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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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■ ^ Pi

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A.,

CANADA; ^-- '-"'^^

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF:

THE COUNTRY, ITS PEOPLE. RELfGIONS, POLITICS,
RULERS, AND ITS APPARENT FUTURE.

IIEINO A COMPENDIUM OK TUAVEI- THROCOH THE

Upper and Lower Provinces,

TOGETHKU WITH A nKSORIPTION OK THEIR

ReSOI'RCKS AN1> EXTKRPRISES, TrADK, STATISTICS, KTC, VIKWKD BOTH
IN' IIS MlSINi;SS, SoClAl, AM) I'oMTKUt. Asi'GCTS.

Its vAiuors Citiks and Simmku Rksorts, Salmon Rivers, etc.,

!-\

^->il

•lor.KTlIEK WITH THE

Lcffeiils of ttie Lower St. Lawrence and tlie Cities on tie Coast.

1\ l'A(rr, A VA1.UA15LE A\D [XTRRSSTING ROOK FOR BOTH
TRAVELLERS AND HOME l-\)LKS.

WITH NUMKKOUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

i!v CAPTAIN MAC.

PRICE, SO cts

2« out veal :

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR.

1881.

PREFACE.

HAfu' '"'^'^^'"^ *^"'. "^""^^ "P«" ^ generous, con-
fiding and unsuspecting public, I have not a word

i ^' -i^.u^^'^r ^^ ^^**"" '^ pages anythin/l
have said that I m glad of, I'm Torry for it ; Lnd

«f ni ^1/ '^l ^\T ?"^ energetic remarks, I'm
still glad. Should the bored peruser gain the

leTr T^'\ ^'[" y^' ^'^^ ^ but should
laddeTr ""^ half-dollar sought, " I'm

"MAC."

Mrfz

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Marquis and Marchioness of Lome, Frontispiece.

Mississippi Steamer.

High Bridge, Tennessee.

Wine Company, St. Louis, Mo.

Niagara Falls.

Fort Niagara.

Toronto.

Court Reception, Ottawa.

Steamer in Lachine Rapids.

" 6cottsh Mistrust." t

"The Samtly."

Montreal.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Montreal.

Quebec.

Falls of Montmorency in Winter.

Falls of Montmorency in Summer.

Perce Rock.

Capes Trinity and Eternity.

Halifax.

Cod Fishing on the George's Banks.

'^^

MARQUIS AND I'HINCESS.

Canada and the Canadians.

A TRIP TO THE UPPER AND LOWER PROVINCES,
LAKE ONTARIO, AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

In April, 1880, I laid back in a comfortable chair at the
St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans, whilst a negro boy was
energetically endeavoring to put " de Crescent City polish
on de shoeses," prior to my rambling at the Lake-end and
around Spanish Fort. Whilst the boy was thus occupied I
fell into a reverie, and my mind seemed fully occupied in
trying to decide upon which route to take during the long
summer months now fast approaching. Whilst still men-
tally cogitating, the porter, an acquaintance with whom I
had become tolerably familiar, soon brought me to a deci-
sion, for, said he : " Say, Captain, so they say you're goin
away,so you are ; which way are you goin ? " " Well, Phelim,"
I answered, " I expect to go north, through Alabama, Geor-
gia, Tennessee, Kentucky and Illinois, to Chicago ; then
possibly through Michigan, and perhaps into Canada." " Oh,
bedad," said Phelim, " are you goin wid thim Kanucks ?
That reminds me whin I wuz there, in '65, wid Gineral
O'NaiUe, how we loike to hev' tuck the whole cunthry frum
thim." This remark decided me, and in a few days I was en
route for Canada.

In the spring a journey through the Southern States
is most delightful and invigorating, and with the hearty

t *(■■

CANADA ;

welcome the traveller receives at each new stopping-
place ; the anxiety of the citizens for news, both political
and general, from other states, stamp the population at once
as being both hospitable and highly intelligent. Stopy)ing
respectively at Mobile, the coming seaport of the Gulf
then again at Montgomery, the first capital of the Southern
Confederacy and the prettiest laid-out city in Alabama ;
again at the flourishing Gate City, in Georgia, which, in spite
of the ravages of Sherman and his blackguards, is now fast
rivalling New England with its manufactures and indus-
tries, we hurry through to Chattanooga, the Mountain City
of Tennessee, and there were treated to an unusual sight for
a citizen of the sunny South. A first-class snow-storm was
in progress, and the mountains surrounding the city were
covered with the fleecy white crystals. Lookout Mountain
looked especially grand and majestic, clothed in her winter
drapery, but the transition from summer to winter was so
short — twelve hours only — that it seemed hardly realistic,
and, but for the sensation of cold experienced, we could
hardly reconcile ourselves to the fact.

From Chattanooga we were fortunate enough to embark on
the first passenger train on the New Cincinnati Southern
Eailroad, at that time under the management of Mr. T. C.
Gabbitt. The road runs through some of the wildest moun-
tain scenery in America, and is certainly one of the triumphs
of engineering science. Its construction has cost the city of
Cincinnati alone some $13,000,000. The High bridge over
the Cumberland river is said to be the highest trestle in the
world, and is over 160 feet above the bed of the river, and
certainly demonstrates to what perfection iron bridge build-
ing can be brought, for in crossing the feeling of the traveller
is that he is gliding through mid-air, and is really without

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

" visible means of support." It was stated that, should tlw
passenger drop a rock or ])iece of coal, whilst the cars were
in the centre of the bridge, the train would arrive at the
other side before the missile struck the water. Of course
there were plenty of experimenters, but results were unsa-
tisfactory.

Arriving at Lexington it was but a short trip to the
" Falls City," Louisville, prettily situated on the banks of
the Ohio — thence through the fertile states of Indiana and
Illinois, to the future great metropolis of the West, St.
Louis. This city, that in 1850 contained but 40,000 in-
habitants, is now a busy hive of human industry, and num-
bers over 500,000 people. Its commerce is great and con-
stantly increasing. Its industries are both staple and
enterprising, whilst its public buildings and parks command
the admiration of the entire Westeru people. Smith's
Garden, owned by an English resident, rivals some of
the boasted parks and gardens of the South of England.
Anheauser,the brewer, has an establishment that would com-
pare favorably with Bass or Allsopp ; whilst the American
Wine Company, for the manufacture of " Cook's Imperial
Champagne," possess cellars that would be creditable to
Mumm of Reims, or Cliquot of Epernay. Under the guidance
of the genial president of the company, who is untiring in
his efforts to please and entertain his visitors, we wandered
through their fine vaults or cellars, where the manufacture
of champagne is carried on, and, as the process may be
interesting to the reader, I will attempt to describe it :
these vaults, which are claimed to be the largest cham-
pagne cellars in the United States, occupy the entire space
between Cass and Garrison avenues, and are divided
underground into various departments, in the first of

CANADA ;

which we see the large casks of this season's juice as it comes
from the grape press, the wines from each district being
kept separate. Then we notice the large vats in which the
wines from Ohio and tliose from Southern Missouri, and
other favored localities are blended. The wine is then racked
off into bottles, well corked, and arranged with their necks
downward in rows on pujyitres or stands, where they
undergo for several months the moving process in order to
settle all the sediment from the wine on the cork. After
viewing the labyrinth of underground vaults, filled with
thousands of bottles of wine admirably binned, we return
once more to the light of day, passing through walls of
barrels of last year's vintage still in the wood. We then pass
on to ihG finishing room : here we find seated in a row, each
before his special machine, skilled workmen ready to give
the last touch to the bottle before it passes into the hands
of the consumer. Workman No. 1, called a ddgorger, had
to practically solve the difficulty of expelling from the
bottle the accumulated impurities lying on the cork, and
forced into that position by the skill and watchfulness of
the movers or remeurs ; this he accomplished by a skillful
withdrawal of the cork, when the force of the explosion
forced out, with a wonderfully small loss of wine and gas,
the obnoxious deposit. This done, the bottle is passed on to
Workman No. 2, who proceeds to infuse into the wine a
small but fixed percentage of a luscious nectar, technically
called a liqueur, the quantity being determined according to
the taste of the market, thus solving the mystery of " dry "
or " sweet " Champagne. Workman No. 3 then proceeds
to replace with a new cork the bouchon de service, power-
ful machinery compressing the yielding wood, and inserting
into the narrow neck of the bottle a cork that appears quite

■

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

out of proportion to the duty required. Workman No. 4 is
the stringer who skillfully adjusts the twine, making by
physical force the cork assume the mushroom app«'aranc6
with whirh we are all so familiar. No. 5 then wires the
bottle. No. 6 deftly adjusts the gold or silver leaf, and to
No. 7 belongs the duty of affixing the label or brand of the
firm, thus completing the work and leaving the bottles ready
for the packing room prior to exi)ortation for champi>gne
drinkers found the wide world over. In New York city, the
manufacturers do not go to all that trouble ; they merely
procure Jersey cider, condemned wine and suljihuric acid,
sweeten it and charge it with carbonic acid gas like a bottle
of soda water, label the bottle and place it on the market,
thus saving both time and expense, and materially assisting
the spirit merchants in their sales of brandy to relieve the
pains consequent on the absorption of a bottle of New York
champagne.

From St. Louis a twelve hours run across the State of
Illinois brings us to that energetic, bustling and prosperous
city, the grain emporium of the world, Chicago. Still
hurrying onward twelve hours more, and we reach the
thriving City of Detroit, the river alone separating the State
of Michigan from the domain of Her Imperial Majesty Queen
Victoria. It is probably at this point the visitor first
••otices the wide difference between the enterprise of the
Americans and the seeming apathy of the Canadians.
Although Windsor is the terminus of the Grand Trunk Rail-
road and the nearest town to the Western States, still enter-
prise seems dead, and the ennui of the people so pronounced
that they seem disinclined to make any exertion in their
own behalf or for the advancement of the town they live in ;
there, however, is some reason for this. The younger people

CANADA ;

all cast a longing eye towards Uncle Sam's possessions, and
hope to some day explore for themselves the wonders that
are so freely talked about on the return of those who have
visited the States and settled there, for of the numbers who
yearly visit their relatives, but few ever express a desire to
return to live, whilst the older people don't care so long
as they have enough for the time being, for, as one old
gentleman remarked, " What is the use of the Dominion
" Government expending vast sums of money for emigra-
" tion, if we can't keep either the laborers or domestics over
" here ; and it is my belief that Canada is just becoming a
" recruiting ground for the United States, and will eventually
"become annexed to that country." At Windsor the idea
is prevalent that the Wabash K. K. will purchase the Great
Western, and the people express their entire approbation and
delight at the prospect, and will hail the purchase, should it be
consummated, as an omen of a return to prosperity and good
times for their section of the country, for accounts of the
wonderful change wrought b^ the Canada Southern through
an otherwise barren district are continually quoted and
commented on.

Crossing once more to Detroit, wandering through its
spacious thoroughfares, admiring its public buildings;,
and visiting its immense elevators and wharves, it seems
hardly possible that the people across the river could know-
ingly have allowed such an opportunity of building a western
terminus to slip through their fingers, but the fact is apparent
to each visitor. Taking the night boat, " City of Detroit," we
have a pleasant run of 140 miles to Cleveland, arriving at the
latter city in time for an early breakfast at the Kennard ;
thence by the A. & G. W. to Buffalo, the Lake outlet of
the Erie and New York Central 11. R. A twenty-two mile

■ !

'■: fe

; ■ f

M.. •i- '

■»

FEOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

run further on brings ns to the famous Falls of Niagara,
where we conclude to stop at one of the fine hotels on the
American side. Whilst at the Spencer House it was my good
fortune to become acquainted with Sir Arthur Kennedy,
who with his amiable daughter and attendants were doing
the falls en route from Australia to London. Sir Arthur,
who was the Governor General of Queensland, has been an
official in Her Majesty's service some 38 years, and was
now: on his return to his native country. I found him a
most agreeable acquaintance, a studious and close observer
of human nature, and a perfect fund of information and
anecdote. His satire on the selfishness of Canadian politi-
cians and its grasping capitalists was certainly pungent and
pointed. The contrast between the magnificent hotels on
the American side and their reasonable charges with the
accommodation offered and extortion practised on the Cana-
dian side is most marked. The only hotels on the Canada
side affording a view of the Falls are the Prospect House,
owned by Isaacs and his father-in-law, Davis, the owner also
of Table Rock (they still stick to a good portion of the Israel-
itisli faith and despoil without mercy) and the Clifton House,
which latter is generally leased by speculators. There is
one other hotel on the Canada side commanding a good
view of the Falls, " The Brunswick." The following, given
for the information of intending visitors, is a correct copy
of a one day's board-biU on the Canada side :

1880.

Dr.

Room 115,-
Mr.

Board 1 Dy., Lodg, Bkft. &Din 7.00

Dinner claret, $1.50 ; Extras, 1.15..2.65
Bus 1 way, 50c ; 1 way, 25c 75

$10.40

il.

CANADA

And when the mild-eyed visitor informed the clerk that
he but arrived at 5 o'clock a.m., and was away again by 5
o'clock p.m., too early either for tea or supper, he was
assured by that gentleman that it was all right; the
charges were all the same whether meals were taken or not,
and, as a matter of great condescension, he informed the
visitor that next time he came to the Hotel they would
give him supper free of charge, knowing full well that one
slap each season is quite enough. No wonder, if those
charges are kept up, people from the States will no longer
sigh to do Niagara Falls for the summer, for the only way
to travel here would be to pay the bill but kill the clerk,
and so check high-handed despotism for the future.

Niagara Falls, once so noted and well-patronized, has, it
seems, of late years fallen into disrepute with the summer
travellers, and the cause is still left unexplained, although
numerous theories are advanced : whether it originates from
the grasping propensities of the hotel proprietors, or
whether it is a natural consequence of the scarcity of really
good views without large payments, is one of the facts for
the public themselves to determine ; but that patronage has
fallen off most lamentably of late is a fact well attested,
although I was assured by one searcher after truth that a
great sensation would be produced next season that would
once more awaken an interest in the Falls, for the leading
inhabitants had subscribed to a fund for bringing scientific
men to visit in a body, and as for some tirue carters and
others have been actively engaged in dumping rock both in
the waters above and below, it will soon be scientifically
demonstrated to a confiding public,and the figures accurately
given to prove, how fast far-famed Niagara is receding
towards Buffalo, and it will be ample proof the sight of the

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

immense pile of rock dumped from one end of Goat Island.
The effect at night when the rays of the vaii-colored
electric light are cast over the Falls from the park is one
of striking beauty, and makes up in measure for some of
the many disappointments experienced, whilst a walk
across the new Suspension bridge, almost in the midst of
the vapor arising from the Horseshoe, and a ramble along
the bank of the river to Clifton, two miles below, is really de-
lightful and pleasant ; but, finding a residence at the Falls
expensive, we journey on to Lewiston, seven miles below, on
the American side, thence across the lower river to Niagara
village, some twenty miles below, and on the borders of
Lake Ontario. This town is one of the oldest towns in the
Province of Ontario, and was formerly the seat of Govern-
ment. Here we found rest and quietness, good fishing — both
black bass, herring and white fish in abundance— quiet and
contented people; and moderate charges, a consummation
most devoutedly desired by all summer travellers. And were
tourists aware of the many advantages that are offered by this
almost forgotten little town, and of the pleasant sights and
trips on the lake that can be indulged in and the real enjoy-
ment obtained from a short stay, visitors would fiock here in
thousands instead of passing by almost without a notice. But
to enjoy a week's rest and catch the fish yourself for meals,
and find them served on the hotel table, piping hot within
thirty minutes after they have left the water, is an experience
worth miles of travel. The town, although so near the great
highways of travel, is completely isolated. Business, the little
that is attempted, follows the same routine from year to
year ; no energy is evinced, and consequently no desire for
improvements. Here the lone fisherman is found in his
primitive state, and even the bustling business man after a

.^L •

CANADA ;

short residence generally busies himself by endeavoring to
forget liis worldly education and enjoy the universal quiet
of the surroundings.

Ojiposite to the village, on the American side, stands
old F(jrt Niagara, silent, grim and sentinel-like, to guard
the entrance to the river in the interests of Uncle Sam.
The fort is very strong, being of regular construction,
and mounting many guns, with stone towers at the west,
south-west and south angles, and is now under the
command of Capt. J. L. Tiernan, who has seen such
active service on the plains and in the far west, and who at
present is resting on his laurels in peace and quietness,
which must contrast strongly with his lately adventurous
life, but who in time of danger would be probably wider
awake than to allow such a sacrifice of life as that permitted
by Capt. Leonard, whose command were mercilessly but-
chered in December, 1814, by tha Christian soldiers of a
Christian king. The attack by the British on the night of
December 19th, 1814, is thus chronicled : " The attacking
force comprised the 100th Eegiment, the Grenadiers, com-
panies of the first and the flank companies of the 41st, with
some artillerymen, the whole under the command of Col.
Murray of the 100th. Bateaux having been secretly con-
veyed overland from Burlington Beach to a point about four
miles up the British side of the river, the troops silently
left camp about ten o'clock at night, concealed their march
under cover of the adjacent woods, embarked without
noise, and landed undiscovered on the opposite side, whence
they descended cautiously towards the fort. At that time
Youngston, a village about two miles from the fort, served as
an outpost, and was garrisoned by a small detachment
from the fort. The attacking party thought it necessary

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

to surprise this outpost without alarmiug the main body ;
so a picked number were sent in advance, followed closely
by the renjainder of the attacking party. When they
arrived in Youngston, some of the former crept up stealthily
to the w.ndow and peeped in; they saw a party of ollicers
engaged at cards. ' What are trumps ? ' asked one of the
Americans. ' Bayonets are trumps,' answered one of the
peepers, breaking the window and entering with his com-
panions, whilst the remainder of the detachment surround-
ing the house rushed into it, and bayoneted the whole of its
defenseless inmates, that none might escape to alarm the
fort. Not a shot was fired on either side, the sentries having
retired into the building to shelter themselves from the
extreme cold, giving them no time for resistance, and there-
fore allowing their assailants to finish their work of human
destruction in grim silence. Eesuming their march the
attacking party drew near the fort, not a word was spoken,
the muskets carried squarely so the bayonets may not
clash ; the ice and crusted snow crackled beneath their tread,
but the sound was borne backward on the gusts of a north-
east wind, when suddenly the charger of Col. Hamilton
neighed loudly, and was answered by a horse in a stable
not far oft' from the front gate. The force instantly halted,
expecting to hear an alarm suddenly given, and the sound
of drums and bugles, and of the garrison rushing to their
posts, but all remained quiet ; the sentries, crouching in
their boxes, take the neigh of the charger for that of some
horse strayed from its farm house, or from some neighboring
hamlet, and they felt no inclination to shiveringly explore
the thick darkness of a moonless, wintry night. The
approaching force, finding all was still, put itself in motion,
went hastily and silently forward, and the crisis was near.

CANADA ;

The 'forlorn hope' was commanded by Lieut. Dawson
and led by Sergeant Spearman. Halting about twenty-five
yards from the gate, the Sergeant strode onward, and strange
to say found the wicket open. The sentry, hearing some
one approach, issued from his box and asked, ' Who comes
there ? ' Spearman answered, at the same time introducing
his shoulder through the half-opened wicket, 'I guess, Mr.,
I come from Youngston.' The sentry, perceiving from his
accoutrements and actions that he is an enemy, tm-ned in-
wards, exclaiming, ' The Brit — ' the poor fellow said no more,
Spearman's bayonet was in his side. The sergeant then
called the • forlorn hope,' which swiftly entered, followed
by the column ; the light company of the 100th made a rapid
circuit, and escaladed, and the whole attacking force in a
moment were inside the fort. Once inside they uttered a
terrific yell which roused the sleeping garrison and occa-
sioned a slight show of resistance. Lieut. Nolan of the 100th,
a man of great personal strength, rushed into the lower part
of the tower in order to bayonet the slumbering inmates.
Next morning his body was found, the breast pierced by a
deep bayonet wound, at the bottom of which were a musket
ball and three buckshot, but he had taken the lives of three
sleepers before he was stopped. One American lay at his
feet whom he had killed by a pistol shot, whilst the cloven
skulls of two others attested his strength and the rapidity
of his actions. Some of his men followed him and took the
tower, slaying its defenders to a man, and so brutalized
were the victors that they rushed wildly into every build-
ing, bayoneting every American they met. In half an hour
the fort was captured, and the blood-glutted victors sought
to drown their excitement in drink and sleep. The short con-
test cost the British, Lieut. Nolan and five men killed, and

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

two officers and three men wounded. The Americans loat
65 men, and two officers killed and twelve men wounded.
Thus fell Fort Niagara, and with such unexpected facility
as gave rise to the report that treasim had contributed to
its capture, and it was charged that C/'a])t. Leonard had
betrayed it by giving to the liritish all the necessary infor-
mation and countersigns. It was also known that a large
sum in specie was in the fort at the time of its capture, and
it was openly charged, and ever afterwards believed, that
some of the officers had embezzled the specie, and their
increased expenditures justiiied the accusation. No enquiry,
however, was made by the British, and the jmze money
which had been expected to be large was disappointingly
small. Although the Americans have to a great extent for-
given some of these massacres and extended the hand of
friendship to former enemies, still the descendants of these
marauding midnight butchers cherish within their breasts
the spirit of hatred and animosity towards the descendants
of those whom their fathers did their utm ost to destroy."

On the shoals near the fort are most excellent fishing
grounds, and the chief recreation of the summer visitor is to
sail out to the shoals, anchor their boat and lazily read or
dreamily pass the long sunnner day away. In the evenings
and on Sundays other recreations are of course indulged in.
The people of Niagara are friendly, hospitable and entertain-
ing in their way. A retired Scotch gentleman who had resided
here for the past four years, and with whom I had become
on intimate terms, after solemnly assuring me over and
over again that I was standing on historic and almost holy
ground, voluhteered to show the sights, so, after accepting
his kind offer, I accompanied him to the little church-yaixi
on the rise, where he pointed with pride to the graves of

t ,

'*',

■

(■

CANADA ;

seven young men who were dvovvned wlnlst ongn<,'e(l in the
unholy sport of yachting on Sunday. After drawing conclu-
sions, and pointing out the moral for my benefit, he then
proceeded to show the beauties of the battle ground and
recount how many fell, indulging meanwliilc in numerous
comments on the perversity of the ])eople of tluise times.
Seeingso many evidences of dissolution around me, and the
near approach to that somnambulent state by those still in the
flesh, we bid adieu to the peaceful little town, and a 15
miles drive brought us to St. Catharines. Here we see the
spirit of enterprise on every hand, contrasting strongly with
the town just left. All are agreed, and are loud in their anti-
cipations of the great benefits to be derived by enlarging
and making the Welland a ship canal, for the develo{)ment
of direct trade from the West to Europe, each one
bespeaking for this bustling little tt)wn a grand future,
and increasing prosperity for the country round about.

From St. Catharines it is but a half hour's run by rail
to Hamilton, which city is situated right in the l)ight
of Lake Ontario at its south-western extremity.
Here all the business of the Great Western Itailroad
is transacted, and under the able management of F.
Broughton, Chas. Stiff' and their efficient corps of officers,
the road is becoming rapidly one of the most prosperous
and best patronized in the Dominion, actively contending
with the Canada Southern for a portion of western trade.
Should an American company succeed in obtaining control,
the Great Western would become a Trunk route from
Chicago to the East, and would compete with the Grand
Trunk for a considerable portion of the carrying trade of Can-
ada, It was rather a curious fact to notice whilst in this
city the hold that Democracy has upon the people them-

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

8( Ives ; for several days it had been announced that H. R. H.
I* ince Leopold, the Princess Louise and suite, together
V, ith the Governor General, would })ass on their journey to
Niagara Falls and a tour through a i)ortion of the States,
still when the train arrived at the depot scarce 50 i)er8ons
were assembled to pay their respects to Royalty, and the
few attended mostly from motives of curiosity alone. About
the only ones to greet the party were the American Vice-
Coiisul, the railroad managers and a private American
citizen. No enthusiasm was evinced, not a cheer rent the
ai as a welcome ; silently the Royal party arrived and as
silently departed, but the episode served to convince us
more thoroughly that the people do not so tirmly pin their
belief in the " Divine right of Princes " as the official
sycophants would have us believe. At present there is a
wordy war progressing between the rich and poor on the
subject of the Ssatt A t debarring the sale of beer, wines
and spirits in small quantities ; the poor people look upon it
as a curtailment of their rights, and assert that, as they have
been brought by these people to this artificial mode of life,
they are only following scriptural advice, and trying to
" drink and forget their poverty and remember their misery
no more." The city itself lays some half mile back from
the depot, and contains about some 25,000 inhabitants. The
people themselves are an odd mixture of Yankee energy
jartially developed and old time tardiness; however,
several enterprises are established, and at present are in a
paying condition. There are a large proportion of Scotch
among the population, and they seem to vie with each
other in emulating American ways. The city "s a pleasant
one and the people congenial and social, and lc>ok forward
to renewed prosperity in the near future. Brighton and

CANADA ;

Burlington beadics, situated betwoon the bay and Lake
Ontario, are tlie favorite resorts of the people during the
summer.

Fr(»ni HaTuilton a nio.st delightful sail is by tiie
steamer "Southern Belle" or " liothesea Castle," two of
the old-time blockade Heet, to Toronto, a distance of some
40 miles. The vessels during the American war achieved
notoriety for speed as blockade runners from Nassau, but, of
course, they have been overhauled considerably, had upper
works and top hamper added, so as to almost alter their

■

appearance, although they still retain their reputation for
speed. The sail along the lake was one of the most delight-
ful that can be imagined. On a pleasant day, with the water
calm, and sailing under bright skies, nature itself seems
almost to enjoy and appreciate the holiday, and lend an
additional charm to the scenery on the borders of the lake.
The " Belle," under the command of Capt. Keith, has
become quite a favorite with both the people of Hamilton
and Toronto. Arriving at the latter city we were surprised
to see still another blockader, the old " Letter B," one of

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

the most famous of the Charleston fleet, ranking next to
tlie " Miir<,Mn't and -h^ssio " (afU^rwards captunjd olV (Jhai'hjs-
ton, S. C, on her lOth tiij), and converted into the Hnp])ly
steamer " Mus.saehu.setts "). The " Letter li " is now called
the " (yhicora," having been remodelled entirely above
her main deck on purpose for lake trade. She now runs
during the season, under command of Capt. Ilarbottle,
K. N. K., to Niagara. Capt. Har))ottle and his brotlier
navigator, (Japt. Dick, of the " City of Toronto," are ]»robably
the most po])ular men on the lake service, and although
strict discij)linaiians wliilst afloat, they are most courteous
to their passengers, and ashore socially are the jolliest of
comjjanions.

" The Law of Ood is greater tlmn your lawa !
Ye build your church with blood, your town with crime ;
The lieadrt thereof give jud^^ment tor reward ;
The priestH tliereofteacli only fur their hire ;
Yo\ir laws condemn the innocent to death,
And against this I bear my testimony."

Longfellow.

Toronto contains at present some 75,000 people, and is
situated on an arm of the lake. It is substantiallv
built, and is claimed to be the most enterprising city in the
Dominion, and is ambitiously striving to become the depot
for Lake and Ocean trade, and a transfer point from rail to
shipping. Whilst watching the arrival of the trains at the
Union depot, I noticed two enterprising Americans meet
and greet each other ; both were commercial men, and equally
animated with a desire to introduce their goods and secure
a portion of trade on a reciprocal basis. " Well, Jim," said
No. 1 , " wiiich way are you bound ? " " Back to God's country,"
said No. 2. " What ! " exclaimed the first, " back already ?

CANADA ;

Why, I thought you came here to make business and stay
awhile." " Well ! so I did," replied No. 2 sadly. " I tried
hard and thoroughly, and found these ' Kanucks ' an uncon-
genial set, almost entirely under the control of their jietty
politicians and masters ; they are like the ice on their shores,
you have to break it to get there, and when you arrive you
find nothing but rock, and their hearts are of the same
material ; in fact, they are the coldest, most selfish and most
unsocial people I ever met." An Italian, who had been
quietly engaged in sustaining the walls of the depot with
his back, overhearing their conversation, interrupted them
with, " Unsocial is it you call em ? oh bedad, there is wur ye
Tuak' the mistake. Sure I hadn't been in the city twenty-four
hours before me arm wuz bruk in two places, me legs was car-
ried away from under me, and by mornin me head wuz cover-
ed wid patches, and the Judge fined me five dollars, and all
for looking wrong way at a police, bad cess to him ! Bedad,
they are the most sociabilest people I ever saw." The business
men of the city are striving and enterprising, and were it
not for petty officials and leaders of opinion, who are con-
stantly both impeding and endeavoring to curtail and })lace
obstacles m the way of the trades develo})ment, Toronto
would soon be the leading city in the Dominion, surpassing
by far the city of Montreal. On the Sunday we had the
pleasure of attending St. Andrew's church, and of listen-
ing to a long dissertation on the history of Job and
his patience under trials, difficulties and despoliation,
which might have been modernized by the history of
many a God-fearing Southern family during the late war,
but somehow or another the preachers seem to have gone
back considerably on the bloodthirsty doctrines advocated
by Moses and his Hebrews, and dwell more and more on

-J

.*
,'~>

FROM THE LAKES TO THE (iCI.P.

2f6

those Gentiles or Heathen, such as Jol), wlinse faith was
firm in adversity, and freely quote him as ati example of
meekness and trust. The book that bears his name is a
pleasant one to read — treachery andmurdfi- occupy no part
of it; it is the meditations of a mind strongly impressed
with the vicissitudes of human life and by turn sinking
under and struggling against the pressure It is a highly-
wrought composition, between willing submission and in-
voluntary discontent, and shows man as he sometimes is,
more disposed to be resigned than he is capable of being,
after finding he has been despoiled by his fellows, but he
seemed deteri.iined, in the midst of ills and liardshi})S, to
impose upon himself the hard duty of contentment. It has
also been observed that the book itself proves to be the
production of a mind cultivated in science, of the know-
ledge of which the Jews were very ignorant, and certainly
were as illiterate and superstitious as Southern negroes
at the close of the war. The prayers of Job were touching,
and evinced a strong and earnest faith, greatly in contrast to
those of the Hebrews, for the Jews never prayed but when
they were in trouble, and then never for anything but vic-
tory, vengeance and riches. The sermon was an appropriate
one, for in a few days the community were about to hang
to the death an unfortunate fellow-being who, in a moment
of rashness, and under the influence of a false education,
had attempted to obtain what he considered his rights, by
firing a shot with the intent to kill his employer, — a wound
was inflicted by the servant's act, and shortly afterwards
the employer died, even then it was stated possibly from his
own indiscretion. The meek and lowly followers of Chris-
tianity, bearing in mind the prayer of their Saviour whilst
in His death agonies " Father forgive them for they know

CANADA ;

not what they do," demanded at once the life of a fellow-
being. A judge and jury were quickly got together, the
man found guilty, sentence of death passed upon him, and
some of the newspapers remarked " that the life about to
be sacrificed, even were it a dozen, were nothing to the one
that had gone before." Fie upon the belief that God made
man in His own image, and the prayer Our Father, when
such practices on a brother can be tolerated by a Christian
people. And even after the hurriedly-passed sentence had
been carried out on the body of the poor wretch, there
seemed to be a grim exultation when the papers noticed
the fact that the man was poor, and no friends had visited
him whilst in jail, and the executioner had tortured the
condemned by strapping him so tightly as to cause him to
cry out with pain before hanging.

In order to preserve the sanctity of a human life the
Government, rulers and leaders of opinion, should set the
exam})le, and, by jirompt punishmetit for crimes committed,
impress the crimii^al with the certainty of punishment, and
the knowledge that the Government would reap the bene-
fit of his services for the remainder of his life. Far more
fear took possession of the evil-doer, and more terror struck
the hearts of the Venetians, by the terrible uncertainty as
to what became of the one condenmed aftei- he crossed the
Bridge of Sighs. When the verdict of guilty is rendered
and the sentence pronounced, the criminal should be for-
ever lost to the world outside, and his disposal left a mat-
ter of mere conjecture to the community, the mode of pun-
ishment being known only to the Government and its
officials. Students of psychology assert that, after the
sudden removal from life, the spirit hovers near liie scene
of its execution, and we know that with all its evil thoughts

,' »

1^ ^i«? i

I. .^

I:"

FROM THE EAKES TO THE GULF.

and those still more bitter, tliat on meeting with a kindred
spirit in the flesh with whom it can come in rapport, it at
once identifies itself with its living " companion, so that the
evil thoughts and actions of the last shall be worse than the
first" ; or, not finding a medium to affiliate with, will, like the
apparition that appeared in December, 1628, at the Palace
of Berlin, called upon the Almighty, and was heard to say :
" Veui judica vivos et mortuos ! Judicium mihi adhuc super-
est." — Come, judge the quick and the dead ! I wait for
judgment. That the disembodied spirit does hover about
the spot of its taking off is a well attested fact, and, as in but
a short time we shall have to appear before the Almighty
power that created us, it is my belief that there is no crime
in the category that will justify the taking of a life of a
fellow-being. Surely the punishment by the power that
created us will be far more terrible and complete than the
pitiful vengeance man can mete out, and oftentimes unjustly
Again the constant repetition and hearing of such scenes
brings to the surface, and fosters in the heart, all the baser
passions of mankind, besides breeding a feeling of contempt
for the life of another, that all the outward forms of Chris-
tianity cannot obliterate.

Among the principal buildings are a University
and a Cathedral The church of the Holy Trinity
was erected by a donation from a wealthy person in
England of £5,000, and the seats were conditioned to
remain free. As in other places both churches and min-
isters are for the most part merely tolerated; the seem-
ing fondness for both church and pastor are in a great
measure merely affectation. Employers attend in order
to set an example to their employees, their wives and
daughters to display their finery, whilst the servants attend

CANADA ;

'&■

in order to stand well in the esteem of their masters, but
both seem to have no particular love for the preacher.

The hotels of Toronto are well kept, and the public
generally are well catered for at a moderate charge,
impositions on travellers are very rarely practiced, and,
taken altogether, the city will some day become a pleasant
resort for enterprising and speculative Americans. The
Great Western here joins the Grand Trunk Itailroad, thus
forming a continuous line through to Montreal and Quebec.
Toronto Bay is a popular resort for yachting, boating, and
other aquatic sports, and is well patronized, whilst on
Sunday Hanlan's Island is the resort of the boys, as the
bar at Hanlan's hotel is always open without any
restraint. Amongst the cosmopolitan population assembled
here in summer time how easy it is " to distinguish the
cdld-blooded calculating denizen of the northern latitude
from the vivacious warm-hearted resident of southern
climes, Mexico or Cuba, but possibly the climate makes the
difference, not only with men, but with plants, trees and
even animals : the new-comer lately from his sunny clime
is full of life and vigor, and liberal in his views, but were
he to remain here no doubt he would become as inert and
useless in this frigid zone as many of the inhabitants
themselves. • '

Embarking on board the steamer " Spartan " of the
Eichelieu and Ontario line — which line it is asserted
is about to pass over to American ownership — we arrive
successively at Port Hope, Cobourg, Cataraqui, and are
soon among the noted Thousand Islands. These
islands, of which there are some 1,800, commence about
six miles below Kingston, and extend for several miles
down the St. Lawrence river. Our passengers, whilst admir-

■ 1 !

o
o

:v I

Viv

FROM TITF LAKES TO THE GULF.

ing the islands (at this season of the year covered with
verdure), rather took as a grim odieial joke the (Govern-
ment notice that the virgin forests were to be preserved,
and affixing a penalty to any one found feUing tiniluu- on the
islands. Now about the only ones we could imagine attempt-
ing to fell timber would be some forlorn jay hawker from
Kansas, where they have no timber except willow and
cornstalks, and he would oidy fell it with his pocket-knife
for toothpicks, for on many of the islands if an unfor-
tunate goat were to land at night he would browse away all
the timber before morning. Some of the islands are so large
that a cat might sit on them by keeping perfectly still,
but to keep dry she would either have to wrap her tail
around her neck, or else let it drop in the water. (N.B.
Some of the Islands are for sale, full particulars, etc., from
agent.) G. M. Pulman, of .sleeping car notoriety, owns one of
the Islands near the American shore.

All along after leaving Port Hope the surface of the lake
and river was covered with myriads of dead fish about the
size of a shadine, and numerous theories were advanced by
our passengers to account for their sudden demise. The day
1)eing very hot, a scientific piscaculturist insisted on the
theory that the sun shone so intensely, so bright, and so
warm, that the fish, startled at such an unusual sight, came
to the surface of the water to ascertain the cause, when, of
course, they were sunstruck and died immediately. Upon ex-
pressing this opinion, the votary of science was unanimously
requested to take a back seat, and study theology for the
balance of the trip. Another theory given was that the Fish
Commissioners, having obtained a grant of cash from the
Government for the propagation of fish in the rivers and
lakes, had wisely expended the amount, less their own

-1

CANADA ;

percentage, in trying to acclimate salt water shad to the
fresh waters of the lakes and rivers, and, having used all
the cash appropriated, were now asking for more to further
the experiment and enrich themselves. Seth Green might
take a lesson from the knowledge of the Canadian Fish
propagators, or at any rate we could find a few Americans
who would constitue as good a Fish Commission, and
render as voluminous a report as those worthies on the
Salmon disease, Messrs. Buckland, Walford and Young,
the grand triumvirate of Fisheries Inspection for Great
Britain, who lately finished their investigations as a com-
mission into the nature and cause of Sahnon disease, and
rendered their report of 1420 pages of closely printed
matter in which they state, " that the fungus looks like
wet brown paper, and is really a kind of soft down which
attacks the salmon's nose, and thence directing its attention
to the back of its head, tail and fins, so enfeebles and dila-
pidates the fish that it swims about in an imbecile
manner on the top of the water, and eventually dies mad.
The disease is known scientifically as Saprolegnia, and is
considered to be ' like ' the muscardine which attacks silk-
worms, and not far removed from fungoid diseases which
attack man and vegetables.* * * The fish are Tiof good
to eat and are not pretty to look upon. It may be a new
ailment or it may be an old one, and though the Commis-
sioners incline to the latter opinion, they cannot speak with
any assurance. As to its cure, it may be effected in two
ways : either by eradicating the disease or by rendering the
fish less susceptible to its attacks ; " but which method
should be employed the Fisheries Inpectors would not ven-
ture to assert. Meanwhile the Hon. Commissioners are of
the opinion that " all dead fish should be removed from

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

the rivers and buried above high water mark or burned ;
and, after all, the Commissioners fear that these conclusions
are inadequate." If any three lunatics in American asy-
lums could not prepare a better report for the Government
for the sum of $1000 than these Hon. Commissioners,
then it is about time (iither that they were hanged or
otherwise elected to office by their fellow citizens.

After leaving the Islands we next call at Brockville, a
thriving little town of some 6000 inhabitants, and connected
with the capital by the Brockville and Ottawa R. R., thence
on to Prescott, where we remain to witness the military
mancEUvres and the sham fight on Dominion Day. In no two
counties or states can a greater contrast be seen than is
here presented by the Village of Prescott on the Canadian
side and the City ot Ogdensburg in the State of New York.
Wliilst the one shows American thrift, go-aheadiveness and
prosperity, the other looks nothing but a sh ill or a ruin. The
town itself is in a wretched condition, thi streets ill kept,
business is but small, and, were it not for the small amount
of cash spent by summer visitors and railroad travellers, the
people must either starve or emigrate. Although the Bank
commands a good amount of capital, it demands such
terms for its use that no improvements are ever thoi'ght
of, and its merchants have no idea of ever increasing their
trade. There are two breweries and a distillery in Prescott,
the owner of the distillery is a member of Parliament,
and distills enough whisky to control every vote in his dis-
trict. He is also one of the most enterprising men in the place,
and one who endeavors to keep up with tlie times, making
several trips yearly to the States, and no doubt adding to
his general stock of knowledge, as also to his fine breed of
stock. The hotels are small and prices proportionately

JLL^.

86 CANADA ;

hil^li, livinjj; poor, iiiul tlio visitor is very n])t to make
foreiji,'!! iU'ilUiiinliinoos at aliiinst any liour of tlu; day i>r
ni<j[lit, he may occupy liis room. I)omiiiioii Day in
Presfott was the great day of tlie year, the militia \\{'\v.
en(!ami)ed for their annual drill. A sham (ijjiht was to he
induljft'd in, and un attack made on old Fort Wellini^ton,
which is fondly imagined hy tlui citizens tu .stand as a
menace to the people on the other side of the river. The
militia lM)ys, the sons of sn)all fai'iners — raw n^crnits hut a

CITT OF OTTAWA.

few days before — went very mnlitahly tlirough their work,
and aided in ctmvincing me that the improvised soldier is,
under certaiii ch'cuinsifanceK, quite equal to the pro-
fessional hireling, for, during the civil war in the United
States, it was on several occasions demonstrated that a small
and i)atriotic eomnuind whipped and nearly annihilated a
well-e(iuip])ed and veteran army of twice their number,
but it is still to the interests of the rulers of the people to

FROM THE I-AKE8 TO THE GULF.

ar.

work,
icr is,
> pro-
'iiitecl
, small
a ted a
u in 1)61",
ople to

mbriu'. false ideas upon this point. It is dnu here to state
that the niilitia were drilled nnder the personal super-
vision of the old veteran, Col. (?. Shepherd, who, after
years of active service in the Jvist, is now passing the even-
ing of life in his j)leasant home at JJnrritt's liapids.

It was by an aitack on Fort Wellington from Windmill
Point with a small company of liberators that the gallant,
brave and noble l\)lander. Col. Von Schonltz, in the year
181)8, won for himself a lasting name and a respectful
word even from the lips of his enemies. He was the soul of
honor, and as cool of head as he was brave in heart, and
even though he perished with his faithful band of followers,
still he was revered as u foeuian worthy of a better cause.
IJut had he been guided (even feebly as he was supported)
by an intelligence brighter than his own, success instead of
defeat would have crowned his efforts and his cause ; but
liis superior ofHcer, General Birge, was the impersonifica-
tion of absolute cowardice and a thorough craven at heart
who brought upon himself, by his false promises, the obliquy,
of the loss of lives more precious than his own, whilst his
name became a by-word and reproach, for the men who
sacrificed their lives even in a fruitless cause were
esteemed and respected by all.

Mr. Mac Donald, the bearer of the king's despatches
from Toronto to Syracuse, at the time of the siege, is yet
alive, and actively engaged merchandizing in the City of
Montreal, and, although now waning in years, is social,
energetic, still on the qui vive for business opportunities.

From Prescott to Ottawa is but a two hours' ride by the
most dilapidated road in the Dominion, and through an
unproductive region. The land is barren and sandy, and
covered partially with rank growths and scrub timber

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.'i:

CANADA ;

entirely unfit for agricultural purposes, but still has good
locations for manufactories of various kinds. The inhabi-
tants when pointed out their opportunities ar.a rallied on
their lack of enterprise invariably reply, " Oh this is a
new country you know. It will take time to develop it."
Still it is an older country than the States, and note what
they have accomplished in the last one hundred years, or
take for example even a section, the Southern States, who
fifteen years ago, at the close of the war, found her lands
laid waste, her houses burnt, her fences destroyed, her lal)or
scattered or driven off, and her produce carried away out of
the country, in fact she was the realization of desolation
itself. Now see the change : her houses are rebuilt, farms
are well tilled, manufactories are estalilished at many points,
and to-day the Southern section is the most prosj)erous of
any section of the whole country, and the prosperity of the
South has materially assisted in causing a return of good
times throughout the whole nation and its influence is
even felt throughout the Dominion.

The City of Ottawa, the seat of the Imperial Government
of the Dominion, is situated on the l)anks of the Ottawa river,
just below the Chaudiere Falls. These falls at one time were
probably i^uite a feature in the scenery of the city, but now
they are so marred and disfigured by log runs, canals, saw
mills on the banks, &c., &c., as to destroy in a great measure
both the view and the romance of such a natural attraction.
The present population of the city is about 15,000, and is
divided into two classes — Government officials and lumber
dealers, raftsmen or connected in some way with the
lumber interests. The whole trade of the city is supported
by these classes, and it is safe to bet that every second per-
son is a something in the civil service. The Parliamentary

O
C

(

;

ii
\

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

Houses are a splendid block of buildings in the Italian
Gothic style of architecture, and cost the people of the
Dominion the sum of $3,000,000 in their erection. They are
pleasantly situated on the summit of rising ground overlook-
ing the river and falls ; the grounds are well laid out, and pre-
sent a good appearance. Parliament being dissolved but
few of the members remain in the city, most of the pro-
minent officials being off on their summer vacation, — those
remaining are generally interested in the mission of Sir
John A. Macdonald, who visits Europe in the endeavor
to induce British capital to aid in the construction of the
Northern Pacific Eailroad. These hungry political cormo-
rants are watching with eager and expectant eyes every
move, and anxiously awaiting their chance to get a finger
in the pie ; but the English capitalists are getting to be a
wary set, although a prominent stock-broker in Thread-
needle street, London, averred that, in the City of London
alone, there was some £50,000,000, seeking an investment
in 1880; they have been bitten so often by honest
Canadian speculation that now they are rather timid about
investing, — they have not forgotten the Grand Trunk or the
Great Western, and other seemingly good and promising
speculations, of the long ago and they are probably well
acquainted with the fact that millions of dollars have
already been spent in the swamps (or by the managers) in
making even as feeble an attempt as that which has been
accomplished. Tons of rails have been laid to rust and rot
in heaps in out-of-tlie-way places, ties and timber have
been placed in piles and then carted away, government
money has been spent on every jtretext, and the results
are only apparent in the improved appearance of the city
dwellings owned by the promoters of the road. As [a.

CANADA ;

" Credit Mobilier " or a " South Sea Bubble " tlie Canadian
Pacific will discount them all. Should England refuse
her aid, it is the intention of the promoters to appeal to
France, and should France decline to be bled then it is
the intention, as a dernier ressort, to pit themselves
against the Yankees, to see if there are lambs enough to
make it an object to attempt to skin tliem. Sir John, who
in ap])earance is not unlike Lord Beaconsfield the ex-Pre-
mier of England, is about smart enough for politicians here,
and, naving returned from his trip to England successfully
worked a bill* through Parliament creating and contracting
for the building of the Canada Pacific liailroad.

PI « .lOIlN A. MAODONALD.

BIR A. T. OALT.

Sir Jolm A. Macdonald, \]\*. Prime Minister of Canada,
is a man about sixty years of age, with a half- Jewish,
half-Scotch cast of countenance, his face wrinkled and
tough-hx)king, but not unpleasant to gaze upon. In
manner he is genial, and has constantly a smile for
all who approach. In speech he is cool, collected, and
a trifle hesitating, sarcastic, humorous, and sometimes
witty in his remarks, quick to grasp a subject, forcible in

t. 11

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

his criticisms, a raan whose exterior gives no signs of the
passions ruling within.

Even should the road become an accomplished fact,
the results would be anything but satisfactory to the
investor, for, running for the most part tlirough an unpro-
ductive rocky and swampy country, and for a period of
from five to seven months each year being closed altogether
to travel of any kind, returns from the small amount of
Pacific territory to be drained would have to be something
enormous to even pay expenses, much less interest on
capital, and wear and tear of machinery and plant. Tlien,
again, with such active coui])etition as will be brought to
bear by the Northern and Southern Pacific roads of the
United States the Canada road would stand no chance at all.
The N. P., or National Policy, comes in for a good share of
controversy at present. Its advocates point with pride to
the results of the policy of protection in the United States
and of the industries fostered and noiiii bed by its protect-
ing influences. The opposition contend " that, whilst pro-
tection may be of benefit to a country with a climate and
soil that can raise such a diversity of products as not only
to supply the actual wants, but also all the artificial require-
ments of its population, protection will never amount
to much in Canada, for the simple reason that there is but
little to protect either in staple industries < ir minerals. It
is true the Canadians have an almost boundless continent
from the banks of the St. Lawrence clear up to the North
Pole itself, but the only inhabitants of those higher regions,
the bears, wolves and seals, do not appear to care a cent
whether they are protected by the N. P. or not. The
Princess Louise, wife of the Governor General, accompanied
by her brother, Prince Leopold, and suite, left for England

CANADA ;

i I

on a visit and to recruit her health, therefore the fashion*
ables and (camp) court followers were also on ii tour. It
was expected at tirst that her husband, the Marquis of
Lome, would have accompanied her, but, from politic
reasons, he made a tour of the Lower Provinces instead.
Possibly the Marquis feels that he can enjoy himself
better a- '. vith more freedom in the Dominion than he
can at the Court of St. James, for the Londoners assert
that the Marquis is not over anxious to reside among
them and his stay in their City on tlie occasion of
his visits was certainly very limited. The Marquis of
Lome i- 1 :>'.-'jkinned, blue-eyed, light-haired little
genthman, g < atured, and just diffident enough to
be lod by the poHiici'jus, and to accept the Governorship
of t!ie L ')i men so t. ' . be out of the way cf his royal
relations. The .-. iinci."r j. ' '' „ , Marchioness of Lome, is a
lady of medium height, with a good-natured face, and,
were she not a princess, would be just the sort of lovable
home wife to make a man happy. Although not possessed of
a style of beauty equal to her royal sister-in-law the
Princess Alexandra, still she has that pleasant cast of
countenance that marks so distinctively the chiUlren of
Queen Victoria. Being a princess to the manor born, of
course she wishes for court etiquette, the Marquis, also
asj)ires, whilst in Canada, to follow the manners in vogue
at the Court of London; whilst to the tailors and dress
makers of the Capital the Canadians are indebted for
some of the absurd and ridiculous fashions now consi-
dered an, fait at the Court of Ottawa. During this
aaministration low-necked dresses, short sleeves, or
doctors' certificates, were first instituted as costume for
the ladies at receptions, and in this latitude it is

■/3

FROM TUE LAKES TO THE GULF.

especially appropriate and becoming : fancy Mrs. J. Muggins
Jones, weighing 905 or 509 lbs. the wife of a retired eating-
house keejier, after months of earnest supplication, solicita-
tion, and fees innumerable, to ushers, secretaries, and under-
strapi)ers generally, has at last the wish of her heart and
prayer of her life answered, for she and Mr. J. Muggins
Jones are to be presented at Court. On the day appointed
for the presentation, the happy pair drive to the Vice-Kegal
residence in their own carriage, adorned with the newly-
emblazoned family coat of arms — une saucisse, deux
pommes de terre assiette, coiiteum fourckette a la crosswise^
probably. Notice the happy smile that illumines the
countenance of Mrs. J. M. J. as the footman alights from
his post on the box with the coachman, and opens the door
of tlie carriage for her ladyship to descend ; then behold her,
after being assisted to alight, take the arm of her lord, and
with stately tread mount the steps to the Gubernalurial
mansion ; then, handing her wrap to the first high watcher
of the door bell, she takes her place in a line with otiiers for
the presentation. Poor Jones all this time feels ill at ease,
he gazes on his brogans, and wonders if No. IG feet are the
usual size admitted to Court, he gets himself into a pi'ofuse
perspiration in attempting to draw a No. 9 glove over a
hand like the hand of Providence, covered with warts and
freckles; finally the kid gives way, and he feels like reliev-
ing his mind in good old home style, but is silently admon-
ished by his wife, so he occupies the balance of his time in
endeavoring to remember the instructions in the book as to
how to accomplish the recherche court bow, but he can re-
member everything but that and his prayers. The hearts of
himself and spouse are in a flutter, p,nd each moment rise
higher and higher in their throats. At last their names are

CANADA ;

oiillod, and they am ushered into tlie Vice-Re<^ul ])re.sence.
Then l)('h()l(l the conple, at tlie zenith of tlieir aiiihition,
Madiiine Jones, like the Queen of Sheha or an immense higer
hier ])arrel, attired in a beautiful blue silk, cut bias in the
l)ack, and low-necked to the waist, short-sh^eved in front :
warm witli excitement, perspiration and grease oozing
from every ytore, and a smile of gratified ambition upon her
face. Her better half in his dress suit of black lu'oadcloth
trying to look unconcerned, but missing it every time, with
gi-eat beads of perspiration on his brow, his hands convul-
sively either clutcliing his watch-chain or hunting for the
pocket-handkerchief he dropped in the ante-room. There
the couple stand, presented at court, monuments of gratified
ambition, silent, stupid, but grateful and satisfied plum
down to their boot heels. Jones is soon brought to his
senses by tlie usher of the red bamboo tapping him on the
head to remind him of his obeisance. All at once he
remembers his court bow, and, in attempting to execute it,
bends too low, and goes sprawling on all fours. His
spouse, noticing her lord's discomfiture, endeavors to
rectify it by placing her hand upon her heart and
dropping a conrtesy, but for such a mountain of fiesh
to expand something must give way, so, whilst attempt-
ing to courtsey, buttons from the back of the beautiful
blue silk fly in every direction, whilst a lace in her
elegant corsets snapped like a whip and in attempting
to back out from the Vice-Regal presence she overturned
a ]>age who was approaching with a wrap, and sitting
down upon him flattened him out like a pancake on Shrove
Tuesday ; but the ordeal was passed, the presentation
Mas over, and the Joneses returned to their family man-
sion, feeling that they were no longer of the lower

FKOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

4»

orders, and already began to despise the " vulgah horde "
who liad never been ])resented at court. What mattered
the cold and consequent fever that laid that amiable and
aspiring woman up fur the next two months, or the at-
tack of rheumatism that confitied Jones liimself to the
house, had they not attained the highest pinnacle of their
ambition, and was not Jones when he went to his old sau-
sage factory to cullect the rents looked upon with awe and
reverence when his exploits became known to the common
peo])le, in fact, the Joneses were daily becoming more con-
scious of their greatness and superiority. It is stated that
several new orders of knighthood will be introduced at
court next season, and will be conferred on the worthy ones,
i.e., those who pay, at extremely low prices for cash, and
soon our ears will become familiar with such sounds as
Juke Moses Abram Isaacs Threebal, Lord Squeezem
Banker Smith, Sir Charcuterie Francis, Et. Hon, Cent per
Cent Grabal, etc. It is also rumored that on the return of
Kuyalty the court ladies themselves are to become exclu-
sive and distinctive, and no doubt we shall soon hear of
orders amongst the fair sex that will outshine in dignity
any honors the sterner relatives can acquire or assume.
In order to uphold the anticipated magnificence of the
Court and imbue the commonalty with a due appreciation
of its dignity, it will so(3n be necessary for the Government
of the Dominion to follow the example of the Province of
Quebec and go to France to borrow a few more millions
at 5 or 8 per cent., and then levy a tax for interest. The
trade in lumber at Ottawa is something enormous, and the
demand is yearly increasing, employing in the timber
districts North, a vast number of men during the winter
season.

CANADA ;

Leavin}:; Ottawa oiico more, we reacli rrosoott in time
to take the steamei- " Algerian " for Montreal, and soon
are running through the («alo|) Rapid, thence through Long
Sault, a continuouH ra[>id of nine miles in length. The sensa-
tion exj)erienced in descending the rapids is a very pleasing
one : steam is shut down, and the vessel glides silently
along at the rate of 14 or If) miles an hour by the force of
the current alone. Great accuracy has to be observed in
steering the craft, and in ord(!r to accomidish this object
the steering gear is of the best, and the steering wheels are
double, and in descending the rai)ids a tiller is placed astern,
so that it can be manned as well as the double wheels, and
when the little steamer .strains, labors and i)itches headlong
into the boiling caiddron at Lachine the feeling is a peculiar
one, being akin to the idea that the boat is settling down ;
but under the guidance of old Bdpfiste, the Indian pilot,
we are soon through, and come in sight of the bronzed dome
of the Bonsecours market and the great Victoria tubular
bridge, that connects the island of Montreal with the main-
land. The bridge is about two miles in length, spanning
the St. Lawrence river, the construction of which, in
connection with the Grand Trunk ]I.R., cost the early
investors some millions of dollars, the bridge alone costing
fully S6, 250,000, the loss of wliich capital it will take them
still some time to forget. Then under the bridge, and in a
few moments we are moored alongside the wharf and landed.

CAUGIINAWAGA BELL.

II! ■:!.

Almost opposite Lachine, on the south side of the river,
is the village of Caughnawaga, where the mail boat takes
on board the Indian pilot Baptiste, to assist in guiding the
eteamer thi'ough the wildest and most dangerous of all the

FROM THE lAKES TO THE GULP.

mpids, tlui " Liichine," that commoncos just below the town.
The villaj^e is comiioscd of a few streets of log huts, hut in
eontra-distiiiction to tlie poverty of the surroundinj^s
stands a massive stone church, in the belfry of which hang
two bells, one a large and modern one, whilst the other is a
small one of the last century, and is of itself the subject of
an historical legend, in the manner of its acquirement. It
seems that, in the year 1090, one Father Nicols, one of
those Missionaries who were the first to set the example
of Christianizing the heathen, who had made numerous
converts from amongst the Indians of the Caughnawaga
tribe, had persuaded his hearers to give him furs enough
to ere{;t his church, and when they were all converted, he
convinced them that religion was not worth having unless
they hud a bell to their church, so they becaiae enthusias-
tic in the cause of the bell, and, so to speak, passed round
the hat, and contributed a goodly portion of the furs that
they had secured from their season's hunt to purchase the
l>ell for their edifice. Of course the 1. dians did not know
what a bell was, but believed it was a something that spoke
in consecrated and angelic tones, and was a necessary
adjunct to their new religion. They soon accumulated a
considerable stock of furs, which were sent by Father
Nicols to an ecclesiastical friend in Havre, France, who ex-
changed them for the article required, and no doubt divided
the profits, and shipped the bell to Montreal. For some time
the priest and his tribe of converts awaited its arrival, and
it was thought at length that the vessel had foundered, but
after a while the news reached them that it had been cap-
tured by an P>iglish man-of-war, taken to the port of Salem,
Mass., and, further, that the bell was hung in a church at
Deerfield, and rang in the interests of heretics instead of

CANADA ;

good Catholics. This intelligence, through the wise coun-
selling of the priest, not only made the Indians mad, hut
aroused their savage resentment. The priest advisjd them
that the bell, which had not yet received the sacrament of
baptism, was a captive in the custody of heretics, and caused
them to register a vow that the first opportunity that
occurred should be taken tor its recovery. Some years
passed before a chance offered, but the time was not lost,
for Father Nicois' converts were enthusiasts, and diligently
employed in adding new converts to tlie cause of Chris-
tianity, and in religiously plying the tomahawk and scalp-
ing knife upon such of their unregunerate neighbors as
refused to acknowledge the new faith. But in the year 1704
the Marquis de Vaudreuil, then Governor of Canada, wish-
ing to kill as many Englishmen as possible by stealth
and strategy, as well as open warfare, went to the meek
and lowly follower and advocate of Christianity, as the
diplomatic head of the tribe, and prayed for the aid of the
Caughnawagas to assist him to destroy his foes ; but the
holy father would oidy give his consent to lead a mur-
dering and pillaging expedition upon the tacit understand-
ing that the objective point should be the town of Beer-
field. This condition, of course, was acceded to, and so the
man of God asseniltled his savage converts, and with
uplifted hands and stirring words informed them that the
time for rescuing the bell had arrived, and a])j)ealed to
them in the name of the Deity to rally, and march upon
the crusade for its recovery. Like a second CJideon, he i)laced
himself at their liead, and liis words and actions awoke
enthusiasm in their savag(^ hearts. Weapons were put in
order, war paint donned, and in the middle of winter the
savages, with their Christian pastor as a leader, departed to

FROM THE LA.KES TO THE GULF.

join the regulars of the Marquis at Fort Chambly. The
French troops, unaccustomed to travelling through snow-
drifts and to endure the hardships of winter warfare, were
with difficulty restrained from mutiny, but the Indians,
familiar with snowshoe travel, progressed almost as easily
as if the season had been summer. At the head of his
savage Christian legion marched Father Nicols on his
errand of murder and pillage, whilst by his side a stalwart
convert bore the banner of the cross as an offset. At night
the Indians were cheered by the voice of their leader in
prayer and exhortation. Arriving at the head of Lake
Champlain, the expedition marched upon the ice, unl/d the
spot now occupied by the City of Burlington was reached,
when it took its course by compass through the wilderness
of Vermont for Deerfield. Considerable hardships were
endured by the expedition, but Father Nicols, sustained by
remarkable zeal, continued on, until the expedition, on the
29th of February, saw in the distance its destination, and
awaited the approach of night some four miles from town.
At daylight De Rouville ordered his forces to advance. A
strong wind was blowing, encrusted with ice, which broke
beneath the weight of his men ; he therefore adopted the
ruse of ordering the column to proceed a short distance
upon the run, then to halt suddenly, thus imitating the
sound of gusts of wind. The inhabitants of the town were
wholly unsuspicious of any movement against them, aud,
like the people of Liash of old, were wrapt in profound
slumber. Even the solitary sentinel was asleep, and the hard
snow piled nearly to the top of the stockades gave the
assaulting an easy means of ingress. Quickly and sileutly
they scaled the walls, and the sleeping sentinel was i\\^
first to receive his death-blow from a tomahawk. The

il*::;

1 '.:

CANADA ;

^ !■

surprise was complete, and no resistance was offered. Then
a terrible scene of massacre occurred ; some few escaped,
numbers were slain, and about one hundred and twenty
jnade ])ri3oners. The troops rioted amid the plumlor, l)ut
the Indians were after their bell. At the request of Kiither
Xicols, the commandant despatched a soldier to rin^ it. As
the first tones of the bell sounded on the cold morniiit^ air
and fell upon their ears, they reverently knelt, whilst the
priest solemnly returned thanks to God for their success,
and invoked a blessing on the murders they had committed.
What a sight ! the ground strewn with the mangled and
mutilated corpses of the innocent slain ; the trembling
captives mourning the loss of relatives, friends and homes,
and fearing death and even worse at the hands of their bar-
barous captors ; the savages seeking to do homage to an un-
known (Jod whose precej)ts commanded love and kimhiess,
but whom, through the doctrine and instruction of a ]ire-
ceptor they sought to serve by slaughter and cruelty. The
bell was removed from the ])elfry and hung upon cross jioles
in order to be tninsported, the l)uildings of the place iired,
and the party retreated ; the ca})tives, men, women and
children, were forced to keep up with the column, an<l wlieu
they dropped through exhaustion, or were unal)le to keej>
up, they were tomahawked before the view of the others,
and their gory scalps added to tliose on the Ixilts of their
savage captors. By the time they arrived at lUirlington
Bay the Indians were thoroughly tired out with carrying
the bell, wliose weight their snowshoes would not sustain,
so they found a likely sj)ot and buried it. In the
spring, u])on their return, they found the bell had been
undisturbed, and with joy the party bore it homeward,
whilst those at Caughnawaga anxiously awaited its arrival,

n
1.

(

ad
po

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

for those who had been on the expedition for its capture
had described it in glowing t«rms. It was said that its
tones were sweeter than those of the birds, clearer than the
rippling melody of the river, and that it could be heard
beyond the murmuring of the rapids. At length, whilst all
were discussing the anticipated arrival, a novel sound was
heard in the woods, and interest being awakened, a voice
shouted " the bell ! it is the bell ! " when rushing to the
edge of the clearing they met the returning expedition, at
the head of which were yoked two snow-white oxen bear-
ing the bell hung between them. Both bell and oxen were
adorned with wreaths of leaves and wild flowers. The bell,
after being closely examined and commented upon by the
curious, was raised to its place in the belfry, and awoke
with its tones the echoes of the St. Lawrence. The Indians
for some time continued their rejoicings, but the sound of
the bell fell upon the ears of the captives as the
death knells of murdered relatives, and as a reminder of
destroyed and desolated homes, and which they despaired
of ever again beholding. However, two years later, the
Governor of Massachusetts, together with the Governor of
Canada, succeeded in obtaining the release of the survivors,
some fifty-seven in number. Such is the history of the bell
of Caughnawaga, and it is believed to be strictly true in all
its particulars.

MONTREAL.

Montreal claims to be the lara; 'st city in British North
America, with a population of some 130,000, and is an
admixture of the greed and selfishness of the English
portion with the shrewdness of the French habitants.
Its wharves, extending from the foot of the canal some

CANADA ;

h ;','

two miles down the river, are substantially huilt of
wood projecting from a broad terrace faced with grey lime-
stone. The controllers of the ship])ing interests have cer-
tainly persevered in order to obtain tlie wharfage facilities
they now have. A few years ago the Allan Line had
almost entire control of the shipping interests of this
port, and their steamships being largely subsidized by
both the Home and the Dominion (lovernnients they
fast assumed control of tlie trade, and be(3ame a monopoly
that smaller companies were afraid to com{)ete witli. (_)wing
to tlie fostering care bestowed upon the line by the Govern-
ments and good management on the part of the Allan
brothers, their line at the present time conijn-ises one of the
finest fleets of steamsliips in the world, representing an
ocean tonnage alone of 77,400 tons, and the management
of their immense business is certainly a study wurtliy of
emulation. Everything is done almo.st by routine, ami with
])erfect regularity, cheaply, eiliciently and economically.
The company divides each branch into a department, and
each depai\.::^ent held alone responsible for its actions to
the head office. They hire their men bv the season, work
or no work the men know their pay goes on, therefore no
strikes occur at critical moments, and upo the arrival of
one of the steamers from sea she is unloaded and reloaded
with ex])ediency and dispatch. In addition to the ocean
steamers, the " Allans " have (ju'te a >< i ice of propellers
on the lakes, thereby being enabled to tran.-port grain and
other produce direct from the point of shipment to tlieii
ocean steamers, at a cost that is merely n- i inal compared
with the cost of transportation by an outside boat. Some
idea of their immense export business may be formed from
the statemeut that the Allan steamers have transported to

( I

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FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

(ii'eiit Britain durin<^ the season 1880 some 11,402 houd of
wittle, 11,480 sheep and 1,354,700 bushels or 1(J0,33H (jmir-
ters of i^rain. Bein<^ thus so firmly established, with every
facility at command, and with the underwriters discriuiinat-
ing in favor of the Allans, and against all outside lines,
it was thought for a time to be the height of folly to
attempt to obtain even a portion of the trade for a season,
much less attempt to establish a permanent line, as a candi-
date for public favor and patronage, but, through the
indomitable energy, j)erseverance, and close managinient of
Mr. Thos. Cramp (David Torrance & Co.), the Doniiniou
Line Steamships have become a regular and permanent line
of traders to this port, and aru ra})idly growing in favor with
both shippers and the public generally, and are certuiidy
well patronized. The steamers of this line divide their ser-
vice, a portion of the fleet being regularly engaged in trading
to New Orleans. During the present season the Dominion
Line have carried over 11,305 head of cattle, 21,262 sheep,
and 2,400,000 bushels grain. There is still another can-
didate for i)ermanent trade and public favor in the " Beaver
Line," who also obtiiin a fair proportion of patronage ; their
wxportations may be summed up in general as 6,457 head
of cattle, 5,588 sheep, 1,050,000 bushels grain. The Donald-
son Line, Cljde Service, the London steamships, together
with the " outside ships " are roughly estimated to have
carried 20,39G head of cattle, 33,263 sheep, gi'iiin,

making the total exportation from the Dominion for the
season of 1880, 45,560 head of cattle, 81,543 sheep
grain. Total exports from Montreal, $32,284,240.

It is certainly a fact that, unless cattle are ol)iained for
shipment other than the slow process of raising them in this
climate, there will soon be a scarcity that will make i^'.s\f

CANADA ;

felt, for in tliese latitudes they have neitlier the immense
numhcr of cuttle to draw from or the jjasturuf^'e on which
they could winter or feed. It looks stran^^e U) see that
shipments of cattle from Canada have assumed the shape
of an industry from these nmrkets where there are com-
paratividy so few to select from, when the first drive from
the State of Texas last season (and there are tiu'ee drives
each year) was 179,000 head ; but the law-makers of Kng_
land, in order to discriminate in favor of their own c(»lony,
and to protect the industries of Canada, decreed that
American cattle arriving in Great Britain must be
slau-^htered at the port of entry whilst Canadian beeves are
allowed to live until they are needed in the market, so the
wily " iviinucks" never ship any but Canadian cattle in this
wise. Wlien a season's drive of cattle start from Texas, New
Mexico, or the West, early in the spring, they graze quietly
up through the Indian nation, Missouri, Illinois and
Michigan to the borders of Manitoba and the North West
teri'itory, and are there sold in large quantities t(j the farmers
of that region ; during the summer and fall the shi])per and
speculator buy direct from the Canadian farmer and liritish
Law is satisfied, and the Englishman eats his Canadian
roast beef fnuu Texas or Montana, and rejoices in the fact
that Canada is prosj)ering and has meat to spare for the
mother country. A local paper thus chronicles the arrival of
cattle : "Some days ago a drove of 250 Texas steers passed
through Morris, Manitoba, on their way to Winnipeg. They
were so uncivilized that tliey preferred to swim the rivei
rather than cross over the long bridge at JVlorris.

NEWSPAPERS AND PUBLIC OPINION.

If the statement be true that public opinion and habits
are controlled and reflected in the papers of the day, aad

FROM THE LAKKH TO THE QULF.

or,

that ]i(!0|tl(> follow the lend of tluMr tnacliers, tlion cortuiiily
tluMv is ample room for zealoiiH missionary work in the way
of reform.

If the statement he true that puhlic opinion and hahit.s
are controlled and retle(.-ted in the papers of the day,
that the jieople follow the lead of their teachers, then cer-
tainly there is ample room for zealous missionary work in
the way of reform.

There are ahont evj\\t papers in Frencjh and English,
comprisinj,' daily and weekly, with one weekly illustrated
paper published in the city ; the Ilenilil and Gazette' are
the two I'iiif^dish morninj,' ])a])ers. The Herald is jn-ohably
the most readable both for news and as a reflector
of public opinion. The Gazette was owned by an
M.P., but, being a public man, he possibly thought it would
be looked upon by the people generally as if he were pa-
tronizing himself, whenever parliamentary or state busine.ss
was secured, so the paper is published under the auspices
of a company of which his brother is Managing Director,
although it is stated that the member is still the Editor,
and assumes naturally the inside track on Parliamentary
business. When Queen Victoria, in her memoirs, made
the remark that " it was astonishing with how little
knowledge the world was governed," she certainly meant it
to apply to the rulers and editors on this side of her domain
also. Here a mode of attack is to obtain a point on a
stranger, who, it is believed, will not resent the calumny, and
then endeavor to create a sensation by an attack throngh
the columns of his journal, and should justice be asked ])y
the injured party, he is refused, except he pay at adver-
tising rates to insert a card in his own vindication. One
would imagine that such a procedure were beneath the

1^?

CANADA ;

aspirations of a first-class journal. It was but a sliort time
ago that an enterprising editor was pilloried before the
City Council, and ollicially tlenounced to the public by one
of the Board of Aldermen (vide daily papers, September,
1880). It is somewhat amusing to note the general dis-
jtaragement, jealousy and contemj)t for each other that is
secretly manifested between the rival papers, whilst the
])r<)}trietor des]>isesto a great extent his emjdoyees, some of
the worthy owners ])aying tlieir reporters the magnificent
sum of six dollars per week ; they do not hesitate to appro-
priate the efforts t)f a man's brain, whilst they are living
comf(jrtably ott' his lapidly wasting powers. The evening
papers are generally a rehash of the publications of the
morning, and are given to their readers for one cent i)er
copy. For a cheap paper they are certainly good s}>ecimens
of their class, and, although lacking in vigor and enterprise,
will compare favorably with a one cent j)aper in the States,
or a half-]>enny daily in Great liritain. Tlieir telegrams
usually come per " Grape vine," whist their editorials and
brain work are am})ly sup])lied by the paste pot and scissors.
The French ])apers are active in their criticisms, and their
columns tilled with European news, which aids to refute
the oft-re}H'ated boast that each Fuglish-spcaking inha-
bitant has to carry ten French Canadians, if that was so,
thent!< '. help the jtoor Frenchmen, for if any Scotchman
was ever known to carry or assist his fellowman, then the fact
shouhl be given ])ublicity. It has often been the subject
of remark, that in Texas the cow l)oys are good hands at
skinning cattle ; here they go one better on scri[)tural advice>
and have served an a])i)rentif'eship, not only as fishers, but
are also skinners of their fellowmen. As a class they are
suspicious and distrustful of each other, and business trans-

i I

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF,

actions that in otlier communities would ])e looked upon as
contemptible and mean are here deemed perfectly honor-
able and correct. rossil)ly the best point to judg(i from is
the hotel, for the stranj^er who is popularly supposed to be
legitimate prey will find himself surrounded by a set of
fawning sycophants, assiduously and anxiously endeavor-
ing to extract the last cent by all manner of devices and
pretexts ; but let the stranger express his intention of resid-
ing in their city, and of pursuing his o\vn occu])atiun —
then commences a system of social ostracism, petty perse-
cution and a regular game of freeze out. The new comer
will find himself slandered by their journals, attacked by
those whom he once thought friends, and altogether made
to feel that he was only wanted whilst he could be plucked.
Owning, as the Canadians do, an excellent water highway
for the trans]tortation of all classes of merchandise and
produce from the far West clean tlirough to the ocean, it I:
astonishing that such a dog in the mangt.'r s})irit prevails,
and it is certainly sur])risiiig that ere this a General
Dalrym})le, or a General James, has not gazed upon the
country and taken notes for future reference. It is rather
noticeable that, with all the conteni])t expressed whensjieak-
ing of the Ignited States, whenever a " call " is received,
or a situation otfered, the opportunity is at once embraced,
whether l>y a minister or a humble clerk ; all seem ei|ually
eager and anxious to gi't away, and their expressions of love
for Canada do not seem to deter them or bind them here
in the least. Although the crv of Canada for the Canadians
is often echoed, still if thi' United States were to raise a
similar watchword, several of the iidiabitants of this por-
tion would Hud thcnnselves badly off.

The city of Montreal is laid out in the form of a i)aral-

^mmmmm

'it

CANADA ;

leloyiiini, and the d\v(41iii<i;s and puldic edifices suljstan-
tially Itiiilt, boinj^ for tlie most ])ai't of cut stone, ^dvinij;
tlieni a solid and lasting ajinearance. This ]>eculiarily and
stability is accounted for from the fact tliat immense ([uar-
ries of rock are opened in close proximity to the city itself;
that it is certainly cheai)er to erect a buildin;^ of stone in
]>reference to one of brick, without the consideration that
the stone house is cooler in the summertime and warmer
durin<f the winter juonths than one built of any other
material. The winters are very severe, and last usually
from the latter end of Octol^er until May, and at times out-
door labor is entirely sus])ended for days together. The
poorer classes are either gojic to the »States (tr confined in
the hos}»itals or jails, but the merchants who have maile
enough out of summer visitors, together with the upper
ten, are securely housed until next season's sun shall wake
tliem into life and energy once more.

There is one thing may be said in favor of Montreal^
and that is, provi.sions and the actual necessaries of life are
proliably cheaper here than in any other portion of the
J)ominion, but, were it not so, it would be difiicult to
nnderstand how emjtloyees existed at all, for the moiety
dolt'd out so begrudgingly by some of the emjdoyers of
labor, and the redress so obscure, even should the laborer
be desjioik'd of all, that it would Ik- one of the ])roblems of
life .solved to ascertain to what straits and i'xigencies, men
were driven. 'J'he hotels — wiih ff\\ exceptions are amongst
the most condbrtable in the l)omini(»n and endeavor to
keep })ace with the times, to attain the lead throughout the
country and be quoted and favorably com])ared with others
far distant, — the staid hotels of the city are most admirably
conducted and generally juittern after the manners of the

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF,

"Hull," whose proprietor is a whole-souled, thoroii<^h judge
of human nature, and whose nejjhew, as manager, is both an
excellent comjianion and an aceomplished caterer — knowing
Mell that the way to a man's heart is through his stomaclb
and has been actively engaged in ministering to the daily
wants of a hungry community from the mines of California
to the palace of the Montezumas.

RELIGION.

Tell me not, in inoumful numbers, ♦' life is but an empty dream ! "
For the soul is dead that fdumbers, and things are not what tliey seem
Life is real ! Life is earnest ! And the grave is not its goal ;
" Dust thou art, to dust returneet," was not spoken of the suul.

Lon^'ellow.

Montreal claims, and certainly deserves, the title of
the " City of Churches." There are more places and
forms of worship, with less real Christianity, than can
be found in any other city of its size on the American con-
tinent ; V)ut some of tlunn are really notable structures : the
French Cathedral, situated in the centre of the city, is the
most prominent; its foundation was laid in the year 1(171.
The south-west tower contains the largest bell in Anierica,
weighing 29,400 lbs. The eastern window at the high
altar is sixty-four feet in height by thirty-two in breadth
the body of the church is separated by shafts into five
compartments, and subdivided by mullions into thirty-six
divisions. The portal is fornuHl by an arcade of three arches,
on the top of which are placed statues, each arch being
nineteen feet by forty-nine in height. The building itself
will accomiuodate scmie 10,000 pt^rsons. The high altar is
])r()fusily decorated with gilt, color and stattiary. There are
some fifty-five other churches of oil denominations, of which
the Catholics own thirteen with the Cathedral : Bouse cours

CANADA

church, cliurch of the CJesn, St. Patrick's, the Bishop'.s
church, St. Jiinies, St. Anu's, St. Peter's, Notre Diune des
Auj^'es, Notre Danie de Lounles, St. Joseph, St. Vinceutcle
Paul, St. Bri<>;icle, (Jeneral llosjutal duirch, Notre Dauie
de I'itie, Hotel-Dieu churcli, anil St. Mary'.s.

The Church ol" Ku<i,lanil has ei;.,dit j)laces of worshij),
whilst the Dis.senters and Jews own the remaining thirty-
five, hut the reaching for the dollai' is prominent at each, for
wlien the stranger goes to inspect the luiilding of Notre
Dame and ascends one of the towers he is taxed the sum of
tw(!nty-five cents. So remunerative has this practice hecome
that several thousand dollars are annually derived from
tiic visits of stranger salouc The services on Sunday are
usiuilly largely attended, hut here again sjiot cash or no
religion is the cry, f<»r each seat occuj»ied the sum of five
cents is charged, and, should sonu.' piously inclined jicxjr
find their way into this editice, hoping to attain some con-
solaii(»n in tlanr poverty, they ai'e forced eith(;r to stand at
till' side of the doorways hchind the vungregation, or to
kneel on the stone tloor of the ai-lf whilst the services are
being enacle(l ; hut the faithful jiooi' are happy in their
ignorance, and submit to indignities and almost insults
without a murmur on their part. The Jesuits have also
located in considerable nund>ers in the city, and have a tine
cathedral in which to worship, but, whilst criticising the
bliml and trustfully ignorant faith of the Catholic portion
of the community, we cannot overlook the Protestants^
Taken as a class, and including all dcuounnations, they
have by far the majority !m point nf ninubers of Churches,
within whose sacred preciniv.-j the (Ireat Creat<jr is popularly
supposed to be served, and in which it is assumed he
ilelights to dwell, there being no less than forty-three

V.\

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

Edifices from which the Kefoniied Faith is proimilj^'ated.
On Sunday no si^dit is so edifying and dch;,ditl'iil as to
iit and watch the jn'ocessiun of tlie Saintly, meandering
in groups to their favorite placewhere the Go.spel is
interjireted according to the ideas most suitaltle and
acceptable to themselves, and the Almighty is cajoled
and conciliated from a depraved and artificial standpoint.
First conies paterfamilias, arrayed in his Sunday-go-to-
meeting suit of black, with solenni mien, leading by
the hand his youngest scion, then follows his wife and
daughters, enveloped in their finery, and dis[)laying
jewellery and gewgaws like South Sea Islanders, followed
by the other members of the family, — each of the crowd,
from the old man himself, carrying in their hands a brass-
bound, CO) tper- fastened, gilt-edged, morocco-backed prayer-
book or liible, with the family name and number of the
pew emblazoned in prominent gilt letters on the back,
for fear, if the books were left in the sanctuary, that
some poor thief might actually be tempted to stt^al " the
Wurd of Go<L" Then follow the group as they ostentatiously
march up the steps of a fashionable edifice, and slowly
parade down the aisle to a comfortal)le, carjieted, cushioned
and hassocked pew, for which the head of the family pays
fifty dollars per annum ; notice the self-satisfied h)ok upon
the faces of these pious ones as they criticise in an under-
tone the appearance of strangers and their neighbors gene-
rally. Should a well-dressed stranger desire to take part
in the service he is oftentimes shown to a seat, it being a
matter of policy, for strangers generally contribute hand-
sonu'ly on the passing of the plate in the middle of each
performance ; but, should an unfortuiuite or poorly dressed
wight seek admittance, they are quickly informed that there

CANADA ;

•ii

are no free seats in <///.s church, so they must hiok for con-
solation to the little "church around the corner," ^v]lere
the seats are free. Then watch the gaily attired clerk of
the works as he ascends with sanctified look and di;^uiried
tread to his perch in the pulpit, l)o\vs his pious head in
silent ]»rayer, arises and runs his jewelled fingers through
his well-oiled hicks and annfiunces, in a voice full ofalVee-
tation, " Bwetherin we will now sing to the pwaise and
glowy of (iad," the fortwy thiwd hymn coniinencing with,
"We'd jdwace our sins; " — and the way the congre-
gation respond show they are most anxious and very
willing to place their sins anywhere where thi'v will do
the most goovl, and on any one who will volunU'cr to
carry the load. Then listen to the effeminate exhortation,
and the apjieals for cash for the enlightenment of the
heathen, the continual repetition that through Kve's temp-
tation and Adam's fall, we were all justly entitled to a
share of everlasting damnation. The responses hy the
peojtleof " Have mercy upon us, miserahle sinm-rs," whilst
they are fully jiersuaded they are not half so bad as the
poor trash over the way, brings to mind Holy Willie's
prayer or the negro camp-meeting refrain :

" Tlie surpiiil lie tempted the woman,
" An' de woman she tempted de man.
" If it liad'nt a' been fur the miissy of God,
" We'd all been dead an' damn."

Such hypocrisy may be appreciated by the special god
who is thought to be served, but the Great Creator i)f the
Univer.se must view with feelings of disgust the tnock
solemnity and aflectation of a portion of the work of His
own hands.

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

CILVUITY.

0}i for the rar'it>/ of Christian charity under the sun.

If Montreal itridcs herself upon the ajjpelhition of the
"City of Churches," she certainly also is deserving' of the
distinction of bein^ the home and abode of the beg^'ars, for
where there is so much profession of religion and virtue,
there is a conseciuent abundant* of pauperistn, immorality,
vice and crime ; for a land wliere the purest morals
and strictest religion are professed is generally that which
produces vice, and i)articularly the smaller vices, in
greatest abundance. The portion of the States and the
Dominion with most religious teachers, ruled by minis-
terial Justices and clerical law makers, are those that
furnish the greater number of the nyrnpks du pacd to
the L '"'es on the continent, and even furnish a large
su])i)ly to the capital of Cuba. From the same
prolific soil s])ring most of the sharpers, quacks and cheat-
ing traders who disgrace their country's nanu\ It is but
the inexorable result of a pseudo-religion, outward obser-
vance, worship, Sabbath-keeping, and the various forms
are engrafted in t!ie mind ; anil thus, by complicating the
true duties that man owes to his fellow-num, (obscure or
take preceilence of them, the latttu' grow to be esteenu-d as
oni tf a secondary importance, and are, consecjuently,
neglected ; and in these northej-n latitudes when a man
V>ecomes poor he ra])idly descends h)wer and lower until
his manhood and self-respect are entirely obliterated and
the former man becomes on a ])lane with the brute creation.
On the streets, at the doorways of the hotels, on the corner
of the .squares, on the .steps of the various churches, and
even in the shadow of the great Cathedral, the passer-bye

CANADA ;

is iiiiiinitiiiuHl ill wliiiiiii*,' tftiics and with nutstnitclu'd hand
to (/i>'i\ for charity's sake. The iniiidun' of lucii, woiiHiii and
children who have hist every particle of virtue and self-
respect, in ))roj)ortion to the size of the city, by far exceed
the canaille of Paris or the Lazaroni of Naph^s itscll. Many
of these beings so lost to a sense of manhood and independ-
ence are stron*,' and healthy, able, if jiroperly employed, to
be producers, and assist iu benefitin«< the community by
becoming good citizens and bi;aring a propc^rtion of the
expense of government. These beings, when spoken to
regarding their state, often reply: "We, whilst at work,
receive such a j)ittauce from the hands of employers of
labor that it is imp()ssil)le to exist on the am(»unt earned,
therefore we would ratlnir follow the practice of begging
with all its abasement, and aj»peal to the cliarity of strangers
for means of existence, than work for wages u]K)n which
we could do nothingbut ([uietly starve," and there certainly
is S(»me reason attached to this assertion, for many a poor
clerk who wears outwardly a semi-iespecitable ai)pearance,
and who labors in a large establishment, lives upon but two,
and at times one meal a day, ami even by such economy
as this cannot make both ends meet at the termination of the
month. Whilst in conversation with a merchant, this topic
was alludeil to, and the proposition suggested that some
of the able-bodied laborers and starving clerks should be
encouraged to cultivate a spirit of manhood and assisted to
become independent by having some of the territory west
donated to them, and the means necessary provided and
loaned them to erect homes and dwellings for themselves,
thus enabling them to become active producers instead of idle
and comjiaratively vicious consumers, — when this merchant
rei)lied : " Oh, that is entirely against Canadian principle

FROM TIIK LAKKS TO TlIK (iULF.

( a

NVO,

luy

the

»I)ic

due

Ito

west

lud

ves,

idle

niul ])()li(\v — wo iicvor Icum ; soiuctinu's we may Imrrow,
}»iit Wf iK'Ncr loan to the iHiorcr classt's — icf (/ice — in (ddcr
to note tlu' jirevaltMu-o (»f that cliaritalilc spirit of j,'i\ iiiij. I
watilicd tilt' actions of a niiiiihcr of ucll-to-do men who
fondly dfiiide thcnischcs with that assertion, ami found
that on one Saturday, o\it of stiveutecn a|ij)lii'ations. au old
woman received uiie ct'iif, and still these jxtrsons thou^^ht
they had done their wholt duty, and on the Sunday rever-
ently " thanked the Loi'd for His ^'(»odness,"and the jiroHts
they had accumulated in their business, as they woidd that
others should do unto them ; they were iioteven as zealous as
old I'ncle Daniel Drew who ^'avehis note for a lar^e amount
to found and endow a reli,Ljious univtMsity and coUeuc, and
then considerately failed before the note came due, thereby
proving that he had no hard feedings against religion.

" Lif*' IK '< ^V.s^ (tinf (ill fliiiHjs shiHC if^

I fliotijlit 60 oHce, hilt null' I kiioic it."

lieu Jotison,

"I know my liidf's clior.k lull of hIii,
lint I've tixeil Old i'cic, iiml lic'll lei me in,
So riH% nj) cliililif", rise up in acrowil,
Ami slioiit iiikI sinj; (o dc aii^'els lonij,
An' nliout an' sin;r tor dc Ian' ot'di' Blt-Ht,
'Case hell am liot as a liorn«'t's newt."

If ever such inKnitesimal souls reach the haven of lest
and dwelling phice of pciice, it will only be by enacting
the same strategy that -ludge Waxem accoiuplished in
a])pr()aching the Pearly dates, and even after arrival they
may meet with the same reception. As it may possibly l>e
information for those who yet inhabit this mundane sjthere,
1 will ndate the ex])erience : .Judge Moses Aaron Waxem
was a learned man of great renown, anil hailed from Mexas.

' '

li<

CANADA ;

In courst! of time liis t-artlily career \v;ih done, mihI liis
bonci.s were j^'iUherifd to his fiitliers, or planted on llic
perarii', hnl his spirit went wandering tliroii;,'li the ethereal
reahns of space. Now the .Fudge was an honest man; lie
never took anytliing wliilst living that he eould not carry
away, m-ilher did he appidjtriate anything his arms cniild
iKtt reach, lie endowed a church, and freed his niggers
when h(t could hold them no longer, and, like Harriet
Heecher Stowe, got $'M){) ea(;h fnun the National Govern-
ment, and was well awiuainted with the fact, before he
de])arted, that there was a splendid climate for settling in,
also one that was reputed to be red hot and still a-heating,
— aoy esclu'wing the hitter, he attem[ited to make his way
to the golden gatt^s, but getting lost amidst the labyrinths
of turnings, and the day being very warm, the .Judge sat
down under the sliade of some beautiful trees to rest.
Whilst rel'resliing himself in this manner the air became
suddenly darkeni'd, anda shade ajijieai'ed who, from the des-
crij)lion heard of whilst in tJie tlesh, the .Judge immediately
recogui/ed as his Satanic Majcisty himself. "Halloo! " inter-
rogated His Majesty ; " what is y(jur name ? Where did you
come from, and where are you going?" "^Wdl," answered
the -ludge, " my name was Moses Aaron Waxem ; I've just
come from Mexas,and I want to get up to them ]>early gates."
"Oh; (lb 1 ! " replied His Majesty, "your name's enough.
1 have old Mose and his brother hjiig ago, and you're mv
meat, so get reatly, and come along." " Well," returned the
.Judge, " its j»retty warm travtdling just ncnv, so sit downand
make your miserable life happy until the cool of the even-
ing, and then 1 will go along; meanwhile," he added, drawing
forth a greasy pack of cards, " we will while away the time
with a game of draw j)oker." Well, they played a hmg while,

FROM TlIF, LAKKS TO Till", CTLF.

t I

lime
.'liile,

ami ITis Miijcsty lu'Cimw iiitt'ifstcd. Tirst, he het the ^'idden
bosses oil liis li(»nis, tln'ii tlic ^'oMfii riiij^'iirouinlliis tuil, tlicii
tlu! silver sillies fntiu nlV liis IkhiI's, iiiul tiiiiilly sdiiie (»!' tin;
silver eliains heldii^iii^'tdsoiiieot' his fUvorile iiiips. At last
liis Majesty was dead Inoke, the »»ld Jiidj^'e \viniiiii<; evt^ry
time. "Now," remarked he, " I will play you one more time^
and if you l)eat me, theu 1 will show you the road and put
you on the rij^'ht traek to make tht; gates." They played
another <j[ame and the Judj^e was again the winutM-, and the
devil lor once in liis life acted scjuare, and escorted the
Mexian to within a short distance of the {.jates themscdves;
then tellinj,' him he was on the ri^^ht track and could not
miss the way His Majesty (h'parted. Well, ni'U'.r a liiiie, the
Jud^'e, tiii'd and weary, arrived at the ^'ates, and took a seat
outside on a hcnch. lieini; all hy himseU', he commenced to
watch the crowds ^'oin;^' in. Old Father I'ete with his long
white heard reaching down to his knees, with his big hunch
of keyssuspcMided from his girdle, was hustling around i|uite
livcdy for a man so wcMghted with years and sorrows. I'irst

lo are vou

was tlie

one conqiany would aiiproacii,
question, "We are Catholics," replied the spokesman.
"Well, go in that side gate," wasthe cummand. " Wlioare
you ? " was the query as another hand a])j)roached. " We are
Trotestants," was the reply, "(io in the little door to t lie left,
and sit down," wasthe instruction. Then a little Itaml canu'
up, and, in answer to the interrogatory, the reply was : " We
don't helong to church, we are just ( 'hrislians and tiy to ludp
each other; that's all." With that the old man threw the
gates wide open and said, " Walk in Iwys, and just laiiilile

all over the whole iaarucd I'itv if vou want to.

a't

Lhe

crowil had all entered, it heing altout closing time, Father
Peter was about to lock the ''utes for the niuht, when he

r.\Nvi)\

espied tlic .lu(lu'<' silting' nii tlic old IkhicIi hikI \si-<t fully
j^'iiziii^' throuoli tlic |,an('ls nt' iliv^^atc. "Well," said he,
" wlicit'iid you coinc from T* "My naUK' was Mdscs Aaron
Waxmi," replied tlie dud^'i', " I eoiiie fiMin Mc\as, and 1

\va

lit louct in." " \V(dl, hold on till I look over the i

cciii'd

aid the a]Mi-;tli' ; then he coniuieneed to hunt for tlic Idea-

lity.

I'.c took ditwn cverv hook in the nthci' and sent

out

for thf old nnt's of former .'reasons. At last it ifot so late
and so dark that Pet»'r .slid. " I am sorry to tell you, dudge,
liut \(iu will ha\(' to remain outside until the morninj,^ for
I lirlicve that in order to let you in I shall have to n^irn,

a n'i

r set (if 'inxik.

Till". lilJKY NfNS .\NIl TIIKIK MI^^SloN'. Tl!!'. Y. M. ('. \.

Vhc pleecdin;.,' was written hrfore i juuU'(ltlie \. M. (.". A.,
and as that institution and also the drey Xuns aerom-

iilish a consideralile amount of ^ \ jii their .sphere, they

certainly deserve mure than a passint; ncttiee.

Tlii'ii, i-i tliiTc no li(i|K' ! (Xi'ci.t lur the .-^iiiatly ;

Is tlnTc no liflp, for tlu' wiM triiiliiiy: vine,

Mu-t iIk' iinMlifliil'.-* voice in tlie disiaiicc iljc (iiiiitly

,\iii| Miiii III Iiif* iiii.-crv fur.-i' llu' Diviiu'

The drey Ntmnery is situate(l un (ley street, o('('npyinf.j
w iiitiit' Mock Itet ween Sherlirooke ami I »or(hest('r. The
huildmu was founded in 1 <>d'J, and sueh a reputation has
it nhtaiiifil that thi>u>auds of strangers visit its wards and
chapel each yea''. The [iloddino nian of the w uld, the

husiness mai

1 and ot.heis, whosf thouohts are tied here he-

iuw , cxperi'-nce such a ri'lief on enterino its portal.> that it
isiinp«»ssii»le toantieipate or di'scrihc. Althou<;h hut throui^h
two ]»air of foldinji d(»ors, the feelin},' c(jmt"s ovrr you that
you are entirely shut out from the world, and hegiu to feel

I,! I

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

at rest and poace. The transition is sudden, but it is complete.
No longer are yon ga/ed at with sharp, designing or calcu-
lating countenances ; no longer do you renienil»er the niugh
crowiling and jostling, the c\itting remarks and treacher-
ous actions, whilst drifting outside. Here all seems perfect
quiet, and probably you feel for the first time a spirit of
charity to all men rise within you. The faces you see and
converse with are those of symj)athising woman, and recall
the (!ountenance of a loving mother or a tender sister.
The Nun"ery, nov/ under the care of Sister Keed, jmjbably
ac(!omplishes more good in a (piiet unheralded way than
any similar institution in the Dominion.

A lap for those wlio leave tlie track.
How tew ot'tlie wuiidering houIs turn back,
For eyes may weep and liearts be Hore ;
B'Jt the silver lost is found no more.

i»e-
|;it it
In ugh

that
i feel

The Y. M. C. A. have recently erected at one corner of
Victoria Square a fine building in Gothic style, with large
hall, reading room ami library for theijseof strangers, and
have doubtless been of great l)enefit to young men, stran-
gers and others, in ordi r to rc^concile them to their h and
the habits of the ])eopl(' they found themselves amongst.
The institution was c(;rtaiuly needed, and the committee
deserve great cnulit for the manner in which they have
{iccomjtlishcd the undertaking, as also does the " Witness,"
an evening paper that has proved a useful, willingand j)ow-
erful auxiliary. Tlu^ room.s are under the charge of Mr. 1).
Ibidge, the elHcient Secretary of the institution, a courteous,
aifalile gentleman, who does all in his power to enal)le a
moral young man to pass away a few spare hours pleas-
antly and agreeably.

CANADA ;

ECCENTKIC CHAHACTERS.

It is a matter of aunnise to tlu; visitor generally how
the iiuiiu' of " Mcdrah" or McXab seemed to V»o so pro-
minent and so continually (|uoted. From Halifax, Quebec;,
Montreal, Toronto and Hamilton, and ])ossil)ly still further
West, streets, l)uildin^'s, whiirves and avenues have been
named t(» do him honor, and, like the Squee/eins, tlui name
is to bo met with in all kinds of out-of-the-way placets,
and from a superficial ;j;lanc(! it looks as if he iiad certainly
"grabbed" all within reach ; but it seems he was a irdi
canny Scotch chieftain, and brought the characteristics of
his early education ov(>r with him ; there was no shoddy
about Ml Xab, for his father owned slaves (or rather a elan
of his own), ami he brought quite ii nundier of them with
him. On arrival, he rei'ei\tMl a giant of a Townshiji on
the Itiiuk of Ijitlxc lie ( haf<, and iit once jiroceeded to (irect
the castle of McNab, in older that in a new country he
could follow feudal customs ;ind the ancient traditions of
his progenitors, anil raid, pilhige and sidKlue the comrni-
nities around about, whilst, m case he was attack(!d, he
would iiiive a place to tlefeiid and sortie from. He for
some years sold otf the estate an immense ([uantity of
pine timber, an<l having cash to his credit, at once became
" tony." He visited the Provinces, iind went through put-
ting on style like a b(uidliol(l«r or a Western congressn? ml
Dressed in <"ull Highland C(»stume, had his tail or guard to
accomjiany him, with the ])iper and assistants precculing
him. giving vent to tho.se outlaudi.sh and soul-torturing
strains so much revereucetl and respected as l)agi)ipe
music amongst the n.cks of Auld Scotia. He held him-
self u little king and imported his own chattels in the

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

lloW
pro-

rtlier

iiiuue
laces,
a inly
i r<'(il
Lies of
h(»(l(ly
a clan
II with
hiji nil

o erect
try he
iuiis of
miiiu-
<(mI, he
H.. for
Itity of
liccame
;h ])ut-

In art

'(MM

1 to
liny

rturnig

l'iV[,'l>ipe

(1 hiiii-

way of lal»orers ami fine lTi<,'hlan(l yirls, meeting thom upon
their arrival at Quelu'c, l)Ut his jxiwer over the e(»iiiniunity
at large in those old and snjterstitioiis days is lastingly
marked l)y tlicir cllorts to do him honor, for at that time
style position and bluff "took the eake."

TllK DOMINION KXIIIIUTION.

As the master, so the miin,

Nmnc tne tlu' jud^cH, I'll icll you who gets the prize.

Loritl l\if)fir.

There is one noticeable peculiarity about the people (if
Canada, and that is, if the citizens of one seeti(tn of the
country promulgate an idea, it is instantly seized by the
people of the neighboring sections. As the individuals are
suspicious and jealous of each other, so each |»rnvince is
animatetl by the same desjiicahle spirit. The City of Ham-
ilton, Ontario, atniounced her intention early in the scast (i
of holding an Exhibition in the fall, and invited the co-
operation of the neighboring rrovinces, to assist in making

CANADA

tlu! sllOW 11 HUfOCSS. No SOUIHT ililli fllis JlIinOIMlCCllU'lll

iiiiiiu'.d pulilicitv, tlmii the citv of Tumnto went oiio ln'ttor.
Hiul iKivi'i'tist'd an KxpoHition (luriii<^ tlu.' nioiilh uf St'|»t('iii-
lu'.r, inviliiif^ the jii'opld lioth of Caimdii and tlu; States to
conic, see, and jiaitieijiale. Shortly afterwards Montreal
certilicd to the fact that she was j^oing to hold a (Iranil
Kxposition, "Open to tiic World," mid, finally, Halifax
awoke and opened her show to the Universe and tluMMitiic
ororory, and it is the working' of Montreal that \\v. shall
deal with mostly. In tlu; outs(!t a Conunilti'e of Ways and
Means had to bi' provided, f(jr the promoters wiire not men
wh I were inclined to risk a (!ent toward niakin<,' a snccess
ont of the experiment — Ihii p rent itje of their names was oon-
sideretl amply sullicient a portion to attract the pnhlic.
So 'he newspapermen were dnly convened, and the various
•' fat tiikes " were distributed amon<,'st them : in the way
of advertisements, etc., to insure their co-operati<jn, and
t<» assist in creatinj^ an enthusiasm amongst the peoplr
generally.

Having thns laid tlu; foundation, the papers commenced
with a will to proclaim the many advantages that would
nccrue to the city by holding an Ivvhibition within its
limits, appealing by turns to the credulity, greed and vapa-
city of its meychants ami citizens generally, i-'laming post-
ers, catalogues and pri/e lists were s..'atleretl far and

wide oV(

■r th

fhl

jirovince ami rcighboruig States. Com-

mittj-es were oigani/cd tocxlracL cash from the cili/ensand
stoic kctpers generally, and the wh<»le alVair was underway.
Till' grounds comprised sume :{:" acn'es, and already had
one buiUling on them, calietl the Crystal I'alace, which,
after being well shored and Itiaced up to juvvent its falling,
was considered gnod enough to l>e the M;i.;ti U'nldiug. The

I)lll

■lU'ctt

.ul.l
II Us
iljlil-

l( iSt -

ami
'nin-

iSillltl

way.
luid
liich,

FROM THK LAKES TO THE GULF,

pt!()i)lo themselves takiiii,' lui active interest in the proposed
show for a time, everythiii<^ seemed to portend success and
satisfaction. S. ('. Stevenson, the Secretary of the Council
of Arts and Manufactures, was appointed Secretary, and
certaiidy worked well for the advancement of the interests
of th(! Kxhihition ; hut his hands weie soon tied, and he was
siirroimded hy a ravenous host of incompetents, whose
relatives or friends had contributed som«'thin<^ towards the
furtherance of the object, and who brought such pn^ssure
to bear upon the Sei^retary that he was entirely unable to
employ competent men, for most of those who had (-ontri-
buted to help along the exptMises had done so with the
express or implit^d understanding that they wcire either
to have a place ftir themselves or their friends. The
Exhibition was advertised to lie open to the public on
the 14th of Septemlx-r, but on that day, owing to
incomjx'tency of the ollicials in charge, nothing was in
readiness even in the lirst building. Exhibitors (some of
them at least) had their spaces given -.iway to oth.or
parties, and at the last moment, when all was hurry,
bustle and confusion, chaos reigned s>ij)reme, and the
credulous })ublic who i»aid their (juarters were just so
much out. Three days afterwards the great Manitolja Kxiii-
bit was displayed, and comjnised some sage grass, a few
sheafs of wheat, gi;*en tomatoes, sickly cabbages and half-
grown beets, with the explanatory note that the vegetal>les
were plucked Iwfor*.- the} were ripe. A few Indian wap-
pings, old wigwams, snow-shoes, canoes, and a worn-out
government ammunition waggon, were the atti actions. The
cattle and stock did not leach the grounds until the 20th
in.st.. and the root ami grain building was nut open until
that time. The formal opening did not take plice until

88 CANADA ;

the 'Jl.st, whontlie flovcrnor (Joiu'iiil on'u;iat<Ml. The Judi^cs
deserve j^reut credit, imd slioidd now he quoted as exi)crts.
One, a butcher, who liad lUiver W(!t a line, was a jiid«j!c of
fishinj^ tackh;, and t-ndeavoured to jilcast; all Ity awarding a
prize to each exhibitor. A Icath m- intMchant was one of
the juil^'es of flour, and knew curn starch and jx-a niciil
were composed of tlu^ same iii«,'r(!(lients. A farmer, who
was one of the juil^'es of race horses, awarded a prize to an
animal because the owner was his neij^hbor, whilst two of
th(! jud^'t's of wine (teetotalers) were earnestly endeavovinj^
to convince tlu; balance of their numlxT that the " V(jlnay "
and Moulin a N'cnt on i-'xiiibition was a new-fan^dcd
style of whiskey, "they could tell by the smell."

Althou<,'h till! show was professedly ojien to the " vorhl "
one of the ,jud«,'es publicly expressed his determination of
not lookinj^ at American ^'oods at all, and at this remark
some of tht; (ixhibitors became so dis;^Mist(!d as to remove
their entire exhiliit, and dtM'liiied to show their i^'oods, after
all the expense they had (nitailed. S<;, taken all in all, the
great Dominion Exhibition of IHHO was far from being
the sncrcess it was anticipated it would be, and it is to he
hojted that the numaj^ers of the next will In; mtui who will
dis(M>untenance every attempt at imposition, and whose aim
will be not only to make tlu^ show a success, but to thor-
oughly satisfy and pl«Mise the people wlio are attracked
there, and who contribute to its supjiort.

VKNNOK, TIIK TUOl'lIKT.

" Vennor's kerrect ajj;in, aiul I'll tell you how'twas,"
renuirked a farmer journeying from Southampton: "Well,
you see, 1 was looking in the almanax, and he said there
was to be snow ; well, pretty soon, she just came along, full

•m^r

ilS,

full

FROM THK LAKKS TO TIIK GULF.

pelt. Yoii see tlicm drifts ? Well there is over sixteen feet
in ein, unil on u level all you can see is the tops of the stakes
and the rydcr across, that means over seven feet snow. After
that says I to the wife, ' Veiuior says that wu'rc <,'oiti^' to
have a eold spell, and I'll ht^ we ^'it it,' says I, 'and I'm
goin^' to watch out,' so I took the Ivprmoiiuiter, and s(!t her
up on the ])orch. After a while tht; cold hcLfan to comu
ah)!!",', and that durned ihinf; marked lower and lower till it
struck the last iKttch, and then hust the hottom ami fell
throu^'h (into the porch. Well, you know ('hij»p«!waSam what
works forme, — he come along in the nidrning, and thought
he found a silver or l'< 'Id button or something, and went to
pick it up otfn the j. ach, and that litth; inside of the
Kermometer burnt his two forefingers iind his thumb oil
clean t<i the first joint before he could diaj) it. (\)ld! well
I should remark ; and it ain't overly warm now." Another
gentleman wcdl ac(juainted, unil just from the West, said
that the I'rofit wuz an ould man wlm lived near Hell or
Halifax <»r (jhieiiec;, or some of them jilaces, and wuz in league
will another feller in the Kockies who had a kind uv a
way of fixing ui> tb.e weather by a kind of a prot^iieding
between tbimsilvt's; whilst anotfier argued that he must Im*
a kind of a Yankee feller, for he was mighty lucky S(nne-
times. Therefore, having my curiosity arouscid, and lieiiig in
the city in which the I'lophet now abides, 1 took an early
opjxtrtunity to look him up. I mtit him, and my whitened
beard dropjied off with ast inishinent, my pale leathery
cheek resumed its roseate hue, and thus rudely was another
dream disjielled, — for the I'rophet is as young as either you
or 1. Of course I asked him all his secrets, and how it was
thai he could forecast the changes of the weather with such
accuracy so long ahead, but, instead of receiving the reply

CANADA ;

T expcctol from siiiih a sagt^ — "Why yoii sno tlitit onrtain
coml»usiil»l(! clcnicnts having thtur consiingninity ((vcr cor-
tiiiii I'lt.'viiti.'d positions, whciiihy thf storm (ihnid, forming lui
iuiiUMdis wavi', lowiMs its impending inlhicnces over thf
sulttorriint'ous ]H>rtions oftln' viisty (h'cjt, and consoHdatiMl
viicuum is thns crciilt'd, in the iMinglomcniti'd muss of hi-tcro-
g(Mh!ons viipors, Ihiit coiistitntc ii sti^rm ciMitrti, and accumu-
late in the. suhslratum of the tjthcr that surrounds this
planet" — lie simidy and modestly said: " I do not claim
any special merit for my prognostications — they are mendy
the result of study ; and hy stt^ady appliance to the work in
Imnd, with consUint comparisons of other seasons, 1 have
been enahleil for some time alu.'ad to forecast the prol»al)i]ities
of ajjproaching seasons with a tolerahle degree of success
and ac(urac\, very satisfactory to both my friends and
myself." Mr. V(!iinor claims that he makes a jioint of the
following featur(!s, and maintains that, by j)roper ap|)li(iitiou
the changes in the wi-ather may be foretold : the dryness
or humidity of previous seasons, extremes of heat or ccdd,
general direilion of winds, time of coinnuMicement of
spring and fall, with characteristics (jf mid-summer, aspect
and intensity of first frosts, abundance or rarity (tf thunder
storms, years of unusual metet)ric displays, &c. Of course
exactly how the Prophet does it is for the curious to lind
out, hut no doubt many of our ambitious young iiu-n will
be in the tiidd, and prophesy with mon; or less (U'gree of
success, now that the riioduH ojn'raiuli has been exjilained,
but still there is room enough for all, and a little gen»!rally
mixed-up weather won't do any harm, even it it does dam-
pen the i»oliticians and ojlieials generally. The Prophet,
although a great naturalist anil ansiuthority on " Our Minis
of I'rey," or the " Eagles, Hawks and Owls of Canada,"

FKOM THE LAKKS TO THK (U LF.

•1.

ly
11-

is nut lo Ix' fooled hy tin; hiiltits of aniiiiiils or the fli<,'hts
of liiitls ; h«» considers ihaui somethiii^ like the |iroinist's of
an M r. or lu-ad of a di'jiarUufut — f^eiierully spt-akiiij,', very
uncfilain — Imt relies more especially on scientitie know-
led;,'" and liis own past experience, lie also stati's that yoiin}^
men who ure about to enter into the prophes\ in^' husintiss
slionld hear in mind that, to untU'rstand the weather, they
must he out in it and live in it : not for an hour or a week
or so hut for a nundjer of years, say twenly-tiv or fifty for
the average youn^' man, althoiigh a very amhitious youth
mi^dil experiment in the hack-yard in his shirt sleeves until
it rained, when lie would be in a position to amply verify
the fact that tlu' a(|ueous lluid was wut, und thus would
one item of knowledj^e b»^ piined — and so would a cold.

lie puliHshes an ahnanac ycsarly which is now havin<^ a
^oat run in tin; United Slates and (Janada. In it each
year he ;,mvos imjtortant hints to those who would he
weatherwise, as well as his j»ropliesies in detail for the
yeai, as with other interesting and valuable matter.

KK.SOKT.S.

Then; an; .several places of interest in the City of Mont-
real, and within a short distance of its boundaries, that are
well wdrth visiting': — The Court House, new City llall,
whur\es, and M.irche Kousecours (the old City Hall and
buildin;^ first sighted on approaching from the river),
which is the largest of the six markets that Montreal con-
tiiiiis, wh(»se total sales of farm j»roduce auKumt yearly to
^oL'o.dOO, of which amount the Marche lionscMjours sidls
.sonu' SI It'), 000, securing a revenue of $2."), 000 in rents,
against an expenditure of only $3,700. The sales of fish
at these nmrkets are estimated to amount to S^r.13,000.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

^' %?

w.-

1.0

I.I

1.25

,50

IIIM IIIIIM

"'' '" III 2.2
2.0

1.4

1.6

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c'l

5%>

^;.

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST AAAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

40^

^ /K%. <^' 5^

i/.A

M^
_<■«

CANADA ;

i;*

A sight regularly seen in summer time, and which gener-
ally impresses the visitor to the march^, is that of an old
blind man in greasy attire, feeling his oats in the shape of
extract of rye, extending his palm, and intoning in a husky
voice, *' I'm sweet little Buttercup, Dear little Buttercup,
Buy of your Buttercup, buy." In the winter seaoon all
this is changed, the habitants, stand clothed in furs,
shiveringly alongside their stalls, and, as tho purchaser
hurries along, he is accosted with avez-vous hesoin de
quelque chose. Upon the selection being pointed out from
amongst a number of frozen blocks, which, when thawed,
prove to be beef, pork or mutton, the butcher picky up his
axe, and chops off a chunk like chopping stovewood ; but
even his peaceful occupation is not unattended with danger,
for a board inghouse keeper had her eye knocked oiit by a
butter splinter, whilst the sausages she was selecting fell
down " kerchunk," stunning her so badly that it took fully
two hours and a bottle of gin for her to recover. Milk here
is sold by the yard, and the boys buy milk icicles like cent
sticks of molasses candy, whilst birds and chickens might be
used successfully as cannon balls during a winter's siege.
• The Bon Pasteur nunnery. Hotel Dieu hospital. Church
of the Gesu, are worth visiting. Mount Royal park and
cemeteries are laid out on a rock which stands alone in the
wide river plain, and is supposed to have been formed
from the deposit of an immense iceberg stranded here some
centuries ago whilst the surrounding country was over-
flowed by the sea. Foreign boulders are perched on the
top of Montreal mountain, which itself is scored with gla-
cial st't'ia. Some nf the authentic records are preserved in
the museum, and recorded in books of authority ; others
rest on personal observation, and they prove conclusively

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

that a greater part of this portion of the country was sub-
merged during a glacial period ; other records peitaiuing to
this theory have vahie when thus supported. The ceme-
teries will amply repay the time spent in visiting them'
and noting the prevailing customs for interments. The Sta-
tions of the Cross in the Catholic portion (14 in number)
comprise incidents in the Life of Christ until His cruci-
fixion. A drive around the mountain and on the Lachine
and Cote des Neiges road is most enjoyable. Tlie drive
runs directly along the banks of the river, presenting fine
scenery along the entire route, and, should the proper hour
be selected, the visitor may enjoy his opportunity of watch-
ing the descent of the steamer over the rapids.

A good way for the venturesome to obtain a view of the
descent would be to procure a skitf or canoe at the Victoria
Bridge in Montreal and pull up the river to the foot of tlie
rapids anchoring under the lee of Pelican island, will pre-
sent to the beholder a most pleasing sight and one that
will amply repay for the labor expended in the row up
stream.

Point Claire, 14 miles, and Ste. Annes, 18 miles from Mon-
treal, are two charming places of summer resort, easy of access
to and from the city. At Point Claire there are quite a
number of cottages, which are always filled at the com-
mencement of each season. Beloeil or Mont St. Hilaire is
within a couple of hours' ride from the city, and affords a
pleasant Sunday's recreation from the toil of the weeic.

A short distance above Ste. Annes the dark waters of the
Ottawa Biver join those of the St. Lawrence, and, like the
gulf stream in the Atlantic, although they run side by side,
they never mingle until over the rapids. The Ottawa
Kiver, like the St. Lawrence, has both its legends and
romances, of which I note one, from " Maple Leaves."

CANADA ;
THE GRAVE OF CADIEUX.

In ascending the Ottawa river one lias to stop at the
rock of the High Mountain situated in the middle of the
Portage of the Seven Chutes, at the foot of the Island of the
Grand Calumet — it is there lies Cadieux's tomb, surround-
ed by a wooden railing. Each time canoes pass the little
rock the old voyageur relates to his younger conii)anions
the fate of the brave interpreter. Cadieux was a roving
interpreter, brave, poetical, and of a romantic turn of mind,
and was often employed by both the government and
missionaries to interpret the various Indian dialects. He
generally spent the summer, hunting and in winter would
purchase furs for tiie traders. After a winter thus passed
by Cadieux at the portage, where he and the other families
had their wigwams, it was decided in May to wait for other
Indian tribes who had furs for sale, and then all were to
come to Montreal. Profound peace was supposed at the
time to exist in the settlements. All of a sudden, one day
a young Indian, roaming about close to the rapids, got up
quite a scare by rushing back out of breath and shouting,
Nathaoue ! Nathaou^ ! ! the Iroquois ! the Iroquois ! !
There was in reality below the rapids of the Seven Falls,
a party of Iroquois warriors who had been christianized,
and were then waiting to levy toll, and appropriate the
canoes that generally descended at that season loaded with
skins. Only one chance of escape presented itself to the
minds of the affrighted ones, and that was to attempt to
bring the canoe through the rapids, a project that had
previously been considered hopeless. It was also thought
necessary to station some parties in the woods, in order, by

FUOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

Ight

', by

firing, to draw off the attentior of the Iroquois from the
desperate attempt to run the rapids, and thus prevent pur-
suit. Cadieux, being the ablest and most resolute, chose a
young Algonquin warrior to accompany him in this peril-
ous service ; and it was agreed that when the interpreter
and his comrade should have succeeded to inveigle the
Iroquois into the woods, they would try a circuitous route
and attempt to join their friends, who also were to send
after them should they be too long absent. Cadieux and
the young warrior started for the Iroquois encampment,
agi'eeing that the sign for the canoes to break cover and
start on their fearful race would be the firing of their guns.
Soon the report of fire-arms was heard in the distance, and
was followed by three or four others in quick succession.
On went the frail birch canoes amidst the foam and rocks,
flying like sea-birds over the boiling caldron. It was
verily a race for life, the extraordinary and superhuman
skill of the Redskins alone saving them from death in
a thousand shapes. " I saw nothing during our passage
over the rapids," said Cadieux's wife, a pious woman,
" but the form of a tall lady in white, hovering over
the canoes, and showing us the way." They had invoked
St. Anne, the patron saint of the mariner. The canoes
escaped with safety, and arrived at the Lake of Two
Mountains, but it was not ascertained until some time
after, from the Iroquois themselves, what had become of
Cadieux and his devoted follower. It seems that Cadieux
had quietly watched for the Iroquois at the portage, plac-
ing himself about an acre from his colleague, to allow the
Iroquois to penetrate to the centre of the portage ; he then
quietly waited for the death-yell of one of them shot by
his helpmate, and then fired with unerring aim. The war-

^imm

CANADA ;

whoop resounded, and the Iroquois, fancying they were
attacked by a large i)arty of the enemy, separated, and
charged in different directions. It was supposed the young
Algonquin fell in attempting to join Cadieux. For three
days the aborigines searched the woods in order to find
traces of the encamjiment, never thinking the enemy had
attempted to descend the rapids ; for three days and nights
they searched for Cadieux and those were sleepless times
for the white man. Foiled in their object they returned
to their canoes. Several days then elapsed, and, as no tidings
of Cadieux came, a party was formed and sent to scour the
woods : traces of the Iroquois were unmistakable, and in-
dications of Cadieux's presence were found. At the Port-
age des Se/pt Chides they noticed a small hut of branches
which, apparently, had been abandoned ; they passed it
without search and continued their route, under the im-
pression that Cadieux might have been compelled to ascend
the Ottawa, and take refuge with the Indians of the Is-
land. Two days later, the thirteenth after the skirmish,
they noticed on repassing the hut, a small cross, at the
head of a fresh grave on the surface. In it was found the
cor])se of Cadieux, half covered with gi'een branches, his
hands, clasping a sheet of birch bark (on which he had
considerately written his own dirge), were laid over his
chest. The opinion was, on reading the inscription on the
bark, that exhaustion, hunger and anxiety, had produced
on the inter])reter a species of hallucination called " la folic
de huis." He had doubtless lived on wild fruit and berries,
not daring to light a lire, for fear of betraying his place of
concealment. He had been growing weaker daily, and, when
the I'elief party had passed the hut two days previously he
had recognized them as friends, but the sudden joy at a

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

had
;r his
in the
luced
\ folic
^rries,
Lce of
kvhen
|lyhe

at a

prospect of a speedy deliverance had been so great that it
made him speechless and inanimate. Seeing his last hope
vanish as they passed him, and feeling his strength failing,
he scribbled his adieux to the living, and then prejjared hi:s

last resting-place. This done, and the cross erected, he laid

himself down for the sleep of death. Before laying down to

rest he embodied in verse his own dirge ; this chaunt by

its simplicity is very attractive, being an expiession of hi,s

■<*i ItWfc ,

CANADA ;

feelings to the objects which surround him, and his own
regret for quitting life, closing by an invocation to the
Virgin Mary. The bark on which the death-song was
written was afterwards brought to the post of the Lake of
the Two Mountains. The voyageurs have set it to a plain-
tive melody, and it runs thus :

" Petit rocher de la Haute montagne,

Je vien8 tiiiir ici cette caiitpa^ne.
Ah 1 doux erhofl ; entendez iiiefl poupirs,

En languiepant je vais bientot niourir.

Petitf' oieeaux, vos douces harmonies,
Qiiand vouh cliantez me rattachent a la vie ;

Ah I si j'avais dee aileB comme voum, *

Je seraie heureux avant qu'il tut deux joure.

Seul en ces boie, que j'ai eu de soucies

Pendant toujouTH a nies pi chers amis ;
Je demaiidaie : Helaa t Bont-ils noyes ?

Lee Iruquoi:) lea auraient-ils tues? (finale>

Un de ces jours, que m'etant eloigne

En revtnant je vis une tumee
Je n)e f^uis dit. Ah 1 Grand Dieu, qu' est ceci

Lee Iroquois ni'ont-ils priH mon logis.

Je me ^uin mie en pere a I'emliasf^ade

Afln de voir se c'^tait t mbuscade
Alors je vis Irois visages rfati9ai8

M'ont mis le coeur d'une trop grando joie.

Mef; genoux plient, ma faible voix s'arrete
Je tonibe .... Helas ! a partir ils s'appretent.

Je reste seul . . . . Pas un qui me console
Quand la mort vient par un si grande desole.

Un loup liurlant vientpres de ma cabane

Vour si mon feu n'avait plus de boucane,
Je lui ai dit : Retire — toid'ici,
' ' ' Car, par ma foi, je percerai ton habit.

I<i<

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 99

Un noir oorbcau volant A 14 aventure

Vient 86 percher tout pr^a de ma toiture
Je lui ai dit : mangeiir de chair humaine

Va-t'en chercber autre viaode que niienne ;

Va-t'en 14 bas, dans ce8 boiset marais,

Tu trouveraH plusiers corps Iroquois : .

Tu trouveras des chairs, aussi des os ;
Va-t'en plus loin, laiese moi en repos. '

Rossignolet, va dire 4 ma maitresse !

A mes enfants qu'un adieu je leur laisae ;

Que j'ai garde mon amour et ma foi

Et desonnais faut renoncer 4 moi.

C'est done ici que le monde m' abandonne,
Mais j'ai secours en vous, Sauveur des hommes I

Tres-Sainte Vierge, ah ! m' abandonnez pas,
Permettez-moi de mourir entre vos bras t

CALEDONU SPRINGS.

Still further up the Ottawa River to I'Orignal, thence
eight miles by waggon-road, and we arrive at the far-famed
Caledonia Springs, noted from the earliest settlement of
the country. It was these Springs, formerly called " New-
henee," that were spoken of by the untutored Gasp^ Indians
in terms of adoration and reverence to Jacques Cartier,
upon his arrival at their camp, as the " life waters ; " and still
further upon the Captain General's arrival at Quebec, the
chief Donacona urged him forward to the Springs, whilst,
in the midst of winter, his crew and comrades were
suffering death and were the victims of disease, ice-locked
on board their ships in the St. Croix River. It was amid
the forests of this country that the Indian tribes placed
their dead, and the young warriors brought the ailing and
decrepid of their nation to partake of the heahng waters ,

CANADiANA )

100

CANADA ;

and once more obtain the strength that was supposed to be
gone for ever. It is to these same life-giving waters that
many of the robust men of our present time owe the exube-
rance of their feelings and their strength. Once a trackless
wild and hard of access, now a most popular place of resort.
A magnificent hotel is erected near their site ; a village
occupies the grounds that w* re formerly a forest entangled
by undergrowth ; beautiful cottages now adorn the swards
that were once encumbered by wigwams and sciuutters'
tents, until, to-day, that which was a wilderness now blos-
soms as the rose, and what was once a barren waste is now
almost a second Eden. There are three springs in the
village, and all are the jiroperty of the proprietors of the
hotel, who, to benefit the entire community, have spared
no expense to form a comfortable residence for all who
may seek its waters, either in pursuit of health or merely
for a summer's recreation. The Carbonated or Gas Spring
discharges some four gallons per minute ; this sjtring is
far more effectual in its results than the waters of Europe —
the gas evolved being carburetted hydrogen, three hun-
dred cubic inches perminute, pleasantly saline to the taste,
and its reaction distinctly alkaline. "^

The Saline Spring, which is distant from the Gas Spring
about 130 feet, is the one most generally sought for. It
was this spring that, during the terrible epidemic of the
year 1836-7, was accredited with restoring to normal
health the afflicted suflerers, both white and red, that camped
about its waters. Its characteristics are slightly saline,
evolving a small quantity of carburetted hydrogen, whilst
its reaction is more strongly alkaline than the Gas Spring.

The White Sulphur Sjring arises but a few feet from
the Saline, discharges about four gallons per minute, is

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

101

•ing.
Vom
is

feobly sulphurops in both taste nnd odor. The efficacy of
this spring in rheumatic and other affections is well
attested, and the cures in proportion rival by far those of the
famous German waters or the Hot Springs of Arkansas. The
aralysis comprising scientific figures, with which I will not
bother the reader, therefore he cannot doubt their accuracy,
comi)rise chloride of sodium, potassium, bromide of sodium,
carbonate of lime, soda, magnesia, iron, iodide of sodium,
sulphate of soda, potash, alumina, silica and carbonic
acid. No well regulated visitor passing through this
section of the country should fail to visit these Springs,
and to carry away with him a proportion of that robust
health that is here generally lying around loose, awaiting
applicants from the busy, bustling world without. These
Springs maintain the same flow and temperature at all sea-
sons of the year, and the slightest change in their com-
ponent parts has not been discovered since the Springs
passed into the hands of the white settlers, but the season
is short, extending but from the 1st June to Ist October.

LEGENDS OF THE OTTAWA.

The rapmories of the trip either up or down the Ottawa
river is fraught with pleasing reminiscences : hardly a hill
or headland that comes in sight but at one time was the
scene of some of those fierce conflicts that were continually
occurring between the Indians and the early French set-
tlers. These legends, whether of victory or defeat, are
invariably celebrated in song or verse. The attack on Daulac
and his sixteen followers, by the Indians, in May, 1660,
is made the subject of a delightful poem by Geo. Murray,
which is well worth obtaining, and is of considerable
length, although interesting throughout. A portion of the

---U..^

102

CANADA. ;

legend a^ rendered by Geo. Martin appears in " The TTeroes
of Ville Marie." The Indians had boasted that they would
wipe the French from the face of the earth, and carry the
the white girls to their villages. Adam Daulac, or Dollard,
Sieiir des Ormeaux, was a young man, twenty-two years
of age, fiery and impetuous, who had arrived in the colony
some three years ])revious. Without encjuiring to find out
wliere the grievance of the Indians was located, he col-
lected sixteen followers, whom he bound by an rath to
helj) exterminate the Indians. They ])le(iged themselves to
neither give nor asiv ([uarter; they then made their wills,
confessed, and received the Sacraments, and started on their
murderous errand, and erected a fort or stockade some
fifty miles up the Ottawa river. The Indians had heard of
their arrival and their determination, so they assembled
in council, and decided that the invaders sliould perisji.
Their decision and subsequent attack on the French is thus
described: ,i ' ;

THE HEROES OF VILLE MARIE, MAY, IGOO.

Tlio doom is pmclaiineil I 'twas the Sachems that spoke,

Aiul, risinj:, tlie calumet fierce!)' they Iroke;

The war-(hince is danced, and the war-song is sung.

And the warriors, full painted, tlieir weapons have slung.

Each arnjed with his arquebuse, hatchet and knife,
How they hunjier and thirst for the harharous strife I
Tliey have said it : IVie Frenchman shall sleep with the slain,
Maid, matron and babe — not a soul shall remain !

They have spoken, those braves of the Iroquois league,
Renow\ied for fierce courage and shrewdest intrigue.
Through the " Ottawa's " forest like panthers they tread,
As if stepping already o'er the palevisaged dead.

Adam Dollard, defender of fair Ville Marie,
Has pondered and prayed o'er the savage decree,

,>»•?=

f '•

!<H

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

And a desperate purpose is stamped on his brow,
And no one can slacken bis ultimate vow.

105

There are some-Oh how few ! — in the bloom of their years,
Who have listened and pledged him and trampled their fears ;
WitI) hot hearts us brave as their sabres are kefn,

Tliey are mustered around him-his gallant sixteen I |

• • • • •

In a ready Redoubt, as by Providence meant,

They hastily faHhion their evergreen tent.

And here, in the forest, where " Uttawa's " flows,

They prepare i«r the speedy descent of theii foes.

• • • • •

Hark I near, and still nearer, yell answers to yell.
All the forest is peopled with spectres of hell I
Not a tree but now looks as if changed to a fiend,
Nui a rock but behind it a demon is screened.

From the l>jop-holed Redoubt their first volley they pour.
And Mohawks and Senecas sink in their gore ;
From musket and huge musketoon they have seen,
And heard— tiiat our heroes count just seventeen.

Then dire is the rage of the shame-smitten crew,
When they find that the Pale-faces number so few ;
Again and again comes the stormy attack.
And still, like pierced griflins, the pagans fall back.

Day and night, night and day, till the tenth set of the sun,
No trophy the maddened asnailants have won,
Though their fleet-footed runners have hurried from far,
Ealf a thousand tried allieH— their whirlwinds of war.

Onondagas, Cayugas, Oneidas, are there.

Some howling for vengeance, some wild with despair j

Once again, with a hurricane rush and a shout.

Like a deluge of lightning, they storm the Redoubt.

• • • « •

In a moment, 'tis over ! flas^h blending with flash.

As sword-blades and tomahawks bloodily clash ;

" Hve le Canada," DoUard exultingly cried, i,

Then, witli cross to hie lips, like a oiartyr he died. I

-pp^

103 CANADA;

And his faithful companions, hiw chivalrous hiand,
With their gallant young captain, passed out of the laud.
Draw a veil, pallid muse, o'er the finishing scene,
And crown witli fresh garlands the brave seventeen.

♦ » • '■#■#'

Several p »erns commemorative of stirring scenes on the
Ottawa and its banks are published by John Dougall &
Sons, Montreal.

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

107

>, :

Returning once more, we again call at Pointe Claire, 8o
charmingly situated, and seemingly so quiet and peaceful,
just the place for the lovers of aquatic sport and quiet
contemplation and retirement — and visit its Beaconsfield
vineyards, where the grape is claimed to be most success-
fully cultivated, and, from specimens seen and tested at the
vineyards of Messrs. Gallagher & Gauthier, it is our belief
that the Province of Quebec will in time become able to
raise enough grapes for its home consumption, and being
the coming industry of the province will no doubt in the
near future be able to supply the wants of the Dominion.

Once more' 'running the Lachine rapids, we again
arrive at Montreal, and in the evening take the boat
for Quebec — distance by river some 180 miles. The
steamer " Quebec,'' under the command of Capt. Robt.
Nelson, is certainly, so far as the captain can con-
trol matters, a very pleasant boat to travel on, but no doubt
the company will find it to their advantage to have an
equally courteous corps of officers, so that summer travellers)
when detailing their reminiscences, will remember not
only the afl'able, jolly and obliging captain and gcMitlemanly
officers, but the courteous clerk, who wields such a ])ower
for weal or woe whilst the traveller is on his boat.

The steamer makes stoppages atSorel and again at Three
Uivers, on^ of the oldest settled towns in Canada, having
been founded in the year 1G18, and was formerly the seat
of government of the French Governor. From Trois
Rivieres to Quebec, the scenery from the river is beautiful
and gi'and ; the eye never becomes weary of gazing on the
ever-changing and varied aspects of the banks St. Lawrence.
The hills and hillocks, many of them replete with historical
interest, the cosy little French towns and their clean white

108

CANADA ;

cottages along*the banks, are tastefully laid out and admir-
ably situated, and during the summer seem to nestle in a
forest of verdure ; but once ashore, and the d m is soon
dispelled, for, with the exception of a narrow strip of bottom
land along the St. Lawrence, we find the country at the
back of the hills barren, generally unproductive, and unfit
either for agriculture or mining purposes — like the Dead
Sea fruit, yileasantto the eye, but ashes in the grasp. Soon
we pass Cap Rouge, and shortly come in sight of the
citadel-crowned Cape Diamond, and a few moments later
we are landed in the quaint old city of Quebec.

On arrival at the ancient city the stranger somehow feels
that he is on historical ground and amid old associations. It
was here the adventurous Jacques Cartier, after planting a
cross at Gasp(5 and ascending the St. Lawrence, passing in
safety the gloomy gorge of the Saguenay, that he wintered
during the winter of 1535-6, in the river St. Charles, by
him called St. Croix. The panorama that greeted the bold
navigator on his first appearance at the foot of Cape
Diamond is thus described : " A mighty promontory, rugged
and bare, thrust its scarped front into the surging current
Here, clothed in the majesty of solitude, breathing the
stern poetry of the wilderness, arose the clitfs now rich with
heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast
defiance at his foes, where Wolfe, Montcalm and Mont-
gomery fell, — as yet all was a nameless barbarism, and a
cluster of wigwams held the site of the rock-built city of
Quebec. Its name was Stadacona, and it owned the sway
of the Royal Donacona. But Cartier and his adventurers
were soon beseiged by the rigors of a Canadian winter,
the rocks, the shores, the pine trees, the solid floor of the
river, all alike were blanketed in snow ; the drifts rose far

^K"

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

Ill

above the sides of their ships, and a frosty armor four
inches thick encased the bulwarks, and, to make mutters
worse, the scurvy broke out amongst the crew, and numbers
of them died, leaving but a few in health. At last the
terrible winter broke up, and Cartier and his comrades,
having had enough of Canada for one season, and feeling
considerably homesick, took the first opportunity to return,
in order to give the other boys a chance to explore, so, after
setting his men to gather a number of crystals, which he
fondly imagined were diamonds, and also collecting a
quantity of glittering mica, that he thought gold, he stole
or kidnapped the two Indian chieis, Tuigaragny and
Donacona, with their effects, to exhibit on his arrival as
specimens of the natural productions of " New France," as
Canada was then called, planted the emblem of Christianity,
and sailed away, arriving under the walls of St. Malo, 16th
July, 1536. Regarding Donacona and his Tribesmen so
basely kidnapped by Cartier, excellent care had been takes
of their souls, as also of their furs and other trappings,
which were taken for their passage across. In due time
they had both been baptised, and soon reaj^ed the benefit
of the rite, since they both died within a year or two, tc
the great detriment of the next expedition.

The next explorer, in the person of Jean Francois de la
Roque, Sieur de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy, came in
state with the following honors attached (on ])archment) :
Lord of Norembega, Viceroy and Lieut. General in Canada,
Hochelaga, Saguenay, Newfoundland, Belle Isle, Carpunt,
Labrador, the Great Bay, and Baccalaos. He also got a good
cash grant from the French Treasnry,with whioh lie e<|uipped
five vessels, and to Cartier was given the post of (Captain
General, and a divy of the spoils. On again arriving at

112

CANADA ;

l>H

Quebec the savages anxiously enquired for their ki(hiiii>ped
chiefs, then the nohleuiau, like Jenuniah of old, was
diploiiiiitie, and lied like a troojier, telling the savugcs that,
although Donacona was dead, the others had-niunied in
France, and were living in state like great lords. This
season, like the first, was a hard one on these jiioneers.
In the year 1542 Roberval, with three shii)s and two
hundred colonists, made the first attempt at set;leiuent
on the heights of Cap Jiouge ; here all tiie colonists were
housed under one roof, like one of the experinuaital com-
munities of recent days, ollicersj soldiers, nobles, art sans,
laborers and convicts, with the women and children with
whom liiy the future of New Frauee. This Hrst
attempt at a settlement soon proved a failure, and the
Canadian annals from 1542 to 1G()8 offer a perfect blank, no
Europeans having remained behind. On the ord of duly,
1608, a group of French artilicers, 28 in number, under the
wnimand of Captain Samuel de Champlain, were engaged
(on the site where 82 years afterwards, in 1690, was built,
to conmiemorate a French victory, the church of Notre Dame
de la Victoire) in the construction of an "habitation," and
thus laid the foundation of the future " city of Quebec."
They next proceeded to clear lands for gardens, and, although
suffering terrible hardships during their first winters, soon
obtained a substantial foothold. In the following spring
the colony was augmented by Marias and I'ontgrave with
a number of new settlers. In 1615 the Recollet Fathers,
members of the order of St. Francis, arrived at Quebec. In
1616 the peltry trade with the savages had assumed con-
siderable projtortions, and the gains from that trade served
to erect substantial dwellings and churches. The colony
thus founded continued to flourish until the year 1689, when

)C'C.

.ugh
soou
pring
with
[hers,
In
Icon-
Irved
[lony
'hen

MONTMORENCI IN WINTER.

i .1

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

115

a Frenchman named DeCallier originated a daring plan, in
which he proposed that France shouUl make herself mistress
of New Y ork and Virginia by purchase, treaty or force,
offering to conduct, in order to effect the desired resjilt,
thirteen hundred soldiers and three hundred Canadians to
Fort Orange on the Hudson and Manhattan (New York),
in order to capture those posts by sudden assault. The
conquest, he argued, would nuike the King of France master
of one of the finest seaports in America, open at all seasons
to navigation of all kinds, and of a region possessing a fine
climate and fertile lands, which the English themselves
had conquered from the "Dutch." The French King and his
ministers approved of the plans submitted, and the breaking
out of the war between France and England shortly after-
wards prepared for the city of Champlaiu the thrilling
scenes which were afterwards enacted in Quebec upon the
return of Count de Frontenac in 1G89. The year following
a Quebecer named de Tortneuf started with 50 French
Canadians and GO Indians to attack and capture the stations
on the Bay of Casco, near where Portland, Elaine, now stands,
which stations surrendered after a slight resistance. The
scenes of blood, midnight pillage and destruction by the
]\Iontreal band at Schenectady and by the Three Rivers
band at Salmon Falls, with the barbarism and atrocities com-
mitted by the Quebec band and their Indian allies, have
already passed into history, and led to a terrible retaliation
by the English, who, after a series of disastrous defeats
and few victories, succeeded in capturing the City of Que-
bec after the decisive battle on the Plains of Abraham on
the 1 Hth September, 1759, a victory which cost the livps of
the victorious Wolfe and the gallant, brave but vanquished
Marquis de Montcalm, thus bringing the city under Eng-

116

CANADA ;

lish rule. For a wliile afterwaids the bitteriKiSS of feeling
between the Freiieh and English Hpeakiiig coniinimities
entirely placed a harrier to the progress of the city, hut as
the younger gcnierations grew uj), and a new jMjpulation
poured in, new suburbs were added, and now the city com-
pi'ises Quebec within, Quebec withotit, f.owcr Town, St.
liochs and St. Sauveur, and numbers about 40,()0() jteople,
Quebec within being entirely wal)"d in — a city within a
fortress. The ])ublic buildings are numerous and substan-
tial, and along the St. Louis, St Johns and Montmorenci
roads are many residences and mansions that will contrast
favorably with those on the outskirts of London itself. The
citizens generally are sociable and denu)eratic in their
tendencies, and are certainly, taken as a body, the most
conscientious of any in the Dominion ; they have several
institutions of benefit to the community, such as the
Museums, Historical Society, Hos[)ital, also a Y. M. C. A.
Eooms and various Catholic religious institutions. The
shipping business is but of short duration, the season last-
ing but from May until the middle of November, and con-
sists almost exclusively of the export of timber and logs,
in which an immense trade is transacted every season. The
monetary value of the exports of lumber from Quebec alone
during the season of 1880 amounted to $900,000. Churches,
both Catholic and Protestant, are very numerous in the city
and suburbs, and to judge from appearances the people are
very religious, for from five o'clock a. m. about every fifteen
minutes during the day the incessant ringing, clanging and
tolbng of bells is enough to drive the stranger to distrac-
tion. It left the impression that the people are very remiss
in their religious duties, or else very deaf and forgetful, to
be constantly in need of such reminders. It was my privi-

FROM THE LAKES TO THE C.VLF.

117

logs,
The

one

chos,

city

are
teen

and
trac-
miss

1, to
Privi-

lege, whilst in this city, to see a party jdantcd in style
under the auspices and according' to the rules of the En<i[lish
Cathedral. In the State in which I was raised the planting
ifc' done mighty cju et like, but here it was a difTcMent thing
entirely. A stirvevor, a (Soverntnent official had recently
handed in his chec' s away up in the woods .somewhere, and
when his relatives got hold of his carcass they resolved to
give him a i.-ood send-off, so they published the fact of his
demise, and it was soon rumored around that he was
a Government official and very rich, so the citizens turned out
in force as if for a gala day : women and children in their
best, lined the streets, and stood and clambered around the
palings of the Cathedral, and occasionally a young Miss
would murmur, " Ma, just isn't it lovely ? " and Ma would
respond, •' Per^'ectly elegant, dear ; and such fine woath;r
too." About the time the crowds were thickest around the
church the strains of music were heard in the distance, and
soon a band at the head of the procession appeared lending
quite a charm to the proceedings, and putting the spectators
in excellent good humor. The procession consisted of quite
a number of men in their Sunday black with stove-pipe hats,
and sashes of various colors either hung over their shoulders
or tied around their waists, beating anything seen lately
3ven in electioneering for Governor ; then the wagon con-
taining the departed, and f(jllowing came hacks, traps and
drays, in fact it was quite a wholesale turn out. As they
approached the gates the band ceased, and the crowds made
way right and left for the candidate ; then six of the boys,
with new gloves and long sashes, unlocked the door and
hauled the lately translated out feet foremost, and as they
went up the steps were met by the two clerks in white
gowns with black hoods, and those two were in such a

:^3:

118

CANADA ;

■nirry to earn their ten sj)ot apiece that they commenced
to read the documents before the man's feet were on a level
with the doorway. As soon as they ended the procession
foinied again,the band struck up a lively tune, and hurried
him up to the boneyard and planted him in style. It was
the generally expressed opinion of the crowd that it was
the best and most stylish send-off they had seen in six
months, and, as a gentleman remarked, " When Quebec
takes a notion to do a thing up handsome she can you may
rely," and each of the throng wished he was a Government
official and rich, so that some time he might give his friends
such a treat. We also availed ourselves of the opportunity
to witness the celebration at the Hotel Dieu on the first
Friday in October, the anniversary of " Le Crucifix outrage,"
occasion for which impressive ceremonies was brought
about as follows. The inscription of the day was the
cabalistic letters " I. N. R. T." — /esus Nazerene Rex Judea-
rorem. In the year 1742 one of the soldiers belonging to
the garrison at the citadel, in order to acquire either fame or
cash, or perhaps both, played off as a sorcerer, and of course
was looked upon with superstitious awe by his comrades
and the natives generally. Finding that he liad got a fair
start, he obtained a good-sized crucifix, and covered the
cross and figure with tar and feathers, coal oil or some
other inflammable material, placed it in a conspicuous posi-
tion in the market place and set it on fire, pretending,
whilst reading passages of Scripture and incantations, to be
working his diabolical arts. The mob started with horror
at his audacity, and the priests cried sacrilege, so of course
the soldier was promptly arrested, tried, convicted and sen-
tenced to make public reparation, and afterwards to serve
three years in the galleys for his short-lived notoriety. So

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

119

he was led by the public executioner with a cord around his
neck, bare-headed and bare-footed, wearing only a long
shirt, and having a placard on his breast and back on which
was inscribed the legend, " Desecrator of Holy tilings,"
ProfanateuT des cJioses Saintes ; he was then marched in
front of the parish church in Montreal, and being thrown
upon his knees he made the amende lionorahle to God, to
the King and to justice for profaning the image of Jesus
Christ ; he was then taken to each cross-road and there
publicly scourged, after which castigation he was placed in
prison, and finally sent to France to work out his sentence,
all of whicli punishment he calculated and endured, pre-
feiTing the galleys of " La Belle " France to a residence in
Quebec. In consequence of the act of this soldier, the
Pope ordered that public veneration of the relic should
occur on the first Friday in each October, so that if that old
vagabond of a soldier Imppens to be drifting around in the
spirit, and enters the Hotel Dieu during these ceremonies,
he will thank his lucky stars that he is not again in the
flesh on such occasions.

In Quebec riches and poverty, virtue and vice, are
strangely commingled within its narrow limits. Wealth
that has been hoarded for generations is lavishly dis-
played and selfishly enjoyed by the residents of the
roads without the old city, whilst within sight and
almost within hearing in the suburb of St. Sauveur the
poverty is abject ; and to such a state of degradation have
some of the denizens descended, through the workings of
inequitable laws and impositions for over a century, that
no vice has become too vicious for them to practice. Many
of the inhabitants of this locality are in such a state of
destitution that they are unable to appear in the streets

"T^^S^^^^

120

CANADA ;

in daylight, owing to the miserable state of the so-named
garments they wrap closely around their emaciated forms.
Such things are not only tolerated, but considered only
natural, by the aristocratic members of the F. F. Q.'s. St.
Sauveur is not in a heathen land, but a suburb of a wealthy
city in the enlightened nineteenth century, and in a
Christian country. Where are the philanthroj;ists and
self-sacrificing missionaries ? Here certainly is a fruitful
field for them to labor in for the sake of the Master ; but
no matter, these poor ignorant trash are " white " and sinful.
Opposite to the city of Quebec is Point Levis, a town
of some 10,000inhabitants, and terminus of the Grand
Trunk Eailroad. It is here the emigrants are landed on
arrival in the Dominion, and from this point the cattle are
shipped on the outward-bound steamers. The point was
named after a French Jew, Henri De Levis, Due de Venta-
dour, who claimed to be a lineal descendant of the Israelite
Jacob (who beat his brother on the blessing and pottage
question), and who was just as ready to swindle his
brethren as that hoary-headed old Patriarch. The historian
informs us that in a chapel belonging to the family a
painting was exposed representing the Holy Virgin and a
member of the Levi family, with his hat in his hand. Two
inscriptions explained the scene. " Couvrez vous, ma cou-
sine," said the Virgin. " C'est mon plaisir, ma cousine,"
replied the descendant of Levi. Like the Jews of old and the
present, the Levis seemed to have grabbed for all within
reach, and at one time owned the most considerable portion
of the entire town.

EMIGRANTS.
I've lefl BaHamonah a long way behind me,
To better my fortune I've crossed the big sea;
But I am sadly alone, not a creature to mind me ;
Ocbone, I'm as wretche as dwretched can be.

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

121

On arrival of the vessels containing those who, to bet'er
their fortunes in a new country, have cast adrift all old
associations, and trust to being received kindly by the
stranger, who held out such inducement as to cause them
to break wy their little homes and trust entirely to the
guidance .snd leadership of those authorities who induced
them to try their fortune in Canada, the ships are boarded
by the paid agents of the Governments of Quebec, Ontario,
and those of the Dominion to meet the new comer, and
each advise the bewildered emigrant of the multitudinous
advantages to be derived from a settlement in the section
he represents ; they load the family with printed matter,
books, maps, &c., and all of which, with the easy facilities
(amply demonstrated) shown of amassing wealth, the
emigrant believes to be true. These paid agents generally
are men who, having failed in everything else, are thus
provided for, either from political motives or because
service must be rewarded. Fluent and glib-tongued, they
discant much on a few and exceptional persons, who, under
exce])tional circumstances, have attained to success or what
they call success, but they omit to state that this " success "
has been slowly and painfully struggled to at the sacrifice
of nearly all which makes life desirable. They ignore the
hundreds and thousands who, after years of toil, privation,
and penury, have succumbed under the burden of disap-
pointment and wretchedness, or have wandered in droves
to the States. They profess to describe Backwoods life —
many of them never having been resident anywhere save
in a town — but they do not tell their dupes of mosquitoes,
blackflies, and other nearly intolerable insect scourges, or of
bad roads, or the total absence of roads and stores, or of
deep snow and deeper drifts, of " blizzards " from Novem-

122

CANADA

ber until April, or of the solitude and monotony of the
backwoodsman's life, or of the tremendf)us toil connected
with the clearing of forest land, which toil is severer
probably, than any other work in the world, or of the mort-
ga<,'ing of the little farm that took the entire summer to
accjuire, in order to obtain existence during the long M-inter.
They fill their hearers' imagination with the notion, so capti-
vating to Englishmen, that of abundant game, ignoring the
fact that nothing strikes the newcomer more tliun the utter
solitude and silence of the woods, and the miles and miles
one may go without seeing a living animal save a chit-
mouse or squirrel. They tell of one and a ([uarter dollars
but omit to mention high rents, scarce and dear fuel, dear
clothing, and long interrujition of work in the winter.
They descant and speak of demand for labor in the rural
districts, but keep in the background the fact that such
limited and temporary demand as exists is caused by a
continuous yearly exodus of migration of farmers' sons
and laborers (amounting, during the month of September
alone, 1880, to 135,000), wearied out with long hours
and the trying and onerous conditions of farm work in
Canada. They are silent about the sweltering summer
heat, over 100 degrees in the shade, under which a
man wants half a bucket of water a day, and is still
a prey to thirst. They dabble in mean temperatures to
induce people to believe that the climatic conditions in
England and Canada are not strikingly diverse, although
they know that a Canadian winter is severe and protracted
beyond an Englishman's conception until he experiences
it ; and that frost bites, involving the amputation of limbs,
and freezings to death, are as common as chimneys on fire,
and excite as little public interest. They tell of abundant

1 still
to

Is in

Icted

Bices

liibs,

fire,

lant

, mm '" '

■ i

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

125

work on railroads through back districts, but do not explain
that it is work only for a time, work, too, entirely different
from that in a settled country, and those who perform it
have to live in extemporized wooden or log " shanties,' '
in hordes of sixty or one hundred, fed and lodged like swine,
and comprising the roughest class from all nations. The
many ways in which the new-comer is fleeced, and the
apathy with which the railroads and other companies look
on and see it done, with the knowledge that their employees
throw every obstacle in the way of the stranger, in order
to prevent him from obtaining redress, where wrong has
been inflicted, has yet to be exposed ; but, should you men-
tion these impositions in order to make them public, and
thus to prevent them in future, you are immediately
assailed by the press for '• libelling the country " out of
deliberate malice, and thus endeavor to hold you up to
public odium.

Notwithstanding what has been written, the climate of
Canada, with all its winter hardships, is a remarkably
healthy one, whilst to the tiller of the soil, good arable lands
are to be obtained in any of the provinces East in small
farms, but from Ontario West, in acres broad enough to suit
the longest purse, whilst timber lands can be purchased by
the mile instead of by the acre.

ST. LAWRENCE LEGENDS.

Below Cape Desespoir is a treacherous ledge called Red
Island Reef, formerly an object of dread to all inbound
vessels. One of the first who suffered from its presence
was Emery de Caen, who in 1629 got his vessel aground
on the reef whilst attempting to weather Pointe aux Allou-
ettes. A singular disaster and shipwreck occurred in Sep-

L*;-^

■

126

CANADA ;

tember, 1846, that of the brigantine "Gaspe Packet?'
The vessel was owned and commanded })y a Capt. Bru-
lotte, an eccentric old sea dog, who for forty years had
scanned every creek and shore from Gaspe to Quebec.
He was a good seaman and a careful navigator, and was
also master of a perverse habit of swearing at his crew on
any and every occasion ; it was stated that when anything
" riled the old man " he would stand on the quarter deck
and "cuss" a blue streak, until the peak and throat hal-
yards both gave way, and sometimes he would storm and

QASPK PaCKKT.

rave so much as to loosen the main backstay, and for hours
afterwards the smell of brimstone could be plainly dis-
cerned by those whose duty called them aft. The Captain
himself w^as an enthusiast, he believed in the principles of
Neil Do\v, and enforced them most rigorously amongst his
crew. It was an affecting sight, and one to be remem-
bered, to see this old pirate, on a winter's night, when the
rigging was stiff with ice, with beaming countenance, clad
in his overcoats and oilskins, with two or three second
mates nips of real old stingo underneath his vest, stationed

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

127

hours
dis-
[ptain
ies of
it his
liiem-
the
clad
scond
ioned

by the galley door, with a kettle of hot tea, dishing it out
by the dipperful to poor shivering Jack as he came do\vn
from aloft, almost benumbed from shortening sail on a win-
ter's night, and who would tremblingly remark that it was

a d d poor apology for seven water grog ; and, after

ministering to the wants of his sailors, the good-natured
captain would return to his cabin, take a " nightcap," and
then " turn in." As a consequence of the enforcement of
cold water principles amongst his crew, and of destroying
the grog himself, he was continually changing his men, and
those who were continuaUy fed upon such diet had neither
nerve nor courage, but were composed chiefly of the most
ignorant and superstitious class. So one day he shipped
a fresh crew of bands, and left Perc<5 with a full cargo. A
brisk easterly wind, gradually freshening into a gale, made
the old brigantine bowl the knots off lively. It was the 2Uth
of September, and the equinox was not far oft', fur the wind
continued to increase. The mate on passing VnYoi liock had
noticed the wild fowl clustering and screaming as the old
brigantine scudded by, and he observed to the ciiptaiii
that it was a sure pressage of the coming storm. The gale
increasing, it soon became necessary to shorten sail ; the
mainsail and foretopsail were double' reefed accordingly,
and things were made as snug as possible. The night was
dark, but it being a following wind, it was merely neces-
sary to head the vessel for Quebec, and it was calculated
forty-eight hours more would see her at her berth. A drizz-
ly rain soon set in, and unmistakable signs of the coming
storm were observed ; drifting clouds and the piercing cry
of the petrel bade the old mariner beware — it was the
equinoctial gale, which came howling over the great deep.
Soon the sharp voice of the commander was heard ordering

J* ""^

128

CANADA ;

one of his tota-fed sailors to j^o out on the b(»\vs])rit, and
chiW (Idvsn some of the tackle and canvas that liad worked
loose: after some fruitless efforts the sailor came alioard,
and stated lio eould not perform his task ou account of
the violcn(;e of the wind.

The venerahle skii)])er "cussed" him for a while, and
ordering him to take the wheel went forward to make all
snug himself. Whilst so engaged, and bending over the
bowsjirit, the brig took a green sea clean to her foremast
and the next ndnute the skii)j)er was seen on the crest of
a bilktw, littering loud cries for help. The "Gas]»e Packet"
was hove to, and an attem])t made to lower a boat, but it
was swamix'd and broke adrift. Carried on.vard by the
storm went the old brigantine, leaving her commander to
his fate, and soon desi'air seemed to take jjossession of the
minds of all on board, for old " Brulette " had ever l)een
the soul and ruler of the " Gasp(i Packet," always being
able to enforce his commands either by an oath or a belay-
ing pin, and the Jacks knew him so well that they never
thought or stopped to think for themselves. The niate was
so awe-struck by the catastrophe as to well-nigh loose his
reason. He retired helplessly to the cabin to pray : a sailor
was placed at the wheel, and once more the vessel headed
for Quebec. In addition to being well grounded in Jirulette's
temjierance jirinciples, his crew were very sujerstitiousi
and totally devoid of that self-reliance and nautical know-
ledge for which the Canadian caboteursare so conspicuous,
for no sooner had darkness set in on the troubled waters
than down came the steersman, and at his heels the c(-ok,
vowing by all that was sacred that a black object, which
they were certain was the captain's ghost, had passed over
the brig. One sailor alone, who had brought his own grog

t SHIPWRECKED SAILOli.

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

131

ribdiird in his chost, seems to have been free frf>in theso
vain fours, but he was a new bund und ntit funiiliar with
th(^ const ; h(! wus bcwildi'ivd by tlie rain und darkness, and
allriwcd the " (Iusjk' Pac'k(!l " to tukebcr o\\ n course, merely
keepinj^f her liead strui«^ht. Sonu; time bad tl»us passed,
during' which tlie vessel had shipi)e<l some heavy seas,
which swept the deck and ])oured profusely into the cabin,
where the mate and the rest of tlie crew were en^mgcd in
j)ruyer, when, without a moment's warnin<,', a terrific; (;rash
was heard, and the foremast went by the board, tht; vessel
had struck on Red Island lieef, the roar of the surf and the
dim outline of the land soon revealed that fact. At this
moment the slight hojje which still lingered in the breasts
of the crew seemed to have fled. The brig had not been
stranded many moments when a huge wave inundated the
cabin ; the intrepid steersman rushed below, and heard the
voices of his shii)mate3 begging him to join in avow to La.
Bonne Sfe. Aiine, the patron saint of the mariners. Some
of the ailVighted hands even went so far as to })romise their
next year's wages, which they could safely do now that the
skipper was gone, but the Sainte was not to be conciliated,
and had evidently heard such promises before, for she re-
fused to help or even aid them for less than Kpot cash; so
whatever the brave seaman thought at that moment of the
Sainte, he evidently considered it his duty to do his utmost
to help himself, and knowing the vessel would goto ])ieces
in a few minutes, he seized one of the hatches, lashed him-
self to it, and watching for a coming wave he dived over
the side of the ship. He drifted with the ebb and back again
with the flood tide the whole night, and was jucked up in
the morning near the south shore of the St. Lawrence, and
he alone of the entire crew of the " Gasp(^ Packet " escaped
to tell the tale of terror and shipwreck.

,-^^S5=

132

CANADA ;

THE SAGUENAY RIVER.

Tlie Sagnenay, one of the largest tributaries, enters the
St. Lawrence river six miles below Tadousac, 115 miles
from Quebec. The river is the outlet of Lake St. John, and
is some 140 miles in length, an excellent stream for ship
navigation, and vessels of the largest size ascend the entire
distance. The stre^ru itself is a grim, gloomy and peculiar
one ; its rough and uncouth surroundings, together with its
eternal gloom, seem to impress the visitor with wonder and
amazement, and make him wish he was home. Once seen
few care to gaze upon its beauties again. The ascent of the
river is made ahuost in stillness, only the mr)notonou.s
plash, plash of the steamer's paddles, with the hoarse escape
of steam ever and anon, re-echoing amidst the savage \vild-
ness, seems but to make the silence more impressive.
Nature itself seems wearied out, and cast her huge bare
cliifs around promiscuously, with hardly an effort to cover
their cold, bleak and desolate sides with the scantiest
Terdure ; and it is with a sigh of relief that the traveller
emerges from its sullen gloom. It is wild witliout the
least variety, and grand even in its solitude and seeming
desolation, whilst so dreary and monotonous becomes the
constant gazing on towering black walls of rock that any
change to thoughts savoring of life is eagerly grasped.
Over 300 years ago Jacques (I'artier landed at its mouth
and rested at Tadousac, and the first mention we have of
the Saguenay is one which well befits its savage as])ect,
for Cartier sent a boat and crew to explore its rocky
diasm, which were never more heard of (he was a wise
man was Cartier, and did not believe in doing himself
what others could do for him). At the mouth of the river
the water varies in depth from fifty to seventy-five feet,

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

133

nitire
3uliar
th its
iv and
seen
of the
onoiis
;scape
A'ild-
issive.
} bare
I cover
Liitiost
Her
the
niing
3 the
any-
sped,
uoiith
IV (^ of
s]>ect,
rocky
wise
iniself
river
B feet,

,VCJ

but once between its walls of rock the depth is never ■ ss
than oOO feet, sometimes as high as 750 feet. On either
side, at a distance of about a mile, the cliffs rise up straight,
dark, and weather-scarred, varying in perpendicular from
1,200 feet to 1,600 feet, — suoli is its character from its
source until it joins the. St. Lawrence. On the right bank
the clilt's are poorly mantled here and there with stunted
pines and scrub timber, but on the left there is scarcely a
sign of life or verdure, and the rocks stick up bare and
rugged in the gloomy atni()si)liere Hke the bones of an (jld
world after a terrible volcanic disturbance. Lake St. Jolin,
the head water of the river, is some forty miles in length
fringed with lieavy timber and a level sandy country. Its
waters are clear, and contain numbers of small fish, eleven
rivers flow into the lake, and yet it has but the one outlet
for its immense body of water.

There is a curtain hW of some two hundred and tliirty-
six feet called by the Indians " Oueat Cliouan," flowing into
the lake, and so conspicuous as to be visible for some miles
distant ; there are several towns along tlie Saguenay, and
from which large ({uantitics of timber are annually
exported. A few miles ])elow the southern fall in the
river is Chicoutimi, which is the head of tide water, and to
which point vessels of the largest class ascend for lumber,
Ha ! Ha ! Bay, some sixty miles from the St. Lawrence, is
a fine spread of water after emerging from the gorge of
the Lower Saguenay; it is said the name was given to the
bay, in an ecstasy of delight by a i)arty of explorers, who
were astonished to find open water after such dismal
realities. At two places, St. Marguerite and between Capes
Trinity and Eternity, where smaller tributaries help swell
the deep black stream, a breach occurs iu the wall of rocks

^^...^

134

CANADA ;

as if some giant hand had torn them forcihly back and
left them strewn and baffled of their povver, in unctHith
lumps over the valleys beyond, but these are the only o])en-
inti;s, from the silent gloom of this dead river. Than these
two dreadful headlands nothing can imagined more
grand or impressive : the rugged char; r of the river is
partly softened, and bears an aspect akm to the canons of
the Sierra Nevada in freshet time ; the land wears a look of
life and wild luxuriance which, though not rich, seems so
in comparison with the previous awful barrenness. Cape
Trinity is thickly clothed with tir and beech, mingled in
a color contrast, which is pleasant and attractive to the eye,
especially when the rocks show out amongst them with
their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver
shining in the sun. But Cape Eternity is the very reverse
of this, and well becomes its name. It is one tremendous
cliif of limestone, more than 1,500 feet high, ana inclin-
ing forward more than 200 feet, and seeming as if
at any moment it would fall down and overwhelm
the deep black stream which flows so cold, deep and
motionless below. Companionship becomes a necessity in a
solitude like that encountered on the Saguenay, if only to
relieve the mind of the feeling of loneliness and desolation
that seems to oppress all who venttire up this stern, grim,
watery chasm, for the idea of mirth abroad seems like a
schoolboy's idea of fun in a grave-yard at midnight.

Statue Point is another attraction where at about 1,000 feet
above the wjiter a huge rough gothic arch gives entrance
to a cave. Before the entrance to this black a]ierture a
gigantic rock once stood; some winters ago it gave way,
and the monstrous block of granite came crashing through
the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance

FROM THE LA.KES TO THE GULF.

135

ynm,
ike a

way,

to the cabin it had guarded, perhaps for ages. The Tableau
Rock is a cliff of dark limestone, some 600 feet high by
300 wide, straight and almost as smooth as a mirror. At
different points of the ascent steam is shut off, and the beat
views presented to the traveller, and plenty of time is
allowed by the captain for a thorough study of the various
aspects of the scenery. In times past the Marguerite and
other tributaries, together with the Saguenay, bore an
excellent reputation for salmon fishing, but in this respect
these rivers are becoming beautifully less each succeeding
year : all the really productive streams where fishing is a
sport, or even can be made a pastime, are leased to private
parties or individuals, so that the enthusiastic disciple of
Izaak Walton who expects to find good fishing along the
rivers of Lower Canada will return considerably enlightened
with regard to Canadian tishiug. At Tadousac the Gov-
ernment have one (»t their fish-breeding establishments,
and it is said there are so many officials who have to be
supplied, and so many friends in Parliament who watch
with interest the venture, tliat it takes all the larger size
fish to supply the want of those who advocate the institu-
tion. The small fry from one inch to an inch and a half
long are turned adrift at the mouths of the rivers to which
they are consigned, where they at once become food for
sea-trout, king-fishers, ducks, gulls, &c. This is now the
sixth year that these fish-breeding operations have been
established, and it is estimated that for every full-grown sal-
mon distributed to the rivers it must have cost the Govern-
ment some $75 each fish. One thing is certain, and to
which fishermen and habitants all agree in opinion, that,
since the Government has taken to making laws and re-
gulations as to tish and fishing, the fishing has been getting

130

CANADA ;

worse. An Indian was asked if he could give any reason
for the gradual decrease of salmon in the Saguenay dis-
trict, and his reply was : " They try make salmon at Tad-
ousac — God not like that, salmon not like that, salmon go
away." In ten days fishing on the "Marguerite" five
salmon were seen in and out of the water, and each with
the unmistakable mark of the net around its neck; there-
fore the best way to go salmon iishing on these rivers is to
go to sleej) or read and smoke and hire an Indian to ca])-
ture or catch you the fish needed. The sea-trout fishing
in the Saguenay district is getting worse and worse every
year. The Bergeronne is mostly reserved by the Govern-
ment for the preser cation of sea-trout, so by the time
the habitants and the Government net have closed their
operations there are but few left to be either preserved or
destroyed.

LE GENIE DE L'ILE I'EKCE.

There are several delightful legends connected with the
Saguenay and the Lower St. Lawrence ])ublished at
Quebec, and in the French language, that will amply repay
the time and labor s})ent in their translation. L'Oniithologie
dv Canada, Soin'cs C<inadientu'S, Ilistoriccd Wurhfi of
Marmette, and Maple Leaves, by Dr. Le i\Ioine, are all
very entertaining.

L ISLET AU MASSACRE.

Not far from Bic Harbor there lies a small island to
which there is attached (|uite an interesting legend. For over
200 years it has been known as I'lslet au Massacre. Tra-
dition and history furnish the details of the scene of blood
by which it gained its name. It is related that some 200

lid to

l' over

Tra-

Iblood

200

LE GENIE DE L'ISLE PERCE.

FROM THE LAKKS TO THE GULF.

139

Micmac Indians, being about to remove fi rtber np tbe
country to botter^bunting-rrrounds and more peaceful
neighbors, camped on this island for the night, lit their
fires in a cavern amid tht^ rocks, and placed therein their
wives and children. Apparently no place could be better
adapted for their safety and security from outside foes, the
navern reaching some distance back in the lofty rocks
which bound the coast. The canoes were drawn hi^li upon
the beach, their evening nnal was ended, the })ipe of peace
indulged in, stories were related of the spoils of the chase
further west, and at last, wearied and tired, in fancied peace
and security, these warriors with their wives and children
were sound in profound slumber, quietly awaiting the
return of the morrow's sun to resume their journey. The
Micmacs slept, but their lynx-eyed enemies, the Iroquois,
were wide awake, and had scented out their prey. Silently
approaching the Island, in their birch bark canoes, they
Ciinif, until a considerable number were congregated to
compass the destruction ol tbe shimbering foe. 1 i rties
were disjjatched in all directions, and came back laden,
with birch bark, fagg(,ts, and other liuht and combus-
tible materials, and, when all was prepared and
in readiness, the Iroquois noiselessly surrounded the
cavern and piled the faggots high above its mouth,
whilst the sleepers were still dreaming inside. They
then applied the torch, and gave their double yell, their
fiendish and well-known war-whoop. In terror the Mic-
macs awoke and seized their arms, resolving to sell their
lives dearly, and to defend to the last their scjuaws and
loved ones, but the scorching flames and suffocating heat
leave them but one alternative, that of rushing out from
their lurking place, it was their only mode of escape from

,. <^> ' 'T

140

CANADA ;

deatli most horrible. Wild despair nerved their hearts, and
with one desperate resolve men, women and children
crowd throuji;h the narrow passage amidst the scorching
flames, but the human hyenas are on the watch, and as the
terror-stricken ones rush forth a sliower of poisoned arrows
mow them down. The Iroquois warrior gloating ftii liis
victory flonrislies his tomahawk with a yell of triumph and
deadly hate, and soon the silence of death pervades the
narrow abode. The time from the attack until morning
was tlicn spent by the victors in securmgtlie troi)hi('s — the
scalps of their victims, and history mentions that but five
out of the whole company of two liundred escaped with tlu^ir
lives. This dark deed, still vivid l)y tradition, is often made
the subject of remark by the Restigouche settlers, and until
a few decades ago the blanched and mouldering bones of
the Micmacs could be seen strewn over the grotto. Tliis
deed is mentioned in Jac(|iies Cartier's Second Voyage, Ch.
IX., and is the subject of a legend in the Soirees Cana-
diennes.

The student of psychology whilst raml)ling on the islands
of the lower St. Lawrence, or up the silent Saguenay, will
meet with numberless places where deeds of darkness were
perpetrated in such modes as to still chain the restless
wandering s})irit to the things of earth and its wild abode,
whilst here no doubt those disturbed and restless spirits are
still meandering about the places from whence they dei)avted,
and are possibly endeavoring by all the means within their
power to make known through some medium in rapport with
themseh es the terrible history of the deeds of their time.
Many are the tales told by sailors and others, which, although
laughed at, cannot be scientifically or reasonably explained
away — the various apparitions of restless spirits that still

FROM THE LAKRS TO THE GULF.

141

iiied

linger or visit those gloomy rocks, and of the plaintive
sounds and doleful cries uttered hy the Bralllavd de la
M(Kjdelehie, so that the secrets so long silent may yet be
revL'aled to those who are sutticiently versed with the woik-
ings of the so-called supernatural to pursue and held
converse with the troubled spirits who have gone before.

FISHING, AND WHERE TO FISH.

To those who have enjoyed the delights of the luscious
" Pompino" of Florida waters, or the /S'/Ktn/.s/i mackerel,
bass, or sheepshead of the (lulph Stream, the enjoyment of
fishing in fresh water is but the desire and sport of catching
them, for the fish of these fresh-water lakes and rive-s seem
flat and insipid to the taste when cooked in comjtarison with
the finny tribes caught south of Lat. 35° X. Ibnvi'ver,
during the summer months, when parties are roaming all
over the Domonion, there /« a delight in organizing a
small party, and either fishing on the lakes or camping
and fishing on the rivers of the Lower Provinces, so I
attem[)t, therefore, to show the entire route with the fish to
be taken at each point. In Lake Superior the neighbor-
hood of the Manitoulin Islands atfords good sport, besides
famous camping grounds. Steamers ]tass constantly, so
that even a short sojourn can be made very liealth-giving
and pleasant. Down Lake Huron, Southampton is a favor-
ite resort, and, should you be content with pickerel, herring
and white fish, sport in plenty can be obtained. Living is
cheap and hotels are numerous, whilst the Islanil and St.
Lambert light but a mile away make a pleasant ground for
recreation and picnic parties. Near the lake at Southam])ton
there is a fine spring of water strongly impregnated with
iron and salts, so that for the weak and debilitated there

142

CANADA ;

is life in the waters, whether you drink them or use tliem
for ))iitliinj,'. For tliose v.iio like to stroll by themselves,
tliey ciiu wiiiuler up the Siuijieen river, which enipiics into
Lake Uuidn at tiiis point, and thus acquirt? ]iractice in
handling the rod. lioth the Lakes of Huron and Superior
live noted f(.)r the high winds that prevail during the summer
season, so tiiat, althougii fre.->h and bracing, novices should
not trust themselves too far from the shores without an expe-
rienced hand to manage their boat. Forty-live miles south
from Northamjjton lies the town of Kincardine, well situated
on rising ground. Here also j)lenty of lake lishing can be
enjoyed at a nominal cost, whilst means of access to the
cities are both by boat and rail. Goderich, the next town
ah)ng the borders of the Lake, is a regular summer resort,
and is usually well j)atronized with visitors. Here are line

views, good drives, and a nice park for promenades, so that
fishing, although once in a, while an hour or two is devoted to

its delights, still, time is generally occupied in a less
prolital>le but ])resumably more pleasant manner. It is
rumored by some of the oldest settlers that time was
wh(Ui game, wild fowl, deer, bear, etc., etc., were jdentiful
from here to Owen Sound, but it seems they anticipated
Uncle Horace's advice and went west t<jward the setting
sun before the arrival of those settlers, At Sarnia and
Port Huron, on the Ameriean side, pleasant enjoyment can
be had, whilst the sail down the river and through ].,ake
St. Clair can be nuxde the subject of many a delightful re-
miniscence. Thence down the St. Clair river to Windsor or
Detroit and into Lake Erie, From Pelee Island down, the
same class of fishing is obtained ad nauseam — white fish,
hass, pickerel and herring. Then from Fort Erie through
the new canal to St. Catharines, and take a quiet week's rest

:ifiil
nit(3cl
Lling

and

can
Lake
111 re-
;oi' or
I, the

tish,
ougli

rest

, i M i ^C

') !IS

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

145

at the little town of Niaj^ara. Here you find yourself with
pleasant, quiet, hospitable people on both slmres A quiet
lazy life you pass here, eatching herring if you do not care
to leave the dock, or lolling in your boat and trolling for
magnificent black fish and bass on the shoals off the old
Fort Niagara. Tiring of this you t^ike steamer or cars to
Kingston, and amongst the Thousand Islands from
Kingston to I'rescott, or on the other side to Alexandria
Bay, you will find ample sjjort to repay for all trouble
or expenditure, whilst the scenery and surroundings are
beautiful during the si)ring, summer and fall. Should, how-
ever, you tire of the cunning muskalonge, the voracious
pike, the speckled trout, or the heavy Imss, just take the
steamer fit any point on the shore, run the ra]»ids, and in a
few hours you land in Montreal, then re-ship on either the
" Quebec" or " Montreal," and next morning you me landed
in Quebec. However, should you wish to stop en route,
there is both good gunning and fishing n( ;ir 8orel or Trois-
Rivieres (Three Rivers); but on arrival at Quebec you find
yourself at the best starting-point for fishi. ^ east or north-
east for parties in quest of salmon or sea-trout or other
game fish at once worthy of the aspirations of the expe-
rienced angler. The green, black or striped bar fish, pickerel,
perch and shad are fish that give capital sport, whilst their
flesh is firm and well-flavored. Lake St, Joseph, Lake of
Seven Islands, and others within a few miles of Lake St.
Joseph, and others but a short distance from Quebec, such
as Clear Lake, and its neighbors Lake Jaune, Lake Bonny,
Lake St. Charles and Lake Beauport, are good fishing
grounds for lake-trout, brook-trout and black bass. Then
there are the Jacques Cartier, St. Ann, Montmorency, St.
Charles, Etchemin and Chaudiere rivers, all near at hand.

1'?

146

CANADA ;

and yield fair trouting for beginners. In the Murray
river you might make your first trial after salmon, and
the probabilities are that you would be a long way
after them, but still it would be practice. On the south
shore from Murray Bay you can take the cars to Somerset
Station, then by driving a few miles you can whip such
quiet places as Lake Jt ieph, Lake William, Trout Lake
and British Lake and the streams towards Black Lake for
trout, which will give good sport to the fly fisher ; or you
can take the cars toward Riviere du Loup, making a tour
of the rivers and lakes which abound along the coast ; but
still seeking for better fish, fewer flies and freedom from
mosquitoes, cross to the Saguenay for sea trout. Anybody
there, for a small consideration, can tell you when, where,
and how to fish. Advice is cheap and })lenty, for during the
winter each permanent fisherman has been putting in his
time by accumulating stores of it, in anticipation of being
able to unload it on the unsuspecting sportsmen during the
ensuing season. At the Bergeronnes and in the lakes on the
opposite side of the Saguenay lake-trout are very plenty and
very large, but taking lake-trout seems like child's play com-
pared to the tact and science required in taking tidal-trout.
With regard to salmon fishing up the Saguenay, you will
find that the few streams that still hold them have all been
leased, and are therefore private property, so it is always
policy to hire another fellow to ca])ture the salmon, and
besides there is less risk of having to pay from $5 to 810 for
each fish, whilst the honor is accorded you just the same
upon arrival in camp or at the hotel. The fishing season lasts
from about the 1st of June until the middle of September.
Salmon time closes by law with the month of August,
whilst grilse run from ten to twenty days in August.

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

147

Murray
3n, and
,g way
e south
omerset
Ip such
it Lake
Lake for
; or you
12 a tour
last ; but
om from
Anybody
Q, where,
aring the
ng in his
of being
uring the
es on the
lenty and
lay com-
al-trout.
you will
all been
is always
on, and
;o $10 for
the same
.son lasts
ptember.
August,
lust.

Eighty miles below Tadousac is the River Bersimis, where
the angler can fish for salmon without being interru])ted or
interfered with ; but if ever an unfortunate salmon happens
to get captured in that stream I would be pleased to hear
of it, and also to note the event. Forty miles below is the
Mistassini Itiver, a small stream and tolerably well stocked
with small fish. It has been rumored that one or two
fine fish attempted to ascend this stream and got aground,
but working off they got back and spread a bad report
amongst their neighbors, therefore the stream is only
patronized now by the small fry. Just below is the Becscie,
and just such a stream fifteen miles further is the " God-
bout," but the privilege of fishing its waters is leased, so
all that remains is to " hire another " ingine. The Trinity ,
16 miles below, gives good trout, but the salmon have
moved away. The Calumet, Pentecost and Little Margue-
rite are all of the same character. Moisic river is leased, but
in Trout river, seven miles below, middling sport can be
had in July and August. The St. John is a large stream
with plenty of fish, but has the name of being a sulky
stream.

Trout River to the Mingan is about ninety-five miles ; both
in the Mingan and the Manitou salmon are plentiful, and
rise well to the fiy. The Romaine River is nine miles further
down, and fishing there is attended with some danger, but
the river is well stocked with fine large fish. Fifty miles
below is the Great Watscheeshoo, on the bankj of which
you will find good camping-grounds, with pools well sup-
plied with salmon ; the best of the sport being obtained
from about two miles from its mouth to the head of the
island that divides the channel just above the first ra])id.
Forty miles further you reach the Natashguhan, which

148

CANADA ;

stream will well repay a visit, being full of fish, rang-
ing from five to forty pounds. You may select almost
any spot, and need move no further, for the fish are
merely waiting to be caught, and are certainly offering
a premium for a curing and dry-salting establishment.

Still further on, in distances of from twenty to one
hundred miles, there are Kcgashka, Musquarro, Was-
heecootai, Olomanosheebo, Etaniamu, Meccattina, and
Esquimaux rivers, all good sized streams, and will afford
the angler considerable sport, together with quite enough
labor and fatigue as to make him at times " too tired to eat."
Camp life is enjoyable, and when night closes down after a
successful day's catch, and when solace is being obtained
from the meerschaum or weed, how happy we feel, and how
our credulity is taxed to believe that the line bore a strain
of 187 pounds before it gave and parted, and the fish was
seen and must have weighed fully 80 pounds, and then so
lively. Sometimes we think the hook miglit have caught
in the drift, but it would be a pity to spoil the narration,
therefore we accept.

In the rivers on the island of Anticosti trout are
abundant, and salmon are occasionally taken. Salmon
Eiver is near the north coast ; whilst Jupiter, Shal-
lop, and other rivers on the west and south of the
island, can be reached either frcim Mingan or from Gaspe.
The Gasp(5 rivers aflbrd good salmon and trout fishing,
and hold the reputation of being first-rate fishing gi'ounds.
There are several rivers on the south coast below the Meti..
that afford good sport, and others that are of good repute
on the coast of Labrador. Sea-trout fishing in July or
August, after the run is commenced, is one of the best ajid
most enjoyable sports the country can offer : th e fish are

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

149

rang-

ilmost

h are

R'ering

to one

Was-
i, and

afford
jnough
to eat."
after a
btained
ind how
a strain
ish was
then so

caught
nation,

)ut are
Salmon
, Shal-
c)f the
Gaspe.
tishing,
rrounds.
iQ Meti>.
repute
July or
)est and
fish are

in fine condition, beautiful to look upon, exquisite in flavor,
and extraordinarily strong and active. Strong tackle must
be used, as it will come in very opportunely in the event
of a tussle with a salmon. Wherever there is a tide ripple
or eddy they lie thick, and take with a rapidity that is sur-
prising,— from one to three and a half pounds is the average
weight. The flies requisite for the spoit are the scarlet-
ibis wings, with gold or silver twist for bodies, the j\hirch
brown, the cowduug, orange dun, cinnamon fly, red tackle
and bright red-bodied fly with grey wings ; small flies and
light strong tackle are best. A table of distance is appended,
so the fisher can choose his own route. On the south side
of the St. Lawrence, the established railroad and steamboat
routes are suitable. To arrive at the north coast it would be
necessary to charter a yacht or small schooner, which is
by far the most pleasant mode, and where five or six join
together it is astonishing at the small amount of expendi-
ture for a season's enjoyment. Yachts or schooners, with a
competent man to take charge, can be obtained either in
Quebec or Gasp(^, but should you be alone you can invari-
ably find either a schooner or steamer that will transport
you and your camp to the point desired. Tents now-a-duy s
are made so light and durable, and of such various designs
and shapes, that the selection must be left to the choice of
the party, but you will find a circular or tripod tent
far preferable to the square bbCituse of the less resistance
they offer to the wind, whilst they are far more securely
fastened. Use a spliced rod for salmon, well balanced, 16
to 18 feet in length. Ash, with a lance wood, whalebone or
tortoiseshell tip or of greenheart wood, will render good
service. Mount a click reel with 100 or more yards of
waterproof line, stock your book with casting lines, double

150 . • CANADA ;

ones, and flies of sober materials. For provisions, take every-
thing you need, for little is obtainable excej)t eggs and
gometimes milk, so it remains between yoursplf and your
grocer whether the provisions and other requisites have
been up to the standard of your desires. Sometimes you
will be fairly dealt with, but oh my ! look out first your-
self and then trust the gi'ocer the next time.

DISTANCES, AND HOW TO GET THERE.

From Detroit, Windsor, Port Huron, Sarnia, Goderich,
Kincardine and Southampton, there are several lines of
steamers running the entire lengths of Lakes Huron and
Superior. Passage on either of them is very reasonable, and
the tourist can be landed at almost any point he desires.

From Manitoulin Island to Saull Ste. Marie, steamer 110 miles

" Saiilt Ste. Marie to Owen Sound, steamer 240 "

" Owen Sound to Southampton, staee 35 "

" Southampton to Kincardine, road or boat 45 "

" Kincardine to Goderich, '• " 35 *•

" Go<lericli to Surnia or Port Huron, road or boat . .. . 40 "

" Sarnia to Windsor or Detroit, " " 2() "

" Windsor to Pelee Inland, Lake Erie, boat 45 "

" Pelee Island to Fort P>ie, " Port Colborne," boat. . 185 "

" Port Colborne to St. Catharines, road or canal 22 "

« Niagara to Toronto, G.WR., t)Ottt H2 "

•' Toronto to Kinjiston, rail or boat Iftl '•

" Kingston to Montreal, " " 172 "

" Montreal to Quebec, " " 180 "

" " to Ottawa, " " 119 "

" Quebec to Lake St. Jo.«eph, road 14 "

" " to Tiidousac 115 "

" " to Murray Bav 75 "

" « toCampbellton, railto Gaspe, boat 314 «

•• Tadousac to Bersiniis 80 '*

" Bersiniis to Mistassini 40 "

" Quebec to St. John, N.B 588 «

" " to Halifax. N.S 686 •<

« " to Anticosti 450 '*

" Picton, N.S. , to Charloitetown, P.E.I .36 "

" Halifax to Pictou, N.S 114 «

During the season, when navigation is open, the Richelieu

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GUL^.

151

«
<(

n
t (
(<
((
ti

(C
(•
<i
It
<(
<«
{(

a
cc
((

((

Ihelieu

and Ontario Navigation Co. run a daily line of mail steam-
ers from Hamilton, the south-western end of Lake Ontario,
calling at each port along the borders of the Lake, through
the Thousand Islands, and running the famed rapids, to
Montreal. The samo Company also run a daily line from
Montreal to Quebec of large palatial steamers that are cer-
tainly the finest class of boats in the Dominion. They also
connect four times a week at Quebec for the Sague-
nay and Lower St, Lawrence. From Quebec, the Inter-
colonial Railway connects at Campbellton with steamer
City of St. John for Gasp(5 ; at Riviere du Loup
by mail steamers for New Brunswick and Saguenay
steamers ; at Moncton with steamers to Summerside and
Charlottetown, P.E.I. ; at St. Johns for the United States
and the Upper Canada.

HALIFAX.

Gasp6 on Gasp(5 Basin was at one time quite a noted
port, being the rendezvous for the fishing fleet of the entire
coast, beside considerable timber business l)eing transacted.
Now since the consolidation the harbor seems to have lost
its charms somewhat, and although there are delightful
legends connected with its coast, and former piratical and
citizen wreckers ; passing visitors do not seem to care about
remaining to acquaint themselves with its mode of life, or
to explore tho scenery or its surroundings. There are
several large fimis who still employ numerous hands and
fit out quite a fleet of fishing boats, the industry alone
assisting materially to support the business of the town.
The country itself is unattractive enough, being for the most
part unproductive sands and rock, although interspersed
at intervals with patches of seeming fertility ; but the

,, - ' m m I •

152

CANADA

inhabitants generally being Norwegians or Swedes, and
trade having fallen off considerably, the attractions for
settlers are not very numerous. Although food in the shape
of black bread, molasses, fish and pork, seems plenty and
to spare in each family, and freely shared with the stranger,
still, if confined to the one article of diet for a few years, a
man is apt to become weary of life and sigh for release,
although the " boys " assert " it's good enough so long's
there's plenty." It is stated that quite a number of rich
veins of lead and copper have been discovered in this
vicinity, and that there are every indications of a valuable
deposit of these metals, so possibly at some future time the
minerals and oil, with which it is believed the country
abounds may become a source of wealth to its people.
There are already a few lead mines some little di.stance off
that are said to be worked to an advantage, and to yield a
profit to their owners.

From Gaspd the coast presents several features of
interest. The rock or headland west of the bay terminates
in a perpendicular cliff overlianging a column of rock,
which is known as the " Old Woman." The shore,
after leaving, presents a long low line of red sand-
stone, worn and indented into all manner of shapes by the
action of the winds and waves. The various rocks and
islands now passed present to the beholder some peculiar
configurations, the result of the continual wear and action
upon them by the sea.

Keeping well to the north and east of the Magdalen
Islands, around St. Paul and Cape Breton Islands,
then to the southward and westward, we soon come
in sight of the light off Halifax harbor — the city lying well
back on the hill almost in the bight of the bay or inner

It"iiliiT'V"lf-i|i^iii7ll|fjlip»"

II :.

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

155

harbor. The liarbor of Halifax affordsa splendid uncliorarfe,
and is used by the British as the naval station for their
North Atlantic squadron, and also a coaling depot for
homevvard-l)ound steamships. As a military station it
was formerly well garrisoned, but of late the soldiers
stationed here have not been very numerous. It was
found l)y the authorities that, after an enfeebling service
in the West Indies or India, the bracing atmosphere of
Nova Scotia and Quebec was of immense benefit to the
men, and therefore took advantage of the situation offered
to locate their military and naval posts. It was in the
city of Halifax that the famous Fishery Award Connuission
brought itself into notoriety, and .vhose actions and practices
may yet foment bad blood amongst the citizens of two
great nations. The city of Halifax, the capital of Nova
Scotia, is situated on an eminence, and is connected with
the interior and northern ports by rail, which makes the
circuit of the inner harbor it lies in about the same latitude
as Bordeaux, France, 44° 30' N., but, unlike the latter
city, has not the soothing influences of the Gulf Stream to
moderate its winters and render pleasant the sunnner
months. The city at present contains some 45,000 inha-
bitants, and, being the shipping terminus of the Inter-
colonial R. R., is striving to become the winter port of the
Dominion, but as yet several obstacles seem to arise that
will have to be dispelled before the wish is realized : petty
and sectional jealousies will have to be dissijjated, energy
and enterprise must be evinced, elevators erected, and
public opinion so enlisted as to make the port a trade
centre, and a port for commerce. At present both Boston
and Portland monopolize a large proportion of trade through
the enterprising spirit of their merchants that might

156

CANADA

li'

I i i.

otherwise have been diverted for the benefit of Nova Scotia,
and it is doubtful that, were tlie subsidy that is now granted
to the " Allans " revoked, whether the vessels of that line
would ever call at the i)ort. Approaching from the sea the
view is a fine one, but the country around is poor, com-
prising rocks and sandy stretches, and clothed with a
verdure of scrub pine, with very little arable or agricultural
lands, therefore the inducements held out to settlers to
reside in its immediate neighborhood are neither very great
or very promising.

On entering the port of Halifax from the ocean the view
of the land is very gratifying to the eye, through the outer
harbor or bay, which will aftbrd good anchorage to the navies
of several nations. The sail is delightful, — a naval review
W(juid no doubt be a very pleasant sight to witness in its
waters ; thence through the inner harbor, and once landed
through the depot, you find the streets of the city narrow,
dingy-looking thoroughfares, lined with apparently dilapi-
dated dwellings, reminding one somewhat of the older French
portions, of Quebec or Montreal, although on the rise are
several blocks of business houses, well built, and faced
with granite, that would reflect credit upon business archi-
tecture of any city further west. The barracks for the use
of the garrison are a substantial and well-built block of
buildings, said to be but seldom excelled even in Europe—
another result of Great Britain's foresight for her soldiers
who have passed through so many vicissitudes in her service,
by the time of their transfer to this point, they are well-drilled,
cool and patient, and of the right material to render good
service in case of need, therefore it pays to keep them in
good health. The banks, court house and cathedrals are
fine structures. The City Hall, and Hospital comprise the

CANADA ;

157

public buildings. The people complain some of the publi-
city of the assertion by their neighbors of New IJninsvvick,
viz., " That the Nova Scotians are blue noses, and that tluiy
and the Cape Bretons pry the sun up with a handspike.
Wlulst they acknowledge the soft impeachment that their
noses may at times be blue, still they indignantly deny
that they have ever interfered with the habits of thu sun,
and I for one believe their assertion, for, if the glorious orb
of day had to rely on the Nova Scotians for an early start,
he would have to omit many a day's work in the course of

OLD TIMES OFF NOVA SCOTIA AND P. E. I.

the year. The Nova Scotia R. R. Co. do considerable local
business, transporting the general products of the country
by their passenger trains to the coast. Freights are mostly
composed of truck and car loads of bricks and ice, of which
products of skill and nature immense quantities are annu-
ally shipped ; the supply of material being considered by the
natives exhaustless, it must be a source of permanent wealth

158

CANADA ;

ii'

It i.s noodloss to state that the breaking open of freight
cars and thi appropriation of property whilst in tt'dUHit
is a criin f of very infretiuont occurrence, if not entirely,
unknown throughout the province.

It seems there is no fishing worthy of the name in Nova
Scotia, although numerous schooners are fitted out from
her ports, but they find their best markets elsewhere, and
the igiiomnr,e of the people respecting their neighbors of
the adjoining Provinces is something remarkable. The
country from Halifax to Windsor is yet as nature made it :
scrub timber, a mass of boulders, and bare rocks. Lakes
abound, an 1 on several of them companies have estab-
lished ice houses,with railways complete,for exporting ice to
the States and elsewhere. Some miles inland the country
changes, the rocks are softer, and include shales, sandstone,
limestone, and beds of clay, and in this portion the country
is cleared and well cultivated. The tide at Halifax rises
but four feet, whilst at Windsor, where the current has to
turn a point, the tide rises some 40 feet. In wider parts of
the Bay some 30 feet is the average, but in the Bay of
Mines, the water sometimes rises as high as 75 feet. In
some parts of the Bay are v/hirlpools that are considered
dangerous, and where the stream runs over 9 miles an hour,
and the si^ht is astonishing to notice what a few moments
before s< im d to be a harbor of mud covered with rushing
turbulent witers. About high-water mark the shores are
strewn with boulders of coarse granites and other rocks
foreign to these districts. In winter the Bay of Fundy
freezes, and the great tides pack the ice nntil it looks
like the boulders on the shores. No doubt the
moves the granite boulders and cuts into the groovi
banks like a saw. Ice marks abound in the district,

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULP.

159

and even at the summit level of 550 feet arc discern-
ible. There is an entire absence of hi<,'h mountains,
and local glaciers could not be accounted for (»n tliat hypo-
thesis, but the marks on the hij^hest top.s correspond in
direction with marks on the sea level twenty miles away.
The boulder clay contains fragments of sandstone, and the
coal measures lie to the N. 50 E. in Cape Breton and N.
W. in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

The hills range in altitude from 800 to 1,000 feet al>ove
the sea level, and extend almost due east and west from
Truro to a total length of about 100 miles, and average
from ten to twelve miles in breadth.

The prevailing geological formations in the Cobequid
Hills are granite, porphyry, and clay slate in the upper
portions ; above the shores of the bay, limas, and on the
northern side red sandstone and the coal measures. The
range is claimed to abound in minerals, a lavge vein of
specular iron ore occurs close to the line. No doubt, in the
future, the region will attract the attention of capitalists.
Stellarton is the centre of a rich coal district. Iron ore is
also found here in large quantities, and a furnace is in oper-
ation. The Albion mines have been worked some fifty years,
and a few miles away are the Drummond, Acadia and Black
Diamond mines. New Glasgow is some three miles from
Stellarton, and situated in one of the richest mineral terri-
tories on the continent ; it also has an extensive ship-build-
ing trade, some of the largest vessels hailing from Nova
Scotia having been built here. A track some five miles long
is laid from the mine to Abercrombie Point in South Pictou,
from which place the coal is shipped. The best mines
on the northern coast being those in the vicinity of Pictou
and New Glasgow. In the former place are not only

"0^-

:i!

160

FKOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

found excellent mines of coal, but valuable quarries of
building stone has been the means of producing a finely-
settled country in its neighborhood, and its trade is consid-
erable in stone, lumber, coal and fish, whilst that of New
Glasgow is assuming considerable importance. Brigs and
schooners from all portions of the American coast resort to
Pictou, and the exports of this little town have at times
amounted to considerable. The population is much the
same class of men that are found amc^ngst the " Geordies "
or in Wigan and Swansea, but are not as intelligent and
energetic as the miners of Pennsylvania, probably because
they are fewer in number and more under control ; but
churches are numerous, therefore a continued residence
amongst them would be the only means of ascertaining
correctly their ideas and their ambitions.

In this district, as generally throughout Nova Scotia, the
Scotch element predominates.

Opposite the town, the harbor extends and branches into
East, the West and Middle rivers, several mines and the town
of New Glasgow, Ixiing situated on the East river, boats also
run up the others. Naturally one of the attractions whilst
here is to go " down in a coal mine, underneath the ground,"
which ciin be done by taking the steamer that runs regu-
larly to the mines, and then making known your intentions
to the fore* ..in, who cjin generally find some one to chap-
erone you for a small ctmsideration ; then, if you are under
the guidance of an old miner, he will conduct you to the
mouth of the pit and bid you step into the cage or swinging
bucket, tluMi, with a " lower away " to the engineer, you
commence to (l<\scend, and every once in a while hear the
wire rope or chain crack above your head, which somehow
makes you feel a little nervous about dropping into the

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

161

also

list
lind,"

ll'j^'U-

mder
the

you
r the
ihow

the

black abyss, seemincrly so f\ir below. On arriving at the
level some hundreds of feet below the surface, you are
taken in charge by a guide with a grimy face and black-
ened clothes, who, with a bull's-eye lantern attached to his

.lACiJUKR CAHTIKK.

cap, leads the way, and sc^mehow or other, here in tlie
darkness and groping your way through those flickering
lights, you begin to think that at some sharp turning you

162

CANADA ;

may come suddenly in contact with His Satanic Majesty
himself; and when you remember the horrors the preacher
depicted and the unpleasant odour of the brimstone the
feeling comes over you that you wish you had not come
and would like to go home. Some of the miners on the
lower levels work in such cramped-up positions that on
aiTivinjT at the surface it is found almost impossible to
straighten, and after a few years* service the ac([uired form
of the body has become tlie most natural and comfortable
jxjsition. The mines are worked daily and during the Ixisy
season by additional gangs at night, the day gang returning
to the surface each shift, but the horses ar(; left constantly
below to perform the work of hauling from place to place, as
new levels are found and new veins struck. The vocation of
a miner is alive witli peril and fraught with danger, but the
men themselves are a venturesome jovial set generally
S])eaking, who view very lightly the hardships they undergo,
and even the numerous accidents are soon obliterated and
forgotten as soon {is the danger is jjast. The exj>losion and
flooding of the mines, and the recent Stellarton disaster, are
already l)ecoming to be quoted as an happening of the Icing
ago.

Twenty-four miles north-east from the City of Halifax
stands the grand old Mount T'niake, a baysaltic de})osit
whose rugged aspect gives but few signs of the mineral
wealth embedded in its formation. Its crystalized rock is
])ermeated with seanis and veins of goM, silver, and other
minerals, copj)er that represent the wealth of the world at
large, and will in no distant period become the means of
attracting thousands to its vicinity, for being in close
jiroximity to the city, and connecting with a series of hills
of easy ascent, no ditticulty will be experienced in trans-

FROM THK LAKES TO THE GULF.

163

long

linenil
l-ock is

other
hrld at
ims of

close
If hills

trans-

])ortation, whilst furtlier to the nortli, iK'yond tl)e hills, the
soil hecoincs prolitic, iiml is well watered and adniiiably
ada|>t(Ml to a<,'riculture and tlie sustenance of a niininjj;
])0)tulatiiin. Some of tlie hills seatti'icd over this portion
of Nova Scolia proihice a reinarkahle variation of the

nia<^netic needle, theveby indicatin<^ the jjresence of a body
of niagi.etie ore, and are supposed to Imj wonderfully rich
in precioiis metals, but furtluir north volcanic forces have
in the long distant past produced extraordinary results.

I ' *

164

CANADA ;

Limestone, granite and trap-rock are heaped in a confused
mass, presenting a surface at once rough and rugged, and
which will take both enterprise and capital to thoroughly
explore and lay bare their rich«*s. Being easy (jf access
and close to a port of entry, with the continued improve-
ments in stamping and quartz crushing machinery, Mount
Tniake offers to the investor unequalled inducements to
develop her resources. Mr. Henry Hogan of Montreal,
and also an exten^sive stockholder in the De Lery gold
I iino in the Province of Quebec, is also the owner of a claim
on Mount Uniake, comprising some 18 acres in extent area,
21 specimens of which upon being assayed through the
ordinary fire assay produce the following results: over \\
ounces virgin gold to the ton, being a production of
over 30 dollars per ton near the surface lode, and conti-
nually becomes richer as the vein is worked. Some three
barrels of the ore have been already sent to Boston, U. S.,
which has shown a result of 3^ ounces to the ton of ([uartz,
say about 67 dollars per ton. As improved niachinevy is em-
ployed, the mine is expected to yield on an average over 3
ounces per ton.

Hut to return to the Ca])ital l)ack again (which report

has it is situated just three miles from H , but

that libel was evidently circulated by an early settler in
disparagement of the country), gazing over the waters of its
harbors to those of the deej), broad and restless blue At-
lantic beyond, silently meditating, and oh ! the many scenes
and memories of years gone by that come rushing to the
mind ; episodes that trans] ''•ed upon its waters that at
times were productive of teri-r, at others of delight. The
waters, now .so placid and traiKjuil, seem hardly a part of
the same ocean that gave us such a terrible experience on

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GUIF.

165

the night of the 18th of October, 1858, when the home-
ward-bound Australian " Royal Charter " met her fate off
Puftin Island, or the angry seas that rolled over the niu li-
ster " Great Eastern" 500 miles westward of Cape Clear,
or those over which our swift blockaders were chased wliilst
making the South Carolinian port, each trip being fraught
with danger and death both from cannon on the surface
and chains and torpedoes below. The waters now so
still, with scarcely a cat's paw to disturb their glassy
serenity, seem as if rejMjnting of their boisterous actions
and alhiring fogs, when the noble " Atlantic " with her
living freight went head on to the bleak and sombre rocks
to her destruction, and the loss of nearly 500 human lives.
The terrible strength and fury of its wild waters when once
aroused is never obliterated from the memory of those
whose callings require theui to brave its fury whilst in its
passionate moods. Tlie first trip of the good steamship
" Minnesota," in tliB fall of 1872, comes vividly before
me : the fourteen days' combat with the winds and sea in
the Bay of Biscay ; the death of the quarter-master at the
wheel, with his ribs crushed in by the cruel spokes ; the in-
juring of the sailors ; the burials at sea, in the height of the
gale, and after escjij)iug the perils of the ocean ; the fire tliat
caught among the coals from combustion, and at the criti-
cal time the break down of machinery on Christmas day,
whilst still 300 miles eastward of Havana ; the bending of
the stanchions under the cotton deck, and the sliding of the
cargo of railroad iron, that momentarily threatened
destruction to over 200 souls on board, and the prayer of
thankfulness and sense of relief experienced wlien The Hole
in the Wall and Great Isaacs were first sighted. The heart-
felt eulogies that were passed upon those gallant officers and

166

CANADA

?^':

ytf "

true seamen, Captains Hamlin and Johnstoikt', .ire niomorie.:
tliat time cannot obliterate whilst the ocean remains to be
contemplated. And still another experience comes before the
mental vision : not of calm seas and hidden danj^crs, but
when mighty Boreas assumed full sway, and compelled
affrighted mortals to do him homage and acknowletige his
sceptre. The hurricanes exjjerienced in the spring of
187G, when the barometer even for the " roaring forties, " was
unusually low, the highest pressure being 28.80. The
hurricane is thus alluded to by a fellow voyager : At two
o'clock on the morning of Feb. 11, the barometer, which
had been stationary unusually low, commenced suddenly
falling, and the wind that had been blowing a gale from
the north-west suddenly veered to the south-west, and
by six a.m. was blowing a gale from that quarter ; at nine
the gale increased to a hurricane, and the sea " cross and
angry " literally ran mountains high. The ship wa.s
"hove to" with her head on, but the force of the wind was
tremendous ; hailstones struck with such violence as to
indent the woodwork where they fell ; it was impossible at
times for any human being to stand on deck except under
the lee of some of the houses or bulwarks, the waves mak-
ing a clean sweep of the shij), and carrying with them
everything that was not well bound down. At twelve
next noon, after hours of painful anxiety, the hurricane was
at its height, and a heavy double sea struck tlie ship, com-
pletely submerging her and burying her deep in the foam.
There was a moment of suspen.se as the feeling that the
vessel was settling down came over one, but a gentle throb
from the engMies gave signs that she was yet rising ; the
otiicer on the bridge found himself standing in the midst of
the boiling foam, with the feeling that the ship was gone

• ■! :t

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

167

from under him, and as he clung to the iron rails the storm
cr.nvas was swejit away, and the iron stanchions beiit
like wire. As the ship righted, the damage was ascertained.
The chart room, ofticers' rooms, surgery, with all the deck
houses, were entirely .swei)t away, timbers were smashed,
and the trim, staunch ship wore the appearance of having
passed through a fire. The gallant Captain Sadler with his
chi«f and second officers had a narrow escape with their
lives, whilst everything belonging to them was swept away
by the sea ; heavy seas were shipped afterwards, but the
force of the hurricane was spent, so, with a succession of
south-easterly gales, the good ship made the port of New
York. Such are some of the dangers encountered by those
who tempt the moods of Nepttme, but on days like this the
mind easily drifts away oft", on the dark blue waters of
the Gulf of Mexico or over the light green of the coral
reefs, amongst the West Indies, around the Florida coasts,
or skirting the " ever-faithful Isle, " but such reveries are
soon dispelled when we notice the practical, e very-day life,
indulged in by the fishermtm wlio make this port their stjirt-
ing-point, and surely a cod-fislier's life is not to be envied,
for it is generally laborious work and heavy risks. The
manner of their occupation usually followed is this : the
owner of the schooner, who is often the captain also, hires a
crew of from thirteen to fifteen men to work on "nfieeres,"
that is, so many parts of the profits for the owners, so many
for the captain, and a divide amongst the crew of the remain-
der. After shipping, a day or two is occupied in fitting out,
mending sails, setting running and fixing standing gear, and
getting the vessel ship-shape. The cook is sometimes sent
up town to lay in stores, and generally after ordering the
provisions down takes a parting glass and returns next

168

CANADA ;

■'1

day, and sometimes undur escort, to the »reat relief of those
wlio were anxiously vaiting for eight bolls and grub time ;
then sails are bent, decks washed off, touches of paint here
and there, ends of lines whi})ped, ropes coiled down, and
standing gear ja-ojierly seized ; a jigger all aroiind, and, with
a fair wind, the Hsherman stands out for the oiling. Now he
finds when; the discomfort begins : with a crew of from thir-
teen to fifteen or sixteen men, for one half to be below in, the
narrow limits of the cuddy, and in bad weather with the
hatches closed, is something stifiing, whilst on deck it is a
continual drench. The first day ojit and our fisherman is
transfornie<l mU) something a])proaching a farmer with a
hoe in one hand, and a bucket hard-bye. The crew are all
searcliing the shore for bait in the shape of clams, and in
the course of a day or so enough have been dug up to serve
for the trip. From the baiting-grounds to the " (leorgea
Banks "the time is generally occupied in mending line,
splicing ill hooks, improvising trolls and other tackle neces-
sary. Then, on arrival at the fishing grounds, the kedge is
dropped, and the crew are patiently .seated on deck with
their feet under the rail, in the wet, the chill and the fog,
patiently tending their lines and chawing terbaccer, and as
fast as the fish are hooked throwing them into the " well. "
At times in the midnight watch, when all seems so peace-
ful and .serene, some huge monster of an ocean steamer
comes ahnig and crushes over the poor fisherman without
ever feeling the shock or st(>pj)ing her engines, and from
fancied security he is hurried int(j a watery grave. Lucky
he deems himself if in a week or two the " well " is full,
anil they make back for a market with a successful catch,
and obtain a fair amount of cash to recompense them for
their labor, still, year by year, does the fisherman have to

FROM THE LAKES TO THE Gl'LF.

169

line,

leces-

,'e is

with

11(1 as
viiW. "
)eace-
uner
thout
from
ucky
full,
jatch,
m for
ve to

venture further and further from the coasts in the ([uest of
good grounds, until now the favorite localities are some
thousand miles from the shores of America.

Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and I'rinct^ Kdward Island,
the three provinces that comprise the Eastern portion of the
Dominifjn, contain intiie aggregrate some 7oO,()0() inhahi-
tants, hardly a sulHcient numbtM- to ])o])ulate a fourth-rate
city. Still these ])rovinces have three mimic houses of Par-
liament, with all the attendant dignity and parai)lu!rnalia ;
two houses of Representatives, and three Lieutenant (lover-
nors; in fact, if the strangers do not meet over tiveollicials
out of a possible six inhabitants or acquaintances it is<{uite
a subject of remark, and speculation is rife about the vacancy
that is thought about to occur, liutthis muchly-governed
little country brings to mind very forcibly the Mississip-
pian's ^i)inion of " Louisiana's llovernmeut, " that it was
nothing but a two-bit arrangement all around I From Hali-
fax to St. Johns, New Brunswick, is but a distance of 276
miles : here, as in Nova Scotia, Neal Dow's principles are
formally enforced and the only way for the bibulously-
iuclined to satisfy his longmgs is to " go to de docter," as
the colored gentleman advisetl his (juestioner, " why, boss,
de only way what you kin git relieved of dcm ere
cramps is to go to de ilrug-store man, fur dere is a female
samir ' ^ y (seminary) near town, and de probation laws is a
gwine here." So after paying lu-avily for a}irescription, and
imbibing some of the meanest concoctions of spirits and ex-
tmcts, you fancy that the scriptural injunction was altogether
wrong and astray, or at all events not adapted for these pro-
vinces, when it recommended to " give strong drink to him
that is ready to perish, and wine to they that be of lieavy
heart. " Of course throughout this barren unproductive region

170

CANADA

should anything be taken that would make glad the heart of
man, it would possib'y deplete his purse, and. as the oppor-
tunity would in all probability never again occur for him to
obtain another nickel or a dime it would be the height of
folly to waste or expend that amount on a pleasure that was
but momentary, for, as a friend remarked, " I feel pretty bad
to-day, I have been reckless, and another ten cents has
gone to the devil."

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.

From Halifax to Pictou is some seventy miles over a rocky,
hilly, and generally unproductive, country ; and from this
coal region to Charlottetown is but fifty-five miles, whilst
means of communication between the two ports is kept up
regularly during the season by steamer. Charlottetown is the
capital and principal port of Prince Edward Island, which
Island is divided into three counties. Kings, Queens and
Prince, and contains about 100,000 inhabitants. The Island is
some one hundred and thirty miles in length and thirty-four
miles in its greatest breadth, averaging eighteen miles. It is
an excellent farming country, and its soil is very fertile. Its
coasts on all sides are very much indented by inlets from the
sea. Several of which form good harbors. The Island itself
lies between 46" and 47° N. lat., and between 62° and
64" 30' W. Long. The Island is situated in the southern
portion of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is separated from
the mainland by the Strait of Northumberland , and from
Cape Tormentine in New Brunswick to Cape Traverse in
P. E, I. is but a distance of nine miles. It seems there
were several claimants, from John Cabot down, who asserted
that they were the first discoverers of the Island;
but, as possession was nine points of the law, in the

; .

FROM THE LAKES TO THE C.UI.F.

171

year 1523 one Verazzani, in the employ of the French
Government, planted, as was usual in those days, the
emblem of Christianity on its soil, and claimed the whole
region round about for the King of France, alth()ui,di no
attempt for the settlement of the Island was made until
the year 1063. In that year a French naval oflicer obtained
a grant of the Island from the company of New France
for the j)ur])ose of establishing fisheries along its coast,
somewhat after the style of our nujdern M. P.'s obtaining
North VV^est lands for the purpose of stock-raising, farming,
diatiling, &c., «fec., to benefit the country at large. In the
year 1713, and after a war of over two years' duration
between France and England, the Treaty of Utrecht was
entered into, and the Island began to be a .nettled Province,
and I'ort Joy, now Charlottetown, was first founded by the
French ; audit is claimed that in the year 1728 the }»(»pu-
lation of the Island was about 3U0, and at the time of the
Treaty of Fontainbleau, in the year 1763, the French had
peopled the Island to the number of some 8000. In
that year the Lsland was placed under the jurisdiction of
the Governor of Nova Scotia, who had it surveyed and
divided into sixty-seven townships or lots of some 20,000
acres each, which divisions still exist. At that tinus the
British were intent upon extending their territory and
planting colonies, so they started to give or grant to settlers,
upon certain conditions, this fertile little Island ; but so
numerous W3re the applicants that they organizt-d a lottery,
and the Island, in the shape of prizes, was awarded to some
sixty-seven lucky ones, or numbers. Of course, as a high-
toned moral and Christian nation, she would not counte-
nance such a proceeding at this day. The grants w«ire issued
through Lord Campbell, Governor of Nova Scotia. Two

I i

172

CANADA ;

lots of 20,000 acres eacli were bestowed ii]>on fi.shin^' com-
panies, and oik; lot of 0000 acn^.s was reserved fur tlie
Kiiif,', thereby showing that he was not very ninhitioiis of
owning much stock on this side of the Atlantic^ In 1770
the British Cloverninent, having no use for an Island so far
froni its shores nuule a sejiarate Province of it, and
allowed the Islanders to govern themselves, first ajuxtinting
a governor to keep thera in the traces. l)Mririg the
American war of independence this Island was often visited
by privateers, letireH-dn Manpte, and othei- vess(ds in
American service, and at times their visits were not with-
out interest, es]iecially in tlie vicinity of Charlottetown, for
not f)nly the Americans, but the Nova Scotians cast a
longing eye in the vicinity of the Island, and at one time
laid plans for its capture, but they fell through. On the
north-western and west by southern j)ortions of the
Islands are extensive sand bars that nuike it dangerous for
a mariner to a|)])roach in too close a ]»roximity to its shores,
The country has its mimic Up])er and Lower Houses of
Parliament, ollicers, civil, State, and ecclesiastic, with its
Lieut-Clovernor, judges, justices and other civic dignitaries
too numerous to mention, who administer ])ublic attairs
with an amount of dignity that is at once ludicrous and
amusing, and it is certairdy a problem for the new arrival
to solve h(jw so many officials exist when, ap]>areiitly, there
are no ]»rivate citizens to supjwrt him, but 1 sujiposc they
were all in the lobster factories or out fishing. The Island
is a good ]dace to spend a few weeks and on little cash, but
for a permanent residence and have to work for a living the
•• Good Lord deliver us ! " In many of the harbors on both the
northern and southern coasts are finely-fitted yachts be-
longing to residents, and it seems strange that regJittas tliat

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

173

havo Chivrlottetown or Stmnncrsidc for a terminal point uro
not iiioH! frei'ly indnlpul in by Portlund, IJoston and Svw
York, (lood defji-si-a Hsliinji can Ik* enjoyi'd at almost any
Itointofl' its shores, and the snninier travt-Mer will ccitainlv
tind it to his advantage to hurry through tlie rpiier
Trovinces and spendafe.v pK-asant week.s iti this vicinity.
To the northward of V. K. I. am situated the Mag-
dah'U Islands, some seven in number; tlu^y are inhabited
chictly by fishermen and those engaged in fishing and
coaling interests, so although their homes seem bleak and
desolate, still they enjoy in a comparative degree a sense of
indejKindeuce, and a free<lom from the cares, tricks and
tribidati(»ns, of this designing universe, as to render them
far happier in their j)overty than many of their favored
countrymen further west. Iceburgs and islands of ice are
fre(iuently nict with in crossing the (Jidf ul St. Lawrence
in summer months, which are thought to have descended
from the regions of Hudson's I»ay tir Havis Straits, whence
they have been detached or severed from the main body by
the violence of the st«jrms that occur in those latitudes,
ami parsing by the coasts (»f Labrador an; carried bv the
indraught of the current into th.- straits of Helle Isle,
thence through the gulf into th»* open sea. Sununer visitors
to these latitudes will tii»d both health and strength derived
from the trip, whilst in the middle (»f duly or August tliey
will have ample opportuni'.y for wearing winter clulliin<'
and donning their overcoats at night.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

The City of St John, the commercial depot of the Hay
of Fundy, is situated on the Harlx)r and at the mouth of
the river of the same name, and distant from Halifax

« -"!•«!■

II i^

174

CANADA ;

sniijc 27<'t miles and is also the cliicf Itiisiiic.i.s town in
tlic iM'ovincc; of New Hruns\vi(;k, containing' at jirt'scnt
,s(»ni(' :^'>,(M)0 inhabitants, and is built n|)on a rocky
jx'ninsnla of very uneven ^^Toiiiid, .slojiinj^ from a
eonlral rid<4e. A ^reat deal of labor has bct-n ('nijtloyed,
and eajiital ex|iende(l, in enttiii}^ down the hills, and level-
inj,' the strecits. The ])rinci|tal wharves, docks and ware-
houses extend tt) the north and around the head of the basin,
t(» within a sh<irt distance of the Falls, some five miles iij)
the St. .lolin Kivcr. The whoh? shore is lined with tind>er
})onils, booms and shijt yards, whic'n receive tlu; lindK-r
floated down the river.

'y\n\ harbor of St. John is a safe one, but not very
spai ions (ir ooiumodious, esjiecially at low water. From
its .Jii!lllowIu^srt, and tlit^ strenj^th of the current, larj^e .ships
;4<»nerally enter the harlxtr on the top of the flood tidp,
The tides rise somt^weuty-six feet ami, t here f(»r(*, {..Meat
facilities are allbrded for n'pairin^' and la\mchim; vesstds :
for tluriii^' the ebb the shores and a number of docks are
left dry, but during the flood the harbor is easy of accesfl
for tht^ larj^'cst ships, lait a strong; free wind is ne(!essary to
enable sailinj^ vesstds to enter without the aid of a tow-
Itoat. The approaches and the shoaU ar", "ivell marked and
buuN e<i ; the beacon on the bar is crowned bv a <'<»<h1 !i<rht,
whilst on Partrid^'e Island, at the entrance to the harbor,
there is a lin(! li|.;ht-liou8e, battery, si^,Mial station, and hos-
jtital. The trade (,f the city consiHts nuistly in tne ex]»ort
of timlxM', shipltuildinj,', and the prominent industry (»f
Nova Scotit, the Isracditiah occupation of m;iking
brick. The whole district of St John is rocky and lirokeii,
and viewed from any of the eminencea tlu; sceiujry is bold
and pictures(jue : the river at low water dashing forward in

ks luo

sarv U)
tuw-
1 and

larlxir,
1 1 liua-
•Nport
!iv <»f

luktMl,

,s bold
iird in

Ill '

m.:

FKOM THE LAKES TO THE CTLF.

177

Cdlutniis of .s|iray ruslii's throuj^'h a imrrow g(»r;4o into the
harbor, and covers tlie surface of the water with wreath.s of
foam. The whoU^ hasiii of the river seems to lie covered
with ships, steainlioats, an<l small craft. Its l>uil'iiM<»s are
suhstantiul, and ('((iiipare favorably with any in tlu; )»ro-
vinces, whilst with the |)e(»i>le there is a kind of don't-care-
a-cent, independent air, that is certaiidy refreshing', in re-
lief to the manners of some of the cities in rjijter Canada.
The Provimre of New lirunswick ischiidiy noted in hist»»ry
from the eternal 'luarrellinj,' and tij^htin^' amon^^rst its early
settlers to obtain j.os.session and a f(jothold for their res-
pective t^overnmeiits. Unt d the ycfar I7H4 the colony of
New Hrunswick ftrnu'd a poition of Arcadia or New
France, and was considered a jiart of Nova Scotia. I )"iring
tlie rei^Mi of Henry IV. a sjH'culator named i)e Mont.s
made the third attempt at coloni/.ation in the province; he
received from his soverei<,'ii almo.st uidimited powiirs and
privih'f^es, titles and ]>atents of noliility that covered ioin-
teen skins of parchment, and which took him three days to
read in order to discover how j^reat ii man he really uas.
His connnission endiraced all the territory from the 4iM,h
to th( 4(tth de<.;ret north laliiude, or from lludson'.s I'.uy
to X'ir^dnia; and he had the nionojxtly of the tiir trade
(»ver all that tract of c(»iintiy then called New l-iance.
1'hose old kinj^'s ami potentates of Muropi' ceitainly <lid
thin,i,'s >ip in style wlu-n they liked to eniMiiira}.je a fa\orite,
and were as liberal as our Paiiiaiuent to the Syndicate in
ffivinijaway that which they hardly owned, but, at any rate,
had no use for.

De Monts was a Protest^mt, so he at oure boiiowed all
the cashhecould from his friends to further his enterpri.su.
History does not state that lie ever returned il, or even gave

178

CANADA ;

luH iMito for it, got pcnnission to j^mvo his rolij^ioii a fair
show, oil coiidiliou of his jiro\ jdiiij^ a few CuIIkiHc iiiis.sion-
urics for llie conv«'i'.si<in of the natives, uiul to ojkmi up
trade ; so, having' pU'iity of < hristiaiiity, as a kind of a
cheap sto(;k-iii-tra(h\ he set sail, and on the 1 (»th ihiy of
May, H!()4, he arrived at Kossij^nol (now Liverpool). At
this pla(;e he found one Ivossinrnol, whose name the hai'l>or
had recidveil, tradinj^ with the Indians, and at once asktid
the p(jor ftdhnv to show his license, and Hossi<,fuol lufver
haviii}^ heard of such an instrument or knowing what its
virtue's Were, or even who had authority to issue such a
tiling', sjMjkc; out truthfully, and said : "that he had one all
ri^dil, hut h(( left it at home, for his wife to mak(! a hed
ouilt out of; whcreup(»n I)e M(jnts infornu'd the liader
that he was afraid he was prevaricating', for nolxjdy had
uutlutrity to issue such thing's, except \)v Monts the (ireat.
lie therefore imniediatidy seized the vessel and ;^((ods of
the trader for I'/hnj, and hy their s;>lc cnahled lumscdf to
carry out the Christian c<jl(»ny scheme, which, otherwise,
would have failed. He then sailed alonj; the coast
to the westwaid, and cajitured four more French
vessels that were en^'iij^'cd in trade, and wlit)se
i;a]>tains \vere unac(juainted with the license (|ue,s(i()n,
so, wilh tin' residts of the sjcils (apturcd from c<tntia-
haiid trade he hail acciimulalid (|uite a lillle pile, and planted
colonies riijlil ahmj^'thir cou.it : had the i'(»untry surveyed, dis-
covered a vein of iron ore, sent Imnie specimens and word to
his friejids that he had " struc^k it licli " " on a silver mine.''
His friends in 'lie old country suddenly found out that
they ln\cdliim 'iiimensely, and U'^^an to look up anecdotes
concerning,' his pni^^enitors and the status of their own
ndationship, and nund»ers of them found life unenduruhlo

FROM THK LAKES TO THE GULF.

170

SO far away, so they lotig«'(l to be near tlieir frieiul and in
the vieinity of liis .^ilccr ttiiuc ; hut after their arrival tliey
f(»un<l he was mistaken in tlie (luaUty of the material, for
the silver proved to l)e the shininf^ s])ecular iron, yet, found
on Ui^'hy Xeek. Then his relatives suddenly lost their
affection and all wanted " toj^o home," but De Monts(iuietly
left them in his new colony and went h(»nie himself, and
afterwards ri'turned, brinj,'in^ several more colonists and
also a I'iusfn'ctdhlf Liwyer by the name of L'lvscarbot, who
soon (juieted the murmurin«,'s of the former lot, by inform-
ing tliem that, if tlu^y returiufd, they would be sent to
the },'all(\ys, so \ut advised thi^m to devote their ener<(ieH
to th(! introduction of aj^'riculture and the importation
of donuistic animals. There is but little doubt that it was
from acts of viole;.. .e committed by such characters as De
Monts, ('artier, Poutrincourt and other.- who wert! the lirst
voyaj^'i'rs to Americwv, upon the nativ s, that they were
induced t,o cherish that spirit of retaliation that was aft^u'-
wards S(j tt;rribly manifesteil upon whole villages of I'^uro-
\H>nn settlers, w lien neither se\ n:)r age was spared from the
tomahawk and scalping koih'. In the year ltJ2r»,
Charli's I. reniiwed a patent formerly granted by .lames 1.,
in th(! year lt)2l, to Sir William Alexander, in Mhich he
gave away "all the C(tuntry fntm the St. Croix Ut the St.
Lawrence," including "the whole course of the St. Law-
rence to the (lulf of (Jalifornia," which included the whole
of Canada and the chief j)art "f the I'nited States. An
order of liaronets were created to luld jurisdiction over the
country, and they solemnly asseml)led on the castle hill
of Kdinburgh, Scothmd, to take legal possession and ruh-
over a world unknown. Another instance of the bounty of
a liV)eral monarch, .•jonic of the liaronets never even viaittid

180

CANADA ;

their jjosscssidtis that had l»oen so freely bestowed, hut
those who did come found th(i French ahcady in possession,
and not in the h;ast disposed to give up th(Mr possessions
peaceahly . From that on at dilfereiit times there was notliin"
hut jieriodic quarrelling and fighting U'tween the French
and Kngi'sh settlers, hut the French, with the aid of the
Priests, got a little ahead, for they ottered a ]»remium for
their men to marry with the Micimacs and other tribes of
Indians, and by a Frencihman marrying a s(juaw, and
an Indian a French woman, tlusy made their interests
mutual, and gained a savage ally in time of war, and also
produced a tril)e of mongrels who nisidc* in the Province
to this day. During tin; 17th century barbarities of the
most horril)le descrij)ti()n were practised upon the rival
settlers, ami when they could find no rivals to practice on
they turned upon their own liountrymen, after the style of
" Charnisse," of iVuiobscot, besieging Mailame Li Tour, on
the St. John, but that woman fought him gallantly, and it
was not until after several attacks iu diiferent years that
he was enabled to subdue the lirave little Dame.

The Province of New Brunswick extends nearly North
and South, and lies k'tweeu 4."/ f)' and 48'' liO' N. lat.,
and Iween <i3^ 50' and tiH'' W. long., forming sm iiTo-
gular [uan- in'tween Nova Scotia and (Janada. On the
north it is bounded by the liay Chaleurs and the (!ulf of
St. Lawrerice, which s(!parate it Inmi (iaspe; west by the
Restigoui'he river ; on the east it extimds ti» the (lulf ; a
Peninsula Joins it to Nova Sc^)tia on the .4outh-ea.st, ami it in
sejtaratx'd from that Province on th«! south by the Hay of
F'undy ; on the west it meets the State of Maine. It (nutains
some 2(i,(HtO .siiuare miles, and is proKibly the n. he.st in
minerals of the Lower Provinces. There is a gieat diver-

3d, but

session,
t!ssiou8
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FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

183

sity in the apfx^rancc of the l*n»viii(;o : the lands on the
wliole nortliern coast slope j^nulually down beneath the aeu ;
the water is p-nerally shallow, and aloni,' the ocean bor-
der there are hanks of sand and shin<,'le. The water in all
the river channels is deep enoii^'h to admit the larj^est
ships. On th<! nortluu'ii side or coast of (rasjte the
shores frecpiently present hold over-hanf,'in<,' clitl's. Along
the coast of the Hay of Kiindy there is a tract of hilly
country, l)iit few of which attain any considerable dejjjree
of elevati(Hi. The scenery is wild and picturesque ; bohl cliftV!
an<l ru^'j^'cd jirccipiiies, deep valleys, thecjuiet lake, iind the
dashiii;,' waterfall are oft^ presented at a sin<,de view ; the
f(jrests in summer timi; ajipcar like green waves rising above
each other. The north-eastern side from Bay Verte to
Bathurst ])resent8 a low and level surface, unbroken by

hills. Marshes, b

nils. iNlarslies, bottom lands and p«'at bogs are pecuhar to
this tract, and extend in a S \V. direction U) the river St,
J(jhn, and is the region (tf tluM-oal tields of New Brunswick)
covering an area of some o.OOO s(|uare miles. The (Jrand
Falls ol St. dohn are only stirpassed by the cataract of Nia-
gara, and are some 20(1 miles fr tm the mouth of tin; river.
Having its waters considerably increa.seil by its numerous
branches, the river sweejts thnmgh the country, and e.\j»ands
it.self into a InMutifid basin just above the cataract, but the
basin is suddeidy contrai^ted and, the river turning to ihe
south rushes into a dcej) rocky gorge; only 250 feet wide ; the
water falls into the gorge from the front and from each
side, and the river makes a lea]) of 58 feet over a jicrjiendi-
cular cliff. In the mist is .seen the rainbow, and clouds
of white spray iloat over the cataract, whilst the noise of
the wafer j)ouring over the rocks reminds one of Niagara
itself. The entire fall of the river at this point is some lib

»» "y

CANADA

feet. Tn the frcslicts of th(! a|)rinj,' l\w Itrokon ice for nmny
miles drifts down the river, and in the shallow water close
U{i an<l collect in enormous masses, forniin;^' what is called
an " ice Jam," and the jicnt-up water extends far and wide,
causing' a freshet that sweeps away cattle, hiiildin^'s and
everything' with'n its reach : lo^'s, trees and dw»dlin;,rs are

i(>rne alonu, am

I aid in forininu the nlistrnction, whilst the

inhaiiitants themselves, liavinji reached hi^dier ground, form
interesting' };rou|»sas washe(|-out families.

The suiface (tf New Ihunswick jtM'sents a confusion of
heteid^'eiieous sulislances, hut it will he found upon in-
S])eclion that not only the rocks hut the soils succeed each
other in rcLjular rotation or strata : the rock itself is lirst
seen jirniniding ihidu^h the soil or rising,' into mountiiin
ranges, yet the action of heat, fi'ost, moisture, and other
meteoric agents iii'e constantly reducing the flinty mass,
and fornung a leilile soil w hidi, if not letained on the
taltle lauds and slopes, is carried hy the torr^Mits down to
the Milleys to render them more favorahle for agri(;ultuial
purposes ; then come houlders and, succeeiling these, exten-
sive \>i-As of giiivel, sand and clay, ahove which the soil,
Vitiying in thickness, and dilVering only fiom the general
deposit heneath in heiug reduced to a liner state, and
hy containing remains of the vegetation that oni;e llourished
upon it. The soil derived from trap rock contains much
jiotash, and almost always produces hard wood, such as
beech, hirch, maple, oak, ash and hutternut. (Jranite
and syenite soil are als(» fav(»ritl)hf to those growths, hut
where there is a sutlicient depth of earth, and the land is
sandy, white and red jtine grow to a large; size; hut, owing
to the incursions and ndds nuide ujion the timl)er of the
province, in the course of a few years the sujijily will be

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Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

187

thoroughly exhausted. The people of New Brunswick claim
that their vegetables are the finest produced in America
and they certainly have some grounds for that belief,
although they have competitors in both Nova Scotia, Cape
Breton and Prince Edward Island ; but their potatoes are as
near perfection as can be found, and are both so delicious
in flavor and mealy to look upon that would make the
heart of an Irishman rejoice. Apples, turnips and hen fruit,
(or eggs) are produced in great varieties. Many may dispa-
rage the statements concerning the product of the fowl, but
it is so — there are over sixteen varieties of aigs produced in
this province.

The climate differs but little from the province of Lower
Canada; frost is seen some seven months in the year.
In the summer twilight is seen after nine o'clock in tha
evening, whilst daybreak occurs at two in the morning.
The aurora boiealis is very brilliant at all seasons. The
break-up usually occurs during April, and by May the weather
becomes settled. It is still in tradition that, after the
wizard was expelled from the Isle of Man, he came to New
Brunswick and brought with him his art of covering the
country with a fog in order to delude and befog his
enemies. The climate is a healthy one, and without a doctor
can get hold of a genuine Old Country patient, or invent
some new disease, he has a hard row to weed to get a
living. Most of the practitioners generally board around
like a school-master, and look out for chances, such as
broken legs and accidents to lumbermen or river drivers.

Whilst one of the industries, like that of Quebec, is the
making of maple sugar, from which occupation considerable
revenue is derived by the inhabitants, it might become a
source of profit, and quite health-giving for a company to

r
4

188

CANADA ;

form in order to invite young Englishmen and Americans
from the cities to take a trip to the province, in order to
shoot moose, carriboo and deer, or trap for bear and beaver.
There was a real Virginian deer seen here in 1818, and
the skins of the other animals are valuable when obtained.
Fishing, both lake and river, can be indulged in, with con-
siderable success. Salmon are plentiful in most rivers,
and rise freely at a proper fly, and will afford the angler
admirable sport. Trout are numerous in almost all streams,
and are taken by the children, with a baited hook, fas-
tened to a piece of twine on the end of a light pole. The best
fly to fish with is the red hackle, and the weight of the
fish is from a half pound to six pounds. The Tobique,
Aroostook, Miramichi, Nepisiquit, Upsalquitch, and Resti-
gouche are the best rivers for sport. Salt-water fislieries
have always been a source of revenue and income to the
province, but, through the enterprise and energy of the
Americans, the " Brunswickers " are being rapidly crowded
out, and their industry monopolized — mackerel, herring,
gaspereau and cod, being the chief kinds sought, and this
industry alone gives employment to some thousands of
men. The boats employed are well fitted, staunch and
sea- worthy, and on leaving are filled to the hatches with
salt, em I ties and provisions. Along the deck are empty
puncheons and casks, whilst for each man six mackerel
lines completely fitted, are attached to the stanchions in
the bulwarks. The hooks-used are about the size of salmon
hooks, with a jig or bright piece of metal, which in the
water, resembles the sepia. Nets are sometimes used.
When in with a " school " herring and other fish, pork,
old rags, red shirts, and other materials, are thrown into a
bait mill and ground up, the inside of the mill containing

'■\.t

'■:\»

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

189

he
3d.

a revolving set of "sharp knives, and the product, upon
being turned out, is something like putrid sausage meat —
this is called poheeganor squash — and, when signs are on, a
hogshead of this mixture is thrown overboard, and the
mackerel rise in shoalp, covering at times the surface of
the water for miles, and for hours afterwards all hands
are actively employed in hooking, jigging and drawing in
the fish. Then, all of a sudden, as if by magic, the fish
disappear, and the vessel has to move to new grounds.
The Americans have got the science of fishing down so
fine that they can come into the ports of the provinces, and
sell fish, at a profit to themselves, at less figures than a
native can afford to catch them for. The inhabitants of
the coasts and islands engage in the different employments
of agriculture, fishing and lumbering, therefore they can-
not devote their attention entirely to one pursuit.

In conclusion, I would advise the traveller to devote
some time in exploration of the province, for he will find
it both an interesting and instructive pursuit.

EDUCATION AND COMMERCE.

There is no doubt but that the various educational,
literary, historical and other societies and institutions, with
the museums, art and geological societies, have done more
in effecting a thorough reform in the habits of the people,
and of educating the masses to a better knowledge of them-
selves and their fellow men, than the outward followers of
the forms of Christianity are willing to acknowledge or ad-
mit, for where there is education amongst the masses and a
thorotigh knowledge of their fellows, there also is charity,
the greatest of the christian virtues, not in theory, but in
practice, and it is my humble opinion that were these insti-

c/ll

190

CANADA ;

V '

tutions more liberally encouraged and fostered in our midst,
the time would not be far distant when at least tluee-
fourtlis of the various preachers' services could be eo.sily
dispensed with, to the benefit and welfare of the entire
community, and the country at large. The fault has often
been laid to misrepresentation of the country that has
retarded its growth, and that the climate has been maligned,
that its severe and protracted winters have been thoroughly
exposed and ir-'iown up, and its summers have been quoted
for their intense heat, but with all that, they seem to have
lost sight of the fact that it is not the rigors of climate that
retard emigration and the peopling of the country, but the
excessive individualism of those already here, for whilst one
section of the community use every endeavor to build up
into a prosperous condition the country at large, the greater
portion, with men in power to aid them, seem to be
intent, for present gain or advantage, to pull down or render
subservient to their will the interests of the whole commu-
nity. It is only the education which these institutions can
afford that will become the medium of enlightening the
people, and remove far from them the narrow sectarianism
and jealousies that now exist. Amongst the earliest of these
various societies scattered now happily throughout the
Dominion was the Mechanics Institute of Montreal,
founded in the year 1828, at which time it was called the
Montreal Mechanics Institution, and confirmed under that
name until 1835. The present Institute was formed in 1845,
the corner stone of the building was laid some ten years
afterwards by the Hon. Mr. Justice Badgley, Q.C., and he
carried frills enough with the name to ensure success, for
he was M. P. P., Eight Wor. Prov. G. M. of F. & A. M.
of B. :5f. A.

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

191

Amongst

^uusm
these
It the
itreal,
id the
that
11845,
I years
[id he
iS, for
M.

those who earliest recognizod the henefit
of educating the masses in the most common-sense
way, we find the names of H. Buhner, G. W. Weaver, N.
B. CoTse, G. Cruikshank, R. Irwin, II. Munroe, I). Brown
and others, who have all heen actively and earnestly engaged
in benefiting their fellow men, and trying to implant in
the worker the feeling that he is a thinking and reasonable
being, and so far their efforts seem crowned with success,
for at the present time the library contains some 8707
volumes, whilst the circulation during the year 1880 was
some 14,296. Financially the effort is a success, doubtless in
part owing to the untiring zeal manifested by the Super-
intendent, Mr. S. M. Sansum, who has been actively en-
gaged in sufiplying mental food to his fellow men for a
period extending over nineteen years in the present Institute.
Whilst such institutions were gradually disseminating
knowledge amongst the communities in which they were
located, there were still another class of men who were
actively engaged in enlightening the countrymen generally
in the mysteries of trade, and giving on each visit some
insight into the mode of carrying on business in other sec-
tions, and these were the commercial travellers, a class that
the country in general owe considerable to, as an aid to its
prosperity. In 1873 the total value of imports of
the Dominion was some $68,522,776, whilst in 1877
it was but $39,572,239, being a falling off during those
years of $28,950,521, but with increased prosperity of
the South and West, and the activity displayed on
part of the merchants and their commercial representatives
throughout the country, the total imports for the year 1880
amounted to $86,489,747, showing an increase in three
years of $46,917,508, of which P. E. I. was credited with

192

CANADA ;

$200,462.49 ; Nova Scotia, $1,245,910. 42 ; New Bruns-
wick, $893,809.52; Ontario, $5,113,238.51 ; Quebec,
$6,048,621.57; Manitoba, $298,929.15 ; N. W. Terri-
tories, $21,856.38 ; and British Columbia, $455,986.70.
Whilst the total exports from the Dominion in 1873
amounted to $87,750,592, in 1877 the monetary value was
$70,907,303, which in 1880 had risen to $82,918,828, and
will,with an equal amount of energy displayed.by far exceed
those figures during the present year. Although each city
from the Lower to the Upper Provinces seems to send its
representatives to assist in procuring trade, still the spirit
evinced by some of them in the Lower Provinces, through
the medium of narrow and sectional legislation, seems to
be a despicable one, and shows that, although willing to
gain all for their own advancement, still they concede
nothing, and by these means encourage a system of rivalry
that cannot but be detrimental to their own interests in
the end ; — so it is that, in order to break up to some extent
the sectionalism, and to render interests mutual and for
the benefit of the whole country, the various C. T.
Associations have commenced to foster a spirit of liberality,
and, as these institutions are productive of considerable
good, we will notice some of their features. It is well
known that travelling men generally are a good-natured,
sociable set of men at home in any community and under
all circumstances in which they may find themselves placed,
sociable, generous sometimes even to a fault, with an eye
to business and the establishing of a good name and repu-
tation for the firm in whose employment they are. The
knowledge of these facts being soon known throughout
the country the unfortunate traveller becomes the victim of
every imposition that avarice or cupidity could suggest, or

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

193

•put in practice. Not only were impositions practised upon
these enterprising men throughout the country, but some
few men in whose employ they happened to b« (fortunately
so few in number as not to constitute a distinct class)
thought the seemingly happy and careless fellows legitimate
prey, and did not hesitate, under various guises, to appro-
priate the mere pittance promised their representative for
faithful service, thus at times forcing him to work for
nothing. Some of such employers were outwardly supposed
to be men of high social or moral status, but, having ac-
quired money, were willing yet to grovel amongst the
mud and ashes from whence they arose. With a view of
Temedying to some extent these evils and impositions, and
also to better protect the interests of the traveller as a class,
an association was formed in the year 1865 for the
furtherance of this object. Amongst the earliest workers
we find R. C. Simpson, now Secretary of the D. C. T. A.,
Montreal, R. Cuthbert, and others ; but it was not until the
year 1872 that the C. T. A. of Canada was thoroughly
formed or assumed any proportions. At that time Mr. War-
ring Kennedy was elected President, and Mr. J. Patterson
•Secretary, with two Vice-Presidents and a board of Direc-
tors, comprising twenty btisiuesa men throughout the
<jountry. The association, after their first meeting, secured
for the travelling community many of the advantages tliey
now enjoy, since which time assurance has been added and
rights enforced and protected. On the 22nd of February,
1875,the Dominion Commercial Travellers' Association was
organized, with a membersliip that year of but 227, but
has since grown to over 1000, holding a surplus fund to
its credit in the hands of its bankers of over $25,000.00,
which it is intended to use for benevolent purposes dan

194

M' CANADA ;

the protection of the interests of its members. This wasr
accumulated after covering each member with an accident
])ohcy for tlie protection of their families, wliich speaka.
well for excellent management of its affairs and the inter-
est taken in the work by its officers. The present officers
are: James A. Cantlie, President, a gentleman who has.
taken an active interest in the affairs of travelling men
since the year 1863 ; A.Gowdy, Vice-President ; R. C. Simp-
son, Secretary -Treasurer. The Dominion Association have
lately tested and won the St. John, N.B., license cases,
and are now actively engaged in testing the same tax at-
Quebec. Should they be fortunate enough to remove these
outward obstacles, and look a little closer into the affairs of
their members, they will find grievances yet to adjust that
will tjike some time, but they will receive the thanks of
the entire community that take "the road." There are
several soeieties now organized with the same objects in-'
view, and located both in Toronto, Hamilton, London and
Guelph, all of whom seek to welcome the stranger represent-
ing either a business house or a community. Manufacturers
or their representatives whilst visiting this country, whether
on business or pleasure, should call and identify themselves
with one or the other of these associations, for the informa-
tion they would receive regarding the business of the coun-
try would fully compensate them for a trip even across
the Atlantic to acquiie. In conclusion I would say that, to-
the energy and persistence of its travellers and business
men the Dominion and country dealer owe much, not
only for excellence of the goods brought to his very door
but for the enterprise in placing before the merchant in.
outlying districts European products and designs as soon,
as the goods were laid before the public on the other side,an(i

FKOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

Could I but pour out the neclar the goda only can,

I would till up my glasH to the brim,
And drink *he success of the travelling man.

And tlie house represented by him ;
And could I but tincture the glorious draught

With his smilep, as I drank to him then,
And the joken he has told, and the laughs he has laughed,,

I would fill up the goblet again —

And drink to the sweetheart who gave him good-bye

With a tenderness thrilling hini this
Very hour, as he thinks of the tear in her eye

That salted the sweet of her kiss ;
To her truest of hearts and her fairest of hands

I would drink, with all serious prayern,
Since the heart she must trust is a travelling man's.

And as warm as the ulster he wears.

I would drink to the wife, with the babe on her knee.

That awaits his returning in vain —
Who breaks his brief letters so tremulously,

And reads them again and again t
And I'd drink to the feeble old mother who sits

At the warm fireside of her son,
And murmurs and weeps o'er the stockings she knits,.

As she thinks of the wandering one.

I would drink a long life and a health to the friends

Who have met him with smiles and with cheer —
To the generous hand that the stranger extends

To the wayfarer journeying here.
And at last, when he turns from this eartlily abode,

And pays the lastfare that he can,
Mine Host of the Inn at the end of the road

Will welcome the travelling man 1

19G

"'g'lMW i g ^ f II HUH K

19(3

CANADA ;

, , FINISH.

Regarding the apparent future of the Dominion but few
words will suffice. This is but one Continent from the
*' Pole to Panama," then why should not interests be mutual,
and the inhabitants brothers, let their residence be above the
Lake of the Woods or below the table lands of Mexico.
Whether Canada annexes the United States, or in time l)e-
•comes a part and parcel of tiie country where so many Can-
adians have found a welcome and a home, would make but
little difference to the people at large.and the amalgamation of
interests would but be opposed by the politicians, who are,
all over the Continent, each year losing more and more
of the feeble hold and sway they have over the minds of
the people, who are generally beginning to think and act
independently and in accordance with their own idea.s, in
the interests of the whole country, instead of confining them-
selves to petty and sectional jealousies. But a short tirr-e
since that despicable spirit was dominant, the Eastern Pro-
vinces would almost " Boycott " Quebec, whilst Ontario
declared it her duty to form the friendships whereby she
was most benefited, and opposed and hated Quebec, which
hatred is generously returned ; whilst Columbia declared that
if she was too much governed by the East she would
. secede, and so leave the barren Eastern Provinces to their
fate. These jealousies, although, as the North West settles
up, each year will assume greater portions, and, from a mild
murmur at first, will in time cause serious and bitter trouble
all along the border, for the people will hardly have the
meekness of the old-time Lowlander to allow the " Picts"
and " Scots " to invade and despoil at their pleasure. The
countries are one in land, but the people are the opposites in
•character. When the Canadian or European crosses the

• .

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

197

border he is made to feel that he is welcome, and urged to.
l>ecome a citizen, but when the stranger arrives in Canada
he is literally frozen out, even the religious community,
joining in the belief that, to assist the new comer to obtain a
foot-hold, would not be " business," for fear he would become
independent l)oth in thought and action.

It is somewhat remarkable to notice how closely in all
respects the lands of the far North West resemble those of
the far South on the Northern Continent of America, oi.
the country bordering on the Arctic circle becomes a coun-
terpart of that portion lying near the etjuator. The same
barren stretches of everlasting sand; the tangled cypress >
undergrowths and swamps, amid whose precincts frogs;
abound in myriads and keep up a continuous concert: some*
emit sounds like hammering on thin tin, others seem tC'.r
mimic the hoot of the owl, others squeak, whilst above all',
the hoarse basso prof undo of the genuine bullfrog makes
itself heard, and lets folks know " he's thar." They and the
wild fowl that frequent the locality in the spring and fall
with the squirrels, and seem to be the only denizens of these
vast tracts, the knotted everglades, the strips of fertile
and productive soil, with the salt marshes and salt springs-,
that at some future time will, no doubt, become a source
of revenue, and with the assistance of Artesian wells (should
pure and drinkable water be found in their vicinity) may
become the means of attracting quite a little community
of settlers for the development of the iudustry of salt,
evaporation and export. The mountain ranges and broken-
ground all have their fac-similes above lat. 50° N., and
below lat, 34*^. N., therefore the commercial interests-,
of both these extreme sections are to all intend ^ and
purposes identical; the seasons in the southern portions.

f'H' '•

198

CANADA ;

being neither so severe, nor yet so limited in duration,
although more prone to enervating fevers, than those of the
far North, but where frost is seen almost every night in the
year, and ice forms in August, the constitution and frame
must be one of iron in order to withstand its rigors. It
will therefore become a matter for deep and earnest thought
and consideration to the intendent citizen, whether he be
from the provinces or from the older countries, to fully
'determine how and where to select his place of destination,
for a mistake at the start to a man of family may be fatal
to the energies of a lifetime ; therefore very little heed should
be paid to the agents of large corporations, who for the most
part have little interest in promoting the welfare of the
new comer, and whose chief aims are to get settlers located
on the lands represented by themselves, and to receive
their salary and commission, sometimes earning it at the
expense of the lifetime happiness of those whom they
have induced to come. That the older countries and
Canada are to attempt a governmental organized system of
emigration," in order to colonize the far west with perma-
nent settlers, seems to be a conceded fact, but after offer-
ing, perhaps, superior inducements for a while, whether the
Bureau will not degenerate into a mere political machine,
yet remains to be seen. It is therefore probably far tlie
best course to pursue in determining a location, to obtain
and act upon advice from parties directly residing in the
•district desired, and to rely more thoroughly on the state-
ments of extensive property owners, who at once become
neighbors, and who represent the interests of the whole
community. Should the citizens of the upper and lower
provinces become more liberal in their views on the
^encouragement, and welcome the new arrival to a home in

FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF.

199

their respective provinces, no doubt it would not only re-
'dound to the benefit of the community, but assist materially
in adding to the wealth of the province itself; whilst on the
other hand citizens leaving the older portions for the West
would at once be climated, and with a knowledge of the
obstacles to be met and overcome. In many portions of
New Brunswick, Quebec, along the banks of the St. Law-
rence and the Ottawa rivers, and in the province of Ontario
are opportunities offered to the settler and investor which
.in many respects are unrivaled, but a spirit of pride in
"being an American will have to be first evinced, and the
spirit of jealousy and sectionalism obliterated, before any
.great influx of either capital or labor can be induced to
assist in building up the prosperity of a section, or in
working altogether in the interests of the country.

It was the intention to include some anecdotes on the
freaks of Canadian justice, some of the beauties of the
mercantile and other systems of agencies, together with
.some of the idiosyncrasies of their public characters, but
wait until better accquaintance enables me to speak with
^accuracy and having the notes. I would say to my readers
that, should they be pleased with this effort don't laugh
Aloud, until you read " Canada and its Servants, " or Public
men vs. the Country. The book will be published this
Tall (D. V.)

r.'t('

THE CONTIMEKT

Hi'"'-

fAT'it;( BUKWA

'■'A ,15V

FROM THE POLE TO PANAMA.

201

CAMPBELL'S

MMm

Still maintains its high reputation as a faithful prepara-
tion of Quinine, combined with pure wine and vegetable
aromatics.

IT HAS BEEN PEOVED AN INVALUABLE EEMEDY

# IN CASES OF

LOSS OF APPETITE,

DYSPEPSIA,

LOWNESS OF SPIRITS,

INDIGESTION'

and for the prevention of malarial diseases in low-lying
and agueish parts of the country. Many poor and cheap
imitations are in the market, but the above is the original
and genuine, having had a steadily increasing sale for
more than twelve years.

IT MAY BE HAD AT
-^ AND ITS BRANCHES :

Phillips SquARE ^ Windsor^ Motel;

AND WHOLESALE FROM

Kenneth Campbell & Co.^

134 St* Francois Xavier Sty

MONTREAL.

r4,

202

•■.,11 ' ,i(

OOMINION LINE OF STEAMSHIPS

Eunning in Connection with the
aBAND TRUNK RAILWAY OF CANADA.

Company's Fleet.

Sabnia 3,850

Brooklyn 3,575

Toronto 3,284

Dominion 3,175

Tbutonia 2,700

QPBBBC 2,600

Company's Fleet.

Obboon 3,850

montrkal 3,284

Ontario 3,175

Tbias 2,750

Mississippi 2,600

St. L0DI8 2,000

Sailing between Liverpool, Quebec and Montreal in Summer, and
Liverpool, Halifax and Portland, in winter, calling at Belfast on the
passage from LiTerpool.

Cabin Passage Tickets $50.00

Return 90.00

Steerage Passage Tickets from Liverpool 24.00

Children under 12 years, Half Fare ; under 1 year Free.
PREPAID STEERAGE CERTIFICATES
To bring passengers from principal points in Great Britain, Ireland, and
all parts of Europe, to any important Railway Station in Canada, dr the
United States, at the Lowest possible Rates.

Through Tickets can be had at all the principal Grand Trunk RiUlway
Ticket Offices in Canada, and through Bills of Lading are granted to and
from all parts of Canada.

For Passage Tickets or Rates of Freight

Apply in Liverpool to Messrs. Flinn, Main & Montgomery, Managing
Director, 24 James St. ; ia Lon- don, Gracie & Hunter, 96 Leadenhall St. ;
in Belfast, Henry Gowan, 29 Donegal! Quay ; in Queenstown, John Daw-
son & Co. ; in Glasgow, Robert Duncan & Co, 97 Union St. ; in Lon-
donderry, Frederick Dawson, 42 Foyle St. ; in Bristol, John Andersont
146 Victoria St. ; in Cardiff, Richard Benjatoin, 14 Trinity St. ; in
Toronto, G. W. Torrance, 65 Front St. East ; in Quebec, W. M. Mac
pherson, Peter St. ; or to any Grand Trunk Railway Agent.

David Torrance Sl Co.,

GENERAL AGENTS,

8 HOSPITAL ST., MONTREAL.

203
THE MOST HOMELIKE, COMFORTABLE

AND WELL APPOINTED HOTEL IN THE DOMINION,

The St. Lawrence Hall

3,850
3,284
3,175
2,750
2,600
2.000
, and

laRing

U St. ;

Daw-

i LoB-

ersoni

; in
Mac-

;al.

ST.

I^AWnSKdK BAt.1..

HEITRT EOQAir, FROFEIETOP,
St. James Street, Montreal, F.Q., Canada.

For Merchants, Travellers and Business Men, this noted Hotel is most
admirably situated, next to the Banks, Post Office, and within a block to
the " Notre Dame .thedral ". Whilst for Summer Travellers and Tou-
rists the view from its roof, windows and verandahs lays the whole citj
«nd the majestic St. Lawrence river at their feet, with the famed Mount
Royal as a relief.

In former days this hotel was preferred by Royalty, and since the
acquirement of the property by Mr. Hocran the hotel has been put into
thorough order, and every improvement that skill can suggest added.

Its musical and parlor entertainments, together with the excellence of
its cuisine, make it the favorite with all.

Mr. Sam. Montgomery, well and favorably known in the West, takes
the entire management, so visitors, whether from Europe or California
Labrador or Texas, are assured of a thorough and hearty welcome.

CHARGES MODERATE.

Special arrangements for families and visitors remaining
,., • bu the month.

-'•^- PROPRIETOR.

Intending visitors from Europe should send Postal Card bejfore sailing,
to ensure being met on arrival, and all difficulties regarding baggage,
.etc., will be attended to.

I'..

204

VISITORS kHD TRiVCUERS,

Whether from the United States or Europe, should not fail^
wliilst in Montreal, to call at the old stand of

S^W«f«WM#@«

ii^

Corner Notre Dame & Peter streets,

••■>V h'M'-i n'li'' 1

MONTREAL, CANADA.

MANUFACTURERS OF

OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS.

Have constantly in stock and on hand

Coat8> Saqnes, Fur- Lined Circulars, Caps, Qanntlets and
......,,.__ , Fancy Bobes.

Visitors should bear in mind that this is the cheapest market
in which to purchase furs, &c., in the Dominion of Canada.

Orders received both from home and abroad, and entire satis-
faction guaranteed.

R. W. COWAN & CO.,

MONTREAL

205

>t failr

eets,

'Ut5,

and

larket
satis-

LEAU

■mauii.

CANADA SHIPPING COMPANY.

(Running in Connection with the Grand Trunk
Railway of Canada.)

This Line is composed of the following First Glass Clyde-built Iron
Steamships, built in Water tight Compartments, and unsurpassed for
strength and comfort :

Lake Huron, 4,100 tons Capt.

Lake Winnipeg, 3,300 tons Capt. W. Bkrmsom.

Lake Manitoba, 3,300 tons Capt. G. B. Scott.

Lake Champlain, 2,300 tons Capt. W. Stbwart.

Lake Nepigon, 2,300 tons Capl. H. Campbell.

The Steamships of this Line are all of large carrying capaoity, will
insure at lowest current rates, hare superior accommodation for passengers
and will sail from Liverpool for Quebec and Montreal every THURSDAY,
aad from Montreal for Liverpool every WEDNESDAY.

RATES OF PASSAGE.

C A BLV.— Montreal to Liverpool $50.00, return $9000.
^ STEERAGE.— At lowest current rates.

Through Bills of Lading and Tickets are issued to and from all parts
of Canada and the Western States.

For Freight and other particulars apply in Liverpool to the Canada
Shipping Co , 21 Water St., in Glasgow to P. Rixtoul, Son k Co. ; in
London, to R Mo-vtoombiue, 82 Mark Lane ; ia Caaada at al I the Offices
^f the Grand Trunk Ry., or to

THOMPSON, MURRAY AGO.,

1 CUSTOM HOUSE SQUARE,

niONTREAIi.

^1'

206

s-^;^£^«M«^<«,-«i». j^svvB^H*'

X » «Jw..,.-

SHERBROOKE, P.Q.

Proprietor.

." This hotel, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Magog,
and St. Francis rivers, is one of the finest and best conducted
hotels in the Eastern Tonwships, is also in the centre of business
and in close proximity to the Post Office, Banks and City Hall.

For Summer tourists and visitors generally it has advan-
tages that few hotels in the Dominion can offer.

The view of the Falls from its balconies, and the murmuring
of the rapids, which in the course of half a mile fall some 119
feet, both surprise and please the visitor, and create a feeling of
forgetfulness in the mind that is not soon obliterated, and aid in
making this a most desirable house in which to sojourn.

Commercial travellers always welcome. Good sample

rooms and special facilities offered.

' . ' t~j

Special rates by the month.

Free Omnibuses meet all trains on arrival.

Lirery in connection.

207

ii.

:or,

Magog,
iucted
asiness
i Hall,
advan-

muring
le 119
:ling of
aid in

sample

GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY.

THE GREAT

INTERIATIOIil ROUTE

BETWEEN THE

ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC.

THK^OTJO-H TIOKIETS

TO AND FROM
QIJEBBC, PORTIiAND,

NEW YORK.

nONTRBAL,

BOSTON, KINGSTON, GUBLPH. TORONTO,

SARNIA, LONDON, DETROIT,

CHICAGO, TEXAS, KANSAS, and SAN PRANCISCO*^

AND THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORIES.

Close Connection made at Chicago, Detroit and Buffalo for varioue
routes to the East and West, also via Montreal and the
Victoria Bridge for Eastern States and
. Lower Provinces.

BLEOANT DINING CARS ARE RUN ON THIS ROUTE.

NO CHANGE VIA THIS ROUTE

BETWEEN MONTREAL AND CHICAGO.

THE ONLY LINE RCNNING

Pullman Palace Drawing Room and Sleeping Cars

Through to Chicago, without change.

The Great Excursion Route during the Summer season in connectioo
with the Richelieu and Ontario Line of Steamers from

NIAGARA FALLS,

Or Kin^^ston down the Far-Famed St. Lawrence Rapids, passinff the Vic
toria Bridge fur Montreal, Quebec, th« Saguenay, Wnite Mountains, Lakes
Champlain and George, and the Hudssn River to New York.

Passengers to Manitoba and the North-West Territories, via Sarnia and
the Lakes, sr via Chicago and Milwaukee, also for all points in Michigan,
Wisconsin, Minnesota, Illinois, Indiana, Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, Texas,
and the Pacific Coast, will find this the most pleasant and direct route.
Every facility afforded for through tickets at the most favorable fares.

BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH.

Steel Rails, First-CIasB Rolling Stock, Courteous Employees, and every
facility afforded.

W. 'WAIN'WRiaHT,

Qenl. Pms. Agent, Montreal.

JOSEPH HICK80N,

General Manager.

,.*:

'¥

11 ■ ■■%

■t

208

SEIIiTID FOI?/ Su^nv^I^LES

1 «»» ■

For sale by all dealers in Leather and Findings, Hardware, and Boots and Slices.

tSfOnly reqaires three lizes for all heiKhts of heels for Men's, Boys' and Ladies
Boots and Shoes.
Ne. 1 is used only on Ladies' and Children's Shoes, or low Shoe Heels.

iyNo.2 IS THK SIZE MOSTLY USED, AND MEETS THE DEMAND OF
NEARLY ALL HEIGHTS OF HEELS ON MEN'S AND BOYS' BOOTS.
No. 8 is used only on Extremely High Heels.

T. €. moss.

Sole Manufr.cturer ;

SUFEBIOB TO ALL OTHEBS i

■ FOR THE FOLLOWING REASONS :

First.— It has double the support on the top where the pressure oomes on the
'Counter in walking.

Second.— It has a long screw slot, to admit of placing the screw in the centre of
any of the lifts in the heel, instead of between tnem, where a simple screw hole
would compel them to be placed.

Third.— It does away with the necessity of dealers keeping six or eight sizes in
order to supply the demand for the different heights of heels.

Fourth.— A very important feature of this support is the FLANGE which ex-
tends under the bottom of the heel, and iiistens down through it, therpby making it
impossible to become loose by rough use. When the flange is entirely worn off oy
long use, the support may still be h«ld firmly in its place oy placing another screw
in the bottom of the screw-slol.

«AIIIPI«E BOXES seat to the Trade on Receipt of ONE DOL-
LAR* Oood OUconnts Klven to the Wholesale Trade.
';^ Crlre them a Trial, and I am sure yon will n«e ao
^' other support. Address all orders to

SEND FOR PRICE LIST. T. C. MOSS, Windsor, Out.

Htitt ttti

- MANUFACTURED BY -

T. C. H088, WIIB80R, OHT. '

Warranted to keep the

COUNTERS AND HEELS OF BOOTS AND SHOES

FROM RUNNING 0]/ER,
i. \NILL NOT COME LOOSE BY WEARING.

209

ID OF

:lurer?

on the

antre of
hole

sizes in

iDOL-

le.

Ont.

OTTAWA

THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT OF THE DOMINION.

Travellers, Tourists and Canadians

Generally should remember that the famed Russell House
is now undergoing extensive alterations, and when the new
addition is complete will be one of the most

RECHERCHE HOUSES IN IHE DOMINION,

Fitted with every improvement that Art or Science can suggest^
making it at .once the most desirable and most comfortable in
Canada

Cool, Neat and Comfortable Booms-
COISINE THE BESTTBE COONTRY AFFORD,

Whilst ite appointments are strictly firat-cloBB,

A Genial Host, who anticipates the wants and needs

of its guests.

In <. iDse proximity to the Houses of Parliament and Business
Centres of the city.

LOVELY DBIVSS> FINE SCENSB7, AND GOOD aBOUNDS
FOB BECBEATION, NEAB AT HANS.

An excellent Livery in connection with the Hotel.

J. A. GOUIN.

Proprietor.

No inconvenience to guests whilst improvements are being
added. International Postal Cards will always receive prom ft
attention.

rt V

']^altttt^a'$ ^taitt(a)!il ^ooilt.

lit . ' . 1

i.li4 ,)r A

t',, i IJ ■'!...■

. .I .'"i n

^'OLIWKA'S IMPERIAL BORAX

IS GOOD FOR

WASHING AND STARCHING, BATHING and SHAMPOOING, ROUGH

PACE AND CHAPPED HANDS. CLEANING THE TRBTH, CLEAN-

ING HAIR BRUSHES, DRESSING ULCERS, CUTS, WOUNDS,

80RRS of any kind, Bruises, Abrasion of the skin, Piles, Sore Nipples, Ac,

SORB MOUTHS— Gum Itoils, Thrush, Hoarseness, Dryness in the Mouth,

DISINFECTING PURPOSES, ARRESTING FERMENTATION,

REMOVING COCKROACHES, Ants and other Vermin, PREVENTING

M0TH8, REMOVING STAINS from Marble. WASHING WINDOWS,

4/ ^.u„w ..iMILK CANS, GREASV DISHES, Ac, Ac,

jui. ; .! ( fr,.y it a^^^i |,g Convinced!

Ask your Grocer or Chemist for

^ ., POLIWKA»S IMPERIAL BORAX,

»nd don't allow other doubtful makes to be palmed off on you. If yoar
Orooer or Cbemiat do not keep it, please give them our address, and oiblige
;/vri rnn 'i.i' . Your owdLeut Servants,

' :, , v ! EMIL POLIWKA A CO.,

32 34 A 36 ST. S ACRAMENT STREET, MONTREAL.

POLIWKA'S IMPERIAL BORAX,

Is now widely known all through Canada, and a Staple

. .. .'I . ,.■. Article with Grocers and Druggists.

This most important Household article, whose excellent q[ualitiea were
«onl|>aratively unknown to the public at large until it was introduced by
the undersigned, has now found its way into thousands of Canadian homes,
and those who bare used it will not do without it, as it soon sares its cost
in many ways.

».

JOH
N-

, ke.,
ih,

your
blige

aple

were
jdbj
>mes,
cost

211

Pulrerited Boras if often Adulterated with alum, sair or other iom«
clients. The underBl^ned hag called his Borax " Impirial/' as it is the beat
Kmolibh Borax which can be produced^— better than most American
•makes, and to assure the public that it is buying a pure article, ho baa
bad it analysed by Dr. John Bakir Bdwardh, Public Analyst, whose cer-
tificate reads :

I hereby certify that I hare analysed the Imperial Borax as imported ia
■crystals, as ground in bulk, and, also, as put up in packages by Bmil
Poliwka, and I find the same to be will RiriNin and i'ukr Borax, and
well adapted for the rarioua purposes for which it is recommended.

(Signed,) John Bakir Eoward», Ph.D., D.C.L.,
Pro/emor Practical C/umittry, If.B.C , and

Public Analytt, HotUretU.
I Montreal, May 10, 1878.

The high price at which Powdered Borax has been formerly gold, hag
kept it from coming into general use, but since the Imperial Borax has
entered the Canadian market, it hag come within the reach of all.

12 OB. packages retail at 26 Gents.

6 " " 16 *'

And to give those who are unacquainted with the article au opportunity to
try it, there are sample packages retailing at 5 cents, so that no one need
be without it.

Full direelionx in Englith and French are enclosed in each package, r

ITS USES.

Two ounces of the Iupbrial Borax will go further as a cleansing and
bleaching agent than one pound of soda, ammonia, or washing powder,
and it does not in the slightest degree injure any texture of cloth, which is
a striking contrast to the affecta of ammonia and some other detergenta
furnished by the Trade.

Having for many years sold Gelatine in bulk and in one pound pack-
ages, we have often been asked by the Grocery Trade why we did not give
the Public a Gelatine in a more convenient shape, of say one and two ounce
packages. Seeing that there was an increaging demand for'theae goods,
we have set to work to get up a Gklatine which in quality is equal to, and
in style and get up handsomer than, anything in the market. We trust
that our efforts will be crowned with succesa, and that

t«

l»

.^»''

will indeed become a favorite Gelatine with the Public.

We are at present putting up two sizes, " one quart,' ' and " two quarts,' '
and two styles, " Ground " and m " Shreds." Our wrappers will be uniform
in get up, only the sides of the packages will difibr m having the words
"Gronnd," and "In Shreds" plainly printed on them. The "Ground"
will be preferred by many on account of its dissolving quicker than the other. ' .

ASK YOUR GROCER FOR IT I ""►

T^W

h l^

212

.:m

i- V

THE MES8EN6EB

The facilities now possessed by Thb NescEnger Office for

the execution of

'"Book kud Jot) f^fintin^

ARE UNSURPASSED.

^1 *; Vi ^' i V j<i

AND AN ABUNDANT SUPPLY OP

Enable as to promptly £11 all orders.

^^ M^^^^^d^^

Is published every Friday Morning at Si .20 a- year,

in advance.

HaTing the largAit amoant of Reading matter in the Counties, and »
rery heavy circulation among the beat classes, it affords an excellent
adrertiaing medium, terms for which are low. For local news of the
district it cannot be surpassed.

C. J. HYNES, Publisher.
Preseott, Ont , Canada.

STORE.

DRUG

EAGLE BLOCK,

■Q^Prescriptions carefully compounded fh>ni Pare Drugs, at moderate
prices. Surgical Instruments and Books supplied. Our Order departmenf
includes erery thing in our line, and receives close attention.

GHABLE8 J. HTNB§,

48 Ford Street, Eagle Block. Pruprietor,

Ogdensburg, New York, U.S.

And »
ellent
bf the

her.

lerate

Imenf

lietor.

213
THE

CREAT WESTERI RilLWAT

IS TBI

MOST DIRECT ROUTE FROM CANADA

MI Points in tbe Eastern and Western States,

AND TBI

FOPULAB HianWAT TO MANITOBA

AMD THl

North West Territories.

ffixperieneed Agents sent in charge of large parties to attend to passing and
clearing of passengers' efFecta through Customs.

Passengers ftcji Europe ria New York h«ye an opportanity of viewing
from Qreat Western Railway trains the world, famed

Falls of Niagara.

Through Palace Sleeping Gar between Boston, New York, Rochester,

Detroit and Chicago, and elegant dar Coaches and Sleeping

Cars between Suspension Bridge and Chicago.

LUXURIOUS TRAVELLING.

Dining Gars replete with all the delicacies of the season are attached to
Atlantic and Pacific Express trains and run daily between

SUSPENSION BRIDGE AND CHICAGO.

Passengers taking this route hare choice of the Rail Lines ria Chicago,
'the old and reliable Detroit Grand Haren and Milwaukee ria Grand Harea,
•crossing Lake Michigan in the new and commodious side wheel steamer,
^'CiTT or MiLWACKia," or the boat lines learitig Sarnia, Southampton and
-Kincardine during season of Narigation.

RATES THE VERY LOWEST.

For Time Tables. Ac., apply to Company's Station Masters and Agents,
who will furnish fullest iniormation.

lOr Don't forget to see that your ticket reads ria the Great Western
•Railway.

T^M. BDOAit, F. BROUOHTON,

Oen. Pans. Agt Gen. Manager.

mmm

iffi'^.f

214

7HE QUEEN'S, TORONTa.

McGfAW & WINNETT, PnoFEiETORS^

The " Queen's " is the most comfortable and
Recherche Hotel in the Dominion. Overlooking
the Lake it commands a beautiful view of To-
ronto Bay and Lake Ontario. It is elegantly fur-
nished throughout. Rooms en suite with bath
rooms attached. All its

APPOINTMENTS ARE STRICTLY FIRST-CLASS.

The Hotel has been patronized by Royalty
on each visit from 1871, when it was selected by
His Imperial Highness the Grand Duke Alexis
and suite.

It was the favorite of His Excellency the
Earl of Dufferin, K. P., Governor General of Can-
ada, and the Countess of Dufferin, on their visits
to Toronto.

His Excellency the Marquis of Lome and
Princess Louise with Prince Leopold and suite
invariably honor the Hotel with their presence
while in the City.

Spacious and Airy Grounds with Chevalerie
and Croquet Lawns, &c.

215

ST. LAWRENCE

ENGINE WORKS,

BASIN No. 2, LACHINE CANAL,

AND 17 TO 99 MILL STREET, MONTREAL,

W- P- BARTLEY & CO-.

PROPRIETORS.

Builders of Steam Engines and Boilers, Ho-
rizontal High Pressure Engines, Condensing
Engines, Compound Engines of great economy.
Any of the aborcj^suitable for factories, Screw
Propellers or Paddle Steamers.

The best heavy

Castings for

Engine Work,

Work er

A r c h i-
tectura '
purpo-

Seii:.

ine

SPECIALTIES.

Shafting with Charlton's Patent Internal Clanap Couplings. Turbine
Water Wheels of the most improved class for efficiency and gre»t power.
Tery superior Propeller Screws. Yacht Engines and Boilers. Dredge-
Machinery and Railway Excavators. Iron Bridges and every deBcription oi
Contractor's Plant.

SEND FOB CmCXTLARS.

"pT

Si'i

„,„;.r><.: t

^^i

216

f Ii« Qadini's Royal,

HOOAW & WnnTETT,

PAOPBIETOBS

The moat delig^htful lummer resort on the borders of the Lake, aitnated
in the qaaint old fashioned Tillage of Niagara.

QUIET AND PEACEFUL SURROUNDINGS
away from the bustle of the world,

Oood Fishing, Yachting, Fine Drives and Pleasant
Bambles can be indulged in.

Pamilief and others wishing a pleaaant summer residence cannot select
» more desirable locality.

TECUMSEH HOUSE

McGaw Winnett & Moore,

«^ v proprietors.

THE FINEST HOTEL in WESTERN ONTARIO.
Excellent Accommodation for

TRAVELLERS AND COMMERCIAL MEH.

FIRST-CLASS IN EVERT RESPECT.

M^ Lirerj attached to the House.

217

LIO.

J! S. HiHILTOI & CO?

MONTREAL.

;■)(?:

HAMILTON, DUNLOP & CO.,

IIs^IPOI^TEie^S OIF, .,^

Pine BrandieS'

Champagnes*

SurgundieS)

EockS' Moselle and

Light Winea.

Boll and Duelop Gin> Bass & Co.'s Pale Ale-
Goods Sold either in Bond or Duty Paid.

Sole Agents for Pelee Island "Wines. The best nittive
«till Wines from Vin "Villa Vineyards.

Native Sparkling Wines, Sans Pabeil and Le Diamand .

Tt^^ Orders from a distance promptly attended to.

APPOLINARIS AND OTHER NATURAL MINERAL

WATERS.

XK)LE AQSNT FOB TUBNSBS BIPTSBS. :

J. S. HAMILTON & CO ,

St. Sacrament Street,

MOMTRBAIi.

218

l':^-J:

OTTAWA RIVER NAYI6ATI0N CO.

S'V

MAIL LINE DAY STEAMERS

BETWKEK

MONTREAL AND OTTAWA.

Picturesque Scenery. Well-appointed Steamers.

Favorite Route for Tourists.

steamer for OTTAWA leaver Lachine on arrival of train which teaves Bonaven-
tiire Depot at 7 a. m. daily. Fare from Montreal 1st Claw, $2.50 ; return, S4.00.

Tliifl Is the mdkt direct of any route for Paggengers totheCelebiated Caledonia
Springs.

Steamer leaves Queen's wharf, OTTAWA, daily, at 7 a.m., with passengers for
Montreal,

RUNNING THE LACHINE RAPIDS.

Short Excursions from Montreal retnming Down the Bapids

(In the Cool of the Erening.)

To ST. ANNE'S by train at 9 30 a.m. or 12.30 p.m. daily (and 2 p.m. on Satur-
days) returning by Steamer at 4 p.m. Fare for round trip, 80 cents.

ToCABILLON 50 miles up the river Ottawa, beautifully situated at foot of
Rapids. Talce Tarn, train for LacMne, to connect with Steamers, arriving in
M entreat about 6 20 p . m . Fare for roun d trip from Montreal $ 1 .26 Saturdays 91 .00.

To LACHINE by 6 p.m. train, HOME by the RAPIDS, fare for round trip 50 cts.

To OTTAWA by Rail, returning next day by Rail or Steamer, this allowing half
day to visit the Parliament Buiidingii, Jkc. "Tickots for sale at Rai) way Offices.
Hotels and Company's Office, 13 Bonaventure St., Montreal ; R. C. W. MacCuaig's
Office Sparks street and Queen Wharf, Ottawa.

B. W. SHRPHEBD.

> I

> *

219

J. B. Cartwright & Co.y

IMPORTERS OF

High Class Wines and Spirits, &c.,&c.,

416 ST. PAUL STREET, MONTREAL

VISITORS AND TOURISTS

Should remember that the duties on

European Fine Wines and Li|nors in Canada

are but one half the amount paid to the U. S Therefore whilst in Mon-
treal, do not fail to inspect the fine assortment of goods kept by the above
well-known house. Our list comprises the

Best Brands of Sherries,

Bordeaux Forts,

CSiampagnes,

Moselles,

Hocks>.
BURGUNDIES, LIQUEURS, &c., «cc.

m*-^-*^

Acting as Sole Agents for Quf.tton St. George dr» Co., we are enabled
to place before the public the choicest and best selections
from the European markets.

SOLE AGENTS FOR
Ind Coope & Co., Burton Ales, Qlencoe Scotch Whiskey,.
Bethesda Mineral Water, &c., &c.

Travellers and Summer Visitors

"Will find -we aim to please. Our stock is of the-
best, "Whilst the choice of selection is in tho-
roughly competent hands.

J. B. CABTWRIGHT & CO.

mwp

VISITORS FROM THE

Froms, UiM States, tie North West or lirope,

Should bear in mind that Clothing is far cheaper and of better qualitj in
the City of Montreal than any other Oitj in the Dominion, therefor*
whilit in Montreal, do not fail to riait

a
at ^

Oar Cutters aro not excelled by any in the Land, whilst our

Styles and Fit are as near perfection as Art

can render them.

We want but a few moments' nutice to tranamografj the new arrival
into a thorough Oaiadian to all appearance, owing to the compIetene«i of
oui^.feady-mMe stock.

OUB SPECIALTIES ARE

Men's-ready made Clothing, Suits from $6.00 or £1 upward.

Youths' and Boys' Clothes <' " %2A0 or £0 10 "

Gtonta' Furnishings, Hats and Caps. Newest Fashions.

Portmanteaux and Valises.

Shirts from 25c upwards. Suits made to ord^r from $9.00.

To our Western friends and customers from a distance we would state
that all orders by Mail are promptly attended to, and goods retnrned by
iBzpresa in the shortest possible time.

I. A. BEAUVAI8 A CO.,

186 and 188 St. Joseph Street,

MONTRKAL, CANADA.

221 ,.

PUBLISHED BY j'.r.fW

ST. JAMES STREET, MONTREAL.

Dawson's Tourist's Map of the Dominion of Canada ; Show
in)C all the Railways cotiBtructed or proposed. In pocket form,
75 eta. Mounted on cloth for pocket, $1.25.

This is the most complete and portable map in the market,
and it has been brought up to the year 1881. All the new lines
of Railway are shown. It is clearly printed and nicely colored.

Dawson's Map of Manitoba, Keewatin, British Columbia,
and the North West Territory. Paper, f J.50.<gCloth for
pocket, $3.00.

This is a map on a large scale for Travellers and Settlers.
It has been brought up to 1881, and contains all the information
collected on one clear map which is scattered over many govern-
ment publications. It is an enifraveii map, and is clear and
accurate.

The Emigrant and Sportsman in Canada. Some Experiences
of an Old Country Settler, with Sketches o^ Canadian Life,
Sporting Adventures, and Observations^on the Forest and Farms. -,
By John J. Rowan. With a map showing the distribution of
game and fur-bearing animals, fishes for food and sport, and the
distribution of forest trees. Price $2.50.

The book contains practical and useful hints for Emigraota
and Sportsmen ; and as they are written by an Emigrant and -
Sportsman, they have special value for a class of Immigrants'*'
who are not considered in the Government Emigration Litera-
ture, namely, people of small tbrtune, whose means, thou^li
ample for Canada, are insufficient to meet the demands of rising
expenses in England.

Picturesque Quebec. By J. M. LeMoine. (In Press.)

This book will be an 8vo volume. It will give a complete ';■
historical account of the city of Quebec from its foundation, and
a topographical description of its streets, buildings and antiqui-
ties. It will also contain all the romantic and legendary his-
tory which has gathered around the ancient capital of New
Prance. It will be published in July, 1881. Price $2.00.

!'*li»

ROYAL MAIL LINE

) BSl'WBKIf (

QUEBEC, MONTREAL KINGSTON, TORONTO^

HAMILTON

AND INTERMEDIATE PORTS.

This Line U composed of the following Firft-GI«M Side Wheel Stearaen,

Tiz:

■QUEBEC. [Iron] CAPTAIN NELSON

MONTKRAL. " - " BURN

Learlng Montreal at 7 P.M. and Quebec at 6 P.M., dally (Sundays
excepted), calling at intermediate Port4.

) BKTWBKN (

MOlK'SSAXi AMS» SAin&Ton

CORSICAN, (Composite) . . • . . CAITAIN SINCLAIR

SPARTAN, •'^ " BAILEY

CORINTHIAN, •• " WM. ADA

PASSI'ORT, " " IRVINE

ALUERIAN,(new) " " TROWELL

MAGNET, " ...... «< CAMERON

One of wMoh will leave the Canal Basin, every morning (Sundays excepted) at 9
o'clock, and Lachine on arrival of the Train, leaving Bonaventure Station at noon,
for HAMILTON and intermediate port*, making direct connection at Prexoott and
BROCKVILLE with the Hallways for Ottawa City, Kemptville, Perth, Arnprior,
he, at TORONTO and HAMILTON with the Railways for Collingwood, Sault
Ste. Marie, Fort William. Dulutb, Stratford, London, Chatham, Sarnla, Detroit,
Chicago, Milwaukee, lialeiiH, Green Bay, St. Paul and Fort Garry, and with the
Steamers for Niagara, Lewiston, Niagara Falls, Buffiulo, Cleveland, Toledo, Cinoi-
nattl, &o.

Br* The Steamers of this Line are unequalled, and f^om the completeness of
t heir a rrangements, present advantages to fravelters which nune other can afford.

fST" They pass through all the Rapids of the St Lawrence, and the beautiful
■Scenery of the Lake of the Thousand Islands by daylight.

0^The greatest despatch given to Freight and at Lowest Rates. Through
Bates over the Great Western, Canada Southern and Northern Railways given.

Return Tickets at Reduced Rates.

Through Tickets to the f bove places, and also to

OMAHA, SACRAMNTO and SAN FRANCISCO.

Are now issued at the lowest rates, and may be obtained, with eve^
Information, ft-om

R. A. DICKSON, Agent, 133 St. Jamea Street,

ROBT. MoEWE.V, at the Freight Office, Canal Basin,

AND AT TBI

Ticket Office, Richelieu Pier, foot of Jacque»-Cartier Square.

J. B, LAMERE, ALEX, MILLOY,

General Manager. Trc^ Manager.

Gejieral Qffices: 228 St. Paul Street, Montreal.

'1V'»9!T9it

inpuy

10HT0.

} teamen.

ilN NELSON
BURN

indajrs

N SINCLAIR

BAILKY

WM. ADA

IRVINB

TROWELL

CAMERON

excepted) at 9
tationatnooB,
at Prenoott and
!rth, Arnprior,
ngwood, Sault
arnia, Detroit,
, and with the
Toledo, ClDOi-

mpletene*8 of
her can afford.
1 the beautiftil

.tes. Through
rafB gWcn.

[ncisco.

leve^

|uare.

lOY,

Manager.

lontreal.

OFFICE OF VENNOR'S ALMANAC.

Prognostications furnished regarding the weather of localities both in the
UNITED STATES and CANADA.

-:h:{-

VENNOR'S li'EATIlER INDICATORS.

YEHNOR'S MINING LANDS EXCHANGE and GENERAL IIHE AGENCY.
Office and Laboratory, 210 St. James Street,

MONTREAL, Canada.

This Agency is established for the purpose of furnishing information
on all matters pertaining to the Mines and Minerals of Canada.

Mineral lands personally examined and reported on.

Qualitative analysis made of ores, etc.

Specimens and plans of mines, etc., etc.

Estimates furnished of the cost of working mines transportation of ores,
and all matters in connection with Mining.

For Sale, a select lot of Phospahte of Lime Properties, at Moderate
Prices.
A few carefully selected Phosphate and Plumbago properties for sale
AT MODERATE PRICES.

Models of Mines and Furnaces, together with mineral specimens fwrnish-
«d on application.

HENRT 6. TENNOB, F.6.8.

Late of the Geologricai Survey of Canada,

PRACTICAL GEOLOGIST AND MINE INSPECTOR.

■ <» I

AUTHOR OF,

"OUR BIRDS OF PREY"

OB, THE EAGLES. HAWKS AND OWLS, OF CANADA.

a; >'. •'

.-;^::U

'•^■^r

FFIS

limipA^it)..

vJ^

)€216Ne:R and€NGRAVGR_

-** oiM \^/aao • H«—

126 ST. JAMES STREET,

(Opposite the Pott Office.)

KOMTUAL.

The people of t he Doininloa baTe awakened,
to the fact'that iinperfect illnitrationB are in.
juriouB to the subject tbua portrayed ; the mol^t
Hrtistic design may be easily rained by a no-
rice in the art of engrating, or by careless
workmanship.

Manufacturers whose prodacti are imper-
fectly delineated, or the impression given of i
inferior finish, are positively harmed.

J. H. WALKER- has established an engrav-
ing business in Montreal {the first ettablithed in
Canada) that he proposes to maintain by the
execution of FlxBt-olaae Work only ; he has
confidence that Canadian taste will fully
appreciate only eminently superior Wood
Engraving.

f^ By means of the most competent assist-
ants, heis prepared tocompete with all now
engaged iu the business for ordinary work
wbere cheapness is the object.

'•*• ^i^'i

iiili|isM^iM

^:>fT)^J

1^ *''-* j' ■■"■'*

-rTrTTTTTTTTTrTrm

PiflES6^«H|.>

^''^^i^m%\

LKCR^ 1 \

NSRAVGR-

t « *

ES STREET,

Pott Office.)
lAL.

linion bare awakened,
ict illoitratioDB are in.
U8 portrayed ; the mott
eaaily ruined by a no-
raring, or by careless

) prodacts are impcr-
e impression given of

rely banned.

established an engrav-
{i,hefi,rii eitablithed in
to maintain by the
Work only; be has
lan taste will fully
ntly superior Wood

nost competent assist*
compete with all now

ess for ordinary work
the object. i