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 VANCOUVER ISLAND and BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
LONDON 
 I'UINTHl) MY SPOTTISWOODK AND CO. 
 NliW-STUKKT :<QUAUI5 
 

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FACTS AND FIGURES 
 
 jaor.ATINO T(l 
 
 YANCOTJVEK ISLAND and BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
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 AVIIAT TO EXPECT AND IIOAV TO GET THERE 
 
 WITH ILLrSTRATIVB MAPS 
 
 BY 
 
 J. DESPAED PEMBERTON 
 
 SURVKYOR-GENERAIi V. I. 
 
 " If, as I firmly believe, it is our duty to maintain our great anil valuable Colonial 
 empire, let us see that those principles are souni which we adopt in our Colonial 
 administration " Lobd John Russell 
 
 " I believe that much of the power and influence of this country depends upon its haviti^' 
 
 large Colonial possessions iu different parts of the world that by tlio acquisition of its 
 
 Colonial dominions the nation has incurred a responsibility of the highest kind, which it is 
 not at liberty to throw off" Kari, flnKY 
 
 LONDON 
 LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND EGBERTS 
 
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 TO 
 
 JOHN RAE, ESQ. M.D. F.RG.S. 
 
 rn|inn«P()N|)i\() MRMIIER OK THK (IKOflRAPHICAI- SOCIKTV OF NFW YORK, 
 
 ETC ETC. 
 
 My dear Dr. Uak, 
 
 I Avould ask you, in glancing over the following pages, which 
 I do myself the honour of Dedicating to you, to bear in mind, that, 
 as the circumstances of the Colonies to which they relate will neces- 
 sarily vary with every fresh discovery and political change from year to 
 year, and even from month to month, a studied composition would have 
 been but labour lost. 
 
 From abundant material I have endeavoured to select facts suffi- 
 cient to support the opinions expressed, the whole being so roughly 
 put together as to constitute a mere temporary literary structure, 
 which I hope at leisure hours in the Colonies to rebuild and reproduce 
 in a more complete and perfect form. 
 
 1 take the liberty of associating your name with the volume, not 
 simply on account of private friendship or personal admiration, nor 
 because you are familiar with and take a deep interest in the subject 
 of it; but influenced in doing so by this additional motive: Arctic 
 enterprise, in which you have taken so distinguished a part, may 
 be said to be practically at an end; the idea revives painful recol- 
 lections only,— of cold unendurable, ships abandoned, famine, and the 
 tomb ; and I had hopes .of enlisting those energies, deprived of their 
 object, but still unimpaired notwithstanding the hardships you have 
 
VI 
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 undergone, in an enterprise of great national importance.-tlmt of 
 connecting Englan.l. via the Canadas, Red River Colony, Sascatchewan, 
 British Columbia, and Vancouver Island, with Australia, by one uu-' 
 broken (^liain of commercial and postal communication. 
 
 That the undertaking, largo as it may sound, is far from being 
 i.npracticabhs will, I atn persuaded, be inferred from the evidence 
 adduced. 
 
 Rut it is to individual exertion and private enterprise that wo must 
 look for the realisation of the project, towards the accomplishment of 
 which it seems certain that <he interests of various classes of the com- 
 numity and the assistance of Governments will not be invoked in vain. 
 
 I remain, my dear Dr. Rae, 
 
 Very sincerely yours, 
 
 J. DESPARD REMRERTON. 
 
 
 Pahsdnagk IIousk, Ki;ns.u,i, (iiiKiix, 
 LoNPON : Auiiusl 2), istio. 
 
«n 
 
 wm 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Preliminary Remarks 
 
 tUlAPTEK T. 
 
 CHAP. 11. 
 
 Page 1 
 
 (Jeneral Appearance of the Country.— Suit Water and Fresh Water 
 Navigation. — Land : Proportion of Open Land and WaHte.— 
 Flora.— Fertility— Profits of CJultivation. — Stock— Timber- 
 Fisheries — Game.— Mode and Terms of Sale of Lands . 8 
 
 CHAP. 111. 
 
 Mmerak and Rocks.— Gold in British Columbia, Vancouver Island 
 and Queen Charlotte's Island.— Coal on the Pacific, Iron, Coj.per' 
 and Plumbago. — Limestone, Sandstone, and Marble— Variou^ 
 coloured Earths. — Salt Springs . .w. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Chief Towns of Vancouver Island and British Colundjia 
 
 49 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 iiistitut^on of tl^ Colonies of Vancouver Island and British Cohnn- 
 oa— iheir Irogress traced, and compared with that of the 
 adjouxmg American States - Their Con.merce. - Policy of 
 Lngland and Anierica respectively, with regard to their Posses- 
 sions on the Pacific 
 
 67 
 
Vlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 i k 
 
 i 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Routes to the Pacific — By Long Sea — By Royal Mail Line, or 
 vid New York, across the Isthmus to San Francisco, and thence 
 to the British Colonies. — The four Overland American Routes. 
 
 — Postal ...... Page 84 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Proposed British Emigrant and Postal Route to the Pacific, from 
 Canada, south of the Lakes, through Red Riv^r , nd British 
 Columbia to Vancouver Island. — Climate of the proposed Route. 
 
 — Trade with China and Japan. — Postal Communication with 
 Australia. — Conclusions arrived at . , .97 
 
 CHAl^ VIII. 
 
 Society in the Colonies 
 
 127 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 A few Suggestions to different Classes of intending Emigrants 135 
 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Journal of a Tour across Vancouver Island, from Nimkish River to 
 Nootka Sound, by Hamihon Moffat, Esq., in the II. B. Co.'s Ser- 
 vice ....... 143 
 
 Report of an Excursion from Nanaimo vid Quallchum, Lake Horn, 
 and Alberni Canal to the Pacific, by J. D. Pomberton . 147 
 
 Report of ai Excursion from Cowichan Harboiu: to Nitinat, by 
 J. D. Pemberton . . . . . .141) 
 
 Extract from Journal of Captain Vancouver on the Country in the 
 Neighbourhood of Point Breakers . . . .150 
 
 Report of Major William Downie of a Tour from Port Essington to 
 the Babine Lakes and Interior of British Columbia . 151 
 
 The Months most favourable for doubling Cape Horn fi-om either 
 Ocean ....... 154 
 
 Professor A. S. Taylor, M.D. F.R.S., on the Salt Springs of Van- 
 couver Island . . . . . .159 
 
^ 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 IX 
 
 Profe.ssor James Tennant on the Rocks of Vancouver Island, Page 160 
 Xaval Station of the Pacific Squadron {Times' Correspondent, June 
 
 1 Torso Racing in California .... 
 
 Law of Land Sales .... 
 
 Laws relating to Purchase cf Lands by Aliens 
 
 Regulations for the working of Gold Mines in British Columbia 
 
 The Chinese . 
 
 161 
 162 
 163 
 167 
 
 168 
 170 
 
 127 
 
 135 
 
 MAPS. 
 
 I. ^iap of British Columbia and Queen Charlotte's Island 
 
 II. Map of Vancouver Island, and Diagram of Esq WltTnd vfc - 
 tona Harbours . V rn 
 
 ni. Map of the principal American Overland Routes tf the 
 Pacinc 
 
 IV. Map of . -oposed British Emigrant and Postal Route from 
 
 cXntes^ ^^'^ ^^'^^" Settlement, to the North Pacific 
 
 • • • • . .127 
 
■i.i 
 
 { 
 
 
 ^ 
 
i 
 
 FACTS AND FIGURES 
 
 RELATING TO 
 
 VANCOUVER ISLAND & BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 I FEEL satisfied that neither preface nor apology are 
 reqiiked to awaken or revive the interest felt in England 
 on the subject to which the following pages relate ; but 
 I think it due to the reader, before he shall have taken 
 the trouble to read them, to say something of my object 
 in pubHshing, the nature of the statements contamed, 
 and the authority on which they rest. 
 
 In my official capacity, I continue to receive verbal 
 and written communications from a great numbei' of 
 persons resident in Great Britain or the Canadas, who, 
 as intending emigrants, merchants, or capitalists, requu-e 
 some detailed information about the British colonies on 
 the N. W. Pacific. To reply to these inquiries sepa- 
 rately, ana at the same time satisfactorily, is impossible, 
 nor can I refer the querists to any existing publication 
 containing useful, or even reliable, information. 
 
 To compensate for their scanty information on prints 
 
 B 
 
r 
 
 2 KARI.Y SETTLEMENT OF THE XORTII-WEST COAST. 
 
 of practical utility, such publications usually treat at 
 length of the discovery of America, generally by the 
 agency of Christopher Columbus, but some, by that of 
 John Cabot : they discuss the qaestions, whether Juan 
 de Fuca was a myth or a man, and if the latter, who 
 first verified the discovery of the strait named after him ; 
 whether this strait was the Strait of Anian, or if the 
 latter connected Hudson's Bay with the Atlantic; — 
 whether Perez or Cook first sighted Nootka ; of the 
 Spanish mine secretly worked at Hogg Island ; the mys- 
 terious cairns of the north-west, and remains of a 
 chimney at Neah Bay. All which questions I shall 
 assume the reader to have akeady resolved to his own 
 satisfaction ; being more interesting to the historian or 
 antiquarian, than to the practical inquirer of the pre- 
 sent day, for whose perusal these pages are intended. 
 
 No doubt, the story of the early settlement of the 
 north-west coast of America, with its thrilling ad- 
 ventures by sea and land, its brilliant discoveries and 
 appalhng disasters, its anecdotes of crafty Spaniards and 
 unsuspecting natives, hardy trappers and reckless buc- 
 caneers, could not fail, if well told, to interest the 
 public, and repay the pubhsher. This department I 
 leave intact, intending in these pages not to trespass 
 upon antiquity more than I can avoid, nor to revive, 
 unless it be incidentally and where the interest is of the 
 present time, even the more recent memories of the 
 sagacious Mears, or the indefatigable Vancouver. The 
 names of the early pioneers will always be heard with 
 reverence, although wiser in their own generation than 
 in ours, which is an age of steam and telegraph, of 
 marvellous invention and rapid discovery. Hinuboldt 
 himself, were he to live over again, would find it 
 difficult to achieve an equal reputation by dej^icting 
 
 v3 
 
 ■I: 
 
OBJECT OF PUBLICATION'. 
 
 3 
 
 a continent, the privacy of which is invaded by our 
 noblesse in quest of buffalo and bear tracks, wliere 
 botanists search for seeds, and labourers for gold, where 
 merchants travel, and where artists sketch. 
 
 It is my intention to use freely the published evidence 
 of any modern witness, where such evidence is prefer- 
 able to my own; so that this may, to some extent, be 
 regarded rather as a compilation of facts than as an 
 original treatise, in which the writer can have no other 
 object than to supply correct information. Anuiflux of 
 strangers adds considerably to the work of the office 
 under my direction ; and, in addition to this consider- 
 ation, I should feel much regret if, by any too highly- 
 coloured or over-sanguuae statements of mine, people 
 were induced to undertake an unprofitable voyage. 
 
 But I had another motive in this pubhcation — viz. 
 that the books alluded to, in addition to containing a 
 great amount of useless matter, not unfrequently propa- 
 gate very erroneous statements with regard to these 
 colonies. To correct these errors seriatim would be 
 too tedious, and would in fact amount to writing the 
 books over again ; but I shall select, by way of example, 
 a description of Vancouver Island by Colonel Walter 
 Colquhoun Grant, read at the Geographical Society, and 
 published by Mr. Routledge, bound up with some other 
 material and a few of the admirable letters of the 
 " Times' " Correspondent. The colonel had of course 
 no intention to convey an erroneous impression of the 
 itland, but fell into a very common mistake, that of ap- 
 plying to the whole island, which he did not explore 
 or examine, a description which ought only to have 
 been applied to a very small fraction of the island 
 with which he was familiar. It does not answer to 
 form opinions of any comitry on tlie expede Herculem 
 
 u 2 
 
THE COUNTRY MlSRErRESENTED. 
 
 
 !■:; 
 
 I'l 
 
 M 
 
 < 
 
 principle, and comments are futile where the ground 
 has not been trod. 
 
 The colonel appears to have formed his opinion on a 
 single excursion up the Sooke Eiver. That every part 
 of the ground he examined is quite as iniquitous as 
 he describes the whole island to be, I can vouch. But 
 within two miles of that river some very beautiful 
 country has been since discovered by the Messrs. Muir. 
 The publication says, " It is difficult to convey upon 
 paper a correct impression of the interior, the sight of 
 which, seen from the first eminence that he ascends, 
 causes to the explorer a hopeless elongation of visage." 
 No single view should have been so discouraging as 
 this : had the explorer ascended a second hill, or per- 
 haps a third, so agreeable might have been the prospect, 
 as to have caused his countenance with pleasure to 
 expand in the opposite direction. But it may be asked, 
 how is it that some others who have seen the island 
 have carried away a similar uniavourable impression ? 
 The answer is obvious, they have seen the island, but 
 not explored it ; they have seen from a distance the 
 elevated rocks and hills, but have not wandered through 
 the open lawns and rich valleys, which appear, in number 
 and extent, to increase with (veiy fresh addition to 
 our knowledge of the country. To illustrate this in a 
 familiar way : if dinner were on the table, and the ar- 
 rangement looked at from a point on a level with the 
 table-cloth, the mind would receive an impression of 
 legs of mutton and coverdishes only, and the intervals 
 of flowered damask Avould be unseen and unrecorded. 
 
 The same book abounds with absurdities hke the fol- 
 lowing : " Between Fort Hope and Fort Yale, sixteen 
 miles, the view presents no difficulties Avhatever to a 
 canoe ascending — except in one place, where there is a 
 
rORKIOX RRLATIONS. 5 
 
 rapid, which, liowovcr, is no gretit obstacle, as, close to 
 the shore, in the eddy, a canoe is easily towed past it ; " 
 the fact being that tlie steamer " Umatilla " has plied 
 between the points mentioned. And again, of certain 
 Indians, "they all prefer their meat putrid, and fre- 
 quently keep it until it smells so strong as to be disgust- 
 ing. Part of the salmon they bury inidergroimd for 
 two or three months to putrefy, and the more it is 
 decayed, the greater delicacy they consider it." 
 
 I read this passage to the infinite amusement of a 
 gentleman well acquainted with the part of the country 
 to which it relates, and who iiad six times crossed the 
 Rocky Mountains, without as much as hearing of any- 
 thing of the sort.* 
 
 It is impossible to do justice to this subject, without 
 considering with it the nature and extent of pur rela- 
 tions, commercial or otherwise, with the Foreign States 
 adjacent. San Francisco is at present the great centre 
 of commerce, and holds as it were the keys of the 
 Pacific ; despatching annually her mercantile fleet of 
 2000 sail, and 000,000 tons, to almost every port of 
 importance in the world. Our principal trade is with 
 her : Washington and Oregon supply our miners with 
 beef and flour ; Victoria is built principally with timber 
 from Puget Sound ; any spars of consequence that 
 have as yet been shipped by English merchants were 
 hewn in Admiralty Inlet ; and the only communica- 
 tions, postal or otherwise, to the country are by 
 American roads or in American steamers. And if it 
 can be at the same time shown, as I think it can, that 
 our natural advantages are in many respects, in point 
 of situation and products, superior to those of Cahfornia, 
 
 1? 
 
 * Dugald M^Tavish, Esq, 
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 6 KKSPONSIBILITV. 
 
 tliis consideration may tend to increased exertion, and 
 may i)romj)t lis to enter into friendly and not unsuc- 
 cessful comi)etition, to sliare the commerce which Sau 
 Francisco now monopohses. 
 
 Although, as I before mentioned, in point of facts 
 produced, these pages may, in part, be regarded as a 
 compilation, instances will occur in which I sl.»all have 
 occasion to express unreservedly my own opinions ; 
 and as I write, not in an official capacity, but as a pri- 
 vate individual, and in doing so violate no confidence, 
 nor use any information to which the pubhc could not 
 have had access equally with myself, such opinions, 
 if inconclusive or even injudicious, cannot do harm, 
 since this hypothesis would deprive them of force, and 
 since they are at best but the opinions of a unit of the 
 community addressed to the mass. 
 
 The substance of some short despatches of my own, 
 written to the secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 I readily obtained permission from ]\ir. Thomas Eraser, 
 the present secretary, to print ; extracts from them 
 appear in the Appendix. 
 
 In venturing to impugn the poHcy adopted towards 
 these colonies at their foundation, years ago, now 
 generally accepted and become almost hereditary, I 
 disclaim any allusion to the talented gentlemen who 
 preside over the Colonial Department, nor have I the 
 least ambition to identify myself with a class which 
 exists, I presume, m most colonies, who hold that 
 rulers at a distance are necessarily imperfectly informed. 
 On the contrary, I would be ungrateful as well as 
 culpable, if I did not acknowledge the kind interest, as 
 well as the intimate knowledge of circumstances and 
 places in these colonies, manifested by all the gentlemen 
 of the Colonial Department with whom I have had the 
 
 m 
 
rUDLICATlON NOT ILL-TIMED. 7 
 
 lionour to converse. In one respect especially they 
 stand on vantage ground : disinterested and aloof from 
 petty animosities and party jiolitics, their decisions arc 
 arrived at with a judgment unbiassed, and Avith con- 
 scientious impartiality. 
 
 Nor can it be said that these remarks are inoppor- 
 tune at a time when England, councilled by statesmen 
 of unsurpassed ability, cannot but regard with concern 
 the continued exodus of almost the whole natural 
 increase of Ireland * (some 70,000 or 80,000 a year) to 
 people, not her own colonies, but to swell the milUons 
 of the states adjacent, because they hold out to the 
 emigrant facilities so obvious and inducements so in- 
 viting, as, in the opinion of these, to neutralize the 
 benefit of Hving under the flag of Great Britain ; when 
 the necessity for quicker communication with Austraha 
 and China is every day more apparent ; and, when 
 want of population has more than once led the country 
 to the verge of war, and plainly shown that in launch- 
 ing this new colonial adventure upon the waters of 
 civihsation, measures should have been at the same 
 time taken to man the vessel with a British crew. 
 
 In conclusion, I would merely observe, that the 
 same reason that induces me to publish, — the scantiness 
 of our information on the colonies in question, — compels 
 me to make the publication short. No advantage can 
 be gained by diluting the Uttle reliable information we 
 possess. 
 
 * Vide " Times' " leading article, May 3, 18C0. 
 
 B I 
 
5 : 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 rjKNERAL APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. — SALT WATER AND FUESfl 
 
 WATER NAVIGATION. PROPORTION OK OPEN AND WASTE LAND. 
 
 FLORA. FERTILITY. PROFITS OF CULTIVATION. STOCK. — TIMBER. 
 
 — FISHERIES. — GAME. — MODE AND TERMS OF SALE OF LANDS. 
 
 I 
 
 
 General Appearance. 
 
 Steaming for the first time eastward into the Straits of 
 Juan de Fuca, the scene which presents itself to a 
 stranger is exceedingly novel and interesting. On his 
 right hand is Washington Territory, witli its snowy 
 mountain range stretching parallel to his course for 
 sixty miles, flanked with Mount Ranier and cidminat- 
 ing in the centre with Mount Olympus. Of these 
 mountains the base is in some places at the coast, in 
 others many miles from it. This range is occasionally 
 intersected with deep and gloomy valleys, of which the 
 Valley of Angels is the gloomiest and most remarkable ; 
 and eveiy succession of cloud and sunshine changes 
 the panorama. On his left is Vancouver Island, in 
 contrast looking low, although even there as late as 
 June some specks of snow may be detected on distant 
 moimtain tops. Straight before him is the Gulf of 
 Georgia, studded with innumerable islands, which, to 
 be seen to advantage, should be viewed toward even- 
 ing, when, as is often the case, the sun is reflected 
 from waters as smooth as those of an inland lake. In 
 the background is British Columbia, and furthest of all 
 the Cascade Range, and glittering peaks of Moimt 
 
 
11 
 
 HARBOLUS OF TIIIC PACIFIC. 9 
 
 Baker. At first siglit tlie whole country a})pears to be 
 clothed with forest, for it is not until we travel inland 
 that we iiscertain that in tlie lowlands the pines take 
 frequently the form of belts, enclosing ricli valleys and 
 open prairies, lawns in which oaks and maples, not 
 pines, predominate ; marshes covered with long coarse 
 grass, and lakes fringed with flowering shrubs, willows, 
 and poplars. Nor is the scene in the strait wanting 
 in animation : vessels trading with the sound, steamers, 
 canoes filled with painted Indians, enliven the picture, 
 to say nothing of vast numbers of waterfowl, which 
 awaken the echoes on every side. 
 
 Navigation. 
 
 It appears far from improbable that this strait will 
 ultimately become the great commercial thoroughfare 
 for the commerce of the North Pacific, and that Juan 
 de Fuca, when he discovered it 260 years ago, was 
 right in his conjecture that he had found the north- 
 west passage. This idea is strengthened by an exami- 
 nation of the ports which lay between San Francisco 
 and the strait. That this coast line, nearly 600 miles 
 in length, should not possess a single respectable har- 
 bour is a very remarkable fact. Of these harbours so 
 called a sample or two will suffice. Eetracing our 
 steps, Humbolt is the first harbour of unportance north 
 of San Francisco : so still the water, it looks hke an 
 inland lake, with .' country in the back ground of 
 exceeding beauty ; but the entrance is guarded by a 
 heavy swell extending for miles along the shore, and 
 by foam and breakers reaching far to the west. I first 
 visited it in 1851 in the steamer "Sea-Gull;" the steamer 
 " Preble " was a short distance in advance. The passen- 
 gers, from a disHke to salt water, or to avoid risk of 
 
10 
 
 HARBOURS OF THE rACIFIC. 
 
 ■ f 
 
 
 being Avaslied over, liacl gone below : tlie moment was a 
 trying one, as an accident to the machinery must have 
 j^roved fata!. Such an accident did occur to the 
 " Preble ; " she struck, became a wreck, and in what ap- 
 peared but an instant, tlie waves seemed to overwlielm 
 her and the spray to rise high nbove the funnel. I was 
 tliere again in 1859, and from the elevated roof of a 
 saw mill, in company with several other persons, wit- 
 nessed a very impressive scene. A vessel had got 
 entangled among the breakers, the crew had made 
 every efTort to wear her off the threatening shore, and 
 stand out to sea, but the wind was insufficient. Her 
 destruction seemed but a matter of moments ; a gal- 
 lant little steam tug, which had gone to the rescue, 
 was every now and again lost to siglit among the 
 breakers. At length success was achieved, and amid 
 cheers, which distance and the roar of waters pre- 
 vented from being heard, the vessel was towed out of 
 danger. 
 
 The entrance to the Columbia Eiver is not a whit 
 better ; it is the terror of navigators. I crossed it but 
 once, and then between walls of breakers ; the rudder 
 was disabled and the vessel cast away on a sand bank, 
 luckily within the entrance, where she remained three 
 days waiting for assistance. That the early navigators 
 should have failed to discover rivers, however large, 
 but with bars at the entrance such as this and the 
 Fraser have, is not at all to be wondered at. 
 
 Of the other liarbours within the 600 miles stretch 
 of coast which I have not nc < i(;ed, the traveller cannot 
 fail to remark the absence of shipping in them. Ves- 
 sels cannot remain long in roadsteads so exposed, liable 
 as they are to be blown ashore by a westerly wind at 
 any time s[)ringing up. 
 
STRAIT OP JUAN DE FUCA. 
 
 11 
 
 As to the commerce of the beautiful valleys of the 
 Columbia and Willamette Elvers, it seems certain that 
 an outlet for it will be found, by railway or otherwise, 
 through the valley of the Cowhtz Eiver, into Ad- 
 miralty Inlet and thence by the straits into the 
 Pacific. 
 
 In the few remarks that follow on the navigation 
 and harbour faciUties at and north of the strait, I sliall 
 avoid minute details, which those interested can fmd in 
 tlie admirable charts and sailing directions of Captain 
 George Henry Eichards, and those of Captain Alden of 
 the U. S. Coast Survey. 
 
 The Strait of Juan de Fuca is, on an average, eleven 
 miles wide, and is free from sunken rocks or shoals ; 
 its direction is east and west for about seventy miles 
 to its junction with the channels, which lead by a 
 northerly course into the Gulf of Georgia, whicli sepa- 
 rates Vancouver Island from the continent. The ap- 
 proach is safe for aU descriptions of vessels, being hable 
 to no other dangers than those incident to gales from 
 the south-east, which, with considerable intervals of 
 tranquil weather, are, in winter, not uncommon, and to 
 fogs, or ratlier dense smoke arising from forests on fire 
 in autumn. Although in tlie latter case soundings are 
 a safeguard, and good anchorage can generally be 
 found Avithin a mile of either shore. 
 
 The facility of entering and navigating this strait 
 has been greatly increased by the erection of light- 
 houses on the south shore by the United States Go- 
 vernment, and on tlie north by tlie British. That at 
 Cape Flattery stands 162 ft. above the sea, and in 
 clear weather the light can be seen distinctly 20 miles 
 off. New Dungeness is 100 ft. high, and has a fog-bell 
 attached to the lighthouse. Besides these there are 
 
 / 
 
 '/ 
 
f, 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 ESQUIMALT AND VICTORIA. 
 
 H 
 
 I I 
 
 lighthouses on Smith's Island, at Esquimalt Harbour, 
 and Eace Eock ; the last, however, is not yet lighted. 
 
 Once within the strait, on both coasts safe anchorage 
 and good harbours are everywhere met with. On the 
 north shore, thirteen miles east of Point BoniUa, is 
 Port San Juan, — a spacious bay well sheltered Irom 
 every winter wind. Thirty miles further inland, as it 
 were, is Sooke Basin : perfectly land-locked, and large 
 enough to hold a fleet, with the disadvantage that it is 
 entered by a narrow and rather intricate channel. 
 Four miles farther is Beech er Bay, and then come the 
 harbours of Esquimalt and Victoria. That harbours 
 such as these two last named should occur at the 
 limit of saiUng navigation is a very happy circumstance 
 for these colonies. The waters of the Gulf of Georgia 
 are well adapted for steamers, but, there, uncertain tides, 
 and variable winds, fogs, currents, hidden dangers and 
 detention, practically exclude sailing vessels. 
 
 Esquimalt Harbour has, we are told,* been selected 
 by Government as the naval depot of the Pacific : if 
 true, a better selection could not have been made ; for, 
 though not first class in point of size, it is capable of 
 holduig at least a dozen ships of the line, with any 
 number of smaller vessels, while, if additional accom- 
 modation were required, the inner basin at Sooke, not 
 far off, could readily be converted into a second 
 Hamoaze. In point of shelter, holding ground, faciUty 
 of ingress and egress, dock sites and warfage, Esquimalt 
 Harbour is without a rival, and appears to be the 
 natural port of entry for sailing ships which have made 
 a long sea-voyage to either colony, and to be the 
 proper starting-point for a Hue of steamers connecting 
 with British Columbia. 
 
 * " Times, " March 15, 180O. 
 
91 
 
 THE GULP OP GEORGIA. 
 
 1:3 
 
 Victoria Harbour is three miles from Esquimalt, and 
 although it cannot compete with the latter as a naval 
 depot or as a port for clippers, it is far from unim- 
 portant. Ordinary merchant vessels, by attending to 
 the tides, can readily enter, and, once within, there is 
 ample space and depth. The main objections to it are 
 that the entrance is rather difficult at night to find, 
 which could be remedied by a Hght, and a narrow sand 
 bar, which could be removed at small expense. 
 
 Tha c these harbours are connected with upwards of 
 100,000 acres of arable land in the background is a 
 strong recommendation to them. 
 
 To resume this question of navigation, I may men- 
 tion that one peculiar advantage of the strait, as a 
 refuge for sailing vessels, may be gathered from this 
 consideration — that, if a ship, running from a storm in 
 the Pacific, having entered the strait, should be baffled 
 in her endeavours to reach the harbour or anchorages 
 just described on the north shore, the winds preventing 
 must be fair to take her into Neah Bay, Calum Bay, 
 Port Angelos, or Port Townsend, on the south shore. 
 
 Next, taking a northerly course, we enter the Gulf 
 of Georgia, having the contested group of Islands either 
 on our right hand or on our left. Apart from questions 
 of batteries and Whitworth gims, these islands are of 
 no great value. They possess neither harbours nor 
 town sites of consequence : the quantity of available 
 land they contain is infinitesimal compared with that 
 of either nation, adjacent and unoccupied. Destitute 
 of fresh water streams, the fisheries in the neighbour- 
 hood are not remarkable ; and since, if either nation 
 possess these islands, they must, from their peculiar 
 half-way position, become a thorn in the side of 
 the American 24 per cent, tariff, it must appear to 
 
14 
 
 XANAIMO. 
 
 II 
 
 r^f 
 
 y'^ 
 
 persons who arc not diplomatists astonisliing that botli 
 nations did not at once decide the question by convert- 
 ing them into an Indian reserve, for which they are 
 pecuharly adapted. 
 
 Having passed by this group of islands, Eraser Kiver 
 lies on our right hand, and Nanaimo opposite to it on 
 the left; before us is Johnston's Strait, the narrows 
 where tides adjust their different levels in very violent 
 manner, and a meeting of waters occurs very different 
 from that which Moore has so beautifully described. 
 
 The town of Nanaimo, comprising as it does some 
 fifty or sixty buildings, steam-engines, tramways, and 
 piers, is very picturesquely situated on the north shore 
 of an excellent harbour, backed by a range of hills 
 some 3000 ft. high. The river is very pretty in some 
 places, particularly where tall maples overshadow it. 
 Li the harbour and rivers salmon abound, and excellent 
 spars are found in the immediate neighbourhood. So 
 great are the facilities for shipping coal, that, at any 
 time of the year, 1000 tons a week can be removed 
 without inconvenience. 
 
 The foregoing is interesting, since, as recently as 
 August 25th, 1858, the Lords Commissioners of Her 
 Majesty's Treasury laid particular stress upon the want 
 «f harbour accommodation, and of development of the 
 coal fields of Vancouver Island; which, in the com- 
 munication referred to, are assigned as their reasons for 
 postponing the consideration of postal communication 
 between Great Britain and these colonies. 
 
 If I were to continue to enumerate and describe the 
 harbours and inlets on the western coasts of the con- 
 tinent and the island, and those of Queen Charlotte's 
 Island, at least half a dozen, this small publication 
 would, I fear, read like the commencement of a geo- 
 
FRASER RIVER. 
 
 15 
 
 
 '* 
 
 graphical dictionary. Enough has perhaps been said to 
 show that the facilities for navigation in the vicinity of 
 these colonies is unrivalled, and that there is no want 
 of harbour accommodation. 
 
 Some, however, of the most important of the har- 
 bours omitted in the foregoing I shall have occasion 
 to touch upon farther on incidentally. 
 
 Of those deep salt water inlets, with which the coast 
 abounds, I may here mention two peculiarities. At 
 the head of every one of those that I have ever visited 
 a fresh-water stream is found. The second peculiarity 
 is the frequency in them of gorges or contractions, 
 through which, as the tide rises or falls, the water rushes 
 with great violence. Some of these will, I have no 
 doubt, be found valuable as water powers, although at 
 present, skilled labour is too dear to make them so, and 
 capital better expended on a steam engine. Which- 
 ever way the tide might rush, a turbine fixed in one of 
 these gorges would work uniformly. 
 
 Having water communication still in view, and re- 
 collecting that British Columbia is heavily timbered, 
 and no direct main roads are as yet hewn through the 
 forest into the interior, on looking at the map we are 
 struck by the fact that the Eraser Eiver and the Colum- 
 bia are the only avenues through which the country 
 can be penetrated, if we except the natural passes in 
 the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 Traversing the country diagonally from corner to 
 corner, 1000 miles in length, in volume and velocity. 
 Eraser River fully equals the Columbia, which it also 
 resembles in the sand bar, occupying an area of fifty 
 square miles at the entrance ; less dangerous only 
 because the long swell of the Pacific is in corrupted by 
 the chain of islands intercepting it. As it is, sailing 
 
' US 
 
 16 
 
 HARRISON AND LILOOETTK RIVERS. 
 
 w 
 
 If ,• i . 
 
 \\ 
 
 U 
 
 vessels constantly miss the channel and ground on it : 
 II at high water, they are lightened to get them of!'; if at 
 low water, the rising tide sets them free. On account 
 of the softness of the bottom, injury in such cases is 
 seldom sustained. 
 
 For nearly a hundred miles from its entrance, as far 
 at least as Hope, Fraser is navigable for steamers. In 
 the middle of summer, when swollen by the melting 
 snows of the Rocky Mountains, in which it rises, th«j 
 water is highest, and the current, often six knots an 
 hour, swiftest. 
 
 Twelve miles farther, at Yale, the rapids commence, 
 and from that point to its junction with Thomson's 
 Eiver, some fifty-five miles, Fraser Eiver presents a 
 spectacle of exceeding grandeur, more interesting, how- 
 ever, to the artist than the navigator. Here, avoided by 
 trails often thousands of feet above its level, white with 
 foam, and impatient of confinement, the river is seen 
 bursting through the walls of the mountain passes. 
 
 It was in order to avoid this portion of the river 
 that the Harrison River and Lilooette route, 108 miles 
 in length, was adopted, by which the traveller can reach 
 a point north of the confluence of the Fraser and 
 Thomson Rivers, by a succession of rivers, lakes, and 
 trails, which, though rather circuitous, do not present 
 difficulties so great as the portion of the Fraser de- 
 scribed, the head of Harrison lake being the limit of 
 steam navigation. 
 
 Entering the country by the Columbia, steamers 
 take the traveller as far as the Cascades or Balls, and 
 thence, by the continuous valleys of the Okanagan and 
 Similkameen Rivers, the valley of the Thomson is 
 reached. 
 
 The interior of British Columbia is everywhere in- 
 
LAND. 
 
 17 
 
 ■a 
 
 :a 
 
 tersected by natural water communications, in whicli 
 respect it greatly resembles the Canadas. 
 
 Having thus taken an imperfect survey of the waters 
 in the vicinity of the colonies, let us next take a glance 
 at the land. 
 
 Land. 
 
 In area British Columbia, as the boundaries are at 
 present arranged *, is about three and a half times as 
 large as Great Britain, and Vancouver Island about 
 half the size of Ireland. With a coast-hne of 500 
 miles, and 400 miles in width, varying in elevation 
 from nothing to 16,000 feet above tlie sea, and com- 
 posed, as this country is, of lake and mountain, forest, 
 marsh and prairie, frequently alternating ; in these 
 colonies, as might be expected, the greatest diversity 
 of soil and climate is met with. As the latter has 
 been justly termed the decisive condition on whicli the 
 futm-e of a country must mainly depend, I sliall have 
 occasion to discuss it pretty fully in anotlier place ; it 
 may therefore be sufficient here to say, that in the 
 southern portion of Vancouver Island, and in parts of 
 valleys of the Frazer, Lillooette, Colmnbia, and Thom- 
 son Elvers, a cUmate quite as mild as that of Devonshire 
 is indicated by birds of bright plumage, humming 
 birds, cactuses growing in the open air, &c. While 
 lands farther north, or in the neiglibourhood of lofty 
 mountain ranges, reproduce not unfrequcntly the 
 climates of Hudson's Bav and Labrador. 
 
 \ 
 
 IS 
 
 * The entire extent of valuable land, eligible for immediate 
 settlement, near the 49th parallel, extending fi-om Red Kiver to the 
 Pacific, and unless by Blackfeet or Dacotahs utterly uninhabited, 
 would in area equal half Etu-ope. 
 
 C 
 
It) 
 
 ^KOl'OllTION OF rRAIRII-: TO FORKRT. 
 
 I w 
 
 
 
 As neitlier colony is as yet surveyed, it is impossible 
 to state with accuracy the proportion tliat the open or 
 available laud in cither colony bears to the waste : 
 generally speaking, the tracts of land which are con- 
 demned as waste and unprofitable, are such as have 
 not been surveyed, and exploration and settlement have 
 invariably led to the discovery of tracts of open land 
 where least expected. Of the land in either colony, 
 the portion occupied (some thousands of acres out of 
 150 millions), is so small compared with the whole, 
 that a considerable time nuist elapse before settlers 
 arriving shall find it difficult to obtain farm sites con- 
 taining a sufficient quantity of open land. In addition 
 to this, an ample supply of timber, for building, fencing, 
 &c., is indispensable in a farm ; and the quantity required 
 for fuel only, is siu'prising. 
 y^' Of Vancouver Island the soutliern portion only has 
 been examined, and it is found to contain 100,000 acres 
 of valuable farming land in the innnediate vicinity of 
 Victoria, extending to Cowichan, whicli again is found 
 to contain about the same quantity of open land, which 
 adjoins some 30,000 acres of open land at Nanaimo, 
 and plains at intervals are found extending to Cape 
 Mudge ; that is to say, for 150 miles measured along 
 the coast Vancouver Island has been explored, and 
 the capability of this portion of the island to support 
 in affluence a large population is admitted, while a 
 conclusion the very opposite to this is ariived at with 
 regard to other joortions of tlie island Avhich have not 
 b(3en ex[)lorcd. 
 
 Similarly, in British Columbia, open plains of great 
 extent are known to exist in the valleys of the Pitt 
 lliver, the Fraser, tlie Similkamen, and the Thomson. 
 At Langley and Kamloo|)s, tlie Kootanie and the 
 
 
 I 
 
SOIL — FLORA. 
 
 19 
 
 Columbia, and every addition to our knowledge of the 
 country tells favourably on the ratio in question. 
 
 The soil, where it is richest, in the river deltas, the 
 valleys, and the plains, usually consists of black vegetable 
 mould, six inches to three feet in depth, overlying a 
 deep substratum of clay, gravel, or sand ; it is generally 
 covered with a luxuriant crop of fern, which is very 
 difficult to kill and tedious to eradicate. The native 
 grasses of the country are of a poor Alpine character, 
 springing up early in April and dying away in Septem- 
 ber ; swamp grass excepted, which supports the stock 
 of the country in winter, but which is too coarse and 
 woody in the fibre to fatten them. This deficiency is, 
 however, to a great extent counterbalanced by native 
 tares, clover, and vetches, which are, in most localities, 
 abundant. The open grounds, also, grow berries of 
 many kinds, and roots, such as onions, kamass, &c., on 
 which the Indian, to a great extent, subsists. 
 
 In many places the wild flowers of England, and the 
 common garden flowers, such as lilies, lupins, orchids, 
 Szc, occur in profusion, and blossoming shrubs of infi- 
 nite variety. All that is known of the Flora is derived 
 from a few specimens, not a dozen, collected by Men- 
 zies years ago ; but as soon as suflicient time shall have 
 elapsed to have examined the beautiful collection of 
 Dr. Lyall, and those of Captain PalHser and Mi\ Jef- 
 frey, a cheap work on the Flora of the whole of the 
 British Possessions in North America, from the able 
 pen of Sir William Hooker, is expected. Sir William 
 writes : " The botany of the coasts is, no doubt, very 
 similar to that of the main land and valley of the 
 Columbia, pretty fully described in the Flora Boreali 
 Americana. It is on the mountains and the west coast 
 that a difference will be found." 
 
 if 
 
20 
 
 CROPS. 
 
 .Xii 
 
 in 
 
 ^ 
 
 y 
 
 Wliilo inentioiiing sliiubs, could not the nortli-wost 
 tea plant, which covers whole swamps, be turned to 
 account ?*— the leaf resembles tea, the llavour not bad, 
 and the efiect exhilarating. Some years ago the Hud- 
 son's Bjiy Company imi)orted a cargo, but it was 
 stoj^ped at the custom-house and, to avoid duty, 
 thrown overboard; but if tlie plant is quite distinct 
 from the real tea plant, it is possible that the customs 
 could not have prevented its introduction free of duty. 
 
 To the swamps we are also indebted for the cran- 
 berry, which, for preserves, is fast becoming an article 
 of export, principally to San Francisco. 
 
 I have omitted to mention strawberries, raspberries of 
 three kinds, sallal, bearberries, similar to those of Scot- 
 land, blueberries, native curi*ants and gooseberries, &c., 
 as indigenous ; important inasnuich as they add to the 
 many points of similarity which strike us on comparing 
 these colonies with home. 
 
 The fertility of the soil in the neighbourhood of the 
 gold-bearing I'ocks is veiy remarkable, juid is indicated 
 rather by tl^e production from ordinary seed of gigantic 
 roots, and , ogetables, and fruits, than by crops of grain. 
 
 Turnips as large as hassocks, radishes as large as 
 beets or mangolds, and bushels of potatoes to a single 
 stalk, are nothing astonishing. It is the same all along 
 the coast as far south as San Francisco, where, at their 
 agricultural exhibition, pumpkins 200 lbs., to 250 lbs., 
 and a squash weighing 400 lbs. have been exhibited. 
 At the house of an ex-consul at San Francisco I have 
 seen Oregon pears, to demolish one of which required 
 the united effort of five guests ; the apples being large 
 in proportion. These monsters are not usually wanting 
 either in flavour or solidity : although I must confess 
 my own opinion is that almost everything, in a new 
 
FHUITS. 
 
 21 
 
 'St 
 
 to 
 (1, 
 
 as 
 
 country, is wanting in intensity compared with Eng- 
 land. It is certain, for instance, that tlie game is not so 
 juicy, that tlie flowers do not smell so sweetly, that the 
 birds do not sing so well, and even the sting of the 
 wasp is more quickly forgotten. Or(»gon apples and 
 j)ears lUre in great demand in San Francisco, because 
 they keep better the farther north they are grown. 
 The Americans are an apple-loving people, and their 
 consumption of them is astonishing. The British colo- 
 nies are too far north to compete with the vineyards of 
 Los Angelos, or the peaches of Obispo, but they may 
 reasonably expect to assist Washington and Oregon in 
 supplying tlie south with English fruits. Orchards in 
 the colonies will be very renumerative. Those in 
 Oregon have the disadvantage of being situated in the 
 centre of the state, and fruit has to be carried to 
 the WiUiamette Eiver, and thence by steamers from 
 Portland. 
 
 An acre of land planted with 200 apple trees, 
 w^ould, at the end of three years, on a minute calcula- 
 tion, cost a proprietor 30/. to 40/., and the lowest 
 selling price on the coast, of an acre of apple trees of 
 that age, is 200/. Tiie intermediate trees are chopped 
 out with an axe as the orchard becomes t^o crowded. 
 
 Hops grow well in the country, and a brewery on a 
 large scale would pay well, as any one interested may 
 satisfy himself, by noticing the cargoes of bottled ale 
 and stout sent from England to that coast. Native 
 hemp (Ortica canabina) grows wild in many places, par- 
 ticularly round the Indian lodges. Some of the fibre 
 was sent to H. M.'s dockyards, and was there tested 
 and pronounced quite equal to Eussian. I should not 
 think that to cultivate it would pay as well as to grow 
 common crops, such as wheat, oats, barley ; but it 
 
 c ;i 
 
•22 
 
 I'KUTIMTY ACCOUNTED FOR. 
 
 M 
 
 might pay well to tnido it from the Indians at the 
 ])ropor season, and exj)ort to England the raw material, 
 as the ex})erimcnt above mentioned is sufficient to 
 show that it is not deteriorated by the voyage. 
 
 It iijis been soniewliere stated, by Sir Cluirles Lyell, 
 that volcanic rocks produce, by their disintegration, a 
 remarkably fertile soil : that their component ingre- 
 dients, silica, alumina, lime, potash, iron, and the rest, 
 are in the proportions best adapted for vegetation, 
 which may in part account for the extraordinary pro- 
 ductiveness mentioned : and we may reasonably doubt 
 whether the sandstone districts will be found to produce 
 residts so unexpected. The same idea is repeated in 
 the " British Quarterly " of 1851, which speaks of the 
 facility with which volcanic rocks lend themselves 
 to cultivation and to the natural growth of vegetation ; 
 and adds, that perhaps no parts of the world arc more 
 lichly cultivated or support a larger population than 
 the neighbourhoods of Vesuvius and j3itna. Now, it 
 will be recollected that the general character of the 
 rocks in these colonies is igneous or volcanic. On 
 the Columbia, I was nuich struck by the appearance 
 of occasional basaltic masses, crowning some eminence 
 above the river, rising above the forest, and at the 
 moment, from their columnal structure ana «;ime-worn 
 look, suggesting some ancient stronghold on the Ehine. 
 Mount Baker is occasionally active : in 1853, 1 noticed, 
 in company with others, a beautiful sheet of flame 
 issuing from its summit, and this may perhaps account 
 for somids, too loud for the crash of falling timber, 
 occasionally heard by travellers in the Eocky Moun- 
 tains,* and for plains, the surfaces of which are covered 
 with small stones, differing widely from those imme- 
 diately underneath. 
 
mH 
 
 COST OF tJI,KAi:iN(i I.AM). 
 
 It' 
 
 to 
 
 1, 
 
 a 
 
 The j)r()rits arising' from tlic cultivation of <fiaiu 
 crops and grasses are far from inconsiderable. 
 
 Open grass lands can of course be i)louglied up at 
 once, and a crop obtained. Fern lands require to be 
 ploughed in the heat of sunnner, in oi'der, by fermen- 
 tation, to kill the fern, and to destroy, by ex])()sure, 
 bulbous roots, such as crocuses, kamass, &c., for Avhich 
 purpose pigs make admirable pioneers. To clear pine 
 lands is not very diificult, being very resinous they 
 burn up readily, and are easily overturned, as the roots 
 do not descend but creep along the ground ; in which 
 respect, these trees stand like pawns upon a chess- 
 board. Oak is more dillicult to eradicate, as the roots 
 go straight down. Marsh lands are usually easily 
 drained, and reclaimed by burning them up hi summer; 
 these lands afterwards produce the best crops. The 
 cost of clearing an acre of timbered land may be taken 
 at 8/.; of the other descrii)tions less, varying w^itli the 
 locality. An acre of land produces from twenty to 
 forty bushels of wheat, or a corresponding quantity 
 of oats or barley, and continues to do so for some 
 years w^ithout maiuu-e before it is exhausted ; hitherto, 
 wheat has sold in the colony at 8.s'. the bushel, oats 
 at Qs. Hay pays remarkably well, varying in jnice 
 during the year from 8/. to IG/., or more, per ton. 
 
 For meat and vegetables the miners and the British 
 fleet, wdiich are supplied by public contract, afford a 
 ready market. Indians everywhere grow potatoes, and 
 carrots as far north as Queen Charlotte's Island ; their 
 plan is to repeat the crop until the ground is exhausted, 
 and then to clear some more. The potatoes are ex- 
 cellent ; and potatoes and salmon their standing dish. 
 Meat in the colony is dear, 1.9. to Ind. per lb., which 
 to tlie consumer is counterbalanced by the remarkably 
 
 c 4 
 
 / 
 
 V 
 
24 
 
 I.iVE STOCK, 
 
 h 
 
 1, ; 
 
 low price of teas, Aviiie, spirits, and cigars ; in conse- 
 (luence of Victoria being a free })ort. 
 
 Stock. 
 
 Of stock, every variety, good, bad, and indifferent, 
 can be procured on the coast. 
 
 Tlie American horned cattle are particularly fine, 
 and numbers of Durhams and Devons have been im- 
 ported to San Francisco ; the Spanish cattle, which 
 are tlie most nmnerous, are smaller, and very hke 
 the Guernseys at home. 
 
 Tlie California sheep are hairy-looking animals, with 
 long horns and long legs ; but they have lately begun 
 to improve the breed by importing merinos and South- 
 Downs, })rincipally from Vancouver Island, where the 
 best breeds are abundant. 
 
 The native horses of tiie coimtry make* admirable 
 saddle hacks, and are most enduring, but have a 
 singular repugnance to draught. The carriage horse 
 is constantly met wdtli. In addition to these, Cali- 
 fornia can boast of a breed of racehorses of English 
 t)rigin, thoroughbred or nearly so, and of great bone 
 and sinew ; they seldom run tlieir best horses for less 
 than foiu" mile heats, a })art of which, it is said, will 
 be done at one minute and fifty seconds the mile * ; 
 tlie original stock of these horses w^as taken at different 
 times across the isthmus, which, from New York, costs 
 from 75/. to 100/. ; and taking into accoimt how na- 
 tuial to the hoi'se tjie climate on the Pacific is, and how 
 well adapted to his development such a sod as that 
 which overspreads the valleys of Santa Clara and San 
 
 * This may bo true. The Derby of 18G0 was, I think, run at 
 the rate, of 1' r»7" llu- mile; but the horsefs alhuled to in the text 
 are aged. See Ajipendix, pajjtc 1(j2. 
 
TIMBER. 
 
 •25 
 
 Jose is, I shall not be surprised if, at no distant period, 
 California should produce the finest racehorses in the 
 world. 
 
 Horses of the character of the English dray horse, 
 Clydesdale, or the Suffolk Punch, have not yet reached 
 the country. 
 
 To have attempted a minute description of an area 
 so extended as that embraced by these colonies, would 
 have exceeded the limits of this pubUcation. To com- 
 pensate for this deficiency I propose, in the Appendix, 
 from the unpubhshed journals of myself or others, to 
 give the results of some recent explorations ; merely 
 premising that in no case ought one scrap of a country 
 to be regarded as a s]oecimen of the whole, any more 
 than Wales is a sample of England, or the Wicklow 
 hills of the open plains of Meath or Tipperary. 
 
 I 
 
 Timber. 
 
 The largest trees yet discovered on the Pacific 
 coast resemble cedar, but are of the cypress kind ; they 
 are found at Mariposa and Calaveras, and measure 
 upwards of 30 feet in diameter, and nearly 400 feet in 
 lieight. No pines have been met with as large as 
 these. Near Humboldt I noticed a forest of firs (which 
 resembled the Douglas, but had smaller foHage and 
 cones), in which a diameter of from 14 to 15 feet, and 
 a corresponding height, was not uncommon. A few 
 trees of tlie Douglas kind, of similar size, are found 
 on the banks of the Columbia. In the British colonies, 
 trees exceeding 9 or 10 feet in diameter, and 270 or 
 300 feet in height, are rarely met with. In the very 
 large trees, alluded to as being found south of 49°, the 
 annual rings are large and soft, and the timber com- 
 jiaiativcly weak. 
 
 i 
 
i 
 
 t 
 
 ¥ / 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 26 
 
 TIMBER. 
 
 In this respect, the timber nortli of 49°, being of 
 more moderate dimensions, has decidedly an advan- 
 tage. There the Douglas hr, which, with tlie silver 
 fir {(jrandis\ is the most abundant on the coast, will, 
 I should think, prove, on being properly tested, to be 
 the strongest fir or pine in existence. Broken in a 
 gale, the stem is splintered to a height of 20 feet at least : 
 and when being hewn down, it is astonishing to observe 
 how small a portion of the trunk will mtnstand the 
 leverage of the whole tree. On account of the quan- 
 tity of resin it contains, the timber is exceedingly 
 durable.^ The bark resembles cork, is often 8 or 
 9 inches thick, and makes a capital fire. H.M.S. 
 Thetis, was sparred with it, — I am not aware with 
 what result. If the wood is not too heavy, I should 
 think it will make the best spars in the service. C On 
 the banks of Nitinat Inlet and elsewhere, forests of 
 the Menzies pine occur, very suitable in point of size 
 for first-class spars ; this wood appears to work beauti- 
 fully^^ Hemlock spruce (Canadensis), from which laths 
 are made, is very common. The banks of the Co- 
 lumbia, near Colville, appear to grow ponderosa almost 
 exclusively. A small pine (inops\ a portion of the bark 
 of which Indians eat, is constantly met with near water, 
 whether in the lowest swamps, or basins on mountain- 
 tops. The Wepiiouth pine (Strobus) is common every 
 where. The P. Nootkatensis I have not met with. 
 These are but a few of the firs or pines which are 
 generally met witli. A series of experiments to test 
 their physical properties has been commenced, but is as 
 
 <et too incomplete for publication. 
 Although spar timber is connnon everywhere, the 
 recs grow larger and straighter in the still valleys bor- 
 dering on tlie Gulf of Georgia, than where more exposed,^ 
 on tlie coast. J 
 
FISHERIES. 
 
 27 
 
 There are two occasions on which touring in a pine 
 forest is far from entertaining : viz. in a storm, when 
 tree after tree, with a noise like thunder, comes crash- 
 ing to the ground ; and secondly, when the forest is on 
 fire. It is difficult to conceive anything more dismal 
 than the appearance of charred and branchless forests 
 where fires have swept. It is not uncommon in 
 autumn, to see the country in this way illuminated by 
 a blaze extending for miles in every direction. 
 
 Of oak there are two kinds ; the timber is weak, 
 and the trees usually show symptoms of decay. 
 
 If curled maple is in England valuable for furniture, 
 as I am told it is, it may be of service to some one to 
 know, that it grows in abundance on the banks of the 
 rivers in these colonies. 
 
 The trunks of the arbutus grow veiy large, and the 
 wood in colour and texture so much resembles box, 
 that for many purposes it might supply the uses of tlie 
 latter. It is, however, specifically lighter. 
 
 The country also produces cedar or rather cypress 
 (Cupressus thyoides), juniper, yew, birch, poplar, 
 sorbis, &c., but I never noticed ash, beech, or elm. 
 
 
 1; 
 
 Fisheries. 
 
 Situated as these colonies are, %vitliin the hmits of 
 the whaling grounds, they are certain, when a Httle 
 more advanced, to become the resort of that portion at 
 least of whalers which follows the right whale north of 
 forty-five degrees. At present the whaling fleet, several 
 hundred in number, pass by Victoria, since it has no 
 dock to ofier them, no certainty of sujiplies of provisions 
 or tackle, nor facihties to repair them, and refit or 
 winter at tlie Port of Honolulu. A few of tliem find 
 
 i 
 
28 
 
 FISHKRIES. 
 
 i 
 
 their way to San Francisco ; but tliere supplies are too 
 expensive, and port charges and pilotage too high, to 
 entice any number of them from wintering at Oahu. 
 
 Of small fish, salmon in millions ascend the rivers ; 
 the most valuable is that which is taken from the 
 middle of April to the end of July : this is succeeded 
 by a small eight pounds salmon, which is taken from 
 June to August. Tlic next is a large white salmon. 
 These three kinds are usually taken in main streams or 
 in large lakes. Besides these there are the striped 
 salmon, the hunchback, the hook-nose, and salmon 
 trout in infinite variety. So dense are the shoals of 
 salmon that ascend these rivers, that they can often be 
 taken witli a strong hook tied to a stick. The Indian 
 lets his canoe float down the stream, and with a small 
 landing net lifts them in. From the banks, the bear 
 secures as many as he requires with his paws. None 
 ever return ; they spawn, the waters receding leave 
 them in the bushes, and the banks are covered with 
 the dead. They are fouiid of all weights, up to fifty 
 pounds. In flavour the best kinds are equal to those 
 of Europe, and in richness superior ; the other kinds 
 are not so good. They can be taken with bait in salt 
 water, but not in the rivers. As the coast Indians live 
 on them, they catch them in a great variety of ways ; 
 in weirs variously and ingeniously constructed, in 
 baskets fixed to receive them where they leap. In 
 shallow Avater they spear them, and in deep decoy them 
 to the surface. I have also seen a whole camp of 
 Indians occupied stoning them in shallow water. 
 
 Sturgeon, often of enormous size, are found in 
 abundance on tlie sand bars at the entrance of the 
 rivers. Soup made from them is rich, and resembles 
 tiulle. isinglass is, of course, a drug in the market. 
 
GAME. 
 
 29 
 
 Besides the above, the waters abound with halibut, 
 cod, skate, flounders, herrings, dog fish, and others too 
 numerous to recollect. 
 
 Large cray fish arc found, but not lobsters ; oysters 
 are abundant. 
 
 Game. 
 
 (^ Foremost among the inducements to the middle 
 classes to emigrate to these colonies is the consideration 
 that they can there enjoy many recreations, such as 
 horse exercise, shooting, fishing, &c., which at home 
 are attended with so much expense. 
 
 All the pleasures that can be derived from renting a 
 moor or owning a deer park in Scotland, from sup- 
 porting gamekeepers, resisting poachers, or incurring 
 licences, from tipping whips, or feeing ostlers, are 
 trivial compared with the sport within the reach of a 
 settler with moderate means on the Pacific Coast ; to 
 say nothing of game being there, in an economical 
 point of vicAV, a very important item. ) 
 
 For simplification sake, let us omit the buflalo as too 
 distant, grizzhes or brown bears as too fierce, and 
 mountain goats and sheep, as too wild and inaccessible 
 in their retreats among the mountains. 
 
 If large game is an attraction, elk, the size of a 
 Kerry cow, can readily be met with on the coast. Keep- 
 ing to windward of them, they are not difiicult to 
 approach ; and once within the band, and a shot fired, 
 they become confused, and an easy prey to the hunter. 
 The antlers are five feet or so in width, and weigli 
 upwards of thirty pounds ; the meat is excellent. Like 
 all the deer tribe, they are found in winter in valleys 
 near the coast, and in the heat of summer prefer 
 central lakes and hill-tops, where they can catch the 
 
I 
 
 30 
 
 LARGE GAME. 
 
 1 
 
 breeze, and avoid the files, wliich would otherwise 
 torment thein. 
 
 Deer, being capital swimmers, prefer the groups of 
 small islands to tlie mainland, and a party of half a 
 dozen Inmters will, after an absence of a fortnight or 
 three weeks, occasionally bring back to Victoria as 
 many as thirty or forty, weighing lOOlbs. to 1501bs. 
 each. The Indians snare them in pitfalls, and kill them 
 in traps. But the slaughter is greatest in snow crusted 
 over with ice, strong enough to bear a man, but which 
 the pointed foot of the deer, aided by its spring, too 
 readily penetrates, and the animal is soon overtaken. 
 The venison is seldom so good as that of the parks in 
 England. 
 
 The black bear too is easily met with, and is never 
 known to attack till wounded, or in defence of cubs ; 
 some are very large. If young, the flesh is excellent, 
 but rather too like pork ; but old bear is tough, and 
 the str* iig smell, which no amount of cooking can 
 neutralise, is far from enticing. They are generally 
 seen where berries are abundant, or among charred 
 stumps of their own colour, and usually stand up to 
 look at an intruder before decamping, presenting a 
 capital mark to fire at. They are difllcult to kill, and 
 O'^en when shot through the heart, are active for some 
 time after. 
 
 To see one of these animals steeple-chasing over the 
 fallen timber of the forest, or spring up a tree in its 
 native state, it is difficult to conceive its being similar 
 to that we have seen so tame and spiritless in the 
 menagerie, and conclude that there, though the body 
 was hving, " the heart must have been dead." 
 
 The Puma, fomaidable as it looks, is fhr from coura- 
 geou'=« ; it wiU dart up a tree from the smallest dog. 
 
FEATHERED GAME. 
 
 31 
 
 To sheep it is very destructive ; once within the fold it 
 seizes them successively by tlie tJu'oat and rapidly 
 sucks the blood ; even a man would be in danger if 
 asleep in the vicinity of one. 
 
 The wolves are of different colours, and larger than a 
 Newfoundland dog ; they are excessively shy. 
 
 To meet with any large game the sportsman has 
 now, as might be expected, to go several miles from 
 the settlement. His equipment for this purpose should 
 consist of a double rifle with one sight, adjusted for 
 point blank shooting only, witli strong charge, up to 
 100 yards, a hunting knife, and ammunition, an oil 
 skin and blanket, and an Indian or two to carry the 
 game and keep the track, retracing, if required, in 
 which department they excel. Dogs, unless remarkably 
 well trained, are better dispensed with. 
 
 Of feathered game the duck-shoOting is decidedly 
 the best sport upon the coast. Of these there are fifteen 
 or more different kinds ; the best are found at river 
 deltas and in swamps, where, as you walk, they con- 
 tinue to rise straiglit up, often at the sportsman's feet. 
 Away from the settlement a good shot has killed tliirty 
 and forty in a day. A good retriever is indispensable, 
 and I may add that there is nothing like an Eley cart- 
 ridge and large bore for taking them down. 
 
 Geese of several sorts are also abundant, so much so 
 that in places I have seen Indian boys stalk and kill 
 them with bows and arrows. At night too they 
 sometimes steal upon a flock, rushlight in hand, and 
 wring the necks of a considerable number. But the 
 greatesi numbers of wild fowl are killed in this curious 
 way: The Indians observe the path in air, at the 
 entrance of a river or elsewhere, through which dense 
 flocks of wild fowl pass. While tlie birds are at rest 
 
 \>V 
 
3'2 
 
 BIRDS. 
 
 or feeding, a net is fixed vertically at the proper level, 
 being attached to poles planted some hundreds of feet 
 apart. The birds are suddenly startled, and fly against 
 the net with such rapidity, that they fall stupefied, and 
 are easily clubbed by Indians, who rush upon them from 
 an ambush close by. A punt gun and swivel, with 
 which to supply the market, would, even as a specula- 
 tion, succeed. 
 
 Swans are veiy wary and difficult to bag ; they are 
 found sometimes on the lakes, sometimes on salt water. 
 At the head of Alberni canal I saw five together. 
 
 The coast shooting has this great advantage over the 
 grouse shooting, that the inconvenience of struggling 
 through the bush is avoided. 
 
 The dusky grouse is large, two and a half pounds 
 weight, sits all day drumming in a pine top or cleft in 
 a rock, and at night and morning comes down to feed. 
 
 The willow grouse is smaller, of a brown colour, and 
 is generally found in the neighbourhood of water. 
 
 Both are scarce near the settlements, being very 
 easily shot, as if missed on rising, they settle in the 
 nearest tree. Of either, even far from the settlement, 
 it is difficult to bag more than five to ten brace. A 
 good pointer is indispensable, as they lie very close. 
 Snipe, on the contrary, increase with cultivation ; in one 
 field I put up forty or fifty. Besides the above, tall, 
 buff* cranes, standing four or five feet high, are stalked 
 in the plains, and make good soup. 
 
 It is interesting to observe the rapid increase of 
 small birds near the settlements in proportion as birds 
 of prey, such as eagles, hawks, kites, &c., are scared 
 away. In this way flocks of wild pigeons, doves of 
 two kinds, three varieties of thrush, .meadow larks, 
 several kinds of sparrows, wrens, humming-birds, tom- 
 
LAND — OX WHAT TKRMS OBTAINABLK. 
 
 33 
 
 tits, and a bird that sings at niglit, evidently prefer 
 (quarters near a homestead to a precarious subsistence 
 in the wilderness. 
 
 Mode and Terms of Sale of Lands. 
 
 As it is highly proba])le that tlie enactments and 
 regulations under which lands are, in Vancouver Island, 
 obtainable, will very shortly be assimilated to those of 
 Britisli Columbia, it will be sufficient here to detail the 
 very liberal land arrangements adopted in the latter 
 colony in January last. 
 
 By this law, any British subject may acquire 160 
 acres of unoccupied land, in anticipation of survey, in 
 any part of British Columbia : excepting only sucli 
 portions as are reserved by Government for pubHc 
 purposes, such as town sites, Indian reserves, or as may 
 ha required for mining. To acqmre a good, inahenable 
 claim to a perfect title, it is only necessary for the 
 claimant to take possession as soon as he makes his 
 selection, reporting the fact in writing to the nearest 
 magistrate, with a description of the boundaries. On 
 taking possession, he pays nothing for the land, but 
 has to pay a small fee for recording the claim. When 
 the land shall have been surveyed by the Government, 
 the claimant or his heirs acquire a title from Govern- 
 ment, on payment of a sum not to exceed IO5. per 
 acre, but which it is expected will be reduced to hs. 
 per acre. This will of course depend on the decision 
 of the Imperial Government. 
 
 With a view to encourage improvement, a person in 
 possession can sell his land as soon as he shall have 
 effected improvements to the value of IO5. per acre ; 
 this condition complied with, he can pass a good title 
 
 D 
 
 , 
 
 u mj 
 
I(i 
 
 ^^sm 
 
 84 
 
 PRE-EMl'TION OF LANDS. 
 
 to the purcliaser. The claimant can, in addition to the 
 IGO acres so acquired, ])urcliase at any time any ad- 
 ditional quantity of land he ])leases, at a price not ex- 
 ceeding \0s. an acre, of which bs. per acre is i)aiddown, 
 and the rest at the time of survey, if demanded. As a 
 considerable time must elapse before these lands can be 
 survej^ed, persons taking up land promptly, may be years 
 in possession before they are called upon for payment. 
 Land so taken up and afterwards abandoned, may 
 be claimed and taken up by any other person on the 
 original terms, even if improved by the hrst occupant. 
 
 Persons so occupying land have the same legal 
 remedies of action of ejectment and trespass against 
 intruders, as if they had paid for the land and obtained 
 an indenture. 
 
 Questions of boundaries or disputes with neighbours, 
 are referred to the nearest magistrate to be disposed 
 of in a summary way, but with an appeal to the higher 
 courts. 
 
 The law gives to aUens, who shall take the oath of 
 allegiance, the same rights and privileges as to British 
 subjects. 
 
 Acquiring land in this way, previous to paying for 
 it, is technically called pre-empting. This system was 
 first adopted in America, some twenty years ago, nomi- 
 nally as a " rehef law," in order to justify certain cases of 
 occupation on a large scale, without previous permission, 
 of federal lands. In more than one sense it was a relief 
 law, inasmuch as it reheved the Government of what 
 would have been otherwise a source of considerable em- 
 barrassment. 
 
 Sale of land is after all only the levying of a direct and 
 immediate tax on one class of the population : and it 
 was soon found, that by removing as far as possible 
 
 i 
 
AITKAL TO TIIK BRITISH PRESS. 
 
 35 
 
 til is, and ovory other impediment and restriction 
 tending to retard tlie settlement of the country, tlie 
 revenue was in reality increased by the influx of a 
 taxable p()])ulation. It was also argued, that the ad- 
 vantages and profits arising from the first settlement of 
 a new country, ought to be enjoyed by the early 
 settlers ; that they have pecuHar hardships and priva- 
 tions to undergo, especial dangers and labours to en- 
 counter, and, therefore, that to these the law ought not 
 to contemplate any competition, except from other 
 actual settlers in selecting the most fertile lands and the 
 choicest spots. Such was the basis of the American 
 Act of September 4th, 1841, which, by several sub- 
 sequent statutes, they have brought into perfect 
 working order. It was no longer considered necessary 
 to hold colonial lands, to a certain extent, in trust, to 
 benefit tlie future redundant population of the country — 
 generations yet unborn — and it was concluded that 
 posterity should take care of itself. 
 
 The act which refers to British Columbia, is inserted 
 in the Appendix, and objections taken to portions of it, 
 which will require re-modelling before the whole 
 can be brought into working order ; but these are trifles 
 compared with the wisdom of the measure itself, and 
 the spirit of extreme liberality in which it is conceived ; 
 and it is to be hoped that the press will assist in pro- 
 mulgating it for the information of farmers possessed 
 of moderate capital, and therefore but moderate profits 
 in Great Britain. 
 
80 
 
 CTIAP. III. 
 
 MINKnALS AND HOCKS. — GOLD IN HRlTISn COLUMMA, VANCOtlVKU 
 
 ISLAND, AND QUKKN CIIAULOTTE's ISLAND. CO\L ON TIIK PACIFIC. 
 
 lltON. COITEK. — rLUMHAGO. — LIMESTONE. SANDSTONE. 
 
 MAUIILE, AND VAIJIOUS COLOUIIKD EAUTU3. SALT Si'KlNGS, &C. 
 
 The wide distribution of gold in British Columbia is 
 very striking : traversing the country diagonally from 
 north to south, the Fraser Elver everywhere passes 
 through a gold country. The same may be said of 
 Thomson's Eiver, and of the Columbia north of 49°. 
 A glance at the map shows the aggregate length of 
 these rivers to be much more than 1000 miles. As a 
 rule, the gold is found in much smaller particles, and 
 less in quantity nearer the mouths of these rivers, and 
 both size and quantity increase as we ascend them. 
 At Colvile, for instance, gold is found in almost any 
 part of the surrounding country, but not quite coarse 
 enough to pay for working. In the neighbourhood 
 of Fort Thomson, Shoushwap and Kamloops Lakes, 
 gold in quantity was first discovered and reported by 
 Indians. For a considerable time Yale was the centre 
 of attraction, afterwards Bridge Eiver and the forks : 
 but the vicinity of Fort George and Fort Alexandria, 
 and the slopes of the mountain range in which the 
 Quesnel Eiver rises, are now found to contain, in the 
 greatest quantity, the coarsest gold. 
 
 As to the produce of the country in this respect, and 
 the success that an intending emigrant miner may 
 iairly be led to anticipate, I take the liberty to de- 
 nounce in the strongest terms, as unfair and calcu- 
 
OOLI) MINING AS AN AVOCATION. 
 
 37 
 
 hitod to mislead, tlic maimer in which this part of the 
 subject is treated in most books written on <,'(>ld 
 countries ; wliicli, if I were to follow, I should com- 
 mence by enumerating the several succesr •: of linnvii, 
 Jones, and Kobinson ; tell how Peter's eyes sparkled 
 while he picked " a pocket " in a rock, and how in 
 a valley exceeding in grandeur anything he had r et 
 before, Jenkins washed out so many cents to the pan. 
 I could, without any sacrifice of truth, produce instances 
 of several persons who reahsed, during a mining season, 
 some 400/. or 500/. each, but unless I also recorded 
 many a sad instance of failure, of constitutions ruined, 
 and disappointed expectation, the induction would be 
 useless, a wrong impression conveyed, and the exceed- 
 ingly precarious nature of mining as an avocation lost 
 sjj^lit of, ending with the disappointment of the inexpe- 
 rienced and the sanguine. 
 
 Tliis remark will perhaps ai)ply with greater force 
 to British Columbia than to any other known gold 
 country. Gold mining is laborious every^vhere, but 
 there, owing to the want of main lines of road, the 
 labour is greatly increased. Sometimes, with the 
 tracldng hue passed across his shoulders, the miner 
 drags his boat or canoe against a swift current, often 
 wading up to his waist in water. At other times we 
 meet him toiling up some very rugged hill with a 
 month's provisions on his back. And what has been the 
 result? Since mining began in British Columbia in 
 1858, the miner's average earnings have not exceeded 
 100/. or so a-year, while the cost of Hving is at least 
 GO/, a-year. An intending emigrant should dismiss 
 from his mind any instances of extraordinary successes 
 he may have heard of. Suppose he has become acci- 
 dentally acquainted with an authenticated casj of a 
 
 i> 3 
 
 
 / 
 
 M^ 
 
 1^ 
 
^«i 
 
 mmm 
 
 I'll 
 
 38 
 
 GOLD FIELDS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 man makins; five or t/jii times more tlian the avcra<,^c in 
 a season, such an instance only argues 5 or 10 to 1 
 against his (the intending emigrant) reahsing anything. 
 
 In 1858 the greatest monthly shipment of gold from 
 British Columbia was )^2 35,000 and the least was about 
 ,$'6000, and the total product of the gold mines for that 
 year was estimated at «^1,494,211 (vide Gazette, April 
 lOtli, 1859). From data before me I beheve the 
 amount mined in 1859 to have been about .^2,000,000 ; 
 but to be moderate, assume the product of the two years 
 at ,^3,000,000 ; the number of miners actually at work at 
 any time in the country cannot have exceeded 3000, as 
 the mining licences show (Gazette, June 9th, 1859, esti- 
 mates them at 2000); whic^ gives the miner's average 
 annual earning at 100/., as I before stated. 
 
 In California the average earnings are about half as 
 much, but the country is open and accessible, and 
 therefore the means of Uving and creature-comforts 
 much more plentiful, which leads the miner to prefer 
 it far to Britisl' Columbia, notwithstanduig the higher 
 pay in the latter. 
 
 To make this clear, I estimate the working miners of 
 California now at 200,000, and shall give the data on 
 which I do so. The " Price Current " of December 31st, 
 1854, when the population of Cahfomia was, in round 
 numbers, 300,000, estimated the number of miners 
 then in the State at 80,000 to 100,000 ; since theii the 
 population of the State has been increased chiefly 
 by immigration, at the rate of 30,000 to 40,000 per 
 annum, principally from the labouring classes, and is now 
 not far short of 600,000, two-thirds * of whom are 
 
 * The New York Herald, copied by Morning Chronicle, March 
 5th, 1860, makes the popiihition of California exceed a million, — 
 a manifest exaggeration. 
 
GOLD FIELDS OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 39 
 
 (-•stimated by Mr. Greeley to be able-bodied men.* On 
 these grounds I am safe in putting down the number of 
 miners as above stated. 
 
 The yield of these mines is now, with tolerable re- 
 gularity, ,^50,000,000 annually ; and tliis will show that 
 the British Columbia gold fields, however inaccessible, 
 are twice as profitable to tlie miner, as the California 
 gold fields are. 
 
 In stating the average of the latter, as I have done, at 
 50/. per man per annum, it may be objected, that they 
 cannot live, fmding tools, quicksilver, mules, clothes, (tc, 
 on so httle : to this I reply that 40,000 or 50,000 of 
 their number reahse a mere subsistence from min- 
 ing, and are therefore ready, on the vaguest rinnour and 
 the shortest notice, to start for Victoria, Denver, Sonora, 
 or the south, with a view to participate in the profits 
 of any enterprise that may offer. 
 
 The surface di2:2;ings of California are now consider- 
 ably exlmusted, and the yield of the mines less by 
 nearly ^9,000,000, than it -was in 1853, while tlie 
 p()pulation has been tdl along rapidly increasing. Ad- 
 ditional force is given to the statement that the surface 
 mines are partially exhausted, by the fact, that while 
 the annual yield of gold is on the decline, quartz mills 
 are now numerous, and qiuu^tz companies far more 
 successful than heretofore. 
 
 The editor of the New York Tribune seemed to sus- 
 pect this, when in 1859 he vTote as follows : — 
 
 " I do not suppose that the gold mines of California 
 will ever be thoroughly worked out ; certainly not in 
 the next thousand years. Yet I do not anticipate any 
 considerable increase in the annual production, because 
 I deem ,^50,000,000 per annum as much as can be 
 
 * Overland Journey, New York, 18(50, p. 855. 
 
 i> 4 
 
 ll 
 
 I ■ 
 
i i 
 
 I i 
 
 \i 
 
 40 
 
 EXIIAUSTIBILITY OF SURFACE GOLD. 
 
 taken out at a profit under existing circumstances. 
 The early miners of California reaped what nature had 
 been quietly saving through countless thousands of 
 years. Through the action of frost and fire, growth and 
 decay, air and water, she had been slowly wearing 
 down the primitive rocks in which the gold was ori- 
 ginally deposited, washing away the fighter matter, and 
 concentrating the gold thus gleaned fi:om cubic miles of 
 stubborn quartz and granite, into a few cubi(; feet of 
 earth at the bottom of her water courses. Many a 
 miner has thus taken out in a day, gold which could 
 not in weeks have been extracted from the rocks where 
 it first grew. The hills in which it is now mainly 
 found, can be washed down at a dollar or less per 
 cubic yard, by the best hydraulic appliances ; but 
 when the miner is brought face to face with the rough 
 granite the case is bravely altered." 
 
 SmPMENTS OF CALIFORNIAN GOLD. 
 
 1851 
 
 1852 
 1853 
 1854 
 1855 
 
 34,492,000 
 45,779,000 
 54,935,000 
 50,973,968 
 45,182,631 
 
 1856 
 1857 
 1858 
 1859 
 
 POPULATION OF CALIFORNU. 
 
 1850 
 1852 
 
 92,597 
 264,435 
 
 1854—55 
 1859—60 
 
 50,697,434] 
 47,215,398 
 46,503,632; 
 45,989,890; 
 
 300,000 
 600,000 
 
 If in California ten or twelve years has so con- 
 siderably reduced the profits of surface mining, we 
 may expect in British Columbia, within a fike period, 
 a similar result. 
 
 The surface gold is the great inducement to the 
 labourer to come to tlie country; it requires a capi- 
 talist to work in (juartz. 
 
 Li California, farms to t^upply the surface diggers 
 
 J 
 
A GOLDEN OPPORTUXITY, 
 
 41 
 
 became with them concurrently establislied, and the 
 poi)ulation took immediate root in the country, which 
 was naturally open, fertile, and unimpeded. 
 
 In British Columbia we have the diggers, but owing 
 to the want of natural or made roads, and the countiy 
 being heavily timbered and rough, we see as yet no 
 farming population. 
 
 Admitting the exhaustibihty of the surface gold* 
 which I have shown above, the earliest efforts of legis- 
 lation ought to be to plant a farming population in the 
 country to keep pace with and supply the miners. 
 
 Miners themselves seldom take to farming, for this 
 their tastes are usually too speculative, extravagant, 
 and nomadic. 
 
 To the statesman, the existence of surface gold 
 presents a grand opportunity to settle a wild country, 
 but on account of its extreme exhaustibihty, from the 
 time of its discovery, hke the Sibyl's offer, the chance 
 is ever on the wane. 
 
 When, in 1858, some 35,000 San Franciscan miners 
 visited Victoria and as hastily returned, the circum- 
 stance of their non-detention was by many, especially 
 by the local newspapers, considered as the greatest 
 misfortune that could befall the country. Had the 
 country been previously adapted by open communi- 
 cation, cheap land, &c., to invite with them a British 
 farming population, this impression might have been 
 a correct one; but, hitherto, the mines of British 
 Columbia have been worked simply for the benefit 
 of the merchants and shipowners of San Francisco, 
 and I cannot think that, under the circumstances. Great 
 Britain or the colonies have lost much by the exodus 
 so much regretted. 
 
 Hill's Bar, lor iiiatauce, washed out. 
 
I ) 
 
 42 
 
 GOLD IN VANCOUVER ISLAND. 
 
 I 
 
 •i ii 
 
 I 
 
 The foregoing facts show clearly that the produce 
 of the mines of British Columbia, compared with the 
 population liitherto at work at them, has been highly 
 satisfactory, and is indeed conclusive as to their rich- 
 ness ; but lest the smallness of the gross amount, C(3m- 
 pared with the produce of gold countries long esta- 
 bUshed, should create an erroneous impression, I add 
 the following remarks, taken from Mr. Waddington's 
 able pamphlet on this subject : — 
 
 " The oflicial exports (of gold) from California to tlie 
 Eastern States in 1849, com[)rehending a lapse of more 
 than six months from the first discoveiy of gold, 
 amounted only to )^G0,000. It is possible that as much 
 more was sent to Chih and the Sandwich Islands, and 
 we will suppose the same amount to have been taken 
 away by private hands, tliough the opportunities at 
 that time were few and far between. To the above 
 we may add ($'60,000 for what remained in the country, 
 and we shall reach a total of ,^240,000 for the pro- 
 duction of Cahfornia during the first six months. To 
 make another comparison : — all the gold brought to 
 Melbourne in 1834 amounted to 104,154 oz., or, at 
 sixteen dollars per oz., )^1,GC6,4G4 ; whilst New South 
 Wales, wliich is now so productive, gave, for the first 
 six months of 1840, only 45,190 oz., or ,$725,000." 
 
 In Vancouver Island, although gold has in one or 
 two places been actually worked, it has not yet been 
 found in sufiicient quantity to repay the cost of mining. 
 
 In 1852, I broke off almost at random pieces of 
 rock in various places within a walk of Victoria, and 
 the report on them by Mr. James Tennant (vide Ap- 
 pendix), of the Strand, will be read with interest, enu- 
 merating as it does tlie geological formations usually 
 met with in the south-eastern portion of tlie Island, 
 and showing that it is extremely probable tliat Van- 
 
GOLD IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S ISLAND. 
 
 43 
 
 cpiivcr Island, when properly explored, will be found 
 a gold-producing country. 
 
 Gold was known to exist in Queen Charlotte's Island 
 as far back as 1852 ; when, in consequence of in- 
 formation obtained from Lidians, the agents of tlie 
 Hudson's Bay Company despatched the Una to the 
 Island with a party of miners, drafted from the coal 
 mines, weU provisioned, and provided with every re- 
 quisite to blast on a large scale. 
 
 Anchored in Mitchell Harbour, on the western side 
 of the Island, a valuable quartz vein was soon dis- 
 covered. It was seven mches wide, was traced for 
 eighty feet, and contamed twenty-five per cent, of gold 
 in many places. For several days the vein was woiked 
 mth but one bar to their success, and that a serious 
 one. At every blast, the natives scrambled with the 
 miners and with one another for the fiagments. As 
 neither side was armed, these arrangements were con- 
 ducted with perfect good humour. By way of episode 
 to the general engagements, both parties occasionally 
 paused to witness a fair wrestHng match between some 
 sturdy Scotchman who had the science and any Indian 
 that was ambitious to distinguish himself; and the 
 miners themselves afterwards admitted that nakedness 
 and fish oil often carried the day. At length the vein 
 was abandoned, anchor weighed, and the Una wrecked 
 and burnt on her way back to Victoria. The heaviest 
 specimens of pure gold as yet obtained fi'om Queen 
 Charlotte's Island, weighed from foiu:teen to sixteen 
 ounces. ( Vide Appendix.) 
 
 /■ 
 
 \ 
 
 Coal oil the Pacijic. 
 
 The consumption of coal at the Pacific is enormous, 
 perhaps 200,000 tons a year. San Francisco alone, in 
 
1 
 
 i 
 
 IP" i 
 
 s 
 
 44 
 
 COAL ON THE PACIFIC. 
 
 1859, imported 79,722 tons, and the quantity consumed 
 that year amounted to 69,258 tons. In connection with 
 the Panama Eailway (on both sides), some seventy 
 steamers ply, the combined tonnage of which is not far 
 short of 100,000 tons. . I mention these facts to show 
 that the above-mentioned statement is not an exaggera- 
 tion. The Pacific coasts produce, in many places, coal 
 of good quality, but have not as yet supplied more than 
 10 per cent, of the consumption ; of this 10 per cent, 
 the principal part has been supplied by ChUi, the pro- 
 duce of the North Pacific coal mines being, up to the 
 present time, positively insignificant. 
 
 It is all very well to say, as is so frequently the case, 
 " In nothing does Vancouver Island resemble England 
 more than in the extensive deposits of coal which she 
 possesses," but we might add, in nothing does she 
 difier from England more than in the small production 
 and sale of them. 
 
 Discoveries of coal in the neighbourhood of Mary's 
 ville, Stockton, on the Sacramento and San Joaquin 
 lUvers are frequently reported in the Cahfornian papers, 
 but these invariably turn out to be mere Ugnite beds. 
 We hear nothing now of the coal of the Umqua and Co- 
 quille Rivers. Coose Bay, however, sends some coal to 
 San Francisco ; the place was pointed out to me by Cap- 
 tain Alden. It is about 400 miles north of San Francisco, 
 on a bold, unsheltered part of that rocky coast, and to 
 have called the place a bay required some nerve. The 
 coal is, I believe, a mile or so inland ; I saw some of 
 it at San Francisco, and it looked particularly slaty. 
 The coal of the Columbia Eiver is brown in colour. I 
 saw the Cowlitz coal tried in a steamer, and so great 
 was the quantity of sulphur distilled from it that it 
 might almost be swept off" the deck. 
 
COAL IN VANCOUVER ISLAND. 
 
 45 
 
 The next coal we come to as we go north is at Belhng- 
 ham Bay, and as this coal field is the only one on the 
 Pacific in American territory, yet discovered, that can 
 at all compare or compete with the coal found in the 
 British settlements, I shall give a more extended de- 
 scription of it. The field consists of four principal beds ; 
 cropping out on the coast, dipping north, I should have 
 thought, at an angle of 45° (the engineer said it dipped 
 1 in 2). 
 
 In quality the coal is undeniobly very inferior to 
 that of Nanaimo, the beds being often mixed with shale 
 and clay, and lighter in colour. The thickest bed is 
 four or five feet, and not nine or ten feet as usually 
 stated. The working of these beds at an angle like 
 that mentioned, and roofed with clay as is generally 
 the case, will be very expensive. The shores of the 
 bay in which it is found are shoal all round, in fact a 
 mud flat, and sea-going vessels have a difficulty in 
 finding it through a labyrinth of islands, intricate pas- 
 sages and uncertain currents. 
 
 In Vancouver Island from Nitinat to Port San Juan, 
 the northern boundary of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, 
 is flat, and sandstone all along ; at Nitinat the Indians 
 showed me specimens of coal ; at Sooke, a shallow 
 boring passed through one inch of coal ; at Siianich 
 coal is found of a bad quahty in what looks like clay and 
 slate. The strike of the Bellingham Bay coal from east 
 to west would point to Siianich. 
 
 About Nanaimo tlie prevailing rock is sandstone, 
 varying in texture from the hardest conglomerate and 
 millstone grit to a soft and workable building stone. 
 The harbour is admirably sheltered and easily ap- 
 proached ; vessels draw close alongside a whai f to 
 load. There several beds of excellent coal are found. 
 
 'if 
 
r 
 
 
 
 
 46 
 
 NANAIMO. 
 
 nearly horizontal, but dipping suflicicntly toward the 
 south and west for drainage, and generally roofed witli 
 sandstone. They are all worked within fifty or sixty 
 feet of the surfjice, and are found crop[)ing out on tiie 
 islands, for several miles inland, and high up the 
 Nanaiino River towards the interior of the island, 
 whieli will give some idea of their vast extent. They 
 are used in Her Majesty's steamers, those of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company, and the river steamers. 
 
 The American sea-going steamers and those of the 
 Pacific Mail Steamship Company do not use them; 
 this is not owing to the want of a reciprocity treaty, as 
 is elsewhere shown, because, after paying duty and 
 all other expenses, they can be sold in the San Fran- 
 cisco market at half the price of the foreign coal 
 which these steamers burn. The agents of these com- 
 panies assert that the specific gravity of the coal is 
 so much less than that of anthracite or English coal 
 which they consume, and that they burn so fast and 
 freely that they take up too much room, and require, 
 in consequence, such continual stoking that to burn 
 them is not economical, even at half the price of 
 English coal: if this is not true it ought, by experi- 
 ment, to be contradicted. If it is true, it might be 
 remedied by obtaining coal at a greater depth fi'om 
 the surface, for clearly the density of the coal must be 
 greater in proportion to the pressure from above imder 
 which it was formed. It is not true, as has been stated, 
 that in burning this coal leaves behind it a good deal of 
 slag ; on the contrary, it burns to a white ash. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company have some forty build- 
 ings and two engines at Nanaimo, giving it the appear- 
 ance of a flourishmg town ; there is a considerable 
 quantity of mineral land in the neighbourhood unsold. 
 
COAL IN BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 47 
 
 Farther up the coast at Valdez Inlet wc f id the 
 f^andstoiic formation again ; in the inlet itself I noticed a 
 seam of coal, six inches in thickness, cropping out. 
 
 The coal found at Koskeemo, south of Beaver 
 Ilaibour, was but eighteen inches in tliickness ; there 
 the sandstone is everywhere broken up by primitive 
 rock, which, in that neighbourhood, predominates. 
 Labour on the coast is too dear to make the working of 
 any seam profitable, which does not exceed consider- 
 ably eighteen inches. When I last visited the former 
 worldngs of the Hudson's Bay Company there, the 
 place was so overgrown with poplars, and every ves- 
 tige of dwellings had been so removed by Indians, that 
 a stranger would not have discovered that coal had 
 ever been worked there. 
 
 On the coasts of British Columbia coal has been 
 discovered in several places. That within the entrance of 
 Burrard canal on the south side, was known to the 
 Hudson^s Bay Company several years ago ; it was dis- 
 covered by Mr. Henry N. Peers. The beds are thin, 
 and the fact that they preferred to mine on the island 
 showed that their opinion of it was unfavourable. 
 
 Coal has also been discovered in the delta of Fraser 
 
 Eiver, but its situation is unfavourable to exclude water. 
 
 On the Skeena river, which reaches the sea at Port 
 
 Essington, Major Downie in 1859 claimed to have 
 
 discovered extensive deposits of coal. 
 
 In addition to the foregoing minerals, I would men- 
 tion that I saw specimens of copper, nearly pure, taken 
 from Deer Island, in the neighbourhood of Fort Eupert, 
 and of iron and plumbago, taken from various parts of 
 the coasts. 
 
 Limestone is everywhere abundant, and sandstone 
 of course. Blue marble is also abundant on tlie coast, 
 
 n 
 
■■«■ 
 
 1*1 
 
 f 
 
 K { 
 
 111 
 
 ( 
 
 48 
 
 OTlIi:il MIXKRALS. 
 
 often intersected with veins of white; the thickest of 
 these I have seen, was nhie inclics. I mention this 
 because Stin Francisco pays annually for white marble 
 some 15,000/., some of which, of inferior quality, is found 
 at a point inland seventy-five miles from Sacramento, 
 but the principal part is supplied from Vermont, by 
 rail to New York and thence shipped ; it k also im- 
 ported from Italy, and is principally used for mantel- 
 pieces and monuments, and costs upwards of 1/. per foot 
 in the rough. I should add, the coast abounds with 
 earths of diflerent colours, with which the Indians 
 occasionally paint their canoes. 
 
 I shall conclude this chapter with an instance of the 
 salt springs of Vancouver Island. Salt on the coast for 
 curing fish and beef, and other similar purposes, is ex- 
 ceedingly valuable. The Sandwich Island salt contains 
 too much lime to be used for these purposes. Liver- 
 pool salt is retailed in the Sound, as high as 'ISc. per 
 pound ; this makes the subject worth investigating. 
 
 A gallon of water from the Nanaimo spring pro- 
 duced lib. of salt (a gallon of sea water produces 
 4J oz.), the spring produced about a gallon a minute — 
 the specific gravity of the water, taken roughly, was 
 about 10 '60. These springs wiU not of course compare 
 with the brine springs of Worcestershire, or those of 
 Utah, which contain J their weight in salt, but for 
 the reason mentioned, the subject is not uninteresting. 
 The ofiensive smell alluded to in the Report of Pro- 
 fessor Taylor (vide Appendix) on two of these springs, 
 arose from the decomposition which unavoidably took 
 place, as the samples were bottled for nearly a year 
 before they were placed in his hands. 
 
•i!) 
 
 ^ CITAP. TV. 
 
 CHIKK TOWNS OF VANCOL'VEU ISLAND AND HHITISII COLUMBIA. VirT(»i;i\. 
 
 LANGLKY. — NEW WKSTMINSTEH. IIAllIlOUItS AND KOIiTIl'lCATIONS. 
 
 ONE BUITISII CAPITAL ON THE rAClEIC SUFFICIENT. 
 
 GiVEX ail uiiinliabited country : to choose a town site 
 wliich shall ultimately become tlie caj)ital, is a jmzzle, 
 and might, perhaps, with advantage, be included among 
 civil-service examination questions. If England were 
 such a country, I risk nothing in saying, nine com- 
 petent persons out of ten would not have selected 
 London, nor if one did, would he have believed that 
 his selection would ripen into so w^onderful a result. 
 Why is Dublin, with its sand-bars and nuid-flats, the 
 capital of Ireland ? It might bewilder a clever jierson 
 to say why half the chief cities of Europe are not 
 second-rate cities instead. 
 
 It needs no prophet to say that British interests require 
 one capital on the Pacific, so eligibly situated, that it 
 shall be capable of entering into friendly competition 
 with San Francisco in commerce and in comfort ; and 
 of rapidly outstripping the mushroom " cities " of the 
 coast.* 
 
 * I hope the term will be excused, .is I mean no disrespect to any 
 of the very beautiful cities America has built: but, on the coast, it 
 is no uncommon thing for a Tap to be " inaugurated," a Newspaper 
 started, a Wliarf projected, and a City proclaimed ; and shortly 
 after, to our astonishment, wo find that tlie barrels have; lieen rolled 
 away, the patriotic type set to echo the grievances r>f a ditrocnt 
 locality, and that the entire institution has " whittled out." In fact, 
 Americans are so enteri)rising, tliat (luy fret|ueiit]y conMiicuee ;i 
 
 E 
 
r I 
 
 i<% 
 
 50 
 
 VIC'TOKIA. 
 
 ■}\. 
 
 \i' 
 
 I 
 
 
 Victoria * was selected by Governor Douglas, whose 
 intimate acquaintance with every crevice in the coast 
 ought to carry considerable weight, as " the site " in 
 1842, when he expressed his confidence "that there 
 was no sea-port north of tlie Colun^bia, where so many 
 advantages could be found combined;" ano})hiion which 
 was confirmed by Sir George Simpson, in his despatch 
 of June 21st, 1844, in which he states, " The situation 
 of Victoria is peculiarly eligible, the countrj^ and 
 climate remarkably fine, and the harbour excellent." 
 And again : "June, 184G, — Fort Victoria promises to 
 become a very important place." The site on the east 
 side of the hai'bour has many advantages ; it is level, 
 extensive, and clear, and from every street the view of 
 distant snow-capped mountains is a picture. Eiglit fertile 
 agricultural districts, containing 100,000 acres of con- 
 nected o)ien land, surround it. The suburbs and park 
 adjacent are shaded with oak trees ; and although 
 
 town in anticipation of events on which its fii are success must 
 depend; and, thcrelbre, cannot be expected to draw prizes every 
 time. When, for instance, I first saw Eureka, I was standing in a 
 damp forest, on tlie hanks of a shallow and rather muddy river, and 
 naturally inquired, Where ? To which my conijianion replied, *' This 
 is the city. Within a lumdred yards of us stands a lifpior store, it 
 will be roofed in a day i>r two — come and take a drink." 
 
 * As with other inventions, copyright shoiUd extend to names of 
 to^vns. Letters directed to Vancouver Island and Australia will no 
 doubt, in time to come, be assorted on the same route, anvl letters 
 intended for Victoria toAvn may find their way to Victoria colony, as 
 has to my knowledge occiu-red ; or they may be left behind at 
 Victoria near New Orleans, or elsewhere. Englishmen abroad like 
 their towns to be called after a member of the royal family, because 
 it reminds them of institutions which distance bat serves to endear. 
 In this case, liowever, had the Queen been petitioned to name the 
 chief town, as in the case of B. C, it is probable that, as a matter of 
 practical convenience, a diflferent name would have been selected. 
 
 Hi 
 
L.\N(JLKY. 
 
 CI 
 
 >> 
 
 4 
 
 12. 
 
 tlicre is no water in th(* town, unless wluit is procured 
 from wells, wjiter cun l)i^ readily led into it, from 
 .sj)rinf;s and lakes in the back ^n'ound. The streets are 
 broad and macadamised, and tlie ])rivate dwelliiij^s, 
 ])ublic buil(lin<4s, churches, c^c, have been erected with 
 so much taste, luid are kept so attractively neat, that 
 even now, the api)earance of the town is thoroughly 
 English. The liouses are generally built of wood, planed, 
 relieved by cornice, t^-c, and painted, the chinmeys being 
 brick, but there are a good many brick buildings as 
 well. The population of Victoria is abt)ut 3000. 
 
 Subsequently to the establishment of Biitish Colum- 
 bia as a Crown colony in 1858, the ruling authorities 
 decided that a separate capital for British Columbia — 
 one seapoit, and that of the greatest consequence — to 
 be established somewhere in the neighbourhood of 
 Fraser Eiver, was indispensable. 
 
 A point on the left baid<;, nine miles from the entrance, 
 was first proposed ; but afterwards abandoned (in 
 November, 1858) in favour of a point sixteen miles 
 further up the river, on the same side. 
 
 The spot selected was the site of a former estabhsh- 
 ment of the Hudson's Bay Comjjany, known as " Old 
 Fort Langley." The anchorage is good, and the river 
 deep enough to admit of ships being moored close into 
 the bank : with a cheerful aspect and surface well 
 adapted for building and drainage. The greater part 
 of the site is dry and elevated, and the open lands of 
 New Langley are at no great distance in the rear. A 
 trail connects it with Whatcome and other American 
 towns in the neighbourhood of Bellingham Bay. Here 
 3000 building lots were laid out, of which 342 were 
 sold in two days, for 13,000/., on which a deposit often 
 per cent, was paid. A court-house, jail, parsonage, and 
 
 E 2 
 
 * 
 
 1^1 
 
I!r^ 
 
 52 
 
 NEW WESTMINSTER. 
 
 'I 
 
 X 
 
 church were built, and 400 or 500 persons were about 
 to commence operations, when anotlier capital was an- 
 nounced. 
 
 Tlie site last determined on was on the right bank, 
 fifteen miles from the entrance, where the Fraser 
 divides to form the north and south branches. 
 
 No exertions were spared to found the new ca])ital 
 with eclat and stamp it with success. Engineers, mili- 
 tary and civil, were for months employed projecting its 
 squares and terraces. At the auction sales it was an- 
 nounced that in certain quarters, its " West-end," no 
 shop fronts should be admitted. Majesty itself was 
 ai)proaclied to find a name for it, and it was called in 
 the colonies " The riiantom City." 
 
 On perusal of the foregoing and papers hi tlie A]i- 
 pendix the idea will naturally suggest itself, that it would 
 be far better if the iiiiluence of Government were4»xerted 
 to concentrate the energies of so small a population as 
 the country contains to the erection of one capital, 
 whichever of them is best adapted to become the 
 British depot of the commerce of the West. 
 
 The seaboard of California is nearly double that of 
 British Columbia, yet one San Francisco is found sufll- 
 cient. 
 
 Any port within Fraser River, or in its neighbourhood, 
 can never bo the resort of sea-going vessels. Fogs and 
 calms for months in autumn, the rapid currens of the 
 Haro archipelago, the narrow channel passin^^ through 
 miles of shifting sand, uncertain tides, and tlie rapidity 
 of its own current, must ])revent Fraser Eiver, however 
 well adapted for steam na\ igation, from ever becoming 
 tlie resort of sailing vesscils. 
 
 As a town site. New Westminste]' is decidedly objec- 
 tionable, 'i'oo elevated- expensive to grade, and 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
)llt 
 
 fill- 
 
 Ilk, 
 
 Iscr 
 
 tnl 
 
 ili" 
 
 its 
 
 [in- 
 
 IK) 
 
 vas 
 ill 
 
 FORTIFICATIOXS. 
 
 6^ 
 
 % 
 
 lioavily tinihered, its-progress must necessarily be slow ; 
 tlie extensive swamps and marshes so close to it are 
 not an advantage, to say nothing of the music of acres 
 of frogs in sj)ring, and tlie stings of myriads of mosqui- 
 toes in sunnner ; its impregnability may be unquestion- 
 able, but if unfortunately this quality renders it inac- 
 cessible to the merchantmen of the Pacific, and to the 
 trade of Puget Sound, what object could an enemy have 
 in attacking it? The enemies that soldiers there will have 
 tt) contend with are depression and disease, from want 
 of exercise in open grounds. Langley, which is now 
 abandoned, was better circumstanced in this res})ect, 
 and as to trade ; and the town site was clear. The 
 argument in f{iv<nir of separating the capital from the 
 peoi)le you want to trade with by a broad and rapid 
 river, lest they should at a future time become hostile, 
 is at least questionable, since, assuming war, and that 
 Government measures are such that we may r.t the same 
 time assinne a British population, your position on the 
 foreign frontier is quite as menacing to the supi)osed 
 enemy as theirs to you. 
 
 Besides, the qualifications, such as accessibility, easy 
 gradients to approach it by, &c., requisite to constitute 
 a town site eligible for commercial purposes, are tlie 
 <>pl)()site to those required for defence. Is a com- 
 mercial connnunity to carry fuel and water ])er[)etually 
 up hill, to be ])estered with ferries and nuilcted in 
 clearances and gradients, and to undergo a thousand 
 daily inconveniences, from a morbid ap]n"eliensioii of 
 future attack that may never occur !" Bi'tter far, one 
 would suppose, from mercantile considerations only to 
 choose the site, and if in time jn'operty should accumu- 
 late there, then to call upon science to fortify it.* 
 
 * 111 iul(..itii>n \<' llio f'orcjrdinfr, if Sun Jiinn or Oroas Isljind, 
 
 £ 3 
 
 il 
 
 f I 
 
t\i \: 
 
 S4 
 
 HARBOURS. 
 
 u 
 
 I. "v 
 
 The liigli opt'! I grounds between Victoria jind Esqui- 
 nialt Harbours would be a very liealthy place ibr a 
 princi]:)al military station, and being close to the naval 
 station, which the Government have so wisely selected, 
 detachments of troops could, in the event of war, be 
 rapidly conveyed to any point on the coast required, in 
 Her Majesty's steamers, on whicli, after all, should such 
 a calamity occur, the issue would mainly depend. 
 
 The harbour of Victoria is far from perfect, but is 
 capable of vast improvement at small outlay ; besides, 
 it almost joins Esquimalt Harbour, admitted to be the 
 most perfect harbour on the coast. Ilobson's Bay may 
 be said to be the port of Melbourne, though separated 
 from it by some miles. The waters of Esquimalt 
 and Victoria Harbours are in one place only 600 yards 
 apart ; and a line of railway to connect tliem would be 
 half the length of the Melbourne and HoDson's Bay 
 railway, whicli has been attended with such remark- 
 able success. Eeference to diagiam on Map II. will (Ex- 
 plain at once this question of iiarbours. The main 
 dtifect of Victoria Harbour is a sand bar from a to B, 
 having on it eight or nine feet at lowest Avater. The 
 basin ui tlie harbour is deep enough for vessels drawing 
 eighteen or twenty feet. Now if instead of connecting 
 the liai'l)ours by a canal d, as has been jjroposed, the 
 bridge at E were removed and the inlet embanked at c 
 instead, which would be preferable as fai' a^ the road is 
 concerned, and proper slidce-gates made in the em- 
 bankment, the bar at tlie entrance being once dredged, 
 the whole body of water from c to d might be used 
 continually to scour the harbour out and act upon the 
 
 
 % 
 
 cither of which coiiiinand'^ the approach to Now Wcstniinstor, si, )ul«l 
 be dechired not to l)cIonj>- to (iicat Britain, wliat purpo>-e coiiltl i»<* 
 gained l)y erecting Ibrtifications there ? 
 
w 
 
 IIOPETOWN, YALE, AND DOUGLAS. 
 
 65 
 
 |U1- 
 
 a 
 
 |va] 
 
 be 
 ill 
 
 kli 
 
 is 
 
 les, 
 
 he 
 
 ay 
 
 ^od 
 
 lalt 
 
 |i(ls 
 
 1)0 
 
 1 
 
 l)ar. If, in addition to this, the distance B a were 
 sliglitly narrowed with sheet-piling, the improvement 
 would be complete, and Victoria Harbour would be 
 made one of the best harbours for merchantmen on the 
 coast at a total expense not exceeding 5000/. or 6000/. 
 The water on the bar of Eraser Eiver is about the 
 same as on the bar of Victoria Harbour ; but in the first 
 case a vessel has five miles of it to cross, in the latter 
 say a few hundred yards.* 
 
 Hopetown, at the head of steam navigation on the 
 Fraser, is beautifully situated on the banks of the Que- 
 quealla Eiver. The town site is a perfect one, and the 
 variety and beauty of the surrounding scenery is such, 
 that I could not attempt to describe it. The same 
 remark might apply to Yale in a lesser degree. The 
 latter looks wilder and less cultivated. 
 
 These were ori<«;inallv the sites of Indian villaft'es; 
 
 CD V • O ' 
 
 not here alone, but invariably, the Indians on the coast 
 have shown great sagacity in choosing, for their village 
 sites, spots the most favoured by nature, commanding 
 and accessible at the same time. Fresh water, fuel, and 
 di'ainage are attended, to; facilities for boat navigation 
 are never forgotten; and, whether w^e look at their 
 camps, or from them, we quit them with the impression 
 tliat the savage has a clear conception of, and knows 
 how to appreciate, the picturesque and beautiful. 
 
 * Furtlier information on this subject will be found in tho Ap- 
 pendix, and in Pavliamcntary Papers relating to British Columbia, 
 dated 1859, Pai-t 11. pp. U, 19, and GO. 
 
 If Victoi'ia or Estpiimalt, tho head of sailing navigation within 
 the straits, is not the natural site for the British Capital on tlie North 
 Pacific, would it not be more reasonable to look for the desired 
 locality on the western coast, at Barclay Sound, for instance, clear 
 ol" the straits, than to run the gainitlct of tides and islands of the 
 (lulf of Georgia? 
 
 E 4 
 
\' 
 
 i\ 
 
 I 
 
 • lii 
 
 I 
 
 i- I 
 
 m 
 
 OSi: (Ai'lTAI. SL'KFICIKM'. 
 
 Port Douglas is u promising town, but the situ is very 
 limited. The town consists ut present of twenty small 
 dwellings, a saw-mill, and a wharf. No doubt tlic 
 several towns on Fraser Kiver will ultimately bear to 
 Victoria the same relation that Stocton, Sacramento, 
 and Mary's-ville now bear to San Francisco. 
 
 The local government of California for a considerable 
 time retarded the groAvth of San Francisco, by endea- 
 vouring to make ]3enicia the capittd. 
 
 Victoria has many advantages over San Francisco. 
 The cold gusts tliat constantly toward evening blow 
 upon the latter from seaward, through the Golden Gate, 
 as it were through a funnel, are far from agreeable, 
 carrying with them, as they frequently do, clouds of 
 exceedingly fine, penetrating sand. San Francisco is se- 
 piirated from the neighbouring agricidtural coimtry — 
 from the beautiful valleys of Santa Clara and San Jose, 
 by miles of sandy hillocks, hopelessly barren. There 
 shaky titles retard improvement, and the administra- 
 tion of justice is proverbially defective. To all this I 
 need hardly add Victoria presents a bright contrast. 
 
 As the country improves and population increases. 
 Government will, of course, have occasion to lay out 
 and dispose of many town sites. But there is in this 
 nothing to prevent the recognition of the principle — 
 one capital for the British possessions on the Pacific, 
 — or tlie announcement of the site of it, when finally 
 fixed upon. 
 
 •'i * 
 
iS '" J lief'' ^''-'' , 
 
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 C'lLvr. V. 
 
 INSTITUTION OF THE COI.oNIKS Ol' VAXCOL'VK I? ISLAND AND IlIMTISlI 
 
 COLL'MniA. TIIKIU l'l!0(iUi:SS TIIACKD, AND ((tMl'AliKD WITH THAI 
 
 OK THK AI)J()lNIN(i AMKUICAN STATKS. TIIKIU COMMKliCK. TOMCY 
 
 or i:noland and amkimca i;i;si'i:ctivi:ly, with i:egai;d to theii: 
 
 POSSESSIONS ON THE rACUTC. 
 
 ^Vl 
 
 Has tlio progress of Her Majesty's Colonies in tlie 
 Nortli-West Pacillc been connnensurate witli tlieir 
 natural geograpliieal and oonnnercial advantages, and 
 Avitli the resources of soils, minerals, timber, and 
 iislieries which they are shown to possess, with a 
 climate admitted to be better adapted to the constitu- 
 tion of Englishmen than that of any other portion of 
 the Western Hemisphere from Cape Ilorn to Aliaska ; 
 and if not, why not P — arc questions which I shall now 
 endeavour to answer to the satisfaction of the reader, 
 and at the same time to sliow, by a production of fjicts, 
 the preser.^ connnercial status of these colonies, with 
 reference to that of the American States adjoining. 
 
 The fust step taken by Great Britain to establish a 
 colony on the north-west coast, omitting at present the 
 consideration of Red Eiver Colony, as too far inland to 
 promise early success, was in 1849, one year after the 
 gold discoveries in California, when by a Crown grant 
 the Hudson's Fiay Company were entrusted with the 
 colonisation of Vancouver Island. The provisions of the 
 grant are too well known to reqinre detailed insertion 
 here ; Init the principal inducements held out to innni- 
 grants under it were as follows. 
 
 1st. — That no grant of hmd sliould contaui less ihan 
 twenty acres. 
 
 .n 
 
 i n 
 
tfS 
 
 INSTllX'TIOX OP THE COLONIES. 
 
 I 
 
 L 
 
 i 
 
 2n(l. — riircliasers of laud to pay one pound per acre. 
 
 3rd. — Tliut j)urclias(!rs of laud provide a passage to 
 V'aucouver Island for tlieuiselves aud their fauiilies, if 
 they have any ; or be provided with a passage (if they 
 prefer it) on paying for the same at a reasonable rate. 
 
 4tli. — That purchasers of larger quantities of land 
 shoidd pay the same price [)er acre, namely one pcmnd, 
 and should take out with them live single men, or three 
 married cou|)les, for eveiy hundred acres. 
 
 ,5tli. — That all minerals, wherever found, should 
 belong to tlie Company, who should have the right of 
 digging for the same, com[)ensation being made to the 
 owner of the soil for any injury done to the surface ; 
 but that the owner should have the privilege of working 
 for his own benefit any coal mine that might be on his 
 land, on payment of a royalty of half a crown per ton. 
 
 Gth. — That the right of fishing at first proposed to 
 be given to the Hudson's Bay Company, having been 
 relinquished, every freeholder should enjoy the right of 
 fishing ; and that all the ports and harbours should be 
 open and free to them, and to all nations either trading 
 or seekina; shelter therein. 
 
 The circular from which the above is taken, then 
 makes provision for the establishment of places of 
 ])ublic worshij), and the maintenance of ministers of 
 religion, a policy aiterwards abandoned ; and concludes 
 with a proposal to form a colonial legislature combin- 
 ing the usu{d elements of governor, council, and assem- 
 bly, with powers to enact laws and enforce taxes. 
 
 A [)rogramme so illiberal, so restrictive, and so de- 
 trimental to the memory of the colonial administration 
 of Earl Grey, for ten years stopped tlie settlement of 
 the country. Vltimately the grant was revoked, and 
 on the ist June 1859, Vancouvei' Island colony fell 
 dii'ecliy under llie managemeiil ol' tlie Crown, previous 
 
ALMKiED CAUSES OF NON-SETTLEMENT. 
 
 5U 
 
 to -wliic)! (late tlie exclusive rij^lit to trade from the 
 rjiciiic to the llocky Mountains, wliicli tiic Hudson's 
 1)11}' C^omi^any lind before possej^sed, was withchnwu, 
 and tlie colony of Hritisli Cohnnbiu instituted by the Act 
 of August 2nd, 185S. 
 
 The ()l)stncK's whicli T shall now enumerate have 
 been repeatedly assiirned antl accredited by the Go- 
 vernment, as having hitherto prevented the successful 
 development of these eohmies*: — 
 
 1st, — the attraction of the gold region of Caliform'a; 
 2nd, — the high rate of wages in the colony and terri- 
 tories adjoining preventing settlement ; 3rd, — the 
 great distance from Great Ikitaiu, involving either a 
 tedious \oyage of five months and 17,(100 miles, or 
 the expense of the overland route by ranama or the 
 l)laih-i ; 4th, — the high price of land; 5th, — Duties 
 averaging 24 per cent, levied on Ih-itish goods in the 
 neighboiuing American ports. 
 
 * '• The liiuli rato of waf^os in Oregon and Calilnrnia, and tlie 
 attraction of llie gold districts in the gold cunntry, have not oTily 
 operated to prevent persons of capital settling in Vancouver Island, 
 Imt have also obstructed the ITudson's Bay Company, and the Pnget 
 Sound Coni])any, in their endeavours to bring land into cultivation, 
 and provide means of Kid)sistence for settlers." — docenior of II. II. 
 Coiiijxiii// to Scrrctarj of Stutc for tlie Colonics, Xor. 21, iJSo^. 
 
 " Its conuncrce, trammelled and met by restrictive duties on every 
 side, its trade and resources remain undeveloped." — (lovcriwr of 
 Vancouver I<lan(Vs Address to Assonbfi/, Aiifjiist 12, 185G. 
 
 " Causes over which the local government Imd no control, antl 
 which are too well known to need recapitulation, have hitherto pre- 
 vented tlie settlement from acquiring that developnunt, which its 
 founders may have expected." — Secn'tari/ of State for the Colonies, 
 to Governor of Vancouver Island, Feb. 28, IS'iG. 
 
 See also index to IJeport of Select Committee on the Hudson's 
 T5ay Comjiany, umh-r heading, " Vancouvt'r Island; Causes of Non- 
 Settlement." '• 'I'lie distance from England, and the nearness of the 
 Californian gohl lields, have preventi'd the selilcnu-nt and progres.-^ 
 ol" the island." Also Blue Books on this s\d)iect. pas!<iii). 
 
 !|V; 
 
00 
 
 Tin: IlllAL 1]AU TO HKTTLKMKXT STll.L KXISTS. 
 
 W 
 
 I [ 
 
 And sinci', witli llic cxci'ptioii of No. 4, ilieso iiii- 
 ])('(liiiK'iits, if siicli, cijntiiiiK' to exist, it will be well to 
 I'XMiniiiL' iiitotlicniscpiiratcly: aiul T think itcaii be shown 
 (hat the eolonicvs of Xorth West America have not been 
 ri'tai'ded at all to the extent -iqiposed by the eonibina- 
 tion of '.'anses alleired ; but that the real bar t«i tiieii' 
 development ^till exists in their utter isolation and 
 absence of connection with each other ; in which remark 
 I include not Vancouver Island and Ih'itish Columbia 
 alone, but also Ked liiver, and (why not J') ^ascatche- 
 wan, all Avhich should derive, from connection, with 
 each other, the Canadas, and as a conseciuetice with 
 Iji'j'land, the same vitality, that Washinuton, Ore;^^>n, 
 Calilorniti, (uid the interveninji; states, derive from the 
 chain of excellent communications by land that bind 
 them to one another, and to the Eastern American 
 v^tates ; and in the case of Vancouver Island and 
 IJritish Columbia, in the want as well of main lines of 
 internal comnumicati(^n and of other works of a pub- 
 lic nature, indispensable to the success of the first 
 arrivals : that from want of numbers it is impossible 
 for these to procm'e by taxation the capital required to 
 open up connnunications in a country so vast and wild, 
 and endow it with the elements of success; but that if this 
 capital were once obtained, and judiciously and honestly 
 aj)plie(l, success would attend the first adventurers, 
 immigration on a large scale ensue, resulting in a pros- 
 perous, and therefore taxable pojiidation, sulliciently 
 munerous in a short time to i)ay the interest of what I 
 may term their national debt, and ultimately to dis- 
 charge the debt itself, and to add to the power and com- 
 merce of England ; that the requisite capital could 
 be procured, and the benefits stated conferred, without 
 trenching, to any great extent, upon tlu' revenues of 
 (iieat Drilain ; and 1 shall alleruards endeav(jur to in- 
 
1» 
 
 (>iir/;(»N STATi: and wasimxotov ti:uuit<M{y. 
 
 r.i 
 
 (licntc tlie luituiv niid I'Xtcut of [\\v \\\n'k> iv([iiiiv(l I'oi- 
 the pui'posc's ^tati'd, and ji|)[)n)xiiimti.'ly the cost of them. 
 I (lemur to the first imi)e(hm('nt, by adthicin;^' the 
 parallel iii>laiu'es of (Jreiroii and \Va.shiiiL,'toii. These 
 states, wliieh are notoriously not gold-producing, al- 
 tht)Ugli samples may l)e found there, as in Vancouver 
 Island, are nearer to Calil'ornia tlian the British settle- 
 ments are, therefore obstacles Xos. 1 and 2 have all along 
 api)lied to them more forcil)ly than to the hitter. 
 Oregon and Washington were formed into a territory 
 l)y Act of Congress, dated August 14, 1848, and Great 
 Britain commenced her colonies in January, 184i), 
 so it may be said the start was a fair one. As to com- 
 parative natural advantages, even Americans admit the 
 great superiority of those of the British settlements 
 Look at Oregon as its boundaries are now defined — 
 in point of [)hysical aspect, every ])art of the coast is 
 dangerous to navigation on account of the heavy surf con- 
 tinually beating against its shores; there is not a toler- 
 able or accessible harbour in its whole length, its rivers 
 are choked with sainl-bars : in i)oint of aii-ricultural 
 advantages, it certainly has its rich valleys, much in the 
 way that British Columbia has, from the sea to the 
 cascades, 80 to 150 miles ; and within this tract is 
 embraced the only valuable portion of the State. 
 Within the valleys of the Willamette, Umqiia, and li(\uue 
 Elvers, the fjirming population, and all the counties yet 
 established, are concentrated. The tract from th(^ 
 Cascades to the Blue Mountains, will never be of use 
 beyond some pastoral purpose. ,and from the Blue Moun- 
 tains to the liocky Mountains, has been justly charac- 
 terised as wild, sterile, and impractical)le ; mountain 
 ranges and isolated buttes ; and unless in the imme- 
 diate neighbourhood of the valleys of the ri\ers men- 
 
II' 
 
 
 I 
 
 h 
 
 i : : 
 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 
 '1; I 
 
 02 
 
 PKOORKSS I.V TIIH BUITISH COLOMKS. 
 
 tioiiod, the country is ;iltogetlu;r too rugged for any 
 i.vlustrhil ])urj)()se. 
 
 Of Washington Territory a more favourable tarcount 
 must be given: it lias its inlets, canals, and islands, the 
 latter often capable of the most profitable cultivation, 
 l)ut the Avhole tract of country within it ca])able of 
 cultivation is very limited, included within the narrow 
 sti'ip of C(juntry extending from Admiralty Inlet ^o the 
 Columbia, and hemmed in by the Cascade Mountains 
 and the 01ym})ic range : the great plain of the Columbia, 
 occupying the main width of the territory, from the 
 Com" d'Alene range to the outliers of the Cascades, is 
 a hopeless desert, and, unless close to the river and its 
 branches, utterly uninhabitable. 
 
 And now to compare results. Vancodvcr Idaud 
 colony was established ten years ago, and British t\>- 
 liDuhia two ; in ludther htive we, as yet, any farming 
 ])opulation \xnr{\\ mentioning. America feeds us ; 
 America cariies uur letters to us ; we reach them by 
 American steamers, or we travel by American routes ; 
 tlie bulk of the merchandise we consume comes from 
 American ])orts. In Vancouver Island, the rich valk>ys 
 of Cowichan, Puntledge, and Barclay Sound arc uncon- 
 nected and by land unapproachable. I was sixteen days 
 reaching Xitinat from Saiinich.* Even between Esqui- 
 mali Harbour and Victoria the ca])ital, three miles, 
 the r(jad is execrable, and while a smnll expenditui'e 
 would render Victoria Harbour one of the most com- 
 modious on the coast for v/halers or merchant vessels, 
 it remains unlighted and unfrequented. The island 
 is unim})roved, progress being I'utirely limited to Vic- 
 toria district and Victoria 'I'own, and caused in the 
 latter very exceptional cases, I l)elieve, by its fre(! jiort, 
 and the ellectt beneficial to it of the resti-ictive duties 
 
 * (50 or 70 miles. 
 
PROGRESS IX IXITEl) STATES ADJACENT. 
 
 cn 
 
 k'viucl ill American ports, as I shall iditurwards Inivo 
 occasion to show. 
 
 Ill British Columbia, with the exceptioJi of a few 
 trails, the only attcmj)t at ojx'iiin, a communication 
 into the interior lias been on the Jlai'rison Elver and 
 Lilouette i'oute, forty-four miles by water and ><ixty-four 
 miles by land. JMiners are the only pojrfilation. except 
 tlie few traders that supply them : the <H)Ui linds Itx 
 way to San Francisco, the miners winter tliere. m\A the 
 surface gold — the j)rincii)al inducement to Utbonrin^ 
 emiiiiants — threatens to be seriously diminished lH'»lbr»* 
 a iaiming])0})ulation is cstablislied in the country ; 4io 
 export triide of these -'jlonies is as yet too insinnil'r^iui, 
 to be worth detailing. 
 
 To coriplete the comparison, I shall now give the 
 result of a state census of Urvgon and Washingtx.o 
 combinc(l, taken in 1850. 
 
 Number of (hvollings 
 IS'iiinliiT of faiuiliv's 
 Nuiii'u'i- of liiniis . 
 
 . 2;]7i 
 
 Population 
 
 {white 
 frt-'c c 
 
 coloured 
 
 l;](»H7 
 207 
 
 . ik; 
 
 Wjlsllillnr|(|)1 
 
 Orcprou 
 Total 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 . 1201 
 
 . I20'.i;5 
 
 
 . l.o2'Jt 
 
 V)y the census taken in 1855, the [)Oj)ulation of 
 Oreo;on tilone was estimated at o8,o24, showino- an 
 increase of nearly 170 ])er cent, in three yeai's, and 
 had at the same time iifty manufacturing establish- 
 ments at work. 
 
 By a census taken in 1S5G, the jiojmlation of Wash- 
 higton territory \v'as 5500, and the following statementof 
 the exports of la>t year shows that their commerce kei)t 
 pace with their [)opiilation, tmd tluit notwithstanding 
 its greater distance from San Fnmcisco, Piiget Soimd has 
 nearly usinped the trade that formerlv belonm-d to 
 Humboldt 13ay, Unujua, and Trinidad. 
 
 AW 
 
 m 
 

 CA 
 
 t'OM.MKRCI-: OF I'fiiKT SoL'.VI). 
 
 11 
 
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 is = 
 5^ I 
 
 ^ 
 
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 3 
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 CO 
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 u 
 to 
 
 3 
 
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 CO 
 
 p 
 
 1 |tnlMnliii§ 
 
 t» ^ — ::;:::::::i — 
 
 1! ^iiiiiinn 
 
 = 
 
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 iiiiiiiiiinii 
 
 Tt 
 
 i i 1 1 • i 1 ■ 1 i i i 
 
 "• ^ i 1 i 1 1 i i ! I 1 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 S 
 
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 e i; ! n n n 1 n 
 
 si 
 
 n 1 
 
 1 
 
 ■^ : : : : _ I 1 : : : 
 
 S 
 
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 .. 1 1 1 1 1 ? 1 1 i 1 
 
 ^iniiiiiil 
 
 ::••::::!: 
 
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 1 
 
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 2* 
 
 1 
 
 ': 2 fl ? 3 ? ? Z ?i ;^ 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 : Mc— — — 
 
 - 1 
 
 ■a 
 c 
 
 k 
 
 "3 
 
 
 i'" 
 
 = 
 r. 
 
 1=1 iir M " 
 
 i 
 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 i '.'. h'?32:5 = f, = 2 
 
 £ tc ; T »- ;^ -T X 3^ .c I - ?i 
 
 X 
 
 
 — i -N -f T S M ?■! .* 
 
 ci ; ji' .f: « V -c 1^ r^ .' ■£ 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 • 
 ! 
 
 >• 
 
 1 
 
 : : ; 1 1 I j 1 • ! 
 : ! : : i : i ; : i 1 
 
 i : : : M : : : 1 
 
 * : h 1 i 1 i M 1 
 
 .»« y. ■/.-'; — s; > w i 
 
 1 
 
 & ^ 
 
 I - C X* 
 
 . ffl — •!■ (T 5> .-; rr — — r. ^ 
 C W W ^T X — ^cc :r — tC t^ 3 
 
 
 i 8 
 
 i S 
 
 t- I ■= 
 
 3S 
 
 «2 
 
 > M3 S 
 
 !^ 
 
 IS 
 
 ^ S£ 
 
 
 g 
 
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 1 I 
 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 -3 
 
 3 
 ii 
 
 3 
 
 "2 
 3 
 
 ■3 
 
 ■3 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 
 S 
 
THE LUMBER TRADE OF THE PACIFIC. 
 
 65 
 
 Exports of Lumber i-rom California. 
 
 FROM HUMBOLDT BAY. 
 
 To Mt'lltouriip 
 To Houolulii 
 
 To Australia 
 
 To Peni 
 
 To ]Mcxiao . 
 
 To Sandwich Islands 
 
 To Victoria, V.I. 
 
 To other Countries 
 
 Total feet 
 
 FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 000,000 
 I()0,()()() 
 
 i,i,3(V.)2;J 
 
 821,497 
 540,230 
 100,540 
 287,200 
 1,742,'J04 
 
 700,000 
 
 4,035,n00 
 
 . 5,335,3iM; 
 
 As to the s(3Coiid allegation, it will be at once ad- 
 mitted that the rate paid for laboui- of diflerent kinds 
 in San Francisco and California, regulates equally the 
 labour markets of Oregon, Washington, and tlie British 
 possessions ; a high rate of wages is tlie principal in- 
 ducemient ta the largest and most useful class of emi- 
 grants : far fnmi being an impediment to settlement, 
 the cause assigned ouglit to ])roduce in tliese colonies 
 the most beneficial effects. 
 
 From the foregoing I deduce tliat we must look 
 for some other agency than those stated in No. 1 and 
 No. 2, for tlie want of su(\'ess com])lained of 
 
 •I 
 
 Before ])assing to the considei'ation of Allegation 
 No. 3, I shall liere shortly detail the nature and 
 extent of the trade of the British colonies with San 
 Francisco, so as to give this l)rancli of the subject a 
 connected form. 
 
 The Pacific Mail Steam ComiJany run steamers once 
 n foi'tnight both ways, between Victoria and Sjin Fi-an- 
 
 1\ 
 
 if 
 
\r' 
 
 HI 
 
 11 
 
 ■Ji. . -iimj .u*j 
 
 I' 
 
 I 
 
 i^Vif 
 
 If 
 
 I 
 t 
 
 CG 
 
 KXI'OUTS. 
 
 cisco, cnnyiuji: pns.'seiigers ;it 1^.50 ii head, and freight 
 S2^) \)cv ton. Sixty-three vessels, re]:)resenting a tonnage 
 of 52,508, also cleared at San Francisco within the 
 Ifist year, carrying freight to the island at $il to Si, and 
 passengers tit ;^25 to $W : the vessels are lor the most 
 part American. 
 
 Our exports consisted of gold in 1859, to the value 
 of ,$2,0()(),()()(), as under that head was shown ; which 
 export in 1858 was estimated at ,f? 1,500,000. 
 
 Coal ([)erliaps) 2000 tons, in 1858 it was 17r\5 tons. 
 Oregon and Washington export about 200 tons a month, 
 and the whole amount of coal im[)orted into San Fran- 
 cisi'o from the coast north of it in 1850, was 4772 tons. 
 
 In addition to the above, we may have ix])orted 
 a small quantity of lish and oil, and a few barreL of 
 cranberries, and here we nuist stop. The s[)ars sent to 
 England in 1850, had to be j)rocured on tiie American 
 side ; as, although our timber is just the same and ports 
 to shi}) it from better, no business of the kmd had U[) 
 to that time been established either on the island or 
 the mainland.* I omit furs altogether from the con- 
 sideration of exports, aflbrding no criterion of colonial 
 wealtii or of colonial im[)rovement, but rather the 
 reverse. 
 
 Next, as to our impoils in 1850. The gold above 
 
 in San Francisco in 
 
 mentioned was sju'iit prmci 
 
 paliy 
 
 the j)urchase of the list of goods amiexed. 
 
 V.ili 
 
 iM' ()(" IniiMU't 
 
 is.'.it. 
 
 1" 
 
 { 
 
 iVoin Sim Fi-iincisco 
 ,, I'lijrcl SouikI 
 
 . ;ffi,l'.>i>,.'5.sn 
 r.t2.r);{'j 
 
 l(I.S,OHl 
 
 ^'1,500,000 
 
 * Some intorprisiiig TidiKioti iiicrcliniits lijivc i(.'(( ntly t'st;il)Iisli('(l, 
 iiikIci' si'vy Ji!>lt' iiiaiiiiui'iuoiit, a Imsincss nf this ilcscriptii)!) at llit> 
 lii'iid 111' I);ii-c!;iy Sound. 
 
IMPOKT.S. 
 
 67 
 
 In adc.tiou to this, the Iludsoirs Bay Company 
 imported some few cai^n'oes of En<i'lish o-ooJs, ])rinci- 
 pally for tlieir own trade, and which constituted the 
 only shipments of consequence from En.uland. 
 
 LIST OF GOODS SHIPPED FROjM SAN FllANCISCO TO VICTOIUA, V. I. 
 AND KRITISII COU'MIilA IN 1850. 
 
 Ahsyntlie, cs. . 
 Aj^iicultiiml imj)lcinont8, 
 Alcohol, bbls. . 
 
 do. C8. . 
 
 Anchors, no. . 
 Bacon, hhds. . 
 
 do. cs 
 
 do. i)k-s. . 
 Hurley, ba,i,'S 
 IJeaiis, hags 
 Reef, h!)ls. 
 do. cs. . 
 Beer, csks. 
 do. kegs . 
 do. cs. . 
 Bitters, cs. 
 Boilers, no. 
 Bouts and slioes, pkj 
 Buckwheat, bags 
 Butter, firkins . 
 Building niaterial.i — 
 
 Lumber, Ceet 
 do. pes. 
 
 Blinds, bdl. . 
 
 Doors, bdls. and 
 
 Sai«h, bdls. and no. 
 
 rickets, l)dl. . 
 Bran, bags 
 Brandy, hhds. . 
 do. i pipes 
 do. I pipes 
 do. octaves 
 ;h). cs. 
 Jiread, bbls. 
 
 do. cs. 
 
 do. pkgs. 
 Bricks, M. 
 Bronnix, doz. . 
 ('anipherie, crf. . 
 Candles, bxs. . 
 Carts, no. 
 Cement, bbls. . 
 Cider, bbls. . 
 
 do. cs 
 Cigars, cs. 
 Co;\], c^ks. 
 yoj)pcr, (•«. . 
 
 pes. 
 
 72 
 
 32 
 
 130 
 
 , 172 
 
 . JG 
 
 . 225 
 
 . 447 
 
 . 5.54 
 
 10.937 
 
 11,(J05 
 
 . J!) 
 
 21 
 
 . 8.58 
 
 11 
 
 . 1(11 
 
 . 122 
 
 2 
 
 1321 
 
 3 
 
 1028 
 
 ;87,2O0 
 . ! H 
 
 1 
 . 7i8 
 . 309 
 
 1 
 2473 
 . 13 
 
 3 
 . 27 
 . 442 
 . 4.i 
 . '*"7 
 
 . ;o7 
 
 . 473 
 
 . 203 
 
 . 179 
 
 . 857 
 
 2920 
 
 6 
 
 . 148 
 
 . 139 
 
 . 491 
 
 . 157 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 Corn, sks. 
 Corn meal, puns, 
 do. bbls. 
 do. sks. 
 Coil'ee, bags 
 
 do. C3. 
 Cordage, coiLs, 
 do. pkgs. 
 Cheese, b.\.s. 
 
 do. pkgs. . 
 Cliina goods, pkgs. . 
 ('hocolate, cs. . 
 Clothing, pkgs. 
 (Jlocks, ])kgs. . 
 ( 'rockery, csks. 
 do. pkgs. 
 Drug.s, pkgs. . 
 Dry goods, l>k'^^. 
 Fancy good.s, i>l<gs. 
 Fire crackers, bxs. . 
 Fisii, drums 
 do. bbls. 
 do kits 
 di\ bxs. . 
 Flour, bills. 
 do. iif. sks. . 
 do. qr. t ks. . 
 Fruit, green and dried, li 
 do, bxs. do. 
 do. pkgs. (b I. 
 Fiiruiturc, pkgs. 
 Gin, pipes and puns. 
 do. bbls. 
 d'.). kegs 
 do. cs. 
 Gla.s.s, bxs. 
 (lla.-suarc, pkgs. 
 (Jroceries, pkg'. 
 Guns, cs. 
 (lumiies, bdls. 
 do. bales 
 ir.im.s, casks 
 do, bbl.s. . 
 do. pkgs. 
 Flanlwiirc, pkgs 
 Hay, bal(\s 
 Ilollow-ware, pkgs. , 
 
 . 9S 
 
 4 
 
 . 40 
 
 . .'i8l 
 
 . .544 
 
 . 300 
 
 . 251 
 
 . 95 
 
 . 95 
 
 . 118 
 
 1013 
 
 . 20 
 
 , 000 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 . 35 
 
 . 904 
 
 1 f)3.« 
 
 4 
 
 . 450 
 
 . 19 
 
 6 
 
 . 140 
 
 . 28 
 
 2054 
 
 4020 
 
 39,701 
 
 . 145 
 
 . 481 
 
 . 04 
 
 1130 
 
 . 57 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 . 248 
 
 . 168 
 
 . 131 
 
 2507 
 
 4 
 
 . 104 
 
 48 
 
 . 15 
 
 260 
 
 . 33 
 
 2250 
 
 2911 
 
 . 10 
 
 -lA' 
 
 iM 
 
 IV 
 
 B} 1 
 
 m 
 
■JJU... ... 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 " 
 
 i 
 
 'J 
 
 hi 
 
 t : 
 
 i :- 
 
 \ 
 
 t » 
 
 . 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 : 
 
 .. 
 
 
 
 
 i. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 '■ 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 t 
 i 
 
 
 
 * r 
 
 
 i-l 
 
 
 G8 
 
 l.\l PORTS ANAI-YSRI). 
 
 IloUow-wni'c. pes. . 
 
 .^6 
 
 Rice, mats 
 
 10,209 
 
 Hops, (s 111 d bales . 
 
 23 
 
 do. csks. 
 
 . 36 
 
 Iron ])i|. ; \ . . . 
 
 200 
 
 Hum, i)uns. 
 
 . 23 
 
 Lard, bbls. 
 
 f) 
 
 do. bbls. 
 
 . 45 
 
 do. cs. ... 
 
 397 
 
 do. keg 
 
 1 
 
 Leather, rolls . . . . 
 
 21 
 
 SadiUery, pkgs. 
 
 . 13 J 
 
 Lead, white, kegs 
 
 17-2 
 
 Sales, iron, no. 
 
 . 17 
 
 Tiinie, bl)i.<* 
 
 423 
 
 Salt, sks. . 
 
 . 518 
 
 Li(|iieur.«, cs. . . . . 
 
 104 
 
 do. bbls. 
 
 14 
 
 Li(liiors, »iisj)ceificd, octaves 
 
 .59 
 
 do. b.\s. 
 
 44 
 
 do. do. bbls. 
 
 71 
 
 Sardines, cs. 
 
 101 
 
 do. do. k'gs 
 
 250 
 
 Saw mills, no. . 
 
 2 
 
 do. do. cs. 
 
 400 
 
 Ship chandlery, pkgs. 
 
 . 255 
 
 do. do. pkgs. 
 
 248 
 
 Shot, bags 
 
 . !'•> 
 
 Mnccaroni, bxs. 
 
 132 
 
 do. kt'gs 
 
 . 9 
 
 Machinery, pes. and pkgs. 
 
 393 
 
 Soap, ';xs. 
 
 5095 
 
 Mnlt, sks. 
 
 38C 
 
 Si)iees, es. 
 
 . 489 
 
 Matches, cs. . 
 
 103 
 
 do. J)kgs. 
 
 . 50 
 
 Matting, rolls . 
 
 62 
 
 Spirits turpentine, cs. 
 
 . «3 
 
 Merchandise, pkgs. . 
 
 1017 
 
 Starch, bxs. 
 
 . 112 
 
 Metals, oars 
 
 GOO 
 
 Stationery, pkgs. 
 
 . 169 
 
 do. cs. and bdls. 
 
 409 
 
 Steel, pkgs. 
 
 . 239 
 
 Molasses and syrnps, bbls. 
 
 . 1.5 
 
 Stoves, no. and pkgs. 
 
 . 816 
 
 do. kegs . 
 
 1252 
 
 Sugar, mats 
 
 2132 
 
 do. cs. . 
 
 . 153 
 
 (Id. bbb. 
 
 . 465 
 
 Nails, kegs 
 
 . 751 
 
 do. bxs. und cs. . 
 
 348 
 
 Nuts, pkg.s. 
 
 . 37 
 
 do. l»kgs. . 
 
 . 56 
 
 Oats, bajis 
 
 1410 
 
 Tar, bbls. 
 
 . 2 
 
 Oakum, bales . 
 
 . 90 
 
 Teas, pkgs. 
 
 . 802 
 
 Oars, no 
 
 . 442 
 
 Tin, plate, bxs. 
 
 . 180 
 
 do, lik;,.!. 
 
 38 
 
 Tin wf.re, pkgs. 
 
 . 12 
 
 Oil, bbls 
 
 . 65 
 
 Tobacco, bales 
 
 . 7 
 
 <lo cs 
 
 170 
 
 <lo. cs. and bxs. 
 
 . 855 
 
 do. iikgs. 
 
 . 31 
 
 Tools, pkgs. 
 
 10 
 
 Paints, i)kgs. . 
 
 . 937 
 
 Trunks, no. 
 
 . 79 
 
 I'aper, pkgs. . 
 
 97 
 
 Tubs, nests 
 
 . 38 
 
 Pianos, no. 
 
 7 
 
 Twine. l)kgs. . 
 
 
 
 Tickles, preserves, &c. 
 
 1484 
 
 Vinegar, bbls. . 
 
 . 32 
 
 do. kegs . 
 
 . 350 
 
 do. kegs . 
 
 . 81 
 
 do. Jikgs. . 
 
 29 
 
 VVaggi/ns, no. . 
 
 3 
 
 Pipes, cs 
 
 . 95 
 
 Wheat, bags . 
 
 . 177 
 
 pitch, bbls. 
 
 . 38 
 
 Whisky, puns. 
 
 . 39 
 
 Piaster, bbls. . 
 
 . 90 
 
 do. es. 
 
 . 236 
 
 I'ork. b'>ls. 
 
 . 310 
 
 do. bbls. . 
 
 . 136 
 
 I'otatoes, bags 
 
 . 394 
 
 do. kegs . 
 
 . 51 
 
 PiiwiitT, kegs . 
 
 . 34 
 
 Wine, pipes 
 
 3 
 
 do. bxs. . 
 
 . 23 
 
 do. csks. 
 
 . 187 
 
 Printing piatcrials. pkgs . 
 
 7 
 
 do. bbis. 
 
 . 32 
 
 I'rovisions, unspecilied, pkgs. 
 
 . 174 
 
 do. kegs. 
 
 . 32 
 
 I'unip.s, no. 
 
 11 
 
 do. c?. 
 
 1258 
 
 .I'lire spirits, pip(8 . 
 
 . 12 
 
 do. bskts. 
 
 . 242 
 
 do. bills 
 
 . 9 
 
 Yeast powders, es. . 
 
 . 128 
 
 Quicksilver, flasks . 
 
 . 19 
 
 Zinc, rolls. 
 
 . 17 
 
 A close cxiiinination of tliis li.st will throw a flood of 
 lijjjlit on tilt' prosc'iit corditioii of the colonies. In the 
 (irst pliU'e tlie fold! amount is astonishingly hirge, nearly 
 
EXPORTS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 69 
 
 equal in value to that of tlie entire export of the stai)le 
 coininodities of San Francisco, such as hides, h(^rns, oil, 
 wool, iScc. to New York, and far exceeding'' the exports 
 of San Francisco to any other i)ort. 
 
 The annexed table, showing the aggregate value of 
 tlif exports of San Francisco, and among what countries 
 distributed, for the })ast four years, according to returns 
 made to the custom-house, will corroborate the state- 
 ments last made. 
 
 To 
 
 New York .... 
 Aublrulia .... 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Peru ... 
 OrtiU Britain . . . 
 
 Fr.mco 
 
 Sandwich Islands . 
 
 Cliina 
 
 Russia in America . 
 Russia in Asia . . 
 
 Ciiile 
 
 Society Islands . . 
 Now Grenada . . 
 Ports in Pacific . . 
 Jolinson's Island . . 
 Vancouver Island . 
 Costa Rica . • . 
 Fast Indies . . . 
 
 Batavia 
 
 Nicaragua .... 
 San Salvador . . . 
 
 Mimilla 
 
 Japan 
 
 Gut'.m (Ladronc) Isl's 
 
 Touil 
 
 18.59. 
 
 dullats. 
 
 1,418,100 
 
 7;50,427 
 
 G82,490 
 
 156,016 
 
 29,100 
 
 7,000 
 
 558,538 
 
 252,061 
 
 15,640 
 
 55,505 
 
 .347,034 
 
 52,606 
 
 205,9.52 
 
 2,155 
 
 1,147 
 
 1,199,380 
 
 13,779 
 
 1,455 
 
 .3.912 
 514 
 
 1858. 
 
 dollars. 
 
 1,284,000 
 380,099 
 702,112 
 137,872 
 
 273,535 
 
 224,568 
 
 3,875 
 
 5.1,174 
 
 150,495 
 
 54,523 
 
 46,617 
 
 1,41.3,221 
 
 38,025 
 
 278 
 
 6,779 
 
 797 
 
 10,193 
 
 .5,533,411 I 4,780,163 
 
 1857. 
 
 dollars. 
 
 2,158.000 
 314.604 
 744,055 
 139,700 
 
 29.5,200 
 313,896 
 36,.545 
 68,607 
 157,698 
 51,576 
 40,000 
 
 30,149 
 2,999 
 
 2,500 
 
 7,086 
 7,143 
 
 4,369.758 
 
 1856. 
 
 dolL:ri 
 
 1,113,500 
 
 1,12.3,367 
 
 781,059 
 
 337,693 
 
 240,.3O3 
 2J9.942 
 127,-; 11 
 
 116,787 
 61,819 
 43,126 
 35,453 
 
 2.3,.376 
 
 12,000 
 
 2,7.50 
 
 2,430 
 
 4,270,516 
 
 Examining the goods' lis*" in detail, we find that it 
 includes every kind of agricultural produce, not even to 
 the exclusion of h:iy. Freights are liigh on the coast, 
 and hay is bulky and liable to heat and set fire to the 
 ship. Notwithstanding all this, in winter when hay is 
 indispeiisablv! at Victoriji, and sells at prices rauging 
 
 \ 
 
 f 
 
 \i4 
 
' f-^mm 
 
 I 
 
 \u 
 
 I •* 
 
 il 
 
 i 
 
 r\ 
 
 t4 
 
 i 
 
 ,' ' ' 
 
 < '■ 
 
 ^1f 
 
 :! 1 
 
 If 
 
 70 
 
 SAN rUANC'ISro I'KICKS. 
 
 IVom iS/. to Ki/, j)L'r ton, Ctilironiiaii Imy is the only hay 
 in the market, a faet exoeedinuly eiicoiiragiii*r to uiteiul- 
 iii;^- eini;^rant fanners from this eonntry. The list iti- 
 chides every kind of hiiildin^^ material, lumber, brieks, 
 c'^c. At the close of IS')!) theie was but one saw-mill at 
 work, or I believe, in existence, and not a single brick- 
 making machine in the island. The bulk of the lumber 
 we consume is sui)|)lied fmm Tuget ISoinid, as seen by 
 ti Ibrmer tabular statement. 
 
 Wir.le on this subject I would mention, the retail 
 price of anything in vSan Francisco is about four times 
 as much as it would be in London ; and {dtliough 
 cargows lVe([uently arrive there to fmd an overstocked 
 nuu'ket, antl are sold at a loss to the owners at auction 
 or otherwise, still these retail prices vary but little I'rom 
 lime to time. In Victoria retail ])rices are genei'ally 
 I') per cent, higher than in San Francisco. The 
 Hudson's Day Company sell lower considei-ably, but 
 gcnei-aliy send a stock of goods unsuited to the; market, 
 selected, as tluy arc, I'or a special })urj)ose. 
 
 Passing on to Allegation No. 3, let us inquire to what 
 extent distance from I'-ngland letards the settlouent «»!' 
 these colonies, and whethei' this is an element so 
 damauini!' that it cannot be ovej'come. 
 
 The Atlantic can now be crossed at an ex[)ense, 
 ranging from 21. lU.s'. u[)war(ls, and for that small sum 
 the l)riti>h emigrant can be carried to the eastern 
 coast of th(! American continent. If, therefore, a road 
 to the ihitish colonies on the western coast were 
 constructed, emigrants from Great Britain and from 
 the United States would, with the excei)tion of that 
 small diderence, be on .,n e({uality with res[)ect to the 
 rxpcnst' ol lo('<)iii()tion. 
 
FiISTANX'K FROM KNULAXD. 
 
 71 
 
 The American torritoi-ios smith of tlie Britisli are 
 principally jieopled rfi} San Francisco, where 3(),(l()0 
 1o 1(1,000 ])c()j)le ari'ive within the yeai\ and we have 
 the evidence of jVfr Ilorjice Gi'eely* and others, that the 
 ^ixreat mass of this increase of popnlat ion conies fi'om tlie 
 Atlantic slope dii'ccl. and that these territories are not 
 pri)<iressiv('bj poimhih'd. The ])assenjxcr statistics of tlie 
 poll of San Francisco and of the ovei'land routes cor- 
 roborate this statement; and it may safely be asserted, 
 that three out of four ariivals at San Francisco hav(! 
 either crossed the continent or the isthmus. liut, in 
 addition to a route by which the colonies can be 
 reached, internal communications are indispensable to 
 the success of the emi^Lriant ; I'oi' instance, the dilHculty 
 of transport only was removed, in the case of emigrants 
 sent ])y the Hudson's IJiiy CV)mj)any to Vancouver 
 Island, the majorily of whom took leavi; of the liritish 
 settlements shortly mI'Ici" llicii' jirrival, and found oc- 
 cupation on American farms, or work in American 
 mills. 
 
 The difliculty of tiansport only was also removed in 
 tlie case of hosts of deserters, Irish, (lermans, juid others 
 from tilt Vmerican army of the west, wIk^sc interests 
 would have led them, if possil)le, to settle (mt of their own 
 country, in ^'ancouver Island or in Jiritisji Columbia, 
 
 i 
 
 * "Of course those (the Jimiual increase) wure not all from the 
 Atlantic islopc, via the Istliinun or Xioararrua ; Ixit the great mass of 
 them were." — Oi'fivhtnd Journei/ to C(i/i/ornii(, IH')'.*, p. .')(!'■(. 
 
 Tn 18')1>, arrivals at San Francisco by sea were . . . JHjrt.') 
 
 Departure ....... 21, 7H] 
 
 By vjwious overland routes 
 
 AfUlitioii tn the piipiihitii'ii 
 
 r 1 
 
 l.'^,102 
 
 .•5S,U>2 
 
,0.«J ^ 
 
 «l 
 
 " 1 
 
 "• k 
 
 *,{, 
 
 I 1 
 
 4i 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 ■i 
 
 i i M- 
 
 tli If 
 
 ft 
 
 72 
 
 LANDED INTEREST. 
 
 on the same principle as our deserted seamen settle in 
 American territoiy ;• but I cannot call to mind a single 
 ii"*tance of their having done so. 
 
 Inl8.58 and 18.')1), a considerable numberof Canadians, 
 after sufTering great hardships by coming by the over- 
 land trails, to my own knowledge went back discouraged. 
 These men had spent all the money they had, in tra- 
 velling to the island rIA lied Kiver : their intention was 
 to farm, which, without some cajutal to commence 
 with, is not renunicrative — had they been labourers 
 they would no dou])t have remained, as it was, they 
 returned imj)overished and exhausted. 
 
 From the considerations above stated, it may be 
 gathered that imtil these colonies are traversed by a 
 main road, and internal conuuunications established, 
 even if carried there free of expense, emigrants may 
 still find it more profitable to settle elsewhere. 
 
 That the price of land has hitherto been too liigli in 
 these colonies, particularly when America was in many 
 ])laces "donating" contiguous lands, and that the pre- 
 em])tive law, recently i)romulgati'd in British Columbia, 
 will have tiie best effects, I am fnlly prei)ared to admit. 
 
 And while regarding this as the best measure up 
 to the time of a governor of acknowledged ability, 
 and hoping that its benefits will soon be c'xtended 
 to the isl.md, I cannot believe that it is alone sidficient 
 to relieve these colonies from the stagnation under 
 which they sull'er. 
 
 For the last five years, land, although too dear, 
 has not been o[)pressively so on the island. To be 
 sure the nominal })rice was 1/. per acre; but a liberal 
 allowance for rock and swamp. ]iayment Ijy instal- 
 
SPECULATOKS IN LANDS. 
 
 73 
 
 iiu'iits, allowing an interval of two years to elapse 
 before the payment of the second, greatly modified those 
 terms to the advaiitapre of the early settler; still the 
 country lands continued un(H'cu[)ied ; hut in addition 
 to this, in 1852 and 185') the governor tiied to es- 
 tablish IVcjutiei vilhiges, offering free grants of twenty 
 acres to persons of his own selection, with no otiier 
 restriction than the sti[)ulation of receiving their com- 
 bined servici*^ in the event of Indian disturbances in 
 the neighbourhood, whi< h there was then some reason 
 to apprehend — bit without success. The fact is, in 
 these, as in cveiy oilier new colony, speculators in 
 land are a class who clamour again>t and assail, under 
 the cl(jak of advocating liberal measures, every act of 
 Government which has not a tendency to place the 
 lands of the colony in their hands in anticipation of 
 settlement ; and attacks on Government on this head 
 should be examined into with caution and even with 
 mistrust. The settlers in the new American states, 
 not satisfied with a very liberal preemptive law, ask to 
 have the land for nothing. The Secretary of the 
 Interior, hi his annual reports of 1859, alludes to the 
 expectation in the public mind that Congress would 
 pass a law making j^ "gratiutous distribution of the 
 ])ul)lic domain : " anci igain, " should, however, the 
 new policy of a gratiiit(3us distribution of the public 
 lands be adopted," c^c., which is enough to show that 
 Avhatever enactments on this subject are made, land 
 
 grievances will still continue. 
 
 Again, where sldlled labourers can earn 300/. a 
 year, and common labourers 150/., it is im[)ossible 
 that 5*'. to 10s. an acre, the price at which lands have 
 been hitherto oflered, can have been the l)ar to their 
 settlement ; fully admitting at the same time as T do. 
 
 
 Ji 
 
■ 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.25 
 
 ■ii|M 12.5 
 
 S la 12.0 
 
 6" 
 
 U 11.6 
 
 Hiotographic 
 .Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WiST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) •73-4503 
 
 iV 
 
 sj 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 ' «' 
 
 "S^ 
 
 ^.>^ 
 
 
 \ 
 
■ 
 
 
74 
 
 PRICE 01^ LAND. 
 
 if* 
 
 • • * 
 
 III: '!:,(' 
 
 H 
 
 111', »!'■ 
 
 ■ 1/ 
 
 1 ' 
 
 m 
 
 III ^ 
 
 1 ;! ' 
 
 the sound policy, but not the absokite necessity, of 
 making this first tax on the settler as moderate as 
 possible. 
 
 Again, at the prices first named, the cost of fencing 
 a piece of land is much greater than the price of it ; 
 the oxen and plough required to break it up will be 
 worth more than a hundred acre section ; and on going 
 in this way further into particulars, we at length find 
 that the price of land is but an item, and a compara- 
 tively small one, in farming expenditure ; and yet it 
 is not contended that" the other and greater items 
 alluded to prevent the settlement and development of 
 a country. 
 
 The last allegation (No. 5) touches reciprocity. 
 
 I do not meddle with the question. Whether free 
 trade between the British and Americans on the west 
 coast, would or would not benefit either or both, but 
 merely undertake to show that the want of it has 
 not been as yet influential in retarding the former. 
 
 The following consideration ought not to be lost sight 
 of; the extravagant prices of American merchandise 
 of every description on the coast is attributable, in 
 some measure, to their exorbitant port dues, but 
 mainly to the 24 per cent, tarifi" which of course 
 prevents American merchants from procurmg their 
 goods in the cheapest markets. 
 
 Suppose Victoria with its free port once to become 
 the depot of British merchandise. She must command 
 the retail market of the entire Sound and British 
 Columbia, and undersell the Americans in the Russian 
 settlements and Sandwich Islands, to say nothing of 
 the opposite Asiatic coast. 
 
RECIPROCITY. 
 
 75 
 
 Hitherto, as before explained, Victoria has had no 
 trade wortli mentioning with England ; her wants were 
 supplied from San Francisco, and nded by San Francisco 
 prices ; the desu'ed result has not yet taken place. 
 
 If we had had a surplus of agricultiu^al produce, 
 lumber, wool, fish, &c., there was nothing to prevent 
 our sending it, as San Francisco has done, to the 
 Eussian settlements. South America, Australia, Sand- 
 wich Islands, China, and even Japan. Why complain 
 of the want of a market for goods of which we are 
 consumers only, and not producers? After the com- 
 munication to and within the colonies shall have been 
 established, and commerce with England result from 
 population, the Americans themselves will be the first 
 to find the disadvantage of their restrictive duties in 
 competing with us at the more distant markets.* 
 
 * Extract from the Government Address on opening the General 
 Assembly at Victoria, August 12, 185G : — 
 
 " Gentlemen, I am happy to inform you that Her Majesty's Govern- 
 ment continue to express the most lively interest in the progress and 
 welfiire of this colony. 
 
 '' Negotiations arc now pending with the Government of the United 
 States, which may probably terminate in an extension of the reci- 
 procity treaty to Vancouver Island. 
 
 " To show the commercial advantages connected with that treaty, I 
 will just mention that an import duty of 30^. is levied on every 
 lOOZ.'s worth of British produce which is now sent to San Francisco, 
 or to any other American port ; or, in other words, the British pro- 
 prietor pays as a tax to the United States, nearly the value of every 
 third cargo of fish, timber, or coal, which he sends to any American 
 port. The reciprocity treaty utterly abolishes those fearful imposts, 
 and establishes a system of free trade in the produce of British 
 colonies. 
 
 " The effects of that measure, in developing the trade and natural 
 resoui-ces of the colony, can, therefore, hardly be over-estimated. 
 
 " The coal, the timber, and the productive fisheries of Vancouver 
 Island, will assume n v.'iluc before unknoAvn ; while every branch of 
 
 11'^ 
 
 \Wsi 
 
 \ \H 
 
 l-:i: 
 
7e 
 
 RECIPROCITY. 
 
 ; ', 
 
 Jl 
 
 It was an admitted maxim of the customs' depart- 
 ment in England that when an import duty exceeded 
 30 per cent., to prevent smuggHng was impossible. If 
 this was true in England, with a fleet of revenue cut- 
 ters, and picketed with coa^t guards, how much more 
 forcibly will the argument apply to the frontier that 
 separates the British colonies from America, exposed 
 and extended as that frontier is! As soon as wo 
 commence to undersell our neighbours, we shall supply 
 them independently of tariffs. 
 
 I do not say that a removal of those duties would 
 not benefit both, but merely that our neighbours will 
 first have cause on that score to complain. 
 
 At a pubUc meeting of the inhabitants of Minnesota 
 at St. Paul's (July 10th, 1858), the following reso- 
 lution was passed : — " That the people of Minnesota 
 will join heartily with the people of Canada in the pohcy 
 of colonising the western districts of British America, 
 which is about to be established ; and that relations 
 of reciprocal trade with the United States, if not now 
 existing, should be extended over that region of North 
 America." 
 
 . I 
 
 trade will start into activity, and become the means of pouring 
 wealth into the country. 
 
 " So unbounded is the reliance which I place in the enterprise and 
 intelligence possessed by the people of this colony, and in the ad- 
 vantages of their geographical position, that, with equal rights and a 
 fair field, I think they may enter into successful competition with 
 the people of any other country. 
 
 " The extension of the reciprocity treaty to this island once gained, 
 the interests of the colony will become inseparably connected with 
 the principles of free trade, a system which, I think, it will be sound 
 policy on our part to encourage." 
 
 It is hardly necessary to say, the proposed measure did not t^a 
 effect. 
 
 I i 
 
RECIPROCITY. 
 
 77 
 
 I doubt if an exception can be raised even in the 
 matter of coals. The greatest portion by far of the 
 coals consumed in San Francisco is English, and they 
 also consume for domestic purposes as much Vancouver 
 Island as Oregon coal. The observations previously 
 made on this head show that the prospects of finding 
 coal, suitable for steam purposes, in Vancouver Island 
 are much more promising than in Oregon. At present 
 say San Francisco pays 5/. a ton for Enghsh coal, while 
 Nanaimo coal is sold at 1/., and adding BS to Si freight, 
 and 24 per cent, duty on the cost of production, Nanaimo 
 coal will still be the cheapest in the market ; and we 
 see a certainty of sale for aU the coal suitable for 
 steam purposes that Vancouver Island or British Co- 
 lumbia can produce * : and how great the consumption 
 is, may be conjectured from the fact, that a year ago 
 the aggregate tonnage of San Francisco steamers ex- 
 ceeded 35,000 tons, p figure which must since then 
 have materially increased. 
 
 The greatest anomaly under this head existing is, 
 that British Columbia should impose 10 per cent, duties 
 on the produce imported from Vancouver Island ; for 
 although many articles are exempt from this regula- 
 tion, it applies to the supplies which the miners prin- 
 cipally require ; such as flour, beans, salt meat, &c., — 
 a source of revenue for which it is probable a direct 
 tax on gold exported will ultimately be substituted. 
 
 From the enumeration and discussion of alleged 
 causes of non-settlement of these colonies, I have 
 omitted altogether one that has been occasionally as- 
 
 * This view is in fact confirmed by a letiov received lately from the 
 island, mentioning that the tonnage carrying coal from Nanaimo in 
 the month of January last had increased to 2000. The price of 
 Nanaimo coal at the pit's mouth varies from ^4 to $f). 
 
 ^ 
 
 P-\ 
 
 
 m 
 
78 POLICY OF GRKAT BRITAIX AND U. STATES COxMPARKD. 
 
 A' U 
 
 :\ S 
 
 '•'', 
 
 1 1 ■ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 I 
 
 signed, viz. that the Iliidsoii's Bay Company used their 
 influence systematically and intentionally to discourage 
 and retard settlement in tlie country, because I thouglit 
 it useless to enter upon or refute a charge which has not 
 been accredited, by any unprejudiced person familiar 
 with the facts, although my intimate acquaintance with 
 the subject, and absence of all connection with the Com- 
 pany, would fully enable me to do so. Underselling 
 merchants of less capital, by whom they are surrounded, 
 is a very unpopular avocation, and whetlier they do so 
 in Oregon or the colonies, it will have the same effect, 
 a chorus of denunciatic^n will attend tliem wdierever 
 they trade. 
 
 Having disposed of our first inquiries, we are here 
 naturally led to ask why is it that America has suc- 
 ceeded so well with her colonies in the north-west, 
 where England has comparatively, I miglit almost say 
 signally, failed ? The cause is, on examination, suffi- 
 ciently obvious. Each nation asserts and acts upon a 
 policy towards its colonies thei'e, diametrically opposite 
 to that of the other. 
 
 England proposes to the first emigrant, land to oc- 
 cupy with free histitutions, and leaves it optional to 
 them to establish for their own benefit, and that of 
 their successors, all leading communications, execution of 
 survey, public works, and postal arrangements, or to omit 
 to do so if they feel unwilling or unequal to tlie task. 
 
 America, on the contrary, insists on the execution of 
 those works of magnitude which she considers essential 
 to begin with, holding the lands and the revenues 
 derivable from customs and posts, until fully indemni- 
 fied for the outlay incurred. 
 
 To show that this case is correctly stated, I shall first 
 quote from the despatches of Sir Edward Bulwer 
 
 I i 
 
i. 
 
 POLICY OP GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 79 
 
 Lytton the principle on which the colony of British 
 Columbia was founded, and which, I may add, lias 
 been as strictly as possible adhered to, up to the 
 present time. 
 
 "October 29th, 1858.— Now as the Motlier Country 
 expects all colonies, not conquered nor foimded for 
 purely imperial purposes, to be self-supporting, &c.," 
 and again, ''Dec. 30th, 1858. — I cannot avoid remind- 
 ing you, that the lavish pecuniary expenditure of the 
 Mother Country in founding new colonies has been 
 generally found to discourage economy, by leading tlie 
 minds of men to rely on foreign aid instead of tlieir 
 own exertions ; to interfere with the healtliy action by 
 which a new commmiity provides step by step for its 
 own requirements ; and to produce at last a general 
 sense of discouragement and dissatisfaction. For a 
 colony to thrive and develope itself witli steadfast and 
 healthfid progress, it should from the first be as far as 
 possible self-supporting. 
 
 " No doubt it miglit be more agreeable to tlie pride 
 of the first foimders of a colony wliicli promises to 
 become so important, if we could at once throw up 
 public buildings, and institute establislmients on a scale 
 adapted to the prospective grandeur of the infimt 
 settlement. But after all, it is on the character of tlie 
 inhabitants that we must rest our ho])es for tlie land 
 we redeem from the wilderness ; and it is by self- 
 exertion, and the noble spirit of self-sacrifice which self- 
 exertion engenders, tiiat communities advance through 
 rough beginnings to permanent greatness. Therefore 
 it is not merely for the sake of s[)aring the Mother 
 Country that I invite your cordial and intelligent co- 
 operation in stimulating the pride of the colonists to 
 submit to some necessary privations in the hrst instance, 
 
 I ' 
 
 [ ;i 
 
 le I 
 
w 
 
 80 
 
 POLICY OF GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 ■'fi 
 
 and to contribute liberally and voluntarily from their 
 own earnings (wliicli appear to be so considerable), 
 rather than to lean upon the British Parliament for 
 grants, or for loans, which are rarely repaid without dis- 
 content, and can never be cancelled without some loss 
 of probity and honour. It is my hope that when the 
 time arrives for representative institutions, the colony 
 may be committed to that grand experiment unem- 
 barrassed by a shilling of debt, and the colonists have 
 proved their fitness for self-government by the spirit of 
 independence which shrinks from extraneous aid, and 
 schools a community to endure the sacrifices by which 
 it guards its own safety and provides for its own 
 wants," &c. 
 
 Eloquent as the despatch from which the foregoing 
 is extracted is, and matchless as a piece of literary 
 composition, I cannot avoid thinking that the principles 
 laid down in it might with advantage be re-considered. 
 If, as Adam Smith says, the same reasoning may, in 
 cases of this kind, be applied to communities as to in- 
 dividuals, it would be equally impolitic for an indi- 
 vidual to borrow money at interest, on the security of 
 a large landed estate, for its improvement ; repayment 
 of such a loan would occasion discontent ; and, if the 
 lender should propose to cancel the bond and with it 
 the debt, the borrower would experience a certain 
 twinge of moral degradation. Colonial infancy is 
 ignored : the chrysalis must % at once. Placed in the 
 heart of a country of great promise and capabilities, but 
 at present inaccessible and uninliabited, the reader, 
 if he were to commence as a farmer or merchant, 
 would, in this view, succeed better without roads to 
 travel or traffic upon, or posUl communications to 
 distract ; and the habit of self-reliance thus engendered. 
 
 i i' 
 
POLICY or OTIKAT nUlTAIX. 
 
 81 
 
 would be more valuable to him, fjir, than tlic profit of 
 capital, however judiciously exjK'uded. 
 
 Oil the other hand it may be possible, that if a tract of 
 country is adapted by nature foi* early settlement, its 
 lands, and the revenues derivable from the po[)ulation, 
 which, with reasonable facilities and access, its resources 
 may, within the first year or two, attract and enrich, may 
 afford ample security for the capital required to develo})e 
 and place those resources within the reach of the immi- 
 grants intended: that otherwise such a country is not fit 
 for early settlement, and the attempt ought not to be 
 made ; and that when a country is, in the o})inion of our 
 wisest statesmen, thus eligible, imperial and colonial in- 
 terests being so intimately blended as they are, it may in 
 certain cases be to the interest of Eimland to encourai«;e 
 the expenditure of, and in some instances even to pro- 
 vide, the capital required to make the country habitable, 
 or at least accessible, and to control that expenditure, 
 the debt behig a charge against the lands and revenues 
 of the country generally, recollecting that when the 
 time should arrive, proper in the opinion of England, to 
 grant free institutions to the inhabitants (which when 
 granted in advance of population, tend merely to benefit 
 some party or clique), it is unreasonable to suppose 
 that a colony of Englishmen would then object to accept 
 with them their just responsibihties, or desire to repu- 
 diate advances made for tlioir benefit if judiciously and 
 honestly expended. 
 
 Many pubHc works, of the greatest utility, however, 
 carry with them the capability of defrayuig, when ex- 
 ecuted, thek own expenditure, a principle that should 
 be taken advantage of wherever it exists, of which a 
 detailed instance h given in Chap. VII., in speaking of a 
 proposed British emigrant route to the Pacific. 
 
 li 
 
 
 m 
 
 r:r 
 
«9 
 
 POLICY OP UNITED STATES. 
 
 *^ 
 
 ii! 
 
 
 \. 
 
 i 
 
 "li, 
 
 f 
 
 Public opinion on this subject in America, as we 
 may gather from the President's last message, which 
 may generally be regarded as an echo of the popular 
 voice, is widely different from the pohcy above described. 
 In speaking of the financial condition of the country, he 
 says, '•' We ought never to forget that true pubHc eco- 
 nomy consists, not in withholding the means necessary 
 to accomphsh important national objects confided to us 
 by the constitution, but in taking care that the money 
 appropriated for these purposes, shall be faithfrilly and 
 frugally expended." In practice, these maxims arc 
 usually effectuated as follows : — 
 
 In the States, until the population of a 'territory 
 is sufficient to justify its admission into the Union, a 
 government is provided for it by the parent state. 
 The President, with the concurrence of the Senate, 
 appoints all the principal officers, under whose direc- 
 tion the roads at first most required are made, customs 
 and postal arrangements established, the necessary 
 pubHc buildings erected — even lunatic asylums and 
 libraries are not forgotten* — at the sole expense of the 
 Federal Government. A local legislatmre is formed 
 with limited powers to tax, the application of the 
 proceeds being controlled by the officers of the Federal 
 Government, which is kept well informed by a delegate 
 to Congress, who is allowed to speak m the House of 
 Eepresentatives, but not to vote. The Federal Govern- 
 ment usually cedes to the territory some small tracts 
 of wild land to practise upon, under certain restrictions 
 as to sale. When the territory is admitted into the 
 
 * It is said that Iowa for a considerable time after her population 
 was sufficient to secure her admission as a state into the Union, 
 evaded the distinction so as to reap the full benefit of immatm-ity. 
 
 :.i 
 
POLICY OF UNITED STATES. 
 
 88 
 
 Union as a state these grants are increased in all to 
 500,000 acres for internal improvements, but even 
 then the Federui Government continues to retain tlie 
 prhicipal appointments and reimburses itself for the 
 previous outlay by continuing to receive the proceeds 
 of customs, post office, and land sales, in the latter 
 case less ten per cent, per annum of the net proceeds 
 or balance which remains after paying the civil lists, 
 which percentage or balance becomes the property of 
 the state. 
 
 The system appears in many respects inferior to our 
 own, especially as many of the principal officers are 
 liable to be removed by a change of the ministry at 
 Washington, but it has this advantage in a remarkable 
 degree, that by rapidly opening up communications 
 and removing the most formidable impediments to the 
 first settlers, a sudden impetus is given to emigration, 
 the wilderness is quickly converted into a territory, 
 and the territory into a state. 
 
 i i 
 
 
 O 2 
 
84 
 
 ciiAr. VI. 
 
 liOUTES TO THE PACIFIC. — BY LONG SKA UY IIOYAL MAIL LINE, OK 
 
 Vitt NEW YOIJK, ACItOSS THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA, TO SAN FUAN- 
 
 CISCO, AND THENCE TO THE BRITISH COLONIES. THE FOUR OVEK- 
 
 LAND AMERICAN ROUTES. — POSTAL. 
 
 si' ,'« 
 
 There arc at present seven routes open to tlie traveller, 
 by any one of which he can reach the colonies on the 
 Pacific. Of these, ti.ree are by water or chiefly so, and 
 the others across the continent. In the order mentioned, 
 I shall shortly describe each of these routes. 
 
 The only direct way to reach Vancouver Island and 
 British Columbia at present, is to take advantage of any 
 vessel saihng from London or Liverpool that may offer. 
 Exceeding 17,000 miles, this passage is the longest that 
 can be taken from England to any known port rounding 
 either cape, unless it be to some place in the neighbour- 
 hood of Sitka, or Petrapaulouski ; Httle short of five 
 months *, it occupies a considerable fraction of a man's 
 hfe time : let us cherish the idea that it will be super- 
 seded, before the surface gold of British Columbia 
 begins to be exhausted, or the country converted into 
 a succession of distorted ridges and unsightly mounds, 
 by a North Pacific Biltish Emigrant and Postal route, 
 
 * Sir E. B. Lytton to Gov. Douglas, Sept. 2, 1858: "I may 
 further observe, that a ship has been chartered, and is in course of 
 preparation for the conveyance of the larger portion of this detach- 
 ment by the Horn ; but aa the passage will consume nearly four 
 months, and it is desirable that you should have the " &c. (This 
 should have read five months.) 
 
noUTRS : 
 
 DY LONG SKA. 
 
 S^ 
 
 wliicli, as is elsewhere sliown, could be opened at an 
 expenditure of about 250,000/. and by which the 
 colonies could be reached at least a week sooner than 
 now by Panama, the quickest route, and at a fraction of 
 the expense of the latter. 
 
 All long sea voyages are monotonous, and in this case 
 remarkably so, as land is seldom seen or visited from pt)rt 
 to port ; the only variety, and that not an agreeable one, 
 being met with in coming round the Horn.* For any 
 one who can go oloft and work his passage throng] i, such 
 a voyage seems sensible enough ; but, for an unoccupied 
 passenger to vegetate for five months at sea is a matter 
 uf much greater difRculty. 
 
 In short, if the reader will take up any published 
 account of a very long sea voyage and read it two or 
 three times over, he will have read what I must hnvc 
 written, had I described in detail the only British route 
 existing to Her Majesty's colonies in the North Pacific. 
 This voyage is very nearly as expensive as that by 
 I'anama, without taking into account the value of the 
 passenger's time. 
 
 In addition to this, supposing an emigrant bound t(i 
 British Columbia to have arrived by sea at Esquiinalt 
 Harbour, he is obliged to retrace his steps eastward a 
 considerable way in order to reach liis destination. 
 This countermarch, as it were, will cost liim as much 
 as it would have cost him, in the first instance, to have 
 crossed the Atlantic. 
 
 The difficulties and even dangers which the traveller 
 had to encounter in crossing the isthmus, previous to 
 the partial opening of the railway in 1852, or its com- 
 pletion at a cost exceeding a million sterling, in 1855, 
 are still fresh in the recollection of many. 
 
 i 
 
 * See .Vppendix, page 151. 
 u 3 
 
f 
 
 u 
 
 l- 
 
 4i 
 
 1 1, ,1 
 
 W If, ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 k 
 
 
 Bi V: ' 
 
 If} f' 
 
 it 
 
 L 
 
 f''l 
 
 ■1 
 
 86 
 
 BY NEW YORK AND PANAMA. 
 
 Who that crossed it then can forget the heat and 
 filth of Chagres, the packs of curs and flocks of buzzards, 
 tlie struggle in bungos and Avith boatmen up the river, 
 the scenes of riot and debauchery at the villages, jungle 
 fever, and the bones that marked the mule tracks 
 through the plains of Panama, and stamped that short 
 but fatal route of fifty miles, as the Golgotha of the 
 West? 
 
 All this is changed now : after an interesting voyage 
 of seven or eight days from New York, in a first-class 
 steamer, supplied with every comfort and luxury that 
 can be desired, Aspinwall is reached. During the 
 voyage, the traveller will have seen the low coral islands 
 of the Bahamas, and coasted along the shores of Cuba, 
 in colour and elevation contrasting happily with the hills 
 of San Domingo and the blue mountains of Jamaica. 
 
 Luckily there is no detention at the town of Aspin- 
 Avall, where all the inconveniences of Chagies are met 
 with in a milder and mitigated form. Once in the cars 
 — the railway passes through a deep marsh which it 
 quits at Gatun on the Chagres : thence traversing a 
 dense tropical forest, with occasional clearances and ha- 
 ciendas, and arriving at Barbacoas, it crosses the river, 
 and the summit from which Balboa discovered the 
 Pacific is seen. As the traveller advances, he obtains 
 views of the river, reflecting from its bright surface the 
 deep rich greens of the tropical jungle or forest, or the 
 blossoming parasites which hang in festoons above the 
 banks. Having passed the summit level, the scene 
 changes, and at a distance the level savannahs and the 
 spires of Panama are descried. 
 
 In the meantime the telegraph has done its work, 
 and the Pacific steamer is in readiness to convey the 
 passengers to San Francisco. So that the whole time 
 
BY W. INDIA OR ROYAL MAIL STEAMER. 
 
 87 
 
 occupied in the transit of the isthmus, does not exceed 
 five hours. 
 
 By these very expeditious arrangements, the passen- 
 ger loses the chance of seeing many a magnificent pile 
 of Moorish architecture, half overgrown with tropical 
 vegetation; the remains of old Panama, its broken 
 down bridges, and the bay in front, the resort of 
 innumerable sea-fowl, from the sand-piper and sea-gull 
 to the red flamingo and stately pehcan. But in missing 
 these, and many other objects of the greatest beauty 
 and deepest interest, the dangers of taking Panama 
 fever, to which Europeans on a first visit are particularly 
 liable, is greatly diminished; as well as the risk of being 
 riddled with jiggers and galipatos, or on waking some 
 morning to find one's hair converted into a flourishing 
 nest of ants. 
 
 Aspinwall can be reached in about the same time, six- 
 teen to twenty days, by the Eoyal Mail fine of steamers^ 
 vid St. Thomas from Southampton, as it can, vid New 
 York from Liverpool. But as the connection between 
 the Eoyal Mail Line and American conveyances is very 
 imperfect, I recommend travellers, unless very patriotic, 
 to avoid it. Having been myself a victim, and in con- 
 sequence of doing so, detained fifteen days on the 
 isthmus, I speak from experience. Besides which, the 
 British Hne is dearer for passengers, and twice as dear 
 for letters. 
 
 Panama to San Francisco occupies about fourteen 
 days. Being a coasting voyage, in a steamer resem- 
 bling a floating hotel, in the still waters of the Pacific, 
 if not overcrowded, the passage is a very agreeable 
 one. Having passed the beautiful islands of Tobago 
 and Taboquilla, the Pearl Islands loom in the distance^ 
 The views of the mountains of Mexico and the isthmus 
 
 
 i 
 
 i I 
 
 I H 
 
 i 
 
 o4 
 
88 
 
 TEIIUANTEPEC AND XICARAGUA. 
 
 
 Ui 
 
 T ;i 
 
 
 II; 
 
 f 
 
 ■iVIii 
 
 i i 
 
 are constantly changing. Half-way is Acapulco, where 
 the steamers stop to coal. The city, beautifully situated 
 among groves of cocoa and palm, at the base of moun- 
 tains which rise from the edge of the harbour, one of 
 the most perfect in the world, is still a relic of the 
 former times of Spain. The colouring is exquisite : the 
 Mexicans in the market-place, selling fruits, shells, and 
 I)earls, which seem to be the staple commodities ; the 
 old Spanish churches and wells ; divers sv-iin .ning round 
 the steamers ; and coaling by torch-hght, are studies of 
 peculiar interest. 
 
 The traveller will do well to avoid the Tehuantepec 
 route vid New Orleanc, semi-monthly, as in its pre- 
 sent condition the road is comparatively useless alike 
 for purposes of travel and postal communication. The 
 land portion of the transit across the isthmus — being 
 upwards of a hundred miles in length — consists of 
 an unpaved and imperfectly graded road, passing over 
 a precipitous mountain, and barely practicable for 
 wheeled vehicles ; and, in consequence, a mail made up 
 of a few hght sacks is all thp^t the contractors have 
 carried, and all, it is presumed, that they have been 
 able to carry since the commencement of the service.* 
 
 But as the Nicaragua route, hkewise from New York 
 to San Francisco, is about to be reopened, and as I passed 
 over it twice, I sliall here shortly describe it, although 
 not counted among the seven routes mentioned at the 
 commencement of this chapter. 
 
 Compared witli the Panama route, there is a saving 
 by it of 700 miles. The whole distance from San 
 Juan del Nor, on the Atlantic, to San Juan del Sud, on 
 the Pacific, is 212 miles. 
 
 n 
 
 * Vide also Panama Star and Htrald, Jan. 17, 18G0. 
 
THE SAN JUAN RIVER. 
 
 8a 
 
 Ascending, in a small but comfortable steamer the 
 river St. Juan, in nineteen hours the traveller reaches 
 the Castillo rapids, and changes steamers ; five hours 
 more take him to Port Carlos, where the river joins 
 Lake Nicaragua ; there, changing steamers again, twelve 
 hours take him across the lake to Virgin Bay, con- 
 nected with the Pacific by a very agreeable mule ride 
 of three or four hours, the last figures depending to a 
 great extent upon the natural disposition of the animal 
 the traveller may happen to select. 
 
 In Central America generally, extending into Mexico, 
 the rainy season commences about the 1st of May, and 
 continues almost without intermission from 5, or 5| 
 months in the former, to 4 months in the latter ; at 
 any other time, to any one unaccustomed to tropical 
 scenery, nothing can be more enjoyable than a tour 
 through this country. The banks of the San Juan are 
 clotiud with evergreen forest, the dense foliage of 
 whic]\ thickly interwoven with blossoming vines, 
 blossoming parasites, and blossoming cactuses, hangs 
 over the water and hides the banks. The infinite 
 variety of this forest is indescribable ; mahogany and 
 logwood, looking like ash and acacia ; mangroves, each 
 supported by innumerable steins ; extending branches, 
 bound to the earth by what look like ropes and perfectly 
 twisted cables ; bamboos like feathers, and palms hke 
 plumes ; cocoa-nuts and palmettos, bananas and plan- 
 tains, with their gigantic leaves and danghng fruits, 
 bewilder the beholder. Nor is the scene wanting in 
 animation, enhvened as it is by flights of macaws, 
 parrots, buzzards, &c. ; in the trees, monkeys, nearly all 
 ring-tailed ; egrets and cranes pacing the sand-bars, and 
 huge alligators basking in the mud. Where the banks 
 are clear, occasional haciendas are passed ; the houses 
 
 iji^ 
 
90 
 
 OVERLAND AMERICAN ROUTES. 
 
 
 two-thirds roof, built of bamboo and thatched with 
 palm, are more like hermitages or moss-houses than 
 anything else, and the dusky inmates invariably rush 
 out to hail the steamers passing. The lake is beautiful ; 
 the conical islands of Omatepec, some 4000 or 5000 feet 
 high, with distant mountains rising majestically in the 
 back-ground, and the crumbUng fortresses built to 
 repel t^ j Buccaneers, buried in vegetation as they are, 
 form the most beautiful pictures conceivable.* 
 
 The passage from San Francisco to Vancouver Island 
 in an American steamer occupies four or five days. It 
 thus appears, allowing for shght detentions at New- 
 York and San Francisco, London to Vancouver Island, 
 vid tlie isthmus, is made in about forty-five days, and 
 that the enormous expenses, 80/. to 100/., and the fact 
 of their being so very circuitous, are the main objec- 
 tions to the routes vid Panama, Nicaragua, or Tehuan- 
 tepec, as thoroughfares to the British Colonies. 
 
 In shortly describing the four overland routes in 
 American territory by which travellers can reach San 
 Francisco, it should be premised, that although it is 
 customary to admit that the unremitting efforts of 
 America to spread her republic in the "West have been 
 very successful, the gigantic character of the works 
 undertaken with this view, and to connect the Eastern 
 States with the Pacific, and the enterprise and liberality 
 with which they are, in the teeth of obstacles almost 
 insurmountable, carried out, are by no means so gene- 
 rally understood. 
 
 Of this truth a very remarkable illustration occurs in 
 (No. 1), the great ov^erland route from St. Louis and 
 
 * An interesting account of the town of San Juan will be found 
 in Harper, Dec. 1854. 
 
ST. LOUIS TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 91 
 
 Memphis, vid El Paso, to San Francisco, which is now 
 more used than any of the other continental routes. 
 The mail service by it is semi-weekly during the tra- 
 velling season ; it is subsidised by the United States 
 Government at (^600,000 per annum, and is the longest 
 mail-coach road in existence, being, from St. Louis to 
 San Francisco, 2765 miles. It is travelled night and 
 day by four-horsed coaches, and with perfect regularity ; 
 the distance is accompHshed in twenty-two days. The 
 cost to a passenger is about 20/., and 5/. or so in addi- 
 tion, incurred for meals, which are obtained at regulated 
 charges and fixed stopping-places along tlie road. 
 Each passenger is allowed 50 lbs. of baggage, and can, 
 at any place he pleases, await the next coach, of which 
 he is three days in advance. For the first few days 
 the process is found excessively fatiguing, but after a 
 little practice the traveller sleeps regularly and soundly 
 in the carriage, and finds enjoyment in tlie constant 
 change and varied scenes experienced. This route is 
 admirably provided with horses, mules, and coaches. 
 Mihtary stations have been estabhshed at regular inter- 
 vals along the entire route ; each station has a guard of 
 twenty-five men, well armed; this force is thought ample, 
 considering the manner in which the buildings themselves, 
 on a principle similar to that of the martello towers in 
 Ireland, are constructed to resist effectually any num- 
 ber of hostile Indians, at one time likely to collect in a 
 single body. Each train of emigrants, who seldom use 
 the coaches, but drive their own teams and carry their 
 own Penates, is guarded through the wilderness by 
 twenty-five men, who take this duty in rotation, and 
 are thus kept fully occupied. In this way the emi- 
 grant is provided with information as to halting 
 places, water and provender for his cattle, fuel, &c., as 
 he advances. 
 
 i 
 
 II 
 
 5 M 
 
 
92 
 
 SAN ANTOXIO TO SAN DIEGO. 
 
 '^:: 
 
 The vehicles used upon the road from Fort Smith, 
 westward, are of the description known as "celerity 
 coaches." Built Uke a common coach, the body is hung 
 on springs in the usual way ; instead, however, of the 
 heavy wooden top, with iron railings round, in com- 
 mon use, they are roofed with canvass, lightly sup- 
 ported, as in the case of a common waggon. This 
 covering affords ample protection against the weather, 
 while it greatly diminishes the weight of the vehicle, 
 and its liability to upset. The rolling stock on iliis 
 hue consists of 100 such coaches. The route in some 
 places passes through long stretches of the Great Ameri- 
 can Desert, quite destitute of water ; in one case there 
 is seventy-five miles of barren sand. In these localities 
 the stations are supphed by regular water-trains, fitted 
 up expressly for the purpose. The waggons used carry 
 large tanks, which resemble the boilers of a steam-boat, 
 and, for sake of liglitness, are made of block tin ; each 
 waggon is drawn by four mules. These teams convey 
 water regularly to the different stations, where reser- 
 voirs are built to receive and preserve it for the use of 
 passengers, and the employees and stock of the com- 
 pany contracting. This is, of course, a very expensive 
 way to get water, but as every effort to procure it 
 otherwise has failed, there is no alternative. Work- 
 shops and smithies are, of course, estabhshed at inter- 
 vals alonoj the road. 
 
 Of the next route (No. 2), from San Antonio, via 
 El Paso, to San Diego, semi-monthly, (weekly from San 
 Antonio to El Paso and Fort Yuma), it will be suffi- 
 cient to mention shortly, that the San Diego and San 
 Antonio route consists of a weekly mail service, 
 receiving a subsidy from the goveriiineut of ,i?200,000 
 per annum ; that the distance between the two places 
 
 
 ■ t'i 
 
SANTA FE AND SALT LAKE ROUTES. 
 
 83 
 
 named is by it 1570 miles, travelled by the stages iu 
 28 days ; the most serious objection to this route is 
 that passengers are detained at one place on the road 
 before being carried through to San Franci«co. 
 
 The third route (No. 3) opened to San Francisco, is 
 the Kansas and Stockton, passing through Santa Fe. 
 The service is monthly, and the subsidy from the United 
 States government is ,$'80,000 per annum ; the entire 
 distance from Kansas city to Stockton is 202G miles ; it 
 is generally regarded as an exceedingly level and rather 
 monotonous road. 
 
 The last route (No. 4) is from San Joseph and Placer- 
 ville, via Salt Lake City. By this route the distance 
 from San Joseph to San Francisco is 1770 miles, and 
 time taken to travel there, 38 days. It is a weekly 
 mail service, for the carrying of which the United States 
 government pays ,$'320,000 per annum. This is the 
 high road to Utah, and is said to be better connected 
 than the other routes with Washington and Oregon, the 
 stretches of sand seldom exceed twenty miles, and it is 
 the highway over which nearly all the earliest emi- 
 grants to California travelled. These routes are coloured 
 pink on the annexed map, mere branch roads being 
 coloured blue. 
 
 To describe minutely each of these routes, the proper 
 time to start, the country traversed, and the equipment 
 required, would far exceed the limits of this pubHcation. 
 To those interested I would recommend the perusal of 
 a small book, the " Prairie Traveller," by Capt. Marcy, 
 pubhshed in New York in 1859, which contains 
 " itineraries " of the principal routes from the Mississipi 
 to the Pacific. 
 
 I have, in. the foregoing, omitted to include among 
 the routes to British Columbia and Vancouver Island, 
 
 • 
 
 ft 
 

 \\' 
 
 IIk 'I 
 
 94 
 
 VEKA CRUZ TO ACAPULCO. 
 
 h «v 
 
 ^v ! 
 
 .: ;l 
 
 the trail vid Red River, Nortli Sascatchewan, and the 
 Punch-bowl Pass in the Rocky Mountains, or other simi- 
 lar trails usually travelled by the brigades of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. To hardy trappers, lightly equipped, 
 and confident in their knowledge of the passes of the 
 country and its resources, as well as from their skill in 
 woodcraft and mastery over the Indians, these routes 
 are perfectly safe, but should not be encountered by 
 strangers or emigrants. The Fort Benton route I omit, 
 as unfinished and described in another place. The 
 various routes through Mexico are rendered unsafe by 
 brigands, who take advantage of internal dissensions 
 and perpetual insurrections to pillage travellers where- 
 ever they meet them ; one-third of the nation are high- 
 way robbers, and, whether Castileon and Chemorrow or 
 Juarez and Miramon contend, under cover of the 
 political darkness which always pervades that beautiful 
 country, practise their avocation with unparalleled 
 audacity and impunity : otherwise, something would 
 have to be said of the stage route from Vera Cruz 
 through the ancient and beautiful city of Mexico to 
 Acapulco, connecting with steamers on either side. 
 
 Meagre as the sketch above given of the principal 
 American overland emigrant routes is, it is sufficient 
 to show that America has already connected her pos- 
 sessions on the Pacific with the Eastern States, by 8131 
 miles of mail-coach road, opened and maintained by the 
 nation at a gross expenditure of ,$'1,196,447 per annum. 
 And when to the postal subsidies paid by the American 
 government to the four overland lines just described, 
 are added ,^738,250 annually paid to the contractors to 
 carry the mails from New York and New Orleans vid 
 Panama to San Francisco semi-monthly, and from New 
 Orleans to San Francisco, vid Tehuantepec, also semi- 
 
UNITED STATES POSTAL EXPENDITURE TO PACIFIC. [)j 
 
 monthly, ^250,000 per annum, on the same account ; 
 and for local mail service, (^508,097 per annum, wliich 
 was the case in 1859, we find that America has been 
 disbursing, on the plea of carrjdng the mails to tlie 
 North Pacific, but in reality, to open up communication 
 to the country and to colonise it *, in round numbers 
 550,000/. annually, and incurring an annual loss on this 
 account of 377,000/. This expenditure is quite inde- 
 pendent of the cost of her military roads, such as the 
 Fort Benton route, described in the next chapter, — that 
 from Fort Smith to the Colorado, &c. ; and as, according 
 to the statements of the Postmaster-General (of this year), 
 tlie population in whose favour this enormous outlay is 
 incurred does not exceed 650,000 f persons, the Ame- 
 rican portion of the coast of the Pacific is peopled at a 
 cost to the Federal Government, amounting to 17^. 
 annually for each settler or emigrant, including all ages 
 and conditions. 
 
 * A comparison of the expenses and products of the routes named, 
 leaves no room for doubt that the postal conimunication wliich they 
 afford is not looked to by the government as an end, but as an in- 
 strument for the advancement of ulterior objects. Indeed, it has not 
 been concealed, but openly avowed by the friends of the policy 
 which maintained these routes, that they were intended as the 
 pioneers of civilisation ; as the means of rapid and regular com- 
 munication between remote military posts and the government, and 
 most especially as an instrumentality for promoting the settlement 
 of our frontiers, and thus appreciating the value of the national 
 domain. — Report of Postmaster-General U. S., Dec. 3, 1859. 
 
 In England also, " The decision on Post-Office contracts is not 
 a mere Post-Office question, Imt frequently involves considerations 
 of an imperial character, affecting our political relations, our colonial 
 empire, the efficiency of our army and navy, and the spread of our 
 commerce." — First Hej). Sel. Com. Packet and Telegraphic Con- 
 frac^s.— May 22, 18G0. 
 
 f I am, however, of opinion that those figures are imderstated. — 
 J. D. P. 
 
 
 J 1 
 
i 
 
 
 M 
 
 I 
 
 !);{ 
 
 BRITISH POSTAL IIXPENDITURE TO PACIFIC. 
 
 Under these circumstancefl, it is not surprising that 
 the Americans should, for a long time back, have carried, 
 without caring for remuneration, from Han Francisco 
 to the British colonics, our little mail bag, the mo- 
 derate dimensions of which arc preserved by a higli 
 charge on letters, a charge on newspajiers equal to 
 their cost, and a practical prohibition of pamphlets, 
 and of books however small. 
 
 li'i'' 
 
 III 
 
 I 
 
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 r 
 
 Ml 
 
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 r. 
 
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 Vf 
 
 CHAR VII. 
 
 pitorosrin nniTisii emigiiant and postal koittr to the tacikic 
 
 FKOM CANADA, SOUTH OK THE LAKES, THUOL'ail KEI) HIVEll AND 
 
 ItltniSII COLUMHIA, TO VANCOUVEIt LSLAND. TUAOE WITH CHINA 
 
 AND JAPAN. POSTAL COMMl^NICATIONS WITH AUSTHALIA. — CON- 
 CLUSIONS AlimVKD AT. 
 
 Centuries* have elapsed since England first entertained 
 the dream of a north-west passage for her vessels 
 trading to India and the China seas, and diu'ing no 
 l)ortion of that period was the search more energetically 
 condncted than within the last thirty years. That dream 
 is now dispelled ; and in passing through those icy 
 portals in 1850-51, M'Clure, more fortunate than his 
 gallant competitors, may be said, as far as mercantile 
 interests are concerned, to have closed the gates behind 
 him. The apathy that usually succeeds expectations 
 disappointed, where every effort has been made to 
 ensure success, did not in this case last long ; for in 1857 
 our legislators and the pubhc seem to have been struck 
 ^vith the fact, that in searching for a north-west passage 
 in the Polar seas, they had overlooked the true north- 
 west passage which exists in British territory, north of 
 49°, and that if a tithe of the exertion and expenditure 
 incurred in . .ivestigating the former route had been 
 appUed to the latter, the original intention would long 
 before this have been realised.*!* 
 
 * U95. 
 
 f The expenditure of Great Britain on Arctic expeditions from 
 1800 to 1845 alone exceeded 1,000,000/. sterling. 
 
 II 
 
 {: 
 

 F. Weller, Uth Red bo" Square l^andcm 
 
l4i 
 
 it 
 
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 98 
 
 A RAILWAY IMPRACTICAULE AT PRESENT. 
 
 True, however, to the principle thctt inventions in 
 their earUer stages assume the most comphcated forms, 
 every project that has been hitherto brought promin- 
 ently under the notice of the public or of government, 
 having in view the connection of the Atlantic with the 
 Pacific, has been wanting in the essential requisite prac- 
 ticability, and has been set aside, not owing to want of 
 interest in the subject, but to the complexity of arrange- 
 ments involved. Eeports of exploring parties sent out 
 by our own and the Canadian governments, by the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, and the United States, furnish 
 us with evidence in itself sufficient not only to reason but, 
 better still, to act upon ; and, I shall endeavour to show 
 how, by divesting this subject of the incumbrances 
 which have been hitherto supposed properly to belong 
 to it, the attainment of the desired end is quite within 
 our reach, and that the communication to, and connec- 
 tion of, the north-west colonies, of the kind most 
 required, can be effected at an outlay inconsiderable 
 when compared with the great national interests at 
 stake. 
 
 It is hardly necessaiy for me to commence by stating, 
 that, however desirable an interoceanic railway, passing 
 entirely through British territory, might be, it is imprac- 
 ticable at present, and will continue to be so, until the 
 population in the country through which it should pass 
 shall be sufficiently numerous to justify its construction. 
 
 At present the country north of 49°, through wliicli 
 it would have to pass, may be said to be uninhabited, 
 and it would take a season to estimate how many 
 years would elapse, and how many millions be ex- 
 pended, before such a work would be finished. 
 
 Great stress has been laid on the advantage English 
 merchants w^ould derive from it, shortening, as it would. 
 
EMIGRANT ROUTE PROPOSED. 
 
 99 
 
 the route to China and the Asiatic coast by some 3000 
 miles ; but it may reasonably be doubted whether to 
 them the saving of interest on capital would not be 
 more than counterbalanced by the additional cost of 
 transhipping the goods, and of land carriage for 2500 
 or 3000 miles, and whether, after all, our teas and 
 silks might not continue to be transmitted by sea. 
 
 To the emigrant speed is not so much an object as 
 certainty and economy. On the great overland route 
 from St. Louis to California, fewer emigrants travel in 
 the stages than on horseback, driving before them the 
 cattle that are to stock their future farms ; attending 
 waggons carry the wife and children, and pack mules 
 the provisions. They choose the best time of year, 
 and the cavalcade proceeds leisurely along ; double 
 time is occupied in the journey, but the stock and 
 merchandise which they take with them are worth more 
 tlian double, when tliey reach the west coast, what 
 they cost in the States, which amply compensates for 
 the delay. The advantage of a railroad over a good 
 waggon road, would be felt more by tourists than by 
 emigrants; and with regard to postal arrangements, 
 since in either case a line of telegraph would be estab- 
 lished, the superiority of the railroad is, even in this 
 respect, not so very considerable ; and, lastly, for the 
 conveyance of troops in the event of a war, so long a 
 track would be so liable to interruption, that for war 
 purposes a railway could not be depended upon. But 
 since, from its utter impracticabihty at present, it is 
 needless further to discuss the advantages or disad- 
 vantages of a railroad that cannot now be made, I shall 
 proceed at once to describe, in a general way, the 
 nature of the communication required to connect the 
 colonies, liow easily this might be effected, and then to 
 
 
 a 2 
 
♦l) 
 
 'T 
 
 I 
 
 »> 
 
 ! 
 
 £'* 
 
 r 
 
 t. ' 
 
 U I 
 
 I ' I 
 
 ^M 'I 
 
 100 
 
 MIXED CHARACTER OF PROPOSED ROUTE. 
 
 explain in detail tlie grounds on which the opinions 
 brought forward, or assertions made, are based. 
 
 Looking at the map of the Canadas, their railroads 
 extend westward as far as Sydenham on the Ottawa 
 Kiver and (the Grand Trunk) to Detroit, on the southern 
 shore of Lake Huron ; from this point a railway in 
 j!?kmerican territory extends to La Crosse. Whatever 
 line of Communication is adopted, must pass through 
 the Eed Eiver country, somewhere between Pembina 
 and Lake Winnepeg. Assume, therefore, that Assina- 
 boia is a point in this line of communication. As soon 
 as it is a fact that the Red Eiver and the Pacific are to 
 be connected, the people of Wisconsin and Minnesota 
 will lose no time in extending their communications to 
 the junction of the Siouxwood Eiver with the Eed 
 Eiver, which, as the river is there five feet deep, we 
 shall call the head of steam navigation. Put a few short 
 river steamers, of the class that can be built from 
 1000/. to 5000/., on the Eed Eiver to connect these 
 communications (180 miles) with Assinaboia. Open a 
 waggon road, for which tlie country is particularly 
 favourable, from Assinaboia, via Assinaboine Eiver and 
 Quapelle Eiver and Lakes, to Elbow on south branch 
 of the Sascatchewan Eiver in lat. 51° long. 107^° (430 
 miles). 
 
 Put a few steamers of the class before mentioned on 
 the South Sascatchewan, to complete tlie communica- 
 tion (300 miles), to the base of the Eocky Mountain- ; 
 here taking advantage of tlie Vermihon Pass, open a 
 waggon road in the best route obtainable (400 miles) 
 to Hopetown, which may be considered the head of 
 navigation on the Fraser for steamers of at all consider- 
 able size. 
 
 Such is the skeleton plan or bare outline of the 
 
DISTANCES AND TIMES. 
 
 101 
 
 proposal made, the distances and times being given in 
 
 the following table : — 
 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Time. 
 diiyB. hrs. 
 
 Portland to Chicago, Canada Grand Trunk . . 
 
 1008 
 
 2 
 
 Chicago* to St. Paul's (if by railway) 
 
 350 
 
 1 6 
 
 St. Paul's to Pembina (if by railway) 
 
 450 
 
 15 
 
 Pembina to Elbow, waggon road 
 
 500 
 
 10 
 
 On South Sascatchewan, by steamer 
 
 300 
 
 1 12 
 
 From pass of Rocky Mountains across stream to 
 
 
 
 Hopetown by waggon road 
 
 400 
 
 8 
 
 Hopetown to Victoria by steamer 
 
 Portland to Victoria .... 
 
 170 
 
 1 
 
 3178 
 
 24 9 
 
 In short, the advantages of this route might be 
 smnmed up as follows: — that by opening it in the 
 clieap way suggested, while you connect together all 
 the colonies of British North America, an emigrant 
 from England could reach Victoria in one week shorter 
 time than he can now do by Panama, the quickest and 
 most expensive route. 
 
 I am confident that the roads on this route can bo 
 opened for traffic with 100,000/., and 100,000/. more 
 ought to be am})le to construct half-a-dozen river 
 steamers (at 5000/. each) to build workshops, stables, 
 and defences, sufficient to commence with, as well as 
 to pay for superintendance of works in process of con- 
 struction ; the total estimate being 200,000/., the ex- 
 penditure of which would be spread over an interval of 
 three years. 
 
 Tor, as I shall show, the link between Chicago and 
 
 • At present two trains daily from Chicago to La Crosse (tliirteen 
 hours) connect with two lines of steamers on the Mississippi to St. 
 Panl's, in summer ; and in winter stage coaches on the roads replace 
 the steamers. 
 
 u 3 
 
102 
 
 ESTIMATE. 
 
 r.M 
 
 ,i 
 111 * 
 
 r 
 
 (. ' 
 
 '» 
 
 1 
 
 4 1^ 
 
 m 
 
 
 Ked Eiver would not cost any thing to tlie promoters ; 
 a waggon road from Pembina or Assinaboine to tlie 
 Elbow is already travelled by wheeled carriages, and 
 50/. per mile would make the road a tolerably good one. 
 The road connecting the Sascatchewan with Fort Hope 
 would cost 200/. per mile ; Hopetown is already con- 
 nected by steamers with Victoria. 
 
 Before entering further into detail, the reader may per- 
 haps be disposed to admit, that the line is a very promis- 
 ing one, and the sum comparatively small ; but to ask. 
 Where is the 200,000/. to be obtained ? The answer is as 
 follows; — Government would only have to encourage and 
 suggest, and contractors would be found ready to com- 
 pete to of-en this road and maintain it on some such 
 terms* as the following: — The contractor or private 
 company to find the capital required, and establish the 
 hne. To run bi-weekly conveyances both ways, while 
 the season should be open ; passengers' fares and freight 
 being Hable to revision, bound lo carry horses, cattle, 
 &c., in the steam boats across the Sascatchewan 
 plains, as want of fuel, &c., would make this part of 
 the route difficult to emigrants. The contractor to 
 have a right to levy small tolls, also liable to revision, 
 on travellers using the road but not the vehicles. The 
 Government on their part to guarantee 6 per cent, on the 
 capital, which at the worst could not exceed 12,000/. 
 per annum, diminished by whatever postal assets the hne 
 should realise, — to pay the contractor something for 
 carrying the mails, which would diminish the risk of 
 loss to him ; and, with regard to the termination of the 
 contract, the Government would of course reserve the 
 right, notice having been given, to pay off the contractor 
 at any time, at a valuation of his works and stock. K 
 the hne paid more than 12 per cent., the siu-plus might 
 
 
COMPETITION. 
 
 103 
 
 form a sinking fund. The effect would be, that the 
 lands all along the line of road to be opened, 1200 
 miles, would be so enhanced in value, that the proceed- 
 ing might be made a source of revenue, instead of a 
 loss to the country. 
 
 There can be no grounds to apprehend that tjae 
 receipts of this road would be liable to be diminished 
 by a competing line south of 49°. On the contrary, 
 I shall have occasion to show that it is more reasonable 
 to suppose that the British line would draw off a con- 
 siderable proportion of the traffic of the valley of the 
 Columbia River. 
 
 To enter more into detail, let us examine first the 
 principal obstacle, to the route, — the Eocky Mountain 
 Chain. 
 
 For the last ten years the talent of Westpoint has 
 been concentrated upon this subject, endeavouring to 
 solve in a practical manner, within American territory, 
 the problem we are now considering ; and we cannot 
 examine the reports of their numerous explorations, 
 without admitting that, although baffled by the natural 
 barriers, which exist for a distance of 1200 miles south 
 of 49°, their military engineers have done their duty 
 admirably. 
 
 In endeavouring to connect the Mississippi with the 
 Pacific, they have thoroughly explored eight different 
 routes, and for 1000 miles south of 49°, no single pass 
 in the Rocky Mountains has been detected less than 
 6000 feet high, and which does not present difficulties 
 far greater than are met with in the passes north of 
 49°, — a result very clearly expressed in the following 
 table : — 
 
 H 4 
 
I! 
 
 4' 
 
 104 PASSES IN' ROCKY MOUNTAINS SOUTH OP 49°. 
 
 i )■: 
 
 I:.-'] 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 .a 
 
 j: 
 
 
 
 
 
 ti 
 
 a 
 
 60 
 
 3 
 
 ? 
 
 oa 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 1 
 
 O 
 
 5 
 
 Il 
 
 
 
 Description of Route 
 
 3 
 1, 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 IB 
 
 2^ 
 
 9i «a 
 
 Ml y 
 
 .S 3 
 
 WO 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 examined. 
 
 .s 
 
 
 g 
 
 8| 
 
 = 
 
 15 
 
 .si 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 J 
 
 < 
 
 1-^ 
 
 iil 
 
 o o 
 
 4.* 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 B 
 
 J, 
 
 O 
 
 s 
 g 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 9 
 
 Milw. 
 
 o 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 Feet. 
 
 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' Cadotte's Pass. 
 
 Route near 47 th "| 
 and 49th parallel. [ 
 St. Paul to Seattle. J 
 
 1410 
 
 2025 
 
 19,100 
 
 535 
 
 1490 
 
 6044 
 
 (If al•ailway)Tun• 
 nelpropo8edatele- 
 .vatiou of 5219 ft. 
 Cadotte's Pass. 
 
 St. Paul to Van- 1 
 couver. j 
 
 1455 
 
 1864 
 
 18,100 
 
 374 
 
 1490 
 
 6044 
 
 (If a railway)Tun- 
 
 nel proposed at ele- 
 
 _yationof 5219 ft. 
 
 Route near 41° and" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 42- Via South 
 Pass from Council 
 
 1410 
 
 2032 
 
 29,120 
 
 632 
 
 1400 
 
 8373 
 
 
 Bluff to Benicia. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Route near 38° and " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 39°. Westport to 
 San Francisco by 
 theCoo-che-to-pah 
 
 1740 
 
 2080 
 
 49,986 
 
 620 
 
 1660 
 
 10032 
 
 f Tunnel proposed 
 < at elevation ol 
 L 9 540 ft.! 
 
 and Tala-ee-chay- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 pah Passes. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Route near 38° and " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 39°. Westport to 
 San Francisco by 
 the Coo-che-to- 
 pah and Madelin 
 
 1740 
 
 2290 
 
 56,514 
 
 670 
 
 1620 
 
 10032 
 
 f Tunnel proposed 
 < at elevation ol 
 1.9540 ft. 1 
 
 Passes. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 35°. Fort Smith 1 
 to San Pedro. J 
 
 1360 
 
 1892 
 
 48,812 
 
 416 
 
 1476 
 
 7472 
 
 
 35°. Fort Smith '^ 
 to San Francisco, . ' 
 
 1360 
 
 2174 
 
 50,670 
 
 644 
 
 1530 
 
 
 
 32°. Fulton to San ' 
 Pedro. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1400 
 
 1618 
 
 32,784 
 
 408 
 
 1210 
 
 5717 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 'Average estimate 
 
 32°. Fulton to San 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 of foregoing 
 
 Francisco. 
 
 1620 
 
 2039 
 
 42,008 
 
 759 
 
 1280 
 
 5717 
 
 . routes exceeding 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 20,000,000/. sterl- 
 . ing (if for railway.) 
 
 To determine the places in the Eocky Mountains 
 where the first and second of the routes mentioned in 
 the table should cross, seven passes were examined: 
 1st. Maria's Pass, tunnel at 8000 or 8500 ft. (hmit of 
 
KANANASKIS AND VERMILION PASSES. 
 
 105 
 
 perpetual snow in that latitude) ; 2nd. Lewis and 
 Clarlc's, 6323 elevation, 2;^ miles of tunnel througli rock 
 proposed, so as to obtain a[)proaclies 40 ft. — 00 ft. per 
 mile (1 in 132) ; Cadotte's Pass, tunnel 4^ miles long, to 
 obtain approaches 40 ft. — GO ft. per mile. The remain- 
 ing passes are even worse than these. 
 
 North of 40° the de[)ressions in the llocky jMountains 
 are much greater. Of the Kananaskis pass, Captain 
 Palliser says that with but little expense it could be 
 rendered available for carts. lie describes it as a gorge 
 winding through the mountains, among cliils of a 
 tremendous height, and adds that his onward progress 
 was not impeded by obstacles of any consequence, the 
 only difficulty he experienced being occasioned by 
 quantities of fallen timber, caused by fires. The extreme 
 height of this pass is 5985 ft. In descending on the 
 western slope, he writes, " This portion of our route 
 continued for several days through dense masses of 
 fallen timber destroyed by fire, where our progress was 
 very slow, not owing to any difficulty of the moimtains, 
 but on account of the fallen timber, which we had to 
 climb over and then to chop through, to enable the 
 horses to step or jump over it." Here he learned from 
 the Kootanies, that there was a very plain and easy 
 road to Fort Colville, distant eight days from their 
 camp. 
 
 Without dwelhng longer on the advantages of 
 this pass, I turn to that described by Dr. Hector, a httle 
 to the north of the former, called VermiHon Pass, of 
 which the extreme elevation is 4944 ft. " Dr. Hector 
 followed the S. Gascatchewan Eiver right up to the main 
 watershed of the continent , then followed it until he 
 reached a transverse watershed, which divides the 
 waters of the Columbia and N. Sascatchewan Kiver, on 
 the one hand, from those of the Kootanie and S. Sascat- 
 
lOG 
 
 FORT BENTON ROUTE. 
 
 I' '■■ 
 
 c^hewan Rivers on tlie otlier. There he found the facihties 
 for crossing the mountains so great as to leave httlc 
 doubt in liis mind of the practicabihty of constructing 
 even a raih'oad connecting tlie plains of the Sascatchewan 
 witli the opposite side of the main chain of the llocky 
 Mountains." Dr. Hector, writing of this pass, says, "Tlie 
 ascent to the watershed from the Sascatchewan is hardly 
 perceptible to the traveller, and no labour would be 
 required, except that of hewing timber to construct 
 an easy road for carts, by which it might be attained." 
 And again, "A road for carts down the valley of 
 VermiHon Eiver from the height of land to the 
 Kootanie Eiver, could be cleared without difficulty; for 
 su])posing the road to follow a straight line along the 
 river, and the descent to be uniform, which it almost is, 
 the incline would only be forty feet in a mile." To gain 
 a similar grade in American territory would require 
 several miles of tunnel through rock as before shown. 
 
 All idea of constructing a railway within the limits 
 of the barrier described having been abandoned, 
 America is now endeavouring to open the second route 
 in the table, on a principle similar to that I am now 
 advocating within British territory ; a special appro- 
 priation having been made by Congress to connect 
 Fort Walla by a military road with Fort Benton on 
 the Missouri. The work has been commenced, and 
 260 miles of the road completed. Steam-boats can 
 navigate Oregon Eiver to Fort Walla Walla, and the 
 Missouri to Fort Benton, thus affording, except for 
 the interval of 600 miles, a line of steam-boat communi- 
 cation between the Atlantic and Pacific, across the 
 widest part of the States*, being 250 miles south of the 
 
 * This is ufler all a rutlier roundabout arrangement. Railways 
 
ROUTE TO SEATTLE. 
 
 107 
 
 
 line proposed, and passing t}iroii{^li the great American 
 desert; an additional diifieulty, so well understood, 
 that Congress made a special appropriation for the 
 l)ui*pose of sinking artesian wells tliere; which was 
 done, but without success, in reporting u])on which the 
 Secretary of war writes, Dec. 1. 1859: "It may 
 be considered now as demonstrated, that to biinijc 
 water from subterraneous streams to overflow the 
 surfaces of the great western plains is, for any reason- 
 able amount of expenditure, impracticable." In short, 
 taking into consideration the mountain pass, the 
 hopelessly barren nature of the country traversed, and 
 the circumstance of its having for its outlet the bar of 
 the Columbia instead of the Straits of De Fuca, this 
 route cannot compete with that proposed to be made 
 in British territoiy. 
 
 It cannot be urged that the extension of the American 
 line to Seattle, a port on the east side of Puget Sound, 
 as talked of, would make the comparison more favour- 
 able to the American line ; by it the distance of St. 
 Paul's from Seattle, is 2025 miles, of which, 1152 miles 
 would i^ass through an uncultivated region, " affording 
 but Httle game at uncertain seasons, and at a late season 
 not a sufficiency of grass for animals.* 
 
 Governor Stevens f of Minnesota, " believes that the 
 most desirable route to the Pacific will be found in the 
 possession of Great Britain, and that a great interoceanic 
 communication is more likely to be constructed through 
 the Sascatchewan basi-j. than across the American 
 
 westward to the Missouri end at Council Bluffs. The distance by 
 train from St. Paul's to Fort Union, is 700 inilcs. Vide Itinerary of 
 Capt. Marcy, W. S., pul)lished in 1851), in "Prairie Traveller." 
 
 * Mr. Martin M*=Leod, an American authority. 
 
 ■j" Report Select Connnittee to House of Kcpresentatives, Leg. 
 Minnesota, 1858. 
 
lOS 
 
 THK (IRANI) TRUNK RAILWAY. 
 
 desert — the cretaceous and coTni)aratively rainless 
 areas of the soiitliern latitudes within the territories of 
 the United States." 
 
 As there is nothing to apprehend from compctiti(m, 
 let us examine a little further into the detail of the 
 line ])roposed, and the soil and climate of the country 
 through which it passes. 
 
 The construction of a road from Canada round the 
 north shore of Lake Superi(>r, is not proposed, on ac- 
 count of the engineering difficulties, severity of the cli- 
 mate compared with that to the south of the lake, and 
 because the country through which it would have to 
 pass is utterly useless for settlement. On these points 
 Dr. llae's evidence in 1857 was conclusive. But ado])t- 
 ing the more southern route will not prevent the busi- 
 ness of lied Eivcr and Sascatchewan, as well as that of 
 ]\[innesota and Wisconsin passing through Canada. On 
 this point nothing can be more conclusive than the 
 Eeport of the United States Postmaster General to his 
 own Government, dated December 3, 1859. When 
 writing of the Canadian line of steamers, between Port- 
 land and Liverpool, he says, " This line is hereafter to 
 run weekly, Portland being the terminus on this side 
 during the winter, and Quebec during the summer 
 season ; and in connection with the Grand Trunk Eail- 
 way over the Victoria Bridge at Montreal, now com- 
 pleted, it icill afford the means of the most direct and 
 probably the most expeditious communication between 
 Chicago and Liverpool. Arrangements have been made 
 with the Canadian Post-ofRce department to transport, 
 for the sea-postage, any mails it may be desirable to 
 send by this line ; and, in order to give them as much 
 expedition as possible, it is intended to have Chicago 
 and Detroit, as well as Portland, constituted Offices of 
 
IIOUTE SOUTH OF TIIK I.AKKS. 
 
 100 
 
 Kxclinngo, for United States and ]>ritish mails. Biv^h 
 will then he made up at each of these offices, and will 
 not be opened until they reach Liver[)o<)l. The ruii- 
 nin<^ time from Chica^'o to Portland, /•/<? Detroit, To- 
 ronto, iKrc, is not expected ' exceed forty-ei^ht hours, 
 and either from Portland or from the contemplated 
 
 termnuiR 
 
 )f tl 
 
 le rai 
 
 Ivvay 
 
 near 
 
 th( 
 
 ith of the Pi 
 
 moutn ui me iii 
 St. Lawrence, where the mails are to ^ e transferred to 
 and from the steamship, the distance to Liverpool is 
 several hundred miles less than from New York." Be- 
 sides, there is nothing to prevent Canada from extend- 
 ing, in connection with her steamers on Lake Superior, 
 road or railway communication westward to Pembina ; 
 which with her usual energy, would, if pi-acticable, bo 
 likely to follow as a sequence to the plan proposed, 
 which (proposal) if encumbered with this additional 
 consideration must necessarily be greatly delayed in its 
 execution. It is further to be recollected that all the 
 works proposed to be executed are confined to British 
 territory. The objection that a small portion of the 
 route proposed must at first pass through American 
 territory cannot stand, for this is reciprocally the case 
 in a dozen other instances. The traffic between Mon- 
 treal and Liverpool is virtually through the State of 
 Maine, &c., but, the telUng argument is this : the entire 
 traffic of England with her colonies in N. W. America is 
 now carried by a circuitous route on American roads or 
 railroads, or (the Atlantic excepted) in American steam- 
 boats ; and will it not, under those circumstances, be 
 desirable to adopt a plan by which for the [)resent but 
 a fractional part of tliat traffic will be excluded from 
 British territory ? 
 
 Eailways now connect Chicago with La Crosse, 
 steamers and coaches ply from La Crosse to St. Paul's ; 
 
 M 
 
 
110 MINNESOTA AND PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY. 
 
 iii\ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 •1 . 
 
 
 3 
 
 ^ 1 
 
 * 
 
 i' 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 '} 
 
 
 * 
 
 i 
 • } 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 SO that 450 miles which separate St. Paul's from Pem- 
 bina are the next consideration. North of Crow Wing 
 to Pokegamma Falls, for 250 miles, the Mississippi is 
 navigable for steamers drawing three feet of water, and 
 the North Star steamer is said now to ply between the 
 points. Also, as before mentioned, Eed River is navig- 
 able to its junction with Siouxwood River. So that the 
 head of navigation on the Mississippi is separated 
 from the corresponding point on the Red River, by an 
 mterval of less than one hmidred miles of country, par- 
 ticularly favourable for the construction of a road or 
 railway. But if the British road were once commenced, 
 it is more than probable that a railway from La Crosse 
 to Pembina would keep pace with it, my authority for 
 the latter statement being as follows. By an Act of Con- 
 gress (March 3, 1857), a grant of land was made to 
 Minnesota, to aid in construction of a railroad, from Still- 
 water tnd St. Paul's, to Red River. In May following, 
 the Minnesota and Pacific Railway Company was in- 
 corporated^ and the above-mentioned lands provisionally 
 transferred to them, one of the conditions being the con- 
 struction of the railroad under consideration. This 
 company, it appears, has actually contracted for the 
 construction of eighty miles of the road, of which fifty 
 miles was to be completed by the 25th of May (I860). 
 The population through which this fifty miles passes, was 
 estimated at 67,000 two years ago, and if its progression 
 has been ns rapid as before, that 07,000 has now be- 
 come 200,000. St. Paul's had then a population of 
 16,000 ; St. Anthony and Minneapolis, 10,000 ; and the 
 Valley of the Mississippi and Crow Wing, is said to 
 have now population and business enough, unassisted, 
 to execute and maintain the work proposed, with pro- 
 fit to the promoters. 
 
THE RED RIVER. 
 
 Ill 
 
 From ♦ the foregoing it is evident, that while eveiy 
 cfTort ought to be made to form a rapid communication 
 between Eed River and the Western colonies on the 
 Pacific, there is no necessity to encumber the under- 
 taking at first, by considering or discussing the com- 
 munications most required, from Eed River eastward, 
 to the Atlantic, — communications which are certain to 
 spring into existence, contemporaneously with the 
 execution of the portion of the route westward from 
 Red River. 
 
 The Red River flowing from south to north is navigable 
 from 46° 23' lat., gradually deepening to sixteen feet at 
 Lake Winnepeg, from soundings taken by Captain Pope. 
 Captain Palliser writes of it : " My descent of the whole 
 of Red River, from its principal source, has enabled 
 me to judge of its great facilities for steam boat navi- 
 gation." Professor Hind says that, owing to some 
 sharp turns in the river, steamers intended for it should 
 not exceed 120 feet in length. 
 
 The great natural advantages for settlement of the 
 valley of the Red River are too familiarly known to 
 require notice here; it is enough to say that its 
 prsirins, covered with long red grass, extend far up the 
 Assinaboine River, to the junction of which with the 
 Moose River there is, for upwards of 400 miles, a well 
 defined track over the plains, over which the cart that 
 accompanied Sir George Simpson passed without incon- 
 venience. " On the east, north, and south," he says, 
 " there was not a mound or tree to vary the vast ex- 
 panse of greensward ; while to the west were the 
 gleaming bays of the Assinaboine, separated from each 
 
 * There is now consideruble traffic in spirits and furs between 
 St. Paul's and Pembina. The nunil)er of earts that arrived at St. 
 Paul's from Ked Kiver in 1858, was 400. 
 
 I n 
 
 ^1 ■ 
 
 1 
 
• . ,'1 ■„»- 
 
 'iacc 
 
 
 ¥ /, ^i*l 
 
 ti 
 
 ! , 
 
 
 l\i ii\ 
 
 itft f 
 
 •f : 1.1 
 
 ri 
 
 r- 
 
 li 
 
 112 
 
 QUl-APPELLE RIVER. 
 
 other by wooded points of considerable depth." Cap- 
 tain Palliser appears also to have taken carts with him 
 westward as far as the Elbow, and says that, as far as 
 106° W., long, he had suffered no inconvenience from 
 want of wood. 
 
 Although Captain Palliser writes, " I have been able 
 to ascertain that there exists a valuable water commu- 
 nication between the south Sascatchewan and the Eed 
 Eiver, and thai", a good-sized boat, and even perhaps a 
 small steamer, might descend from the south Sascat- 
 chewan, ascend the west Qui-Appelle Eiver, cross the 
 Qui-Appelle Lakes, and then descend the Qui-Appelle 
 into Eed Eiver." In the proposal made, a waggon road 
 is preferred, as the above statement is too insufficiently 
 supported to act on. Still this water communication 
 might be of some use in connection with freight. 
 
 The navigation of the south brandi of the Sascatche- 
 wan is probably better than the north * ; if so, being in 
 the direction required, it is preferable to the latter. As 
 on this point uncertainty still exists, it is to be regretted 
 that by the exploring parties engaged it was not thought 
 necessary to launch a raft or boat, properly provided, at 
 the western end, and by a proper examination extending 
 to the Elbow, to remove or confirm existing doubts on 
 the subject. It is also to be regretted that none of tlie 
 many military engineers, who have within tlie last 
 couple of years been sent to the Western colonies, and 
 whose talents and education so preeminently qualify 
 them to conduct sucii an investigation, their instructions 
 caking them through American territory instead of 
 across the mountains by the Hudson's Bjiy Company's 
 trail (as Captain Palliser went), had an opportunity to 
 examine the country on tiie passage outward. Captain 
 
 * See note at cml of chapter. 
 
SOUTH SASCATCIIEWAX. 
 
 113 
 
 Palliser, writing in September, of the south branch, in 
 109° long., says, " Tliis magnificent river rivals the Mis- 
 souri in size and volume, and even at this, tlie lowest state 
 of water during the whole year*, was navigable for craft of 
 any size, as I found by sad experience, having been so 
 unfortunate as to lose one of my waggons in the chan- 
 nel of the river, at a depth of sixteen feet." In anotlier 
 place he says of the south branch, " We found ii: very 
 deep in lat. 50° 55', our horses as well as ourselves being 
 obUged to swim." Of the south branch. Sir G. Snnp- 
 son says, " It is of considerable size without any im- 
 pediment of any moment, one-third of a mile in width 
 at twenty miles above its junction with the nortli 
 branch." " A smart ride of four or five hours brought 
 the party, through a country very much resembling an 
 English park, to the north branch in lat. 53°, long. 
 108.° The Sascatchewan is here, observes Sir George 
 Simpson, upwards of a quarter of a mile wide, present- 
 ing, as its name implies, a swift current. It is navigable 
 for boats from the Eocky Mountain passes in long. 116° 
 to Lake Winnepeg, upwards of 700 miles in a straight 
 line, but by the actual course of the stream nearly 
 double that distance." From these remarks I infer that 
 the volume of water in the south branch is greater and 
 more lasting than in the north, an inference which is 
 strengthened by examining their relative positions on 
 the map. 
 
 Mr. James M'Kay, an intelligent partner of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company, who is in charge of Fort Ellis, 
 and ti'om his long residence in the neighbourhood ought 
 to be good authority, insists that both branches of the 
 
 ^ r 
 
 * Here the Captain is evidently in error; tlic water is lowest 
 early in spring. Kep. Sel. Com. II. B. C. 18.')7. No. 788. 
 
 I 
 
' ! t' 
 
 114 
 
 RED DEER AND BATTLE RIVERS. 
 
 J 
 
 P. 
 
 ^ 
 
 Sascatchewan are as navigable as the Mississippi at St. 
 raul's, quite to the vicinity of the Eocky Mountains. 
 
 From early in May until late in October*, the 
 river would probably be navigable and full. There is dis- 
 tinct evidence that on the southern branch there arc 
 " fewer rapids," if any, and long reaches wholly with- 
 out rapids.f While we have evidence of the prevalence 
 of curves in the north branch, and in the south branch 
 from Elbow to its j miction with the former ; as far as 
 the south branch has been examined, from the Elbow 
 towards the Eocky Mountains, it appears straight. J 
 
 From the nature of the ground through which it passes, 
 obstacles, if any, would consist of mud flats or sand- 
 bars at sharp turns in the river, which might easily be 
 removed by dredging, or the application of a little 
 engineering skill. 
 
 The absence of timber on the banks is a decided ad- 
 vantage ; floating timber on a swift river, snags, and 
 "sawyers," are exceedingly dangerous, troublesome, 
 and expensive impediments to steam navigation. 
 
 Fuel cannot be wanting : on Eed Deer Eiver a group 
 of coal exists, in which three beds measure twenty 
 feet, twelve of wliich is pure coal. At Souris Eiver 
 coal is found, and at Edmonton in abundance ; but for 
 a long time the steamers on the south branch would, 
 no doubt, burn wood, taken down with a favourable 
 current, from Eed Deer Eiver, which is navigable (Battle 
 Eiver is not), or from some other point equally favour- 
 able on the western side of the river to be navigated. & 
 
 * Sub. Com. H. B. C, 1857, p. 49. 
 t Sir G. Simpson, Ev. II. B. C, 1857, Nos. 778 and 788. 
 X Parliamentary Papers, relating to Lake Superior and Red 
 River Settlement, p. 151. 
 
 § In regard to transporting wood for fuel, aa 1300 lbs. of coal 
 
T 
 
 SOURCE OP THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 115 
 
 pi at St. 
 tains. 
 ;r*, the 
 re is dis- 
 nere are 
 ly witli- 
 evalence 
 branch 
 as far as 
 Elbow 
 ht.J 
 
 it passes, 
 or sand- 
 iasily be 
 a little 
 
 ided ad- 
 igs, and 
 3lesoine, 
 I. 
 
 a group 
 twenty 
 
 is River 
 
 but for 
 would, 
 
 ourable 
 (Battle 
 
 favour- 
 
 ^ated.§ 
 
 ind Red 
 '• of coal 
 
 The route proposed would be quite near enough to 
 the valuable agricultural land that borders on the north 
 branch to answer as its outlet, and this remark will 
 refer equally to the " rich soil so well adapted for 
 pasture and agricultural purposes " so abundantly dis- 
 tributed on the banks of Battle Eiver ; and we shoidd 
 not omit from the consideration the large district west 
 of the Eocky Mountains, watered by the Columbia and 
 its tributary, the M'GilUvray or Flatbow Eiver. It 
 is estimated at 20,000 square miles, and has been de- 
 scribed in enthusiastic terms by the Catholic Bishop 
 of Oregon, De Smet in his Oregon missions. The ter- 
 ritoiy of the Kootonais Indians would seem, fi-om his 
 glowing description, to be divided in favourable propor- 
 tions between forests and prairies. Of timber, he names 
 birch, pines, cedar, and cypress ; speaks of specimens of 
 coal, and " great quantities of lead," apparently mixed 
 with silver.* The source of the Columbia seemed to im- 
 press him as a very important point. He observes that 
 the climate is dehghtfiU, extremes of heat and cold seldom 
 known, the snow disappearing as it falls. He reiterates 
 the opinion that the advantages nature seems to have 
 bestowed on the source of the Columbia, will render its 
 geographical position very important some day, and 
 that tlie magic hand of civilised man woidd transform 
 it into a terrestrial paradise ; that it can be reached in 
 waggons from Salt Lake City, along the western base 
 of the Eocky Mountains ; and that Brigham Young 
 proposed to lead his next Mormon exodus to the source 
 of the Columbia river : considered in connection with 
 
 make as much steam as 4500 lbs. of wood (if pine), coal can be 
 with economy transported three and a half times as far as wood, 
 other considerations being balanced. 
 
 * An ore .similar perhaps to that at "Washoe. 
 
 I 2 
 
 in 
 
 I 
 
 n 
 
 r\ 
 
• ,us^j . 
 
 116 
 
 VERMILION PASS TO HOPETOWX. 
 
 J V.': ! 
 
 'iV 
 
 ! I 
 
 f ! 
 
 the Mormon establishment, a sort of half-way post on 
 the Salmon Eiver, a branch of the Columbia, it seems 
 not impossible that such a move may have been con- 
 templated by the Mormons.* 
 
 That a good road can be made from Vennilion 
 Pass to Colville has been already shown ; that a road 
 equally favourable can be found south-westward to 
 Hopetown, will appear probable from the following 
 remark of Dr. Hector ; that looking from the pass 
 across Brisco range, from south-west to south, moun- 
 tains are not seen, "so that if any portion of that 
 country is occupied by any, they must be of very 
 inferior altitude." Mountains do intervene, but not in 
 unbroken ranges, and the road would have to be 
 traced through the valleys of the Flatbow, Arrow, and 
 Okanagan lakes, successively to that of the Similka- 
 meen Eiver, and thence to Hopetown. What is 
 known of this road is excellent, with the exception of 
 the crossing at Manson's Mountain, twelve miles from 
 Hope, which (I had no means of measuring it) to 
 me did not appear more than 1800 feet or so high ; 
 but all the country in the immediate neighbourhood of 
 it looks so broken, that I have no doubt, when pro- 
 perly looked for, a better crossing in the range to 
 which this mountain belongs will be found. The 
 valley of the Similkamecn and Flatbow rivers are 
 \nown to be fertile, and to abound with excellent 
 pasture. The Okanagan and Arrow valleys will, I 
 apprehend, be found more rugged, but by no means 
 formidably so. 
 
 
 Vide Report Sol. Com.: Log. Minnesota, 1858. 
 
 i 
 
CLIMATE. 
 
 117 
 
 to 
 
 111 
 
 Climate ofjiroposed Route. 
 
 As some very erroneous impressions regarding the 
 climate of the different localities through which the 
 proposed line must pass prevail, I may be excused for 
 making the following remarks. It is commonly said 
 that in point of temperature, in North America, the 
 same effect is experienced by ^ravelling through 1° of 
 long, westward as by travelling through i° of lat. 
 southward. This is uianifestly an exaggeration ; still it 
 is a fact that, as we move westward, the climate 
 becomes milder, and the average annual temperature is 
 increased. This increase of temperature, in the region 
 we are speaking of, on the same latitude, amounts 
 probably from side to side of the continent, to 15° 
 Fahr.*, an effect, perhaps, produced by the summer 
 winds of the Pacific, which blow almost constantly 
 from west or north-west, wafting warmth and moisture 
 through the passes of the rocky chain. But whatever 
 the cause, the fact is certain ; the south part of Van- 
 couver Island, for instance, having a climate much 
 milder than in England, is a hundred miles north of 
 Quebec. An isothermal f line drawn across the con- 
 tinent would, of course, be far from straight, but the 
 general obHquity of such a line may be judged of in 
 this way : — K such a line were drawn from New York 
 it would pass through Lake Winnepeg to Fort Simp- 
 son ; in other words, if New York were, with respect to 
 latitude, similarly placed on the west coast. Fort Simp- 
 son, a thousand miles north of it, would enjoy a tempe- 
 
 st 
 
 )9 
 
 * Sir Jolin Kichardson makes this 20° Falir. 
 f Vide Physical Gcogiaphy, Maury, Plate VIII. 
 
 I 3 
 
^rwTssr; 
 
 ^^^Hr^S"^. "T '-rT;»T.r*'~^ 
 
 Mi-i"d 
 
 118 
 
 •CLIMATE. 
 
 ■•^1 
 
 ■! I 
 
 i I 
 
 rature equally favourable with it. 3Ir. Blodget, who has 
 pubhshed an extensive work on the climatology of the 
 United States, remarks that nine-tenths of European 
 Eussia, — the main seat of population and resources 
 — is fartlier north than St. Paul ; that, in fact, Pem- 
 bina is the chmatic equivalent of Moscow, and for that 
 of St. Petersburg (which is in G0° north), we may rea- 
 sonably go to lat. 55° on the American continent. Like 
 European Russia, also, the Sascatchewan district has a 
 chmate of extremes, the thermometer having a wide 
 range ; but it is well understood that the growth of 
 the cereals and of the most useful vegetables depends 
 chiefly on the intensity and duration of the summer 
 heats, and is comparatively httle influenced by the 
 severity of winter cold, or lowness of the mean tempe- 
 rature during the year. Therefore, it is important to 
 observe that the northern shore of Lake Huron has the 
 mean summer heat of Bordeaux, in Southern France, 
 namely 70° Fahr., while Cumberland House, in lat. 54°, 
 long. 102, on the Sascatchewan, exceeds, in this re- 
 spect, Brussels and Paris. The United States Army 
 Meteorological Eegister has ascertained that the line of 
 70° mean summer heat crosses the Hudson River at 
 West Point, thence descends to the latitude of Pitts- 
 burg, but westward is traced through Sandusky, 
 Chicago, Fort Snelling, and Fort Union, into British 
 America. " It is warmer," he says, " at Fort Benton 
 on the Missouri, in long. 110^° west, and lat. 47^° north 
 for every season, than at St. Paul, Minnesota. The 
 mean winter temperature at Fort Benton is 25°, and 
 the same as that of Chicago, Toronto, Albany, and 
 Portland, Maine. At St. Paul it is but 15° or 10° less. 
 It is not so cold as this on the mam (south) branch of 
 the Sascatchewan." 
 
CLIMATIC. 
 
 110 
 
 Allowing the 15°Falir. before mentioned; considering 
 1° Int. south equal to 1° Fahr. ; also, as usual, 300 feet 
 of altitude equal to 1° Fahr. ; the average climate of the 
 VeriniUon Pass would probably resemble that of 
 Moose or York factories in the southern part of 
 Hudson's Bay, of which Dr. Eae* says the summer 
 there extends from early in June to early in November, 
 five months. Mr. A. C. Anderson's opinion on this 
 
 object, from his long residence in the country, is entitled 
 to attention : of the Upper Fraser he says : — 
 
 " The regular freshets begin at the latter end of 
 April, and last during May and June. About the 15tli 
 of Jime may be regarded as the culminating point ; and 
 by the middle of July the waters are generally greatly 
 subsided. There is rarely a freshet of much conse- 
 quence at any other s(\asou ; but this sometimes happens, 
 and I have known a sudden freshet from hea^y rains, 
 in October, raise the river beyond the summer limit. 
 
 " Snow begins to fall in the mountains eaiiy in October. 
 In July there is still snow for a short distance on the 
 summit of the Fort Hope trail, but not to impede the 
 passage of horses. From the middle of October, how- 
 ever, to the middle of June, this track is not to be 
 depended upon for transport with pack animals. 
 
 "The summer climate about the Forks is dry, and the 
 heat is great. During winter, the thermometer indicates 
 occasionally from 20° to 30° of cold below zero of 
 Fahrenheit ; but such severe cold seldom lasts on the 
 upper parts of Fraser's River for more than three days ; 
 the thermometer will then continue to fluctuate between 
 zero and the freezing point, until, possibly, another 
 interval of cold arrives. 
 
 "But the winters are extremely capricious throughout 
 
 * Ev. U. B. C. AffaiiH, 1857, No. 135. 
 I 4 
 
 
 I 
 
1-20 
 
 CLLMATE. 
 
 i^lii 
 
 these regions, and no two resemble each otlier very 
 closely. In (general the snow does not fall deep enow/h 
 along the banks of the main streams to ])}'eclude winter 
 travelling with pack animals. The quality of the pas- 
 ture is such (a kind of bunch grass in most places) that 
 animals feed well at all seasons. There are many spots 
 between the Similikameen Valley and Okanagan that 
 are specially favourable for winter ranches. In some 
 the snow never Hes, however deep it may be around." 
 
 Mr. John Miles, on May 1st, found the Sascatchewan 
 country completely free from snow, and the river very 
 full of water.* 
 
 Of a cUmate known to be capricious, whether we com- 
 pare seasons or locahties, it is of course impossible to 
 speak with certainty ; but, we have evidence enough to 
 justify the inference that Vermilion Pass would be open at 
 least five or six months, (perhaps seven) out of the twelve, 
 and the remaining portions of the route much longer. 
 
 One peculiarity of the cUmate of the country it re- 
 quires in England an effort to realise. Surrounded by 
 snowy peaks, the air is often not only warm but sultry. 
 Even at Victoria, where snow seldom exceeds a few 
 inches, or Langley, we have evidence of this every day. 
 The snow itself is not of the damp, compact nature 
 Ave are accustomed to, it is light, diy, and diifting ; on 
 this account, when it does come to thaw, it disappears 
 with astonishing rapidity, f 
 
 The annexed data extracted from the reports of the 
 Secretary of War, U. S., 1853 — 1854, record some 
 particularly interesting fiicts on this point. 
 
 ♦ Ev. H. B. C. Affairs, No. 4684. Jan. 9th, 1858, " Little or no 
 snow on the ground " from Edmonton to Rocky Mountain House, 
 Explor. British North America, p. 25. 
 
 t Vide also Par. Rail. Report, vol. i. p. 47. 
 
CLIMATE. 
 
 121 
 
 Mr.riiikliam crossed tlie mountains from Walla-Walla 
 to Seattle, by the Yakima pass, tlie summit of which he 
 crossed on the 21st of January. For about six miles on 
 tiie sununit, the snow was found to vary from 4 ft. to 
 G ft. in depth — occasionally 7 ft. The area covered 
 by snow exceeding 12 in. in depth, was somewhat 
 less than 70 miles ; of this 45 miles were 2 ft. 
 and upwards ; 20 miles were 4 ft. and upwards ; and 
 5 miles were 6 ft. and upwards. All the snow was 
 hght and dry; it was the accumulated snows of the 
 winter to January 21st ; deposited in successive layers 
 of 2 in. to 2 ft., which have generally lain undisturbed 
 since their fall, and they present Httle obstruction to 
 removal in comparison with the compact drifted snows 
 of the Atlantic states. The winter and spring tempera- 
 ture of the Yakima pass, 3000 — 4000 ft. elevation, are 
 given as follows : —Nov. 36°; Dec. 28'' ; Jan. 28°; Feb. 
 30"; March 31°; April 38°. The mean temperature 
 at Puget Sound, from observations extending over four 
 years, is exactly 10° higher than these ; at the Sound 
 the whiter rain is 20-6 in., and since more rain usually 
 falls in the neighbourhood of mountains than on plains, 
 and snow occupies from ten to twelve times the bulk of 
 an equal quantity of rain, it is probable that the accu- 
 mulated snows of winter, in the Vermihon Pass, would 
 exceed twenty or twenty-one feet, but tliat the pass 
 would frequently be open in December and passable in 
 May. 
 
 There was no necessity to consider, in connection 
 with the foregoing statements, any questions connected 
 with unextinguished claims of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany to the lands required. First, because the Directors 
 have distinctly stated, that they are already prepared 
 to recommend to the shai'eholders of the Company to 
 
18t 
 
 TRADE WITH TlIK ASIATIC tONTIXKXT. 
 
 cede any lands wliich may be reqiiii'ed for such piiri)Ose,s; 
 and, that the terms of sucli cessions would be a matter 
 of no (Ufficulty between Her Majesty's Government and 
 the Company * : l)ut principally because it is clearly to 
 the interest of the Hudson's Bay Company to co-operate 
 with and promote any ])lan of colonisation, the onus and 
 responsibility of which is not imposed upon them ; since 
 any such plan, if carried into execution, must raise im- 
 mensely the value of the improved lands adjoining 
 their numerous forts, the legal title to which, it may 
 be conjectured, would be confnined to them. 
 
 ^] 
 
 •<;i 
 
 In relation to China, Japan, and Australia. 
 
 I before mentioned my doubts of the trade of the 
 Asiatic continent with England being carried over the 
 line, if constructed. But tlierc can be httle doubt that 
 if Victoria should become a depot of English goods, 
 trade with China must result, and tlie island become in 
 this respect a " half-Avay house." Its geographical posi- 
 tion is more connnanding tlian even that of San Fran- 
 cisco. EecoUecting that in the North Pacific the 
 westerly monsoons blow strongest all the summer 
 north of 45°, and that, during the same period, the 
 north-east tradewinds south of the Sandwich Islands, 
 and the calms of Cancer in the latitudes of Shanghae 
 and Canton, prevail ; and that in a straight Hne Cliina 
 may be said to be equidistant from Vancouver Island 
 and San Francisco ; a steamer from the island would 
 reach Canton in about the same time as from San 
 Francisco, — say forty or forty-two days ; a saihng sliip 
 from the latter woidd be five or six days in advance ; but 
 
 * Vide Papers relative to the II. B. C.'s Charter and Licence of 
 Trade in April 1859, pp. 15 and IG. 
 
r- 
 
 rOSTAL COMML'MCATION WITH AL'.STUALIA. 
 
 1.23 
 
 since, on the return voyage, in either case a vessel must 
 keep so fur to the north ; wliile the average passage 
 from Ilong Kong to San Francisco is fifty-five days, it 
 would not exceed forty days to Vancouver Island. 
 
 The overland route suggested involves, liowever, a 
 consideration of even far greater magnitude than tlie 
 foregoing. I allude to the increased rapidity of postal 
 communication between England and the Australian 
 colonies. In transmitting intelligence, to or from, the 
 saving of time, compared with that now required, 
 would not fall far short of a month. Vancouver 
 Island is nearer to Sydney by 900 miles than Pa- 
 nama is, which any one can test with a map and 
 compass. In November last (30th November 1859), 
 the legislative council of New South Wales unani- 
 mously resolved " that the house continuing ton^uintain 
 its opinion on this unfortunate subject, in which 
 it considers the future interests of this colony are 
 deeply involved, will not entertain any question in 
 regard to a postal subsidy, which sh 11 ignore the 
 deliberate conviction respecting the Panama route, to 
 which this branch of the legislature gave expression in 
 February last ; and at the same time expresses its readi- 
 ness to concur in fulfilhng any obhgations devolving 
 upon this colony, so long as it is compelled to avail 
 itself of the existing arrangements." Would not the 
 proposed route, if executed, remove this difficulty, 
 and happily unite all the colonies so disconnected at 
 present ? As Judge Hahburton, on a similar subject, re- 
 marked, " Here is the bundle of sticks ; all they want is 
 to be properly united." If, as anticipated in the depth 
 of winter, the overland route should be interrupted, 
 the connecting steamers could, during the interval, run 
 to Panama. 
 
12t 
 
 POSTAL SUBSIDIES. 
 
 pi 
 
 Pi 
 
 I 
 
 •5 1 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ■A; 
 
 i 
 
 t 
 
 Conclusions arrived at. 
 
 From a penisal of the facts stated in this and the 
 foregoing chapter, and bearing in mind that the trade 
 of the West Indies is a dechning one, and that of the 
 Noith Pacific Colonies is every day more promising ; 
 that from London, the West Indies and Panama, can 
 be reached as quickly^ vid HaUfax, Portland, or Isew 
 York, as at present by the Royal Mail line of steamers ; 
 that the commerce of England with North America, 
 generally steadily increasing, is more than double that 
 of the West Indies, Central and South America, put 
 together ; — the following very important conclusions 
 wiU, I think, be drawn, that, if the northern route 
 through British territory can be opened as easily as 
 described ; and if a line of steamers were encouraged 
 to run between the Australian Colonies and Vf»ncouver 
 Island, while the land route might be open, and the 
 same steamers were to run between Austraha and 
 Panama in winter ; and if one of the lines of steamers 
 at present subsidised to Canada or the States, were 
 extended to Aspinwall*, the postal subsidy of 238,500/. 
 per annum to the Royal Mail line, might be dispensed 
 with without injury to any existing interest ; and the 
 steamers themselves, if withdrawn, would not be 
 missed ; the postal subsidy of 135,000/ to Australia, 
 vid Midta, Alexandria, Suez, and Ceylon, applied to 
 the shorter Pacific route ; and, if that portion of the 
 subsidy of 122,025/. to Alexandria, Calcutta, and China, 
 which applies to China only, were withdrawn, and ap- 
 pHed to encouraging a Hne of steamers from Vancouver 
 
 ♦ £14,700 per ann. is paid to the Cunard line for extension to 
 Bermuda and St. Thomas. 
 
INFERENCE. 
 
 125 
 
 Island to Cliina, British commerce would benefit im- 
 mensely by the change ; the colonies of Great Britain 
 in Nortli America would be united, rendered accessible, 
 and their trade develo])ed ; a great saving to the 
 nation at large, and in the million which is annually 
 expended in postal subsidies, by England, would be 
 effected ; and it is even highly probable, that the 
 interests of large steam companies, which, at first sight, 
 would appear to suffer, might benefit from a change 
 which could, after all, be to a great extent accomplished 
 by a transfer of steamers from one path on the ocean 
 to another. 
 
 P.S. Since the forogoing was written, it is reported that Captain 
 Palliser has examined the course of the South Saskatchewan river, 
 and has ascertained that it is not so strr.ight as was conjecttired ; 
 that it forms a deep loop or southerly beud between 110° W. long. 
 and 113°. If so, an alteration in the detail of the proposed route 
 might be required : more land travel and less hy water. 
 
 It is also paid that the south branch is more divided than the 
 north branch at equal distances from the mountains ; it does not, 
 however, follow from this, that the main stream of the former, its 
 lower level being taken into account, may not contain a greater body 
 of water than the latter. The principal objection to using the north 
 branch as the thoroughfare from west to east is its indirectness, 
 adding 300 miles to the entire distance. 
 
 Traversing, as the north branch does, a country fertile and available 
 for early settlement, which a considerable portion of the south branch 
 does not, steamers would no doubt soon be placed upon the former 
 as a consequence of the occui)ation of the coimtry, which the opening 
 of the more direct rommuiiication must occasion. 
 
 Laden batteaux, or light canoes, may pass the grand rapids in 
 safety, but these oppose a soi-ious barrier to the more northerly 
 navigation, as it would l)e premature to talk of the construction of 
 two or three miles of expensive canals and locks, besides which an 
 accunuilation of ice often obstriu-ts the navigation at the head of 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
,JPU4.JII 
 
 «■■■ 
 
 126 
 
 NOTK. 
 
 II* 
 
 5 
 
 i 
 
 
 I 
 
 u 
 
 
 \ 
 
 Lake Winncpeg for weeks after the rivers that flow int.* it are 
 free. 
 
 It is true that liglit carts have frequently passed between Red 
 River and Edmonton, bnt as the wliole cotintry is Avell adai)ted to 
 the construction of waggon roads, this circumstance alone should 
 have little weight in determining a preference for one route over 
 another. 
 
 Whatever route may be adopted, it should be recolleotpd that in 
 this country, while navigation is uncertain before the 1st of May and 
 later than Slst of October, traffic on roads would be a certainty for a 
 longer period of the year. 
 
 ^ 
 
.tl^..tlM 
 
 ^ into It are 
 
 5efwpen I?ed 
 1 adapted to 
 i.Ione 8liouId 
 B route over 
 
 ~\] 
 
 >cted that in 
 t of May and 
 jrtainty for a 
 
 
 i-i 
 
I 
 
 1 i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 v^. 
 
127 
 
 CIIA1\ VIII. 
 
 SOCIETY IN THE COLONIES. 
 
 It is fortunate for these colonies that notices of the 
 society, which an emigrant or tourist may expect to 
 meet with in them, are rare. Such as have foiaid 
 their way into print present anytliing but a flattering 
 picture or exalted idea of the social elements of tlie 
 place. The following passage, for mstance, occurs m 
 a book akeady referred to : — 
 
 " Of smaU birds, there is the Mexican woodpecker, 
 and a large mis-shapen species of bullfinch — note it 
 has none ; and indeed aves vocales may, generally 
 speaking, be said never to be met with on the west 
 coast of America. The settler in these parts misses 
 equally the lively carol of the lark, the sweet cheerful 
 note of the tlirush, and the melancholy melody of the 
 nightingale ; still more will he of gentle mind, as he 
 wends his solitary way through these distant wilds, 
 feel impelled to hanker after the pleasiu-es of society, 
 and to long for the charm of conversation with the fiiir 
 daughters of liis country." 
 
 To classify ladies with birds, singing birds especially, 
 is at once novel and poetical. In this hglit, for the 
 rosy robin, the gentle dove, the musical linnet, (but 
 never for the mis-sha]3en bullfinch,) unfeathered repre- 
 sentatives might easily be conceived. Lideed the sugges- 
 tion will naturally occur tliat, instead of the very limited 
 number of bh'ds now worn in hats, a dive 'ito natural 
 
 i'' 
 
f ITiberrwdtf^a h't felly 
 ^ O U T r ^n^iuphivL. file. 
 
 *W: 
 
 lUi'veF^. ^^^nUcba 
 
 BUrtsLaH 
 
 
 Jiain^i- ^-^«^ 
 
 
 cr_^jet^ 
 
 
 
 mc 
 
 s 
 
 ^k. 
 
 f,m: 
 
 
 
 
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 /■ r> 
 
 "^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 "^•V 
 
 '••> 
 
 % 
 
 § 
 
 
 'i\: 
 
 ilmhi^ 
 
 tb^^ 
 
 hibiiH^ 
 
 UnO- 
 
 ^Litramif ^^ 
 
 o ^ ^ 
 
 90 
 
fK) 
 
 85 
 
 \0 
 
 \OHR 
 
 .«^^ 
 
 r 
 
 
 .^' 
 
 l^ 
 
 '(/VfSL i y/\ /)' 
 
 ^ 
 
 \ 
 
 T' 
 
 I. 
 
 
 
 Ik' 
 
 
 
 ^j^j^o' Kwf'"' 
 
 /r^ wi "^ 1 1 Sfl-airforr 
 
 
 i'v- Bv. 
 
 
 BirdMmll 
 
 linuidcn-i 
 
 '**^^»K^^?^i?^^ 
 
 "Tto^^Z/iftf^i 
 
 ^^ Fr pi^i^Sf^^^ 
 
 fa 
 
 
 'Stunk''"-' \. nwJ^r^ u ''• - 
 
 .cch»- 
 
 
 
 !rr 
 
 '-k 
 
 
 
 crDeyil 
 
 ^nw< 
 
 liVV 
 
 '^ 
 
 leu 
 
 
 ^r 
 
 L^ 
 
 <f 
 
 f 
 
 ^4«. 
 
 A. 
 
 
 Kai'mchiQifh 
 or (Pniend 
 
 ■ vs.-. • '00 
 
 ' > f K ^ 
 
 ^\^ _ %r7;i=^^ lA-z^fluW^^ 
 
 
 i.Ji>'>-' 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 trvc^ 
 
 -^^---sS. 
 
 /* ■ Litrnrnif 
 
 A^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 ir 
 
 
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 i/<>i"r 
 
 lierio. 
 
 
i'.Wellfir, Lth. Red Lion Square liondau. 
 
-#i 
 
 I 
 
 128 A NEWSPAPER CONX'EPTIOX OF A GOLDEN AGE. 
 
 liistory would lead to the niiinbcr being vastly ex- 
 tended : tlie bird worn could be emblematic of tlie 
 wearer, and a new and very beautiful system of femi- 
 nine heraldry result. But the fact that the category 
 commences with small birds is sufficient to show, 
 modem fashions being taken into account, that the 
 allegory was written some years ago. This must have 
 been the case, for at the present time (although when 
 away from the settlements one must not expect to 
 meet ladies, like so many Moseses, in the bush) society 
 in the colonies will, in this respect, compare favourably 
 with that of any locidity in Great Britain where the 
 luniibers are on a i)ar. Nor is the place so intolerably 
 dull as it's painted ; for in this, as in most other 
 colonies, Philhaniionic concerts, balls, theatricals, and 
 social entertainments of a quieter character, are not 
 neglected. 
 
 The next notice taken of the society of the place 
 occiu*s in the Illustrated London News, tlie pictures 
 in which, as in this instance, do not always remind 
 one of the originals : in it (March 12th, 1859) the 
 Editor characterises the population as " the ofTscoarings 
 of the civiUsed world ; " the place as " bereft of the 
 humblest needs of existence ; " and the Indians as 
 " savages of the k)west types of humanity." The an- 
 nexed statement of the able Judge of British Columbia, 
 extracted from a recent and interesting letter of The 
 Times' Correspondent, places this matter in a very 
 different light. 
 
 The Judge writes : — 
 
 " It is a legitimate subject of no small congratulation 
 that in a country so wild and almost pathless (certiiinly 
 roadless) as this, with a population generally pointed 
 at as the refuse of California — with a magistracy Aveak 
 
A CAI.KXnAH or C'RIMK. 
 
 12!) 
 
 in numbers, weaker in tlicir <rrent inexpei'ienee, from 
 tlie judge downwards i-voiy <>i»e of tlit'in new to 
 judicial and magisterial business — with a j)oli('e never 
 t^\'enty in number, and never more thiin four or \\\o. 
 in one plaee — tlie population all armed, and all en- 
 gaged in tlie most exciting and demoralizing pursuit 
 
 which man can follow (namely, gold-hunting) thei'e 
 
 should have been in the whole of the ])re--ent (now 
 last) year not one nunxler, not one attemj)ted nunder, 
 not (me duel, and but one assault with a d(\idlyw(»apon 
 at all in the whole of British Columbia. Under I'ro- 
 videnee, this wonderful result, imexampled in the 
 history of new gold-mining countries, lias been withont 
 doubt produced by the firnmess of the Governoi", and 
 the unhesitating sternness with which one or two 'dif- 
 ficulties' which occurred at the close of the past year 
 had been met and punished. It has been thoroughly 
 impressed upon our whole population that the cowardly 
 and ruffianly outrages perjietrated to so lamentable a?i 
 extent elsewhere, under the above euphonism, will 
 here consign the ofifenders without the hope of mercy 
 to the gallows, or a lile-long imprisoiunent." 
 
 The Judge renuu'ks with reasonable pride that 
 Blackstone is more regarded in his jurisdiction than 
 Judge Lynch ; and while he draws an accurate and 
 just compariM)n between " the statistics of blood" on 
 the south and those on the north side of the 49th 
 deff. of iK^rth latitude fiivourable to the' latter, yet he 
 does ami)le justice to the Californians who have come 
 h) Britisli Columbia. Of them he reports that they 
 have always — "Mai.ifested a great desire to see justice 
 i'airly done, and great patience with the difiiculties 
 which the mairistrates and the judiciary have had to 
 contend Avith. I have fre(juently complimented my 
 
 K 
 
 I 
 
 M 
 
130 
 
 rOT.OXIAL PIIIVATIOXS. 
 
 rough auditory — sometimes 150 miners — on tlic good 
 order and maiil > respect observed in my court." 
 
 As a class, the miners of British Columbia liavo a 
 much woi!^e charsicter tluin tliey deserve. Generally 
 spcidving, tln'y are not only civil and sober in their 
 habits, but well read and intelligent. On their first 
 arrival in the country, liowever, they were accom- 
 panied with the usual [)r()p(ntion of gamblers and "How- 
 dies ; " but for these, the [)lace was soon made anything 
 .but a desirable residence by the lirm and uncompro- 
 mising attitude of the British authorities. The fact 
 is, it would bo ni= imfiiir to identify tlu; miners with 
 the black-legs who follow them as it would be to 
 class the British army with the suttlers who hang* 
 about tlu* camp. 
 
 Again, it is rather difficult to attach a definite mean- 
 ing to the expression, " humblest needs of existence," 
 of which the peoi)le are bereft ; beef and mutton, and 
 fish and game, milk and vegetables, a})pcar to be 
 within the reach of the ])oorest — the native fruits of 
 the coimtry make excellent pastry. The best teas at 
 1.9. and 1.5. 4(1. i)er lb. find their way, vid Sandwich 
 Islands, from China. Wines round the Horn and cigars 
 from ]\[anilla jiay no duty. English fruits are grown, 
 and those of the tropics imjiorted. Grapes are 1.9. per 
 pound. Every restaurant prints an elalx^rate bill of 
 fare. There is no want of pul)lic baths. Saddle-horses 
 can be hired, and vehicles to drive about in. The 
 blacks make excellent cooks. The editor must have 
 had an uncomfortable dream. 
 
 Again, these Indians aic far from being the lowest 
 types of humanity, notwithstanding their moral de- 
 
 ^ 
 
 Or rather, who ought to be hanprod. 
 
iviHA.vs. 
 
 itt 
 
 good 
 
 lavo J I 
 jorally 
 tlic'ir 
 |r iii\st 
 iccom- 
 'llow- 
 'tliing 
 
 gradation, w1k'1\' visitt'd hy die \\liiti"i. On tlic con- 
 tniiy, iiiiiiiv of tlk'Hi iiw ic'iiiiiikjihlv j'ond lookin.^ 
 with {i(|uilint' fcaturi's —mnk-c iisclid siTvants mo 
 somt'titnos strictly lioiKst to tlii'ir cmployci-s oiilv ('iiii 
 plouj^ii and di'ivc oxen --arc cxcrt'diiigly iKHpitubk; in 
 tlii'ircjwn lionu's, and tcachahk' when dwolliii" innoii«rst 
 the whites; they lack neither eouriiire nor intelii;_'eneo. 
 Some' are exceedingly ingenions. One; Indian ni;ide 
 a ring for nie ont of a live-doll.ii" piece, jnid in it set 
 the stone ; and the woi'kinMUshi]) of fhc wliole was 
 I)erfect. 
 
 I have known an Indian stock n gun, making the 
 ramrod and screw at die end of it, the litting and iinish 
 of the whole being unexcej)tional)le. They weave 
 blankets, carve then" own i)ij)es, construct ciuioes, and 
 raise enormous weights in the consti'uction of their 
 dwellings. They are eminently connnercial, and can 
 quickly understand the intricacies of a tarill"; */ivv a 
 pencil and sheet of j);iper to an Indian, and he can 
 generally make a rude mnpof a country he ha^ travelled 
 through. As guides, fishermen, and hunters tluy are 
 extremely useful. In the same tribe intermarringe is 
 generally prohibited, and to ])revent war between tribes 
 they have a law that relationship follows on the 
 mother's side. The wealth of esich is pei'iodically dis- 
 tributed for the l)enefit of all ; they scorn to jjrofit by 
 the leavings of the dead, and bear pain heroically. 
 
 By the way, who are the Aborigines Protection 
 Society? The Blue Books of 1858 teem with excellent 
 advice and patheHc api)eals from them to Secretaries of 
 State and Governors of Colonies, on behalf of the red 
 man, illustrated widi dissertations on the feuds of the 
 Gryphons and Arimaspians, whoever they were, and 
 the faults of the treaty made by William Penn. Jhe 
 
 K 2 
 
 
132 
 
 ABORIGINES PROTECTION SOCIETY. 
 
 m 
 
 'i 
 
 fireside iiewsi)apcrs report tlieir meetings and their 
 views ; but does the Society, ever by riiising subscri lo- 
 tions, send out persons to give vitahty abroad to the 
 admirable doctrines which tliey inculcate at home ? It 
 is unreasonable to suppose that the high officers of the 
 crown should undertake duties that ought to devolve 
 upon the benevolent community .at large, and such a.s 
 are usually accomplished by g(^iieral opinion acting upon 
 private enterprise. 
 
 In both colonies there are said to be some 80,000 
 Indians., and v.'herever the whites liave been brought 
 into contact with them, steamers and rockers have 
 banished the fish, and himters for market the game ; 
 spirits are traded in the camps, disease and famhie have 
 thinned their numbers, and whole tribes have been re- 
 duced to immorahty and want. 
 
 From England one missionary only, the indefatigable 
 Duncan, has appeared among them as an instructor, (the 
 cfibixsof the priests being directed rather to their spiii- 
 tual than to their intellectual necessities,) but even he 
 has shown that Indians are eminently capable of being 
 taught. It is hopeless to expect that the Bishop can do 
 much to ameliorate their condition ; the moral and in- 
 tellectual wants of the European population are quite 
 enough to absorb his attention. 
 
 The Bishop of British Columbia is said to have been 
 singidarly successful in achieving the influential position 
 which ought to belong to his ollice, by instituting 'ulu- 
 cational establishments, founding a collegiate school, a 
 w\ant previously much felt, and by otherwise energeti- 
 cally promoting the moral ;uid social welfare of the 
 inhabitants immediately upon his arrival. This success 
 is the more signal because but a sliort time before 
 considerable outiM'v w{;s raised in tlie colony ai^ainst 
 
 -rrssBBK^zz: 
 
 »»i t i «nii 
 
THE CHURCH. 
 
 i:{.) 
 
 1 
 
 tlu'ir 
 crip- 
 thc 
 It 
 f tlio 
 v^olve 
 1 as 
 upon 
 
 aiiytliing bordering upim u state church. The local 
 newspapers (.leclainied against it, and the House of 
 liepreseutatives passed resolutions opposing it. The 
 \-ery title of bishop seeinod a serious iiu))ediirient to his 
 success. It is impossible not to admire the tact and 
 judgment with which he met and overcame those dilfi- 
 culties, and literally, if I may be allowed to use the term, 
 " turned the tables," converting tjhose wlio would have 
 otherwise ranked as o})ponents int-o suppliers of die 
 church of die most useful kind, by iwiforming them that 
 he asked Tor no assisUince I'rom the ytaitc ; tlutt his was 
 the voluntary system ; and that theref<M'e Ue was j)re- 
 pared to receive contributions in support 'f the chui'ch, 
 from all who were opposed to its reviving assistance 
 from the state. 
 
 The latest advices show that theCelesu ds aioni|)idiy 
 finding their way into J3ritish Columbia. If in Cali- 
 fornia, where undisguised antip:ithy to tht! race has 
 always existed, where special enactments have been 
 framed to expel them, and where they have been for 
 years the victims of organised or casual oppression, 
 their numbers increased from lr),()00in 1855 to 50,000 
 in ISGO ; it may be conjectured that the influx of them 
 to the gold fields of British Cohnnbia, where they are 
 certain, in common with all foreigners, to meet with 
 ])rotection us well as toleration, I'rom Califoi-nia and 
 China direct, will be remarkable. In California they 
 are disliked, because the/ are regarded as a j)eople 
 ndio tell fearfully on the surface digging of the country, 
 who extract large f|uantiti(;s uf gold, and who, living 
 as they do on a handful of rice and a few nondescripts, 
 and ultiniately carrying back with them to China the 
 wealth which their matchless industry has enabled 
 I hem to acquire, are in realily deirimenlal to the 
 
134 
 
 (lllNKSK. 
 
 comitiy. To thuin ii moiitli's wnjjcos in Cliinu is not 
 more tlmn tlic ordinary wages of a lal)oni'er I'or one 
 day in Briti!?li Columbia. An exi)ei-iment was tried 
 some years ago, to test the ])raotical)ility of importing 
 Chinamen as hd)oiirers into Cuba, and found successful. 
 There COO of them were apjirenticed at S4: per montli. 
 A British merchant, settled at Amoy, describes the 
 scene of despatching a vessel with 400 labourers, at 
 $^ per month and rations to Honolulu as follows : "The 
 only sorrowful persons were those whom from disease 
 or deformity we were compelled to reject. These we 
 j)laced a distinguishing mark upon, but this they re- 
 moved, and presented themselves for selection three or 
 four times. We were obliged to send them from 
 alongside in hundreds ; and tiie last day, so great was 
 the rush, that we thought they would have taken the 
 \essel from us," 
 
 The Chinese are adepts in the art of washing clothes, 
 and monopolise that business wherever they go. 
 
 With the Indians they appear to get on well, having 
 many points in conmion ; ibremost among which may 
 be reckoned immoralit3% and absence of cleanliness in 
 their dwellings. I do not know whether or not they 
 are such inveterate gamblers among themselves as 
 Indians are. 
 
 I ! 
 
 Sue Aj)p('iulix, page 170. 
 
h not 
 ' one 
 ti'ied 
 
 ^ssful. 
 luiith. 
 
 1:35 
 
 CJIAP. IX. 
 
 ' TJie 
 sease 
 we 
 yi'Q- 
 ?e or* 
 
 tJio 
 
 as 
 
 A FEW SUOGESTIOXS TO Pin-KRF.XT CI.ASSKS (»F INTF.yniNO 
 
 EMFi^UAN'TS. 
 
 Person's omigratinir tre(|iiontly lorin too liiLjli nntici- 
 l)Uti()n,s of becoiiiiiif^' siuldcMily wealtliy, and tlieroforo 
 bocoine too soon disa[)poiiitcd ; and soiiic wlio, from 
 some cause or otlier, do not cany Avilli them the 
 elements of success, reason tlius : tliat because tliey 
 have fjiiled in everything tliey undertook at liome, tlie 
 time lias couie to re])air their foi-tunes al)roa(h Xever 
 was tliere a ,u'i'eater fallacy. They forij^et, thnt of any 
 family with whom thev are acquainted, the uiembers 
 who have emiu'rated are the boldest and tlu^ most enter- 
 prisinu' ; tiiat from home '"the stronji'cr sex, the stron_Lrer 
 a«i"e, the stronger hands, the stron^M' will, are ever 
 llyin«i:; " and they are, therefons on their arrival in the 
 colony, disappointed to find sui)erior competitive talent 
 ill every walk of hie. 
 
 or the former class, the best ilhistration I Ciin _uive is 
 to select, almost at random, one from a bnndle of 
 letters from en([uirin_Li- emiu'rants, which will convince 
 any indiiferent person, that the cantion is not misplaced. 
 The foUowinji: is an extract : — 
 
 "Dear Sir, — Confident that yon will d<> lor me the 
 best you can, it is, 1 know, almost idle for me to sjjecify 
 any particulars as rcj^-ards my own views ; bnt I may 
 mention, F woM of course like to get a spot of land as 
 
 K 1 
 
 § 
 
I.IG 
 
 UOVERNMENT OFFICES. 
 
 
 -"i 
 
 iicnr «as possible to tlie j-ite t)f a new town, near a gool 
 liarboiir, or on a good river, wliere trade would be 
 likely to be aetively carried on ; and having a taste Ibi 
 beauty in scenery; and delighting, as well as all my 
 family, in the sea, I would, if practicable, like to htivc 
 with aj)proximation to the sea, beauty in scenerj% a 
 place having a constant supply of fresh water, well 
 wooded, lying well to the south asj^ect, with land of 
 Uood quality, having shelter from any prevailing winds, 
 free of marsh or swamp, having a limestone or other 
 quarry upon it, wherebj' building materials could easily 
 be got ; but there are many, many other advantages 
 which you might see, which would outbalance any 
 ideas or suggestions of mine, such as a coal mine, a 
 good mill site with good water power, which in a 
 new coiuitr}' is not a bad speculation ; building groimd 
 or the probable site of a ship's quay, or a locality 
 where a town is hkely to spring up. . . My fortune 
 would be made in a short tune, &c. 
 
 " I have, &c. 
 
 (; « 
 
 * " 
 
 The writer will not be angry with me, I am sure, for 
 publishing a ])ortion of a letter Avhich alToi'ds no clue 
 to his identity; particularly as, knowing him to be 
 both talented and deserving, in doing so I express a 
 sincere wish that he may become possessed of the quay 
 and the coal mine too. 
 
 I shall here take the liberty of addressing a few 
 remarks U) the difierent classes of persons likely to 
 contemplate emigration. 
 
 First, persons seeking government offices, and whose 
 names are written down on lists, are very numerous in 
 the colony. The stdaries aie generally hiadequately 
 
 >^,I.Hi—. 
 
 _ ffy ' ■■■ • -. 
 
PROFESSION. 
 
 137 
 
 goo 'I 
 
 Id hv 
 
 to ioi 
 
 1 my 
 
 hdve 
 
 well 
 k1 of 
 ^iiids, 
 DtJier 
 
 low. With such an object in view, I would recom- 
 mend any one not to emigrate until he had first 
 procured an appointment to whatever office he might 
 be in quest of. 
 
 All the professio:is are overstocked ; tliis, of course, 
 includes the bar, the church, engineers and surveyors, 
 &c. Private tutors, governesses, and anybody that 
 can teach any thing would do remarkably well in the 
 country. 
 
 I am not aware of there being any ladies' school in 
 the island, — a wr/it much felt. 
 
 Artists are seldom met with. It seems strange that 
 it does not occur to some enterprising publisher in 
 England, to commission an artist, so as to reproduce in 
 iMigland some of the majestic views of the comitry. 
 Those published by Dickenson and Co., jS"ew I'ond 
 Street, and one of Victoria, by Day and Son*, all which 
 are very true and characteristic, are the only views I 
 have seen. If it pays newspapers to depute special 
 correspondents, seedsmen to employ collectors, t&c, 
 why sliould not art pay also ? Let us hope that some 
 of the talent so assiduously expended on the Cam and 
 Isis may yet find a })roiitable vent abroad, liichmond 
 is very beautiful, but rather confined and flat : it only 
 wants the cascades in the foreground, and jMount Uood 
 or Mount Browne izhtterini' in the distance, to make 
 a picture c^i it. 
 
 To caiMtahsts these colonies oiler the greatest induce- 
 ments. As a rule, the newer the colony the higher is 
 the rate of interest, and the more numerous the oi)cn- 
 ings for investment. For instance, a good brewery 
 would succeed well, judging by the immense consump- 
 
 I 
 
 * Liiliogmplicrs tu the '.^ucc-n, Gatu Street, Liucohrs Lin. 
 
»38 
 
 FARMERS. 
 
 Mi 
 
 lion of bottled ale and stout in the colony. Hops 
 thrive remarkably well. Many of the productions of 
 tlie country might be traded in "with advantage ; such 
 as timber, salmon pickling, oils, bear's grease, large 
 quills, hemp, poipoise leather, deer horns, skins, &c. 
 
 Money in Vancouver Island can be lent on good 
 security, at rates ranging I'rom 25 to 30 per cent, 
 per annum ; and the opportunities for investment 
 are so varied, and the field so inunense, that I . lould 
 altogether exceed limits allotted in attempting to 
 &])ecify. 
 
 Tlie admirable openings that exist for farmers with 
 fniiiU capital hi Vancouver Island and in British Co- 
 huubia, will ;ippcar evident from a perusal of the 
 foregoing pages. 
 
 Assisted by every circumstance which at home 
 would be an encumbrance or an impediment, with a 
 market close at hand, and high prices ft)r every thing 
 he can ])roduce, the farmer's prospects are extrc^mely 
 ])romisiiig ; find, in consequence of the de.irness of 
 labour in e/ery department, the larger his family the 
 wealthier he is. There is nothing to deter a farmer 
 in the fact tiiat the extent of |)rairie land is small com- 
 pared with that occuj)ied by forest, lake, and mountain. 
 At the present time there is abundance of open land in 
 both colonies not taken up. If there is a ]ire[)onderance 
 of timbei'ed and waste land, compared with land ready 
 for the plough, Ihis condition nnist make the latter all 
 the more valuable, as i)opulation, and with it the 
 (U'mand for land, iiicrea;-es. So tliat, regarded in a 
 self-interested light only, the less the good land the 
 better for the fanner, jnovided he loses no time in 
 taking advantage of the very liberal land regulations 
 recently adopted ; otherwise, eveiy season of postpone- 
 
 I iiiMMni I III T'lir"" 
 
 ', j^tfraiwiraji 
 
 idiw^' 
 
 ^ (^^PF^'^^'^T^ 
 
 SBS3I 
 
RATES 01' [.ABOL'R. 
 
 130 
 
 arge 
 
 rood 
 lent 
 lent 
 )u]d 
 to 
 
 iiit'iit must inevitiil)ly, on liis arrival, push him farther 
 IVom thu chief towns and settlements. 
 
 As the rates of hibour arc of course regulated by 
 those of San Francisco, the annexed schedule, taken 
 fi-om the Mercantile Gazette, San^ Francisco, Jan. 4th, 
 1800, is here appended. 
 
 I 
 
 RATES OF LABOUR IN SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 II 
 II 
 II 
 II 
 II 
 11 
 
 II 
 II 
 
 II 
 II 
 
 II 
 
 40 
 50 
 40 
 
 no 
 
 GO 
 .'Jj 
 35 
 35 
 4 
 
 IJlacksniiths, per diem 
 
 Do. helpers, 
 liniss Ibundcrs, 
 Uoiler makers, 
 Hoat Ixiiklcrs, 
 Ballast men, 
 llricklayers, 
 liuukbinders, 
 
 Do. Folders, 
 Brickmakers, per month 
 T'rickburncrs, 
 IJakors, 
 
 ({arl)ovs, „ 
 
 iiiitcliers, „ 
 
 i'licescmakcrs, „ 
 Choppers, „ 
 
 Joaehmen, „ 
 
 Coppcrsmitlis, per diem 
 Carpenters, 
 
 Do. Siiip, 
 Caulkers, 
 Carriii;.;c makers, 
 \)opcrs, „ 
 
 Ourtmcn, „ 
 
 •Jhaser8, „ 
 
 Cooks. per month 
 Coal-heavers ' „ 
 ChamlHirmaids, „ 
 Day labourers, pordicm 
 Deck hands, (riv. nav.) 
 per moK.h, . 
 Draymen, „ 
 
 Engineers, „ 
 
 Polishers, per diem . 
 
 Freestone cutters, „ 
 Firemen, per month 
 Gardeners, „ 
 Granite dressers, per iliem 2 
 Hodmen, „ . 2 
 
 Hatters, per week, . 25 
 Harness makers, per diem 2 
 Hostlers, per month . 30 
 Jewellers, per diem . 5 
 T-ocksmitli6, „ 4 
 
 liimeburuei's, per mouth . 40 
 
 Uullars. 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 G 
 
 3 
 
 75 
 
 75 
 
 75 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 75 
 
 <)0 
 
 50 
 
 2.1 to 
 
 3' 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 2i 
 
 3.1 
 o 
 
 4^ 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 0'. 
 
 21 
 7" 
 35 
 
 25 
 •> 
 
 40 
 
 50 
 
 75 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 50 
 35 
 
 i) 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 3?. 
 
 31 
 10' 
 80 
 75 
 30 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 7.T 
 
 150 
 3 
 
 CO 
 
 GO 
 31 
 3" 
 
 40 
 4 
 
 .">0 
 
 5(> 
 
 II 
 II 
 
 35 
 5 
 3.1 
 3i 
 
 a 
 
 3.1 
 
 4' 
 
 4 
 30 
 35 
 
 30 
 
 Lnj)idaries, per diem 
 Lumbermen, per month 
 Millwrights, per diem 
 Metal turners, 
 Machinists, 
 Moulders, 
 Marble cutters and polishers 
 per diem, . 2 
 cullers, „ . 4 
 
 Mattress makers „ . 5 
 
 M.Uesof vessels, pcrmonth '.0 
 Mill sawyers and planers, 
 
 per month . 50 
 Plumbers per diem 
 Pump makers, „ 
 Pile drivers „ 
 Painters, house, „ 
 
 Do. sign, gold, per ft. 
 
 Do. do. plain, „ 
 Pilots, per month 
 
 I'orters, „ 
 
 Printers, per 1000 ems . 
 Riggers, jier diem . 4 
 Shipsmiths, „ . 4 
 
 Do. helpers, „ . 2 
 
 Sailmakcrs, „ . 5 
 
 Stevedors, „ . 4 
 
 Stonemasons, „ . 4 
 
 Shoemakers, „ . 2 
 
 Stewards, per month . 40 
 Seamen, „ . 30 
 
 Seamen, coastwise, do. . 25 
 Shoemakers, per month . 
 Si rvaiit girls, „ . 20 
 
 'r in- workers, p«r diem . 4 
 Tin- roofers „ . 3 
 
 Tanners and Curriers, per 
 month . 40 
 Tailors, per diem 
 I'pholsterers „ 
 Wood>-a\vy«jrs, „ 
 Whi'ilwriglits, „ 
 Wateliuiakers, „ 
 Waiters, yr mouth 
 
 illnrs. 
 
 to 8 
 
 50 
 
 7 
 
 41 
 4^ 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 'J I 
 
 -a 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 25 
 
 G 
 5 
 
 60c 
 
 45e 
 1.50 
 100 
 
 75c 
 5 
 5 
 4 
 G 
 5 
 5 
 3 
 
 80 
 
 30 
 80 
 35 
 
 75 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
140 
 
 DOMESTIC SERVANTS. 
 
 -'• 
 
 :! . 
 
 i' 
 
 I presume labour is dearer on tlie north-west racific 
 coast than nnywliere else ; referring to some statistical 
 papers, I notice that -while for several years past the 
 general rate of increase of population on the coast has 
 been something like G per cent, per annum (not 20 
 per cent., as stated by the editor of the New York 
 Ifendd), the wages of labour have fallen in the same 
 porportion, so that from year to year the variation in 
 this respect is not remarkable, which to workmen pro- 
 pi »sing to eniiui'ate is a very important consideration. 
 It will be noticed that, fn^m this schedule, i'arni servants 
 are omitted ; the reasons for this is, that as a class they 
 can scarcely be said to exist. Shei)lK!rds, ploughuien, 
 gardeners, ostlers, c^c, command the highest rjiles of 
 skilled lab(Hn\ The miners seldom turn their attention 
 to tliese pursuits, for engaging in which, want of early 
 training, wandering habits, and a speculative turn of 
 mind unfit them. 
 
 But perhaps the greatest want of all is felt in the 
 absence of fe'Uiale servants. Colonists have ceased to 
 endeavour to remedy the defect, by importing them, as, 
 whether they possess personal attractions or not, they are 
 certain to get married soon after their arrival. It is 
 much to be regretted that as yet none of those [)rincely, 
 benevolent, energetic individuals, who arc more fre- 
 quently met with in England than anywhere else, have 
 taken the matter up, or endeavoured to eflect for the 
 surplus female i)opidation of England, and for the distant 
 colony, what was done at New South Wales by Mrs. 
 Caroline Chisholm, whose courage, i)erseverance, and 
 success in conducting a great enterprise of this kind, 
 will be referred to with afTcction and with pride by 
 future generations of the colony she so signally assisted 
 to plant. 
 
 ac 
 
 MMMHtMl 
 
 iai 
 
GOLD HUNTERS. 
 
 141 
 
 the 
 t has 
 §t 20 
 
 aino 
 >n in 
 
 )VO- 
 lOIl. 
 
 (Mts 
 icy 
 
 Persons wlio iindorstaiul a trade, such as saddlers, 
 shoemakers, tailors, and watclimakers, &c., with eaj/ital 
 enoiijjjli to start a shop, and make themselves known, 
 would be certain to succeed. 
 
 Persons desirous to try gold digging will find all the 
 reliable statistical information on the subject, procurable 
 in the Chapter on Minerals, and will there find that to suc- 
 ceed at it, a man must be strong, ;uid capable of encoun- 
 tering fatigue and even hardship with patient endurance. 
 In fact, it is a sort of labour that our " navvies " would 
 succeed in, and have succeeded in, to perfection. For 
 example, " liendigo " and his companions have, by their 
 excavations near Kallarat, written their names on the 
 sands and in the maps, in a veiy indelible way. 
 
 I am the more particular to mention this, beeau.-c 1 
 have met witli many young men, who, not ac(|uainti'(l 
 with the practical processes of gold mining, form ro- 
 mantic ideas about what is in reality very hard work. 
 To such, I should suggest, get lldrpcrs M(«j<i:uu\ of 
 April last*; it coritains a practical account of the 
 various jn'ocesses resorted ti^, aii 1 wo(xlcut illusti-ations 
 of implements used ui mining ; construct a " rocker," tiie 
 materials of which will not cost many shillings. Place 
 the rocker under tlic i)um[), and lill the box that is on 
 the top with gravel. Now, recollecting that a few luiH- 
 pence worth of gold to a (milk) i)an of gravel pays the 
 miner 21 a day, file three-pennpvorth from a lialf- 
 sovereign into the box ; rock away with one hand and 
 pump with the other, only stopping to shovel gravel 
 into the box, as often as you emj)ty it; in this way you 
 will be able not only to acquire a good idea of the 
 amount of physical exertion required, but also to test 
 
 :l! 
 
 * 1800. 
 
14J 
 
 ALIKXS. 
 
 your skill in tho ;irt, Ix'torc you lifivc orcasic^u to prac- 
 tise it many thousand niik's from lionu'. IJy attentively 
 readinuf the article in question, you will also see that 
 the art of '* prospecting''," on which so nuieh (lej)en(ls, 
 can be learned (juite as well at the duck-pond in the 
 garden, as on the banks of the Fraser or Saskatchewan. 
 And if, after countin<x the cost, you still determine to 
 trj' yoin* fortune, I should say the surface di^'ixiiiLjs oi" 
 British Columbia, or the goKl deposited from disinte- 
 gration that h.is been going on for ages past, are as yet 
 unexhausted. I3e early in the field, and may success 
 attend your adventure ! 
 
 The steps that have been taken to facilitate the pur- 
 chase of lands by aliens will be found in the Appentlix. 
 
 '?!:J 
 
 j-jmuju... 
 
 SHW" 
 
 »;sm. 
 
c 
 
 API'EXDIX. 
 
 To J. D. Pevibertnti, Esq. 
 
 Tort Kiip.-rt, July 9lli, 18<50. 
 Dr \R SiK, 
 
 I l)<.'g to I'onvanl a copy of my loiigli joiiiiiiil to Nootkn, and witli 
 it a chart *, iintinislu'd, hut pretty cdnvct, of the Koskiiin* Iiilrt, 
 Portage, and coast of Vancouver Island, as Ijir as Ninikisli IJiver. 
 Kegardiiig the o]>posite coast (the mainland), 1 liavf little to say; 
 grizzly licars are found there as far north as I^ynn's Canal (lat. ')'.•"); 
 but I heard of but one instanre of tlieir luing iiiund on \'aneouver 
 Island, namely, one shot last wintei' uj) the Ximpkisli Lake. He 
 had most probably found his way across from the mainland. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Hamilton' Mom at. 
 
 Journal of a Tour arrass Vtoirouvi'r hhiml to X<ictk(t Smtud via 
 Nlmki.<h River, in the year lbo2, hj Ilamiltoa Mojj'att, Hudsun's 
 Baij Compa"''s Service. 
 
 Thursday, Ji- ^ \st. — About 10 a.m. left tlio Fort for tlic Nimkish 
 village, en route to the Nootka tribe. Having an-ived at the Nim- 
 kish Kiver at 7 p.m., I procured guides and got everytliing in readi- 
 ness for an early start in the morning. 
 
 Friday, 2nd. — Letl the village at daybreak in a canoe witli six 
 Indians; at 9 a.m. reached the Nimkish li.shing village, on the 
 borders of the T'sllelth Lake ; entered the lake a])out 10 a.m. Tlie 
 shores on either side at tliis end rise perpendicular from tlie water's 
 edge to the height of some 1 JOO or 1000 feet, and from 4000 to 5000 
 feet a little inland, and in many places capped vith snow; the 
 width of the Lake at the entrance is about half a mile, gi-adually 
 
 * Seo M.np, No. I. 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 IL25 i 1.4 
 
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 •7] 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
 «f; 
 
 
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 <^ 
 
 
 m 
 
 

144 
 
 APPEXDIX. 
 
 widening to one and a half niiler^ ; I endeavoured to ascertain the 
 depth with a forty fathom line, but did not succeed. Our course 
 through the lake was about south-east, and the length I have since 
 ascertained to bo fully twenty-five miles. In the evening we en- 
 camped at the River Oakseey, distant about a nille from the head. 
 Discovered a tree resembling the walnut, having a trunk about 
 four and a half feet in circumference, and emitting a fine perfume. 
 
 Satti?'dai/, 3rd. — After passing a most unpleasant night, on account 
 of the rain which poured down in torrents the whole time and until 
 10 A.M., we again embarked in our frail craft for the ascent of the 
 River Oakseey ; stopped for a short time at the mouth to examine a 
 large beaver's dam, the finest I have yet seen. The whole of this 
 day was spent in wox'king up tlie rapids, of which the river is one 
 continuation ; encamped in the evening at Waakash, the half way 
 hoiise to the second lake, a distance of twelve miles. The banks of the 
 river are rather low, and abounding in splendid red pine and maple 
 of all sizes, but not the slightest vestige of cleared land to be seen. 
 The country a short distance inland from the river is very high. 
 
 S inula)/, 4th. — Left encampment about 4 a.m. for another of the 
 Nimkisli fishing villages, at which we arrived at noon, where we 
 landed to obtain a supply of fresh salmon, but were only able to 
 procure three and a few trout, as it was rather early for the fish to 
 be up the river. The river at this place branches ofl^ in two diflTercnt 
 directions; the distance from Waakash to this place is about seven or 
 eight miles, and the river, as yesterday, nothing but rapids. We re- 
 mained only a short time here, and started for the Lake Kanus, 
 distant about six miles. The Indians having told me that this part 
 of the river was very shallow, and that the country through which 
 we had to pass to the lake pretty open, I started on foot with a 
 portion of my crcAv, and arrived at the lake after a veiy pleasant 
 walk ; the country through which I passed was clear, with occa- 
 sional belts of wood and brush, and abounding in partridges, of 
 which I shot a good many. I also noticed a pond of cold spring 
 water, of great depth, without an outlet, similar to what are at home 
 called blow-wells. 
 
 During my walk I was informed of a tribe of Indians living 
 inland, having no canoes or connection with the sea-coast whatever. 
 I have since learned that these people sometimes descend some of 
 the rivers for the pm-pose of trade with the Indians south of Nootka, 
 and they offered to guide me to the place at any time I shoiild wish ; 
 the name of the tribe is Siia Kiialituck ; they number about fifty or 
 sixty men, and were only discovered a few years back, by one of 
 the Nimkish chiefs while on a trapping expedition. The ibllowing 
 is the Indians' stoiy of their discovery : — 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 145 
 
 Our party while sitting round the fire on the banks of a small 
 rivulet, observed a beaver playing in the water, and having followed 
 the course of the stream in hopes of falling in with a dam, came 
 suddenly upon a lake, and the first thing which struck our attention 
 was a small village situated at the opposite side. Upon entering the 
 camp we were well received by the Indians, and opened a trade for 
 skins, of which they had an abundance, and which they used for 
 clothing. They informed ns, that southern Indians (as we supposed 
 the Sanetch) had been there on war parties, and killed a good num- 
 ber of them. This tribe are known to the Nootkas, who have a 
 superstitious idea that they are the spirits of their dead, on account 
 of their speaking the same language. From the time the Nimkish 
 say it takes to perform the journey, and fi-om the Sanetch (or more 
 probably the Comox) having knowledge of these people, I have not 
 the least doubt that a road might with little difliculty be discovered 
 fi:om here to Victoria, through the very centre of the island. 
 
 After passing through this lake, which is probably ten miles long, 
 we encamped at the base of a snow-capped mountain, two very fini^ 
 cascades falling several hundred feet from its summit ; and the streams 
 which they form abound in trout of excellent quality and great size, 
 numbers of which we caught. 
 
 Monday, 6th. — Early this morning I started, accompanied by an 
 Indian, for the summit of this mountain, Avhich I named Ben Lomond, 
 but did not succeed in reaching any further than the second tier of 
 snow, on account of the ascent being so steep ; so having been disap- 
 pointed in my walk, I returned to the camp at 9 A. M., and set out 
 for the walk across the portage (which was a succession of mountain 
 defiles), to the head waters of the Nootka River. This river, during 
 its course of three or four miles from its source, disappears three 
 diflferent times. Stopped about noon to dine, and after half an hour's 
 rest recommenced our journey, and arrived in Noctka Sound at 
 7 P.M., after passing over sixteen or eighteen miles. I have not, 
 however, reached my destination for the night yet, the Indians 
 wishing to encamp fiu'ther down the sound, on account of some 
 superstitious fear of ghosts. Stopped for a short time at the fishing 
 village, where I saw the Avheel of a ship. The Indian houses here 
 are very large, in fact more so than those of the Indians near Fort 
 Rupert. 
 
 Tuesday, Gth. — Having passed a very comfortable night under 
 cover of a large quantity of salmon fi-ames, we started early for the 
 Nootka village in Friendly Cove, passing through a long inlet that 
 runs about soiith-east, surrounded by lofty mountains covered to the 
 very top Avith timber, but of stunted growtli. We arri'.ed at our desti- 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 nation at 4 p. m., having occupied five, days on our journey from the 
 Nimkish village. 
 
 Upon entering Friendly Cove we were received by a discharge of 
 cannon from the cliief s house ; until we were about to land scarcely 
 an Indian was to be seen, but at a given signal the whole tribe 
 darted from their houses and commenced a grand dance in honour of 
 the arrival of a white man to visit them, after which a sea otter was 
 presented to me by the chief, and we landed amid the welcome 
 shouts of the Nootkas. In the evening a grand fancy dress ball was 
 given, and a large quantity of blankets and other property distri- 
 buted. 
 
 Wednesday, 7th. — ^Nothing strange or new ; time mostly spent in 
 feasting and smoking in the houses of the different chiefs, all of 
 whom seemed to be on the highest terms of friendship. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 The timber in the interior of the island is very fine, in fact the 
 banks on both sides of the Nimkish river, from the first lake almost 
 to the Nootka inlet, are lined with splendid red pines, large and long 
 enough for the spars of the largest men of war ; the water communi- 
 cation is also a great consideration ; spars could be squared, rolled 
 into the water, and floated down withoiit difliculty to any depot, such 
 as the anchorage at lUece or even Beaver Cove. Other timber is 
 also abundant. 
 
 The various kinds of rock along the bed of the river, as far as I 
 could see, were granite, sandstone, conglomerate, and hari!. dark 
 boulders. 
 
 The various berries of the country grew in great abundance, witli 
 the exception of the small dark berry resembling a beaver shot ; I 
 am unacquainted with the name ; it is plentifiil down south and at 
 Comox. Salmon of various kinds, of splendid quality, are found in 
 abundance on the coast, as well as halibut and other sea fish. 
 
 Rock oysters of large size I procured to the north of Nootka, some 
 fifty miles, but saw few other shell-fish, except the large sea 
 mussel and the barnacle. Crabs and sea egg were plentifiil, also 
 the sea cucumber, and the various species of star-fish and sea 
 anemones. 
 
 The zoology is the same as the other parts of Vancouver Island, 
 except that the purple marmot is occasionally found at Koskimo, but 
 not the common grey marmot. The white land otters which have at 
 various times been forwarded fi'om here, were killed near Kio- 
 quettuck. 
 
 The Indians from Nootka to Newittee number probably about 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 147 
 
 1500 men. The depth of the Nimkish Lake I have since sounded, 
 and got no bottom at seventy-five fathoms, from the stern of a canoe, 
 her bow being agroTind on shore. 
 
 EXCURSION FROM QUALLCHUM (lAT. 49° 23')> viil LAKE HORN AND 
 ALBERNI CANAL, TO THE PACIFIC. 
 
 To His Excellency the Governor. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Victoria, Vancouver's Island, 
 
 December 15th, 1856. 
 
 I HAD the honour, in the middle of October last, to receive your 
 instructions to examine a part of the island from a point north of 
 Nanaimo to an mlet of the sea reached by Mr. ITome, and beg to 
 submit for your infonnation, and that of the Governor and Com- 
 mittee of the Hudson's Bay Company, the result of such observations 
 as I was able t/i make, together with a map on which they are laid 
 down. 
 
 Ad it was rather late in the season, I was not able to take many 
 observations, and the map must be regarded as a mere reconnais- 
 sance, which would, however, materially assist in any future survey, 
 the part about Barclay Sound being the least accurate. 
 
 The principal observations attempted being as follows ; and the 
 filling in is by compass and estimation. 
 
 A correction is made in the coast-line between Valdez Inlet and 
 point Leonardo. 
 
 The track from Quallchum to Home's Lake is principally through 
 burnt woods; soil gravelly. Home's Lake is probably 150 feet 
 above the sea; the summit level between Home's Late and head of 
 Alberni Canal is 800 to 900 feet above the sea ; the track tlirough 
 forest, soil gravelly, and indifferent. A better road might be cut a 
 little to the south of the lake : for a road from Nanaimo to the head 
 of the canal the country is not yet examined. A ridge of mountains 
 (some snow on them) occupying the middle of the island in the di- 
 rection of its length, but not unbroken, is shown on the map. 
 
 Alberni Canal. — Deep ; perfectly free fi-om rocks, or any impedi- 
 ment to navigation ; one mile wide ; hills 1500 to 1800 feet high 
 on both sides, covered with pines, and springing from the water's 
 edge ; small waterfalls from great heights frequent ; sandstone mot 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 I 
 
 
 with at the head of the canal, and occasionally in the rivers ; pine 
 tops on the hills bent from the south-west. 
 
 Barchiij Sound* ^ when properly examined and surveyed, will, I 
 should think, be found capable of affording admirable shelter to 
 vessels of any class. The coast between Barclay Sound and Point 
 Bonilla is dangerous (sunken rocks and heavy seas when wind is 
 westerly). 
 
 Head of Canal to Opochesath. — River broad (say eighty yards) and 
 shallow. River to central lake exceedingly rapid — several water- 
 falls, forty or fifty yards wide — and contains two or three times as 
 much water as the Nanaimo River does at the same time of year ; 
 quantities of white cedar on the banks : the scenery about Opoche- 
 sath and head of the inlet is often very beautiful ; but there is no 
 great extent of valuable or open land. 
 
 Central Lake is surrounded by mountains, covered with pines. 
 Ice said to be very thick on it in the winter ; length not ascertained ; 
 after ten miles no bottom at 100 fathoms. Occasional soundings at 
 low- water in fathoms, in the canal and lakes, are marked on the 
 map. Fish (trout excepted) and game of all kinds are scarce in the 
 interior in winter time. Salmon is found in great abundance in the 
 canal arid in the stream falling into it ; halibut also ; and elk and 
 deer are plenty on the coast, even near the Indian villages. 
 
 Timber. — In the immediate neighbourhood of Barclay Sound, the 
 land is low and rocky, or swampy, and timber indifferent. Some of 
 the valleys extending from the canal contain fine timber, and in the 
 neighbourhood of Opochesath spars of large size. "Woods oftenest 
 met with are, P. Menzies, P. Inops (Hooker), P. Douglasii, hem- 
 lock spruce, Weymouth pine, white cedar, and arbutus. 
 
 The precautions you were good enough to suggest with regard to 
 the Indians on the sea-board, who are numerous, were quite neces- 
 sary, and by availing myself of your better judgment and gi-eater 
 experience in those matters, I had no diflSculty with them. Your 
 opinion that no confidence is to be placed in them is quite con-ect. 
 
 I have, &c. 
 
 J. Despard Pembeuton. 
 
 * Wjii subsequently visited by Captain Prevost of H.M.S.S. "Satellite," 
 whose opinion of the entrance to Barclay Sound was unfavourable. When 
 there, I looked for Port Effingham, so highly spoken of by Mears, and confess 
 I could not find it. Mears' map of the sound bears but little resemblance to 
 the original. 
 
 ^m. 
 
ArrENDix. 
 
 140 
 
 FllOM COWICIIAN IIARBOUU TO NITINAT. 
 
 To Hits Excelknci/ the Governor. 
 
 Victoria, Nov. llUli, 1857. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Early in September last I was honoured by your instructions to 
 examine and report upon the country between Cowichan Harbour 
 and Nitinat of the Indians (not the Nitinat usually marked on maps 
 of Vancouver's Island in Barclay Sound). 
 
 The party consisting of myself, Lieutenant Gooch, of H. M. S. 
 Satellite, who joined as an amateur, but was afterwards of mucli 
 service in every emergency ; two marines, and two seamen, selected 
 from the Satellite by Captain Prevost-, two men of the Surveying 
 Department; and Antoine an Iroquois hunter, — nine men in all; 
 taking with them ten or twelve days' provision, which with their 
 arms and ammunition was as much as they could carry ; left Cow- 
 ichan Harbour on the 4th of September, and reached the Nitinat 
 camp, on the west coast, safely on the 19th of the same month. 
 
 I might have given more time to the examination of this exceed- 
 ingly interesting section of country, but from the unavoidable 
 scarcity of hunters in our party, it was necessary to reach the coast 
 when we did. Game, consisting of elk, black bears, deer and grouse 
 are to be found on the route, as well as fish in the rivers and lakes, 
 but for the reason mentioned our party killed nothing of much use 
 on the way, except one deer and one bear, another badly wounded 
 by Antoine having got away. 
 
 The principal instruments and chronometer I carried myself, but 
 as the country is heavily timbered, after passing Mount Prevost, and 
 the flillen trees slippery to walk on, occasional falls was a thing 
 unavoidable, which so damaged the instruments that I regret to say 
 the observations, though taken with the utmost care, proved useless, 
 and the map annexed a compass sketch. 
 
 The valuable tract of country extending from the sea to Mount 
 Prevost and the Somenos village, you have yourself examined, and 
 will therefore not require a description of from me. After passmg 
 the Somenos Plains the Cowichan River becomes more rapid, and 
 the country covered with pines of different kinds; between the 
 Somenos Plains and the large lake, several tracts of country ehgible 
 for settlement will be found, but they will require to be cleared. 
 The situations alluded to will have all the advantages of a fertile 
 Hoil, good water, game and fish, variety of tiuiber, the appearance 
 
 I, 3 
 
 »..uj,~dBa»-- 
 
150 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 of the surrounding country being generally pretty and cheerful, often 
 grand. The same remarks will apply to the land in many places 
 bordering upon the large lake. 
 
 In the valleys, Douglas pines, twenty-three feet to twenty- eight 
 feet in circumference, are not uncommon. Indians occasionally hunt 
 and fish on the border of the large lake, and the stumps of huge 
 cedars, cut down at its western extremity, show that they once 
 manufactured their largest canoes there. We met no Indians between 
 Somenos village and South River, In rounding Mount Gooch we 
 passed throiigh a forest of hemlock-spruce, larger than any I had 
 seen before, often eight or nine feet in diameter. 
 
 South River contains a large body of water, has several falls, a 
 considerable quantity of flat land on its banks, particularly on the 
 right bank ; pine-trees (P. Menzies) six feet to nine feet diameter, 
 of con-esponding height, standing at regular intervals ; the under- 
 growth of raspberries, ferns, &c. being exceedingly thick. The 
 banks of Nitinat Inlet are rocky on the west side, and mountainous 
 on the east. Off the entrance, which in one place does not look 
 more than one hundred feet wide, there appears to be a bar. I 
 was not able to take soundings. 
 
 The tide rushing out through this narrov entrance with great 
 velocity, and meeting the tide coming in, makes a whirlpool, which 
 has a very remarkable appearance. Perhaps at high water a vessel 
 of large size could be floated in, as the water then is still. 
 
 Gold-bearing rocks are met with in the mountains, sandstone is 
 frequently found in the beds of the rivers ; the coast about Nitinat 
 is formed of sandstone, and small seams of coal are occasionally 
 met with in it ; in the inlet I noticed one large cliff of bluish pri- 
 mitive limestone. 
 
 Trusting that the circumstances mentioned in the earlier part of 
 this report will somewhat excuse its incompleteness. 
 
 I have, &c. 
 
 J. Despard Pemberton. 
 
 Ill 
 
 EXTRACT FROM JOURNAL OP CAPTAIN VANCOUVER. 
 
 " Fetched five miles to the S. E. of the breakers, into the entrance 
 of an opening that had the appearance of admitting us a considerable 
 way up, though in the Spanish charts this inlet is not noticed. 
 " In this neighbourhood there is a greater extent of low country 
 
Ari'E.N'DlX. 
 
 151 
 
 than about Nootka or Chiyoquot ; it produces forest trees of many 
 sorts and of considerable size ; and, on e-:amination, there might 
 probably be found a more eligible situation for an establishment 
 than at either of those places." 
 
 This place ought, if only in compliment to the great navigator, 
 to be carefully examined. 
 
 a 
 
 of 
 
 FORT SIMPSON TO THE INTERIOB OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 Extract of a Letter from Mr. William Downie, giving an account of 
 his Journey from Victoria to Queen Charlotte's Island, and thence 
 by Fort Simpson to Fort St. James, Stuart Lake. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Stuart's Lake, Oct. 10th, 1859. 
 
 I beg to make the following report of my trip to Queen Charlotte's 
 Island, and my journey thence by Fort Simpson to the interior of 
 British Columbia. 
 
 I left Fort Simpson for the Skeena river on the 5th of August. 
 From Fort Simpson to Port Essington is about forty miles. The 
 salt water here appears a light blue colour, and runs inland about 
 thirty miles ; the coarse grained quartz of Fort Simpson is no longer 
 seen here ; granite appears. The banks of the river are low, with 
 small hard wood, and cotton-trees on its margin, with some good- 
 sized white oaks, the finest I have seen west of Fraser River. 
 
 Vessels drawing more than four feet of water cannot go more 
 than twenty miles up the Skeena river, and it is very unlike the 
 deep inlets to the southward. At our camp here some Indians 
 visited us ; they told us they were honest, but in the morning the 
 absence of my coat rather negatived their statement. Next day we 
 found the river shoal even for loaded canoes, as it had fallen much. 
 I went up a sm^ll river at our next camp, called Scenatoys, and the 
 Indians showed me some crystallised quartz, and to my surprise a 
 small piece with gold in it, being the first I have seen in this part. 
 The Indian took me to a granite slide, whence he asserted the piece 
 of quartz in question had come from ; I found some thin crusts of 
 fine quartz, but nothing like a rich vein. Ten miles further I 
 found more fine grained quartz, but no gold. I am of opinion, how- 
 ever, that good paying quartz will be found here. 
 
 From the small river just mentioned at the mouth of the Skeena 
 or Port Essington, it is seventy-five miles ; a little below it, an Indian 
 trail leads to Fort Simpson ; it is through a low pass, and the distance 
 is not great. 
 
 I. 4 
 
\5'2 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 1 
 
 i ! 
 
 1 1; 
 
 From this, ten miles further up, in a small river called the Foes, 
 on the south side ; hence is an Indian trail to Kitloops, on the 
 Salmon River. The south branch of Salmon Kiver is called Kit- 
 tama. 
 
 By this firne Ave were fairly over the coast range of mountains, and 
 those ahead of us did not look very high. The current here was 
 strong, and much labour required to get the canoe along, and we 
 had to pull her up by a rope from the shore. 
 
 Gold is found here, a few specks to the pan, and the whole 
 country looks like a gold country with fine bars and flats, and clay 
 on the bars. Tlie moxmtains look red, and slate and quartz can be 
 seen. 
 
 Our next camp was at the village of Kitthalaska ; -and I started 
 in a light canoe ahead of my party, as our canoe, by all accounts, 
 could not get much further ; I then determined to penetrate to Fort 
 Fraser (supposed to mean establishment of 11. B. Company). 
 
 The Indian who was with me informed me that a large stream 
 called the Kitchumsala comes in frop-. the north, the land on it is 
 good, and well adapted for flirming; the Indians grow plenty of 
 potatoes here. To the south a small stream, called the Chimkootsh, 
 enters, on the south-west of which is the Plumbago Mountain ; I 
 had some of it in my hand ; it is as clear as polished silver, and runs 
 in veins of quartz. Near this are the words " Pioneer H. B. C." on 
 a tree nearly overgrown with the bark. The Indian told me this 
 was cut by Mr. John "Work, a long time ago. From here to the 
 village of Kitcoonsa the land improves, the moimtains recede from 
 the river, and fine flats run away four or five miles back to the 
 mountain sides, where the smoke is seen rising from the Indian huts; 
 they are occupied in picking and drying berries for the winter. 
 The Indians here were very kind to me, and wished me to build a 
 house and live with them. 
 
 Above the village of Kitcoonsa the prospect of gold is less ; below 
 it, a man could make a dollar a day. As the season was so ad- 
 vanced I was not able to prospect the hills which look so well about 
 here, and unless the Government take it in hand it will be a long 
 time before the mineral resources of this part of British Colxunbia 
 are known. I think this is the best looking mineral country I have 
 seen in British Columbia. 
 
 From here to the village of Kitsogatala the river is rocky and 
 dangerous, and our canoe was split from stem to stem. 
 
 Here we enter an extensive coal country, the seams being cut 
 through by the river, and running up the banks on both sides, vary- 
 ing in thickness from three to thirty-five feet. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 15a 
 
 ^he veins jvre largest on the north-east side, and sandstone 
 appears ; it is soft, and gives easily to the pick. 
 
 'xxiQ veins dip into the bank for a mile in length, and could \)C 
 easily worked on the face by tunnels, and also by sinking shafts at 
 the rear on the flats, as they run into banks of soft earth. I have 
 Been no coal like this in all my travels in British Columbia or Van- 
 couver Island. Here we had some danger from Indiana, but a small 
 present of tobacco, and putting aside all fear, or even appearance of 
 it, succeeded in quieting them. I find it best to be cool and deter- 
 mined in the prospect of a fight. 
 
 The land around Naas Glee is first rate, and wild hay and long 
 grass abounds. Potatoes are not grown here. There is no heavy 
 pine timber in the neighbourhood, and the canoes are made of 
 cotton wood. 
 
 Our course from Naas Glee to Fort Killamaurs, was N.E, and the 
 distance about fifty miles. The land is good the whole way, with 
 long grass on the benches near Fort Killamaurs. This is a very 
 lovely place, and no sound to be heard save one, — our voice. It 
 seems a great pity to see this beautiful land, so well adapted for the 
 wants of man, laying waste, when so many Englishmen and Scotch- 
 men would be glad to come here and till the soil. Babine Lake is 
 deep, and in some places five or six miles wide ; there are islands 
 and points of land to afford shelter from the stonn, wherever the 
 wind blows from. 
 
 At the head of Babine Lake there is a fine site for a town, and 
 a good harbour could be made. A stream runs down here which 
 would supply water for the town. This is what I call the head 
 waters of Skeena River. There is plenty of water in the lake for 
 steamers, and it is a hundred miles in length. From here to Stuart's 
 Lake there is a portage over a good trail, and through the finest 
 grove of cotton wood I have ever seen, to Stuart's Lake ; the ground 
 was thickly strewed with golden leaves, giving the scene an autumnal 
 appearanc3, altogether different to what we expected to find in 
 
 British Columbia.* 
 
 William Downie. 
 
 To Hia Excellency, Govebnob Douglas, C. B., &c. &c. 
 
 * The harbour of Fort Simpson is a very safe, though not a perfect, harbour; 
 the anchorage is good. It is apparently exposed to the west and south-west, 
 but it is protected from the swell by a reef, covered at high water and exposed 
 at half tide. This harbour may be by and by of importance, especially int 
 shaU be found necessary to open a road into the northern part of British Co- 
 lumbia, direct from the coast.— J. D. P. 
 
«im 
 
 IM 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ► 
 
 •A., 
 
 i ii 
 
 I 
 
 DOUBLING CAPE HORN. 
 
 For the information of persona intending to emigrate by long sea, 
 who will naturally wish to know at what times and under what cir- 
 eumstances the voyage round the Horn is moat favourably made, the 
 following remarks, extracted from " Navigation of the Pacific," by 
 Captain A. B. Becher, R.N. F.R.A.S. &c. 1860, are here inserted: — 
 
 Doubling Cape Horn from the Atlantic. — Seamen who have 
 doubled Cape Horn have given different directions on some points 
 of the subject, but those will be adopted here which appear to b(5 
 the most trustworthy. But before pointing out the proper routes it 
 may be right to say a word or two on the most favourable season for 
 entering the Pacific from the eastward. 
 
 Captain J. W' ridel grounds his opinion on the experience of five 
 years in navigating these parts, and considers the months of March 
 and April pa the worst for doxibling Cape Horn. He says the diflfi- 
 cultics of doubling this cape may be greatly diminished by choosing 
 the proper season for it, and loss of time may be avoided as well as 
 injury to the ship. 
 
 In the beginning of November northerly winds set in and continue 
 till the middle of February, when they are succeeded by those from 
 S. W. During these months the westerly wind is not of long dura- 
 tion, and then the passage is easily made. From the 20th of Febru- 
 ary, or thereabouts, to the middle of May the winds generally vary 
 between S.W. and N.W., and are very strong. During this time, 
 therefore, a badly -found ship and one that is not tight should not 
 attempt the passage. But from the middle of May to the end of 
 June the prevailing winds are easterly, with fine weather ; and these 
 six weeks offer a good opportunity for doubling the cape, even in 
 sight of the island of Diego Ramirez. Then in July, August, Sep- 
 tember, and October the prevailing winds vary from S.W. to N.W., 
 and August and September are especially stormy months. 
 
 These remarks appear conclusive as to the best time for doubling 
 Cape Horn. 
 
 As to the route to be adopted when from the eastward, continues 
 Capt. Weddle, this gi'eatly depends on the time of being off the cape, 
 and on the strength of the westerly winds which prevail in these 
 latitudes. I prefer, under all circumstances, to pass west of the 
 Falkland Islands. In the summer the Strait of Lemaire may be 
 taken, as it shortens the passage by fifty or sixty miles ; and this may 
 be done without danger, provided we have daylight for clearing it, 
 admitting that at the southern end we meet with southerly w'n:l.;. 
 
 Cape Horn is about thirty-one leagues from Cape Good Success, 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 \55 
 
 witli Bamevelt iHlnnd between them. If deairous of anchoring near 
 Cone Horn the route S.b.W.^W. (compass) during the night will take 
 a sliip clear of the N.W. current, which sometimes sets among the 
 islands at the entrance of Nassau Strait. If not intending to anchor, 
 the most advantageous route after leaving the Strait of Lemaire 
 would be to make to the southward, passing south of the cape and 
 Diogo Ramirez at a distance of several miles. 
 
 In the summer, when working westward in the vicinity of the cape, 
 towards evening take care to be near the coast of Terra del Fuego, 
 because dtiring the night northerly winfls often come off the land and 
 veer west in the morning. This, however, depends in a great 
 measure on the seasons mentioned for passing Cape Horn. In fact, 
 during those months when the wind is most violent, as in March, 
 August, and September, the seaman should follow the directions 
 given by Anson and King, who recommend standing to the south as 
 far as G0°, where a smoother sea and more moderate and steadier 
 winds will be found. Nevertheless, when a ship is obliged to make 
 her passage along the coast, the places where she may anchor with 
 safety are Wigwam Bay, Port Maxwell, Indian Cove, New Year 
 Sound, and Clear Bottom Bay. 
 
 Such are generally the remarks of Captain Weddel. We will now 
 see what others say on doubling the cape. 
 
 As we have already observed. Captain King recommends a ship 
 from the Atlantic intending to double Cape Horn to run down the 
 coast of Patagonia at a hundred miles distance. Captain Fitz-Roy 
 does not agree in this opinion. I do not think, he says, that it would 
 be important for a large well-built vessel to keep near the east coast 
 of Patagonia. The sea, it is true, is smoother there, but the current 
 near the coast sets northward, with more strength than out at sea. 
 But, when in sight of the coast no ice is met, while further east it is 
 found even north of the parallel of 40" S. Instead of going to the 
 south as far as the parallel of 60° S., as Captain King says, I prefer 
 to work to the westward near Terra del Fuego, towards Nassau Bay. 
 In Orange Bay a ship may await a favoiu:able moment to make a long 
 board to the west. If disappointed of this, she may return to her 
 anchorage under Black Island in Euston Bay, or elsewhere, and 
 await a more favoiirable time. To make westing is the principal 
 object to be kept in view till we reach the meridian of 82° west. 
 We do not find ice near Terra del Fuego, but frequently meet with 
 it seaward from this island. In the route here pointed out near 
 Cape Horn and the land many dangers and injuries to the vessel will 
 be avoided by remaining quietly at anchor during the bad weather, 
 and profiting by any change of weather or wind to make westing. It 
 appears from this that Fitz-Roy prefers in all cases the route nearest 
 
 z-mriitminitiifi 
 
wmh> 
 
 156 
 
 AI'PENDI"'. 
 
 
 
 the land. Weddera opinion differs from his, for he advises this route 
 
 or 
 
 during summer, and the sea route down to the parallel of GO 
 thereabouts during winter. 
 
 Fitz-Roy's opinion is here supported by that of Cook, La Perouse, 
 and Krusenstem, as well as Capt. Beechey. I do not see, says this 
 officer, the necessity for going far south to double Cape Horn. One 
 thing I only recommend, namely, to adopt that tack on which most 
 westing is made without thinking of latitude further than to pass 
 twenty leagues south of this cape. With north-west winds I should 
 run south-west, and with south-west winds north-west, and iu case 
 neither board is favourable, I would stand to the southward, unless 
 I was in too high a latitude. The strongest winds are not found 
 near the coast, as is supposed; quite the contrary: and at thirty 
 miles from it, the sea breaks fi'om the inequality of the bottom. 
 There is, however, one serious objection to approaching the coast 
 east of Cape Horn, and that is, the rapidity with which the current 
 sets across Lemaire Strait, particularly Avith southerly winds. This 
 is not the case west of Diego Ramirez, and I do not see any objection 
 in this part to approach the coast to about forty or sixty miles. Near 
 Diego Ramirez I found little or no current. 
 
 WHien doubling Cape Horn from the eastward, we should pass 
 inside or west of the Falkland Islands, and pass east of Staten Island, 
 but as near as possible to it, because south-west winds are often met 
 with as soon as the Pacific Ocean is open. North-west winds off 
 the Falklands generally become west or south-west as Staten Island 
 is approached, and with the wind fi-om west ofT this island we have 
 only to run south. However, this coui'se need not be taken unless 
 we can make westing. Even if we gain little or nothing on the other 
 tack, we should keep near the shore, for there is no advantage in 
 making southing if it is not to avoid losing in the westing. We 
 should not, hoAvever, take much liberty with the coast while east 
 of Cape Horn. Such are the most general rules for doubling this 
 cape. 
 
 As to passing through Lemaire Strait, or outside Staten Island, 
 opinions differ. The prudent course is to adopt the latter, although 
 the passage through the straits gains to windward and shortens the 
 route. But with a southerly wind it should never be taken, for with 
 the tide ninning against the wind, the sea in the strait becomes boist- 
 erous. With a calm it would still be wrong to adopt it, unless the 
 west coast of the strait (for anchorage) cannot be reached, on account 
 of the tide setting toward Staten Island. Everywhere else the an- 
 chorage is in deep water and close to the shore. However, with 
 northerly Avinds, this route appears to be very advantageous. Suck 
 is King's opinion, and Captain Fitz-Roy's also, whose opinion is uur 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 15< 
 
 Lge 111 
 
 We 
 
 3 east 
 
 ? this 
 
 questioned, and who considers that there is no difiicuhy in taking 
 Leniaire Strait. The only danger to be apprehended is calm. Vessels 
 from the southward are not very liable to this danger, in south-west 
 Avinds at least ; and in this case they would probably find north-west 
 winds in the northern part of the strait. The Bay of Good Success 
 is, how^ever, admirably situated for affording shelter should wind or 
 tide fail. 
 
 In passing Staten Island from the southward, the tide rips, extend- 
 ing some distance off the north-east part of the island, should be 
 avoided ; but there are no dangers near the island. The foregoing 
 is sufficient to convey an idea as to how to double Cape Horn from 
 the eastward. 
 
 Most seamen who have frequented these latitudes (as King, Basil 
 Hall, Beechey, La Perouse, &c.) agree that the barometer does not 
 give any certain indications near Cape Horn, and that it can only be 
 depended on in middle latitudes. That although the mercury often 
 rises or falls before a change in the weather, the rising or falling 
 more often follows the change. The mean height of the barometer 
 is 29-5 inches. With north-west winds the mercury is low; if it 
 falls to 29-0 or 28*8 inches, expect south-west winds, which only 
 commence when the mercury ceases to fall. But again, a fall in the 
 mercury often occurs without being followed by any change in the 
 
 weather. 
 
 Magellan Strait.— In reference to the Straits of Magellan, King's 
 directions for the Patagonian coast must be followed by vessels from 
 the Atlantic to the Pacific. For steamers, especially if small, this 
 passage will be advantageous; but with a sailing vessel it is both 
 tedious and dangerous. 
 
 For a small vessel coming from the Pacific to the Atlantic, the 
 passage of Magellan Strait is very advantageous. It is always safe, 
 very nearly as quick, and not so dangerous as the route by Cape Horn. 
 Thus : entering by the Gulf of Trindad, she would take Conception 
 Strait, Sacramento or St. Esteban, then Smyth Channel, and the 
 strait at Cape Tamar. In these channels northerly winds prevail, 
 and anchorages are at hand to pass the night in. 
 
 The winter months are undoubtedly the best for the Straits of 
 Magellan when going west. When coming from west the summer 
 months are preferable; the nights being short and westerly winds 
 
 ^^^JDmMfng Cape Horn from West.—Faninng from the Pacific into the 
 Atlantic Ocean by Cape Horn, the principal objections are: dark 
 cloudy weather, a heavy sea, and floating ice. For a large ship the 
 nassaffo is easy enough, and the summer months (January and Feb- 
 ruary) are considered as the most favourable for it. A small vessel 
 
\.r^ 
 
 > fH i " l^"'|^"l***""lLiCJ*— 
 
 
 M» 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 I 
 
 having doubled the cape, would do better, and find a smoother sea, 
 by passing inside the Falkland Islands from Lemaire Strait. For a 
 large vessel, Beechey considers it preferable to pass east of the Falk- 
 land Tslands, especially in the winter, because the wind has then a 
 hankering for the eastward, and thus, when past the islands, she would 
 be in a good possition for reaching the River Plata. 
 
 One of the most formidable dangers of doubling Cape Horn is 
 tibat of smashing a low iceberg at night, when it is blowing fresh and 
 a heavy sea running. According to all seamen it appears that in the 
 winter and spring months (July, August, ard September) they are 
 most commonly met with. Sometimes ^he» 3 floating masses are only 
 a few yards above the water, and therefore very difficult to discover 
 in the night. In the dark nights of winter these dangers therefore 
 are to be provided against by the best look-out that can be kept: for 
 they are mostly met in freeh winds and a heavy sea. And as Captain 
 Basil Hall advises, it will be best at night under such circumstances 
 to lie off the cape. With fine weather and a quiet night small sail 
 may be carried, but the look-out shoxild be doubled, the greatest pos- 
 sible precautions adopted, the sails being set so as not to prevent 
 the watch from seeing all round. The following precaution is re- 
 commended by him. Having reefed the topsails and courses, the 
 yards should be braced nearly sharp up, bowlines hauled, and every 
 thing ready for going about in the night, however the wind might 
 come. Then when an iceberg is seen near ahead it may be avoided 
 by putting the hehn up or down. In all cases the yards braced in 
 renders either plan easy of execution. 
 
 The foregoing are the best instructions seamen can have for doubling 
 Cape Horn imder all circumstances ; and we will now consider the 
 navigation of the western coast of America. 
 
 Navigation of the Wut Coast of America. — ^The navigation of the 
 western coast of America presents no difficulties, care being taken, if 
 going north, to keep in Humboldt's Current; and in running along the 
 north coast during summer advantage should be taken of the Mexican 
 Current. Thus the passage may be easily made from the Straits of 
 Magellan to Acapulco, hj taking care to profit by the monsoons of 
 the Chili coast ; and the passage will be shorter or longer according 
 as the monsoon is &,vourable or not. 
 
 I. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 159 
 
 REPORT OF ANALYSIS OF TWO SAMPLES OF WATER FROM VANCOUTER 
 
 ISLAND. 
 
 Sample A, marked March 17, 1854, taken from Salt Spring Island, 
 (Admiral Island.) 
 
 Sample B, marked March 30, 1854, taken fi-om a Salt Spring at 
 Nanaino. 
 
 Summary. 
 
 The results of the analysis show the following to be the constitu- 
 tion of the two waters : — 
 
 In the Imperial Gallon. 
 Soluble. A. B. 
 
 Grains. Grains. 
 
 Chloride of sodium, and traces of other salts . 4994 3446 
 
 Insoluble. 
 Impurity . . . . . 160 nil 
 
 Total contents in Imperial gallons 
 
 6154 
 
 3446 
 
 Proportion of saline matter (chiefly salt) by weight per cent :— 
 
 Saline matter (chiefly salt) 
 Water 
 
 A. 
 
 B. 
 
 6-5 
 )3-5 
 
 4-9 
 9.5-1 
 
 100-0 
 
 100-0 
 
 The quantity of common salt in the imperial gallon of B. is about 
 twice as great as in Atlantic sea-water, and it could much more 
 easily be obtained pure, as it is not contaminated with the salts of 
 magnesia. 
 
 The water 3., although less rich in salt than A., is preferable to the 
 latter for the extraction of salt. The product from B. is purer. The 
 springs are far from being saturated brine. Water will dissolve 
 four times as much salt as is contained in B. I have foimd the 
 water of the Dead Sea in Palestine to contain as much as twenty-four 
 per cent., three-fourths of this being common salt. 
 
 Alfred Swaine Taylor, M.D. F.R.S. 
 
 Lecturer on Chemistry, &c., in Guy's Hospital. 
 
 Chemical Laboratory, Guy's Hospital, 
 October 2l8t, 1854. 
 
 Samples of the salt extracted from A and B are at the laboratory, 
 under the care of the assistant, Mr. Andrews. > 
 
 ' Those interested in the manufacture of salt from brine springs I would 
 
n 
 
 leo 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ' 
 
 PROFESSOR JAMES TENNANT ON THE ROCKS OF VANCOUVER 
 
 ISLAND. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 149 Strand, November 29th, 1852. 
 
 I send the names of the specimens ; those marked with a * are 
 on the first page. Several of these, viz. 5*, 8*, 9*, and 13* contain 
 gold, although I do not find gold in Nos. 6*, 10*, and 14*. I be- 
 lieve the vein from which the specimens were taken does contain it. 
 I have not found gold in any of the specimens from No. 1 to 43 
 without a * on page No. 2. 
 
 I have, &c. 
 
 To the Secretary, 
 Hudson's Bay House. 
 
 Jame8 Tennant. 
 
 1 1 
 
 Page 1. 
 
 No. 1*. Dark coloured compact limestone, with veins of calcareous 
 
 spar. 
 2*. Veins of quartz partly crystallised, in which no gold is to 
 
 be seen. 
 8*. Serpentine. 
 4* A. Quartz crystallized. 
 4*B, Clay slate, or killas. 
 4*c. Clay slate, with minute crystals of iron pyrites, and veins 
 
 of quartz.. 
 5*. Part of quartz vein, with particles of gold disseminated. 
 6*D. Clay slate, containing crystals of iron pyrites, and veins of 
 
 quartz. 
 6*E. Clay slate. 
 7*. Dark coloured limestone rock, with calcareous spar, 
 
 similar to No. 1. 
 
 refer to the Prize Essay on the Manufacture of Salt, by Mr. H. Owen Hus- 
 kisson, which obtained the Society's medal; Parliamentary Report on the 
 subject in 1836 ; Fownes's Chemistry ; and lire's Dictionary of Arts and Manu- 
 factures ; also, Utah and the Mormons, by Ferris. The American Patent 
 Office Reports of 1857 (vol. Agricultural) contain an interesting article on the 
 manufacture of salt from brine springs, as practised in America, copied from 
 the Illinois Joiiruals. — J. D. P. 
 
APPEXDIX. 
 
 161 
 
 are 
 
 8*. Part of a vein of qiiartz imperfectly crystallised, containing 
 
 gold. 
 9*. Clay slate, with small crystals of iron pyrites and veins of 
 
 quartz partly crystallised, the latter contiiining a small 
 
 quantity of gold. 
 10*. Clay slate, with numerous small crystals of iron pyrites, 
 
 and veins of quartz crystallised. 
 11*. Clay slate; this with Nos. 4, G, 9, 10, 13, and 1-4 contains 
 
 much silica. 
 12*. Serpentine. 
 13*. Clay slate, containing numerous small crystals of iron 
 
 pyrites and veins of quai'tz ; in the latter particles of 
 
 gold are distributed. 
 14*. Quartz, partly crystallised, containing a small quantity of 
 
 auriferous iron pyrites. 
 
 (Signed) James Tennant. 
 
 THE PACIFIC SQUADRON. NAVAL STATION. 
 
 (From The Times Correspondent, Juno 26, 186' ) 
 
 It is true, that if all that is required for a naval station be so 
 much water for so many ships to float and to anchor in, and so 
 many acres of ground for docks in a wilderness, these essentials are 
 obtainable in Burrard's Inlet, which is about five miles across 
 country from New Westminster. But, as the naval station placed 
 in that locality involves the navigation of a portion of the Straits of 
 Fuca, of the whole of the Canal de Haro (under the guns of the 
 American batteries if San Juan be given :ip), together with the 
 crossing of the Gulf of Georgia, often a tempestuous sea, as well as 
 the other inland waters which intei-vene between Burrard's Inlet 
 and Esquimalt and the ocean, all of which navigation would be an 
 addition to a voyage long enough already, and Avhich would be 
 avoided by leaving the squadron to rendezvous at Esquimalt, where 
 the ships now lie, most competent judges prefer Esquimalt for the 
 head-quarters of the squadron. Esquimalt is near the ocean, easily 
 accessible by day and night now that a lighthouse is placed at its 
 entrance. It has good anchorage in Royal Bay, just outside, where 
 a fleet could ride. Besides these conveniences, it possesses great 
 facilities for fortifications over every other harbour in the Pacific 
 
 M 
 
■i 
 
 162 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 hifeiii 
 
 I 
 
 Ocean. It could be made impregnable at less cost than any othei* 
 harl^our in these seas could be rendered partially secure ; and it is 
 well situated for supplying ships to defend the entrance into the 
 Straits of Fuca — a measure to the accomplishment of which " Port 
 San Juan," situated on Vancouver's Island, near the entrance, pos- 
 sesses important facilities in having a good harbour three miles long, 
 and capable of anchoring a fleet in safety. From this port one or 
 two ships could blockade the entrance, and make Fuca's Straits a 
 British lake, while Esquimalt is close at hand to afford supplies and 
 all necessary assistance. 
 
 While these are some of the advantages of Esquimalt, let us 
 glance at the disadvantages and inconveniencies of making Burrard's 
 Inlet the head-quarters. 
 
 The tedious navigation to and fro between Esquimalt and the 
 inlet I have already mentioned. There is also the additional ex- 
 pense of provisioning the squadron. At Victoria the men-of-war 
 get all they want, and at Esquimalt itself there is a bakery which 
 supplies them with biscuit. The Admiral's communications with 
 England would be delayed considerably if he were on the coast of 
 British Columbia. Shut up in the inlet the squadron would be out 
 of the way, and distant from the points in the Straits of Fuca where 
 its services must always be most needed. Vancouver's Island will 
 be the point of attack, if an attack is made on one of these colonies 
 by any hostile power, as it must be secured to make the continent 
 tenable if taken, so that if Burrard's Inlet were made the naval 
 station it would involve this anomaly, — that while the head- 
 (juarters were over there, the ships would always be stationed here. 
 The naval station must be at Esquimalt. 
 
 I) 
 
 HOESE-RACING IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
 From BelPs Life, July 1st., 1860. 
 
 Sacramento Races {Contreville Course). 
 
 First day, Tuesday, April 24. — A purse of 800 dollars, for all ages; 
 Metairie Club weights ; heats, one mile. 
 
 H. Peyton's gr. f. Susy Hawkins, by Jack Hawkins out of Lola 
 
 Montez, by Gray Eagle, 2 yrs. . . . .11 
 
 M. Morisou's ro. f. Kate Mitchell, by Ned Murray, dam , 
 
 2 yrs. . , . . . . . . 2 dis 
 
 J. Merritt's (A. F. Grigsby's) b. c. Billy Hood, by Imp. Lawyer, 
 
 dam , 2 yrs. . . . . . . 3 dis 
 
 Time, 1 : 62—1 : 53|. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 1G3 
 
 Second day, April 25. — A purse of COO dollars, free for all ages; 
 Metairie Club weights ; heats, two miles. 
 
 N. Coomb's ch. h. Billy Cheatham, by Cracker out of Lucy, by 
 
 Mingo, 6 yrs. . , . . . . .11 
 
 E. S. Lathrop's (W. M.. Williamson's) b. m. Bonny Belle, by Bel- 
 mont out of Liz Givens, by Imp. Langford, 6 yrs. . .22 
 
 First heat . . . 1 : 51i— 1 : 56 — 3 : 47i 
 
 Second heat . . . 1 : 55 — 1 : 52.^—3 : 47| 
 
 Third day, April 2G.— Great Match for 10,000 dollars (four mile 
 heats), between the Californian-bred colt Langford and the Ken- 
 tucky-bred colt Ashland. 
 
 E. S. Lathrop's ch. c. Langford, by Belmont out of 
 
 Liz Givens, by Imp. Langford, 4 yrs, 100 lb. up . W. Pierce 
 
 Hon. N. Coomb's b. h. Ashland, by Imp. Glencoo 
 
 out of Mary Bell, by Sea Gull, 5 yrs., 1101b. up . J. Williams 
 
 First heat . . .1:52 
 
 Second heat . . .1:54—3:46 
 
 Third heat . . . 1 : 57i— 5 : 43^ 
 
 Fourth heat . . . 2 : 00^— 7 : 43| 
 
 Match for 100 dollars ; heats, one mile, to rule. 
 
 J. Mcrritt's b. c. Billy Hood, 2 yrs. .... 
 J. B. James's gr. g. Jim Thurnan, 3 jts. .... 
 
 Time, 1 : 56—2 : 081. 
 
 1 
 
 dr 
 
 1 
 
 dis 
 
 Fourth day, April 27. — The Proprietors' purse of 300 dollars ; free 
 for all ages ; heats, one mile ; best three in five. 
 
 Capt. H. Peyton's gr. f. Susy Hawkins, 2 yrs. (pedigree, &c. 
 
 as above) . . . • • • • ^ 
 
 E. S. Lathrop's (W. M. Williamson's) b. m. Bonnie Belle, 6 
 
 yrs. (pedigree as above) ..... 
 Time, 1 : 51|— 1 : 52—1 : 50. 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2 2 
 
 LAW OF LAND SALES IN THE COLONIES. 
 
 As the law itself is short, and to intending settlers particuhuly 
 interesting, it is inserted here, omitting the preamble :— 
 
 1 That from and after the date hereof, (January 4tli, l-SOO,) 
 British subjects and aliens who shall take the oath of alK-iance to 
 Her Majesty and her successors, may acquire unoccupied and uiire- 
 served, and unsurveyed Crown land in British Columbia (not l.eing 
 the site of an exi.steut or proposed town, or auriferous land available 
 
 M 1 
 
164 
 
 AITEXDIX. 
 
 
 n' 
 
 for mining purposes, or an Indian Resei'vc or Settlement,) in fee 
 wimple, under the following conditions. 
 
 2. The person desiring to acquire any particular plot of land of 
 the character aforesaid, shall enter into possession thereof and record 
 his claim to any quantity not exceeding IGO acres thereof, with the 
 magistrate residing nearest thereto, paying to the said magistrate the 
 sum of eight shillings for recording such claim. Such piece of land 
 shall be of a rectangular form, and the shortest side of the rectangle 
 shall be at least two-thirds of the longest side. The claimant shall 
 give the biist possible description thereof to the magistrate with 
 whom his claim is recorded, together with a rough plan thereof, and 
 identify the plot in question by placing at the comers of the land 
 four posts, and by stating in his description any other land marks on 
 the said 160 acres, which he may consider of a noticeable character. 
 
 3. Whenever the Government survey shall extend to the land 
 claimed, the claimant who has recorded his claim as aforesaid, or his 
 heirs, or in case of the grant of certificate of improvement hereinafter 
 mentioned, the assigns of such claimant shall, if he or they shall have 
 been in continuous occupation of the same land from the date of the 
 record aforesaid, be entitled to purchase th<5 land so pre-empted at 
 such rate as may, for the time being, be fixed by the Government 
 of British Columbia, not exceeding the sum of ten shillings per acre. 
 
 4. No interest in any plot of land acquired a& aforesaid, shall 
 before payment of the purchase money, be capable of passing to a 
 purchaser unless the vendor shall have obtained a certificate from 
 the nearest magistrate that he has made pennanent improvements on 
 the said plot to the value of ten shillings per acre. 
 
 5. Upon payment of the purchase money, a conveyance of the 
 land purchased shall b^ executed in favour of the purchaser, reserv- 
 ing the precious minerals, with a right to enter and work the same 
 in flivour of the Crown its assigns and licencees. 
 
 6. Priority of title shall be obtained by the person first in occupa- 
 tion, who shall first record his claim in manner aforesaid. 
 
 7. Any person authorised to acquire land under the provisions of 
 this Proclamation, may purchase in addition to the land pre-empted, 
 in manner aforesaid, any number of acres not otherwise appropriated, 
 at such rate as may be fixed by the Government, at the time when 
 such land shall come to be surveyed, not to exceed ten shillings per 
 acre ; five shillings to be paid down, and the residue at the time of 
 survey. 
 
 8. In the event of the Crown, its assigns or licencees, availing 
 itself, or themselves, of the reservation mentioned in clause 5, a 
 reasonable ct)mpensation for the waste and damage done, shall be 
 paid by the person entering and working, to the person whose land 
 
 •^,w*" 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 1G5 
 
 shall be wasted or damaged as aforesaid, and in case of dispute, the 
 same shall be settled by a jury of six men to be summoned by the 
 nearest Magistrate. 
 
 9. Whenever any person shall permanently cease to occupy land 
 pre-empted as aforestiid, the Magistrate resident nearest to the land 
 in question may in a sunnnary way, on being stitisfied of such per- 
 manent cessation, cancel the claim of the person so permanently 
 ceasing to occupy the same, and record the claim thereto of any 
 other person satisfying the requisitions aforesaid. 
 
 10. The decision of the Magistrate may be appealed by either 
 party to the decision of the Judge of the Supreme Court of Civil 
 Justice of British Columbia. 
 
 11. Any person desirous of appealing in manner aforesaid, may 
 be required, b ore such appeal be heard, to find such security as 
 may be hereafter pointed out by the rules or orders hereinafter 
 directed to be published. 
 
 12. The procedure before the M.agistrate and Judge respectively, 
 shall be according to such rules and orders as shall be published by 
 such Judge with the approbation of the Governor for the time of 
 British Columbia. 
 
 13. Whenever a person in occupation at the time of record afore- 
 said, and he, his heirs, or assigns, shall have continued in permanent 
 occupation of land pre-empted, or of land purchased as aforesaid, he 
 or they may, save as hereinafter mentioned, bring ejectment or tres- 
 pass against any intruder upon the land so pre-empted or purchased, 
 to the same extent as if he or they were seized of the legal estate in 
 possession in the land so pre-empted or purchased. 
 
 14. Nothing herein contained shall be construed as giving a right 
 to any claimant to exclude free miners from searching for any of the 
 precious minerals, or working the same upon the conditions aforesaid. 
 
 15. The Government shall, notwithstanding any claim, record, or 
 conveyance aforesaid, be entitled to enter and take such portion of 
 the land pre-empted or purchased as may be required for roads or 
 other public purposes. 
 
 IG. Water privileges and the right of carrying water for mining 
 purposes, may, notwithstanding any claim recorded, i^urchase or 
 conveyance aforesaid, be claimed and taken upon, under or over the 
 said land so pre-empted or purchased as albrcsaid by free miners 
 requiring the same, and obtaining a grant or licence from the Gold 
 Commissioner, and paying a compensation for waste or damage to 
 the person whose land may be wasted or damaged by such water 
 privilege or carriage of water, to be ascertained in case of dispute in 
 manner aforesaid. 
 
 17. In case any disj[)ule sliall arise between persons with regard 
 
■i 
 
 A- 
 
 166 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 to any land so acquired as aforcsiiid, any one of the portica in diflfer- 
 ence may, (before ejectment or action of trespasa brought,) refer tlie 
 question in diflerence to the nearest Magistrate, who is liereby 
 authorised to proceed in a summary way to restore the possession of 
 any land in dispute to the person whom he may deem entitled to 
 the same, and to abate all intrusions, and award and levy such costB 
 and damages as he may think fit. 
 
 That the measure before detailed will require some modification 
 and amendment appears probable. 
 
 For instance, if Clauses 1 and 2 were canied out in their integrity, 
 the future survey of the country would prevent the confusion of 
 posts and land landmarks, and the kaleidoscopic appearance exhibited 
 
 in figure No. 1. 
 
 Fiff.l. 
 
 And in point of economy, a decided mistake would be made, 
 viz. that the marking of allotments and survey of the country would 
 fail to be executed in a single operation. 
 
 I should recommend instead the decimal system of allotment, 
 adopted with perfect success in Vancouver Island. Main lines are 
 run, 1^ mile apart, fonning squares of 1000 acres each, within which 
 allotments of any size required can be arranged ad libitum to suit any 
 frontage. Where the land is valueless, the detailed surveys within 
 the great squares are omitted ; and in this way, Avith the greatest 
 facility, any part of the country is sui'veyed roughly or minutely, 
 according to its value, and connected with the rest, which will be 
 at once understood by a glance at fig. 2. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 i(;7 
 
 Fhj. 2. 
 
 100 CM*. 
 
 lOOAC. I lOOAC 
 100 AC. I 
 
 loo CMS. 
 
 «00 CH». 
 
 lOrJCH*. 
 
 I ! 
 
 120 AC. I 
 -■I 
 
 tiOAC. i I 
 
 I40AC 1 i 
 
 I20AC. I 
 l?OAC. I 
 
 
 pii 
 
 [j... 
 
 i\ 
 
 I 
 
 Adopting this view, the claimant would of course have to be 
 content to accept the lines of the allotment which might include his 
 improvements. 
 
 In Clause No, 3. I should think it will be ultimately found neces- 
 sary to name an exact time when the survey may be expected to 
 take place, .ind the claimant be required to pay for the land. 
 
 And in Clause 17. If the dispute should be one of boundaries, 
 one would suppose that the difficulty ought to be referred to the 
 Surveyor-general; that a magistrate, unless he brushed up his 
 mathematics to some purpose, might have considerable difficulty in 
 settling it. 
 
 AS TO THE PUnCHASE OF LANDS BY ALIENS. 
 
 Victoria, Vancouver's Island, November 25, 1858. 
 
 1. According to the law of England, which is also the law of 
 British Columbia, an alien may hold lands, but is liable to have 
 them declared forfeited to the crown at any time. 
 
 2. No alien can be disturbed in the possession of lands by any 
 other person than the Crown authorities by reason only of his being 
 an alien. 
 
4, 
 
 108 
 
 Ari'EXDIX. 
 
 3. The Colonial Govornmctit propoHPs to secure ♦o aliens the full 
 rights of posHCHsion niul (.'iijoynient of juiy luutln which they may 
 purcliase at thia sjile for the space of three years. At the end of 
 that time they must, if they winh to continue to liold the lands, 
 either become themselves naturalised British subjects, or else convey 
 their rights to British subjects. Such conveyances it is the intention 
 of the Colonial Government not to disturb on the ground of any 
 vendor being an alien. 
 
 4. It is the intention of the Colonial Government to endeavour to 
 obtain from the Home Government their sanction to measures for 
 carrying into effect the above views, which measures are now in 
 preparation; but they must depend, for their full effect, on the 
 ratification by the Home Governmeut. 
 
 The above was issued by the Chief Justice. 
 
 *-f 
 
 Extract from Despatch from Sir E. Ji. Li/fton to Governor Douglas, 
 
 August 14, 1858. 
 
 4. Foreigners, as such, are not entitU^d to grants of waste land of 
 the Crown in British colonies. But it is the strong desire of Her 
 Majesty's Government to attract to this ten-itory all peaceful settlers, 
 without regard to nation. Natiu'alisiition shoidd, therefore, be 
 granted to all who desire it, and are not disqualified by special 
 causes, and with naturalisation the right of acquiring Crown land 
 should follow. 
 
 •If 
 % 
 
 i.| 
 
 RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THE WORKING OF GOLD MINE.S, 
 ISSUED IN CONFORMITY WITH THE GOLD FIELDS ACT, 1859. 
 
 Whereas it is provided by the Gold Fields Act 1859, that the 
 Governor, for the time being, of Bi'itish Columbia, may, by writing 
 under his hand and the public seal of the colony, make nUes and 
 regulations in the nature of by-laws, for all matters relating to 
 mining. 
 
 And whereas, in conformity with the said Act, certain rules and 
 regulations have already been issued bearing date the 7th of Sep- 
 tember, 1859. 
 
 1. The mines in the said level benches shall be known as "bench 
 diggings," and shall for the purpose of ascertaining the size of claims 
 
APl'KXDIX. 
 
 16» 
 
 therein be exccptod out of the chiHH of "dry diggingH," an dotiiR'il in 
 the ruU>s and rc^Miliitions of tin- 7th of Suptfuilxn- liiMt. 
 
 2. The (irdinury chiims on any bench diggings whall he registcrod 
 by the goUl conimiHsioner according to wicli one of the two following 
 methods of measurement as he sliall (h-uin most advantageous on each 
 mine, viz.: One Innidred feet sfjuarc, or else ji strip of hind twenty- 
 five feet d(M'|) at the edge of the clilfnext the river, and l)onnded by 
 tAvo straight lines carried as nearly as possible in each case perpen- 
 dicular to the general direction of such cliff across the level bench u]) 
 to, and not beyond the foot of the descent in the rear; and in such 
 last mentioned case, the space included between such two boundary 
 lines when produced over the face of the cliff in front as far as the 
 foot of such cliff and no farther, and all mines in the space so 
 included shall also form a part of such claim. 
 
 3. The gold commissioner shall have authority in cases where the 
 benches are narrow to mark the claims in such manner as he shall 
 think fit, so as to include an adequate clahn. And shall also have 
 power to decide on the cliffs which, in his opinion, form the natural 
 boundaries of benches. 
 
 4. The gold commissioner may in any mine of any denomination 
 where the pay dirt is thin or claims in small demand, or where from 
 any circumstances he shall deem it reasonable, allow any free miner 
 to register two claims in his own name, and allow such period as he 
 may think proper for non-working either one of such claims. But 
 no person shall be entitled to hold at one time more than two claims 
 of the legal size. A discoverer's claim shall for this purpose be 
 reckoned as one ordinary claim. 
 
 5. All claims shall be subject to the public rights of way and water 
 in such manner, direction, and extent as the gold commissioner shall 
 from time to time direct ; no mine shall be worked within ten feet 
 of any road, unless by the previous sanction of the gold commissioner. 
 
 6. In order to ascertain the quantity of water in any ditch or 
 sluice, the following rules shall be observed, viz., 
 
 The water taken into a ditch, shall be measured at the ditch head. 
 No water shall be taken into a ditch except in a trough whose top 
 and fl'- or shall be horizontal planes, and sides parallel vertical planes ; 
 such ...'ough to be continued for six times its breadth in a horizontal 
 direction from the point at which the water enters the trough. The 
 top of the trough to be not more than seven inches, and the bottom 
 of the trough not more than seventeen inches below the surface of 
 the water in the reservoir, all measurements being taken inside the 
 trough and in the low water or dry season. The area of a vertical 
 transverse section of the trough, shall be considered as the measure 
 of the quantity of water taken by the ditch. 
 
 A' 
 
 
•I 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 The same mode of measurement shall be applied to ascertain the 
 quantity of water running in a trough or out of any ditch. 
 
 Issued under the Public Seal of the Colony of British Columbia 
 at Victoria, Vancouver Island, this sixth day of January, in 
 the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty, 
 and in the twenty -third year of Her Majesty's reign, by 
 me, 
 
 (L. S.) 
 
 James Douglas. 
 
 By Ilis Excellency's Command, 
 
 William A. G. Yoitno, 
 Acting Colonial Secretary. 
 
 
 <i? 
 
 CHINESE. 
 
 (From The Times of June 26th, 1860.) 
 
 From the mines the news was never better. New diggings are 
 constantly being discovered, and large earnings being made all over 
 the mining region. The Chinese immigration, which was expected, 
 is beginning to set in. About 800 Chinamen have arrived within 
 the last fortnight, some of them in two vessels from China direct, 
 others fi-om San Francisco. They have nearly all gone up to the 
 mmes. 
 
 Accounts fi'om China say that a large immigration may be expected 
 if the Chinese are well treated. 
 
 There • are no distinctions made against them in these colonies. 
 They have the same jirotection as all other persons, and in the 
 mines they are allowed the same rights, liberties, and privileges as 
 all other miners, and the great bulk of the population is very glad 
 to see them coming into the country. Fears for the result arc the 
 phantoms of a few nervous and ill-informed persons. 
 
 l.i 
 
 f 
 
 From The :^i^ Westminster Times of April Utli, 1860. 
 
 According to the San Francisco National " arrangeTnGiits are 
 making at that port for the conveyance of seven thousand Chinese 
 passengers to British Columbia ; " and the same authority otates that 
 *' it is highlj' probable that the total departures during the spring 
 may greatly exceed that number." Thus we Avill have during the 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 171 
 
 m 
 
 summer a Chinese population of at least 10,000, or more than 
 double that of our other inhabitants. 
 
 " So considerable an accession to the population of the English 
 possessions, will be very favourably received at this time by our 
 northern neighbours. The movement of the Chinese in that 
 direction, affords strong confirmation of the mineral wealth of 
 British Columbia. This sagacious people do not migrate in large 
 squads without sufficient preparation and satisfactory assurance that 
 they will improve their condition by the change. Their agents 
 have carefully investigated the Fraser river country, and reported 
 favourably. It is found to offer better opportunities for the Chinese 
 than the California gold fields under the present mining regulations. 
 The sudden exodus of ten thousand or more of Chinese will have 
 the effect of quieting for a time the irritation against that race 
 which now prevails pretty generally throughout our diggings." 
 
 Km 
 
 THE END. 
 
;f'j r^'irl'i firnWlirini 
 
 Hfili 
 
 t 
 
 
 1 
 
 '1,1 
 
 ^ 
 
 LONDON 
 
 TMNTl'.D IIV SrOTTISWOODK AND CO. 
 
 ^EW-STKEET SQUAIIK 
 
LIST 
 
 OF 
 
 WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE 
 
 PUBLISHBD BY 
 
 MESSRS. LONGMAN. GREEN. LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 
 39 Pateenosteb Eow, Londok. 
 
 CLASSIFIED INDEX 
 
 Aerieultnre and Rural 
 Afftvlrs. 
 
 Bayldon on Valuing Rent!, ftc. - 4 
 Cecil's Stud Farm - - -6 
 
 Hoskyns'B Talpa - - - - J" 
 
 Loudon'i A(fri:uUure - - - " 
 
 Morion on Lai.dcd Property - 16 
 
 " (J. C.) Dairy Husbandry - 10 
 
 Arts. Mannfastnrea, and 
 Architecture. 
 
 Bourne's Catechism of tho Steam 
 
 Engine - " ,„ : ,. ' i 
 
 Brande's Dictionary of Scienc»,4c. 4 
 
 " Orxanic Chemistry- - 4 
 
 Cresy's Civil Engineerinn ,- " ° 
 
 Fairbairn's Informa. for Engmeerg i 
 
 " on Mills and Millwork 7 
 
 Falkener's Dsdalus -„,".: " 
 
 " Museum of Classical 
 
 Antiqi'ities - ■, ,' . ' 1 
 
 Goodeve's Elements of Mechanism H 
 
 Gwilt's Encyclo. of Architecture - » 
 
 Harford's Platfs from M. Angelo - » 
 
 Humphreys's l^arablet lllummated in 
 
 Jameson's Saints and Martjrs - H 
 
 « Monastic Orders - - }} 
 
 " Legends of Madonna - II 
 
 " Commonplace-Book - H 
 
 KBnig's Pictorial Lif.; of Luther - 8 
 
 Loudon's Rural Architecture - IJ 
 
 Love's Art of Dyeing - ,r ," ij 
 
 Lowndes's Enemee.'s Handbook- IJ 
 
 M ac Dougall's Campo ^ns of Han- 
 
 nibal - - J* 
 
 " Theory of War - 14 
 
 Moseley's Engineering - " " }„ 
 
 Piesse's Art of Perfumery - . - l'* 
 
 " Laboratory of Chymical 
 
 Wonders - - - " ^.' i5 
 
 Richardson's Art of Horsemanship IB 
 
 Scoffern on Projectiles, &c. - - 10 
 
 8team-Engine,by the Artisan Club 4 
 
 Ure'iDictTonaryof Arts.&c. - »•! 
 
 Blosrapby. 
 
 Arago's Lives of Scientific Men - 3 
 
 Baillie's Memoir of Bate - - J 
 
 Brialmont's Wellington - - 4 
 
 Bunsen's Hippolytus - " " * 
 
 Bunting's (Dr.) Life - - - 6 
 
 Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials - e 
 
 Green's Princesses of England - o 
 
 Harford's Life of Michael Angelo- 8 
 
 Lardner's Cabinet Cv'^lopedia - 13 
 Marshman's Life of Carey, Marsh- 
 
 man, and Ward - 15 
 
 " Lif» of Havelock - 15 
 
 Maunder'a Biographical Treasury- 16 
 
 Mountain's (Col.l Memoirs - - ]*> 
 
 Palleske's Life of Schiller - - 17 
 
 Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs - - 17 
 IVel'H Sketch of Sir R. Peel's Life 
 
 ;ind Character - - - - 17 
 
 Piozii's Autobiography and Letters IK 
 
 Russell's Mtmoirs of Moore - 16 
 
 " (Dr.) Meziofanti - - I'J 
 
 SchimmelPenninck's (Mrs.) Life - 19 
 
 Shee's Life of Sir M. A. Shee - W 
 
 Southey'i Life of Wesley - - iJl 
 
 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biograohy 21 
 
 Strickland's Queens of England - 21 
 
 Sydney Smith's Memoirs - - 21 
 Walerton'i Autobiography* Essays 23 
 
 Books of General Utility. 
 
 Acton'i Cookery Book . - - 3 
 Black's Treatise on Brewing- - 4 
 Cabinet Gaietteer - . . - B 
 " Lawyer - - - - 5 
 Cult's Invalid's Own Book - - 8 
 Hensman's Handbook of the Con- 
 stitution 9 
 
 Hints on Etiquette . . - 9 
 
 Hudson's Executor's Guide - - 10 
 
 " on Making Wills - - 10 
 
 Hunter's Art of Writing P'*ii8 - 11 
 Kesteven's Domestic Medicine - II 
 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopedia - 12 
 Loudon's Lady's Country Compa- 
 nion - - . - ■ - 13 
 Maunder'! TreasuTT of Knowledge 15 
 " Biographical Treasury 15 
 " Geographical Treasury 15 
 " Scientific Treasury - 15 
 " Treasury of History - 15 
 " Natural History - - 15 
 Piesse's Art of Perfumery - - 18 
 Pitt's How to Brew Good Beer - 18 
 Pocket and the Stud . - . 8 
 Pycroft's English Reading - - 18 
 Richardson's Art of Horsemanship IS 
 Riddle'sLatin Dictionaries - - 19 
 Roget's English Thesaurus - - 19 
 Rowton'a Debater - - - - 19 
 
 Short Whist 20 
 
 Simpson's Handbook of Dining - 20 
 Sleigh's Personal Wrongs and 
 
 Leg.il Remedies . - - - 20 
 
 Thomson's Interest Tables - - 22 
 WaUord's Handybook of the Civil 
 
 Service ----- 23 
 
 Webster's Domestic Economy - 23 
 
 West on Nursing Sick Children - 24 
 
 Willich'a Popular Tables - - 24 
 
 Wilmot's Blackstone - - - 24 
 
 Botany and Gardenine. 
 
 Has (all's British Freshwater Alga 9 
 
 Hooker's British Flora - - - 10 
 
 " Guide to Kew Gardens - II) 
 
 Lindley's Introduction to Botany 12 
 
 " Synopsis of the British 
 
 Flora - - - - 12 
 
 " Theory of Horticulture - 12 
 
 Loudon's Hortus Britannicus - 13 
 
 " Amateur Gardener - 13 
 
 " Trees and Shrubs - - 13 
 
 " Gardening - - - 13 
 
 " Plants . - - - 13 
 
 Pcreira's Materia Medica - - 17 
 
 Rivera's Rose-Amateur's Guide - 19 
 
 Wilson's British Mosses - - 24 
 
 ChronolOKT* 
 
 Brewer's Historical Atlas - - 4 
 
 Bunsen's Ancient Egypt " " ° 
 
 Haydn's Beatson's Indei - - 9 
 
 Jaquemet'8 Abridged Chronology - U 
 
 ' Nicolas's Chronology of History - 12 
 
 Commerce and Mercantile 
 Affairs* 
 
 Gilbart's Logic of Banking • - 8 
 
 Lorimer's Young Master Mariner - 13 
 M'Culloch's Commerce* Navigation 14 
 
 Thomson's Interest Tabli-8 - - 22 
 
 Tooke's History of Prices - - 3J 
 
 Criticism, History, and 
 Memoirs. 
 
 Brewer's Historical Atlas - - - 4 
 
 Bunsen's Ancient Egypt - - 5 
 
 " Hippolytus - .-. - J 
 
 Burke's Vicissitudes of Families - 5 
 
 Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus - 8 
 Clouch'a Greek History from 
 
 Plutarch - - ■„'„,"; 
 
 Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 6 
 
 Connolly's Sappers and Miners - 6 
 
 Crowe's History of France • ." » 
 Prater's Letters during the Penm- 
 
 sularand Waterloo Campaigns 7 
 Gumey's Historical Sketches - 8 
 Hayward's Essays -,-.,-■ ' 
 Hensman's Handbook of the Con- 
 stitution - -..■,,■ ? 
 Herschel's Essays and Addresses - 9 
 Jeffrey's (Lord) Essays - - 11 
 Kemble'i Anglo-Saxons - - U 
 
 Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopedia - 12 
 Lalliam's \V.^rks on the English 
 
 Language 11 
 
 Lowe's Campaig.ns in Central India 13 
 
 Macaulay'sCrit. and Hist. Essays U 
 
 " History of England - 13 
 
 " Miscellaneous Writings 13 
 
 " Speeches - - - 14 
 
 Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 14 
 
 " History of England - 14 
 
 M'CuUoch'sGeographicalDii tionary 14 
 
 Maunder's Treasury of History - IS 
 
 Merivale's History of Rome - - 15 
 
 " Roman Republic - - IS 
 
 Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, *c. - 16 
 
 Mure's Greek Literature - - 16 
 
 Pall.. ske'i Life* Works of Schiller 17 
 
 Piozzi's Autobioifraphy & Letters 18 
 
 Porter's Knights of Malta - - 18 
 
 Raikes's Journal - - - - 18 
 
 Rich's R. and G. Antiquities- - It* 
 
 Riddle's Latin Lsxicon - 19 
 
 Rogers's Essays from Edinb. ReTiewl9 
 
 " (Sam.) Recollections - 19 
 
 Roget's English Thesaurus - - 19 
 
 SchimmelPenninck's Memoirs of 
 
 Port Royal - - 19 
 
 " Principles of 
 
 Beauty, &c. - - - 19 
 
 Schmitt's History of Greece - 19 
 
 Southey's Doctor - - - - 21 
 
 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 21 
 
 " Lectures on French History 21 
 
 Sydney Smith's Worka - - - 21 
 
 " Lectures - - 21 
 
 " Memoirs - - 21 
 
 Thirlwall's Historyof Greece - 21 
 
 Turner's Anglo-Saxons - - 23 
 
 White & Riddle's Latin Dictionary 21 
 
 Whiteside's Italy . - - - 24 
 
 Wilkins'B Political Ballads - - 24 
 
 Wilmot'i Brougham's Law Reforms 24 
 
 Geography and Atlases. 
 
 Brewer's Historical Atlas - - 4 
 
 Butler's Geography and Atlases - 5 
 
 Cabinet Gazetteer - - - - 5 
 
 Johnston's General Gaietteer - 11 
 M'Culloch'a Geographical Dictionary 14 
 
 Maunder's Treasury of Geography 15 
 
 Murray's Encyclo. of Geography - 17 
 
 Sharp's British Gazetteer - - 20 
 
 Jnvenile Bookss 
 
 Amy Herbert ----- 20 
 
 CleTeHall W 
 
 Earl's Daughter (The) - - - 20 
 
 Experience of Life - - - 20 
 
 Gertrude - . - - 20 
 
 Howitt's Boy's Country Book - !0 
 
 " (Mary)ChiIdren'8Year - 10 
 
 Ivors 20 
 
 Katharine Ashton ■ - - - 20 
 
 Laneton Paisonage ... - 2ii 
 
 Margaret Percival - - - - 20 
 Piesse's Chymical, Natural, and 
 
 Physical Magic - 18 
 
 " Laboratory of Chymical 
 
 Wonders - - . 18 
 
 Pycroft's Collegian's Guide - - IS 
 
 Medicine, anrgery, dec. 
 
 Brodie's Psychological Inquiries - 4 
 
 Bull's Hints to Mothers- - - 4 
 
 " Managemento' Children - 4 
 
 Copland's Dictionary of Medicine - II 
 
 Cust's Invalid's Own Book - - B 
 
 Holland's Mental PhysiologT - 9 
 '• Medical Notes and Reflect. 9 
 
 Kesteven's Domestic Medicine - 11 
 
 Pereira's Materia Med;c» - - 17 
 
 Spencer's Psychology - - - 21 
 Todd's Cyclopedia of Anatomy 
 
 and Physiology - - - - 23 
 
 West on Children's Diseases - - 24 
 
 " Nursing Sick Children - 24 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 ! 
 
 h 
 
 I)- 
 
 i 
 
 It 
 
 I'! 
 
 ii 
 
 2 
 
 CLASSIFIED INDEX TO OBNERAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 MlBMlUseonk MiA Gtanenil 
 &ltar«tisre. 
 
 Buon'i (Lord) Work! - 
 Boue'i Philosophy of Niturc 
 Bray on Education of the FeelinRs 
 Defence of Xe(i|><«<|/AittA - 
 EcUpee of Faith - . - - 
 Gnyion'i Select Correspondenee - 
 Gurney'i Eiening Rtcreationa - 
 HaMalVi Adulteration! Det«ctcd,&c 
 Hardn'aBookof Dimitiea - 
 HoUand'a MenUl Phyilology 
 Hcoker'i Kew Guide 
 Howard's Gymnastic Exercises 
 
 Howitt'f Rmral Life of EnRland - 
 
 " Visitito RemarkahlePlacci 
 Jameion't Commnnplace-Book - 
 M»cauUya SpeeohM - - - 
 Mackintosh'sMiscelUnaouWoaka 
 Martineau'i Mli««lUiil»i 
 Newman on University Edueation 
 " Office and AVork of 
 
 Unlferiitira - - 
 Newman's Lectures and Essays - 
 Pycroft'l EnRlish Reading - 
 Rich's Diotionarr of Antiquities - 
 Riddle's Latin Dictionariai - 
 Rowton't Debater ... 
 Sir Roger De Corertey • 
 Southey'f Doctor, *o. - 
 Spencer's Sttays . - - - 
 Siow's Training System 
 Thomson's Laws of Thought 
 Trevelyan on the Native Languages 
 
 oflndia 
 
 Wiiite & Riddle's Latin Diotionary 
 WiUich's Popular Tables 
 Wit and Wisdom of Srdney Smith 
 Yonae'i English-Greek Lexicon - 
 
 " Latin Gradus 
 Zumpt'i Latin Grammar 
 
 Natural Hlatoryinseneral. 
 
 Agassis on Clasaification - - 3 
 Catlow's Popular Conchology - 6 
 Ephemera's Book ofthe Salmon - 7 
 Garratt's Marvels of Instinct - 7 
 Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica 8 
 Hartwig's Sen and its LivingWonders 8 
 Kirhy and Spence'e Entomology - 11 
 Lee's Elements of Natural History 12 
 Maunder's Natural Historv . - 15 
 Quatrerage'D Naturalist's Rambles 18 
 Htonehenge on the Dog - 21 
 
 Turton's Shells ofthe British Islands 23 
 Waterton'sEssaysonNataralHift. 23 
 Youatt'a Work on the Dog - . 21 
 " •' Horso - 21 
 
 -Volume Encyclopsedlaa 
 and Dloiionaiiea. 
 
 Blaine's Rural Sports . - . 4 
 Brande's8clenc«,Literature,and Art 1 
 Copland's Dictionary of Medicine - 6 
 Cresy's Civil Engineering . . 6 
 Owilt'e Architecture - - - 8 
 Johnston's Geographical Dictionary 11 
 ■ ■ ■ " ' - 13 
 
 13 
 13 
 13 
 13 
 
 Loudon's Agricnltnre 
 
 " Rural Archilsstnr* 
 
 " Gardening 
 
 " Plants - - 
 
 " Trees and Shinbt . 
 
 M'Culloch'sGeo^raphicalDictionary U 
 
 " DicUonaryofOommerce 14 
 
 Murray'* Ettcyclo. of Oeognphy - 17 
 
 Sharp's British Gaietteer • - 20 
 
 Ure's Dictionary of Arts, Ac- . 23 
 
 Webster's Domtitis Eooitomy - 23 
 
 RellKlona * Moral Works. 
 
 Afternoon of Life - - - - 3 
 
 Amy Herbert - . - - 20 
 
 BloomBeld's Greek Testament - 4 
 
 " Sujiplemeut to ditto 4 
 
 Bray on Education of tha FaeiiDgs 1 
 
 Banyan's Pilgrim's Progress - fi 
 
 Calvert's Wife's Manual - - 5 
 
 Cati and Farlis'i Moral Emblems 6 
 
 CleveHaU 20 
 
 Conybeare and Howion's St. Paul t 
 Cotton's Insttuotions in Christianity 
 
 Dale'e Domestic Liturgy . . 7 
 
 Defiinceof S<lipi«o/Jat(A . . 7 
 
 Earl's Daufhttr (The) ... 20 
 
 Eclipse of Faith .... 7 
 
 Experience (The) of Life - - 20 
 
 Gertrude ..... 20 
 
 Huaro on the Veracity of OtHeih - 9 
 
 Home'* Introduction to Scripture* 9 
 
 " Abridgment of ditto - \» 
 
 Humphreys's ParaUtt Illuminated 10 
 
 or* ; or, the Two Couiins • - 20 
 JaniMoii'* Sacred Legtads - - 10 
 '< Moaaatle teoends . - 10 
 " Legendsof the Madonna 10 
 " Lecture* on Female Em- 
 ployment ... - • 10 
 Jeremy Taylor's Work*- - - 11 
 Katharine Ashton - - - 20 
 
 K6nig's Pictorial Life of Luther - 8 
 LanetoB Pitreonag* - - - 10 
 Lyra Germanica . - - - 6 
 Moguire's Rome - - - -11 
 Margaret Perci'al - - - . 20 
 Harshman'sai.ampor* Mistiott . 15 
 Martineau's Christian Life - .It 
 " Hymne • - - 14 
 
 " Studies of Christianity 14 
 
 Merivalo's Christian Records . 16 
 Moor* on th« Us* of tha Body - 16 
 " «' Soul and Body . 10 
 << '* Man and hi* Motive* . 16 
 Morning Clouds - . . . Ifi 
 Moseleyi* Astro-Theology • - 16 
 Neale's Closing Seen* - - . 17 
 Powell's Christianity without Ju- 
 daism ... - 18 
 " t>rder of Nature - . 18 
 Readings for Lent - ■ - 20 
 "^ Conflrraation . .20 
 Riddle's Household Prayers - 19 
 Robinson's Lexicon to the Gr*«k 
 
 Testament 19 
 
 SehimmelPenninck's Musings - 19 
 
 Self-Examination for Confirmation 20 
 
 Sewell's Historyof tha Early Church '^ 
 
 " Passing Thought* on Religion 20 
 
 Smith'* (Sydney) Moral Philosophy 21 
 
 " (Q.) Wesleyan J ethodlsm 20 
 
 " (J.) St. Paul's Shipwreck - 20 
 
 Southey'g Life of Wesley - - 21 
 
 Spitta's Lyra Domestica - - 21 
 
 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 21 
 
 Theologia Germanica - - . 5 
 
 Thumb Bible (The) - - 23 
 
 Ursula 20 
 
 Poetry and the Drama. 
 
 Aikin's (Dr.) British Poet* . - 
 Arnold's Merope , . 
 
 '< Poem* .... 
 Goldsmith's Fosma, illustrated - 
 L. E. L.'s Poetical Works 
 Linwood'B Anthologia Oxoniensi*. 
 Lyra Germanica . - . - 
 Macaulay's Lays of Ancient Rome 
 MiO Donald's Within and Without 
 " Poem* ... 
 
 Montgomery's Poeticiil Works 
 Moore'* Poetical Works 
 
 '•' SelucUona (illustrated) - 
 " LalURookh - . . 
 " Irish Melodies . . - 
 " National Melodies - 
 " Sacrad Songs (uiit/t if uii'r) 
 " Songs and Ballads . 
 Power's Virginia's Hand 
 Shakspeare, by Bowdler 
 Southey's Poetical Work* 
 Spitta's Lyra Domeatica 
 Thomson's Seasons, illustrated - 
 Warburton's Hunting Songs 
 Wilkine's FoUUcal BaUads - > 
 
 The Sciences in a^eneral 
 and Mathematics. 
 
 Arago'* Meteorological Ea*ayi 
 " Popular Astronomy - 
 Boasc'a Philosophy of Nature 
 Bourne's Catechisna of Steam- 
 
 Engine - - - 
 Boyd's Naval Cadet'* Manual 
 Brandc's Dictionary of Science, ftc, 
 " Lectures on Ur^anioChemistry 
 Conington's Ckeimcal Analysis - 
 Cresy's Civil Engineering 
 De la Rive's Eleetrioity 
 Grove's Correla. of Physical Forces 
 Herschel's Outline* of Astronomy 
 Holland'* UsnUl Phyaiology 
 Humboldt's Aspect* of NatHi* - 
 " Co*ino* ... 
 
 Hunt OB Light .... 
 Lardner'e Cabinit Cyclopadia 
 Msreet'a (Mr*.) ConversatioB* 
 Morell's Element* of Psyoholog; - 
 Moseley's Astro Thaelogy 
 
 " Engineering & Architecture 
 Ogilvie'* Master- Builder's Plan - 
 Owen's Lectureson Comp. Anatomy 
 Pereira on Polarised Light • 
 Peschel's Elements of Fhyaic* 
 Phillip"'* Miaer»lof y ... 
 
 » Guide to QaolooT . 
 Piea'ie's Laboratory cf t^hymical 
 
 Pawell's Unity ofWorld* 
 Ramsay's Olaciars of North Wales 
 
 and Switiarland .... 
 Smee's Electro-Metallurgy • 
 Steam-Engine (The) - 
 Tate on Strength of Materials 
 Twisden'* Examples in Mechanism 
 Webb's Cel*«ti»l Objects for Com - 
 
 mon Telescopes ... 
 
 Rural Sports. 
 
 Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon 
 Blaine's Dictionary of Sport* 
 Cecil's Stable Practice - . . 
 " Stud Farm .... 
 Dead Shot (The) - - . . 
 Ephemera on Angling ... 
 " 's Book of the Salmon • 
 Freeman and Salvin'a Palconry - 
 Hamilton's Reminiscence* of an 
 Old Sportsman .... 
 Hawker's Young Sportsman - 
 Howard's Athletic fixerciie* - 
 The HunUag-Field ... 
 Idle's Hint* on Shooting 
 Pocket and the Stud 
 Practical HoraemaBahip 
 Pycroft's Cricket-Field ... 
 Richardson's Horsemanship . 
 Ronald** Fly-Fi*her'* Entomology 
 Salmuii Fishing in Canada - 
 SUble Talk and Tabla Talk . 
 Stonehenge on th« Dog ... 
 
 " on the Greyhound 
 The Stud, for Practical Furpot** - 
 
 Veterinary Medicine, *c. 
 
 Cecil's Stable Practic* 
 
 " Stud Farm 
 Hunting. Field (The) - 
 Miles's Horse-Shoeing - 
 
 " on the Horse's Foot - 
 Pocket and the Stud 
 Practical Horsemanship 
 Richardson's Horsemanship 
 Stable Talk and Table Talk - 
 Stonehenge on tlie Dog - • 
 Stud(Ti.')) .... 
 Youatt's Work on the Dog - 
 „ ,, Horse 
 
 Winders 18 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 •a 
 23 
 
 6 
 6 
 
 8 
 15 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 18 
 
 8 
 21 
 
 8 
 24 
 21 
 
 Voyages and Travels. 
 
 Baker's Wanderings in Ceylon 
 Barth's African Travel* 
 Burton's East Africa ... 
 " Lake Regions of Central 
 Africa - - - - 
 " Medina and Mecca . 
 Domenech's Texas ... 
 " Deserts of North America 
 Forester's Sardinia and Corsica - 
 Hill's Peru and Mexico - 
 HinchlitPs Travels in the Alps 
 Hind's North American Exploring 
 
 Expeditions- .... 
 Hewitt's Victoria - ... 
 Hue's Chinese Empire ... 
 Hudson and Kennedy's Mont 
 
 Blanc - - - - - 
 
 Humboldt's Aspects of Nature 
 Hutchinson's Western Africa 
 Kane's Wandering* of :;n Artist - 
 Lady's Tour round Monte Rosa - 
 Lowe's Central India in 1857 & 1858 
 M'Clure'a North-West Passage - 
 Minium's New York to Delhi 
 Mollhausen's Journey to the Shores 
 
 ofthe Pacific - - . - 
 Peaks , Passe* , and Glacier* 
 Ramsay's Glaciers of North Wales 
 
 and Swltierlard - - . - 
 Senior's Journal in Turkey and 
 
 Greece ..... 
 Snow's Tierra del Fuego 
 Tennenl ., Ceylon . - 
 Weld's Vacations in Ireland - 
 
 " Highland* and Orcadia 
 
 " Pyrenees .... 
 
 •< UnitedSUtetandCanada- 
 Whiteside's Italy - . . - 
 Wills'* " Eagle's Nest." 
 
 Works of Fiction. 
 
 Cruikthank'* FalaUff ... 
 
 Moore's Epicurean - - - 10 
 
 Sewell's Uiiula - - - . 20 
 
 Simpkinson'a Washington - - 20 
 
 Sir Roger De Coverley - . - 'M 
 
 Sketches (The), Throe Tales . 20 
 
 Southey's The Doctor, *o. • - 21 
 
 Trollope's B*rchatt«r Towers . !«3 
 
 " Warden ... 23 
 
orldi 
 
 18 
 
 >r North Walea 
 
 
 - . . 
 
 18 
 
 allurgr - 
 
 20 
 
 JlatcriaU - 
 
 4 
 21 
 
 ■ in Mechanitin 
 
 23 
 
 jectt for Com - 
 
 
 ■ * - 
 
 23 
 
 >und in Ceylon 
 
 3 
 
 ofSporti 
 
 4 
 
 ice - 
 
 6 
 
 ... 
 
 C 
 
 - 
 
 7 
 
 ng . - . 
 
 7 
 
 r the Salmon • 
 
 7 
 
 a'« f alconrr - 
 ■eenceg of an 
 
 »T 
 
 
 - - - 
 
 8 
 
 Murtiraan - 
 
 9 
 
 Sxercitea - 
 
 10 
 
 « « - 
 
 8 
 
 oting 
 
 11 
 
 d - - - 
 
 H 
 
 uhip 
 
 8 
 
 ield - - - 
 
 18 
 
 >manihlp - 
 
 18 
 
 r'a Entomology 
 
 19 
 
 Canada - 
 
 « 
 
 ible Talk - - 
 
 I 
 
 Dog- - - 
 
 21 
 
 Greytiound 
 UcaiFurpoaei- 
 
 21 
 
 8 
 
 edlelme, *c. 
 
 tic* 
 
 6 
 
 ... 
 
 6 
 
 • ) - - - 
 
 8 
 
 Bins - 
 
 '« Foot - 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 d - - - 
 
 8 
 
 nihlp 
 
 8 
 
 cmanahip 
 
 18 
 
 ible Talk - - 
 
 8 
 
 Dog- . - 
 
 21 
 
 
 8 
 
 the Dog - 
 
 24 
 
 Horae 
 
 24 
 
 Travels. 
 
 
 jt in Ceylon - 
 
 3 
 
 arela 
 
 3 
 
 ca - - - 
 
 S 
 
 ;ions of Central 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 nd Mecca - 
 
 6 
 
 1 - - - 
 
 7 
 
 North Americn 
 
 7 
 
 I and Corsica - 
 
 7 
 
 jxico - 
 
 9 
 
 1 in the Alpa 
 irican Exploring 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 _ 
 
 10 
 
 plre - - - 
 
 10 
 
 ennedj'B Mont 
 
 
 _ _ - - 
 
 10 
 
 ta of Nature - 
 
 10 
 
 tern Africa 
 
 U 
 
 ■t of in Artist - 
 1 Monte Roaa - 
 
 U 
 
 11 
 
 Jia in 1857 & 1858 13 i 
 
 ^^est Paaaage 
 irk to Delhi 
 
 17 
 
 IS 
 
 ney to the Shorea { 
 
 - - . . 
 
 13 
 
 d Olaciera 
 
 17 
 
 1 of North Walca 
 
 
 - - - - 
 
 IB 
 
 in Turkey and 
 
 
 . - - - 
 
 19 
 
 Fuego 
 
 21 
 22 
 
 in Ireland - 
 
 23 
 
 1 and Qrcadia - 
 
 23 
 
 
 23 
 
 itea and Canada- 
 
 23 
 
 . - - 
 
 24 
 
 Neat." - - 
 
 24 
 
 stlon. 
 
 
 lUff - - 
 
 C 
 
 n - - - 
 
 in 
 
 
 20 
 
 shington - 
 
 20 
 
 erley • 
 
 20 
 
 Three Taloa 
 
 20 
 
 ctor,Jfca> - 
 at«r Towers 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 1 . - . 
 
 23 
 
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