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ata

slure,

[part ii]

No. U.

REPORT OF WM. OGILVIE.

MXPLOBATION SUaVET OP THB TUKON BIVKE DISTRICT. "^ ° '

Sir, — I have the honor to Bubmit the following preliminary report of the opra-
tions of ray exploration Borvey of the Yukon Biver Distriot.

In aocordance with yoar instructions, dated the I6th of April, 188*7, I left Ottawa
on April the 20th and arrived in Victoria, B.C., on the 2nd of May. I at once pro-
eroded to make arrangements for tavelling to the scene of ray survey, and hired six
men to accompany me, three being required for the survey proper and three for
transporting supplies.

Wo left Victoria on the afternoon of the 12th of May, on the Pacific Steamahip
Company's steamer " Ancon," which was so heavily laden that I had considerable
difScuity in pursuading the captain to take on board my freight, and party.

Our trip was a very slow one, we did not reach Juneau City, Alaska, until tho
night of the 19th of May, and next day the steamer, instead of going to Ohilkoot, as
we had understood she would do, proceeded to Sitka, where wo remained for a day.
Fart of another day was spent at Kilisnoo, so that we did not arrive at Chilkoot until
the i!4th of May.

At this point £ made preparations for commend ni:; my survey, but owing to wet,
stormy weather three days were lost. I then got the survey started from Pyramid
Island, in Chilkoot Inlet, a point determined by the United Slates Coast Survey.

From this point I carried ihr^ survey across the inlet, and thonce up it, and
Taiya Inlet, and the valley of the Taiya River, to the Chilkoot or Taiya Pass through
the coast range of mountains.

I here detailed one of my party (Captain Moore) to explore a pass a short dis*
tanco south of the Chilkoot Pass ; this route loaves Taiya Inlet about two miles from
its head and fbllows up the valley of the Skaghway River to its source, and thence
down the valley of a stream which empties into Lake Tahko.

Captain Mooie reports this pass as being much lower than the Chilkoot Pass,
»nd he thinks it is not any highei at the summit than Lake Lindeman. It is timbered
throughout, and he estimates the distance from tide water to the summit at eighteen
miles, and from the summit to Lake Tahko at about twenty*two to. twenty-
four mites. He has had considerable experience in mountain trails, having built
the Government trail in Cassiar district, Brtish Columbi:;, and ho thinks a trail oould
be built through this pass much more easily than the one constructed in Casdiar
district, and a waggon road more easily than the one constructed through the canyon
of the Fraser River.

I believe that this pass has not been named, and think that the party I sent
through wore the first white men who ever travelled throuirh it ; I have tberefora
taken the liberty of naming it the " White Pass," afi;er the Uonorable the Minister
of the Interior, and I hope the name will be retained.

Some seventeen mi!)erB passed into the interior by the .Chilkoot Pass while I
was in that vicinity.

The Chilkoot Indians claim the exclusive privilege of packing goods over Ohilkoot
Pass, and they demanded $20 per hundred pounds to transport my supplies from
the head of tide water to the nead of the Lewis River. I made an agreement with
them to pack my outfit and supplies to the summit of the Pass for 110 per hundred
pounds, and from there I arranged with my own party, assisted by some iuterior

[part ii]

the opra-

\ Ottawa
onco pro-
hired six
;hroe for

teamahip
leidorable

nntil the
ilkoot, as
for a day.
coot until

If; to wet^
Pyramid
rvey.
ip it, and
3 through

short dia-
iiles from
ad thence

coot Pass,
timbered
; eighteen
twenty-
ring built
rail oould
n Castiiar
le canyon

rty I sent
tboreforo
I Miniiiter

BS while I

rOhilkoot
)liea from
nent with
hundred
le interior

Canadiflti Indians, to transport our goods to the lakes, at a cost of t3 per hundred
poiiiids, making a total cost of $13 per hundred pounds for the same distance for
wbi' h the Chilkoot Indians wanted S:^0.

To assist in moving supplies, &g., I purchased some sledges on the Taiya Eiver.
Fortunately for the success of this expedition the United States steamer "Pintra" was
lying at the head of the inlet when I arrived, and her commander, Captain Newell,
showed me every kindness and consideration, and did everything in his power to
make things smooth with the Indians. He saw "Clenat," the chief of the packers,
several times, and told him that though he had not the power to fix his prices for

I)acking, he thought he was charging too much, and that it would result in his
Obin^ his carrying trade, as he would force white men to seek tome other route
into the interior.

He also told him that he must not in any way interfere with white man doing
their owr packing, as he was reported to have done, or molest any of those whom
they might employ to pack for thorn, and assured him that I had a permit from
Washington to pass safely through the country, and that he would see that I did bo.

Captain Newell promised me that liis vessel would remain at the head of the
inlet until he heard that the Indians b?d satisfactorily carried out their agree-
moiit, and had returned to the inlet.

By the 8th of Juno my supplies and outfit were all carried to the summit of the
Chilkoot Pass; the weather then became slotmy and the Indians would not work for
some days, aO that it was the 2Tth of June bctore I got everything down to the firbt
lake.

I tried packing with my own party, and succeeded in getting a quantity of
supplies down, but tiie toft vol snow soon i:iskI the men up; at one time only two
men and myself were fit to do anything. 1 worked as hard as any of them, but was
better provided with foolweiii-.

A good deal of difBoul'y was experienced in carrying'the survey across the moin>
lairs, but I am glad to fay it was Huoccssfully accomjilishod. I had. however, to use
some very long sights, one of which was six miles in length. In thtte cases I used
a long base for the micrometer moasuromo'its (in the case cited one of 188 links wtis
used), and it is gratifying to uotci that tho li3ni;tb deduced from the long base differed
very little from that given by the 2U link bsifc.

I find the distances, allitudoH ana doscrip'ions of tho Chilkoot Pa-s, as given by
Sthwatkti, considerably in error, and tlio (iantrcr-i desdibod by him rather fanciful ;
the most disugreeablo things wo oxpciicrt ed in travoliii g throi f^h tho pass were the
rain a» d snow which (oil uimo>l cuiitiiiuoiibly wLm* we were there.

Be^'iiining I'lom tho summit of Chilk'Ot Pu8(* w.i de-ccnd about one-third of a
mile to Crater Luke, tho tall in thut di^tl;rico being by barometer 367 feet. At four
and one-half miles from tho summit Mountain Lake, which is about one and a half
miles in lomtth, is reached, the tall in tiiis distamo being about 575 feet, At this
point the tiisl trees on tho north east sidj of the summit are seen, but they are of no
importance, being small and of stunted growth.

About on»! hundred yuris from Mountain Lake, Canyon Lake is roach<'d. This
lake is about one milo lon<j, and ihoro is (]uito a stream running out of it, whieh flow ■«
for some distaneo through a narrow canyon with a very rapid fall and emplios into
Ltiko Litideman.

At tho foot of Canyon Lak») wo get into wh it miy bo called timbor. The trees
are small, but numerous, and cor sist chiefly of spruco, piteh-pino and balsam. They
are, however, of very litth^ uso oxcipt lor iuol.

At twonty-threo and a-half miles trom salt water we roach Lake Lindeman. Tho
distances betwoon this point and tho hoad of eanoo navii^ation, as determined by nio,
are as IoIIowk, e.xpiesHed in miles and decimals of a milo : —

From heail of inlet to — Mir.Ks.

Uoad ot canoe navi^;ation <>()0

ibiksTiiiya Uivor 8 ..0

Hiirnniit of puss 1.^) lo

Liiiuling on Lake Lindeman.,, , 'Zy'ib

11-5**

[part IIJ

From the eammit to Lake Lindeman there is a descent, approximately, by my
barometer observatioDS, of 1,237 feet.

I append the readings of the barometer from salt water up to the summit of
Chilkoot PaiiS, and daring three days at the summit. There are no siraaltaneoas
readings at the coast, which leaves the correct altitude, as far as it can be determined
by my barometer readings, a matter of uncertainty; but while making the survey
from the head of canoe navigation on the Taiya Biver, I took the angles of eleva-
tion of each station up to the summit, and the angles of depresi^ioD from the station
at the summit down to Lake Benuet, so that I can from these determine very closely
the altitude of the summit. This I have not yet had time to do, bat will do so wh^n
I go into winter quarters.

On the 12th of July I had finished all my preparations for the descent of the
river, and started the survey proper from the point on Lake Lindeman above men-
tioned. This lake is about live miles long, about four of which lie on the line of
travel into the interior.

At twenty-eight and one-half rabies from salt water we reach the head of Lake
Bennet, of Sobwatka. Between it and Lake Lindeman there is a portage of aboat
three quarters of a mile in length, the river being rough, narrow and crooked.

The upper end of ijake Bonnet is bounded by high mountains, and there is some
timber near the head of the lake, then little or none except in the ravines, until the
middle of its length is reached, when the lake widens out to about twice the width
of the upper end. Here we find flats and valleys ; in the latter numerous large
spruce trees were noticed, bu^ they are covered from the ground up with large limM
which render them almost unfit toi use.

About eighteen miles down Lake Bernet we reach the mouth of a large arm of
the lake. It extends in a south- wee>terly diiection, and is said by the Indians to head
about fifteen miles away in the glacier, from which the westerly fork of the Tuiya
River takes its source. At its junction this arm of the lake is about one mile wide,
and as far as could be seen up it (about eight miles) it is bordered by high moun-
tains. This arm is named by Schwalka on his map the " Wheaton River."

There is little or no timber of any value at tLd lower end of Lake Bennet, where
there is an extensive sandy fiat, called by the minern, " Cariboo Crossing."

A short distance below Lake Bennet we enter Lake Nares, as named by Schwutka.
This lake is shallow, with muddy fiat shores on the west side, covered with nrnall
scrubby timber. On the east side, the bank is higher and the timber of better
quality ; but there is none of commercial value, even were there a cheap way of
getting it out.

Passing through Lake Nares and Bow of Schwatka, the latter really a part of
Tahko Lake, wo reach the mouth of the " windy " arm of Tahko Lake, which I
understood the Indians to call Takone.

l:ieventy-four and a-halt miles from salt water, we reach the lower end of Tahko
Lake, and reach what may be called the river proper. Here it has the volume and
character of a river, being about 200 yards wide and from 6 to 1:^ feet deep. The
country bordering the river is low.

At IV^ miles we reach Lake Marsh of Schwatka and Lake of the liines. The
immediate shore on the we»t side of this lake is flat and swampy, with some small
timber, and the water near this shore is shallow. The easterly shore appears to be
better, the hilld rise at once from it and slope gently back to the mountains. Oa
the west side it is olten many miles back from the lake before a hill of any height
is reached.

We enter the river again at ')9 miles from saltwater. The country along th«
shores is hilly, aomettmos rooky, and covered with small timber, oonsisiinff ohiefly
of spruce, poplar, pitch pine and birch, but very little of it U fit for anything bat
fuel.

The river is from 150 to 200 yards wide, with a oarrent of aboat four miles ua
hoar; it is generally very crooked.

[PABT II]

y, by my

ammit of
iltaneons
termined
le aarvey
of eleva-
te station
■y closely
) BO whba

nt of the
ovd men-
,he line of

of Lake
of aboat
[ed.

re is some
, uDtil the
the width
■ouB lar^e
irge limM

■ge arm of
na to head
the Tuiya
milu witle,
gb moun-

net, where

Schwutka.
vith Hrnall
r of botlor
ip way of

■ a part of
:e, which I

I of Tahko
'olume and
ieep. Tho

ines. The
some small
lears to be
tainH. Ob
,ny height

' along the
ins ohiefly
ytning bat

r mileB am

At 125 miles from salt water, the oanyon is reached^ At this point the river
flows through a fissare in a barrier of basaltic rock, which intersects its coarse.

The canyon proper is about five-eights of a mile long and about 100 feet wide,
with perpendicular walls from 60 to 80 feet high. The current through it is swift,
and the water rough, but with a fairly large boat the only risk in running through it
would be from contact with the sides, in which case one would be certain to come to
grief. The passage through is made in from three to four minutes. About half
way through the canyon there is a basin of about one eighth of a mile in length and
the t^ame in width.

Below the canyon the river assumes its original character, the banks being low,
sandy and gravelly flats. The river is shallow and rapid, with a few scattered
boulders, which do not appear above the water, bat are too high to allow of boats
passing safely over them.

The canyon and its rapids are altogether two and three-otuarter miles long. The
last rapid, which is three-eighths of a mile in length, is a bad one, and we had to
portage everything round it, and let our boat down with ropes from the shore. This
rapid is called by the miners the " vV bite Horso," from the fact that nearly all the
water is white with foam. Several parties buve run through the rapid on rafts^ and
one or two in boats, but few want to repeat the trip.

The total f ill from the head of tho canyon to tho foot of the " White Horse '*
rapid, is thirty two feet (deduced from the angles of elevations of each station from
the preceding or succeeding one.")

At 142^ miles from the head of the inlet, the Tahkheena Eiver flows into the
Lewis from the south-west ; at the junction it appears nearly as large a river as the
Lewis.

The water of the Tahkheena is quite muddy.and it changes the color of the water
in the Lewis for some distance below its entrance.

Looking up the valley of the Tahkheena f;-om its mouth, many snow-covered
mountains are seen ; bat in the immediate vicinity of the main river the surrounding
hills and ridges are piincipally gravel and sund, covered with small poplar and spruce.

One hundred and fifty-tive and ahalf miles brings us to Lake Lebarge, which is
31f miles long, and ranges from about two to four and a-balf miles in width.

The general character of the river valley, from ihc canyon to Lake Lebarge, is
hilly; the hills close to the river consisting mostly of sand and gravel bluffs, with
rocks and mountains in the distance.

Tho easterly shore of Lake Lebarge is generally rooky and steep, in many cases
we might s&y mountainous. The hills on the westerly shore are lower and are
better timbured, und tho rooks are of a more shaly nature.

The junction of Newberry River (Hoot-alinqaa of rivers) which flows from the
south east, and the Lewis, is reached at '<i\.^^ miles from tide water.

From the foot of Luke Lebarge to this point the Lewis ia narrow and swift, ia
many p)a",e8 amounting almost to rapids ; the valley is narrow with high rocky hills
on both sides.

The water of the Newberry is a dark brown, while that of the Lewis is blue ;
half a mile below the junction two-thirds of the water of the combined streams is
brown, and at a mile it is all brown, and hardly diatirguishable from the water of
the Newberry.

Thirty-four miles bolow the mouth of the Newberry and 253^ miles from salt
water, the iii<^ Salmon River enters the Lewis from the east. This river ia about
100 yards wide and is shallow at the mouth, its %\m9 would not seem to indicate any
great length. Looking up the valley of the Big Salmon a distant view is had of many
mountain peaks covered with snow, tho presence of which at this aoaaon of the year
is proof of considerable altitude.

011^ The Little Salmon River enters the Lewis from the north-oast 36| miles below
the mouth of the Big Salmon ; it is aboat 60 yards wide at its moath and tho water
is shallow with very little current.

L'4bX} i j

«8

[part ii]

At 350| miles from the head of the Inlet Bink, rapida are pasBed. These rapids
were named by the early minors on the river the " Five Fingers," from the fact that
five masses of rock stand in mid-ohannel and oanse the rapid.

The river at this point has forced its way through a barrier of very coarse con-
glomerate rock, which appears to be of very recent geological age. This formation
is also seen along the river for some distance above and below the rapid. About six
miles above the rapid I found a seam of coal on the bank of the river associated with
a soft sandstone bearing many plant impressions.

About six miles below Bink Bapidd, what Schwatka calls the Small Bapids are
reached. At this point a soft shale crops out with traces of lignite through it.

Neither Bink Bapids nor the latter mentioned Small Bapids would be much
obstruction to steamboat navigation ; they might cause a little delay during high
water, and at that time Bink Bapids might have to be " lined " up by boats of small
power.

The Pelly Biver which flows into the Lewis at Fort Selkirk, 410 miles from the
Inlet, was reached on the morning of the 13th of August, and at this point I met Dr.
Dawson, of the Geological Survey, who had arrived on the 11th.

The volume of the Pelly Biver at its mouth is apparently less than the Lewis,
and it is only about 200 yards wide, whereas the Lewis is from 400 to 600 yards in
width above its confluence.

One
any coui
fled som(

All

tThe Sur
D

General Bxmarks.

On all the length of the Lewis Biver very little timber that would be serviceable
for building boats of any sire oan be found, on some of the islands below the mouth
of the Newbrrry, a few treee of fair size could be had, some were seen which were
from 12 to 18 inches in diameter, but I noticed none exceeding 2 feet; they are
very tall and straight.

Mines and Mining.

I believe that valuable leads of quartz will bo found in the upper waters of the
rivers, but an yet no thoroiigh search for such has been mode. One proHpoctor found
quartz on one of the upper lakes which ho had assayed in San Francisco; it yielded
$8.88 of go' J per ton, and 92 cents of silver.

Gold is found almost any whore on the bars and banks along the Lewis below the
mouth ot tho Newberry. One minor who had prospected the latter mentioned
stream told rao ho found numorouH diggings which would yield $10 per day, but that
is not considered pay in this country, owing to the shortness of the season and the
cost of getting in and out.

On tho Lewis many diggingfl have been located which would yield more than
$10 a d.iy with pioper appliances, but prospectors hurry further down to find richer
diggings, or coarHor gold as they call it.

At I'l'orlyMilc Creek, to called from tho fact of its being forty miles below Fort
Beliancc, coarse gold has been found. Some of tho miners at this point have been
very fsuccossful, one party I mot took out 81,100 worth of gold in eleven days, and
another 8-iOi) worth in a day .ind a half, but many did not got enough to cover
exponHcs.

Some minors I mot at Ciissiai-bar (27^ miles below tho mouth of tho Nowborry)
took about 8fi, 000 worth of gold out of it last year in thirty days, they said jt yielded
$30 a day per man, which lor " pan " and " rocks " wawhing i.s a very large return.

I have no doubL that many hucIi bars will bo found on the 1 owborry and Lewis,
1 ut at i)roscnt Forty Mile Creek in all tho cry and very few miners remain on the
upper river.

Thoro are this season about three hundred minors in tho country, of which
number about two hundred and fifty arc workirg ,.t Forty-Mile Crook.

[fart ii]

hese rapids
16 fact that

coarse oon-

8 formation

About six

wiated with

1 Kapids are
gh it.

lid be mnch
during high
)ats of small

[es from the
at I met Dr.

n the Lewis,
600 yards in

e serviceable

w the mouth

which were

let ; they are

waters of the
spootor found i
!0 ; it yielded ;

wis bolow the
jr mentioned
day, but that
oasun and the

aid more than
to find richer

les below Fort
)int have been
vcn days, and
3ngh to cover

le Newberry)
said it yielded
large return,
ry and Lewis,
remain on the

itry, of which

One old and experienced miner whom I met told me ^hf /« Jad jever seen
any country in which the indications were more promising, and that he was satis-
TZ Sme Very « rich finds " would yet be made in our territories.

All of which is respectfully submitted.

I have the honour to be Sir,

Your obedient servant,

WM. OGILVIB, DJ^.S.

The Surveyor-General,

Department of the Interior,
Ottawa.

[fart u]

Babometkb Beadings taken daring the survey of the Taiay Biver and Pass,

Season 1887.

Time.

D«T.

Junes.,

do 10

doll

do 12

do la

do 13

Hrs. Mb.

7.20

p.m..

7.20

a.m..

9.30

p.m«

7.00

a.m..

b.OO

a.m..

6.30

a.m..

10.00

p.m..

6.00

a.m.

6.00

p.m..

8.45

p m.

7.00

a.m..

8.00

a.m..

8. CO

a.m..

10.15

a.m_

7.36

p.m..

8.00

a.m..

2.00

p.m..

Noon

Place.

A short distance aboTe salt water or higb

tide and about 15 ft. abore low tide

do dc

do do

Head of canoe navigation, Taiay River

do do

In valley of canjon ~

Sheep camp

Near timber limit in Taiay Pass

do do

At stone-house >

Entrance to upper canyon

Summit of Pass . ..~

do -

«» •

29-974

29 •726

29 -948

29-863

29-782

29 -803

29-220

28-791

28-848

28-860

28-699

28-626

28-399

64-5

27-678

26-330

46-6

26 -277

26 -264

26-247

26-129

38-6

Remarks.

Clear and warm.

■^^<>:

Windy.

do
Windy and rainy.

«>MTSTE:.LiAi

WM. OGILVIB,

Dominion Land Surveyor,

IPasB,

itemarks.

aad warm.

y and rainy.

Surveyor.