party, for ascertaining the boundary, encamped on an island some distance from the shore. . -4 ftjf jf p., The village of Chippawu, through which we pas- sed, consists of very few houses, but neat and clean in appearance. We saw a great number of oak staves piled on its banks, and beheld several teams loading them to carry to Queenstjuj t uc head of the navigation, and then to be shi-ip^v. fj Lower Canada. Is CM I We asked whether it was possible to carry them so far, with any prospect of advantage ? * The ■.^»■ UPPER CANADA. 117 Staves you see piled.' said a merchant to whom we had addressed ournolves for information, • are made by the farmers: when clearing their land, they cut up such good oak trees as they meet with into staves, rather than burn them. By this means, they are enabled to sell them cheap, and still be gamers.' The lumber trade has always been considered one of the great staples of Canada; but I did not thmk that It could have been extended beyond the shores of Lake Ontario. The forests produce a great variety of different woods, fit for ship and house building, and all sorts of cabinet work.— Masts of the largest size are procured easily, some 128 feet long, and four or five feet diameter. Very fine oak timber is found in abundance, commonly straight, and excellent for planking ships, and staves and heading. The quantity will always bear pro- portion to the demand ; more especially since the diminution of freight and risk enables the merchant to purchase it on Lake Erie. The most beautiful furniture may be made of the curled and bird-eye mapple ; tiie cherry is nearly equal to mahogany ; the black walnut looks well. Ihere is, besides, a great variety of species of dif- ferent kinds of wood, which will be found useful, as the country improves, and experiments are 118 A VISIT TO THE FALLS. My brother, after some hesitation, ventured down the precipice ; and, having reached the bed of the river below, we were well rewarded. It was now that my expectations were realized : the height of the rock — the thundering of the Fall— - the spray forming in rain-bows — the vast volume of water rolling over the impending precipice, pro- duced a sensation overpoweringly sublime. We passed to the American side in a flat bottomed boat, which appears to me rather dangerous, on account of the swell and agitation of the river so n'-^ar the fall ; the boat ought to be sharper. On the American side, you are able to approach to within a few feet of the Fall, which is small in comparison of the Horse-Shoe, or Main Fall. The whole fall is divided by an island into two unequal parts; and this on the American side may rather be termed beautiful, than sublime. h Mi General Porter has made a flight of steps from the top of the rock to the base, which is extremely UPP«a CANADA. 119 ventured the bed . It was sed : the he Fall— : volume pice, pro- ne. We bottomed srous, on e river so 3er. approach s small in all. The [> unequal lay rather teps from extremely useful, as there was no getting up and down on this side before ; but it spoils the picturesque of the scenery, as it is enclosed in a sort of wooden frame, covered with boards. The wild vine, or hop, might be made to shade it, and thus restore the scenery to its former excellence. We went up the steps, to view the bridge made by General Porter, to the island, which divides the Falls, and is a very great curiosity. The water is so rapid where the bridge is built, that I was at a great loss to conjecture how it could have been erected. On passing the bridge to the island, in order to have every possible view of the Falls, we found the huts of tUe American commissioner and his party for ascertaining the boundary line. One of the gentlemen politely asked us to enter the tent, and drink a glass of wine, which we very thankfully did. The day being very warm, we were much fatigued climbing up and down the precipices. I asked immediately how the bridge was made ? General Porter failed in his first at- tempt, a httle higher up. but he was determined to proceed. After some deliberation as to the best mode, several pine trees of great lengtu were drawn to the bank ; their butt ends resting on the bank, their other ends projecting over the river as fer as was judged proper, to make the first pier. The part of the trees on land being much heavier than the portion above the water, the whole was covered with planks. A basket of wicker work was j , \ J HO A VISIT TO i f then made, and was, with great difficulty, kept in its place ; indeed it would have been impossible, but that the water ran through it. Stones were put into it, and then a frame of timbers gradually put around it, piece by piece, and joined, and filled with stones, till the pier became high enough and steady, by reaf^on of the great weight of the stones. The crib, or frame of the pier, rests on the smooth rock, and preserves its place by its gravity or weight. This pier became a resting place for other timbers, to project over a second portion of the river, to form the next pier, &c. and so on, till the whole bridge was finished, at an expense of more than one thousand pounds. The island consists 6f about eighty acres of fine land'; but it was rather as a public accommodation that the bridge was built. iM Afler conversing some time with the two gentle- men of the tent, whom we found very intelligent, and gentlemanly in their conduct, we returned to Mr. Forsyth's inn, to dine, on our own shore. As the steam-boat was to sail on the 26th, we determined to return to Niagara this evening, and on our way to visit the Whirlpool. It appears that the river has made an attempt to break through to the north j but not being able, it is forced to turn to the north-east, forming a tremendous basin, containing a dreadful whirlpool, from which no- thing can escape. Several trees had been in it till ml UPPER CANADA. 121 thoy were all worn ; when they went into the vor- tex, you were tired looking for their re-appearance. The banks are extremely high, and the whole scene awfully sublime. Some people are more struck with this than with the falls. We found at Niagara that smuggling is not un- known in this new country. The collector had made a seizure of some contraband wares from the United States. All produce or manufactures may come in. on paying a trifling duty j but foreign wares and merchandize are prohibited. Now, as the communication between France and the States IS open, French goods of all descriptions, and Chi- nese goods, teas, &c. are often smuggled into Ca- nada. The boundary is long, and it is impossible to guard it in all parts. A newspaper was placed on the table after din- ner, giving some account of the late expedition to the North Pole. The voyage has not been satis- factory, but it has determined against the possibility of ever sailing through the Polar seas into the Pa. cific Ocean; for, if any passage exists, it is in too high a latitude ever to be free from ice. If merely reaching the Pole were an object of importance, it might, I think, be accomplished, said a gentleman, who I found had been, in his youth, an active fur- trader, and passed several winters in latitude 69^* It would take two years : the first two depots of provisions might be made, one at 80, and another H k m A VISIT TO ds high as 8J°. The second summer we might pro- ce^ as early as possible, pass our depots, and make our way to the Pole j going by rivers as far as we possibly could, and then with hand-sleighs dragging our canoes, when sailing was not practicable* It is not probable that there is much, if any open sea, at the Pole ( and we might easily carry provisions to hst us from 85 lo 90*, and back. Repeated trials might be necessary before the object was acoom- plished ; and it might be found that the second voyage, from 80 to 85', where the depot of provi- sions, Sec. was made, would be better in winter than in summer. During the winter, it is very light about the Pole, and in all the northern regions $ «o that the supposed darkness, from the absence of the sun, would be no impediment. With dining and conversation, the six hours that we were in the steam-boat passed agreeably ; and we found our- selves at York in time for tea. QUEST. VIII. •;1 I. UPPER CANADA. .'' . ■'. 1 li •"'■'. . . ' 'i '". t .* ' * ' ' ■ ■ • r ■ '^ l'^ QUEST. VIII. . ' i i - ■ — . What is the State of Religion ? :••'?, !■ « >:rvn: i. ! The province was first settled by disbanded sol- diers and loyalists. Th6se people were supplied with provisions and implements of husbandry by government ; but, being scattered over an immense surface, it was not so easy to administer to their spiritual wants. There were only two clergymen in the province for many years, one of the Church ot England, which is the established chur.h, and one of the Church of Scotland. When the province of Quebec was divided, the king signified his intention toparliament of making some provision for a protestant clergy, by which the people might enjoy all the benefits of religious instruction, without being put to any serious ex- pense For this purpose, he devoted one-seventh ot all the lands in the province. To follow up this pious and benevolent measure and to encourage the establishment with more con' venience, a bishop of Quebec was appointed re- taming the former name of the colony, that both H 2 124 A VISIT TO ! ■'■f'l I provinces might be included in the diocese. The established clergy begin to increase : there are at present twelve m this pro' ince ; a great number is expected from England ; and three or four young men belonging to the country are prepared to take orders, and others have commenced their studies. All denominations are con?pletely free, for there is no political power conferred upon the establish- ment. Presbyterians, Calvinists, and Lutherans, have a right to marry, on proving themselves, to the satisfaction of the quarter-sessions, the ministers of a particular congregation. There are in the pro- vince five congregational clergyrrien, six catholic clergymen, and a very considerable number of methodist preachers. The one-seventh of the land reserved for the support of a clergy has hitherto been unproductive ; and this, among other reasons, may have retarded the growtli of the church j but the prospects are brightening, and a clergyman will soon be found in every settled township. At present the clergy of the established church are paid by the venerable Society for propagating the Gospel in foreign parts ; and, while government grants lands in fee simple for nothing, few persons will take up reserves, except in old settlements. But, as the settlements extend, they will be more :^MII'ML ,. , : ^^Wfl-m— m ; ^,^ UPPER CANADA. 125 sought after, and become productive ; so that, in a few years, there is every reason to believe, that they will yield enough to maintain a considerable number of clergymen. - ,, ^ ... ^, .; ' ■' ■■ ■ ' - >■■■ ' ■ . :^.■• . The livings have been lately increased, through the munificence of the British parliament, aiding the Society for propagating the Gospel in foreign parts, from L.150 to L.200 sterling per annum, clear of all deductions. Since the war, the climate IS no longer deemed frightful, or the state of so- ciety nearly savage ; and the same difficulties will not be experienced in procuring clergymen from England, as heretofore. . a. . . .,UH^^,i, ,,.,- hv ■ ff'ij, My brother says, that, since the return of peace, a great change is observable among the inhabitants : many are become desirous of religious instruction, who used to be cold and indifferent. In the old settlements, the majority of the people are getting comfortable in their circumstances; and though not able to spare much from their little earnings to support religious institutions, they would yet gladly receive the gospel, if offered to them. In many places, they are coming forward with a generous zeal, highly gratifying, to build churches ; and are soliciting, with anxiety, the establishment of a settled minister. The prospect of obtaining a re- spectable clergyman unites neighbourhoods toge- ther ; and when he is once fixed, and is of a mild conciliating disposition, he is sure to make a con- H 3 I 126 A VISIT TO grcgation. For, though differing in tjieir religious Tiewsi or rememberiDg that their parents were at- tached to different principles, some may, for a time, keep aloof, yet the presence of a minister, who merits their esteem, by answering their doubts, and removing their scruples, gradually wins them over j and when they become accustomed to the form of worship, and hear him explaining the doctrines of the gospel, they will soon collect around hira, and consider themselves his flock. No man need hesitate coming to Canada, on ac- count of religion : if of the established church, he has the same privileges as before j if of a different denomination, h? has full liberty. ■V: i. n' ■'■ , ,i: ■I \ f lU lO .., .--, EDUCATION. UPPER CANADA. m EDUCATION. f' " 'i*. .;. ';} •/ f J^K n^" ^"^ y '•""•rted. th»t it wa. reserved DrUt^h"'"M-"''''8'°" '° »"«««" ""d put „ prart.ce the .ubl.m. work of educting a \vho e f„rir "'""■•'r '*'"' "•« "Wld'. L da^ m tllZ. '.r*' '"'""■""* giving it instruction t in crurfh h. ' *^''- ^"^""^'-g'y. the Chris- TJvIa l • '" '^^'y """""y where ithaabeen Mtabl shed. d,ew„ a becoming solicitude for the directing the.r minds to » knowledge of the Uadiflg and n>port,nt doctrines of the holy soripturef Nor .. the praise of this conduct eon/nedTZ but « due to all denominations. The v^wfof J 'li' ""<.' **"^ *° W«=«te the ya« advantages rea^itmgfromsuch knowledge, even when con*^ to .t. s„»p e eff^t of enlarging the understandlT and elevating the sentiments j bM wh«» J„S oo Ctast.»n v.ews. it habituates yo^. from £ earliest infancy, to proper government and <«sci' H 4 1^8 A VISIT TO ift pline, and qualifies them to enter life with advan- tage. If they attend a public school so conducted, their manners are formed in a society of consi- derable extent, and under many salutary restraints and regulations. They are brought into a field similar to that in which they will afterwards act, when they become members of a larger society. The behaviour of every individual is placed under the vigilant review of a great number of his equals ; and motives and restraints are here employed simi- lar to those which are found so powerful and bene- ficial in directing the conduct of mankind. In this country the great excellence of such an education, flowing naturally from a regular esta- blishment of Christianity, or a numerous clergy, whether paid by the state, or supported by the people, has not been experienced, on account of the slow progress of the church ; but, though this has been a sore hindrance, more has been done than, under such circumstances, could have been expected. Soon after the formation of the settlements, as- sistance was offered by Lord Dorchester. Lands were afterwards set apart, to support a University and inferior schools ; but these lands have not as yet been productive. In the mean time, several respectable seminaries were established, and a great number of small schools, throughout the province. ft- UPPER CANADA. 129 In 1807, a law was enacted, establishing a school m every district, in which the classics and mathe- matics were to be taught j the teacher to have a salary of L.loo per annum. This law has been very beneficial. Eight superior schools were esta- Wished, one in each great division of the province where young men receive such an education as qua! hfies them for the different professions ; besides, these schools will become excellent nurseries for the University. ; .j ,„; i._. At present, the district schools are as flourishing as any public institution can be expected to be; and. It there are any complaints, they are of a partial and local nature, which do not militate against theprin- ciple of the law. *^ . The legislature, finding the revenue greatly in- creased in 1816, a law was passed, containing many excellent provisions for establishing and supporting common schools in every village or township in the province. This law is about to expire ; and, in re- newing it, the legislature will, no doubt, alter some of Its clauses ; one of which, « that there shall be a school ,n every town, village, or place, where twenty scholars can be collected,' is injudicious, as produc- ing too many schools of the lowest description. Several other amendments may be made, which will render it more liberal and efficient j and, at the same time, be accompanied with a very con- siderable diminution of expense. I i ISO A VISIT TO In aid of what the wisdom of the legialature may continue to bestow upon the education of youth, something may soon be looked for from the benefi- cence of the crown. •I- ii'^ It is indeed said that a University is going to be soon established, depending upon lands for its sup- port, and future extension. The character of the present lieutenant-governor, who has nothing more anxiously at heart than the promotion of religion and education throughout the province, gives cur- rency to this rumour. The plan said to be in agitation is, to commence with a principals or president, and three or four professors ; these gentlemen to give two or three courses of lectures to different classes during the season, from some of which courses they will be relieved as soon as the funds admit of the appoint- ment of additional professors. Two scholarships are to be attached to each district, by which, at the end of every two years, the best scholar at the district school has an oppor- tunity o£ obtaining a scholarship at college, which will maintain him four years. The number of scho- larships attached to each district to be increased, till they amount to four, or even more, if the re- venues of the University allow. In this manner will the door to a liberal education be opened to the poorer inhabitant ; and we may live to see the UPPER CANADA. 131 children of the farmer and mechanic filling the highest offices in the colony, to which they have raised themselves by their superior talents, fostered by the benevolent institutions of their country. The nftcessity of sending young men out of the province to finish their education, ought to be re- moved ; for the specimens that have been tried have disappointed the just expectations of their friends. Few can support the great expense of sending their children .o Great Britain ; and pa- rental anxiety reluctantly trusts them at such a distance from its care, observation, and controul. If they are sent to the United States, there is much reason to fear that they will return with sentiments unfriendly to our different establishments ; as the whole system of education, even to primary school books, in that country, is pervaded with pernicious politics, breathing hatred to the parent state. , There is no subject more important to the true prosperity of the province than the careful educa- tion of its youth ; for it is only by a well instructed population that we can expect to preserve our ex- cellent constitution, and our connexion with the British empire, or give that respectability to the country which arises from an intelligent magistracy, and from public situations fiUed with men of ability and information. 132 A VISIT TO tj, I (* 1 ! The liberal professions now demand the esta- blishment of a University. The church requires a long course of study, which cannot at present be obtained. Young men des gned for the bar, have not the necessary opportunities for preparing them- selves for that important profession. The students of medicine, the sons of liberal merchants and of the more opulent landholders, would certainly attend a seminary on an extensive scale ; and it is very certain that, in a few years after its establishment, more than one hundred students would be found at the University of Upper Canada. The present state of education consists of eight district schools, at which upwards of 300 boys are now taught the higher branches of education, the classics, mathematics, &c.; and the common schools, in which upwards of 5000 children are instructed j besides a great number of schools of a similar de- scription, to which the bounty of government can- not be extended. Sunday schools are likewise getting numerous, in which religious instruction is obtained by many who are not in circumstances to attend schools throughout the week. No man need be deterred from coming to Canada on ac- count of the education of his children j for he can get them (generally speaking) cheaper and as well instructed in Canada as at home. QUEST. IX. UPPER CANADA. 133 the esta- equires a resent be bar, have ng them- students nd of the y attend t is very lishment, )e found of eight boys are tion, the I schools, tructed ; Tiilar de- lent can- likewise iction is ances to Sfo man I on ac- r he can as well ST. IX. QUEST. IX. The Population — Militia. This colony was at first settled by about tea thousand souls, consisting of disbanded soldiers and refugees, at the close of the American rebellion. After 1784, great numbers came into the country from the United States, whose peculiar circum- stances prevented them from availing themselves sooner of the king's bounty. In 1790, the popula- tion was supposed to have doubled, and in 1800 it was reckoned about 40,000, but entirely from con- jecture ; for, although there is a law by which an accurate return of the population of each town- ship ought to be made Qvery year, it is seldom com- plied with. At this time there cannot be fewer than 120,000 souls in Upper Canada; and if they double in fourteen years, as has been supposed to be the case, there will soon be a numerous popula- tion by natural increase. But so great a number of emigrants are daily coming into the province, that it greatly affects the population ; and I am persuaded, that the numbers are doubled in ten years, and will continue to do so for many years to come. In twenty years, or by 1840, there will 134 A VISIT TO be nearly half a million of souls in the province ; and in ten years more, a million. After which, the density of the population will, in some degree, impede the rapidity of the increase ; for it is only while lands are easily procured, that this increase continuer) so astonishingly great. # iV MILITIA. Every male inhabitant, from sixteen years of age to sixty, is deemed capable kS bearing arms, and must enroll his name as a militia-man, on the first training day of his division, giving in his name, his age, his residence, and the place from whence he came, if a stranger ; and those who neglect complying with this requisition, are liable to be fined. Persons above tb<? age of fifty, are not required to bear arms, except on the king's birth- day, or in time of war, or any great emergency. The colonel, or officer commanding, may call out his regiment of militia, in divisions, when he shall deem it expedient ; this provision is said to be too mucii neglected. The townships generally form one or more companies, and several town- ships form a battalion, which is commanded by colonels, and other subordinate officers, as in tlie regular service. Formerly, there was a lord-lieu- UPPER CANADA. 135 tenant in every county, who commanded the whole militia, and who ranked as full colonel in the field. He had the power of appointing the officers ; but this has been changed ; and officers are now appointed by the lieutenant-governor, generally on the recommendation of the commanding officer of the battalion, communicated through the adjutant, general of militia. There are no general officers in the militia ; the governor is head of the military as well as civil power. The regiments of militia are to consist of not more than ten, nor less than eight companies ; and these companies shall con- tain not more than fifty, nor fewer than twenty men. The field-officers of such regiments are di- rected to be a colonel, a lieut.-colonel, and major. To each battalion there must be attached an adju- tant and quarter-master. The law requires every tnilitia-man to provide himself with arms, viz. a musket, fusil, rifle, or gun, with at least six rounds of powder and ball ; but this injunction is indifferently complied with. The whole militia of the province, able for service, may be estimated at 16,000 men. TAXES. . , .:. The people of Upper Canada cannot be said to pay any taxes. The duties on articles of consump- 136 A VISIT TO ^ tion are so trifling, as not to be felt ; and, being chiefly collected at Quebec, are scarcely known to one-tenth part of the inhabitants. There are a few small duties paid upon certain articles imported from the United States; from all which, and the licences on shops and taverns, a small revenue is raised, which is placed at the disposal of the legislature. The British parliament still pays a large portion of the civil government of the province ; and most of the money at the disposal of the provincial legis- lature is laid out in internal improvements, and for local purposes. The road law, which obliges every person to perform a certain quantity of labour upon the pub- lic high-ways, in proportion to his means, and the county assessments, cannot be called taxes j the money arising from them is laid out within the county or township, and makes the property more valuable. In the session of parliament just finished, these laws have been modified, and rendered more just in principle than before. The road bill, as it now stands, recognizes the true principle of taxation, viz. that the rich should pay more than the poor. till f i si UPPER CANADA. 137 By the assessment law, all lands granted in fee, or in lease, are declared rateable ; so that all ab- sentees, or persons living out of the province, who possess large tracks of land, and which are becom- ing daily more valuable by the industry of the re- sident landholders and cultivators, will now be forced to contribute their share to the common good. THE CONSTITUTION OF UPPER CANADA. The constitution of this province is a transcript of that of Great Britain. * There shall be,* says the 31st of the king, « within each of the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, a Legislative Council and House of Assembly, who, with the consent of the governor appointed by the king, shall have power to make laws.' Bills passed by the two branches become laws, by the governor's assent • but yet are liable to the consideration of the king, who may express his dissatisfaction, at any time within two years. The governor has a vote upon bills passed by both Houses j or they may be referred, by him, for his majesty's pleasure. The legislative council consists of ten members, but they are never all present, 7 or 8 only giving regular attendance. The House of Assembly, con! 1S6 A VISIT TO II m sifiting of twenty4ive members, vtho are chosen by tbe freeboiders in the dificrent towns and counties, is in the piace of the Heine of Commons. The members of counties are chosen by those who pos- sess real property of the annual value of forty shiU lings. The voters for the towns must possess a house or land of the yearly value of five pounds sterling, or have been residents one year, and paid ten pounds sterling rent per annum. The Coun- cil and Assembly are to be called together at least once a-year ; and every assembly continues four years, unless sooner dissolved, which it is in the power of the governor to do, as soon and as often as he thinks proper. The voters must, if called upon, take an oath that they are qualified to vote according to law. The parliament was in session during my stay at York ; and, having been frequently in the House of Commons, I very easily accounted for the scorn which some writers have thrown upon colonial legislatures. But it is hardly fair to compare the persons elected for the House of Assembly to the members of the House of Commons. And it is easy to say, that their means of information, their ignorance, their want of education, the narrowness of their early conceptions, their prejudices ana pas- sions, disqualify them from becoming legislators j but all this is declamation. I found several of them men of great intelligence ; and those who had not possessed so good opportunities, were •'■■ ■ rv UPPEU CANADA. 139 Ironist, WeH-meanihg men j and the united msdxm of the two Hbtises dW mt appear to mte deficient fbi- teha-ctifag the most texbeltent ]^iv6, Ind-e^d the pttHiAtttfeht WAS iftufch rttid^ r^pectable than I '^k- piBtted, Att((^ dfeseri^ihg of ^^vei-y support; I was in- formed that the HbuSfe of AiiRfembly, notwithstand- ing the rapid growth of the province, has idded none to its numbers for many years past ; but an augm6ntatfon h ftbw feontertplated, and wil^ ho doubt, dooh tlake pbeb. I ihafl rtdt tYim tnto thfe poh'cy bf dividing the tWd pt^Vinteftfe, jkhd thte commercial difficulties ther^ : by pi-odUced, ^s my object is to give infdrmation tb temfgi-anis ; bttd thtese Impediment^ may be very eajJily remo^^d by the ImpeHal PiHiamentj for it has i^tdin6d th6 pt)W6r 6f making commercial te- gulations. Thfe fexfecutiv^ govfernment donsisis of thfe h'eut;- governon the pHvy council of five membersi ahd the drown officdr^i wh^h Specially called upon. Consequently, ah fihglishmani coming to this pro- vihce, glv6fe Up fiothing-^he sits down under the sdlhe government as at homb j and he will find it ihcbssahtly employed in promoting the good of the cdUr tfy. Thfe tt-uth is, there cdn be only one in. tdtest common td aill j tbr the different authorities, with the ekceptioh of the lieut.-governor, afe men residing in the country, who have little or no ex- ; 2 i 140 A VISIT TO pectation of ever leaving it ; consequently, they are interested in promoting its prosperity ; and the only recommendation that the governor can carry with him to England is, that, under his administra- tion, the province committed to his charge hath increased in attachment to the mother country, in wealth and population. During the remainder of my stay at York, I took short incursions into the country in different direc- tions, and saw the mode of changing a wilderness into fruitful fields, in all its different steps, from the felling of the first tree on the lot, with the wife and children encamped under the thick shade of another, to the comfortable frame-house, and the large barn, well filled with the produce of fine fields, where scarce the stump of a tree could be seen. The industry of man never appears to great- er advantage than in this operation. When you look at Upper Canada, now in many places full of inhabitants, large farms, handsome buildings, towns and villages rising, and reflect that thirty years ago the whole was a dismal wood, where no human ha- bitation was seen, or voice heard, you are filled with admiration. And what is said of Canada may, with still greater truth, be said of all North Ame- rica. Upwards of ten millions of inhabitants are now living in comparative plenty and ease, where a few Indians, and the wild animals, procured a very scanty support. I'- ini UPPE& CANADA. 141 My brother had, by his exertions and encourage* ment among the people, caused a chapel to be built, about eight miles from York, where he offi- ciates once a month j one of the young students under his care reading the service, and a sermon on the intermediate Sundays. On his day of doing duty, I went with him, and was highly gratified. The chapel is built in a thick wood ; the ground on which it stands, and a small space for a burial- ground, having been cleared on purpose. This gives a most picturesque, and, as it struck me, a solemn appearance to the scene. The church is too low for its length, but it is very comfortably fitted up. The dimensions are 60 feet by 30 : the pews are very decent; and, what was much better, they were filled with an attentive congregation. As you see very few inhabitants on your way out, I could not conceive wher all the people came from; and it was pleasing to hear the voice of prayer and thanksgiving rising up from the wilder- ness, I hope in sweet memorial, before the Lord. The people were clean and neatly dressed, and in- terested in the service. After the sermon, the clergyman descended from the pulpit, and went to a small altar, erected be- hind it, in the east end of the church. He then directed that those who were desirous of being bap- tized should approach. Never was I more asto- nished than to see five grown-up persons, the youngest upwards of twenty, and the eldest perhaps I 3 U2 A v^^j^T 19, forty^ IW'oce^d to tb^ aUar. ^n Scotland, I had nevei; see^v a grov^ivup peifsop baptized,, exc^pA once, hy th,^ Ai?a|>aptist^ j for i,t i^ tl^e miiven^ad practice, ta Ipftptize chf^^n as, sppij after they 9^^ born aft possiWe* T^e soliemnity before me w^W n^w, but h^gbliX im^restipg : t^his calm an4 digqifle4 smipwso^^s mik \vbi.<?K tjhe clergyipafl addressed the per,9Pn3. to bQ bflj^MzeiJ. the lively appie^l i»^e Ijq th^if witnes^e^.afld. tb^ pppgr^gatiw?* the sweetaew of Pur Sa,viom:'8 iijyita^ioip, an4 tbie encouragea?^n,t aud hope which h^ feH of their perforiping sipqere- ly tbe VOWS; tbey wer^ taj^ing, firpna. tihpir coming voAiAfttiariily forward, afiected m^* even to teajts, Two (4' thjB candidates were dissolved in tears ; aijd. tjne qgunteoancQ of the ^ldest» a m^n pf r^^hei? a' stern appearance, ^e^rn^dt for a mfmrntt cpayulsedk by nepres^ing bis fee^Pgs, The congregajtipp w^^ fixed in att<entiop, apd: seemed scarcely tp, brea,tbjB^ And. when, t<hey wene taken, pneby pne* and, th^; water poMredi upon them, fpUpwedi by the sign, of the crx)Sfi, accppipapied, by the solemn. aod(iflteres$- ing words, * We receive tihis. person into the copgrcf gation of Chxist's flock, and dp sign him. with tb^ sign of the cross, in token that hereafter he shall not be ashamed tp, confess the faith in. Christ cruci- fied, and manfwUy tp fight upder, his bapner against sin, the world and: the devil, and tp cpptippe Christ's, faithful spldjer ^nd servant untp life's end*' tber« was ppta soul pr;esept t^jat did. ppt sincerely ciy,. Aroep, 'Eh^ ex.citement was tpo great to. h&yj^' continpiBd, much longer j but our blpssed religion UPPEB CAKAOA. 149 never appeared to me before so beautiful and in. teresting. On our return home. I enquired of my brother, whether such occurrences frequently happened ? • Smce the building of this church, I have baptized nearly four hundred persons, half of them grown-up. sometimes fifteen or sixteen together.' It is al- ways interedting to behold sncfe coming forwErd to baiitisM— it is encouraging to the clergyman i it seeii» to be a blessing on his labours, and » proof th^t they are not m vain. r 4 QUEST. X, 144 A VISIT to QUEST. X. » r I *'■ f Are there many Indians f The number of natives within the province is very small. There is a village of Indians in the lower district, who have a very considerable reserve of land left for their support, but which is now surrounded by wh'**** settlers, and requires to be purchased by go\ u. ^nt ; for it is no longer of any use as hunting ground, while it impedes the settlements, and yields nothing to the tribe. Along all the back settlements there are scatter^ ed families, or tribes of Indians, of the Missasagua nation, to whom the country originally belonged* In the western district there are still a few Dela- wares and Pottawatamies ; but the principal Indian settlements are two of the Mohawks, or Six Na- tions ; a small one, in the midland district, near Kingston, to whom a large township was granted at the close of the American rebellion. The larger division of the Six Nations is settled on Lake Erie, along the banks of a river called Grand River, which was purchased from the original Indians for their benefit ; as they, as well as the portion settled in the midland district, had been driven by the Ame* UPPKE CANADA. 14£i ricans from their possessions on the Mohawk, in the State of New York. The cause of the division of the Mohawk tribes, when they came to Canada, was owing to Captain John, a native Indian, of great courage and con- duct, and the most eloquent of all his countrymen, and an acknowledged war chief, quarrelling with Captain Brant, who, though a most active and zealous and able counsellor, had no r?^, ^ to lead the tribes in war ; but who, nevertheless, acquired an almost unbounded influence over the greater number. v i The two divisions have kept up a regular com- munication with each other ; and, notwithstanding their difference about their chiefs, in time of war, all would have followed Captain John. Both these great chiefs had died before the late war, a circumstance very detrimental to the British cause, as they left no successors with half their influence, courage, or ability; consequently, the Mohawks were of little or no service. The Indians are no longer a cause of terror to the inhabitants, but are disappearing very fast. I was invited by one of the principal superintendants of Indian affairs, to witness the giving out of the presents to a large proportion of them at Lake Sim- coe, thirty-six miles to the north of York ; and re- gretted very much that circumstances prevented A VISIT TO rae from acce^xting this ioviution. These Indians are Missasaguas, who Hve oa the borders of £aj£e Simcoe, and north, to Lake Huron, and come in ouce a year to get their annuel presents froaa the The qustona of giving piesems to. the Imdians in the neighbouifhood of settleweipts ia coeval with the first planting of North Ameirica by Europeans } tmd as maay of the settletmeats of this proviEbee are in contact with these tierce ehildreiii of nature, we aeemi boimd, both by honour wad interest* to culti- vate a friendly intercourse with them, and, in, some measure, to contribute to their siipport. This is the more reasonable, as the whole country, which is, now covered with Europeans andi theijr descen- dants,, was once iubabited by the Indiani tribes, who have been dispossessed o c by meaos not al» ways JAistifiable ; an^i who. are ueramed in% particu- larfjty in Upper Canada, by the rapid progress, ol" the whites,, in such a manner, as to derive h'ttle or tiQ benefit from hunting oh the lands, reserved for theic use. The wild animals fly from settlements back to the deep and impenetrable forests. Aosong the Indiana, ioi Canada, there are at pre- sent no conspicuous characters,; none of the- chiefs OB waiirioffs possess any coflaaaaadiag influeiice» or are remarkable fbr theitf eloquence* The Mo- hawksj who are the most cultivated; among the na* tive oations, sceHi to< have rather deteriorated^ than »-,"H*l"I»*— 1*W» UPPE^l CANADlA. U7 t improved. mf^Q their removal to Canadju No man of not^ h;a^ arisen among them ^ce the deaitb o^ Captain Br^nt^ who was an ^xtijaordinary cbwacteri that rai^sed h^nself, without any family* comjexiojw^ or ^y natural claims to, distinction, (for these are essential even among Indians) to an eminew:,^ wJwh h^? not been often equalled. ^n a peripdical religions work,, the only one in, Canada, I found a short hiographicai account of this singula w^rrio*;, which caqnot be un^ccepp tabl^ to my readers. The reasons assign/^d by the joMf nalisfi fpc placing the life of such a man in a religious publication, 2M;e, that he translated; part of the hply sqr,iptuj;es into the Mohawk language, and,. pr^eviowSi to the American rebellion, ^aa religiously, inclined? The treatment bestowed upon the In^ di^s by the British, has been, ^jt aJJ, times humjwie, and the gre^jtest deference ha^ been paid to their manners ^n4 custom^. Private persons have been prevented from purchasing lands fi-om, them^ ex. cept under the sanction and direction of govern- ment, by which the value received has been secured for their benefit ; and in all cases where the govern- ment found it necessary to purchase, it has proceed- ed upon the most fair and honourable principles. One great reason for keeping up the Indian de- partment is, to pay regularly, in presents and mo- ney, the annuities coming to the various tribes from the sale of their lands j and as individuals have but in a few cases been allowed to purchase, even under 148 A Visit TO the sanction of government, the purchase moiiey has all gone, without diminution, to the benefit of the Indians. And here it is worthy of remark, that there seems to be a disposition to believe all that the United States say in their own praise as to their kind treatment of the Indians, and to give the British government no credit for any thing they have done ; but were the matter truly stated, it would be found that the Indians, within the bounds of these States, had been used most cruelly. — The very agents of government have cheated them out of the nominal prices given for their lands j and goaded them, even contrary to their judgment, by continued oppression and outrage, to wage a hopeless war. In fine, the policy of that govern* ment, instead of civilizing, is to exterminate the natives j and it has not hesitated, on many occa- sions, to massacre whole villages. On the contrary, the British government treat them at all times like children, and observe most religiously every stipu. lation entered into with them. fi/ || LIFE UPPER CANADA. 149 vf LIFE OF CAPTAIN BRANT. * Sir, * The sketch of Captain Brant, which you will find enclosed, deserves a place in your journai— He was at one time a sincere and zealous Christian. He assisted in translating part of the holy scrip- tures into his native tongue, and intended to de. vote his life to the conversion of his countrymen. He was afterwards corrupted by war, and bad com- pany, but his religious impressions were never en- tirely effaced. From a narrative of such a life, the most useful lessons of improvement may be drawn. I have neither the materials, nor perhaps the ta- lents, necessary to give a finished portrait of Captain Brant, for it would require no small por- tion of each to do justice to a character so variegat- ed and original : I merely attempt an imperfect sketch of this uncommon Mohawk, because the par- ticulars I have to relate are authentic, known to very few persons now living, and are passing fast into oblivion. . It frequently happened, that some families of the six nations were seized with an inclination to travel. In this case they quitted their native place, and ^\ y; i 150 A VISIT TO W:i J .i gradually visited the other villages of the confede- racy : Sometimes they went among the western na- tions, though totally unacquainted with their man- ners and languages ; and after an absence of many years, returned to their native tribe. This happettfed td be thie eiise with Capt. Biiant's family, which had sojourned foir Sbvferal yfears on the banks of the Chit) t his mxkhtt ti lettgth tfew turned, with two childten ; Miaty, who lived with Sir William Johnson, and Joseph, the subject of this memoir. Nothing was ktiowtj of Brant*s ft- ther awong the Mohawks ; but it was generally un^ derstood that he Was born on the Ohio. Soon after the fetum of this family to Canajoharie, the mother married a respectable Indian, called Carrihogs, or News* Carrier, whose Christian name was Barnet, or Bernard ; but, by way of contraction, he went by the name of Brant. Therefore, the subject of dur present enquiry, becoming ofBrant*s family, was known by the distinctive appellation of Bk-ant'S Joseph, which in process of time was inverted, and became Joseph Brant. About this period, there Was a sehobl opened at Dartmouth, in New Hampshire, for the e:tpreSfe purpose of educating Indian children ; to this Se- minary, Brant, with many Mohawk children, were sent. In giving an account of this part of his life, Captain Brabt used to complain, that the ReV. Eieaier Wheelock, the rector or superintendaht Of UPPER CA^TAHA. Ui the sc1h)o1» obliged the Indian childi^n to hoe corn, and perfofm other agricultural kbour, to such m extent, that, on complaint, their mothers thought it prudent to take them honie. At this seminary, Brant learned to read, very indifferently, in the New Testament, and to write a little. Any other proficiency vrhich he acquired in spelling, reading, and writing, was wholly froni his own industry j indeed he would not ventum t6 Write any thing, for many years, without a dictionary and spelling book upon his table. He used, when speaking of Dartmouth college, to relate with much pleasure an anecdote of one of his companions. William, a Mohawk, supposed to be the son of Sir William Johnson, was ordered by Dr. Wheelock's son to saddle his horse. William refused, alledging that, as he was a gentleman's son, it would be out of character for him to do such an office. ^. ii. J* ^< « Do you know,' snys young Wheelock, * what a gentleman is ?' * I do,» says William,—* a gentle- man is a person who keeps race-l arses, and drinks Madeira wine, and that is what neither you nor your father do ; therefore, saddle your horse your- self.' This story shews the discernment of these young Indians, and their aptness, to learn good as well as evil, to be equal to that of other children. Indeed the human mind, whether enclbsed in a white, red, or black tabernacle, exhibits the same qualities and powers, when subjected to similar discipline J and the scripture account, that we are 15« A VISIT TO all the descendants of one common parent, is cor- roborated by the natural history of our species. Joseph Brant, having attained the age of fifteen, joined the Mohawk warriors, under Sir William Johnson, and was present at the memorable battle of Lake George, in which Sir William gained such credit as laid the foundation of his future greatness. Captain Brant told the Rev. Dr. Stuart, to whom he was particularly attached, that, this being the first action at which he was present, he was seized with such a tremor when the firing began, that he was obliged to take hold of a small sapling to steady himself; but that, after the discharge of a few vol- lies, he recovered the use of his limbs, and the com- posure of his mind, so as to support the character of a brave man, of which he was extremely ap- bitious. ) , , . li * During the winter of 1771,* said the Rev. Dr. Stuart to the writer of this narrative, * I first be- came acquainted with Captain Brant. He lived at the Mohawk village, Canajoharie, about thirty miles distant from Fort Hunter, where I then lived, and acted in the character of missionary to the Mo- hawks. On my first visit to the village where he lived, I found him comfortably settled in a good house, with every thing necessary for the use of his family, which consisted of two children, a son and a daughter, with a wife, in the last stage of a consumption. His wife died soon after ; on which II UPPER CANADA. 153 be came to Fort Hunter, and resided with me a considerable time, in order to assist me in adding some additional translations to the then Indian Pray- er Book. When we had finished the gospel of St. Mark, part of the Acts of the Apostles, and a short history of the Bible, with a concise explanation of the Church Catechism. I had orders from the So- ciety to attend to the printing of the whole at New York, at their expense. .,..,ni.) ( '.u^^.^.^cmo Ihe American troubles prevented this; but I brought the manuscripts which I had prepared for the press into Canada, in the year 1781, and deli- vered them into the hands of Colonel Daniel Ciaus, the deputy superintendant of Indian affairs. This < gentleman carried them afterwards to England; and they were printed in a new edition of the Mo- hawk Prayer Book, with a preface, by the late Bishop of Nova Scotia ; that is, the gospel of St. Mark, and a very little besides, after the spelling had been altered to suit Colonel Claus' ear.* Hrr, 'In the winter of 1772 and 1773, Captain Brant applied to Dr. Stuart to marry him to the half- sister of his deceased wife, which the Doctor de- clined, giving him the reasons. that prevented him from complying with his wishes. Captain Brant, on his side, made the same apology that white men generally do for such connexions : he remarked, that she was only a half sister ; that her near rela- tionship to his children, being their aunt, would in- K 154 A VISIT TO .V 'i' '^■ i' I / / ;■■ V sure an additional degree of tendernese to th«m, of' ivhom he pretended to be passionately fond. These arguments not prevailing, he applied to a German minister in his neighbourhood, who tied the knot "without any scruple. At thi« period of his life, Captain Brant had se- rious reii^ous impressions. He became a steady communicant, frequently acted as interpreter, and promised himself that he would be eminently bene- ficial to his nation, by asBJ«ting to humanize and make then) Christians. There is every reason to believe that he was sincere ; and that, if the w\r kad not forced him into more active scenes, he DTould have been singularly useful. How detestable is waj- — liow dreadful its eflfect« on the temporal and eternal interests of man ; and how earnest ought every good man to be in praying fw the speedy abolttion of this scourge of hinmanity, this ^isgr^kce to Christianity. It is common among the five nations, for young men to select a particuilar friend, who is to share their seci^ets, their prosperity, and, indeed, tq be quite another self. Their notions of this kind of connexion are very romantic, and carried in prac- tice to an in-credible length. Captain Brant had chosen a Lieutenant Prevost, a half-pay officer, in his neighbourhood, to be this particular friend. However, at the commencemeflt I V9TEgi CANADA. 155 of the rebejlixw, Ikuimniit Frev,<wt jiejomed the •rmy.and was ordered tp J^ufw^qa. Jijwepji qften temwted fc.s mh&^xm^e in feeiflg ^s fiep^rAii^ »^ k» Iri^ftd. Dr. .Stuart p^cp wW ^i?) why Oi^t ^Id mt bp, Thp Ppptpf ^n pfipr^ JU^. ftplf a^ * fi^l^i^te ; ^ut Pr^^t S^id f?|P w C^m^ jQhn .« fr^nd i ^y^Qh jci^d of ffift^d9 th^^ ^Jjp. IJftt |?p ji 4»pcpftd i» p?c^e^qe ^ t^e flfV^P^nj.^^ To convince Lieutenant ^r^yp^t^ qf t^p ^lODtipM^^qe pf his attachment, he prpcured a whole suit, or Indian 4r£S8, pf the mo^ .cos.tly f^ur?, ^^d^ent jp to him in iUi^O; After the death of S^ir Wjlh>m Mnson, ^he ma- |?agem£n,t of Jndi^p ^ff^ir^ falling into much le^s ^^le*nd ,e;xperienced hands, it bec'ame'necessary to employ many of those whp had only ^cted ' in subordinate stations under him. The great natural address and ynderstanc^in^ of Mary, Capt. Brunt's sister, with the knowlec^ge of business which she had acquired during Sir William's life, placed her ^id her brother in a prominent situation. The British government employed them both as confi. dential ^ents in settling Indian affairs, and pre- serving the six nations in pur pwn interest, during the American troubles. • Here it may be proper to remark, that, although Captain Brant's name was famous in the American ^va^, on the supposition .that be commanded every K 2 156 A VISIT TO ^ party of Indians with whom he acted ; this was far from bein^ the case. He was not by birth a war chief,' inor was his family remarkable for any pre- eminence in their village -, but, by his uncommon talents, and address, as a counsellor and politician, he was able to subdue all opposkion and jealousy ; and at length acquired such an ascendancy, that, even in the hour of action and danger, he was able to rule and direct his countrymen as absolutely as Ifhehad been born their general. At a very early period of the American war, about 1775, Captain Brant, in company with Co- lonel Guy Johnson, deputy superintendant of In- dian affairs, quitted the Mohawk river, and fixed his common residence at Niagara, except when he was employed in embassies to the distant Indians about Detroit and the Ohio. The cruelties committed by the Indians during the revolutionary war, have been detailed in the most frightful colours by American writers, with- out much regard to truth or consistency, in order to blacken the character of the British, and render it odious among their own people, as well as among foreign nations. During the actual existence of the rebellion, they might consider themselves ex- cused by what they called patriotism, for painting their enemies in the most odious colours j but that European, and especially English writers, should have copied their exaggerated descriptions, or for- UPPER CANADA. 157 borne to notice the real causes of the cruelties com- mitted by the savages, is truly surprising. Were it generally known that the greater part of these un*^ happy people remained neutral for some time after the commencement of hostilities, and that their great crime was, a steady refusal to join the rebels, till they were not merely threatened, but attacked, with fire and sword, their future actions would ap,. pear less aggravated. The Americans, in arms against their sovereign, were as anxious as the friends of the king to have the Indian? on their side; but these poor people resisted, as long as possible, the solicitations of both. After the first and second years of the war, they were driven from their villages by the insurgents their houses burnt, their crops destroyed, their apple trees cut down, and the aged and infirm, who could not escape, murdered or burnt. This foolish policy forced the natives to join the king, and to make incursions into the settled parts of the country, in order to live. There was a post at Niagara, at which they generally resided, after they were forced from their towns and villages, but not a depot of provisions equal to their necessities. The distance of America from Europe, and the general ignorance of the causes and progress of the rebellion, have been of great service to the re- putation of the United States. The war of inde- pendence has been called a revolution, without K 3 i^6f M Vl^iT TO bfaadnhtd ; hitt iki aftsW* frtfttl A ciulpable want of iHfdrHimlon. Thfr situatioh of the )d(ydists, t/t Twie«, s(s thej^ Wdftf c6infertiptaousIy callfed, was t^uly d«»{»!orabre ; they #er*, in rtidst pldCW, itrjp. ped 6f theii" property, driven from their h&mMy irtrtiftirfed ih j^ilsf, or hanged, withoat trial. The nifrirderi, rrtlprisonments, and confiscation^, pei*!. pirated by ih6 fctimmittee of /llbany, equalled and ikr exceeded th^ of the committee of public iiafety in l*af is, ^heh the diflfef ence of population is taketi irtt6 icfcouht. If any loyalists, after being driven ftbm their hotter, Secretly returned to ascertain the fate of their wives and children, many of #hot» perished from cruel treatment, or the evils incident to poverty, they were hunted like vrild beasts by their oppressors, anti branded as assadsinsi and mur- derers ; and if caUght, nb attention was paid to their sufferings, 6t thfe dreadful suspetlse which had dccasioned their journey, but they tt^ere put t<» deatii without niercy. The committee established in the different townships acted with an unanimity and ehergy Worthy tif a better cause. They pr*; hibited salt or provisions frbnl being sold to those stispected of loyalty — they regarded no legal diffi- culties — attetided tb no rights— one thing guided all their decisions, the predominance of their own party— every sort of opposition was to be put down ; and a ffeW brutal men were the judges. Had thfe Tories, as they Werfe called^ acted with the sattie unanimity, had they been protected and cOutt- tetsdttced by thfe Bl-itiSh generals, and encbUlaged HPMHP UPPIR CANADA. 159 to a<Jt with energy in their places of abode and neighbourhood, the rebellion would have be«n Vety toon put down i but they were scorned for their Iryalty \ the cause was laughed at ; thousands re- turned home, and were obliged to join the rebels j and many, after being insulted in the British lines^ became the most formidable foes. No man was suffered to remain neutral ; and, when the alterna^ tive was ruin, or joining the rebels, the decision was, in many oases, most obvi<)us. I, i :, :il It is indeed a matter of deep cotttmis^ ration* e* reflecJt upon the mutual desolation produced by this annatufdl war. Not only men and warriors, but the Women and children of whole settlement*, were involved in complete ruin ; nor cart there be any justification offered on either side. It Is only when the American writers conceal the shocking conduct of their own people, and endeavour to throw the whole odium on the British and Indians, that it becomes necessary to point out the truth J and to shew that the cruelties exercised upon the Indians and loyalists were greater thafi it was ift the power of the latter to inflict upon the insut- gents. To do this appears now more necessary thaii ever, when the best poet of the age has embalmed, in imperishable verse, the cruelties of his country, men, united with the savages. In this beautiful poem, < Gertrude of Wyoming,* for beautiful and K 4 V'lJ 160 A VISIT T0 rj ^ i sweet it is, notwithstanding the unfortunate choice of the story, every thing that is tender, affectionatt, and lovely, is attached to the rebels, and all the opposite vices given to their enemies. The re- viewer, instead of correcting the visions of the poet, and stating the situation of Wyoming as it really was, describes that township (a large district he ought to have said) ' as a situation which, at the commencement of the American rebellion, might have passed for an earthly paradise. The beauty and fertility of the country, the simple and unlaborious plenty which reigned among the scat- tered inhabitants, but, above all, the singular pu- rity and innocence of their manners, and the tran- quil and unenvious equality in which they passed their days, form altogether a scene on which the eye of philanthropy is never wearied with gazing, and to which, perhaps, no parallel can be found in the annals of the fallen world. The heart turns with delight from the feverish scenes of European history to the sweet repose of this true Atalantis; but sinks to reflect, that, though its reality may still be attested by surviving witnesses, no such spot is now left on the whole face of the earth, as a refuge from corruntion and misery.* Who could sup- pose that tnis splendid description of an earthly paradise, sunk into the following facts, when touched by the hand of history, even partial his- tory ! * Wyoming consisted of eight townships, each five miles square, beautifully placed on each side of the river ISusquehannah. It had increased vh^mm mmm UPPER CANADA. 161 80 rapidly in population, that 1000 men were sent to serve in the continental army. Four forts were constructed to cover the remainder from the irrup- tions of the Indians. But it was their unhappiness to have a considerable number of loyalists among them -y and the twc parties were actuated by senti- ments of the most violent animosity, which was not confined to particular families or places, but, creep- ing wirhin the roofs and to the hearths anu floors where it was least to be expected, served equally to poison the sources of domestic security and hap- piness, and to cancel the laws of ature and huma- nity.* Dr. Ramsay mentions that, at one time, the rebels sent twenty-seven loyalists to Hartford, in Connecticut, ♦ to be tried for their lives ;* says Dr. Gordon, * and many others were driven from the settlement.' These measures excited the rage of the Tories (i. e. loyalists) to the most extreme degree ; and the threats formerly denounced against the settlers were now renewed with aggra- vated vengeance. The soil of the district of Wyoming, according to Dr. Ramsay, was claimed both by (.Connecticut and Pennyslvania ; and from the collision of contradictory claims, the laws of neither were steadily enforced ; so that this spot, so happy, &c. was more contaminated with rancour and animosity, than any other part of the United States ; and, instead of being pure and innocent, &c. the inhabitants were lawless and cruel, and op- pressive to the weaker party. It is not either for the purpose of defending or excusing the dreadful Ids A VISIT TO ^ attack made upoii this settlement, that th6se parti- culars are mentioned* but to shew that, as the in* habitants had engaged most actively in the support of rebellion, and as they had purged themselves, aa they termed it, of all the loyalists* in the most violent and cruel manner, they could not reasonably ex- pect to be exempted from the horrors of civil war. This digression is not foreign to Captain Brant's memoir ; for he was said to be of the expedition, and one of the principal authors of the cruelties committed. It is expected that, in a new edition of his beautiful poem, Mr. Campbell will adhere to historical truth in relating the story ; and indeed, by wayof atonement* he ought to select a subject more honourable to the British character, on which to dia- play his exquisite poetical talents ; for, though a pott has an undoubted right to choose hi^ subject, yet I should like to see so much patriotism prevail, as to select, at least, a story that shall not disgrace out native land ; and if it could be so ordered as to ex- ^It our national character, at the same time that it 4id justice to foreign nations* so much the betted Captain Brant was present with the Indians on many trying occasions, and no doubt adopted their mod6 of warfene; but it should be universally known, that no money or reward was ever given fbr scalps, but far prisoners only^ To proceed from this digression. Captain Brant was more distinguished for his civil than his mili- tary qualifications. Several Indians w«re war ohitfs 1,1 UPfBK CANADA. 169 by birth, *fid dimmed ft sup^ti^ity in the field, to Which GaptAifi BtAtit trag- ofWig«d to sabtnit •, sitiA in «rt h^m& ^na^riiom ha authority was ifldlrett, artd flow^*d rath*!' from the tesp^ti entettaJrted for bis political talents, thart that he hid a right to cOttitttarfd in ^ar— a right v«>hich wa& h^Vtt acknow- ledged by the Indiatis. ^ At niy flr^t intert^ieW with hi'rtt/ says the Rev. Dr. Stuart, * at Niagara, in ItS*, I found hiol much changed in his manners and principles. In his fim journey to England, he had been greatly caressed—iritroduded by the tiiilitafy officers, whtf had served iL Aiiierica, into all companies— flatter- ed by the ministers— arid gratified in all his caprices and desii-es ; it was ho wonder that he was greatly changed. In two respects especially this was the case ; in his religious principles, and in his reve- rence for the king. He, who had been very early impressed with the deepest reverence for religion, who had never heard its truth called in question, now found it ridiculed and condemned by persons whose weight and consideration in society gave a sort of sanction to their opinions. He found him- self engrossed with novelties, every hour his vanity puffed up, his appetites and passions gratified ; and he began to look with contempt on his former as- sociates ; and to think that even his friend. Dn Stuart, was deceived, or a deceiver. His own ex- perience might have convinced him of the conso- lations of religion, when bereaved of his wife, and 164 A VISIT TO '? 1 busy assisting in translating the sacred volume. At that time he felt its power, and reaped from it the purest consolation. It was most criminal in those who caressed and flattered this miserable man, to de- prive him of the only restraint on his savage fero- city. There were times when he felt the injury that had thus been done him, and when he acknow- ledged, with tears, that many of his faults sprang from the doubts that had been raised in his mind respecting the truths of Christianity. This voyage to England was no less pernicious to his political, than to his religious principles.— Taught on the Mohawk river, while young, never to mention or hear the king's name mentioned without the greatest reverence, he was much asto- nished to find, on his arrival in England, the mea- sures of government arraigned, the king abused, and his servants vilified ; to see the Administration changing hands every month or two, and the whole country a scene of confusion ; the House of Commons voting resolutions, which were disregard- ed by the Crown ; and the utmost licentiousness of speech used by both parties, in defence of their favourite opinions. He who had considered it a crime of the deepest cast to think ill, much less to speak disrespectfully of the king, found his scruples laughed at, and the utmost freedom of remark in- dulged. In fine, he heard many things which had a tendency to weaken the hold which the prin- ciples of the Christian religion had taken of him ; t-i . UPPER CANADA. 165 and also the free opinions which were given, in his presence, of the king and his ministers, had, by degrees, such an effect as to induce him to enter- tain a mean opinion of the government. Induced by wicked example, he began after this period to speak very freely of people in power ; and, of course, to entertain a very high opinion of his own talents and importance, as the auxiliary of our go- vernment, and as the primum mobile of Indian po- litics. And he really persuaded himself, at length, that he had it in his power to render the Indian na- tions, when properly linked together by treaties and leagues, independent of us ; at the head of which confederacy, he had no doubt but he could place himself. * ; ' '> ■ . > ' y At the end of the American war, he found him- self in a more important situation than ever. The British and Americans, as he conceived, stood ready to out-bid each other for his friendship and influence ; both looking upon him as the only per- son that could turn the scale. Puffed up with his own importance, he frequently discovered a want of gratitude to the British government. But, in truth, he had been so greatly flattered and indulged, that it is rather wonderful that he behaved no worse. • At the reduction, he obtained a very large and va- luable tract of land for the five nations, who had act- ed as our allies during the war, and had consequently # 1^ A VISIT T© 'i ?) V. m f I i«ft their Americao possessions. This hnd wm given, as k then aeeraed, at » great distance from Niagara, the neareRt settJcnieBt, so as not to inter- fere with its pr,€)grc86 J but so lafwdfy im the pno- vince fiilled with inhabitants, that it has been long since «urround«d by the white population. Cap*. Brant saw much «oon«r than tfaie governwejit the value of this tract of land, and determined to make it the subject of lucrative speculation, by leasing or sdling it to white people. This disposition of the lands not having been foreseen, or not mti- ciewtly guarded against, in maikiiig (the gmnt, pj-oy- ed the fruitful spurce of disagreemefit between him and the colonial government. These cooteatioofi, however, were not sufficient to empioy so readers a mind. He saw the Indians sinking into insigni- ficance, and bis owsn influence daily ^oii#ig Jess, as there was nothing to cail forth hk italeats eiirh*r in the village or in the field. Having ^oo ^^h ieisurc, and his views oi advaficemeuit becpmi^g less «ind less probable, he begao to indulge i» is^- rituous liquors. This eitposed Urn t& the Jiatli«d of his enemies among 'bis coMaitrywien, m^ gave them a handle agaimat liira, which they fenew well how to employ : indeed he became eaHous, md fit length, drank to exceos. £b a short tiaae ihe \n^t his popularity, not only with the Indians at J*rge, but even with the Mohawks in the village which they er^ted at Oswego, on theCtewid Eiver. UPPER CANADA. 167 The IdM of hia infjuenc* among hig own tfib« gave rise to a niort deplorable event, which em- bittered the eve«ing of his nfe. His eldest son, who lived in the village of Oswego, on the Oraiki River, instead of being his friend, was his most stremioue opposer. He inflaifled the Indians agaiii»t fcis father, and was Tcontinually undermining hts Influence. • I knew the young roan,' said Dr. Stuart : « he was tiie son of Captain Brant's first wife. No pains m expense were spared in his edu- cation. But he seemed to be of a suljen, jporose, savage dispos.don. When ho returned from Mon- treal, where he was educated, he came up with me. 1 remember well that he avoided all society and in- tercourse with the white people at whose houses we happened to stop ; and after he went to his fa- ther, at the Grand River, be was remarked for « ferocious and unfriendly temper, sometimes mali- ciously and wantonly shooting horses belonging to white people ; and, when intoxicated, which often happened, endangering the lives of persons also.* This young man connected himself, at length, with the faction in the village that opposed his father in political measures ; and to so great a pitch had his animosity arisen, that he frequently declared he would kill him. Being in his father's house one day, a conversation took place on the subject of their differences. The son attempted to stab the father with a pen-knife, but Captain Brant parried the blows } and, having always a great variety of 168 A VISIT TO arms in his room, in a paroxysm of passion, snatch- ed down a pistol, and struck the son with it on his head, (but not, as he frequently declared, with a design to kill him,) by which he wounded him badly. Much blood issued from the wound ; the blood was stopped, and the young man went home to his own house. But continuing to drink and act in a riotous manner, the blood burst out again from the wound. He refused to have it bound up a second time, and bled to death. This is the best account I can give you of that fatal and unnatural accident. ;l Soon after this dreadful event. Captain Brant re- moved from the village, and lived upon a tract of land given him at the head of Lake Ontario, where he built a very excellent twostory wooden house. His habit of drinking, however, increased, and hastened his death, which happened in 1810, at the advanced age of 70 years. QUEST. XI. iJM: "i!-C I K UPPER CANADA. 169 n '..'.. . ■• I 'if QUEST. XI. ' i - * i t i Hon is Justice administered ? , . . . v One of the first acts of the legislature, after the division of the province, was, to introduce the law of England as the rule of decision, as well as the rule of evidence. This act has been modified, ex- plained, and altered, by particular laws, as suited the condition of the province. The superior court, which takes cognizance of all matters of importance, both civil and criminal, con. sists of three judges—the chief justice, and two puisne judges. The chief justice has L. 1 100 ster- ling a-year, and the other two L.750, besides an allowance of L. 100 each, to defray their expences on the circuit. The judges are independent of the executive government. Besides the superior court, there is a district court, consisting of one judge, who determines all causes of debt to the amount of L.40, and trespasses to L. 15. In this court the presiding judge is seldom a lawyer, and consequently the jurisdiction of the ito A V|HT TO court is confined ; but in the collection of small debts it is ^'-•Mi'i very beneficial. The quarter sessions, and the duty of magistrates and justices of the quorum, are much the same as in England. There are two crown officers, the attorney and solicitor-general, who conduct alk mattMS for the king. The gfeateifc impftitialiiy pefvades »ll the ewft*. There is w> iaterference oxh the pwt of tM gdvera^ inent. The true iater«st9 of the rulers, ^ft w^U m of «he people, are known. to> 4epeii£| upon |he ikHkUU tered operations of tibe \»Yi%, T^ ju^^ ao4 crown officers are men of acknowledged ability, se- liseted from m hai)Qarabl« and Uber^^ pfo^ession, and raised fey their educatioii %bov« sordid and iiai?«ow views, < Wl»ei% w« beMd (says 9^ wiiter ifh Canada) ihas© upright disp«n8ci?8i of j ustic^, wittwu^ any temptation to the ri^t o? to, the l«ft» pjfeparc^ by a long oouise of study for thew ^wful and im* pctftaot 5unotiQB% heayiag, witih the gr^tost pa^r dour, and most invincible patie«e!e> not nvere^. ^ causes between different subjects, but those between private citizens and their sovereign j m^% instead of^ bending to the iHilera who appoint thew^ giving every proper facUity to the prisoneir, attending patr-^ ticularly to his defence, and ev«n beconui^ hm ceuniel, if he erre ,* i& there any pefson who i» no^ •vw UPMR CANA1>A. in consciouB that he fs complete^ master of Ms owii conduct? that the quiet possession of hij Hfe, his pctsou and property , and good name, are secured to hfm by the laws ? Do we not fee! that our go. vemment is abte, and not only able, but careful, to protect the rights of every individuaJ, and to aliow him as much liberty as is compatible with the rights of hi« fellow subjects ; protecting him agamst all oppression, givmgfree scope for the exertion of his talents, and in every way contributmg to his comfort and happiness. MISCELLANEOUS. In this country great capitals might be invested in land, and in a few years give a certain and great profit. In the United States this has been done to a great extent, and is still proceeded in with the nwSt beneficial results ; but in Upper Canada very few attempts have been made of forming settlements by individuals on a great scale, owing to the want of large capitalists, and likewise to the practice of go- vernment giving grants of land gratis to every re- spectable settler coming into the province. Now, that these grants are becoming more limited in ex- tent, and lie further back, speculations in land will become more frecj^uent. L 2 Hi I 17« A VISIT TO fll People disposed to invest their money in this way, can expect no return (or five or six years, but they will get this time to pay the greater part of the purchase ; one-fburth down, and the remainder in instalments, with interest till paid: which instal- ments may be once a-year, and sometimes once in two years, so as to give time for returns. To il- lustrate a speculation of this kind, we shall suppose a township to be sold by government for some cha- ritable or beneficial purpose ; for example, the land to be given for improving the St. Lawrence, or one of the townships set apart for the support of a Uni- versity. The latter will serve for illustration. A township contains about 66,000 acres, 2.7ths of which, or nearly 19,000 acres, are reserved for the crown and clergy. The quantity to be purchased is 45,000 acres, at three dollars per acre, L.33,750, Halifax currency, or L.SO,375 sterling; one-fourth down, or L.7593, 15s. sterling, leaving L.22,781, 5s. bearing interest at 6 per cent, till paid ; for it is not probable that there would be any difficulty in leaving the three-fourths in the hands of the pur- chaser as long as he chose. In order to have the complete command of the township, the purchaser should lease all the reserves, which are 95 in num- ber, at 7 dollars each per annum, for the first seven years, which will add L.150 sterl. per annum to his actual cost. Hence the township stands the pur- chaser, from the moment of full possession, about L.2000 sterling per annum. The first thing to be dene is to open two roads, at right angles, through I- UPPER CANADA. irs the township, by vA.'-h it is divided into four equal parts; n.u to bjild a saw-mill, for the con- venience of the :nh» litants. All this may be done for L.eooo stciiT but we shall suppose, that, together with preparation for a grist mill, when re- quired, the a.«o 'lal capital required will be L. 10,000. The lots of land on these roads will immediately sell at from eight to ten dollars per acre ; we shall suppose only eight dollars per acre j and we have in a short time nearly the whole purchase money replaced, and three-fourths of the township still in the hands of the proprietor. Sup- pose these roads, having lots on each side of them, open a ready communication to one-fourth, or 16,000 acres, 4000 of which are reserves, avoiding fractional parts J leaving 12,000 acres for sale, at eight dollars per acre — ^giving time on paying a small instalment: L.24,000 Halifax currency, or L.2 1,600 sterling ; and the twenty reserves will easily let at the government rent, and L.IO Halifax, per annum, or L.9 sterling, each additional. We shall suppose that four years are consumed before all these arrangements are completed ; and certain- ly this gives abundant time. The account current of the township would be as follows : Cash paid or secured to govern- ment, - . L.30,375 Interest on ditto for four years, at 6 per cent. - 7,380 Carried over, L.37,755 i 1 j i I /' a i L 3 174 A VISIT TO Brought forward, L.S7,755 Cash paid for improvetncnts* 10»000 Interest oq ditto for three years, at 6 per cent. . 1,800 Bents on 95 reserves, four years, 600 Capital actually laid out at the end of four years. By lands sold, 12,000 acres, at 8 dollars per acre, in sterling, L.21,600 By lands in the hands of the pro* prietor, vhich we shall value at 6 dollars only, a low price after such improvements j for, if the capitalist had the means of living without forcing sales, they will average 10 dollars per acre. The quantity in his hands 33,000 acres, at 6 dol- lars, . , 44,500 L.50,155 L.66,100 Profit on the speculation at the end of four years. L. 15,945 There are other items to be considered : suppose the proprietor not forced to sell, and tliat he rather wishes to leave his money at the end of four years invested, amounting to L.28,555, the difference of the lands sold, and the whole capital laid out at Ui^*Elt tkVADA, lt5 this peHod. Tlii^ at 8 p^T tifeftt. ifiteitiit, L.lYls, <^s. J add th^reftt fot rtifei^ves, L.l^bc--L.l88d, U^. ; but there Wtre twenty resfervtesi ihtel-mihgled With the l2,tW0 tttelSi Whifch Ivfe suppose Sbid, uJiOn Which a pfoUt bF L.9 p^i* aflfitith Wds bbtSitlfed, br L.lid. Take this frbrft L.i8d9, 6s. leaves L.le«s, ejj. fbt the aetual paytnfehl. But thiil tha^ be fat-- thbr lessened, as a rtiati bf this pr^^tiy tdUld easily get ttibuey at S pfef teUt. by Which the atiHUal id- tef^t i<rbuia bfe reduted tb L.i^dt, lis. Let Us suppose that the eapitalist art JJay this adtttialfy for ten years, at which ti ~ie his laftds f etoaitiihg are ten dollars per acre, and his leases yield a yearly ptQfii df L.io fcath. The eapftal invested at thd end of 4 years, as abt^e IrMJSS d The afiijual suni, L.ldsr?, 1^. Wtilclphed by 16 i$,9l1 15 The sum actually invested at the end of 10 years - . L.42,532 10 By *5,06b acrts, at W da}\m p^ afcr§, i^sfefliBfg - ^ f§ii^§ Leaves a profit of - h:§&,S&^ iO it f* ftfsd to bd f€rcidi/keld, that j< ^fdif^lt 6f Li750 x^mxid accr'tfe arWti^lIy on the feasW, wfifdff ^dtifd be ecjtiaf to al: least L. 16,660 ftidr* j^cSfit, dr iSJake tire wfrofe eqttsf! to L.-^,oo&. L 4 U 176 iiii A VISIT TO An exact calculator may remark, that we have not exacted compound interest for the money in- vested, which, injustice, ought to be the case j but the business is always proceeding, and certain pro- fits on sales and leases accrue, which will be fully an equivalent. One item of expense we have omit- ted, the time and labour of some person to superin- tend the improvements, make the sales, &c. ; but the advantages arising from mill seats, and laying out one or two villages, where 50 or 100 dollars will be given for a single acre, would be sufficient to meet this expense. The prices which we have said would be received for the lands are very low, when compared with the prices of lands in the United States. In Kentucky, wild lands fetch forty and fifty dollars per acre, and that will be the case in Canada in twenty years. Were government to stop giving gratuitous grants to-morrow, lands would rise in six months 200 per cent. fk i^ It is proper to observe, that the lots, in order to make the best of them, must be sold generally on credit to actual settlers ; a small sum down, the rest by instalments, with interest. The settlers have generally very little when they commence, and expect to make their payments from the produce of their lands ; and which they 'vill very easily accomplish, if industrious, and •^^^MriMiHM *i-'^rar^--."!!:»fT nsv-^ ^f : "-W'. ° UPPER CAKADA. 177 blessed with health. Many persons pay for and clear their farms from the ashes of the wood alone, which they manufacture into pot-ash ; others make it out of the first few crops ; and every man may make his payments in a very few years, were he to pay even twenty dollars per acre for his land. The profits, therefore, which we have calculated, instead of being high, will be doubled by persons of enter- prize and arrangement superintending the settle- ment in person. The stj^te of agriculture in the province is capable of many improvements, and a spirit of improvement has gone forth. Agricultural societies are forming in each district, for the purpose of procuring good models of all the different instruments used in hus- bandry J for introducing more approved modes of tillage ; for getting the best seeds of every descrip- tion, and the most approved breeds of cattle. From the great indifference that prevails at present re- specting grasses, the pastures are in many places poor, even on the best lands ; but, were more at- tention paid to laying down ground, I am persuad- ed that grazing farms would be extremely profita- ble. To fatten cattle, for the Montreal and Que- bec markets, would be a most advantageous thing ; for there is n* doubt that the superior conveniences enjoyed by the /irmer of Upper Canada would enable him to undersell those in Lower Canada, or, ataUe,;'ts, to make a very reasonable profit on the cauiw that he brought to market. * 178 A Visit 1*0 She^, on an extensive scale, will ndt be fbund profitable, on account of the escellence of the land ; it h too good for this sort of culture. Grain, and even pasture for black cattle, is a much more advantageous method of farming. Every farmer^ however, finds it profitable to have a few sheep, not only to afford him wool fbr clothing to his family, but likewise to sell a few fbr slaughter, by which he procures a little ready money to pay hia hands in hay time and harvest. l«' ^ L A B O tr H. The price of labour has been considered ft great drawback upon the country, but 1 am rather Of opinion that it is much in its favour ; for, labour cannot be dear, where the master is not able to pay for it. If a farmer is not able, from the produce of his farm, to give fourteen dollars per month for a servant to work <m his lands, he must lower it j but people are hired at these wages, and even at eigh- teen and twenty dollars, if on superior lands. Now, it is evident that the farmer is able to pay this, ami yet grow rich, or wages would fall. The day-labourers! get from 3s. 9d. to one dollar per day ; a carpenter, owe Mht and one qumer, orSts, 3d pefT day. and his board ; a mason, twoddf. lars per day, and board. Ilrere may, at timed, be UPPER CAKADA. 179 aHttle variatioiH owing to the great or smalt influx of e«iigiantii» but the dii&renceis liardiy worth no- tice. , , , i,r The farirer seiis only what he cannot consume. He tr i!. gat roast beef alnaost every day, without incom ^:.ience j and indeed he generally eats some- thing as good. This produces a very improper and wasteful profusion. They will not eat the sheep's head, nor the bullock's, except the tongue f the lungs, liver, &c. are usually thrown away. ROADS. It seemed desirable to have one good road, from oiie end of the province to the other, and great exertions have been made to accomplish it; but the legislature has not as yet been able to give suf* ficient aid for completing it, and most of the statute labour has been laid out on the cross roads. A law which has lately passed will operate favourably in this respect, as it taxes all lands, and provides, that the monies so raised shall be laid out in the town- ship where the lands are situated. In winter, for several months, all roads are good f and in summer they are not yet much travelled, especially since the introduction of steam-boats, which renders journey- ing by water so easy and expeditious. There are, It' i-\ 180 A VISIT TO however, several tolerably good roads in the pro- vince, though a good road in this country is very different from a good road in England. fH TYTHES. No tythes are collected, nor ?ire they or any other aid from the people necessary to the regular esta- blishment of the church ; for one-seventh of the whole lands of the province is set apart by the king to support a protestant clergy, which, though not yet sufficiently productive, will, in time, become so. Some persons, who cannot bear religion under any form, and others, who envy establishments, have said, that the appropriation was too much, and that It impeded the settlement; but I apprehend that these remarks are incorrect. The quantity of land IS not so much as the tythe in England ; and as to impeding settlements, the reverse is actually the truih ; for the clergy reserves are, in most instances, preferable to a grant of one hundred acres : con- sisting always of two hundred, a settler, who has got his grant adjacent, may, at an expense of seven dollars per annum, have a farm of three hundred acres. In the old settlements, reserves are now sought after with great avidity. UPPER CANADA. 181 GAME LAWS Are unknown in this country. Deer are nume- rous in the woods, and you may shoot every one you meet. Venison, in some parts of the province, especially Kingston, is abundant in its season. The deer are commonly traced in the snow, and when it is deep and soft, it is easy to kill them ; or when the frost has made a crust which does not bear them. At other times, they are chased by dogs, and driven into the water, where they are easily come up to by boats, and killed. Bears and wolves are not so numerous as they were, though many are still killed every year. Foxes continue in great numbers ; and, as in Eu- rope, are frequent and great robbers of hen roosts. Pheasants are in plenty, but of a smaller size than those in England. Partridges are scarce. Pigeons, of a great variety of species, visit the country ; they are seen in spring and autumn in flocks that darken the atmosphere. Ducks and teal are abun- dant ; and woodcocks are numerous. Hunting, shooting, and fishing, are free to all. FISH. 5-#': I8S A VISIT lO ill FISH. The lakes and rivers abound in excellent li«h. Black bass, white fish, Masqii€nong«, herrings, tal- mon. pickerel, pike, eels, &c. &c. are caught in th« gteateat ciuantities ; insomuch, that so high up as Detroit, a thousand miles from the sea, many thou* sand barrels offish have been caught in one season^ cured; and exported into the interior, commanding, with ease, eiglit and ten doUars per barreK DISEASES. In point of he«hh, he most be very fb^iiff^s who does not give his most unqualified approba- tion of the cKmate of this country. Aft who are not pttrticttlAriy. and we may add culpaHy, expos- ed, Will admit, that, for salubrity, as Well as plea- *we, iio Country is superior to this. The province h«s» fnd^eed, got a reputation for fevers aftd agues but with much the same truth as H has for its sa' vageness and coW. In a warm season, the working people, labouring in the sun, may frequently over- heat themselves, and drink profusely of water, per- haps stagnant water, by which diseases are engen- defedj and such diseases would flow from the same causes in any country. UPPtll CANADA. 185 At Cincinnati, and in the state of Illinois, many diseases prevail, scarcely known in this province. The croup annually carries off a number of chil- dren, a distemper hardly ever seen in Upper Ca- nada. H©mitti«g and int«rnnittlng ftveri^ includ- ing ague, are seldom met with here, but are fre- quent where Mr. Birkbeek has formed his settle- ment. Indeed the bilious and typhus fevers, to wWch h« is imUe^ and which, m iimi country, few <|8C8p«» ar# enough ta induce hie frieads to temm ia £i^lao4, and to pausQ long before tlwy imii»t«i bi* IWfpoftfcefoua eiioiee. Tbere is no disease* tb«l wn be s«iu to be pwiMliaf to this country ^ even the ague, which used to be associated at %n timm with the name of the province, is now of rare occur- T^cek, except vbeu brought on by ieiprwdeHc©.-- Tl^efo are few cowHktries, if *ny, on ea«th» (OiQtFe s4iiib<tow tltoo. Upper Canada. W i! >> I I -J TRAN. •. / '■'.)> ; 'fin? 184 A VISIT TO }i I \ Mi ( n , 1 , ^H TRANQUILLITY op UPPER CANADA^ >vf :■■ I Before I went out, I was deceived as to the state of the province ; and, supposing from whot I saw in some of the papers, that the country was nearly in a state of insurrection, one of my reasons for going out was, to offer my brother an asylum, in case of danger. But when I came into the province, I found all tranquil ; and that the people had at length seen through the criminal views of the half insane, but mischievous Robert Gourlay. This man is the son of a most respectable, and once very opulent, farmer in Fifeshire ; but such was his turbulent and diso- bedient conduct, that he was turned out of his fa- ther's house. A short time after, Mr. Robert Gourlay printed a letter, addressed to Lord Kelly, full of the most shameful falsehoods and calumnies against his Lord- ship and the other freeholders of Fife. His poor father, it is said, tried to collect all the copies ; but such was his son's talents for doing mischief; that he scattered ten fire-brands for one that could UPPER CANADA. bo restrained. Mr. Gourlay then went to Kng- lanil, i'or he durst not remain in Scotland, and took a farm» in Wilts, belonging to the Duke of Somer- set. As he seldom paid rent, and his father having refused to supply him, he got rapidly into debt.— This produced difficulties between him and his landlord, and a suit in Chancery. During this pe riod, lie was the friend and correspondent of Cob- bett and Hunt ; and having become a member of the Bath Society Ibr Agriculture and other pur- poses, he printed a most infamous attack upon the members. Whr^ called upon to answer for this outrage, he said that he did not mean any of the individuals, but the persons employed in doing the business of the society. He was then asked to make an apology as public as the foul calumny which he had promidgated j and, on his refusal, ho was expelled with disgrace, • '"■'•*♦■; - ' >- .< . i. I ii >■ ? 1 . , . , .. . Finding his affairs daily getting worse, he came to Canada, leaving, as a legacy, two tracts on the poor laws, so inflammatory, that he durst not print them while in England, for the purpose of borrow- ing money from one of his friends, the Hon. Tho- mas Clarke, a gentlenian belonging to the Legisla- tive Council of this province. Mr. Clarke intro- duced him to the Hon. William Dickson, another Legislative Councillor. These gentlemen, finding him unfortunate, and not willing to risque their money with a man, who had taken so little care of his own, to get clear of his requests, recommended IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // :a #A^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 ^ m us 140 IM 2.0 i:4_ mil 1.6 Pnotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (7)6) 672-4503 iV «v L1>' 'V^ ^'^i>^^^i^ % ^^ o /^ *^ 1^ IBS A VISIT TO him to Colonel Smith, then administering the go- irernment of Upper Canada. The Colouel, not knowing the man, treated him kindly, and ^rfTered to do any thing for him in reason, on the strength of his recommendations. But this gentleman did not choose to tak« the oath of allegiance* which must always be taken and filed, before any land can be granted. He had other views 5 md, in cftse they should not succeed, he had ati asyiom in th« American States. The president, it is said, was placed 80 far off his guard, by the represctitations of the two gentlemen in favour of Go«rlay, who stood 90 high in the province, that he was going to pa* trooize him cordially, had betaken the o*th* ; .uf. .ti;<-u» Bat Mr. Oourlay isoon threw off the mask. The plan which he adopted to «e<;yre«n influence in the province was singularly artfd. He pretended that he was anxious to draw up a topographical account of Upper Canada ; and, for this purpose, be pub- lished a long address t?0 the resident iandhoklers, which he got intserted in the Pnovincial Gazette.*^ The inflammatory iwiture of this paper, and the dangerous mode of proceeding which it suggested, were not perceived by the president of the pro- vince, or by any of his counsellors, except one -of tbem, who highly disapproved of Mr. Gouriay's paper, and of its being published in a journal, which gave it a sort of official authority, Miost pec^ approved of such an account of th« country 6s was sugge8rt;ed j and, in their eag^rn^ss to promote its UPPt-R CANADA. 187 execution, ov^rtbokec! the intemperance of the projector. • : < . ^ . -< , ■h! run '^^■'■ir/'}li^^'j.,-^iil A ^Lnv-y^-it) In tiiTis pajjer, 'Mf. feoiirfey ff«maiidea ansW^rs to certain queries, not from respectable individuals, but from the freeholders of each township, who -were to assemble on a given day for that express purpose. The impudence of a stranger cafKng public meetings would have, hi an old country, strack every man, and no such meetings would have been held ; but in Upper Canada, where there is little information of this sort among the inhabi- tants, and where most of them were desirous of pro- moting such a work, no difficulties were started.—. Meetings were very generally held, and answers sent him from a great number of townships. Mr. Goarlay, having thus interested a great proportion of the province in his favour, published a secbnd address, still more inflammatory than the fir^tj in- deed so much so, that many of the respectable part of the community, who had been friendly to fns llrst publication, did not hesitate to pronolittce him an incendiary. Finding that his views b^gantd be discovered, he traduced all who did not adhere to him, in the most shameful manner, filling his co- lutitins with the 'giossest falsehoods and calumnies that his imaginatii^rt codid suggest. By degrees, he opened his plan more and more, and at length dropped his statistical account altogether, and pro- posed that a commission should be appointed by the freeholders of the province, to proceed to Lotjdon, M 2 w 188 A VISIT TO and petition his Royal Highness the Prince Regent for the redress of certain grievances which they had discovered. These grievances may be reduced to two. 1st, The payment of losses sustained by in- dividuals during the war. 2d, Lands to be given to the militia for their services. Now, both these had been tor some time under the consideration of the ministry. As to the first, there were many difficul- ties in the way. The state of the finance was such as to make it delicate to make new demands upon the treasury ; and the people of Upper Canada lost nothing by the war, compared to their fellow sub- jects in Great Britain, The second had been grant- ed before it was a grievance ; and no doubt some- thing will be done witli the first so soon as it can be done with propriety. Subscriptions were en- tered into at all townsliip meetings, which now be- came frequent, to pay the expense of the proposed commission. Ten thousand dollars were thought requisite j and of this the people of the district of Niagara gave about nine hundred. It was in this district that Mr. Gourlay found his principal sup- port, a circumstance against which former expe- rience should at least have guarded them. <)■ .; There are only three papers published in the pro- vince, the Gazette and two Journals, one at Nia- gara and one at Kingston, all of which Mr. Gour- lay may be said to have commanded ; for the Ga- zette published his first address ; and though none of bi,8 other papers were ioserted, yet it religiously lii ■■'"r"^^^-Vij'^f^'Y^g|ft^f ■ UPPEE CANADA. 189 abstained from giving any opinion against him. The Niagara Spectator was completely in his power ; and every th'ng which he inserted was carefully co- pied into the Kingston Gazette. Having, therefore, the ccitroul of the press, he acquired a degree of influence, and spread his opinions in such a manner as to render him extremely dangerous. Follow- ing the example of his Spa-fields friends, from Whose company he had just escaped when he came to Canada, he endeavoured to destroy the charac- ter of every respectable gentleman of high standing in the province who did not think that a milk and water conduct v;as admissible, but publicly opposed him. He hoped to destroy their influence, by tra- ducing them ; but in this he was mista.ien. His zeal outstripped his prudence: the people could read the falsehoods which he published against them, and knowing them to be such, they began to question his integrity. This was more particularly manifested in the eastern district. In order to get the commission sent home, Mr. Gourlay under- took to go through the province, and hold town meetings in person, at which money should be rais- ed, and the opinion of the meeting taken on a draught of a petition to his Royal Highness the Prince Regent, which had been published in the two papers, and circulated in hand-bills; and more- over, to choose a delegate in convention, to meet at York, on the 6th of July, 1818. This conven- tion was to choose the gentlemen to compose the commission, give the final polish to the petition, M 3 t~>'C:dMfkK<' 190 ^ VISIT TO and geaerally to tftk« into coosiderfttioD the state of tbe province ^ in fij^ie, to asfium^ the powers of t)ie legislature; and it reminded, by its proceed- ingSi all well informed, of the horrors of a rcvolu- liom Thus fai* every thing )}ad proceeded accordf> ing to his wishes. The government took no notice of biiu. He expected to direct the convention, to be the principal commiseiooer, if it was necessary to go bome»; or to overtuimt the governmentt and beooioe president. At several town meetings which he oail«d tof ^tihei:, he procured all he wanted -p but wlien he came into tl>e eastern district* the good sense of the people began to rally. His pamphlets were puUicLy burnt by the militia of Storniont and Gi^nville, on the king's birth^day j and a, disposi- tion so hostile to him and his views manifested, that be durst not vcmture to call meetings of the people. In the Johnston district, he was opposed at his meetings by all the respectable part of tlie com- munity; afld bis inflammatory language refuted, and his views exposed. Ho left most of these town- ships discomfitted and disgraced. In the midland district he experienced less public opposition } bu the greater number of the freeholders, who had joined him merely on account oi his proposed sta- tistical hoqk, now forsook Mm. In the district of Newcastle, he was ably refuted, and his falsehood and seditious character so clearfy set forth, that he decamped in confusion. In the western part of the province he made little or no progress. Neverthe- less, on the 6th of July, a convention, consisting of t. i UPPSR 04VAPA. 191 certain discontented characters, assembled at York, chose their president, secretary. &«. tod spent five or six days debating and amending the petition to the Prince Rej^ent ; but after it was prepared, there was no money-— the nine hundred dollars collected had been spent by Mr, Gourlay in his seditious missis through the province, and ten tliousand were necessary. This put Utem to a nonpius.***- At length, it was resolved to postpone the commis- sion, and to apply to his Grace the Duke of Rich- mond, and to Sir Peregrine Maitland, who were daily expected, for the redrcsa of their grievances ; at the same time appointing another meeting of tlie convention during the next sitting of parlia- ment^ to overawe its proceedings. ■ Mr. Oourlay's conduct in passing through the country, calling meetings, and the language which he used in addressing the people, together with the reports of such assemblies published in the news- papers,, were of a nature so seditious, and struck so completely at the root of all civil government, that the Attorney-Gencral caused him to be arrested in Kingston, to lake his trial for seditiaas practices; He was acquitted against the clearest evidence ; and, although it gave him a temporary triumph, it has been of us»^ not only in giving him an oppor- tunity of shewing more clearly the baseness of his character, but the purity with which tin^ l«ws gfe admiairtered* * iwj. I .'0 ■.;> -i-iN-ff;.. . , ..u*-. wmmm 19^ A VISIT TO After SirP.Maitland assumed the government, the same inattention to this man's proceedings was not continued, as his publications appearing without con- tradiction, the province seemed to people at a dis- tance in a state of insurrection. The American edi- tors were astonished at the forbearance of govern- ment, and after admitting that such things would not be tolerated in their country, they looked forward to some terrible explosion. Soon after the Lieut.- GeneraPs arrival at York, petitions, or rather re- monstrances, were daily sent him from assemblies, calling thems:: i'es township meetings; but which did not often consist of more than twenty names from a population of five hundred. Sir Peregrine, it seems, directed that all these petitions should be published in the government gazette. The grievances were chiefly imaginary, many of the statements altogether untrue, and some as bad roads in the back settlements are unavoidable in a new country. They all ended with demanding payment for losses sustained during the warj and this from places in the interior, where the war never reached. This arose frohi the circumstance that Mr. Gourlay prepared the greater number of these petitions, which were nearly the same, hence their absurdities. In answer to certain very indecorous petitions from some of the townships, full of general expressions of dissatisfaction and gross abuses of the legislature, particularly of the House of As- sembly, his Excellency demanded to be made ac- quainted with the specific grievances on which the UPPER CANADA. 19S petitioners grounded their complaints j and having obtained them, he adopted the novel expedient of publishing them in the government gazette, observ- ing, it was right that the good sense of the people in general should have an opportunity of exercising itself in the causes of discontent, and of those re- volutionary measures pursued by the malcontents, as they were exhibited by the complainants them- selves. Whether the General anticipated all the good effects of publishing the grievances, I cannot say, but they began soon to appear. First, the several townships, beholding a violent and seditious paper, without sense or decency, purporting to con- tain the collected sense of the inhabitants, were filled with indignation, and hastened to contradict it. This shewed the falsehoods which had been practised, and the great insignificance of the de- luded in numbers and respectability. Secondly, the grievances, coming before the public, were answer- ed most completely, and fully refuted j and many, who for the first time had then seen the mat'^r they had subscribed, instantly declansd their dissent. rv These- things only inflamed Mr. Gourlay the more against the governor, whom he grossly reviled, calling upon his associates to assemble at the same time with the parliament, which was convoked in October. The decided tone which the government had at length taken, satisfied the people that the utmost exertion of the law would be employed to put down sedition j and the delegates hesitated to II !l I J, 194 A VISIT TO aaaemble^ as their maater demanded. The parlia- ment, on meeting', enacted & law against convea- tiooa, such as the one wliich had already assembled, and threatened »till to assemble j but they were careful in doing tbta not to infringe the right to pe- tition. After passing many salutary laws, and esta^ blisbing the greatest harmony between the two Houses, which had been interrupted for nearly two years, the parliament was prorogued.' ■J /IB J; Mr. Gourlay bad honed to excite gome difficulty inthe parlianieot,.Qr, at all events, to proceed with his convention ; but the law which had passed put it out of his power to assemble them again. Thus disappointed, he became furious, and so outrageous, that his very friends, to wliom he had come out,' thought it their duty to arrest him, by virtue of a law passed fn 180*^ to keep the province free from seditious persons flying from the British empire.-- By this it is enacted, that « a person coming into the province, who has not taken the oath o£ al- legiance^ and is suspected of seditious practices, may be sent out of the province, upon examination of hia conduct by certam persona commissioned for that purpose/ Mr. Gourlay had carefully ab- stained from taking this oath; and bad even re- proached his friends, Messrs, Clarke and Dickson, for not putting this law in force against hiro^ long before they considered it expedient to take this ^ep. At length he was arrested, and sei-ved with • ■ >'ij j~ ^H-'i- •■*«iE«^" '.■.tte-^.-mKvr---' NkMM iimmrmim mmmm UPPER CAKADA. 195 a notice to leave tbc pirovince, which he has refuted to* d(^ and remaioa iu jail to take his triaL* . _ Even from prison bis seditious papers found their way to the press ; but the delusion has now va> nished, and the number of his followers are reduced to a very few persons, of desperate fortunes, with- out respectability or talents. Still the mischief which this man would have accomplished, under a less firm and intelligent government than that of Sir Peregrine Maitland, is incalculable. Though followed only by a desperate portion of the people, yet in possession of the press, continually writing, and full of activity, a minority appeared in his hands the majority ; and a civil war would have been the consequence, and for no reason but to gratify a man of desperate fortunes. Had not the industry of some of our British prints copied his mad effusions under the name of township meetings, for he was the sole amanuensis, by which it ap- peared that the whole province was ripe for rebel- lion, I should not have contaminated my pages with the mention of this man's name. He can now do no harm in Canada ; the people are sensible that the interests of the government and the governed i( * Since leaving the province, Mr. Gourlay has been convicted, and banished Upper Canada. i' 196 A VISIT TO is the same ; and that the lieutenant-governor can- not recommend himself in any way so well to the king, as by proving, that, under his administration, Upper Canada has prospered, and becorte more at- tached to the parent State. ' ; > i ,« 11. . I' (.1 • I - 1 1 / I ■ T > M. ». ! I' t • : I / ■; tft . ( ' ' 'i ' ' ' i ' ■ J • . ■ " ^ '^ • T t • ( ., ^ .., V I I ; • f ' I , . . I ' ' h, . •■I ' I : .■ : ! " ^ /.■ *?f'f ":l CON- !■ -^Ti;.- < .*»J - 1'' ; UPPER CANADA. 197 ' ' \> ■ ' . , ■ . ■ ■ t. ' ut ,,■■,. i i; /, : ' «.•',' I '.*! .1 ■ . , 1.' I J 111.' • • ' i > !■ .. I i I. .-,'''. !i h CONCLUSION. t >'^tf f-'w.' On reading over the foregoing remarks, I find many things wanting, that an inquisitive or scienti- fie inquirer may wish to know ; but my short stay in the country made it impossible for me to collect information upon those, nor was it my object. What I wished to do was, to give such information as an emigrant, coming to settle, would wish to possess ; and, in doing this, I have exaggerated nothing. — All persons leaving their native soil should weigh the matter well, before they take their final resolu- tion j and, after determining, they should look into the primary cause that takes them from their native land. Jf politics, then they ought to go to the United States ; not that they will be pleased with the government there, or will become content, but because the disaffected will not suit this province, nor will it suit them. But if the emigrant's desire be to maintain a rising family, and increase a small capital, with greater ease and certainty of success than in any other country that I know. Upper Ca- nada will not disappoint him. Here an honest man, ( '' 198 A VISIT TO m iit'i i with industry, may live in great comfort, and, in a short time, with less labour than in any othp part of America j but I wish every person to consider what I have written with coolness, and not allow himself to be carried away by too sanguine expec- tations. No man can succeed here who possesses not industrious habits j the lazy and indolent will be wretched here, as well as in England. This country furnishes all the materials for comfort and happiness, but they must be fashioned and shaped by the industry of mm. He who has not exertion t(» do this, had better stop and slumber at home. I believe I have not concealed the difficulties whicTi every person has to encounter who settles in a new country, for I see them on all sides ; but I likewise see that, where industry is applied, first competency, and then abundance follows. With pure air, and excellent water, the settler may calculate upon health ; with a most fruitful soil and good markets, and the blessing of providence, he may calculate on prosperity. I coald not take leave of York, where I had spent six weeks so pleasantly, without much regret. Tlie society, both as it respects the ladies and gen' tlemen, is very superior, and such as few to^vns in England can furnish. The judges, the crown offi- cers, the heads of the different departments, several professional gentlemen, merchants, and officers on half.pay, all living with their families in the great- IJPPfiB CANADA. 109 est hai-mony, cannot fail of rendering York ex- ceedingly agitable, and, to strangers, interesting. ■ -;'-..■ ';u<' : .-- %MMjijL.;i. : • ,,;! .-M .,,■ i.,-,- , This friendly intercourse /is niudi -increased by the amiable manners of the lieutenant-governor's family 5 which indeed presents, in all its simplicity, tenderness, and beauty, what a Cliristian family ought always to be. They are deliglitfiil persons, and beloved by all who know them. (;., ,:i „-.•; - • ;::) 1 ii;( Sir Peregrine Maitland's abilities are of the firet order, as his brilliant career in Spain and in the Netherlands sufficiently testify. 'I'hey have been again proved since iiis accession to the government of Upper Canada. He found the province rent by divisions— the Legislative Council and House of Assembly at variance—a turbulent demagogue tak- ing advantage of this to spread the flames of discord through the country, and succeeding in his evil de- sign beyond all belief. But, by the lieutenant- governor's wise and eneigetic measures, tempered with kindness and condescension, and a readiness to remove every real grievance as stxon as it was known, he has won the hearts of all the inhabitants. The differences between the two branches of the legislature are happily reconciled: tranquillity uni- versally prevails ; and the turbulent are enraged to behold salutary measures adopting which deprive them of all pretence for clamour. They see the distinguished person at the head of the govern- '^. 200 A VISIT TO ment, conscientiously applying all his abilities to the promotion and well-being of the colony. * With * great justice may the,, inhabitants of Upper Canada * congratulate themselves on the choice of the * friend and sharer in the glory of the first warrior * of the age, &s their governor, and receive it as * demonstrating, in the most convincing manner, * the paternal regard of his Royal Highness the * Prince Regent for the prosperity and happiness of * the province. .And equal reason have they to * congratulate themselves on the advantages ex- * pected to result to both the Canadas from the * more intimate union of counsels and interests * which will naturally flow from the connexion be- * tween his Excellency and his Grace the Duke of « Richmond, who nov/ presides over British Noi:th 'America.* > J .. , vxn ;,;;■••. vul.'.j*^/ • -^^ . . ;. ■• .-^ ^ .:. , !< ■.■■ . ''.■.., Already are these advantages beginning to be realized ; for this illustrious personage begins to be known to those he governs, by shewing a greater interest in their prosperity, and a stronger desire to become actually acquainted with the situation and capabilities of the country, than has appeared in any of his predecessors. ,*j 1 in * Address of the inhabitants of York to the Heut-gorernor, Sir Peregrvne Maitland. UPPER CANADA. 201 •vThenobie Duke is at this time, August 1819, accompanied by Sir. Peregrine Maitland, and his personal staff, making a journey through the west- ern part of Upper Canada, by Lakes Simcoe and Huron to Drummond Island, the most distant military post. From thence he comes round, through lake and river St. Clair, to Sandwich and Amherstburgh. and down Lake Erie to Niagara and York, that he may see in person what improve- ments can be made. These illustrious persons, on their return, pro- ceed to the eastern division of the province, for the same benevolent purposes. The anxiety of the noble Duke to ameliorate the condition of the Ca- nadas knows no bounds : his present journey, of between two and three thousand miles, partly through an uninhabited country, and for a still greater part through turbulent and dangerous in- land seas, exposed to many privations, demonstrates his zeal for the public good. Such exertions must excite in the hearts of the Canadians the same gratitude for his Grace's per- son and government, which is still felt and annually commemorated in that part of the United Kingdom over which he presided, with so great honour to himself, and advantage to the empire. His name in Ireland is never mentioned but with the greatest respect and most affectionate regard; N ' 1 i 20« A VISITf &C. and I find that, in Lower Canada, which is placed more immediately under his protection, the same confidence and zealous attachment to his Grace's person and government are growing fast into ma- turity* fV. i i , i ^ ,\^ i.yfii h'.r. ->|.-' ;••: . .,)*■ '■:* i ■■■■•■' i ;• ' i .' .-■, • > Ji ! / ■. I ' ■ • J' \> ■• ' ■) , ' -i.'!' '. I -'■,: . iU . . l- ;■ v'J oc •• >■>>' ;i.r . ■ : li.ii ■ . u v/ ; ! ' ■ :ti J." ...S r ! - • • / APPEN. —'jraryini. 1 .1 ■■ 1 • I ^ippmUx* N°- I. Moos of AppUeation at tke Seat of the Go verm^enl of Upper Canada, for a Grant of tke Wa,teLand, of the Crown, and Process to tssue oftlie Patent Grant. On the arrival of the settler at the seat of go- vernment (York), application is made by him It the governor's office, for permission to^tak the oath of allegmnce. where, if approved of. he re ce.ves an order to a commissioner for admil' oath? Y • ''"''"' """" ""' ""'- *« """ 1 oaths: ■faprotestant. of allegiance, abjuration, and upremacy ; ,f a Roman catholic, th^ oath of "l leg.ance only prescribed by the I«h of the king and ,ece,ves from the commissioner, on paymef^ of. fee of 2s. 6d. Halif,, currency,-. cerS' .hereof, which is annexed to a p«l„„ .^hf *f vernor .n council, (see No. ..) with such recom. N 3 1^ 204 APPENDIX. mendatory certificates as he may be possessed of, which he lodges with the clerk of the executive council, at the executive council office, paying him a fee thereon of 5s. 6d. Halifax currency, where he is dinected to attend again on the first day ap> pointed for the meeting of the governor in council for hearing land petitions,* when he is usually exa- mined by his excellency in council, and receives the same day an answer to his petition. If fa- vourable, he receives from the clerk of the council a paper, addressed to * The Surveyor-General of Lands,* called a warrant, containing the order in council on his petition, which he presents at the surveyor-generaPs office, where his name is entered for such land, open for location, as he makes choice of, on the plan of the township ; and the surveyor- general delivers to him a paper, called a location ticket, in which the land located, and conditions of the location, are stated, and for which the surveyor- general receives a fee of 2s. 6d. Halifax currency ; this paper, the location ticket, which authorizes him to occupy and improve the land, remains with the grantee until he has completed the settling du- ties jt on performance of which, application is * The appointed days are every second Wednesday. t The settling duties are, five acres to be cleared and fenced of the grant for each 100 granted, half the road in front to be cleared, and a log or other house to be erected, of at least 16 by 20 feet, on some part of the land. APPENDIX. 205 made by him to a magistrate, to view his improve- ment and building, and give a certificate of what hehasperformed,— if no magistrate in the town- ship, two of the neighbours are generally taken to view the duties, and make affidavit of them before the nearest magistrate to their residence; The certificate or affidavit is then taken to the surveyor- general, with the location ticket, upon which he notes whether any change or otherwise has taken place since the ticket was issued ; and if none ap- pears, gives him an authority to the receiver-general of the province to receive the proportion of the crown fee on the grant, and the whole of the fees of survey, for which he obtains a receipt, and pro- ceeds to the agent of the land granting officers (see No. 2.) to whom he pays the fees allowed to them for making out the patent grant, for which he also takes a receipt ; and which, with that of the re- ceiver-general, together with the location ticket, and certificate or affidavit of peribrmance of settling duties, are presented to the attorney-general, who retains them, and gives a fiat for the making out of the patent grant, addressed to the surveyor- general, who, on its receipt, gives a description of the boundaries, in which is also contained a spe- cification of the clergy reserve in respect of the land granted ; and which is delivered to the secre- tary of the province, and is authority for him to en- gross the patent grant j which being done, the pa- tent, accompanied by the surveyor-general's de- scription, is sent to the attorney-general, who exa- N 3 2oe APPENDIX. m'mei it, certifies the examinAtion by his name in the margio, and return* it to the provincial secre- tary, who then a^ixee to it the great seal of tlie province, and sends it to the governor's private se- cretaiy, to obtain the governor's signature ^ on re- ceiving which, it is sent back to the secretary of the province, who forwards it to the auditor-general of land patents, in whose office it is docketed, and then again returned to tlie paovincial secretary j who, being also register of the province, records it in the register's office, when it is deposited in the provincial secretary's oflGkie, to be delivered, on ap- plication, to the grantee* or Ms i^gent.* ' ''-''[ (N"- 1.) ■' ' ■' To his ExceUencjf Sir Peregrine Mmtiand, K.C.B. Lieutenant-Governor of the Provmce ^ Upper Canada^ 4md Meffor^Generai commanding his Ma* Jesty screes therein, ^. ^a, ^^c /« CotmciL The petition of of the township of Humbly Sheweth, That your petitioner is a native of * If the deed is taken trat uy agent, the secretary of the pro- vince receives a fte of 2s. 6d. ifbr fiUng the power of attonsey, which Must be x^roduced from the grantee. APPENDIX. 207 the parish of . in , in the county of ; and has lately arrived in this province from , ( , with his family, consisting of a wife and children, ^ That your petitioner has means to improve land, and is desirous to become a settler on the waste lands of the crown in this province. Wherefore, your petitioner humbly prays, that your Excellency would be pleased to grant him such portion of land as a settler, as your Excellency may deem meet. And your petitioner shall , ever pray. York, "I 1 . ■■ ! ■ (N"- 2.) Feei on Grante of Land, JSI9. 100 Acres, -,i . • j.^ - ' <♦ I4.5 14 1 200 ; " .■ p . 16 17 6 300 -■•,■ :.) ; 4u,i;^ *i '<• rii, i'-J, ' ui:m , $4 11 7 400 N 4 m 32 5 8 t li: xuo APPENDIX. "500 Acres " m L.d9 19 9 600 m '4) 47 18 10 - 700 • . .'v» •Vi.i'-" !• •■ 55 17 11 8(X) • w .' ' ■' ^ srib" •?:•:•■' ■'* , ' 63 2 900 • . 70 16 1000 m • 78 10 2 1100 • ' • >..'■"'; ■*i •^ 86 4 3 1200 ' m 93 18 4 . . '; •■ . ^ • N"- II. ... ... No. Ticket of location not transferahlet pursuant to an order in council of the 18th June, 1817, and order of his bearing date 1 do hereby assign to an emigrant settler from the lot number in the concession, of the township of in the district containing acres, which he is authorised to occupy and improve ; and upon proof produced to the honourable Executive Council, of liis actual settlement and residence on the said lot, at the end of two years he shall be entitled to receive a grant of the said acres, on the usual terms of payment of fees, under 9 10 11 o o 2 3 4 APPENDIX. 209 the regulations of the sixth of July, ons thousand eight hundred and four. ' -) i^o\ ; ;• Given at the Surveyor-General's Office at York, Upper Canada, this ». v ' day of one thousand eight ' ' hundred and . i i; . N"' III. Executive Council Chamber, ISth March, tl Chamber, \ h 1819. y ' PRESENT, -; His Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland, K.C.B, Lieutenant-Governor, in Council. Whereas great inconvenience accrues to emi- grants desirous to become settlers in this province, from the necessity of presenting themselves at York, before they can obtain a location on the waste lands of the Crown : For remedy thereof, his Ex- cellency the Lieutenant-Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Executive Council, is pleased to appoint in each of the districts certain persons to form a Board, with power to locate any emigrant or other person desirous to become a I' ^10 APPENDIX. settler in the respective district, 6n a lot of one hundred acres within the same, under such limita- tions, restrictions, and rules, as from time to time may be made for the government of the said Boards by any order in Council. The Land Board in the consist of District to RULES AND REGULATIONS. The Boards will assemble one day, at least, in each week, of which public notice shall be given in the district. -* II They shall examine every applicant, and minute his place of birth, age, and time of coming into the province ; shall receive and minute a <icclaratioii that he has oot before receiv^i any knd from the Crown within it. Wheieupon being satisfied as to his character and the prqjfiety of admitting him to become a settler, the Board shall administer to him the oath of alle- giance, aod deliver to him a certificate to that ef- fect, signed by two members at least, and, having entered his name in tlie township plan, shall, at the foot of the said certificate, assign to such settler the said lot, and delivier the certificate with such as- signment, in order that upon the pr4}ductian Uierc- ,a..: APPENDIX. su of, with proof of having performed the settlement duties, he may receive a patent grant of the land. To which purpose the Surveyor-General shall furniah the Boards with plans of each township, shewing the lots therein unlocated. After the deposit of such plans with the Board, no location to be made thereon by the Surveyor- General, until he shall have received, on special re- ference, a certificate from the Board that no settler is located thereon. , ' In case of any apparent occupation or improve- ment made on a lot, vacant on the plan, no location to be made thereon, without further order from the Surveyor-General. , Th^ Land Boards may appoint a clerk, to pre- serve a minute of their proceedings, and counter- sign their certificates, upon delivery of which he may receive from the applicant the sum of seven shillings and six-pence. , i, (CIRCULAR.) 212 APPENDIX. •> 1 (CIRCULAR.) Executive Council Office, York, 18 Sir, I have received the commands of his Ex- cellency the Lieutenant-Governor, to transmit to you copy of an Order in Council constituting a Land Board, of which his Excellency has been pleased to appoint you a Member. By the same command, I enclose, for your infor- mation, copy of a letter from his Excellency's pri- vate Secretary to Major Rogers, being an answer to certain queries proposed by him, as a Member of the Board in the Newcastle district, and also the form of a certificate of location. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient Humble Servant, Copij fx^ APPENDIX. 213 Copy of a Letter to D. McGregor Rogers, Esq. Chairman of the Land Board, Newcastle District. Lieutenant-Governor's Office, April 26, 1819. Sir, I am directed by his Excellency the Lieut.- Governor, to reply to your letter of the 15th instant, in explanation of those particular points on which you, in the name of the Land Board of the New- castle district, solicit more precise information than that contained in the instructions transmitted to you by the Clerk of the Executive Council. In the first place— With regard to such other persons besides emigrants, as the Board may be au- thorised to grant locations to, I am to explain to you, that by such ' other persons,' are to be under- stood such able sett'ers as resided in the district be- fore the late war, and produce due certificates of having done their duty in its defence. Secondly—With regard to military claimants. No military claimant, as such, is referred to the Board : — being to receive their lands gratuitously ) I S14 APPtyDlx. in the military settlement, any dispensation of that sort must be approved on application to the Lieut.- Governor in Council. ■* Thirdly.— The sons and daughters of U. E. loyalists, being entitled to gratuitous grants of 200 acres, must apply to the Lieutenant-Governor in Council. Fourthly.— Persons arriving from the United States, and bringing due certificates of their being British born subjects, are admissible by the Board. Fifthly.— A form of ticket of location will be transmitted ta the Chainnan of the Board, in which will be specified the conditions of settle- ment. n I Sixthly.— His Excellency is of opinion that the presence of the Chairman is not necessary at every meeting of the Board ; any three of the Members constitute a Board, and may proceed to act accor- dingly. Seventhly.- The settler should be thoroughly in- structed, that, in the event of his finding any im- provement on the lot to which he may be located, he is immediately to return with his ticket of loca- tion to the Board, and report the circumstance for the information of the government. Should he fail in this particular, he can expect no confir.Tiation of '▼^ APPENDIX. Sits the grant to him. In this case the Board will ap- point him another location. Eighthly.— With regard to the difficulty that may be experienced by the settler in finding his particu- lar lot :— His Excellency bids me observe, that, in order to remunerate the person who might be em- ployed to point it out to him, the settler must be burthened with another fee ; and as in the case of persons located by the Surveyor-General's office, no such precaution is practised, his Excellency does not perceive the necessity of the regulation. 1 am, &c. (Signed) GEO. HILLIER, P. Seen/. FORM OF LOCATION TICKET. »'>»^%^%%»>»% LAND BOARD, District. A. B. bom at \_place,'] in [country^'] of the age of years, having arrived in this pro- vince [(/aA?,] and petitioned to become a settler therein, has been examined by us j and we being satisfied with his character, and of the propriety of ne APPENDIX. admitting him to become a settler, and having ad- ministered to him the oath of allegiance, do assign to him one hundred acres of land, being the half of lot No. : i in the h concession of lto'wnship,~\ in [c?«/r«c/,] for which, upon due proof of having cleared and cropped five acres, and cleared half the road in front of his land, of having erected and inhabited a bouse thereon for one year, he will be entitled to receive a grant to him and his heirs, he paying the patent fee of L.5 14s, Id. sterling. ,.,i.i...>jiLj 'M uoijii.",". -i/ i'.:,.i?. oc N.B. If the settlement duty is not performed within two years, this location to be of no value, but assigned to another settler. N^- IV. Montreal Wholesale Prices Current, carefully corrected every Friday, •f Articles, L, s. d, L, s. d. Ale, Montreal, per hhd. 4 10 o O o o Almonds, soft shelled, best, per lb. - O 11 o 1 O Shelled Jordan p o o APPENDIX. 217 Articles. - Ashes, pot, per ton Pearls Bacon, H. English, per lb. Canada Beans, per min. Barley, pearl, per cwt. Coarse Beef, P. Mess, per bbl. Cargo Bottles, per gross Bread, Cracker, per cwt. ' tulip - Butter, 1st quality, per lb. 2d ditto Candles, mould, per lb. Dipped Spermaceti Cheese, English, per lb. American Chocolate, per lb. American Coal, Newcastle, per chal. Liverpool, Coffee, W. I. best quality, per cwt. W. I. common Figs, per cwt. Fish, dried cod, per cwt. Herrings, per bbl. Salmon, pickled X. s, d, 30 O O 34 O O 1 1 O 1 17 1 O 2 10 O 1 5 5 5 1 3 1 O O O 1 O O o o 4 o o o o 9 3 O 11 4 6 1 O 1 1 1 15 O 1 10 O 3 6 4 6 L» s, d» 30 5 O 35 O O 13 3 1 10 O 3 10 O 1 10 O O O 10 1 O 4 O 1 1 8 17 6 1 O P> O o 8 6 9 8 1 1 2 1 12 6 9 10 10 O 8 8 2 1 1 5 O 3 ]0 O o I, 218 APPKWWX, Articles, nour, superfine, per bbl. fine Entiere Flax»seed, per min. Fur^ beavers, N. per lb. Martins, each Muskrat, each Glass* 6^ by 7t, per box Vt by 8|, Si by 9i, 6 by a 7 by 9 8 by 10 lO by 12 lOby 14- Grain, barley^ per min. Oats Gunpowder, English, p. lOOlb. Hop^ Canada, per lb. indigo. East India Spanish irony pig, per cwt. Ei^Iish Russia Svfcdisll Three Rivers, wrought Da plough share moulds English boh Sheet Hoop L, 5. d, 2 O 1 15 O 1 10 O 5 O 1 O O O 4 1 9 2 10 O 2 17 3 2 2 kO 2 17 3 2 3 JO Q 4 O O O 4 O O & O 5 O O o 1 a O 6 O e» lo o 17 ft 1 lO o 1 7 6 1 7 6 6 O 6 6 1 1^> 6 O o 17 e 2 O O 17 6 I O o o 2 2 6 1 17 6 1 15 O O 6 1 o 1 o o o o s o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o a o o o O 3 6 O O 1 O 8 9 o 6 O 12 O J O o o o * lO o 1 10 o & o o 1 o o o» o o 1 10 o APPENDIX. »19 /Irtkles, L' Kettles, English, potash 1 — Three Rivei^, 44 to 190 gaU 1 Coolera, 7 to 32 ea. O Lard, per lb* - O Lead, bar, per cwt. 2 Sheet - 2 Leather, sole, English, per lb. Ditto, Canada O Calf, Eng. per doz. 5 Seal-skin - 5 Dressed upper, p. lb. O Lumber, oak timber, p. cub. ft. O White pine Shingles, pine, 18 in. pr. M. Cedar, 15 inch. Boards, 1 inch, per 100 Do. H Do. 2 Deals, 2^ Staves, pipe, per M. Red oak, Pipe packs, each Molasses, per gall. Nails, shingle cut, per M. Wrought Spikes, per cwt. Rods, per ton Oils, olive, per gall. Lintseed, Pease, split, per cwt. s. d, 10 10 10 o o o o 2 3 4 6 30 6 O o o 1 o o o 1 9 o o o o 3 6 1 8 O O O O O 1 O o s 12 6 9 O 10 O O O O 10 O o o 10 o 12 6 3 1 6 3 8 6 15 O o 10 o 7 6 16 O L, i* d, 2 5 O O 10 3 O 1 10 13 O 13 O Q O O 1 3 Si O 15 O O 10 o o o 3 4 S 7 O O o o o o o 31 O O 7 O 15 O 3 4 2 O 7 O O O O O O 10 8 O O 3 o 2 SI-,-- ^-... — 220 \P APPENDIX. Articles. z. s. d. Paints, white, 28 lb. per keg 16 Yellow, do. o 15 O Red, do. O 11 o Black, do. O 15 O Green, 14 lb. 13 4 Spanish brown o lo o Ochre, dry - 15 Pork, mess, inspected, per bbl. 6 10 o 5 O 18 O O 17 O 2 2 3 1 10 O 9 7^ 7 5t S • Prime Fresh, per cwt. Raisins, Muscatel, per box Bloom Salt, St, TTbe's, per min. Liverpool Lisbon Shot, all sizes, per cwt. Soap, white, English, per lb. Yellow, Canada, Spirits, Brandy, Cog. per gall. 9 Bourdeaux Spanish Jamaica, 16 O. P. 27 to 30 do. 35 to 40 do. Leewards Geneva Whisky, Canada Starch, Poland, per lb. Common, do. o 4 4 O O O O O O O 6 5 5 5 6 4 5 3 O 11 6 O O O 6 O O 9 O Xr. S, d. 17 6 2 5 1 3 1 3 7 5 10 O 1 O O O 18 O 2 3 2 10 O 6 6 5 5 6 4 6 O O 6 O 3 9 3 3 3 O 1 O 8 APPENDIX. 221 I^S Articles. Steel, German, per lb. English, Crawley, Blistered Sugar, Muscovado, per cwt Havannah East India Loaf, per lb. Tallow, per cwt. Tea, Gunpowder, per lb. Hyson Hyson skin 'J Twankey - ') Souchong - Congo '■ ' Tin, plates, IC. per box IX. Tobacco, Leaf, American, p. Ib.O Twist - O Plug - O Vinegar, white wine, per gall. Cyder - Wax, Bees, per lb. - O Wines, old Port, per 138 gall. 50 Benecarlo, per 126 20 Teneriffe, L.P.p. 120 45 Madeira,* per 110 Claret, per 54 Bronte, per 112 Malaga, per 1 20 Wool, Canada, per lb. o 3 i. O o 3 3 3 O 4 O O o o o 2 3 s. d. 1 O o 9 6 5 O 10 O 10 O 10 15 8 6 6 3 4 4 4 4 O O o o 15 O 7 6 O 1 80 15 40 25 O 6 2 O 11 2 6 2 O 2 6 O O O O O O O O O O O O 1 O L. s. d, O 1 3 9 3 15 O 3 15 O 3 15 O O O 11 9 6 6 4 2 4 2 5 4 2 3 3 10 O 7 O 1 4 O 1 1 3 4 2 3 .0 O O 75 O O 25 O O 50 O 100 O O 30 O O 2 3 ■\ )•• \\ 1 1, ',1 «tJ;.:,.x,.;-.i,L^^^^' ^ "S'" ^A^g„.,,tar' I »• n^ AWfEVDlK, prices Current in the Kingston or York Market, corrected weekly. -^ Articles, Beef, per lb. Mutton Veal Fork Fowls, per pair Turkey*, each Ge©se „ Cheese, per lb. Butter Fggfc, per dozen Barley, per bushel Peae, do. Potatoes, do. Oats, do. Turnips, do. Cabbages, per head, Flour, per cvvt. Ditto, per bbl. Tallow, per lb. Lard, per lb. Hay, per ton Straw, per bundle Wood, per cord. z. s. d. L. s. d. 5 7 6 o 7 6 n ^T 10 3 4 6 7t 1 1 3 1 3 5 6 2 2 6 3 3 9 1 1 3 2 15 16 3 1 7 6 1 10 O n 8 8 3 10 J 12 6 • 1 fy "■■^t.i AFYEVDIX. 823 i' N'* VI. • i .,j; . ^ t • *rable of Retail Prices at Yorkf, in Upper '■"' Canada, J t>.. ,j <) Green Tea, perR), Souchong, do. Hyson, do. Loaf Sugar, do. Muscovado Do. do. Maple Do. do. Oat Meal, do. Barley, do. Rice, do. Candles, do. Soap, do. Coffee, do. Chocolate, do. Pepper, do. Allspice, do. Cheese, English do. Ditto, American, do. Butter, do. Pork, per bane! Flour, do: Salt, pel bbf. Spirits, per gal. Reduced Rum, do. Brandy, do. Halifax Curr» L.Or 5 O lu.O 7 6 S ^ f 5 a n a 0» 74 a o 9 & o 6 a o T4 a n 1 cr 1 d a o 11 o o ^ 2 a a ^ 9 a I roi o 2 6* a I m lO a o 1 a 5 ro or 1 ra a r a a o 7 6 a o 5 o 12 6 •M, \4 ,4 224 AFPBHDIX. L.O Holland Gin, per gal. Treacle, do. Allum, per lb. Copperas, do. Tobacco, all kinds, do. Sole Leather, do. Cow Hides, per side Calf Skins, per skin Nails, all sizes, per lb. Window Glass, per 100 feet Putty, per lb. Iron, Swedish, per cwt. Ditto, English, do. Crawley Steel, per lb. Blistered Ditto, do. Iron Pots and Bake Pans, do. Plough Share Moulds, do. Shovels and Spades, each Men's Shoes, per pair Women's Do. do. Flannels, all sorts, per yard Cloths, all qualities, do. India Cottons, per piece Printed Cottons, per yard Check do. do. Striped ditto, do. Irish Linens, all qualities, do. O Bussia Sheeting, do. - O Blankets, all sizes, per pair 1 THE END. Ha^faa: Curr, 10 o L.0 o 6 3 o o o o o 4 O 2 O O O O O O I o o o 6 11 6 1 6 1 6 12 6 10 O O 11 O O O 9 10 O O 1 3 1 O O 5 7 5 1 6 6 6 O 1 lOi 6 6 2 O 1 O I 104: 1 \0\ 2 2 6 2 6 1 O O O 17 6 4 10 O O 1 6 13 7 6 O 15 O O 12 6 3 5 1 O 5 2 2 2 7 3 9 O 6 6 6 O 1 15 O r,.(;hal...rr>,MCo. fr.nters, HbcTdFUi^. ■A^^^^i. i&iMi X Curr, ..0 ( [) ^ < 2 6 1 17 6 4 10 1 6 1 3 7 6. 15 12 6 L 3 9 2 5 1 5 2 i 2 i 2 6 6 1 7 6 ; 3 ; ) 1 15 ;