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The following diagrama iiiuatrate the method: Lea cartea, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre film*s d des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clich*. il est film* * partir de Tangle aupArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nomb/e d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammef . suivants illustrent la mAthode. i errata id to fit ie pelure, pon A n 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 i_.;»-f' ( i / } "V-i*, H Mil H. TUB HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY OP TIIIJ VALLEY. i * 4 TO AVHICII IS ATPENDED A CONDENSED PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OP THE ATLANTIC UIVITED STATEIS, AND THE WHOLE AMERICAN CONTINENT. s. -4 Second Edition. By .l^iao^li^ #lfiit^ AUTnOB or 'jJIECPLLERTiONS ot" THe'l/{87 rt>l Y-EAAS IN THE , '• .-• *•• *MISSISSifM ♦VALLEY." ••'/. ' ' * •* r • • • ;., — »_-» — . • • • ' * • 'sAlve magna parens* IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. E H. FLINT AND L. R. LINCOLN. 1832. ilik c- s tt .Mi «# ■5 ,.. :^rc! IT DEDICATION. brief sketch of all the great interests of our country, dwells with most detail upon the fertility of the American soil, and the un(':oui1tcd millions of acres of its untilled and teeming wilderness, yet to be occupied by independent and happy yeomen. 'Fortunate as has been the general course of your career, since my first work was inscribed with your name, you have experienced a loss as severe, as can try the human heart, and have sustained it with a firmness of Christian pliiloso|)hy, which [)roved that in the midst of prosperity you had not forgotten on what tenure we hold all the blessinfijs of this mutable existence. - 3Iay you continue to enjoy the luxury of doing good, in the tranquil repose of resignation in the midst of the children, that remain to you, rendering your age as happy, as your past life has been honorable and useful. With feelings of indelible gratitude and respect, I subscribe myself your friend and humble servant, Timothy Flint. ( _J^ "»tlf Mt'i -mil •' 1^1 CONTENTS OF VOL. I. V Introduction. General features of the Mississippi Valley, 17. Faco of the country, 18. Minerals, 29. Climate, 31. Diseases, S5. Trees and shrubs, 40. Vines and creepers, 50. Shrubs, 53. Herbs, grasses and flowering plants, 54. Medicinal plants, 57. Animals, CI. Birds, 69. Reptiles 74. Fishes, 79. Rivers, 80. Indians, or Aboriginal inhabitants, 103. Monuments, 120. Present population, 130. Na- tional character of the western people, 135. Religious character of the western people, 141. Pursuits of the people, 147. Civil History, 159. Settlement vf" Canada, Florida and Louisiana, 160. Character of the colonists, 101. Settle nents on the'Ohio and Monongahela, 162. Settlement of Tennessee and Kentucky, 163. Defeat of the Ken- tuckiansat the Blue Licks, 164. Settlement of Ohio, 165. Invasion of Pensacola, 167. Massacre of the French at Natchez, 167. Braddock^s defeat, 168. Victory of Wolfe, capture of Fort Loudon, and close of the war, 168. War of the American revolution, 169. Peace, 170, Spanish treaty, 171. Indian war, and peace, 171, Western insurrec- tion, 172. Cession of Louisiana, 172. Burros expedition, 173. First steamboat on the western waters, 173. Renewal of the Indian war, 173, Surrender of Detroit and Indian war in the south, 174 . Massacre of the Raisin, siege of Fort Meigs, defence of Fort Stephenson, victory of Perry, and defeat of General Proctor, 175. Death of Tccumseh, and in- vasion of Louisiana by the British, 176. Battle of the eighth of January, 177. Peace, 178. State of the country, 178. Failure of banks, 179. Relief laws, 180. EstablishmRnt of a sound currency, 181. Immigra* lion, 182, » <- CONTENTS. Florida, 105. Climate 105. Production;;, 10<{. Minerals, 100. Animals, 100. Bird^ and fish, t2t)0.^ Scr|)cnt9, !2U1. Insects, Baysi Inlets and Sonndfl 202. River, 203. Islands, Curiosities, Fountains, Lakes, and Spriiv'. '^04. SavnjTcs, Civil Divisions, and population, 206. Oomparativo atlv.inta^rs of irnnii. Character of the population, 217. Semi- naries, Climate, and Diseases, 21N. Employment of the people, and chief J 'towns, 210. County towns, and Constitution and laws, 222. Mississippi, Names of Counties, Population, and Faco of the country, 223. Rivers, 224. Islands, Climiite, 22a. Indians, 228. AgricuU . ture and pursuits of the people, 220. Attention to schools, Constitu** ' tion. Chief towns, 230, History, 232. Louisiana. Parishes. Population hy the census of 1830, 233. Face of the country, soil, &c. 231. Affiicultiire and productions, 238, Slaves, 243. Rivers and lakes, 245. Islands, 253. Bays, Prairies, 254. New Parishes, Fortifications, 257. C'liicf towns, '258. Roads and Canals, 268. Constitution and laws, 2(59. Ciiaracter, 270. Religion, 272. Arkansas Territory, Civil divisions and population, 274. Face of the country, 274. Rivers, 275. Soil and productions, 270. Climate and salubrity, 281. Settlements, 281. Chief towns, 282. Indians, 283 History 283. Missouri, Civil divisions, and population, 28iJ Face of the country. Soil, 286. Productions, 298. Animals, 291 . Agriculture, 202. Houses, '^'■' &c. Climate, 293. Salubrity of the country, 295. Scenery, Roads, &c, 296. Minerals, Fossils, «fec. 297. Ri^rs, 300. Game, &c. Chief towns, 305. Constitution, Laws, tScc. Manners, &.c. 310. His- % toiy, 312. «* Illinois, Civil divisions and population, 316. Face of the country, 318. Rivers, 322. Minerals, 325. Agriculture and Manufactures, Chief towns, 326. Diseases, &c. 328. Roads, Public improvements, Seminaries, »fec. 328. Constitution and Laws, History, 329. Curiosi- ties, 331. ' If ll fci Ljfai"*r^ ^ > ^- .. ,| j, ^^-.. .. ■ ■- .4.„.^t. .ah.m.', .■% . ILfc*.. m,ti „ fci 'mr II •m\M»0^'* COMTNTS, vu Tennessee, Oivil diviuionH, l'u{)ulatiun, !}3:i. I'uco uf Uie coantry, .'{:{5. Kartlis, Fussily, uiiil salts, WSo. Climate and Productions, 336, tiivers, 337. Agrictilturi>, produce, and inumiractiircs, chief towns, 338. Natural curiosities, 310. Constitution, Schools, 343, History, 343. Kentucky, Civil Divisions, 343. Po!)ulation, 310. Face of the country, 346. Rivers, 34S. Minerals and mineral waters, 350. Agri- culture and produce, 351, Cliiff towns, 352. Education, 359. Char- acter, Manners, Hcc, 305. Ueli<,non, constitution and government, &c> 3G0. Indiana, Civil divisions, 307. Population 361). Face of the country Soil, &c. 360. Climate, &c. 371. Rivers, 372. Chief towns. Char- acter of the country, in which they are situated, 374. Navigable waters, 382. Indians, 383. Game and fish. Minerals and Fossils, Antiquities, Curiosities, 384. Roads and Canals, 385. Seminaries, 385. Con- stitution and Government, 380. History, 387. Revenue, 388. Ohio, Civil Divisions, 380. Population, 391. Face of the country, 391. Agricultural productions, 303. Rivers, 304. Mineral^; and mineral spring, 402. Climate, 403. Antiquities, 404. Increase of population, religion, 405. Trade and Manufactures, Colleges and Sem- inaries, 406. Chief Towns, 408. Military positions, 420. Roads and Canals, 420. MiUtia, Penitentiary, Government, 421. (.:«. West Pennsylvania, Population, Face of the country, Education, 423. Inhabitants, Chief Towns, 424. »•* West Virginia, Face of the country, 430. Streams, Chief Towns, ^ 431. . 4 Michigan, Civil divisions, Population, 433. Face of the country, «> Rivers, 443. Islands, 435. Indians, Climate, 430. Agriculture, Man- ufactures, Exports, &c. 430. Chief Towns, 437. Government, His- * tory, 438. Sketches of the lakes and the river Niagara, 439. »fc North- West Territory, Uivur«, 440. Face of the country, Minerals, Climate, 447. Towns, 448, Tin CONTENTS. Minouri Territory, Face of Uio country, 450. Mountains, 451. Riven, 459. Climate, 4M. Oregon Territory, 458. Rivers, Face of the country, 458. Temper* •tur^ 459. Discovery of tho country, Mexican States, 401. \ '^ 9 IT ' o © .4 ^ P »i» ' l" *—BJBW)ifW Xll I'REEACR. * I which it is compiled, he would Jiopo, lliat adverting to the original works, by pointing to the sources of liis inforniation, W(jiild have the contrary effect of inducing those readers, who wish to view the suhject in all its details and bearings, to repair to those works, and rescue them from oblivion. Many of them are works of great merit, and have undesenredly passed i^to disuse. Ho bfts not considered it necessary to give individual quotations, or to disfigllre the margin with references and autliorities. The reader ought to rely /^pon the fact, that nothing is here put down, which has not been previously weighed in the author^s mind, and admitted, either as matter of his own observation, or on what he conceived to be the competent and credible testimony of others. Sometimes upon a particular point, h« has-adopted the phraseology of the author entire. At other times, he has adjusted the views of one author by another, endeavouring to settle a just medium from the result of his own observations. For the topographical and geographical parts, he has chiefly consulted the following authors, viz : Charlevoix, Volncy, Bartram, Breckenridge, Darby, Stoddard, Atwater, Ohio and Mississippi Navigator, Dana, Emi- grant's Guide, Long's Exjjeditions, Pike, Schoolcraft, Beck, successive extracts from Cincinnati Directories, and Woodruff's Engraving of the city, corre^ndence with Mr. Dunbar of Mississppi, Dr. McKay of Arkan- sas, Judge Carr of St. Louis, Rev. M. Peers, and Professor Caldwell of Kentucky, Daniel Bryan, Esq. of Alexandria, and Messrs Lanier and Farnham of Indiana ; beside short extracts from various correspondents and cotemporary Gazettes too numerous to specify. In reference to the second part of this work, it is from the obvious necessity of the case, more sinjply a work of compilation, than tlie former- He has indeed brought every item of his own personal observation to bear upon it. But that observation in any individual case must be limit- ed. He could not name, if disposed, all the sources, from which he has sought and obtained information. For many facts he has relied on the authority of Mr. Worcester's excellent Gazetteer. The portions of the work, that treat of the country beyond the United States, have been chiefly drawn from Capt. Parry, Malte Brun, Humboldt, Breckenridge, and Bullock. But the intelligent reader will readily understand, that in the present state of our intelligence, touching the physical geography of Mexico and South America, Malic Brun has left little to be said after him. Of course he has been the authority chiefly followed. He regrets that other motives, than his own inchnation, inculcated by experience have compelled him to omit the greater portions of the history of the western country, and roplact; ii witli more extended details ot 'z ■X i r i ~''**miittmmfB PREFACE. XUl rial works, 5 contrary t in all its hem from Jesenredly ions, or to ir ought to 3 not been as matter X2tent and point, h« les, he has settle a consulted :kenridge, •ana, Emi- successive ing of the of Arkan- 'aldwell of anier and ispondents e obvious le former- rvation to be limit- ch he has 3d on the )ns of the ave been kenridge, id, that in graphy of said after statistical and physical geography, the points of absorbing interest about which emigrants to the great West are chiefly solicitous. He would have been amused, if an author were apt to be so amused by the criticisms elicited by his first edition. He desires to withdraw his hands from the scalding element of cotomporary history, while the parties are still on the stage. The manner and form must have been fashioned to the dictation of a thousand individuals to have pleased ; and what is worse, the emendation proposed by one would have been the most annoy- ing blemish to another. He knows no remedy for the deluge of criticism^ that inundates the land, but a callousness of patience equal to every proof. The reader knows better than himself, that it is a great evil to write a great book. Though he is desirous of perpetrating the very offence, there are but too many, with whom it is a more unpardonable fault, to write a good one. His former work met with a criticism equally generous, eloquent and just, in tlie North American Review, and a shorter but not less generous and happy notice in the New- York Evening Post, he has no doubt, from the pen of William Biyant, Esq., of whose laudatory notice, if any one were not proud, he would be more or less than man. He would have attributed something of the fervid and affectionate notice of that work, he presumes from the pen of his friend. Dr. Caldwell, to the partiality of a long and tried friendship, had he not been aware, that he holds even his partialities in severe subjection to his judgment. To Morgan Neville and Charles Hammond, Esqrs., he is indebted for much aid in furnishing books and documents on this and various similar occasions. It would be ungrateful in him to close without referring to the continued kindness of Henry Starr, Esq., who confers favors with so much ease and unconsciousness as, probably, to have forgotten, that he owes him this public expression of his gratitude. For the rest, every indulgent reader will overlook such errors of the press, as have occurred, when informed, that a considerable part of the work was carried through the press, while the author was laboring under severe indisposition. Cincinnati, January 1st, 1632. ilcated by le tiistory It-tails ot XIV POSTSCRIPT. ;.n The following extract from a communication from Mr. Neville to the author of this work, in reply to certain enquiries, gives a condensed and hasty account of the dreadful flood which has just spread destruction over an extent of rich and fertile country, of at least 1,000 miles. As it re- cords an event almost simultaneous with the publication of the "Geogra- phy," and which must form an important event in the history of the West, I have thought it not irrelevant to give it a place in the Preface. It will be of more convenient reference, than the columns of a newspaper. / ' Cincinnati, February 29th, 1832. J SiH, In reply to your interrogatory on the subject of the freshet, which 'at this moment presents such a scene of desolation and suffering, I can state that in my opinion such a flood has never happened since the settle- ment of the AVestern Country. I was born on the banks of the Ohio, and my recollection extends back to a period when Cincinnati was but a village; and I am perfectly satisfied tliat I never saw the water so high by many feet. The Ohio, after having been frozen up and covered by the thickest ice which was ever witnessed in this city, during the whole of the month of December and part of January, broke up about the 6th of that month, doing incalculable damage throughout the whole course of this noble stream. From that period until about ten days since, there has been a succession of rains, which were suflicient to keep the river and its tribu- taries at heights rather greater than ordinary ; on the 7th of this month the water commenced swelling with uncommon rapidity, with a settled rain, the wind at S. W., and the temperature such as to lead to the conclu- sion, that the rain was as extensive as it was heavy. On Saturday night the 10th inst. it increased to a perfect storm. On Monday, 13th, the Ohio had gained the maximum of 1826, estimated the greatest.rise for the last 17 years. At this point it appeared to become stationary, and prob- ably had commenced receding. A few hours produced a melancholy change; the river again advanced, and passing the old marks of 1815, and 1793, poured its flood through the aqueduct under Main street into Columbia. Shortly after, the river at the lower part of the town broke over the Levee, and joining the water rushing out of the aqueduct, pre- sented the novel and distressing sight of a rapid river having Columbia street for its bed. At this time the merchants in Main street, between Front and Columbia, after ineffectually attempting to keep the water out of their cellars by clay embankments, yielded the contest and turned all their exertions to removing their goods from their cellars to their first floors. The merchants in Front street had been driven to this alternative a day or two before. The draymen now having nothing to do in their usual business, found ample employment in transporting business men and oth- ers, attracted by curiosity, across Columbia street at the different cross streets, from Broadway down to the low ground at the west end of the town. In the mean time the river continued rising at a rate seldom wit- nessed even when confined within its banks; the merchants in Front st. were forced to remove their property to the second stories — those on Main soon found it necessary to follow their example. Drays disappeared, and small crafts of various and novel construction took their place. It m it 1 -■«. '^ms* 'eni*" POSTSCRIPT. *^..#. XV lUe to tlic insed and ction over As itre- "Geogrt- theWest, . II will iper. 1832. let, which ng, lean the settle- the Ohio, kvas but a high by ickest ice month of lat month) his noble as been a its tribu- lis month [ a settled le conclu- day night L3th, the ise for the md prob- slancholy of 1815, treet into ivn broke net, pre- ]!olumbia between ater out irned all St floors. ^e a day }ir usual and oth- nt cross d of the om wit- ront St. n Main peared, ce. It was then found that precautions for security had been postponed too long. A vast amount of merchandise and produce was destroyed before it could be raised to the second stories. The lower part of the town was completely inundated, and the small frame houses, which composed the greatest amount of buildings in that section of the city, were threatened with de- struction. I have not yet understood how many have been destroyed, but in looking down upon them from Fourth street, I counted yesterday nearly 20 entirely upset. The call of humanity was obeyed before that of interest; labourers could not be had in sufficient numbers to assist tlw merchants, because they were engaged in removing hundreds of wretch- ed families from the flood below. There were several steam boats in har- bor, and the yawls of all found ample employment. The edge of th« water below Race street presented scenes only equalled in cases of wid« spread conflagrations, such as that at Fayctteville, last summer. Boats were constantly landing unfortunate families who, with their little prop- erty, remained exposed to the weather until the city authorities could provide shelter and food. Finally, on Thursday the 16th inst. the work of desolation was consummated ; the water broke over the bank from Deer Creek bridge at the east end of the city, to Main street, turned the current of Columbia street down, and laid the whole of the town lying between Lower Market or Second st. and the river, under water, except the large stores on the south side of Pearl and Market streets. The cellars of those, however were filled with water, which, with little variation, rose in them all to within an inch or two of the floors. I believe the cellars on the north side of these streets are partially filled with water also. The scene presented at this moment, and the revolution produced in the appearance of things can scarcely be believed by ourselves; it re- sembles more the extravagance of a dream, than reality. All that part of the town below Walnut street under water is occupied by private resi- dences, and probably includes nearly one-third of the population of the city. Water, Front, and Columbia streets are distinguished by many ex- cellent brick houses ; the population is more dense than in any other portion of the town. When the water reached the first floor, the families remov- ed up stairs, and those who were sufficiently provident to have fuel car- ried up in time, have remained ever since, (now 4 days,) in their houses, surrounded by a sea in miniature; many, however, have][abandoned their houses and taken up tlieir residence at public houses, and with their friends on the hill. Notwithstanding this melancholy state of things, the mode of living is matter of amusement to many of the families thus surround- ed. When misfortune cannot be avoided, there is a kind of instinctive philosophy in man, which makes us submit often with a good grace. Thousands of boats have sprung into existence, like Minerva, from the brain of the "Thunderer." The scene is absolutely Venetian. Every house has its boat, already called a gondola, in which the owners travel about on their necessary vocations; visits are regularly made in this way. In passing down to a friend's house yesterday in his "craft," I passed two or three gondolas with young gentlemen in them, under the windows of their female acquaintances; I cannot say decidedly that they were breathing vows or wafting sighs k» tlic ears of the laughing fair ones ■ but I did observe wicker baskets drawn up by cords, which, on enquiry, found to be filled with refreshments instead of billets. This employ- I XVI 1^' POSTSCRIPT. Ww ■i rl » V 1 ment, if not so dangerous was doubtless equally useful as that of the old Knights Errant relieving imprisoned damsels from the castles of giants and magicians. The waters have commenced receding tliis day, the 19th inst. ; but the river falls slowly. Tlie amount of damage, exclusive of the actual 8us> pension of all business, cannot be yet estimated; but it must be very consid- erable. I have already heard of several individuals who have lost from 4 to 6,000 dollars in damaged goods; but the worst remains* We dread to see the state of the streets and cellars when the river subsides. It will be terrible, and unless the most vigorous measures be immediately tnken, our beautiful and flourishing city will probably next summer be the thea- tre of some malignant disease. This flood forms an Era in the history of the Valley of the Mississippi; it is probably four to five feet higher than any freshet which has happened since the first settlement of the country; and wlien we reflect that it has swept through a country well filled with towns and villages, and distin- guished by fertile fields and rich settlements, for the distance of 900 miles, our anticipation must needs be most gloomy. The loss of life, we fear, must be great; the loss of property can never be calculated. The bottom ground plan of Cincinnati is as high, if not higher, than any other bottom situation of the river. Upon the whole, the citizens of Cincinnati will have cause to remember the winter of 1831-2. It was ushered in by a series of cold weatlier never witnessed before in this country, either for intenseness or duration, which closing the river and canal for six weeks, made fuel as dear and scarce as in the Atlantic cities. Next the Water Works was burnt down, which, in addition to the want of water, produced the necessity of establishing Volunteer Watches, to prevent further suflering from fires. And to con- clude, we are now visited by a flood of a character which, 20 days ago, we would have considered as improbable, as a collision with the expected comet ! The water, at its highest elevation, was 63 feet above low water mark. The velocity of the current six miles and a quarter per^our. .^■' 1- 7 / * ^ HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. We do not intend in these introductory remarks, to enlarge upon BO copious an article, as the geology of this valley. We reserve more particular observations for sectional heads of this subject. We dismiss it here, by observing that the valley itself is universally, of what geologists call secondary formation, with here and there bjulders of granitic rock, out of place ; that the western slopes of the AUeghanies are generally of what is called the transition character ; that the southern extremities of the lakes are transition, and the nothern granitic and primitive in their formation ; that the Rocky Mountains are, for the most part, primitive, until we approach the Gulf of Mexico, in the Mexican state of Texas, where the strata of rock again appear to be blue lime stone. Over all the immense valley between these limits, there ire marks of recent formation, — apparent indications as Volney conjectured, that the country was once submerged, and has, not many ages since, emerged from under waters ; and that to casual inspection, the vallies, the bluffs and the hills, the regular lamina of stones, and strata of soil, the marine exuviae, and in short, all the physical aspects of the country wear the appearance of once having been the bed of seas, or fresh water lakes. From its character of recent formation, from the prevalence of lime stone everywhere, from the decomposition which it has undergone, and is constantly undergoing, from the considerable proportion of decomposed lime stone in the soil, probably results another general attribute of this valley — its character of uncommon fertility. We would not be understood to assert, that the country is every where alike fertile. It has its sterile sections. There are here, as els-j'vhere, infinite diversities of soil, from the richest alluvions^ to tV mpst miserable (lint knobs ; from the tangled f^. mmmmmm* "'^'^'^Sfft. * III' ) '- 16 ^ -■• i MIS8IMIPPI VALLEY. cane brakes, to the poorest pine lulls. There are, too, it i« well known, towarcLi the Rocky Mountains, wide belts, that have a surface of sterile sands, or only covered with a spirac vegetation of weeds and coarse grass. But of the country in general, the most cursory observer must have remarked, that, compared with lands, apparently of the same character in other regions, the lands here obviously show marks of singular fertility. The most ordinary, third rate, oak lands, will bring successive crops of wheat and maize, without any manuring, and with but little care of cultivation. The pine lands of the southern regions are in many places cultivated for years, without any attempts at manuring them. The same fact is visible in the manner, in which vegetation in this country resists drought. It is a proverb on the good lands, that if there be moisture enough to bring the corn to genninate, and come up, there will be a crop if no more rain falls, until the harvest. We have a thousand times observed this crop, continuing to advance towards a fresh and vigorous maturity, under a pressure of drought, and a continuance of cloudless ardor of sun, that would have burned up and destroyed vegetation in the Atlantic country. We have supposed this fertility to arise, either from an uncommon proportion of vegetable matter in the soil ; from the saline impregnations mixed with the earth, as evidenced in the numberless licks, and springs of salt water, and the nitrous character of the soil, wherever, as in caves, or under buildings, it is sheltered from moisture ; or, as we have remarked, from the general diffusion of dissolved lime stone, and marly mixtures over the surface. In some way, spread by the waters, diffused through the soil, or the result of former decomposition, there is evidently much of the quickening and fertilizing power of lime mixed with the^ soil. Face op the Country, &c. Our prescribed limits will necessarily dwtate brevity to us, in touching on this topic. The Alleghany moun« tains, as is well known, stretch along in ridges, that run parallel to each other, with great uniformity. They form the eastern rampart of this great valley. The middle ridge appears to be generally the most elevated; to separate the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Missis- sippi ; and gives name to the rest. Another of these ridges has the name of the Laurel ridge, from the number cf laurels growing on its sides. Approaching these ridges, they are a sublime object, as seen in the distance. They rise before you, apparently an impassable barrier, their blue outlines pencilled, like clouds, on the sky, and their northern and southern extremities both running beyond the reach of vision. The ascent from the Atlantic side *s ^renerallj r.iore abrupt and precipitous, than on the descent towards the valley of the MissiEfsipoi. 4 FACE OP THE COUNTRY. 10 /veil knownr surface of ' weeds and iry observer of the same N marks of , will bring T, and with em regions attempts at r, in which on the good ) germinate, the harvest, to advance Irought, and burned up uncommon ipregnations and springs rever, as in , as we have and marly ers, diffused is evidently ed with the> necessarily iiany moun~ parallel to rampart of lly the most the Missis- is the name an its sides, leen in the arrier, their orthern and sion. The precipitousj. *rhe last western range exhibits, very strikingly, the regular distribution of the lamina of lime stone, and the unifoiinity of their dip, as though they had been laid, stratum upon stratum, l)y art. The composition is, for the most part, cither lime stone, argillito, gray Wiickc, and combina- tions of slaty matter with sulphate of iron; in short, those kinds of combinations, which occur between motalifcrous lime stone, and inclined sand stone. Between the Alh^frJiany mountain and the last western ridges, the tributaries of the Ohio begin to show themselves in the form of rivers. Their murmur is heard, as they rapidly roll along their rocky beds, breaking the stillness of the mountain forest; and they often wind great distances, before they find their place of escape from the mountains. The scenery on one of the transits over the mountains has arrested the attention of most travellers. A turnpike road leads near, where the Loyalhanna has divided the Laurel ridge to its base. The view, that appertains to this chasm, is at once striking and sublime. A beautiful mountain stream, overhanging mount ins, the breeze sweeping down the sloping forest, profound solitude, thv screaming of the jay, and the dash of the river, rolling rapidly along i i. rocky bed, and its waters hidden under the shade of laurels, conspire to soothe and elevate the mind. After we descend the last mountain summit towards the valley, the country is still a succession of high hills, generally rounded smoothly down their declivities, and with more or less of table land on tlieir summits. On the very tops of the Alleghaniea we discover the indica- tions of approach towards the region of coal. On the summits of the hills beyond the mountains, the eye not only traces it among the clay slate, by the blackened surface of the road, but the sense of smell detects it in the atmosphere about the houses, and indicates, that in the midst of woods, it is the easiest fuel to procure. Its dark smoke streams from the funnel of the blacksmith's forge. Pittsburgh and Wheeling are blackened with its impalpable effluvia. Following tlie course of the AUeghanies, south of the Ohio, and along the foot of the ridges is generally a country of undulating and elevated swells, covered, while in its natural state, with a heavy forest. The country about Pittsburgh may be called hilly, though there are few hills so precipitous, as not to be susceptible of cultivation. — Through the Pennsylvania and Virginia sections of the Mississippi valley, you traverse hill beyond hill, generally with small and fertile Tallies between them. Some of these hills have almost the character of mountains. They are for the most part, however, susceptible of good roads. ltIiill9SIPl>l VALLEY. i I 1*1 J On the national road, as we descend the last mountain towards Brownsvillfl, and the valley of the Monongahela, the eye takes in an liorizon, ai broad as it can roach, of hills, vnllics, orchards, and pasture grounds of champnigne and rich country in the two states. The xontrasta of the open pastures and fields, pencilled by a perfectly straight line on the edge of the thick forests, and on the rounded summits of the hills, afford a delightful prospect. The finest parts of the interior •of New England will scarcely compare with this view. The same may be said of views of Tennessee and Kentucky, as we successively ap- proach them, in coming over the mountains from North Carolina and Virginia. After we have left the immediate vicinity of the mountains, Kentucky is neither hilly, nor level, but has a general surface of delightful undulation. There are beautiful and extensive vallies, with only sufficient irregularity of surface to carry off the waters. Such is that charming valley, of which Lexington is the centre; and such is that, embracing the barrens of Green river. Tennessee is more generally hilly. The great ranges of the Alleghanies diverge into separate mountains in this state and divide it into two distinct sections, called East and West Tennessee. Keeping parallel with the mountains, and still advancing south, in Alabama the hills begin to subside, although the northern and western parts of this state may still be called mountainous. But, on entering this state, the features of the country begin manifestly to change. On the hills, instead of oaks and deciduous trees, we begin to hear the T)reeze in the tops of long leaved pines. We have a long succession of pine hills, and fertile vallies between them. We soon mark another very striking change in the landscape. In coming from the Ohio, we have seen the country, in a state of nature, universally covered with a thick forest, generally of deciduous trees, with here and there a rare holly tree, or other evergreen. We have afterwards traversed extensive pine forests of the black, or pitch pine, with tall straight trees, and the earth beneath them free from under brush, covered with grass, and almost entirely destitute of stones. In the rich alluvial vallies we remark a considerable portion of laurels. The forests preserve an unvarying verdure through the winter. We begin to notice these forests first giving place to the barrens, with a few sparse trees, arranged, as in an orchard. These barrens are soon succeeded by prairies, or savannas, as they are here called. The hills have subsided to extensive, level and grassy plains; and this order of landscape continues, until we meet the belt of pine forest, that skirts the gulf of Mexico. Its swampy and equable surface rises but little above the level of the gulf, and is separated from m 4 :4 SUM^-***-..,,^- TACF. or TIIF. tOlNTRV. •1 dill towards tukcs in an I and pasture states. The :ctly straight summits of ■ the interior he same may cefsively ap- Carolina and e mountains, 1 surface of vallies, with !rs. Such is and such is eAlleghanies it into two ing south, in and western , on entering change. On to hear the uccession of lark another ho Ohio, we vered with a a rare holly tensive pine nd the earth and almost re remark a unvarying first giving an orchard. as they arc and grassy t the belt of nd equable Pirated from m J It by a margin of sand, driven into iitui}:! by tht: mutual incesMuil action of the wind and the .soa. Beginning ngiiinon iho norlli sidcof tho Allo^rhnny river, and descend- ing that river hotwron ihc north l);uil< aid the lakes, the first portion of the country is hilly ; l)ut, as \\v. dosrcnd towards the Ohio, the country, though in some [)l;ices. |)jrlit;iil;iily alony the Muskingum, hilly, is generally only gently wavinj:, nnd is on the whole more level than the south side of the Ohio. Appro ichin;,' the hikes, the country becomes quite level; and there are various pin ces in the northern parts cf Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, near the lakes, where the country is so level, marshy and low, as in winter and spring to be covered with water from four inches to a foot in depth. The northeastern pirts of Ohio mny be considered hilly. In passing on the great road from Wheeling to Cincinnati, there are, indeed) near the Scioto, considerable plains. But the general aspect of the coun try presents fine elevations, often a Icngiie nrross, with rich table land un the summits, and the declivities susceptible of cultivation. For five or six miles from either bank of the Ohio, there are, almost universally high hills of a singular configuration, known by the name of the 'Ohio hills.' From the Scioto the r.spect of tlie country is more level; and on thtt waters of this river we begin to discover our approach to the wide prairies of the west. We open upon the fine, level Pickaway, or Piqua prairies, or plains ; and thence throug! the northern parts of this state, advancing west, along the plains of Mad river, and into Indiana, prairies become more common in the same proportion, as we advance farther west. The general surface of the timbered country is more level. As we approach the Ohio, the forest is more dense and uniform, and that river, in its whole course, originally rolled through an unbroken forest. In Indiana the pro- portion of prairie land is far greater, than in Ohio ; and in Illinois it has an immense disproportion over tlie t imbered country. Back of Shawnee town, and between the waters of the Saline of the Ohio, and those of the Missis- sippi, from the base of this level country springs up a singular chain of hills, which a recent traveller has seen fit to dignify with the name of mountains. The remainder of the state of Illinois may be for the most part designated, as a country of prairies and plains. Beyond the state of Illinois, advancing north on the east side of the Mississippi, pine hills, ponds, lakes, marshes and prairies alternate to the sources of that river. The plashy regions in that quarter are covered with thick wild rice, and there Providence has provided inexhaustible pasture for the countless numbers and varieties of wild water fowls, that migrate to these regions to fatten in the autumn, before their return to the soath. Near Rock river of this region, we come tipon the hills and swells of Itnd i I n % MIMIMIPPI VALLDY. in that extensive district called the mineral country, where the ores of lead are so plentifully found. The surface of iIk' country west of tlio Minsissippi is generally much more level than cast and Houfli of it. I'licro arc blutlH, often high and pre* cipitous, near tiio great wiilrr courses. Not far west of the MiHsissippi there is muci I country covi^rcd with (lint knoh.s, singular hills of conical shape, that with u haao «)f a mile in circuinfcrcnci' often rise four or five hundred feet high, and anj covered on their aides with fechr, or arrow stones, of a Hiliceous substance, not uniik(> Hints, aiul used as substitutes for them. There are, as in the country Ix'tween the St. Francis and White river, hills that might almost warrant the designation of mountains, appear* ing to be continuations of the Alleghanies, whose spurs seem to cross the Mississippi in the Chickasaw blull's, and to be continued to the west in the St. I'rancis hills. But the general surface of the country, between the Mississippi and the Rocky mountains, is comparatively speakinjj^, a vast plain, probably, as we liave remarked, the largest one on the globe« Except in the bluffs of the rivers, and on the flint knobs, it is, on the sur- face free from stones, to an astonislung degree. The surface of prairie, a hundred leagues west of the Mississippi, is, probably, in comparison with the timbered country, in the proportion of twenty to one. The little timber, that is seen, occurs only on the skirts of water courses. As we recede from the margins of the Missouri, the Platte, the Yellowstone, Arkansas and Red rivers, the prairies become more dry, sterile, and desti- tute not only of wood and water, but of all vegetation. Travellers wander for days in these desolate wastes, without having either wood or water in their horizon, over sandy deserts, scantily covered with coarse grass and weeds. This is the appropriate range of the buffalo. In some parts, there are in fact, wastes of moving sand, like those of the African deserts. On the lower courses of the Missouri, St. Francis, White, Arkansas and Red rivers, we see extensive alluvions skirting their banks, of great and inexhaustible fertility. The alluvial prairies, too, in these regions teem with vegetation. But on their upper waters, as soon as we have re* ceded from a narrow and fertile belt on their shores, the boundless waste of the prairies beyond, seems destined to be the last resort of buffalos, or the region of herds of domestic cattle, attended by migrating shepherds. Mountains. We have seen, that the general character of the Alle- ghany ridges, is to stretch along in continued and parallel lines, the central ridge of which gives name to the rest. The spurs of these ridges, which in Kentucky, and particularly in Tennessee, under the names of the Bald, Iron, Laurel, Yellow, Unaka, Copper, Clinch, Powell's, Cumberland, &c. originate strMms, diversify and give grandeur to the scenery in these m '4 '4 :S8.»(W».».„.^ MOlNTAlNi. 9S >reB of lead ally much {h and pre* VliHsisHippi of conical our or five , or arrow aubstitutet and Whito n8,appear> ) cross the he west in y, between peaking, a the globot on the sur- f prairie, a irison with The little !S. As we pllowstone, and desti- Travellers r wood or vith coarse In some le African Arkansas of great 36 regions have re* less waste iifTalos, or lepherds. the AUe- he central es, which 'the Bald, land, &e. in these states, are tdl in cultivated nrid popiiluuti regions, ond will be described under th<> heads cW' ll •> stuten, in which tlu^y lie. Tli(> clitTs and rocks, of which tliey »re comiM^t'd, hcnr, as w«; hnv(! remnrktHl, the general charHt tcT of tratisHion fonuiition ; and iIk; stnita liuvi; that lamoUated regularity, !iiul ihnt unifunnity of dip, or incliiuition, wliich have been scientifically dcsrribcd by yoolDyislsi. Thoan circuinsttinces are so obvious and striking, us to produce even in unobservant eyta a degree of surprise. That immense range of lofty moiintiiins, which gives rise to the long rivers, that wind through Huch n vnst extent of prairies, and come into the Mississippi on the west side, in nbnost ils whole course runs wide from the limits of cultivation, and thelnunts of civilized man. — Their forma- tion, character,and height are comparatively but little known, and present descriptions of them must necessarily be vague and general. They will for ages only attract the gaze and astonishineut of wandering liiinfrrs, or occasionally a few enterprising travellers, that will scale their summits on their way to the Western sea. Now and then a savage, difl'erently constituted from the rest, will pause on their snowy crags, be impressed with their sublimity, and think of the Great Spirit. The rest will con- tinue to date their eras from the time, when they hunted on their eostem, or western declivities. It will be long, before the detached mountains, and the prominent peaks will be named, classed and described. It does not appear, that many of them rise above the region of perpetual ice. Though from the passage of Lewis and Clark over them, and the concur- rent testimony of others, in the latitude of 47° north, immense quantities of snow are on their summits, between the Missouri and Columbia, in the months of June and July. They are seen, like a vast rampart, rising from the grassy plains, stretching from north to south. Sometimes their aspect is that of continued ranges, of a grayish color, rising into the blue of the atmosphere, above the region of the clouds. A great num- ber are black, ragged and precipitous; and their bases strewn with immense boulders and fragments of rock, detached by earthquakes and time. From this iron bound and precipitous character, they probably received the appellation, ' Rocky mountains ' Whether any of them are volcanic, or not, is not certainly known. We have often seen large masses of pumice stone floating on the Missis- sippi, and still oftener on the Missouri. These are generally of a reddish yellow, or flame color, and are among the largest and finest specimens of this kind of stone, that we have seen. Whether discharged from volcanic mountains, or, as others assert, from hills of burning coal, is not certainly known. Mica is abundantly carried along by the waters, that flow from these mountains. There can be no doubt, that these ancient and mag- .% 34 MfPSISSirri VALLEVi nificent piles are of primitive formation. They are much higher, more rugged) and have generally a more Alpine character, than the Allegha- nies. They apparently stretch along at about the same distance from the Western sea, as the former from the Atlantic. The great rivers, that are discharged from their eastern and western declivities, wind still further between their interior and exterior ridges, in finding their passage through them. The Columbia, or Oregon on the west, and the Arkansas on the east, wind more than an himdred leagues, in search of a place of escape from the mountains. As on the Alleghanies, the rivers, that run in opposite directions from these mountains, generally have their sources near each other. In fol- lowing the beds of these rivers up to their sources in the mountains, we i5nd the easiest paths and the gentlest acclivities, by which to cross them. The character which they had gained, of being continuous, high, and every where alike rugged, and a barrier almost impassable, between the regions east and west of them, from the descriptions of the first adventur- ers, who crossed them, seems now to have yielded to a very different impression. Various leaders of expeditions of trappers have crossed these mountains, in directions more southern, than those of Lewis and Clark. They affirm that they found none of those formidable, and almost insurmountable barriers, which undoubtedly exist on the route of those distinguished travellers. We have at this moment under our eye extracts from the journal of Mr. Ashley, the leader of an enter- prising and powerful association for procuring furs, who has crossed these mountains at different points. This journal narrates the account of a passage over them, from the sources of the Platte to lake Bueneven- tura, on the western side. It asserts, that he found an easy passage even for loaded carriages ; with an ascent no where as sharp, as on the national road over the Cumberland mountains to Wheeling. He even asserts, that the acclivity was so gentle, as no where to have an ascent of more than three degrees; and that nature has provided not only a practicable, but a good road quite tc the plains of the Columbia. The testimony of travellers seems to be uniform, that to the eye, indeed, the ranges are unbroken and continuous. But nature appears every where to have indicated her wish, that no part of the earth should be interdicted by unsocial barriers from communication with the rest. Through the loftiest and most continued ranges there are found chasms, natural bridges, ascents along the beds of rivers, and corresponding descents on the opposite side, that render a passage over them comparatively smooth and easy. ,4 We know not exactly on what ground travellers have classed this vast Y9x\^) into the divisions of the Rocky. Chcpywan. and the Masaerne 11^' 'If- ^ m •'fifi'. v;l.ni!:u.\], siiri aci;. 25 ^her, more e Allegha- ce from the rs, that are itill further ir passage B Arkansas ' a place of ;tions from er. In fol- mtains, we cross them. , high, and letween the St adventur- sry different ave crossed ' Lewis and lidable, and the route of t under our ' an enter- las crossed the account Bueneven- asy passage harp, as on ieling. He to have an ovided not Columbia. lye, indeed, ivery where interdicted [hrough the IS, natural [escents on 'ely smooth led this vast Masaerne i ifurtinlains. The ranges at the sources of tlic Arkansas, and running thence towards the gulf of Mexico, have so commonly borne the latter name, that they will probably retain it. A single peak of this ridge, seen as a landmark for immense distances over the subjacent plains, has been called, and we think, ought for ever to retain the name of mount Pike. It is of incomparable grandeur in appearance, and has been dif- ferently rated at from seven to ten thousand feet in height. On the ddges of this range the Colorado of the Pacific, the Rio del Norte of New Mexico, the Roche-jaune, or Yellowstone, of the Missouri, and tlic Arkansas and Red rivers of tlie Mississippi, that have their outlets at such immense distances from each other, have their sources. It will hence be easily inferred, tliat this is the highest land of this part of North America. Geographers have supposed, that it is a circumstance of course, that between all rivers, that have any length of course, there are ranges of hills, more or less elevated, separating the tributary waters of the one river from the other. It is often, but by no means always so, in this valley. Many of the large rvers have no other separating ridge, than a high and marshy plain, tiiat discharges, as has been remarked, its waters from one extremity into the one river, and from the other extremity into the other. But, as a general rule, in the medial regions of this valley, the considerable rivers are separated from each other by ranges of hills, more or less distinctly marked. In this region of plains, where a person may have been bom, and travelled to New Orleans, and lived to old age without ever seeing an elevation, that deserved the name of mountain, these hills become respectable by comparison. These ranges of hills are most considerable in the mineral country in Missouri, between St. Francis and White river, in Arkansas territory, between Washita and Red river, and between the latter river and the Sabine. South and east of the Mississippi, there are considerable ridges of this character in the states of Mississippi and Alabama. These ranges of hills will be more properly noticed, under the description of the states and territories, where they respectively occur. The general surface of this valley may be classed under three distinct aspects; the thickly timbered, the barrens, and the prairie country. In the first division, every traveller has remarked as soon as he descends to this valley, a grandeur in the form and size of the trees, a depth of verdure in the foliage, a magnificent prodigality of growth of every sort, that distinguishes this country from other regions. The trees are large, tall, and rise aloft, like columns, free from branches. In the rich lands they are generally wreathed with a drapery of ivy, bignonia, grape vines, or 4 26 MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. I i other creepers. Intermingled with the foliage of the trees are the broad leaves of the grape vines, with trunks, sometimes as large as the human body. — Frequently these forests are as free from undergrowth, as an orchard. Sometimes the only shrub, that is seen among the trees, is the pavepaw, with its splendid foliage and graceful stems. In other places, especially in the richer alluvions of the south, beneath the trees, there are impenetrable cane brakes and tangle of brambles, briar vines, and every sort of weeds. These are the safe retreats of bears and panthers. This undergrowth universally indicates a rich soil The country denominated 'barrens,' has a very distinct and peculiar configuration. It is generally a country with a surface, undulating with gentle hills, of a particular form. They are long and uniform ridges* The soil is for the most part of a clayey texture, of a reddish or grayish color, and is covered with a tall coarse grass. In addition to a peculiar' ity of feature, more easily felt, than described, the trees are generally very sparse, seldom large, or very small. They are chiefly of the different kinds of oaks; and the barren trees have an appearance and configuration, appropriate to the soil they inhabit. The land never exceeds second rate in quality, and is more generally third rate. It is favorable, in the proper latitudes, to the growth of wheat and orchards. On the whole, this country has an aspect so peculiar and appropriate, that no person, at all used to this country, is in doubt for a moment, when he enters oa the region of the barrens. There are large districts of this kind of country in Kentucky, Tennessee and Alabama. They are common in Illinois and Missouri, and are seen with more or less frequency, over aB the valley of the Mississippi. In this region, and in the hazle or bushy prairies, we most trequenilf see those singular cavities, called * sink holes.' They are generally in the shape of funnels, or inverted cones, from ten to seventy feet in depth, and on the surface from sixty to three hundred feet in circumfe- rence. There are generally willows, and other aquatic vegetation, at their sides and bottoms. The people here have their own theories, to account for these singular cavities; and as an earthquake is the agent most likely to seize on the imagination, and the most convenient one to solve inexplicable results, they have generally supposed them the work of earthquakes. Others have imagined them the huge wells, from tdricb the domesticated mammoths, and the gigantic races of past generations quenched their thirst. There is little doubt, that they are caused by running waters, which find their way in the lime stone cavities, beneatb the upper stratum of soiL We shall see elsewhere, that this stratum generally rests on a base of lime stone; and that between this and the 8ulMitrata> there are often continuous cavities, asr we see in the lioie I' ^v« OBNERAL SURFACE. 2? arc the broad as the human rowth, as an B trees, is the other places, ees, there are les, and every nthers. Thi» t and peculiar idulating with niform ridges, lish or grayish I to a peculiar- generally very .f the different configuration, cceeds second ivorable, in the On the whole, lat no person, m he enters oa »f this kind of re conunon in uency, over aR lost frequently e generally in eventy feet in }t in circumfe* vegetation, at m theories, to :e is the agent ivenient one to Ithcm the work |ls, from which generations are caused by ities, beneath this stratum this and the inthelime •tone caverns; and that in these interstices between the different strata of rocks, brooks, and even considerable streams pursue uninterrupted courses under ground. The cause of these sink holes was probably a fissure in the super-stratum of lime stone. The friable soil above found its way through this fissure, and was washed away by the running waters beneath. In this manner a funnel shaped cavity would naturally be formed. In fact, the ear often distinguishes the sound of waters run* ning beneath, at the bottom of these sink holes. The remaining, and by far the most extensive surface, is that of the prairies. Although they have no inconsiderable diversity of aspect, they may be classed under three general divisions; the healthy, or bushy, the alluvial, or wet, and the dry prairies. The healthy prairies seem to be of an intermediate character between the alluvial prairies and the barrens. They have springs covered with hazle and furzy bushes, small sassafras shrubs, with frequent grape vines, and in the summer with an infinite profusion of flowers, and the bushes are often overtopped with the common hop vine. Prairies of this description are very common in Indiana, Illinois and Missouri, and they alternate among the other prairies for a considerable distance towards the Rocky mountains. The dry prairies are for the most part destitute of springs, and of all vegetation, but weeds, flowering plants, and grass. To the eye they are so nearly level, and the roundings of their undulations, so gentle, that the eye, taking in a great surface at a single view, deems them a dead level. But the ravines, made by the water courses through them, sufficiently indicate, that their swells and declinations communicate a quick motion to the waters, that fall on them. This is by far the most extensive class of prairies. These are the plains, over which the buffalos range. These are the plains, without wood or water, in which the trav- eller may wander for days, and see the horizon on every side sinking to contact with the grass. The alluvia], or wet prairies form the last and smallest division. They generally occur on the margins of the great water courses, although they are often found, with all their distinctive features, far from the point, where waters now run. They are generally basins, as regards the adjacent regions, and their outlines are marked by regular benches. They are for the most part of a black, deep, and very friable soil, and of exhaustless fertility. In the proper latitudes, they are the best soils for wheat and maize ; but are ordinarily too tender and loamy for the culti- vated grasses. They rear their own native grasses, of astonishing height and luxuriance. An exact account of the size and rankness of the weeds, flowering plants and grass on the richer alluvial prairies of Illinois and Missouri, would seem to those, who have not seen them, an /V* 98 MlftSISSirn VAM.EV. * iil idle exaggerafion. Still more than Uio rolling prairies, tlicy impress the eye as a dead level; hut they still have their slight inclinations towards their benches, where their waters are arrested, and carried off. But, firom their immense amount of vegetation, and from the levelness of their surface, wherever they are considerably extensive, they have small ponds, plashes and bayous, which fill from the rivers, and from rains, and are only drained, during the intense heats of summer, by evaporation. These ponds in the alluvial prairies, that are connected with the rivers, when they overflow by bayous are filled, in the season of high waters, with fish of the various kinds. As the waters subside, and their connec- ting courses with the river become dry, the fish are taken by cart loads among the tall grass, where the water is three or four feet deep. When the waters evaporate., during the heats of summer, the fish die; and although thousands of buzzards prey upon them, they become a source of pollution to the atmosplierc. — Hence these prairies, beautiful as they seem to the eye, and extraordinary as is their fertility, are very unfavor- able positions, in point of salubrity. Flocks of deer are seen scouring across these rich plains, or feeding peaceably with the domestic cattle. In the spring and autumn, innumerable flocks of water fowls are seen wheeling their flight about the lakes and ponds of these prairies. They find copious pasture in the oily seeds of the plants and grasses, that have seeded during the summer. During the months of vegetation, no adequate idea could be conveyed by description of the number, forms, varieties, scents and hues of the flowering plants, and the various flowers of the richer prairies. In the barrens are four or five varieties of " ladies slippers,' of different and the most splendid colors. The violets, and the humbler and more mod- est kinds of garden flowers, are not capable of competing with the rank growth of grass and weeds, that choke them on the surface. Some of the taller and hardier kinds of the liliaceous plants struggle for display, and rear themselves high enough to be seen. Most of the prairie flowers have tall and arrowy stems, and spiked or tassellated heads, and the flowers have great size, gaudincss and splendor, without much fragrance or delicacy. The most striking of these flowers we shall attempt to class and describe, in another place; only remarking here, that during the summer, the prairies present distinct successions of dominant hues, as the season advances. The prevalent color of the prairie flowers in spring is blueish purple; in midsummer red, with a considerable propor- tion of yellow. In autumn the flowers are very large, many of them of the helianthu^ (orm, and" the 'prairie receives from them such a splendid coloring of yellow, as almost to present to the imagination an immense surface of gilding. MINKnAT.S. S9 y impress the tions towards •d off. But, ;lness of their I small pondSr lins, and are evaporation, ith the rivers, high waters, their connec- )y cart loads deep. When ish die; and omc a source utiful as they very unfavor- een scouring [nestic cattle, wis are seen airies. They grasses, that be conveyed hues of the ries. In the different and id more mod- with the rank Some of the display, and rairie flowers ids, and the ich fragrance 1 attempt to that during ninant hues, ie flowers in rable propor- ny of them of h a splendid an immense MiNnRAW. There are diffused in tlic different jiositiona oftliis valley thecoTiimon proportions of minerals, oxides, neutral salts, fossils, and the different kinds of earths. Salt springs, as we shall have occasion elsewhere to remark, arc found in a thousand places, in all proportions of saline impregnations, from water, that is merely brackish, to that, which is much Salter than sea water. It is obvious to remark, the wise and benevolent provision of Providence for the j)opulation of the country, in thug providing, at such distances from the sea, an article so essential and indispensable to the comfort and subsistence of civilized man. Hence it results, that there is no point in this valley, far removed from the means of an easy and cheap supply of this necessary article. The cattle have dis- covered this impregnation in innumerable licks. It is found in form like a hoar frost, in ' Salt prairie,' between the Osage and the Arkansas, Arkan- sas and Red river are at times perceptibly brackish, from the quality of salt in solution in the water. Nitre is found almost pure, and is lixiviated from tlie earths in the lime stone caves, that fibound in various places. Muriate of magnesia, or Epsom salts, is found in caves in Indiana. Sulphates of iron and alumine are found in greater proportions, than in most countries; and coperas and alum might be among the manufactures of this region. Carbonate of lime abounds, as we have seen, every where. Sulphate of lime, or gypsum, is found in various places. We have seen most beautiful specimens, striated with needles in stars, and when pulverized and prepared, of a snowy whiteness, — said to have been brought from the Kansas of the Missouri. Quarries of gypsum are afiirmed to exist on the upper waters of the Mississippi, in Tennessee, and in various other places. That call for the use of this material, which would alone lead to adequate search for it, has not yet been heard. It has not been required, or used in building, or the arts ; and such is the universal fertility of the soil, that it will be long, before it will be sought after, as a manure. But that time will come, and then, in this region of secondary formation, there can be no doubt, that asufliciency of this article will be discovered for all the necessities of the country. On tlie waters of the Little Sioux of the Missouri, and on a branch of the St. Peters of the upper Mississippi, is found a beautiful species of indurated clay, — constituting a stone of the most singular appearance, commonly called ' pipe stone,' from the circumstance, that the savages in all these regions, quite to the western sea, make their pipes, and some- times their other ornaments, of it. It is said to be cut from the quarry, almost with the ease of wood. It hardens in the air, and receives an exquisite polish of impalpable smoothness. It is nearly of the color of blood; and is a beautiful article for monumental slabs, vases and require- ments of that sort. If it be as abundant, and Jis easily procured, as has 4i ^' UI8SI08IPPI VALLEY. h 1. ^ i -1^.; K ' iiil i. it 1 1. 1 -t* . been said, it will one day become on article of extensive use tlirough the country. For althougii marble abounds, tliis is a more beautiful material^ than any marble that we have seen. It has been generally asserted, that an imaginary line of truce extends round the places, where this ■tone is found, within which the most hostile tribes pursue their business of cutting out stones for pipes in peace. We have seen frequent specimens of ores, said to be ores of cinabar. There arc, unquestionably, abundant ores of copper and zinc. Copper, it is known, is not found so abundantly on the shores of lake Superior, as it was anticipated it would be, A vast number of specimens of copper ore are found in different points in this valley. Specimens of pure and mal- leable copper have been shown to us; one of which, said to have been found in Illinois, thirty miles east of St. Louis, weighed three pounds. There is a river of the upper Mississippi, forty miles above the mouth of the Mis- souri, called by the French, ' Cuivre,' or Copper river, from the supposed mines of copper on its banks. Ores of copper have been fo"nfl at ditferent points on the Illinois. Considerable quantities are smelted at Galena, dug with the ores of lead. Iron ore is abundant in too many places to be «) named. Ores of antimony and manganese are occasionally seen ; but the progress of the arts, and tlie circumstances of the country not having called for these articles, little note has been taken of the discoveries. Hunters and travellers have asserted, that gold dust is brought down to the Missouri by its upper waters, and has been seen on the sand bars at low water. Whether it be so, or whether the shining particles, which they undoubtedly saw, were only of mica or talc, is not known. On the ranges of the Rocky mountains, continued in Mexico, it is well known the pre- cious metals abound. A great many mines of silver are wrought on the western spurs of the Masserne mountains, near Santa Fe. It is natural to infer, thai the same ranges, when thoroughly explored on the eastern side, in the vicinity of the sources of the Yellowtone, Platte, Arkansas and Red rivers, will be also found to have their mines of silver and gold. It is at present asserted, that a silver mine has been recently discovered iu , Indiana. 1 The only mines, that are yet wrought in this country, to any extent are those of iron and lead. Near Pittsburgh and on the Monongahela, in Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee and Missouri, are manufactories of iron from native ores which we shall notice, whe ; ^vv^ ^peak of those states. Lead ore is found in different points of this valley with more ease, and in greater abundance, perhaps, than in any other part of the world. The particular sections of country, where these ores are dug in greatest abundance, are in the county of Washington in Missouri, from twenty to fifty miles west of the Mississippi, on the waters of Big Creek, a river of the Maramec; CLIMATU. 81 C tlirough the tiful material, [illy asserted, s, where this :heir business 3 of cinabar. . Copper, it luperior, as it of copper ore )ure and mal- 'e been found is. There is li of the Mis- the supposed id at different d at Galena, r places to be seen; but the )r not having discoveries. [ down to the 1 bars at low , which they 'n the ranges )wn thepre- aught on the IS natural to sastem side, isas and Red gold. It is iscovered ia ly extent are >ngahela, in of iron from ites. Lead id in greater le particular indance, are r miles west ) Maramec; *»"■»■ nnd near Rock river, at Dubuquo^s mines, in the state of Illinois; and at Riviere du feve, improperly ca]l«;d Fever river, upon the upper Missis- sippi. We shall naturally speak of the mincH, when we treat of the states, in which they arc found. CiraATE. In a country of such immense extent, the climate must necessarily be various. We must, of course, be brief on so copious a head. Between the sources of the Mississippi and Missouri, and the Gulf of Mexico, there is every variety of temperature, from that of the Arctic regions, to that, where flourish the olive and the sugar cane. We may, perhaps, obtain conceptions of some exactness, by inspecting ouf thermometrical tables of the temperature at diftcrent points of the valley. We have resided throjjgh the season in the northern, middle and southern regions of it. We are confident, as a general fact, that the climate more exactly and uniformly corresponds to the latitude, than that of any other country. The amount of heat and cold, or the mean temperature through the year, is greater or less, at any place, according as its position is more or less to the south. In ascending the Mississippi from New Orleans to to St. Louis, or Cincinnati, in the spring, we take a direction generally north. One of the swifter steam boats will considerably out'travel the progress of spring ; and from the region, where the foliage of the trees, and vegetation generally have unfolded into all their verdure, we find the foliage on the banks of the river gradiftlly diminishing, as we ascerdj and after we pass the mouth of the Ohio, we shall perhaps, see the buds on the trees but just beginning to swell. In descending the same river in the autumn, we observe this influence of the climate reversed in a most impressive manner. At Pittsburgh the trees are stripped of theif leaves by frost. At Cincinnati nature is laying on the last mellow colors of autumn, and the leaves are beginning to fall. At Natchez the forests are still in the verdure of summer. We have noted this beauti- fully graduated and inverted scale of the seasons, more than once, in ascending and descending these rivers. It is very obvious, why climate in this valley should so accurately cor- respond to latitude. It is an immense basin, spreading from north to south. Tliere are no ranges of mountains, spread across the valley in an eastern and western direction, to change the current or temperature of the winds, or to give a material difference of temperature to places, situ- ated in the same latitude. Hence it is, that in traversing the country from south to north, we discover the diminution of temperature, • ; marked by that sensible and unerring thermometer, the vegetable creation, very accurately indicating the latitude of the place. 32 Mi»;assirri valm:y. y : Mr. Jefferson his supjioscd, tlmt in this valley tl»e Icii^raturo i« higher, than in the same parallels in the Atlantic country. Dr. Drako and others Jiave successfully combated this idea. Mr. Jefferson asserts, that the reed cane, mycijia macrosperma, and paroquets, are seen fartlier north on the Ohio and the Mississippi, than on the Atlantic shore. If it be so, the inference, drawn from these facts, might easily 1)0 shown to 1)0 erroneous, by showing, that their locality along these streams is fixed by other circumstances, than temperature. On the Tennessee, the cane, finding a congenial soil, and circumstances, on the banks of a river run- ning from south to north, will spread its seeds along those banks to a point more northern, than its native residence. The immense numbers of paroquets, that are seen on tlio lower courses of the Mississippi, will naturally push their colonies far to the north on that river, where they still find all circumstances, but temperature, the same ; where there are old, large and hollow sycamore trees, the favorite haunts of tliis brilliant bird, furnishing it at once food, shelter and a hottie. These regions, sheltered from the damp and cold northeastern gales of the Atlantic shores in the spring, will probably have that season milder and mor6 forward, than in the corresponding latitudes of the Atlantic. But in such a vast basin, inclining from north to south, and permeated in its whole extent by such a river, as the Mssissippi, an atmosphere of the cold air of the elevated regions qf the table lands at its sources will naturally be set in motion at tim^ by atmospheric changes, and be pro- pelled towards the south. The colder air will often rush down to supply the vacuum, made by the rarefaction of southern temperaturov Hence north and south winds, — in other words, winds up and down this valley, frequently alternate, and, together with their collateral winds, the northeast and southwest, are the prevailing winds felt in the valley. Southern and southwestern gales predominate in the summer, and north- em and western in winter. Hence the winter is much more changeablcj than that of the Atlantic countiy, frequently softening even in its north- ern parts, from weather, in which the mercury stands below zero, to weather of such mildness, as to invite people to sit at the open windows in January and February. In the niedial regions of this country the winter commences about Christmas. The severest weather is ordinarily between that time and the second week in February. The common snows are from two to eight inches deep, and they seldom lie many days. We have, however, seen the snow at New Madrid, near 36° north, lie more than a fortnight. Nortii of this mean region, as at Prairie du Chien, on the upper Mississippi, and the Council Bluffs, on the Missouri, that is to say, not far from the climate of New York ajid Albany, the snow does not fall as deep, as at I. "Ji 1 ft . .; CLIMATE. S3 ii^Kraturo id Dr. Drako rson asserts, seen farther shore. If it shown to Ik) IS is fixed by c, the cane, ' a river run- 3 banks to a nse numbers sissippi, will , where they sre there are tliis brilliant em gales of ason milder he Atlantic. I permeated mosphere of sources will and be pro^ sh down to emperature* 1 down this 1 winds, the the valley. and north* changeable, its north- )w zero, to in windows nces about it time and om two to however, fortnight. Mississippi, ir from the deep, as at those places or lie so long. The cold sometimes is severe, but of\ener intermits, and is followed by mild, and even warm days. We may class four distinct climates, between the sources and the outlet of the Mississippi. The first, commencing at its sources, and ter- minating at Prairie du Chien, corresponds pretty accurately to the climate between Montreal and Boston; with this dificrenco, that the amount of snow falling in the former is much less, than in the latter region. The mean temperature of a year would be something higher on tlie Mississippi. The vegetables raised, the time of planting, and the modes of cultivating them, would, probably, be nearly the same. Vtege- tation will have nearly the same progress and periodical changes. The growing of gourd seed com, which demands an increase of temperature over that requisite for the com of the northern states to bring it to matu- rity, is not planted in this region.^ The Irish potatoe is raised in this climate in the utmost perfection. Wheat and cultivated grasses succeed well. The apple and the pear tree require fostering, and southern expos- ure to bring fruit in perfection. The peach tree has still more the habits and the fragile delicacy of a southern stranger, and requires a sheltered declivity, with a southern exposure, to succeed at all. Five months in the year may be said to belong to the dominion of winter. For that length of time the cattle require shelter in the severe weather, and the still waters remain frozen. The next climate includes the opposite states of Missouri and Illinois, in their whole extent, or the country between 41° and 37°. Cattle, though much benefitted by sheltering, and often needing it, seldom receive it. It is not so favorable for cultivated grasses, as the preceding region. Gourd seed corn is the only kind extensively planted. The winter com- mences with January, and ends with the second week in Febmary. The ice, in the still waters, after that time thaws. Wheat, the inhabitant of a variety of climates, is at home, as a native, in this. The persimon and the pawpaw are found in its whole extent. It is the favored region of the apple, the pear and the peach tree. Snows neither fall deep, nor lie long. The Irish potatoe succeeds to a certain extent, but not as well, as in the former climate; but this disadvantage is supplied by the sweet potatoe, which though not at home in this climate, with a little care in the culti- vation, flourishes. The increased ten)perature of March and April, and the subsequent grandeur of vegetation indicate an approach towards a southern climate. The next climate extends from 37° to 31. Below 35°, in the rich allu- vial soils, the apple tree begins to fail in bringing its fmit to perfection. We have never tasted apples worth eating, raised much below New Mad- rid. Cotton, between this point and 33°,' is raised, in favorable positions, 5 i I 1 ■3i^.- 34 MifiSTssipn VAT.r.rv. < ( ' for home consumption; but is seldom lo b<; ileixjnikil upon for n crop. Below 33° commences the proper climate for cotton, nnd it is the staple nrticle of cultivation. Festoons of long moss lianrr from the trees, and darken the forests. The palmetto ^ives to the low alluvial grounds a grand and striking verdure. The muscadine grape, strongly designating climate, is first found here. — Laurel trees become common in the forest, retaining their foliage and their verdure through the winter. Wheat is no longer seen, as an article of cultivation. The fig tree brings its fruit to full maturity. Below this climate, to the gulf, is the region of the sugar cane and the sweet orange tree. It would be, if it were cultivated, the region of the olive. Snow is no longer seen to fall, except a few flakes in the coldest Btorms. The streams are never frozen. Winter is only marked by nights of white frosts, and days of northwest winds, which seldom last longer than three days in succession, and are •")llowcd by south winds and warm days. The trees are generally in leai 1 y the middle of February, and always by the first of March. Bats am hovering in the air during the night. Fireflies are seen by the middle of February. Early in March the forests are in blossom. The delightful white flowers of the cornus Jlorida, and the brilliant red tufts of the Redbud, or cercis canadensis^ are unfolded. The margins of the creeks and streams are perfumed with the meadow pink, or honeysuckle, yellow jessamine, and other fra- grant flowers. During almost every night a thunder storm occurs. Cotton and corn are planted from March to July. In these regions the summers are uniformly hot, although there are days, when the mercury rises as high in New England, as in Louisiana. The heat, however, is more uniform and sustained, commences much earlier, and contin- ues later. From February to September, thunder storms ^are com- mon, often accompanied with severe thunder, and sometimes with gales, or tornadoes, in which the trees of the forest are prostrated in every direction, and the tract of country, which is covered with these fallen trees, is called a ' hurricane.' The depressing influence of the summer heat results from its long continuance, and equable and unre- mitting tenor, rather than from the intensity of its ardor at any given time. It must, however, be admitted, that at all times the unclouded radiance of the vertical sun of this climate is extremely oppressive. Such are the summers and autumns of the southern division of this valley. The winters, in the whole extent of the country, are variable, passing rapidly from warm to cold, and the reverse. Near the Mississippi, and where there is little to vary the general direction of the winds, they ordi- narily blow three or four days from the north. In the northern and middle regions, the conseqiience is cold weather, frost, more or less severe, and J I UlSKAHtS, 35 ion for a crop. t is the staple he trees, and vial grounds a ly designating in the forest, Wheat is no igs its fruit to cane and the region of the in the coldest •ked by nights m last longer ids and warm i'ebruary, and ir during the larly in Marcli of the cornus s canadensis^ are perfumed and other fra- torm occurs. le regions the the mercury eat, however, and contin- ns ^are com- letimes with prostrated in d with these uence of the le and unre- al any given e unclouded y oppressive, of this valley, able, passing ssissippi, and ds, they ordi- n and middle IS severe, and i-*\ perhaps blurin, with siiuw and s-lwf. Duriiit,' these dnv^ '^^^ uvem ••„ covered with ice. 'I'lie opposite breeze alternates. 'l'li< is imm*^!* utely a bland and rolnxing feeling in the atmosphere. It becwfnes warm; and the rf^d-birda aiiig in these duyy, in January and February, as tar north us Prairie du Chien. Tiiesc abrupt and freciucnt transitions can hardly fail to have an unfavorable influence upon health. From 40° to .*J()° the rivers almost invariably fnie/e, for a longer Scioto were the graves of the first settlers. They have lo ip since hccn hron^'ht into cultivation, and have lost their character for insnluhrity. A tluMisand places in the West, which were selected as residences by the first immigrants, on account of their fertility, and which were at lirst rejiarded as haunts of disease and mortality, have now a character tor salubrity. On the lower courses of the Ohio, the Wabash, the Tennessee, the Mississippi, and its southern tril)Utaries, — in short, wherever the bottoms are wide, the forests deep, the surface level, and slopinj,' back from the river, the vegetation rank — wherever the rivers overflow, and leave stag- nant waters, that areoidy carried ofVby evivporation— wherever there are ponds and lagoons in the bottoms, to catch and retain the rains and the overflow, it may be assumed, as a general maxim, that such positions will be unhealthy; and more or less so, as more or less of these circum- stances concur. Wherever these causes of disease exist, there is no part of this valley, which has not a summer of sufficient heat and duration, to quicken these causes into fatal action. The very rich and extensive alluvial prairies of the upper Mississippi, and of the Illinois, which are covered with a prodigious growth of grass and weeds, generally contain marshy basins, small lakes and plashes, ivhere the water from the blufis and the high lands is caught and retained. They will ordinarily prove unhealthy, — some think, more so, than the timbered country, — until these reservoirs of stagnant waters are all drained, and the surplus vegetation is burned off, or otherwise removed by the progress of vegetation. These places strike the eye delightfully, and their openness, and exposure to be swept by the winds, seem to pre- clude them from the chance of sickliness. Their extraordinary fertility, and their being at once ready for the plough, hold out allurements to immigrants. But there appears to be in the great plan of Providence a scale, in which the advantages and disadvantages of human condition are balanced. — Where the lands are extremely fertile, it seems to be appended to them, as a drawback to that advantage, that they are gener- ally sickly. Immigrants have scarcely ever paused long enough, or taken sufficient elements into the calculation, in selecting their residence, with a view to its salubrity. When the choice is to be made, they are often encumbered with families, and generally feel stinted both in time and money, and are in a hurry to commence operations for the provision of tlieir families. They are apt to give too little weight to the most important motive of i 4 I 1- s -1 ir imheami:h. 37 pinff bayous, heir fertility, re the points lliej^nives of » cultivation, places in the migrants, on lis JKiunts of nnessee, the the bottoms ick from the [\ leave stag- ver tliere are ains and the ch positions hese circum- therc is no tnd duration, Mississippi, wth of grass and plashes, md retained. so, than the tera are all ^ise removed delightfully, seem to pre- ary fertility, irements to rovidence a n condition eems to be y are gener- en sufficient th a view to encumbered ney, and are cir famtlies, it motive of i j»J|, which ought to dotermino their election. A drop bottom, afcrtilo Koil, a position on tlu^ mar^'iu of a boutable or navigable stream; theso nn- apt to lie till! (l(!tormiiiitig elements of their choice. The heavy forest is levelled. A thousand trees moulder, about the cabbl. TIk) stngnant waters, that, while slnehled from the action of the sui by the forest, had remained comparatively innoxious, exposrd now to tlio burning rays of the sun, and renderv'd more deleterious by b(!ing filled with trunks and branchesof decaying trees, and all kinds of ptUtid vege- tiitioM, become laboratories of miasm, and emit ou every side, the seeds of di.sease. — When we know, that such have biieii precisely the circum- stances, in which a great portion of the iiiunigrants to the western country have fixed themselves in open cabins, that drink in the humid atmosphere of the night, through a hundred crevices, in a new anerry. There arc said to be two species in Lie country; the white, and the black. Wo have never seen the white indigenous; but .have so often lieard it asserted to exist, as a native, that we are compelled to credit it. — The common nudberry is the black, and it is found in every part of the valley, that we liave seen. In some places, it constitutes no inconsiderable proportion of the timber. We have seen whole groves of small and young trees, apparently in tiie right stage to be useful for feeding the silk worm. Experience has demonstrated, that the worm thrives on these leaves, and that the product is of good quality. The wide dillusion, and the great prevalence of the mulberry, the general • temperature of tjjc valley, and the condition and habits of the people, clearly indicate to them, that this country ought to devote itself exten- sively to the making of silk. » j;^:., : Jn tliis country of forests, and where there are such numbers and varieties of trees, wc might select many other interesting ones for de^ scription ; perhaps sonic of them more so, than those, which we have here attempted to describe. The necessary brevity of our limits forbids our enlarging. From Michaux we learn, that our trees are larger, taller, rmd more of them useful for timber, than those of Europe. The forest * •"• , , 7 % MISMISmiMM VAM.IJV. has as a general i>liy8ioffiioiiiy,;m itspcctdf luxniTiiicOjwIiiclidisrriiniimtc.s it to the iiu)8t HU|ierfi(ial oljscrvor, fnuii lliat on the ollici uido of tlio mountains. W(» may add, that the vari(>lic'S ot* tiros of the same class appear to be more niiincroiis. We apprehend, that most of the trees of that region are found here, uhiU^ a nimilxroftlio Irors hero are peculiar to tliis valley. Trees of the name clasn lieie are inferior to those, that are there, for the same uses, as fiinl)er. They arc leas tough, elastic and durable. Wo may add, that the pjno forests of the south contain count- less millions of tall und straight pines, and would furnish, without sensible diminution, masts and spars for all the navies in the world. Vines AND CiiEEiTRs. The common grapevine, vith syhrstris, is diffused through all the climates. Nothing is so familiar to the eye of a traveller in this country, as soon as ho enters on the richer lands, as to see vines, often of a prodigious size, that are perpendicularly attached at the top branches, sixty or eighty feet from tiie ground; and at a great lateral distance from the tnmk of the tree. It is a standing puzzle to a young man, first brought into tlioso woods, to task his ingenuity, by putting him to account for the manner,' in whicli a vine, perhaps nearly of the size of the human body, lias been able to roar itself to such a height. There can be, however, no donl>i, that the vine in this case is coeval with the tree; that the tree, as it grew, roared the vine; and that the vino receded from the trunk, with tlic projection of the lateral branches, until, in the lapse of time, this singular ai)pcarancc is presented. In many places, half the trees in a Ijottom are covered with those vines. In the deep forests, on the liills, in the barrens, in tiie hazle prairies, and in the pine woods, every form and size of the grape vino presents itself. Wc presume, there is no scientific and ceuiplete description and arrangement of these vines. The most obvious ])' ipular division follows. Winter grape, vitishycmaUs. Tins is the large vine, that so generally clings to the trees in the alluvial fore i<. The leaves are large, and of a fine rich green; intermediate, between tlie size of the leaves of the cultivated grape, and the fox grape. They elimb to the top of the highest trees of the forest. Probably, not more tlian one in fifty of them bears any fruit at all. The fruit, when produced, is a small circular berry, not unlike the wild black cherry. It is nustcrc, sour and unpleasant, until it hag been melldwed by the frosts oi winter. But it is said, when fermented by thqpe, who have experience in the practice, to make a tolerable wine. Summer grape, ivVJsccsA/r./. We iiave never seen it iii deep bottoms. It is found on the rolling barrens, and the hazle priarics. It has a larger leaf, than the former vine; and the wood of the vine is finely colored of * ■(■St. t VINKH AM) t UliEl'tns. 61 luliHcriininatcs ci BJdo ol' llio the siimo class of the trees of 3 nropeciilitirto those, llmt arc i^rh, elastic and contain count- irnish, without tlie world. h ftyh'cstris, is r to the eye of a :her lands, as to cularly attached ; find at a great ding puzzle to a is ingenuity, by (crhaps nearly of to such a height, is case is coeval ind that the vino branches, until, ntcd. In many 3 vines. In the iries, and in the 3nts itself. Wc ind arrangement ws. . lat so generally rge, and of a fine of the cultivated highest trees of 1 bears any fruit jerry, not unlike lant, until it has when fermented make a tolerable n deep bottoms. It has a larger finely colored of n bliif'ish purple. Tin; grnpc is luovv tliaii twice the size of the winter gnipc, is ripr in the lirst month in iiutiuiiiii iiiid wlrn matured under the i'lill iiillueiicc of the sun, is ii picisant fruil. it grows in the greatest iilumdiincc; l)ut is too (hy a gmpc to lu' picsscd for wine. June grape, rith rcnidli.'i. 'I'his is a small, sweet griipe, found on the islimds of the upper Mississip|)i iind Illinois, that ripens in June. Wo have seen the vint;; but have never lasted the fruit. It is said to be the grnpe, of which the French, in the early periods of their establishment in this country, used to make win*-. Various animals prey upon it; and it has almost disappeared from (he eotuilry. Parsley leavoil water grape, ritin aqiuUica. We have never seen this vine in bearing. Fox grape, r/yW.v ripuriii, is of the same size, form and ({uality with the same s[)ecie3 on the east side of the mountains. It is very uncommon. Muscadine grape, rifit rcrnico/id. 'VWu vine strongly designates climate. It is t^eldom s(;en north of JJP Soulli of that it becomes abundant. It is found in the decpalluvial forests clinging to the tall trees. The vine is smooth, and of a lino olive green ; and the leaves are smaller, than those of the cultivated grape. The Iruit grows in more sparse clusters, than those of other grapes. Like other fruits, they fall as they ripen, and furnish a rich treat to bears, and other animals, that feed on tbem. The grape is of the size of a plund^; of a fine, purple black; witli a, thick, tough skin, tasting not unlike the rind of an orange. The pulp is deliciously sweet, but is rei)uled unwholesome. Pine woods grape. In ignorance of its proper designation, we shall call it vitls hinnilior from its habit of creeping on the ground. It is agreed, that there arc varieties of this fine grape, which from the frequent burning of the pine woods, is becoming uncommon. It is sur- prising, how little curiosity has been excited, even where it grows, by this rich fruit. It has a slender, blueish purple vine, that runs on the nround among the grass. It ripens in the month of June; is large cone shaped, transparent, with four .seeds, reddish purple; and is a fine fruit for eating. On the sandy plains at the sources of Arkansas and red river, the gen- tlemen of Long's expedition concur with hunters and travellers, in relating that they found large tracts of sand plain, from which grew a grape, which, we infer from the description, to bo of the same species of the pine woods grape. They have described the clusters to be large and deli- cious; and that the sand, drifting about them, covers up tlie redundant vegetation, performing the best operation of pruning on the vine. The sun, too, strongly reflected from a surface of sand, must have a powerful influence to mature them. It is posssible, that some of the admirationi m MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. which has been felt, in scoinf^ such sterile tracts covered with these abundant and rich chisters, and the high zest, with which they were devoured, may have been owino' to the surprise of linding such a phe- nomenon in contrast with a white and moving sand, and eating the fruit under associations created by hunger and tliirst. The universal diffusion of such numbers and varieties of the vine would seem to indicate this valley to possess a natural aptitude for the cultivation of the vine. It would be an experiment, it would appear, well worth the trial, to engraft or bud every variety of the cultivated grape on the stocks of each of these native varieties. It is possible, that the exotics might thus be at once acclimated; and it is not unlikely, that changes might be produced in them favorable to their enduring the climate, and to their flavors and vinous properties, Bignonia radicans is a creeper, beautiful for its foliage and flowers. It has a vine of a grayish white color, and long and delicate spike shaped leaves in alternate sets. It climbs the largest trees in preference, mounts to their summits, and displays a profusion of large, trumpet shaped flowers, of flame color. Planted near a house, in two or three seasons a single vine will cover a roof, throwing its fibrous and parasitic roots so strongly under the shingles, as to detach them from the roof. I\7. There are varieties of this creeper. Every traveller in the rich alluvions has been impressed with the spectacles exhibited there, of the thousands of large and lofty columns of the cotton wood, wreathed from the ground to the branches with an architectural drapery of this deep verdure. We have seen huge trunks of dead trees so ornamented. It is one of those charms of nature, that never tire on the eye. It Ls thus, that nature ornaments the pillars of her great temple, to fit it to inspire delight and adoration in the solitary worshipper. Supple-jack. We have first remarked this creeper in about latitude 35° The vine resembles that of the muscadine grape; but the olive color is deeper. It is well known to attach itself so strongly to the shrub it entwines, as to cause those curious spiral curves and inner flattenings, that give its singularity and value to the supple-jack cane. The foliage of the vine is an exact copy in miniature of that of the China tree. Ths richness of its verdure, the impervious thickness of its dark green foliage, and the profusion of deep black berries witl) which it is covered, would render it a beautiful creeper with which to cover a pavilion, or a piazza. There is a creeper, which we have not seen noticed by travellers or botanists, and which, indeed, we have not often seen ourselves, and then only on the margin of the Mississippi, between New Madrid and mouth of the Arkansas. Its vine and foliacfe somewhat resemble ige I *■ # % ^^ '?§.; VINES AND CREEPERS. 53 red with these ?l»ch they were ng such a phe- ealing the fruit ies of the vine iptitudefor the aid appear, well tivated grape on that the exotics y, that changes he climate, and \20 and flowers, ate spike shaped iference, mounts trumpet shaped r three seasons a parasitic roots so roof. eller in the rich hibited there, of wood, wreathed drapery of this so ornamented. the eye. It is ample, to fit it ipper. about latitude le; but the olive strongly to the urves and inner upple-jack cane. of that of the MIS thickness of ck berries with per with which 3d by travellers ourselves, and «4ew Madrid and ewhal resemble tliose of the supple-jack. Wc never saw it climbing slnubs more than ten feet in height. The flowers were long and rich tufted wreaths, on small, flexile, twiny stems, and much resembling the purple blossoms of the pea. They were gathered for the garnishing of the chimney places of the cabins; and we have seen no flowers, that ex- ceeded them in splendor and beauty. The rich alluvial districts of the lower country of the Mississippi and its tributaries are tangled with creepers, of various kinds, foliage and forms. Some of them are annual, and some perennial. Many of them, as far as our knowledge extends, are non-descripts. Cane, arundo gigantea, vel miegia macrospcrma. —^ome assert that, the low and bastard cane and the tall reed cane are the same species, and ditfcr only in size and height. Others, and it is the prevalent opinion, assert, that they are varieties. Every one has seen this reed in the form, in which it is used for angling rods. It grows on the lower courses of the Mississippi, Arkansas and Red river, from fifteen to thirty feet in height. We have seen some, in these rich soils, that would almost vie in size with the bamboo. The leaves are of a beautiful green — long, narrow and dagger shaped, not unlike those of Egyptian millet. It grows in equidis- tant joints, perfectly strait, almost a compact mass; and to us, in winter especially, is the richest looking vegetation, that we have ever seen. The smallest sparrow would find it difficult to fly among it; and to see its ten thousand stems, rising almost contiguous to each other, and to look at the impervious roof of verdure, which it forms at its top, it has the aspect of being a solid layer of vegetation. A man could not make three miles in a day through a tluck cane brake. It is the chosen resort of bears and panthers, which break it down, and make their way into it, as a retreat from man. It indicates a dry soil, above the inundation, and of the richest character. The ground is never in better preparation for maize, than after this prodigious mass of vegetation is first cut down, and burned. Wiien the cane has been cut, and is so dried, as that it will burn, it is an amusement of holiday to the negroes, to set fire to a cane brake, thus prepared. The rarefied air in the hollow compartments of the cane bursts them with a report, not much inferior to a discharge of musquetry; and the burning of a cane brake makes a noise as of a conflicting army, in which thousands of muskets are continually discjiarging. This beautiful vege- ble is generally asserted to have a life of five years, at the end of which period, if it has grown undisturbed, it produces an abundant crop of seed, with heads very like those of broom corn. The seeds are farinace- ous, and said to be not much inferior to wlieat, for which the Indians; and occasionally the first settlers, have substituted it. No prospect so m 54 MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. impressively shows the exuberant prodigality of nature, as a thick cano brake. Nothing affords sucli a rich and perennial range for cattle, sheep and horses. The butter, tliat is made from the cane pastures of this region, is of the finest kind. Tiie sued easily vegetates in any rich soil. It rises from the ground, like t'lo ricliost asparagus, with a large succulent stem ; and it grows six feel high, before this succulency and tenderness harden to wood. No other vegetable furnishes a fodder so rich, or abund- ant; nor, in our view, does any other agricultural project so strongly call for a trial, as the annual sowing of cane, in regions too far north for it to survive the winter. We suppose, this would be in latitude 39°. Gooseberry. All its varieties are seen indigenous in all parts of this valley. It grows to a great height and size in the middle regions, and covers itself with fruit. We have seen in Missouri h gooseberry liedge, of a height, compactness and thorny imperviousnesfi, to turn all kinds of cattle. It would have the advantage of attaining its full size in three or four years. ^ «^ Privet. This beautiful ornamental shrub, too well known to need description, is indigenous to various parts of the valley. When cln^--dy it forms a compact wall of verdure, like the box, used for the . purposes at the north. Hazle bush. Immense tracts of the prairies are covered with this bush; and the nuts arc fine and abundant. The whortleberry is not so common, as in the Atlantic country; but, where it does grow, is of great size. They are found in great abundance, and in full perfection, at the bases of the flint knobs, in the St. Francis country, and along the upper courses of White river. We have seldom seen the red raspberry ; but it is said to grow of fine size and flavor, from the middle to the northern regions of the valley. Blackberries, high and creeping, are found in prodigious abundance? from the north to the south. The prairies, in many places, in the season, are red with fine strawberries. For the rest, the fruit l)earing shrubs and plants do not materially differ from those of the Atlantic country. With the exception of the strawberry and blackberry, they are not so common here, as there. Herbs, Grasses and Flowering Plants, The universal, indigenous grass of this country, in all its climates and extent, covering the millions of acres of the prairies, is what is commonly called prairie grass, j^oa pratcnsis. It grows equally in the forests and barrens, wherever there is an interval, sufficiently unshaded to admit its growth. — It is tall, coarse, and full of seeds at tlic top; and when ripe, is rather too wiry for fodder. It is cut for that purpose in September. If it were cut % I 1 SL OF On.VSSES AND PLANTS. 55 IS a thick cane )r cattle, sheep astures of this n any rich soil, arge succulent ind tenderness rich, or abund- io strongly call far north for it ude 39°. 11 parts of this middle regions, i Fi gooseberry esfi, to turn all ing its full size nown to need When clii"" id, for the ered with this country; but, eat abundance, the St. Francis to grow of fine f the valley, •us abundance? red with fine not materially cception of the as there, sal, indigenous ng the millions iric grass, />o« wherever there th.— It is tall, ather too wiry If it were cut '.11 1 earlier, and before it hud lost its succulence and tenderness, it would, probably, be excellent fodder. As it is, the prairies yield inexhaustible quantities; and the towns and villages in the prairie regions are copious- ly supplied. When young, and before it has thrown up its stems, it re- sembles wheat in appearance. We have seen cattle, turned into the wheat fields in the spring, to eat down the redundant growth of wheat, feed on the grass along the margins of the fields in preference to tho wheat. The only grass, that yields a fine, soft sward, is called blue grass, and is not unlike the common spear grass of New England. We are not satisfied, whether it be indigenous, or not. We have constantly observed it growing about deserted houses, and Indian villages. On the upper prairies of Illinois, it is said in many places to be displacing the prairie grass. It seems to be, like the robin-redbreast, attached to the abodes of civilized man. . " • We have recently read, that in the wet prairies of Illinois and Indiana,, the fowl meadow grass of New England. was growing in abundance. Whether this be fact, or not, whoever would introduce this valuable grass to notice in the wet prairies of the West would be a benefactor to that region. The rush, cquisctum hycmalc, grows on bottoms, in grounds of an intermediate elevation, between those of the cane brake and the deep overflow. It is found, of a humbler growth, quite to the sources of the Mississippi. But it finds its full dcvclopement between 36° and 33°^ We have travelled among tliis f vass, a perfect mat, as high as the shoulders^ Nothing can exceed tlie brilliance of its verdure, especially, when seert in winter, in contrast with the universal brown. Where it grows high and' thick, it is difficult to make way tlirough it; and it has a disagreeable' kind of rustling, which produces the sensation, that is called setting the- teeth on edge. In northern regions its tubular stock is apt to fill witte compact icicles. It is well known to be the favorite range of horses and* cattle, and is devoured by them with more greediness, than even cane.- When filled with ice, and thus swallowed, it produces a chill in the stomach of the cattle, that is apt to prove fatal. To the cattle and horse" boats, that descend the Mississippi, it is an invaluable resource. The' cattle and horses, pent up and immovable in tiiesc floating barns, for many days in succession, are turned loose, and find holiday pasture in' this rich range. Pea vine. Tliis is a small, fibrous vine, that covers the soil in the richer forest lands. It receives its name from the resemblance of it* leaves and flowers to those of the cultivated pea. It is a rich and almost universal forest range for cattle; but when once eaten down, is not apt M, i>" -Ml 88 MISSISSIITI VALLEY. to renew itself. Of course, it disappears in the vicinily of compact population. Swamp grass. This grass is found in low, wet and miry swamps, on hassocks elevated above the water. It is of the brightest verdure, remaining green through tlio frosts of winter. It seems to be the same grass, which grows in boggy meadows in New England. Its sharp edges, when drawn rapidly tluough the fingers, cut them. In the middle regions of the valley, cattle are driven to these swamps, to subsist through the winter. Wild rice, zizania aquatica, vcl fatuis avena. By the French, follcs avoines. By the Indians, mcnomcnc. It is found in the greatest abund- ance on the marshy margins of the northern lakes, and in the plashy waters on the upper courses of the Mississijipi. It grows in those regions on a vast extent of country. It is there, that the millions of migrating water fowls fatten, before they take their autumnal migration to the south. It is there, too, that the northern savages, and the Canadian traders and hunters, find their annual supplies of grain. But for this resource, they could hardly exist. It is a tall, tubular, reedy, water plant, Hot unlike the bastard cane of the southern countries. It very accurate- ly resembles the cane grass of the swamps and Savannas on the gulf of Mexico. It springs up from waters of six or seven feet in depth, where the bottom is soft and muddy. It rises nearly as high above the water. Its leaves and spikes, though much larger, resemble those of oats, from which the French give it its name. Its culm is jointed, as large as the little finger; leaves broad, and linear, panicle more than a foot in length; the lower branches with spreading barren flowers, the upper with fertile Rnd erect ones. The seeds are blackish, smooth narrow, cylindrical, about three quarters of an inch long, deciduous. It is said to have been discovered in the brooks of Massachusetts. When it is intended to be preserved for grain, the spikes arc bound together, to preserve them from the ravages of birds and water fowls, that prey upon them in immense numbers. It thus has a chance to ripen. At the season for gathering it, canoes are rowed among the grain. A blanket is spread upon them, and the grain is beaten upon the blankets. It is, perhaps, of all the cerea- lia, except maize, the most prolific. It is astonishing, amidst all our eager and multiplied agricultural researches, that so little attention has been bestowed upon this interesting and valuable grain. It has scarcely been known, except by Canadian hunters and savages, that such a grain, the resource of a vast extent of country, existed. It surely ought to be ascertained if the drowned lands of the Atlantic country, and the immense marshes and stagnant lakes of the south, will grow it. It is a mistake, that it is found only in the northern regions of this valley. It grows in grain, MEDICINAL PLANTS. 57 perfection on the lakes about Natchitoches, south of 32°; ahd might, probably, be cultivated in all climates of the valley. Though a hardy plant, it is subject to some of tlic accidents, that cause failure of the other grains. The grain has a long, slender hull, much resembling that of oats, except that it is longer and darker. In detaching this hull, the Indians use a process of drying, that, probably, in most instances destroys its germinating principle. Those, who have found this grain unpleasant, have, perhaps, eaten it, when smoked, and badly prepared. There is, probably, the same difference in quality, too, as m other grains. The grain, that we have eaten, was as white, as the common rice. Puddings made of it tasted to us, like those made of sago. Palmetto, chenuBrops latanier. This is a perennial plant, strongly marking climate. It conmiences in the same regions with long moss, — that is to say, about 33°. It throws up from a large root, so tough as to be cut with difficulty by an axe, and hard to be eradicated from the soil, large, fan shaped palms, of the most striking and vivid verdure, and ribbed with wonderful exactness. It indicates a deep swampy soil, and grows six feet in height. — The infallible index of swampy, and southern climate, and having no resemblance to any plant, seen at the north, its foreign aspect, and its deep green unchanged by winter, when first seen by the immigrant from the north, with a surprise connected with rather unpleas- ant associations, strongly reminds him, that he is a stranger, and in a new country. It is used by the savages, and the poorer Creoles, as thatch for their cabins; and from the tender shoots of the season, properly prepared, a very useful kind of summer hats, called palmetto hats, is manu- factured. Medicinal Plants. On this head, but little is yet known of this country; and that little, except the most obvious points, falls within the proper limits of description by a physician. In a climate so various, a soil so prolific, and a flora so immense, as that of the prairies, where such an infinite vanety of plants and flowers is renewed, and perishes every season, and in a country so fresh, it may be readily conceived, that the medicinal properties of but very few of the plants have been sufficiently experimented. Most of the medicinal plants of the Atlantic country are found here; and many, that are peculiar to this region. Varieties of the hop are natives of the country ; and the hazle prairies have their clumps of hazle bushes often surmounted with the beautiful wreathings of the clusters of the common hop. Virginia snake root; a species of ipecacuanna, called Indian physic; American columbo; frasera Caroliniensis, a plant growing six feet high, and covering itself with brilliant flowers; thoroughwort, upatorium 8 )■*»•■ -^ 66 MISSISSIPPI VAU.EY. '%■• I pcrfoliatum; ginscnjj; all the varieties of tlic mints; blood root, satigui- nana Canadcnsifi; — tliosc plants arc commmon, and widely difPnsed. Miiy api)\G, 'podoplii/lhnii prlfcifiniu is a hoautifnl plant, thai completely covers the ground, wlu're it grows, with tlio frosliest and most cheering verdure of spring. Tl has a handsome while blossom, and bears a fruit of the appearance and taste of a lemon. Its root is a powerful cathartic, and has been successfully introduced into medicine as a substitute for jalap. Seneka, j)oh/gala scnclca; American senna, cassia, manlandica; poke weed, phi/tollacca dccandria, Oswc lore hIiouM<'ih. TIk y liavo siiiiill iiihI nliort lioriiH, mil iiior(> than i'oiir or five inrlirH in Ictii^'tli, niul, roinpiiml willi \V(<(l alMo^M'tlirr, liavo rnllirr a nava^r and nntlandisli a|)|M>arinc(<. Hnt, in firl, llicy t\w tlio tumw mild atiinial witli tlirdoinrMlir caMlc; arr easily tainrd and dnincH- ficafrd; and llic animals, lliaf spring' fimn the mixliin; of lirri'ds, aro Haid tt> unite tlir valuahic! pr<)|M'ili('s ol' Itotli. Their lieef is generally preferred to that of thi< domestic ox. The ran<^'e of this animal us(mI to oxtemlover all the valley. The oyes of the patriarchal ' residonlerH,' who ilrnt fixed themselves in the iinhrokeii wilderness, as they relate, liow they us«'d to sec countless iiumlM-rs of thesi- animals scouring the thickets, hri^'hteii in tlio n-lation, and view the pnsent ord<'r of thin;js, wliith havo driven these animals I'ar to tla^ wi'sf, with llu! re;,frelH of liimti'rs. TIk' whites, wln>i»'ver they have fixed tliemselves, have waijed upon tlieiri a^rratuitous war of exterminatinn; and these iimoceiil, useful and iiolth^ animals instinctively lly their footstt^ps. They remain in the vicinity of the sava^M's, who kill no more of them, than Huhsistf'iice or profit reipiires. The white hunters have destroyed them for their ton^'iies only. They still ranjje from Reui'«*(l willi wliirli K(*l)iiiHttii Oiikoc^h Hojoiirn on Ins inlaiKl was hut a nine |mslor.il rxpriii't-ni. Tliry iuriiiHli iin iliiproM- n'lw proof tliat llicn' in no ri(uil(> of UW', iritriiiHir.ally so n-pnlHivo and paiiit'iil, 1)1)1 man may linuiiK' kosik iIimI to it liy liahit. A lotirly jmnlur, cast upon (Itr clcmriils, witli iitiiliiii^' hut prairies ami mountains in view, u'illionl l)r(!a -tand an oh|< of the while man and thr heads, or iiioccnsins; and we have never seen a tUt;il caHO. We read, indeed, of a most traffirid occur rence, more horrible in the relation, th'in tb;' iinrient tiriion of l.aocoon An immigrant family inndverteiitly fixed tiicir eiliin on the slielvin^i declivity of a lod<,'0, that proved a den of ratllesMid<;('s. Wann'-d by \\») first fire on thelicarlh of the cabin, the terrible reptih.s issued in innnbers, and of course in rage, by ni;,'ht into the room, where the whole family slept. As happens in those cases, some slept on the floor, and some in beds. The reptiles spread in every part of the room, and mounted on every bed. Children were stun*,' in the arms of their parents, and in each other's arms. Imaijinalion dares not dwell on the horrors of .surli a scene. Mo.^t of tlie family were bitlcn to (]e:ith; and those, who escaped, findinf,' the whole cabin oeciii)i(,'d by these horrid tennnls, hissing, and shaking their rattles, tied from the bonne by boating olf the covering of the roof, and escaping in that direction. It would be impossible to enumerate all the remedies, that arc pro- scribed here, for the bite of these reptiles. Tt is a received maxim, that the application of volatile alkali, internally, and to the wound, neutralizes the poison, and is a certain cure. Of harmlcGS serpents, this country has the usual varieties, — as tht; green, garter, chicken, and coach-whip snakes. . We have often seen the glass snake, with a body of the most lustrous brilliance. A stroke across the back separates the body into a number of pieces. Each of these pieces preserves for some time the powci of loco-motion, and continues to move. The people believe, that these pieces soon meet, and unite, and become as before the separation. Bull, or prairie snake, is one of great size, and horrid appearance. It is common on the prairies, lives in holes in the ground, and runs at the passing traveller with a loud hiss; but if he stands, it instantly retreats to its hole. It is perfectly harmless; though such is its size. boldness and formidable appearance, that it is long, before the resiueiif in these regions gets over his horror of it. Lizzards, lacerta. Ugly animals of this kind are seen, in greafci or less numbers, in all the climates. They arc found under cotton loi.'.s and are dug from the rich and muddy alluvions. These last are l:izv and loathsome animals, and are called ' ground puppies.' We nevn saw any disposition in them to bite. Common small lizzards are frequent in tlie southern districts, running along the logs, and making just sucli a sound as the rattle snake, when lie gives his warning. There are varieties of small camelions. They are apparently harmless animals; though when we have caught tlietn, they showed every dispo,-;! I ¥ 'W- llKPilLLS. 77 fiori to I'i'*'- ''''"y ^^'" ''I'ioicc ill Iiilfiiii lionr lo .ill iho nilors of iIk; niisiii. (iivni serins In he llicir favorilc cdlur, mikI wlicn (»ii n ^LM'f'on tree, (lint is tlioir ^('iicril line. AVIiilc in tliin color, lli(> under pr.it of lluir neck Itcconios a hoaiilifiil scarlet. Their (liroal swells, and they emit a (jliarpiiote, like iliat. of one of tli(> lai/rer kinds of ^'rasslioppers, when j^iiiuinj,'. We ]i;ivp placed llicm on a liandkt'rcliiif, and lliey have j/radii- ally assumed all its colors. Placed on a hlack surface, they Ijeconu; brown; and they evidently snller while under this color, as is manifested by uneasy movements, and by stroii;,' and (juick j)alpitations, visible to the eye. They are very active and nimble animals, three or four inches in leiifrlh. Scori)ions arc liz/ards of a larirer class, and flatter heads. They aro animals of an nl VAI.I.KV. IVotn tlll>irlH)(li^^4, iiiil< hit in :i pirtinihr W(< willii'Hsrtl till' iliiil-i of II iii.'iii, will) kdlrd tlicill llilic liiiirs ill trii. Tlit'V lire iiol. liKr tuilni^iis, .-iinl iillii r :iin|iliiliit.;th of jaws is piddi;.'ioiis, and llicy in<' lAccrdiii^jly voracious. Tlify havr lar<,n', ivory trrlli, whit'h n)iil;iiii a ravily, siiU'M'ii iitly lar<,rc to hold a iiiiisUrt cliar^o of powjlir. lor \vlii( li piirposr tliry aro roiiiinotily used hy sportsiiirii. The animal, when .'-lain, emits an iiitoliralile smell of rniisk ; and it is nsserled. thai its head eontains a tpiantity of that driii^'. They will soiiHMimes chase ehildien, ami would overtake them, were it not lor their iiialiility to make lateral movements. Ilaviny tiunin'r oil' at ri<4;hl angles, and leaving tho animal to move lorward, under its iinpiilsi> in that (Ml, lliey ar«' hy no means so dan^,f'<' rather ohjects ol'terror iVom tln'ir ,^i/.e, stn-iiuth, and ui'lv iippearance, and iVom their larire teeth and stroiii!' j'lws, than IVom the actual injuries, which they have heeii known to inllict. TIk- femali! d(>posits a /jireat lunnher ol'eo;os, like a tortoise, in a hole on the sandhars, and leaves them to he hatched hy the ardors of the sun upon the sand. When they are hatched, the turkey hn/./ards and the parents are .said alik(Ht)pify upon them. Instinct prom|)ts tiiein for self |)reservalion to plunm* iu the watiT. The skin of llie allii^alor is valnahle fur tlio tanner. Tortoises. Tlier(> are the iisiial vari(>ties oi" (he Atlantic coiinfry. The soft slielled iiiud-lortoise of the lakes alioiit .New ()rleans, and west of the Mississippi, is said to he not miu h inferior to the W'vM. India sea turtle for the tahle. Mpicures, who are dainty in their food, consider tlio flc sii a yrea t del loacv. The lower j)art of this valley is a land of lakes, marshes and swamps; and is of <'ourse, prolilic in toads, frous, and animals of that class. The hull fro^f, nina boons rcl iiipcns. The deep notes of this annnul are heard in j^neat perfection in the swamps hack of iXew Orleans. ISIurena siren is a very sinuular animal, as far as wo know, nndescrihod by naturalists. It somewhat resemhles the lamprey, and is nearly two feet in Icniitli. It seems intermediate between tiie tisli and the lizzard riMii H, 7t) rliii^.'^. It li<'>^ *^V" ^l)'*rl \f'U^, placDl iip:ir (lit* licml. || in iiiiipluliiuiis, mill priirtr.iM'H llu- iimmI willi llir liicilily nrniuvlixli. Criiwlisli. 'rii'if.'iir ihI iiiiiiilins ofllifsr Hiiiill, (VpsIi wiifiT lolishTS r\('ry wlirrc in tlu' sliiilln-.v waliTH iiiiil low ^iomiiiIm nf this coiiiiliy. Ily |M'n<'lr:i(iii;; IIm' Icvrr (i!'lli(' Mi.«,sissi|»|ti, liny Irm- niorc linn (»iicc iii!nlr lliMSc lilll<' iHTlonlMins tliiit li.'ivc iin|i('i-n'|ililily i>nhri.rr(| to rh-viiHsrH, l>y \vliirli llir innnilHidii oriin- livrrliiis Im'cm Id iiMi|)oii tlic ciHiiitry. Ill tlif piiK' li'ii'K'iis of l''loi'iiiniilly of IJH' lorloisc ', comiiioiily cillcil w cnnj/'n'. it lias !i lai'i,'!' tiiul lliick sli<-ll and ItiiirowH to ii {.Meat (l<'|ilii in llic ^rroiind. It is ^'pi'odi^^ioiis powi'i' and siK'iiylli, Mid nsciiililcs in many n.-sprcts llic lo;.';^'<'rli<'iid luitlf. Till! irlilliyoloi.ry <»(' llic .'.miH' of McNJco and its waters, of flir Mississippi, and llic walcis west of it, and ol" llic norllicrn lakrs and llicii waters, lias lint liccn scicnlilically explored. W'r. arc aide only l(» j/ivo lliiif offlie Ohio and its waters, as explored and dcserilx-d hy IVlr. Kalin- CHipui. ^Ve leiniik, however, thai the lishcH of all the western waters ;irr very similar, ami that llie idasses of this lalilc inelndi iiiosl of I'k! lishes llial are ioiiiid in the waters oftlu- Mississippi valley. TiioHAie I''isim;s. Salmon pereli, /^rnv/ .v••■•"..";• T15r:' •. '^' *j|. Ill 80 MISSISSllTI VALLKY. Big oared aun fish, icluhdia megalotis. A lino small fish. JiCiigtIi IVotn three to ei<,'ht inches. Common in the waters of Kentucky, \\\\*^ gar namo, red belly. River bass, Icponus. Common in the Ohio and its waters, and easily taken with the hook. Pale bass, Icpovds pallida. Yellow bass. From four to ten inchcsv Streaked clieeks hpomis tnfasciata. Yellow ijcrch one of the best kinds of table fish. Length froiu one to two feet. Common in the Ohio and its waters. ' Brown bass, hpomis fi'xuolarls. Black perch. Length from one to two feet. Like tiie former a line firfii. ^ Trout buss, lepomis salmonca. Brown trout. Length from six to twenty-lour inches. Delicate and white flesh. ,. Spotted river bass, lepomis notata. Same vulgar name with the former, and commonly considered the same fish. Dillers from it in many respects. Sun fish river bass, lepomis iclifheloidcs. White bass. — Length from four to eight inches. ii> Gold ring promoxis, 2J''i^inoxis annularis. Silver perch. Length from three to six inches. Red eye, agloccntrus. Green bass. A very bcautful fish, from three to twelve inches long. White eyed barbot, pogosf.oma Icucops. Bearded siui fish. A very beautiful fish, twelve inches long, and sometimes weighs a pound. Hog fish, ctheostoma. Hog bass. Loiigth frcsm three to nine inches. Bass hog fish, ctheostoma calUura. Minny bass. Foxtail hog fish, etheosloma jiahelletta. Foxtail. Black hog fish, ctheostoma nigra. Black minny. A very small fisli. Blunt nose hog fish, etlieotitoma blcnnoidcs. A very singular lookiiif,', small fish. , . Connnon hog fisli, ctheostoma. eaprodcs. Length from two to six inches. Abdo.mi.\al Fisin:s. Ohio gold fish, dromololus chrysocolor. Ohio shad. Length from t'.vtlvr lo eighteen ijiclies. Is seen in the spring; from Cincinnati to the fidls of tlie Ohio. Spf)t(cd giz/ard, (/oro.5/()Wu/ ro/at'rt. Hickory shad. — Length oineto ^ ten inches. Ohio gold herring noiemigonus avratus. Gold herring. Length fio;n four to (>ight inches. Flesh tolerably good. False herring, hyodon. Herring. Five species. Not at all like llic herring of the Atlantic waters. Tolerable fish for the table* * J' *■; m. I i^>iil:^. 81 liCiigili :ky, YuU and easily ten inches* of the best in tlic Ohio • rom one to Voni six to ; with the 1 it in many Length from jcngth from , firom throe ;^ h. A very ound. ^ nine inches. j, m ry small fish. idar iookhig, 1 two to six color. Ohio igi in the sprinj.^ ngtij nine to Length fro:n all like the iblc» Sulino, troul. TJiirf species is foiuul on llie upj>er walerrf of tiie Mis soiiri and the Ohio. The white fish of the Juki's hits lieL>n sometimes classed in this class, :ind lias ])Oon said to he found on the liead Wiitcrs of the Wabash iind llic Mi;i:v.i. Alloth ei;4lit inches. Fine for the (able. Take 1)ie bail, like all tiiis species witli a spring. Black Irout, sal/no v'tgrcscens. R.are species. Found oji the waters of Laurel hill. Length six inches. Minny, mlnnvlus. Bait fisli. Of ihcsc diniinnlivc fisli, there aro a vast num1)or in the difforpnt waters of the Mississippi. Sixteen spe- cies have been noted on the (Jhio. Tiic '• rgd" kinds of them bear the name of shiner. (jrold head sinner, luxllus cIiri/,socephaluSf Cold chnh. Length six inches. i Kentucky shiner, h/x'ilus Kcnliiclicn^is* Tvod tail. — Fine fish bait. Yellow shiner, luxhis Intcrruptii:^. Yclh/w chu h.— -Three inches in length. Big black chub, .scmoiilua dor.s'uli.^ Big back mimiy. Length three lo six inches. Big head chub, scmotilm ccpI'ali/.% I3ig wioulh. licngth from six to ci'dit inches. Silver side fall fish, rulilus plagyrus^ Silver side. — Length f/om four to six inches. Bailing fall fish, riifihts coiiiprcssus. Length from two to four inches. Anomal fall fish, ruiilufi aiiomahs^ Length tliree inches. Red minny, ruilhis ruber , A beautiful, small, red fish, two inches ift I'Migth. Black headed flat bend.. LeiiglJi llirce inches. Ohio carp sucker. Length from one to three ft^et» Good for the table. Taken with the hook, seine or spear. Buffalo carp sucker. Found on the lower waters of the Ohio. Vul- gar name, buffalo perch. One "foot in length. One of the best fish for the table. Brown buffalo fish, rdtoafomvs Irihahis. One of tjic ])est fishes in tho weslorn waters, and foiuul in all of lliom. Leiifjth from two to three feet, and weighing from ten to thirty pounds. Black bijfialo fish, calofitoiivif vhjrr. Found in the lower waters of the Ohio and in the waters of the .Mississippi. Sometimes weighs fifty poiuuK • Olive c;irp suckef. A variety vf ihe former. Noi so good for the tabic. (,'Ommonly called c-,Yp. 82 MISSISSIPPI VALLKV. ! ; •Ul^-M Sailing mckcr^rafontomii.s' vvliftr. Skim bnck. fiOiiglli from twelve lo fifteen inches. Mud sucker, cato.'itowua xaiithopu,% Length from six to ten inchen Flesh very soft. Black faced sncker, eofosfomiis iiKlaiioi)n» JUlack suctter. Tjcngtii from four to six in,s7o/////.s' //r.r//(>.v//.s'. Coinmon sucker. Ten to twelve inches long. IJites at the liook, and is tine for the table. Big mouthed sucker, inriraNfointifi, IJrown sncker. — 'I'aken with the seine. Pittsburgh sucker, eftfo.tfomm Dmit/cfitif. Wiiite sncker. Ticngtii fifteen to twenty inches, l'\)nnd in the Ohio, neu* Piltsburglu Good for the table. Long sucker, cnfo.\'fo7nu.f cloinrafii,^ Brown sMclcer, Length fifleeii to twenty inches, Ofliicsanie n, arc circular. 'J'hey are easily taken with a hook. They re- ceive their English name from the nois(> which they make, when at rest, a noise very similar to the purring of a cat, and one of the most familiar to those, who are used to th(> w(>stern waters. Sjwtted cat fish, .s/////v/.v viaculo.siis. While cat fisli. — ^LengtJi from one to three feet. Flesh good. Blue cat fish, j^ifiirJoilm crrulcfccns, "TliQf liaTc bccu takcnj. weighinj^ about one hundred and fifty pounds* Silver cat fish, jrimchuJits ariryritn. Clammy cat fish, jumcloih/.s risnysm Clouded cat fish, ^>//;/<7()li from «no ) to five fee*, tablo. The or digging in Lwigth twa three to six m of a saw; £;| D Hre® |eet. comparison t been liiirly cribed,as bo rs ; the latter io with tliose r fish of the c»rnicr. The wlsere found fine fish have a and Florida n in the cold It is a fish of id taking h;iit oimds ft is a fine flavored, solid fish for the tnblc. No an filing can compare with that of this fish in the clear pino wood streams of the southern divisions of this country. With fisli bait, a barrel may be taken in a few hours. Cat fish of the Mississippi, fiilui'its Miff-'iisfiipplciisis', diflers considera- bly from tJiat of the Ohio. It is often taken weighing over an. hundred pounds. Buffalo of the INIississippi, huhuhia Mifisls.s'ipplcnsif}, is larger, and has a difilerent appearance from that of the Ohio. Tin7 are taken in immense quantities in the meadows and lakes of the Mississippi, and greatly resemble the Atlantic shad. Perch, jjf/'ca maculatdf^, l|, H .^ne fish^ weighing from three to* five pounds. Bar fish, pcrca anrcnfea, are taken with a liook. They go in shoals fn the southern running waters. They weigli from one to three pounds, and are beautifully striped with brown and silver. Drum, rock fish, slieep's head, &c. arc hirgc and fine fish, taken in the lakes on tlic gulf of Mexico, that arc partially mixed with salt water, and so snlinc, ai not to be potable. They correspond in size to the cod and haddock of" tiic Atlantic coiuitryj and arc among the most common fisli in the market of New Orleans. Spade, or shovel fish, plafi rostra cdcntida, a mud fish of the middle regions of the valley, found in nmddy lakes. They weigh from ten to fif'y pounds, arc without scales, and have in advance of their mouths, a smootl), bony substance, mucli resembling an apothecary's spatula, from six inches to a foot in length, and two or three inches in width. Its use, anrarently, is to turn up the mud in order to find subsistence. They an ! extremely fat, and are taken fur their oil. We have never remarked this fish in any museum, altJiough to us the most strange and whimsical looking fish, we have seen. The pike of tiiese waters is precisely the same fish, as is taken with thnt name in the Atlantic streams. A fine fisli of this species, called ph'cannmt, is taken in the Illim^is and tlic ujiper waters of the Wabash. We have seen one instance of a horribly deformed animal, apparently iruerrnediate between the class tctfiulo, and fisjies. It was in a water of tlic W;'.sliila, and we had not a fiiir opportunity to examine it. It is called to;id fish; has -a shell, like a tortoise; but has the other aspects of a fish. It is said to be sufficiently strong, to bear a man on its back; and from the account of those, who iiave examined it, this animal must be a singu- lar hfsu,? natiira'. Alligator gar, a fish, sii;i])ed ?ike a pike; but still longer, rounder and swifter. Its dart equals the flight of birds iu rapidity, ft has a long, roimd ond pointed mouth, thick set with sharp tooth. Its body is covered 86 MIRSlSSirPI VALLEY. with scales of such u texture, as to bo impeuctrahlo hy a rifle bullet, and, when dry, to make iire with steel. It is a fish of most outlandish ap|x;arance, \veineral analogy of very large rivers, it bends from north to south, and traverses no inconsiderable section of the globe. It commences in many branches, that rise, for the most part, in wild rice lakes; but it traverses no great distance, before it has become a broad stream. From its commencement, it carries a wide expanse of waters, with a current scarcely i)crceptible, along a marshy bed. At other times, its fishes are seen darling over a white sand, in waters almost a» transpa- RIVEIIS. 87 ifle bullet, outlandish s a terrible in its long ilhcd, a fur y the shark tor,— being but having rongly from liey become osc of fresh table. The ugh, coarse^ re fine. The !(1, as excel- A line, here icrc it enters lok five hun- watcr of the ^pt the trout, hy the fish of pissippi only, we treat of Mississippi scribed with elineating it noble stream hat a faithful ime respects, irrigating a lan any other :>rt«, it bends f the globe. in wild rice ■onic a broad m of waters, other times, t asftranspa- r> 4 rent as air. At other times, it is comprossed to a narrow and rapid nirrent between higii and hoary lime stone bliilVs. Having accpiired in a course, foll(twing its meanders, of three hundred miles, a width of half a mile, and htiving formed its dislinclivc <-hara('t-li the dark forests, without a fc( ling of sublimity. The hundred shores, laved by its waters; the h)ng course of its tributaries, some of which are already the abodes of cultivation, and others pursuing an immense course with(nit a solitary dwelling of civil- ized man on their banks; the muncrous tribes of savages, that now roam on its borders; the afi'ecting and imperishal)lc traces of generations, that are gone, leaving no other memorials of their existence, or materials for their history, than their tombs, thiit rise at frequent intervals ahmg its banks; the dim, but ghnious anticipations of the future; — these are suljjects of contemplation, that can not but associate themselves with the view of this river, s, It rises in high table land; though the country at its source has the aspect of a vast marshy valley. A medium of the dill'erent authorities, touching the point of its origin, gives it to be in latitude 17^ 47'. Travel- lers and authorities dill'er, too, in the name of the lake, or reservoir, where it is suppos(xl to commence. Some name Turtle lake, and some Leech lake, as its source. The truth is, that in speaking of the source of the Mississippi, the Missouri, the Nile, and otlicr great rivers, readers are only amused with fictions and names. Of a nameless number of tributaries, it would be impossil)le to say, which carried the most water or had the greatest length of course, or l)cst merited the honor of being considered the parent stream. A great number of streams, rising in the same j)latean, and interlocking with the waters of Red river, and the other streams of lake Winnipeck, unite to form the St. Peter's and the Mississippi. Dillcrcnt authorities assign to these rivers such ditlcrent names, that we should rather perplex, than instruct our readers, by putting down names, as having more authority than others. The St. Peter's, the principal upper branch of tlio Mississippi, has been scientifi- cally and faithfully explored by the gentlemen of Long's expedition. — The St. Peter's receives ten or twelve tributaries, some of them considera- \ St li f : ) K 11 88 MISSISiJil'PI VAI.KCV. ble streams, bofitrc its junction willi the Mississippi. 'Vho piiiici[);il of these iire called Spirit, Ile;iver, Yellow, Medicine, I'ed Wood, Aux Liiirds nnd Blue E:utli rivers on the west side, nnd Miiiw.dvakon'jf Jin.l Eperviei from the east. The principal river of the west ibrk of th(.' Mississippi is the river do ('orlxMii. The otiicr fork, Ix^fore its jtnu'lion witii the main nvcr, receives Deer, ^Feadow, Swan ;ind Savanna, rivers. IjcI )W Cedur and Muddy rivers, between i'P and UP, tliere are strong rapids. JJctwccii them and the falls arc Crow and Rnm rivers. With tiic common ]>ropcnsity of traveJIers to cxaffrrerate, the falls of St. Anthony, nntil very recently, have l)een much overrated. Instead of the cxtrava;:rant estimates of llic first l"'rench writers, or the fall of iil'iy feet assi Temembranccs of love and broken vows, precipitated herself and hor infants down tlie falls. Indians are always romancers, if not poets. Their traditions say, that these ill-fated beings, together with their canoo. so perished, tiiat no trace of them was seen. l>ut they suppose, that licr spirit wanders still near this spot, and that she is seen on sunny niorniii(;5. carrying her babes in the accustomed manner bound to her bosom, ami still mourning the inconstancy of her husband. Above the falls, the river lias a width of five dv six liunt^red yard?. Immediately below, it contracts to a width of two hnndretl yards; ami there is a strong rapid for a considerable distance below. Ninety milon helow the falls, and between 44° and 45°, it receives Rapid and St. Croix rivers; the former from the west, and the latter from the east. The St. Croix is reputed to have a beatable course of two lii'.ndied miles, and rises in lakes not far from the waters of lake Superior. Near 44°, from the west comes in Cannon river, a Mibutary, wliicli enters not far above the northern extremity of lake Pepin. This is nn more, than an enlargement of the river, it is a beautiful sheet of water, of some miles in length, and broadening in some places from one 1" three miles in width. Nearly ;it. its lower extremity, it receives the Chippeway from the east,with a beatable coursiT of about an hundred miles. Betweeji lake Pepin and the parallel of 13"^, come in three or '4 RIVKRS. 8J) liiiiicipal of Aux Liiirds n;l Epcrvici lississii)])! is itii tlic in:uii [>t'l )\v Cediu ds. Between ;, the falls of liisloiul of D ill! I of fifty al fall of lilt lerpcndicidiu ) willi that d!' ful spectacle , uf the most to the solcniii Is, a thrilliii,!,' acotii Iiufiuii ho had taken .•haunting tlm vsolf and iter if not poets. h their cauoo. pose, that her my niomiiiiis. :!V hosom, and iinfired yard?. (1 y;vi"(ls; anil Ninety miles and St. Croix •ast. The St. ad miles, and il'utary, wliicii 1. This is no hect of water, !S from one to : receives the It an hundred {\p in three Of four inconsiderable rivers, of which Bullalo, Tihdfand Black rivers, from •I, tlie east, are the prin('ii)al. Between VA° and 12" are I'oot, Upper laway and Yellow rivers from the west, and La Croix and Bad Axe rivers from (he e;ist. Oiiisronsin river ctmies in, from the east, al)()iit the parallel of 48°, and near iJiat very noted ()oint on ihe river, Prairie du Chien. It is one of the most considcrahle tril)utari(;s above the Missouri. It has a beata- ble course of more than two hundred miles, and interlocks by a very short ])ortage vvith Fox river, that empties into Green bay of lake Michi- «ran. Ill its |)ro,yress towards the Missi.s.sippi, this river receives nine or ten consideral)le streams. It is the licpiid hi;.diway of i)assage for the Canadian tradcMs, trappers and sava Below this river are long rapids and at low water, diflicult for large boats to ascend. A little lower on this river, on the west side, comes in tlie laway, a stream of some magnitude. Below the p:irallel of 41°, come in from the eastern side two or three inconsiderable streams^. Near 40°, on the west side, and in the state of Missouri, comes in the Des JMoines, the largest tributary from the west above tlie Missouri. It receives itself a number of considerable streams, and enters the Mississippi by a mouth one hundred and fifty yards wide. It is supposed to I'-ivc a beatable course of nearly three hundred miles; 12 00 MWSI»«irPI VALLKY. ■/' ; liii 1 A mil 1 i ^ 1 i i i 1 ffi y. 1 and it wafers a deli/rlii fill country. On flu; opposU) side, the waters, for a lon^ distanec, wliicli rise near the Mississi|)i)i, llcm intf) tlio Tllinoi;^ Between tlio Dca MoincH and the Illinois, conic in from die west flu; Wacondah, Fabian, Jaustioni, Oidiahali, or Halt river, BuMif, or Cnivrc and Dardenno rivers. Those rivers are from fifty to an lumdrcd yards wide at their mouth, and li.'ivc hoafahle coinses of some Icnylli. In latitude 31)°, comes in ihc Illinois from the (Nist, — a nohic, hroud and deep stream, nearly four hundred yards wide at its mouth, liavin tlio TllinoiH tlio west tin; r, or Ciiivn; iiidrcd yards Ml.. ii()l)l«', broad ith, luivinf,' ;i st its wliolo issippi id)ov(! )y one of it^ io Micliij/an, ns above, the isouri, wliicli, ^sissippi, and , some havu junction, inelcss sniiill 3in above, wo jthcr circinn )ortancc, that i, is the Mar- tic above tlic s moutli, and kia, that runs It is eif^hty indred inik-s, blc. On the ow St. Gcne- madc. Forty It is a con- :oal banks.— n which used ! magnificent ar tlie largest )r an hundred junction, it is river runninj; positc to the I 'U MiflHiHHippi,that we can not (expect to liixl any very important trlbutarloa to the latter river, for a considerabh; distance bolow the mouth of Ohio, on th;itside. We find, in fact, that the Yazoo is the only river, that enters iiorii the east, whicli detscrves mention as ii river of importance. Kaski- ii()iiip<'pposit(> llio moiilli of llie Missouri, llie Anioricnii boflom lerminales, ntnl the bliill's i'ome ill lo tlic river. The Miiirs'lioiuid llu; e:isf«'rii bunk of llie river llieiK(^ lo llie iiioiilh of llu; Illinois. l''roiii these liliiU's we cunhMiipliile one of the most iiii|iressiv(! and heiiiitilnl l;iiHlsca|H's in tlio Worltl. On the opposite side; the ini^rhty Missouri is seen, brinjfinj,' its turbid antl sweejiiii",' mnss of \val<'rs at rinhl angles lo llie Mississippi. The eye traees a loiiij distance of the outline of the Missouri valley, bounded on either side with an iiidistinel and hlii(> line of hills. Above It is the vast and most beautiful Manielle prairii', (lolled with <,'reeii islands of wood, and skirted at the ftirlhcst ken of the eye with hills and forests. Above you, on the same shore, is iIk; valley of llu; Illinois, itself bounded by hoary nnd ma<«;nilleent blulls of a peeiiliar eharaeler. The river brin<;s in its ereepinir waters by a deep bed, that sreins almost as strai{.'lit as a canal. You have in vi«'w the valleys and blulls of two noble streams, that join tlieir waters to llu^Mississippi. You se(Hhe Missis- sippi ehaiifjed to a turbid and sweejiin*.' stream, with jay^'ed and indent- ed banks, below you. y«)U see its ctdiii and placid waters above the Missouri. On the opposite jmiirie, there ar(! level iiu^ulows, wheat lields, corn fields, smokes asceiidinif from houses and ciibins, vast (locks of domes- tic cattle, — distinct indications of ayriculltire aiul improvement blended Tiitli the ^rand features of nature. Tliere an- iliimps of tre(>s, lakes, ponds, and flocks of sea fowl, wheeliiiif their lliiilit over them; in sliorl, whatever of grandeur, or beauty, nature can furnish IosooIIk*, audio enrapture the beholder. From the mouth of tbe Ohio, the scene shifts, and the blulls arc fionc- Vally nearest tlic eastxjrn shore; thon;i;li on that shore there are often twenty miles between them and the river. 'I'liey come (|uile in lo tlic river, which washes their bases, at the Iron banks, the Chalk banks, tlio first, second and third Chickasaw blulVs, Memiihis, the Walnut hills, Grand and Petit ^uilf, Natche/, lioflus'' heights, St. Franeisville ami Baton Uoucfo. In all this distance, blufls are only seen in one place on the west bank — the St. Francis hills. From the sources of llu; river lo the moiilli of the Missouri, the annual flood ordinarily commences in Marcli, and does not subside until the last of ]\[ay; and its medial hei<,'lit is tifleen feet. At the lowest stages, four feet of water may bt' found from the rapihi(>, the iiit'SlPl>I VALLLV. Uic Mississippi forcsl into tlu; mouth of White livtM'. lie nsccnds Ihnf river a few miles, and hy iho (iiaiid Cut oil' m()\(S down ihc forest into the Arkansas. From that river lie finds many hayons, which communi- cate readily with Washita ano, nn»l occupy llic highosl part tloin.«. 'I'lu' ^.Ti-alcr <»>iii(»:ir:iliv(! ele- vation on llio banks nol\\itlisl:iii(liM;,', v.t! Iiavi- nol the ^lii^liUvt douhf, lliat tlio path of iho rivers is, in I'arf, llie deejicst pari of llieir I)a?in, and that the heil of* the river is unil'ovmly lower, iJian the lf>\vest point of the alluvion nt the base of the Miillk One of the most striking: peculiarities of this river, nnd of all its lower tributaries, has not often be(;n a tiieme of observation, in describin*,' it. It is the uniformity of its meand(Ms, called in the phrase of the country, 'points and bends.' In many instances these ciu'ves are (h^srribed with a precision, with wliich they would hav(' been marked oil' by tlu; sweep ofa compass. The river sweeps round, perhaps, tliehalfofa circle, and is precipitated from the point, in a current ropelled iVoni tlio [toint of that cnrve, and then Hwe«'p u tsiniiliir oni* on the opposite shon;. Tlu'se demonstrations litivt; appcaretl unsatisfactory to ns. It lias always seonu'd to ns, that in a tender and alluvial soil, i>nd nndcr similar circnmstancos, a m(»vinjf mass of water, cnttin*,' a course for itself, would lake the direction of a ri;,dit line. Tho connnon solution cr>rtaiidy is not the just one, that is tu say, tiiat tho river fnuls an ohstacle, which (iives it a dia '^, 108 Mlf>SIH<l from hliilV to hlulT. In common with most of its j^'niat Iriliiilarics, it l)roii(I»'ri8 an it iiscdndH, lioinf^, ns wo haw n'lnnrkrd, wider idiovc the mouth of llio MiHsouri, with scarce a tenth of its wat<>r, than it in nt New OrlcaiiH. in tlio Hnrnn manner^ Arkniisas tind Rt-d rivrr aro wider a thousand miles from their mouth, tli:in they aro at that point. Ah the western rivers approach their dchouchCf and increase their volume of water, they narrow, and deepen tlicir rliannel. T.NniAXs, on AnonioiNAL iMiAnrr.wTs. Details of the Indians, that itelon^' to the states and territories of this valley, will naturally ho given under the accounts of them. — We mean here to hriniy, if it may be, into one llir siicll of a turtoisc. Itn cnppcr colored nose is Hcrn |M'(>piiif^ from this r,'«^M\ like lli.il of n tortoi<(i IVoiu iis sIkII; iind cvni tliu iidliiiH nccm to feel, tlint cryin? in to no piirposc; .itid its tioln of^'riitris widom hoard. It in to \)o liimonfcd, that thr intorcoinso of tlu'whitrs ninon^' thnii has been cnlcidatrd to convoy any iinprossion« ol'llicrn, rather than those ol the philosophers, of vvhnni wo have spoken. NumlxMless fatal ruses of jealousy are recorded of their yonn;.' warriors, in relercMire to the de|M»rl mcnt of onr peoi)le towards their \\ojnen, while ainoiij,' iheni. 'J'hu man ners of our p(!Oplo, in this inlerconrse, hive; too oftiMi heen an outrage upon decency and humanity, 'i'lierc; are hut few trihes, anion^' whom the passing American aojournor, if lie have any resiM'ctahilily of appear- ance, docs not receive the oiler of a d!m«,'hler, or periiaps the wife ol'his host, as a temporary companion. Almost cnery American trader and resident among them lias an Indian wile; and hut too often, wives in the region, which they left. In Lonif's fnsi expedition an instance of this sort is recorded, of the deep and devoted ninoii^ »iurM<'lvrH; nor liavr \\( ivr l»«'licvr(l for ii njnrnmf, tint Hic proiM-ii silir«? of nature arn not .^ MiroJi'i, undor similar rirciunHlancj-s, in llicrn, as in iH. 'I'luTo iirr nt 5»'iin(l;if<)s of inoriil* nrnnn^ llioni, as ilicrc art; ainnn;,' titn wliifr nation With P»»in»* friltos adnlltiry is a venial oll'cncc; iind in otiiors it is punislu'tl wi'li niutilution* «l('iitli, or tin* liandini,' ovor lli(> «Ici;rad«'d fcrnalo to tln5 males of tlic trilic. Tlio inHsliinroof ii yonnj^ flfpiaw, who is n. mother lM>fnre inarria;/e, is n very nneonimon oeeiirrtMire; nnr have wo as mn
  • tlu; trihes, it is, that the parents rnana<,'0 the matter; and the yoim;.' warrior in the morning' finds the squaw, elected hy the parents, sittinpr in his ijuarters, with what" 1 ' ■■ -I'm miiM S* i 118 MliJSISSIPPI VALLHY. favorite. The more our species arc studied, tJie more clearly it is found, that the human lieart is every where the same. It is beyond all question, that some of the tribes now occasionally practise cannibalism; and that before the new world was visited by the whites, it was a custom generally, if not universally prevalent among them. The imperceptible influence of the horror, with which this practise is regarded by the whites, has made its way among them; and, little as they are disposed to confess, that they are swayed by our opinions, the earnestness with which they deny the existence of the practise at present in their tribes, and with which they attempt to vindicate their ancestors from the charge, is an incontcstible admission of the influence, which our opinions exercise over them. It would extend these remarks beyond our object, to give extensive and general details of Indian manners and modes of life. An important era with the youth of all the tribes is that, when they pass from minority to the duties and estimation of warriors and hunters. This period is celebrated with great solemnity. It is well known, that hunting is the serious business, and war 'he important amusement and pleasure of their lives. The manner, in which they conduct these pursuits, is sufliciently well known. Their modes of constructing their habitations vary, accord- ing as they dwell in a country of forests or prairies, or northern or southern climate. Although in the very few instances, in which the savages have become cultivators in good earnest, they may have con- structed good houses, the far greater portion aim at nothing more, than the frailest and rudest cabin. Yet in the construction of these, there are the same differences, as are seen in the cabins of the backwoods men, Some are extremely rude; and some are framed with ingenious and persevering reference to comfort and utility. The same differences are visible in the internal arrangement and keeping of the cabin* In most instances the interior is filthy and uncomfortable, beyond the endurance of any but a savage. We have been in others, where the neatly matted floor, or the earth covered with tho fresh verdure of the palmetto, and the neatness of all the accompaniments, gave the scene such an air of com- fort, as created a train of pleasant associations with the place. Like all ignorant people, unable to trace the relation between resuUs and causes, they are beyond all other people superstitious. It may be laid down, as an universal trait of the Indian character. The warrior, who braves death a thousand times and in every form in the fury of battle, carries with him to the combat a little charmed bag of filthy and disgust- ing ingredients, in which he places no little reliance, as security against the balls and arrows, that are fired upon him. They are much addicted to faith in dreams. One of the dreamers, the day before alert, confident and i one s abstir food, bledi that a drudg estimg dream TJii; induce cJiaraci had a t * SJiawi late wa: the infli he was enemies in his tx soever h be arsen Every ble, is a degree c with Inc the immj ingenuitl who proi almost a\ soul. dah,^ or wrath; al have forij particulaj prophets [ this Spirij of some great mys ecy, and notions ol from theij fcmperati ARORIGtNES. 119 n results t may be warrior, of battle, 1 disgust- y against addicted confident and intrepid, awakes the next morning, subdued and timid. He paints one side of his face black. Ho subjects himself to the most rigorous abstinence and fasting. Nothing can induce him to indulge or tasto food, until the interdict has passed away. He has dreamed an unfavora- ble dream. Such astonishing hold have these dreams upon their mind, that a warrior has been known to assume the dress, the duties, the drudgery, and, what is infinitely more humiliating to an Indian, the estimation and standing of a squaw, in consequence of one of these dreams. This great tendency to superstition in an Indian mind furnishes strong inducements to ingenious and bold impostors among tliem, to assume the character of jugglers, quacks, medicine men and prophets. Our country had a terrible proof of the efficacy of this assumption, in the case of the * Shawnee prophet,' and inferior men of the same character, during the late war. A chief among the savages of the Missouri exercised, through tlie influence of fear, a long and severe authority over Indians, by whom he was abhorred. He had a medicine bag of terrible efficacy; and his enemies fell on his right hand and on his left. It was a received opinion in his tribe, that his wish had a withering and fatal influence on whom- soever he directed it. After his death, his grand medicine was found to be arsenic. Every thing with them, of great efficacy and power, that is inexplica- ble, is a ' medicine ; ' and the medicine men among them have the next degree of consideration to chiefs and noted warriors. We have conversed with Indians, who were atheists, and treated as fabulous all notions of the immortality of the soul ; and defended their opinions with as much ingenuity, as abandoned people of the lower orders among ourselves, who profess to hold the same opinions. But in some shape or form, almost all savages admit the being of a God. and the immortality of the soul. The Great Spirit is termed in many of their languages, ' Wakcon- dah,'' or Master of Life. Storm and thunder are manifestations of his wrath ; and success in war and hunting, of his favor. Many of the tribes have forms of prayer, in the use of which they are regular and earnest, particularly when starting on expeditions of hunting or war. — Their prophets occasionally give out, that they have had communications with this Spirit, who has made himself visibly manifest to them, in the form of some bird or beast; and they paint their faces black, and observe great mystery on the occasion ; and thence derive their pretensions to proph- ecy, and to be treated with the deference of ' medicine men.' Their notions of the condition of departed spirits are such, as we might expect from their character and condition. In some distant regions of a southern temperature, they place the home of the worthy departed in the country li «■■?■ ',1, m'. ' v«; ViO MISSISSIPPI VALLEV. I of 'brave and free' spirits, who pass to that country of game and good cheer over a bridge, scarcely wider than a hair, suspended over a yawning gulf. They, who have firm hearts and feet, and unblenching counte- nances, — that is to sny, who were good warriors in life, pass safely over the bridge; while tlie timid and trembling fall into the gulf below. Though they will sometimes talk of these matters with great earnest- ness and apparent conviction, yet, wc believe, of all people, that have been known on the earth, their thoughts, hoijcs and fears dwell the least on any thing beyond this life. It seems to be inexplicable to them, that any part of their conduct here can have any bearing upon their condition hereafter. If they can be comfortable, and gain their points in this life, they concern themselves very little about what will happen to them in the life to come. Of course adult savages have too often been found hopeless subjects, upon whom to bestow the pure and sublime truths of our gospel. The days of the Brainards and Elliots seem to have gone by; or the western and southern savages are more hopeless subjects for conversion, than those of the north. They have certainly been found utterly destitute of the plastic docility of the Mexican and Peruvian Indians. Charlevoix has given, as a characteristic trait of the Canadian and western savages of this day, one, that has been found equally appli- cable to them at the present time. They listen with apparent docility and attention to our expositions of our religion, our faith, and ourhojics; and assent to all, and admit, that this may all be true, in relation to indi- viduals of our race. They relate in turn their own fables, their own on the constancy ol their friendship. Wc consider them a treacherous people, easily swayed ScJiool Pottaw as a goi the usi give wh vvlien ol Tiic Int rascal.' I Allw colors tl curse, Every r upon us the ine\ poison, the gene carried access, state go\ tliis subj iind muc and of states in 'lie gene heinirs o It has 'ynisJimc .>ic AEORIGLNES . 121 savnest- it have ic least im, thai mditiun .his life, them in ill found ,e truths avc gone )jects for ;n found Peruvian Canadian lUv appU- t docility mrho^Xis; in to indi- iheir own the same » ours, lospitablo, from tlicir ives their \e sanctity of savages cular war rriors, and ily disarms and brings 3ur cliarac vc received 12 tlie visit. mbrancr cl onf^tancy oi sily swayctl 4 from their purpose, paying their court to the divinity of good fortune, and always ready to side with the strongest. We should not rely upon Ihcir feelings of to-day, as any pledge for what they will be to-morrow. They are well known for their voraciousness of appetite. They endure hunger and thirst, as they do pain and deatli, with astonishing patience and constancy. When they kill a deer, a buffalo, or a bear, after a long abstinence, they will devour an enormous quantity of the flesh. Their fatal and devoted attachment to ardent spirits is matter of melancholy notoriety. In all their councils, and talks and conferences with the ollicers of tJie government, from lake Erie to the Rocky mountains, tlic first and the last request is * whiskey.' This is tlie only point, upon wliich it is useless to appeal to the feelings of honor and shame in an Indian. Declaim, as we may, against the use of it ; paint the ill effects of it, as strongly as we choose; speak with as much contempt as wo may, of drunkards; their best and their bravest still clamor for.whiskey. Schoolcraft gives us a characteristic anecdote to this effect. A noted Pottawattomie chief presented himself to the American agent at Chicago, as a good man, and a good friend to the Americans, and concluded with the usual request for whiskey. The rei)ly was, that the agent did not give whiskey to good Indians; that such neither asked for it, nor drank it, when offered; that it was bad Indians only, who asked for whiskey. The Indian replied with great quickness, in broken English, * Mo d n rascal.' All words would be thrown away in attempting to pourtray in just colors the effects of whiskey upon such a race. It is, indeed, tlio heaviest curse, that their intercourse with tho whites has entailed upon them. Every obligation v f duty, as philanthropists and Christians, imposes upon us all possible cllbrts to prevent tho extirpation of the whole race; the inevitable consequence of their having free access to this liquid poison. We have adverted to tho stern and rigorous prohibitions of the general government, and the fidelity with which they are generally carried into effect; yet, in some way or other, wherever Americans have access, Indians have whiskey. It is understood, that the laws of the state governments and of the general government are not in concert upon this subject. It is matter of undoubted fact, that in the states, the Indians lind much less difficulty in procuring whiskey, than in the territories; and of course intoxication is far more common. Tho duties of the states imperiously call upon them, to frame laws in unison with those of tlic general government, and to unite with that, to prevent these unhappy beings from exercising their suicide propensities. It has been inferred, because they make it a point, not to express as- tonishment, or curiosity, in view of our improvements and arts, that they 16 r: i m m I 'I' J mm •I niississiiTi \.\M,i:v, linvo lit lit* curiosity; atui iKriuisc llicy mhmii lo iinid tluMii iii <'()IiUmii|)1 nnd disdain, timl tlicy liavo iu)lliiiii( aiialonrons to llio <-.iipidity, vanity, or prido of tlio whites. Tlu-y aic, inKincslionaltly, a very proud race; and (heir prido inthicos thoui to alU'cl indillcrcuco, and t(> hold tlM)sothin;^s in npparout contoujpt, wliii'h they aro Cdnscious they ciui not ohiain. As regards tJieir vanity, we have not ofieu had the Itntune lo»"onttMM|>lalf;i youns of verniillion on htM- round I'aee, from tlu> artificial nianntM', in whieli her hair is ehildx'd, and IVoin the lime, which she oeeupies in conipletin«i; these arnmi.feinenls, we infer, that dress and jUMSonal ornament oeeupy the same porlionol" iier llionnhln (hut they do of tJie rasiiional)le woman of civili/ed soeii'ty. A yonn;; Tmlian warrior, is notoriously the most tliorou;.;h ^'oin<,' heau in the world. Broatlway and JJond street, rurnisii no snlijeels, that will spend as much tinie, or endure as nmch crimpin;j[ and eonlinement, to ap|>ear in full dress. We think, that we have observed sm-h a charaeler, eonslanlly employed witJi his paints and his poeket ^lass lor three lull hours, layini^' on his paints, and arranj];in;ress of his attractions. The ehiefs and warriors in full dress have one, two or tlnve clas[)s of silver ahoni their arms, generally jewels in their cars, and oI'Icmj in their ih)s«'; and notliiiiji is more conunon, than to see a thin, cireular pit'ee of silver, of the si/e of a dollar, hanging fri)m their nose, a little l)elow their upper lip. This ormunent, so horribly inconvenient, seems to be ouv of the highest Indian taste. Painted porcni)iiie(piills are twirled in their hair. Tails of animals hang from the hair behind; or from the point, when' tJiey were originally api)ended to the animal. A necklace of bears' ov ali- gator'n tecth,or claws of the bald eagle, or common n-d beads, or wanlini,' these, a kind of rosary of red hawthorns, hangs about the neck. Kroia the knees to the feet the legs are ornamented with great numbers of little perforated cylindrical pieces of silver or brass, that tinkle, as tlu; person walks. If to all this, he add an American hat, and a soldier^s coat el' blue, faced witJi rcil, over the customary calico shirt, he steps iirinly on the ground, to give to his tinklers a simultaneous noise, and api)arenll) considers his jHirson with as nuich com[)laceney, as the human boseiii can be supposed to feel. This is a very cmtailetl view of an Indian beau, and faithful, as far as it goes, to the description of almost every young Indian at a great public dance. So many faitliful prints have recently lieen presented to the pid)lic of the Indian figure ami costume, that most of those, who have not seen ilu: living subject, have defmite views of it The males for the most pari wear leggins, sitting closely frouj the loins to the ancles generally ol' sniok [((•yoi sh()nl( skin ( with ( /Mcnts !, llirnwu loosrly over llio .slioiildrrH; and those, who live in lh(! re^Mon oflhe hultido, vvenr ii dressed skill of that animal Their nioecasins are ornamented with extrenno care, with dilllirent eolored porcupine <|iiiliH, arran/^'ed in liiiOH and conipart- int^ntH. ISuL in tlu; sultry luonths, they are often s(;<;n with no other dress, than a piece ofhliic! st of (lie Mississippi, wIk» will proiionncL' liimsclf a Clirislian, 'riicn; an; n»any, tlial Ikiv(; crosses suspciuliMl from llicir necks, wliicli llicy show, as (licy do llicir medals. They seem lo think, (iiat llio profession t)f Cluistianily t^ives fliem additional claims upon us. While we wcro writiufr, some Appala- cliy Indians applied to the iud<.'e of the district, where; we resided, for redress. They sp(»ko of tlio allen, who have left the precincts of every tliin;j!', that is desirable in life, to ^'o into thest; solitudes, and take in hand, those tmiformed children of nature. There arc some circumstances, wliich invest the present missionary cilbrls with stronger probal)ilities of success, than any, that have preceiliil them. The number of Indians, that are lialf breeds, or mixtures of tlio blood of the wiiites, is fj;reat, and continually incr(>asiuif. Tlu'so j>encr- ally espouse, either from convictitwi, or from i)arty feelinij, the inleresi of civilization and Christianity. It is more universally, than it once was, a conviction, that Christianity is the religicrti of social and civili/cd man. Instead of relyin ■ '! on the A i Some V They arc i vial j>raii '■* The in OS ... ) tl K'ir (lea fei^ VV(? have ihc men ( i^ iinprovcid M once, lies m were not reference and simil artificial ( valley, as u entrance t. MOM mi:nts. \il inlry, an; ill throiigli niunbcvrf i)rc or less xi mouiulu not l)oon detain I lie by wlumi ry opinioi' vatioiial clcniciil, on wliicli lo round if, wo sliidl discover ill onco, fliat Midi dirtsorliilions could llirow no rcrlain \\\sh\ « n tlio siibjccl. VVIullwir till! mass of llicm was conslrnclcd for forlilicatiinis, ohsrrvalorics, Ivm- |)|{>s, or loinlts, if is Ii»)|K'I(\'^s (o ciKiniro. That somo of iIumii scTvcd for dio last |)nr|)os have seen, were such, and soarranss of solemn and deliberate inhnination. The mounds show no more art, th(ni;fh infmilely more labor, than nji;,dit bo expected from the present Indians. They aronjero erections of earth, e\hibitinr ri^^lif lines. Iron tools yjvw. not ns(Ml in the formation of them. Sloiu^ makes no part of them. Yot many of fhe scjiiares and parallelo,i,M'ams make a much more conspicnouH (i^Mire, after the lapse of unknown aifcs, than fhe dcfonces of earth, thrown up on the Atlantic, shore, diirini!; fhe revolutionary war. ?5ome of them aro said to be found on hills. Wc have seen none such. They are jifenerally on ferfih; wooded bottoms, plains, or the riclusr allu- vial ])rairies, where wild fruits, \i\\\\\o and fi.sli an; abuiHlant and at hand. The most dense ancient population e.xisted precisely in the places whero fhe most crowded future population will e.xi.st in flu; ^'en(;rations to come The ai)pearance of a series of mounds ^renerally indicates the eonti;,Miify of rich and level lands, easy communications, lish, ^'anu;, and the most favorable adjacent positions. 'J'he only circumstance, which stronj^dy discredits fh(>ir havining with their profession and avowed objects. In the midst of the American bottom, perhaps the most fertile spot on the globe, exerting its exhaust- less fertility only in the production of dense forest, or a useless luxuriance of weeds and flowers, all in view of their dwelling is a solitary prairie. A few dreaming men, vowed to perpetual silence, apparently belonging more to another world, than this, seat themselves on one of those lonely and inexplicable monuments of generations, that arc now no more, in the midst of gigantic weeds, gaudy flowers, and rank grass. — No noise disturbs them, by day or night, but the chirjung of the grasshopper, or the cry of wolves, or the hooting of owls. There arc very interesting mounds near St. i.ouis, a little north of the town. Some of them have the aspect of enormous stacks. That one of them, called the ' falling garden,' is generally pointed out, as a great curiosity. — One of these mounds, and it was a very striking one, was levelled in the centre of Chillicothe. In digging it down, it is said, there were removed cart loads of human bones. The town of Circlcville, in Ohio, is principally laid out within the limits of a couple of contigu- ous mounds,- the one circular, the other square. The town has its name from its position, chiefly in the circular mound. In this, and in many other mounds, the singular circumstance is said to exist, and by people, who live near them, and ought to know that, of which they aflirm, tjiat the earth, of which they are composed, is entirely distinct from that in the vicinity. It is of no avail to enquire, why the budders should have encountered the immense toil, to bring these hills of cartli from another place ? Our country has been described abroad, as sterile of moral intcrtvi VVc have, it is said, no mommicnts, no ruins, none of the colossal rcinaiii.-i of temples, and baronial castle.^, and monkish towers; nothing to conned the imagination and the heart with the pastj none of the dim rccollcc , «■: roi'ULATION. 129 is near lUndrcd I is thai tt eijilil ) on the Ijoinint:; inouiKl hi<^ with Liiiericau cxhaust- xuriiincc f piairic. )elongin<]; sc lonely more, in No noise lioppcr, or rth of the That one as a great one, was it is said, irclcville, f contigu- as its name J in many by people, llirni, that om that ill lould have om another ral intere:^! ;sal rcmuiiK r to connect inr rccollcc i lions of limes f^oiic hy, to ■'issnciatc! thu [Kist with the future. Wo have not travcHed in other hiiuls. Ihit in pnssitif,' over our vast prairies, in viewing our nohl(j and ancient loicst!^', planted l)y nature, and nurtured only hy a'^'cs; when we liavo seen the sun risin<,' over a boundless plain, where the blue of (he heavens in nil directions touched, and mingled witli the verdure of the (Iowim'h; when our thoujj;hts have traversed rivers of a thousand leagues in length; when wc have seen^lio ascending steam boat breasting the surge, and gk-aniing through the verdure of the trees; when wc have iniagined the h.ippy multitudes, that from these shores will contemplate this scenery in d;iys to come; wc have thought, that our great country miglit at least compare with any other, in the beauty of its natural scenery. AVJien, on an uninhabited prairie, wc have fallen at nightfall upon a group of these mounds, and have thought of the masses of human bones, that moulder heneath; when the .heart and the imagin- ation evoke the busy multitudes, that here 'strutted through life's poor play,' and ask the jjliantoms who and what they were, and why they have loft no memorials, but these mounds; we have found ample scope for reflections and associations of the past with the future. We should not iiighly estimate the mind, or the heart of the man, who could behold these tombs of the prairies without deep thought. These regions bear ample testimonials of another sort, of a World gone by. Beside the human skeletons, found in the nitre caves, and at the Maramec, of which we shall have occasion to speak in another place) diere are found at the licks, and, as luibitaney and cultivation bring us more acquainted with what is concealed beneath the soil, over all the valley, masses of bones of animals of enormous size, to which the name of mammotli and megalonyx have been given. A ship's cargo could easily be furnished. — The bones of animals of diflercnt classes, forms and sizes, from any that are now known to exist, and different, too, from the mammoth, are discovered in the same places with these huge remains. While we are writing, they are exhibiting at Now Orleans the bones of an animal, to which the mammoth itself must have been a pigmy, found near Plaquemine, on the Mississippi, below that city. — They have been iisserted, and denied to be the bones of a whale. A diligent and unwea- ried antiquarian, in the state of Ohio, ailirms, that he has discovered, in laying open the earth in his geological examinations, the wood and the leaves of the bread-fruit tree, and other vegetable tropical remains. Whatever credit this opinion may receive, all admit, that every part of the Mississijjpi valley is marked with monuments of immense and inex- plicable changes in the natural world, and of races of animals and men« that are now no more. 17 ^S MM ii'>-'i ^^^m 4'.^^ :!^^'M Mt'l 'r'l liiiii ino MisMifisirri vAi.i,i:v. Prksevt Pori'f.iTrox. Tlio pro^/rrss ol' tin* |n)piil:ition of fliJM cnmi- try, tiH every <>iit> kiunvH, is witlimil any ('\aiii|)l(f or panilli'l in llic ri>i-iM(||i of ollior colonicH, ill aiicinit or iiindi'in litiit>s; not t'\co|itiii/^r even lli(> nniials of tliu adviiiicnni'iil of llif Allaiilic citiiiilry. \Vc0 at 2,500,000, The pirescnt population may he rated at 4,000,000. It will he perceived that tliis is an increase, in more than a duplicate ratio in ten years. Some considerahlo allowance must he made, of course, for tiio flood of immigration, which can not loasonahly he expected to set tliis way, for llic future as strongly as it has for the i)>isl. Ohio, with the largest and most dense population of any of the western stales, has nearly douhic the numhcr of inhabitants, hy the census of IKJO, which she had by that of 1820. — During that interval, her gain by iminigiation has scarcely equalled her loss by emigration; and, of course, is simply that of natural increase. In the rajHdity of this increase, we believe, this state not only exceeds any other in the west, but in the world. It is the good naturcd jcatof all, who travel through the western states, that however productive in other harvests, they are still more so in an nne(piallcd crop of flaxen hoaded children; and that 'this is the noble growth our realms supply.* We have a million more inhabitants, than the ihirtecn good old United States, when at tho commencement of tlie revolutionary war, they threw down |M»\ver Not tic coi the lie an an heyoiK iiiciea." aiiiplo tilings, llioiigh (riiiinpl fertile i • lie higl aged; ;i product and its ( tlieinsel' gain, an l)y Provi tlieni, wi tlio opei found gr .sii fieri ng fives; ai the coiiiil found, ii the rest, sickliesti iniilti|)li( swarm inj lliat in ( so(;tion \\ Anotlii iIk! rutin lial)itant> laborers oils, or 1 range ofl whoso vi who <4ef whose nj I'OI'II.XTION. \'.\\ i (luwii tli«> of tli<> inrciit <(iiiiiliy, lluii llii> most IMtwciriil cininif oil tin? ^lol««. Niilwillisliiiifl' ••' llio iiiiprossioii, HO m'licnilly rnlrrt;iiin'<| in llu^ Allnii- tic coiitilry, llint iliiH valloy is tiiiivctHiilly iiiili(Mllliy, iiihI iMitwilliHlaiKliiiK lli(< M(!ccH.siiry iiiliiiission, thai i'cvcr niid a^iu! is pn^valriit to a iirvnt iiiid an aniioyiii;,' ''-yrcr, llin Hliihlmru faclM, iibovo utalcil, ilctnoiiHlriik', boyoiid iill |)))^.^ >ility of tiriiiul, llial no coiiiilry is more i>ni|iiliouH lu inrntasc liy iiainral population. Wherever the means of (lasy, i'rtio and aiiiph! KnhMHlencc! iiro provi(h>(l, it is in the nature and onh^r of liimiaii thiny its rich jirodiicts, aixl its exemption from winter, adventurers will Hiiccessivoly arrive, fix tliemsj'lves, hecomc; sitkly, and it may he, die. ()tli(;rs, lusting for gain, and with that reckk'ssntss to the future, for wise ends awarded na hy l*rovi«lence, and undismayed l»y the fate of those, who have preceded them, will replace them. By culture, draining, the fe(!ding of cattle, and the op(>ning the country to th(! f<;ver-hanishiiig l»rf!C/e, the utmosj>liere itf found gradually to mc^liorato. The iidiahitants, taught hy exp(!ri(!nco and snllering, come hy degrees to hiarn the climate, tlio opnlation with the rest. Such has i)rov(;d to lie the steady advance of things in tlio sickliest points of the south. The rapidity of onr increase in nnmhors multiplies the dilficnllies of subsistence, and stimulates and sharpens tlio swarming ficulties and propensities in the i)arcnt hive, and will cause, that in M POPULATION. 133 )oint;-* r half c soil, s chil- lir and igcs of ince of I move 5 West, hat are articles ind it is heyond trace the iliscussiou csenting a holding, nt for our e districts pidly than th which it and small ot be easily hrouffjit into ^ci^tivation ; no thinking mind can have failed to foresee, iliat this country must and will ultimately sustain a great and dense pop- ulation of farmer?. Taking into view soil, climate, and tlio means of easy communication, the most material and natural elements upon which to calculate, in regard to future increase of population, and no country can be found, which invites increase more strongly, than ours. In half a century, the settled parts of it will, probably, have become as healthy as any other country. In that lapse of time, it can hardly be sanguine to calculate, that by improving the navigation of the existing rivers, by the numerous canals which will bo made, in aid of what nature has already dope, in a region where there arc no mountains, and few high liills, and no intermixture of refractory granite; where the rivers, which risd-djmost in the same level, interlock, and then wind away in opposite directions; where, from these circumstances, and the absence of granite hills, canals can be made with comparative ease; that the country will be permeated in every direction, either by steam boats, or sea vessels lowed by them, or by transport conducted by rail-road [)owcf. No coun- try, it is generally supposed here, can be found, which contains so great a proportion of cultivable and habitable land, compared with the whole extent of its surface. — Humboldt, so well qualified to judge by compari- son, has pronounced it the largest valley in the world. It has a less pro- portion of swamps, sterile plains, and uncultivable mountains, than any other region of the same extent. — When it shall have been inhabited as long as Massachusetts and Virginia, what limits can imagination assign to its population and improvement ? No one can fail to have&reseen, at this time of the day, that the period is not far distant, when the greater mass of the population of our coun- try will be on this side the mountains. We would not desire, in antici- pation, to vex the question, where the centre of our national government will then be? We are connected already with the Atlantic country by noble roads. We shall shortly be connected with the Hudson, Delaware and Chesapeake bays, by navigable canals. A rail-road between Balti- more and the Ohio is in rapid progress, and thousands have travelled on the first completed section. Our different physical conforniation of country, and the moral circumstances of our condition, have aligned to us, as we tliink, agriculture, as our chief pursuit. Suppose manufac- tures to flourish among us to the utmost extent, which our most honest and earnest patriots could desire, and we should still, as we think, find ourselves bound by the ties of a thousand wants, to the coaitry north and east of tl«3 mountains. The very difference of our pliysical and moral character contributes to form a chain of mutual wants, holding us to tliat region by the indissoluble tic of mutual interest. At present, 131 MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. *;" r» llie passajDje of llie mountains, formerly estimated by tlic Atlantic people something like an India voyage, and not without its dangers, as well as its diificulties, is no more, than a trip of pleasure of two or three days. We shall soon be able to sail, at the writing desk, or asleep, from New Orleans, Fort Mandan, or Prairie du Chien, through the interior forests to tlie beautiful bay of New York. The time is not distant, when the travelled citizens of the otlier side the mountains will not be willing to admit, that he has not taken an autumnal or vernal trip of pleasure, or observation, from Pittsburgh to New Orleans. The landscape painter and the poet will come among us, to study and admire our forest, river and prairie scenery, and to imbibe new ideas, from contemplating the grandeur and the freshness of our nature. For us, as a people, we look over the mountains, and connect our affections with the parent country beyond, by the strong ties of natal attachment; for there, to the passing generation at least, was the place of their birth. There still live our fathers and our brethren. There arc the graves of our ancestors ; and there are all the delightful and never forgotten remembrances of our infancy and our boyhood. We have hitherto been connected to that country, by looking to it exclusively for fashions, models and literature. The connexion will remain, not as we hope, a slavish one ; for duty, interest and self-respect imperiously call upon us to set up for ourselves, in these respects, as fast as possible. But as younger members of the family, thrust into the woods, to give place to those, who had the rights of primogeniture, and obliged to find our subsistence by cutting down the trees, we have as yet had but little leisure to think of any thing, beyond the calls of necessity, and the cal- culations of immediate interest and utility. As soon as we have the leisure for higher purposes, we shall be unworthy of our family alliance, if we do not immediately institute a friendly rivalry in these respects, which vill be equally honorable and useful for each of the parties. Wc know our rights, and we are able to maintain them. It is only the little minded and puny, that allow themselves to indulge in a causeless and fretful jealousy. There must be a real, palpable and continued purpose to undenaluc us, and curtail our rights, and arrest our advancement and prosperity, before we would allow ourselves to remember our great ciiain of mountains, and our world by itself. Our patriotism has been tam- pered witi, more than once, even in our infancy. We came forth wilii honor from every trial. Every link of the golden, and, we hope, perpet- ual chain of the union, will be grasped as firmly by the citizens of the West, as of the Atlantic. We flatter ourselves, that we have liad un- common chances to note the scale of the western thermometer, in this respect. We have every where seen and felt a spirit, whicli has given us ^'Ut p NATI0N4L CIIARACTEH. 135 lling to lure, or painter st, river ting the lect our of natal he place rhere arc id never We have sivcly for lot as wo )usly call possible. s, to give 3d to find but little d the cal- have the ^ alliance, respects, ftics. Wc r the little seless and id purpose emcnt and treat chain been tani- forth witli pc, pcrpcl- ;ens of the le had un- itcr, in this LIS given us the asanrancc of conviction, that the popularity of tliat demagogue would be blasted, and would wither forever, who sliould for a moment manifest the remotest incipient wish to touch the chain of tliis union with an un- hallowed hand. The interests and alFections of the western j)eople hold to that, as strongly, and as proudly, to say no more, as those of the East. From time to time demagogues will spring up, and atrocious and unprin- cipalled editors will be found, to meditate any thing, — and to dare to inculcate, and write, and publish what they meditate. But the strength and virtue of the community will never bear them out. Wherever attempts may be made to disaffect, alienate and sever one section of this great union from the rest, may God avert tho omen ! that attempt will not commence with us. They may reproach us with being rough, untrained, and backwoods men. But as a people we are strong for the union, and the whole union. Every true son of the West will join in the holiest aspirations, ^csto perpctua."* May it last as long as the sun and moon shall endure ! National Charactek of the Western People. We shall remark upon the character of the French part of our population in describing Louisiana and Missouri, where the greater portion of that people is found. We shall remark upon the distinctive character of Kentu6ky, in giving the geography of that state. We only wish to catch here, if possible, the slight, but perceptible peculiarities of national character which our pecu- liar circumstances and condition have imposed upon us. The people of this valley are as thorough a combination and mixture of the people of all nation^;, characters, languages, conditions and opin- ions, as can well be imagined. Scarcely a state in the Union, or a nation in Europe, but what has furnished us immigrants. Philosophers and noblemen have visited us from beyond the seas; some to study our natural history, or to contemplate a new people rising from the freshnesi of nature, over the fertile ruins of a once submerged world ; or deluded here by the pastoral dreams of Rousseau, or Chateaubriand; or, in the sample of the savages to study man in a state of nature. The much greater projjortion of the immigrants from Europe are of the poorer classes, who come here from hunger, poverty, oppression, and the grinding vassalage of crowded and miserable tenants of an aristocratic race, born to the inheritance of the soil, and all the comforts and hopes of present existence. They lind themselves here with the joy of shipwrecked mariners, cast on the untenanted woods, and instantly become cheered with the invigorating hope of being able to build up a family and a for- tune from new elements. ^The north has given to us, and the south has not lept hack'' The puritan and the planter, the German and tho m ># m m I 13U MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. Irishman, llic Briton and the I'^icnchman each witli their iwculiar prejudi- ces and local altachiuents, and the cotnplicatod and inwoven tissue of sentiments, fceliniis and Ihonghts, that country, and kindred, and home, indelibly combine with the web of our youthful existence, have here set down beside each other. The merchant, mechanic and farmer, each with their peculiar prejudices and jcalouses, have found themselves placed by necessity in the same society. Mr. Owen's grand engine of circum- stances begins to play upon tiiem. Men must cleave to their kind, and must be dependent upon each other. Pride and jealousy must give way to the natural yearnings of the human heart for society. They begin to rub off mutual prejudices. One takes a step, and then the other. They meet half way, and embrace; and the society thus newly organized and constituted, is more liberal, enlarged, unprejudiced, and of course more affectionate and pleasant, than a society of people of unique birth and character, who bring all their early prejudices, as a common stock, to be transmitted as an inheritance in |)erpetuity. The rough, sturdy and simple habits of the backwoods men, living in that plenty, which depends only on God and nature, being the pre- ])onderating cast of character in the western country, have laid the stamina of indejiendent thought and feeling deep in the breasts of this people. A man accustomed only to the fascinating, but hollow inter- course of the polished circles in the Atlantic cities, at first feels a painful revulsion, when mingled with this more simple race. But he soon be- comes accustomed to the new order of things ; and if ho have a heart to admire simplicity, truth and nature, begins to be pleased with it. He respects a people, where a poor, but honest man enters the most aris- tocratic mansion with a feeling of ease and equality. It may readily be supposed, that among such an infinite variety of people, so recently thrown together, and scarcely yet amalgamated into one people, and in a country, where the Institutions are almost as fresh and sim- ple as the log houses, any very distinctive national character could hardly yet be predicated of the inhabitants. Every attentive observer, however, discriminates the immigrants froin the different nations, and even from the different states of our own country. The people of Ohio and Indiana for example, have a ciiaractcu- somewhat distinct from that of the other western states. Tiiat of tlio former, especially, is moulded, as a very fair sample of the New I'^ngland and New Jersey patterns. In the latter this character is blended, not merged with the manners, opinions and dialect of Kentucky. Illinois tliough a free state, has a clear preponde- rance of Kentucky nationality. Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, the upper part of Alabama and Arkansas, have distinct manners in which the nationality of Kentucky is tiie ground color. The country still more south, peopled witii large planters of cotton and sugar cane, with nume- i 4 NATIONAL CHARACTER. 137 louri, the Du which till more Ih nume- I runs gangs of slaves, have the peculiar manners, that have naturally grown out of their condition. On these states too, especially on Louisiana, we begin to discern the distinct impress and influence of French tempera- ment and manners. These siiades of difference are very distinctly visible to persons, who have been long and intimately acquainted with the people of the different regions, where they are marked. But young ns the country is, variously constituted and combined, as are the elements of its population, there is already marked, and it is every year more fully developed, a distinctive character of the western people. A traveller from the Atlantic cities, and used only to their man- ners, descending from Pittsburgh, or Wheeling, the Ohio and the Missis- sippi in a steam boat of tl)e larger class, will find on board, what may be considered fair samples, of all classes in our country, except the farmers. To become conversant with the younger representatives of the 'yeomanry, lie must acquaint himself with the crews of the descending flat boats. Sufliciently copious specimens of the merchants and traders, the artizans the large planters, tin speculators, and last, though not least, the ladies, will be seen on board the different steam boats descending to New Orleans, or on their return voyage. The manners, so ascertained, will strike such a traveller as we have supposed, with as much novelty, distinctness, and we may add, if he be not bigoted and fastidious, with as much pleasure, saving the language, as though he had visited a country beyond the seas. Tlie dialect is different. The enunciation is different. The peculiar and proverbial colloquy is different. The figures and illus- trations, used in common parlance, are strikingly different. We regret, that fidelity to our picture, that frankness and truth compel us to admit, that the frequency of profanity and strange curses is ordinarily an un- pleasant element in the conversation. The speaking is more rapid. The manner has more appearance of earnestness and abruptness. The common comparisons and analogies are drawn from different views and relations of things. Of course he is every moment reminded, that he is a stranger among a people, whose modes of existence and ways of think- ing are of a widely different character from those, in the midst of which lie was reared. Although we have so often been described to this traveller, by the repulsive terms backwoods men, gougers, ruffians, demi-savages, a strange mixture, in the slang phrase, of the ' horse and the alligator,^ we confidently hazard the opinion, that when a little accustomed to the manners of the better class of people among us, he will institute a com- parison between our people and his own, not unfavorable to us. There is evidently more ease and frankness, more readiness to meet a wish to form an acquaintance, sufficient tact, when to advance, and how far^ 18 •%. \ #*• # % "■ -^:>' fgA->^*iVT"&'CZ i^ & 138 MISSISSIFl'I VALLEV. and where fo pause in lliis effort; less holilin*,' back, less diaUust, less feeling as if the address of a stranger were an insiil(,or a degradation. There is inculcated and practised on board the steam boats a courtesy to ladies, whi-'-h is delightful i(i its proper extent; but which is here, some- times, apt to overstep the modesty of nature, in the affectation of a chivalrous deference, which would be considered misplaced, or ridiculous on the Atlantic shores. A scries of acquaintances are readily and natur- ally formed between fellow passengers, in their long descents to New Orleans, very unlike the cold, constrained, and almost repelling and liostilc deportment of fellow passengers in the short stage and steam boat passages in the Atlantic country. They are very different from tlie intimacies of fellow passengers in crossing the Atlantic, and infinitely more pleasant. Putting out of the question ennui, sea sickness, and the constant rolling of the vessel, circumstances so unpropitious to the culti- vation of pleasant intercourse, custom has prescrilicd a state and distance on shipboard, which cause, that cabin passengers often cross the ocean to- gether, without acquiring any thing more than a speaking intimacy at the end of the voyage. Not so on these passages, where the boat glides steadily and swiftly along the verge of the fragrant willows. The green shores are always seen with the same coiqt cT ail, tliat takes in the magni- ficent and broad wave of the Mississippi. Refreshments come in from the shore. The passengers every day have their promenade. The claims of prescription on the score of wealth, family, ofiicc, and adventitious dis- tinctions of every sort, are in a measure laid aside, or pass for nothing. The estimation, the worth and interest of a person are naturally tried on his simple merits, his powers of conversation, his innate civility, his capa- cities to amuse, and his good feelings. The distinctive character of the western people may be traced in its minuter shades to a thousand causes, among which are not only their new modes of existence, the solitary lives which they, who are not inhabitants of towns, lead in remote and detached habitations, the greater part of the time, and the readier aptitude and zest, which they will naturally Jiave, when thus brought together, as we have described above, to enjoy society; but it chiefly results from the unchangeable physical formation of the country. For instance, it has been remarked, that tJie inhabitants of the western country, when thrown upon the blue water, are sailors almost at once. Their long inland water courses, at once the channels of convey- ance and communication, place them in primary nautical schools, train them to familiar acquaintance with all the methods of managing and propelling water crafts, and naturally conduct tlieir thoughts from their interior forests, and their rural and secluded abodes, down to the ocean. The skill and facility, thus acquired, in being familiar with the movc- more count] of life metroj states : passing fcrcnt few, in the ; tlian part su West, TlicJ a char tains, tlie Eai concci narrow which 1 tiblc ot man of farmer. From steam 1 peril, i\ as bcfd f,A N A TION \ L CH A R A CTP.Il . 130 mcnls of the canoe, llio periodic and skilT, almost from the day;? of infan- cy, ^ivc them the samedcxtcrily and daring on the ocean, when they are at length wafted down to its tempestuous bosom, with those who were reared on the shores of that clement. But an inhabitant of the Atlantic shore can have but a faint conception of the sublime emotions, with which a young man reared in the silence and seclusion of the western forests, first beholds the illimitable extent of the * broad, flat sea.' Every intelli- ncnt and gifted son of the West will be ^ poet for tlio first few hours ofhis sailing on the ocean, if sea sickness do not banish the visitings of the muse. Their forests and prairies concur with their inclinations and abundant leisure, to give them the spirit-stirring and adventurous habits of the chase. Tlieir early training to leave the endearments and the maternal nursing of home, for an absence of three or four months, on voyages of constant exposure, and often of a length of more than five hundred leagues, will naturally tend to create a character, widely unlike the more shrinking, stationary and regular habits of the people of the older country. Multitudes, perhaps the majority of those in the middle walks of life in the Atlantic country, seldom extend their travels beyond their metropolis, or their chief mart. Every part of the middle and northern states is traversed in all directions by fine roads, on which are continually passing great numbers of stage coaches. In the West, all this is very dif- ferent. There arc roads, indeed, some of which nature, and but a veiy few, art, has rendered tolerably passable. But the passing on them, even in the most populous districts is limited. The passages are seldom more than from village to village, settlement to settlement, and for the most part subservient to arriving at the real roads, the great turnpikes of the West, her long rivers. These rivers, which bound or intersect every state in the West, are of a character entirely unlike most of those, which flow east of the moun- tains. They arc narrow, deep, and to a person used only to the rivers of the East, and judging them by comparison and by their width, of an in- conceivable length of course. Their depth of water resulting from the narrowness of tlieir channels, and the level and alluvial country, through which for the most part they flow, render them almost universally suscep- tible of steam boat, or at least boat navigation. The instance of a young man of enterprise and standing, as a merchant, trader, pla'-'.cr, or even farmer, who has not made at least one trip to New Orleans, is uncommon From the upper and even middle western states, before the invention of steam boats, it was a voyage of long duration, and we may add, of more peril, than a voyage across the Atlantic. These rivers are still descended as before that invention, in boata of every description. In recently 4' rt mm. -# 140 MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. A Hi S.; ^ making tlie descent from Pittsburgh to Natchez, in an uncommonly low stage of the waters, wc noted between two and three hundred descendinH<> tit. 'I'lu- tho uldcc 3 pitclud , to whicli while tliti lately tlis- ns. This mletterctl iselulncsfi three pnsf tid for the 3. Sonic- as there, spectacle. 3 fame Ikis is a theme rest. xcited ill I d approaci I seen, can ; produces ic scene to uent camp 3 beautiful notice has coaches, travelling tents, and very point beautiful t verdure, with the intense intere:*t of eager curiosity. Thu tniddle aged fathers and luothera of families uro there, with the sober views of i)eople, whose plans in life aro fixed, and waiting calmly to hear. Men and women of hoary hairs aro tlicrc, with su( h thoughts, it may bu h()[)cd, as their yeari invite. — Such is the congrc;,niti()n consisting of thousands. A host of preachers of diflerent denominations aro there, aomo in the earnest vigor and aspiring desires of youth, waiting an opportunity for display; others, who have proclaimed the gospel, as pilgrims of the cross, fVom the remotest north of our vast country to the shores of thu Mexican gulf, and ready to utter the words, the feelings and the experience, which they have treasured up in a travelling ministry of fifty years, and whose accents, trembling with age, still more impressively than their words, an- nounce, that they will soon travel, and preach no more on the earth, are there. Such are the preachers. The line of tents is pitched ; and the religious city grows up in a few hours under the trees, beside the stream. Lamps are hung in lines among the branches; and the effect of tlieir glare upon the surrounding forest is, as of magic. The scenery of the most brilliant theatre in the world is a painting only for children, compared with it. Meantime the multitudes, with the highest e.xcitement of social feeling added to the general enthu- siasm of expectation, pass from tent to tent, and interchange apostolic greetings and embraces, and talk of the coming solenmities. Their coffee and tea are prepared, and their supper is finished. By this time the moon, for they take thought, to appoint the meeting at the proper time of the moon, begins to show its disk above the dark summits of the mountains; and a few stars are seen glimmering through the intervals of the branches. The whole constitutes a temple worthy of the grandeur of God. An old man, in a dress of the quaintest simplicity, ascends a platform, wipes the dust from his spectacles, and in a voice of suppressed emotion, gives out the hymn, of which the whole assembled multitude can recite the words, — and an air, in which every voice can join. We should deem poorly of the heart, that would not thrill, as the song is heard, like the 'sound of many waters,^ echoing among the hills and mountains. Such are the scenes, the associations, and such the influence of external things upon a nature so ' fearfully and wonderfully' constituted, as ours, tliat little effort is necessary on such a theme as religion, urged at such a place, under such circumstances, to fill the heart and the eyes. The hoary orator talks of God, of eternity, a judgment to come, and all that is impressive ^beyond. He speaks of his < experiences,' his toils and travels, his persecutions and welcomes, and how many he has seen in hope, in peace and triumph, gathered to their fathers; and when he speaks ■>' ] 10 146 MISSISSIPI'I VALiiEY. ifll H IHi flii ■ in II 1 1 ^^^H^n 1 1 of the short space that remains to him, his only regret is, that he can no more proclaim, in the silence of dcatli, tJie mercies of his crucified Redeemer. ' ?" * * There is no need of the studied trick of oratory, to produce in such a place the deepest movements of tlie heart. No wonder, as the speaker pauses to dash the gathering moisture from his own eye, that his audi- ence are dissolved in tears, or uttering the exclamations of penitence. Nor is it cause for admiration, that many, wlio poised themselves on an estimation of higher intellect, and a nobler insensibility, than the crowd, catch the infectious feeling, and become women and cliildren in their turn ; and though they ' came to mock, remain to pray.' Notwitlistanding all, that has been said in derision of these spectacles, so common in this region, it can not be denied, that tlie influence on tiio whole, is salutary, and the general bearing upon the great interests of the community, good. It will be long, before a regular ministry can be generally supported, if ever. In place of that, nothing tends so strongly to supply the want of the influence, resulting from the constant duties of a stated ministry, as the recurrence of these explosions of feeling, which shake the moral world, and purify its atmosphere, until the accu- mulating seeds of moral disease require a similar lustration again. Whatever be the cause, tlie effect is certain, that through the state of Tennessee, parts of Mississippi, Missouri, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, these excitements have produced a palpable change in the habits and manners o^ the people. The gambhng and drinking shops are deserted : and the people, that used to congregate there, now go to tlie religious meetings. The Metliodists, too, have done great and incalcu- lable good. They are generally of a character, education and training, that prepare them for the elements, upon which they are destined to operate. They speak tlie dialect, understand the interests, and enter into the feelings of their audience. They exert a prodigious and incal- culable bearing upon the rough backwoods men; and do good, where more polished, and trained ministers would preach without effect. No mind, but His, for whom they labor, can know, how many profane they have reclaimed, drunkards they have reformed, and wanderers they have brought home to God. The Baptists, too, and the missionaries from the Atlantic country, seeing such a wide and open field before them, labor with great diligence and earnestness, operating generally upon another class of the commu- nity. The Catholics are botl* r.nmerous and zealous j and, perfectly united in spirit and interest, form a compact phalanx, and produce the effect of moral union. From their united exertions it happens, that over 'i'H(^ iit soa. The barren nnil boundless e,\|)anso of waters soon lirts u))om every eye, but ii Heainiin's. And tlien tliero arc Hlonns, and the ru;ces.sity of Castenin;? the tables, and of holding? to sonuftliiii'/, to ker]» in bed. There is the insupportable nausea of sea sickness, and lliere is (hnf,'er. Here you aie always near the shon>, always see the f,Meen earlh; can always eat, write and study undisturbed. You can always obtain cream, fowls, veyetajjles, fruit, fresh meat, and wild jjanie, in their season, from the shore. A stranf,'cr to this mode of travelliii<,' would find it dillicult to describe his impressions upon descendin^f the JMissisdippi for tlie lirst time m one of these steam boats, which we liave named. He contemplates the pro- digious construction, with its double tiers of cabins, and its separate establishment for the ladies, and its conunodious arrangements for the deck passengers and tiie servants. Over head, about him, and below him, uU is life and movement. lie contemplates the splendor of the cabin, its beautiful finishing of the richest woods, its rich carpeting, its mirrors and fine furniture, its sliding tabh's, its bar room, and all its arrangements for tlio accommodation of a hundred cabin i)assengers. The fare is sumptuous, and every thing in a style of splendor, ortler and (juiel, far exceeding most city taverns. You read, converse, walk, or sleep, as you choose. You are not burdened by the restraint of useless ceremony. The varied and verdant scenery shifts about you. The trees, the green islands, the houses on tlie shore, every thing has an appearance, as by enchdntmenl, of moving past you. Tiie river fowl, with their white and extended lines, are wheeling their flight above you. The sky is bright. The river is dotted with boats above, beside, and below you. You liear the echo of their bugle reverberating from the woods. Behind the wooded point you see the ascending column of smoke, rising over the trees, whicli announces, that another steam boat is approaching you. The moving pageant glides through a narrow passage, between an island, thick set with young cotton woods, so even, so beautiful, and regular, that they seem t- Iiave been planted for a pleasure ground, and the main shore. As you shoot out again into the broad stream, you come in view of a plantation, with all its busy and cheerful accompaniments. At other times you are sweeping along for many leagues together, where eitlier shore is a boundless and pathless wilderness. A contrast is thus strongly forced upon the mind, of the highest improvement and the latest pre-emi- nent invention of art with the most lonely aspect of a grand but desolate nature, — the most striking and complete assemblage of splendor and comfort, the cheerfulness of a floating hotel, which carries, iicrhaps, hundreds of guests, with a wild and uninhabited forest, it may be an hun- dred miles in width, the abode only of bears, owls and noxious animals The connni Ked rii of circ boa tab! Tennes cornmu gulf of canal, c the wes birth, an on our I New Orl all her h into vic\ witJi hci nor com] The wh( region b) greater ir We an the tonna Civil more pro: had a dird the discoi sippi; the western c| first settle of the rej the Indial admissior boats; thj subsequed The fir] sippi was Leon, in allured b^ those, wl ( iMi. iiryroiiv. 15U describe c in uiio the pro- Hepuratc I for the tluw hun, cabin, its irrora and its for the mptuous, •xceedin;,' u choose, 'lie varied hmds, tlic hantnient. ded lines, he river is the echo )(lud point ees, which lie moving , thick set , that they lain shore. I view of a At other rhere either lus strongly •st pre-emi- lUt desolate lendor and !S, perhaps, 1 bo an hun- us animals Tho MiH.sissippi may be fairly ron^idcri^l, as the yr^md trunk uf walrT connniinicafiuii, am! the Mi-^istairi, illiiidi;-', Oliio, Wliitc, Alliatl^'a.s and Red rivers, lii*! main arteries. I'acli nf llieae njjaiii Iiiih its own nyst«'ni of circulation. To tlio jaken, and the iinnienf«! di.Mfnnces of the lii;ihest boatnble waters of thn Alleghany, Mouonu'aheh, Kenlnwa, Cmnlirrland, Tennessee, Ya/oo, Mississippi, Missouri., Arkansas and lied river.s, add communications with ;dl the shores and rivers of the nortlieni lakrs, the niilf of St. Lawrence, and the Atlantic seaboard by the Ohio and Eri(! canal, and the I'eunsylvi.nia ca!iid; and the numerous cotme\i<»ns of all the western boatablc! wati'is by canals, to uliicli those v.ill naturally j/ivo birth, and we may safely assert, that this valley is a sample entirely by itself on our globe of the ease and extent of inland water communications. New Orleans can not have less than '1(),()()() miles of interior navi/^'ation on all her lakes, bayous, and hundreds of beatable streams; without takinj^ into view the added extent of the northern hdvcs, which will be connected with her by tlie Ohio canal. For water communication t^lie has no rival nor compeer; and she may be justly denominated the ([ueen of rivers. The whole western country is as stronfrly marked olf from any other region by the number and extent of its navigable waters, as it is by tho greater magnitude of its valley. Wo annex the subjoined table, as n complete list of tho names and the tonnage of the steam boats at present on the western waters.* Civil Histohy. Our plan only admits a very brief summary of the more prominent points of those events, which may be supiwsed to have had a direct bearing upon the progress of the West. It will touch upon the discovery and settlement of Florida, and the country on the Missis- sippi; the first settlement of the eastern extremity of the valley by tho western extension of Pennsylvania and Virginia over the mountains; the first settlement of Tennessee and Kentucky ; those incidents in the war of the revolution, that occurred in the West; the settlement of Ohio; the Indian war, which ensued upon that settlement; the successive admission of the western states into the union; the first use of steam boats; the events of the late war, which happened in the west; and its subsequent improvement and prosperity. The first discovery and settlement of the country west of the Missis- sippi was by a Spanish squadron from Cuba, commanded by Ponce de Leon, in 1512. Successive Spanish adventurers visited the country, allured by the hope of finding a visionary spring, which was to sustain those, who drank of it in perpetual youth ; or the same harvest of golden *See Appendix, table No. VIII. ,<:,.*' ^-yf^pfv^^ foinKf^Bam^i^fsmex IGO MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. treasures with their counlrymcn in Mexico and Peru. The Country though not fertile, abounded in fish and game, and witli tribes of fierce savages. Vasqucz, Narvaez, and Soto successively visited, and surveyed tlic country. The French commenced a small settlement near St. Au- gustine, in 1504. It was cruelly destroyed by the Spaniards. The establishment, which they left in place of it, was in turn destroyed by tlie Frcncli. The settlement of Canada commenced in 1008, and speedily became a strong and populous colony. The honor of having discovered the Mississippi, is claimed both by the Spanish and the French. Marquette and Jolicttc, two French missioners in 1703 were probably the first Europeans, who exploied the river. La Salle, a year or two afterwards, followed their track from Canada, built a vessel called the Griffin on the lake, with which he tlVMi insTouv. 163 to connect tlicir settlomeiits in (Jiuiada anil liOiiiriiiinn, they liad estab- lished a fort at the junction ol" Ihc Alle«.rhany and Monon^'aheia. In 17{)3 this establishment fell into the hands of lh«i English,'ind its name was clianged from fort Dnqnesno to F(nt Pitt, Tlic convenience and importance of its position soon attracted a considerable number of inhab- itants. Red Stone, now Brownsville, iKMfan the settlements on tho Monongahela. These two towns were the nuelei:s of the establishments in West Pennsylvania and Virginia. As early as 1750, tlie Frenchjiad established some small posts on the Alabama, Tombigbec and Teinicsscc rivers. In 1757, the English built fort Loudon on the north bank of the Liitle Tennessee, near the mouth of Tellico river. Tlic object w;is to secr.ro the fertile valley of the Ten- nessee against the occn])ation of the French, as an asylum for American immigrants; and to defend the frontier settlements against the invasions of the savages. In 1760, this fort was takcui by the Cherokoes; and three hundred men, women and children were slain, and all the angle American inhabitants of Teimesscc destroyed. In 1701 colonel Grant led a strong force into tho Cherokee country, chastised the savages, and compelleil lliem to sue for peace. From that time immigrants from Pennsylvania and Virginia began to find their way into the country, and to name the mountains and rivers. Tliese hunters and adventurers broadened the circle of population, and gradually pene- trated into the interior of Fast Tennessee. The first settlement of Tennessee and Kentucky were nearly cotcmpo- raneous. The name of the famous Dajiiel Boone is identified with the discovery and settlement of both. Kentucky was first exi>lored by Finley from North Carolina in 1707. Finley, Boone, Ilarrod and Logan arc among the conspicuous names of tho hardy primitive adventurers into this fertile wilderness. Sevier, Tipton and Blonnt hold the same rank among the precursors in the settlement of Teiuiessee. Few colonies have existed, that can produce aiuials of deeper interest, than those which record the origiji and progress of these states. The patriarchal pioneers of these backwoodsmen, were people of a [leculiar and remarkable order, trained by circumstances to a character, which united force, hardihood, and energy in an astonishing degree. Opinion has generally invested liiem with a predominance of rough traits, and rustic habits approximating the character of the Indians. They were in fact as much distinguished by an aiuph; bnsis of gentlemanly character, and chivalrous notions of honor and justice, as for strength, firmness and bravery. There is an indescribable chavni in becoming intimately acquainted with these noble founders of the onpin; of the west, from their first fix ? .1, ,-*^A. ^ mf, -Cj- 164 MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. t ing their families in the selected spot in thfc forest, through their conflicts with the Indians, the difficulties incident to solitude, distance from all social comforts, and exposuro to all the dangers of a strange climate; until their cabins arc reiihiccd hy Iiouses, and their houses by mansions; until their stations arc converted to villages and the villages to towns; and until these sparse bcgiiniings in the unexplored wilderness full of savages and wild beasts become powerful states. Imagination would recoil from the dreary uniforinily of these early annals, in recording Indian assaults, burnings, murders, and all the ruthless manifestations ofunpity- ingand unsparing savage vengeance, were not the picture relieved by the reckless heroism of the undaunted spirits, that put a strong and cheerful hand to the first improvements, every moment surrounded by these savages. Four counties were constituted by law in Kentucky in 178.3. Boons- borough, Ilarrodsburg, Limestone, now Maysville, Louisville, and Lexington were among the earliest and most conspicuous foundations in Kentuf'ky. Knoxville and Naslivillc sustain the same relation to the early history of Tennessee, the former being settled in 1782, and the latter in 1784. Among the records of Indian assault and revenge the severest disaster in the history of the settlement of Kentucky is that of the defeat of the Kentuckians at the Blue Licks in 1782, in which sixty- one were slain and eight made prisoners. The first newspaper printed in Kentucky was printed at Lexington August 1787. As early as 1785, the people of Kentucky began to discuss the expe- diency of becoming an independent state. No little difficulty occurred in settling the preliminary arrangements, and obtaining the unqualified assent of Virginia, the parent state. In pursuing measures to become an independent state, Tennessee found more difficulty than Kentucicy. Beside the same opposition from North Carolina, as Kentucky encountered from Virginia, the people were divided among themselves. A portion of the inhabitants, who wished to establish a state indcpcndent'of the consent of North Carolina, the parent state, constituted themselves into a republic called Frankland. After an inefficient war of words with the authorities of North Carolina, and after some blood had been spilt in the cause, the new republic was merged in the state of Tennessee, which was admitted into the union in 1796. The annals of East and West Tennessee, present a dreary series of Indian murders, sometimes of individuals, sometimes of whole fami- lies down to as late a period, as three or four years after the establish- ment of the federal government. Imagination can scarcely realize, tliat in this great and powerful state, now so prominent a member of the con- federacy, the Indian war whoop and the shrieks of assailed women and ^' .« CIVIL IIISTOIIY. 1G5 cliiltlrcn were heard, and the blaze of housv^s and settlements, wliiclitlio Indians had fired, were seen, after the year 1700, and in districts, wliero Indians are now as seldom soon, as in Washington or Philadelphia. The first Tennessee newspaper was printed at Rogcrs\ illo, ia November 1791. It was called the Knoxville Gazette. The most prominent trait of character in the people of tliese two states from the commencement was a sturdy spirit of independence, and the most vigilant jealousy of their rights. These traits were abundantly put forth in their discussions with tlicir parent states, touching the qucslicn of their separation; in tlic guarded manner in which tliey weighed the extent, the right and influence of federal jurisdiction, and in their extreme sus])icion, touching tlie manner, in which congress vindi- cated their claims to the free navigation of the Mississippi. Tiie commencement of the great state of Ohio, at present the fourth in point of size in the Union, and completing the chain of population be- tween the eastern and western divisions of the settled portion of this valley, was of still more recent date. The progress of this great state !ias no parallel in the history of colonies, in point of advancement in na- tional wealth, population, strength and improvement of every kind. Forty years since, it was in the occupation of savages. It now numbers a million of inhabitants, a hundred and thirty thousand militia, two canals, one over three hundred miles in length, one considerable and rapidly advancing city, a great number of towns, and a hundred populous villa- ges. Handsome houses are springing up every year. Large manufjic- turing establishments, arc constantly arising, emulating the same order of things in the Atlantic country. A mass of farmers is spread over the whole state, rich in rural abundance, in simplicity of manners, and the materials of genuine independence. Of its schools, colleges, manufacto- ries and national improvements, any state, liowever advanced in im- provement, might be proud. All this progress has been from an innate principle of vigor, without the forcing aid of speculation, opulence, or power; and is a triumph so recently won from the forest, that on all sides we still see the remains of the original trees in the fields. The order of settlement in this state, as iffasliioned from that of the Mississippi valley, commenced almost at the same time in its eastern and western extremities. As Franco claims tlie paternity of the settle- ments along the course of the ]\lissisyip])i, and North Carolina and Vir- ginia, of Kentucky and Tennessee, Oliio may be considered iheoflspring of New England and New Jersey. The famous wagon which cavr'ed out the first settlers from Massachusetts to Ohio, started in 1788. General Putnam and Dr. Cutler may be estimated the pioneers of the settle- ment of Marietta. u 166 MISSISSIPPI A ALLEV. b Judge Symmes, with a number of settlers from New York, New Jer- sey and and western Pennsylvania commenced the settlement between the two Miamies, as tiie point, which is now Columbia, in November 1789. Fort Washington was established on the present site of Cincinnati in the same year. This establishment was the germ of the town, wliich was originally called Losantiville. liudlow, Filson, Denman and Patter- son were the original purchasers of the town plat. In 1789 the settlement numbered twenty log cabins, two marriages were celebrated, and the first child was born. Tlie first court was organized in 171)0, and the name of the place changed to Cincinnati. The settlements, thus commenced at Marietta and Cincinnati, rapidly extended on every side, until checked by the Indian war in 1701. From that period commenced the same gloomy and uniform series of Indian massacres, assaults and burnings, that signalized the beginnings of ail the American settlements. The disastrous campaign of General St. Clair for a while arrested the progress of the settlements. ]\Iany of the inhabitants of Cincinnati were killed in tliat campaign, and many other settlers moved for security into Kentucky, wliich had attained a compact- ness of population to be fearless of Indian assault. The glorious cam- paign of Wayne succeeded; and an end was put to tliis sanguinary warflire in 1795. From this time, there was a rush of immigration towards the Ohio valley. The wonderful tale of western exuberance once more circulated with effect along the wliole rango- of the Atlantic country. It was no longer counterbalanced by the dread of the Indian scalping knife. All the great roads of approach to the western country were crowded with adventurers directing their course towards the land of promise; and fleets of boats were continually floating them down the Ohio. The setiJements diverged from Marietta on the one hand, and Cincinnati on the other towards the height of land between the OJiio and the lakes. Connecticut Reserve was settled chiefly from Connecticut. The ex- traordinary fertility of the Scioto valley early attracted inhabitants. The country on the Great Miami, from Cincinnati to Dayton, and thence to Urbanna soon became populous; and the great outline of the state of Ohio rapidly filled with inhabitants, and ihc noiseless and powerful march of industry transformed the silence of the forest to cultivation, farms, villages and towns. The first territorial legistaturc met at Cincinnati in 1709. Repre. seniatives from Detroit and Kaskaskias, eight hundred miles apart, were present. The act of Congress admitting Ohio into the union, was passed in 1801; and in 1803, the present constitution of the state went into operation. CIVIL IllsTOltV. 107 ssr It rilioulil liiivc sooinod, that lliis vast country of forests and pralriea ill tli(^ iafciior of tli(; continent, so rccontly and sparsely settled, ought !ico, ns regarded the quarrels of the diflfcrcnt Kuropoan cohmi.sts, succeeded. During this peace, the western Indians, if they did not share it, were in some degree restrained in Uie extent of their assaults and ravages; and tlic western forests and prairies were peopling in silence by Europeans, or their descendants. At the dose of this interval, coiuiuencod the war of the American revolution. TJie French and Spanisli, in these remote colonies, were soon drawn into tlio contest. Tho Spanish, as the allies of the French, made their first cllbrt against thu British Colony of Florida, their ancient possession. Galvez, tho Spanish governor of Louisinna, assailed Baton Rouge with two thousand three hundred men, aided by battering cannon. The British garrison of five hundred men was obligc-d to surrender. Flushed by this success, in 1780 ho fitted out a nival expedition against Mobile, which also surrendered to his forces. A formidable Spanisli llect, vvitli twelve thousand troops on board, soon after sailed from Cuba, to attempt the recapture of the whole province of Florida; and, although the fleet exi)cricnced the most signal disasters from sickness and storms, Pensacola was taken from the British, and the whole province was conquered. Upper Louisiana was little aflbctcd by this war, until near its close. In 1780 an exi)edition of Englisli and Indians from Canada by way of the lakes assailed the peaceful French establishments in Missouri. St. Louis was taken, plxty of the inhabitants slain, and thirty made prisoners. The French of that vicinity still distinguish that disastrous event by the era of Pannce du coup. They were delivered from tiieir invaders by a respectable force under the command of the gallant American General Clark. The expedition under this veteran commander had been fitted out chiefly by Virginia, and ordered into these distant regions to repel the invasion of the English and Indians as (ax as possible from her frontiers, which were supposed to be the whole western country. General Clark descended the Ohio with a regiment of infantry and a troop of cavalry. Part of his force marched by land from Louisville, and in the endurance of incredible hardships, advanced through the swamps and ices of the drowned lands of the Wabash, and met the other part of the force, that had made its way down the Ohio and up the Wabash by water, before Vincennes, which was in possession of a considerable British force. That force, completely sur- prised, surrendered at discretion, and suffered a severe retaliation for 22 ^, ^v % 170 i»iississipri VAM.r.Y. |i tlioir cnicltios. Gcncml Clark unkfinncllrxl il»o s.ivn^Ts from Iheir lurk- ing places in tlicso qurrtors, and carriod ilio American .standard in triumph to the Mississippi. Tiio invadinjjr forces sent from Canada against St. [iOuis, sliriink from conflict wi)Ii tiio American General, dis- persed and made llieir way b;ick as lliey could, to Ciinada. In 1780 on llic mountains, that separate iNorlh Carolina from Tennes- see, was fought llio gallant halllo of King's Mountain, in which the backwoods men of Kentucky and Tcmicssco had so glorious a share. Few actions on record have hern more lierccly contested. The British repeatedly charged the mountaineers with fixed bayonets. Ferguson, the British commander, was slain. The enemy left one hundred and fifty on the field; six hundred and ten were made prisoners, and fifteen hun- dred stand of arms were taken. Only four hundred and forty of the foe escaped. Colonels McDowell, Camhell, Shelby, Sevier, in a word, every goldier and ofTicer gained in that battle imperishable honor. No victory could have had a more auspicious influence upon the incipient settlements in Kentucky and Tennessee. The peace of 1788 left the country on tlie Ohio and Mississippi free from all other conllicts, but tlic unremitting hostility of the savages. Relieved from one form of apprehension, the western settlers soon met another. The right to navigate the Mississippi, the great wes- tern canal of export and import, was refused to the Americans by the Spanish authorities of Louisiana. This became a fruitful source of dispute and re-crimination. The inhabitants of Kentucky and Tennes- see, jealous of their rights, and not satisfied with the ellbrts of Congress to procure them redress, seemed strongly disposed to take justice into their own hands. There appears to have been no less than five distinct parties among them at this time. The first advocated an independent government in the west, and a commercial treaty with Spain. The second proposed to annex Kentucky to Louisiana. This party was fostered by Spanish intrigue and gold. The third proposed to make war with Spain, and seize Louisiana. A fourth party sustained the American confederation, and proposed to extort the free navigation of the Mississippi by the menace of an invasion of Louisiana. The fifth wished Louisiana to return under French sway, and that Kentucky should make part of it. The fires of discord between these parties were fanned by the English, Spanish and French, according to their respective views. But a new element of political influence was beginning to be felt. It was the course, alike wise, firm and conciliating, of the federal government, which shortly merged all these interests in the overwhelming preponderance of genuine «<* «t'-'^' ..l!^^'^ .A A ^ ■tiK,' ^^ .4 t'lVIL lirSTOUV. 171 American loy.ilfy. Tlio Spniiisli froaty of 17!)5 wns llio result, which, after a scries of nllnrrulioiis iiml diHicuIties by tlic SpaiiiMh coinmissioncr, went into quiet eU'ect in 171W. The western Indians had /,'enerally taken part with Great Britain in the war of tiio revoUition. Alarmed at the flood of iininij.miti()n, which poured into the western country on the return of peace, they still kept up the war on their own account. The southern Indians, under McGillivsay, were quieted hy a treaty; hut tho northern Indians stubbornly resisted all cflbrts at pacification. General Ilarniar was sent against them with a considerable force. Some hard lighting with doubt- ful success succeeded. Next year General St. Clair was sent ngninst them, with a still larger force. Tho Indians attacked him, November 1702, not far from tho Miami villages. A severe and fatal battle for tho Americans ensued. They were completely routed, and more than six hundred men, including thirty eight oftlcers slain. The wounded, many of whom died, exceeded two hundred and sixty. It was the severest disaster, which had befallen the American arms in the west. It gave new extent and energy to the scalping knife. In tho investigation of this bloody aft'air, which took place before Congress, it was proved, that between 1783 and 1790, fifteen hundred inhabitants of Kentucky had been massacred, or made prisoners by the Indians ; and an equal number on the frontiers of Pennsylvania and Virginia, and that one hundred and twenty persons had been killed, or made prisoners, a number of whom had been burned at the stake, during thirty days, in which the Indians were proposing to make a treaty. This disaster and these representations eflectually aroused the people. General Wayne was sent against the Indians. His collected force ex- ceeded three thousand men. lie attacked the combined Indians, and gained a memorable and complete victory. The fugitives took shelter under the guns of a British fort. General Wayne justly treated thu commander of the fort, and the traders sheltered in it, who had obviously supplied the Indians with arms, provisions and amunition, with very little ceremony, burning their stores and their corn, and driving them to the security of the range of their own guns. In August 1702, a general treaty witli the Indians was concluded, and tiic desolating horrors of Indian warfare were brought to an end. This peace, so auspicious to the progress of the West, was soon followed by internal dissentions. The first extention of the federal sway was regarded with suspicion in various parts of the union. Congress had passed a law imposing duties on spirits distilled in the United States. This law was peculiarly obnoxious to the people of west Pennsylvania. A decided and systematic opposition to government was organized. '■f."* m ■/ 1 '\i 1 Iff ./"- !,-?',• ^< n,i MISHIhtHll'IM >AM.i:V. .i Civil procotwfiH iiiHiiiulid undrr lli:it ^^'ovcriinitjiit wrrc icsiKttxI. The mursliul ut Piltslnir^'li imd (itinriil NcvilN', in whose; hoiisu ho look shelter, wcro Koi/od, and olhcrwiHo Irc.ilcd with violtucc, to omcuikj which, they made their rctroat down the Ohio. The govcrnmont conduclcd wiui pi(li( iisioii The pndessed nbjcct of thin mad expedition waa to()ccii|)y and t^ettli; a laiye purehaso of lands on tlio Washita. His real purpose, founded on erroneous views of the disloyally of (ho West, was juoliably, to detach it from tlio confederacy, and estahlish aii empire for Ijimscif Somc! persons were arrested, as accomplices with Burr, nmonmjttly on the field of battle. Commodore Patterson in thi schooner ( u'oline opened a destructive fire upon thcni. After a warm action, necessarily involved in much confusion from the late hour, in which it was connuenced, and from the ignorance of boili forces of the ground, and of e:u'!i others positions, the British tliri«e assailed, and beaten, retired a mile. Ha!isfied with th'^ .;men, and this first result of what the British li.id to exiKct from us, and aware that the proclaim removinj the lasti an invest creased At th characte bravery can fai general . t CIVIL HISTORY. 177 British were double our numbers, General Jackson recalled his troops to their position. Our loss was 139 killed and wounded, and 74 pris oners. Tiie killed, wounded and prisoners of the enemy amounted to 400. Soon after, we had the misfortune to lose the schooner which had so severely annoyed the British. Fortunately before Ihc great battle of the eighth of January, the long expected reinforcement Irom Kentucky, am junting to 2250 men, arrived at our camp. Tlic eigiith of January dawned, and the British commenced upon our line oneof the most obstinate attacks on militnvy record. They were defeated with prodigious slaughter. T]ieir killed, wounded and prisoners exceeded 2000 men. Ahiiough ll:c British had been success- ful in an attack upon the American troops on the opposite bank of the river, compelling the American force under General Morgan to retreat, liaving lost tlieir Generals Packingham, Gibbs and Keane, tliey felt no disposition longer to contest the possession of a soil, that had been so fatal to them, and soon after embarked in their fleet. t It may well be supposed that a scene of exultation, past the power of words to describe, ensued in tlie camp, and in New Orleans. The brave troops of the west returned to tlicir homes covered with imperishable honors, to hand down the story of tlicir achievements to their children. In making this glorious defence of the shores of the gulf of Mexico, and in gaining these victories, General Jackson was obliged to resort to the strong measures of military decision and promptness. We have not space, in which to array the innumerable difficulties, he had to encoun- ter from a country, but recently accustomed to American rule, peopled to a considerable degree with inliabitants of another language and na- tion, the want of arms, the numercial weakness of his force, and his great distance from ade(iuate reinforcements and supplies. The brevity of our sketch accords with our inclination in excluding us from any dis- cussion of the necessity of many of the measures, to which he had resorted; and from questioning the grounds of a reaction of public feel- ing, which occurred on the return of tranquillity. His conduct in proclaiming martial law, and suspending the privilege of habeas corpus, removing some suspected citizens, and punishing some deserters with the last rigor of martial law, underwent a severe investigation, at the time, an investigation which subsequent circumstances have renewed with in- creased asperity. P At this day, however different may be the estimate of the political character of general Jackson, no one can fail to do justice to his wisdom, bravery and good conduct in the prosecution of this campaign. No one can fail to admit, that the emergencies of the case called for such a general, and that weak and vacillating meafures could scarcely have failed 23 i.! 'ft i "J J '1 A, * r r-n ' ' m f 1 ~^: , '. ' ?,ii ■.' "it li J ■ .. f ^ 4n| ir . .'I'l 178 :mis.sissippi v\i,i,ev. to have lost the country. On the IJith of the month, peace was officially announced in the camp. On llio 2 1th, (Jeiieral Jackson was prosecuted for contempt of court at the suitof Judfrc 1 Tall, and was cast in a fine of a thousand dollars. General fooling in view of the sentence was mani- fested hy the citizens. Il was proposed to give puhlicity to that feeling by paying the fine by volunlnry contribution. Jt was no sooner meditated than done. So numerous were the citizens, wlio desired to contribute, tliat the entire sum was raised in. a few minutes. The general, under- standing what was agitated, sought the marshal, paid the fine, and avoided an obligation, which his feelings would not allow him to incur. Previous to breaking up his cainp, he issued an imjjrcssive and affec- tionate address to his brave companions in arms, and w-as soon on his way to his home. Grateful and affectionate honors awaited him every where, and most of all at home, where he was welcomed by a reception from his fellow citizens, that must have been more ^tlightful, than all hi? previous triumphs. The close of the war, as might be expected produced a general pacifi- cation of the savages on our whole frontier. It was obvious to intellects less vigorous than theirs, that if they had the worst of liie contest, when aided by all the power of Britain and the coun^'^nance of the Spanish, they could have little hope, of continuing the contest with us single handed. Profound peace was soon restored to all our borders, from the northeast to the southwest frontier. The tide of immigration which had been arrested during the war, set more strongly towards the western country for having been so long kept back. Shoals of mimigrants were seen on all the great roads leading in that direction. Oleanne, Pittsbrrgh, Brownsville, Wheeling, Nashville, Cincinnati, and St. Louis overflowed with Ihcm. Ohio and Indiana beheld thousands of new cabins spring up in their forests. On the borders of the solitary prairies of Illinois and Missouri, smokes were seen streaming aloft from the dwellings of recent settlers. The settlements whicl) had been broken up during the war, were re-peopled, and many immigrants returned again to the very cabins, which they had occupied before the war. Boon's-Iick and Salt river, in Missouri, were the grand points of immigration, as were tlie Sangama and the upper courses of the Kaskaskias, in Illinois. In the south, Ala- bama filled with new habitations, and flie current, not arrested by the Mississippi, set over its banks, to Wiiite river, Arkansas, and Louisiana, west of that river. The wandering jiropcnsity of the American people carried hundreds even beyond our territorial limits into the Spanisii country. — Wagons, servants, cattle, sheep, swine, horses, and dogs, wore seen passing with the settlers, bound to innnense distances up the long rivers. To fix an Imndrcd miles from another settler was deemed no in- couveniencg. the ICf. The t these legislc learn ; two or track Mes tide b( indica curren that tl few o Welu count tempi ceival CIVir. HISTORY. 179 Tliis flood ofimmigranls of course increased tlio amount of transport, and gave now impulse lo c'lterpriseofcvevy sort. Lands rose al)ovc Iheir value, and spoculatitm in tlicin becam-; a raging epidemic. Money, put in circulation by tlie sale of lands, Jibounded in the country. To\vn making, steam boat building, — in short, every species of speculation was carried to a ruinous excess. JMercniitile importations filled the country with foreign goods. There were no reasonable foundations to the schemes and no limits to tlie extravagance of the [)coiile. To give a more fatal extension and efficacy to tlie mania of speculation, banks were multiplied in all the little towns and villages of tJje West, whose spurious paper, not predicated on banking principles, nor based u])on capital, answered tlie turn of speculation, as long as the excitement of confidence lasted. The consequence of all this was, that huids rose to double and triple their natural value, and were bo'.iglit up by speculators. One good effect re- sulted from the general mischief. Jmjjrovcments, which would never have been contemplated, in anotlicv state of things, multiplied. Towns were built up with good and pcrnnncnt houses. In three years from the close of the war, things had received a new face along the great water courses, and in all the favorable points of the interior. New states and territories grew out of this order of things, like the prophet's gourd. In building up legislation and municipal order, the scramble of strangers recently brought in contiguity, for the new offices, introduced much bustle -md (juarrelling. All the legislators were not Solons. A great many 'forward and plunging young men, whose only qualifications for their grc^t work, were vanity and confidence, composed the legislatures. Of course a thousand monstrous projects were hatched. The teaching of the past history and experience, were not the guides of these coniident legislate s The evils, that soon resulted from such legislation, gradually worked their own cure. The people were slow to learn; but in most of the states and territories, after taking lessons for two or three years, they did learn; and returned to the safeand ancient track of history, example and experience. Meanwhile, this unnatural state of things could not last long. The tide began to ebb, and things to settle to their natural level. The first indication of thi'5 change was, the failure of the banks, at first as rare oc- currences; but these failures soon become so numerous and common, that the paper, except of the banks of Louisiana, Mississippi, and a very few of the interior banks, became as useless as any other wrapping paper. We have not the data for calculating the amount of loss in the western country; und patience a.id moderation of feeling would fail us, in con- templating the enormous mischiefs of legislative swindling. An incon- ceivable fjuantjty of paper pcrislied, not in the hands of the speculators, T^ ' '^i'^-' ■'' 'i 's ||!| 1 ■ f V ■* ^.W: )"! i \\T sJyJ' , '^vm 'm ' ^ ^ S*i •\ ,' i'^'U 1 ' Mi 1 Ul 1 tilfl -fir ■'WW-."Pfill»i. '^1 ^w- *Twr i^*»ii ' ^Tr^r, improvement and si)lendor of states to the germ of their inception. .H(»w few traces, hy Which to gratify this interest, remain. To the greater number of even western readers a faithfid picture of the primitive habitations of the country, and the result of the first eflbrts of agriculture presents a view of things already gone by. Our ideas of the first cabins of the Puritans at Plymouth, their first planting and garden- ing, their first social intercourse and festivities, by which they solaced their solitude and privations, arc but dim and uncertain imaginings. Even these memorials of the beginnings of the French in Illinois and Louisiana are fist perishing unrecorded from vision and memory. But the chief utility, which we hope from the following sketch, is to enable the reader, who contemplates l)Ccoming an immigrant, to acquaint himself in advance with some of the circumstances of his undertaking, and to anticipate what he may be called to do, enjoy, or suflfer. We would bo glad to furnish him with some elements, on which to settle the expediency of immigration in advance ; by showing him in con- trast some of its intrinsic advantages and disadvantages. If a just balance could be struck between the actual enjoyment of those, who live, and die in the old settled portions of the country, and those, who emi- grate, and settle in tlic wilderness, every actual immigrant will admit, that it would be far from being an abstract discussion of the nature and chances of happiness. The advantnges and disadvantages of emigration in the abstract are partly physical, partly moral. The inducements to it arise, with most of our actions, from mixed rriotives. The greater part of the European emigrants, particularly the Germans, flying from poverty and oppression, come to the West with the unmixed motives to become free land holders, and to purchase cheap and rich lands. But the case is otherwise with the far greater portion of tliose, who emigrate from the old states of our own country. Imagination exercises more influence even upon minds >. It i m •r^ m iMiHSHHirri VAi.i.r.Y. tlio most un(duc:it«'(l, tli;m \\r nro nvuly to suppose. Tlioro it) no iMTsoM, .'iboiit to pliu-c liiiiisrir ill II iviiintr tiiitl ttiilriod position, Ixil will IiikI on rxiiiniiiatioii, licit lli(> new .mcimic, viewed in aiitiei|>;ition, is in- V( a»eid(Mds o( climate, new hopes, in n word, of ehasinu; «h)wn, in a new and fir eounfiy, that phantom of oiir desin^s, always pursued in ihiii^s without us, and never found oxoept vilhin us, happiness? After the lonjr vexed question whether to remove or not, is settled, Ity consulliny friends, travellers and hooks, the next slep is to select the route, niul arranye the preparations for it. The univei-sality and cheapness of steam hoat and canal passa/ji' and iransporl, have caused, that more than half thiMvhole lunnlx-r of iuuiiiuraiils iinw arrive in llie West by water. This remark a])plies lo nim* tenths of those that come from Europe and the northern stales. 'I'hey thus eseajx^ much of the exi^nso, slowness, inconvenienco and tlan^er of the anei(>iit cumlirous and tire- some journey in wajjons. 'I'hey no lon^'er experience the former vexations of incessant altercation with landlords, mutual charjTCs of dishonesty, discomfort from now luoiles of speech and reckoning money, from breaking d»)wn carriages and wearing out horses. But the steam boats niul canal boats have their disadvantages. Cast pcr- liaps for tlie firet time among a mixeil company of strangers, the bashful mother and the nueasy and curious chiliheu present an ample specimen of their domestic training; and how much they liave profited by that universal education, a "it which every one talks. But though tliey may mutually annoy, and bo . nnoyed, their curiosity is constantly excited, and gratified; their hunger al;undantly appeased; and they occasionally form i)leasant iutimaei«>s with their fellow travellers. Tf travelling be a mode of enioymeut, these unsated and uuliackneyeil travellers probably find, on the whole, a balance of enjoyment in favor of tlie journey of immigration. The chances are still more Hworablc for liic immiirrants from Virginia, tlie two Carolinas and tieorgia, wlio, from their habits and relative posi- tion, still immigrate, after the ancient fasliiou, in the southern wagon. This is a vehicle almost unknown at the north, sirong. comfortable, counnotlioui?, coataining uot only a movable kitcJieu , but provisions and ajiiitip « ■'WA r^ iMVKMJAi'roy, 18:i Ii('(Ih. Dr.iwii liy fniii or six lioisc:, il siilisorvrs nil llm v;iri«)iis iiilrntinns »if house, slirltiT :iiii| Ii;iiis|>'trl ; mid is, in l^icl, the soulliciii ship of tlie Coii'sfH iiiid |ir.iiri('H, Tlic limscs, ||i;ii ((nivcy llir \v:);^roii, ;in; l;ir;^'n Jind pdwcirid iiiiiiii d-i, fullo vrH, llio \\lin|(> (uniiiti.'f :i priiiiili\(' (••ir;iv;iii ik.i nnwuilliy dl' iiiicicnt diiys, Jiiid llio ])liiiiis of IMiimc. 'I'lic |)rucr'sh' !"< cliii'/;! oC <•()m|>al•i^ior^ llio nortlicrii l;iiiiily,\vitli flicir f li'^Iil wi/jnii, j ujcrl Ikhs s niid siilidiicd, lli()ii;^li ((;;dr)US coiiiifciiJiricc.i. Tlicir vcliiclr ;;|i/i>s; :iiid llicy Hcan llic slroii;,' suiillicrii liidk, with its chiiiKs ol" liclls, its f.il hhick (hivora und its loiijr tiuiii ol' coiicoiiiitiiiits, until lh( y li.nr swept hy. lVrli!i|)H nioic Ihiiii iiill" thi' iKiiihrin iiiiiiii^rnnts nrrivo nt jirrsoiit Ity \v:iy (•!' the ,\'c\v \'(>ik «;iii:d iiid l:iKc I'.ric. if their (Icsliniilioii bu the upper w.ilcrs ()(■ thd AV;d»;isli, they di'li:nl; !it Siiiitliisky, iMid colilinuo their roiito uitlidut Mppnujehiui; iIk; (Mii(». Tlie «rre u«'r nuiiiher muko tlieir \v;iy iVcm th(! I;dve Ik llic Ohio, either hy the IJio ii:i(l Ohio, or tliO |);iyt(M» CMiini. I''rnn« ;dl poinds, rxcept, tliose west ol" tho (iuy:iii(lot route iiiid the inlioii;)! n»;i(l, wlieii ihey nrrive ;il l!:e ( )hio, or its naviifiiblc waters, the <.rr<'aier iiMiiilnr ol" the I'miiiies M iko v/ai.'v.'' Muiiifrauts IVom I'ennsylvania w ill heMceloiward reach the ( )hi() on tlie yreat IN^nnsylvaiiia ranal, and will ' take; water'' at Pittsl)nr<;li. If bound to Indiana, llliiu)is or Missouri, they huild, or purchase a family lujat. IMany of these boats arcM'ond'ortahly filled up, and ar;; neiihcr inconvenient, nor unpleasant lloaliiiif lious<'s. Two or threi^ I'loiilies sonu;tinies (it u|) ;i. Iari.ro boat in partnership, juirchaso an 'Ohio pilot,"' a 1)0()k thai professes to instruct flieni in the mysteries of uaviifatiu'i- thi> ()hio; and ii* the Ohio be mode- rately hi;;h, and tlu; wealher p!e:iH:ml, this voyage, unalteiuled with either dilllcnlly or dau'jvr, is onlinarily a tri[) ol" pleasure. Wc need hardly add, that a t. Louis, or St. Charles, in the \i(iiilly of the points, where they liad auliciiiitc'd to ii.'w tWmsdvcs, a javIiiuiiKny dilHculiy, and one of 21 .,%..- £. o *li^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 150 ^^^" H^^H Ut 122 |22 iM 12.0 U8 u 11.25 1111.4 6" 1.6 I Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STIEET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSM (716)S72-4503 \ » 4 ^ <> ;\ 186 % .Mississjirri VALiiKV. difficult solution is, to (Icierinino to what quarlcr to repair. All tlic towns swarm with speculating coni[)aiiies aiul hind agents; and the chance is, that the first inquiries for iuformalion in this perplexity will be addressed to them, or to persons wlio liave a common understanding and interest with them. Tiic published information, too, comes directly or indirectly from them, in furtherance of their views. One advises to the Wabash, and points on the mnj) to the rich lands, fine mill scats, navigable streams and growing towns in tlieir vicinity. Another presents a still more alluring picture of the land,^ in some part of Illinois, Missouri, the region west of the lakes, and the lead mines. Anodier tempts him with White River, Arkansas, Red River, Opelousas, and Attakapas, tiie rich crops of cotton and sugar, and the escape from winter, which they offer. Still another company has its nets set in all the points, where immigrants congregate, blazoning all the advantages of Texas, and the Mexican country. In Cincimiati, more tJian in any other town, there are generally precursors from all points of the compass, to select lands for companies, that are to follow. Tlicre arc sucli here at present both from Europe and New England ; and we read advertiscnaents, that a thousand persons are shortly to meet at St. Louis to form a company to cross the Rocky Mountains, with a view to select settlements on the Oregon. When this slow and perplexing process of balancing, comparing and fluctuating between the choice of rivers, districts, climates and advanta- ges, is fixed, after determination has vibrated backwards and forwards according to the persuasion and eloquence of the last adviser, until the purpose of the immigrant is fixed, the northern settler is generally borne to the point of debarkation, nearest his selected spot, by water. He thence hires the transport of his family and movables to the spot; though not a few nortliern emigrants move all the distance in wagons. The whole number from the north far exceeds that from tlie south. But they drop, in noiseless quietness, into their position, and the rapidity of their progress in settling a country is only presented by the startling results of the census. The southern settlers who immigrate to Missouri and the country south west of the Mississippi, by their show of wagons, flocks and rmmbers create observation, and are counted quite as numerous, as they are. Ten viragons are often seen in company. It is a fair allowance, that a hundred cattle, beside swine, horses and s! ecp, and six negroes accompany each. The train, with the tinkling of an hundred bells, and the negroes, wearing the delighted expression of a holiday suspension from labor in their countenances, forming one groiij), and the family slowly moving forward, forming another, as (he whole is nQen advancing along the plains, it presents a pleasiiig and picturesque spectacle. •V '^' I / IMMK; RANTS. 187 Tliey make arrangements at niulit i'lll to halt at a spring, Avhcre tliere IS wood and water, and a green Kward for eneampmcnt. The dogs raise their accustomed domestic baying. The teams arc unharnessed, and the cattle and horses turned loose info the grass. The blacks are busy in spreading the cheerful taldc in tlic wilderness, and preparing the supper, to which the appetite of fatigue gives zest. They talk over the incidents of the past day, and anticipate tliosc of the morrow. If wolves and owls are heard in the distance, these desert soimds servo to render the contrast of their society and security more sensible. In this order they plunge deeper and deeper into tl:e forest or prairie, until they have found tlie place of their rest. The position for a cabin generally selected by the western settlers is a gentle eminence near a spring, or what is called a branch, central to a spacious tract of fertile land. Such spots are generally occupied by tulip and black walnut trees, intermixed with the beautiful comusflorida and red bud, the most striking llowiring ylirnhs of the western forest. Springs burst forth in the intervals between the high and low grounds. The brilliant red bird seen (lifting among the shrubs, or perched on a tree, in its mellow whistle seems welcoming the immigrant to his new abode. Flocks of paroquets are glittering among the trees, and gray squirrels are skipping from brancli to branch. The chanticleer rings his echoing note among the woods, and the domestic sounds and the baying of the dogs produce a strange cheerfulness, as heard in the midst of trees> where no habitation is seen. I'leiisiug rcfleciions and liappy associations' are naturally connected with the coutcmplation of these Ijeginnings of social toil in the wilderness. In tlic midst of these solitary and primeval scenes the patient and labori- ous father fixes his family. In a few days a comfortable cabin and other out buildings are erected. The first year gives a plentiful crop of corn, and common and sweet potatoes, melons, squashes, turnips and other garden vegetables. The next year a field of wheat is added, and lines of thrifty apple trees show among the deadened trees. If tlie immigrant possess any touch of horticultural taste, the finer kinds of pear, plum, cherry, peach, nectarine and apricot trees are found in the garden. In ten years the log buildings will all have disappeared, the shrub and forest trees will be gone. The arcadian aspect of humble and retired abundance and comfort will have given place to a brick house, or a planted frame house, with fences and out buildings very like those, that surround abodes in the olden countries. It is a wise arrangement of provii»y chiklren about them; with tlie ample abundance of their ;.Maii;iiioH; Uieir liihilatioii ,siiii(>niided by orchards, the branches of which must be propped \o on-^l.tiu tlieir Iruil, beside their beautiful streams and cool beach woods, and the prospect of settling,' each of their children on similar farms directly around them. Their manners may have somethinj^ of the roni^'hness imparted by living in solitude among the trees; but it is kindly, hos[)itable, frank, and associa- ted witli the traits, that constitute the st;il)ility of our republic. Wo apprehend, such farmers would hardly be willing to exchange this plenty, and this range of their simple domains, their well filled granaries, and their droves of domestic animals for any mode of life, that a town can offer. ■% No order of things presents so palpable a view of the onward march of American institutions as this. The greater portion of these immigrants, beside tlieir wives, a few benches and chairs, a bible and a gun, com- menced with little more than their hands. Their education for the most part, exlended no farther than reading and writing, and their aspirations had never strayed beyond the desire of making a farm. But a sense of relative consequence is fostered l>y their growing possessions, and by perceiving towns, counties, offices and candidates springing up around them. One becomes a justice of peace, another a county judge and another a member of the legislative assembly. Each one assumes some municipal function, pertaining to schools, the settlement of a minister, the making of roads, bridges, and public works. A sense of responsibility to public opinion, self respect, and a due estimation of character and correct deportment are the consequence. ' " * ' This pleasant view of the commencement and progress of an immi- grant is the external one. Unhappily there is another point of view, from which we may learn something what has been passing in his mind, during tliis physical onward progress. All the members of the • establishment have been a hundred times afflicted with that gloomy train of feeling, for which we have no better name, than home sickness. Ail the vivid perceptions of enjoyment of the forsaken place are keenly remembered, the sorrows overlooked, or forgotten. The distant birth place, the remembrance of years, that arc gone, returning to memory amidst the actual struggles of forming a new establishment, an effort full of severe labOr, living in a new world, making acquaintance with a new nature, competing with strangers, always seeming to uneducated people, as they did to the ancients, as enemies, these contrasts of the present with the mellowed visions of grant .*5; *r«n niMIUllATIn:,-. 189 memory all kml lo Ijitlcrnc?.^. ^\'c iur:v\- ii'vUistaud, liow mnny invisi- ble tics of liahit \V(! pcvcr in Icavinjj tjur coiinlrv, niilil wc liml ourselves in a strange land. Tlie old pursuit;-!, and Avays of jKishing time, of v.hich wc took little notn, a^i tlicy jtiissccl, wliciv- llr.To mv new lurnisof society, new institutions, iiLW \v; ys of niann^'ing every thing, that hdungs to the social edifice, in a word, a (■(inii)]t'le change of tho whole circle of associ- ations feelings and hahits, cfincovcr tlu? mind, liko a cloud. The immigrant, in the pride of his reincinhrances, begins to extol tho country, he has left, its inhabitanl.-j, hnv?-, institutions. The listener has an equal stock of oppo.«itc i)rrjudices. The pride (jf tlic one wounds the pride of the other. The weakness of human nature is never more obvious, than in these meetings of neighbors in a new country, each fierce and loud in extolling his own country, and detracting from all others in the comparison. These ntirrow and \ile prejudices spread from family to family, and create litth; clans political, social, religious, hating, and hated. No generous project for a scliool, church, liIjrary,or public insti- tution, on a broad and ccpial scale, can luospcr, amidst sucii an order of things. It is a sulTiclent reason, that one cl in proposes it, for another to oppose it. All this sjHings from one of the deepest instincts of our nature, a love of country, wliich, like a transplanted tree, in removing has too many fibres broken oil", to flourish at once in a new soil. The immi- grant meets with sickness, misfortune, disaster. Tliere are j)cculiar strings in the const itutit.n of ]:innan nature, wliich incline him to repine, and imagine, that the same things would not have befallen him in his former abode. He even finds the vegetables, fruits, and meats, though appa- rently finer, less savory and nutritive, tjian tliosc of tiie old country. Under the pressure of such illusions, many an immigrant has forsaken his cabin, returned to his parent country, found this mockery of hia fancies playing at cross purposes with him, and showing him an aban- doned paradise in tlie western woods, and father land the country of penury and disaster. A second removal, perhaps, instructs him, that most of the causes of our dissatisf iclion luid disgust, that we imagine have their origin in external things, really exist in the mind. To the emigrants from towns and villages in the Atlantic country, though they may have thought little of religious institutions at home, the absence of the church with its spire, and its sounds of the church- going bell, of the village bustle, and the prating of the village tavern are felt, as serious privations. The religious discourses so boisterous and vehement, and in a tone and phrase so dillerent fiom the calm tenor of what he used to hear, at first produce a painful revulsion not wholly unmixed with disgust. lie finds no longer those little circles of com- pany, into which he used to drop, to relax a leisure hour, which, it may I'? I r I I'i 100 MISRlSSirn VAI.l.KY. 1)0, wrro not nmcli prizorl in flu* nijoyriirnf ; l»iit arr now fclf, ns n serious want. Nothing Hiinrks liini so inncli, ns lo sec liis iicii^^lihor sicken, nnd die, uiisolnced by llie voico ol" rcliL'ions iiislnictioti nnd pniycT, nnd carried to liis loiij,' lioiiic williont i'liiicrid services. Tliese arc some of the circnnistances, tliat, in llie new seftleinents, 1JJ3 MJSSISSII'PI VAl.LEV. r operation, called hy llio iiorllitrn pcoph; ' ^iinlliii^r,' aiul liy llio poiilliorn 'tlca(li'iiiii<,'.' Tli;it is, fi cIk I- is cut, two oi tliivc lent from flic proiiiid, (luilc llivoii'ili tilt! l)!irk of (iic trcn, so ;is completely to divide tlie vessels, wliicli curry on tJK; pror'n ss ui' ciiciiliitioii. Some species oftrccsarcso tenacious of life, as in tl.iuw out leaves, after having sulFcred this operation. But tliey seldom have foliaf^e, after the first year. Tlio smaller trees arc all rut down; and tlio accumulated spoils of vegetable dccny arc l)urned to;:,'etIicr; ruul the aslrs contribute to the prcat fertility of the viririu soil. Iftlio tirld rdiifniu iirul)fr for rails, the object is to cut as miiclii'S possible on iIk; (hviiiii'i; thus advancing the double purj)Ose of clearing away tlie trees, and ])i('p;iring the rails, so as to require the least possible distance of removal. An experienced hand will split from an Inmdred to an hundred ami fifty raiJH in a day. Such is the convenience of fmdin'r them on the ground to be fenced, that Kentucky planters and the soutliern ]ieo])lo generally prefer timbered land to prairie; notwilhstrnding IIk; circiimsiance, so unsightly and in- convenient to a northern man, of dead trees, slumps, and roots, which, strewed in every direction over bis field, even tlio southern planter finds a great preliminary impediment in the way of cultivation. Tlie northern people i)refcr to settle on the prairie land, where it can be hud in con- venient positions. The rails arc laid zigzng, one length running nearly at riglit angles to the other. 'J'his in w( st country jjlu'rise, is ' worm fence,' and in the northern dialect ' VirL;iiiia fence.' Tlie rails arc large and heavy, and to turn the wild cattle and horses of the counlry, require to be laid ten rails orsix feet in height. The smaller roots and the underbrush are cleared from the ground by a sharp hoc, known by the nani.e ^ grubbing hoc. ^ This implement, \yith a cross cut sav, a irJiip fiaw, a hand sme, axes, a broad axe, an adze, an aiiii;rr, a haninirr, nails', and an iron tool to split clap boards, constitute the indispensable aj»i)aratus for a backwoodsman. The smoke house, spring house, and oilier common appendages of such an establishment it is unnecessary to describe; for they are the same as in the establishment of the farmers in the middlo and southern Atlantic states. A peach orchard is generally the first object in raising fruit; because it is easily made, and begins to bear the second or tlurd year. Apple orchards with all good farmers are early objects of attention. Theculli vation of the more (lelic:'to giirdeii fruits is generally an object of after attention, if at all, Miui-.e is [)l;:ii1cd tlio first ye;ir wiliiout ploughing. Afterwards the plough becomes Jiocrssary. Turnips, sweet potatoes, pumpkins and melon-; llouiisli rouarlcaijly on the virgin soil. It is a pleasant spectach^, to sec wilii \\]:>\ bixuiiaiiee liie ;ip[>le tree advances, fc ■* iT-r-, w '. IMMir; RATION. 103 ►Soulli of n3o llie fig tree is aiiljslilnltxl for llio npplo Ircc If the lojr liiiildinijs wore made of frood and (Iiir;il>l> imlcrinly, (lify icinaincomforl- jil'lc dwellings soven or ci^dit: yc^irs. IJy lliis lime in tlic ordinary prog- ress of succcs.^'ful farming, tlio t)\viior replaces them hy a house of stone, l)rirk,or framework; and Ihecjhjeet is to have the second house asiarjtro, ,'ind showy, as the fusf was rustic and rude. A vohime of details, touching the pniivross of such cstahhshments, might he added. But (his l)rief, though faithful outline of commencing cslablishmcnts in tho woods aims to re<'.oril an order of things, that is passing away under our eyes, and which will noon he found only in history. It is impossible to satisfy the inquiries, that are constantly making, pnrticuhrly by European cmirrrants, touching the exact cost of these improvements, and tlie requisite provisions, cattle and horses, necessary for a conuTioiiccmcut. All those things vary, not only according to quality as elsewhere, but according to nearness or remoteness from set- tlements, according to the abundance or scarceness of the article; in fact, are liable to greater irregularities of price, than in the old settlem'^nts. Labor has found its level, and costs nearly the same in the new, as in the old states. The average expense of log houses may, perhaps, bo rated at iifty dollars, when built on contract. Clearing, grubbing and enclosing timbered land, so as to prepare it for a crop, costs from six to twelve dollars an acre, according to tho heaviness and liardness of the timber, aiul the ease of splitting rails. The prairie land has a very tough green sward, and costs three dollars an acre to be well ploughed the first time. Lands under good improvement are generally worth from six to ten dollars an acre ; and all are aware, that the government price of wild lands, after the first a^ijiion sales, is one dollar and twenty five cents an sere. The most allbctionato counsel, wc would give an immigrant, ailer an acquaintance with all districts of the western country of sixteen years, and after liaving seen, and felt no small part of all, we have attempted to record, would be to regard tho salubrity of the spot selected, as a consid- eration of move importance, than its fertility, or vicinity to a market; to supply himself with a good manual of domestic medieijie, if such a man- ual is to be found; still more, to obtain simple and precise notions of the more obvious aspects of disease, an acquisition worth a hundred times its cost, and more than all to a backwoodsman; to liavc a lancet, and suffi- cient experience and firmness of hand to open a vein; to have a small, but well labelled and well supplied medicine chest; aud to be, after all, very cautious about either taking, or administering its contents, reserv- ing thoin for cmergeuties, and for a choice of evils; to depend for health on temperance, moderation iu all ihui^'s, u cuieful conformity in food and 4 ^ ' i m i''i. ..*, . \M MlflSISHIPl'I VALl.IJV. % dress to circumsfnucos niul lie cliiimfr; aii'l .ihovo all. Id tiiin ohscrvc » ri^'id and uiidcviiitini; a!)sliit(>ti<'<> Irdiii lliat loatliHoiiiu and iiiurdiTiMH \vc'st(ii()iiiirod tlu; provulciit. iniasin of (ho country. Lot every inini;,'iaiit Icain tlio mystery, and proviiJo the materials tu make good beer. F^et (!very itniiii;j[rant diirin from liilMtr a day or two after- wards. Let him have a I^ihle for a <;onHlant counsellor and a few good books for ini;ulili liiO ruilc?. nrtwoon 2r»aml 31"N. laliludc, niul NO nnd \V2'^ W. lnii-.i(ii(It' IVoiii FiOndoii. Uiulor its former owners, it was st'iniralcd into two ijolilicid jlivisions, whoso {^'eofrrnplncal limits were stroii\. 11)7 inp can oxccctl llio liixiiriniirn niiil «»niimi| iiicslmi iil»|c; atnl tlie pinrs mo of aiiextrnordinary lici^lit (iiid IxmiiIv. — Wliat iscillcil \vliil(» (cdar ami cyi)rosH,alK)iiii(l in tlir vast Hwaiiip-:, iirid this limhcr ;,'ri>\vs of jrn;atHi/.o Live oaks aro frciiiu'iit, and llic Ik c dtvcl(i|i(s iLscll'ln-H! in fidl pcrfr'ction. Our government coininiMiccd ii pl.intation of this invaluable species of trco at Deer Point, in wliicli, in the y.-ar iS'JiJ, upwurds of 70,000 wcro growing in a flourisliing condition. 'I'lie secretary of the navy proposed to abandon tlio ctdtivation, tliinkin;r that ilie country couhl never want live oak, when it is indi<.'enous (Vom Si. Marys lo the Sahine. IJnt there is reason to believe, that the amount of livi; oak in Florida and Louisiana has been much overrated. ENpcricncc has proved, that they are easily cultivated. Groves of these majestic trees ure ofini seen in diilerent parts of Florida, open, and arraujL'ed in regular lorms surp;issiii<,' tho Ixjauty of the famous [)arks of llu; EuLdish mansions; probably tho [>lan- tations of a former generation, of whoso civilization and taste these trees arc noble memorials. A la ri^c, detached live oak, seen at a distance on the verge of a savainia, or on the shore of u river, spreading like an immense umbrella, its head of such perfect verdure, and so beautifully rounded, is a splendid object on the landscape. The cabbage palm cho'Tna- rops palmetto, is common. This superb trot; sometimes raises a clear shaft eighty feet high. The limber resists tho gulf worm. Hats, baskets and mats are manufactured from the leaves. The young head at tiie stem is edible and nutritive. Wild animals feed on the berries. It is not seen west of St. Andrews B ly. 'J'iiu de;^p swarnjjs present the cus- tomary sjiectacleof innumerablo cypress columns, rising from immense buttresses, with interlaced arms, at their summit, showing the aspect of a canopy of verdure reared upon j)illars. On tho hammock lands, the beautiful dog wood trees si)rcnd their horizontal branches, and interweav- ing them with each other, form a fine deep shade, wJiicIi completely excludes the sun, and suppresses the growth of all kinds of r- vetation under them; presenting in some places, for miles *f>' her a smooth shaven lawn, and an impervious sliade. Here is the beautiful pawpaw, with a stem perfectly straight, smooth and silver colored, and with a conical top of splendid foliage always green, and fruit of the richest ap- pearance. Titi is a shrub filling the southern swamps, as the elder does at the north. It flowers in masses of white ornamental blossoms, and singular strings of covered seeds, that hang on the bushes till winter. Five or six species of pine arc found here. Tho southern extremity of the peninsula of Florida is very rocky. Instead of the trees and shrubs, which are found in the rest of the country, it is covered with Mastic, lignumvitx, gum clcmy, ovino, wild fig and mangrove. ill.. t'i ^1 il * 3&- 198 FLOIIIDA. «■ There arc many 1 races of luiiUMl i!)vveis, iU;solalc(l Indian villages, indications of former Ii.ihilancy, and inucli more cidtivafion, than is now seen in the conntvy. Wherever these traces of former popnlalion are observed are those ;n;roves of lime, orange, peach and fi3 numbers. By some their flesh is valued as mucli as that of the turkey. The crying bird is a pelican, remarkable for singular plumage, and its harsh cry. The wood pelican is nearly three feet high, and is seen stalking along the marshes, with his long, crooked beak, resting, like a scythe, upon his breast. The painted vulture is one of the curious birds seen on the Savannas, gorging on the serpents, frogs and lizzards roasted by the periodical burning of the grass plains. The great Savanna crane, when standing erect, is nearly five feet high. They fly in squadrons, and have a singular uniformity of 'flying, and alighting. A striking feature of this country is the number, variety and splendor of the birds, especially those of the aquatic species. Fish. The coasts, sounds and inlets abound in excellent fish; and the inland lakes and rivers are stored with such multitudes of them, as can not be adequately conceived, except by those, who have seen them. They are gcuerally of the same kinds, tliat we have named under this head, in our previous remarks upon the Mississippi Valley. We may observe in general, that the fish of this region, especially on the sea coast, arc fine. The fish, liere called the sun-fish, is the same with the trout of Louisiana. It is an excellent fisii, and no angling can exceed it. It takes the bait with a spring. What is a matter of curiosity. n ■; I FLORIDA. 201 to all the recent settlers in the country, is the multitudes of fish, that are seen at the mouths of the immense springs, that burst forth from the ground, of a size at once to form considerable rivers. When the channel of these subterranean streams is struck, by perforating the earth at any distance from the fountain, the hook, thrown in at the perforation, is eagerly taken by tlie fish, and fine angling may be had, as if fishing in a well. The most common kinds are the sun fish, cat fish, silver, or white bream, and the black, or blue bream, stingray, scale flounders, spotted bass, sheep's head, drum, shad, ifcc. Oysters, and other shell fish are excellent and abundant. Alligators and alligator gars are the common enemies of the finny tribes, and tliey here feed, and fatten on the fish. — The swamps, lakes and inlets so abundantly stored with fish, frogs, insects, and every kind of small animals, that constitute the natural food of alligators, would lead us to expect, to find this animal in great num- bers. There are all the varieties of lizzards, that we have enumerated, as belonging to the western country in general. The lakes and rivers abound in tortoises. The great, soft shelled fresh water tortoise, when of a large size, has been found weighing fifty pounds, and is esteemed by epicures, delicious food. The gopher is a curious kind of land tortoise, and is by many prized for the table. There are vast numbers and varieties of -frogs, and the music of the Rana boans, or bull frog is heard in con- cert with the cry of the Spanish whip-poor-will, the croaking of tortoises, and the innumerable pecpings and gruntings of the amphibious animals and reptiles of the lakes and marshes. Serpents. They are for the mcst part the same as have been described already under this head. Here is seen the ribband snake, of a clear vermilion color, variegated with transverse zones of dark brown. It is found about old buildings and is harmless. Here, also, is the chicken snake, swift, slender, long and harmless. Its prey is chickens. — The mud asp is a serpent, that lives in the muddy creeks, of a livid color, and easily mistaken for an eel. Persons incautiously wading in the mud have been bitten, and the bite has proved mortal. The coach whip snake inhabits the pine barrens. It exactly resembles a coach whip with a black handle, but is perfectly harmless. The bull snake is common on the savannas. It is a large, fierce and venomous looking snake, uttering, when irritated, a loud hissing noise; but its bite is harmless. The coach whip snake is common. It is an animal of beautiful colors, six feet long, and as slender, as a walking stick. — Tiie glass snake, which \ve have described elsewhere, is seen here. Red and black toads are common. The house frog indicates rain, by being uncommonly noisy, before it happens. The little green garden frog changes color, like the camelion; and its note exactly imitates the barking of a puppy. Indeed so great is 26 . mi S02 FLOUIDA. tlio number and varicly of llicsc reptiles, that it is the standing jest, when speaking of riorida, to stiy, that every acre will yield forty bushels of frogs, and alligators enough to fence it. Insects. Incredible numbers of tlie small insects, called epliemerae, cover the surfaces of the lakes and rivers, supplying abundant food for the birds, frogs, and fishes. Clouds of the gaudiest butterflies hover among the shrubs and flowers. Gnats and musquitos, as might be ■expected in such a country, are extremely frequent and annoying, especi- ally about the rice and indigo plantations, being ordinarily found in greatest numbers, where it is most unliealthy. On the open, dry savannas they are neither so frequent, nor troublesome,- and tliey decrease in num- bers, as cultivation advances. The jigger, red bug and musquito are •most annoying. Bays, Inlets and Sounds. From the uncommon levelness of the country on the sea shore, and from the numerous rivers, that intersect it, there is no part of the world, that for tlie same extent has so many inlets, sounds, narrow passes of water between islands, and communications of one point of the shore with anotlicr, by an inland channel. The whole coast is almost a continued line of these sounds; and it is beyond a doubt, that at a comparatively small expense, a canal communicating with the sea, in an hundred places, might be made from New Orleans t« the river St. Marys. From this river to the Sabine, and we may add, through Texas, almost every river, that enters the gulf just before its entrance, spreads into a broad lake, communicaling with the sea, and the water is .partially salt. From one of tliesc lakes to another, there is often a wide natural canal, with from four to six feet water. Tliose on the shores of Florida are too numerous to mention with particularity. Perdido bay, divi- ding Alabama fiom Florida, is thirty miles long, and from two to six broad. Pensacola bay is thirty miles long, and from four to seven wide. It receives the rivers Escambia, Yellow, Cold water. Black water, and Cedar creek. The bay of Pensacola affords the best harbor on the whole gulf shore. Bayou Texas enters from the north, a mile above Pensacola, and is four miles long, and a fourth of a mile wide. Bayou Mulatto enters the east side of Escambia bay. St. Rosa sound connects the bays of Pensacola and Chactawhatchee. This is a charming slieet of water, forty miles long, and from one and a half to two miles wide. A narrow peninsula divides Pensacola bay from this sound, for thirty miles. It yields five feet water in its whole length. Cliactawhatchcc bay is forty miles long, and from seven to fifteen wide. It receives a number of creeks, is much affected by storms, and was formerly the seat of a profitable fishery. St. Andrews' bay is protected by a number of small islands, receives some navigable creeks, lias deep water, is twelve miles long, and five miles wide. St. great K rLoniDAt 203 Joseph's bay is twenty miles long, and seven miles wide. Appalachicola is twelve miles long, and from four to six miles wide. Ocklockney is is twelve miles long, and two broad. Appalachy bay is a circular inden- tation, in which is the port of St. Marks, the nearest point to Tallapasseo the seat of Government. Histahalchce oflers a safe harbor for small vessels. Vacassa bay is the eastern-most bay in west Florida. Rivers. The rivers, that have courses of considerable length rise in the high lands of Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi. St. Marys is a very considerable stream, that falls into llic Atlantic, by a broad mouth. It is for a long way the separating line between Florida and Georgia. St. Johns, a very considerable river, rises in the centre of the peninsula, and flowing with a gentle current nortliwardly, broadens to a wide chan- nel, and passes through several lakes, the largest of which is St. George, twenty miles long, and twelve broad, and falls into the sea forty miles sc th of St. George. It has been navigated by the steam boat George Washington, the first that ever floated on the waters of Florida. She took the inland passage from Savannah, and arrived at Jacksonville on tlie St. Johns in thirty four hours. Indian river has a course from north to south, and empties into the gulf. Most of the rivers, that fall into the gulf, have their sources in Georgia. — The most important of these is Appalachicola, which divides East from West Florida. It is formed by the junction of two considerable rivers, that rise in the subsiding Appal- achian ridges in Georgia, tlic Flint and the Chattaliochy. It is the longest, largest and most important river in Florida, and falls into Appalachy bay. The small river, St. Marks, empties into the same bay. Escambia is a considerable river, and empties info Pensacola bay. Perdido, which forms the boundary between Florida and Alabama, falls into the gulf four leagues west of Pensacola bay. There are, also, the Nassau, St. Nicholas, Ocklockney, Corclia, St. Pedro, Charlotte, Hillsborough, Su- waney, Vilchees, Conecuh, Alaqua, Chactawhatchec, Econfina, Oscilla, Acheenahatchce, Chatahatchcc, Ilrstaliatchcc, and various others, which rise in Florida, and at dilTercnt points fall into the gulf There are a great number of rivers, not here enumerated, tliat rise in the pine forests, have considerable courses, and fall into arms and inlets of the gulf. The country is as yet scarcely susceptible of accurate topographical informa- tion, and is so intersected with rivers, and accommodated with inlets, and the soil is so level, and the communications from one point to another by water so easy that there is no place in the territory at any considera- ble distance from water communication. The enlranccs to most of the rivers have a bar, that unfits them (or the navigation of vessels drawing much water. Most of those rivers arc su!>ceptiblc of considerable extent hi 204 FLORIDA. of schooner navigation, and they arc generally capable of steam boat navigation. Inlands. The sea islands on the J'lorida shore arc not of much im- portance. St. Rosa island is a long and narrow slip parallel to the coast, between St, Rosa bay and Pcnsacola, The Tortugas are a group of islands, opposite the soulhern-moHt point of East Florida. They are covered witli Mangrove buslics, and extend from north-east to south-west. Anastatia is opposite lo St. Augustine, and divided from the main land by a narrow channel, and is twcaly-fivc miles in length. They arc covered with pine trees and sand banks, and have a sterile soil. On the West Florida shore are Ilummoch, Crooked, St. Vincent's, St. George's, Dog, and James' islands. Curiosities. Tlicse consist in a great many natural caverns, sinking rivers, great springs and natural bridges. Among the caverns, the most remarkable are Arch Cave, and Ladies Cave. The hrst descends under a vast lime stone rock. At a considerable depth in the earth, a cavern opens, one hundred feet wide, and fifty feet high. From this leads off a kind of gothic arcli for a long distance, at the end of which is a running stream twenty feet wide, and five feet deep. Beyond this is a hall one hundred feet long, with columns and stalactites. This cave has been explored four hundred yards. It abounds in sparry crystalliza- tions. The Ladies Cave is still more spacious. Tiiis, too, has its galle- ries, chambers, domes, sparry columns, and its cold and deep river winding through its dark passages. Two miles from this cave is the natural bridge over Chapola river. The Econfina river passes under a natural bridge. The antiquities of West Florida, as great roads, cause- ways, forts and other indications of former habitancy, are striking and inexplicable curiosities. None arc more so, tlian the regular and noble plantations and avenues of live oaks. In the vicinity of Tallahassee a small pond was recently formed by the sinking of the earth, which fell, with all its trees, with a tremendous crash. The sink is perpendicular, and fifty feet deep before we arrive at the water, the depth of which is not ascertained. Fountains, Lakes and Spi'ings. There seems to bo over all this country, a substratum of soft stones at equal depths, which is cavernous, and admits numberless subterranean brooks and streams to have their courses far under the ground. In places they burst out in the form of those vast boiling springs, which form rivers at a short diritance from their outlets, and by their frequency, their singular fornl^^, the transpa- rency of their waters, and the multitude of their fishes, constitute one of the most striking curiosities of the countrv. Among an hundred, which Its FLOUIDA. 205 I might be named, and wiiich liavc crcaled the vulvar impression, lliat there is every where a prodigious cavern beneath the surface of the whole country, the most remarkable is that, twelve miles from Tallahasse, winch is the source of Wakulla river. — It is of a size (o he beatable immediately below the fountain. A mile below its source the channel becomes so impeded with flags, rushes and river wijcdy, that a boat can scarcely be propelled through tlicm. Suddenly this iiiiniensc spring breaks upon the eye, of a circular form, and in extent, like u little lake. The water is almost as pellucid, as air. It has been sounded with a line of two hundred and fifty fathoms, before bottom was found. From its almost unfathomable depth, from the turial transparency of its waters, and per- haps also from the admixture of sulpliuret of lime, which it holds in solution, it has a cerulean tinge, like that, which every voyager has ad- mired in the waters of the gulf. To a person placed in a skifl^, in the centre of this splendid fountain basin, the appenvaucc of the mild azure vault above and the transparent depth below, on wliicii the floating clouds and the blue concave above are painted, and repeated with an indescriba- ble softness, create a kind of pleasing dizziness, and a novel train of sensations, among which the most distinguishable is a feeling, as if sus- pended between two firmaments. The imj)ression only ceases, when tlie boat approaches the edge of the basin near enough, tc enable you to perceive the outlines of the neighboring trees pictured on tJie margin of tiie basin. It has been assorted, that lime stone water in its utmost purity has less refractive powers for light, than free stone water. The water, probably, from the presence of the suljjhuret of lime, is slightly nauseous to the taste. Beautiful hammock lands rise from the northern acclivity of this basin. It was the site of the Englisli factory in former days. Here resided the famous Ambrister. The force, which throws up this vast mass of waters from its subterranean fountains, may bo imagined, when we see this pellucid water swelling up from the depths, as though it were a cauldron of boiling water. It is twelve miles from St. Marks, and twenty from the ocean. Mickasucke Lake, fifteen miles north-east from Tallahassee, is twelve miles long. On its shores many of the old Indian fields are covered with peach trees. Lake Jackson, north-west from Tallahassee, is eight miles long, and three broad. The richest lands in the country are on its borders. Lake Itimony, fourteen miles north of Tallahasse, is eight miles long, and three broad. It is noted for the abundance of its fish. Old Tallahasse Lake is near the seat of Government. Chcfixico's old town was on its south shore. Inundation lake is newly formed by the inundation of tlie Chapola. Though deep, the forests are still standing in it, and it is twenty miles long, and seven broad. ^ 200 FLOniDA. The Brig Spring of CImpola tlirowsout a considornblo river from hctweeir the liigh rocks on its .shores. The Clnpola river is almost wholly form- ed from largo springs. Tlic T^ig Spring of Chactawalchcc is the chief source of that river. The AVaucissa spring discharges a very considera- ble stream. Savages. The Seminolcs wore once a numerous and powerful tribe, as were also the Baton Rouges, or Red Sticks. Their numbers were much reduced by the terrible but deserved chastisement which they re* ceived during tlic late war. Numerous small tribes, and divisions of tribes, and congregated bodies of refugees from diflcrent foreign tribes are dispersed in tlie forests and savannas of this country. They used to find in the spontaneous production of the soil, and in the abundance of fish and game, a superfluity of subsistence. The Indians of this region are an alert, active and atliletic people, fond of war, of gay, volatile, and joyous dispositions, and the merriest of sav- ages. TJiey have the common propensity for intoxication and gambling. They are active and expert hunters ; and, by the sale of bear, deer, pan- ther and wolf skins, horses and cattle, bees wax, honey, venison and such articles generally, as are the fruit of the chase, they procure their clothing, and such things as are called for by their habits of life. Civil divisions. Since the cession of this country to the United States, the imniigralion to the country has been very considerable. The country has been divided into counties, judicial and military districts; and all tJie benefits of American institutions are peaceably ditlused over its whole surftvce. The present number of inliabitants in both I'^londas, is 34,725. They arc as thoroughly mixed, as any community in the United States, comprising emigrants from all foreign countries, and from every American state; and among the Creoles, there are all possible admixtures of African and Indian blood. The greater proportion of the inhabitants are very poor, and too great a part of the recent immigrants are merely adventurers. The greater number of the ancient inhabitants lead a kind of pastoral life, and subsist by rearing cattle. A few of the planters arc opulent, and have good houses with piazzas, and every addition that can easily be devised to court the breeze. They live a solitary life, in remote forests, or savannas. But abounding in fish, cattle and game, they have all the necessaries of life without labor or difficulty; and the unbounded hospitality which they practise, is at once an easy and delightful virtue. Nothing can be more grateful to the summer traveller, oppressed with hunger, thirst and heat, and wearied with the sad unifonnity of the wide pine forests, and savamias, than the cordial though rude welcome, the patriarchal simplicity, the frank hospitality, and the surrender of time, slaves, and every thing that tlie house alfords, to his comfort, tiianlic rc> FLORIDA* 207 ccivcs hcio. Some [lortiyns of this region have iiitnesl with tljc thinking truvcller, from iinolher circumstance. Tlic many moundn, that are me- inorinla of agea ami races forever lost to tradition and history, aie hero mixed with tlio melancholy ruins of consitlerable villages, that rise among the orange groves, and manifest, that there was once, even here, a nume- rous population of civilized beings. The amusements of tho people are a compound of Spanish, French and American manners. Florida is divided into Walton, FiScamhia, Washington, Jackson, Gads- den, Leon, Jeflerson, Fayette, and some other new counties. Comparative advantuf^cs of hnmh^ratlon to Florida. This country was in some points of view an invaluable acquisition to the United States. It was necessary to the'rounding, and completing the area of our surface, that no foreign power should possess a territory surrounded by our own. It was necessary for llic possession of its harbors, and its immense lino of coast. It was invaluable for its inexhaustible supplies of ship timber. As an agricultural country, it must bo confessed, a great part of it is sterile. Tiic level pine forest lands v» HI bring one or two crops of corn without manure; and will, probably bee Itivated to a certain extent with indigo. The drier lands of this sort are admirable for sweet potatoes, and on the whole better, with the requisite cultivation, and manuring, for gardens, than soils, naturally more fertile. There arc considerable bodies of excellent land, distributed at wide intervals over all the country. But a small proportion of these arc, what are dcmoninatcd first rate. Some parts, probably, offer equal advantages for the cultivation of sugar with the sugar lands of Louisiana. Cochineal, it is supposed, will be made to advantage, and it may be, coflec. It oilers sui>crior maritime advantages of every sort; abounds in the materials of ship building; and in its rich and inexhaustible fisheries, and its supply of oysters, and sea fowl has its own peculiar advantages. Tlie immigrant, who sought to enrich him- self by cultivation alone, would, probably, make his way to the richer soils, west of the Mississippi. But, if taken as a whole, it is more sterile than the country along the Mississippi, it feels tlic refreshing coolness of tlic sea breeze, and the trade winds, and, it is beyond a doubt, more heaUhy. — Nature has her own way of balancing advantages and disadvan- tages, over the globe ; and a Florida planter finds sufiicient reasons, on comparing his country with others, to be satisfied with his lot. Chief Towns. St. Augustine is the chief town of East Florida, and the most populous in the Country. It is situated on the Atlantic coast, thirty miles below the mouth of St. Johns, about two miles within the bar, opposite the inlet, and at the neck of a i)cninsula, in north latitude 20° 45'. — The bars at the entrance of the inlet have from eight to ten feet f I n I .•; ;*,- ■r T-ns ' - jirr ■ . * • 208 FliOniDA. VVfttor. Tho town is Itiiilt ofjin ohloni,' form, d^yidcd Iiy four Htrcets, thaj cut oarli other ;it ri;;lit nin,'!*-!, foitilicd l»y biistions, and Hurroundcd l)y a ditch, and is d('fni(I\. 200 naturalizetl to llic poll. Homo Imvo nsserfod, iliat tocca irecs would succeed in tlio soutliorii purls ofllic poniiisnl;!. Pcnsacoln, fifty tnilcH from Mobile, Ih tlio cii)!!:!! of West Florida. It isflitu:itod on a bay of llio snino naiiic, in ni)rlli lUr :i\J' ;iiul in longitude 10° IH' fi'oin W!isliin;.r|()ii. 'J'lu' shore is low iinti sandy; hut the town is built on n j,'(.'ntlo ascent. It is, liko St. Anunstine, liiiilt in an oblong form, and is nearly a niiln in len<.Mli. Small vessels only can come quite tollictown. IJiit tln^ bay allbrds oMo of tlie most safe nnd capacioui linrbors in all the pnlf of Mexico. It lias been selected by our govern- ment, as a naval station nnd depot, for which its harbor, nnd theadvan* (ape of fine ship timber in the neiiihborhood, nnd its relative position admirably fit it. A stream of fresh water runs tliroii<,'li the town, anditi market is well supplied with beef, tjarden vegetables and lish. Oysters, tur- ik-g and ^'ophers arc^ important items in the supplies of food, and espe- cially sea fowls. It was an old iiiid decnyin[; town, when it came under tlic American jfovcnmient. At that period it received that iinpidse of increase and prosperity, which has uniformly been the result of coming under the American liiill Icivc liccii c inplcfcd, niul tho rc- «()UT<'«H of ilio coiiiifiy tIc'VclMpcd, I'l-w \>bviH prcyciii nion; utlractions to iinmij.'M»<-^' (luiiicy timl MniriH'Iin tin; lliriviiii,' vill-ifjrs. Coiinfir.i ami ( 'hi' f' 'i'ntniH h(.siilr f.'in^f alremfif mnitinncil. Aliicliua, Pell; Dnvdl, Jnvl.foiniHi ; I'lscaiiilti i, PniKitrolu ; ll[\u\'\\\i)]\^ MUrotown; Jackfj'ii, MdfiifniHf I flvWcTHow, Moiitii'i'Uo; 7,(«((ii, 'VnU(ih<\)(\\\\\\(iB from \V(i(*l(iri:rton; iM:u!i--')|(, lllclxtnini; IMuino, .A'r// ITr.v/; MoHclicto^ Tomoht; N: r-^'ui, FrnlitKimfit; "U, JoIuh, St. Airju.sfhir, 811 from Wiishiiiyfoii, '-.".i-j.S. K. iiuia TiilLilm.ssDc; Walton, Aliqua; Washington, lloliiu\'i Valhi/. ll'istonj. 'J'lio l'!ii^i;.-^Ii avor tli:it riorio(liti(»ii wmh undeitnkcin to tho country, by Painphilo do Xarvaez, with ICO nitii, tVoni tlio ishind of Cuba, lie at- tompti'd to poiietralo the iiitciior oflho coiiiitiy, and was never heard of iiioro. In ir^.'^N, the coiintiy \v;ih entirely siil'(hied by F(!rdinand dc 8otOj one of the biave;-!t ollicer.s in liie Spanish serviee. .IJiit the savages were numerous, fierce and brave;; and it cost the Si)anish a long and bloody 6trn;L'gle before they were able to establish themselves in the country. In If)!')!, the French be<;an to establish tin inselves, and to form little scttlc- nicntsalong the ^hore,and from the facility, with which they have ulwaya pained the ^rood will of the sava;_as, they become at once powerful and troublesome to the Spaniards. Their settlements were seldom of an ag- ricultural character. 'J'jicy ;,renerally took part with the natives, and ad- dicted themselves to hnntiiiir. Tlie Spanish sent a fleet a.'lled after sustaining considera- iii "%;. 212 FLOUIDA. ble loss to abandon the siogc. In 17(53, Floriilii was ccdoil to Great Britain, in cxcliange for Ilavanna. She received Florida, as an Cfjuiva- lent for that very imporiaut acquisition. By tlio encouragement, whicli the government gave to agriculture, numbers of colonists poured in from every part of the Britisli islands, and from all the countries in Europe; and this may be considered, as the most prosperous period of the country, as regarded its future prospects. — In the year 1781, while Great Britain was exerting all her powers to reduce her revolted colonics, a well concerted attack by the Spaniards, re-conquered the country, and brought it under its ancient regime, and it was guaranteed to them by the peace of 1783. It remained in their possession, forming one of the three governments, which composed the captain-generalship of the island of Cuba. In 1810, the inhabitants of that part of West Florida, which now composes part of the states of Alabama and Louisiana, in concert with the American au- thorities, renounced the government of S]riin,and attached themselves to the United States. The revolution was cllecfed without bloodshed. It ig said that they hesitated about tlie propriety of setting up an independent government, and that they sent delegates to our government, to treat Tespecting the terms of reception. The country, so seceding, came peaceably under our government, and has so remained ever since. We know little of the interior history of tliis country, while under the 'Spanish regime. St. Augustine, Pensacola and St. Marks were the only places of much importance. Tlic country supplied Ilavaima with cattle and horses; and furnished an occasional retreat to the inhabitants of that city during the sickly season. They had the customary Spanish engines of government, a priest, a calaboza, a commandant and a file of soldiers. History redeems but little from the silence of such a government, as it respects knowledge of the character and deportment of the ofiicers, ortlie •condition of the people. The materials of such annals, if any exist, are in the archives at Ilavanna. Meantime our government had heavy and well grounded claims on the Spanisli government for spoliations committed on our commerce. These claims, as also settling definitely the territorial lino of jurisdiction between the United States and New ]Mexico, made the basis of a treaty, by which the Spanish ceded to us tlie entire country. The treaty was made a law in 1820; and it tlien became a territory of the United States, and has since advanced with that steady progress in population and prosperity, wiiich has marked every country, that haa thus been added to our government. It is supposed, there are seven millions of acres in the coffee region of Florida; eight millions of sugar land; and nine millions of cotton and grain landj making twenty-four million acres of marketable land. AliABAMA. Length, 280 miles. Breadth, IGO miles; containing 4G,000 square miles. Between 30° 12' and 35° N. latitude; and between 8° and 11° 30' "W. longitude from Washington. Bounded North by Tennessee; East by Georgia; Soutli by Florida, and West by the state of Mississippi. CIVIL DIVISIONS. Counties. Autauga, Baldwin, Blount, Bibb, Butler, Clarke, Conecuh, Covington, Dallas, Decatur, Franklin, Fayette, Greene, Henry, Jackson, Jefferson, Lauderdale, Lawrence, Limestone, Lowndes, Madison, Maren- go, Marion, Mobile, Monroe, Morgan, Montgomery, Perry, Pickens, Pike, Shelby, St. Clair, Tuscaloosa, Washington, Wilcox, and Walker. Population. No part of the western country has had a more rapid increase of population, than this state. In 1800, that portion of the present state of Mississippi, which is now Alabama, had only 2,000 inhabitants. In 1810, it contained 10,00. In 1820, it numbered 127,000. By the census of 1830, 199.221 free whites and 1 12,G2.'> slaves. Total, 31 1,846. This state rises by regular belts, or terraces from the gulf of Mexico. The lower belt is low, level, and has many swamps and savarmas, and the prevailing timber is pine. The northern belt is plcas;mtly undulating. Tennessee valley, though a deep alluvial country, is in fact high table land, and there arc few table countries, whicli excel this part of the state in fertility, mildness of climate, and pleasantness of position. This valley is separated from that of the Alabama by hills of such lofty and precipitous character, as generally to merit the name of mountains. Some of these peaks tower 3,000 feet above the level of the gulf. One chain runs from Ross, on Tennessee river, between the Coosa and Black HI an ALABAMA. Warrior, piviiiL' rise lo Iho fiend waters of C.ili.iwba. Another sepanitcs till! streams of tlicgiiirrroin those, tint fall into the Teimcssec. Another raii^'e divides between tlic waters of the Black Warrior, and Ton»bi;irbeCi llircr,% Tiio Chatahochy separates liiis slate from Georgia, and not far below the limils of that stale, unites with Flint river, to form the Appalachicola of Florida. — The Tennessee eurves from the north-cast to the north-west corner of llie stale near its northern line. A line of hills with a curve, corres|)ondiii;,r with that of the Tennessee, runs at a distance of between iifly and eiojity miles from that river, jTivin«r rise to numerous streams, that flow from one declivily north lo the Tennessee, and from the other south, to the waters of the Alabama and Tombigbec. Into Tennessee flow Walts' riv(M-, Turkey creek, Poplar creek, Occochapa and many smaller streams. Tlicso rivers reach the Tciuiessec either at the Muscle Shoals, or near them. It is [)roposed to unite the waters of die Tennessee with the upper waters of the Tombigbee by a canal, which shall cross Bear creek of llie Tennessee, and ihe line of hills, that sepa- rates the waters of that river from those of Tombigbec, and unite the the canal with an upper and beatable branch of that river. Mobile river is formed by the junction of Alabama and Tombigbee^ and is so called up lo the point, where these rivers unite at Fort Mimms^ It enters Mobile bay by two mouths. The Alabama is the eastern branch of the Mobile, and is itself formed from the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers. The 'i'aliapoosa rises in the Alleghany ridges in Georgia, where it is called Occafiisky, and receives a number of tribu- taries in the Indian country. It i);isses over considerable falls, before it gives its waters to the Alabama. — The Tallapoosa rises far the same ridges, and jjursues a somcwirat longer course to the south-west. Both are rapid streams, run through the Creek country, and arc not boatablei lo any considerable distance above their junclion. — From this junction the Alabama receives a number of small streams from the east, bends towards the west and receives the Caliawba. It is navigable by sea vessels to Fort Claiborne. It is one of the finest rivers of the southern country, and navigable for sfeani boats of llic largest class, for a great distance. A number ply conslanlly on it. They transport 130,000 bales of cotton to Mobile. When llie tiile of the lands of the Creek Indians shall have become vested in the Uiiiled States, and the beautiful country on the head waters of this river settled by whites, it is probable, that Montgom- ery, situated midway between Mobile, ami tiie highest points of steam navigation on this river, v»"ill become one of the most important towns in the stale. The Tombi^'bce rises in the ridges, that separate between its waters and those of the Temios,^ee, in the northern parts of the state J and receives some of its wealern branches from a range, that '^ ALAIIAMA. 21!j tlivorgcfl from llic Tcnncp.'oc hills, and ninB sontli along llic middle of flic state of Mississippi. It receives, in its projricss, iiniiy coiisiderablo sfreiims from the stalo of Mississippi on llie west. It mcandrrs ihroiiffh (he Indian conntry, and a tract pine li.is( d by l''r('ii(ii inuniifranls. Ei<;h(y miles above Si, Stepliors, it is s\V( llcil by flu; accession of the lilaciv Warrior, to which place small s(\i vessels ascend, fii moderate slaires of the water, it allbrds st(\'im boat navirior, and find its way to the sea through that conntry. The Tensa is a branch, or enlargement of Mobile river, before it enters I\bibile bay. The Perdido separates this state from Fh)rida, as the Pascagoula. on tlic west does from the slate of Mississippi. Escambia rises near Fort C!laiborne, and running a south- wardly course, unites with the Conccuii, and forms Escambia bay above Pensacola. Face of the coiinfn/, .t being in other respects, as regards soil, climate, and situation, very similar to those states. Immi- grants from the land of pine and cypress forests, love to sec these trees in the new regions, to which they transi)lant themselves. Public opinion had estimated this country, as more tlian conimoidy healthy, for its climate. That part of it, lying south of tJio Tennessee ridge, has great facilities of communication with the sea. The southern planters ordina- rily do not covet a country, w liich admits a very dense population. They love space, in whicjj to move tliemsclves. They prefer those extensive pine barrens, in which there is such inexhaustible range for cattle, and which will not, for a long time admit a dense population. At the same time, they desire at intervals rich alluvial soils of thick cane brake, the proper soil for cotton. Alabama, furnished them, in these respects, all they could wish. It was nnich healthier, than tlic maratimc parts of the Carolinas; and at tlie same time had a soil better ada,i)ted to cotton. This may account for tJie great immigration from the Carolinas and Georgia, and for that surprising increase in tiie population, which we have already noted in the table of civil divisicjns, Tlie people in this state ha\e a, gcih lal clnracler for order, quietness, a regard for religion, scIujijIs, and soci:il and moral institutions; more decided than could have been exprv^kd, taking into view the recent origin of the state. — 'J'jicy spe.;k, r.nd tbink of ihemsclves, in reference to the states further south and west, with no small degree of assumption in the comparison. There are jniny opidmt phmtors with large numbers of slaves J and they poBsess the elKuacten»1icj]io3pitulily of these iKJople 218 ALAIJAMA. 'every wlicio They have not f(jiino(l a character, as a state. They have 'few reli<,'iou.s, literary or oliior institutions. Bat they are developing a ^character, which will lead to respeet;il)lo ;ind ininirrons fouiulations of this kind. Travellers have hccu I'lvoruljly ini])rL'.s.sed with the charac- teristics of hospitality, riuictness and ^ood order, whicii tlicy generally witnessed. The people hcLiin to be alive to the vital interests of schools and education. The usual appropriations of lands foi colleges •and schools have been made hy congress for this stale. From the conipa- tively high price of lands, these approi)riations must ultimately constitute a respectable fund. Seminaries. Alabama contains three colleges; The Catholic college near Mobile, the Methodist coUe^'c at Laf^range, a respectable institution, and Alabama college at Tuscaloosa. This last is an amply endowed institution. One of the buildings is magnilicent. Great exertions have been made to purchase a respectable li])rary and philoso])hical apparatus, and in point of pofessorships and other appointments to place it on a ^footing with the most respect ;il)lo institutions of liie kind. Climate. Tiie eliiuate of this iAiiU}, taken together, is favorable to health, compared ^\ilh the southern country generally in the same paral- lels. The lower part of it is constantly fanned, during the summer heats, by the trade wind breezes, 'i'liero c;in hardly be said to be such a ^season, as winter, and yet the summers arc not hotter, than they are many degrees more to the north. TJio duration of the summer heats is indeed debilitating, and the direct rays of tlio sunnner's sun oppressive. But strangers from the north in the sluidc, and in the current of air, seldom euiier from the heat. In the northern parts of the state still waters often freeze. In the southern parts they seldom sec much snow or ice. Cattlo require no shelter during the winter. ]\lai/c is planted early in March. In the 31st degree of latitude tlie thermometer stands in spring water at 69° which is nearly the mean temperature of the year. A series of thermometrical operations for u year give the following result. The warmest part of the warmest day in i\})ril gave 82°. — Mean heat of July of the same year 8(5°. Coldest day in January 51°. Coldest day in February 43°. Warmest day in IMarcli 85°. Same year the trees in the swamps, where vegetation is most lardy, were in full leaf the 2d of April; peach blossoms gone; April 12th r^-as in pod; peaches of the size of a hazlenut; fig trees in leaf; greeii peas at table, May 2d; strawberries ripe; May KUh mulberries, dewberries, and whortleberries ripe; May 15th cucumbers in perfection; June 2lMh roasting corn at table. Diseases. In point of health this clinialo takes its character from situation and local circumstances. Tlie })revailing diseases of the cooler months are those of the class termed cuehe.w. The diseases of the warm r ■JSm. ■ i^'^ AT, ATI A MA t 21» montlis are gononlly bilious. AVIirro tlio powerful snutlicrn sun brings (he swamp miasm into notion, discuses follow of conrsc, and none but ncToes, and tliosc accliniMlcd, caii s;ifer are exported. The cotton used to be carried to New Orleans. jMobile lias become a port of great export for cotton. This counli^v, so near Ilavanna, has great advantages for navigation. Sea vessels proceed \\\) the Alabama to a ccnsido able distance. The northern par!s of Alabama, situated in the Tennessee \alley, are compelled to send their produce by a very circuitous route, down the Tennessee, the Ohio and Mississippi, where it arrives, after a passage of 1,000 miles. At starting, it can not bo more than five hun- dred miles from the i/ulf There is lildc hazard in assertinij, that the intelligent and opulent people, in llie beautiful and fertile valley of the Tennessee, will canal the ridges, that rise between them and the waters of the Alabama, and will unite llicmsclves with the gulf by that fine river. Chief Toivns. Mobile is tlio only town of any great importance in the lower jjart of the slate. It lies on the west side of Mobile bay on an elevated plain, in latitude oU° 10'. It is situated considerably above the overflow of the river, in a diy and pleasant situation. Access to it is rendered somewhat dilbcult to vcslscIs by a swampy island oppo- site the town. But when once they have entered, they are perfectly secure from winds, .storms and enemies; and can cono directly to the town. It has swampy lauds and slagnant waters back of it, and near it a sterile country of pine woods. From these causes, though it had been, one of the earliest settled towns in the country, it never became, undei: il,,j«!' m 220 M-A]!.\.M.\. the .Spanish nnd Frnifli iooiin'>, more iIitji ;\ military po!«t. Under tin* government of the L'liiled StiU..-, it lins rfcoivcd_ci new impulse of proa pcrity. But a few years nincr, little culton was niised in the whole country connected witii !M(»l>il»'; rnul none was exported directly from this place. It is now .'i urcat !^lii|i|)iiii.f port for cotton; and a lur;.ro num- ber of s(piare riuyvd vt >s('ls l;il<(! tlicir freiylil from this city. There is no other port, perhnp.s, in liio United St.ites of the same size, that has so largo an amount of export. After New Orleans and Charleston, it is the largest cotton port in the country. It is enlivened, too, hy the coming and dcpartini,' of many steam hoats, that }i!y on the nr»l)lc river ahove the city. In ndcMtion to the <.nvat luniiber of packet schooners, that sail between this place and New Orleans, some hy the lake, and some by the Mississippi, there is now a steam hoat conunnnication between the two cities, by the way of VMsv. Voiu linrlrain. Of course, except during the sickly months, it is a jtlacc of ^uni. activity and business. Chiefly destroyed, not long since, by a (lestniftive fnv, it has been rapidly and handsomely rebuilt of brick. It contnitis 'iOtX) free whites, and 1500 slaves and free blacks; total, ;i,.")l)(). 'I'lie public buildmgs are a court house and a jail; four churches, one for lionian Catholics, one for Epis- copalians, one for I'reshyterians, and one for Methodists. A Roman Catholic college is erecting at Spring Hill, six miles from the city. It exported, 1831, 110,fitU) bags of cotton. It has the disadvantage of a shallow harbor, whicli is moreover growing shallower by the sand depos- ited by the rivers. The most fatal impediment to the advancement of this town is its acknowledged character for sickiiess. Advantage has been taken of this circumstance, to commence the town of Blakely, on the eastern and opposite side of tlic bay, ;nid at ten miles distance. The site is free from contiguous swam]is. It stands on the Tensa, the largest branch of the Mobile, which yields deeper water, and has a harbor of easier access, than Mobile. Tiie situatitm is open, high, and dry, and it has cool and limpid si)rings of water, and superior advantages of commu- nication with the country by good roads. It has improved considerably, and its founders were sanguine, that it would speedily eclipse Mobile. But that ancient town had, what is calhnl in the west country phrase, *the start,' and sustains its pre-eminence, as a commercial depot, not- withstanding its frequent and destructive ravages from yellow fever and fires. Mobile is 1033 miles from Washington, and 220 S. from Tusca- loosa. St. Stephens is on liie Tombigl)oo ^'2() from Mobile, and at the head of schooner navigation. It is a rniisidcnlilo village with stone houses; but notwithstanding a la\oral>lo pir^iiioji in the iuidsf of a fine country, wears the aspect of decay. ALABAMA. S21 f'ahawba lias l)Con, iinlil roccnlly, the f)olitir.;il mclrnpolisi, and is sit- uated at tlic junction oC the Cah-uvb'.i. willi llic Aliibama. County courts nre licUl lioro, and iin ollico for tl.o s;il(M)riiiiblic lands. Tbc circum- stance of its bavin;.' bcin tilt; nu'lrf)iK)bs yiive it ;i i;i{»i(l ^jrowtli. It bas a considcniblo innnbiT oC liitiKK-dUKj liuildinirs, inlcimixcd, according to tlic common Itisbion of new towns, witb ii great many temporary log buildings. ]''K)ri(la, Claiborne, l)inufri( s, Jackson, Collbevino, Deinopo- lis, and Colnmbia avo iiici])l(ii1, and somt; of tbcni tbrivinu villages. Tuscaloosa at tlio falls of llie JJlaclv Warrior is pormancntly iixcd, as llic political motro])oliH, and is a town of r;ipid ftrowtb. Its situation 500 miles from Mobile, is elevated, level and beautifid. It contains two lliousand inbabitants. Many of tbo luiildinys arc of brick and handsome. The public buildiniTH are a suiterl) stale bouso, a court bouse and jail; four cburcbe.^, one for I'rcsbytcrians, one for Episcopalians, one for Bap- lists, and one for JMetbodists. Tliis town is tbo seat of tbc new and handsome bnil(lii);js of Ala1)anKi colleire. l}(N'niliful stone for buildings is foimd in tbo vieinily, tind mineral enal of tbc best (piality abounds in the banksof the Black Warrior. Salt works from water recently discov- ered are in successful ojjeral ion. Tuscaloosa is 858 nules from Wash- ington. Montgomery, tbc shire town of tlie county of tliat name, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Alabama, opposite the Big Bend, two iiundrcd miles cast of Mobile, and tlio same distance west of Milledge- ville in Georgia. The public bnildiuL's arc a court house and jail, one church for Presbyterians, and one for Methodists; and a theatre. It con- tains eight hundred inhabitants. It is surrounded by a fertile soil, rapidly settling with rich planters, chiefly from the Carolinas and Georgia, and promises to become a place of much commercial importance. Washington, Selma and Claiborne, and other towns on the Alabama, are inconsidera- ble villages. Thirty miles higher on the same river is Kelleysville, a thriving village. Eaglevillc is ^jrincipiilly inhabited by French emigrants, who calculated to cultivate the olive and the vine. Montgomery is 859 miles from Washington, and 110 from Tuscaloosa. The beautiful and fertile vaHoy of Teimcssec has a very different conformation and its communications, by a long and circuitous route with the Mississippi and New Orleans. Tliis valley has a number of large and flourishing villages of its own. The larifost of these is Huntsville, a handsome and thriving town, situated ten or lifiecn miles north of the Tennessee, and fifty from the Muscle Slioals. The country about it is extremely fertile. It is j>rincipally built of brick, with some spacious, and very handsome buildings, a prcsliytcrian church, a baptist and two methodist places of worship, u handsume court house, and other 2^ AI.VnAMA. public builtlinffs. One of lliocc lar^rn tuul liraiillfiil Kprin^fs, tliat arc so common in this region, furnisjhcs liic town with water by mucliincry put in motion by its own cunciit. Florence is the noxt tnun in point of f^i/.r-, and in a commercial view more important than the other. It in sitnatcd on the north side of the Tennessee, at the foot of tiio jMiiscIo .Siioals. Wjien the river is in a good stage of water, steam boats of tiic largest si/o can come up to this place. It has in this way a groat and increasing intercourse with New Orleans. It has al)out 1,'1()0 inhahitanis, a very handsome courthouse, and a hotel in city style. It has i\ko a prcsltylorian church. Tuscumbia is the next place in size and importance. It is situated on the south side of the river near a mile from its banks, and five miles from Florence. It has several handsome buildings and athousajid inhabi- tants. Russclville is also a new town of some importance. A considerable degree of munificcnicc has l)ccn manifested by the peo-- pie of this state, in their appropriations for schools, roads, bridges, canals and other works of public utility. — Ak appropriation of 5 per cent, of of the net proceeds of all the of public J.uids in the state has been provid- ed for these objects. — A rail road has oecn commenced at Tuscumbia, which is intended to connect with some point of tlic Tennessee above' Muscle Shoals; and a convention recently called, to deliberate upon in- ternal improvements expedient for the state, have recommended a rail real or canal communication between the valley the Tennessee," and the navigable waters of Aorth Carolina. General Jackson's military road, between lake Ponchartrain and Florence in this state, runs almost in a right line 330 miles. If fully completed, and kept in good repair, it would be of the greatest national utility. There are two or three canals in con- templation. There is no point, where one seems to be more called for,, than between the waters of the Tennessee und Alabama. County Towns. Washington, Centrcviljc, Bluntsvillo, Greenville, Clarksville, Sparta, Fayette, Erie, Columbia, Bcllfonto, Elkton, Moul- ton, Athens, Lowndes, Linden, Pikeville, Somcrville, Pickensville, Pike, Ashville, Shelbyvillc, Walker, Washington, Canton. Constitution and Laws. They have the connnon features of those of the other states. The legislative body is styled 'the assembly.' The senators are elected for a triennial, and the reijvcscntative for an annual term. The governor serves two years, and is eligible only four years out of six. The judiciary consists of a supreme and circuit court, together with sub- ordinate courts appointed by tJic legislature. The judges are appointed by the legislature, and hold their oHiccs dining good behavior. All persons over twenty-one years, and citizens of the United are eIcctors» :4. MISSISSIPPI. This slate in not, far from MOO miUs in avrrnp;o lc'nf,'fW, and 160 in ."ivera<,'c breadth. 'Bctwceii HO" aiul.'JP N. latitude; and 11" and 14° W. lonpitude from ^V'asliiiiifton. — It contains 28,000,000 acres. Bounded on the North by 'J'ennessee; IvihI l)y Alabama; South by the gulf of Mex- ico and Louisiana; W^cat by Louisiana and the Mississippi. CIVIL DIVISIONS. Names of the Counties. — Adams, Natchez City, Amito, Jackson, Jef- ferson, Lawrence, jNIarion, JMonroc, Perry, Pike, Warren, Wilkinson, Wayne, Yazoo,Madison. Population. Free wiiitcs l'^, 170. Slaves :J"2,814. Total 97,865. Face of the covntnj. Tliere are a number of distinct ranges of hills, of moderate elevation, in this stale, beside a singular succession of eminences, that show conspicuously, in descending the Mississippi. Some of the bases of these hills arc washed by this river. They are the Walnut Hills, Grand Gulf, Natchez, White Clifls, and Loftus' Heights. In other places, they appear near the river, or in the distance, as at Petite Gulf, Villa Gayosa and Pino Ridge. Two of these ranges divide the state nearly in its whole extent, and separate it into sectional divisions. In advancing from the bottoms of the Mississippi, there is every where, at a greater, or less distance from the river, an appearance of blufl's, which, when mounted, spread out into a kind of table surface, ^vaving pleasantly ; but in many instances, the richest table lands have precipitous benches, which expose the land, to what is technically called by the agriculturalists ' washing.' This is a misfortune, to which the richest lands in this state arc most subjected. '-< if J^'fl 2131 Missihsrrri, Pino Uid^'n in a siii'i"! "f rli'valiun. It n|>i»ri>a(}u's uilljiii :iniilo ol'ilic MisHissijipi, mikI h u Iml'Ii IjiII iiiidst of HiirroiiiMlinLr ridi liuul, tiinlicnd with Irii'il wikhI-i. U'p know of no pino w) near llir ,Mi:^sissi|.|»i, cxccitl in (mi'i pi ice, ju tlu' cunnty nl'CiiiK' (lira- ilcnti in INlissoiiii, liira disliuKM! of l.*(M) miles. In tin* Mtirllicin siMtion oftlio stale, inlialiitcdliy llie ( 'herokecs, and CIiaclawH, tlu; land rises into ro;.ndar and plensant iindnlalinns. Tlioscjii is deep, black, and rich, prnscntini,' in a sfat(j (tf n;ilnrn llio Hin/;'id:ir appearanc*; of liills c()V(!re(| with lii^ii cane lirake. — From their pn-eipitoiis (character, these fertile itnd pleasant hills are snhject to tin! i;() feet hioh. In Uuj strata of this hill nro seen tlio last stones, that art; discovered on descend ing the Mississip]ii. 'i'hey are visllile only in low sfa<,fos of water. They arc of the class, commonly called hiraht, cementcul with pr>l»l)lo3 ami other matters into amass, aitparenlly of recent formation. There i^ probably, no slate in the union, and few coiiiilries in the world of a more pleasantly diversified siirfice, more happily distributed into hills ami vallies, than the surface of this state. Rivers. The Mississippi washes the western shore of this state for a distance, followin/? its meandeis of nearly smcn hundred miles. The right lino of the Mississippi shore is less than lialf that dislancc. But the river is here remarkably circuifons, often curving round seven or eight leagues, and almost returnini: back on its course. The greater part of this long line of river coast, nnforlunately, is inundated swamp, very thinly iidia])ited, except by wood cutlers for llie steam boats, and seldom seen by any oilier, than people travelling on the river. There is here and there a position so liiii]i,as to bo capable of being occupied, as a plantation. But these uncunuaon elevations soon slo])o back to the cypress swamps. The Yazoo is the most cons.derablo river, Avhosn course is wliolly in this slate. It rises in Ihc Chickasaw conalry, in latitude III" 'JS', near the limits of Tennessee, and its head waler.^ almost conunuiiicate wilh those of Toiiibigbee. From it ?< so;irce il runs a Jioilh-west course, re ceiving the IJusha Yalo, the 'i'allahatchee, Lap[)alaI)a,]5ull;ilo Creek, and a number of less considerable stre"ms, and by a luonlh 100 yards wide, falls into the Mississi]»pi, twelve miles above lh<.' AVahuit Iiills. Its course is through a high, ploasai.i and salubiiou.s country, chiefly however, MTMI<»«IPPr. 996' Haimod nml inliuliifrd liv Tii(1i;iny. Tlifv inlnl.il tlio country. l>y the roiirne of tlir river ir»() miles frcMii if«> motif li. It is yorurally honfablo by Inrpe boats lil'ty miles; nud in tlu; liil.ili<»ii. 'I'licri' is Hut' liiiil«liiicidation, which will be lonhristi, and the bonne plant are sometimes raised. In the high and midland regions, it h aflirnied, that apples and pears arrive at tolerable perfection. This state, being on the southern verge of the medial climate, is a country, where a great variety of the articles of the north and the south may be expected to crodigious -^w^ -ii^i ■H 1? ■•^.: *tr« ;* ivA If li i^i a3(5 liOI'MlANA. ¥ m jtrow'lh uf llic tiiiil)cr, llio lii\iiri;iiicc, size? ami lankuossof tlm cane, anvl tliu cotton, tlio tiin/^lf? of vines and ( n^cpcrs, llic aslonisliinj,' .si/o of tlit- woods, anTi: i-i.-nippi, ihr llijoiis li;!!oiircli(';m(l Phu|ueinino,cfnuxes oroiiilcls trom Mississippi, Imvo ilu; .saiuc c()iir»MiMiifion of banks, iiiitl iIk.' same (pnlilii'H of soil with (he ptirrnt Hticain; niul, where not iiiiMKlafcd, arc cipially fcrlilc. TIk; siiL'ar caiu! tlirivcsiiH well upon their IkiiiKh. JN'o iiicniisidcraljlu portion of Altakapas is of ^Tcat fertility, aa an' .■"iiiallor portions of ( )pt'Ioiisas, wliicli is, jiowcner, rnoro generally adiptcd to hcconio a L'ra/iiiu[ comiiry. Tlio 'IVclio, which meanders tliron^Ii Opcloiisaa and Altaka|)as lias /^cMcrally ;i vrry fortilo alluvion, tlic lower conrsc.s of which arc <'nib(!llishod witli lino plantations of su'rar cane. On IIkj Atchalalaya tho lands an^ rich, hnt too generally iiMMidatcd. Tho ('onrlalilcaii, riiiuiiM;>' thron^h Opclonsas, has probably as rich a >«()il as is to lie i'onnd in that parish. Approaching Red River from 0|)t;lonsas, by liayoii nocnr, wd find on that bayou a soil, which Konu; consid(!r tho richest c(»lt()n land in l.onisiana. Dayou Rouge has also a lino soil, thonorh if, is as ycl principally in a stale of nature. — JJayon Uohcrt, still nearer to I'ed lliv(.'r, is of extraordinary fertility, and ■'. the cano brake idonij its bank is of astonishing In.vuriance. Bayou ''^*' Rapide, which ^ives nanu; to the parish, thronnh which it runs, is a beau- tifnl tract of land; and the belt on either baidi is laid out along its whole conrs(! in line cotton plantations. The bottoms of Red River are well known as possessing extraordinary fertility; and the lower courses of this viver constitute tho paradise of cotton ])Ianters. Tho color of tlu; soil is of a darkish red, and api)cars to derive its jjreat fertility from a portion o( salt intimately mixed with it, and from its peculiar friability. It derives its red colour from red oxide of iron. It is a wide and deep vall(;y, covered, wliiio in a state of nature, with a dark and heavy forest. Its soil has been accumulating for un- known ages from the spoils of the Mexican mountains, and the vast *' prairies, througli which it rolls in its upper coiuses. All the bayous of Ucd River, and they are luunerous almost beyond computation, partake of tho character of the main river. The parish of Natchitoclus lias its plantations on the bank of Red IJiver, and its divisions; fov the river runs in this parish for a considerable distance in three parallel divisions. A vast body of rich alluvial lands, '**' on the river above Natchitoches, is yet covered by unad indicated claims, or belongs to the United States. 'J'iie lands on the Washita are black, like those on the Mississipjti. The alluvions on the lower courses of this * river furnish an adniivable soil for cotton, and all productions that require the same climate. The linest lands on thi^iivt;r'are covered by the un- adjiidicated claims of the iJaronde l{asta)p, Maison Rouge, and Winter. These claims are of i; real extent; and the lands, generally first rate. These arc the districts in Louisiana tnosl noted for possessing first rate •Tm^* ■* i I If f li ;ft li m % ~^^ 338 M>irifiI,\NA. .?* lands. But in lliis luvcl ro^i«)ii, wliolly true Iron) nioi nliiins, ami prccipi' tous liills, uud Htcrilo lieiitlis, then; occur even in llio pine wijuds ami the poorest prairies, tracts, that in otiicr pnrls of the United States would be culled comparatively t'crtilo Agriculture and productions. Wheat nnd rye do not flourish her«. The culture of these grains has been attempted, and it is said with suc- cess in Allcn^t) settlement in the north-wist angle of the state. But in general the stalks grow too rapidly, and lodge, before they come to matu- rity. Barley ond oats suci-oed well. — Tlic latter are generally mowed for fodder at the latter end of April. Maize grows luxuriantly on tlie alluvions and rich lands. But although this fuio crop has a wonderful luxuriance of growth, it is more congenial to the climates of Kentucky, Ohio, Missouri, and Illinois or the cooler climates of the middle states. In tlie south it grows with such rapidity, and is pushed forward so fast by the soil and climate, that it docs not rear a stalk of equal size and firmness, with that attained in the former climates. — Nevertheless, fifty, sixty, and even seventy bushels to the acre are not uncommon crops. Forty-five bushels may bo assumed as the medium crop of the maize lands in this state. The sweet potatoe, convulvulus batatas, in tlit sandy soils of this state attains its utmost perfection. We have seen one, which weighed nine pounds. They are of diflerent s| cies; but all extremely nutritive) and raised with great ease and abundance. They are the favorite food of the blacks, and constitute un excellent nutriment for all classes. The Irish potatoe is raised with more difficulty, and is not cultivated ex- cept for eating in the early part of the summer; and for some cause not yet explained, can not be preserved tlirough tlie year. The usual garden vegetables are cultivated in abundance; though some, as for instance, cabbages do not grow as fine, as at the north. The asparagus is indifferent.— Onions do not grow the first year to any size* Small onions of tlie preceding year are placed in the ground for setts. The pumpkin and tlie melon tribe flom ish in this climate. All the nor- thern fruits come to perfection, with the exception of apples. The apple tree covera itself with blossoms and fruit, which, before it ripens, begins to show a black speck, to*z, and falls. Figs of the different kinds grow in the greatest abundance) and from descriptions of the tree in the east- ern continent, we should suppoF<^, that it here attains its largest size. They might be raised in great abundance for exportation. All that is necessary for raising this delicious fruit, is to put a slip of the tree in ground. It is astonishing, that such a fruit which grows almost sponta- neously, is hardly, raised, except on a few farms, even for summer eating. >€ .r ij^jaj.- w LOI'ISIANA. 390 SlZCv setts, e nor- applo )egin8 grow 9 east' size, lat is reein x>nta- mmer Below Point Conpco on llio ronst, nn tlio Inworrotirscs of tlio Teche, l.nfourche, Phqurminr, nnd aloiijr thf whole nlinre of the j^ulf, that is to pny in the region of (he nnpnr cmip, iho onn«.'(» froo, swcot and bitter, flotiriiihes, and the friiil is of ihr fiiitsf (|ii!ilit y. Prcviona to 1N22 omngel were lying under the trrrs, ns th(» apples at the north. A severe frost that winter, destroyed th(! trees in this slalt; (|uilo to the ground. The roots have thrown out new trees, wliich nre again in a bearing state. The olive would undoubtedly flourish. It in l»elieved, that there are a few trees in bearing in the state. The cultivated vino, vitvi viniferOf flourishes, and an abundance of fine fruit is ollerod in the markets. Wild grajies as the summer, winter, fox, nniscadinc and pine wood's grape abound. Berries are neither ho common, nor so good, as at the north. Persimons and pawpaws and a variety of haws and wild fruit are common in the woods. It would carry us beyond our ol)ject, to describe the wild and cultivat- ed flowering shrubs, which flourish in this region of flowers. The jessamine, the althca and rose class arc the most common. The multi flora is a running vine, which attains an inconceivable luxuriance. Two or three summers only are necessary, completely to envelope a building with this grateful verdure, and these abundant flowers. China, Catalpa, and sycamore are the most common ornamental trees. The abundance of mulberry trees seems to invite the making of silk, in a climate similar to those^ where it is made in the greatest quantities in the old world. ' Agriculture is in its infancy, and in a state of roughness adapted only to the labor of negroes ; and has for its object only to obtain the greatest amount of the staple crop. A great number of rich fruits and valuable productions, congenial to such a soil and climate, have been en- tirely unattempted. Experiments, except in regard to the selection of the best kinds of cotton, and the best mode of growing it, or the kind of cane that is most productive, have not been commenced. One or two spirited individuals have recently attempted to awaken attention to the cultivation of the tea plant. Benne, which yields an oil, like that of olives, succeeds well. Indigo was formerly a prime object of attention with the planters. The cultivation has been of late in a great measure abandoned. The rice is remarkably fair, and yields abundantly. There are great extents of land, favorable for the cultivation of the upland rice; and no limits can be assigned to the amount, that might be raised ; but the grand staples being more profitable, little more is raised, thai' for home consumption, in a country, where an immense extent of swamps might be profitably devoted to that article. Tiw! land brings tobacco of the finest quality. That, which is cultivated in tlic vicinity of Natchito- ( • 1 J>'. % be pushed night and day. It is deemed a more severe and wearing task to work this crop, than that of cotton^ It has been a general impression even in this state, where the true state of the case ought to be understood, that sugar could not be made to profit, unless the planter had a large force and capital, and could rear expensive houses and machinery. * This im- pression has hitherto deterred small planters from attempting to cultivate the cane. But it has been found by experience, that sugar can be made to profit with as small a capital, as is required for commencing a cotton plantation. Louisiana produces an average crop annually of more than 100,000 hogsheads of sugar, and five million gallons of molasses. Whatever gen- eral views may be taken of the tariif, it cannot but be admitted on all hands, that the grand result of this cultivation is owing to the protecting duty on sugar; and that this individual branch of agriculture has become in some measure identified with the prosperity of the union in general and the West in particular. Buchisa sketch of the agriculture of Louisiana, It is the most pro- ductive, according to the number of hands employed, and acres worked, in the United States. No country, perhaps, Cuba excepted, with the same population, exports of its own growth, articles of more value than I^ouisiana. " • • . f LOUISIANA. 843 Slaves. As this states contains a greater number of slaves, in proper* tion to its population, than any other in the western country, we shall bring into one compass all the general remarks, which we shall make upon the aspect and character of slavery in the Mississippi valley. It will be seen, from the table of jiopulalion, that considerably more than one half of the whole population of this state are slaves. Formerly they did not increase in this state, and required importations from abroad, to keep up the number. But, since ex'iierience and humanity have dictated more rational and humr.ne modes ofmannging the sick and the children, by car- rying them during the sickly manlhs, to the same places of healthy re- tirement, to which their masters retire, they are found to increase as rapidly here, as ihey do elsewhere. It is well known, that under favorable circumstances, they are more prolific than the whites. Retlecting minds cannot but view with apprehension the remote consequences of this order of things. It is not among the objects of this work to discuss the moral character of slavery, or to contemplate the subject in any of its abstract bearings. We can pronounce, from what we consider a thorough knowledge of the subject, that the condition of the slaves here, the treatment, which they receive, and the character of their masters have been much misrepresent- ed in the non-slave-holding states. We pretend to none, but historical knowledge of the state of tilings, which has existed here in past time. At present wo are persuaded, there are but few of those brutal and cruel masters, which the greatest portion of the planters were formerly suppos- ed to be. The masters now study popularity with their slaves. If there must be the odium of severity, it is thrown upon the overseer, who becomes a kind of scape goat to bear away the offences of the master. There is now no part of the slave-holding country in the south-west, where it would not be u deep stain upon the moral character to be generally reputed a cruel master. In many plantations no punishment is inflicted except after a trial by a jury, composed of the fellow servants of the party accus« ed. Festival prizes and rewards are instituted, as stimulants to exertion, and compensations for superior accomplishments of labor. They are gen- erally well fed, and clothed, and that not by an arbitrary award, which might vary with the feelings of the master; but by periodical apportion- ment like the distributed rations of soldiers, of what has been experimented to be sufficient to render them comfortable. Considerable attention is paid to their quarters, and most of them comfortably lodged and housed. Nor are they destitute, as has been supposed, of any legal protection, coming between them and the cupidity and cruelty of their masters. — • The 'codenoir' of Louisiana is a curious collection of statutes, drawn partly from French and Spanish law and usage, and partly from the cus» 4^ 4V1MF LOUISIANA. toms of the islands, and usages, which have grown oi'» of the peculiar circumstances of Louisiana, while a colony. I', has the aspect, it must be admitted, of being formed rather for (lie advantage of the master, than the servant, for it prescribes an unlimited homage and obedience to Ihe former. It makes a misdemeanor on liis part towards his master a very different offence, from a wanton abuse of power towards the servant. But at the same time, it defines crimes, that the master can commit, in relation to the slave, and prescribes the mode of trial, and the kind and degree of punishment. It constitutes unnecessary correction, maiming, and niurder, punishable offences in a master. It is very minute in pre- scribing the number of hours, which the master may lawfully exact to be employed in labor, and the number of hours, which he must allow his slave for meal times and for rest. It prescribes the time and extent of his holidays. In short it settles with minuteness and detail the whole circle of relations between master and slave, defining and prescribing what the former may, and may not, exact of the latter. Yet after all these minute provisions, the slave finds the chief alleviation of his hard condition, and his best security against cruel treatment, and his most valid bond for kind and proper deportment towards him, in the increasing light, humanity and force of public opinion. That the slave is, also, in the general circumstances of his condition, as happy as this relation will admit of his being, is an unquestionable fact. That he seldom performs as much labor, or performs it as well, as a free man, proves all in regard to the value of those motives, which free- dom only can supply, which can be desired. In all the better managed plantations, the mode of building the quarters is fixed. The arrange- ment of the little village has a fashion, by which it is settled. Interest, if not humanity, [has defined the amount of food and rest, necessary for their health; and there is in a large and respectable plantation as much precision in the rules, as much exactness in the times of going to sleep, awakening, going to labor, and resting before and after meals, as in a garrison under military discipline, or in a ship of war. A bell gives all the signals. Every slave at the assigned hour in the morning, is forth coming to his labor, or his case is reported, either as one of idleness, obstinacy, or sickness, in which case he is sent to the hospital, and there he is attended by a physician, who for the most part, has a yearly salary for attending to all the sick of the plantation. Tiie union of physical force, directed by one will, is now well understood to have a much greater effect upon the amount of labor, which a number of hands, so managed, can bring about, than the same force directed by as many wills as there are hands. Hence it happens, that while one free man, circumstances being the same, will perform more labor than one slave, one hundred ^ LOUISIANA. 245 slaves will accomplish more on one plantation, than so many hired free men, acting at their own discretion. Ilencc, too, it is, that such a prodi- gious quantify of cotton and siignr is made here, in proportion to the number of laborin/j Imnds. All tlio j roccss of agrlcullure are managed by system. Every tliinr^' goes straight f irward. There is no pulling down to-day the scheme of yesterday, and the whole amount offeree is directed by the teaching of experience to the best result. If we could lay out of the question, the intrinsic evils of the case, that would be a cheering sight, which is presented by a large Louisiana plan- tation. The fields arc as level, and as regular in their figures, as gardens. They sometimes contain 3 or 400 acres in one enclosure; and we have seen from a dozen to twenty ploughs all making their straight furrows through a field, a mile in dci)th, with a regularity, which, it would be supposed, could only be obtained by a line. The plough is generally worked oy a single mule, and guided by a singe hand, who cheers the long course of his furrow with a song. Rimra. East of the Mississippi fall into that river Bayou Sarah, and one or two other small streams. Into the efflux, or Bayou Manshac, or Ibbervilie, as it passes from the Mississippi to Luke Maurepas, fall the Amite, and some other inconsiderable streams. The Ticfah fall into Lake Maurepas. The Tangipao falls info Lake Ponchartrain, as do Chiffuncte and Bonfouca. Pearl river divides between this state and Mississippi, and falls into the rigolets, near Pearlington. None of them except Pearl River, which has been already described, have courses of more than 70 or 80 miles, and they are navigable by schooners to a con- siderable distance from the lake. They rise in the state of Mississippi. Chiffuncte aflTords the best harbor on the lake. The effluxes on the west side of the river, in ascending, are, first, the Bayou Lafourche; next Plaquemine; and the last Atchafalaya, or as it is universally pronounced ChalFalio. Lafourche breaks out from the Mississippi at Donaldsonvillc, 90 miles above New Orleans, and taking a south-east course, finds its separate channel to the gulf of Mexico, about 50 miles west of the Balizc. The Plaquemine, still further up, carries out at times a great anci sweeping body of water from the Mississippi. After running some distance through a very rich tract of country, it unites with the Atchafalaya in one broad stream, which, before it passes into the gulf, receives the Teclie, a stream which passes through the fertile plains of Opelousas and Attaka|ias. The Mississippi pursues a very direct course through this s*^^ate to the sea. It recently cut itself a passage across the point of the bend opposite the mouth of Red River, thereby diminishing the distance between Natchez and New Orleans 30 miles. The same thing must shortly occur :>. \ LOUISIANA. at Tunica Bend, both of which will reduce the water distance between these towns from 300 lo 200 miles. By another 'cut off in the vicinity of the Chickasaw Blufff<, the distance has been sliortcnod between Natchez and the mouth of the Ohio. In this way, nature and human effurt com- bining, this noble river in no great length of time, will be made to flow in a right line, or reach, as the Mississippi phrase is, to tlie gulf. At a very little distance IjcIow the mouth of Red Ilivcr, the Atchafa- laya breaks out from the west bonk with an outlet, apparently of the same width with Red River, and it is supposed, carrying off from the Mississippi as much water, as Red River brings in. It has such a position to the bend of the Mississippi, as that immense masses of drift Vv'ood and limber, passing down that river, are swept into this outlet. This accum- ulating mass soon meets with obstructions, and is jammed together into a raft, which rises and falls with the rising and falling of the Bayou. A considerable vegetation of shrubs and flowering plants has been formed on the surface of this floating timber; and a man might pass directly over this vast mass of waters, withou\knowing when he was crossing it. The raft is eight or ten miles in extent, and is supposed to contain a mass of more than two million cords of w^od and timber. The medial width of the Bayou is little more than 200 yards. It has a winding cours?, traverses many points of the compass, and receives the water of the Mis- sissippi overflow at a different place in its course. Its length, before it falls into the gulf, measuring its meanders, is nearly 200 miles, and its comparative course 130. The Teche commences in Opelousas, receiving a great number of streams, that rise in the prairies. It winds through Opelousas and Atta- kapas, and meets the tide at New Iberia, to which point it is navigable, the Teche having 8 feet on its bar, and 20 feet within. It flows about 45 miles further, before it is lost in the Atchafalaya, which it enters by a mouth 200 yards wide. It has a course, computing its meanderings, of 180 or 190 miles. West of the Teche are the Vermillion, Courtableau, Calcasiu, and Sabine, streams of considerable importance, beside a very great number of smaller streams, which rise, except the Sabine, in the woods on the south-western parts of the state, and thence emerge into the prairies, and unite either with the streams above named, or fall into the lakes, which skirt all this front of the state. Indeed, the whole boundary of Opelousas and Attakapas on the gulf, is a chain of lakes, some larger, and some smaller, and almost innumerable. The margin of the sea shore, for some distance back into the country, is a dead level, and below the tides, which are created by a strong south wind, in which caso the sea throws its waters over great extents of these marshy plains. W hen the rivers reach the J' LOUISIANA. 247 lakes and the vicinity of tho gulf, they communicate with the lakes by many mouths, and by each other with numberless lateral communications; BO that the connections of the hikes and the streams form an immense tis- sue of net work, and the numbers of boatuble communications are only known to the inhabitants in tlieir vicinity, who have been long, and inti- mately acquainted witli the country. We may remark in passing, that ine soil on the Atchafalaya is red like that of Red River. From the widtli of the Bayou, and its vicinity, we in- fer, that it was once the channel of Red River, by which that river pursued its own independent course to the gulf, without mingling its waters with those of the Mississippi. The soil on the banks of the Tcchc is red, and shows, also, that it once had some connection with Red River. Its alluvions have many points of resemblance to those of that river. Like them, these also, aro ofexhaustlcss ferlily. They ai-e settled, in their whole extent, until they become so low as to be subject to inundation. Except the coast above New Orleans, it presents the largest and compactest settlement in the state. It is remarked of this stream, thvt it presents manifest indica- tions of having once been the channel of a much greater volume of water, than it carries at present. The channel grows broader and deeper beyond the Fusilier, for an hundred miles. At the former place it is 50 yards wide, and at low water three feet deep. When it enters the Atcha- falaya, its channel is 100 yards wide, and it has twenty feet water. Between the two points it has received no water to account for this en- largement. ■• Bayou Boeuf and Cocodri, rising near Red River in the Pine Hills, wind through a very fertile alluvion, and unite in Opelousas, to form the Courtableau, which waters the richest part of Opelousas. Vermillion, Mermentau, and Courtableau all rise near each other, in level table lands near the centre of Opelousas. Each of them have valuable lands lying on their banks. We can do no more, in conformity with our limits, than give some of the names of the more conspicuous bayous, that go to form those which we have mentioned, and which wind in different directions through the vast prairies, between the Atchafalaya and the Sabine. In this distance we cross the Derbane, Waushka, Tensa, Fusilier, Carrion, Cocodri Bayou Cane, Bayou Mellet, Petit Anse, Bayou Sale, Bayou Nezpique, Plaque- mine, Brule, Queue Tortue, Bayou Chicot, Bayou Grand Louis, Lacasine, Carrion Crow, and a great number of streams of less importance, that are properly streams of ij e prairies. . Below the open prairies, there are a number of Bayous, that belong to the Atchafalaya, and the Plaqnemine ; such as the Gros Tete, Bayon ^ "f'fi'i. \v ' m if.:- '' ■- 24S LOUISIANA. l* Maringouin, Bayou Mansir, an cillux from the Mississippi, Grand and Petit Caillou, Bayou Pcau do Clievruill, Bayou Largo, and many others. Near a singular lull hetwcen Opelousns and Avoyelles rise the Bayoua Rouge and Petite Prairie, They run through a rich soil, and an im- mensely deep and heavy forest. Bayou Rouge is a circular hill, rising from a great extent of adjacent level and swampy lands, and which, hut for its extent might l;e taken for an Indian mound. The small and wretched remains of the Tunica triho of Indians reside here. This tribe at a distant period, was desolated by a massacre, perpetrated on them by the Natchez Indians. Here, intermediate between Red River and the gulf, and isolated from savage and social man, intercourse with whom has been alike ruinous to them, by inundated swamps and deep and pathless forests, they dwell in solitude. Before we proceed to describe the two great rivers of Louisiana, Red River and the Washita, whose tracts lead,us into the interior, we propose to name the principal lakes of Louisiana, as the larger of them either communicates directly with the gulf, or lie in its vicinity. Lake Maure- pas, Ponchartrain, and Borgne form an extended chain east of the Missis- sippi. Lake Maurepas is of a circular form, and is comparatively small. It communicates with lake Ponchartrain by a narrow pass. Lake Pen chartrain is 40 miles long and 28 wide. It communicates by two narrow passes, called rigolels, with lake B;)rgne, which is 35 miles long and 12 wide. These lakes, though navigated by a great number of small vessels, principally schooners, are shallow, except in a channel through their dentre. Lake Borgne has seldom more than six feet water, except in this channel. When the wind rises, these shallow lakes are subject to what is called a ground swell, and their navigation is dangerous. The lakes west of the Mississippi, along the shores of the gulf, and between Red River and Washita, are too numerous for us to enumerate. A complete catalogue, enibracing them all, large and small, would swell the number to hundreds. The chief of them are Barataria, Attaka- pas. Prune, Salt Water, (Jreen, Grand, Mermentau, Calcasiu, and Sabine on the gulf, ind Long, Calahoola, lalt. Saline, Natchitoches, Spanish, Black, Bistineau, Bodau, Pisquota, and many smaller ones between Washita and Red River, and Red River and the Sabine; and Concordia, Homochitto, and Providence lakes belonging to the Mississippi. West of that river are also the smaller lakes, Chittimachcs, Natchez, Des Islets, Levy, Little Lake, Palourd, Quacha, Ronde, St. John, and St. Joseph. Some of these lakes ire many miles in extent, and others are little larger than the collection of water, called ponds at the north. That some of them are of recent origin is proved by the fact, that in the midst of them are vast extents of water, out of which rise thousands LOUISIANA. 240 of deep cypress trees, still standing erect, where boats pass, and fish are taken in tlie driest seasons. As you approach these lakes, which abound in tisli, through the deep forests, which skirt them, you are warned of your approach to thorn by observing the trees shrouded in a deeper drapery of long moss. They huvc generally on their shores a skirt of rich soil, resembling an alluvion. Sabine. This river rises in Texas, in latitude 32° 30' and flows south- wardly, entering this state at its south-west angle, in the parish of Natch- itoches. Thence it forms the dividing line between Louisiana and the states of Mexico. It has a course of 400 miles; and in high stages of its waters, when the obstructions of small timber rafts are cleared out of it, is susceptible of good sSteam boat navigation, as high as the great crossing on the road from Natchitoches to the Spanish country. In low stages of water it has but four feet water over the bar at its mouth. — Like the other rivers of this state, it broadens into a wide lake before it enters the gulf It enters it through a vast and solitary prairie of un- common sterility, uncheered by the distant view of vessels, or any traces of social existence. A few wandering savages are sometimes seen diminished to moving atoms. The wild deer browses unmolested; and the sea fowls scream unterrified by the report of the gun. The prairie is as illimitable by the eye, as the ocean, on which it borders. — Its wide alluvion contains lands only of second rate quality. It waters the most hilly parts of the state. Among those hills there are frequent streams, some lakes and ponds, and oftentimes small strips of good second rate land. This stream derives its chief consequence from its position, as the line of separation between the United States and Mexico. Washita. This large river rises in the Masserne mountains, in the Territory of Arkansas, in latitude 34°. North Fork, Washita Fork, and South Fork imite to form the main river, which, after tlowing something more than 100 miles, receives from the north, Hot Spring Fork. Eight leagues below, it receives the Cado, and the same distance lower down, (lie Jiittle Missouri. The Saline rises at no great distance from the Hot Springs, and after a winding course of 150 miles, flows into the Washita just above the limits of this state. The Bayou Barthelemy rises ten leagues south of the Sabine, and joins the Washita a league above Fort Miro. The Chandron comes in from the south, and the Boeuf and the Mucon having its head waters in Providence lake, from the north. The JMtler, with some small slre^irns united to it, forms the Tcnsa. On the other side comes in Catahoola, or Little River. Of this river, the Diigdemony is a principal branch. Little River, in its course, passes through Catahoola lake, and uniting with tlie Tensa in a deep swampy '32 ■:irii ^:Pi M' m 250 liOl'I^IANA. forest, forms Black River, which, 80011 nl'ler the junction, mixes its waters with Red River. The soil of the alluvions of Washita, in its lower courses, is black, «nd extremely fertile. Its upper waters run through a mountainous region, the description of whicii naturally falls under the head of Arkansas Territory. The lower waters of this river rise in the Pine Hills, and have on their banks second rate land, until a short distance from their union with the main river, when the soil becomes of the same quality with that of the main river. On the alluvions and bayous are alieady a great number of fine cotton plantations; and there is an extent of rich, unoccupied cotton lands for a much greater number still. The natural productions of this river, and its waters in this state, are considered no way inferior to those of the best parts of the Mississippi, and are the same, with the exception of the sugar cane, which is not known to have Deen attempted on its waters. Red River. This is one of the most considerable tributaries of the Mississippi. Its width of channel, in its lower courses, does by no means correspond to its length of course, or the immense mass of waters, which it rolls to its parent stream. But in high waters, when it has arrived within 3 or 400 miles of that river, it is often divided into two or three parallel channels, and a line of bayous and lakes connected with it, takes up its superabundant waters, and they are a considerable time in filling; and prevent the river from displaying its breadth and amount of waters, as it does in the high lands 500 miles above, where the whole river flows through high lands in one broad stream. It takes its rise in a chain of hills near Santa Fe, in New Mexico, called, we know not by what authority, the Caous Mountains. In its upper courses it receives Blue River, and False Washita. It winds through a region of prairies, on which feed droves of buffaloes, cattle, and wild horses. In these regions it receives a great many considerable tributaries, the names of which have not yet been given. Between the Pawnee and the state of Louisiana it receives Kimichie, Vasseux, and Little River, from the north. From the south enter the Bois d'Arc, and Little River of the south. The Bodcau, Dacheet, Black Lake, and Saline Rivers enter Red River after it enters Louisiana. There are fine tracts of land on the Dacheet and Saline. — Wells are sunk in a salt plain, near the Saline, from which considerable quantities of salt are made. Black Lake River is a considerable stream, on the banks of which, among the hills, are found great varieties of petrifactions of every sort. Lake Bistineau communicates with Red River. Petrifactions abound on its shores, and this remote and romantic sheet of water has some of the most delightful scenery on its shorei?. LOUIgI/V?l/v. !25t Tlirough the greater amount of its course, Red River winds through immense prairies of a red soil co\ ..red with grass and vines, that bear deUcious grapes. On its hanks is tho ruvoritc range of the butfaloe, and other game, peculiar to the vast wosfcrn oceans of prairies. About thirty leagues above Natchitochos, commences the Raft, which is nothing more than an broad swampy expansion of the alluvion of the river to the width of 20 or 30 miles. The river, spreading hero into a vast number of channels, frequently shallow of course, has been for ages clogging with a compact mass of tinjber, and fallen trees wafted from the upper regions. Between these masses the river has a channel, sometimes lost in a lake, and found by following the outlet of that lake back to the parent channel. There is no stage of the water, in wliich a keel boat with an experienced pilot may not make its way tlirough the raft. Wo have seen a considerable steam boat, which was built above the raft, and floated through it in an unfinished state. The river is blocked up by this immense mass of timber for a length, on its meanders, of between 60 and 70 miles. There are places where the water can be seen in motion under the logs. In other places, the whole width of the river may be crossed on horseback, and boats only make their way, in passing these places, by following the inlet of a lake, and coasting it to its outlet, and thus finding the channel again. Weeds, flowering shrubs, and small willows have taken root upon the surface of this timber, and flourish above the waters. But in all these places the courses of the river, its outline, and its bends are distinctly marked by a margin of forest trees, which grow here on the banks in the same manner, as they do where the channel is open. It is an impediment of incalculable injury to the navigation of this noble river, and the immense extent of fine country above it. There is, probably, no part of the United States where the unoccupied lands have higher claims, from soil, climate, intermixture of prairies and timbered lands, position, and every inducement to population, than the country between the Raft and Kimichie. This country would be settled with greater rapidity, were it not for the obstruction which this raft opposes to tlje navigation of the river. The state has made an effort to have it removed. Accurate surveys of it have been made, and the General Government has made an appropriation for this purpose. The river abotS;^ the Raft becomes broad, deep, and navigable for steam boats in moderate stages of the water 1,000 miles towards the mountains. Below the Raft, as we have remarked, the river divides itself into many channels, and fills such a number of bayous and lakes, that lie parallel to the river, that the bare enumeration of their names would carry us beyond I *??" 852 LOiriRIANA. ourobject. The valloy of this very intcrrsfinjr river hns a widih (if tliroo or four mileH, an hi^'h as the Kiinichic, or, as it is eominonly railed Kiamesia, nearly a tliniiHand miles from its mouth, following its meanders, It broadens, as it slopes towards the Mississippi, and has, for a iuii/r distance from its mouth, a valley from six to ei«{hteen miles m widih. Of all the broad and Ibrfilo alluvions of the Mississippi streams, no one exceeds this. It compares in many more poiiits with the famous Nile, than the Mississijjpi, to which that river lias so often been likened Cotton is at present the stai)lo article of the ^'rowtli of its lower course'. Sugar cane is at this time in an extensive scale of ex|X!riment, and will, probably, hereafter be raised in abundance; and the broad and friilo plains of this river as far as Natchitoches, will be converted into siiijar plantations. The alluvions of Rapide, Coteille, Boouf, Robert, Riyolot Bon Dieu, Aux Cannes, and the other waters of the lower parts of llio river, in fact of all its waters, ns far as 32^, seem to bo jMJCuliarly fitted for this cultivation. This valley spreads from east to west, instead of north and south, like the Mississippi, The immense masses of cold water which that river brings down from the northern regions, must sensibly affect the temperature of the air on its banks. In descending from Red River to New Orleans, we have observed, that vegetation in the spring was more than a week in advance of that on the INIississppi, although farther to the south. We believe, that cane will thrive as well on this river in 31°, as it does on the Mississippi in 30°. All the chief streams of the river have the same soil and character with the main river. Indeed the lands on Bayou Rapide, Robert, and Boeuf, are supposed to be richer than those of the main river. It is considered the best land for cotton in the United States. It is of a reddish tinge, mellow, friable, slightly impreg^ nated with salt, and biings forward in great luxuriance all the vegetation, that is proper to its climate. Its indigo and tobacco are considered the best in Louisiana. It is deemed unnecessary to enumerate the trees, shrubs and vines, that are common to the valley of this river and the Washita. We have already included them in our general remarks upon the trees of the western country. We shall only remark, that the greater part, which belong properly to the not them and middle regions of the country, are also found here. We except the chesnut, although the chincapin, a species of the chesnut, grows here. It wants the orange and the live oak of the more southern parts of the state. The laurel tribe is very abundant, as are the oaks and hickories. In the eastern division of Opelousas, forty different species of trees have been found growing within the space of a few miles. The live oak seems to indicatc,,that as we advance west in the LOUISIANA. t>53 same pnmllol, ilio frmponhirf (lirniiiislirH. In flio wostrrn parts of flio hUiU) it rolirort lo tlio sotitli, and is no wliorc; fourul so far north as tlio vicinity of Mobilf. J/ilandf'. lOust of tlio .Mississip[>i md fronfin/r this sfatp, there arc a ntimbcr of islands, i\]()ui, the piiii<-ipal islands along the gulf shore arc Barataria, Ihe noted r«'soit of Lafitte's piratical squadron, Thomas^ La Croix, and Ascension Islands. The soil of these islands is generally of the richest character. They are covered with a dense forest of live oaks and other trees, and abound in deer, turkeys, and other game. Millions of s(ni fowls, at the proper seasons, frequent the inlets and bays contiguous to them, and oysters and fish are in the greatest abundance, and of the most excellent quality. Thomas' Island is acquiring reputation as a resort for health. From the purity of the air of the gulf, and the cool breeze of the trade winds, and the opportunities of sea bathing, and the refreshing verdure of the island, it would be a delightful summer residence, were it not for the annoyance of its myriads of musquitos. As it is, it is a charming place in which to pass the winter. These islands have come in demand, since the recent discovery, that their soil and climate arc peculiarly favorable to the cultivation of tlie sugar cane. They will soon be covered with that kind of cultivation. Although there are extensive marshes between them and the high grounds of Attakapas, yet as these marshes are situated north of the islands, and as the summer winds blow almost invariably from the south, they have all the chances for being salubrious, that they would have, if they were wholly removed from marshes. Thomas' island is connected with the main land by a cause way. There is an astonishing peculiarity apper- taining to this, and most of the islands along this shore. Rising from tlie sea in the midst of a marsh, skirted by an immense prairie, as level almost as the gulf, and elevated but a few feet above its surface, the islands rise like bluff hills, and have an elevation rated diflcrently from twenty to one hundred feet above the sea, and above the prairies in the vicinity. The singularity of the appearance, which they present from this circumstance, can only be readily conceived by one, wlio has seen the country. To find the cause of this elevation, and to accoimt for it on geological prin- ciples, has furnished new employment for geologists. 254 LOUISIANA. Beside the ica islands, there are many lake and marsh islands on thl» shore, some of them of considerable extent. Sicily Island, between Ca- tahoola and Natchez is not only a body of fine soil, but from its position and appearance, presents an aspect of great interest. In the midst of a vast swamp, and insulated by marshes and bayous, and in the season of high waters by the overflow of the Mississippi, a large body of the richest alluvial land, entirely above the highest floods, rises like a glacis to bluffs of pine woods, and we see their ever verdant tops waving above the ▼ast surrounding morass. On this island are some of the best planta- tions in the parish of Catahoola. Bays. We have seen that the shores of the gulf are generally low. They are especially so along the front of this state. Vast extents of marsh and trembling prairie interpose between the sea and the cultivable lands. The lakes, inlets and sounds are connected by an inextricable tissue of communications and passes accessible by vessels and baycraft, are impossible to be known except by pilots, perfectly acquainted with the waters. Hence the security afforded to small piratical vessels, command- ed by men, who could guide them by sinuous and narrow channels, where none, but the most experienced pilots could follow them. The shore is indented by numberless small bays, very few of them affording sufficient water to shelter vessels. Berwick's Bay is the only one, that has any considerable extent. Prairies. A very great proportion of the surface of this state is covered with prairies. Almost all these prairies are connected, and form, like the waters of the Mississippi, a family, through which the connection of of all the branches may be traced. The prairies, that are included un- der the general name of Attakapas, are the first, that occur west of the Mississippi. The parish of Attakapas is situated in these prairies. The name implies * man cater,'' in the language of the savages, who formerly inhabited it, and who are reported to have been cannibals. It is an im- mense plain of grass, spreading from the Atchafalaya on the north to the gulf on the south. Being open to the gulf, it is generally fanned by the refreshing breezes of that sea. Its aspect of extreme fertility, its bound- less plain of grass, its cheering views, its dim verdant outline, mingling with the blue of the sky, white houses seen in the distance, innu- merable cattle and horses grazing on the plain, or reposing here and there under the shade of its wooded points have an indescribable pleasant- ness to the traveller, who has been toiling on his way through the tangle, the swamps, and along stagnant lakes, and the dark and deep forest of the Mississippi bottom. All at once he leaves the stifling air, the musquitoes, the rank cane, the annoying nettles, and the dark brown T.OUlSIANAt 255 shade, and emerges in (liis noble and cheerful plain, and feels the cool and salubrious breeze of the gulf. At first he finds it almost painful to dilate that vision, which has so long been confined in the forest, to the •contemplation of the boundless prospect, before him. He sees, spread -out under his eye, an immense tract of beautiful country, containing in 1820, more than 12,000 people, all subsisting by agriculture. Advancing west, he passes from this to Opelousas prairie, still larger than the other, and computed to contain nearly 8,000 square miles. It is divided by bayous, wooded grounds, points and bends, and other natural boundaries, into a number of prairies, which have separate names and marks of distinction. Taken in its whole extent, it is bounded by the Attakapas prairie on the east, pine woods and hills on the north, the Sabine on the west, and the gulf on the south. Tiie soil, though in many places very fertile, is in general less so, than the former. It atones for that deficiency by being more salubrious, being generally deemed the healthiest region in the state. There are here very considerable cotton plantations, and some of indigo; and the parish, which bears its name, is one of the most populous in the state. The people of the former are devoted to the growth of the sugar cane. This is the centre of the land of shepherds. The greater number of the people are chiefly devoted to that employment, and they number their cattle by thousands. Bellevue prairie is partly in Opelousas, partly in Attakapas. It affords, as its name imports, a delightful prospect. It is watered on its western limits by Bayou Queue Tortue, Plaquemine Brule, Bayou Melet, Prairie Grand Chevruil, Laurent, Alabama, WikofTs', Le Melles', Avoyelles', Merom, or Marom Grand prairie. Calcasiu and Sabine prairies are names, that designate the difl!erent forms, shapes and openings of this continuous line of prairies, as it stretches along the settlements from the Plaquemine to the Sabine. Some of them, as Opelousas, are of immense extent. That of the Sabine is boundless to the vision. Calcasiu is seventy miles lonw by twenty wide. They are generally so level, as to strike the eye as a perfect plain. They have, however, slight swells and declinations, sufficient to carry the water from them. Though after long rains they are extremely wet, and immense tracts are covered with water. They have a gentle and imperceptible slope towards the gulf, and generally terminate, before they reach the shore, in wet marshes, into which, when the south wind blows, the sea is driven. These marshes are covered with a luxuriant growth of tall, reedy grass, called cane grass. In various parts of these prairies, there are islands of timbered lands. They generally have an ap- pearance of such regularity and beauty, that a stranger is witli difficulty 256 LOUISIANA. convinced, that tliey are not clumps of trees, planted out in circuhir, square, or triangular forms for the beauty of their appearance. It would be impossible to convey to one, who has not felt it, an idea of the effect produced by one of these circular clumps of trees, seeming a kind of tower of verdure, rising from an ocean of grass. Wherever a bayou, or a stream crosses the prairie, it is marked wilh a fringe of timber, which strikes the eye of an observer, like the lines of trees in landscape painting. At the points of these prairies, and wherever the streams and bayous cross them, the soil is rich. But they become of a thinner and more sterile soil, as we advance towards the Sabine. Attakapas is the first and most fertile, and that of the Sabine the last and the most sterile. On the skirts even of the poorer prairies, near water courses and abundant winter range, there is a sparse population quite to the Sabine. The situations are generally selected with a view to their being favorable for the raising of cattle. There are a few cotton plantations beyond Opelousas prairie. But most of the people subsist by raising cattle and horses. Some years since, three men of this region numbered above 15,000 head of horned cattle, and 2,000 horses and mules. Some of the situations on these lonely, but delightful prairies, have been selected with such refer- ence to beauty and prospect, that we question if any in Arcadia surpass- ed them. They raise sheep, the mutton of which is excellent; but the wool coarse. Many of the horses are of the Andalusian and Numidian breed ; and the cattle sleek, slender, elegantly formed, and spirited in their movements. They are driven to New Orleans for a market. Many of the inhabitants are French, clad in leather, abounding with milk and honey, often opulent, but clinging to the simplicity of pastoral life from habit and inclination. The traveller looks round upon thousands of cattle, and a rustic abundance of every tiling, appertaining to a shepherd*s life; and is welcomed with a genuine hospitality, accompanied with French urbanity. It has been observed, that in advancing towards these sequestered re- gions the traveller from New Orleans observes a decrease of luxury and refinement, corresponding to his advance on his journey, evidencing a similitude of inverted history. He travels through all the different stages of refinement, from the luxury of that showy and expensive city, to the mansions of the opulent and rural planters of Atlakapas, iho petits paysans beyond, and the Arcadian habitations of the French planters near the Sabine. Avoyelles prairie has a very narrow front on lied river, is rich and alluvialin point of soil, and of moderate extent, beuig seldom more than #'* LOUISIANA. 257 three or four miles wide. It runs back from Red river a considerable distance, and coiistitutos the parish, the name of wliich it bears. It is in- habited by cotton planters and people who subsist by raising cattle. They are princii)ally French. " -. 'f ^ ■ Catahoola prair;*^, on Catahoola or Little river and the Washita has in many respects a rcicmblancc to that of Avoyelles. This prairie, togeth- er with Sicily islai.il, constitutes the chief part of the parish of Catahoola. There are also, very extensive prairies between Washita and Red river. They spread in a line, which meanders, like the course of the rivers, tiirough the wooded country, until they connect themselves with the im- mense grassy plains on tlie ui)per courses of these rivers. They are generally second or third rate land, for the most part uninhabited, and many of them as yet without a name. Three new parishes have been recently created by the legislature. The parish of Plaquemine is situated norm of lake Borgnc, west of New Or- leans, and is bounded on the southeast by the gulf of Mexico. The greater part of its surface is swampy. It produces all the articles of cul- ture in Louisiana; but sugar is the staple. The parish of Orleans includes Iheeity. Chef Mcnteur, Rigolets, Bayou Bienvenu, Bayou Gcntilly and Bayou St. Johns, are all in this parish, and are famous in the history of the late war. Lake Ponchartrain, lake Borgne,Barartaria bay in the Gulf of Mexico, Caminda bay, lake Des islets, lake Rond, Little lake and Quacha lake are in Hie limits of this parish. Sugar, and after tliat, cotton are the staples. Along the coast there are groves of orange trees, and the fig is extensively raised. In this parish are the greater part of the defences, that are intended to fortify the city of New Orleans against the attack of a foreign foe. The chief fortifications are on those points, by which the British ap[)roached the city during the late war. Extensive fortifications of brick have been creeled at Petits Coquil- Ics, Chief Mentour and Bayou Bicnvcuu, the two former guarding the passes of the Rigolets, between lake Borgnc and lake Ponchartrain, and the latter the approach from lake Borgnc towards New Orleans. A great work, to mount 120 cannon is erected at Plaquemine on the Mississippi. These works, fill not far short of the expense of two million dollars. Fort St. Johns, at tlic entrance of the Bayou St. Johns into lake Ponchartrain, is well situated for the defence of the pass: It is an ancient establishment of llie former regime. The guns are of vast calibre; but they ajqiear to be ^^calcd,- and the walls have a ruinous aspect. These points of defence have •been 'selecl(::/J,„wiUi.>great judgment, and have been fortified with so inifclicare, thatrt/^^sJ»j^posed no enemy could ever again approach the city by the sam(( py^i^yM'^'^^ff'^ which it was approached by the British, in the past war. •.['•New Orleans, the key of the Mississippi valley, and the depot of its agriculture and commerce, is #3 * r 1^,1 >. m fi} 258 LOUISIANA. already a city of immense imporlunce, and is every year becoming more so. This city has strong natural defences, in its position and its climate. It is now strongly defended by artificial fortifications. But, after all, ihe best defence of this, and of all other cities, is the vigilant and patriotic «nergy of the masses of free men, who can now by steam boats be brought down to its defence in a few days from the remotest points of the west. It is not to be forgotten, that by the same conveyance, an enemy might ulso be brpught against it. Of tlie other parishes we may remark in general, that as far up the Mis- sissippi, as the parish of Baton Rouge on the east side, and Point Coupee on the west, the cultivation of sugar cane is the chief pursuit. The •same may be said of Plaquemine, Lafourche and Attakapas. The staple article of the western parishes beyond is cotton. — The parishes north of lake Ponchartrain, which formerly made a part of Florida, with the ex- ception of some few tracts, and the alluvions of Pearl river and Bogue Chitto, have a sterile soil. They raise large flocks of cattle, and send great quantities of lumber to New Orleans, together with pitch, tar, tur- pentine, and charcoal. They burn great quantities of lime from the beds of shells, which cover whole tracts neir the lakes ; and they send sand from the beaches of the lakes, for covering the pavements of New Orleans. They hafe, also, for some years past, manufactured bricks to a great amount, and transported them across the lake. They have a great number of schooners, that ply on the lakes in this and other employments. The people, engaged in this extensive business, find the heavy tolls demanded on the canal a great impediment irt the way of the profit of this trade. The country, generally, is covered with open pine woods, and has small tracts of second rate land interspersed among them. It is valuable, from its inexhaustible supplies of timber, and wood for the New Or- leans market. Chief Towns. New Orleans, the commercial capital of the state, and the emporium of western commerce, is situated on the east shore of the Mississippi in a bend so deep and sinuous, that the sun rises to the inhabitants of the city from the opposite shore, in north latitude 29° 57'; and in 90° 8' west longitude from Greenwich; and in 13° 9' from Wash- ington, 105 miles by the meanders of the river from the Balize, and 90 miles in a direct line; not far from 1,000 miles below the mouth of the Ohio; and a little more than 1,200 below the mouth of the Missouri. It is nearly intermediate between Boston and Mexico, although the pas- sage from New Orleans to Vera Cruz is much shorter by sea, than to Boston. It consists of the old city, propeily so called, which is built in the form of a parallelogram, of which the longer sides are 1,320 yards in length, and the shorter, or the depth of the city towards the swamp, 700 LOUISIANA. 259 yards. Above llie city are llie Fiibnibs St. Mary, and Annunciation. Below the city are the suburbs Marigny, Daunois, and Declouif. These are called Fauxbourprs. Between Ibc city ai;d the Bayou St. John are the villages St. Claude and St. Jolinsburg. Whoever will look at its position on the map, will see at once its unrivalled advantages of position, for a commercial capital. Accessible (juickly, and at all times by large ships from the sea, its longdistance above it, and the sinuosities of the river give it uncommon capabilities of defence from foreign annoyance. It has probably twice as much extent of boat navigation above it, as any other city on the globe. Taking the length of all the tributaries of the Mississippi, that are navigable, and actually navigated by steam boats, it is not extravagant to say, that the sum would exceed 20,000 miles; and thesf waters penetrate the most fertile soils, and i)ass through the pleas- antest climates. Its advantages of communication with the country, immediately adjacent to it, have been overlooked, in comparison with those of its relation to the upper country. But even in these respects it is unrivalled. By the basin of the canal, and the Bayou St. John it commu- nicates with lake Poiicharlrain, and the connected lakes; with the oppo- site Florida shore, with Mobile, Pensacola, and the whole gulf shore, east and west. Not a few vessels, clear from the basin for the Atlantic and Mexican ports. The basin is scarcely distant a quarter of a mile from the ship landing on the Mississippi. A person on the basin wharf can see the masts of the vessels, lying on the shore of the levee, and yet a vessel sailing from the Basin, would have to sail through the lakes along the gulf shore, and up the Mississippi, some hundreds of miles, to arrive at so little distance from her former position. Even the commerce and ship- ping of the basin would be sufficient for the support of a considerable city. There is an incorporation, to connect the lake with the Mississippi by a canal, directly from the one to the other. A most necessary and impor- tant canal is, also contemplated, for connecting Attakapas with the city. Nature has almost completed the line of communication. At present the Bayous Plaquemine and Lafourche furnish that communication. Although steam boats run between Opelousas and Attakapas by these routes and the Teche, yet the mouths of these Bayous are liable to be choaked with timber, and the navigation is generally attended with some difficulty, and is moreover circuitous. There are so many communica- tions by water between New Orleans and the lower parts of Louisiana, accessible by the smaller boats, that all of them are only known to people, who have been in habits for a bng time, of exploring them, for the sake of finding new and shorter routes to their destination. Viewed from the harbor on a sunny day, no city oflers a more striking panoramic view. It envelopes the beholder something in the form of a ^^. 5J«0 LOniSIANA. crescent. An area of many acres covered with all the yrotegqne variety of flat boats, keel boats, and water craftH of every description, that Imvo floated from all points of the valley above, lines the upper part of tlio shore. Steam boats rounding to, or sweej)in«,' away cast their long hori- zontal streams of smoke behind them, Sh)ops, schooners, brigs, and ships occupy the wharves, arranged below each other, in the order of their size, showing a forest of niasts. The foreign aspect of the stuccoed houses in the city proper, tlie massive buildings of the Fauxbourg St. Mary, the bustle and movement on every side, all seen at one view in the bright coloring of the brilliant sun and sky of the climate, present a splendid spectacle. The wooden buildings, of wliich the cily was formerly in a great mea- sure composed, have given place to l)uildings of brick. The city, prop- erly so called, and the Fimxbonrg St. Mary arc compactly, and substan- tially built. In the city, tJK' French and Spnnish styles of building pre- dominate. The houses are stuccoed externally, and this stucco, of a white or yellow color, strikes the eye more pleasantly, than the dull and sombre red of brick. There can be no question, but the American mode of building is more connnodious, solid, and durable; but the latter mode lias the preference, in its general eflect upon the eye. To an American viewing them for the fust time, there is something fantastic and unique in the appearance of the city streets, which wears a resem- blance to European French and Spanisli towns, rather than American. The Fauxbourg St. Mary, and many other parts of the city are built after the American fashion, and have notliing in their appearance, different from an Atlantic town. The city contains six complete squares; each square having a front of 319 feet in length. Each square is divided into 12 lots. Few of the streets, except Canal street, are more than 40 feet wide. The names of the principal streets are Levee, Chart res. Royal, Burgundy, Dauphino, Toulouse, &LC. The public buildings are the Town House, at the north- west corner of Chartres and St. Peter's streets; the Hospital, standing in the suburb St. Mary, opposite the square, between Dauphine and Bur- gundy streets; the Catliedral church of St. Louis, in front of Orleans street, upon Chartres street; the Convent of Ursuline nuns, upon Ursuline street, between Levee and CJiartres streets; the Barracks, upon Garrison and Levee streets; tiie Custom House, in front of the square, between Canal and Levee streets; the Market House, upon the Levee, in front of the square, between St. Anne and Du Maine streets; Orleans Bank, upon Conti, between Chartres and Koyul streets; Louisiana Bank, upon Royal, between Conti and St. Louis streets; Planter's Bank, south-west corner of Conti and Royal streets; (ioyernmcnt House, north-west LOUISIANA. 201 comer of Lcvco nnd Toulnuso strcots; District Court of the United States, between Du Muinc and Pliilli{)pe streets; and the Water Works on Levee street, in front of tlie s(|inr(', l)Ct\veon Uisidinc and St. Philip streets. A very l:irffe and nplcndid building is fitted up for the State Bank. The French Theatre is in the oily and the Aruerican in the Fauxbourg'St. Mary. The rrcshytorian church is also in this Fauxbourg. The Cathedral stands at the heiid of a spncious square, 400 feet {from the river. The buildinif is of brick, extending 00 foot on the street, and 120 back of it. The roof is covered, as are most of the French and Spanish houses, with hollow tile, and is supported by ten plastered brick columns. It has four towers, of which one contains two bells. It has an organ, and is finished within with great massiveness and simplicity. It is an imposing fabric, and the interior seems calculated to excite religious feeling. Under its stone pavements are deposited the illustrious dead. In niches and recesses arc the figures of the saints, in their ap- propriate dress, and with those pale and unearthly countenances, which are so much in kec[)ing with tlie common ideas entertained of them. — The walls are so thick, that though in the very .centre of business, you hear only a confused wliisper within, and are almost as still as in the centre of a forest. You go but a few paces from tJie crowds that are pressing along Levee street, and from the rattle of carriages thai are stationed near this place, and you find yourself in a kind of vaulted apartment, and in perfect stillness. The tapers are burning, and some few are always kneeling witliin in silent prayer. Images of death, of the invisible world, and of eternity, surround you. The dead sleep under your feet. You are in the midst of life^ and yet there reigns here a per- petual tranquility. A new Catliolic church has been recently erected. The Presbyterian church is of brick, and is a very largo and handsome building. The Episcopal church is small, but light and neat in its struc- ture. The Mariner's church is a respectable building, not yet completed. The prison and the French theatre are very large, and externally disagree- able buildings, though the coup (Vcril of the view, in the interior of the French theatre is very brilliant. The American theatre, in the Fauxbourg St. Mary, is a neat and commodious building. The Charity Hospital, though not a very beautiful building, has a moral beauty of the highest order. It is, probably, one of the most etlicient and useful charities in the country. New Orleans is exposed to greater varieties o^ human misery, vice, disease, and want, than any other American town. Here misery and disease find a home, clean apartments, faithful nursing, and excellent medicid attendance. Under this roof more miserable objects liave been sheltered, more have been dismissed cured, and more have been <3arried to their long home, than from any other ligspital among us. % Jm. *: 2C2 LOriSIAN.V. Tlic CoWopc in a rcspeclablo builtlintj, and has liatl ample endowments*: but lias done littlo us yet for tlio literature of tlio country. There is a convent of Ursulinc niitip, wlio receive d;iy scholars and boarders for the various brnnches of rudimontnl education. Tlic Female Orphan Asylum is a most interistinfj charity, dalin<,' its efllcicnt ojwrations from the benevolent dontitioiis of tlie late Mr. Poydras. It has commonly 70 or 80 destittitc feiimlo children, under sober and discreet instructresses, alj^ plainly and neatly clad, and constantly occupied, either in acquiring the rudiments of education, or of nccdlo work. They are dressed in plain uniforms, and worship part of the Sabbath day in the Catholic, and part in the Protestant church. An institjition of a similar character for boys, and endowed also by the benevolent Poydras, is now in operation. There are a number of other charitable institutions in this city of respectable character; and when the epidemic, yellow fever, visits it, the manner in which the inliabitants bestow charity, nursing, shelter, and medical aid lo the sick is worthy of all praise. A Library, for the use of the poorer rcadini,' young men of the city, has been instituted, and in the extent of herefiicient and useful ch'arilies. New Orlcafis is not far behind her Atlantic sisters. There are fewer churches in the city, than in any other town of the same size in the United States. There are but three Catholic places of worship, one Presbyterian, one Episcopalian, a Mariners church, a Baptist and a Methodist place ofworship. Very little^observance of the Sabbath, as northern ])cople estimate it, is seen in this city. It is well known, that the forms of the Catholic worship do not forbid amuse- ments on the Sabbath. No city in the United States contains such a variety of inhabitants from every state in the Union, and from every nation in Europe; and there are not a few from the Spanish country, and the islands. There is an aston- ishing contrast of manners, language and complexion. One half the population is black or colored. The French population probably as yet predominates over the American. Among the Americans, the inhabitants of the city of New York seem to have tiie greater number, and there is more intercourse between New Orleans and New York, than any otlier American city. The intercourse with Havana and Vera Cruz is great, and constantly increasing. The French display in this city, as elsewhere, their characteristic urbanity and politeness, and are tlie same gay, amiable, dancing, spectacle- loving people, that they are found to be in every other place. There is, no doubt, niucli gambling and dissipation practised, and different licensed gambling houses pny a large tax for their licenses. Much has been said abroad touching the profligacy of manners and morals here. Amidst such a multitude, composed in a great measure of the low people of all ■» vS^-- liOIJlSIXNA. S63 nations, tliere must bo nmch dfhuiulicry ;iih1 low vice. But all tlio dis- gusting forms of vice, tl(.'l);nidi(!ry!ui(l (Iniiikoniioissurcnssorled together in their own place. E;ich man luis an elective uttraclion to men of his «wn standing nnd order. ,»'4# '*' Much has been said abroad, in rognrd fo the nnlionlthincss of this city, and the danger of a residence bore for an nnaccliinalcd person, has been exaggerated. This circumstance, more than all oliieis, has retardrd the increase of this city. Unhappily, when llio doi,' star is in the sky, there is but too much probability, that the epidemic will sweep the place with the besom of destruction. Hundreds of the unacclimatod poor from the north, and more than all from Ireland, fall victims to it. The s\)pply of the excellent water of the Mississippi, by the water works now in operation, is very inadequate. It is contemplated to extend the 'means of supply. No city in llic Union can bo furnished more cheaply and easily. Were the supply equal to washing the streets in every direc- tion, it would tend more to the preservation of the public health, in all 'probability, than any other conservative means that could be employed; and it is matter of surprise, that such a simj)le and obvious measure has not already been adopted. It is believed, that every street, which has the •least inclination of descent, might be kept clean by the healthy water of the Mississippi at a less expense, than is re(]uisite for watering Cincinnati. Very great improvements have been recently made, and are r^nstantly making, in paving the city, in removing the wooden sewers, and replacing them by those of stone. Tlie low places, where the water used to stagnate, are drained, or filled up. Tracts of swamp about the town are draining, •or filling up; and this work, constantly pursued, will, probably, contribute more to tlie salubrity of the city, than all the other efforts to this end united. The commerce of this city is immense, and constantly increasing. — There have been counted in the harbor, 1,.'')00 flat boats at a time. Steam boats are coming and departing every hour; and it is not uncommon to see 50 lying in the harbor at a time. A forest of masts is constantly seen along the levee, except in the sultiy montiis. Tliere arc often 5 or (),000 boatmen from the upper country here; and it is not uncommon to see 40 vessels advertised for Liverpool and Havre. No place in the United States has so much activity and bustle of conunerce, crowded into 80 small a space in the months of February and March. During the season of bringing in the cotton crop, whole streets are barricaded with cotton bales. The amount of domestic exports from this city exceeds twelve millions of dollars a year, being greater than that of any other city of the Union, except New York, and nearly equalling that. The greatest items that make this amount, are sugar and cotton. ■^f w ^ ■■ L 304 LOL'I«!I\N.\. ^\ It is l)clit' vool" rocliirnin;,' llie ininicnso swunipa, in the midst of which slio is placed, hy naviyahlo canals. Notwithsfandin^r Ihc diya(lvantiif,'0 of Ijcinj,' reported unhealthy, few towns in the United States increase witii «(reatcr rapidity. Within tho last three years, a tlionsandlioiiscs have been added to its buildings, prin- cipally fronting along the river in the J'\ui.\I)ourg St. Mary, most of them massive and commodious. The recently finished rail road from Rampart street to LakePoncharlrain is not only in itseifa n(jble and useful workj but has essentially tended to reclaim from the swamp a considerable tract in the rear of the city. A lluiic has recently been created, with a capital of 4,000,000 dollars, which, as the condition of the charter, is to make a canal from a point on the river above flic city to the lake. There are five Banks in the city, with a capital of more than ten millions of dollars; and it is advancing in all jjoints of opulence, ornament, utility, and comfort in a progress of honorable competition with the other principal American cities. The Rail Road is four and a half miles long, perfectly straight, and its ascent and descent only 10 inches. The avenue on which the roadruns, is 150 feet wide. Tlie eye at either extremity traverses its whole length. Standing on the shore of the ]\lississii)pi, the vessels sailing through tho Jake are seen at the end of tho avenue of trees, through which the road is cut. An artificial harbor and breakwater arc constructing on the lake at the extremity of the road. ' The facilities of getting a passage from this city cither to Europe, Mexico, the Atlantic cities, or tlio interior, are very great. You need seldom remain many days williout an ojjportunity to embark in any direction. Steam boats arc constantly advertising for Louisville, and all the different points on the waters of the Mississippi and Ohio; and a passage in the beautiful steam boats, that now ply on these waters, is both rapid, cheap, and delightful. The market ordinarily is cheap and abundant ; and by seizing the oppor- tunities, the articles of life may be had as cheap as in any other town in the United States. Corn, potatoes, pork, and Hour are sometimes so low, as scarcely to pay the cost of transport from the upper country. The productions of all climes find tlicir way hither; and for fruits and vegetables, few places can exceed it. On a pleasant March morning, perhaps halftlie city is seen in the market. The crowd covers half a mile in extent. The negroes, mulatloes, I'rencii, Sptinish, and Germans are all crying their several articles in their several tongues. In the midst of a confusion of languages, like that of Babel, '«n picalion, un picalion^ '•V.' ■«.'\ tOtfflMNA. snf) IS 1li« ni'^st (listln^uislmblc tuno. Tlio census of ISHO gives this city lH,\-^^i inli'bitiiiits; but tlicro are times in the yc.ir, wiion it contaijis perhaps (M),0(K). This city necessarily exercises ii very prcnt moral influence over all the western country. There is n(» distinpfuislied nicrchnnt, planter, (fr firmer, in the Mississippi valley, but what has made at least one trip to this place. Here they witness ncting at the French ami American the:itr»>B. Here they go to inspect, if not to take part in the pursuits of thc^roulette, and temple of fortune.' Hero they couk; from the remote and isol ited points of the west to see tin; ^city lioim,'' and learn the ways of men in great towns; and they necessarily carry back an impression, from what, they have seen and heard. It is of inconceivable im()ortunce to the western country, that New Orleans should be eidightened, moral, and rehyious. It has a numerous and respectable corjw of professional men, and issues a considerable ninnborof well edited pipers. The police of the city is at once mild and enei irntic. Notwithstanding the multifarious character of the i»eo|»le, collected from every country and climate, notwithstandinif the rnnltiludeof botitmen and sailors, not- withstanding the mass of people, that rushes along itsslreets, is of the most incongruous materials, there are fower broiln .'inH qu.irrels here, thuu in almost any other city. The municipal and criminal courts are prompt in administering justice; and larcenies and broils are eHecuially punished without any just grounds of complaint about the 'law's delay.' On the whole the morals of those people, who profess to have any degree of self-respect, are not behind those of the other cities of the Uni«)n. New Orleans is 1203 miles from Washington, 832 from St. Louis, 1634 from Boston, and 1428 from New York. Donaldsonville, on the west side of the Mississippi, at the efflux of Lafourche, 90 miles above New Orleans, has a number of houses, and has been selected by the Legislature, as the place (or the future political cap- ital of the state. Baton Rouge is on the east side of the Mississippi, 140 miles above New Orleans. It is pleasantly situated on the last bluft" that is seen on descending the river. The site is 30 or 40 feet above the highest overflow of the river. This bluff rises from the river by a gentle and gradual swell. The United States barracks here are built in a fine style, and are supposed to be among the handsomest and most commodious of that kind of works. From the esplanade the prospect is delightful, including a great extent of the coast, with its handsomest houses uid rich cultivation below, and commanding an extensive view over the'back country at the east. The villige is tolerably compact, and has a number of neat houses. The town itself, especially in the months when the greatest verdure prevails, when seen from a steam boat in the river, rising 31. 906 liOirtfifANA. with micli n fine fmcll from tlio linnks, nnd xviili its sin^nlurly blinpri) French nnd Spminh houses, and itn Rrrrii nqunrcy, lookn like a finely fainlcd liindsaipc. Its population is rntoil at ly'iOO. St. Fr .ncisvillo is a considerable villajje, Hitiiatcdon the enstcm shore of the river, and on a blurt* a mile from its iKinks; i^ KM) miles above New Orleins. It is a thriving villnpc of nearly the 8 une size with Btlon K« nge. A weekly p ipor is printed here, and B lyou Sirah, by which tlif town communicates with the MisHistiippi, is a noted stopping pi eo for descending boats, and grout quantities of cotton nre shipped from it At a considerable distnncc west of this town is J ckson, in a he dtliy position in the Pino Woods, which is the seat of an incipient college. On the opposite shore is Point Coupee, a wealthy French settlement Here the levee commences, and extends thence to New Orleans. Here lived and died Mr. Poydras, celebrated for his wealth and benevolence. He endowed, as we have remarked, asylums in New Orleans, and left many other charitable donations; and among others, the proceeds of :i very considerable property to be distributed in naurringe portions to a mimberof poor girls in the parish of Point Couiiec, and in the adjoining parishes. Galveztown is situated on Rayon Manshac, or Ibberville, not far from where it enters lake Ponclmrirain. At the mouth of the Tangip;io is the village of Springfield. Madisonville is a small village on the Chifiunctc, two miles from the north shore of lake Ponchnrtrain. It is a place ol' considerable summer resort from New Orleans, during the sickly months. There are a number of handsome houses of accommodation for such per- sons. A navy yard was attempted by the government on this river, a few miles above this village. Covington is a considerable village, seven miles above, on the Bogue Falaya, a branch of the Chiflimcte. It is the scat of justice for the parish of St. Tammany, and is the head of sch< oner navigation on tl»c river. Considerable cotton is shipped from this place. General Jackson's Ro:id, reaching from lake Ponchartrain to Nashvillo, passes through this place. Like Madisonville, it is a place of resort for the citizens of New Orleans during the sickly season. Opelousas, tlu; scat of justice for the parish of that name, is a rising village in the midst of a respectable and compact settlement, 270 miles northwest from New Orleans. A weekly gazette is issued from this place. St. M.irtinsvillo. on the west side of the Teche, is surrounded by a settlement of opulent planters. New Iberia is also on the west side of tlie Teche, and being at the head of schooner navigation, in a ricii and flourishing country, must eventually become a place of importance. Alex ndri I, on Red River, 70 mi Ins from the Mississippi, and l;')!* from the mouth of the river by its meanders, is situated on the south lunik LU»ISIANA« 207 of i}i« river, n Imlf amilo below the fill, iit thr mouth of Biyou R"pi(le. If jH centriil to the rich cotton plnntinf; country of B'lyntis Rxpulo, Rol)crt, and PAWuf. It is the w^at of justice for the pirish, hati a Bmk, isniM'H I weekly i.apcr. \v\b a number of stores, and rcspcct-ible attoriiics aixl pliyBicians T!i< site of the town isa beaulifid phiin,and tiievill *ge in lly run on the margins of the rivers and b;iyous, are for the most part good. When the roads diverge to iny distance from the biyous and rivers, they soon touch the swampy soil, and in wet weather are intolerably deep, muddy, and heavy. Constitution and Laws. The Constitution varies little from that of the other western states. The state senators ire elected for four years, one-fourth vacating their seats annually. They must possess nn est ;te of 1,000 doll'irs in the parish, for which they are chosen. The represen- tatives have a bienniiil term, and must possess 500 dollars worth of prop- erty in the parish to be eligible. The governor is chosen for four years j and is ineligible for the succeeding term. His duties are the same as in the other states, and his salary 7,000 dollars n year. The judiciary powers are vested in a supreme and circuit court, together with a municipal court called the parish court. The salaries are ample. The elective franchise belongs to every free white man . twenty (tne years nnd upwards, who has had a residence of six months in the parish, and who has paid taxes. The code of laws adopted by this state is not what is called the 'common law,' which is the rule of judicial proceedmgs in all the other states, but the civil law, adopted with some modifications from the judicial canons of France and Spain. So much of the common law is interwoven with it :js h:!S been adopted by express statute, and the criminal code is for the most part regulated by it. All the laws of the civil code purport to be written, and they are principally selected from thnt stupendous ni .ss of legal njaxims and edicts, called the Justinian code. Parishes in this state nearly correspond to counties in the other states; and the parish judge under the civil code, and according to the judicial arrangements of this state, is one of the most responsible and important judicial function- aries. It would be rather amusing than useful to go into much detail, respect- ing the modes of administering justice under the French and Spanish regime. The commandant, or governor-general, was at the he 'd of the judiciary and military deportments. His code was the Roman law, or that of the Indies; and he represented the king. The department of finance was administered by an ollicer, called the intendant general. The oflicc of procureur general wds one of high conseqtience; and hnd an analogy to that of our prosecuting attornies. But of all the tribunals of tho Spanish in their colonies, the most imporf;int .'nd populnr was ihc cahildo. Teh cahildos awaidctl tlie decisions in coraraon civil suits, and were a find LOUISIANA. kind of general conservators of the peace. Subordinate ministers of justice to iliem were alcaide.f, rvgklors, syndic.^, nd registers. Subordin le to the dop:irtment of finance were tlie contadnrs, treasurer^ intcvientor^ auditor «nd asscftfior. Most of theso offices were venal, or acquired by purchase. The processes were simple, but rigorous, and summary; and many of tlioir maxims of law Were founded in the highest wisdom and equity. From whatever cause it happened, the yoke of their government alw )y3 sat ciisy on the neck of the Anglo-Americans, who lived under it, and still spcit.k «f Spanish times as the golden age. Crimes were rare . Thefuref^.thersof the present race of Creoles were a mild ;ind peaceablq laco, as are their descendents at the present day. The ancient inhabitants attached more importance to a criminal prosecution, and felt more keenly the sliame of conviction, than the inhabitants of the present d :y. — . Summary justice, the terror of the Mexican mines, or the dungeons of Havanna had tJieir share in producing this spirit of submissive quietness and subordination. The penal laws were not more sanguinary, than those ©f most of the statas of our Union. Only four crimes were declared capital. Persons sentenced to death, for the commission of those crimes, often remained long in the prisons of Cuba, either through the lenity or caution of the officers of justice. The code, under which Governor O'Reilly administered justice, is a most singular specimen cf jurispru- dence. Among the most frequent crimes against which it provides, «re crimes of lust commited by priests, or professed religious, and the heaviest punishments tliose annexed to those crimes. Tliere are enum- erated some amusing cases, in which pecuniary mulcts are substituted for corporeal punishment, in instances of ■ jnviction for these crimes. Character. If any distinct national character can be predicated of the people of this state, it will apply with the same shades of difference to all (he people of the south-western states. We consider the Creoles generally a mild and amiable people, with less energy and less irascibility, than the immigrants from the other states. The descendants of tlie French have all tlie peculiar and distinctive marks of that people in all countries. They possess mild vivacity, and show rather the ingenuity of successful imita*. tion, than the boldness and hardihood of inventive minds. The parents of tlie present race were insulated from the rest of the world; were plunged in the woods; had no object of ambition ; no political career before them; and they were content to hunt^make voyages in their canoes; uad smoke and traffic with the savages. Many of them knew neitlier fo rend, nor to write. It is otherwise with their descendants. They are ^^'enerally born to fortunes; have a career before them, and are jarly laugiit to perc( ivo tiie neces'";y of being educated; and the children of Ilc Prcnch arc now ae genenlly iusiructed. as tliose of tiic AmcricaiAS LOUISIANA. 271 They are fond of shows, the theatre, bills and assemblies; arc extremely m)lite; and penerally more sober nnd mor-il, than the Americans. The women are remarkable for becoming excellent wives and mothers; «ind are extremely domestic and economical in their hnbits. Many of llie more wealthy planters cross the sea to spend the snmmer, and to edu- cate their children in France. The American planters are genet, lly high minded, iracsible, social and generous; much addicted to tlie sport? of the turf and the gambling tible. Tliey are fond of hunting and keep- ing large packs of dogt. Hiivmg overseers for the most part over their plantations, they have mucli leisure time on their hands, and arc too i\\yt. to become dissipated. There is a rising spirit of literature, and a di;'po- sition to read among them, which will innocently, if not usofnlly, and hap- pily employ many of the hours, that used to be spent around tlie gamblii)?'' table. The people generally are averse to care, deep thinkmg, on'i profound impressions; and are volatile, gay, benevolent, easily exciie'l to joy or sorrow; and the common maxim in a sickly climate, whero lit> is precrrious, is ' a short life and a merry one.'' Tliere is a prevalent and fatal propensity to decide quarrels and even trivial disputes 1)y duiils; and many wanton and fatal duels occur, as one of the deepest stains upou the moral character of this people. In many respects no people ar<^ more amiable. They carry the duties of liospitality to groat lengths, and extend the kindness of consanguinity almost as far, as the Scotcli are said to do. The luxury of the table is carried to great extent They are ample in their supply of wines; though claret is gener;.ll} ^runk. In drinking, the guests universally raise their glasses, and touch them together instead of a health. No state in the Union has made more ample and munificent appropria- tions, according to its numbers, for the advancement of common school education. For this purpose eight hundred dollars are annually appro- priated in every parish in the state. But the act of appropriation is darkly worded. The application of appropriations is indistinctly defined ; and it is much to be feared, that the generous purpose of the laws has not yet produced the fruits that were intended to grow from it. There are in the state many professional characters of high respectability. So- cial libraries are introduced into many of the villages. The improving spirit of the age is doing much for them. The rapid communication by- steam boats brings the luxuries, comforts and improvements of society immediately to their doors, and Jong with them more refinement, a higlier order of thought, and better tone of feeling. The influence of this course of things upon 'he moral hnbits of the pi, nters is v.ry perceptible, in introducing more liberal pleasure?, niore innocent modes of spending 1 I "F< t V :4 Tii I'L m t"''. fi "3fe[- 2^2 "%(.,_. £DtTISI\N\. their time, and especially, and above all, more enlightened humanity and policy, in their wys of managing their sl.ives. Religion. The cathohc is the predominant religion of Louisiana. There are catholic churches in all the considerable villages. But there is, pro- bably, less protestant worship, in proportion to the numbers, than in any other state in the Union. We know of but one presbyteritin church in the state; and that is in New Orleans. The b;iptists have sone societies; and the methodists have labored here with the s.me zeal, us in other places They have a number of societies, and >some very respectablo members in the state. .1;t ^- m • _,^^ 111 # ARKANSAS TERRITORY. Greatest lengtli, 500 miles. Medial length, 300. Breadth 240. It •contains more th;ui 130,000 s(]uare miles. Between 33° and 36° 30' N. latitude; and 13° and 23° W. longitude from Washington. Bounded North by Missouri and the territory beyond; East by the Mississippi, which separates it from Tennessee and Mississippi. — South by Louisiana and the Mexican states. West by those states. It was erected into a territorial government in 1810, and contains 25,667 whites, and 4676 blacks, total 30,383. The limits of this great region are strongly dpfir.cd by physical and geographical lines. These lines are for the most part large rivers, and the ocean of prairies beyond. Counties. Arkansas, Chicot, Clark, Conway, drawford, Crittenden, Hempstead, Independence, Izard, La Fayette, Lawrence, Miller, Monroe, Phillips, Pope, Pulaski, St. Francis, Sevier, Union, Warm Spring, Washiimton. CIVIL DIVISIONS. Chief Towns. Arkansas Post, Villemont, Clark C. H. Ilarrisonburgh, Crawford C H. Greenock, Hempstead C. II Batesville, Izard C. II. La Fayette C. H. Jackson, Miller C. H. Jacob's Staff, Helena, Scotia, Little Rock, or Acropolis, Franklin, riraclifta, Corea Fabre, Warm Spring, 35 Distance from Acropolis, 136 184 87 40 136 168 130 102 172 182 152 228 84 124 81 168 60 274 ARKANSAS Ti;UlUTOUV. Acropolis is 10(5R miles from Washington, ryj2 from New Orlfans, and 397 from St. Louis. Face of the country. In this view Arkansas is an epitome of the world. For some distance up the waters of Arlvunsas and ^VJlito Rivers, the country is an extensive heavily timbered and deeply inundated swamp, Near the St. Franeis hills and at Point Chico, the eastern front along the Mississippi is above the overflow. The remainder of the eastern line is a continued and monotonous flooded forest. It has large and level prairie plains. It possesses a great extent of rocky and sterile ridges, and no inconsiderable surface covered with mountains. Perhaps no section of our country is more diversified, in regard to its surface. Its northern line is intersected by a range of hills, wliich are commonly denominated ^The Black Mountains,'' a line of elevations running from Black River to the western extremity of the territory, and separating between the waters of White River and Arkansas. There are ranges of hills, that have the name of mountains, which separate the waters of Arkansas from those of Washita. Near the Warm Springs these ridges spring up into elevated peaks, which in the eye of a visitor at the Springs, from the level country of Louisiana, have the aspect of lofty mountains. At the south-western extremity of the territory, there are three parallel ranges of hills, that divide the waters of Red River from those of Washita. — Therp are, also, many detached hills and flint kno])S. On some of these is found the whortleberry ^vaccinwni' of the north in great perfection and abundance. These hills exhibit red cedars and savincs, such as grow on hills of a similar appearance on the Atlantic shore. In the central parts of the territory, and intermediate between Arkansas and Washita rivers, on the waters of the latter, is that singular detached elevation, called 'Mount Prairie.' On the waters of White River and St. Francis, the country generally is rolling. But, take the extent of the territory to- gether, it is either very level or very hilly. In some places the hills rise at once from level prairies and plains. A very considerable portion of the country is broken land, and unfit for cultivation. A great part of the 'barrens' of this state are what tlieir name imports. There are four considerable detached bodies of good upland. But it may be assumed as a general fact, that the high prairies and timbered lands are sterile. That part of the course of the Washita, which runs in this territory, has narrow, though in some places rich bottoms. Here are cane brakes, birch, maple, holly, and muscadine grape vines. The lender soil on the banks is often torn away by the sweeping and rapid course of the full river. Rugged hills, covered with stinted pines and cedars come in close to the river; and the valley is fo deep, and its boundaries so abrupt, that the sun is seen but a few hours in the da v. 11.1 AllKANSAS TrnniTOUY. 275 ral parts a rivers, called ncisj the tory to- lills rise ortion of part of ire four umed as That cry, has brakes, I on tlie the full in close pt, that There is a large tract of country, on the upper waters of White River, which has sometimes heen denominated New Kentucky, eitlier from ita U"!in,L' ferlile, rolliuLT, and abundant in lime stone springs; or from its being more congenial to the staple products of Kentucky, than the coun- try lower down. It is sheltered on thcnorlli by mountains, Tlie fertile tracts are vallies end)osomed l3etwe('n liigh liills; and the productions of the north and the south fortlie most p;nt sncc(.>cd in this soil. It has one great inconvenience. Tiie stre:.nis, tliat run along its precipitous hills, receive the waters of tlio powerfid sliowers that occasionally fall, and pour these waters from an liundred slielving declivities into the streams. — They have been known to rise 40 feet in perpendicular height, in a few hours. The standing corn and cotton is submerged ; and the hope of the year destroyed. JUrm'. lied Jliver has the greater part of its whole length of course in this territory. There is no other river, of cipial length and importance in our country, about whose sources and upjier waters so little is known with exactness and certainty, as this. It rises at the bases of a line of spurs of the Rocky Mountains, called the Caous mountains near Santa Fe. Jilue River and Fausse Ouachitia rise near the sources of the main river, and join it 3 or 400 miles from its head spring. There are a number of considerable nameless tributary streams below these principal branches. Some of them have courses of between 1 and 200 miles. The Pawnees 'ire the principal inliabitants on this undescribed part of the river. Below llieir towns and the limits of Louisiana come in Kimichie, near which is situated the United States' garrison ; Vasseux, and Little River of the north; and on the odier side, Bois d'Arc and Little River of the south. The south bank of this river for a long distance is the boundary between the United States and the province of Texas. Every traveller has re- marked, that this river at the Kimichie, nearly a thousand miles from its mouth, is a broader, and apparently a larger stream than at the point, where it mingles 'ts waters with the Washita. The reason is, that in the hilly region of the prairies it rolls along in one channel a broad river, not pouring its su'pius waters into bayous or lakes. After it enters Louisiana, its whole course, as we have already remarked, is chequered on either hand with numberless bayous and lakes. We have already mentioned, that its waters are red, turbid, and unpotable, from the impregnation of salt mixed with it. Above the raft, it is a fme stream for steam boat naviga- tion. The country on the American side is diversified with prairies, woodlands, hills and vallies, with a red colored soil. This region is healthy and pleasant. It is aflirmed, that it produces good wheat, and even productive apple orchards. From the abundance of peccan and S.J.J4 : 27« AllKANSAS TF.nniTORY. Other nut bearing trees, it is a fine country for swine, and opens invitintr prospects to immigrants. Washita rises in moimtainoiis prairies, iiiterniodinte betwrrn Arkansas and Red Ri er, not fir from JU". TIk; Fourclic Caddo, Little Missouri, and Saline riso at no great distiince from tlio sources of the principal Btream. It runs through a country, generally sterile and mountainous. Pine, and that species of oak known in those regions by the name of pin oak, and generally denoting an inferior soil, are the most common kinds of timber. In the richer and alluvial tracts arc found the trees, common to that latitude. That beauti fid kind, called Bo is (!■ Arc, is here found in greater abundance, than any where else in our country. In high stages of the water, it is navigable by steam boats, within a few miles of the Hot Springs, that is to say, a distance from its mouth of nearly G(K) miles. An hundred salines, some of which are strongly impregnated with salt, are found near the river. Its bottoms are very fei tile, after it enters Louisiana. When it unites itself with Red River, it strikes the eye, as the larger one of the two. It has a course of nearly eighf hundred miles. The principal river of tliis territory, whence it derives its name, and tlie next largest western tributary of the IMississippi, after the Missouri, is the Arkansas. The extent of this mighty stream, which is said to meander a long distance in the Rocky Mountains, is commonly given at 2,500 miles. This is probably an extravagant calculation. It is believed that its distance from a point, where it has a volume of waters to entitle it to the name of river, to its entrance into the Mississippi, measuring its curves, is about 2,000 miles. In summer it pours a broad and deep stream from the mountains upon the arid, bare, and sandy plains. The sand and the dry surrounding atmosphere so drink up the water, that in the dry season it may be crossed, many hundred miles below the mountains, without wading as high as the knees. The tributary streams are far from being so well known, as to render them susceptible of an accurate de- scription. The chief of them are the Verdigris, Negracka, Canadian Fork, Grand River, Six Bull, &c. Some of them are remarkable for being impregnated with salt to such a degree, that we have tasted the waters of the main river so salt, as to be unpotable. The whole alluvial earth along the banks is so strongly impregnated with sah, that the cattle sometimes kill themselves by eating it. For a distance of many hundred miles from its mouth, it receives no tributaries of any length of course, owing to the configuration of the country through which it passes, and to the vicinity of Red River and Washita on one side, and the Yellow Stone., Kansas, and Osage on the other. When it has arrived witliin 400 AHKANs v;; 'liinnnonv. i>77 milos of tlip Mis?i.s:^ippi, il bfi^aiislon-r.urnr' ilio rluirartpr of Red River, ill the iiiiinbfrs of its b'lyoiis ami I'llics. The Ix'lt of lii;L'li Itiiul, between tlic river and the cypress swamps, is l)y no iiieaiis so wide, as that, on the other river. The aihnial soil is ol' the sam(^ cohjrand tpialitics, though it is not geiieraHy so ('■rlile. It Ins a l)ro:idor channel, and generally a narrower valley. ^V" l-eHe\c liiat it (!oes not cnrry ho much water; and tlicr;ipi(Hty of its ordinary current is h'ss. A\']ien it i:-! fidl, its waters Jiaveaslill deeper color. Its enrvi-s. that is to say, its poliits- and hfnd.'i are broader and deeper. It surpasses the .Mississippi, or any river of the west, in the perCeel regnlarity of these, and in the uniformity find beauty of the young cfjtton wood groves thnt .spring up on the convex sand bars. In other respects, it has a siuj)! ising n^senihlance to Red River. Arkansas has decidedly tlic advantage in the extent of its navigation, fn the spring lloods, steam boats can ascend it nearly to the mountains. The first HO or 40 miles of its course is through a heavy, inundated forest, witJk very little land snfliciently above the floods, to admit of cultivation. Forty or fifty mil(,>s of llie course of the river abovo the Post, Bluffs, crowned with pine, come in to the river. Between that distance and the Post, only a narrow belt along the river is above the overflow; and even through this belt the river has torn great numbers of crevasses, through which in high floods its waters escape into the swamps. Directly beyond these belts are gum trees, and other vegetation denoting swampy soil. Beyond these are vast cypress swamps; and in all its course from the bluffs to the mouth, like Red river, it has its net-\Vork checquering of bayous and lakes. The lakes, on the subsidence of the river, are covered. with the vast leaves of the Nymphea Nelumho. The Bayous, when filled with the river waters have the same curves as the river; and while the river is full, the same color; and, until we observe their want of current, might easily be, as they have a thousand times been, mistaken for the river itself. White River has its sources in the ridge called the Black Moun- tains, which divides its waters from those of the Arkansas. Its northern and eastern branches almost interlock with the western ones of the Osage Maramec, and St. Francis. The western branches rise, and run a long distance in Missouri. It enters this territory, at its nordi-western angle, and receives the very considerable tribute of Black River, Thomas' Fork, Red River, Spring Biver Strawberry, and other streams, which run through a pleasant, healthy and fertile country, aliounding in pure springs and brooks, and furnishing great numbers of mill seats. Spring River is re- remarkable for being formed, as its name imports, by the junction of nu- merous large springs, that gush out of the ground near each other, which form a stream, at once wide, and beatable abounding in fish, and, from its never f jezing near these springs in the winter, being visited by ':i. ii.l r I H ill 27« AHKANHAS TI.UniTORV. great niimliors of wnlor fowls. H jiitu (ion (»f llm wrsfrrn brancli, thoniriin river rcci'ivcs Ucd Uiver ilmi ('1 i'-< wati i>!, (■onii);ire(l wiili those of Arkniis.is and the MiMsissippi. Ii is iincoiiiinoidy circiiitous in its course, winding three or four hundied miles to make out; hundred in direct advance to- wards its tUboiicJn'. I( iiwels the inundaliou of the Mississippi a i/reaf distance from it mouth, and makes the remainder of il^i course throui,'h a deep swamp. Ahont seven miles from ils mouth is a lateral hayou, apparently of iho width of the river itself, whieli runaout of liie ri\(;r almost at rifjht angles to its course. This hayou Mows, lhrou;jh a (h'cp and inundated forest six or seven mihs, and unites with the Arkansas, ft is not l)oata!)le in the latter part of the sunnner; hut in mo(h>rate sla^res jf tlie water is uni- versally used hy ho.ils di'scenchnif the iMis^issijipi, and intciuling to ascend the Arkansas, in order to reach that stream. It strikes thai. river thirty miles ahove its luoulh. \\\ this hayou the current sots from one river to the oilier, aceordinif as the flood of one prepon- derates over that of the other. It is three; hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its reputed hoatalile leufrtii is 1,'200 miles; and it.s cotnsc is so simious, that in this len Missouri, and creeps for a great distance througli what is called tlie ' Big Swcniip'^ between Capo Girardeau and the mouth of tlie St. Francis. In this course it passes within ten or twelve miles from New Madrid. From this point to the mouth of the river, a distance of about 300 miles, it used to be boulablc by largo keel boats; and, as its current was much gentler than that of tlie Mis^sissippi, which, in tliis dis- AHIiVNSAM Ti:iM{|TlH»\. v»?n WIIKlllirr o ranches, erritory. Lit a few e Water dcau ii^ called the St, s from ance of 1, as its liis dis- l:iin'«'i >^ |ur,iili!Mly swifl mid dinicdll of ;i«</«c tvood/.'i graprs abound; as do pawpaws and per- .simons. Figs are raised, but with difficulty; and the tree is often killed to the ground by the frost. Peaches are raised in great excellence and '■v^-m ^, ■> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I I^IM |25 u m "^ L£ 12.0 liii u^ m. Fhotografdiic Sciences Corporation 23 WBT MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSM (716)872-4503 '^ 280 ARKANSAS TIJIIKITOKV. J* abuiiduiice. Ap|»Io oicliauls do well al. jMuuiil I'luiiic, aiid in lliuojxjn nndhigli lands aljove Poccau lV)iiit oil Kod Uivci; and no doubt, will thrive in all the lii: ■•^ ^ ■ ^' 'P^- -KMk^fi^ '^^^ 28ii AiiK\Ns.\s 'niuniTonY. Tf'"% !*► the coiifi;,Minifion of iIk; connlry, in is<»l;il«(l niid ticlacliod sitti!ili((ii*y ^'(•nenlly uith yicat «'\fciifs orimsctllcd cniiiilry inlrrvcninir. VhUf Towns. Tlic Post is a sm:ill vill;ire on the Arkansas. 'J'hc inhahitiinis of the Post and its vicinity are chielly the lemains, or the descendai!(s. u\ the first settU'rs; and they arc; for the; most part of l''r«'nch <'xtract. 'I'lir popidatioii cannot exct'cd six hundred in thi; villa,',M^ and the country round it. Acropolis the* seat of <;overmnent is at a ])oint abont ',\[\\] miles by the course oftlio river, and little more tha?i half the distance by hmd ab«»ve the Post. It is on the south hank «>f the river, on a vny liijjh stone blnll',lu(li('rously called Lilth" Hock, front the prod iijious masses of stone about it. The situation is healthy, and pleasajit, and the circniii stance of its bein;; the metropolis, has created a c(>nsi(lera!»le villa;;c. There are a number of incipient \illaires, in the places where thocoiiMly courts are Jiehl, in other parts of lli(> territory; hnt none, tliat merit the naiiu' of town, if we except the^irowini: villaoi; above; tin; mouth of White Kivtv. From this j)laco outlits are made by boats, pn'parin^ t«) as<'entl White River and the Arkansas. It is also noted as a steam Ixtat landini;. Amon<,' the curiosilii's of this country may be; jn»>nlioued the; vasi Mjasses of sea shells, that arc; found dispersed over dilli-rent trails of it. They arc untains ne^ir ili'; Warm Spring::?. These sj)rino;s arc anion i; the most inteMcstinij curieisi- ties of the country. The'y aro in errcat numbers. One of thent emits .x vast epumtity ()f water. The orelijiary temperature is that of boiling water. \Vhen the season is dry, and the \olnme e»f water e-mitted somewhat dinu- nished, the temperature of tiie water increases. The waters are remarka- bly Jiiiipid, and pure; and arc used by the pei»p!o,\vhc resort there for health, ''j^, ARKANSAS mKniT.mv. '2S'A i1 8itna(iofi!'y for nilinurv purpopori. TIk-v liuvi; li(rii;iM;ilv/.f'«l, iintl oxliihit no niiiionl niu|i»Tlii'sl"'V<»nil conimuti ^prin:^' water. 'I'licir rllica* y llicii, fur llu-y ;iro tiiuloiililcillv rHicaciuiis lo many iiuali«ls, lliat n-surt there, results iVciin the shade iif adjacent nmiintains, and from the eool and oxyj,'«'naled nioinitain hroeze; tlie ((tnveniencesnrwarni and tepid l)athinrin;.rs is tho famous (piarry of stone, <'alled oil-.sto/ic. Stones from this e nation, which has inunigrated west of the lVli.ssissippi, lias its cliiof scitlemcnts on the Arkansas. Beyond this territory on White Jiiver arecongrrjjated the Shavvnescand Delawares, that have emigrated from Ohio and JSIissouri. Almvc t!ic Cherok(>es, on the Arkansas, arc theOsages; and still higher the Pawnees. In the vast waste of prairies that interposes between this territory and the ivocky Mountains, roam dillerent tribes of Indians, among which aro often seen the Indians from the Mexican country, who come hero to hunt the bulliilo. History. This territory was erected out of that of Missouri, in IHIJ); and soon passed into what is called the second grade of territorial gov- ^ t ?^ ,,,*^'T *•. 284 ARKANSAS TERnTTOnY. eminent. Many of tlio rccont settlers were turbulent and unmj»nn(»ea])Io .spirits. — There seems to be aslron«T tendency in Aincrican laws and jn. stitutions to create docilily and babifs of peace. The laws are adminis- tered among these people, strangers to llie country and 1»> each other as quietly in most instances, as they are in the more populous and regu- lated regions. The inhabitants about the Post were settlers of the country in Spanish times. Many anecdotes of great interest might be given of in- dividuals of Spanish and Indians, under the Spanish regime. But they are necessarily excluded from the limits of this work. TJie Spanish ami French at early dates in the history of this country, had establishments on tlie Arkansas; and they had a settlement at the Post, more than a lialf a century ago. No settlement from its commencement down to tiiis day has been marked with fewer incidents. ..|i/ 1»- '•* tfV •*r*» *?-< nanngra1)Jo »ws and in- rftajliiiinis- •ach other, s and regu- lie country ?ivenofin. But tlioy panisli and limcnts on Inn a Jialf to this day ^ MISSOURI. LEXfiTii, 270. — Breadth, 220 miles. It contains G0,000 square miles, and :i8,()0(),(K)() acres. Bi^twccn lU'P, and 40° ao' N. latitude, and be- tween 11° 17' and 17° .'JO' W. longitude. Bounded north and.west by llic Missouri Territory j east and north-east by the Mississippi, which separates it from Illinois. South-east by the Mississip])i, which separates it from Kentucky and Tennessee. South by Arkansas Territory. CIVIL DIVISIONS. 1 n Counties. County Towns. Distances from Jefferson L B Boone, Columbia, 50 miles. Sm Callaway, Fulton, 32 In Cape Girardeau, Jackson, 208 EM Chariton, Chariton, 79 ^H ^- .. Clay, Liberty, 190 il . }*. n Cole, Jefferson City,^ ■"..■■■ H 'd^^Hj Cooper, • Booneville, 51 H\^^^ffl Crawford, Little Piney, 97 ;\ IB Franklin, Union, 79 ^B Gasconade, Gasconade, 47 ^B' Howard, Fayette, 65 'B Jackson, Independence, 177 4 ^H Jefferson, Ilerculaneum, 164 91 La Fayette, - Lexington, -.^ 138 iB| Lincoln, Troy, , 97 * I^H Madison, # Fredericktown, 170 9B Marion, Palmyra, 190 pH| Montgomery, Lewistown, 67 Mk New Madrid, New Madrid, 278 ' I^B : Perry, Perryvillc; 187 -'f- mm S" ^ ' 1 V'. ^..,. -** 11 1 ■n ^ 286 Mirtsouitr. Pike, Ralls, Randolph, Ray, St. Ciiarloa, St. Fnincis, St. Genevieve, St. Louis, Saline, Scott, Washington, Wayne, T»»>\vliii;j (irr<'ii, New liOiidon, Rnndoiph, Richmond, St. C'htirirs, Farinington, St. (icncvicve, St. liouis, Walnut Farm, Bcnfon, Polosi, no 1(>8 I'M 'J30 110 Whites, 11 'i,0t)5. Slaves, Greenville, The census for 1S30 gives its poinilation, 24,820. Total, 137,127. Face of the covntnj. A large extent of this great state^ in its south- east angle, commencing ahovc New Madrid, and extending down the great swamp, and through the alluvial region, a considerahle distance back from the Mississippi, is low, swampy, fidl of lakes, and in many places suhject to be inundated. Beyond that region, which is generally marked by a bold lino of rolling and fertile high lands, the country gradually swells into high tlint knobs, still rising beyond that region to the mountainous country of the lead mines. This country extends to the Osage and its tributaries. Beyond this, the country is broken and hilly; until we open upon the boundless belt of prairies, which spreads beyond the western limits of this state. The best portion, and the most in!iabited parts of the state are between the Missouri and tlio "^ Mississippi. This vast tract is no where mountainous. It contains great tracts of alluvial and high prairies. It is for the most part a surface, delightfully rolling and variegated. There is no phrt of the globe, in a state of nature, where greater extents of country can be traversed more easily, and in any direction by carriages of any description. Soil. One specific ditference between the soil of this country and that bordering on the Ohio, is, that the land here contains a greater pro- portion of sand, is more loamy and friable, and the soil not so stiff. There are tracts all over this country, where we find the clayey soils of Oiiio and Kentucky. But they are small. The roads generally run where the falling rain and snow are so readily absorbed, even in tlie winter, that the people are not troubled with the deep and almost impassable roads, that we find in those states. The rich uplands are of a darkish gray color; with the exception of the great tract about the lead mines, where the soil of decomposed pyrite is reddish, and of a color brighter than Spanish brown. The poorer uplands are generally covered with white oak, and Missorm. 287 tliat small speries of ouk dononiiii;itf!cl pin oak. It is usunlly a stifler and more clayoy soil than llie other; aiul of a lis for the ttso of plastrr. Ahnnd int crops of red clovr-r iniL'lil he made, by this manure. JM.ister is Omnd of the hest qnidily, and in inoxhanslihio (piantities, on the waters of llu3 Missouri. Imoiu analogy and the character of the niitiiral ^rrasses, we infer that St. l''oin, nnd the coart!<'r atid more succulent ;Li;r;isst's will llonrish almndanlly in this dei^) and rich soil. 'rurni|)s and hulhous rooted wLfctahlcs ;irow to a yreal size. Pumpkins, sfjiiaslK's, and m(,'lous, are raised no where in <.'reater abnndanec. At present tlic fodder provided for the stable in winter, is clii(!lly corn, ita leaves and husks, and what is called y/m/r/V I'n/.v.f. This is a coanseand tall ^'rass, covering,' the prairies in the j/reatest abiindanco. In the early stances of its orowtli, it resendjles young wheat; and in this state fnrnisheH a sueculent and rich feed lor rgrajH; is small, |)nrplo, and a toh'ndtly rich fruit in the month of October.— Wlien carefully dried in tin; aim, these grapes arc not mnch inferior to raisins. When ripe, they are too dry to make wine. The winter grape is small, austere, and sour. When matured by the winter frosts, it ho- conies tolerably pleasant. From tlio temperature! of tlin climate, the warmth and loosenofsg of the soil, and more than all thtMlryness of the atmosphere, wo woidd snpposo this country as favorabh? for the cultivation of fho vine, as any other in llic United Stales. 1'he atmospluro i^ drier here than in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana. The fault of the fruit diere, is to grow too abundant and succulent. The few attempts, that have been made to ctiltivatc the vino here, warrant the conclusion, that one day the southern exposures of iho gentle cuiincncea will bo covered with vines. All the fruits of the northern and middle states thrive in an unconnnon degree. The apple tree attains its utmost developement i-rnd beauty. An mhabitant from the northern states is struck witii surprise, to see this tree in three years from the time of its transplanting, and as soon as it attains the size of a man's wrist, loading itself with fruit, reach trees break down from the weight of their fruit. I'ear trees, apricots, ami nectarines, though they have been introduced in hut lew instances, prosper. This .seems to be the native country of fruit trees. Few attempts have yet been made to inoculate and engraft good kinds of fruit trees, and every thing in most instances, has been left to nature. Ap{)les arc already abundant in the older settlements. Barley yields a fine crop; and it is hoped, that not many years will elapse, before beer and porter, drinks so j)roper for this hot climate, will lake the place of that murderer both of soul and body, "whiskey. The mulberry tree is common in the woods ; and this is, un- doubtedly, among the best of the middle climates for breeding the silk worm, and making silk. In short, every production of the northern and Mi««ot in. 'JUl initMl • :'t;»fo'< llirivc;! hrrc Tin' InviH uf siiiiim'r ;iih1 Iho ilrynoHS of llm aliini.xiilKT'' fH'ciiIiiily fit this Hoil for tint fiiltivatioii of the jiicilicinul |i!-iiitH, rliiilviil). p'lliin cliristi, mikI llio [xippy. AniiiKil.t. IJivup, WMJviH, iiiid innlli rs, nrr n.sroiiiiiinn,nH in U.(Mih)VO .Moiiliurn ii'.idiM. The pniiri*^ woli", llicinost miscliiovoii.s of liicsjMH'it'S, is Ititt li"i frc'iucnt. HiiiriioeH and rik :\w only foiiiid in tlin prairicit beyond llio limits of liiis ;-r iieads, nnd jrronnd vipers arc; found in the unset- tled re;,Mons; ami esp(!cially near th(! Hint knobs and lerairies undoubtedly deslroy.s iiudti- ludesof them. The ponds, lakes, and rivers, durin;,' the si)riiii,' and autnnui, and during' the miixratin^' season of water fowls, arc literally covered with swans, pelicans, cranes, precsc, brants aiul ducks, of all the tribes and varieties. JMany of thcs.; fowls rear their younpf on Iho islands and sandbars of tlu; larno rivers, hi tlu; autumn multitudes of them are killed for tiieir (piills, fealhiMS, and llesh. The birds called (piails in j\ew J'iii^dand, and partrid;:ics here, are numerous, as is also a bird, some- what larirer than a dom(\stic hen, called the prairie-hen. In the autumn' of some sejisons they are seen liovcrinfj over the corn fields in /locks of hundreds. They are easily taken, and when fit are fine for the; table. There arc two larger and still more beautiful species of the grouse tribe, found far up the Missouri. Turtle doves are always numerous, as in some seasons are the wild pi;veoiis. Sini,dng birds are not so common as in the country firthcr south; or ihe more settled and cultivated regions of the north. It is a striking fact, that they become more common in any region, as cultivation advances. The robin red breast is seen in Hocks in the autumn, but docs not rear its young here. The magpie, or French I'i 1&: li « 20-2 MISSOURI. Mv;. '# 1' black bird, that is so frequently lieard cliattering its notes in tlie meadows of New England in spring, has only been observed iierc since the country has begun lo be peopled and cultivated. The red bird, or Virginia nigliting;ile, rears its young, and spends ihc winter here, and on a mild day in winter its mild whistle is delightful in the deep forests. The blue bird is heard in all the mild d ..of winter. Tlic beautiful parroquct frequents the svcamorc bottoms, and poorly compensates by the extreme beauty of its]ihunage for the injury it does the orchards. Tlie domeslic animals arc the same, as clsowlierc in the United States. The wide prairies every where covered with grass, invite the raising of cattle. Many of the fi-imers possess great droves; and they maybe multiplied to an indefmito extent. The cattle are fine, and the beef good. Wlien the same attention is here bestowed upon rearing the best kind of liorses, that is given to the subject by the Pennsylvania fiirmer, that noble animal will be raised in the utmost perfection. Sheep prosper, nor does the fleece degenerate. North of 40°, on the prairies between the Missouri and Mississippi, shepherds will one day find their homes, and their sheep will yield the finest and best wool. At present the wolf is a fatal enemy to them; and the number of weeds that bear burs is so great, that their fleeces become matted and tangled with them; and, in detaching, the staple of the fleece is injured. Swine are raised with greater facility, than in Ohio. Hickory and acorn bearing trees are more abundant than in that stale. On the whole, for rearing cattle, sheep, and horses, this state and Illinois have advantages over any other of the western states. Agriculture. There is no country, in which a farm is made with less ditficulty, or where tillage is more easy. A great proportion of the land is fit for the plough The soil is easy to work. The greatest obstacle in the way of present farming is the want of good fjncing materials. Stones are seldom to be found, and no where, except in quarries and ledges; and when found, they are not used for the purpose of fencing. Uidess forests are planted, there will soon be an absolute want of a sufllciency of any kind of timber for fencing. TIjc substitute ought to be fourd in hedges. Whenever the farmers of this country understand their true interests, they will immediately commence the planting of hedges. The subject has as yet engaged the contemplation of only a few intelligent husband- men. Tlioy have thought that the native gooseberry, which here grows wild, and of a tangled luxuriance, unknown in the country east of the ^ Alleghanics, would be sufficiently thoiny and impenetrable for a hedge. Ckjjiers have recommended the thorny locust, or acacia, the crab apple f ^ tree, the privet, a most beautiful shrub of the laurel class, used in the middle states to form boraers and walks. There seems no good reason, why the British hawthorn, or the Columbian thorn should not be adopted ♦ ^^ IIISSOL'IU. 203 for (Ills purpose. It would fjrow lierc more rnpidly, limn in Pennsylvania and Delaware, where it soon becomes ;i fence suflicieiit to turn cattle. The be;iuly of a wliorit field in full verdure in autinnn, in contrast with ihe hrown of the prairies is a striking feature in the cultivated landscape. It woidd he more so, when its outline was skirted with a living and ver- dant liedge. Tlie planting of the Alleghany while pine and the chesnut ought also to be objects of immediate attention. The scarcity of wood and limber imperiously cilLs upon those, who have any thought for the generations to come, to attend to this sort of improvement. Houses, S^'c. But a few years since, a house of better structure, than a temporary log cabin was a rare object. The case of obtaining subsist- ence was so great, and there was for a considerable time so little emula- tion among the people, lb:it they hfirdly consulted comfort, much less ornament. ]\Iost of the first settlers were backwoodsmen, used to the hardships of a laborious life. Indolent, and satisfied with the supply of the most common wants of nature, they lived in open and miserable habitations which neither excluded the rain, heat, or cold. It was a long time, before the country had mills, and the materials for building bore a high price. Sites for water mills are not common. But such have been found. Mills on the princij)lc of the inclined plane, and steam mills have been commenced. Good houses have been reared, not only in the towns and villages, but in the country. Log cabins and log houses arc disap- pearing in all directions, and better houses are taking their place. Rival- ry and emulation have been inspired; and the people have been often tempted to build more showy houses than were refpiisite cither for com- fort, or conformity to the circumstances of the builder. Brick and stone bouses, have been generally preferred. Climate. Soon after wc descend below the mouth of the Ohio, the climate begins to verge towards a southern one. This state occupies a medial position, and has a temperature intermediate between that of New York and Louisiana. From the circumstance, that the valley of the Mis- sissippi spreads like an immense inclined plane, towards the gulf of Mexico, it results, that north and south winds alternate through this valley. This fact applies most strongly to the immediate valley of the Mississippi. As the prevailing winds blow either up, or down the valley, the changes arc great and sudden. When the breeze for any length of time descends the Misssissippi the weather becomes cold; and if the same direction of the wind continues for successive days, and it be winter, the Missouri and the Mississippi are frozen, and the mercury falls below zero. After this wind has prevailed for a length of time, the op- posite wind gels the ascendency again; and it is not uncommon to iiave days, when one can sit at the open window, with comfort, in January. ♦ .^ ll irm 204 MISSOURI. Ilpnce tlio climate is exlremely fickle find variable. Tlio transitions are so rapid, ur, not only to lie nnconirorttible, bnt to liavo an nnfivoral)lo ef- fect npon the cnnstilnlion. Hut tlio country is always exempt from those d;un]>, and if it be winter, piercing norlli-east breezes, that prevail so much on the Atlantic shore. The winter comniences aI)ont Chrirstmas, and is frequently so severe, as to bridrtility ; and we have not witnessed scenery of a character more solitary, wild and bcatjtiful, than in the mine country. Along all the consid(^rable water courses there arc those blulVs, that in the wesicrn country mark the alluvial outline of streams. In some places, especially on the UpjX'r Mississippi, they swell to high hills, whicli rnn oulat right angles from the river, and seem like mountainous waves of the sea, suddenly arrested and tixed. Compared with the norlhorn states, and these partial exceptions aside, the habitable part of JNIissouri is oiio vast plain. Wc have already described the prairies of the west. All know, that the name is a French one, importing a meadow. Those, who havo not seen a prairie may easily form a conception of one. Yet the grandest objects of nature will not excite more surj)riz'.^ in the mind of a traveller from the Atlantic states, than tiic first view of a prairie. Riding day after day, throiigh forests, where the small improvements made in tiic wilderness scarcely interrupt the unbroken continuity of woods, he opens at once upon the view of a boundless horizon. lie beholds outstretched under his eye a perfectly level plain, of the most soft and beautifid ver- dure, covered with ilowcrs of every scent and hue. Here and there in the skirts of the prairies, and often in their centre are clumps of oaks prc- cans and black walnuts disposed in forms so regular, and generally circular, as can not fail to till the eye of an admirer of the ancient stylo of gardening. He is unprepared for a view in such strong contrast with the dark and lonely forests. It is impossible to convey by description the impression, which these views create. In the vast prairies, or on the verge of the blulls, that overlook them, taking into view tha, verdant ocean of grass, the vast rivers rolling their mighty masses of waters through the dark forests, the romantic hills stretching away in the distance; and here and there a cabin, or a house throwing up its column of smoke, and the cattle, horses and sheep, sleeping about it, this country furnishes enchanting landscapes for the pencil. <^' h. Missorni. 297 There areas yet few roads, that are wrought. Nature has been more in(kil"ent to this country, in this rcsptct, than pcrliaps to any other. It is neither a l)onii(lIcss sandy plain, nor a tamo and lovol prairie; but a (Ijvorf^ilied surface of f,MMitli; hills and easy slopes. Wherever the current of jKissinjf hasniarkcil a roati, it is ^'cnerally ayood one. If a person in ,1 caniajfe is dis.salislied vvilh the beaten on<', he selects one for himself, andean (ravel witli case, in most instances, throujfh the untrodden forest. TJic roads are passable at all tinu^s of the year; and seldom nuiddy more than two or three days in succession. This circumstance eminently distinj^uishes this countiy from that cm the Ohio. Mhicralti, FossUtt, 6^'c. The Rocky Mountains, which are a continua- tion of the inin(>ral niounlains of New Mexico, so abundant in the precious metals, probably contain thein too. Travellers, who have ascended the Missouri to its sources, say that fj[old dust is mingled with its sands, at the mouth of the lloclie Jaune, or Y<'llow Stone. Fossil coal is found in irreat abundance aloii" tlu; Missouri. It abounds near St. Charles and St. Louis. Tiie extent of the veins, and the quality of the coal have not been much tested. In a rc;,fi;»ii so bare of wood, these internal provisions for that deficiency will one iis(! iiimmiilH of l<-;i(l, tliat liavr l)C(;n Hnicltcd licic, (lie ore li;iH liillicifo Ixrii loiirid in «1cI!icIm'(I m:isH(.'S, wot in situ; ami ;i|i|Kiicii11y li;iiis|>(tr((lc aixl pn»(> pounds are annually smelted, giving employment to nearly 1,I2(M) hands. The ore is principally of that class caUed galena, and is very rich, yielding from 75 to 80 percent. Sorinicli lead remains in tin; slag, that there are peoi)le who purchase it, to smelt it anew. A <;ousi'.lerubIe jMjrlionof arsenic is driven from the load while it is smelling. The fumes of the smelling masses of ore arc poisonous; and cattl(;di(; from licking the .s7able pow(l(!r, render it a valuable addition to while lead. The quality of llic |)aint is supposed to be improved i)y the addition. The manufacture of red lead has been attempted. But the making of white lend, or even sheet lead has not been carried to any extent. Shot towers * l\. 300 MIKSOIHT* aie erected at Ilorculancum and at other places; and ^roaf quantities' arr exported. The mine country is remarkable for ils salubrity, the number of its sites for water mills, the fertility of its soil, and the enterprise of its farmers. No part of the coimtry, west of the Mississippi, so earnestly invites manufactures, especially those of lead. Those of iron have been commenced on a large sciilo. These mines, if worked fo the extent of which they are capable, would not only supply load enough for the United States, but for the world. The country where the di^fjrin^^s h:ivc been made, exhibits a curious spectacle. Coarse and dilapidated air furnaces, immense piles of slags, and all the accompaniments of smelting, show in how many deserted places these operations have been performed. The earth thrown up in the diggings contains portions of oxidcd minerals, and acquires in the air a brilliant reddish line; and the numberless excav- ations have the appearance of being graves for giants. It is an hundred years since the French began to dig lead ore in this region. Salt is made in large quantities at Boone's Lick, near St. Genevieve, and Ilerculaneum. Rivers. This state takes its name from the Missouri, which empties into the Mississippi on its eastern limit. This is by far the largest tributary of the Mississippi, bringing down more water than the Upper Mississippi itself. In fact, it is a longer river than the Mississippi, from its farthest source to the Mexican gulf. There are many circum- stances which render it one of the most interesting rivers; and it is clearly the longest tributary stream on the globe. Many have thought that fiom its length, the amount of its waters, and the circumstance of its commu- nicating its own character, in every respect, to the Mississippi below the junction, it ought to have been considered the main river, and to have continued to bear its own name to the sea. In opposition to this claim, we remark, that the valley of tiie Missouri seems, in the grand scale of conformation, to be secondary to the Mississippi. The Missouri has not the general direction of that river, which it joins nearly nt^.right angles. The valley of the Mississippi is wider than that of the Missouri, and the the river is broader. The course of the river, and the direction of the valley are the same, above and below the junction of the Missouri. — From these, and many other considerations, the 'fatlicr of wateis' seems fairly entitled to his name. The Missouri has a course of between 4 and 500 miles in tliis state, and the whole of the remainder in the territory of Missouri. It seems proper, therefore, that we should give a general description of this river, as belonging to this state. Its prodigious length of course, its uncommon turbidness, its impetuous and wild character, and the singular country through which it runs, impart to it a natural grandeur belonging to the w MTsaouni. :)01 h siiblimp. ^Ve Invo never crossed it, without experiencing a feeling of that sort; nor without a stretch of the imagimition, to trace it along its immense distances, tiirougli its distant regions to the lonely and stupen- dous mountains from which it springs. It rises in the llocky Mountains, nearly in the same parallel with the Mississippi. Tlie most authentic information of the sources of this mighty river, is from its first intrepid American discoverers, Lewis and Clarke. What may properly he called the Missouri, seems to be formed by three considerable branches, which unite not lar from the bases of the principal ranges of the mountains. To the northern they gave the name of Jefferson, to the middle, Gallatin, and to the southern, Madison. — Each of these branches fork again into a number of small mountain streams. It is but a short distance from some of these to the head w;iters of the Columbia, on the other side of the mountains. A person may drink from the spring sources of each, without travelling more than a mile. After this junction, the river continues a considerable distance to be still a foaming mountain torrent. It then spree Is into a broad and comparatively gentle stream full of islands. Precipito. peaks of black- ish rock frown over the river, in perpendicular elevationi. of 1,000 feet. The mountains, whose bases it sweeps, are covered with terebinthines, such as pines, cedars, and firs; and mountain sheep are seen bounding on their summits, where they arc apparently inaccessible. In this dis- tance the mountains have an aspect of inexpressible loneliness and grandeur. ' The river then becomes almost a continued cataract for a distance of about 17 miles. In this distance its perpendicular descent is 362 feet. The first fall is 98 feet; the second, 19; the third, 47; the fourth 26. It continues rapid for a long distance beyond. Not far below these falls, enters Maria's River from the north. This is a very considerable stream. Still farther down on the opposite side, enter Dearborn and Fancy, each about 150 yards wide. Manoles 100, Big Horn 100, Muscle Shell 100, Big Dry 400, Dry 100, Porcupine 112; all these enter from the south side. Below these enters the Roche Jaune or Yellow Stone, probably the largest tributary of the Missouri. It rises in the same ranges of mountains with the main river, and has many points of resemblance to it. It enters from the south by a mouth 850 yards wide. It is a broad, deep, and sweeping river; and at its junction appears the largest of the two. Its course is commonly calculated at 1,600 miles. But the sizes and lengths of all these tributaries are probably overrated. Its shores, for a long distance above its entrance, are heavily timbered, and its bottoms wide, and of the finest soil. Its entrance is deemed to be 1,880 miles above the mouth of the Missouri,* and was selected by the govern- ment, as an eligible situation for a military post, and an extensive settle- MO'i MI.9SOI Rf. iiionf. While hcnrs, elk, ami nioiiiitiiiii slicrpnro (lie principal nninmls .MPC'M lilouf^ this part of the rivrr. At the point oi'junclioti with iho VfiUow Stono, the Missouri haswitlt- ami line hottonis. Uiifortimatcly, its hanks arc for iho most part tlcsliluio of liinhcr, and this for a long scries of years will prevent its cajjacity for habitancy. White earth river from the north is a small stream, (j'ooho Ilivcr, 300 yards wide, comes in iVom the south side. Little Missouri is .shallow and rapid, and is about l.'JO yards wide. Knife River comes in from the south side, just above the Mandan villages. Cannon ball River enters from tlic south side, and is 1 10 yards wide. Winnipenhu, south side. Hcwarserna, south side. Chicnne is represented to be boatahle nearly 800 miles, and enters from the south side, by a mouth 400 yards wide; Tyber''s River enters from the same side. White River, beatable 000 miles south side, is a very beautiful stream, and has a mouth JU)0 yards wide. Poneas, south side. Qui-Courre, a fine stream with a short course, south side, and Riviere, a Jaquc, a noted resort for traders and trappers; White Stone; Big Sioux, and Floyd's Rivers. La Platte enters from the south, and has a longer course, than any other river of the Missouri. It rises in the same ranges of mountains with the parent stream, and measured by its meanders, is supposed to have a course of 2,000 miles, before it joins that river. It is nearly a mile in width as its entrance; but is, at its name imports shallow, and not boatablc except at its highest flood. Nodawa, north side. Little Platte north side. Kansas, is a large tributary from the south, has a course of 1,200 miles; and is boatable most of the distance. Blue Water, and two or three small streams l)elow, come in on the south side. Grand river is a large, long and deep stream, boatable for a great distance, and enters on the north side. The Charatons, come in on the same side. The La Mine enters on the south side. Bonne Femmc and Manitou, enter on tiic north side, and Salt river on the south. The Osage, which enters on the south side, is a large, and very impor- tant stream of the Missouri, boatable ()(>0 miles, and interlocks with the waters of the Arkansas. Three or four inconsiderable streams enter on the opposite side, as Miry, Otter and Cedar rivers. On the south side en- ters the Gasconade, boatablc for sixty-six miles, and is important for hav- ing on its banks extensive pine forests, from which the great supply of plank and timber, of that kind is brought to St. Charles and St. Louis. On the south side, below the Gasconade are a number of inconsiderable rivers, as Buffalo, St. John's, Wood River, and Bonhomme; and on the other side, the Charette, Femme Osage, and one or two other small branches, before it precipitates itself into the Mississippi. The bottoms of this river have a character, very distinguishable from those of the Uj)per Missisippi. They are higher not so wet, more sandy MISHOURI. .'{().') 'i »; f Nvitli Irocs which ;irr not so la.;![o, but tailor nnd sliaiiiliUi. lis alliivionH Homolhiiij,' narrower; that is to say, haviiijr for \hv. first live hinidrcd miles a medial width of soinolhiii;^ more than four inilos. Its hlufl'M, like those of the other river, arep[enerally litnc stone, l>nt not so i)cr|>cn- dicular; nnd have more tendency to rnn into tin; iiunmllc form. The bottoms abound with deer, turkeys and small ^Mme. 'I'ho river seldom overflows any part of its biinks, in this distanec. It is little inclined to bo swampy. There are nuich fewer lakes, bayous, and small pojids, than alon" the Mississii>pi. Prairies are .scarcely seen on the banks of tho river, within the distance of the first four hundred miles of its course. They are heavily tindjcred, and yet from the .soflness of the wood, easily cleared. The water, ihoujfh uncommonly turbid with a whitish earth, which it holds in suspension, soon and easily settles, and is then remark- ably pure, pleasant and healthy. The river is so rai)i(l and sweeping in its course, and its bed is composed of such masses of sand, that it is con- tinually shiftin;,' its sand bars. A chart of the river, as it runs this year, gives little ground for calculation in navigating it the ne.\f. It has nu- merous islands, and generally near Iheni is the most diflicult to be stem- med. Still more than the Mississippi below its month, it tears up in one place, and deposits in another; and makes more powerful and frequent changes in its channel, than any other western river. Its bottoms arc considerably settled for a distance of four hundred miles above its mouth. That of Charaton is the highest compact settle- ment. But the largest and most poi)ulous settlement in the state is that called Boone's Lick or Franklin county. Indeed, there are American settlers, here and there, on the bottoms, above Platte, and far beyond the limits of the state of Missouri. Above the Platte the open and prairie character of the country begins to develope. The prairies come quite in to the banks of the river; and stretch from it indefinitely, in naked grass plains, where the traveller may wander for days, without seeing cither wood or water. The ' Council Blulls' are an important military station, about six hundred miles up the Missouri. Beyond this point commen- ces a country of great interest and grandeur and denominated, by way of eminence, the Upper Missouri. TJie country is composed of vast and al- most boundless grass plains, through which stretch the Platte, the Yellow Stone, and the other rivers of this ocean of grass. The savages of this region have a peculiar physiognomy and modes of life. It is a country, where commence new tribes of plants. It is the iiome of buflaloes, elk, white bears, antelopes and mountain sheep. Sometimes the river washes the bases of the dark hill of a friable and crumbling soil. Here are found, as Lewis and Clark, and other respectable travellers relate, large and sin- gular petrifactions, botii animal and vegetable. On the \o[t of one of :t()i MiHftnnii. lliese liills \\\oy foumi llie petrified sktlcton of a liiijrc fisli, forty fivr- fwt in length. The herds of the ^rej/arions aiiitnalH, |Kirtic;iilarly th(! huHidoes, arc innumcrahlc. Sueh is the fjjeneral eharacler of tlie eoiinlry, until wo como in contact with the spurs of the Rocky MonntainH. As far lis the limilfl of the state, this river is capaltle of support ifiif ji dcnde popuhition, for n considcrnhle distance troni its hanks. Ahovc those limits it is generally too desfiluto of wooil, to become hahitabh,' by any other people, than hunters and shepherds. All the <,Meat tributarifs of this river arc copies, more, or less exact, of llie parent s4reain. One general remark applies to the whole country. The rivers have narrow mar;,'ins of fertility. The country as it recedes from tli(> river, becomes more and more arid, sandy and destitute of water, until it ai)proximat03 in character the sandy deserts of Arabia. The Osage, is one of the principal tributaries of the Missouri in tliia state. It comes in on the south side of the Missouri, one hundred and thirty miles above its junction with the Mississippi. At its moutli it is nearly four hundred yards wide. Its general course is from south to north; and the best cotton country in the state of Missouri is on its head waters. Its principal branches are Mary's, Big Bone, Yimgar, Potatoe, and Grand Fork rivers. Yungar is nearly as large, as the parent stream; and is navigable for small crafts, except at its grand cascade, for nearly an hundred miles. The cascade is a great cataract of ninety feet fall. When the river is full, the roar is heard far through the desert. It is a fine country, through which the river runs. The banks arc timbered, and abound with game, particularly bears. An interesting missionary station is situated on its waters. This station is under the care of the ' Ameri" can Board of Foreign Missions,' and has many Indian children in its school; and it is in a flourishing condition. The Maramec is a beautiful river, which runs through the mineral region, and enters the Mississippi eighteen miles below St. liouis. It is between two and three hundred yards wide at its mouth; and beatable in time of high waters 200 miles. Big river, Bourbon, and Negro Fork arc branches of this river, which in their turn are fed by numerous mountain streams. Bonhommc is an in- considerable stream, and enters the Missouri twenty-eight miles above its mouth. We have already named the Gasconade, so important to this country from the supplies of pine plank and lumber, with which it fur- nishes the country below it. There is a great number of considerable streams, which enters the Missouri and the Mississippi from the soutli, whose names we have already mentioned. The principal are the swash- ing, Gabouricj Saline and Apple Creek. St Francis and Wjiite River with their numerous branches rise in this slate. Above St. Louis on the eastern limits of the state, a number of considerable rivers enter the MinSOl ni. aoj i I'pprr Mirtsisftippi. !\s Danlnmc, Cuiviv. Suit Uiviir, ami Two Rivcru. — Of ilii'HiNSult Ku I 1= till! nu)st ci»nHi(lrral)lo, liaviny iv Imatable courHCof 10 or ')<) miU'-^- Tliin river watcrH na line n tract of country ns any in tlio Htalc. Tin; laud-' in: also oncellmi ahout Two UivcrH. There arc fifly other streaniH in thof here, where the intense ardor of t)i(! summer's siin, the s:in to dry up all slrrauis, hut those that are supplied by perennial spriii!j;s. or hy continued ranrincipal street printed here. 3f respectable taste for gar- in and about rvorld, have a iiere is no in- n population rants from all r immigrants, :e for this cir- fieir manners, ition to claim id to possess. :on tempt, or MISSOURI. lion questioning of chunutor arc numerous; and fatal rencontres, denominated 'affairs of honor,"' are a bloody stain upofl the character of tJiC place- There is a Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist, and Catholic Society in tlie town; and the institutions of religion are beginning to have considerable effect upon the manners and moral character of flic people. Whoever observes the position of this town on the map, will see, .tltat it is very favorably situated to become a town of supply of merchandise to a vast tract of country. In the centre of the Mississippi valley^ commanding the trade of the Missouri, the Upper INIissiysiiipi, and the Illinois, the capital of a very extonsrve fur trade, and the depot for as rich Bead mines as are in the world, it must necessarily become a large town. It has one obvious advantage over any town on the Ohio. Steam boats can corfie to St. Louis from New Orleans, at the lowest stage's of the water. It is very common for travellers from the Atlantic country, who are bound in the auturrin to New Orleans, to take passage from Cincinoali across the country to St. Louis, in order to avail themselves of the advantage of a direct passage to N(!W Orleans in a steam boat. The lowness of the water in the Ohio, and the difficulty of pat;sing over the falls at Louisville, render a direct steam boat passage from Cincinnati to New Orleans, at that season of the year, an uncommon occurrence, A great number of keel boats, and river crafts of all descriptions, bound to all points of the beatable waters of the Mississippi, arc seen at all seasons lying in the harbor at St. Louis. Miners, trappers, hunters, adventurers, immigrants, and people of all characters and languages, with all kinds of views and objects, meet here, and in pursuit of their various projects, scatter hence to the remotest points of the valley. The moral character of this town, so rapidly approaching tlie rank and consequence of a city, is rising. It still furnishes a temporary home to desperate and abandoned characters, who hope, in crossing the Mississippi, to fly beyond law and conscience. The character of the permanent inhabitants is respectable. Good regu- lations of every sort arc advancing. The Sabbath is respected; and a wholesome police is establishing. Such a stream of immigrants is con- tinually pouring in, and the people have so learned the habit of distrust, that hospitality to strangers is not a characteristic of the people. St. Genevieve is situated at the upper extremity of a beautiful alluvial prairie, about a mile west of the Mississippi. It is built on the Gabourie, a small creek which is occasionally beatable. The town contains a Catholic church, some neat French houses, a great many indiiferent ones and but few American establishments. The situation of the village is happy. Much lead is brought here for exportation ; and yet the town does not appear to thrive, not possessing more inhabitants tlian it did 30 years ago. Tlie present number is about 1 ,500. The prairie below the town is of extreme ■I 4^- v^ 308 Missornr. .1 fertility, containing 0,OtK) acres, IJ'nccd and cullivated in common. On the liill, west of the tONvn, is a handsome building erected for an academy. From this place is a magnificent view of the village, tiie bluffs above, the prairie below, and the I\Ii?sissippi hJweepinsr along in the distance. The Catholic worship is the prevailing one; and the inhabitants are principally French. Jackson, the county town of Cape Girardeau (county, twelve miles west of the Mississippi, is a respectable village, containing 100 houses, some of them handsomely built of brick. It is in the centre of one of the most populous and thriving counties in the state. Cape Girardeau is on a beautiful bluH' on the Mississippi, 50 miles above the mouth of tiie Ohio. It has a tine harbor for boats, and com- mands a noble view of the river above and below, it exliibils symptoms of decay. About this town, that beautiful tree, called yellow poplar, or lulipifcra Imodendron, attains its utmost devclopement. Potosi is the county town of Washington, and the centre of the mine district. It is situated in a pleasant valley, surrounded by hills, (55 miles south-west from St. Louis, and 45 west from St. Genevieve. St. Michael is an old French village among the mines. There are a number of other small villages in the mine district. H'erculaneum is situated on the west bank of tlie Mississippi, 30 miles below St. Louis, on a narrow alluvial plain, hemmed in on all sides, but the river, by high and romantic blufls, ren- dered still more imposing by a number of shot towers placed on their summits. This is the chief place of dc])osit for the lead of the lead mines. New Madrid is situated on the Mississippi, 50 miles below the mouth of the Ohio. This small village was once much more considerable than it now is. It is memorable for the romantic history of its origin under General Morgan in the times of the Spanish regime, and for the terrible earth quakes which it experienced in 1811 and 1812. These earthquakes were }nore .^verc tlian any on the records of our part of the continent. The western country was shook in every direction. Thousands of acres were sunk, and multitudes of lakes and ponds were created. The church yard of this village, with all its sleeping tenants, was precipitated into the river. The trees lashed together, were thrown down, or bent in every direction. The eartli burst, in what were called sand blows. — Eartli, sand, and water were thrown up to great heights in the air. Tlic river was dammed up, and flowed backwards. Birds descended from the air, and took shelter in the bosoms of people that were passing. The whole country was inundated. A great number of boats, pasBing on the river, were sunk. One or two, that were fastened to islands, were sunk with the islands. The country was but sparsely peopled, and most of the buildings, fortunately, were cabins, or of logs; and from these cir- MISSOURI. ;n)9 ciimstances, Pew ppoplo perislicxi. No country cnn recount a history of fiirlhquakcs, altenvlod with more terrific circumstances of commotion in ilie elements, and threatening more exterminating war with man and nature, than this. The thriving country ahout tliis village was desolated; and as the cartliquakes continued in gentler shocks, and have not ceased even to this time, Ihcre seemed to he good reason for ahandoning the country. The ijcoplc arc becoming more assured with respect to the I'liliuc, and New Madrid is gradually emerging from its prosti'atibn. There is a large and fine tract of alluvial and prairie country b^ick of tliis village. Tiie Big Prairie, about twelve miles distant, is a charming ppot for farmers. But from the munber of lakes, created by the earth- (|uakes, and from the extent of the swampy and imuidated country in its vicinity, the country about New Madrid has the reputation of being un- Jicplthy. A bayou, that enters the river just above the village, creates a great eddy and an admirable harbor; iuid New Madrid is next to Natchez, the most noted landing place for boats on the Mississippi above N. Orleans. ;">t. Charles on tlic Mis.souri is a pleasant village of about 1,200 inhab- itants. There is one long street, on which are a number of handsome brick buildings. It is situated twenty miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and the same distance north-west of St. Louis. The banks be- tween the village and the river are of solid lime stone ; and above the village we ascend by a moderate acclivity to a beautiful plateau of great ex- tent. These bluiTs command a noble view of the Missouri and its islands. Back of the village is a large extent of level country, covered with hazle copses, yielding abundance of wild hops, grapes and prairie plums. Two miles 1; low the town, opens the beautiful Point Prairie. We know of no place in hie western country, that has a more interesting country adjoin- ing it, than this village. There is a protestant and a catholic church here. It was for a number of years the political metropolis of the state. There are fine farms in the vicinity, and the inhabitants are noted for their sober and orderly habits. About one third of them arc FrencJi. Carondelet is a small French village, six miles below St. Louis. Many of the garden vegetables, sold in St. Louis market, are raised here. Troy Louisiana ville and Petersburg are small villages on the Upper Mississippi and its waters. Jelferson, a new town above the mouth of the Osage on the south side of the Missouri, since the seat of government was removed there, has become the position of the public buildings; but not being a fortunate selection, has not greatly prospered. Franklin is situated on the north bank of the Missourt, 150 miles by land above St. Louis, and more than 200 by the river. It is estimated to contain over 200 houses; and about one thousand two htvjidred inhabitants. It is surrounded by the largest body of rich land in the state; and is the centre !:M .■> '^ ,* 310 MISSOT'RI. of a populous region of riclinnd respectable furmors. Buonville, opposite Franklin, on the other side of the Missouri, was ori»,'inally settled by Col. Boone, the patriarch of Kentucky. Charaton is a small village at the mouth of a river of the same name. Bluft'ton is a village upon the same side of the river, and still higher on it, being in fact, but a little dis- tance within the western territorial limits of the state. Constitution, Liups, S^c. This state adopted hef constitution,and was admitted into the union in 1820. In its general features it resembles those of the other slates. Tiic senators arc elected for four years, and the representatives for two. The governor is elected for four years. Tiie judiciary is vested in a supreme court, a chancellor's couit, and cir- cuit, and other subordinate courts, the judges of which hold their offices', during good behaviour. Every fieo citizen, who has resided a year in the .state, and the last three montlis preceding tlic election, in the dis- trict, is entitled to his vote in that district. It is well known, that the article which allowed slavery, in the constitution, was long and bitterly contested in the national legislature. Manners, S^c. The same provisions arc made for education, as in most of the other western states. In the towns and villages there arc respectable schools; and the people generally are impressed with ^lic importance and necessity of educating their children. But there are too many rude and ignorant people here, as in all the western country, wlio affirm that they have been enabled to go through life comfortably, without education; and that their children are as able to do so, as they were. There are schools, dignified with the name of academies, in dif- ferent parts of the state. The Catholics have two or three establish- ments o{ religious, who receive young ladies for instruction. There is a tlieological school of some distinction in the barrens below St. Genevieve for the preparation of Catholic clcvcs for the ministry. In St. Louis society exhibits the same aspect as in other towns of a like size in the United States. It must be admitted that in the interior there is a perceptible shade of the roughness of people, who are far removed from the bosom of society. The roughness of the backwoodsmen is often, however, accompanied with an open hospitality, an honest simplicity, a genuine kindness of heart, which render a residence among them quite as pleasant, as in those regions, where observance, and public opinion have created a greater degree of apparent refinement. It might be expected, that a country almost boundless, with few barriers of law, or local limits of habitancy and property, an extent of nearly 1,000 leagues towards the Western Sea, would be the natural resort of wild and adventurous spirits, whose object was, as they often express it, to fly ^beyond Sabbath.'' It is 80 in fact. But there is more order and quietness, regulated society, and 1 ^^'■ MISSOURI. 311 correct public opinion, llian in such a state of things vvc should have a right to expect. There is an increasing number of religious societies, among which tiic Mctliodists are the most numerous. The Presbyterians and Baptists have also many congregations and churches. The Cumber- land Presbyterians are making considerable progress. The French and Irish people are for the most part Catholics. The number of Catholic congregations, probably, exceeds that of any particular denomination of the Protestants. The spirit of religious tolerance prevails to an excellent degree. Neighbors and relatives worship in churches of different de- nominations, without disturbing the intercourse of common life. The French of this country have their characteristic national manners, and arc the same gay and happy people. Those among them, that have standing, wealth, and education, show no other differences of character from the same classes of other nations, except such as result from their national temperament and manners. The poorer French have an unique and peculiar character. They were born in the woods, or at least far from society. Tiiey have been accustomed from infancy rather to the life of huntsnieuj trappers, and boatmen, than of husbandmen. They generally make indifferent farmers. Their cabin indeed shows well at a distance; and the mud daubing is carefully white washed. They have gardens neatly laid out, and kept clean of weeds. Beyond this the es- tablishments of the pctits paysans are generally sterile and comfortless. Their ancestors were accustomed to continual intercourse with the savages, and in habits of travelling many hundred leagues from their habitations in canoes, or on the banks of the streams, to hunt, procure furs and honey, or to traffic with the Indians. They were accustomed to the prompt and despotic mandate of a commandant. They were prepared to entertain but very inadequate ideas of the inestimable value of the mild, but pro- tracted dispensation of justice m our courts. They regarded our laws as a bottomless gulf; and had, for a long time after they came under our governrnent, a salutary dread of a proccs, which had a happy influence, to deter them from litigation. Familiarity with our decisions has gradu- . ally lessened this dread; and wlien they once acquire a passion for litiga- tion, they are more keen in pursuit of their object, than the Americans. It is an unpleasant reflection, that while we have given them political consideration, and learned them the value of land, and the necessity of cultivation, the comforts of municipal life, and the importance of educa- tion, we have also communicated to them a passion for litigation, and a fondness for ardent spirits. They are intermarrying and amalgamating with the Anglo-Americans. But even yet, on entering a village, com- posed of ecjual divisi(ms of French and American population, the French are seen, as a distinct people, by their stature, gait, complexion, houses. 312 "■.*■ MISSOURI. and the appcarnncc of tlicir children. Thoy nrc sm:illor in slaturo; have a different costunic, walk quicker, have more meagre forms, ami more tanned and sallow complexions. They how w ith more .J* m #• %> 1*... ■-:,♦ ILLINOIS. Length, 350 miles.— Breadth 180. Bctwocai 37" and 42° 30' N, latitude, and 10° 20' and 11° 21' \V . longitude, ft contains 50,000 square miles, and nearly 40,000,000 acres. Bounded on the nortli by tlie North-Western Territory. East by lake Michigan, Indiana, and the river Wabash. South by the Ohio, which separates it from Kentucky; and west, in its whole extent, by the Mississippi, which separates it from Missouri, and the Missouri Territory. Counties. County Totvns. Distances from Vandalia. Adams, Quiijcy, 193 miles. Alexander, America, 181 Bond, Greenville, 20 Calhoun, Gilead, 126 Clark, Clark C. II. 134 Clay, Maysville, 46 Clinton, Carlyle, 30 Cole, Cole C. H. Cook, Chicago, ' Crawford, Palestine, 118 Edgar, Paris, ■ . * 106 Edwards, Albion, 92 Fayette, Vandalia, Franklin, Frankfort, 102 Fulton, Fulton, 133 Gallatin, Equality, 137 Greene, CarroUton, 106 Hamilton, ' McLeansbro', 93 k I ILLINOIS. .117 Hancock, Henry, Jackson, Jefferson, Jo Daviess, Juhnson, Knox, La Salic, Lawrence, McLean, Macon, Macoupin, Madison. Marion, McDonougli, Mercer, Monroe, Montgomery, Morgan, Peoria, Perry, Pike, Pope, Putnam, Randolph, St. Clair, Sangamon, Schuyler, Shelby, Tazewell, Union, Vermillion, Wabash, Warner, Washington, Wayne, Rrownsvillc, Mount Vernon, Galena, Vienna, Knox C. n. Ottowa, Lawrencevillc, Bloomington, Decatur, Carlinvillc, Edwardaville, Salem, Macomb, Waterloo, IIillsboro% Jacksonville, Peoria, Pinckneyville, Atlas, Golconda, Ilenepin,! Kaskaskia, Belleville, Springfield, Rushvillc, Shelbyville, Mackinaw, Joncsboro', Danville, Mount Carmcl, Warren, Naslivillc, Fairfield, 65 . ■■iSi' 84 70 05 55 20 99 28 115 43 120 148 160 50 71 70 172 40 140 154 150 109 60 White, Vandalia is 781 miles from Washington, 75 from St. Louis, 288 from Nashville, 862 from New Orleans, 970 from New York, and 320 from Cincinnati. The census of 1830 gives the population of Illinois as follows , — Whites, 155,170. Slaves, 746. Total, 157,575. '■•* #^ 31N ILMNOIh. Face of the rounlrtf. Next lo TiOiiihiuiifi :inroporlion of the stale is either distrilmtcd in vast plains, or in barrens, that arc j^cntly rollinlr:itiim the water of llit; wells is lltiuid; which is lUmmranMv, if not uiihi>;iltliy. 'Die soil is of iIk; fuHt (|niility. In tho ^astiM of flowerfl the eye, mid all the Honscs receive iIkj lii;,'hcst gmtifica- lion. In (he time of slrawhcrricH, thouHaiid.s of acres are roddrtied with llie lincst y the perpendicular blufls; and a thick, tangled and heavily timbered bottom on the side of the river, that is marked with these mamellcs. When the prairie is found on the right or left of the river, so are all these accompaniments; and they regularly alternate, being found first on one side, and then on the other. The 'American bottom,' commences not far below Kaskaskia, and stretches along the eastern shore of the Mississippi 80 miles; terminating b ..I 'm •3' 320 ILLINOIS. i a little distance below the point, which is opposite the mouth of the Missouri. It is from three to six miles wide, and divided into two belts. The first, bordering the Mississippi, is a heavily timbered bottom. The next reaching the foot of the perpendicular bluffs, is prairie of the richest quality, covered, in the season, with grass and flowers. Parts of this tract have been in cultivation with the exhausting crop of maize one hundred years, without apparently producing the slightest exhaustion of the soil. No description will convey an adequate idea of the power of vegetation, and the rank luxuriance with which it operates along this plain of exhaustless fertility. Unhappily here, as almost universally, nature has compensated the prodigality of her gifts on the one hand, by counterbalancing disadvantages on the other. Wherever her bounties arc offered with little labor, and in such abundance as here, men will be found. But in the autumn you will enter few houses in the whole distance, where some of the members of the family are not sick. A bottom similar to this, alternately on the right and left bank of the Illinois, marks its course almost from its mouth to its source. It is in the same manner bounded by bluiTs. The same line of hills marks a belt beyond its bluffs. In short this configuration of the country designates the outlines of all the rivers in the valley of the Mississippi. Each of the great rivers has some distinctive signs impressed upon its bluffs and hills. The military bounty lands in Illinois arc laid off in the delta of the Illinois and Mississippi. Their shape is that of a curvilinear triangle. More than five million acres have been surveyed, to meet the appropria- tion of three millions and a half acres, which were assigned by congress, as a bounty for soldiers. These lands embrace all the varieties of soil, found in any part of the Mississippi valley. There are rich bottoms, in- undated swamps, grassy prairies, timbered alluvions, perpendicular bluffs, *mamelle' and river hills, barrens, and all qualities of soil from the best to the worst. Some portions may be affirmed healthy ; but such is not their general character. A great share is of first rate quality, as regards fertility. The lower portion next the Mississippi, where the two rivers, for a long distance, are near each other, seldom diverging more than eight miles, is generally of extraordinary fertility; but sometimes inundated, and too oflen unhealthy. As we ascend the Illinois, and the two rivers diverge, the character of the country iMJComcs more diversified, less subject to in- undation, more happily sprinkled with hill, dale, copse, and prairie. The north-eastern division of this tract is in general a fine country. It would lead to a particularity beyond our object, to go into a detailed description of all the bodies of excellent land in this slate. For not only here, but over all the western country, the lands seem to be distributed in bodies, either of rich or sterile, level or broken lands. On Rock River, the Illinois, IhcKaskaskia, Embarras. between the Big and Little Wabash, ,fT jottoms, in- 3d, and too ILLINOIS. 321 (in tlie Parnssaw, the Macoupin, tlic Sanrramon, and on all the considcr- ablo streams of this stato, there are very Inrno bodies of first rate lands. Tlio Grand Prairie, the Mound Prairie, the prairie upon which the Marino Settlement is fixed, and that occupied l)y the society of Cliristians from New England, are all exceedingly rich tracts. The Sangamon, in particular, is an Arcadian region, in which nature has delighted to bring together her happiest combinations of landscape. It is generally a level country. The prairies are not so extensive, as lo be incapable of settlement from want of timber. The Sangamon itself is a fine beatable water of the Illinois, entering it on the south side, 140 miles above the mouth of the Illinois. All the waters that enter this beautiful river, have sandy and pebbly bottoms, and pure and transparent waters. There is a happy proportion of timbered and prairie lands. The soil is of great fertility. The climate is not very diiTerent from that of New York, and the latitude about the same. The summer range for cat- tle is inexhaustible. The growth of forest trees is similar to that of the rich lands in the western country in general. The proportion of locust, black walnut, and peccan trees, that indicate the richest soils, is great. Iron and copper ore, salt springs, gypsum, and stone coal are abundant. All who have visited this fine tract of country, admire the beauty of the landscape, which nature has here painted in primeval freshness. So beautiful a tract of country was early selected by immigrants from New England, New York, and North Carolina. More than 200 families had fixed themselves here, before it was surveyed. It now constitutes a num- ber of populous counties, and is thickly settled by thriving farmers. The first settlement of Greene county, one of the most populous, was in 1817; and the first sale of lands in 1821. It has now 7,854 inhabitants, and 1,207 militia. A body of lands, perhaps equally extensive and fine with that on the Sangamon, lies along the course of the Kaskaskia, or Okau. This river has a long course through tlie central parts of the state, and a country happily diversified with hill, vale, prairie, and forest. The streams that fall into it, have sufficient fall to be favorable for the site of mills. The best settled parts of the state are watered by this river. On its banks is Kaskaskia, formerly the seat of government, and Vandalia, at present the metropolis. Although there are extensive bodies of sterile and broken lands in (llinois, yet take the whole of its wide surface together, it contains a greater proportion of first rate land, than any state in the Union ; and probably as great in proportion to its extent, as any country on the globe. One of the inconveniences appended to this extent of rich country, is too yroai ;i projhjrtion of prairicH, with which two-thirds of the surface ai-e 41 H^ '■^- '»l '% iili! 322 ILLINOIS. covered. But the prevalence of coal and peat, and the ease and rapidity with which forest trees may be raised, will render even the extensive prairies habitable. Rivers. It is only necessary to look on the map of this state, to see what astonishing advantages for inland navigation nature has given it. On its northern extent, it has for a great distance the waters of lake Michigan, and the boatable streams that empty into it; and by this vast body of waters, a communication is opened with the northern fronts of Indiana and Ohioj with New York and Canac.a. On the north-west frontier it has Rock River, a long, beautiful and boatable river of tlie Mississippi. On the whole western front it is washed by the Mississippi; and on its northern by the Ohio. On the east it is bounded by the Wa- bash. Through its centre, winds, in one direction, the Illinois, connect- ing the Mississippi with lake Michigan by the Plein and Kankakee, a river, excepting a short distance of shoals, almost as uniformly boatable as a canal; and in another direction, the beautiful Kaskaskia winds through the state. Besides these, there are great numbers of boatable streams, penetrating the state in every direction. Such is the intersec- tion of this state by these waters, that no settlement in it is far from a point of boatable communication, either with lake Michigan, the Missis- sippi, or the Ohio. It may be added, that when the state shall have been inhabited as it will be, as no country affords greater facilities for making canals, from the friability of the soil, its levelness, and the proximity of the sources of the boatable waters to each other, canals will complete the chain of communications, and transport will be almost as entirely by water in Illinois, as it now is in Holland or China. At present the state is supposed to have 4,000 miles of boatable waters in her limits. The Illinois, which gives name to the state, may be considered the most important river, whose whole course is in it. It rises in the north- eastern parts of the state, not more than 35 miles from the south-western extremity of lake Michigan, and interlocking by a morass with the river Chicago, which empties into that lake. Its two main head branches are Plein and Kankakee. Thirty miles from the junction of these rivers, enters Fox River, from the north. Between this and the Vermillion, enter two or three inconsiderable rivers. The Vermillion is a considera- ble stream, which enters the Illinois from the South, 260 miles above the Mississippi. Not far below this river, and two hundred and ten miles above the Mississippi, commences Peoria lake, which is no more than an en- largement of the river, two miles wide, on an average, and twenty miles in length. Such is the depth and regularity of the bottom, that it has no perceptible current whatever. It is a beautiful sheet of water, with ro- mantic shores, generally bounded by prairies; and no waters in the world nois, connect- ILLINOIS. 323 furnish finer sport for the angler. M'Kee's and Red Bud enter not far from this point. Crow-Meadow River almost interlocks, at its source, with the Vermillion of the Wabash. Two or three inconsiderable streams enter the river from the north, not far from the lower extremity of Peoria lake. Still lower down enters from the south Michilimackinack, a very considerable stream, boatable nearly an hundred miles from the river into the interior. Below this enter Spoon and Crocked Rivers. Still lower down on the same side enters the Sangamon by a mouth 100 yards wide; and is boatable 140 miles. From its position, and the excellence of its lands, it is one of the most important rivers of the state. Chariton, Otter, Apple, and Macoupin rivers are all considerable streams, that water fine tracts of country. On the north side of the Illinois, the rivers that enter on that shore, Jiave their courses, for the most part, in mountainous bluffs, which often approach near the river. For a great distance above its mouth, the river is almost as straight as a canal ; has in summer scarcely a perceptible current, and the waters, though transparent, have a marshy taste to a. de- gree to be almost unpotable. The river is wide and deep; and for the greater part of its width, is filled with aquatic weeds, to such a degree, tliat no person could swim among them. Only a few yards width, in the centre of the stream, is free from them. It enters the Mississippi, through a deep forest, by a mouth 400 yards wide. Perhaps no river of the western country has so fine a boatable navigation, for such a great dis- tance, or waters a richer and more luxuriant tract of country. On the banks of this river the first French immigrants from Canada fixed them- selves ; and hpre was the scenery on which they founded their extravagant paintings of the western country. By a moderate amount of labor and expense, this river might be united with the Chicago of lake Michigan. Appropriations have already been made by the state for the canal, that is intended to eifectuate this purpose. We have already remarked, that at certain seasons of the year, boats of five tons burden already pass through the morass, from one extremity of which the waters are discharged into the Chicago of lake Michigan ; and from the other into the Plein of the Illinois; thus furnishing a natural communication between two rivers, whose outlets are so wide and opposite from each other. Indeed, by the most obvious appearances, along the Illinois and some of its waters; as the Plein for example, it is manifest, that lake Michigan once discharged at least a part of its surplus waters into the Mississippi. This, too, may explain the obvious appearance in that lake, of being now many feet lower than once it was. This fact is palpably marked every where along the rocky shores of the lake. «** 324 ILUNOIS. ! » . S^' Ruck River is one of the most clear uikI Ijcautirul Iribiitarics osition, it should seem, nmst become one day of consequence. It in n point to which large steam boats can ascend from below, to wait for the smaller boats, that ascend the Ohio in low stages of the water. Oxford, Carmi, Palmyra and Palestine are commencing villages on different waters of the Wabash. Diseases, 6fc. The climate is so nearly the same with that of Missouri, which we have already described with some particularity, that we need add but little in this place. It is generally lower, more extensively watered, and something more humid than its sister state, opposite the Mississippi. Its diseases arc similar, though we think it more subject to intermittent and remittent fevers. In this state, as well as that, in the extensive and rich bottoms, the cows are subject to a terrible and inexplicable, or at least as yet, unexplained ilisease, called rrdlk sickness. It occurs most frequently in autumn, and alwut that period of autumn, when the first severe frosts happen. From this circumstance, and the fact that the cattle arc then driven by necessity to pasture upon the succulent vines and herbage of the forest, that remain unhurt by the frost, it is generally supposed to be occasioned by the catinrr of some poisonous vegetable. The animal affected with it becomes ap- parently weary and faint, and can travel but a little distance without fall- ing. It seems languid and stupid, and so continues to droop until it dies At this time, and under the influence of this sickness, the milk of the cows taken in any quantity, seems to produce the same disease in men, or what ever animals swallow it. The persons are subject to extreme nausea, faintness, vertigo, recklessness and death. There are, probably, many supposed cases of this disease, that have an entirely different origin. — Some have tiuestioned if it be not altogether a fabulous disease. We have no doubt upon the subject. We have conversed with so many who have had it, and have recovered, .and have heard of so many deaths, thai were well attested to have arisen from this cause, that we have no more doubt of its having affected men, than animals. It has been a subject of earnest local disputation among farmers and physicians where it occurs, and has recently been discovered to be occasioned by a luxuriant poison vine, which grows four feet in height, and is abundant in the richest bottoms. Roads, Public ImpnYnements, Seminaries, 6^c. Beside the higher schools, called Academics, which have been commenced in different [mrls of the stale, Rock S})riiig Theological School iy a respectable Baptist ILLINOIS. m) endowment in the Turkey Hills Scltlcment, 17 miles cast of St. Louis, and on the ffreat road from that place to Vincenncg. It is intended to contain a High School, an Academy nnd Theological Department. The expenses of a student are not over 50 dollars a year. It has 50 students. Illinois College situated at Jacksonville, was founded in 1829, and has a fund of 13,000 dollars. It has from twenty to thirty students. The soli in this state, as we have remarked of Missouri, in general is favorable to roads. The low and clayey prairies are exceptions. But there are vast extents of country where nature has furnished as good roads as could be desired. Some of the ferries are difficult to cross in rainy periods, from the the muddiness of the_^approaches to them. There are considerable portions of the country where the roads are very deep and heavy in the winter. The rivers furnish most of the communica- tions for transport. In no part of the United States would it be easier to make canals for the rest. One between the Chicago and Des Plaines, as we have seen, has been contemplated. The general government has appiopriated 100,000 acres of land to aid the project. At this time, when canals are so generally in contemplation, other routes for canals have been surveyed. The same provisions for schools have been made here, as in the other western states. In addition to a thirty-sixth of the whole of public lands, three per cent, on all the sales of public lands are added to the school fund. It is contemplated to establish an University. One- sixth part of the school funds, and two entire townships have been appropriated for this purpose. There is, in many places, a great need of primary schools ; though the people display a growing sense of the vital importance of education to the well being of the state. In the more pop- ulous and opulent villages, schools are on the same footing, as in the other places similarly situated, in the United States. Constitution and Laws. The constitution of this state was adopted in 1818. The representatives and senators are chosen biennially ; the gov- ernor and lieutenant governor for four years. The judiciary is vested in a supreme court, and such other subordinate courts as the legislature may see fit to establish. The supreme court consists of a chief justice and three associate justices, who hold their offices for a given time. All free white males, who have resided six months in the state, are qualified to vote, and they give in their votes at elections viva voce. History. The early history of this country has necessarily been an- ticipated in the general history of Louisiana. Here were the first French establishments which were made in the valley of the Mississippi. Some of the French villages date back considerably beyond an hundred years. This colony was known for a long period in the French history by the name of the lUinoiij. They often furnished aid from this colony to 42 m T-p' 330 ir.LTNOIS LoiiiHinna in hor wars willi ffio Spanish nnd Frulians. 'Dicro was a tirno wfi] 332 IIJilNOIS. m *Thc Cttvo in Rock,' or 'House of Nature,' Iwlow Shawm otown, jh pointed out (o pa8son|rerH on the Ohio, as a jpfrciit curiosity; nnik its front is marked with the names of its visitors. Above and below it are hidi perpendicular lime stone blutl's, surmounted with cedars, above which arc sailing in the blue,eaglcs, birds of prey, or aquatic fowls. The entrance to the cave is just above high water mark. It has an arched roof 25 or 30 feet high, and extends back 120 feet. It has occasioiialjy atfordcd a tem- porary winter asylum to families, descending the river. The immonHo prairies, and the numberless sink holes of this state are curiosities, no way different from the same spectacles in Missouri. .^W' .I-)-,, t - 1 t> t ■ ■ .-• * f' ^'>V, V "^A* TENNESSEE. Medial length, 400 miles; medial breadth 120. * Between 35° and \W JKV N. latitude, and 1 1° :J0' and 10° W. longitude. Bounded east by North Carolina;- south h (T Georgia, Alaljania and Mississippi; west by the river Mississippi. It was originally included in the state of North Carolina, from which it was separated, and admitted into the Union in 1790. CIVIL mVISIONS. Counties. County Towns. Distances from Nashmlle. Anderson, Clinton, 105 miles. Bedford, Shelbyville, 52 Bledsoe, Pikeville, 100 Blount, Marysvillo, 107 '. Campbell, Jacksboro', 543 Carroll, Huntingdon, 109 Carter, Elizabcthton, 116 , Claiborne, Tazewell, 243 Cooke, Newport, 247 Davidson, Nashville, Dickson, Charlotteville, 40 1 r *" Dyer, Dyersburgh, k ' 168 Fayette, Somcrville, 184 Fentress, Jamestown, 131 Franklin, Winchester, 82 Gibson, Trenton, 139 M * Giles, Pulaski, 77 ,;.. , Grainger, Rutletlge, • 232 Greene, Grcenvillo, 273 Ilardiman, Bolivar, 158 x*?^ 4./' ^ ; H ' ' ^ - ■ , '■ffi'- •.• ' * 334 TENNESSEE. ^ Hamilton, Hamilton C. H. 148 ;i-l Hardin, Savannah, 112 Hawkins, Roficrsville, '**'. 264 Haywood, Brownsville, 175 Henderson, Lexington, 130 Henry, Paris, 108 i Hickman, Vernon, 66 Hm 1 Humphries, Reynoldsburgh, 78 1 Jackson, Gainesboro', 79 1 Jefferson, Dund ridge, 229 1 Knox, Knoxville, 199 Lawrence, Lawrenceburgh, 75 Lincoln, Fayettev'Ile, 73 .^ McMirin, Athens, 153 McNairy, Purdy, 128 Bhi i Madison, Jackson, 147 Marion, Jasper, 114 1 Maury, Columbia, 42 1 Monroe, Madisonville, 168 1 Montgomery, Clarksville, 46 1 Morgan, Morgan C. H. 161 1 ' , Overton, 1 Obion, Monroe, 109 Troy, 161 wm % 1 Perry, Shannonville, 114 1 Rhea, Washington, 129 ■II 1 Roane, . Kingston, 159 1 1 Robertson, Springfield, 25 ' Rutherford, Murfreesboro', 33 I^H Sevier, Sevier C. H. 225 Shelby, Memphis, 224 Smith, Carthage, 52 Stewart, Dover, 81 ■H ij ; Sullivan, Blountsville, 306 I ffii Sumner, * Gallatin, 25 mi • "^^pto"* Covington, 197 111 Warren, , McMinnville, 74 lj{ 1 Washington, Jonesboro', 298 1 m :-^ • Wayne, Waynesboro', 92 ■ W Weakly, Dresden, 132 H ^ ^^^^' Sparta, 92 HH Williamson, Franklin, 18 1 Wilson, Lebanon, 31 * ■'.* ■w,. 4 ""■ L"l'^».!PBPr^lPK;P< ^m^timmmm mmn mmmmmmm'fim ¥. TENNESSEE. 335 Nashville is 714 miles from Washington; 5fH from New Orleans; 297 from Cincinnati; 288 from Indianapolis, and 993 from New York. The census of 1830 gives the popiilation of this state as follows: — Whites, 537,930; Slaves, 142,37t). Total 084,822. Face of the country. In this respect this state is more diversified than any other in the western country. The Cumberland Mountains range through it in an oblique direction, dividing it into two distinct sections, called East and West Tennessee. In East Tennessee the AUeghanies branch out into a great number of ridges. Among these the most lofty are Cumberland, and Laurel Ridge. Stone, Yellow, Iron, Bald, and Unaka are different peaks of a continued chain. Welling's and Copper Ridge, and Clinch, Powell's and Bay's Mountains are at the north-east of the state. It is singular, that all these mountains have a dip towards the west, apparently surpassing that of tlioir eastern declivity. Mountains and hills occupy a very great proportion of t*'e state. There can be nothing grand and imposing in scenery, nothing striking and picturesque in cascades and precipitous declivities of mountains, covered with wood ; nothing romantic and delightful in deep and sheltered vallies, through which wind clear streams, which is not found in this state. Even the summits of some of the mountains exhibit plateaus of considerable extent, which admit of good roads, and are cultivated and inhabited. The mountains and hills subside, as they approach the Ohio and Missis sippi. On the vallies of the small creeks and streams are many pleasant plantations, in. situations beautiful, and yet so lonely that they seem lost among the mountains. These vallies are rich, beyond any of the same description elsewhere in the western country. The alluvions of the great streams of Tennessee and Cumberland differ little from those of the other great streams of the West. As great a proportion of the cultivable land in Tennessee is first rate, as in any other of the western states. — The soil in East Tennessee has uncommon proportions of dissolved lime, and nitrate of lime mixed with it, which give it a great share of fertility. The descending strata in West Tennessee appear to be arranged in the following order: first, loamy soil, or mixtures of clay and sand; next, yellow clay; thirdly, a mixture of red vSand and red clay; and lastly, a sand, as white as is seen on the shores of the Atlantic. In the southern parts of the state are immense banks of oyster shells, of a size, that in some instances, the half of a single shell weighs two pounds. They are found on high table grounds, far from the Mississippi, or any water course, and at a still greater distance from the Gulf of Mexico. Earths, Fossils, and Salts. Beautiful white, grey, and red marbles are found in this state. Inexhaustible quarries of gypsum, of the finest quality, abound in East Tennessee, in positions favorable to be transported *%'■ ^ ■*s,. 336 TENNESSEE. by the boatablc vatcrs of the Ilolsfon. Burr mill stones are quarried from some of the Cumberland mountains. Beautiful specimens of rock crystals are sometimes discovered. One or two mines of lead have been worked; and iron ore is no where more abundant. Salt springs abound in the country ; though few of them are of a strength to justify their being worked. Nitrous earth is very abundant ; and any quantity, required in the arts, might be made from the earth of the salt pctre caves, which abound in this state. These caves are among the most astonishing curiosities. One of them was descended 400 feet below the surface ; and on the smooth lime stone at the bottom was found a stream of pure water, sufficient to turn a mill. A cave, on an elevated peak of Cumberland JMountain, has a perpendicular descent, the bottom of which has not yet been sounded. Caves, in comparison with which, the one so celebrated at Antiparos is but a slight exxavation, are common in this region of subterranean wonders. The circumstance of their frequency prevents their being explored. Were there fewer in number, we might amuse our readers with accurate descrip- tions of the noblest caves in the world. As it is, little more of them is known, than that they abound with nitrous earth; that they spring up with vaulted roofs, or run along, for miles, in regular oblong excavations. A cave, which may be descended some hundred feet, and traced a mile in length, is scarcely pointed out to the traveller, as an object worthy of particular notice. The r o^* remarkable of these subterranean wonders has been traced ten miles. Climate and Prodvctions. The climate of this medial region, between the northern and southern extremities of the country, is delightful. — Tennessee has a much milder temperature than Kentucky. In West Tennessee great quantities of cotton are raised; and the growing of that article is the staple of agriculture. Snows, liowever, of some dei)th are frequent in the winter. But the summers, especially in the more elevated regions, are mild ; and have not the sustained ardors of the same season in Florida and Louisiana. Apples, pears, and plums, which are properly northern fruits, are raised in great perfection. The season of planting for maize, in the central parts of the state, is early in April. In elevated and favorable positions, no part of the United States is healthier. In the low vallies where stagnant waters abound, and on the alluvions of the great rivers, it is sickly. Almost all the forest trees of the western country are found within tlic limits of this state. The laurel tribes are not common. Juniper, red cedar, and savine are seen on the numberless summits and declivities of the mountains. Cotton, indigo, corn, whiskey, horses, cattle, flour, gun powder, salt petre, poultry, bacon, lard, butter, apples, pork, coarse linen, ■'♦-. 5-^ Klif TENNESSEE. 33? 1<* tobacco, and various other arliolos constitute the loading of boats, that comedown the Cumberland and the Tennessee; and these articles are produced in great abundance. Cotton, of a certain quality, is known by the name of Tennessee cotton, in all places where American commerce has reached. In sheltered situations figs might be raised in perfection. The present outlets of the commerce of the state are the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers. The southern divisions of this state are so much nearer the gulf of Mexico by the Alabama that there can be no doubt, that the enlightened and enterprising people will, before long, make canals, which shall connect the waters of the Tennessee with those of the Alabama and Mobile; and thus shorten the very circuitous present communications of this slate with the gulf of Mexico to one third of their present distance. Rivers. We have alieady described the Tennessee, and its principal branches, under the head of Alabama. It may not be amiss to repeat, that it rises in the Alleghany mountains, traverses East Tennessee, and almost the whole northern limit of Alabama, enters Tennessee, and crosses nearly the whole width of it into Kentucky, and thence empties into the Ohio. Its whole course, from its fountains to that river, is longer than that of the Ohio from Pittsburgh to its mouth, being by its meanders, nearly 1,200 miles. It is by far the largest tributary of the Ohio; and t is a question, if it do not furnish as much water as the main river. It is susceptible of boat navigation for at least a thousand miles. It enters the Ohio thirteen miles below the mouth of the Cumberland, and fifty- seven above that of the Ohio. Its head branches in East Tennessee are Holston, Nolachucky, French Broad, Tellico, Richland, Clinch, Big Emery, and Hiwassee rivers. In its whole progress, it is continually receiving rivers, that have longer or shorter courses among the mountains. The principal of these are Powell's, Sequalchee, Elk and Duck rivers. The Cumberland rises in the Cumberland mountains, in the south-east part of Kentucky, through which it has a course of nearly 200 miles. It has a circuit in Tennessee of 250 miles; and joins the Ohio in the state of Kentucky. Its principal branches, in this state are Obed's river, Carey's Fork, Stone's, Harpeth, and Red rivers. Most of the tributaries of this and Tennessee rivers rise in the mountains, and .are too shallow for boat navigation, except in the time of fltxKls. Occasional floods occur at all seasons of the year, in which flat boats can be floated down to the main river, to await the stage of water, when that, also, shall be navigable to New Orleans. Obian, Forked Deer, Big Hatchee and Wolf rivers, enter the Mississippi on the western boundary of the state. These rivers form important boatabic communications from the interior of that large and fine district of country, ' the .facksw purchase,' with the Mississippi. It 43 # 111* 338 TENNESSEC:. would form but n barren cafaloguo of barbarous words, to give the narrica of all Iho rivers, large and small, that water this state. N*. ;»art of the western country is better watered. It is a country of hills and mountains, and mountain streams, and beautiful vallics. ** The Jackson purchase in the west part of Tennessee has not been settled more than 13 years; but its fertility and prosperity arc indicated by the fact, that there are already 15 or KJ comities in it. Agriculture^ Produce and Manufactures. Cotton is the staple article of growth. But the soil and climate rear all the products of Kentucky, In abundance; and as neither in the staple of the cotton, or its amount, can they compete with tlie more southern states, and taking into view the great depression of the price of that article, it is hoped, that tlie hardy and intelligent farmers of this great state will turn their attention to some other articles of cultivation, |)articularly the silk mulberry, the vine, and the raising of bees, for which the soil and climate seem to be admirably fitted. Wheat, rye, barley, spelts, oats, Indian corn, all the fruits of the United States, with the exception of oranges, grow luxuriantly here. In East Tennessee, considerable attention is paid to raising'cattle and horses, which are driven over the mountains to tlie Atlantic country for sale. In 1820, the number of persons employed in agriculture was 109,919; and in manufactures 7,800. The amount of articles manufuctured wag estimated at between four and five millions of dollars. The principal articles were iron, hemp, cotton and cordage. The exports Jiave hitherlo been through New Orleans. Some of the articles are sent to the head waters of tlie Ohio, and recently some have been wagoned across tlic ridges to the waters of the Alabama, and have found their way to the gulf by Mobile. Over a thousand persons are employed in conducting tlie commerce of the state. Chief Towns. Murfreesborough was until recently the political metropolis of the state. It is situated on Stone's river, thirty-two miles south-east from Nashville; and contains about fourteen hundred inliab- itants. It is central to the two great divisions of the state, and is surrounded by a delightful and thriving country. Nashville is the present capital of the state, and the largest town in it. It is very pleasantly situated on tlie south shore of tlie Cumberland, adjacent to fine bluffs. Steam boals can ordinarily ascend lo this placc^ as long as they can descend fr6m the mouth of the Cumberland to that of the Ohio. It is a place, that will be often visited, as a resort for the people of tlie lower country, during the sultry months. Scarcely any town in the western country, has advanced with more rapid strides. The legislature has rescinded a law forbidding the introduction of any branch of the bank of the United States into this state. A branch of that ^. 1^ •9 * TENNESSER. IVS\) biiiik lias been fixed lierc, ami li;is{riejilly favoured llic growth nfllie town. A splendid liotcl, which had been burnt, has been rebtiiit in more than its former beauty. Tiic town is iidornod witli one of th»i Uirgest iind handsomest market houses in the western country. It is the seat of tho university of Nashville, which, in regard to its professorships, library, chemical and philosophical apparatus, the estimation of its president, and the actual fruits of its utility, has taken a high i)lace among western insti- tutions of the kind. It has a number of churches, a lyceum, and many handsome private dwellings. It issues four or five gazettes, which rank among the most respectable in the West. The citizens in general, evince an encouraging interest in the advancement of science, literature and taste. Few towns impart more pleasant impressions of general hospitality and urbanity to strangers. It contains 5,111 inhabitants. It is 714 miles south-west from Washington; 594 north-east from New Orleans; 21)4 south-west from Cincinnati; 288 south from Indianapolis, and 937 south- west Irom New York. Knoxville, the chief town of East Tennessee, is sitiiated on Holston river, four miles below its junction with French Broad. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants; has growing manufactures, a respectable seminary of learning, and is a pleasant and thriving place. Knoxville college in this town, is one of the oldest seminaries in the state. Beside this and Nash- ville university, there is Greenville college, incorporated in 17J)4, with from 30 to 40 students, and the theological institution at Marysville in East Tennessee. It has a library of 5,500 volumes; is under Presby- terian supervision, containing in the theological and academical departments, 55 students. The following are considerable villages, containing from 500 to 1,500 inhabitants. Blountsville, llogersville, and Riitledge on Holston river. Tazewell, Granlsborough and Kingston, on Clinch river; Joncsborough, Greenville, Newport, Daudridgc, Suvicrvillo on French Broad and its waters; Marysville, Washington, Pikevillc, Madison, Winchester, Fayette- villo, Pulaski, Shelbyvillc, Columbia, Vernon and Reynoldsburg on the Tennessee and its waters. Montgomery, Monroe, Sparla, Carthage, Gallatin, Lebanon, M'Miimville, Jeilorson, Franklin, Ilaysborough, Charlotte, Springfield, Clarksvillc ou the Cumberland and its waters. One of the most terrible storms recorded in the annals of our country, occurred in May, 1830, in a district of which Carthage and Shelbyville, were Uie centre. It was a mingled tempest of wind, thunder, lightning and rain. Trees, houses, and every thing on the surface were prostrated. Five persons Avere killed, and many woundtal; and property deslroyod to the value of 80,000 dollars. Menifdiit) octupics the former site of Fort Pickering, it stands ou one of the noblest blutls of the Mississippi, .* i^^ 340 TENNESSEE. proudly clovatcd above that river, and ilH lino opiiosito bottoms. A beautiful rolling country surrounds it in the rear. A remnant of the tribe of the Chickasaws resides near it. The original inhabitants of this village were chiefly of mixed blood. Since it has taken such an imposing name it has made considerable progress, and from its intermediate position be- tween the upper and lower country, and from its being the point of general traverse froA.4 Tennessee to the vast regions on the Arkansas, Washita, and Red River, there can be no doubt, that it will ultimately become a considerable place. It is one of the places on the Mississippi, wliicli passing steam boats generally honor with the discharge of their cannon, as they ascend the river by it. At no great distance back of this town, is Nashoba, the seat of the grand experiment of Miss Frances Wright, in her attempts to educate and emancipate slaves. Natural Curiosities. This would easily swell to a copious nrticlc. We have already touched on the singular configuration of the lime stone substrata of this country, from which it results, that there are numberless extensive cavities in the earth. Some have supposed that these hollows are extended under the greater part of the surface of the state. Springs, and even considerable streams of water flow in them, and have subterran- eous courses. Caves have been explored at g.eat depths for an extent of ten miles They abound in singular chambers, prodigious vaulted apart- ments, and many of them, when faintly illumined with the torches of the visitants, have a gloomy grandeur, which no description could reaoli. The bones of animals, and in some instances, human skeletons have been found in them. The earth of these caves is impregnated strongly with nitrate of lime, from which any quantity of gun powder might be made. On some spurs of the Cumberland Mountains, called the Enchanted Mountains, are marked in the solid limestone, footsteps of men, horses, and other animals, as fresh as though recently made, and as distinct as though impressed upon clay mortar. The tracts often indicate, that tlie feet which made them, had slidden, as would be the case in descending declivities in soft clay. They are precisely of the same class with the impress of two human feet found in a block of solid limestone, quarrietl at St. Louis on the margin of the Mississippi. The manner in which they were produced is entirely inexplicable. Tennessee is abundant in petrifactions and organic remains. Near the southern boundary of the state are three trees entirely petrified. One is a cypress, four feet in diameter. The other is a sycamore, and tlie third is a hickory. They were brought to light by the falling in of the south bank of the Tennessee. A nest of eggs of the wild turkey were dug up in a state of petrifaction. Prodigious claws, teeth, and other bones of animals are found near the salines. A tooth was recently in tlie posses^ # TENNESH££. ail catc, that tiie sion of Jeremiah Brown, fis«|. which Judge IIiiywoo«i affirms, measured a number of feet in length, and at the insertion of the juv/ was eight inehcs broiid. At a sulphur spring 12 miles from Keynoldsburffh, was found a tusk of such enormous dimensions, as that it was supposed to weigh from 1 to 200 pounds. It is shiring, yellow, and perfectly retains the original conformation. Near it were found other bones, supposed to belong to the same huge animal. It is calculated, from th( ippearance and size of the bones, that the animal, when living, must have been 20 feet high. Lots and coal, both pit and charcoal arc often dug up in this state, at depths from ()0 to 100 feet below the surface. Jugs, vases, and idols of moulded clay have been found in so many places, as hardly to be deemed curiosities. Walls of faced stone, and even walled wells have been found ill so many places, and under such circumstances, and at such depths, as to preclude the idea of their having been made by the whiles of the present day, or the past generation. In this state, as well as in Missouri, burying grounds have been found, where the skeletons seem all to have been pigmies. The graves in which the bodies were deposited, are sel- dom more than two feet, or two feet and a half in length. To obviate the objection, that these are all bodies of children, it is affirmed that these skulls are found to possess the denies sapicntioB and must have be- longed to persons of mature age. There are many beautiful cascades in Tennessee. One of the most strik- ing is that, known by the name of the ^falling water.'' The cascade is 8 miles above its junction with the Caney Fork, and nearly 50 from Car- thage. For some distance above, the river is a continual cataract, having fallen, in a little distance, 150 feet. The 'fall,' or perpendicular leap, is 200 feet, or as some measure it, 150 feet. The width of the sheet is 80 feet, and tlie noise is deafening. Taylor's Creek fall is somewhat greater than this. It is differently estimated from 200 to 250. The descent to the foot of the rock is difficult and dangerous ; but the grandeur of the spectacle richly compensates the hazard. The spectator finds himself almost shut out from the view of the sky, by an overhanging cliff, between 3 and 400 feet high. The stream before him, falling from the last rock in sheets of foam, almost deafens him with the noise. A considerable breeze is created by the fall, and the mist is driven from the falling spray like rain. Twenty yards below this, on the south side, is the most beautiful cascade of which the imagination can conceive. A creek six or eight feet wide, falls from the summit of an overhanging rock, a distance of at least 300 feet. The water, in its descent, is divided into a thousand little streams, which arc often driven by the wind, in sliowcrs of rain, for a number of yards distance. u 342 TKNNKSSEI!. MiicJi (liscnssion lias rnsncd, ami iniicli iisoloss Icixniiii<^ been llirown away, touching sumc silver ;iiid <'(»|)])ci"<'(iiiis, found some years since, ufii little distance below the surface, near Fayetteville, in this state. One of the silver coins jmrports to beef Anlonius and the other of Coniniodi/s. The onrth under which the copper coins were found, was covered witli trees, which could not be less than dOO years old. There can be nodoiibi that such coins were found; and there seems sonic difliculty in supposing them to have been deposited, merely to play up:)n the credulity of sonin virtuoso. But, as such deceptions have been known to be practised, in some instances, wcolfer it as a possible solution. The paintings, that are found on some high, and apparently inaccessiMc rocks, in this state, have been mentioned as curiosities, ever since it li;is l)ccn visited by white men. The figures are of the sun, moon, animals, and serpents; and arc out of question the work of former races of men. The colors arc presented as fresh as though recently done, and the delin- eations in some instances are vivid and ingenious. A curious appearance, so common to the people of the country, as no longer to strike them with wonder, is the immensely deep channels, in which many of the streams of this country run. Descending many of them, that are large enough to be boatable, the astonished voyager l(H)ks up, and sees himself borne along a river running at the base of perpen- dicular lime stone walls, sometimes 3 or 400 feet high. The view is still more grand and surprising, when the spectator looks down from above, and sees the dark waters rolling at such prodigious depths below him, inn regular excavation, that seems to have been hewn from the solid lime- stone, on purpose to receive the river. " ' ' Constitution. This has no essential difference of feature from that of the other western states. In the legislature the number of representatives bears a given proportion to the number of taxable inhabitants, and tlic number of senators must never be more than onc-half,or less than one-tliiid of the number of representatives. To be cligililc, as members of either house, the person must have resided three years in the state, and one in the county; and be possessed of 200 acres of land. The governor is elected for two years, and is eligible six years out of eight. He must be 25 ynus of age; must have resided in the state four years, and must possess 500 acres of land, to be eligible to that office. The judiciary is divided into courts of law and equity. The legislature appoints the judges, to hold their office during good behaviour. All free men 21 years of age, and who have resided in the county six months [ireceding the election, ih^sscss the elective franchise. Schools. There are four institutions in the state, which bear the name of colleges; one at IVashvilic, one at Knoxviile, one at Murysville, and Krenicr Coligo, since ciiangod to the nunio of .lolli^rson 'J'he Cumbci- TRNNEfiSER. '.m hiiul Picsbytorianfl rvro makiiif^ great olliorls to roar a Ihcoloiiiral institu- tion, m which to train young men for thoir worship. Thn college nt Nashville has already yielded most cfl'iriont aid to thn literature of the state. Academies and common sc-hools arc increasing, and the people seem to lie awakening to a sense of the importance of education to the preservation of our Fepul)lican institutions. History. Tennessee asserts cliilms, along with Kentucky, to he the coinmon mother of the western states. She fills a largo and conspicuous r)lacc in the early annals of the West. No state sulfercd more terribly in its commencement, from the savages. None evinced a deeper stake in the early altercations with Spain, touching the right of navigating the Mississippi. Her fierce disputes with the mother state, North Carolina, and the intestine broils, which gave origin to the short lived republic of Frankland, while she made arrangements to become an independent state, have already been recorded. She has already sent abroad thousands of her sons, to people the states of Missouri, Illinois, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Florida, Arkansas, and even Texas in the Mexican country. Yet the census of 1830 has presented her in the commanding attitude of numbering nearly 700,000 inhabitants, being the second most populous of the western states. This result creates the more surprize, in as much as every one conversant with the states and territories beyond, knows how largely emigrants from this state have contributed to their settlement; and as this is the only one of the slave states which has shown an increase commensurate with the free states. " • The legislature of tliis state has evinced a spirit of munificence and enterprize, in regard to literature and public institutions highly creditable. It has recently appropriated 25,000 dollars for the erection of a peniten- tiary, and 150,000 dollars for internal improvements. It deems, that by an easy improvement of the navigation of the Tennessee and Holston rivers, the state will save 150,000 dollars annually, in the transport of the single article of salt. Tennessee has availed herself of her influence of seniority and impor- tance in the west, by leaving a respectable impress of her character on the states and territories beyond her. No state shared a prouder part in tlie late war. She has already given a President to the Union. Her march since she became a state, has been almost uniformly patriotic and prosper- ous, and she has already attained to a liigh relative rank in the general confederacy. ! t r •^' • 1^^ . KENTUCKY. « Mrdial length, 400 miles. Medial breadth, 150 miles; contains 40,000 square miles. Bounded north by the river Ohio, which separates it from Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois; cast by Virginia; soutli by Tennessee; and west by the Mississippi, which separates it from Missouri. it,-^ CIVIL DIVISIONS. , Counties. County Towns. Distances from Frankj Adair, Columbia, 91 miles. Allen, Scottsville, 151 Anderson, •m Lawrenceburgh, 12 Barren, Glasgow, 126 Bath, ;■ Owingsville, 73 Boone, Burlington, 72 Bourbon, Paris, 43 Bracken, , Augusta, 73 Brackenridge, Ilardinsburgh, 118 Bullitt, SheiJierdsville, 74 Butler, Morgantown, 141 Caldwell, Princeton, n 229 Callaway, ' Wadesboro', 262 Campbell, Newport, ' ' 99 . Casey, Liberty, 66 Christian, Hopkinsville, 206 Clark, Winchester, 45 Clay, Manchester, 115 Cumberland, Burkesville, 119 Daviess, Owensboro', 150 Edmonson, Brownsville, 138 Estill, Irvine, 71 Fayette, Fleming, Floyd, Franklin, Gallatin, Garrard, Grant, Graves, Grayson, Greene, Greenup, Hancock, Hardin, Harland, Harrison, Hart, Henderson, Henry, Hickman, Hopkins, JeiTerson, Jessamine , Knox, Laurel, Lawrence, Lewis , Lincoln, Livingston, Logan, McCracken, Madison, Mason, Mead Mercer, Monroe, Montgomery, Morgan, Muhlenburgh, Nelson, Nicholas, f^ KENTUCKY. Lexingtdn, Fiemingburgh, Prestonburgh, Frankfort, Port William, Lancaster, Williamstown, Mayfield, Litchfield, Greensburgh, Greenup C. H. Hawsville, Elizabethtown, Harlan C. H. Cynthiana, Munfordsville, Henderson, Newcastle, Clinton, Madison ville, Louisville, Nicholasville, Barboursville C. Hazel Patch, Louisa, Clarksburgh, Stanford, ., Salem, Russellville, Wilmington, Richmond, Washington, Brandenburgh , Harrodsburgh, Tompkinsville, Mount Sterling, West Liberty, Greenville C. H. Bardstowh, Carlisle, 845 m H. 25 79 142 f^ % 57 r ■ 52 • 44 284 ,,^ 110 90 132 >, m 130 --*- 80 168 38 105 180 37 308 200 . 52 37 , 122 102 127 96 ^ • 1 * ' 51 '' -' 245 171 289 50 63 90 30 144 60 107 177 65 6S M 44 f 346 ♦^ * JiliNTl/C'KY. Ohio: <* Ilnrtfurd, 154 Oldham, WcHtport , 44 Owen, Owenton , 28 Pendleton, Falmouth, «0 Perry, Perry C. H. 14ft Pike, Piketon, 105 Pulaski, Somerset, N5 RockOuHlle, Mount Vernon, T.i Russell, Jamestown, i(M» Scott, Cicorgctown, 17 Shelby, Shelbyville, iil Simpson, PVunklin, 165 Spencer, Taylorsville, 35 Todd, Elk ton. 18« Trigg, Cadiz, 2i»(> Union, Morganfield, •^05 Warren, Bowling Green, 145 Washington, Springfield, 50 Wayne, Monticello, no Whitety, Whitely C. H. 130 Woodford, Versailles, • 13 The census of 1830 gives the population of this state as follows.- Whites, 518,678; Slaves, 165,350. Total, 688,841. From the eastern limit of this state, where it bounds on Virginia, to the month of the Ohio, is between 6 and 700 miles. In this whole distance, the northern limit of the state is on the Ohio. Thence it bounds on the Mississippi between 40 and 50 miles. Almost the whole of the state, therefore, in its configuration, belongs to the valley of the Ohio. The eastern and southern front of the state touches upon the Alleghany mountains, whose spurs descend, for a considerable distance, into it.— Beyond the lower part of the valley of the Tennessee, the Kentucky shore slopes to the Mississippi. The rivers Tennessee, Cumberland, and Kentucky have broad and deep vallies. The valley of Green River, and that in the central parts of the state are noted for their extent, beauty, and fertility. But, though Kentucky has been generally estimated to possess larger bodies of fertile land, than any other western state, and although nothing can exceed the beauty of the great valley, of which Lexington is the centre, yet there are in Kentucky large sterile tracts, and much land too mountainous, or too poor for cultivation. The centre of the state is delightfully rolling. A tract of country, nearly 100 miles in one direction and 50 in the other, is found here, which for beauty of '^^ KENTITf.KY, mce, into it.— surface, amenity of IfmilMcnpt, tli« jlelijfhtful nm)ect of lis open j^roveu, ;iii(l llio oxtniiiM! fertility of it.^ suil, cxco i*. 348 KBMTVCKY. and Cumberland rivers is a still larger tract of 'barrens.' Spread over this district is an immense number of knobs, covered with shrubby and post oaks. In the year 1800, the legislature made a gratuitous grant of 400 acres of this land to every man, who chose to become an actual settler. A great many occupants were found on these conditions. The country proved to be uncommonly healthy. So much of the land was incaiable of clearing and cultivation from a variety of causes, that the range will probably remain unimpaired for a long time. Game abounds. Swine are raised with the greatest ease. Enough land is capable of cultivation, to supply all the needs of the settlers. Many farmers on this soil make fine tobacco. These lands have come into reputation ; and they who received their farms as a free gift, are now living comfortably and rearing respectable families in rustic independence. For variety of hill and dale, for the excellence of the soil, yielding in abundance, all that is necessary for comfortable subsistence, for amenity of landscape, beauty of forest, the number of clear streams and fine rivers, health, and the finest developement of the human form, and patri- archial simplicity of rural opulence, we question if any country can be found surpassing Kentucky. We have heard the hoary *residenters,' the compatriots of Daniel Boone, speak of it as it appeared to them, when they first emigrated from their native Virginia and North Carolina. It was in the spring when they arrived. The only paths among the beautiful groves, were those which the bufialoes and bears had broken through the cane brakes. The wilderness displayed one extended tuft of blossoms. A man stationed near one of these paths, could kill game enough, with a proportion of turkeys and other large birds, in an hour, to supply the wants of a month. There can be no wonder that hunters, men who had been reared among the comparatively sieile hills of Virginia and North Carolina, men who loved to range mountain streams, and sheltered glades, should have fancied this a terrestrial paradise. The beautiful configuration of the soil remains The whole state is studded with plantations. The buffaloes, bears, Indians, and the cane brake, the wild, and much of the naturally beautiful of the country is no more. The aged settlers look back to the period of this first settlement as a golden age. To them the earth seems to have been cursed with natural and moral degeneracy, deformity and sterility, in consequence of having been settled. This is one of the solutions to account for that restless desire to leave the settled country, and to emigrate to new regions, which so strongly marks many of the old settlers. Rivers. The Ohio washes a long extent of the northern frontier; and the Mississippi a considerable distance of the south-western shore. The f M* •t?' KENTUCKY. 349 former river we propose to describe under the head of the state of Ohio; and the latter has already been described. Most of the rivers of this state rise in its southern limits, and flow northwardly into the Ohio. The state '^' •! may be considered as one vast plateau, or glacis, sloping from the Alle- ghany hills to the Ohio. Big Sandy rises in the Alleghany Mountains near the heads of Cum- berland and Clinch, and forms the eastern boundary of the state for nearly 200 miles. Forty miles before its entrance into the Ohio, it ^ divides into two branches, the North-East and the South Forks. It is navigable to the Ouascioto Mountains. At its entrance into the Ohio it is 200 yards broad. In its progress it receives a great number of large creeks, among which are Shelby, Bear, Turtle, Bartle's, Paint and Blane's, all of which run east, or north-east. Between Sandy and Licking the following creeks and streams enter the Ohio, being from 20 to 70 miles long, and from 50 to 12 yards wide at their mouth. Little Sandy enters 22 miles below Big Sandy ; and the following creeks enter the Ohio at moderate distances, not exceeding 22, and not falling short of 2 or 3 miles from each other ; viz : Tiget's Creek, Conoconeque, Salt Lick Creek, Sycamore, Crooked Creek, Cabin Creek, Brook Creek, Lime Stone, and Bracken. Licking River rises in the north-east corner of the state almost inter- locking with the head waters of Cumberland River. It seeks the Ohio by a north-western course ; and meets it at Newport, opposite Cincinnati. It has a sinuous course of 200 miles. In dry summers the water almost disappears from the channel. When the streams are full, in the winter and spring many flat boats descend it from a distance of 70 or 80 miles from its mouth. It waters a rich and well settled country. Kentucky is an important stream, and gives name to the state. It rises in the south-east parts of it, interlocking with the head waters of Licking and Cumberland. By a north-west course, it finds the Ohio at Port WiUiam, 77 miles above Louisville. It is 150 yards wide at its mouth, and navigable 150 miles. It has a rapid current, and high banks. Great part of its length it flows in a deep chasm, cut from perpendicular banks of lime stone. Nothing can be more singular than the sensation arising from floating down this stream and looking up this high parapet at the sun and the sky from this dark chasm. Elkhorn, a beautiful stream that enters Kentucky River ten miles below Frankfort, has two forks. The first heads near Lexington, and the second near Georgetown. These branches water Scott and Fayette counties, and are well calculated for driving mills of all kinds. Dick's River is a branch of Kentucky. It has a course of 50 miles, and is 50 yards wide at its mouth. Its current, like that of the parent stream, is rapid; and its course confined by preci- ! I %. 350 KENTUCKY. i^. pices of lime stone, down which the astonished spectator looks often 300 feet, before the eye catches the dark stream rolling below. Salt River rises in Mercer county from three head sources, and enters the Ohio 20 miles below Louisville. It is boatable 150 miles, and is 150 yards wide at its mouth. It passes through Jefferson, Greenup, Washington, and Mercer counties* Green River rises in Lincoln county. It enters the Ohio, 200 miles below Louisville, 50 miles above the mouth of Cumberland. It is boat- able 200 miles, and 200 yards wide at its mouth. It receives, in its progress, a great number of tributaries, among which are Great Barren, Little Barren, Rough River, and Panther's Creek. It is one of the most important rivers in the state, and has a great length of boatable water. Cumberland river rises in the south-east corner of this state, interlock- ing with the south fork of Big Sandy. We have already partially described this river; but as it belongs as much to this state, as Tennessee, we add that it runs eighty miles in this state; then crosses into Tennessee; runs forty miles in that state; and makes a curve, by which it returns into this state again. It once more enters that state, after a course of fifty miles in tliis. It winds 200 miles through Tennessee; passes by Nashville, and once more enters this state. It unites with the Ohio by a mouth 300 yards in width; and is navigable by steam boats of the first class to Nashville; and by keel boats, in moderate stages of the water, 300 miles farther. It is a broad, deep, and beautiful river, and uncom- monly favorable to navigation. Trade Water, and Red River are its prin- cipal branches, in Kentucky. The one is 70, and the other 50 yards wide at its mouth. The Tennessee, of which we have already given a description, enters the Ohio in this state; and runs in it seventy-five miles. Kaskinompas River rises near the Tennessee, and running a western course, enters the Mississippi, half w?iy between the mouth of Ohio and New Madrid. Minerals and Mineral Waters. The state is all of secondary formation. Lime stone and marble, of the most beautiful species, abound. Coal appears in some places, especially along the Ohio. Iron ore is in the greatest abundance; and is wrought to a considerable extent. Lead, and copperas, and aluminous earths are found. There are a number of salt springs in the state, from which great quantities of salt used to be made. But salt is made so much cheaper, and more abundant- ly at the Kenhawa works, that this state imports chiefly from that place. In Cumberland county, in boring for salt water, at the depth of 180 feet a fountain of Petroleum, or what is there called mineral oil, was struck. When the auger was withdrawn, the oil was thrown up in a continued stream more than twelve feet above the surface of the carlli. ,'*• )oks often 300 Salt River rs the Ohio 5>0 50 yards wide shington, and io, 200 miles It is boat- ^ceives, in its Great Barren, le of the most ble water, ite, interlock- ally described essee, we add inesseej runs returns into ;ourse of fifty e; passes by the Ohio by s of the first jf the water, , and uncom- 2r are its prin- ther 50 yards •eady given a ity-five miles. ig a western uth of Ohio f secondary iful species, Ohio. Iroji rable extent, rhere are a ities of salt re abundant- lliat place, pth of 180 sral oil, was wn up in a :)f the earfli. KENTUCKV. 351 Although the quantity somewhat abated, after the discharge of the first few minutes, during which it was supposed to emit 75 gallons a minute, it still continued to flow in a stream, that made its way to the Cumberland, for a long distance covering the surface with its oily pellicle. It is so penetrating, as to be difficult to confine in any wooden vessel. It ignites f(^ly, produces a flame as brilliant as gas light, for which it might become a cheap and abundant sjibstitute. The Olympian Springs, 47 mil s east of Lexington, are in a romantic situation. They consist of a number of springs of different medicinal qualities, partly sulphureous, and partly chalybeate, and are a place of great resort. Big Bone Lick is 20 miles below Cincinnati on the Kentucky side of the river, and not far from it. The waters are impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, and have a peculiarly favourable effect, in dropsical cases, and affections of the liver. The huge organic remains of animals, called by the name mammoth, were found in great numbers in digging near this lick. There are great numbers of mineral springs, of diflferent qualities in different parts of the state. But the medicinal spring, which is far the most frequented of any, is that near Harrodsburg. The water has a slight sweetish and styptic taste. It contains sulphate of magnesia, and other mineral impregnations. There are fine accom- modatio'^s for invalids. The situation is healthy and delightful; and in the summer it has become a great and fashionable resort for invalids from this and the neighboring states. The waters are salutary in affections of the liver, and dyspeptic and chronic complaints; and this is, probably, one of the few springs where the waters are really a salutary and efficient remedy for the cases, to which they are suited. Agriculture and Produce, Kentucky, from her first settlement, has had the reputation of being among the most fertile of the western states The astonishing productiveness of her good lands, the extent of her cul- tivation, the multitude of flat boats, which she loads for New Orleans' market, and the great quantities of produce, which she now sends off" by steam boats justify the conclusion. All the grains, pulses and fruits, of the temperate climates, she raises in the greatest abundance. Her wheat is of the finest kind ; and there is no part of the western country where maize is raised with greater ease and abundance. Garden vegetables of all kinds succeed. Grapes, of the cultivated kinds, are raised for table fruit, in many places ; and there are considerable numbers of vineyards, where wine is made. Cotton is not raised, except for domestic use. Hemp and tobacco are the staples of the state. Botli are raised in the greatest perfection. In 1820, the number of pei-sons employed in agri- cnUnro. wns l'^'?,«0 nnd of ?naT)uf:t(Mi.irc>. ]10,'/79; and of persons t. I •4 I s ^■^ ^^ \ i 352 KENTUCKY* employed in commerce, 1,607. The products of agriculture and man- ufactures have since increased nearly in the ratio of the increasing popu- lation. t^ The present exports are chiefly to New Orleans; though a considerable quantity of produce and manufactures ascends the Ohio to Pittsburgh. It is not uncommon for the growers of the produce of this state, on arriving at New Orleans, to ship, on their own account, to the Atlantic Slates, to Vera Cruz, and the West Indies. Besides the articles men- tioned above, she sends off immense quantities of flour, lard, butter, cheese, pork, beef, Indian corn and meal, whiskey, cider, cider royal, fruit, - both fresh and dried, and various kinds of domestic manufactures. Horses are raised in great numbers, and of the noblest kmds. A handsome horse is the highest pride of a Kentuckian, and common farmers own from ten to fifty. Great numbers are carried over the moiintains to the Atlantic states; and the principal supply of saddle and carriage horses in the lower country is drawn from Kentucky, or the other ; western states. The horses are carried down in flat boats. Great droves of cattle are also driven from this state, over the mountains, to Virginia ^4 and Pennsylvania. In 1828 the value of the cattle, horses, and swine, driven out of the state, numbered and valued at one point of passage, the Cumberland Ford, was a million dollars. The returns of the value of exports, agri- cultural and manufactured, in 1829, wanted a number of counties of comprising the whole state; but this partial return gave 2,780,000 dollara. Chief Torens. Frankfort, the political metropolis of the state, is sit- uated on the north bank of the Kentucky, 60 miles above its entrance ** into the Ohio. The environs of the beautiful plain, on which the town is built, are remarkable for their romantic and splendid scenery. The river divides the town into Frankfort and South Frankfort, which are connected by a bridge across the Kentucky, which here flows between banks 4 or 500 feet in height. Both divisions contain about 2,000 in- habitants. The State House is entirely of marble, with a front presenting a portico supported by Ionic columns, the whole having an aspect of magnificence. It contains the customary legislative halls, and apart- ments for the Court of Appeals, and the Federal Court. The stair way under the vault of the dome has been much admired. The penitentiary usually contains over 100 convicts, and is one of the few establishments of the kind in the United States the income from which exceeds the ex- penses. Its other public buildings are three churches, an academy, and county Court House. It has a number of respectable manufacturing KENTUCKY. 353 establislimonts, among which arc three manufactories of cotton bagging, a rope walk, a cotton factory, two large warehouses, and the usual number of corresponding cstablisliments. It is at the head of steam boat navi- tralion, having three or four steam boats in regular employ, when the stafre of water in the river admits; and is a place of considerable com- mercial enterprize. The public inns are on a respectable footing; and it is a place of much show and gaiety. The houses in particular arc singu- larly neat, many of them being built of the beautiful marble furnished by the baulks of the river. Sea vessels have been built here, and floated to New Orleans. It is situated 212 miles from Nashville; 800 from New Oilcans; ^0 north-west from Lexington; 149 from Indianopolis ; 252 from Viindalia; 550 from Washington; 321 from St. Louis; and 85 from Cin- cinnati . Lexington, the commercial capital of the state, and one of its most ancient towns, received its name from some hunters, who were encamped inidcr ll)c shade of the original forest, where it is built, and who, receiv- ing the first intelligence of Lexington battle in Massachusetts, named the town after that, where commenced the great struggle of American inde- pendence. It was for a long time the political' metropolis of the state, and iJie most important town in the West. Transylvania University has fair claims to precedence among western collegiate institutions. Its chief edifice was burnt two years since, but is now rci)lacod by a handsome and more commodious one. It has twelve |)rofcssors and tutors, and in the academical, medical, and law classes, JJ715 students. The buildings for the medical department are large and commodious; and its library contains 4,500 volumes of standard works in medicine. All the libraries connected with the University number 14,100 volumes. The law school has 25 pupils; and the medical class 211, from all the southern and western states. The reputation of its profes- sors has given it a deservedly high standing. The Rev. Mr. Peers is at the head of a school gaining great reputation, as being the only one known in the United States, the pupils of which are professedly guided in their whole discipline, with reference to tlie physical, organic and moral laws of our being. The Female Academy, under the care of Rev. Mr. Woods is in high repute, and has 100 pupils. There are various other schools which concur with these to vindicate the high literary estimation of this city. The other public edifices are as follows: a handsome and spacious Court House, a large Masonic Hall, and elc^ven churches, in which all the denominations of Christianity are represcJited. The State Lunatic Asylum is a spacious and very commodious building, containing, on an average, 90 deranged patients, under the guidance and eflicient care of ■Vf 1i !i!' 3&1 klJN'l'lUlUV. I>iiy.sicianH, siir^'uoiiH, :iii«l iuiihi'h. TIk! (Jiiilud SluUts Umucli Hank Ikim ii lar^ro biiiikiii^r liuusu, in wliiili l)iistiu!.ss in llu.> way i>l' disrouiit and lut^roiiation of liills, is aiiiiiially h-aiisa«-k>(l Id llio amount of ,*;^'1,'<0(I,()0(). The diiol' niunufacfurcs arc llioso of roll»)n liaj,rarUcidarly Nak; ro|»c. Ol" ili(< I'ornirr vvt^ro nianul'.uUnod in 1830, l,(HKMMH)yards; und of llu: killer :lVU)(),()00 pouuds. Tiioro nro (lirou factories for s|>innin<^' and \veaviu<^r wool, and live or six for i-.olton- and uno lur^'u and sovinal uinuller niacliinc-niukin^r fuctorics. In t|,^ woollen faetoriet) arc nianidaclnrrd haudsonii; carjurls. Tho town buiklin^s in ^roncral arc liandsonic, and Mtniu are niairnificuiu. Fow towns in tluj West, or olst!wliere,aro more deli, and llie town wears an air of neatness, opulence, and repose, indicalin;j[ k;isure and studiousness, rather than Ihe hnslle of business and conunerccr. Ji is situated in the centre of a proverbially ricii and beautiful country. 'J'im frequency of handsome villas and ornamented rural mansions, imparl tlio impression of vicinity to an opulent meli»»polis. A beautiful branch of the Elkhorn runs throu<^h Ihecily, and supplies it wilh water. The main street is a mile and a (|uar(er in leii<^r||i, and St) feel wide; well paved, and the principal roads leadin;ir frou) it to Ihe country are McAdami/ud to some distance. In the centre of Ihe town is Ihe public s(|uare, sin- roiuided by handsome building's. In this stpiare is the market hou.sc, which is amply supplied with all the producls of Ihe slate. The inhabit- ants arc cheertul, intelli^'eul, conversable, and noted for iheir hospitality to strangers. The professional men are ilislin^niished lor their attaia- menls in their several walks, and many distinguished and eminent nioa have had their origin here. The University with its professors and stu- dents, and the numerous distinguished strangers tJiat are visiting here, during the summer months, add to the at tractions of thccity. The people arc addicted to giving parties; and Ihe tone of society is fashionable and [deasant. Strangers, in general, are nuich pleased with a temjiorary sojourn in this city, which conveys high ideas of the rclinerncut aiidlaslo of the country. 'J'here arc now much larger towns in Ihe West; but none presenting more beauty and intelligence. The stranger, on ilnding himself in the midst of its pulished and interesting society, cannot but be carried back by the strong cimtrast to Ihe time, when the patriarchial hunters of Kentucky, reclining on their bulfaloe robes around their even- ing fires, canopied by the lolly trees and the stars, gave it the name it l)ears, by patriotic acclamation. The ninnber of iidiabitanls is li,ltM. It is situated *i5 miles south-east of Frankfort; '257 north-east from Nashville; 80 south from Cincinnati; and 520 .south-west from Washini'ton. - - A , KnNTrrKY. 3f»r. l.oiiiRvillo, nt tlio fills of (Ik^ Ohio, in u romincrcjiil point of view, is f;irl!i<' ino^** imporlJint town in tlio slnlf*. Tli" iiniii Hlirct is nonrly » niil«* inl('iii,'tli,!inil isnHii(»l>l(\:isr<)n)jmc.t,!m lliroo pritM'.ip!iI slnnitsriin p:inllt'l willi tlic river, and ctimiriand lino virws ol" llm villiiffrs nnfirio»ifl odifico, HO foot by 40, nnd two Imardinp; ImiiPca. ft has an avornijc of l.'J7 sttulcnff. Tim villiiijo in ploasnnf niid imcommonly hcnllliy. Tho president 1ms drsorvod rn[)ufn- lioii,nnd this inafifiition promisrs prcat utility lothocommiiiiity. Newport, o]>p(!sifo to rinoinnati, is tho county town for CamplKll cotinty, nnd is sitiiatrd at tho month of Lickinfj. It has a rJiarmiinf prospect of Cincinnati, and the snrronndin<^ cojintry, and from tlmt town, seems a pleasure ground dotted with houses. Few places can sliow more plcasinrf scenery. It has a spacious arsenal, containing arms, and munitions of war for tho United States, and some other puhlic l)uil(lin<,'>', jail, market house, post oflicc, school house, and nn academy. Ba0 private houses. It is IHO miles srjuth-west from Frankfort, and thirty-five south of Louisville. It is in the vicinity of the extensive prairies and barrens, ^^ KENTI/CKV. 8611 that a|)|>oiir in tlii:^ liurl of tho country. Hull licks alMXind uuur the town. Many oi' tlio iul|iic.oiit prairies arc ol" <»rt;:H l)canly. 'I'liiMi! are (orty or fifty inure cuiisitliiiiiWIt) villii^nis in this Htate, all iiulii'aled in llie tai)iilar view of llu; comity towns of this state. It would |)t' 1)111 tiresome lepelition to destrihu llieiii with any (le;,freo of particularity. Tlie names of the priMci[Hil ones follow, together with the rivers on which tiicy are situated. Catletshurg, at the outlet of Bi^' Sandy. Clarkshur^, itii tlie Ohio, furty-ei;,'ht miles helow Callctshur^'. Yellow Banks, Henderson, Morganfield, and Smithland, arc on tho Ohio, heluw Louis- villc. 'I'lio liist named town is at the mouth of Cumherland River. Columbia is on the south hank of the Mississippi, eleven miles below tho luoiilh of the Ohio. Prestonbury is on the west brunch of Bi;? Sundy, near the Cumherland mountains. Tho following' towns arc on Liekiii«^: Ulynii>ian Sprinys, Mount titcrlini,', Millcrsburg, Maryavillc, and Fal- mouth. On the Kentucky and its waters, besides those already enuiiierated, are Mount Vernon, Stamford, Lancaster, lliclunond, Winchester, Nicliolasville, llarrodshurg and Laurenshuifj. On Salt River and itd waters, are S|)ring(iehl, Bealsburg, Shelhyvillc, Middlctown, and Shep- herdsvillc. Bardstown is an iin|)ortant village, with a beautiful view of adjacent hills, and mountains. On Green River and its waters, arc Cascyvillc, Columbia, Greenshurg, Summersvillc, Monroe, Glasgow, Scottsville, Bowling Green, Mnrgantown, Litchfield Ilardensburg, Hartford, Greenville, and Madisonville. On Cumberland Riv^r, Bar- hoursvillc, Burkville, Ilopkinsville, Princeton, and Ccntrevillo. Some of these villages have churches. Sonic of them are county towns; and in a country, where the whole scene is shifting under the eye of the beholder; some of them, no doubt, arc more important, than sonic of those, which wc have particularly noticed in descrii)tion. Other villages may have Ijccomc important, that have not yet been described; and there arc villages deemed of consequence, at least, in their imnicdiate vicinity, which are not hero named. Education. Beside the colloi^i;iate institutions already mentioned, there is Georgetown College, a Baptist S(!iiiin;iry recently commenced at Georgetown, and Cumberland College at Priiicctown. This is an insti- tution for the Cumberland Presbyterians; the students, on an average, are \2{). It is respectable for its library and endowments, anil adopts the manual labor system. Centre College at Uanville, is uniler the care of the Presbyterian church. Its buildings and endowments, are alreaily ample, and are increasing. It promises to become an important inslilution. In tho pleasant village of Bardstown, is a highly resiHiclablc Catholic Seminary, being the most importuni one which thai church possesses in the western country. One object of this inbtitution is to huvc theological ,1 360 KENTirCKV. Btuflents for tlio Catliolic ministry. In tho collc^'o nnd llicolo^Mcal hcIkk,! are 230 students. A number of persons of both soxos, nnd the ilillcrint religious orders of that churrb, reside; licro, and are devoted to tciuliin.r and nets of chiirity. There arc other seminaries, tho names and positions of which wcliuvo not been able to obtain. Hut wo give instead a nu st important dnciinienf, touching the state of jj[cncrai education in Kentucky. We rcjjrct that it is tho only one fiirnisliol by tho census of 1S3(), of sullicient accuracy and universaHty to (pialify it for admission tf) this work. It may stand in some degree, ns a sample of the condition of general education in the states, where free schools are not yet adopted. The system has one obvious advantage over that of New England. The teachers, f(jr the most part, are trained to their jjrofession, and consider it not un incidental but a perpetual pursuit. They ac(piire an experience, tident of govcriunciit, and power of self possession, which cannot be expected from those wiio adopt tho profession only vi? an expedient, and for a season. It dillbrs in another respect from that of New-England. There tho greater nunihcr of pupils attend school in winter; and here in the summer. Nama of County. Number Children No. in cii > Numlicr Avcrngc Population of each of at lietwee not nt size of County. BchoolB. School. 2!'2 5 and IS 1820 School. 1528 Sdioolo. 22 Adair, 13 Allen, 12 2^6 1642 1356 24 Anderson, 9 302 946 611 38 Barren, 24 (J44 3222 2578 27 Bath, If) 453 2002 1549 30 Boone, 19 599 1955 1356 31 Bourbon, 48 1246 3019 1773 26 Bracken, 12 325 1587 12(52 27 Brackenridge, 16 400 1715 1315 25 Bullitt, Butler, 7 1.58 768 610 22 Calloway, 11 215 1382 1137 Campbell, 17 . Religion. The prevailing denominations are baptists, presbyterians, metli (;)dists,Cunnberland presbyterians and seceders. The people manifest their excitable and ardent character upon this as upon all other subjects. Tjiev have an insatiable curiosity to hear new preachers, and an extreme eancr* ness for novelty. Religious excitements are common, and carried to the highest point of emotion. Religion, in some form, seems to be generally respected; and there is scarcely a village, or a populous settlement in the state, that has not one, or more, favorite preachers. It would be difll-ult to say, which is the predominant denomination, that of the baptists, meth- odists,or presbyterians. But notwithstanding the marked enthusiasm of the character of this people, notwithstanding they are much addicted to bitter political disputation, notwithstanding all the collisions from op- posing parties and clans, as a state, the people have uniformly distinguish- ed themselves for religious order, quiet and tolerance. Constitution, Governmei:f. 6fc. The iej^islative power is divided as usual. The senators are elected for four years and the representatives for one. A person to be eligible as a senator, must be thirty-five years of age, a citizen of the United States, must have reside '. six years in Iho state, and one year in the district for which he is chosen. A representa- tive must be twenty-four vears of age, a citizen of the United States, must have resided in the state two years, and in the district one. The governer is elected for four years, and is eligible four years out of eleven. He must be thirty years of age, a citizen of the Unitet' States, and must have resided in the state two years, and in the district one. Jle has?. qualified negative upon the proceedings of the assembly, has a pardoning power, and makes appointments with the consent of the senate. The judiciary consists in a supreme court, and in such inferior courts as the assembly may appoint, and the judges retain their oflSces during good behaviour. Every free white male citizen of the age of twenty-one, who has resided in the state two years, or one year in the distrct is entitled to the elective franchise. INDIANA. is divided as esentativesfor -five years of yp-ars in iho A i'epresenta- Jnited States, ct one. The out of eleven. ites,and must le. Jle has a sa pardonintr senate. The courts as the during good f twenty-one, the distrct is Length, 250, Breadth, 150 miles. Between 37° 47' and 4F 50' N. latitude, and 7° 45' and IP W. longitude. Bounded north by Michigan Territory and lake. West by the state of Illinois. South by the Ohio, which divides it from Kentucky ; East by the state of Ohio. CIVIL DIVISIONS. Counties. Allen, Bartholomew, Boone, Carroll, Cass, Clark, Clay, Clinton, Crawford"^ Daviess, Dearborn, Delaware, Decatur, Dubois, Elkhart, Fayette, Floyd, Fountain, Franklin, Gibson, Greene, Grant, Chief Totcns. Port Wayne, Columbus, Delphi, Logansport, Charlestown, Bowling Green ^ Fredonia, W ashington, Lawrcnceburgh, Greensburgh, Barbersville, Connersville, New Albany, Covington, Brookville, Princeton, Bloomfield, »iS ^. ""^■" 368 INDIANA. m '}> m^ !&• Ifancock, Harrison, Henry, HendrickSy, Jackson, Jefferson,. Jennings, Johnson, Knox, Lawrence,^ Madison, Marion, Martin, Monroe, Montgomery, Morgan, Orange, Owen, Parke, Perry,. Pike, Posey, Putnam,. Randolph, Ripley, Rush, Scott, Shelby, Spencer, St, Joseph, Sullivan, Switzerland, Tippicanoe, Unonj Vanderburgh, Vermillion, Vigo, Wabash, Warren, Warrich, Washington, Wayne. Noblesville, Cory don. New Castle, Danville, Brownstown, Madison, Vernon, Franklin, Vincennes, Bedford, Andersontown^ Indianapolis, Mount Pleasant, Bloomington, Crawfordsviile, Martinsville, Pavli, Spencer, Rockville, Rome, Petersburgli, Mt. Vernon &i. Harmony, Green Castle, Winchester, Versailles, Rushville, Lexington, Shelbyville, Rockport, Merom, Vevay, Lafayette, Liberty, Evansville, Newport, Terrehaule, Booneville, Salem, CentreviUe &l Richmond. --■ --■■^ -■^ INDIANA. 3C9 The whole of this state belongs to the valley of the Ohio, or lake Michigan. It is the first of the states, in advancing from the west, east, and north, where nature seems to have divided the surface between prairie and wood land. The greater proportion of this state is a timbered country. Here, too, we first find the number and manners of northern people predominating among the immigrants. Here we first discover, in most places, a clear ascendency of New England dialect, manners, and population. Here, too, we note the natural tendency of this order of things, and this class of immigrants rapidly, and yet silently filling the country with inhabitants. Missouri and Illinois have occupied a greater space in public estimation, in newspaper description, and in general notoriety. The inunigration to these states have been with four or six horse wagons, large droves of cattle, considerable numbers of negroes, and composed of immigrants, who had name, and were heads of families, when they removed, and whose immigration was accompanied with a certain degree of eclat. The acquisition of a few families was attended with circumstances, which gave it public notoriety. The settling of this state has been generally of a different character, and for the most part of young men, either unmarried or without families. It has been noiseless and unnoticed. But the difference of the result strikes us with surprise. While the population of neither of these states has reached 150,000, the population of this state, at this time, is supposed to exceed 400,000, though the total given by the census is 344,000,— of these 65,359 are free white male inhabitants over 21 years. The number of voters in 1825, was 36,977, and of paupers 217. Face of the Country, Soil, S^c. The south front is skirted with the usual belt of river hills, bluffs and knobs, known by the name of 'Ohio hills.' They occupy a greater or less distance from the river; some- times leaving between it and their base a bottom of two or three miles in width ; and sometimes, and for no inconsiderable length of the southern boundary, the^jr tower directly from the waters of the Ohio, and have a thousand aspects of grandeur and beauty, often rising higher thali 300 feet above the level of the river. The eye of the southern traveller, ascending the Ohio, which has been used to rest on bottoms boundless to vision, on swamps, and regions without a rock or a hill in the scenery, never tires, in surveying these beautiful bluffs, especially in the spring, when their declivities are crimsoned with the red bud, or whitened with the brilliant blossoms of the dog wood, or rendered verdant with the beautiful May apple. A range of knobs, stretching from the Ohio to White River of the Wa- bash, forms the limits of the table lands, that separate the waters of the 47 1.' -Sfi.fl 'mil 370 INOUNA. If Ohio from lliose of White River. iNortli of the VVabasli, between Tippi- canoe and Oiiitanon, the Wabash hills are precipitous, and a considerahlc extent of country is rough and broken. There are in different parts (if the stale, large extents of country, that may be pronounced hilly. Sucl, is the south front of i, "* state to a considerable distance from the Ohio. There are not such extensive plains in this state, as in Illinois. Nor are there any hills to vie with those back of Shawneetown. But with some few exceptions, the greater proportion of this state may be pronounced one vast level. To particularize the level tracts would be to describe three fifths of the state. The prairies here, as elsewhere, are uniformly level. The wide extent of country, watered by White River, is generally level. The prairies have the usual distinction of high and low, swampy and alluvial. For a wide extent on the north front of the state, between the Wabash and lake Michigan the country is generally an extended plain, alternately prairie and timbered land, with a great proportion of swampy lands, and small lakes and ponds. The prairies are no ways dif- ferent from those of Illinois; alike rich, level, and covered with grass and flowering plants. Some like those of Illinois and Missouri, are broader than can be measured by the eye. Their divisions are marked off where ever streams cross them by belts of timbered land. All the rivers of this state have remarkably wide alluvions. Every traveller has spoken with admiration of the beauty and fertility of the prairies along the course of the Wabash, particularly of those in the vicinity of Fort Harrison. Com- petent judges prefer the prairies on this part of the river, both for beauty and fertilty to those of the Illinois, and the Upper Mississippi. Perhaps no part of the western world can show greater extent? of rich land in one body, than that portion of White River country, of which Indianapolis is the centre. Judging of Indiana, from travelling through the south front from 12 to 20 miles from the Ohio,we should not, probably, compare it with Ohio or Illinois. Put now, when the greater part of the territory is pur- chased of the Indians, and all is surveyed, and well understood, it is founa that this state possesses as large a proportion of first rate lands, as any in the western country. With some few exceptions of wide prairies, the divisions of timbered and prairie lands are more happily balanced, than in other parts of the western country. Many rich prairies are long ahd nar- row, so that the whole can be taken up, and timber be easily accessible by all the settlers. There are hundreds of prairies only large enough for a few farms. Even in the large piairies are those beautiful islands of timbered land, which form such a striking feature in the western prairies. The great extents of fertile land, the happy distribution of rivers ami springs may be one cause of the unexampled rapidity, with which this state has iii ■**' wmgf INDIANA. 371 •etweeii Tippj. a consideraldc ferent parts of |d hilly. Such from the Ohio, nois. Nor are |Biit with some be pronounced be to describe are uniformly |er, is generally ' low, swampy state, between an extended proportion of re no ways dif- with grass and i, are broader rked off where le rivers of this as spoken with ? the course of rrison. Com- 30th for beauty ippi. Perhaps ch land in one ndianapolis is he south front ompare it with Jrritory is pur- od, it is found nds, as any in e prairies, the meed, than in long and nar- accessible by )ugh for a few I of timbered rairies. The s and springs this stale has jjeopled. Another reason may bo, that being a non-slavehi)Iding state, and next in position beyond Ohio, it was h ippily situated to arrest tlie tide of immigration, that set beyond Ohio, after that state was filled. We add a few remarks in a single view, upon the qualities of ihc soil, on the several rivers, and near the towns, which we shall describe. The f )rest trees, shrubs, plants and grasses do not materially differ from those of Illinois and Missouri. There is one specific difference, that should be noted. There is a much greater proportion of beech timber, which in- creases so much, as we advance east, than in Ohio, it is clearly the princi- pal kind of timber. This state is equally fertile in corn, rye, oats, barley, wheat and the cereal gramina in general. Vast extents of the richer prai- ries nnd bottoms are too rich for wheat, until the natural wild luxuriance in the soil has been reduced by cropping. Upland rice has been attempt- ed with siU'i'oas. Some of the warm and sheltered vallies have yielded, in favorable years, considcrabl:; crops of cotton. No country can exceed this in its adaptedness for rearing the finest fruits and fruit bearing shrubs. Wild berries in many places aie abundant ; and on some of the prairies the strawberries are large and fine. It is affirmed that in the northern parts in the low prairies whole tracts are covered with the beautiful fowl- meadow grass poa pratensis, of the north. It is a certain fact, that wherever the Indians or the French have inhabited long enough to destroy the natural prairie grass, which, it is well known, is soon eradicated, by being pastured by the domestic animals, that surround a farmer's barn, this grass is replaced by the blue grass of the western country, which fur- nishes not only a beautiful sward, but covers the earth with a mat of rich fodder, not unlike the second crop, which is cut in the northern states, as the most valuable kind of hay. For all the objects of farming, and raising grain, flour, hemp, tobacco, cattle, sheep, swine, horses and generally the articles of the northern and middle states, immigrants could not desire a better country, than may be found in Indiana. In the rich bottoms in the southern parts, the reed cane, and uncommonly large ginseng are abun- dant. Climate, Sfc. Little need be said upon this head, for this state, situated in nearly the same parallels with Illinois and Missouri, has much the same temperature. That part of it which is contiguous to lake Michigan, is more subject to copious rains ; and being otherwise low and marshy, much of the land is too wet for cultivation. Some have described the country and climate near lake Michigan as productive and delightful. For a considerable distance from the lake, sand heaps covered with a few stinted junipers, and swept by the gales of the lake, give no promise of a fine country or climate. But beyond the influence of the lake / ^ ' H- "^-i i. M i-r 3TZ INDIANA. breeze, the climalo is cool, mild nnd temperutc. The state, in goncrni, is somewhat less cx|)Oscd to the extremes of licat and cold, thnn IllinoiH. In point of salubrity, we can do no more than repeat the remarks, which have so often been found applicable to the western country in general, and which from the nature of things must apply to all countries. The high and rolling regions of this state arc as healthy as the same kinds of land in the other parts of the United States. The wet prairies, swampy lands, and tracts contiguous tu small lakes and ponds, and inun- dated bottoms, intersected by bayous, generate fever and ague, and autumnal fevers, and impart a bilious tendency to all the disorders of the country. The beautiful prairies above Vincennes, on the Wabash, in the neighborhood of Fort Harrison and Tippicanoe, are found to have some balance against their fertility, beauty of appearance, and the ease with which they are cultivated, in their insalubrity. That the settlers in general, have found this state, taken as a whole, favorable to health, the astonishing increase of the population bears ample testimony. The winters are mild, compared with those of New England or Penn- sylvania. Winter commences in its severity about Christmas, and lasts seldom more than six weeks. During this time in most seasons, the rivers, that have not very rapid currents, are frozen. Though winters occur, in which the Wabash cannot be crossed upon the ice. About the middle of February, the severity of winter is past. In the northern parts of the state, snow sometimes, though rarely, falls a foot and a half in depth. In the middle and southern parts, it seldom falls more than six inches. Peach trees are generally in blossom early in March. The forests begin to be green from the 5th to the 15th of April. Vast num- bers of flowering shrubs are in full flower, before they are in leaf, which gives an inexpressible charm to the early appearance of spring. Vegeta- tion is liable to be injured both by early and late frosts. Rivers. The southern shore of this state is wished by the Ohio, from the mouth of the Big Miami to that of the Wabash, a distance of nearly 500 miles, by the meanders of the river. We reserve a description of this noble stream for our account of the state of Ohio. Between the Miami and the Wabash, the following considerable streams, together with mfiny small ones, enter the Ohio. Tanner's Creek falls in two miles below Lawrenceburgh, and has a course of 30 miles. Loughery's Creek enters 11 miles below the Miami, and is 40 miles in length. Indian Creek, called by the Swiss, in remembrance of a stream in their native country, Venoge, bounds the Swiss settlements on the south, and enters the Ohio eight miles below the point opposite to Kentucky River. Wyandot, Big Blue, Little Blue, Anderson's River, Pigeon and Beaver I INDIANA. 373 C^rooks enter In the onlor in which we h:iv(? incntioncd ih?tn, ns uc •h'scond llie Ohio. In doscendin^' this (hslnnco, we discover the jleop chnsm throiij^h the bnnks of the Ohio, where a great iniiny smnller stronins enter. Muny of these streams, at some distance frnin the Ohio, aflbrd mill seals. Wo mny therefore remark, that the sonth front of Indiana is well watered. The Wabash is the chief river of this state; and after the Tennessee one of the most considerable tributaries of tlic Ohio. It glides through tlie central parts of the state, and by its exfcnHive branches waters a vast extent of it. Oneof the main branches jioads near Fort St. Mary's, in Darke county, Ohio. The next consifleral)le branch called Little River, heads seven miles south of Fort Wayne, and enters the Wabash, eighty miles below St. Mary 's Portage. The next is Massassinewny, which also heads in Ohio, between Forts Greenville and Recovery; and joins it a league and a half below the mouth of Little River. Eel River, another branch, rises in ponds and lakes, eighteen miles west of Fort Wayne, and joins the Wabash, ci^fht miles below the mouth of the Massassineway. ' Rejoicing, Mascontin, Ouitanon, and Dcche are inconsiderable tributaries. While River enters the Wabash from the eastern side, sixteen miles below Vincennes. It is the most considerable tributary of the Wabash; and one of the most important rivers in the state. It waters a great extent of very fertile country, in a lateral direction to the main steam. Its head waters interlock with the waters of the Miami. Its principal tribu- taries are Driftwood Branch, Muddy Fork, and Tea-kettle Branch. Little River, St. Mary's, Rock River, and Pomme, are inconsiderable tributaries, that enter from the eastern side. It receives a great number of considerable tributaries from the west. Richard's Creek and Rock River enter above Tippicanoe. This stream has acquired lasting fame by the bloody action which was fought upon its banks, between the United States' troops, under General Harrison, and the Wabash savages in November, 1811. It originates from many branches in ponds and lakes, which, like that at the source of the Plein of the Illinois, discharge at one extremity into the waters of the Wabash, and at the other into the Maumee of the lakes. Before the battle of Tippicanoe the Indians had fields in high cultivation along the banks of this river. Below this river from the west, enter in succession. Pine, Redwood, Rejoicing, Little Vermillion, Erabliere, Dachetteand Brouette Rivers, which are inconsid- erable streams, that head in the state of Illinois. White Water is a branch of the Big Miami, and a very interesting river. It rises near Fort Greenville, in Ohio. Not far from its source it crosses into this state, and in its devious course, waters a large extent of fertile country. The West Fork unites with it at Brookvillc, 30 miles above its entrance into the Miami. This beautiful stjream is supposed to water ^\> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V < ^^ l^|tf 4^ 1.0 I.I ■ii lii 122 £ |i£ 12.0 u HUM u& IL25 III 1.4 IIIJ4I 1.6 6" ss ^> Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTEII,N.Y. 14980 (716)872-4503 « 374 A INDIANA. nearly a million acres of land. It abounds in fine fish^ and surpasses the other rivers of the country in the unusual transparency of waters. It has its sources in copious hill springs, and its waters are uncommonly cold. The people in its vicinity have an idea that its waters are too much want- ing in specific gravity, or too little buoyant, fur ordinary swimmers to t t themselves to bathe in it. The northern front of the state, bordering on tlie territory of Michigan, and the lake of that name, is watered copiously by rivers, that empty into that lake and lake Erie. The principal of these are the St. Joseph of the Maumec of the lakes, and its numerous branches, the river Raisin of lake Erie, Black River of lake Michigan with its numerous branches; Chemin. Big and Little Kenomic, all of that lake, and Theakiki, Kickapoo, Plein, and the Vermillion of Illinois. These numerous rivers generally have short courses, and carry large volumes of water. Most of them originate in ponds and lakes, of which an hundred exist along the northern frontier. •Many have the peculiar character of such waters in this region, that is to say, a position on an elevated plateau, from one extremity of whicli the waters discharge into the lakes, and from the other into the waters of the Mississippi. .. : : ' ■ , , , • Although this state has not so great an extent of inland navigation as Illinois, the amount of that navigation is very great. Many of its waters interlock with those of the Illinois. It possesses the whole extent of the noble Wabash, and White River, and its numerous beatable branches, Jl V these large marshy ponds, which at once discharge into lake Michigan anti jSrie on the one hand, and the gulf of Mexico on the other, with a smal. expense of money and labor, the lakes will be united by canals with the Ohio and Illinois. A navigable canal already connects the White Water by the Big Miami with the Ohio, at Cincinnati. This state so rapidly becoming populous, is the younger sister of Ohio, and will soon dispute the point of population and importance. It will ere long emulate the enterprise, the canals and great public works of its model. By the lakes the northern frontier is already connected with Canada and New York. The whole extent of the inland navigation may be fairly rated at 5,000 miles. « ^*\ . , Chief Towns. Character of the country in which they are situated. The tabular view of county towns presents the names of the most con- siderable villages in this state. To mention, in detail, all that have really attained some degree of consequence, would only furnish a barren cata- logue of names. We will mention the chief of those on the Ohio, in descending order, beginning with Lawrenceburgh, on the south-eastern angle of the state. ^ "T* ' INDIANA. 3T5 This town, the seat of justice for the county of Dearborn, stands on the north bank of the Ohio, 23 miles bolow Cincinnati, and two miles below the Big Miami, the eastern limit of the state. It is in the centre of a rich bottom. The ancient village was built on the first bottom, which was frequently exposed to inundation. It was not uncommon for the water to rise four or five feet above the foundations of the houses, in which case the inhabitants removed to the upper story, and drove their domestic animals to the hills. Visits and tea parties were projected in the inundated town, and the vehicles of transport skiifs and periogues. The period of the flood, from ancient, custom, and the suspension of all the customary pursuits, became a time of carnival. The floods, instead of creating disease, v ash the surface of the earth, carry off vegetable and animal matter, and are supposed to be rather conducive to health than otherwise. The old town, built on the first bank, }iad been stationary for many years. New Lawrenceburgh has been recently built on the second bank, and on elevated ground, formed by the bank of Tanner's Creek. Since the commencement of this town few places have made more rapid progress. Many of the new houses are handsome ; and some of tliem make a handsome show from the river. Its position, in relation to the river, the rich adjacent country, and the Big Miami, is highly eligible. It has a number of respectable commencing manufactories, and promises to be a large town. It contains 1,000 inhabitants. Aurora is a new village, at the mouth of Hogan Creek, four miles below, on the Ohio. It contains between 60 and 70 dwellings. Rising Sun, 13 miles below Lawrenceburgh, occupies a beautiful position on the Ohio, and is a village something larger than Aurora. : '' Vevay, the seat of justice for Switzerland county, is situated 8 miles above the point, opposite the mouth of Kentucky River, and 45 miles below Cincinnati, It contains between 2 and 300 houses, a court house, jail, academy, printing office, from which issues a weekly journal, a branch of the Bank of Indiana, and some other public buildings. This inter- esting town was commenced in 1804, by 30 Swiss families, to whom the United States made a grant, undei* favorable stipulations, of a considera- ble tract of land, to patronize the cultivation of the vine. The patriarch of this colony was a Swiss gentleman, of the name of J. J. Dnfour, who continued an intelligent friend to the town. The colony soon received considerable accessions from the mountains of Switzerland. In grateful remembrance of their native hills, and to create in the bosom of their adopted country tender associations with their ancient country, they named their stream Venoge, and their town Vevay. Messrs. Dufour, Morerod, Bettens, Sicbenthal, and others, commenced the cultivation of the gmpe on a large scale. This cultivation has gone on steadily in- J^ » It ^ 870 INDIANA. creasing. An hundred experiments have been since commenced in dif- ferent points of the West. But this still remains the largest vineyard in the United States. We have witnessed nothing in our country, in the department of gardening and cultivation, which can compare witli tlic richness of this vineyard, in the autumn, wlien the clusters are in maturity. Words feebly paint such a spectacle. The horn of plenty seems to have been emptied in the production of this rich fruit. We principally remarked the blue or Cape grape and the Madeira grape. The wine of the former has been preferred to the Claret of Bordeaux. The fruit tends to become too succulent and abundant. It is now sup- posed that some of our native grapes, will more easily acclimate, and make a better wine. These amiable and industrious people are constantly profiting by experience. This species of agriculture already yields them a better profit than any other practised in our country. They are every year improving on the vintage of the past. They are the simple and interesting inhabitants that we might expect, from the prepossessions of early reading, to find from the vine clad hills of Switzerland. Tliey are mostly protestants, and happily compound the vivacity of the French with the industry of the Germans. Like the former they love gaiety and dancing. Like the latter they easily fall in with the spirit of our institutions, love our country and its laws, intermarry with our people, and are in all respects a most amiable people. There is a considerable num- ber of professional men in Vevay, a public library, a literary society, and many of the comforts and improvements of a town. Mr. Dufour has distinguished himself by agricultural publications, particularly upon the culture of the vine. This industrious people have created some manu- factures, peculiar to themselves, particularly that of straw bonnets. The position of the town is fortunate, in relation to the back country, and tlie other interior large towns. Madison, tlie most populous, and one of the pleasantest and most thriving towns in the state; is situated on the Ohio, nearly equi- distant between Louisville and Cincinnati, and was commenced in ISU. In 1829 between 40 and 50 brick buildings, many of them three stories, were added to the town ; and the promise of future progress is equally great. Its position on the Ohio is peculiarly favorable, it being the point of the river nearest to Indianapolis, 84 miles from it, and the landing place for the imports from the Ohio to a number of the newly settled and thriving counties. Besides churches and public buildings, it has 25 dry good^s Stores, many of them transacting an extensive business. A line of stages passes through it. It has two printing offices, and issues a respectable weekly gazette. It has an insurance company, and expects a branch of the United States Bank. It does a large business in exports of INDIANA. 377 the produce of the country, and is particularly noted for the quantity of pork barrelled here. It contains 2,000 inhabitants. New London, ten miles lower on the river, and Charlestown, 29 miles lower, and two miles back from tlio Ohio, are small villages. The land about the latter town was a grant of gratilude from Virginia to the brave General Clark and his soldiers, for their achievements at the close of the revolulionary war. Jeflersonville is situated just ubove the falls of Ohio. The town of Louisville on the opposite shore, and the beautiful and rich country beyond, together with the broad and rnpid river, ibrming whitening sheets and c:iscadcs from shore to shore, the display of steam boats, added to the high banks, the neat village, and the nuble woods on the north bank, unite to render the scenery of this village uncommonly rich and diversified. It 13*3 considerable and handsome village with some houses, that have a show of magnificence. It has a land offices, a post office, a printing office, and some other public buildings. It was contemplated to canal the falls on this side of the river; and a company with a large capital was incor- porated by the legislature. In 1819, the work was commenced, but has not been prosecuted with the success that was hoped. The completion of the canal on the opposite side will, probably, merge this project, by rendering it useless. One of the principal chutes of the river, in low water, is near this shore ; and experienced pilots, appointed by the state, are always in readiness to conduct boats over the falls. Clarksville is a small village just below this place. - -' • New Albany, the seat of justice for Floyd county, is four and a half miles below Jeffersonville. The front street is three quarters of a mile in length, {uid makes a respectable appearance from the river. Many steam boats, that cannot pass the falls, are laid up for repair at this place, dur- ing the summer. It has a convenient ship yard for building steam boats, and is a thriving and busy village, containing 1,900 inhabitants. Fredonia, Leavenworth, Rockport, and Evansville occur, as we descend the Ohio. The last is a village of some consequence. It is the landing place for immigrants, descending the Ohio, for the Wabash. It is at the mouth of Big Pigeon Creek, 54 miles south of Vincennes, and 45 above the mouth of the Wabash. Being about half way between the falls of Ohio and the mouth, it is a noted stopping place for steam boats. Corydon, the seat of justice for the county of Harrison, was for a con- siderable time the political metropolis of this state. It is distant 23 miles from Jeffersonville, and 13 from the Ohio, and is situated in the forks of Indian Creek. North of the town, spreads an extensive regicm of barrens, full of sink holes and lime stone caves. ^^ 48 . • '.*. ** ^• «j 373 INDIANA. ■y^' Salem, on a small branch of Blue River, 34 miles north of Coryilon, is a flourishing county town, containing more than 100 houses Brownstown, Paoli, and Washington, are inferior county towns. The following towns are on the Wahash as we descend the river. Above Tippicanoe is the old French- post of Ouitanon, at the head of boiilable navigation on the river, in the centre of what was recently the country of the savages. Its origin dates back nearly one hundred years. The in- habitants are a mixture of French and Indian blood. Merom is on a higi) bluff of the Wabash, opposite La Motte Prairie, in Illinois, and is in the I centre of rich and beautiful prairies. It has peopled with great rapidity. Terre Haute is situated two miles below Fort Harrison, as its name im- ^rts, on a high bank of the Wabash. It is a growing and important village. Shaker Town, 15 miles above Vincennes, contains a community of the industrious people called Shakers, and exhibits the marks of tirder and neatness, that so universally characterize this people. Vincennes is, after Kaskaskia, the oldest place in tlie western world. It was settled in 1735 by French emigrants from Canada. They fixed themselves here in a beautiful, rich, and isolated spot, in the midst of the deserts. For an age they had little intercourse with any other people than savages. Their interests, pursuits and feelings were identified with them. Their descendants are reclaimed from their savage propensities; and have the characteristic vivacity and politeness of the French people. It is 150 miles above the mouth of the Wabash; and 54 from the nearest poin{ of the Ohio. It has improved rapidly of late; and contains 300 houses, a brick court house and hotel, a jail, a respectable building for an Academy, a Roman Catholic and a Presbyterian church, land office, post office, two printing offices, from one of which is issued a respectable gazette, a bank, and some other public buildings, and 1,500 inhabitants. It is situated contiguous to a beautiful prairie, 5,000 acres of which are cultivated as a common field, after the ancient French customs. It was for a long time tlie seat of the territorial goverament, and still has as much trade as any other place in the state. The plat of the town is level, and laid off with regularity. The houses have extensive gardens, crowded after the French fashion with fruit trees. It is accessible, for the greater part of the year, by steam boats ; and is a place of extensive supply of merchandise to the interior of the state. Volney, who visited this place not long afler the establishment of the Federal Government, gives a graphic and faithful account of the appearance of this place, and the adjoining country, the French inhabitants and their manners. At the same time he presents a revolting picture of the manner in which the Americans had treated them. Perhaps he had not learned that Vincennes INDIANA. 379 liad been for a long timo a nest of savages, from which they fitted out tlicir murderous expeditions ; and that it was natural that the Kentuckians who had suffered much from them, should retaliate upon the people who hail harbored them. lie rfcpresents them, subsequently, to have been cheated out of their lands by the Americans, and their ignorance so profound, that little more than half their number could read or write; ami he avers that he cuuld instantly distinguish them, when mixed with the Americans, by their meagre and tanned faces, and their look of poverty and desolation. However just this picture may have been in 1706, it is reversed now. Most of the inhabitants have an air of ease and affluence; and Vincennes furnishes a pleasant and respectable society. Harmony is fifty-four miles below Vincennes, and something more than one hundred by water above the mouth of the Wabash on the east bank of the river, 16 miles from the nearest point of the Ohio, on a rich and heavily timbered plateau, or second bottom. It is high, healthy, has a fertile soil, and is in the vicinity of small and rich prairies, and is a pleasant and well chosen pasition. It was first settled in 1814, by a re- hgious sect of Germans, denominated Ilarmonites. They were emigrants fiom Germany, and settled first on' Beaver Creek in Pennsylvania. They moved in a body, consisting of 800 souls, to this place. Their spiritual and temporal leader was George Rapp, and all the lands and possessions were held in his name. Their society seems to have been a kind of inter- mediate sect between the Shakers and Moravians. They held their property in common. Their regulations were extremely strict and severe. In their order, industry, neatness, and perfect subordination, they resem- bled the Shakers. They soon erected from 80 to 100 large and substantial buildings. Their lands were laid off* with tlie most perfect regularity, and were as right angled and square as compass could make them. They were wonderfully successful here, as they had been in other places, in converting a wilderness into a garden in a short time. They had even the luxury of a botanic garden and a green house. Their great house of assembly, with its wings and appendages, was nearly 100 feet square. Here they lived, and labored in common, and in profound peace. But from some cause, their eyes were turned from the rich fields and the wide prairies, and the more southern and temperate climate of the Wabash towards Beaver Creek, the place where they had first settled. While they were under the influence of these yearnings, the leader of a new sect came upon them. This was no other tlian Robert Owen of New Lanark, in Scotland, a professed philosopher of a new school, who advo- cated new principles, and took new views of society. He denominated his theory, 'The Social System.' He was opulent, and disposed to make a grand experiment of his principles on the prairies of the Wabash, and «. ii 380 • f INDIANA. purchased the land and village of Mr. Rapp, for 190,000 dollars. In ^ short time there were ndmiltcd to iJic new cslfibliglimnnt from seven to eight hundred persons. Thoy dnncrd nil torjefher, one night in every wpok and had a concert of music in anolhnr. 'i'lip Sal bntli wns occupied in the delivery nnd hearing of philopophicul Ircf iirrs. Two of Mr. Owen's sons and Mr. M'Clure joined him fmm Scotiantl. The soriofy at Xcw Ilarmnnv as the place was called, excited a groat deal of remark in every part of ihe United States. Great numbers of distinguished men in nil the walks of life wrote to the society, making enquiries, respecting its prospects, and rules; and expressing a desire, al some future time to join it. Mr. Owen remainedat New Harmony, little more than n year;in which timehemadea voyage to Europe. The fourth of Jidy, 1820, he promulgated his famous declaration of ' mental independence.' The society had begun to moulder before this time. He has left New Harmony, and ' the social system' is abandoned. It is to be hoped, that this beautiful village, which has been the theatre of such singular and opposite experiments, will again flourish. Brookvillc is a decaying village, in the forks of the beautiful White Water. It was noted for the number and entcrprize of its mechanics and manufacturers. A number of its public and private buildings are of brick, and respectable. It has grist mills, saw mills, carding machines, a printing office and numbers of the common mechanic shops, where the usual articles of city manufacture are made. The surrounding country is finely timbered and watered. The soil is rich and productive; and has acquired reputation for the excellence of its tobacco. From some cause, notwithstanding all these advantages, it has declined. The number of houses exceeds one htmdred. v Harrison is situated on the north shore of White Water, eight miles fVoM its mouth, eighteen north-east of Brookville, and in the centre of an excellent body of land. The village is divided between the jurisdic- tion of Ohio and Indiana. In the rich and extensive bottoms, that surround this village, are found great niunbers of Indian mounds. They contain quantities of human bones, in all stages of decay. Indian axes, vases, and implements of war and domestic use, abound in them. In the bottom of most of them are found brands, coal and ashes; indications, from which antiquarians have inferred, that they were places of sacrifice, and that the victims were human. Richmond ic a thriving town of 1,500 inhabitants. Indianapolis is situated on the west bank of White River, in the centre of one of the most extensive and fertile bodies of land in the western world ; nearly central to the state, and at a point accessible by steam boats, in cominon stages of the Wabash. No river in America according to its 9ize and extent, waters greater bodies of fertile land, than White River, INDIANA. :m The country is settling nbout this town with unexainplr J rapidity. But g few yenrs since, it wns a s lid and dcrp forest, where the surprised traveller n"W sees the l.uildings of a metropolis, compact streets and squares of brick lniil(linj.'s, respertril)lc public biiil linps, munufiictorios, mechanic Bh"ps, printinrr olVices, liusiiiess and busllo. Such is the present aspect of Indi;inripf)lis, which contains two hundred liouscs, nnd 1,200 inhabit- ants. Tt will, probably, berome one of the largest towns between Cincinnati and the Mississippi. In the recently settled parts of the state, have sprung up a number of new towns, with compact streets and handsome houses, within four or five years. The most considerable of tliese are Logansport, Terre Haute, Rockvillc, Crawfordsvillc, and La Fayette. This last town is now the head of navigation on the Wabash. At the point designated by the commissioners for the termination of the Wabash and Erie canal, 06 miles below La J'ayette, is the famous battle ground of Tippicanoo at the mouth of that river. It exhibits the most beautiful scenery. The breast-works of the American army are still visible. The hottest point of the fight is indicated by the masses of bones of the horses that wero killed. General Tipton, who at the age of eighteen years distinguished himself in that battle, is the present owner of the site, and has enclosed it with a view to consecrating the memory of that event. The increase of population in this state, since the year 1820, has been unexampled, even in the annals of western progress. The inhabitants then amounted to 147,000. The census of 1830 gives it 344,000 This census did not include any but resident persons. Great numbers of immigrants were in the state at the time it was taken, and were not included in it. The tide of immigration was stronger at no period, than last autumn. The number of inhabitants at this time, exce.nls 400,000. The principal influx of this population has been to the c-^ujrtry on the Upper Wabash, forming the counties of Warren, Fountain, ' 'ippicanoe, Madison, Hancock, Clay, Caroll, Cass, Clinton, and Boone. These counties send four Senators and eight representatives to the General Assembly. The inhabitants are distinguished for their progress in making farms and towns, and their intelligence and respectability. Nearly half the counties have been constituted within the last five years. The soil of the Upper Wabash is of the richest quality, being black, deep, friable and extremely productive. Over the whole extent we meet with fertile and beautifully undulating prairies. Unlike those farther west, some of them have small hills of considerable elevation with groves on their summits, presenting delightful prospects to the eye. The productiveness of these prairies is surprising. The face of the country is undergoing an astonishing change, which seems the work of -^ 38ii INDIANA. cncliantmont. fiirce or four years ago it liad only been trodden by savaged or the animals of tiio wilderness. Wo now see not only luxuriant forests, numerous flocks^ hcrdn and commencing orchards, and gardens, but neat and substantial brick houses. In consequence of the great cliange produced by tlie opening of the New York cannJ, and the canal connecting Lake Erie with Ontario, the north front of Indiana along Lake Michigan, which, a few years since, was regarded as a kind of terminating point of habitancy in the desert, has l)egun to be viewed as a maratime shore, and the most important front of the state. Navigable waters. Their extent has been rated at 2,500 miles. We have given nn estimate of twice that amount. When we take into view the whole northern lakes, and all their shores, traversed at present by steam boats, this estimate will be found moderate. The beatable waters, beside the lakes, consist of the long extent of the Ohio, washing the soothern shore, the Wabash and its waters, Petoka, Blue River, St. Joseph, White Water, Rocky River, Pomme, Massiaineway, Eel River, Little River, Pan^lier Creek, Elkhorn, St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, Great and Little Kenomic, Chcmin, Chicago, Kickapoo, Theakiki, part of Fox, Plein and Illinois. The distance from Chicago, to New Orleans is 1680, and to Buffalo 800 miles. In regard to the facility of communication between the Ohio and Mississippi, and the lakes, we have already noted the great number of lakes and ponds, that from one extremity communicate with tliose rivers; and from the other, with Lake Erie and Michigan. More than 20 of these portages have been practised. Among the first, we name that between St. Marys, and Little River of the Wabash. By this the French formerly communicated with their posts on the Wabash. The second is a short portage, between Chicago and tlie Kickapoo of the Illinois. In high spring waters, boats pass by this route from the lake to the river. The third is the distance of a league between the north branch of the Big Miami, and the south branch of the-Maumec. By this communication canoes have passed from the Ohio to Lake Erie. Another communication is a kind of natural canal at Loramier^s Fort, connecting the Miami and the Maumee, which is practicable for boats in high waters. There is another similar connection between Hudson River of Lake Erie, and Grand River of Lake Michigan. The Muskingum of the Ohio commu- nicates in spring floods with the Cuyahoga of Lake Erie. There is a portage of four miles, between the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, and Theakiki, of two miles between the Theakiki and the great Kenomic, of half a mile between the Great and Little Kenomic; of three miles between Chicago and Plein, and numerous other communications ^ rf#*^ % INDIANA! 383 between the rivers oflho Wubotih and Lake Michij^an, tuo numerous to mention. • The river Chicago empties into Lake Michigan, near the territorial limits of Imliuna nnd Illinois. Its harbor irt tlic south-western extremity of that lake. Fort Dearborn, where tlic bloody tragedy of September, ISI.% was enacted by the Indians, in the massacre of its garrison, was, until recently, a military jwst of the United States. It has lately been abandoned. At the mouth of this river is the only harbor on the lake for a great distance; and when ever a canal shall unite the Illinois with the lake, it will become a place of great commercial importance. Indians. Until recently, they owned the greater part of the fertile lands in this state. Most of ^hese lands have lately been purchased of them by treaty. The nnmea of the tribes, as they used to be, convey little idea of their present position and numbers. Gre;it numbers hiive emigrated far to the west, on White River and Arkansas. Others have strayed into Canada, or towards the sources of the Mississippi, and their deserted places are rapidly filling with the habitations of white men. Their names, as they used to be, are Masconlins, Piankashaws, Kicka- poos, Delawares, Miamies, Shawnees, Weeas, Ouitanons, Eel Rivers and Poltawattomies. Their present numbers can not exceed four or five thousand souls. It is an unquestionable evidence of the fertility of the country in the interior of Indiana, that it was once the seat of Uie most dense Indian population in tho western country. The Indians ^nvarinbiy fixed in greatest numbers, where the soil was fertile, the country healthy, and the means of transport on water courses easy and extensive. Such countries abounded in fish and game, and such was the country in question. The Indians in this country were invaded, in 1791, by Gen. Wilkinson. He destroyed their principal town. It contained 120 houses, eighty of which were roofed with shingles. The gardens and improve- ments about it were delightful. There was a tavern with cellars, bar, public and private rooms ; and the whole indicated no small degree of order and civilization. The prophet's town, destroyed by Gen. Harrison in November, 1811, was a considerable place. The Miamies possess a reservation near Logan's Fort, of 36 miles square of land, of the finest quality. Their numbers are 1,150. ' Beside their rich lands, they have an annuity of 25^000 dollars, which, with their possessions, render them wealthy. Near the Kankakee Ponds north of the Wabash, reside the Pottawatt'omi* a, who are more numerous than the Miamies. These Indians, in 1826 ceded lands to the United States, for the purpose of causing a road to be constructed from Lake Michigan by way of Indian- apolis to the Ohio. Congress confirmed the grant, and the road has beien laid out, and rendered passable. ,. ,, , %*; m ,. ■» INDIANA. I f- (Jame and /Y*A. Tlio iiiterior and iiortlieiii putts of tins hIhIo aw abtindintly stdckcd willw^imi'. IJ 'irs, iiri!l csiuriiilly deor, aro cornniuii, Wild turki'VH hiive 1 eon piipposol hy s nnc, to nlHitiiid a.s tniic.h i>n iIk- waters ofWIiiic River, jih tlicy do in tlie sctlird rryions. IIiinduulH nro Bomelinics driven Irnin one corn Held. Prairio liens, jmrtridyea uiul grouse nboniid on (ho |>r:iiriuH, nnd in sonic seas .iis, wild pigeons are seen hero in conntlrss nnnil ors. Where ihey rui si, llie limbs of the trees are broken oil' in all directions by their nniiil eis. Veiioni' us snakes and noxious reptil(!sare sometimes 8cen,es|)uiial|y in the vicinity of led;^as of rocks. .Tho rattle snake und llio copper head uro the mest numerous and dangerous. The Htreanis, and esiKJcially those that comtnuiiiciiii; with Luke Micliifran, arc abundant in fish ^of the best (pialities. The number and excellence of the fish, and the ease, with which they arc taki^n. arc circumstances of real importance and advanta;,'e to iho first settlers, and help to sustain thctn, until they are enabled to subsist by the avaiU of cultivation. Minerals and Fossils. There arc salt springs in dilTerent parts of the state. We do not know, that any of them are worked to much extent. The salt has hitherto been ehielly broujfht from tho United States' Saliao. back of Shawneetown, or from the Salines of Kenhawa. Stone coal ot the best quality is found in various places. Native copper has been discovered in small masses, in the northern parts of the state. Iron ore is also found in some places. But in general it is a country too level to be a mineral one. Although from the first seltlcment of the country, it has been asserted, that there is a silver jninc near Ouitanon. Antiquities. This state once possessed a numerous Indian population, Their mounds, sepulchres, ruined vilhiges, the sward of blue grass, which indicates in times nearer, or remote, the position of an Indian village, their implements of war and agriculture, dug up by the spade, or turned up by the plough, strike us on all sides, as we travel through this state. They can not but excite deep and serious thoughts in a reflecting mind. French traditions relate, that an exterminating battle took place in a spot, which is now designated by two or three small mounds, near where Fort Harrison now stands. The battle was fought between the Indians of the Mississippi, and of the Wabash. The prize of conquest was the lands, which were adjacent to the field of battle. A thousand warriors fought on each side. The contest commenced with the sun, and was fought with all the barbarity and desperation of Indian bravery. The Wabash warriors were victorious with seven survivors; and the vanquished came off with only five. Curiosities' Like Alabama and Tennessee, this state abounds with subterranean wonders, in the form of caves. Many have been explored^ "^-i INPIANA. 385 nnd sonie of them have been (Icscritioii. One ofthem is exteniively known in tlic wostrrn country hy the nnme of * the Eptom salts cave.'' It is not very fnr from JrfVcrHonvillp. Wht'ii first discovcrnH, the salta wore represented ns iKnnpsoine inelirs deep on tlio floor. The interior of this ciivc posj^eHses the iisuni domes and chnmt)crs of extensive caverns, throiipli which the visitant f?rnj)ii ■ ' ' 1 1)1 > i.Ti'.id":- r^'i -"V' ^-u',- U, ,*-VV nH^ Ok •■i>r «i.. # OHIO. Length, 210 miles. Mean breadth, 200 miles, containing 40,000 square miles, and 25,000,000 acres. Between 38° 30' and 41° 19' N, latitude; and between 3° 31' and 7° 41' West from Washington. Bounded on the North by the territory of Michigan, and Lake Erie ; East by Pennsylvania, South-east by Virginia, from which it is separated by the Ohio; South by the Ohio, which separates it from Virginia and Kentucky j and West by Indiana. Distances f torn Columbus. 101 miles. 110 191 73 124 104 101 50 43 109 67 152 84 69 138 103 23 28 ■V CIVIL DIVISIONS. Counties. County Toums. Adams, West Union, • Allen, Wassahkonnetta, Ashtabula, Jefferson, Athens, Athens, Belmont, St. Clairsville, ^ Brown, Greorgetown, Butler, Hamilton, Champaign, Urbana, Clarke, Springfield, Clermont, Batavia, Clinton, Wilmington, Columbiana, New Lisbon, Coshocton, Coshocton, Crawford, Bucyrus, Cuyahoga, Cleaveland, Drake, Greenville, Delaware, Delaware, . Fairfield, Lancaster, *.. •^ m>.- 390 OHIO. Fayette, Washington, C. H. 45 Franklin, Columbus, ■ Gallia, Galliopolis, 108 Geauga, Claridon, 157 Greene> Xenia, 57 Guernsey, Cambridge, 83 Hamilton, Cincinnati, 112 Hancock, Findlay, 114 Hardin, Hardy, 66 Harrison, Cadizt 124 Henry, Damascus, 161 Highland, Hillsboro, 74 Hocking, Logan, 47 Holmes^ Millersburgh, 80 Huron, Norwalk, 113 Jackson, Jackson, C. H. 74 Jefferson^ Steubenville, 149 Knox, Mount Vernon y 45 Lawrence, Burlington, 135 Licking, Newark, S4 Logan, Bellefontaine, 62 Lorain, Elysia,. 130 Madison, London, 37 Marion, Marion, 47 Medina, Medina, C. H. 111 Meigs, Chester, 94 Mercer Saint Mary's, 111 Miami^ Troy, 78 Monroe, Woodsfieldy 140 Montgomery, Dayton, 66 Morgan, McConnelsville, 70 Muskingum, Zanesville, 59 Paulding, Perry, Somerset, 46 Pickaway, Circleville, 26 Pike, Piketon, 65 Portage, Ravenna, 127 Preble, Eaton, 92 Putnam, Sugar Grove, 148 Richland, Mansfield, 71. Ross, Chillicothe, 45 Suiulusky, Lower Sandusky, IPS % OHIO* 391 ^t 01 85 86 116 157 107 37 146 83 106 86 175 135 Scioto, Portsmouth, Seneca, ... Tiffin, Shelby, '.^ Sidney, Stark, Canton, Trumbull, Warren, Tuscarawas, New Philadelphia, Union, Marysville, Van Wert, Willshire, Warren, Lebanon, Washington, Marietta, Wayne, Wooster, Williams, Defiance, Wood, Perrysburgh, The census of 1830, gives the population of this state as follows : whites, 928,093. Other persons, 9,586. Total, 937,679. Face of the country. There is, probably, no where in the world a body of land, of the same extent, of which a greater proportion is susceptible of cultivation. It may be considered a surface of table land, sloping in one direction towards the Ohio, and in the other, towards Lake Erie. The northern belt has great tracts of wet and marshy soil. They are, however, excellent, and in positions that render them easy to be drained. They are covered with forests, and when cleared, and drained, will not make the least valuable parts of the state. There are extensive bodies of lands heavily timbered in a state of nature, which are as level as prairies. The most fertile part of the state is between the two Miamies. On the upper courses of the Miamies, Muskingum and Scioto, are rich and extensive prairies, divided into wet and dry prairies, of which the latter only are at present susceptible of cultivation. The forest trees are the same as in Kentucky and Indiana, except, that the peccan tree, which is common on the waters of the Wabash, is not often found here. The forests are deep, but in the richest soils, the trees are rather distinguishable for their straight* ness, than their size.. A considerable part of the eastern and south eastern divisions is hilly; in some places rising into fine cultivable swells; and in other places into hills, too broken and precipitous to admit cultivation. The most marshy parts are found on the table lands, the highest in the state. But nine-tenths of the surface are suscep- tible of cultivation, and are already, or are rapidly becoming a thickly settled country of moderate sized freeholds. One remark may convey a general idea of the forest. It is, as in Indiana and Illinois, composed almost entirely of deciduous trees, with few evergreens, or terebinthine trees, if we except some few cypress trees. On its whole wide surface, js scarcely any land so hilly, sterile, or marshy, as, with moderate labor, .* ,^i' # 4? .-592 OHIO. ■i may not be sub'lued, drained and cultivated. The whole region seems to have invited a hardy and numerous body of freeholders to select themselvos moderate, and nearly ecjual sized farms, and to intersperse ihnm over its surface. In respect to the smallncss of the farms, the number, equality, and compactness of the population, not confined, as farther west, to the water courses, but diffused over the whole state, it compares very accurately with New England. To an eye that could contemplate the whole region from an elevated point, it would even yet exhibit a great proportion of unbroken forest, only here and there chequered with farms. Yet in the county towns, and better settled districts, any spectacle, that collects the multi- tude, a training, an ordination, an chction, or the commencement of any great public work, causes a rush from the woods and the forests, which, like the tenanted trees of the poets in the olden time, seem to have given birth for the occasion to crowds of men, women and children, pouring towards the point of attraction. There are vast tracts of coimtry that are actually alluvial, and in fact the greater part has an alluvial aspect, as though it had not long since emerged from the waters. It has been asserted, and commonly believed, that springs dry up, and fail, as a new country becomes settled. Many of the oldest and most intelligent settlers, resolutely deny the jkassertion, and affirm the direct contrary ; declaring, that the streams in ^neral are more flush in the cleared and settled country, than they were when it was an unbroken furest. In proof, they point ttut many streams, which then became dry in summer, and now yield sufficient water to turn mills, through the season. This is one of those disputable, points which is apt to be settled differently according to the experience and opinions of the party. It certainly involves one of the most interesting questions in relation to the influence of cultivation upon climate, a question which ought to have been more elucidated by the settling of the western country, than any other; but which has hitherto been discussed in a desultory and unsatisfying manner. Forests are supposed to condense vapors, and attract clouds. Clearing them away gives more free scope to the winds, and tends to equalize atmospheric action. Cultivation renders the surface of the soil more compact, and retentive of moisture; and we incline to the opinion, that the western streams are fuller and more lasting, since the cutting down of the forests, and that the Ohio and Mississippi carry more water, than formerly. But the experience of almost every old settler warrants the fact, that innumerable springs have failed since the cutting down of the forests, that shaded the hills, whence they sprung. This partial result may, however, be more than counter- rtlllO, 393 balanced by a <,vi\eial clian^re in atmospliciic action, consequent upon oppninf,' vast surfaces of tlic forest to the iiiJiiicncc of the sun and air. The forest of lliis state is generally doej) and heavy. The prevalent kinds of trees are, the dillcjrent species of oak, white, red and black, burr and overcup; three or fcjiir species of ash, white, blue and black; yellow and white poplar; all the dilfercnt species of hickories, especially black and white walnut; three species of ehn, huckberry, buck-eye, linn, and foffee tree. White maple is conimun, and sugar maple of great beauty, almost universal. Beech, however, is the most common timber. The undergrowth is spicebush, dogwood, iron wood, horn beam, black haw, pawpaw, different species of thorn, and wild plum. Unimproved land rates from two to eight dtdlurs per acre, according to situation and (piality; improved land, from five to twenty dollars, according to the improvement, situation and quality. Agricidtuml proiJuctions, Every production common to the climate is raised here in great abundance. Without having the appearance of be- ing as rich, as the lands in some parts (jf Illinois and Missouri, the soil, in this part of the Mississippi valley, is found by oxperiment to bo remarka- bly productive. To be able to judge of the extent and power of vegeta- tion, one must reside in the state through the summer, and observe with what luxuriance and rai)i(lity the vegetable creation is pushed on, how rapidly the vines, grain, and fruits grow, and what a depth of verdure the forest assumes. Inilian corn is the staple of the grains, and is no where raised more easily, or in greater abundance. On rich alluvial soils 110 bushels have been produced from an acre; though fifty may be consider- ed an average crop. The state generally has a fine soil for wheat. Rye, barley, oats, spelts, buckwheat, and all the grains are raised in great abundance and perfection. Melons, squashes, jjumpkins, the pulses, gar- den vegetables, both bullions and lap rooted, as potatoes, onions, beets, car- rots, parsnips, and generally garden and culinary vegetables are raised in great perfection. The soil, being more stiff, clayey, and fitted to retain moisture, than the soils farther west, makes the best gardens. We have no where seen so fine asparagus in the west, as in the markets of this state. Fruits of all kinds are raised in the greatest profusion; and apples are as plenty in the cultivated parts of the state, as in any part of the Atlantic country. The markets are amply supplied with pears, peachesy plums, cherries, gooseberries, strawberries, and cultivated grapes. In a few years this state will take i)lacc of any in the Union, in the abundance and excellence of its fruits of all kinds. From the fulness and richness of the clusters of cultivated grapes, it is clear, that this ought to be a country of vineyards. The Germans have already made a few establish- ■It: ^ * 'H^ • i^ ■/-/ >H» onto. menta of the kind, with entire success. Apricots, nectarines, and quinco<:, succeed; and this state is the appropriate empire of Pomona. Re- cently, tobacco has been added to the articles cultivated. The qiinliiy and flavor are .such as to Avarrant the expectation, that it will shortly he 3 principal article of export. Yellow tobacco, which benrs a price so much higher, than any other kind, has been found to prosper remarkably. Hemp is an article of cultivation in some parts of the state. Agricultural im- provement, however, proceeds with slow pace. The people, generally, are not at all given to experiment; and continue to farm in the old and beaten routine. No part of the western country calls more imperiously for agricultural improvement; for this state begins to be thickly settled, and naturally to invite efforts to improve the cultivation. Intelligent and patriotic men are making great exertions to introduce the cultivation of the vine, and mulberry; that wine and silk may be added to the articlesof production. These states, that are so far from a foreign market, and whose bulky articles are so expensive in transportation, ought to use eve- ry exertion to introduce a cultivation, that would have more value in a smaller compass. Besides trees, shrubs, and vines, this state produces a great abundance of indigenous productions, that are useful in medicine. We may mention actea racemosa, squaw roof, Virginia snake root, In- dian turnip, ginseng, which is dug in considerable quantities, as an arti- cle of commerce, Colombo, lobelia, valerian, blood root, or sanguinaria canadensis, and various other herbaceous medicinal plants. Rivers. Under this head we shall describe the noble and beautiful river, that gives name to the state. If the Mississippi has more grandeur. the Ohio has clearly more beauty. If the Mississippi rolls along its angry and sweeping waters with more majesty, the Ohio far exceeds it in its calm, unbroken course, which seldom endangers the boats on its bosom, except there be mismanagement, or storms. No river in the world rolls for the same distance such an uniform, smooth and peaceful current. Its bluffs and bottoms have a singular configuration of amenity, or grandeur. Sometimes lofty bluffs, 300 feet in height, impend the river and cast their grand shadows into the transparent waters. On the other side are fine bottoms, generally above the overflow, and covered with beautiful forest trees, among which rises the venerable sycamore, the king of the forests; 80*8 throws its white arms over the other trees. Whoever has descended this noble river in spring, when its banks are full, and the beautiful red bud, and cdmus Florida, deck the declivities of the bluffs, and are seen at intervals in the bottoms; or in the autumn, when the leaves are all turning yellow, will readily allow the appropriateness of the French name * la belle riviere.^ « ">t ^* OHIO. 'fit It is a river formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongafcela at Pittsburgh. The highest sources of the Alleghany river, are in Potter rounty, Pennsylvania, twelve miles to the eastward of Coudcrsport, where they mterlock witii the head waters of Gcnessee river, and the east and west branches of the Susqiiehannah. From Coudersport it holds a north- westwardly course twenty miles, during which it is augmented by several streams, and then enters the state of New York. Three miles above the New York line, it receives Orway Creek, a considerable stream from the east, and five miles farther, Oil Creek from the north; and then passes the settlement of Hamilton. It thence holds a west course fifteen miles, and receives the Tunuanguanta Creek from the south. Here it bends to the north seven miles, and receives Greatvalley Creek from the north. It thence bends to the southwest, and after a course of twenty-five miles, passes again into the state of Pennsylvania, and winding southwest re- ceives the Connewongo from the north, at the town of Warren. It thence holds a west course seven miles, and receives the waters of Brokenstraw Creek, from the west. It thence curves southwest thirty miles, and re- ceives the Teonista, from the east. Twenty miles farther west, it re -eives Oil Creek from the north ; and seven miles farther French Creek, frou the north west. By this stream it has a communication with Lake Erie. It now assumes a south-east course, and thirty miles farther receives the waters of Toby's Creek, an important stream, which extends 100 miles into the interior of Pennsylvania. Retaining the same course thirty miles, it receives Red Bank and Mahoning Creeks. Passing Kittanning and Crooked Creek, twenty-four miles farther, it receives the waters of the Kiskimmitas. This river is formed by the junction of the Conemaugh and Loyalhanna Rivers, which rise near the Alleghany mountains, 100 miles distant. Below this point the Alleghany continues a south-west course, about thirty-five miles, and reaches Pittsburgh, where it unites with the Monongahela. The former river, though it has not a volume apparently wider than the other, is by far the most important tributary of the Ohio. It has a swift sweeping and rapid current; and often a rocky bottom, whence huge rocks rise to the surface of the water. When it is full in the spring, flat and keel boats descend it rapidly, and without danger. It has been navigated by steam boats; but is one of the most difiici]lt currents to stem, which that kind of boats has yet attempted to vanquish. Monongahela River, the other important branch of the Ohio, rises in Virginia, seventy miles north-west of Morgantown. Twelve miles north of Morgantown, it passes into Pennsylvania ; and a few miles farther receives the waters of Cheat River from the east. Seventy miles farther it receives the waters of the Youghiogeny River, or as it is commonly i^ 396 OHIO. called tlie Yougli, the most important liranch of iIk; IMonon^'uliilfi, rising near the upper wnfcrH (»f tho PotoniHc, srpnratcil only by !i spur of the mountains. From the wcstorn miles, south. Just % #-■ onto. 307 alH)VC this creek is llic roiiiinerei;il mihI irnportiint town of WhceliiiK. McMiilioii's (.'reek, south, 1(K) iiiiU'S. Liltlo (irivo Creek, Houth, 10S« Biff (iriive Creek, north. Fish Creek, soiitli, liJ3. Fishing Creek, south, Un. Stony Creek, north, 1(5*,'. I-itthi Muskingum, north, 179. Muskingum, north, IN.'J. At the nioutliof this river is tlio eonsitUjrahlo town of Mnrietf!!. F.iltle Kenhnwa, south, 1!)7. Little IIoekln)(king, north, !2(»'I. Big IFoekhoeking, north, tilO. Shiule River, north, Vi'.il. Little Sandy, south, 'Jvi7. IJig Sandy, south, "i'M. (ireat Kenhuwu, south, ilNJJ. On this large and important stream are the most extensive salt works in tiie western country. Little (luyandottc, south, 5J()7. Big Guyinulottc, south, .'{'^7. (Ireat Sandy, .south, JML Little Sandy, south, .'«H. Little Scioto, north, 3H0. Big Scioto, north, 3«.)0. This is a very important river of Ohio. On its hanks are extremely rich lands. The piilitical metropolis, (j'olunihus, is sitiuited on it. A little ahove its nioulli is the considcraMe village of Portsmouth. The great J'lrie Canal is to enter the Ohio, near the mouth of this river. The former capital of Ohio, Chillicotlie, is also on its hanks. Turkey Oeek, north, 31)5. Coneconc(|ue, south, lOL Stout's ilun, north, 118. Brush Creek, south, '121. Sycamore Creek, south, \2\. Crooked Creek, south, 444. Lime Stone Creek, south, '15",J, Just helow this creek is the large and important town of IVIaysville, one of the oldest and most accustomed landings on the Ohio, Eagle Creek, north, 4i\2. Straight Creek, north, UJ8. Bracken Creek, south, 472, Bull Skin Creek, nortli, 479. Bear Creek, north, 4HS, Big Indian Creek, north, 492. Muddy Creek, north, 503. Little Miami River, north, 510. Crawfish Creek, north, 519, Deer Creek, north, 523. Licking River, south, 524. This is an im- portant river of Kentucky, entering the Ohio hctwecn Newport and Covington, and ojjposite Cincinnati. Mill Creek, north, 52(). Cireat Miami, north, .551. Laughery's Creek, north, .5()2. Gunpowder Creek,, south, 575. Big Bone Lick Creek, south, 5N3. Kentucky River, south, ()!2n. Six miles ahovc this, on the o;)posite shore, is Vevay, and the beautiful Swiss vineyards. Little Kentucky River, south, ($28. Bear Grass Creek, south, 70(>. Just helow this creek is the important, and commercial town of Louisville, and the only considerahle impediment in the navigation of the Ohio from its commencement to its mouth. This iinj)ec1iment is a ledge of rocks, extending across the Ohio, constituting a considerahle extent of rapids, called Mhe Falls of Ohio.' A canal round these falls, on the Kentucky side of the river, a work of immense mag- nitude and utility, is completed. Salt River, south , 730. Falling Spring, south, 751. Indian, or Wyandot Creek, north, 775. Big Blue River, north, 792. Hardin's Creek, south, 8iS, Anderson's River, north, 851. Blackford Creek, south, 864. Green River, south, 925. This is an itn- -; •' I V tim OUIO, IH)rtiiiit rivcT of Ki'Htucky. Pi^reoii Creek, n )rth, OJiri. Ili^jlilutul Crwk, Hoiilli, WA. Wabauli, north, l,()OH. Tliis is a liiyc, l)«:iii(irii|, an,! iru|>orl;uU rivor of Itnliaiiii. Siliiic Ilivrr, iiorili, l,()v!l. Not far iil)((V(> lliis (Tcrk in ShawiuH'towii, a cotisi'lcrahlc villi^T of llliiioiH. (in>:it ipiaiititirM of salt aro iiiaiiur.icliirt'il on lliis crc»'k. (Jrantl I'icrrc (.'rotik, north, l,()H). Cinnhirland Hivcr, Hoiilh, l,(»7l. Thisisa very hnpori- aiit river of 'rciiiicsHco ami KriilncKy. 'rrnni'SHCP, sonlh, 1,(KH|. Thij, is hy i'ar th<> l:M;,'esl,an(l most itnpoitiint Irilmtary oi'thc Ohio. It watcrti ctmsidfralth- exlrnis of Al.iliania, Tt nncssro and Kentucky. Cash River, north, 1,1 -MK Month of tlic Oliio, l,l:W. It should he ol)S(>rv(>d, that the (hstaneed, as note,di is ()(H) yards wijle. At Cincinnati, wliich may be considered its mean width, it is not much nitire. Below the Cumlier- hind its avera^je width is 1,()(M) yards. Its valley is dei'p, and heavily timliercd, and has no where the sli;:;htest indication of jjrairie. It varies from two to ten miles in width. It is bounded in its whole course by blulVs, sonutimes towering sublimely from the shores of the river, and sometimes recediiijr two or three miles. Beyond the immediate verge of the bottom is a singidar line of hills, more or less precipitous, stretching from tive to ten miles from the banks. They are known on the Ohio by tlie familiar appellation of the 'Ohio hills.'' DilVerent estimates have boon made of the rapidity of its current. This rapidity being rontionally varying, it would be ditFicult to assign any very exact estimate. It is found, according to the tlilVorent stages of the water, to vary between one and three miles. In the lowest stages of the water in the autumn, a floating substance would, probably, not advance a mile an hour. It is subject to extreme elevations an 1 depressions. The average range between high and lev watrr, is fifty feet. Its lowest stage is in Feptcnv OHIO. .Jl)U licr; nnd if" hij^licst in Min Ii But il is siil-jcct to hikMpii ntir«vikiiit( lip ol'tlK' i<'«', i» HfC'iid i>f lii's laliiifi HDinctiliMM "riMiis; rinrl Ixcils mikI fvcry tiling in ItH (hhiisc :in> rtrrinl nW'iy l»jr liio !i» cHMuiliitcil |Mi\v»'r of the ire nml tlu' uatiM-. Ilsnvonifro dcsrt'nt in r» mil", is nut I'lr frotn six iiiclH'H. At (^'inel\S. One liall' of llie remainder of the year, nii mi av(!ratj«i it is ii ivi^nhle hy l;ir;,'e wtesini hnats in itswliidr eonrse. Tlie other half it can he navi^ritcd oasdy only hy stoani hoatsof asrnall drift of water. Sine(< thi; Konisvillc nnd Portland (*!iii:d has h(e, in the sprin;:, when it rolls alon^'lietwecn full hanks, or in the autumn, when l;el ween the ri|)ples it is calm nnd still, with hroad nnd clcin stind hars; or in the ripples, where its transparent waters ^dide rapidly <»ver the pi-hhly and shelly hot loin, showinj,' every thiiifj, as thron^di the transparency of iiir. The Ohio, and all its trihntaries cannot have less than 5,000 miles of hontahle waters; and faking all circumstances into consideration, few rivers in the world can vie with it either in utility, or beauty. TlicCireat Miami is the next largest and most interesting river of this state. It rises between 10° and 11° N. latitude, and interlocks with the Massissineway of the Wahasli, and the St. Mary's and An filaize, hranches of the Maumec, and the Scioto. It flows in n strong, hut generally sniMUh and unbroken current, and has a valley of uncommon width and fertility, though sometimes subject to inundation. From the west it receives Loramic's Creek, which enters it 100 miles above its mouth; and Still Water, 50 miles below, and White Wafer, 7 miles above its junction with the Ohio. Its principal eastern branch is Mad River, which rises in the northern part of Logan county, traversing that county and Clark, and the north-west corner of Green county. Its general direction is south- west; and the country through which it runs is singularly fertile and beautiful. The length of its course is something more than 50 nules. It enters the Miami just above the town of Dayton, and receives its name H^i^ '' 400 OHIO. from lU furious and broken current. Tlie chief branches of Mad River are East. Fork and King's Creek. Little Mianii rises in tlic south-west corner of Madison county, and in a south-west direction traverses Clark, Green, Warren and Hamilton counties; and joins the Oliio seven miles above Cincinnati. Tt is not of much imiKirtancc as a navigable stream ; but frouj the fertility of the lands on its borders, and its numerous mill seals, it is a river of great utility. There are nearly r)0 mills on it ; some of lliein paper mills, and other mills of importance. Its principal branches are East Branch, Shawnee, Obannon, Turtle, Todd's Fork, Ca;sar's and Massie's (.'reeks on the eastern side; and Goose and Beaver Ci-eek on the west. An hundred miles from its mouth, it has singular rapids, where the river in no great distance falls 200 feet. The stream is here compressed to ten yards in width. Tlie country between the Great and Little Miami is generally finely watered, liealthy, pleasant and fertile; and may be considered the garden of the state. Its C'lmmercial intercourse is with Cincinnati. In advancing towards the east from the Little Miami, we cross Big Indian Creek, White O.ik, Straight, Eagle, Bull Skin, Brush, and Turkey Creeks. The Scioto is a considerable river of the Ohio; and has its whole course in this state. It rises in a morass north of Logan county. Its general direction is south-east, and its whole course little short of '^(H) miles. It enters the Ohio by a mouth !;")() yards wide, and is navigable, in good stages of the water, 130 miles. Its principal branches are Whct- etone, Big Walnut, Lower Walnut, and Salt Creeks, from the east, and Paint, Deer, Darby, Mill and Baker's Creeks, from the west. Not far above Columbus, on the bank, is an inexhaustible (juarryof free stone, or marble, of a beautiful grayish color. There are rich and beautiful ])rai- ries on this river; and its valley is uncommonly wide and fertile. When it was first settled it proved to be extremely sickly. In the progress of cultivation that character has passed away; and the Scioto country is now among the most fertile, eligible, and pleasant parts of the state. Colum- bus, the political capital of the slate, and Chillicothe, which was until recently so, are on this river; and there are many pleasant villa^fes, and much well settled country on it and its waters. The country between the Scioto and the Muskingum is w-atered by tlie Great Ilockhocking and its waters. It enters the Ohio 150 miles above the mouth of the Scioto, and is navigable for boats to Athens, 40 miles from its mouth. It has a deep and still, but narrow channel. Near its source, 7 miles north of Lancaster, is a romantic cascade of 40 feet perpendicular. It has a number of mills erected on it. Its chief tribu- taries are Rush, Sunday, Monday, Margaret's and Federal Creeks. cs of Mail River » coiinly, atid in Ml and llainiltdn :ili. [l is not of tilily of the lands of great utility. and other mills of lawnee, Obannon, the eastern side; ed miles from its reat distance fulls in width. The ly fmely watered, the garden of the imi, we cross 15ig Jriish, and Turkey )hio; and has its )f Logan county, little short of :i()0 , and is navigahlo, jranchcs are Whet- Vom the east, and he west. Not far ry of free stone, or nd beautiful prai- nd fertile. When In the progress of oto country is now he state. Colum- e, which was until asant villunfes, and (1 is w^atered hy tlic 3 150 miles above ) Athens, 40 miles channel. Near its iscadc of 40 feet t. Its chief tribu- leral Creeks. .£»' OHIO. 401 The Muskingum rises niear the sources of the Cuyahoga of lake Erie in the southern part of Connecticut Reserve. Its course is remarkably sinuous; but its general direction is southwardly. It traverses Stark, Tuscarawas, Coshocton, Muskingum, Morgan and Washington counties, and enters the Ohio at Marietta, by a mouth 250 yards wide. It is beatable, in good stages of the water, to Coshocton, 100 miles by the course of the river. Small crafts ascend it to a portage cf one mile to the boatable water.? of Cuyahoga of lake Erie. There are considerable falls in the river at Zanesville, which uffovd sites for many mill seats. Some parts of the course of the Muskingum are through a hilly country. The principal branches are Licking, White Woman's, Willis', Wolf, Coal, Olive, Green, Meigs, Salt, Jonathan, Wakatomka, Still Water, Sugar, Coneter, Nimishillen, and Indian Creeks. Above Coshocton the river itself is generally called Tuscarawas. In the intervals of the precipitous country along this river, the lands are fine ; and the country is remarkable for health. Several considerable creeks enter the Ohio, between the Muskingum and the Pennsylvania line, such as Pawpaw, Little Muskingum, Indian, Wheeling, Captina, Stony, and Sunfish. These arc the principal rivers that enter the Ohio and its waters. But the table lands of this state have a general inclination either to the Ohio, or to lake Erie ; and a number of considerable rivers run from the northern belt of this table land into lake Erie. The principal of these is the Maumee. The Maumee rises in the north-eastern angle of the state of Indiana; and flows in a north-eastern direction across the north-western borders of the state of Ohio into the western extremity of lake Erie. It is navigable 33 miles from its mouth. The navigation is there obstructed by shoals and rapids. It is a broad, deep stream, with an average width from 150 to 200 yards, and is formed by the confluence of the St. Joseph's, St. Mary's and the Great and Little Au Glaize. This important river has a course of 100 miles. Fort Meigs, a fortification of much note in the late war, is on this river. It has a valuable fishery, and its banks, in the season of vegetation, are remarkable for the luxuriance of their verdure. The St. Joseph's of this river heads in Indiana, is a considerable stream, and boatable 50 miles. The St. Mary's, another of its branches, has a long course of boatable navigation. The Au Glaize is a considerable stream, that passes through the Indian country, and falls into the Maumee at Fort Winchester, 50 miles below Fort Wayne. Touissaint River enters the lake 20 miles east of the Maumee. It may rather be considered an arm of the lake than a river . It rises in the prairie, has no perceptible current, and is choked with wild rice, aquatic plants, and grass. In summer it abounds with wild fowls. Otters and muskrats are trapped &1 % t, Pf . 1 m^ :l 408 OHIO. in great numbers by the Indians on it. Porlawc is an inconsider.ible river heading not far from Urbana. Like most of the rivers, that riseinlhesp level lands, and Hill into the lake, it has very little current, and is 150 yards wide at its mouth. The Sandusky rises in the western limits of Richland county, and runs in a general north-west direction, 90 miles to the lake. It is more rapid than the other lake streams; l;ut yet nflords pnod navigation. Its chief branches are Tyemochtee, Honey, and Wolf Creeks. Between this river and the Scioto, is a portage of only four miles. It has been proposed to canal this portage. There are fine bodies of land on the banks of this stream. Huron f dls into the lake by a mouth 50 yards wide. Its comparative course is 30 miles. Rocky River is a stream of considerable importance. The lands on its banks are fine, and it lias a rich and thriving settlement. Cuyahoga rises in the central parts of Geauga county, and passes through Portage and Cuyahoga counties, entering the lake at Cleaveland. Its whole course is 60 miles, greater part of which distance it is boatable. Above where it is boatable it has valuable mill seats. Cleaveland, which has become a place of importance, is at its mouth. ,, Chagrin, Grand, Ashtabula, and Coneaught are considerable streams, that rise near the lake, run northwardly, and fall into it. Ohio is the country of hills and vales, delightfully irrigated with springs, brooks, and rivers of every class and size. There are more than an hundred streams not here enumerated, which, for seven months in the year, cany a consid- erable mass of waters. A remark, applicable to the whole western coun- try, applies to this state, that a great number of considerable streams during the winter months, disappear before the evaporating ardors of the summer^s sun. Minerals, and Mineral Springs. In the eastern and north-eastern divisions of this state, on the Muskingum, Hockhocking and Scioto, min- eral coal abounds, and it has an extensive and rich coal region. It is in the gi-eatest abundance, and of the best quality. It so happens, that in the same region are found the greatest bodies of iron ore. Nature seems to have furnished the industrious people of this state with every possible facility for important and staple manufactures. Limestone, marble, and free stone, in strata easy to quarry, near the surface, and admirably adapt- ed to building and public works, abound. The useful earths and fossils are in abundance. Specimens of gypsum are procured from Sandusky bay. Salt springs are common. In some the water contains almost as much salt as that of the sea. The most important manufactures of this article are in Musiiingum, Morgan, Jackson, and Gallia counties. Nearly hal a million bushels are manufactured in the state. Those s|)rings ^ r*: f'f*' ■^ OHIO. 403 whose waters are drunk as medicinal, are most of them more or less im- piL'L'iiated with muriate of soda. « TIic Yellow Sj)rin ^IJF im OHIO. l! soil, being deep and clayey, the travelling is njuddy and uncomfortfiMc. The winters arc sometimes considerably severe, and the Ohio has been crossed at Cincinnati for nine weeks. Oftentimes they are mild, and can scarcely be said to be more than a prolongation of autumn and spring. Winter seldom commences in severity until Christmas, and its severity is generally mitigated early in February. Vegetation, which is the most certain and accurate thermometer, indicates a temperature of greater mildness in the season, than in the corresponding latitudes in the Atlantic The heat of the summer in the Ohio valley is uniformly oppressive, buf does not commence early, nor continue late in the season. The heat of summer abates as early in the autumn, as in the more northern latitudes in the Atlantic country. The autumns are almost uniformly temperate, dry, and beautifid ; and nothing can exceed them for health and pleasant- ness. No where in the world is the grand autumnal painting of tlic forests in the decay of vegetation, seen in more beauty than in the beech forests of Ohio. The richness of the fading colours, and the effect of the mingling hues, baffles all description. A great farming community like that of Ohio, could scarcely desire a better climate for themselves, their cattle and stock of all kinds ; or one, in which a man can work abroad with comfort a greater number of days in the year. Antiquities. We have space to add but little upon this subject. The most remarkable are at Worthington, Granville, Athens, Marietta, Galli- opolis. Paint Creek, Circleville, and on the Little Miami. The domestic utensils, pottery, vases and trinkets of the inhabitants, who, probably, reared them, are found in and about the mounds. The instruments of their warfare are discovered, too, and give clear indications that they cul- tivated the horrid art of shedding human blood. Most of the human bones, which are dug in great quantities from the mounds, moulder on exposure to the air. The skulls in most instances remain, and great numbers are shown in the museums. They evidence a surprising variety in the retreat of the facial angle of the skulls. It is affirmed, that marks of iron tools are found upon the wood dug up from considerable depths below the surface of the prairies. A sword is preserved, as a curiosity, which is said to have been enclosed in the wood of the roots of a tree which could not have been less than 500 years old. We have not seen this sword ; but we have seen a diminutive iron horse shoe, dug up at a depth of 25 feet below the surflice, in graduating the street near the mansion of Judge Burnet, in Cincinnati. It was smaller than the kind of shoe, required for the smallest kind of asses. A number of the nails were in it, and the erosion by rust was such as might be expected to result from the oxidation of 500 years. Many of the mounds are com- posed of different earths from that, which is found in their vicinity. It #; M OHIO. 405 is the most inexplicable of all the mysterious circumstances connected with these mounds, that the material of these immense structures, some of which would require the labor of a thousand men for some time in the erection, should have been brought from a distance. There is no conceiv- able motive why the earth, on which the mounds rest, should not have subserved all purposes, that we can imagine the builders to have had in view. We know with what scrupulous care the Jews throw a little of the earth of the holy land into the graves of their friends. Possibly this transfer of earth for the mounds, from a distance, may have reference to atfccting remembrances, like those of the Jews. We have elsewhere described the most remarkable mounds at Circleville. Engravings of its form may be seen in books, that treat professedly upon this subject. Population. By the census of 1820 there were 130,400 men, over 18 years, capable of bearing arms. At the same time 110,091 persons were engaged in agriculture; 18,056 in manufactures, and 1,459 in commerce or merchandize. There were 3,495 foreigners, not naturalized. No colony in history has ever shown a greater natural increase in population. No country can show a greater number of young children, in proportion to the whole number of th«; inhabitants. Among the obvious causes of this great increase may be mentioned the circumstan«:e of there being no slavery allowed in Ohio. The climate is, unquestionably, healthy. The state is divided into moderately sized freeholds. Most of the people are engaged in the healthy and vigorous pursuits of agriculture. The soil yields, in the greatest profusion, all that is necessary for healthy and comfortable subsistence. Wiiatover be the cause, the multitudes o f children, that are seen about the farm houses in the country, and that fill the streets of the villages and towns, do not fail to excite the remark of every passing traveller. Religion. In our table of religious denominations, see appendix, we have given general views of the comparative numbers of the different religious denominations. There are numbers of all the known existing sects. But the Presbyterians and Meth.idists are the prevalent denomin, ations. The Shakers and Tunkers have establishments in this state. German Lutherans exist in considerable numbers. Most people are desirous of being thought to belong to some religious denomination- It is affirmed by a gentleman, well known for his researches into the anti" quities of this state, that there is a greater number of professors of religion, in proportion to the whole number of the people, than in any state in the Union. There are a vast number of religious societies; but til ere is not a great number, that have regularly established pastors. The custom of itenerating preaching, as a supply, is very prevalent. The people are generally a (luiet, orderly, peaceable, moral and industrious race. Suicide, excesses, murders in affray, and instances of deliberate f 400 OHIO. and atrocious cruelty, are rare ; and the general moral character of the people is highly respectable. In a country so fresh, much taste for cmhcllishnicnt or improvement in the fine arts, cannot be reasonably expected. From New England and New Jersey this state inherits a passion for sacred music; and societies for the promotion of this delightful science are common. A vast number of Ne^^ England music masters find annual employment in their vocation. There appears, also, to be a general taste for instrumental music; as is manifested in seeing in great numbers of the farm houses and cabins, rude harps and other home manufactured instruments of music. In passing the detached dwellings of the Ohio farmers in the winter evenings, we generally hear the interior cheered with some kind of music. A taste for ornament, and those arts, which embellish society and existence, is evidently increasing. On anniversaries, the people are addicted to show, parade and splendor. There is a fondness fir a large and stately house. Gardening is studied in many places; and Cincinnati shows a number of gardens, that will vie with almost any in the United States. An idea of the means of diffusing information may be gathered from the fact, that more than 80 newspapers are printed in the state, and that it has 504 post oflSces. § Trade and Manvfaciurcs. This state, more populous than any other in the West, and possessing in many respects manufacturing capabilities, has taken precedence of all the rest in manufactures. Cotton yarn, cloth and woollen goods, are already manufactured to a considerable extent. Cincinnati contains a great mass of intelligent and enterprising manu- facturers. Steubenville, Zanesville, Chillicothe, Dayton, and many other of the young and rising towns are commencing manufactures with great spirit. In 1810, the manufactures of the state amounted to nearly two millions of dollais. At present they must amount to triple that sum. From a single township 175 tons of cheese worth 20,000 dollars was exported in one year. The whole amount of taxable property is rated at sixty-two million dollars. Colleges and Seminaries. In a laudable zeal to advance science and education, it is a question, if this and the other western states have not been too fond of multiplying colleges, or small institutions so called, built upon principles naturally tending to rouse a spirit of unworthy emu- lation, to the neglect of respectable commo . ^s '.ools, efficient high U schools, and one or two universities with endowments, library, apparatus J|' and professorships to furnish to the means of a finished classical educa- tion, yet a desideratum in the western country. While the most enlight- ened nations in Europe are content with three or four universities, we have at least 50 colleges in the western country. .5^ UIIIO. 407 Ohio, preceding all her sister stales in the manifestation of an enlight- ened ze;il to adviince education, lias not been behind them in chartering colleges. Miami university is situated in Oxford, near the western extremity of Ohio, and 40 miles north-west from Cincinnati. It has an academical department and a preparatory school. It has one spacious building, and others afipropriaied to boarders, a competent number of professors, and about 50 students in all the departments. The position is healthy, and tuition cheap. It has consequently became a considerable resort of students from other states. The annual income of its funds is about 2,500 dollars. Ohio university at Athens has respectable endowments and buildings nnd ordinarily a number of students not much inferior to that of the Minmi institution. Its endowments consist of two townships of land. Kenyon colleife at Camlier, an episcopal institution, has arisen in the midst of what was recently a orest in the central parts of the state It has one mr.gnificcnt building, and others of less magnitude with ample funds and endowments, amounting to 50,000 dollars and 140 students. The Western Reserve college at Hudson has been recently established in the north-eastern division of the state. Connected with it is an academy, in which are 30 students. The manual labor plan is in exper- iment here. Franklin college at New Athens is in successful operation. A commo- dious building sufficient to accommodate 140 students has just been completed. The Worthington Reformed Medical College at Worthington has a considerable number of medical students. Two rival medical colleges at Cincinnati have recently been merged in one, which has one spacious building, and another of equal beauty, and extent erecting. In buildings, library, apparatus and professorships it is highly respectable, and has had on an average 100 medical students. The Lane Theological seminary has recently been organized, two miles distant from Cincinnati. It is under the care of the Presbyterian churchy and has been endowed with funds estimated at 30,000 dollars. The position is healthy and delightful, and the number of the students in- creasing. There are 15 or 20 academies, and as each session of the legislature incorporates new ones, we cannot be precise in imparting information upon this subject. An academical institute of some celebrity exists at Marietta. An academy, not long since incorporated at Urbana, has a large number of pupils. There are academies at Barton, New Lisbon, ii ''W m mm wmm «p 408 k^ OHIO. Sleubcnville, Cadiz, Union, Galliopolis, Chillicothe, and Daylon. A very respectable High School has recently been organized at Cincinnati, The first introduction of tlie New England system of common schools in the western country was in Ohio, and dates in liSliS. By dillicient amendatory enactmenls it has acquired a degree of form and consistenfy, and the thoughts and usages of the people are growing to a gradual adaptation to it. The example, it is hoped, will be followed by the otlier western states and the foundation laid for unspeakable blessings to the generations to come. By this act the trustees of every incorporated township are required to divide it into a suitable number of school districts) the prudential concerns of which are to be managed by three sclujoi directors, a clerk and treasurer. The funds for this vast system arise from various sources besides the easy tax of one mill upon a dollar, constituting a large and growing revenue. It was at first found discord- ant with the habits and likings of portions of the population. This odium of prejudice is wearing away, and the system is going into efticiont and noiseless oi)eration. In Cincinnati alone it has provided instruction for 3,000 children, in well organized schools, many of whom, but for this provision, would probably have grown into life without a common sciiool education. A general interest in literature is making visible progress in this great state. An asylum for the deaf and dumb has been established at Columbus, which promises much to that suftering class of the population. Chief Toiv^ns, This state possesses over 100 considerable villages. Of many we have space but for little more than the names. Cincinnati, the chief town of this state, and next to New Orleans of the western country, is situated on the north shore of the Ohio, nearly in the south-west angle of the state. Its position is a beautiful vale 12 miles in circumference, created by an elliptical sweep of Ohio hills. Those of them, that have not been laid bare by the unsparing axe, are beautifully wooded to their summits ; and by the swell and indentation of their waving outline present the most graceful and charming forms. From the summit of any of these hills, the town spreads a panoramic map of exquisite painting. The eye traces every street, with its smokes, fixtures and moving life, from which all the roughnessof inception, softened by distance, disappears. The noble establishments, the handsome mansions, the extending masses of buildings, the numerous manufactures propelling their columns of black smoke aloft, the boat yards, the bustling inhabitants with the hundred teams and drays, the Ohio winding along the southern limit, and itself enlivened by passing crafts, and stately steam boats, rotjnding to the shore, or departing from it, the villages of Newport and Covington with their showy houses and manuflictures ■'^^mimnmrK oiiio. 400 at Columbus. oil tlio Koiiliicky biiiik tjf llio Oliio, tukon lcj,'olli('r, uilcr auch ;i j)ictiiro of beauty, Nvoallh, piof;r( ss and IVosli advance, as (V'w landscapes in any country can surpass. Its first .scltlcincut was in 17S0, but it was not lintin^'^<"^?>'''»l'i''""^itlf''';'blc parldCtbc [ rcFcnt Inwn i»loltbat surrounded Fort UiiB!iin<.Mon, and belonf^od to tbc <.'ovLMi!nietif, was sold in lols. A more elc(.Mblo position for a town can scarcely bo imagined. Tbo chief area consists of two parallel pbiinn, the ono elevated (>() feet above the other, and descending to it by a gentle and ffrailuated slope, afTording admirable facilities for washing the to.vn by every considerable rain, and sloping it to tlio eye in the graceful form of an amphitheatre, and at tho Same time furnishing it with every pleasing variety of site for building. One of the chief beauties of this city is obvii.u.s to every eye, which, however, wc have not seen recorded. The streets crossing each other at right angles, and being straight and uninteirtipted, present vistas bounded by the wooded acclivities of the surrounding hills. !?y a well known optical illusion, these swelling hillsides, seen through a vista, narrowing in apparent width, in proportion to its distance from the eye, iill the imglo of vision, aud preclude the perception of any distance between the termi- nation of the street and the commencement ef the bills. 1 n conscc|uonce, through whatever street the beholder looks, it seems to 1 e clcscd by a gate of verdure, and to terminate in a forest. Seven of the streets are ttO feet wide, and 3fK> apart, iiifersccted by streets of the same width and distance at right angles. One entire scpiaro, and tlie fraction of another, are reserved in central parts of the city for public buildings. The city buildings cover an irregular area nearest the form of a parallelagram. The central parts arc compactly built with houses and stores, that would ornament any town. The most showy quarters are Main, Broadway, arul Fourth street westward from its inter- section with Main. Pearl street nearly completed, leading from tho lower Market to Walnut street, is composed of uniform liuildings, termi- nated by a magnificent Hotel, five stories liigli, and will add greatly to the beauty uf that part of the city. The public buildings are a Court house, jail, four market houses, one of them HOO feet in length, the Bazaar, U. S. Branch Bank, the Cincinnati College, the C.iiho'ic Athenajum, tho Medical College, for which a second spacious and conunodious building is erecting, the Mechanics Institute!, Theatre, aiul a second one erecting, two Museums, the Hospital and Lunatic Asylum, and the Woodward High School in the progress of erection. Some other public buildings are in contemplation. Beside these, there are 21 churches, great and small. Of these the Second Presbyterian church is the handsomest, tho exleiior l-eing of agreeable architecture, and the ii lie) lor decidotlly beautiful. The Unita- 52 ■t ■r^t^ jati no OHIO rian church is a aiiiRnlarly neat ono. The interior of tho Catholic church is striking. Tho first ami third Prcsytcrian cliurchcsarespacioim buildings, as the new Methodist church will l)c, when complete;!. A very neat Baptist church is nearly completed. 8ome of the other churches make a respectable appearance. There arc many fine blocks of stores on Front and Main streets, and tho eye is arrested by many beautiful private habitations. Architec- tural taste is daily becoming more enlightened and ngrecablc. Tiio dull red of tho brick walls is giving way to nu)rc pleasing shadcH hctweeti white and green; and a beautiful stucco imitating marble and granite is getting into fashion. The number of substantial buildings added annu- ally to the city for tinco years past averages 4.30. It has already become a great manufacturing town, and is constantly becoming more so. Our limits preclude details; but all the substantial manufactures known in our country are carried on to a greater or leas extent. The manufactures in iron are very ^ reat, particularly in the article of heavy castings, and all sorts of machinery driven by steam. Of such establishments there arc 9 or 10, and pome of them on a great 4cale. The next most extcnsvc article is cabinet xvork. Steam boat building is a great item. Hatting is pursued to a great extent. It is believed, that the city contains at least 40 different manufacturing estab- lishments driven by steam power. Being the importing and exporting depot for more than a million inlubiidnts, this city transacts an immense business particularly, in the retailing and manufacturing line. The imports, in which dry goods arc the principal item, exceed five million dollars. The amount of exports, consisting of the various articles of produce, of which pork is the chief, and of manufactures, of which iron articles and cabinet furniture are the chief, probably exceed the imports. No town of its size irx ihe iJ. S. produces a more respectable show of all the different classes of mechanics, arranged under their respective standards on the fourth of July. One hundred and eleven steam boats have been built here, at the rate of about 15 a year for the last three years. The city revenue of 1831 was 35,231 dollars, and the expendi. tares 33,858. There are two banks, a branch of the U. S. bank, capital 1,200,000, and the Commercial bank, capital 500,000. Beside these there is a Savings bank. There are three Insurance Companies belonging to the city, and two branches of insurance companies at Hartford, Connecticut. The water company supplies the city with water from the Ohio, raised by steam power to reservoirs 158 feet above low water mark on the side of one of the Ohio hills; whence it is distributed over the town, at an average expense of 8 dollars a year for a common family's supply, The a^: ont<». m otiicr cliu relics tiiy fiiriii.iliiM lli:«'.' d.iily yu/.L'ltca, t\V(»»tiui-wockly,Hi.\ Mokly, ol ^\c\\ Ibui' uro voliiri'.iiis; two F.'ini-monthly, cn(! montlily imgazino, ai^'ono mniillily n;;ticiiltiinil jinpor, r.ndoiio (prirlorly journtil of moilicinc, mak- in'i in nil ll» iKirio.Iiciils. 'J'liiity-two tiKiiln iinivo in ii week, and the jwdI (mTico iiniiual n.'ccij'f;-, tanoimt lo l'.5,'-''.(l (ioliirs There nrc two lii-j coniinniea, an;! ;> I c'liirif;il)le societies, the means, intcilijLfcnce, :intl cliarity ol" v.Iiivii, if iiici; .-d in one society, would pr(il)ai)ly itcliiovoinoro good ;jiin tlic lliirly-fonr. 'J'licro nro 25 religious socielios, in \vlii(;li most oi' lli« rcli^/ions opinions of Christendom aro represented, r.nd whose; nintti;,l wat( lifidness oi' each other educes con- cord from jealoiiHy, hy Inn lorin:,' the hurtl'id predominance of any one of tlioni, and ena!;lini{ each lo pursue its respective interests unmolested and ip peace. TlK>p)pulati,)n in \iUi> was li5,'2'5l); in 1S-.29 •21,'1();-); in 1830 2«,r>15; and by n very nrcuratecnnm(;ralion in I'-'.'ll, 'iH,()M, with a floating pop- ulation m.t include. 1 of \y)W, nu-.kii)^' the total at this time more than 30,000. Tliiiu'jh the imporfccl fi'linj:? out of the nian of the [m'sent fr ^4 If!'-?' 41G OHIO. %' ^h I » ■ * ft **■ in the township, 2,183 inliabitants. It has four merchant, and four sm? mills, a paper mill, two woollen factories, a fulling mill and carding ma chine. It is situated 5(5 miles north-westefly from Pittsburgh, and 100 tiorth-easterly from Columbus. N. latitude 40° 40', W. longitude 3^ 62'. Galliopelis is the chief town of Gallia county. It has a court house, jail, two churches, academy, three steam mills, a printing office, 80 houses, and 12 stores. It was originally settled by French immigrants. They had been deceived by speculators; and suffered severely by bilious fevers, in becoming acclimated. Some left in discouragement, many died, and the number of tlie original French settlers is small. St. Clairsville is an inland town, the county town of Belmont county, and is situated on elevated ground, surrounded by hilly, but fertile lands, It has a court house, jail, market house, printing office, a bank, 15 ^orcs, and 800 inhabitants. It is on the great road from Wheeling to Cincinnati, and distant 11 miles west from the former place. Portsmouth, the chief town of Scioto county, is situated on the eastern bank of the Scioto, just above its junction with the Ohio. A great amount of commission business for the Scioto country is done here; and the position for internal commerce with the state is exceedingly advan tageous. There is a bank, court house, jail, printing office, 18 stores, a book store, four commission stores, one druggist, 20 mechanical estal- lishments, two churches, a steam mill, a market house, and 1,063 inhab- itants. The great Ohio Canal here communicates with the Ohio, wliicli must at once render this town a place of great consequence. It is 45 miles south of Chillicothe, and 90 in the same direction from Columbus. N. latitude 38° 48', W. longitude 5° 53'. Circleville, on the east bank of the Scioto, is the county town of Pick- away county. In the limits of the town are two Indian mounds, the one square and the other circular. The town derives its name from being chiefly built in the limits of the circular mound. These mounds are among the most interesting in the western country, and are described elsewhere. The town contains a handsome court house, a printing office, market house, 10 stores, and various mechanic shops. The rich Picka way plains or prairies are near this place . The adjacent wooded lands oi Lower Walnut Creek are equally rich; and this town, central to such extents of fertile soil, must become of importance. The Ohio Canal passes, and here crosses the Scioto by the largest aqueduct on the line of the canal. It has recently exhibited a rapid progress, and contains 1,100 inhabitants. It is situated twenty miles south of Columbus, nineteen north of Chillicothe, and twenty miles west of liancaster. N. latitude 39o26',W. longitude 5" 53'. m OHIO. 417 ice, 80 houses, Urbana is tlie county town of Chainpfiiwne county, near Mad River. It contains a court house, jail, printing oflice, a Methodist ;ui(i Prcsby- iBfian church, a market house, '.) stores, 120 houses, tmd 1,{){Y,1 inhabit- ants. It is distant 13 miles north-west from Columbus. N. latitude 40° 3', W. longitude (5° 4'. Xenia, the county town of Green county, is situated on Shawnee Creek, and contains a court house, jail, three churches, two printing offices, 10 stores, and 910 inhabitants. It is distant 50 miles south-west from Columbus . Dayton, the chief town of Montgomery county, is charmingly situated on the eastern bank of the Great Miami, just below the confluence of Mad River, near where the Mijuni Canal connects with the Miami. The waters of Mad River are artificially conducted from that river to the Miami, so as to afford a great number of mill scats. It contains 235 houses, and 135 slio])s and stores, total 370; four churches, a court house, a market house, and jail. In 1810 the popula- tion was 383; in 1820 1,130; in 1830 2,034. The population of the township is 6,583. In 1828 70 buildings were erected, and probably a greater number last year. No town in the state afibrds more extensive water privileges, which are partly occupied by a number of saw mills, grist mills, cotton factories, and vai'ious sorts of machinery moved by water. The striking increase of its prosperity is owing to its being the termin- ating point of the Miami Canal, connecting it with Cincinnati. It is central to a rich and populous agricultural country, the trade of which this town commands. It is expected that the canal will lie continued to lake Erie. It is situated 6S miles south-west from Columbus, and 52 by land, and 67 by the canal from Cincinnati. N. latitude 30° 40'. Lebanon is the county town for Warren county. It is Ictwecn two small branches of Turtle Creek. It has the usual j)ublic buildings, two churches of brick, and a jail of stone, two market houses, a bank, a printing office, and a respectable social library. The surrcu nding country has fine land. It contained in 1820, 1,070 inhabitants. It is distant 80 miles south-westerly from Columbus; and 30 miles north-easterly from Cincinnati. N. latitude 39° 25' , W. longitude 7° 5'. Athens is the county town of Athens county. It is situated on an elevated bluff in a bend of the ITockhocking, in a position equally beau- tiful and healthy. In this village is located the Ohio University. Theit; is already erected for the accommodation of this institution a handsome edifice three stories high. The funds, the library, and philosophical ap- paratus are respectable; and it promises to be an institution of great utility to the interests of the literature of the slate. 'J'ho town contains 53 n '/ih*r %m # 418 OHIO. ■J*' *5* 40 houses, a number of stores, a court, house, a jail, and has several mills on the river in its vicinity, and 750 inhabitants. It is 73 miles south- east from Columbus, 41 westerly from Marietta, and 52 east from Chilh- cothe. N. latitude 39° 23', W. longitude 5° 5'. Cleaveland, situated on the southern shore of lake Erie, is the county town of Cuyahoga county. Its position is at the mouth of Cuyahoga River. During the late war, it was a depot of provisions; and a place where many boats, and lake crafts were built; and it is a noted point of embarkation on the lake. It is a growing place, having four churches, a court house, jail, an academy, 180 houses, 40 stores, 9 groceries, 6 taverns, and 1,200 inhabitants. It is distant 130 miles westward from Pittsburgh, and 150 north-easierly from Columbus. N. latitude 41° 31', W. longitude 4° 44'. The great Ohio Canal here connects with the lake, and passes through the central parts of Ohio, preserving for some distance a course parallel to the Scioto; and finally connecting with the Ohio near the mouth of that river. This town, intermediate between Buffalo and Cincinnati, ^nd the depot of the vast amounts of merchandise destined east and west, will not fail soon to become an important town. Sandusky, in Huron county, on the southern shore of Sandusky Bay, is one of the most important ports on Lake Erie. Its area rises gradually from the lake, of which, its passing sails, and the surrounding country it commands a charming view. Though a new place it has ten stores, a printing office, the xisual number of mechanic establishments, public houses, a ship yard, a rope walk and 9 wharves. This is one of the chief points of landing and embarkation between the Mississipi valley and New York, Buffalo and Detroit. In 1828, 1,319,823 dollars worth of mer- chandise was landed here. In 1830 there were over 500 arrivals at this port, and about 2,000 wagons dispatched with dry goods and groceries for all points of the Ohio and Mississippi country below. A turnpike, now constructing will connect this town with Columbus. It is distant 70 miles south from Detroit, 230 south-west from Buffalo, 60 west from Cleaveland, and 106 north from Columbus. N. latitude 41° 27'. The principal harbors on Lake Erie, are Put-in-Bay, Maumee Bay, Fair Port, and Ashtabula Creek. Ashtabula, a post town of Ashtabula county, is situated two miles from the entrance of Ashtabula River into the lake, and has a post office, tavern, two churches, a weekly newspaper, and five stores. A turnpike connects it with Warren, the seat of justice for Trumbull county. A sloop loaded with a certain kind of boards for clock making, departed from this place down the lake, the New- York canal, the Hudson and .4fc 41 OHIO 410 Long-Island Sound, and arrived after a passage of 25 days at New-Haven, Connecticut. A Schooner, burtlien 49 tons, departed from Huron county and arrived at New-York. Baltimore, in Fairfield county, 25 miles south-cast from Columbus, is situated on the Oliio and Erie canal, and has grown to be a respectable village within the three past years. It already contains 200 houses, six stores, a great number of mechanic establishments, and 500 inhab- itants. Massillon, in Stark county, on tlie east branch of Tuscarawas, was laid out in 1826, and grew into immediate consequence from being for a considerable time the termination of the Ohio and Erie canal. It contains a printing office, eight stores, two merchant (lour mills, four ware houses, and a woollen factory. It is 111 miles north-east from Columbus. Newark is the county town of Licking county. It is the present termi- nation of the Ohio and Pjrie canal, 176 miles distant from its outlet in lake Erie. It contains 250 houses, 10 stores, five taverns, two printing offices, two ware houses, a market house, a church, and the usual county buildings. It is 33 miles north of Columbus. Canton, the county town for Stark county, contains 200 dwelling houses, 215 families, 1496 inhabitants; two printing offices, two churches, six schools, five ministers, 15 stores, and the usual number of mechanic shops. It is 120 miles north-east of Columbus i Warren, New Philadelphia, Wooster, Mansfield, Coshocton, Somerset, Delaware, Worthinglon, Franklinton, Hillsboro, Pikelon, Springfield, Pickaway, Troy, Euton, Hamilton, and New Richmond, are most of them county towns, and some of them will compare in size with those we have mentioned. Fifty other incipient villages might be named, which are rapidly growing to consequence, and which, seen by the traveller, excite surprize, that ho has not heard tliem named. Such is the march of town making and population, that the scene is shifting under the eye, and the descrip- tion of towns and villages, that is accurate this year, may be wide from accuracy the next. Another inconvenience results from this order of things. Towns are originated in such numbers and rapidity, as to have outgrown the invention of the founders. For example, there are 19 townships of the name of Jefferson, find 24 of the name of Washington. Other names of places are repeated from four to ten times. While this circumstance is imfavorable to tho right direction of missives sent by mail, it argues strongly (he matter of fact character of the people, who can make fields, towns, mills, and legislators, easier than the latter ran task their invention for names. 1 ^[^ 420 OHIO. The following military positione occur so often in the history of lhi§ state, that wo deem it important to give their relative position. Fort DcPancc is situnted at the junclion of Au Glaizo and Maumce rivers, 50 miles sout!i-wcst of Fort IMci/:,'s. Fort Loniniic is on the head waters of the Big Miami, and one of the boundary positions referred to in the Greenville treaty. Fort Mei^js was eroctctl in 1813, on the south-eastern bank of the Maumce, a few niiled from il.s mouth, at the lower rapids of the river; distant southerly from Detroit, 70 miles. It is noted for the siege, which it sustained from the British and Indians in April and May 1813. Fort Recovery was established by general Wayne. The disas- trous defeat of our troops commanded by general St. Clair, by the Indians, occurred here, in 1795. It is situated 2.'3 miles northwardly of Fort Loramie. Fort Greenville is one of the most noted points in the history of Ohio; and was one of the fust fortificp.lions erected in the country. It is in the present limits of Darke county, and a few miles east of the western hmits of this state. Here, in 179rj, was concluded the celebrated treaty of general Wayne with the savages, after his memorable victory over them. From this treaty, the country began to increase in population. Roads and Canals. The common public roads, as might be inferred, are too numerous to be named. Tiio country being level, they seldom have the inconvenience of being hilly; but the soil being deep and loamy, and most of them little wrought, in wet weather and in winter they are exceedingly bad. There are five considerable turnpikes, beside many shorter ones. The length of the first is 10 miles; of the second 48; of the third 51 ; of the fourth lOG. This connects Sandusky with Columbusj and is not yet complete. The fifth is the McAdamized road leading from Cincinnati to the interior, of which the first division only is completed. The national road is completed 30 or 40 miles west from the Ohio; and is McAdamized in the best manner. The grand canal, connecting Lake Erie and the Ohio, passes nearly through the centre of the state, from Cleaveland on the lake to Ports- mouth on the Ohio. The whole distance is 306 miles Lateral cuts are made, or making, amounting to 40 miles more. The canal is of the same depth, and dimensions and construction with the great New-York canal. It is nearly completed, and will be in full operation in 1832. This WQjiderful work of uniting the waters of the Mississippi and Atlan- tic has already imparted a new aspect to the country, through which it passes, and has in many places quadrupled the value of the land near its course. .„.; The Miami canal, 07 miles in length, connects Cincinnati with Dayton. To this a considerable lateral cut is expected to be made from Lebanon. Others are in contemplation. Those noble and beautiful modes of trans- t OHIO. 421 jwrt will soon siiperaoile tlu? draught of boasts of bnnlen on deep and muddy roads, inallpr;icticai)le directions. Tlio cost of these canals will be between three and four millions of dollars. Surveys have hceii made, :uul grants of land iVoni the General Gov- ernment obtained for continuinn[ the Dayton Canal to Jj-ake Erie. Militia. Few descriptions of tlic inhabitants arc exempted from mili- tary duty. The militia of this state is principally composed of hardy agriculturists, and exceeds 10{),000 men. Penitentiary. This establishment, at Columbus, is a humane and efficient one. Of the great numbers, who have been confined here nearly half have been pardoned out. Government. 'The k\<:fisl!itive authority is vested in a Senate and House of Representatives, both of which, collectively, are styled the General Assembly of Ohio. The members of both branches are elected by counties, or districts composed of counties, according to population. The representatives are chosen fur one year; and for eligilulity a man must be at least 25 years of age, have resided in the state at least one year, and paid a tax. TJieir numl)er m\ist never exceed 72 nor be less than 36. The Senate is composed of members elected for two years, who must not exceed one half, nor fall short of one-third of the number in the House of Representatives. The present numbers are 33 Senators, and 69 Representatives. A Senator nnist be at least 30 years of age, and have resided two years in the district from which he is chosen. The General Assembly has the sole power of enacting all the state laws; the assent or signature of the Governor not being necessary in any case what- ever. 'The judiciary system comprises three several grades of courts, viz : The Supreme Court, Courts of Common Pleas, and Justice's Courts . The justices of the peace are chosen triennially by the people themselves, in each township respectively. They arc conservators of the peace throughout the country; but have no civil jurisdiction out of their town- ships. The state is divided into nine judicial circuits for Courts of Common Pleas, in each of which is a presiding judge, styled President; and in each county of which the district is composed, three associate judges, all elected by the legislature, for 7 years. These courts are held three times a year in each county. The Supreme Court consists of four judges, who hold a court once a year in each county throughout the state. They are likewise chosen by the legislature for scvcu years. 'The supreme executive authority is vested in a Governor chosen biennially by the people. He must be 30 years of ago, and have resided in the state at least four years. He is commander-in-chief of the militia, and commissions all officers in the state, both civil and military. In case %i m m M » 432 OHIO. of disability, or vacancy in his place, the Speaker of (he Senate acts as Governor, until the next succeeding regular elcctinn. The qualifications of a freeman are the age of 21, resident in the state, and the payment of a tax.' In whatever aspect we contemplate this wonderful state, the mind is aflfected with surprise and pleasure. We experience surprise, for the history of colonies affords no similar example of a colony of equal num- bers, improvement and prosperity so rapidly springing from a solid forest wilderness, with no adventitious aid, except tlie fertility of its lands, tin; freedom of its institutions, and the enterprising character of the American people. The real lover of freedom, who firmly believes in the strength and perpetuity of our institutions, contemplates the prospect with un- mingled pleasure. Ohio, all things considered, and her character and institutions carefully analyzed, is the most completely democratic com- munity with which we are acquainted. Here, if the enemies of demo- cracy were to be credited, ought to be found the moat revolting effects of ferocity and misrule. Insurrection and anarchy and lawless violence should be the order of things. This state, on the contrary, is making great exertions to diffuse general education; and there is not, perhaps, In the world, a more peaceable and orderly community, or one where the people are more entirely obedient to the laws. >,'■,'■ ^' - "-.fr 0^ tion, consic I ■ 1 m WEST PENNSYIiVANIA That part of Pennsylvania watered by the Ohio and its branches, is situated west of the great dividing ridge of tho Alleghanies, that separates the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Ohio. Among these ridges the principal are Peter^s Mountain, Tuscarora Mountain, Sideling Hill, Jack's Mountain, and Bald Eagle Ridge. West of these is the Great Alleghany Ridge, which separates between the eastern and western waters. The base of this ridge is 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, and the elevation of the mountain above the base is from 1,000 to 1,500 feet. About one-third of the surface of Pennsylvania is west of these mountains, and watered by the Ohio and its waters. The face of tho country generally is hilly, rolling, and in some places mountainous. Except in the regions about Lake Erie, very little of West Pennsylvania can be called level. West Pennsylvania contains considerably more than 200,000 inhabitants. There is a college at Cannonsburgh, in an elevated and pleasant siua- tion. It is an institution of considerable importance, but too near the college at Washington to admit the supposition, that both the institutions can flourish. The college edifice makes a respectable appearance. The college at Washington is situated in that pleasant village, in the centre of a populous and thriving country. It has a collegiate founda- tion, considerable funds and endowments, and has graduated between 20 and 30 students in some years. The system of common schools in West Pennsylvania does not mate- rially differ from that east of the mountains. There is less inequality of condition among the people, and the modes of conducting schools are more similar to those of New England. •■N 4ai WErr I'LNNSVIAANI.V. 4^ 'X Tlio inhabitants arc ^'(juerally u liardy, rol.iist, and indiislriouH race,' in their habits, puv.siiit.s, and modes of ti.inkinf,', sis well as their persons, much rcsemblinjif the people of New Iji^flmid. Tlic climate, thou;.'li something milder, is not much unlike that (tf Connecticut. The iK'f)plc, like those of New Kngland, are generally addicted to habits of religious worship, and to connecting themselves to some religious society. Their trade is with Pittsburgh, or Canada, and New York, by the way of Lake Erie. Beside the county towns. West Peimsylvania contains the following considerable villages. Connelsville, on the east side of the Youghiogeny, noted for the important mills and manufuclorics in its neighborhood, contains SOO inhabitants. Brownsville is situated on the cast side of Ihc Monongahela River. The great national road passes through it. It is surrounded with fine orchards and fields, in a rich, picturesque, and rciinantic country, and has some fine stone buildings in and about it, and about 1,'^00 inhabitants. Bridgeport is a village opposite to Brownsville. Cannonsburgh is on the West side of Chartier's Creek, 8 miles north of Washington. It is sur- rounded by «, hilly, but fertile country. Erie, beautifully situated on the south side of Lake Erie, is a thriving village. It is a stopping place for steam boats that pass up the lake, and used to be called Presq' Isle. It is the seat of justice for Erie county, and in N. latitude 42° 21', 120 miles north of Pittsburgh. A portage from the lake to the navigable waters of the Alleghany River, commences hero. The distance is 15 miles; and the two places are connected by a turnpike. Immense quan. tities of salt used to be transported over this portage. It was brought from the Great Saline in New York, and was sent down the Ohio, for the supply of the country on its waters. But salt is now made so cheaply and abundantly on the Ohio and its waters, that this trade is in a great measure suspended. A great deal of trade, however, still passes this way, both that of articles for New York from the western country, and of articles sent from New York to the western country. In the year 1800, 58,000 barrels of salt were sent across this turnpike to Pittsburgh. Waterford is situated on the north bank of French Creek, a considera ble river of the Alleghany ; and is the place where the portage from Erie terminates. It is a village of considerable business, and has a post office, a number of stores, inns, and commission warehouses, and is L5 miles south of Erie. Mcadville is near French Creek, and has several stores, inns, and public buildings, a post office and printing office, two churches, and a college, under the care of the Rev. Mr. Alden. Dr. Bently, late of Salem, Massachusetts, bequeathed a very considerable library to this college. Franklin, Kittanning, and Freeport are inconsiderable villages between this place and Pittsburgh. A considerable tract of country in !dl**t *■ .'^- n \N r:sT im:nnsyi.vania. 425 the soiitli-wpst aiiL'lc of New- Yuri; in wiitcrcd by the lictui waters of the AllcL'Iiaiiy. Ill Nfw-Ycrk priiu-ipnlly, niul ;ilnii'.f tlic upper tourses of the Allcj/liaiiy r-rrl'iuiid 1I:''F(m'a;>._> and nolilo piiio I'nreslH, v.liciiccurc c;iniod thu boiiri'.s ami lum!.cr, which sup[)iy tlio /^loater p;irt of the (U'linnd for ihis aiticloin all 1 ho v.cs'toni coir.itry, and (piite to New Orleans. Nearly Ut),000,()Ol) i'cct of plank descend the Alleghany annu- ally In rotuni, heel Ijoafa cnny 1. :;(•!; wluKkfy, iioii, east infifs, cider, apples, haron, and nu'.ny oilu;r domcritic ariicle-j. The brig Dean, and (he Sally Jlos^, anil Koveral other vessels of l.''irtl;en have been launched oil the AlUi^hany, and have des^endod thence to New Orleans. The Alleghany is 4{H) yan!rf wi.'e at its r.ioulh. Aniens the natural curios- ities in this region is Oil Creel:, which enters into llio Alleghany. Tiio spring source of this creek yields great quantities of bituminous, or unc- tuous matter, likn pcinJeum; and pr .b.vbly is that nubslance. It is taken internally, as a niedieinc; and the r!ioumt:tic Ihid relief, by bathing the joints ullcctcd with that cornplaiat, with this oil. Many people at Pittslmrgh keep this oil in bottles, and atfaeh nnieh contidence to it, as containing some mysterion.^ r(iie;;ry. All parts of the wcs'ern c iintry seem admirably accommodated the one to the o'.her; the one part sui);)lying what the other wonted. The country on thu Allcgh.aiiy is in;i(h of it broken, sterile, and not calculated to become a rieh fariniu"' country. It conlaijis iiicxluiustible supplies of the finest liimlcr; and inr.ui.ieruMc mill .seats. Pittsburgh, and the country liehAv il, can amply .s'lpply all tl:e wautii of this region, as regards protlucc, mauuficturcs and arlicics of iron fabi'ic. In retur-v, mills with water-power, arc very uncon»riK;n about Pittsburgh, and the adjacent country naturally calls for the lumber of the Alleghany. Steam boats have recently ascended this river almost to its source. In describing the Allegliaiiy un;l its waters, wo have named the prin- cipal streams from Pennsylvania and iNcw-Yoik, that swell that fine river. There is one creek, that v. e Iiavo not nunitioncd; a tributary of the Alleghany, that deserves nicnliou were it only f :r tlie name, Muhul- buctitum. Economy, the present seat of Mr. Rapp's establishment, formerly at New Ifarmony, is on the uorlli bank of the Ohio, 18 miles below Pittsburgh. It contains many faeiories, a liii'gj church, a commodious hotel, a museum containing ;l luiitic room and dining hall, all laid out with the utmost neatness ami rcgnlarily, and tJ30 inluibitants. At the east end of the town is a park containing deer, a large vineyard and a beauti- ful orchard. It is almost exclusively a manufacturing establishment. It is a community of a peculiar character. 51 #*■. 420 WEST Pr.NNSYLVANI.i. Pittsburgh, iti Ihc extent of Ikt inaiuirirliiros, i« ihr only livril of Cincinnati, in tlin West. In popnlntiini, wcnllli and iinporlnnro it in n(^xf to that city; nnd the third in the vnllcy of the MinHissippi. A more charming spot for tiio site of a city could srrucily he selected. No plme 18 fliirroundcd by more ch.irn;in^ly rounded and romantic lulls; and ilio boundless view of hill anddahj, the All'-^iliuiy l)rin;,'in,«? down its northern tribute on the one hand, and the .Mononf>:ihola its Hoiithcrn otleriii[j on the other, the ainpular hlulls of these rivers, their conjunelion, the hrond and beautiful Ohio, cahuly roniineiieiu;', its course of l,0(lt) niilcg and winding away anionfj its deep forests, and Hln)res shaded hy noble syc amorcs, the town, its surroundiiiif v:.llies, and the whole scene tjikcn together, as seen from the adjoiniu;,' hills, ct^nstilulo as lino a landscape, as can well be irnaf/ined. The town i^ built on an alluvial plain, in the delta of the two rivers, wiiere they uiiito to form the Ohio. Over tlm Alleghany is a high aiul bcaulil'id plain hounded in the distance by hold and rugged hills. The coal hill, across the Monongahela, rises more than 300 feet; and alniopt perpen(li;ularly impends a town, between it and the river. On the iMon(»ii;.falie!a side is a manufiicturing villnjre, called Birmingham ; and to match it, on the Alleiihany side another manu facturing town. Both arc connected wita the city h noble and long bridges over these two rivers. It is well known that tho site of this town was selected at an early period in tho French wars, as nn important i int in the great chain of posts, which was to connect Canada with Louisiana. It had been, for a considerable time, a depot of French gocds for tho savages; a place of outfits for the trade of the Ohio, and a military pest, to defend the country against the occupancy and settlement of the FiUglish, and to secure to the inhabitants tho monopoly of the trade with the savages; when Braddock was sent to dispossess the French, and capture the post of Fort Du Quesnc, as it was then called. Alter the fatal battle, in which he was mortally wounded, and in which Washington gained his first laurels, colonel Grant with 800 Calcdoni ns was defeated here on the hill, which still bears his name. Not lon>^ .il'ter, it came into the possession of the British, and they built a fori at the expense of (50,000 pounds sterling. It was built under the superintendence of lord Stanwin. In 1760, a considerable town arose about the fort. Beautiful gardens and fruit orchards were planted ; but on the breaking out of the Indian war, in 1763, the inhabitants again retired into the fort. The present town of Pittsburgh dates back to 1765. Its plan was enlarged, and it was re-surveyed, in 1784. It then belonged u, the Penn family, as a part of their hereditary manor. By them it was sold. The Indian wars, and ^ \VE«T PCNXSVLVAMA. 487 the troul»lc9 in tlio wji.ilciu ooiintry prcventiil its ripiil yrowtli, until th« veur i71)t). Sincu tliat titnc. it Ii;im iiicrca^xil on tlio saiiic uculo of jjuproveuK'nt with tlio inont [.'rowing tnwiia of llio West. It is Hiii)|»li(;il 1 y writer by :i liiyli prr^^mr Hteaiu cii;^fiin.' of N-l lior^O pjvvtr, wliicli raises (lie wilier 110 feel nliovo the Alle(»liaiiy Iliver. A luiliion and ii liiiif ^mIIoiim of' water can l)c raised in Ml liuuru. Tlicae works went into operation in lS\iN. The eliiirclies in thi.^ ( ilVMien IJaplist, Uoiiian Catliulic, Coventintera', Stveders', a Metliodisl cliiireh, (iernian l.utJKiran rliureli, Union eluirch, Kjiijicnp.-il eliurcli, first and sccdiid Presl)yterian cliiirclics, Unitarian churili, .'■•ediid ]Millio(li:4 eliiin li, and an African chureli, making a totnl of in. Tlie touii into iip.ils. There are four larj.';c cotton factoric?, in the Inrgcstof whieh are li>,0110 spindles, .«i)innin^j l,lUOpouMtls of yarn weekly. There ure two larj^e (!sl!d)lish!nents of glass works; and XJ70 other Lirgo manufacturing e;ital;litlm.ents of a miseellnneous eharaetcr. Tho suburl-s of Pittsbiu'gh are Alleiihany Town, N()rlli(>rn Jiiberties, Birming- ham on the siulh ijaidi of the iMo!u.n;rahela, liawreucovilic-East Liberty, and remainder of PiU t(Avn;Sii. Total, ii'J, ILMj, The town iseompuclly, luul in some streets handsomely built; although the universal use of pit coal for culinary uud manufacturing purposes has carried such quantities of fnie black matter, driven olfin the smoke into the air, and deposited it on the walls of the houses, and every thing, that can he blackened with coal smoke, as to have given the town a gloomy aspect. Its position and advantages, as a nianuf icturing town, and its acknowl- edged healthfulness will continue, however, to render it a jjlace of attrac- tion for builders, manufacturers and capitalists. ' At the present time the following articles arc minufaclured en a great scale. Iron mongery of every description, steam engines, and enginery, and iron work in general; cutlery of all descriptions; glass and paper cotton, and woollens, pottery, chemicals, tin, and copper ware arc manu- factured, and exported to a great extent. Boat and steam boat building have been pursued here on a greater scale, than in any other town in the western country. So long ago as 1814, 4,055 waggons of four and six horses, employed, as transport waggons, passed between this place and f ■■f'll ^ -mm X W 428 WTJST PENNSYLVANIA. a h" Philadelphia. Boats of tlio smullcr kinds arc conf imial'y dcj)!irtin vvstirirMipon Oliio find lndi;m;i. 'i'iirce quarlcrs of its extent !uo puvioinilo;! ! y \hv. ^ivW l.;I:f :•;, 1 fiiron and rilichi;T;ui. {f [^ peneral'y till vol coiMihy, l!.i\i!i,i,nion.oinitnii5S, and rot ninny elevations that mi,<^ht proprny lifM-ullecl Jiiil". Tlie cenlro of tho |)0iiin3id;i is taljln land, elovatcil, howovor, not many loot ahovo tin level ol' the l!ikps,nnf! slnpinp; in every dirct'lion to tlioni. Bi'.t, tlioii/jh the <:7onoral ssiilaro of this territory is level, there is Hir k^ss s\v:unpy nnd wet Hiirlace, liian in Iho northern l;cltot" Ohio, adjoininvct and dry ; and extensive and deep forests of trees of nearly the same classes with tho.-)0 in Oliio; e\ec[)t, that here there is an inter- mixture of white nnd yellow pine. A eonsiderahle belt of land, nlnnjj the sonthern shore of Lake Michigan is sandy and sterile; and so swept by the hlejk and desolntinir frale of the lake, as not to promise mnch in the way of cultivation. But a great proportion of the lands of lliis Torritoiy are of excellent quality; and it promises one day to be a i)i)])ulau3 coun- try. The productions arc the same as those of New York. Orchards flourish remarkably, and this will undoubtedly become a fine fruit country, Rivers. This is a country watered by almost innumerable rivers and branches. From the levelncss of the country, they are fienerally hoal- able almost to their sources. These rivers abound in the line fish of the lakes; and the fislierics on them are no inconsiderable source of supply to tlie new settlers. We can only mention a few of the most importan!. Grand River is the largest that enters Lake Michigan. If rises in the south-east angle of the Territory, and interlocks at its sources, or in its passage, w'ith the waiters of Raisin, Bhick, IMastigon, and Sagannm; and enters the lake 20 miles north of the Raisin. It courses throu'rh forests and prairies abounding with game; and its bosom, at the proper seasons, is covered with wild fowls. Small boats reach its source, and by this and Huron Rivers, periogues pass from lake Michigan to lake l-lric. It has been proposed to connect it by a canal with the Saganum of hke Huron. The St. Joseph heads in Indiana, and interlocks with Black River, St, Joseph's of the Miami, Eel River, and Tippicancc of tlie Wabash. It has a strong current, and is full of islands, is beatable 150 miles, and is 200 yards wide at its entrance into the lake. There are most abundant fish- eries on it. The Raisin derives its name from the great number of grapes that grow on its banks. Black River, Marame, Barbue, AVhite, Rocky, Beauvais, St. Nicholas, Marguerite, Monistic, Aux Sables, Lasictte, Grand Traverse, Thunder River, Sandy, Saganum, St. Cair, Bellp,and Huron aro considerable streams that empty into the lakes. These rivers, M ^-..... wicnrcjAN Tt^nniTonv. 435 like those of llio Gulf of Mexico, before tlicy enter tli'i lakes, expand into consideniblc basiiu', c;iupf(]. no doubt, by the cDi'llict between iho current of liio rivcrp, n:id the HUif of the lakes, mooiin^r in a level and sandy soil. In tlio proper se;ison, ihoy sii'o covered with abuiiilniil Iiarvcsts of wild rice; with innuinerabi" llucks of wild fowls', that conic here to leed npon it. A ariii;.fs (>f the settlers. The strait of St. Clair, coniiectinf^' that lake with lake Huron, is 20 miles lon;Lr« It runs tln-oiiuli a country partly jirairie and jiarlly Ibrest. Deep |rrovcs of beautiful while pine arc found jdonj' this strait. The strait of Detroit, connecting,' lake Erie and St. (.'1 ;ir is 151 nii'cH. It is navi^'Tablc for kirgc vessels, is studded with islands; rnd one of the most beautiful sheets of water in the worhl. Its current is nearly three miles an hour. ^||^ It receives the rivers Uoiiire, Ecorce, ]M;i<;'riu;;ni!i, and Brownslown. Five miles above the mouth of (he ]louf];e is a sliip yard. It has excellent lands on its banks. South of Huron River, the river Aux C;;^nes, Rocky Creek, Aux Sables, and some other small streams enter the lake. Raisin derives im|)ortance from the circumstance that it is more settled than any river in the country, except Detroit. It has also obtained a mel- ancholy celebrity from the events of the late war. It Ins at its mouth extensive prairies, and wide tracts covereil with wild rice. The French settlements on this river are conformable to their customs in Canada, Missouri, and Louisiana; that is to say, they are laid out in long and narrow parallelograms, two or three arpens wide in front, and from 40 to ICO arpens deep. In tins v.ay they gratify their propensity for society, by having (he fronts of their plantations resemble a continued village. There are fine orchards on this river. Its banks arc covered with grape , vines, and from the abundance of its grapes it receives its name. Michilimackinack island is situated in the north-west angle of lake Huron in the straits between it and lake Michigan. It is considered among the most impregnable fortresses on the northern frontier. The British gained possession of it, during the late war. It derives its name from an Indian word, implying 'the back of a tortoise,' which, in its form of rising from the lake, it resembles, Tl;c island is miles in circum- ference. The village stands on the south side of it, and on rising grounds back of it, (he fort is situated. Tliis is one of the most remote northern settlements in the United States. The fortifications are of great strength. The population of the island and its vicinity is about 1,000. Tiie isl- ands in lake Michigan are as follows: JManitou Island, near the eastern coast, is six r^nles long and four wide. The Castor Islands extend from i i if ipi'l' }. w a i 1'^ f' 436 MICHIGAN TERRITORY. Grand Traverse Bay nearly ncross tlio lake. Grossc Isle is five miles long, and from one to two wide. Bois Blanc is in front of Maiden, and has been possessed by tlio Britisli; and is one of the points of territory in question between our government and tlicir3. The bays on the east side of liikc JMiclii<^an, arc .Sable and Cirniid Trnvcrse. Those on the Huron coast are Thunder and Sii'^ana. The last is 40 miles in extent ia one direction, and from 8 to ll2 in the other. I\Iaumce Bay resembles a lake; and is situated at the moulh of JMaumeo River. It is 18 miles in circumference. In the interior of this territory are great numbers of small lakes and ponds, from which the rivers have their sources. The strait, which connects lake Huron and lake Michigan, is called Lac des Illinois, is 15 miles long, of an elliptical figure, and subject to a tide, which has sensible fluxes and refluxes. The Indians that reside in this territory are chiefly the following: Ottawas, Miamies, Pottawattomie?, Chippeways, and Wyandots. By different treaties they have made ces- sions of the greater part of the lands in this territory to the United States. They still retain considerable tracts of fine country; and have many reservations and villages, even among the settlements. Some of them have made no inconsiderable advances in cultivation, and the arts of civilized life. Most of the converts to Christianity in this region profess to be Roman Catholics. The Protestants have recently established mis- sionary stations and schools among them. The savages of this region suffered much during the late war; and their numbers are clearly dimin- ishing. The climate of this region, in consequence of its being level, and pen- insular, and surrounded on all sides but the south with such immense bodies of water, is more temperate and mild than could be expected from its latitude. The southern parts have mild winters, and the spring opens as early as in any part of the United States in the same latitude. The position of the northern parts must subject it to a Canadian temperature. The winter commences here early in November; and does not terminate except with the end of March. At Detroit, in 1818, the mean heat of January was 24°, and in 1820 the mean heat of July was 69°, of December 27°. At Mackinack, the most northern settlement in the United States, the mean heat of October was 45°; of November 32°; and of December 21°. Agriculture, Manufactures, Exports, Sfc. The eastern parts of this territory, from various circumstances, became first settled. Within the few last years a great mass of immigvants have begun to spread them- selves over this fine and fertile country. Situated, as it is, between the west, the south, and the east, with greater facilities for extensive inland water communication, than any other country on the globe, with a fertile :^t^i^' ■■. • can ho no duuht, that it wi!' srwrn lake its place as a state, and rival its western i^ister states. Wheat, Fndian com, cats, barley, hitck wheat, potatoes, turnips, peas, apples, pears, plums, cherries and peaches are rair^ed easily and in ahuudance. It is a country more favorahlc to cultivated /irarscs than the western cotmlry. In short, it is peculiarly fitted fn* n'Mihcrn firmrrs. No inland country, according to its !!;,'0, populiition, and circunislauces, has a greater trade. A numher of steam hoalsand lake vessels arc constantly plying in this trade, which iswith IMackinack, Detroit, Cliic;i;io, and Ohio. The amount of foreign exports, in LS'21, was rtli^^m dollars. Chief Towns. Detroit is the political metropolis, and the only town of much size in the territory. It is situated on the western hank of the river Detroit, IS miles ahove Maiden in Canada, and miles helow the outlet of lake St. Clair. The hanks arc 20 feet ahove the highest waters CD of the river. The plain on which it is huilt is beautiful, and the position altogether delightful and romantic. The streets are wide and the houses are of stone, hrick, frame and logs; and some of them make a very showy appearance. Three of the principal streets run parallel with the river, and are crossed at right angles by six principal cross streets. Several wharves project into the river. The United States' wharf is 140 feet long, and a vessel of 400 tons burthen can load at its head. The public buildings are a council house, state house, United States' store, Presby- terian church, a Roman Catliolic chai)cl, and some other public buildings. There are a number of stores, and others building. Rents and the value of lots are rising; and the town exhibits marks of rapid population and improvement. It was almost entirely consumed by fire, in 1806; and the appearance of the new town is much superior to the old one. It is a place of great and constant resort of the Indians; and here the greatest numbers and the fairest sample of the northern tribes are seen. Though the lake boatmen, the courciirs du hoh, and the huntsman of the northern wilderness arc not exactly the Bedowin Arabs, and the frightful scare-crows that Volney has dcscribed,itmustbe admitted that living in the woods, being exposed to the heats and colds of the climate, and rowing on the rivers and lakes under the direct rays of the sun, are things not favorable to complexion and appearance; and Detroit can show many inhabitants sufficiently outr6 in their costume, and who have nothing in their appear- ance to recommend them. Respectable schools are now established here. A public journal issues from the press. Libraries are in contemplation. It must continue to increase with the influx of immigrants, and the ex- tension of back settlements. It is the chief depot of the shipping of the •i" ■ i-1 W^ . \-<;-£i. 438 MICHIGAN TEltniTORY. lakes. A slcatn boat plies bctu'con it and RulTilo. The operation of tlio Erie Caiiiil Ins hwn ruvonible to tlio huyiucss and iniportuncc oi' this town, and of tliewliolc coiinlry. Tlio finisljin;,' of the Ohio Canal will still farther enhance its Imsinrss and jirospciity. Detroit is evidently destined to hcci'nic a considoiablc town. 'J 'iio popnlatinn exceeds 2,000. The one half of llirso aro French, the other half Americans; with a con- siderable sprinklin^^' of foroi'inov-i fioni various countries. The other villages that have received names, aro iMount Clement, Brownslown, Monroe, Lawrcnccvill(',Frenchtown, and the New Settlement. Government. This is upon the common jdan of the territorial gov- ernments. But it is eapy 1f> sec that this territory will soon bo in a con- dition to claim admiswloninto the confederacy of the states. Every ti.ing is yet in the commenrernent. The usiuil provisions arc made for roads; and the country is so level that it will easily be susceptible of good ones. At present transport and passage arc almost entirely by water, for which this country furnishes greater facilities than any other of the same extcat in the United Slates. Detroit is <'omparativoly an ancient place. The French plantations along Detroit River exhibit the aspect of a continued village. They are laid out in the usual manner, 2 or 3 arpens in front by 40 or 80 arpens deep. The mansions have that foreign and interesting aspect, that French buildings and establishments naturally have to the American eye. They are embowered in ancient and beautiful orchards. All have the appearance of comfort; and some of them of splendor and opulence. There arc few landscapes more interesting, few water excur- sions more delightful, than that from Detroit to the lakes; along thig broad, cool, and transparent river, studded with islands, and alive with fishes; in view of this continuous line of French houses and orchards, on either banii of the river. The French hero have their customary national manners. They live in ease and abundance in the forests, and take very little thought about education or intellectual improvement. But every thing has changed in this region since it has become subject to the free institutions of the United States. A corporate body, styled the 'University of Michigan,' has been formed. They have power to institute Colleges, Academies, and public Schuols. The march of improvement in this and in all respects is rapid. History. Michigan was originally comprised in the North-Western Territory. French missionaries Avero settled here as early as 1G48. Detroit was founded by the French, in 1670. In 1703, this country, along with other possessions conquered from the French, came under the government of Great Britain. At the close of the Revolutionary War it became part of the territory of the United States. But the British gov- ernment held possession of the military posts in it until 170G. In 1805 Hi "ir MIflllCi.vN TEIiniTOIlY. i'i\} the country \\:\h formed in !i distinct (oiritoriul govcriinicnf. On tlw breaking,' out of llio luto war, this coinilry hocamc llic tlioiitro of part of its oporalions. ]Vl;ickiti:iclv wnsciiptun-d by tlin IJritisli; and Cliica(,'o surrendered to the s.ivancw. 'J'lio ilistislroiis and hinnili;itin'» alliiir of tho surrender of Detroit, hy jjcncral Hull, orcunod soon al'tof; and iho British held possession of it a year. Tiic si^'n;d viriory over the British fleet on hdio Erie, and tiie siihsfquciit doRal of tho I'orces niuk>r genornl Proctor, by general Harrison, clian;,'e(l thotido of snccosg; and iMicliifran again passed into the hands of the United States It is now one of tlio principal points of inimijfrnition. Sketches of the hdea and the rii'er Nhf^ara. Althonn;!! the terri- tory of Michigan, and the lakes may not bo consi(k?rod as bclon^^'inrr to the great valley of the Mississippi, yet wo hue criusidcrrd thcin as the external north-eastern limits of that prodigious basin. Tlioy evidently mark a part of its grand features. Tiic lakes every were exhibit marks of having been formerly much hiiflier, tlriu Ihcy now arc, and vast allu- vial tracts, beyond their present limits indicate, that their waters covered a much greater extent of country, than at present. It scarcely admits a doubt, that by the Illinois and other tributaries of the Mississip[)i in that direction, the lakes discharged IVom the western extremity of lake Michigan into the Mississippi. Every person, that hiis traversed tho up- per courses of the Illinois, remarks that the water lino on the blufls indi- cates the floods of the river, to have been twenty feet above its highest present elevation. These vast bodies of fresh water, then, formerly dis- charged from one extremity into the gulph of Mexico; and from the other, into that of the St. Lawrence. Even now, as wo have already remark- ed, a few feet of excavation would empty them anew into the Illinois. These internal seas of fresh water therefore belong to tho arrangement of the great Mississippi basin; and re(piirc a brief description, in order that we may mark the magnificent northern outline of the country, wo have been describing. Whatever theories may bo adopted to explain the phenomena of recent submersion, that are seen over all the western country, little doubt can exist, that these lakes arc the pools, that remain, as mementos of the extent of the agents employed in that work. They display a feature in the conformation of our country, that has no other parallel on the globe. They seem to be generally beyond the reach of prairies. Boundless forests encircle them. Their vast extent, the fierce and untamed char- acter of the wandering hordes, that have hunted, fought and fished around ihem for unknown age s, the terror of the winters, that rule these regions of ice and storms, for so great a part of the year, the precipitous crags of secondary formation, that line their southern shores? m 440 lUCIilGAN TERRITORY. f. Il<- ■* and the bluck inasscs of priinitivu granite, tluit risu to iinpadHublu lit>i;(iit>4 on the north, (ho rcinoturu'ixliiliiliiii,' an aspect, which wouhl chill tlio heart of any one, except a sivii^ij hunter, lislierinaii, or covrcur tin hoii, in the description, much more in tiaversin'4 it. We have a faiihl'ul and interesting account of these dreary regions in the narrative of ninjor Long's second expedition. This chain commences on the north-cist with lake Ontario. It? extent is 180 by '10 miles. At its eastern extremity it is a group of islands, known by the name of the 'thousand islands.' From this lake we ascend by a strait, called Niagara river, a mile in avarago width, very swift and deep, and 30 miles long to lake Erie. This is a broad and beautiful sheet of water, equally transparent with the former, but falling short of it in general depth. Its extent is 230 by 45 miles. In various central positions on this lake, the voyager is out of sight of land, as on mid ocean. It embosoms a number of considerable islands. Ascending still farther west, we find another strait, as the French word Detroit imports. It connects lake Eric with lake St. Clair, and is 27 miles in length. Lake St Clair is another clear and beautiful basin of water, 30 miles in diameter. The strait between this lake and Huron is 32 miles in length, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with a deep and rapid current. Lake Huron is the second on the continent in size, being 220 by 90 in extent. It has the usual cold, transparent and deep waters, is studded with many islands, and of a depth to be every where navigated by the largest vessels. At its western extremity, by the straits of Miclii- limackinack, it communicates with the singular lake, Michigan. This lake seems to be a kind of episode in the great chain, not appearing necessary for the expansion or conveyance of the waters collected above in lake Superior. It is wholly in the limits of the United States, while half of the rest pertains to the dominions of Great Britain. It? extent is 300 by 50 miles. It receives 40 considerable rivers, has valuable fisher- ies of sturgeon and white fish, and embosoms some islands towards its northern extremity. '^.%6 mm MICirrUAN TCIlUITOnY. 411 )iitario. Its is a ^Toup of om this lake width, very a broad and r, but fullins In various (fland, as on Ascending word Detroit s 27 miles in of ivater, 30 n is 32 miles lep and rapid e, being 220 ep waters, is •e navigated itsofMichi- igan. This t aj)pearing Iccted above kates, wliile ft? extent is lable fjsJicr- towards its Ketiirnin!.' to Inhe Uiirnii we frul it coiinectrd with lake Superior by fiHfruit *J7 miles in 1 Mmili. Tiie eurrcni el" tliiji river id Mliillnv, rapid, mid rcridi'ieil dilliciill of tuivi/f iiioii ],y liiitju mnasou of ruck. I/iko .•Jiipf'rinr is I y fir lli-; lii:'.^'«t coll'-cfinti of fivnli waleiH on llie plobe, l;i"iti^' 350 l)y 100 mill's in oxfciit, nid r(;;'u;cil nearly J,"(]0 miles in cirnnnfemiice. Tiie water is tr;m'fp;ir(.'Mt, imd doepi/r and coMlt, than liny of tlie re-here the shallow and stagnant mass, among this rank and compact vegetation, becomes slimy and unpotable, as soon as they iiiul their lev(d in the deep beds of the lakes, lose their dark nnd icd color, and (heir swampy taste, and become as transparent almost as air. When the Irdces sleep, the fishes can bo seen sporting at u-nmcnos depihs below. The lower r^lrata of the water never gain the temperature of siuTin.er. A bottle sunk an hundred feet in lake Superior, and filled at that depth, feels, when it comes up, as if 5G » 'Mm %l ♦ 442 MICII1(;AN TKIMIITORV. ^% filled with ice water. ImajL'iiKition can nut but cxpiliate in traversing the lofty precipices, the pathless niornsscs, and the dark and inhospitable forests of these remote and lonely oceans of iVesh water, where the tempests have raged, and the surges have dashed for counth^ss ages, unwitnessed except here and there at the distance of on Imndrod leagues by a few red skinn, or more recently, Canadian courcura du hols, scrambling over the precipices to fish, or paddling tlioir periogues in agonies of terror to find shelter in the little bays from the coming storm. Hundreds of rivers, though none of great length, discharge themsclvca into these inland seas. Situated as they are in a climate, generally remarkable for the dryness of its atmosphere, they must evaporate incon- ceivable quantities of water. It has been connnonly supjjosed, that the Niagara, their only visible drain, does not discharge a tenth part of the waters and melted snows, which they receive. Tliey spread such an iranionse surface, and have so much of the grand levelling power of the ocean, that neither 'they, nor their outlet, the St. Lawrence, have any thing of that flood and subsidence, that form such a distinguishing feature in the Mississippi and its waters. Hence, too, the Niagara has little of marked alluvial character in connnon with the Mississippi. It rolls down its prodigions volume of waters, alike uninfluenced by droughts, or rains, by the heat and evaporation of summer, or the accumulated snows and ices of winter. Will the shores of these vast and remote waters be ever settled, except by a few wandering trappers, fishermen and savages? Shoals of immi- grants from the old world are continually landing at Quebec and Montreal, Upper Canada is becoming populous. Wave is propelled beyond wave, Much of the country on the shores of the lakes is of an inhospitable and sterile charticter, never to be cultivated. There are, also, along their shores and tributary waters, sheltered vallies and large extents of fertile Boil, sufficient for numerous and populous settlements. It is an iiiexpli cable part of the composition of human nature, that men love to congre. gate and form the most populous cities and settlements in northern and inhospitable climes, rather than in the country of the banana and the pine apple. The astonishing advance of population and improvement, both on the American and British side of the country, has caused that the bosoms of the remotest lakes have been whitened with the sails of com- merce. The smoke of the passing steam boats is seen rising in columns among their green islands. The shores have echoed with the exploding cannon of conflicting fleets. The northern forests of Ohio have already seen the red cross of a hostile squadron giving place to the stars and ttrtpes. Roads are constructing to reach their shores. Canals are ex- cavating tg connect the whole extent of thifc' vast chain with the Atlantic # iGLi^ik ■A MICHIUiVN TERniTOnV. 448 and the Gtilf of Mrxico. Is? it (00 sanguine to predict, tliat within the compass of a ccnlniy llicir sliorcs will count nn Imndicd populous towns, where senates will dchiiti! mid pools siiiu? That every nook of ihem will be visited l)y vessels nnd stonin ho'ttg, nnd connected liy roads and mail routes, nnd that tliu fisheries on them will become as much an object of luiticnal importance, as are now those of Newfoundland? It is out of our plnu to describe the rivers, that empty into these lakes. But we shall notice the St. fiawrcnce, the next largest in North America to the Mississippi, and ihc counterpoise and rival of that mighty stream. Commcncin<>; his course for nnother ocean, and moving off in an opposite direction, he seems ])roiKlly determined to resemble his mighty rival in nothing, but in bearing oil' the triljute of waters from a world. The former is continually swelling or subsiding; and in his spring floods, moving with a front many leagues '\\\ width, he has no resemblance to his autumnal course in a deep channel, and winding by beaches and sand- bars. His alluvial forests are wido and dark, with a vegetation of surpas- sing grandeur. Tfis sides arc marly and (-rumbling, and his bottom is oozy and of slime. His turlid waters, when united with those of the sea discolour it for 50 miles from its mouth. -U The other is perpetually the same, steady, full, clear, and his current always sweeping. His bed is worn in strata of stone. His banks rise at once to the primitive soil. Blufis of rock impend his course. Forests in llieir "season beautifully verdant, but bearing the more healthy, stinted and sterile character of the north, the larch, the pine and the white birch, bend over his waters, and before he meets the sea, vision can scarcely reach the opposite shore. At the point, where this river issues from lake Erie, it assumes the name of Niagara. It is something more than three q\iarters of a mile in width, and the broad and powerful current embosoms two islands; one of them. Grand Isle, the seat of Mr. Noah's f-.mous Jewish colony, con- taining eleven thousand acres, and the other, Navy island, opposite to the British village of Chii)peway. Below this island the river again becomes an unbroken sheet, a mile in width. For a half a mile below it seems to be waxing in wrath and power. Were this rapid in any other place, itself would be noted, as one of the sublimest features of river scenery. Along this rapid, the broad and irresistible mass of rolling waters is not entirely whitened, for it is too deep to become so. But it has something of that curling and ann-ry aspect, wliieli the sea exhibits, when swept by the first bursts of a tempest. The momeulum may be conceived, when we are instructed, thdt in half a mile the river has a descent of 50 feet. A col- umn of water, a mile broad, 25 feet deep, and propelled onward by the weight of the surplus waters of the whole prodigious basin of the lakes, % '%.: B i :. mm m II 4. a m # M 444 MKJIIIOAN TEHRITORY. rolling down ihis rapid doclivily, al lf?nr;fli pours over the cataract, as if falling to the central depths orihocnrlli. Instead of sublimity, the first feeling excited hy this SinfJon'^Mis c:ilrract, is amnzcmorit. The mind accustomed oniy to 6rdin;;ry pliennnu'na •■• *. ^ NORTH-WEST TEKKITORY. %- Nearly 500 miles in length, and 400 in breadth. Between 42° 30', and 49° N. latitnde, and 10° .*} V, and 18° 30', W. longitude. Bounded east by Lake Michigan; north by Lake Superior and the British posses- sions; west by the Mississippi, and a line drawn from its source to the northern boundary, which separates it from Missouri Territory. The most accurate account of this country is to be found in Long's second expedi- tion. It is generally a hilly country, with the exception of extensive level prairies. At the western extremity of Lake Su])erior are the Cabotiaii Mountains; and near the mineral district the Smoky Mountains. In some of its features, this country resembles Missouri Territory; but has greater proportions covered with wood. The chief rivers, except the Mississippi, are Ouisconsin River, Fox, Chippeway, St. Croix, Rum, St. Francis, and Savanna of the Mississippi; Grand Portage, Ontonagon, Montreal, Mauvaise, Bois brulc, St. Louis, and nearly 50 smaller streams are waters of Lake Superior. Ricierc la Pluic falls into the Lake of the Woods. None of the lake rivers have a course of more than 150 miles, and few more than 50 miles. The largest river of the Mississippi in this Territory, is Ouisconsin, which rises in the northern interior of the country, and interlocks with the Montreal of Lake Superior. It has a course of between 3 and 400 miles, has a shallow and rapid current, which is, however, generally boat- able in good stages of the water, and is 800 yards wide at its mouth. There is a portage of only half a mile between this and Fox River. It is over a level prairie, across which, from river to river, there is a water communication for periogues in high stages of the water. NOUTII-AVEST TKRIIITOUY. 447 Fox River has a course of 200 miles. It runs through Winnebago Lake. It has a fine country on its banks, with a salubrious climate. Cliippeway is a considerable river of Ihc Mississippi, and enters it just below Lake Pepin. It is half a mile wide at ils mouth, and has commu- nications, by a short portage, with Lake Superior. A canal of 6 miles, over a perfectly level j)liiin, could connect this river with the preceding, and furnish steam boat navigation from Buffalo to the Mississippi. This is a fine region for hunters. In the upper part of the country buffalos, elk, bears and deer a re common. Beavers, otters, and musk rats are taken for their furs. The trappers and savages roam over immense prairies in pursuit of iheir objects. In some parts of it the soil is fertile. White and yellow pine, and white birch are common among the forest trees. All the water courses, ponds and marshes are covered with wild rice, which constitutes a considerable part of the nourishment of the in- habitants. The head waters of the Mississippi arc estimated to be 1,330 feet above the level of the sea. It is a country abundant in minerals. In it are found great quantities of the terre vcrte, or green earth, lead, copper and iron. The lead mine district is in the lower part of the country, between Rock River and the Ouisconsin. On Fever River are the chief establishments of the present miners, and the mines are probably as rich and as abundant as any in the world. It has been asserted, for half a century, that great quantities of native copper are found along the northern shore of Lake Superior. On the Ontagon are great quantities of pure copper in detached masses. A single mass is estimated to weigh 3,000 pounds. More recent and intel- ligent travellers have not realized the expectations that have been raised in respect to finding this metal. But lead and iron are found in various places; and sufficient indications of the existence of mines of copper. The southern parts of this extensive region possesses a climate com- paratively mild, and not much unlike that of the northern belt of Missouri. At the Falls of St. Anthony the summers are temperate; and the winters extremely cold. The sources of the Mississippi are in a region severely inclement. At St. Peters, in 1820, the mean temperature of January was zero, a degree of cold not felt in any part of the United States that is much settled. The summer was temperate, and the atmosphere beau- tifully serene. Even at Prairie du Chien, though much more temperate, the winters are very severe. The following table is selected from Mr. Schoolcraft. * I 448 IfORTU-VVEST TERRITORY • Average Premiling Place. Date. tanpt Air raturc. Water. 2oinds. Detroit, May 15 to 24 01° C0° N. E. River St. Clair, 24 27 51 52 N. W. Lake Huron, 28 to June G 51 51 N. W. Mackinack, June 7 to 13 55 00 S. E. Mackinack to Lake Superior, 13 18 6fi 00 S. W. Lake Superior, 11) 27 GO 58 N. AV. Ontonnjron River, 28 30 SO 73 N. W. Water of Lake Superior, 06 Ontonagon River to Fond ) du Lac, \ July 1 to 5 04 01 s. w Between Fond du Lac and t Sandy Lake,* \ 6 to 16 07 N. W. At Sandy Lake, 17 24 73 From Sandy Lake to St. ) Peters, \ 25 to Aug. 1 09 s. w. Chicago, January, 15 N. W. & S. W. February, 32 s. w. March to 15, 29 . N.E. Note.— On the 19th July, near the Falls of Packagnma, the elevation being 1,200 feet above tiie level of the sea, "the night was so cold that the water froze upon the bottoms of the canoes, and they were encrusted with a scale of ice of the thickness of a knife blade. The thermnmeter stood at 30° at sun-rise. There had been a heavy dew during the night, which was •jccceded by a dense fog in the morning, and the forenoon re- mained cloudy and chiily." Green Bay Settlement is situated at the outlet of Fox River, and con- tains 952 inhabitants. A few miles up Fox River of this Bay in a most romantic position, is an interesting Episcopal Missionary establishment. There are two or three other incipient establishments of hunters and trappers. Prairie du Chien is a considerable village. There are flour mills near it. It is a place of importance as an outfit from the Lower Mississippi to the upper waters. Iv is situated near a beautiful prairio. The position of the village has been recently inundated. Most of the permanent inhabitants have Indian blood in their veins. At certain sea- sons of the year it is populous, bustling and busy. Curious modes of justice and of despatching business have been adopted here by prescrip- tion. The inhabitants in this village and settlement amount to 4f!2. Frequent voyages are made from St. Louis to this place in keel boats, The richest copper mines, and large masses of pure copper are found here. One-third of the land is fit for farming, and one-sixth well tim- bered. *The distance from Fond du Lac to Detroit le 1,100 miles. NOnTU WEST TERniTORV. 44U Ptrvai Un^ idnd 9. N li N. ^v. N. w. S. I'i. w. N. w. N. w. S. w N. w. s. w. . w. &, s. w. s. w, the elevation s so cold that ere encrusted thermnmetcr rinrr the night, le forenoon re- iver, and con- Bay in a most establishment. ' hunters and iiere are flour m the Lower atiful prairie. Most of the \i certain sea- ion s modes of re by prescrip- nount to 4f!2, in keel boats. per are- found ixth well tim- Tiiis vast region has liithorfo been politically connected with Michigan Territory; but as that Territory has as distinct geographical limits as any state in the Union, and this region is only connected with that by circum- stances of a temporary nature, it is evident that this country ought to be viewed, at least gc^ogniphicully, as a Territory by itself. Prairie du Cliien, Cassville, and Green Bay are the largest villages, and the whole population is rated at 1(),000. Three thousand immigrants for this country passed through ButTalo in a single week. A correspondent of the Buffalo Journal gives an agreeable picture of that portion of this Territory, which has been lately ceded to government by the Mcnomence Indians, and in which he had just maoi an excursion. The tract reserved to the Indians, of i)00,000 acres, is also a fine body of land, containing very extensive and fertile meadows along the Fox River, with woodlands of good timber in which there is no imderbrush. The writer proceeded 39 miles from Green Bay up the Fox River to Winne- bago Lake, passing rapids whose whole descent is about 100 feet. The river is 90 yards wide, its bed a lime stone rock, the banks from 50 to 150 feet high. The water power is of course adequate to move any machinery. Doty's Island, in the outlet of the lake, contains 400 acres heavily tim- bered. The bank of the lake itself is covered with trees of a height and diameter indicating the nature of the soil, which is a black loam, rich and deep. The Cliff, so called, is a mountain 300 feet above the level of the lake, presenting a picturesque prospect. The main roads leading from Green Bay to Chicago, Ouisconsin, Portage, the Lead Mines, and Galena, will probably pass this point. Beyond this the mountain recedes three or four miles from the shore, forming a valley 15 miles in length, of as fertile land as can be found in the United States; terminating to the south in a dry prairie called Cass Plains. These plains contain 25,000 acres of rich land, which are already cleared by nature for the plough; and they extend to the Manitoovoc River. Soon after begin the prairieg, which run with scarcely any timber, to the Mississippi. Irt the whole distance, near 100 miles, passed by the writer, the land seems to be of the kind and aspect just described, namely, rich prairie, with occasional growths of fine timber, equally indicative of fertility. A road from the mouth of Fond du Lac River to Galena would be of great advantage to the mines, and a direct route for one might be followed at a trifling ex- pense. It would facilitate (he transportation of property from New York by the cuual and the lakes. ii '. -m '\-: i'\ lee. *' 57 ,v*»«(fc»*» ' ( fMf 1' i'i* MISSOVRI TERRITORY. Lenotu, 900 miles,' breadth, 800. Between 36° 30 N. latitude, and 13° 40' and 35° 10' W. longitude. Bounded by the British possessions on the north; east by the North- West Territory, Illinois, and Missouri; south and south-west by the territories of the Mexican Republic ; west by the Rocky Mountains. No writers have given such striking, general views of this country as the gentlemen of Long's first expedition. The belt of country partially wooded, extends generally from 2 to 400 miles west of the Mississippi and its waters. There commences that ocean of prairies, that constitutes so striking and impressive a feature in the vast country beyond the Mississippi and Missouri. This vast country is for the most part a plain, more or less covered with grass, in great ex- tents; in other extents almost a moving sand. It is pastured, and trodden by countless numbers of buffaloes, elk, and other wild animals that graze upon it. In some places, as on the Missouri, spurs of the mountains are encountered long before we reach the main ridge. In other places, as at the outlet of the Arkansas from the mountains, these mountains spring up, as the eternal barriers of the plains, directly from their base. One mountain is distinguishable from all the rest. We have wished that it might be denominated Mount Pike, from the name of tiie intrepid and adventurous traveller, who gave us the first account of it. Its black sides and hoary summit arc a kind of sea mark at immense distances over the plain. It elevates its gigantic head, and frowns upon the sea of verdure, and the boundless range of buflaloes below, taking its repose, solitary and detached from the hundred mountains apparently younger members of the family, which shrink with filial awe at a distance from it. Missoirni TERRITOnV. 451 The RfK'ky Monntiiiis coininoiico in tlto unexplored regions to ihe north-west of the IJiiiU-d Stiitrs; and ninying acrops the sources of tlie Missouri, the Uoclie Jaiiiio, Plnttp, Arkanstis, and Hod River, in the Mexican States of Tox:is nnd ('(lahiiiln, llicy diverge and unite with the ranges of Mexican monntaiiig. They separate the waters of the great tributaries of the Missiasippi from those that full into the Columbia, or Multnomah, the (Ircat Lake of Bueneventura, and other waters of the Pacilic. They have u i'ar gre;iter extent than the Alleghany Mountains, are a wider range, and for the most part run, like them, in parallel ridges, though gonoraliy more ragged, detached, and broken, and are by no means so regular. They are, also, of a character decidedly more primitive. Tlioir black, precipitous, and frowning appearance has probably given them the name of the Rocky Mountains. Their bases have an elevation of between 'i and 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. James', or Pike's Mountain has been given aa 12,000 feet in height. As this vast range of mountiins is as yet but very imperfectly known, there is little reason to doubt, that many of the peaks, when more fully explored and more accurately measured, will be found to approach much nearer in height to the highest ranges in Mexico, than has been commonly supposed. Most of the more elevated summits are above the point of perpetual con- gelation. It one respect they resemble the AUeghanies. In numerous places the waters that run into the Pacific, rise near those that fall into the tributaries of the Mississippi. Thus has nature kindly provided points of easy transit from the eastern to the western side of these frown- ing and apparently impassable barriers of nature. By communications of unquestionable veracity, from persons engaged in the Missouri Fur Company, we learn that following up the vallies of the sources of the Platte to the opposite vallies of waters, that fall into the Great Lake of Bueneventura, on the other side, a good road was found, and easily passa- ble by loaded wagons. The waters of this great inland sea were found by General Ashley to be much Salter than those of the ocean. He descended a boatable river 150 miles to reach it. He coasted it with canoes, and found it to be 100 miles long, and from 60 to 80 wide. From this lake he returned to St. Louis in 70 days. He found game so abundant that he could have subsisted 1,000 men on their whole route. The caravan crossed the mountains by the valley of the North Fork of the river Platte. The ascent and de- scent of the mountains never exceeded three degrees. Many of this party had been in these remote mountain-solitudes five years in perfect healtli. This line, when viewed at a distance, every where seems continuous, iron bound, and impassable. The mind recoils from the attempt as hope ii II .*■'. u \ I 453 MISHOIiHl TliRlirrORT. less, to find a way over such rrowiiiiijj ami I'orinidablc IniiicrH. 'I'licro h no doubt, that wifliin half ii (•(uilmy \\ui waters of the iMi.ssissippi will Ijo united with thoRu of the western sea liy iiavi^fal)liM:in;ils. Whnt are called 'The Gates of tin! Rotky Moiiiilaiiis,' llndiiMJi wliicli the Missouri HceniH to have torn itself a |>assa;L,'o, arc coininonly desciihrd as among the suhliinest spectacles of this ran<,'e of inoiintaiiis. \'\,r nearly six miles these mountains rise in black and ))erpoiidicnhir masses, 1,800 feet above the surface of the river. The chasm is lillle more ilum 150 yards wide; and the deep an Moines. An interesting and accurate account of St. Peter's is given i.i Long's second expedition. It is one of tiie princii)al upper waters of the Mississippi, and has a course of !250 miles, ft enters the Mississippi at the falls of St. Anthony, by a mouth 150 yards wide, and a depth of 15 feet water. The principal tributaries of the Missouri arc given in the following table: ^() foot in lioiyht. Neosho River, 1, ()()(). ArlaiiiHiH, :ii the base of Jurnos^ Peak, Vi,. ''/(UK Summit of the peiik, ll,(Uli> frijt. The surface mid soil of this vast extent of (viuntry isdilli'iciit fn in any other of the same diiiusiisioiis on the ;;lohe. Tlie lower coiust's of all ilu. rivers that enter the Mississippi from this re;j;iou arc wooded. In [)ropor lion OS wc ascend towards tlie mountains, tiie wood Ixcumcs morescarco, nnd the upper tributaries of these htrenms run tlirou<.di open pruiritj.s, There is also a fertile belt along the banks of all these streams; but in proportion as we diverge from them the land becomes more sterile and parched. We sometimes may travel whole days without seeing water. Great extents of this country may be likened to the great Sahara of tlm African deserts. There is, however, in the most sterile i)art9, a thin sward of grass and herbage. Counties droves of bullalocs, elk, and deer range upon these vast prairies. These will, pro!);ibly, in some future period of our national existence be replaced by herds of domestic cattle, and flocks of sheep, followed by moving bands of shepherds. Almost the whole courses of the Missouri, Platte and Yellow Stone are through a rich soil. The same may be afilrmed of Red River. The upper courses of the Arkansas are through the most sterile region of this ocean of prairies. Climate. In a country of such immense extent, generally level, naked and open, the climate must of course in a great measure correspond to latitude. The first climate beyond the state of Missouri and the Territory of Arkansas is mild and temperate. Tiie belt beyond has nearly the climate of New England. Still further towards the mountains it is Ca- nadian. Pike and other travellers speak of encountering storms of sleet and hail in the summer, near the sources of the Arkansas. When tiie winds blow from the west over the summits of these mountains, and bring down on these vast plains the temperature of the regions of perpetual frost, we may of course expect such changes of temperature near their bases. We select the following table, as compiled by Mellish, from the travels of Lewis and Clark, as conveying a synoptical view of the climate of this country. # M18HOUR1 TUERITURY* 455 if^'ht'sl. Lowcat. Mean. Vrcrailing winds. fiS'^ '12° 03° S. E. & S. W. ('/» 32 47 N. W & S. E. (52 38 12 —15 31 N.W.&S.E. N. W. 40 -40 18 2 31 11 28 N. W. N. W. &- S. N. E. At S. E. 80 24 40 N.W.S.&W. 82 28 52 S. W. 7fi 35 sn S. W. 90 52 65 s. w. 01 31 57 s. w. I SOI. Sipt. 10to30, niy TJon-l to Hiciirrc, l;il. 4«P, ()rt. Ricrirct: to Mniulun, (I lat. 47'^ 30', ^ Nov. Fort Mamlan, Dor. I'ort Maiidan, lH()r». Jiin. Fort Mtindiin, Feb. Fort Miirulaii, Mnrch. Fort Maii(l;iii, April. Fort M ind;in to 24 ] miles lioyond Martini's River, lat. 48°. Mav. Martha's River to Stone Wall ('reek, lat. 47° 15', Juno. Stone Wall Crook j to falls of Missouri, lat. > 47° 15', ) Julv. Falls to Philosophy ) ilivcr, lat 45°, \ A\\^. riiilosnpliy River tn^ the head waters ot' Colum- bia River, lat. 44°, N. B. — Signifies below Zero. OEXERAT, nEMAKKS. September 23. The nir remarkably dry. October 5. Slight frost. 18. Hard frost. 27. Went into winter quar- ters at Fort Mandan. November 0. Strong frost. 13. Much drifting ice. 30. Indians cross the river on the ice. December 5. Excessive N. W. wind. 7. River closed. 28. Strong wind. January 3. Snow 9 inches deep. 8. Snow 10 inches. 19. Ice 3 feet thick on the most rapid part of the river. March 2. River partially open. 26. Ice broke up and descended in immense shoals. 30. Ice floating in great quantities. April 1. A fine shower of rain, the first since the 15th of September. — The air dry and remarkably pure. April 4. Hard gales ; scarcely any timber to shelter the country, and the winds blow with astonishing violence. April 7. Left Fort Mandan. April 11. Vegetation ajipears. 18. A heavy dew, the first since the 15th of September. 21. White frost. May 2. Violent wind; snow and v(;getation intermixed. May 1. Snow disappeared- 9. Choke cherry in bloom. May 18. Wild rose in bloom. 23. Strawberries in bloom. May 26. The air warm, fine and dry. \L' ^;II ^r.»i iM' ">y >■* IllJIllWll -WP^mBW -"-"¥-W"^»^P"^^P^P1!" ^^^^^^^^^^^^T^ I'mmwJi^jif'^m^limmtwmjffit " ■^ :,*• 450 Missouni TERniTOnY. •f*- June 27. Thunder, liglitning, and liail so large llmt one stone was 7 inches in circumference, and wcij^hcd 3 ounc(;s. July (*>. Rain, thunder, and hnil; a blackbird killed by the latter. July 7. Near the sources of Missouri. 21. A sudden cold caused a dillerence of 513° in the thermometer in 8 hours. At Council Bluffs, in the summer of 1S20, the greatest heat was 105°, and the winter's cold 22° below Zero. Same year at St. Peters, 98° heat, and 30° below Zero cold. This country is part of the purchase of Louisiana, and has been ex- plored by Lewis and Clark, by Pike, and the gentlemen of Long's expe- dition. We have gleaned information, also, from hunters and trappers, who b-.ve traversed it in all directions, and who have lived long in it. It is inhabited by various tribes of Indians, of whom the Sioux are the most numerous. . The whole number is estimated between 130,000 and 140,000. Much important information, touching the south-west part of this vasl region, has been recently alforded by IMr. James C. Pattie, who passed 7 years, in trapping, on the upper waters of the Arkansas, Platte, Yellow Stone, and other waters of the Mississippi, on the Ilelay of Rio del Norte a river before unexplored by wjiite people, and which he ascended from its junction with the Del Norte to its head source. He crossed the Rocky Mountains in various points, and a number of times. Most of the peaks were found covered with perpetual snow. He descended the Rio Colo rado, n* Red River of California, from its source to its junction with the Pacific. It is a large river, with a course, by its curves, of more than 1,000 miles J and in many of its chartictevistics, particularly in the extent of its alluvion, it resembles the Mississippi. It waters a beautiful and interesting country, on which not a vestige of civilized habitancy exists. Its whole course is through forests and prairies, and undescribed tribes of naked savages- He visited a salt hill not far from the sources of the Platte, and loaded mules with the salt, for Santa Fe. He discovered in the uninhabited country, ores of iron, copper, and silver in great abund- ance; a great variety of useful fossils, and a country altogether of aniost interesting character. i\iM\fi}m- .■! I stone was 7 cat was 105°, ters, 98° heat. 1. !...'''- OREGON TERRITORY. This Territory has been so named in the Con"ressional discussions that have taken place in reference to the country. It is a country of vast extent. Its southern limits are clearly defined in our late treaty with Spain, being on the 42d parallel to the Pacific. Our limits to the north- west are yet in question with those of Russia, which claims to the 51st parallel. Our limits with Great Britain are the 49th parallel. It has, therefore, the British and Russian possessions on the north ; the Pacific on the west; the Mexican dominions on the south, and the Territories of Arkansas and Missouri on the east ; and may be assumed as stretching between 41° and 49° N. latitude, and 34° and 4S° W. longitude. The stupendous ridges of the Rocky Mountains, which we have already de- scribed, bound this country on the east. The waters that rise in the west- ern declivities of these mountains How into the Coluribia, the Multnomah and the lake Bueneventura. Mosi of the elevated summits of the moun- tains are above the limito of perpetual congelation. Beyond the mountains the country descends by regular belts, in the form of immense terraces, or descending plains, disposed regularly, tlie unc below the other. Be- yond the first plain, and between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific is another extensive and high chain of mountains, in which arc the great falls of the Columbia. Still west of Iheso, and ruiming parallel with the coast, and at the distance of 150 miles, is the third and last chain. The peaks of all these chains arc covered with perpetual snow. The highest peaks have been named Mount Baker. Mount Regnicr, Mount St. Helens, Mount Iloorl, and Mount Jcifcrsou. 5S II It' 1 1' If m n < '•*•»>. mm »#■ flPiPii mmmni^m 458 OULOON TKKKITOUY. The only rivers explored in this region are the Columbia and its branches. Tliis noble river lias its head wnlers near lliose of the Missouri. It collecis its tribute for a wide extent alon^ the western dividing ridges of the Rocky Mountains. Immediately ii])on emerging from these mountains, it has become a broad and deep stream. Having recei\'ed Clark's and Lewis' Rivers, each laige slrearns from the east, it is idready 9G0 yards wide, It there fl^rmsa great southern ';cnd, and l)reaks through the second chain of mountains. One hundred and thirty six miles below are the great falls, where the river descends in one rapid 57 feet. Below those falls ii winds first to the north-west, and then to the south-west, and passes througli the third chain of mountains; where it is again compressed to the widih of 150 yards. Below this rapid, at 180 miles from the sea, it meets the tide, beyond which it has a broad estuary to the sea. Sixty miles below the rapids, Multnomah, a very large and unexplored tributary falls in fror^. the north-eust. The mouth of the river is in 4()° 24', and the tide tiiere rises eight and a half feet. The Columbia and its tributaries abound in the finest salmon, which seem in fact to constitute the chief article of food of tlie savages west of the Rocky Mountains, Seals and other aquatic animals are taken in this river in great numbers; and tjie skins, shipped to China, constitute the chief article of trade from this' great river. A number of the head streams of the Missouri interlock with the waters of this river, as Wisdom River, with Clark's of the Co- lumbia ; and JetFerson of the Missouri with Lewis' of the Columbia, Clark's River has a course, between 2 and 300 miles in length, before it unites with the Columbia. Lewis' River is a large and long tributary of the Columbia. In its course, it receives North F*^ 'k and Kooskooskee, and after winding 600 miles, falls into the Columbia from the east by n mouth 250 yards wiue. The geological character of this country is Utile known; but the west ern declivities of these mountains are presumed to be primitive and granitic. The country must have an abrupt slope to the Pacific, descend ing as much in 600 miles to the west, as it does in 1,500 to the east. The summits of these mountains of course aie sterile, being ragged rocks, and covered with snow the greater part of the year. But among these mountains there are sheltered and tortile vallies. The timber in the mountains is pine, spruce, fir, and the other terebinthines. The terrace plairs below generally have a fine soil, but are very deficient in timber. The i^rairics, like those on the eastern sides of these mountains, are cov- ered With grass, and a profusion of morft beautiful flowers. Among the prairie plants are two or three kinds of edible roots, which furnish vpjje- table food to the savages, as an aid to the great proportion of salmon which they devout Wjjd 5?'4gr is iIpo ;v- v 1 11 1 '21 8 1 2 1 1 6 ■%A ! '1 » t (P 'fki 400 OREGON TERUITORT. < January. 12. 14. 25. 28. February. 8. March. April, May. fune. i*-. 24. 1. 13. 15. 25. 26. 30. 6. 12. 3. 10. 22. 27. 2. 3. 5. 6. 22. July to 8. 5. HEM.4HKS. September. Fair 19 dnys, rain 7, snow 4 days. October. Fair 24 days, rain .'i, cloudy 2. November. Fair 7 days, raiu 17, cloudy 0, December. Fair .3 days, rain 27, cloudy 1. January. Fair 7 days, rain 10, cloudy 3, snow 2. The loss of the thermometer sincerely regretted. The parties confident that the climate is much warmer tiinn in the iiaino parallel of latitude on the Atlantic Ocean. Tliere has been only one slight white frost since the 7th of Nov mber. "'We have seen no ice, and the weather is so warm that we are obliged to cure our m6iit with smoke and fire to save it.*' The wind from any qu;uter olV the land, or along the north- west coast, causes the air tr. become cooler. Weather perfectly temperate. . Never experienced so warm a winter as the present. It is now percv'ptibly colder than it has been this winter. Pretty keen fro ,t. The coldest night of the season. Fair 6, rain 10, cloudy 5, snow 1 day. The feeling of the air indicated that the rigor of the winter had passed. Quii3 warm. Fair 8, rain 16, cloudy 7. So warm tha^ ^re was unnccessar} . Plants began to appear above ground. Plants put forth their leaves. Gooseberry bushes in leaf. Humming birds appear. Grass 16 inches high in river bottoms. Fair 20, rain 7, cloady 3 days. Cotton wood in leaf. Vegetation is rapidly progressing in the bottcms, though the snow reaches within a mile of the base of the mountains at the Rapids of Columbia. Fair 19, rain 5, cloudy 6, snow 1. An increase of snow in the mountains last evening Weather cold with a heavy fall of snow. The air remarkably dry and pure. The snow has disappeared on the high plains, and seeirs to be diminishing fast on the spurs and lower regions of tlie Rocky Mountains. Fair 20, cloudy 5, rain 5. A great rise in the river in consequence of the melting of the snow in the mountains. River at its greatest height. TJio wild rose in bloom. The vining honey-suckle in bloom. Strawberries ripe at Quashnash Flatts. Fair 6, rain 2 days. A dew this morning; ihc nights cool; (he musquitocs tioublo some. erienced so warm ains, and seeirs to (he melting of the (lUsquilocH tioublo OREGON TEURITORY. 401 f). In tlic open plniii tlioro was a violent wind from the north- west, accompanied by hard rain. ^ 8. A heavy shower, accompanied by hard rain from the south- west. This country was first discovered by the Spaniards. In 1701, Captain Gray, of the ship Columbia, of Boston, entered the river, and from his ship it received its name. It was occasionally entered by navigators after- wards. In 180.5, Lewis and Clark descended this river from the moun- tains to the Pacific, and spent the winter on its shore. They returned Ly the same river to the mountains; and most of the exact information tliat we have of the country is from them. For some years a settlement of fur traders, called Astoria, has existed here. The chief intercourse of this place is with China. The question of settling this delightful country permanently, has been more than once debated in Congress. Were such settlements authorized and rendered secure by the requisite military establishments, there can be no doubt but it would receive largo accessions of immigrants. The number of Indians of the diflerent tribes is estimated at 140,000. A company is understood to be now forming, of emigrants principally ftom New England, who intend to assemble at St. Louis, ascend the Missouri, and cross the mountains to the plains of the Oregon. Settle- ments to a consideral)le extent already exist on this river. Many of the settlers are understood to be British witliin the territorial limits of the Lfnired S'ates. They have great stocks of cattle, sheep, and horses. On aslreamthat enters the Oregon not far from the Great Falls, they have mills, and admirable water privileges for an indefinite number. It is con- fidently believed, that no part of the territory of the United States, in point of soil, climate, and commercial advantages, holds out stronger in diicementsto emigrants than this country. As the Mexican States of Texas, Coahuila and Sonora, bound the country, admitted by the treaty of the cession of Florida, to belong to the United States in its whole extent, from the upper waters of Arkansas and Red River to the Gulf of California, it is presumed that a sketch of those States will not be unacceptable in this place It is well known that Texas has already received a very considerable proportion of its present population in emigrants from the United States. The body of trappers and traders from Missouri across the prairies to Santa Fe in New Mexico, is numerous and increasing. The trade has received a regular form, and has aiready had a very sensible effect upon the growth of the town of Santa Fe, and the adjoining country. Many of these traders have formed connecl.ons, and intermarriages, and have found homes there. Santa Fe may be considered, in some sense, an w Ui If I u-i\^ i' t' ;■< » , '* • ! I i ^ 'I ' 1 *. ' "£ 402 ORKtJON TERRITOUV. I I *i •I! 'I American town, the sloros being tilled with Aincrican go(;(![>, an 1 tliu streets witli American poopln. The Americans have explored the wliolc country from llie sources of the Rio del iXorte to its mouth, in Hcaicli ol" furs, and in pursv.it of u hicnitive tninic. 'J'horc are fnv of ihe towns of New Mexico, in which nine or less of thcin are not lo be found. Constantly oppressed by the ignorant, miserable, biivotted, petty dcsp-jis of tliese semi-barbarous regions, who assume to be republican rulers of an amicable sister republic, the United States cmigranl^-j li!:e t!ic Jews, multiply and thrive under the extortions and cruellies practised upon lli,:ni. Never was a more vivid and artless picture of these oppressions present- ed, than in the recently published journal of James O. Pattie of seven years wanderings and imprisonments among these i.cople. Having per- sonally explored all portions of the country toliio del Norte, and tlienro to the Pacific, we consider his narrative the most exact, as well as inter- esting account of that country, that has yet been published. He has reversed many previous impressions in regard to its sterility anddesiitu- tion of rains. Copious rains are noted in his journal, as evenls of fre- quent occurrence. In Texas and in Sonora he speaks with enthusiasm of the verdure and fertility of the country, in his diurnal movements. He is seldom out of sight of mountain-peaks, white with perpetual snow. His sketches of the Mexican people, of their superstitious devotion to the ceremonials of their church, of their amusements, and bull baitinw are fresh and graphic, presenting these singular semi-barbarians in a new light. He describes the tribes of the L'meds, p'iotaro, and Nabahocs, with a considerable degree of detail, as he traversed their wliole extent of country, and met tliem, both in batile and in friendship. He describes them as of uncommon stature, and the finest forms; and most of them, both males and females, entirely naked. Their arras were bows and arrows, the arrows of reed, headed with flint, and the bows rendered elastic by adding buffalo bones to the tough wood. These are the savages that occupy the country along ihc course of Rod River of California. In travelling from the estuary of that uninhabited river to the Catholic missions of California, he passed over an immense sand plain totally destitute of all herbage but the prickly pear. Here he and his party were near perishing of thirst. At length they reached a lake; but its waters were Salter than those of the sea. White bears, white wolves, antelopes, and mountain sheep were the animals they most fretpiently met. "White bears, in numbers and of a ferocity never before adequately described, render trapping and hunting in these regions a perilous employmenl, even were there no savages to encounter. His description of the country along the Gulf of California, occupied by the Catholic Missions, is of great interest and iVeshness. It corrcs- OUECJON TEliniTOUV. 4G3 pondK, in morif particulars, with the account of tiic country given hj l/;ngs(!ori" in his voyages and travels. Mr. Pat tiu visited each one of the !\liH.si(jn;n y stations, liaving been liberated from a long and painful iin- prisonnionl in San Diego, on the express condition that he should vacciu ii!c all the inhabitants of the several missions. *^ Jlctioscribes the country as one of the most channing and delightful of wliich the imagination can form an idea. Tlie missions are situated along a wide bc^lt of plain of the richest soil, literally covered with sheep, c;ittlo, liorses, and domestic animals. The missions are surrrnuided with lieautiful vineyards, yicitling pleasant and generous wine, and all the fruits of the temperate, ajid most of those of the tropical climates. Tie tmvellcd along this extensive plain from mission to mission, directly on the verg'i of the sea shore, viewing, on one hand, the expanse of the Pacilic, and the whales, sea lions, and other monstrous water dwellers performing tiieir unwieldy gambols; and on the other hand, mountains while with snow, from which innumerable cool streams descended to iriigatc tlie fields. The names of the missions are San Diego, San Luis, the largest and handsomest of the whole, St. John the Baptist, St. Gabriel, St. Ferdinand, St. Bueneventura, St. Barbara, Santa Cruz, St. Enos, St. Luis Obispes, St. Michael, St. John Capistrano, La Solada, San Carlos, St. Anthony, and San Francisco. In these places he vaccinated 22,000 persons, the greater portion of them converted Indians, the condition of whom he represents to be very similar to that of our slaves. They are carefully watclicd, to prevent their escape to their native forests. When the husbands and fathers of the females are absent, the holy fathers lock them up at. night, and preserve the key. These missions number their cattle, sheep, horses and mules by tens of thousands. Though in a trop- ical climate, the temperature was uniformly cool and delightful. The fathers have procured for themselves, by the aid of these thousands of converted Indians, the most delightful abodes in the world. Their apartments were sumptuously furnished. Their tables were spread with plate, and an ample supply of the most delicious wines; and they have had the good i'urlune 1o have secured for themselves a paradise in these solitary regions, as a prelibation of the rewards reserved for them here- after, for their labors in converting the heathens. This country is contig- uous, and these people will be the nearest whites to our settlements in the Oregon Territory. Mr. Austin, formerly aciti/cn of the Umted States, has settled, under the auspices of the Mexican government, a considerable colony, composed almost entirely of emigrants from the United States, on the Brasses and Colorado, rivers of Texas. The town of San Felipe de Austin has a compact select of some length, publishes a gazette, has a number of n mmi^4^^ vW'&Wm .&,. 464 OttCliON TERRITOKV. i I *■ attornics and piiysicians, and a respectable scliool. Small vessels contu up to this town, which is 40 or 50 miles above the mouth of the river. Tho eastern border of Texas about the lyish Bayou is chiefly settled with Americans. St. A.ntonio and Nachodochcs are' the only considera- ble villages of the interior. Nachodochcs is 60 miles west of the Sabine, and contains about 400 inhabitants. St. Antonio is 1,300 miles further south-west, on the head waters of tlie river St. Antonio, in 29° 50' N. latitude, and contains between 2 and 3,000 inhabitants. Trinity is a considerable stream of Texas, running parallel with the Sabine, and 150 miles west of it. Tlie next important river is the Brasses, which has a course of between 4 and 500 miles. The Colorado is a river stiU'further west, of about tho same length and course. Two hundred miles' further west is the Rio del Norte, which has a course, including its windings, of 1,000 miles. ^$} END OF VOLUME 1. -?' bis coniu river, ly sctllcd ;onsidera- le Sabine, 33 furtiicr [)o 50' N. rinity is a , and 150 ich has a iU'further es" further ndings, of