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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. errata to I pelure, on d D 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^ NO TO Author o: p^ r N T E D ^T y^-^^y ^-^^ yj^i. .<*' ^r^' 'ek€vrsiq:ns '"./ NORTH AMERICA, DESCRIBED IN LETTERS FROM A GENTLEMAN AND HIS YOUNG COMPANION, TO THEIR FRIEXDS IN ENGLAND. By PRISCILLA,A\AKEFIELD, Author ofJuienik Travelkrs, Famihj Tour, c\c. ^c ^ L O N D O N: PAINTED AND SOLD BY DARTON A.VD KAllVEY. GRACECHURCH-STREf.T, 180G. ,^ , ,.;^ i?.v Jr \ u 4- *v^ n^ 272869 The ^ North A and the this coil notice o has indii ral dcsc] adapted readers. When a fund o she shall been fa She con! acknowli in format son, W< chaux, ( *t- PREFACE. J. HE variety of natural productions in North America, both animal and vegetable, and the connection it formerly had with this country, give it a peculiar claim to the notice of British vouth; a consideration that has induced the author to attempt a gene- ral description of it, in the form of a tour, adapted to the taste and capacity of young readers. When the difficulty of selecting from such a fund of materials is considered, she trusts she shall obtain the same indulgence she has been favoured with on former occasions. She considers it a sanction to the work to acknowledge, that the chief sources of her information have been derived from Jefler- son, Weld, Kochefoucault, Bartram, Mi- chaux, Carver, Mackenzie, and Hearn. The ^^ rilEFACE. The curious and original information con- ' tained in the chapter concerning the war with the Indians, was communicated by an Indian chief, and will doubtless, be esteem- ^'^'^™^^ ed a valuable addition ; as it is completely ^'"''''' authentic, and is conveyed in the expressivel^ETTEu^ language of the Indian tribes. FRRATA. Fagc 265, line 5, for Cohog rt.td Cohoz. -— 338, liae 3, for Manatralin nod Manato'.ilin. tauts. C 'i:ttit^ ir. Iiistitutio '/.et, W'o KTTEu irr. ' it'Jii'.J.-.. ] ETTER rv. nicutiuii. ETTER V„ ; ^'ernori. ( AVoods ... ETTER vr. Hock Bride towmac ac .ETTER VII. of" the in!ia ^'•I'-g. York, CONTENTS. \ on con- he war :l by an ?steem- C O N T E N T S. >ee*ife«< iXTROnUCTlOX. ^loti-.cs for the V^n'ago. Arrival la AiuericJi ipletely ^j'eSSjYel-E'TKH ^. PhJI;ul()j)lii;i. Tavern. Buildinij*. Tiiliiibi- tunt?. C'uri'.tiucs. Franklin G I 'r.TTrR If. Trade of IMiiladelphiu. Pcnn. Cliaritable lustitiuions. Tcnul Laws. Goal. Slave Trade. liene- •ict. Vv'oolrnaii. \Vlute Slave Trade. Governnicut li -UTTER Tn. New Jers^'v. Trenton. Biirllnirton. De- la\\are. Duvei". WiUniinrtoii. 3Iills. Fenees, Bridues. C'lester. Havre de Grace. Canvass-back Duck. U'jad.^. Balliiiii>re iio lETTER IV. M'aohaiLiton. Situation. Water comxnu- nicatlun. Plan. Alexandria .*...... 30 ETTER v„ Fails of the Patowniae. Adventure. Meant \'eraon. General Wabliiiiiitun. Loa nouses. Taverns. Woods 35 ETTER vr. l\Ir. JelYeisou. Montlccllo. Looming. Rock Bridi^e. Mud'dison't, Cave. Passage of the Pa- towmac across the Blue Ridge 41 .ETTKR VII. Face of the country iii Vir_i:lnla. C'tiaractcr of the inhabitants Tobacco. Kiclunond. SViliianis- burg. York, ILiniptoii, JNorfulk. IIuuscs of InspcctluM -17 Lkttef. :nts. CONTF.N'IS. f \(;r.. i.r.Tt r r; vnr. Tlousf^-. Tcr^uns. Aiuusonionts. ( Oi'n' ol laws. Trc's. Hird:*. Forust lire .'> 1 Ly.TTrn IV. \'iciiiity ofXorrolIc. Dismal Swamp. Tiir- ki'v-liiuj;u(l. lii-f-liies. Wild tViiit>^. I iihcaltliY di- luato. ?.Iu.-s V.) \vat>j)ii V (iotjs. n 1. 11 \ LKrifiiN. Carolina. Ncwhcrn. (■lia!-l(--li)\vii. C^iiays. ^frrc'th. Ilou-f'. JMalUlCl■^. luncraU. l.;i\\s. Sla\(rv. • ii'icL' swamps. South C'ai('liiia. I'Ot^iis. bciiools. i ImWiLo. ColtDH , Li!'' m; ; ■ Mynlv ^'^^^'" ''■ jirna ' Mouiila j:a.t'l\ Ifivcr. LiirTEii XI. Snakes. Cannan>. \\'iiiiumi. ]Maiitor>. "N'c- tirocs. Nciiro Markt.t. C .o-ar. \v iiitrr soabcjii. Yellow LettePw XII. Savannah. Defeat of !\Ioui^leurDcstaiii<;. Classes of the iuhabltantb of America. Bordcroio. >^anl)ury. Catharine I.slaiuis. Shrubs, Animals. Opossfcum. Raccoon ''|tuijix> I l.frt;-. LFiTrRxiir, Geoorapliical situation. Alatamaha river. I j,,j^^ |^ View of the country. Fishing party. Storm. X'et^e- 1 niaiukr tahlu produelio:i«. Saud holes. 0<>;cechee limes. Vn- I cultivated tract. Anuuuas. 'lortoii«e. St. Mary's Hi- I.itjiiivx \er. St. J j.Mii's llivcr. Indians • •..-•..••••• G.ji ,'scli,j,,i^^ I lliii'jodil T.VTTE1 XIV. Excursion into th2 interior part of tlie | coiuitry. Forests. Laurel mai;noiia. Palmetto royal. iiTit;i> x\ I\Ioss. Cypress. Eagles. I'crroqucts. Ilihlscus. Sea Jdaia'aoi pelican. Water-fowl. Cray-fish. Allegalor. Indian | q,^ ^Jj^^ q village. Butterriies , ^i IManners I 3Iarielta Lett nil xv. Islands of sea-wcecf. Snake-bird. F.piie- mera. Ciarr. Breaiw. Taskawila. Indian rtccptiun. Iminxxi IV-rsuni. I'cast. Town. Houses. Situation. Siminwie a Alleiianv, horacs, C'.vttle, Dc-cr. TCibiic etUcrcainiiK'nt.. . ... ^'i - Li TT I \ .:;i;(.a->taik. Cf'Pj'f,' tn.i.i . {'cat l.cs. lif'.l [''.aif. \ ww (tf Xfw York. Amvai in tiial c't >, lUi iKiiin y.w. X'v\ Y'iik. Bn-ail W'av. ] i (( duin nt' rc- ll'jiou^ sci'.riiiit'nt;*. Ma; mM>, ( 'liiritaltlr iu^^titutions. "^lavcs. Tr;; !('. r'H.iMimin'a of' tin" (•<)|oiiv. I-oiiir (••laii'i. <^ !;:ira( .u;r '•! '.Ii' iii!ialiit;ints. ( iii i(iii> iu'lto. i".:ivirucces>ion of Lew n^ to liu-^tou 17 C l.v.iTi u xx\ I. Ti-.ivcllcrs in tlio :^tai:c' vmilt'-'Oii. Pot-nsli. (u,[\ and W;t(llev. Coiiii*-cticut. i'irst Settlers. Ni:ho()!j. i{ii"tlc Islanrl. Clieese. Gciirral Green. Vfiston. Harbour, fshuuls. Mouuincni. Trailc. Sca- ott« r. I'ur trade - iivr i: " x\v!i. I.vuti, Saleii). I'cfbtciuioii of" witches. Muit-!vi:eu(l. lJfvc:l-v. iJrying stork-iisli. Glouccii- ter, rsewbiuv Vort. Hiiver Morriinaciv. Small towns. i'i-cata(iuu Brida*'. Pjidautl. Itiver Kennebcck. VN'ood-tutterr. Haj-py tarnuM-s , , . , T.y.iTra xxvm. District of IMaino. Poverty of the in- hiihitants. Trees. Animals. Penobscot. Meet an ii.\|ualut.'iuee. N.intuckct. Sancho. Whalers lt'T'*T. xx!x. Voyage to pjo-toij. Artlats and great rnen. .\^Ma;uaiico of the eonutry. River Cnnnceticut. iNvJiiLf.nipUiU. Pittslieid. .Shakers. iMinerai :^p^i^g. Aibuuy .,...>. ,......».......•..# X.F.TTEU X: 17 0. fence. li Maiuifa( Female lashes. .^ morencii 18i , J-ETTER X 190" l.a Chin mfen. I Jslaud-s. .KTTER X rio. Nil Excursic ^osI-Letter > ludiuui. jLkttebI ' CONTEXTS. l.vM. , . . VAC v.. (ik ' * LK''''^^^' 1 Ik* ii"'ri"i«lJvc of aiiliidiau clilrr, rnnrriii- t-/ lii^ til': ^v;ir !.<'t\M'en the Aimriraiis ;inil >-oi!M' '>f tin- Imliaii trilics 'JOj lUtH- . ,. Ij! 1 1 r; \\M. ('"li<»7. Catniacf. C'luioiis miiirral spriuir. '"I'll. ^^ ' '^ ^ ji. f>;irat.)rii. Trcrs. .''ski'nohoroiii;!!. Lalsr Chaiuplain. 'yj . 'riruiidiTaj^o. (r(t\sn rdinf. Iijiliau canor. St. ".-I .^)liirs. A new acquaiiitauce 265 I jT r '- Sft'T '•'■'' ^^xii. TIio advcnttifcs of a ria\ t-IIiT taken cap- ;.,„>^ 'pive l.\ tli<' ludiaiis i.71 lfl:TrFR xwirr. Mode of travdlincr. Description of u ,-, bateau. Canadian n^nnners. Montreal. Cathcdial. I I'uneral. Island of Montreal. Journey to Quebec. » nci. 'Sorellc Quebec. Cape Diamond. General Wolf. Ltlers. i^""^ 2S7 reen. o J|,F.TTEU xxxrv. IJritish possessions. Government. Dc- 1*0. •> fence, llelitiion. Servants. Produce. Trees. Maple. Manufactures. Exports. Scitjjniors. Catiiolie eust(»ins. J 1 Female peasants. Diversions. Birch canoes. Ca- Duces- lashes. Sledges. Climate. Fur trade. Falls of Mont- jj^^.jjg "' moreucieand Lu Cimudiero. Trois Rivieres. Nuns 29i ^g, J-LTTF.R XXXV. Mr. Franklin joins a paity of traders. La Chine. Coekanonaga Imlians. Canadian boat- le in- mtn. llapids. Hill of Cedars. Lake of a Tliousand et an ^ Islands. Kingston. Course of the Iiiver St. Lawrence 301 ... 190 ■ Letter xxxvi. Kingston. Voyage across Lake Onta- <■ men. ^^^' N'iagnra. Aj;ue. Fare. Indian mode of fiishing, •ticut. Excursion to the Falls of Niagara '309' •piing. I ^f^giLcTTER XXXVII. Snakes. Pigeon shooting. Sentka i| Imliun::. Blow-gun, Btar huiuiuij. Spruce phca- LvTTtRj COXTENTS. P A o K «ants. Fort Clilpprway. Block-house. Fort F.rie. Jj;i(l accomiuocliitions , 3 Hi Lf.ttf.r xNxvrrr, X'oya^^o across T.ake Erie. Islan.l'-. Detroit Kiver. Siiiitrinterulaiii of the fiidiaii Depart- inciit. Di^Lrict ul'Maldcu, JJistriijulioii of pro^-cni-. oJo Eetti. R wxix. Detroit. I'luit. Prcjvisioiis. Iiidiaiis. Siirnaines. Ingenuity. (ie()j;raj)hy. IJinyiiiL; itu; hatchet 3;; ! LrxTER xr,. Lake IlnrDii. Sir^aiiaum Bay. Thunder iiay. Trade ofMiciiiiliaiukiuaek. Orii^in of tiie fur trade. Coureurs de iJuia, 31iiitary posts. Small-pox. North Company. Articles of exchange. \ oyage of the traders. Euiharkati>)n. \'oyage to Michilliiuacki- nack. Departure from that place. . . G^w LktteRxli. Voyage to Fort Chlppevvyan. Wliite-fisli. Lake Superior. Fruits. Fine mjw. Winter residence. Fishery 211 I.KTTER xLii. Dcpnrttire from C'hippewyan. Ice. 3Iusquitoes. .Moose-ileer. Rein-deer. Beavers. Jsland. Red-knife hidians. Snuill berries. Indian lodges. ^^ hiu' partridt:»is. JJackenzie's River. Horn jMountain. Indian encampment. Dog-rib Indians. Ikars. Small white iiullah^es. Aged Indian. Scat- tered parties of Indians. Hare Indians. (Ouarrellers, Divided ehunnel. Relics of the Ebtjuimaux. Face of the country. Animals. A grave. Fide. Whaies. I'l'M^k. Return. Place of sepulture. Dear {."luud. Solitary female. Supcrsliiious Knistenaux. (. lic'.'e- ^.vvaii , ... .-o I^rt.::; llNace * ^ ''U'ro^t. ilndian JMand- J J )l Villi' jniiriuii X,: n F.R \ cr.Uif-^. ■ :;;f'a'i(j l,;ind "t 'i caii'^''. ti)[)pe(l Ocean. l-KTTKR i vessel. s Aineric Letter •i-i r.fic. » 31.'; Dt'paiL- iidiiiiis. ini; tlu; O.I,, • •>••• O.J : huudcr tlie fur lil-f)0.\. iiiacki- r» > » •••••• o»> < Icnce. 21 J Ice. CONTKNTS. . r.vf.c l^.rir.r. \jni, Dcpaitiue tor tlu- '-futli-wostv. nvd. fr«iHT r<)int. I'acf of the contitrv, and aiiitiiaU. JVn>t. I'nrt. 'I'lif Swan. Strange Iiidiiin cn-fom. fliidian iiianuci--:. (..'oiitiimc the \<)v;ii;o. Ilcar^' Don. Jl-iand?. ]\,!k Miarc. nanj:(Mv»u^ advcntuio, Trt'cs. |J)ividfd !;iv(M-. iiiilian^;. Jlird.^. CauDr ^uikc-s. Cit'w jnnnmirs. J )i!'ti( allies .■ 37^3 l:nKR\rr\. l^ -..Muliark. Rocks, rxfreme dil]i- li <-;i!tifN. Indian hoU'O, ii^liin^ iiiai.liinc. C'oniiuu- , :i:raM(;ii \\ii!i Mr:i-j;iiiii; trihc-;. Sul,t(. r.-ancan 'lousc. _' I. Imd Indian. Aiarni (if t!ic natives. I'arc. J.cuve the I c.iiiu''. Land journey. \aii.)Ub trihes. Manners. Ilod- ^ ii>^!i .lien. X'illage. Natives. Mainier.s. Fare. 8no\v- tonped nionntains. \"lllage. I'riendlv Indians. \ ()va<-e. I ( )(:ean. Staiiun on a rock ..,...., , 300 J-i.TTKR XLV. Xativcs. Arrival of an Europoan i vessel. Tratllc. Meet a fi-iend. Ceneral rcauuks on .\merica ^.. ( jscii^ioa , _ . ,Q IXTilODrCTfOX, lYC #-^ tot Jpcin for Cf^ion, a r them, I Arthur active lif chr.cd hei cure for hilt sever tunc to U! to undert: than she a Of being i Ffdnklin. tliiir and loks, cal (» : arrjc flXCURSIO^S in KOJ-LTIl AMERICA, \t\ '. am,. n;;s!: t!;eii'^, none ("CiJghted Arthur so n much 2 much as travels, and the description of foreign countries, which he read with the greatest avidity, always placing himself, in idea, in the situation oi the hero of the tale, and declaring that, as soon as he should have the direction of himself, he would make a voyage round the world. It happened that Robertson's History of America, amongst others, fell Into his hands, which, though he was shocked at the barbarities inflicted on the natives, interested him extremely, and made him earnestly wish to see a country, that had been the scene of such extraordinary exploits ; and where the rivers, the mountains, and forests are upon a grander scale than those in Europe. This work inflamed him with curiosity to visit the Indian nations that inha- bit the interior of that extensive continent: he longed to see their warriors, and partake with them the pursuits of the chace. Whilst these wishes engaged liis attention, Mr. Henry Franklin arrived in England, and having been unaccustomed to the confinement of domes- tic life, and tree from all connexions but his bro- ther, had no inclination to sit down inactively at home. Soon after his return, a proposal was made to him by a nobleman of high rank, to ex- plore North America, with a view to procure au- thentic information concerning the customs oi the natives, as well as t^.. ^e of the European settlers ; the productions of the soil, the animals, the face of the country, and in short, every thing that could fcou!d vast J an un lified quire his CO his p in thd travel itentivel .|t •ind con 1 Si F foreign t avidity, jation oi 5 soon as le would ened that 5t others, shocked nterested ' wish to of sucli vers, the dcr scale itned him [hat inha- ncnt: he th them '1 ion, Mr. 1 having : domes- his bro- tively at sal was to ex- ure au- s oi the ettlers ; ithe face ng that could ^ou!d contribute to a complete description of that vast portion ot the terraqueous globe. This was ati undertaking for which he was particularly qua- lified by his natural tiidowmcnts, habits, and ac- quired knowledge. His understanding was clear, his constitution strong, his courage undismayed, his pursuit oi knowledge insatiable, and he was in the prime of life. He had read a great deal, travelled much, and observed accurately what he had seen : wiui a mind so enriched, and a disposi- . tion congenial to the task, he was the man pecu- liarly adapted to his patron's design. The oiler was no sooner made than accepted, for how could vhe refuse a scheme so agreeable to his taste. Dur- • ing the short time that was necessary to arrange fhis private affairs, he was a frequent visitor at ;Mrs. Middleton's, where the conversation gene- ,|rally turned upon his voyage, or some circum- jStance relative to it. Arthur always listened at* itcntively to this subject, would often bring Jthe map, and request him to trace his intended |routc ; his eyes sparkling with pleasure, whilstJic fnientioncd different objects likely to occur in va- |r:ous parts oi the country. ■ His desire to accompany his friend at length be- J came so ardent, that Mrs. Middleton changed her views for him, and yielded to his inclination ; a measure in which she more easily concurred, from tiie high confidence she placed in the character inJ conduct ot Mr. Franklin. Her consent once B £ obuined, 'I ' ohialned, Artliui's joy was excessive; lie coi;': speak on no otlier topic but his journey : sleepin: or waking his mind was full ot llie same image; and in his dreams he was continually accompanie: by li.dians, or people in grotesque habits, pur. suing some wild animal through the paihltj deserts. Every preparation being adjusted, and the vessi in which they were to embark ready to i.ail, an at fccting parting took place between Mrs. Middle ton and her son, with many injunctions from Ik, and entreaties from his sisters and brother to win; regularly an account of whatever occurred to hiii: whether he was situated where his letters could b. conveyed by mails to England, or not ; as an un broken chain of events might thus be preserve' which might be sent to them in packets, as oppor tunity ofFered. Mr. Henry Franklin made a sinii )ar promise to his brother, and the moment ot se paration being arrived, after alfectionate embrace on all sides, Mr. Henry Franklin conducted 1;. young charge on board the vessel, destined to con vey them across the Atlantic to America, The confinement of the ship, the want of varit ty, each succeeding day being nearly like th^ which went before it, with the delay of expects tion, rendered the voyage insufferably tedious ; Arthur; and never were his ears more agreeabi struck, than with the sailor's cry, of •» land, land, as the shores of the Delaware were fuct perceive I D lic! coi;': : sleeDin: ne imager companie: abits, pur. e pathlt'y 1 the vessc sail, an at rs. Middlr s from Ik r ler to wiiu red to hiii: rs could b ; as an un preservcfi as oppor adc a siini cut ot se enibraci ducted li. ned to con • It of vaiic like th. »i expecta tedious t agrecab. md, land, perceivcc lii. Ike a small blue cloud, at the edge ot the ho- i As they drew nearer, the tops of trees became fj-ible, and resembled small ishnids ; till, by dc- giecs, the majestic forest was seen clothing llie iiioies to the brink of the water. ^1 Arthur would gladly have been put on shore, tut the captain dared not infrinire a f.iu', (enacted 111 account ol the dreadful pesiilerue, that ra,«;c'l ;i Pliiladclphia in i;^;,], and ItJS so n^:cn de^o- jritC'J H since,) that no person sl:all leave any iiip nil It lias been examined by the ufHccr ut eahli. I Havii;g surmoantcd all delays, they at length at their iect on that vast continent, which was ot known in Europe, till 1497, when it was dis- overed by Americas Yespuiius, and presently Intered Philadelphia, the ancient capital of the l^nted Slates, with emotions of curiosity and in- ierest, scarcely to be described. 'I The captain conducted them to a tavern, as all Inns are called in this country, where they refresh- td themselves with repose, change of linen, ^c. f\ day or two's experience convinced Mr. Frank- in, that as he intended to pass some time in tr.is iity, a more comfortable and settled habitation was lecessary. The master of the inn recommended lim to a respectable widow, who kept a boarding- ouse lor strangers, where he was agreeably sup- B 3 plied 1 I t> LETTER I. A) thar Middkton to his Broliicr Ecl^in. Philadelphia. Dear Brother, MY sisters must consider my letters as addressed to them as well as to you, for ! cannct repeat the same things three times over; and I must make each oi you participate with me in every ad. venture, whether prosperous or unfortunate. Behold me at last arrived in this great city, hi- therto the capital of the United States, though the new city of Washington is to be the metropolis of the empire. The capacious bay at the mouth of the river Delaware, on which Philadelphia stands, is bound- ed on the north-west by the province of New Jer- tid that of Delaware on ti he sh fnd CO fsherc plied with apartments, and every other cc. v^n*. ence. Before he extended his views to any other par? of the countrv, his first care was to see every r-t^arer thing worth notice in Philadelphia, which he did elevate with the best directed attention, as will appear by *'^ ^'" the letters transmitted to England. lowns, At a ftnce, liouses ^cive r p roach and ra we pas iirings jsliown |other ^ Si priva alight i lohliged or six 1 'liad n« -; forgot ;Frankl on the in that no idej the cu must s The sey, oppc The! other paif see every ch he did appear by 'Icbsxin. iiadclphia, letters as ! cannci nd I must every ad. ite. city, hi- louf^h the letropolii the river is bound- !^ew Jer- site side. The! J"hc shores, both of the bay and the river, are low, fnd covered with forests, except in a few places, %\ here they arc snpplaiucd by extcnsives marches, Kearer to Philadelphia tiie shores become more elevated, and, on the Delaware side especially, arc enlivened with numberless neat farm houses, lowns, and villages. I At a distance, the city makes a noble appear- ance, but the confu'.cd heap of wooden store- liouses and wharfs, that jut out into the river, ,itave mc a mean opinion of it, on our first ap- proach, which was not improved by the dirt :and narrowness of VVatcr-street, through which we passed to our inn. The mention ot the inn l)rings to my recollection my surprise, ai being ^gliown into a roon; already occupied by all the i)iher guests in the house. Mr. Franklin ordered fa private apartment, but none was to be had. At jiright it was far more disagreeable, for we were ^obliged to sleep in a chamber furnished with five or six beds, and filled with people whose faces we Iliad never seen before. I was so fatigued that I iforgot the whole matter in five minufcs, but Mr. iFranklin remonstrated with the master of the house, }cn the impropriety of huddling strangers together ^in that manner; but without any effect, for he had 'no idea of such refinement, and said, that it was the custom of the country, to which travellers must submit. The city is built according to a most beautiful B 4 and 1 and regular design, with the s.'icfts iritcrsrctin. iical each uther at right angles, as %\e arc told nianv liiittce, other American towns are. At the point whci'; builciinl the two principal streets cross each other, is erect- of nr.p| ed a marble rotunda, to receive and distribute tiio pil;i>tci waters of t})e Scluiylkill, which is raised by ina. gpartmi chinery to a level of thirty or forty feet above the ; The highest ground in the city, by pipes, as it is i:i kinds; London. The pii.Mcipal street is oner hundred feet try. H wide, the others vaiy trom eighty to fifty: they arr is one all paved with, pebbles, having p^fh-ways of red brick, with pumps on each o( them, at a little distance from each other, witli lamps fixed on ilic fop oi tficrn. Most of the liouses aie likewise built Willi brick, some few of wood; and those most remarkable for their elegance are ornamentcl with a particular species of pale-blue marble, as are many of the public structures, which are also generally britk. The State-house is handsome, the legislauve bo. dies hold their meetings in it; adjoining to it, are the congress and city halls. The first was used by the congress of the United States, before they held their assemblies at Washington: t!ie senate chamber is handsomely fitted up, but the apart- ment designed for the representatives ot the lower house is entirely plain, and easv of access to every one who chuses to enter it, as the gallery leading to it is open to the street. The president's house is construccd in a whim- sica; jortico tlie Af tlie nej tlie wai Here th Ih'jir o\ jn any ( I The langtd, Visions 1 We |he con ioin of pacco 1 to visit |)lnthe> fship ; sembli -I Ihve in fthe gr ;S tcrsfctii)/ old nianv lit \vll(Jl>." , is rrect- ibutc the :(1 by uid. il)uve the it is i:i itlred feet : tlicv ail •s of rvi\ It a little L*d on th.c likewise nd those icTnicntcil arble, as are alio auve bo. o it, arc used by )re tfiev e senate e apait- le lower to every leading whim-^ sica; ileal manner, from tlic interference of a com- ttiittee, which was appointed to superintend the building. These wise architects, from the spirit of improvement, reversed the stories ; so that the pilasters which shouKl have supported the upper apartments, seem to be suspended in tlie air. I'he places of worship are numerous, and of all kinds; every religion being tolerated in this coun- try. The church belongirii; to the Presbyterians is one of the handsomest, being decorated with a portico, supported by six Corinthian pillars. But 6ie African church, appropri^ited to ifie use ot the negroes, an oppressed race, lor whom I feel tlie warmest compassit)n, pleased me the most. Jlcre tliey receive instruciicm from a clergyman of fheir own colour ; a privilege they scarcely er^joy |n any other place. I 1 he principal market is very large, neatly ar- langtd, and well supplied with variety ot pro- vision s. We have been once or twice to the theatre, but ^lie company in the pit have such a disgusting cus- |oin ol drinking wine or porter, and smoking to- pacco between the acts, that I have no inclination to visit it again. 1 was better amused at the am- |)hithejtre, where they show feats of horse -nan- |6hip ; and we have been introduced to several as- semblies, and concerts: for the wealthy merchants flive in an elegant style, and imitate the manners of 'the great cities in Europe; and as there are no B 5 luies^ TO titles of nol)ility, lie ladies love to clisiinguii!; themselves by ihe spleiuloiir oi their dress ani e(ii.ii[)^ges. The young women arc jrcnerally hand- some, but they lose their teeth much sooner thdn we do, and K)ok old very early. The men are almost always engaged in business and show a re.servc to straniijers ; though we have met with some very intelligent, agreealde, kind- licarted people: there being a great variety; for the city has been supplied with inhabitants Irom mo • of the nations in Europe, who have left their own country with the hopes of making a lortune, an'l many succeed in this enterprise very rapidly. Mr. >'ranklin says there are few instances in history <>t a city rising by such a hasty progress to so great a height of prosperity as Philadt:Iphia. We saw an old man who remembers the time when there vere but three coaches kept in it, and now ilie streets are filled with them. He asserts, likewise, that two or three vessels, at most, arrived in a ye;jr, with the manufactures of Great Britain ; but at present, the commerce is so much increased, that «ome thousands of ships go out of the port yearly, to different quarters of the globe; forty or fifty ol which double the southern promontory of Africa, to exchange the productions of the United States tor the richest commodities of the East, and to tniich the busy inhabitants of both countries by commerce. The modes of religion vary as much »s the origin of the people j but the Quakers are the ;he 1 lion Was thren xr tified, tains n fdls o leat o the Sc Jectior |on, w lie bo was an tnd, in arristj Jinistaki fice-pi i The ()urs in lount |re car |he coa |he fro |nd th( |he cai g|ers, V Jiorses Jvise o oors. % dress anj ally hand. Doncr thjM 1 business ;h we liavi' il»lc, kind- ity; for ti;'. trom mo * 1 II the most numerous, that liavlrig been the profes- lion of Williatn Penn, tlic fiist proprietor, w^o %vas folluwed to America by many ol his bre- thren. ' My taste for natural history has been highly gra- tified, not only at the curious museum, which con- tains a complete collection ot the animals and mine- rals of North America, but likewise in a visit to the leat of Mr. William Hamilton, at the Woodlands on the Schuylkill, near the city, where is a superb col- iheirowri Jection of exotic plants. 'I he late Colonel llamil- rtune, and ton, was, 1 believe, a relation of this gentleman's. }idly. Mr. |Ic bore a great character t(;r talent and conduct, history (m |\'as an active supporter ol General Wasliingion, > so great a And, in the latter part of his life, was eminent as a Ve saw an parrister; but unfortunately tell a sacrifice to the hen tlicrc |iiistaken notions of honour, in a duel with the now lilt fice-president, Burr. likewise, ^ The coaches and chariots are much the same as inaye;jr, 0urs in England, but 1 must give you some ac- n ; but iit lount of the light waggons and coachees, which ased, th.tt |re carriages in common use h.ere. I'hc body of art yearly, Jhe coachee is rather longer than that ot a coach ; or fifty ot |he Iront of it is quite open dovvn to the bottom ; >f Africa, |nd the driver sits on a bench, under the roof ot ted States Ihe carriage : within are two seats for the passen- ers, who are placed with their faces towards the orses : the roof is supported by props; it is like- vise open above the pannels on each side of the oors, and, as a defence against bad weath&r,, it is B 6 tuinished St, and to mtries by / as much aakers are the ¥ 12 ^4 furnished with a leathern ciutjin, which enclose? the open part. The light wiif^^ons are veiy inurh like the coachees, but tliey are not so ekgantiy fitted up, and are large enough to hohl a dozen people, which makes them convenient for sta^^c carriages. I was not satisfied, you may be cer. tain, till I had had a ride in each oi them. The Philadelphians are indebted to Benjamin Franklin, for the establishment of the university, the public library, the hospitals, companies of assurance against fire, and the philosophical society. This great man was the son of a soap-boiler at Boston, and was born in 1706. Having taken a dislike to his father's business, he was apprenticed to hii brother, who was a printer, and published a newspa. per; which gave young Franiiim an opportunity of displaying his genius and taste for literature, that excited his brother's jealousy to so great a dc- gree, that he was obliged to leave him, and under. went many vicissitudes in attempting to make his way in the world, by his own abilites and indus- try, unassisted by a friend, or the fostering hand of a parent. He was at one time so much reduc ed, as to wander about the streets of Philadelphia, a stranger to all arround him, without employ- ment, or knowing where to find any ; eating a dry crust, and quenching his thirst in the waters of the Delaware, with only five shillings in his poc ket ; and yet, he rose to be the legislator of Ame. xica, and her ambassador at the court of France, where 4 :h cue !o^ct veiy much elt'gantlv il a dozv:\ t for stai^c lay be cer. lem. The n Franklin, the public assurance ety. This at Boston, m a dislike iced to hi? 1 a newspa- [pporfunitv literature, rcat a dc- id under. iTiake his nd indus- ring band ch reduc adelphia, cmpiov- ing a dry vaters of his poc- or Ame. liance, where 13 Ivlierc he was reverenced as an able negociator, |nd the father of his country. He did not shine only in public life, but even his hours of leisure were devoted to the good of mankind. In experimental philosophy be had few jpquals; the greatest discoveries in electricity, are jihe result of his observations. His example in /temperance, moderation, and economy, assisted by his gazette, and Poor Ricliard's A'mianack, is sup- posed to have had great influence in promoting the morals of his countrymen ; and his unostenta- tious, amiable manners, secured him a numerous circle of friends, whilst his politics relative to /America, raised him many enemies in England, jvho still execrate his memory. But you and I |iave nothing to do wiih political squabbles; virtue |s virtue, whether in a friend or an enemy, and ihere are noble traits in Dr. Frankl'ii's character, .'whith we must admire, and oiight to imitate. 4 Ever your afiectionate 1 ARTHUR MIDDLETON. j-».,- LETTER 14 LETTER II. Hairy Franklin to his Brother. Philaddphia. DEAR BROTHER, A VESSEL being ready to sail for En- gland, I gladly embrace the opportunity of mak- ing a few remarks on some subjects that have excited my attention. Commerce is the universal occupation of the inhabitants ol this city, though many of the mo- nieu men employ their capitals in buying and sell- ing land, which is here as much an article of traffic as any other commodity. Philadelphia is the grand emporium of the whole province and adjoining states, collecting from them the follow- ing articles tor exportation: charcoal, pot-ash, beer, eyder, salt m.eat and fish, butter, cheese, corn, flour, tallow candles, linseed, soap, timber staves, hides, deer and beaver skins, bark, and pigs of iron. 1 he accommodations for commerce are excellent, the quay being large, ;^nd^o con- veniently construciecl, tli^t nicrehaiUinen of con- siderable size can unload their cargoes without difhcuhy. Tncrc are also several wet and dry docks for buihling and rcpaiiing ships, besides numerous magazines and stores; (the American name I The JB coun jStrengt sgreat ; *i,The h( land is Isick ai r. iladt'lphia. 1 for En. of mak- :hat have 3n of the the mo- 5 and sell- arlicie of lelphia is ince and le iollow'. pot-ash, cheese, timber lark, and >rtimerce ■SO con- of con- vviihi)ut |and dry besides ^mcrican name 15 garrre for warehouses ;) to which may be added, ^c advantage, both to utility and hcauty, by the introduction of canals, and the situation ot the city between two rivers, the Delaware and the Schuylkill, which nearly enclose it. It was . founded by the celebrated William Penn, in 1682. 4ie received a grant o\ lands, on the western side ©f the Delaware, from the crown, since erected into a province, called Pennsylvania. The wisdom, moderation, justice, and humanity ot this great man's character, were ei.-^lncntly displayed in the plan of his city, the code o^ laws for tiie govern- ment of his province, and his upright and gener- ous treatment of the Indians from whom he made the purchase. Their ve!ierdticn for lus memory Is so deeply rooted, and tlieir confidence in his ve- |"acity so unshaken, that, to this day, they are never |)erfect!y satisfied with any treaty, unless some IJuak^'i's are present at the conference ; for, say ihey, the descendants td William Penn will ne- ^er suffer us to be deceived. A mc>rc noble testi. ^ony to his integrity, than the scuiptureti bust, cr garble monument. I There are but few poor, as iTiay be expected in 'a country, where every man who enjevs health and ■strength, may earn a comlurtablc subsistence : but jjgreat attention is paid to those tew who want it. |The hospital is bui't in the form of a Roman M, ind is under excellent regulations; supplying the [sick and infirm with every necessary conifort, be- sides \r 16 sides afTording an asylum for kmatics, omen, and children who are deserted w arents. The Bettering House is a kind of wor where cnriploymcnt and support are prov the aged, the destitute, and the friendless. Philadelphia has the honour of giving to mai •(|eni toi cndl kind, an example of the advantages to be derives o|" gactier, wlio is forbidden to speak to him with- out absolute occasion. If he is reiraciory, or Cfmmitted for an atrocious crime, lie is confined til a fiai k cell. I'i lie first improvement in the condition of a pfisoncr, i:^ tiie permission to do some kind of Wjurk; an indulgence, prized even by the idle, af- 10- they have endured the wearisomcne any othe: establish. wise ana A mem. >, proposed severance, offs or op. gth his ar. rd, one o: dertakinu; e Divine te of per- perpetu- a stranffe! hough we ) splendi: with dain- )!ied wii: Aft:: 19 After one of these handsome entertainments, where we had been attended by negro slaves, I observed a cloud upon the brow of my young friend, for which I could not account, till he con- Itssed, that the sight of men, who were the pro- ierty of their fellow creatures, and subject to every Ihdignity, excited such painful reflections, that he iould not banish them from his mind. I endea- toured to soothe him, by representing that their ^eatment here is gentle, compared with that cxer-. ihed in the southern states, and in the West In- iies; though the efforts that have been made for the jbolition of slavery, have improved their condition ivcry where. I It is indeed to be regretted, that men, so ardent the love of liberty for themselves as the Ameri- lans are, should continue, in any degree, to tole- 3fe the slave trade. Many amongst them, how** ver, have used every endeavour to abolish it, par- cularly Anthony Benezet. He was born at St. ©uintin, in Picardy, in 1712. France, at this f me, suffered from religious persecution ; which |rove the parents of Benezet to England, where he Imbraced the doctrines of the Quakers. He went |o America in 1736, and settled at Philadelphia, in commercial lirre of business; but that employ* ent being unsuitable to his turn of mind, he quitted it for the instruction of youth, and under* |{>ok the management of a school, belonging to the ;ocicty whose principles he had adopted. From that condemn nic slave-trade and slavery. 1 he nr- • II I- 1 • 1 1 I hut has intlueiice ot \i\s works was perceived amongst i!-. Quakers. Many of them determined to emanc;. " pate their slaves ; and the society since has bee: ^^ ^ 1 L 1- • Tj lb be de very active jn promoting the abolition, beneiie; W knew that instruction was necessary for those i^'^ blacks whose liberty he had procured ; and findin? •'^^^'^ few willing to undertake a task, that prejudice haa rendered contemptible, he determined to devote his own time to the glorious occupation of en- lightening the ignorant and neglected, and his little fortune to the establishment of a school for the ne- groes. The influence of a good example is po\ - crful. Those who had not courage to begin, cheer- fully assisted the work ; and the school now en- joys a revenue oi two hundred pounds per annuir. This good man died in 1784; honoured by the tears of the blacks, and the regret of every friend * . ° 1 T 1 TX7 I 1 u ; ih'ithou to liumanuy. Jolin Woolman, also a member q: the same society, remarkable for the simplicity 0! his manners, and his opposition to the slave-trade, implo) ind tl; unite; 21 Qcy dcrancd to the public works. The little state c Delaware followed this noble example. Nc^ York has sanctioned nearly the same regulations i: their favour as Pennsylvania. A society, cor nected with one in London, and others in t!.: American states, formed for the express purpose o promoting the abolition, has greatly ameliorate; their condition, in all respects; especially by a! fording numbers of them a degree of instruction ;- religion, and the useful arts of reading and wrii. ing, which they acquire with as much facility a- white men brought up in the same manner. Fror this information we may encourage the hope, tha the time approaches when their shackles shall b; removed, and they shall participate with the otlic: races of mankind, in the common benefits ot liber, ty and independence: that instead of the treatmen: of beasts of burthen, they shall be considered a. rational beings, and co-heirs with us of immortality that a conscientious care of educating their clui. dren in the great duties ot Christianity, will pio- duce a happy change trom the vices in which, Iron! ignorance and a combination of unfavourable cir- cumstances, they now live, to the practice of reli- gion and morality, and entitle them to rank on ar equality with their fellow-creatures. Besides these public acts in favour of the negroes, many indivi- duals have generously given liberty to their slaves, amongst others that have fallen under my notice, I shall mention the instance of Messrs. David a;u: hnE #ho rec |(on in Jhey ii ^L'c ; a gftcrwa |ig broi Idnagc flelphia, ries ; icnds i lition Si ades, : -rly ii arded cse lib il mem Many oney ; cmseh lOugh a Jrcssed, 'H)d SUj anothi uses tl ers of opes ol Ind havi icttle thi imployr "> i?3 le state c John Barclay, respectable mcrch.nts in . ondon, >le. Nen nho received, as an equivalent for a .-lebt, 4 plants ulationsi: |jon in Jamaica, stocked with thirty-two shvc . icty, cor Jlicy iinnicdidtcly resolved to set these negroc :rs in tl,; Ace ; and that they might cHcctually enable them purpose (||'tcrwards to provide tor themselves, the surviv* meliorate; feg brother, David, sent an agcni from England to lly by a! gjanagc the business, and convey them to Phila- tructionr ilphia, having first supplied them wiih all ncccs- and wri!. ||iries ; where, und?r the fostering hand of his facility '(.' Jicnds in that city, with thi- assistance of the Abo- er. Fror Ution Society, they W' re apprenticed to mechanic hope, th<; ||adcs, and the children sent to school to be pro- js shall b; ierly instructed. Tiiii benrvoitMit act was rc- b the otlic; warded with extraordinary success. Except two, cse liberated slaves prospered, and became usc- il members ot the community. Many of those who are free, gain a great deal of oncy ; as I conclude, from a ball given among cmselvcs, at which we were present, where, lough all of a sooty black, the company was well ressed, came in coaches, and were regaled with a iood supper and variety of refreshments. There 1^ another species of bondage practised here, that uses the indignation of an Englishnjan. Num- ers of European labourers and mechanics, in opes of making a fortune, emigrate to America ; iir slaves, l^d having no money to pay for their passage, or ly notice, David ant; J..,l;.- s ts of liber, treat men: id e red a. mortal i:y icir chil- will pro- hich, Iron*, •able cir- ce of reli- nk on an ides these ny indivi. 1 L^4 J owtier of tlic vessel in whicli they came, to i ■ liighe^t bidder, ior a certain number of year?, li' term being regulated by the value oi their labub If they understand a trade, they are sold for shorter time ; but if they can only dig, they niii; endure the hardships of their condition for a lon^; period, during which they are so^mucli at the (li« posa! of ihcir masters, that ihcy may sell and ic sell them at their pleasure. We saw a whole car;:^ from England sold a few days ago; and ArtLi. was so provoked at the sight of a high-spirited I,-. of his own age, driven betorc liis purchaser, l!;; he cndeavcurcd to rescue him; and if I had no had powerful friends, both he and the youth niih; have gone to prison for the odencc. You well know that the United States of Aire. rica were formerly colonics oi Great Britain ; bi,: a dispute arising between them and the moth.; country, a civil war ensued, which terminated i the Americans becoming an independent people, r 178^. Since that period, the states have been unitL into what is called a tocderal government, formin: one gitat nation by the union of the province; which each enjoy a se})dratc jurisdiction, subj-a: at the same iauc to the decrees of a general coii. giess, composed of representatives from the diffe- rent states, and headed by a president chosen evci\ lour years. At the commencement of the independence >: AtnciiCd, the Lilian con5ii>Lcd ol iliirtetn stji'; #!r. I. 2icrior c mil with CO ■pcctio Deaf or.'v, vj IC, to I.' years, tl- sir labou sold lor they mil! )r a lonp; at the ili- lH and I,. hole car:. id Artliu pirited !<;: liascr, th^ I had no 'outh niih s of Aire. iiain ; bi; he moth.: minated ; people, ecu unit'. t, tormir;- ')rovinc'' , subji^c; neral co:: the difle. sen ever) idencc >: •en stdt'; iil\', but llircc have since been adJtd; ntul a* ihc Interior parts become more cultivated, it is likely tkt" number ot states will increase. Believe me, Willi compliments to the Middlcton family, your tjcctionate brother, HEKRY FRANKLIN'. LETTER IlL Arthur Middlcton to Iiis Mother, ff'a: ancc, provided with poles and ropes, and delivi us from the danger. Though Annapolis is thec.^; ot Maryland, Baltimore is the largest town n. piovince, and the most considerable place oi I 'd 1 29 Sasquei:: I'cat distar the Clit; [h banks, . pictures: jy the m'u ter; parti; ed from ; gs : this b an exqui: we travc endercd « roads, to us will ;vent it li s out cl upperii: to the lei: As we \y. e sunk t.; rses plui : Din the (]. fixed, ii: wallowc;'. er, at a i to our av and delivi > is thec.'t L town I!. ^lacc ot ■ in North America, after Philadelphia and Xew Y|lrk. The strt ts cross eacli other at right angles : tkf principal one is wide and handsome. Most of tfcp houses arc built oT brick, and, being modern, arc \v'cll constructed. On the south side of the Wllvn is a harbour, called the bason, which is capa- htk of containing two thousand sail of merchant- lit n ; the shore is lined with wharfs and store- uses. English, Scotch, French, and a great BMV Irish are to be found ariic)iicri,t the inha- bllants, who are very sociable between themselves, a^d hospitable to strangers. Dancing is a favou- rite amvisement; the young people frequently nc^gNe parties at each other's houses, where th'.-y Ijlrrily dance away tlie evening. JRoads that would have been deemed impassable flk England, and a country distinguisiied neither for ll^tility nor beauty, brought us to Washington, the fw federal city, where we are now staying, at the use ot a member of congress, who entertains us Mndly. My hand grows tired ; so you must for- jP^'e me for adding only, that I am your dutiful ARTHUR MIDDLETON. C 3 LETTER -% 30 LETTER IV. Mr. Heiirjj Franklin to Echiin Mkldhtvi: tllS t( hnmr 01 tl tr 01 ItlO! ,n g /n/vA//;-/ in; Dear Edwin^ THE afTcction 1 feel for vou Is not Irislv ■minisbed by having crossed the AUantic ; and a iSn liave an inclination to assure you of my rcgai\i, begin a correspondence, without fear of intrud: on the province of your brother ; since the col try we are in abounds sufficiently in novelty r variety, to supply us both with materials for c letters. I date this fronn Washington, a city formed upor, ' vast plan, though yet very far from being complete; J^'^'"' * and designed to be the capital of the whole emp;:' Before the separation of the American States \w Great Britain, Philadelphia was the seat of govcr ment ; but the other provinces growing jealous t: Pennsylvania should enjoy this privilege, it \\ agreed that a iaederal city, subject to the laws a regulations of congress alone, should be built an independent district, where the congress shou tation assemble for the purpose (^f making laws, and rr.. AHegn naiiina; the concerns of eovernment. Creek, laging The choice of situation was left to Gencr Washington, at that time president; and the nc city bears his name, as a testimony of the gratitu 'res I J ificcn i^ "I Middhln, ►u is not : tic ; and a ny rcgarc. of intrud- cc the COL novelty c "ials for c rmed upo ^complcti ^ole emp:: Stales fit t of govcr jealous I lege, it u. he laws a be built . ,rcss shou vs, and n;. to Gencr nd the iiv' le gratJtu:': •f }iis fellow citizens for his patriotism and wi.e j^ininisi ration. It was desirable to fix upon a Moi that should be central, removed from all dan- g|r of disturbance from a forei.>Tn enemy, in a si- niction favtturable to commerce and health, and ving the means of an ample supply of provi- i:s. These advantages are combined in the place ll'.ere Washington stands, besides that oi an ex- insive communication, by water, to the most dis- Int parts of the empire. Take )our map, and llace with me the course of tl;e rivers, that you Jllay he able to form a clear idea of tiic amazing cx- Unt of navigation from this city. 'I'iie Patownrac tlvtr, on which it is builr, takes its rise on the prrth west side of tlie Allegany Mountains, and, Iptcr many windings, for four hundred miles, falls ftto the Chesapeak Bay. The navigation oi tln.s Mver, from the city to the Chesapeak, is safe and tfesy. In its course it receives several large t reams, one of which falls into it at Washington, id is called the Kastern Branch of the Patowmac. From the Great Fall of the Patowmac there is a tee navigation, one hundred and ninety miles lovethe city, to Fort Cumberland. In an oppo- |ilc direction, the prodigious extent of communi- iation is more astonishing. By ascending the Aih'gun liver, from Pittsburgh, as far as French Creek, vuu reach Fort le Bceuf, distant fro m ssja'isle, a town situated upon Lake Erie, only ittecn miles ; whence goods may be conveyed by C 4 land "?! l7 •«/ n farld carriage. Lake Krle is three hundred mii:i long, ai)d ninety broad, and communicates wuii Lake Huron and Lake Michigan ; the former o:;.' thousand miles in circumlcrencc, the hitter no; quite so large. Many noble rivers lail into thcf:- lakes, aiter having watered immense tracts c: country in various directions, and supplied t!/ means ot communication to a vast distance. Froir. Presqu'isle, across Lake Erie to the Falls of Nia. gara, where nine miles must be passed over lani! ihe navigation of Lake Ontario, and the great rivi; *M. Lawrence, is opened on one side; and on ilc i)?!^er, that of Lake Superior, by a still shortc: h'.rHJ passage, at the Falls of St. Mary. This la^: lake is fifteen hundred miles in circumference, an: is supplied by forty rivers. Beyond this, the vvatc; coiTjmunication extends to a prodigious distance, through the Lake of tlie Woods to Lake Winni- peg, which is still larger than that of Lake Supc. nor. Compared with these, what are the lak(i and rivers of the old world ? But how I hav: wandered from Washington; it is time to rctui:. to it. The city is laid out on a neck of land, enclose' between the Eastern Brancli and the main streaii; of the Patowmac ; a territory called Columbia, subject to congress only. A magnificent plan vvai drawn by Monsieur L'Enfant, a Fienchman, an>. approved; but so few parts of it are yet finished, and so many trees remain growing within the bouTv bounc iiumb ^great . Ace - ft tendec lions, tcrsec .^ihese, from i }ic bu i^uce are boi |rces, The sc |or the '||iorial I, The |ome V pse. papito and ad ipents public govern k is a I |ngton The |r)mc s fient i ind th( I CO boundaries, that it has more the appearance of a number of villages, scattered in a wood, than one ^reat city. According to Monsieur L'EnFant's plan, it is in- tended to be divided into squares, or grand divi- iions, by streets running from north to south, in- r 1 , tcrsectcd bv others from cast to west. Besides applied t;,» •' ^ ^liese, are very broad streets or avenues, running from some of the most important squares and pub- lic buildings, in an oblique direction, which pro- i^uce a variety of fine prospects. These avenues arc bordered with broad gravel walks, planted with frees, and are named after the states of the union. Jhe squares are very numerous, and are designed fjpx tlie reception of statues, columns, or other me- iporialsof heroes and memorable transactions. j^ The houses are all to be of brick or stone, though Ijome wooden ones have been erected for present jjfse. Near the centre, on an eminence, stands the papitol, commanding a complete view of the eity ind adjacent country. It contains spacious apart- ipents tor tlie accommodation of the congress, and public oiHccs ior the executive department of the government, with the courts of justice, &c. Near ^ is a fine statue of that great man, General W^ash- fn.i^ton, on horseback. The house designed for the president is a hand- nt plan wa>; ' . ° . ^ ff)mc stone edifice, in which the principal ap.irt- hman, aiu. ^ . \ v \ L c • u J y^"^ '^ ^^ 3n oval form. Between this buildinj^ [}t nnished - ^ idrcd mi! licatcs w;: former o:; • latter :,: 1 into till' tracts c: PP nee. Froir. ills of Nil. over land I great riv^: and on ibc still shortt: This la^: erence, an: s, the wate; js distance, ike Win 111. Lake Supc- the lakc) K>w I have ; to retui:: 1, enclosed lain streair. Columbia \v , ind the Capitol is erected a larjrc hotel, which is iihin me | ^ r- • bor.r»- brick, S4 I brick, ornamented with stone. Two fine malls, intended to be embellished by a variety of ele. gant buildings, run from the Capitol to the prcsi. dent's house, till they meet on the banks of the river, where they terminate. Places are marked out for many more noble, useful public buildings, but few of them are begun. There is to be a marine hospital, a general exchange, a city hall, churches, colleges, market^houses, theatres, public walks and gardens. Two streams, Rccdy Branch and the Tiber, run through the city, and will supply the inhabitants amply with water. It is impossible to survey the incomplete be. ginnings of this great city, possessing so many ad- vantages, without a warm wish, that at some future 1 period it may arise to that eminence that is adapted 1 to the head of an extensive empire; and that it may become the scat of arts, learning, and virtue. About a mile from Washington stands George J Town, a place of considerable trade, having a 'mall colii'^^e tor catholics. We went by water to Alexandria, another 'o'vn, seven miles lower down t^ e river, and had a c'lirm- easiriix succession of s^na 11 ing row through a pi hills and bedutilul valleys, intersected with st> tair ^, the banks ot which are adorned with clun-ps of trees and pleasure grounds. Alexandria is one ot the most elegant towns in the United Siatcs. It stands on a small plain; the itreets cross each otner ; and spacious squares add to le malls, ' of ele- le prcsi. ;s of the jked out ings, but a marine hurchcs, ic walks 1 and tlie ipply the to Its beauty, convenience, and healthiness. Tlis houses are chiefly built of brick, and the large, commodious quays are lined with houses and § stores : tor this town rivals Washington in trade ; exporting the produce of the back settlements to \i the West Indies, and even to Europe. ^ H.jving written a longer letter than I intended, I hasten to conclude, and assure you that 1 am sm- ccrely your's, HENRY FRANKLIN. )lete be- many ad- fie future s adapted d that it d virtue. George a 'mall er •.'".vn, a c'virm- ot ^ma!l St' I ■iir*'', UH'ps of owns in ain ; the area add to LETTER V. Ariliur Middkion to his Brother Ednin. U'aslungion, Dear Brother, THE Falls of the Patowmac, a few miles from this city, were too attractive to be neg- lected. The smaller falls do not deserve the name of a cataract; but they cause such an obstruction to navigation, that a canal, a mile and a half long, has been cut to remt^dy the incoi>venience. Above these falls, at a place where the river is confined between mountains, a passage over it is formetl by 5 a grand bridge of one arch, an hundred and twenty : feet wide. The navigation at the Great Falls is % made easy by a canal with ten locks, where the C6 water .^6 water rushes down with trcmenclows impetuosity, over a \in\^c ol rocks, in several difterenl cata- racts, winding alierwanls with great velocity along the bottom ot the precipices, whose rocky cra^s arc so inierniixed with trees as to produce a bcau- lilul cflt'Ct. Lroni want oi other materials, or be- cause tliey arc at hand, the people in the neigh- bourhood bnild their cottages with tragmcnta of these rocks. A gentleman at Alexandria furnished us with horses, and accompanied us to Mount V^ernon, the seat of the late General Washington ; an object oi curiosity to those who revere his memory. It stands nine miles below Alexandria, on the banks of the river ; but we were oblrged to make a larger circuit by land, on account of the numerous creeks that fall into the Patowmac. We got into thf^ midst of a thick wood, where several roads cross each other : unfortunately, we took a wrong one ; it began to grow daik ; and the weather, which had been sultry hot in the day, became very cold, a sudden alteration that, is frequent in this climate. Thus uncomfortably, situated, we knew not what to do, as we dreaded passing the night in this soli- tary forest After wandering about two or three hours, I espied a glimmering light through the trees. 1 his raised our hopes. We made up to it, and found it proceeded irora a small farm-house, where one of the family was sick : we gained an <:iitranct', and related our forlorn circumstances. The I tiiositv, It cata- y along y craiTs a beau. , or be. neigh- icnts of ,js with non, the hjcct oi ■>ry. It c banks a larger s creeks nto the is cross g one; which y cold, climate. ot what lis soli- r three gh the 2 up to -house, ried an stances. The I i ije good woman took pity on us, and regaled us with some salted pork out of her pantry; she then crowded her family two or three in a bed, in order to leave one empty ior us, and in the morning sent a negro with us to conduct us to Mount V'cr- non, which is an eminence, commanding delight- ful views both of land and water. The house is only of wood, painted to resemble liewn stone; it hris a long portico, supported by eight pillars. The dwelling-house is in the centre, and the ofBces are contained in the wings, which communicate by a covered way witli the main build- ing. In one of the parlours hung a portrait of the general, said to be a striking likeness. A certain austerity of countenance struck me with awe as 1 looked at it : he was rather tall, had a command- ing aspect, a full, broad chest, and strong limbs: his eyes were large and grey, and Uis nose long ia proportion to his face. '• You do well," said Mr. Franklin, observing my attention fixed on the picture, ** to contemplate the features of that trua hero, as every thing is interesting that tends to elucidate the character of such a distin^uisiied person; but above all," continued he, *♦ study and imitate his virtues: he was eminent ior disinetrest- edricss, modcatiou, love of liberty, and real pa- triotism, in not only rescuing his country from a yoke, that he considered oppressive, but when he bad attained the height of power, disdaining to assume a rank, that a man of less principle and more 3.S more ambition might liavc claimed, as tlic reward of his services; and contenting himself, like Cm- cinnatiis of old, with a private station, till called afrain by liis fellow- citizens to take the helm of government. His death was honoured with the lamentations of his countrymen, who regarded him as the father of their common-wealth. The farmers and common people live in what are called log-honses, because they are made of the bodies of trees, which are rou^lJy squared, and placed crosswise one above another ; the ere. vices between them are stopped with clay, and the roofs are covered with small pieces ot wood, called shinp'es, cut in the sliripe ol tiles. Two doors', which frequently supply the place of windows, are made by sawing away a part ol the trunks that form the body of the house: the chimney, which is always placed at one end ol the root, is also made of the trunks o{ trees; but the back is made of clay, to prevent fire from communicating to the wooden wall. The doors are hung on wooden hinges, and most oi ihern have no locks, a log oi wood being the usual fastening. Tlif^se simple habitations make an odd appear- and, dwd require neither carpenter, bricklayer, nor smith ; for tlicre is no iron or nails about them. Two men aie sulficient to complete one of thcin in four or five days, so that a new settler need not be long without a house. The floor is raised a little above the ground, and covered with planks : two I so reward ke Cin. II called helm of vitii the egardcd in what made of squared, the ere- and the 1, called 3 doors, indows, nks that , wiiicli is also is made g to the wooden a log ot appcar- yer, nor It them. F them ctd not aiscd a jlanks : two 3 1 two large beds lodge all the f.m ly. In summer, the children think it no hardship to sleep on the ground, wrapped in a blanket; though tliey have been ac- customed in winter to sleep on a fe.!ther-bed. Drawers are conveniencics not often seen in these log.houses: the clothing of the family is hung round the room on peg<;, or over a long pole. Though these btiilding?? are not very ele- gant, I can assure you the inside of a log-jiousc, blazing with a large wood fiie, is a comfortable _ sight to a weary traveller on a cold evening. M We scarcely pass ten or twelve miles without seeing a tavern, as they call inns in this country. They are all built with wood, and resemble one another, having a porch in front, the length of the house, almost covered with handbills; they have no sign, but take their name irom the person that keeps the house, who is often a man of conse- quence; for the profession ol an innkeeper is far f more respected in America tl.an in England. In- stead of supplying their guests as soon as they ar- rive, they make every body conform to one hour, for the different meals ; so that you must oIu'h go without your dinner, or delay your journey t:ll the innkeeper pleases to jay the cloth. The ac- commodations are very indifltrent in many place*>; at breakfast, you must be contented witli had tea or coffee, and small slices ol ha:n fried, to which arc sometimes added eggs and a broiled fowl. At dinner, salt beef and roast fowls is tiic common fare. 40 fire, with rum and water to drink; and at night you are regaled with coffee, tea, and ham. There are always several beds in one room, and strangers are sometimes obliged to sleep together; the sheets are mostly brown, and seldom changed till they are dirty, whether lew or many people have slept in them. In some places we have travelled through woods for miles together : these woods are com- posed of oaks, of every species; black walnut trees, used much by the cabinet-makers; tulip trees; the Kalmia with red blossoms; and, in marshy land, cypresses and cedars abound. The appearance of vines creeping up some of the trees, induced rae to look for grapes; but 1 found it was only a poisonous weed, that caused my hands to blister and swell very much. Indian corn is frequently cultivated by the farmers: its tall yellow heads, when near ripe, look beautiful ; but 1 feel more pleasure in the sight of wheat fields, because they remind me of Old England. In whatever quarter of the world I am, believe xoe always, Your affectionate brother, ARTHUR MIDDLETON, 1 4vi tcrs t seen, larlv i to thJ! 'J'h< as a I induct week i tural c \ it. M he loo liie nij can in sent b and h But pc discus: from ti give ol LETTER 41 at night There rangers z sheets II they V'C slept :hrough e corn- walnut ; tulip and, in 1. The of the I found sed my an corn its tall il ; but fields, believe ^ON, FTER 1 LETTER \T. Arthur Middlcton to his Siller Catharine. iras/iin^ton. MY DEAR GIRL, THOUGH I grnerally address my let- ters to Edwin, vet I think the objects we have seen, in an excursion to Monticelio, so particu- larly adapted to your taste, that you have a claim to this letter. The respect Mr. Franklin had for Mr. Jefferson, as a gentleman, a man of worth, and a scholar, J induced him to accept his invitation to spend a H week or two at his house, and see some of the na- * tural curiosities of the mountains which suiround j it. Mr. Jelferson is thought an able statesman; he took an active part in the revolution, and was the man who prop.»setl the declaration of Ameri- can independence. He was the first ambassador sent by the United States to the court of France, an d h as avowe d 1 iimst' If a staunci hli reuuniican But politics are a subject that Mr. Franklin never discusses in this country, as his sentiments differ from the Americans, and he is neither willing to give offence, nor relinquish his own principles. He esteems Mr. Jefferson as a philosopher, and ad- nurcs his xNotes upon V irginia, \' ia, which have esta- blished 42 1 Wished his character as a man of sense and a good writer. He farms his own estate, which iio Foiul o[ horses, tlicy do not riilj well. river, , Ad- cupiccl f Tobacco is one ot the staple cominolitie^ raisetl What in this part of the countiy. As soon as all dant^cr ! T\ 10 covcret na ked, ot trust IS part, the cultivator cliooses a siiiall sp.:t \ ot j'^round, upon which prodiirious piles of wood are burnt, in order to destroy the weeds and iii- [ inra, but ranee o mall pc- between kablc Tiar nguis lyG ualiiy sects. The warm ashes are then diig in with the earth, and the seed sown. Rushes are next strewed over the gro i;i; but it otttn happens .thcit a large Mack lly, ot the l)ceile kind, devours \^^^\ the shoot, as soon as th.ey aj)pear, when they are .obliged to he picked oil by hand. \\'hen the ene- parts o I estates, 1st others The for- e a taLU* j^j Iplaiits are of a pr(jper size, tliey arc transplanted i iiiUo tiie ficUU, and set out on tiiilocks at a small fdist.mcc trom each other. In this sta^re the roots c f re trcqueniiy nevo lev iwre d by worms, an d fl les deno- sii till :r eggs between the leaves and the stem ; atul Av. re It nut tor the continual care of the slaves, who mu: Idli f th o |Euc employed in clearing them ol their eneniie ''|-no=;t ot the plants would be destio\ed. W'Ik f nle - ^ '^ have attained ])eifeciion, they aie cut dow irginiai.s n n, •cqueni ;s, serv ive stoo j,, tnd j)egs are driven into the stems, by winch they I ^:e hung up to dry, in large houses built for that o:^e. are thev ' ^^ ben properl) cured, the leaves are tied up in Iftcu very T'lMul les, packed in hogsheads, and sent to the next hipping town for exportation, \Vh ere the roads are the if iC good and diy, it is usual to drive tv.o large favou! D pins 50 pins of wood into the ends of the hogshead, whicli serve for axles; to these they fasten a pair of shafts, forming the hogshead into a kind of car- riage, drawn by one or two Iiorscs. By the process 1 have descrihed, you may sec tint a great number of hands must be employed, and much labour performed, before a poor tng- lishman car enjoy a pipe of tobacco. Tlius are we indebted to each other for the smallest gratifica- tions ; nor can the richest or most powerful indi- vidual boast that he is independent of his fellow creatures: for our Heavenly Father has bound us all in one chain of mutual fellowship and good ofiices. The culture of tobacco has of hue gradually yielded to that of wheat. The rank of the cultiva- tor is, in some degree, regulated by the produce he raises. Those who grow tobacco and Indian corn are called planters; and those whose crops arc small grain, tarmeis. We have visited the chief towns in this province : none of them are very large. Richmond, the capital, is situated on the northern side of James River, immediately be. low the Falls. The lower town extends along the bank of the river ; but the houses of those not en- gaged in trade torm the upper town, and stand upon a hill, whicli commands a prospect of the river and its islands, wiili the extensive valley through which it flows, and the numerous falls that break its stream. On the opposite side of the river riv the vir bv sea ron is a nan the be a the dorn F. a cui tome a sin if cai whic as wc coulc s.ind slaves I Th, 1 i } H I City, , I as wcl ' practi( ferrnp '):;d 111 <^a(j pr ll 1 whicli )air of [)i car- lay sec ployed, )r Eng- lius arc ;ratifica- till incli- s fellow 30und us ind good gradually ^ cultiva- produce d Indian I sc crops sited the them are tuated on lately be | along tlic I e not en- nd stand | ict of the 1 •e valley tails that Ide of tlic river the counti) u^cs into a gentle crViincncc; and the little, but wcll-built tuwn ot Manchester, en- vironed by cultivated fields, which are ornamented by couiulcss numbers of trees, and dotted with scattered houses, embellishes the sweet, variegated, romantic pcrspcciive. The Capitol, or State- house, is a vast pile of red brick : even the pillars and or- naments are of that material. It is esteemed one of the grandest edifices in America ; but it is more to be adtnireil io? its magnitude than its elegance. In the centre is a circular vestibule, lighted by a dome, and eiiibellished by a statue of General W^ishington, and a bust ot La Fa, nte. From the southern shore the river is crossed by a curious bridge, built upon fifteen large flat. bot- tomed boats, secured by strong chains and anchors: a simple contrivance, that can be easily replaced if carried away by the shoaU of ice in the winter, which frequently come down with such force as would overthrow almost any stone bridge they could erect. Richmond coiilnins about five thou- sand inliabitants, more than one third of whom arc slaves. The falls in the river extend six miles abo\"c the city, and from the rocks that obstruct the passage, as well as the descent, navigation would be im- practicable, but for a canal which opens an unin- terrupted communication to the Blue Mountains, aiul in some seasons, beasts, wiih light burthens, *idn proceed still turther. D Si Before I BitJorc the revolution, W'ill'amsbui)^ wjs the capital ot \'ir^ini.i; the removal oF the legislative body to Richinoiid has reduced this town to a deserted, ioilorn eoiulitii):i. The C'lpitol, which is tailing to ruins, and the College (/t William and Marv, arc relics ot its torincr eon>s((|uence. Law, medicine, natural and ntoial j)hil()S()phy, niaihemaiies, and modern lan- giiages, are taught to the students, who .ire not nu- merous. But little trade is carried on at this phice ; and the vSociety is thought very gciueel. 1 paid a visit, myselt, to the hospital tor lunatics, biit cannot praise it tor good managetnent. Yoik is a small town, not very flattering to the feelings ol an ringli>hman ; as it was here thjt Lord Cornwaliis suriendcd his arniv to the united forces of the Americans, and their allies the Fieneh. A Hat, uninteresting country, lies between these towns and Hampton, a small place situated at the 2ii*juih ol James River; across which we were ter- ried to Norfolk, the only sea-port ot consequence in ^'irginia. Having no rival, its trade to Kuiope, the northern stales, and ilic West Indies, is flou- rishing. 1 lie exports chiclly consist ot tobacco, flour, and variv)us kinds ot lumber. The town is an irregular, dirty, ill-built group ot wooden hou ses :hielh surrounded bv unwholesome swamps, from which arises an intolerable stench, that causes giievous maladies to the iidubitants. 'ilie Tl !)c i'li ' \\\ 4 t!ic v.h ii I t Ul c iiial sine I '^' \ state r)3 'as tlic islativc n to a and the ot its iral and ■rn lan- not m:- at this iccl. 1 uiiatics, ir to the crc thcit united ics the en thfsc *l at the crc tcr- cqucnce Kuiope, is flou- obacco, town is wooden lolcsotnc stench, 1' 'i \ ibitant; Tl The yellow fever frcciucntly carries oil" .threat num- bers; and 1 believe \\\:\ increase the evil, b\- tb.c imnioderate u-^c (d \s\\\c ami stroiTg lii^iiors by WMV (d prevention. 'i he day alter oi'.r arrival beint; Sunday, we went to chureh, and were liurt at observing ib.at t!ic ner^roe-. aie not SiiOered u> tningle with the wlii'.es, but are confined to a p.ntieul.ir place ; as ii ihe uni'/crNal raiher of all disiiihwted bis bIe)S- i;\tTs in prt^portin:; to the complexion ol Ins ciea- imc^, wlien we aie e\p;r>sly lohl, ibit '• every nun iiiall be rewanled acct.'iding to bis worlis." I have since b.eard that tins cuslo:^^ [).'.:vdils throughout G(!or_L^ia, Carolina, and \"ir^^inl.t. Froiu i!ie ruinous state ot the chnrehes in ircncral in thi.' part (d \'ir- ginia, and the negligence oi the .Ir.tics of the ^d»hatb, I am led to suspect that religio * has not Ii> due influ- ence on the people. Many of the churches stand in the midst of solitary woods, and it does not appear that any persons are appointed to attend to them. Grave-yards arc often private property, and very profitabie to their owners, in Norfolk. In dille*- rent parts ol the country 1 have observed, near large plantatiojis, bur;;Mg-grounds for the family, walled in; an accommodation, when church-yards are scattered at a great distance from each other. The tobacco ol \^iiginia is in high repute, which, in S(jme degree, may be attributed to the houses (A iaspection that are established in every district where it is eaUivated. The inspcct(jrs D J exaniinc ic t\Jiinii\z tlic quality of tath hogshead of tobacco, diid it they dpprovc it, mark it witli a hot iron, before it can be sriipped; which is an effectual re- straint on any imposition that might otherwise he practised, by mixing good and bad togcth.cr. My letter is drawn out to so great a length, that I lear vou will be as tired with reading as I am with writing ; so, without any further addition, I will say, farewell. HENRY FRANKLIN. I in(( riaf cha da\- nio! wii LETTER VIII. Arthur Middlcton to his Brother Eduin. Dear Edwin, AS Mr. Franklin is preparing a packet for England, I must add my remarks on that part of Virginia we have already seen. The houses, in many places, have an antique appearance, like the old manor houses in England, and arc built with brick and stone; but most of the modern ones are only of wood, and always have a porch, or pent-house, in the front, which is often carried all round the dwelling, and affords a shady retreat, in the heat of the day, from the scorching rays of tlie sun, which, in bright weather, arc iniens'" i jbacco, i)t iron, tual rc» wise be r. My t I fear m with , 1 will hi' ill. 'oijvlk, packet :hat part antique .iigiand, linost oi iys h?.ve lis often a shadv |orchin)T I Ji) intense at noon; though tlie atmosphere is as va- riable here as in other parts of America, oiten en a! g'^^g rom hot t( .Id o cold severcJi times in tl>e same th day. In the centre of genteel houses thcr« is mostly a hall or saloon, furnished like a parloui, if nuii'h o with sofas, ike. where the family pass their lime, for the sake of enjoying a thorough Irau ght of air. Tlic heat and unwholesomienf^s of the climnfe give the common people, cspecijliy, most saiiow complexions; but few of tlie women .;re hai.'i- some, and the bonnets thev wear to shade thrm- selves from the sun, make tiiem look still plainer than nature has formed them : the caul sits close to the back of the head, ar the frfi"t nr^uprtc. liLcau umbrella, over the face ; so that they cannot look wt any thing behind them without turning the whole body round. The rich are extremely fond of pleasure, or what my mother would call dissipa. lion, such as gaming and horse-racing. Cards and dice would be a punishment to me ; but the delights of the chace and the course 1 like very well : and were it not for my mentor, Mr. Franklin, I could never resist an invitation to either. He tells me that I look only at momentary gratifications, with- out considering the consetjuences ; that racing leads to gambling and bad company; and that hunting mostly ends in a carousal. '1 he common people are extremely fond of an ler, arc J entertainment ciilled a baibacuc, which is the I i uuen! D meeting .Of) t incc ling c-f a jovial pJlt^•, oficn i,". tl.e woods, in pari.iKC- nt a stiirgCDii, oi a p\(r rciaslcd \vlu)lc in ilic Dpcii iiii, on a sdit ol liuidlc, over a ^low fire. The fc.ist is too generally succeeded b\- ])lent\' of 11- que-r, and the guest* sen.irafe, unable to walk hotiie in a straight line. Dnnkiu'.; n one of their viees, und lunsaway with great part oi" then gains. As a coiintei balance to these (iiFett'>, iliev are lively and hospitable, and have hnmanelv adopted a rode ct laws, in sonie rcspeci; ^^inniar to lIiaL oi Peii:'.- t:)lvaT.;, by which no crime hi:t preniedilatcd innri!. r is piii-.is'ied with tieath. \'irginia is ir.tcr- s<:ct'.'d by numerous rivers and creeks, and in many pails Cohered w;ih iv)re>ls of niapies, pines, cedars, tiic ciinibi:)g trutDpct-llGwer tice, il.e Carvdinian ailvpicc, Cornel tree-, walnnts, laurels, bay trees, tulip trees, popkn;, eak^, sumachs, acacias, and nu!w others : it produces also a ^r(at \arierv of Iragrant plants and ilovvering shrubs ; and tlic groycj; are iidjabited by multitudes oi bir'ls, who sing charniingS,-, anil some ol them delight the ev^* with their bvaunlul plumage. The notes oi the mocking bird aie the most melodious of jnv. It h about tb.e si/.e of a lark, hus a long tail, and the colour oi the body is a deep blue, i his bird inii- tates the song oi every bird he hears, but excels them all; and so conscious are th.cy ol his superi- ority, that when be begins to ioilow any paiticulur bud, he llies awav, as il asliamed of his own per- ic loiinance. 1'licic arc none, however, but the mocking " mo son vcr nr^ bav,- Th( sma f c w flies, more i ^''^ i utters tive ! 1 almos are m in th J noise, their great s hardly were o draordi -jCountr ifire to Iplaces, \\.is ch the sk\ iultry, an app i^iid a d I .0/ K)ds, t'") I'J 111 tlic The f li- re V o I 11 K lU)!UC ir vices, A s a l; lively ,1 a ro(\L. mockin^j bird, to be coftipnrcd to our English songsters. The blue bird and the red bird arc both very handsome ; the first is not bigger than a lin- ne^ but its dark bright-blue licad, winirs, and back, when it flies, make a brilliant appearance. T!ie red bird is of a fine vermilion colour, with a small tuft ot feathers on his head. I have seen a few humming birds, fluttering about ]il;c butter- flies, but their colours are not so bright as those () i V more to th e southwarc I * » » •• (1. Th.e whip.poor-^vill is a neuiiatcd \ is ir.tcr- i!i iiicjuy s, cedars, 'arolinian jav trees, cias, and .uicty u\. 1 the bird whose note resembles those words, which lie utters in the dusk of th.e e\'ening, in the most plain- tive manner, and often continues his complaint till almost morning. I- roin bird" whicii ^'ou know i are mv favourites, I nuist descend to froi's which, m the 1 ow di ik grounds, make sucn an extr.iDrdinary di ! noise, that it rcsemt)!es a wtiistie bh whil ^t some o f ant '1,-,. It il who le ev^* :s c> hv f I hi It i ar.d the I their companions, called bull frogs from their great size, cro.'.k so harsh and loud, vou would liardly believe t!ie sound came irom a frog. \\c 1 were one day spectators of a scene terrific and ex- traordinarv to us, thoui'h not very nnusual in this country. Some negroes had been ordered to set fire to large (juantities ot brushwocnl, in difTerent I imi- Mll\ III exce places, which is a common practice. That d.w Is I was chosen, the sk\- serene lecause it was jui fectl v calm an ,1 |s super:- aiticular |)wn per- Ibut the knocking but m the alternoon it became sultry, and streams ot hot air gave tokens of an approaching storm : the 1 lOMZon grew dai k iiind a dreadful whirlwiml arose \\'c dismounted, D an and got upon ;in ciirincnce to observe its progrci?. It advanced towards u^ with great switiness, car- lying with it clouds cjt dust, dry Icivcn, and pieces ot rotten wood ; and in many places it levelled the ience-iails, and unroofed the sheds ior cattle. Alarmed tor our safety, we made every endeavour to reach a place of shelter, but in vain ; in two minutes the whirlwind overtook us. 'Ihc sliocl; was violent. It was hardly possible to keep our feet; and we nearly lost our breath. In a very short space, however, it was passed ; but a storm of thunder and lightning succeeded, accompanied by heavy rain, which drenched us to the skin. As soon as we could recover ourselves, we looked round to observe the course of the whirlwind, and were astonished to see a prodigious column of fire, . in a pert ot the wood, i\here we afterwaids found 1 that the brushwood had been lighted. The flames rose, in some spots, above the trees. We had now a new enemy to avoid, as the fire gained upon us J so rapidly, that we v/cre airaid ol being overtaken, iu spite of our utmost speed. A general aUnn took place. The negroes irom several neighbour- ing plantations assembled; and in order to check j its progress, and pievent one surrounding confla- gration, set fire to the underwood on .ill sides a-licad of that alieady kindled, so as lo meet it, aui . by destroying every thing that could serve it for food, to extinguksh it. These new fiies were care- fully watched by a number of men, with hoes and rakt'S, towns object aniiisei The would and be cgrcn?. 59 rakes, to guard them from spreading, except towards the great Hrc, which in time they cfl'cctu- ally put out. The sight was tremendous aiul sub- lime. Rolling clouds of black smoke, between which appeared volleys of flame ; the crackling ul the trees; the terror ol il»e birds, disturbed from their native hai as, by a danger as terrible as it was unknown : all announced a convulsion of na- ture, and made me fancy myself at the mouth of a volcano, disgorging its inward fires, Leaving you to heiglucn the picture from your own imagination, (for it falls far short of the reality,) 1 conclude, with tlic most tender affection, your's, ARTHrR MIODLKTOX. LETTER IX. J'l'tJnir Middliton ij h:s Brotfur K,Liiu. Dkar Edwi n, WE have not pissed through many great towns in our journey hither ; yet we have founh in the tree, and setting a trough beneath it, t ) catch the liquor that runs fronj the wound. TLe people who live on the borders ol the swamp diivc .dl their cattle into it to teed ; but they would lo:e th'^m if tluv were not careful to train them to come home ( iion out, inil( bcl bac! quai tlieii win in t! iargt com i creat I Tl andC I with I made I and u ' to it. are sc , weic ^;ad I j a mix ' solid eaten, ; and s( As Virgi ioitn turke^ i G\ liomc every evening. When a frcsli herd is turned (Jill, the farmer sends with them two or three old milch cows, accustomed to tlie place, with little bells fastened round their necks. 1 he cows come back, regularly to be nuiked, and their new ac- . quaintance follow the sound of the bells; and at ' their return arc feasted with a handful of salt, which attaches them to their home. It is said, that in the rece>ses of this swampy forest, there are large iierds of cattle, that have -strayed and are be- come wild ; be^iiies beais, wu!\ ls, deer, and other creatures, that are its native mliabitants ; but we did not penetrate far enough to see ilicm. iThe taverns along the coast between Norfolk and Charlestown are wretched, and the tare accords ^ with them. We could often get no bread but that :] made of Indian corn, which is very coarse, strong, \ 1 and unpleasant to people who are not accustomed \ ? to it. It eats best in cakes, because the large leaves and red 2re seldom well baked in the midclle. So badly suiiplv a weie we enteitained in some places, that we were I ^lad to satisfy our hunger witii a dish of hominy, a mixture of Indian corn and beaus, boiled to a ' bliore; some at jilding ; rceable. in.iT one lie parts a horse ; ad if be ly a few r gushes t-r (lows lie canal folk ; its ttributed w m the ih trees, !cn ilicm ass, aiK iint-r an '1 I are sen constant | lid plenty so II g a largo atli ii, to d. The Imi) diivc lid sort of pudding, with m:!k. I'li's h ofte atcn, cillicr hot or cold, with bacon or iiesh meat ; and some of the negroes almost live upon it. As wc advanced towards the southern part of \' b d" 1; >uli il 1 ore i irginia, we saw great numbers (-i larue bli bird: 111 oiin and plumage resembling a tuikey called to come home turkey buz/:aidb. They feed on putrid carcases, w hich 6i2 which has induced the inhabitants of Carolina to prohibit the destroying them, as they think they are useful in removing bodies in a state of decay, that would increase the unhealthincss of the cli- I mate. After passing the Dismal Swamp, we entered North Carolina. On the side next the sea it is a St covered with forests. It hai vast plain, alnio pened, one night, that we were belated, and lost our way in one of these trackless wilds. It was not long before a light, glimmering through the trees, revived our drooping spirits with the expectation that a house was not fa^ off; but what was our sur- prise and disappointment, on riding up to the spot, to find that it moved from us, then drew nigh, and then swiftly took flight into the woods. Whilst we were considering the cause of this extrjiordi- nary appearance, I perceived the same sort of light in a bush close to our side, and in a few minutes all the trees in the forest sparkled with them. Mr. Franklin presently recollected that tl illumina- tion proceeded from the fire fly, a smali insect that swarms in summer in the American woods, dispersing th'^nr light in all pans in the night; though they arc se!di-m s- en in {\\c day, because they hide thrrnsclvcs in roLten wood. I pocketed a few for examination, aivl lound tlicm of a rcddibh brown colour. 'i\\G li^^hi comes from under the wings; and when they rise m the air, looks like sparks, appearing and disappearing every moment. It I rolina to link they o\ decay, ■ the cli- E entered sea it is a It hap. and lost It was not the trees, pectation 5 our sur- the spot, nigh, and Whilst rxtr.'iordi- oi light minutes m. Mr. lumina- i insect woods, night ; because ockcted rcddiah ider the ks like omcnt. It It i^ a i^reat reliof, in travelling through these woods, to alhiy our thirst with wild strawberries, which grow here pleniifully. The green fruit on tlie trees promise also an abundance of wild plums, grapes, and blackberries. \'ariou3 kinds ol medicinal plants and roots are found here, par- ticularly ginsing; snake-root; and lion's heart, which is thought a sovt-reign remedy for the bite of a serpent. W^e sometimes exchan^^e the gloomy forest lor the oprn savannah, or pasture ground, mostly covered with cane grass, resembling the stalks of green corn, ard afTording excellent ft^jd for cattle. I am no cov,jrd ; but the pale, sallow, sickly countenances of the iiihabitants, and ihe numbers we have found indisposed with bilious fevers and agues, makes me dread a fit of illness. Nature generally provides a remedy for every evil. This country would probably be more unhealthy than it is, were it not that the trees in the low country are loaded with vast quantities of a lon;j, spongy kind of moss, which exhales tlie unwhole- some vapours from the stagnant waters. We have been at Charlestown but a few days, and have taken up our abode at a boarding-house, where we are supplied with lod^^in-^ and food : but we arc seldom at home, as we accept all invitatKjns; our design being to see as much as possible of the people, as well as the countiy. Ilivii^g an en- gagement to dinner, and scarcely time to prepare for 64 tor it, I must close my letter with most affection, ate remcmbianccs to all my friends in Old Eng. land. Adieu. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER X. Mr, H, Franklin to Edvcard Middlcion. I fine nu)>t SttHhl t pro|t \ esse C/uirltstonn. Dear Edwin, I CAKXOT seal up a packet that I am going to send to my brother, without enclosing a letter for you. Carolina is divided into North and South. The eastern side, towards the ocean, through which we have lately travelled, is a low, swampy country, intersected with creeks and ri- vers; and from its moisture, the heat of the climate, and profusion of vegetables, extremely unhealthy. Newhern, though a poor place, is the largest town in North Carolina. The houses arc built with wot)d ; ,ind a tew public ctlifices only arc of brick. We have passed through several other small towns, but they have no particular clainjs to description. Charlcstown is the capital of South Carolina. It is situated on a tongue of land, formed by the con- fluence (Tection- Id i^ng- :ton. I G.i litOll. irlcstoiiii. hat I am closing a orth and ocean, is a low, and ri- climatc, lihealthy. largest re built lly arc of \1 other lauiis to llina. It |he con- fluence )rnaments < The outwar( app caran g- ce is often neglected whea 66 when llic inside is commodious and well furfii'^herl , tliough tliey are sell* •. rf»rrarkab!y neat, nutwith- standing the numcru' train ot negro scrvanis iliut arc kept in opulent families. 1 iic streets, instead of being paved, are covered with a loose sand, ground to a fine powder by the rnultiiude of carriages that pass through them. In windy weather, the dust is intolerable ; and, after a shower, the passenger^; would sink into the mufl, were it not tor narrow brick ioot-paihs, which run before the houses. Pumps are placed at shoit distances; but the water has a brackish taste, that is very disagreeable. The mode of living is ex. tremcly luxurious. Wlusi families keep a coach or a chaise. The ladles arc never seen to walk on foot; and the men often ride. Twenty negro and mulatto slaves are commonly employed by people of the midille rank, in domestic offices ; and even the childien are attended by a number of little nc. groes of their own age, who are obliged to comply with tlieir humours, and form them to habits of tyranny from their infancy. Arihur cannot bcdr this, and is continually giving lessons of humanity and moderation to his cnnjp.inions. The hosj)iialuy of the inhabitants of Carolir^a towards strangers, their gf?ncr /..'ty to persons in distress, auti tl.eir unfeeling treatment of their slaves, show that the humau breast is capable of cherishing qualities iluectly opposite to each other. Tiicy are expensive in their iuncials, thinking ii a mar': J t niark femaiii tijtis a termed Soul puni'^li •re inil fender judges Bi )(lc o liic bcrn pr |eriod. ijuestioi |::mani( fiat the f'taied, False Vhiist tian to 1 aiih ; lere vei I ulture ( fope, I Vhcr th( )r Mav, [roes fill welvc d )f six or Ut no E I ^7 \ covered .T bv the irfjisiierl , • mark of rcupcct to tlie deceased, (o convey their iiolwith- femains to their last abode with splendid decora- ^auts that tijiis and melancholy pomp, which may truly be Itrmcd the most absurd of vanities. South Carolina has not yet adopted ilie humane punishments ot Pennsylvania. Dcaih and whipping hem. Ill ft: inilicted more often than in Kuropc. No dc- id, altera fender is allowed to an accuscil ntgro; and \\\% the mufl, judges have power to condemn hitn to wh.itevcr .vhich run ii >de of death they please. at short 1 iic importation ol negroes from Africa ha6 taste, that keen prohibited, at different times, for a limited ng is ex. |eriod. There is a party for botli sides of the a coach or Question. Unfortunately, interest prevails over ) walk on I'.Jnianity and justice ; but it is generally allowed negro and fi'U the slaves in this country are much better 3y people •tated, in all re:^pects, than formerly. and even I talsc opinions lead to erroneous practice. little nc. IVhilst it is considered a deiTr.ulation for a white to comply fnan to labour, .Oavet; must be had to cultivate the habits of f^iiii; particularly the rice swamps, which are nnot bear |ere very numerous and extensive : and as the humanity |L»lture of that grain diffcis from any t!iing in Eu- |opc', 1 will relate the process usually a^iopicd. Carolii^a |^hcr the ground is turned \vy in furrows, in April "rsons in l)r Mav, a woman throws in the seed, and the ne« of their trees lill them up. The plant shoots up in ten or apable of jwelvc days ; and when it ha^ attained the heigh.t ich other. >f six or seven inches, the field is overflowed, so hinkin'T it Ut no more than the tops of the blade can be seen. a mar '111 In GS I In a Few weeks the water is turned ofT, to gl\ c [\.: j^^ |^^ negroes an opportunity of weeding the rice; wi.. . ^jjjj ^.j tlint is done, the field is again covered with w.K( , nix-ssivt till the crop is ripe, ^v!lich is known by the yelii/. tanis \ C(;loui- ol ll:e e.n-, iuid the hardness ot the sic:: . ^^^i^j^j^ When reaj)ed, it is kept in stacks till winter: I' ' t^^. \l\^ more is to 'nc doiic beiore it is exported, h ^ujI^c'i] tiire.siied and put into a small wooden house, fixe; ( 'l"Ju'i( upon lour pillar-;, wiib. a iar<4e sieve pl.sced in t..||.i,j • ^ ceiling: into i!, is sie\e the rice is tlirown, .r. .(j^[ sea- si cleaned by the wind beiore it reaches the gron;; ..|^ji(^^ 'I'lie outer husk is then taken off by a ljand-!T:r ,(|^.^{c,-.() hitcrwliich it is winnowed, and beaten with c'li;': .||;!^.^ ^^^ to take od" the inner husks. The large grams a;. silted (roni the stnali ones, and packed in casks j be conveyed on shij)boaid. Betore the rice conui to perfection, it is assailed by niany cnemic>, Woiius and small fislies, which live in the watLrAidj ^^f j that covers the swamps, would destroy the root ||.., ^^ij,^ were it not lor the herons, who devour them i^iiKxccnt multituiles, and are, on that account, as much icj| ,)^)j^ , garded by the planters, as the tin key buzzards ^rdl ,r,,,,, ^j by (he iuh.diuants ot the town-.. B;^. (^.jj}, IiUHuneiable flocks ot iic<;.binls hover over tfi swamps whin the crop is npc ; but they arc nui unintenuj)ted in their t .:m, iur )oung negroes ar( founc ^■> flCij ' caiii) > n diivc I hem awav. Siiuih Carolina is dividt.d by nature info twi parts, Upper and! !;\v'er. Along the coast, aiul m< i> than one hundred miles westward, the count \ J^ICjiton 1 their roduce (J the iuh, • skill ii'^o is I A [Jicie i 69 » give lie fat, level, and intersected with swamps, cultivated :c ; ^^"5"- with rice: bc\ond this, it rises into hills pro- ih ^v'-*^' grcssivcly, and terminates in the Allegany Moun- hc yelio'. tjiins, which separate the waters that tall into the the sle: . j^ilamic frotn those that discharge themselves into ntcr : l' ' the Missisippi. An examination of your ma}) will II make this clear to vou, >use, us.:. rhcre arc no stones to he found in Lower Caro- over icj.Moes anjltlie inhabitants of Carolin.i, a,tliey want either lirni aw.iva.- ;,l..ill or tli^^ taste to establish maruitacture-:. into twoi •|,_io is, a pi.uu much ciiliivatcvl, lor the f;nc and nniJB:ik l)lcic coloui it \'ie!ds to painters r.nd (!\ers. :ouni Cjtto u is h kcw oc ra ;icJ I I ll.u cic to aavantatje, au( I onus 70 forms a profitable article of commrrce. Several of our friends having formed a party to take a ride into the country, I must lay aside my pen, and bid you adieu. H.FRANKLIN. f LETTER XL toucli assail as tin aroun a sudc young losing ot a p told w cation, nom, From Mrs, Ilcurii Franklin to Mr. Middlcton. days. learn n Dkar Madam, ^'^''^^' The rilK intelligence I have to convey so nearly concerns y^Hir liappincss, tliat 1 make ve j»polo2y fur the liberty of addressing myself u , , , f ! • f 1 cells, of In order to save you t'om the nam or apprcncn- against upon th two fan you sion, 1 begin by an assurance th.\t your son i^ ^ now i!i perfect health, thougli, from inipriidcntK puttinf> himself in the way ot danger, he has beer very near losing his hfe. As we wore enjoying a walk in the woods, aitc the heat of the day, we saw a ratth^-snake coilci np before u-;. 1 called hastily to Arthur to av<::: hiui. Had he attended to my warning, he wouul have hc'M) unlunt ; for ihey seldom attack any ov.c W'lu) docs not mol'.'iJ. th(.'m : but curiositv, and * * thase Wi ic smal •vith sm; nirit jt iidvcntiui itcd 1 Min to advance am tuuc 1 Scvera! k.e a ride I, and bid touch the animal with a switch. Enraged by this assault, the creature, whicli was six feet long, and as thick as my leg, curled up his body in a circle around his head, which he raised upright, and with a sudden dart inflicted a wound on the ancle of my young friend. My terror was extreme ; but not losing my presence ol mind, I gathered the leaves of a plant, which grew in the wood, that I had been told were an antidote, and by the immediate appli- cation, diminished the ill consequences ot the ve- nom, though he suffered extremely for several \Iiddliton, days. He is perfectly recovered, and I hope will learn prudence from this accident, which might ''"'''^^^^^■'^"' ^have been fatal. ' The moment the rattle-snake is apprehensive of convey so I . ir ' IQangcr, he sounds nis raitle, and puts himsclt m a |])(;sturc of defence. I'he rattle grows at the end of ^ ^ ' Tlhe tail, and is formed of several loose, hollow Icclls, of a horny kind of sub^tance, that jingle one Lfrainst another, and warn »: osc who are near to be tiipon their guard. Hcinf,;cts i ii^ 'Ic.-agerous bite with iDrudenti\ * ,• , . • i • £ I ■ (two tangs, or teet.h, tiiat .ire tjuite distinct tiom ith'jse with which he e.M% his fooJ. These f<*ngs re small, sharp pointed, and iurtiished at the roots vitii small bladders of a subtle pol-.on. There are wo species of the rattle-snake, distinguished by ^ ^ 'l^j their colour ; the one black, the other yellowish he wou'i" I ■ ■ 1 I • J J • r brown: it is elegantly striped, and iii eyes arc or a J brilliant red. litv, and i apprehcn- bur son i- iprudenti\ \c has bcc; pods, aftc; lake coiU'^ Ivance atv tvjLn' 1 he bite of the water rattle-snake is also poison- ous, 7 'J f ous, but lc*,s .so than th.it of ihc land, 'I'liis crca. tiiic differs much trom the comiiKMi rattlesnake, as it has nciihcr langs nor rattle ; 1 cannot guess, therefore, why it has obtained this name. The black snake is another coniinon reptile in Carolina; it is very long, and pursues tiiosc who attack it, but its bite is of no consecjuencc. The country j)coplc ocldi^ni kill it, because u is useful in (Itstioyinij rats and mice. It is wonderialiv tond ot milk, and trc(jiienily steals into dairus; which in tl;e'^c southern parts are nio,>.tiv undir ix, ..• ground, in onler to preserve the milk, which coul.l Lit j not, in another situation, be kept sweet tor ihrc^' hours, in -^uinmer. 1 here are n)any other kinds oi harmless snaki ^ some nt tlu ;ii h(MUtifully variegated, partictilarly lliegaiLcr, I'.ic ribbon, and the hluisli green snake. The Matas iM sn jke is almost as p()isonous as the rutile-Mi.iia' ; a:..l u is a more insidious cnemv, bj. cause It i^ivi s r.j warning cd its .ipproach. Rcptili'ij aie ninnerous here, and of great vaii( ■'.. There .'.I e man » sj^ecies ot t»og>. and lizards, [■ • sides the cl uineleon, which is liy no mean , ini- comrv.on. The waters and swampy places abound wiihih kind ot cidcodilc called a coeinan. \\'e have sc; several iij)W.r.ds ot twelve teet long, trom tlic he, to il.j c.\tremi;y ot the t.iil. li on land, tliev w. sooner lake to llight at the sight ot man, th.m vf turc to aiiaek htm , but in the water they aie n J com • havr the d torn, Cure's niidalj excej) exact! It Ution \ 11 n /- n tend le sees e to t, ivhcre i imes ir I.'ange ( ^'ge, w AHminc cted C( " the pc ;■!■, by 1 riy. i ^ distre )(.' COUML^r.UiS, ion of "nian, m •cd. A dt only 1 '■iway-» 1 1 t J 71 will forego any self-gratification for that paiposr. He carne L^i.ij . JlliCt WJI pliance 1 have ensured him a faithful scivant, I *^ . . J^^^icad hope you will not think 1 liavc acted impiJI ^ pcrly. the s) '->f pc r.xcha town, to a w the cei surviv tlioui^l )car. oxen, they 111 large i\ J cw y 11 a: ,, ^ « 7j purpose, cho, and :>ns ^^cre ;e till he jnted tha when so ound us any argu- te wanu 1 at Saiicho But, said nr scheme Happily, sh ladv m $ The lite of a planter, whilst they reside upon their estates, is miserably dull ; as they generally live in a solitary house, surrounded on all sides by mud and water, deprived ol the cheering influence of pleasant prospects or agreeable neighbourhood. The negroes, and their overseers, arc the only per- sons with whom they converse : the comfoit oi the former depends much upon the disposition of tlic latter, who can cither lighten or increase ih.ir l.i- bour 111 the field. In the month ol June, when the swdinps arc watered for the first time, ihc liar of pestilential di:,or(lers compels the planters to exchange this mopisli lile lor the gaieties ol Charli"i- i own, and leave the management oi the plantation to a white overseer, who, lor gain, risks his lite, hy oblc exam. i^^^. certainty of a dreadtnl fit of illnes. : should he- >he may <-• survive the fust, he is sure of a second aitark, \ncno, - though probably slighter, at the same season ne%t. to et . yj^,^r. All the planters keep great numbers oi \i own •• ,^v,en, cows, and pigs, almost tree oi expcice, a^ Jlhey turn them out to get their own living in tl.c ntreaties ^ jl^^^^ forests belonging to the plantations. c cliangt^ ^ y^^^ people here will allow tint the capacit\- of 0(1 inc .^ i,;^^. fn^.gjycs jvj c(|ual to that l' the white people. « dcliueai>^ I \ r t • j i • n 11 >^^ '''^ '**» ^ can judge, making an allow. mce tor the aciime "disaJvantages o! slavery, they are njue!> upon a aioUy ,p_jj. ^^.j^jj ^\^^^^^. ^jC tln.il- Qvvn conditior of life. \\ ♦ y tins ^ ' |jji^>l \^a\i t)ne, in Noiiolk, who had taught himseii ser\dn , l|^^^.^^j 3jjj vvrilc whilst a slave ; and by dint ol •^^^ ^"^H E2 .ndunay '1^ m\ 76 industry, at over hours, had acquired a considcrablr fund ot knowledge. A negro, named Cjcsar, obtained a pcn»;Ion from the state of Soutli Carolina, for discovering the mclliod of assuaging the pain and swelling of ilie bite of a rattle '^nakc, by the aj)plication of a to- bacco leal steeped in rum. In order to prove the cfHcacy of his remedy, Cii'sar, with Roni.in fortitude, provoked orc ot those dangerous animals to bite him, and then prevented the baneful effects, by dressing the V'ound after the manner he had recommended. Our time has passed very cheerfully in Charles- town, one agreeable entertainment succeeding each other; which is according to the gay disposition o{ the inhabitants, and their extreme attention to strangers. The ladies mix a great deal in companv, though they are modest, and observe the strictest deco- rum in their behaviour. Both men and women lose the bloom of youth ver)' early. At thiity, a woman looks old ; and it is not uncommon to 5 the mother of a young child with the wrinkles of| sixty. The climate is very mild. In the dept! of winter there are seldom irosts that last longer than a few days ; but the peopV^ are so enervatii' by the excessive heats of summer, that they re quire large fires; and more fire-wcod, in proper' tion, is consumed in Charlestown than in Pluia dclphia. f fl 1 4 7 4 ?'iic( try I my d Cilliif Jrll Dl. I Icrablc n from ing the of the of a to- remedy, ORC of ukI then sing the »mendc(l. Charles- ding each josition oi \ ention to / / The town begins to wear a mt-Iaiiclioly appr.ir- nnce, 'roin the breaking out ot tiio yellow ievci. Xinnbers arc ill, and all incc: course with the coun- try prohibited, t'\cc])t by ti;e lu'groes, who are not i.ul.'j?ct to the disease. This circumstance has determined me to take in)' <.I;*[)drture without dcla';. 'The uecei-isary pie- p.ir.itions reijuirmg m^' .iiu m'ance, I must cuii- liuiie, With the greaic^t rcj^^Ktt, youi's, I'ce. li. I U AX KLIN'. ■■«ii»aB»i ■ LETTER XII. iv, though ' [test deco- (\ women thnty, a 111 on to see ■rinkles o* Ithe depi'.; last long^J nervatiC they Im prop 01' m Phiid AriJiuj' Middlcton to hi^ Brother Ech^iu, Dear Brothek, THE yellow fellow drove us from jCharlestown in great haste ; but the desire of vi- liling East Florida overcame the apprc hension ok ncetiug again with this tcriibie disorder, farther iuuth, therefore we proceeded to Savannah, aionfT the coast, which is much intersected with livers, md broken by tiiany small bd\ s and inlets. '1 h.e lown, which was formerly the capital of Georgia, llandi* on a high hill ol burning sand, on the soutii ^ide of the river ol the same name, aud seventeen E J miles 7S miles From its mouth. It is one of the lari^cst places id this country, though ot no very great magniturie. It ha« several churches, belonging to different sects ; and a synagogue for the Jews, of which p<*o}^le tl'.ere are many fa!ni!)?fs settled there. The name of Savannah \\ ill be recorded in his- :ory, from the defeat ot flic French and Americans, under M. d'Jiitain^,, who endeavoured to take it irom the English; but General Prevost preserve^! u by his superior address, in obtaining a cessation of arms tor twenty-four hours, whilst he procure^ reinforcements that enabled him to defend the place. We were net sorry to take our departure from Sav.innah, which, from its situation and unheahhi- r.rs=:, is a disagreeable residence. 1 he country we were goiiig to explore being thinlv inhabii'vd, and r.ot likelv to afiord regular accomrnod.uion^ so otten as we might want iheiii, Mr. Franklin purchased three horses; one for him. self, one tor me, and one for a negro whom I have rescued from slavery : he is qualified to be very i due onc( ami plan I he ^ possi 5uire were and I wild food. evtcn inhdb inesrii ample counti people of fell avaric and to of the others treaties ro. useful to us in case ot accidents. Before I pi--, , * f caused cred any lariher in my journev, I must explain to| , . you that America is inhabited by three distinct kinds of people ; Indians, European settlers, and Negro slaves : entirely different in their origin, that is, as far as we can trace it; for I do not mean to say that they did not all spring from Adam. The native inhabitants, whom I have never yet intro- ducec te people Vcrned Whe rica by cess enc f ;t places nt sects; I p(*ople d in his- ncrlcans, J lake it jrcservofl ccssaiion procurou ^Icnd iliK ture from unbcalilii- I re being d regular lant ihcm, e tor him. lom 1 have lo be vcrv ^re I pi^^-j explain toj^ be distinct f Itlers, aiK ' rigin, that It mean to am. The yet intro- duce TO duced to )our aciiualniance, are the Indians ; ^«'K.i once unintcrrijpteilly pos-^essed the whole coiu\try, and ra'i|;cd, as tree as air, through the vast li>vc>i^ planted by tlie ha;id ot natnie, where tlu'\ puisK.;i ilie wild animals tor their support ; and i.uli tube po<;«;c>-Ncd extensive ir.icts, m winch ilicy would "lullci no interference trom their nei.;hbi)Ui >. i hey were ignorant ot the art ol cultiv.uing ilic ground, and trusted lo the success ot ihe ciiace, and the wild Iruiis ot ihe fore.'t alone, tor llie supply i.l food. Thi^ mod t life required a prodigious extent ot countr. .o maintain a small nutnlier »>l mhdbuants ; and the Indians wcjuld have leceived inestimable benefits fiom the instruct ion and e\. ample of ilie Knropeans, who discovered their country, and formed setihMiients in it, li ilie white people had been guided bv disinterested nioti\cs of tellowship and good will; but ii;.-,icad <,[ thi>, avarice influenced them to seize upon ilie lands, and to drive the poor Indians into the interior parts of the country. A tew purchased their estates : others (ibtained them by stratagem and faiihless treaties ; and many more by force. I'his has eause( ahnost continua I wars bet ween the white people and the Indians ; but these sin-plc peoph e are not a match tor an Luropean army, go- verned with regular military discipline. When we read of the discovery of South Ame- rica by Columbus, you may remember that his suc- cess encouraged other adventurers to go in quest ot IL uni'.nown IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1^ IM 2.2 lii Mm — I.I 1.25 ^ . 6" ► m ^ /} /y ■a, /^ '^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^.. ' '♦ so unknown lands; and voyages of discovery became ii ki!]'l el' fashion, s.inrtioncd by the most powerful r»jf'(jns oi Europe, who were, most of ihem, eager to found colonies in the new world. These scttle- mr^!]ts have sjradually ris^n to considerable states; <\ud er-.igrarits from ,d! jvirts (>f Kurope continue to add to the number of the white inh^')itants. In the muhif.ule of these emigrants, there arc manv unprincipled adventurers, who have no means of subsisting at limine, and are therefore willing to see!: a maintenance in a foreign country, where r,c;r ch^inicter ir. noi known. It is common for t'.e'^-:.' people to retire to the uncultivated parts of y.\c country, and obtain a grant of a certain por- tion of land. Their first care is to build a hut, or a log. house, for their family ; when this is effected, they begin to cur. down trees, and loosen the soil, ior the reception of as much Indian corn and potatoes as their own wants require; and for the rest, gaine and pork supply the deficiency. A restless spirit, and the desire of independence, as the country around them becomes more peopled, often induce these borderers, as they are called, to quit the spot on which they have bestowed some la- bour, before it is completely clean, and remove fur- ther into the forest, where they can live unrestrained by law or good manners : in short, they area kind of savages, hostile to the Indians, and to their more civilized countrymen, who succeed them, and im- prove their rude beginnings. Thus a farm will sonietimcj so CO the the cot An bro sole i 1 .. JProi I '^t'a-j i way soutl hour liortl; Catlh n.orn row s II '"''^t V tl^.e St haps t 'i^es. Verted '\-hich almost some o can im II: e, to inias, c ty the i s • * b 2 came owcrful :i. eager se scttlc- i states ; continue nts. In re many I neaiis ol rilling to . ,', where j inion iui* Darts of tain por- [ a hut, or s effected, n the soil, corn and id for the I encv* ^ dcnce, as | peopled, I called, to some la- Imove fur- restrained are a kind heir more , and im- Ifarm wiH ometim^s 81 sometimes own two or three masters before it comes into thorough cultivation. The number ok* the Indians is said to diminish rapidly; and it is thought that, in time, the white nations will be- come the sole possessors of th^' vast continent ot America. I need not tell you that the negroes are brought from Africa, against their inclination, and sold for slaves. I hasten to recal )our attention to our journey. From Savannah we proceeded to Sunbury, a sea-port town, beautifully situated between Med- way and Newport rivers, and about fiitecn miles south of Great: Ogccche river. The town and har- bour are defended trom the fury of the sea by the north and south points ol St. Helena and Souili Catharine's islands, which we visited the next n'iorning, and, in order to reach them, iordctl a nar- row shoal. The soil of these islands is sandy, ar.d not very fertile, except on particular ridges near t!ie sea-shore, formed of heaps ot sea-siiells, per- haps thrown up by the surf from the most distant c'ues. Time, and the elTects of the air, have con- verted tlie greater part of these shells into earth, which is of such a productive nature, that ityicids almost all kinds of vegetables ; and amongst others, some of the most beautihil flowering shrubs you can imagine. I wished Catharine had been wiili n.c, to liave admired the variety of magnolias, kal- rnias, ^c. that flourish here, almost unobserved by the inhabitants, to whom they are no novelty. "I 82 # ai ei th ar he hi< As I was groping about amongst the shells of one of these mounds, 1 observed pieces of broken earthen ware, wliich excited my curiosity to search fur- ther, till I found an earthen pot, ingeniously em- bo.s?cd with basket-work, and of very antique ap- pearance ; but how it came there, or to what peo- ple it belonged, is one of those secrets, that will probably never be discovered, though it puzzled Mr. Franklin to form conjectures about it for some | hours. These islands arc the abode of numerous herds of the roe-buck or deer, which are often at- f lacked by the tygers, wolves, and bears, who still . dispute the sovereignty of the woods. Here are | also raccoons, foxes, squirrels, rats, and mice, bu: no moles. One species of the rats are twice as large as the common Norway rat. In the night time this creature throws out the earth to make iis| burrow, and raises little hillocks which have a singular appearance. In one of my walks I war struck with something hanging from the bough of a tree, like a dead animal. I touched it with a switch I had in my hand, when, to my surprise, it 1 ^^^" leaped to the ground, slunk into the thickets, and ^'sctu almost poisoned me with its stench. I soon found it was an opossum, an animal very common in many parts of America, and numerous in these islands. It is about the size of a cat, and its hcaJ is shaped like that of a fox : it has small, roumi, black, piercing eyes, and upright black cars, edgcJ with white; its tail i* partly covered with scales aiK sha It i sha a f c cics COUl tivcj <^ggs it in and the s gape: and r, pcriei else f( bit th serper hogs fear of of one of jn earthen sarch fur- ously em- ntique ap- what pec , that will it puzzled it for some numerous re often at- i, who still Here are d mice, but ire twice as n the niglit to make iis| ich have a tralks 1 war e bough of 1 it with a surprise, it | ickets, andi h. I soon ry commonr us in these md its head [lall, roun-.i, ears, edgcil Iwith scalesf 83 and is of great use to the creature, as it is long enough to twist round the branches of trees, whilst the body hangs suspended. The greatest peculi- arity of the opossum is a sort of pouch under the belly, in both the male and the female, where they hide their young. They feed on canes and other vegetables, and enjoy a feast when they are nimble enough to catch a bird. As I know your fondness for natural history, I shall make no apology for describing the raccoon. It is less than the beaver, though resembling it in shape, except the head, which is more like that of a fox. It has a white face, with broad, black cir* cles round the eyes, that give a firmness to its countenance, though it is harmless : it is very ac- tive, and climbs trees with great expertness. Birds' eggs and vegetables are its food ; and so delicate is it in its taste, that it is extremely fond of oysters, and frequents the shores at low water, not only lor the sake of seizing the first unfortunate oyster that gapes open its shell, but also in order to wash its food before it is eaten. The hair of the raccoon is. useful to hatters, who mix it with that of beavers and rabbits ; and its flesh is good eating, as 1 ex- perienced yesterday, when we could get nothing else for dinner. Pole-cats and wild cats also inha- bit these woods; and such a varietv of snakes and serpents that I cannot particularize tlicm : tiie hogs eat them voraciously, and seem to have no fear of their bite. The rattle-snake is often dressed l^ 6 and 84 and sent to tabic as a dainty disli ; but I could ne- ver overcome my prejudice sulHciently to taste them. The animals of these islands may serve for a description ot those that inhabit the coasts of South Carolina and Georgia, as they are nearly alike. Though, oiy letter it already so long, I cannot leave out my feathered favourites. Here are several kinds of e.igles, who are the tyrants, not only of the air, but the earth also, for they prey upon fawns and other young quadn^peds. Thelishiiig hawk flies high and swiftly; his long pointed v.'ings cleaving i!ie air with v?ast force : he lives entirely on fish, which he catches with great dexterity. Water-fowl, of nun^erous kinds, haunt these shores ; and amongst the songsters there is none more melodious or beautiful than the painted finch, which is mournfully contrasted with the coo- ing oi" the ground dove, an elegant little creature, not larger than a sparrow. The wild turkeys grow to a prodigious size. I saw one that had been hatched from an egg found in t']e forest ; he was a noble, majestic birci, at least a yard high, when he stood upright: his colour was daik dusky brown ; but the feathers of the neck, breast, back, and shoulders, were tipped with copper colour, which in the sun looked like burnished gold. The American turkeys are twice as large as those V, l;:ivc in England, particularly as to height, as their » th< the fea ed tior me, and my ney, y ceive ( its wat KaSt I divide! East jsearcfic (to the h countr' ItlicMr C( lid ne- o taste 2 for a f South r alike. :it leave \ seve on ly ral 85 their necks and Iccjs are longer in proportion. Both the cock and lien are brown, not havinjr a black feather on them ; but the cock is beautifully adorn- ed with variable shades, as I have already men- tioned. Thougli the novelty of a foreign country deliglits me, my heart glou"> at the remembrance of home, and the dear friends I left there, to whom I send o m^ best 1 ove. n fawns his long :\RTHUR MIDDLETON. 4 )rcc he ■ith great ds, haunt , there is c painted \ thecoo- crcature, size. 1 rg found bird, at rht : bis lathers of |re tipped )ked like LETTER XIII. Mr. II. Franklin to Ednin Middlcfon, My dear Edwin. Si. Aii^usiinc, a: those [ht, as their IN order to trace the course of our jour- . ney, you must study your map, and you will per- Ij ceive that the river Apalachicola, which discharges its waters into the Gulph of Mexico, runs between 5 East and West Florida. The great Mississippi divides West Florida from Louisiana. East Florida is tl;c present scene of our re- searcIiCs. Arth.ur and Iha/.r.fj left Sunburv, rode on to the banks of the Aiatamaha river, through a level country, well Vvutcrcd by large streams, which take their course from extensive svvaups and marshes. Theje 86 I These swamps are daily improving into large, fruitful rice plantations. The road we have lately traversed is straight, wide, and kept in excellent repair; and in most parts is bordered with a light grove of various beautilul flower- bearing trees, en* twined with garlands of creeping shrubs, and over- shadowed by tall spreading cypresses, oaks, and cedars. The rice and corn plantations are decorated in a similar manner, and through the branches of the trees appear the neat, humble dwellings of the inhabitants ; who arc cheered, not only all day, but during moonlight nights, with the melody of the cheerful mock-bird, the warbling nonpareil, and the plaintive turtle-dove. Inns not being very frequent, we are accus- tomed to ride up, without ceremony, to private houses, where we are generally entertained with great hospitality, and are entreated to pass a day or two with the family, who seem gratified with the company of strangers. During one of these visits, when the heat of the day was past, we made a little party at fishing, a diversion in which I take no pleasure ; but I was willing to comply with what- ever was kindly proposed for our amusement. Our friends led us to a shady retreat, in a beautiful grove of magnolias, myrtles, and sweet bay trees, standing . on the bank of a clear stream, that flowed with a ser- j- pentine course through the plantations. We pre- ; party sently caught some fish ; one kind of them, called ^j jj^ the red belly, has brilliant colours. It is a small, ' 5 J Hat t I ito large, lave lately excellent iih a light ; trees, en- and over- oaks, and decorated ranches oi ings ol the ill day, but ody of the pareil, and are accus- to private ained with J iss a day or | :d with the ' 1 hese visits, | lade a little ] I take no j with what- ent. Our tiful grove s, standing with a ser- We pre- lied 11, Hat I em, ca Ls a sma 87 flat fish, of an oval form. The top of the head and back are of an olive green, sprinkled with russet spots; the sides are of a sea-green, inclining to azure, which gradually grows lighter till it changes to a silvery white, studded with specks of the finest green, russet, and gold colour ; and the belly is of a bright scarlet. Near the gills is an oval parti- coloured spot, to which I can compare nothing but the eye in a peacock's feather. Our diversion, if the destruction of the finny tribe deserves that name, did not last long; for heavy rolling clouds announced an approaching storm, that obliged us to return as fast as possible to the house. Before we could get shelter, the lightning flashed from cloud to cloud, and the peals ©f thunder resounded awfully through the air. We quickened our pace, but were overtaken by a vivid flash of the forked lightning, that fell with irresistible fury on the trunk of a large pine tree, not far from our path, and set it in a blaze. The flames instantly enveloped the tree, and would have consumed it, if it had not been extinguished by icrrents of rain, that fell in a few minutes aftcrwa;ds. Happily for us, the house was in view, and fear adding wings to our feet, we got in without any other great inconve- nience than the apprehension of danger, which was more on account of two young ladies of our party than for ourselves. The simple, unaffected kindness of this family, which consisted of a father, mother, and two daughters. 88 daughters, might have detained us agreeably for weeks ; but the enjoyment of a fixed habitation was inconsistent with my plan, therefore I prepared for our departure in the morning. Wc followed tliC course of the Alatamaha river to Fort Barrington, through a well-inhabiied dis- trict, abounding in rice plantations. The vege- table productions were, many of them, striking and beautiful ; particularly a flowering shrub, from twelve to fifteen fei^t high, bearing large clusters of pale blue tubular-shaped flowers, speckled with crimson on tlie inside. At the bottom of each clus- ter grows a sort of fence, formed of leaves of a de- licate white, edged with rose-colour, which at a distance look like roses, and give the shrub an un- common appearance. We reached the southern shore of the river by means of a Icrry. Our negro, Sancho, pointed out to us, near this place, the traces of an ancient In- dian town, which he knew by conical mounds of earth, artfully heaped up, perhaps in remembrance of some famous warrior, or victory, like some ot those left by the Danes in England: an instance of similarity in tlie customs of savriges with nations } more advanced m civilization, i!C ei ig' V f tl le stream is adorned with large tall tree^:, which grow :7, that bear a in th( c water, called tiie //yssa ccccme scarlet truit, lari'^er than an olive, used sometimes. ■•-J from its pleasant acid, instead of limes: the leaves 'ire ass Jl Ok lim rcjy lIlKJ ed ij and whit c Li m I T\ to thd and of tl our a spots bags, wild 1 Sanch lorme( of bar In ore bpread iwith I collect formed Attl so fort I lablv for labitation prepared aha river bited dis- lie vcge- , strikirrg irub, from re clusters ;kled with each clus- es of a de- ;rhich at a rub an un- le river by )ointed out \ 89 'Irop off as the fruit lipcns, and the whole tree assumes a scarlet hue. This tree is nut seen farther north than th.c Great O^ctfchc, 'A here they receive th.e name ot O^eeche limes. We sodu left tlie cultivated country, and relying upon Sancho to direct uur course, passed ihroueh an uiiinliabited wilderness, which present- ed us, in succession, with dark, ;^rrissy savannalis, and liigh pine forests ; often varied with red and ; white oaks, cyj)re«;5, liickoi\', cedars, and xXv. cu- I cumber tree, ail of a great size, I 'J'lie transition from rich ilouiiJiii^g settlements, to these majestic \v'ilds, was ncu unpleasaiu to nic; and my companion was charmed with tho novelty of the contrivances we were obliged to adopt lor our accommodation. We chose the picasantest spots for our resting placts, where we opened out bags, and refreshed ourselves with provisionjj ; ncient In- wild fruits served us for a desert, and at night, lounils ot Sancho, with our affiflance, erected a few poles, and formed a shelter from the night dews with pieces ot bark, that he found scattered on the ground. In order to iurnish our chamber completely, he spread the skin of a hultalo, which we had brought \N'ilh us, over a heap of dried leaves that he had collected from under the trees, and, 1 assure you, formed a couch by no means uncomfortable. mciimes, p ^^ ^\^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ second day*s journey we were so fortunate as to meet with a cow-pen, near which lembrancc .e some ol [i i'lsiance lilh nations Igc of the lliicb grow hat bear a the leaves drop J the • set i) i on i\ 90 was a rutle habitation, were we were civilly enter* taincd with milk, butter, cheese, and venison. In these uninhabited districts manv curious na- tural objects called torih our attention. High open forests of stately pines, flowery plains, and ex- tensive green savannahs, having each their appro- priate inhabitants and productions, afforded an almost endless vaiiety. Annanas, with clusters of large, white, fragrant flowers, were seen in dry sandy situations ; and in moist swamps, a diminutive species of kalmia, with spikes of flowers of a deep rose colour : groups of blue, yellow, and white lupins adorn the open parts of p^^^ the forests, and generally grow on sandy heights, i ^^^ ^ where we frequently saw the dens or caverns, dug \^^yQ by the great land-tortoise, called here gopher : ^i ^^j the animal retreats within them in the day, and sa^1^^J.g ^ lies forth at night in quest of prey. f The same scene continued till we reached St, I Mary's river, where, though the soil is sandy, peach-trees, Indian corn, rice, cotton, and indigo, thrive exceedingly. The savannahs in the neighbourhood of this river are enamelled with flowers of all colours : violets, lupins, amaryllis, and a beautiful species , of the scnsative plant, with flowers of a bright|| rose colour, are scattered in wild profusion, amidst groves of the most luxuriant forest trees. Still far- ther south is another river, or rather chain off ,._, , , Idifficu lakcstl unculi 4ri My f''', ! 91 illy enter* lison. urioiis na- il igh open s, and ex- )cir appro- fTurdcd an th clusters re seen in swamps, a spikes of 3S of blue, jen parts of idy heights, averns, dug re gopher: ay, and saU reached St, is sandy, and indigo, 5od of this 11 colours : ful species , )f a bright! ; sion, amidst E. Still far.|' chain o(i Jakes, running parallel with the sea, called Si. John's, which is navigable from one end to the other. St. Augustine, though dignified with the title of capital of East Florida, is a very small town, standing on the sea coast, which enables it to re- ceive the products of the Havannah, and convey them to Savannah and Charlestown. I (lid not intend to have gone farther towards the south than St. Augustine; but an agent is to set off to-morrow, for one of the trading houses on the borders of George's L^ke, in the interior part of the country, and Arthur's desire to take the advantage of his company is so great, that I have complied with his wishes; an excursion that I expect will supply us with matter for your fu- ture amusement. — Adieu. HENRY FRANKLIN. -1 anmuU ^^ hundred feet: the trunk is perfectly upright, s and rep- |rising in the form of a stately column; the milk- peculiar!- t>vhite flowers, resembling full-blown roses, are r enemies, jsurrounded by a circle of dark green shining lal fund 01 Ijeaves, that set them off to great advantage ; in y their va- JLj^g centre stands the young cone, which is of a rivances to |tf]csh colour, and towards autumn grows very large, planted iii '^nd changes to a crimson, and as it opens, shows nultitudes of coral-red berries, which hang from he cones by a white silky thread. The wood of his tree, when seasoned, is ol a straw colour, and arder than that of the poplar. The palmetto royal, or Adam's needle, is a siiT- ular tree: they grow so thick together, that a bird an scarcely penetrate between them. The stiff caves of this sword plant, standing straight out sleep; ^i^- >|rom the trunk, form a barrier that neither man cattle, or ' ^^^^^ beast can pass: it rises with an erect stem, a morning fe'jout ten or twelve feet high, crow^ned with a new- Uj^ijapiet of dagger. like green leaves, with a stiff harp spur at the end : this thorny crown is tip- ped ol" |e devoutly r rambles ;ially of an Id of dried oak, or a a modest noor-wiil r ! 94 ii» i I ior in < thej and a a crar the ; sibJe seed ped with a pyramid of white flowers, shaped like * a tulip or a lily. To these flowers succeed a large fruit, much like a cucumber in form, but when ripe, of a deep purple colour. Garlands and fes- toons of creeping shrubs hang upon the branches of the forest trees, and seem to bind them toge- ther. Amongst others, grape vines, of uncommon size, climb round the trunks, and twine to the very top, but the fruit is small and ill-tasted. The long moss fixes itself, and takes root on the arms of the trees; and hangs pendant, ^r like long streamers of many feet in length, wav. ^^^ ing in the wind in a fantastical manner. In order }^Uj. to prepare it for use, it is thrown into shallow Lj^ water and exposed to the sun, where it soon rots, jspeci and the furry outside is dissolved; when takenltYgj. out, beaten and cleaned, nothing remains but the:|^-ju inside fibres, which are black and like horse-hair, and are equally proper for stuffing mattresses, chair-bottoms, saddles. Sec, The Spaniards in South America, we are told, work them into ca- bles. Cattle and deer arc glad, in the winter sea- son, to feed upon this moss, whilst it is fresh. One species of the cypress, from its prodigious height and size, strikes the beholder with awe' these, their convc adclic Int cur ab or on a.Tiusei it generally grows in the water, or on low mois , |j^l situations, near the ' nks of great rivers and lake<.| that are covered several months in the year witlij water. Tlie lower part of the trunk spreads ou: like buttresses, that seem de-j signec into many div lowe 'isions of thci short ^ngih, pouch v.(-l f 95 baped like * ed a large but when is and fes- ; branches them toge- ancommon ine to the tasted, takes root signed to support the vast body of the tree, and torm large, strong, serpentine roots, that strike ofT in every direction. The main trunk rises IVom these, like a straight pillar, to a prodigious height, and then divides into a wide spreading tap, like a canopy, where eagles securely fix their nests : cranes, storks, and paroquets, venture to approach the royal bird, and olten perch on these inacces- sible branches. The paroquets arc allured by the seeds, which arc their iavouiite repast. The trunk ;s pendant, \q[ ^^is tree, hollowed out, forms an excellent mgih, wav. ^anoe, and is Irequently used for that purpose. •, In order ;»vlany trees, shrubs, and plants, of a more diminu- nto shallow hive size, deserve a stranger's admiration. One it soon rots, J g^pecies of hibiscus jg extremely elegant; it is a when taken I very (alJ shrub, growing like a pyramid, adorned tns but tne|^itb large, expanded, crimson flowers. Besides horse-hair, I these, and hundreds more equally remarkable for mattresses, I their beauty, the shrubs are overrun by a pale pink paniards in ' lem into ca- winter sea- s fresh. , prodigiou .V convolvolus, with a deep crimson eye, which forms a delicate contrast with its dark green leaves. In this excursion we have sometimes taken up ©ur abode for the night near the banks of a river, or on the borders of a lake, where I have often with awe' "amused myself in watching the pelicans catch in low mois , fish, Sancho, who is a good marksman, shot one ol them ; it is larger than a tame goose, with very short legs and webbed feet : its bill is of a great length, and bent like a scythe ; but the large seem Qt^l pouch beneath it is the most extraordinary part signet of I ',^ dpi of water- cy rctne :oots, Willi hdlf- spread wings tripping over the little coves, and hiding themselves in the tufts oi long grass: young broods of the summer teal skimmed the still surface of the water, following the old one, unconscious of danger, till overtaken by the greedy trout ; who, in his turn, became the prey of the '■ subtle alligator. In a shallow part, flowing over a bed of gravel, beneath the rock where I had cho- sen my seat, rose a number of little pyramidal hills, formed of gravel stones, by a species ot small |cray-fish, as a secure place of refuge for their [young, from the attacks of their natural enemy, the gold fish. Small companies of the boldest of the old cray-fish ventured out, and defied the gold fish, who continually returned to the c'aarge. The sight of this battle was new, and interested my attention so much, that I never perceived a lUge alligator, that lay concealed under the edge of the projecting rock on which I sat : he was at least eighteen feef long, and covered with an impene- trable coat of mail. In one drcadfill moment ht: and darted out of the water, opened his teirific j.iw, spouted both wind and water out of his nostri's. ( Resistance was vain : flight was my only refLiL;e. lis unwieldy size made it difiicuk for him to limb over the edge of the prf)montory, which gave e an instant to take to my heels, and endeavour ) ascend a tree. I had not reached the fust ranches, when an Indian hearing my crie-^, rush- d out of the thickets, and, with heioic couragro, ¥ came laii- *;-::. I- i.| 98 came to my deliverance. Happily, he was armed with a club as well as a tomahawk. Being pre- pared for the attack, and extremely active, he struck the alligator a violent blow across the head with the club, which stunned him a little; before he could recover himself, a second stroke fell with still greater violence, and deprived him of the power of moving his jaw. He attempted to get away, but my Indian friend was too nimble for him, and dispatched him with his tomakawk. I descended the tree, and expressed my grati- tude, as well as I could, by signs : by this time, the rest of our party came up, and heard, with hor- ror, the particulars of my escape. Mr. Franklin presented the Indian with several trinkets, and a bottle of rum, of which they are immoderately fond ; and accepted his invitation to his village, which was only two miles off. There were about eight or ten habitations, in a row or street, facing a fresh-water stream, covered with yellow lilies. Some of the young men were nak- ed up to their hips, in the water, fishing with rods and lines; whilst many of the boys were divert- ing themselves in shooting frogs with bows and ^j^ , '''"'"• . . Jeighbo, Our kind conductor led us to his hut, where l^'siow do wife roasted acorns for our supper, and prepared ai j . dish of rice, mixed with oil, made from the acorns j togefl of a live oak. I retired to rest, but could no! )r g m j forget the alligator: his image pursued me in m) ,q^ sleep Art My n immi was armed Being pre- active, he ss the head tie ; before stroke fell /ed him of iptcd to get nimble for kawk. 1 my grati- y this time, I, with hor- vith several :h they are nvitation to off. There I a row or 3vered with 1 were nak- g with rods iTere divert- I bows and 99 sleep. I even fancied that he h.^ a -er. Thereturnof ;:^^^^^^^^^^^ renting a variety of differem T '"'' '"^ P^^" ^7-l^e f^ghtf^i iaet ttl?:^^^ of my mind. ^^^^ possession J^emembermetenderlvfnP .! • -a tell .he. I have coie L a "'"r"' '°""'^' Your affectionate ^' AHTHUR MIDDLETON. BETTER XV. My dear Edwin. Taskazoik, THE fear of PYf-oM.'- n immoderate length obT ^^ ""^ '"'' '«'« "> , ^'"g' I wished tot;„tf !'"'■■ '" °'"" — ' > where Mr^'f-"-'^ °^ LaTT G;J;!r ^-T '" '"« ' '"'"' %''" do. before I proceed u^ ' ''"'' ^ ">"" 1 P-P--' , I mistook vast cCtel;"" ""■'°"^"^>'- 1 the acorm j .__ . , '"J>ters of an anuatir r^^ ^ together bv its fihr« «4"atic plant, unit. L could no: ,. /^ , . f "^ ^^roM^ roots beneath .i V"^ a muliiiude of isJets nf ^o- "^"^^th the ivater, ^-:;:j-----.'™;efte":.:s-;r,:: two * t ]00 '"I ll b ili m two or three of them from the rest : "^ev are not unlike a lettuce, tliougli the leaves are firmer, and of a yellow green. They are first produced near the shores, where they gradually spread into deep water, and form delightful green floating plains of a great length, frequently inhabited by serpents, frogs, otters, cranes, herons, curlews, and jack- daws. The snake bird hautUs the borders of all the rivers and waters of Florida. The head and neck are extremely slender, and the latter uncommonly long ; the bill is likewise long and pointed : all the upper part of the bird is as black and glossy as a raven; the bosom is of a cream colour; the tail is long, of a deep black, tipped with silvery white, and, when spread, is like a fan. These birds love to assemble together in companies, upon the dry branches of trees, that hang over the water. It any thing alarms them in this situation, they i ^ suddenly drop into the water as if they were dead, j ^PP^ and appear to sink to the bottom; but rise in a few J ^"'^'^ minutes to the surface, at a vast distance from the spot where they fell, when nothing is to be seen above the water, but the slender head and neck, %vhich look very much like a snake, and from thi j ^^ ^^ y ^'^^ed o^F eas Som tifully their life in the fly state. These insects rise out (lP'*^^i-C( The 1 til ems ed sea * are not Tier, aiul ccd near nto deep pla'nis ot serpents, ind jack- of all tbc and neck commonly cd: all tkc glossy as a ; the tail is very while, birds love | on tlie dry I water. ^'^ | lation, they | vvere dc;ul, ise in a lew ce from the 3 to be seen [d and neck, Ld from tbiJ ll insects ho^ they are o shoitness oi Its rise out lOI the water, near the shore, in countless numben before sun-rise ; when they generally take ilicir ihqlu to the laiul, but return to their native ele- ment, in swarms, towards evening, where they are greedily devoured by birds, frogs, and fish. The grand business of their short existence seems to be that of laying their eggs, which they deposit in the water, as they die soon afterwards. 'J'hc egg hrjtches, and the larvae undergoes the usual changes in its oozy bed, till the warm sea- son enables it to burst its shell and rise into the air. Tlic variety of fish that inhabit the waters, e(|uals that of the birds, and far exceeds my pow- ers of description; so I must limit my pen to a few ol the most remarkable. The gicat brown spotted garr is defended by a coat of mail, and is so voracious, that he is a very cannibal amongst fish less powerful than himself. He finds but few opponent^ who dare contend with him, except the alligator, to whom he sometimes becomes a prey. The Indians use his sharp teeth to scratch or bleed themselves when they have occasion, and his point- ed scales to arm their arrows. Sometimes they eat his flesh, which is white and tender, after being baked in hot embers, till the skin and scales peel olF easily. Some of the difTerent species of bream are beau- tifully variegated, particularly the great yellow, or parti-coloured bream : his back is a dusky brown, F 3 dashed 105 I dashed with streaks of dull purple ; the sides and belly are of a bright yellow, inclining to scarlet ; the whole powdered with specks of green, gold, and silver, and a large spot near the gills of a deep glossy black, reflecting in the sun both green and blue, and encircled with a fiery red. The flesh of this and some of the other kinds make a good dish. The great soft-shelled tortoise is an inhabitant of the rivers, lakes, and ponds of East Florida : they arc delicious food, and weigh from twenty to thirty pounds. They very much resemble the sea turtle, except having a soft shell, which, when boiled, becomes a jelly. It is a disagreeable look- ing creature, having a sort of snout, with a hooked beak ; the corners of the mouth are wrinkled, and armed with long pointed warts, which he can stretch out or contract as he pleases. This ani- mal, when hungry, burys himself in the slushy bottoms of rivers, where they are covered with flags and long sedgy grass, leaving an opening just big enough for his head; which he darts out as quick as lightning, and seizes the first young duck, frog, or fish, that unfortunately passes near him. The gopher, or great land tortoise, though of the same family, differs very much from the*] O" risi creature I have just described, both in his placefp^st, h of residence, and in the substance of his shell ; | ^^ on which is so hard, that a man might stand upon it, j The without hurting the tortoise. He makas his d only] r t ides and scarlet ; en, gold, of a deep rreen and The flesh ke a good f 103 ^ only on high dry sand-hills, instead of choosing watery places ; the eggs are larger than a musket ball, and the flesh is excellent food. In one of our rides, a plain lying open before us, Mr. Franklin called my attention to a large hawk, which seemed to make many efforts to rise, but from some cause, which wc could not per- I ceivc, was unable to lift himself from the ground. On coming near him, wc found that a very long ; coach-whip snake had wreathed himself close round n his body, and that he had but one wing at liberty. I alighted with an intention of parting them, but, whether from fear of me, or mutual consent, (the { antagonists being nearly equal,) I know not, they separated without my imerfercnce ; tlie bird rose into the hlgl;er regions of the air, and the ich he can | snake crept into a thicket. It is mf)st likely that This ani* \ ^^^^ hawk began the affray, with the design of de- the slushy ^*<^"^^"S ^^^ snake; but the reptile dexterously vered with \ ceiled himself around his body, so as to disarm inhabitant : Florida : twenty to de the sea lich, when eable look- h a hooked inkled, and m opening le darts out first young passes near ise, though him of the power to injure him. We are now at Taskawila, an Indian town, to which, on our entrance, we were welcomed by a company of young people of both sexes, who conducted us to the chiefs house, which is built from theM°""^^"S ground, and is distinguished from the his placen^^s^ both by its size, and a large flag being hoist- his shell H ^^ ^" ^ '^'S^ ^^'^^ ^^ one corner of the roof. d upon iti 1 '^^^ chief, being acquainted with the trader who F 44 was Las his del only! 104 I in 1 'I I I was with us, and hearing he was arrived, rame to us, as wc had ahghtcd from our horses. He was accompanied by several ohl men : the first sahita- tion was a hearty shake of the hands, (or rathi-r arms,) saying, *' You arc come." W'e f()lh)wcd him to an apartment prepared for the reception (d their guests. The pipe beimr filhfd, was llien hand- ed round as a token of ft iendsliip ; ami a large bowl, of what thev call thin drink, was set down on a small, low treble, out of which every person helped himself to as much liquor as he pleased, with a great wooden ladle, till it had gone round ihe circle. This chief is known by the title of the corr- keeper : he assembled his council, that they might hear the trader's proposals, for bartering with his ])eople European goods, for furs and the skins of wild beast?. The bargain was soon struck, and koth sides seemed satisfied. You may believe I was highly gratified in being present at this conference ; the persons, dress, and manners of the Indians being so new to me. They are of a copper colour, and have thick, straight black hair, generally a flat nose, high cheek bones, and small eyes. This chief is a tall, well-mads I ^^^ '' man, of a cheerful countenance and behaviour; ^'^""t yet there is something ferocious in his look, that, if he were angry, would make one tremble. He has been a great warrior, having many captives, who SOI anr I k I ' } and I sami I two A kite! cliin .It a The ( by p^ there this ii the fa in ihd buildi The re] I'jy up tt^hen o t swept, cil-hou! to transi 105 c.wne to He was St saluta- (>r rdtluT eption nt icn hand- il a iiire,c set down •ry person ic pleased, one round the cOTr- they might pg with his le skins ok ruck, and :d in being dress, and me. They k, straight leek bones, well-mads Ibehaviour; [look, that, »ble. He captiv< who attend him as slaves : they waited on him with the most obsequious attention, and appeared very much alraid o\ him. W'c partook of a great feast, consisting of veni- son, stewed in bear's oil, fresh corn cakes, milk, and ijominy : our drink was honey and water, which 1 found cool and pleasant. 'J'his town is the capital of the Alachua tribe, and contains about thirty habitations, which ar« tach formed of two distinct houses, of nearly the satne size. The dwelling-house is divided into two equal apartments; one of which serves for the kitchen and common hall, the other is ihc general clumber lor the tamily. The other house stands .'.t a small distance, and mostly has two stories. The end towards the dwelling-house is supported by posts or pillars, and is an open loft, to which il;ere are no other stairs than a movable ladder ; this is a cool, airy apariment, where the chief of the family receives company, or reposes himself ill the heat of the day. The (jthcr half of this building is closed on all sides with notched logs. The rooms are used for store-houses, where they l.iy up corn, potdtoes, and other provisions. Every dwelling stands in tb.e middle of a square yard,, bounded by a low ba:ik, formed with the eaitli tciken out of the yard, which is always carefully swept. Every town has a public square, or conn- cil-housc, where the chief and the eldeis assemble Ito transact public aiTairs. 1 have been particularly. i 5 exact' 1.* I I ! Oi bi i\ 106 exact in describing this town, as I imagine it will serve for a picture of the rest we shall visit in our future travels. Taskawila is charmingly situated on a high, swelling ridge of sand hills, opposite to a large, beautiful lake ; the sloping bank termi- nated on one side by extensive forests, composed of orange groves, overtopped by grand magnolias, palms, poplars, oaks, &c. Huge herds of cattle, belonging to the cowkeeper and his townsmen, * graze in a vast savannah that stretches out at some distance from the town. In this extensive plain are herds of sprightly deer, and squadrons of well- proportioned, fleet Siminole horses, which live almost in a state of nature. In order to make us more completely welcome, a party of young In- dians, on horseback, were dispatched to the sa- vannah, to pick out some of the best cattle to feast the whole town, in honour of our arrival. The feast was held in the public square. The first course consisted of prime joints, well barbecued; and the second of bowls and kettles of stewed fish and broth, with a very disagreeable dish called tripe soup, made of the paunch of the ox, cut and minced, and boiled into thin soup ; but the aroma* tic herbs, added as seasoning, were not sufficiently powerful to disguise the want of cleanliness in beaut preparing this dish. . libert We are continually making excursions during } Whe our stay here, that we may lose no opportunity ot mcsti indulging our curiosity. I hear the trampling of oyerti the •I le it will it in our ^ situated iposite to nk termi- composed nagnolias, of cattle, ownsmen, at at some isive plain ns of well- vhich live o make us young In to the sa- ttle to feast ival. The The first larbecued ; stewed fish dish called X, cut and the aroma sufficiently ] anliness in I Ions during ortunity ol: 107 the horses at the door, waiting to carry us on one of these jaunts. I wish you could be of our party ; but as that is impossible, I must bid you adieu. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER XVI. am pling of thei Arthur Midclleton to his Brother Eclmn. Pensacola, West Florida. My dear Brother, I CANNOT give you such a clear ac- count of our route through the territories of the Siminole and Muskogee, or Creek Indians, in the southern part of Georgia, as if we had travelled from one post town to another, along a high road, in a cultivated country. We have passed through ail the varieties of soil and surface that you can imagine — hill, dale, plain, and forest. Sometimes we have traversed over extensive savannahs, that maintain innumerable herds of deer, cattle, and Siminole horses, which are of a small breed, but beautifully proportioned; they enjoy their perfect liberty, and approach to the stale of wild horses. When it is intended to catch one of them, a do- mestic horse, which is much nimbler, is used to overtake and entangle them. Every year, as they r 6 108 ,1 r come of age, a troop of them is sent to Charles- town, where they are sold to the highest bidder. At other times we have taken our course through an inclosed country, covered with forests of such grandeur, that those who have never seen them can form no idea. Sometimes we have pursued the course of rivers, and wandered over swampy mea- dows. Amongst the natural curiosities are those vast circular sinks, seen in many places in the neighbour- hood of St. Juan's river, which are situated ge- nerally in the midst of rocks, and formed by an extraordinary eruption from the earth, or probably from some mighty body of water, restrained in its natural course. A person who was present at the formation of one of these receptacles of water, gave nie the following account of the phenome- non. A tremendous rushing noise, like a hurri- cane or thunder-storm, first alarmed him ; and look- ing round, he saw the earth overflowed by torrents, whi^h rusbed down a valley near the place. The inundation soon overwhelmed the higher grounds. When lie had recovered from his surprise, he took courage to go to the place whence the terrific sound proceeded, when he perceived a prodigious fountain in this spot, rushing upwards, many feet high, and deluging the ground on ail sides. It' continued to flow in this manner for several days, forming a stream that discharged its wjters into a distant lake. It gradually ceased to overflow, and at length confined itself will in this bason, which I IS 109 Charles, bidder, through } of such them can sued the Tipy mea- those vast eighbour- :uated ge- led by an r probably lined in ii3 sent at the of water, pbcnoroe- e a hurri- ; and look- )y torrents, ace. The r grounds, sc, he took he terrific prodigious many feet sides. It' veval days, tors into d rflow, and on, which IS is fifty yards across, and continues full nearly to the verge, without once since overflowing its banks. The water is clear and well tasted, and crowded with fish, which satisfy the voracious ap- petite of a large alligator, who reigns lord of the place. The Siminoles are a division of the Creek na- tion. They are scattered through an extensive range of country in East and West Florida, which is generally a fertile, well-watered level, being na- \ turally divided into thousands ot islets, knolls, and gentle eminences, by innumerable rivers, lakes, swamps, and ponds, which afford them se- i cure retreats from the sudden attacks of an enemy, and supply them with fish and wild game in great abundance. Hunting is the principal" occupation of the men. With the hides of deer, bears, tygers, and wolves, they purchase clothes and domestic utensils from the traders. Their wants and desires are few, and easily satisfied, as appears from the cheerfulness of their countenances. The happiness that flows from the enjoyment of the natural afTections be- tween husband and wife, parent and child, is to be seen in their cabins : nor are they insensible to the pleasures of society, dancing being a favtairite amusement, accompanied with a simple soit of music. On some occasions thev love to decorate their persons. A party of young warriors saluted us one ^ 110 one day, as we were halting under a little grove of oranges and magnolias. They were all dressed and painted very smartly, and wore silver chains and ornaments ; their crests adorned, after the Siminole mode, with waving plumes of feathers. After we had taken our departure from Tasko- wila, we visited the town of Talahasockte, on the banks of St. Juan, which is a remarkably clear stream, said to take its source in a great swamp, one hundred miles north of this town. Here we were entertained at the trading house; and our compa- nions unloaded their pack-horses, and exchanged their goods for deer-skins, furs, dry fish, honey, bees* wax, bears' oil, and some other natural pro- ductions. These Indians have large, handsome canoes, which they form out of the trunks of cypress trees. Some of them conveniently accommodate from twenty to thirty persons. They descend the river in these canoes, on trading and hunting expeditions on the sea coasts, and sometimes extend their voyage even as far as Cuba. A crew of these adventurers arrived, whilst we were there, loaded with a cargo of coffee, sugar, tobacco, and spiritu- ous liquors, which cause the destruction of many of the Indian tribes ; for having once tasted rum, they have no longer the resolution to restrain them- selves. A drinking bout followed the openingof this baneful treasure; quarrels ensued ; and the peace- - ful » ■M I ful and ( gaii dis^ deb Ii cree of J won to til but ^ their conf( ing peace that i accor Th the r; town, ble tf captiv Thi town easteri Havin varied and c i rrove of dressed r chains ifter the athers. [1 Tasko- ;, on the jly clear amp, one we were ir compa- xchanged h, honey, tural pro- e canoes, ress trees, ate from the river peditions end their of these |re, loaded d spiritu- of many sted rum, ain ihem- ingofthis he peace- ful! Ill ful scene was changed to drunkenness, brawls, and confusion. Our friend, the trader, had concluded his bar- gains, and we were glad to withdraw from such a disgusting picture of human nature in a state of debasement. In our way to the town of Apalachuela, near a creek of excellent water, we found an encampment of Indians. The men were out a hunting. The women, willing to have a peep at strangers, came to the door of their tents, veiled in their mantle ; but when we paid our respects to them, shewed their faces with great modesty of behaviour. Apalachuela is esteemed the capital of the Creek confederacy, and sacred to peace, no captives be- ing ever put to death here. When a general peace is proposed, the deputies from the towns that form the union, meet here to deliberate on the accomplishment of the treaty. The great Coweta town, twelve miles higher up the river, on the contrary, is called the bloody town, because the Micas chiefs and warriors assem- ble there when a general war is proposed ; and captives taken in war are put to death at that place. Three days' journey brought us to Talassee, a town on the Tallaposse river, which is the north- eastern branch of the Alabama or Mobile river. Having passed over a vast extent of level country, varied by savannahs ; groves, where the squirrel and cameleon sport anwngst the trees ; lone iwamps ; 112 swamps ; and open pine forests, watered by innu- merable rivulets and brooks ; we altered our course towards the south, and approached the banks of the river, where ^ndian towns and planta- tions enlivened our road. Talassee stands in a fruitful plain, sheltered by a ridge of swelling hills. The houses consist of a wooden frame, with plaistered walls, and roofs of cypress bark: four of them compose one habitation and enclose an oblong square. Having taken a fresh store of provisions, and procured a guide to set us in the great trading path for West Florida, we proceeded, for eighteen railes, through a grand forest, frequently affording us a view of Indian towns, and at night pitched our tent under the shelter of a venerable oak. The first part ol our next day's journey lay across ex- tensive grassy plains, enamelled with a profusion of strawberries, which allayed our thirst, and re- freshed us inexpressibly. To this open country succeeded a forest, which in some parts bordered the Alabama river. For nine miles we rode through a continued grove of dog- wood trees, which being in bloom was really beautiful. Wild forest scenes, varied at times by flowing rivulets and gentle hills, con- ducted us to the borders of the Schambe, which we forded, and pitching our tenis on the oppoijitc bank, enjoyed a refreshing ni^lil's rest. Low swampy caiic neauows presented a less agreeable wc land scape by innu- cred our ched the d planta- ids in a swelling n frame, ess bark : i enclose ions, and iding path eigiiteen affording It pitched oak. Tiie cross ex- rofiision , and re- country bordered ontlnued n bloom s, varied ills, con- ?, which opposite Lov/ hjii-eeabie i 113 an dscap( landscape than the day before. As we approached the bay of jMobilc, we passed high rocky clilfs, that indicated beds of rich iron ore. We h)dged at Taetisa, which is a pretty high bluff, or bank of sand. The evening was sultry hot. About mid- niglit we were disturbed by a tremendous thunder- storm. The air and earth were refreshed by the rain, and we had a pleasant ride to the city ot Mo- bile, thougli it scarcely deserves that name. A few i Europeans, of diderent njiions, reside there, who carry on a trade with the Indians. From this place we proceeded directly tor Pensacola, which is de- lightfully situated on gentle rising ascents, sur- j rounding a spacious harbour, capable of containing ! a multitude of ships. Several rivers run into this ' bay, but none of them are navigable for large vessels. The governor's residence is a stone building, [ornamented with a tower built by the Spaniards. The tower is defended by a fortress; and many of the inhabitants have handsome, con- venient houses. After our long rambles, amongst savage tribes and a wild country, we enjoy a few days' repose, amongst people of our own colour and habits, who treat us with the mo.^t fiicndly hospitality. Such a favourable oppoiLuniiy for writing 1 would not neglect, believing you will be pleased to heai from your afTeciionate brotlier, ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER 1 114 f LETTER XVII, Mr. Ilinrij FranlUn to Mrs, Middlcton. Ptnsacola. Madam, IT is with pleasure I can as<5ure you that your son's health is improved by travelling, and his mind enlargv-d by associating with persons of different education and modes ot life. For some weeks our time has been spent very much amongst the Indian tribes. Their habits differ essentially from the Europeans. They are more the children of nature; and being unen- lightened by the sacred truths of Christianity, yield in principle, to revenge and cruelty, which we have been taught to subdue. Our acquaintance with this people is yet but slight ; I can therefore only point out a few leading traits of their charac- ter, which, however, may probably afford you some amusement. The Muskogees, which are probably the most numerous tribe of any within the limits of the United States, inhabit a hilly, but not a moun- tainous country, abounding in creeks and rivulets, whence they are often called Creek Indians. The aien are tall and well-shaped, their countenances cxpressivej exp The shot iful, and pose taws great Idlcton. rtnsacola. re you that filing, and persons of spent very 115 expressive of magnanimity and indcpcntlcnc*. The women, though delicately formed, are very short; but their features are often regularly beauti- Jful, particularly their eyes, which arc large, black, and languishing. Being ;y numerous, and ex- posed to their potent and declared enemy* the Chac- taws.thcy associate in large towns, which occasion* great scarcity of game, and obliges them to be vigi- |iant and industrious; qualities that form their manners to a dignified gravity, very conspicuous in the aged people. Their hospitality may serve as an example to nations that boast of being more civilized. If an Indian travels to a distant town, he enters the first heir habits house upon which he fixes his eye, without cere- They are|!"^0'^y» and says, ** I am come," *• You are — it is nff unen-1*^^'^" replies the master or mistress of the house; ristianity, lai^d immediately the table is spread with the best ty which J they have, and his arrival welcomed with the social quaintance Ip'P^* When sufficiently refreshed, he rises, and therefore |*^ys» ** I go." ** You do," is the answer ; and he eir charac- ■ takes his departure without interruption. In seve- dyou some r^l places we saw the vestiges of decayed Indian towns, often accompanied by a mount or terrace, the most 2nd neglected orchards of peaches and plums, its of the There are also barrows, or tombs of the dead, scat- t a moun- tered in different parts of the country. Wfe have d rivulets, seen them of various sizes ; some constructed of ans. The wrth, and sorae of loose stones. They are of such ntenances,] antiquity, expressive! I! J 16 anhquiiv, tliat it cannot be ascertained whether thcv enclose the bones of those who fell in a battle fought on the spot, or whether they are tlie remaini oi persons wlio ha%'e died at difTeient times and places, collected together into one vast grave, con- sistent with a supposed custom of these nations. Anotljcr (^pinion is, that they liave been general sepulchres for towns, built near the place; but for whatever purpose they have been made, they are highly venerated, and well known to the In- dians, as appears from their finding their way tlirough the most extensive forests, exactly to tlic spot : here they remain some time, and vent their sorrow in expressive lamentations. Some of these barrows have been opened, and found to contain.hu- man bones, of all sizes, thrown together without the least order or regularity. They are often covered with trees, and surrounded with a sort of ditch, ■whence, probably, the earth was taken, of which they ar ' composed. My own observations are not sufficient to enable me to define the peculiarities of the Muskogces ; but I will give you my senti- ments a-j to the general character of those Indians I liave seen. Tiie love of glory is their predomi- nant passion, and stimulates the youth to undergo the greatest hardships, and face the greatest dangers in the chace, in order to convince their parents, ano the council ot the nation, that they deserve to be en- rolled in the number of the warriors. The songs ot the women, the dance of the warriors, the sa.tre com urnp cess wlio with hero has n toga and t choic show ■but til great, their i hheco Jht the he and SI when I is evir they b( their e taken c characi tlie frie ■ <'aiise. '^ tu a Sp, :^^ith tw liuntin^ tua^t O: counsc 1 1 i \z whetlier rj a battle I remains imes and ave, con- £ nations, n general ace; but lade, tbey to the In- their way counsel of the chief^, lb u^ •% c^ he oltl, the fri- urnplial cntrv of the \vi is lel rnin? •^ !th su' - cess from the battle, and ihc respect j) ■ lo tlu s<3 who distinguish themselves in war, i.n a.e ila n with an ardent thirst tor military tame. A ^oi.t)^ hero, who lias atchieved any distinguished exploit, has no occasion to pay his court to a young woman to gain her alFcctions : the girls pay court to him, and think it an honour to become the object of his choice. The same principle forbids a father to show immoderate grief for a son slain in battle; ctly to the [ym their aflfections are as keen, and their sorrow as vent their great, as the civilized nations of liurope, when ne of these their children are sick, or are taken from them in :ontain.hu- ^Ithe course of nature. without thcjll Their courage is not that kind only tliat is felt in ^n covereajlithe heat of action; they know how to meet death of ditch, land suffer torture, without shrinking from either, of which 1 when the honour of their nation is concerned : as ons are not ^is evinced by the unshaken fortitude with which cculiaritics jthey bear the excruciating pains they suffer from my senti* i their enemies before they are put to death, when se Indians jtaken captives. Revenge is a strong feature in their picdomi- 1 character. They seem to consider it as a duty to o undergo the friends who have been injured, to avenge their St dangcvs||cause. A dreadful instance of this once happened larents, ano. uo a Spanish governor of St. Augustine, whose son, e to be en- iv Ith two of his friends, went on an expedition for The songs luuuing and fishing, in a small bark, on the southern the sage, cua^t of Florida. Attrac.cd by the variety of game, counsclli and •i I i : 11!^ u > I IlOU' tain Spir no n Tl burni guide tcntic Til !eof ha Int t)le lit t and the diversified scenes of the country, they Im. prudently ventured far beyond the Spanish lort. Just as they were entering a harbour for the night, they weic overtaken by a band of Creeks, vvlio car- ried them off to one of their towns. At that time there was a fierce war between the Spaniards and the Indians. The innocent captives were con- demned to be burnt. Some English traders, who had influence with the Indians, interfered to save them, both by entreaties and the offer of a large ransom ; telling them that they were young men of high rank, and one of them the governor's son. The reply of the chiefs, convened in council, comm W33 as follows. thans *' Brothers and friends, we have been consider- ^fvjiites ing this business concerning the ca that, under the eye and fear of the Great Sp You know that these people are our cruel enemies; #e had they save no lives of us red men, who fall in their |tollect< power. You say that the youth is the son of the I'away, Spanish governor. We believe it, and are sorry f canoe he has fallen into our hands ; but he is our enemy. r"'y» vv The two young men, his friends, are equally our y"arme( enemies. We arc sorry to see them here; but we 1'^^ whi know no difference in their flesh and blood. If •^^emseh we save one, we must save all three; but we can- ^^^nt tli not do it. The red men require their blood, to ^^'^'ir ohj ippease the spirits of their slain relations. They !'• Th -ogan, >f the \\| sen consider- , fviiites, iptives ; and |punish Great Spirit. Ifiel Cn have entrusted us v;ith the guardianship of our laws and rights. W'^e cannot betray them, W^e have, ho wever, 119 tliey im- jsh fort, he night, who ear- that time iards and rere con- lers, ^vha :d to save lowevcr, a sacred power to extend mercy to a cer- tain degree. A third is saved by lot. The Great Spirit allows us to put it to that decision. He is no respecter of persons." The lots were cast ; and the governor's son was burnt. In this instance they seem to have bcca guided more by error in judgment than a bad in- tention. The following anecdote will afibrd a fineexam- f a large |)le of their eloquence, and throw light on the spi- net men of **^ ^^^'*'' stimulates them to avenge their kindred, r's son. ^" ^^^^ spring of 1774 a robbery and murder were council, ;|Committcd on the frontiers of Virginia, by two In- ^jdians of the Shawanee tribe. The neighbouring g-^gj. Jwhites, according to their custom, undertook to and Ipnnish this outrage by their own authority. Colo- [fiel Cresap, a man inlamous for the many murders e had committed on those much-injured people, ollected a party, and proceeded down the Kan- away, in quest of vengeance. Unfortunately, cano« of women and children, with one man nly, w^s seen coming from the opposite sliorc, inarmed, and unsuspecting a hostile attack from he whites. Cresap and his followers concealed . 1 i^ ihemselves on the bank of the river; and the mo- can- ^^^"^ ^he canoe reached the shore, singled out 1 j^j ilicir objects, and at one fire killed every person in I. This canoe happened to contain the family of ogan, who had long been a distinguished friend I the whites. This unworthy return provoked his 1 con ives ; eat Spirit. 1 enemies; U in their on of the are sorry ur enemy, ually our e; but we blooc . They )f our laws KVe have, however, i ' I'iO f Hi is t J in \ ano C to tr that two ( coun be pi couni his vengeance. lie accordingly signalized himscil' in the war which ensued. A decisive battle was iouglu in the autumn be- tween the collected forces oi the Indians and the Virginians. The Indians were defeated, and sued for peace. Logan, however, disdained to be seen amongst the suppliants. But lest the sincerity of a treaty should be distrusted, from which such an eminent chief absented himself, he caused the fol- lowing pathetic speech to be delivered to Lord Dunmorc, then governor of the province. *' 1 appeal to any white man to say, if ever lie entered Logan's cabin hungry, and he gave him Silou not meat; if ever he came cold and naked, and lie (racte clothed him not. During the course of the ^3i(and cabin, an advocate tor peace. Such was my ^ovei] • for the whites, that my countrymen pointed asMjj , they passed, and said, Logan is the triend of ^'^^if'^l)pp^ ^• men. 1 had even thou'iht to have lived with vou.C^ , flsome but for the injuries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last spring, in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the relations of Logan, not sparin-' even my w. men and children. There runs not a drop ot my blood in the veins of any living crea- iiiouc( ent, h( nd saic efore ^ '^''lich ture. '1 liis called on me tor revenge. 1 havti. ° I'^e print souiiht It — 1 luive killed manv— 1 have iull' i . ^ , '^ . . ' *Ji'nati^. glutted my vr-geance. For my country, 1 rcjoicij y , •nited u »eam^ on T f zed blmseil' 121 autumn be- ins and the ind sued for o be seen iinccrity of :h such an sed the ioU :d to Lord cc. if ever he Colonel BvrA wa,, -»-»7'a was sent to ^^/a Pu i ;° — e .o.e business w L,'"*; 7 """"; tliat some of the border,=r= h a ''^ppened '-'•^'ha. nation. r:3r.e;eJe?'''?"=- counsel of the CJu-r^l '"''*'"'^ proposed m the be put ,0 Zu n "'" ''°'''"^' ^y-i ^''°"ld country^anll ""^" '"' "" '"" "^ "-> e gave him Silouee, who nn r "^^^ ^ •''"'=f oaHed keCand ,:e ..rac.ed ;';::„:■" ".T °"'^'""' '^^'' -"' of the la. LeiBy^d. f^Z^'^'' '^'^"'^''"P -'"> Colo. i-l'e in hHJU, , j^j ; '•"'e 'o hu„ every night i„ his tent. » ">^ '-|i.... After : ; "r :^',\f ^^ ^^-^ -t .i„ ponued a|,„ determination was „ ' "'^""°"' ''"-^^'^^ "d o wh„e|,,„,^ 'hat B^Ilrr^' '° ''""'''' "■ d with you. C^^^ . /'" snouJd be put to c\f^:^tU . j ^ fome warr brs w^.^ j- * aeath; and -' Cresapl,;,„„,^ '7 «^-e despatched as executioners. "P--^^ien.. he threw hl^lVr^^'^""'^^ ^'-^ the "" ^P^-^nd said ,0 the w rT, ,?'" "'^'" ^"^ Byrd. '^'"8 ""l^lnch they fe.ur 15 T,""" ''"' '"'^•" "" e- i ^^^^'iin • '^turned; and the council r« have full r P""^'I"^ - -nuch as to recede fZ 1 '/" runation. ^^ "^eir deter- y. I ^ej-;- Their ura thougU 'cr felt fcari H '"Jted under th government ^s a kind of rf* e conduct of con fed '">'ly has a peculiar chief one chief. £ who is d eracv very town 'stmguisht'd by 122 i am ch son the! intc gatl] isier they and ( I the ' an na by a particular title, and whom the whites commonly call Sachem. The several towns or families that compose a tribe, have a chief who presides over it ; and the several tribes composing a nation have a chief, who is the supreme ruler of the whole. These chiefs are generally men advanced in years, and distinguished by their wisdom in council. The chiefs of the towns settle the private affairs of their neighbours. The appointment of warriors, and settling difTerenccs between townships and fa- milies, are regulated at a council of the chiefs from the several towns ; and making war, con- eluding peace, or forming alliances with the neigh- >P ^''• bouring nations, are the subjects of deliberation inlj^ ^' the national council, attended by the principal warriors and chiefs from the towns, who are coun- sellors to the chief of the nation. •?• v In every town there is a council-house. Eveiy tribe has a fixed place for the transaction of the public business belonging to it ; and in every na tion there is the coancil-house, where consultation are held on the affairs of the state. Their religious ideas are confused with strange| * superstitions and absurd fables. They believe inl^ the superintending providence of a Supreme Being, whom they adore under the title of tl: Great Spirit, or Lord of the Universe. Him ilic invoke for protection at home, and assistance i war ; and honour him by fcastSj in order to procur favourabi ven w idW'ing form I the ev ood aSllhc' ■ < rhey J ccordi i the ^iorc so ndoost; cms, iio * U 1 mm only lies that over it ; 1 have a e whole, in years, council, affairs of warriors, ps an d ta. the chieU war, con- 123 favourable seasons for hunting. These feasts are annually held in winter, on returning from the chiCe; when choice carcases are presented, and sometimes a white dog is sacrificed. They repeat these ceremonies in spring, before the seed is put into the ground ; and after harvest, when they have gathered the produce. They believe also in the ex- istence of interior deities; especially two, of whom they relate a strange allegory, representing the good and evil principles. According to their tradition, the good being, to wliom they give a very hard Indi.. an name*, had a twin brothert, of an opposite dis- position, under which they represent evil. Their • Ij grandmother, say they, was cast down from hea- • Ji^^" when she was with child of their mother, and ^ P^' |!^'*^''"S °" ^^^ ^^^^ of 3 great turtle, began to are Ijtorm the earth. M' hen the two brothers grew up the evil one ever endeavoured to frustrate the T^v'eivH Igood intentions of his beneficent brother. At "ttion o "last they fought, and the earth shook at the combat. Jrbey passed over the continent of America ; and ^"*" liccording to their different agitations and tones of oicc, the nations who afterwards were produced fitn sir b IpQj^g different languages. Such is their history o ^^ r}*^ '^^ creation ; and though very absurd, not uorc so than some of the fables of the natives of iiidoostan. When compared with all other sys- [cms, liow docs the Mosaic acrount of the same .It Supiem^l le of i^' Him the ;sistancc top locur favou^abi rcliaror>chvawaRon, t r'a\vialvi4ron G 2 ^reat 12i I :' great event rise in sublimity ! But my observa- tions on this subject, to you, are needless. 1 am, most respectfully, your's, HENRY FRANKLIN. LETTER XVIIL From Arthur Middlcton to his Brother, Nush\'HU\ Dear Edwin, AFTER a tew days' rest at Pensacola, Mr. Franklin, whose nind is ever active, became impatient to pursue the object he had undertaken, and I was ready to follow him. We therefore took our departure in a boat, well stored, by the kindness of our friends, with every thing we could want ; and keeping near the coast, upon which wc observed several farms and plantations, proceeded to Pearl river. We landed on a small island of the same name: in the middle it rises to some height, but is nearly begirt with salt marshes, except a pro- montory, composed of white clam shells and sand. We embarked again, and were presently put asho opposite to New Orleans, which we reached ( foot, having disposed of our horses at Pensacol New Orleans is the capital of Louisiana, and stan(ls| on the east side of the Mississippi. A few yea IS a<^c Its bui grai tile sipp ing ha^t( I the : ^ had I I serve objeci grand thcr, MancI face o in the i an Ind, inufactL omeol our owing uberosc jerfcctic The c '^n in ( .'lat grov feat nur ajio ^ observa- NKLIN. f i| 1^5 'Other. Nashville. Pensacola, c, became ndenakcn, : therefore ed, by the g we could I which we proceeded land of the me height, cept a pro > and sand. put ashore cached on Pensacola. and stands few years ago 3go it was almost destroyed bv ;, .^r u t r ■-dva„.ages for .adele ^ '^^ f = ^^ buiidin? verv fj«f , i • , ^ ' "' " 's re- s ><:'> last, and is kp?,, ,„ i grand mart for the nati.r.l , ^""""^ 'he 'i'eand extensive en P""'""'°"^ "^ ">- 'e.- ''PPi and the O , ;°"S7n '''l '^'^^^ 'he M..,. ha-te, and having hired a h,' ''"^"-Ped m :^e-K"^.^S:oX::e:i:; f "''"^- The banks n;;]:,^:if,%]:"P of sublu., ' ". and are clothed with nt " ° " T ' ano- Jfanchac the shores are fif,,T " K '"T" ''' [face of the river- h,„ , ^ "'e ,sur. " 'he spring Z;!' "'" ^''""^ =-' -erflowed an Indian vS|a„V ' " "l""'^^'-"- We saw at vijiage, a lew miles frn-r, tk h'ac.ures of earthen ware a ,H ' '""- t-eofthelatterwepuXsed r"''"'"^' ° -r qtrarters. we pas j a ,. ' "" "'^ '"^'^ S'o-ing with fine flowers n! , 'T'"^ «"''<="' "^erose. wh,ch growl he' 'r."'' "" '^^^raat i-erfcetion. ^ "' "" ""= °P'^" air to ^ eat The eandleberry myrtle, or wax fre • ^" '" these parts, h i, ' u ^;'^^''' " ''""* '- "umbers oi Irg'l'^rh- "' P™''"" gc round hemes, which are '^ covered k i IJi 126 covererl with a coat of a waxy substance, preferred by tbe inhabiunis to bees' wax, for candles." We sutfcred greatly from the stings oi rausriui- toes, in our passage from Manchac to the Natcl;es, a settlement that is often called the Mississippi ter- ritory. Though llic climate is very unwholesome, causing intermitting fevers in the summer and au- tumn, numbers oi emigrants fix their abode there, on account of the profitable culture of the long- woolled cotton, a plant that succeeds admirably in that soil. Here we were again obliged to procure* h^—- > , . . .- , , . »viio were ffoint^ to and join a party ot ♦"-- . -, , .,, ^ACept a tew villages belonijinff to • lie Chicasaw Indians, there was no prospect oti "■eeing a to'.vn, or the traces oi a human habitation,] ior six hundred miles. Our company, of course, were under the necessity of loading a sufficierul number of pack-horses with provisions for tliisl dreary journey, not daring to rely on game and' fish only, which we sometimes obtained on ourj way. Without attempting to weary you with the particulars of every day, 1 shall only say, that fori near five hundred miles we traversed a sandy, levdf country, partly covered with pines, which woul have been insufTerably tedious, but for the ever! entertaining conversation, and uninterrupted kindj ness of Mr, Franklin, whose conduct daily in creases my esteem and attachment to hirn. the 1 1 )rc(errcd iS. Natches, sippi it^r- lolesomc, r and au- ode there, the long- ' mirabiy in . iTP ^'^ ' e going to longing to >rospcct ot habitation, ot" course,! sufficiervtl ^s for this] game andi ed on out u with tiiCj y, that for] landy, levd| lich woulc the everl :;,tcd kindj It daily 127 As we approached the sides of the Tencssec, the country became extremely rich and tcrtilc.and perhaps appeared with greater advantage to us irom the contrast to that we had just lift. \Vc were conducted through this extensive wilderness by a nuTc path; but the fa'deral government ol the L'liited Stales is forming a broad road, with secure bridges over the small rivers that interrupt it, which will enable future travellers to go in a car- riage, from Bosrori to New Orleans, a distance of two thousand miles. Nashville is the principal town in this part of Tenessee, and is built on a barn rock, on the river Cumberland, the banks of which arc formed of a mass of brimstone, full sixty irct in height. The houses are scattered about in an irregular manner, and, except a very few of brick, are made with planks. Here are several stores or shops for goods of different kinds, but they are dear, and inclifTcicnt- ly supplied. Though it stands close to the side of a river, the inhabitants find it difficult to procure water, as there are no springs to be found near it. You will easily believe that the forests produce different species of trees, according to the nature of tlie soil; cons^rquently I have lately observed 'some that I liave not mentioned in my former letters, particularly the cherry tree; white wal- nut; !)uck eye; white, black, and blue ash; ack- beny ; slippery elm; blackjack oak; coffee tree; honey locust; and the papaw, which bears a fruit as large as a hen's egg. The white and yellow G4 tulip 128 tulip tree, (distinguished only by the colour of the timber,) and the cucumber tree, are often eiglueen feet in circumterence ; and the planes attain a still greater size. Ginsing is a plant that is found in America, from Lower Canada to Georgia. It grows on the declivities of mountains, in cool, shady places, and in the richest soil. We were told by a person who d*ial.s in it, that it was first discovered in Ca. uada, by a Fiench missionary. As it was known to be highly valuable to the Chinese, who procure it from the Tartars, it became an article of com- merce with China; and for a short time was sold for its weight in gold, but s<»on iell in its price, from being badly prepared. The hunters collect the roots, which is the part used chiefly tor medi- cine, and sell them when dry to the inland mer- chants, who supply those in the sea ports for ex- portation. The Chinese have a method of making those roots in some degree transparent, which greatly enhances the value. Some Americans have learned this art, but they keep it a secret. Formerly there were elks and bisons in the coun- try of Kentucky, but since the settlement of the Europeans they are no longer to be found. Troops of one or two hundred were seen feeding toge- ther, and they were so tame as not to fear the hunters, who frequently killed them for the sake of the tongue only, which is esteemed a dainty. Fear and want of food have driven them to the • • • banks dog« as alwa hunter. Wood, 1 lur of the eighteen ain a still America, vs's on ihc laces, and a person ed in Ca- as known U9 banks of the Mississippi. The most Common wild animals in this country now are deer, bears, wolves, foxes, wild cats, raccoons, opossums, and several kinds of squirrels. The raccoon is very destructive in the maize fields. It climbs up the stems, breaks them down, and gnaws the cars. The farmers hunt it with dogs in the night, for it generally lies concealed during the day. The planters have most enmity against the squirrels, which make great havoc amongst the wheat. Several times a day the chil- dren arc sent round the fichls to scare them from lO procure f. the corn. At the least noise they run off by dozens, and take refuge in the trees, where they hide till they have a safe opportunity of returning to the spoil. These animals, like the bears, change their situation with the season, and at the approach of winter appear in such multitudes in Kentucky, that the farmers are obliged to unite to hunt them. 1 have been invited to one of these great hunting matches. The hunters divided into pairs, many of which killed thirty or forty squirrels ; but had they not had a partner, they would scarcely have killed one, because these cunning little creatures lay themselves along the trunk of the tree which they have climbed, and turn about so dexterously, as always to keep the tree between them and the banter. A dinner was provided for us in the wood, and upwards of sixty poor squgs were G 5 " roasted : ; was its price, 2rs collect for medi- and mer- s for ex- of making It, which cans have • the coun- lent of the Troops ling toge- fear the the sake a dainty :m to 130 roasted : and delicate white meat they are, and eat better roasted than any other mode of cooking them. Sincerely hoping you may never have a worse dinner than a roasted squirrel, I put an end to this long epistle, which I hope will afTord you and my sisters some amusement. ARTHUR MIDDLETON, LETTER XIX. Mr. H. Franklin to Edwin Middleton, Knoxville, My dear Edwin, AS I know your desire of enriching your mind with useful knowledge, I endeavour to col- lect such information as shall add to your stock, and at the same time afford you some amusement, The slate of Tenessee, part of which we crossed in our way hither, had no white settlements in it before the year 1780, nor did the emigrants fix ihere in considerable numbers till nine years after tvards. The Cherokees harrassed them on all oc- casions, and obliged them to carry on a fierce war, till, overcome by superior force, they were com pelled to yield to a peace, and confine themselves to f ), to tw tU( it f cip will tain lan( divi of I wesi that fron rivei rear causi beco ever, that i deep watei times have Th and t sisten old St Col cnricl 1 131 re, and eat F cooking e a worse end to this )u and my LETON, dleton. Knoxiille. chingyour our to col- vour stock, musement. we crossed nents in it grants fix y^ears after- on all oc- fierce war, were com- ihemsclves to to the southward of this province, which lies be- tween their territories and the new state of Ken- tucky. Before this country was admitted into the Union, it formed a part of North Carolina. Its two prin- cipal rivers are the Cumberland and the Tenessee, which are separated by the Cumberland Moun- tains, and both fall into the Ohio. The Cumber- land Ridge runs obliquely through the state, and divides it into two parts, distinguished by the names of East and West Tenessee. The district on the western side of the mountains, is twice as large as that on the other, and is very fertile, as appears from the vast size of the trees. Most of the smaller rivers lose their waters in the Cumberland, and are nearly dry in summer, which, it is feared, will cause a scarcity of water, when the country shall become more populous. The people may, how- ever, find a resource in the large brooks, or creeks, that are never dry, which issue in many places from deep caverns at the bottom of the low hills. As the water rushes from its subterraneous bed, it is some- times attended by a current of air so strong, that I have seen it extinguish a light. The mildness of the climate, fertility of the soil, and the certainty of acquiring a comfortable sub- sistence, draw multitude* of emigrants from the old states hither. Cotton is the staple commodity by which they enrich themselves. Those who have no negroes C 6 cultivate 132 cultivate it with the plougli, taking care to keep it well weeded and hoed ; but it they can af- ford to purchase slaves, it is planted on parallel nd^res, twelve or filteeii feet high, made with the hoe. Spinning the cotton employs the wo- men and children. I one day stopped at a house to get a draught of milk, where the mis- tress had just received a prize of ten piastres from the legislature of the state, for producing the best piece of manufactured cotton. The wealthy en- courage this rivalship amongst the women, by wearing calicoes made in the country. Those emigrants who are not able to purchase lands, hire them for eight or ten bushels of maize, for every iicre they clear ; and, by their bargain, they are obliged to build a log- house on the farm. Many churches are not yet built inTenessee : to supply the deficiency, it is common for the people to meet in the woods of a Sunday, to hear a dis- course from some itinerant preacher. *• ' •.'.'**> East Tenessec lies between the highest part of the Allegany and the Cumberland Mountains, and is watered by a great number of small rivers, that descend from them, and cross it in all directions. It is a hilly country, and not very fertile, and pro- duces, principally, pines and oaks of different spe- cies ; one of these is called the over-cup white oak, the acorns of which are as large as an egg, Maize, or Indian corn, is much cultivated here, but it dues not grQW to such perfection as on the western t and c I W ral ^ most to fii Balti We defei oppc cesS( ver, ceiv I to keep can af- 1 parallel ade with ; the wo- pcd at a the mis- stres trom g the best ;althy en- 3mcn, by purchase I of maize, ir bargain, the farm, nessee : to the people car a dis- [St part of [tains, and [vers, that lirections. and pro- Icrent spe. up white ued here, IS on the western 133 western side of the mountains, where it reaches to the height of eleven feet ; and the cars are often nine or ten inches long, and thick in proportion. Numerous herds of cattle are reared by the far- mers, who send them four or five hundred miles to the towns on the sea coast. Though these animals are very wild, from living in the woods, and have a number of rivers to cross, and uncultivated fo- rests to traverse, yet very few of them arc lost in the journey. Not being satisfied with the general account I had received of East Tenessce, I determined to direct our course that way. We advanced through beau- tiful forests, and were frequently entertained by the owners of plantations, thickly scattered on the borders of the road, though always sequestered in the midst of woods. The inhabitants live in good log houses ; most of them are assisted by negroes, and enjoy plenty with content. We observed a stone house belonging to Gene- ral Winchester, much superior in elegance to most of the dwellings in the country. In order to finish it completely, carpenters were had from Baltimore, at near seven hundred miles distance. We halted at Fort Blount, which was erected to defend the first emigrants against the Indians, who opposed their settlement; but being no longer ne- cessary, the fortification are destro) cd. Roaring Ri- ver, one of the branches of the Cumberland, re- ceives its name from the confuted noise occasioned by 13 1 by the falls of the water, over the sudden depres- sions of its bed, which is formed of large, flat stones, close to each other. These falls are six, eight, or ten feet in height, and follow one ano- ther so closely, that they may be compared to a vast flight of steps. Large round stones, five or six feet across, lie in the middle of the river ; but it is not possible to say how they came there. The right bank rises in some places to a hun- dred feet, and is overtopped by projecting rocks, in some parts covered with a kind of white moss, resembling snow. The prospects are rendered still more romantic, by a number of magnificent cascades, formed by large rivulets, which, after meandering through the forests, fall over the shores of Roaring River, and are lost amidst its waters. The rocks are co- vered with moss, which forms a verdant carpet, beneath the rich flowering trees and fhrubs that grow here in great variety. On the banks of this river are several caverns, that produce alum of so pure a quality, that the inhabitants use it in dyeing, and export it to Ken- tucky. Having supplied ourselves with provisions, we entered the mountainous territory of the Chero- kees. At midnight we encamped near a small ri- ver, where there was plenty of grass, and after having made a fire, lay down in our blankets, watching our horses by turns, with Sancho, lest the i depres- rge, flat are six, ;ne ano- ared to a , five or rer ; but :re. o a hun« ig rocks, ite moss, romantic, >rmed by r through ng River, :s are co- it carpet, rubs that caverns, that the to Ken- ^ions, we Chero- small ri- md after (blankets, ;ho, lest the 135 the Indians should steal them, which they are very apt to do, without the strictest precaution. In the morning we packed up our baggage, and met several flocks of wild turkeys, forty or fifty in a company. A party of Indians, who were seek- ing for summer grapes and chinquapins, a well- tasted small species of chesnut, crossed our road, and in exchange for some of their fruit, received a couple of loaves of bread, which to them is a great luxury; their common food being chiefly deer's flesh roasted. Small boards, painted black, are nailed against the trees, to show travellers how far they have gone; after passing two of these, since our traffic with the Indians, we saw a carriage full of weal- thy emigrants, foil-owed by their negroes on foot» At the confluence of the rivers Clinch and Hol- ston, we passed a pallisaded fort, built on a high hill, called West Point. About a mile beyond it, the road goes through Kingstown, composed of near forty log-houses. In the evening we reach- ed Knoxville, which is the seat of government of the state of Tencssee. It is but a small town, built almost entirely of wood, and has no manu- factures but that of tanning leather : there is, however, some trade, and the stores arc better fur- nished than those at Nashville. The traders obtain goods from Philadelphia by land, which is distant six hundred and forty miles ; and ' 13G and they send flour, cotton, and lime, by the river Tenessee, to New Orleans, which is as far, A merchant, who is now setting ofF for Phila- delphia, will take this letter, and forward it to Eng- land by the first vessel that sails fiom that post. 1 am your very affectionate friend, HENRY FRANKLIN^ 1 LETTER XX. Arthur Middlcton to his Brother Edwin. Dear Edwin, >%• THE love of variety supports mc under the fatigues and hardships we are often obliged to sufTer, in passing through uninhabited or savage districts; and I console myself, when I have no other bed than the hard ground, that when I return to my native country, the meanest accommodations will satisfy me, nay will appear luxurioiis, in compari- son with those I have often been glad to procure amongst the wilds we have traversed. We have lately passed through the territory of the Cheiokee Indians: they are a warlike people, and vigorously resisted the intrusion of the first settlers. Their siaturc is abo ; the middle size, and chi hav cull plan imp( and theii berty groes they Th leave twcen to the Ihcv shoes tuft of ed intc of the decora A gre« gristle they ar grow t( to therr which ( In m ne river r Phila. to Eng- post. KLIN- 1 : re:aHtoxvii, nder tbe to suffer, districts; other bed rn to my ions will compari- procure ritory of people, the first Idle size, and 137 and they are plumper than might be expected, from the long fasts they often endure, whilst pur- suing the wild animals in the woods, which is their chief sustenance; though for some years past they have followed the example of ilic vvliitc settlers, in cultivating tlieir lands. Some of them liave good plantations, and negroes to labour for them. It is impossible to imagine any set of men more free and independent than these savage tribes, and their contempt for a slave ecjuals tlieir love of li- berty ; consequently they despise the poor ne- groes still more than the white people do, though they arc willing to employ tliem. The men commonly wear a shirt, which they leave loose; and a piece of blue cloth passed be- tween their legs, and fastened behind and before, to their girdle, which serves them for breeches. They cover their legs and feet with gaiters, and shoes or socks, made of prepared deer-skin. A tuft of hair is left on the top of their heads, form- ed into several tresses, which hang down the sides of their faces ; and very frequently the ends are decorated with feathers, or small pipes of silver. A great many of thera make holes through the gristle of the nose, to put rings into; and when they are very young, cut their ears, and make them grow to a great length by hanging pieces of lead to them. They paint their faces red, blue, or black, which disfigures them very much. In many respects the women dress like the men: they i:3s they wear a man's shirt, and short petticoat, with socks and gaiters oi deer's skin. They let all their hair grow, which, like that ot the men, is of a jet black, but they do not pierce the nose or cut the ears. In winter, both men and women defend them- selves from the cold by a woollen blanket wrap- ped round their shoulders. A blanket is an essen- tial part of their baggage, and they always carry one with them. The fcederal government encou- rages them to be industrious, by furnishing them with implements for agriculture, and tools for han- dicraft trades. Some of the women have learned to spin, and weave cotton cloth. ' .- At a store near Fort Blount, we saw a great number of these people, who had brought ginsing, and the skins of bears, deer, and otters, to ex- change for coarse stuffs, knives, hatchets, and other articles. Their intercourse with the white people has altered their manners, in a small degree, as we were told by a very aged chief, whom we saw in one of their towns. He said, that when he was a young man, they had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes, knives, razors, nor guns; but that they then made use of their own stone axes, clay pots, flint knives, and bows and arrows : and that he was the first man who brought these articles from the whites, having walked with a load of them on his back several hundred miles. It. was delightful to see the vene- ration and respect that was paid to this white- Leaded, 3at, with : all their i of a jet ic or cut :nd them- s.et wrap- an essen- ays carry [It encou- ling them Is tor han- ^e learned w a great lit ginsing, rs, to ex- and other iie people jree, as we iwe saw ill he was a ots, hoes, hen made nt knives, first man s, having k several the vene- is white- headed» headed, hlind old man, for he had lost his sight from great age. One morning his attendants had led him to the council fire, n\ the centre of the public square, when he addressed the people in the following words : " BROTHERS AND FRIENDS, *' You yet love nie; what can I now do to merit your regard ? Nothing. I am good tor iio- tiiing. I cannot see to shoot tlie buck, or h\int up the sturdy bear. I know I am but a buithen w ^^u . I iidve lived long enougli; now let my spirit go. I want to see the warriors of my youtli, in the country of spirits. Here is the hatchet, (laying bare his breast,) take it, and strike." The square resounded with one united voice, •' We will not ; wc cannot. We want you In our councils." The old chief seemed alFccted at the regard of his countrymen, and indeed 1 am not ashamed to say, I could not restrain my tears. for some miles beyond Knoxville, the land was poor and stoay, producing a great number of chin- quapin oaks, not above a yard high, but so loaded with acorns, that they were bent to the ground. The sorrel tree is common in this country ; it it grows to a great height, and is adorned with ele- gant bunches of white flowers. We had comfortable quarters, one night, at the house of a farmer, whose log-house was divided into two apartments; a luxury not very common ill \ ill' ' 140 in this neighbourhood. Some very fine apple trees were planted round the house, besides an or- chard lor peaches, which are preferred For the sake of the brandy they make from them. Here we | saw two tamilies who were going to settle in Te- liCssee. They looked poor, were very ragged, and were followed by their children, barefooted and in their shirts. Rich< th( •'cstern country, do not consis* in money, as with us ; but in the abundance of con» and other necessary provision, which the indus- trious raise for themselves. We stopped at the iron works, about thirty miles beyond Knoxville. The iron obtained from them is said to be of an excellent kind. Small rock crystals of the most beautiful transparency, are found in abundance in this part of the country. I did not fail to collect some of the finest of them for my sisters, hoping to enrich their cabinet with many valuable curiosities when I return. We lodged at Greenville, a small town of about forty log-houses ; and passing over a country rather hilly, reached Jonesborough to dinner, the next day. It is the last town in Tenessee ; the houses are buih with planks. Whilst dinner was preparing I read the newspaper, which is pub- lished here once a week. Our journey from this place to Morgantown, in North Carolina, was across the Allegany Ridge, of which I must give you some account. In Penn- sylvania and Virginia this chain of mountains ap- pears Ipcai othel bctvv it is Ibut |Ten( joiiiej «ize, i iie n tl duie s the it : 1 aw fi( xtent ides c lothed re moj New n the ( ealtiiir vater, ; :attle, 't A sp( ong, is ator of i lie I ert in ears wi '5 thes' 141 pears like high rldae. n. i .between them extends to a Z "^ u " '^''^ f is filled wuh a n.uhit.rr"'^^''^^^^^^^ N ^-. on the confin:f ; K^^^^^^^ penessee. they rise sin.Iv to a ^ '"' '"^ . ^ ^ lioined together onlv at u ^^'""' ^^'^^''^» ^^'"S footed and I- ^ , / °"'y ^^ the base. Thev .V.rr f ^' and are distinguished by 'Z ^'^'' ^" 1^ he great Father \r ^ pecuJiar names, notconsis* ^ nn r '^^^' ^^^^"ntain is in the fire. 1^ n the Iron AIoMn.^jn ., ... " '^^ ^^^t rank; Hi #l...uNf '^"» the Black Mount. ;„ .. fine apple sides an or- For the sake Here we ttle in Te- •agged, and ice of corii the Indus- hirty miles Dm them is k crystals, found in I did not m for my ath many n of about I country inner, the ssee ; the nncr was I is pub- ntown, in Ridge, of In Penn- itains ap. pears do U th ie M e on """'^'"•-"d'l'eVelWAr Mountain, the ly 0"e that is free f ,7 "'"• '''''^'' is nee irom trf^f*^ :,♦ .l_ " V ""' ^'^'"''ered to the higl,e, ni trees at th e sum- ww fj om thence all those I points of it, and ave named, and a vast -^tent of mountainous countrv Th " ^^« of these mot.nt..nc "/• ^}' "^^^ clothed ountains are ^^ith the calico tree, th sometimes ent; ern rely re most beautiful e flowers of which ^^w settlers i'n the decl are continually fi mill '^'^ties of .nese hi] A in iness of th ^'ater, and il N^^e, 'tha 1 e situation, tl ig th eir abode S auracied by the ^^ goodness of the ;Muanticiesofw,Idpeas, forf, A t overrun the ground ■ed intr species of sal Ng, is found in the torre f'ltor of the mc ^ 'Jc inhabita ht in the ch fears with str these '"^nder, or water ef ^n the large wood« ountains. nis ofth nts, called 1 t, two feet *e^e tho alii. ace. 1 s rude dis frict are V n autumn i|i cry ex. unwcj '^^OgS, which, With... '^Jy creatures, tease and ^y pursue tlie out approach, aggravate fhtia ]14 all purcl taliov pers iTiein, till thcv force them to climb a tree, wlicre llicy arc shot h-, tiie liunters. The bear is a very profitable animal to these people. They prefer the flesh as the most vvhulesonie and agreeable of any kind of meat. The hind legs are made into hamv the fat is used instead ol oil, and the skin brings some money into their purse. They fatten in win- der npon roots, acorns, andchcsnuts; and in the southern countries, plunder the orange groves ot their Iruit. If driven by hunger, they fall upon the pigs; and sometimes, from necessity, attack men. Thick fogs prevail in the valleys, and render them very cold. The track that we pursued was Idred i often distinguished with difficulty ; and as we tra-«niym veiled many miles without seeing a single house, we were obliged to rely upon our mcmor" in ob. serving large rocks, or remarkable trees, which had ^ en named to us, as tokens that we had not lost ©ur road, Sancho was compelled to carry a hatchet, to clear the way through forests of rhodo- dendron?:, eighteen or twenty feet high, the branches of which were so interwoven, that with- out this precaution we could not force a passage. In some parts, the descent was so steep, wc could scarcely sit upon our horses, but found it prudent to get off and lead them. Often we had torrents to cross, the bottoms of which were co vercd with loose flints; and in other places, largcliave tak flat stones lay across the road, and rendered ourlderable journey very fatiguing. However, we surmounte(i|give som ail M Mf Y I 143 P, wlicrc s a very 3reierthc e ot anv in brings :n in win- ail these difEculties; passed tlic Blue Ridges, and the Mountains of Linncville, which are not quite 80 high, but the path is steeper and more difficult to ascend; and at icn;^ili arrived at Morgantown, a small place, consisting ot plank houses, inhabited by working people. There is only one store, that supplies all the country for five and twenty miles nd in tlic round, with English mercary and haberdashery; groves ot | which, when they have a scarcity of money, they I upon the ipurchase with smoked hams, barrelled butter, ack men. itallow, skins, or ginsing, I send this letter by ind render fla person going to Charlestown, which is two hun- irsued was Idred and eighty-five miles distant. With love to [ as we tra-Jmy mother and sisters, believe me always your's, igle house, lor^' in ob-| which had I d not lost o carry a s of rhodo- high, thel ARTHUR MIDDLETON. that wi th. passage. steep, found itl we LETTER XXI. Mr. II, Franklin to E chain Middle ton. Lexington, ;n we bad My dear young Friend, IN our way from Morgantown hither, we lave taken a circuitous direction through a consi- idered ourlderable part of Kentucky, which qualifies me to jive some account of this new settled province. Some |h were co- largc ices, lurmo unted ai 1 est in ridge, ecn. •cry I hen ^ J4i Some Virginian hunters discovered it about the year 1770, and gave such a favourable report of the country, that others were in a tew years induced to form settlements there. This extensive territory was not inhabited by any Iiidian nation ; they only came there to hunt : but so tenacious are they of their rights, that they resisted the establishment of the white people, by 4nixe destroying all who were not defended by numbers; forest which gave it the name of Kentucky, or the Land of Blood. After many of the first emigrants had been put to death, according to the Indian custom, by the most cruel tortures, they no longer emi- grated by sipgl^ Idmilies, but united in such mui- tiiudes that bore down all opposition : in sonieBtream years twenty thousand persons have fixed them-lhape c selves there, which has raised the price of land, andlrc nev occasioned much imposition in the sale of it. mn ihcs The river Olio b(mnds this state on the northman, w :\nd west tor above seven hundred miles. Virginiawr eitrj lies on the east side of it, and Tenessee to the south. lut her It is neither mountainous nor level ; and its prinAd two cipal minerals aie limestone and coal. I^adowf Its most considerable rivers are the Kentucky!? able t and Green, which after running about three hun-Jcscntcf dred miles, lail into the Ohio. The size of theselad to (t< streams, and the rest in this country, differ much! the p according to the season : in summer, many of thcmlrts of may be crossed on foot, which in winter swell tof ongst a considerable breadth; a circumstance that put jf-ich the the t about the eport of the i induced to IM ihabitcd by ;re to hunt : ts, that they people, by >y numbers; or the Land ligrants had ''■= "'habitants, in many place, , ' '"-■ "^>re„s. or meadows of K ', , '■--x,y,„.,„„„,„^j;''^-'"cky. extend h°<'' • '-^"m .I.CT name J ^""""^"^ ^^ "^Pnscd to see them . . " ^5'-eeably ^^c ineni covered wiiU ^ ^"''^'i w,t|, flo,,„i '^" "'"> grass. , nter- -«'^ and cultivated eoun;v ^r "'■"'""= ""ng scene; as, excen, a /' "'" '" ""'"'=- -•%=». sca^cei^jny. z;a:::::iv''^- .an custom, leen. Wc observed m.nf l *" '"^''■'' ">■ longer em..|ery near the surface . ^ "'""^■"•'=°"« caverns. , such mul-lften glad to q„ench our .1 ir!t .tT:'"',;'"' "^^« i: m somellream of water in • '''^- ^ -- s. Virginialr eighteen -nontl. J,e ^ J"'™^'"'' '"''' "'-hat o the souihJut her own family ,.l,- i '"" '"'''" ''">' P"-*""" ,nd its prinld two chUdren ' Vh • '"""""^ "' '^ ''"'band i"^-s t. burn; cle:;r:':'"; ''T'' •" ""^- : KentuckyI able to get at the „ew g,."' 1 "^ '"'"'^ "'Y three hunlcscnted so ,it.,e varie.f 1 h"? r'' "^'"^ ' ize of thesela,! to get into a more , i'.b; j "'' °' "^ ^-•- lifTer muchi the people have jCi^^'f^'T ''"'' any of thcrolns of Virginia; and fh "" "''"°'= er swell tojiongst the lower o! • ' " S'""'''''.^"' ''speciallv :e thatpm.Wh 'hey arc d,s,i,,gj;!r,7":';" "" ^""''^ ''T the b"'.U. Whence did you come :' — where arc you going P what is your namr ?— where do you live ? — and why do you travel ? — are to be answered wherever 'f unirr vou stop, till the repetition becomes truly tire- j consi \V WdV < a sma iicral , lof bid [man o not ve |to ranJs I wr he mic ith W( nited . n a rcg ach oth fdnckf; exingtc incc. i^rebeiri; ^cr, tw( cwspape crory; i hemp, and grain, are cultivated with success ; buL the cold often sets in too early to suffer the cotton plant to ripen. Peachesare the fruit most cultivated, though, probably, other kinds would thrive. Pig: are turned into the peach orchards a little whilcj before the fruit is •ripe, that they ma)' feast upo: the wind-falls. Immense quantities ot peaches ai; distilled into brandy: a great deal of this intox: d th< eating liquor is drunk, and the rest is cxportc Horses and cattle arc principal articles of coir.l merce in Kentucky ; and salt is absolutely ncci: sary to fatten them : in all the western states, k : mixed with their food, and is an allurement them to return from the woods to tlu- ])lantativ)n Wild turkeys arc numerous, and \n tlic unii. els in con- conimon sitive, and qiicstionr.. ou going ? live ? — and d wherever truly tirc- thc popu- )poit ihcm, jrals ot the jsc oi their cdiate sup Tobacco, jccess ; bu: r the cotton : cultivated^ ;irive. Pig little whilq ' feast upo peaches ar this inLo.x: is exportc les ot coir.i jtely nccci 1 states, iL lureinent : plantativ)n ] 147 ^'tedpartssotamca.stobceasifl/«^ . r -"d wuHcr the y feed chi.« ^ ' ^" '"^"^« "'" ^'-y'nl-buthes.desofnver.. and "P^^i> thetopsorihehiirh One of the pccul gfiest trees. perch lh( Jar b perpetual fohagc of tli ea unimpaired, even m the depti considerable degree of cold uties of this cou ^'tfces. ivhichcon nt M^c did 's fch "Ot pass many towns. H, i of Winter, th ry is tinucs ough a n^'^y serve for a specimen oft! a s'uall group of plank I "cral Ada of blacJ T, whose i >c rest : it 'ouses. Near it 1 rood's Burgh IS merely !^ servants, and argc convenient] >OUS( 'ves Ge- » f^tinuc n^an ot consequence; buc th 'y usual in America. I ^"'P^^gc. mark him for hot ve es' distinct! to rank tha ess ons arc n many count-, f y/as '^'^Pcct being pai^ I vvrite this from L llie middle of ith a s exin^ton, whicl ever .n before. 'Pot of cleared land 1 IS situar^ff in ^voods, like all the other 'iu'tedSia inf surrounded 3n a ^cs, which are noi near tl, <^nor towns of tl le ^^gtilar plan. w,th broad ach other. Most of th ■fdnckf eh ^'•t is the seat of govern ^'s^'a. Itisbui/t streets intcrscciimr ouses are brick. Thoucra exin^rton is tht^ r -, „ • i b " i!> inc n..-?.>. considerabi '"entofKentuck 'ince ke b i here cing the f; ^cr. two nr-iaing offi are but few ourite pursuit. \V etovvn in the manufactures, ag pro. lew 5paper ces, 'c-ory; and pnpowder milJ ^ a rope work : a t each of which ricul, e visited, how.. ann ery ; issues a ^■" the neighbourhood a nail manu. a pottery and H2 \st ) f V 118 Lest I should fatigue your attention with two many objects, I will conclude, after desiring to be remembered, in the most afTectionatc manner, to my brother and your faraily. H. FRANKLIN. LETTER XXIL Arthur Middlcton to his Brother Edahi. " "^ ' '■' riltsbiirt^li. ^ anr It a ."Oil wat ?pri banl becc 111 i\ used v-les I iickif Bull( some Whe; My dear Brother, WHEN I have nothing to communicat but the departure from one town, and arrival afl '*^^^ another, without any thing new or interesting t"^^ ^" say, I defer the task of writing as long as I ca ]est, instead of receiving my letters with pleasur you should break open the seal with reluctanc except for the sake of hearing that I am well. A. voyage on the Ohio will, I hope, afford yol^^^^"''n entertainment in the relation, as it did me ii'''^re a the b; Ohio, mal, I reality. |lar nor Alter leaving Lexington, we passed through imP^*^" s small town of Paris, agreeably situated in a pLi;!^'^'*'^'*. { of considerjihlq extent, and watered by a stfca|'^'''^d oi that turns several corn mills. Millesburgh is anJ"^''*'h thcr town, of no great size, that lay in our road ; b| yoi Hf> witb two ring to be | lanncr, to %; NKLIN. p •'■ . . * ■ ■ ommunicatd d arrival a| teresting td ng as 1 canj ith pleasure reluctance m well. , afford yoj did nic ij * through 1^1 |cd in a pli by a siica lurgh is an' >ur road ; t V" vond it the country bore a dry, sandy appearance, and the trees stunted in their growth, which Mi , Franklin attributed to the salt mines with which 11 abounds. We stopped to observe the process ol 9omc salt-works, established near some pits of salt water at Mays-Lick. There are a great many salt springs, both in this neighbourhood, and on the banks of the Ohio, which the people call lick', because the elks, bisons, and stags, which ran wild in the forests before the country was inhabited, used to come to these places to lick the salt parti- v,les from the earth. 1 he most remarkable of these licks, that arc known amongst the white seiilcrs, are Bullet's Lick, the Big Bones, the Blue Licks, and some on the nc'li foot of the nvcr Ilolston. When the earth is opened to the depth of three feet, the water begins to boil up ; and tin: rleeprr it is dug, and the drier the weather, the siio:i;^er is the brine. i NeAr some of these licks, on the banks of the Ohio, arc found the bones of a prodigious ani- mal, much larger than an elephant, called the mammoth, or big buffalo. The Indians assert, that there are still some of these creatures existing very far northward; but no animal is known to the Eu- pcan settlers, that can compare in bulk, with the tusks, grinders, and skeletons, that are either scat- tered on the surface of the ground, or a little be- neath it, at sojne of these places. This circum- ... H 3 stance t I 1 TiO ^^^^nce lias caused many enquiries, but no very satis- factory information has been obtained. A Delaware chief, who headed an embassy oi warriors, replied to the questions of the Governor of Virginia, on this subject, in the following mar. ner. After first placing himself in a proper atti- nidc to make an oration, he told him, that it wa? a tradition from their ancestors, that in ancient times, a herd of tliese tremendous animals came to the Biff-bonc Licks, and begnn a universal dcstruc- uun of the hears, deer, elks, buffaloes, and other onimals, which had been created for the use of the Indians: that the Great Man above, looking down, saw this, and was so enraged, that he seized his lightning, seated himself on a neighl curing moun- tain, on a rock, (of which his seat and the print ^^f his fe«t are still to be seen,) and hurled his bolls among then), till the whole were slaughtered, ex. cept ilie big bull, which presenting his forehead to the shafts, shook them off as tliey fell : hut, net being aware of one ot them, it wountlcd him in the side ; Uj)(>n which he gave a spring, bounded over the Oliio, the Wabash, the lllenois, and finally, over the great lakes, where he is livinir at this day. 'I his strange mixture of truth and tablej does not clear up the point, nor prove whethe any of this liuge race remain, where they inhabitJ or what kind of creatures they are. The bone are incontestiblo evidence that there once wa such a race, and that is all wc know about it. Havin, \V in 1 scri tow hun veriit uniler a most serene sky, and an intense sun rl lllenois, aiui land in a few miles fell in with a fir;n settler; that i.s, one in search o\ uncultivated hmd, where he is living atii-S Ith and iablelniay choose a spot of ground for himself, on the )ve whethci|b->rders o[ the savage tribes. This man was going inhabit,lo visit the banks of the Missouri, attracted, as he The boiuiiold us, by the multitude of bisons, beavers, and Ihcy once w aJelks. and the tertilitv of the soil. Wlien he had lOUt It. IctCiniincd the place of his choice, he was to re. Having li . 1 turn 152 turn for his family. Thus he would make a voyage ot fourteen or fifteen hundred miles, three times, before he had completed his undertaking. lie was alone, in a canoe of eighteen or twenty feet lon(]^, and twelve or fifteen iiiches wide : his dress, like tlidt of all tiic American hunters, consisted of a short waistcoat with sleeves, a pair of pantaloons, iind a broad woollen girdle, of a red and yellow colour. A carbine; a small hatchet, called hy the Indians a tomahawk, and used by them both to cut wood, and to dispatch their enemies; two beaver traps ; and a large knife hanging to his 'gudle; composed his hunting equipage. One blanket was all his baggage. Every evening he encamped on the banks of the river, or passed the niglu by a fire; and when he judged lha< there was a favourable opportunity for the chace, Uc penetrated into the woods for several days, and, from the produce of his hunting, provided him- self with food, and procured fresh supplies, by selling the skins of the animals he had killed. This wandering, unsettled life, gives these people a distaste to a fixed home : they are no sooner settled, but they dispose of their land to otiier set. tiers, who are more civilized, and then set out again to explore uninhabited regions. The shores of the Ohio are thickly scattered with plantations : the owners live in wretched Jog-houses, often built in most delightful situa- tions; but the cultivation of the laud is somc- - tim'.'d almost uninha- bited. This noble river takes in a vast circuit, winding, w itii a prodigious sweep, for near a thousand miles, before it r(\iclies the Mississippi; its breadth va- ries in different parts. The islands in it are very numerous, and the stream so rapid, that the west- country boats are made almost square, to stem the current; and having raised sides, and roofs at one end, look like iloaling houses. After so long a voyage, you must excuse an ac- count of Pittsburgh till my next, and in the mean time believe, that no variety ol place or people can ever make me (orgellul of the pleasant hours I htvve passed in your society at home. . ARTHUR MIDDLETON". um, in a ;u re above ID- |), may a^ who have] leve It. tiitsburi;li, hi"s, li^'' es a 11 in a I 111. M 6 LEIl LR 15(5 LETTER XXIII. Mr. Ilenrij Franklin to his Brother. Lancaster. Dkar Brother, PITTSBURGH is built on a triangular plain, just at the confluence of the i ivcrs Monon- fjahcla and Allegany, which, when united, form the Ohio. Agues are but little known here, though so frequent in many other parts. It is the great market for the exchange of goods, between Philadelphia and Baltimore, with the west- ern country and the numerous settlements on the Monongahela and Allegany rivers, "he greater part of the traders who reside in this town, are partners or agenis to the commercial houses at Philadelphia. The merchandize is conveyed from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, in J-iige covered wag- gons, drawn by tour horses, two and two abreast: from thence it is frequently sent in carrying boats, along the Ohio and Mississippi, to New Orleans, a distance ol more than iwi. thousand miles. Some- times the cargoes retumed by the merchants of New Orleans, go by sea to Piuladclphia. Thus a communication, to their mutual benefit, is main- tained between the distant parts of this vast and increasinj in( SCc thr anc fou WOj inci flux to t 1 the I the ; lerio ■ tcr ri gins V. empi as SOI the c< Th Pittsb I sign t land, mount farther about of a h With ( v;ood, for th( 1 I cr. ancaster. riaiigular Monon- form the | ;, though of goods, the west- Its on the le greater own, are mouses at yed from •red wag- abreast : ing boats, Orleans, R. Some- chants of Thus a is main- vast anvl ncreasiHt; increasing empire. Thirty years ago, there were scarcely thirty thousand white inhabitants in the three new western states, Tenessce, Kentucky, and that of the Ohio; now they arc estimated at four hundred thousand. Do not suppose that this wonderful augmentation arises from the natural increase of the first settlers, but a continued in- flux of new emigrants, who flock from all parts to this fertile region. The river Monongahela rises in Virginia, at the foot of Laurel Mountain, which forms part of the chain of the Allegany, and receives some in- ferior rivers before it joins the Allegany ; this lat- ter river takes its source near Lake Erie, and be- gins to be navigable two hundred miles from Pitts- burgh. The dock-yards for building ships, give employment to many hands in the town, as well as some at Redstone and Lexington, which supply the cordage. The time that I had appointed for our stay at Pittsburgh being elapsed, we set forward, with de- sign to bend our course, by way ot Northumber- land, to New York, The excessive heat over a mountainous road, prev^mted us from proceeding farther than Greensburgh the first day, a town of about a hundred houses, standing on the summit of a hill. The country near it abounds so much with coal, that it is used for luel in prclerence to v;ood, as being less expensive than cutting wood for the fire. Ligonier's Valley is a fertile tract, producing 158 producing wheat, rye, and oats, for food ; hemp and flax ior clothing. Most of the women weie at work at the spinning wheel or the loom : their families arc supplied with linen by their indus- try. Wc observed some wild plants oi great beau- ty ; p;\itieularly a species of azalea, with large white flowers, that grows to the height of twelve or hiieen feet. At the end of Ligonier's Valley wc crossed Laurel Mill, probably so called from the numeious laurels and rhododendrons that co- ver it. Some fried ham and deer's flesh, with a cake of maize bread, baked on a board before the fire, at Stanley Town, gave us fresh strength and spirits to ascend the Allegany Ridge, which is extremely sleep, and rendered stiil moie inconvenient by enormous stones, iliat are scattered about the road. We slept at Bedford. Unfortunately for us, it had been a public holiday, and the tavern was hlled with pc4>ple, in such a state of intoxication, as to lie dead drunk about the rooms, on the stairs, and in the yard. From those who were able to speak, nothing was heard but a frightful uproar of riot or abuse. Arthur remarked, that a young man did not need a more striking picture of the hateful consccjuences of excess. 1 he pe i)|.'ie in the interior of the United States arc too generally prone to the love of spirituous liquors, as a regale; for their common beverage, in summer, is water or sour ihilk. The a r j flow I in \^ • the 1 ed s towr 4 dca 1 consi assist Sh cipal Colon the di the sa A broug sevcrii groccj clue 11) other Iiy Gc At Cc hannal ver, tl woociy vera I t arc as , 1 ; hemp n wove I : iheir inJus- il l)cau- [h large ! twelve Valley cd from that co- 1 cake of : fire, at u\ spirits ixtremely inltnt by the roatl. lus, it had ivas hlled jn, *iS to Itairs, and o speak, f riot or man did hateful led States >iriluov;s |crage, in The V)0 The banks of the Jiincata, whicli wc cros«scd in a ferry-boat, are high, and adorned with trees and flowering shrubs. The countrv people gather the green cones of the cucumber rec, and steep theni in whisky, which they consider as a remedy ior the ague. Travelling over a hilly, stony country, wc observ- ed several scattered farm-houses, and some small towns, in our way to SI up[)ensDurg Lab our IS dear and hands scarce, so tiiat a larmer, instead oi considering a numerous family a burthen, finds ilic assistance of his children a source of wealth. Shippensburgh is a small place, that trades prin- ripally in Hour. We lodged at a tavern kept by a colonel ; no uncommon case in America, where the distinctions of rank are no^ yet observed with the same exactness as in Europe. A mountainous country, with few inhabitants, btought us to Carlisle, a tolet.ible town, hjv ing several stores that deal in mercery, haberdaiil.crv. iiroeer aiK 1 li louor. 4 York is a we ll-b U..I town, chicily composed of brick-houses, and, .kt- many other places in this part of the country, 'Mliabitcd by Germans, who still speak their own »c-.;guage. At Co.ambia v.e were lerried over the Susquc- hannah : very ingli hills form the banks ot tins ri- ver, the TTiidilie i-t which is covered wiih arnall, oouv islands, winch appear to flivide it into se- W( veral br'^nches. Soni. arc as high as the m . cse, flioi;- '.1 verv sma o II. )0;i; iiil:i;, and being ir- rciiuUr IGO regular in their form, have a picturesque efTecf, which is improved by multitudes of wild-fowl that nestle in the i'JtrAi and hover about the river. Early in ih* r. versing we reached Lancaster, the largest inlaiui town in North America. The houses, which have two stories, are chiefly of brick or stone, with a broad stone pavement, and pumps placed at small distances before them ; there are several well built churches, and an elegant ses- sions-house. It is computed to contain from four to five thousand inhabitants, nearly all of German extraction, but of difTerent religions and occu- pations. Hatters, saddlers, coopers, and gunsmiths, are the most numerous. The gunsmiths are celebrated for rifles, the only kind of fire-arms used by the Indians, and the peo- ple of the interior. In the town, as well as th€ neighbourhood, are a great many tan-yards, and mills for grinding corn ; the flour is sent to Phila- delphia in waggons. Lancaster is surrounded by verdant meadows, watered by a wheel, contrived to raise the water for that purpose. Near it lime- stones and slates arc found, of a large size, and the neighbouring country is full of iron mines. Having an engagement upon my hands, I can- not enlarge farther, than to assure you that I am Your aflcctionate brother, H. FRANKLIN. 1 LETTER M sc!f u attent a ride Dunk ca by t men 11 They cloth, , vvaist V this dr plain, ^ out a b is share it. W gnlariti( May Tc road we by small with a f ]()] ! effect, owl that er. tcr, the The of brick 1 pumps here are rant ses- rom four German id occu- insmiihs, the only I the peo- i\\ as th€ irds, and to Phila- nded by ontrived it lime- ize, and ines. , 1 can- iiat 1 am KLIN. LETTER XXIV. Avlhnr Middkton to his Sisicr Cuthtvinc. Sill' York. I My dear Girl, •TTER IT is so long since I have atldre'?scd inv- self to you, that Edwin cannot be jealous of this attention. Whilst we were at Lancaster, we took a ride to Ephrata, to sec the establishment of the Diinkcrs, a religious society well known in Ameri- ca by their solitary mode ot life. The men and wo- men live apart, in houses that are without ornament. They wear a long gown, made in winter of grey cloth, and in summer of white linen, tied round the waist with a strap of leather : a long beard renders this dress still more venerable. They live in a plain, frugal manner, and sleep on a bench with- out a bed. The property of the whole community is shared equally by the members who bchuig lo it. What the principles are that lead to thcs'j sin- gularities, I could not learn. From Lancaster to May Town is a woody tract of country. Along the road we saw many German iarms, which are known by small houses and large barns. Cows and oxen, with a few sheep, were grazing in the woods, or near 1G5 near the road ; and the woods cliicfly consist t>F oak, liiccory, black oak, acacia, chcsnut, cherry, and apple trees, a few spindle trees, some cedars and Weymouth pines. May Town is only a small village. Harri^burgh is another town of no great magnitude. Several ranges of hills, or high ridges, run parallel to each other, in the way from this place to Sunbury, and arc in most parts covered with trees. Azalia. blossom in almost every wood, and delight both the eye and the smell. We passed many siragglin^^ log.lionses, and new settlements, where the owner had felled some of the trees, and barked others ior several inches in breadth, in order to make them decay. The inountains over which the road runs from Harrisburgh toSunbui\', areall of granite ; and in Bonjc places it is very fine and beautiful. At length we perceived the little town of Sunhurv, standing on tlie bank of the Susquehannah, whi h, wherever we meet it, is a grand objc'ct. Tl!.' opposite shore is bounded by high mountains, tldikencd hy numerous pines growing on the rocks. Sunbury is {he chief town of the country ; but Nortiujmberland is larger and more agreeably si- tuated, though It is ill built, and inhabited chiefj/ by Dutchmen. Hither the celebrated Dr. Priest- icy retired, and ended his days in tranquillity. In one ot our walks on the borders of the river we were surprised at hearing the melodious souiuis of of a a sn- high of re meln ants, were appea fined I seek c' .' fowar the ch stands stream sists of church Tow, house \ public M^-'ck w nished } ing hot sions : I order, b honest a ^•istened there, ju The A H'ill acki ^rs of t nsist of cherry, : cedars rl^burglj Several I to each urv, and ght both iiraggHng he owner t)ihers tor ^ akc them runs from c ; aiul in tiful. At Sut\burv, h, whi h, ct. Th^ ouniaiiii, ithe rocks. 163 of a piano forte, exquisitely touclied, proceed from a small wooden house, bnilt against the side of a high mountain, covered with wood and fragmcntv'!ve3. On il e creek ninJ that IGCi nor I tuin ; totl I VVitI] I that skirts the town is a flour mill, a saw mill, an oil mill, a lulling mill, a mill foi grmdin^r bark and d)'cing-(lrugs, a tan-yard, a currier's yard, and on the Lehigh River 's a large brewery. The ta- vern affords excellent accommodations ; and for neatness and good management, excels most we have seen in America. The United Brethren, as thcv call themselves, trace their first rise as tar back as 1424, and relate that they underwent such grievous suflerings in Europe, as almost destroyed their society; till Count Zinzindorf gave a new turn to their affairs by his patronage ; and under his protection many of them emigratcil from Germany, and settled m this place. It should be added, to their honour, thai their missionaries are indefatigable in convert- ing the Indians to Christianity. There are seve- ral other establishments in different parts of Ame- f pretty rica; one at Salem, in North Carolina; another near Li^ncaster; one at Mount Hope, in Jersey; and another at Nazareth ; whither wc went in our road to Easton, which is a large town, situated \vhere the rivers Lehigh and Delaware join. A considerable trade is carried on there, in corn, with U^'iiefly Philadelpina ; and there are many mills in the H^' i'^iu nei^^libourhood, which oiten grind corn for the people in New Jeiscy, wlio, in some parts, are not supplied with creeks tor turning mills. At Easton we crossed the Delaware, over a wotden bridge, and entered the state of New Jersey. Along the northern cove well pare( other Ini r< iercn centu nncul rived i luxur- ' 'ihc , New I ivarito I'i he Ci ther f«) a grea/ ' 'Un .; |ine Pu. |gether, I'nver Ih 11 11 I 1G7 northern part of it lies tlie Blue Ridge of Moun- tains. A road iull oi hills and rocks, brouglit us \ and ■- ^^ ^'^*^ straggling village ol liackctstown : near it ia a mineral spring, much frequented in sumni'jr. an bark The la- I an df or 111 wiin no bcttei )ddt r accommondtions than an old ca.^k most \vc i mse n d re rings in etv; till [Tairs covered with a bunch ot willows, to slieitei the well where the company batlic. W'lion i com- pared this with the bath-house at Bu\ton, and late ^ other medicinal springs in England, Mr, Frank- lin reminded me that there was an essential dif- Ives, fcrence bet ween a country colon ized but a few :ir a ion many ictilcd in centuries, contending with savage nations and uncultivated deserts; and one civilized, and ar- rived at the utmuat refinement of wealth and r Ikonour, convert- are seve- of Ame- uxurv. The towns are thickly set from Morristown (o iew York : neat painted houses compose this . a » pretty village, which stands on a branch ol the lother ji^«i''iton, and is the chirf town oi Morris County. rriie court oi justice, the Presbyterian church, ano- Jersey ; Mt in our tlicr lor the Anabaptists.^a handsome academy, and siiuaic [ a great s<]uarc pldfineu out in tlic centre, g.vc th this J oin. A (jwn an J ir ol tonsenuence. The iidiabiiants are o in, wit 1^ i-ciiicflv eniploycd in rearing cattle tor ilic markets the K^' Philadelphia and New Yoik, r ^],g 1 \Vc passed a flat marshy country to the Palls of Is in Is, are not A Ea^t-^n In itlie Pjaaik, over a road made of lojs laid close (o- igether, and kept drv by a ditch on eacii side. 1 lie hr'diie, l'^''^"^''' Hows with a gentle current, till it readies the . r^rr i)c I'-' nk ot the descent, where it is about thiity feet Jong I'"- ■ northein • ^^•i<'^* wide, and then tumbles in one vast sheet over a ledge oi rocks eighty feet high, into a deep chasm beneath, formed by immense ctags, that rise above tlie top of the cataract, and appear to have been torn asunder by some violent convulsion oi na- ture. Every tiling belonging to this majestic cas- cade bears an air ot sublimity, and impresses the mind with an inexpressible awe. Near these Falls is a rich copper mine, originally discovered by a person who was passing by veiv early in the morning, and observed a blue flann issuing from the ground : struck with the singu- larity oT the phenomenon, he marked the spot, and on cxaminati-n, tlsc e;)rth was lound to contain a valuable vein ol copper. lindepci Peaches are as conmion as apples in England, liis ind but llicy are not very high flavoured. The Ame- Adic ricans have a metliod ol diying both peaches ami a box f apples, in slices, for puddings and pies; but thev are acid and tasteless. Several species of the red fruit grow here 1:1 plenty, thou^^h unknown in Europe; and ilie lret« \ are full ol little birds, in size, shape, and colour \ resembling a blackbiid, but their head is of tlu* most briLuiit plumage, and they arc remarkablv tame. On our approach to the North R:ver, a nob'e view ol tiie city of New Yo.k, on tlit} opposite shore, with the haibour and shipping, btlist upon our k a:,, ^ ^m^ 169 over a > chasm c above re been \ ot na- stic cas- csscs the (riginally r by very Ivie flarrn' [\e singu- spot, ami contain a Rnglatul, riie Ame- aches ami but they IV here in |l (he tret* \i\A colour is ot thf markablv our sight. The pleasing variety of the high hanKs of the river, riclily wooilcd with trees ahnost dip- ping into ihc water ; and numbers ot vessels mov- ing in all directions ; complete the beauty of the animated picture. We have now fixed our abode in that city, in ready-furnished lodgings, for a few weeks, and hdvc dispatched the faithful Sancho to fetch his wife from Charlestown, in a vessel that was bound to that port ; hoping to be able to settle Jinn in the island of Nantucket, as a cooper, an employment lie has been used to when a slave. I know your feeling heart will partake my plea- sure, in seeing him a free man, and enjoying an independent right to whaicver he may acquire by his industry. Adieu, my Catharine. Tell Louisa I shall have a box full of curjosiiies for her, when 1 return. Your's, Sec. ARTHUJl MIDDLETON. r. a nob'e! o PP Dsi'i: liW^l uponl our i.Erii.R 170 LETTER XXV. Mr. II. FrunMhi to EcLcin Middlcton. Boston, My dear EjnviN, THE pleasure you express on reading tlie events of our journey, cnc -iiients; j).u neuiai ly t;i ' uo'^pital aiul dispensary, cts ihcmri'hc prison is a modem biiihling, a.l.ipted to the lurpag iheBi'Cuntv and licditn C'i its uniortunate inmiites. lily oi rc-tt'iic same humane code ot laws, with some small )ld sueetSjIiilkrcnces, is adopted iieie, as at riiilaJelphia. No ')' I crime Our 17*i crime 1«? punished with dcaili, but rofibing a cliurcli and malicious niiirdcr. * Tlic slaves flic treated with i^icat miMriess ; but Gtill ll^cy arc slaves, and then masters liavc not fiufhcicnt generosity to give il.rn thiir liberty. A jiieat deal o\ trade is carried on by the merch.ints ol this city. It ha; a m jst flourishing port, and communicates bv the river and canals with distant parts oi tlic courUiy; particuhuly wnh Massachii. j,cts, and that pan ot V'ermont which lies in the same tract. Till within a lew years it was the seat o\ the legislature ol the stale, but it is now remnvid to Albany. 'Ib.e colony of New Wnk was origi- ually lounded by the Dutch. Ileiny Hudson, in a vessel belonging to that nation, first discovcrcil JLong Island, and gave his name to the Great Northern River. The English asserted a previous possession, anti thcTvi was a long contest between tliem .md the Dutch ; but in the reign of Charles the Second, the former drove out their antagonists, and changer! the name ot the province frt)m New Holland to that of New York, in compliment to the king\ brother, then Duke ol York, and alterwaids Jamo- the Second. i ir At th.c solicitation of two or three of our friend: we formed an exclusion to Long Island, which i very narrow strip of land, extending to the east lengthwise, one iiundred and forty miles; thong it does not exceed ten in breadth, at a mediiim Th III. clia ncn 5|)e( \cv is en 'ihe from I',; lie did n ti( a c hurcli CSS but 1: have not KTiy. A V M»rt, auf 173 1 lie country on lln? western si li', borHcring on tl'.c lunncl ih.»i separates the islands Irotn the conti- nent, is roinatuically vaiied wuli chaiinin^ pro- spects ol the (h'.iani hilis on Sialen Island, and ihc New Jersey shore, risinnr beyond tlie water, which i>cnlivened \\'i\\\ vcNsels o i" djH creni sizes and toinis ith disi.nU slassacl)n. les in the as the scat V renii>v«.'f was orii;!' I 'ihc inhat)iianis ol thi^ island are mostly dciCendi d from 'Ik* Dutch, and aie many (d thetn tai rners. \\'e iMtil the hi»si*Maht\ id sevi-ral, whin hunger ^ ■, ta- t»,Tiie n»ude Uo wi>h l.)r rest and lelieshinent ; n.it we did not iind ihe ait (>\ Si>iienin«i liiem to eunjpla tcMicv : ih< ccivcd lis coldl\', and seemed ^^Lid wl.enu^. p» .(poied to depart. rowdiil>> the north lui son, ^.jj^ ^ij^. ^^j ^i^^ i,laiul we sav/ orchards ol delicious discovered the Great •ssion, ana d the d, tiic nd chant^er in an iccon tiiiil : tiiv: !i-»voiM oi the Newtown pippins e\cclL"d any I evu ia-»;e»l. As we rode through the wood^, we observctl inniicnsc numbers o( grouse and deer tnjojiiig the shelter ot" the thickets ; and both aic so common at table, that thcv are not considered a* |(l.ini;ios. W'e viiitcvl several towns with Duieh names: at one, lalled Utreclil, tiierc wms a lair. Holland to 1^1 icre we saw a i >«'io, wno came Irouj \ iiiiitua \' the ^^I'^ftMlIeu-ashoinol 'ail mr Is J amf friend which i* ne^;u) parents, (ol course both black,) and he conuinied ol tlie same colour till he was lor- :v, vvlien he became gradually ol a paler hue, till ;i."> s to the cast! ^ k:n wastliangeil to the complexion ol an Lu- rojXMii with red liair. lie has, however, still some ruu es a nici thong 1 ill in n spots remaining, though iliey are daily grow- ing snulier and smaller. li.a hair is as much altered J as IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I - 6" !ff IIM IIIIIM 1^ IIM 1 2.2 i ■- IIIIIM UUi- ill 1.8 IIIIL25 i u 111 1.6 Pm y w <^^ /\ /A %>v-^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEt: MAIN STRBET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 w- J7t as his skin ; for straight smooth locks have sue- ceeJed to the short cuily wool that formerly co- vered his head. As it does not affect his health, it is a happy metamorphosis for him ; for he gains a comfortable subsistence by showing himself to the curious. Having exhausted our curiosity at New York, we proceeded through Counccticut and Rhode Island to Boston, the capital of Massachusets Bay, A mure minute account of the places we passed in our way hither shall conclude this letter. On first leaving the city, T observed many hand- some country villas, belonging to rich merchant-, who precipitately rriire from the peslilcntia! infec- tion, on the earliest rum.our of the yellow fever. The rugged rocks of Jersey have a striking effect, from the opposite shore of an arm of the North River, which separates the island of New York from the main land. The prospect from Stamford is varied with verdant meadows, and woods chiefly com- posed of pines, spruce firs, and birch trees. The faimers in this part of the coast prefer rear- ing of cattle to the cultivation of corn, because the climate is subject to blasts that destroy the crop. Between Stamford and Fairfield we passed a few pretty villages, though tlie country is thinly inha- 'bited, and intersected with rugged rocks. The pleasant flourishing town of Newhaven lies round the head of a bay, about four miles north of tlic sound, and covers part of a spacious flain^ bounded oil li MS, for t York iheir to thi we tr. ^ 'J•'^ci rr \ I'le sai I an eqi ble cif fort, I throng fields, yond M where i ave suc- icrly co- hcaUh, it le gains a elf to the cw York, id Rhode asets Bay. passed in lanv hand- ncr chant;, nial ini^c fever. The iFTcct, from rih River, k from the d is varied icflv com- ces. refer rear- \ ecause the the crop. ssed a few |hinly :ks. inha- The lies round rth of the boun ded on 1 / J en three sides by mountains. The state-house, tlie church, and the college, are the principdl public edihccs; the latter possesses a library of several thousand volumes, and a inuseum ol natural cu- riosities. The houses are chiefly wood ; but many of tlie streets, and the square, are planted with trees, wliich gives thctn a regular appearance. F'.fty ships belong to the port ; and a bri«;k trade in wojd, oxen, horses, and mules, to the West Indies, and produce of different kinds to New York, em- ploys the industrious inhabitants. Beyond Newhavcn wc crossed a morass, often overflowed bv the tide, succeeded bv a road bound- cil on one side by tiie river, and on the ether by iiilis, till we came to Middleton, the great market for the farmers from the northern parts of New York, Massachusets, and Vermont, to dispose of iheir horses, mules, and black cattle, forexportation to the West Indies, Receding from the Sound, we travelled along a country adorned with woods and meadows, and enlivened by numerous herds of rattle, to Hertford, the chief town of the county of ihc same name. The inhabitants seem much on dii equality, and the houses adapted to their hum- ble circumstances : they arc lacge enough for com- fort, but too small for ostentation. We rode through woods of oak and hiccory, varied bv open fields, bordered with fruit trees, to Lebanon, be- yond which the country became hilly to Norwich, where two rivers unite ; one of them is called the I \ Thdincs. 176 J'hames. Here our attention was turned to tin ingenious arts practised by the people of Norwicli. Mills of all sorts are built near the town: and manufactures of paper, stockings, clocks, buttvons, earthen-ware, oil, chocolate, and iron forges, where the operation: vary from the drawing of wire to the casting oJ bells and anchors, employ the inhabitants. Within a mile after leaving this busy scene, a romantic cataract presented itself, by the waters of the Qainaburg rushing over some high rocks. At New London we were diverted by the occu- pations of a commercial sea port, hiving the best harbour in Connecticut. Cattle, salted provisions, batter, and cheese, are exported from thence to the West Indies, and the other states; and wood, lin- seed, pearl-ash, and sumac, to England. The su- mac is prepared for the dyers, from the invention of a merchant of this port, who has received a pa- tent for his discovery. Leaving the confines of Connecticut, we entered the territory of Rhode Island, and proceeded over wretched roads, where the miserable habitations marked the poverty of the owners, to Providence, the most flourishing town in the state. It is built on both sides of a river of the same name; the two divisions being united by a handsome bridge. There are many lofty, substantial, and well-finished houses in this town ; and the prosperous manufac- tures, and foreign commerce, are likely to augment the th lai s\\ \y wa vci \v a d on to J mar dro ^ statd 1 and ' of til i and ■ Pi T! or tw I ol a I :d b y ] work and o ill pei i to Bo IcncTtl o cludii >.- J 7 cd to tlu- Xorwic'.i. \vn: and , buttons, res, where g of wire mploy the 5 this busy elf, by the some high ^ the occu- I )g the best | provisions, 1 lence to the wood, lin- The su- ; invention eived a pa- . we entered ) eeded over habitations 'rovidence, It is built \c; the two I le bridge. slUfinishcd IS raanufac to augment I the sources of its wealth. There is one of tlie largest distilleries in the United States, besides exten- sive nail rnanutaelurcs, and other forged iron work. We were introduced to the elegant college, which was founded, principally, by the Baptists, and still very much engrossed by that community. Roger Williams, a mau of a very amiable character, and a divine, was banished, in 1636, from Plymouth, on account of his particular opinions. He retired to Salem, where his gentle manners gained him many iriends; but the same spirit ol persecution drove him from thence to seek a new asylum amongst the Indians, in the northern part of the slate, whither he was followed by a few adherents, and by their mutual assistance, and the kind ofllces oi the Indians, he laid the foundations of the town, and gave it the name of Provirlence. Plymouth, the next town ot importance, is en- gaged in the fishery, besides forges and iron wuiks. Tlie college at Hingham detained us for an hour or two, as I rather wished to see it. It is composed Ol a number of small schools united, and is attend- ed by nearly four hundred scholars. We were much pleased by the neat coopers* work that employs the townsmen. Tubs, pails, and other wooden ware, are to be purchased iiere in perfection. From this place wc went by water to Boston, the capital of Massachusets Bay. 'I'he length of my letter is a suflicient apology for con- cluding myself your affectionate friend. I H. FilAXKLIN. 178 LETTER XXVI. Arthur Muldktun to Eduin. Boston. My dear Brother, BEFORE I describe the town oF Boston, iftiere are some tilings that occurred in our journey between New York and this place worth your at- tention. One of our fellow-passengers in the stage wag- gon, was a manufacturer of pearl and pot ash, who, with his wife, a pretty, modcst>looking young woman, was going to visit some relations in Con- necticut. Mr. Franklin, who never loses an opportunity of adding to his knowledge, by collecting inform- ation from people of all classes and professions, turned the conversation upon the quantity of these ashes exported from America; and hinted, that as I was ignorant of the arts used to bring them to per- fection, he would be obliged to him to enter a little into tlie detail of the processes necessary for that purpose. The manufacturer was pleased with this atten- tion, and very readily gave me the following ac- count. ♦* The vast woods that cover the uncleared part of our country," said he, •* iurnish us with immense quantities of timber, some of which we burn, :v 179 I )f Boston, ir journey h your at- stage wag- i pot asb, ^ing young ins in Con- pportunity ng inform- rofessions, ity of these d, that as I i em to per- nter a little , . ry for that this atten |lowing ac- unclearecl Ish us with which Nve bum, ' burn, and arterwards collect the ashes for this purpose. «' Our first care is to purify the ashes from eve- ry other substance that may be mixed with thcni, by washing them in tubs with double bottoms. The ley thus procured is boiicd in large iron caul- drons, till all the watery particles have evaporated, and it is become ot a proper substance. The ashes of green wood, and esnecially of oak, arc most es- teemed; and no pot-ash can be procured from re- sinous trees, such as the pine or the fir. '* When our pot-ash is completely finished, it requires the greatest care to pack it in barrels of white oak, made so close, that neither damp nor air can enter, or the ashes would dissolve, and the cask be hall empty, before it reached the destined poit." I thanked him for the information, and de- sired to know what are the ingredients of pearl-ash. *• It is only pot-ash," replied he, " refined by fire to a still greater degree of purity. 1 he operation is performed in a drying kiln, heated by a fire be- neath it." •' Both pot and pearl ash," remarked Mr. Franklin, " are of great use to manufacturers in other branches of trade: the glass- maker, the bleacher, the fuller, tlie soap-m.aker, the scourer, the dyer, and the apothecary, would be at a loss to complete their different works without vciTeta- ble ashes, properly prepared, to promote t!ie ef- fects of other ingredients." On the other side sat a rough, honcst-looking sailor, who began to think I 6 it 180 it was high time for him to take part in tlie con- versalion. He tuld us that he had risen from a cabin boy to be captain of a vessel in the whale- fishery, and that he had been as far in the South Sea, as the Cape of Good Hope; and to the North, to Hudson's Bay, in search of fish. He added, that in all his voyages, lie had lost but two men from accidents, and that he was beloved by those he employed; that he paid them liberally in blubber, instead of money; and, with a con- scious smile, he finished his narrative by say- ing, that the trade was profitable, and that he had made a fortune. The master of the inn at Newhaven, finding we were Englishmen, showed us the rocks where Golf and Wadley, two of the judges who con- demned Charles the First to death, hid themselves horn the soldiers, who were sent by his son, Charles the Second, to search for them. They lay snug under a bridge some days, whilst their pursuers passed and repassed it without finding them. In order to give you a clear notion of our jour- ney from New York to Boston, I must tell you we passed through the provinces of Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusets. The first set- tlers in Connecticut were driven from England to avoid persecution, on account of dissenting from the opinions of f.he church; but they were not sufficiently instructc.d by their own sufferings, to leave otl>ers at liberty. In their turn, they per- secuted J'- 181 secLitcd those who difFcred from them, and drove tliein to seek refuge in new setiicmcnts. The first Kticlishnien who established themselves in Con- necticut were bigoted, enihiisiastic people, ot the Presbyterian persuasion, and cruelly oppressed their brethren of diflcrent sects, esj)ecially the Quakers ; many of wliom tlicv tortured and ba- nished, and even put some of ihcrn to death. 1 heir descendants are very strict, on far better grounds tlian dififercnce of opinion; for they punish gam- ing of all kinds, even horseracing; and in order to preserve decorum on Sundays, impose a fine on those who travel on that day. With such an at- tention to morality, it is strange that they can still allow the hf»rrid slave-lrade. The inhabitants of this province are very active and liberal in the establishment of public institutions for the edu- cation of children. Schools are so general, and lay snug % the people so well instructed, that almost all caa r pursuers at least read, write, and cypher, eni. B In Rhode Island, on the contrary, they are very illiterate, and have few schools. /• large propor- tion ot liie inhabitants are Baptists and Ouakers, but :ill kinds of Christians are allowed to worship in their own way, unmolested. The destrict of Rhode Island is an intermixture of meadows and fields of maize ; barley and flax are also cultivated in great quantities, but the principal object of the faimers is grazing, and their cheese is celebrated, ley per- | throughout gccute( le con* from a whale- c South c North, E added, wo men )ved by liberally 1 a con- by say- that be 1, finding cks where ^^'ho con- hemselves n, Charles tectici r ! , ' 182 throughout America, General Green was a na- tive of ibis province, and the people boast of the honour of being bis countrymen. lie was a dis- tinguished general in the American revolution, and ihougii be fought against the English, it ap- pears that bis bravery and military skill endeared him to bis soldiers ; and that bis bumanitv to the vanquished, and moderation in prosperity, have established bis character as a person of great merit. We are now at Boston, which is the capital of New England, as well as of Massacbusets Bay. It stands upon a peninsula, united to the continent by a narrow isthmus. The view over the capaci- ous harbour, containin^^ many islands, is very fine, but the entrance of the bay is so narrow, that not more than two large ships can enter in at the same time, though it is capable of containing a nume- rous fleet. Some of these Islands arc guarded by soldiers, to prevent the approach of an enemy; and the con- victs of the state are sent to one of tbem, named Castle Island, and employed in making shoes and nails. Boston is united to the flourishing village of Charlestown, by a fine bridge, built over Charles's River. The town spreads, in the form of a crescent, round the harbour. Boston is not very large, nor arc the streets regular; but nevertheless, it is pleasant, and tlie people are so kind and soci- able, I i I i ai ar C( ini W lif( , the i leer rv * rica T So Lit of t: lar."^; WCit' ' ter tl; whic^ porte( Mi ny ev acfjua moditj Thi. ^or :ne ricj, I igc of 1 i 1^3 ablf, that I 'should like to live here better than in any large town I liave been in on the AnieritdH continent. On the spot wh.ere the fort stood is a simple inonumcn t. erected to tlie niemor o f G enera 1 Warren ; a revolutionary general, who lost his life in it>» defence. Boston trades to all parts of the globe, of course 9 a na- it of the as a dis- solution, ,h, it ap- cndcarcd iiv to the iiy, have of g^C'^^ ^^^ harbour is a busy, lively scene, which I often enjoy from the noble pier, which is two thousand capital of ts Bay. It continent he capaci- s very ^^^^\ A', that not t the same a numc- ,y soldiers, ' hd the con- i feet I ong. Some of the ships belonging to this port car- ry on a trade between the western coast of Ame- rica an d C aiiton in Ch ina. These vessels make a very long voyage round Soutli America, lor the sake ol purchasing the skins of the sea otter, which is the most valuable of furs; and having obtained a cari^o, sail to the westward, till they rcacli Canton, where they bar- ter them with the Chinese for their manufactures, which arc either used by the Americans, or cx- ■m, named i ported to Europe. shoes and I Mr. Franklin says, that though luxury has ma- king vllhige i ny evils, it is the iDcans of bringing distant nations Ibuilt over I acquainted with each other, by the desire for com- be form oil modiiics that arc not produced at home, lis not very I This enterprising life would be just the thing tvertbcles?, I for me, and when I have made the tour of Ame- td and soci-lrica, I hope my mother will let me go on a voy- able,|agc of discovery. 1 wisl 1ft4 ! v\'isli our tastes were more alike, that wc ini^lit travel together; for nuihin^; but your company is waiuiii>; to complete the CMJv)yiiient ol your Aireciionate br()ther, MiniUR MIDDLETON. ] LETTER XXVII. JrLhur MiiUldon to his Uvolhcr Edntn, Aorih slilf of the Kcmubcck River. Dear Edwin, BEHOLD us now set of] on horsebacl; for the province ol Maine, which lits towards il.e iiorili-east. At a place called L\ iin, siaiuiing on a small haven, we got a good breakfast, and ob- s^'rvcd that the people are chiefly employed in making shoes. We were tolJ that four hundred thousand pair are sent every year to Boston, New York, and Philadelphia: and fronii these ports ma- ny of them are exported to Europe. We advanc- ed no farther that day than Salem, the capital ol the county of Essex, a large, populous place, handsomely built, with neat houses of a moderate size, suited to the inhabitants, who are chiefly en- gaged in foreign commerce, though there is a n^^-.^j nufacture of saiKcloth. The senate-house is a spa-l , ,- 1 cious. Ci k h tei CO tli( n\c J 6c of^ wit( \cm I fj(h( grac We blehc tuate i y^ wret( ] coul( they I '■'■•plie I men, ': fisliini : thetii a brid such almost now } I horseback ovvarcis ibe I'.ding on ^ t, aiul ob- 1 ployed m ur huncir^"^ ; iston, New e ports ir.a- ,Vc aiivaiiC' le capviiil ol lous place, moderate chic-ny en. lerc is a n^a- |u kpa- se IS a sf clou? 185 cious, tlcgant structure, but the harbour Is so shal- low and inconvcuieiU, that a large vessel, heavy laden, cannot approach tlieir quays ; yet the en- terprising spirit of the people has so well over- come this obstacle, that they trade to all parts of the rlobc. I'he ancestors of these industrious merchants were ignorant and superstitious, for in 169'-;, thev persecuted, in a cruel manner, a number of unhappy wretches, for tlie imaginary crime of witchcraft. How absurd ! For the honour of Sa- lem, however, its townsmen were not alone in thij ridiculous notion; the same miserable delusion dis- graced New Knglan l> 188 at the varicms operations of the ship builders, anJ examinitig mills ot different kinds. We passed tlirough Brunswick and Wiscasect, two towns of which I liavc nothing to say, beiore we reached the Kennebeck, wliich is one of the principal rivers of the province of Maine : its source is distant from its mouth two hundred miles, and it waters the finest woodlands in this region. I'he forests and the sea are the grand sources of riches to this (iistrict. Most ot th^; people are either wood-cutters, fishers, or lime- burners. The dealers in wood retire with their families, about November, into the recesses of the foresis; havirig taken care, in the summer, to provide bay for tlieir cattle, and a hut for themselves, on a particular spot marked for their winter residence. Thus dismally secluded from the comforts nf a neighbourhood, they remain till April or May, unless very severe weather com^ pels tiiem to return sooner. Having felled their timber, they bring it on sledges to the brink of the river, where it remains till the rains swell the wa- tcrs sufficiently to float it down the stream. Each wood-owner knows his own trees by a particula: mark. When they reach liie mouth of the river? th i cor our pat] wh( a ni I - d-«ric,, especially efr k'T v''^""'""^ f -lo 'he red oak, L whL T ^"^ ^^^'"^'h ,- ucceed each|'«-,,: lie ton. Penobscot. 'g'<^ns su'a parts oi thi e repetition ome. r, througli a :en amidst a :; inhabitantsji prod scs they livc|roach of assess. \\ c night, whciciile of sugar, meaiinhur unprudentl made of ryeling pressed sman VN'ouldl-cd. gs. A sucj Either Vel woods; the f, '"'lis to the ormcr cmi. Winter. Q southward :rate "nierous. \V, ,,,,|^ ears and vvoi on th( 3 viliag(, . |, "let a large b ves are rath ap. cr e crossed tl le y pursued 1 With h iim. un ear wi'th road fear] Tiic b in SL ess I7. gcr, ran awd ear not y with great ;r the coa^t. [reeable, am enliveJiec ;Uutl '^ on is at a f ow ebb Fted 1 ^ ^'^'Vdi.ced. asIcou;d > or civilizat ion 18 ur I'ub. 'C \^or uii P ihj ea'of no build oug'iout th( injT (5 pro- viace. 192 i rince. These people enjoy a hcaliby climate, and frequently attain a great age, though medical n:efi are very scarce amongst them. We are now stationed in the only place that de- serves the name of a town. It is called Penobscot, and contains about a thousand houses. We were rather surprised yesterday to recon- noitre our old acquaintance, the sea captain, who travelled with us in the stage waggon between Ne\f York and Boston. The pleasure of meeting seemed mutual ; and as he was just arrived from Nan- : tucket, we were the more earnest to engage him to dine with us, that we might hear news of our faith- ful Sancho. He told us that our friend, (for his fidelity and gratitude entitle him to that appellation,) was likclyl to do very well, having already found continual employment in his trade of a cooper ; and as he ex- ceeded in neatness of workmanship, punctuality,! and industry, there was no fear but he would gain a competency, which was all that could be desircdi ''<^h fu in Nantucket, where the inhabitants are remarkable|f''e pi for the simplicity of their behaviour and the mo-l^'*'" re deration of their desires. The wealthiest amongst! '^^^"w them make no display of their riches, luxury beingl'^'"^ h\ unknown in the island: no coaches, no finery, orlr'"t.iirJ grand houses, but every one enjoys his gains in thJ-"'^' c. comforts of life, and sharing them with his neighJ^ '' ' Jie hours. ^^'>uiin^ He described the island as a barren, sandy spott'^'^un thaf JIJJ th.it appears to be the summit ot a huge mountain, \v'hicli extencU under tlic water. It is covered here and there with sorrel, grass, a few cedar- hushes, and scrubhy oaks. The swamps yiehl peat, which is valuahle for firing; and the ponds and lakes are covered with wiUl Jowl and bhick. ducks. The shores abound with the soft-shelled, the hard-shelled, and the great sea-clams, a most nutritious shell-fifh. Fishing is the principal di- version of these islanders, and contributes materi- al!)' to their support. The most common fish arc the streaked bass, the blue fish, the torn-cod, the mackarel, tiic tcwtag, the herring, the flounder, and the eel. The sea supplies their riches and employments. Few of the inhabitants devote themselves to the cultivation of the ground, though many of them possess pastures tor sheep, and a cow or two, which their wives take charge of, whilst they are gone on fishing expeditions in distant la- titudes. This general description of Nantucket did 1 ".o J not fully satisfy Arthur, who was impatient to hear be desiiCQB ^ ^ ^ . , ^ , t ijtlie particulars of Sancho's situation. The cap- , 1 ^nl'^^i" replied to his enquiries on thii subject in the ind ll^e "^°*" ^ • lest amongs ate, snd ca\ n:eu that dc- inobsccjt, Lo recon- :ain, w^^o A^eenNcNf ng seemed rom Nan- age him to [ our faitb- [Idclity and )wasUl^cly 1 continual nd as be ex- unctuality, would gain ^-tollowing words: •' I'lie little money with which uxury being hour bounty favoured Sancho, has enabled him to lo finery, oi|< gains pKjcurc a h.ousc convenicntlv situated near the sea^ .vJsiiore. It is a tlca^, conifon.j'jle habitcition, painted ^" *. -^iJf''^ 'he o'ltside \\\i\\ ochre, [jiouyb.t from a neitih- sandy spot tV.i homing island, i ailed Martha's Vineyard, where a I'iomontorv, known bv the name of Gay-Head. K * yields t'^. 'i^^^. IIM ) icKli a variety of eartlis, of t1i[T< rent colour--. His gratitude to you is extreme; he .nti ibnie-; ail liis !essnirr> to your ^'erurosit H IS wiie IS ic- markablc tor lier iiulu>try and attac!itiieiu to her Lusbaud ; and is esteemed for licr "ood jiature bv all her neighbours, H-hich ^»aiii, him a great deal ot custom : and as their trui^aliiy and gooil manage- nieiit are equal to their .vv^iduiiy, Saruho cxpeers to save money, and proposes, when ,jl)le, to j)iir- chase a share in a whale trader, and go in (jucst ot wed that profitable fi.-dj ; a profession that is iollo by the principal men on the island." This led to the subject of the whale fi.>,hc»y, cay- ricd on by these hardy mariners; and the aceount is so interesting, that I transmit the substance of it for your entertainment. The vessels used for this purpose are not large, and are always manned with thirteen hands, that; they may row two whale-boats, the crews of which must consist of six ; four at the oars, one at the| bows with the harpoon, and th.e other at the iicin; It is indispensable ihat there should be two of thesel boats, that if one should be overset in attackin the whale, the other should be ready to save th.e| hands. Five of the thirteen are always Indians; and the thirteenth man remains !on hoard, to st eci the vessel during the action. None but young uk are fit for this employment, which requires grcatl vigour and agility. As soon as they arrive in tliose latitudes when whuk'i mom la urn St rue lier te ^io( will a of her pc^ars, gcrons •; ail liis c is ic- : to htr auire by a deal ot inanaju!- ) cxpccu , to pur- 1 (jllCSl ot iol lowed .hciy, car- lie account stance ot it h not large, antls, iluu| s ot \\'hicb| one at ilii-'l it ilie ucIiTm w^o oi ilH'sel n attacking to save tl.t ys Indians; •d, to St \v 19:. hales are to be fuuiul, a man Is sent un to tl: m ast-hcad. It l;c sees one, he calr out, A vvaitc, Pawana," whicb signifies, *' Mere is a whale." The boats are immediately launched, filled with every* impicn'.cnt neces.sary for tlic attack. They row towards the wkb.ale witli astonishiii'i velocity. iien they have reached prop er distance, one o tiicm rests on itc oars, and stands o f IT to witncs;. tlic ipp roacning entiasemeiit a o The 1 laiDooncr. in the other, in a jacket closely buttoned, and a handker- chict bound tight round his head, stands on the bow, with the dreadful weapon in hi, hand, to the shaft of which is firmly tied the end ol a coni, tliat IS CO! led ui m the mid lie ot" the boat, with ih uih(^v end fastened to th.e bettom. When the harpooner judges that they arc near enough to the whale, he orciers them to stop. If t'lC whale has a calf, wliose safety attracts the at- tention of the darn, it is considered to he a favour- able circumstance : it she happens to be asleep, he balances 'm^h the harpoon, tiying in this ciiiical moment to collect all the energy he can exert. He launches forth the instrument of death. She is struck, from her first movement, they judge ot icr lem per, as well as of their succe :>5, c.| JH".| rcJ Son\eiimcs, in the sudden impulse of rd'^e, she young nu".'! ^yjii attack the boat, and demolish it with one stroke quires grc^| (^j- j^^j. ^^ij^ j^, g,-, instant the frail vehicle disap- pears, and the assailatus arc plunged in the dan- gerous clement. W'eie the wh.alc armed with tlie Ludcs w hcv( w hale # J au's ^r 196 jaws of the shark, and as voracious, ihcy never would return home to arnusc llicir listening wives with the interesting talc oF tlieir adventures. Some- times, on the first stroke, slie will dive, and disap- pear from human sight, and every thing nnist then give way to her velocity, or all ij^ lost. At other times, she will swim away as if untouched, and draw the cord with such swiftness, that it will set the edge of the boat on fire by the friction, li she rises before she has run out the whole length, she is looked upon as a sure prey. The blood she lias lost in her {light weakens her so much, that, if she sinks ai^ain, it is but for a sliort time ; tlie boat iol- lows her course with an almost equal speed. She soon rea ppea rs, tired with her exertions, and hav- ing tinged the water with her blood, dies, and floats upon the surtace. Perhaps at another time she may not be dangerously v/ouiided, though she car- ries tiie harpoon fast in her body ; when she will alternately dive and rise, and swim on with unabat- ed vicrour. She then soon reaches bcvond the length of the cord, and carries the boat along with amc' liimself that she will slacken her pace; but the moment never wives Somc- (lisap- st then .t other id, and ^•ill set If she Tth, she' she has it, if she boat iol- :d. She ,^nd hav- and tloats time she 1 she car- i she will h unabat- vond the long with Ih the axe observes lied down ,ink deep, bring; the fill flatter. but ihc nio incut J 97 moment grows critical ; unavoidable danger threa- tens them. But it is vain to hope ; their lives nnnt be saved: the cord is cut: the boat rises again. If, atttr thus getting loose, she makes a second ap- pearance, they will attack and wound her again. She soon dies ; and when dead, is towed alongside of their vessel, wlicre she is secured. Their next ca;e is to cut up their prey, and set the kettles .i 'boiling, in order to procure the oil, whi».h is the reward of th.eir dan<:erous enterprize. Dilferent oreupaiions promote vice or virtue, according to their peculiar influenc'e. The life of a whaler is a continual exercise of fortitude, cou- rage, activity, and presence of mind ; qualities re- novvneJ in those who have too often tiirnci! theni to the purposes of destroying or opprcssmg their fellow creatures, whilst they arc sometimes over- looked in the hardy mariner, who risks his life to procure a maintenance for himself and family, and contributes, by his labours, to the good of the community. 4 The honest captain having finished his narration, we thanked him for the information he had givea us, and Arthur entrusted him with a letter and a present to Sancho ; after which we took leave. He departed to his ship ; and we are preparing to em- bark on board a vessel bound for Boston. Believe me, with sincere attachment, your*s, H. FRANKLIN. Ka LETTER 1'jS 1 J.ETTER XXIX. Arthur Middhton ii> Ed.^iit. Aibamj. My dkar Boy, W^E came from Penobscot to Boston in a mcrcliantnian, heavily laden witli a cargo of fiic- wood ; it was happy tor us our passage lasted but two days, as the vciy deck was so crammed, that there was only room tor the steersHian, which ren- dered the voyage very disagreeable. Mr. Franklin could not resist the pleasure of staying a tew days with our friends at Boston, whf)se hospitality en- gaged us at different houses cvriy day; in one of these cheerful meetings, the conversation turned upon the fine arts, and an American, who was de- sirous of praising the talents of his countrymen, observed, ti)at several of the celebrated artiste whose works adorn our public exhibitions in Loi . don, were Americans. 1 was so ignorant, that I was obliged to enquire who they were. '* The pre- sident ot your Royal Academy," said he, ''West, is a native of Philadelphia, whose historical pic- tures will transmit his fame to posterity. Stuart was born in Rhode Island, and Trumball in Con- necticut," continued he, *' and this town may boast of having given birih to Copley, whose WOlk:i mil'. (Ml I Pen thui IT. I in turc' loct, voiks need oniv be srcn to c\clie tbe warmest ad- rnu.ition, ati anv one. ;\id he, •' ca«.t liis cvfs et o \V inn t( njinci order nioun the n: broug i in this Dutch aiicc ( land, t towr. and .si\ ;;oou h streets built w pyrami( >viih lai or anin ^ome, a; -nd iigh 'clongir t20: lancers ame in 's side, ame cc- service up, the nd two, avouriie and the re paint- uc coats, id black e gowns, I aprons, ilh plain inions on mode oi torms a one fit of s all their he gover- lys headed |the Pope; she dies, only her neat and est order, where the artments; all all ihe other buildings are shops or warehouses, in which thcv carrv on a variety of trades and mniiu- faciurcs. Thcv do not allow marriaf^e, and ohliire married people who enter their society to re- nounce each (Uhcr. But, notwithstanding their siuffuiarities, they are esteemed by their neigh- bours as an inda>irious, punctual, kind-hearted set of people. When the service was over, we returned to the inn to dinner, close to which we were sliown a mineral spring, esteemed eHicacious in many dis- orders, that bursts torth from the declivity of a mountain. The rest of the road to Albany lies in the midst of a mountainous district, but lately brought under the plough. \Vc took up our quarters in this city for a \v'cek or ten days, and it is full of Dutchmen and tiieir descendants, and the appear- ance ol the buildings so much like those in Hol- land, th.at I could have fancied myself in a Dutch tcnvr. It is distant from New York one hundred and sixty miles: it has an extensive trade, and a j;ood harbour. In the old part of the town the streets are narrow, and the houses ugly; bcin one house, di- vided into five famiiici, or five places ; having ori- ginally consisted of five nations only, till the Tus- caroras were permitted to join them. Ancient tra- dition says, that a Mohawk chief, called Tekanawi- tagh went westerly, with design to unite in firm compact the five dialects. Ododseihte, a principal chief of the Oncidas, with his tribe, were adopted by him as his son. These two leaders proceeded together to Onondaga t, where Thadsdashon pre- sided. They could not persuade him to accede to their proposal, hut by giving him the dignity of Guardian of the General Council, which was to be held at his village. These new associates were styled brothers ; as were the Senecas, who being the most westerly, received a name :]:, signifying a bear- ing the door of the house. * Akononghtropi. f Most of the Indian names arc significant. Onondaga was given to this tribe from its situation on a hill ; on this occasion, of obtaining the precedency, it received that of lioshbennake^hte, or 'I ille Bearer. c t Bonuinhokhont, The r, unit- mail re- eserved Oiieidas :onfeJc- T a fixed [)use, di- ving ori- ibeTus- cicnt tra- ekanawi- ! in firm 1209 Tiic Cayugag were adopted as a son, the younger brother ot the Oiieidaj. Agreeably to what 1 have at first ted I already tohl you, the contederaey at nrst nsiste ] ol three brothers and their two sons ^ but ilieTu.ca- roras, from Caiolina, having been adopted amongst the sons, tb.erc arc now three of each. " 1 he innovations ol the European scttleis on , the native territories of the various nations ol In- dians, has been the general cause ol wars between tiicm ; except tlie Indians have been induced by I'.ic arts ol the contending powers, who have in- truded themselves into our country, to take part in their quarrels as allies. In the Anricrican M-^ar, the principal J >^A IMohawks, Ondagas, Cavukias, ajid Ondowauas, re e adopted I ' o > ; ft> » h » * I.;...,J . .- .L„ _.:..!. I... ._! 1 ..I" NT. 1 .; procee sbon pre- H ded 1^"^'^ ^^ '^^ neighbourhood ol Niagara, and conti- liuicd in hostility with the Americans till the peace 1^ lof 178^. The Onondaeas and others prelerred ,0 accede W \'^ . " . 1,. ( Ineutralitv, till they were roused to arms by Suli- dignuy ^^ \ , . . ^ . r I »^ V.P r^'^''* invasion of their territory. M-^st of the ^„ __ neidas remained in the interest of the Americans, atcs were ■ . . . , • .1 ^ IHie British allies not bciny; sufficientiy protected being the I ^ ^ , By the peace, the southern and western tribes con- inued to oppose the An\eruans till 1795, when hey concluded a treaty with General Wa\ :ie, who, n setting the boundary line, whicii had been the abject ot contest, paid them twenty thousand dol- Ononcaga ■ ^^ ^^^ agreed to give them eight thousand annu- ill; on this I r,., ^, , r • 1 . » , .1 * f 'ly» A he Cherokees, trom a similar treaty, re- ved that of ^ ' t-^ u eive also a large pension in money, rrom the isdom of the present government ol the United The ^^^^^' !^10 States, a hope wnrms my brcavt tiiat peace wl, continue, an( 1 il e ri r I'cr.eration forsict the art :i r5 i;ch raver) Mcouri fthe f "Sin oF war. LL't the American?, (said lie,) remrmbd the losses sustaiMc-d h\- t'.ie ilelcat o\ their aiinic^, the distresses of their back settlements, and the small a Ivanta^re they gained IVoiii their most tor- ire grce tunate campaign undei General Wayne, in i7(}.|, jtie chac and the philanthropic sentiments of the good andilbours wise will prevail to cherili ihe tree of peace, overif huild the council ol the hao'^hty afvi tit'pist." ave gr To mv enquiry, wl.at: eficcls iheir intercourse with Karopeans had Ir.ul on th"ir manners, he gravely replied : " 1 he circun^jstanccs in whicli liic American war pUced the Indian conlcderac}', has injured their simpiicuy, and frequently su much changed their mode of llFc, as to oblige ihetu to depend on the British forts for a supply of pro. vision; their corn f»^!ds havin;r been destroyed, and game being there too scarce to depend wholly e Six 1 on the chace. They were detained in the neigh' longst lough a nd. "The adhen en imp lich ha servan( Wile the s so bourhood of Niagara, to assist us in its defence and often employed in incursions on the Americaii frontier. The intervals were too frequently spc: in licentious dances and drinkirfj: vices to wliici: in similar circumstances, the most polished naiii r are prone. The men neglected their hunting, z:\ were fed and clothed as a reward for their warli!. atchievements ; but there being no regular syster icial c( in bestowing these donations, it often happent ihdt tiie boldest furcd the best, and that the gii 3 pe ity. r T callc< The ] ongst t JJect til, will- •T 1 511 ace \^i' jhl'.ich were intcmlcd to be tlic rcconij)uu''e of t ibc .^Tt ravcry and merit, served only to stifle virtue and fuiembci fMCouraire vice. Nor did the decorum nml Industry r an'^ic-', f the female sex siifler less. and the j " Since that unhappy period, tlicse irregularities t ior- ire greatly relinqui.^hed. The men have resjmcd nios in i7()4, wie chace ; and many of them are employed in the prodd auilabours oi the coin field. TUcy practise the"arts c, over|t building and tencin<]^. Their cnltlc aiid horses ive greatly increased, and numhcis use the u.-rcour?cllough as well as the hoe, in the cultivation of the mners, hclnd. hiclit "The moral conduct of sueli ol i!;e Six Nations ear n in w julederacy,! adhere to the religion of their toielathers, has :qucntly sjlen improved by the influence of their decams, )blige ihemjliich has also led them to meet frequently for the ply of pro.lservance of their sacred feasts. destroyedl" When the French found it difHcult to subdue lend whollyle Six Nations by force, they sent missionaries the netghiiongst them. The priest who went to the Mo- ils defencclwks soon acquired the language and affections le Atnericail the people, many of whom embr.iced Christi- Lently spt'itv. From his custom of rising early to prayer, lea to w;ii^-ly called him the harbinger^ of day. ;hed naTu !■" The people of New York excited a jealousy ^untiuc;, 2 •••Ion 2St the Six Nations, lest the French should their warlil-fcject them by means of the priests; and in a lar tivsteiiicral council they determined to send them [U \n happ en Ihat the gs cjtile and horses. The men undergo ereaii /. o o ».e tim( fatimie in the beaver huntinff excursions, wherei , * . . • ■ *^f^ier owin;* to the scarcity of animals used foi food, in til ,, ^ northern countries, which abound with furs,they ari "A g cti aiousy ' plac "", the obliged to carry heavy loads of provisions. Proiil induces others to accompany the Canadian trade_^ W''^ '■-as in distant voyages to the northward ; but the leng of the way, and accidents, destroy numbers, arl II \ ■ V 1 • • • iMook check p'>puiatif)n. hnglish missionariers were ai terwards ?ti)t to the original villages, but they mat | a slow progress in gaining converts. ''During the various French wars, the Rom; catholics were on their side; but the other pa of the Six Nations were all lor the English. Previo I'^ecision . look r vi!h,( g wit ierally "•«,} to ^h the t 21 <' Previous to the American war, the yellow fc- art with vcr had made great havoc amongst the Moliawks eluctani and other tribes; so that, at itscoiiimenccfneni.but n, ihcrcv {^.y^ q[ i],(. olJ warriors reniaifjcd. f\ wevel «» Xhe Mohawks, \n llie dispute between the n •s, so ihii'l||ioiln.r country and the colonies, ahhouglj ifi the removcci||yii(Jst ot an American settlement, decidedly joined >d at dil-l|he king's interest, and went to Niagara, and pre- rhnawagejy^jlj.fi wuh some ot the other tribes to unite in the J anothcrl|3,^,(. cause. )Osed buiil «« ;\ great number of the Oncidas having been- lage ot ^'^•Innverted, by a missionary from New England, to \ ot Mon*jg doctrines of the Piesbyieriaiis, and feeling a iidrcd ^vii-laj^^ijiy ot the Mohawks, continued on the side of i, and <^^^^»,e Americans, lie relig^^l •♦ The elders of the other tribes did not unani- IH, and pos :'jus aarce to enter into the war tor a consi f< ider- dergo g'f^*'lb!e time, because thev considered tlie English )ns, wherflj ^\tiiei-icans as the same people, though tt.ey had fooa»^^^^ l;jrrelled: and thai wiien a reeonciliatioii shou d urs they lace bet .vec!! tl icm, hate ver sid«^ tnc had ons. Pf'^'l'u-n, they should gain the ill-will of bof I?. Whilst Idian trade lu the lengij se reason s restrained the ch.iets Irom coning to ecision. a number o f li le warriors, inclinec d t lumbers, ar r, took an active part. The surprise ot some ol iers were i,|. vilhigcs by parties of American soldiers, coi It they n- mafl the Romi g with other circumstances, drew them at last lerally into hostilitiri^. W^crc I, /'said Kaya- .) 1.) to recount ever y b itti m d skirmish in other P*|;(;ii ihetawnv warriors di-jiiu'^ni-hed themselves rlish. I lor Previof l> \i for braver)' ami .jctiviiy, I sliould tire youi j).n, cncc ; but I will relate some ot the niost nicniu rable actions. *• Tlic battle of Ari>ka was Fought near Fo: Stanwix. Ti/e hundred Mohawks, Onondagoc and Scnecas, assisted Colonel St. Leger in tl.; 5>icge of that fort, wlien nine hundred Americar.s. under General Harkfrncr, attempted to drav them irom it; but th.e Indians met them on the; way, and defeated them, with the loss of seveia liundreds, near Ariska Creek, whilst only thirty r. r warriors were killed. tl eir '* In ijy^) Sulivan invaded the country of I Six Nations witii a larse artr-v of several iliousa: men, About the same nu\c tiiei e was an alarm another invaaing army irom I 1 1 V ir.arter o Pitt, \v Inch circumstance obliged a great nuni f r i)(\ O f warriors to cover the villae"'js towards tlie A! it-1 rrnn y so thi tiKTC were onlv seven nun(lrc< ,1 the (iisiij inane shoui lidd i cncfn cr.ce i looked prcven Jian ar and a j: ^ered U: ground Aatjons " He to relate )pp ose Cju ivan, including one hundred rarigci>|ii/j"a wan who were loyalists, or prisoners, euihodied und(l>'rippedl Coloju'l Butler, wlio, from his knowledge of tl:PiuVe e, customs and manners of the Six Nations, wa> arPeveral, pointed agent for the Briti-h government. Tif nliurt. want of unanimity and system amcnsst the Ic; \Vl of the main body, was a greater obstacle to ilelie rem( succcs'i, than the inferiority cftheir numbers woiiipf'stern have been, if properly conducted. The C(;rr;.li<''ignanl tion of their manners, and attachment to tlicir o ^I'iJ not iiibcs, (whose private glory tliey sought, rather thAi ciieni' 21.5 . mc mo- tile general welfaic,) (liii'.iiiislied their energy an J ciisinicicstcdncss ; and made the leader who com- mandcd a numerous party, more anxious lest he should contribute to the advantage ot him who had a small one, than he was to unite a;Tainst the cncinv icar ro'l ,ondago^ er in ^^^A .mericar.s to diav] on tV.c;|i cnce t*om their knowledge ot the Knglish language, of seveial " The partiality of tlio British agents, in bestow- ing their lavours upon those who gained an infiu- il excited jcalousv in others wliose merits were ovcr- J' »y tliirtv r|| l^'^^l^cd. These jarring interests did not, howevcr prevcnt them from hovering in front ot the Anie- y niry o f iV. ■al iliousa;; an alarm nan arnr ifid witn a connaence ot superior prowess f land a promise of victo 0' but th.c cnem\' w :s su f- [fcred to get through a pas.s, where thcr« wa:> a good - (j'l iuiiSi^^J^nd of expectation that the resistance of the Six IS tike AViC hundred •] iNations would have been crowned v/ith success. '* Here 1 must s top tl le procrress ot m y hisLjr to relate an exiiaordinary expUnt of a young C, •ed rangcif >ga lira warrior, who, in a fit of bravado, is said lohave fodied undc 'ledge oi' w ons, ^va- ''? iment. a the lead; ick to tVie mbcr The cci-r to ih^'ii" C'^i It. rai ripped nakei, and armed only with a spear, to i tiftuve entered the American camp, where he slew several, and then returned to his countrymen " W'lien the Americans had advanced nearly to he remotest habitation ol the Ondowaga, the most (Stern canton of the Iroquois, the warriors ielt hiiignant that in their time should happen, whiit bJ not been known since the confederacy — that In enemy should pass through the whole range of their wor. hci 1 . I 216 ! 3 iheir house, as tliey e?:press it; and, still more to their disgrace, that it should have been suffe-ed without a desperate resistance. It was therefore ! resolved, notwithstanding the disparity of num. bers, to nuikc a stand at Onakaron, on the Upper Genessee Road, at the passage of a river. " The high, steep banks, were not found ^ch an advantageous situation, as they were at first suppos- ed, from the disparity of numbers, which was inf ; f^j. the proportion ot hundreds to thousands. Several chiefs proposed to attack the Americans; and en. deavour to cut off a wing, by a sudden onset, ra- ther than to wait for them with such an inferior force, in any fixed place. An cntrenchriirni or the eminence was pretcrred. The Amjricans be. gan the action by an attack on the entrmrhments: the warriors stood firm till the Ciieniv passed their flank, and, it was imagined, had got in their rear Terrified with the idea of being surrounded, tl.c main body fled: about an hundred remained figl.t. ing, as long as they could, and, by their later re- treat, in some measure covered the first fugitives Many of the chiefs distinguished themselves 13) exhortation and example; amongst these were cf" lonel Brand ; and Montour, famous for his un-, daunted bravery and intrepid conduct. As soorJ as the enemy appeared to be environing them, Ifl peaceal proposed a fierce attack in front, before ilic remciinJin thosl gre fro I Nat • of ( ent agr wou j ■"•" I cien( 5 ' unaci princ • ensue their assaul he iar by aci cxaspt spare of yoi to inju the hn the m< Amerii P'nsuet er could come up; but tf le General a ppr. :he nsi for the safety of tlieir families, who v/cr c at fought <1 I ( a\ «I7 more to herefove o{ r.um- le Upper d ^chan asuppos- ch was in Several] 5-, and en- onset, va-l] m in^'criorl chnicni on eiica'^s be. rirUnierUs )a-.secl ibeu| their rear. laine( cir later i^ m selves 13) Uc were co- lior bis u^i- As soor or thern, the leii^'^' l^cr.si :->Dre pr v;c ic a^ •'K great distance from their rear, prevented his advice from being adopted, *• After this defeat, the greater part of the Six Nations retired to Niagara, and by the descruction of their villages, corn, and cattle, became depend- ent on the fort for their provisions; which was a greater misfortune than their loss of men. They would have felt it less, if the country had yet so far abounded in game, as to have made up the oefi- ciency of their corn by plenty of venison. Being unaccustomed to salt provisions, which was their principal substitute, much sickness and mortality ensued. The desire of vengeance increased with their misfortunes, ard the back settlements were assaulted by war parties, in all directions. It is to be lamented that revenge was too often indulged by acts of cruelty on the innocent ; but they were exasperated against the Americans, who did not spare even the aged : forgetful that, in the vigour ot youth, those limbs that were now too enfeebled to injure them, had defended their infancy against the French. ♦* Some overtures for peace were made through the medium of the Oneidas, who adhered to the Americans ; but they were rejected, and the war pursued with unanimity : for it appeared, that the [peaceable had suffered more from their confidence in those with whom they wished to remain friend* ly, than the hostile, from the battles they had llought. ♦ , i 4 .-: L ** From V: . i i tho the vet at (I rit o Brar shou used of th H'drd those iianna tresses SIS •* From tliis period, to the conclusion of peace in 1783, every spring was ushered in by irnip- tions on the frontiers; and those places which some years before had been the scat of rural in- dustry ; cultivated fields, rapidly improving under the care of the husbandman; along whose borders the Iroquois, or Delaware hunters, pursued the fly- ing deer, and exchanged with their more sedentary neighbours the produce of the chace, for that of their fields or dairies, or the far fetched articles of European commerce; now became the scenes of blood and devastation. The hunter's approach, which used to be anticipated with pleasure, now excited a dire alarm to all the surrounding neigh. I battles bourhood." ** Such are the horrors of war," said! place I, "yet all nations plunge into it, for matters of I men, J small consequence to their welfare." ** Too true,"! brared said Kayashota: ** the spirit of revenge at this time I cipa] | fanned the flames of discord ; some considerablel «* j\^ attacks were made on the Mohawk river, and inlofdefcj the neighbourhood of Albany. General Brownlin the s being sent with a detachment to pursue the n-lcofnina vagers, the Iroquois and loyalists sulTcred him toluouid overtake them : a battle ensued, and with inferiorlashoten numbers they defeated him. The cruelties commii*gainst i ted in this quarter, were more the acts of stragglinJthe exp parties, than authorized by the main body. Tiisd the greatest enormities happened in Cherry V^alltvEose. * Some accounts lay much blame on Colonel Butlelave on] for these excesses ; but let it be remembered, thainow tn thuiiJ )roacb, ^19 though the warriors respected him, as deputed by the British government to preside over their affairs, yet they are subject only to tlieir own chiefs, who aL this juncture were animated with the same spi- rit of vengeance as the common people. Colonel Brand, and some others converted to Christianity, should be excepted from this reproach, for they used their utmost influence to restrain the fury of the warriors. These settlements to the east- ward of the Iroquois were nut the only sufferers; those to the south, on the banks of the Susqiic- hannah, and down the Ohio, felt equally the dis- tresses of war. One of the most considerable battles at this time was fought at Wioming. The place was attacked by a party of five hundred men, Indiana and loyalists; Kayashoten, a cele- brated war chief of the Senecas, was their piin- itthis liuiejcipal leader. " As the Americans had made great complaints of defenceless women and children being attacked in the settlements, in this instance, they sent to the commander to collect his warriors, and that they would wait for him at an appointed place. Kay- ashoten, who had been a distinguished warricr gamst the English, in the war which succeeded j^j-arralinAhe expulsion cH the French from Canada, address- id the British agent, Colonel Butler, to this piir- ose. • Since 1 have been a warrior, the English ave only known me as an eneiny; now, they shall now me as a friend ; and I trust, with the favour L 2 •£ 220 ©f the Great Spirit, that they will find my aid ef- fectual to the detriment of their enemies.' He then arranged the line in order of battle, and com- manded that none should fire until he gave the war shout. They received the Americans lying flat on the ground. The enemy advanced firing, and insulting them with the most opprobious lan- guage. After receiving the second fire, the war shout was given, and their well-directed shot soon threw the American line into confusion, and witii the spear and tomahawk they completed the rout. The slaughter was immense, and the loss on our side very trifling, though the numbers were nearly «qual. A vast concourse of prisoners were taken from the neighbourhood, many of whom now form part of the population of Upper Canada. " Brevity obliges me to pass over many skir- tnishes in the vicinity of the Minisink; yet I must relate the success of Colonel Brand, with a party of ninety men, when surprised and in danger. Al- ter having attacked and destroyed some part of the neighbouring settlements, they were retiring.i unprepared for an enemy, when the rear was ap- prised of the attack by a firing in the front. Abou: an hundred and sixty of the American Militia hadl pursued this party, and the more effectually to sur-l q prise them, had, by another rout, got before ih^f"!.* . and taken possession of a fording-place, whicl they knew must be passed. When the van, thereltr . ' lore, were crossing, they were saluted with ba^lj- , Til ^ Th to i ban mut On( in h ers, encn an ai the s me&si of th the d( selves ; appro; cult: , ci).stac \^'cre I six ki Britain lities jj ^vere h\ Jatitud< of the • 1 aid ct- .' He id cotn- rave the IS lying :d firing, lous lan- the war iViot soon and with the rout, iss on our ere nearly /ere taken now form • any skir- yet 1 must th a party anger. At- Tie part o( re retiring, ear was ap-l nt. Aboui| Militia had] Lially tosur )efore them, lace, whicl ; van, there' d with ball] Tl: The fire, however, was not so coolly directed as to be very detrimental. The rear of the Indian band hastened to the support of their brethren, mutually exhorting to exertions for their succour. One said, that it was his custom, when overtaken in his retreat, to add to the number of his prison- ers, and the scalps he had already taken trom the enemy ; another, that he never turned his heel on an attacking foe. The woods presently re-echoed the shouts of the tawny warriors ; and their leaden messengers of death so efTeciujlly answered those oi the assailants, that they were reduced to act on the defensive. The Americans had sheltered them- selves behind heaps of stones, which rendered the approach ot the Indians very dangerous and chfli- cu'it; at last, however, they broke ihroiig^li every cb:jtacle, and thoroughly routed tliem. Nir.ciy were left on the field, whilst the Indians had only six killed, besides some wounded. U he peace concluded in 1783, between Great Britain and America, caused a ces:iation of hosti- lities in this quarter; but the lands of the Indian? were by no means guaranteed by the treaty. From latitude 4^. the line passed through the main stream ot the St. Lawrence, and the centre of the Lakes Ontario, Eric, Huron, and Superior, with the straits of communication between them. The country to the south of this line was ceded to the United States, without any restrictions respect- ing the territory of those tribes who had fought L 3 lor for the royal cause. But the States, cither from a reverence for justice, or in order to avoid a re- newal of war with the Six Nations, always endea- voured to annul tlieir rights by sums of money, previous to the settlement of any pait. Some time alter the ratification of peace, pri- vate speculators attempted to obtain lands fiom the Six Nations, by partial conferences, without • onsulting the general council of these tribes ; hut neither the lulian chieftains, nor the United Stales, would raiity the bargain. Some purchases liorn (iiderent mbcs were made, and though they were sold too cheap, the payment of the annual in- terest has been punctual. During these transac- tions with the Six Nations, the western tribes seem neither to liave been perfectly at peace or war, ** In former times, when the Six Nations were united, and far more numerous than at present, with intrepid independent chiefs to cenduct them, they were higliiy venerated in this ^ait of the world ; and though deprived of several of these advantages, tiieir name is still respected by tlie neighbouring tribes. In their treaties they always liold the language of an independent people, and in that character they they proposed, a little before the peace of J 783, to the Ottawas, Cheppawas, Pontewattomics, Shawanons, Cherokees, and Creeks, a general confederacy, to protect their respective territories, and oppose the enemies of 1 . . Great Grc was twe« ed; fron: expr coini of al WCSt{ Natic denc( peare the pi ricans sidera which The 2gain! U'oiiji \v'a , i; ) oung ing th ot the auemp portuK t!ie Vi ^'ar th caiiicd the sul caused 223 r from a d a re- j endea- moncy, ICC, pri- cls fioni without : tribes ; e United lurchascs vi^h they nnual in- transac- rn tribes peace or Ions were t present, act them, It oi the ot these d by the ley always cople, and ttle before heppawas, .ees, and 3tect their enemies of Great Great Britain. The propriety of this proposal was but just perceived, by many, when peace be- tween Britain and the United States was conclud- ed; and deputies from the Six Nations met those from tlie other tribes, at Sandusky : the latter, to express the resohition tliey liad taken to unite in the common cause, the tormcr, to request a cessation of all farther hostility. The deputies from the western tribes thought that the chiets of the Six Nations were duped by ill advisers; mutual confi- dence was weakened ; and some on both sides ap- peared to be swayed more by private views than the public benefit. A partial treaty with the Ame- ricans was held at Muskingham, in which a con* siderable tract ol country was given up to them, which gave great offence to those w ho were absenr. The serious chiefs, however, only remonstrated against the impropriety ol such contracts, and woiild not allow any agreenient to be valid, which \va , not Siiiciioned by general consent. The )ou!»^ w.iniwrs were not so mt)dcrate. On hear- in;^ the clanns ol the Americans, in consequence ol the treaty with Great Britain; and seeing them attempt to make surveys, with their haughty de- portment at Muskingham, and the irregularities of t'le V^irginians, conspired to incline them more to war than peace. Some of the most forward even carried on hostilities in small detathtvi parties, and the subsequent conduct of the Americans soon caused them to become more general. L 4 In V In 1787 or 1788, a meeting was to be held, by cirputies from the diflferent tribes, at Wappato- TDdki, the principal village oi the Sliawanons, to confirm the union, and endeavour to obtain jus- tice wiih respect to the boundary. About fifty ot tlie Six Nations, and smaller parties from the other tribes, beirii^ arrived, the Shawanons, with their accustomed hospitality, wishing to give the best enteitainment to their guests, went to hunt bufla- loes, as being a greater rarity than venison. The party from the Six Nations, rather than remain in- active, went with them to the chace. Near the ex- pected time of their return, clouds ot dust rising irom the surrounding plains drew the attention of the women, and those who were left in the vil- lage. They supposed it was the return ot the hun- ters, e^peri.iliv when horscMi^f.n appeared, but on a ruM;er \\cw rlioy perceived it to be the enemy. 1 he few WcJiiiois who were there, not exceeding thirty, ran to arms, and made a resolute opposition; but what was such a handful of men against a tliousand. Most ot them fell; but whilst they were sacrificing themselves in this gallant defence, the women with their children had time to escape ; so that, 1 believe, the enemy did not take above forty of them prisoners. When the hunters returned, joyfully anticipating the satisfaction they should derive trom the social entertainments they had prepared for their brethren, and the acclamations of their wives for their exertions and success, (being ful te ; so ^2 25 beiii'T usually saluted by them at tlielr doors v/iih j:niilin(T countenances,) all was in gloomy silence j licaps ()[ ashes and half-burnt timber were only to be iound, where their houses had stood; and the paths where they had formerly strolled in peace, were now sprinkled with the blood of their friends. Anguish and rage took possession ot their liearts. All burned with a desire ot vengeance. They, liowever, received a gleam oi comfort on finding that many of their families had escaped, and were secure in the neighbouring thickets. Some were for pursuing the enemy immediately, but they were retrained from the improbability ot overtaking them, and their apprehension tor the safety of their friends who were prisoners, should tiiey at- tack any place in hopes of finding them. At length r was resolved to obtain prisoners suffi- cient to make an exchange, which in a little timo was efTected; trusting to the Great Spirit for a fa- vourable termination, and cautioning themselves in fu cure to b e unanimous in peace or war. Tht general inclination was for the latter; particularly alter the treacherous conduct of the Americans to- wards those who were willing to have been at peace on reasonable terms. The frequent meet- ings of the diflferent tribes inspired confidence, and hope of mutual assistance. But the general zeal of the young warriors to make one common cause, was diverted from its natural C(;urse by art- |iul intrigues; as the current of a river is turned bv tlir ingenious engineer from its natural bed, and only a small stream is left, formed from tlie drops that force through his biilvvar!;. Thus it was in this instance; particularly with the warriors of the Six Nations, who, from their ad jiccnt situation, number, and character, were the allies- most covet- ed, and the most able to assist the Shawanons, had their chiefs been animated with as pure patriotism as themselves. But the thirst for gain drew those leaders into private conferences with the Ameri- cans, unknown to their allies, with the hope of obtaining the price that might he offered for peace. 7 heir recommendations of it, therefore, on all oc- casions, became suspected to the Sliawanons and others, who expressed their sentiments so freely as to give ofTence, ar>d in tfeir turn became the objects of blame, as seeking war, more for the sake of plunder than necessity. '^1 hese mutual jealousies had risen to a great height in 1793. But to return to tlie year 1790. General Harmer, with fifteen hundred men, ar- rived at the Miami town, the chief residence ot the Shawanons, since their misfortunes at Wappa- tom.iki. At that time a preat number of the warri- ors were abs'-rt at their hunting grounds, and there were only about five or six hundred Indians in the jieighbourliood to oppose him. Nor were these all collected on his arrival; but tlie few that were there did not neglect to harass him by continual alarms, and depriving hi(n ol his horses and cattle. > . At Ov)7 led, and lie drops s it was irriors ot ,ituaiion, St covet, ions, bad latriotism -ew those e Ameri- hope ot for peace, on all oc- nons and ; so freely !camc tlie r the sake o a great ear 1790» men, ar sidencc ol ,t Wappa- the warri- , and there ians in the 'crc thc>c that were continual and cattle. At At last the general fiqlu be^an;and though some Ottowas, who had foo hastily engaged beti>re the others came up, were obliged to give way, and keep for sotnc distance a running figii', yet, when liicir t(jrces were nniied, the woods re-fchoing the shouts of the wariiors, and exhorfaiions ot the chiefs*, the Americans could no long<'i sustain the well directed fiie and impetuous on««et ot the brc- tliicn. They fled, and panic-tear brought up the rear. The pursuers, some on hoiscback, and others' on foot, followed, and cut them down until they were tiled of slaughter. Agishawa, an Ottawa chiet of much repute, saved hundreds of iliem, by lepreseniiiig, tlirii hiood enough was slied tor one day, and that tlie Gieat Spirit might be olFend- ed at their prosecuting the success he had given them, without mercy or compassion; and that he might yet give them other opportunities ot aveng- ing themselves on their enemies. Amongst ttie leaders who acquired fame, none was more dis- tinguished than a female of the Ottawa tribe. With her exhortations she impeded the fliglit of those who first retreated, and urged them to renew the fight with redoubled fury. * Waniors,* said she, * I liave ever heard you pride yourselves on your superiorilv to those enemies, whom you have held in ctjiitempt, and do I now see you shrink, at inequality of numbers. Wliat is that to men like you, who, when your voices were heard in the circle ot warrit rs, and the woods resounded L 6 with in <« heroine, and if they had disgraced themselves in her eyes by retreating wiih such disparity of numbers, liiey re-established their character for bravery, when joined by the others, though then they did not amount to half the number of tht . ; ^, enemy. cnerr hone indig sione cxcei tribei on a were whic easil) it wo few 1 many rouse disph was I the .V press( force veren their j biped the gr make cultiv recepi Genei vahy, ed as if ou not ler, the ily pro- lie field, orihv oi )een de- hat your ittle. U mfficient lumbers, lave pre- country, he Great :n, in ex- numbers, ^r, are in- couragc, ches over brave, as d shame- ; or if he tempt the warriors oacbes of hemselvcs sparity oi racter lor ough then er of \\^^ enemy. 229 enemy. A few nobly fell, whilst others received honourable marks of the day. The surprise and indignation of the Americans at this defeat occa- sioned another army to be raised, winch was to exceed the former greatly in numbers. These tribes, whilst acting on the offensive, had carried on a desultory war, by means of small parties, who were seldom able to effect any thing important ; which made the Americans suppose they would be easilyovercome, and that, il they should beattacked, it would be only some random ^hot, by which a few might fall. They seemed to have forgotten many occurrences, in which these tribes, when roused to take the field in considerable bodies, had displayed a confidence equal to their force. ** During the summer of 1791 this vaunted army was raised under Sinclair, and advanced towards the Miami, presuming that all nature would be im- pressed with awe at the approach of such a potent force ; that the trees of the forest would bow in re- verence ; the lakes and rivers shrink at the voice of their general, in fear of annihilation j and as to the bipeds of the wilderness, they were to be put under the ground, or into the water to feed the fish, and make way lor their fellow men of the towns and cultivated fields. •* The ardour of the tribes to give them a warm reception, was increased by the late expedition of General Wilkinson, who, with some hundred ca- valry, attacked a retired village, a few days' jour- ' ney , I 230 nev to the south-west of the Miami towns. He came upon it unexpectedly, and approached it with such undaunted valour as to frighten all the wo- men and children, who fled to the adjacent thicket, like young pheasants on the approach ot an enemy, whilst their mother amuses him from the pursuit. About fifteen poor Icllows who were in the vil- lace tv)ut'ht bravciVi and some fell. But to return to the advanxing army, to oppose which, warriors trom the different tribes assembled at the Miami towns to await its approach ; but this was so much delayed by building forts, that the confederated tribes, who wished to have the matter speedily ter- niinated, that they might not be detained from their bunting, grew impatient, and determined to go in quest of their enemies. Two hundred wariiors of the generous Shawanons, which indeed were a! 1 that remained in these parts ot that brave but un- fortunate people, who had for a long series of years been unjustly oppresseil and harassed with conse- quent war.s, against which their gallant warriors ever opposed tlieir fronts. I'he body of this peo- ple had retired to the westward, and left only this remnant in their ancient settlements. Being the most zealous and having sulFered most from the enem>', the lead was consi(>ncd to them bv joint consent, and one of their elder chieftains took the principal direction. •' The Delawares, who had inhabited the Atlan- tic shores, biit by gradual retiiemeni had now «• • rcdchcJ rea( ther \Vy seve eith( tion: tribe rcve these cmul by t^ the l( was ^ Otta\ horn Missi added villag opens the v< tiac. not C( to ass cause gives sport, waton g tho vnhigrs, to take their faniilies with tlu-m. The lo?; on their side, according to the best information, was tlie Wyandots, four men killed on the s^ot ; tl.e Mim- goes two; the Sliawanoiis six ; and the Del.iwaws 7'hose that fell of tiie CliiDpawa an! OitaNva they y chiefs fellov the in been i raised but a I tratioii . villdge i ported tribes ; only tc ! ceive a was th who ha so mar times hunted and thi rivcd a soft sp SIX, pp* were not considerable. The wounded vvi-re nu- merous ; but few were mortally irijured. The en- suing spring the Americans sent an ofTicer, iiaineJ Freemen, and t^"o other persons, to make ovt r' ires tfiese had been prisoner wjth the I Vds to serve as their interpreter. of peace : one f Del awares, warrior ihem b^ 4 the act Itable, V m saw and as : neither ISpirit, r k heart, Before th'y reached any of the villages, where they i?:J.3 ■ A gene- warriors iffrighted liles dis- pearance of those 2SS killed eports ot lost up- few pri- nd all the feU into non, they t, and the ling, pre- llages, or le victory dintely to ilclgCS, -o on ihcir was tfiC tl'.e Mm- 3cl.uv'a;('S tr! Oitawa Wi-re liu- The cn- er, naniei ovt-r' nes 1 wiih the uerpreier. es, where thev ihey would have been under the protection of the chiefs, they unfortunately encountered a ferocious fellow and his son, or nephew, who killed all hut the interpreter, whom they saved because he had been adopted into the nation. This atrocious deed raised the indignation of the chiefs and warriors ; but a considerable time elapsing from the perpe- tration o 11. Vllld gef f th tl IS crime to eneral nieetiiiji in the us man a. \ h. riends inrius s!v re- ported, that he was actuated by the good oi the tribes ; for that this pretended offer of peace was only to lull them into security, the better to de- ceive and to destroy them : that he thought war was their greatest security with the Americans, who had grasped so much territory, and by whom any of their warriors had fallen ar various so m times ol peace, who, unsuspicious ot dangc-r { d; had hunted in the neighbourhood of the settlements ; and that he made no doubt, had the deceased ar- rived at the villaees. he woiKI. with his iriir and I :u' lets an( I soft speeches, have prevailed on warriors to have listened to him, litul li f." deceived ihem by his pacific proposals: therclji •, tlK^ugh the act he had committed was cruel and luhosni- table, yet the anxiety he felt at thedjn^er in which he saw his beloved brethren, excited him to do it; land as such were his motives, he hoped it would neither meet with the displeasure of the Great [Spirit, nor of those whose welfare he had so much ^ |at heai^t. The general feeling corresponding with these 236 1 tlicse arguments, for that time, screened him from punishment. The warriors during this summer only annoyed the enemy in small parties, who brought in a few prisoners and scalps, with a great number ol liorses and cattle. Many confined their attacks to the neighbourhood oi the forts ; whilst others pe- netrated into the various parts of the back settle- ments, but nothing of moment was effected. In| the autumn, many of the Six Nations came to the Miami, particularly Senecas, or Ondowagas, to hold a council with the Shawanons, and warmly urged them to accept of peace, hinting, that their thirst of plunder led them astray, in desiring the continuance oi the war; and deprecating the idea that such motives should ever influence warrJoi>, or any others than : ■ welfare or glory of their tribes. These reproaches were noi received very kindly : nor did the Shawanons fail to retort, bv attributing the exhortations of the Ondowagas to peace, to interested views. They said their grievances were too well known, for any to sup- pose they were led into the field only from tl;e love of plunder; though they acknowledged tliiU, after a warrior had surmounted the dangers and hardships of war, and gloriously triumphed over his enemies, a rich booty was a great gratification. We, (said they,) have, with the favour of the Great Spirit, defeated and plundered their armie>, who, had they been equally fortunate, would have ^^^* depr > tcrrii \ plun nece calle • obi ig hunti any t our t we sfi mentj lights Spirit . ver SL lamcn valoui who V you, i ropear you hj try of sacrifii your n the fet your u you, o you mi wise y( cal to ' leprivc ^37 , irv of iliiiiji WOUi depriv 1 238 our warriors bravely falling in their defence ; and all these injuries inflicted by surprise, in a time ot peace, for tochis they owed their success. The bones ot their slaughtered armies yet bear record oi the hos- tility of their intentions, and the successful efforts of our warriors to render them ineffcciual. Are we then to embrace peace on any terms their injustice may propose ? No; if they sincerely desire it, let them enquire wlut was the boundary before we took up the hatchet in our fathers' cause. \Vc that iridc youi Grce ^v'e p exter ^by ,1 . mosp ^ tliese, and o have never yet found peace a security; it has ra.j may ther the more exposed us to danger, by putting our warriors off their guard. They are not atraid of war, to them it is a field of ulory. and the trophies there acquired they esteem more than the riches of their antagonists. Yet the love we bear our women an( children urges us to listen to the pleasing sounds of peace. 11 our enemy is in earnest, let him show it by the equity of his proposals. Let the Ohio, our an- cierlt boundary, yet remain so. Tell them, we will! freely grant peace ; but we will not relinquish aiiyl part ot our territory to obtain it. We are warriors ;lwljose and it we purchase peace, it can only be with ourl^vhcre J blood. Brethren, these are our sentiments, andli/Q^, a such were those ot your ancestors; we are alsolhc Mi assured that these feelings are not entirely banishedjng th< from your fires. Brcihien, we exhort you to showiiccom gnawi decay, by the fall an' its shac "In receive by tl ion w content •h 'ortl yourselves worthy tne name y ou bear. .ast ot )bt dinii the shackles of corruption, or rather infatuationliiopose thai ice ; and a time ot f he bones Diihehos- I cfToris of Aie w'c r injustice desire it, that arc fallen over you like a trap. Resume the independent spirit of your ancestors, and resign yourselves to the guidance of the impressions the Great Spirit may put into your hearts ; then will we plant the tree of peace, whose branches may extend to the ends of the world, if not prevented by the noxious qualities of the surrounding at- mosphere. We will unite our strength to remove before wel; these, and every other impediment to its growth ; use. \Vc| aii^ our mutual vengeance shall tall on those who it has ra.| may attempt to injure this tree, either by the DUttinC ourl gnawing ol its roots to cause an imperceptible raid of war,! decay, and by the first wind be blown down; or luhies there! by the lopping of its branches, injure with their ties oi theiTl fall any of the children who securely play under women andlits shade. g sounds oft •' In consequence of this treaty, the Americans n show it byireceived intimation that peace would be listened by the Shav/anons, and the tribes in conjunc- ion with them* The Shawanons and Mingoes contended that the Ohio should be the boundary, [whose pleasant banks they couid not relinquish, ivhcre they had hunted from infancy. In March, ments anu»J793, a mediating belt and speech were received at he Miami, from the agents of Great Britain, exhort- iig the Shawanons and others to listen to terms of ccommodation, and promising their mediation in bldining an equitable boundary. Sandusky was roposed for the place of rendezvous for the tribes, luti, Icrii ricd/ instc and d icrvic 240 tribes, anci the foot of the rapids of the Miami fur their treating with the American commissioners. •* In June, Captain Brand came to the Miami, with upwards of five hundred followers of the eastern tribes. The Shawanons and Delaware^ were yet occupied in planting their corn, so that few of them arrived till the beginning of Jiily. When they saw the numbers of their eastern brethren, suspicion arose, especially as their chiefs "had never led them in great bodies to their as- gistance in the field, even in times of the greatest I Ijop^. , difficulty; and now, when the council of a ff'W|thcAi venerable chiefs only was necessary, they couldljarv i attribute the presence of so many warriors only tol^ornc i the intriguing disposition of a certain chief, whc|tln^ firs might think, by their means, of carrying the mea.|t],c Am sures that suited his interest with the greater fa-lg^j^g cility. Their jealousy was increased by the re-lijc Jin collection that Captain Brand, and others of thflisted Six Nations, had been, the preceding summer, torn pg^..- Philadelphia, to confer with General Washingtonlj^j^j, on the concerns of the American tribes at largei^jj r without the concurrence of their western brethren-lf jj These jealousies made them listen with caution '^Indian every proposal of the Six nations, who acted aslju^d mediators, and even reject some councils tliatl^jj . were good, because they came from them. ThA^^ .i was no favourable omen at the outset of the delil,^^^ bcrations. The situation of the western tribes, witli' , ^•'10 cam u respect to the British government of Canada, wal^ anothel '^ acqu fll iami Cor oners. •s of t^e )elawarc^ n, 80 il^at of July. ir eastern neir chiefs ) their as- another powciful ohstaclc to peace. In the revo- hiiionary war, the principal argument to induce liicm to take up arms, was the defence of their territory again >i ilic encroachments ol the Ame- ricans ; but when peace was concluded between liritain and America, they were disappointed, and, instead of security, received only evasive speeches and distant promises. " Another war was apparently at hand, and the services of the tribes might be again nc.essary. A be greatest! hope was therefore held out ol assistance, shouid 1 of a few! the Americans refuse to ratify the ancient boun- tbey couHlilary, the Ohio, which was supposed to sirengiheri ors only lolsome in their inclination for war. The result of chief, whclihc first deliberation was to send deputies to aieot ng the mea-lihc American commissioners at Fort Eric, and en- greater fa-lquire whether they were empowered to remove by the rclthc line, which the Americans had formerly in- fers of thtBisicd upon, and which they had got sanctioned at summer, tofc partial treaty at Muskingum. The commis- Washingtonlloners replied, that they had power to change it ; )es at largeMnd, after the conference, proceeded *o the mouth rnbrethrenmf Detroit river, to Captain Elliot i;, whilst the h caution tolndian deputies retired to the Miami, where they ^ho acted ajjound a great number of the various tribes, parti- ouncils tnalularly from the eastward ; for a rumour prevailed, hem. Tni»at the Americans were .o pay an immense sum of of the t^culoney on the conclusion of peace. Those Indian! tribes, v^^i^lho came from amongst the European settlements, iCanada, ^^^m.j acquired no small taste for that article* though M not inoibtl J \ 010 =! not much industry, by which they nilglit obtain a supply of it; consequently, the)' wcie ready to grasp at it with much greater avidity than their western brethren, whose industry in the chacc, and that of their females in tlie villages, abundant- ly provided for all their wants. It is earnestly to be hoped that, as the game may decicase, thinncJ by the extraordinary exertions of the hunters, ex- cited by trade, domestic animals, and the consc quent branches of rural industry, may increase in such proportion, as not to suffer the natural an: J reasonable wants of man to seduce them to a\ j- rice, that debaser of the human mind. On furth. consultation, another emba.'5sv was sent to the com tnissioners at the mouth of the river, to know whc ther they would use their power to establish i! Ohio as theboundary, having been esteemed such b both parties before the separation from Great Britai: The commissioners proposed that the line shoul be drawn within fifty miles of the Ohio, and fered to pay a considerable sum of money for l difference. Captain Brand, and the eastern chi seconded this proposal with all their influencl ^^'eak and it would have been prudent to accept ilcl '^'-'tcr terms, for many obvious reasons ; particularly tr?l ^^'hilsti ' the very unequal contest so long maintained l^'^^^^* twcen a few hundud warriors, and so powcil^'^^ce ' a people as the United States. The greater pl^^^'^^^n .'would have consented to peace, but from a iP^^i^an •fousy of Captain Brand's motives. They thoJ-" "^^' tl as w 4 4 ' Wl pe; em on the ed shot io i\ and i\\Q gfor) riors army and this Ndtiol cspouj CduseJ »^ii 21 obtain a ready lo ban llH-ii ,ie chacc,' abundant- irnestly toi c, tbinncdj inters, cx.| the consc iy incrcasci natuial an:| icm to avi*^ On I'uitbcj . to tbe corr.j 3 know whe esiablish il' pmcdsucbb] rreatBritai: Vine shou ibio, and c :ir intlue accept larly rticu lalntainc.i Id so po^^"-^' aici" lut irom a Tbcy tbo that as they bad fougbt and conquered without his assistance, so they might treat oi peace without his arbitration. These suspicions weic fostered by the outrages of a half Shawanon, named M'Geo» which put both sides into such an unfriendly tem- per, that no happy termination was likely to be effected by this meeting. A report prevailed thai on the refusal of the terms ot the commissioners, the American army was to advance. 1 his restrain- ed the advocates for peace, lest their opinion^; should be attributed to iear. At length they came to the unanimous resolution to reject the overtures, and defy the hostile army, in the defeat of which the warriors hoped to acquire some addit.^nal glory. It was first proposed to assemble the war- riors and march to Greenville, where the American army was encamped, a place about an hundred and fifty miles distant. Various reasons prevented this plan ; particularly a rumour that the Six Nations, retiring in disgust, had determined to espouse the interests of the Americans. This caused a serious apprehension, to those who were weak enough to believe it; and was sufficient to deter them from ieavi'ig their villages unprotected, whilst they were in the field against the Ameri- cans. But the strongest impulse was that of the chace. The leaves were beginning to fall ; ihe jieason for bunting the buck was arrived. No ap- ipcarance ot the American army being in readiness '.0 march, lUc pleasures of hunting were much more M t enticing 2M enticing to the warriors than the hardships of a winter's campaign, against an enemy encamped in fortresses, and who, they were certain, would re- main there, while they appeared in force. "You, as a Europaan, may be surprised at the apparent reluctance of the chiefs and warriors to go against an enemy in large bodies, unless to op- pose an invading army ; but it will be readily ex- plained, when you consider that the desert they have to march through is generally of some ex- tent, and that their mode of supplying the army with provisions is different from your's. Every warrior is furnished with some sweet meal, or angwitzer ; (a composition of parched maize and maple sugar;} some bread; and, if he is mounted, very probably a small bag of maize: but as each individual is proud of his ability as a hunter, to supply himself in the desert with his gun, they arc not anxious that all should contribute an equal store, or that it should be calculated to last a stated time, independent of the product of the chacc- Some warriors may have a stock for a month, others for not more than two or three days ; but when they are together, there is no distinction, a! h in common, all fare alike. On their march,! convo venison and other game are abundant ; but if theylneithe remain several days in a place, in a numerous body,! expect as soon as the village provisions are expended theyldrivjn begin to suffer, because the great number of hunterilihree ol cause the game to leave their rout ; therefore, if thcjan amb cncrn cr ov I'd ni( cai in thn smi side fldtt gros a Jea kno\ who espec 'ities of tl they drivel ing s( underl times there ^1 ps of a mpetl in juld re- d at the irriors to 5S to op- adily ex- sert they some cx- thc army i. Every meal, or maize and , mounted, jt as each hunter, to |n, tliey arc an equal ast a stated the chace* a montli, days; but inction, all leir march, but if they Icrousbody, lended they r of huntersi lefore, if ^ enemy enemy is fortified, they arc necessitated either to overcome him. by storm, or retreat from hunger. Parties under fifty are not liable to these inconve- nicncics. liihr have but sufficient provisions to carry tliem two or three days* march, they abound in the game natural to the country they pass through ; and should they be obliged to halt, so small a number will never cause a scarcity. Be- sides, the personal vanity of the chiefs is most flattered by conducting small parties, as they en- gross the full glory of their atchievements. When a leading warrior concerts an enterprize, he makes known his designs to his friends and followers, who mostly hasten to assist in the undertaking; especially if he be a man of known courage, abi- lities and moderation, so as to retain the good will of the. warriors. If it be against the settlements, they seize some prisoners, horses, and cattle, and drive them away. If they are pursued, after hav- ing secured the captives and cattle at a distance under a guard, they return to meet the pursuing enemy, which they very frequently effect. At other times they have gone to the chain of forts, and there wailed till some party came out, or some convoy of provisions attempted to enter. When neither of these events occurred so soon as they expected, they endeavoured to cause a sortie, by jdriving away cattle or horses, and showing only lihree or four men, while the main body, forming Un ambuscade, the fugitives drew the pursuers into M 3 it. • I 21G it. Tills, and similar stratagems, arc practised, according to circumstances and the gjnius of those who conduct the enterprize. *' We will now, if you please, reium to tlic council, which determined to continue the war. The Little Otter, a celebrated warrior of the Oiio- wa nation, soon after conducted ap?.rty of sixty to a place called the Hurricane, or the St. Mary's, which was appointed to be the general rendez- vous tor those who were to join the intended expedition. T!ie necessity of Inciting for winter clothing, and other circumstances, delayed the Shawanons and others from meeting them ; and ttic Little Otter growing impatient to complete his campaign, that he might be at leisure for the chacc, set off with his own party, solely with the addition of two Wyandots, who joined him tn the road ot communication, between Greenville and Ken- tucky ; where they discovered an American escoit, of three companies of riflemen, with provisions, laden on pack-horses and oxen, for Genera! Wayne's army, which lay encamped at Green- ville. The Ottowas attacked them immediately, and defeated them, with no other injury to them- selves than one man wounded. They killed twenty of the enemy, who were three times their number, and took ten prisoners : the rest ran awav without being pursued; for prudence required their de- parture, lest they should be overpowered by a su- perior force from the main army They thereloic staid >faid was com! as a I Lick, num( -raze liicir cd th( Jered servic prepai itatior rcpcat( iamed genera that bo uant ; of the ' custom die ene 'iberty. i>hawan •^'hich t to sumi] fience ; '.'lose of '*r (^'lar- who took J re, from any thing :annpaign; ;, who bc- oncerning they sepa- 1 the mean equal suc- an expcf- cs in ob- r had en- e council ; a party of i, to build the ^tribes \niton and 1 the Ame- ad time to :ld early in : chiefs and 1 they had ained ihem till ey ttowas a came nd in 919 till the latter end of June, when the O Chippcwas, along the shores of the Lake their canoes to the foot of the rapids of Miami, a little above the new tort. Some chiefs wished to detain these, till more, who were on the way, should arrive, or the Amciicans show signs ol coming out of their forts ; when they might pro- ceed to the Glaiz, where they would find the Sh Mi id Delaw awanons, Mingocs, and JJelawares, joined by the Pontewattomies and Miamis,and in union with them to attack the enemy. For they feared the dif- ficulties of supporting such numbers, if all assem- bled at the frontier village, and tliat they would CDuseijuenify grow impatient to engage, under the disadvantages of encountering their opponents with inferioiity of force, and sheltered umler block- houses, &c. Besides, the brave impetuosity of the Chippawas and Ottawas being well known, was thought likely to ensure success; but should they be detained, and assist only in an inconsiderable action, they would think they had performed their part in the campaign. Renown was their principal object ; for few extended their views to the per- manent welfare of their tribes, by checking the en- croachments of the Americans, and increasing the strength and importance ot the confederacy by dieir warlike atchievcnients. In order to restrain their impatience of delay, and turn their thirst of private honour to the public good, they should have M J been 250 bpcn kept in action, and amused in the friendly emulation of ball-playing, foot-races, and war- dmces, till an opportunity offered of striking a decisive blo\N'. This being neglected, and feeling a scarcity of provisions, the Chippavvas and Otto- was were in haste to leave tiie rapids. Some went to the Glaiz, and others to a place called the Fallen Timber; a ruined village, fifty miles from the Glaiz, which was to be the place of rendezvous. These tribes arriving first, had an opportunity of hunt- ing, and supplying themselves with mankipins, whilst they waited for their brethren. Numerous tribes marched from the Glaiz : the Delawares only refused to join the rest, under pretence of going another road, lest their numbers sliould oc- casion a scarcity ; but their motives were attri- buted to the intrigues of the Americans, to prevent them from joining in hostilities, though they dared not openly refuse. There wcie assembled jt the Fallen Timber about twelve hundred, of different tribes. When the confederates were within tliirty miles of Green- ville, where General Wayne's army lay in a forti- fied encampnient, scouts were sent to reconnoitre; some towards the American camp, others to Fort Recovery, erected where Geneial Sinclair had been defeated. The former soon discovered a Fcout of the Chicasaws, whom they put to fliglit. Observing that they were nearly naked, they sup- posed them to be the forerunners of a grCcUor body q:>i licndly (1 war- rikinj.^ a feeling id Otto- mo went ic Fallen iicGlai/-, . These of luint- ankipins, ■lumerous 3ela wares etencc of ihould oc- ;ere aitri- to prevent tbcy dared ,n Tinibcr Is. When of Green- in a forti- Iconnoitre; Icrs to I'ovt Inciair had covered a .It to night. |, ihcy sup- a grc.ncr body bod' rl Fth( y, pornaps oi tnc main army On tl »cir return, ]t was det( ermincd to advance iii hies, to be reauv to form instantly, should they meet the enemy, which tliey rather expected. From the other scout, wliom they met on the road, they received intelil' gence, ilidt the Americans were in a considerable the outside of Fort Recovery. This body on causec 1 division of sentiment. 'Flie Chippawas and Ottowds, who were the most numerous, ex- pected that a defcrancc should be paid to their opinion, which was, to proceed to the Fort ; but the other tribes, fearing that the raslmess o{ the Chippawas might precipitate them into a ililhiuk situation, and weighing the disadvantages ul at- tacking a well fortified fort, without l.uidcrs or cannon, were averse from that measure, and ad- vised to march to the camp, hoping that General W dd th( battle; ti tl iin ex- ay ne woula give tnem Datile; trusting, iioi penence, that, tliough he had above three limes the number, by the blessing oi the Great Spirit, "ley might gain sucii a victory, as would deter their opponents Irom farther encroachments. Yet a victory would not have saved ihein form the baneful intrigues of those sclicmers, who, under the mask of friendship, gnaw their entrails. I'he arms of the confederates liad already sulhcientiy triumphed to have obtained, by prudent manage- ment, every thing to be desired. 'I he confederacy depended upon the assistance of Gicdt Biiiain, because thev had formcriy iuuiiiu . ' M t> in V' '252 in licr cause, which was indeed the origin of tlie present war. This liopc was Mipportcd by Cap- tain hllioi, acconipanyirg the conlcderates wiili about thirty English and Canadian traders, ser- vants, ik.c. The WycUidots and Mingoes request- ed him to urge their brethren to nurcli to the en- campment at Grccnvilie, relying upon his influ- ence, as the reprcseuiativc ot their Great Father, but he declined inlcrlering. •* In the mean time, it was agreed to form a camp, and send a detachment to reconnoitre the force of the Chicasaws. They soon discovered it to have been a party ot fifty or sixty of that tribe, who fled immediately on receiving the alarm. In the evening a council wa^ held ; and the Chippa- was carried tlieir point of going to Fort Recovery. The next morning the confederates changed their course, according to that determination, and en- camped within a few miles. Scouts were dispatch- ed by the three tribes, to see whether the Ameri- cans yet remained in that neighbourhood; think- ing, if they were gone, they might yet prevail with the Chippawas to proceed towards the army, with- out attempting any thing against the fort. The scouts reported, that they did remain there. On this they began their march, with more expedition than regularity; for they found that the Americans ahout the fort were only a detachment of a few iiundreds from the main army, not sufficient to give the confederates in general an opportunity of acquiring ons( wer thei nior Sha! man ragii A i\ kilje front overj two no ot Shaw Ming thirty and 7 into thoug regu entert Chipf for tl that h the fo they w house were I II oi the by Cap- Les with 3rs, ser- request- 3 the cn- his inilu- it Failier, o form a iu)Uie the covered it that tribe, larm. In ic Chippa- Recovery. nged their 1, and en- dispatch- he Ameri- od; think- revail with rmy, with- fort. The here. On expedition Americans of a few fficient to lortunity of acquiring acquiring glory; so all were eager to be first in the onset. The Wyandots, Mingocs, and Shawanons were more in the van than the others, many of them being mounted ; besides, they wcicgeneraily more swift ot foot than the Chippawas. *• Tlie Americans were just mider the fort. A Shawanon in the van, seeing theAniciican com- mander in the front of his men, bravely encou- raging them, advanced upon him and was killed, A Mingo, who followed to succour Ms friend, killed the commander. A captain, also, in the front, was encountered by a half Shawanon, who overpowered him. The American party of only two hundred was instantaneously defeated, with no other loss sustained by the three tribes than the Shawanon already mentioned, a Wyandot, and a Mingo wounded in the thigh. There were about thirty of the Americans killed in this encounter, and p lew prisoners taken. The remainder escaped into th? f'nt, or were scattered in the woods, though thty weie pursued to the gates; and, had a regular plan Seen formed, the assailants might have entered with them, and the courage of the poor Chippawas would not havt been spent in vain ; tor they coming up, and finding glory so scarce that hardly any fell to their share, rushed on to the fort without any regularity or system; whence they were annoyed with a severe fire from a block- house, and the loopholes of the stockades, wlich were too high to pass over hastily without ladders. Notwithstanding 5 NoMvithstanJing tliey were iluH es'poscd, they re- turn* '1 the file upon their concealed <"neniie'i; and, ihc continued shrieks, it evident t!i Trom me continuea snrieKs, it vv-s* eviuent t'loir cfTorts were not inefFcctual. Findir.^ no probahi- lity of cairying the iort, they retired, giving the Americans reason of exultaiion; for tne garrison and convoy altogether was supposed not to exceed iive hundred men. •* The next dav, flndinc tliemsclves without provisions and encumbered with the wounded, it was determined to return homewards, iliougli the result of the expedition made every warrior retire reluctantly. 1 he loss of the Chippawas under the fort was said to be sixteen. The only advanta^;c gained, was about two hundred packhorses, and some oxen, that fell into the hands of the conle- derates. Though the confederates were reinforced by four hundred Delawures and Pontawattoniii ^, yet, on consulting on the future operations, nothing further could at tliat time be undertaken; and it wa, unanimously agreed to make the best of their way to their respective villages, because they were to- tally destitute of provisionr., and the Chippawas were determined to return with ihcir woundiil companions. The Delaware and Shawanon village at the Claiz was surprised, about a month after, by the ai rival ol an American subaltern, who actjuamteJ them tiiat he had left General Wayne, wiili the army of five thousand men, at the distance of only two day's journey, picvicui Th •^.).) tlicy re- lies; and, lent tlicir p rob til) i- ;iving llic : garrison to cxcec»uou8 answer, that there were not a sufli- cient number r\ chiefs assenibicd to authc^rizc them to enter into a treaty, but that if he would wait twenty days, they hoped to be able to inform him further of their sentiments. They flattered them- selves that the British Fort at the Miami was to have co-operated with their warriors, and have afforded them shelter, should the Americans ad- vance so suddenly as not to give them time to as- semble in sufficient numbers to oppose them ; but in this hope they were gradually undeceived, for the environs of the fort being woods, where cavalry could not act advantageouscly, was an excellent situation to wait for a general engagements. Yet they were urged to fix upon a plain at two miles distance, scarcely covered on one side by the river, which at that time was so shallow, that it was no great impediment to infantry, much less to men well mounted. On the second day of forming, their situation was more favourable, being on an eminence, quite below the rapids, where the river both widens and deepens, and at the utmost edge of the Hats on that side the river, whilst it over- looked those on tlie opposite shore, where the house of the British agent, Colonel M'Gee, stood; and being woods, the warriors of the con- federate tribes might have made such a resistance, as would have defied their superiority of numbers. On t to ta days patiei rendc the li The hundi litia, j iiicnts liiindi scarce Amer van g them i rinenii valry side tl] the re stratag they r sued t many, mount Ameri ihem ; bers, t ceivin^ on the sign of 1 it were, e, to send ot a sufli- rlzc them ould wait form him red them- ni was to and have ricans ad- time to as- hem ; but ed, for the re cavalry excellent cnts. Yet two miles the river, it was no s to men forming, ng on an the river Tiost edge t it over- ivhere the M'Gec, the con- esistance, numbers. 7 1)7 On the third day, they were again prevailed with to take their former station. Tlic two preceding (lays they had waited for the enemy with groat patience; suffering from tliirst and hunger, which rendered them backward to resume their places in the ]'inc, till they had taken sufficient refreshment, ri.c W^yandots, however, to the amount of an hundred and fifty, with thirty of the Detroit Mi- litia, placed themselves on the right : small detach- ments of the other tribes, amounting to near three hundred, took tlieir stations oti the left, They had scarcely reached the ground, when they saw the Americans advance through the plain. It was the van guard, intended by General Wayne to lead them into a snare, while fifteen hundred Kentucky riflemen were to pass the right flank, and the ca- valry proceed down the meadows on the opposite side the river, till they should cross it, and fall on the rear of the iift flank. They gave into this stratagem, for when the Americans came very near, they rushed on them, with great impetuosity, pur- sued them near two miles, but did not destroy many. The greater part of this detachment being mounted, they now perceived the centre of the American army, drawn up in order to receive them; and notwithstanding the disparity of num- bers, they would have made an essay, but per- ceiving a numerous body of cavalry going down on the other side the river, with the apparent de- sign of crossing in their rear, they retreated ; an- noying 2jS noying the enemy's cavalry with their fire, wiicn- th ithi In ih( ever tiicy came within reach, in tne mean time the Wyandots, (who, as I have already said, were on the right,) wlientlicy perceived their com- panions on the leit advance in pursuit of the Ame- ricans, desirous of keeping pace with them, and at the same time to guard against having their flank passed by the enemy, went forward, inclining to the riglit; and thus met the Kentucky riflemen, whom tliey engaged under the disadvantages ot very unc(jual numbers, until a chief ordeied a re- treat, thinking it ineffectual to combat such a vast superiority unsupported. They retired with the loss of nine waniois, amongst whom were some leading chiefs, besides a few made prisoners. The retreat was conducted with so much coolness, that the Americans did no derive any great advan- tagc trom the adverse fortune of the day. The wounded were carried off in front of the army ; for the warriors mutually supported each othei, by firing and retreating alternately, till out of reach of the enemy. The whole loss ol the confederates may be computed under thirty mCn ; whilst the Americans, by their own account, had two hun. dred killed and wounded. The warriors, who le- mained in the encatnpment to regale tliemselves, on hearing the firing, seized their arms, and ran tow fids the scene ol action; but before they ar- rived there, met their comp .nions retreating, so that they all returned together. On passing the fort, fort, s( others b.)tli \ the ga ■iL'ceiv anxioL ilicy n d wcr biood, take pi icives their e Xotwit to the he did probab Inge; cunledi liicy a di)U', w '.lie Eri^ '.ion of uhen t djubiir In this ijny sigi iOlUQ in Cleans 6 •ng thci ?, when- can time dy said, icir com- be Amc- lem, and bcir flaiik lining to riHcnicn, itagcs ol" ?ied a ro- ich a vast with the k'cre some Krs. The coolness, ;at advan- day. The he army ; othei, by [' reach of iederates whilst the two hun. , who ie« emselvcs, , and rail they ar- .'aiing, so assing tlic fort , 250 fort, some wished to enter to join in its defence; others who were wounded desired to be taken in : b.)tli were refused. This suspicious conduct of tl.e garrison damped their energy; ior instead ot icceiving tlic assistance of allies, thcv tound them anxious to remove the contest to a distance, that ilicy might not be involved in it. 1 hey saw, as t were, a fort built on the territory with their biood, apparently tor no other purpose than to take possession: so tliat they began to think ihein- seives in no le-^s danger ironi their friends, tijan tlicir enemies, as far as respected encroachmenta. Xotwitiisianding the many Circumstances adverse to the tribes, and favourable to General Wayne, lie did net gain so complete an advantage as he probably expected from his military skill and cou- rige; his plan, howcvci', lor encompassing the coidederate w,jrriors proved entirely abortive. They all assembled at the farther end of the mea- i>\\', where ibey had been cncampcil a Uii;e below the English iort. There they waited in r ■ per.ta- uon of hearing the fort attacked by the AniCiicans, when they intended to return to ihc iight; rot djubting of victory when ihey acted ds auxiliaries. In this they were disappointed, for there was not ci\y sign ot hostility shown by either party, except some interchange of rude language; yet the Ame- iicatis showed no respect to the British flag, vent- nij their rage on the corn fields and wigwams*. Wigwam, an Indian lunise. some 1>60 some of which being composed of bark, required little less trouble to burn than to build. The confederates retired to a small river, called Swan Creek, about five or six mile^ below the tort, on the other side ot which was an advantageous si- tuation for an encampment, where a small number mi^ht defend tliemselvcs against very superior force. All tliosc who did not go to their hunti-!^ grounds remained here during the winter, and were, abundantly supplied with provisions by li.c Brirish agent, so loug as they continued here; br.i tliev had none if they went to any distance, where they might prepare other corn fields, or in any other way remedy their losses. The expence wag excessive: lialf ot it, a few months sooner bestow, ed, would have sufhced, and prevented the e^■•'. Invitations to peace were sent by the Americans, through a Canadian trader who had been taken prisoner, and others. A person named William , whose mother had been a captive, and married to a Mohawk, had brought him up a trader. This man was disgusted with the British Indian depart- ment, on various accounts, and saw, in the present opportunity, a hopeful prospect tor advancing his fortune with the Americans. They anxiously de- sired to conciliate the tribes, but were at a loss for a proper person to convey their real intentions and remove hostilities and suspicion from their minds. They were therefore ready to heap lavours on whoever would undertake the commission, D urine; Dui Min \ of witii Icnc thus well prisi (Jaun sbou cialh COU( • thr ( youn^ ^vhom concil oni\- t iiicndi meet i •• Tl :Tom c last bi peace 1 nent fc though that re brothei among patrioti 251 During the winter, Williams, his brother, and a Mingo, went to General Wayne's camp, and terms of pacification were proposed. They returned with extravagant praises of American benevo- lence, generosity, and afFability. The way being thus opened, others followed, and were equally well pleased with their reception. It is not sur- prising that the warriors, who had never been (liiunted by the bravery or power of their enemies, should now be captivated by their civility; espe- cially when they compared the politeness and courteous deportment of the Americans, with the haughtiness of the Detroit traders, who stupified the old with rum, and dazzled the eyes of the young with gifts. The Indian department, through whom the king's bounty passed, were equally un- conciliating, in expceiing a reverence that was due been taken I only to a dignified, benevolent, conduct. This friendly intercourse produced an agreement to meet in council, at Midsummer, to treat of peace. '* The Shawanonsand Mingoci were rather averse ■'rom comin,i>; to terms, lest, from the evrnt of the •ast battle, ihe enemy might think he had gained peace by his prowess. Blue Jdcket, a chief emi- nent for property, talents, and, I may add, valour, though some have detracted from his renown in ntentions |'iiat respect, added his influence to that of his brother, who was the most distinguished warrior mong the Shawanons. None could have more atriotism than Blue Jacket: he had been to the MiS'>isbippit required cr, called ,v the fort, ageous si- \\ number ' superior ir huntini^ ntcr, nnil )ns by tiic I here; but nee, where or in any icpence was ler bestow- jd the evil. Americans, ivli:sslsslppl, to seek for friends to support his bre- thren in the war; but he saw that they were desti. lute of the means of keeping a great bo(]y togt-. ther, or of supplying tliern with the necessary am. munition, and that they could not rely on tlie a>. sistancc of Great Britain: for these reasons, Ic thought the offers of a generous enemy were no: to be refused, and persuaded many of the Sliaw. anons to go to the treaty. By the loss nf the brav^ chieis who fell at Miami Rapids, the Wyandots o: Sandusky had only the Crane, except some yoiiri: men who were too modest to interfere, and he di: not seem to understand the true interest of hi! tribe. The traders of Detroit were tampering wit;: Agusiiawa, the Ottawa chief, t.o purchase, or rathe: trick him out of, some land. *' The Crane was too ready to surrender aii\ rights he possessed, provided he was well rewarded Agushawa, though a sensible and brave man, \\\. old and weak, and too much addicted to intoxicat ing li(|[Uors. From a council composed of suchnicrr bers, who met without any previous delibevaiioi: and summoned by himself. General Wayne hu.: every reason to expect he should succeed belt in negot tition than he had done in the field. D\- j)Utes amongst themselves, concerning the prior; of possession, and the consequent right of disjH'ij niorc sal, rendered it still easier to General Wayne :J of a obtain such a treaty as he wished, on paying 1 der at <)uantiiv of good^, and stipulating to give a ccrl z^^i tai Tl a I Si, the lin Sta to I < iiUc tein thei clu( that ccla: and s}-st( incfj IFvv key have derat of h tile w ?nd 1 t, ^ 2G3 ft bis brc ere desii- o^y togc cssary an^| on ibe a- casons, I cl y were m 'I the Shaw >i" the brav'l /yandots c: some youii; , and be (b:l erest ot bu ipcring wit;;i ise, or ratbc: rrender any 11 rcNvardcd c man, ^^"^ Ito intox'n-''t'| [ such nit IT'- cUberaiior. Wavne bu.:| ceed bciu field. D- the priori' bt oi dispo a Wayne t )n paying ive a cci g tain sum in mcrcbandizc to cacli tribe annually. The line agreed upon ran along the Kaikhage, to a branch ot the Siiskarawas ; then west, to where Sinclair was dctcaied ; anJ to the south, opposite the Kentucky river. The north an;! west of this line the confederate tribes retained, but tiie United States held several ports where trading places were to be c itablished. «' Thus ended a war which had been entered ir.to without foresight ; persevered in without sys- tem; and alihough the tribes might have obtained their own terms in granting peace, yet was it con- cluded at random, and they gained no advantage that might not have been obtainetl witiiout the eclat of their victc-ries. •' From this we may learn, that energy of mind, and even talents, unless regulated by some wise system, and directed to some end, may be exerted ineflcctiialiy to produce any sub>tantial benefit. If we except the too liberal introduction of whis- key amongst the tribes, the cfTccts of this peace have been of general advantage; and iroin the mo- deration of the American government, the friends of humanity may hope it will long continue, and the warrior's sword be turned into a ploughshare, ?nd his battle axe into an axe to fell trees. No more the v. idow with her tears sprinkle the grave of a beloved husband, who has sacrificed ihe ten- der anxiety of a father, to his thirst for glory and zeal \ov his tribe. Nor does the mother lament her '^Gi her son, whom she hoped would have comlortcj her drooping years, cut ofT in the bloom of youth, like some tall, tender sapling, that yields to the keen cutting axe o\ the laborious woodman. It falls, and with it sinks the expectation of what it might have been, 'vhen once its towering top had overlooked the forest, and its wide-spreading, ma- jestic branches, green with its beauteous foliage, aifordcd spacious shelter to the wearied traveller, from the sun's scorching heat*^." This, my dear brother, is the substance of luy Mohawk's narrative; which in many places you must admire, for the simplicity and expression of the figures, whilst it describes the manners of these untutored nations, both in time of war and iti council. I have nothing further to say, but, witli Indian simplicity, to bid you farewell. H. FRANKLIN. D .i.'u'a- Liriv Co f'v th( •iulia f \ y I bv Imjid it * The five Mohawk nations are Uio sanif rare with lhf)^«' c.jlh'd by IIjc I'R-nch, lRH|Uois. 'J'ln' Wyandot-, or Union, art' lik«'wisi' of the sanu* lineaj^e. The Clii[)j)a\vaN, Otto\va>, ami Sliawanons, areall dcnoniinah-tl Notlowcgii. ThcKni'- lish call those \slio sided witii llie Shawaiions, NJiiii^'Hh; svliich is tlie coninion appellation of the five uatious iluii^ the Ohio, as Mohawk is at Albany. Toss I » '!■> ai '^■e of -■' orb "t o{ living I -tiilw h' uiic LEinit 9fi^ 03 ►m iortcd t* youlh, s to man. tl'.e It { whal it bad ma- gtop ding, IS foliage, tvdVcUer LETTER XXXI. Arthur Middhion to lih Brother EcUhi. Dear Edwin St. Johii^i, on Luke i'lnwijtlmn. ICC o A PROMISE, my dear Edwin, should a]\s'ay<^ be observed: I hasten to fulfil mine, and f my I r,i'^' y^ii the particulars ol our journey from AI- \acc3 you I 1^'Hiv to i^alve Chanjplain. prcssion o t I C^oliog is a small village, which is distinguished crs o var an { these I ^' the neighbourhood ol ? remarkable fail in the d in I Mohawk river. Though a cataract is no great no- but will* |''hy lor me, 1 was cliarmcd with the subhmity ol' \i''\<, which differs i n many respects :rom most I KKLIN. B '^' before seen, Tiie l)reaJtli o\' t!;e river is three jndicd y.ifiU; a ledge of rocks extends quire :ro;>s it, and tiom the top ot them, the water I^ about hit) Icet perpciidirularlv. The appear- or lUiion^ n. C of this grand spectacle varies according in ;[.tdruily ol water: aftci iieavy rjin*:, ii de- i>, Mi Hi >Ol'h, ;d cr.us in .in uJioroKcn slice I rom one bank to lii-aliou? iiowt oMicr w 1, at oihcr n:ne tl le iire.itei LETIIR iit ot the d.uk-coloured rocks are visible. Fol- fv\nig the direction of the Hudson river, wc came :'iiilwatcr, a plac* iliat receives its name from |o uncommon tranquillity ol that part of the N stream 206 «trcam opposite to It. Wc wti^ stopped an hour or two by some mineral springs upon the borders of a marsh. Each ol them is contained in the crater of a pyramidal rock, about a man's hcijjht. The rocks seem to have been formed by the petri- faction of the water, and the water within them is generally below the rim of the moutli of the rock, and bubbles up, as if boiling; and at the be- ginning ot the summer, regularly overflows the bason. The guide showed us the properties u{ these springs in several experiments. They extin- guish a lighted candle in an instant, and suffocate any animal that is put down into the rock ; but nci- ther Mr. Franklin or myself would suffer any crcd. ture capable of feeling, to be tormented for our amusement. After having gratified our curiosity, we quickened our pace, and reached Saratoga be- fore the close of evening. It consists of a few dei tached houses, and a Dutch reformed church. Tli] place excited no very flattering recollections in ni- mind, as being remarkable for the surrender o] General Burgoyne. Whilst we were examiniij the remains of the encampments, with painful rej flections on the ill success of our countrymen, grey-headed American, perceiving wc were stra.l gers, accosted us with a degree of national pridj perhaps allowable, but not very congenial to o- sensations at that moment, and related the eve:.: . of that unfortunate day. •* There, gentlenunl said he, ** is the very spot where the British gcni stopped an hour upoii the borders :oiitaincd in the jt a man's height. med by the pctri- ,3tiT within them he mouth of the g ; and at the be- ly overflows the the properties ot jnts. They cxtin- int, and suffocate the rock ; but nci- lid suffer any crea. ormented for our ified our curiosity, iched Saratoga be )nsists of a few de. rmed church. Tii recollections in nr. r the surrender o re were examinin! ts, with painful re 3ur countrymen 'ing we were strai e of national prid' ry congenial to o id related the eve:. rhere, gentlemen :re the British gen '207 niter.."'.!-,;-:"" r r '■•■""'■'". c. i 01 ^our countrymen, be sure Ln^. drew. ^ ^'"^' abruptly with, «'»;andM'ey„,oud,p,„es J i T \ '"''^ '--f'hesamenJinKlp' ' "''"'"•'- under-wood are nlcuv of .1 '^ , '""«'' ""^ -e found very reW If ;r"r ""'"■" '■^■'' -'^ having p,„,,,,,,,,;°;y;--033 .1,0 lak.^^ ''-^ket of provision,, we ,e , '"'^"'' '""'^ ' ^^-- voyage la.ed s vlal dV:. "" ' " '""■ ^■'"''• ^freeable than bcin/ ,' ' '"'' "'^'^ '"r more f>-''-.-dava.e ::,'^:r'^-''-. fur we landed freauen.l., . r " """'"'' : --grefreshj :td^''^."''^"'--'P■°- f^ V '"e people. M" .l^l'^^;;;^ -^e of f^™ Louses .ha. skirt, I,.,., , '"= ^""«<=J 3« wretched iog-houses ■■' ""= '"Ae. Many „(■ y o' these N ^'^^t are scarcely a defen ce against IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 /. /./ /. % & %' 1.0 I.I !f-IIIM IIIIIM 2.0 1.8 II.25 il.4 mil 1.6 V] <^ /a 'm A ■e, ^j>*/ '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 L>f)8 the weather, and so badly supplied with any thin^ eatable^ tbat we could scl(b)in obtain niiik, eggs, oi even bread. At night, wc generally wrapt our- selves in our blankets, and lav down on the ca!)in floor. This mode ot slccpinii is not vcrv comiort- able, till use has reconciled it; but whcii 1 am well tired in the dav, I am not disturbed bv the hardness oi my bed. At Ticonderoga we enjoyed, v.iih double relish, the comforts ot a good inn, the oniv dwelling house in the place. The agreeable accom- modations arise from the good management ol th-e jTiistres>>, who is always the active person, whilst the husband minds his farm or other occupations. The ruins of the old fort and barracks, arc to be seen on the top of a ri-sing ground just behind the tavern ; but they are in such a state of dectiy as to be of no use, nor is there any probability of ly pi )i their being repaired. There are the remains ( another fort at Ciown Point, which has also been i hit demolished. Some oi the ditches are, ho' periect ; which, with the ruined buildings, grown with dilFcrent shrubs, particularly combined with a view oi the lake aiul the d mountains rising beyojid it, have a fine This prospect was rendered still .!iiore pictur to us by a huge birch canoe tuli ot Indians, dresses ot their nation. Their skins were paii various colours, and in the most whimsical ner : one leg of the same man was white, the other was daubed with .cjrecn : his bod vevcr, ■ ^''g' over- f\'t ' ivy, /ilty listant "Sjje elfccr. hs u ea(jUC P'JCc in tin: tile u' ited ol UWux nidn- foa b W h 1 1 -S< \vdfcr, y wa> criccrj bri^i'.t ' "Al 0' tliinj; JdS, 01 It our- [le ca bin 2()9 bright yellow, and his lace lull of red s{)Ot^ ; and, to give his countcnar.ce the ,^rea:c>t possible Heice- cre ot different colours. '1 he ness, IIS eyes u :om tort- am w(:i bavdn oj «M! V.M the oniy le accom others had indulged their taste \viih the sair.e iire- Siilaritv : and all were adorned witli leathers, horse- iMir •mgs, and bracelets; and to complete tneir a! Lire, eacn carne'.i a sma 1 look ing-glciss, wliicl ■J J was otteri eonsu Ited, rA in order to loneli up the ent o )n, ^^^ i the 'P faded col ours, or a dju.t ineir ornaments. In the course of our vo)\!gc wc were frequently lUi^t 'aie( w itli macinificent lanasca-jes tiom the lJ rations. , are to SI be List e o bebin id lores, ot hanging woods, rocks, and mountains ; hich in the evcninix recei'ved a rich LZiow from ,\ I the reflection of i!ie setting sun, that at the same ecav lime iiiic led th e curling w iters ot the }al;e. Thi litv of I ^^'^g^^^ ^^ Lake Champlain is ^^n hundred and twenty miles, and its breadth from two to eighteen. )b ability remains ot s also Iso been In the widest part are a great number of islands : the largest ot them is called South Hero, and contains f;ve hundred inhabitants. The broad lake reaches hity miles, and terminates in a large river, named Sorelle, which is lost in the mighty St, Lawrence, if > ei'cct. I ^'■'^ waters are of great depth, and the shore in many places m.ountainous and rocky. Tlie splashing oi: !u; I '''^ waters into their chasms, makes an uncommon, however, ings, ovcr^ lularly ivy, tlie di>tant L^icturescjvi^ nans, in t ep aintec lot dlow, murmuring noise, when the wind rises iSl cat "^^'11- to a b recze. Some of the rocks shelve under the bite, vvi body |,flv,;|\vafer, at no great depm beneatii it, as we expert ath r wa- us brini c:ic(;d by a sudden shock, whi:h convinced ul-nat out boat had struck on one of them. All wa>* N 3 confusioti 270 coiif^ision in a moment, and every one of un f o bliVf'J igf'd to help to dismgage ner ; in winch we suc- ceeded, with no greater misfortune than a thorough drenching — a circumstance tliat obliged us to get asliurc at the first hoL'se that would receive us. It was the dwelling of a plain Scotch labourer, who also performed the functions ot a judge. Having passed the boundary that separates the United States frotn the British dominions, we reached a garrison town, called St. John's, whither the Indian party had arrived betore us. With them we perceived a middle-aged European, whose lan- guishing, harassed countenaiK"e, had somethifig peculiarly interesting in it ; especially, as with the traces of grief, was a mixture of calm resignation painted on his face. Mr. Franklin was so struck vvifh his appearance, that he sat down amongst them, and insinuated himself into their favour. The stranger seemed pleased with his attentions, but did not appear very communicative, till an oppor- tunity occurred of conversing in private ; when he related his history, which is so long it must be deferred to a future letter. Adieu. May every happiness attend you. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. to ] int( ten nioj tJOll that I' I moi circ sonc i till chie thin< His t;) pr and titnc relaicc LETT IK 27 1 le Ol U:4 I we suc- iborough us to get ^e us. It urer, wUo a rates the [lions, wc 's, wliither 'vVith them whose lati- someihlng as with the resignation IS so struck 'n amongst ;avour. The ntions, but I an oppor- -ate ; \^'hen it niust be May every iLETON. LETTER XXXII. Mr. II. Franklin to Edidn Middhlon. \t. Jolm's, on lake Chawplain. Mv DEAR KnwiN, TMERE is no occasion to have recourse to novels or feigned tales, in order to amuse and interest, whilst the occurrences of real life arc of- ten so iiill of extraordinary accidents, and contain more instruction than the fictions of the iniagina. tion*. Arthur mentioned, in his last, a white man that we met witli amongst a party of Indians. It proved to be a merchant, who resided at Rich- ond in Virgiria, but, from a train of unfortunate m( circumstances, had fallen into their hands as a pri» soner. A settled distress was marked on his face, till he perceived I gained the confidence of the chief who commanded the expedition, when some- thing like hope began to animate his listless frame. His master did not watch him wiih such jealousy as t;) prevent him from telling mc his unhappy storv, aiul intercstino: me in his fate. It fianpcned, s pp( ;ome tisne ago, that he was obliged to go to Kentucky, LETTl.K * 'I'lio principal circuins;tances of this narrative are facts rcUited by the Duke de l\c)ch<:foucuult Liaiicourt. N to 1272 to receive some money that was clue to liim. lie was accompanied by a friend, who was a land- holder in Kentucky. I'lipy proceeded together to the banks of the Great Kenhaway, where ihcy met with several other persons, who were also go- ing to Kentucky. They joined company, and pur- chased bctwe^'n them one of those slight, large, i]at-bottomed vessels, without any deck, that are used merely to descend the Ohio, but are not sufh- cientlv substantiril to remount the stream. Haviiior embarked with their merchandise and stores, thev proceeded on the voyage, working the vessel them- selves. 'riu:ir company consisted of six persons: ilSJpYmen, and two young women, who were sisters, and going to settle, under the protection of a rela- tion, at Kentucky. They were all fully aware that ih& navigation of the Oliio is not (rce from danger from the Indians ; but they also knew that an attack on a vessel in the midst of the stream is very rare, and that such an attempt, with so many on board, had not been heard oi for many years. Confiding in their numbers, they proceeded, without anxiety, an hundred and six miles, when, about day break, they were alarmed by the most dreadful shrieks, proceeding from two white men on the shore ; who told them, with the most affecting tone of grief, that they had been taken prisoners by the Indians, and had made their escape, but feared again to fall into their hands. They said they had not eaten any thing for the last four days, and entreated, if they .1, and act ( ancc circ: dene men moui Mons creas and 'is cc liiey r strearr stone Wiio ^ous, s consec to ware i-aggi, cou.c ^.•.' V'-s 27:j im. He ; a land- together lerc tbcy z also go- , and pur- Jit, large, , that are I not sufU- . Having ores, they :s^el them- ^ persons : eie sisters, \ of a rela- awarc that om danger at an attack J very rare, oa hoard, Confiding iut anxiety, day break, ;ul shrieks, ihorc ; who rould not be taken on board, to be at least supplied with some provision, and saved from perishing by hunger. T!iat humaniv, wincii i:; implanted ia every breast, pleaded in ihcir favour \vith all on board ; till a little furth.er consideration induced 1 those of nu), and expres- .f of g lie Mons ot agonizing anguish and despair still in- creasing, one of the passengers ofTered to go a'one, and can r bread to these miserable sufferers, it 1 is companions would put him on the land; allcdg- mg, that he should discern the Indians from alar, if they made their appearance ; that in this case, tlie vessel miglu easily regain the middle of the stream ; and that he should be able to reach Lime- stone on foot, wnere they mitint wai t f or im, he Indians, Who could resist this proposal, so noble, so gene- rous, so full of humanity ? Those who feared the I'Tain to fall Iconsequences were obliged to yield. Tliey steered )t eaten any Ited, if they [towards the shore, where the two sufi'crers were agging themselves along, as if tormented by the could N most II. 274 most excruciating pains. How lamentable, th.ut generous compassion should ever be abused! The apprehensions of the two gentlemen who opposed the measure were but too well founded. The men were two traitors, under the direction of the Indians, and appointed by them to decoy the ves- sel to the shore. The Ir Jians followed them at some distance, constantly concealing themselves behind trees. The moment the vessel reached the shore, they burst forth, about twenty-five or thirty :n number, raised a dreadful howl, and fired on the affrighted passengers ; two of whom were killed by the first firing, and the rest, in equal terror and astonishment, endeavoured to regdin the middle of the stream ; but being too near the shore, and their dexterity checked by a ^ense of danger, they made but TtiiL way. 1 Le Indians continued to fire. A man and one ot the young women had already fallcij ViCtims ; another man was wound- ed, and two horses were killed. Mr. Martin, (th name of my new acquaintance,) and two others only, were left to use their exertions to save them selves. The fury of the savages increased with their hopes of success. Some threw themselves 'into the river, and swam towards the ship ; those who remained on shore threatened to repeat their fire, if the passengers made the least resi ance, and levelled their pieces at them. Ihe swimmers succeeded in bringing the r.hip on shore and my unfortunate friend and his compani om tim; Mc part! who not sex. read^ the I back it off coat dian wci; , - k. i o ble, thst dl The opposed ^d. The )n of the I the ves- i them at nemselves cached the e or thirty red on the e killed hy terror and s middle of shore, and anger, they I jntinued to omen had vas vvound- lartin, ^the two others save them- rcased with themselves ship ; those to repea'. least resi^ them. '^ hip onsho companic wore ohligcd to land, under the continued howls of the Indians ; which, however, were no longer the accents of rage, hut sliouts of joy, on account of the seizure of their prey. The Indians ofTcred tiiem their hands, which in some measure allayed their apprehensions. Whilst some of their new masters were saluting their prisoners, and leading thcni from the shore, the rest were employed in. landing the merchandise and stores. Some cut wood, and a fire was 'presently made. The articles found in the ship were carried to the fire, as well as the bodies of the two unfortunate persons who bad been shot : these they completely stripped of their clothes, scalped them, and thew them into- the river. The scalps were dried by the fire, to increase the trophies of the tribe. To express the horror of the surviving sister, or of Mr. Martin,. (v;hose particular friend had been one of the vic- tims,) at this dreadful sight, is impossible. Mr.. Martin and his two male companions were next partly stripped, according to the caprice of those- who were near them. The young woa>;in was- not touched, perhaps from repect to the female sex. Mr. Martin's coat and waistcoat were al- ready pulled off, and half his shirt ; when one of the Indians, with an air of authority, gave him. back his shirt, and reproved him who was taking", it off: he gave him also a blanket, instead ot his coat and waistcoat. They provided him with In- dian shoes, made of deer-skins, in exchange fur his N 6 own,, ■■;■ 27G own, wliich, witli the rest of the cloilies, was achled to thcr b(7ofv. The Indians \sc\c now about sc- vcnty in iiinnbcr, amongst whum were several women. Their leader assembled them around the fire, and, liolding the tomahawk in hi-; hand, ad- dressed them in a long speech, which he delivered with great fluency, with gestures and a tone of en- thusiasm ; looking frequently up to heaven, or cast- ing his eyes down to the ground ; and pointing, now to the prisoners — now to the river. The Indians, who listened to him with the utmost attention, expressed their applause with accents of deep, mournful exclamation. The booty was divided among the different tribes which shared in this enterprise. The tribe of the Shawanese received three prisoners, Mr. Martin, the young woman, and another of the passengers: the other fell to the lot of the Chcrokees, and was afterwards burnt by them. Every prisoner was given to the charge of an Indian, who was answerable for his person. They were not prevented from the solace of con- versing with each other. The two men who had decoyed them on shore now rejoined the Indians, and were severely re- proached by those who had been the wretched vic- tims of their dissimulation. They pleaded that they had been compelled to act so, on pain of death. They said tliat they had been surprised by the Indians six months belore, and had been seve- ral times emplo}eG on these treacherous expe- dii sc un by an< chi bo^ trei pos \\\\\ fast whi tion rest two Som serv T alon was ord begi to d pow men refu join soul c ions- '277 (lltions. The 8tor'»s found on board the vc>;cl served the Indians i'or their njeals, in wliich ihi-y generally allon-ed the ptisoncrs to pail.ile. Niglu coming on, every one lay down to rest under the trees. The prisoners were surrounded hy the tribes to udiieh they were each ailoited, and singly guarded by the Indians wlio had the charge o\ ihetn. Mr. Martin was tied by the cl- , bows, and the ends of the rc^pes were fastened to I trees, wliieh stood far r.sunder, so that it was im- I possible for him to lie down ; yet they did not I think this a sufficient security. Another rope, fastened to a tree, was tied round his neck, from which a rattle was suspended, iliat on the least mo- tion would have awakened the whole troop. The rest were treated nearly in the same manner. The two white spies enjoyed the most perfect liberty. Somelndians were stationed on the outside, to ob- serve what was passing in the surrounding country. The next morning, the Indians who were posted along the banks of the Ohio, reported that a vessel was dropping down th.e river. The prisoners were ordered to join the other two, who only yesterday beguiled them, in exerting their utmost endeavours retched vie- 1 ^^ decoy the passengers in the ship on shore. How powerlul is the fear ot instant death ! — a punrsii- ment with which they were threatened in case of refusal or disobedience. They complied, and joined their hardened companions in a crime their erous expe-|Souls abhorred. Mr. Martin, however, though compelled is adiled )out se- several M.\nd the and, ad- lelivercd ne of en- i,or cast- ting, now I Indians, attention, of deep, as divided •ed in this ic received voman, and fell to the ards burnt the charge his person, ace of con- cm on shore severely re 278 W' i\ compelled, for the preservation of his own life, to accoriMnny the rest, fiimly determined not to be guilty of occasioning the slavery, or probable death, of the unsuspcciing passengers on board, by any voluntary action; and ronsequently, nei- either to make the smallest gesture, nor to speak a word. Nor was there occa -on ior his eliorts. His conipariions, less refined in their feelings, exerted themselves to the uimoht to excite the compassion ol those on board, who, without the least hesitation, stood in towards the shore, to suc- cour and rescue from slavery those whom they thought unfortunate captives. Scarcely had they approached wiuun a small distance from the shore, when the Indians, who had s'.olen along behind the bushes, hastened up, fired, and ;:,t.ot the six persons on board. Shouts ol victory succeeded to the howls of barbarous rage. The vessel was haul- ed on shore ; and two of the ill-fated victims, who were not quite dead, were immediately dispatched by the tomahawk. The six scalps were toraoffand dried, and the bcjty divided as before, but with fewer formalities. The scouts soon after made signals that three other vessels were in sight. The same stratagem was attempted, but in vain. The passengers were too wary to be decoyed out ol th' n course. They were, however, so much pai.ic-siruck as to aban- don one of their vessels, which was Uden with stoics SI V fr ri Ir T- so CO be j lia ale lay the son ed gus upc and ble, po^ ' tri' ^ ca I in^ • sta the upo the Cihe the sue 279 stores and other valuable articles, belonging to se- veral families who had emigrated, in company, from Virginia, to settle in Kentucky. This was a rich booty. Without distributing the whole, the Indians fixed eagerly on some casks of whiskey. They drank so largely, that most of tlicm were soon intoxicated. Six or seven, to whom was committed the charge of guaiding the booty, had been ordered, at the beginning of these Bacchan- lian revels, to drink with moderation ; and they alone retained the use of their senses. All ihe rest lay buried in a profound sleep; and among them, the leader of the party and the guards of the pri- soners. Mr. Martin's mind was too deeply affect- ed by his dreadful situation to partake of this dis- gusting banquet. Totally absorbed in reflecting upon the dangers and miseries that threatened him, and anxiously desirous of avoiding them, if possi- j ble, he conceived, that whilst the Indians were over- \ powered by the effects of the liquor, he might con- ' trivc a means of escape. This idea he communi- cated to one of his fellow sufferers, who was ly- I ing by his side. The vessels were fastened to s that three ^ stakes along the shore, at a small distance from ne stratagem i them. The success of their attempt depended cngers were upon their stealing thither unobserved, throwing ursc. They themselves into the first vessel they should find, as to aban- (ihe night being very dark,) and abandoning her to luJen witii tj-j^, stream. If they reached the vessel in safety, stoiesh success seemed as certain, as instant death if they n life, to not to be probable board, by uly, nei- to speak a us et forts, r feelings, excite the vithoui the )re, to suc- vhom they IV had they n the shore, ong behind J. 01 the six ucceeded to el was haul- ictims, who ^ dispatched toraoffand e, but with 580 < tlicy should be discovered. The hopes that this scheme had kindled were soon destroyed ; for thougli tlicy spoke in such a low tone of voice as seemed hardly possible to have been overheard by an Indian, who lay al e remainder of the troop, to follow juore slowly. Is wuh the A jout twelve the troop halted. The game killed by t!iL' huntsmen was dressed ; and the lime ot their halt- Kig was frequently determined by the success ot the c!:ace. They smoked their pipes before and af'er mcs, which lilinner, and then set out again to pursue their jour- were jtiey, until about an hour before night-fall. At this itne they stopped to cat their evening meal ; thcu usually urth day the that the ex- cach tribe 282 usually smoked a pipe, in profound silence ; and if irds lav d( hid( D( tfu atterwaras lay down to rest on hides, uuring trie march, some Indians, generally the huntsmen, formed a kind of van-guard, and others brought up the rear, at some distance, to watch whether the troop was pursued; for the Indians are as mis- trustful as they are vigilant. The main body marched without any regularity. The van-guard seemed charged, in particular, with the care of looking for game ; no more of which they killed than was required for the next meal. The women cook the iood ; having cut it in large pieces they put it on stakes driven into the ground ; but on lighting tiieir fires they are careful not to en^ danger the neighbouring trees. The prisoners took the advantage of the liberty i •; 3 :he iv 10 u the jibe f vvo con d'Mi iiiex t!;at 'his I 'assoi iand ■hens I this i of keeping constantly together. Their melanchol) conversation breathed despair, in consequence of having missed the last favourable opportunity of escape; though not wholly unmixed with hope, that some unlookcd for accident would present them with another. Some mistrust was at length entertained at their keeping so close to eacli other, which was increased by Mr. Martin's inadvertently drawing from his pocket a knife, \yliich he had carefully preserved, for the purpose o cutting the ropes with which he was tied at night, it any i^ vourable opportunity should offer. This occa . itncn sioned their bein2 again searched, and finally strip-' ^ creting any thing that might facilitate their escape^ ^ Inste: liCSS, he d guile lance pain solec sonei fer di capti as m« Tl^ ichcai 283 instead of the clothes that had been taken from them, they were supplied with short aprons, tied round their hips, and reaching half way down their thighs. But in order eflfectually to deprive them of the power of concerting measures for regaining their liberty, the chiet ordered the troop to separate into two divisons, and one of the two prisoners to ac- company each. Fellowship in misfortune had en- he care oi I , , , , , , , ; d'Mred them to each other, and the separation was ['inexpressibly painful to both. Mr. Martin felt ; that his companion in adversity was his support, Ihis hope, and the only being with whom he could I associate; yet he was deprived of this last resource, land for a time gave himself up to grief and appre- I'hension. But a wise man does not long remain in ^^ / '.this situation. Being blessed with an innate firm- melancholy - ^ isequence of portunity oi \ with hope, ould present u'as at length o each other, inadvertently hich he had ) cutting the nee ; and )uring the huntsmen, s brought h whether are as mis- main body van-guard le c they The women pieces they nd ; but on not to en- ncss, self-possession, and cheerfulness of temper, ^he determined to overcome his feelings, and be- jguile the mistrust of his masters by an appear- tance of serenity. Though the hideous image of a painful death often impressed his mind, he con- jsoled himself with the thought, that not every pri- ^jSoner is irrevocably doomed by the Indians to suf- fer death; but that sometimes they employ their captives to assist them in hunting, or adopt them las members of their tribes. it. if any i^* n^, r , ... * ^ I 1 he sameness ot the remaining journey was not This occa.l , . Ichcquered by any remarkable events. 1 he marches finally stnp-l , , . , ' rvcre longer or shorter, in proportion to the game hem ro • -^^ killed, to the duration of their sleep at noon, t their escape j ^ ^^^ Inste ^84 and cd I hou deni and to the dcliglit they found in their pipes. Buc their length especially depended on the will of the chief, and the advice ot the conjurors. Their dreams trcquenily alter the direction ol their journeys. Ignorance and superstition go hand in hand, amongst the people of all countries. Mr. Martin was treated very capriciously, and soRjetirncs heatcn without any cause. On one oi these occasions his patience lorsook him, and he returned the blows, with the approbation of the whole troop. They said he had proved himself a a man, and that none but women submitted to such treatment without opposition. From that time he thought he was treated with more respect. In the course of their journey, they met a negro laden with whiskey. He was the slave of an Indian, who was hunting in the woods, and had commis- sioned him to sell the liquor. The negro soon sold his whole stock, and followed the troop,, waiting for his master. The Indians halted soon after to enjoy their Vv'hiskey with more ease, and to pre- pare for their entrance into Sandusky, which was distant but a few day's journey, by touching up their colours; each being at liberty to paint himself according to his fancy, except that they all, men and women, wear a certain mark, the bad-Je ot their tril)c, on their breast or arms: that of th^^ Shawanese is a wolf. The troop was soon joined I. ^ by the ncgio's master, and shortly alter by two other Indiana, who took Mr, Martin by the hand, at:ii pres deli' hop( (iGStl face I liC s and supp jlast, ^told i 'now I \Mmo fliirni! m hit Mv; t>revai ,>l:isk f^rison Jj the i''' <{ f e fti^T, cc ch i He J (ia' stely, )CS. B Ui vill oi" the 9i Tl leii oi' their hand in o es, )US ly^ and 285 and conducted him to the chief, whom thev scctn- cd to address in a sujipliant manner. After an hour's conversation, ot which Mr. Martin was evi- dently the subject, and after the petitioners had presented two gallons of whiskey, Mr. Martin was delivered to them, and carried off. Every rav of hope now vanished: he gave himself up to certain On one oi destruction he d ired not. fo r some time, as] his fdte of the negro, who understood English, lest he m and he j.^. should betrav him. He moved tion o f tl le d himself a Lted to such on in silence and secret despair; but being no longer able to support the torturing idea ot uncertainty, he at last, with great timidity, applied to the neL',ro, who told him, that one of the two Indians to whom he Ir.ow belonged, had some time ago killed one of the met a ncgiol j>^jj^g^^j tribe, and by their laws, he was b')und to L)ianlndian,l|| idt time he ect. ro comm soon 18- SO Id iirnish a person instead of the one he had slain, or pc himself surrendered to the vengeance of his fa- jtiiily; that being too poor to buy a prisoner, he had op, w^'^^^SI t);evailed on the Shawanesc, by entieaties and the on alter ^^ jtljsl^ey, to make him ?i prcFcnt of their new taken and to P'^^'lJ^risoncr : and that, therefore, he now belonged to which was the Mingues, to whom he wouJd be delivered i;p touching ^M^lj;i ,. few days. The prospect of slavery was pi cas. )aint hiiTiself lii'T, compared with the dread of torture and death. sc\'e |iey all, "^^'^kliich he had had Ct)nstantly before his eyes, le badge o^lj Mejourneved on with his new masters for ays, in tiie same manner as with tlie former, soon joinea|..^^,pj, ^j^,^^ |,^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^j^^j ^j. ^\g\^^^ Unfortu- that of th^^^-i j| ifter by tw the hand. tely, they fell in with the Siiawanese again; and tnc 'V 286 and the chief, become sober, regretted liis lorincr generosity ; and being the stronger, from the num. bcrs that accompanied him, compelled theMingoes to resign Mr. Martin to his former misery and anx. iety. Some days after they met an Indian driving a; horse laden with whiskey, belonging to a tribe rt*. siding farther to the eastward. The desire v\ another revel induced the chief to exchange hi: prisoner for a cask of that intoxicating liquor. He was once more consigned to a new master, whc i ... ' tresi employed him in assisting in the chace : and after I ^ . . . . , , . , , . of o suflR sal po abj phi the ma mit Ih. affb hunting some time in the woods, carried him to his town, that bordered on the eastern side o: Lake Ontario. Here he had passed several months | in captivity, occupied in menial offices, though he was not treated with severity. Having gained tLe confidence of his masters, by his docility and in j dustry, he had prevailed on them to suffer him tu| accompany them on a trading expedition to Si John's, in hopes that he might meet with soro person who would sympathise with his misfor tunes, and redeem him from the slavery undcf which he groaned. I could not hear this affecti; reciidl without attempting to deliver him ; but had rendered himself so useful to his employer that, after many proposals that were rejected, I a|l ^,j most despaired of success. At length I prevaile by the inihience of a box of paints, several burW , died silver buttons, with other silver trinkets, aJ,^? • two casks of rum. To express the gratitude arij satisfacti pleaj 2S7 :iis loriTic: I the num- leMingoe y and anx. n driving ai a tribe rcl . desire ol satisfaction that were shown by Mr. Martin is im- possible. I advanced him a sum of money to en- able him to make the best of his way to Philadel- phia, where he has relations, who are persons of the first respectability ; and as he appears to be a man of worth, 1 have no doubt of receiving re- mittances from him, to reimburse me for what change ^- j j have expended on his account. The days which liquor, « . jffQj-cl such opportunities of succouring the dis- naster, w i \ ^j-g^ggj^ should be reckoned amongst the happiest » ^" ^ ■ of our lives. May you enjoy many of them, and ried nuTi suffer none to escape, without tasting the exquisite tern side o: pi^ajuj-e they afford. veralmonth| . Your's, Sec. s, though kj ■ H.FRANKLIN. ng gained tlie ility and in- suffer him w edition to S et with soiT.f 1 his misioi- lavery «n^^j r this affeciirp r him ; but his employer rejected, 1 ^ rth 1 prevaile several hurj er trinkets, ai I gratitude ai satisfactii^l , ^y^ LETTER XXXIIL Arthur Midclleton to his Brother Ed\y:iii Hud >ccu\ My DEAR Edwin, THE country around St. John's is flat, and almost destitute of trees, from a dreadful fire which destroyed the woods tor miles, and has ren- dered firing very scarce. ^ft*. 2S Ui ^■>. We set rut from tliis place in a light waggon, which carried us through a picturesque country, by the town oi Chambiy, adorned with a fine old castle, built by the French, to La Prarie, a small place, wliere wc exchanged our vehicle for a bateau, in which we esibarked for Montreal. A bateau is a flat-bottomed boat, with sharp ends, particularly adapted to the stormy lakes and riveis of America. i^ince wc left St. John's, the face of things bears qiiife a different aspect, and it is easy to perceive that we have entered a new territory. The British flag; soldiers on duty; the French inhabitants running about in their red night-caps ; the children saluting you at the doors ; (a custom never ob- served in the United States;) the improved appear- ddi an( SUt] low Mill evej larh i used been that i roofs shing two a hviih s is a SI in.l;' waggon, :ountry, fine old a small le for a ireal. A irp ends, nd rivcis \ 2S« ings witliin the wall:; arc composed of a compacf, fldrk-colouicd limestone, which whitens in the fire, and becomes greyish when exposed to the air and sun : those in the subuibs are chiefly wood. The lower part ot the town, where most oi the shops arc ! situated, has a gloomy aspect, especially towards evening, when the doors and windows are regu- larly shut up with sheet. iron shutters, a precaution , I used against fire — an accident that has so often nffs bears \ been attended here with dreadful consequences, nerceivc ; ' iliat the inhabitants, who can afford it, cover the 1 e British ! roofs of their houses with tin plates, instead of habitants j| shingles. The streets are narrow, but there are children jP^o open squares ; and the town is cmbellislied over ob- 1 P^'^^^ several churches and convents. The cathedral 1 aopear- %^^ ^ spacious edifice, and has five richly decoratccJ , churches jal-ars : the doors are always open ; and numbers ^>i liiars , jpt-'ople frequent it to pay their private devotions, when there is no public worship performed. Or.e lunday that wc attended the celebration oi higii lass, the crowd was so great, that the steps on tlie- lutside were covered with people, who conunued nceling, with their hats off, during the service. It lappened that there was a grand tuneral at this ns ; ide ; and, ' guage from It tor these belonged to to the ^H- nhabited by Wowed tlcU'"Ji"ch, at the time of our stay in the town. A ~|umbcr of priests accompanied it, chaunting nada. It ^s" in the rivcti ,a\ls,tbougii The build- w rayers, followed by little boys in white robes Md black, caps, with wax lights in their hands. hese are the usual ceremonies for all whose re- [lions can afiford to pay for them. The inhabitants ii\^\ O are 290 Cham] to liavi instcac straggl subjcc to the 1 -^uu nnd live in sucn „e V,vely. poV.tc and -- «=;; ,^ ,,,, ,n re ♦ V,at voil WOUUl suppose unw/ '"T^Cuand 01 Montreal U t.cn.y-e.g - hted. Ihe U ^^^ ,,,eral mountams. The miles long, "n it ar ^.j^aed with neat ^- °^ r '"'td Prt; X: and us s,do. country Louses, and pretty g ^ ^^___.. -%--te:::nt't;Cuttry"::sts upL t. e.,^ prod.g.ou extent ^^^^^^^^^ ^,„j,„„ „„,_ , f ^'' rrono s:;nowstheriver s.oot.ly p thic through It. on on jou, rapids above bstonis on, after passing down the tren>c ^ ^^^^ ^.,L the town, where tt .s ^-"^'^ ,, .-.ae. : t afte thunder, over hug^ roc s. ^^^^l^^^^,,^,^,^, .„ ,„; ,cen the town. "'",i-pi„g under «s ruinc ..v, v glittering spires, and the sliippmb m ^_. walls. . , • „ formed the resolution oioint o M. Franklin -ving f -j ^,^^ ^„^^ 1,„,,, passing the winter at Qucbc . M^ |^_^^ Ling pretty niuch advance jega ^^ ^^ f ^_ ^ on board a bateau. =°'"'7, ,^„ , he river slcl th. stretched over hoops, and sai ed do- ^^^1^, Lawrence. For several >-g-; *>.';, hUcI naiu , V c^. Ave SO numerous, that u I. J* £'06' as it falls, which they refine by boiling till it is ted into iIFk converted into sugar, and a sutticient quantity is procured to nearly supply the inhabitants, who sel- dom use aiiv other. Manufactures not being yet arrived at great per- fection, the imports from Europe chiefly consist in earthenwdre, haidware, the more elegant articles of household furniture, stationery, leather, grocer}-, wines, and spirits : in return for these things, the Canadians export furs in immense quantities, wheat, flour, flax seed, pot-ash, timber, slaves, and lumber, dried fish, oil, ginsing, and various mcdi- ^jicinal drugs. A considerable portion of the lands in Lower Canada is in the possession ol seigniors, who may be compared to thriving farmers in England ; but the peasants, who cultivate their estates, are their ▼assals, and, in many respects, are dependent upon them. When the country was yielded to England, it was agreed that the Roman Catholic religion should continue to be the profession of the people at large ; consequently, convents, nuns, and friars, with tliC other peculiarities of a catholic country, are to be 5cen here in all their formalities : amontrst others, gst by the roac huge wooden crucifixes are common side, some of them richly ornamented and painted. The superstitious people call them B-ons DicuX; and pull off their hats and make a reverend obeis- ance tQ these posts, at which I cannot forbear smiling ; the ^ mobj in rJ skilil selv thro I violf secrl to pi 297 • till it is uantity is , who seU great p< consist in nt articles r, grocery, hings, the quantities, slaves, and ioLis mcdi- s in Lower s, who may gland ; but es, are their indent upon England, it gion should >ple at large; irs, with ilic y, are to be Dngst others, by the road and painted. B-ons DicuX; ^erend obcis- nnot forbear smiling ; smiling; though my good friend reproves me for it, by saying that I ought to respect, the inten- tion ot the most absurd act of devotion, and pity the ignorance of the devotee. Tiie feaiaie French peasants are generally very pretty ; and their beauty is improved by the taste- fulness of tbf ir summer dress. Most of them wear a boddice of b uc or scaJet, without sleeves, a petticoat of a different colour, and a straw hat. 1 hey look old early, waich is attributed to their working too hard, their husbands leaving many fatiguing enjployments to tliem ; but to make them amends, tiiev arc persons of great consequence in the family, fur a Canadian never makes a bargain whhout consulting his wife ; which probably arises from the superior learning of the women, as they are better taught than the men, who seldom are able to read or write. Both sexes are generally very cheerful, and are fond of dancing and singing, which are favourite amusements, even amongst the lower classes. I believe that the men are the mobt dexterous managers of bateaux in the world, m rapid rivers. But for our confidence in the skill 01 the boatman, we should have given our- selves up at the strong current that hurried us through the midst of large rocks with prcci];it;Ue violence, just as we approached Montreal. \' V c seonied every moment on the point oi being dashed to pieces. They, however, brought us safe over. The canoes that are used on the river St. Law- O A rencc » u,- 29S rence are curiously constructed of the bark of the birch tree, whicli grows to a very large size in the more northern part of the country. This bark re- sembles that of the cork tree, and is so flexible, it may be rolled up like a piece of cloth ; so that the Indians, when they go a hunting, provide them- selves with some of it, to make a covering for a temporary hut. The canoes are formed with ribs made of thick, tough rods, covered with this bark, and are of different sizes; some of them holding one man only, and others twenty. Unless people are used to these frail vessels, they are easily over- set; for they are so light, that two men are not over- loaded by carrying one, of a moderate size, on their shoulders ; and so swift, that they leave the best keel-boat behind them. The most common carriage in Lower Canada is a calash, which is a sort of one-horse chaise, that holds two people, besides the driver, who sits on a box placed over the foot-board. On each side of the carriage is a little door, which serves as an en- trance, and, when shut, is convenient to prevent any thing from falling out. The harness is clum- sy, studded with brass nails, and decorated with small bells, that make a most disagreeable jingle. During tfie gcvere frosts, sledges are frequently used, and form a favourite diversion. They are of two kinds, covered and open : the covered sledge is like the body of a chariot, covered all over with fur, and put upon two iron runners, shaped like a pail pa CO hai gei the are abii sue ace app lion 1 mor abro My and 1 is w are mod V cxtn to SI Uni in N and of and Thi hav( '-nd ^ ^09 pair of skate? ; the open sledge varies in shape, ac- cording to the state ol the owner, and is often very handsomely decorated. Those belonging to thi; gentry are drawn by one or two horses, placed like those in a tendem ; and the ladies who ride in them are generally dressed superbly, in the most valu- able furs. These sledges glide over the snow with such swiftness and so little noise, that, io prevent accidents, they are obliged to give notice oi their approach, by bells attached to the harness, or by a horn sounded before them. Though the cold is so intense, I do not suffer more from it than I did in England; for when I go abroad I am covered from head to foot with fur. My cap is so contrived that nothiug but my eyes and nose is to be seen; and every part of our hous2 is warmed with stoves. Our doors and windows are double; so that no cold air can enter to incom- mode us. The heat and cold are both felt in the :ach side ot y extreme in Canada; but the climate is not subject es as an en- f^, ^^ch sudden changes, In the same day, as in the L to prevent United States. The snow generally begins to fall ess is clum- ' rk of the ze in the | i bark re- sxible, it that the ide them- ing for a with ribs this bark, m holding ess people asily over- e not over- ;e, on their ,ve the best Canada is chaise, that ho sits on a corated with sable jingle, e frequently They are of )vered sledge all over with shaped like a pail in November, when it is disagreeably cold and raw, and the sky is dark and lowering: by tlie middle of December the sky clears, and the frost sets in ; and for six weeks there is seldom any alteration. This is the season of gaiety and pleasure, as we have most agreeably experienced. Music, danc- ing, skating, and social parties, enliven every day, -nd make us disregard the cold and the snow. 6 D unni 300 !l During this long frost, we returned, in a sledge, to Montreal. We were three days on the road ; but we were wrapped in our fur pelisses, and defied the rigours of the northern sky. The weather was remarkably clear ; the roads as hard as a rock ; and the frost on the trees glittered like a forest of dia- monds. We glided as swift as an arrow, and on our arrival were welcomed by our friends with that warmth oi heart and sociability that renders every place charming. In this pleasing society we have passed the winter ; but a rapid change, that has within a few days taken place, warns us that our departure is not very distant. The snow has dis- appeared; the fields, clothed with the richest ver- dure, bear the appearance of spring ; and the trees already disphTy a beautitul foliage of fresh tints. Montreal is the grand mart for the fur trade ; the skins of various animals, collected by the Indi- thither, from a vast distar 'g ight » i It ]i( br on fc< an in 8L1J cat pec hei, dre wit pile soir. A con joui pos along rivers and lakes, and then are transported to f boj Kurope. I have bespoke a fine black bear-skin, to j by make a muff for my mother, which I hope she will i the, wear for mv sake. I'he skins of beavers, otteis, wel martins, and wild cats, are called fine peltry; but fhosc cargoes are termed mixed peltry, when, wich the finer sorts, are packed wolves, foxes, buffaloes d<-'cr, and bears. - * . " One of our rides was to the » *ver Monlmoretui, that unites with the St. Lawrence, about sevc;i miles below Oaebec. The country through vvhicii we o cl of mo sen! lasM pasi It sledge, to oad ; but nd defied eather was rock ; and 2st of dia- ^v, and on IS with that ders every ty we have e, that has us that our )W has dis- richest ver- ind the trees esh tints. c fur trade ; by the Indi- ast distance, ansported to bear-skin, to lope she will avers, otteis, : peltry ; butj f, when, wi'.ii| ies, buB'dloes, Vlonlmorenci, , about seven .hroughyhiclil HI 30] It passes is wild, and thickly wooded ; and its cour«?e lies Lvcr a bed of broken rocks, till it curncs to the brink ol a precipice, down which it descen Is in one uninterruped fall of two hundred and forty feet : the water seems to reach the bottom slowly, and has the appearance of snow, as it is received in a natural bason of lock ; and the spray, when the sun shines, reflects the most vivid tints. The cataract of La Chandcere has a very different as- pect, but is not less beaniilul. It is not half the height of that of Montm^jrcnci, but it is rwo nun- dred and fifty feet wide ; ;:nd the banks arc ci»vcred with the grandest forest trees, and form, amilst the piles of broken rucks tfiat lie scatteied around^ some of the most romantic views irna^indble. My letter is already too long, yet it will not be complete unless I add a few particulars of our journey from Quebec to Montreal. At the first post-house, our driver, with his hair in a queue, bound up with an eel-skin, announced our arrival by a loud crack of his whip, which brought out the post-mabter and all his family to the door to welcome us. The old lady was very stylish, in a close Trench cap. She gave us z gcod breakfast, of which we stood greatly in need. The road runs mostly along the buiiks of the St. Lawrence, pre- senting ihe same views of neat little towns and vil- lages, We so much admired from the water, in our passage to Qaebec. In the first foiiy miles we were often gratified with prospects of great sub- 1 laiity, \02 W 111;,". !in, :|;il. .-<' cov £ac gaii Tlie dere Colo tliey box( the! rimitv. In some places the immense river, like a lake confined between ranges of mountains, seem- ed to roll under our teet ; and the largest merchant- men, as we looked down from the steep banks, ap- peared no bigger than fishing boats. We took re- freshment at a town called Trois Rivicrrs, from its situation on the shore of the St. Lawrence, close to the mouth ot the river St. Maurice — the largest of thirty rivers that fall into the St. Law- rence, on the north-west side alone, between Que- bec and Montreal. This river is divided into f^^ ^ three streams, by two large islands, just before it j"'" is lost in the mighty St. Lawrence. The town is I^PP^ not large; the streets are narrow, and many of the p^"' houses are built only of wood : but we were so 'fi*^^d well amused at the convent of St. Ursule, that we j^"^ ^ disregarded the meanness of the town. We first entered the chapel, the doors of which open to the street, under a porch. It is very lofty, but not extensive. Opposite to the entrance is the altar, which is richly ornamented ; on each side of it is a j lattice, the one leading to an apartment allotted for | sick nuns, the other connected with the cliceur of ' the chapel. Here we were desired to ring a bell. Upon this the curtain within the lattice was drawn back, and we discovered an apartment surrounded with nuns, and furnished with an altar, near which kneeled several nuns, dressed in black stufFgowns, with white handkerchiefs spread over their shoul- ders, and drawn eloi )res( up wer: rnrt !0 oy)^ 'er, like a ins, secm- meichant- banks, ap- 'e took re- crps, from Lavvrrence, mricc — the e St. Law- ween Que- vided into St before it he town is many of the ve were so ale, that we . We first P"^- open to the fty, but not is the altar, i ide of it IS a j t allotted for I be clioEur of 3 ring a bell. e was drawn | t surrounded ; | r, near which j : stuff gowns, • their shoul- oat ; to these were •v^'ere joined a kind of hood, of white linen, that covers half the forehead, the temples, and ears. Each of them had, besides, a flowing veil of biack gauze; and a silver cross hung from the breast. The works of these sisters in birch bark, t...broi- dered with elk hair, dyed of the most brilliant colours, are very ingenious: of these materials they make pocket-books, work-bags, dressing- boxes, models of Indian canoes, and a variety of the warlike weapons used by the Indians. Strangers are expected to purchase some of them, which I did willingly, and shall send them by the first opportunity to Catharine and Louisa, as speci- ^mens of the art. Besides works of fancy, these good sisters employ themselves in attending on the sick in the hospital, which is close to the con- Here I will close this long epistle, and for the resent bid you adieu. ■ ARTHUR MIDDLETON, LETTER M» 501 {I.-, i' LETTER XXXV. Artluir Middkton to Ech^in. 1 log ^ ado ■ attr wln § ot u oars in \ \ voic Kingstou. nme t •iic .< My dear Boy, IT is said the eye is not satisfied with ip^jg seeing, which may be truly applif^d to us ; for alter -^^ the vast extent we have traverse^!, and the varicp to fii that has occurred in the course vi our peregrina. ^'■ tions, I could not behold a party oi Montreal deal- ^ ^ ers in furs, set off for an expedition to the distant i gj^p lakes that lie towards the Pacific Ocean, without an -^^ ardent desire to share their adventures, whatever jgna diiTicultles they might encounter. Mr. Franklin ^j.^j was not long in yielding to my importunities; but rj.^. cho.-sing to visit the celebrated Falls of Niagara, we L^, took a different course, and agreed to meet them at 1^^^ Maciiiilimackinack. We accordingly embarked at j;^i Chine, a small pleasant village about nine miles i high'jr up on the island, to avoid the strong rapids, .i . just above Montreal. Here arc very extensive store- k houses belonging to the king of England, where the preseiits for the Indians are deposited. On tl:e opposite side of tlie river stands the village of the Cockenoiiagd Indians, chiefly consisting ol a few rr log. house?, H'he ileepl than f'-^lt, I ^O.j in. Klniistoit. atisfipfl with DS ; for after J the variety it peregrina- ontreal deal- :o the distant n, witliout an L'S, whatever vlr. Franklin tunitics; but 1' Niagara, we licet them at '/ embarked at ut nine milc« strong rapuls .tensive store- igland, where itcd. On the village of the ting ol a few log-house?, log-houses, and a Roman Catholic cliurc . ftailjf adorned with pictures, lamps, and other f ^cry, to attract the attention of these people. When the I wind was favourable, wc used our sails — when otherwise, the boatmen were obliged to take their oars; a labour that they always cheer with a song, iti which every man of them joins, whether his \oice is melodious or not. A strontr current, at nmcs, obliged them to kc(^p as close as possible to ahc shore, and push the bateau along with light poles, headed with iron. They are ohen obliged 10 rest from this exertion, when they seldom fail iio fill their pipes, which they keep constantly in their mouths ; for a French Canadian without it is a rare sight. On one part of the river, called the Lake of St. Louis, our vessels were covered with fwarms of little white insects, rather larger than a gnat, but of such a delicate texture, that tl>ey kmrnble to powder with a touch. We passed the first night on a small island named Perot, at the ^loiuli of the Utawas river. Here I enjoyed a tiovel scene. After our boatmen h.jd secured the little fleet of bateaux, thev divided themselves into Small parties, and kindled fires along the shore, that they might cook their victuals for the next d iV, and keep themselves warm during the night. 5 hese men arc so hardy, that in fine weather they $!eep on the bare grasr,, with no other covering than a short blanket; and when it is stormy iliey ihcker themselves with a sail, or a blanket spread- anainst. ^ 306 I '■ Nit mai not can us we pas and mg lane moi oft against the wind, over a few poles stuck into tliC ground. I envied their independence, and tried, one night, to imitate it, but I got a trimming cohl. The next day we crossed the Utawas, in order to gain the mouth of the soutli-west branch of the St. Lawrence. Tlie river at this place rushes down into the lake over immense rocks, with such im- petuosity, and the breakers run so high, that 1 tul'y expected our bateaux would be overset, or filled with water. The dexterity of our boatmen, how- ever, got us safe through these rapids, as they arc properly named, for boats are carried down the stream at the rate of fifteen miles an hour. As- cending the stream was, on the contrary, so tedious, I n that our party were put on shore, determining to proceed on foot, till the bateaux had passed this difficult navigation. We got a comfortable dinner in the English style, at a neat tavern, kept by an English woman, in the pretty village of the Hill q\ Cedars. This evening the bateaux were drawn up \ , for the night, at the foot of the hill of the lake, and ; . we pitched our tent on the edge of a wood, at a lit. tie distance from the river. I was fatigued, and slept as soundly as if 1 had been on a down bed, The next morning we entered the Lake St. Francis, about twenty-five miles long; and landed on the| | • Isle aux R.aisins, named so from the abundance of wild vines that grow upon it. The Indians, who possess it, were very friendly, and sold us some wild ducks and fresh-caught fish, for a trifle. \ Nicrht tipl it t mil Al wa i. pro tea wc on :k into liiC , and tried, iming cold, in order to :h of the St. ashes down 1 such im- that 1 fiillv ct, or filled tmen, how- : as they arc \ d down the | > hour. As- 3 Yt so tedioUvS, i ermining to I passed this rtable dinner ' , kept by an \ )f the Hill 0? i ere drawn up the lake, and wood, at a lit- | Fatigued, and \ a down bed, c St. Francis, landed on thej | abundance of ^ Indians, who iold us somi; for a trifle. Niasscs 310 1. . It, passes, that separates the United States from tLc ho; province of Upper Canada. It is two Lupdred of and twenty miles in length, and, in the broadest fea part, seventy wide. Our voyage was exactly the Th same as if we had been on the ocean, for the we shores being generally flat and sandy, we were «on mostly out of sight of land; and this lake being tin J less subject to storms than the others that are near Itlec it, the passage was calm and prosperous. As we fill t approached the town of Niagara, often called tain: Newach, we admired the handsome appearance o: 4\hi( the fort. Here we were put ashore, and soon en- lis a tered the town, which is one of the principal of 4\atc Upper Canada, and the centre of the gentility of Vhoi the province. The houses for the common people Ind I are mostly of wood, but those designed for the fish residence of the ofHcers of government arc vcia Ixpc handsome buildings. It stands on the western Ind bank of the river of the same name, in a very j^'hhl pleasant situation; but it is miserably unhealthy, fic ij the inhabitants being very subject to the ague, afieyi I have unfortunately experienced during the icii!|'}cai three days.^ I have had two violent fits of it. I arnf ieml now swallowing doses of bark every two hours.iii in hopes of preventing a return of it. Agues aiiii Tl| iiucnnittents are very prevalent in many parts oimuM America, particularly where the land has bc(:i:»to^ lately cleared of wood; which is attributed to thclcp. vapours that rise from the earth, when first turncAnii up, whicii has never before been cultivated. m,iiu liop^ 311 :s from tlie bope I shall soon recover my health, as in many v'o !:urclred of our wanderings I m obliged to fast as well as he broadest feast, and have no opportunity for indulgence, exactly the Though there is no regular market at this place, 'an for the we fare well: yesterday we had a haunch of vcni- y we were con, and salmon, tor dinner ; both purchased from IS lake being ian Indian, who gladly exchanged them for a hot- that are near lie of rum and a loaf of bread. Lake Ontario, and ous. As we ell the rivers that fall into it, abound with excellent often called Salmon, and many different kinds of salt-watei fish, ppearance o\ l^vhich come up the river St. Lawrence; as well and soon en- ^^ a great varietyj of those kinds' that live in fresh ' principal oi 4\-ater, its own natural inhabitants. The Indians, e gentility oi 4vhose chief occupation, besides war, is fishing mmon people Ind hunting, have a curious method of taking the irned for tlii; tsh in this lake. Two men go at night on these ment arc vcia Ixpcditions, in a canoe : the one sits in the stern, the western tnd paddles the boat along; and the other stands nc in a verv T'i^h a spear in his hand, over a flambeau placed in )lv unhcalthv. fTC head of the canoe. The light attracts the fish ; the ague, aliey crowd on all sides of tlie canoe; and the lurinc the la.-'. i])earsman, accustomed to the business, strides its of it. I aiiifiem with such dexterity, that he seldom misses his >rv two hours. Sm. [t. Agues anil The day and hour being fixed for our visit to the 1 many pans o'.mmous falls, we mounted our horses early, and land has beci'l'iout on our expedition. I must confess, my impa- ttributed to tl cicr.ce was so great, I was often ready to leave i! e hen first turncAjmpany and advance bctoreihem. Though good I cultivated. «d:incrs restrained mc from this indulgence to my liopfl o-vii 3J2 w feci own tellings, my atteniion was entirely en^ossed tc with watching for the first glimpse of the white sc column of mist that rises over the cataract, and ro listening for the roar of the impetuous torrent; bu: t\v 1 could perceive neither, till we approached with, thi in a mile of the place, though Captain Toddrel, jwli a gentleman in our company, assured us that he iro had himself heard the tremendous sound, at the -gan in. vil fa mi I )(J ic; caiij lUdtil kai er iccil )ce( '] el c> 13 water IS at times a c lark :rcen, en^ossc'A teriapted by the island I mentioned before, wMch { the white separates the two arms, rests unshaken on its ract and rocky basis, and seems, as it were, to swim be- ,..«r>t • hvi* tween the two streams, which rush at once into torieiu , ^'■*- bed with, this stupendous chasm. Picture to yourselves ■ Toddrel, what a mighty torrent that must be, that proceeds , j^^jjt he jirom the united waters of the Lakes Erie, Michi- nd at tbt Ig'^n, St. Clair, Huron, and Superior; and the bite cloud juimerous rivers that empty themselves into these rh sc appear- Jakes, and you will form some taint idea of the tmospherc, ^o our collection of natural curiosities. Neither 1 bands aiK ,tlie cataiact, nor tl;e river above it, are frozen in ere tberc are -ilie severest winters; but as the lakes that contri- and trees; 2" .Inite their waters to it are, enormous flakes of ice of the Greai |iiuh constantly down the falls, when the thaw sets >ut from tlu (ill, and are piled at the bottom to a great heigfit, it are large La huge irregular masses, resembling the columns ontlnual fore; lof a palace; which must greatly add to the gran- became fami flcur of the scene, particularly when the sun shin- »d behind tlv, inir on them reflects a thousand colours, and causes near paying foi'iiL'ni to glitter like diamonds. Having brought rlwind that a4ome refreshments in a basket, we did not think oi- taract, deprive* ccnrling the clifFtillihe sun was going down, the tremendoAhcn we had the unexpected gratification of be- iff senseless itvliioMirig one of the most perfect and brilliant rain- iklin with grtAows, displayed in the spray th.at was rising from [, made one lAe fall. om the thrcaie« The river from which this sublime cataract kes its name, connects the two lakes, Erie and Mtano, together, by a course of thirty- six miles, hich it runs partly over a bed of rock between cm. Being extremely exhausted by the fatigues ihe day, and t)ur minds deeply impressed by ceeded in catc y which be dr some time bel escape will te: elessly in fm half a glassBc stupendous objects wc had heen viewing, we ivest myseU\ lorror, as if i the bottom ot Idieu. a white subsul like froth petr my pocket, to lired to rest, full of the most sublime ideas of the wer, wisdom, and goodness of the Deity. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER .•JI8 t •'■ ( f t LETTER XXXVII. Jd it] Arthur M'uldUton to his SistcrrS, Catherine jgc and Louisa. W^ jini fort Line. ;"P My DEAR Sisters, fma WHILST we remained in tlie neigh, f^ bourhood of the falls, we made several plcasan: ^' ' excursions through difTerent parts of the adj.- ^^Ci cent country; and as we had fine feather, cr..f"6 joyed the wild, romantic prospects, afforded by thfp'«^c variety of mountains, valleys, and woods. In oii:r^t)i walks, we met with many large snakes of difFerci'jr'^ sorts: some were basking in the sun, displayinif^'^ their variegated colours, and twisting theniselvc#''f into an hundred elegant forms ; others climbirw^^'^ the highest trees, in pursu'uuf birds and squirrel upon which they principally feed. These climbt are several feet long, and the upper part ot tV'^^^ body is black and scaly. Wherever they appca*"^ they carry terror with them ; even to the winj inhabitants of high trees, who seem to have power to escape from their devouring jaws. I ba| watched them several times: after they have fix( their eyes on an animal, they become moticj less, except turning their head sometimes to tPciji -r I 'SI Ihici r'S i I 31?) ..;.)r ' fight, and sometimes to the left, but still krcp their eye invariably directed to the object. 1 he distracted victim, conscious of its danger, instead of flying from its enemy, bccms to be held by some invincible power ; it screams, diaws nij^Ji, then , Catherine 'goes to a little distance, and after skipping about with unaccountable agitation, actually rushes into the jaws of the snake, who swallows it /". > ^'P' **-'^'' having covered it with a slimy glue, to make it slide more easily down his throat. In one 1 nciiih. i^^ ^"^ rambles we were struck by a strange sort \ leasan; of rustling noise; and, on examining whence it pro- ,- I g^j; . cceded, we beheld two large snakes, one pursuing e feather, en- the other across the field. The pursuer was a afforded by tl Lvoods. In 0^- lack snake, and the runaway a wat<;-r.<>iiake. Th.ey oon met, and, in the fury of their fiist encounter, 'til in an instant firmly twisted together ; and liilst their united tails beat the r,round, tiicy tried ith open jaws to wound each other. Kow ma- gnant they looked ! Their heads were dnnlnlshcd a small size, their eyes seemed to flash fire. Af- r they had struggled thus for five minutes, the dter-snakc disengaged himself from its enemy, d hurried toward the ditch. Its antagonist iii- dnily assumed a new posture; and, half creep- g, half erect, like some proud warrior sure of j^jjip-tory, overtook and attacked the other again, hic' plcctd itself in the same attitude, and pre- rcd t ) resist. My curiosity was uncommonly t'me^ to i^^i'^c^ by this extraordinary battle. Thus op- ricl P 4 posed, kes of differcr' sun, displayin:; ting theniselvc others climbir ds and squirrel These climht pper part ot t^ ver they appe a to the wing icem to have ring jaws ;r they have fix* become mon" 320 ■ii t h p ii aii posed, tlicy fought Avith their jaws, biting eacli other witli the utmost rage. Whether from a con- vsciousiu'ss of infcric)r strength, or the confidence ot security in his natural clement, ihe water- snake still seemed desirous of retreating toward the ditch. I'he kecn-eved Mack one no soonei perceived hjs diift, tlian, twisting his tail t^vici round the stalk of a strong sliiub, he seized hi> ad. versary by the throat, not by his jaws, but by twist, j ^^ ing his own neck round thai, of the water-snakc, | (f^, and so prevented him from reaching the ditch. 1 he j j^j] latter, to guard against a defeat, likewise fastened I -^[j^ Mmself to a stalk on t!ie bank, and bv thai rnearjj yni became a match for its fierce anta^^onist. I'hii! 1 po' me tney pulled against each other; and when th.ty cnJ/uu Cited themselves the most, that part of their bodieij a, which was entwined looked extremely smalljf^ whilst the rest appeared swelled, and convulse with strong writliings and turnings ; their eyi looked on fire, and ready to start out of the heads. Victory was long doubtful, till at last t!: stalk, by which the water-snake held, gave wa'Jtliol and dow.n they both plunged into the ditch. SoajicliJ o\ our companions are very expert in shootimljcoi hunting, and sporting ot every kind. When tlAjjej lilt wit puf gre tro out wi th t lie cuo S ometimes we s hoot I iron era! lyj uin th( i\ wood pigeons, or liunt squMj:;]] rcls. In the inidst of these wilds wc saw m. parties of the Lewka Indians, who were amu> tl<:i the mse 01 .1, V> ihn Kir biting eacli troni a con- c confiili'"Cc ihc waicr- ating toward ,ne no soond lis tail twice \ soizci^ bi>^ an- , but by twi-it. ^ I watcr-^nakc, be ditch. The >wisc fastened bv that Tncar>^ gonlM. Thu! ,ei:- full Icngili,. when ility ex- of their boditi remely smai! and convulse: gs ; their eye:^ It out of the; 1, till at last lb leld, gave \v4 he ditch. Soa crl in shootin;' ud. Whenilx juln the pai' , or hunt squ; lij we saw n)j l;j were amuyi themsel' tlicmsclvcs in kilIindtv^^. came the prey of the hunteis. The Indians liaftnl furnished themfelves with knives a-id iomalia\vi.A,i with the hrst they presently stripped ofTthe sV.'vm tj loi o'^ 323 h he was to le invitation averse from porting, vvil- riosity. ouscd to the ans being as- a breed be :ifF. We en and with the last, cut up the carcases : the parts of preference, such as the paws and haunches they carried home, and the remainder was left in the wood. The haunch of one of the cubs was dress- ed for dinner, and proved extremely good. In some of our furest excursions we saw co- veys of birds, larger, but otherwise much resem- bling the English partridge, called by the country people, spruce pheasants. These birds are deli- .valking some cate food, the flesh being flavoured very much like perceived the our pheasants ; but they are so stupidly tame, tliat :red leaves ; a jii requires but littl'e art to shoot them in numbers : t adept, being Jespecially if the sportsman begins his attack on ye, how many'lthe bird that sits lowest on the tree, and so pro- yr, and whether teeds as they ascend; the survivors seeming insen- hunters imme- klble to the fate of thjir companions. :ed farther into i In order to pursue our journey, we proceeded to they were di« ^ort Chippeway : it stands on a creek near the shore the bear, whicli' jf the Niagara river. The fort consists of a small two cubs. T ^t )l()ck-house, inclosed by astocliade of ce(!ai posts, im, and lodgci vhich is merely sufficient to defend tlie garrison re at this assault ouiig, she turii-larne large stone repositories for goods, < rm the iht the cubs miest of the village. Block. houses are so common- ogs, with opes 11, ovcrp()were*iy thing in England, 1 must des. libe one to yo! s aiterwards bcjheir walls arc formed ot thick, square pieces of rtie Indians tiajmber; the upper story projects above the lower, a'-.d tomahawf.^ Kd off the skill lU. '1 loop holes are 'elt round (he edge ot the floor; that if an attempt wew made to storm the house, P 6 th !'• 324 ihe garrison could fire directly on the assailant??. But should their resistance be overpowered, anc half the building be shot away, the other haii would stard as firm as before; each piece of timber in the roof and walls being so fixed, as to be in. dependent of the rest. So that if a piece of artillery were played upon the Block-house, that part alone, against which the ball struck, would be displaced,! and every other remain uninjured. From Fon^ Chippeway we followed the course of the river ic Fort I'lrie. In the latter part of our ride we observec that the land is rich, and well cultivated with Indian corn, gourds, and squashes; melons are also plant, cd between the rows, and attain great perfection Our inn at F'ort Erie is a wretched log-housc, v;i: scarcely a whole pane of glass in any ot xhi windows. Unfortunately for us a heavy rain fc last night, that beat in upon us, as we lay as'ce on the floor, folued in our buffalo skins; but oJ greatest hardship is wani of food, and the little ^d| ai get is so bad, that nothing but hunger can makcB i; go down. We wait only for a fair wind to set iM trl across Lake trie, and I am so tired of rur quartcjl w| I do little but watch the weather-cock. Presd my affectionate duty to my mother, and think ofi of your absent i til ARTHUR MIPDLETOJ n w u b. M' ri w LETTl 3^25 :he assailant? powered, a^^ le other hall iece of timber d, as to be in- cce of artillery that part alone, dbe displaced, 1. From For., of the river ic de we observec LETTER XXXVIII. Mr. Franklin to Edjcia MUhllcton. District of MaUlcii. My DEAR YOUNG FrieND, FROM the account your brother gave of ited with India: j our accommodations at Fort Erie, you may believe IS are also plaiul we willingly obeyed the summons of our captain rreat perfectior I to embark. Wc had not been two hours on board log-house, wii.| before the signal gun was fired, and the vessel in any of ti.t| f 'dded before the wind. Evening approached. I heavy rain ftl ^*j' vast body of water, bounded only by the bo- as we lav aslcei rizon, glowed with the rich tints reflected from the o skins ; but oil ^vestern sky. The tall trees of the forest, that and the little m adorned the shore, seemed tipt with gold, by the last beams of the selling sun. All was hushed and tranquil, as if nature were at resi. Ihe moment was favourable to reflection. My mind wandered across the Atlantic with satisfaction, in the consi- deration that the same Power under whose protec- tion I had been preserved in safety througji so MIDDLETON^ many changesof climate, watched over my friends at home. I sunk to sleep under a strong iin- ness of the Universal Father. nger can make r wind to set ii »dof t'Ur quartc; ^r-cock. PrescI r, and think oltl prcs gOO( LETTl In the morning, the face of nature presented images of S9G of his power. The surface of the water, which before was smooth and clear, became agitated with swelling wavcs, that tossed the vessel about furi- ously. The wind blew a hurricane; and the sky was obscured with black clouds, that reflected their sombre hue on the besom of the lake. Seve- ral hours our frail bark had to contend with this war of elements. The scene was awful, and ex- cited the most reverent ideas of the majesty and omnipotence of the Author of Nature. The wind subsiiled towards the close of day, and the ap- pearance of th .; lake resumed its former harmony. During the rest of the voyage, a moderate gale fili- ed the sails, and we advanced as fast as we could desire. We were several days on the passage, the lake being near three hundred miles from the western to the casiern extremity ; and so deep, that, in calm w.ather, vessels may securely ride at an- chor in any part of it ; but when stormy, the anchuiage in the open part is not to be trusted, because the sands at bottom are loose and give way. 1 he bv;igl'tof the 1 md Is very variable. In some plr.ces, lon,t( ranges of steep mountains rise from the vciy • I'ge oi the ^vatcr ; ;n others, the shores are so th-t, that wiiCti a strong wind drives the water to wards the lanu, ttie country is inun- dated tor miles. As we ^poroacned the western side of the lakf, we obscived sevi-ial clusters ot islands. .vLi.h i ie^ent very pleas. n;, scenery, be- ing ail adorned with wood, even to the very smallest; wi lai ^be ce oft tie ^are tcr poi ncs ^i(] so I Ihe ihe fro: lire |iau ;wt icn ►ei hnc \dy .ft los >rc 5tra ratt Ihe ins /ater, which igitatcd with I about furi- and the sky 327 smallest ; and the water near the banks is covered with the beautiful flowers of the water lily. The larger islands produce various kinds of fine tim- ber; amongst which are oaks, hiccory trees, and red hat reflected cedars, of such extraordinary size, that they are 1 ke Scve- o^^^" carried forty miles distant, to the British set- nd with this element on Detroit river. None of these islands ,11 j^pjj^ e^. arc diversified with rising ground ; and in the in- , maiesiy and tcrior parts of some of the largest are extensive The wind ponds and marshes. From the moisture and rich- and the ap- ^^^^ °^ ^^^^ ^'^''» probably, arises the vast number of harmonv- ^i^crcnt kinds of serpents that abound in them ; erate eale fill- ^^ ^^'*^» ^" summer, it is dangerous to walk among t as we could ^^^ ^^"g grass. Raccoons and squirrels inhabit nassao-e the V^^ woods in multitudes ; and when the lake is iles from the f rozen between the main land and the islands, bears that '^'"^ occasional vi isitors. Ducks and wild-fowl i so deep Iv ride at an- |isu"t these ponds and marshes ; and the shores • « * 1 1 I f~t ^ % • 1 I • 1 warm with gulls. The same wind ti;at carried us cross the lake not being favourable fur entering etroit river, we were obliged to lie at anchor indcr Middle Island till it changed, and taking the dvantage of thi^s circumstance we went on sliore. her amusing ourselves with a walk, we were ospitably invited to pr^rtake v\ an e.itcrtainment, repdied of their gie.::est deli'-ucu*!,. l(r us, as traiigers. Amongst other nove'f;: s, tr^cre ^vas a 1 clusters ot tattle-snake, said to b;" ol e\cii'c?ut flavotn, and 'cenerv be* }he flesh was of a beavit'lui white; but ;ve L rope- to the very 1 stormy, the be trusted, )0se and give variable. In Tionntains rise r. others, the wind drives ntry is inun- the western sinaiiest; ns could not sufficiently overcome our .-lejiidices 3£'8 to taste it. The signal-gun again summoncn us on bonird; and in a tew hours we entered Detroit river, Avhich does noi exceed five mi!es in width. The I shores are tint ';!y wooded, and, towards the new 1 ^ British port, enlivened by Indian encampment^ ^ and villages ; and bey'^nd them are seen the British j ^ gettlcments. The river was crowded with Indian , canoes and bateaux; and several pleasure-boats |^ were cruising backwards and iorwards, in the cx-j^ pcctation of meeting our ve; sel, which was freight. ed with presents ior t!ie Indians, sent annual!; by the B/itish government, to secure their attac!;. nicnt and Iriendship. At length our vessel moorcc opposite to thiC house of the superintendant oi l!;e Indian department, to whom we were introduce., by letters of recommendation. He welcomed u tl tr \r w ¥c Jo, m n \v witli the greatest politeness; and here we hav; taken up our abode, till some friends irom Mu: tical have transacted their business, which is like, r^' to detain them some time. I'hc neighbourlu) *'' tliat c.aends ahjng the eastern side of Detroit m" is called the District of Maiden. The huii towards the lower end are widely scattered asu;* der ; but at the upper cud the inhabitants havJ"^*! stal f ormc name. da small town, that I la s not yet received I) 4 Some of the farms are of considerable size. 11. of our friend, the superintendant, is one of the bcj culti\ ed. The house sfands pleasantly in vid of th^ .v'er, which is offen pictufcs(]ucly adoiiiw'fl :n nmonccl us on ' . •^,^^ I wiih Indian canoes. A pretty lawn, planted with • 1 I air' clumps of trees, is spread before it, at the bottom I width. ^''^ „ , , . , J , 1 .1 ^^,., i 01 which stands a larce wicwam, or council-house, wards the new , , , ,. -i i i ^«f, 1 \vncrc the Indians assemble whenever thev transact encampments ' . . , ^ 1 T) . u any tifldiis of importance wuli the ofliccrs in the een the Bnn^n { \, ' . , , 1 „ I Indian dcpartmciu. During our stav at the house ed with Indian » o - t .,,^ ol this ccmleman, I had the pleasure ol seeing the pkasurc-boais i ,•,.,.. t^ • , . , ^. ceremony ol distributing the presents, ricviousto irds, m the c\- ^ ^ . f . , . hlie day appo'- *c ' number ol chiefs, of different ich was freight. \ _ ^ ^^ ,1 iiribcs, brought eacu a bundle oi L '^ bits of cedar , sent annual.), ' • , i r i - •, , . , , wood, containing' the exact number ol his tribe. ire their aitacli. ^' ,, ,, r,o , WHO expected to share the bounty ol their Ureal r vessel mourcc ^ . .■ , father, as they style the king of En^rland, The intendaut of the * . , ^ ' ^ , ^ . ^ , longest sticks represented the warriors : the next vcrc introduci'. ^ ^ , , , 1 ni size the women ; and the shortest the childrcr. le welcomed u . . r • r , , 1 Piis contrivance gave as exact information or what ^ here we ha\cj o ^^ . , , . nds from Mo: which is like; neighbourht)>. of Detroit river^ n. The hu'J.^;^ V scattered asu:* inhabitants havj L yet received men warn wonii erable size. 1^ is oneof thebd leasani'y in v.ci ucscpcly adoiii \^ ales of thick blankets; blue, scarlet, and brown oth, and coarse figured cottons ; with large lulls )f tobacco, guns, hints, powder, balls, shot, case- nives ivory and horn combs, looking-glasses, iipe-tomahawks, hatchets, scissars, needles, bags )1 vermilion, pots and kettles, were displayed ir\ 01 del 330 an ar pc tai la( SD( order. The bales of goods were opened, and the blankets, cloths, and cottons, divided into pieces of sufficient length to make a wrapper, sliirt, or other article oi dress for a single person. The allotment of tlic whole for each tribe was after- wards thrown in a heap, at the foot of the stake in- scribed with its ^anie. After this preparation, the chiefs were ordered wl: to assemble their warriors, who were loitering tio about the grounds at ihe outside of the lawn. They soon obeyed the summons ; and, having formed a wa circle, listened attentively to a speech delivered to the them by the superintendant. *' Chiefs and war- tud riors," saidhe, *' your great andgood fatiiei, (mean- rio ing the king of England,) who liv cs on the opposite the side of the Big Lake, as they term the Atiantic, cor being ever atten e to the happiness of his faithful ica people, hasj with bis accustomed bounty, sent the i is! presents you see spreafi on the gras<5, for his goo.l jof children, the Indians. Tiicguns, the hatchets, and,' the ammunition, are for the young men ; but I hope dcs that the hatchet of war will long lie dormant, and lyo that it will only be applied to the purposes oi j hunting. For the comfort of the aged, the women, ! and children, ho has supplied you with blankets i clothing, and k;ichen utensils. Young men, (con- tinued he,) be attentive to the wants of your agc^H parents, and divide the spoils you take in the chaci! between them and your wives and chiMrcn. May the Great Spirit grant you blight suns, clear skies ari 131 incd, and the d into pieces per, sbirt, or person. The be was after- ; the stake in- and a favourable season for hunting ; and wlicn another year shall be passed, if you continue peaceable, obedient, faithful children, your good idiiicr will again send a vessel across the Big Luke, laden with tokens of his friendship." Interpreters were present, who repeated this speech in the different languages of each tribe, were ordered who expressed their approbation by loud exclania- ATere loitering tions, *'Hoah! Hoah I" e lawn. They Alter this address the chiefs were called for- vine formed a ward, and their respective portions committed to h delivered to tthcir care. The chiefs received them with graii- iicfs and war- tudc and satisfaction, and, beckoning to their war- fdihei , (mean- riors, a number of young men quickly started Irom )n the opposite the crowd, and in a few minutes the presents were 1 tlie Atlantic, conveyed from the lawn, and stowed on board the 3 iof his faithful jcanoes, which were waiting to carry them to an unty, sent the jisland in the river, called Bois Blanc, v/here many , for his gooti : of the Indians reside. 2 hatchets, and- Your brother enjoys the most perfect health, and en; but 1 Inpe idcsircs to unite his love to you, and the rest ct your attached li. FRANKLIN. Idcsir ; dormant, andjyour family circle, with that of your attached \c purposes o\ d, the women, wuh blankets ungmen, (con- s of your agc^H kc in the cluce hildrcn. May) ins, clear skic aivi LETTER 332 LETTER XXXIX. Jrlliur Middlcton to Mrs. MlditUluii Ddroit My dear Motiikr, WE arc now at Detroit, on the side of tlic river opposite to Maiden. Many sciilcment? are to be seen on both shores, adorned with thr most tempting orchards of peaches, apples, and chcrrifs. The last were ripe; and for a few pence, the owners were willing we should take as many as we chose. The apples were green, and of many different kinds. They boasted particularly of that called pcm)n( cai!':, as of exquisite flavour. If i < 1 f> i f h h c« ic I It th n( th . al tr in ch th( an wi v/1 IS ke\ tl o\ a very large size, and deep red colour to tl. core. The manners of the people are much like tho^e o\ Lower Canada. Almost every body speaks French; and the qcnerality retain traces of thcirl f "^' I'rench descent. The town of Detroit is the large ch. i:i the western country. It is surrounded by slron,^^ .stockade, through which tlierc arc \o\.\: gates, each clciemled by a blockhouse. It is situ ated in a land ot plenty, being well supplied witl all kinds of provisions. F.sh, in particular, i excellent, aiid abounds in ihc river and neign- bourini ) see 'di' ■ stu (of of [Midi J o r»( N ddhivn Dttroit. n the side oi y sculcment5 ned w'nh tV.f , apples, and )r a few pence, ake as many as and ol" many cularly of thai flavour, h i< colour to tie arc much lil'^ ry body sp^akj races ot tli^i^ it is the large rounded by • here arc tour sc. It is sitU' supplied vvu' >.( larticu l^r, ler and ncig': bourii bouring lakes. A large species of trout, called here the MichiHimakinack white fish, is a daiiuy morsel ; but you know 1 am not attached to good eating, and can make a hearty meal on the plainest lare. The streets of the town arc always crowded wiili Indians; and I already fancy I am in the midst of their country. They appear a harmless race, did not their wiser neighbours, the white people, teach them to drink spirits, which makes them, at times, almost mad; and excite them to revenge, by trespassing upon their territory ; and injure them, in many respects, by imposing on their ignorance. When the States purchase lands of them, the chiefs sign the deeds by the token that distinguishes their tribe, which is generally the figure of some animal. Many individuals are likewise honoured with peculiilr titles, that express the qualities for , which they are famed. One of my acquaintance I U called the Blue Snake ; another the Little Tur- key ; his father the Big Bear ; and a nimble fellow, that is well known at Detroit, has received the name of the Active Squirrel. Their ingenuity is charming, as you would acknowledge were you to see the carving on some of their wooden bowls, |ciislics,and other household furniture. But they be- J stow the greatest pains in decorating the handles j of their tomahawks, powder-horns, and the bowls 'oF their pipes, which are carved very neatly, con- iidering they have no other tool than a kniie and a liALchet* 334 liatcliet. The women arc equally ingenious in tlie embroidery of their moccasins, a kind of buskin they wear on their legs. Their porcupine-quill work is elegant, and would not disgrace my Catha. rine. They dye the soft, new quills of this animal of the most brilliant colours ; for their knowledge ol a the uses of plants enables them to excel in the arts ot • t dyeing, and in curing wounds and some diseases a with astonishing success. But of all their attach, ments, 1 am most pleased with their expertness in S geography. They have no maps or books to ex. ^v plain to them the situation of rivers or provinces; ol nor are their children tormented with long lesson« ^t of the latitude and longitude of places : yet they ^t can find their way through a country they have thi never seen before, to a place at a hundred milcj ipu distance, without a guide, or sign-post, or any other an direction than what is furnished by their own ob- jwl servation. I heard a story of a parly of the Creel; nation, that proves them capable of this quality. They were travelling from Staunton, a town situ- JJoi ated behind the Blue Mountains in Virginia, to Piii- ino ladelphia. Some of them set out before theircompa- hh nions. When the rest lollowed, they were attendee by a few of the townsmen, who kindly offered to tlu escort them on their way. They proceeded to- ihe geiher, for some miles, along the high road, wbe.'^iva the Indians suddenly turned into the woods. Tlie: Jo 1: companions in vain pursuaded them to return t pro; the beaten tract. They persisted that they weiiiin goi:i, 335 enlous in llie nd of buskin Tcupine-qui^i icc my Catha. of tliis animal knowkage oi clinthcartsoi going the direct way towards Philadelphia, and should presently overtake their friends, who they were sure had chosen the same route. Nor were tliey mistaken. The others had made their wa\', in the same place, through these pathless woods ; and it was afterwards found that they had taken the way to the place of their destination, as direct diseases as if a crow had Hown before them. 11 their attach. I cannot resist relating an anecdote of a young vnertness in Scneka warrior, who came accidentally into a room , oks to ex. .where Mr. Franklin and I were examining a map ^r/^vinces; iof the state of New York. As soon as he looked 1 or provin^^a , j * h lone lesson^ ^t the map, he comprehended its design ; tut being . ,.*.t tViev unable to read, he could not discover what part of laces . yet i"^) ... . they have the country it described, till I gave him a ciu.-, by , dred miU'S ip^tting my finger on the spot where weti;.n were, any othei pnd showing him the situation of Bufialo Creek, • Q^n ob« where his village stood. In a moment he saw the r ^i^g Creek connection of one part with another, and, sitting f this aualiiY'^°^"» presently ran over the whole map, and town situ- fcointed out, by name, every lake and river for •«;•:. tn Pi^i' rnore than two hundred miles from the villa«t side of the lake, known the name of Saganaum Bay ; but a clear sky )!! enabled us to pursue our voyage. 'I'iic cap- n pointed out another bay, remarkable for con- Q tinucd •Id is not abaiecj eluded the tui o f sp en dini will permit n.i Ihere 1 shall ci jour satiblactior I., I 333 fiucd thundcT, a phenomenon not easily explainerl. To the north-west lie the narrow chain of the Ma- natralin Isles, believed by tiie Indians to be the i abode of departed spirits. The port ofMachilli- • makinack stands on an island, in a strait which it unites the Lakes Michigan and Huron. Such a '^, busy scene could scarcely be expected in so remote i a situation. All is bustle and activity. Theii' » are not less than a thousand persons assembled, each interested in making bargains, packing anckings, ike. Provisions and spirituous liquors lurcrs inat p^^i boti^;hi jii Canada. The latter are not allowed Q 2 to ht them to pi k, by exchaiiii es, in the way c 310 to be «;ol(l to tlic Indians ; but this law is eluded by making tliem a giit. And a pernicious one it i'* to these people, whose manners it corrupts; whose health it injures ; and it i^as too often been made the means of imposing upon them. Our friends, the traders, who mean to pursue their journey a vast v» ay to the north-west, fur the sake of trading with the distant tribes, arrived at this place a little before us. They followed the course of the Utawas river, and consequently passed a very different route from that we have dc scribed in our letters, since we left Montreal. The particulars of their journey have been related torf**' me by the leader of the expedition, who is an in "^^ telligent man, named Roseberry, for whom I have- contracted a friendship. They embarked at La Chine in a fleet of canoc> each manned with eight or ten men ; with the: baggage, consisting of sixty-five packets of good' six hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred wei^r of pork, three baskets of peas, two oil-cloths ( cover the goods, a sail, &c.; an axe, a towin I (T .S Si tl th t'.V .e ill! ilC g IIKJ a kettle, and a sponge to bail out the water; withi quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair vesse 1. What European would undertake such a voyaj in so slender a vessel, thus laden, with her gi whdle within six inches of the water ? Yet Canadians arc so expert, that lew accidents haj :ei| *•> : . !i hd CTi inrl PC J Tal >cn, At the end of the Lake of the Two Ahjiff'" u\ aw is eluded i ious one it h rupts; vvbose n been made ean to pursue i-wcst, fur the < 341 tair.s, the water contracts into L'tau'as River, which, after a course of fifteen miles, is imcmipicd by a succession ol rapids an*! cascades, tor ten more, wlicrc terminate the Canadian Seigniories. 1 ought to have told you, that the company is con^- posed ot clerks, inierpre* ms, cannc-men, and 5;uides. They arc liecjiiently obiigeil to ujHoad jes, arrivec 7 followed the \ 1 . , their canoes, at difficuk pa^sa^es, and carr>" the consequent doods upon their hacks, or rather suspended in 1^. ^slings Irom their lieads. Some men will carry lat we have dc Montreal been re three j)ackijj^cs ; others but two. The canoe, in i-i this case, is towed by a strong line. They hail late 1 Jalready passed three carrying-places, when they who is an i n- freached a rejiular current oi sixty miles, to the jr w T u ,.a Hortatjc de Chaudiere, where the body of water talks horn 1 na\e-j e> » / iwentv-five feet, over craggcd, hollow rocks, in a ilcet of canoe; ih the len ; wi lackets of good^ hundred wci^^ ,vo oi l-clolhs 1 ;e,a towing he water; wit )e, to repair t. :c such a voya? with her gu: ? Vet dent iiost wild, romantic -manner. Af a small distance )elow is the river Ritleau, falling like a curiuin, :i one vast sheet, over perpendicular rocks. Al his portage the canoe is obliged to be taken out of he water, and is carried, with difhculty, over the !• Steep rocks. They now entered Lac des Chaudieres, . »hich reaches ab)ijt thirty miles in length. At the In, Water Iv acci the Two 1 [lid ot this is the Portage des Ciiats. '1 lie river is |cre barred by a ridge of black rocks, rising in linnacles, and covered with low, stinted wood. he stream fin(is its way over and through these pcks, in numerous channels, making a consi- jjA'rablc fall. From hence a serpentine channel is Moum"^"^^^^ by the rocks for several miles, when the. lai o current I 342 -Current slackens, and reccivfs ihe name of tlit Lake des Chats. At the channels of the Grand Calumet, the current recovers its strcngtii, and the men are obliged to renew their labour, oi car- rying the goods over several portages ami He charges ; which differ in this, that, wheie it is nt-- ccssary to convey the goods alone over land, it is called a portage; but where the canoes also must be taken out of the water, it is a decharge. The Grand Calumet is the longest carrying place in thi; river, and is about two thousand and thirty-five p paces, ovcra high hill. A few leagues beyond, the o current forms Lake Coulonge, and from thence e; proceeds through the channels of tlie Allumetics st to the portage of the same name. A great part u' w the country through which ihey had passed is ii fine deer-hunting tract; and the land, in maiiTiri] places, fit for cultivation. From hence the rivetf of ppreads wide, and is full of islands to the beginninlll s of Riviere Creuse, or Deep River, which runs lire the form of a canal, above a mile wide, for nearlipl thirty-six miles; the n jrth side bounded by vtriyo high rocks, with a low sandy shore on the sou: It is iniercepff;d by falls and cataracts, wliiclrel occasion two more portages. A steady currcvn carried them hence to the River du Moine, whe there has generally been a trading house. A su cession of rapids and portages occurred till tli reached the place where the Petile Reviere fa into the Utawas. The Lake Nepisingui is a fi 43 name of tiit of ibc Grand sircngii^ and abour, o*. car. .ages aiul (^^^ vrhcje it is IK- over land, it is IOCS also must echargc. The , ng place in thi' and thirty-fivt nes beyond, the id from tbencei the Allumeticv A great part u had passed is i\ land, in mam' hence the rivet lothcbcginniiii ', which runs i| ^,.idc, for neat bounded by vtij yrc on ibe soui cdtavacis. w^^' V steady currci lu Moine. wbej g house. Asui jccurrcd till tlv tile Reviere ia| pisingui is a f< fmlcs bcyon:! if, and is bounded by rocks, which are inhabited by the remainder of a numerous con- verted tribe of the Algonquin nation. Out of this lake flows the Riviere dcs Francois, over rocks ot a considerable height. This river is very irregular, both as to its breadth and form ; and so interspers- ed with islands, that in its whole course the banks arc seldom seen. They are chiefly hills of entire rock, without the shallowest covering of soil. In about twenty five leagues more, the trading com- pany entered Lake Huron, and passed the island of St. Joseph, where is the most westerly military establishment in the country. Nothing now ob- structed their arrival at Michiliimakinack, to which they proceeded. Every thing is prepared for our departure to- morrow. We shall soon be bevond evcrv trace :ivilizaiion, road iropeai posts, I shall keep a narrative of the most striking occur- rences, with remarks on the wild country and peo- ple we are going to visit, which I shall transmit to you, by the first conveyance that offers. In the lean time, feel no uneasiness for my safety; but rely upon that Providence which watches, wjili lal n iquai eye, over an tlie njiions o >f the lobe, lieu. H. FRANKLIN, Q4 LETTER 544 LETTER .XM. Mr. llifiv}; FvaukUii to his Brother. My dear Brother, VOII must not consider this as a letter, till rdihtr as a journal oi our travels through the wjiils <»l the nunh-west pails of America. Alter tJuLarking at Michil!irp;»lvinack, \vc proceeded to the I'dll ot St. Mary, whrrc is a village that wa^ iorrnerly a place oi great resort lor the inhabitants <.l Like Superior : but the trade is now dwindled to noiliiuf;, and the people reduced to about tliiiiy iamilies ci the Algonquin nation, and a lew Ca- jjadians who liave settled amongst them. The great quantity of white-fish that are to be taken near the falls, especially in autumn, is their at. fraction to this spot. At that season, this fisii leaves the lakes, and comes to the running shallow waters to spawn. The natives live chiefly on tliii fish, which they liang up by the tail, and preserve I hem throughout the winter with salt, when tluv can /;et it. Leaving St. Mary's, wc now cnterti Lake Superior, which 1 think may be pronouncei the largest and most magnificent body ot fresfl"'iJ wat r J r s ti I tl h( h, in art ito Jec nil fPP \ho\ la [LTr (kc -rai leai •(' thcr \ t cfujit'-yf^'^- WlitCrilltll«J \'VV/iiU. Atl.>(.l(>usand five hundred leei iu 346 the mercliants and their clerks, daring their short ^tay there. The north men live under tents ; but the more frugal pork eaicr, or canoe man, lodges beneath his canoe. The portage here is nine miles over hills and mountains; but the men are so inured to the busi- ncss, that, for an extra reward, some of them, after having carried two pjfckages of ninety pounds each, returned with two others of the same weight. 7"lie good* being safely conveyed over the portage, Mr. Roseberry and his partners have selected from the pork-eaters a proper number of men to manage the north canoes, that are to p.oceed to the inte- rior parts of the country. Those men who went last year to the north, are aUo arrived at the Grande Poitage, where they receive their wages, and often send part of them to their friends in Canada. ^ Wc mess at the first table, with the merchants, clerks, guides, and interpreters ; and fare well, on fresh meat, salt pork, fish, and venison ; but the poor canoe-men arc obliged to be satisfied with a pudding of hominec. The necessary arrangements being made, ouri 11 leader ordered us to cmbaik again on the north sid of the portage, on the river Au Tourt. It woul: be uninteresting to mention a.i t'le portages an decharges we passed, between h place and Lak de la Pluie; suffice it to say, the poor often obliged to unload their canoes, the excessive labour of carrying ri Hows wer \ '^ nd endur if eir goodi w •omciiim 347 ig their short rr tents ; but man, lodges I'cr hills and d to the busi- ot them, after pounds each, : weight. The the portage, selected from \ Tien to manage d to the inte- icn who went i at the Grande ages, and often Canada. ^ the merchants, d fare well, on ison ; but the atisfied with a 1 ) ing made, our n the north sidi ij 3urt. U woul: e portages an place and Laki 3or fellows wer es, and endu ig their goodi lomciitH' sometimes over rocks and precipices that were difficult to pass even without a load. At the farther end of the Outard Portage is a very considerable hill to descend, over which hangs a rock seven hundred feet high. 1 he face of the country, during this part of our route, is generally a wild itcenc ci huge hills and rocks, separated by stony valleys, lakes, and ponds : the latter often covered with water lilies ; and the ground, where there is any soil, sheltered with trees. In one of two places, I observed a strange property of the current to attract the canoes towards the bottom, so that it is difhcult to paddle over it; and we were told of loaded canoes being in danger of being iw'allowed up. Before the small-pox desolated this country, and completed the destruction of the inhabitants, who had been previously much thinned by a wat with the Nodowasis, it was very populous. They arc particularly attached to the part near the Lake de Sagoigan, and make (heir canoes there: the lake abounding with fish, the country round it be- ing plentifully supplied with game, and the rocky ridges that form the boundaries of the water, co- vered with a variety of berries. Near Lake de la Pluie, the natives find a soft red stone, of which they make their pipes. Here the people from Montreal meet those who come from the Athabaska country, and exchange lading with them, ]t is the residence of the hrst chief, Q6 or yi8 or S.ichem, ol all the Algon(|uiii tribes. Here aUo ihr ciders meet in couneil, lotrc.u ot peace or war. The discharge oi this lake is .' licJ uc la IMuie Ri- ver, and is one oi the finest su .urns in the norili- west, running a course of eighty mile .. Its banks are covered with a rich soil, and «.rc often clothed with open groves ot oak, niiiple pine, and cedar. Its waters abound in fish ; particularly sturgeon, which the natives cither spear or take with drag- nets. The French had formerly many settlements near Lake du liois ; a body of water remarkable for a cluster of islands, some (j\ which are of such ex- tent, that they may be taken for the main land. This pait of the country is so broken by lakes and rivers, that a man in a canoe may direct his course whichever way he pleases. 'ihc Indians have a curious custom of crow n!ng atones, laid in a circle, on the highest rock of a poitage, called Galet du Bonnet, with wreaths ot branches and shrubs.- Wild rice grows very abundantly throughout the country ; and the fruits spontaneously produced aie stiawbcrrics, hurtleberries, plums, cherries, iia/e!-nuts, currents, gooseberries, raspberries, and pears. Lale Winnipic is the great reservoir ot ^several, large rivers, and discharges itself by the Kiver Nelson imu Hudson's Bay. The Red River luns into tiie lake iiom an almost opposite direction. There are two trading establishments en It. The. country, on citlier . ticlc, consists pi 5 «tnc i . r» i\) Here also cace or war. lariuicRi- n the norili- . Its banks ' >ftcn clothed ', and cedar, ly sturgeon, e with drag- y settlements .•markable for e of such c\- le main land. by lakes and :ct his course I of crowning est rock ot a th wreaths ot iiroughout the sly produced ;ns, cherries, pbcrries, and reservoir ot itself by the . Tlie Red ost opposite stablishments [', consists ot plain?< plains, where herds of ilic buiTalo and the elk graze at full liberty. The eastern side abourjds in bcavcr>, bears, moosc-dcer, fallow-deer, &:c. The Ked River ilivules into two branches, that bound a consideiahle district inhabited chiefly by the Assiniboins. They confine themselves to hunt- ing the buflalo and trapping wolves. The re- mainder of the iormer, which they do not wani immediately tor food or clothing, they pound into pernican, something like potted meal ; and melt the tai, and prepare the skins in the hair, lor winter. They never eat the wolves; but they make tallow from their tat, and ^ their skins, which they exchange with the tradcis for iirins, ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and tiinkets. There are in this country three principal torts for trade; one on the river Dauphin, one on Rcd- dccr River, and the last on Swan River. The inhabitants are chiefly wandering hunters, ot the Knisteneaux and Algonquin tribes. 1 lie passage uf our canoes was interrupted in the Saskatchiwine liver by a rapid, in which the waters tumble over rulges of rocks that cross the river. At the toot of this cascade lueic is an excellent sturgeon fish- ery, trequented by vast numbers ot pelicans and cormorants, which watch for an oppoitunity of •iciiiing the fish that may be killed or disabled by me force ot the waters, j^rom the Saskatchiwit,.e a succession ot small lakes, interrupted by falls 4nd rapids, and varied with rocky islands, ex.- u:[.ds to the Great Chiiicliill River, 'liie Foriagc de 350 dc Trait^ received its name from Mr. Joseph Fro- bisher, who penetrated into this part of the coun- try from Canada, as eaily as the year 1774, where he met the Indians in the spring, on their way to Churchill, according to annual custom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded with him, for as many of ihem as his canoes would carry; and in consequence of this transaction, its present name was given to the portage. The country is inhabited by several tribes : those who live to the north-west are beaver hunters; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, and fox skins. The Picaneaux and Stone Indians, in their war parties, wander on the confines of Mexico, where they contrive to possess themselves of horses ; some of which they employ to carry loads, and the others arc used in the chace of the buffalo. A dreadful monument remains of the mortality occasioned by tl the small pox, at the Portage des Morts, where fl there is a promontory covered with human bones. L On a certain rock where the Indians were used to tf make an oifering, we observed sketches of figures a painted red; and on a small island in the Lake dci Pouris, a very large stone in the form of a bear on which the natives had painted the head anc snout of that animal. The numerous lakes, faHs, rapids, islands, ano bays, in the course of our navigation, cannot be particularized; I shall therefore only draw yout 1 attention to the principal, or such places as art i . 351 . Joseph Pro- of the coun- ■ 1774, where I iheir way to )m, with their y traded with s would carry; jn, its prescni 'he country n ^ho live to the others deal in X skins. The nr war panics, o, where they oracs ; some ot and the others o. A dreadful occasioned by Moris, where human bones. on any account remarkable. There is a fort on a low isthmus, in Isle a la Crosse, which has taken its name from the game of the cross, which is a favourite amusement among the natives. The situation of Lake a la Crosse; the abundance of the finest fish to be found in its waters; the rich- ness of its surrounding banks and forests, in moose and fallow deer; with the multitudes of the smaller tribes of animals, whose skins arc precious; and the numerous flocks of '.vild-fowl, that frequent it in the spring and aufn n; make it a most desir- able spot, either for the residence or occasional resort of the natives. At Portage la Loche the navigation ceases, and the canoes with their lading are carried over land for thirteen miles. This portage is formed by the ridge that divides the waters which discharge themselves into Hudson';? Bay, from those that flow into he northern ocean. The Portage la Loche is covered with the cypress, the pine, and s were used to the spruce fir, and is of a level surface till within chcs of figure! a mile of its termination; when vrc descended a very steep precipice, that seemed equally imprac- ticable to climb ir- '»r down, as it consists of eight hills, someo: ^ chare almost perpendicular*, nevertheless^ the activity of our Canadians sur- mounted all these difficulties, even with their ca- noes and lading. When we reached the top of the in the Lake dci iorm of a bear the head anc Is, islands, anc ion, cannot b( ly draw youi precipice, which r ses upwards of a thousand I fi ct above the plain, every one was charmed ; but places as art Arthur Aithur stood enraptured witli the extensive, ro- mantic, and ravishing prospect. Mr. Roseberry, Arthur, and myself, indulged ourselves with con- templating the vast expanse. Beneath us flowed the Svvan River, beauiilully meandering for thirty miles. The valley, which is at once refieshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying a most delightful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till the blue mist ob- scures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of tlic finest verdure, where the elk and bulFalo Hnd pasture. These are contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behind it. Amidst this sublime display of uncultivated nature, the moving scenery ot himian occupation conipleied the prospect. From this elevated situation we looked down upon our fellow travellers, who appeared like pig- mies, employed in pitching their tents in a charm- ing meadow, amidst their canoes ; which, being turned upon their sides, presented their reddened bottoms, in contrast with the surrounding ver- dure. VV'c were again frequently interrupted in our progress by carrying places; but after surmount- ing many difHculties, we reached Fort Chepewyan, standing on a point, on the souiheru side of the Lake of the Hills. ... . ' The I- b 1\ f( VI },a ^ th( j fas at CdH to txt ^t e I free I IS € m |iee] Ihe: command, liaving no dependence for winter stock, but the produce of the lake and tlie fisherv, has ordered ilie nets to be prepared. These nets are sixty ta- ihom long : a small stone and vvooden buoy are fastened to tl;e side line, opposite to each other, at the distance of two fathom.^. When the net is carefully thrown into the water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its full txtent; and it is secured in this position by a stone at either end. The nets are visited every day, and Idled like pi^- I jrequently taken out to be cleaned c id dried. Th.^i itensive, ro- . Roseberry, 'cs with con- ith us fiowed ing for thirty efreshed and breadth, and L*qual height, ture of wood 3lue mist ob- thc inclining ests, relieved re, where the are contrasted le woods, and L this sublime oving scenery prospect, looked down in a charrn- iwhich, being leir reddened lOU ndin 2 vcr- |u Pt ed in our ler surmount- Chepewyan, \\ bide of the The is easily performed at present; bu', it will be a difficult task when the water is f!o;:;n five feet |lt'cp, which it generally is in the winter. Tlieti t!ie men are obliged to cut hol-i ii the ice, at the •(listancc of thirty feet from each other, to the lull length of the net. By means of these openings, |nd with the assistance of poles, the nets are placed In, and drawn out of the water. Hooks and lines 'C also daily employed to provide a winter store. he white-fibh arc the principal object gf put suit : tl IC" 3j4 they spawn in the autumn, and towards the begin, ning of the hard frost crowd in shoals to the shal- low water; when as many as possible are taken, and preserved, perfectly good, till April, iu a fro- /en state. In spring and fall great numbers of wild-fowl frequent this country, which 1 suppose wc shall consider a great treat, after having so long subsist- i:d on fish alone, even without the addition of vegetables. , ^ In the fall of the year, the natives meet the tru. ■ ders at the forts, where they barter such furs or E provisions, as they have to sell; they then obtai; "' credit, and proceed to hunt heavers: whence \\m\ do not return til! the beginning of the year, when they are again fitted out in the same manner, and ^ come back the latter end of March or the begin- ning of April. The greater part of the ChcpewyaiiM resort to the barren grounds, and live, duiin§| ihc summer, with their relations, in the enjoV'^ inent of that plenty which they derive from iiu^ merous herds of deer. But those who are tlM most attached to these dcsarts, cannot remain thcrM < in winter; but are obliged, with the deer, to tak^ shelter in the woods, during the rigour of the scijlon son. Sometimes they contrive to kill a few hc^er vers, which they send by young men to exchanAhc tor iron utensils and ammunition. ihie Arthur':* active mind is never at a loss for amuseiou mem ; but the unvaried solitude of our present ^ijist tuaiiui ds ihcbegin- Is to the shal- le are taken, pril, ivJ a f^^'l of wild-fowl .pose wc shall o long subsist- le addition ol ;8 meet the tra cr such furs or ley then s; whence ihtv the year, when le manner, ancj ch or the begin. : the ChcpewyanM id live, duiinlj , in the enjoy erive from nu e who are tU not remain thcr he deer, to tak taalion, will not bear a comparison with the cheer- ful society we enjoyed last winter at Quebec and Montreal. Mr. Roscberrv has travelled a vast deal in this part of the country, ar'd is well acquainted with the language and peculiar customs of difTe- rcnl tribes, which makes liiui a very entertaining companion, and enables him to amuse many a dreary hour. This letter will b-* dispatched to Canada, by the first company that returns thither with furs. Present my kindest remembrances to all my European friends and connections, and be assured obtai; ^^^^^ ^ **"^ your afTcctionate brother. H. FRANKLIN. LETTER XLII. Arthur Middlcton to his Brother Eduin. Chcptniyan* Mv DEAR Edwin, THE ligours of winter are past, and our iaour of the sc:j called, as a reproach, because they were drive:; from their own country by the Knistcneaux. A the month of the Dog River we landed and refresl; c-i ourselves, whilst the canoes were gummed. Se vcral rapids obliged the men to unload tht rinoeslf'^' and convey the goods over land, which fatigue! '^ them extremely; but the skill of the hunters pu**'^* pfsrcd them a luxurious repast, of seven geese, beavc lUM e '(in i., ^ y, and fotu td in another cf, atientlf^l )ung Indians, / b.vi engager' IS intcrpvciers adcii with our besides a pro- cscnts, to con. s. Mr. Frank- must prepare J,)7 bfaver, and four ducks. Rainy weather comir^ on, wc were obliged to land and encamp, in or- W\c eggs ot swans, geese, and wild-towl. vVc c aumnied. o-i , , , u i i i • i o latched the breakm^r ot the ice with impjtunce ; load the CAnocs| . . • , , , i i- u I iicavv ram, attended wiin tnumlcr ami lnThininij which taiigucl ' , • , , • , ■astened its dissolution, and, as soon as it was be hunters P^^ • . , , . i- .i i ■racticable, we veniurcd to one ot the Idrj^cat seven ceesc, ■ i i i • . Ilaiuls, but were stopped bv shoals oi ice trom beavcf rr . proceeding irded to you till is dated. mm r c ai tfi procccdinf, fiirilicr. Obsciving several rein-decr on tlie island, the huntcrf'^' '| shrubs, and a few scattered trees, stunted for war*''' of soil to bring ihcm to pertection. Unfeitile this situation appeared, berries of various kiivi*'^ abound : we often gathered cranberries; junipeibcrjr ''I Ties; raspberries; partridgt-hemcs ; goustbcrrief*' ^1 and the paihagomenan, winch grows on a smmI'^^''' stalk about a fout and a halt lugh, in wet mossy Np*'! a!)d the fruit icsetiiblcs a raspberry. ^V^c continue*: f^'b'^ 3)0 toa.^t the lakr, sometimes crossing deep bays, and lrc(]uctuly landing on the islands. Wherever we went on short wc saw lorlgcs that had been de- h rted by the Iiidiani;, and tracks of the moose and rem deer, which seem to be numerous in thii country : white partridges are also plentiful, and ai this season they become ol a grey colour, like tliat of the moor-fowl. Notwithstanding the cold, our nichts were again disturbed bv the stingy of r\\ receives a " ^ •, . ' , , , ^'* . ilie mu^fpiuoes. \V c now sailed under the dircc- • ., tiun ol a Red-knifc Indian, whom Mr. Hose* h inaiW small , , , , • i i " ' iH-rry had rric[dpe(! as a cuide, and cotning to a bav, which !ic mistook lor a river, wc steered down it, till wc were involved in a field of bro- ken ice, and with ^»reat difhculty secured ourselves i\ reln-decT e of ihem. n\ island to on fiib, and I'lic main direction oi led round ii« :nt siz-es. A^ :h rccei The nor ..--ill k ice: but e within them, ] laiui at thrcf an ^^^" ^ , , In an island before the approach ot nicht. Our vcral ol tbcir ^ »-» , ■ , , , , . Indian fiuide misled us a second nine, wlnclHiad cc. but thai* , ^ . , , , , . * ufcarlv occasioned a serious quarrel between him 1(1 the Indian chiet who accompanied us from J ,pLhc'pcwvan ; but Mr. Iranklin reconciled them, wc observed *y \. . . . . , , ^^^ . ;|y enlorcing the necessity ol union ; and tlie^rrcatcr ''*'"*'^ . lie diihculiv, the more need there was o! their mn- ried with mos^M . . ^ .. . , '" MA exertions to discover the passage we wanted. ^*^^^^*^ •» .liter several efforts we doubled the point ot a very Uuteiuie -^1 . , , , f M • . u i .1 . Ing islantl, and tell into a nrancli ol the nvcr various Ki''"f , , , , , n i n , ,li' had been so loPii endeavoiumK to nnd. rlcic eviunipt'bcir •' , r , , ^ 'J ' ic water appealed to abound m nsh, and was co- . goostbcin<^ ■red with swans, eeese, black ilucks, and otht.r (i-fowl. The mouth of the river where it di<. vci mossv ^l'^ I I CI T I 1 '^^ '..|i>»ics itt waters into tlic blave Lake is ten miles nuc< i o wide, ows on a wet VVccoiUi kC 1 l()0 »1 f ™ •wide; but it narrows, giadually, to the brcadtli .>, bait a mi\c- Tlic houthcrn sliore is the highest land both arc covered with trees, part ot which have been burned, and lie scaitercd on the ground \!r. Rosebcrry, wl)o lias traversed this country before, assured us, that land laid v/ii:jie by fire, which pro. duced spruce-pine, and white bin h, yields alter- wards nothing but poplars, though none previous!) grew tlicre. The Horn .viountain now appeared in sight, which is in the country of the Beaver Indians. Our guides being apprehensive of rour' weather, v/e landed, and pitched our tents just n time to shelter us from a violent thunder storir ^ attended with torrents of rain. \Vc continued our course, often amongst island and at limes with a strong current : the weather fo some days was stormy, and lightning and tliundi frequent. Our canoes passed the mouths of stj veral rivers, which discharge their waters into t! main stream. In order to provide for the futu;!^"' necessUies. on our return, we concea led in a1 island, two bags of pemican; which is meat slice. dried in the sun, and pounded. Eaily one mor: ing w »g ob servei a ve ry hijih mountain at a d tance ; on our nearer approic h. tl ic summit d] pcared bare and rocky, but the sides w cloilied with wood, interspersed with spots brilliant white, that sparkled in the sun. It wl some time before we discovered that they wt only patches of mow. Our hunters occasional '(!( je :an ''el "-i; J ' :4V sU ri 351 ic breadth 01 bijrhcst land: w \iich bave groun )uniry re, «upp!icJ us wlili swans, gccsc, wVnc partridges, and once iliey broui^ht us a grey crane. Having ciicdiiipcd one evening at the foot of a \ Wr.\ '^'S'' '^'''» ^ ^^^^ "^ "^ ascended it, in order to ex- \ fore I plorc the country. As it was very sleep and craggy, the siglit ol an Indian encampment on its summit but t>ur Indian attendants exj 'ained wbicb pro- ,^ yields aiitr- 3nc previously now appcarc' surprised us, the motive for clioosing such an in( onvenient situ- ation, by telling us, that those tribes who have no o { the U avert '*^'"^» prcler it, by way of defence against tl icir ensiv of rougl I, H enemies. ur u tents ]ust thunder stornij Our prospect from this levaied spot was ob- structed by a circular range ot hills : between these were small Uke<;, wheie great nuinbrrs of majestic amongst*^ ihe wca an ling be ino 1 ,].lii'^^an3 \sere s-.vimming ahout in a nwst graceful f Jjniaiiner. 1 he swarm.s ol tiiiisi|uItoes tliat annoy- ticl*-'^ us in this spot, compel ltd us to return hastily ihcr a tliun utbs of ?c lu our tents. r waters into 1 1 The next evcnltvq the curling smoke from some Idc for the iutu: ilcd in a] tat slice :oncc;! Ich is n^ one rnoT' tally louiuai the sumiBit a^ ndian fires inviud us on shore; but wc were no doner perceived, ilian the whole band divided ia ,icat contusion, each providing for his own safety: .line hiding in the woud^, others retreating to their n at a i .\i ;anoes, '11 le assurances of our 1 Ind lans, that our icmions wore Irieiuliv, were not imme ihe SI des \N L w ith spo^s Ithe su n. It XV that tbcy Wi lucrb occasional diatcly .'l:e.ved. Some oi the boldest at last ventured to .r cari;p, and were so agreeably welcomed by tc-.enis ot small value, that their companions soon ilowed. i hey proved to he fi\e families of the :A\Q and D.jg rib Indians, and as they differ R IM dei' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A 1.0 I.I 1.25 [f lltt IIM ■^ IM IIIII2.2 ■ 4 6" 2.0 1.8 U llllil.6 ^. <^ /2 ■dl 'i^. ^§ a V »% ■> y # Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STUEET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 b^ O^ '<> o 6^2 widely from the tribes we saw in the United State and Canada, 1 shall describe their persons anc licss. They are a meagre, ugly, ill-madc race, with very clumsy legs; and appear to be unhealthy, whicii probably arises from their want of clcanlines,. iSome of them wear their hair extremely long, while others suffer a long tress only to fall behind and the rest is cut so short as to expose their ears. There were old men with long beards, and others who had pulled them out by the roots, l^he men have two double lines tattooed upon each cheek, from the ear to the nose; and a hole is made througl the gristle of the nose, large enough to receive c, goose-quill, or a small piece of wood: a strange r notion of finery, but not more absurd than an Eu g ropean lady's ear-rings. Their clothes are mad* of the dressed skins of the rein or moose deer For the sake of warmth, their winter veAmenif s fii Bj i are prep area in the h air. >ome o f ih cm are deed rated with a very neat embroidery, of porcupin quills and the hair of tlie moose deer, colourcB, red, black, yellow, and white. They wear sli made of skins; their upper garments are suflicieiui large to cover the whole body, with a fringe rou; the bottom ; these are worn night and day. TliiM leggins reach halt way up the thigh, and arc er broidcred on the seams and the ancle. Both scn dress nearly alike. To complete their attire tli adorn themselves with gorgets, bracelets of wocl PC Itt si hu 363 Cnlted State I j^^^.^^ q^ bunc, on the arms and wrists ; and a band persons ana I Qji^athei. round the head, wrought with porcupine quills, and stuck round with claws of bears and ace, with very I. ^^.ii^j.fowl, to which they hang short thongs of the iiealthy, whicul ^■^•^^^ ^^ ^^ animal resembling the ermine, in the )t clcanlines^.l j-^j.^ ^f ^ tassel. Bands, garters, &c. are formed ^tremely lo"Si| q{ the quills of the porcupine, woven together with to fall behuulJ jjf^^,^^,^ [^ 3 ye^y jj^at manner, and fringed with pose their ears.i gtfjpgj^ pf leather, worked round with dyed hair irds, and otlici.>l^f ygj-JQ^jg colours. You can hardly conceive )0ts. I^^c '^'^'^liiny thing more grotesque than their whole ap- pon each chcekl ^,^2^.^^^^^^ is made throupl /^ few poles supported by a fork, fixed in a sc- lUgh to receiNC ci^jj^^jj.^^jyj. {v,,-,^^^ ^^^ covered with branches or vood : a stranL,(M^j.j^^ serve them for a lodge. They build two surd than an ^^ttf these opposite to one another, and make tlie lothes are "^'^'^'^jrc between ihcm. Their furniture consists chiefly or moose dccrB- ^ |-^,,^ dislics of wood, bark, or horn ; and their ivinter vc^mcn»^Q|.jj^g vessels arc shaped like a gourd, narrow f them are deccB ^^^ ^^^j wide at bottom ; and are made of wa- ry, of porcupir.m,^^ which is the roots of the spruce fir-tree split, ,e deer, colourtBj ^^r^^^ 5^ close as to hold liquids : but as ihey They wear shuM^jijj ^^^^^^ ^^ ^}^^ ^^^^^ ^1^^^ j^^|.g ^j^^^^ ^^,| j^^ its are su(licienim^j,jg red-hot stones into tiicm. They have, be- liih a tringe ^^^^^'*s, a number of small leather bai^s, to hold their It and day. i ^^ ■broidery, lines, and nets. Of the fibres of tiic igh, and arc enBi^.^y ^^^^ ^l^^y make thread, and fi>hing- lines of cle. Both sCN«5.jj^^^^,5 qJ- jj^g rein-deer. They hunt with bows ic their attire i ■arrows, spears, daggers, and clubs. The dag. racclets of \^'om ^^^^ short, flat, and sharp pointed, and are made K 2 ol S(i4 of liorn or bone. Their axes arc composed of a piece of grey or brown stone, and their canoes are so liglit at to be carried with case on a man's back. They urged every argument they couW use to dis-' suade us from proceeding on our voyage, assuring us that it would take years to reach the sea, and, that our heads would be silvered with age belore our return. They also related rediculous traditions of monsters of frightful shapes, that would encoun- ter, if not devour, us by the way. You may believe this had no effect on such men as Mr. Franklin orjj^ Roscberry ; but our poor Indians looked yeii\ grave at these wonderful accounts, and were nci easily encouraged to lay aside their fears. 1^^ Notwithstanding these dreadful prognostics, vpo re-embarked, and soon passed the Great Bear Lalpoi river. We met with numerous islands, and had ridge of snowy mountains always in sight. Grej numbers of bears and small white buffaloes frequej|oi those mountains, which are also inhabited by II dians. Soon after we came to the termination ■^' the mountains, the rapid appeared which the dians had described as so extremely dangeroi but we found their accounts greatly exaggeratj and passed it without difficulty. Pursuing course to the north-west, we came to a river flowed from the eastward. Here an encampmr ' of four fires invited us to land : a measure wlil'^^l terrified these poor people, who took us for el mics. They all fled different ways, except anr^' f),/ imposed of a icir canoes are a man's back. nian, who approached us wliii the full cxpcctaiicfi of being put to death. He said, his tew icinam- in;^ days were not worth preserving, hut, with the uM use to ^is. most afTecting earnestness, pulled ufT his venera- assurine ^^^ g*^)' locks by handfuls, and distributed ih?n^ ',^^x ' «-n nnd amonfist US, imploring our t'jvoui tor himselt ar.d cU the sea, ann^ _^ , ^ ^ . , ^ Kpfiue; ni5 relations. Our Indian*^ assured him or our nth age nei^'^ ..-lAltunr friendly intentions, which Mr. Kusebcrrv confirm^ u\ous traaui^ lu , / , ij «.,rnnn.' ed bv presents ot >uch ir:fle> as he knew would be : would encuuii , r av bcAieveij^cceptable to the people. The old njan, having V anklin oil^anird confidence, recrilled li.e scattered tugitives ; . 1 jj^ ver{;3''^^ onti of dien.', though reluctantly, was persuad- \ were nci ^d to accompany us as a guide in our expedition. * I aVc re-embarked, and found the river jrtow nar- >'iv fears. 1 • . ^ f'.rc \sw)''^'cr, and boundeii by iolty, nerpendicular, wlhtc \ prognostics, ^'1 ' ^ • ' . n Rear LaM'^^^s* We exchanged a few trinkets with another f- A and ba(l|l'''^y ^^ Indians, for a parcel ot excellent fish. • \.L rTreB^^^ongst them was some unknown to us, oi a sinsigbt. ^"^m °. , . , ^ 1 ffpnuel^^^d lorm and sreenisn colour, buffaloes treqiH| b r r ,• Vited by m ^^^^ ^" encampment of three or tour famine*^, ° 'nation I '^"'^ beyond, we received hares, partridges, and grey crane. Our new guide endeavoured to rsuade us to return, telling us that he was afraid the Esquimaux, who, he said, were a very eked, malignant people, and but two summers came up this river, and killed many of his lations. Our appearance mostly terrified the attered parties of Indians that we saw encamped the banks of the river; but our guides by as- » onfr^^'^GS of friendship, and Mr. Roseberry bv pre- except ani i » / < t^ K 3 sems Fursui :asure 366 .sent?, generally allayed their fears, and brought them to a degree cf familiarity. One party was clad in hare skins, and belong to a tribe called Ihre Indians, from living principally upon that animal and fish : rein-deer and beaver beinj.^ verv scarce in this part ol the country. We continued to see diflcient parties encamped on tlje banks otl the river, who differed but little from those 1 liavt described. As we had advanced far beyond the knowledge of any of oar guides, by bribes anu presents Mr. Roscbciry prevailed with a native ul this country to go with us. He told us that wc should sleep ten nights before we came to the sea, and that we Vvcre near the Esquimaux, wiili whom his nation was now at peace. Having never heaiJ the sound of a gun, he was extremely startle, when some of the liunters discharged their fowlingl pcices, and, had they not assuied him. it was a toj ken of friendship, would have left us. Mr. Rosen berry's making some memorandums in his poeketl book, was another cause of alarm; as he coul not comprehend the design of writing, but imalh gined he was a conjuror, and that it was a charirlo by which he ir.ight be injured. Two of his b] thers followed us in their canoes, and amused ii:! not only with their native songs, but with otheiildi in imitation of the Esquimaux; which so animate! our new associate, who was also in his own sma] canoe, that he jumped and capered to keep tii with the singing, till we were terrified left shou^ 1 a V c ii IT b n; lof Im ha o , and brouglit • ne party vvas a tribe called illy upon that cr being very We coniinucci 1 the banks ol m those 1 have [ar beyond ihc bv bribes and ^viih a native ui old us that \s'i\ :ame to the sea, aux, w'iili whom ring never heaia tremely startler red their fowlin.^l hinn. it was a to| us. Mr. Rose, ns in his poeketl m ; as be coul riting, but imal it was a charirj Two of his br and amused u but with other hich so animate! in his own sma] red to keep tin teriified left d shou. lid Miould upset Ins light bark. A smoi.c on the uestcrn shore induced us to land. 11^. c nativis made a mo.^t terrible uproar, talking very loud, and running about as it' they v/cre out of their senses; wliile the greater part of the won\cn and children fled away, a sure sign of hostile inten- tions; but \vc were too numerous tu be afraid of them. A few bine beads made them our (lienil. . They are called the Ouarreliers. Tiie rl\er w,;- now divitled into several channehs, and it w \\s diK ficult which to choose. Mr. Roscberry deters mined on the middle one. We were now in such high northern regions, that the sun was above the horizon all ni^lit. Mr. Franklin and I resigned one night's rest to enjoy a spectacle to us so extraordinary, and tiiat we were never likely to see again when we left this country. Traces of the Esquimaux were observed in several places. Near the spots where they had made their fires, were scattered pieces ol Vvhalc- bone, thick burned leather, and marks where they lliad spilled train oil. In one place we saw three jof their huts, for I cannot dignity them with the name of house. The ground j)lot is of an oval form, about fifteen feet long; the whole of it is [dug about twelve inches below the surface of the [ground, and one half of it is covered with branches lof willow, which probably serves the whole fa- Imily for a bed. A space la the middle of the other Ihalf, about four feet wide, is deeper than the rest, R 4 and it w i KTfr ijaa & i T 1 ■ "fc «^, i ,ii.> i i ri — fc ja n 3()8 and is the nnly p^rt of the house where a pjrowri person can stand upright. One side of it is the hearth, or fire-place; but tliey do not appcir to make much use ot it, for the wall, though clobe to it, did not seem to be burned. The door is in the middle of one ot the ends, and opens into a covered way, so low, that we were obliged to creep on ali-fours to enter this curious habitation. On the top is a hole, of about eighteen inches square, which serves for a window, an occasional door, and a chimney. The under. ground part of the floor is lined with split wood. Six or eight stumps of small trees driven into the earth, with the root upwards, on which are laid some cross pieces of limber, support the roof of the building. The whole is made of drift wood, covered with branches and dry grass, over which is laid a foot deep of earth. On each side of these houses are square holes dug in the ground, covered, except in the middle, with split wood and earth; these were supposed to be storehouses, for the winter stock ot provisions. Before each hut were stumps of trees fixed in the ground, probably for the purpose oi hanging their tish upon to dry. As we advanced, trees became very scarce, ex- cept a few du'arf willows. A violent rain forced us to land again, and shelter ourselves under tour houses, similar to those I have just described. The high lands adjacent were covered with short grass and flowers, whilst the valleys presented a sheet oi snov P ere a p;rowrj ie of it IS the lot appear to though clobc rhc door is in I opens into a re obliged to (US habitation, aliieen inches an occasional rround pari ot Six or eight :he earth, with lid some cross i the building. I, covered with h is laid a foot hese houses are ered, except in th ; these were winter stock ot stumps of trees the purpose oi ;ery scarce, ex- lent rain forced ivc s under four 3G9 •^now and ice. Being come to tlic entrance of a large like, which, from the shallowness of lie wa- ter, and the thicknes") of ihc ice before us, we could not traverse, we were obliged to relinquish our in- tention ol procecdiiifT huiher; thoiirih the whole company had cherished the idea of reaching the ocean before they turned tbcir faces homewards. \Vc pitched our icnls on an island, from the high- c^l part of which we could discern a solid field of Hc, extending from the south-west to the eastward. A chain ot mountains were dimly perceived on the .■^outh, strctchinci out as far as the eve could reach ; and to tlie eastward, we saw many islancU. White p.Trtridgcs, now turned brown, were rather plentiful : flocks of beautiful plovers were also common ; as were white owls, and gulls of the same colour. As 1 was rambling about in search of a plover's nest, 1 discovered the grave of one of the natives: jby it lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear — articles ithat doubtless belonged to the deceased ; but the arms that had wielded them were unstrung: they remained as tokens, perhaps, to perpetuate the re. jmembrance of his expertness in the chace or the ranagement of his canoe. - Our provisions running rather short, the nets Kvere put down, and we halted a day or two, in ropes of supplying ourselves with fish. During r stay, we had clear proofs of the rising of the e us conclude that the lake commu- K1 described. ^^'%(k, which mad iwuh short grassl^j^j^j^^j ^^j^ jjjg ^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^ confirmation of that ented a sheet oil R ;no^'■' op mion, opinion, sonit: of our men descried, as they ima- gined, huge pcices ol ice advancing towards us, but on a closer inspection tliey were whales, whose white sides rising above the water, might at first be easily mistaken for shoals o\ ice. Our guide told us, that the Esquimaux clmily lived upon these prodigious fish, and that they were often seen as large as our canoe. Mr. Rosebcny caused a post to be erected, in Tememhrarkce of our having reached this spot, and inscribed on it 69'' 7' north latitude, our names, and the date of our arrival. We now reluctantly determined to steer our course back again towards Chepewyan Fort, and as we returned by the way we came, I shall not trouble you with a repetition. of what I have already described, but only men- * I tion such particulars as I think will be interesting '. i 10 you. The cold, which had been "ery great, di- t ininishcd after we entered the river; a circum- stance that would have been very agreeable, if it had not been for our old tormentors, the musqui- toes, whose numbers increased witli the warmth. \Ve landed upon a small round island, close to the eastern shore, which seemed to be sacred to the dead, there being a place of sepulture, crowded with numerous graves: amongst these were scat-jrr tered the implements that formerly belonged tol those who were interred there. We frequentlyjtf observed a kind of fence along the hills, made d' with branches, where the natives had sei ^ jnarei ■ s e n a 371 snares to catch wWnc pirtridgcs. This Icntls me to mention the method the northern In- dians use to catch deer in a pound. They first i,earch lor a path fiequented by tliose animals ; and it it crosses a lake, a wide river, or a barren plain, it is the more favourable for their purpose; especially if woods arc near, to supply them with materials for their work. The pound is then built with a strong fence, made of brushy trees, perhaps a mile in circumference. Tlie entrance is not wider than a common gate, and the inside is fill- ed with hcdge«i, in the manner of a labyrinth ; in k acaii"i towards j every opening is set a snare, made \"ith thongs of ned by the way • parchment deer-skins, well twisted togotlier, which vith a repetition ! are extremely strong. These snares are generally but only mcn-'i fastened by one end to a pole, to prevent the deer til be interesting from dragging the snare from its situation. When n "ery great, di- j ^^e pound is thus prepared, a row of small brush- iver: a circum-| as they ima- r towards us; were whales, 'atcr, might at of ice. Our chieily lived Ydi they were , be erected, in d this spot, and de, our names, low reluctantly agreeable, if it rs, the musqui-: ith the warmth.; and, close to the 1 wood is stuck up in the snow that covers the fro- :'.en lake or plain, where neither stick nor stump besides is to be seen, which makes them a more striking object. These bushes diverge from the entrance of the pound, sometimes for two or three sacred to thejniiles, on each side of the deer's path. As soon uUure crowded as the deer arc perceived going that way, men, wo- these were scat- men, and children contrive, by making a circuit, to Iv belonged to get, unobserved^ behind them. Then they form We frequently themselves into a semicircle. The poor timorous deer, finding themselves pursued, run straight for- wards into the pound, when the entrance is stopped R 6 snare lip S72 up with bushes. The men lose no time in follow- ing them into the inclosure ; where those that arc entangled in the snares arc speared; arul those that arc loose, shot with bows and arrows. It happened one morning that I had taken a walk with the hunters in pursuit ol some deer, when we perceived the track of an uncommon snow shoe. Wc followed it to a considerable dis- tance, till we were led to a little hut, where a young woman was silting alone. My companions knew enough of her language to compieliend lux srory : she told them that she belonged to the tribe ot Dog- ribbed Indians, and had been taken prisoner by ^ party of their enemies ; who, though they had adopted her, and treated her witli kindness, could never win her affections ; as she could not banish irom her mind ib.cir cruelty in slaughtering her aged father and mother, with the rest of their com- panions, whom they surprised in the night : there- fore, she had taken the first opportunity of making her escape, with the hope of returning to her own country ; but that, having been carried away in a canoe, the turnings and windings of the rivers and lakes had so bewildered her, she could not find her way, and had therefore been obliged to build this hut, as a defence against the weather. She said, that she eloped in the month when the birds begin to lay their eggs, and that she liad supported her- self ever since, which was several months, by snaring partridges, rabbitS) and squirrels: she had also li i g I in ? c in fo\Unv- lose that arc 1,1 those that ' had taken a \ some (icer, 1 uncommon sldcrable dis- chere a young D.mlons knew tid h;r story: ; tribe i>l Dog- prisoiicr by a ugh they had indncss, could ,Lild not banish aughiering her t oi their com- night : there- 373 aUo co!itrivcd to kill two or three beavers and some porcupines. Fortunately, she had been able to bring with her a few deer sinews, with which she had made her first snares; and afterwards slie was obliged to substitute the sinews ul tlic rabbit's legs she had cauglit, twisted together. 'l',\c rabbits not only afforded her food, but a neat, warm si.it oi clothes, that she had made very ingeniously. It was happy for her that necessity obliged her to em- ploy herself in solitude, ur she would prcbably have sunk a victim to despair and melancholy. When she was not engaged in hunting h)r tooJ, she amused the tedious hcnirs with twisting the inner rind of willows into stnall lines, like net twine, of which she intended to have made a fishing net. Five or six inches ot an iron hoop made into a knife, and the shank ol an iron arrow head, were the only lools siic had; but she was far better qua- lified to support hcrseU, under such disastrous cir. initv of making ! cumstances, than an European woman, because the inff to her own (I Indians not only make their wives and daughters ried away in a '1 assist them in snaring animals, but they compel t the rivers and ^hem also to pertonn the most laborious tasks. Lild not find her 1; She was very glad to leave her retreat, and accom- ^d to build this j] pany us to our camp. As slie had a fine figure, and, She said, n "^^'itli the singularity of her dress, made a sinking the birds bt gin 1 appeal ance, she drew general attention; and having supported her- i! g^ven decisive proofs of her cleverness, each ol llic al months, by i Indians wished to have her for a wile. A wrestling irrels: she had^licatch took place on this occasion; as it is usual also i amongii S7 amongst the northern Indians, when two men like the same woman, to decide the matter by a contest of this kind; and the poor woman, whose.inclina- tion is never consulted, is allotted to the strongest man. The Indian who first disccered her gained the prize ; and whether her preference arose from love or gratitude is difficult to determine, but she seem- ed perfectly contented w\ih her husband, and highly pleased with her change of situation. Whilst we were in the extreme high north lati- tUQcis, our appetites increased to an astonishing degree ; so that we no longer felt surprise at the eagerness for food shown by the northern tribes. During the whole of our course, to the entrance of the Slave Lake, we saw tokens of Indian encamp- ments; but on our approach, the people generally retreated with precipitation to the woods. They were mostly employed in drying fish for the winter, and were often attended with dogs. The weather varied extremely. One day we were pinched with cold; and, probably, the next, overpowered with the heat. Storms of lightning and thunder were frequent; and on one occasion we were obliged to screen ourselves from the stones hurled in the air like sand, by lying flat on the ground. For a con- siderable time the nights were so light, that the stars could not be perceived, even after the sun descended below tlie horizon, which, during our stay amongst the islands in the most northern lake, never I I ^ V / 3 li vo men like by a contest lose.incUna- the strongest er gained the ose from love but slie seem- .usband, and uation. gh north lati- n astonishing urprise at the orthern tribes, he entrance oi' ndian encamp- :ople generally woods. They tor the winter. The weather e pinched with rpowered with thunder were |w ere obliged to i-led in the air a. For a con- never happened; consequently, it was pcrpetuai day-light. Our fare was varied by fish of diffe- rent kinds, swans, geese, wild-fowl, ptirtridqes, hares, and venison, according to our situation ;. and we always had plenty of berries of different sorts. We crossed tlie Slave Lake without any- material accident ; though the weather was very stormy, and we were {requ2ntly obliged to land' and gum our canoes. We fell in, one evening, wiih a lodge of Knis- tcneaux Indians. Amongst them one man was very much indisposed, irom a superstitious idea that his enemies had thrown medicine at him, whicli he was firmly persuaded would causa Wis death, Mr. Franklin assumed the character of a phvsician, and professed to have an antidote that would ef- fectually cure him. lie made him a harmless mixture, that had such a good eflect upon his spi« rits, that he perfectly recovered. After so long a voyage, and so many fatigues, we i joyfully entered the Lake of the Hills, across 5 which we were speedily wafted by a fair wind tc Chepewyan, where vye found our former acquaint- ance in good health, and well pleased at our return, ' Our voyage being concluded, my journal closes, with the assurance that I ever am, most affection- light, that the h ately, your's, after the sun |, Ich, during ourj: , . t northern lake.j: . xicvei ARTHUR MIDDLETON, LETTER 376 LETTER XLIII. Arthur Middkton to Idi^ Brother Edi>.in. Chfj'Ci'i/a/i loi t. My dear Brother, I ONCE more bep;in my journal at t]\ii place, though 1 shall probably finish it at a great distance; as Mr. Franklin and I arc setting ofF again, with Mr. Roscberry, for a dioiant expedi- tion to tlie souih-westwiird. Mr. Roseberry is attracted thiihcr hv the hopes of establishing a pro- fitable trade with the tribes that inhabit those parts, and of discovering a pacsage, westward, to the Pa- cific Ocean ; and we are drawn by the motive that has already led us so long a dance — curiosity. Mr. Franklin says, that though we have seen the principal parts cl the United States and Canada, with some of the Indian nations, yet he wishes to have a better acquaintance with those whose man- ners have not been changed by a communication with Europeans. 1 shall write ag opportunity and matter invite me. What follows, therefore, will be a rec-tal of our voyage. We proceeded up the Pe. ce River, along a chain of lakes, the largest of which is the Athabasca, and passed by Peace Point, which J/ )urnal at this 1 it at a great re setting otf ioiant expcdi- Roscberry is )lisbing a pro- bit those parts, ^rd, to the Pa- he motive that ce — curiosity, have seen the s and Canada, t he wishes to ise >vhosc man- ommunication matter invite |l be a recUal lup the Pc^ce Irgest of which Peace Point, which which received its name by a of trcaly of peace being held there between the Knistencaux and Beaver Indians; as did tlie Slave River, from the conquests of the Knisteneaux, who drove the inhabitants near Portage la Loche to a distance, and then called them slaves. A fall of twenty feet obliged us to nnload our canoes, aiul carry them and our luggage across a carrying place. The country we had hitherto passed was low, swampy (ground, well clothed with wood. The banks of the river, between this place and Mr. Mackenzie's establishment, were generally lofty, and produce cypress, arrow-wood, and thorn trees. On either . side of the river, though not within sight of it, are extensive plains, which abound in buffaloes, elks, wolves, foxes, and bears. The Deer Mountain stretches out to the westward ; and opposite to the establishment are beautiful meadows, adorned with irregular groves of poplar, and enlivened by herds * of various animals. At this place our ears were frequently regaled with the sweet notes of a small bird, not so large as a robin; the neck, breast, and belly of the cock are of a deep scarlet ; part of the body is of a delicate fawn colour; the wings are black, edged with fawn, and have two white stripes running across them ; the tail is variegated ; and the head crowned with a tuft. The hen is of a simple fawn colour, except a tippet of glossy yellow. The Establishment, or Fort, as these trading 1 jusei arc called, consists of plain boarded houses, for o rs for the accommodation of the traders in winter; end is provided with a garden, that grows turnips, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, and cabbages. It being now t!ie month oi December, and tiic frost so se- vere that the workmen's axes become as brittle as glass, determined us to halt here for a lew weeks. The weather was sometimes extremely stormy : hurricanes of wind, snow, rain, and hail, frequently confined us within the house ; a restraint that 1 found very disagreeable. Several of the natives took up their abcule with us, which gave us an op- portunity oi observing their customs on particular occasions. A young m.an, called the Swan, lost his father by an accident. He immediately retired in silence to his lodge, and fired his gun several times, as a notice to his friends, not to intrude upon his retirement, because, from his misfortune, he was grown careless of life. The wife of the de- ceased expressed her grief by cries and tears, and cutting off her hair. She then took a sharp in- strument, and, with determined resolution, sepa- rated the nail from one of her fingers, and forced back the flesh beyond the first joint, which she cut off. On expressing my astonishment, she bhowed me that she had lost the first joint of her two other fingers, as tokens of grief for the death of two of her sons. The men consider it a dis-h^vc grace to shed tears when they are sober ; therefore, they sometimes drink till they are lAUoxicafed, that they may indulge freely in lamentations. The < 1 r t t o n a rr s] 2i : Vl jtL !bt ;ca I an Iti woraeri va |als !sid 379 rs in winter; rows turnips, res. li being c frost so se- ■t as brittle as a lew weeks. [lely stormy : dil, frequently estraint that 1 dF the natives women arc the slaves of their husbands. Thev carry heavy loads, and perform the most laborious tasks, whilst their imperious masters walk by theii' sides, with nothing but a gun in ihci. hands. If a spot is chosen lor an encampment, the men sit quietly down and enjoy their pipes, leaving the women to fix the poles in circles, that meet at top like a tent, and then cover ttiem with dressed moose-deer skins, sewed together. During the winter they wear snow shoes, to enable iliem to us an op- 1 traverse the surface of the country, which is a con- tinned sheet of snow at that season. The frames ot these shoes are made ot biich-wood ; and the netting, of thongs of deer-skin. A very sudden alteration in the season, from the severest incle- mency of winter to the delightful beauties of spring, gave us notice it was time to put ourselves again in march. Though the river was still co- vered with ice, the plains were of a verdant colour ; the trees and shrubs in bud, and some of them in flower. This was the middle of April. All things 'being ready, we set out in our canoes, and en- "nt which she ; camped where groves of poplars, in every shape, ' hment she ^^^^Y the scene ; and the open plains between them I iolnt of her i^*"^ enlivened with vast herds of elks and buffaloes. If for the death i'^^^^s^ pleasing scenes, which continued for miles, «;ider it a dis-'^^'^'^^ succeeded by high white cliffs. As we ad- s on particular the Swan, lost ediately retired lis gun several not to intrude his misfortune, wife of the de- and tears, and ok a sharp in- solution, sepa- ers, and forced ■i Iber ; therefore, Ltoxicated, that tntations. The women jvanced, a river falls in from the north. There are i^also several islands and small streams on both asides. We perceived, along the shore, tracts of largo i.irrrc boars. I was gratified by the siglit of tlic den, or winter quarters, ot one of these animals, Tiu-y are a fierce species, and called llie Grisly Bear. The den was ten feet deep, five feet higls, and six feet wide. Wc saw some straggling parties of Rocky Mountain Indians. Mr. Rosebeny prevailed, by presents aiid promises, with one of them, to ac- c(impany us as a guide; but it was with great re- luctance that liis father consented to it. ♦• My son, (said he,) your departure makes my heart painful. The white people may be said to rob us of our children. They are going to lead you into the midst of our enemies ; and perhaps you will never more return to us. Were you not with the chief, (by which he meant Mr. Roseberry,) I know not what I should do : but he requires your attendance, and you must follow him.'* The banks of the river were diversified with woods, clay, rocky cliffs, and earths of red, green, and yellow colours, which I think might be used in the composition of paints. In some places, rivers tall into the main stream; and in others are numerous islands. Poplar and u'hite birch-treci are common ; and tlie country is so thronged with animals, as to recai the idea of a stall-yard. The rocky mountains, with their snow-capped sum- mits, now became visible After toiling against a strong current, we landed on an island, on which there were eight deserted lodges. The natives had sight oi ihc lesf aiiinials. 1 the Grisly ve feet liigh, ; of Rocky prevailed, by them, to ac- vith great re- to it. ♦*^Iy kes my heart said to rob us to lead you 1 perhaps you : you not with r. Roseberry,) it he requires »w him. versified with of red, green, might be used some places, |d in others are iie birch-treci thronged with ll-yard. The capped sum- Itoiling against lland, on which The natives had 3S1 liad prepared bark for several canoes; and wc per- celvcd traces ot a road, along the hills where thcv had passed. Near it we saw a ground-hog; and in some places the earth had been turned up by the bears, in search of roots: and over the shore ho- vered two cormorants, which were probably watching for fish in the river. Soon after this, we had great dilhculties to encounter, from eddies, currents, cascades, and rapids, in the river, which was bounded, particularly on one side, by a range of steep, over-hanging rocks, beneath which the current drove our canoe, with almost irresistible impetuosity. Here are several islands of solid rocks, covered with a small portion of verdure, which has been worn away by the constant force of the current. The under part of tliesc islands is so much diminished, probably by the friction ot ice at the water's edge, that they have the ap- pearance of large tables, supported by a pcdcbi il. Their principal inhabitants are wild geese, which were, at this time, breeding and rearing their young. Our Indian guide alarmed us so much by his ' account of the dangers of the navigation, that Mr. - Roseberry, myself, and two of the people, ascended ; the bank, which was very high, that we might re- connoitre the country before us. As we passed J through the woods, we came to an inc!o£ure, '^ vv'hich had been formed by the natives tor snaring I the elk, which was so large, we could not discover Its 82 xjo:^ ( }0 F; its extent. After travelling for some hours througli the forest, which consisted of the spruce, birch, and the largest poplars we had ever seen, we sunk down upon the river, where the bank is low, and near the foot of a mountain, between which, and a high ridge, the river flows in a stream of about a hundred vards broad; though, at a small distance below, it rushes on between perpendicular rocks, which confine it within half that breadth. Here we anxiously waited for the arrival of the canoe. After exploring the shore, both ways, we met it at the entrance of the narrow channel, which our people had reached, after inexpressible fatigue and danger. An Indian was then sent forward on shore, to examine the passage, who returned, at the close of evening, with an alarming account of the obsta- f" cles before us. Our difficulties increased every r mile. In passing the foot of a rock, we were oblig- *" ed to cut steps in it, for the distance of twenty P feet, from which Mr. Franklin, at the hazard of his life, leaped on a small rock beneath, and received four Oi the men on his shoulders, who, with great labour, dragged up the canoe, and in the attempt f ' injured her. With the branches of a dry tree that liad fallen from the upper part of the rock, we made '1^^ a fire, and repaired our bark, which we towed along *'^ the rocks to the next point; though not without risking the safety of the men, who were obliged to pass on the outside of trees that grew on the edgeT^ cf the precipice. It now became necessary to cross rv^ the '^ II n Vi i !83 oursihrougli )rucc, birch, icn, y^'^ sunk ; is low, and \ which, and earn of about small distance dicular rocks, readih. Here of the canoe. s, we met it at the stream, where the water was so rapid, that some o: the people prepared themselves for swim- ming for their lives, by stripping to their shirts. Often were we compelled to unload, and carry every thing but the canoe over the rocks; and in- deed it required great exertion to prevent her from being dashed to pieces against them, by the vio- lence of the eddies. At length, the agitation of ihe water was so great, that a wave, striking on the bow of the canoe, broke the line; and filled me, (who was on shore, assisting the men in towing,) with inexpressible terror, when 1 sa^v the vessel el which our * . J on the point of being dashed to shivers, and mv ble fatiffue ana ^ , ^ . ° ^ , , -friends, particularly my revered and beloved Mr. rward on shore, _,,,.' ^ ^ • u- v a i •, , Jranklin, oi penshinff. INo words can describe ed at the close "^ ' i o ' , , , iny fecliniTs at that alarmincT moment ; but another nt of the obsta- f -' ^ ■=• ' , „ Ivave tranquillized my fears, by drivintr her out of ncreased every i >■ - -^ ° ,1- the tumbling water, when, by the united efforts of ,ve were obi ig- ,' ^ ' ' r »., the men, she was broucrht on shore, where we ce of twenty t ' ^ J f u,c pitched our tents, to tiive time for consideration e hazard ot his r » & • »A In the course we should pursue: for as far as the and received T f » ' • 1 ^o» fve could reach, the river appeared one white ho with great T ' ^. . ' , iheet ot foaminff water. Finding the succession in the attempt ] . ° . ^ 1 » 4f rapids and cascades impassable, Mr. Roseberry a dry tree that 1 ^ i' / , j^ wetermmed to attempt ascending the mountain rock we made 1 * . ' iith the baggage and canoe ; an undertaking that we towed along , , . ■ ui u r u • j . , ^ Bust have been impracticable, but tor the united rh not without ? i" At TJ u A ' , ,• J ♦^■Pi^raffe and perseverance ot Mr. Koseberry and iveve obliged to T & r / 1 Arr..m^» Franklin, who encouraged the men by their :w on the edge ^ , ' .^ , ^ .. ^^^ Iramp e and firmness to pertorm what many would •essary to cross F f the "*^ ^ 381 have deemed impossible. At break of day we ah started, and every man look an active part in cut- ting a road up the mountain. To accomplish this they were obliged to fell the trees that stood in the way, which they generally contrived should fall parallel with the road, without separating thcni entirely from the roots ; so that they formed a kind of railing on each side. The steep shelving rocks increased the difficulty of bringing the baggage from the side of the river to the encampment, as the first man who made a false step must have fallen headlong into the water. The canoe was dragged up the precipice, by having the line doubled, and fastened to the stumps as they advanced. Before afternoon the whole was safely lodged, with indc» fatigable labour, on the summit, where we per ceived ourselves surrounded bv mountains sii'.i liigher, whose tops were covered with snow. \\c took up our abode, for the night, near a rivulet that issues from a large mass of ice or snow. In this unpleasant march, we saw spruce; red pineiijct cypress ; poplar; red birch ; willow ; alder; arrow, j^.^ wood; red-wood; Hard; service-tree; and bois- )| ^ picant, which rises about nine feet high, grows in y,-^ joints, without branches, and is tufted at the end. ^^^.^ "ite to bottom, and is covered with small prickle: There were also gooseberry and currant trees an several kinds of briars. Our descent led us dow some steep hills, and thro ugh a wood of tall pin 2 \ h n \v so kl inl CO Ifai h] low )un Ati( of clay wc all I pan in cut- complish this it stood in the d should fall parating them formed a kind shelving rocks g the baggage icampment, as lUSt have fallen oc was dragged e doubled, and inced. Before gcd, with where we per mountains sii' ith snow. ^^ near i e or snow ice re( alder; Iree ; an' high, g Ifted at the < :kness from sma Up irrant tree ■nt led U3 lod of tall After all this toil and trouble, we reached the river above the rapids, without any material accident, and once more entrusted ourselves to the watery clement. There were mountains on all sides of us; one, especially, of a very great height. The river became extremely wide, and full of islands, which again changed to more confined boundi, and a smooth, strong current. W^ith some vari- ations we proceeded to a beautiful sheet of water, which was seen to advantage trom the rays of a brilliant sun sparkling on its surface. At the ter- mination of this prospect, the river v;as barred with rocks, forming cascades and small islands. '1 here was likewise a chain of mountains running indc»| south and north, as far as we could sec. We at length arrived at a fort, where the river separates into two branches. By the advice of our guide, we took that which inclined to the east. In the course ol this day's voyage, we observed a vast Mimber of beaver lodges. In some places the^;e ctive, sagacious animals had cut down several arrow-fecres of large poplars ; and we saw a great numbei t tham. The time which these wonderful crea^ urcs allot for their labours, either in erecting their uiious habitations, or providing food, is the whok» Uerval between the rising and the setting sun. i late, the weather had been extremely cold: it |ow suddenly changed to a degree of heat that wc und overpovverii^g. 'i'his alteration brouglit ck our old tormentors, the gnats and musquitoes ; S and el row •y S() < t s n ai m 1)1 a an! we wf're frt'(|'iotuly iMCommodccl with licav . ranis and tlmri(U*r stcims. Having ali(M«ly passed beyond the knowledge o. our guide, wc were anxious to meet with some o: the natives, at the same time. Their parly consisted onlyll.i three men, three women, antl a few hoys and giile They examined us, and every thing about us, wilie\ the most minute and suspicious attention, dou»j)', ing yet whether wc were friends or enemies. '1 '«c!^ had heaid, indeed, of wliite men, but had uover sA^r any before, which readily accounts for their aK^ijc on our appearance. Tlic tallest of them did .'■ir exceed five feet six or seven inches in heiMrr\ They had meagre countenances, though their fJbcj e .u aiul the rein. deer, dressed in the hair; and ol ihe moo sc-skiti, without it. All of them were orna- ri)uiul-h()g, which served instead of tassels. They If ie these robes over tlie shouhlers, and tasien tlicni \ wUh \icav I were round, which might he attributed to the har ol of a dingy black, hanging in k:ose disc/rdcr over ■ r inf<)rniati(v,l their shouhlers ; and their complexion was oi a )n^c to the seal swarthy yellow. 'I'heir d/css consisted of robes, \\ of lire, i^^i I made of the skins of the beaver, the ground ho^, appeared \A were shy, ar cs. Ai IcngiU mentcd with a fringe, and some of them had tassels opposite to u I ina their bo\s|'VNcre left hanging on those made of the skin of the ,is, expressing reter was sotil them we w'lwuund the middle with a belt of green v^kin, as stifF I onW from curj^s hnrn. Their Icggins and shoes resemble those Mr. Roscber One oi the inv' a knife from \ \iakinc with ^'■fte foreliead to the crown, and drawn I)ack in long onsistcd only llaas behind the ears. As destitute as thi\se people vv boys and giil^ of eveiy thing we lunopeans call condoit, V about us, W'liey wear bracelets o( liorn and bone ; and tlic m( a attention, douBily have the privilege ol L'Cing adorned wi:;i (.ncmies. Tlftcidaces, made ol the claws oi tiicgiisly or wluie ar. Tlieir arms are spears, and bows and arrous, lich, with their knives and tools, arc partly made iron ; a circumstance that convinced Mr. Rose- irry they bad communication with son'.e of the bcs that border the sea-coast; though tl-ey either )\ the other tribes. Tlie w omen s dress is mud h e sdiTic, exec pt tlj id jc ancution ot an anron f 'P that Ic'dchc;'. to the knees. 1 heir liair is divided from bu^.hjdaovcrsc| for their a ilS o in f tlicm ches in tUongUtbciv did hci^ f. V S 2 could cuulJ not, or were unwilling to direct our course rhltlicr. Bribes at length prevailed with one of them to join our party, as a guide. They showed us snares made oi green skin, cut to the size ot sturgeon twine; and though, when a number of them are twisted together, they do not exceed the thickness of a cod-line, yet they are strong enough to hold a moose-deer. Their nets and fishingr lines are made ot willow-bark and nettles. \Vc parted in a friendly manner, which was mutually expressed by presents. They gave us some trout, and two quivers of excellent arrows, which wep repaid in beads and pemican. Wc again embark ?'' ed, with our new guide, who regarded Mr. Rosc|"' berry as a being of a superior nature, whom he wat^^ IjQiinH ♦ /-» /-»r»oir • 'in iiif^ci tliaf ttrac ^'/»rtr /^ r\ti ^»^^'. and ahlcr. Here we reached the source ot They showed ' 1 • ,,i Uniiffah, or Peace River, which, aft^r a wiiiiiru'' to the size ot J ^ ' ' h 1 ,1 'Course throuG;h a vast extent ot country, receivirit' en a number ol ^ ;» 1 ,\,„ many Iar«M*t«g^'«n I'nh tlic SAU\G the fore mail rec, ill hopes ch was their lie was jerked - of violence vl^ clanger was jiiire iiuo his ramc across a cs in the bol- coming ibt on held fast to it. veral hundred ot being over- MS nearly ex- nk deaili inevi- d a small eddy, e resting on the arther progress; : for assistance, an unhurt, v/e 1 Roseberry was not to be shaken. They bc^th were detcrniined to overcome every obstacle within ilic. power of man to subdue. 1 hey consoled the p.-o- pie, who were ready to despair, with kind iitic ri- lions ; and alleviated ilieir fatigue wlthre-t, ami t!.i- best refreshments iliev couid provide. When thev were well recruited, they animated their drof)ping courage by exhortations, aiul well-timed praises of ihcir p-t.= t courage, which, with, the luuspcct of sdou leaching a smoother river, had such an cHcct, thdt t!:ev declared thev were readv to 1(j!1uvV wherever ll;cv would lead t!ic:n. Onr fir-t eiv.nlovn.ent was to seek for bark t() rcj-dr our canoe ; a t< ■ f; j.ot eflected without di[iicuit\'. Sevci'-.! t.i'is in tlic river, arul the obsttuctiou of trees that laid acro.iS ir, rendered a passage unpraciicul^'c for miles; and every man v. ;:s i.hligcd t ) as.dst in car- rying the canoe arul t!:e lading ihrongh a low, su'anipy country, their icet irequenth- s"icking in quagm.ires of mud. Wearied witn this I.^S.ruju, cxcrtioUj we sometimes ventured tu put li.e e.i:,i;o ianfrer. Tb.eLinto the water"; but her progress Wds siuui i nier- e scarcely con- deserved : our iier useful ani- ls accident, ani Infit for service would have f re d Mr "iien it means o mklin an Roseberi ;iupted by the drift wood and prostrate trets, which ^compelled us to advance alternately by land and water, accordinj^ to circumstances, till we lov- i lully ariivcd on the bank ot a navigable river, m the west side of the first great range of mouii- ains. Here I will close this part of my narrative, linking it will be more convenient to you to di- S 4 vid'j i],;, 3«JC> vide it. In another letter, I shall relate the fu- tare events of our journey. Adieu. Ever your affectionate ARTHUR MIDDLETON LETTER XLIV. Jvlhur Mlddkton to hLs Brother Edixifi. Tacoutchc Ttsscy or Colninlia. H ^ My DEAR Brother, * . THE ex<:essive fatigues we had lately q undergone made it necessary to halt, to recruit the strength and spirits of our men. Mr. Rose- berry wa«?, however, anxious to re-embark as soon as possible. The country, for some time, was rather low, and our view confined by woods, at a small distance from the banks. A little beyond, tlie river divided into two branches. We followed t!ie most westerly course, and had not proceeded far before clouds of thick smoke rose from th ivoods, accompanied with a strong odour of the gum of cypress and the spruce fir; but notwith- standing that, we saw none of the natives. Tlie banks here are composed of high white cli{f> crowned with pinnacles in very grotesque shapes that, with the assistance of a lively imaginatio o mi nJ J M jlate the fu- Ever your miglitbe compared to a succession of Gothic towcrSr whilst the river at their base tumbled in cascades^ and impetuous whirlpools, that complete the ro- mantic scenery. This irregularity in the river DLETON once more obliged us to coi bark f.s'5c', or Columbia- we bad lately jalt, to recruit . Mr. Rose- Icmbark as soon lome time, was by woods, at little beyond We foUowc ecdc not proc rose from tb( odour of tb but notwi natives. rh white clil [otesque shap \\y imaginati* ?y our crazy bark on the men'^s shoulders for more tlian half a mile,. over a most rugged, rocky hill. After this fatigue, we partook, with our brave fellows, of a refreshing meal of pemican, rendered savory with wild oni- ons, that grew plentifully on the banks, which' were overshadowed by lofty firs and wide-spread- ing cedars. Our Indians shot tlie largest of two red deer, which came to the edge of the water to drink ; and, from the number of their tracks, we suppose that they abound in this country. Many of the spruce trees had been stripped of the bark, probably by the natives, to make coverings for their cabins. The shores now became of a moderate height, covered with poplars and cypresses. \Vq passed a comfortable night under the shelter of aa Indian house, deserted by its inhabitants. It was of onsiderable size, and had accommodations for three amilies. Behind the beds was a narrow space,, little raised, for the purpose of keeping fish. The avails were formed of very straight spruce timbers, nd the roof was of bark, supported by spars, resti ng n a ridge pole, fastened together by the fibres of the edar. Along the upper part of the building wcie- xcd large rods, oh which they hang their fish to- try. The most extraordinary piece of furnituie S ,5 Ida ih m\g .T 1 594 left in this dwelling was a machine to catch large fish, of such unwieldly dimensions, that the house 1st h It ^hat must iiave been unrooted to let it in. it somew resembled an eel-bjsket in form, and was made ot long pieces of split wood, placed an inch asunder, on six hoops. A boat of the same material was added to it, into which the fish may be driven, when they are to be taken out of the machine. On a point, at a little distance, we discovered an ob- long heap, neatly walled and covered with bark, which we conjectured to be a tomb. Near it was i fixed a pole, ten or twelve feet high, with a piece of bark hanging to it, which might express some memorial of the deceased. Several rivers, from different quarters, occasionally joined the main stream ; and many islands appeared, on some of , which we observed Indian houses, like that I haveU i just described. The cliffs are of various colours|j and shapes. In one place they rose like ancient castles, of white and red clay ; and in another, the forms were equally grotesque, but of blue and yellow. We perceived a canoe with one man on seeing us, immediately gave the whoop, tol alarm his Iriends on shore, who obeyed his sum- mons, by their hostile appearance on the bank being armed with bows and arrows, and spears^ which they brandished, by way of defiance. Ac^ cording to our interpreters, they threatened u^ with instant death, if we should offer fo i*.»i< If iv ^a c i\ \v Ifi |w in II )e 39. , catch Urge lat the house It somewhat ■was made oi inch asunder, material was ay be driven, machine. On :overedan ob- red with bark, ,. Near it was b. with a piece I t express some al rivers, from oined the main ed, on some of; , like that 1 have ^ various colours rose like ancienti d in another, the' ut of blue and| man in it. whoj the whoop, to] obeyed his sum-' :e on the bank )WS, and spears k defiance. Ac ly threatened u Iffer Ui u.ad; and as a confirmation of that threat, discliarged a volley of arrows at us, which, however, passed over ihe boat without hurting us. As we stood greatly in need of iniorniation for our future course, Mr. Franklin ofiered to go alone to the beach opposite to where they were, hoping they would consider it as a mark of confidence, and an ofifer ol friendship. His scheme succeeded. Two of them put off in a canoe, but had not courage to land, till he had in- vited them by a display of looking-glasses, beads, and other alluring trinkets. At length they ven- tured to land; and were persuaded to sit down, and suffer our interpreters to approach, who as- sured them ot our friendly intentions. We were now admitted to join iheir friends on the opposite shore, amongst whom Mr. Roseberry distributed presents, and treated their children with sugar. In reply to his questions concerning the country beiore us, they told iiim that the river runs a vast way towards the mid-day sun ; and, at its mouth, as they had heard, white people, who came in canoes as big as islands, were building houses : that, besides the diflicultics of the navigation, jwhich in many parts were great, we should suffer ifiom the hostile disposition ot the natives, who Iwere of a ferocious character. This unwelcome ntelligence did not deter our leader from conu- uing his design. He: persuaded two of these eople to go with us as conductors, and prepared ur our departure. I should remark, that this was i> 6 a fibbing 396 a fishing party, but just arrived from a distance, intending to pass the summer here, for the sake of providing a store of fish against the winter. They were busy in making machines of the same kind as that we had seen in the deserted house. They were clad in leather, and had some beaver and rabbit skin blankets. Their manners and appear- ance nearly resemble those of the Rocky Moun- tain Indians. It was not long before we were again tempted to land, by the appearance of a subterranean house, the roof of which only could be seen above ground. The fear of us had driven the inhabitants away. They, however, appeared on a neighbouring mountain, in a menacing pos- ture, making the most frantic gestures, and holding their bows and arrows ready to shoot. Their robes were fastened round the neck, but the right arm was left free, and beneath it hung a blanket, or leather covering, which might be used as a kind of shield. After some efforts, we found means to gain their confidence and friendship. An elderly man, who seemed to be a person of authority, stretched out something like a map of the country, for our guidance, on a piece of bark; though he could not help expressing his astonishment at Mr. Roseberry's enquiries, as he said he thought white men knew every thing. Mr. Roseberry, desirous of maintaining this idea ot superiority, replied, that they certainly were acquainted with the prin- cipal circumstances of every part of the werld, bat fc 1 a distance, r the sake oi inter. They same kind as ouse. They 2 beaver and s and appear, locky Moun- ore we were (carance of a ch only could us had driven ver, appeared menacing pos- es, and holding shoot. Their , but the right lung a blanket, : used as a kind ound means to An elderly of authority, f the country, ,rk; though he ishment at Mr. thought white )erry, desirous [ority, replied, with the prin- of the werld, batl 397 but that he did not know the obstructions he might meet with in passing down that river, as well a* those who lived on its banks. Being assured from the reports of this people, who are called the Atnak tribe, that the navigation would be long and diffi- cult, if not impracticable, Mr. Roscberry deter- mined to return up the river, as far as the Nagai- lers, or Carrier Indians, the last nation we had seen, and then endeavour to penetrate to the sea over land. Our canoe was in such a crazy condition, that it was scarcely safe for service. A young man^ who had promised to go with us to introduce us as friends to the next tribes, chose to go by land, and engaged to meet us at the subterranean house : on seeing him again, he assured us that there was a plot to destroy us, or prevent our progress. Ac- cordingly, wherever we landed, the houses were deserted, and ev^ery thing left to our mercy, in such haste had the inhabitants abandoned them. A ge- neral terror seemed to have possessed them and our men equally, who were earnest to return home; but the firm composure of Mr. Roseberry, second- ed by Mr. Franklin, deterred ihem from their pro- ject. We passed a painful night under the remains of a broken shed, two of us watching whilst the rest slept. Towards morning, as it was my turn to keep on the look out, I was surprised by a rust- ling in the woods, and incessant barking of our fdithful dog. I kept my eye fixed on the part w he ace ^ 308 whence the noise proceeded, when I observed something like a man, creeping on all-fours. I called up Mr. Roscherry without delay, and it proved to he an old, grey-headed, blind man, who had been driven by extreme hunger to leave his hiding place. From him we learned that the people regarded us as enemies; especially as we had re- turned up the river, contrary to our declared inten- tion, and, from a motive of self defence, had aban- doned their habitations and dispersed themselves in the woods, to such distances that a considerable time must pass belore they could rally again. This intelligf-nce was most unwelcome to all our party, j* who wished to pursue the objects that first drew < us into the uncultivated wilds; as we w U knew i'2 it would be impossible to proceed without a guide, ijc and our young man had flv;d with the rest. Our h^ situation was, now every way alarming j our men jt were in ill-humour, approaching to rebellion; our ja provisions and ammunition ran short; and the na-tjl< tives were not only jealous of our designs, but de- termined ti) prevent u^ from putting them in exe- cution. We occasionally saw a few stragglers, ei- ther in canoes or on the shore : our entreaties to |b them were unavailing: they fled from us, as if they jpi were afraid of a pestilential infection. . jsj- The canoe was become so leaky, that we were un- pa der the necessity of building a new one. The blind ja^ man, whom we fed and won by kind treatment, di- \ reeled us to a place where wc might get plenty of jsy cedar la iir cedar and bark. Every man had liis part a«i^ \ liim, and in a day or two the vvorl; was fiii.sbet\ much to Mr. Roscberry's satisftjction. This gi\ • the men fresh spirits; especially as \vc perceived two mc:n in a canoe, who landed on the islatul where we then were, and one of tlicrn was our guide, who declared he never intended to diserti us,^ but that he had been all this time seeking lor his relations, who had been seized with the gene- ral panic. He was covered with a painted heaver robe, so that we scarcely knew him in this new garb. During our stay on the island, wc were in- expressibly teased by the sand-fly, and were oblig- ed to be put on the short allowance of two meals a-day. One of our repasts was composed at the Idried rows of fish, pounded and boiled in water, the rest. Our Ithickened with a small quantity of flour and a lit- mine- our men j^'c fat. You may smile at our cookery ; but use . rebellion; ourli^^d necessity reconciled us to it, and gave us, at n I observed all-fours. I delay, and it ind man, who r to leave his that the people as we had re- declared inten- nce, had aban- sed themselves a considerable Uy again. This 3 all our party, that first drew we w \\ knew ^'itho'U a guide, I . , . . . Ileast, the advantage of the habit of moderation, iand contentment with plain fare, which is valuable lin every situation of life, stragglers, ci- Ij ^^^ ^^^^ some difficulty in repassing the rapids, r entreaties to jhut not so great as before. We fell in with a jparty of the Nascud Denee Indians, whose friend- iship was secured by our guide, wlio, as a reward |tar his fidelity, was dressed by Mr. Roseberry in |a jacket, trowsers, and European hat. i I Here we were obliged to leave our canoe, with such things as were too bulky to cany on our cedar backs. rt; and the na esigns, but de- ,g them in exe- >m us, as if they Ion. [hat we were un- lonc. The blind Id treatment, di- 400 backs. In order to preserve them against our re- turn, wc erected a sort of stage, on which the ca- noe was placed bottom upwards, and defended from the sun by branches of trees. Near it was built a long square of logs, to contain the rest of our treasure. Having taken these precautions, we set out on our perilous journey by land, each man carrying a load of peniican on his shoulders, and an equal weight of ammunition, besides his gun. The first day we marched twelve miles, through woods, along a rugged path, and were glad to re- pose our weary limbs at an Indian camp of three fires. A party trom the westward joined us, and raised our hopes by the assurance that it was not more than eight days journey to the sea. They pro- posed to send two young men before us, to prepare the natives for our approach and ensure us a fa- vourable reception, which was thankfully ac- cepted. We followed our guides along the edge of a lakc^ through thick woods, and without any path for some distance. We then crossed a creek, and entered upon a beaten track, through aa open country, sprinkled with cypress trees. At noon the sky became black, and a heavy gust, with rain, succeeded, attended with a violent hail-storm. The ground was covered with hail-stones of an enormous size, such as we had never seen before; and as the rain continued, we fixed up a thin, light, oil cloth, to shelter us from it, and under this covering we passed the night. 1 c t. e b ti Btc !p- ,je. ii Pi it jar Ip' ire 401 night. The next day we travelled along a level country, embellished with fir-trees ; but as we had seen no v/ater, we suffered from intolerable thirst. The natives that we now fell in with, bore a different appearance from any we had yet seen. Amongst them 'vas a woman, who had come from the sca-roast: she was rather corpulent, of low stature, had grey eyes, and a fljttisli nose. She was dressed out in various finery, such as large blue beads, either hanging from her ears, braided in her hair, or encircling her neck. She also wore bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, fler under dress was a kind of tunic, covered with a robe of matted bark, fringed round the bottom with sea- otter skin. These people appear to treat age with the greatest reverence and affection; for we observ- ed an old woman, who from extreme age was quite blind and unable to walk, whom they carried by turns on their backs. They are equally attentive jto the memory of their deceased relations, as ap- ipeared from a middle-aged woman, whom we saw learnestly weeding a circular spot; ann, on enquir- ing the cause of this care, from which our ap-. pioacli did not in the least disturb her, the by- standers informed us, that the ashes of her husband in continued j^"^ her son were buried there; and that she never igainst our rc- which the ca- and defended , Near it was ain the rest of recautions, we iiul, each man shoulders, and sides his gun. miles, through :rc glad to re- camp of three joined us, and hat it was not sea. They pro- i us, to prepare ensure us a fa- thankfully ac- edge of a lake^ path for some id entered upon |ntry, sprinkled became black, |eded, attended id was covered e, such as we i L to shelter us we passed the night. jpassed that way, without paying this tribute* of her ^regard. As we advanced, the country became more thickly 402 thickly inhabited. By ihc gcjod cfTiceis of our cou- riers, vvc had generally a hospitable reception, and were sonietimcs regaled with a few dried fisli. W'c fre(juciu]y changed our guides, few being willing to go with us a great way fioni home; but wIk n iliey reached tht extent that suited their conveni- ence, thcv tran Terred us to others, wlio in their turn escorted us as lar as tiiey ch.ose, or perhaps as long as ihey had an}- persouai acquaintance with the iidial/iiants. The West-road river crossed our path: we ford- ed it. about knco deep and a hundred yards wide. Twelve dreary miles we passed over an extensive swamp, in which we were often over the ancles; an evjl that was increased by rainy weather. In this part of the road we were struck with the sin- gular appearance of several regular basons : some \v.?re filled with water, and others were empty; but whether thev were natural or artificial could not' be ascertained. We arrived at the banks of ano- ther considerable river, abounding \vith fish, which alforded us an agreeable change of food ; game ot all kinils having been unaccountably scarce. We proceeded beneath a range of bcautitui hills; and beyond them, to the south, we discovered the tops ol mouu'ains covered with snow. The river be- ing too deep to ford, we crossed it on a raft, and then marclied till we reached two houses pleasant' ly sif.'aiod. A\'e entered them, and found them with- out inliabitants ; but as the furniture was not re- moved, r e ti k hi H ta It: » • id. Ph hi \ tei !s of our COIT- eception, and ried fisli. Wo being willing lie; but when their conveni- , who in their b'c, or perhaps 10 moved, wc supposed the owncis were at no great fhstance. Near them were several graves or mo- numents of the dead, which the natives greatly re- vere, and never suffer any weeds or grass to grow upon them. A little beyond we fell in with a party o^ Red- fish men, who appeared more cleanly, healtliy, and agreeable, than any of the natives wc had yet seen. They toid us ther«e W(. re but a few uaintance with I days' journey to tlie sea. They .shovveti no signs of alarm at our appearance ; nor difl tht^y express more than surprise at the sound of our fire arms. path: we ford- red yards wide. tx an extensive ver the ancles ; y weather. In :k with the sin- though one of our hunters killed an ea^le in their presence. A most uncomfortable succession of , lainv weatlier increased th.e diiliculiies of our jour- ncy : wc were often drenched to tlie skin, and oblig- Ied to halt to dry our clothes. This part of the coun- try is intersected with rivulets, lakes, and svvarips. Ali our guides having deserted us, we were at a loss which way to proceed; and under great appre- hensions from the natives, who, unapprized of our Mill lisiJ, >vi"v.>. approacli, or the design of our journey, might mis- ta!-:e us tor enemies, and treat us as it wc were £0. In this state of uneasiness and doubt, we sud- denly come to a house built in a verdant plain, near the side of the river. Mr. Ros'..berry, v; tli lis usual courage, entered it alone. Tlie women and hildren, on beholding liim, uttered the most hoi rid hrieks, believing they were attackcil by enemies, und them wiLh-|ii'»d that they should be all immediately mas>acred. \ man that was with them fled out at a back door, cfore Mr. Roscberry could prevent his fhght. A displajr food ; game of ly scarce. We luiful hills; and lovered the tops The river be- lt on a raft, in( louses pleasai ire was not re moved, i' 404 A display of beads and trinkets, witli gentleness of manners, gradually allayed their apprehensions, and prevailed with the women to bring back the man ; who, after repeated clforts, returned with a companion, who harangued us in a very loud tone of voice. The purport of his address was, that he trusted in our mercy, and we might kill him if it was our pleasure; though he hoped tor our friend- ship, rather than our enmity. Having conciliated them by gifts, the first man and his son agreed to accompany us; and, that they mifrht not be bur- tfiensome, they supported themselves by fishing, and the inner bark of trees, tb.at they stripped off with a thin piece of bone. This food is very agree- able to them, and is of a glutinous quality, with a clammy, sweet taste. Our path now wound over the mount'^iins; some- times climbing the steep ascents, then descending their rugged sides. The fatigue of this laborious march was alleviated by the assurance of our guides, that, at the termination of this high range, we sliould reach the ocean. We passed a number of houses, but never saw one in this country without a tomb belonging to it. Our present guides were very commuicative ; from them we learned that they sometimes burned their dead, except the larger bones, which are rolled up in bark, and hung on poles near the tomb. On other occasions they bury the corpse, and when the same fame fa- niily loses another relation, the remains of the t t a a I] a h, « ni tr f \v m m CQ rbe to wi wl lersoni 40. th gentleness [^prehensions, ring back the turned with a cry loud tone 15 was, that he t. kill him if it tor our friend- ing conciliated J son agreed to ht not be bur- ;cs by fishing, icy stripped off d is very agree- quality, with a person last interred are taken out of ii . , : . , burned: so that the individuals of the same family make room for eacli other, and one tomb serves a whole race through succeeding generations. The iacc of tlie coumry continued much as I last described it. We met with several rivers of dif- ferent magnitudes : some we forded, and others we crossed on rafts; though, if the current was not too strong, I generally preferred swimming, an exer- cise in which I am become very expert. We were joined by a numerous party of men, women, and children, of a most friendly disposi- tion, who said they were going on a fishing expe- dition; and as their road was the same as ours, they offered to travel in company, which was very agreeable to us. Their aspect was very pleasing, and their complexion fairer than the tribes we had hitherto seen ; perhaps because their skins were in a more cleanly condition. The woTien wore their e of our guides,! hair tied in large loose knots over the ears, and igh range, wel neatly plaited from the division of the head. These d a number oil tresses were intermingled with beads, disposed ountry without I ^vith some degree of taste. The men were dressed nt guides werel in leather, and their hair nicely combed. Every e learned that man, woman, and child, carried a load ol beaver- ount^^'.ns; some- en descending this laborious id, except the in bark, and loiher occasion same remains coating and parchment, skins ol the otter, marten, bear, lynx, and dressed moose-skins, in proportion to their strength, which they intended to barter fame la-|\vith the people of the sea-coast, who sell them to white men, that visit those parts, as they told us, o f the persoi 40G in canoes like floating houses. At noon we sat down on a pleasant green spot, to partake of our allowance of pcmican, with wild parsnips for our sauce. Whilst wc were thus employed, the leader of the party and one of his companions engaged in a sort oi game. They had each a bundle of about fifty small sticks, neatly polished, of the size of a quill, and five inches long: some of these sticks had red lines round them, and as many of these ^s one of the players chose, were curiously rolled up in dry grass, and his antagonist lost or won, ac- cording as he guessed their number and marks. The loser parted with a bow and arrows, and seve- ral other articles. A sudden caprice determined our new companions to change their rout, and transfer us to other guides; though not till they had increased our exhausted store of provisions, by a kettle of boiled fish roes, mixed, to the thick- ness of a pudding, with strong, rancid oil. These strangers led us through woods to the banks ot another river that flowed from the mountain : ihc coui ry beyond it was swampy, and encumbered with a multitude of fallen trees. Having passed this tract, we began to ascend ; amd though surrounded by mountains covererl wiib. snow, we were much teased with musuuitocs. Inlir. one of the valleys, at the foot oi a mountain, wc sawin'\ a great number of moles; and presently alterwardsjol perceived many ground hogs, and heard thcni i] t( w c a w Ft2 ;he whistle in eve 'y iircction, W e now a me d 3 in barrel: 407 saw tract ,..n , as on fortner occasKms, wont be- fore, to give notice of our appr.)ach to the inliabit. ants of the village near which we landed. The ex- pcctation of our arrival put them into extrem,.' confusion; and when we entered, they were run. ning armed, from house to house, as if prepurin:|| to receive an enemy. Mr. Roscberry, as our chief, walked up to tlicr with undaunted resolution, which quieted their an prehensions: they laid down their weapons, an. crowded round us, with the most curious attcn tion. Whilst we were thus pressed on ail side- iv s an elderly man broke from the multitude, and too Mr. Roseberry in his arms, which rather alarmellj us who were behind him: but^we ourselves werfii Jc( when we discovered that these embraces were dwn signed as a welcome: and, at a further toke n y robe ot sea-otter skin, and placed it on Mr. R berry. The duel, by his authority, delivered osl [ood will, a vounc man pulled off a handson^ic [r :ii from the troublesome curiosity of the populacftd and conducted us to his own house, which wkiit Va isl which we were desired to sit; whilst he and wv counsellors placed themselves opposite to us, ainai n t larger, and formed ot better materials tha rest. lie directed mats to be spreail befoie it, upj ipp( the people kept a respectful distance. In the spi bctwi 411 rbo are ihou>^l»i lit. iums, went be. to ihc >n habit in dcd. The ex 1 into cxtrenv. thev were run between us, mats of vciy neat quality were laid, wiiich served us for a table-cloth; and we had a small rojstecl sdlmon put before each ot us. \Vc were next trea ted wuh cakes m ade ot the in- as if prep inn: ilked up to thci: ncr rintl of the heinlock-trec, sprinkled with oil, esteemed a great delicacy by the natives. At close ui day we were permitted to retire to a t erected for us. lodi Salmon is their principal food, and abundantly Sll PP lieci from the river; where we saw thousands luietec A their anil ol tliem strung on cords, and fastened to stakes -ir weapons, ist curious fixed in the water T liev are as suu^rititious as ssed on a ultitude,an aiter.l their neighbours, with respect to the river, and 1 sidc-y would not sufler us to dip our kettle in it, lest the d tooMstiiell of iron should diivc away the fish. It is like- h rather alarmelly t!:at we often misunderstood their meaning, as ourselves wcrlnone ot oar interpreters un:.erstood ineir language; lanner by othtiilcon^equently, we could h.avc no means of convey ^^ •mbraces were (iw'^g "tir thoughts to each other but by signs. further token I The \v'hole village concaiiied only four elevated off a handsoiT»-oi-»ses, and seven built on the grouna; besides a td it on Mr. Rosfcreat many sheds, which served tor l;itchens and delivered •'•''"'g their hsh. The lour houses that were rais- ritv are i f at 1 engtii and breadiii 1 II f the populacjd on posti kiouse which \vllit-' ninidle were several hearths; which not only ils than i»\"aini the apartment, bui are Uicd for cooking the lateria :ai Ibefoie it, upf^-b I :k: whoie icugtli ol liie buildu)g is divided 'hilst he and w)' cedar planks into small apc.runents. On poles (osiie to us, pat run alomr the beams, haii!^ loasted fish: and the nee. In the sp-loof is covered with boards and bark, except a tew bctWi 1 2 upen 11*? open spaces on each side of the ricfcc pole, left t« admit ilie liglit atid let the smoke escape. Near the dwelling of the cliief were several ob- long squjres, built of thick cedar boards, an-i paint- ed with hieroglyphics and figures of different ani- mals, appropriated, as we supposed, to acts of de- votion, such as sacrifices, &c. There was also, in the middle of the village, a large, open building, that I should call a temple, though rudely built, supported by posts cut out into human figures in diflerent altitudes. At one time we observed four heaps of salmon, each consisting of several hundred fish, piled up before the door of the chief's house. Sixteen wo^nen were employed in preparing anc cleaning them. After the head is cut off, it is boil ed, and the flesh is partly cut from the back bone which is immediately roasted. The rest of the flesh is also roasted and kept for future use. As the last act of hospitality, the chief ordere out his own large canoe, to convey us on ou; voyage. In this vessel, he told us, he former!) went a vast way, with forty of his people, toward the mid-day sun, where he saw two huge vesse! full of white men. This canoe was black, anj^' adorned with representations of different kinds o fish, painted white; the gunwale was inlaid witl^^ the teeth of the sea-otter. We embarked in it, witj^^ several of the natives, and proceeded by a very rJ"^ pid current, interrupted by some cascades. \Vj*^^ passed a few villages and detached houses, *^^ whid V if i'j b 413 wTiich we occasionally landed. The inhabitants o\ one of them were engaged in diflcrent employ- ments. Some ot the women were beating the inner rind oF the cedar bark, to a state resembling llax ; others were spinning with a distaiV and a spmdle. One of them was weaving a robe of this material, intermixed with stripes of the sea-otter, • on a frame placed against the side ol the lioiise. The men were fishing with drag-nets between two canoes These nets are forced by poles to the bot- tom, the current driving them before it. Thus the i salmon are intercepted by the nets, and by tl.cir struggle 1 give notice when they are caught. Here the river is divided into numerous channels, ; which discharge into an arm of the sea. Porpoises, i seals, and sea-otters, were sporting in the water; and one of our hunters shot a white-headed ec^gler Ojt Slock, of provisions running very low, and" use. ! . ^ . ^ \\ - h'ef orderec ^'^^ natives we had lately seen not offering us a share ,o «« r»iiH ^^ theirs, we were obliged to make a meal upon a mvcy us on ou; i » o t he formerhJP°^^''4^^'^^' boiled in small pieces. The coast is IS people, towardr"^*^''^^^^^^ ^^'^^^^ ^^X^ ^"^ ^"^^^^» ^^^ appeared to !ce pole, left t« escape. IV ere several ob- oards, and paint- of different ani- i, to acts of de- icre was also, itA open building, ^h rudely built, luman figures in ^e observed four f several hundred he chief's house, in preparing anc cut off, it is boil- m the back bone, .e rest of the flesh two huge vesse was black, an IdifFerent kinds c was inlaid wit (barked in it, wit [ded by a very ra cascades. ^^ iched houses, w hie be tolerably inhabited, by the number of canoes that we saw paddling near the shore. We took our station on a projecting rock, sheU tered from the weather by one above it, and de- fended from any attack from the natives, by the difficulty of getting to it ; which seemed a ne- cessary precaution, as they did not appear well in- clined towards us, from the misrepresentations of T 3 a quar- 4 14 a quarrelsome fe]lt)\v, and two or tlircc of lils coin- rades, who inhabited the islaiu!^, and carried on a trade in cedar h trk, fish spawn, copper, iron, and beads, which they barter for roasted salmon, hem- lock-bark cakes, and cakes made of sahnon roes, sorrel, and bitter berries. Having conducted you to the ocean, I must also bring this ion-r epistle to a conclusion, and leave it to Mr. Franklin to relate the events that befel us at this place, with some further remarks on the inha- bitants. Farewell. ARTHUR MIDDLETON. LETTER XLV. Mr. Franliin to Echiin Middlcion. MacJuni'x's Out Id. My dear Edwin, IN order to complete our narrative, I must continue Arthur's account of our reception amongst the inhabitants of ihe coast ol the Pacific Ocean, v,ho are a vrry diflerent people from the Indians in the intcrioi parts ot the country. Their complexion is between the olive and the copper. Their st>iall grey eyes have a tinge of red; and their rccof Ills cnm- 1(1 carried on a ppcr, iron, and I salmon, licm- )f salmon rocs, ;an, I must also on, and leave it that bcfel us at ks on the inha- IIDDLETOX. Hddlcton. 'ktmic6 (Jutld. \v narrative, I our reception ol the Pacific ■pi e irom tht lounirv The ir id the copper. of red ; and their 415 ilielr hcad^ arc formed like a wedt^c, whicli ari>cs from the custom of inclosing the heads o[ iulanis in boards covered with leatlier, till they attain that shape. Many of their liahits and modes ot lite diiTcr also mucii trorn tlie interior tribes, as V(^u must have observed by your brother's acct)unt. One morning, as we were consulting on the plan of our return to hurt Chepewyan, a younj:^ chief, ^^'ho had accompanied us as a guide, approached our encampment, with joy and astonishment in his countenance, telling us that some oi our country- men had arrived in a huge canoe, which Iny be- hind a point of land in the channel to the south- west of us. And, as a proof of tlie truth ol thi? slory, he showed us an English halfpenny, which he had received for some small fruit. You may believe tr.ii intelligence was very agreeable to all oar paity. The idea of meeting, in this remote pjrt ol the world, people whose manners resem- bicd our own, and whose interests were the same, was an inexpres«;ible pleasure. Wc soon followed the young chief to the shtjre, where we saw a boat full of white men, attempting to land; and amongst the busiest of the crew, a ne- gro, in whom Arthur soon recognized his faithful Sancho. The vessel was an American trader, from the port ol Salem ; and the object of ilie voyage, the skins of the sea-otter, which they purposed to dispose ol at Canton in China. Sancho had in- vested his little capital in a share of the cargo; and in ii6 in order to traffic with it to the best advantage, jnade the voyage in person. The interchange of ex- pressions of regard and satisfaction, between Arthur -jnd Sancho, I leave you to imagine. They had no sooner landed, than tlie natives Socked about them ; and, from our united num- bers, treated us with more respect than they had ^one before their arrival. A traffic now took place between these strancers and the natives. The fori ige colh ibl( .f •mer collected a consicl otter- skins, to which they added those of some €thcr animals ; whilst the ship*s crew displayed an ^Assortment of knives, scissars, looking-glasses, guns, iron pots and kettles, and other utensils for domestic purposes, besides trinkets and bcadi. Whilst they were making their bargains, it occur- rfd to me, that if, by the good ofTices of Sanclio, Arthur and 1 could procure a passage to Canton, it was likely we should njtet there with an India- 4nan, that would convey us to our native country ; as we had now explored the principal civilized •parts of North America, and I had no inciiiiation to return through th«s same uncultivated tract that we had lately passed horn Fort Chepcwyan. I telt a reluctance in leaving Mr. Roseberry to strug- gle with the diflicultics of such a journey alone ; but he was so well convinced ot the propriety of the mciisurc, that he ovcr-rulcd my scruples. The captain is a svcll disposed man, and readily agrees wi'Ji our propos?.}. If the wind be fair, wc shall sail i i )est advantage, jrchange oi ex- betwecn Arthur lan the natives ir united num- ihan they had now took place natives. The nimber ot sca- those of some :w displayed an ookir)g-glasses, her utensils tor cts and bcad^. gains, it occur- [:es of Sanclio, j^o to Canton, with an India- tivc country ; ipal civilized no incii:iation ated tract that c'.vyan. I telt crry to strug- ourncy alone ; c propriety oi criiples. The readily agrees lair, \vc shall sail 417 sail in a few days; and leave this continent, which has presented us with such a succession of diffe- rent scenes, perhaps, for ever. A recapitulation of the leading features of the chief districts of the country, may not be amiss, after the minute recitals you have received of our travels, in this long and varied excursion. The southern states are rich in vegetable pro- ductions, and abound in animals of various kinds. They are inhabited by cultivators of tobacco, rice, and corn, who enjoy, in a luxurious mode of life, the produce of the labour of the wretched negro slave. The newly established settlements to the westward are furnished liberally with natural productions. They possess a warm climate, immense forests, and magiiificent rivers. The staple commodity is cotton, which is easily raised by the inhabitants, whose manners are simple and laborious, and who h'el an independence, from the equality of their condition. Vast tracts ot this country are occu- pied by Indian nations, who are supported by the labours ot the chace. The middle provinces are in a high state of cul- tivation, and present many large, populous towns, grown rich by trade, manufactures, and commerce. The useful arts of life, in great variety, occupy and enrich the people; who are more polished and luxurious than those who live to the westward of the Allegany Mountains, but less so than the wealthy planters of the southern states. T 4 Th^ 418 The eastern coast is a woody, unfertile tract, yielding pasture to numerous flocks of cattle, winch, with the limber ot the forests, and the fish of the ocean, form the treasures and occupation of a hardy race of men, who are either graziers, wood- cutters, or sailors. The lakes, rivers, and cataracts of Canada, arc on th( g ran dcst ;cale. Th e extremes of winter and summer are felt in this climate, but no middle season. The manners of the people, like their descent, are o\ French origin, and retain strong marks ot their ancient customs. A happy, social, lively disposition is their ciiaractcristic, and appears in all ranks, from the merchant in furs, (the great article of their commerce,) to the men who row the boats on the mighty St. Lawrence. The nu- merous tribes of liulians that live in the neigh- bourhood of the settlements, supply the Canadians with the furs of different animals, which they often j)rocure from vast distances, in the interior parts of the country. The northern portion of the continent that ex- tends to Hudson's Bay, and reaches westward to the Pacific Ocean, is inhabited by wandering tribes ot Indians; who do not cultivate the earth, but procure a precarious subsistence from the chace of wild animals, the fish of the rivers, fruits that grow spontaneously, baik of trees, ike. Nor would the soil repay the labour of the farmer; tor so ungenial is the climate, that the ground is never ih awc( unfertile tract, 3cks of cattle, its, and the fish d occupation of • graziers, wood- of Canada, arc cmes of winter ', but no middle ople, like their id retain strong A happy, social, Stic, and appears , furs, (the great I men who row ence. The nu- e in the neigh- y the Canadians .vhich they ohcn ; interior parts of itinent that ex- ■ es westward to vandering tribes ' : the earth, but rom the chace ; ers, fruits that es, &c. Nor he farmer; tor ground is never thawed 419 thawed at the depth of a few feet below tlie sur- iace; not even in the height ol the short summer that enlivens the dreariness of this barren region. The wind is changed in our favour, and to-morrow is fixed for our departure. Our triends expect the remainder of our time, which compels me to say adieu. H. FRANKLIN. Mr. Franklin and his young companion took an affectionate leave of Mr. Roseberry, and, with a degree of regret, departed from a country, where, in the course of their excursions, they had re- ceived many instances of hospitality, and had lormed a friejidship with persons ol woith and inicliigciirr Nothing. iiarkable happened in their voyage to Canton, except an accident that gave Sancho an opportuniiv ot testifying his gratitude and at- tachment to his young master and benclactor. Atthvir, being an excellent swimmer, was accus- tomed frequently to induli^c himself with a plunge into the sea. On one of these occasions he was alarmed with the approach ot a voracious shark, from whose attack there seemed no possi- bility of escape. Sancho, hctiring his shrieks, jumped into the water, and, fearless ot danger, rescued his terrifie.l friend, by his superior dexte- r ;v, and brought him on his back in safety to the ship This fortunate deliverance strengthened the T 6 mutual 4:20 jnatua! regard of Arthur and Saiicho, as each had received from the other the most signal benefit, and rendered their obligations equal j though there was still a disparity in their circumstances, which Sancho never forgot, observing the most respect- ful conduct towards his liberator; who, on his side, endeavoured, by every condcsending atten- tion, to diminish the distinction between them. 'J'hcy had both warm hearts, disposed to the im- pressions of gratitude, and were never satisfied with discharging the obligations they had received. Our travellers found an English vessel at Can- ton, ready to sail, in which they embarked, and had a favourable voyage to England ; where they had the satisfaction of meeting their friends in good health, delighted with their return, and testi- fy ing their joy by the tenderest marks of affection. Mrs. Middleton viewed the growth and im- provement ot her son, who was nearly become a man, with unspeakable pleasure. His sisters and brother gathered round him, each asking number- less questions, in too quick succession to wait for a reply. After the first transports were over, a calm succeeded, that gave Arthur an opportunity of fully satisfying their curiosity. The events of his journey furnished topics of conversation for a very long time, and afforded a variety to the amuse- ipents of this happy family. ITINERARY 10, as each had signal benefit, ; though there fistances, which e most respect- ■ ; who, on his csending atten- between them, oscd to the im- er satisfied with 1 received. vessel at Can- embarked, and id ; where they leir friends in :turn, and tesii- cs of affection. 3wth and iin- rarly become a !is sisters and ing number- ion to wait for were over, a n opportunity he events of /ersation for a to the amuse- tv riNERARY 1 T I N E 3i A 3^ Y. nilLADELPIIIA Xc'.v Jersey aad Dtlaware Tienton }{urliugtoii Dover \\'ilniinirtoii .Schuylkill, crossed Chester U ilmiiiCtoii Ilnvre de Grace— Susquc- haniinh Biiliiinorc Washin^tu. — Patowmac Geoigfc Town Alexandria I'all- of t!ie Patowmac Mou:;t Wrnon, the scat of General Washington Monticello, the seat of Air. J eft er son Hock Bridge Maddisun's Cave rassii;j,e of the Patowmac, across the Blue Kid^ Washini^tou Hoe's I'erry Vir«;inia JUchnioud— Jumcf lli\<'r V> iliiamslxurg Yurk II;ini])ton — .'aincs lliver N -'fuik — Jamci iUvof J)ismal Swamp North Caroliua rsewbcrn South Carolina Charlestowii — Aslley antf Cooper Rivers Kast riorida .Sa\ar.na Sunbury South Catherijic Islands Alatamaha Kiver 3'ort Barrini;lou Sc. .Mary's River St. John's River Su Augustine J.uke (Jcorg*; Tuskawila Territories of the Seminole and Muskogee Indians Tulalia-ioehte — St. Juan Apalachnela Talar^ee V\ e-st 1 lorida River i^chumbe. Tacnsa Mobile I'eiibacola i'earl H.iver Pearl ITIMJI.MIV. Pearl Tiland New Orli-ans lMis.'>i>'-ij»j)i Uiver Maiiclitic Tlie Xatciics Uiver IV'iK !-see Nu^li\ ille — Uiver Cumber- haul Slate of Teiie.ssec Uoarii.g Uiver Terriiory ■.>i ilit Chcrokecs Kiuji'to'.vn Knoxville Toir i>li)unt Greeiwiile JoiM silvJl'JUllh Alieiianv M<.)U!Jtuii»s Blue Kidt'c Mouutaii: of IJiiueville McM'^antovvu State (ii iveiitucky Ilarrod^hurgli Lexin.;ti)u Paris IMil'ii >};iir;:li Wasliin;;ttjii, near Ohio V()yaj,ii on tiie Uliiu Poiiii Pita^ant, uijove the JMoulh <»i' the Great Keii- hawav AlcxandiiaaiKifiallipoli, u\i the Ohio Marietta, v\"he(lin;i, Wr.-i J-ihrrty I'd'au, l oi.ll'-ieiKC of ..heOiiio and the 31 1; iiivihaiii Pittshiirc — rohfiucnce of the IMoiuinj^ahchi and Allej^u- ny Greenkhur^h Ligonier's Valley J.aurel Ili!i r>e(lf.»rd ' - 11. Jiniiata Shinj)t;n>burph Carlisle York l.ancaster liarrisbumh Sunbury — >ii-f!U('liannah N()rt!)nmlic.l:in(l lielhleheni, a Moravian Settle- ment Na/aret!i l^uston — Confluence of Lehiiih an 1 Delaware State of New Jersey llatelietstown -Morn-io'.vn — !l. Jiaiitnn I'all of the i'osaik Nev. Vork 1.' I..: I -land St;un!()rd '"•urilcld NewhaM !i -Miclbt'Lua llarund C. »(i"n>".-ticut vV 1 ,ond;il lillnU.' I:?blll(l i'lijviuci.ce Kiii*:i ni ITIXERARY, : — roiiilurnre of tlie i.'ytlicia and Allcgu- Jr^ili > Vail, •/ ill I )iir<:J\ ih •>"i^niK'hannah c. I.ukI , M Moravian .*^ettle- onflucnce ofLeliinh I ware c\\ Jersey k\ n L'osail; Kinghain Boston — (Ja{)^.tal of New Kn^land Salem ^t ' Marblehca.l * . (Jluuct'bttr C ape Ann < Xovvbury Port II. >I rriinack Portsnioiitli Dover Kxetor Dcrliani K. Pi-'"ataqua Portland Brunswick ^Vi.sca«set II. ICtnnchcck Peno)j>cot l}'>st )!) iMarliioroiiLdi K. C'oiMiecticiit Xortlianijiton (ir«'en \r.unlains ritt-i,!(l ilaut.ick Mountain New i.oljanon Albany C'oliuz Ilu.b on, orX. K'vtr >arai(jj;a I iivt L.ilnard Foil A nne Mcccni'slorou^li Lake C nu.iiplaiii 1 icuijueratio Crown P.jinl Caiiada St. John's I.a Prairir Montreal Sorelhi Quebc'.' Trois Jtivierc* 1}. St. Lawrence ' 1 C'liiue '•iianonaL'a \'ill - i"ikc of a thousand Island* Kin;j^>ton Lake Ontario NcwaH;, (,r Niagara Fall-, of Xia.^ara Fort ^ liijjj.eway Fort, Krie i.ake Lii" Middle Mand IJ< tn-it Ili\er J)i-trietof Maiden ])'froit i.ake ![(iron — .Saganunni iJny— ALinatonlin Isles Mieiiiliiniaikiuaek l.'uiuse of die Traders from La V lime to le to .Mieliiil *.uac- .inacK Purtatre de Cl.aud 1{ Rideau Lae cie^: (.'iKUifi leie u res Ivlni'haiu i'ortaL'e d. ^ ( J-irs ^'r.'ind C auiieet Luke C ouloniie K JvuTe ITINERAUV. HivitTC C reuse -, U. uu M«jine X.:ike N<'|>isingui U. tici 1 rangois Lake 11 (I run MiciiiliiinackinRcL ■i'ails of St. Mary I>akt' Superior (rraudc I'ortacc Lake dc la IMu'.Q Outarde Pnrtaire I^ke de \n Sncaigun (jalet du Bonnet Lake Winnipec jlcd Uivcr Portage de Truitt Port;ige dt s Murts Ible a la C'i'o<>se Portsip;e la Loclu? Fort Chepewjaii Peace Uivcr Slave Uivcr Great Slave Lake Rcd-Vnife Indians , Horn -Mountain Great Uear Lake Uiver liare Indians Quarrellers Uivcr full of Islands, discharg- ing its waters into the Ocean Return to Chijjpcwyan Peace River Peace Point Beaver l^)Ugc Mountain Progress westward OcciUJ h I I N i S. Priu(«-d by Win. Dznfon, uuil J. and J. n^r.'cj, tinicfchurcli-aii«.cf. la Loclu? liver ver ave Lake fe Indians , ,, >untnin :^ar Lake River lians iirs 1 of Islands, discharg- waters into the Ocean ) Chijipcwyan ver int oUgc ?>Tnimtain westwurti 1 J. Hiin-cj,