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I 1 2 3 4 5 6 I ■■r' zz ■i0 it, i! o JS > w 'iKw o to [-* V V It' ''vJB > V \1 (« ^ AK t« *-.\« w » ,7 M '^ i \ U J ,_ ft;: rja t<5 2 C !* M tM ►^ w fc '^ 1 ul/' > 11 r \?H > limy U) ilIU w m\ > WW i 0] TF KO pa " THE GOLDEISr STATE: A HISTORY OF THE REGION WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS; EMBRACING CALIFORNIA, OREGON, NEVADA, UTAH, ARIZONA. IDAHO, WASHINGTON TERRITORY. BRITISH COLUMBIA, AND ALASKA, |rom t\tt (^m\M ^txM U tUt ^xmnt ^ime: oiriMO A FULL Accovtn or THE DISCOVEUY OF TIIK COUNTRY; EARLT VOYAGES OF SPANISH, ENGLISH JfOUTUGUESE, FRENCH, RUSSIAN AND AMERICAN NAVIGATORS; RULE OF SPAIN, MEXICO, AND THE ^NITED STATES; EARLY SPANISH MISSIONS; REVOLUTIONS; CONQUEST BY MEXICO AND BY THE UNITED STATES; INAUGURATION OF AMERICAN CIVILIZATION: DIS- COVERY OF GOLD; MINING, MINERALS, COMMERCE, AGRICULTURE, AND MANUFACTURES; ALSO, A rCLL DESCRIPTION Or THB KOUNTAINS, SCENERY, VALLEYS, FORESTS, FLOWERS, RIVERS. LAKES, ISLAVDS, DESIIKTa WATERFALLS. BAYS, HA'^BORS, SPRINGS, GEYSERS, CLIMATE, SEASONS, NATIVES, BIRDS, FISHES, BEASTS, LANDS, NAVIGATION, ROADS, DITCHES, CANALS, POPULATIOA, CUSTOMS, SOCIETY, CHINESE, COURTS, LAWS, EDUCATION, SCHOOLS, ER- LIGION, CHURCHES, LITERATURE, EMIGRANTS, CITIES. COUNTIES. TOWNS, PBOFBSSIONS, TUAUKS, AMUSEMIITTS, Bio. WITH A HISTORY OF MORMON ISM AND THE MORMONS. By R. guy McCLELLAN^, (Reveuteen YearA a Resident uf the Paciflo Coast,) AUTHOR OF "REPUBLICANISM IN AMERICA," Etc., Illustrated with Numerous Maps and Engravings. PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM FLINT & COMPANY, PHILADELPHIA, PA., CINCINNATI, O., ATLANTA, OA., SPKINGPIEIiD, MASS. UNION PUBLISHING COMPANY, CHICAGO, ILLS. A. ROHAN Sc CO., BAN FRANCISCO, CAL. CONNOLLY A KELLY, HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA. W" a^L Z ^ Entered, .iccording to Act of Congress, in the year 1872, by R. GUY McCLELLAN, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. Entered, according to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year 187% by R. GUY iMcCLELLAN, In the Office of the Minister of Agriculture. Entered, according to Act of Parliament, in the year 1872, by R. GUY McCLELLAN, At Stationers' Hall, London, England. 'V. PREFACE. In presenting to the reader that region of the Republic of America lying west of the P vky mountains, a territory bewildering in its vastness, and fertile, rich, varied, wild, and picturesque beyond description, reveals its charms; and a history of unbounded fas- cination, leading its devious courses through the rough seas of the buccaneer and navigator, over the arid plains and precipitate moun- tains of the explorer, checkered and interspersed with the pilgrimages of the holy fathers, the march of conquering bqnds, the achievements of invading armies, the rise and fall of nations, the events of dis- covery and conquest, the revealing of unlimited treasures, the opening of new avenues of commerce, the building of new societies, the founding of new states, the advent of new social and religious con- ditions, the weird enchantments of the phantom king, gold, and the delusive and fascinating hopes of his devotees is unfolded. The binding together of the extremes of the nation by bands of steel, upon which the swift courser with iron hoof and fiery breath leaps over vast plains and climbs arid heights in his journey from sea to sea, the broad-winged messenger of commerce teaching the lesson of exchange and intercourse to the Orient and new republic, daily tend to awaken interests in our newest but richest half of the nation, and familiarize the people of every clime with the vit^rivalled beauty and attractions of that vast domain, passing from the chaos of bygone ages into the activities of unsurpassed social and com- mercial life. So little is known abroad respecting the vastness, fertility, natural wealth, genial climate, and great development of the Pacific slope, that I write in the ardent hope of drawing the attention of the public of America and the adventurous of all lands to a section embracing more than one-half of the area of the whole American Republic, and 3288^ i6 THE GOLDEN STATE. containing more of the precious metals than all the world beside — a land whose giant mountains in their eternal ermine crowns, looking from their thrones of clouds, forest trees lifting their arms toward the sky, and mountain urns tumbling their crystal floods from aerial . heights, present the grandest scenes of terrestrial beauty. Many books have been written respecting the Pacific coast and its people ; but, in most cases, they have been the result of the ex- aggerated and distorted visions of early voyagers, or the superficial •observer, catching brief glimpses of the Sierras in hurried trip from ocean to ocean, or the wila dreams of some enthusiast fresh from the snows of the East, plunged into the flower gardens of the Golden State, and sipping the rich wines of Los Angeles at the festive boards of kind friends. In producing a History of the whole Pacific Coast, from the northern extreme of Alaska to the tropical regions of Mexico, I have brought to my aid the experience of seventeen years residence and active participation in the stirring events and business affairs of the country, and extensive travel and observation in California, Nevada, Oregon, Utah, Idaho, Washington Territory, and British Columbia, where, by the camp-fire of the pilgrim gold-hunter, in the dark chamber of the mine, on the tedious march, and dangerous ascent of the mountain height, the checkered fortune and uncertain fate, I have been enabled to present from personal and long experience the chief events whereof I write. ILLUSTRATIONS. Yosemite Falls and Valley, Aurora Borealis, as seen in Northei . Alaska Map of North America, . . . The Golden Gate, . . . Sir Francis Drake 'n California in 1579.. . Spanish Ship of the Seventeenth Ccatury, The Golden Gate and Bay of San Francisco in Montgomery Street, San Francisco, in 1849, Mission of Santa Barbara in 1786, . Father Garzes and the Indians in 1775, Mission of San Carlos in 1770, . . Frontier Fort, .... Mud Volcano, .... Falls of the Yellowstone, , . . Dale Creek Bridge, Rocky Mountains, . Sherman, Summit of the Rpcky Mountains, Monterey, California, in 1846, Mission Rancho, California, in 1776, . Mission of San Francisco in 1776, . New Almaden Quicksilver Mines, Dennison's Exchange and the Parker House, Island and Cove of Verba Buena, Sutter's Mill — First Discovery of Gold, . James W. Marshall, Discoverer of Gold, " Honest Miners " Going Home, . ■ • Surface Gold Mining in 1849, • Interior of the El Dorados, . . San Francisco in 1849, Celebrating the First Fourth of July, J836, First Protestant Church in San Fraucie.o, Rush to the Gold Mines in 1848, . . Horse-Raising in California, . . Map of the State of California, . . Night Scene on the San Joaquin River, Night Scene on the Sacramento River, . The Ford of the Yosemite, . . Mount Shasta, .... 1769, (»7) VAOS. Title IS 21 33 40 40 48 48 52 52 64 70 74 75 78 8? 86 86 loi idi no no 116 lao 120 121 121 124 124 ^33 133 140 »47 154 »54 15s ^5$ i8 ILLUSTRATIONS. " Big Trees " of Mariposa and Calaveras, The Pioneer's Cabin : Room for Thirty Inside Nevada Falls, Yosemite Valley, Section of Mammoth Tree, A Cotillon Party on the Stump of the Mammoth Tree, Lake Tahoe, Sierra Nevada Mountains, Mirror Lake, Ycsemite Valley, . Sentinel Rock, Yosemite Valley, . Donner Lake, Sierra Nevada Mountains, Seal Rock and the " Cliff House," Farallone Islands, . . • Sea Lions near the Golden Gate, Yosemite Falls, South, or Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, . Cathedral Rocks, Yosemite Valley, Bull and Bear Fight, . Whale Fishing off the Coast of Alaska, Emigrant Train — Gold Hunters, Chinese Gold Mining in California, .Miners Around Their Camp-Fire, Snow Sheds, Sierra Nevada Mountains Hydraulic Mining, Mail Sei-vice in the Sierra Nevadas, ■ Crossing the Plains, , . Moving on the Plains, , . Rodeo — Cattle-Brand-.ng, . Lassoing Horses in California, . The Giantess, . Great Geyser of the Fire-Hole Basin, The Bee- Hive, Bridal Veil Fall, Yosemite Valley, North Dome and Royal Arch, Cape Horn, Sierra Nevada Mountains, Tunnel in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Lakes in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Lincoln School-House, San Francisco, First School-House in San Francisco, Mount Tamalpais, . , Summit of the Sierras, First Hotel in San Francisco, . Grand Hotel, San Francisco, San Francisco Destroyed by Fire, San Francisco in 1847, • • PAGB. 162 163 163 166 166 170 181 196 202 202 214 218 .218 219 236 344 «S8 271 281 281 290 3^ 336 343 348 3S4 354 354 355 355 360 366 366 382 382 420 443 454 454 458 458 ILLUSTRATIONS. 19 Custom House, San Francisco, m 1849, Post Office, San Francisco, in 1849, . A Buffalo Hunt on the Plains, . , Giant Geyser, Yellowstone Region, . The Fan Geyser, Yellowstone Region, Bathing Pools, Yellowstone Region, , The Grotto Geysers, Yellowstone Region, First Glimpses of the Sierras, Giant's Gap, Sierra Nevada Mountains, American River, Sierra Nevada Mountains, Pleasant Valley, . Interior of Snow-Sheds, . . Map of the Pacific States, . Deer Hunting in Oregon, . . Falls on Columbia River, . View on the Columbia River, . Catching Salmon, Columbia River, Mount Hood, Oregon, . . Scene on the Columbia River, . Star Peak, Nevada, . . . Mule Team Going to the Silver-Mines, Indians Horse- Racing on the Plains, . General View of Great Salt Lake City, Brigham Young's Harems, Salt Lake City, Street Scene in Salt Lake City, Witches Rock, . . . Starting for the Mines, . . Wagon Load of Mormons, , Mormon Temple, Salt Lake City, A Mormon Family, Pulpit Rock, Echo Caf.on, Utah, Monument-Rock, Echo Cafion, Utah, Joseph Smith, Founder of the Mormon Church Brigham Young, Head of the Mormon Church Joseph F. Smith, One of the " Twelve Apostles," Mrs. Alice Young Clawson, Brigham Young's Daughter, George A. Smith, " Church Historian," Orson Hyde, President of the Twelve Apostles. Orson Pratt, One of the Twelve Apostles, Brigham Young and a Portion of His Family, Finger Rock, Weber Cafion, Utah, View of Great Salt Lake, . . . Procuring Poison for His Arrows, • Interview with a Grizzly, . . • PAGB. 462 462 474 482 482 483 483 504 512 512 S16 S16 523 526 530 530 534 538 538 541 544 548 549 554 554 555 555 555 558 558 559 559 562 562 562 562 563 563 563 574 582 590 600 604 ^mm 20 ILLUSTRATIONS. Apache Squaw, Scalp-Dance, . Shooting Mountain Sheep, . Indians Gambling, The Great Shoshone Falls, Idaho, . Council with Friendly Indians, Emigrants Fording the Snake River, The Great CaiSon and Falls of the Yellowstone The Devil's Slide, Yellowstone Region, , Gistle Rock, Columbia RivvT, . . Mount Rainier, .... Indian Canoe Race, on Interior Lake, Old Fort Walla- Walla, . Shale Rocks and Tower Palls, Yellowstone, Great Spirit, Fire-Hole Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Indian Encampment, Peget Sound, Elk Hunting, British Columbia, Indians, Interior of Alaska, Native of British Columbia, Map of Alaska and British Columbia, Sitka, or New Archangel, Icebergs off the Coast of Alaska, . Natives Housebuilding, Alaska, Skin Canoe and Indians, Alaska, . Aurora Borealis as seen in Alaska, Moose Hunting in the Yukon, Alaska, 604 605 60s 607 610 610 612 613 616 616 620 621 624 625 625 628 632 638 638 644 648 652 656 656 662 666 6 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER L Discovery of America — ^Earliest colonization — Columbus' voy- ages — Spanish in South and Central America — Cortez in Mexico — Cabrillo and Drake iri California — Behring, Cook, . Vancouver, and other navigators — ^Jesuits — ^Acquisition of California-^Discovery of Gold 33 CHAPTER n. First recorded history — Jesuits — Missions — Cortez' expedi- tion — Exploration of the Gulf of California — Ulloa's expedi- tion — Cortez returns to Spain — Cabrillo's expedition — Sir Francis Drake's expedition : he takes possession of Califor- nia — New Albion — San Diego and Monterey discovered — The Golden Gate not yet discovered — Viscayno's voyage — Father Tierra's expedition : he takes possession of California in the name of the King of Spain — Conversion of the heathen — Father Ugarte's expedition — The Jesuits expelled — Franciscan missions established — Father Serra's expedition — Dominican friars in California — Voyage of the San Carlos and San Antonio — Loss of the San Jos^ 40 CHAPTER III. Don Portala's expedition — First settlement established — ^Father Serra at San Diego — First chapel built — Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco — Founding of missions — San Carlos the first vessel that entered the Golden Gate — Native civili- zation — Spain and the Franciscan fathers — Wealth of the missions — Independence of Mexico — Government of Cali- fornia — Manumission of the Indians — Property of the missions confiscated — Departure of the fathers 49 (21) 22 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER IV. Republican government in Mexico— American flag hoisted at Monterey — France and England seek to possess Califor- nia — De Mofra's explorations — Russians in California — Revolution : a Yankee in it — Monterey captured by Alva- rado and Graham — California declared a free State — Vallejo military chief— Religion established by law — Mexican author- ity again recognized — Graham and others banished — Com- modore Jones declares California a part of the United States in 1842 — Revolution of 1844 — Castro General-in-chief — Banishment of Governor Micheltorena 58 I s ^ CHAPTER V. Early navigators — ^Voyage of Sir Francis Drake — Voyages of Sebastian Viscayno and Vistus Behring — Settlement of Sitka — ^King George's Sound Company — East India Company — Thomas Jeflferscn's interest in the Pacific coast — Expedi- tion of John Ledyard: he is arrested by order of the Empress of Russia — Voyage of Vancouver — The King of Spain forbids Captain Cook to enter California — First Amer- ican vessels on the Pacific coast — Captain Gray discovers the Columbia river — First American vessel enters the Bay of San Francisco — John Brown and Thomas Raben first Americans in California — ^Trade to the Columbia river — Count Rosa- noff in California — Delia Byrd enters San Diego — Russians evacuate California at the request of the United States — Expedition of Lewis and Clark — First settlement in Oregon — John Jacob Astor founds Astoria — Fur trade of Oregon — The British take possession of Oregon — Its restoration to the United States — Astor's fur trade in the Rocky moun- tains—First overland journey to California — Arrest of Jede- diah Smith — Letter from American seamen in 1826 — Letter from Smith to one of the fathers— Death of J. S. Smith — Battle's expedition — Asiatic emigration encouraged — First settlers in California — First mercantile house in California — Commodore Wilkes* expedition to the Pacific— Discovery of a wrecked Japanese junk— Fremont's explorations — Sutter's hospitality— End of Fremont's second exploration 64 CONTENTS. 23 CHAPTER VI. Pico and Castro in command of California — Decline of the missions — Early trade — English, French, and American consuls in California — Indolence of the people — Fremont's third exploration: his trials and triumphs in California — Castro and Fremont — Fremont raises the American flag- Lieutenant Gillespie carries letters to Fremont — Kit Carson saves Fremont — Sonoma captured — W. B. Ide declares a republican government and hoists the "Bear Flag" — Fre- mont elected Governor — Commodore Sloat captures Mon- terey — British projects frustrated — Sloat's proclamation — ■ The American flag hoisted in San Francisco — Commodore Stockton at Monterey — Dupont and General Kearney at Monterey — Arrival of Stevenson's regiment — Uneasiness of the native Californians — Interesting speeches — Proposition to place California under the protection of England or France — General Vallejo favors annexation to the United States 86 CHAPTER VII. Feud between Sloat and Fremont — Commodore Stockton in command : his proclamation — Departure of Sloat — Castro, ■Pico, and Flores oppose the Americans — Stockton warns Castro of his peril — Flores' proclamation to his countrymen — Final surrender of the Mexicans — Treaty of peace con- cluded — Strife between Commodore Stockton and General Kearney — Fremont appointed Military Governor — Stockton takes his departure — Fremont ousted — General Kearney and Commodore Shubrick in command — Colonel Mason super- sedes General Kearney — General Kearney proceeds to Wash- ington — His ill-treatment of Fremont — Fremont arrested and carried to Fortress Monroe — Court-martialled — Discharged from arrest by order of the President — Nominated for the Presidency loi CHAPTER VIII. Colonel Mason and General Riley in command of the govern- ment of California — End of the Mexiccin war — Acquisition of Texas and New Mexico — Treaty between the United States mmfm^ wpni^PWfH 24 Tff£ GOLDEN STATE. and Mexico — ^Boundary established — Convention to frame a State Constitution meets at Monterey— California admitted into the Union — ^Treaty between England and the I nited States defining western boundary — Claims of Portugal to California — Claims of Spain— Pope Alexander VI settles the dispute — Treaty between Spain and Portugal — ^A bull from the Pope — Chain of title to California — Speech of Hon. Thomas H. Benton on the boundary question — Treaty stipu- lations — Rulers under Spanish, Mexican, and United States governments in California — English, French, and American consuls in California xio CHAPTER IX. California under American rule — Population in 1842 and 7845 — ^Arrival of Mormons at San Francisco — Population in 1848 — In 1870 — Composition ofpopulation of San Francisco in 1842 — Establishment of Mission Dolores — First house built in San Francisco — First child born — Hudson Bay Company at San Francisco — First newspaper in California — First school —First Protestant minister — First Protestant church — First steamboat — Discovery of gold — Sutter and Marshall — First mining — Rush to the mines — Official notice of the gold discovery — ^Early gold-seekers— Advent of the Chinese 116 CHAPTER X. Population of California in 1849— Rush to the mines — Gold yield of 1848— Population and scenes of San Francisco in 1849— Ships for California — Overland emigration — Across the Isthmus — Arrival of first steamer — Commerce in 1849 — Occupations of the people— Gray-shirt brigade— Ships at a discount— Up the Sacramento river — Early disappointments —Gambling— Gold product— Gold excitements— Honesty of the " forty-niners "—Lynch law— Prices in the min^s— Cultivation of the soil— Cattle— Eggs— Fruit— All "going home in the spring "—Indians in the mines— Yankee specu- lators—Suffering and disappointments in the mines— Miners going home CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. 25 Growing importance of San Francisco — Crime and dissipation — First Vigilance Committee — Law and order — Building a city — Destroyed by fire — Rebuilt — Wild speculation — Strange occupations — Fortune and misfortune — First house built at Sacramento — Population of — Prosperity in business and speculation — Price of land in San Francisco — Rents in San Francisco — Prices of merchandise — Amusements — Board — Labor — Cost of building — Streets paved with merchandise • — Gold-hunters still arriving — Largest product of gold- Suicide and death — Only a mining country — Import of breadstuffs — Interior steam-navigation — First river-steamer — Fares on the rivers 133 CHAPTER XII. Early agriculture — No vegetables — Gardening in the mines — Advent of farmers — Ignorance of seasons and crops — Increase of agriculture — Lumber — Fishing — Manufacturing — Coal^ Fruits — Vegetables — Permanent settlement in California — Varied industry — Happy homes — Legitimate occupations— Gold-hunters' graves — Overland emigration — Suffering of the " Donner party" — Settlers to the rescue 140 CHAPTER XIIL California — Origin of the name — Griffins in the land — Hot ovens of the natives — ^Area of the State — Agricultural, min-. eral, grazing, and marsh lands — Area equal to one hundred and forty-five States the size of Rhode Island — Compared with states and countries of Europe — Equal to thirty-eight governments of Europe — Capable of supporting a population of eighty-three million — Great productiveness of the soil — Genial climate — Great natural resources — Commercial im- portance — Mountains — Valleys — Rivers — Climate — Seasons — Harvests — Forests — Mineral range — Beauties and wonders of the Sierras 147 26 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER XIV. Mountains— Sierra Nevadas— Winter, spring, and summer in the Sierras— Snows of the mountains— Farming, lumbering, and grazing in the Sierras— Forests— Big trees— Shrubs- Plants— Flowers— Grasses— Poison oak 159 CHAPTER XV. Valleys— Trees, vegetables, fruits, flowers, grain, and grasses — Lakes— Alkaline and borax lakes— Dry lakes— Death valley. 170 CHAPTER XVI. Rivers— Bays— Harbors— Bay of San Francisco — Puget sound — ^Fort Point — Straits- ■?'an Quentin — Islands — Seal Rock — Cliff House — ^Sea-lions — Golden Gate: origin of the name. 181 CHAPTER XVII. Islands off the coast— -Farallones — Islands in bays and rivers- First mint in California — Indian tribes— Shell money — . Springs — Petroleum — Mud springs — Calistoga springs— Sul- phur springs — Soda springs — Tar springs — Asphaltum — Geysers 202 CHAPTER XVIII. Waterfalls — Yosemite falls — Creeks — Rivers — ^Mirror lake — Bridal Vail — Earthquakes 214 CHAPTER XIX. Zoology — Relics of antiquity — ^Animals — Birds — Fishes — ^Bull and bear fights— Reptiles — Bees— Horned toad— Whales. . .. 236 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XX. 27 The precious metals — First mention of gold — Gold in Eden — Gods of the heathen — Aaron's golden calf — Ornaments of Jerusalem — Gold ot the Romans — First gold in America — Gold in South America and Mexico — Gold in Asia and Europe — Gold-mining in th^ United States — Discovery of gold in California — Sir Francis Drake's voyage — Expedition of Commodore Wil'ces to California — Product of gold — ' Mining operations — Quartz and quartz-mining — Rich mines — Quartz mills — Discovery of gold in Australia : yield of the precious metals in — On the Pacific coast — Mineral wealth of Great Britain — Progress of mining in Australia — Chinese in the gold-fields — Precious metal in the world 248 CHAPTER XXI. Tunnel-mining — Sutro tunnel — Canals — Ditches — Asphaltum — Cement — Coal — Copper — Cobalt — Nickle — Diamonds — Electro-silicon — Gypsum — Iron — Lead — Petroleum — Quick- silver — Salt — Sulphur — ^Tin — Marble — Granite — Caves — Mining law^s — Mining laws of Spain and i^'jxico — Geology and mineralogy — Great mines of the worla 271 CHAPTER XXII. Climate — Seasons — Heat and cold — Winter in the Sierras — Trade-winds — ^Animal vitality — Summer in the Sierras and valleys — Rain-fall compared with other parts of the world — Flowers of the valleys — Spring-time — Wheat-fields — ^Agricul- ture — Harvesting — Planting and sowing — ^Volunteer crops — Straw-burning— Storms and hurricanes — Sand-storms 292 CHAPTER XXIII. Agriculture — Manufactures — Commerce — First agriculture in America — Increase of agriculture in California — Decline of mining— Decay of mining towns — ^Area of California — Agri- cultural lands — Spanish grants — Vast estates — How to obtain 28 THE GOLDEN STATE. public lands— School lands— Who may secure the public lands— Grain, fruit, and vegetable growing— Yield of grain per acre— Harvesting— Wild oats— Wild mustard— Hops —Potatoes— Tobacco— Large vegetable growths— Straw- berries— Tropical fruits— Oranges, figs, and nuts— The grape — Fertility of the Sierras — ^Tea culture — Beet sugar— Cotton and rice — Silk culture 309 Sheep and wool — Horses- — Native horsemanship bees CHAPTER XXIV. Cattle raising and branding Rodeos Lassoing grizzly bears — Poultry and 342 CHAPTER XXV. Natural advantages — Regularity of climate — Perpetual summer — Advantages for manufacturing — Interest on money — Manu- factories — Railroads first in California — Great overland rail- road ; building and completion of — Government aid in bonds and lands to railroads — "The last tie" — Rejoicings at the. completion of the great national highway — Ocean, bay, and river navigation— Ship-building — Telegraphs, postage, and post-ofhces — United States branch mint — Circulating me- dium — Mints on the Pacific coast — Navy-yard — Commerce- Exports of gold and merchandise — Agricultural and mechani- cal products — Decline in gold-mining — Shipping of San Francisco — Imports and exports — Effects of the overland railroad 355 CHAPTER XXVI. Edacation— Free schools— Schools in San Francisco — Cost of School Department— Chinese schools — Indian slaves — Na- tional education — Agricultural colleges — State university — Agricultural societies— Reform, deaf, dumb, and blind schools — Newspapers— Books— Libraries — Literature — Pro- tective and benevolent societies — Religion — Prisons and crimes— Asylums — Governors of California— Laws — lawyeys —Doctors — Div ines xZ% CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVII. 29 Chinese empire — Chinese in the United States — Seeking gold in America — In California — Employments, character, and customs of the Chinese — Chinese in San Francisco — Moral depravity — Chinese persecuted — Social and political condi- tion of the Chinese — Buddha, Confucius, and Mencius — Religion of the Orient — Chinese classics — Opium and other stimulants — Small feet of the women — Christianity among the Chinese — Coolyism — Chinese si; .very in .\merica — Spanish barbarity 420 CHAPTER XXVIII. Counties — Coast counties — Area — Productions — Population — ^San Diego — Los Angeles — Santa Barbara — San Luis Obispo • — Monterey — Santa Cruz — San Mateo — San Francisco : com- position of the city, its population, education, buildings, trades, professions, newspapers, nationalities, society — Marin — Sonoma — Mendocino— Humboldt — Klamath — Del Norte. 443 CHAPTER XXIX. Interior and valley counties — Resources, climate, and popula- tion — Siskiyou— Trinity — Shasta — Tehama — Butte — Colusa — ^Yuba — Sutter — ^Yolo — ^Lake — Napa — Solano — Sacramento — Contra Costa — Alameda — San Joaquin — Stanislaus — Santa Clara — Merced — Fresno — Tulare — Kern — Saa Bernardino. . 474 CHAPTER XXX. Mountain counties — Area, resources, climate, and population — Jnyo — Mono — Mariposa — Tuolumne — Calaveras — Amador — Alpine-^El Dorado — Placer — Nevada — Sierra — Plumas — Lassen 504 ■^PPPflW" 30 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XXXI. Pacific coast — Oregon — Nevada — Utah — Arizona — Idaho- Washington Territory— British Columbia and Alaska 523 OREGON. History— Geography — Climate — Seasons — Forests — Minerals — . Mining — Agriculture— Rivers — Mountains — Resources — Pro- gress — Area — Population — Cities — Society 526 CHAPTEi: XXXII. NEVADA. Acquisition of—Area — ^Population — Geography — Mountains- Valleys — Lakes — Rivers — Forests — Soil — Seasons — Climate — Mines — Mining — Minerals — Counties — Cities — Progress — Schools — Newspapers — Libraries — Future prospects. ..... 541 CHAPTER XXXIIL UTAH. Area — Acquisition — Climate — Seasons — Mines — Mining — • Minerals — Mountains — Lakes — Rivers — Agriculture — Edu- cation — Material development — Mormons — Society — Popu- lation — Great Salt lake and Salt Lake City — Overland rail- road — Discovery and history of Salt lake 549 CHAPTER XXXIV. MORMONISM AND THE MOkI.-ONS. Population and religions of the world — Christianity — Moham- medanism — Buddhism — Judaism — Mormonism: its rise, progress, history, and practices— Joseph the prophet and his followers— The golden plates from the hill Cumorah— Chiia. in America— Mormon and Moroni — ^John the Baptist ordains ' Joseph Smith— Smith's birth, early history, life, adventures, and death— Polygamy—Brigham Young : his birth, histbry, and career — Desertion of Nauvoo — Mormons march west- ward—Settle at Salt lake— Their city, religion, society, and practices — Despotism in Utah— Mormon godhead 563 W" 523 CONTENTS. 31 CHAPTER XXXV. ARIZONA TERRITORY. Area and population — Climate — Soil — Mountains — Rivers- Forests— Mines — Mining— Minerals— Settlement— Civiliza- tion — Railroads — Indians 600 526 CHAPTER XXXVI. IDAHO TERRITORY. Area — Geography — Mountains — Rivers — Forests — ^Lake^ — Scenery— Waterfalls— Valleys— Agriculture — Climate — In- dians — Gold and silver mines — Material progress — Railroads —Cities and towns — Population 607 541 CHAPTER XXXVII. WASHINGTON TERRITORY. History, area, and population — Boundary — Geography — Moun- tains — Lakes — Rivers — Bays— Harbors — Seasons — Climate — Agriculture — Grazing — Forests — Lumber — Commerce — Fish — Game — Natives — Gold, silver, coal, and other mines — ^Progress — Rauroads 613 549 CHAPTER XXXVIII. BRITIS'I COLUMBIA. Ge<3graphy— History — Hudson Bay Company — Area — Islands — Mountains — Rivers— Lakes — Forests — Climate — Agricul- ture — Valleys— Seasons — Rain — Bays — Harbors — Inlets- Natural resources — Gold and other minerals — Cities — Customs —Population — Natives — Commerce — Canadian railway 632 563 CHAPTER XXXIX. ALASKA. History— Geography— Area — Mountains— Forests— Rivers — Seas — Bays — Harbors — Islands — Climate — Seasons — Mines — Natives — Fish — Animals — Fur-seals — Commerce — Popu- lation — Towns — Progress — Religion — Future prospects 644 ^S^^^^^H Km mpRffP "H"PHFr^"P' 32 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER XL. APPENDIX. , Population of the United States : native, foreign, colored, and Chinese—Population of the Pacific coast : native, foreign, and Chinese— Population by counties of California, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Idaho, Washington Territory: also, aggregate of Alaska and British Columbia — Chinese in the United States and on the Pacific coast — Distances from San Francisco to various points inland and to various ports and countries and cities of the United States — Population of cities. ...........«•#•• ^5^ ■■V %. i i F h / \^ f( ir THE GOLDEN STATE CHAPTER I. Discovery of America — Earliest Colonization — Columbus' Voyages — Spanish in South and Central America — Cortez in Mexico — Cabrillo and Drake in California — Behring, Cook, Vancouver, and other navigators — Jesuits — Acquisition of California — Dis- covery of Gold. The growth of civilization and colonization In what IS termed the New World presents many striking feat- ures of interest; and the tedious march of progress in the early history of the country contrasts forcibly with the rapid strides of popular Institutions, education, and the advancement of the present period. Modern colonization in America, as It marches west- ward, subduing prairie and forest, spanning rivers and piercing mountains, establishing governments, found- ing states and cherishing civilization. Is in hopeful con- trast with the decay of many of the countries and governments of Europe, where a stagnation of Ideas, stereotyped monotony, and general apathy of the peo- ple mark the decline of many of these countries, whose haughty rulers reigned In splendor centuries before America was known. Colonization and civilization in America advanced with singular irregularity ; often contending with most formidable natural obstacles, while vast regions, most inviting and possessing great natural attractions, were 3 {33) 34 THE GOLDEN STATE. liJ. I M M ''I entirely neglected or unknown. Thus, while the seeds of our social and national existence were being sown in the east, the vast territory of California, with its rich soil, genial climate, and balmy atmosphere, lay wrapped in primitive solitude. The first setdement and attempt at civilization on the western continent was made in Mexico, by the races of men whose origin is still a mystery. The Taltecs, who, in the year A. D. 700, first settled in this country, maintained a semi-civilization in Mexico for four centu- ries; from which period, for four additional centuries, (until 1 52 1,) the Aztecs, and other tribes from the north, maintained a form of government, founded the city of Mexico, and erected the splendid temples and palaces from which the ambitious Spaniard, Cortez, in 1 521, drove Montezuma and put an end to Aztec rule in Mexico. Iceland, whose eternal glaciers stand sheer and cold, was the next part of America discovered, (if this dependency of Denmark can be called a part of America.) This event dates from the year 860, when the Norwegian pirate, Naddodr, was wrecked upon its shores. In 874 a colony of Naddodr's countrymen^ seeking refuge from die tyranny of Harfager, founded a colony and established a republican government in these inhospitable regions ; and with the introduction of Chrisdanity in the year 1000, and the art of wridng in 1057, the foundation of modern civilizadon was laid in the western world. ^ Greenland, discovered and setded about the same time as Iceland, had entered upon a career of civiliza- tion, and little doubt exists but that the Northmen, in making their voyages from Norway to Iceland and ' (:' DISCOVERY OF THE PACIFIC. 35 ing akl Greenland, had frequently touched along the coast of New England ; but these early northern colonies, after existing for four centuries, passed away, and, from 1404 until 1576, had almost gone from the memory of man and had to be rediscovered in 1721. America still slumbered until 1492, when Columbus brought the new world into the family of nations. The . newly discovered continent awaited a name, which the voyage of the ambitious Amerigo Vespucci, in 1499, furnished, he giving it his own Christian name. Cabot, at Newfoundland, in 1497, and Columbus' voyages, were drawing attention to the Atlantic side of the continent. Alvarez de Gabral had made known his discovery of Brazil in 1501, but the waters of the great ocean west of x^merica had not yet been seen by European eye ; this was reserved for the Spanish adventurer, Balboa, who, in 15 13, after making a jour- ney into the interior of Darien, (Colombia,) was led to a high mountain by the natives, from a peak of which he first beheld the waters of the Pacific ocean. Clad in an armor of mail, with die royal flag of Spain, upon which was emblazoned Mary and the mfant Jesus in her arms, and the crown of his sovereign, he waded deep into the water and exclaimed to his soldiers and followers, " Spectators of both hemispheres, I call you to ivitness that I take possession of this part of the universe for the croivn of Castile. My siuord shall defend what my arm hath given to ity Simultaneously with the entry of Cortez into Mexico in 1 519, the Portuguese navigator, Magellan, then in the employ of the Spanish government, effected an entrance into the Pacific ocean through the straits now bearing his name. To this gallant navigator (slain at lil: t 26 TJ/£ GOLDEN STATE. the Philippines, in 1520) are we indebted for the appropriate name of this vast ocean — Pacific. Other navigators and explorers came. Cortez, hav- ing conquered Mexico, pushed westward to the Gulf of California in 1 534, and, from that period up to 1540, the date of his final departure to Spain, had made several expeditions in the vicinity of Lower California. In 1535, Pizarro was assorting Spanish domination in Peru. The year 1542 found Cabrillo exploring the coast of California as far north as Cape Mendocino. Francis Drake, in 1579, was buffeting the north winds of the Pacific, and erecting the flag of monarchical England upon the shorea of California ; and 1 602 found the Spanish navigator, Viscayno, exploring the lower coast of California and seeking shelter in the harbors of San Diego and Monterey. The first colonization of what is now the Republic of America was effected in Virginia, in 1607; and 1620 witnessed the Pilgrims landing on the shores of New England. Lemaire and Schouten, the Dutch navigators, in 1 61 5, had discovered Cape Horn. The Danish navi- gator, Behring, in the service of Russia, had, in 1727, discovered the passage between the continents of Europe and America, giving it his own name, and traversed the lonely shores of Alaska. The year 1764 found the English explorers, Willis and Carteret, navi- gating the North Pacific and establishing English do- minion on the Pacific side of British Columbia. The famous Captain Cook had made his first voyage to the Pacific in 1768. The cross of the Jesuit fathers was first carried into California and planted at San Diego in 1769. The English navigator, Vancouver, in 1770, was exploring the Straits of Fuca and the island now JESUITS OCCUPY CALIFORNIA. Zl called after its discoverer. Kenguelen, the French navigator, in 1772, was sailing in the waters of the North Pacific. During all these eventful years, while, from Iceland to Patagonia and distant Alaska, America was being explored and settled, up to July, 1769, when Governor Portala first beheld the Bay of San Francisco, the vast region of California, its genial climate, rich soil, tower- ing mountains, and mineral wealth, were all unknown to civilized man. No furrow had been turned in all her broad, rich valleys ; no hand had touched her golden treasures; no keel had ruffled her placid waters; and, although her mighty Golden Gate had stood ajar since creation's dawn, the mystic seal that secluded her charms was still unbroken save by the wild birds, whose fleet course carried them uninterrupted through that portal destined to become one of the world's greatest commercial marts. Man — civilized, educated man — had not yet asserted his dominion over this vast field ; and, within all this broad land, a solitude, quiet, calm, and placid, through all the long months and years, reigned supreme, broken only by the whoop of the savage as he danced to his lengthening shadow beneath the tall pine tree. From 1769 to 1846, Jesuits, Franciscan friars, Span- ish and Mexican adventurers, amidst local revolutions and tu»*bulent factions, had ruled and occupied Cali- fornia without effecting a permanent civilization or in- dustry. Lingering 'shadows of Spanish superstition, crumbling walls of ancient missions, neglected graves, fragments of church bells that once, from the branches of sturdy oaks, called the red man to the foot of the cross, silently proclaimed the departure of a once semi-re- ^8 THE GOLDEN STATE. llgious condition. Roving brigands, subsisting upon the semi-barbarous inhabitants, and revolutionary outbursts from whose leaders issued stdiVtYmg pronMiciamentos, ex- hibited the lack of executive authority in the country, and the rapid decline of the last vestige of religious, social, and national power in the land. To redeem this degenerate people, found a new civilization, nationality, and freedom, required the quickening impulses of a social and national existence founded upon broader and mcie progressive principles tlian any yet known in the land. At this critical period, when jealous monarchs of Europe were turning their eyes toward the chaos of California and contemplating a new field for American imperialism, the flag of the American Republic was hoisted over the Mexican territorial capitol at Monte- rey, and California entered upon a new era of advance- ment. But it required the opening of the treasure vaults of the Sierras and the loosening of the golden sands of the Yuba to set in motion the long lines of pilgrims across vast deserts and over the precipitous mountains, and to spread the sails of vast fleets seeking a channel through the Golden Gate. It required the cry of Gold ! to break the links of the family circle and leave in a wreck behind the household gods, as man sought in the unfrequented ravines and gulches of the Sierras the treasures of the new El Dorado. The voice came, stern and potent, reaching the dwellings of civilized men in every corner of the globe ; it echoed in the ears of the shrewd Yankee, muscular Celt, vivacious Gaul, bearded Turk, stalwart Polander, grim Russian, and polite Castilian. It \yas heard by the turbaned Moslem in his harem, the wandering Arab on his pilgrimage to DISCOVERY OF GOLD, 39 Mecca, the dreamy sons of the Flowery Kingdom as they wandered b)' the waters of the Yang-tse-kiang, or bent before Tien-tan to do homage to their prophet. The syren song of the enchantress was caught up by every kindred of men, who joined in the cosmopolitan throng to seek, by unknown channels, the shores of a land whose sands of gold and hidden mountain treas- ures, for the first time in the history of nations, had broken the seal of Oriental exclusiveness and brought into companionship, in voyages by sea and journeys by land, in intercourse of business and trade, the strange families of men whose complexions, costumes, and tongues startled and confounded each other. 40 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER II. I III First recorded history — Jesuits — Missions — Cortez' expedition- Exploration of the Gulf of California — Ulloa's expedition — Cortez returns to Spain — Cabrillo's expedition — Sir Francis Drake's expedition; he takes possession of California — New Albion — San Diego and Monterey discovered — The Golden Gate not yet discovered — Viscayno's voyage — Father Tierra's expedi- tion : he takes possession of California in the name of the King of Spain — Conversion of the heathen — Father Ugarte's expedi- tion — The Jesuits expelled — Franciscan missions established — Father Serra's expedition — Dominican friars in California — Voy- age of the San Carlos and San Antonio — Loss of the San Jos6. The first authentic account of California that we possess is derived from the records and writings of the early Spanish navigators. These, after having ex- plored and setded the greater part of South and Cen- tral America, turned their attention to the exploration of the coast of Lower and Upper California; until, however, the acquisition of the country by the Ameri- can government, in 1846, no permanent setriement had been made nor development of the country effected, with the excepdoi? of a few scattered missions estab- lished by .the Jesuit priests for the conversion of the native population. ^ For more than three-quarters of a century previous to this period, frequent voyages had been made and expeditions fitted out by zealous Spanish adventurers, for the purpose of discovering the fabled treasures of California, which seemed not to be confined to silver and gold, but also to diamonds and other precious stones. Each expedition, however, failed either to dis- cover the golden treasures of her mountains, or bring to light the splendid harbor of San Francisco. 1 SPANISH SHIP OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY, OFF THE COAST OK CALIFORNIA. EXPLORATIONS OF CORTEZ. 41 Cortez, who, in 1521, completed the conquest of Mexico, mrned his attention to the exploration of the coast of California. This he did under most unfavorable circumstances : he was compelled to build his vessels of raw material taken from the forest, and, without chart or guide, to explore a coast whose waters had hitherto been undisturbed by the navigator's keel. His explorations were confined chiefly to the west coast of Mexico and the Gulf of California. After many ship- wrecks and mutinies of the crews, which rendered his explorations abortive, the pilot, Ximines, who had him- self been a mutineer, landed. In 1534, on the east side of the peninsula of Lower California ; after having sur- veyed the coast, he returned with encouraging accounts of the land he had discovered. Later in the same year, Cortez in person, with four vessels, left Tehuantepec to explore further northward. He reached Lower California and explored a portion of it, his object being to found a Spanish colony ; but so great were the sufferings of his party, and so hostile the Indians, that he soon returned to Mexico, leaving his object unaccomplished. , Sdll hopeful, however, of making rich discoveries toward tlie north, Cortez, in 1537, fitted out another expedition of three vessels under the command of Francisco de Ulloa. This officer, after exploring the Gulf of California, steered westward round the Cape of Lower California, and proceeded north to tlie twenty- ninth degree of latitude. At the end of a year's cruise he returned to Mexico with reports of a wretched,. bar- ren, and inhospitable region, much to the chagrin of Cortez, whose dreams of spice islands and of great mineral wealth now began to fade away. Three years 42 THE GOLDEN STATE. \\\m later Cortez returned to Spain, having bade adieu to the American continent forever. In the year 1542, Juan Rodriguiz Cabrillo, by birth a Portuguese, but at this period in the service of Spain, by directions of Mendoza, Viceroy of Mexico, sailed from the western coast of Mexico, on June 27, on a voyage of discovery and exploration. He kept his course westward along the coast of California tc ' ."pc Mendoza, (called after the viceroy; now Cj:; Men- docino,) and returned in the following April to Nati- vidad, the place of departure, without having gained much knowledge of the country. Francis Drake (afterwards Sir Francis Drake) sailed from England, in his good ship the Golden Hind, to make explorations in the Pacific, and, by right of dis- covery, add to the possessions of his countrymen. He was not aware that, thirty years before, Cabrillo had discovered and explored the coast of California. After preying upon the Spanish galleons in his track, from Magellan's straits to Panama, and robbing them A their treasure and precious cargoes, he headed nortr, along the California coast. After having proceeded as far north as the southern line of Oregon, being buffeted by northern gales, he was driven south, June, 1579, and sought refuge in an inlet near Point Reyes, a short distance north of the Golden Gate ; here he remained thirty-six days. During this time he took posse: -on of the country in the name of the Queen of Eni_^in ! 1 (Elizabeth,) calling it New Albion, and erected a mor-:- ment commemorative of his act;: upon this was "a plate nailed upon a fair gr;:aL po.it whereupon was engraven her majesty's nanie, the day and year of our arrival there, with the free giving up of the province sin FJiANCIS DRAKE IN CALIFORNIA. 43 and people into her majesty's hands, together with her highness' picture and arms in a piece of five pence of current English money, under the plate, where under was also written the name of our general." Drake was not aware that the Spaniard had taken possession of the country in the narie of his sovereign, and planted the cross upon its shores. The harbor that Drake entered was for many years supposed to be the Bay of San Francisco, but the strongest evidence seems to incline against this. The harbor in which he lay is in Marin county, a few miles north of the Golden Gate, and is still called Drake's bay; and in some of the old English histories of his discoveries the region of Californ'a is called " Drake's land back of Canada," and " New Albion." After having lain in harbor thirty-six days, Drake set sail for England. He went by way of the Philippine islands and the Cape of Good Hope, thus making a complete circuit of the globe. He was the first navigator that ever accomplished such a feat, returning home in the same vessel in which he commenced, the voyage. Philip the III, King of Spain, anxious to retain the possession to which he was entitlcid by discovery, for- warded from Madrid to th*^ Vicf^roy of Mexico in 1596 orders Jo explore and take possession of California in his name. In accordance with this command. General Sebastian Viscayno, in 1 602, sailed from Acapulco with three vessels. He pushed his way against the prevailing north winds along the west coast of Lower California, surveying the ocean and coast as opportunity presented itself. On November 10, he reached as far north as the harbor of San Diego ; here he lay at anchor ten days. Pi oceeding still north ]\c reached, on the 1 6th of Decern- 44 THE GOLDEN STATE. |i; 'Li 1?^ I'i I! ber, 1602, the Bay of Monterey; this name he gave it in honor of the Count de Monterey, Viceroy of Mexico. Viscayno next entered some small inlet in the coast a little north of San Francisco, and one of his vessels is F' apposed to have proceeded as far north as the Columbia But the splendid Bay of San F-ancisco was not ri ente. by him, but to him, as to all the other Spanish navigators and Sir Francis Drake, the seal of the Golden Gate was still unbroken. After this voyage of Viscayno, he went to Spain in hope of aid for the furdier prosecution of his explorations in California ; however, although his report of the coun- try was most flattering, he did not receive the necessaiy encouragement, and his records, maps, and charts being lost or destroyed, all about the expedition was forgotten ; and, for more than a century and a half after his depart- ure, San Diego and Monterey were unvisited. The whole country seemed to have passed from the recollec- tion of civilized man ; the red man alone was supreme in his animal life, hunting the deer and making his acorn and grasshopper pie, his shell money and flint-pointed arrow, encumbered by neither art nor fashion, other than a few feathers stuck in his hair and a few streaks of rude paint upon his cheeks and body, and in company with his squaw, who, minus chignon, high-heeled boots, and hoop-skirt, wandered in dreamy apathy over the rugged mountains, amidst the dense forests, through the beautiful valleys, and along the murmuring streams. On the 25th of October, 1697, we find Salva Tierra, with a company of six soldiers and three Indians, pitch- ing his tent at the Bay of San Dionysio, a litde south of San Bruno, Lower California. Tierra was sent by the Society of Jesuits on a mission for the spiritual con- MISSIONS ESTABLISHED. 45 quest of California; into this project the Viceroy of Mexico and the King of Spain entered with much interest, the latter being anxious to have the permanent possession of a country of whose riches much had been said by visitors. In the powers granted to Tierra was added a com- mission from the King of Spain, which empowered the*, colonists to enlist soldiers at their own expense, and to appoint officers of justice in the new land ; this, how- ever, to be without putting the government of Spain to any expense, or drawing upon it for funds, without the express orders of the King: further, he was to take possession of the country and hold it in the name of his majesty. At Loreto, on the Bay of San Dionysio, Tierra planted his garrison and erected a little chapel ; before its door he placed a crucifix, and in the name of the King of Spain took formal possession of the country on the 25th of October, 1697. The Rev. Father Tierra, having established his mis- sion, began his work of the conversion of the heathen ; he collected them at his little chapel, where, after having endeavored to instruct them in the catechism and prayer, he fed the inner man with small portions of boiled maizb. This was so much appreciated that when, on account of its scarcity, the pious fathers began to lessen the supply, the new converts gathered their tribes from far and near and conspired for the murder of the whole mis- sionary band, ten only in number. These, however, successfully withstood the attack of over five hundred savages, and drove them in confusion from the mission. The continued kindness of the fathers, and the fact that a state of war would deprive them of their new luxury, soon drew the Indians around the cross ; and % 46 THE GOLDEN STATE. It' I'^l the missionary work continued not only to maintain its footing but to make its way slowly through the peninsula. In the year 1 700, by the arrival of Father Ugarte from Mexico, a new impetus was added to the labors of the missionaries. He setded at St. Xavier, Lower .California, with the prayers of Mary of Savoy .md King Philip of Spain, that he m.ight be prospered in diffusing Catholicism, accompanying him ; but most likely better sdll than these, the supplies from Mexico, furnished by the indefatigable Father Kino, which, with the increase of cattle and sheep at the missions, brought some apparent success to the cause of the cross, to which concurring causes we may also add the habits of indus*-ry inculcated by Father Tierra on the native populadon. All along, from the first discovery of the coast, Cali- fornia was supposed to be an island, and on the maps and charts was called Islas Carylinas ; and not until Father Kino's expedidon to the waters of the Colorado and across the Gulf of California, in 1 702, was it deter- mined that California was not an island, but a part of the mainland of the American condnent, and that the Gulf of California ended at the mouth of the waters of the Colorado, leaving the land lying west of it a penin- sula. But it required the expedition of Father Ugarte, in 1722, to fully settle the question, that the waters of the Colorado and the Gulf of California had no oudet except between the mainland of Mexico and Lower California. This expedition, made by the reverend father on board of his rude craft. The Trmmph of the Cross, built on the shores of the Gulf of California for this express purpose, was the fullest and nost thorouo-h EXPULSION OF THE JESUITS. 47 survey of the whole gulf and coast made up to that period. Up to 1 745, repeated massacres by the Indians, of the fathers of the missions, had, at times, almost depopu- lated the coast. At this time there were only sixteen small missions, all confined to the barren region of the peninsula of Lower California; still their beacon lights and fresh supplies of provisions to the famished and scurvied crews of the yearly galleon which, on her voyage from the Philippine islands to Panama, visited them, was no small part of their usefulness. All the labors of piety, and efforts to utilize the native population by teaching habits of Industry, were carried on by the untiring energy and zeal of the Jesuit fathers, at a large outlay of labor and money, together with sacrifice of comfort : the money was received by dona- tions from the friends of the missions in Spain and Mexico. But all the labors and sacrifices of the early fathers were doomed to destruction. King Charles of Spain, jealous of the political influence of the Jesuit order throughout his dominions. In 1 767, issued a decree expelling the whole order from his possessions. This was speedily executed both in Mexico and California: the missions, funds, and all were assigned to the Fran- ciscan monks of Mexico, and the Jesuits themselves placed under their control, with Father Junipero Serra as president. Serra, on the ist day of Apxil, 1768, entered Loreto, the capital of the missions on the penin- sula, and took formal possession. Under the leadership of the energetic Father Serra, new life was Infused into the missionary establishments on the peninsula. But soon another religious Romish order — that of the Dominican friars — was granted power 48 THt GOLDEN STATE. by the King of Spain to enter the missionary field at the missions already established ; sooner, however, than make a division of the labor with a rival organization, the Franciscans abandoned the entire field of the penin- sula of Lower California, and started westward to found new missions and introduce civilization into Upper California. The expedition, under the new order of things, made ample preparations for a permanent settlement. Com- panies of soldiers, with muleteers, herds, and flocks, were to proceed overland from Lower California, whilst two vessels, equipped and provisioned, were to proceed by sea as far north at least as San Diego. About this time a new order was received in Mexico ^ by the Vicar-general, from the King of Spain, to make a setdement at San Diego, and possess and hold the country. On this new enterprise, headed by Father Junipero Serra, the San Carlos, the first of the two ves- sels, commanded by Don Vicente Vilal, with sixty-two persons on board, sailed from Cape St. Lucas, Lower California, on the 9th of January, 1 769, for San Diego. She was followed, on the 15 th of the same month, by the San Antonio, commanded by Don Juan Perez ; and, on the 1 6th of June, the San Jose sailed from Loreto. After nearly a four months voyage, the San Carlos, on the 1st day of May, arrived at San Diego ; on the nth day of April following, the San Antottio arrived at the same port, after a most perilous voyage and the loss of several of the crew by scurvy ; but the ill-fated San Josi, after leaving Loreto, was never heard of. THE GOLDEN GATE AND 13AY OK SAN FRANCISCO, 1 769. (City of San Francisco built where the Deer are,) MONTGOMERY STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, 1849. i 111 < '.***'" DON FORTALA'S EXPEDITION, 49 CHAPTER III. Don Portala's expedition — First settlement established — Father Serra at San Diego — First chapel built — Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco — Founding of missions — San Carlos the first vessel tliat entered the Golden Gate — Native civilization — Spain and the Franciscan fathers — Wealth of the missions — Independence of Mexico — Government of California — Manumission of the Indians — Property of the missions confiscated — Departure of the fathers. Don Caspar Portala, Governor of Lower California in 1 769, took command of one division of the overland expedition. This was intended to proceed from Lower California, advance northward as far as practicable, plant the cross, and establish the dominion of his majesty, the King of Spain. A second division was headed by Don Fernando Riveray Moncada. Father Crespi was in this division, which was composed of soldiers, mule- teers, and Indians. These had with them two hundred head of cattle, and a number of horses and mules. On the 24th of March, 1769, they started from Villacata, Lower California; and, on the 14th day of May following, arrived at San Diego, where they, or ihe ist day of July, 1769, established the first white settlement and mission in what is now the State of California. In May, 1769, Governor Portala, with Father Juni- pero Serra and the second division of the overland expedition, left Lower California, and, after a journey of forty-six days, at the head of his expedition, arrived at San Diego on the ist day of July, 1769 Great rejoicings and demonstrations ensued ; the vessels dis- charged their guns, the soldiers their muskets, to cele- brate the final meeting of the four divisions of this first 50 THE GOLDEN STATE. expedition to permanently plant white settlements and establish civilization in Upper California. In a few days a mission was founded, a cross planted, a chapel built, a priest selected to preside, a patron saint named, the ground blessed and sprinkled with holy water, and every thing was made ready for the conversion of the heathen. On the 14th day of July, 1769, Governor Portala started with a new expedition from San Diego to dis- cover the Bay of Monterey and establish a mission. Priests, soldiers, muleteers, and Indians — in all sixty- five — with provisions and pack-trains, set out heir northward journey. At Monterey they haltea and planted a cross, but, not satisfied that it was the place of which they were in search, they proceeded still northward; and, on the 25th of October, 1769, came in sight of the sand-hills of the peninsula of San Fran- cisco, with its beautiful bay stretching north and south a hundred miles, landlocked upon all sides save at the narrow entrance of the Golden Gate on the west. This is one of the finest harbors in the world, being sur- passed only by that most beautiful sheet of water and harbor In Washington Territory, Puget sound. To Governor Gaspar De Portala, then, must be awarded the honor of the discovery of the Bay of San Francisco and not to Sir Francis Drake: he, as we know from the best authorit)', never saw it; neither can it be assigned to Father Junipero Serra, who, with other missionaries, remained at San Diego during Port- ala's journey to San Francisco. Six years elapsed, after Porta'a's discovery, before Serra first beheld the Bay of San Francisco. This fact Is well established by the writings of Father Palou, who kept the records of the BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO DISCOVERED. 51 missions at this period. Nor can the honor of its dis- covery be awarded to Friar Juan Crispi, who accompa- nied Portala. Portala named the harbor, after the founder of his monastic order, (Saint Francis,) San Francisco. In about six months after Portala's discovery of the Bay of San Francisco, he and his party returned to San Diego. A mission was not founded at San Francisco for more than six years after. Father Portala having returned to Mexico, Father Junipero Serra was com- missioned president of all iiie missions in Upper Cal- ifornia. Under his directions, the missions at San Francisco were founded by Friars Francisco Palou and Bonlto Cambou on the 9th day of October, 1776. Father Junipero Serra did not, as some have written, found the missions at San Francisco. Once only dur- ing his stay in California did he visit San Francisco ; the period of his stay was short, extending from the 1st to the loth of October, 1777. Two years previous to this, in so far as is positively known, no keel of a vessel had ever ruffled the waters of the Golden Gate. This honor was reserved for the San Carlos. This ship, in June, 1775, entered the spacious harbor and explored the bay in all directions. She had been despatched from the lower country for the purpose of exploring the Bay of San Francisco, which had been discovered by land, and also for the purpose of seeing if it could be entered by the mouth or chan- nel which Portala declared he had discovered on his visit in 1 769. The party which had founded the missions at San Francisco left Monterey (where a mission had been founded on the 3d of June, 1770) for that purpose 5^ THE GOLDEN STATE. ii on the 17th of June, 1776; and, travelling overland, reached the Bay of San Francisco on the 27th of the same month, and founded the missions as a' ready stated. With increasing supplies of provisions, ^eeds, cattle, horses, and sheep, the missionary fathers entered upon the holy work of the red man's conversion. This was the sixth mission, up to this period, founded in Cali- fornia. From this time until the year 1800 — ^a period of twenty-four years — the fathers labored with great zeal and industry, and were able to report eighteen missions established and 647 savages converted to the cause of Christianity : how far, is not stated. With a stock on hand of 7,080 neat catde, 6,238 sheep, 1,000 horses, and more than 5,000 bushels of grain raised per annum, matters seemed prosperous. In the year 1802, the eighteen missions had an aggre- gate population of 15,562 — 7,945 m^les and 7,617 fe- males. This of course included (besides the priests, soldiers, and Spanish) the Indians attendant at the churches, and supposed to be civilized. These mis- sions were at the following places, and founded at the subjoined dates, and in the order following: San Diego, July 16, 1769; San Carlos de Monterey, June 3, 1770; San Antonia de Padua, July 14, 1771 ; San Gabriel, September 8, 1771 ; San Louis Obispo, September i, 1772 ; San Francisco, October 9, 1776 ; San Juan Capis- trano, November i, 1776; Santa Clara, January 18, 1.777 ; San Buenaventura, March 31, 1782 ; Santa Bar- bara, December 4, 1786; La Purisima Concepcion, December 8, 1787; Santa Cruz, August 28, 1791; Soledad, October 9, 1791; San Jos6, June 11, 1797; San Juan Eautista, June 24, 7797; San Miguel, July _*L^. ^*^:s!=^ ■Ji'v MISSIOIM OF SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA, FOUNDED IN 1 786. FATHER GARZES AND THE INDIANS IN CALIFORNIA, IM 1775. FOUNDING OF JESUIT MISSIONS. 53 25. 1797 ; San Fernando Rey, September 8, 1797 ; San Louis Rey de Francia, June 1 3, 1 798 ; San Inez, Sep- tember 17, 1804; San Rafael, December 14, 181 9; and San Francisco de Solano, August 25, 1823: making in all twenty-one, up to the year 1823. For the protection of the missions, military posts or presidic>s were established : one at each of the following places : San Diego, Monterey, Santa Barbara, and San Francisco. These enclosures were surrounded by adobe walls, nearly twelve feet in height, with chapel, officers' quarters, barracks, store-houses, &c. Little encouragement was given to colonization, and the priests watched officers and soldiers, none of whom were allowed to marry without a license from the King of Spain, which the fathers took good care was not too often granted. With the fathers the Indians seemed to be the great centre oi irtion : they were a race who submitted unreserveaiy to their spiritual rmd temporal domination. They were good blacK smiths, farmers, tanners, weavers, soap-makers, hercuTs of flocks, and tillers of the soil; and, under the leader hip of their masters, had raised the missions to positions of importance, and the fathers themselves to opulence and power. Whilst the fathers discouraged by all m'^-^.ns the immigration of white settlers into California, and pro- hibited those under their control from marrying, they most anxiously desired to cultivate amicable and even conjugal relations between the Spaniards and Indians. As evidence of this we find that the first grant of land made in California was to Manuel Burton, a Spanish soldier, on November 27, 1775, for leading to the altar as his wife a native convert woman. jgl. COLDEN STATE. ** • ,„d teachings of the fathers But all the P--ecaut.ons aBd t^cl^ ^S^.^^^^.^^ ^^^^ ivere unavailing to raise in ^ ^j^te of ambition, the docile, half-idiouc w-^' wj"' f , ,,pp,y of food to hoped or thought of n°^'»f ^^°, ^ J, as the influ- fiU his ever-cravmg ='"' ^^^ ^^.^er were withdrawn, ence, care, and pro ection of »'= m ^j,^ ^^.n. he rdapsed into his -^"^^^^ scour the shores field and tlje loom, ^"^^^^" himself, or to roam l;f^^d^;:!-o7ru;L?ornsand grasshopper -conflicts and f-^^:^:^^ ^liury commanders othe^pres^^ ,oy of Mexico to define ^;r p ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^ fates, however, seemed to haxe a __^j ^j^^ the missions, which --P'f jf^/Xe^ f™" *^'^ world, and whose rulers havmg re P ^^^^j. e:u:s:u;:3o;:nV:path^-artM^ the vast region of the A™^"'^^'"^ ^; became jeal- lan's straits to the Coj-^^^;^ J'^^^e missions, and ous of the power and influence ot determined on their ="PP^^=^'°"-. ^ ^^^r California, r tl,P Und With the increase of tlocks cnu docile in temper, niechamcal ^'^ ^^^^''l „ther in .eal; and in thoir case, - ^ *^^;^r;,a wine, mortals eood dinners, well washed down witn Tended to abate the fervor of their devotion, and led END OF SPANISH RULE IN CALIFORNIA. 55 the'V thoughts and actions toward the precious metals and gross things of earth. Accordingly we find that they, in 1835, shortly before their abandonment of the country, raised large crops of wheat, maize, barley, beans, grapes, and other products, amounting to more than one hundred thousand dollars per annum ; this, too, at the very low prices of those times. We find them also in the possession of 216,727 horned cattle, 32,201 horses, 2,844 niules, 177 asses, 153,455 sheep, 1,873 goats, and 839 swine, indeed, one of the fathers, Louis Martinez, is said to have taken to Spain with him when he left the country more than one hundred thousand dollars in treasure. Even all this wealth is supposed to be less than half of what the fathers possessed about the year 1822, before the Mexican authorities attempted to con- fiscate their property. The fostering care of the Span- ish government and the Viceroy of Mexico, together with the contributions of the friends of religion, had lent character and power to the missions of California, and had swelled " the pious fund of Calif or^iia " to respectable proportions. But all this power, splendor, and missionary labor were dashed to the groun^^ by the fall of Spanish rule in Mexico ; for, on the achievement of the independence of Mexico, in 1822, radical changes were wrought, both in the civil and ecclesiastical affairs of the country. The new empire not only laid claim to that vast territory' then known as Mexico, but also to that limitless and undefined country so long claimed and partly settled by Spanish adventure — California. When Mexico be- came a republic, in 1824, this whole country was erected into a Mexican Territor)', with a representative in 56 THE GOLDEN STATE. Congress, and military commandant at Monterey, the capital. The powers of the Franciscan fathers in Cali- fornia were soon curtailed by the Mexican Congress. In 1826, that body proclaimed the manumission of all the civilized Indians in California, with a division of the country into parishes, and allotments of land for the Indians. This measure, together with a failure on the part of Mexico to pay the allowances of the fathers, and the decline of the '' pimis fund of Calif orrda',' caused missionary labors to decline. The Indians relapsed into their former barbarism, squandered their means, and became nude savages. The political party in power in the early part of 1833 passed laws confiscat- ing the lands and property of the missions. These were subsequently revoked by Santa Anna, who came into power in the same year. By the sad and fluctu- ating changes of administration in Mexico down to the year 1845, ^'^ missions and fathers were embarrassed and harassed by acts of confiscation and abridgment of powers. In 1 845 came the final blow : many of the missions were sold at auction ; others were rented, the rents to be divided into three funds — one-third to go to the missionaries, a third to a pious fund of California for charitable and educational purposes, and a third to the support of the civilized Indians. The fathers re- turned either to Mexico or Spain ; and, in a brief period from this, the once powerful missions of California, their pious priests and praying Indians, were known only as things of the past ; and to-day no trace of their 'brmer presence is to be seen in the whole land, except ai: occasional dilapidated and crumbling adobe wall, the fragments of some cathedral bell, the declining cross as END OF MISSIONS IN CALIFORNIA. 57 It droops in melancholy solitude in the ni'dst of the buried dead, whose history, like their mortal remains, is wrapped in its narrow grave beneath the rank grass and wild brier. California, under tne absolute rule of Spain for fifty years and under the rule of Mexico for twenty-four years, made but little progress either in material, social, or moral development; and, at the time when it fell into the possession of the United States, was almost as unknown, uninhabited, and ur developed as it was when Cortez first attempted its exploration in the sixteenth century. 5S THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER IV. flag hoisted at Mon- Yankee i» "7**?!"% State-Vallejo ™'''^„^,„ zed-Graham ^rofs:??lss^enf^^ornr«^^^^^^ . beneral-in-chief-Bamsn ^^n^ent in Mexico W„„ the dawn of -P^^rJc Sorn.a. The ritory, so that, simultaneously ^j^^. ^ missions, SV°?of'hTru:::^^£ Mexican .^^^^ d^s consisted chiefly of ^f ^™| vmg seamen who £ut the ports and^^^til "ffchfd at the ports left the ships which o casm y ^^^.^^^ ""l^*^"' u along the coast ^nd o ;"« ^^^^ .^„ ,,3 -?f ,1^^ This portion of the new It- ^j^ settlers a jealous eye by '^.^tfrrTsed the special attention The class. l-wever,w^d^engige^^^^^ ^^^^^^^.^„ RUSSIAN COLONY IN CALIFORNIA. 59 tranquil nor entirely unknown previous to this period. Repeated outbreaks among the native and inimigiant population kept pace with the ever turbulent state of affairs in Mexico ; and, besides, many foreign nations had longed for her possession. France had an eye upon this distant land, and, regardless of the claims of Spain or the assumption of England, despatched, in 1 841, from the French legation in Mexico, M. Duflot de Mofras, a scientific and accomplished gentleman, to make explorations in California. For two years De Mofras having occupied himself in the work of investi- gation, sent to his government a detailed account of the country, the Bay of San I^rancisco, the political con- dition of California, the designs of Europe and the United States upon it, and concluded it with the follow- ing statement, " That it is perfectly clear that California will belong to whatsoever nation will take the trouble to send there a ship of war and two hundred soldiers." For a brief period the Russians had a feeble foothold in California ; but it is doubtful if they ever had any intention to subjugate it or permanently settle in it. Those who came to it came to supply with agricultural products the Russian American Fur Company in the cold regions of the northwest. In 1 8 1 2, they established themselves at Bodega bay, in Sonoma county, about sixty miles north of San Francisco. A few years later, they established another small settlement thirty miles north of Bodega, at a place called Ross. At these places they kept up small establishments and forts, to protect them- selves both from the Spanish settlers and the Indians. The former always manifested the greatest jealousy and dislike toward them. After an occupation of thirty years, they, in 1841, sold their property and left the 60 THE GOLDEN STATE. country. Of Russians there were about eight hundred, and a large number of Kodiak Indians ; all of whom sought their homes in the far-off northern climes, turn- ing their backs on the sunny land where they had trapped the beaver and the otter, and worshipped before the cross of the rude Greek church. About the year 1836, jealousies springing up between the Mexican authorities in the territory, the monotony of affairs was disturbed, and occasionally a revolution broke out. A sef ious misunderstanding had existed between Angel Ramirez, a Mexican, and chief official of customs, and Juan Bautista Alvarado, second officer, and a native of California of Spanish descent. Alva- rado's arrest being ordered by Ramirez, he fled, and found refuge in the cabin of Isaac Graham, in the moun- tains of Santa Cruz. Graham had many years previously wandered across the Rocky mountains as a trapper, and had pitched his tent here. He was a Yankee — at least an American, from the State of Tennessee ; and, being ripe for adventure, on hearing of Alvarado's wrongs, in conjunction with him he concocted a scheme for the overthrow of Mexican authority in California, and the proclaiming of California a free and independent State. In a few days, Graham, at the head of a force of fifty riflemen, and Alvarado and Jose Castro, with one hun- dred native Californians, started upon their mission, supplied with ammunition from American vessels on the coast. They by night entered Monterey, the capital of the Territory, seized and made prisoner the Governor, Nicolas Gutierrez, and with him two or three hundred sol- diers. Gutierrez at first made some show of resistance; but the crash through the roof of the presidio building of a four-pound shot soon brought him to his senses. REVOLUTIONS IN CALIFORNIA. 6i He surrendered what he could no longer keep. This was, indeed, the only shot fired during the revolution. Alvarado and Castro were now in undisturbed pos- session of the capital. California was declared a free and independent State, with Alvarado at the head of civil and Guadalupe Vallejo at the head of military- affairs. The Mexican Governor, Gutierrez, with all the Mexican officers and soldiers in California, was banished, a republican government established, and the Catholic religion secured by prohibiting the exercise of any other form of worship. Alvarado, after meeting with some opposition to his rule from a portion of the native Californians, was recognized, and appointed Governor of California, by the Mexican government ; and California having again submitted to Mexican rule, was divided into two dis- tricts with territorial governments, Senor Pefia being prefect of the south and Jose Castro of the north. Alvarado held his position as governor until 1842. Graham and the other foreigners who had assisted in elevating Alvarado to power, having by this time become obnoxious to him, were arrested and sent as prisoners, some to Monterey and Santa Barbara, and the most dangerous to Mexico. This event was cele- brated by a solemn mass and great rejoicings, the prospect of being rid of the adventurous foreigners and the dangerous Yankees being so encouraging. But Alvarado's treachery in this matter failed to accomplish its object; for, in July, 1842, the exiles returned to Monterey on board of a Mexican vessel, at government expense. For this they were indebted to the kind and noble efforts of the English consul and other foreign dignitaries in Mexico. 62 THE GOLDEN STATE. Dissensions were now rife between the civil and military authorities in California, and in August, 1 842, General Manuel Micheltorena arrived at San Diego from Mexico, with full powers from the gov -jrnment to supersede Vallejo in the military and Alvarado in the civil affairs of California. Micheltorena was received by the people with great rejoicing: bull-fights, fandan- gos, and other entertainments attested the joy of the populace. But, in the midst of their festivities, all was brought to a standstill : the irrepressible Yankee had entered upon a new role in California. Commodore Jones, of the United States navy, having been hovering about the coast of California, learned in some way that difficulties existed between the United States and Mexico with reference to Texas, which difficulties were likely to lead to the annexation of Texas and California, if not of Mexico itself. The gallant commodore, believ- ing that it was the desire of his government, with the United States frigate United States an o 11 c c C3 w o •—I c W o EARLY EXPLORATIONS. 65 Viscayno, who, under orders of Philip III of Spain, ex- plored California in 1 803, where at Point Reyes h^i dis- covered the wreck of Sebastian Cermenon's vessel, stranded in 1595 on her voyage from Manilla to Aca- pulco ; and Vistus Behring, a Dane, who was employed by Catharine of Russia to make explorations in the North Pacific and on the coasts of Asia and America. The founding of Sitka, in 1805, by the Russian American Fur Company, which was organized in 1 799, and the founding of the King George's Sound Com- pany, organized in London in 1 784, with the object of making settlements on the Pacific coast, aided much in developing the country. Between the years 1784 and 1 790 the East India Company (English) had despatched several ships to this coast. Thomas Jefferson, '\cting United States minister in France in 1785, took a lively interest in matters pertaining to the Pacific coast. A Connecticut Yankee, named John Ledyard, who accom- panied the famous English navigator. Captain Cook, on his last voyage to the Pacific, conceived the idea of exploring the west coast of America. After several ineffectual efforts to secure aid either from the United States Congress Or the British government, he went to France and had an interview with Thomas Jefferson, then United States minister in that country, at whose suggestion he undertook a journey across the country to Kamtschatka, thence by sea to Nootka sound or some other point on the west coast of America, thence overland to the Atlantic States. Permission was ob- tained from the Empress of Russia for Ledyard to pass through her dominie ns. He proceeded as far as Ir- koutsk, in Siberia, on his way to C)khotsk, where he designed to take passage for the American continent. 66 THE GOLDEN STATE Here he was, on the 24th of February, 1 788, arrested by crder of the Empress of Russia. After being con- veyed to the frontier of Poland, he was released, with the injunction never again to set his foot upon Russian territory. Ledyard soon undertook an expedition to explore the source of the Nile ; and died at Cairo in Egypt, November 15, 1788 The English navigator Vancouver, who visited the coast in 1793, anu spent some time in the Bay of Mon- terey, contrary to Spanish custom, at least on the Pacific, met with a kind reception and received courte- ous attentions from the Spanish authorities at that place. The jealousy of the Spanish toward all foreign inter- course was manifest upon all occasions. The Viceroy of Mexico, on the 23d of October. 1776, wrote to the Governor of California as follows: " That the king, hav- ing received intelligence that two armed vessels had sailed from London, under the command of Captain Cook, bound on a voyage of discovery to the southern ocean and the northern coast of California, commands that orders be given to the Governor of California to be on the watch for Captain Cook, and not permit him to enter the ports of California." Yankee enterprise was seeking wider fields for its operations, and the Pacific was attracting attention. In the summer of 1787, Messrs. Barrell, Bulfinch & Co., merchants, of Boston, Mass., fitted out two vessels and despatched them to the Pacific, with directions to pro- ceed as far north as King George s sound. One of these vessels, the Washington, ninety tons, was com- manded by Captain Robert Gray ; the other, the Co- lumbia, two hundred tons, was commanded by Captain John Kendrick. A resolution had previously passed EARLY VOYAGERS. 67 •Congress that these vessels be granted sea letters of safety by the Federal government, which was done; besides this, the State of Massachusetts issued pass- ports to them, and letters from the Spanish minister in the United States was obtained, introducing the cap- tains to the Spanish officials on the Pacific coast, which latter accounts for Governor Pages' letter to the com- mandant ai the presidio of San Francisco, wherein we have the first mention of an American vessel on the Pacific coast. Both vessels left Boston on the 30th day of September, 1787; and on the 17th of Septem- ber, 1788, the Washington reached Nootka sound, and in a few days the Columbia arrived at the same place. Captain Gray subsequently commanded the Columbia^ and on board of her discovered the Columbia river. Among other articles on board these vessels, intended for trafficking with the natives of the Pacific coast, was a quantity of copper coins, issued by the Commonwealtli of Massachusetts ; some of which were discovered half a century later among the natives on the coast. Following is a letter from the Governor of California to the commandant of the presidio at San Francisco, respecting the Washington and Columbia : "Whenever there may arrive at the port of San Francisco a ship named the Columbia, said to belong to General Washington, of the American States, commanded by John Kendrick, which sailed from Boston in September, 1787, bound on a voyage of discovery to the Russian establishments on the northern coast of this peninsula, you will cause the said vessel to be examined with caution and delicacy, using for this purpose a small boat which you have in your posses- sion, and taking the same measu'-es with every other suspicious foreign vessel, giving me prompt notice of the same. "May God preserve your life many years. "Santa Barbara, Maj> 13, 1789. "To Josef Arguello." "Pedp.c Faces. 68 THE GOLDEN STATE. The ship Columbia alluded to was now under com- mand of Captain Robert Gray, which sailed upon a second voyage in search of traffic among the natives, and arrived at the Straits of Fuca, June 5, 1 791. Cap- tain Gray, on his expedition, in trading down the coast with the natives, on the 7th of May, 1792, three years after the mention made of him by Governor Pages of California, discovered and entered the Columbia river, to which he gave its name, after his ship, which was the first vessel that ever entered that river, and from which Gray set sail homeward on May 20, 1792. Captain Gray, with reports of his discovery and a valuable cargo of furs, returned»to Boston, without touching at any of the ports of California. Expeditions from Boston were soon inaugurated for settlement and trade upon the Columbia ; and from this period American vessels, at intervals, visited the coast, but their trade was chiefly confined to the Columbia river and the distant whale-grounds in the North Pacific. , Jos6 Argiiello, the commandant of the presidio of San Francisco, on the 26th of August, 1803, writes to Governor Jos6 Joaquin de Ar/illaga as follows : "That, on the first of the present month, at the hour of evening prayers, two American vessels anchored in the port, (San Francisco,) one named the Alexander, under the command of Captain John Brown, and the other, named the Aser, under the command of Thomas Raben ; that, as soon as tbey anchored, the captain came ashore to ask permission to get supplies of wood and water, when, observing that he was the same Brown that was there in the preced- ing month of March, he refused to give him permission to remain in port; that, on the day following, at six in the morning, he received a letter from the captain, (or supercargo,) a copy of which he transmits, which is as follows : DIsdoVERY OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 69 "Port of San Francisco, August 12, 1803. **To the Senor Cotnmandante of the port : " Notwithstanding your order for our immediate departure from this port, I am constrained to say that our necessities are such as to render it impossible for us to do so. I would esteem it a great favor if you would come aboard and see for yourself the needy cir- cumstances in which we are placed ; for, during the whole of the time we have been on the northwest coast, we have had no oppor- tunity of supplying ourselves with wood and water, the Indians being so savage that we have not been able to hold any kind of friendly intercourse with them whatever." The letter continues at considerable length, detailing a long cruise of the vessels upon the northwest coast with several encounters with Indians. After detailing the reports of the capture of the ship Boston by the Indian chief Quatlazape, on his travels through the Straits of Juan de Fuca, the massacre of all the crew save two, and the beaching and burning of the vessel, it concludes as follows : ** This is all the account I am able to give of the matter, and I* pray you, in the name of God, to come aboard our ship and see the needy circumstances in which we are placed, destitute of wood and water, and our vessel needing repairs. Trusting in your Chris- tian charity, and that of your nation, we hope to be permitted to remain in this port the time necessary to obtain supplies and make repairs, since otherwise we shall certainly lose our ship. *' God preserve your life many years. "James Rowan." • After the discovery of the Columbia by Captain Gray, the next vessel that entered that river is supposed to have been the brig Jennet, Captain Parker, of Bristol, Rhode Island, in the summer of 1792. On the 20th of October of this year, the Chatham, of the British navy, commanded by Captain Broughton, entered the Co- lumbia and explored it in small boats, leaving on the 70 THE GOLDEN STATE, loth of November following. From this period until 1 805, twelve vessels had entered the Columbia river, all of which were fitted out and sailed from Boston, except one, the Juno, of Bristol, Rhode Island. As early as March 14, 1803, the brig Delia Byrd, Captain Cleveland, of Salem, Mass., arrived at San Diego ; and, in 1 807, the ship yuno, already mentioned, having been sold to the Russians at Sitka, entered the Golden Gate, having on board the Russian ambassador to Japan, Count Von Resanoff. While in California, the count was so delighted with the country that he arranged for the founding of a Russian settlement at Bodega bay, in Sonoma county. This location was made in 181 2; and, in 1820, another settlement was established at Fort Ross, in the same county. The Russians had subsequently a settlement also on the Farallones; but Count Resanoff never returned to California, being accidentally killed in Siberia by a fall from his horse. The English government, desiring to acquire Cali- fornia, offered serious objections to the Russian setde- ments in it ; and the Mexican authorities, fearing that they did not possess the ability to dislodge them from the formidable forts, appealed to the United States government to request their removal, in compliance with the treaty stipulations of April, 1824, between Russia and the United States, that the former would not permit her subjects to make settlements south of latitude 50° 40' on the Pacific. Uncle Sam came to the rescue ; made a demand that the Russians evacuate ; and in 1841 the imperial eagles of the Czar took their flight northward to Alaska. One of the brass guns of the Russian company in California is now in the pos- s< w til in S€ W( ea of Je lai 15 wa of Bo Pel Co Ca] tair on in( Ii mei Ast Hui Fur with saik the : the! after Hun VOYAGEKS AND EXPLORERS. 71 session of the Pioneer Society in San Francisco ; others, with other property, were sold to Captain Sutter on the departure of the company, and the remainder were included in Seward's recent purchase of the Czar's pos- sessions in North America. Perkins, Lamb & Co., and Lyman & Co., of Boston, were the principal parties in fitting out vessels for the earl) traffic on the northwest coast. The expedition of Lewis and Clark, under the direction of President Jefferson, to explore the Columbia, which left the At- lantic side in 1 804, arrived at the Columbia, November 15, 1805; and in March, 1806, started n their home- ward march, to report to theii* government the r'isult of their expedition. During the years 1806-9, ten vessels, fitted out from Boston by the enterprising firms of Thomas Lyman, Perkins, Lamb & Co., and Lyman & Co., entered the Columbia; and, in 18 10, the Albatross, from Boston, Captain T. Winship, entered the Columbia. The cap- tain located a post, and planted a garden, at Oak Point, on the Columbia. This was the first settiement made in Oregon. In this year a new stimulus was given to the com- mercial interests of the Pacific coast. John Jacob Astor, of New York, in connection with Wilson P. Hunt, of New Jersey, and others, organized the Pacific Fur Company. In September, 18 10, the ship Tonquin, with the stores, officers, employes, &c., of this company, sailed from New York, and arrived at the Columbia on the 24th of March, 181 1, and established themselves on the southern bank near the mouth, which they named, after the founder of the company, Astoria. Astor and " Hunt admitted into the company Messrs. McDougal, THE GOLDEN STATE. McKay, and Robert and David Stewart, who, at the head of eleven clerks, thirteen Canadian voyagers, and five mechanics, entered upon a most lively and profita- ble fiir-trade. A garden was planted, started by plant- ing twelve potatoes, (all they had,) and an American settlement was commenced. On the 5th of May, 181 2, the ship Beaver, twenty guns. Captain Sowls, by way of the Sandwich islands, with additional supplies, and having on board Mr. Clark, six clerks, and twenty-six Kanakas, arrived to join Astor's company on the Columbia. News of American occupation of Oregon reaching the British authorities and the members of the North- west Fur Company, (a company established by charter of Louis XIII, of France, in Acadia, Nova Scotia, in 1630, and whose existence and legality were acknowl- edged by the British government on the transfer of Acadia to England by the treaty of Utrecht, in 1714,) they became alarmed at the encroachments of Ameri- cans in such close proximity to the northern .British American boundary, then undefined and uncertain. This fur company despatched from Canada Mr. David Thompson, as their agent, to the Columbia river, where he arrived July 15, 181 3, and located at Astoria. His object was to supplant Astor and his American inter- ests, and obtain possession of the country and its fur trade. Messrs. Hunt, McKenzie, McClellan, and Crooks, members of the Pacific Fur Company, with sixty men, had left the Atlantic States, crossed the country, and, after great peril and the loss of many of their com- rades, arrived at Astoria, January 28, 1 8 1 2. In August, 1812, Mr. Hunt, on board the Beaver, made a voyage FUR TRADERS ON THE COAST. 73 to the Russian settlements of Alaska for the purpose of trade ; thence to the Sandwich islands, from whence he despatched his ship to China, and remained at the Sandwich islands until June, 1813, when the Albatross, on her way from -Canton, brought him the news of the war between Great Britain and the United States, and that the company's ship Beaver was at Canton, blockaded by an English war- ship. Mr* Hunt, on board the Albatross, sailed at once for the Columbia river, where he arrived August 4, 181 3. Here he found things changed: his resident partners at Astoria, who managed the business in the interior, were British subjects, and were desirous to sell the rights of the company to the Northwest Fur Company. Hunt, on the Albatross, soon departed for the Sandwich islands. At Washington islands he met the United States frigate Essex, Commodore Porter, from whom he learned that the British intended to seize all the American property on the Pacific. At the Sandwich islands he chartered the brig Pedler and started back to Astoria, where he arrived in February, 1814, only to learn that immedi- ately after his departure from Astoria, in August, 181 3, Mr. McTavish, an agent of the Northwest Fur Com- pany, with a number of employes, had arrived at Asto- ria, and that his partners had, on the i6th of October, 181 3, sold out the American Pacific Fur Company to the Northwest Fur Company, and had themselves joined that company and thrown all their influence into it. Thus, by the duplicity of the British subjects in the Astor company, and without the knowledge or consent of its founder and head, they turned Ov -r to the North- west Fur Company, at a nominal sum, that prosperous concern, which in so short a time (two years) had laid 74 THE GOLDEN STATE. the foundation of American settlement on the Pacific coast, and the princely fortune of its projector. The British, in possession of the fur company and Astoria, changed its name to their patron saint, and called it Fort George. On December i , following, the British sloop-of-war Raccoon, Captain Black, arrived at Astoria, and landed a troop of British soldiers. Black took formal possession of the place, lowered the Ameri- can flag, and placed in its stead the cross of St. George' and thus Oregon was in possession of the British, which they formally held until the 6th of October, 1818, when, by order of the Prince Regent of England to the North American Fur Company, under date of January 27, 181 8, to deliver the territory to the American govern- ment, it was restored by the following article : " We, the undersigned, do, in conformity to the first article of the treaty of Ghent, restore to the government of the United States, through its agent, J. P. Provost, Esq., the settlement of Fort George, on the Columbia river. " Given under our hands in triplicate, at Fort George, (Columbia river,) this 6th day of October, 1818. " F. HiCKEY, Captain H. M. Ship Blossom, "J. Keith, of the N. W. Co." On the restoration of the territory, the stars and stripes once more floated over Oregon. In 1821, the North American Fur Company and the Hudson Bay Company consolidated, under the name of ihe Hudson Bay Company, in which capacity they continued in Oregon and Washington Territory until a very recent period. On the disbandment of the Pacific Fur Company, (Astor's,) a number of the employes of the company embarked in trading and independent trapping, some of whom found their way to California. Astor, however. ,. |vl(''"!;i#i- ^m-§tm^^ ii.sMK I Ai ..- "i- nil', vn ( ;w fttl in height. I ,, , I. 1 l-.KUr|iiKV, NoMhcrii I'aclfli. (tailroud,^ mm TRAPPERS IN INTERIOR. 75 did not abandon the fur trade ; but, in connection with W. H. Ashley, in 1823, formed a second North Ameri- can Fur Company, extending its operations in die direc- tion of the Rocky mountains; and, in 1824, established a post near Salt lake. In 1826, diis company had in its employ over one hundred men in the Rocky moun- tains and on the Green river. During this period a company known as the Rocky Mountain Fur Company was trading in the mountains, and pushed its operations into California, and as far north as the Umpqua river in Oregon. The members of this company were Messrs. Jackson, Sublette, Smith, and others. The overland journeys up to this date were all made to Oregon : as yet, the foot of the white man had never entered California by the overland route, until the Smith above alluded to, in the spring of 18.15, found his way into California, i.nd who is entitled to the honorof being the earliest overland pioneer of California. In July, 1825, he established a post near the present town of Folsom, and entered upon his business of trapping. Smith, in October of this year, left his com- pany on the American river and started east to report to his partners on Green river. In May, 1826, in com- pany with several others, he again set oat for California. On his way, at the Mohave settlements on the Colorado, all the party except Smith and two others were killed by the Indians. Smith and his two companions, Turner and Galbraith, on entering California, in December, 1826, in the lower part of the State, were arrested or» suspicion of having designs against the government, and carried to the presidio at San Diego, where the commandant cf" the territory, Governor Echandia, interrogated them upoa 76 THE GOLDEN STATE. their intentions and business in California. The follow- ing letter from the officers of American vessels then on the coast had the effect of releasing Smith and his com- panions, securing them a passport permitting them to pursue their journey toward the Columbia river in Oregon : " We, the undersigned, having been requested by Captain Jedediah S. Smith to state our opinions regarding his entering the province of California, do not hesitate to say that we have no doubt in our minds but that he was compelled to for want of provisions and water, having entered so far into the barren co'tntry that lies between the latitudes of forty-two and forty-three west that he found it im- possible to return by the route he came, as his horses had most of them perished for want of food and water. He was, therefore, under the necessity of pushing forward to California, it being the nearest place where he could procure supplies to enable him to return. " We further state as our opinions that the account given by him is circumstantially correct, and that his sole object was the hunting and trapping of beaver and other furs. "We have also examined the passports produced by him from the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the government of the United States of America, and do not hesitate to say we believe them to be perfectly correct. "We also state that, in our opinion, his motive for wishing to pass by a different route to the head of the Columbia river on his return is solely because he *eels convinced that he and his companions run gfeat risk of perishing if they return by the route they came. " In testimony whereof, we have hereunto set our hands and seals this 2oth day of December, 1826. "Wm. G. Dana, Capt. of Schooner Waverly. [l. s.] "Wm. H. Cunningham, Capt. of Ship Courier. [l. s.] "Wm. Henderson, Capt. of Brig Olive Branch. [l. s.] "James Scott. [l. s.] "Thos. M. RoBniNS, Mate of Schooner Waverly. [l. s.] "Thos. Shaw, Supercargo of Ship Courier.'" [l. s.] Smith, with his companions, except Turner and Gal- braith, who remained in California, started upon their y. S. SMITH, FIRST EXPLORER. 11 northward journey; but winter coming on, they met with great difficulty in pursuing their course, and, after several ineffecfial attempts to cross the mountains, were forced to retrent to the valleys for shelter and suste- nance. Here Smith again found himself in trouble: his presence appeared before the " holy fathers " like a terrible apparition, filling them with terror, and they again demanded an explanation; and poor Smith, reduced to extremities sufficient to arouse sympathy in the heart of a pagan, pours forth his sad story to Father Duran, then stationed at San Jose: LETTER FROM CAPTAIN JEDEDIAH S. SMITH TO FATHER DORAN. ** Reverend Father: I understand, throi. :h the medium of one of your Christian Indians, that you are anxious to know who we are, as some of the Indians have been at the mission and infoimed you that there were certain whiis people im the country. We are Americans, on our journey to the River Columbia. We were m at the Mission San Gabriel in January last. I went to San Diego and saw the general, and got a passport Irom him to pass on to that place. I have made several efforts to cross the mountains, but the snows being so deep, I could not succeed in getting over. I re- turned to this place (it being the only point to kill meat) to wail a few weeks until the snow melts, so that I can go on. The Indians here also being friendly, I consider it the most safe point for me t- remain nntil such time as I can cross the mountains with my horses, having lost a great many in attempting to cross ten or fifteen days smce. I am a long ways from home, and am anxious to get there as soon as ti»e nature of the ccuse will admit. Our sit\ialion is quite unpleasant, ueing destitute of clothing and most of the necessaries of life, wild meat being our principal subsistence. " I am, reverend father, your strange but real friend and Chrisnan brother, "J. S. SMfTH. "May 19, 1827." Smith and his party, in the summer ys 4G^^ \ :\ <^ 6^ <^ A'- '^^ <^ «.'* M ^ r ^'^ ii5 % «» MM 82 THE GOLDEN STATE. Colville, through the greater part of Oregon and Wash ington Territory, he proceeded to CaHfornia. On the 14th of October, 1 841, the Vincennes, Commander Ring- gold, arrived at San Francisco. Here mtelligence of the death of President Harrison was received. Wilkes, in his report, says : " As soon as the ship anchored, an officer was despatched on shore to call upon the authori- ties ; but none of any description were to be found ; the only magistrate or alcalde was absent." After the land expedition had explored Southern Oregon and a great portion of the mterior of California, the various divisions of the expedition met at San Francisco, on the ist of November, 1841, from whence the fleet sailed for the Hawaiian group. From there the expedition extended its operations to the South Pacific, returning home by China and the Cape of Good Hope, and arrived at New York on the loth day of June, 1842, and disbanded. Wilkes' official report to Congress of his extensive explorations in the Pacific — a work of five volumes, with drawings, maps, charts, &c. — is a valuable acqui- sition to our early history of the Pacific coast ; but fails to exhibit either the genial climate or fertile soil of California as these subjects deserve; and the single allusion of his mineralogist, Mr. Dana, of the indication of precious metals in some quartz specimens found in Southern Oregon, is the only mention made of mmerals in his report. It was in conjunction with this expedition, and to ex- plore that part of the Pacific coast which could not be reached by Wilkes' party, that the expeditions of John C. Fremont and his associates were subsequently inaugurated. =: a ^c B ^ a 7i FREMONrS EXPLORATIONS. $3 The solicitude of the government to ascertain more concerning the region in the vicinity of the Columbia river being settled up with Americans caused a com- mission to be issued to John C Fremont, to explore the Rocky mountains in search of an available pass to the Columbia. In furtherance of this object, Fremont, at the head of a party fitted out for this expedition, left Washington, on the 2d of May, 1842 ; and, after a six months campaign, in which he extended his explora- tions no farther than the Rocky mountains, he, on the 29th of October, returned and reported the result of his observations, which were so favorably received by Congress that a second expedition was fitted out, with directions to explore not only a route through the Rocky mountains but through the greater part of Ore- gon and California. Fremont was again appointed to command this expedition, consisting of thirty-nine men, which left the Missouri river on their western tour in May, 1843. Fremont pushed westward with great energy, making scientific observations upon the whole route. On No- vember, 4, 1 843, he arrived at the Dalles on the Colum- bia river, Oregon, and soon started southward through the Wallamet valley and Southern Oregon by Klamath lake. Here he encountered the Sierras, and with his horses and mules famishing, surrounded with frowning granite peaks, deep ravines, biting frosts, and increasing depth of snow, without trail or hope of speedy relief, he passed New Year's day, 1844. From this period until March following, this little band battled daily against the rigid frosts and desolation of the Sierras, when, finally, reaching the southern slope of the mountains, fi4 THE GOLDEN STATE. hope dawned upon them. They emerged from their winter imprisonment on March 6, 1844. Fremont, in his report, says : "Here the grass was smooth and green, and groves very open; 'the large oaks throwing a broad shade among sunny spots. Shortly afterwards, we gave a shout at the appearance on a little bluff of a neatly built adobe house with glass windows. . . . We came unexpectedly into a large Indian village, where the people looked clean, and wore cotton shirts, and various other articles of dress." This was one of Sutter's houses, and Fremont and his party soon found themseh'^es in comfortable quarters with the noble Swiss philanthropist. On the 24th of March, Fremont headed homeward, following the San Joaquin valley, with the Sierras on his left ; heading south he soon reached the alkaline plains of San Bernrrdino county, of which inhospitable region Fremont, in his report, speaks as follows : " One might travel the world over without finding a valley more fresh and yerdant — more floral and sylvan — more alive with birds and animals — more bounteously watered — than we had left in the San Joaquin; here, within a few miles ride, a vast desert plain spreads before us, from which the boldest traveller turns away in despair." % He further says : " Our cavalcade made a strange and grotesque appearance ; and it was impossible to avoid reflecting upon our position and composi- tion in this remote solitude. Within two degrees of the Pacific ocean ; already far south of the latitude of Monterey, and still forced on south by the desert on one hand and the mountain range on the other; guided by a civilized Indian, attended by two wild ones from the Sierras, a Chinook from the Columbia, and our own mix- ture of American, French, and German — all armed ; four or five languages heard at once ; above a hundred horses and mules, half wild ; American, Spanish, and Indian dresses and equipments inter- FREMONT'S EXPEDITIONS. 85 mingled — such was our composition, . . In this form we jour- neyed ; looking more like we belonged to Asia than to the United Srates of America. ' ' In May, 1844, Fremont and his party found them- selves, after travelling a circuit of thirty-five hundred miles since September, 1843, '^"^ the vicinity of Salt lake ; where they had halted in their westward march. On the 6th of August, 1844, he with his party arrived at St. Louis, where they disbanded; and thus ended his second overland expedition. 86 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER VI. Pico and Castro in command of California — Decline of the mis- sions — Early trade — English, French, and American consuls in California — Indolence of the people — Fremont's third explora- tion : his trials and triumphs in California — Castro and Fremont — Fremont raises the American flag — Lieutenant Gillespie carries letters to Fremont — Kit Carson saves Fremont — Sonoma captured — ^W. B. Ide declares a republican government and hoists the ' * Bear Flag" — Fremont elected Governor — Commodore Sloat captures Monterey — British projects frustrated — Sloat's proclamation — The American flag hoisted in San Francisco — Commodore Stock- ton at Monterey — Dupont and General Kearney at Monterey — Arrival of Stevenson's regiment — Uneasiness of the native Cali- fbrnians — Interesting speeches — Proposition to place California under the protection of England or France — General Vallejo favors annexation to the United States. The spring of 1846 found Governor Pico and General Castro — who, with General Vallejo, had deposed the last of the Mexican governors in California — in com- mand of the civil and military affairs of the territory. But these officers were neither reconciled to their rela- tions with each other nor the future aspect of the affairs of California. By this time the missions of the pious fathers had been abandoned, and were in a hopeless state of decay; the native converts had lost their piety with the decline of their supply of Wbd ; the vast herds and flocks of the Franciscan fathers had disappeared. Most of the officials and influential men of Mexico at one time in the country had either been banished or of their own will had departed. The last of the Spanish galleons had disappeared from the Pacific. The inte- rior trade of the whole countr- was a mere myth. Ships commanded and owned by Americans were hovering about the ports, supplying the setders and "^<;^ ':Vt MONTEREY, MEXICAN TERRITORIAL CAPITAL OK CALIFORNIA, IN I846. I l i *%^ai** MISSION RANCHO, CALIFORNIA, IN I77O. «. INDOLENCE OF THE PEOPLE, 87 natives with all kinds of goods and "notions," for which they received hides, tallow, and peltry; these found a market chiefly in Boston. Many foreigners were settling about the coast ; and across the plains and from Oregon came considefable numbers of Yankees, always a terror to the Spanish and Mexican settlers. England, France, and the United States had their consuls at Monterey, the capital, and the ships of their r».spective nations seemed to increase and hover suspiciously about the ports. All attachment to Spanish rule had long since died out, and Mexico, always in the throes of intestine war, had neither security nor attraction for the native popu- lation of the country, now the sole rulers of California. The Indians had long before ceased to be the willing slaves of the people. The masses were reckless, indo- lent, and illiterate, living off the flocks and herds which roamed over limitless acres. Agriculture was almost entirely unknown; the hand of skill and industry had never brought forth from the rich soil the rewards of the husbandman ; roads, bridges, canals, and wheeled carriages were unknown ; the iron horse had not yet crossed the Mississippi, nor looked out upon the placid waters of the Pacific ocean. All branches of art and manufacture were yet a mystery. Codes of laws, courts, and juries, with doctors, lawyers, and schools, were unheard of. Carpets, cooli-stoves, window glass, and wood floors were never seen ; milk, butter, cheese, and eggs were something of which the people knew not even by name, although cattle dotted every hill, and the genial climate and prolific soil, without the aid of man, supported all stock the whole year around. What is now the city of San Francisco was a scattered 88 THE GOLDEN STATE. village of mud and adobe huts, with a few hundred in- habitants, who alternately waded through sand and mud unaided by streets, and no other light than that which the tallow candle or whale oil afforded. Navigation upon the inland waters of the State was confined to a few whaleboats in the possession of the resident foreigners. The great forests, fisheries, quarries of granite, and beds of coal were undisturbed. The Si*nds of the Yuba and Feather rivers still concealed their golden treasure, and the great bosom of nature, which held in its gigantic and stern embrace the mineral wealth of the foot-hills and Sierras, still refused to man the secret which two years later electrified the world, and brought the most unknown and fairest portion of the globe into close social and commercial relations with all parts of the world, and so materially aided in developing California, in 1870, to its status of five hundred and sixty thou- sand active, educated, and progressive people, in the possession of real estate to the value of two hundred million dollars, and personal property worth one hun- dred million dollars, and an area and capabilities to sus- tain a population of seventy million. The third expedition under Fremont was projected by Congress during the early part of 1845 ; and in the spring of that year started across the plains and the Rocky mountains to the Pacific, with instructions to endeavor to find the best route from the Rocky moun- tains to the mouth of the Columbia river. After a most hazardous journey, he arrived with his faithful guide and escort. Kit Carson, and his men, (six of whom were Delaware Indians,) the whole company consisting of sixty-two men, within a hundred miles of Monterey, where he halted, and proceeded in person to the head- w MEXICAN TREACHER Y. §9 quarters of General Castro, the Mexican general in charge of the territory. His object was to obtain a pass for himself and company to go to the San Joaquin valley, where hunting and pasture were abundant. He received a verbal promise from the general that it would be all right, to go where he desired, and that, on his word of honor "as a soldier," he \. ^>ald not he molested. Freraont and his party were soon on tbeir way to the valley. Three days after this, General Castro had raised an army of three hundred native Californians, and sent a despatch to Fremont, notifying him to quit the country at once, else he would march upon him and put to death his whole company. This treachery did not much surprise Fremont, who replied that he would leave when he was ready. He prepared for action, entrenched himself on " Hank's Peak," about thirty miles from Monterey, and overlooking that village, where he raised the American flag. The whole com- pany was well armed, each with a knife, a tomahawk, two pistols, and a rifle. Castro now came dashing on with cavalry, infantry, and artillery ; but, after making a few ineffectual attacks, always galloped off before coming within range of Fremont's bullets. Castro issued bulletins and proclamations daily of the impend- ing destruction of the little band, but always keeping out of rifle-range of the entrenchments. After four days of this fighting, Fremont broke camp and started on his journey toward Oregon. Castro was not visible. Fremont had proceeded into Oregon, and had reached Klamath lake, when he was overtaken by Lieutenant Gillespie, of the United States army, who had left i 90 THE GOLDEN STATE. Washington the previous November, crossing the coun- try from Vera Cruz to Mazatlan, and who arrived at Monterey in a United States sloop-of-war, and started up the valley in search of the explorers. Gillespie had letters to Fremont from the Secretary of State, and it is supposed ^hey, or other letter? -o him from friends at Washington, caused him to retrace his steps and re- turn to the valley of the Sacramento. This move had been quickened by the fact that, on the very night after receiving his despatches, and while all were asleep, the Indians broke into his camp and assassinated three of his Delaware Indians, and might have slain the whole company had it not: been for the vigilance of Kit Carson, who sounded the alarm. Fremont soon returned to the Sacramento valley, and encamped near the mouth of the Feather river, where the settlers soon flocked around him. Great alarm was caused by reports that General Castro, with a strong force of cavalry, was on the march to attack them. A company of twelve volunteers, headed by Mr. Mersite, started for the Mexican fort at Sonoma, in Sonoma county, and on the 15th of June, 1846, entered and captured the post, where they found two hundred and fifty stand of arms and nine cannon. Here they captured General Vallejo, and took him a prisoner to Sutter's fort at Sacramento. William B. Ide, a New England man, was left to garrison the fort at Sonoma, with a force of eighteen men. General Castro having charge of the department of Sonoma, issued his proclamation, calling upon his countrymen to rise and drive the marauders from the soil. On the i8th of June, Ide issued his proclamation to the people of Sonoma, to defend themselves, and IDE'S PROCLAMATION. 91 calling upon them to assemble at Sonoma, and assist in establishing a republican government Following is Ide's proclamation : *' A proclamation to all persons and citizens of the District of Sonoma, requesting them to remain at peace, and follow their rightful occupa- tions without fear of molestation. " The Commander-in-chief of the troops assembled at the fortress of Sonoma gives his inviolable pledge to all persons in California, not found under arms, that they shall not be disturbed in their per- sons, their property, or social relations, one with another, by men under his command. " He also solemnly declares his object to be, first, to defend him- self and companions in arms, who were invited to this country by a promise of lands on which to settle themselves and families, who were also promised a republican government ; when, having arrived in California, they were denied the privilege of buying or renting lands of their friends; who, instead of being allowed to participate in or being protected by a republican government, were oppressed by a military despotism j who were even threatened by proclama- tion, by the chief officers of the aforesaid despotism, with extermi- nation, if they should not depart out of the country, leaving all their property, arms, and beasts of burden ; and thus deprived of their means of flight or defence, were to be driven through deserts inhab- ited by hostile Indians to certain destruction. " To overthrow a government which has seized upon the property of the missions for its individual aggrandizement, which has ruined and sh ■'mefuUy oppressed the laboring people of California by enor- mous CKactions on goods imported into the country, is the determined purpose of the brave men who are associated under my command. " I also solemnly declare my object, in the second place, to be to invite all peaceable and good citizens of California, who are friendly to the maintenance of good order and equal rights, and I do hereby invite them, to repair to my camp at Sonoma, without delay, to assist us in establishing and perpetuating a republican government, which shall secure to all civil and religious liberty, which shall encourage virtue and literature, which shall leave unshackled by fetters agriculture, commerce, and manufactures. " I further declare that I rely upon the rectitude of our intentions, the favor of Heaven, and the bravery of those who are bound and 92 THE GOLDEN STATE, associated with me by the principles of self-preservation, by the love of truth, and the hatred of tyranny, for my hopes of success. "I furthermore declare that I believe that a government, to be prosperous and happy, must originate with the people, who are friendly to its existence; that the citizens are its guardians, the officers its servants, its glory its reward. "William B. Ide. "Head-Quarters, Sonoma, June i8, 1^546." A flag was improvised, by painting in rude form the figure of a grizzly bear on a piece of white cotton cloth. It followed Ide's proclamation, and was the first flag after California was declared independent of Mexico. It is still in possession of the " Pioneer Society " of California, at San Francisco. Fremont was at Sutter's fort during these event- ful operations ; but hearing that Castro intended a raid upon Ide at Sonoma, he reached there, on the 23d of June, at the head of ninety riflemen. He met only a few retreating Mexicans of De la Torres' band, who made their way to Saucelito, where they escaped by boat across the bay to Yerba Buena, (now San F>an- cisco.) Castro did not appear. Fremont returned to Sonoma, and, on July 4, 1846, called a meeting of the Americans. He was appointed governor, issued a proclamation of independence, and declared war against Mexico ; and, at the head of his company of one hundred and sixty men, started for Sutter's fort, intending to attack Castro, who was re- ported to be at Santa Clara. They soon learned, how- ever, that he was on the retreat to Los Angeles, but they determined to follow him, (some five hundred miles.) Soon news reached them of a new feature In affairs. On the 7th day of July, Commodore Sloat, of the United I UNITED STATES AND MEXICO AT WAR. 93 States navy, with the frigate Savannah and another small vessel, arrived at the Bay of Monterey, California. The commodore had no instructions from his govern- ment to take any hostile steps on the Pacific coast : on the contrary, his mission was peace ; but whilst he was at Mazatlan he heard of the annexation of Texas, and of the war waging between Mexico and the United States, and that General Taylor was already marching toward the city of Mexico, and that Matamoras was occupied by United States forces. These things Sloat ha^d learned while chi board his vessel at the Mexican port of Mazatlan. The news of these events had been sent by courier privately from the city of Mexico to the Mexican officials at Mazatlan; and although instruc- tions had been issued, dated May 1 3, 1 846, and directed by the President of the United States, to Commodore Sloat, to take possession of and hold Mazatlan, Monte- rey, and San Francisco, and to declare the country the property of the United States, they had not reached him. Admiral Seymour, of the British navy, with the line- of-battle ship Colling^ivood, was at Mazatlan. He had also received despatches from the city of Mexico, and it was evident that all the Mexican officials favored the occupation of California by the British, Instead of by their enemies, the Americans, with whom they were now at war. The British admiral, basking In the smiles of the Mexican authorities, hoisted sail upon his ship, and the Colli ngwood majestically moved seaward, bound for Monterey. Commodore Sloat, who was watching with a jeal*" is eye the movements of the British admiral, 94 THE GOLDEN STATE. half an hour later set sail upon his two little vessels, the Savannah and Preble, and headed direcdy for Mon- terey, determined to take possession of the town if he arrived there before the British admiral. The Savan- nah, being the fastest, reached Monterey first, where Sloat learned of determined efforts being made by the British and Mexican authorities to place California under the protection of the English government. Governor Pico, the Mexican Governor of the Terri- tory of California, and General Castro, were in favor of this scheme. Mr. Forbes, the English vice-consul at Monterey, was active in making the negotiations; and the American consul, Thomas O. Larkin, also at Monterey, informed Sloat upon his arrival of the state of affairs. This, together with the news of the opera- tions of Fremont and his party at Sonoma, (it is sup- posed he had heard of them,) and the state of affairs between the United States and Mexico, determined him at once (July 7) to despatch two hundred and fifty marines on shore, and to hoist the American flag over the town of Monterey. A salute of twenty-one guns was fired, and a proclamation issued that California henceforth was a part of the United States. The dull ship of the British rear-admiral arrived at Monterey only to see the stars and stripes floating over it as a part of the republic of America. The admiral, too, read the proclamation, and saw that he was out- witted by Sloat, and outrun by the Savamtah, and that the swiftness of the Savannah and the gallantr^?^ of Commodore Sloat had placed California beyond British rule. The proclamation is as follows : COMMODORE BLOATS PROCLAMATION. 95 it TO THE INHABITANTS OF CALIFORNIA! *' The central government of Mexico having commenced hostilities against the United States of America, by invading its territory, and attacking the troops of the United States stationed on the north jide of the Rio Grande, and with a force of seven thousand men, under the command of General Arista, which army was totally destroyed, and all their artillery, baggage, &c., captured on the 8th and 9th of May last, by a force of two thousand and three hundred men, under the command of General Taylor, and the city of Mata- moras taken and occupied by the forces of the United States, and the two nations being actually at war by this transaction, I shall hoist the standard of the United States at Monterey immediately, and shall carry it throughout California. *' I declare to the inhabitants of California that, although I come in arms with a powerful force, I do not come among them as an enemy to California : on the contrary, I come as their best friend, as henceforth California will be a portion of the United States, and its peaceable inhabitants will enjoy the same rights and principles they now enjoy, together with the privilege of choosing their own magistrates and other officers for the administration of justice among themselves, and the same protection will be extended to them as to any other State in the Union. They will also enjoy a permanent government, under which life, property, and the constitutional right and lawful security to worship the Creator in the way the most congenial to each other's sense of duty will be secured, which, unfortunately, the central government of Mexico cannot afford them, destroyed as her resources are by internal factions and corrupt officers, who create constant revolutions to promote their own interests and oppress the people. Under the flag of the United States, California will be free from all such trouble and expenses ; consequently the country will rapidly advance and improve both in agriculture and commerce, as, of course, the revenue laws will be the same in Cali- fornia as in all parts of the United States, affording them all manu- flictures and produce of the United States free of any duty, and all foreign goods at one-quarter of the duty they now pay. A great increase in the value of real estate and the products of California may also be anticipated. "With the great interest and kiild feeling I know the government and people of the United -tates possess towards the citizens of Call- 96 THE GOLDEN STATE. i I 1 M I * f I i t forni'a, the country cannot but improve more rapidly than any other on the continent of America. ' ' Such of the inhabitants of California, whether native or foreigners, as may not be disposed to accept the high privileges of citizenship, and to live peaceably under the government of the United States, will be allowed time to dispose of their property and to remove out of t^' J country, if they choose, without any restriction ; or remain in it, observing strict neutrality. "With full confidence in the honor and integrity of the inhabitants of the country, I invite the judges, alcaldes, and other civil officers to execute their functions as heretofore, that the public tranquillity may not be disturbed ; at least until the government of the territory can be more definitely arranged. "All persons holding titles to real estate, or in quiet possession of land under color of right, shall have those titles guaranteed to them. "All chuiclits and the property they contain in possession of the clergy of California shall continue in the same rights and possessions they now enjoy. "All provisions and supplies of every kind furnished by the in- habitants for the use of the United States ships and soldiers will be paid for at fair rates ; and no private property will be taken for public use without just compensation at the mom mt. "John D. Sloat, "Commander-in-chief of U. S. Naval Force on Pacific Ocean. "United States Flag-Ship Savannah, "Harbor of Monterey, Jtily 7, 1846." The day following, July 8, by order of Commodore Sloat, a party from the United States sloop-of-war Portsmouth landed at Yerba Buena, now San Francisco, and hoisted the American flag on the plaza. On the loth, Commander Montgomery, of the Ports mouth, sent an American flag to Sonoma, which was hoisted, and the flag improvised by Ide and his men, known as the "Bear Flag," was hauled down, all welcom- ing the stars and stripes. Commodore Stockton, on board the United States frigate Congress, arrived at Monterey July 1 5, just'one ! 1 OCCUPATION OF CALIFORNIA. 97 week after Sloat had taken possession of the country ; and one week later, Commodore Sloat sailed home on board the Levant. Stockton was now in full command of the American fleet, aided by Commodore Dupont. Meantime, Gen- eral Stephen W. Kearney had arrived at Monterey, crossing by way of New Mexico. He had orders from the United States government to take possession of and establish a government for California ; but, on his arrival, he found that Sloat, Stockton, and Fremont had already accomplished these things. One of the forces which conduced much to the suc- cessful military occupation of California was the arrival at San Francisco, on the 7th of March, 1847, of Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson, at the head of one thousand volunteers, raised in New York, to serve, during the war, in California. The conquest of California had taken place before the arrival of this regiment ; but it was of invaluable service to the State in maintaining order in the country. Early in 1846, it was agreed upon by the leading Mexican officials of the Territory of California, as pro- mulgated by the Departmental Assembly, that a con- vention should meet at Santa Barbara, on the 1 5th of June, 1846, to consider the future prospects of the country. Before this period arrived, the stars and stripes w6re hoisted by Fremont ; but before this, and before the authorities knew of Fremont's coming to the country, an informal meeting, held at Monterey, at the house of Don Jose Castro, fully developed that the people were ready for any form of government that would afford them protection and security from their never-ceasing political *:urmoil. \ 98 THE GOLDEN STATE. Following are a few extracts from speeches made by leading persons at this meeting : "Excellent Sirs, to what a deplorable condition is our country reduced ! Mexico, professing to be our mother and our protectress, has given us neither arms, nor money, nor the materials of war for our defence. She is not likely to do any thing in our behalf, although she is quite willing to afflict us with her extortionate min- ions, who come hither, in the guise of soldiers and civil officers, to harass and oppress our people. We possess a glorious country, capable of attaining a physical and moral greatness corresponding with the grandeur and beauty which an Almighty hand has stamped upon the face of our beloved California. But, although nature has been prodigal, it cannot be denied that we are not in a position to avail ourselves of her bounty. Our population is not large, and it is sparsely scattered over valley and mountain, covering an immense area of virgin soil, destitute of roads, and traversed with difficulty ; hence it is hardly possible to collect an army of any considerable force. Our people are poor, as well as few, and cannot well govern themselves and maintain a decent show of sovereign power. Although we live in the midst of plenty, we lay up nothing ; but, tilling the earth in an imperfect manner, all our time is required to procure subsistence for ourselves and families. Thus circumstanced, we find ourselves threatened by hordes of Yankee immigrants, who have already begun to flock into our country, and whose progress we cannot arrest. Already have the wagons of that perfidious people scaled the almost inaccessible summit of the Sierra Nevada, crossed the entire continent, and penetrated the fruitful valley of the Sacra- mento. What that astonishing people will next undertake I cannot say, but, in whatever enterprise they embark, they will be sure to prove successful. Already are these adventurous land-voyagers spreading themselves far and wide over a country which seems suited to their taste. They are cultivating farms, establishing vineyards, erecting mills, sawing up lumber, building workshops, and doing a thousand other things which seem natural to them, but which Cali- fomians neglect or despise. What, then, are we to do? Shall we remain supine, while these daring strangers are overrunning our fertile plains, and gradually outnumbering and displacing us ? Shall these 'incursions go on unchecked, until we shall become strangers in our own land ? We cannot successfully oppose therp by our own CIV FrJ Me] exte that and! Iwc natui fare. I ough CALIFORNIA SEEKING PROTECTION. 99 unaided power, and the swelling tide of immigration renders the odds against us more powerful every day. We cannot stand alone against them, nor can we creditably maintain our independence even against Mexico; but there is something which we can do, which will elevate our country, strengthen her at all points, and yet enable us to preserve our identity and remain masters of our own soil. Perhaps what I am about to suggest may seem to some faint- hearted and dishonorable. But to me it does not appear so. It is the last hope of a feeble people, struggling against a tyrannical gov- ernment which claims their submission at home, and threatened by bands of avaricious strangers from without, voluntarily to connect themselves with a power able and willing to defend and preserve them. It is the right and duty of the weak to demand support from the strong, provided the demand be made upon terms just to both parties. I see no dishonor in this last refuge of the oppressed and powerless, and I boldly avow that such is the step I would now have California take. There are two great powers in Europe which seem destined to divide between them the unappropriated countries of the world. They have large fleets and armies not unpractised in the art of war. Is it not better to connect ourselves with one of these powerful nations than to struggle on without hope as we are doing now ? Is it not better that one of them should be invited to send a fleet and an army to protect California rather than we should fall an easy prey to the lawless adventurers who are overrunning our beautiful country? I pronounce for annexation to France or England." To this speech General Mariano G. Vallejo— a native Californian — replied as follows : "I cannot, gentlemen, coincide in opinion with the military and civil functionaries who have advocated the cession of our coimtry to France or England. It is most true that to rely any longer upon Mexico to govern and defend us would be idle and absurd. To this extent I fully agree with my distinguished colleagues. It is true that we possess a noble country, every way calculated, from position and resources, to become great and powerful. For that very reason I would not have her a mere dependence upon a foreign monarchy, naturally alien, or at least indifferent to our interests and our wel- fare. . . . Even could we tolerate the idea of dependence, ought we to go to distant Europe for a master? What possible lOO THE GOLDEN STATE. sympathy could exist between us and a nation separated from us by two vast oceans ? But waiving this insuperable objection, how could we endure to come under the dominion of a monarch? . . We are republicans. Badly governed and badly situated as we are, still we are all, in sentiment, republicans. So far as we are gov- erned at all, we at least profess to be self-governed. Who, then, that possesses true patriotism, will consent to subject himself and children to the caprices of a foreign king and his official minions ? . . . Our position is so remote, either by land or sea, that we are in no danger from a Mexican invasion. Why, then, should we hesitate still to assert our independence? We have, indeed, taken the first step by electing our own governor ; but another remains to be taken. I will mention it plainly and distinctly • it is annexation to the United States. In contemplating this consummation of our destiny, I feel nothing but pleasure, and I ask you to share it. Discarr't old prejudices, disregard old customs, and prepare for the gloriots change which awaits our country. Why should we shrink from incorporating ourselves with the happiest and freest nation in the world, destined soon to be the most wealthy and powerful? Why should we go abroad for protection, when this great nation is our adjoining neighbor? When we join our fortune to hers, we shall not become subjects, but fellow-citizens, possessing all the rights of the people of the United States, and choosing our own federal and local rulers. We shall have a stable government and just laws. California will grow strong and flourish, and her people will be prosperous, happy, and free. Look not, therefore, with jealousy upon the hardy pioneers, who scale our mountains and cultivate our unoccupied plains ; but rather welcome them as brothers, who come to share with us a common destiny." From this period General Vallejo and his friends took active measures for the annexation of CaHfornia to the United States. The general still resides in Cali- fornia, his native State, of which he is a loyal and honored citizen. THE OLD MISSION CHURCH AND OUT BUILDINGS, SAN I'RANCISCO. (Founded in 1776.) GENERAL VIEW OX THE QUICKSILVER WORKS AT NEW ALMADEN. (Santa Clara County, California.) '» COMMODORE STOCKTON'S PROCLAMATION. lOI CHAPTER VII. Feud between Sloat and Fremont — Commodore Stockton in com- mand : his proclamation — Departure of Sloat — Castro, Pico, and Flores oppose the Americans — Stockton warns Castro of his peril — Flores' proclamation to his countrymen — Fir.al surrender of rhe Mexicans — Treaty of peace concluded — Strif^p between Commo- dore Stockton and General Kearney — Fremont appointed Mili- tary Governor — Stockton takes his departure — Fremont ousted — General Kearney and Commodore Shubrick in command — Colonel Mason supersedes General Kearney — General Kearney proceeds to Washington — His ill-treatment of Fremont — Fremont arrested and carried to Fortress Monroe — Court-martialled — Discharged from arrest by order of the President — Nominated for the Presidency. The occupation of California by Commodore Sloat and the promulgation of his proclamation was official notice to the world that the territory of California was the property of the United States. This at once ended all effort or design of England or France to possess themselves of the country, and their fleets on the coast quietly withdrew. Notwithstanding that Fremont had confronted Castro, and had defended the Americans in the Sacramento valley, and had been appointed governor at Sonoma, and proclaimed California a part of the American Union before Sloat had entered and taken possession of Mon- terey, he found himself superseded by the commodore, who, now in the military occupation of the country, commanded Fremont to report to him, and demanded in no mild terms by what authority he was acting. Fre- mont, chagrined and disappointed, answered, "Upon my own authority." This was thought most presump- tuous on the part of the young captain of the corps of 102 THE GOLDEN ^TATE. topographical engineers, who had no military authority from his government. But Fremont had to succumb to the superior position of the commodore, who now assumed the duties of military governor. Fremont was now at Monterey at the head of his battalion, chafing with the mortification inflicted upon him .by Sloat. The commodore, under his proclama- tion of July 7, was in supreme command, but ill-health prompted him to return home. On the 15th of July, 1847, Commodore Stockton, on board the United States frigate Co7igress, arrived at Monterey. Sloat turned over his cbmmand to Stock- ton, who imniediately assumed command as Military Governor of California ; and, on the 28th of July, he issued the following proclamation : ** On assuming the command of the ibices of the United States on the coast of California, both by sea and land, I rind myself in possession of the ports of Monterey and San Francisco, with daily reports from the interior of scenes of rapine, blood, and murder. Three inoffensive American residents of the country have within a few days been murdered in a most bnital manner ; and there are no Californian officers who will arrest and bring the murderers to justice, although it is well known who they are and where they are. I must, therefore, and will, as soon as I can, adopt such measu. 3 as may seem best calculated to bring these criminals to justice, and to bestow peace and good order on the country. " In the first place, however, I am constrained by every principle of national honor, as well as a due regard for the safety and best interests of the people of California, to put an end, at once and by force, to the lawless depredations committed by General Castro's men upon the persons and property of peaceful and unoffending inhabitants. "I cannot, therefore, confine my operations to the quiet and undisturbed possession of the defenceless ports of Monterey and San Francisco, whilst the people elsewhere are suffering from law- less violence; but will immediately march against these boasting fro] hie bo£ Di( the COMMODORE STOCKTON'S PROCLAMATION. 103 and abusive chiefs, (who have not only violated every principle of national hospitality and good faith towards Captain Fremont and his sur\'eying party, but who, unless driven out, will, with the aid of the hostile Indians, keep this beautiful country in a constant state of revolution and bloodshed,) as well as against all others who may be found in arms aiding and abetting General Castro. "The present general of the forces of California is an usurper; has been guilty of great oifences; has impoverished and drained the country of almost its last dollar; and has deserted his post now when most needed. He has deluded and deceived the inhabitants of California, and they wiih his expulsion from the country. He came into power by rebellion and force, and by force he must be expelled. Mexico appears to have been compelled, from time to time, to abandon California to the mercies of any wicked man who could muster one hundred men in arms. The distances from the capital are so great that she cannot, even in times of great distress, send timely aid to the inhabitants; and the lawless depredations upon their persons and property go invariably unpunished. She cannot or will not punish or control the chieftains who, one after the other, have defied her power and kept California in a constant state of revolt and misery. "The inhabitants are tired and disgusted with this constant suc- cession of military usurpers, and this insecurity of life and property. They invoke my protection. Therefore v jOXi them I will not make wai. I require, however, all officers, civil and military, and all other persons, to remain quiet at their respective homes and stations, and to obey the orders they may receive from me or by my author- ity ; and if they do no injury or violence to my authority, none will be done to them." Commodore Sloat, on the 23d of July, sailed home on the Levant^ leaving Stockton in full command, who immediately organized a battalion of mounted riflemen ; and Fremont, who could not even receive a recognition from Sloat, was appointed major, and, at the head of his corps of one hundred and sixty men, embarked on board the United States sloop-of-war Cyane for San Diego, to quell a strong opposition organized against the American occupation of the country, headed by 104 THE GOLDEN STATE. General Castro, Governor Pico, and Don Jc"-^ Marld Flores, whose forces, until January i6, 1847, demanded all the energy and vigilance of Stockton, General Kearney, Fremont, and Gillespie, to hold them in sub- jection. The final overthrow of this opposition, ex- tending over a vast territory, deprived of every means of transportation, with only about three hundred men against twelve huridred or fifteen hundred well-mounted and most expert cavalry of the enemy, reflects in its details the highest credit upon the bravery, skill, and fidelity of John C. Fremont, Commodore Stockton, and their officers and men. The bulletins and proclamations issued by the con- tending parties were often of an exciti' j^ and belliger- ent tone ; a few samples of which are here given. Commodore Stockton, on leaving Monterey to chas- tise Castro, said, in one of his proclamations : " Imme- diately march against the boasting and abusive chiefs, who had not only violated every principle of national hospitality and good faith toward Captain Fremont, but who, unless driven out, would keep this beautiful country in a constant state of revolution and blood- shed, as well as against all others who might be found in arms aiding and abetting General Castro." And again : " Tell Castro he must unconditionally surrender, or experience my vengeance." The following proclamation, issued by Flores, will show how tenaciously some at least of the native Cali- fornians opposed American occupation of California : *^ Mexican Army, Section of Operations, "ANGELEr, October x, 1846. " Fellcw-Citizens : It is a month and a half that, by lament- able fatality, fruit of the cowardice and inability of the first author- FLORES' PROCLAMATION. 105 ities of the department, we behold ourselves subjugated and op- pressed by an insignificant force of adventurers of the United States of America, and placing us in a worse condition than that of slaves. • " They are dictating to us despotic and arbitrary laws, and load- ing us with contributions and onerous burdens, which have for an object the ruin of our industry and agriculture, and to fon-:e us to abandon our property, to be possessed and divided amorg them- selves. "And shall we be capable to allow ourselves to be subjugated, and to accept, by our silence, the weighty chains of slavery ? Shall we permit to be lost the soil inherited from our fathers, which cost them so much blood and so many sacrifices? Shall we make our families victims of die most barbarous slavery? Shall we wait to see our wives violated — our innocent children punished by the American whips — our property sacked — our temples profaned — and, lastly, to drag through an existence full of insult and shame? No ! a thousand times no ! Countrymen, first death ! "Who of you does not feci his heart beat with violence, who does not feel his blood boil, to contemplate our situation ? And who will be the Mexican who will not feel indignant, and who Avill not rise to take up arms to destroy our oppressors ? We believe there is not one so vile and cowardly. With such a motive the majority of the inhabitants of the districts, justly indignant against our tyrants, raise the cry of war, with arms in their hands, and of one accord swear to sustain the following articles : " I. We, the inhabitants of the Department of California, as members of the great Mexican nation, declare that it is and has been our wish to belong to her alone, free and independent. " 2. Consequently the authorities intended and named by the invading forces of the United States are held null and void. " 3. All the North Americans being enemies of Mexico, we swear not to lay down our arms till they are expelled from the Mexican territory. "4. All Mexican citizens, from the age of fifteen to sixty, who do not take up arms to forward the present plan, are declared traitors, and under pain of death. " 5. Every Mexican or foreigner who may directly or indirectly aid the enemies of Mexico will be punished in the same manner. "6. The property of the North Americans in the department, I 1 i io6 THE GOLDEN STATE. who may directly or indirectly have taken part with or aided the enemies, shall be confiscated, and used for the expenses of the war, and their persons shall be taken to the interior of the republic. "7. All those who may oppose the present plan will be punished with arms. " 8. All the inhabitants of Santa Barbara and the district of the north will be invited immediately to adhere to the present plan. "Jose Ma. Flores. ••Camp in Angeles, September 24, 1846." On the 1 6th day of January, 1847, ^^^ war waged by the Californians under Castro, Pico, and Flores was brought to a close by the flight of Flores to Mexico, and the capitulation of Castro, Pico, and their forces to Fremont. Commissioners were appointed on both sides to arrange terms of peace. The Californians acknowledged the supreme authority of the Americans, and the Americans promised protection of life and property to all Californians and Mexicans of every class and condition, regardless of former acts of hos- tility. All prisoners on both sides were released, pa- roles cancelled, and all parties to stand upon an equal footing whilst submissive to the authority of the United States. This treaty, concluded by Fremont while his two superiors, Commodore Stockton and General Kear- ney, were in the face of the enemy but a few miles distant, was a bold and presumptuous act, at once defi- ant and destructive of the official dignity of his supe- riors. But a victory so easily won, and so effectually ending a strife carried on under most unfavorable cir- cumstances by the Americans, and at once placing the flag of the republic in triumph over so vast a field, was not to be despised ; and the good sense of Stockton and Kearney led them to accede to the situation, leav- ing to Fremont the laurels so boldly won. The Amer- TREATY OF SETTLEMENT. 107 ican conquest was complete, and the war in California at an end. Fremont, on the i6th day of January, 1847, signing himself " Military Commandant of California," approved the treaty, which was signed on the part of the Amer- icans by Major P. B. Reading, Colonel W. H. Russell, and Captain Louis McLean; and on the part of the Californians by Jose Antonio Carrillo, Augustine Oli- vera, and Andres Pico, "Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the National Forces of California." Now came a serious conflict of rank and jurisdiction between General Kearney and Commodore Stockton ; Kearney claiming that his instructions from Washington, to take charge of California and establish a govern- ment, placed him in authority as military governor, and the superior of both Fremont and Stockton. Stockton had taken possession of the country, and was acting as military governor before Kearney arrived in the country, and claimed to rank Kearney. Fremont de- cided to report to Stockton, which he did on his enter- ing Los Angeles, on January 14, 1847. On the i6th, two days later, Stockton appointed Fremont Military Governor, and W. H. Russell Secretary, of the new Territory. Stockton in a few days departed from the port of San Pedro for the coast of Mexico. Fremont now found himself comfortably enjoying the dignity of governor, and the title of the conqueror of California. But there was trouble ahead little dreamed of. General Kearney was chafing at the indignity offered him by Fremont reporting to Stock- ton, and at Stockton placing Fremont as Military Governor of the Territory, and was determined to be revenged. loS THE GOLDEN STATE. • Kearney departed ^^-^r Monterey. Here he found Commodore Shubrick, on board the United States ship of war Independence. Kearney and Shubrick were now in possession of official authority from their govern- ment, appointing the former Military Governor of Cali- fornia, and the latter supervisor of customs, port charges, and naval affairs. On the ist day of March, 1847, these two, officials made a joint proclamation, setting forth their official positions, and forwarded a copy of the document to Governor Fremont, whose brief gu- bernatorial star of less than two months was eclipsed forever. Kearney, from this date, entered upon the duties of his new office as Military Governor of California. Fremont, aware of the official authority by which Kearney was acting, obeyed the orders of his new superior; but the officers and men of Fremont's battal- ion, and indeed the whole native population, felt so indignant at what they conceived to be ^n outrage per- petrated on Fremont, that there was much danger of another outbreak. Important events were now transpiring with great rapidity. Colonel Mason had arrived from Washington with instructions to relieve General Kearney, assume military command, and relieve Fremont from .all con- nection with the army, allowing him either to pursue his explorations northward or to join his regiment and obey the commands of the new military governor. Here ended the two months military reign of General Kearney, who, on the igth of June, 1847, started on his journey overland to Washington, compelling the ill-treated Fremont to turn over to another his survey- ing instruments, sold all the horses he had collected, OFFICIAL FEUDS. ;09 refused him permission to join his (Kearney's) regi- ment, and obliged him to follow in the wake of his (Kearney's) trail across the plains, and to encamp at night never more than one mile from Kearney. This was a most humiliating position, but Fremont was obeying the orders of his superior officer. Kearney was determined to crush him, and at Fort Leavenworth Fremont was arrested, carried to Fortress Monroe, where a court-martial found him guilty of disobedience mutinous and disorderly conduct, and sentenced him to forfeit his commission. President Polk, however, ap- proving the findings and decisions, discharged Fremont from arrest, and requested him to report for duty ; but Fremont, regarding the whole situation as an outrage and an insult, resigned his commission, and returned to private life: not to be forgotten, however, for the majority of the people of the country considered him the pioneer conqueror of California, and a much-abused man, and, in respect of his eminent service, and the sympathy consequent upon a real or supposed perse- cution, he was placed at the head of the ticket for President of the United States by the Republicans in 1857, when- he received 1,341,514 of the popular vote to 1,832,232 by Buchanan, the successful Democratic candidate. no THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER VIII. Colonel Mason and General Riley in command of the government of California — End of the Mexican war — Acquisition of Texas and New Mexico —Treaty between the United States and Mexico — Boundary established — Convention to frame a State Constitu- tion meets at Monterey — California admitted into the Union—- Treaty between England and the United States defining western boundary — Claims of Portugal to California — Claims of Spain — Pope Alexander VI settles the dispute — Treaty between Spain and Portugal-^A bull from the Pope — Chain of title to California — Speech of Hon. Thomas H. Benton on the boundary question — Treaty stipulations — Rulers under Spanish, Me?xican, and United States governments in California — English, French, and American Consuls in California. Colonel Richard B, Mason, who succeeded General Kearney as Military Governor of California, assumed command on the 31st of May, 1847, ^^^ continued in office until the 13th day of April, 1849 ; when he was succeeded by General Bennet Riley, who entered upon the office of military governor, under whose administra- tion affairs were conducted until California was admitted as a State into the Union, on the 9th of September, 1850. The war between the United States and Mexico, which began by the battle of Palo Alto, on the 8th of May, 1846, and ended with the fall of the city of Mexico, on the 14th of September> 1847, ^"d which secured to the United States Texas and New Mexico, afforded little opportunity for the government to quell disturb- ances or establish a government in the then inaccessi- ble land of California. At the close of the Mexican war, a treaty was entered into between the United States and Mexico, defining DENNISON'S exchange and the I'ARKER HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO. (Before the Fire of December 1849. Parker House rented for #120,000 a year in 1849. ISLAND AND COVE OF YERBU BURNA, IN 1847, (City of San Francisco built on the Cnvc ) th. a 1 th( of the we the • • JOI Pac in pay the cou; forn Stat Feb 184^ and and and M> tinue lamal stitut on M adopt 1849. procla consti ernor fornia, of a ci Septer MILITARY RULE IN CALIFORNIA. Ill the southern boundary of the United States, and ceding a vast portion of the northern territory of Mexico. By the terms of this treaty, the line dividing the republic of Mexico and the United States was declared to be the Rio Grande, to the thirty-second parallel ; thence westward along the southern line of New Mexico to the Gila river; thence following that stream until it joined the Rio Colorado; thence westward to the Pacific ocean south of San Diego about one league, and in latitude thirty-two and a-half; the United States paying fifteen million dollars to Mexico, and adopting the claims of citizens of the United States against that country. This treat)', ceding New Mexico and Cali- fornia, and defining the southern boundary of the United States, was dated at the city of Guadalupe Hidalgo, February 2, 1848; exchanged at Queretaro, May 30, 1848; ratified by the United States, March 16, 1848; and officially proclaimed by the President, July 4, 1848; and thus the title of the United States to New Mexico and California was complete. Meantime, General Riley, as military governor, con- tinued to rule California. On June 3, he issued a proc- lamation calling a State Convention to frame a con- stitution. The convention assembled at Monterey, on Monday, September i, 1849. The constitution was adopted October 10, 1849, ^"^^ ratified November 13, 1 849. On the 20th of December, 1 849, General Riley proclaimed the election of the new governor under the constitution, and resigned his posidon as military gov- ernor ; and, by act of the United States Congress, Cali- fornia, without going through the probationary stages of a civil territorial government, was, on the 9th day of September, 1850, admitted into the Union. 112 THE GOLDEN STATE, During the early part of the conquest of California, the western boundary of the whole American posses- sions was undefined, and a source of danger between England and the United States; but happily, on the 15th of June, 1846, a treaty was concluded between the two nations, confirming the western boundary of the American republic, and also confirming the title of the United States to the Territory of Oregon, the boundary line being "the forty-ninth degree of latitude from the Stony mountains west to the middle of the channel which separates Vancouver island from the continent ; thence southerly through the middle of the channel and to Fuca straits to the Pacific ocean." The more fully to define and illustrate to the roader the origin of the legal Spanish and American titles to California, and to understand the chain of titles, let it be remembered that the Portuguese, previous to the discovery of America by Columbus in 1492, had dis- covered the Azore islands, i } longitude thirty-one west ; in consequence of which, all ^he discoveries made by Columbus were claimed 10 belong to the crown of Portugal, and that Spain had no title to them and that her subjects should be excluded from these possessions. This proposition was rejected by Spain. The dispute upon the right of possession between Spain and Por- tugal to these countries was referred to Pope Alexander VI — the law of nations and the adopted law of the world then recognizing the pope as the ultimate source of all temporal power. He was king of kings, making and unmaking them and their possessions at will, with- out, recourse upon the part of the dethroned. The origin and source of all landed titles was -conceded to be in his infallible holiness. 7777;^ TO CALIFORNIA. 113 On the 3cl day of May, A. D. 1493, the pope rendered his decision between the crowns of Spain and Portugal. By his decree, all countries inhabited by infidels, already discovered by or which might be discovered by the Spanish, west of one hundred leagues west of the Azores, he granted to Spain ; and all lying east of that line to Portugal. In 1494, a treaty between the Kings of Spain uid Portugal moved this boundary two hun- dred and seventy leagues further west. The bounda- ries thus established continued to be respected by all nations; and, when an infringement of it was attempted through the avarice of King Henry VII of England, who attempted to possess himself of a portion of the terri- tory granted to Spain, a bull from his holiness the pope caused him to abandon his designs. Thus it will be seen that the chain of title to California was, first, by the discoveries of Spain and Portugal ; then by the decree and division by Pope Alexander granting it to Spain ; from Spain to Mexico by revolution ; from Mexico by conquest and treaty to the United States. In conjunction and illustration of the foregoing his- tory of American title and claim to the northern boun- dary of the republic, the following extracts from a speech delivered in the United States Senate, on the 1 2th day of January, 1843, by the Hon. Thomas H. Benton, may serve a good purpose. Mr. Benton, speaking upon the northern boundary question, said: " — The treaties of 1803 and 1819; the former with France, by which we acquired Louisiana; the latter with Spain, by which we acquired all her rights on the northwest coast of America north of forty-two degrees. By the first of these treaties we became a party to the tenth article of the treaty of Utrecht between France and 114 THE GOLDEN STATE. \l England, the treaty of peace of 17 14, which terminated the wars of Queen Anne and Louis XIV, and settled all their differences of every kind in Europe and America, and undertook to prevent the recurrence of future differences between them. The tenth article of this treaty applied to their settlements and territories in North America, and directed commissioners to be appointed to mark and define their possessions. These commissioners did their work. They firew a line from ocean to ocean, to separate tlie French an,d British dominions, and to prevent further encroachments and col- lisions. This line began on the coast of Labrador, and followed a course slightly southwest to the centre of Nor^h America, leaving the British settlements of Hudson bay to the north, and the French Canadian possessions to the south. This line took for a landmark the Lake of the Woods, which was then believed to be due east from the head of t'l : Mississippi ; and from that point took the forty-ninth parallel of latitude indefinitely to the west. The langut"'e is ^indefinitely;^ and this established the northern boundary of Louisiana, and erected a wall beyond which future French settle- ments could not cross to the north nor British to the south. "As purchasers of Louisiana, the treaty of 1803 made us a party to the tenth article of the treaty of Utrecht, and made the forty-ninth , parallel the same to us and the British which it had been to the French and the British : it became a wall which neither party could pass, so far as it depended upon that lino." California, from her permanent occupation by Spain and the establishment of her rule in 1767, to 1822 — a term of fifty-five years — had ten Governors. Under twenty-four years of Mexican rule — from 1822 to 184.6 . — she had thirteen governors; and under the American military rule of four years — from July 7, 1846, to Sep- tember 9, 1850 — had six military governors. But three nations had :ippointed consuls in Caiifor lia previous to the American occupation of the coui try. In 1843, Thomas O. Larkin, an American, who an ived in California in 1836, was appointed United Sates consul which office he held until July 7, 1846, when CONSULS IN CALIFORNIA. I'S Commodore Sloat took possession of the country in the name of the United States. In 1844, James A. Forbes was appointed the first consul from Great Britain, which office he still held at the time of the American occupation. In May, 1845, Don Louis Gas- quet was appointed French consul, which office he held until 1847, when he was succeeded by M. Movenhaut. All these officers resided at the Mexican capital of the Territory, Monterey. 1 ii6 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER IX. California under American rule — Population in 1842 and 1845 — Arrival of Mormons at San Francisco — Population in 1848 — In 1870 — Composition of population of San Francisco in 1842 — Establishment of Mission Dolores — First house built in San Fran- cisco — First child born — Hudson Bay Company at San Francisco — First newspaper in California — First school — First Protestant minister — First Protestant chv.rch — First steamboat — Discovery of gold — Sutter and Marshall — First mining — Rush to the mines — Official notice of the gold discovery — Early gold-seekers — Advent of the Chinese. No sooner was California in the possession of the Americans, and the Hag of the republic waving its pro- tecting folds over the land, than new life was infused into every branch of commerce, trade, and industry ; and the Spanish, Mexicans, and Indians began to seek seclusion or oblivion before the march of the invader, who laughed at the tame realities of life, so soon to give place to scenes of commercial enterprise, industry, speculation, and wild excitement hitherto unknown in the annals of history. The total white population of California, in 1845, ^s estimated to have been about eight thousand. During the years 1 846 and 1 847, considerable emigration had found its way from Oregon, over the Rocky mountains, and by sea. On the 31st of July, 1846, the ship Brooklyn, from New York, with about two hundred and thirty Mor- mons, under the leadership of Samue^ Brra\niiri, jrrived at San Francisco, with the intention of foiinding r /Tor- mon settlement. At the beginning of 1848. it was estimated that the '-?:t^; SUTTER S MILL, WHERE MARSHALL niSCOVERED THE ITRST GOLD IN CALIFORNIA, JANUARY I9, 1848. 1 TRONT STRFFT. SArRAMFNl 1 riTY, l8^0. rli V a a F P b( y( of si: m m ea ha un me fro Mi cis( sig Ye Frs was 4th a sr whii chil( cisc( dep( whic San fifty- twer fenij] POPULATION OF CALIFORNIA. 117 whole white population of California, of all nations, was about fourteen thousand. At this period (1870) it is about six hundred thousand. The population of San Francisco, in 1842, was only one hundred and ninety-six persons — seventy-six men, forty-two women, forty-two boys, and thirty-six girls. The census taken in this year gives the name, age, birthplace, sex, and occupation of each person, in which there were in all but twenty- six foreigners, as follows : ten Amei leans, four English- men, four Sandwich Islanders, two Germans, two Irish- men, and of Manilla, Peru, France, and Scotland, one each. No lawyers, insurance agents, dentists, tailors, hatters, dressriakers, real estate agents, doctors, or undertakers appear in the list. The marked improve- ment and growth of San Francisco continued steadily from the date of the American conquest Although the Mission Dolores (now in the city limits of San Fran- cisco) was established in 1776, there was not a solitary sign of life or settlement about the bay or beach of Yerba Buena cove, now the heart of the city of San Francisco, until 1835, when a tent made of old sails was erected by Captain W. A. Richardson. On the 4th of July of the following year, Jacob P. Leese erected a small frame building adjoining Richardson's house, in which was born, April 15, 1838, Rosalie Leese, the first child born at Yerba Buena, (good herb,) now San Fran- cisco, and the city was started. At this point, a small depot of the Hudson Bay Company was established, which, however, disappeared in 1846. In January, 1847, San Francisco had a population of four hundred and fifty-nine persons of all classes — three hundred and twenty-nine males and one hundred and thirty-eight females : of these three hundred and seventy-five were t \ \ ii8 THE GOLDEN STATE. whites, thirty-four Indians, forty Sandwich Islanders, and ten negroes — eighty-four colored. The whites represented the following nations : United States, two hundred and twenty-eight; California, thirty-eight; Mexico, two ; Canada, five ; Chili, two ; England, twenty-two ; Germany, twent)^-seven ; France, three ; Ireland, fourteen ; Scotland, fourteen ; Switzerland, six; at sea, four ; and of New Holland, New Zealand, Malta, Denmark, Peru, Russia, Poland, Sweden, and West Indies, one each. At this period the trades and pro- fessions were beginning to be represented : a minister, a schoolmaster, two surveyors, three lawyers, and three doctors represented the professions ; many of the trades were represented. A weekly nev-jpaper, published by Samuel Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones, called the California Star, was the first newspaper published in San Francisco ; but as early as August 15, 1846, Messrs. Colton and Semple had started the Califoifiian — the first paper published in California — at Monterey. In May, 1847, this journal was transferred to San Francisco. San Francisco was fast assuming a city appearance. In March, 1848, it contained two hundred houses, and a population of eight hundred and fift}'^ souls. A public school — the first in California — had been opened on the 3d of April, 1848, by Thomas Douglas. On November 15, 1848, the first steamer ever upon the waters of San Francisco bay — a small boat taken from Sitka by Cap- tain Leidesdorff — madf a trial trip around the bay. In October, 1848, the first Protestant church in California was established by Rev. T. D wight Hunt at San Fran- cisco. Mr. Hunt was a Presbyterian minister, who came from the Sandwich islands, and was the first Prot- toCai DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 119 estant minister in California. There was no regular church organization : Mr. Hunt preached in the school- house,, Although the first gold had been discovered by James W. Marshall, at Sutter's mill, on the American river, as early as the 19th of January, 1848, no news of the fact had reached San Francisco until February following, vv'hen the crash came which sent its echo throughout the world, and drew within the circle of California people of every part of the globe. The great event which brought the almost unknown and distant land of Cali- fornia to the notice of the world, and produced In so brief a period such scenes of excitement and commer- cial advantages, was the discovery of gold. In the fall of 1847, Captain John A. Sutter, a Swiss by birth, and a man of great adventure and many ster- ling; qualities, who arrived in San Francisco July 2, 1839, and located in the following year at Neiu Helvetia, near Sacramento, was erecting a saw-mill at a place called Coloma, about fifty miles east of Sacramento City, on the American river, which empties into the Sacramento. James W. Marshall had contracted for the erecting of the mill, and he and his men were at work in cutting and widening the tail-race: to effect this, he let the water of the river through the cut, which in its course carried away quantities of earth and sand. In cleaning portions of this away, Marshall observed some particles of yellow glittering substance: these he examined through curiosity. This was on the 19th day of Janu- ary, 1848. A piece of gold, weighing about six penny- weights, was carried by Marshall, in about two weeks, to Captain Sutter, who examined it without much belief i 1 I20 THE GOLDEN STATE. of its value. Much doubt of its being gold still rested among all who saw the "stuff;" and Sutter seems to have regarded Marshall as insane when he insisted tliat it was gold. In February following, specimens of the new discovery- were carried to San Francisco. Here an old Georgian gold-miner — Isaac Humphrey — saw it, and at sight pronounced it gold, and at once prepared to start for the new gold-fields. His persuasions failed to induce any of his friends to accompany him : they laughed at the idea, so he was compelled to start alone ; and, on the 7th of March, 1848, reached the place of discovery. The news had now spread among the workmen and others in the vicinity of the discovery of " some curious yellow stuff." Humphrey, on March 8, commenced prospecting, and soon confirmed his belief of the nature of the discovery. Soon the workmen abandoned the sawing of the lumber and erecting of the mill, and plunged into the new labor, now paying from five to fifty dollars per day to the hand. Through the spring and summer of 1848, the news of the discovery reached San Francisco and every hamlet in California and Ore- gon, and the excitement became intense; and from every direction the pilgrims wended their way to the new Mecca — the gold-fields. The scattering popula- tion of the valleys caught up the excitement: wild stories of fabulous discoveries had reached them : fields of standing grain were left to fall to the ground ; cattle, farms, wives, and children, all abandoned. The news continued to spread. Quantities of the precious metal were in the hands of miners, reporting that all could make from ten to one hundred dollars a day ; in some JAMKS W. MARSHALL, DISCOVKRER OF CJOLU IN CALIKOKMa, JANUAKV I9, 1S48' ! i "HONF5T miners" GOINU HOME, IN I850. ¥ SURFACE GOLD MINING IN CALIFORNIA IN 1 849. INTERIOR t)F TIIK " LL DORADO," GAMnLING HOISF.. (On Keamey Street facing the Plaza, in »?<;;.., I RUSH FOR THE GOLD MINES. 121 cases, many thousands. This was too much. Who could endure it? A dollar and a dollar and a-half per day were the wages of laborers and mechanics at San Francisco. It was only one hundred and twenty miles up the river to Sacramento, and from there a few miles to the mines. All hands — the schoolmaster, butcher, baker, lawyer, doctor, and merchant — started up the Sacramento river. The whole village was on the march : only the few women and children remained. The two n^vspaper offices closed : even the devil was amongst them, as some of them fully realized before they got through. Oregon's sturdy settlers made their long pilgrimage from the north, over snow-capped moun- tains and lonely deserts. Up from the lower portion of the State came the native Californian mounted on his faithful steed, the half-breed, and the Indian. Now from Mexico came the miner, vaquero, and desperado. Up from Chili and Peru came the speculator, gambler, and courtesan. Over the Rocky mountains came the long lines of the emigrant trains, working their tedious march over almost precipitous mountains ci ternal snows and arid deserts of alkali and quicksands, leaving behind them the new-made grave, and the bleaching bones of their famished and overburdened brutes, to tell the sad story of their weary journey, and to mark the path of the future traveller over the sandy deserts of the Humboldt. The few vessels that could find sailors to take them from the coast spread the news wherever they touched. The Inhabitants of the lonely and unfrequented islands of the seas heard the glad tidings of the land of gold. Qfficial announcement was made of the rich dis- 'i I- 122* THE GOLDEN STATE. coveries in the halls of Congress; and, as the news spread through the American republic, the people seemed spell-bound and charmed — maddened to em- brace the element of social power. The peculiar men- tal and physical temperament of the American, his activity, and excitability, well fitted him to become the subject of what now assumed the form of a painful disease. No class was exempt from the ravages of the new mania ; so, from Maine to the Mississippi, occupa- tions were abandoned ; the judge, lawyer, doctor, mer- chant, banker, mechanic, farmer, mariner, and laborer bade adieu to startled friends, hurriedly kissed weeping wife and child, bade them farewell, and across the plains, over the Isthmus, around the Horn, joined the hurrying throng, bound for California. From England, Germany, France, Russia, and Spain, came the gold-seeker. Australia and Van Dieman's Land let loose their penal colonists. The islands of the sea sent forth their strange-looking inhabitants of various hues, complexions, and tongues. The Turk and the Greek joined in the throng. From across the deep sea came a strange people, the seal of whose national exclusivenes«i had never been broken until touched by the magic shock of gold in the sands and hills of the new world. They were a peculiar people. The similarity of physical organization, the long, coarse, black hair braided in a solitary cue behind, with shaven crown, almond eye, yellow face, and mechanical, meas- ured step, told of a race whose primeval order had never been disturbed by any other branch of the human family. Their strange and inharmonious voice and un- known tongue seemed to startle the most stoical of all EARLY GOLD HUNTERS. 123 the races of men, whilst their singular costume gave them more the appearance of beings of another sphere than the inhabitants of earth. In silent, sullen mood with all mankind, and without knowing the sound of a voice of any of the many nationalities with whom they were to associate, or being able to convey either by word or gesture a single thought, want, or idea to any save their own race, they, v/ith their kettles, rice, hea- then gods, and chop-sticks, joinec^ in the ever-lengthen- ing procession of strange-looking beings, and set their face towards the reputed land of gold. ! 124 VHE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER X. Population of California in 1849 — Rush to the mines — Gold yield of 1848 — Population and scenes of San Francisco in 1849 — Ships for California — Overland emigration — Across the Isthmus — Arrival of first steamer — Commerce in 1849 — Occupations of the people — Gray-shirt brigade — Ships at a discount — Up the Sacra- mento river — Early disappointments — Gambling — Gold product — Gold excitements — Honesty of the "forty-niners" — Lynch law — Prices in the mines — Cultivation of the soil — Cattle — Et,^s — Fruit — All "going home in the spring" — Indians in the mines — Yankee speculators — Suffering and disappointments in the mints — Miners going home. The year 1849 ^^ a period ever memorable in the history of California; and there are few portions of the civilized globe which cannot find among its inhabitants those who can date from that year the departure of dear friends bound for California whose faces they have never again beheld. The excitement of the gold discovery in 1848 had, up to January i, 1849, more than doubled the popula- tion of California. At this period the total population was estimated at twenty-six thousand — thirteen thou- sand natives, eight thousand Americans, and five thou- sand of all other nations. During the year 1848, ten million dollars in gold had been extracted from the mines, principally from the Yuba, Feather, and Ameri- can rivers, and the gulches thereabout; the rocker, shovel, prospeccing-pan, and crevice-knife, being the only machinery employed. In San Francisco and throughout the country the excitement was intense, but, up to the spring of 1849, it was confined to the small population on the coast, most of whom had been in California for many years. ■p'TPiif'-: I SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849. -i^-"!*^^ CELEBRATINC. THK FIRST FOWRTH OF JULY, AT THE FIRST IKWSK IN SAN FRANCISCO, I836. B T P< pa be hu 00 shi the Ma Pa( bei] eag was C -^ the ox-t the] O of tt Calij She New seng( stean Augu Th. nowc being: fewac and s£ EARLY GOLD EXCITEMEN j.:. 125 But, in the spring of 1849, there was a new stimulus. The city of San Francisco, in January, 1849, had a population of two thousand, most of whom were pre- paring to go to the mines when the rainy season would be over. How little did they dream of the flood of human beings to be let loose upon them ! Already the ocean was dotted with sails from every nation of the globe, all heading for distant California. The gallant ship, with impatient crew and passengers, was buffeting the gales of Cape Horn, or seek' ng a passage through Magellan's straits. The trade winds of the North Pacific were bearing before them hordes of strange beings from Asia and the islands of the seas. The eager Yankee, with bowie-knife and revolver attached, was threading the serpentine rse of the miasmatic C. ''gres, or belaboring his stubborn mul'^ through the jungles of the Isthmus; or, by the tedious journey of the plains, following the dusty line of the meandering ox-team, as he anxiously cast his wistful eyes toward the promised land in the direction of the setting "^im. On the 28th of February, 1849, the pioneer steamship of the ocean line of American passenger ships — TJu California — arrived at San Francisco from New Yr v. She was followed by the steamship Oregon trom New York, which, with three hundred and fifty pas- sengers, arrived en the 31st of March following. The steamship Panama, with a load of passengers, arrived August 4. The floodgates of commerce and population were now open, and through them poured a torrent of human beings upon the little village of San Francisco, with its few adobe and frame houses, nestling around the beach and sand-hills. Ships were daily arriving with full car- 126 THE GOLDEN STATE. goes of merchandise : no wharves, warehouses, stores, streets, offices, lumber, or labor were to be had at any price. July, 1849, found the Bay of San Francisco filling with the ships of every nation, and the Golden Gate received a continuous stream of shipping. The flags of every nation, v/ith the peculiar marine architec- ture, customs, costumes, and language of the new- comers, lent a romantic aspect to a scene fearfully wild and disordered, in consequence of the haste and anxiety of all to start for the mines ; for now the most fabulous stories, with the fact of the arrival of millions of dollars in gold-dust, wrought the public mind into a feverish delirium. Five hundred square-rigged vessels lay in the harbor, with half a mile of mud-flats between them and high-water mark — Montgomery street; but one wharf, Broadway, to accommodate this fleet. Agents and consignees of these valuable '^hips and cargoes found the crews (sometimes including officers) take to the small boats as soon as the anchor was dropped, and head for the Sacramento river toward the new diggings. Lighters, scows, and boats had to land these cargoes, but what could be done ? Of the few convey- ances of this character, none could be had but at fabu- lous prices. Laborers, who, a year ago, would have been glad to have received one dollar and a-half a day, now demanded from twenty to thirty dollars. There were no laborers : one rr:an was as i;ood as another — they were "in a free country:" whf- would labor for hire, when he could go to tha mines :md become a millio7i- naire? Still they came: more ships, more people; no room, no lodgings, no lumber, nobody to saw lum- ber ; no forests supposed tc be in the country, nobody thinking 2}oo\iX forests. Carpenters, blacksmiths, team- EARLY GOLD EXCITEMENT. 127 sters, clerks, sailors, or soldiers, as scon as they touched land — all became miners. Ho I for the mines ! The scramble now became powerfully intense : every- body on the run unless stuck in the mud or deep sand. Off came the coats of the merchants, speculators, doc- tors, and preachers, carrying, lugging, wheeling boxes, goods, and boards, erecting tents of canvas and old sails, tin, raw-hides, blankets, and even of body clothing. The stove-pipe hat, black clothes, and white shirt gave way to the slouch-hat and gray shirt. Razors were out of use : no time to shave. Goods selling at any prices : sometimes at rates making a fortune for the owner, again at prices which brought him to the verge of ruin. The sand-hills and mud-flats now presented the ap- pearance of a battle-field : people of every nation, cos- tume, tongue, and clime, in the busy and excited crowd, hauling, running, trading, buying, selling, building, drinking, fretting, cursing, laughing, dancing, weeping, and doing a little of every thing under the sun but praying ; all seemed to flounde" about in supreme reck- lessness. The tailor, shoemaker, and clerk awkwardly pulled at the heavy oar to move the lumbering, freighted scow deserted by the sailors, now on their way to the mines ; the judge sweating and chafing, as with judicial invectives he levied his quo wari'anto upon a refractoiy mule belly-deep in mire, in the legitimate exercise of his hereditary prerogative of backing out of a bad job ; the doctor refusing to see the results of his emetics, and pills cheap at five dollars each. Shovels, boots, blankets, prospecting-pans, butcher-knives, bacon, gray shirts, whiskey, and tobacco were in great demand. Gold sixteen dollars per ounce, weighed on the coffee-scales, or "hefted" in the hand. 123 THE GOLDEN STATE. The first six months of 1 849 added more than fifteen thousand to the population of the country, over ten thou- sand of whom landed in San Francisco : less than two hundred of all this number were women. More ships, more people, more excitement. Splendid ships were left to the mercy of the winds, deserted by all hands. A ship's boat was worth more than a ship, for in the former the crew could make a voyage up the Sacramento river, and thence on foot to the mines. These frail craft, filled with gold-seekers and deeply laden frequently with provisions and tools besides, were headed across the dangerous inland sea of the Bay of San Francisco, and up the Sacramento river, each person armed with some implement of propulsion : the oarsman with oars, passengers with shovels, tin-pans, paddles, pieces of boards, and even the hands and feet served their pur- pose in endeavoring to propel the crazy little concern, often making but little progress, or brought to a stand- still by the excited crew and passengers pulling in op- posite directions — one rowing up stream, another on the other side, or his next companion, laboring in his excitement to drive her down stream. The scenes on the river were often very amusing and ludicrous. Even as early as 1849, it was not all gold that glit- tered ; and many a poor fellow, disheartened, ragged, and forlorn, sought the back track, at least as far as San Francisco, where he could earn regular wages at some honest employment, or enter upon the exciting scenes of the gambling-house, now publicly indulged in by all 'lasses. The up-river parties, on meeting a boat coming down stream, would of course suppose that her crew were returning with a load of gold, and would hurriedly in- EARLY GOLD EXCITEMENT. 129 quire the "news from the mines," receiving an answer that all was right up there — that all they had to do was to go up and fill their bags, generally directing them to some place perhaps never heard of before, or noted for its poverty. In evidence of their own success, they would call the attention of the new-comers to several canvas sacks in the bottom of their boat: these gener- ally were filled with a heavy black sand intended for the eyes of the up-river crews, and only served as bal- last, being worthless. On beholding these bags, the eyes of the up-river crews were frequently seen to start in their sockets; unintelligible sounds were heard to proceed from their throats as they plunged their oars, shovels, pans, dippers, and legs into the water, while heading toward Sacramento. These bags thus afforded some compensation to the difiappointed returning crews. Mining was not confined to the Yuba, American, ?"H Feather rivers, but spread over the entire field of the ravines, gulches, and streams of the foot-hills, and up to the Sierras ; many of the locations yielding immense fortunes of pure gold with but little effort or mechanical appliances. More than forty million dollars were ob- tained in the year 1849; and, from January iq, 1848, the day of the discovery of gold in California, to the beginning of 1870, the gold product of the State has been one billion dollars. (For table and product, see Appendix.) The overland emigration was constantly pouring into the valleys and ravines of the upper country, and here scenes of the wildest excitement prevailed ; sometimes caused by the discovery of rich " pockets " in the rivei beds, or nuggets in the gulches, but oftener by the fabulous reports of waggish or half-crazy "prospect- 9 I30 THE GOLDEN STATE. ers," who, without the least foundation in fact, reported the discovery of " mountains of gold," or lakes whose sands were sparkling yellow ; the location of these "discoveries" generally being sufficiently distant from those receiving the secret to lend a charm to the tale, and to wear out their patience and exhaust both their body and purse before they returned to their starting point ; conscious of their fulfilment of that passage of Scripture which says that "the last condition of that man is worse than the first." Throughout the gulches and ravines, cotton-tent vil- lages sprang up as if in a single night; soon to present scenes of excitement, activity, and industry. Honesty was a virtue with the "forty-niners:" merchandise, tools, provisions, clothing, and gold-dust were secure in and about the tent-doors both day and night ; and not until the floods of adventurers by sea and land poured in did petty thieving commence. There was no time for courts, juries, and lawyers to be occujDied in discovering and punishing offenders: so on discovering a thief he was summoned before a few miners, and, if found guilty, was, without delay, placed upon a mule's back, a rope put about his neck, tied to the limb of some sturdy oak, and ordered to stand up ; the mule received a lash of a whip, and the culprit was left sus- pended : thus ended the career of many an early gold- seeker. Prices in the gold-fields ran beyond all conception. Luxuries were out of the question: if any were offered, they were bought up at once by those who first saw them, without questions. Vegetables and fruits were scarce: no person had time to attend to the cultivation qf the soil : a few apples from Oregon, or from the few EARL Y SCENES IN THE MINES. 131 orchards about the missions, were considered cheap at from one to five dollars apiece. So with produce: eggs were rare indeed, and considered cheap from one to five dollars apiece, regardless of age or quality. Of fresh butter there was not a pound : there were plenty of cattle in the valleys — wild Spanish stock, fast as race-horses and fierce as tigers : who would undertake the subjugation of such animals, milk them, and go through the tedious process of butter-making? Hatch- ing chickens with the hope of eggs at some future date, and planting trees that apples might grow, would have been considered proof positive insanity, had such things been done. All were sojourners, " going home in the spring " or fall, as the case might be, with a for- tune (?) Men with little tents and booths fitted up for the sale of goods suitable for the miners were coin- ing money. Thousands of Indians, sometimes under the leader- ship of whites, or on their own account, worked, often making large amounts, but generally spending at night their day's earnings : whiskey was the first considera- tion with the aborigine, after which lie might indulge in the luxury of a gray shirt, which would constitute his whole costume. The squaws, besides packing all the food and doing all the drudgery for their lords, would gather a little gold, which they would invest in a slouch- hat and gray shirt, and their toilets and wardrobes were complete. These simple children of the forest had not yet learned the value of gold, nor the use or meaning of the scales; so they gave whatever they had, were it much or little, for any article which they might fancy. One Y?nkee, in this way, realized fifty thousand dollars in a few days from two rolls of three- 132 THE GOLDEN STATE. ply carpeting : this he cut up in pieces of two yards each, cut in the centre lengthwise, large enough to admit of the head ; this was bound with braid, and a bunch of ribbon of some fancy color ornamented each end of the cut ; this formed a gaudy garb for both male and female natives, and thus caparisoned, and leaping with joy, they entered upon their new career of fashion. The mines continued steadily to yield their golden wealth. Twenty-five dollars a day might be the average of the miners, still thousands were making hundreds per day ; and thousands, after paying exorbitant prices for every thing, and being " in bad luck," found themselves, after a year's hard labor and deprivation, without a dollar : clothes, health, hopes, all gone ; far from home, dispirited, disappointed, in receipt of letters from wife or fond ones at home making urgent appeals for help, or anxiously imploring their return, reminding them of their promises when leaving home that they would only be absent six months or a year. The latter part of 1849 and the years 1850 and 1S51 found thousands of penniless, downcast miners, return- ing by the steamers to their Eastern homes, or plunging into gambling, dissipation, and vice. Meantime the gold product was still on the increase — forty million dollars being extracted in 1849, fifty million dollars in 1850, and fifty-five million dollars in 1851. Many per- sons, having realized large fortunes, either returned home or entered into business in the growing towns in California. ^_-=^: FIRST PROTESTANT CHURCH IN SAN FRANCISCO — 1S49. (First Presbyterian Church.) m ljJ B L - J^%-^ RUSH TO THE COLD XIINF.S FROM SAN FRANCISCO IN 1848. EARLY GOLD EXCITEMENT, 133 CHAPTER XI. Growing importance of San Francisco — Crime and dissipation- First Vigilance Committee — Law and order — Building a city — Destroyed by fire — Rebuilt — Wild speculation — Strange occupa- tions — Fortune and misfortune — First house built at Sacramento — Population of — Prosperity in business and speculation — Price of land in San Francisco — Rents in San Francisco — Prices of merchandise — Amusements — Board — Labor — Cost of building — Streets paved with merchandise — Gold-hunters still arriving — Largest product of gold — Suicide and death — Only a mining . country — Import of breadstuffs — Literior steam navigation — First river steamer — Fares on the rivers. The nish to the mines from San Francisco, during the years 1849, 1850, and 1851, was unabated still. Streams of immigrants and gold-seekers entered the Golden Gate, though large numbers were returning home. San Francisco continued to be the grand em- porium of commerce. Its harbor was the only port of entry and egress on the entire coast. Here the new- comer learned his first California experience, and here the disappointed miner, the gambler, cutthroat, and courtesan plied their arts. The " Sydney Ducks " and " Hounds " — classes of desperadoes — were ever on the alert for booty. They were a great auxiliary to the reckless land-grabber, who, regardless of law or equity, possessed himself of all property from which he could drive the occupant. These fellows were good as stand- ing witnesses in any case, provided they "could see the color " — that is, were well paid ; good on juries either to acquit their friends or convict their enemies ; loud of mouth, bold in swagger ; could drink more whiskey, chew more tobacco, smoke more cigars, and use more 134 THE GOLDEN STATE. slang phrases and profane language than anybody else; late at the bar-rooms and gambling-houses at night, and late in bed in the morning ; early and often at the polls on election day ; armed always with pistol, bowie- knife, and sword-cane. If some land-iobber wanted a few men, all he had to do was to go to the head-quarters of these gangs, and state that he wanted help : fifty or a hundred dollars apiece would bring a gang, who, with ropes, would drag down the shanty of some unoffending man, who, with fifty pistols at his head, had to surrender his property. These bands often became so bold and defiant that their robberies were celebrated with pro- cessions, banners, and bands of music. These villains were, in the summer of 1849, disbanded by the inter- position of the citizens, who formed a vigilance com- mittee, tried, convicted, and sentenced a number of them. Later in the same year and in 1850, courts were established, and soon wholesome legislation and police regulations began to exert their influence upon a popu- lation which, at best, owing to natural causes, was wild, rash, riotous, and disorderly. The years 1850 and 1851 exhibited great activity and progress in San Francisco ; and although the greater part of the city had been burned for the fourth time, still, Phcenix-like, it rose from the ashes. Wild specu- lation in city lots, merchandise, and lumber had now to a great extent taken the place of the first excitement about the mines. Mud-flats were being filled in, sand- hills levelled, houses built, banks, hotels, restaurants, and stores erected ; employment of all kinds in demand, and thousands ready to do any thing, after their first experience of salt bacon and beans in the gulches and aJi poj in an( EARLY MINING SCENES. 135 mountain ravines, which refused them fortunes. Every distinction in costume, country, trade, and profession was levelled : the gouty judge and nimble tailor were catering to the hungry crowd in the restaurant; the blacksmith sawing lumber ; a dentist shoeing a kicking mustang or slaughtering a bullock ; a butcher keeping a millinery store ; a barber cleaning tripe and making sausages ; a shoemaker shaving at a dollar a head ; a painter digging a gutter ; a horse-doctor building a boat ; a lawyer sawing firewood ; a sailor milking a cow ; a bookkeeper blacking boots ; a jeweller picking chickens or digging clams ; a merchant in the kitchen as cook ; a farmer keeping an assortment store ; an ox-driver painting a sign ; while a sickly-looking clerk shovelled down a sand-hill. All were tradesmen, all were pro- fessional men. Trades or occupations would change with the last job or highest pay. Men who could not succeed left the country in disgust, never to return again ; while their next neighbors, with a fortune, returned to take their families to the land of gold — *' God's best country," as the fortunate ones v/ould call it ; and so it was to many, who, landing upon its shores penniless, were soon able to pay off their debts at home, and place themselves and families in affluence. How different with those who, forming the larger class, either returned home with barely enough to pay their passage, or who, failing in health, hopes, and fortune, have found unknown graves, or still chase the fickle phantom which allured them to a strange land. The State of California kept continually increasing in population and wealth. Cities and villages sprang up in all directions. Sacramento, a barren waste in 1848, and in which the first frame house was erected in 136 THE GOLDEN STATE. January, 1849, had, in the spring of 1850, a population of twelve thousand. Other places of importance, both in the mining and agricultural regions, were springing up. Great life and bustle abounded everywhere ; the gold product was still on the increase ; labor was well re- warded. Fortunes were made in San Francisco, Sacra- mento, and in many of the mountain towns, in a few business operations, or by the constant profits of a small store. Land and rents in San Francisco had mh beyond all precedent: fifty and one hundred vara lots in San Francisco were, as late as 1850, granted by the alcaldes, under the Mexican laws, to persons, on payment of sixteen dollars ; many of these lots, in one or two years, were worth hundreds of thousands of dollars ; and many of the best city blocks now in the citycost their present owners but the above price. Fifty thousand dollars for a lot, which, a few days previous, sold at two or three thousand, was not uncommon. A rude shell of a frame store or cotton tent rented for fabulous prices: for instance, a canvas tent near the plaza — the "El Do- rado" — fifteen by twenty-five feet, rented for forty thousand dollars per annum ; the " Parker House," a common two-story frame building on Kearney street, also near the plaza, brought a yearly rent of one hun- dred and twenty thousand dollars ; a small, rough wood building at the plaza, rented by Wright & Co., brokers, at seventy-five thousand dollars per annum ; a small, one-story rough building, twenty feet front, occupied as a store, rented at forty thousand dollars a year ; and for poor accommodations for the custom house business a rent of seven thousand dollars per month was paid. Some leading articles of commerce were very dear: flour and salt pork, forty dollai:s per barrel; cparse k EARL Y MINING EXPERIENCE. 137 boots, from thirty to one hundred dollars a pair ; v^ages for common labor, one dollar per hour; and mechanics, twelve to twenty dollars a day. Amusements were luxuries : in the circus sixty dollars for a private box, and three dollars in the pit. Board in a hotel, or tent, about eight dollars a day, and from twenty-five to forty dollars per week. Lumber from three hundred to five hundred dollars per thousand. To build a brick house, it was estimated that it would, when finished, and that too in a rough manner, cost a dollar for each brick in the building. Soon vast overstocks of many descriptions of goods glutted the market ; so much so that, rather than pay the exorbitant rents and 'storage necessary, the mud- holes and gulches were filled up with boxes of choice tobacco, and Clay street, for a great distance, was paved with shovels, the handles making a kind of cordu- roy, and rather rough surface. Immigrants and gold-seekers were still coming. In 1850, the. State had a population of 117,538; twenty- seven thousand people arrived in San Francisco by sea and by the Isthmus. The year 1852 showed a popu- lation of 264435. During the year 1853, thirty-four thousand gold-seekers had returned home by sea, and fifteen thousand by land. The yield of gold in this year was the largest ever produced in the State — sixty-five million dollars. The product has kept steadily decreas- ing ever since at about an average of two million dol- lars per annum, until the present time, ^1872,) when it is about twenty -five million dollars. During the first years of the mines, much distress and disappointment prevailed, owing to diseases engen- dered by long voyages, hardship, and exposure in the 138 THE GOLDEN STATE. mines, disappointment in business or at the faro-table. Deaths from sheer neglect, want of medical aid, drunk- enness, or suicide — the latter always a favorite mode in California of relieving one's self of life's burdens — were frequent. Throughout the first three or four years of the min- ing excitement, every article of trade had to be im- ported. Most oeople believed that California was only a mining country — that nothing would grow upon the barren soil without constant irrigation ; so that the im- ports, in 1853, of San Francisco were over forty-five million dollars, over five million dollars of which was for flour and meal, four million dollars for butter, and over four million dollars for lumber. In this year, over fifty-seven million dollars in gold was exported. The tonnage arrivals and departures were considerably larger in this year than that of the port of Boston. As early as 1853, San Francisco was the third city in tonnage entrances in the United States — New York and New Orleans alone being ahead of it. Since that period, however, the tonnage entries have fallen off considerably ; still, San Francisco is fourth in this line yet — only three. New York, Boston, and New Orleans, being ahead. The navigation of the Sacramento and other rivers and the Bay of San Francisco, in the year 1848 and the early part of 1849, was carried on exclusively in small sailing crafts, (which were very scarce,) and in ships' boats, which made tedious voyages. After the gold discovery, and before steamers were in California, these small vessels found active employment in carry- ing passengers at twenty-five to forty dollars each to Sacramento : ten days, and two weeks, would be occu- EARLY RIVER NAVIGATION. 139 pied by these crafts in making the trip. In October, 1849, communication by steam to Sacramento was established: the first boat being the ''Pioneer" a small iron steamer shipped out from Boston in pieces ; next came the steamer Mini, followed by the McKim. All these entered upon the passenger trade to Sacramento in October, 1849, performing the trip in half a day. Fares were yet high: cabin, thirty dollars; deck, twenty dollars; a berth, five dollars extra; and meals, two dollars. The steamer Senator was soon after put on the Sacramento route ; and from that period to the present, steam navigation of all the inland waters of the country has been conducted with great spirit and with splendid steamers. Let it be remembered that the first steamer ever upoYi the Bay or waters of San Francisco and Cali- fornia was the small boat, about the size of a ship's boat, taken from Sitka in 1847, by Captain W. A. Leidesdorff, end run on the bay until February, 1848, when she wa.> lost in a northwest gale in the Bay of San Francisco, 140 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XII. Early agriculture — No vegetables — Gardening in the mines — Advent of farmers — Ignorance of seasons and crops — Increase of agricul- ture — Lumber — Fishing — Manufucturing — Coal — Fruits — Vege- tables — Permanent settlement in California — Varied industry — Happy homes — Legitimate occupations — Gold-hunters' graves — Overland emigration — Suffering of the *' Donner party ' '—Settlers to the rescue. The settlers in California before the discovery of gold, as well as those immediately succeeding that period, had the most vague and incorrect idea of the agricul- tural capability of the country. Some small vineyards and wheat-fields were cultivated by the Mexicans about the missions. The new-comers soon formed the opinion that California was only a mineral region, a desert of sand-hills, rugged, volcanic mountains, and alkaline flats. Such were the reports written " home " by the gold-seekers, and such the prevailing opinion among the masses of the people everywhere. Of course, in the first years of the gold-fever, no one had the time nor disposition to cultivate the soil; so that every mouthful consumed came by ship to San Francisco. The luxury of fresh fish, butter, eggs, and vegetables was not to be thought of. There was no time to grow vegetables : if they could be produced by steam, or dug out of the hills, the people might stop to cook them. After a while, some miner who had a fixed habitation would plant a few seeds and cultivate a little spot, with a few cabbages, onions, lettuce, and potatoes, only to be surprised that, without manure and without care, tliey would grow most luxuriandy, and sell at fabulous c o > H O > r. T •z o r r r. > r ■5 o a: X c E PI 2 > H O > Z o r f" o > r •ii o 5! '■■%'. ( c I a n tl aj re C th; mi in the un( anc tho call or doc squ; roas whil EARLY AGRICULTURE. 141 prices. Soon, every mining' camp and gulch was pro- ducing a supply of vegetables. Those who could not endure hard labor, or whose " luck " refused them gold, sought the rich spots about the streams and ravines, and practical gardening was soon in full operation, often paying much better than mining. Others seeing the price of chickens and eggs, and being fully disgusted with their fate in the mines, turned their attention to raising fowls; this also often paying large revenue. Others, again, having a few cows, would make butter, and sell milk at prices paying well their time and labor. Farmers were arriving with their families and teams across the country ; and, after a few months disappoint- ment in the mines, would seek the valleys and cultivate the soil — first in the small valleys about the mines, and after a while they extended into the lower and fertile regions of the Sacramento, San Joaquin, and Santa Clara valleys. Imperfect knowledge of the seasons, and an Idea that through the dry summers every thing, even wheat, must be irrigated, often led to great loss and delay, and in many instances to total failure of crops. Many of these branches of industry were not only carried on under circumstances of great ignorance as to seasons and soil, but ignorance and inexperience in most of those engaged as to the practical workings of their calling ; as, an ex-judge or briefless lawyer setting hens or feeding chickens and selling eggs ; a frisky young doctor or merchant's clerk picking lettuce or selling squash ; a tailor trying to milk a kicking cow ; a sailor roasting his goose; an apothecary trying to plough; while a shoemaker waxed warm in the exercise of all 142 THE GOLDEN STATE. his power to make both ends meet by sowing wheat to the last end of the land. Agricultural implements were scarce and rude; and, as for houses, the canvas tent was the only structure on the premises. Harness and implements all lay upon the ground in all seasons of die year, and an untidy, shiftless, agricultural population soon sprang up in most sections of the country. The miners and the entire population of the towns and villages were all uniformed with the gray shirt and slouch hat; all looked alike in that respect : all were " honest farmers, going home in the fall," or "honest miners, going home in the spring." From the year 1853, the agricultural and other in- dustrial pursuits of the State progressed with great energy, and often with most encouraging results: a good season often making a fortune from a patch of potatoes, beans, or onions, or from a field of wheat. Men began to rush to the mountains and canons in search of lumber, erecting steam and water power mills, and supplying much material for buildings, bridges, wharves, and replacing with sawed lumber the raw-hide fences of 1849 ^"^^ 1850. Fleets of boats and squads of men were engaged in supplying the markets with fish from the rivers and bay. Granite, slate, and marble quarries were opening; coal from Monte Diablo was in the market; asphaltum from the lower coast made excellent sidewalks and roofing ; fruit trees of two and three years growth were yielding luscious fruits; straw- berries, cherries, and currants began to be abundant ; immense fields of thousands of acres waved in golden- colored wheat; and, from an importer of breadstuffs, EARLY AGRICULTURE /.V CALIFORNIA. 143 California has become the greatest exporter of wheat and flour of any State in the Union. People were beginning to see that California had other resources than her mines, and to think that they might make their homes in her beautiful, rich valleys where eternal summer reigns. So soon as the people began to be impressed with the idea of a permanent residence for themselves and families, and abandoned the idea of roving over the country in search of a fortune vrith which to "return home," California entered upon a new era of prosperity. At this period r^en settled down to their work in earnest; and while many made fortunes, experience had taught the masses that to make a ;Tood living, support their families, and lay up a litde yearly, was all that could be expected. With these ideas, men sent for their families and began to build up their new homes. Most of those from the cold regions of the Atlantic States, Canada, and Europe, seeing the bene- fits and pleasures of so genial a climate as California, determined to live and die in the land of gold. Through- out the entire coast new fields of labor were opened, and new and permanent homes erected. The vast val- leys were fenced, tilled, and harvested; quiet homes nestled in the small, rich valleys and gulches, secluded in the foot-hills and canons ; substantial dwellings in the cities, with neat cottages in the country, began to show that California, as well as other lands, had homes. Speculation in mining and cCmmerce must now share its laurels with the arts and labor now asserting their dominion, and calling to their support men of ability, ambition, and industry. With the constantly increasing population, and the progress in mining, commerce, and agriculture, there sprang up a demand for machinery, 144 THE GOLDEN STATE. raw and manufactured articles of daily consumptior ; and soon an army of operators, laborers, mechanics, and artisans plunged into the field. The pursuits to be followed were not always selected with regard to the experience or fitness of the person engaged, but generally with an eye to how much money there was in it. This often led to amusing scenes and conflicts of occupations and strange results; as often occasioned by the singular customs, styles, and manner of doing business by the f)eople of the various nationalities rep- resented, or by general ignorance. Pay was good, and in most cases better for a mechanic than for a miner ; and soon the gold-hunters were in swarms transformed into agriculturalists, mechanics, and artisans ; they set- tled quietly down as farmers, lumbermen, teamsters, fishermen, carpenters, blacksmiths, tanners, tailors, ma- sons, coachmakers, painters, surveyors, photographers, physicians, judges, lawyers, preachers, teachers, hotel and bar-room keepers, politicians, and grave-diggers ; the latter class having, from July, 1850, to July, 1853 — three years — buried in San Francisco alone 4,055 gold- hunters. Poor fellows! how many of them, struck down either by disease contracted on the tedious voy- age round Cape Horn, on the miasmatic Isthmus of Panama, in the mines, or by dissipation, and far from the kind hand and gentle care of fond ones to aid and cheer them, have left their epitaph written only in the aching hearts of those who still, in doubt and fear, sigh for them, while their unmarked graves occupy their uncertain tenure in the shifting sands of Verba Buena! In the whole history of California and the trials of its early pioneers there is no chapter so sad in its details as that of the unfortunate immigrant- company known OVEHl^lfO IMMICKATION as the "Donner Party" Of ,1. • • '"*' • a party of about eighth took , „ ™""&'^tion of .846, end of Salt lake. The ad™t ""''''' ^ *« «°«h of that season rJchedZ7^^''y°^'^^'"'"^igrants the falling of the snows infr""'"'" "'"^^ ^-^^e Conner party, cons^nV "f elr"""''"^ '' •"" *« Aree men, thirty women, fnd sevl^ r.,r"°"^'"°«y- delays, found themselves on ^ '^'"''''•^"-owing to, *J. Truckee pass. i„ ^l hearfo/'ll °«°''^'-' "' owng to an unusually earlva^H ^'^'■'^'' and. >n.dst of mountains of s^ow a"1 'r''!^'^'-' '" *« -as utterly impossible. ^^^J^ ."''it ^ Passage -n the snow, and fell among the 'wl u''" ''""^'' of them could be found Soon .T r ' '° "'^' "° *'^'^^- t'on stared them in L fte T f P™^"'""^' ^^arva- last morsel of tough ox h.V)!.' T • *"* ^°"*' and the *e aspect gr.^ m'TJZ'J .^'^ ''—''.. five women, eight men :,niiJT? ''''^^" Persons— camp about six weeks 'aft" r T '"t""-'^""' ^°""«'s JhopesorreachingtLtiS-^^^^^^^^^^ After tolling through the sno«.o T *"^ Sierras. they found themselve at tre^d ofTf' '^"''^^P' of provisions, fainting and fallW ° k ^"' *""'' »« remaining ones pushfd forwardye ' T' '^'^^ flesh of their fallen commdeldt k''^'^'''"^ °^ *<= packing it on their teSs for ^ "'"■"'"^■"<^«'- and journey. Still toiling onJr ' "^" ^^'' horrid food; the last r.XTs^'/C^'T '''''" °""^' «'as eaten. At this stage the tZr.,"' ^""-"^hoes they might be munler^ for fo^^ '"*f ?'> fearing that seventeenth day out,^ Z Ti ''"^'""''y ^^^'- The had expired. W Viunal' f P='' ^' --Pt one, than alive, aided by tCo ?rie„H? ."'T.'™'"' """"^ ^ead y two friendly Indians, reached the 146 THE GOLDEN STATE. settlers on Bear river. Aid was immediately forwarded to the remaining survivors in the snows of the Sierras by the people of the valleys, who, from San Francisco to the foot-hills, were all saddened at the terrible news of the sufferers. The relief parties found it most haz- ardous to penetrate the Sierras. On reaching the camp of the unfortunates, scenes of horror presented themselves: the wild aspect of the surviving skeletons, as they stared in blank and idiotic gaze with their hol- low eyes from their pillows of snow, surrounded by the grim skeletons of their dear friends, was heart-rending. Of the eighty persons doomed to this awful mountain imprisonment, but forty-four survived — twenty-two of whom were females. Donner's camp, the farthest away of the immigrants, was not reached by the relief party until late in April, 1847. At this camp all were dead but one: he, sur- rounded by the skeletons of his fallen comrades, and his kettle in which was boiling his meal of human flesh, refused food. He had been converted into a cannibal, repulsive and savage ; and only by force was he com- pelled to quit the horrid scenes of his six months imprisonment I T 7 RM C A^ iUli . .4%<- N tr V ^^,. \mimu O ■.♦4. Itv ^x¥itl^^_; .w-ft*^ OF TirK (STATE J '~^^^__\i V Sl« m''-"^^^^-^ EARLIEST MENTION OF CALIFORNIA, 147 tu/o ''\ CHAPTER XIII. California — Origin of the name — Griffins in the land — Hot ovens of the natives — ^Area of the State — Agricultural, mineral, grazing, and marsh lands — ^Area equal to one hundred and forty-five States the size of Rhode Island — Compared with states and countries of Europe — Equal to thirty-eight governments of Europe — Capable of supporting a population of eighty-three million — Great produc* tiveness of the soil — Genial climate — Great natural resources- Commercial importance — Mountains — ^Valleys—Rivers — Climate — Seasons — Harvests — Forests — Mineral riuige — Beauties and wonders of the Sierras. California : the origin of the name of this State has been a fruitful subject of disputation by writers both of the past and present centuries, all of whom fail to give 2jiy positive date or identity of person or circumstances to support the various theories regarding it; and as the most searching investigation on the part of the author of this volume has faikd to clearly define the origin of the name, or to throw any new light upon the subject, some of the opinions generally entertained respecting this subject are here given. The name is first found in a small volume of romance published in Spain, in 1510, entitled **The Sergas of Esplandian, the son of Amadis, of Gaul." The follovF- ing extracts from this once popular volume will show how the name occurs : " Know that on the right hand. of the Indies there is an island called California, very near to the Terrestrial Paradise, which was peopled by black women, without any men among them, because they were accustomed to live after the manner of the Amazons. They were of strong and hardened bodies, of ardent courage, and of great force. The island was the strongest in the world, from its steep rocks and great cliffs. Their arms were all of gold, and so were the caparisons of the wild beasts they rode." ••^-~.-..' 148 THE GOLDEN STATE. " In the island called California are many griffins, on account of the great savageness of the country and the immense quantity of wild game to be found thei<^." An Opinion prevails among some well-informed authors that the name is derived from the Latin words calidus fomusy meaning hot oven; and that the idea was taken from the hot furnaces, or sweat-ovens, into which the natives put their sick, or from the hot valleys of the country : indeed, certain cafions and small valleys in California are almost hot enough in summer time to suggest such an idea; but as the State received its name before civilized man had beheld the land, Cortez had invaded Mexico, Balboa discovered the Pacific ocean, and Magellan first navigated its waters, it is sup- posed tiiat the name California was the coinage of the brain of the novelist mentioned. The fabulous stories circulated by the early Spanish navigators respecting the riches of the newly discovered country, and the great natural productiveness of the soil, and its min- erals, may have suggested the name, from the Greek words Kala-chora-nea, meaning a rich or fresh produc- tiveness, fertility; opposite to Aphoria — sterility or unproductiveness. In this view, the application of the name is most suggestive and appropriate. Centuries before the discovery of the American continent, and while the early navigators of Europe made their tedious voyages to the Indian ocean and the Red sea, the stories of the discoveries of distant lands and strange people were the staple of the ro- mantic and fabulous tales related about the " Terres- trial Paradise" and the "Land of Gold/' its marveUous wonders and strange people. The fictions of the ancients and heathen mythology were freely employed cc hit miJ EARLIEST MENTION OF CALIFORNIA. 149 to len^ charms and wonder to the distant and strange land ; and, to fulfil the idea of the ancients as to the keeper of the precious metals, the Spanish novelist already quoted assured l5!s readers that the imaginary- animal, the griffin — half lion and half eagle — which was supposed to watch over mines of gold and hidden treasure, had its abode in California. That the reader may realize the absurdities of these early times, and the notions of the people respecting this then unexplored land, a few additional extracts are here given from some of the early explcers of the South Pacific, who had worked up their imaginations respecting the fabled land of gold. One writer, de- scribing the dangers of the seas, says : ** The crew and passengers consume their provisions, and then die miserably. Many vessels hseve been lost in this way ; but the people have learned to save themselves from this fate by the follow- ing contrivance: they take bullocks' hides along with them, and whenever this storm rises they sew themselves up in the hides, taking care to have a knife in their hand ; and, being secure against the sea-water, they throw themselves into the ocean. Here they are soon perceived by a Large eagle called a griffin, which takes them for cattle, darts down and seizes them in his gripe, and carries thev^^ upon drv land, where he deposits his burthen upcM\ a hill or in a dale, there to consume his prey. The man, however, now mnkes use of his knife to kill the bird, and creeps forth from the hide. Many people riave been saved by this stratagem." Another traveller. Sir John Maundeville, speaking of the strange lands he had visited, and doubdess Calixjr- nia was one of the islands alluded to, (California was considered an island by its first discoverers,) says : "In one of these isles are people of great stature, like giants, hideous to look upon, and they have but one eye, whach is in the middle of the forehead ; and they eat nothing bui .aw ttesh aai And in another isle, toward the south, dwell people of foul iy> THE GOLDEN STATE. stature and cursed nature, who have no head, but their eyes are in their shoulders. In another isle are people that have the fip above the mouth so great that, when they sleep in the sun, they cover all the face with that lip. And in another isle there are dwarfs which have nu moul h*, but instead of their mouth they have a little round hole, and wl'.en they shall eat or drink they take it through a pipe or a pen or such a thing, and suck it in. And in another isle there 9X?. people that have ears so long that they hang down to their knees, [a tribe of Oregon Indians split the ear, allowing the outside which was cut from the top to hang down, thus making the ears to hang down to the shoulders.] In another isle there are people that have horses' feet. In another isle there are people that go upon their hands and feet like beasts, and are all skinned and feathered, and would leap as lightly into trees and from tree to tree as squir- rels or apes. In another islvi are hermaphrodites ; and in another isle are people that go upon their knees, and at every step they go it seems that they will fall: they have eight toes on every foot. Many other diverse people of diverse natures there are in other lands about, of which it were too long to tell. " Of Paradise I cannot speak properly, for I was not there. 'Tis far beyond Cathay, [China,] and I repent not going there, but I was not worthy. But as I have heard say of wise men beyond, I shall tell you with good will. Terrestrial Paradise, as wise men say, is the highest place of the earth ; and it is so high that it nearly touches the circle of the moon there, as the moon makes her turn. .... And you shall understand that no man that is mortal may approach to that Paradise : for by land no man may go for wild beasts that are in the deserts, and for the high mountains and great huge rocks that no man may pass by for the dark places that are there; and by the rivers may no man go, for the water runs so roughly and sharply, because it comes down so outrageously from the high places above, that it runs in great waves, that no ship may row ot sail against it, and the water roars so, and makes so huge a noise, and so great a tempest, that no man may hear another in a ship, though he cried with all the might he could. Many great lords have essayed with great will, many times, to pass by these rivers toward Paradise, with full great companies, but they might not speed in their voyage ; and many died, from weariness in row- ing against the strong waves, and many of them became blind, and many deaf, for the noise of the water, and some perished and were J AREA OF CALIFORNIA. 151 lost in the ^aves ; so that no mortal man may approach to that place without special grace of God : so that of that place I can tell you no more." Cortez having, in 1521, completed the conquest of Mexico, turned his attention to exploring the western side of his new acquisitions; and at this period we find the Gulf of California called by its present name, and also the "Sea of Cortez." That California was the land mentioned by the novelist in 1510 cannot be doubted, as California was considered an island, and placed upon the maps and geographies as such, until the expedition of the Viceroy of New Spain, in 1686, more than a century and a-half after Cortez visited the country, and discovered and reported it to be a part of the mainland of the continent of America. The State of California extends from latitude 32® 45' to latitude 42° ; is a little over eight hundred miles in length, and twelve hundred miles, following the chief indentations of the coast. It is an average width of two hundred miles from tjie Pacific ocean to the crest of the Sierras, the eastern boundary; and contains an area of 188,981 square miles, or 120,947,840 acres. California is bounded on the north by the State of Oregon, on the east by the State of Nevada and Terri- tory' of Arizona, on the south by the republic of Mexico, and on the west by the Pacific ocean. The combined area of the six New England States is btt 68,348 square miles, showing that California has an area almost three times as great as this division of the republic. The area of the six Middle States — New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Mar>*land, and West Virginia — is 137,464 square miles; showing that the Ija THE GOLDEN STATE. area of California is 5i»5i7 square miles larger than this section. The combined area of the twelve States forming the New England and Middle States is 205,812 square miles, showing that California contains an .area almost as great as these twelve States. It is 78,135 square miles larger than the whole of Great Britain ; the latter being 110,846 square miles. It would make twenty- four States the size of the State of Massachusetts, leav- ing 2,781 square miles; and the area of California would make one hundred and forty-five States as large as the State of Rhode Island. The combined area of Great Britain, Holland, Greece, Denmark, Brunswick, and Switzerland is 188,330 square miles, leaving the area of California 551 square miles larger than these six European countries. The area of Andorra, Anhalt, Baden, Belgium, Bremen, Biiinswick, Papal States, Denmark, Frank- fort, Greece, Hamburg, Hanover, Hesse-Cassel, Hesse- Darmstadt, Hesse-Homburg, Holland, with Luxem- burg, Lichtenstein, Lippe-Detmold, Lippe-Schaumburg, Mecklenburg-Schwerin, Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Nassau, Portugal, Reuss, San Marino, Saxony, Saxe- Altenburg, Saxe-Coburgand Gotha, Saxe-Meining-Hildburg, Saxe- Weimar-Eisenach, Schwarzburg, Rudolstadt, Schwarz- burg-Sondershausen, Waldeck, Lubec, Wurtemberg, Switzerland, and the republic of Hayti — thirty-seven countries of Europe and one republic of America, (West Indies,) — embraces a total of 189,273 square miles — a fraction only more than the area of California. The population of the thirty-eight countries alluded to is, in round numbers, thirty million ; while the popula- tion of California, by the census of 1870, was but 560,247 AREA OF CALIFORNIA. 153 little less than three persons to each square mile. So genial the climate, so productive the soil, so early the maturity of cattle, so rich in precious metals, so great the water-power — in a word, so great tlie natural resources of California, when compared with the coun- tries already alluded to— that eighty million of people could be easily maintained upon her soil. But Califor- nia is capable of sustaining a larger population ; and, that the reader may comprehend what may possibly be the population of this vast region, and to what popula- tion and power California may yet attain, it is but necessary to present a few further illustrations from some of the most popular countries of Europe. The area of Great Britain is 1 10,846 square miles, and her population thirty-two million. This would be 286 per- sons to each square mile. Now let us see what this density would give California : at the rate of 286 to each mile, California would have a population of 54,048,566. But California can even do better than that : she can surpass the largest density of any country of Europe. At the present period, (1872,) Belgium, the most densely populated country of Europe, has a popu- lation of 440 persons to each square mile of her whole area of 11,313 square miles. Belgium must still con- tinue to c^row more dense in population ; but, with her present density in California, the State would have a population of 83,151,640, or more than double the population of every State and Territory in the Ameri- can republic ; the federal census giving the whole pop- ulation of the republic at 38,281,384 in 1870 Of the 1 20,947,840 acres in the State of California, but 32,338,378 acres have been surveyed. There are 7,095,714 acres covered by Mexican grants, 5,023,714 154 THE GOLDEN STATE. acres of which have been confirmed, and patents issued by the government, leaving 2,071,825 acres of the claims reported for action not yet patented. Outside of all lands granted by the federal government and the lands covered by the Mexican grants there are yet (1872) 100,070,177 acres of public lands in the State. Year after year the arable lands of the State seem to widen: mountain ridges and high, rolling hills, regarded as worthless a few years since, are found by experience to be excellent farm-lands, producing grain, vegetables, and fruit of almost every description ; And, under a diversified cultivation and the agricultural skill and labor of European farmers, thousands of acres yet considered worthless will be made most productive. So far but a fraction of the land of the State has even been surveyed, and rich and fertile valleys are to-day without a furrow ever having been turned. But three million acres are cultivated, and five million acres en- closed, (18^72,) within the whole State. Twenty million bushels of wheat are grown annually, and to pasture the three and a half million sheep, two hundred and fifty thousand horses, and eight hundred tliousand neat cattle in the State, occupies wide ranges of untilled and unfenced land. It is difificult to give any correct classification of the lands of the State. It is estimated, however, that sixty- five million acres are susceptible of cultivation; twenty- five million acres of pasture lands ; fifteen million acres of mountain, forest, and rugged hills ; six million acres of sandy, gravelly, and alkaline plains ; five million acres of overflowed, salt-marsh, and tide lands ; and 4,947,840 acres in lakes, rivers, and bays. To know whether California is capable of sustaining NIGHT 80EIIB ON TBB SAN JOAQUIN RIVEBr— MONTB DIAIiLO IN THE OI8TANCB. NIGHT SCENE ON THE MAIN BBANCH OP THE SACRAMENTO RiyBB. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k i' .♦• 4r %^ W {< f/j K1 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■u Kii 1122 S bS |||20 III 1.8 14 111.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ iV :\ \ ^9) ^>. ''. '^ V ^ ;\ %^ ^^<^ ^9.^ ^s (y^'^y f wm THB FORD OP THE Y0-8EM1TK, VltW OF MOUNT 8HASTA, THIRTY HILE9 DISTANT, FUTURE GREATNESS OF CALIFORNIA. 155 a population of the density of any of the countries here mentioned it is only necessary to be informed that, in natural resources, the most densely populated country above named is vasdy inferior to this State, whose balmy "climate permits of out-door labor and cultivation of the soil every day of the year, and whose rich and inexhaustible soil produces so abundantly and luxuri- antly. Her fields ot wheat yield from fourteen to one hundred bushels to the acre — forty to sixty bushels . being considered a good yield, and twenty-one bushels to the acre the average of the State ; whilst in most of the countries of Europe and the Eastern States of America from eight to fourteen bushels to the acre is considered a good crop, while many of them average only from five to six bushels to the acre. The unparalleled productions of vegetables, fruit, and grain, with the ease of cultivation, the perpetual summer, time saved from building warm houses and procuring food and shelter for cattle, fuel and raiment for man, the freeness of the agricultural lands from either forests or rocks, the absence of worms and dis- ease in fruit and grain, the abundance of wild grass and wild oats, the early maturity of fruit trees and cattle, the great water-powers, whose crystal spray is never congealed by winter's frosts, the healthful and vigorous condition of man and beast — all assure us that Cali- fornia is capable of producing from her soil the means of sustaining a population of three times the density of any of the countries or States named in this chapter. The natural resources, great mineral and agricultural wealth of California, with her eight hundred miles of sea coast indented with numerous bays and harbors, facing the Pacific ocean, the direct and easy steam com- 156 THE GOLDEN STATE. munication with Asia and the islands of the Pacific, the railroad connection with the Atlantic States, all place her midway in the direct line of trade between Asia and Europe, and render her geographically one of the most favorably located States in the Union. The country is divided into hundreds of valleys by ridges and chains of mountains. The principal moun- tains are the Sierra Nevada range, running about four hundred miles along the eastern boundary in the north- em portion of the State, and the Coast Range, follow- ing the course of the ocean along its western line the entire length of the State. Toward the southern sec- tion of the State the chain is often broken and inter- sected with streams, cafions, and small, fertile valleys. At some places, as in Marin county, on the north side of the Golden Gate, this range of mountains pushes almost to the ocean; but its general course is from twelve to twenty miles from the sea, leaving a belt of rich agricultural and grazing land between it and the Pacific. This section of the State is entirely different in climate from the interior: during the hot summer months, the fogs and vapor from the ocean hang in dense volumes over it, cooling the air, and keeping vegetation green through the entire dry season. The harvest in this section is several weeks later than in the valleys of the Interior. Here, too, is the great dairy and pasture range of the State. South of Santa Cruz, this ridge is to a great extent barren of trees, or covered with an inferior growth of timber; but west of this point, and particularly through the upper portions of the State, it is crowned with valuable forests of cedar, fir, redwood, and oak. The valleys upon both sides of this range are well watered with thousands of crystal Hoc Her and stan( too, trees the wonc ing Leba MOUNTAIN CHAINS AND PEAKS. 157 Streams, running from the ridges of the mountains either toward the interior or emptying into the Pacific ocean. Trout are abundant in all these streams. This chain averages in height from two thousand to six thousand feet above the level of the sea, and in width from fifteen to thirty-five miles. The grand mountain chain of the Sierras, marking the eastern boundary of California for more than four hundred miles south from the Oregon line, often broken and irregular, in its general features of natural gran- deur presents varied themes of reflection and observa- tion, as being the main artery or back-bone from whose lateral spurs and rugged sides emanate the great gold and silver supply, which exists not only in California and Nevada but which, following the general line of this range, supplies the vast mineral wealth from Pata- gonia through South and Central America, Mexico, California, Oregon, Washington Territory, and British Columbia, until it is lost in the eternal snows of Alaska's lonely shore on the distant confines of the Arctic ocean. In this grand range of mountains in California are found the highest elevations in the republic except those in Alaska — Mount Whitney being higher than Mount Hood, or the highest peaks of the Rocky mountains. Here Mount Shasta lifts its hoary head 14,440 feet; and Mount Whitney, the loftiest mountain of the range, stands fifteen thousand feet above the sea-level. Here, too, stand the solemn sentinels of the forest, the mighty trees of Mariposa, Calaveras, Tuolumne, and Tulare, the most gigantic vegetable growth in the world, the wonder and admiration of all who behold them, dwarf- ing into comparative insignificance the cedars of Lebanon and the pines and firs of the Baltic and the 158 THE GOLDEN STATE. Saco. Here, too, may be seen the famed valley and falls of the Yosemite, where, at a few bounds, the mighty sheet of water dashes a distance of two thou- sand five hundred and twenty-six feet into the valley below. High in the ridges of this chain, nestling betwixt the precipitous and frowning walls of dark and relent- less granite, nature elevates her mighty urns, which, like inland seas, inspire and impress man with the majesty of creation, as he floats upon their placid waters, or in vain attempts to sound their almost fathomless depths. Here the Sacramento, San Joa- quin, and Klamath rivers have their source. Down the sides, ridges, spurs, and gorges of this range, and its foot-hills and gulches, the men of every clime search for gold ; and, up from the parched and arid plains and heat of summer, man and beast seek cooling fountains of pure water and new life, in the rich verdure and changing scenes of the charming Sierras, whose gran- deur of mountains, granite domes, cascades, lakes, forests, and foliage surpass in natural beauty the forests and glaciers of the Alps and the fascinations of Como, Neufchatel, and Lucerne. MOUNTAIN CHAINS AND PEAKS. 159 CHAPTER XIV. Mountains — Sierra Nevadas — ^Winter, spring, and summer in the Sierras — Snows of the mountains — Farming, lumbering, and grazing in the Sierras — Forests — Big trees — Shrubs — Plants— Flowers^ — Grasses — Poison oak. The description already given of the Coast Range and Sierra Nevada mountains will have sufficiently defined the two great mountain ranges of California. For the better information of the reader, a descrip- tion of the principal mountains of the State, with the counties in which they are located, is here given. In the description of the several counties, the leading feat- ures of interest — as the valleys, forests, mountains, lakes, and rivers — are more minutely described. In the Coast Range, the following are the principal peaks: Tamalpats, Marin county, 2,597 ^^^^\ Monte Diablo, Contra Costa county, 3,856; Mount St. Helena^ Napa county, 4,343 ; Mount Hamilton, Santa Clara county, 4,443 ; Mount Pinos, Santa Barbara county, 7,300; Mount San Bernardino, San Bernardino county, 8,500; Mount Ripley, Lake county, 7,500; Mount Dow- ney, Los Angeles county, 5,675; besides many other mountain peaks in this range of from four thousand to five thousand feet The chief mountains in the Sierra Nevada range, in California, are the volcanic cones near Mono lake, Mono county, 9,300 feet; Dome mountain, Tulare county, g,Z2y, Lassen Peak, Shasta county, 10,577; Silver moun- tain, Alpine county, 10,934; Mount Hoffman, Alpine county, 10,872; Cathedral Peak, Mariposa county. i.6o. THE GOLDEN STATE. I i,ooo ; Mount Silliman, Tulare county, 1 1,623 ; Castle Peak, Mono county, 1 3,000 ; Lyell Peak, Mono county, 13,217; Mount Dana, Mono county, 13,227; Mount Brewer, Mono county, 13,886; Mount King, Fresno county, 14,000; Mount Shasta, Siskiyou county, 14,440; Mount Tyndell, Tulare county, 14,386; Mount Wil- liams, Tulare county, 14,500; and Mount Whitney, Tulare county, 15,000, the highest mountain in Cali- fornia. The two main chains of mountains in California — the Coast Range and the Sierras — are not of the bar- ren and desolate character that many might suppose. The Coast Range, southward of the Golden Gate, pre- sents many rugged, wild, frowning, rocky crags, and bald, granite peaks; but the general range of this chain is filled with rich ravines and small valleys, and even the rolling hills, high above the clouds and fog-banks of summer, are in many places rich in deep soil, covered with a luxuriant growth of wild oats, grass, and flowers, well suited to agriculture or grazing, well wooded, and abounding in beautiful, never-failing streams of water. The Sierra Nevadas, averaging from fifty to seventy miles in width and over four hundred and fifty miles in length in California, are by no means a desert of eter- nal snow and frowning granite : on the highest ridges, deep snow falls during the winter months, but the cli- mate in the entire range is not so cold as in the State of Virginia or portions of Kentucky during the corre- sponding months. The snow-fall in this range begins toward the end, of November, and continues through the winter months until April, during which, upon the high ridges, there is a snow-fall of from ten to forty feet, but on the middle and lower ranges only of a few feet, Fa succe resor the lowei bask float colum peaks, heads lawn, beauti< scenes presen than th II SOIL, SEASONS, AND VEGETATION. I6l which disappears in April, when spring opens balmy and pleasant. Hundreds of thousands of acres of this range is deep loam soil, fit for agriculture, with rich meadows from which are cut large quantities of hay. This district affords the finest pasture-range in summer on the whole coast. In this range, also, down its rug- ged sides, are the vast forests of firs, oaks, and pines, which will be found more fully described under the head of " Forests" further on. Snow almost entirely disappears from the Sierras in summer. By the middle of July, not a trace of winter can be se^n except in a few isolated spots, where, high up in the clouds, clinging to the northern side of some towering peak, may be seen small patches of snow, as if dodging. and hiding from the powerful rays of the sun, which through the long summer pours down its scorching floods of light and heat, melting all before it and parching the valleys below. Farming, lumbering, and grazing are carried on with success in this range. Indeed, it is yearly becoming the resort of the tourist, and thousands of the citizens of the towns and villages of the scorched plains of the lower country repair hither in the summer months, to bask beneath the luxuriant foliage, angle in the streams, float upon the placid lakes, gaze upon the towering columns of the smooth granite and slate mountain peaks, which, like cathedral domes, lift their imposing heads above the clouds ; or wander upon the verdant lawn, in admiration of the mysterious wonders and beauties of the famed Yosemite, whose ever-changing scenes of gauzy vapor, and dancing, fickle rainbows, present scenes more like the fabled dreams of fairy land than the realities of earth, II l62 THE GOLDEN STATE. FORESTS. The greater part of the State of California (except the high mountains) consists of rolling hills, rich and fertile valleys, swamp and overflowed lands, and is entirely free from rock ; and, .as far as the eye can reach, in all directions, without tree or shrub of any kind, except a fringe of willow or cottonwood about the, edges of the streams and springs, a few clumps of broadspread oaks in the valleys, or straggling ones about the ravines and canons of the hills. Along the Coast Range, the Sierras, and the various smaller mountain chains and ridges, forests of oak^ pine, white and red cedar, cypress, laurel, fir, and other species are abundant west of Santa Cruz ; south of this point, in the Coast Range, timber is confined chiefly to scattering trees or a few groups of inferior growth. Redwood — a species of cedar— ^grows in great profu- sion, is of common use in house-building, and forms a staple commercial lumber throughout the State. This tree grows to a great size : one in Santa Cruz county is tvvo hundred and. seventy-five feet in height and nine- teen feet in diameter. Many trees can be found among this class of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty feet in height, and six, eight, ten, and fourteen feet in diameter. The wood is of a reddish color, very free from knots, and splits easily; is very durable, although not very strong. Common to the Coast Range, valleys and hills, is a great variety of trees and shrubs of variegated and beautiful appearance, differing very essentially from the same species in other countries ; many of them entirely confined to the State of California. In the large variety in the State are the wild nutmeg, iron wood, poplar trel "BIG TREES," MARIPOSA AND CALVERAS GROVES, CALIFORNIA. (First tree, 350 feet high and 28 feet in diameter; Second tree 386 feet high and 31 feet in diameter.) r*i*^ i IX X H fi O o The in the Tulare the mc globe. nestled from foi and as thousan| range, '"oth tr^ and one Thegro] •rcj-Mi M I i a»g=ci.^ FORESTS, TREES, AND SHRUBS. 163 white cedar, cypress, Monterey pine, walnut, willow, dogwood, cherry, white maple, in the southern coast ; throughout the central and northern part of the State may be found the yew, chestnu;, ish, • 'ler, cottonwood, manianita, madrofia, laurel, rhinquapir, oak, sycamore, balsam-fir, spruce, cedar, sugar ar-^ othor pine, walnut, dogwood, crab-apple, buckchoni, lilac cherry, plum, j]frape-vine, vine-maple, and sequoia, ^minimoth tree.) it will be observed that Californir* is destitute of many • of the species of valuable timber of the Atlantic States and Canada, such as beech, birch, sugar-maple, hemlock, juniper, elm, and hickory. To compensate in some degree for the loss of those valuable forest trees Cali- fornia has many species peculiar to her soil, not to be found in any other part of the globfe ; indeed all her trees, flowers, and shrubs seem to be different from those in any other country, many of the former supply- ing the finest quality of cabinet and house timber. THE BIG TREES. These are found only in the Sierra range, and chiefly in the groups of Calaveras, Mariposa, Tuolumne, and Tulare counties. They stand in solitary grandeur, as the most gigantic specimens of vegetable life on the globe. These giants of the forest stand in the valleys nestled in this chain of mountains at an elevation of from four thousand to five thousand feet above the sea; and as no vegetable life exists in this range above nine thousand feet altitude, their tops are much below that range. There are seven distinct groups of these mam- moth trees — three in Mariposa county, two in Tulare, and one each in Tuolumne and Calaveras counties. The. group in the latter county was the first discovered, 1 64 THE GOLDEN STATE. and possesses among its numbers the tallest tree known in the State. To persons who have not visited the Pacific coast and seen the immense forests of California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, a description of these forpsts of the Sierras sounds like romance. To the lumbermen of the Baltic and -Penobscot, who look upon a pine of eighty to one hundred feet high and three to six feet in diameter as a monster, 2. description of the " Big Tree Grove " of Calaveras county, some of the trees of which are four hundred and thirty-five feet in length and one hundred and ten feet in circumference at the base, or more than thirty-three feet in diameter, must seem ridiculous. One of these monsters was cut down some years ago, by boring with long augers, which occupied five men constantly for twenty- two days, equal to one hundred and ten days labor of one man ; the stump, levelled and planed off, being twenty-seven feet in diameter, has often been the scene of cotillion parties and festive gatherings — not of children, but of full- grown, able-bodied California men and women. An- other of these giants now fallen is hollow, forming a tunnel so large that parties have often rode into it on horseback for seventy feet, turned the horse around and rode out without dismounting. The top is broken off, and two horsemen can ride abreast through this tree for its entire length without stooping. These trees grow in a deep, rich soil ; the wood is soft, light, and dry, splitting freely, of a reddish color, and is valuable for building purposes ; it much resem- bles red cedar. The Calaveras grove is situated in Calaveras county, between the Stanislaus and Calaveras rivers, twenty The about Jt con varying three h twenty over ai] thousan giants n. feet, anc Giant' GIANTS OF THE FOUEST. 165 miles east of Mokelumne Hill, and 4,760 feet above the sea-level. There are ninety-two of the "Big Tree" species in the group ; ten of them are over thirty feet in diameter, and eighty-two of a diameter from fifteen to thirty feet, ranging from two hundred and forty to three hundred and sixty-six feet in height. A list of twenty-five of the largest trees of the Calaveras group is here given, with the names : Names of the Trees. T. Starr King General Scott General Jackson Two Sentinels, (frqnt of hotel) Salem Witch Trinity Mother of the Forest.. William C. Bryant.. Henry W. Beecher . Granite State General Washington Abraham Lincoln ..., «i ss: s c . s fere . ab lots 'i Ec: 't. "I u ircu six the w U 366 SO 327 45 320 42 315 «•• 310 >>. 308 48 30s 63 30s 49 291 45 286 50 284 52 281 44 Names of the Trees. Bay State Old Kentucky Empire State Andrew Johnson Daniel Webster Mother and Son Edward Everett Pride of tlhe Forest... Vermont John Torrey, (nobis) ArborvitJE Queen Beauty of the Forest. Henry Clay .5 280 277 27s 273 270 269 265 260 259 259 258 258 241 u > U.2 I 48 45 50 32 49 64 46 50 41 35 31 44 The Mariposa group, in Mariposa county, is situated about thirty miles southeast of the town of Mariposa. It consists of four hundred and twenty-seven trees, varying in size from two hundred and seventy-'five to three hundred and twenty-five feet in height, and from twenty to thirty- four feet in diameter. They extend over an area of about five hundred acres, about six thousand feet above the level of the sea. One of these giants now prostrate indicates a length of four hundred feet, and a diameter of about forty feet. " Tl?e Grizzly Giant" is the king of this group, being about thirty- 1 66 THE GOLDEN STATE. four feet in diameter, and three hundred and twenty- five feet in height. There are three other groups in this county, near the Mariposa grove: one contains eighty-six and the other thirty-five mammoth trees, averaging about the diameters of those already de- scribed. Throughout Ttiolumne county groups of the "Big Trees" are found; and still further south, in Tuhre county, at an elevation of about sixty-five hundred feet, and about forty-six miles northeast of the town of Visalia, scattered over a range of fifty miles in length, hundreds of these trees are found ; and, although the average height is not so great as those of Calaveras and Mariposa, some now prostrate are as great in girth as the largest in the State. The largest standing tree of this group is two hundred and seventy-six feet in height, and one hundred and six feet in circumference ; a portion of it had been burnt away ; originally its girth is supposed to have been about one hundred and twenty feet. Not the least remarkable about these mountain mon- archs is their age, ascertained by scientific observation to be in some cases from one thousand to three thou- sand years; and still there they stand, in primeval majesty, defiant of sun, rain, frost, and storms, unen- cumbered by branches, erect, well proportioned. In their crowns of evergreen they look down from their aerial heights upon their offspring, young giants in the bud or a few hundred years of age, struggling for the mastery over the oak and sturdy pitch and sugar pine, soon to be dwarfed In comparison, as the young sequoia lifts his arms into the clouds. ■^ coTirl SECTION OF MAMMOTH TREE, CALIFORNIA. (31 Feet in diameter.) A COTITMON PARTY OF THIRTY-TWO PERSONS DANCINO ON THE STUMP OF THE MAMMOTH TREE. an mj AI bei the bei pla all mu: stal brai upo atta wor] a sc peof Calii over Coas three in th( being affect conta( the aij with J Unplej INDIGENOUS PRODUCTIONS. 167 SHRUBS, PLANTS, FLOWERS, AND GRASSES. Of the classes of indigenous shrubs, plants, flowers, and grasses there is a great number and a great variety, many of them of much beauty, fragrance, and value. Alder, cottonwood, lilac, wild cherry, plum, grape, bam- berry, current, blueberry, (a few of this latter, only in the Coast Range,) strawberries, raspberries, black' berries, salmonberries, tar-weed, white lervisia, pitcher- plant, soft arnica, wild flax, and wild mustard abound all over the coast, valleys, and hill-sides. The wild mustard grows in great fields, or forests, some of the stalks attaining twelve and fourteen feet in height, with branches, to which a horse can safely be hitched, and upon which the birds lodge. The berry of this plant attains a size, quality, and perfection unequalled in the world ; and the gathering of it of late years has proved a source of profitable employment to thousands of people. Thei*e is enough mustard growing wild in California to supply the market of the whole world. POISON OAK. The poison oak of California exists pretty generally over the State ; but abounds in the lower valleys and Coast Range. Generally it is a little, straggling shrub, . three or four feet high, with dark red, glaze-like leaves; in the shade of trees, it climbs like a vine, the leaves being broader and of a light green. Many persons are affected by this poisonous shrub, either by coming in contact with it or having its poisonous gases carried in the air ; it generally affects the face and exposed parts with swelling and itching, which is very painful and Unpleasant. Those f ersons subject to this affliction are 168 Tff£ GOLDEN STATE. liable to repeated attacks ; and, as but little is generally known about the treatment necessary, some of the most effective remedies are here given, all of which are simple and applied externally: constant applications of hot waf'ir to the parts affected, steam or hot baths, warm solutions of sugar of lead, water of ammonia, warm vinegar and water ; all applied as hot as can be com- fortably endured. On the authority of Dr. Colbert A. Canfield^ of California, a recipe is here given, which beyond doubt is most effective : a decoction made by stewing either the dried or green leaves or by rubbing the bruised green leaves of the grindelia, a plant grow- ing in many parts of California, especially in the south. It is a tall pv-^rennial belonging to the composite family, and looks lik>^ a small sunflower. It is from one to two feet high, has bright yellow flowers in heads of one or two inches in diameter ; the buds, and even the leaf, contain a sticky balsam or resinous matter; its medici- nal qualities are supposed to be contained in its resinous or balsamy matter. It has long been known to the Indians and native Spanish of California, not only as a cure for poison oak, but in many skin diseases, as salt- rheum, nettle-rash, and many others. A small quantity of this herb gathered in season, and kept in every family, would, if properly applied, save much anxiety and suffering from the effects of poison oak. Of the grasses and plants, many species abound, but in no part of the Stc*te do they form a sod: the roots die out by the heat of summer, except with the "bunch grass," which grows in many parts of the whole Pacific coast, springing from the roots, and forming large and ' high clumps. It affords excellent pasturage, and the new crop is generated from the seeds which fall into the GRASSES, HAY, AND PASTURAGE. 169 crevices of the earth, and start immediately after the first rains in November. In February, March, April, May, and June, the whole country, hill-sides and valleys, seem to be covered with grass and clover, and for miles present a charming scene of shades and ridges of yellow, red, white, and variegated flowers. The v/ild oats, which seem to ^row everywhere, is a staple article of pasturage, and* is cut in great quantities for hay. Its growth is very luxuriant, in many places as dense and tall as the best fields of cultivated oats. In seventeen years residence or^ the Pacific coast, the author has never seen a spear of timothy grown in California : the dry seasons kill the roots. I do not believe there is a spear of it growing in the State, unless in some small valleys in the Sierras, or where it is constantly irrigated during the summer months. Wild oats, oats, and barley, cut green, form the staple " hay " of Cali- fornia ; and, strange to say, barley throughout the State is given to horses generally in preference to oats. Through Oregon and Washington Territory, timothy grows well ; some fields along the Columbia surpass- ing the finest growth of the Atlantic States. 170 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XV. Valleys — Trees, vegetables, fruits, flowers, grain, and grasses — Lakes — Alkaline and borax lakes — Dry lakes — Death valley. . VALLEYS. The vast and fertile valleys of California, stretching over a length of country of seven hundred miles, form the richest and most variegated agricultural district in the world, produce almost every species of tropical and semi-tropical trees, fruits, nuts, herbs, flowers, and grasses, and yield most abundantly of wheat, barley, potatoes, fruit, and vegetables. Nearly all the valleys of the State run parallel with the coast. The three chief are the San Joaquin, Sacra- mento, and Santa Clafa ; but the two last, in which are numerous others divided and subdivided within their general area of about five hundred miles in length by sixty in width, form the great agricultural field of Cali- fornia, completely enclosed between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range of mountains; these, running almost north and south for five hundred miles, nearly join by curving toward each other in Siskiyou county at the north, near the southern line of Oregon, and joining at the south in Los Angeles county, at Mount Pinos, leaving to the south and east of the Sierras the vast deserts and valleys of San Bernardino and San Diego counties, stretching east and south to the west- em line of Arizona, the river Colorado, and Lower California. A fuller description of the soil, area, &c., of these valleys will be found in- the chapter descriptive Pl^ o\ % V b si e] al at wi ta: Its do ea« clo anc CISC thn Ne^ dovi Kin thei tacl( as it shee west extei there of W£ Gc LAKES IN CALIFORNIA. 171 of the several counties and of the agricultural resources of the State. LAKES. / ■ There are twenty-two principal lakes in California, with an area of 29,641 square miles ; besides innumera- ble small ones, some of very respectable size, of con- siderable depth, and of great natural beauty. Some, elevated high in the Sierras, contain crystal water, with abundance of fish, while others, low in the alkaline flats, are so acrid and bitter that no animal life can be found within their waters, floating on their surface, or par- taking of their pungent fluid. Tulare Lake. — ^This lake is situated iu Tulare county, its southern line being the western boundary of a por- tion of Kern county. It is about seventy miles directly east from the town of San Louis Obispo, /hich lies close to the Pacific ocean, in the county of that name, and one hundred and eighty miles south from San Fran- cisco. This is the largest lake in the State, being thirty- three miles in length by twenty in width. The Sierra Nevada mountains being directly on the east of it, send down innumerable streams; many of which, such as Kings, Kern, and Elk, are of considerable size, and pour their floods into this lake, which forms the common recep- tacle of all the waters of a vast area of country. Strange as it may seem, there is no visible outlet to this great sheet of water. In the rainy season, the land upon the west and east sides, being low, is overflowed to a great extent, forming tule and swamp. It is supposed that there must be some subterranean outlet to this sheet of water. Goose Laxe. — ^This is second in size of all the lakes 172 THE GOLDEN STATE. in California, and is situated on the State lines of Oregon and California, about one-third in Oregon and two-thirds in California, in Siskiyou county, and about seventeen miles from the extreme northeast corner of the State. It is thirty-three miles in length by nine in breadth, and is surrounded by a richly timbered and agricultural country, but almost wholly uninhabited. Rhett Lake. — This lake is also in Siskiyou county, about eight miles east of Goose lake, and close to the Oregon State line. Its greatest length is about four- teen miles, and its width about eleven. Wright Lake — Also in Siskiyou county, is six miles directly east of Rhett lake, and four miles from the Oregon State line. It is ten miles in length by five in width. Alkali Lakes. — Three lakes, bearing each the name of Alkali, are situated in the eastern limit of Siskiyou county, and east of the Sierras., running more than three-fourths of the width of the county, in a northerly and southerly direction, close to the State line between California and Nevada, They are in one of the richest agricultural valleys in the State. Innumerable streams running from the north and west empty into them ; and, although these streams are of crystal purity, the water of the lakes is so alkaline that no living thing is found in them. Surprise valley, in which they are situated, contains some excellent agricultural land. The streams and lakes at certain seasons swarm with wild fowls, geese, ducks, and crane. The most northerly of these lakes is fifteen miles south of the northern boundary of the State ; its length is fifteen miles, and its width eight. The centre one is .i^ LAKES IN CALIFORNIA. /^ about three miles south of the northern one, and is six- teen miles in length and seven in width. The one farthest south is connected with the centre one by a strip of water of three miles in length. The lake is nine miles long and nine broad ; a portion of it is in the northeast corner of Lassen county. Lower Klamath Lake. — This lake is directly on the boundary line between California and Oregon — half in each State ; and is high in the Sierras amidst rugged hills and the desolate table-lands of Siskiyou county. Its extent is fifteen miles in length by r.ix in width, and is connected by a stream of five miles in length with Upper Klamath lake, lying directly north and in the State of Oregon, and with Rhett lake, in Siskiyou county, by a stream of nine miles in length. Lake Tahoe. — Fourth in size is this queen of the Sierras, whose frowning granite walls upon the one side and rich foliage upon the other have been the theme of romantic poets, enthusiastic tourists, and sighing lovers. It is situated high in the Sierras, one-half being upon each side of the boundary line between the States of California and Nevada, and partly in the counties of Placer and El Dorado. It is twenty-one miles in length by twelve in width, and 6,220 feet above the level of the sea, nestled up among the tall pines, firs, and oaks, and overtopped by the towering pinnacles and snow-capped crowns of the Sierras, which reflect their lengthened shadov^s upon its placid bosom, as the setting sun gilds in golden hues the rich, wild, but picturesque and beauti- ful scenery around. The wild and leaping surge and deafening roar of the Niagara may impress the beholder with the terrible power of Omnipotence ; but to fill the 174 THE GOLDEi^ STATE. soul with that sweet inspiration which calmly draws us into communion with the harmony of nature, the sublimity of perfection, and a contemplation of a better land, we must stand upon the silvery shores of Lake Tahoe, wliile, amidst a stillness sublime and awful, the rays of the morning sun like ribbons of gold dart through the chasms of the frowning mountains and through the dense forest, streaking v'th amber and golden sheen the placid blue waters, through whose transparent depths the landscape is mirrored below ; or, at the close of day, beneath the deep shadow of the stern Sierras, watch the mountain monarch as he comes from his forest glen to bathe his parch-^d lips in this grand aerial urn — God's fountain in the wilderness, to beautify His footstool and invigorate His creatures. But ILake Tahoe is not always dreamy, calm, and placid : her fair smiles are often converted into frowns terribly threatening and uneasy. When the storm- cloud breaks over the Sierras, and the snow-flakes fly fast before the thickening gale, she dashes her angry foam in seething, fitful wrath upon the heeding rocks and green sward on the shores, striking with terror the unfortunate navigator, who, with his frail craft, i^ often submerged beneath its whelming waters. The colors and transparency of this beautiful sheet of water are some of its principal attractions. The shore of the lake is a hard, grayish sand. The water, which is a pea-green, gradually deepens, leaving the bottom of the lake at eighty feet clearly visible ; at about half a mile from shore, the color ;changes to a deeper green, but from first tinged witii blue ; about one mile from shore, and where the shade is a very deep green, it suddenly changes to an almdst indigo-blue : the lines SENTINEL ROCK YoSEMITE VALLEY, (4,500 feet high above the Valley.) It h; angi *1«» LAKES IN CALIFORNIA. 175 of these three shades or colors are as distinctly drawn as if painted. For many years it had been supposed that thiB lake was bottomless ; but recent soundings establish its greatest depth to be about fifteen hundred feet. Several small boats ply on the lake, either to fish for trout, which are abundant, or for the recreation of the guests at the Tahoe House or Glenbrook House. A small steamer, the Governor Blaisdell, plies upon it, for the accommodation and pleasure of travellers. Coming years will behold this rare gem of nature and its gorgeous scenery as the recreation-ground and watering-place of happy throngs of health and pleasure seekers. Clear Lake and Borax Lake. — These sheets of water are in the centre of Lake county, about eighty miles directly north of San Francisco, forty miles from the ocean, east of the Coast Range, and about fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. The greatest length of Clear lake is about twenty miles ; at both ends it is about eight miles in width, but contracts in the centre to about three miles, tlose to the eastern side of this lake is Borax or Kayser lake, covering a surface of from two hundred to four hundred acres, according to the season. Great quantities of pure borax of the best quality are taken from the bottom of thin lake. Mirror Lake. — This fascinating miniature lake, situ- ated in the famed Yosemite valley, formed by the spent waters of the Yosemite falls, bathes the foot of the North Dome, and covers a surface of about eight acres. It is noted for its transparent beauty. Here the over- hanging mountains, trees, and foliage are all mirrored 176 THE GOLDEN STATE. in the water below, as clear and lifelike as they stand upon its banks. Owens Lake. — ^This lake is in Inyo county, two hun- dred and sixty miles southeast from San Francisco, and directly east of the principal chain of the Sierra Nevadas, in a country generally desolate and of little agricultural value. The extent of the lake is eighteen miles in length by eight in width. Owens river, a stream of pure water and considerable value, running from north to south, empties into this lake, the waters of which are so impregnated with alkali and chloride of soda that it is unfit for man or beast. Like most of the lakes in the southern section of the State it has no visible outlet, and is supposed to have some subterranean passage to the Pacific ocean. Fall Lake. — This lake is situated in the extreme northeast corner of Shasta county. It is about four miles in length and three in width, and is in Fall River valley. Swan Lake. — Swan lake is In the western border of Lassen county, close to Plumas county. It is six miles in length and three in width, and high among the hills of the Sierras. Eagle Lake. — Eagle lake is centred in Lasisen county. It is of very irregular shape, and, like Swan Lake, is high in the mountains. It is twelve miles in length and about eight in width. Its waters are shallow. Honey Lake — Is twenty miles northeast from Eagle lake, is in Lassen county, and eight miles west of the boundary line between California and Nevada. It is very irregular in shape ; is fifteen miles in length and mil tweJ^ coun a-haJ Hi the Sierrj scene LAKES m CALIFORNIA. n nine in width. Its water is very shallow and of a saltish taste. It is situated in Honey Lake valley, a rich meadow and farming district ; numerous streams empty into it, but it has no visible outlet. It derives its name from the honey-dew deposited upon the shrubbery and grass in its vicinity, by the honey-dew aphis, a species of bee sometimes found in desert and barren regions. DoNNER Lake. — ^This beautiful sheet of water is in the southeastern corner of Nevada county, east of the main ridge of the Sierras, and twelve miles northwest of Lake Tahoe. It is four miles in length and one in width. The scenery and natural beauty of this lake are unsurpassed in the State; its shores are fast becoming a fashionable place of resort to the lovers of rural beauty. Clear Lake. — Clear lake is near the southeast ^n'^L of El Dorado county, sixteen miles south of Lake Tahoe, It is high in the Sierras, and its surroundings are beautifully picturesque. The area of this lake is two miles in length and one in width Truckee Lake. — ^Truckee lake is a small but beautiful sheet of water in the Sierra mountains, sixteen miles directly west of the eastern boundary of the State, and twelve miles northwest of Donner lake. It is in Sierra county, close to its southern line; is about one and a-half miles in length and three-quarters in width. Highland Lakes. — ^These are three lakes almost in the centre of Alpine county, on a high ridge of the Sierras, surrounded by most gorgeous and imposing scenery of deep forest and beautiful meadow. The 12 178 THE GOLDEN STATE, waters of these lakes are clear and of great depth. They are about one and a-quarter miles in length each, and about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, and within one and a-half miles of each other. Lake Elenor. — ^This is the principal lake in Tuolumne county, about eight miles from the northern line of Mariposa county, and a few miles from where the Tuo- lumne river falls twelve hundred feet. It is perched high in the rugged Sierras; is about two miles in length and one mile in width. Mono Lake. — Mono lake is one of the most remark- able sheets of water in the world. It is situated in the northern part of Mono county, east of the Sierras, and nine miles west of the eastern State line, and one hun- dred and sixty-two miles due east from San Francisco. It is thirteen miles in length and eight miles in width. There are several islands in it ; the two principal ones close together in its centre are two miles each in length and a mile in width. The lake is supposed to occupy the bed of an ancient crater, and its waters to be one thou- sand feet lower than formerly. Numerous streams empty into this lake, yet its water Is so bitter and so impregnated with lime, salt, borax, and carbonate of soda that no living thing exists beneath or floats upon it; its surface is a kind of oily fluid, over which the winds pass without causing a ripple. The wild fowls which inhabit the marshes and streams in its vicinity never light upon or touch its waters. From its bottom are thrown volumes of water, from boiling springs beneath, with such violence that a boat cannot be kept upon its surface. From the principal island in this lake open angry LAKES IN CALIFORNIA. 179 mouths, from which are emitted gusts of steam, gas, and smoke, which attest the unquenched fires below. The deserted aspect of its surroundings, the volcanic cones which lift their beetling heads thousands of feet above the sterile scene, all lend an aspect of desolation, well entiding this cauldron to the name of the "Dead Sea." It would be well to notice here that one sign of life, and one only, is visible in this lake. In summer a small fly deposits its eggs upon the oily surface ; soon, millions of small, whitish worms float thereon, drifting in windrows upon the shore, when they are gathered by the Indians, who make them a staple of food and consider them a luxury. Guadalupe Lake — Is situated in the extreme western corner of Santa Barbara county, a little less than one mile from the Pacific ocean. It is a long, narrow sheet of water lying in a valley, extending in a westerly and easterly direction seven miles, and is about one mile in width. BuENAVESTA Lake. — ^This lake is in the Tulare valley in Kern county, eleven miles from its western line. It is nine miles in length and four and one-half miles in width. Kern Lake. — Directly east of Buenavesta lake, and connected by a narrow strip of water of about four miles in length, is Kern lake ; its course being east and west, about eight miles in length and three and a-half in width. Both this and Buenavesta lake are connected by streams with Tulare lake, which is about forty-three miles north of them. i8o THE GOLDEN STATE. Dry Lakes. — From the western line of Los Angeles county on the Pacific ocean to the eastern boundary line of this State, in the centre of Inyo county, a distance of two hundred and twenty miles, thence southerly to the extreme southern boundary of the State, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, a distance of three hun- dred miles from Inyo county, and embracing the counties of San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles, and the southern portions of Kern and Inyo, there is not a single lake of any size, although this area contains sixty thousand square miles, or more than one-third of the area of the whole State. The Sierra Nevada moun- tains are lost before they reach this tract, which, on its eastern line, is a dreary waste of alkaline plains and jagged volcanic peaks. A great portion of this area was at some remote period covered with water, as the numerous beds of dry lakes attest Thc^e are eighteen of these lake-beds now dry in this tract, with an area of sixteen thousand five hundred square miles, includ- ing Death Valley ^ in the western corner of San Bernar- dino and the south end of Inyo county, and twelve miles from the eastern State line, embracing an area of forty miles in length and ten miles in width, a great portion of which is one hundred and fifty feet below the level of the sea, an ash-bed of burning sands and alkali dust lie. DONNF.R I.AKR, AND RAILROAD TUNNEL, SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. (6,cno feet abovt! the sea.) Ri dr< ma me of Go] S rive the stre; mou in a coun "able and passe Coluj Sacra into S the B gener to Sai forty ] about east t< RIVEHS IN CALIFORNIA, IRI CHAPTER XVI. Rivers— Tays— Harbors— Bay of San Francisco— Puget sound- Fort Point— Straits— San Quentin— Islands— Seal Rock— Cliff House — Sea-lions — Golden Gate : origin of the name. RIVERS. In the whole coast line of California of seven hun- dred miles there are no rivers of any considerable magnitude or navigable importance, except the Sacra- mento and San Joaquin, and they empty into the Bay of San Francisco and have their outlet through the Golden Gate. Sacramento River. — This is the principal navigable river in the State ; its source is high in the Sierras, in the northern part of Shasta county, fed by innumerable streams which dash wildly through deep cafions and mountain gorges, falling more than five thousand feet in five miles. After reaching the lower agricultural country, it flows in a meandering stream of consider- able magnitude, skirted by willows, oaks, cottonwood, and sycamore trees. In its serpentine windings, it passes through the counties of Shasta, Tehama, and Colusa, forming the county line between Sutter, Yolo, Sacramento, Contra Costa, and Solano, where it empties into Suisun bay, then into San Pablo bay, and through the Bay of San Francisco to the Golden Gate. Its general course is from north to south from its source to Sacramento City, which is about two hundred and forty miles; and from Sacramento to San Francisco, about one hundred and twenty miles, its course is from east to west Steamers drawing three feet of water l82 THE GOLDEN STATE. run from San Francisco to Sacramento, and those drawing fifteen inches run from Sacramento to Red Bluff, in Tehama county, two hundred and forty-seven miles from San Francisco. • San Joaquin River. — ^The source of this river is in the Sierras, in an opposite direction from that of the Sacramento, and in the extreme eastern part of Fresno county. Its course is from east to west, and for its first fifty miles it is fed by a number of mountain streams, which are of great volume and rush in precipitous descent through dark and frowning caftons. Passing through the western part of Fresno county, it reaches the fertile San Joaquin valley, through which it passes directly in the centre of Merced, Stanislaus, and San Joaquin counties, finally emptying into the Sacramento at Suisun bay. Steamers drawing five feet of w?t'^»' nm upon this river to Stockton, at the head of tide navi- gation, one hundred and iwenty miles from San Fran- cisco, and boats of lighter draught ascend much higher up the river. Feather River. — ^Thls river has its source in the rugged Sierras, in Plumas county, and is fed by numer- ous crystal streams which leap in wild cascades down abrupt descents through Plumas and Butte counties, until it reaches Oroville and Marysville : thirty miles below the latter it joins the Sacramento. Steamboats of light draught run from Sacramento to Marysville, a distance of fifty miles. The general course of the stream is in a southwesterly direction. The beds of this stream and its tributaries have produced millions of gold. It is not navigable. Yuba River. — rThis river, which empties into the and Ki voluj porti^ For and cours RIVERS IN CALIFORNIA. 183 Feather river at Marysville, has its source in the Sierras in the eastern part of Nevada county, and near the eastern boundary of the State. Its course through Nevada and Yuba counties is among deep ravines and gulches, and over the repositories of millions of gold. It is not navigable. American River. — The American river, so famous in early days for its gold deposits, has its source near Lake Tahoe in the Sierras. It runs almost due west, and forms the line between the counties of El Dorado and Placer. It is a dashing stream, often passing through deep ravines and dark, shady forests. Running through the lower portions of Sacramento county, it winds slowly through the plain until it meets the Sacramento just above Sacramento City. It is not navigable. There are a number of rivers emptying into the San Joaquin, having their source high in the Sierras, and running over and through deep gorges and canons toward the south, and averaging from one hundred to one hundred and twenty miles in length ; many of them are of great beauty and volume : among these are the Cosumnes, Mokalumne^ Calaveras., Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and Merced. King's River. — King's river is a stream of much volume. Its source is in the Sierras in the eastern portion of Fresno county, and south of the San Joaquin. For the first fifty miles it rushes over precipitous rocks and mountain gorges; striking the Tulare valley, it courses sluggishly through the tule swamps until it empties into Tulare lake. This river is about ninety- five miles in length. i84 THE GOLDEN STATE. %^ Kern and Bravo Rivers. — Both these rivers have their source in the lower end of the Sierra range, in the eastern part of Tulare county. They carry a consider- able body of* water through rough canons and gorges, until they meet the tule lands of Kern county, v.'here they empty into Kern lake, from which to their source they are more than one hundred and twenty miles in length. Owens River. — ^This river issues from the White and Palisade mountains, east of the Sierras and close to the eastern line of the State, in Mono county , hundreds of little streams from both sides of these mountains swell its volume, its -ourse being southwest, until it empties into Owens lake. This river is about one hundred miles in length, but is not navigable. MoHAVA River. — The Mohava river Issues from the San Bernardino mountains in the western part of San Bernardino county, sixty miles east from the Pacific ocean. Its course is nearly southeast a distance of one hundred miles, where it is lost in the Sink of the Mohava, in the southeastern section of San Bernardino county. Coast Rivers. — The rivers emptying into the Pacific ocean, with the exception of those principal ones whose outlet is through the Golden Gate, are but few, and not one navigable except for a short distance by small craft of light draught. There are seven small streams that empty into the ocean from San Diego county, the most southern county of the State; none of them a e of much importance, the greatest being about sixty miles in length. They are not navigable. San Dieg >, San Bernardino, San Louis Rey, and Margarita a'e the principal ones in this county. CaI have the C aboul they south They Sal RIVERS IN CALIFORNIA. 185 Six small avers and numerous creeks find their way from the Coast Range to the Pacific, the entire length of the State ; six have an outlet through Los Angeles county : none of them are navigable. Santa Ana and San Gabriel are the chief ones, the former being about fifty miles in length. The Los Angeles is a branch, of considerable magnitude, of the San Gabriel ; its course is from east to west. In Santa Barbara county there are bu three rivers : they have their source in the Coast Range and empty into the Pacific ocean : none of them are of any impor- tance. The Santa Clara, in the southern part of the county, has its source in the northern part of Los Angeles county ; its length is about fifty miles. The Santa Inez, running almost due west and emptying into the Pacific ocean near the northern line of Santa Bar- bara county, is about seventy miles in length, and is fed by innumerable streams. Santa Maria or Cuyama River. — This river liac its source in the eastern portion of Santa Barbara county, and forms the western line of that county for almost oi\e hundred miles in its serpentine course in a direct westerly line cO the Pacific ocean, where it empties at the Bay 01 San Louis. It is not a navigable stream. Carmel and San Jose Rivers. — These two rivers have their source in Saint Lucia mountains, a chain of the Coast Range, in Monterey county. They are each about fourteen miles in length. Running northwest, they empty into the Pacific at Cannel bay, four miles south of the town of Monterey, in Monterey count)^*• They are not navigable. Salinas River. — This is the only stream of any im- i86 THE GOLDEN STATE. portance west of the Santa Inez to this point. Its source is in the rugged Santa Barbara mountains, in the lower end of San Louis Obispo county, through the corner of which it passes in a northwesterly course the entire length of the county, thence through the centre of Monterey county to the Bay of Monterey and the Pacific ocean, where it finds an outlet. Its course for its entire length of about two hundred miles is alofr the coast line about lift)' miles from the ocean; it is fed by numerous streams which water the fertile Salinas valley. Pajaro River. — This stream has Its source In the southern section of the Mount Diablo mountains, in the southern part of Santa Clara county, running almost west. It forms the boundary line between the counties of Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, and Monterey. It is about forty miles in length, and empties into Monterey bay about twenty miles south ot the town of Santa Cruz. It is not navigable. The San Felipe is considerable of a stream, having its source in Santa Clara county, and emptying mto the Pajaro river. San Benito river has Its source about the middle of Monterey county, nmning parallel with the ocean north- west for sixty miles ; it empties into the Pajaro fourteen miles from its mouth. San Lorenzo River. — The San Lorenzo Is the only river in Santa Cruz county. It has its origin in the .Coast Range, and runs south a di: t-anr*^ oj about fifteen "miles and directly south of the tow i of S?'.-:. Cruz, where it empties into the Pacific ocean. From this point northward along Santa Cruz, San Mateo, and crossing Ra; gul( niaJd whf( The I fn^ the RIVERS IN CALIFORNIA. IS7 i le In ^» \t IS the Golden Gate, thence the length of Marin county^ there is not a stream of any note until reaching a third of the length of Sonoma county. Russian RiVER.-^This r; ver rushes down in consider- able volume through the rugged peaks and canons of the Coast Range; its source is midway in the county of Mendocino, and it is fed by a number of streams. For seventy miles its course is almost due south, when, at a point in Sonoma county, six miles from the northern corner of Napa county, it turns suddenly toward the west ; passing through the centre of Sonoma county, it dashes in serpentine course through gu) :hes of the Coast Range until it empties into the Pacific ocean. West- ward from this point, for almost three degrees of lati- tude, along the northern half of Sonoma county, all of Mendocino county, and the southern half of Humboldt county, the whole coast line is indented with small rivers and creeks, none of which are of any importance ; Wallahalliu, in Sonoma county, and Nevar^'o, Albion, Grande, and Noyo, in Mendocino county, and Mattole and Bern' rivers, in Humboldt "lounty, being the chief ones, none of which are navigable. Eel River. — The source of this river is In the Coast Range, In the centre of Mendocino county, more than one hundred and twenty miles from where it reaches the Pacific ocean. Hundreds of streams pour down the gulches and through the forests to join it on its course, making Mendocino and Humboldt counties through which they flow the best-watered sections of the State. The course of the Eel river Is directly northwest, follow- ing the course of the coast, about twenty-five miles from the ocean, until It empties Into the Pacific five miles south 1 88 THE GOLDEN STATE. of Humboldt bay, in Humboldt county. From this point north for twenty miles, to the northern boundary of Humboldt county, there are six rivers, all small ; the two principal ones. Elk and Jacoly^ empty into Hum- boldt bay ; i ^T' mboldt county. Mad Rivek. Five miles north of Humboldt bay, and at the northern boundary of Humboldt county, is the oudet of Mad river, which has its source in the southern corner of Trinity county, from whence, through the lower part of this county and the northern half of Humboldt county, it courses in a northwesterly direc- tion, and on a parallel with Eel river at a distance of eighteen miles to the northeast. It is fed in its course of almost one hundred m'les by numbers of streams shooting forth from the deep forests and canons of Humboldt county, until it pours its volume into the Pacific ocean five miles north of Humboldt bay. Little River. — Eight miles north of Mad river, and in the southern part of Klamath county, is this stream, running due west from the Coast Range to the Pacific ; it is about fifteen miles from its source to its mouth. Redwood Creek. — Twenty miles farther north, in Kl; math county, is Redwood creek, having its source in the northern part of Humboldt county, and running northwest a distance of forty miles ; passing through the forests and canons of the western side of Klamath county, it empties into the Pacific ocean eighteen miles south of Klamath river, at a point called Gold Bluff. Klamath River. — This river has its source in the northern portion of California among the Sierras and lakes, directly on the Oregon and California State line, Ti^ ern cours throuj westel ^nterj it emj moutl Noi that ml Smit RIVERS IN CALIFORNIA. 189 many of its branches pushing far into the southern part of Oregon. It crosses the Oregon line and enters California in a well-defined stream in Siskiyou county, one hundred miles due east from the northern State line, on the Pacific ocean. From this point it courses in a rapid and dashing volume through the northern end of Siskiyou county, crosses the southern corner of Del Norte county, down to the lower part of Klamath county, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles : in this course it has gathered great volume and force from the numerous tributaries of the dense forest and mountains of this section of country. Twelve miles from the southern line cf Klamath county, it turns suddenly from its course of southeast to northwest, crosses again in an opposite course the northern line of Klamath county, eighteen miles from the ocean, enters the southern line of Del Norte county, which it follows, still in its north- westerly direction, for eighteen miles, when it empties into the Pacific. From the ocean, for forty miles, it is navigable for steamers of light draught. At this point is the mouth of the Trinity River. — Having its source in the northeast- ern corner of Trinity county, it winds its serpentine course through its rocky and precipitous channels through half the length of that county, in a south- westerly direction ; then, suddenly turning northwest, enters the southern portion of Klamath county, where it empties into the Klamath river forty miles from its mouth. North of Klamath river, and the only one north of that in the State, is Smith River. — This river rises in the northern part 190 THE GOLDEN STATE. of Del Norte county, close to the Oregon line. It is joined in its course by innumerable streams from both sides. Its direction is due west for twenty miles from its source, when it turns northwest and empties into the Pacific ocean close to the northern State boundary in latitude forty-two. Pitt River. — Pitt river has its source in Siskiyou county, in the Warren range of mountains, near Goose lake. Its course is in a southwesterly direction through Siskiyou county, across the northwestern portion of Lassen county, into the northeastern corner of Shasta county, where it merges into the principal branch of the Sacramento river. Its length from its source to this point is aboui. oneliundred miles ; 'it passes tiirough a rugged and mountainous country. Scott and Shasta Rivers. — ^These two rivers are of considerable volume in the spring time. They run west through the northwestern corner of Shasta county, and empty into the Klamath river. Their length each is about thirty miles. BAYS AND HARBORS. From the southwest line of the State to its northern boundary, a distance of eight hundred miles, there are but three first-class harbors — the Bay of San Francisco and the harbors of San Diego and Humboldt. Besides these there are fifteen bays and harbors, chiefly open roadsteads or inlexs: none of these are sufficiently secure in all kinds of weather, or of sufficient depth, to afford protection or render them attractive as places of resort for shipping. Aside from these bays th^^re are almost innumerable rivers and indentations in the coast point, I it by inlet ^ormec length I BAYS AND HARBORS IN CALIFORNIA. 191 where small craft can seek shelter in cases of emer- gency, and to and from which an active coast-trade is carried on by small steamers and sailing craft. The bays and harbors of the coast are here described, commencing at San Diego, and following the line of the coast north to the northern boundary of the State. San Diego Harbor. — ^This is the most southerly har- bor on the coast of California. It is twelve miles north of the line between California and Mexico, in San Diego county, and about four hundred and forty-six miles south of San Francisco. A broad channel of thirty feet depth of water leads into this fine harbor, which is completely landlocked, with good anchorage, and a length of twelve miles and from two to three miles in width. Large steamers ply between San Francisco and this port, which is fast becoming, of commercial importance. The town of San Diego is situated on the northern end of the bay. The next harbor northward is San Pedro Bay. — This bay is situated near thfe centre of Los Angeles county, on the coast, three hundred and seventy-five miles south of San Francisco. This harbor is exposed to the south winds, which render it very unsafe in winter. The water for two miles from 'shore is shal- low, lighters having to be used to discharge cargo. An inlet from this bay, with Deadman's island near its mouth, forms the entrance to Wilmington, a thriving town. The town of Los Angeles is directly east from this point, about twenty miles inland, and is connected with it by a railroad. Anaheim Landing is formed by an inlet from this bay, which is only* an open roadstead formed by a projecting cape. Northward, for the entire length of Santa Barbara county, there is not a single 192 THE GOLDEN STATE. bay of any importance, although there are several inlets suited to coasting vessels. San Louis Bay. — ^This bay is on an open roadstead, in the southern end of San Louis Obispo county, formed by Point San Louis, extending out about five miles. There is good anchorage, but the harbor, if it can be so called, is sheltered only from north winds. It is about two hundred miles south of San Francisco. EsTERO Bay. — Sixteen miles north of San Louis bay is Estero bay. The main bay is an open roadstead ; but Moro Rock, running out for about four miles, forms a bay of three miles in length, secure from all winds except the westerly. It is in about the centre of the coast line of San Louis Obispo county ; it affords good shelter, and has sufficient depth of water. Carmelo Bay. — This little bay is directly south of Cypress Point, the most prominent headland of Monte- rey county, and about four miles south of the town and harbor of Monterey. It is about three miles in length and two in width; has deep water, but is exposed to the south and west winds. The ruins of the old mission of San Carlos are here. The bay possesses much natural beauty, but is of little commercial importance. Four miles north of this is Monterey Bay. — It is formed by an oblong indenta- tion in the coast in the north end of Monterey county, and the southern end of Santa Cruz county. It is ninety miles south of San Francisco. The bay is twenty-five miles wide, and twelve miles in a line from the outer points of Cypress on the south and Santa Cruz on the north. At its southern limit is the town tiid landing of hot ba) tow twe the larg is a B.^ end Mom open and small, comm lime - beside countr betwee distant Cruz is ward ij Hai. toast, p point, b it is of vessels Francisc rounded Spanish ^•"om the ^larbor i? BA yS AND HARBORS IN CALIFORNIA. 193 of Monterey, close to which, on Point Pinos, is a light house. The Salinas river empties into the centre of this bay, at the western extremity of which is situated the town. The towns of Santa Cruz and Monterey are twenty-five miles apart across the bay, which is open to the south and west, but has a sufficient depth of water : large steamers and sailing craft enter this bay. There is a brisk trade between San Francisco and this place. Bay of Santa Cruz. — It is situated in the southern end of Santa Cruz county, and the northern part of Monterey bay, of which it is almost a part. It is but an open roadstead, exposed to the south and west winds, and on that account is not safe at all times. The bay is small, but has very deep water; and is of considerable commercial importance, in consequence of extensive lime - kilns, powder and paper mills, and tanneries ; besides being the outlet of a rich agricultural section of country. Steamers and sailing vessels ply regularly between this port and San Francisco, from which it is distant eighty miles south. The thriving town of Santa Cruz is situated at its head. The next harbor north- ward is in San Mateo county. Half-moon Bay. — It is a small indentation in the coast, protected from the north winds by a projecting point, but exposed to the south and west. As a harbor it is of litde importance. Small steamers and sailing vessels of light draught run between this point and San Francisco, which is forty-six miles north. It is sur- rounded by a rich agricultural valley and rolling hills. Spanish Town, a small village, is inland about two miles from the bay. Following the coast line north the next harbor is the ■I 194 THE GOLDEN STATE. Bay of San Francisco — Which has its outlet through the Golden Gate, and which, for size, depth, ease of entrance, and security, is unsurpassed in the world, ex- cepting by Puget sound in Washington Territory. The Goldfen Gate, or entrance to the Bay of San Fran- cisco, is situated in latitude 37° 48' north, and longitude 122° 30' west from Greenwich. The discovery of this bay will be found treated of in another chapter. The entrance to the bay is through a passage running due east for a distance of five miles in length, and is about two miles wide; this passage and the bay inside are of great depth and of easy access, there being thirty feet of Water at low tide. On die northern side of the en- trance rise almost perpendicular, dark, and frowning rocks, to a height of three thousand feet, where, at Point Bonita, is a light-hotise. On the southern side, at the entrance, is built, in the solid rock, at Fort Point, a strong fortification, completely guarding the entrance. From this point to San Francisco is a range of rolling and grassy hills, a great part of the small valleys being covered with mountains of white and drifting sands. Six miles from the entrance of the Golden Gate is the city of San Francisco. Here the bay turns south- ward in the direction of San Jose for thirty miles, form- ing a peninsula between it and the Pacific ocean, upon which is the city and county of San Francisco. The bay at its widest point between San Francisco and San Jose is twelve miles ; at Oakland, directly east of San Francisco on the opposite side of the bay, it is eight miles in width. Coursing west from San Francisco the bay extends north until it meets San Pablo bay, form- ing a continuous sheet of water west of San Francisco of thirty miles in length and twelve miles at its widest ^^n £AyS AND HARBORS IN CALIFORNIA. 195 point ; thus making this landlocked ocean sixty miles running north and south and about nine miles in width. At the northeastern portion of San Francisco bay are Mare straits. Here is situated the town of Vallejo, on the west side of Solano county. Directly opposite Vallejo is the United States navy-yard on Mare island. At these places there are deep water and safe anchorage. Passing through the Straits of Cai-quines, a narrow pas- sage of eight miles, in an easterly direction, is met Siiisim bay, extending ten miles in length. Here the Sacra- mento and San Joaquin rivers empty their great volumes received from the vast interior of the State through a thousand tributary streams, all finding their way through the Golden Gate. On the north of San Pablo bay, and east from San Francisco thirty miles, are the counties of Napa and Sonoma; and on the west side the county of Marin, being the northern peninsula which, at the entrance of the Bay of San Francisco, forms its northern rock- bound wall ; in this county, on the bay, twelve miles from San Francisco, is the State prison at San ' 'r.entin. There are several islands in the Bay of San Fran- cisco. Alcatraz island, six miles from the entrance — the Golden Gate — is in the centre of the channel : a solid rock of sixteen hundred feet in length and four hundred and fifty feet in width, and about one hundred and thirty-five feet above the level of the sea. It is a strong fortress, bristling with heavy artillery from granite walls ; and, in conjunction v/ith the heavy arma- ment at Fort Point, and Black Point between Fort Point and San Francisco, is a complete harbor-defence. Angel island, close to Marin county, directly north of Alcatraz and four miles from San Francisco, contains 196 THE GOLDEN STATE, about eight hundred acres, chiefly good land ; strong fortifications have been built here recently. Directly in the line between San Francisco and Oak- land, midway in the bay, is Verba Buena, or Goat island. It is less in size than Angel island, and is held by the United States as a military station, although no troops have ever been stationed there. A bridge of consider- able length extends from Oakland toward this island, this bridge being the terminus of the overland railroad. Four miles north of Angel island is Red Ro ''. Further north, in San Francisco bay, is Bird Rock the Two Sisters. There are other small islands and rocks in the bay, but not of sufficient importance to merttion. About a mile south of the Golden Gate is Seal Rocky a clump of jagged rocks standing high above the sea, worn and scarred by the incessant dashing of the waves, which in stormy weather break over them with terrible fury ; the roar of the waters can often be heard at San Fi'ancisco, a distance of eight miles. These rocks in calm weather are a source of great interest owing to the immense seals, frequently called sea-lions, which continually crawl up their rugged sides and bask upon them, keeping up a constant howl, much to the amuse- ment and wonderment of the visitors at the Cliff House, who, upon the balcony, level their glasses upon them. Some of these animals are as large as an ox. They are protected by law from the sportsman's slaughter. The name Golden Gate is applied to the entrance of the Bay of San Francisco. Many attempts have been made to ascertain the origin of this name and its appli- cation to this passage, but all without satisfactory results, few writers going beyond the year 1847, when 5. « 2. " a (T) U 3 § \ the r for7i\ the c In ki-un lived word: huma mode Cisco, ''The. first n heavei attend immor lowest hfe on and ei prophe the "Ic covery Golden The IOI2 B and thii proud J^ What applied althoug] CaHforn this gate port in t The e BAYS AND HAHBO'-'S IN CALIFORNIA. 197 the name appears in the ^'Geographical Memoir of Cali- for7iia',' written by John C. Fremont, who had explored the country. In *' The Book 0/ Constant Purity** ascribed to Lau- ki-un, a Chinese philosopher, who is supposed to have lived more than fourteen centuries before Christ, the words gciden gate are first found in the records of the human family, and indeed nowhere else, except in modern writings pertaining to the harbor of San Fran- cisco, is the name found. A Chinese sage, speaking of "The Book of Constant Purity" says : " Scholars of the first rank, if they understand it, will be raised to become heavenly rulers. Those of the second rank, if they attend to its instructions, will be placed among uie immortal sages of the southern palace. Those of the lowest class, if they obiain this book, will enjoy long life on earth, roam at will through the three worlds, and enter the Golden Gate." Whether or no this prophetic allusion applies to the hundred thousand, of the " lower class," o; Chinese who have, since the dis- covery of the precious metals in California, entered the Golden Gate is left to the judgment of the reader. The great temple of Solom( n, which was begun 1012 B. C, was ornameniecl with the precious metals, and this with other edifices and palaces erected by this proud king are said to have had " gates of gold." Whatever the origin of the name, Golden Gate, as applied to the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, although applied long before the discovery of gold in California, is certainly most appropriate, for through this gate has passed more gold than through any other port in the world. The early navigator or explorer, after the perils of a 198 THE GOLDEN STATE. tedious sea-voyage or the trials of the arid plains and the frosts of the stern Sierras, when first beholding the beautiful Bay of San Francisco, burnished like molten gold with the bright sun of a California sky, might well exclaim, Chrysorrhoas ! (Golden Stream,) the name ap- plied to a beautiful river in Syria near Damascus; or the name might have been suggested to some navi- gator by Chrysoceras, (Horn of Gold,) a name applied to the harbor of Byzantium. BoLiNAS Bay. — Ten miles north of the Bay of San Francisco is Bolinas bay, formed by a projecting point of rocks, on the west side of Marin county. It is shel- • tered only from the north and west, and is of little importance except for small coast-traders. Drake's Bay. — This famous historic bay is the place visited by Sir Francis Drake in 1579, and which some supposed was the Bay of San Francisco, It is directly south of the long projecting Point Reyes, in Marin county, and thirty miles north of the Golden Gate; is of considerable size, and well sheltered from the west and north, but is of little value as a commercial port. ToMALES Bay. — Eighteen miles north of Drake's bay, and fc-ty-eight miles north of the Golden Gate, in Marin county, near the northern end of the county, is thirj bay. It is less than a mile in width, having eleven feet of water at low tide; it is fifteen miles in length, heading southeast and parallel with the Coast Range. It is sheltered from all winds and perfectly landlocked. The surrounding country is a rich agricultural and grazing district, and a lively coast-trade is carried on between this point and San Francisco BAYS AND HARBORS IN CALIfORNiA. 199 BoDEGO Bay. — Six miles directly north of Tomales bay, and where the southern corner of Sonoma county reaches the Pacific ocean, is this little bay, formed by a projecting point. It is well sheltered from the north and west, but is open to the southwest. It is only about two miles in length and one and a-half in width, with nine f^et of water at low tide. A small Russian settlement was established here in 181 2, which was not abandoned until 1 841 . An active coasting and produce trade is carried on from this port to San Francisco. From this point north and along the coast for one hun- dred and seventy miles there is not a single harbor or safe entrance for a vessel of large size. This space embraces the northern half of Sonoma county, all of Mendocino and the greater \ A Humboldt county. In this space there are numerous iivcrs and small inlets, to and from which an active lumber and produce tra le is carried on with San Francisco. Iin is on Humboldt Bay. — North of the Golden Gat" two hundred and twenty-three miles, and in the northern part of Humboldt county, is Humboldt bay, enterincr the coast where the dense forests of firs and pines i,n- v' to the water's edge. The passage in is about a quarter of a mile wide and about half a mile long, having eighteen feet of water at low tide; inside, the bay swells north and south for six miles in each direction, leaving a narrow peninsula between it and the ocean. The bay inside is twelve miles from north to south, and about four in width ; it is completely landlocked, and is one of the most secure harbors in the State. Steamers and ships of all classes enter this bay, many of the lat- ter loading lumber and spars for foreign and domestic ti ^ 200 THE GOLDEN STATE. ports. The town of Eureka is situated on the inside of the bay. On the northern side of the entrance there is a good light-house ; there are also substantial tug- boats on the bay. This harbor wa** not discovered until 1850. Trinidad Bay. — ^Twenty miles north of Humboldt, and in the southern end of Klamath county, is Trinidad bay. It is an open roadstead, formed by a projecting cape toward the west ; it is exposed to the south and west winds, and on that account is not a safe harbor. It is small, but has good anchorage and plenty of water. The town of Trinidad is located at its head, is in the midst of a timbered district, and an active trade is car- ried on in timber from this port. It is two hundred and forty-three miles north from San Francisco. Crescent City Harbor. — This is the farthest harbor north upon the coast of California, forty-seven miles north of Trinidad and two hundred and ninety north of San Francisco. It is an open roadstead, formed by the projecting Cape of St. George, extending westward about a mile. It is in about the centre of Del Norte county, and seventeen miles south of the northern State line. One mile from shore the depth of water is only twelve feet; vessels of any considerable size must dis* charge by lighters, but for vessels of light draught there is good wharf accommodati( >n, and a considerable coast-trade is carried on between this point and San Francisco by steamer and sailing craft. Immense quan- tities of fir, pine, and redwood lumber leave this port. It is also the most northern point of egress and ingress to and from the mines ir; this section of the State and £AYS AND HARBORS IN CALIFORNIA. 2CZ in southern Oregon. Crescent Cit^ is located upon its nortliern beach. Pelican Bay. — A sort of bend in the coast forms this bay ; it is directly north of Crescent City, in the forty- second parallel of north latitude, the boundary between California and Oregon passing directly through its centre. A lagjon, six miles in length, and Smith river empty into it in the northern corner of Del Norte county. The Coquette river in Oregon, just north of the State line, also empties into this bay, which is an open roadstead, and not sheltered except by the coast on the east: it has no advantages as a harbor. 202 THE GOLDEN STATS, CHAPTER XVII. Islands oif the coast — Farallones — Islands in bays and rivers- First mint in California — Indian tribes — Shell money — Springs — Petroleum — Mud springs — Calistoga springs — Sulphur springs — Soda springs — ^Tar springs — ^Asphaltum — Geysers. ISLANDS. The islands of the coast line of California are few, considering the great distance from San Diego to Hum- boldt. In the entire lengfth of the State there are but seven islands of any importance, and these are at its southern end, the farthest north being off the county of Santa Barbara in latitude thirty-four degrees, and all within a coast line of seventy miles, leaving eight de- grees of latitude, or more than five hundred and fifty miles of coast, from Santa Barbara to the Oregon line^ without a single island except the Farallones, a clump of rugged rocks off the Golden Gate. Besides the islands off the coast there are several inside the Golden Gate; these are described in the chapter treating upon the Bay of San Francisco. The islands of the coa^t will here be described in their order, commencing with the most southerly and continuing northward. San Clement Island. — This is the most southerly island of the coast. It is directly in the thirty-third degree of north latitude, and is forty-three miles distant from the coast of Los Angeles county; is twenty miles in length and five in vldth. There is but litde good agricultural or grazing land upon this island ; its general /■//" THE SOUTH FARALLONE ISLAND, PROM THE BIG ROOKERY, LOOKING SOUTH. (Six barren rock islands. Twenty-five miles due west of the Golden Gate in the Pacific Ocean. SEA LIONS AND THEIR YOUNG, VICINITY OF THE GOLDEN GATE, CALIFORNIA (These Sea Liuns weigh from 2,000 to 5,000 pounds each.) chan are o Sa midw Los 1 about in ler good has be of the above and C island. of the to the Franci: Nori Barbar coast is Sant miles s( a-half r about fi and is birds, is but lii San r northwe the mail miles in of its su: ISLANDS IN CALIFORNIA. 203 character Is barren and rocky ; and some of the peaks are over one hundred feet in height. Santa Catalina Island. — This island lies directly midway between San Clement island and the county of Los Angeles, about twenty miles from the coast, and is about the same size as San Clement; it is twenty miles in length and five in widtli. There is considerable good land and some cultivation on the island, which has been a grazing field for thousands of sheep. Some of the mountains on this island rise three thousand feet above the sea. There are two good harbors. Union and Catalina ; and an abundance of good water on the island. Both this and San Clement island were, by act of the California Legislature of April 25, 1851, attached to the county of Los Angeles : they are south of San Francisco about four hundred miles. North of these islands and off the coast of Santa Barbara county are the five other islands forming the coast islands : the most southerly of these is Santa Barbara Island. — This island v:. thirty-six miles south of Santa Barbara county, is about two and a-half miles in length, about two miles in width, and about five hundred feet in height, rocky and irregular, and is the abode of innumerable sea-lions and wild birds. It is thirty-six miles from the mainland. There is but little good land on it. San Nicolas Island. — ^This Island Is twenty-six miles northwest of Santa Barbara island and sixty miles from the mainland of Santa Barbara county; it is twelve miles in length and five miles wide. A great portion of its surface is rocky, but there are some valleys, and 204 THE GOLDEN STATE. large numbers of sheep pasture among them. Its greatest surface is about six hundred feet above the sea. It is about three hundred and forty miles from San Francisco. Santa Cruz Island. — Inside of San Nicolas, almost in a direct line east forty-two miles, twenty-five miles from the mainland and directly opposite the town of Santa Barbara in Santa Barbara county, is the island of Santa Cruz; it is twenty-four miles in length and seven miles in width. Its surface is rugged, but it has a great portion of good pasturage, upon which more than thirty thousand sheep graze. Wild hogs and goats abound in the mountains; so numerous are the former that they destroy the sheep by devouring the young lambs, and although efforts have been made to exterminate these hogs, it has been impossible, as they secure them- selves in the dense jungles in the hills. These hogs first came from the Sandwich islands: they never grow large, and are somewhat like the North Carolina pine- woods hogs ; are long legged and long bristled, have great heads and tusks, run like race-horses, and gen- erally die if fed upon corn and potatoes. There is now a war of extermination waging between the sheep and hogs : the sheep by destroying the grass, and the hogs by rooting up the pasturage and devouring the lambs : the hogs have the sheep at a great disadvantage. There is good water on the island, and a safe harbor on the land side. It is two hundred and eighty miles south of San Francisco. Santa Rosa Island. — Five miles directly west of Santa Cruz island, and thirty miles from the mainland of Santa Barbara county, is Santa Rosa island, sixteen ISLANDS IN CALIFORNIA. 205 miles in length, and twelve in width at its widest point. The sides of this island are about two hundred feet in height, with but few safe places for landing. The surface above this is almost level and produces abun dant grass, upon which thousands of sheep pasture. A few Mexican families reside on the island. The first mint in California was established on this island, how long ago is uncertain — perhaps centuries before Julius Caesar invaded Britain. From it was issued the panga or shell money of the Indians, which supplied the toast and interior tribes as far east as the Tulare and Owens lakes with the current funds of the aborigines. Once a year bands of Indians from the interior would vis^t the sea-coast at Santa Barbara county and the island of Santa Rosa, to trade with the island or coast tribes. Those of the interior brought panoche, (a thick sugar made from honey-dew and a species of wild cane,) nut pipes, and wild tobacco. This money was made from mussel shells found on the coast and the adjacent islands ; the pieces had holes in them, and were strung on fibres of wild hemp ; eight strings were of the value of a silver dollar ; and as this money brought the tribes into commercial intercourse, the priests encouraged it. As late as the year 1833, the Indians preferred this money to gold or silver. Not a trace of these once powerful coast-tribes, their canoes, or money remains at this date. Santa Rosa is two hundred and seventy-three miles south of San Fran- cisco. San Miguel Island. — Six miles west of Santa Rosa island, twenty-eight miles from the coast of Santa Bar- bara county, and two hundred and sixty-five miles south 206 THE GOLDEN STATE. of Sar Francisco, is the island of San Miguel ; it is nine miles in length and four in width ; is generally rocky, but a large number of sheep pasture upon it ; there is a harbor on the east side. The thirty-fourth parallel of north latitude runs directly through the three islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel. By act of the California Legislature, of April 25, 1851, the five islands, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel, were attached to the county of Santa Barbara. Most of these islands are visited by steamers from San Francisco. Following the coast northward for four hundred and fifty miles, to the Oregon State line, not an island is met with in the whole course except the clump of rocks off the Golden Gate known as the Farallones. Farallones Group. — Twenty-five miles due west from the Golden Gate is this group of six small islands, of rugged and barren rock, without soil, grass, or herb. The most southerly of the group contains about two acres, and is the largest of them all ; a spring of good water issues from the rocks, and a light-house is erected upon the principal island. This clump of barren rocks is in the possession of countless numbers of sea-lions and wild birds, the eggs of the latter having been for many years a source of considerable revenue to the companies engaged in gathering them. By act of the Legislature of California, of the 19th of April, 1856, the Farallones, Alcatraz, and Yerba Buena or Goat island were attached to the city and county of San Francisco. For description of these last-mentioned islands see Bay of San Francisco. arc ma due thei cata sing imp] men but 1 of a canic hot, a Frc steam hundr river, of wat great forked quench of thes( present fire. S '*egion. Iri Sa east of t the Colo ^"^7.^-. iti Five mil ofboilinc ^or. a,.^^^,,, ,^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ducmg gold and silver-hlr '^' ""^^^^^ ''" P™" the,r pinnacles-her stre-m!- ™°""'=''"^ ■'" elevating •ataracts thousands ofZl L^^^'l^ '^^" ^^^'^^4 .^-nging c^,^, ; ° feet beW-her myriads of ■mprisonmentstofoinfhehur™^ "" "'''■■■ """"'^'n "ento and San Joaqu „ to thT^^ ^""'^ °^'^^ Sacra- but the bowels of the elrtT . r '""^ °^ *^ P^-'fic- of a prolonged emetic, bel^h frorr^ ''*■'"" '^"^ '^^"^ came jets of mud stJam ? 1 u '' ^"^"^ ■"°""' vol- hot, and cold watt ' '^'""■' ^"^ '"■««'■. mineral, -IrandVmX\:: etr^-'^^^^ ^^M Jets of hundred miles north of !w ^"^'' "^^^^^ F°"r "ver, in Humboldfco "^^ ^ '^um' "" ''^ ^^««'^ of water but of £^s- someofTh "7'=™«-' ^Prings, not great force, and, whenT^nhed ., "' '"°''* '" ^^'^ °^ forked tongues from the !a«h ^'u""'' '^''^^ "^eir quenched. From the head 'f ' "'"^"'^ ^'^ of these jets sends fortht vollVT? °' ^'"'^ ""- presents the sin<.ubr IV ' *'"'^''' "'hen ignited fi-. Small s;rrn ' of P't™?"" °' "'^ "^^^ "'^W on region. ^ ^ "' Petroleum are also found in this In San Diego counhr „„ • east of the town of San DieloV'n IT'^' ^'^^"y ""'^^ ' the Colorado river, .s the bed of f '^ ""^^ --' f^m ■^'^e : it is about si^ feet hi 1 'f "= °'" ~"=iderable Rve miles south of S -'t f , T' °' *^ °«^n- of boiling mud. tossing ndshal^ll ''' '" ' ^^"'^™" S and shakmg ,ts angry sides and 208 THE GOLDEN STATE. surface, and emitting volumes of steam and sulphurous vapors, throwing with loud reports jets of mud high in the air. For many miles around this cauldron are hot springs and deposits of sulphur; a trembling motion is felt under foot for a great distance, and at times a rumbling, subterraneous noise . is heard in the vicinity. There are also sulphur springs near this locality. In Alameda county, thirty-three miles in a direct line southeast from San Francisco, are warm and mineral springs possessing great medicinal qualities. They are the resort of pleasure-seekers and invalids during the summer season ; the climate is genial and salubrious. Calistoga Springs. — The springs at Calistoga, in Napa county, are seventy-six miles north from San Francisco. They are situated in a beautiful and fertile valley dotted with live oaks, and surrounded by rolling hills and mountains partly covered with trees. The view is very picturesque, and good hotel accommoda- tions make it a fashionable place of resort during the summer months. The springs, which boil from a low, boggy spot in the valley, form quite a group. Some of them are walled with boards and arranged for bathing ; some of them are also very hot, so much so that at a little depth eggs can be boiled in a few minutes. Although these springs are twenty-five miles distant from the Geysers, in So- noma county, they are supposed to be connected with them by some subterr-^.nean passage. Experiments made by boring to a depth of sixty feet proved the water to be so hot that no test of its actual heat could be made. White Sulphur Springs. — A group of springs »0T, MINERAL, ^ND OT^^n ' "^^ OTHER SPRINGS. called the WliiV« c i l ^ ^^^^ seve„te:fSr„Sf 'n^ 'A^^P--"'y. -«er issues from che rocks in a „?' '^^ ^"'P''"' mountains, tlirough which a crvTM "" ^°'S'' '" '^e of oaks, alder, and wi t wWcT fr"" 'T"''"' f""^^'' the stream. Rich folia™ shade t/^^ *^ "'^■■^'" °^ the mountains. ^ ^" *^ «P""gs and crowns -ed here for the accrmSiororS. ^^^ ■"""- five' ;ifZr;^°-;'-ast s,^e of Napa valley, and famous Soda springs ThTv V^^^' "^ ^'^^^^ the a mountain, about one lous^"!,'^''''' °" *^ ='<'-<"• of the sea. These sprint wh/'" ''°^^ *« '^vel occupy about thirty-five ?„! 1 f^"^*^ "'™erous, springs a very superior ar fcl f J ^"""^ "'^^^ '^hich l«s become a taorK ""^' ''' "•''^'"^d, State: during the summt'^ „':::T "i""^'""' *- dozen bottles per month are soTdT^" "' *''°"^='"^' to the taste, and by manvTcon.V, ! *^'"' '^ P'^^^-'nt meciicinal qualities: ft con aTn, K .''^ P°=^^'^ g'-^at carbonate of magnesia carh ' '"'^f ''°"«« of soda, sodium, subcarboLTe of ron Tk °' ''''"^' "^'"""^e of acid, and alumina. ' '"'P''''"'" "^ »°da, siliceous tiJ^^'^^f'T ^"^ P^'-o'eum are found -n tions of the State A,nl„i/ '" '•^"'^''al por- stance-and petroLm ssu T""'.""'*' "^'^ «"b. earth. Seven' miles wesfof L^f r^'"^ °' *« twenty acres are covered with it? r^'"'''' """•« than 2IO THE GOLDEN STATE. In ia deep canon, twenty miles east of Los Angeles, asphaltum issues from a mountain side, depositing large quantities in the gorge below. On the coast of Santa Barbara county, near Mount Hoar, asphaltum forms a thick coat upon the sea-shore, and in places runs far into the sea, following the beach from the slate rock from which it oozes. From these deposits as well as from those in Los Angeles county large quantities of asphaltum are shipped to San Francisco, where it is extensively used for roofing purposes; and, when mixed with gravel and sand, it forms the elegant sidewalks of San Francisco. Tar Springs. — Six miles west of Buena Vista lake, in the western part of Kern county and near the eastern line of Santa Barbara county, is a boiling spring of thick tar, and another of petroleum — the former covering about an acre. From the centre of this spring or lake constant jets of steam and gas escape ; as the fluid around the edges of the spring cools, it forms a solid asphaltum : birds, beasts, and reptiles, unconscious of danger, often rest upon this liquid matter around the edges, only to find themselves imbedded in the con- gealed and gluey mass in the embrace of death : their bones are found in great quantities in this congealed matter. In the southern and eastern portion of Kern county large tracts of alkali desert and salt marsh is found, with salt and hot springs. In the eastern part of this county, in a small valley, surrounded by high mountains, is a small salt lake, the water of which is very pure and very salt. The great evaporation caused by the rays of the sun pouring down in this little valley produces ous, two feet sides heij stean hiiJs tibove the sc ^here and of hotel summe Would CMv^^^s oj. CLrromrA. great quantities of the be,. „ i- *" fuppiyfor this sect!:,„''o 'r„t°^-!'- A''Ae.aIt ^^^^- Salt and sulphur are a,7 '\°'''^'"«d in this Pomts along the coas? in thelwi °''^''"^'' « ™«"y ^nd .n Alameda county a ™he TT °^ *« ^tate; ^'=■^0.. large quantities of sTa,^ ''? '^°™ S^" Fmn- floodmg the marsh land w 1 ,^ P"^"'^^'' ^"""ally, by .---ming it m, until, under ?« 1 "?,'' °' *^ "^-/-"d >t >3 absorbed, Ieavi;g its cSrr " '"^^ °^ *^^"". ^«-'''cH.eyareU-tl7:;„a;tt:;t^^- f-rt-°r;i:t:^^::r Rosa, ,„ the northeast corner oflo "°^* °^ «-"'- °f the greatest natural curWtt "f"^ """"^y'-'^ one f e world. In a deep cafion t^ '" */ f'^'^- '^ "o. i„ abrupt peaks of the Coa °t R "''^'' ^^ ^^^^ and -ysterious laboratory of „Itu,eT' " "' '"^^'^ ^^ '"e and hot springs. 'n.^.^Z^^T '' *^ '^O'^-^ ous, are in P,uton cafion ?„d V^"'' "'^ ^^T ""^er- two hundred acres; tley arlr'"" ' ^^^^^ °^ about feet above the level of the I' °".' "^'"^^" hundred -des from three tho slnd o T T""'''"' °" all he.§:ht,- there are morrtha^.h 1^°"'^"'^ fe« '" fteam-holes, and gas-Its „?k'^ ''""^^^'^ ^Prings h* in the vicinity^olk and" tr ^'"'"'P' °" "'^ ^^ above the smoke a'nd steam of th?" .r"" ''''''' ^eads ^'- scenery in the vicini^Ts itu'r''™" '"='°«'.- and There ,s abundance of trout TnT''".' '""^ ™'"amic. and of hear, deer, and qn^u' Z Kn '^■'"'''» "^'^ams. ^■m 212 THE GOLDEN STATE. The Springs are of various sizes and degrees of heat; some so hot that an t.g% can be boiled in three minutes. The fluids emitted from these springs are of every color and shade: one, the "Devil's Ink Bottle," sends forth a good quality of black ink. Mingled with the fluids, impregnating the air, and c*"usting the surface in this vicinity, are alum, ammonia, sulphuric acid, nitric acid, sulphur, epsv^m salts, magnesia, and soda. A short distance from this is the "Witch's Cauldron," about seven feet in diameter, boiling and hissing, as its sable hell-broth lashes for th -ee or four feet above the 4ips of the cauldron. The depth of this infernal pit is unknown. Some yards from the cauldron are "Steamboat springs," where, in apertures in the side of the rocks, in dense volumes, great jets of steam shoot forth with a roaring, thundering noise, like the escaping steam from a steamboat. Strange to say, that, in the edges of the steam and hot springs, where the heat is two hundred degrees, grass, flowers, and herbs grow : they are, however, peculiar to this place, and seem to flourish in water and steam that would destroy life in any other vegetable growth. In the vicinity of this laboratory of nature wagon- loads of alum, sulphates of iron, sulphur, and epsom salts can be gathered. The strange and fearful commotions in this locality, whether caused by chemical forces or ' from some unquenched furnace sdll devouring the rocks below, is well calculated to impress the beholder with the power of Omnipotence. Shocks of earthquakes, although irregular and uncer- tain in their oscillations and appalling in the extreme, soon pass away ; but to stand upon the verge of eter- GEYSEHS OF CALIFORNIA. 213 th nity surrounded with volumes of steam and smoke, whose sulphurous odors stifle and blind, and where the quivering lips and gaping jaws coated with rough sul- phurous scales sputter in angry moans from infernal depths, while the black, yellow, and green - streaked boiling saliva from these angry mouths, whose fetid breath suffocates and confounds, lashes up its acid fluids, and seeming to invite the beholder into the "Devil's Cauldron," with his sins fresh blown upon him, is not to be trifled with nor easily forgotten. The famed Geysers of Iceland, Milton's Paradise Lost, and Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress, warmed up with a doctrinal sermon upon the unquer.chable fires of hell, may serve to awaken a lively imagination of the regions v/here the "worm never dieth;" but, for a genuine realization of the blowpipe of his Satanic majesty, drop the hypochondriac in the midst of these seething scenes — let him cast his eyes upon the mountains of sulphur around — ^let him look upon the mysterious meander- ings of Pluton creek — inhale the gases and fumes emit- ted from the angry mouths craving for a drop of cold water — look upon the scalding and angry flu'ds — feel the sides of the crater tremble and swell beneath his feet, as heavy sighs come forth from its fathomless fur- nace, and its sulphurous crest is shaken in reckless defiance of the tame realities of every-day life — and the scene is complete, and the argument of unquenchable fires conclusive. 214 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XVIII. Waterfalls — ^Yosemite falls — Creeks — Rivers — Mirror lake Vail — Earthquakes. -Bridal There are few countries in the world so well supplied with water as California. She abounds in vast lakes, expansive bays, and swift rivers. The Coast Range of mountains pours innumerable streams of crystal water from its sides, cutting their way through its ridges to the ocean on the west, or coursing down its eastern side to water the fertile valleys below. In this range there are many beautiful canons, glens, and val- leys, through which these streams leap in sparkling cascades, affording tempting and cheap motive power for the wheels of industry, and this power the growing necessities of the times will demand. Almost two hundred miles to the east of this chain of mountains are the famed Sierras, stretching for four hundred and fifty miles along the eastern line of the State, with their numerous lakes and dashing rills fed by the eternal snows of their mountain tops, and pour- ing their liquid streams into the parched valleys below. The myriads of bounding streams which course from the western slope of this range have many features of wild beauty and utility. Besides supplying the miner and agriculturist with water, their foaming, leaping tides, pouring through deep chasms thousands of feet below, over the frowning, precipitous walls of rocks, the rugged hill-sides, and through the tall trees, must, like the waters of the Coast Range, at no distant day NEAR VIEW OF THE YO-SEMITE lAl.l.S.— 2,634 FEET IN HEU'.HT. (First Fall 1,600 Feel. Second Fall 600 Feet. Third Fall 434 Vcet.) SUjf mo anc sen alii C cisc( neai rive: cour in a and worl Tl marv sea, i swell reach the n rounc which whose delica presei beautj and ii down and in( toward Ente YOSEMITE AND ITS WONDERS. 215 supply the busy scenes of skilled industry with sufficient motive power. But whether or no the hand of science and industry shall tame the wild current of the Yo- semite, its natural beauty must hold supreme sway over all the great wonders of California. YOSEMITE F.ALLS. One hundred and forty miles due east from San Fran- cisco, and one hundred and eighty -two miles by the nearest line of travel, on the head waters of the Merced river and in the extreme eastern part of Mariposa county, forty-five miles west of the -eastern State line, in a gorge of the Sierras, are the famed Yosemite falls and valley, one of the most picturesque spots in the world. The valley with the surroundings of this scene of marvellous ber^.uty stands about 4,060 feet above the sea, is about eight miles in length and one in width, swelling in the centre to about three miles. It is- reached by a descent of over two thousand feet down the rugged sides of the mountains by which it is sur- rounded. This beautiful valley, through the centre of which meanders in graceful curves a silver stream, upon whose sides is a green carpet of grass bespangled with delicately tinted flowers and studded with stately pines, presents in the deep forest a picture of unsurpassed beauty. The atmosphere, so pure, perfumed, buoyant, and invigorating, with the mellow sunlight flooding down upon this charming spot, makes it most attractive, and induces feelings of serene composure and good will toward men. Entering the valley at the west by a precipitous 2l6 THE GOLDEN STA TE. descent, the green vale is brought suddenly to a termi nation by the closing in of the walls of a steep canon ; threading up this valley, frowning walls of granite of from three thousand to four thousand feet completely surround it, until the beholder is standing in the midst of the wildest, most terribly grand, and awe-inspiring natural architectural splendor on the globe. Casting his eyes upward, he beholds the grandest scene of nature, before which the majesty of the pyramids of Egypt, the frigid walls of Iceland's mountains, the glaciers of Lapland, and the stately grandeur of the Andes pale. No .scene so grand can be found in the gorges of Switzerland : neither the rugged face of Via Mala, the frowning pass of Tete Noir, nor the precipice over which the Staubbach pours its foam, can present such wild beauty. The cleft walls and lofty turrets of the Himalayas fail to equal the stern, imposing perpen- dicular walls of smooth granite, rearing their massive, clean sides, for almost a mile, sheer and stern. Nor can the wild roar and dashing tide of the Niagara equal the grand march of the crystal fountains leaping from their granite imprisonment and bounding headlong in reckless glee over and through these precipitous walls for 2,700 feet Looking heavenward, the beholder views the soft-shaded drab sides of two perpendicular walls, rising almost a mile in height, and so close that, should either fall over, it would tumble against the other. Seeking in vain for the lost mass of rock which • once filled the chasm, the conclusion is arrived at that the bottom must have dropped out, and the molten mass in the bowels of the earth received as a sweet morsel the millions of tons of granite once a part of EL CAPITAN AND THE DOMES, 217 these mountains; and this idea seems to be entertained by the most scientific observers. Bastions, peaks, and shafts rear their heads in impos- ing grandeur. El Capitan Hfts its sheer sides 3,3CX) feet above the Httle valley ; cathedral spires push their slender granite shafts high in the air, above which the •'Three Brothers" rear their unscarred and solemn walls four thousand feet in perpendicular grandeur above the valley. As the observer looks in reverence upon Jehovah's grandest masonry, the eye is relieved by what appears to be a shrub held in a creA-ice of the per- pendicular wall: it seems to cling nervously to the cold rock, yet shakes its tiny branches in defiance c^* all below : it is more than twenty-five hundred feet from the green vale below. This tiny shrub proves to be a gigantic forest pine, dwarfed in the distance. Still other attractions, mighty walls and frowning turrets, strike the beholder : " Sentinel rock," elevated three thousand feet from the valley, and the crowning grandeur of the scene — the "Dome" — whose bastion and perpendicular walls rear in unbroken masses 4,160 feet above its pedestal, fringed with grass and beautiful flowers below. Contemplating these mighty, stern sentinels of eter- nity, whose domes may have been reared millions of centuries before the tree from which was plucked the forbidden fruit of Eden sent forth its first leaf — in the midst of these scenes, we sigh for the lost energies of Plato and Kepler, probing the sides and sounding the lungs of mother earth; we bear testimony to the ir- reparable loss to science that Whitson, Baron Fourier, De Maillet, Leibnitz, Hutton, Werner, Murray, Kirwan, Deluc, Lyell, Buckland, Humboldt, Hugh Miller, and 3l8 THE GOLDEN STATE. Agassiz have never gazed upon these monumental piles abounding in rich evidences and stern lessons of geo- logical wonders. But these gigantic columns and frowning pillars are not the only wonders or beauties of Yosemite. Mingled with these stately domes, and pouring their sparkling gc;ms from their aerial urns, are the most magnificent waterfalls that ever adorned the earth. Standing upon the sward below and looking upward, the scene is grand beyond description : through the narrow walls of the smooth rocks above is heard the thundering march of Yosemite fall, coming with- its mighty torrent, thirty feet wide and three feet deep, dashing at a single bound sixteen hundred feet upon a ledge or grand shelf of granite; here, gathering its spent forces, it rallies again, and, leaping from urn to urn, frolics downward for a distance of seven hundred feet, eddying, curving, and sparkling along; here, marshalling all its forces and raising its hoarse chorus in the wild cry of its last effort, it plunges furiously through the chasm four hundred additional feet, coiling itself like a serpent in the basin of the lawn below, through which it sullenly meanders, whispering in subdued tones to the nodding flowers and foliage, which seem to recognize the presence of a dethroned monarch. The fall of this mightiest of cas- cades, from its uppermost height to its final repose in the valley below, is 2,7CX) feet; whilst the famed Vorings- fos of Norway, a mere thread in volume, is but 950 feet, and the world-famed Niagara, although so vast in volume that it has no rival on the globe, falls but 1 60 feet, but one-sixteenth of the fall of Yosemite, leaving the California waterfall the greatest in the world. One of the many charming features of this spot is CATHEDRAL ROCKS, YOSEMITE VALLEY. (2,66o feet high above the Valley.) YOSEMITE AND ITS BEAUTIES. 219 the deep basin known as Mirror lake — a placid foun- tain formed from the spent diamond drops of the cata- ract, so transparent that the hanging cliffs, stately pines, and foliage upon its boicicrs are so completely mirrored in its depths that, with their roots seemingly clinging to the surface and tops downward, all the verdure and beauty of the forest and grandeur of the mountains are seen — in reality above, in shadow below. The photog- rapher's art has beautifully portrayed this scene of substance and shadow in the familiar pictures of " Mirror lake" so common in the picture stores and art galleries of San Francisco. But all the beauty of Yosemite does not end with these scenes. We must yet dwell upon the most fairy- like pictures of earth: the "Bridal Vail," outrivalling the daintiest gossamer behind which blushing maiden hides her charms, pours its sparkling flood of pearls, dancing, leaping, and sporting in fantastic glee, and bath- ing the stern and precipitous cliffs in its cooling mists of nine hundred feet descent. This beautiful fall, burst- ing from the summit, ligh^jjnd gauzy in its volume, spreads its glistening spray in a sheet of thin vapor, which, met by the eddying zephyrs that float about, catch up its fleecy folds, looping, tossing, and Whirling them about in spasms of sublime coquetry, ever chang- ing the fascinating scene in the hazy and translucent mists, where the mysterious crimson and gold of the ever-changing rainbows, dancing and floating, blend, dissolve, and disappear like the shadow of a vision. The dallyings and coquetry of these new-born myste- ries, as in couplets and triplets they lock arms and seem to waltz into their dissolving eternity, shaking from ,il;heir azure pinions the silvery mists of the clouds, form "■I«IP"' 220 THE GOLDEN STATE. the loveliest combination of terrestrial and celestial phenomena ever beheld by man. The view from tlie summit of the grand bastions and peaks of this fascinating spot, looking from their aerial heights upon the frolicking torrents, leaping and laugh- ing in their mountain glee, and watching the sudden meander! ngs in the vale below, where stately pines of two hundred feet look like garden shrubs, is at once grand, picturesque, and romantic, outrivalling any scene of natural beauty yet discovered on the globe, lending new inspiration to the beholder, and opening new fields of meditation for the painter and the poet — a scene where the careworn combatant in the fickle struggle of life can look from his heated and disordered plain upon the majesty of Jehovah's mightiest cathedral, whose silver-tongued organs, from creation to eternity, peal forth their choral strains proclaiming the omnipotence of the Creator. So sacred is the Yosemite valley held by the people of California that, in order to preserve its primitive beauty and spare its forests from invading ax-men, they proc\ir»Hl an act of Congress donating tliis lovely spot to the State, in trust for the people. EARTHQUAKES. Since tlir days of the first mutterings of Stromboli, (Lipari isles,) whose continuous fires have not been qW'ndu (I for more than two thousand years, up to the desolating ravages of Vesuvius ami Etna, the uplifting of Jorullo, a/id ^he angry lips o/ Cotopaxi spit forth its molten masses of nio/^L' \\sm\ oiif; hundred tons a dis- tance of nine miles, the \\\\\\\M\ laiully \i\i ^ held the strange phenomenon of earthquakes as feurlul visita- " i^i* '*if EARTHQUAKES. 221 tlons of God's wrath ; but science, which has enabled man to measure the heavenly constellations, harness steam, chain the lightning and encircle the globe in its electric bands, has fully demonstrated the volcanic origin of this element of force and terror. All parts of the globe have been at some time visited by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions; and those portions of the sphere where the interior fires have most to feed upon, and where they reach their fiery tongues nighest the surface, sometimes break forth in volcanic eruptions ; or the great furnaces below, receiving of a sudden great floods of water from the fissures, of the earth, gorges, and streams of the mountains, or from the ocean itself, generate such injmense bodies of steam and gases that these elements, in seeking an escape, rush furio'isly through the chasms below, causing mother earth to cough, shake her sides, and w riggle her back, much to the terror of her occupants. Europe, South and Central America, and Mexico have been the theatres of fearful eruptions and shocks of earthquakes. In many parts of the United States shocks of great severity have been felt. Philadelpnia and Boston, in the seventeenth century, found their chimney-tops ratding about the heads of their pious Quakers and sedate Puritans. The severest earthquake ever felt in the United States was at New Madrid, Missouri, which commenced at two o'clock of the morning of December i6, iSii. Twenty-eight shocks occurred on this day, uprooting trees, opening large fissures in the earth, shaking down chimneys, and doing much damage. From this period to the 8th of February following, the earth was con- standy agitated. On this day the shocks were most -.fel ! ^S THE GOLDEN STATE. severe: houses were levelled, trees rent in pieces, por* tions of the land sunk, forming lakes; and a large island in the Mississippi, covered with immense forests, sank beneath the wateK\ and the course of the Mississippi was turned back for more than 'an hour; jets of electric fire, mud, and soot issued from the earth, which was in commotion for several months; yet it is not certain that a single life was lost. There is no account of any earthquake ever having occurred in California of any such violent character, until the Inyo earthquake of 1872: indeed, compared with the earthquakes of. other times and countries, California's earthquakes are but gentle oscillations, reminding us of the herculean spasm of nature that jerked the Sierras from the bowels of the earth, and tossed the Himalayas and Andes into the air. Through- out the length of the State, especially within a space of sixty miles of the coast, occasional tremors and light earthquake-shocks are felt; sometimes these shocks are sharp and decisive, but, so far, have not been destruc- tive to any extent. History does not tell us of any earth- quakes in California from its earliest settlement up to 1800. In October of this year, some adobe buildings were cracked at the village of San Juan Bautista. This is the first earthquake mentioned in the mission records of the country. The next account is found in the records of the Presidio of San Francisco, showing that twenty- one shocks had occurred from the 21st of June to the 17th of July, 1808. From this period to 181 2 there is no mention of earthquakes. In September of that year, a very severe earthquake shook the lower portion oi the State with great violence, almost totally destroying ■ the Mission of San Juan Capistrano, in Los Angeles EARTHQUAKES, 223 county, and the Mission of Prurissima, in Santa Barbara county; also the church at San Inez. Thirty persons are supposed to have been killed by this shock: this is the first account of loss of life in California by earth- quakes. In 1 81 8, a mission church at Santa Clara was thrown down; and at San Franciso, on May 15, 1851, glass windows were broken, goods in the stores mis- placed and shaken down, and ships in the bay rocked and tumbled about by a very severe shock. At San Jos6, in November, 1858, a severe shock cracked most of the brick buildings of the town. A portion 01" Alameda county was severely shaken on July 3, 1 861 . About noon on Sunday, October 8, 1865, a very severe shock was felt at San Francisco, and many buildings were shaken so as to cause them to be cracked. The vibrations seemed to be from north tc south ; along the western side of Montgomery street for several blocks, the glass windows were shivered to atoms, and on the west side of Third street, for two blocks, and in many other parts of the city, the glass was broken and literally ground to powder. Great consternation was caused among the worshippers in the churches, (it being Sunday ;) many Glinted nnd were much alarmed. Since the occupation of the country by the Ameri- cans, in 1846. there has not a year passed without one or more si>)cks being felt in the State, sometimes con- fined to small sections of the countr\', at others extend- ing over a vast area. It often occurs that the shocks felt at San Francisco are not felt at Stockton, Sacra- mento, or Marysville. The severest earthquake since tJie occupation of the countn,-, up to 1872, was experi- enced on the 2ist of October. 1S6S, about eight o'clock ii -le morning. It was felt most severely in the vicinity 224 THE GOLDEN STATE. of San Francisco and in Alameda county, causing^ con- siderable damage and much alarm. It commenced by gentle oscillations, increasing in violence, when, with a fearful tremor, it tossed and swayed the buildings until they toppled and almost fell, causing great terror, and filling the streets with the inhabitants, many of whom abandoned their dwellings, sought refuge upon the vacant lots and public parks, where they erected tents, and for several days refused to be comforted or return to their homes. Many brick buildings were cracked, others partly sank, and some in course of erection were thrown down ; while not a building in the city which was sub- stantially built or upon good solid foundations, although there were many brick houses of four and five stories in the city, received any damage. Several shaky, rick- ety walls and hanging cornices of brick and mud (for the mortar used in San Francisco is the poorest in the world) were thrown down or much damaged, and win- dows were pretty generally broken. Three persons Were killed, all by the falling of defective cornices or Walls. The court-house at San Leandro, Alameda county, was thrown down, and one man killed. Many other buildings around the Bay of San Francisco were destroyed, and in some sections not a brick chimney could be seen standing. Added to the terror of the people was a dull, sickening sensation, like sea-sickness, causing some great distress. Some persons who had arrived shortly before this from the Atlantic States, and others who had been in California for many years, left the State, intending never to return. It seems singular that these people should leave a country where, for more than half a century, not a half-dozen people have been killed by any natural phenomena, while In the and Franc Nevac on the this of the stand Whiti. thousa former are see and su »5 ■ EARTHQUAKES. 225 New England States, Middle States, and in the valley of the Mississippi, hundreds are killed annually by sun- stroke, lightning, fro«t, and hurricanes, which yearly destroy millions of dolkrs worth ot property. California is entirely exempt from accident by sun- stroke, lightning, hurricanes, and frosts. There is scarcely a State in the Union, east of the Rocky moun- tains, which does not in a single year lose more human lives by some of the above-mentioned phenomena than has been lost by earthquakes in California within the memory of man up to the year 1872. The severest earthquake ever known in California, far surpassing in violence, duration, and destruction of life any disturbance of this nature west of Mexico, in America, occurred in the southeastern section of the State, in the cou»}ty of Inyo, on the 26th of March, 1872, completely levelling the houses in the vicinity and caus- ing great panic and loss of life. The location of this eruption is in 37° north latitude .?nd 118° longitude west from Greenwich, one hundrea and eighty miles due east from the Bay of Monterey, and two hundred and thirty miles due southeast from the city of San Francisco. Inyo county lies entirely east of the Sierra Nevada mountains. (This county and Mono adjoining on the north are the only counties :n the State east of this range.) In the Sierras forming the western line of the county, close to the scene of this commotion, stand the loftiest mountains in the State — Tyndall and Whit.iey standing respectively fourteen and fifteen thousand feet above the sea. Abundant evidences of former eruptions and the volcanic nature of this section are seen on ever)'^ side : alkaline deserts, dry lakes, hot and sulphurous springs, and to the south Death valley IS k '■f 1 22d THE GOLDEN STATE. and the mud volcanoes, hot, salt, alkaline, and bitter springs and extinct craters of San Bernardino county, Owens lake, (see Lakes.) The Coso, Inyo, and White mountains, with valuable mines of gold and silver, pass through this county. In the vicinity of the disturbances are rich agricultural valleys and pasture ranges, but, owing to the remoteness of tht, county from railroads and navigation, but little permanent settlement has yet been made. The entire population of the county is but 1.956, engaged chiefly in quartz-mining, grazing, and agriculture. A large number of the population are native Californians of Mexican extraction, and the vil- lages are built chiefly of adobe or sun-dried bricks, as are most of the Spanish and Mexican towns of America. Earthquakes make fearful havoc among such houses, shaking them into heaps of loose sand, while frame or solid brick buildings are little affected, unless by severe shocks. At two and a-half o'clock on the morning of March 26, the inhabitants of the district were awakened by loud explosions as of heavy artillery, followed in an in- stant by a terrible upheaval and rocking of the earth from south to north. At the little town of Lone Pine, as if in a twinkling, the whole place (containing about five hundred inhabitants) was destroyed, not a building left standing, and the frenzied inhabitants buried in the ruins — some in death; others rending the night air with their agony and lamentations; parents and children, wives and husbands, separated, some dead, others in intense pain crying to be relieved from their imprison- ment in the ruins of their fallen homes; others in the wildest delirium, rocked, pitched, and tossed in the darkness of night among the dead and dying, while the swal aero cam< and our Ld of the num of th Swan and four count tution other EARTHQUAKES. 227 hissing, roaring, and rumbling of volcanic heat and steam below, and tumbling mountain-tops above swaying their heads to and fro, and shaking from their sides vast bodies of rocks, rendered the scene appalling in its intense fury. From two and a-half 9' clock, the time of the first shock, until sunrise over three hundred distinct shocks were felt, and more than one thousand distinct shocks within three days, and seven thousand shocks to April 4. The earth during this period was not still a moment, shaking, trembling, and quaking, indicating the immense forces at work below. At TIbbet's ranche, fifteen miles from the town of Inde- pendence, about forty acres of ground sunk about seven feet below the surface of the country; Owens lake rose four feet, and Owens and Kern rivers turned back for several miles, and ran over their banks, de- positing shoals offish on the shores; and vast, yawning fissures and chasms opened their jaws, in some instances swallowing the dead and dying, and stretching for miles across the country their sepulchral depths, froin which came the sulphurous and fiery breath of the unbridled and unwelcome monster whose voice is the terror of our race. Lone Pine, which seems to have been the centre point of the shock, had twenty-seven persons killed and a large number wounded; and fifty-two buildings (three-fourths of the whole town) were destroyed. At Corro Gordo, Swansa, and Independence buildings were shaken down and a few persons killed and some wounded. Thirty- four persons in all were killed by the earthquake of Inyo county, and about one hundred wounded. The desti- tution of the people being relieved by donations from other sections of the State, they buried their dead, re- 228 THE GOLDEN STATE. built their homes, entered their mines and fields, and pursue their avocations on tlie scenes of one of the most appalling natural phenomena ever known in the limits of the republic of America. The extent of the Lone Pine earthquake wks along the whole line of California, being felt in every town from the Oregon line to the Gulf of Mexico, and from the southern slope of the Sierras to the waters of the Pacific, extending seven to eight hundred miles north and south and three huiylred miles fr6m east to west. The Sierra Nevada in the region described breaks down southerly into a number of detached parallel ranges, and in San Bernardino and San Diego counties loses altogether its distinctive character as a great mountain chain. The region abounds with evidences of comparatively recent volcanic action. Alkali lakes, like Owens lake — a body of salt and alkaline water twenty-two miles in length and eight in width — solfa- taras, hot springs, and mud volcanoes, point unmistaka- bly to the fact that the tremendous forces which once were in active operation all along the Sierra are here still asserting themselves with lessened but still threat- ening energy. The noted depression of Death's valley, not far southeast from Owens lake, with its area of forty miles in length and ten miles in width, a great portion of which is one hundred and fifty feet below the level of the sea, while the surrounding mountains are not less than five thousand feet above it, is a locality plainly evidencing volcanic action. Still further south, in San Bernardino county, north of the trail leading from Fort Mojave via the sink of the Mojave,* the Mojave desert and river, to Los Angeles, there are numerous volcanic craters, rising to heights of fifty to EARTHQUAKES. 229 two hundred feet above the desolate plain, still as per- fect as when their fires went out. A lava flow covers the earth for many miles, stretching like a great frozen river through the desert in this vicinity. The volcanic belt extends to the borders of the Col- orado desert, where hot mineral springs, volcanic ashes in vast beds, lava, pumice-stone, and other evidences of comparatively recent volcanic disturbance, are found in abundance. It is even supposed that the "Dry Lake," or great salt plain of the Colorado desert, was the bed of the sea at no very distant date, and that its present condition is the result of volcanic action, the ancient water-line, still disdnctly marked by sedimentary discoloration, extending along the side of the San Gor- gonio mountain, south of San Gorgonio pass, for some fifty miles. At Dos Palmas, a water station on the northeastern side of the Colorado desert, on the trail from San Bernardino via San Gorgonio pass to Lapaz, on the Colorado river, in May, 1868, a severe earth- quake — which was not felt in northern and central California — opened a long fissure in the earth, from which a stream of cold water flowed for some weeks. This fissure is but a short distance from the great hot sp: ing of Dos Palmas, which is stiil flowing, but is said to havt; grown very much cooler since that event. At For^ Ttjon, in the southeastern part of Kern county, several years ago, the earth was rent into a chasm. In the late convulsion the ground heaved and vibrated, and thien, as the awful sound died in its far-off echoes, those who had escaped from their crumbling dwellings aghast and .almost speechless with terror hoped the catastrophe was over. But almost instantly, away to IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h // {./ •4j \ / fA 1.0 ;^ iM iiiiM I.I 1.25 6" t li£ 11112.0 1.8 R III 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREIT WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 672-4'i03 « |\^ -^ ^ :\ \ ^v ^^ >^ 6^ '-^^*<^ -•t^^ '^ r o .^regate of gold equal to the whole product of Cali- fo-'. ■■; 'vori 1848 to 1872 — $1,000,000,000. The figures following exhibit the result of the periods named, and the product since these last dates is estimated, and is as nigh correct as can well be ascertained. Victoria, from 1851 to 1868, yielded $711,369,000; New South Wales, from 1851 to 1868, $148,314,125; Queensland, from i860 to 1867, $2,424,850; New Zea- 268 THE GOLDEN STATE. land, from 1853 to 1867, «^74,924,28o: showing a total within these dates of $937,032,255. It will be observed in the table of annual yield of gold in California that the amount from the dibcovery of gold to 1872 is but ; /"^^r-oo.ooo. Amounts, going from the mines into the i. 3 of private parties, and not easily accounted for, have been estimated to swell the amount in the table to $1,000,000,000; and the es- timated aggregate amounts obtained from the Austra- lian mines and the amounts passing into private hands, since the last reports above, will swell the total pro- duct of Australia to a little over the entire yield of California. The approximate value in the yield of the precious metals in California and Australia, consideiing the large amounts and that the dates of discovery in each country are so close to each other, is something most remarka- ble in the history of gold-mining and the gold product of the world. The government of Victoria collects for miners' licenses, miners' rights, leases of gold and mineral lands, and other mining taxes; while in the United States no collections are made, except in a few instances Avhere local governments impose a small tax upon Chinese, and thj.t in violation of the laws of the national government. In the seven leading mining- districts of Victoria, namely, Ballarat, Beeckworth, Sandhurst, Maryborough, Castlemain, Ararat, and GIppsland, there are 2,431 miles of water races constructed, at a cost of $1,551,350. The area of land held as claims in the same districts is 133.575 acres; and the estimated value of the claims in these seven districts is $44,347,520. The number of GOLD AND GOLD-MININC. 269 machines employed in alluvial mining are 441 steam- engines, 1,887 pumping machines, 298 whims, 320 whips, 261 cradles, 19,346 water-wheels, 643 stamps crushing cement ; and the number employed in quartz- mining are 602 steam-engines, 66 crushing machines, 5,977 stamps, 512 whims, 436 whips. The value of all the mining machinery and appliances used in mining in Victoria is estimated at <^io,752,i6o. The number of men engaged in mining in Victoria, in 1 85 1, was 19,300; the largest number in i860, 108,562 ; and the number in 1868 was 64,658. In 1857, there were 36,3'? 7 Chinamen working at the mines in Victoria. In 1868, the number was reduced to 15,300. The remainder have nearly all returned to their native land. Only fifty-six of the 15,300 were working at the quartz mines ; the balance were work- ing on the alluvial mines. • In 1852, the average earnings of miners was ^1,310; in 1862, it fell to $336; in 1868, the average rose to ^520 per man per annum. Gold, of all metals, has a peculiar charm for the human family, and the real value of the baser metals is often ignored in the thirst for the circulating medium as it comes glittering from the mine or the mint. Great Britain does not produce the precious metals, yet her annual yield of minerals far surpasses all the gold of California, and that in such magnitude that there is no comparison. The annual value of the mineral products of Great Britain is about three times as great as the greatest annual yield of gold in California, and eight times as great as the mines of California produce at the present period. The value of the minerals taken from the mines of Great Britain, in 1869, was ^176,269,000. 270 THE GOLDEN STATE. If we calculate this amount by twenty-four, the years of the existence of the gold-mines of California, and in which they have produced |i 1,000,000,000, we will have the aggregate sum of 23.68 X855-56, 21.66 1856-57, 19.88 YEAR. DAIIf. 1849, 18.00 1850 2.30 185? 15.12 1852, 25.60 1853.' 19-03 1854, 22.12 1855, 27.80 1856, 22.01 302 THE GOLDEN STATE. RAIN. 1857-58, 21.81 1858-59, 22.22 1859-60, 22.27 1860-61, I9-72 1861-62, 49-27 1862-63, 13.62 1863-64, 10.08 1864-65, 24.73 1865-66, 22.93 1866-67, 33.84 1867-68, 40.05 1868-69, 21.06 1869-70, 20.08 1870-71, 14.47 1871-72, 27.09 YEAR. KAIN. 1857. . ' 20.55 1858, 19.64 1859, 18.03 i860, 16.15 I861, 18.43 1862, 28.29 1863 16.68 1864, 18.55 1865, 10.50 1866, 32.98 1867, . 33.00 1868, 28.23 1869, 23.18 1870, 15.57 I87I, 23.12 Within the limits of California almost every degree of temperature and climate can be found. A few hours ride from San Francisco, in winter, will bring the trav- eller from blooming beds of flowers into the midst of mountains of snow; so, in summer, two hours travel will lead you from the strong, cool, bracing winds and dense fogs of the coast line into the intense heat of the valleys, and a few hours later you can bathe your tem- ples in the snows of the Sierras and the icy waters of Lake Tahoe ; or, travelling south, you will reach the alkaline flats of D»'alh valley, and the burning sands of Fort Yuma — the hottest spot on the American con- tinent, if not the ho(l(;st in the world, where the average annual temperature is 7 V' I'l the shade, the thermometer often Hljiiding lau" in tlie shade for a month at a time. The evenness of the temix^rature of lta(|fo|/ila as a whole is unsurpassed on tne globe, fxcfl/t \\\ one or two instances; and the mean tempenjluff t\\ Rnn \'\i\\\ cisco shows a climate varying but two dLgrt:es \\\\ an CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE. 303 average of the twelve months of the year — the average of January being 49°, and of June 56°, the annual average being 54°. Fort Yuma, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, has a temperature in June of 87°, and in January of 56°, and an annual temperature of 73°; Sacramento has a temperature in June of 71°, and in January of 45°, with an annual temperature of 59°. Steilacoom, Washington Territory, has a temperature in June of 60°, and of iZ° in January, and an annual temperature of 50° ; the city of Mexico has a tempera- tu; in June of 65°; and in January of 52°, arid an annual temperature of 60°; New York, 67° in June, and 31° in January, and an annual temperature of 51°; New Orleans, 81° in June, and 55° in January, and an annual temperature of 69°; Honolulu, 77° in June, 71^ in Jan- uary, and an annual temperature of 75°; London, 58° in June, 37° in January, and an annual temperature of 49° ; Naples, 70^^ in June, 46° in January, and ai\ annual temperature of 60° ; Funchal, 67° in June, 60° i'l Jan- uary, and an annual temperature of 65°; Canton. 81° in June, 52° in January, and an annual temperature ot 69° ; Nagaski, ']']^ in June, 43° in January, and an annual temperature of 62° ; Jerusalem, 71° in June, 47° in Jan- uary, and an annual temperature of 62°. It will be observed that the climate of California resembles closely the favored lands of the olive, the fig, and the orange ; and that the climate of San Francisco approaches regularity the year round, with greater similarity than any place named except Honolulu and Funchal, and that Naples itself is surpassed by the beautiful regular climate of the great interior valleys of California, which, up to the fortieth parallel, (the south- ern line of Humboldt county,) has the annual average 304 THE GOLDEN STATE. (60°) of Asia Minor, Central Italy, Spain, and Northern Syria; while the southern limit of the State, in the vicinity of San Diego and in the direction of the Colo- rado and Gila, has the mean annual temperature of Cairo (70°) and the northern portion of Africa; and in portions of the San Joaquin valley. Death valley, and the sandy deserts of the southern side of San Bernardino county, adjoining Arizona Territory, we have the sum- mer climate of the Great Desert of Sahara. California, in the early part of May, is the loveliest spot on earth : the deep rich soil of the valleys and the sides of the hills, as far as the eye can reach, wave with luxuriant wheat, barley, and oats bursting into head ; while all the unfilled land — valley, hills, and even the steep mountain sides — are covered with wild oats, and variegated flowers of every tint and hue, pink and orange being the predominant colors. Hundreds of thousands of acres, bedecked in the charming robes of spring, whose golden fleece is unbroken by a single tree, rock, or other obstruction, roll in seeming undu- lating waves until their outlines are lost in the distance. It was over these charming valleys — a terrestrial paradise — that the eye of the pious missionary father wandered, as the tattooed aborigines lazily wended their way from their mountain homes to the foot of the cross. Here the vaquero coursed upon his fleet steed, as he cir- cled the countless herds, ere the invading hand of agri- culture turned the furrow, or the husbandman broke the primitive order of nature. California is eminently a land of flowers, and if the invasion of civilization has broken the natural beauty of the vast valleys and rolling hills by the uniformity of whea .-fields, vinejards, orchards, and flower-gardens, it SOIL AND AGRICULTURE. 305 has introduced scientific industry, refinement, and happy homes, whose intelligent occupants subdue the sterile sand-hills of San Francisco and the arid plains of the interior, where the domestic comforts of home are in strong contrast with the pastoral semi-barbarous lives of the early Spanish settlers of the country, and the perpetual bloom of the rose, lily, and honeysuckle so abundant every month in the year, will compensate for the partial loss of the wild flowers of the vale. May is the most charming month in the year in Cali- fornia: the last showers of spring invigorate vegeta- tion ; wheat is in head, orchards in bloom, every thing green, bright, and clean ; haying is vigorously prose- cuted. By the end of May the wild flowers disappear, and June ushers in harvest, with rustling fields of wheat. At this time grass and flowers are all dried up, and the whole face of the country wears a browned and parched appearance except the oaks, orchards, and vineyards, which latter retain their verdure until No- vember. The grass, which during the dry season ssems parched, retains all its strength, and instead of being dead is only cured by the sun, affording nutritious pasturage until die fall rains destroy it and start the new grass. The great w^keat-crop of Califcmia, in some instances consisting of ten thousand acres in a single field, is cut with reapers of the most approved style. Some of these machines clip only the heads off tlie field, leaving the body of the straw standing : the grain in this form is carried Erectly to the thresher, which is located in the op<'n ficid; kere it is threshed, and put in sacks of alwDut two hundred pounds each. The long-continued dry season has thoroughly dried the grain on foot, so 3o6 THE GOLDEN STATE. that it is ready for the mill, or for shipment in bulk or sacks on shipboard to any part of the world. The grain once in sacks, it is piled in great heaps upon the open field, where it may remain secure from a drop of rain until November ; or, if it is transported to shipping points, it is piled up in great heaps upon the piers and wharves until it is shipped. So dry is the grain that it can be taken directly from the thresher and shipped to Liverpool, China, or Australia without sustaining any damage, and the mills in many instances have to dampen it before they can grind it into flour. A peculiarity of the wheat of California is, that however ripe or' long it stands in the field it does not shell : the Htde capsule which holds the kernel being strong, and not opened by rain or any change in the weather. In ordinary seasons enough grain shells in the hand- ling to make seed; and, should the ground remain unploughed, the rains of winter will beat the grains into the mellow earth, and in a short time a spontaneous crop will spring up: thus good harvests of grain are often obtained for two or three seasons without either ploughing or sowing. But sowing every year, with deep ploughing and summer fallowing, as in other countries, produces the best crops. As horses, cattle, and sheep live out in the open fields during the entire winter or rainy season, there is no at- tention paid to saving straw or foddei of any kind, except for the towns and cities ; so that the custom of farmers all over the State and in Oregon is, to burn the straw upon the field, and during the fall months vast fires can be seen consuming the piles of straw where the thresher stood, or sweeping the tall stubble from the field. SOIL AND AGRICULTURE. 307 - Farmers, however, are now beginning to learn the folly of consuming what, in seasons of protracted drought, and during the long and sometimes cold rains of winter, might save their stock from destruction, ind are abandoning the burning of their straw, collecting it into vast piles and stacks, and in some instances erecting sheds over it. Here, secure from rain or from the scorching heat of summer, cattle will collect and feed freely. As the pasturage range is circumscribed by fencing and cultivation, the necessity of preserving every spear of fodder will press itself upon the intelli- gent farmer until the folly of straw-burning will be entirely abandoned. Storms are very rare on the Pacific coast, and such hurricanes as sweep over the Atlantic States and por- tions of Europe are unknown Occasionally a stiff northwest breeze is felt along the coast line, and the usually tranquil waters of the deep Pacific lash with great fury upon the coast. But the interior of the whole country, through each month of the year, is calm. Along die Coast Range, fir trees, three hundred feet in height, toss their lofty heads without the loss of a limb, half-decayed trees stand upon their frail pedestals, and tenements of light boards are unmoved. Fitful gusts, gales, thunder, and hail-storms are unknown. During the spring and summer months occasional claps of thunder may be heard in the Sierra range; but at San Francisco and throughout the body of the State thunder is not heard nor lightning seen more than once in each three or four years, and then but in their fetblest forms. In the southeastern portion of the State, where vast alkaline and sandy deserts stretch for leagues, what is r:i til ri 3o8 THE GOLDEN STATE. termed sand stornis interrupt the traveller and fill the air with clouds of impenetrable dust. These storms are of but short duration, but their violence strikes ter- ror to man and* beast; and when the traveller is over- taken by one of these storms, which obscures the sun with volumes of dust, blinds the eyes, and cuts the cheeks with flying sand and gravel, his progress is im- possible: all former signs of roads are obliterated, and the only alternative is to come to a halt and with blanket, coat, or shawl wrap head, face, and mouth of man and beast to prevent suffocation, and lie still until the fury of the gale is spent MPMMP AGRICULTURE AND COMMERCE. 309 CHAPTER XXIII. Agriculture — ^Manufactures — Commerce — ^First agriculture in Amer- ica — Increase of agriculture in California — Decline of mining — Decay of mining to^vns — Area of California — ^Agricultural lands — , Spanish grants — ^Vast estates — How to obtain public lands — School lands — ^Who may secure the public lands — Grain, fruit, and vegetable growing — ^Yield of grain per acre — Harvesting — Wild oats — ^Wild mustard — Hops — Potatoes — Tobacco — Large vegetable growths— Strawberries-r-Tropical fruits — Oranges, figs, and nuts — The grape — Fertility of the Sierras — ^Tca culture — Beet sugar — Cotton and rice — Silk culture. ^ From the earliest history of the human race down to the present time no pursuit or occupation has so mate- rially aided in developing the physical, mental, and moral condition of man as that of agriculture. Com- merce has brought with it adventure, deception, opu- lence, and power : so it has induced craft, dissipation, voluptuousness, and vice. Manufactures have stimu- lated invention, introduced new and useful commodities, and, in some instances, relieved man from oppressive physical labor: they have also crowded and huddled people together in the unwholesome atmosphere of cities and factories, and enfeebled the race in the pur- suit of the tinselled c isplay and allurements of wealtJli. Art has beautified the abodes of men, spread the broad sails of commerce, and !<: nt a charm to life : so, too, it has induced frivolity, and, when uncontrolled, has fear- fully pandered to the vices of the times. Science has gauged the celestial and terrestrial bodies, measured the depths of oceans, the heights of mountains, and the degrees of heat and cold ; analyzed the earth, separated and purified metals, traversed continents, subdued the n mm^^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■- IIIIM |50 1^ IM iiiii !" 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- hundred to fifteen hundred each. The California orange has no superior anywhere : they are sweeter and finer-flavored than any of the imported, and the best qualities from the Sandwich and other Pacific islands are little sought after when California oranges are in supply. Lemons are grown chiefly in the southern part of the State ; but, like the orange, the cultivation is fast creep- ing toward the Sierras, and, of late years, farmers are planting lemon trees as high up as Amadore, Calaveras, and Humboldt counties. They can be grown in every county in the State. Limes are cultivated to a limited extent; and, with proper attention, could be made a profitable branch of industry. Mexico and Central America, both of which produce great quantities of limes, offer a strong compe- tition in the lime trade. Figs grow all over the State : the southern and cen- tral portions produce most abundandy, but they are grown in almost every county. Sacramento and Santa Barbara are the chief producing counties. The fig FRUITS And vegetables. 331 grows throughout the foot-hills and up in the Sierras — as high up as Humboldt and Siskiyou counties. The trees produce most abundantly, grow very large, and bear two crops per year. Large quantities of figs are dried and sold throughout the coast. Olives are grown in thirty counties in the State. There are about thirty thousand olive trees in Califor- nia, more than half of which are in Santa Barbara county. The olive is cultivated along the western slope of the Sierras, but flourishes best in the central and southern sections of the State. Walnuts grow in every county in the State, and are fast attracting the attention of farmers, both on account of their value for shade and timber as well as for the nuts. There are about forty thousand walnut trees in California. Santa Barbara, Sonoma, Los Angeles, and Alameda counties are the largest walnut-producing sections. Almonds thrive throughout the central and southern portion of the State; but, like most of the other fruits and nuts, can be profitably grown in every county in California. About one-quarter of the forty-five thou- sand almond trees in the State is in Santa Barbara county. So far the cultivation of prunes has been very limited. There are only about twelve thousand prune trees in the State. They can be grown up to the Sierras, but grow best in the central and southern sections. Pomegranates have been almost entirely neglected, and the few grown in the State have been as much for ornament as for profit. Plums, cherries, quinces, nectarines, apricots, pears, peaches, and apples grow equally well in every section i 332 THE GOLDEN STATE. of California. Apples, peaches, and pears are produced in immense quantities, and of superior quality. There are about two and a-half million apple trees in the State. Santa Clara and Sonoma counties take the lead in producing apples. The northern portion of the country produces the finest quality, but the apples of Oregon are superior to any raised in California, and the chief winter supply of California is obtained from Oregon. Peaches grow most abundantly, and are of supenor quality. During the summer months the whole country seems to be flooded with peaches. There are about one million producing trees in the State. Santa Clara, Sonoma, Sacramento, Yolo, and San Joaquin are the chief producing counties. With strawberries ripe in February, (they are in the market eleven months in the year,) cherries in May, peaches in June, and all the varieties of fruits, nuts, and berries through the spring, summer, and fall months — with vegetables fresh from the field every day in the year — it may be said that the markets of California are constandy supplied with a greater variety and better quality of fresh vegetables, fruits, and berries than any other portion of the world. It, however, requires that skilled labor and condensed population which induces competition and economy to develop the great hidden resources of the rich soil and semi-tropical climate of California. The Grape. — California beyond all doubt is the greatest grape-producing country in the world. Grapes grow in every county in the State, from the aerial heights of Alpine and Siskiyou counties to the waters of the Colorado, and produced in an abundance un- THE GRAPE. 333 known elsewhere. It is estimated that there are thirty- five million grape-vines in the State, and that when these are in full bearing they will produce thirty-five million gallons of wine annually. The long, dry sum- mers of California, with the air so pure, is peculiarly adapted to the ripening and drying of the grape. Throughout the long, dry summer the leaves and branches of the grape are green ; and from September until Christmas the markets are fiooded with grapes of great size, variety, and richness, and at very low prices. The yield of wine to the acre, in California, is more than double the average of the best wine countries of Europe. California produces a thousand gallons to the acre; while the product of European wine-growing countries is only about four hundred gallons. Large quantities of grapes are converted into wine and brandy and consumed for table use. In some counties species suited to making raisins are grown; but the greater part of the grapes raised are the Mission or California. They are smaller and sweeter than most other varieties; but the wine produced is inferior and is much cheaper than from the European species grown in the State. California produces from eight thousand to ten thousand pounds of grapes to the acre ; while Ohio produces but five thousand pounds, and France but three thousand pounds. Wine in quantity can be bought at the cellars in California at from twenty-five cents to seventy-five cents per gallon, according to the quality and variety of grapes used. Grapes bought by the whole crop in the vineyard bring only from one to one and a-half cents per pound; but in locations where grapes are sold for table use, and even in some instances when m. Kilt y 334 THE GOLDEN STATE, made into wine, a gross income of from five hundred dollars to two thousand dollars per acre is realized; but generally on cheap varieties from fifty dollars to two hundred dollars per acre is an average net profit. Almost the entire labor connected with grape culture is performed by Chinese. The cultivation of foreign species of grapes is of late years attracting attention, and many of these varieties grow most luxuriantly, and sell at most remunerative prices. The Flaming Tokay, White Tokay, Black Malvoisie, Muscat of Alexandria, Golden Chasselas, Rose of Peru, Black and White Hamburg, all grow well. In early days the mission fathers thought the deep, rich bottom lands the best suited to the grape : in their notions, however, they were mistaken. The grapes grown upon the highlands, and even up through the foot-hills, and grapes grown in the Sierras, are finer in flavor and make superior wine to those of the same varieties in the rich lowlands. The vines bear at two years old, and at three and four years produce abun- dantly. Sonoma, Los Angeles, Sacramento, Napa, and El Dorado are the chief grape-producing counties in the State. Grapes are grown in every county in Cali- fornia, and the foot-hills and every foot of soil along the mountain sides and the ridges of the Sierras will pro- duce choice grapes. There are thh'ty million '^r.res of land in California upon which grapes can be grown; and that California will eventually become the great centre of wine producing in the world seems to be but a question of time. The wine product of the State, for 1872, is estimated at ten million galions, besides two million gallons of grape brandy. ica. AGRICULTURE. 335 The largest and most productive grape-vine in the world is in California, at Montecito, Santa Barbara county. In 1 765, Senora Dominguez, then a little girl, was making a journey on horseback toward her home: she had in her hand for a whip a grape-vine. After rid- ing awhile she observed that the vine was budding in her hand, and, on her arrival at home, she planted it. It grew ; and to-day is fresh and vigorous, although it is entered upon its second hundredth year. From this single sprig has grown a stem eighteen inches in diam- eter, with innumerable branches and off-shoots covering an area one hundred and twenty feet in length and eighty feet in width, and producing between three and four tons of grapes annually. This vine and its pro- duce had for almost a century been the chief support and shelter of its planter: for one hundred years Senora Dominguez lived beneath the hospitable shade of this vine, and on ihe 9th day of May, 1865, at the ad- vanced age of one hundred and five years, and just one hundred years from the time she had planted it, sur- rounded by over three hundred of her offspring, in children, grandchildren, great-grandchildren, and great-great-grandchildren,. Senora Dominguez died, leaving her generous vine still fresh and vigorous. The great growth and productiveness of this vine is attrib- uted by some to the fact that its roots a.re watered by a mineral spring adjacent. Tea. — China and Japan are the great supply foun- tains of all the tea used throughout the globe. From the palace of the Czar, the courtly halls of Westminster, and throughout every town, village, and home in Amer- ica, may be found, as u staple household luxury, this 1 336 THE GOLDEN S.TATE. Oriental herb, so long the leadinp^ export of China, and one of the most extensive imports of America. It has long been asserted by men of experience that the climate and soil of California were well adapted to tea-growing. But, strange to say, although Chinese have been located in every section of the State, no attempt had been mr.de to grow tea until the summer of 1869, when Herr Schnell, an intelligent German, skilled in tea-growing in Japan, arrived with a small colony of Japanese tea-farmers and founded a colony in El Dorado county. The soil of diis place is sandy, and rather dry. Tea plants, to be healthy, should not be planted in very moist soil. That upon the higher and dryer portion of this pWntation is more prosperous than the other. The tea seed is about the size of an ordinary marble. They are first planted in hills, about a hundred in each hill. It takes about ten days for them to sprout; when they do, the seed is halved exactly in the centre. After the plants are about a year old, they are fit to transplant. This is done in two ways : one way, and the best, is to form a hill about eighteen inches across, the same as in raising melons ; four plants describe a foot square in the circle. No irri- gation is necessary after the plants get a fair start. There are over four hundred thousand in this planta- tion. The hills should be six feet apart one way, and eight feet the other. Another way of planting is in hedges, three rows in each hedge, with half as many in the centre as in the outside rows. Eighty-seven thousand of these are set out. There are also five million seeds planted in hills, on the place. The tea plants will attain a growth of six feet, but for use are never allowed to grow over three feet. All are growing finely upon this TEA AND ITS PRODUCTION. 337 place, and from samples raised it is almost beyond a doubt that tea-raising in California will yet prove a success. Owing to the fact that the land upon which Mr. Schnell's plantation was located was more valuable for gold -mining than for agriculture, and the repeated invasion of the miner, he was, in 1872, compelled to abandon it; thus ending the first practical effort in tea-growing in the State. But one variety or kind of tea is known, and is the one designated by Dr. von Siebold as the simeusis Linn. All of the varieties described by botanists under the names bohea, viridis, laden, stricta, &c., are only varia- tions of the simensis Linn., produced by different modes of cultivation and geographical distribution. Dr. von Siebold places the simensis wv^di^x \ht. monaddphia poly- andHa Linn., and to the natural family of the cameleia- rum decam. The tea shrub in Japan is an evergreen, from four to six feet high, with a straight stem, and numerous irregular branches. Growing wild, the shrub will reach a height of fifteen or twenty feet. The stem is of a bright gray color, the branches chestnut, and the wood hard, and having a peculiar odor. On the young branches are the short, soft, green, small leaves, which are arranged in intervals, and are of an elliptical shape, with teeth on the borders, resembling closely the leaves of the wild rose. The color is a bright green, of dif- ferent shades, deepening as the season advances. Between the leaves sprout the blossoms, which are at first of a rose color, but in the course of their develop- ment assume lighter shades, and finally, when full blown, are of the color of the ordinary tea-rose. They have no odor, and are very tender, but are put to no use. 33 38 THE GOLDEN STATE, The Story that these flowers are preserved for mixing teas that are only drunk by the emperor and the nobility is a fabrication. When these flowers fade away, they leave a small fruit, which is divided into two or three partitions, generally three, which contain the seed^. Owing to the great quantity of oil contained in these seeds, they are difficult of preservation, and easily decay. The tea shrub is very easy of cultivation, and will grow nearly everywhere with plenty of air and sun, but cannot live in shady places. The new plants are raised from seeds, v/hich are planted in rows in furrows from four to six inches deep, in a manner similar to that in which beans are usually planted ; but, out of this num- ber of seeds, probably but a few in each hill will sprout, owing to the decay produced by the excessive quantity of oil they contain. The proper time for tea-planting is in November or December, when it sprouts through the ground in about thirty days. By the ensuing May, the plant reaches a height of about fourteen inches, when the perfect and tender leaves are stripped off", and are placed under immediate manipulation. They are first put in a large copper pan and roasted, then put in baskets and shaken and swung in the wind until they are dried of the moisture that has been exuded by the heat, then roasted again, then rolled in the palms of the hand to separate the leaves, and prevent their crumbling into powder, then dried again in the baskets by shaking and swinging, and then put in jars, when tliey are ready for market. The black teas are roasted three times, the green teas but once or twice. Every year the trees or shrubs are trimmed down to a height of about three feet ; after having reached that height, and when prop- BEET SUGAR. 339 erly taken care of, they will produce good crops for upw9,rd of thirty years. It is absolutely necessary that the plants should have the morning sun, and be on the south side of a hill, or the leaves will become yellow, and the tea be of an inferior quality. The soil and climate of California, for the growth and curing of tea, are pronounced unequalled in any part of the world. The foot-hills and western slope of the . Sierras up to the deep snow line are estimated as well adapted to tea-raising. A great portion of the teas now used in the United States come direct by steam- ship from China and Japan toi San Francisco, whence it is transported overland by rail to the Atlantic cities. California cannot be expected to compete with China and Japan in raising tea, if it were only the difference in the cost of labor between them; but at some future period California will doubtless reckon among her varied and remunerative productions that of tea. Beet Sugar. — California possesses many advantages over France, Germany, and other beet-growing coun- tries. The vast alkaline regions of the State, as well as the rich bottom-lands of the valleys, produce beets of enormous size and superior quality, without artificial manure. Owing to the mild climate, beets can remain in the field until they are wanted for use, or, if pulled, can be piled in the open air or under some frail shed without danger of rot or frost. Then, too, owing to the long, dry summer, and bright sun, the California sugar- beet possesses more strength than do the beets of any other portion of the globe. About forty tons of sugar- beet can be grown upon an acre of land in California, i W \\ 340 THE GOLDEN STATE. which can be bought for one-eighth the price of land in Europe, which will not produce one-half the yield,. Europe now derives most of her sugar from the beet, which for more than forty years has kept constantly in- creasing as a basis of permanent supply. More than one thousand beet-sugar mills are now in operation in Europe. Two companies have recently erected beet-sugar mills in California; and a mill in successful operation at Alvarado, Alameda county, has placed a superior article of sugar in the market. The State should not only make all the sugar used on the coast, but soon become a large exporter of that staple of commerce. Cotton and Rice. — Some attempts at raising cotton have been made in California, with good success. In some sections of the southern portion of tlie State cotton will grow well, and the soil and climate seem to be well adapted to its production. Much of the tule and other low and overflowed lands of the State are suited to rice-growing, but so far no practicable attempt has been made in this direction, ex- cept upon a very small scale upon some of the islands in the Sacramento river. Silk. — ^The mulberry tree, upon the leaves of which the silk-worm feeds, grows in every county in Califor- nia; there are half a million trees in the State. Sacra- mento, El Dorado, Yolo, Los Angeles, and Sutter are the chief silk-producing counties. The balmy, even cli- mate of California, free from oppressive frosts, sudden changes, thunder storms, and protracted damps and colds, is peculiarly adapted to the growth of silk and SILK MANUFACTURE. 341 the breeding of the silk-worm. The Japanese worms thrive best in California, and the staple produced is longer and finer than the best varieties of France or Italy. An excellent quality of dress silk has been manufactured in the State; but a general ignorance in reference to the raising and feeding of the worms, and also of the cultivation of the mulberry tree, has gready retarded an important branch of industry, for which ' California is eminently fitted. A small factory, for the manufacture of silk, has been recently erected at San Jose, and one manufacturing thread only at San Francisco. The prospects of Cali- fornia, at some future day, becoming an extensive sil'^ manufacturing district are very encouraging. ■panm MMi 342 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XXIV. Sheep and wool — Horses — Cattle raising and branding — Rodeos — Native horsemanship — Lassoing grizzly bears — Poultry and bees. < Sheep and Wool. — Both the climate and soil of California are admirably adapted to sheep. The even temperature, generally dry weather, freeness from de- structive storms, wide range of pasture, and the fact that sheep do not require shelter or food other than what nature supplies, greatiy reduces the cost and labor so necessary in the Atlantic States and Europe. Flocks in California are free from disease, and the loss by wild animals not a quarter of that throughout the Atlantic States. Sheep grow fast and mature earlier in California than in ..ny other part of America. Ewes generally have lambs when one year old, and twins and triplets are common. The original stock of sheep was of a very inferior quality, and consisted of the remnants of the old mission flocks and bands of very inferior stock brought into the State overland from New Mexico. But as the impor- tance of wool-growing begins to attract attentipn, the stock is exhibiting signs of decided improvement by the introduction of pure-blooded sheep. Still there are flocks of the old stock (Mexican sheep) yet in the State, roaming the sandy and dusty plains of the southern section of California, as much like wolves, as regards wool, as like sheep. This class averages a fleece of wool, sand, and dirt, as it is sheared, of only two pounds. Inferior American sheep in the State average a clip of four pounds ; while merino and improved breeds yield SHEEP AND WOOL. 343 from six or eight to twelve and twenty pounds. The largest fleece produced in the State was by a Frimch merino buck in Monterey county — forty-two pounds. All these weights are given before the fleeces are washed. The raising of sheep for their wool was first com- menced in California in 1853, and since tliat period the increase has been steady. The first exportation of wool from the State was in 1855 — three hundred and sixty thousand pounds. The wool crop of California for 1 87 1 reached twenty-eight million pounds, worth about seven million fiVfe hundred thousand dollars. Of the entire growth, four million pounds were used in the factories in California, and twenty-two million five hun- dred thousand pounds sold in the Atlantic States, of which 2,223,322 pounds went by sea, and 20,100,182 pounds by rail. The remarkable development of wool-growing in California, and the unlimited extent to which it may attain in the genial climate and on the broad ranges of the Golden State, and the importance of this product to the nation, may be ascertained in some degree by the table here giving the export of wool from San Francisco during the past fifteen years: YEAR. FOUNDS. VAI.UB. YBAR. POUNDS. VALUX. 1857. . 1,100,000, . »i73,Soo 1865, . . 6,473.000, . . 1,350,000 1858, . . 1,430,000, . 200,000 1866, . . 4,674,000, . 950,000 1859, . 2,37S.ooo, . 3S3.SOO 1867, . . 7,048,000, . . 1,215,000 i860, . 3,170,000, . 400,000 1868, . . 13,225,000, . . 2,428,000 1861, . 3,730,000, . 510,000 1869, . . 13,274,000, . . 2,454,000 1862, . 5,900,000, . 1,062,000 1870, . . 19,010,000, . . 3,506,000 1863, . 2,270,000, . 1,230,000 1871, . . 22,323,000, . . 6,697',ooo 1864, . . 5,930,000, . 1,252,000 There are about two million five hundred thousand sheep and twenty-five thousand Cashmere and Angora 344 THE GOLDEN STATE. goats in the State. Flocks of three, eight, ten, and twenty thousand are not uncommon; and one sheep- raiser in the southern section of the State, who, in 1853, commenced in poverty to raise sheep, has now about eighty thousand acres of land, and owns forty thousand sheep, chiefly of superior breeds. There are six woollen mills in California, which use annually over four million pounds of wool. Cassi- meres, tweeds, flannels, a variety of other goods, and blankets, are produced at these mills Only the finest grades, of wool are used, and the California made blankets, in size, weight, and fineness, surpass those made in any other part of the world. California is now highest on the list of Virool-producing States in the Union. Cattle. — As early as the first settlement of Cali- fornia, cattle were introduced from Spain and Mexico. But little atte.'ition was paid to milk or butter, and cattle of everv description and age ran wild together. They soon mukiplied, and in great herds grazed upon the hills and roamed the valleys as wild as deer. They were used only for beef and for dieir hides and tallow, which, for many years previous to the American occu- pation of the country, formed the chief export. At this early period cows were never milked; when beef was wanted, the vaquero, reata in hand, mounted his fleet horse, dashed into the band, and, snaring one, led it to the slaughter; or, when hides and tallow were wanted for the trading vessels of the coast, whole herds were slaughtered upon the field, the hides and tallow carried away, and the carcass left where the animal was slain. Great numbers of Spanish cattle still roam SC] va CATTLE AND HORSES. 345 over the southern portion of the State ; these cattle re- semble the wild beasts of the forest more than cows; they are generally of a yellowish-brown or drab color, with large, dark circles round the eyes and nostrils; long, slim legs, as lank as a hound and fleet as a deer; their horns grow immense, sometimes measuring eight feet from tip to tip. As all the herders and vaqueros are always mounted, these catde, not being accus- tomed to see a man on foot, will, when they chance to see one, encircle him, and often with great fury attack him. The introduction of superior stock is fast absorbing the original Sjpanish cattle of the State; but immense bands of Spanish and mixed cattle yet run wild. Except in a few instances where cows are milked, or a few oxen worked, cattle are never handled: they roam, cows, calves, and all, in great herds. Once a year, at least — ^generally in the spring — there is a gen- eral rodeo, or gathering, of the cattle and horses together, that all the young ones may be branded according to law; as a statute imposes the duty upon all stock own- ers to brand with a hot iron all cattle and horses on the hip with some letter or sign, which shall be recorded as their mark. The general rodeo is a season of great activity and excitement, from a week to ten days generally being spent in the exciting business of collecting every de- scription of cattle within a wide district into some small valley, where a corral or pen is erected, the object being to secure every unmarked animal so that the owner may imprint his brand upon it. To accomplish this the vaquero, mounted upon his fleet steed, or a dozen of them thus mounted, gallop in among the • 1 i 346 THE GOLDEN STATE cattle, Others circling the bands to keep them together; pursuit is given to an unbranded animal, the race con- tinuing amidst the swaying, tossing, thousands of cat- tle bellowing, running, pawing, and raising clouds of dust, through which the active riders whirl, gallop, and plunge as they swing their reatas. When an animal is looped by the neck, horns, of foot, it is led to the branding place, secured, and the hot iron pressed deep upon the hip. At these seasons each band is separated, and the vaqueros .keep a kind of guardianship over the herds. During these gatherings the cattle- owners and va- querof v.?.mp out, or at some neighbor's house hold fandangos, and, amidst a copious supply "^f wine and eatables, conclude their great annual rodeo. The horsemanship of the vaquero during these ex- citing scenes is a most interesting feature of the per- formance. The fleetness of horses and the dexterity with which the lasso is thrown a**e often made tests of efficiency between contestants for superior horseman- ship. The horse is so trained that, without the use of bridle or rein, he will follow, however long or devious the course, the animal selected for capture; and, antici- pating every move of his rider, will watch the throwing of the lariat, brace himself, or fall upon his Launches, and, with the raw-hide reata stretched from the cap- tured animal to the pummel of the saddle, lead the most refractor^' animal at will. So expert, too, is the vaquero in the u .e of the Uriat that, coiling it in a loose bunch in his h£ nd, swinging it about his head he will throw the bunch, one end being still fast to the saddle, and snare by the foot, horn, or CATTLE AND HORSES. 347 neck in animal whilst his horse is under full gallop. Should his hat, his knife, or rope fall, he never dis- mounts, and seldom slackens his speed, but, whilst his horse is on the full run, swoops down upon the ground with one hand, while his heel or spur pressed under the saddle-girth holds him to his position on his horse. The greatest skill and dexterity of the vaquero is exhibited in ca*:rhing wild animals. At an early day, and before fire-arms were much in use, wild cattle, horses, elk, deer, and all other animals, whether for domestic uses or for the sake of their flesh, were caught with the lasso; and the Mexican hunter started in pursuit of the grizzly bear mounted upon his fleet pony, and armed only with a raw-h'de rope. Generally three, four, or more of these mounted hunters thus armed v/ould scour the gulches and mountains until they found their game. The formidable grizzly, surrounded by the expert va- queros, would soon find himself snared by the neck by two or three sharp hide ropes, with one end of each fast to the saddle-pummel, and horses drawing in '^ >- posite directions ; thus, half strangled, leaping, and gnawing at the lariat, the unlucky animal is caught by the legs by the reatas of other riders and either despatched by the hunter's knife, strangled to death, or, surrounded by horses and lines, led an unwilling cap- tive to the rancho of the hunter. Some of these en- counters have been most desperate and hard fought. Lassomg grizzly bears is attended with great danger, and few persons knowing the immense strength of these animals desire to experiment upon such game. But the Mexican fears nothing when armed with the reata and mounted upon his horse. Cattle, as well as all other live stock in California, mm 348 ^-SZ GOLDEN STATE. run at large, are never housed, nor receive food, except what nature provides for them. During ^.xtremely dry seasons, when the pasturage becomes scarce, and the soil almost parched, cattle suffer for want of food : at such periods, large numbers are driven to the mountains, generally to the Sierras, where the natural meadows and wild grass s keep green during the greater part of summer. Farmers have been in the habit of buriiin^, their straw upon the field in the fall: of late years, straw has been more generally heaped up in the fields, some- times under large sheds. During the drought of sum- mer and the cold rains of winter, cattle gather round these stacks and keep in good condition, while those having to depend upon what they can gather from the parched soil often suffer. The number of neat cattle in the State is about one million; the largest number in any one county ir- in Merced — sixty thousand ; the next largest numbi . ^ are in Kern, Tulare, Colusa, and San Diego. Ma.*)) county contains about twenty-four thousand head of cattle, and is the greatest dairy county in the State. The celebrated ranche (farm) of the Shafter Brothers, containing seventy-five thousand acres, is in this county: this is supposed to be the largest dairy farm in the world. There are no "dairy-maids" in California, milk- ing and butter and cheese making being done by -:*• :n. The whole State produces about six million pou'uis^ of butter annually, and one-third of this whole amount is produced in Marin count v, v/hich has but about twenty-four thousand neat citde, al' 1 )ld, out of one million, in the State. Merced county, with sixty thou- 5 o ft o 1; C JO CATTLE AND HOFSES. 3^9 sand head of cattle, produces but about nine thousand pounds of butter annually. California produces about five million pounds of cheese annually. Santa Clara and Monterey counties produce jointly three million' pounds, leaving but two million pounds to the entire remainder of the State. Santa Clara county makes as much cheese as all the State, outside of Santa Clara and Monterey counties; Santa Clara county has but twenty-two thousand cattle, seven thousand of which are cows. Spanish cows give but little milk, and in many of the southern counties, where immense herds of cattle roam, rr^t^k, butter, and cheese are unknown. The squatter and i.-^nchero have their frail abodes solitary and alone on the vast plain, or by the side of some sluggish stream or tule bottom ; and here they raise their children, with- out ever tasting milk, butter, or cHeese. It is a strange commentary upon domestic economy to see vast droves of cows, calves and all, running wild, fairly swarming the country, and surrounding the houses in which dwell sickly and green-looking women, who live upon hou biscuits rank with saleratus, squash and salt bacon — they and their children — without knowing the use or benefits of the dairy. In one portion, at least, of the southern counties, where cattle are so numerous that they swarm around the telegraph poles to scratch them- selves in such numbers that they cut down the poles for miles, although they are made of eight-inch-square sawed lumber, and in some instances driven thick with spikes, the cattle swarming round them in a circle, and each one giving a rub in its hurried march; yet in this section the traveller, for a journey of two hundred 350 THE GOLDEN STATE. miles, cannot get a taste of butter or cheese, nor milk to color his black and bitter coffee. Notwithstanding the genial climate, wide range, and splendid pasturage of California, fully one-third of all the butter used in the State is imported from the At- lantic States; this, too, is the case with Oregon, Wash- ington Territory, and British Columbia. The people of these regions send their orders from their perpetual green fields and rich pasturage to New York and even to the icy land of Canada for their butter. This, per- haps, is not worse than sending to Boston, New York, and Philadelphia for dried fruits, from California and Oregon, when thousands of tons of green fruit can be gathered in the orchards of these States, and bought for less than the freight from the east. Through most parts of the Pacific coast dried fruits are imported thousands of miles at great cost, while the ground in many orchards is covered with superior fruit, which rots in tons every year. The Horse. — Of all parts of the world California is the favorite land for the horse : here he has for centu- ries roamed at will over the vast rich valleys, where the native grass, flowers, and wild oats grow luxuriantly. Previous to the American occupation of the country, the horse was not doomed to the servile labor of draw- ing the plow or wheeled carriage, as no such articles were known to the population : his only occupation was to carry his master upon his back ; stables and harness were equally unknown. The original stock introduced into the country from Spain and Mexico possessed excellent qualities for the saddle, being light bodied, high spirited, and fleet. THE HORSE. 351 After roaming wild in great bands, without any care, the stock soon degenerated to all sorts of base colors — claybank, drab, and spotted ; leaving few of the deep bay, iron-gray, pure white, or jet black: still the spirit, endurance, and speed of the original Spani^ stock remained, and, while the California horse became un- fitted for heavy draught, he became the finest saddle- horse in the world, able to carry his rider sixty and one hundred miles in a day over a rough road, and perform these journeys several days in succession, without other food than could be gathered from the soil on his journey. The California horse rarely trots or walks : his gait, under the saddle, is a fast gallop, which he will keep up, over hill and down mountain sides alike, through a whole day's journey, and generally pressing hard on the rein, the whip or spur being rarely necessary. Breaking these horses to the saddle is attended with much diflftculty. Many of them at four, five, and even ten years of age have never been within an enclosure, nor had the hand of man upon them. They are lassoed, like other wild beasts, blindfolded, a saddle and bridle put upon them, and then mounted by the vaquero, (rider.) Rearing, pitching, rolling, and jumping stiff- legged, until they are completely exhausted, is a part of their first exercise. They are, however, soon broken to the saddle, and from the commencement of their training rarely exhibit a vicious disposition, and, when once fairly broken, are kind, gentle, and fond of their master. Horses in California increase fast, and are entirely free from disease : bots, worms, spavin, ringbone, and kindred diseases, are almost unknown. The evenness of the climate, with an abundance of good, wholesome ■■■■■■■■■I 352 THE GOLDEN STATE food, and freedom from unwholesome and close stables and attacks of colds, renders the horse healthy, muscular, sound, and hardy beyond the horses of any other part of the United States, if not of any other part of the world. Of the three hundred thousand horses in California, fully one-half are wild Mexican stock, running in large bands throughout the southern part of the State. Many thousand are owned by persons who know them only by the brand. Throughout the State generally the horse is an in- dispensable domestic servant. Everybody rides: men going to their employment in the fields mount their horses; neighbors visiting, and children going to school in the country, all ride. It is rare to see a person making a journey on foot, except in the mining regions. California has many fine roads, and to all parts of the interior the chief travel is done by stages — large, com- fortable Concord coaches — carrying from twelve to twenty persons, and drawn by four or six horses. Relays of fresh horses are kept at each ten or twelve miles on the road, and while in the coach are generally at a gallop, and the speed with which these horses dash down the mountain sides, and over and along the deep gulches and beside the frowning precipices, is fearful. In the cities and towns, horses are very numerous, and in San Francisco county (which is but the size of the city) there are over ten thousand horses. Los Angeles county has the largest number of horses of any county in the State — fifteen thousand. There being neither timothy nor clover in California, the native grasses, wild oats, oats, and barley, cut green, form the hay-feed of horses. Barley, which grows very abundandy, and has a very large, dry, and plump grain, MULES AND HOGS. 353 is supplied to horses generally, and is supposed to be superior to oats for this purpose. The introduction of superior horses into the State is fast improving the native stock, and the cross between the imported and native horse has many points of superiority not to be found in either in their original purity. Mules are not generally used in the State. At an early day the carrying of freight into the mines and over the mountains was done chiefly by pack-trains of mules ; but of late years rail and wagon roads have supplanted them. There are but about twenty-eight thousand mules in the State, scattered through each county; Mendocino county having about three thou- sand — more than double that of any other county in the State. Mules are no more serviceable than horses, and cost generally more than double as much as the ordinary farm-horse. Much of the heavy hauling and of the labor connected with the government service is still done by mules. Oxen are rarely used, either upon the farm or for general labor, in California ; they are considered too slow, and except in the lumber districts are scarcely to be seen. All the ploughing and farm work is done by horses and mules. Hogs. — The greater part of the State of California is not well adapted for hogs: it is too dry ; but in the tule and low lands they thrive well. Labor and food for hogs are too expensive to make the raising of hogs profitable where they have to be fed by hand. There are six hundred thousand hogs in the State ; still the increase has been but little for many years. Considera- 23 354 THE GOLDEN STATE. ble quantities of bacon and hani are cured in the State; and as the Chinese in the country use no other meat but fresh pork, much of the pork of the State is con- sumed by these people. Poultry — Turkeys, geese, ducks, and hens all thrive well in California, and many a fortune has had its foun- dation laid in the hen's nest, in the State, in the early days when eggs were from three to ten dollars per dozen, and chickens from two to ten dollars per pair. The aggregate number of turkeys, geese, ducks, and fowls In the State is one million five hundred thousand. Bees. — Bees do well all over the Pacific coast. In Oregon they make honey from the branches of the fir trees; and in California the mild climate and the abun- dance of wild flowers enable bees to make honey eight to ten months In the year, and to propagate their species with great rapidity, one hive often producing twenty swarms in a year. The production of honey in Cali- fornia is much greater than In any other part of the United States, and Is about five times as much as is produced In the Atlantic States. There are about sixty thousand hives in California, Colusa count)' having six- teen thousand — more than one-fourth of all the hives in the State: then comes Butte county, with twenty- five hundred hives ; next comes Stanislaus county, with about two thousand hives; and Monterey and Los Angeles counties, with about eighteen hundred each. Bees will thrive well In every county in the State. In the southern section of California great quantities of bees have swarmed In the trunks of hollow trees and become wild. There are great quantities of honey obtained annually from these deserters. THK GIANTESS GF.YSFR. THE GREAT GEYSER OF THE FIRE-HOLE BASIN. (Yellowstone Region, Wyoming Territory. Line of the Northern Pacific Ril^roa-l.) BRIDAL VEIL FALL, YOSEMITE VALLEY. (630 fleet high.) NOTRH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES, YOSEMITE VALLEY. (3,568 feet high above the Valley.) MANUFACTURES. v.^-' 355 CHAPTER XXV. Natural advantages^— Regularity of climate — Perpetual summer — Advantages for manufacturing — Interest on money — Manufacto- ries — Railroads first in California — Great overland railroad : build- ing and completion of — Government aid in bonds and lands to railroads — "The last tie" — Rejoicings at the completion of the great national highway — Ocean, bay, and river navigation — Ship- building — Telegraphs, postage, and post-offioes — United States branch mint — Circulating mc .um — Mints on the Pacific coast — Navy-yard — Commerce — Exports of gold and merchandise — Ag- ricultural and mechanical products — Decline in gold-mining — Shipping of San Francisco — Imports and exports — Effects of the overland railroad. California possesses many natural advantages beyond most other States in the Union, which must ultimately be productive of great benefits. The water- power of the dashing streams of the Sierras alone is greater than the whole water-power of New England; the Coast Range, too, particularly north of San Fran- cisco, as well as many other parts of the State, has vast water-power, only waiting the hand of skilled labor to call it into turning the wheels of an active manufac- ture which must at some day not far distant form an important branch of the industry of the State; nor are these magnificent water-powers subjected to the pinch- ing frosts of winter, which for so many months in the year bind up ^e forces of the streams, clog the wheels, and hold in icy embrace the industry of large sections of the Atlantic coast. The room of the operative need not be heated with air-consuming stoves and ranges, nor the apartments filled with foul air, caused by closed doors and windows; nor the operative himself Imprisoned in dark cells or .-> 356 THE GOLDEN STATE. Steam closets to keep the animal forces ac:ive. The cHmate of the entire State is so mild and the tem- perature so even that the severe colds and diseases engendered by the sudden changes of the weather in the Atlantic States are entirely unknown in Cali- fornia. Neither chilling northern blasts nor drifting snows drive over bleak and barren fields, pinching animal life into trembling and contracted contortions, n Dr frosting the windows and whitening the forests. Winter's gray locks are not shaken with terrible menace in the face of the poor, nor is the approach of the new year looked forward to with contemplations of dreaded cold. Cali- fornia at this season asserts her eternal summer by new robes of green, and the window of the cotter, instead of the ice-crystallizations and snow-bank adornments of the Atlantic slope, are festooned and adorned with running vines; ivy, and delicate flowers. Throughout the State, wherever mechanical skill is exercised and manufactures are carried on, the bene- ficial effects of a genial climate and rich soil are mani- fest by the ea:>e, comfort, and increasing prosperity of the mechanic. With all the natural advantages of Cali- fornia for manufacturing, but little advance has been made, except in the actual necessities for every -day consumption and of the commonest articles of domestic use. The cause of this has been the high rates of wages, the sparse population, and the high rates of in- terest, want of cheap transportation, and many other causes incident to a new country. The crushing of quartz, cabinet work, sawing of lum- ber, casting of iron, and making of flour form the chief bro( MA NUFA CTURES. 357 mechanical industry of the State ; and, although most of tlie raw m.aterial n ecessary in a varied manufacturing industry is produced in great abundance in California — metals, wood, leather, wool, and other articles — yet the State cannot compete in manufacturer with the old, setded portions of America, Europe, and Asia ; where cheap labor, low interest, and systematized skill offset the natural advantages of the Golden State. In many parts of Europe and Asia, capital for mechanical industry can be obtained at from three to seven per cent, per annum ; while in California, short loans, se- cured by good collateral, payable in sixty and ninety days, bear interest at from one to three p'"'* cent, per month. Still, notwithstanding all these drawbacks, Cali- fornia is battling bravely in the field of inechanical In- dustry; and, although her manufactures are confined to a few articles, and within small limits, the efforts in pro- ducing woollen goods, cordage, powder, glass, paper, machinery, pottery, castings, shot, lead pipe, refined sugar, furniture, wood-ware, rolling stock, files, salt, fuse, soap, candles, glue, oil, matches, lime, cement, chemicals, boots and shoes, carriages, agricultural im- plements, saddlery, malting, billferd tables, pianos, brooms, pails, books, clothing, cigars, spirits, ale, and wine form no inconsiderable feature of the prosperity of the State. San Francisco i^ daily growing into im- portance in manufacture, and, by degrees, as the price of labor becomes lower, and the one and a-half and two per cent, per month bankers relax their grip, and money can be obtained at reduced rates of interest, many branches of mechanical industry now struggling for recognition will become extensive and profitable. ■«■ 358 THE GOLDEN STATE. RAILROADS. In 1 841, there were in the whole United States but 3,535 miles of railroad in operation ; in 1850, but 8,876. In 1870, there were fifty thousand miles, of which the six New England States had 4,494, against 589 in 1 841; the six Middle States, 10,991, against 1,837 ^^ 1 841 ; the ten Western States, 23,769, against 196 in 1 841; and the twelve Southern States, 12,468, against 913 in 1841 ; and- the Pacific coast, which as late as 1854 had not a foot and in 1855 but eight miles of rail- road, had, in 1870, 1,677, ^s follows: California, 925; Oregon, 159; and Nevada, 593; all of which have since largely increased, there now being thousands of miles of railroad projected through California, Oregon, Nevada, Washington Territory, Idaho, Arizona, and the entire coast, connecting all the principal towns, valleys, and harbors in the country. The first railroad built in California was the line of twenty-two miles from Sacramento City to Folsom, completed on the ist of January, 1856. The building of other roads soon followed, until the present, when a lively competition has projected and has in active course of construction lines of road running in all di- rections from the great commercial centres of the State, until the rich agricultural valleys lying between the Coast Range and the Sierras, parallel with the ocean and these chains, are completely dotted with projected lines of rail running in all directions, all having connec- tion by land or water with San Francisco. South of the Golden Gate are lines running to San Jos6 and all sections along the southern coast of the State, eventually to reach San Diego, while lines tra- RAILROADS. 359 verse the rich agricultural valleys of the San Joaquin and Tulare, destined to reach the Colorado and • the Southern Pacific roads, sending their laterals in all di- rections to the towns, valleys, and mines on either side; while the Atlantic and Pacific railroad, having its start- ing point on the west side of the Mississippi at St. Louis, Missouri, follows the thirty-fifth parallel of north latitude, passing through Missouri, Indian Territory, New Mexico, and Arizona, crossing the Colorado, enters California, and, passing northwestward through the soutiiern half of the State, reaches San Francisco. Farther south is the Southern Pacific railroad, following from Memphis on the Mississippi a litde west of the thirty-second parallel of north latitude westward through Arkansas, Texas, and the southern section of New Mexico and Arizon rossing the Colorado river close to the Mexican line; Lhence west to the city of San Diego near the southern Hne uf the State of California, where it proceeds northwestward until, like all the others, it finally reaches San Francisco. These two international roads, connt cting the Pacific and the Atlantic, are being vigorousl) pushed to com- pletion ; and will, in their course, develop and settle the vast semi-tropical regions of Southern Caufornia and the rich mineral, agricultural, and gra ag region be- tween the Colorado and the Mississippi through Ari- zona, New Mexico, Texas, and the Indian Territory, affording direct and certain communication, at all seasons of the year, between the Pacific and Adantic; and, finally sending their branches into tropical Mexico, will open up new and rich avenues of exploration, commerce, and settlement, and eventually plant the flag of republican America over the area of the semi-republic of Mexico, 36o THE GOLDEN STATE. North and east of S'^n Francisco are lines built and projected in all directions, leading through the valleys of the Coast Range to Humboldt and other points in the northern extreme of the State ; while lines, connect- ing by boat at San Francisco with Oakland, Vallejo, and San Rafael, lead east and north to all the principal interior towns and valleys, and extend finally to the Oregon State line, where they join lines of railroads through the rich valley of the Wallamet and other sec- tions of Oregon, and finally northward, crossing the Columbia river, and still on, across Washington Tcri- tory, until they reach, by direct and continuous rail, every portion of the continent from Pictou and Halilax, Nova Scotia, Boston, St. Louis, Mexico, California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, right up to the British line on the Pacific ocean, at the. forty-ninth de- gree of north latitude. 'central pacific railroad. On the 8th day of January, 1863, ground was first broken at the city of Sacramento, California, and labor begun upon this national highway, which cuts the Sierras and Rocky mountains, spans vast plains, deserts, and prairies, and unites th^ Atlantic and Pacific by continu- ous iron rail. In its connections it forms a chain of road across the entire continent, a distance of three thousand threti hundred and twenty-three mile;, from San Francisco 10 New York city. It is eight hundred and eighty miles from San Francisco to Ogden, at the northern end of Great Salt lake, Utah Territory, which is the eastern end of this road; from this point eastward to Omaha, Nebrar.ka, on the western bank of the Mis- souri river, a distance of one thousand and thirty-three CAPE HORN — CENTRAI, PACIFIC RAILROAD, SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. (Can 9,5t altitude on this line from San Franc'sco to New York is on the 362 THB. GOLDEN STATE. summit of the Rocky mountains, at Sherman, in Wy- oming Territory, on the Union Pacific road, 1,365 miles east of San Francisco. This point has an altitude of 8,242 feet above the level of the sea. The highest point on the Central Pacific road, from San Francisco to Ogden, is in the Sierras, two hundred and forty-three miles from San Francisco, at Summit, and a few miles west of the eastern State line of California. At this point the altitude reaches a height of 7,017 feet above the level of the sea. This great rtational highway in its course passes in a northeasterly direction from San Francisco, through the States of California and Nevada and a portion of Utah Territory, until it reaches Ogden, in Utah Territory, a little north of Great Salt lake. At this point the road runs almost due east, passing through the southern side of Wyoming Territory for its entire length, and through the entire length of Nebraska, fol- lowing the course of the Platte river, to Omaha; thence along the southern side of the State of Iowa, and through Illinois, to the city of Chicago, on the south- western shore of Lake Michigan, where it joins the great network of railroads spreading over the entire country south, east, and north of this point. This great continental highway was begun and its construction vigorously prosecuted during the internal war in America, from 1861 to 1865; and throughout all that critical and eventful period received the foster- ing care and stimulus of the national government, and the people on both sides of the continent took the deep- est interest in its success, and the States and Territo- ries through which it passes aided it financially in a most liberal manner. To the two companies building RAILROADS. 363 the road — the Central Pacific on'the California yicle, and the Union Pacific on the eastern side — the National Congress donated by grant," iny^^ simple, alternate sec- tions of land along the line of the roads of these two companies amounting to 1 2,800 acres per mile, for each mile built, from Sacramento to Omaha, or an aggregate of 22,707,200 acres. Of this grant the Central Pa- cific received 8,832,000 acres, and the Union Pacific 1 3»8 75,200 acres. The federal government also loaned to these two companies ^52,840,000 of six per cent, thirty years bonds, and guaranteed the interest on the companies' first mortgage bonds to an equal amount — the interest paid by government on these bonds to be paid back by the companies. These are the most munificent dona- tions ever made by any nation to any project or for any purpose in any age. The two companies build- ing this road built the number of miles, and received the amounts of the national donation, as follows: Cen- tral Pacific built six hundred and ninety miles and re- ceived $24,386,000; the Union Pacific (from Ogden to Omaha) built 1,084 n^iles and received $28,456,000. The grant was distributed per mile, according to the difficulty in constructing: over the plains, sixteen thou- sand dollars per mile ; second class, thirty-two thou- sand dollars per mile; and for the mountains, forty- eight thousand dollars per mile. Of these classes of road the companies built as follows, (which will account for the seeming small proportion received by the Union Pacific Company :) the Central Pacific (California) built twelve miles at sixteen thousand dollars per mile, five hundred and twenty-two miles at thirty-two thousand dollars per irile, and one hundred and fifty-six miles at 364 THE GOLDEN STATE. forty-eight thousand dollars per mile ; the Union Pacific Company built five hundred and twenty-six miles at sixteen thousand dollars per mile, four hundred and eight miles at thirty-two thousand dollars per mile, and one hundred and fifty miles at forty-eight thousand dollars per mile. For more than half a century the subject of connect- ing the Pacific and Atlantic sides of the continent by rail had been agitated ; but the friends of such a scheme were ridiculed by those who contemplated the vast arid plains and the stern Rocky mountains and Sierras, con- sidered insurmountable barriers. Indeed, many of those who most zealously advocated the practicability of a railroad crossing these formidable mountain chains were regarded as insane, and not until the indomitable Californian had scaled the Sierras, and pierced their mighty granite ribs, did the people of the country become inspired with the possibility of uniting the East and the Pacific slope by rail; but the patient sons of the Orient, under the lead of American skill, toiling through and over the Sierras, gave confidence to the people of the Atlantic side, who set their faces toward the setting sun, and advanced to meet the laborers marching east. The Central Pacific Company having completed the road from the waters of the Pacific to Promontory, in Utah Territory, and the Union Pacific Company having finished that from Omaha westward to Promontory, great preparations were made for celebrating the join- ing of the iron band connecting the East and che West. After six long years of unremitting toil, the task was ended: the army of eight thousand of the meek disciples of Confucius, headed by skilled engi- of CONTINENTAL RAILROAD. 30.) neers, had subdued nature in the formidable Sierras; bridges spanned deep and awful gorges, and angry, foaming streams; long tunnels pierced solid granite domes, and deep scars found safe footing for the iron horse round the sharp curves of frowning granite bat- tlements and bold, projecting bluffs. The division from the East had passed the vast deserts dotted with neg- lected graves and the bleaching bones of the over- burdened beast which fell by the wayside, and climbed the stern sides of the Rocky mountains. It was a meeting of the extremes of the nation — the joining of the East and the West. The day came upon which the last tie and the last rail were to be put in place : trains from the East arrived from the shores of the Atlantic gayly bedecked with flags, mottoes, and devices of victory; and up from the Golden Gate, in the Far West, where the setting sun bathes in the calm waters of the Pacific, came the hardy sons of California, with their callous hands and open hearts, to join their brothers of the East; from the East, dashing over vast plains, and bounding over the Rocky mountains, and from the West, over the eternal snows and through the storm- clouds of the Sierras, came the impatient steed, whose fiery breath and hoarse shriek put to flight the children of the forest. In this triumphal train from the West came the "last tie" — a polished laurel from the golden shore of California — and the "last spike," of pure gold from the rocks of the Sierras. In the midst of the vast concourse from the East and West, the almond-eyed son of Asia, facing East, and the sturdy Celt and Saxon, facing West, join hands, as with uncovered heads, beneath the ensign of the republic, and amidst the firing of cannon, ringing of bells, and screaming of ■I IBP 366 THE GOLDEN STATE. whistles, the last tie was laid and the last spike driven in the national highway joining the two great oceans. Extensive preparations had been made to celebrate the completion of this great work throughout the whole country. A telegraph station at the junction was so arranged that instant communication could be sent to all parts of the republic of the final joining of the rails, and the firing of guns by electricity at remote points. At twelve o'clock M., on the loth of May, 1869, the President of the Central Pacific road, with gold ham- mer in hand, stepped forward; a blessing was invoked by a clergyman present, all heads uncovered; a g«"nue blow of the hammer fell upon the last spike : the in > tlon of the blow fired a fifteen-inch Parrott gun at the Golden Gate, eighi hundred and eighty miles distant^ rang the bells in the cities of San Francisco, Chicago, New York, Boston, Halifax, Nova Scotia, and other places ; and the people throughout the land spent the day in rejoicing at the completion of the grandest work of man ever undertaken, and the greatest triumph of art over nature. The completipn of this national highway must even- tually be of incalculable benefit to the whole country. Already has it brought what had seemed to be remote dependencies of the republic into close fellowship and active commercial relations with the Atiantic States, and brought the vast Pacific slope within easy support- ing distance of the nation in case of foreign invasion or internal rebellion. San Francisco has suffered from the immediate effects of the road in its diverting the channels of travel and trade ; but what San Francisco loses will be more than gained by the State at large in its intercourse with the '^^.imm^ OCEAN, BAY, AND RIVER NAVIGATION. \^1 East, and in the establishment of commercial affairs upon a safer and more stable basis than has yet been known on the lacific coast. The protracted snow blockade on the overland road during the greater part of the months of December, 1871, and January and February, 1872, has demon- strated that but litde interruption need be anticipated west of the Rocky mountains. On the entire line of 1,341 miles from San Francisco to Laramie, a little west of the crest of the Rocky mountains, no interruption whatever has been experienced; although in the Sierras the road is 7,01 7 feet above the sea and snoyr falls from ten to forty feet in some places. The whole difficulty with snow on this road has been within a range of two hundred miles of the crest of the Rocky mountains, extending about one hundred miles on each side. Here the altitude is from 7,000 to 8,242 feet, and the fierce gale sweeping over the vast plains and mountains, bald, bleak, and dreary, without tree or shrub to interrupt it, drives snow hardened in its course and mixed with sand and gravel, filling the depressions in the road and banking the plains time and again, defying the feeble efforts of shovel and snow-plow. OCEAN, BAY, AND RIVER NAVIGATION. The inland waters of California are all well supplied with steamboats and sailing craft. The bay of San Francisco is navigated by steamboats — models of supe- rior skill, elegance, speed, and comfort. Ferry-boats ply in all directions from San Francisco about the bay and rivers, and the Sacramento and San Joaquin are navigated by swift and elegant boats. The inauguration of railroads in the State has re- 363 THE GOLDEN STATE. lieved the people from the oppressive monopoly main- tained for twenty years on the inland waters of Cali- fornia by the " California Steam Navigation Company," which, during that period, had bought off more than one hundred steamers^ most of which were tied up and allowed to rot along the river banks, while rates of passage and freight were maintained at fabulous and ruinous prices; while "opposition" steamers were bought off or sunk by the soulless corporation, which, while it paid millions to its stockholders, imposed a cruel oppression upon the people, believed in the aggregate to be a fit subject for plunder and insult. During a brief period of "opposition" on the inla;id waters, passage would fall from ten dollars to one dollar, and even at times passengers would be carried between San Francisco and Sacramento and Stockton for fifty cents each, finally free, and in some instances they were paid a dollar a head to go on certain steamers, where free meals and cigars were supplied to all, and a choice band of music discoursed to happy crowds surrounded with festivities and flying flags. Those were seasons of joy for the "runner," whose hoarse voice and wild grimaces startled and be- wildered the unoffending pedestrian, who found him- self and "baggage" swooped up and unceremoniously hurled on board the "accommodation" steamer. But these seasons were brief. Soon the "opposition" would quietly lie at the river bank or bottom of the bay, the flags would be lowered, music hushed, the excited crowd and wild "runners" dispersed, and, solitary, silent, and sad, the plodding "miner" approached the narrow plank, at the end of which a savage hireling grabbed his last ten dollars, thrusting him rudely by. SHIP-BUILDINL 369 Scores of sailing vessels are also engaged in navi- gating the inland waters and coast of California, Oregon, Washington Territory, and all parts of the waters north and south of San Francisco, and the islands ox the Pacific ocean, Mexico,. Central and South America. Fleets of clipper ships, from all parts of the commer- cial world, enter and depart through the Golden Gate, freighted with merchandise for California, and carrying away wheat, flour, copper, silver and other ores, hides, wool, wine, and other merchandise. Ocean oteamers run regularly from San Fnmcisco to every harbor of interest in the State, and lines of swift and elegant steamers ply between the city of San Francisco and Oregon, Washington Territory, British Columbia, Alaska, Japan, China, Sandwich islands, Aus- tralia, Mexico, and Central America. The steamers run- ning from San Francisco to China, Japan, and Panama, for elegance, speed, and capacity, are unequalled in the world, far surpassing any of the boats running between the Adantic ports of America and Europe. On the 5th of May, 1870, the steamship Idaho arrived at San Francisco, from Honolulu, Sandwich islands, with freight and passengers which she received on board at the former port from the steamship Wanga-Wanga, direct from Australia and New Zealand, being the pio- neer voyage of a line of steam communication established between San Francisco and Australia and New Zealand. SHIP-BUILDING. But Htde has been done in ship-building in California. Some river streams and small sailing craft have been constructed about thie Bay of San Francisco, chiefly out of timber taken from old vessels or imported from mmmmm 370 THE GOLDEN STATE. Oregon, Washington Territory, or the Atlantic States. The higher rates of wages and exorbitant prices of all material necessary in the construction of vessels would be sufificient to retard this branch of industry in the State; but the most serious drawback, and the one which must prohibit any success in ship -building in California, is the scarcity of the necessary timber so essei^tial in this branch of industry. California furnishes but little timber fitted for ship-building. The oak of the State is of a coarse-grained, scrubby nature, shaky and liable to split very mnch when exposed to the sun ; and the knees and crooks so indispensable in every vessel cannot be found in any part of the State, and must be imported either from the Atlantic States or from Oregon, where an inferior article of fir, cedar, and oak knees and crooks can with difficulty be obtained. The only timber in the State usdul in ship-building is the fir of the north- ern portion of the State, which makes excellent plank for sides and deck. The whole Pacific coast is destitute of beech, birch, maple, hemlock, juniper, and Canada spruce, all of which supply the material for ship-buildirvg in such abun- dance and excellent quality in Maine and British North America. Puget sound, in Washington Territory, owing to its deep water and proximity to a better supply and greater variety of timber than is to be found on any other part of the Pacific coast, has the only inducements on the whole Pacific to offer to those interested in naval archi- tecture ; but the advance made in the past few years in constructing iron ships in the yards of Great Britain, for the mercantile service, must tend to materially lessen the value of wood for ship-building. TELEGRAPH. 11^ TELEGRAPH. Califcmla is well supplied with telegraphs. There are over three hundred stations in the State, and com- munication can be had not only with every point of importance in California but also in Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Washington Territory, and British Columbia; and by the lines at San Francisco, connecting with those across the continent and the Atlantic submarine cable, the Pacific coast is in direct communication with all parts of the American republic and Canada, and also with Europe and Asia. Notice of events transpiring in St Petersburg, London, and Paris are transmitted to San Francisco and the remotest parts of the Pacific coast, and the people of San Francisco are often treated to events transpiring in Asia, Europe, and the Atlantic side of America before the hour at which they actually take place : this is owing to the geographical position of the country, San Francisco being so far west. To illustrate : the sun rises at London, England, eight hours before it is seen at San Francisco ; so that, if an event transpires in England at four o'clock P. M., it is heard of in San Francisco about nine o'clock A. M., or about the hour merchants and others are entering their offices in the morning, or seven hours by San Francisco time before the event has happened ; and the events of Lon- don transpiring at noon may be known in San Fran- cisco about six o'clock on the morning before, and the events of five o'clock P. M. in London may be read in the morning papers in San Francisco at breakfast table, six or seven hours before the hour of the day in which they have transpired. The difference in time between Boston, Mass., and 372 THE GOLDEN STATE. San Francisco, is about three hours, so that events transpiring at Boston, New York, or any of the Atlantic pities, at noon, daily, are known at San Francisco be- tween nine and ten o'clock in the forenoon of the same day. During t}ie late civil war in the country, the citizens of San Francisco would read at their breakfast tables, at nine o'clock A. M., of terrible battles having been fought in some part of the South at twelve o'clock, noon, or three hours before they had taken place, accord- ing to the time in California. To further illustrate this subject will be found a time- table, showing the time of day at various places on the globe when it is twelve o'clock, noon, at San Francisco: A. M. Astoria, Oregon Calcutta, India. Canton, China Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, Melbourne, Australia Pekin, China. Sydney, Australia Singapore, East Indies.. Shanghai, China Tobolsk, Siberia Yeddo, Japan Yrcka, Cal r. M. Acapulco, Mexico Archangel, Russia Aspinwall, Isthmus Berlin, Prussia Boston, Mass Cape of Good Hope Charleston, S. C Chicago, 111 Cincinnati, O Constantinople Detroit, Mich Eastport, Maine K. M. B. 11 55 12 I 35 56 3 43 00 9 39 8 5 48 00 3 56 00 6 14 00 3 8 00 4 12 40 12 43 00 5 30 CO II 59 30 1 26 28 10 50 00 a so 40 3 35 25 48 9 3a 50 2 50 40 19 44 3* 16 9 44 2 38 12 3 42 00 9 3 2 2 10 p. K. M. K. S. Fort Yuma, Cal 12 31 18 Frankfort, Germany 8 43 24 Galveston, Texas i 50 32 Geneva, Switzerland 8 34 42 Gibraltar, Spain 7 48 44 Halifax, Nova Scotia 3 55 36 Havana, Cuba 2 41 00 Jerusalem, Palestine 10 31 24 Lima, Peru 3 < 3^ London, England 8 9 31 Los Angeles, Cal 12 16 30 Louisville, Ky 2 27 4 Mexico, Mexico i 33 44 Mecca, Arabia 10 50 00 Montreal, Canada 3 15 44 New Orleans, La 2 9 40 New York city 3 14 00 Nevada,Cal 12 5 15 Oregon City, Oregon 12 o 40 Panama, Isthmus 2 52 40 Paris, P'rance 8 19 24 Philadelphia, Pa 3 9 22 Placerville, Cal 12 6 18 Portland, Me 3 39 8 Rio Janeiro, Brazil 5 '7 8 POSTAGE AND POST-OFFICES. 373 p. M. H. M. a. Rome, Italy 903 Sacramento, Cal. 12 3 58 Santa Fe, New Mexico 12 55 44 Salt Lake City 12 41 40 St. Louis, Mo 294 r- H. H. M. 8. St. Petersburg 10 11 20 Stockholm, Sweden 9 23 20 Toronto, Canada 2 52 00 Vienna, Austria 9 15 35 Washington, D. C 3 2 00 :. s. I 18 .3 24 |o 32 4 42 r8 44 5 36 |.i 00 }i 24 I 36 9 3» 16 30 27 4 33 44 50 00 15 44 9 40 14 00 5 '5 o 40 52 40 19 24 9 22 6 18 29 8 17 8 POSTAGE AND POST-OFFICES. Previous to the acquisition of California, there was not a post-office in the territory. The official docu- ments to and from Mexico, as well as the correspond- ence of the missionaries, were taken Uy special car- riers; and as there were no newspapers published or circulated in the country, there was but little need of postal facilities. The few foreigners in the country would send or receive an occasional letter by some trader or whale-ship touching on the coast. So soon as the United States asserted authority over the territory, the newspaper press commenced opera- tions, and post-offices were established in the country; but at this early day, and for many years subsequent, all mail matter to the Pacific coast had to cross the Isthmus of Panama, thence by steamer to San Fran- cisco; from twenty-four to thirty days being occupied in the voyage from New York to San Francisco. It gen- erally required from sixty to ninety days from the date of writing a letter to the receipt of an answer by the Isthmus route. Postage on the half- ounce in those days was ten cents, when the distance was over three hundred miles. The arrival of the semi-monthly steamer at San Francisco was an event celebrated by the firing of guns and the ringing of bells, and the signal for a general rush of the inhabitants to the post- office, where long lines of anxious letter-seekers would take their position, "first come, first served" being the *■■ 374 THE GOLDEN STATE. rule; and woe betide the unfortunate wretch whose temerity caused him to attempt to break the restless, anxious> swaying. line of the gray-shirt brigade swinging in long lines from the post-office windows,. As these lengthening columns swayed and wriggled, sometimes a-half mile in length, great anxiety and im- . patience were often manifested by persons wishing to get to the all-important window of the post-office; rugged miners, who had not perhaps for a year heard a word from Home, and anxious merchants, whose fate depended upon their letters and invoices, seeing no hope of approaching the office for hours, would offer sums to buy out some fortunate one "in the line;" from five to twenty dollars were average prices, but fifty and one hundred dollars were often paid for a good position nigh the window. Prices would be in proportion to the length of the line, or the anxiety of individuals. The expression of countenance of some of those paying highest rates, when forced to leave the window without a letter, is beyond description. "Selling out" in the line soon became a trade, and many an impecunious individual pocketed his ten or twenty dollars three or four times during tlie day by selling out and hitching on to the line again. Cases, too, have not been unfrequent where over- anxious individuals, in search of letters, would take their position at the post-office window one or two days before the arrival of the expected steamer, often passing the entire night standing watching the window, and only leaving it when forced to seek food and drink. It often befell these faithful sentinels that, during the brief ab- sence from their post, the steamer's gun would fire, and, after a break-neck race of a few minutes, they would be POSTAGE AND POST-OFFICES. 375 forced to attach themselves to the extreme end of a line from a quarter to half a mile in length. Great relief was experienced some years since by the establishment of the "Pony Express," which carried letters from the Missouri river to San Francisco in twelve to fifteen days, at twenty-five cents the half ounce. This express continued to carry letters be- tween the roads building from the East to the West until the completion of the road in 1869; when the rider of the fieet pony dismounted, handed his mail- bags to the rider of the tireless iron-horse, who rides over the posting winds and gallops over the storms of the Sierras. Mails are now received at San Francisco each day, in seven days, from New York, Boston, and Philadel- phia. There are four hundred and fifty post-offices now in California. UNITED STATES BRANCH MINT. In 1854, a United States Branch Mint was established at San Francisco. Previous to this period, much incon- venience was experienced throughout the State for want of a circulating medium. Gold-dust, at sixteen dollars per ounce, was generally received and paid in all matters of business. Individuals had resort to making coins of pure gold, which passed current in the country : of this class were the fifty dollar pieces called "slugs,", octagon in form and made of pure gold, but now entirely out of use. A magnificent granite and free stone building for a new mint, to cost two million dollars when completed, is nigh finished. The mint at San Francisco has been kept constantly i1^ THE GOLDEN STATE. employed since its establishment in 1854, and has issued an aggregate of $306,074,663.98 in gold and silver coin from its opening until the ist of January, 1872. Of the total mint coinage, $298,245,706.81 was gold and $7,828,957.17 was silver. The coinage of gold and silver for the year 1870 was $20,355,000; and for 1871 it was $20,041,775, of which $18,905,000 was gold and $1,136,775 was silver. Until within a few years past, twenty-five cents was the smallest coin in circulation in any part of the Pacific coast. More recendy, ten cent pieces have gone into use ; and still more recently, five cent pieces, although the latter are scarce, and it may be said that, throughout California and the whole Pacific coast, ten cents is the smallest coin in general circulation. Paper money has never been used to any extent in California, and the Constitution of the State prohibits the making, issuing, or putting in circulation any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or the paper of any bank, or the issuing of paper in any form, as money; hence all the banking and business of the country is done in gold and silver coin, the latter being at a great discount and declined if offered in large quantities. The securities and paper money of the federal gov- ernment, "greenbacks," bonds, &c., are used in many instances in business, and are bought and sold as other securities. Beside the gold and silver of California, considerable amounts of bullion reach the mint at San Francisco annually from all the States and Territories west of the Rocky mountains— Arizona, Colorado, Nevada, Utah, Oregon, Idaho, Washington Territory, and British Columbia. COMMERCE AND NAVIGATION. 377 The increasing demand for minting facilities on the Pacific coast has induced the federal government, within a few years, to establish a branch mint, in 1864, at Denver, Colorado; one at Carson City, Nevada, in 1869; and one now (1872) in course of erection at Dalles, on the Columbia river, Oregon. NAVY YARD. At Mare island, twenty-eight miles from San Fran- cisco by steamer, and in the direction of Sacramento from San Francisco, the federal government has estab- lished the most extensive navy yard in the republic. Thirty acres of land, on Mare island, with an extensive water-front, is owned by the United States : upon this are erected large and substantial brick buildings, for all the purposes of the yard. There is an excellent dry- dock at these works, where all the repairing of the Pacific squadron is done. The works and grounds here have been projected upon a scale adequate to the growing interests of the Pacific side of the republic. COMMERCE. In preceding chapters will be found statements of the commercial transactions of California under Spanish, Mexican, and early American rule. The internal im- provements constandy going on in the State, in build- ing railroads, factories, and the varied local industries, together with the establishment of steam communi- cation to all parts of the Pacific coast, the Pacific islands, Asia, and Australia, are fast giving California a promi- nent commercial position. ' In the early history of the State, when gold was the only export, and every article of food and consumption 378 TH£ GOLDEN STAT&. had to be imported, and all the gold was sent out of the country, exports presented very formidable figures. California, in 1853, yielded sixty-five million dollars in gold, and exported fifty-seven million dollars; only two million dollars of which were merchandise. California now yields annually but about twenty-five million dollars in gold. There were over thirty-two million dollars in gold shipped from San Francisco in 1870; but a great portion of this found its way from the adjoining Pacific States and Territories to California, which latter State cannot be credited with more than sixteen million dol- lars export of gold of her own production, although her product was twenty-five million dollars. The following table exhibits the annual exports of merchandise and treasure, from the port of San Fran- cisco, from 1848 to and including the year 1871 : 1848-56, J851, . 1852, , 1853. . 1854, i855» ■ 1856, 1857, 1858, i859> i860, x86i, 1862, 1863, 1864, 1865, 1866, 1867, 1868, macMANDin. 1^2,000,000 1,030,000 1,500,000 2,000,000 2,500,000 4,189,611 4,270,516 4,369*758 4,770,163 5,533,41 1 8,532,439 9,888,072 10,565,294 13,877,399 13,271,752 14,554,130 17,281,848 22,421,298 22,844,235 TRKASUM. 166,000,000 45.989,000 45,779>ooo 54,965,000 52,045,633 45,161,731 50,697.434 48,976,692 47,548,026 47,640,462 42,325,916 40,676,758 42,561,761 46,071,920 So,7o7;2oi 44,426,172 44,365,668 40,671,797 36,358,096 TOTAL. 1^68,000,000 46,989,000 47,279,000 56,965,000 54,545,633 49,351,342 54.967,950 53,346,450 52,318,189 53,173,87s 50,858,35s 50,564,830 53,127,05s 59,949,319 68,978,953 58,980,302 61,647,516 63,093,095 59,202,331 TRADE AND COMMERCE, 379 1869, . 1870, . 1871, . imtaiAMBiaB. 80,846,349 171769*743 i3»99a»a83 37,287,114 33.983. 139 i7.353.346 58,133.463 50,752,881 31,245,629 Totals, $307,978,300 $985,491,866 $1,193,470,166 The exports overland, since 1870, not being included here, makes the amounts appear small. It will be seen by the foregoing how steadily the export of gold has decreased, and how steadily the export of merchandise has iftcreased. It may still seem strange to the reader that the aggregate exports of California have decreased since 1853. In that yean the aggregate export of the State was $56,965,000, against ^^50, 7 5 2,881 in 1870— a decrease of $6,212,191 per annum in sixteen years; but it must be remembered that the gold product of the State is forty million dollars less per annum now than it was sixteen years ago ; and that the mechanical and agricultural industries of the country have to make up this deficit. Besides, the growth in and development of wealth represented in farms, orchards, vineyards, cities, schools, and the aggregate of real and personal property in the State had no existence in 1853, as compared with the present wealth of the State already alluded to. Nor is the v/ealth of California, as it is to-day, so easily pro- duced as in tlie times when the gold-fieldsyielded their first and richest harvest The exports of the early period when almost every thing produced in the State was shipped out of it, and when there were no local industries in the country, if compared with the exports of the present time, will not convey a correct idea of the wealth or prosperity of California. If the agricultural and meciianical productions of California be compared with the yield of gold in the mmmmmmm 380 TI/£ GOLDEN STATE. palmiesic days of the State, it will be found that these branches c»f industry are fast gaining on the richest yields of the State, and completely eclipsing the gold product of to-day. The agricultural productions of California are esti- mated at thirty million dollars for the. year 1872, and the value of manufactured articles in the State for the same period at thirty-one million dollars, making an aggregate of sixty-one million dollars per annum — a larger sum than has been produced from the mines of California in any one year since the discovery of gold, except the year 1853, and thirty-six million dollars greater than the gold product of the State at the present period. Adding the agricultural, mechanical, and go! ^ products of 1872, we have an aggregate of eighty-one million dollars, or twenty-one million dollars more than the annual yield of gold in any year since 1848. If we add to these productions the real estate and personal property of California, valued at three hundred million dollars, some idea of the increasing wealth of the State may be had. The tonnage entry of the port of San Francisco, for the year 1871, was 3,519 vessels of all classes, including the coasting fleets, and aggregating one million tons. Of the one iiundred million pounds of tea finding its way from China and Japan into the United States aii- mially, twenty-two million pounds enter the port ot San Francisco, and is transported East by rail. The completion of the Pacific and Atlantic railroad in 1869 has wrought great changes in the commercial affairs o^ California, in placing the merchants of the State in constant and speedy communication with the great manufacturing centres of the Atlantic States and TRADE AND COMMERCE. 381 Europe; relieving importers, to a degree, of the tedious and uncertain voyages by the Isthmus of Panama and Cape Horn, and placing the public beyond the reach of the monopolist, whose fortune depends upon the dangers of the seas and the winds that baffle the mariner. Another change wrought in the commercial affairs of the State is diversion of trade from San Francisco. Previous to the completion of the railroad, San Fran- cisco was the only outlet in the State. Every person leaving the coast, either for Europe or the Atlantic States, was obliged to come first to San Francisco; so all the merchandise, intended for the State, had also to enter San Francisco. Now persons in the interior take the cars at their homes along the road; so the interior merchants, from the Bay of San Francisco to Utah, order their goods overland, having them dropped at the stations along the road, much to the detriment of San Francisco, which, owing to the causes here men- tioned, has great cause, at least for the present, to re- gret the completion of a road, which, while it redounds vastly to the benefit of the State, has temporarily pros- trated the business of the merchants of San Francisco. Among the articles of export of the State, in 1871, were seven hundred and fifty thousand gallons of wine and eighty thousand gallons of brandy, a great portion of which went East to all parts of the Atlantic States by rail. I 382 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XXVI. Education — ^Free schools — Schools in San Francisco— Cost of School Department — Chinese schools — ^Indian slaves — National education — Agricultural colleges — State university — ^Agricultural societies — Reform, deaf, dumb, and blind schools— Newspapers — Books — Libraries — ^I^iterature — Protective and benevolent societies^— Re- ligion — Prisons and crimes — -Asylums — Governors of California- Laws — Lawyers — Doctors — Divines. The American pioneers of California, althc ir't far from the seat of civilization, had not forgotten the early precepts of their ancestors, that the foundations of American freedom were laid upon the universal intelli- gence of the people; so that, in the moulding of the new State from the crude fragments of a Spanish semi- civilization into well-ordered and active progress, and building up the pillars of the new nation on the Pacific, the spirit and genius of ripest progress are visible, and most effectually woven into the fabric of the organic law of the State. The free school system, established by law in 185 1, has extended to every county, village, and town in Cali- fornia; and the neat school-house in the remote interior, on every hillside and valley, with efficient teachers, trained in the Normal school of the State, affords ample fariliti(:s to every child, regardless of race, color, or Itirthplace, to obtaip a free education. In all the de- partments of public education, California is second to no State In the tJnJOfi At the heads of the educa- tional departments, geMf*rally, af found men of char- acter and cultun-. hiuI ll/t; 1 I / -. as a class, are equally competent as \\\ti (♦' Mhers in any of the At- JV4 ^^f LINCOLN SCHOOL HOUSE, SAN JTvANCISCO, 1 873. (A. ^immodation, 1150 Boy*. Ccjtt $100,000.) MRbT S( llfKil HOCSK IN SAN fRANCISCO (On Portsmouth Square, 1847.) I , la la ai ci bi w w d sc Sf be ci; th F] an CO fai pr Pr cai th( th( flo SCHOOLS AND SCHOOL BUILDINGS. 383 lantic States; and the school buildings generally are large, elegant, and comfortable, and, in San Francisco, are not surpassed in capacity and appointments in any city in the Union. In the public institutions of the State not only are the ordinary branches of an English education taught, but in the cities cosmopolitan schools are maintained, where foreign languages form a part of the instruction. Besides the other educational institutions maintained by the State is a university, established at Oakland, where a full college course is afforded free to all who choose to enter. There is also a 'aw and medical school attached to this institution. A State Normal school, with all the modern improvements, and of most spacious and elegant dimensions, recendy built at the beautiful city of San Jose, fifty miles south of San Fran- cisco, educates and grradiiates, as professional teachers, those of both sexes who enroll themselves for that profession. There is also a reform school at San Francisco; and an educational institution for deaf, dumb, and blind (the only one west of the Rocky mountains) a short distance from Oakland. San Francisco, tlie great metropolis of the I^cific coast with its 149,473 inhabitants, (1870,) has >'come famous far its public school institutions ; and at the present period presents a striking illustration of the progressive jrenius of the cosmopolitan population of that youthful but expanding cxXy. Prior to the occupation of California by the Ameri- cans, not a school existed in the whole country, except those maintained by the Jesuits for the conversion of the Indians; but no sooner Iiad the stars and stripes floated over the land than inscitutions of free educaaon 384* THE GOLDEN STATE. and free worship clustered around the dwellings of the pioneer. The first American school established in San Fran- cisco was a private one, opened in April, 1847, ^Y Mr. Marsten, who is entiried to the honor of being the first "Yankee school-master" on the Pacific coast. The school was opened in a little shanty, to twenty or thirty pupils. In the fall of 1847, ^^ citizens of San Fran- cisco organized a public school and erected a small one-story school-house. This humble building subsequentiy served for a church for the first preaching of the Protestant religion in California, the first theatre, court-house, station- house, &c. On the 3d of April, 1848, the Rev. Thomas Douglas opened a private school ; organized, however, as a pub- lic school. The summer of 1848 found Douglas' school closed, and all the pupils large enough to travel, parents, and teacher on the march to the gold-fields of the rivers and gulches of the foot-hills of the Sierras. On the 23d of April, 1849, the Rev. Albert Williams opened a select school, which he taught for a few months only ; and, in October following, Mr. and Mrs. J. C. Pelton opened a private school, which, in April, 1850, was made a public school, and Mr. Pelton and his wife were employed by the common council of the city, at a monthly salary of five hundred dollars. From this period forward to the present time, San Francisco has gone steadily onward in her public schools, until her beautiful school edifices adorn every hill-side and look out upon the placid waters of the Pacific Ox.ean from every quarter. On the 30th of June, 1870, there were 45,617 chil- SCHOOLS AND SCHOOL BUILDINGS. 385 :hil- dren ;n San Francisco under fifteen years of age; of whom 27,055 were between the ages of five and fifteen years. To accommodate these there .were fifty-eight public schools; three hundred and sixty-nine teachers — three hundred snd twelve females and fifty-four males. The amount expended in the city for public school pur- poses during the year ending June 30, 1870, was $522,5cx> in gold; and the total expenditure for this purpose in the city for the eighteen years of the exist- ence of free schools in San Francisco, to the beginning of 1 87 1, \i2i%four and a-quaritr million dollars. Many of the school buildings in San Francisco sur- pass in elegance and capaciousness the schools of any Atlantic city. There are seven hundred and twenty pupils taught in a school building on Silver street, the Rincon school (girls' grammar) has six hundred young lady pupils ; Lincoln school, named after Abraham Lin- coln, is exclusively a boys' school, and numbers 1,150 pupils ; the Denman school (girls' grammar) has seven hundred young ladies ; and other schooJ buiJdiugs of great capacity are in contemplation and are being con- stantly erected. Colored or negro children have a separate school, at which one hundred and forty-five children are taught. San Francisco maintains one school for the Chinese: this is the only free school maintained on the continent for the education of this race. The number of Mongolian children in the city under fifteen years of age in (1870) 1,148, and the number of persons attending the Chinese school (many of whom are grown men) is two hundred and two. A library of 8,510 volumes, and valued at J5 1 0,469 — the property of the public schools of San 25 3S6 THE GOLDEN STATE. Francisco — is in the rooms of the Board of Education of the city. To convey a further idea of the extent to which public instruction is carried on in San Francisco, and the vast sums so willingly spent in the cause of education, a comparison between the value of public school property in the progressive city of Chicago and San Francisco may serve to illustr^ite. At the end of 1 870, the popula- tion of Chicago was 299,370, and that of San Francisco, ^ 49473' At this period the total valuation of the public school property of Chicago was $1,873,375 J while San Francisco, with a population of only about half that of the former city, possessed in its public school depart- ment property to the value of 1(^1,729,800— double as much' in proportion to its population as the school prop- erty of Chicago. The report of the State Superintendent of Public Instruction to 1870 shows that there were 1,144 school districts in the State, with 1,268 schools, in which there were employed 1,687 teachers— 970 males and 730 females. The number of pupils enrolled was 73,744, and the average attendance of pupils, 56,715. The whole number of children in the State at that period, between five and fifteen years of age, was 112,743, of whom 57,374 were boys and 55,369 were girls. Of this number 1 10,642 were white— 56,264 boys and 54,378 girls; and 838 negroes — 432 boys and 406 girls. There were also of this number 1,263 Indian children — 678 boys and 585 girls — living under the guardianship of white persons. There were also at this period 57,983 children in the State under five years of age — 57,410 whites, 278 negro, and 295 domestic EDUCATION AND SCHOOLS, 387 Indians; making a total of 1 70,726 children of all classes under fifteen years of age in the State in 1870. Of the 112,743 children between the ages of five and fifteen years but 67,834 had attended the public schools at any time during the year; of whom 67,307 were whites, 406 colored, and 121 Indians. There were at the same time attending private schools 16,273 children between five and fifteen years of age — 16,159 whites, sixty-nine colored, and forty-five Indians — making a total of 84,107 children of all classes between five and fifteen years of age attendant at school, and leaving 28,636 of these ages who never- enter a school. It will be seen that of the 838 colored children in the State but 475, or a little over one-half, were attending school; while of the 1,263 Indian children between the ages of five and fifteen years, said to be under the guardianship of whites, but 1 66 ever entered a school, leaving 1,097 without instruction. The fact is, that the greater part of these Indian children were bought from some of the tribes in the State and throughout portions of Oregon and Washington Territory, or kidnapped by some of the traders on the coast; and are held as slaves, without knowledge of parents, relatives, or kin. The number of Mongolian (Chinese) children in the State at this time, under fifteen years of age, was 1,470. There were seventy-nine deaf and dumb children be- tween the ages of five and twenty-one years, and thir- teen blind of the same age. The total valuation of 'he school property of the State was ^^2,796,705. 12, and the State expenditure foi* the school year of 1869 amounted to $1,290,585.52 in gold. Sunday-schools, under the direction of zealous and competent teachers, are maintained throughout the 388 TIfE GOLDEN STATE. whole Pacific coast; there being over two hundred Sunday-schools, with more than twenty-five thousand scholars, and four thousand officers and teachers, in California. There are in the State ten Sunday-schools for Chinese, having 363 teachers and 1,640 scholars, and an average attendance of 552. Most of these Chinese schools are in San Francisco, and are maintained by the different church organizations. The efforts of the teach* ers are chiefly directed toward teaching the English lan- guage. All the scholars in these schools are exclusively males, and many of them men of middle age. No female child or Chinese woman enters any school in C^ifornia; and ho Chinese women, with but few excep- tions, engage in ^ny occupation or employment save the plying of their vile and nameless profession. NATIONAL EDUCATION — THE ESTABLISHMENT OF AGRICUL. TURAL COLLEGES IN THE UNITED STATES. In the year 1862, Congress passed an act entided *'An act donating public lands to the several States and Territories which may provide colleges .for the benefit of agriculture and the mechanic arts," which was approved, July 2, 1862, by President Lincoln; and which granted to each State, for such purpose, thirty thousand acres of land for each Senator and Repre- sentative in Congress, according to the apportionment under the census of i860, amounting in die aggregate to 9,510,500 acres. Besides these donations, Congress has, by donating the sixteenth and thirty-second sections in the States for school purposes, granted 69,066,808 acres direcdy, and for internal improvement (generally given to the educational fund) granted an additional 13.669,671 acres: thus making a total of 92,246,979 AGRICULTURAL COLLEGES. 389 acres (up to 1871) of the public domain donated to the cause of education in the Union. The act provides that all moneys realized by the sale of these lands (agricultural college) shall be invested in stocks of the United States, or of the States, and that only the in- terest thereof shall be expended for the purposes named. The Legislature of each State which accepts this bequest must establish one college of agriculture and the mechanic arts, erect suitable buildings, choose a faculty of professors, and prescribe such a course of study as will have a tendency "to promote the liberal education of the industrial classes in the several pur- suits ^nd professions of life," by making the leading feature and objects of such instruction to be "to teach such branches of learning as are Velated to agriculture and the mechanic arts," including "military tactics," and not excluding "other scientific and classical studies." The design of Congress appears to have been to estab- lish a national American system of education for the benefit of the whole people. The Legislatures of twenty-three States have re- sponded to this magnificent donation of Congress, and have either established or commenced agricultural col- leges. The following States have organized indepen- dent institutions : Michigan, Pennsylvania, Iowa, Illinois, Massachusetts, and Maine. The following States have iricorporated their agricultural colleges with other semi- naries or universities: Connecticut, Kentucky, New York, New Jersey, Vermont, Kansas, Maryland, Cali- fornia, Delaware, Minnesota, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Vermont, West Virginia, and Wisconsin. The States of Ohio and Indiana have accepted the donation ; but, as yet, have only commenced. The first six States IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) .» 1.0 I.I 1.25 28 if 1^ 1.4 IIIM IIIIIM m 1.6 6" *» a" Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSBO (716) 872-4503 fA 390 THE GOLDEN STATE. have farnts of from four hundred to one thousand acres attached to their agricultural colleges. On the 23d of Mafch, 1868, an act of the Legislature of California Organized a State university, and accepted the munificent donation of one hundred and fifty thou- sand acres of land granted by the National Congress for the establishing and maintaining of a college of agriculture and the mechanic arts, &c. The university was opened on the 23d of September, 1868, and about fifty students had entered up to the beginning of 1870. This institution has its location at Berkeley, about four miles nortli of Oakland, in Alameda county, and directly facing the Golden Gate. The buildings are constructed upon the' most improved modern principle, and are located in a park of two hundred acres, beau- tifully situated and ornamented with shade and other trees. In point of equipment the University of California is superior to any in the Union, as its -apparatus was selected from the most apiproved modern styles in England, France, Germany, and America, and many valuable appliances of modern invention introduced which will materially aid in developing and illustrating branches of science heretofore not supposed to be sus- ceptible of illustration by artificial means. * Law, medical, and agricultural depar^^ments are con- nected with the university; and these, with all the^ departments of the institution, are open to both sexes alike who can pass the necessary examination in scholar- ship and character. The practical workings and beneficial effects of the study of the science of agriculture, as comprehended in an dom AGRICULTURAL COLLEGES. 391 the act of Congress establishing and fostering agricul- tural colleges, cannot be doubted, when we reflect that in no branch of industry is there such widespread igno- rance as in the noble pursuit of agriculture — no branch of industry wherein thrift, education, and systematized labor combined with the application of science so readily reward the laborer; and California, whose generous soil and genial climate place her in the front rank of the most favored sections of the globe, would seem the most fitting place to bring to unequalled perfection the productions of the soil and the science and- practice of agriculture. It is tnily encouraging to see at last r>o deep an interest manifested in this sadly neglectf.d and noble industry as exhibits itself in the generous aid afforded it by the national and State governments. Many of the States in the Union have taken steps to instruct their young men in the science and practice of agriculture, many of them having State agricultural colleges, with farms attached. The earliest effort to establish an agricultural school was made in 1775, by the Abbe Rosier, who proposed to the French minister, Turgot, to place at his disposal the park of Chambord. But to the enthusiastic efforts of Emanuel Fellenberg, who, in 1 799, established upon his estate of Hofwyl near Berne, in Switzerland, an agri- cultural school, is the world indebted for its advanced state of agricultural information founded upon combined science and labor. In the year 1 799, th" Prince Schwarzenberg founded an agricultural school at Krumau, in Bohemia, on a domain of three hundred thousand acres, which is still in successful operation. The collections at this famous 392 THE GOLDEN STATE. school comprise models of agricultural implements, philosophical and chemical apparatus, insects, fruits, the cultivated plants of the country, minerals, and a herbarium. Beside these, there are a botanical garden, conservatory, and an astronomical observatory'. The instruction is gratuitous. In many parts of Europe there are agricultural schools in which instructions are given in botany, zoology, mineralogy, geology, mathematics, chemistry, physics, mechanics, agriculture, sylviculture, and the working of mines ; and. wherein the students are brought into actual contact with every department of practical labor con- nected with farm -work. They plough, harrow, dig, cultivate, plant, sow, hoe, thresh, gi'aft, prune, take care of teams and stock generally, lay out and superintend work, erect farm-buildings, keep accounts, and perform every duty of a practical farmer. Students occupy a term of from three to five years, and after a rigid ex- amination are, if qualified, graduated. It is in such institutions as these, in our own country, that the parents of California should place their sons, instead of crowding them into law, medical, and theo- logical schools, offices and stores, or permitting them to join the great and ever increasing army of shiftless idlers growing up in the land, who seek a precarious subsistence by clinging to the skirts of some over- crowded profession,- ve. id small wares, or live in absolute idleness and vice, while millions of acres of generous soil only await the touch of industry to bounteously reward its possessor. Scientific agriculture is but in its infancy in the United States. In portions of New England and the Middle States, where population begins to cut up the land into some provec ■^ I SCIENTIFIC AGRICULTURE. 393 small farms, and the proximity of markets renders the productions of the soil of great value, considerable atten- tion is being paid to manuring the land and rotation of crops ; but throughput the West, and particularly wesl of the Rocky mountains,.as a rule, the greatest igno- rance and recklessness in the cultivation of the soil exists, many farmers entirely ignoring the idea that any thing will grow upon their farms except wheat, others grow only barley, and others again only corn or pota- toes. The wheat farmer buys the barley and oats upon which he feeds his horses and the vegetables upon his table ; while the barley farmer buys his flour and vege- tables. The stock- raiser, who counts his horned cattle by the thousands, buys his butter, cheese, and bacon; while the hog farmer buys every thing, even bacon dnd lard, and, strange as it may seem, hundreds of men throughout the West drive their hogs to market, sell them on the foot at three and four cents per pound, and carry home ham at twenty to thirty cents a pound. Year after year the land is sown in the same seed, without manure or a season's rest, until finally the soil exhibits signs of exhaustion, and eventually refuses to produce at all, much to the surprise of the "farmer," who must seek "better land." Within some years past, agricultural societies formed in most of the States have aided much in disseminat- ing practical facts to farmers. But systematized and scientific agricultural education has been slow in its progress. The scientific schools attached to Yale, Harvard, and Dartmouth colleges each provide for instruction in some of the branches of agricultural science, and have proved of great advantage to those availing themselves 394 THE GOLDEN STATE. of their benefits ; but the want of experimental farms has been much felt at these institutions. As early as 1837, the subject of establishing agricul- tural schools was agitated in the States of Pennsylvania and New York; but, up to 1853, no practical form had been given to the subject. In this year, the State of Pennsylvania projected her present flourishing agricul- tural college. The State of Michigan, in 1855, estab- lished an agricultural college, apprqpriated fifty thou- sand dollars, and purchased a tract of seven thousand acres of land for this purpose. In 1857, a further sum of forty thousand dollars was appropriated by the Legislature, and in May, 1857, the first-class was ad- mitted. Throughout the United States Agricultural societies and colleges are fast increasing, and their beneficial effects extending to every State and Territory in the Union. In 1862, the National Congress established a distinct department of agriculture, with a commissioner at its head, for the distribution of seeds, roots, &c., and general information free to the people. West of the Rocky mountains, besides the stimulus given to agriculture by the appropriations of Congress already alluded to, the States and most of the counties have agricultural societies. In 1862, the State of Oregon, by its Legislature, incorporated an agricultural college at Eugene City; and the State agricultural society of that State, which has a meeting annually at Salem, exerts much influence upon the agricultural interests of the State and the prosperity of the people. On the 14th of June, 1870, "The Columbia District Agricultural Society" was organized at Dalles City, accor who Octol admitt thirty- twenty EDUCATION AND REFORM. 395 Oregon. This society will embrace all of Oregon and Washington Territory lying east of the Cascade moun- tains. Industrial School. — A school for the reformation of juvenile offenders of both sexes is established at San Francisco. During the year 1868, the inmates of the State Reform school, at Marysville, were trans- ferred to this institution, and the State Reform school abandoned. Unfortunate children, without the whole- some control and guardianship of parents, and those abandoned to their own resources, or who inherit the low cunning, crime, and viciousness of wretched pa- rents, swell the ranks of idle, unwashed urchins, who, in the genial climate of San Francisco, congregate under and about the wharves and city front, subsisting upon stray scraps and the fruits of pilfering, and afford abundant material for this institution and for the State prison. Deaf, Dumb, and Blind. — ^The State has recently erected in Alameda county, about four miles north of the city of Oakland, at a cost of one hundred and fifty- eight thousand dollars, an institution for the care and education of the deaf, dumb, and blind. It is the only establishment of this character on the Pacific coast, is built upon the most improved plan, and has capacity to accommodate all those persons upon the Pacific coast who may find it necessary to enter it. From the i st of October, 1867, to 1870, but ninety-six persons were admitted to this institution — sixty deaf and dumb and thirty-six blind. Persons between the ages of six and twenty-five years are entitled to admission. 396 THE GOLDEN STATE. NEWSPAPERS, BOOKS, LIBRARIES, AND LITERATURE. There is not a State in the Union nor a country in the world whose people, as a class, is so well educated, enlightened, and progressive as the people of California. The first settlers of the State were generally engaged in active life in their fearly homes; persons of energy, ambition, and generally better educated than the mass of their countrymen. Misfortune in business, and a restless and uncontrollable desire to gain riches, to- gether with the spirit of adventure, drew to the Pacific coast the mass of its population. Many of the early comers were compelled to make long and expensive voyages by sea, and tedious journeys by land, often through foreign countries and amidst scenes and cir- cumstances which, of themselves, formed a most iiiter- esting and salutary chapter in the history of their lives. On their arrival in California, new and strange fields of industry were opened up to them. Men of culture and letters were found in the employments allotted to me- nials in the older-settled parts of the world, and these men, located throughout the country in farming, stock- raising, lumbering, mining, and other industries, and engaged in the various trades and business of the cities, form the mass of liberal-minded, intelligent men who have broken down the barriers of superstition and staid conventionalities. of sectarianism, and established a social and mental activity commensurate with the age, and in happy contrast with the narrow prejudices and sectional strifes of many of the older-settled sections of the countr\*. Civilization, in its westwar^^ march, is no longer guided by the rude trapper and axeman, but pushed part Th humi classe the c San Germ half languj Th( EDUCATION AND BOOKS. 397 )ns ahead by the refining and enlightening influences of the school-house and printing-press, whose presence, and power are felt in every home throughout the wide expanse of the Pacific slope. As early as the year i860, when California was but ten years old, as a State, and her whole population but 379,994, her newspaper circulation, in proportion to her population, was the largest in the world, far surpassing any part of New England and Europe. At that period the annual circulation of newspapers in the United States was thirty to each person. The average in the fifteen slave States was but fourteen. In California the issue was sixty-nine to each person — more than double that of the average of the whole country, and five times as great as that of the slave States. Besides the issue of papers from the press of the State, as here indicated, a greater amount of reading matter from the Adantic 3tat6s and Europe — newspapers and magazines — is re- ceived in California, in proportion to the population, than is received in any other State in the Union from abroad. So, too, with letters: the letter mails of Cali- fornia are larger, in proportion to the population, than the mails of any other State in the Union or any other part of the world. There are published in the State of California one hundred and seventy newspapers and magazines of all classes, sixty-seven of this number being published in the city of San Francisco. The foreign residents in San Francisco publish and maintain newspapers in German, French, Spanish, and Italian; also, one one- half in Russian, and a monthly issue in the Chinese language for circulation in Asia. The newspaper press of the State, in many instances, 393 THE GOLDEN STATE. is conducted with much spirit and ability, and is most liberally patronized by the business community as an advertising medium. In California everybody reads newspapers. On the street-corners, hand-cartmcn, hackmen, and draymen seem to devour the contents of the daily papers; while the stage-driver and expressman throughout the valleys, gulches, and ravines, as he speeds his way, is ceaseless in flinging right and left wads of newspapers at the door of every farm-house, store, inn, cottage, cabin, and footpath which leads to the dwelling of some hermit, secluded in the jungle, ravine, or gulch, where he lives chasing the deer or hunting for gold. In the field of authorship and bookmaking, California has not been behind her sister States. More than one hundred different books have been written in the State; some of them ponderous octavos, and embracing his- tory, poetry, fiction, religion," education, agriculture, mining, politics, and a variety of miscellaneous subjects. This number does not include the statutes and State Supreme Court Reports. Throughout the State, and in all the cities and towns, there are a number of literary societies and libraries; but there is not a free library of any description in the State. There are sixty-three libraries in California, with over two thousand volumes each, of an aggregate of one hundred and seventy-five thousand. The State library at the capital, Sacramento, contains about thirty thousand volumes, chiefly law. It is not a circulating institution. The library of the Mercantile Library Association of San Francisco contains about twenty -eight thousand EDUCATION AND BOOKS. 399 volumes, which circulate among its members. Com- modious reading-rooms, well supplied with papers from all parts of the world, are attached for the convenience of its patrons. With books pertaining to the early history of Cali- fornia, the Pacific coast generally, and the islands of the Pacific ocean, the Odd Fellows' library of San Francisco is perhaps the best supplied of any in the United States. It contains about twenty thousand volumes. In the library of the Mechanics' Library Association of San Francisco there are about sixteen thousand volumes of well-selected books; and the public school department of San Francisco owns a library of eight thousand five hundred and ten volumes. There are about five thousand five huijdred volumes in the Young Men's Christian Association library at San Francisco; and the library of the San Francisco Verein contains four thousand two hundred volumes. The Society of California Pioneers have elegant reading-rooms, and a small library of some two thou- sand, five hundred volumes. Home for the Care of the Inebriate. — Besides the thousands of drunkards' homes, in saloons, out-houses, wharves, streets, and dwellings, where wives, sisters, and mothers are made the unwilling gfuardians of the drunkard, an institution called the Home of the Inebrit ate has been established in San Francisco, supported in part by contributions and aid from the State. In the two years ending January i, 1870, there had been ad- mitted five hundred and thirty-seven persons to this institution — four hundred and seventy-three males and 400 TNE GOLDEN STATE. sixty-four females. As in the State prison and insane asylum, foreigners preponderated. Of the total num- ber (five hundred and thirty-seven) but two hundred and thirty were Americans ; while three hundred and seven were of foreign birth — Ireland, as in the State prison and insane asylum, taking the lead : Ireland, one hundred and ninety-five j Germany, thirty-three; and Scotland, thirteen. BENEVOLENT AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Benevolence and charity are leading traits of char- acter of the whole people of California. Long voyages by sea and tedious journeys by land, restless nights, hard fare, privations, and poverty at some time in the lives of most have worked the sordidness out of their souls, and touched the generous fountains which never fail to yield their pure and copious flow of charity : not miserly, begrudging charity, but hearty, generous, lib- eral aid, that makes the heart of the giver glad and the spirits of the receiver light. In this land, where, from the earliest settlement of thte country, the mutual exchange of a pot of beans, a piece of bacon or venison, and .a night's lodging has been regarded a sacred duty, and where the sudden revulsions of life have taught men how fickle are riches, charity, either in its organized forms or individual char- acter, meets with most generous recognition from all classes in California. Throughout the State, in every town and village, there are organized societies for the dispensation of aid to the poor and afflicted. In San Francisco alone there are one hundred and fifty benevolent and eighty pro- tective societies. desp£ the M full sp sight. plied was d( in desl husban the girJ at the father v by his \ of grea lent soc 26 ORGANIZED CHARITY. 401 In California the objects of charity are not of the classes found in older settled countries — old people and children; for, although some of these classes are now to be found in destitution, men and vomen in the prime of life, destitute of every thing but p verty, are often compelled to seek temporary relief; jo that, from the year 1849 to the present day, men " ad women, out of empl(5yment and out of money and a home, may be seen ui tlie streets, stores, and offices of every town in I be State begging for alms. In many instances, when people are found to respond generously, their kindness is taken advantage of by those who make a profession of begging. A couple of well-authenticated cases which recently occurred in San Francisco will illustrate the extent to which professional begging is carried on in California. A man with a sorrowful face called upon the head officer of a benevolent society, stating that his child was dead and that he had no means of defiaying the expenses of the funeral. A charitable lady was despatched with him to the scene of mourning, when the fellow, after leading the lady several blocks, ran at full speed in an opposite direction and was soon out of sight. In another instance, a young girl in tears ap- plied at a benevolent institution, stating that her father was dead and her mother and little brothers and sisters in destitution, and without the means of burying the husband and father. An amiable lady was sent with the girl to learn the true state of the case. On arriving at the wretched abode of the family, sure enough the father was dead and lying in a rude coffin, surrounded by his weeping wife and children. The case was one of gre^t distress, and the good lady from the benevo- lent society emptied her purse into the lap of the tear- 26 402 THE GOLDEN STATE. ful wife and mother, and took her departure to procure further aid for the family and provide for the burial of the unfortunate man. After her departure from tlie house, and before she had gone many steps, she found that she had forgotten her handkerchief, which she had held to her weeping eyes in the house of the distressed family ; so she quickly retraced her steps and quietly entered, only to see the "cold corpse" sitting tip in his narrow coffin counting his coin. To those not familiar with the uncertainties, priva- tions, and trial? incident to a new country, it is difficult to understand why there should be poor, people in a land like California ; but the causes of temporary or even painfully protracted poverty are well understood by all Californians. San Francisco, containing one- fourth of the whole population of the State, and the main depot for all new-comers, although the seat of much wealth, luxury, refinement, and pleasure, is also the seat of great distress, vice, and poverty, which keeps the city hospital, almshouse, and numerous charitable institutions taxed to their utmost capacity. It is esti- mated that more than twenty thousand persons annu- ally receive public charity in the city ; one institution alone — the San Francisco Benevolent Society — having during the year ending December 31, 1870, aided 7,969 persons, at a cost of $22,488. Owing to the mild climate, the pains of pinching frost are not added to penury ; but poverty in any of its forms is bad enough. In San Francisco there are at least five thousand men and boys who roam about the city, picking up a living from the contents of milk-cans and bread stolen from the doors of dwellings, the dregs of beerkegs, and such pickings as they can obtain about the lunch tables of RELIGION. 403 saloons. Of this number, but few ever see fire or light, eat at a table, or sleep upon a bed ; but find shelter about the wharves, in hogsheads, coal-yards^ sheds, stables, lumber-yards, and even upon the sidewalks. ang RELIGION. Weighed in the scale of orthodoxy, the people of California as a class cannot be considered religious, although there are many large and influential religious organizations and devout Christians, and zealous relig- ionists who follow the Mosaic star or the philosophy of Buddha and Confucius. As in most parts of the West, materialism with widespread indifferentisrn seems to offer easy avenues and a welcome retreat from the trammels and anathemas of self-ordained rulers, and the hidebound dogmas and proscriptions of feeble-minded fanatics and bigots, who breathe only in the fetid and sulphurous atmosphere of ritualism and the torments of eternal fire. Swinging a pick, rolling a wheelbarrow, and washing dishes in the mines, with scanty meals of salt bacon and beans, washing a dirty shirt with blistered hands, and travelling long, dusty, and lonely roads with an empty stomach, liave been found most efficacious in working the superstition and other nonsense out of a large por- tion of the able-bodied men of California. The early teachings of the Jesuit and Franciscan fathers have had but little effect upon the heathen ; and at this period nearly every vestige of their former labors afi'^. of the native Indians of California, has disappeared. In California, as in most Spanish and Catholic coun- tries, all forms of religious worship except Catholicism were prohibited by law ; and, previous to the year 1848, 1 »i \ ^*i9>PinfiiR!PPPP' mmmfffmrnm 404 TIf£ GOLDEN STATE. no form of Christian religion save that taught by the Catholic missionaries had ever been preached in the land. In the summer of 1848, the Rev. T. Dwight Hunt, a Presbyterian missionary to the Sandwich islands, arrived at San Francisco, then a scattering village of two hundred rude adobe houses. He was elected "chaplain of the town;" and commenced preaching to a few persons in a small house occupied during the week by a school, taught by Thomas Douglas. Mr Hunt, who was the first Protestant minister in Califor- nia, continued preaching in San Francisco ; and was, on the 29th of July, (Sunday,) 1849, elected pastor of the "First Congregational church," which office he held until the first Sunday in January, 1855, when he resigned his position and left for the Atlantic States, where he is still (1872) engaged in his Christian minis- trations. At the installation of Mr. Hunt, as pastor of the First Congregational church, which took place on the 26th of June, 1850, were Revs. J. A. Benton, S. V. Blakeslee, S. H. Willey, and O. C. Wheeler. Although Rev. Mr. Hunt had commenced his min- istrations in 1848, no church organization had been effected until the third Sunday in April, 1849, when the Rev. S. Woodbridge, who arrived at San Francisco on the 28th of February, assisted by the Rev. Albert Wil- liams, organized and established, at Benicia, the first Protestant church organization in California. Rev. S. H. Willey, subsequently acting chaplain of the town of Monterey, with Rev. Mr. Woodbridge, arrived at San Francisco on board the first passenger vessel v;ith gold-seekers bound for California. The second Protestant church organization in Cali- fornia, and the first in San Francisco, was the First RELIGION. 405 Pl-esbyterian church, organized by the Rev. Albert Williams, on the 20th of May, 1849. Mr. Williams had arrived at San Francisco on the 31st of March, 1849, on board the steamer Oregon, the second pas- senger steamer which had arrived with gold-hunters. The Secofid Protestant church organization in San Francisco was the First Congregational church, pre- sided over by the Rev. T. D wight Hunt, already al- luded to. The people of California have been peculiarly favored in having in the ministry, from the earliest period of American possession to the present time, a large class of those whose example, influence, fidelity, virtue, and sterling labors for the promotion of their fellow-men have endeared their names in the memory of thousands, and who did eminent service to their adopted State, their country, and religion. OVnitting atheists, pantheists, Mormons, deists, spirit- ualists, free-lovers, the disciples of Buddha, and other "believers" and "unbelievers," the organized religious bodies of the State are represented as follows: The Roman Catholic Church numbers in California one archbishop, one bishop, one hundred and twenty-; four priests, twenty-nine students for the priesthood, one hundred and two houses of worship, beside forty- seven chapels and stations, thirty-six schools, including five colleges, in all having over eight thousand pupils. It has also six asylums, four hospitals, and eight con- vents. It holds enormous properties, draws heavily upon the purses of its members, and works its affairs with the precision of machinery. Saddlier's Catholic Almanac for 1870 estimates the Catholic population of the dioct - ; of Monterey and Los Angeles at thirty mi^ 406 TIfE GOLDEN STATE. thousand; and the whole number in the State can hardly fall short of one hundred thousand. The Methodist Episcopal Church has in California one hundred and thirteen preaching stations, one hun- dred and twenty preachers, (including probationers,) five thousand two hundred members, and one hundred iand forty-six Sunday-schools, with nearly nine thousand scholars. It has also ninety-three church buildings and fifty-five parsonages, valued at $990,000. The Univers- ity of the Pacific owns a valuable property near San Jose. The Methodist Epis opal Church South has fifty so- cieties, fifty-one ministers, 3,385 members, twenty-three church buildings, and twenty-three parsonages, valued at $1 10,000. They have a prosperous college at Vaca- ville, Solano county, and an academy at Visalia. The Methodist bodies comprise nearly a third of the Prot- estants in the State. The Old and New School Presbyterians have effected a union. In California they have eighty-eight preach- ers and forty-two churches, with 2,600 members and 3,500 Sunday-scholars. The Cumberland Presbyterians claim twelve hundred members, chiefly in the interior counties. The Congregationalists, who differ from the Presby- terians chiefly in the simple democracy of their church government, report forty-nine ministers and forty-eight churches, with a membership of 2,121, and 5,178 Sun- day-scholars. They hold church property valued at $271,000, including thirty-two houses of worship. The Baptists, who are also Congregational in govern- ment, have fifty-eight ministers and sixty-two churches, with three thousand members. RELIGION. 407 The Disciples — a branch of the Bajptist family — probably number two thousand or more. The Episcopalians report forty-five clergymen and thirty-four churches, with about two thousand commu- nicants and 2,600 Sunday-scholars. They have a theo- logical school at Benicia, with a dozen students, and are zealous for the establishment of schools in every parish, distrusting the public schools as unreligious. The Unitarians have four congregations and four ministers, with a probable Sunday attendance of one thousand or twelve hundred, and a scattered constitu- ency of several thousand more. The Swedenborgians, or Church of the New Jerusa- lem, have two small congregations in San Francisco; and there are several minor sects represented in the State. There cannot be less than ten thousand Jews, who hold fast to the ten commandments and the worship of the Living One, though they have only three or four synagogues. In round numbers, the Protestants have four hundred churches, four hundred ministers, twenty-five thousand members, and twenty-five thousand children gathered in Sunday-schools, with a probable attendance at Sun- day meetings of twenty-five thousand persons who are not counted as members, making in all a population of seventy-five thousand wiio are directly under this form of religious instruction and influence in California. Of the Catholic population not more than seventy- five thousand are likely to be reached by the efforts of the priests, making a total of one hundred and fifty thousand nominal Christians. wm 408 r-Kff GOLDEN STATE, PRISONS, CRIMES, ASYLUMS, CHARITIES, &C. Prisons and asylums are doubtless the last institu- tions that could be thought of by the fortune-seekers who look toward California and sigh to grasp her golden treasure. But such institutions, the accompani- ments of "civilization," are found even in California. The rapid acquisition of fortunes, founding of civil government, establishment of religion, education, and refinement, have not been the sole aim and occupation of those who visited California, as can be attested by the terrible calendar of crime and the ever-lengthening column whose gory sides still run with the life-blood of the victims of the murderous knife and pistol; and the cry for more room to accommodate the ever-in- creasing throng who unwillingly seek an admission into the expanding jails, prisons, and asylums of the State. If California can boast of her virtuous, industrious, honest, and progressive men and women, so, too, she may mourn over her corrupt, idle, vicious, profligate, and criminal rabble, who, trampling under foot every impulse of manhood, virtue, honesty, and industry, seek only by crime to subsist at the sacrifice of the lives, property, virtue, and peace of their fellow-beings ; and as California can boast of her success, activity, mental and moral forces, quickened and propelled by the cos- mopolitan nature of her population, her genial climate, and invigorating atmosphere, so she can look with horror upon her intensified crime, the result of the same natural causes. Crime, at best, in any of the States of America or portions of Europe, where but a single race of mankind live, is bad enough ; but where the concentrated sin CRIMES AND PRISONS. 400 and villany of every portion of the world meet in their poncrete and angular forms it is appalling ; and in no other portion of the globe, outside of California, does crime assume so many and such loathsome forms. Here the highwayman and mountain-robber are repre- sented by the daring and boldness of every race of men. The horse-thief has the dash and agility of Europe, Asia, and America. The Jesperado comes from every part of America, Asia, Europe, and the islands of the seas; and the professional burglar has picked locks in both hemispheres: the ponderous doors of mighty iron safes at his bidding fly open alike in Paris, London, Pekin, and San Francisco. The midnight-ranger, who, with murderous club, knife, pistol, or lariat', lurks for the unsuspecting pedestrian, came across the seas with the brand of the criminal and his hands red with the blood of his fellow-men. The slip-shod, sly sneak-thief, who, with bated breath, spectre- like, passes through apertures, doors, and windows as he nimbly plies his "jimmey," skeleton-key^, and chlo- roform on. his march to the throat or pockets of his unconscious victim, has perhaps acquired the perfec- tion of his art in Hamburg, Paris, London, or the penal . colonies of Australia. The shaven-headed, sandal-footed, shrunken-shanked, almond-eyed, addle-pated Chinaman, who, with stealth of fox and eye of lynx, "counts your chickens before they are hatched," and throttles your favorite rooster at the dead watch of the night, first, "like the hen gathereth her brood under her wing," bagged his chickens by the waters of the Hoang-ho or the Yang- tse-kiang. The well-dressed gambler who lies in wait for the "honest miner" — the quack doctor with specif- 41 o THE GOLDEN STATE, ics for all diseases — the diviner of things past, present, and to come, "speaking all languages" and interpret-, ing the phases of the moon, the ebb and flow of tides, who looks equally wise in the shuffling of cards, rolling of globes, manipulating of crowns, or the tickling of palms, as he throws the mystic symbols of his art before his victim — may all have left their country for their country's good, and sought a new field for their opera- tions in the land of gold. The lewd courtesan ; the "nice young man travelling for his health ; " the genteel "bummer," who picks his teeth at the doors of fashion- able hotels, escorts stylish ladies to the opera, boas'ts of female conquests, and "subsists upon the enemy;" the vender of bad whiskey and other poisonous drugs ; the unwashed and seedy street-comer loafer and bar- room bummer, whose unsavory breath pollutes the air, and whose unappeased maw and guzzling throat wel- conies the stray criimbs, shrimps, and slops of the " saloon ; " the " standing witness," who testifies accord- ing to his pay ; the traducer and calumniator, who, for hire, drags the secrets of the family-circle and the grave before the public ; the scribbler, who, through a subsi- dized and venal press, blasts the fair fame of man, and bends the pregnant hinges of the knee where thrift may follow fawning — these, with a large number of vicious, idle, frivolous, none-producing vagabond men and women, create in a great degree the burdens and evils against which the industrious, honest, pro- ducing people of California have to contend. To hold in check the ever increasing tide of crime, and relieve the misery and want incident to idleness and profligacy, has sorely burdened the people of Cali- fornia, who find the establishment of new criminal CRIMES AND PXISONS, 411 courts, the building of capacidus jails, hospitals, and asylums a matter of yearly increasing necessity. STATE PRISON. At San Quentin, twelve miles north of San Francisco, in Marin county, is the State Prison, where representa- tives of every race can be seen, serving out the penalty of almost every conceivable crime and those too terri- ble for the ear. This institution was established in 1851, since which period to the ist of January, 1870, there have been 4,528 convicts lodged within it. 'Estimating the population of the State from 1851 to the end of 1870 at five hundred thousand, it will be seen that one out of every one hundred and ten of the popu- lation have been in the State prison: the number of persons convicted more than once must be deducted from this enumeration ; but even this would leave the number of convictions large beyond comparison. It is estimated that more than twenty-five thousand persons have been " indicted in the State for the commission of felonies ; and that the total number of arrests in Cali- fornia, from the year 1849 to the beginning of 187 1, for every species of crime and misdemeanor, amounts to four hundred thousand. As the population of the State from 1849 to the present period would average but little over this number, it will be seen that the number of arrests made during the twenty years of the existence of the State about equals the whole population ; but it must not be understood that every person in California has been arrested at some period of his stay here : the fact that there has been a continuous stream of people passing through the State, and hoards of straggling vagabonds and adventurers from all parts of the world 412 THE GOLDEN STATE. passing to and fro into the adjacent territories, and the fact that the same persons have been arrested many times, will, to a great extent, account for what might seem a record of unparalleled crime. In the city of San Francisco, for the year ending June 30, 1870, there were 15,232 arrests made by the police; twelve thousand of which can be traced to the direct influence of intoxicating drink. During this period, the loss of stolen property to the amount of $130,517 was reported to the city police; of which jj 110,262 was re- covered. The completion of the overland railroad brought to San Francisco a great influr of professional thieves, bunjlars, and counterfeiters from Atlantic cities ; but so Dold were the operations of these professionals, and so efficient the detective police, that in nearly every instance the guilty parties wc***^ arrested, and many of them are now in the State prison. At the beginning of the year 1870, there were 732 prisoners. confined in the State prison. Of this number 374 were native-born Americans, 73 of whom were born in California. Every State in the Union was repre- sented in this institution. There were also 358 persons of foreign birth confined here. Almost every known language was spoken, and almost every profession and trade represented except clergymen and lawyers. Of the total number of convicts, 5 15. could read, and 217 could neither read nor write. Of the Americans, 288 could read, and of the foreigners 227. The total of all classes that could read and write was 444. Many of the prisoners were serving a third, fourth, and fifth term, and one his sixth term, in a State prison. During the year 1869, a school was established in the , INSANE ASYLUM. 413 prison, and many of the convicts availed themselves of the opportunity and devoted all their leisure time to study. The annual expense of conducting this establishment is ^114,600. Beside this, there was, at the beginning of 1870, a debt of ^^87,000 incurred in enlarging the buildings; and the sum of <|530,ooo paid in this year, to settle an adverse tide to the prison grounds. INSANE ASYLUM. Insanity prevails to an alarming extent throughout the whole Pacific coast, superinduced to some extent by climatic effects, combined with intemperance, the excit ing scenes of speculation, and sudden revulsions in fortune, or protracted impecuniosity. No particular class indicates excess over its fellows in these maladies and afflictions. The stalwart Polander and the meek Mongolian, the millionaire and the beggar, alike t.vvell the ranks of the insane and the suicide. As in the case of the State prisoners, every State in the Union and almost every nation on the globe is rep- resented in this institution. There were 920 patients in the State insane asylum at Stockton at the beginning of the year 1870, and increasing numbers still pressed forward from every section of the State, seeking admis- sion inta an institution already crowded beyond its utmost capacity. Of this number, (920,) 676 were males and 244 were females. Insanity is much greater among the foreign than among the American native born. Of 482 persons admitted in 1869 — of whom 102 were females — but 179 were Americans; while 283 were foreigners and 20 unknown. These unfortunates came " from Greenland's icy mountains to India's cOral 414 THE GOLDEN STATE, ^Strand " — one from Iceland and one from India. Ireland ^as represented by the largest number of any foreign nation^-99 ; next came Germany with 37 ; England, 29; France, 18; and China, 17. During the nineteen years of the existence of the asy- lum — from 185 1 to 1S70 — the total number admitted int(%it was 4,596; of whom 1,001 died and 2,243 were restored to reason. The expense of maintaining this mstitution is about ^152,000 per annum. EXECUTIVE, JUDICIARY, LAWS, &c. In a preceding chapter will be found a list of all the Spanish and Mexican civil and military governors and American military governors of California from the first settlement of the country to and including the year 1849. Since that period to the present there have been ten governors in California, as follows : Peter H. Burnett, who was the first American governor after the military rule, was elected by the people on the 13th of November, 1 849, his term of office commencing on the 15th of December following; he served until January 8, 1 85 1, when he resigned, and was succeeded by John McDougall, who was elected lieutenant-governor with Burnett; McDougall served until the ist of January, 1852; John Bigler, who was elected' for two terms in succession, served from January i, 1852, to January 1, 1856; J. Neely Johnson, from 1856 to 1858; John B. Weller, from 1858 to i860; Milton S. Latham, who was elected for the term from i860 to 1862, after filling the office for fourteen days, resigned on January 14, i860, and was elected United States senator; John G. Downey, who was elected lieutenant-governor with I^tham, served as governor until i862;^Leland Stan- EXECUTIVE, JUDICIARY, LAWS, ^e. 415 ford, January, 1862, to December, 1863. After tliis the* governor was elected for a term of four years. Fred- erick F. Low was inaugurated on the first Monday in December, 1863, ^^^ served until the first Monday in December, 1867; upon which day Henry H. Haight was inaugurated to serve until the first Monday in De- cember, 1871 ; at which time Newton Booth v/as inau- gurated governor for the following four years. The governor, with a lieutienant-governor, i.'j elected for a term of four years. The governor receives a salary of seven thousand dollars per annum in gold, (the ■ irgest salary of any governor in the Union.) He resides at Sacramento, the capital of the State. The lieutenant-governor receives an annual salary of $3,600; he is compelled by law to reside at the State prison as resident director of that institution. The governor must be at least twenty-five years of age, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the S^^ate two years previous to his election. In the Legislative department there are two branches — the senate and assembly ; the first consists of forty members, elected by the people for a term of four years. The lower branch, or assembly, consists of eighty mem- bers, elected by the people for a term of two years. California is represented at the national capital by two senators, elected by the Legislature for a term of six years ; and by three congressmen, elected by the people for a term of two years. All male citizens twenty-one years of age are entitled to vote at all election^. The laws of California, in protecting individuals in, their personal property and private rights, are most liberal. A homestead, of the value of five thousand dollars, is exempt from all debts, and may be held by r^ip ^mmmmm 416 rJZff GOLDEN STATE. the head of a family, a husband, widow, widower, or any person, married or single, acting as the head of a family; and any unmarried person, not acting as the head of a family, may hold a homestead of the value of one thousand dollars. The separate property of husband and wife, before marriage, remains the separate property of each after marriage ; so the property of each, acquired by inheri- tance or gift after marriage, remains the separate prop- erty of the individual acquiring it. California has, by statute, wisely protected her people from the machinations and spoliations of the heartless creditor by exempting the tools of the mechanic, the horse and cart of the laborer, the dray or wagon of the expressman, the horses, farming implements, feed, and seed of the farmer, the library of the professional man, and the household furniture, provisions, and clothing of every householder in the State, from execution. There is neither arrest nor imprisonment for debt, except in the cases of fraud or an absconding debtor. All the children of the family inherit alike. The father or husband controls all the joint property, and can dispose of it without the consent of the wife, except the homestead, which he cannot encumber or sell v.^th- out the wife's consent. The husband also has the management of the wife's separate property, but the wife, on application to a competent court, can have another person appointed her agent. Lands cannot be tied up indefinitely, as by statute a will to real estate is limited to two lives in being; and a lease cannot be made of real estate for a longer period than ten years, except for a town lot, vyhich may extend a period of twenty years. EXECUTIVE, JUDICIARY, LAWS, &*e. 417 :he ind tept [•th- the the iave Ccnveyance by deed grants the /ee simple; most all the other titles known m other parJs of the world are almost entirely unknown in the State. Statute of Limitations. — Articles charged in a store- account are barred in one year; on an account not in writing, two years; on a contract in writing, promissory note, &c., in four years; on a judgment, five years. Divorce. — A divorce may be granted for any of the following causes: natural impotency, existing at the time of marriage; want of consent of parents where the female is under fourteen years of age, unless a rati- fication of the marriage is made after the parties become of age ; by an act of adultery of either party; excessive cruelty; habitual intemperance; wilful desertion by either party for a period of two years; failure on the part of the husband to provide the necessaries of life for the wife (he having the ability) for the term of three years; obtaining the consent of either party by fraud; the conviction of either party of a felonv. A residence in the State of six months next preceding the action is necessary, in order to give a court jurisdiction. JUDICIARY. The Supreme Court of California consists of five judges, elected by the people for a term of ten years each, at a salary each of six thousand dollars per annum. It is the court of last resort in the State. . Terms of this court are held at Sacramento on the first Mondays in January, April, July, and October. The State is divided into nineteen judicial districts with a district court of original jurisdiction in each. In each of these districts a judge is elected by the people, ' 27 mmmm THE GOLDEN STATE. lor a term of six years, at a salary of five ^housand dollars. There are four judicial districts in the city of San Francisco : in these latter the salary is six thou- sand dollars each per annum. Each of the fifty counties in the State has a court called the county court. There are also other inferior courti of limited jurisdiction. California constitutes a sepaiate United States judi- cial district, presided over by a United States district judge, at a salary of five thousand dollars per annum. Courts are held at San Francisco, beginning on the first Monday in April, second Monday in August, and first Monday in December. The States of California, Oregon, and Nevada con- stitute the Ninth United States circv f ; and a United States circuit court is held at San Francisco, com- mencing its terms on the first Monday in February, second Monday in June, and first Monday in October. The judge's salary is five thousand dollars per annum. The legal profession is well represented on the Pa- cific coast, and judges and attorneys of unimpeachable integrity and eminent attainments maybe found all over the States and Territories of the entire country. There are at least from seven to ten lawyers in California where there should be one. In all the towns and vil- lages, and especially in San Francisco, where there are over Jive hundred of them, there is a great overstock of lawyers, and many of them find it most difficult to earn a livelihood. Some few firms and individuals do a fair business and some few a large business \ but when a comparison is made between the lawyers of the State and the merchants, farmers, or other classes and branches of indus'try, it may be safely said that the lawyers of California as a class are the poorest men in TRADES AND PROFESSIONS. 419 the State, and that great numbers of them eke out an impecunious and precarious existence, from which there is no hope of rehef until they abandon the profession. Three or four hundred of the lawyers now in San Fran- cisco could soon add much to their fortune, health, morals, and the benefit of the State, by tilling the soil, raising stock or chickens, making butter, running sawmills or conducting some branch of regular industry. The same might in truth be said of doctors and other professional men, who, for the sake of staying in a city, undergo all the pangs of poverty, while the broad acres of a gen- erous soil only aw-at the touch of industry to yield its rich harvest and bounteous rewards. Throughout the whole Pacific coast, every city, village, and town is overstocked with "professional men" — lawyers, doctors, dentists, " artists," &c. — and still thou- sands of young men in the East anxiously seek the West for a field of professional labor. The anvil and the plow still call for young and active men, promising them peace, health, and plenty, while the occupations suited to woman, and the streets, concert halls, gambling houses, and drinking saloons are crowded with stalwart "loafers" and decayed dandies, who, in our practical age, are but a burlesque upon the sex to which they belong. I m.rj^x Lti yr^fnrtwf^flimi^fSfpwilf^^ ^^^^t^^mm mmmmmmm 420 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER XXVII. Chinese empire — Chinese in the United States — Seeking gold in America — In California — Employments, character, and customs of the Chinese — Chinese in San Francisco — Moral depravity — Chinese persecuted — Social and political condition of the Chinese — ^Buddha, Confucius, and Mencius — Religion of the Orient — -Chinese classics — Opium and other stimulants — Small feet of the women — Christianity among the Chinese — Coolyism — Chinese slavery in America — Spanish barbarity. The great empire of China, with its four hundred million of people, peculiar in physical type, customs, and religion, has, until a recent period, remained compara- tively excluded from the rest of the world. Commercial intercourse with many of the seaports of the empire has long existed, but the great interior of the country, with its olive-faced, almond-eyed, sha- ven-headed, sandal-footed people, is still almost un- known. Merchants, travellers, and missionaries may be found about the seaports, and gradually work their way into the skirts of the country; but European customs and the name of Christ and his mission are all unknown to the people of this vast empire, still dreaming over the philosophy of Buddha and Confucius, plodding along without the appliances of steam and the aid of modern invention. China is to-day as it was centuries ago, and centuries hence will find this vast nation almost as exclusive as it has been since the creation of the race. Until a recent period no Chinaman was allowed to leave his country, and if by accident or design any found their way into foreign lands, and returned to their > IS i ^ 19 lir ^PilfPiiiiilipPi! HBP" h P w tl A hi si "] b. P' af C th F] ne in th mi tH; foi an sei firs CHINESE IN AMERICA. 421 homes, transportation for life or decapitation awaited them. Throughout the civilized world to this day the ap- pearance of the strange people of this old*^st empire, with flowing robes, sandals, and cue, is a source of wonder and curiosity,' always suggesting the Darwinian theory of the creation of our species. The date of the arrival of the first Chinaman in America is uncertain. A few Chinese and Japanese have, at remote periods, been driven from their native shores to the islands of the Pacific, and occasionally upon the western coast of America; but no effort had been made for thousands of years, either by these people or their governments, to see other lands or affiliate with other people. In the twenty years from 1820 to 1840 but eleven Chinese had arrived in the United States, and from 1840 to 1850 but three hundred and thirty-five. Of this latter number three hundred had arrived at San Francisco in 1 849, induced to seek their fortunes in the new El Dorado. The discovery of gold in California forms a new era in the history of Chinese migration. The proximity of the Golden State to the Orient, with direct ocean com- munication, soon broke the hermetic seal of the "flowery kingdom," and brought floods of its strange people to thv. shores of America. A few years before the discovery of gold in Cali- fornia, vessels trading between China, the Pacific islands, and San Francisco carried a few Chinese as cooks and servants. On the 2d day of February, 1848, the brig Eagle, from Canton, arrived at San Francisco with the first Chinese in the country — one woman and two men 422 THE GOLDEN STATE. who came over in the employ of an American gentle- man long resident in China. The men went to the mines, and through them and the masters of vessels anxious to employ their craft in profitable trade news reached China of the rich gold-fields of America. Yankee ingenuity was soori employed, and walls, trees, cliffs, and masts of ships at Hong-Kong and Canton pro- claimed in blazing colors and Oriental hieroglyphics the startling news of mountains of gold in California. Late in 1848 a few Chinese gold-hunters arrived at San Francisco, and in 1849 came an addition of three hundred ; so that the earliest American pioneer to the gold-fields found himself face to face with these people. At first the Chinese were regarded with great curiosity and treated with kindness; but the vast numbers in which they soon came to the country, their exclusive habits and indifference to every thing American, changed kindness to fierce hostility, which loses none of its bitterness with lapse of time. The number of Chinese who arrived at San Francisco in 1850 was four hundred and fifty; in 1 851, twenty seven hundred; and in 1852, eighteen thousand — more than eleven thousand having arrived in the month of June of this year. The total number of Chinese who arrived in the American republic to and including 1870 is estimated at one hundred and fifty thousand ; of whom, according to *"he census returns, 63,154 still remain in the country, 74,646 have returned home, and twelve.thousand have died. (The bodies of the dead are all sent to China.) Of the 63,154 Chinese in the United State's, 60,765 are on the Pacific coast, as follows: California, 49,277; Nevada, 3,152; Oregon, 3,330; Arizona, 20; Idaho, CHINESE IN AMERICA. 423 4,274; Utah, 445; and Washington Territory, 234; leaving but 3,389 Chinese in the whole republic outside of the Pacific coast; of this number, 1,949 are in that portion of Montana in and about the region properly embraced with the area. of the Pacific slope. These are divided among the following States and Territories, as follows : Arkansas, 98 ; Connecticut, 2 ; Georgia, i ; Illinois, i; Iowa, 3; Kentucky, i; Louisiana, 71; Maine, i ; Maryland, 2 ; Massachusetts, 87 ; Michigan, i; Mississippi, 16; Missouri, 3; New Jersey, 5; New York, 29; Ohio, i ; Pennsylvania, 13; South Carolina, I ; Texas, 25 ; Virginia, 4 ; Colorado, 7 ; District of Columbia, 3; Montana, 1,949; Wyoming, 143. It will be observed that by the census of 1870 many of the States had not a single Chinese in them. The census of this year shows but 55 Japanese in the whole republic, as follows: California, 33; Massachusetts, 10; Michigan, i; New Jersey, 10; and Pennsylvania, i. Since this period many Japanese have arrived in the country, the great majority being of the higher classes, and have entered our colleges and scientific schools, where they make rapid progress in the languages, and seem to feel a deep interest in adopting the costume, lan- guage, and customs of the new world. Many Ameri- cans have, within the past two years, at the invitation of the Japanese government, gone to that country, and, under large salaries, entered into the service of the I/Iikado ; others have been engaged as teachers and in- structors in modern civilization. Ja|)an is represented at Washington by a minister; and with fifty -five Japanese in America for the past three years, they have imbibed and diffused more of our A merican ideas than one hundred and fifty thousand Chinese who have 424 THE GOLDEN STATE. landed in our country have done in the past twenty years. As may be seen by reference to the location of the Chinese, it will be noticed that they have spread over the entire Pacific coast: indeed there is not a camp, station, city, or village throughout the remotest part of California, Nevada, Oregon, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Washington Territory, and British Columbia, but these people are to be seen, engaged in mining, wood-chop- ping, making roads, farming, fishing, gardening, wash- ing, in factories, and in houses as cooks, chamber-maids, (men,) nurses, and general servants. But, in whatever capacity employed, one thing is apparent everywhere : that they have no attachment to the soil, customs, or people of America — they don't take root in the country Not being so rugged as the Saxon or Celt, the China- man adapts himself to the lighter out-door work and to the duties generally performed by women in all parts of the worH outside of the Pacific coast of America ; and when, with his shaven-head, smooth face, wooden shoes, white stockings, and white jeans, costume flow- ing loose and airy, he is engaged in household affairs, while puzzling man to know his species or sex, he is the picture of ease, order, cleanliness, and sobriety. But see the Chinaman as he is to be seen in his own quarters — see twelve thousand of them huddled to- gether within a few blocks in San Francisco, stewing in their filth, fumes of opium and odors known only to a Chinaman — see them cooped by hundreds in a single room, packed away like mummies on shelves, in dark, damp holes, subsisting upon scant morsels of boiled rice and dried fish — see him waddling knee-deep in filth through narrow, dark alleys, lined with rickety shanties, CHINESE IN AMERICA. 425 whose each window-pane reflects the spectral form of his painted, courtesan countrywomen, plying their vile arts by such signs, gestures, and grimaces as put even the sturdy "honest miner" to flight — see all this! have your olfactories draw mild comparisons between a Chinese " stink-pot " of ancient times and these im- ported and nameless odors, and feel compassion for the hog put in comparison with these heathen, in their styes, and you may have some idea of social life and habits among the celestials in Sacramento and Jackson streets, and other localities in San Francisco. Three virtues are always found prominent with China- men: patience, frugality, and sobriety. Nothing so much draws out our sympathy and interest to these people as their childlike, innocent-looking faces, and the uncomplaining, mild disposition with which they pur- sue their allotted employment. Chinamen in the mining districts of the Pacific coast are generally employed in surface-mining, and working mines abandoned by Americans. In many instances they make rich discoveries and good pay ; but thou- sands work where fifty or seventy-five cents per day only can be made. They never engage in quartz or deep diggings^ preferri.ig to sit and shake a rocker through the long day in the broiling sun, if fifty cents per day can be made, to risking themselves underground for any iriducement. As a rule. Chinamen will not go below the level of their heads in mining on any terms. In mining, farming, in factories, and in the labor gen- erally of California, the employment of Chinese has been found most desirable ; and much of the labor done by these people, if performed by white men at higher wages, could not be continued nor made profitable. 426 THE GOLDEN STATE. Thousands of Chinamen were employed in building the Central Pacific railroad from San Francisco to Ogden, in Utah; and thousands are constantly en- gaged in similar work in all parts of the Pacific coast, always giving satisfaction. Indeed it is conceded by those employing them that, while in physical powers they are inferior to the white man, they are superior in diligence and sobriety. Drunkenness, fasts, feasts, saints-days, celebrations, election-days, clubs, compa- nies, orders, societies, parades, and every thing else that attracts other men, are entirely unknown to, a China- man. One week in each year he must have for his new year ; and although he would once in a while like to present his Joss with a roast pig or offering of a spring chicken, he will forego this, and leave his soul to fate, rather than lose a day and his seventy-five cents. With a resignation that might well become men toil- ing only for eternity these quiet people plod through the long years, heedless of all passing events save the revolutions of the globr^, at w' ose turn they count off their daily stipend. Intern?! nor external affairs of State or nation disturb noc the Chinaman. His home is far away. In the distant future he sees accumulated coin, a great ship with white sails, and a broad sea, and beyond this he sees his almond-eyed bride, pig-tailed offspring, floating gardens, fat ducks, and a happy refuge in the blessed land of his ancestors. In San Francisco whole blocks and streets are occu- pied exclusively by Chinese, where they conduct every branch of commerce and traffic in Oriental style — Joss- housesy theatres, markets, workshops, gambling houses, all in operation. There are many large importing houses and wealthy firms, high in the estimation of the CHINESE IN AMERICA, 427 mercantile community: some of these have accumulated considerable wealth. Thousands of Chinese are em- ployed in the city in factories, making slippers and cigars; and large numbers are engaged in washing. Chinese wash-houses strike the eye at every corner throughout the whole city, and in every city on the Pacific coast. The census of 1870 shows 11,810 Chinese in San Francisco ; of whom 9,777 were males, and 2,040 were females. Of the males, 877 were under fifteen years of age ; and of the females, 271 were under fifteen years. There were 1 89 males and 131 females born in Cali- fornia — 320 American citizens born of Chinese parents. No further commentary upon the morals of these people will be necessary than to state that, out of the 1,769 Chinese females over fifteen years of age in San Francisco, 1,452 are public courtesans ; leaving but 317 Chinese women in the city assuming Virtue. The Chinese in San Francisco have accumulated considerable property, notwithstanding nearly all their earnings go to China. The aggregate wealth of this class is two million dollars, all of which is personal property, except seventy-five thousand dollars in real estate owned by a "Chinese doctor" having a large practice among Americans. This is the only real estate owned in the city by Chinamen. For many years the bitterest prejudice has prevailed among all classes on the Pacific coast against the Chinese. The great competition in labor and the low- ering of the standard of wages induced by these people strike directly at the laboring classes, who raise their voices loud against the presence of those who de- grade their occupation by reducing its pay below the 428 THE GOLDEN STATE. standard of remunerative prices; and who, not adapting themselves to the institutions of the country nor affili- ating with the people, continue to remain aliens and strangers. Political parties, ever catching at popular prejudice to gain temporary strength, have grasped the passions of caste and race, thrust them into their doctrines, and incorporated them into their laws, raising oppressive barriers and cruel distinctions between nien; so that, by special laws, the Chinaman throughout the Pacific coast has been made the centre of personal hatred and legal discrimination that alike degrade manhood and disfigure the temKe of justice. Popular opinion, marking with its caustic ton^h passing men a id events, has placed a deep brand on the face of the Chinaman on the western shores of America, until society utterly refuses to receive as "man and btothei"" any member of that vast race form- ing m.ore than one-third of all the people on the globe, and boasting of a literature and religion centuries older than civilization in the western world. In California no social intercourse whatever, except in commercial affairs, is held between Americans and Chinese; indeed, no thought of the possibility of do- mestic relations between the Chinaman and the Cau- casian enters the minds of either people. Marriage with any other of the colored or mixed races of men, Iiidian or negro, is possible ; but no white man on the Pacific coast has yet made any such allirnce with a Chinese. In the strangely blended typf s of man, as found in California, mixed and crossed b; 3eds, between almost every race and shade, present Cau- casian blood; but no instance is to be found plea^Tifg CHINESE IN AMERICA. 429 the mutuality of the Saxon or Celt with the people of the Orient in the propagation of half-breed Chinese. In New York, Louisiana, and perhaps other sections of the East, instances exist of marriages of Irish women to Chinese husbands; but on the Pacific coast ho white woman has, so far, yielded to a disgrace that would at once place her outside the pale of the lowest society of her people, and endanger her life itself; for so deeply rooted and general is the prejudice against amalgama- tion with Chinese that every species of crime may be committed under some pretext or other, but the last crowning sin — to marry a Chinese — will be avoided. The human nondescript that might be produced by the amalgamation of the CaMcasian and Chinese must long remain unknown, at least in California. Whatever may be said of the Chinese religion by those who know but little about it, it must be confessed that their three great teachers, Buddha, Confucius, and Mencius, in morality, sobriety, and the plain, practical precepts of life, stand unsurpassed in the history of the human race. In all the writings of the advocates of other religions no passages more deeply weave them- selves mto the fabric of our better human nature than the sweet, tender loving tones of Confucius when plead- ing obedience to the laws of nature and advocating filial love and obedience. The doctrines of the Chinese philosophers, while aiming remotely at a future state of existence, and ac- knowledging tne fatherhood of the Deity and practical progress in sanctit)^ is unencumbered with the terrors of fire, and the mystic vail through which the disciples of miracles^ mystei ies, and metamorphoses struggle to gain glimpses of eternity. 430 THE GOLDEN STATE. To-day Christianity is the great predominant religion of the West, while Buddhism continues to be the re- ligion of the East, indorsed and adopted by half the people of the globe. Christ came to teach in the hum- ble capacity of a carpenter's son; Buddha, as the born son of a Hindoo king, stepped from a throne to the low estate of a beggar to teach humility. The life of Buddha, the founder of the religion of the East, begj'/ in Hindostan five hundred and fifty-seven years before Christ : he died ct eighty years of age. The family name was Gautama, or Sakya-Muni; and in later Jiff:; the prophet was called Siddartha, "he by whom the end is accomplished," and finally Buddha, "the enlightened," as Jesus is called the Christ, the giver of truth. At the age of sixteen, by pouring water on the head, he was consecrated as prince royal. From earliest youth he was most studious, and in the sciences of his times was regarded as most re- markable. Great care was taken to keep from him all painful sights, that his mind might not be afflicted with sorrow; but the sight of an aged man, a loath- some disease, and a corpse, for the first time, had so pained him with the thought that to such all might come as to cause a sudden change in his whole life. Turning his back upon palace, father, wife, child, and friends, in the garb of recluse, a'^iJ in the face of a narrow, intolerant religion of the Brahminical church and cruel, caste proscriptions, he entered upon the es- tablishing of broader ideas and a literature in harmony witFi the new progress. To-day the doctrines cf Biiddha are the foundations of the prevailing ieiigion <-'" Hin- dostan, Ceylon, Burmah, Siam, Corea, Thibet, Cochin ("hina, China, and Japan. If numbers be evidence of CHINESE RELIGION. 431 the virtue or strength of a religion, let us remember that, in 1872, the estimated population of the globe was 1,380,000,000, of whom 380,000,000 were Caucasian, 200^^00:000 Ethiopian, 220,000,000 Malay, 1,000.000 In-ao- American, and 580,000,000 Mongolian. Buddhism, now known in China as the religion of /^,.was introduced into that country from Hindostan about the year sixty of the Christian era, and now, amalgamated with the doctrines of China's greatest sage aiid teacher, Confucius, forms the staple of Ori- ental faith; but its origin in Hindostan dates back five hundred years before Christ. Confucius, whose father was prime-minister of the state wherein he lived, was born five hundred and forty-nine years before Christ, in the ancient kingdom of Loo, in the northeastern portion of China, now the province of Shan-tung. He was at an early age left :.n orphan and educated in retirement by his mother, Ciiing — a woman of remarkable virtues and intelli- />« ace. The family name was Kung Chung-ni, but is ro^ularly styled Kung Fu-tse. The study of diplo- macy and political economy early ^^ngaged his allen- tion. He married at nineteen, and, like Buddha, on the birth of his firsr child left his wife, the more closely to apply himself to his studies and professions. Wan- dering from province to province he promulgated the philosophy which has made him immortal in the t yes of Oriental nations, and to-day dedicates the valley where repose his remains as a sacred spot, pointed to by the learned and devout of his race as holy ground to pilgrim and priest. In the Wu~king and S-shu, " The: Five Classics and Four Books," the writings of Confucius, are found the 432 THE GOLDEN STATE. fundamental basis of the social, political, and religious practices of the Chinese nation. Here we first find re- corded that earliest manifestation of nature's- sweetest voice, The Golden Rule : " What you do not want done to yourself C' ■> not do to others ;" which, in modified and altered form;j> been woven into sacred history and laid down by Ca itian teachers as the light of the. law of eternity. Here, too, we find the first proclamation of the fatherhood of God, "All .between the four seas are brethren," says Confucius. The perfection of God and his creation is beautifully set forth in that simple, natural belief, to which enlight- ened man in all lands seems to be approaching, that "All men are born perfect, and if not educated, the natural character is changed, and man becomes de- praved." Few persons, not blinded by the green vail of superstition, watching the sweet, simple innocence of childhood, the purity of youth, and the depravity of manhood, can adopt the theory of pains, penalties, and fire for the departed spirits of babes, and that mature age, penance, and fiery purgations are the only paths to the presence of God. "Jesus may do for foreigners, but Confucius is the holy man of China," says the son of the Orient as he listens to the tale of the fierce tormeits necessary in the purgation of the "original sin" of the Caucasian. In the material world, centuries upon centuries have rolled away — kings, governments, and dynasties grown and disappeared — Persia, Assyria, Egypt, Greece, and Rome flourished and faded away — the eternal hills them- selves have lifted and lowered their heads in the lapse of time ; but the Chinese nation and the Chinese people remain unchanged. No admixture of other races leaves gong side earth their CHINA AND THE CHINESE. 433 a single line upon the physical mould ; nor do the busy changes in science, government, society, or religion leave a single imprint upon the stereotyped conditions of these people, whose primeval customs, literature, and religion are as active and fresh as they were centuries before the deluge, the dispersion at Babel, and the rule of Kublai Khan. The China of to-day is but the Cathay of centuries ago. On the Pacific coast of America, more than in any other paft of the globe outside of China, can be seen, in Oriental purity, the Chinese people. In San Fran- cisco, where twelve thousand of them live, all their social habits, pcci^liarities, and religious dogmas are practised as in their own country. In every town of importance in California, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Moa- tana, and Idaho, distinct communities of Chinese, with their merchants, doctors, prophets, mechanics, actors, priests, and laborers, are found, with their temples, theatres, and gambling-houses. San Francisco alone has five public Joss-houses^ with innumerable images of prophets, kings, gods, animals, birds, beasts, fishes, in- sects, and fearful-looking nondescript creatures having their origin only in the brain of some enthusiastic dis- ciple of Buddha. In the Joss-houses there are no regular hours for wor- ship. In each, one or more officiating priests live in some wing of the building, and are generally attending to lighting Joss-sticks^ feeding lamps, arranging vases, shifting scenes, mats, carpets, and flowers, sounding gongs, and burning fire-crackers. A fortune-teller, at a side table, in the presence of the gods, directs the earthly affi^'rs of his confiding audience, who dole out their scanty coin for his mystic art. 2S 434 THE GOLDEN STATE. People pass in and out of the temples at all hours of the day, some lounging idly, walking about, and jesting pleasantly upon the appearance of the figures before them ; others more devout bear fresh oil for the lamps, flowers, fruit, boiled rice, sweetmeats, roast fowl, and roast pig, and distribute them, in tempting display, before the painted images. After a few prostrations, cracking of Joss-sticks, burning of paper, sounding of gongs, beating of drums, and the deafening roar of in- numerable fire-crackers, the worshippers gather their offerings of flowers, chicken, and pig, and, through the smoke and odors of the yoss-house, pass quietly to their homes, to pick the sacred chicken-bones and eat the rice upon which Joss is supposed to have made his imaginary feast. Chinese never bury their dead in foreign soil, and the bodies of all dead Chinamen throughout the re- motest interior of California are gathered up by friends and agents, shipped to San Francisco, anc from there to China. The spirit of a dead Chinaman, according to Chinese belief, can never reach the happy sphere of his departed ancestors while the body lies in the soil of the foreign barbarian. Mourning for the dead is proclaimed by the wearing of white. The friends of deceased persons follow the dead to the grave, scattering Joss-paper to notify the spirits of their new companion. Flowers, fruits, boiled and roast chicken, ducks, and pig are laid upon the grave, to appease the hungry gods, and mollify the spirits of deceased ancestors. Love-making among the Chinese is never indulged in by the writing of letters or personal interviews of the parties interested; such would be considered very CHINA AND THE CHINESE. 433 ilged ^s of very shocking. Match-making is conducted by a class of women who go about from one family to another, and report to the parents of youth desirable matches of either sex. Sometimes engagements are made between mere children, and by parties at remote distances. The lovers never see each other, and, as the bride is closely vailed, the "happy man" never sees the face of his wife until after the marriage ceremony, and when in the bridal chamber. But little affection exists bet\\'een man and wife. They are never seen in company together, and if company visit the home the wife is not permitted to sit at table. Jn the street husband and wife do not walk side by side, r»or arm-in-arm, but the wife, at a reserved distance, trots along behind. The universal education of Chinamen in their country does not extend to females, but stringent laws, with penal- ties, are enacted, prohibiting the education of women. Under the existing laws of the Chinese empire, po- lygamy is not prohibited, and the husband can sell his wife and child at pleasure. Infanticide prevails to an alarming extent; but male children are never destroyed by their parents. Writers, sages, and teachers in the empire all denounce child-murder, but no law of the land makes it a crime. No holiday, day of repose, or Sabbath is observed by the Chinese, except the new year. At this time a great demonstration is made, generally lasting a week. New year is the time when all appear in their choicest flow- ing robes. New silk must be added to the cue; the head must be clean-shaved, and gorgeous feathers, silks, satins, and flowers ornament both sexes, All outstanding debts are adjusted, and receipts passed in full, paid or not paid. 430 THE GOLDEN STATE. The beginning of the year is not at regular periods o! time : it occurs in each year at the time that the first new moon appears after the sun enters Aquarius, which is at irregular periods between the 21st of January and the 19th of February. In their mode of eating, and what they eat, the Chinese appear as strange as they do in their religion and costume. Tea, the great staple of their country, is drank by all, but without milk or sugar; a small quantity of dry tea is put In a small cup holding a mouthful, boiling water is poured on this and drank at once. Rice, fowls, vegetables, fruits, sweetmeats, and pork form the staple diet of all Chinese : but little bread is used, and beef, mutton, butter, cream, and milk are totally unknown as articles of food. The use of the knife and fork Is unknown, all food being carried to the mouth with the chop-sticks: these are about the length and size of a pen-holder, and are held between the fingers, the two outer ends coming close together, and the velocity with which a Chinaman will carry to his mouth his food or a stream of soup is only within the comprehension of tlie skilled in hydraulics. The Chinese indulge but little In intoxicating drinks: brandy, wine, and other beverages are used by some, but never to excess ; whiskey, gin, and other compounds so freely used by Caucasians, are never tasted, and drunkenness^ is almost unknown. In seventeen years Intercourse with a hundred thousand Chinese, the writer has never seen a drunken Chinaman. If the philosophy of Confucius has taught these people what the Koran has taught the Mohammedan and what all the rest of our race have failed to learn, something has been accom- plished. CHINA AND THE CHINESE. 437 •s if Tobacco in pipes and cigars are freely used by neaj^ all Chinese ; but so far the chewing of this narcotic is left to their wiser brethren of Europe and America. Opium, the great enemy of the Orient, was for many years excluded from the Chinese dominions by rigid laws ; but the avarice of British merchants, in the name of the ^'Honorable East India Company," and backed up by the English government, at the point of the bayonet, in 1839, imposed its sale, and opened Canton to its free importation. Chinese on the Pacific coast of America indulge freely in the pernicious drug so fatal to their countrymen ; and, beside the regular imports, unheard-of devices are resorted to in smuggling it into the country. The importation into the United States amounts to over two hundred and ten thousand pounds annually, valued at two million dollars, upon which an import duty of one million dollars is paid. In Tennessee and other Southern States opium is grown to some extent, and the white poppy grows .well in California; but the tedious process of scoring the poppy bulbs and high rate of wages must permanently prohibit opium pro- duction in America. The great supply centres of opium are Persia, Turkey, Arabia, China, and India. This drug is obtained from the capsules of the white poppy ; it is heavy, of a dense texture, and brownish-yellow color ; not perfectly dry, will receive an impression from the finger; tastes bitter and acrid, and has a faint smell. It is used by smoking, and, while its fumes are sooth- ing and fascinating, its effects are most destructive and prostrating, ending often in physical and mental ex- haustion and insanity. Persons addicted to its use often become so infatuated with its influence that they aban- 438 TffE GOLDEN STATE, don all business and society, betake themselves to some secluded dark hole, and, drawing with their last breath the fatal opium pipe, surrender life to this subtile tyrant In dress, the costume of male and female Chinese differs but litde : loose flowing garments of some light stuff, wooden shoes, and white, drab, or sky-blue stock- ings, are alike worn by both sexes. The heads of the women are not shaven, and instead of the braided cue of the men they wear the hair fantastically glued up in broad fan-like wings, and gayly bedecked with flowers. Widows in China are not permitted to marry within three years of the death of the husband, and marriage with a widow is at all times reproachful. On her second marriage, a woman is not permitted to indulge in any display: she must dress plainly, and, instead of the gorgeous sedan of the nuptial festivals of virgins, she must be carried in a plain black chair by two men only. The custom of compressing the feet of Chinese women is of ancient but oj^scure origin : it is done solely as a mark of beauty, as their Caucasian sisters compress the waist. When the child is from three to five years of age, the feet are firmly bound with strong strips of cloth, the toes bent under, and the foot placed in an iron shoe : in this condition it remains for several years, the child meantime undergoing intense agony. When the person is full-grown, the foot is but the size of a child's. The process completely cripples the per- son, but the more helpless and tottering the greater the success and the greater the* beauty. So far, no small-footed Chinese women have arrived in America, because all the immigrants have been from the towns of Hong-Kong and Canton and of the poorer classes, CHINA AND THE CHINESE. 439 who cannot afford the luxury of small feet, and who by long intercourse with foreigners have abandonea the custom. The idea that but one foot is compressed is incorrect : both feet alike undergo this torture. In walking, Chinese always go in single file: they never walk arm-in-arm nor abreast, but string out like a flock of wild geese, one after another. A Chinaman never drinks cold water : if he drinks water at all, it must be hot, or at least warm. Throughout the whole of China, and indeed wher- ever Chinese are found, all the labor is done by the people. Horses are unknown in labor, and, unless kept by a few high officials and military men, are never seen in the empire. All the heavy burdens, stone, timber, and merchandise are carried on poles, to which hundreds of Chinamen are sometimes attached. Wag- ons and carriages of every description are unknown ; the sedan and chairs attached to. poles conveying all travellers and pleasure-seekers. In the few instances in which a Chinaman uses ani- mal force, in plowing or other work, he makes but little choice in selection of species ; so that to see a h^«i a, cow, mule, ass, sheep, dog, and a goat all hitched up to- gether would be quite in harmony with his propriety and adaptation of animal utility. Chinamen in America make but little progress in Christianity. In San Francisco considerable effort has been made by efficient and earnest Christian ministers to evangelize these people. A Chinese missionary school and chapel have been maintained for many years ; and, while many Chinamen partake of the benefits of such institutions to acquire the English language, not a dozen conversions have been made in twenty years; and a real .A 440 THE GOLDEN STATE. devout Christian Chinaman is something yet to be seen m the new worid. No Chinaman in America has yet undertaken to study our laws or familiarize himself with our system of government. During the rebellion of 1 861-5, the seventy thousand of these people in the country re- mained totally oblivious to all passing events : no one of them ever shared a single thought or sympathy with either combatants, neither frowned at defeats nor rejoiced at victories. There is neither a Democrat nor a Republican Chinaman in the whole republic of America. Coolyism, or the enslaving of Chinese, is carried on to considerable extent throughout the islands of the Pacific ocean, the republics of South America, Brazil, and the West India islands. Most of the Chinese find- ing their way into these countries are shipped from the port of Macao, lying on the south coast of China near the mouth of the river Hong-Kiang. Spanish and Portuguese speculators and captains seem to have almost an exclusive control of this traffic, in which African slavery in its worst forms exhibits but mild types of horrors. Since the abolition of negro slavery in the republic of America, strenuous efforts have been made to intro- duce Chinese labor into the cotton and rice-fields of the South, with but little effect. It is estimated that in South America, the Pacific islands, and the West Indies, there are at least eighty thousand of these unfortunate Asiatics, deluded from their country by the allurements of heartless specu- lators, now undergoing the horrors of slavery in lands where white and black alike hold them in contempt. CHINESE SLAVERY. 441 and lay the heavy burdens of servitude and bondage with relentless severity. At the port of Macao and its vicinity are agents of the Portuguese government authorized to conduct the deportation of the coolies. Other agents and runners of the Spanish and Portuguese governments drum up in the country all Chinese who can be induced to ship on a contract of eight years service at four dollars per month, with food, clothing, lodgings, and medicine. At the port of debarkation, a form implying the willingness of the Chinaman to indenture himself and embark is gone through ; and, after the vessel with her human cargo on board is ready to sail, a final inspection of willingness on the part of the "cooly" is had, but gen- erally in such a hurried and imperfect manner that the poor slave learns his fate only when between decks of the ship he finds himself battened down and with his astonished countrj'men packed like sardines, or when, on his arrival in America, he finds himself the bound slave of a cruel master, or on the auction block. To the credit of humanity be it said that Chinese declar- ing their unwillingness to leave their country are, under the authority of the officers at Macao, released and put on shore ; but under the specious arguments of "runners" they soon find themselves at sea. Great numbers of coolies find their way to Cuba, where they are employed on the sugar plantations as cooks, house -servants, washers, cigar- makers, sugar- makers, and in all manner of drudgery. At the present time there are upwards of thirty-five thousand of these people in Cuba, and a recent decree of the captain-gen- eral of the island compels all not bound, within a g^ven period, to select masters at four dollars each per month; 442 THE GOLDEtf STATE. in failure of which they will be arrested and under the government placed at labor for life, or until they select masters under prescribed rules of the captain-general and a board of directors. Numbers of French and Spanish vessels are engaged 'i|n carrying coolies from Macao and other Chinese ports to the port of Mariel, a few miles west of Havana, and after quarandne they are sent to their master? and landed at the city of Havana, their destination. All not contracted for are sent to a guard-house until disposed of, and those held under indenture are taken charge of or sold, their term of servitude being eight years, and transferred to the new master by a Spanish official. All f Jiose arriving in ill health or disabled are auctioned off to the highest bidders, who place them in hospital until restored to health, when they are set at work or sold again at great profit to the first buyer. In their new homes the poor Chinese slaves soon find their circumstances most wretched : they learn a little Spanish, but only to know their degradation — slaves to the whites, and hated by the blacks. Thrilling scenes of revenge by the coolies, by fire, poison, or otherwise, often follow act:> of cruelty by the whites. It is fair to conclude that nothing short of the inter- position of the United States government and the sub- stitution of republican freedom over the lane Tvill amel- iorate the condition of the wretched cooly in Spanish America and the West Indies. ? a T/> M n 70 ^ ? I W < s^ wm mm. COUNTIES IN CALIFORNIA, 443 CHAPTER XXVIII. Counties — Coast counties — Area — Productions — Population — San Diego — ^Los Angeles — Santa Barbara — San Luis Obispo — Monte- rey — Santa Cruz — San Mateo — San Francisco: composition of the city, its population, education, buildings, trades, professions, newspapers, nationalities, society — Marin — Sonoma — Mendocino —Humboldt— Klamath— Del Norte. In the general description of California in preceding chapters, the principal features of each section of the State — climate, seasons, mountains, rivers, lakes, bays, harbors, forests, mines, and agricultural productions — are given. To more fully convey to the reader the great development, resources, climate ind condition of the different sections of the State, ea. unty in Cali- fornia, with its climate, seasons, natural prodMctions, and material prosperity, with the area, populaiion and principal cities of each, are here set forth. The pro- ductions and material wealth of each are given as they were in 1870, this being the period of the enumeration of population. In order that the various sections of the State may be followed in their physical connections, the counties are divided into three classes: the coast counties^ facing upon the Pacific ocean, the valley and interior counties^ embracing tlie chief agricultural portions of the State, and the mountain counties in and about the Sierra Ne- vada range, representing the great mineral wealth of California. The most southern county, adjoining the Mexican Territory of Lower California, is San Diego, whicl. forms the first county (beginning south) of the 444 THE GOLDEN STATE. COAST COUNTIES. San Diego. — ^The first settlement made in California was made in this county in 1 769. Here is situated the beautiful harbor of San Diego, the early haunt of the Jesuit fathers. The county is among the largest in the State; its area is 15,156 square miles, making it almost as large as the republic of Switzerland, with its 15,261 square miles of territory. Several of the New England States might be contained in tliis county. The combined area of Delaware, Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Massachusetts is but 16,030 square miles. The county of San Diego is bounded on the west by the Pacific ocean, north by Los Angeles and San Ber- nardino counties, east by the Colorado river, which separates it from the Territory of Arizona, and south by the Mexican Territory of Lower California. The climate of this county is mild, and very equal, not being surpassed in any part of the world. Frost and snow are never seen, and the years succeed each other through successive periods of bright, balmy, dry, sunny summers, and gentle rainy seasons of brief duration, in which hill and valley are clad in verdure and fragrant flowers. In this county the rainfall is only one-quarter as much as it is at San Francisco. All the tropical fruits gro\" in San Diego — the orange, lime, lemon, and fig — and experiments recently made with the pine-apple and banana show that the climate and soil are well suited to them. The population of San Diego county is 4,951 ; of whom 3,743 are native born and 1,208 are foreigners. IRiere are 2,300 residing in the city of San Diego, the County-seat. The county is eminendy an agricultural COAST COUNTIES. 445 one, the soil being rich and the climate genial. Stock- raising is also carried on extensively. No nr.ineral of importance had been discovered in this county until 1870, when rich veins of quartz, containing free gold, were found in the southern portion. Since this time, three quartz nriills have been built, and mining is carried on to some extent. The surface of the country is a succession of rolling, bald hills, covered with wild oats, grass, and flowers, and rich, fertile valleys. Forest trees are rarely met with. There are in the county twenty thousand acres of land under cultivation, one hundred thousand . grape- vines, thirty thousand cattle, ten thousand horses, and forty thousand sheep; and there are sixty thousand bushels of wheat grown annually. Los Angeles. — Lying directly north of San Diego, on the line of the coast, is Lbs Angeles county, with an area of six thousand square miles, 1,100 of which are in islands off the coast; and a population of 15,309, of whom 10,984 are native and 4,325 c*" foreign birth: 5,600 reside in the city of Los Angeies, the county- seat. The county is bounded south by San Diego, west by the Pacific ocean, north by Santa Barbara, and east by the county of San Bernardino. The climate here, as in San Diego, is perpetual sum- mer: frost and snow are unknown. Gentle rains in winter cover the whole surface with green and wild oats ; native grasses and flowers spread over the vast rolling hills and rich valleys, which are entirely free from trees and present a charming scene. All the seini-tropical and many of the tropical fruits grow well' 446 THE C OLDEN STATE. and the county is celebrated for its vast vineyards and orange groves. The orange in this county is ripe in the months of December and January, and in quality is superior to those grown in Central America and the Sandwich islands. - The rainfall in Los Angeles is only about half as great as at San Francisco. Like all the southern sec- tions of the State, there are eight months without rain- during whicTi the sun hangs like a ball of fire in a cloudless sky ; but the prevailing westerly winds from the Pacific ocean cool the atmosphere, so that heat is never oppressive. This county was settled at an early day by the Jesuits, who discovered gold and made some progress in placer-mining in diis county three- quarters of a century before the discovery at Sutter's mill, in 1848. Some idea of the prosperity and resources of this angel land may be had when we know that there are in the county fourteen thousand horses, twenty-five thou- sand cattle, five million grape-vines, producing annually one million five hundred thousand gallons of wine and one hundred thousand gallons of brandy; four hundred ' and fifty thousand sheep, producing anfiually one mil- lion three hundred thousand pounds of wool ; two thou- sand four hundred fig trees, three tliousand seven hun- dred lemon trees, five thousand three hundred walnut trees, two hundred and fifty thousand mulberry trees, two thousand olive trees, and thirty-five thousand orange aoes. The county produces seventy thousand bushels of \'heat, one hundred and forty thousand pounds of hortey, and three hundred thousand bushels of barley; and produces one-third of the whole corn-crop of the COAST COUNTIES, 447 State, one-third of the tobacco, and one-fourth of the silk cocoons grown in California. Los Angeles is the only town of importance in the county : San Gabriel, Soledad, Anahime, and Wilming- ton are growing towns, but all small. Santa Barbara. — Along the coast line and west of Los Angeles county is the county of Santa Barbara, with an area of 4,572 square miles ; of which 432 square miles are contained in six islands lying off the coast, in the Pacific ocean. This county is among the largest ones in the State, being as large as the combined area of the States of Delaware and Rhode Island, larger than the Papal States, and four times as great as the area of the Duchy of Brunswick. It is bounded on the west and southwest by the Pacific ocean, north by San Luis Obispo, east by Los Angeles, and south by the Santa Barbara channel. The population of the county is 7,784; of whom 6,538 are native born and 1,246 are of foreign birth. Santa Barbara, a town first settled in 1 780 by the Jesuits, and beautifully located near the ocean, and the present county-seat, is the only place of importance in the county. Carpenteria, Alamo, Inas, and San Buenaventura are growing towns. The climate of this section is unsurpassed in the world ; with the exception of four months, during which light rains fall at intervals, the entire season is per- petual sunshine. Frost and snow are unknown, and the prevailing west winds of summer from the Pacific ocean temper the atmosphere, and, without being too hot or too cool, make it bracing and most invigorating. No part of Italy or the most favored portions of the globe surpass this and adjoining counties; in climate. 448 THE GOLDEN STATE. All the semi-tropical and many of the tropical fruits grow to great perfection ; and general agriculture and stock-raising are prosecuted with great success. The soil is rich and covered with luxuriant native grasses, wild oats, and flowers. No part of the State is better adapted to fruit and nut -growing than this county. The orange, fig, and lemon produce most abundantly. So far no mines of importance containing the precious metals have been discovered, but asphaltum, sulphur, and other minerals are obtained. There are in the county forty-five thousand acres of land under cultiva- tion ; four hundred and thirty thousand grape vines ; twenty-eight thousand olive trees, (the whole number of olive trees in the State being but thirty-four thou- sand;) also one hundred and fifty thousand sheep, producing annually six hundred and fifty thousand pounds of wool. This county and Los Angeles pro- duce one-half of all the corn grown in the State, and Santa Barbara grows annually more than one-third of the bean crop of California. Wheat, barley, and corn grow well. There are two hundred and twenty thou- sand bushels of barley and two hundred and seventy thousand bushels of corn produced yearly. The county is altogether prosperous, and possesses great natural resources for the building up of permanent wealth. San Luis Obispo. — North of Santa Barbara, and on the line of the Pacific ocean, is the county of San Luis Obispo, with an area of three thousand two hundred square miles, and a population of 4,772; of whom 3,833 are native and 939 of foreign birth. It is bounded on the west by the Pacific ocean, north by Monterey, east by Kern county, and south by Santa Barbara county. COAST COUNTIES, 449 The cHniate of this county is similar to that of the counties lying south of it. Rains fall to some extent during winter, at which season fields of grass and grain are all green. Frost and snow are unknown, and summer is a protracted season of eight months of beautiful sunshine and clear sky, without a drop of rain falling. Like the rest of the Coast Range, the atmos- phere is tempered by the prevailing west winds from the ocean. The surface is a succession of rolling hills, high mountains, and beautiful valleys covered with grass, flowers, and wild oats. Forest trees are scarce. The soil is rich and most productive. All the semi- tropical and many of the tropical fruits grow to perfec- tion. The lemon, fig, olive, orange, almond, walnut, and the mulberry tree all do well. No mines of importance have yet been discovered in San Luis Obispo county, which may be r'^arded as strictly an agricultural region. There are no towns of consequence .in this section; the town of San Luis Obispo, beautifully situated in a fertile valley nine miles from the ocean, and the seat of an early Spanish mis- sion, is the present county-seat and the only place of* any size in the county. The enclosed land in the county is one hundred thou- sand acres, and twenty thousand acres are under culti- vation. There are in the county thirty-five thousand sheep, ten thousand horses, and twenty-five thousand cattle. Dairying and sheep and stock raising are car- ried on extensively. There are produced annually five hundred thousand pounds of wool, three hundred thou- sand pounds butter, and three hundred and fift)' thou- ;sand pounds cheese. The county in climate, soil, and resources has many attractions. 450 THE GOLDEN STATE, Monterey. — North of 3an Louis Obispo, bounded on the west by the Pacific ocean, north by Santa Cruz county, northeast and east by Merced, Tulare, and Fresno counties, and south by San Louis Obispo counfy, is the county of Monterey, with the old historic town of Monterey, once the Mexican territorial capital, for the county-seat. This ancient town was settled by the Jesuit missionaries in 1770, and for more than three- quarters of a century was the most important point upon the Pacific coast north of Panama. Here it was that Commodore Sloat, of the United States navy, on July 7, 1846, hoisted the American flag, and declared as United States territory that vast area forming Cali- fornia, Utah, Nevada, Colorado, Wyoming, and the greater part of Arizona. The area of Monterey county is 4,356 square miles: it is within a fraction of the size of the State of Con- necticut, and is 930 square miles greater than the com- bined area of the States of Rhode Island and Delaware. The total population of the county is 9,876; 7,670 being native Americans and 2,206 of foreign birth. The city of Monterey has a population of 1,1 1 2. It is beautifully located near the southern end of the spacious Bay of Monterey, where the surrounding country is most charming. The climate of the county is perpetual summer; the soil is rich ^nd productive in all the semi-tropical and many tropical fruits ; agriculture and grazing are the chief industries of the people. The country is better wooded than that farther south, and the "Monterey cedar," a most beautiful ornamental tree, grows abundantly. Salinas and other valleys con- tain large areas of most productive lands. HollisteiV Castroville, and Salinas City are prosperous towns. COAST COUNTIES. 451 There are one hundred and ten thousand acres of land cultivated in the county ; and five hundred thou- sand bushels of wheat and one million bushels of barley produced annually. Corn, peas, and oats grow well, and one-third of the tobacco grown in the State is pro- duced in this county. There are thirty-six thousand cattle in the county, producing one hundred and fifty thousand pounds of butter and one million eight hun- dred thousand pounds of cheese annually : more than one-third of the cheese produced in the State is made in this county. There are two hundred thousand sheep, producing six hundred and fifty thousand pounds of wool annually. Bees thrive well, there being more than seventy thousand pounds of honey produced yearly in the county. . The grape grows luxuriantly, there being one million vines in the county ; the olive, mul- berry, almond, fig, and lemon grow, but the orange has not yet been cultivated to any extent. No mines have been discovered in this county, which is one of the best agricultural regions in the State, Santa Cruz. — Bounded west by the Pacific ocean,' north by San Mateo, east by Santa Clara, and south by Monterey, is the county of Santa Cruz, containing 432 square miles, and a population of 8,743; there being 6,758 native Americans and 1,985 of foreign birth. The town of Santa Cruz, situated at the southern end of the county, and facing the lovely Bay of Santa Cruz, has a population of twenty-five hundred, and is the county-seat The sea-beach here is lovely, and Santa Cruz is fast becoming a fashionable place of resort for sea-bathing. The physical character of this county differs mate- 452 THE GOLDEN STATE. rially fror^ that of the counties farther south. It is a little cooler, more rain falls, and the surface is generally rugged and much of it covered with forest trees of great magnitude and value, some of which grow to fifty feet in circumference; redwood, cedar, oak, ash, laurel, and fir are abundant. There are, however, many rich valleys, and the pasture range is excellent, as the fogs from the ocean keep vegetation green the greater part of the year. The climate is perpetual summer, and semi-tropical and tropical fruits thrive. Daiiying, lum- bering, and agriculture are the chief pursuits of the people. There are eighteen thousand acres of land cultivated, producing one hundred and ten thousand bushels of wheat and one hundred thousand bushel^ of barley. One-third of the buckwheat raised in the State is grown in this county. The grape, orai ge, olive, mul- berry, almond, walnut, lemon, fig, and fruits generally, do well. There are seven thousand cattle in the county, -and one hundred thousand pounds of butter produced annually. Lumbering is carried on quite extensively, there being twenty-seven saw-mills in the county. There are nu- merous tanneries, lime-kilns, and a paper and powder mill at the town of Santa Cruz. San Mateo. — On the coast line, directly north of Santa Cruz county, bounded on the west by the Pacific ocean, north by the county of San Francisco, east by the Bay of San Francisco, and south by Santa Clara county, is the county of San Mateo. As will be seen, this county is situated upon the peninsula lying be- tween the ocean and the Bay of San Francisco. The climate is much cooler, both in sunmier and winter, than COAST COUNTIES. 453 in the counties farther south, but frost is almost un- known, and snow never falls; and most of the semi- tropical fruits grow well. On the coast the damps and Fogs keep the grass green all summer, and the effects of drought are but litde known. The surface of the country is rugged, and its southern half covered with forests of redwood, fir, cedar, ork, and other valuable timber; but the northern end of the county is roll- ing hills and small valleys, covered with grass and wild oats, but entirely destitute of trees. Large areas of the county are fit for agriculture and grazing. Dairy- ing and lumbering are carried on to a considerable ex- tent. Gold, in small quantities, has been discovered, but no mines of importance have yet been developed. During the early part of 1871, quartz veins, containing gold, silver, and lead, but abounding in the latter, had been opened quite close to the Bay of San Francisco, and within five miles of the city of San Frati*?isco. The area of the county is four hundred and tjtirty-two square miles. There are eighty-five thousand acres of land cultivated, and four hundred and fifty thousand bushels of wheat, five hundred thousand bushels of barley, three hundred thousand bushels of oats, twenty- two thousand bushels of beans, six hundred thousand bushels of potatoes, thirteen thousand pounds of hops, twenty-four thousand tons of hay, thirteen thousand bushels of onions, two hundred and twenty-five thou- sand pounds of butter, and two hundred and fifty diou- sand pounds of cheese produced annually. Great va; riety and quantity of fruit and vegetables are produced for the San Francisco market. The grape, lemon, fig, walnut, almond, mulberry, olive, and orange are grown, but do not thrive so well as in the counties farther 454 THE GOLDEN STATE. south. There are fifteen thousand five hundred cattle in the county, twenty-five miles of railroad, and seven- teen saw-mills, the latter producing large quantities of lumber. This county furnishes Ssm Francisco with its chief supply of milk and water. Redwood City, a small town upon the line of railroad from San Fran- cisco to San Jos6, is the county-seat. The railroad from San Francisco to San Jos(S and other points south passes through the whole length of the county. There are no towns of importance in San Mateo: Belmont, Menlo Park, and San Mateo, all upon the railroad lines, are thriving towns. The population of the county is 6,635, of whom 3,493 are native and 3,138 are of foreign birth. San Francisco. — The county of San Francisco, in which is situated the city of San Francisco, the great mercantile emporium of the Pacific coast, and the third commercial city in the United States, contains an area of forty-two square miles, and embraces the narrow pen- insula between the Pacific ocean and the Bay of San Francisco. It lies south of the Golden Gate, jind the northern point of the county, upon which is situated the city of San Francisco, is a succession of rugged hills, sand ridges, deep gulches, and green valleys. On the southern side, adjoining San Mateo county, the sur- face is covered with grass and the soil is rich, but there are large ranges of mountains; while on the western side, facing the Pacific ocean, shifting mountains and hills of white sand, carried from the shore of the Pacific oceah inland for miles by the strong prevailing west winds -of summer, give a wild and desolate appeEirance to a wide section entirely barren and destitute of trees. OLD CITY HOTEL, 1 846, CORNER OF KEARNEY AND CLAY STREETS. 'First Hotel in San Francisco.) — ■ .; ■_; -ttt; i^ .- — ^- ■ ;f -i/ ' "' V=^"~ %^-. ri^^^S?- ' t^-_" ■ . , ■ — --r:! — i^, _-n-j— -----T — .^--.. ~=- *^;- -Sii ~~~- V-^-.. . g^..-.,^*^,,^*^.^- GRAND HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO, I873. "■PP'BBIP'*"^ # SAN FRANCISCO. 455 The sand beach for miles at this point is hard, level, and clean, affording an elegant and romantic drive, with rolling ridges of sand on the east and the broad Pacific on the west. At this point, and seven miles from the city, is the "Cliff House," where the great sea-lions perch upon their sea-beaten rocks, and are objects of admiration and wonder to the new-comer. A fine macadamized road from the city to this point forms the chief drive for the pleasure-seekers of the great me- tropolis. The Bay and the present site of San Francisco was fin>t discovered on the 9th of October, 1769, by Gov- ernor Portala, the Mexican pioneer, and his associates, who made a journey by land from Monterey northward, planting the cross among the Indians. Seven years later the mission of San Francisco was founded, and in 1836 the first house was built where now stands the magnificent city of San Francisco. The growth and commercial importance of the city has kept on steadily and with astonishing rapidity increasing until, in ele- gance, it is not surpassed in America. High hills have been levelled down and flung into muddy holes and deep ravines; parks laid out and ornamented, wide and pleasant streets well paved, water and gas conducted everywhere, horse railroads running in every direction, pleasure-gardens, play-grounds, public lialls, theatres, churches, schoqls, libraries, banks, hospitals, colleges, foundries, factories, and all the appliances of modern civilization maintained upon the broadest principles. The city of San Francisco is substantially built with brick and wood. Few houses exceed four stories in height: the dread of earthquakes check, building to a greater elevation. In the business centres the buildings THE GOLDEN STATE, are all made of brick or stone, and many elegant struc- tures with iron fronts painted white adorn the city. There is not a city in the United States where so much glass is used in buildings ; almost the entire fronts of all the fine stores, hotels, and offices are elegant plate glass running from the ceilings to the street, at once giving an attractive appearance to the city and light and comfort within. Some idea of ti*e Pacific metropolis may be had from a brief inspection of the leading features of the compo- nent parts of the city and its population as demonstrated by the federal census of 1870. At that period the real and personal property in the city was valued at ^ pb 5\7 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ ¥ MP.. % M ^ ^ M^.^ "t?, ,^^ 474 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER XXIX. Interior and valley counties — Resources, climate, and population — Siskiyou — Trinity — Shasta — Tehama — Butte — Colusa — Yuba — Sutter — Yolo — Lake — Napa — Solano — Sacramento — Contra Cos- a — Alameda — San Joaquin — Stanislaus — Santa Clara — Merced — Fresno — Tulare — Kern — San Bernardino. < Leaving the coast range of counties, and going inte- rlorward, adjoining the southern Oregon State line, is found a range of counties embracing, in the northern portion, a high mountainous region, and, extending southward, occupy a large section of the foot-hills of the Sierras, and still further south embrace the great valleys and agricultural districts of the State. A great variety of climate and resources is found in this chain of counties, stretching from Oregon to Mexico, a dis- tance of seven hundred miles. In the section of these counties in the Sierras snow falls to a great depth, and winter wears a stern frown for three months of the year, while through the central and southern portions snow is never seen, and toward the Mexican line it is tropi- cal, and great heat and drought prevail throughout the long, dry summers. To distinguish these counties from the others in the State, they are known as the INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES, The first of which, beginning at the Oregon State line, and facing southward, is Siskiyou — Bounded north by the southern State line of Oregon, east by the State of Nevada, south by Las- sen, Shasta, and Trinity counties, and west by the coun- u G > r o a z i-j o l^i ^ VV H K w 1 '^m % 't. > -^ >«■»;■ ties o large; squar the h and t tion o Island The 4.321 birth. mount are m; dantly and se with w it a su] are hi^ snow. the sea Min( profit, i velopm and cor and mil The tion of and cat whole ] in som( 'climate tended will pas its varie INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 475 ties of Klamath and Del Norte. This is one of the largest counties in the State, having an area of 8,740 square miles — equal in extent to the combined area of the Kingdom of Wurtemberg, the Duchy of Anhalt, and the Principality of Lichtenstein, and within a frac- tion of the size of the territory of the States of Rhode Island and Massachusetts combined. The population of Siskiyou county is 6,848 ; of whom 4,321 are native American and 2,527 are of foreign birth. The face of the country is a succession of mountains, valleys, forests, lakes, and rivers. There are many large and rich valleys, yielding most abun- dantly of wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, fruits, and berries; and several large lakes and rivers supply the county with water, and large areas of pasture range making it a superior location for stock-raising. The mountains are high, and, in winter, covered with great depth of snow. The famous Mount Shasta, 14,440 feet above the sea-level, is in this county. Mines of gold, in placer and quartz, are worked with profit, and mines of great richness are in course of de- velopment. The resources of the county are varied; and consist of agriculture, fruit-growing, lumber, grazing, and mining. The climate is colder in winter than in any other sec- tion of the State, but never so cold that horses, sheep, and cattle cannot pasture in the valleys throughout the whole year. Summer is delightful in this region, and in some sections it is quite warm; but altogether the climate is mild and beautiful. A line of railroad, in- tended to run from the Sacramento valley to Oregon, will pass through this county, and will greatly develop its varied resources. There are no cities or towns of hi U !.i 476 THE GOLDEN STATE. any importance in Siskiyou. Yreka is the county- seat. Turning southward from Siskiyou, a description of all the counties embraced between the coast tier and the range along the Sierras, embracing mountain, valley, and "bay counties," and representing the great agricul- tural centre of the State, will be here given. Trinity. — Bounded upon the north by Klamath and Siskiyou, east by Shasta and Tehama, south by Mendo- cino, and west by Humboldt, is Trinity county, with an area of i,8oo square miles, and a population of 3,213, consisting of 1,397 native Americans and 1,816 for- eigners. This county is known as a "mountain county;" its surface is rugged in the extreme. The mountains are clad in forests of oak, fir, and pine, and there are many beautiful and fertile valleys, and the county is well watered. Snow falls to considerable depth in winter, but cattle graze ac large throughout the year. Placer and quartz mining are carried on to a consider- able extent. The resources of the county are mining, grazing, farming, fruit-growing, and lumbering. Rain falls to a very great extent in winter; summer is mild, but warm. Wheat, barley, oats, corn, potatoes, and fruit grow well, and the grape, lemon, fig, and mul- berry all grow in this section, but not so well as farther south. There are but few towns of any importance in the county. Weaverville is the county-seat. The mines in this section, so far as worked, are river, surface, and bank. The greatest quantity of water used for mining purposes in any county in the State is used in Trinity. The principal mining in the county is done by Chinese INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 477 large numbers of whom worked the surface-mines long since abandoned by the whites. Shasta. — Bounded north by Siskiyou, east by Lassen, south by Tehama, and west by Trinity, Is the county of Shasta, with an area of 4,500 square miles, and a popu- lation of 4,173, divided between 2,937 native Americans and 1,236 foreigners. This county Is within a fraction of the size of the State of Connecticut, and is more than three times as large as the State of Rhode Island, and equal to the whole Papal States. The surface is a succession of rugged mountains, deep ravines, and beautiful valleys. Mining, agriculture, grazing, fruit- growing, and lumbering are the chief resources of the county. There are more than one and a-half million grape-vines in the county, and the lemon, fig, and other fruits grow well. It is the best-watered section in the State. The head-waters of the Sacramento and Innu- merable other streams send out their branches in all directions through this county. The climate of Shasta county is charming. In winter snow falls to a considerable depth In the mountains, and the weather Is cold, but cattle graze upon the valleys aiid hill-sides throughout the year. The heat of summer is not intense, and the weather, generally, is delightful. But few towns of importance have yet grown In this county. Shasta Is the county-seat. Coal and iron, as well as the precious metals, are found. The railroad building from the Sacramento valley to the State of Oregon will pass through this region, and will aid in developing its varied resources. Tehama. — Approaching the valley of the Sacra- mento, and at the head navigable waters of the Sacra- 'I in" •S J' 1 478 THE GOLDEN STATE. mento river, is the county of Tehama, embracing an area of 2,800 square miles, and having a population of 3,587; of whom 2,834 are native Americans and 753 are of foreign birth. This county is more than double the size of the State of Rhode Island, and has a great variety of resources — placer mines of gold, rich agri- cultural lands, grazing ranges, and forests of valuable trees. Portions of the country are rugged, but there are large and beautiful valleys of most rich and pro- ductive soil, yielding grain, yegetables, and fruits of every variety. Farming is pursued with great energy and profit. The railroad connecting California and Oregon passes through this county. The climate is mild; snow sometimes falls upon the mountains, but the face of the country in winter is perpetual verdure. The grape and most of the semi-tropical fruits grow well. The rainfall is considerable in winter. During a part of summer the weather is very warm. The Sacramento river passes through the county, and is navigable to Red Bluff, the county-seat, a town of 920 inhabitants. The town of Tehama has a population of only 1 63, and so far there is no city of importance in the county of Tehama. In the northern portion of the county stands Lassens peak, 10,577 f'S^t above the sea. More than half a mil- lion pounds of wool are produced annually. The county is eminently an agricultural one. Butte. — South of Tehama and bounded northwest by Tehama, northeast by Plumas, southeast by Yuba, south by Sutter, and west by Colusa, is the county of Butte, with an aree of 1,458 square miles, and a popula- tion of 1 1,403 ; there being 7,428 native Americans and INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 479 ,i;'ri 3,975 persons of foreign birth. The county embraces a portion of the foot-hills and mountains of the Sierras, and a large area of the most productive agricultural lands in the State. The resources of this section are varied — mines of gold of great richness, deep forests' and rich agricultural lands. The climate is delightful : upon the high mountain tops snow falls in winter, but throughout the valleys the climate is perpetual summer. Grain, fruit, and vegetables grow abundantly, and many of the semi-tropical fruits ripen to perfection. Rains fall to considerable extent in winter, but the summers are long, dry, and in some places excessively hot ; but the weather altogether is charming. The lemon, fig, walnut, almond, olive, orange, and mulberry all grow well ; and farming, dairying, grazing, mining, and lum- bering are carried on extensively. There are several growing towns in the county : Oroville is the county-seat ; Chico, with a population of 3,718, is a prosperous and increasing town. Lines of railroad traversing the county, together with its genial climate and varied resources, make it one of the most prosperous portions of the State. Colusa. — Bounded north by Tehama, south by Yolo, and west by Mendocino and Lake, is the county of Colusa, with an area of 2,376 square miles, and a popu- lation of 6,165 : of whom 5,088 are Americans and 1,077 are of foreign birth. This county is fifty-one square miles larger than the State of Delaware, and possesses great natural resources. Salt, sulphur, and quicksilver are found in the northwestern portions of the county, but so far no mines of any importance of gold or silver have been discovered. Agriculture and grazing are 48o THE GOLDEN STATE. the chief pursuits of the people. The Sacramento river passes through the eastern side of the county for its entire length. Colusa is eminently an agricultural county, being one of the chief wheat-growing counties in the State. Rains fall to considerable extent in winter, but snow is never seen, and the climate is protracted summer. Every variety of grain, vegetables, and fruits grow well, and many of the semi-tropical fruits attain great perfection. There are no towns of importance in this county : Colusa, the county-seat, with a population of 1,051, and Princeton and Monroeville, are the principal ones. Yuba. — Bounded on the north by Butte, east by Nevada and Sierra, south by Sutter and Placer, and west by Sutter and Butte, is the county of Yuba, with an area of six hundred square miles, and a population of 10,851 ; of whom 6,144 are native Americans and 4,707 of foreign birth. This county consists of moun- tains, rolling, hills, forests, and beautiful valleys of un- surpassed productiveness. The climate is perpetual summer. Winter is distinguished only from the other seasons by the rainfall. Summer is long, dry, and ex- ceedingly hot in many of the valleys and canons. Mines of gold, of great richness, are still worked, and great quantities of fruit and grain are raised, many of the semi-tropical fruits attaining great perfection. The orange, lemon, fig, walnut, almond, mulberry, and grape all grow well. More than one-half of the castor beans grown in California are produced in this county. Con- siderable lumber is made, but the chief wealth of the county is its varied agricultural and mineral resources. There is one woollen factory in operation in the county. INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 481 Marysville, the county-seat and principal city, has a population of 4,375, and is connected with various parts of the State by railroad and river navigation. Sutter. — In the fertile valley of the Sacramento, bounded north by Yuba and Butte, east by Yuba and Placer, south by V^olo and Sacramento, and west by Yolo and Colusa, is Sutter county, with an area of 576 square miles, and a population of 5,030; there being 3,949 native Americans and 1,081 of foreign birth. This is eminently an agricultural county. A portion of the northern section is covered with rugged hills, and large areas of the western side is tule land, subject to overflow in winter; but the greater portion of the county is fit for cultivation, and large quantities of grain, fruit, and vegetables are cultivated. The climate is continuous summer: rain falls to considerable extent in winter, and the summers are long, dry, and exceedingly hot. The Sacramento river passes along the western side of the county, and the Feather river through it. All the grains, and the orange, grape, lemon, fig, almond, walnut, and mulberry grow well. There are few towns of any size. Yuba City, with one thousand inhabitants, is the county-seat. Railroads intersect the county, which is altogether prosperous. Yolo. — Lying west of the Sacramento river, and bounded north by Colusa,, east by Sutter and Sacra- mento, south by Solano, and west by Lake and Napa, is the county of Yolo, with an area of 1,150 square miles, and a population of 9,899; of whom 7,778 are native Americans and 2,121 are of foreign birth. A portion of the. northwestern side of the county is hilly, and along the streams and rolling hills oak and other 3« I 482 THE GOLDEN STATE. trees grow; but the grtjater part of the surface is level, with deep rich soil, entirely free from forest, shrub, or stones: there is considerable low tule lands along the Sacramento river. The soil is rich, and grain, fruit, vegetables — in fact, almost any thing that grows from the soil in any part of the world — can be produced in this county. The climate is uninterrupted summer. Th rains of winter are neither cold nor excessive, and summer is delightful, although very hot in many places. Yolo is altogether an agricultural county. One and a-half million bushels of wheat are grown annually in this county, and the orange, lemon, grape, fig, and every variety of agricultural product grows most abun- dantly. Half the mulberry trees in the State are in Yolo, and one-third of the pea-nuts grown in California are produced in this county. There are few towns of importance in Yolo. Wood- land, a prosperous and growing place in the southern portion of the county, is the county-seat. Railroads pass through the principal valleys, and the county generally may be regarded as one of prosperity. Lakf. — Bounded north by Mendocino, northeast by Yolo and Colusa, south by Napa, and southwest by Mendocino and Sonoma, is the county of Lake, with an area of 972 square miles, and a population of 2,969 ; divided between 2,483 native Americans and 486 foreigners. The surface of this county is a succession of rolling hills, deep canons, and rich valleys. The hills are well wooded, and there is an abundant supply of water and native grasses. The resources of this county are varied — lumbering, farming, and grazing. Quicksilver, sulphur, borax, and copper are obtained in m CRATER OF THE GIANT GEYSER, YELI.OWSK (NE REGION, WYOMING TERRITORY. (Line of the Northern Pacific Railroad.) THE FAN GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE REGION, WVOMING TERRITORY, (line of the Northern Pacific Railroad.; BATHING POOLS, YELLOWSTONE RKCION, WYOMINC. TERRITORY. (Line of the Northern Pacific Railroad.) ! i THE GROITO GEYSER, VELLOWSTI Nr. RECION, WYOMING TERRITORV. (Line of the Northern pacific RailroaJ.) INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 483 considerable quantities. So far, neither gold nor silver have been found. The climate of Lake county is sum- mer perpetually, and the general aspect of the county at all times is picturesque and charming. The weather, without being too hot, is warm and most delightful. Grazing, dairying, fruit-growing, and farming are all carried on successfully. Most of the semi-tropical fruits grow here, and the soil is very productive. The almond, walnut, fig, olive, and mulberry grow in Lake county. There are no towns of importance in the county. Lakeport, the county-seat, has a population of 297 persons. The county is generally prosperous. Vi vij^ Napa. — Bounded north by Lake, northeast by Solano and Yolo, south by Solano and the Bay of San Pablo, and west by Sonoma, is Napa county, with an area of 828 square miles, and a population of 7,163; of whom 5,394 are native American and 1,769 are of foreign birth. The general features of this county are succes- sive hills, mountains, and beautiful valleys. Forests of oak and other trees fringe the hill-sides and dot the valleys. Springs of boiling hot water, mineral, soda, and sulphur springs of great beauty and value are found. No mines of the precious metals have yet been discovered in this county ; but sulphur, copper, and quicksilver are obtained. The springs of soda and the hot springs of the county are favorite places of resort for invalids and pleasure-seekers ; and the soda, pure from the springs, is largely sold over the State. Napa is eminently an agricultural county; the grape, orange, fig, lemon, walnut, olive, mulberry, and almost every variety of fruit, grain, and vegetables growing most abundantly. The climate Is continuous summer, and 484 THE GOLDEN STATE. the whole surface of the county perpetual verdure. Frost is occasionally seen in January, but never suffi- cient to affect vegetation. Summer is dry, and in most places in the county the weather is quite warm, although never excessively hot. The waters of the Bays of San Francisco and San Pablo afford direct water communi- cation to and Irom San Francisco. The chief towns in the county are Napa City, the county-seat, Calistoga, where are located the hot springs and petrified forests, St. Helena, Suscol, and Sebastopol. There are fortyv six miles of railroad in the county, the permanent agri- cultural wealth of which is fast developing. Solano. — Bounded north by Yolo and Napa, east by the Sacramento river, south by Suisun bay and the Straits of Carquinez, and west by Napa, is the county of Solano, with an area of 800 square miles, and a pop- ulation of 16,871 ; of whom 1 1,263 ^.re native American and 5,608 are of foreign birth. Along the northern side of the county are rolling hills, covered with oak and other timber ; but the great body of the county is level and slightly rolling land of unsurpassed fertility, producing grain, fruit, vegetables, grapes, and many of the semi-tropical fruits in great abundance. No precious metals have been discovered in this county; but cement, marble, and coal are found. The county having railroads and a direct water communication with San Francisco gives it superior commercial advantages. The climate is perpetually mild; the heavy falls of rain in winter and the drought of summer alone dis- tinguishing the seasons. Agriculture is the chief re- source of the county, there being but one county in the State having a greater area of cultivation. There are INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 4S5 almost one and a-half million grape-vines in Solano, and two million bushels of wheat grown annually. Two-thirds of all the flax grown in California is grown in this county. Vallejo, where the United States navy-yard is situ- ated, is the chief city of the county, and is growing fast: its population is 6,392. The other chief towns in this county are Benicia, with a population of 1,660, Rio Vista, Suisun, Vacaville, and Fairfield, the county-seat. There are but three counties in the State surpassing Solano in the production of wheat. The country is fast filling up with industrious and prosperous farmers. Sacramento. — Bounded north by Placer and Sutter, east by El Dorado and Amador, south by Contra Costa and San Joaquin, and west by the Sacramento river, is Sacramento county, with an area of 1,026 square miles, and a population of 26,830, divided between 16,228 native Americans and 10,602 foreigners. The county has a diversity of soil and resources. Upon its eastern side are spurs and ridges of the foot-hills of the Sierras, well timbered with oak and other trees. This region, once the busy scene of mining, is now covered with the grape-vine, orchards, and farms. There are large areas of valley lands, and toward the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers almost one-third of the area of the county is low, rich soil, subject to overflow in spring : this land is unsurpassed for its productiveness ; vegetables, grain, and fruit of almost every variety grow to perfection. Toward the foot-hills, gold-mining had been carried on to considerable extent some years ago, but, with the exception of some placer mines worked by Chinamen, no mines of any importance are now worked. The 486 THE GOLDEN STATE. climate of this county is delightfully mild. Along the foot-hills there are slight falls of snow in winter, but throughout the valleys snow is never seen. Rain falls freely in winter, and the valleys in summer are exces- sively hot and dry, grass being crisped by the heat of the sun and the dry, hot winds. The Sacramento river and various railroads afford abundant means of travel to and through the county. Extensive and varied agriculture and manufacturing industries add to the increasing prosperity of the county, which has the second largest population of any county in the Stnte. This county is famous in history as the home of General Sutter, and Sutter's Fort, a short distance from the city of Sacramento, is a place ever green in the memory of the early gold-hunter. Sacramento City, the capital of the State, is built upon low ground, on the south side of the Sacramento river. It has been subject to overflow, and is surrounded by a levee or earth embankment, and is supposed to be secure from the effects of floods. The city is spread over a large area of almost water-level plain, built with substantial brick and wood houses. The capitol build- ing. State agricultural building, and other edifices adorn the city, and add much to its attractions. Beautiful gar- dens and shade-trees ornament and beautify the capital city, giving it a green and pleasant appearance. Rail- road machine-shops, a woollen factory, and various other branches of industry give employment to large numbers of the people. Trains of cars and lines of steamboats run daily between San Francisco and Sacramento. The- population of the city of Sacramento is 16,298, being the second largest city in the State. Folsom is the only being and c( Mo nent Cisco. INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 487 town of any importance outside of Sacramento in the county, but there are several small growing places, and altogether the county is prosperous. Agriculture is the chief resource of the county, and the grape, orange, lemon, fig, olive, apple, peach, pear, and all the products of the farm grow abundantly. Onions, melons, pea-nuts, sweet potatoes, and hops are grown to a larger extent in this county than in any other in the State. More than one-half of the sweet potatoes grown in California annually are produced in Sacramento county. Contra Costa. — In an easterly direction across the bay from San Francisco is the county of Contra Costa. It is bounded north by the Straits of Carquinez, Suisun bay, and the River San Joaquin, east by San Joaquin county, south and southwest by Alameda, and west by the Bay of San Francisco. The area of this county is 756 square miles, and the population is 8,461 ; of whom 5,791 are native Americans and 2,670 are of foreign birth. Contra Costa is bounded upon three sides by water, and is called a " bay county," from the fact that it faces upon the Bay of San Francisco. The surface of the county is rolling hills and rugged mountains, with beautiful fertile valleys, and even the high rolling hills have a deep rich soil, and are covered with wild oats and native grasses down to the waters of the bay. There is little timber, the general face of the country being free from tree or shrub. Agriculture, grazing, and coal-mining are the chief branches of industry. Monte Diablo, a high chain of mountains, is a promi- nent object, and quite visible from the city of San Fran- cisco. It is directly east of the Golden Gate and San 488 THE GOLDEN STATE. Francisco In winter snow falls upon this range, but is of short duration, lasting a few days only, during which time it is an object of curiosity to the people of San Francisco and surrounding country. In this high mountain' range are inexhaustible beds of coal, pro- ducing one hundred and fifty thousand tons annually. This is the only county in the State in which coal- mining is successfully prosecuted. Copper, quicksilver, and other minerals are found in Contra Costa, but are not yet developed ; gold nor silver has not been discovered in this county. Grain, vege- tables, and fruit grow well. The damp and fogs from the bay keep the western side of the county cool during summer ; but, while these influences preserve the pas- tu rage green, they are a source of annoyance to farmers by blighting wheat with rust: indeed, all the portions of each county facing the salt water of the Bay of San Francisco are subject to rust in the wheat, while a little distance from these sections rust is unknown. The climate is exceedingly mild, winter being known only by its rains. Summer is delightful, tiie air being rendered cool and bracing by the winds sweeping through the Golden Gate, and across the bay, and passing over the greater portion of the county. Martinez, situated near the Straits of Carquinez, is the county-seat. Antioch, Alamo, Pacheco, and San Pablo are the chief towns in the county, but are all small. Nearly all the semi-tropical fruits grow well in Contra Costa county, which is eminendy an agricultural district. Alameda. — Directly east from San Francisco, and eight miles across the bay, bounded north by Contra INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 489 Costa, east by San Joaquin, south by Santa Clara, and west by the Bay of San Francisco, is Alameda county, with an area of 800 square miles, and a population of 24,237;/ of whom 14.382 are native Americans and 9,855 are of foreign birth. The surface is a succession of beautiful valleys and rolling hills, with deep rich soil, covered with wild oats and native grasses. There are some rugged hills, and the range of Monte Diablo runs through the county. Upon a few flats along the bay, and some of the hills, and in the gulches, grow oak and other trees; but the general face of the country for miles is entirely free from trees, shrubs, or stones, and is fit for the plow. The soil is unsurpassed in its pro- ductiveness. Grain, fruit, and vegetables grow most luxuriantly, and great quantities of berries, cherries, and fruit of every description are sent from this county to the San Francisco market. The mulberry and most of the semi-tropical fruits grow. The resources of the county are agriculture, fruit-growing, grazing, and dairy- ing. The climate ih perpetual summer. Snow never falls, and the prevailing winds from the ocean and the Bay of San Francisco so temper the climate that, in the western side of the county, the heat is never great. Coal has been discovered in some parts of the county, but none of the precious nor other metals have been found. Hot springs and many objects of natural beauty exist in the county. Steamers run every hour from San Francisco to Alameda, a town containing 1,557 inhabitants. San Leandro, a beautifully situated town in the heart of a rich agricultural valley, is the county-seat. Brook- lyn, Alameda, Alvarado, Centreville, and Haywood are all growing towns in this county. At Alvarado, a beet- 1 i m IF 490 THE GOLDEN STATE. sugar mill, producing excellent sugar from beets raised in the valley, is in successful operation. Oakland, di- rectly east and acrosa the bay from the <.ity of San Francisco, is the principal city in the county, having a population of 11,164. It is the third city in size in the State. The city of Oakland is built upon a level piece of sandy land, beautifully ornamented with evergreens, oaks and other native forest trees, which break the strong west winds sweeping across the bay; and in summer, when the cold fogs and winds of San Fran- cisco are chilling and oppressive, it is warm, calm, and delightful at Oakland. The great overland railroad passes through the city, and out upon a whirf of three miles in length, toward Goat island and San Francisco, where connection is made by ferry-boats. Oakland is the home of thousands of persons engaged in business in San Francisco. There are numerous educational institutions in the city and vicinity. The State univer- sity is located at Berkeley, five miles out of town. The view from Alameda county is charming: the city of San Francisco, with its hills and lofty church spires, the beautiful Bay of San Francisco, its islands, the moun- tains of Marin county, and the Golden Gate, are all in full view; and with the sun sinking into the bosom of the ocean, and gilding the landscape and bay, the scene is most lovely. San Joaquin. — The county of San Joaquin is situated in the fertile valley of that name, which embraces nine million acres of the most fertile and tillable land in Cali- fornia. The county is bounded north by Sacramento, east by Calaveras, Amador, and Stanislaus, and west by Contra Costa and Alameda. The area of the county INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 491 is 1,350 square miles — 44 square miles greater than the State of Rhode Island — and contains a population of 21,050; of whom' 14,824 are native Americans and 6,226 are of foreign birth. The county is almost level. Scattered oaks and other trees of beauty d6t the plains, lending a most picturesque and beautiful aspect. Large areas are subject to overflow in winter ; but these lands are of the richest character, and, when surrounded by levees, produce vegetables, grain, and fruit beyond comparison. The climate is mild and even. Rains fall to consid- erable extent in winter, and the summers are exces- sively dry and hot. Grazing and a diversified agricul- ture are the chief resources of the county. No miner- als, so far, have been discovered. The overland rail- road passes through the county, and steamers run from San Francisco to Stockton and other points. More than one and a-half million bushels of wheat are pro- duced annually in this county, which is in the heart of the wheat-growing region of the State. The lemon, fig, walnut, almond, mulberry, olive, and orange grow. Mokelumne, Farmington, and Woodbridge are grow- ing towns. Stockton, the county-seat and principal city in the county, has a population of 10,033, ^-nd is at the head of river navigation on the San Joaquin river: boats of light draught, however, ascend farther. Stock- ton is a nicely built city and is growing rapidly ; at this place is situated the State insane asylum. The city is built upon a low plain; it is very dusty and exceedingly hot in summer, but well shaded with beautiful trees. ^^ Stanislaus. — Bounded north by San Joaquin county, northeast by Tuolumne and Calaveras, southeast by m 492 THE GOLDEN STATE. Merced, and west by Santa Clara, is the county of Stan- islaus,' with an area of 1,350 square miles — 44 square miles more than is comprised within the area of the State of Rhode Island — and a population of 6,499 J of whom 5,147 are native and 1,352 are of foreign birth. The body of the county is situated between the foot- hills of the Sierras and the Monte Diablo range of mountains, and is one of the most fertile sections of the State, and 'produces one-third more wheat than any other county in California. Along the foot-hills, in the eastern section of the count)', placer gold-mines have been worked to considerable ejctent, and copper has been discovered ; but the county is eminently an agri- cultural one. Tht surface is generally level, there being but little timber, save along the edges of the streams and upon the hill-tops. The San Joaquin and other rivers flow through the county. Grain, vegetables, and fruits of every description grow abun- dantly ; and over the level and fertile plains, as far as the eye can reach, can be seen miles upon miles of wav- ing fields of wheat, unbroken by a single tree, fence, or shrub, and in the whole county not an interruption of rock or tree obstructs the plow. The climate is pro- tracted summer. The rains of winter mantle the whole surface in green. Summer is dry and hot ; but, as the evenings and nights of summer are cool throughout the whole State, the weather, however hot during the day, is never oppressive. Stanislaus produces every variety of fruit, grain, and vegetables, and most of the semi- tropical fruits grow well ; and one and a-quarter mil- lion pounds of wool and three and a-quarter million bushels of wheat are produced annually. There are no towns' of any importance. Knight's Ferry, the mer INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 493 county-seat, with a population of 850, is the only place of importance. Santa Clara. — In a southerly direction from San Francisco, and separated from it by San Mateo county, is the county of Santa Clara, lying between the Monte Diablo mountains on the east and the Santa Cruz moun- tains on the west, and bounded north by Alameda and the bead of the Bay of San Francisco, east by Merced and Stanislaus, south by Monterey, and west by Santa Cruz county. The area of this county is 1,332 square miles — 26 square miles larger than the State of. Rhode Island. The population of the county is 26,246 — the third largest of any county in the State — made up of 17,241 native Americans and 9,005 foreigners. The surface of the county is a succession of delightful val- leys, rolling hills, and wooded mountains. Upon many of the valleys, beautiful oak and other trees grow. The soil is deep, rich, and fertile, produ^ng grain, fruit, ber- ries, and vegetables in great abundance. In most places the surface is entirely free from trees, shrubs, or rock to interrupt the plow. The climate is charming ; snow never falls, and winter is a succession of mild showers and sunshine. Spring (January) presents waving fields of grain, verdant hills clad in wild oats and wild flow- ers, and vast orchards blooming and fragrant. Just enough of the ocean breezes of summer pass over the Coast Range of mountains to temper the heat of sum- mer to the most balmy and delightful temperature, without making it either too hot or too cool. Agriculture in great diversity, grazing, and stock- raising are the chief resources of the county. No mines of precious metals have yet been discovered, but ■! 1 494 THE GOLDEN STATE. the famous New Almaden and other quicksilver mines of great richness are in this county. . This is one of the greatest agricultural counties in California, and supplies the San Francisco market with great abundance of fruits and berries. One-third of all the apple trees in the State are in this county. Peaches, apples, pears, cherries, grapes, and other fruits are pro- duced in great quantities. There are over three mil- lion strawberry vines, producing one and a-half million pounds of strawberries annually ; Liurf being but one million pounds grown in all the rest of the State. Mon- terey and Santa Clara counties produce one-third of all the cheese of the State ; the latter i:ounty making one and three-quarters of a million pound^j a,nnnally. The olive, orange, grape, lemon, fig, and most of the semi- tropical fruits grow abundantly, and the county yields two million bushels of wheat annually. Manufacturing and mechanical industry is carried on to considerable extent. At San Jose and Los Gatos are established large woollen factories. The county is reached from San Francisco by daily trains and by steamboats upon the bay. There are several growing towns in the county. The county-seat, San Jose, is built upon the rich soil of the valley, eight miles inland from Alviso, the head of navi- gation on the Bay of San Francisco. It contains a population of 9,091. The city is well built, having many elegant dwellings. The soil in the vicinity is rich,, producing abundantly. Beautiful ornamental and fruit trees and the numerous flower-gardens lend a charming aspect to the place, and make it one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The State Normal school and otier educational institutions are located 'V'-* \ INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 495 here. The next town of importance in the county is Santa Clara, three miles northwest from San Jose. This town was founded as a mission in 1774. It has a population of 3,470. The place is celebrated for its educational institutions, the College of Santa Clara and the University of the Pacific being located here. Gil- roy, Alviso, and Saratoga are also growing towns in this county, from which railroads are projected to all parts of the southern section of the State, and to the Atlantic States. Merced. — Lying between the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada and Monte Diablo, in the heart of the San Joaquin valley, and with the San Joaquin, Merced, and other rivers passing through it, is the county of Merced, embracing an area of 1,975 square miles, and having a population of but 2,807; of whom 2,196 are native and 61 1 are of foreign birth. A considerable portion of the county is subject to overflow, but is easily re- claimed, and almost every foot of the county is of the very best description of agricultural land, which will produce grain, vegetables, and fruits of every descrip- tion most abundantly. The county is bounded north- v/est by Stanislaus, northeast by Mariposa, southeast by Fresno, and southwest by Santa Clara and Monterey. The surface of the country is generally level. Oak and other trees grow about the streams and on the mountains, but the body of the county is for miles en- tirely free from any obstruction to the plow. The soil is easily cultivated, and is rich beyond comparison. No mines have yet been discovered. The resources of the county are agriculture and grazing. All the semi-tropi- cal fruits grow well. The climate is unbroken by the 496 THE GOLDEN STATE. presence of frost or snow. Winter, with warm rains, is a season of verdure. December ushers in waving fields of grain, and rich meadows gayly bedecked with flowers through the months of January, February, and March, with ripe fields of grain in June and July, give a continuous season of summer. The progress already made by the sparse population of this county is re- markable. There are no towns of importance in this county. Snellings, the county-seat, Dover, Hopeton, and Merced Falls are the only places of any importance. At the latter town is situated the woollen factory of the Merced Falls Woollen Manufacturing Company. Fresno. — Extending from the crest of the Monte Diablo or Coast Range of mountains to the summit of the Sierras, in the midst of the San Joaquin valley, and embracing an area of 8,750 square miles, and having a population of 6,336; of whom 4,974 are native Americans and 1,362 are of foreign birth, is the county of Fresno. This county would make six States the size of the State of Rhode Island, and have 884 square miles to spare. The eastern end of the county, in the Sierras, is rugged and mountainous ih the extreme. Here the grandest forest giants in the world grow. The mountains and rolling hills are generally well wooded, and mines of gold and other metals are found in this section. Extending westward, the* body of the county lies in the San Joaquin valley. The San Joaquin river passes through the centre of the county, and is navigable to Fresno City. Other rivers of considerable magnitude pass through this county, the gieat body of which is perfectly level, having a deep rich soil, entirely INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 497 free from forest or other obstructions. Toward the west, where the county joins Monte Diablo, the surface is rolling and rugged. Here the quicksilver mines of New Idria are located. The climate in this county is varied. In winter con- siderable snow falls in that portion in the Sierras, but throughout the great valley the whole surface is envel- oped in grecii during the entire winter, affording pas- turage to the vast herds of cattle and flocks of sheep in this county. Summer in the valley is hot, but in thf mountains it is delightful ; and in the hottest and dry- est of summer, cattle are driven from the valleys into the Sierras, where they graze upon the luxuriant native grass and herbage, green during the hottest weather. In the valley regions it is perpetual summer, and most of the semi-tropical fruits grow well. Stock-raising is the chief business of the county, but farming is ca'-ried on to considerable extent ; and the soil is rich and well adapted to every branch of agricul- ture and fruit- raising. There are a hundred thousand cattle and a hundred and fifty thousand sheep in this county, and more than a-half million pounds of wool grown annually. This section has a charming climate and varied natural resources, which are being fast de- veloped by lines of railroad building through its rich valleys. No towns of importance have yet grown in this sec- tion. Millerton, the county- seat, Fresno City, and Kingston are the only places of any size. Tulare. — Bounded on the north and northeast by Fresno, east by Inyo, south by Kern, and west by Mon- terey, and extending from the Monte Diablo range to 3* ':'^l$k 498 THE GOLDEN STATE. the Sierras, occupying a great portion of the fertile Tu- lare valley, is Tulare county, embracing an area of 5,600 square miles — 600 of which are embraced in Tulare lake, the largest lake in the State. Several rivers of magnitude pour down from the west slope of the Sier- ras, and are lost in the depths of the inland sea of Tu- lare lake. The population of the county is 4,533 ; of whom 3,977 are Americans and 556 are of foreign birth. The surface of the county is rugged and moun- tainous in the extreme in the eastern end, which em- braces a portion of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and is also rugged and hilly on the western end, embracing a portion of Monte Diablo. These sections are well wooded ; and throughout the broad, rich valley of the centre of the county, oak and other trees occasionally dot the surface or grow by the river side. This county is almost as large as the States of Con- necticut and Delaware, and would make four States as large as the State of Rhode Island, leaving an area of 476 square miles. Winter, even in the Sierra range, is not severe in this county; and although considerable snow falls it is of short duration, and cattle and horses graze at large through this section the entire year. In the valleys it is continuous summer. December, Janu- ary, and February present a beautiful scene of verdure. Grain, vegetables, and fruits of almost every description grow abundantly. Winter in the valleys is made up ot mild rains and sunshine. Summer is very dry and hot. The agricultural capacity of the county is unsurpassed; but stock-raising is the chief interest of Tulare, which is third in the State in the number of its cattle. The grape, lemon, fig, walni t, almond, mulberry, olive, and orange all grow well. Mines of gold and other min- past tive,| desc hav( oranl metal aIon< INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 499 erals are found in the county in the western slope of the Sierra range, but are little developed. Visalia, a flourishing town of 762 inhabitants, is the county-seat. There are no other towns of any magni- tude in the county. Vandalia and Porterville are small villages. Kern. — Bounded on the north by Tulare, east by San Bernardino, south by Los Angeles, and west and southwest by San Luis Obispo, is the county of Kern, extending from the Monte Diablo range in the west to the Sierra Nevada in the east, . and occupying the southern extreme end of the great fertile valleys of the San Joaquin and Tulare. The surface of the country is diversified with mountains, plains, valleys, and lakes. It is well watered, and forests grow upon the rolling hills and mountains and trees along the streams ; but the valleys for miles upon miles are an unbroken field of native grasses and wild flowers, affording the finest pasture-range in the State. The soil is most produc- tive, yielding grain, vegetables, and fruits of every description. As many as eight full-grown crops of hay have been cut upon the same piece of ground in a single year in parts of this county. The climate is unin- terrupted summer. In January and February snow falls lightly upon the Sierra range, but soon disappears. Fall, winter, and spring in the valleys are continuous seasons of verdure. Winter is interspersed with warm showers of rain, balmy atmosphere, and sunshine. The lemon, fig, grape, almond, walnut, mulberry, olive, and orange all grow well. Mines of gold, silver, and other metals are found in the eastern section of the county along the range of the Sierra Nevada mountains, some ■^* 500 THE GOLDEN STATE. of which are worked with profit; but agriculture and grazing are the chief resources of this section, and are carried on successfully. Kern embraces an area of 8,000 square miles — equal to the combined area of the Papal States and the Grand Duchy of Hesse-Darm- stadt, and within a fraction of the combined area of the States of Connecticut, Delaware, and Rhode Island, and would make seven States of the size of the latter State. The population of Kern is but 2,925; there being 2,157 native Americans and 768 foreigners. Heretofore the county has been almost inaccessible for want of means of transportation ; but railroads now building will de- velop the resources of the county. Theres^are no towns of any importance in this sec- tion. Havilah, the county -seat, has a population of 439. Bakersville and Kernv'lle are small but growing villages. Considerable numbers of the cattle and sheep grazing in this and Tulare county are owned in other sections of the State, and are only herded there because pas- turage is abundant. San Bernardino. — Occupying the extreme southeast- ern part of the State, and running to within twenty miles of the ocean on the west, and to the extreme eastern line of the State, being in a direct line from Los Ange- les county to the Colorado river, a distance of 220 miles, and, from the Colorado river to its northern boundar)', 225 miles, and containing an area of 23,472 square miles, and a population of 3,988, of whom 3,328 are American and 660 are foreigners, is the county of San Bernardino, the largest county in California. The vast area of this county presents a great diver- cop| the neai the Thel tI INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 501 sity of climate, soil, and resources — rich valleys, rolling hills, high mountains, sandy deserts, alkaline and dry lakes, hot and sulphur springs. The extent of this county may be understood when it is considered that it is more than four times as great as the Kingdom of Saxony, almost double the size of the Kingdom of Hol- land with Luxemburg, and would make three States as large as the State of Massachusetts, leaving seventy-two square miles, and would make eighteen States the size of the State of Rhode Island. The boundaries of this county are: northwest, Inyo; northeast, the State of Nevada ; east, the Colorado river, separating it from Arizona ; south, San Diego ; and west, Los Angeles and Kern counties. Adjoining the county of Los Angeles, and in the vicinity of the Monte Diablo range or San Bernardino mountains, is a section of beautiful country, somewhat wooded upon the hills, and well watered. Here the soil is rich and most productive, and the climate charming. In this section are the chief settlements in the county, and the county- seat, San Bernardino, with a population of 3,060 inhabitants, leaving but 928 in all the reriaindei of the county. In this region are the Temescal moun- tains, in which are rich and extensive tin-mines. A short distance east of the San Bernardino mountains, in this section, at Holcomb and Bear valleys, are rich mines of gold in quartz and placer Gold, silver, lead, copper, and other minerals are found in many parts of the county, and recent discoveries of silver and lead near the eastern line, and the Colorado river, show that the mineral resources of the county are very great. There has been but little mining yet done in this section. Throughout the western portion of the county there 502 THE GOLDEN STATE. are many fertile valleys, several high mountains, and some springs and lakes ; but toward the central, south- ern, and eastern parts of the county are vast sand deserts, as far as the eye can reach without a green shrub, tree, or hill to break the monotony. No vege- table nor animal life is found in these wastes, except once in a while a few tufts of bunch grass ; even the horned toad cannot find food for sustenance in these regions. Here the dreaded sand-storms sometimes overtake the forlorn traveller, and the dreariness of the dry lakes and the solitude of Death valley strike awe to the heart of the " prospecter," and the enchanting illusions of the mirage draw his feet toward fancied scenes of pleasure and hope, only to be confounded and wrecked upon the burning sands of the desert. The Sierra Nevada mountains, so formidable in the northern end of the State, are broken and thrown about in fragments in this section ; so that, in San Bernardino county, they are entirely lost : so, too, the great valleys of San Joaquin and Tulare are broken up before they reach this county, which, in its physical character, is entirely different from any other section of the State. The climate of the county is summer perpetually. Throughout the northern and western part of the county rains fall through the months of what is winter at the East, although not to any extent; but toward the south- eastern end, adjoining Arizona, no rain falls in winter, and a few showers in July and August, making about three inches of rain, is all the rain that falls during the whole year. The heat of summer in this quarter is very great. Railroads projected to run through the San Joaquin valley, and also from San Diego, will pass through this INTERIOR AND VALLEY COUNTIES. 503 county; and at a point near Fort Mohave, where the States of California and Nevada and the Territory of Arizona join, will cross the river Colorado, and con- nect with roads through Arizona, New Mexico, and the Atlantic seaboard. These roads will develop the re- sources and wonders of this county. All the semi-tropical and most of the tropical fruits will grow in this section. The lemon, fig, mulberry, almond, walnut, olive, and orange are all cultivated suc- cessfully; and notwithstanding the broad, dry lakes, ashy and volcanic beds, and sandy deserts, there are vast areas of fertile and most productive land still un- inhabited. 5C4 THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XXX. Mountain counties — Area, resources, climate, and population — Inyo — Mono — Mariposa — Tuolumne — Calaveras — Amador — Al- pine — El Dorado — Placer — Nevada — Sierra — Plumas — Lassen. Turning northward from the Colorado river and the deserts of San Bernardino county, and following the ridge of the Sierra Nevada mountains to the Oregon State line, is found that range of counties embracing the greater part of the Sierras, with their wonderful forest giants, lofty mountains, and magnificent water- falls; here, too, are the great treasure vaults of the Golden State, with representatives of every race and kindred of man bowing to and knocking at their doors. This chain of counties is known as the MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. Some years ago, when the placer mines of some of these counties became exhausted, the miners aban- doned them and sought the valley counties as a place of permanent abode. Within a more recent period, the great capacity of these mountain regions for pro- ducing grain, vegetables, and fruit has been ascer- tained: particularly have they become celebrated for grape-growing, and for producing the finest wines in California. Nearly every variety of fruit, including the orange, olive, lemon, and fig, grow in most of these counties, ana orchards, vines, and gardens now bloom upon the ruins of the early miner's temporary home along the foot-hills and gulches of the western slope of the Sierras. For diversified agriculture and the far- V. 1 'I' 'ill, i l MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 505 mer's home, these mountain counties, generally well wooded, with pure water and pure air, are much pref- erable to the low and flat valley reg'ions ; and, although it is but a very few years since any attention was first paid to agriculture in this section, the material progress made is most encouraging. Inyo. — The county of Inyo, the most southern of the mountain counties, is bounded north by Mono, north- east by the State of Nevada, southeast by San Bernar- dino, and west by Fresno and Tulare. The area of this county is 4,680 square miles — equal to the area of the State of Connecticut, and would make three States of the size of the State of Rhode Island, leaving 768 square miles. The whole of this county lies east of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The surface is rugged, and interspersed with elevated mountains, lakes, valleys, and forests. The loftiest mountains in the State are in this county. The climate is mild: snow falls upon the mountain ranges in winter, but it is never very cold, and throughout the whole year sheep, cattle, and horses graze upon the hillsides and valleys. There is but little rainfall, and the summers are generally very warm. In the region about Owens lake and Owens river there is a considerable area of the most fertile land in Cali- fornia, and many small valleys of great richness through- out the county, many of which are cultivated with great profit. There are some forest trees upon the moun- tains and hill-sides, but a large area of the eastern por- tion of the county is destitute of trees, and is but a sandy desert. Springs of salt, sulphur, alkaline, soda, and poison are found; and mines of gold, silver, tin, lead, and copper, of great richness, exist. Lead is ex- 5o6 THE GOLDEN STATE. tensively mined, and veins of quartz, rich in free gold, are worked witli great profit. The remoteness of the county has, so far, much retarded its development. Mining, grazing, and agriculture are the chief resources of this section. Grain, vegetables, and fruit, including grapes, oranges, lemons, figs, and olives, grow, and the, mulberry thrives well. The whole population of the county is but 1,956; of whom 1,104 ^""^ native Americans and 792 are of foreign birth. Independence, the county-seat, has a population of 400. Cerro Gordo, Bend City, Kearsarge, Lone Pine, and Lake City are small towns in the county. It was in this county, in the vicinity of Lone Pine, that the severest earthquake ever experienced in the United States occurred, in March, 1872, as described in a pre- ceding chapter. Mono. — The next county northward is Mono. Like Inyo, it lies entirely east of the Sierras, and these two counties are the only ones in the State east of that chain of mountains. Mono runs along the Sierras for a dis- tance of. 170 mii.LS, and is about 40-miles in width, but growing narrow toward its northern end. The area of this county is 4,1 76 square miles — double the size of the State of Delaware, and more than three times as large as the State of Rhode Island. It has the smallest popu- lation of any county in the State — 430 ; of whom 305 are native Americans and 125 are of foreign birth. The remoteness of this section from markets and the lack of means of transportation, more than the want of natural resources, have retarded the progress of this county. The surface of Mono is rugged and generally well wooded, particularly upon its western side. Owens and other ri county. MoL of wonderful f the county th there are also tible of high fruit grow wel the grape liav rrning are the and grazing z gold, silver, an very litde dev( considerable si the valleys it is grasses throug! dry, and hot, bi Benton and importance in t the Sierras, in Mariposa. — ' lake and upon mountains, anc San Francisco, by Mono, soutl has an area of 4»572 ; of whon are of foreign bi sified with mou tiful valleys, da Here are the Yosemite Valley in the Sierras si| Mountain counties. 507 and other rivers have their fountain-heads in this county. Mountains of considerable altitude and lakes of wonderful fluids exist. Toward the eastern side of the county there are wide areas unfit for tillage, but there are also many beautiful and fertile valleys suscep- tible of high cultivation ; and grain, vegetables, and fruit grow well. None of the semi-tropical fruits nor the grape have yet been culdvated. Agriculture and mming are the chief resources of the county. Farming and grazing are profitably conducted, and mines of gold, silver, and other minerals are found, but are yet very little developed. The climate is cold in winter, considerable snow falling upon the mountains, but in the valleys it is mild, and cattle graze upon the native grasses throughout the whole year. Summer is long, dry, and hot, but most agreeable. Benton and Bridgeport are the only towns of any importance in the county ; the latter town, situated near the Sierras, in the Big Meadows, is the county-seat. Mariposa. — This county lies directly west of Mono lake and upon the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and is almost directly east from the city of San Francisco. It is bounded north by Tuolumne, east by Mono, south by Fresno, and west by Merced ; and has an area of 1,440 square miles and a population of 4,572 ; of whom 2,192 only are Americans, while 2,380 are of foreign birth. The surface of the country i diver- sified with mountains, rolling hills, dense forests, beau- tiful valleys, dashing streams, and delightful water-falls. Here are the celebrated Bt£- Trees and the famed Yosetnite Valley a7td Falls. In that portion of the county in the Sierras snow falls to considerable depth in winter. ' ! 5o8 THE GOLDEN STATE. but along the western side snow is rarely seen, and cattle and sheep graze the year round upon the native grasses. Summer in the Sierras is delightful, the forests, foliage, and grass being green, while in the valleys below all is parched with heat. A great portion of the county is suited to grazing and farrriing, and each year these pursuits are receiving more attention. Fruit- growing is conducted upon a large scale, and with profit. The fig, olive, grape, mulberry, almond, and orange grow, but not so well as in counties farther south, Mariposa possesses great mineral wealth, and veins of quartz rich in gold have been and are still worked w'th great profit. This is the most southern county oi the chain of early mining counties extending northward from this point. The principal towns in the county are Bear Valley, Coulterville, Hornitos, and Mariposa, the county-seat. Tuolumne. — North of Mariposa, and extending from the crest of the Sierras to the San Joaquin valley in the west, a distance of 70 miles, is the county of Tuolumne, with an area of 1,944 square niiles, and a population of 8,150; of whom 4,182 are native American and 3,968 are of foreign birth. The county is bounded northwest by Calaveras, north by Alpine, east by Mono, south by Mariposa, and southwest by Stanislaus. This county is famous in the early history of Cali- fornia for its rich placer mines, and still pt'oduces largely of the precious metals ; but, like many of the mining counties, the placers are much exhausted, and quartz-mining has taken the place of th i crevice-knife, pan, and shovel of the past. The county, once almost depopulated upon the failure of the gold placers, is now thro I are a Coc in th extei like until MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 509 fast developing its inexhaustible resources in producing grain, vegetables, and fruit; and now, in its new pros- perity, the vast canals, ditches, and flumes built and abandoned by the early miner, carry water to blooming gardens, orchards, vineyards, and waving fields of wheat and corn. The surface of the county is rugged, and throughout its eastern end is covered with vast forests of oak, pine, and otner valuable timber, some of which grow to great size. The county is well watered with numerous dashing streams, fed by the snows of the Sierras. Throughout this section there are innumerable beauti- ful and fertile valleys ; and the foot-hills and rolling, gravelly ridges, heretofore supposed to be worthless, are the finest grape -lands in the State, producing a rich, svveet grape, from which the choicest wines are produced. Apples, grapes, peaches, and the lemon, almond, walnut, mulberry, fig, and orange grow in the western slope of the county. The climate of this section is charming. Snow fall^^ in the Sierra Nevada mountains to considerable depth, and winter is cold, but this is only confined to the mountain^. In the valleys and lower foot-hills snow nevci falls ; and in these sections it is perpetual sum- mer. In the mountains, in summer, the foliage is charm- ing ; and the wide ranges of native grasses, green throughout the whole summer, while the valleys below are parched with heat, afford excellent pasturage and a Cool and delightful retreat irom the heat of summer in the low valley counties. Rain falls to considerable extent in the western part of the county in winter; but, like all the rest of the State, no rain falls from April until November. ^ i 5IO THE GOLDEN STATE. The principal towns in the county are Sonora, the county-seat, with a population of 2,498, and Columbia, with a population of 2,200. Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat, and Springfield are towns of some importance. - Calaveras. — Northwest of Tuolumne county Is the county of Calaveras, with an area of 936 squ:ire miles, and a population of 8,895; consisting of * -'^>/ , -atlve Americans and 4,218 foreigners. It is boui. it^i iiorth- west by Amador, east and southeast by Alpine and Tuolumne, (Alpine lying between it and the crest of the Sierras,) and southeast by Stanislaus and San Joaquin. The surface of the country Is rugged, with abrupt mountains, deep canons, and rolling hills. In the eastern section there are vast forests, and here are the famous *^Big Trees of Calaveras^' numbered by hundreds, some of which are hundreds of feet in height and more than thirty feet in diameter. The western slope of the county has many beautiful and fertile vr i- leys which are cultivated successfully, and the roi ny hills produce abundantly of superior grapes. Fruit 01 almost every variety grows, including the orange, fig, and lemon; but these do not thrive so well as in the more southern section of the State. Calaveras is well watered by several rivers of magnitude. But a few years ago, tliis section was regarded as a purely mining region; and, upon the decay of the rl :er gold-mines, people left the county in great nun- (v -is and disgust. Should the miner of "'49-50" now reti^'ni, he would find wheat-fields, orcl)ar»]s> vineyards, and gardens growing upon the hilis an J! in the gulches abandoned as worthless years ago, sheep and cattle ^MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 511 i grazing upon the hills, and the school-house standing upon the ruins of his once lonely bachelor cabin. Surface-mining is pretty well exhausted in Calaveras county, but mining in quartz, bank, and river :s still carried on to consid arable extent. At this period, the resources of the county are mining, agriculture, and stock-raising. The climate is delightful: in the eastern end of the county snow falls in winter, but cold is never intense ; throughout the southern and western sections a little snow falls upon the hills, but in the valleys it is con- tinuous summer. Considerable rain falls in what is called winter, and the summers are long, dry, and exces- sively hot in some places. There are several towns of importance in the county: Angel's Camp, Mokelumne Hill, Campo Seco, Copper- opolis, and San Andreas, the county-seat, are the chief ones. I Amador. — Lying directly north of Calaveras, and occupying the foot-hills of the Sierras, is the county of Amador; bounded north by El Dorado, east by Alpine, south by Calaveras, a.id west by Sacramento and San Joaquin, and with an area c'i 700 square miles, and a population of 9,582; of whom 5,449 are native American and 4,133 of foreign birth. Portions of this county, toward the east, are well timbered, and the country generally is well watered. The surface is rugged, but toward the western end of the county there are many rich valleys and a large area of agricultural lands unsurpassed in the production of the grape and fruits of almost every description; and, aUhough a portion of the county is well up in the snow I 512 THE GOLDEN STATE. line of the Sierras, the orange, fig, lemon, and mulberry grow well. A few years since the county was regarded as worthless for agricultural purposes, and was to a great extent abandoned by the miners on the exhaus- tion of the placer-mines; but now the character of the loil is more fully understood, and orchards, vine- 3, and dairies stand upon the hiii-sides and in the gu ues abandoned by the early gold-hunter, and the ditches and flumes so long forsaken are again musi- cal with their crystal streams, nourishing and invigorat- ing orchards and vines by the side of the quartz-mill and the deserted camp of the departed miner. Mines of great richness were formerly worked in this county, but at present the gold yield is chiefly from quartz- ledges, many of which are worked with great profit. The climate of Amador is varied. In the high mountains snow falls to considerable depth, and during winter the weather is cold, but the snow is of short duration, and toward the western section of the county it is perpetual summer; true, the snow from the Sierras send down a thin fringe, but it is soon dissolved. Cattle, sheep, and horses graze at large during the whole year. The heat of summer is great in some places, but toward the Sierras the foliage, forests, and grass are green, and the air balmy and delightful. There are several towns in this county; the most prominent of which are Jackson, the county-seat, with a population of 2,411, Fiddletown, Drytown, lone, SuLter Creek, and Volcano. Alpine. — Directly east of Amador, and with the crest of the Sierras in its centre — one-half of the county being east of this range — is the county of Al- o > 2! H (/T ">? n o > 3 " ■» w i I v> > en ^ 2 IP 8 ^-^ o ■- a 2 5 0. 50 D. > n a > plIK easi wes Thi of 1 abo den vail tain out fert gra; of £ and gra; at h mer gra; ing. stor upo in p wea T latic 2CX) all^ pro( groi tain, E to tl IdOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 513 pine. It is bounded north and northwest by El Dorado, east by the State of Nevada, south by Tuolumne, and west by Calaveras, Amador, and a part of El Dorado. The surface of this country is very rugged, many peaks of the Sierras standing more than ten thousand feet above the sea. A great portion of the county is densely timbered with forests of great beauty and value. Several rapid streams course down the moun- tain sides, affording abundant motive power. Through- out the county there are many small valleys of great fertility, and the various branches of agriculture and grazing are carried on to considerable extent. Mines of gold, silver, copper, and other minerals are found, and quartz-mining is carried on very profitably. As a grazing country it is excellent. Cattle and sheep graze at large throughout the whole winter, and during sum- mer, when the lower counties are parched, the native grasses and herbage are green, and the climate charm- ing, being neither too hot nor too cool. Winter is cold, stormy, and boisterous, snow falling to a great depth upon the high mountains, but frost is not so intense as in portions of the State of Virginia, and the real cold weather is'but of short duration. The area of Alpine is 850 square miles, and its popu- lation but 685; of whom 485 are native Americans and 2CXD are of foreign birth. The hardier varieties of fruit all grow well, but the semi-tropical fruits, so abundantly produced in many of the counties of the State, do not grow here. Monitor, Markleeville, and Silver Moun- tain, the county-stat, are the principal towns. El Dorado. — Extending from the Sacramento valley to the summit of the Sierra Nevada mountains, a dis- 514 THE GOLDEN STATE. tance of 85 miles, embracing an area of 1,872 square rriiles, and containing' a portion of Lake Tahoe upon the crest of the Sierras, and with a population of 10,309, consisting of 6,287 Americans and 4,022 for- eigners, is the county of El Dorado, celebrated in his- tory as the seat of the first discovery of gold in Cali- fornia by Marshall in 1848. This county is in the heart of the great mining region of California. In this county, and upon either side of it, are situated the river- beds, gulches,- and quartz mines from which so many millions of gold have been extracted. El Dorado pos- sesses a variety of soil, scenery, climate, and resources. In the mountain section lofty spurs and crags of the Sierras lift their bald heads, and snow and frost repre- sent winter; but even in the coldest portions of the Sierras winter is short and mild, as compared with many parts of the Atlantic coast. In the mountain section of the county forests of great beauty and value exist, and dashing streams, passing furiously through deep canons and ravmes, lend a charming aspect to the country. In the western portion snow never falls, and here it may be called perpetual summer. The snow line from the Sierras struggles hard to extend its fleecy fringe into the valley, but the warm winds and rains dissolve it before it descends far down the foot-hills. Cattle and sheep graze at large throughout the whole year, except for a short period in winter in a portion of the Sierras. Throughout the valleys there are wide pasture-ranges, and the Sierras in summer are green with native grasses and herbs, affording the best pas- ture-ranges in the State. Agriculture is fast developing the great resources of this section, and a wealth more permanent than gold or MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 515 silver is to be seen in the waving corn-fields, blooming orchards, and vineyards now so successfully cultivated upon the abandoned fields of the pioneer gold-hunter. El Dorado is second only to the county of Nevada in quartz-mining in the State, and is sixth in the counties of the State in the growth of the grape. Coloma, sit- uated thirty-five miles northeast from the city of Sacra- mento, and the place where Marshall, in 1848, discov- ered gold, and in the vicinity of which, for so many years, were enacted the wild scenes of early California life, is surrounded with blooming orchards and clustering vines. Fruit-growing is conducted successfully in this county, and almost every variety grows well. In the western parts of the county the mulberry grows to per- fection, and the lemon, olive, fig, and orange are culti- vated ; but these latter do not grow so well as they do in the southern section of the State. There are a number of towns in this county : Placer- ville, the county-seat, with a population of 1,562, Colo- ma, Georgetown, Diamond Springs, El Dorado, and Shingle Springs are the principal ones. Many of the early mining towns in this county are abandoned, and substantial buildings, costing from $5,000 to $20,000 in their erection in early days, are inhabited only by catde and hogs; but the corn-field, the vine, and the fig tree march steadily toward and overshadow their ruins. Placer. — North of El Dorado, and extending in a range of eighty miles in length from the crest of the Sierras to within eight miles of the Sacramento, having an average width of eighteen miles and an area of 1,386 square miles, and a population of 11,357, made up of 6,167 Americans and 5,199 foreigners, is the county of 5i6 THE GOLDEN STATE. Placer, famous for its rich mines of gold, and partaking of the general features of all the counties in this moun- tain range. A portion of the eastern end of the county- is occupied by the beautiful Lake Tahoe, and the dash- ing Truckee river passes through a portion of it. Jagged mountain peaks, deep gulches, canons, and dense forests occupy a great portion of the eastern end of the county, and snow falls to considerable depth. Toward the Sacramento a'*e a succession of rolling hills and rich valleys, and the climate in this section is summer perpetually. Here nearly every branch of agriculture is successfully prosecuted. The grape and nearly all the semi-tropical fruits, including the lemon, fig, and orange, grow. Summer in the mountain ranges is charming, and the green herbage and native grasses afford wide pasture-ranges. In portions of the western side of the county tlie heat of summer is great, but never oppressive. Cattle and sheep graze at large during the whole year, and altogether the climate is delightful. The great overland railroad passes through this county a distance of ninety miles. Placer is bounded north by Nevada, east by the State of Nevada, south by El Dorado and Sacramento, and west and northwest by Sutter, Yuba, and Nevada. The chief resources of the county are mining, agri- culture, lumber, and dairying. It is surpassed .only by two counties in the State in the growing of peaches, and is the fourth county in the State in the production of wine. Auburn, the county-seat, and Colfax, Cisco, Dutch Flat, iowa Hill, and Forest Hill, are the principal towns. Nevada.— Direcdy north of Placer, and extending in a direct line from the State line of Nevada on the east to wi Mary ing a 1,026 in the duciri: great but tl- and s in the ous ir too, V and d to the river, throu: quart for a lightfi valle} range Sacra and £ and h whole many orang carrie rior sumn press Tal vastf MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 517 to within seventeen miles of the Feather river, nt Marysville, a distance of about seventy miles, and hav- ing an average width of fifteen miles, and an area of 1,026 square miles, is the county of Nevada, celebrated in the history of California as the greatest gold-pro- ducing county in the State. Placer and bank mines of great richness have long been worked in this section ; but the quartz mines of the county seem inexhaustible, and still yield beyond comparison with any gold region in the world. The surfa- e of the country is mountain- ous in the extreme in the region of the Sierras ; here* too, vast forests of great beauty and value are found, and dashing streams and beautiful lakes lend a charm to the delightful scenery of this section. The Truckee river, pouring its flood from Lake Tahoe, passes through the eastern extremity of the county. In this quarter snow falls to considerable depth in winter, and for a brief period frost is severe ; but summer is de- lightful, and the native grasses upon the F'de-hills and valleys of the Sierras afford wide and excellent pasture- ranges. In the western end of the county, toward the Sacraniento river, the surface is a zeries of rolling hills and small valleys. Winter never reaches this section, and here cattle and sheep graze at large throughout the whole year, and fruits of almost every variety, including many of the semi-tropical, grow. The grape, fig, and orange are cultivated, and gardening and dairying are carried on to considerable extent. Like the great inte- rior of California, this section has a long, dry, and hot summer; but the cool nights keep it from being op- pressive, and altogether the climate is delightful. Taken altogether — the inexhaustible gold-mines, the vast forests, and diversified agriculture of Nevada — it is 5i8 THE GOLDEN STATE. one of the most prosperous counties in the St;ite. The great overland railroad in its course passes for a dis- tance of thirteen miles through the eastern end of the county over the crest of the Sierras ; - and other roads building -will add greatly to the development of this section. Nevada county is bounded north by Yuba and Si- erra counties, east by the State of Nevada, south by Placer, and west by Yuba. The population is 19,134; of whom 10,479 are native American and 8,655 are of foreign birth. There are several growing and prosper- ous towns in the county. Nevada City is the county- seat, and is a place of considerable population and im- portance. Grass valley, in the heart of the richest mining region in the world, is an incorporated city, with a population of 7,066. Little York, French Corral, and North San Juan are towns of some importance, all sur- rounded by rich mining districts. Sierra. — Adjoining Nevada county on the north, and perched high in the Sierras, bounded north by Plu- mas and Lassen, east by the State of Nevada, south by Nevada county, and wast by Yuba and Plumas, and embracing an area of 830 square miles, and with a population of 5,619, of whom 2,816 are of native American and 2,803 are of foreign birth, is the county of Sierra. The surface of the county is a succession of abrupt mountains and jagged peaks, some of which stand almost nine thousand feet above the sea. Numerous deep canons arid gulrlies, with dashing streams and deep forests, lend a wild but picturesque aspect to the coun- try. Small valleys of great beauty and fertility are MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 519 found, and graziiig, dairying, lumbering, fruit-growing, farming, and mining are all carried on successfully. Great quantities of gold have been extracted from the gravel beds and rich quartz veins of this county, and fortunes have been suddenly realized from rich deposits of gold. Sierra is still only second to Nevada county in her yield of gold, and mines of permanent value are being worked with great profit, and new and rich discoveries made almost daily. Snow falls to considerable depth throughout the eastern end of the county in winter, and frost is felt sometimes to a great extent; but toward the western part of the county but little snow falls, and cattle and sheep graze in the valleys throughout the entire year. Almost every variety of the hardier fruits grow well, and even the fig and orange have been grown , but none of the semi-tropical fruits do well. There are no towns of magnitude in Sierra county. The principal ones are Downieville, the county-seat, Forest City, Brandy City, Howland Flat, and Goodyear's Bar. Plumas. — North of i^'erra county, and with its whole area in the Sierra Ni .ada mountains^ and at an eleva- tion of from 4,000 to 7,000 feet above d;e level of the sea, is the county of Plumas: bounded north and east by Lassen, south by Sierra, and west by Butte and Te- hama. The area of this alpine county is 2,736 square miles — equal to two States of the size of Rhode Island and 124 square miles to spare. Plumas has a popula- tion of 4,490, divided between 2,414 native Ameri- cans and 2,075 foreigners, and several growing towns. Quincy, the county-seat, has a population of 640. La 520 THE GOLDEN STATE. Porte, Granville, Meadow Valley, and Taylorsville are all prosperous towns. The surface of the country is a succession of high moiuitains, rolling hills, deep cajfions, dashing streams, and large, fertile, and beautiful valleys of unsurpassed agricultural and grazing capacity. Vast areas of this county are covered with dense forests of valuable tim- ber, and placer and quartz mines of great richness are worked with profit. Snow falls upon the high moun- tain peaks to considerable depth in winter ; but frost is not so intense as in portions of the States of Virginia and Tennessee, and in the valleys and ravines cattle, horses, and sheep pasture throughout the whole year. Summer in this county is unlike summer in the valley counties. In Plumas, although the heat of summer is considerable, yet the native grasses and rich herbage of the beautiful valleys and of the hill-sides are fresh and green, and the eye can linger with increasing- admiration upon rich meadows, fields of corn, deep forests, blooming orchards, lofty mountains, and laughing streams, frolicking through precipitate gulches and turn- ing the busy wheels of the quartz-mill. Big Meadow valley, fifteen miles in length and four miles in breadth. Mountain Meadows, of neprly equal size, Indian valley, eleven miles in length by two in width, American val- ley, eleven miles in length i3y four miles in width, are jnsurpassed in beauty and fertility in California; here trarious branches of farming are prosecuted most suc- :essfully. Nearly all the hardier fruits — apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, and the grape — do well. Agri- culture, dairying, fruit-growing, lumbering, and mining are the resources of the county. MOUNTAIN COUNTIES. 521 Few counties in California possess greater natural resources than Plumas, and its future prosperity is in- sured by its rich agricultural and grazing lands. Lassen. — Directly north of Plumas, situated in the broken spurs of the Sierras, and east of the main chain of these mountains, and with a length from north to south along the line of the State of Nevada of more than 100 miles, and containing an area of 4,932 square miles — 182 square miles more than the State of Con- necticut — is Lassen county- bounded north by Siskiyou, east by the State of Nevada, south by Sierra and Plumas, and west by Plumas and Shasta. The county lies almost entirely east of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The general rliaracter of this sec- tion is essentially ' ferent from the counties west of that range. The ro: ng hills are covered with dense forests of pine and other tn s. Alkaline plains and sage brush, broad lakes, fertile : illcys, ai 1 high moun- tain peaks make up the physical feature ; of the country. In winter snow falls to considerabl* depth, but frost is never severe, and in the valleys and ravines cattle, sheep, and horses graze throughout the hole year. Summer is dry and warm, but not uiir dfortably hot. A great portion of the surface is covered with rich native grasses, green throughout the greater part of the year, affording wide and excellent pasture-ranges. Ag- riculture, grazing, and lumber are the resources of this county. In the valleys grain, vegetables, and the har- dier fruits all grow well, and dairying and lumbering are successfully prosecuted. As yet but little has been 522 THE GOLDEN STATE. done in mining, although mines of considerable impor- tance have been discovered. The population of Lassen county is 1,327; consisting of 1,178 native Americans and 149 foreigners. Susan- ville, the county-seat, has a population of 640. The other towns are all small. Siskiyou county, lying diiectly north of Lassen county, and extending to the Oregon line, and already described, is the last or most northern one of the tier of mountain counties, folloving the range of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and forming the great gold pro- ducing region of California. 1 «" •.'^•'uidiester •A 7^ A*' M> ■v^^ ;:: '^ . \:NNa CAtrPOHNIA , :::^-^-.^) ^ 1 c jo fjWER 0HW60N, JIEVADAftf. ^« ,w ,k^ kM-^- Jl-'\^'' W^-^-i .''-%> Pa dc fo of ar wl Si th m sq 'cli ar er P< sp ta or or in St W( ne th CO THE PACIFIC COAST. 523 CHAPTER XXXI. Pacific coast — Oregon — Nevada — Utah — Arizona — Idaho — ^Wash- ington Territory — British Columbia and Alaska. The vast region lying west of the Rocky mountains, designated the Pacific coasts in which is embraced Cali- fornia, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Idaho, a part of Montana, Washington Territory, British Columbia, and Alaska, contains an area equal to one-half of the whole territory of the Republic of America. The three States and, five Territories in this division belonging to the United States contain an area of 1,259,234 square miles, and British Columbia is estimated at 300,000 square miles in extent. Until a recent period this wide domain, with its genial ' climate, vast forests, great mountains, magnificent rivers and harbors, broad and fertile valleys, ana great min- eral wealth, was comparatively unknown, even to the people of America; and although new States have sprung up, cities been built, rivers navigated, and moun- tains pierced, and the track of the iron horse is found on mountain side and valley, and the seat of new, vig- orous, and happy communities find permanent lodgment in the rich soil of the new civilization of the Far West, yet but little is known of the country, even in the States east of the Rocky mountains, and thousands of well-informed persons in Europe and America have never heard of the divisions of this section, nor know their location nor their names. In preceding chapters, that portion c^ the Pacific coast more generally known abroad on account of the 524 THE GOLDEN STATE. great mineral wealth, agricultural productions, and matchless natural beauties developed and brought to light since the discovery of gold in 1848, has been pre- sented to the reader ; and now the following chapters will be devoted to briefly setting forth the physical feat- ures, climate, and vast resources and wonders of that wide area extending from the scorching sands of the Colorado to the stern heights of Oregon and the grim, ice-bound shores of northern Alaska. The area embraced within the succeeding chapters is entirely distinct in climate, soil, productions, animals, fish, and birds, from any section of the United States east of the Rocky mountains ; and, together with Cali- fornia, contain more of the precious metals than all the world besides so far as yet discovered, and its still un- explored and unoccupied regions afford the last remain- ing refuge for that large element of wanderers and adventurers always pushing ahead of civilization, seek- ' ing new discoveries, new homes, and new acquaintances beyond the sound of church-bell and the echo of the steam-whisde. The rancre for this class is still wide: the red man and the mountain deer have still uncertain tenure of the soil, and the stately elk and grim bear look out from their forest homes, tempting sport for the unerring rifle of the frontiersman ; and when the vast regions from the Colorado to Behring Strait cease to aflbrd attractions to the pioneer, man's condition will be so changed that the new civilization built upon the lonely wastes will afford him solace ; or other planets will be discovered in which the primitive forests and howling deserts will afford him an asylum. The marked physical features of that portion of America lying west of the Rocky mountains, so well THE PACIFIC COAST. 525 defined by its volcanic origin and great mineral wealth, as well as by its genial climate and rich soil, give it a distinct character from all that section of the country east of the great mountain division of the continent. Coal, iron, lead, copper, and petroleum in great abundance, and gold and silver in limited quantities, have been found east of the Rocky mountain chain ; but the precious metals of the continent lie west of this division, and are ''ound in and about the Sierra Nevada mountains — the great mother lead of the gold and silver of the American continent. Brazil, Chili, Peru, and the whole region of South and Central America, rich in gold and silver, and the Republic of Mexico, so famed for its mineral wealth* all go to the Sierra range for their metallic treasures. California, Arizona, Colorado, Nevada, Utah, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Washington Territory, and British Columbia — some on the east and some on the west of this range of mountains — all derive their gold and silver from the main chain, or from the arms and lat- erals of the Sierras, which, although passing under dif- ferent names in different sections, is but the same grand mineral chain, entering the continent at Patagonia, passes northward through the whole of South and Central America, Mexico, California, Oregon, British Columbia, and Alaska, until, in the distant west, it dips into the sea on the frozen shores of the Arctic ocean. The early history, acquisition, and settlement of the several sections of country described in the following chapters will be found fully set forth in preceding por- tions of this volume, so that what follows more imme- diately relates to the natural resources, development, and material growth of the country. I J 526 THE GOLDEN STATE, OREGON. History— Geography— Climate — Seasons — Forests — Minerals — Min- ing — Agriculture — Rivers — Mountains — Resources — Progress — Area — Population — Cities — Society. Oregon, as originally organized, embraced, besides the area of the present State, the area now contained within the Territories of Idaho and Washington ; and of the entire domain of the American republic, Oregon, as originally organized, was the only portion acquired by original discovery. The thirteen original colonies were taken from Great Britain by conquest; besides, Virginia claimed, under her original charter from England, an undefined tract, covering what was known as the "Northwestern Terri- tory," embracing the area of the present States of Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, and Wisconsin. This claim Virginia granted to the federal government in 1787, and it became a part of the aggregate territory of the republic. The whole territory of the United States east of the Mississippi river, except the State of Florida and a part of the State of Mississippi, was acquired by the United States with the thirteen original colonies. As compensation for spoliations upon American com- merce by Spain, the Spanish crown ceded to the United States, in 1819, the territory embraced in the State of Florida and the southern section of the State of Mis- sissippi. The purchase of Louisiana by the American government from the French, in 1803, placed the Americans in the possession of the vast region lying west of the Mississippi, and extending its boundaries to the Rocky mountains in the west, the Briiish posses- sions in the north, and the Gulf of Mexico on the south. ^' r <.. ;^. V! B -^^^t? Tc M( qu I by Fu th( As at wa mc an Th air set "Mk.. OV( en fre t\V( em up wh the SU| the val on inti by OR EG 01^. 527 Texas was acqulr.^d by annexation in 1845, and New Mexico and Colorado by conquest and treaty with Mexico after the war of 1 846-8 ; and Alaska was ac- quired by purchase from Russia in 1867. Oregon, discovered by Captain Gray, of Boston, in 1 792, was explored by authority of the United States, by Lewis and Clark, in 1804-5. I" 1808, the Misiouri Fur Company established a post on the head waters of the Snake or Lewis river; and, in 181 1, John Jacob Astor, of New York, founded the Pacific Fur Company, at Astoria, near the mouth of the river Columbia. This was the beginning of settlement in the country. At a more remote period, the Hudson Bay^Fur Company, an English incorporation, was established in Oregon. This latter company, by its factors and employes, held almost despotic sway over the native tribes and white setders until 1850. As early as 1830, emigrants were making their way over the Rocky mountains and into Oregon. The lib- eral inducement of six hundred and forty acres of land free to every head of a family and three hundred and twenty acres to each person twenty-one years of age emigrating to the Territory, offered by Congress, had, up to 1849, attracted considerable emigration; so that when the gold-fields of California, in 1849, attracted their thousands of miners, Oregon was prepared to supply flour, lumber, butter, eggs, cheese, and fruit to the gold-hunter who roamed over the then unfilled valleys of California. In 1843, Oregon was organized as a Territory, and on the 1 2th of February, 1859, was adi.iltted a State into the Union. The State is bounded on the south by the northern line of California and a part of the 528 THE GOLDEN STATE. State of Nevada, east by Idaho, north by the River Columbia, and west by the Pacific ocean. The south- ern line of Oregon, where it joins the State of Califor- nia, is in the fort}^'-second parallel of north latitude, and the northern line, at the mouth of the Columbia river, is in 46° 20' of north latitude. The area of Or gon is 95,274 square mlles^ — about 61,000,000 acres; and the population, in 1870, was 90,776, of whom 86,929 were white, 346 colored, 3,330 Chinese; and 79,323 were of native American birth and 11,600 of foreiirn birth. The physical features of Oregon are rugged hills covered with fir and oak trees ; lofty mountains clad in perpetual snow; vast and dense forests of fir and cedar; rolling hills of deep rich soil; extensive valleys of perpetual verdure and unsurpassed productiveness; numerous lakes, springs, and streams; majestic rivers, whose cascades, combined with a rich forest scener)', make Oregon one of the most picturesque quarters of the republic. The climate of Oregon is mild. Winter, which com- mences in December, casts its mantle of snow upon the elevated hills, and burnishes anew the high moun- tain peaks where summer heats are unknown. Throughout the forest and valley districts snow and ice are rarely seen; and, in the Wallamet and other principal agricultural valleys, it is perpetual summer. Once perhaps during each winter a few inches of snow will fall, but in most of cases it is swept away either by rain or the heat of the sun in one or two days; some- times it may linger for a week, but this is rare. Ice of a few inches in thickness is formed durinir each winter in some places, but It remains only for a few days; and, OREGON. 529 in the agricultural and grazing districts, sheep, horses, and cattle run at large and forage during the whole season. But there are periods in severe winters when snow and cold rains are disastrous to stock, and when the kindly hand of the farmer is necessary to supply them with food; but generally grass is green through- out the whole year, and all stock live at large in the open air. At Astoria, and along the v/hole Coast Range, rain falls in great abundance during the winter and spring; but in the interior, and particularly in the eastern por- tion of the State, the rainfall is not half so great as upon the Coast Range, and the winters, generally rainy, are warm and pleasant. Fields of growing grain covering the ground may be seen in the months of January and February, and vegetables grow throughout the whole year. In Ore- gon, as in California, it is not easy to draw the lines dividing the seasons. Winter is known only by the presence of a greater amount of rain and a little colder weather ; summer is mild, with showers of rain, blended well into the late spring season and early summer, and the excessive heats of the Atlantic States are unknown. The hottest days are not oppressive, owing to the coolness of the nights. Once in a great while the heat of summer will reach one hundred and ten degrees in the shade ; but, owing to the cool nights, the heat does not reach its greatest extent until early in the afternoon, lasting only three or four hours during the day. Oregon is as far north as the northern boundary of the State of Maine, but the degrees of cold in each are very different. In many parts of Oregon winter never reaches the freezing-point; while in Maine for six 34 530 THE GOLDEN STATE, months it is perpetual winter, where frost and piercing winds carry terror before them. The climate of Oregon is milder than the climate of either Virginia, Kentucky, or Tennessee; and at Astoria, the mouth of the Columbia river, the average tempera- ture is little different from that of San Francisco ; the annual temperature being in summer fifty-two and in winter forty-two degrees above zero. The wide agricultural and grazing ranges of Oregon are well supplied with copious streams from the moun- tain sides; and the water-power of the State, which might easily be employed in turning the wheels of me- chanical industry, is not surpassed in the United States. The Falls of the Wallamet, at Oregon City, are of great volume and force; and the majestic Columbia, having its source in the western slope of the Rocky mountains, far in the interior of British Columbia, where it is fed by the eternal snows of that region, coursing through British Columbia, Washington Ter- ritory, and for more than three hundred miles forming the northern boundary of Oregon, with its cascades and numerous falls, affords unlimited motive-power. The River Columbia, forming the boundary between Ore- gon and Washington Territory, may be classed among the most important navigable rivers of the world, and is surpassed in extent only by one river on the whole Pacific coast of America — the majestic Yukon, of Alaska, flowing for more than two thousand miles toward the sea. At the historic town of Astoria, in Oregon, whore the Columbia empties into the Pacific ocean, it is a broad and noble stream; and for one hundred and sixty miles — to the Cascades — affords a navigable course for HORSE-TAIL FALL, COLUMHIA KIVKR. VIEW UN THE COLUMBIA RIVER. OREGON, 531 I ships and large ocean-steamers. At this point a rail- road of six miles in length, on the Washington Terri- tiry side, and which was completed on the 21st of April, 1S63, and a road, a distance of thirteen miles, built in 1864, at the Dalles, lead to the waters above; where, for a distance of more than four hundred ad- ditional miles, the Columbia is navigated by steamers and sailing vessels ; Lewiston, on the Snake river, in Idah<\ being the head of navigation upon its southern branch. But continuing- the course of the main Colum- bia still beyond Wallula and the large lakes through which it passes through British America, it is navigable for light draught boats for one thousand miles from the ocean, the only obstacle bsing the cascades and the wide bar lying outside the mouth of the river, where the channel is shifting, the water shallow, and generally a heavy, rolling sea, rendering navigation perilous. The next river of magnitude in Oregon is the Wal- lamet, having its source in the eastern side of the Cas- cade ;ange of mountains, and running from cast to west a distance of about one hundred and seventy-five miles, passing through the centre of the extensive and fertile valley of the Wallamet, forming the falls at Oregon City, and emptying itself into the Columbia twelve miles below the city of Portland, the chief city of Ore- gon, and the head of navigation for ocean vessels on the Wallamet. From the mouth ot the Wallamet, twelve miles below Portland, to the latter city, ocean steamers run regu- larly; and from that city to the Oregon City falls, a dis- tance of twelve miles above Portland, steamers of light draught have navigated for the last twenty years, and above the falls, for the wliole length of the W^allamet, 532 THE GOLDEN STATE. small Steamers run; and for more than twenty-five years the waters of the Wallamet and Columbia have been the only highAvay and outlet of all the business and commerce of Oregon. Lincb of railroads now in operation and building throughout Oregon will connect that State with Cali- fornia on the south, Puget sound on the northwest, and, joining the gr^at overland road, will place the hereto- fore isolated State of Oregon in direct railroad com- munication with all parts of the Pacific coast, and open up a market for her rich products in all parts of the Atlantic States, the Pacific coast,.and Asia. In the northeastern portion of the State are several rivers of magnitude — the Des Chutes, John Days, Uma- tilla, Lewis or Snake river, being the principal ones. . The sea-coast of Oregon from its northern extremity to the California boundary is almost a straight line from north to south, without any prominent capes or head- lands. Numerous inlets and harbors indent the coast; but there is no river of any great magnitude south of the Columbia. The Rogue, Umpqua, Coquett, and Yaqulna are the chief rivers on the coast line. They are all navigable for a short distance for steamers of light draught, and settlement is fast making in the rich valleys by which they are surrounded. Oregon is celebrated for its scenery — stalwart mountains, dashing streams, and lofty forest trees. Mounts Jefferson and McLaughlin lift their venerable heads ten thousand feet above the sea, and they, with many others whose summits are per- petual snow, standing above the dense fir forests and green fields of summer, present a panorama of unsur- passed beauty; but towering above all, and looking OREGON. 533 down upon the beautiful valley of the Wallamet, with its meandering streams, tall forests, cultivated fields, blooming orchards, vast herds and flocks, active indus- try, and happy homes, is Mount Hood, nature's grand- est monument in the wilderness, lifting its head 1 1,218 feet above the sea level, and teaching the lesson of ages to the beholder. This sentinel of eternity, wrapped in his fleecy robes of ermine, looks from his throne of clouds upon the busy scenes of men, and out upon the crested main of the ocean, whose cooling breezes have fanned his silvery locks from the period of creation. What the temple of Mecca is to the good Mohamme- dan Mount Hood is to the Orcgonian. In the still night, when, by the light of a solitary star, he followed the lazy ox-team, or fled before the murderous toma- hawk of the red men, this monumental pile was his beacon and his guide; and now, when the fingers of time have wrought his locks with silver threads, and his step grows feeble, the venerable pioneer, leaning upon his staff, points to this hoary king of the West, and, with trembling accents, and a reverence akin to idolatry, tells to his children's children the eventful ::tory of his early life — his pilgrimage across the plains, his struggles and adventures in the forests of distant Oregon. There are three principal mountain chains in Oregon — the Cascade, Blue mountains, and the Coast Range ; the latter running from the California line to Astoria, and in many places leaving broad valleys lying between it and the ocean. This mountain chain is rugged, and great portions of it are covered with dense forests of fir and other trees. Innumerable streams course down both sides of this mountain range. Owing 534 THE GOLDEN STATE. to the good supply of water, abundance of grass, and the fogs and damps of summer from the ocean, the whole western slope of the Coast Range, with the belt of valleys between it and the Pacific, affords thfi best pas- ture region on the whole coast. Throughout the south- ern portion of this mountain chain rich mines of gold, silver, copper, and other minerals have been discovered, and are being worked with profit. A hundred miles inland from the Coast Range, and running parallel with it from north to south for the whole length of the State, is the Cascade range of mountains, a continuation of the Sierra Nevada mountains in California. In this chain there are many lofty mountains, including Mounts Jefferson and Hood, the latter being the northern ter- minus of the chain, and located twenty miles directly south of the Columbia river at the Cascades. It is between these two chains of mountains that the beau- tiful and fertile valley of the Wallamet is situated, in which the great agricultural wealth of Oregon is found. In the Cascade range, as in the Coast Range, rich de- posits of the precious and other metals are found, and many mines are being worked with good results. One hundred and fifty miles east of the Cascade mountains is another mountain chain, running parallel with the Cascades and forming the third grand moun- tain range of Oregon. This latter chain, known as the Blue mountains, although one hundred and fifty miles from the Cascade or Sierra range, is but a portion of the great Sierra chain, flung one hundred and fifty miles farther eastward ; and, like the Sierras, it throws its deposits of gold, silver, and other metals far upon either side, and holds in its granite vaults untold mil- lions of the precious metals. Mines of great richness n X r c V, ft 4 OREGON. 535 are bein^ worked in this section, and the yield of tl.e precious metals is steadily on the increase in Oregon: three million dollars of gold and silver being now pro- duced annually. The vast area of Oregon lying east of the Cascade mountains, embracing more than two-thirds of the area of the State, and known as Eastern Oregon, differs in its physical features and climate materially from the western portion of the State. The winters are compar- atively dry, and but a small amount of snow falls upon the mountains. Much of the country is covered by high table -lands, alkaline plains, sandy and volcanic deserts; but there are innum rable rich valleys, well watered and of the best quality of agricultural lands and wide pasture - ranges, abundantly supplied with native grasses, which make this section of the State valuable as a grazing region. Much of the mountains and rolling hills are covered with fir, pine, oak, and other timber, but generally of an inferior growth .vhen compared widi the same species west of die Cascade mountains. The southeastern part of Eastern Oregon has a great number of lakes, many of them of considerable size. Klamath lake, situated close to the Cascade mountains, and Lower Klamath lake form one continuous sheet of water of fifty miles in length. The southern part of the Lower Klamath is in California, and the remainder, including Klamath lake, in Oregon. The Klamath proper is thirty mil*^*^ in length and fourteen miles in width. There are several other lakes of almost as great proportions as this and great numbers of smaller ones, some of which are filled with fish, and some so impregnated with alkaline that no living thing is found 536 THE GOLDEN STATE, in their waters. Many of these lakes are the home of millions of wild fowl — geese, ducks, and crane. Throughout the northern portion of Eastern Oregon, the Des Chutes, John Day, Umatilla, and Snake rivers supply an abundance of pure water, and salmon and trout are found in great numbers. Oregon is famous for its wild game. Elk, deer, ante- lope, bear, geese, ducks, swan, quail, grouse, and crane are plenty ; and the Columbia and all the prinpipal streams abound in salmon and other fish ; and the fur- bearing animals — the beaver, otter, and mink — are still plenty: but the posts established by the American, Hudson Bay, and other fur companies have all been abandoned, and the fur trade of the State is smaller and conducted only by private individuals. Wild berries in great abundance and variety grow in Oregon ; and salt springs and other mineral waters are found. Mines of coal and iron are worked successfully ; and copper, lead, marble, and limestone are found in many sections of the State, and of superior quality. The forests of Oregon are unsurpassed in the world. Vast districts of country of rolling hills, mountains, and level lands are covered with forests of fir, tall and erect, without a limb, save a bunch upon the, top. These forest trees generally stand about two hundred feet in > height, and running from four to ten feet in diameter; but many of the trees grow to three hundred feet and more in height, and attain a diameter of from eight to twelve feet. A large timber-trade is carried on in Ore- gon with California and other parts of the Pacific coast ; and the supply that could be furnished by her forests is beyond calculation. Fir is the great staple timber of the country. Cedar, oak, ash, pine, and some other varie- 0/!EGOy. 537 ties grow in considerable quantity ; but, like California and all the Pacific coast territory, Oregon docs not pro- duce the fine white and yellow pine, nor the maple, birch, and beech of the Eastern States and Canada. In fact not a tree of these beautiful varieties of timber is to be found upon the whole Pacific coast ; still there are many varieties useful in ship and house building, and very beautiful for furniture and ornamental work. Agriculture is the chief industry of the people of Oregon. The mild winters, genial climate, rich soil, and summer showers always insure good crops. There never yet has been a failure of the wheat or other grain crop of the State ; and the average product per acre in wheat, oats, rye, and barley is a third greater than any of the States east of the Rocky mountains. Oregon and California averacre nineteen bushels each of wheat to the acre, while Virginia produces but nine bushels. South Carolina but seven, and Tennessee but eight and a-quarter. Wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, corn, flax, hemp, tobacco, hops, vegetables of all kinds, apples, pears, plums, cherries, and berries of almost every variety grow most abundantly: grapes, peaches, and some other varieties of fruits do not grow so well as they do in California, but in many localities grapes do well. The great staple product of Oregon is wheat. It was from the rich valleys of Oregon that the California miner in early days received his supply of bread, and to the present time, notwithstanding California exports largely of wheat and flour, Oregon flour is sold in the California markets. At Portland, and other towns in Oregon, ships load with wheat and flour for the markets of Europe, Asia, Australia, and the islands of the Pacific; )38 THE GOLDEN STATE. and ag-encles for the sale of Oregon flour are established in San Francisco. Apples in great quantities are shipped from Oregon to California and to all ports along the coast, and to British Ct)kimbia. The rapid growth of fruit trees in this State is remarkable : ten and twelve feet are often produced in a year, and so abundandy do trees bear at three and four years old that they are often crushed with the weight of the fruit. Horses, cattle, sheep, hogs, and poultry all thrive well in Oregon, and produce their species at a much earlier period than do their kind in any part of the Adantic side of the republic. There are in the State 75,000 horses, 4,500 mules, 102,000 catdc, 62,500 milch cows, 150,000 hogs, and 420,000 sheep; there are also 160 miles of railroad, and several roads in course of con- struction. The wide pasture -ranges, great variety 01 native grasses, and mild climate, make Oregon the finest grazing section of the country. In many portions of the State stock-raising is carried on to a great extent, and sheep-raising and wool-growing is receiving con- siderable attention; and besides supplying several local factories, large quantities of wool are shipped to Cali- fornia and to the Atlantic States. Many branches of manufacture are prosecuted in Oregon, and the whole business of the State has received a great stimulus from the railroads already constructed and now building in the Wallamet valley. Some idea of the amount of flour produced may be ascertained from the fact that there are eighty flouring mills in operation in the State, many of which produce one hundred and lifty barrels of fiour daily; and one, the MOUNT llool), UKEiiUN, IKUM IIIK UAI.I.KS. s( INK ON THE r.Ol.lMlllA KlVl.k. II ! ! i\ OR EG Off. 539 largest in the State, located at Salem, grinds two hun- dred barrels per day. One hundred and seventy saw-mills are employed in making lumber, and fifteen quartz-mills are in opera- tion in the mines. A linseed-oil mill is in successful operation at Salem. There are seven woollen factories in the State, one at each of the following places : Salem, Oregon City, Brownsville, Dalles, Ashland, Aurora, and Dallas. Numerous churches, schools, anti colleges attest the progress and refinement of the people. There are twenty-eight newspapers published in Oregon, ami eight libraries, (public and society,) with an aggregate of fourteen thousand volumes, which su[)ply in part the reading matter of the people of Hie State. On the discovery of gold in California, numbers of the people of Oregon went to the mines, many of whom realized fortunes and returned to their new homes in the beautiful valley of the Wallamet. The mass of the people of Oregon, however, never having come in contact with nor been affected b\ the excitement incident to gold -mining, have remained quiedy upon their farms and at their other employ- ments, and, as a consequence, have built them .(*lves up quiet and peaceful homes free from the excitement, extravagance, folly, and unrest incident to e..r]y life in California. The j)ioncer of Oregon had to contend long and bit- terly widi the relendess red man for the possession of the soil. A population of about thirt\ thousand sav- ages, consisting chiefly of the Walla Wallas, ShawtwcSy Chinook, and Flathead tribes, struggled long .. fiercely to maintain thf:ir ancient hunting-grouiuls ; but at last they gave way before inevitable fate, anti the last 540 THE GOLDEN STATE. representatives of the powerful tribes of distant Oregon arc fading away before the axe and ploughshare of the invading white man. The State of Oregon is divided into twenty-two counties, with the capital at Salem, forty miles by a direct line south of Portland, and on the east bank of the Wallamet river. There are several thriving towns in the State. Portland, with a population of 8,293, of whom 5,715 are native Americans and 2,578 are of foreign birth, is the chief city of Oregon. It is at the head of ocean-steamer navigation, on the west side of the Wallamet, and is substantially built with many elegant houses. Railroads traversing the Wallamet valley and other parts of the State enter this city, whose pros- perity is evidenced by its nicely paved streets, elegant stores, hotels, banks, schools, churches, and colleges. Many branches of mechanical industry are prosecuted in this city, which is a port of entry of considerable commercial importance, and for its size is one of the most thriving and active cities in the United States. Altogether, the genial climate, natural resources, and large areas of good land yet attainable from the gov- ernment and from occupants at rcuisonable prices, make Oregon one of the most desirable quarters of the republic for the emigrant in search of a home. The new-comer will find, besides the great resources and inviting climate, well-ordered society, schools, churches, and colleges, active and progressive men and women, with big, generous hearts and willing . ,inJs, and the foundations of a great and prosperous State well established. e ( I a 1 o a II Ii a • u P w a o b n '1 C s o NEVADA, 541 CHAPTER XXXII. NEVADA. Acquisition of— Area — Population— Geography — ^fountains — Val- leys — I -akes — Rivers — Forests — Soil — Seasons — Cliuuile — M incs — Mining — Minerals — Counties — Cities — Progress — Schools — Newspapers — Libraries — Future prospects. Nevada, known as the Silver State on account of its extensive silver-mines, lies directly east of the State of California, from which it is separated in its division line by the crest of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The area now forming this State was ori«;inally a part of the Territory of California, and more recently of a portion of the district embraced within the Territory of Utah, and was acquired by die United States from the Repub- lic of Mexico, by the ace uisition of California, in 1846. In 1861, a territorial government was established by act of Congress, and, in 1864, it was admitt-irl a State in the Union, with a very small poinilation. The area of Nevada is 81,531 s([iiarc miles, and its population, according to die federal census of 1870, was 42,491, of whom 38,959 were white, 357 colored, and 3,152 Chinese. Of die whole population, almost one-half were of foreign birth, there being 23,690 native born and 18,801 foreigners. Nevatla is bounded on its extreme southeastern cor- ner by the river Colorado, which separates it from the Territory of Arizona. Utah forms die eastern line and Oregon the northern. On the v\-est, the crest of the Siernis forms the; lint; between this State and the State of California. The beautiful Lake Talioe, seven thou- CA2 THE GOLDEN STATE. sand feet high, in the top of the Sierras, is partly in Ntvada and partly in California; and in this region, as in many other parts of the State, the scenery is mag- nificent, abounding in rugged mountain peaks capped with snow, dense forests, and beautiful lakes. East of the Sierras the climate is entirely different from that of California, immediately west of them. The climate of Nevada is colder in winter and generally with less rainfall than the former. Snow covers all the high mountain ranges and hills, and even for a brief period reaches the valleys; but generally throughout the rolling hills, pasture ranges, and agricultural sec- tions snow falls but little, and cattle and horses graze at large throughout the entire winter, and in many of the valleys snow is never seen. The climate of the State is much milder than that of either of the States of Virginia or Tennessee. The surface of the country is a succession of rugged mountains, broad alkaline flats, rolling, gravelly ridges, and sandy deserts, interspersed with small fertile valleys, rich river bottoms, and ravines. From the mountain ridges pourdown dashing streams, soon, however, lost in the flats below, where they bury tliemselves in the earth, thus leaving many rich valleys entirely destitute of running streams, and lending an aspect of desolation and barrenness to large areas of productive land. In this State is presented the singu- lar phenomenon of the creeks and rivers pouring into caverns in the earth, running many miles under ground, and rising to the surface again; but only to again dip into the ground, wliere their course is lost sight of for- ever. The principal rivers of Nevada are the Humboldt, Truckee, Carson, and Walker. HumlKjUlt river after la Si m( of NFA'ADA. 543 passings for three luindrcd and fifty miles from cast to west, empties into Lake Humljoldt, in a deep valley in the western portion of the State. Carson and Walker rivers, having their source in the eastern side of the Sierras, pour their floods into Carson an;l Walker lakes, and, like the Humboldt, are lost to view forever. Truckce river has its source in the waters of t^ie beau- tiful Lake Tahoe, situated upon the crest of the Sierras. Tahoe is twenty-one miles in lenoth, twelve miles in width, and elevated 6,250 feet above the sea level, and forms a part of the boundary between California and Nevada. From this lake the Truckee pours in a mijrluy torrent, for the first few miles passing through deep cartons, gulches, and ravines, forming rapids and cascades of great power and beauty. The river in its course runs from Lake Tahoe in a northeasterly direction for a dis- tance of more than eighty miles, and until it reaches Pyramid lake, on the eastern slope of the Sierras. This charming lake is thirty-five miles in length, ten miles in width, and elevated 3,940 feet above the waters of the Pacific ocean. Thus the waters of Lake Tahoe empty into P)Tamid lake, but Pyramid lake, like Humboldt, Carsoi, Walker, and all the other lakes in the State, has no visible oudet, but pours the mighty tide of the Truckee, together with its own waters, into the bowels of the earth, which, with the waters of all the rivers and lakes of the State of Nevada, must pass under the Sierras, or to the Colorado river — hundreds of miles — before a final outlet is found in the Pacific ocean. On the eastern slope of the Sierras, and some other mountain ranges in Nevada, there are heavy growths of timber, but g(^nerally the State is but poorly wooded ; I 544 THE GOLDEN STATE. and the plains and valleys are destitute of trees, except where fringes of cotton-wood or willows skirt the rivers and streams. In the mountains wild game is abundant, and the Truckec and other rivers abound with trout. The native tribes of Indians are of a very low order, and, althouq;h treacherous and cruel, are not warlike, and generalFy give but little trouble to the whites. Agriculture is carried on to considerable extent, and there are large areas of tillable land which might be brought into a high state of cultivation by carrying water in ditches from the mountains. There are wide pasture- ranges in the State well adapted to cattle and sheep ; and large herds of horned cattle graze at large during the whole winter. The material growth of Nevada has been very great during the past ten years ; and the State may be con- sidered as in a prosperous and progressive condition. At the end of 1870, the population of Nevada was 42,491 ; and her taxable property, independent of mines, was $32,524,600, and her working mines were valued at 5*^30,000,000 — an aggregate of more than $62,000,000, or about $1,500 for each inhabitant in the State. Nevada stands the highest of all the States in the Union in the average production of wheat; and equal with California and Oregon, the highest average producing States in the Union, in barley, oats, rye, and potatoes. California and Oregon yield nineteen bushels of wheat to the acre ; while Nevada produces twenty- three. Illinois yields twelve bushels, Indiana eleven, and Tennessee and Virginia each but eight bushels to the acre, on an average. t ^'b^ fN ^^> %> W IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // C^r 1.0 I.I ■- IIIIM |5 iJ illM 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 4 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIM STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 f^id

> (Q C =»* 3 CD 33 < >• ss o 5 I c o ■I MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 575 Joseph was, by special revelation, proclaimed "Elect Lady and Dauf;hter of God." Soon acquisitions to the " revealed truth" from all aides poured in, and zealous preachers were sent among the Gentiles and Lamanites to tell them of the fulfilment of the prophecy. At first, the " doctrines" of the church were not very definite ; any views suited to attract superstitious, sim- ple-minded persons, seeking for "signs," "wonders," and "revelations" were acceptable. The "destruction of the world" was very effective in drawing timid women and semi-idiotic men into the circle of the " saints." Joseph Smith soon assumed absolute control of the Mormon church, not alone from the fact that he had been "inspired by God to reveal the truth," but that he was endowed with the spirit of prophecy, and by "revelation" was to direct the spiritual and temporal affairs of " his people." So step by step during the life of Smith, and through the reign of Brigham Young, the affairs of the Mormon church and people have been directed by " revelation." During the latter part of 1830 and the early part of 1 83 1, nearly "11 the saints had departed from New York State and settled at Kirtland, Ohio, proselyting on their journey west. In June, 1 831, Joseph Smith, with a few chosen elders, A^ere on the march to "Zion, which should never be moved," as Joseph had a revelation that Jackson county, Missouri, had been "solemnly dedicated to the Lord and His saints," and here they began to establish themselves. The early convercs, including the Smiths and fi lends, were " dispensing the gospel," while Joseph 576 THE GOLDEN STATE. Smith and Sidney Rigdon opened a bank, which soon failed. Among other active missionaries in the field was Samuel H. Smith, the brother of Joseph, whose ministrations '• brought to the fold" the grandest apostle of them all in the person of Brigham Young, " Prophet, Priest, Seer, Revealer in all the world ; first President and Trustee-in-trust of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints," and late Governor of the Territory of Utah ; who, with his four brothers and six sisters, all embraced the new r liglon. The State of Vermont, the birthplace of Joseph Smith, also produced the great polygamist Brigham Young, who was born at Whittingham, Windham county, in that State, on the ist of June, 1801. Brig- ham, who was raised on a farm, had at an early age learned the painting and glazing business, which he fol- lowed yntil the rich field of Mormonism opened for his splendid talents as a ruler. With the growth of Mormonism, its leaders became bold and defiant, proclaiming themselves kings and rulers, before whom all others must bow, and that eventually they would drive all " disbelievers " out of the country. So violent and intemperat'^ had become the leaders of the new religion, and so obnoxious had they rendered themselves to the .people of Missouri, that, in the sum- mer of 1833, the inhabitants assembled at Independ- ence, the head-quarters of the Mormons, destroyed their newspaper ofifice, whipped, tarred and feathered some of the leaders, and after serious conflirts, in which some of the populace were slain ir. a hanr-to- hand conflict, the Mormons retreated, evacuated jack- son county, and headed west ; and, on the nights of MORMOmSM AND THE MORMONS. 577 November 4 and 5, crossed the Missouri river into Clay county. After a brief sojourn at Liberty, Clay county, Missouri, in May, 1836, on warning of the people "to leave," they evacuated Clay county, and located in the counties of Davis, Carroll, and Caldwell. The organization at Kirtland, Ohio, was still maintained. Joseph had marched with an army into Missouri to avenge the wrongs of his people, but the cholera over- took the prophet and his soldiers, and drove them from the field. Meantime Smith had finished an "inspired translation " of the Old Testament ; Brigham had re- ceived the "gift of tonguQS," and he and Heber C. Kimball, and others of "the twelve apostles," in 1835, Started from Kirtland on their missionar) labors, adopt- ing the name of " Latter-day Saints," as the world was soon to be destroyed, and they would be the last saints of earth. Continuous conflicts between the saints and people of Missouri kept several counties of the State in war, and the disorders of dissenting saints kept the leaders in endless confusion and dread. As early as June, foreign missions were organized, and Orson Hyde, H, C. Kimball, and W. ilichards s^nt to Eng- land, where many converts were made. The seat of Mormonism was in confusion. Multi- plied crimes caused Governor Boggs to issue an order of banishment of the saints out of the State, "even if it was necessary to exterminate them." Smith and Rigdon were flying from the angry creditors of their decayed bank, and Brigham Young, for participation in evils, was heading for Quincy, Illinois. Armed bands of Mormons were in the field, and the State militia of Missouri, under the call of the governor, had met and defeated the saints, and after their leaders had been 37 578 THE GOLDEN STATE. V r held to trial " for treason, murder, robbery, arson, and larceny," the whole Mormon community in Missouri, numbering more than twelve thousand, now headed for Illinois, and in January, 1839, setded at Quincy, Adams county, and c h^r parts of the State. By this time the "persecutions .he Mormons gained them in'icli sympathy as they .andered west, and, either through negligence or the desire of the people of Missouri to be relieved as easily as possible of the Mormon pris- oners. Smith and his associates escaped from their guards, and headed for Illinois ; and he and his people, , on the I ith of June, 1839, Jaid the foundations of their famous city of Nauvoo, in Hancock county, wherein great activity and zeal were manifested. A thriving city rose as if by magic, missionaries issued in every direction, and Brigham Young, as "president of the twelve apostles," had, in April, 1840, arrived in England, where great success attended the missionary efforts of "Latter-day Saints," who, early in the year 1841, led to their " Zion" in the wilderness nearly eight hundred English converts to the "faith." On October 3, 1840, the foundations of the great temple, which Joseph had spiritual command to erect, were laid, and Nauvoo attained an important position, and the " prophet" and his dis iples assumed spiritual and temporal supervision of all with whom they came in contact, proclaiming the speedy conversion of the whole world to the " revealed religion of Mormon." The new religion and its followers, however, were doomed to further "persecution for the Lord's sake." The liberties of the saints had drawn to their circle hundreds of designing, vicious, and cunning rascals, who, playing upon the weak minds of the enthusiastic MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 579 id :le -Is, tic converts, led them into all manner of excesses and crimes against the "Gentiles," who finally, dreading, the political influence of the sect, and the power of the "Nauvoo legion," rose and drove them from the land. The prophet had, in 1844, nominated himself for the Presidency of the United States, and his people had placed him as lieutenant-general at the head of the " Nauvoo legion." Courts and all local authority were controlled by the Mormons, and a political and social war waged against the "Gentiles;" new orders of priestly functions and nobility were established, ending in the crowning and anointing of Joseph as king and high priest, and claiming his direct descent from Joseph, the son of Jacob. Plurality of wives had gradually crept into the order at Nauvoo, and Joseph and his elders reaped a rich harvest of spiritual wives from the fairest doves of their flocks. The final end of the prophet of the " revealed truth" was at hand. A number of Mormons, including Smith, had, on the 24th of June, 1844, been arrested, and were held in jail at Carthage, near Nauvoo. Soon, however, all except Joseph Smith and his brother, Hyrum, were released, but their offences appearing great they were held in custody. The political and military power of the Mormons had now become so great in the city of Nauvoo and vicinity, and their crimes so appalling, that the people had determined to take the law into their own hands, and avenge themselves. The most effective way to accomplish this, and to insure future security, they thought, was to strike at the fountain-head ; so the life of the prophet must atone the wrongs of his people. A band of citizens, disguised and armed, had entered 58o THE GOLDEN STATE'. into a conspiracy with the guard, so that easy access was had to the jail. About six o'clock on the morning of the 27th of June, 1844, this band forced open the prison doors, shot and killed Hyrum Smith instantly. Joseph, who was armed with a pistol, bravely defended himself, ascended to the upper part of the jail, and sprang from the window to the ground, receiving stun- ning injuries, and in his helpless condition was brutally murdered by being riddled by the balls from the guns of his assassins. Thus fell the great American prophet at the early age of thirty-nine years, full of spiritual and muscular strength, fair and comely, erect in his six feet of manly beauty — the proud commander of his sect and the admired of his '* sisters in the Lord." The death of Joseph spread a pall of mourning over Nauvoo : the wives and people of the " founder of the faith" joined in sending lamentations to he?ven for the slain king, upon whose head they placed the martyr's crown dyed in the blood of sacrifice. On the death of tlie prophet dissensions sprang up among his people, and the church and saints looked for " signs" of a leader. Joseph had a son named after himself, but it was said by the prophet that " the man was not born v/ho was to lead this people." Many of the "saints" had revelations of special mis- sions and authority to succeed Joseph, but to no pur- pose. Brigham Young, wio was at the head of the twelve apostles, at once took a leading position, and on the 15th of August, 1844, an "encyclical letter to all the saints in the world" was issued by himself and his apostles,, On the 7th of October, a general council of MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 58 1 the Mormons at Nauvoo decided to leave the govern- ment of the " church" with the " colleee of the twelve apostles," at the head of which was Brigham Young. From this period dates the rule of the man who built up Nauvoo until it spread over an area of six square miles, with its magnificent temple, costing over a million dollars, and xtsf/teen tJionsand saints. Continued conflicts between the Mormons and the Gentiles, with charges of murder, arson, counterfeiting, and other crimes, aroused the people of Illinois ; and, warned by an approaching general uprising to exter- minate them, the whole Mormon people commenced the evacuation of their city and temple, and, bidding adieu to Nauvoo, in the winter of 1845-6, headed by Brigham Young and his fellow-apostles, turned their faces toward the great desert, in the direction of the setting sun. Fifteen thousand men, women, and children, with their sluggish ox-teams, numbering many thou- sands, plunged into the dead of winter, experiencing untold miseries, privations, nnd death, wended their tedious journey over the precipitous mountains and arid plains, leaving the new-made graves of their fellows to mark their sad pilgrimage beyond the reach of per- secution. The Mormon leaders had no settled views of a per- manent location, further than that in some quarter of the Pacific coast they might find refuge from Gentile Intolerance. Oregon, Vancouver island, the Sandwich islands, and the Spanish Territory of California were all looked to as suitable fields of retreat ; and, in the hope of reaching the latter Territory, five hundred Mormons joined the expedition of General Kearney, which left Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri, in June, 582 THE GOLDEN STATE. \. > 1846, marching by way of Santa Fe, New Mexico, and the Gila, until it reached the coast of California. Many of these people finally settled in California ; and on the discovery of gold, in 1 848, abandoned San Francisco and the lower country and went to the mines. In 1845, ^"^ while California was yet a Spanish colony, an expedition of saints was fitted out, and sailed in due time from the city of New York on board the ship Brooklyn. She made the voyage safely round Cape Horn, and first visited the Sandwich islands ; and finally, on the 31st of July, 1846, (twenty-four days after Commodore Sloat had hoisted the American flag over California,) entered the Bay of San Francisco, where the Mormons pitched their tents on the adjacent sand-hills, and, under the leadership of Samuel Bran- nan, a shrewd Maine Yankee, maintained an organiza- tion until the discovery of gold, in 1848; when the consequent fever infesting the whole camp, the saints, leader and all, started for the mines. This broke up the design of permanent settlement on the Pacific shores, west of the Sierras. During this period, the main body of the Mormons had collected near Omaha, where,- under the executive talent of their new leader, they had consolidated their strength, and the people unanimously proclaimed shat " the mantle of the prophet Joseph had fallen on the seer and revelator, Brigham Young." The object of the saints now was to reach the Pacific and join their brethren gone before them by sea. Presi- dent Young accordingly, at the head of the pioneer pil- grims, consisting of one hundred and forty-three men, with seventy wagons, left Omaha, on the 14th of April, 1847; ^^^> after a three montlis journey ' .:ross the MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 583 trackless desert, on the 24Lh of July following, entered the valley of Great Salt lake. Here the saints pitched their tents, fully believing that in this most secluded and unfrequented region of the continent they might live unmolested for centuries. But the discovery of gold in California, in 1848, led the people of the East across the plains in vast numbers ; and the trail of the pioneer saints to their Jordan and Zion in the desert was made the highway of the vast emigrant trains and bands of gold-hunters, and Salt lake became the best known section of America west of the Missouri. The acquisition of California brought the Territory of Utah, then a part of California, under the dominion of the United States; a fact which the saints have been loath to learn, as from their first setdement they have had absolute social, religious, and political control of the country, in utter defiance of federal laws and the national constitution. As early as the 5th of March, 1849, ^^ Mormon leaders assumed sovereign dominion over their "Zion," by the meeting of a convention at Salt Lake City "of all the citizens of that portion of Upper California lying east of the Sierra Nevada mountain.^ 'c> take into consideration the propriety of organizing a terri- torial or State government." The convention estab- lished the " free and independent State of Dcseret" elected State officers, and finally applied to Congress for admission as a State into the Union. Congress declined, however, to admit the new State; but, on September 9, 1850, organized the Territory of Utah, President Fillmore appointing Brigham Young gov- ernor. From that period forward national authority has been completely ignored by the Mormons, until the 584 THE GOLDEN STATE, years 187 1-2, when the federal territorial officers, foi the first time in the history of the Territory, seemed to comprehend that Utah was not a foreign nation, but was subject to the authority and laws of the United States. During the rebellion of 1861-5, active measures were adopted by the Mormon leaders, looking to the separation of Utah from the jurisdiction of the United States, and the establishing of an independent gov- ernment; while not a man, dollar, nor sign of in- terest or sympathy was offered to the national gov- ernment. Repeated efforts, from time to time, have been made to induce the Federal Congress to admit Utah as a State, the last time being on the iSth of March, 1872, when an election was^held, a constitution adopted. United States Senators elected, and the "State of Deseret " once more sought in vain admission into the Union. At the election in March, 1872, all the women in the Territory over twenty-one years of age, regardless of birthplace or nationality, voted. The Gentile population being so small a minority, did not offer any opposition, nor vote at this election. Brigham Young, who had ruled as a despot at the head of the Mormon church, had, by federal appoint- ment, held the office of territorial governor from 1850 until the early part of 1858, when he was succeeded by Governor Gumming, who, with Colonel Albert Sidney Johnston, (late of the Confederate army,) led James Buchanan's " army of invasion " into Utah to quell the " Mormon rebellion," which had driven the federal officers from the Territory, and, under the lead- ership of Governor Brigham Young, had assumed alarming proportions ; and drew from the Mormon ti CJ MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 585 d n chief his famous edict, addressed to the commander of the federal forces sent into the Territory to enforce order; Governor's Office, Utah Territory, Great Salt Lake City, September 2(), 1857. Sir: By reference to the act of Congress passed September 9, 1850, organizing the Territory of Utah, published in a copy of the Laws of Utah, herewith, p. 146, chap. 7, you will find the following : Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That the executive power in and over said Territory of Utah shall be ^ sted in a governor, who shall hold his office for four years, and until his successor shall be appointed and qualified, unless sooner removed by the President of the United States. The governor shall reside within said Territory, shall be commander-in-chief of the militia thereof, &c., &c. I am still the Governor, and Superintendent of Indian Affairs for this Territory, no successor having been appointed and qualified, as provided by law, nor have I been removed by the President of the United States. By virtue of the authority thus vested in me, I have issued and forwarded you a copy of my proclamation forbidding the entrance of armed forces into this Territory. This you have disregarded. I now further direct that you retire forthwith from the Territory by the same route you entered. Should you deem this impracticable, and prefer to remain until spring in the vicinity of your present encampment, Black's Fork or Green river, you can do so in peace, and urgnolested, on condition that you deposit your arms and ammunition with Lewis Robinson, Quarter-master General of the Territory, and leave in the spring as soon as the condition of the roads will permit you to march. And should you fall short of pro- visions, they can be furnished you by making the proper application therefor. General D. H. "^ells will forward this, and receive any communi- cation you may have to make. Very respectfully, Brigham Young, Governor, and Superintendent of Indian Affairs, Utah Territory, To the Officer commanding the Forces Now invading Utah Territory. 0^ 586 THE 7 OLDEN STATE. I I The army still marched toward the city of the saints, causing- a general " scare," and a stampede of one-half of the Mormon population toward the Colorado and Mexico. Finally, "peace commissioners" were ap- pointed, the "war" ended, and the Mormons returned to their city. Passing through various phases or social local dis- turbance of church and State, and continuously op- posing the authority of the national government, the Mormons have found themselves surrounded by an increasing population from all quarters of the republic, induced by recent railroad communication, curiosity, and the development of rich silver aiid other mines in ;he Territory. Until within a recent period the tem- poral and spiritual power of the American prophet and his people are fast running below zero ; and eventually must be frozen out in the pure atmosphere that chills concubinage and the incestuous pollutions of marriage to whole families. The Mormon leaders, dreading the influx of Gentiles, and the consequent danger to their long sway of politi- cal p'^^wer, in 1870, resorted to the expedient of female suffrage ; and, by territorial enactment, at a single dash, added fijtcen thoasajid to the Mormon " cause." By this law, every woman in the Territory, over twenty- one years of age, and all under that age. if married, vote at all elections. No naturalization laws of the nation are applied to those women, ttyee-quarters of whom are ignorant, superstitious foreigners. This is the only quarter of the republic enjoying (.-*) female suffrage ; and the spectacle of the polygamists on elec- tion day opening the doors of their harems and marcii- ing their wives to die polls is a strange contradiction Ih' MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 537 and perversion of liberty. Brigham caste seventeen votes — his sixteen living wivss and his own, to say nothing of the control over his ''interesting family y In 1852, to check the "licentious cohabitation" of anti-Mormons and the "lewd men of California," who sorhetimes found their way to the harems of the saints, a law was enacted by the territorial Legislature of Utah, witii severe pains and penalties for " lewd and lascivious cohabitation." These statutes have now been made to recoil against those who enacted them, suits having been commenced before the United States ter- ritorial judges by oppressed Mormt)n women against their truant lords, for over-indulgence in "wives ;" and even Brigham, who, as Governor of the Territory, signed the law to keep the unrighteous feet of the invading Gentile from his domicile, found himself indicted by a grand jury and held in bonds to appear for trial, for the crime of "lezvd and lascivious cohabitation." Doubtless the prophet thought this a new " revelation." The Gentiles (all tiiose who are not Mormons) in the Territory hold that all marriages with Mormons and their women are void, except with their first living wife ; while the Mormons hold that th^y are supported by the Christians' Bible itself in polygamy ; that marriage is a sacrament, the regulation of which is solely with the "church;" that they can have as many wives as they please, when their " religion" directs them ; that the church alone can marry a7id divorce : and that all acts of courts in these matters are usurpations, tyrannical and void. Trouble continued to accumulate with die saints in 1 870- 1. The mystic circle of the "holy twelve apostles" had been broken by the rude hand of the 588 THE GOLDEN STATE. \ United States territorial marshal ; Brigham and apostle Daniel H. V/ells had been arrested and held in bonds for trial for " raising a family," under indictments for lasciviousness ; and the murderous Bill Hickman came forth from his mountain retreat, " unbosomed" himself to the federal territorial officers, disclosing the partic- ipation of Brigham Young and his saints in the most revolting crimes and murders, revealing a sickening record of individual assassinations, and ending with the avowal that the direct orders of Brigham Young pre- ceded almost every murder of the terrible list of slain in Utah ; and that the Mountain Meadows massacre, where one hundred and thirty-two innocent immigrants — men, women, and children — were cruelly butchered in 1858, in Southern Utah, was by the authority of Young and his " apostles." On these confessions, and other charges of crime by numerous witnesses, Brig- ham Young, Daniel H. Wells, Orson Hyde, Hosea Stout, and William Kimball, all saints, were accused. Some were arrested, while others fled, and Brigham, who had been held in heavy bonds to appear in court on charges of murder, fled to Southern Utah, but finally returned to Salt Lake City, where he was arrested early in 1872, and cast into prison to iwait his trial. The case of Young and his associates was, on appeal upon the irregularity and want of jurisdiction' of the federal tcirritorial court, carried to the Supreme Court of the United States, which held that the manner of drawing juries by the territorial courts from September 20, 1870, to April, 1872, was illegal. By this decision on the 25th of April, 1872, Brigham Young and four hundred other prisoners, including twenty-four chaiged MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 589 lit rt of ler )n lur ed with murder, were released. This event was the signal for new vows, and faith in the Divine interposition to release his saints and humiliate their persecutors. At the great annual conference held at Salt Lake City at this period more than twelve thousand disciples swelled the chorus in the great tabernacle, proclaiming the vic- tory of God and his saints, and giving new inspiration to the elders and bishops, a new batch of whom were despatched "with glad tidings" to the people of Europe. The social practices and religious dogmas of the Mormons are almost as romantic singular, and ridicu- lous as the crimes of which they are accused are atro- cious and appalling. They claim to be Christians, but assert that all other Christian organizations have de- parted from the "true doctrine," having scarcely grace enough to become good Mor. /is, while the disciples of Joseph the prophet shall eventually, by the grace of God, subdue the whole races of men, Icdd them to sal- vation, and eventually rule over them as gods and kings in the land of their inheritance in the skies. The Bible they hold as the foundation of all their thith, giving it a literal interpretation; but that the Book of Mormon, translated from the golden plates by their prophet, is an infallible and indispensable key to ^' mysteries of revelation and the kingdom of hea\cn. Souls, they say, existed from all time, and in invisible bodies float in vacancy, are caught by angels, and finally, from the cradled of the harems of the saints, are sent out in tangible form as live Mormons to fulfil the Scriptures by multiplication and conversion of the " heathen," which is the highest mission of the saints and the especial business of the Mormon women; for if, by missionary labors, a Mormon convert a dozen 'I 590 THE GOLDEN STATE, I; il I I il i Gentiles, how much "glory must su'^-ound his head In the presence of his many wives and his many children." Surely here is a "gathering of spirits." In the eternity they hold there are many worlds and many gods, and that each world has a head god, and a son next in command, but that over all is one chief, who is the father of all the little gods ; and that he, too, "is the father of Jesus ClTrist in the only way known in nature, just as John Smith, senior, is the father of John Smith, junior." The theory of creation and of the Garden of Eden, as well as Darwin's " Descent of Man," giving the origin of our ancestors in oysters, slugs, and apes, are all rejected by the saints, who claim that " when the earth was prepared, there came from an upper world a son of God, with his beloved spouse, and thus a colony from heaven, it may be from the sun, was transplanted on our soil." This theory is synonymous with the view recently promulgated by the learned professor in Edin- burgh, Scotland, who declares that there are no germs of human creative life on our globe, and that, after " careful study of the subject of creation and the race," he concludes that our ancestors came from some of the globes above us, and made their terrestrial descent upon an areolite. It is not mentioned whether other emi- grants are to follow, or whether the sudden contact of the metal aerrl horse wit'i the earth gave the riders a vivid and unpleasant realizatioilJfof term firma. Doubt- less the Mormon theory is as correct as any other ver- sion of this subject, and any of the others are as correct as that of the Mormon view. Mormons and the few others who may reach heaven are to appear "in the flesh," and, surrounded by their z J / c s i t V a n li b a si SI MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. J^I wives and children, sing perpetually to their prophet. •Baptism by immersion is a sacrament. Brigham him- self has been twice in the " plunge," and the sins of all converts are floated on the " waters of regeneration ;" and upon the appearance of an influx of Gentile immi- grants, lascivious men from California, or grasshoppers, all saints that are considered " shaky " get a dip. The composition and order of the "godhead" are Eloheim, Jehovah, Adam, Christ, and Joseph Smith. From this "head centre" issue the inspirational light that led the saints from New York to Nauvoo, and thence to the " promised land" in the vicinity of Great Salt lake. A plentiful supply of prophecy, power nf the Holy Ghost, inspiration, gospels, signs, wonders, mystic pozuers, visions, faith, atonement, regeneration, spirits, angels, saints, revelations, testimony, nealing by laying on of hands, anointments, holy oils, patriarchs, remissions, bish ops, teachers, evangelists, purgations, ascensions, descen- sions, dreams, callings, priesthoods, sacraments, orders, progressio7ts, gifts of to7igues, consecrations, and miracles are woven through the doctrines of the Mormon faith to render it palatable to the most visionary of mortals, while the practical workings of polygamy have strong attractions for the more materialistic. Christ, the Mor- mons say, was but a man as others, having in his brief lifetime set his followers the injunction of midtiplication by having five wives himself, among whom were Mary and Martha. Polygamy at first was not a part of the Mormon faith. Joseph did not find any revelation of its neces- sity on the golden plates, and in th.^ Book of Mormon such a practice is fiercely denounced. In the second 592 THE GOLDEN STATE. chapter of the work is found a warning to the Nephites: • " But the word of God burdens me because of your grosser crimes. For this people begin to wax in iniquity ; they understand not the Scriptures, for they seek to excuse themselves in committing whore- doms because of the things that were written concerning David and Solomon, his son. They, truly, had many wives and concubines, which thing was abominable before me, saith the Lor^. Wherefore, hearken unto the word of the Lord, for there shall not any man among you have save it be one wife, and concubines he shall have, none; for I, the Lord God, delighteth in the chastity of woman." With the Mormons, as with other mortals, even pro- phecies and revelations are controlled or altered by circumstances; so, while at Nauvoo, the increase of beautiful young women so Inspired Joseph, Brighamv and other saints, that a new revelation was deemed necessary. The prophet sought it and it came, fully denying the injunction in the Book of Mormon^ and going back to the harems of " the servants of the Lord" for a justification of concubinage and incest. Joseph received the «^z£/ revelation at Nauvoo, on the 12 th of July, 1 843 ; and in the Deseret News extra,y of the 1 4th of September, 1852, at Salt Lake City, it was first pub- licly proclaimed to the " people ;" the bishops and elders having first selected the fairest of their flocks for their own use. The " revelation" in part reads : "Verily, thus saith the Lord unto you^ my servant Joseph, that inasmuch as you have inquired at my hands to know wherein I, the Lord, justified my servants, Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, as also Moses, David, and Solomon, my servants, as touching the principle and doctrine of their having many wives and concubines ; beliold and lo, I am the Lord, and will answer thee as touching this matter." MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 593 that the also :.iple liold this *'And again, as pertaining to the law of the priesthood, if any man espouse a virgin and desires to espouse another, and the first give her consent, and if he espouse the second and they are virgins and have vowed to no other man, then is he justified ; he cannot commit adultery, for they are given unto him ; for he cannot com- mit adultery with that that belongeth unto him and to none else : and if he have ten virgins given unto him by this law, he cannot commit adultery, for they belong to him and are given unto him ; therefore is he justified. They are given unto him to multiply and replenish the earth according to my commandment, and to fulfil the promise which was given by my Faiher before the foundation of the world, and for their exaltation in the eternal worlds, that they may bear the souls of men, for herein is the work of my Father continued that he may be glorified." Emma Smith, the wife of Joseph, is commanded, under dire penalties from the Lord, to receive kindly to her bosom all the wives that Joseph may have given unto him, and the Mormon women generally are ad- vised of God's impending wrath if they reject the wife- offerings he gives to his saints ; and to fully provide against emergencies and be ready for any change that may be desirable, the spirit tells the prophet of further revelations, concluding: "And now, as pertaining unto this law, verily, ri^rily, I say unto you, I will reveal more unto you hereafter ; therefore, let this suffice for the present. Behold, I am Alpha and Omega. Ameni" In the "new revelation," provision is made for " spiritual wives" for the saints, so that the " apostles," elders, and others of the church may j^^/ unto them- selves the wives of others as spiritual vAv^s for eternity; so that in the land where the " streets are paved with gold" and Mormons are gods, the wife is not necessa- rily obliged to associate with her poor husband of earth, but can select her company while here, provided she 38 594 THE GOLDEN STATE, avoid the "lascivious men oi California" and choose a faithful saint. Virgins also can, before marriage, select their heavenly mate by sealing on earth. On the first mention of the new doctrine of polygamy, in 1 843, .it caused great commotion, and many rebelled against it A few elders attempted to promulgate the revelation, but so fierce was the opposition that, while Joseph and a few of his leaders held a monopoly of the " new law," he made public proclamation against it in the church paper, the Times and Seasons, published at Nauvoo, as follows : NOTICE. Ap we have lately been credibly informed that an elder of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, by the name of Hiram Brown, has been preaching polygamy and other false and corrupt doctrines in the county of Lapeer and State of Michigan, This is to notify him and the church in general that he has been cut off from the church for his iniquity, and he is further noti- fied to appear at the special conference on the 6th of April next, to make answer to these charges. Joseph Smith, Hyrum Smith, Presidents of the Church. This proclamation satisfied the "common people," and suited particularly the European missionaries, who took good care to give it publicity. Meantime, Young z nd his elders had stocked their harems with the choice doves of their flocks. Mary Ann Angell Young, the second wife of Brig- ham, (he was a widower with two children when he j'oined the church,) who now lives in separate quarters at Salt Lake City, soon found herself surrounded by the increasing wives of her husband, and this too, while MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 595 1?- by polygamy was publicly proclaimed " the work of the devil." Lucy Decker Seely, the divorced wife of Dr. Seely, was the second (or first polygamous) wife, soon followed by Harriet Cook, who gave birth to the first offspring of polygamy — Oscar Young. Clara Decker, Clara Chase, Lucy Bigelow, Harriet Bowker, Harriet Barry, and the charming Emeline Free, so long the favorite of the " president," were all soon added to the harem ; Emeline in turn being succeeded among others by Amelia Folsom, Brigham's present centre of affec- tion. Brigham Young, who for the past twenty-eight years has ruled as a king at the head of Church and State in Utah, has practically fulfilled the injunction to " in- crease and multiply." His children are counted by scores, and they and his wives, spiHtual and temporal, may never be fully discovered until the division of the property of the dead president enters the courts. Marriages in Mormondom are not publically pro- claimed;- no license is necessary, and all unions are " solemnized " at the " Endowment House," in tlie presence of a few friends only. Brigham, who was born on the ist of June, 1801, and was consequently seventy-one years of age on the I St of June, 1872, had, up to that period, twenty-four wiveSy (sixteen of whom were living,) and fifty-four spiritual wives sealed to him " for eternity." Among tlie wives of Brigham, as among those of many of the saints, are instances of three or four sisters all married to the same man, and mothers and daughters, in pairs and triplets, joining to one husband in the same house, and a grandmother, mother, and child all wives of one man. ^q5 the golden state. The late Heber C. Kimball, who so long stood next in authority to Young, fulfilled well his earthly mission, leaving seventeen widows to "mourn his loss," and innumerable children to his " inheritance," besides " spiritual wives for eternity." All the '" apostles," as well as nearly all the Mormon "brethren," embrace polygamy; and they and their children in their footsteps have jumbled the laws of consanguinity beyond the hope of solution. The marrying of brothers and sisters, at least of the half-blood, has been permitted; and innumerable in- stances of marriages with nieces and other close blood- relations are constantly occurring. Two of the daugh- ters of Brigham Young are married to H. B. Clawson, a prominent saint, and but recently the aggregate wives of five Mormons numbered seventy and their off- spring one hundred and fifty. The doctrines of Mormonism, as given by " Joseph the prophet," are as follows : "We believe in God the Eternal Father, and in His Son, Jesus Christ, and in the Holy Ghost. "We believe that men will be punished for their own sins, and not for Adam's transgression. "We believe that through atonement of Christ all mankind may be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the gospel. " We believe that these ordinaYices are : First, Faith in the Lord Jesus Christ \ Second, Repentance ; Third, Baptism by immersion for the remission of sins ; Fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of the Holy Ghost. "We believe that a man must be called of God by 'prophecy and by laying on of hands,' by those who are in authority to preach the gospel and administer the ordinances thereof. "We believe in the same organization that existed in the primi- tive church, viz. : apostles, prophets, pastors, teachers, evangelists, &c. MORMONISM AND THE MORMONS. 597 "We believe in the gift of tongues, prophecy, revelation, visions,^ healing, interpretation of tongues, &c. " We believe the Bible to be the word of God as far as it is trans- lated correctly. We also believe the Book of Mormon to be the word of God. "We believe all God has revealed, all that He does now reveal, and we believe that He v/ill yet reveal many great and important things pertaining to the kingdom of God. "We believe in the literal gathering of Israel, and in the restora- tion of the ten tribes j that Zion will be built upon this continent ; that Christ will reign personally on the earth, and that the earth will be renewed in its paradisiac glory. "We claim the privilege of worshipping Almighty God according to the dictates of our own conscience, and allow all men the same privilege, let them worship how, where, or what they may. " We believe in being subject to kings, presidents, rulers, magis- trates ; in obeying, honoring, and sustaining law. " We believe in being honest, true, chaste, benevolent, virtuous, and in doing good to all men. Indeed, we may say that we follow the admonition of Paul : 'we believe all things; we hope all things;' we have endured many things and hope to be able to endure all things. If there is any thing virtuous, lovely, or of good report,, or praiseworthy, we seek after these things." :h i- s, How closely the practices of the " Latter-day Saints'* comport with the "inspired doctrines" may well be known by the dark catalogue of crime on the court records of Utah against the "head of the church," his apostles and followers, and the misery and social dis- order of the harems. In American polygamy, as in the East, women are generally regarded little better than slaves ; herded as they are, in Young's and Kimball's and other establish- ments, by scores, giving birth to children whose fathers are claimed as husband in such infinitesimal parts that love and the kindred accompaniments of the household are mythical illusions, leaving the hearth of home a 598 THE GOLDEN STATE. , barren waste, and the heart of woman an empty sepul- chre, where the light of love never casts a ray to dispel the eternal eclipse, in whose unholy shadow the canker- worm of jealousy and the pangs of despair gnaw their victims to the grave. If the sullen, dreamy apathv of the Mormon women, looking with wild distrust upon husbands claimed by others, and wincing under unprovoked neglect, or the display of hypocritical affection to associates by their lord ; the unwelcome proclamation of the birth of the child of their associate in fractional wedlock ; and the pangs and gloom to which their imprisoned and impoverished love is bound as it struggles through the night of absolute despair — if these things be "joy and gladness," and "woman's highest mission," by what name shall we call the ordered laws that centres one woman's love to the heart of one affectionate and con- fiding husband, where the mutual love and parental joys are lighted anew in the innocent faces proclaiming the unity of souls in the "twain flesh made one?" Society, as it is known in other parts of America, is entirely unknown in Utah. There is but little inter- course between Mormon families. Even in the city of Salt Lake, where an elegant theatre is maintained, it is patronized chiefly by Gentiles and apostate Mormons. Visiting among women and evening entertainments are rare, and Gentile men are excluded from all intercourse with the wives and daughters of the saints. On the Sabbath the harems let loose their flocks, who file in solemn procession to the tabernacle, to listen to the prophecies of Joseph, and the laws of •' increase," as expounded by the " elders of the Lortl." In Salt Lake City, a few leading Mormons who have MORMOmSM AND THE MORMONS, 599 IS ter- means maintain spaciou:; establishments, where their wives and families live in comparative comfort. But as the great body of the people are poor, a man often finds it burdensome to support five, eight, or ten wives, so the women soon find that they have to rely upon their own industry for their bread. Dress, fashion, and the filigrees of modern city women are unknown among Mormon wives. Plain dressing, plain food, hard work, obedience, baptism, and child-bearing arc the pleasures and duties of Mormon women. Of late years, the influx of Gentiles, railroad inter- course and enterprise in the Territory have somewhat changed the position of the young Mormon females, many of whom decline to enter the harems, and leave the country, seeking homes and protection in Cali- fornia, Oregon, and Nevada, and other sections, much to the displeasure of the bishops and elders. The solution of the '• Mormon question " still dis- tracts the country. Utah as a State, with an anti-Mor- mon majority, could soon exterminate polygamy. As a Territory, with Mormqn juries, no punishment can be imposed on Mormon offenders. A few years, how- ever, at most, will give Utah an anti-Mormon majority, when Mormonism, now embraced by about eighty thousand in Europe and America, will be weeded out of Utah, and eventually be known only as a thing of the past. of )rd. lave 6oo THE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XXXV. ARIZONA TERRITORY. Area and population — Climate — Soil — Mountains — Rivers — Forests — Mines — Mining — Minerals — Settlement — Civilization — Rail- roads — Indians. The Territory of Arizona is situated in the semi- tropical region lying directly east of California and west of Mexico, and is bounded on the south by the Republic of Mexico, east by New Mexico, north by Utah, and west by the Colorado river, which forms the boundary between the extreme southeastern corner of California and the northwestern part of Arizona. This Territory, which embraces an area of 126,140 square miles, was acquired from the Republic of Mexico by the conquest of California, and the " Gads- den Purchase ;" and by act of Congress of the 24th of February, 1863, was organized with 31 territorial government, with the capital at Tucson. In 1870, the population of this Territory, exclusive of Indians, was but 9,658 ; of whom but 3,849 were native born, and 5,809 were foreigners. Tiie pre- ponderance of foreigners is owing to the fact of the large numbers of Mexicans in the country. There were at this period but twent)'^-six colored people and twenty Chinese in this Territory. The climate of Arizona is exceedingly dry in its western division, and in the section adjoining the River Colorado; and in many portions of the interior the heat of summer is intense, it often reaching one hun- V /I n a /;ir ARIZONA TERRITORY, 6oi dred and twenty degrees In the shade, at which it will continue for many days in succession. Winter in these quarters is almost unknown, and, except upon the high mountains, snow never falls ; but in the northern and eastern portion of the Territoiy the mountains are clad with snow perpetually ; throughout the valleys and low hills snow and frost are unknown, and the climate of the Territory may be called perpetual sum- mer. The rainfall in the western part of Arizona does not exceed four inches per annum ; but, throughout the central and eastern division, sufficient rain falls for agricultural purposes. The physical character cf the country is rugged in the extreme, and large areas of mountain and alkaline deserts are unfit for cultivation. In many portions large grazing- ranges exist, and there are innumerable rich and fertile valleys, well adapted to agricultural pursuits, and where many of the tropical and all the semi-tropical fruits grow abundantly. Owing to the sparse population and the continuous excitement in the Territory about mines, but little has been done in developing the agricultural resources of the country; but the richness of the soil, the wid.^ and excellent pasture-ranges, and the mildness of the cli- mate, all tend to make this Territory a very desirable field for the immigrant and the employment of labor and capital. Many portions of the country are but poorly watered; but vast areas are supplied with abundance of water from the innumerable branches of the Colorado and Gila, the two principal rivers in the Territory. The Gila, flowing from east to west in a vast body, empties 602 THE GOLDEN STATE, into the Colorado near a point where the boundary of California, Arizona, and the Republic of Mexico jojn on the Colorado. From this point, both the Gila and Colo- rado rivers flow in one mighty current to the Gulf of California, and through these waters reach the Pacific ocean. The Colorado river, having its source in the Rocky mountains, courses southwestward through Wyoming, Utah, and the northwest corner of Arizona, forming the western boundary of the latter Territory. This vast river (often interrupted in its course of more than one thousand miles from its source to the sea) is navigable for steamers of large size for a considerable distance from the Gulf of California, and upon its upper waters to steamers of light draught. Forests of considerable extent exist in many parts of the country, and the scenery is generally picturesque, many of the hill-sides being covered with a dense growth of small trees ; so that, amidst forests, dashing cascades, bald mountains, and snow-clad peaks, many sections of Arizona present unsurpassed scenes of natural beauty. As yet the great resources of this Territory are un- developed. The hardy miner has, however, established the fact that mines of gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron of great extent and richness abound throughout the whole country. Not only are these metals found in the bowels of the earth, but mountains of lead, copper, iron, sulphur, and salt rear their heads, con- fronting the explorer on every side, and impressing him with the vast wealth of this almost unexplored region, destined to become at some future period the centre of ARIZONA TERRITORY. 603 of un- ihed and lOUt lund lead, con- him gion, re of civilized society, and a prosperous State in the Ameri- can Union. The annual product of the precious metals in Ari- zona, even with its scant population and great disad- vantages, is about 5551,500,000; but, by the application of machinery and well-directed efforts to develop her mineral resources, there is no reason why Arizona should not yet equal in her mineral productions the greatest yield of California in her best days. Trade with Arizona has been carried on chiefly with California. Nearly all the supplies — provisions, mer- chandise, and machinery — used in the Territory go from San Francisco either to San Diego, thence across the country by teams to the Colorado, or by steamers and sailing vessels up the Gulf of California and the waters of the Colorado, thence to the interior. A line of rail- road, (the Southern Pacific,) projected from San Diego, California, intended to run in an easterly and westerly direction, crossing the Colorado, and passing through the extreme southern part of Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and Arkansas, crosses the Mississippi at Mem- phis, making connection with the whole Atlantic coast, and tlience to ihe Atlantic seaboard; and another road — the Adantic and Pacific, or 35th parallel railroad — projected farther north in California, and intended to pass directly through the centre of Arizona, New Mexico, Indian Territory, and Missouri, crossing the Missouri at St. Louis, and passing on in an easterly direction to the Atlantic States, will, when completed, so develop the great natural wealth of this almost un- known region that it must attract a large share t)f the immigration of the country, and become the centre of 6o4* THE GOLDEN STATE. great mining activity. Both roads are now being vig- oiously pushed, and but a few years will elapse before two southern through railroads from ocean to ocean will bring this beautiful region of country a prospe;'ous State in the Union. The Territory, with all its drawbacks, is struggling for the development of its resources and the establishment of civilization. Tucson, the capital, Tubac, Arizona City, La Paz, and Prescott, the principal towns, show signs of enterprise and refinement. Schools, churches, and the. printing-press assert their dominion, and soon will the murderous scenes of the forest savage give way to the pursuits of industry and the laws of civiliza- tion. Already there are three newspapers published in Arizona — one at Tucson, one at Prescott, and one at Arizona City. Arizona is the paradise of the red man. Here for hundreds of thousands of years (for aught we know) he has angled in its streams, hunted in its glens, roamed over its valleys, lurked in its forests and deep canons, listened to the wild roar and watched the maddened leap of its cataracts; here he listened to the traditions of his fathers, and buried the bones of his ancestors ; and here, with a pertinacity worthy of a better cause, he holds on to the hunting-grounds of his fathers; here the Mojave^ Yavapai, Pima, Yuma, and the murderous Apache whet their knives and raise the bloody toma- hawk for the scalp of the "pale face," and exhibit such fierce resolution and brutality to hold on to the expiring embers of primitive barbarous life and the last hunting- grourfds and the last natural rights of a once numerous and powerful but fast-expiring race, whose history, from INTERVIEW WITH A C.RIZZLY. APACHE SQUAW SCALP DANCE, ARIZONA. SHOOTING MOINTAIN SHEEI' IN THK Rrx KY Mdl'XTAINS. iVo/Uj *^-~ INDIAN'S CAMIILINC. ARIZONA TERRITORY. 605 the landing of the Pilgrims to the present hour, has filled our records with chapters of blood and scenes of most revolting barbarity, making the extinction of the aborigines a desired consummation. The Apache tribe of Indians in Arizona are the most warlike and fierce enemy of the white man of all the races on the continent. Their '* braves" are power- fully built, active, muscular, daring, and savage as a gorilla. All efforts yet made to reconcile these savages to fellowship with their white brethren have been in vain. They are still numerous and powerful, defying the feeble efforts of humanitarian and soldier alike. The mild climate, abundance of game, and the lleet ponies upon which they are mounted, the deep forfcc^'5, dark ravines, and gulches, whose winding ways are known only to the Apaches, enable them from their places of security to pounce like wild beasts upon immi- grant, miner, or soldier alike. So detennined are these savages to drive the whites out of their country, and in such dread do the people hold the poison-arrow, scalping-knife, and tomahawk of these '* red devils," that mines of fabulous richness, rich farming and grazing lands alike, are all abandoned ; and, despite of a few feeble military posts in the Terri- tory, the Apache still holds sway, and the power of life and death even of the military forces. But alas ! for the red man, his days in our land are numbered, and the sands of his time fast leave an empty glass in which his shadow is but dimly reflected. Railroads and " civil- ization" have, from Maine to Oregon, sealed his fate; his canoe lies stranded upon the shores of the great lakes; his bow and arrows hang upon the forest trees; 6o6 THE GOLDEN STATE. his tomahawk rests upon the ground; .his hunting- grounds wave in rusding corn; his war-whoop dies upon the passing breeze, to be answered by the shrill whisde of the iron courser, whose fiery breath proclaims the departure of a past race to its eternal hunting- grounds. " Lo ! the poor Indian !" he has left no written lan- guage, no laws, customs, arts, nor architecture to per- petuate his memory ; his stone-axe, poison-arrow, and bloody record proclaim fo*- a brief period his fierce career; while his euphonious names, like jewels of antiquity, cling to our lakes, rivers, and mountains, to recall to the future historian the existence of a race whose origin is a mystery, whose career and extinction are not unalloyed with romance and incomprehensible fatality. I/) 'A > w ft ! « IDAHO TERRITORY. 607 CHAPTER XXXVI. IDAHO TliiRITORY. Area — Geography — Mountains — Rivers — Forests — I-nkos — Scenery — Waterfalls — Valleys — Agriculture — Climate — Indians — Gold and silver mines — Material progress — Railroads — Cities and town — Population. The Territory of Idaho embraces an area of 90,932 square miles. It was formerly embraced within the Territory of Oregon, and more recendy within the area of Washington Territory; and was, in 1863, with its present limits, organized with a territorial government by act of Congress. The Territory in length, from tlie northern line of the State of Nevada to British Colum- bia in the north, running the whole length of Oregon and Washington Territories, is about five hundred miles. At its northern end it is narrowed to about fifty miles, lying between the western slope of the Rocky mountains and Washington Territory on the west. From this point, extending south until it reaches its southern boundary, it gradually widens, until it finally attains a width of three hundred miles. Idaho is bounded on the west by Oregon and Wash- ington Territory, north by British Columbia, east by the Rocky mountains and Wyoming Territory, south by Nevada and Utah; the crest of the Rocky mountains forming the entire eastern line, leaving the whole of this Territory west of that range of mountains. The surface of Idaho is a succession of loft)' moun- tain chains, rugged hills, alkaline and volcanic flats, rolling pasture-ranges, and numerous fertile valleys. The Territory is well supplied with water by several 6o8 THE GOLDEN STATE. rivers of magnitude, and innumerable dashing streams, fed by the eternal snow of the mountains. The chief river in Idaho is the Snake, sometimes known as Lewis river; having its source in the western slope of the Rocky mountains, and coursing in a westerly direction across the entire width of the southern part of the Ter- ritory, a distance of more than three hundred miles, until It reaches the eastern boundary of Oregon, where it turns directly north, and for a distance of two hun- dred miles forms the line between Oregon and Idaho. A few miles north of this point, at the city of Lewiston, where the Territories of Washington and Idaho are divided by this stream, it turns directly west, and for one hundred additional miles keeps this course, until near Wallula, in Washington Territory, it empties into the main Columbia, and is carried to the Pacific ocean. The Snake river, in its circuitous passage from the Rocky mountains to Lewiston, runs through a great variety of country — sandy desert, elevated table-land, rich valleys, deep cafions and gorges; and often cutting through and leaping over high mountains, creating in its passage impassable and lovely cascades and falls of great maj^iiitude and beauty. The Shoshone falls, in the southern portion of the Territory, but thirty-five miles n' Hear river, a stream of considerable size, roursing through Bear valley in a circle, and finally emptying into Great Salt lake in Utah. Monument, a station on the Central Pacific overland J9 6io THE C OLDEN STATE. ill!' railroad, at the northern end of Great Salt lake, is but twenty miles from the southern line of Idaho, near Bear valley, and from this and other points of this road travellers entering the southern portion of the Territory will find ine easiest and shortest route. To reach the northern portion of the Territory from the Pacific side, passage can be made by the waters of the Columbia and Snake rivers, or by a journey o\'erland through Oregon. The climate of Idaho in the northern section in winter is cold, and snow of great depth falls, and frost is severe in the mountains ; but the cold of winter is much less than the cold in the same latitude east of the Rocky mountains. There are wide pasture-ranges in the Territory, and cattle, horses, and sheep in great num- bers are driven toward the south, where they graze all winter upon the bunch grass and rich foliage of South- ern Idaho; indeed, even in the northern part, cattle are rarely housed in winter. Summer in Idaho is de- lightful. The extreme heat of the Atlantic States is not experienced, and the evenings are cool and the general temperature bracing and charming. In the for- ests wild game is abundant, and the principal streams abound with salmon, trout, and other fish. The red men, although still found in the country in considerable numbers, are neither numerous nor war- like, and, as in most parts of the West, having spent their fury, are slowly passing away to the shades of oblivion. So far, mining is the chief business of the Territory, and, like the whole range w^est of the Rocky mountains, gold, silver, and other minerals are found in most of the mountain ran,,^es, and many mine:; are worked with vigor and with great profit. The annual yield of gold COUNCII, WITH IRIKNULY NKZ PKRCKS '.NDlANb, llJAHU T'-j ^»m K.M1i:RANTS v<.iKUINi. li.i. WKK KIVER, 2 I I t V C a L P r( C A IDAHO TERRITORY. 6ii and silver in /daho is about $8,000,000 — one-third as much as the annual yield of California at the present period. Many other metals besides gold and silver have been discovered, but, as yet, have been but little developed. Gold was first discovered in Idaho in 1S52, about the banks of the Pen d'Orellie river, but attracted little attention. The discovery of the Oro I^ino mines, in i860, awakened great interest, and drew a large number of gold-hunters from California and Oregon to- ward the then almost unexplored region of Idaho. Since that time forward, settlement has gone steadily on, and a degree of prosperity highly creditable to the pioneers and sparse population of this heretofore remote and inaccessible region has been attained. Idaho, undeir the stimulus of the industry of her people, her great natural resources, as well in agriculture, grazing, and lumber as in mines of gold and silver, is fast attaining importance. Each year the capacity of the soil for producing wheat, oats, barley, vegetables, and fruit of almost every variety is becoming understood ; and blooming orchards, waving fields of wheat — tjjp latt(-r producing from three to five times as many buslu:ls to the acre as does Illinois, Virginia, or Tennessee — and wide and luxuriant pasture- ranges swarming with fat cattle, attest the capacity of the soil, and give hope of a future vigorous and prosperous Statv*. The Northern Pacific railroad, now being built from Lake Superior to Puget sound, will pass through a great portion of this Territory, and materially develoi) its resouices and increase its population; and the project('d Canadian Pacific road, from Canada to British Columbia, when constructed, will be trilaitary to this and all the American territory immediately sui:Ui of that line. 6l2 THE GOLDEN STATE. Several towns of some importance have sprung up in Idaho. Among the principal ones are Lewiston and Idaho City, the latter with a population of 889, Silver City, with 599, and the territorial capital, Boise City, with 995. This city is situated in the southwestern corner of Idaho, one hundred and ten miles north of the southern line, and sixty miles directly east from where the western boundary joins the State of Oregon. The progress made in quartz-mining has been con- siderable. There are now thirty quartz-mills in' opera- tion ; and twenty-five saw-mills and ten flouring mills. Churches, schools, and theatres are maintained. Four newspapers are published in Idaho, and the territorial and Supreme Court libraries, at Boise City, contain an aggregate of fifteen thousand books. Idaho, like many of the Territories of the United States, presents the somewhat remarkable condition of a preponderating element of foreigners in her popula- tion. The census of 1870 shows the entire population of the Territory to have been 14,999; of whom 7,114 were native and 7,885 were of foreign birth. Of the aggregate population, 10,618 were white and sixty colored, besides 4,274 Chinese. The Chinese in this Territory, as in every section of the republic west of the Rocky mountains, push their way into every por- tion, however remote ; establishing their wash-houses, enga|;Ing as laborers, servants, and miners, and, while oblivious to latitude, language, laws, and customs, seem to fully comprehend the value of the charmer, gold, whose glitter brought them over deep seas and desolate plains and intb the fastnesses of the great American deserts. % )n cty his of ies, lile keni lold, late (can I b IK WASJJINGl'ON lERRlTORY. 613 I •I e £ 8' S 8, 111 7 J;ft, s. t El 8 a: • !- *! CHAPTER XXXVII. WASHINGTON TERRITORY. History, area, and population — Boundary — Geograjiby — Mountains — Lakes — Rivers — Bays — Harbors — Seasons — Climate — Agiiciil- ture — Grazing — Forests — Lumber — Commerce — Fish — Game — Natives — Gold, silver, coal, and other mines — Progress — Railroads. Washington Territory was, until 1853, a part of the Territory of Oregon, at which time it was by act of Congress erected into a separate Territory, with an eraa of 69,994 square miles This Territory is the extreme western portion of the United States south of British Columbia, and possesses the greatest extent of navigable waters of any State or Territory in the republic. Passing through the centre of the Territory, from north to south and from east to west on its eastern boundary, are one thousand miles of the Columbia river; and on its western shore are five hundred miles of the Pacific ocean, and within the circle of its great harbor — the inland sea, Puget sound — including islands, are three thousand one hundred miles of shore line, all accessible to the largest class ships ; making an aggre- gate of lour thousand six hundred miles of navigable watfjr 1 jiri in the Territory. Wa;5hin,^*:on Territory is bounded on the south by the River Columbia, which forms the line between this Territory and the State of Oregon ; east it is bounded by Idaho; west by British Columbia, the boundary being the forty-ninth degree of north latitude ; on its northwest corner is the Strait of San Juan de Fuca, and upon its western line the Pacific ocean. T IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET {MT-3) 1.0 28 CI I.I 1.25 1.4 |M 1.6 - 6' Photographic Sciences Coiporation 7 A // V. f/i ,\ v ^c ^ •1>' :\ \ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. )4.'S80 (716) 872-4503 T : 614 TEH GOLDEN STATE. The general features of the surface of this Territory are dense forests of fir and other trees, broad plains* numerous fertile valleys, rugged hills, and snow-capped mountains, whose bald and snow- clad tops stand high above the surrounding country; numerous lakes, great navigable waters, and dashing streams of much volume and beauty. The two chief mountain chains in Washington are the Coast Range, broken and irregular, and the Cascade range, bold and well-defined. In this latter range is the highest mountain between California and Alaska, Mount Rainier, about seventy miles southeast from Olympia at the head of Puget sound, and standing 14,444 f^^t above the waters of the ocean. In the tame mountain chain, and about the same distance from Olympia as is Rainier, but a little more toward the west, stands Mount St. Helen's, 9,550 above the sea level. Forty-five miles directly north from the town of Dalles, on the Columbia, is Mount Adams, 9,570 feet in height. All these mountains are in the Cascade range, and their snow-clad summits can be seen from Olympia, the Columbia river, and surrounding country at all seasons of the year. Near the northwestern corner of the Territory, and about fifteen miles from the British Columbia line, and twenty-five miles directly east from the ocean, is Mount Baker, 10,700 feet :'n height, and a most promi- nent object from the waters of Bellingham bay. Straits of Fuca, Puget sound, and adjacent country. The next mountain of prominence in the Territory is Mount Olympic, and, although less in magnitude than any of those already named, owing to its location, is the most prominent feature of the whole country. It stands ind [ne, is imi- laits lext iunt of lOSt inds WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 615 upon the peninsula formed by the waters of the Pacific •ocean, the Straits of Fuca, and Puget sound. It is sixty-five miles in a direct line southeast from Cape Flattery, the extreme northwestern point of the Terri- tory; twenty miles south from Port Anglos, on the waters of the Straits of Fuca; forty-five miles about west from Port Townsend, at the entrance of Puget sound ; and thirty-five miles northeast from the highest waters of tht; Pacific ocean. Lifting its head 8,138 feet above the ocean, looking far out upon the waters of the Pacific, and seeming almost to cast its icy shadow far over the sea, stands Mount Olympic — a prominent land- mark and object :br every navigator in this quarter of the Pacific, and presenting a strong and beautiful con- trast with the verdure of the valleys and the deep green of the tall firs, whose tops struggle in vain to reach the ermine mantle of this stately sentinel of antiquity. The navigable waters of Washington Territory are of the most extensive and remarkable character. Be- ginning at the southern extremity of the Territory, at the mouth of the Columbia, which forms the southern boundary of the Territory, dividing Washington Terri- tory and Oregon, it runs northward through Washing- ton Territory and a great portion of British Columbia; has one thousand miles of navigable waters in Wash- ington, one hundred and sixty miles of which — from the mouth of the Columbia to the Cascades — is navi- gated by ships and large ocean -steamers. At this point, after making a portage of six miles, and another at Dalles, farther up the river, small steamers and sailing vessels ascend for an additional distance of eight hundred and forty miles. Inside the Columbia bar are Gray's and Baker's bays, and twenty-five miles 6i6 THE GOLDEN STATE. north of the mouth of the Columbia, on the sea-coast, is Shoalwater bay, celebrated for its oyster-beds, but navigable only for small vessels. Twenty miles north of Shoalwater bay is Gray^s harbor, admitting vessels of light draught only. From this point to Cape Flat- tery, the extreme west headland of the Territory, there are several small rivers, but no harbor of any importance. Between Cape Flattery and the mainland of Washington Territory and Vancouver island, on the north and west, is the famous Strait of Fuca, fourteen miles in width, and in the shape of a half circle, sweep- ipg for one hundred and fifty miles from Cape Flattery to near the mouth of Frazer river, in British Columbia, where it meets the Gulf of Georgia. In all this strait not an obstacle is found to impede navigation — no sunken rocks, reefs, or shoals; and ships of the largest size can go close to the main shore and the shores of the islands toward its eastern side. In the middle of the strait the water is more than one hundred fathoms deep, and in some places bottom has not been found. This strait leads into the great inland sea of Puget sound, which enters the northwestern end of Washing- ton Territory. Juan de Fuca strait, so famous in the early records of the first voyagers on the North Pacific coast, received its name in 1792 from the navigators who, about this period, 'lad confirmed the statements of its real dis- coverer, the old Greek sailor, Jua^i de Fuca, whose early voyage had not determined that Vancouver was an island, but still left the impression that the island was a part of the mainland. Captain Cook's voyage of 1778, although extending northward beyond the strait, did not discover it. He had followed the outer i^i*- "« CASTI.E ROCK, rOUTMBIA RTVF.R.. MOUNT RAtNiF.R FROM vtif.KT SOUND, (Wasliington Territory.) WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 617 western line of Vancouver Island, and it still required the voyages of Meares, Berkely, Duncan, Kendricks, Gray, and others, from 1787-9, to fully confirm the existence of a strait between the Island of Vancouver and the mainland. On the 29th of April, 1792, Van- couver entered the strait and commenced his surveys to confirm the existence of this great navigable water ; but Vancouver found the Yankee ahead of him. On his arrival in the sound, he found Captain Gray, of Bos- ton, had navigated the strait, and was there in person, exploring and trafificking with the Indians, dealing out his " Yankee notions" and Massachusetts copper coins to the natives. Gray received his English cousin kindly, and showed him the country "round about," and an American flag floating from a pole on the beach. In 1592, Apostolus Valerianos, the Greek pilot known as y'ua7i de Fuca, was sent by the Viceroy of Mexico on a voyage of discovery along the coast of California and Oregon, and along the northwest coast. Upon this cruise he made his famous discovery of the strait now bearing his name. But his discovery and him- self were long regarded as myths, neglected and almost forgotten, as the viceroy, without affording him material aid, recommended him to the King of Spain, with a report of his discoveries; but no aid rewarded the exertions of poor Fuca, who, in 1602, died in Italy, in poverty and obscurity. A brief narrative of Fuca's discovery, published in 1625 by Michael Lok, entitled "■ Purchas his Pilgrimes^ first published under the title of " A note made by me, Michael Lok the elder, touching the Strait of the Sea, com- monly called Fretum Anian, in the South sea, through the 6i8 THE GOLDEN STATE. northwest passage of Meta incognita," had first intro- duced to the public the discoverer of the Strait of Fuca. Lok had met the old Greek sailor at Venice in 1596, and learned from his lips his triumphs and his miseries. Captain Candlish, the English navigator and buccaneer, the old navigator said, had taken his galleon off the coast of Lower California, "whereby he lost sixtie thousand duckets of his owne goods." Fuca applied to the English government through Lord Cecil, Sir Walter Raleigh, and others, for service under its patronage, in hope of regaining his losses by their pirate countrymen, but without success. The narrative of Fuca's voyage into the strait says : "Also, he said, that he went on land in divers places, and that he saw some people on land clad in beasts' skins : and that the land is very fruitful and rich in gold, silver, pearl, rnd oriier things, like Nona Spania. ** And also, he said, that he being entered thus farre into the said strait, and being come into the North sea already, [between Van- couver island and the mainland,] and finding the sea wide enough everywhere, and to be about thirtie or fortie leagues wide in the mouth of the straits where hee entered, hee thought hee had now well discharged his office and done the thing which hee was sent to doe, and that hee not being armed to resist the force of the salvage people that might happen, hee therefore set sayle and returned homewards againe towards N,oua Spania^ where he arrived at Acapulco, Anno 1592." Puget sound, from its western entrance near Port Townsend to its head waters at Olympia, is eighty miles in a direct line, and about one hundred and twenty miles by the course generally navigated. North of the en- trance at Port Townsend, and toward Bellingham bay, there are several '-ntrances through channels and groups of islands to this sound, and ships of the largest size 01 sc ler th( WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 619 can at all seasons and with all winds find an easy entrance and exit to and from this magnificent sheet of water. Bellingham bay, which is fifty miles north of Port Townsend, and which forms an opening into Puget sound, is distant from Olympia one hundred and thirty miles in a direct line; so that Puget sound proper is about one hundred and thirty miles in length in an air- line from its head waters to its northern entrance. The sound has an average width of twenty-five miles, swelling in its widest part to fifty miles. The general course of the waters of the sound is from north to south, and from the entrances to its head is a succession Ol islands, some small, others containing thousands of acres, and nearly all covered with oak, ash, fir, and other timber, shrubbery, fern, and green grass, lending a most picturesque and romantic appearance to this lovely section. Innumerable channels, inlets, coves, and small bays indent the mainland and the shores of the islands within the sound, which, with the verdure of the surrounding country, the stillness of the waters, the dense and deep green forests rising upon either side, and the venerable white heads of the mountains in the background, not only make Puget sound one of the finest and safest harbors in the world but a scene of unsurpassed beauty. Like the Strait of Fuca, Puget sOund is uninterrupted by either rocks, reefs, flats, or shoals — there not being a single object of danger to navigation within the whole length of a coast line, including islands, bays, and inlets, of three thousand one hundred miles. In all this length there is not an object to retard the progress of the largest ocean-steamer, and in most places so deep i 620 THE GOLDEN STATE. \ is the water that the sides of the largest ship will touch the banks before her keel will touch the bottom. With but few exceptions the banks are clay, and the beach white, hard sand and pebble. The water of the sound is of crystal purity, and sixty fathoms deep in many places, and in some parts bottom has not been found with a hundred fathom line. There are several streams running into the sound, but none of any mag- nitude, and there is no bay or river at its head ; but the water of the ocean flows its whole length, making a rise of twelve feet at neap tide and eighteen feet at spring tide. At Olympia, the head of the waters, there is quite a long mud-flat at low tide, but this is the only place of this kind upon the whole sound. Indeed, in most parts, the water is too deep for convenient anchorage. Ice is never seen in all the waters of Puget sound. It is never stormy upon this inland sea. There are no strong currents, cross seas, gales, nor gusts of wind. The climate is mild, the waters sheltered upon every side, completely landlocked; and pure water, fish, game, wood, and coal are abundant, making it one of the safest and most convenient seaports in the world -for repairs and supplies. The waters of Puget sound are navigated by steamers and ships, and steamers run regularly to and from this point and California, Van- couver island, and other places ; and fleets of domes- tic and foreign vessels load with lumber and spars for Europe, Asia, Australia, South America, Sandwich islands, and California. The climate of Puget sound and adjoining country is mild and generally agreeable, never being too cold nor too hot. It is much like the climate of Oregon. Snow R( th( nil evd noi sm WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 621 o Q A O falls upon the mountain ridges and high lands ; and for a few days in each winter a light coat of snow may fall in some of the valleys, but is soon swept away by the heat of the sun. Ice is formed upon the waters of the northeastern portion of the Territory ; but throughout the region upon the sea-cor^ ^ and all the southern sec- tion frost and snow are seldoiu seen. The ground is never frozen. Vegetables grow the year round; and horses, sheep, and cattle ^raze at large throughout the whole winter. Gardening is g''^nerally begun in March, but vegetables and flowers grow every day in the year; and farming is never interrupted by cold or frost. The waters of Puget sound are never frozen, and the climate of winter and summer differs but a few degrees — the mean annual temperature being fifty degrees ; winter temperature being forty-one degrees, and mean summer sixty-two degrees. Yet this region is in the line of the forty-ninth degree of north latitude, is three degrees farther north than the city of St. John, Newfoundland, and the city of Quebec, Canada; and is north of the whole of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward island, and the whole of the River St. Lawrence. But Puget sound is seventy degrees west of St. John's, Newfoundland, and fifty-two degrees west of Quebec, and where the influence of the great interior line of the Rocky mountains and the waters and breezes of the Pacific ocean so subdue the rigors of winter as to make the whole Pacific coast — at least as far as the forty- ninth degree of north latitude — perpetual summer; and even up to Behring strait, in the sixty-sixth degree of north latitude, along the whole coast line, so mild that snow rarely falls upon the low lands, and that heavy I .^! 622 THE GOLDEN STATE. falls of cold rains with light frosts constitute the wintei of this region on the sea-coast. One of the chief features of Washington Territory is its vast forests. These consist of fir trees, which, in the vicinity of Puget sound and the whole western portion of the Territory, cover the greater part of the surface and grow to a great size. The forest is dense; the trees straight, free from limbs, and generally carry their thickness well toward the top, which is surmounted with a tuft of evergreen boughs. The timber is free from knots, strong, and durable ; and is used generally in house and ship building, and makes the finest masts and spars in the world. The trees generally grow from two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet in height, and from four to ten feet in diameter ; and trees are often found to grow three hundred feet in height; and at some of the mills on the sound, planks of two hundred feet in length, clear, and entirely free of knots, are cut. Lumbering, agriculture, and mining are the chief occupations of the people ; and sawed and other lumber finds a market in California, Mexico, South and Central America, the Sandwich islands, and even in Australia, China, Japan, and some parts of Europe. With the great supply of timber, the fine harbors, and genial climate of Washington Territory, it must at some day become an important ship-building point. It must not be understood that all the surface of Washington Territory is covered with forest: on the contrary, even in the vicinity of the sound, there are many rich and beautiful valleys, and a considerable arci of excellent agricultural land ; and agricultural pursuits, which are conducted m all parts of the Territory, show y, show WASHINGTON TERRITORY, 623 that the soil will produce abundantly of wheat, oats, barley, vegetables, and fruit; and that timothy and clover, neither of which will grow in California, except in a few localities, grow most luxuriantly. As a grazing country, Washington Territory Is equal to any portion of America — the mild climate, native grasses, and rich herbage making it a most desirable place for horses, cattle, and sheep. Animals live in the open air during the whole year, and, with the exception of a few cold or stormy days in January in a few locali- ties, experience litde difficulty in supporting themselves without the aid of man. Wild game of almost every variety — elk, deer, bear, swan, geese, ducks, crane, snipe, plover, grouse, and many others — abound. Fur animals — seal, sea-otter, otter, beaver, mink, fox, martin, and other varieties — are abundant, and of good quality. The bays and rivers are well stocked with fish, salmon of the finest quality abounding in the Columbia and the waters of Puget sound, and all the rivers of any size. Mines of the precious and other metals are found, and worked to great advantage in many parts of the country. On the tributaries of the Columbia, and throughout the greater part of the eastern side of the Territory, gold and silver mines, yielding annually one million dollars, are worked with great profit. Rich deposits of copper and iron have been discovered, and coal-beds of great ex- tent and value abound in the whole country surround- ing Puget sound and Bellingham bay. The country generally is well watered with dashing streams, and the falls and cascades afford abundant motive power for the future mechanical industries of this quarter. Wild berries in great quantity and variety grow throughout 624 THE GOLDEN STATE. the Territory, and these, with the abundance of fish and game, supplied the wants of the numerous Indian tribes inhabiting this section. There are still large numbers of Indians in Washington Territory, but, as in most other quarters of the West, they are passing away. Soon will the canoe of the red man be seen upon the waters of Puget sound no more forever. The coming shriek of the steam-whistle will sound the death- knell of the Chinook, Shawnee, Walla Walla, and J^lal- head throughout the forests and along the shores of this western land. The people of Washington Territory are chiefly American, but there is a large number of other nation- alities. It has not yet become dense enough to indulge its members in all the vice of more populous places, and the inhabitants are generally industrious and well disposed. Churches, schools, libraries, and other evi- dence of progress are to be found. The federal gov- ernment has donated to the Territory three thousand square miles of land for educational jpurposes, and a territorial university is maintained at Seattle, on the shores of Puget sound, and free schools are liberally maintained throughout the country. Washington is divided into twenty-one counties, with the territorial capital at Olympia, at the head waters of Puget sound. The population of the Territory in 1870 was 23,955, having more than doubled during the past ten years. Of the entire population, 18,931 were native Americans, and 5,024 were of foreign birth. There were 207 colored and 234 Chinese in the Terri- tory at this period. In 1870, there were in Washington Territory twenty- five grist-mills, fifty-six saw-mills, one woollen factory, (.KEAT bi'KIN(;, KIRE-HOLE 'lASIN. YELLOWSTONE LAKE, WYOMING TERRITORY. (Line of the Northern Pacific Railroad.; fc Pi WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 625 thirteen newspapers, and four public libraries, contain- ing an aggregate of nine thousand volumes; a terri- torial university and several schools and churches. There were at the same time within the Territory two hundred thousand acres of improved land, and eleven thousand horses, one thousand mules, fifty thousand cattle, thirty-one thousand sheep, and fifteen thousand hogs; and there were produced in this year four hun- dred thousand bushels of wheat, three hundred thou- sand bushels of barley, sixty-one thousand bushels of oats, and thirty-one thousand tons of hay. The lumber resources are almost inexhaustible, and of the very best quality. Some idea of the extent of this trade may be had from the fact that the small population of the lumber districts in the vicinity of Puget sound manu- factured, in 1870, one hundred and ninety million fecU furnishing cargoes for one hundred and thirteen ships, one hundred and ninety-one barks, forty-five brigs, and eighty-seven schooners, which found their way to all parts of the Pacific coast. South and Central America, Sandwich Islands, Australia, East Indies, China, Japan, and Europe. Altogether — with the mild climate, rich mines, great forests, navigable waters, agricultural and grazing lands, and the large amount of the public domain yet open to settlement — Washington Territory is one of the most desirable sections of America In which the immigrant can seek a home. Here Is yet the virgin soil, primitive forests, and great natural wealth for a prosperous and populous State; and here, too, is the last remaining available site In the United States for a great maritime commercial cit)' on the shores of the magnificent Inland sea of Puget sound, inviting to its capacious bosom the I I 40 626 THE GOLDEN STATE. commerce of Asia and the North Pacific coast, and standing in an almost direct line between the great pro- ducing and consuming centres of the world — Europe and Asia. The Northern Pacific railroad, now being built from Lake Superior to Puget sound, will, when finished, draw to its western terminus the nucleus of a great city, develop the agricultural and mineral resources of Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Northern Oregon, Wash- ington Territory, and a great portion of the rich val- leys of that portion of the Canadian dominion between the lakes and the rocky mountains, rich in soil, min- erals, and forests, the gold-fields and other resources of British Columbia, and the gold and coal mines of Alaska, and the vast fishing resources of the Pacific. In considering the new national highway of the North, it is well to estimate its advantages in its com- mercial and local influences, and also in its national importance. Already the lakes of the interior are con- nected by water and rail with the Atlantic seaboard, and the products of interior America find their way to the ocean line and to Europe through these chan- nels ; but farther toward the West — from the lakes to the Pacific ocean — lies a vast region, mild in climate, rich in soil, minerals, forests, and wonders, yet to be brought under the dominion of man, and upon which prosperous and vigorous States must yet be erected. The section of country to be affected by the Northern railroad is vastly superior in climate and natural re- sources to the country between the Sierras afid the Rocky mountains, along the Union and Central Pacific roads. An opinion prevails that, along the line of the Northern road, cold must be intense, and the obstruc- WASHINGTON TERRITORY, 627 tlons of snow formidable ; this notion is incorrect. As you proceed north from the line of the Union and Central Pacific roads the elevation decreases, gradually falling from 8,235 feet at Sherman, in the Rocky mountains, on the Union Pacific, and 7,042 feet at Sum- mit, in the Sierras, to 4,950 feet at Deer Lodge Pass, and 3,700 feet at Clark's river, on the line of the North Pacific road in the Rocky mountains. These being the highest points on the line of the roads mentioned, it will thus be seen that, along the line of the Northern Pacific road, the elevation is at least three thousand feet less than along the line of the Union and Central Pa- cific roads. This depression continues from Lake Superior to Puget sound on the Pacific, leaving a belt running across the whole continent of from eight hun- dred to a thousand miles in breadth lying from three to four thousand feet lower than the rangfe from San Francisco to Chicago: forming a depression through which, at least as far east as the Rocky mountains, the mild trade-winds of the Pacific carry their influence, rendering the whole region from Puget sound to the Rocky mountains, and a great area of the territory of British Columbia — even as far north as Lesser Slave lake in the line of the fifty-sixth degree of north latitude — milder in winter than the climate of the States of Virginia and Tennessee. The new road to the Pacific begins at the head of Lake Superior, passing directly west between the forty- sixth and fort>'-eighth degrees of latitude through the centre of the State of Minnesota, through Dakota, in the centre of which it crosses the Missouri river and a succession of streams, forests, and fertile valleys; cross- ing the whole length of Montana Territory, where, for 628 THE GOLDEN STATE. four hundred and fifty miles, it follows the valley of the Yellowstone river, with its fertility, sterility, forests, des- erts, lakes, water- falls, fire-holes, hot, miheral, and other springs, and its famous geysers, presenting the grandest combination of beauties and natural wonders on the continent. Yellowstone Lake and the princi- pal geysers lie directly in the line of the Northern Pacific railroad and in the northwestern corner of Wyoming Territory, close to the line of Montana, and just east of the base of the Rocky mountains, and directly in the forty-fifth degree of north latitude and thirty-three west longitude. Here, embracing a vast tract which includes the water-falls, lakes, geysers, hot, mud, sulphur, and other springs, with the beautiful scenery, the National Congress has made a reservation for a public park, where the near future will witness thousands of health and pleasure seekers enjoying the finest natural scenery and grandest combination of natural phenomena in America. The park reserved by the national government is the largest reservation for public uses in the world, being sixty-five miles in length and fifty-five miles in breadth, or an area of 3,575 square miles. These vast public grounds are under the supervision of a commis- sioner appointed by the President of the United States ; and a large painting of the Yellowstone ca^fion, to adorn the walls of the national capitol, has recently been completed. At this park, the course of the road turns northwest through the mineral districts of Montana, following the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains, until, at Deer Lodge Pass, it crosses this range and follows on north- west in that portion of Montana west of the Rocky in ist )rn ien rest the >eer )rth- )cky r WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 629 mountains until it reaches Missoule Mills, near the eastern line of Idaho, where the road will branch, one line keeping on northwest until, at the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, it crosses in a direct westerly- line the northern end of Idaho and Washington Terri- tories, crossing the Columbia river, and on to Puget sound, along the eastern shore of which it passes west- ward to the great coal regions of Bellingham bay, close to the British line. At Missoule Mills, in the western slope of Montana, where the road branches, one line turns a little south of west, crossing Idaho, and, at its western line, crosses the Snake river at Lewiston, where it enters Washington Territory, and at old Fort Walla Walla crcrsses the Columbia river, upon the western side of which it passes through the fertile and beautiful country of the Columbia for one hundred and seventy miles to Fort Vancouver, thence turning di- rectly west, following the river, reaches Kalama, on the west bank of the Columbia, where ' .urns directly north through the rich valley of the Cowlitz to Olympia, where it joins the northern branch in its course westward to the British boundary: making the entire line, from Duluth, Lake Superior, by the branch via Vancouver, a total distance of two thousand miles to Puget sound, and by the northern branch, one thousand seven hundred and seventy-five miles. As a winter road, it is fair to conclude that no greater interruptions from snow will be experienced than pre- vail in any of the Atlantic States ; the whole line of road, from Duluth to Puget sound, has but an average elevation of two thousand two hundred feet, and the fall of snow is much less than it is one thousand miles farther south. In the whole length of the Union Pacific 630 THE GOLDEN STATE. road, from Chicago to San Francisco, during the severe winter of 187 1-2, t?i " only obstruction by snow was in the range of the Rocky mountains, at an elevation of from seven thousand four hundred to eight thousand feet above the sea, not an hour's obstruction occurring on any point as low as the highest point on the line of the Northern Pacific road. The national government, comprehending the import- ance of this international highway, has aided its construc- tion by donating to it almost twenty-three thousand acres per mile, or fifty million acres of land in the aggregate. The Northern Pacific road will make the route between Liverpool and the ports of Asia one thousand four hundred miles shorter than any 4ine now travelled, and place the great lakes of the interior and the Pacific ocean almost seven hundred miles closer together than the line of the Union Pacific ; and New York city three hundred and thirty-five miles nigher to Puget sound than to San Francisco. This northern road will be the natural outlet for the business soon to be developed in the rich valleys of the Red river, the head of the Mis- souri, Yellowstone, Assiniboin, and Saskatchewan, east of the Rocky mountains, and the rich fields of gold and agriculture in Montana, Idaho, Oregon, and Washing- ton Territory; and its terminus at Puget sound will be the connecting link of the immense Asiatic and Pacific trade passing east of the Rocky mountains, which will include the whaling and other fishing interests of the Pacific, soon to find their natural depot in the splendid and genial harbor of Puget sound. From Lake Superior to the waters of the Pacific in Washington Territory, on both sides of the Rocky moun- tains, is a vast region of unsurpassed fertility, where Ic in )un- lliere WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 6m wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, most of the hardier fruits, and every variet)' of berries and vegetables grow most abundantly : a deep, rich soil, millions of acres of which are ready for the plow ; forests of beauty and value, wide grazing ranges, rivers, lakes, and mines rich in gold, silver, copper, coal, and other minerals, almost eiitirely unoccupied. Here new communities and new States must be built; here is room enough for ^/(y million people. Who can contemplate the future great- ness of the new States of this region, and the national importance of its hidden treasures being brought close to our crowded centres by the tireless iron horse, whose ambition sets at defiance the rocks, ridges, and forests of the Rocky mountains I 632 THE GOLDEN STATA, CHAPTER XXXVIII. BRITISH COLUMBIA. Geography — History — Hudson Bay Company — Area — Islands — Mountains — Rivers — Lakes — Forests — Climate — Agriculture^ Valleys — Seasons — Rain — Bays — Harbors — Inlets — Natural re- sources — Gold and other minerals — Cities — Customs — Population — Natives — Commerce — Canadian railway. British Columbia is that portion of the Dominion of Canada lying west of the Rocky mountains, and washed on the west by the Pacific ocean. This is the only portion of the whole possessions of Great Britain on the Pacific, and embraces, besides the mainland of British Columbia, a number of islands in the Pacific, embracing Vancouver, in itself three hundred miles in length and sixty miles wide, Queen Charlotte, and numerous other islands, many of them of great size, and possessing valuable forests, a genial climate, abun- dance of fish in their waters, and game, and mines of gold, silver, copper, coal, and other minerals within their area. The colony of British Columbia was formerly a por- tion of that vast region known as the Hildson Bay Company's territory, which extended from Lake Supe- rior west and north to the Pacific and the Arctic oceans, and included at one time Oregon and Washington Territory, over all of which region the dominion of this once mighty company was absolute in commercial and military affairs, and in a portion of which the Hudson Bay Company still conducts their fur trade to considera- ble extent. r v. p n c t- c w 1 a 1 S( BRITISH COLUMBIA. 633 The present limits of British Columbia are west by the Pacific ocean and a portion of Alaska, north by the Arctic ocean, east by the Rocky mountains, and south by Washington Territory, in the forty-ninth degree of north latitude. From this point toward the northwest, the colony of British Columbia has a direct fron^^age of six hundred miles on the Pacific ; here a long tongue of Alaska, of six hundred miles in length and a hun- dred miles wide, extends along the coast toward the southeast, and cutting off six hundred additional miles of coast line from the colony. The total area of British lumbia, which now includes Vancouver island (lately separate colony) and a multitude of other islands, is estimated at three hundred thousand square miles. British Columbia is a succession of mountain chains, rugged peaks, plains, fertile valleys, dense forests, lakes, :» creeks, and dashing rivers, all making a varied, wild, and picturesque country, and, although still almost in its primitive condition, ve'*y desirable in many sections, affording rich agricultural fields and wide pasture- ranges, where cattle, horses, and sheep graze at large throughout the entire year. In the interior, and toward the eastern line of the colony, the mountains are high, and many peaks are perpetually clad in snow; but toward the Pacific side but little snow falls, and on the immediate coast line and the islands the climate is mild — milder than in any portion of the States of Virginia, Maryland, or Tennessee; and the same warm winds and ocean currents from the Pacific, which temper the whole seaboard of California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, keep the climate of the coast range of this section most inviting — so mild in winter that vegetables grow throughout the whole year, and so cool, yet so 634 THE GOLDEN STATE. charming, that the climate of the coast line and the islands is invigorating and delightful. In the greater portion of British Columbia, both islands and mainland, along the coast west of Washington Territory, the winter temperature varies little from an average of 40° ; spring, 48°; summer, 62°; autumn, 50°; and the annual temperature, 51°. Rains fall in this section about the same as in Oregon and Washington Territory, being dispersed more generally through all the seasons of the year than along the southern Pacific coast. About sixty inches of rain falls along the coast during the year, the greater part falling from November to Ap|:il, the rest of the year being comparatively dry. \ Along the sea-coast of the colony and the islands are the most charming navigable waters in the world. On the east end ol Vancouver island, and followed up to the Gulf of Georgia, is the charming inlet, so placid, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, separating Vancouver island from Washington Territory on the east; thence along the mainland, with Vancouver, Queen Charlotte, and other islands to the south, is a direct line of six hundred miles, indented witfc innumerable bays, harbors, rivers, inlets, and sounds, including Burard inlet, Howe sound, Jarvis canal, Toba inlet, Bute inlet, Vancouver and Queen Charlotte straits, and many others of great magnitude, with high, hanging, rugged mountain peaks, some bald and stern, others clad in perpetual verdure of forest trees, grasses and herbs, which mirror their beauties in the still waters, upon which float the fleets of Indian canoes, freighted with fish, furs, ivory, and bone for their commercial patrons — the Hudson Bay Company. In climate, beautiful waters, capacious har- bors, and safe anchorage, and wild, charming scenery, m thi th( frej th( an( chi< of of froi fishj vail andl qua! BRITISH COLUMBIA. 635 this coast is not surpassed on the continent. In all the rivers and bays salmon and other fish, of great size and superior quality, abound; and valuable fishing-grounds of cod, halibut, and other deep-sea fish exist off the coast. In the interior, elk, deer, bear, otter, martin, fox, mink, geese, ducks, trout, and a great variety of game of birds and beasts, and valuable fur-bearing animals, are found. In the interior of the colony many mountain peaks rise to great height, and are clad perpetually in snow. The Rocky mountains, forming its eastern boundary, are known in the colony as Selkirk mountains. Here, in latitude fifty-three north, Mount Brown stands six- teen thousand feet above the sea, and Mount Hooker has an elevation of fifteen thousand seven hundred feet. The course of the Rocky mountains is northward thiough the country until finally they reach the ice-bound shores of the Arctic ocean. So with the Sierra Nevada range in this region, although passing under other names, run through the whole length of the colony, parallel with the Rocky mountains, bearing with them their rich freight of the precious metals so abundantly diffused in the rich gold-mines of Cariboo, the Frazer, Thompson, and other rivers of British Columbia. Forests of great magnitude and value, consisting chiefly of fir, oak, cedar, and ash, abound in many parts of the country, and the fir trees often reach a height of from two to three hundred feet, straight and free from limbs, making a superior quality of lumber. The fish, fur, and lumber interests of the colony are very valuable ; while coal on Vancouver and other islands, and on the mainland, is abundant and of superior quality. Iron, lead, copper, gold, and silver also exist, 636 THE GOLDEN STATE. and the rich gold-mines developed in 1858 have con- tinued to yield abundantly, not being surpassed in rich- ness even in California or Australia. These mines are chiefly worked in the beds of the rivers, and banks and sand-bars on the Frazer, Thompson, and other rivers and their various branches, which produce free gold of great purity, and of late years quartz veins of great richness have been opened. During the last fourteen years the gold-mines of British Columbia have steadily yielded rich rewards to those engaged, (of course all do not succeed,) and, with about two thousand men employed, the mines now produce over two million dollars annually, and rich discoveries in bank, river, and quartz are being constantly made ; indeed, the country has not yet beea fairly prospected for the precious metals, and centuries hence will find hundreds of mil- lions of dollars of gold produced from the mountains and gulches of British Columbia. For stock-raising, the colony has many advantages in its wide ranges, covered with nutritious bunch-grass which grows luxuriantly, and its well-sheltered valleys and hill-sides rich in herbage and pasture ; and in the valleys of Bonaparte, Thompson, Nicola, and Frazer rivers, more than twenty thousand head of cattle run at large throughout the whole year, grazing upon the rich natural meadows of the country. British Columbia is well watered by numerous rivers, lakes, and creeks. The Frazer river is the chief one of the colony. It has its source high in the western slope of the Rocky mountains, close to the fifty-fifth degree of north latitude, running in a southerly direc- tion until, nearly opposite the eastern end of Vancouver island, it empties into the Gulf of Georgia, about four- maii disci ers theij ablel landl coui BRITISH COLUMBIA, ^Z7 the teen miles north of the line of Washington Territory, and passes into the Pacific ocean. This river is more than one thousand five hundred miles from its source to its mouth, and is navigable for large steamers for one hundred miles, and for an additional hundred miles for steamers of light draught; but its course is gener- ally over a very rough country, forming falls and rapids ; and the melting snoyirs of the interior so swell its cur- rent that at times, as it passes over its precipitate bed, and through deep, dark, and narrow gorges in the mountains, it is fearful, as in its mad career it forms eddies and whirlpools, which form deep holes, roaring and twirling as they suck down large floating trees, whirling, crashing, and tearing limbs and bark off. Such periods are very dangerous for small boats and canoes, many of whicli were, during the eventful gold excitement of 1858-9, with their whole crews, swallowed in those dreaded whirlpools. The material growth of the colony is not yet very great. For almost a century the country has been the great centre of the Hudson Bay Company, an English fur company of great magnitude and influence, which maintained their trading -posts from Labrador to the Pacific ocean, and still hold a footing in the country. At Forts Langley, Hope, and Yale, on the Frazer river, and at Victoria, Vancouver island, this company had maintained villages and posts of importance before the discovery of gold in 1858 ; from which points, by steam- ers and sail, the goods for traffic with the Indians found their way direct from London, and the annual and valu- able cargo of furs found an outlet on its way to Eng- land. At Victoria, which is on the eastern end of Van- couver island the Hudson Bay Company had, long 6r.s THE GOLDEN STATE. before the gold excitement of 1858-9, laid out, upon a beautifully situated elevation, at the waters of the har- bor of Victoria, the site of the present city of Victoria, now the capital of British Columbia. At that period, a strong fort, with upright posts of large hewn logs, of a height of fifty feet, with rifle-pits and mounted guns, were maintained around the large enclosure containing the officers* quarters, storehouses, merchandise, and furs ; and one or two steamers carried on the business of the company between this point and all parts of the coast. The officers of the company here, as well as throughout the whole coast, were chiefly Scotchmen, who worked their way overland from Canada at an early day, and, in their long sojourn in the wilderness, had married and intermarried with the native Indians; thus at once securing the friendship of the natives, facilitating traffic, and adapting the family-circle to the primitive order of life in their new rural homes. The late Doctor McLaughlin, of Oregon City, Oregon, a gentleman of high character and attainments, so long the head-factor of the Hudson Bay Company on the Pacific, and James Douglass, now Sir James Douglass, long head-factor at Victoria, and late Governor of Van- couver island, both married Indian squaws and raised families, who were educated in Europe, and, on their return to their forest homes, married with the whites. I do not know of a single case where any of the officers or employes of this company married a white woman ; all took wives of the Indian tribes of the coast or interion Victoria, in 1857, had a population of about one hundred persons. In 1858, so great was the excitement respecting the gold discoveries on Frazer river that is > o •») I n . o c & ta 5: t I ( c t t h a J t] w tl ir rt rn ol m Fj re be nc bL tei m; \vJ na the th< po Ch the anc shi BRITISH COLUMBIA, 639 real estate in San Francisco fell more than a hundred per cent, in a few months, and great depression was experienced throughout California. Four or five large ocean-steamers were employed to their utmost capacity to convey passengers and freight from San Francisco to Victoria, where more than sixty thousand gold- hunters had assembled in a few months, and the city of Victoria assumed scenes of excitement equalled only by San Francisco in 1849. The whole hill in the vicinity of the old Hudson bay fort and stores was for miles dotted with tents, as if a great army had invaded the land, and tlie great steamers, piles of goods, large booths of com- merce, drinking-saloons, gambling-houses, dance-houses, real estate and merchandise auctions, with the excite- ment of building boats and buying canoes, (a passage of from a hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty miles across the Gulf of Georgia, and thence up the Frazer river, had to be made before the mines were reached, and this in small open boats, most perilous both from the sea and the hostile Indians from the north,) all excited, racing to and fro, carrying boards, bundles, mining-tools, bedding, provisions, clothing, tents, whiskey, and every conceivable article, in their mad rush alike astonished the quiet Hudson bay men, who thought the whole world had gone mad, and the natives, who, awe-stricken, saw more men than they thought had existed in the whole world. After a while these awe-stricken Indians began to learn their own power, and tribes of red-haired savages from Queen Charlotte island and the whole coast came down in their immense wood canoes, (some of which are fifty and sixty feet in length, of the finest lines of a clipper ship, and carrying fifty to one hundred Indians,) and. 640 THE GOLDEN STATE. lying in wait in the Strait of Fuca, Bellingham bay, the Gulf of Georgia, and Frazer river, would attack small boats, rob them of their valuables, and murder all on board. Scores of these deluded gold-hunters, in 1858-9, lost their lives in this way, to say nothing of the loss by small, frail boats swamping in the rough waters of the gulf and in Frazer river. The Chinese were ob- jects of hatred, being regarded as bad Indians, and put to death at every opportunity. Victoria built up to a city of ten or twelve thousand people, in 1859, but soon the miners began to return in great distress and poverty. Goods in Victoria were only half the prices they had cost in San Francisco; real estate fell five hundred per cent, in a few months ; the city was almost depopu- lated, and has since remained a city of emptiness, with five houses empty for every one occupied. It now presents a. desolate aspect, with but little prospect of immediate improvement. The population is about four thousand, nearly half of whom are Americans. Churches, schccis, and a theatre are maintained; and a line of stearics runs regularly between San Francisco and Victoria, and also between Olympia, Puget sound, and other ports, and this place. The harbor at Victoria is small, and not accessible to vessels of great draught; but about four miles west of Victoria, on the south side of the island, is the harbor of Esquimalt, small, but with deep water, and overhanging with dense fir forests and rocks, making it well sheltered. Here all large vessels, as well as the ships of the British navy in this quarter, enter. Farther west, on the south side of the island, are the expansive waters of Barclay inlet, Nootka sound, and other harbors. On the northeastern end of the island, a litde north of Victoria, is the village Ir PI si e: C( tol EnJ of betj oftl thef of! BRITISH CO LI MB I A. 641 louth lall, |e fir •eall [vy in side I inlet, stern Tillage of Nanaimo, where extensive coal-mines are operated, the product of which, with the Bellingham bay coal of Washington Territory, finds a market in San Francisco and other sections of the coast. Between the east end of Vancouver island and Puget sound is the small island of San Juan, of little importance except as an object of contention between England and America to deter- mine the water-line through the Gulf of Georgia and Strait of Fuca, and to maintain a few lazy soldiers of both countries in the "joint occupancy" of the island.* Victoria is a free port, and about one thousand vessels enter and depart annually. All this section of country — its trade, natural wealth, and future develop- ment — naturally belong to the great port of Puget sound, and must eventually redound to the direct in- terest of that section and the Northern Pacific railroad. The population of the colony of British Columbia consists of about ten thousand whites and fifty thousand Indians, half-breeds, and mixtures between Indians and white men. The chief hunting and labor about the Hudson Bay Company's establishment are done by the Indians. Some of the tribes are very numerous and powerful; the men are tall, muscular, and large boned, skin about copper color, and long, flowing black hair, except that some of the tribes from the far northwest coast and Queen Charlotte island, who often visit Vic- toria in large canoes with their freights of fish, furs, * On the 24th of October, 1872, the Emperor William, of Gennany, jj whom England and the United States had submitted the final settlement of the ownership of San Juan island, rendered his decision, making the Canal De Haro the line between British Columbia and Washington Territory ; thus establishing the title of the United States to San Juan island. And on the 22d of November, 1S72, the British troops evacuated the island, leaving the Americans in full possession of San Juan. 642 THE GOLDEN STA^^E, bone, squaws, pappooses, and wolf-dogs, are very light colored, with smooth, copper-colored skin, and flowing hair, quite red. Few of the tribes ever molest the employes of the Hudson Bay Company, most of whom speak the language of the natives as their own, and are connected by marriage with some of the tribes; but with Americans and others they ars unreliable, deceitful, and murderous. About Victoria, Frazer river, and all parts of Puget sound, are found numbers of the Flathead Indians. The head is made flat while the child is young by Lish- ing it on a board on its back and lashing another boat a tight over the forehead, pressing the back of the head and the front above the eyebrows Hat, running to a broad, sharp point at the top, so that, if they put on a hat, it must go on crosswise. The child remains on the ])oard until the skull forms hard in its shape. God^ they say, wa« Flathead. The condition upon which British Columbia entered the Canadian confederation was, that the latter would, not later than July, 1873, commence the construction of the Canada Pacific railway, connecting the lakes and the St. Lawrence river with the Pacific side of British Columbia; which road will be about 2,700 miles in length, commencing at Lake Nippung, near Gcorgiana bay, and must be completed within ten years after its commencement. The government of Canatla and the government of British Columbia have donated to this internatiohai highway of the north la ge tracts of land, consisting of alternate blocks of twe.ity miles iii depth, along the line of the road ; besides .his, the Dominion government makes an appropriatior of twenty million dollars. :s m riana ter its d the lo this land, lepth, linion tillion BRITISH COLUMBIA. 643 In addition to the main line, two branches will be built —one from the main line to Lake Superior, and one from Manitoba to the American boundary, where a road already connects with Duluth, at the head of Lake Superior. The Pacific terminus of this road must be on the narrow tongue of land between the Frazer river and the northern line of Washington Territory, at which point it will be connected with the Northern Pacific railroad, now building; and that Washington Territory must eventually receive more direct benefit from this Canadian road than British Columbia must be clear to all familiar with the geography of the two sections. The completion of the Northern Pacific and the Canadian Pacific railroads will open up the rich agri- cultural and mineral resources of the vast region from the great lakes to the Pacific ocean, and inaugurate new channels of commerce and new organized communities, soon to join ia the union of States from the Arctic to the Rio Grande. 644 nJE GOLDEN STATE, CHAPTER XXXIX. ALASKA. History — Geography — Area — Mountains — Forests — Rivers — Seas — Bays — Harbors — Islands — Climate — Seasons — Mi le^ — Natives — Fisli — Animals — Fur-seals — Commerce — Po\ .''u: — Progress — Religion — Future prospects. lowns AuASKA, formerly known as Russian America, em- braces the extreme northwestern end of the continent of America ; bounded on the north by the Arctic ocean and on the west by the Pacific ocean and Behring strait, which separates it from Siberia and Asiatic Russia, from which at the narrowest point in the strait it is distant but about twenty miles. On the Arctic side, the eastern line terminates at Demarkation Point in the line of the one hundred and forty-fir -^t degree of west longitude from Greenwich, which cc rs'^, it follows south, dividing the Territory of Alask, 1, i/n British Columbia on the east, until it reaches Mo; , \, St. Klias, abo Jt sixty miles from the Pacific ocean, where it turns southeast, and in an irregular line follows the course of the coast, leaving a belt of mountain chain of about an average width of one hundred miles and about five hundred miles in length, until it reaches the one hundred and thirtieth degree of west Ion.,;, ude, a little north of Simpson river, and enters the. T\->::»fic ocean north of Graham and Queen Charlotte islands, thus cutting a strip of about, one hundred miles in breadth and five hundred miles Liijt off the western shore of British Columbia. From this point, in a southwesterly direction, the coast line of Alaska on the JMAPoF BRGTI6H irli!M COLOMIBIA ;«r^-'*'^^ •Soolii of Miles where ws the chain es and ties the ude, a rsiart.ds, niles in western It, in a 1 on the ALASKA. 645 Pacific Is a succession of bays, rivers, sounds, inlets, and islands, forming a chain of abrupt, rugged, irreg- ular coast of more than seventeen thousand miles in extent along the waters of the Pacific, following all the principal inlets and island lines until it reaches Behring strait. Chief among the islands are Prince of Wales, New Archangel, Sitka, and Kodiak, all east of the peninsula of Alaska, and the extensive groups of islands known as the Aleutian islands, extending through thirty degrees of longitude, and reaching almost across the Pacific ocean toward Copper and Behring islands on the Asiatic coast off the shore of Kamschatka. This vast chain of islands, more than a hundred in number, form a half-circle to the north, leaving between it and Behring strait, Bristol bay, and Behring sea, into which empties the Great Yukon, one of the mightiest rivers on the American continent, carrying in its course deposits which form at its mouth the greatest moorland in America, and gradually decreasing the depth of water in Behring sea. In the semicircle formed to the north by this chain of islands, and twelve degrees off the mouth of Bristol bay in Behring sea, are the islands of St. George and St. Paul, so famous for their valuable fur-seals. This terra incognita of the Northwest is yet totally unexplored ; and although its coast line on the Pacific has been long the active field of the Russian American Fur Company, and the whaling fleets of the United States, and more recently of the American fur-seal Iiunters and fishermen of the Pacific coast, but little has been seen of the vast interior region of this country, embracing an area of more \kidXiJive hundred tho:. sand square miles. 646 THE GOLDEN STATE. The early voyages of the Russian navigators, Beh- ring, Tschirikoff, and others, and the occupation of the Aleutian islands and the mainland by Russian merchants from Eastern Siberia, had given title of the country to the Russian nation, which, by treaty with Great Britain, in 1825, established its eastern boundary as now defined. Carteret, Byron, Willis, La Psrouse, Quadra, Vancouver, and many other early navigators, had explored the coast of Alaska ; and the famous Cap- tain Cook, in his voyage round the world, had explored much of the coast and many of the islands of this remote region. So, too, the search for the lamented Sir John Franklin and his party drew to the western shore of this section Moore, Kellet, Collison, McClure, and others, who have familiarized to us many of the important points, bays, and inlets of this quarter, as Point Barrow, Point Franklin, Icy cape, Cape Lisburne, Point Hope, Kotsebue sound. Cape Prince of Wales, Porte Clarence, Norton sou,"»J, Cape Romanzov, Cook straits, and Bristol bay, all north of the Alaska penin- sula and the Aleutian group. Alaska, formerly known as Russian America, had, from its discovery by the early Russian navigators, been in the possession of the Russian empire, whose dominions extend throughout so vast a portion of Europe and Asia. On the i8th of October, 1867, the government of the United States, by private purchase, and the payment of seven million two hundred thou- sand doMars in gold, received at Sitka, from the com missioners, formal possession and acquired title to Alaska, taking all the rights of the government and the control of the people ; leaving to the latter, how- ever, by stipulation of the 30th of March, 1867, the ALASKA. 647 right to remain in the country and become citizens of the new republican government erected over the late dominions of the Czar in America, or to return to the Russian empire. The language of the conditions is : "The inhabitants of the ceded Territory, according to their choice, reserve their natural allegiance, may return to Russia within three years ; but if they should prefer to remain in the ceded Ter- ritory, they (with the exception of the uncivilized tribes) shall be admitted to the enjoyment of all the rights, advantages, and immu- nities of citizens of the United States, and shall be maintained and protected in the free enjoyment of their liberty, property, and religion. The uncivilized tribes will be subject to such laws and regulations as the United States may from time to time adopt in regard to aboriginal tribes in the country." Thus the United States, in the possession of the vast Territory from Behring strait and the Arctic ocean to British Columbia on the west, and from the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico on the south and east, presses hard its British neighbor on flank and rear; and, as the imperial eagles of the Czar took flight before the stars and stripes on Alaska's lonely shores, so the British lion, before the advance of the new freedoms of the re- public and the growing power and progress of America, must soon leave his lair and join in the new order of national freedom, ultimately embracing the whole con- tinent of America north of the Isthmus of Panama, with the future canal of Darien as the southern boundary of the republic. The interior of Alaska is rough, mountainous, and wild in the extreme. The great range of the Rocky mountains, which, from Patagonia to the Arctic ocean, passes through the whole length of the continent, reaches the Arctic through British Columbia, as does the Sierra Nevada range; but successions of jagged peaks 648 THE GOLDEN STATE. and ranges dot the country, and along the entire coast of the Pacific a high range of mountains, from eight to ten thousand feet above the sea, covered with dense forests and enveloped in snows and fogs, lends a wild and uninviting aspect to the country. In this range stands the famous Mount St. Elias, in latitude 60° 22' and longitude 140° 54', elevated seventeen thousand nine hundred feet, overshadowing every mountain in America north of Popocatapetl, Mexico. Here, too, is situated Mount Fairweather, fourteen thousand seven hundred feet in height. Both these mountains are clad in perpetual snow and are seen at a great distance, standing above all other mountains and above the tall, dense forests. Both these mountains indicate marked evidence of their unquenched interior, volcanic forces. In the year 1839, Mount St. Elias emitted volumes of smoke, and, in 1847, flames and ashes. At this time there was a general volcanic disturbance of the earth on the whole Pacific coast north of Mount Baker, and throughout the Aleutian islands evidences of the for- mer existence of destructive volcanoes and earthquakes are still apparent. Alaska is well supplied with timber, and along a great portion of the coast are valuable forests of fir, oak, ash, cedar, and many other varieties. The cedar of Alaska grows to a great size, and is superior to almost any other wood in cabinet and house work. The Aleutian chain and all the other islands north of the peninsula of Alaska are destitute of forest or other trees, the natives building their huts of mud and stone, and using for fuel bone and the stray driftwood they pick up upon the shores, and building their canoes of skins. attr Alol pro] is ALASKA, 649 Rivers of great extent and dashing streams course from the interior mountains, and find their way, through rough gulches and long valleys, to the Pacific and Arc- tic oceans. The Yukon, one of the greatest rivers on the American continent, has its source in British Columbia, in longitude one hundred and thirty west, and with its ten mouths empties into Behring sea near Nor- ton sound, in the sixty-fifth degree of west longitude ; and, in its serpentine course, is more than four thousand five hundred miles in length, often swelling to four and even ten miles in width in its numerous arms, dotted with islands, and is, navigable for many thousand miles from its mouth. The Meloze, Porcupine, Nulato, and other streams ol magnitude empty into the Yukon. A great part of the Yukon passes through a low^country, and broad, low valleys, with willows, shrubs, and rich meadows of fine pasture-ranges, skirt it on either side, where vast herds of deer graze throughout the year. South of the Yukon is the Kouskoquim river, with its numerous branches, extending three hundred and fifty miles into the interior ; and south of the Aleutian penin- sula are a number of rivers of considerable magnitude, with interior valleys and rich forests. The Suschina, emptying into Cook's inlet, is more than two hundred and fifty miles in length, and the Copper river over two hundred miles ; and the Stekin, whose mouth is directly east of the island of Sika, extends into British Columbia three hundred miles. So far as yet ascertained, Alaska possesses but little attractions for immigrants or capacity for agriculture. Along the Pacific coast some small valleys which will produce vegetables, oats, and barley, are found ; but it is all far north of the line where wheat-growing or C50 THE COLDLN STATE. general agriculture could be successfully prosecuted. The summer seasons are short, damp, and cloudy, the rainfall at Sika and vicinity being about ninety inches per annum, the greatest in any part of the world ; As- toria, Oregon, comes next with an annual fall of seventy-eight inches. From- Behring strait to the eastern line of Alaska, on the sea-coast, but little snow falls; and although a portion of this range is as far north as Greenland, yet the warm currents and winds from Asia so modify the climate that in many portions of the low valleys vegetation is green all winter, and cattle could live at large without the aid of man \laska is particularly valuable for its forests of val ^ timber, mines yet to be developed — coal, gold, silver, copper, and other minerals — its game, and inland and water fur-bearing animals, and its valuable and vast fishing interests. Throughout the whole interior, on the banks of the Yukon and other rivers, and the islands, the Russian American Fur Company — ^a large body of Russian merchants, incorporated by royal authority in 1 799 — has built its posts, and for almost a century prosecuted a most extensive and profitable fur- trade. (The com- pany eiiisted many years before its incorporation.) Martin, sable, mink, otter, beaver, and other furs ob- tained, abound in the interior, and sea-otter and the valuable fur-seal are found on the islands and coast. Some idea of the extent of the Russian American Fur Company may be learned from the fact that two large steamers, several small ones, eight brigs and barques, and numerous small boats, were constantly employed, and about ten thousand Russians, Aleuts, and Esqui- maux were engaged on the coast and isla^ids, and six IS cauK in \ ALASKA. 651 thousand Koloschlans engaged in trafificking with the interior tribes for this company. The annual produc- tions of the company amounted to more tlian a million dollars. The islands of St. George and St. Paul, in 57° north, longitude 1 70° west, off the mouth of Bristol bay, in Behring sea, are the resort of the fur-seal, so long so valuable a source of profit to the Russian American Fur Company, and now, by act of Congress, made a source of revenue to the federal .government. By this act, approved July i, 1070, the government grants to the Alaska Commercial Company, composed of capital- ists of San Francisco and New York, the exclusive right to take fur-seal on the islands of St. George and St. Paul for the term of twenty years, from the i st of May, 1870, at an annual rent of fifty-five thousand dol- lars, and a tax or duty of two dollars and sixty-two and a half cents on each skin sold or shipped, and fifty-five cents on each gallon of seal oil, with twenty-five thou- sand dried salmon and other articles annually to the natives. The number of skins collected annually is restricted to one hundred thousand, which must be taken during the months of June, July, September, and Oc- tober of each year. Provision is made, however, for the natives of the islands being housed, clothed, fed, and educated, and for their taking, at all seasons, such seals for food or clothing as may be necessary. The late Major-General Thomas, in his official report on his visiting St. Paul and St. George in 1869, said: *' The number of seals on the islands, after the young are bom, is estimated all the way from five to fifteen million ; but they are countless, lying in the rookeries, covering hundreds 0/ acres, like sheep in a fen.** 652 THE GOLDEK STATE. The habits of these seals are peculiar. About the last of April, or early part of May, the old male seals come from the south, and land upon St. George and St. Paul, (the only islands inhabited by them.) After thoroughly examining the coast and interior of the islands for several days, soon millions begin to arrive, and, forming themselves into families, or colonies, led by the old males, they slowly make their way to the rookeries or secluded portions of the interior. The able-bodied males form a circle, inside of which they guard the females, keeping the young and the super- annuated males on the outside. The object seems to be to protect the females and their young. Fierce bat- tles ensue between the guardians of the families, and also with them and the old and young male seals kept on the outer circle. Under the regulations of killing these seals, only the young and old males on the outer circle are taken. The native hunters, armed with clubs, make their way along the outer circle of the families, and drive toward the interior the males on the outside of the families. Sometimes they drive them one or two miles; here, out of the r?,nge of the families, chey slaughter them by striking them on the head with their clubs, secure all the skins they can, and return the next day, to repeat the same operation, until the do^ired supply is obtained. The old males still keep guard over the females and their young until the young are able to take to the M^ater freely, when all make for the shore and sport on the rocks and in the waters, all mingling again indis- criminately, and remaining on the islands and on their shores until September or October, when suddenly they head south, abandon the islands, and are seen no n T. O > = 1; ''!;;;^:i arii iBP'^Hjifif ^■■mm..-' I 'I IRi'" ALASKA. 653 more until the following spring, when, as before, they repeat their family gatherings and births in the rook- eries ot St. Paul and St. George. It is not known where they go nor whence they come : doubtless they seek refuge in some of the islands off the Asiatic coast. The fur of these seals is very dark, fine, soft, and leautiful, like the finest black silk velvet, with a golden shade toward the skin. Long, coarse gray hairs stand out above this fine coat, and all skins are pick- elled, sent to London, England, (the only part of the world where they are dressed,) where, by a process of operating on the flesh side, all the long hairs are ex- tracted, and the skins dressed, leaving a soft, beautiful plush of great value and highly prized. Considering the crreat importance of the whale, walrus, sea-otter, sr on, cod, and other fisheries of Alaska, and the needed development of the r( sources of the country, both the constuuHonality and the cqtdty of the national government giving absolute and exclusive control of the islands of St. George and St, P..L1I. dieir valuable fur-seals and inhabitants, into the liands of a few capitalists, to the exclusion of all other citizens of the republic, may well be seriously questic^ed. The fur seal-skins which a few years since cm' be bought of the natives of the Aleutian islands for a dollar apiece are now sold when dressed, throughout the United States, at tiventy-five dollars each and upwards. The fur-seal of Alaska is not found in any other part of America. The seal so numerous off the coast of Newfoundland and vicinity, taken on the ice by fleets of steamers and vessels annually, are the common hair seal, brown and spotted — the skin and oil of each being worth only about three dollars. 654 THE GOLDEN STATE. The population of /ilaska is estimated at fifty thou- sand, less than two thousand of whom are white. On the cession of the country to the United States nearly all the Russian population left the country for St. Petersburg and Siberia ; but a few, however, still remain in the country. The Indian tribes composing the popu- lation are numerous, but are generally of a docile and submissive nature. So long have they been under the dominion of the Russian American Fur Company and the Greek church priests, chat submission has become a fixed part of their conduct. Few locate permanently, but in the interior live by the chase, and on the coast are largely employed in killing walrus, sea-otter, fur- seals, and fish. On the coast and islands they all be- long to the Greek church, and Russian and native priests attend to their spiritual wants and afford them some degree of education. The physical type and social qualities of the Japanese are strongly marked in many of the coast natives, from whom many of them, doubtless, have descended. The islands are generally barren rocks with but scant timber or vegetation, the natives living chiefly on rye and coarse bread furnished them by the fur-seal companies, seal-meat, and fish. The Alaska Commercial Company in possession of St. -George and St. Paul have made some effort to main- tain schools among the natives; but whether or not the condition of the natives (so called) under this monopoly is not a species of slavery of American citi- zens is a sub ect worthy the closest investigation and study of the national government. So far, no towns of any importance have been built in Alaska. Sitka, known as New Archangel, a little village of a dozen frail tenements, was the ancient or unc of sigr dilal hou] old and I chui an ul lect,[ troo ALASKA. 655 lent head-quarters of the Russians in Russian America. It is. built on one of the islanc^s of the coast, about nine degrees north of Queen Charlotte island, in the group discovered by Tschirikofif, Behring's associate, in 1741. It is geographically situated in latitude 57° 2' 45" north, longitude 135° if 10" west, and, although so far north, the weather is never cold, the thermometer rarely marking lower than 20° above Fahrenheit. The town is built on a low belt of land close to the shore, with the residence of the former Russ'an governor, a clumsy wooden building, standing upon a rock about one hun- dred feet above the other houses. The country in the vicinity is a succession of high hills densely wooded, and snow-capped mountains. On Crooze island, opposite the town, is Mount Edgcumbe, an extinct volcano, rising eight thousand feet above the sea. Sitka has made no progress in the last half century and with the exception of a few soldiers, and the United States custom officers, a few traders and Indians, and the old Russian Greek church, there is little to indicate setdement. There are no roads, either on the islands or mainland. The country has not yet been organized under a territorial government, and with the exception of the fishing interest being developed, there are litde signs of material improvement; and Sitka, with its dilapidated wharf, ancient Russian fort, old storehouses, houses painted yellow with iron roofs painted red, the old Russian hulks of ships on the shore propped up and roofed over, and the green dome of the old Greek church, with a few lounging soldiers and sleepy officers, an unemployed "collector," who has no customs to col- lect, an empty post-office, bauds of half-nude Indians, troops of wolf-dogs, and niftety inches of rain per annum, 656 THE GOLDEN STATE. makes Sitka, as a place, very desirable to leave. A newspaper, TLe Alaska Herald, (supposed to be pub- lished in Alaska,) intended to represent the interests of Alaska and Siberia and the North Pacific coast gen- erally, is issued at San Francisco. There are four post- offices in Alaska — one at Fort Tongass, one at Fort Wrangel, one at Kodiak, and one at Sitka. A steamer runs between San Francisco and Sitka, a distance of about one thousand six hundred miles, making a trip once a month ; and vessels leave San Francisco occa- sionally for this port, which has, during the past twenty years, supplied California with ice, this being the only point south of that place on the coast where ice could be obtained. Since the building of railroads in Cali- fornia, however, the lakes in the Sierras supply the greater part of the ice used in California. The extent and value of the fishing interests of the newly acquired territory are very great. Off the coast, besides the valuable fur-seals, vast banks of cod and halibut, extending over an area of thirty thousand square miles, exist in the eastern section of Behring sea and about the Aleutian islands and the Kodiak group ; and of late years fleets of fishing vessels leave San Francisco in June of each year, and take cargoes of cod and halibut in these waters and in the waters on the Asiatic coast along the line of Siberia, all the way from Plover bay to the Ochotsk sea. In this latter region, and along the coast of Kamschatka at Petropaulovski, and even in the region of the Amoor river, fishermen and traders from California extend their operations; and among a class of active, industrious, and in many cases prosperous people resident in these quarters, find hearty welcome and reciprocity in trade. This NATIVES HOUSEBUILDING, ALASKA. SKIN CANDE AND INDIANS, ALASKA. re P» of fa' pr of ha wii rei Ar Nc Ea hoi ofi Th( Arc Am the cod one seas the Ir now its M nort Pacil ships the I wela the/ ALASKA. 657 region, so^asy of access to the commerce and enter- prise of the Pacific coast, but so remote from the seat of power of the Czar at St. Petersburg, has long been a favorite prison for political offenders; consequently the present population is made up in great part of men of education, skill, and ambition, and in their new homes have lost none of their hatred of monarchy, and catch with eager hope every ray of liberty cast upon their remote shores by the flag that gives freedom to all in America. The development of Alaska will not begin until the Northern Pacific railroad connects Puget sound with the East, and a thrifty and numerous population find their homes in the great cities yet to be built on the shores of the magnificent inland sea of Washington Territory. Then the whaling fleets of the North Pacific and the Arctic will winter in Puget sound, and vast fleets of American vessels will draw from the shores of Alaska the hidden treasures of the deep — whale, walrus, seal, cod, halibut, and salmon. Mines ot gold and silver, once exhausted, never recuperate: the treasures of the seas are never diminished, but annually multiplied as the leaves of the forests. In the rich treasure-vaults of the deep, where, on the now lonely shores of Alaska, the illusive mirage paints its wondrous panorama, and the aurora borealis lights northern skies, will the future populous cities of the Pacific draw untold wealth, and fleets of American ships find employment; and on the placid waters of the Northern Pacific will the American seaman find a welcome refuge from the gales and winter frosts of the Atlantic seaboard. 43 658 THE GOLDEN STATE. CHAPTER XL. APPENDIX. Population of the United States : native, foreign, colored, and Chinese — Popula- tion of the Pacific coast : native, foreign, and Chinese — Population by counties of California, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Idaho, Washington Territory : also, aggregate of Alaska and British Columbia — Chinese in the United States and on the Pacific coast — Distances from San Francisco to various points inland and to various ports and countries and cities of the United States. POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES— 1870, Including all the States and Territories. Aggregate, 38,555,983. Native, 32,989,434; foreign, 5,566,546; colored, 4,880,009 ; Chi- nese, 63,149; Japanese, 55. POPULATION OF THE PACIFIC COAST, Embracing California, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Idaho, Washington Territory, British Columbia, and Alaska. Aggregate, 841,059. Native, exclusive of British Columbia and Alaska, 539,467; foreign, exclusive of British Columbia and Alaska, 289,652; Chinese on the Pacific coast, exclusive of British Co- lumbia and Alaska, and embracing Montana, 60,765; in the re- mainder of the whole Union, 2,389. POPULATION OF CALIFORNIA— 1870. Total, 560,247. Native, 350,416; foreign, 209,831. Representing the States and countries as follows : Native — Alabama, 1,257; Arkansas, 2,396; California, 163,653; Connecticut, 2,977; Delaware, 408; Florida, 134; Georgia, 1,024; Illinois, 10,689; Indiana, 5,190; Iowa, 5,367; Kansas, 279; Kentucky, 6,605; Louisiana, 1,979; Maine, 11,261; Mary- land, 2,596; Massachusetts, 15,334; Michigan, 3,032; Minne- sota, 461; Mississippi, 994; Missouri, 16,050; Nebraska, 237; Nevada, 1,089; New Hampshire, 2,720; New Jersey, 2,598 ; New York, 33,766; North Carolina, 1,640; Ohio, 12,735; Oregon, 2,471; Pennsylvania, 11,208; Rhode Island, 7,419; South Caro- lina, 851; Tennessee, 4,686; Texas, 1,886; Vermont, 3,500; Virginia and West Virginia, 5,293 ; Wisconsin, 3,088 ; Alaska, 28 ; Arizona, 93 ; Colorado, 60 ; Dakota, 7 ; District of Columbia, 458; Idaho, 84; Indian Territory, 19; Montana, 65; New Mexico, 175; Utah, 850; Washington, 206; Wyoming, 21. Colored, 4,272 Mem Merc Mon( Mom Napa Neva Place, Plum Sacra San San I San San San I San \ Santu POPULATION OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 659 The foreign population represents the nations of the earth as follows: Africa, 48; Asia, 56; Atlantic islands, 943 j Australia, i>S93J Austria, 1,078; Belgium, 291; Bohemia, 90; Canada, 6>977> China, 48,823; New Brunswick, 1,170; Newfoundland, 72 ; Nova Scotia, 1,438 ; Prince Edward island, 54 ; British Amer- ica, (not specified,) 949; Central America, 124; Cuba, 45 ; Den- mark, 1,837; France, 8,068; Germany, 28,700 — as follows: Baden, 2,143; Bavaria, 2,547; Brunswick, 61 ; Hamburg, 934 ; Hanover, 2,555; Hessen, 1,500; Lubec, 12; Mecklenburg, 95 ; Nassau, 49 ; Oldenburg, no; Prussia, (not specified,) 14,782; Saxony, 622; Weimer, 9; Wurtemburg, 1,461 ; Germany, (not specified,) 2,820; England, 17,699; Ireland, 54,421; Scotland, 4,949; Wales, 1,517; Greece, 97: Greenland, i ; Holland, 452; Hungary, 102; India, 63; Italy, 4,660; Japan, 33 ; Luxemburg, 11; Malta, 5; Mexico, 9,309; Norway, 1,000; Pacific islands, 93; Poland, 804; Por- tugal, 2,507; Russia, 540; Sandwich islands, 279; South America, 1,94.0; Spain, 405; Sweden, 1,944; Switzerland, 2,927; Turkey, 17; West Indies, 340. POPULATION OF CALIFORNIA BY COUNTIES— 1870. 3; ia, isas. jon, :aro- 500; 28; ibia, lico, 272 COUNTIBS. O H a rt o ■a o U B n c Countv-Skat. Alameda Alpine Amador Butte Calaveras , Colusa Contra Costa Del Norte El Dorado , Fresno •• Humboldt Inyo Kern Klamath Lake I..issen Los Angeles Marin Mariposa Mendocino Merced Mono Monterey Napa Nevada Placer Plumas Sacramento San Bernardino... San Diego San Francisco.... San Joaouin San Luis Obispo . . San Mateo Santa Barbara . . . . 24,».17 14,382 9,855 22,106 86 III 685 48s 200 676 1 .... 9,582 5.440 7.428 4. '33 7,870 •i"- .. . . ; ".403 3.975 9,'85 84 40 8,895 4,677 4,2.8 7.400 45 18 .6,165 5,088 '.077 5,389 81 424 8,461 5,79' 2,670 8,271 21 9 2,032 ',580 442 1,009 32 774 10,309 6,287 4,022 8,589 '33 6 6,336 4,972 ',364 3,259 IS 2,635 6,140 4,646 1,494 6,ojs .... 76 1.956 1,164 792 1,608 87 332 2.925 2,157 768 2,193 4 58 ■? 1,674 783 891 1,069 3 61 2,969 2,483 486 2,825 8 '7 1,327 1,178 '49 1,309 .... I 15,309 10,984 4,325 14,720 134 219 6,903 3,761 3,142 6,394 22 126 4,572 2,192 2,380 3.344 116 8 7.545 6,146 ',399 6,865 9 542 2,807 2,196 611 2,548 37 36 430 30s 125 386 .... 2 9,876 7,670 2,206 9.428 »5 203 7,»63 5,394 '.769 6,725 113 66 19, '34 10,479 8,655 '6,334 162 9 11,357 6,167 5.190 8.850 99 I 4,489 2,414 2,075 3.57' 3 5 26,830 16,228 10,6o2 22,725 ^1 38 3,988 3,328 660 3'g^J .... 495' 3,743 1,208 4,838 'S 38 149,473 75,753 ?3,72o 136,059 ',34' 55 21,050 14,824 6,226 19,192 230 . .. . ! 4,772 3,833 939 4,567 9 137 6,635 3.497 3, '38 6,099 10 7 7,784 6,538 1,246 7,483 109 163 l,9i3 8 1,641 2,094 1,432 271 160 217 1,581 427 39 29 143 542 110 17 336 361 1,104 129 186 42 130 260 2,629 2,407 3,598 16 70 12,018 1,628 59 5'9 29 San Leandro. Silver Mountain. Jackson. Oroville. San Andreas, Colusa. Martinez. Crescent Citv. Placerville. Millerton. Eureka. Independence. Havilah. Orleans Bar. I/akeport. Susanville. Los Angeleti San Rafael. Mariposa. Ukiah. Snelling. Iiridt;eport. Monterey. Napa City. Nevada City. Auburn. Quincy. Sacramento. San Bernardino. Sa:i Diego. San Francisco. Stockton. San Luis Obispo. Redwood City. Santa Barbara. 660 THE GOLDEN STATE. POPULATION OF CALIFORNIA BY COUNTIES— C<>«/i»f«*«/. COUNTIBS. •a 'A (2 i CoimTY-S«AT. Santa Clara. Santa Crui.. Shasta Sierra Siskiyou. ... Solano Sonoma . . . . Stanislaus .. Sutter Tehama.... Trinity Tulare Tuolumne... Yolo Yuba Totals 26,346 8,743 4.«73 5.619 6,848 16,871 19,819 6,499 5.030 3,587 3.a«3 4,5»i 8,150 9.899 10,851 560,333 «7.a4" 6.758 a.937 3,8i6 4.3" 11,363 15,656 5."47 3.949 a.834 1,398 3,967 4,183 7,778 6,144 9,005 1,985 1,336 3,803 5.608 4,»63 i,35» 1,081 1,815 3,968 3,131 4.707 34.537 8.53« 3.529 4.781 5,3" «5.87' 19,184 6,189 4.79» 3,166 ».95o 4,379 6.540 8.367 '79 S3 44 39 3* t 4 3« 146 39 ^ 69 I5« 13 3 36 47 8^ »39 4 3 117 1,518 156 1,457 919 306 308 375 »,o95 99 ».539 39» a.333 San Jose, Santa Cruz. Shasta. DownieviU*. Yr«ka. Fairfield. Santa Rosa. Modesto. Yuba City. Red BluC Weaverville. Visalia. Sonoi.i. Woodland. Marysville. 350,393 309,830 499.3»4 4,611 7,059 49.»»9 POPULATION OF OREGON— 1870. Total, 90,923. Native, 79,323; foreign, 11,600. Representing principally the States and countries as follows: Native — Arkansas, 491; California, 1,674; Connecticut, 263; Illinois, 4,722; Indiana, 3,451; Iowa, 3,695; Kentucky, 2,387; Maine, 676; Maryland, 330; Massachusetts, 756; Michigan, 466 ; Missouri, 7,061; New Hampshire, 219; New York, 3,092; North Carolina, 457; Ohio, 4,031; Oregon, 36,932; Pennsylvania, 1,921 ; Tennessee, 1,544; Vermont, 432 ; Virginia, 1,447 > Wisconsin, 434; Idaho, 144; Washington, 592. Colored, 346. Foreign — China, '3,326; Canada, 877; Nova Scotia, 86; British America, (not specified,) 124; France, 308; Germany, 1,875; England, 1,347; Ireland, 1,967; Scotland, 394; Italy, 31; Mexico, 51; Norway, 76; Poland, 65 ; Portugal, 48; Russia, 67; Sweden, 205 ; Switzerland, 160. COUNTIB Baker Benton. . . Clackamas Clatsop. . . Columbia. Coos Curry Douglas... Grant Jackson..., TOTAIS. 2,804 4,584 S»993 i»255 863 1,644 504 6,066 2,251 4,778 Nativx. 1,757 4,341 5,436 952 744 1,255 426 5,684 1,001 3,721 FORBiaN. 1,047 243 557 303 119 389 78 382 1,250 1,057 Chinbsb. 679 50 13 13 12 76 939 634 POPULATION OF THE PACIFIC COAST. POPULATION OF 0^1E.G0^— Continued. Counties. Josephine Lane Linn Marion Multnomah Polk Tillamook Umatilla Union Wasco , Washington , Yamhill Totals. Nativb. FORBIGN. 1,204 817 387 6,426 6,291 135 8,717 8,474 243 9,964 9,049 916 11,510 8,425 3,085 4.701 4,573 128 408 380 28 2,916 2,692 224 2,552 2,338 214 2,509 2,131 378 4,261 4,038 223 S,OI2 4,798 214 661 Chimbs B. 223 7 2 27 506 2 70 45 28 ICO, en. IMBSB. 679 50 13 12 76 939 634 POPULATION OF NEVADA— 1870. Total, 42,491. Native, 23,690; foreign, 18,801. Representing principally the States and countries as follows: Native — California, 2,360; Illinois, 1,141; Indiana, 520; Ken- tucky, 603; Maine, 1,083; Massachusetts, 998; Missouri, 1,053; Nevada, 3,352; New York, 3,265; Ohio, 1,858; Pennsylvania, 1,458; Virginia, 551 ; Utah, 954. Colored, 357. Foreign — Austria, 157; Canada, 1,952; China, 3,143; Nova Scotia, 231; Germany, 2,181; England, 2,549; Ireland, 5,035; Scotland, 630; Wales, 301; Italy, 199; Mexico, 225; Sweden, 217; Switzerland, 247. Counties. Churchill. . , Douglas ... Elko Esmeralda. Humboldt. Oander. . . . Wincoln . . . Nyon Lrye Stomsby . . . Wop oLry Rashoe . . . , Lhite Pine. Totals. I L 196 1,215 3,447 1,553 1,916 2,815 2,985 1,837 1,087 3,668 133 ",359 3,091 7,189 Native. FORBICN. 140 56 791 424 2,054 1,393 1,065 488 1,065 851 1,580 1,235 2,148 837 893 944 760 327 1,760 1,908 108 'S 5,557 5,802 1,997 1,094 3,772 3,41/ Chinese. 16 23 439 56 220 218 23 116 6 767 4 745 221 292 662 THE GOLDl STATE. POPULATION OF UTAH— 1870. Total, 86,786. Native, 56,084; foreign, 30,702. Representing principally the States and countries as follows : Native — Alabama, 145 j California, 308; Connecticut, 234; Illinois, 2,105; Indiana, 399; Iowa, 1,492; Kentucky, 317; Maine, 239 ; Massachusetts, 492 ; Michigan, 228 ; Mississippi, 125 ; Missouri, 908; Nebraska, 272 ; New Hampshire, 165 ; New Jersey, 322; New York, 2,247; North Carolina, 215 ; Ohio, 1,133; Penn- sylvania, 1,315; Tennessee, 40=5; Texas, 104; Vermont, 325; Virginia, 287; Wisconsin, 117; Utah. 41,250. Colored, 118. Foreign — Australia, 74; Africa, (white,) 128; China, 445; Canada, 566; New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, in; Denmark, 4,956; France, 63 ; Prussia, 152 ; Germany, 206 ; England, 16,073 ; Ireland, 502 ; Scotland, 2,391 ; Wales, 1,783 ; Holland, 122 ; Italy, 74; Norway, 613; Russia, 13; Sweden, 1,790; Switzerland, 509. Counties Beaver , Box Elder Cache Davis Iron Juba Kane Millard Morgan Piute Rich Rio Virgin Salt Lake. San Pete Sevier Summit Tooele Utah Wasatch Washington , Weber. Totals. Native. FORBIOM. 2.007 1,405 602 4,855 2,795 2,060 8,229 5,121 3,108 4.459 3,010 1,449 i,277 1,610 667 2,034 1,344 690 1,513 1,292 221 2,753 1,974 779 1,972 1,215 757 82 54 28 1,955 1,291 664 450 368 82 i8»337 10,894 7,443 6,786 3,890 2,869 19 .... 19 2,512 1,448 1,064 2.177 1,350 827 12,203 8,439 3,764 1,244 887 357 3,0^' \ 2,455 609 7,858 5,242 2,616 Cminesb. 403 39 o so 2 O 9> H s >- POPULATION OF ALASKA— 1870. Estimated at 50,000 Indians and 3,000 whites. * T R Ohi. mar 495 Mol Pirn Yav Yun T R ticul Ken Micl New Oref Verr 478 i 335 i Engl Ada Altui Bois( Idah LemI Nez: Onei Owyl Shosl POPULATION OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 663 POPULATION OF ARIZONA— 1870. Total, 9,658. Native, 3,849; foreign, 5,809. Representing principally the States and countries as follows: Native — Arizona, 1,240; California, 156; New York, 481; Ohio, 235 ; Pennsylvania, 275. Colored, 26. Foreign — Austria, 24; British America, 143, China, 20, Den- mark, 19; England, 137; France, 69; Germany, 379; Ireland, 495; Scotland, 54; Sweden, 14; Switzerland, 23. Counties. Totals. Nativb. Foreign. Chinbse. Mohave 179 5.716 2,142 1,621 122 1,900 1,208 619 57 3,816 934 1,002 Pima Yavapai 12 Yuma 8 POPULATION OF IDAHO— 1872. Total, 14,999. Native, 7,114; foreign, 7,885. Representing principally the States and countries as follows : Native — Alabama, 26 ; Arkansas, 24 ; California, ^Tfi ; Connec- ticut, 59; Georgia, 23; Illinois, 400; Indiana, 2)^^\ Iowa, 312; Kentucky, 243 ; Maine, 242 ; Maryland, 65 ; Massachusetts, 200 ; Michigan, 69; Missouri, 536; Nebraska, 27; New Hampshire, 54; New Jersey, 49; New York, 800; North Carolina, 44; Ohio, 550; Oregon, 347; Pennsylvania, 416; Tennessee, 109; Texas, 26; Vermont, 75; Virginia, 175 ; Wisconsin, 118; Idaho, 925 ; Utah, 478 ; Washington, 47. Colored— (hj. Foreign — Atlantic islands, 71; Austria, 26; British America, 335; China, 4,267; Denmark, 88; France, 144; Germany, 599; England, 540; Ireland, 986; Scotland, 114; Wales, 335; Italy, II ; Mexico, 43; Norway, 61 ; Sweden, 91 ; Switzerland, 52. COUNTIBS. Ada , Altures Boise Idaho Lemhi ... Nez Percys Oneida. . . , Owyhee... ShoshoiK . Totals. Nativb. FoRBICN. 2»675 2,178 497 688 286 403 3*834 1,183 2,651 849 205 644 988 509 479 1,607 609 99S 1,922 1,189 733 i»/i3 862 851 723 1 91 629 Chinbsb. 78 314 1,754 425 120 747 368 46S 664 THE GOLDEN STATE. POPULATION OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY— 1870. Total, 23,955. Native, 18,931 ; foreign, 5,024. Representing principally the States and countries as follows : Native — Arkansas, 98; California, 400; Connecticut, 120; Georgia, 24 ; Illinois, 967 ; Indiana, 806 ; Iowa, 749 ; Kansas, 34 ; Kentucky, 403 ; Louisiana, 59 ; Maine, 858 ; Maryland, 102 ; Massachusetts, 400; Michigan, 114; Minnesota, 63; Missouri, 946 ; Nebraska, 26 ; New Hampshire, 96 ; New Jersey, 86 ; New York, 1,097; North Carolina, 71; Ohio, 866; Oregon, 1,615; Pennsylvania, 527; Rhode Island, 54; South Carolina, 28; Tenn- essee, 196; Texas, 44; Vermont, 163; Virginia, 311; Wisconsin, 20J ; Idaho, 76; Montana, 44; Utah, 30; Washington, 5,964. Color ti — 207. Foreign — Australia, 37; Austria, 19; British America, 970; China, 234; Denmark, 84; France, 113; Germany, 645; En- gland, 791; Ireland, 1.097; Scotland, 309; Wales, 44; Holland, 25; Italy, 24; Mexici , 12; Norway, 104; Poland, 25. Counties. Chehalis. ........ Clallam Clarke Cowlitz Island Jefferson King Kitsap Klikitat Lewis Mason Pacific Pierce Skamania Snohomish Stevens Tiiurston Wahkiakum Walla Walla Whatcom Wakima Island of San J uan Totals. Nativb. Foreign. 401 381 20 408 274 134 3,081 2,606 475 730 645 85 626 400 226 1,268 690 578 2,120 1,605 515 866 434 432 329 289 40 888 779 109 289 225 64 738 591 147 1,409 1,144 265 133 108 25 599 413 186 734 488 246 2,?r46 i>93i 315 270 190 80 5' 300 4,692 608 534 341 193 432 410 22 554 293 259 Chinbsb. I 7 19 II 13 I I 6 7 3 42 19 15 42 21 POPULATION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA— 1870. Estimated at 50,000 Indians and 10,000 whites. Calc Calla Cantc Cape Juay; Half Hong Hone Jeddc Kanaj La P.I Liver] Manz! Mazat Melbc MonU TABLES OF DISTANCES. 665 DISTANCES FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO VARIOUS POINTS INLAND. Alameda 9 Alviso 46 Alta 186 Auburn 152 Austin 437 Benicia 30 Big Trees 198 Bridgeport 289 Carson City 255 Cisco 209 Colfax 171 Colusa 192 Copperopolis 155 Crystal Springs 23 Diamond Springs.... 164 Downieville 232 Dutch Flat 184 Eureka 230 Fairfield 50 Folsom 139 Fort Yuri\a 732 Fort Point 4 Genoa 141 Geyser Springs 118 Goat Island 1% Great Salt Lake City, 827 Havilah 450 Haywards 19 Healdsburg 80 Miles. Humboldt Lake 345 Jackson 1S5 Lake Tahoe 228 Lone Mountain 3 Los Angeles 480 Lower Lake 120 Mariposa 211 Mp.i7sville 171 Martinez 33 Mare Island 28 Millerton 175 Mokelumne Hill 180 Mountain View 38 Monte Diablo 44 Napa 50 Nevada 182 New Castle 148 New Alnaden 67 Oakland 7 Oroville , 196 Pachcco 38 Petaluma 48 Pino.. 142 Placerville 167 Red Bluff. 247 Redwood 31 Rio Vista 73 Ruby Valley 440 Sacramento 117 Miles. San Andreas 170 San Bernardino 500 San Juan South 94 San Jose 51 San Leandro 15 San Mateo 20 San Quentin 12 San Rafael 12 Santa Clara 47 Seal Rock 6 Silver Mountain 257 Snelling 187 Sor.ora 187 Sonoma 52 Stockton 117 Suisun 50 Sutterville 114 Vallejo 28 Visalia 308 Warm Springs 37 Weaverville 365 White Sulp. Springs, 67 Willow Springs 686 Woodbridge 85 Yosemite Valley 247 Yreka 400 Yuba City 167 DI&,TANCES FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO VARIOUS PORTS. 3 12 15 Miles. Acapulco, Mexico 1,840 Anaheim, California 312 Calcutta, via Honolulu 1I1380 Callao, Peru 4,010 Canton, via Honolulu 7i097 Cape San Lucas, Mexico i>4SO Juaymas, " l>530 Half Moon Bay, California 46 Hong Kong, via Honolulu /,ooo Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands... 2,080 Jeddo, Jap.in 5iOoo Kanagawa, Jap.in 5,000 La Paz, Mexico 1,300 Liverpool, via Cape Horn •3iJoo Manzanillo, Mexico i>550 Mazatlan, " i>390 Melbourne, via Honolulu 7fi6o Monterey, California 86 Miles. New York, vi? Cape Horn 14,000 New York, via Panama 5. 287 Panama, New Grenada 3,260 Rio Janeiro, Brazil 8,320 San Bias, Mexico l>470 San Diego, California 450 San Pedro, " 380 •San Buenaventura, California... 325 S.-xn Luis Obispo, " ... 205 Santa Barbara, <• ... 292 San Simeon, " ... 165 Santa Cruz, " ... 64 Shanghai, via Honolulu 6,740 Sydney, via Honolulu 6,700 Tahiti, Society islands 4>490 Valparaiso, Chili S»3c>o Yokohama, via Honolulu 5)5^0 666 THE GOLDEN STATE. DISTANCES FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO VARIOUS POINTS VIA CENTRAL AND UNION PACIFIC RAILROADS AND THEIR CONNECTIONS. San Francisco to Chicago, 2,406 ; St. Louis, 2,388 ; Baltimore, 3,232; Philadelphia, 3,230; New York, 3,30c; Boston, 3,540. West from Omaha. Elevation. Distance. 966 1,686 133 1,850 '54 2,789 291 3.500 377 4.073 414 6,041 516 8,242 549 7ii23 578 6,550 645 6,732 709 6,685 785 6,340 858 6,879 966 4,340 1,032 4,905 1,084 5,970 1,214 4,903 1,330 4,508 1,391 4,331 1,451 4,077 1,587 4,507 1,622 5,845 1,656 7,017 1,671 5,939 1,684 3,612 1,707 2,421 1,722 30 1,775 23 1,822 48 1,897 12 1,908 XI 1,911 1,914 Omaha Lone Tree Grand Island , North Platte , Julesburg , Sidney , Cheyenne < Sherman, (summit of Rocky mountains) Laramie Medicine Bow Rawlings , Bitter Creek Bryan , Wahsatch Ogden, (head of Salt lake) '. Promontory Toano Carlin Battle Mountain Winnemucca Wadsworth . . , Reno Truckee Summit (of the Sierra Ncvadas) Cisco Aha Colfax Sacramento Stockton San Leandro Brooklyn Oakland Wharf San Francisco. East prom San Fkancisco. 1,914 1,782 1,760 1,623 1,537 1,500 1.398 1,365 1,341 1,269 1,205 1,129 1,056 948 S82 830 700 584 523 463 327 292 258 243 230 207 192 »'7 90 »5 8 3 8 in "^ 1 DIS Bolii Poin Tom Bod< Poin Men Poin Cape Fals< Tabl Hum Trini Cres( Rogv Port Cape Cape Dlnp< Cape Cape Cape TABLES OF DISTANCES. 667 DISTANCES ON THE COAST NORTH FROM SAN FRANCISCO- SHORTEST SAILING ROUTE IN NAUTICAL MILES. MI LBS. Bolinas Point, Cal Pfiint Reves. " 19 36 Tnmnles " AS ■RftHpcra Point. " S4 Point Arenas. " lOS Mendocino Citv. " ..• ... 126 Point Gordo. " .... 188 Pane Mendocino. " 201 Fa se Caoe. " 206 Table Bluff. " 217 Humboldt Bar. " 2,2X Trinidad Head. " ... 241 Crescent Citv. " 28^ Rogue river, Oregon Port Orford. " - 325 Caoe Blanco. " ... vA Cane Ara?o. " x2n UVnooua. " ... 410 Caoe Pemetua. " iU.7 Cane Foulweather. " ... A74. Cape Lookout, " 510 False Tallamook, Oregon 536 Tallamook Head, " 547 Astoria, " 560 Cape Disappointment " 567 Vancouver, Washington Terr.,,, 635 Portland, Oregon 670 Port Angeles, Washington Terr,. 740 Victoria, Vancouver island 746 Esquimau, *< 760 Port Townsend, Washington T„ 770 Bellingham bay, " „ 800 Seattle. " •• 810 New Westminster, British Col... 815 Steilacoom, Washington Terr,,.. 840 Olympisi, " ,,,. 860 New Archangel, Sitka island 1,290 Sitka, Alaska 1,480 Kodiak, " 2,030 Onalaska " 2,591 St. Paul's island, Alaska 2,821 Cape Prince of Wales 3.341 663 THE GOLDEN STATE. CENSUS OF CITIES— 1870. The following table contaTns the population of each of the one hundred and thirty-four largest cities in the United States. It shows all the cities having a population of ten thousand and upward : 9- 10. Il- ia. 13- 14. 15- 16. 12: •o. •I. •a. •3- «4- •5. t6. «7- a8. «9- 30- 3'- 3»- 33- 34. 35. 36. P: 39- 40. 4>. 4a- 43- 44. 45- 46. %. 49- 50- 5>. Sa. S3- 54- 55- S6. 'I I?; 61. 6a. 63 64. 6-v 66, 67 Crrv. Stat*. PoroLAT'w. New York New York .- 943,993 Philadelphia. . . Peniwylvania. 674,033 Brooklyn New York 39^>°99 Sr. Loulf Missouri 3io,t64 Chicago Illinois 398,977 Baltimore Maryland 367,354 Boston Maisachuscttt .... 350,536 Cincinnati Ohio 316,339 New Orleans.. Louisiana 191,418 San Francisco. .California <49>473 Buffalo New York... ..... 117,714 Washington.... District Colui ibia. 109,199 Newark New Jersey 105 ,059 Louisville Kentucky 100,753 Cleveland Ohio oa ,839 I^i ttsbure Pennsylvania 86,076 {ersejr City... .New Jersey 83,546 )etruit Michigan 79>577 Milwaukee Wisconsin ••• 71,440 Albany New York 69,4a3 Providence ....Rhode Island 68,904 Rochester New York 62,386 Alleghany Pennsylvania S3>'^ Richmond Yirginla 5' •038 New Haven. , . . Connecticut 50,840 Charleston South Carolina. . . . 48,956 Indianapolis . . .Indiana 48,244 Troy New York 46,465 Syracuse New York 43t05i Worcester Massachusetts .... 41,105 Lowell Massachusetts .... 40,928 Memphis Tennessee 40,226 Cambridge Massachusetts .... 39,684 Hartford Connecticut 37. '80 Scranton Pennsylvania 35 ."9a Reading Penns ylv.inia 33,930 Paterson ..New Jersey 33,579 Kunsas City.. . . Missouri 3a,a6o Mobile Alabama 32,034 Toledo Ohio 31,584 Portland Maine 31,419 Columbia Ohio •••.. 31,374 Wilmington... .Delaware 30,841 Dayton Ohio 30,473 Lawrence Massachusetts .... 38,931 Uliea New York 38,804 Charlestown... Massachusetts .... 38,333 Savannah Georgia 28,335 Lynn Massachusetts .... 38,233 Fall River Massachusetts.... 36,768 Springfield Massachusetts .... *6,7o3 Nashville Tennessee 35,865 Covington Kentucky 34,505 Quincy Illinois 94,053 Manchester. . . .New Hampshire. . 33,536 Harrisburg Pennsylvania 33,104 Peoria Illinois 33,849 Evansville .... .Indiana ai ,830 Atlanta Georgia 31,789 Lancaster Pennsylvania ai ,295 Oswego, ...... .New York • 30,910 Elizabeth New Jersey 30,833 Hoboken New Jersey 90,397 Poughkeepsie. .New York 30,080 Davenport Iowa 30,038 St. Paul Minnsoia 90,030 . Erie Pennsylvania. 19.646 City. Statb. Populat*!!. 68. 69. 70. 7'- 7a. 73- 74- 75. 76. 77- 78. 81. 8a. 83. 84. 85. 86. 87. 88. 89. 90. 91. 9a. 93- 94- 95. 96. 98. 99- 100. loi. loa. 103. 104. 105. 106. ro2: 109. no. III. iia. 113. 114. "5. 116. 117. 118. 119. lao. I3t. laa. 133. 134. 135. 136. 137. 138. 139. 130. 131. 133. »33- 134- St. Joseph Missouri Wheeling Wrst Virginia Norfolk Virginia Bridgeport Connecticut Petersburg Virginia Chelsea Massachusetts ... . Dubuque Iowa Bangor .Maine Leavenworth. . .Kansas Fort Wayne... .Indiana Springfield Illinois Auburn New York Newburg New York Norwich Connecticut. ...... Grand Kapids. .Michigan Sacramento . . . .California Terre Haute.. . .Indiana Omaha Nebraska Williamsport . . . Pennsylvania Elmira New York New Albany... .Indiana Augasta Georgia Cohoes New York Newport Kentucky Burlington Iowa Le.xington Kentucky Burlington Vermont Galveston Texas Lewiston Maine Alexandria Virginia Lafayette Indiana Wilmington . . . .North Carolina. . . . Haverhill Massachusetts . . . . Minneapolis Minnesota Sandusky Ohio Salt Lake Utah Keokuk Iowa Fond du Lac . . .Wisconsin Bingharapton...New York Oshkosh Wisconsin Vicksburg Mississippi San Antonio. . . .Texas Concord New Hampshire. , Des Moines.. . .Iowa Jackson Michigan Georgetown . . . .District Columbia, Aurora Illinois Hamilton Ohio Rockford Illinois Schenectady ... New York Rome New York Waterbury Connecticut Macon ........ . Georgia , Madison Indiana Altoona Pennsylvania Portsmouth . . . .Ohio Montgomery . . .Alabama Nashua New Hampshire.. Oakland California Portsmouth Virginia Biddeford Maine Hannibal Missouri , Ogdensburg . . . .New York Stockton California Council Bluffs. . Iowa ZanesviUe Ohio Akron Ohio , 19,566 19,280 19,239 l8,y69 18,950 •8,547 >8,434 18,289 '7.873 I7,7'8 17.335 17,014 '6.653 '6,507 16,283 16,103 16,083 16,030 '5,3«3 '5,39.? '5..189 '5,3.S7 15.087 '4.930 14,801 I4.i87 '3.8i8 13,600 '3.570 '3.506 '3.446 '3.093 13,066 13,000 12,854 ia,766 12,764 12,693 I a, 66a '3,443 13,356 13,241 13,035 ",447 ".384 ii,i6a ii,u8i 11,046 11,026 11,000 io,8;6 10,810 10,709 10,600 10,593 10,588 '0.543 10,500 10,49a 10,28a 10,125 10,076 »o,o66 10,020 10.01 1 10,005 ANALYTICAL INDEX. Across the Continent, 358-367. Ac.RicuLTURE, early, in California, 87, 130-143. Lands in California, 154. Flowers and seasons, 304-308. Agricul- ture and commerce, 309-3 1 7. Vegetables, fruits, and nuts, 324-334. Colleges to promote, 388. Of each county in the StateofCnlifomia, 443-523. In Oregon, 529-538. Wheat, cattle, horses, &c.» 537-539- In Nevada, 544-546- In Utah, 551. In Alaska, 649. In Idaho, 609-612. In Washington Territory 622-631. Alameda county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, cities, population, &c., 488-490. Alaska explored, 36 ; settled, 65. Russijp American Fur Company, 65. Sold to the United States, 70-7 1 . Area, cli mate, mountains, rivers, forests, mines, islands, cities, population, resources, &c., 656. Population, 663. Alkaline lakes, 172. All nations represented in the State prison, 408-413. Alcatras island, 195. "All of one flesh," 135, 141. Almonds, nuts, and fruits, 330-332. Alpine county, area, soil, climate, moun- tains; population, &c., 512-513. Alvarado and Castro's rebellion, 60. Amador county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, population, &c., 511-512. America, colonization of, 33-39. North- men in, 34-35. South and Central ex- plored, 35-38. Operations in California, 60-62. Influence in California, 67-72 ; Oregon, 71-76. Citizens in trouble in California, 75-79. Vessels on California coast, 76-77. Citizens of, in California, 86-89. nag hoisted in California by Sli^at, 94-96 Flag hoisted over San Francisco by Montgomery, 96-97. Ac- quisition of territory, 86-115. Rule in California, 1 16-130. Influence in Japan, 423- American river, 183. Amerigo Vespucci names the new world, 35- Angel island, 195. ApachE'= in Arizona, 604. ArosTc . JS Valerianos discovers Strait of Fuca, 616-620. Appendix, population ?f United States, Pacific coast, and all its Spates and Terri- tories, 658-665. Apples and other fruits, 327-331. In Oregon, 537-539- Arguello, Jose, commandant at San Francisco, refuses admission to American vessels, 68-69. Arizona, Chinese in, 422. Newspapers in, 465. Area, soil, climate, rivers, forests, mountains, mines, resources, population, &c., 600-606. Population by counties, 662. Arizona, gold product of, 267. Ashley, W. II., with Astor in the fur trade, 75. Asphalti;m and its uses, 209, 277. Astoria founded, 71-76. English occupy, 7 1-76. Formally surrender, 74. Call it Fort George, 74. Commodore Wilkes at, 81-82. Rainfall at, 300, 529. Astor, John Jacob, founds Astoria, 71-76. His fur company, 71-74. Dissolution of his fur comp.any, 74-75. Establishes another company, 74-76. Fur company in the Rocky mountains, 75. (M0) 670 THE GOLDEN STATE. Atlantic and Pacific railroad, 603-604, Australia, gold discovered, asj. Yield of mines, 267-270. Austria, mining in, 273, Aztecs in Mexico, 34. Balboa discovers the Pacific ocean, 35. Banishment of Mexican authorities, 61- 62. Barley product of California, 322. In the several counties, 443-523. Baron Horton's account of Great Salt lake, 560-562. Bay of San Francisco discovered, 37-43. Of San Diego and Monterey discovered, 43-45. Discovered by Don Caspar Por- tala, 49-51. First vessel to enter, 51. Francis Drake did not discover, 42-44. Captain John Brown ordered to leave, 6S-69. First steamboat on, I18-125. Islands in, 194-198. Bays and harbors in California, 190-201. " Bear flag" in California, 90-93-96. Beaver makes a voyage to Russian Amer- ica, 72-73- Bees on the Pacific coast, 244. In Cali- fornia, 354. Beet sugar, 339. Regging as a profession, 400-402. Behring in the Pacific ocean, 36, 65. Beliingham bay and vicinity, 619. Benevolent and aid societies, 4^0-402. Berries and fruits, 327-331. Big trees and vegetable growths, 157, 163- 166. Birds, 241. Blind, deaf, and dumb, schools for, 395. Bodega bay settled by Russians, 59. Ex- tent and location, 197. Boise, Lewiston, and other cities of Idaho, 612. BOLINAS bay, 19JJ. Boundary between United States and Canada, 72. Books, newspapers, libraries, and litera- ture, 396-400. Book of Mormon, its origin and influence, 568-600. Borax and its collection, 277. Boston merchants on the Pacific coast, 6'->-8o. Boston, ship, on the Northwest coast, 69. Bravo river, 134. Brazil discovered, 35. Bridger, James, discoverer of Great Salt lake, 561-562. British Columbia, gold yield of, 267 Its history, area, soil, mountains, rivers, islands, forests, climate, productions, mines, progress, cities, resources, &c., 632-643. Population of, 664. British naval vessels in the Columbia, 69- 70. Occupy and claim Oregon, 72-76. Formally surrender, 74-75. Seek to secure California, 93-99. Brooklyn, Mormon ship, at San Francis- co, 116. Broughton, captain in British navy, in *he Columbia river, 69-70. Brown, John, ordered out of California, he remonstrates, 68-69. First American in California, 79. Buddhism, the religion of the East, 430- 437. And other religions of the world, 563-569. Buena Vista lake, 179. Bull and bear fights, 237-238. Buried, Chinese never, in America, 434. Butte county, area, soil, climate, resources, population, &c., 478-479. Cabot in Newfoundland, 35. Cabrillo in California, 36, 42. California, unknown, 34. Cortez in, 36. Ciibrillo explores, 36. Drake on the coxst, 36. Viscayno in, 36. Spanish and other navigators in, 35-39. Jesuits and Franciscan friars, 37. Spanish rule in, 37. Gold discovered, 38-39. Ameri- can rule in, 38. Pilgrim gold-seeker? in, 38-39. First account of, 40-49. Ac- quisition by America, 40-47. Cortez's ANALYTICAL INDEX. 671 7. Cortez'i expeditions, 41-48. Cabrillo in, 42. Francis Drake takes possession of, 42- 43. Calk-d New Albion, 42. Called •* Drake's land back of Canada," 43. Philip, King of Spain, interested in, 43-47. Spiritual conquest of, 44-49. Father Ugarta in, 46-47. Gulf of, ex- plored, 46-47. " Planting the cross" in, 40-49. Missions established in, 40-49. Jesuits expelled from, 47-48. First set- tlement in, 49-51. End of Spanish rule in, 55-59. Always unsettled, 58-65. France desires, 59, Russians in, 59-60. Graham and others revolutionize, 60-65. Commodore Jones takes possession of, 62. Early navigators and voyagers in, 64-80. Captain Cook forbad to enter, 66. Boston merchants in, 66-80. Cap- tain John Brown in, 78-79. Russians in, 70-71. Early American navigators in, 67-72. Jedediah Smith first explorer overland, 75-78. Turner, Galhraith, and others arrested, 75-76. Chinese immi- gration encouraged, 78. First Ameri- cans in, 79-83. Early settlement in, 79- 85. Commodore Wilkes in, 80-82. As seen by Fremont, 83-85, 89-106. Mexi- can rule in, 86-94. Early condition of, 87-106. War in, 89-106. Fremont governor of, 92. Commodore Sloat takes possession of, 92-106. Mexican feuds in, 97-110. To be ceded to France or England, 97-1 10. Americans in possession of, 92-110. Acquisition and boundary of, 110-I15. Organized as a State, in. Original title to the soil, 112-115. Under American rule, early population, 1 16-130. Gold dis- covered in, 1 19-123. Chinese in, 122- 123. First steamers in, 125. Early mining in, 130-143. Earliest mention of its name, 147-150. Area of, 151- 154. Area and population compared •viih other countries, 151-154. Moun- tains, valleys, and resources, 153-159. Rivers in, 180-191. Lakes, 171- 179. Bays in, 190-201. Islands in, 202-236. Springs in, 207-213. Yosemite, 214- 220. Earth(iuakes, 220-235. Gold, mines, and mining, 248-270. Physicil structure, 289-291. Climate and seas- ons, 292-305. Rainfall, 300-303. Area, 315. Wheat, 320. Resources, 355-381. Railro.ids in, 358-359. Navigation of, 367-369. Ship-building, 369-372. Tele- graph and time in, 371-374. Commerce, trade, and shipping, 377-381. Schools, education, books, newspapers, colleges, &c., 377-400. Relijjion, prisons, asy- lums, executive, judiciary, laws, lawyers, 402-419. Chinese, 420-441. Counties in, set forth, 443-523. Population by counties, &c., 658. Calaveras, grove of big trees, 164-167. Calaveras county, area, soil, climate, •' big trees," resources, population, &c., 510. Calistoga springs, 208. Canada Pacific railway and its mfiuence 642. Canals and ditches, 276-277. Cape Horn discovered, 36. Cakmelo bay, 192. Carteret in the Pacific, 36. Castro, General, revolution in California 60-61. In authority, 86-89. His com. bats with Fremont, 89-106. Catholicism established, 40-54, 61. Its extent in California, 403-408. In the world, 563-567. Cattle, horses, and sheep, 306-308. Raising, branding, vaquero, 344-350. In each of counties of California, 443- 523. In Oregon, 538. In Nevada, 545. Caves in California, 2S1-282. Cemenon's explorations and voyages, 65. Cement mining, 265-266. Central Pacific railroad, 360-367. Its effects, 380. Chinese constructing, 426. Charitable and aid societies, 400-402. C' 'DREN in the schools, 384-387. Chinese in California, 122-123. " Shsill 6/2 THE GOLDEN STATE. enter tlie Ooldcn Gate," 196-198. In Australia, 269. Mining tax, 289. Chil- dren in the schools, 3S5. Men in the schools, 388 Numbers, r<£ligion, em- ployment, customs, &c., 421-442. Total in America, 423. In Australia, 420, 442. Christianity of the, 439. Slavery of, in America, 440. In San Francisco, 454, 466. In Nevada, 541. In Arizona, 600. In Idaho, 613. In the United States and on the Pacific coast, 558-565. In Washington Territory, 624. Christ in jwrson in America, 572. Christianity, first, in America, 34. In California, 40-54-61, Among the Chi- nese, 420, 441. Chinese progress in, 439. In the world, 563. CiiDRCHES, ministers, and religion, 403- 408. "Civilization" introduced into California, 47-48. Cl-EAR lake, 175-177. Cliff house, 196. Climate in the .Sierras, 159-161. Of Cali- fornia, 292-305 ; and frui's, 329-331. In California, 355. Of each section of the State by counties, 443-523. Of the Pa- cific coast, 523-525. Of Oregon, 526- 540. Of Nevada, 541-547. Of Utah, 550. Of Arizona, 600. Of Id.iho, 610. Of Washington Territory, 620-C25. Of British Coluntbir, 632. 643. Of Alaska, 644, 663. Coal and coalmining, 277. In Washing- ton Territory, 623. Coast rivers, 184-189. Coast Range mountains, 159-162. Coast counties, climate, soil, area, pro- ductions, population, towns, 443-523. Cobalt and nickle, 278. Coin only circulated on the Pacific coast, 375-377- 0)Li.iNuwooD, Admiral Seymour, outdone, 93-95- Coi.'jMA, where Marshall discovered gold in 1848, 515. Colonization of America, 33-39. Of California and the Pacific coast, 36-39. Colored persons in the United States and on the Pacific coast, 658-665. Colorado river and its sources, 601. Ex- ploration of, 46-47. Colored children in the schools, 385- 386. CoLUMniA cruises on the Pacific, 66-69, Columbia river discovered by CaDtain Gray, 66-68. Entered by other naviga- tors, 69-70. British exploring, 69-70. Pass to, sought by the United States, 82- 85. Fremont's explorations of, 88-94. Exploration and dis'.:overy, 527-529. Navigation of, 530. Columbus discovers America, 35. Colusa county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, population, &c., 479-480. Commerck of California, 138. General, 309-317. Tables showing extent and comparisons, 377-381. Of Oregon, 530- 535. Of Washington Territory, 624. CoMSTOCK mines, Nevada, 263-264. Confucius and his religion, 431-435. CoNORESs, United States ship, in Califomi.i, 96-97. Announces gold discovery, 121, CoNsuiij in California, 94, 114-115. Contra Costa county, area, soil, climate, resources, population, &c., 487-488. Cook's voyages, 36, 65-68. Not permilto>l to enter California, 66. CooLYisM in America, 440. Copper and copper-mining, 277. CoRTEZ in Mexico, 34. In California, 36, 41-47. Leaves for Spain, 42. Cotton and rice, 340. CoUNTlF-s of California, area, soil, climate, towns, population, &c., 443-523. Courts and lawyers, 417-419. Crespi, Father, at San Diego, 49-50. CRF-stKNT Citj? hariior, 200. Crime, prisons, and asylums, 408-413. Cuba, coolyisin in, 440. Cyane, United States vessel, in California, lOJ. Eam.i r.VRTl p.in East Ecu A? a I ,A I'dk.v, Edi'ca lnMik ANAL YTICAL JXDEX. 673 Dam\, James D., his account or ^oUI ui\ the Pacific. 255. Deaf, dumb, and hlind.schools for the, 395. Death valley, encounteiod by I'lvmoiu, 84. Location, &c., 180. Peculiar feat- ures, 225-235. Deer and other animals, 1^40-241. Defamers, thieves, and quacks, 40S-4 13. Del Norte county, area, soil, climate, for- ests, resources, jiopulation, &c., 472-473. DiAMONns in California, 278. Discovery of America, 33-30. Green- land and Iceland, 34-35. Peru, 36. Alaska, 36. Golden Gate, 37, Gold, 38. Gold by Wilkes, 82. DivoRCK, Laws of, 417. Doctrines and faith of the Mormons, 596- 6(X). Dominican friars as missionaries, 47-48. Dosnf.r lake, 177. " Donnkr party" in the Sierras, i.^. Dol'GI.as, Thomas, first scluiol-teacher in California, no. Drakp., Sir Francis, in California, 36. Takes possession of CaWoMii.n for Great Uritain, 42. Did not enter the Goliien Gate, 42-44. Departure for Kn_i;;land, 43. In (.'alifornia, 64. Ili^ mention of gold discoveries, 254. Dl! vKR's bay not the Hay of San Francisco, 43. " 1 )r.-ike's lanrl back of Canada," 43. In .M.irm county, 198. Dry lakes, 180. DtTONT. Commiwlorc, in California, 97. Dt'TCH navit;alors in the Pacific, 36. Eaoue lake, 176. Eartih.h'aki;-; and volcanoes in various p.iib of the world, 220-235. East India Company, 65. F.CICANKIA, Governor of California, alarmed ni American encroachments, 75-79, KriK.v, j;ol.l in, 248. Er)i'i:Ai'i'"iN, schools, colleges, newspapers, books, 382-400. Ameriian, in Jajjan, 423. In buu 1 luncijco, 454 466. 43 r.r.l. river, 187. Kl. Capilan, 217. Kl Dorado county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, population, &c., 513-515. Fi, I )oiado, nciv, discovered, 38-39. Fi.KCTKoSii.icoN, 278. Elizahktm, (Jueen of England, claims California, 42-43. El.K and (leer, 240-241. Empress of Russia gives pass to Ledyard, 65. Fncland claims California, 42-43, 70. Sends expeditions to the I'acitic coast, 64-69. ( Vcu) lies and cl.iinis Urcgon, 72- 76. War with the I'nilod Stales, 73. Formally surrenders Orejjon, 74. Seeks to obtain California, 93-99. Gold in, 250. Esf.itttMAl.T as a harbor, 640. F.siKRo b.ay, 192. Europe, countries of, com]iared with Cali- fornia ill area anIand of, 206. Far.mim; and farmers, 305-317. Of f ni t and vegetables, 334-331- In Oregon, Fashion among the Chinese, 438. "FATHKRS"iii California, 40, 54. Van- ished, 47, 49-54. Missions confiscated, 55-57- Fathkr Duran, letter from Jedcdiah Smith. 76-77. Ffaihir river. 182. I'bMAi.h suffrage in L'tah. 584 587. It 674 THE GOLDEN STATE. Figs and other fruits, 330-331. First schools in California, 384. First vessel to enter the (jolden Gate, 5 1 . To enter the Columbia river, 68. Fish in the Pacific, 244-247. lu the waters of Akiska, 655-656. Fi.athf.ad Indians of the Northwest, 642. Flax in California, 324. Fi.f.as in California, 244. Flf-F,t, Commodore Wilkes', in the Pacific, 81-82. Florf5, Don Jose Marid, a troublesome customer- — his proclamation, 104-106. Fl.oWFRS, 304. Shrubs, plants, and grasses, 167-X69. Floyd, J. B., encourages Chinese immi- gration to California, 78. Folsom as an e.irly trading place, 75. Foreigners in America, on the Tacific coast, by counties, 65X-665 Forests and forest trees and shrubs in California, 162-166. In the sever.il counties in California, 443-523. Of Oregon, 566. Fort Ross, Russian establishment in Cali- fornia, 70. Fort Vancouver, e.irly trappers at, 78. Franciscan friars in California, 37, 47. .Sovereijjns in the land, 54, 86. France desires to possess r.-ilifornia, 59. 1<'HA7.FJI river, British Cohnnltia, 636. Fheihkrc. mines, 274-275. J'MtMoui, J.)Iin C, first cxpolition to '.he Rocky mountains, 82-85. Third expe- dition, 88-96. Ai)i)'>iiiie9. '•1nkiiih.s" as a Injunilary for nations, 113. Inheritance, laws respecting, 416. Insane asyUnn and ii mpants, 413-414. Imkrior and valley i .luics, arc/, soil, climate, valleys, resources, &c., 474-503. Interest on money, 357. Intoxication almost unknown among the Chinese, 436. Inyo county, area, soil, mountains, forests, climate, resources, population, &c., 505- 506. 676 THE GOLDEN STATE. Inyo, earthquake of 1872, 225-335, Iron in Caliromia, 278. Islands in California, 202-206. Jackson, President, account of early trap- pers, 78. Japanese in the United States and in Cali- fornia, 423. Religion of, 431. Japanese junk wrecked on the coast of Washington Territory, 81. Japan, Christianity in, 564. Jefferson, Tiiomns, interested in explor- ing the Pacific, 65. Lewis' and Clark's expedition, 71. Jesuits in California, 37, 44-54. Ex- pelled by King Charles of Spain, 47-48. Jews, "dispersion" of, 565. Jones, Commodore, takes possession of California, 62. Joseph Smith, the founder of Mornionism, his birth, career, and dctith, 566-boo. Joss-houses in San Francisco, 426, 433. Juan de Fuca strait, it.? discovery, early history, &c., 616-625. Judiciary, St-itc, 417. Kearney, General S. W., ovcrl.ind to Californin, 97. Persecules Fremont, 107- 109. Takes his departure, 108-109. Kern county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, poi)ulati.'.)n, itc, 499. Kkndkick, Captain, on the Pacific coa.st, 66-69. Kencuki.en explores the Pacific, 37. Kern lake, 179. KiNU Cieorge's Sound Company, 65. KlNf;'s river, 183. KiNC. of Sp.nin, autlioriiy in California, 44- 47. Ch.irles expels tin; Jesuits, 47 4X. Influence in San I>io(.';i'. 47-4S. Kind's, Father, expiMlitVins, 46-47. Kit Carson with Fremont, SH-K9. Kl AMATII ti'unty, aril, soil, climate, for- ests, prodtictions, jiopulalion, &c., 471- 472. Ki.AMAiu river, 188. Lake Coeur d'AIine, 609. Lake Eleanor, 178. Lake Pen d'Orellie, 609. Lakes Tahoe, Humboldt, and others, in Nevada, 173, 542-543. Lakes— Lake Tahoe and all the chief lakes in California, 1 71-179. Ol Ore- gon, 534-536. Of Nevada, 542-543- Lake county, area, soil, climate, resources, population, &c., 482-483. . Lakks in 0-cgon, 535. " Land of Gold," early mention of, 148- 149. Lands in California, 152-154. Spanish grants .md public lands, 316-321. Pub- lic, for educational purposes, 377-400. How dispose, ciillencs, >.cba.s>4H>ns to t-'aji- tain Cray and a.s.siKialcs, C>7-63k Early tr.idcrs t" the I'Vitk, f>6 So. MvTrii-MAKiNi-. Among the Chinese, 43?, Mknuocino <\iunty, aiua, soil, climaie, forests, productions, population, &c., 468-469. Merced county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, population, &c., 495-496. Merchandise, prices in the mines, 130. Paving the streets with, 137. Imports and exports, 378. Mexico, first settled, 34. Cortez and Montezuma in, 34. Aztecs' temples, 34. Confiscates mi.ssions, 54-57. Indepen- dence of, 55. Rcpulilican governuier.t established, 55-5.H. Rule in Canfoinia, 57. Authorities of, banished, 61-63. Calls on " Uncle Sam" foraiil, 70. Rule of, in California, 86-f San Fr.uuisto, SI-VV Presidios of the, 53. Knd of, in C.ilifoniia, 54 57, lK>lvMv» nl Salt b^Axnci^cu, 117. 678 THE GOLDEN STATE. MoKRAS, M. Dudot de, French agent, 59. Mohammedanism and other religions, 563-569. Mohave river, 184. MoNCADA, Don, at San Diego, 49. Wows, coin, anrl paper — pajjer not in use on the Tacific coast — 375-377. Mono 'ounty, area, soil, climate, resources, pxi:n a OVblKR ANALYTICAL INDEX. 679 OcKAN, biy, and river navigation, 367-369. OoDEN ard Salt Lake City, Utah, 557/ Olives, luts, and fruits, 330-333. Onions in California, 324. OriUM, used by Ci.incse, 436-437. In the United States, 437. Okanuks and other fruiif, 327-331. ORiiiJON, discovered and explored, 66-80. First settlement in, 71. John Jacob Astor in, 71-72. Pacific Fur Company, 71-76. Occupied and claimed by the English, 72-76. Pormally surrendered by the English, 74. Fort George, 74. Hudson Buy Con»pany in, 74-75. Early fur traders in, 75. Trappers murdered in, by Indians, 77-78. Commodore Wilkes in, 81-82. Wilkes reports gold in, 82. Fremont in, 83-85, 89. Boun- dary defined and title settled, 112-115. Gold product of, 267. Rainfall, 300. Farming in, 306. Railroads in, 358. Agricultural societies, 394-395. Chinct^e in, 422. Newspajjcrs in, 465. Area, geography, climate, seasons, forest', minerals, mining, agriculture, rivers, mountains, resources, population, cities, society, &c., 526-540. Railroads and navigation, 530-532. Lakes, forests, game, lumber, &c., 534-536. Agricul- ture, industries, m-inufacturcs, commerce, cities, progress, &c., 537-539. I'opula- tion of, 6t)0. Oregon, steamship, arrived at San Fran- cisco, 125. Orikntal seal broken, 38-39. Oriental habits in Califuniia, 425-4^9. Religion, 430-435- Owens Kike, 176. ( iWENS river, 184. Affected by earth- quake, 227. CVkkn and their uses, 353. Oystkrs and other shcU-tish, 145. Pacific coft«t, in olwcuiity, enrly voyage- eis and muigiitors on, 64 So. Wilkes' expedition to, 80-82. Its physical lor- niation, 289-291. R.iilroitdii on, 358. Mints and coinage on, 375-377. Chinese on, 422. Newspapers on, 465. Area, soil, climate, forests, rivers, mountains, resources, population, &€., 523-525. Yield of gold and silver, 264-270. Mor- mon s^^ettlement on, 582-587. Popula- tion of, 658-665, Rain, climate, and temperature, 300-304. Steam navigation of, 367-369. Ship-building on, 369-370. Pacific ocean discovered, 35-36. Hehr- ing, Cortez, Magellan, Pizarro, Cabrillo, Dr.nke, Viscayno, Leniair, Schouten, Willis, Carteret, Cooke, Vancouver, Fuca, and Kenguelen in, 36-37. Early navigators and voyagers in, 64-So. Wilkes' and other vtwages in, 79-82. Pacific Fur Comjiany in Oregon, 71-76. Pajaro river, 186. Pai.o Alto, battle of, 1 10. Pai.on's, Father, e?:p!or.itions, 50-51. Panama, steanvship, arrives at San Fran« Cisco, 125. Panthf.r, <-hip, arrives in California, 79, Pakai>isk ai. known by Maundcville, 149- 151. Terrestrial, 147-148. Pavi-iiing's, J. K., instructions to Lieuten- ant Wilkes, 80 81. PFj\riu:si and other fruiu, 330-332. Pelican b: v, 201. Pena, Senor, prefect in California, 6t. Peru discovered, 36. PETROM.t'M in California, 279. Pini.ir, King of Sp-iin, interested in Cali- fornia, 43-65. Pico, Pio, Governor of California, 63, 86- 89, Pilgrims, landing of, 36, Agriculture of, 310. Pioneers of Oregon, 539. Pkjneer, first steamer on the Sacramento, '39- " Pioneer Society," guns of early Rus- sians, 70-71, "Pear Flag" in losses- sion of, 92. " Pious fund of California," 55-56. 68o THE GOLDEN STATE, Pirate, Naddodr, 34. Monterty destroyed by a, 79. Pitt river, 19a PiZAKKO in Peru, 36. Plants, shrubs, flowers, and grasses, 167- 169. Platinum and plumbago, 279. Placer county, area, soil, climate, mines, resources, pojnilaiion, &c., 515-516. Plumas county, area, soil, climate, moun- tains, valleys, population, &c., 519-520. Plural wives of the Mormons, 579-600. New revelntion regarding, 591-594. Poison oak, its cfTects and cure, 167-169. Polk, President, pardons Fremont, 109. PoLYr.AMY in China, 435. Among the Mormons, 593-599. Pope Alexander VI, " source of all tempo- ral power," decides tlie limits of nations, I12-113. PoruLATioN, earliest, in California, 52, 1 16-11 7. Compared with other coun- tries, 152-154. Of all the counties in the State of California, 443-523. Of San Francisco, 454-466. Of Oregon, 526 Of Nevada, 541. Of Utah, 555. Of Arizona, 600. Of the United Stutes, the Pacific coast, and all the country west of the Rocky mountains, 658-665. Of Washington Territory, 624. PORTALA discovers the Golden Gate, 37, 49; and Bay of San Francisco, 50-51. Portland, Oregon, and other cities, 540. PoRTSMounr, ship of war, at Sun Fran- cisco, 96-97. Portugal claims possessions on tli« Pa- cific, II 2-1 14. Potatoes in California, 325, Poui.lRY in California, 354. Presidios of the missionaries, 53. Prisons, crimes, and asylums, 408-413. Priklamation of W. B. Ide, 90-93. Of Commodore Jones, 62. Of Connnodore Sloat, 94-97. Of Commodore Stockton, 102-103. Of Flores, 104-106. Of Kear- ney and ShuLrick, loS. Professional begging, 400-402. " PRi)FESSlONAL men" in good supply, 419. Prot^.stant church, first, in California, I18-119. • Protestantism, first, in California, 403- 408. In the world, 565. Prunes, plums, and pomegranates, 331. PuuET sound, ship-building on, 370. Its discovery, early history, magnitude, com- merce, and clim.ite, 616-625. Effects of Northern Pacific railroad, and future importance, 626-631. QiTACKS, vagabonds, and thieves, 40&-413. Quail and othei birds, 241-242. Quartz-mining, 261-267. In various countries, 263-268. Mills, 266. In Nevada, 546. Quicksilver in California, 379. New Alameda mine, 494. Railroads in the United States, on the Pacific coast, and in California, 358-366. In Oregon, 532. In Arizona, 603. Northern Pacific and Canadian, 626, 642. Rain, frost, snow, ice, and winds, 295-303. In Oregon, 529. In Alaska, 649. In Arizona, 601. In Washington Terii- tory, 620-624. In British Columbia, 634. Real estate and rents in San Francisco, 136. Redwood creek, 188. Rki.ic.ion established by law, 6f. Remcioits denominations of the world — Christians, Pagans, Mohammedans, Jew«, Buddhists, and Mormons, 563-600. In Alaska, 653. Remcion, cluirches, and preadhers, 403- 407, Of the Chinese, 429-433. Ol tlie world, 430-439. Reptiles, horned toad, 242-244. Republican government, first, in America, 34. In Mexico, SS-59. Resourcics of California, 1 51-159. Set forth by counties, climate, soil, area, pi o- duclious, and population, 443-523. Salem, Salinas Salmon, Salt Lai Iieoplc Salt, Nevad Salt in cific, zona, S\IT la locatioi and his San Antd San Antci Santa A wons, 5 f ANAL YTICAL IXDLX. 68 1 Revelation on polygamy, 591-594. De- nial of the right of polygamy, 594. Revolutions in California, 60-65. RllKT lake, 172. Kick and cotton, 340. Richardson, Ca{)tnin W. A., builds first house at San Francisco, 117. RlLKV, General Hennct, militarir governor of California, no. Rivers in California, 181-190. Rivers in Oregon, 530-532. Of Nevada, 542. Rcx:kv mountains explored, 75-79. Fur companies in, 75. John C. Fremont ex- plores, 82-85. Railroad across, 360-367. In the Far West, 635. RosANOKF, Count Von, in California, 70. Russian America sold to the United Slates, 70-71. Russian American Fur Company, 65, 649. Evacuate California, 70-71. Russians in California, 59, 60, 70. Russian river, 187. Sacramento county, city, area, soil, cli- mate, resources, jxiimialion, &c., 485-487. Sacramenw City established, 135-136. River navigation, 138-139. Sacramento river, 181. Salem, the capital of Oregon, 540. Salinas river, 185. Salmon, 246. Salt Lake City, its history, population, and people, 556-557. Salt, mountains, beds, and lakes of, in Nevada, 546. In Arizona, 602. Salt in California, 210-211. On the Pa- cific, 280. In Nevada, 546. In Ari- zona, 602. In Utah, 558. Sait lake, Fremont at, 85. Its extent, location, &c., 558. Kurliest discovery and history of, 560-562. San Antonio arrives at San Diego, 48. San Antonio de Padua mission, 52. Santa Anna revokes confiscation of mis- hiuns, 56. Santa Ilarbara island, 203. Sam \ Iiarl>ara mission founded, 52. San lA Marbara county, area, climate, soil, productions, population, &c., 447-448. San Hernardino county, area, soil, climate, resources, jMjpulalion, iVc, 500-503. San buenaventuia misMon founded, 52. San Carlos li i\us for .S.m Diego, 4S, First vessel to enter the (Jolden Gale, 51- 52. San lA C.italina island, 203. .Sania Clara mission founded, 52. Santa Clara county, area, soil, climale, re- sources, towns, |H)pulalion, &c., 493-495. San Clement island, 202. Santa Cru/. county, area, soil, clim.ite, pro« ductions, population, &.C., 451-452. Santa Cruz bay, 193. Santa Cruz island, 204. .Santa Cruz mission founded, 52. San Diego cxpioretl iiy Viscayno, 43-44. To be held for ihe- King of Sjiain, 48. Arrival of .San Carlos and .San Antonio, 48. First settlement, 49-51. Mission founded, 52. Delia Dyrd enters, 70. Turner and Galbraith at, 75. I'aniont at, 103-105. .'\rea, climate, soil, pro- ductions, piinilation, and towns of coun- ty, 444-445- San niej;(> harbor, 191. San Fernando Key mission founded, 52. San Franci>co b.-iy, 43, 194. l)isco\cied by Don (Jaspar Portala, 49-51. First vessel to enter, 51. Captain John Ibown and others refused admission, 67-69. Francis Drake did not iliscover, 42-44. First steamboat on, 11 8, 125. Nlands in, 194- 19S. Navigation on, 367-369. San Franci.-co city and county, ana, loca- tion, ]>opulation, commerce, manufac- tures, society, customs, newspa)-ei>, kc, 454-466. San Francisco de Solano mission founded, 53- San Francisco, mission founded, 51-52. Earliest settlement a», 79-82. \ iniennci 682 THE en: DEN STATE. at, 82. Early condition of, 87-88. Taken possession of by the Americans, 96- 99. First house built in, 117. Early commerce and newspa{)ers, 1 17-123. Rush for the gold-mines from, 1 17-123. First steamer arrived at, 125. Destroyed four times, 134. Real estate and rents, 136. Chinese in, 426-429. San Gabriel mission founded, 52. San Inez mission founded, 52. San Joaquin county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, {Mipulation, cities, &c., 490-491. San Joaquin river, 182. San Jose mission founded, 52. San Jose, loss of, 48. San Juan Uautista mission founded, 52. San Juan Capistrano founded, 52. San Juan island and its occupancy, 641. San Lorenzo river, 186. San Luis Rey de Francia mission founded, 52- San Luis bay, 192. San Luis Obispo county, area, soil, climate, propulation, clini.ite, &c., 65J- 655- Slavery of Chinese in America, 440. tries, AXAL YTICAL LSD EX. 683 ka, ptir- ^c, 65J- Sl.OAT, Commodore, takes possession of California, 92-106. Small feet of Chinc.ie women, 438, Smith, Captain Jcdcdiah, first man over- land, 75-79. His troubles and letters in California, 76-79. Finally slain on the Cimarron river, 78. Firbt American in California, 79. Smith, Joseph, the "prophet," founder of Mormonism, 566-600. Smith river, 189. Snakit river, Idaho, 608. Snow blockade on railroads, 367. SuLANO county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, population, &c., 484-485. Sonoma county, area, resources, soil, cli- mate, produclions, geysers, population, 467-468. Sonoma, capture of, 90-93. Fremont in : appointed (jovernor, 92. Southern Fa^rific railroad, 60J-606. Spanish navigators on the coast of Cali- fornia, 35-38. Rule in, 44-54. Galle- ons on the coast of California, 47. Rule in California, 57-59, 87-S9, 1 14. Jealous of Russians, 59. Spanish granu, 315. Si'EECHKS of Mexicans relating to tali- fornia, 97-100. Of Thoma.s H. licnton, I13-I14. "Spiritual" conquest of California, 44-49. Springs in California, 207. Stanislaus county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, population, &c., 491-493. State, California organized as a, III. Area and resources of, 151- 159. State of Deseret seeks admission into the Union, 583-584. State laws respecting homestead, separate properly, exemptions, and divorce, 415- 417. State prison and its occupants, 408-413. State university and school, 390. Stars and stripes hoisted, 92-99. Sti-:vVMERS, (Irsl.in California, 1 18-125, 13S- 139. Sniiin;^ to various purls and coun- tries, 367-309. " Stf.venson's regiment" in Califomin, 97. St. CiEoRr.E and St. Paul, Alaska, 650-656. Slt)CKTt)N, Commodore, in California, 96- 97. In command at Monterey, 102- 105. .Strait of Fuca, discovery, early histiuy, and voy.igcs to; Captains Gray and Cook at, 616-625. .Strawherkirs, season of, 333. Sulphur in California, 280. SuNOL, Antonio M., early settler in C»ii- foriiia, 79. Su pro tunnel and the Comstock lode, 271- 273. Suiter county, area, soil, climate, re- sources, population, &c., 481-482. SuTTKR, John A., in the revolutions, 63, Purchases Russian property, 70-71. Fremont at his home, 84. Gold ditcov- ert'd .It his mill, 1 19-123. Suiter's fort, Fremont at, 92-93. Swan lake, 176. "Syuney ducks," a riotous rabble, 134. Tar springs, 210. Taylor, Gcnei.-il, in Mexico, 93. Tea, its culture and variety, 335-339. Im- ports of, 380. Telegraph on the Pacific coast, 371-374. Temperature in various parts of the world, 302-304. In the several counties of Cali- fornia, 443-523- Temperate liabits of the CTiinese, 436. Tennent, brig, enters the Columbia river, 69. "TtRRKSTRiAL paradise" on the Pacific, 147-148. "The Rook of Constant Purity," 197. The Hridal Vail, 219. The California, first §teamcr in California, ' 125. " The Cross" planted in California, 40-49. The "Dome" of Yosemite, 217. The flea in California, 244. The Five Classics and Four Bonks, 431. The Golden Rule of Confucius, 432. " The last tie and the last spike," 365. Thi. place for the boys, 392. I' I % I T IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^i^ IM I.I 1.25 2.2 2.0 |||M LA. II 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation S: •i>^ ,\ <^ r^.. <^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-'i503 L

. I. Chinese ^65. Area, lakes, agri- rt, cities, de- o. Popula- applied to !-U5. ind villains, of military en prisoner, his speech, 170. For- on, 304-305- ph Columbia, 3"- Island mines, 130- 5-326. And aunty in Call- in California, ViNCENNES at San Francisco, 82. Virginia and other cities of Nevada, 547- Virginia, first settlement in, 36. ViscAYNO, Spanish explorer, on the coast of California, 36. Reaches San Diego, 43-44; and Monterey, 44-45, 65. Volcanic eruptions and indications, 220- 235- Voyages and explorations on the Pacific coast, 64-80. Walking, how the Chinese do, 439. Wallamet valley and its resources, 537- 539- Wallamet falls, Oregon, 530. Wallamet river and its navigation, 531- 532- Walnuts, fruits, and berries, 330-332. War in California, 89-106. Between the United States and Mexico, 110. Of Queen Anne and Louis XIV, 113-I14. With the Mormons, 584-585. Warm springs, 208. Washington Territory, Hudson Bay Com- pany in, 74-75. Wilkes visits wreck of Japanese junk in, 80-82. Gold product of, 267. Rainfall, 300. Ship-building in, 370. Chinese in, 423. Newspapers in, 465. Area, climate, soil, mountains, rivers, harbors, forests, mines, fish, pop- ulation, resources, railroads, &c., 613. Population, Chinese, &c., 631. Waterfalls, Yosemite, and others, 214- 220. Wallamet, Oregon, 530. West Indies, Coolyism in the, 440. Whales in the Pacific, 245. Wheat in California, 154-305. Product of the State of California, 320. In the several counties, 443-523. In Oregon, 537. In Nevada, Oregon, and other places, 544. White Sulphur springs, 208. Soda springs, 209. Widows restrained from marrying, 438. Wife's separate property, 416. Wild oats in California, 169,323. WjLD game in Oregon, 536. Wilkes', Commodore, expedition to the • Pacific coast, 80-82, Willis in the Pacific ocean, 36. Wine and grapes, 332-334. Shipment of, 381- Wives of the " Saints," 594-6oa Woman among the Mormons, her con- dition, &c., 554. Wool in California, 154. In Oregon, 538. Worship of the Chinese, 433-435. XiMiNES explores Lower California, 41. Yankee revolution in California, 60-61. Still bothersome, 62-63. Enterprise on the Pacific coast, 66-87. Merchant in the mines, 131-132. Yellowstone valley, its geysers, beauties, and wonders, 628. Yellowstone national park, the largest in the world, 628. Yeri?a Buena, first settlement at, 117. Yerba Buena, or Goat island, 196. Yolo county, area, soil, clijnate, resources, population, &c., 481-482. Yosemite valley and falls, 158, 214-220. Location of, &c., 507. YouNG.Brigham, converted to Mormonism : his birth and eventful career, 576-600. Yukon river, its extent, &c., 648. Yuba county, area, soil, climate, resources, population, &c., 480-481. Yuba river, 182. " ZioN, which never shall be moved," 575, Zoology of California, 236-247. md, 637. KHH m AGENTS TUT ANTED FOR THE PICTORIAL HOME BIBLE, TVITH OVER 300 ILLUSTRATIONS, Printed in both English and Qerinan, And other Popular and Fast-Selling Subscription Books. As we are extensive Subscription Book Publishers and manufacturers of our own works, with four Branch Houses as distributing points, we are ab o to f^ell books cheaper and pay Agents more liberal Commissions than any other Publishers in tlie United States. "AGENTS FOR GOOD BOOKS Are moral colporteiirs. Rightly pursued their calling is one of the roblest on earth — a blessing to every community iu whicli it is exercised." The Book Agency Business is very remunerative and pays larger profits than any other empoynient that one could engage in. It requires very little capital to comminice with, and it has laid the loundation of many a fortune. We advise all who are out of employment, or have leisure moments, o engage with us. Minis- ters, School Teachers, and Students, will find it very pleasant and profitable. Our Ageuts have met with immediate success on our "PICTORIAL HOME BIBLE," And others can do equally as well on this, and all of our Publications. « • • » » The following are a few of the many reports received from Agents i Oar agent ia Oreeaville, S C, sold 6j Biblos, nioxtly lii^li prices, in ei^lit days. Onr iiif'n' '1 Tallahassee, Fla., sulil 11 the tli'.st day, aiul !>:i in oue week's cauvass. From Aberdeen, Mi«s., our agent reporis nearly UOO -old in less ih n iliree montbd' work. Kiliegh, N. C, aj;ent i-old and delivered 87 in twenty-two dayH* time. 18 were aoM la on > day and Hi iu uue week's tiuii.', by our a^out iu Saleiq County, N, J., who also cleared ;J3,000 In one year's canvii»u. Our at,'enl iu Berks County, Pa., averages 60 Bibles a mouth for four months, three-fouithsof them he\aa of the Oerman editiia. 'The a>;ent of Schuylkill County, Pa., sold Bibles enough in one y.>ar's time to buy aoomiort- able home, A lady agent at Boston, Oa., 80I1I 5 copies for hnr first half 'iay'a work. Colnnibia, S. C., was supplied by oir nijHut with oO <■ 'P hs. iu five d ys' time. Our agput In '/olumbia County, Oi\U\ delivered IftO t^npies In 3 small ownslilps. Our Cliemun County, N. V., agent sold -I'i Hihles willilu a radius ol two niilos. Our agent at Syracuse, N. Y., sold 1000 Bibles Iu oue year's time, an avuraje of nearly 100 a month. riimsburg, Holmea County, Ohio, agent 8old 40 in »lx days. Wo will send a complete outfit to any one wishing to canvass for oar works, on receipt of a guarantee tliat they will canvass diligently, and if 12 copies are not sold, that the canvassing outfit will bo returned to us iu two months from time of receipt. Send for Circulars and Terms. Addicr? WM. FLINT & CO., Philada., Pa., Atlai.tn, Oi., Cinciiiiiati, Ohio, CIticago, III., .Spiliijjfield, Mass. A HANS-BOOE FOR CHRISTIAN READERS. A Popular Repository of Religious Knowledge, CONTAINING FLEETWOOD'S LIFE OF CHRIST. IiIVES, TBAWSAOTIONS. AWD SUPFERINGS OP THB HOLY EVAN- GELISTS. APOSTLES, AND MARTYRS; THE EVIDEBTCES OF CHRISTIANITY AND DEFENCE OP THE OHKISTIAN RELIGION; THE EPISTLE OP ST. CLEMENT TO THE CORINTHIANS: HISTORY OP THE JEWS; EXHORTATIONS TO, AND DIRECTIONS FOR, READING THE HOLY SCRIP TUBE 5 5 A BPIEP HISTORY OP ALL BXISTING RELIGIOUS DE3 NO MI NATIONS AND ANCIENT SECTS t THE HOLY LAND. WITH CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES OF THE LIFE, PARABLES, DISCOURSES ▲ND UIRACLES OF THE LORD JESUS; A HARMONY OF THE GOSPELS ; TABLES OF SCRIPTURAL COINS AND MONEY-TEBMS. A. CiXTA-RTO "VOLXJIwIB OF 750 r»J>LC3-BS. AGENTS WANTED to every Township In the litnil, to whom eznlnflire territory will b« grautud. It will be turuitUeJ lu SUU^OIlliiUKS »i the following priced, payable on dellTery. Englisli Cloth, Fanelld Sides, G!lt Centre, Red Roan, ...... French Morocco, Panelled Sides, Fall Gilt, $5 00 6 00 7 60 SOLD ONLY BY REGULARLY APPOINTED AGENTS. If not •« reprenented, tabierlbert will b« under no obllKation whatever to take and pay for the Book when preiented for delivery. WJVI. FLINT & CO., Publishers, Philadelphia, Pa., Chicago, Ills., Cincinnati, 0., Atlanta, Gfa., Spfing&eld, Mass. ^ r' PjlOFUSELY AND ARTISTICALLY ILLUSTRATED. with over Three Hundred Illustration*. THE PICTORIAL HOME BIBLE. DEVOTIONAL AND EXPLANATORY. Containing the Old and New Testaments. A-poorypliAt Oonoordanoe, One Hundred Thousand Marginal References and Readlngsi Illustrative Bngrav- ings, on Steel, Wood, and in Colors, over Three Hundred in number, and an original series of more than Twenty Coaipaaion Artioles, forming a Popular Cyolopedia of Biblioal Subjeots. vivid and absorbing in desoription. These oompriaat The Holy Bible and its History t Analysis of| the Biblv; Books of the Old and New Testaments ; Animals of the Holy Bible ; Trees, Plants, Flowers and Fruits of the > oly Boriptures; Eastern Manners and Customs i The Forty Years' Wanderings ; Jewish Worship : Its Types Xixplained; Idols and Idolatry of the Anoients; Countries and Nations of the Bible;Tba Holy Land; The City and Environs of Jerusalem t Historical Conneotion of the Old and New Testuments; Bible Propheoies and their FulQlmenta; Immanuel, Our Lord Jesus Christ; The Missionary Journeys of the Apostle Paul ; The Bible in Historical Order ; The Symbolical Langu age of Scripture ; Chronologioal Index to the Holy Bible ; Key to the Antiqiuated Words of Scripture ; The Proper Names of Scripture ; Jewish Weights and Measures ; Tables of Scriptural Coins and Money Terms ; Bible Aids for Booial and Private Prayers, eto. PUBLISHED IN ENSLISH AND IN aSHUAN EDITIONS. No. A, Ameriesn Morocco, Piinellcil.^idcs, ^Iwbleil Ftli^c, . . , , $7 50 Ko. B, American Morocco, l'anclli>il K\^\^s, Mnrblod Rdi^cs, Oilt Centre Stamp, . . . 9 Ot) No. C, American Morocco, I'anelleil Si(li>!i, Gilt l^(l;;e!i, Gilt Centre titamp, . . 10 00 No. D, French Morocco, Antique and Gold, G!lt Edges and Ed^eii of the Cover rolled. Full Gilt, 14 00 No. K, French Horoccu, Panelled Sides, Full Gilt with Clasp, Edges of the Cover rolled. Full Gilt, 16 00 Ask our Canvassing Agents for a Pictorial Circular, or rend to WM. FLINT & CO., Publishers, Philaielphia, Pa., Chicago, Ills., Cincinnati, 0., Atlanta, Qa., Springfield, Mas0. ■™w $7 50 9 00 10 00 14 00 \, 16 00