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FORGET, President Richelieu «c Ontario Navigation Co. THK Beauty Spots OF CANADA. DIvSCRlI'TlVK OF THAT DKIJOHTFn, TRIP DOWN TIIIv klVlvR ST. I.AWRENCIv AND VV THK \VORIJ)-FAMKI) SAOrKNAV. --\;u^ (gSOfe IhlAJSTRATnD. |!-gj>- Official Guide, 1895 ISSUED BY THE PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OK THK RICHELIEU:& ONTARIO NAVIGATION CO., 228 St. Paui. St., Moxtreai,. ->«!»-C^ ENGRAVED AND PRINTED BY DESBARATS & CO. 73 ST. JAMES STREET, MONTREAL. ( ) P I^M C K I< tS RicHHLiKr \- Ontario N.\vi(;.\ti()\ Co L. J. FoRC.KT, Prcsitlnil. C. I'. (;ir.i)iar .lorn/ , Mo,iln-al. .[. I'. Doi.AN, nistrid /',i.ss,J/o,r .l<;r)i/, Tuiouto. L. H. .MvKAM), .Ion//, (J/tr/xr. Kntered, acconlinu to Act of the I'arlmineiit of C:ma>/ ('onif^iiiiy -C ^^.t^"M^:- V 1 4 ff" P!r 1 •■.*\-i^>' m_ m «^ M 1 » _' Sl'Ol- WHKMK SIK ISA \C IIKOCK IICI.I. AT (Jll I.NSIll.N IlKllill IS llic'ir rcadcTS ati ituprc-s- sioii of the j^raiid .spect- acle. 'I'liat most ^racflul of tuodcrii ICn^lislj writ- cr.s, Charles Dickens, de- scribes his fecliiijis on first lieholdin^ Niaj;ara, in his .tninittui A/o/cs, and jMohahly no descri]>- lion has been more widely read or nu)re frt(|nentl>' (|noted. Ucsays: — "At len};th we alighted ; and then '"'M- tho first ti'uj I hea- . themij?h'> rush of water, and felt :he ground tremble underneaih my fei^. The bank is very steep, and was slippery nith rain anrl iialf melted ice. I harii>, know how I got down, but I was .soon at the bottom, and climbing, with two binglish oflicers who were crossing and bad joined me, over some broken rocks, deafened by the noise, half blinded by the spray, and wet to the skin. We were at the foot of the American Fall. I could .see an immense torrent of water tearing headlong down from .some great height, but had no idea of shape, or situation, or anything but vague immensity. When we were seated in the little ferry boat, and were crossing the swollen river immediately before the cataracts, I began to feel what it was ; but I was in a manner stunned, and unable to comprehend the vastne.ss of the .scene. It was not until I came on Ta])le Rock and looked -great Heaven, on what a fall of bright green water I — that it came upon me in its full might and ma- jesty. Then, when I felt how near to my Creator I was standing, the first effect, and the enduring one — instant and lasting — of the tremendous C.OVKRNMKNT HOfSK, TORONTO; RRSIDENCI-: OK TIIK I.IKfTKNANT-COVr.RNOR. s '///(■ r>(Liuty S/ii>/s of i'aiiada. spectacle, was Teacc. Peace of inind, Iraiuiuilily, calm recollections of the dead, great tliouj;!!:s of eternal rest and happiness; nothing of gloom or terror. Niagara was at once staniped npon my heart, an image of beauty : to remain there changeless aiul indelilile, until its pulses cease to beat forever. Oh, how the strife and trouble of daily life receded from my view, and le.s.sened in the distance, during the ten memorable days we pas.sed on that enchanted ground 1 What \oices spoke from out the thundering water ; what faces. J • . ) ^% Mi fi Ji ■■■■'-> £?Q^ r ."*% j, r ^ ni % 1 -m ^ ^Sta! p /-> ^ m. ' 1" 1 Pffit'i l!i if 1 r^ IHV^. * *m -v^'fl^'f-^^^'wvHBIi |«» m <. 3- -;:,:;:• :-?l^P^^^-: - \ ■ ■ ( _ ^..- ■ -vJ TK1NIT\ COr,LK(.lC, T'/KONTO. faded from the earth, looked out upon me from its gleaming depths ; what Heavenly promise glistened in tho.se angels" tears, the drops of many hues, that showered around, and twined themselves about the gorgeous arches which the changing rainbows made I -•' ■''- ■•'• To wander to and fro all day, and see the cataracts from all points of view, to stand upon the edge of the great Hor.se-shoe Fall, mark- ing tlie hurried water gathering strength as it approached the verge, >et seeming, too, to pause before it shot into the gulf below ; to ga/.e from the river's level up at the torrent as it came streaming down ; to climb the neighboring heights and watch it through the trees, and see the wreathing water in the rapids hurrying on to take its fearful plunge ; to linger in the shadow of the solemn rocks three miles below ; watching the river as, stirred by no visil)le cause, it heaved and eddied and awoke the echoes, being troubled yet, far down beneath the surface, by its giant leap ; to have Niagara before me, lighted by the sun and by the moon, red in the day's decline, and gray as evening slowly fell upon it : to look upon it every day. i riir Ritliclicn c~ 0)i!a)io Navii^a/ioii i'onipa)iy )p.s )Ut Jits -k- ^e, to he ke ree it lar kre wake up in the nii^ht and hear its ceaseless voice ; this was enough. I tliiuk in every (|uiet season now, still do these waters roll and leap and roai and tumble, all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning them, a hundred feet below. vStill, when the sun is on them, do tliey shine and glow like molten gold. vStill, when the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow, or .seem to crumble away like the front oi a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. Jiut alwaws does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down, and always from its unfathomable grave arises that tremendous ghost of s])ray and mist which is never laid ; which has haunted this place with the same dread .solemnity since darkness brooded on the deep, and that first flood before the deluge — ^light- — came rushing on creation at the word of (lod." Since Dickens penned his magnificent description of one of Nature's grandest works, the river below the h^alls has been .spanned with bridges, hotels have sprung up on either shore, and facilities of approach have been multiplied, affording eas>- access to the vi- sitors. The gov- ernments of Ca- nada on the one side, and New York on the other, have won the gratitude of all by wresting from spectilalors the most desir- able points of ac- cess, and creat- ing five public parks, and en- al)ling the scene- ry to be enjoyed l)y visitors with- out the endless clamor for back- sheesh" in the MD.NTMKNT IN nll'.KN S I'.XKK. TORONTO, KRKCTF.n Taiiy I . porary record of the appet^rance of Toronto harbour, in a descriptive reminiscence of Surve>or- General liouchette, then engaged in a professional tour of the lakes. 'I distinctly recollect,' says tlie pioneer hydrographer, ' the untamed aspect which the country exhibited when first I entered the beautiful basin. Dense and trackless' forests lined the margin of the lake and reflected their inverted images in its glassy surface. The wandering savage had constructed his ephemeral habitation beneath their luxuriant foliage TIIK ISLAND I'AkK, TORONTO. — the group then consisted of two families of Missi.ssagas— and the bay and neighbouring marshes were the hitherto uninvaded haunts of immense coveys of wild fowl.' In the Indian language Toronto means 'The Place of Meeting,' for here it was that the old Huron and Algonquin tribes were wont to assemble. When vSimcoe made choice of his capital, he went energetically to work to create it. To tho.se who look upon Toronto in the glory of to-day, it must be said, he builded better than he knew. Marvel- lous has been the transformation, and that within the brief space of a century ! As yet, however, it was but the cradling-time of the city-that-was-to-be : and modest were its outlines even long after the vSimcoe regime. The real germ of the town was the Governor's 14 'Hw lieauty Spo/s of Canada. canvas tent (it had belonged to the navigator Captain Cook), in which, on an open space by the mouth of the Don, the sturdy soldier-administrator spent a winter, while the Queen's Rangers were set the task of hewing down the forest and clearing a site for the Upper Canada ' Westminster. ' The latter consisted of two large halls, in one of which met the Courts of Justice, in the other the Provincial Legislature. Circumstances, unhappily however, cut short Simcoe's stay in Upper Canada, and his removal came before CORNKR OR SIITTKR AND CHl'RCll STREETS, TORONTO. the buildings were ready for the first meeting of Parliament in the infant capital, which, in honour of the King's soldier-son, he had christened the royal town of York. This was the name the city bore up to the year 1834, when, with incorporation, it resumed its old Indian designation, the beautiful and sonorous appellative of Toronto. With the year 18 12, the infant city had for a dry nurse the hag of War, and heavy was the hand that reared her for nearly thirty months afterwards. Very noble is the story of this era in the annals of the young commonwealth. Though war was declared, nominally, against Great Britain, its brunt fell wholly, or almost wholly, upon Canada. Fortunately, she had then as acting-admi- The Richelieu of Ontario Navigation Company 15 OHdUUIlIC HALL, TORONTO nistrator a gallant ICnglish officer, vSir Isaac Brock, with a patriotic and high spirited community at his back to meet with courage and de- termination the sore trial through which the country was about to pass. Into the details of the contest it is unnecessary here to enter, save in so far as they con- nect themselves with the fortunes of Toronto. The war broke out in June, 18 12, and within a month an American army of 2,500 men crossed the Detroit river and entered Canada. At other points, chiefly on the Niagara frontier, and in the Lower Province, the country was subsequently invaded, but in all quarters was invasion heroically and stubbornly resisted. In the West, the invading army, having fallen back on Detroit, surrendered to General Brock ; but he joy with which this success was hailed was ere long turned io sorrow at the death of the young nation's hero on Oueenston Heights. With Brock there fell many a loyal citizen of York and gallant yeomen of the Province, and their death brought mourning into numberless bereaved homes. But York itself was now to sufler from a closer contact with the enemy. In the spring of the following year, the Americans fitted out some ships of war to had :ity its of flag irty the led, lost Imi- TORONTO UNIVERSITY. i6 Thr liciiHly Spots of ('anodn. THK I'AVII-I.ION — HOUTR 11. I IKAI, ('. AUIIKNS — I'OKON 1(). harass the bravo little colony on the waters of Ontario About the end of April, the \vhite-vvinj;e(l menace made it,s descent upon the cai)ital, Dearborn's troops effeclinj^ a landing near the Ihnnber River, under cover of a hot fire from the fleet. The attacking; column, A'hich was led by Ikigadier Pike, marched at once u]K)n Fort Toronto ; but though its defences were weak and the Canadian militia in numbers a mere hand- ful, the invaders re- ceived, as it seems by accident a horribly sharp and unexpected welcome. Thinking to take the fort easil\ by coup dc main. Pike pushed on his assault- ing column until it gained the outworks, when, suddenly, there was a terrific explosion, and the American brigadier, with 200 of his command, were luiceremoniously shot into the air The powder magazine, so tradition has it, had been fired by an artillery sergeant of the retreating defence, no longer able to hold the fort. The fuse was lit, it is said, undesignedly, at the crisis of the attack, and calamitous indeed was the result. De.spite the fell check, the Americans advanced upon the town, much of which was inconti- nently sacked and given to the flames ; the Houses of Parlia- ment were burned, together with the lib- rary and the public records, while every- thing of value that KN(I.\ COl.I.KltK, rORON 10. The Ricluiii'K & Ontario Kavi^iation Company. '7 could be removed was put on board the fleet. Three mouths later, the ill-starred capital had to submit to a further scorching at the hands of the Americans, to avenge the aid given by the York militia to the British commander in his defence of Burlington Heights. The war closed with well-won honours for the lirave little colony, the Treaty of Ghent having been signed towards the close of the year 1814. THE WOODIUNE (RACK TRACK;, TORONTO. With the return of peace, York set itself the task of laying anew the foundations of its material advancement. Immigration .set in, and increase of numbers not only gave a fresh impulse to the city, but led to the further development of the Province. vSince that time its growth has been steadily upward until to-day. What was once the little hamlet of York, is now the sturdy city of Toronto, with a population of over two hundred thousand." But our carriages have been waiting for .some time, and, regret- fully we close Mercer Adam's interesting book and prepare ourselves for sight seeing. I8 'J'lic Inituly Spots of Cnnado. I'irst of all, llu'ii, we drive up to Oueeti's I'arU atid make our first slop at the Tarliaiueut buildiuj^s, a stately pile, hut recently eo'upleted. Hurriedly we walk through its spacious corridors, glance in at the library, admire the l)eauty of tlie Assend)ly Chamber, and khen resume our drive. Hut a few rods away, in the western part of the i'ark. is Toronto University, the pride of the city. Not long ago an eminent linglish traveller observed that " tlie University of Toronto was, perhaps, the only jiiece of collegiate architecture on the American continent worthy of standing-room in the streets of Oxford." In its architectural features it belongs essentially to the Old World. The buildings are the special glory of the city ; the .style is Roman, the proportions being noble, and the harmony of the whole exciuisite. .Still driving through Queen's Park we approach \'ictoria University, much .smaller than its sister, but architecturally a gem. As we leave the Park we catch a glimpse of McMaster University, a grand looking structure of cut stone and pressed brick. Driving along liloor street, westward, we pass up St. George .street, one of the best residential streets in the city. The stately homes tell the tale of prosperity and comfort. Winding around eastward we cross Vonge .street and enter the charming suburb of Ro.sedale. Here the drives wind iu and out in a delijjhtfully irregular maimer, while on every hand are the magni- ficent homes of Toronto's wealthy citizens. One of the charms of Toronto, in fact the one that impressed us all, was the beautifully kept lawns and even quite extensive grounds which surround .so many of the homes. We have not time to drive through the Rose- dale ravines, ])ut catch glimp.ses of these .sylvan retreats as we cross the man}' high bridges leading back to Hloor street. Then we drive down Jarvis street over the smooth asphalt, and gazing with delight at the charming homes and well-trimmed lawns, gaily bedecked with flowers, we, too, are forced to admit that Jarvis street is one of the finest streets in America. At Carlton street we turn eastward, .so as to pass by the Horticultural (hardens, gay with flowers, and catch the merry laugh of children as they play about on ihe velvety sward, under the maples and stately elms. "The Gardens" is a favorite spot during the summer months, especially in the evenings when either the band of the "Queen's Own" or " (irenadiers " di.scourses sweet music. Pa.ssing down Sherbourne street we turn westward along Queen street to Church street. As we turn .southward on Church street we pass the Metropolitan ,; '1 th ily eet irn ith •ut he Ily or ne As tan /. O H 'A H •X' u. V. w 30 '/'/// /tfoidy S/>i>/.-. vSt retching back- wards, perpendicularly, from ihe waters niagin, are her great parallel lines of north-south streets which intersect nil the remaining streets of the city at right angles, thus giving the appearance of regularity and compactness to the whole. On the right hand side is the Don Valley issuing from the two converging Rosdale ravines, which in their solitary grandeur of stupenduous depth and lofty pine within their fold, remain the monument of some primeval drift. In front is the island which protects the harbour from the boisterous weather of the lake, extending its narrow strip of land almost across the we ists at hat : of lew^ )nd ,'er ^on- Ithe it nst KING STRKKr KAST, TOKUNTO. 24 llic /i('ai(/y Spots of Canada. entire Ijreadth of the city. Upon the surface of the bay can be seen the almost incessant movement of sliipping-vessels, vvitli their tall masts, steamboats plyins; between Toronto and other cities, or the island yachts with their jj^racefully buljj;ing sails, barges and myriad of canoes and skiffs dotted here and there among the larger craft. The whole scene is an imposing one and reflects great credit upon the boasted beauty, natural and acquired, oi the Oueen City, and the spectator is content to watch with the growing enchantment - which increasing distance lends, until the picture grows dim l)efore the eyes and fades from view in an indistinguishable haze. Scarcely has the radiant beautj' of the distant city disappeared from view when the steamer draws near its first stopping place. Port Darlington, about 44 miles from Toronto. It is a small place, but important, both on account of its brisk and flourishing flour and grain trade, and on account of its being the lake port of the town of Bowmanville (5,000), which is l)eautifulh situated inland about two miles and a half, in the midst of a fine agricultural territory. It is built on an elevated plateau, from which proud eminence it commands the boundless sweep of Lake Ontario's bowing waters. It is an enterprising town of important manufacturies (such^as organs and pianos), and of great industrial activity. The two sinuous streams that flow on either side of the town into the lake contribute an element of natural beauty as well as, in the water power they afford, of utilit}' to the industries of the place. The next stopping point is Port Hope, about 19 miles further along the coast. It can be descried from a long distance by means of its red-topped lighthouse, its tall elevators, the shipping wMthin its harbour, as well as by the folded hills within and upon which the town nestles in comfortable security. It is a very beautiful town, built as it is on either side of a valley through which flows a small stream. On the western side the hills rise gradually one above another fold on fold, until we reach the highest summit called Fort Orton, from which we have a commanding prospect of the interior, northward along the line of the Midland Railway, or if we turn our 1 ilVii» 1 '!#««£::■"•**«•":•— f ■ I.IHRAKV 01" TOKONTO IN I VKRSIT V . it ,'eep :ans hill lich ifiil /s a ove ^ort ior, our p 'r. O 2 o G y, < w o 'A 2L The licaHty Spots of Caitadcx. eyes southward from anionj; the foliage of the trees that crest these hills with nature's crown of glory, we can catch the distant swell of the gleaming wilderness of waves. The next stoppage is six miles further along the coast at Cobourg (5,000), a town of considerable business activity, it being AI.KXANDRIA IIAV. THOfSANI) ISLANDS. the distributing centre of an exceedingly fertile portion of the Pro- vince. It carries on an extensive trade in grain, iron ore, and other products in which it is favoured by the possession of a safe and commodious harbour and by its situation along the line of the G. T. R. It is a place of no mean pretensions to beauty, its streets being broad and neatly laid out, as well as frequently adorned by elegant public and private buildings. The drives along the eastern approaches of the town are very beautiful. It has more- over until quite recently (1892) been the .seat of one of the best academic institutions on the continent, Victoria University, which has since taken up its abode in Toronto. Soon after the steamer leaves Cobourg, the day is drawing near a close, and the voyage acquires a fresh interest for the mind that is responsive to the picture.s(|ueness of nature. The western sun is settling with its great halo of crimson light behind the Northumber- land hills ; ea.stward the clouds that hang like filni}^ draperies in heaven are roseate from the .setting sun. while toward the south and east, Ontario's waters, strttching far away into the grey horizon, reflect the splendour of the sunset scene from their imperial bosom. The Riclu'licH o~' Ontario Navigation Coin paw 27 until the view slowly dissolves itself, and the shadow of the coming night begins to brood upon the face of things. Darkness creeps along the distant reaches of the deep, and possibly- the moon, full- orbed or crescent, comes to shed its luminous rays upon the dark watery pathway of the great steamer as she moves along the coast of Prince Kdward County, past the Ducks, down toward the lower gap which opens into Kingston, the next stopping point. While she is plying her midnight way into the early hours of the morning, in silence — silence except for the throbbing of her huge machinery and the rush of waters from her bows — we shall leave her with all her slumbering passengers to trace a very pleasant detour through Murray Canal and Bay of Quinte, available to tourists by means of the Richelieu Company's new iron steamer " Magnet," which alone takes this route down, whereas all the steamers take this course on their return trip. The steamer takes a circuitous course from Cobourg to its next stopping place, Brighton, passing in the distance on the right the Sandbanks, the Scotch Bonnet Light and Weller's Bay. After rounding the Presque Isle light into the bay of the same name, it has to trace a devious way among the difficult and intricate chan- nels, buoyed by a system of range lights to facilitate navigation among its shoals, until finally the Port of Brighton is reached. This has a well-sheltered harbour, and is a di.strict of considerable THOUSAND ISLANDS SCENERV, 28 The luuni/v Spots of Canada. industrial activity, its inamifacturios covering flouring and plaster mills, a tannery, and cannering w^rks. From lirighton we cross the end of Presque Isle Hay to the Murray Canal, which has recently been constructed across the narrow isthmus that joins the Prince lulward Peninsula to the main land. This construction has been the means of opening up for a highway of steamboat traffic, the sinuous picture.'^quene.ss of the Bay of Quinte, with its splendid scenery of elevated shore capped by tall trees, and of long reaches which give the place a romantic beauty eminently fitting it for a field of summer pastime and recuperation. We cannot issue from the nar- row water of the canal with Its four spanning bridges (rail- way and three highway bridges) into the broader waters of the Bay of Quinte, without recalling to mind the historical incident connecting the name of the celebrated Champlain, founder of Ouebec, with the place. This intrepid explorer, with his gallant friend. La vSalle, penetrated beyond Lachine, the Ultima Thule of the colony in those days, into the dark forests of the western country, untrodden hitherto, except by the Indian, portaged this narrow neck of land from the carrying place to Weller's Bay, thus being the first white men to traverse in their birch canoes the devious windings of this sheet of waters, beside the sounding solitudes of nature's primeval forestry that clothes is l:)anks. After leaving the Murray Canal, the steamer courses along the j"'h shore, past Indian Island over to Trenton (5,000), at the mouth of River Trent. This is at once the centre of a fine agricul- tural district and the home of vigorous and varied industries which are favoured by the presence of exceptional water power and the distributing media of the great Grand Trunk Railway and the ■^wfW*^'^* A (IROl T Ol' TIIK riUHSAND ISLANPS. Till Richclini C^' Ontario A'^a:'/\ui//of/ Coin pan v. 29 steamboat lines. Its inanufacturies iiichule sasli, door and blind factories, paper mills, foundry and bridge works, flourinfj mills, canning, stove and heating factories, machine and cabinet shops, carriage and pump works, fanning mills works, and principal of all Oilmour .S: Co.'s mammoth lumber mill, one of the great(;st on the continent. The town has a beautiful and commanding site at the head of the IJay of Quinte, of which it has the sweep clear up to Belleville. On the west it is flanked by the sister mounts Pelion and Ossa from whose elevated sunnnits the lowlands and the bay, with its beautiful indentations of coast line, stretch before the eye in splendid panorama. Northward the eye can catch, amid the undulating hills of Sidney and of Murray, the gleaming waters of Trent's meandering stream, while southward, beyond the bay and the peninsula as far as the sight can reach, lies Lake Ontario's boundless blue, the waters of an inland sea. In the district is a notable monument of some primeval glacial drift which swept across the country southward, leaving this me- morial altar of the passage. It is a huge boulder, si- tuated near Gordin's Mills (some 22 feet high, length 42 feet, breadth 22 feet), one of those gigantic letters of self-revelation which Na- ture has bequeathed to human science to .spell out into the history of her -wr origin. Leaving Trenton, the steamer passes Baker's and Nigger's Islands on the left up the bay towards Belle- ville. On our right is Red- nerville, the principal ship- ping port of the Townships of Ameliasburgand Hillier, well known for their fruit industries. Their apple EKI. HAY, KKOM l-ALISADKS. THDl'SANU ISLANDS. 30 The Ih'ixiily Spots of Canada. prvidiiction is exceedingly progressive, 1)oth in (|nantity and quality. In Ihf distance over onr bows looms np bj^ this time the long and gracefnl span of Qninte Bridge, which is said to be the longest highway bridge in America — -the creditable product of one of Ik-lle- ville's manufacturing companies (CI. tS: J. Hrown). To the left before we reach the bridge is seen the l^rovincial Deaf and Dum!) Institute, whose purpo.se is to instruct its unfortunate pupils into a practical knowledge of some useful trades and arts : to the males, printing, carpentering and shoemaking ; to the female pupils, domestic work, tailoring, dressmaking, .sewing, knitting, use of sewing machines and fancy work. As we near the massive bridge, its ponderous draw is opened at a signal from the steamer's whi.stle, and we glide swiftly through the chasm of the hugh structure which, from the distance, seemed to present an impa.ssable barrier to our progress. Immediately we are entering the harbour of the most populous place ( 1 1, GOO) of the district, Belleville, "the city of the bay." It is situated at the mouth of the Moira River down whose tumbling waters large numbers of logs are annually sent and which furnishes unlimited power for the numerous manufacturing industries of the city. These include l^ridge works, agricultural, mining and .steam engine machine shops, furniture and upholstering factories, axe and stove works, omnibus, carriage and street car factories, canning factories, biscuit and corset factories, woollen and flouring mills, tanner}', potteries, etc.; for the industrial life of the citj- is ver}- active and is surely destined to multiply and expand when the rich neighboring mines of iron, gold, galena, lithographic stone, slate, marble, mica, asbestos, are further developed, as they must in time, with the result of making Belleville one of the greatest exporting centres of Canada, both by land and water. A progressive city commercially, well built, well lighted, well paved, and provided with an electric street railway system, it is besides a place of no mean aesthetic pretensions. Its frequent beautiful residences, its hotels, its educational institutions, its county buildings, its well ordered streets and tree-lined avenues, as well as the pleasant bay- side drives along either the eastern or western approaches of the city, all combine to make Belleville a very attractive place of tem- porar}' abode for tourist, or home for perpetual dwelling. After leaving the city's docks and the roar and din of commer- cial life, the steamer scours along past Massassage Point, Belleville's w til of di riu Rith(lii}i 0~ Ontario Xiii'i'^atioii (oiiipanv. },\ ])leasant sunimcr resort, across the bay. It is a very attractive place, with its haiulsotne liotel and mimerous cottages within near reach of unexcelled fishing grounds, the haunts of the bass and niaskinonge. ON run CANADIAN SI 1 >1.— TUOIS A N 1 > ISLANDS. Proceeding, the steamer now enters an expansion of the bay across which she traverses past Ox Point ;ind Point Ann, with their inexhaus- tible limestone quarries, and liig I.sland. To the right is the village of North Port, the shipping place of the township of vSophiasburg, a district which produces large quantities of apples, cheese and hops. 32 Tlw Ihauly Spots of Ciuiadn. Movitij; on westward the steamer i)asses Telt'ji^ra])h Island vvilli its lighthouse, Peterson's Kerry on the rij;ht, and on the left the Mohawk Indian Reverse or Tyendenaj^a, a block of territory which the white intruder left to the ancestral owners of the whole land. It is populated by the vSix Nation Indians — Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, vSenecas, Cayugas and Tuscoraras — renir .its of the IN THK THOl'BANO ISLANDS. intrepid Iroquois who left the main stock of their people in New York in 1784 and came to Canada. Here they have settled down in peace while the white man, with his rushing railways and his noisy manufacturies, is rapidly obliterating the traces of his old hunting grounds, in the principal .solitudes which stretched along the margin of the great lakes, and where the Indian used to trail his stealthy way in hunt of animal or human foe. They are a Christian community as is attested by the grey spire of the Church that can be seen from the bay lifting its head above the clustering trees. In many ways they show exceptional gifts, e.specially in the line of practical arts such as needle work, for which the Mohawk mothers are famous. Even the children show a natural skill in drawing in which they evince a decided superiority over white boys of the same age. The men occupy themselves either at agricultural pursuits or in the employment of .some of Deseronto's various manufacturies. Before entering Deseronto's docks, we may take a passing glimp.se of Captain John's Island, a summer resort, just opposite Dcseronto, which has recently been fitted up at considerable expense. Its green-tinted hotel and cottages give it a very attractive appear- The RiiluliiK e~ (hilnn'i) Ndvi^nlioii Ci>»if>nny ^?> iite Use. jar- ance, while its position, at the aii^K' of junction of the I'icton and lielleville reaches, gives it a comniaiuHng view of a iarjije portion of the scenery of both. Deseronto is conspicuous from the (Ustance ])y the massive hiniher piles, the tall smoking chimneys from the mimerf)us large factories, some hrick-coloretl and some of the color of zinc ; by the dock-yards, with the stepmers and vessels in process of construction or repair, all giving a j)repossession to the spectator that this is surely a place of great industrial acti\ ity. And certainly I )escronto is a very energetic commercial centre. All its mass of varied industries is controlled by one company, the Rathbuns. TIicn- are the life centre of the whole industrial organism of the place. It is they who guide it all — saw mills, sash, door and blind factories, dry kiln, ship yard, marine machine shops, locomotive works, pas.senger and other car works, charcoal kilns, terra cotta works, pressed brick, hydraulic and Portland cement works, cold storage and elevators, a steamboat service including half a dozen steamers which touch at all bay ports and many of the American ports on Lake Ontario ; a railway system of considerable mileage penetrating northward to the summer resorts of the lakes in the adjacent counties. In fact the Rathbuns have been the agency by which this town has sprung from an insignificant bay-side wharf, near the Mohawk Indian settlement, to a thriving prospering town of great in- dustrial promise. About 1848 Hugo H. Rathbun .settled liere and erected large saw mills, etc. , which have expand- ed into the colo.ssal manufacturing sys- tem now under the direction of his son, E. A. Rathbun. The name of the place was changed succes,sively from Culverton's to Mill Point, and in 188 1 to Deseronto. The town is built on a hill which rises gradually from the water's edge northwards, thus giving it an imposing appearance FinDI.ER S ELllOW — LOST C IIANNICI,— C AN API AN ISLANDS. ,^4 riir lit it lily Sf^ols of Cautuin. Iioin tin- hay as it r^sls against iIr- liac'k,i;i()mi- wliere tlic Ik'lk'ville R'arli abruptly turns Irotn north-cast to south into the IMcton reach, it has a surve>' of the heautilul scenerv of hoth as well as, towards the east, ot the tortuous channels of the Xapanee River. Towards the west the 'relej^raj)]! Island Li.L;ht looms up in tlu' misty distance like a fairy tower lloatin^ on the water's surface ; towards the south, the louj; stretch of elevated coast, clothed in foliai^e j^reeii, seems to api)r()ach so close to the opposite shore away ahead as to leave apparentl>' onl\- a narrow gorj;e between, through which now aiul then appear the white sails of Nachts and schooners working up tlie reach. As the steamer ])as.ses up towards Picton, throuj^ih this so-called Lou;; Reach, we lind the scenery fully worthy ot its promise from the Deseronto docks. The shores on the rij^ht, or .Sojjhiasburg siile, are, for the most part, precipitous, risinji; often abrujitlN from the water's edge with onl>- a narrow marii^in of j;ravel beach, but in .some places it is less steeji, and the .grassy banks lead by a gentle dei'livity down to the water side. However, the farther we go on towards Ticton, the more clilT-like the shore becomes, until finally it looks like a perpendicular slab, with a few venturesome i)ines hang- ing from its beetling side. On the west side the shore is far less precipitous, but niakes uj) in jMclure.sciueness by its beautiful coast irregularity and undulating hills. ( )ne of the deepest indentations of this coast is the famous Hay Ikiy which extends inward .some fifteen miles. It is well known tor its duck and goo.se shooting grounds, and i)ass, sturgeon and Maskinonge fishing, as well as for being the historic home of the first Methodi.4 ohurch built in Canada, which stands there even yet, decrepit and vi .lerable, with its dis- mantled burial place, by the lonely waters ri the ba\-, slowly ripen- ing to destruction beneath the burden oi a Imndred years. The approaches of Picton are very beautiful, the shores being high on both sides, ])recipitous on one, though more sloping on the other, so that the farm-lands and pastures run down the declivity to the water's edge. The ])lace has an excellent and well-.sheltered harbour, which favours its extensi\'e shi])ping trade, making it, in coimection with the Central Ontario Railway, which terminates there, a good distril)uting centre for Prince lulward's fruit and grain products. It is a manufacturing town of .some importance, having several canning factories and foundries, and a ship yard for building I 4 M);i.st ions oine )ting lor (la, (llS- n- pe the iv to K'l'et in lates train •ing tline r. a r. r. < 36 Tiie Beauty Spots of Canada. DVEN ISI-ANn, .o/s of Canada. the Upper Gap from the lake. It is partly but ])al{l gravel on which stands a huge split-trunked elm visible for miles up and down the bay. The otlier part is overgrown with a dense grove of cedars whose shade makes it an attractive camping ground, and in earlier times made it a favourite haunt of passing Indians, many of whom now lie beneath its over-bowering trees, wrapt in the silence of eternal sleep. The .steamer now issues out upon the waters of the Upper Gap, and again we catch the sight of endless blue over our starboard side. Behind us lie the jutting headlands of Ouinte, backed i)y the dark-green hills of Glenora down the Adolphus reach. Over our (juarter is the coast of Amherst Island which we are rapidly ap- proaching, as we point our bow for the North Chainiel which separates the Island from the mainland on the north. Around us roll the slow swells of the lake, bareh' making themselves felt in the slight undulatory motion of the vessel. Here and there upon the water can be seen the graceful forms of white gulls careening on the waves. As we approach they lift successively on their narrow crescent wings, perform a mazy tracery of motion in mid-air, cro.ss- ing and recro.ssing one another, circling and intercircling in mystic figures, until they again alight in the distance upon the rolling water. On the right, as we pass into the North Chaimel, is Emerald, the upper landing of Amherst Island. It is the port of a prosperous agricultural district, and is the home of old artist Daniel Fowler, who.se achievements in landscapes and still-life representations have won him considerable prai.se. On the maiidand shore, a little farther on, is the town of Bath, formerly known as Krnesttown. This used to be one of the centres of civilization in Upper Canada, and it gave promise of developing into a flouri.shing city. But though it is the centre of a rich agri- cultural district and does considerable trade in grains, fruits and fishes, it has not expanded as rapidly as might have been expected. The next port of /►iiy ~'^-— -:: - -"-- -- importance is vStella (Amherst Lsland), 12 miles west of King- ston. It is a place not only of brisk in- dustries in the agri- c Tl ac Ba (lU th( for toi He As I'lic Ricliclicit c^' Oiifa)io Nan'oalio)! Company . 39 cultural line, but is a most pleasant summer resort with its pictur- esque and sheltered bay. There is a large summer hotel on Stella Point for accommodation of tourists, and the fishing- grounds are excellent. It is a convenient as well as a plea.sant retreat by reason of its neighboring supply stores, cable communications with the mainland, daily mail and steamboat service. The drives about the island are beautiful. p A VII.W ON TUT, ST. L A \\ K K N CK , FROM TI STKAMKR S DICCK. as nig- »lace ign- The steamer now steers a clear course for Kingston, past the Three Brothers Islands at the foot of Amherst, and vSalmon Island, across the broad waters of the Lower Gap, leaving the picturesque Bay of Quinte finally behind. Proceeding along the north shore w^e see the village of Catara- qui, adjoining which is Kington's " City of the Dead," containing the remains of the celebrated Sir John Macdonald, Premier of Canada for so many years, and Sir x\lexander Campbell among its silent tond)s. Farther on we behold the village of Portsmouth, distin- guished for its ship-building industry and trans-shipping facilities. Here also are located the Kingston Penitentiary, the Rockwood Asylum, and the Church of the Good Thief. 40 The Ih'aitty Spols of Canada. And now we are at Kingston, the Woolwich or West Point of Canada, with its massive grey stone forts, its niartello towers, its imposing public buildings. It is beautifully situated at the foot of Lake Ontario, at the head of the River St. Lawrence, and at the mouth of the Rideau or Great Cataraqui River which, with the Rideau Canal, connects it by waterway with Ottawa. A settlement was begun here by the French under Governor De Courcelles (1672), with the name of Fort Cataraqui, for the purpose of protecting the fur traders from the murderous depreda- tions of the Indians. His successor, Count de Frontenac, built a massive stone fort, giving it his own name, which still attaches to the county. This fort \\i -. altern^lely seized and delapidated by the French and English unti' . \