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'J & No class of flowers are so well suited for cultivation indoors during our Canadian Winter, as the Hyacinth, Narcissus, Crocus, and other Dutch Bulbs. Their beauty and fragrance well repay the little care necessary for their successful growth. They form alike an ornament for the Drawing Boom, and a comfort and refreshment to the invalid. The trifling cost at which they are sold, places the luxury and ei^oyment of a Winter Garden within the reach of those of limited means. Some attribute their want of success in the cultivation of flowering roots to illuminating gas. An atmosphere sufficiency charged with ga^ to injure flowers, would be highly deleterious to health, and would necessitate the avoidance of a oaiise of so much danger. Flowers are generally placed near a window, where they are not so liable to sufier from the eflcct of gas, tm is commonly supposed. The following directions were prepared to answer in a convenient way, enquiries frequently made by post and otherwise, and if carefully followed, the successful cultivation of flowering Bulbs may be easily attained. 8.J.L. Montreal, November, 1863. The Hyacinth. fTS beauty, fragrance, easy culture and wonderful adaptation for all climates and soils have justly merited for it the appellation of Domestic Flower. It is alike a favorite with the denizens of the city and the dwellers in the country, and as adapted for cultivation in pots and passes, in the house or in beds, patches, edgings or ribbons in the open air. It grows freely in almost any medium capable of retaining moisture, and will generally produce as fine fipikes of bloom when grown m sand, moss or water a«. when planted In ihe riebest compost. Ancient relics and ornaments^ such as rases, bowls, dishes, comucopiai, &o., of whatever sise, shape, or form, from the small omaineiit Huit will hold a Crocus to thatold and once &miliar mlio, the largo fiunily punchrbowl, capable of growing a dozen m BHMi Hyacinths, &c. ; these, filled with moss or sand and planted with various bulbs, while they cherish a sweet remembrance of the past, their occupants full of fresh life and beauty enliven the dull days of winter, and with successive plantings may be made so many con- necting links between the ^orious autumn and the lovely spring. Wire and rustic wwk also play their part, bo the device a simple basket suspended in the conservatory, a pretty Berlin flower-basket on the parlor table or window, or a flower stand terraced or flat, lined or not with zinc, and filled with moss, will grow bulbs to perfection. Zinc, which can readily be formed into any device, may be made to occupy the whole front of a drawing room-window, and if filled with moss or sand according to taste or convenience, and planted with Hyacinths, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Tulips, Polyanthus, Narcis- sus and Dwarf Scillas, would in itself form a complete miniature winter flower garden. The Dutch have another very interesting mode of culture, they take a flat dish, either crystal or porcelain, about the depth of a soup plate, and according to its size, place 3, 6, 9 or 12 strong healthy bulbs in about half an inch of water. In a few days the roots begin to spread out horizontally, and so clasp each other, that in the course of a few weeks, they f Culture of the Hyacinth in Glasses. I F all the plants with which we are acquainted, the Hyacinth is the most suitable for this elegant, although somewhat un> natural system of culture ; and here we would just remark that fiailures may be more generally traced to mistaken kindness than to neglect. Its roots, like those of other plants, shun the light with instinctive care ; therefore, dark-colored glass should be selected. Never ttse spring water ^ym. can get cfeor rain water. Place the bulbs in the gjlasses and fill with rain water so that it barely touches &e bottom of the bulbs, and set them in a dark, oool, dry eellar or eloset. When the bulb rests in the wal«r at onoe, there is slight danger of mooldiness ^isuiii^. Examine then oooasionally, and remove gmtly any soales that may be decaying, but be very carefol not to injure the young roots. When the glasses are moderately filled with roots, whi^ win be the case in three or four weeks, r^ move them to where the plants will reeeive moderate li^t ; ta^ 9ft soon as iiie plants awume a healthy gcwa ccAimf, to the lighesl poonble situatioDi, and where they can have abaiida««e ef fredk air. A close, heated atmosphere is very unfavorable to ^devclc^nmeal of haiidsoBke 8{>ik«i of htoom« ¥^ea in aoAnal gnm^ koep 1lm» as near the glass as conyenient, and turn them occasionally to pre- vent long, weakly, iUnshaped stems ; the water should be changed at least every three weeks, using pure rain water, of about the same temperature as the bulbs may be growing in. The flowers will receive a check if you do not attend to this. A small piece of charcoal will keep the water longer sweet. The bulbs may be set in a tray of soil or moss until the roots are one or two inches long ; where much is done in this way, and glasses are deemed more ornamental than pots, the general collection may be grown in small pots as above, and at any period, even when in ftdl bloom, they may be transferred from the pots to the glasses ; aU that is neces- sary is to procure a pail of water warmed to about 60°, turn the plant out of the pot, place the ball in the water, and gently wash away the soil ; the roots may then be easily placed in the glasses in water, holding a httle manure clear in suspension. When the roots have nearly reached the bottom of the glass, there sometimes collects at the extremity of each a pellicle or covering of mucous matter. This soon stops up the mouths of the roots, by which the food of the plant is conveyed to the leaves. To prevent this the roots should be drawn carefully out of the glasses, and a wide vessel should be placed filled with clean water. In this im- merse the roots of the bulb, and draw the mass carefully through the hand, pressing them gently. Do this two or three times, until the roots are white and clean. Whilst one person is doing this, let another be washing out the glass, and wiping it quite clean and dry. Then gradually work the clean washed roots into the glass, before putting in any water. T^ get them in when numerous it will be found necessary to twist them around until they reach their old c^uarters, and the bulb rests upon the neck of the glass ; then fill the glass with clear rain or soft water, and replace it in the window. One washing will generally be sufficient. After this no more cotq will be necessary, excepting occasionally changing the water. For giving vigor to the plants, and color to the flowers, we know of no better means than to dissolve in a quart of rain water, an ounce of guano, and to pour one teaspoonful of that ii^to each bottle once a fortnight after the flowers, begin to appear. S« care^ q(4 ^ vqw^ the Bmk fihr««. tmmimema tb Culture of the Hyacinth in Pots. 5 OR securing successive blooms, and for using the hyacinth for various styles of decoration, this is by far the most important way of cultivating and developing its beauties. At any stage of growth the plants can be removed from their pots and arranged at pleasure, either in flower baskets, vases, or any of the numerous con- trivances already suggested. To cultivate the Hyacinth success- fully in pots, a free porous soil is indispensable. The compost de- scribed under the head of " Soils " is considered the most desirable. The size of the pot must be regulated by the accommodation and requirements of the cultivator ; for one bulb a four inch pot will grow the Hyacinth well, but one five or five and a half inches will do better ; for three bulbs, a six or seven-mch pot will be suflScient (and here we would remark that Hyacinths cultivated in groups are much more effective than grown singly.) At the bottom, of the pot place over the hole pieces of charcoal, and on this some rough pieces of turfy loam to insure good drainage, then fill the pots with the prepared soil to within an inch of the top, placing the bulb in the centre, or if three at equal distances apart, pressing them well into the soil, and filling up, leaving only the crown of the bulb un- covered ; moderately water and place them on a dry, level bottom of coal-ashes m an open place, and covered over, to the depth of from ax to eight inches above the bulbs, with decayed leaves, sand or old tanner's bark, leaving it rather higher in the centre than at the sides, 80 as to throw off heavy rains ; or a few boards, or a tarpaulin will be useful for the same purpose, as the soil in the pots will absorb as much moisture from the ground as the bulbs require. If placed in sudh a bed from the be^nning of September to the middle of Oc- tober, the bulbs will have a temperature ranging from 60° to 55°, which, in soil not over-wet, will promote a healthy vegetation. In from eight to ten weeks the pots will be crammed with roots, and before that time it is vain to attempt to force them to produce good flower-Btems. The bulbs had been gradually deprived of their moisture the previous summer, and now they must be as gradually supplied with it through healthy roots to secure a healthy flower-stem -^ 11 early m the season. When wanted in ftill bloom by Christmas and the New Year, those pots full of roots, and showing the flower-truss through the incipient leaves, should be selected, placed at first in a shaidy part of a greenhouse, so that the blanched foliage may not be hurt, and in a few days removed to a forcing pit, where a mild bottom heat can be given to the plunged pots of from 70° to TS**, and a top heat of from 60^ to 66". Here the plants must be gently shaded until the leaves become quite green. The pots, though plunged, should be set upon slates, boards, or anything that will prevent the roots from entering the plunging medium, whether tan, leaves, &c., &c. The bottom heat is a great means of success at this early period. Until moved from the bed, very little watering will be needed. The flower-truss is apt to come too close, the stem not growing long enough at this early period to let the flowrets expand ; an empty flower-pot placed on the top of the other will tend to remedy this ; we prefer, however, funnels of paper, say eight inches in length, placed over the pot ; if after this the flower-stem should still be too dumpy, give a few degrees more top heat for a few days. Whenever the stem shows the least sign of being too much drawn, so as to leave an excess of room between the individual flowers, gradually lower the temperature in which the plants are placed ; when the flower-stem and leaves are all that could be desired, and the flowers are approaching the open- ing, raise the pots out of the plunging medium, and even keep cooler by more air ; now the bulbs will require a free supply of water. After the pots have stood on the surface of the bed for a few days, remove them to the greenhouse or sitting-room ; man- ure-waterings and a rich top dressing will generally keep them in longer luxuriance. To have blooms in March and onwards, little of this extra care is necessary ; the chief extra treatment required may be the paper funnel. When the pots are brought from the bed or the cellar, keep shaded until the leaves get green, and then place them on the greenhouse shelf, or parlor window ; in all cases, healthy rooting must precede fine blooming. In the case of those who have no means of covering up their pots in a bed, or even a cellar in which to place them without covering, the bulbs may be grown in any sitting or dining-room in the same way, requiring only «*= ^^ i ftiaaiiL 19 ^t a danp atmosphere should be kept about them ; and light ia Bot wanted until they are progressing freely ; the bulbs, when potted, will do well in the bottom of a cupboard, if set in damp moss or anything of that kin4, and a small portion of the same sprinkled over them ; they dislike at first the dry air of a sittmg-room ; if the floor of the cupboard is sprinkled frequently, that will be suf- ficient ; great success depends generally on trifles, and to keep a damp atmosphere about the bulbs at first is far better then delu^^ the pots wiUi water. Culture of the Hyacinth in Beds. fHE aspect most advantageous must be open, airy, and at the same time well sheltered from northerly and easterly winds. The plants should have the benefit of the sunshine during the whole day, at least until the time of flowering, when they will remain in flower much longer if shaded from the noonday sun. For a bed of the new and choicer varieties, the bed should be prepared as directed under the head of Soil — ^but for the more common varieties any well-drained garden soil is easily rendered suitable for the growth of the Hyacinth. If the soil is of a strong, adhesive nature, add two inches of sharp sand, and as much well- decayed manure ; then dig the soil two feet deep with a steel fork, taking care nicely to mix the sand and manure with the soil as the work proceeds. Friable loamy soils will require merely a liberal dressing of manure and deep dig^g ; and it will be found that the Hyacinth will produce equally fine spikes of blossom grown in, soil prepared thus, as when planted in more expensive composts. The season for planting Hyacinths in beds, in the open air,, is from September until the frost prevents working the soil. Select a dry day for putting in the bulbs ; and if the same be chosen fbr the preparation of the soil, it will be in much better conditiou for the growth of the plant than if worked when wftt. Plant in Bnes, eight inches by ten inches part, which will afford space between the plants, when up, to work a hoe, for the destruction of weeds, and keepbg the surface friable, to prevent the escape of moisture in dry weather. The crowns of the bulb? should be four inches under the surfiEMM of the soil. r 18 t:| Treatment after Flowering* V^ULBS in glaesea elioiild be transferred to sandy loam and J[^ leaf-mould, and watered freely sa long as the leaves remain green ; the bulbs, however, will have been so exhausted from living and flowering upon their stored-up supplies as to want severa] seasons' growth in soil before they are fit to be forced or grown agfun in water. Those grown early in pots mast have the leaves as car^" fblly kept from frost as the flower-stems were secured previously. The main late crops will need only the protection of an evergreen branch out of doors. When the leaves be^ to turn yellow, the bulbs will absorb as much moisture from the ground on which they stand as is needful. When those in beds begb to turn yellow, stay watering, soon raise the bulbs carefully and lay them down in rows, covering the roots with two or tliree mches of soil, that the fibree may die gradually whilst the bulb gets a good deal of sun. In tdn days the bulbs may be removed to a shed, and m ei^t days more, deaned and stored away in a dry place in bags, drawers, or dry sand until planting-time in the autumn. Fme massive displays of Hyacinth blooms may be had in beds and otherwise where the bulbs have remained untouched for half a dozen years. When such ft plan is adopted with Hyacinths, and the grouping plan also attempted, the rows of Hyacmths should be at least a foot apart, so that the bedding plants may be placed between them even wben the leaves are yet green. In all general cases, however, it is flar preferable that the bed be thoroughly dug and aerated annually. In selecting Hyacinths, the Single are recommended as best for growth in Water, Moss or Sand. The spikes are stronger and the colors more distinct and varied than the Double. Narcissus. fHIS fragrant flower is cultivated m the same manner as the Hyacinth. The Jonqnill. fHEBE are two varieties of this flower, the Double and Single. Being a snutller bulb than the Hyacmth, more may be plftntod in each pot. The cultivation is the same. 14 The IriB. JHE great variety of this flower renders it very desirable to cultivate. It should be planted in the fall. The Persian Iris is remarkable for its fragrance, and the beauty and distinctness of its colors. Tulips. fHE Due Van Tholl, Early Parrot, a**^! Toumesol, are the only sorts which succeed well indoors ; all the other kinds should be planted in the Fall, in the same manner as the Hyacinth. oc:^ Crocus. |LANT in the open ground, in October or November, prefer- ring deep, light, rich, sandy soil ; but the Crocus will thrive in any ordinary soil or situation. In planting, the bulbs should be covered from two to three inches with fine mould ; and not more than two inches apart. For edging borders and beds, the Crocus is also exceedingl yusefiil ; and where planted in lines along the margin of walks, or in clumps of 3, 6, 12 or more bulbs each, and allowed to remain in the ground for several years, the effect of the immense masses of flower which they produce, is all that can be desired. A very effective display in a flower-garden, in March, may be produced by each bed having a broad ed^ng of Crocus, the colors being nicely arranged and contrasted. This may be secured without interfering with either the Spring or Summer occupants ; for the bulbs may be planted close to the outside of the bed, were they will scarcely be in the way, either in digging or in planting. Unless the bulbs become too numerous, and the leaves spread over more space than it may be desirable to have covered with them, they should not be disturbed, as they bloom more pro- fusely when well established. Care must be exercised, however, to protect the bulbs from mice, as they are exceedingly partial to them, especially in Winter. ^ 16 ^ Culture of the Crocus in Pots, Vases, Baskets, ^. JOR blooming indoors, either in pots or in any of the various contrivances that are used instead of pots, strong bulbs should be selected, planting them in succession, commencing as early in autumn as they can be procured. For pot culture use good rich sandy soil, and secure perfect drainage ; a liberal supply of water being necessary during the blooming season ; therefore any defect in the drainage would cause the soil to become sodden. Planted in china bowls, saucers, etc., filled with moss or sand, drainage is unnecessary, but on no account should the moss or sand ever be allowed to get dry. Treatment same as recommended for Hyacinths in sand or moss. Lilium Lancifolium, or Japan Lily. jO flowering bulb succeeds better in Canada than the Japan Lily. The wonderful beauty of the flower, the tall noble stems supporting six or eight blooms, render it one of the most at- tractive ornaments of the garden. It should be planted like the Hyacinth, in the Fall ; and for its better protection from the severity of the frost, scatter a few inches of litter over the bed. The spikes should be neatly tied up to sticks wiih tieing bark, otherwise the wind is apt to break them off. The Japan Lilly may also be grown in pots. There are three good varieties, viz : Lilium Lancifolium Album. " « Rubrum. " " Roseum. When the bud is nearly ready to bloom, if the stalk is cut off and placed in water in the house, the flower will open out. Ranunculus. mf|HIS beautiful flower has been much neglected in consequence ^J^ of the diflSculty of cultivation. A little care in observing the directions, and the most successful result will follow. The roots should be kept during the winter in a cool airy situation, well packed in sand. They should he planted out as early as possible n May, and freely watered daily during dry weather. la Anemone. fHIS is one of the finest flowers of the garden, and although rare in Canada, is one of easy cultivation. It blooms pro- ta&ely until the fco6t sets in. The Anemone delights in a rioh Sandy loam rather moist, tt should be daily watered in diy Weather. The time for planting is early in May. If the roots are BOaked in water for a few hours, it will better secure theur growth. They succeed best in a rioh loam, but will thrive in any weH- tlrained good garden soil. The bed, if possible, should slant due south. Sand mixed with the scnl is a good prevendve to mildew. If planted in beds, the rows should be six inches apaitt, the tubers placed six inches in the rows and two inches deep. In clumps they produce a very striking effect, but as an edging they are most attractive, especially the scarlet varieties, double and angle. The anemone in twelve varieties has been successfully grown in Montreal for three years, and although it is generolly supposed the climate is unsuitable, if the directions are followed the florist will be rewarded with blooms, which will amply repay the little care neceft- ■aiy for success. Like the Ranunculus, the roots must be taken up in the ^ and packed in sand for the winter. Snow Drops, Crown Imperials, Frittelarias and Sdlls, should be planted in the fall, and will bloom in early spring. Gladiolus. fHIS is now very generally cultivated. Its great variety, its brilliant colors, its striking appearance and eafly cultivation, renders it one of the most popular of the garden flowers. To secure a succession of blooms, commence to plant as early as possible in spring, and Set out a few every week. Indeed it may be forced n a frame and transplanted carefully in the open ground. A good sandy loam answers best. Plant about two inches deep, and when ithey have grown a few inches, heap the soil about the bulb to pre- vent it ridng above the ground. Tie with bass bark to neat stieks to prevent injury from the wind. When the leaves fade, take t^ the bulb and put away for the winter in a diy cellar. Some floriitB allow the bulbs to tettmn b the ground over winter, bat it is alwa;fB attended with risk ttom frost. 17 Tigridia or Tiger Flower, fHIS singular plant well deserves its name. Its colors are most luilliant and dazzling. It opens its flowers in the morning and closes at night. The Tiger flower should be planted in Spring in beds in a soil similar to the Hyacinth, and, like the Gladiolus, must be taken up in the fall. Tritomas. fHIS splendid late flowering plant is comparatively new. It sends up a spike four feet high, at the extremity of which are flame colored flower tubes. It should be planted in a deep rich soil, and must be well protected during the winter ; indeed, it is much safer to take up and plant in sand till spring. Dielytra Spectabilis. NE of our most graceful and beautiful spring and pommer flowering plants, equally at home in the conservatory, sitting- room and flower border. In the two former, it may be had in bloom very early in the spring, when its delicate green leaves, and long, elegant sprays of the most beautiful, heart-shaped, red flowers, make it the most interesting plant of the season. May be planted in the fall or early spring, in the open ground. Bazella Tuberosa, £% OMMONLY called Madeira Vine, is one of the best climbers. ^[^ It is free from insects, and retains its fresh green glossy leaves until the frost. The flower resembles the Mignonette in fragrance. The roots should be taken up m the fall and packed away in sand. It is best to start the vine in a frame, but it will grow well in any soU. Cyclamen. fHIS beautiful flower, very appropriately called " angels* wings'* is one of the most charming plants which adorn the greenhouse. Its fine green leaves and its fairy-like, graceful, and pretty little flowers, render it a great favorite. The Cyclamen may be planted in the same soil as the Hyacinth and placed in a window with good exposure. 18 Tuberose. fHIS fragrant flower may be cultivated in Canada, but requires ^ little management to secure good blooms. The Bulb should be planted in pots either in-doors or in a frame or greenhouse earlj in April, when all danger of the spring frosts is past it may then bo removed to the garden. The stalk rises to a height of four feet and requires tying with bark — the Tuberose must have the best of soils. The fragrance of the Tuberose is very remarkable, one single bloom will suffice to perfume a large apartment ; combined with Violets and Geranium leaves it forms a bouquet of most exquisite perfume. No one who once cultivates the Tuberose will fiEul of having this simple yet beautiful and fragrant flower. The bulbs should be taken up in the fall and packed in sand and placed in a dry cellar.