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NEW BRUNSWICK;

§LoU^ €ot iSmtatant0<

COMPREIIKNDINQTHE EARLY HISTORY.AN ACCOUNT OF THE INniANS, HETTI E
MENT, TOPOOUAPHY, STATISTICS, COMMERCE, TIMUKU, M ANUFACTUllE^J,
AGRICULTURE, FISHERIES, GE0LO(3Y, NATURAL HISTORY, SOCIAL
AND POLITICAL STATE, IMMIGRANTS, AND CONTEM-
PLATED RAILWAYS OF THAT PROVINCE.

/(.

I
I

BY ABRAHAM GESNER, ESQ.

SURGEON;

rELLOW OP THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON; COURESPONDING MEMBEIl OF THE

ROYAL GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OP CORNWALL; MEMBER 01' THK LITl.llAltV AND

HISTORICAL SOCIETY OP UUEBEC; CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE

ACADEMY OP NATURAL SCIENCES OP PHILADELPHIA; AUTHOR

OF "REMARKS ON THE GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY

OP NOVA SCOTIA," ETC.

LONDON: SIMMONDS & WARD,

6, BARGE YARD, BUCKLERSBURY.

1847.

Pflf^P ■

LONDON :
PRINTED BY H. I. STEVENS, PHILPOT LANE, FENCHUnCH STREET.

C^' ^^

PREFACE.

ITREET.

The Author of the Work now submitted to tlie public was
employed by the Government of New Brunswick five years in
making a Geological Survey of that Province. During that
period, he had the most favourable opportunities of making him-
self acquainted with the climate, topography and resources of
the country, and also with the habits and industry of its inha-
bitants. His Geological Reports, published by the Provincial
Legislature, were necessarily devoted to science, and to the
description of the mineral wealth of the Province : the present
Work embraces all the information acquired during the per-
formance of the above public service, and will be found to con-
tain, with a brief history, a full description of the Colony.

No previous Work of the kind has ever appeared. New
Brunswick formed a part of ancient Acadia, or Nova Scotia,
until 1784, when it was made a separate Province; and in the
general Histories of North America, it has not been noticed in
a degree equal to its present importance and value as a part of
Her Majesty's Colonial Possessions.

With but a very imperfect knowledge of the country, some
writers have pronounced its climate to be rather unfavourable
to the health of Europeans, its seasons too cold for vegetation,
and its atmosphere involved in dense fogs. To correct these
and similar errors is an object of much importance, and to lay

I'RKFACE.

before the British Puhlic, for wliom this Work is chiefly de-
sif^iK'd, a correct account of tlie Province, the resources of which
offer & vide field for Emigration, and the advantageous employ-
ment of British capital cannot fail to be useful to the country
itself, ar.d to the Empire of which it forms a part.

The value and resources of tl;o British North American Colo-
nies arc still imperfectly known : their vast extent, the variety
of climate, and the almost unexplored forests, will constantly
yield some new and valuable objects of enterprise to which the
energies of the redundant population and dormant wealth of the
Mother-country may be applied, and thereby increase individual
happiness and national prosperity.

Many of the errors that have been committed in negotiations
with Foreign States, and in establishing a system of Colonial
policy, have arisen from an imperfect knowledge of the Pro-
vinces. To extend sound information of all the Colonies is very
desirable, and more especially is it so for New Brunswick, of
which comparatively little is known on the opposite side of the
Atlantic.

Notwithstanding the inhabitants of Great Britain have ex-
pended sums almost beyond computation in public improve-
ments both at home and abroad, such is the elevated state of the
nation, that she still abounds in wealth, and new sources of
riches and prospei'ity are yearly unfolding themselves to her
subjects. Accumulations of money have been to many the origin
of uneasiness, and to discover how they may be safely employed
has called forth the exercise of much ability and ingenuity.
There can be no doubt that the Colonies offer the best and most
productive field for the application of the inactive capital of the
Parent-country, and also for her overflowing population.

Happily, the value of the British North American Colonies
to the Empire is becoming more and more apparent ; nor can
they be too highly estimated for affording strength and security
\,o the nation, an outlet for her stagnant population and manu-

V.1

I'UEl'ACE.

▼u

fnctures, or for supplying the elemenis of industry to millions of
licT subjects. Willi such views, the Author has been deeply
impressed with the importance and responsibility of his task,
whicii he has endeavoured to accomplish without bias or par-
tiality.

The topographical and other descriptions have been derived
fi'om personal observation ; and the remarks in reference to Emi-
gration are from the same source, and from experience in form-
ing new Settlements. The materials for the early history of
New Brunswick have been principally taken from Ilackluyt,
L'Escarbot, Charlevoi, the History of Massachusetts, and Hali-
burton's History of Nova Scotia. Tlie accounts of the first
settlements of the English in the Province were involved in
much obscurity ; the chapter on that subject was compiled from
public documents, authentic narratives, and old manuscripts, a
number of which were very kindly supplied by James White,
Esq., Sheriff of St. John. The works of Mr. M'Gregor, Mr.
Murray, and others, with the writings of Mr. Cooney and the
Author of the Notitia of New Brunswick, have also been con-
sulted.

The tables that refer to the industry, commerce, and resources
of the Province have been drawn from works of established
authority, and the Journals of the Legislature ; and much pains
have been taken to render them correct.

The Author has to acknowledge very gratefully the obliga-
tions he owes to the Hon. John S. Saunders, Provincial Secre-
tary, and to the Hon. Thomas Bailey, Surveyor-General : to
the latt.^r he is indebted for valuable information in reference to
the quantity of Crown land contained in each county, and the
regulations adopted for its disposal. His acknowledgments are
likewise due H. Bowyer Smith, Esq., Collector of H. M.
Customs at John, and to Beverly Robinson, Esq., Provincial
Treasurer, for their assistance in completing the tables of the
trade and revenues of New Brunswick. An account of the pre-

vin

PREFACE.

1 i

vailing diseases of St. John was supplied by Dr. Livingstone
of that place : to him and other Gentlemen in New Brunswick
and Nova Scotia, the Author presents his sincere thanks for the
interest they have taken in tliis Work.

To exhibit the geograpliy of the Province advantageously, a
Map has been prepared that embraces Nova Scotia, Cape Bre-
ton, Prince Edward's Island, and part of Canada, and which also
shows the line between New Brunswick and the United States
as established by the late Treaty of L'ird Ashburton. The
scenery of the Province, and several subjects, are illustrated by
very correct drawings, for which the Author expresses his best
thanks to J. E. Woolford, Esq., of Fiedericton.

Comprehensive Notes for Emigrants have been introduced in
the body and at the close of the Work, and such details have
been given as will direct them in their settlement in the Pro-
vince. In the topographical descriptions, pains have been taken
to convey correct representations in regard to the nature of the
climate, soil, fisheries, timber, minerals, sites for manufactures,
and other physical resources.

Neither Railways nor any other extensive public works have
ever been introduced into New Brunswick, although the period
has arrived when her population, trade, and industry call for
increased facilities of overland transportation. Remarks on the
contemplated Railway between Halifax and Quebec, and others,
have been offered, and the Author's views respecting the several
Lines proposed are the result of actual observation of the coun-
try they are intended to intersect.

From the nature of the Work, the Chapters on the Geology
and Natural History of the Pro^ ince are necessarily brief. The
former is condensed from the Author's more voluminous Reports,
and both are intended to be practically useful, rather than to
appear as scientific descriptions.

In 1783, the population of all the British Colonies in North
America was only 193,000; in 183G, it was 1,651,500; by care-

PREFACE.

ful estimation, it is now 2,208,500. Their ca'^'tal has been
estimated at £75,000,000, and the public revenue at £1,250,000.
The shipping tonnage exceeds 2,000,000 tons, which is manned
by 1 50,000 seamen and fishermen. The amount of consumption
of British manufactured goods is nearly £7,000,000 sterling per
annum. Excepting the most northern parts of this vast terri-
tory, which supply fish, timber, and furs, the climate, soil, and
resources of the country are equal to those of Great Britain,
and tlie Fisheries are the richest in the world.

Now that the Atlantic is freely navigated by steam, to unite
these Colonies by a line of Railway along the whole British
frontier is an object of the highest national importance. Such
a work would form a common bond of luiion between each of
the Provinces and the Mother-country, and, in any emergency,
supply ample means of defence against invasion. The loyalty
and attachment of these Colonies to the Parent State is firmly
established, and, by a wise system of national policy, it may be
long maintained. If to this are added free communications and
general improvements, England will be as iirmly established on
this side of the Atlantic as on the other, and uo event under the
influence of human agency can ever relax her foothold upon
the Great Continent.

Cornwallus, Nova Scotia,
October, 18 IG.

Exte

Disc

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

REMARKS ON BRITISH AMERICA.

Extent and Boundaries. — Claims of the Americans. — Physical Features
of the Country. — Relics of Ancient Nations. — Aboriginal Inha-
bitants. .. a. .. •• .. .. ••

Page.

CHAPTER II.

HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW BRUNSWICK, AS FORMING A PART OF

ANCIENT ACADIA.

Discoveries of Cabot and Columbus. — Expeditions under Baron de
Lery — Sir Humphrey Gilbert — Sir John Gilbert — Marquis de la
Roche. — De Monts visits Port Royal and the Bay of Fundy. —
Settlements captured by the English. — Sir William Alexander. —
Country ceded to France, conquered by the Inhabitants of New
England. — Capture of Canada and Cape Breton — Restored. —
Grants to La Tour. — Fortress on the St. John. — Contests between
Charnis!i6 and La Tour. — Heroism, Capture, and Sufferings of Ma-
dame de la Tour. — Indians of the Northern Coast. — French Settle-
ments. — Disaffection of the French and Indians. — War. — Expulsion
of the Acadians. — Capture of Louisburg by the Provincials. —
Return of the Acadians. — Conquest of Quebec by General Wolfe. —
jrcQCC* •• •■ •• •• •• •• ••

I"!

(

xii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.

HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP THE EARLY SETTLEMENTS OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

Early French Settlements at Bay Chaleurs — Miramichi. — Fatal Ma-
lady of the Colonists — Distress. — Victory of Capt. Byron. — Submis-
sion of the Indian Chiefs. — Revolutionary War. — First English
Settlement at St. John. — Maugerville. — Attacks of the Americans.
— Disaffection of the Indians — Presents — Reconciliation — Peace.—
The Landing of Loyalists. — New Brunswick made a separate Pro-
vince — Administration.

CHAPTER IV.

Paok.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

Boundaries. — Area. — Disputed Territory. — Claims of the Americans. —
Border Difficulties — Threatened War — Settlement of the Dispute.
Canadian Boundary. — General Features. — Moimtains — Lakes —
Rivers — Cataracts — Icc-barriers — Marshes — Islands — Lagoons. ..

CHAPTER V.

NATIVE INDIANS OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

Theories of Origin — Different Tribes — Physical Character — Customs —
Powers of Endurance — Oratory — Dress — Wampum Belts — Hiei'o-
glyphics — Wigwams — Canoes — Relics — Portages — Wars — Inter-
course with Europeans fatal — Former Savage Character.— Indian
Confederation — Villages— Pursuits — Anecdote — Languages.

lOG

CHAPTER VI.

TOPOGRAPHY OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

Southern Counties. 67. John, — Situation — Harbour. — City of

St. John — Edifices — Public Institutions — Manufactures — Industry.
Carlton. — Musquash. — Harbc ars.— Agricultural Character. — Tim-
ber — Fisheries. County of Charlotte. — Towns — St. Andrew's — \y
St. Stephen's.— Rivers— Harbours— Islands.— Mills— L\uubering —

CONTliNTS.

Xlll

ty^

Soil— Surface — Agriculture. County of Westmoreland.— ^MwixXaow
— Area — Division of the County — Agriculture — Parishes — Rivers —
Marshes — Exports — Minerals — Old Fortifications. Kiny's County.
— Boundaries — Parishes — Villages — Settlements — Streams — Agri-
culture — Lumbering — Successful Immigrants. Queen's County. —
Boundaries — Surface — Parishes — Rivers — Lakes — Fish — Soil

— Timber. — Gagetown — Scenery — Wild Lands — Immigrants.
County of Sunbury. — First Settlement — Extent — Vernal Floods —
Intervales. — Agriculture — Losses by Fire. County of York. —
Parishes. — Fredericton, the Capital — Site — Public Buildings — In-
stitutions — Navigation. — Early Settlements — Military Settlements —^

— Land Company — Boisto wn — Soil — Agriculture — Lumbering.
County of Carlton. — Situation — General Features — Mountains —
Streams — Lakes — Woodstock — Villages — Military Stations — To-
bique River — Aroostook River — American Boundary — Grand Falls

— Salmon Fisheries — Madawasca — Acadian French — Impolitic
Treaty — Soil — Agriculture — Lumbering. .. ..119

Northern Counties. County of Kent. — Area — Parislies — Early «^'

Settlement. — Town of Liverpool — Harbour. — Rivers — Indians —
Coal-field — Fisheries — Timber. County of Norlhumherland. —
Boundaries — Area — Parishes. — Miramichi Bay — River. — Towns —
Newcastle — Chatham — Douglastown — Nelson. — Trade — Manufac-
tures — Lumber — Ship-building — Great Fire — Destroyed Forests.
County of Gloucester. — Surface — Parishes — Town of Batluirst —
Rivers — Falls — Mining — Ship-building. — Pockmouche — Shippegan
— Miscou. — Fisheries — Soil — Agricvilture. County of Restigouche.
— Situation — Area — Parishes — Settlements — Coast Fisheries — Ri- ^ "^
vers — Mountains. — Towns — Dalhousie — Campbelltown. — Kempt
Road — Indian Village — Gasp6 — Great Roads — Bye Roads— Road-
making — Bridge-building— Halifax and Quebec Railway. .. 181

CHAPTER Vn.

AGRICULTURE.

Climate — Soils — Alluviums — Mari — Lime — Peat — Forests— New Lands
— Imperfect State of Agriculture — Agricultural Societies — Produc-
tions — Wheat — other Grains — Indian Corn — Grasses — Horticulture
— Floriculture — Mode of Clearing Wild Lands — Ashes — First Crop
— Squatters — Forest Trees — New Settlements — Live Stock — Maple
Sugar. — Game — Hunting — Sporting. . .

224

XIV

CONTENTS.

i !

lii 1

,-- .*

CHAPTER VIII.

THE FISHERIES OP NEW BRUNSWICK.

Historcal Sketch of the Fisheries— Treaties with the French and Ame-
ricans — Surrender of British Rights — Aggressions of the Americans
— Advances of the Americans in 1845 — Danger of having all tlie
Fisheries surrendered — Remonstrance — Deep-sea Fishing — Coast
Fishing — Boat Fishing — Offal — Jigging. — Fisheries of New Bruns-
wick, their Value and Capabilities — Neglected — Abundance of
Fish — Exports — Bounty.

Paoz.

265

CHAPTER IX.

COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY OF NKW BRUNSWICK.

Colonial System — Colonial Protection — Timber Trade — Lumbering —
The Forest — Kinds of Timber — Hard and Soft Woods — Lumbering
Parties — Felling — Hewing — Forking — Drawing — Stream Dri\ing —
Rafting — Shipping — Saw Mills — Manufactures— Exports of Timber
— Rocks and Minerals — Agricultural Produce — Ship-buildmg —
Shipping — Imports — Revenue — Banks — Insurance Companies . . 289

CHAPTER X.

POPULATION, AND RELIGIOUS, SOCIAL, AND POLITICAL STATE OF

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Population— Religion — Church of England — Roman Catholics — Pres-
V by terians — Methodists — Baptists — Free-will Baptists — Religious
Enthusiasm — Education — King's College — Seminaries— Grammar
Schools — Sunday Schools— Temperance Societies — Social State —
Customs and Manners — Fashions — Amusements — Acadian French
— Government— Administration of Justice — Politics — Civil List .. C15

CHAPTER XL

QEOLOGY AND M.'NERALOGY O? NEW BRUNSWICK.

Rocks — Order of Superposition — Orgiuiic Remains— Coal-field— Fossil

Plants — Minerals .. .. .. .. .. .. 340

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

NATURAL HISTORY OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

Mammalia— Birds— Reptiles— Fishes— Plants.

Paoe.
.. .355

NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS

369

TATE OF

»t i

1 1 I

ILLUSTRATIONS.

(

Map of New Brunswick to face Vignette, Group of Indians.

Grand Falls of the St. John

Indian Wigwams

Government House, /redericton

Madawasea Perogue

Backwoodsman's Shanty ..

Page.

72
110
160
180
250

NEW BRUNSWICK.

NOTICE.

A Map of the Province was intended to have been given with
the Work, but, owing to an accident to the Plate while in the
hands of the Engraver, it could not be got ready in time, and it
was thought impolitic to delay the publication to have a new
Map engraved.

ucccssur.

At a period when the nations of Europe had greatly enriched them-
selves by their industry and commerce, and the ambition of their sove-
reigns could scarcely be gratified except by encroachments made upon
the dominions of each other, the discovery of America was to them the
discovery of a New World, and England, France, and Spain began to
vie with each other in taking possession of and colonising the ncwly-
Ibund continent.

The discovery of land in. the Nortliorn Ilomispbero '-.t'envr-d like a
new creation. The animals and plants, the climates, the oceans, seas,
rivers, and lakes, were found to be diftcrent from those of civili.sed
Europe. The heavens displayed new wonders to the astronomer, and

!;i II

! I

NEW BEUNSWICK.

CHAPTER I.

REMARKS ON BKITISII AMICRICA.

British America comprises a part of the vast continent situated be-
tween the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The discovery of a number of
the West India IsKinds was made by Columbus in 14{>2 ; but the
great continent itself was unknown to Europeans until l-197f when it
was visited by Cabot, a British navij^ator, while seeking a Western
passage to India. Although Columbus was the first to discover land
upon the coast of America, the name of the continent was given by
Amevicus Vespucius, who succeeded the first Western navigator, and,
by his address, obtained an honour which was justly due to his pre-
decessor.

At a period wlicn the nations of Europe had greatly enriched them-
selves by their industry and commerce, and the ambition of their sove-
reigns could scarcely be gratified except by encroachments made upon
the dominions of each other, the discovery of America was to them the
discovery of a New World, and England, France, and Spain began to
vie with each other in taking possession of and colonising the newly-
Ibund contiuout.

The discovery of ]and in the Xnrthern IlemisiihrM-e ^..eniorl lik.-> a
new creation. The animals and plants, the climates, tlie oceans, seas,
rivers, and lakes, were found to be diftcrent from those of civilised
Europe. The heavens displayed new wonders to the astronomer, and

1!^:

M'.W HHUNSWK.K.

all nature pri'sentcd Itself under fomis with which the early voyagers
were unac(iuaintc(l. Gold and silver had heen hro»ight from the moun-
tains; while the size and strength of the timber, the fertility of the soil,
and the abundance of fish in the waters, filled the minds of the first
adventurers with wonder and delight.

The whole of the immense continent, wherever it was explored, was
found to be occupied by numerous tribes of human beings, who were
also uidikc the inhabitants of Europe. The title of these tribes to the
soil had mver been disputed ; but they were now to be driven back,
step by step, until their names and places of abode should nowhere be
known. The treachery, injustice, and cruelty with which these simple
aborigines were treated by the early Colonists, forms some of the
darkest pages in the history of the world ; and although their final
niease of the lands of their forefathers, and their almost utter annihila-
tion, arc among those momentous events permitted by Providence for
the extensicm of human industry and happiness, and for the worship of
the true (lod, it is the bounden duty of every civilised nation to lessen
their pains, and to hrir^ into peace and contentment the remnants of
the tribes they have dispossessed of their unalienable rights, and to
whom, in return, they have conveyed the poison of disease and the
evilfi of intemperance.

The spirit of colonisation had prevailed nearly three centuries, in
which period there were numerous conflicts between England and
France for territory, which each power claimed as its own. In the
same time, British and other European emigrants and their descendants
had established themselves along an extensive line of the Atlantic
coast, until they gained a power that refused to be restrained by the
laws and usages of their forefathers. Revolt from the European Go-
vernments commenced. The Britisli Colonists took up arms against
the mother-country, and won their independence. Their example has
wince been imitated by the inhabitants of Soutli America, where the
struggles to throw off the control of foreign sovereignty have scarcely
terminated. The Revolutionary War in the British Colonies reflects
but little credit upon the British Parliament or the Colonists in Ame-
rica ; it has, nevertheless, rendered that part of the continent which
still belongs to Great Britain more secure than it would have been if

NKW IJUUNSWICK.

uly voyagers
)ni llie luoim-
ty of the soil,
s of the first

such ft rcvohition hnd not taken place ; for the grcnt number of loyalistn
that removed from the revolted States to Canada, New Hrunswick, and
Nova Scotia, have been succeeded by a population that is firmly attached
to the Crown and laws of the Empire.

i.xplored, was
Ts, who were
• tribes to the

driven back.
Id nowhere be
I these simple

some of the
"h their final
Litter annihilft-
I'rovidence for
the worship of
ation to lessen
e remnants of
[rights, and to
scasc and the

centuries, in
England and
own. In the
ir descendants
' the Atlantic
trained by the
uropean Go-
arms against
example has
[a, where the
have scarcely
lonies reflects
Inists in Ame-
Intinent which
have been if

British America includes all th.at part of the Northern Continent
which was not given up by treaty to the Ilepul)Iic of the United States
at the close of the Revolutionary War, and also all the territory dis-
covered and occupied by IJtitish subjects since that period. This
region embraces more than one-third of the entire continent. It is
bounded on the north by the Arctic Ocean, and extends westward to
the Hist degree of longitude, where it meets the territory of Jlussia,
as settled by treaty in 1825. Its northern limits approach nearly the
70th parallel of latitude, and all the islands in the Arctic Sea belong to
England by right of discovery. The Atlantic Ocean forms its eastern
limits, from the Straits of Fury and Hecla, in latitude 70° North, to the
mouth of the St. Croix, in latitude 4r)° 5' North. The islands along
the coast also belong to Great Britain. The southern boundary of this
immense territory runs along an irregular line from tlu St. Croix to the
St. Regis on the .St. Lawrence, sixty miles above Montreal. From
thence the river and the great chain of Canadian lakes separate the
British from the American Possessions. From the head of Lake;
Superior, the line runs to the north-western angle of the liake of the
Woods, in latitude 49° 20' North, and thence across the continent to the
Rocky Mountains, beyond which it has not been certainly determined.
The British Possessions in North America are therefore situated between
the parallels of 41" 47' and 78° North latitude, and between the 52nd
and 141st of West longitude, and include an area of 4,000,000 square
miles. They embrace the Provinces of Canada, New Brunswick, Nova
Scotia, the regions of Hudson's Bay and Labrador, and the Islands of
Newfoundland, Cape Breton, Prince Edward's Island, and Anticosti.*

The claims of Great Britain to certain parts of this region have
recently been disputed by the American Government. Tiie contention

• " An Historical and Descriptive Account of British Americn," by Hiigli
Murray, 3 vols. ICmo, Edinburgh 1839, vol. i. pp. 18, 19.

B 'i

'1!

.li'il

I., i

t I

•:l

I''

4 N1-:W BRUNSWICK.

that existed with reference to a tract of wilderness country situated
between New Brunswick and the State of Maine, and which was likely
to result in a war between the two nations, was settled by treaty, through
the mediation of liOrd Ashburton, at Washington, on the 9th of August,
18 J2. This subject will again be adverted to in another chapter.

The claims of the Americans to a part of the Oregon Territory, situ-
ated west of the R,ocky Mountains, still remain unsettled ; and the
longer they continue unadjusted, the greater will be the difficulties in
establishing a boundary between the two nations. An example of this
kind has been afforded in the delay of fixing the line betAvecn the State
of Maine and the British Provinces, by which the Americans have
gained a large tract of excellent land upon a comparatively recent
claim.

The climates of the northern parts of British America are too severe
for agriculture, and vast tracts are buried beneath perpetual snows.
These northern regions are nevertheless valuable for the furs they pro-
duce, and the excellent fisheries along their coasts. In the southern
districts of this great territory, the climates are mild and the soil
fertile. Almost the entire surface of the earth is still covered with
dense forests, which often reach to the tops of the mountains, and ex-
hibit all their primeval features, except where fires have swept over the
surface ; and even there, the soil is soon replenished with a new growth
of forest trees.

Along the coasts, rivers, and lakes, the hand of industry has cleared
the timber from large tracts of the virgin soil ; and there are wide
savannahs, prairies, and bogs, which produce chiefly the grasses, ferns,
and sphagneous plants, that supply food for herds of elk, reindeer, and
other wild animals still thriving unmolested in their native deserts.
But these tracts are very limited in comparison with the immense dis-
tricts still covered with wood of gigantic growth. On this wide area
civilisation advances but slowly, and century after century vill pass
away before it will reach the limits of the productive soil.

The light bark-canoe of the Indian is the only vessel that navigr.tes
many a noble stream ; and, even in the Province of New Brunswick,
steamboats of considerable burden may ply upon rivers, the shores of
which have nv'vcr boon granUd by iho C■o^•(>rnmclU, but still (Tisplay

NEW BRUNSWICK.

ntry situated
ch was likely
eaty, through
th of August,
chapter,
crritory, situ-
led ; and the
difficulties in
sample of this
veen the State
nericans have
atively recent

are too severe
•potual snows,
furs they pro-
. the southern
I and the soil
1 covered with
itains, and ex-
swept over the
1 a new growth

try has cleared

there are wide

grasses, ferns,

, reindeer, and

native deserts.

immense dis-

this wide area

tury vdll pass

that navigr.tcs
cw Brunswick,
the shores of

nt still (fisplav

the wild and unchanged scenery of a co)intry where the sounds of a
European language are never heard, nor the soil disturbed by the
labour of man. ^

Although the mountains of North America are much inferior in alti-
tude to those of the South, there is no part of the world where nature
presents more sublime and beautiful scenery. Tlie mighty St. Lawrence,
with a chain of inland seas — the St. John, that nearly crosses the pen-
insula between the Bay of Fundy and Quebec, and other rivers of the
inhabited parts of British America, whether considered as channels of
navigation or as objects of beauty, always call forth the admiration of
strangers, and the scenery along their banks is peculiarly rich and im-
posing. The Canadian lakes are the largest and deepest in the world.
Lake Superior is 300 miles in length, 140 miks at its greatest breadlh,
and 1500 miles in circumference ; and it has been estimated by Capt.
Bayfield, that its surface is G27 feet above the level of the Atlantic
Ocean. The smallest lakes of the great chain are capable of allbrding
space for the movements of large fleets ; and, like the ocean, they are
tossed into lofty waves, lluit never cease to roll upoa llieir fertile
borders.

Then there is the great Cataract of Niagara, where the surplus waters
of the great inland basins are poured over a stupendous precipice, pro-
ducing a fall that far surpasses any other on the face of the globe.
Next in magnitude is the great fall of the St. John. The Falls of
Montmorenci, near Quebec, and those of the Nepisiquit, in New
Brunswick, although inferior in magnitude, are sublime and beautiful
objects. The tides of the Bay of Fundy, which at one place rise no
less *than 78 feet, are also remarkable. The Grand Banks of New-
foundland, which have evidently been produced by the gulf-stream
that runs along the Atlantic coast, and ailbrds the most extensive
fishery ever known, may also be reckoned among the wonders of the
New World.

The accounts given by the native savages and early voyai-crs of the
numerous and valuable productions of the country, and its great natural
curiosities, were well calculated to infuse a spirit of enterprise in the
European nations, who ail seemed eager to reap the advantages oftered
by the discovery of a new continent. But the ambition of these powers

' Kl

^i ill

I'M!

I' :i

ii I

I ■ h

i !

NEW BRUNSWICK.

soon precipitated them into wars, which greatly retarded the settlement
of the new Colonies in America, and nearly exterminated the native in-
habitants of the great continent. The Provinces of Upper and Lower
Canada were recently united, and they now form a country whose pro-
ductions and population exceed those of the maritime districts. They
have long been the resort of emigi'ants from Great Britain, while the
climate, soil, and resources of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia have
been overlooked. The numerous valuable fisheries along the coast and
in the bays have also been neglected, and left unprotected from foreign
aggression.

British America offers perfect relief to the overflowing population of
the mother-country, whose manufacturing districts and most productive
counties have become so overloaded with the humbler classes, that the
least disturbance in the state of trade produces the greatest degree of
misery and crime. To remove this monstrous burden from the culti-
vated to the uncultivated parts of the British Empire, is a work
of great national importance, and one that calls loudly for universal
benevolence.

The history of the aboriginal inhabitants of North America is in-
volved in great obscurity. From tradition, relics, &c., some have sup-
posed that the continent was originally peopled from the north-east ;
but it is far more probable that it was first occupied by emigrants from
Asia, from which America is only separated by the Straits of Bering.
The relics of the North American Indians consist chiefly of axes,
kr'ves, arrow-heads, anu pots made of stone. These are frequently
found in their graves — it being the custom of many tribes to bury with
the deceased the implements they had used in their lifetime.

A far more interesting class of relics is seen in the tumuli, forts,
walls, mounds, hearths, &c., found in North America. It is evident
that the people who erected these works were far more civilised, and
better acquainted with the arts, than any of the present Indian tribes.
Those ancient works are found scattered over the great plains between
the southern shore of Lake Eric and the Gulf of Mexico, and along the
banks of the great rivers, which in ancient times appear to have had
towns and cities along their borders. Many of these mounds and
fortifications arc now covered with a lofty growth of timber, and more

he settlement
;he native in-
;r and Lower
y whose pro-
tricts. They
in, while the
a Scotia have
the coast and
I from foreign

population of
)st productive
isses, that the
itest degree of
rom the culti-
e, is a work
/ for universal

NEW BRUNSWICK. 7

llian a thousand years are supposed to have elapsed since they were
erected.

Dried human hodies, resembling mummies, have also been found in tho
caves of Kentucky ; and it is by no means .improbable, that they were
contemporaneous with the works of art found in the Western States. Si-
milar relics are also discovered in Texas, New Mexico, and South Ame-
rica; but it appears that the northern parts of the great continent were in-
habited at a later date, for in them these relics of civilisation entirely
disappear, and nothing is found that throws any light upon the history
of America, except a few rude implements of the savages.

The present work is intended to give an account of the Province
of New Brunswick, from its rirst settlement up to the present time,
and to make its resources better known. The Colony is one of great
importance, with regard both to its intrinsic value and the stedfast
loyalty of its inhabitants ; and to place it in its true light before the
British public, will be the chief object of the following pages.

.menca is m-
)me have sup-
e north-east ;
migrants from
lits of Bering,
iefly of axes,
are frequently
to bury with

me.

tumuli, forts,
It is evident
civilised, and
Indian tribes.

plains between
and along the

ir to have had
mounds and

ber, and more

\V' i

1 ' 'i

CHAPTER II.

HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW BRUNSWICK AS FORMING A PART OF

ANCIENT ACADIA.

The Province of New Brunswick did not exist as a Colony previous
to the American Revolution. The French had always considered it a
part of New France, or Acadia, and therefore its history is compre-
hended in that of Nova Scotia until 1784, when it was formed into a
separate Government.

The histories of all new countries, or such as are inhabited by an
uncivilised people, must necessarily be very limited, and, from the lack
of written records, they can never extend beyond the tradition of the
aborigines. From the continued perils and hardships the first settlers
in the North American Provinces were compelled to endure, little pains
were bestowed by them on the preservation of records which would
have been highly useful and interesting to succeeding generations.
That part of American history which is- ^lled by an account of New
Brunswick is comparatively small ; nevertheless, the following facts,
collected from a variety of sources, will doiibtless be of some interest.

During the reign of Henry VII., John Cabot, a Venetian navigator,
believed in the possibility of finding a western passage to India, and
the discoveries previously made by Columbus had excited a spirit of
enterprise favourable to an inquiry of so much importance to the East-
ern World. Accordingly, on the 5th of March, 1496, His Majesty
granted a commission to Cabot and his sons Sebastian, Lewis, and
Sacnuis, with full authority under English colours to take possession of
all the countries they might discover unknown to Christians.

Two caravels and five ships were fitted out by the Western navigator
and his friends. These vessels were supplied with articles of trafllc

1 ij

■Mi

Mi.

\ Hi!

NEW BRUNSWICK.

A PART OF

by the mcrt-hants of London ;in(l Bristol. With this little fleet anil
thre(> hundred men, Cabot and his son Sebastian sailed from Bristol
i>arly in May 1497. While piirsuinjr a western course in tht hope of
reachin;^ the China Seas without being aiTested in their progress, on the
2-lth of June they were surprised by the appearance of land.

The land thus first discovered was evidently a part of Labrador,
which they called Prima Vista. Galvanus* says that the land first dis-
covered by Cabot was in latitude 45°; and as they coasted to the north-
ward, they must have gone into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in pursuit
of the supposed Northern passage. During this part of their voyage,
they discovered an island where they first became acquainted with the
savages of America. This island they called St. John (now Prince
Edward's Island), whence they carried av/ay ten of the natives to
England. -f- They then sailed northward to latitude 67" 30"; but
being disappointed in not finding the passage he was in quest of, Cabot
altered his course, and steered to the south along the coast, to the land
now called Florida.

From these discoveries, and the actual settlement of two Englishmen
by the name of Gilbert on the western side of the Bay of Fundy (now
New Brunswick), in 1G07, the English claimed America by right of dis-
covery and possession. The discovery of the Western Continent was
thus made five years before Columbus had extended his observations
-beyond the islands of the Gulf of Mexico. In consequence of the
failing of his provisions, and a mutiny that broke out among his seamen,
Cabot was compelled to return to England, where it appears the success
of the voyage was not such as afforded any stimulus to other adven-
* turers.

The French were the next to visit the new continent. In 1518, Baron

cles of traflic

* It was formerly supposed that Newfoundland was the Ih-st-discovered
coast on the continent of America; but it appears from the relative positions of
the different places named by historians, that the land in qiiestion was Labra-
dor, and that the land opposite was Newfoundland, named St. John, and not
Prince Edward's Island, as some have believed. The white bears found at
Labrador by the voyayeurs decide in favour of that place, as they do not exist
on the islands farther south.

t lialiburton's History of Nova Scotia, vol. i. payc iv.

'*■ !>|

(jll'lil

,t ill!

i;;

■!'l'
ili

NEW BllUNSWICK.

clc Lery, a Frenchman, landed cattle at Isle du Sable, and made an
attempt to open a settlement at Canseau ; but in this object he was
unsuccessful. In 1525, Varrazzand, a Frenchman, and Gomez, a Spa-
niard, coasted the shores from Newfoundland to Florida, and landed in
Nova Scotia ; but they made no attempt to settle the country.

In 1534, Jacques Carticr landed at Bay Chaleurs, and took possession
of the country in the name of the King of France. It is probable that
he and his people were the first Europeans who landed in that part of
Acadia now called New Brunswick. Cartier fortified Cape Breton
in 1541.

It was not until 1579 that any attempt was made by the English to
extend the discoveries of Cabot, or to establish a Colony in the Western
World. In the above year, Queen Elizabeth granted to Sir Humphrey
Gilbert a patent for discovering, occupying, and settling " such remote
heathen and barbarous countries as were not actually possessed by any
Christian people." Sir Humphrey lost one of his ships in a storm imme-
diately after she had put to sea, and after returning home his circum-
stances were so much reduced that he was compelled to sell his estate.
On the 11th of June, 1583, he sailed again from Plymouth with five
ships and 250 men ; and on the 11th of July he arrived at Newfound-
land, of which he took formal possession in behalf of the Crown of
England. His commission was read at St. John's before a number of
tnerchants who had gone there to trade, and the masters of thirty-six
vessels of different nations. Obedience was promised by the people^
and a pillar was erected bearing an engraving of the Queen's arms.
Public worship was introduced according to the mode of the Established
Church of England. A tax was levied on all the ships, and treasonable*
words were to be punished by the loss of ears and the confiscation of
th 3 property of the offender.*

Sir Humphrey sailed from Newfoundland on the 20th of August,
with three ships — the Delight, the Golden Hind, and the Squirrel. The
Delight was wrecked on the Isle of Sable ; and the Squirrel, which he
commanded in person, foundered in a violent storm, and every soul
on board perished. The unfortunate vessel was spoken at the time of

* lliililjurtuii, vol. i. i)iigL' 7.

:iii

NEW BllUNS /ICK.

and made an

)bject he was

omez, a Spa-

and landed in

ntry.

3ok possession

probable that
in that part of

Cape Breton

the English to
in the Western
Sir Humphrey
; " such remote
ssessed by any
a storm imme-
me his circum-
sell his estate,
louth with five
at Newfound-
the Crown of
re a number of
s of thirty-six
Iby the people^
Queen's amis.
[he Established
,nd treasonable*
confiscation of

|th of August,
1 Squirrel. The
^rrel, which he
\d every soul
I at the time of

her peril. Sir Humphrey was seen sitting with a book in his hand,
and he was heard to call out to his companions, " We are as near heaven
by sea as by land." During the night, the signal lights of his ship
suddenly disappeared, and he, with his whole crew, was buried in the
ocean.* Sir Humphrey Gilbert was a man of more than ordinary
strength and stature. His appearance at once commanded esteem and
veneration. He was celebrated for his genius and learning, courage
and patriotism, and Queen Elizabeth had honoured him by peculiar
marks of royal favour. With him perished Stephen Permanius, a
learned Hungarian whose friendship for the Admiral had induced him
to undertake the voyage.

Sir John Gilbert, the brother of Sir Humphrey, to whose title he
succeeded, was the next to attempt the opening of a settlement on the
Norlh American Continent. In 1G07, by the aid of Sir John Popham,
he fitted out a fleet, and arrived in safety at the mouth of the Sagada-
hock, or Kenebec river, and spent a winter on a small island which con-
tained only about eight acres. At this place the nobleman died, and
his company, having suffered great distress, returned to England in the
following year.

In the mean time, the French were jealous spectators of the attempt
made by the English to colonise the New World, and Cartier, Rober-
val, and other Frenchmen visited Canada, thereby giving France a claim
to the teiTitory of the St. Lawrence. By the labours of these persons,
a lucrative trade was opened with the natives, an(f the fisheries along
the coast had attracted numbers of adventurers from the different na-
tions of Europe.

Under the protection of Henry IV. the Marquis de la Roche sailed
from France in 1598 with a number of convicts, whom he landed on
the almost barren Isle of Sable, in the hope of making a settlement.
He then proceeded to Nova Scotia ; but having met with several dis-
asters, he returned to France, leaving the miserable convicts on the
island, where there was neither fresh water, fuel, nor a soil capable of
producing anything but thorns and thistles. After these unfortunate
people had been upon the island seven years, they were taken off" by

Ilackluyt, vol, iii. p. 1jo-1i'>8.

NEW IJUUNSWICK.

Clu'todt'l, who had boon u pilot to De hi llodK'. Only twelve of the
nunilur hmdcd were found alive : these were pardonetl of their offences,
and each survivor received fifty crowns from the King. They also
recovered heavy damages from Chctodel, who had taken from them all
the skins of black foxes and other furs they had secured during their
exile.

The early attempts to establish Colonics u])on these shores Wc r un-
successful, and even calamitous ; yet the value of the fur-trade, the
nature of the soil, and tlie liope that always prevails of finding riches in
unexplored regions, excited the Jluguenots and other European mer-
chants with the spirit of foreign enterprise. Previous to the year 100!),
a mariner named Sehavalet is stated to have performed no less than
forty voyages to Causeau. In 1578, the number of fishing vessels upon
the coast was 330 ; of these 100 were Spani;;h, 30 Biscayans, 150
French, and 50 English. The latter had command of the harbours.*
Valuable furs were purchased from the savages for mere trinkets, and
the teeth of the sea-horse brought high prices in the European markets.
The interesting accounts given by those who had visited the coimtry,
had also much influence over the minds of the adventurers. The seas
were represented as being alive with fish, the forests with black foxes
and other animals with rich furs, and the rocks with gold, silver, and
precious stones. All these circumstances combined, produced a spirit
of rivalry among the European Powers, and to create undue emulation
and strife among their subjects.

During the i-eign of Ileni'y IV., a gentleman named De Monts, luider
very favourable auspices, made another attempt at colonisation. He
received from his Sovereign almost unlimited powers and privileges,
and every encouragement to pursiu^ his arduous undertaking. De
Monts had accompanied C/hauvin up the St. Lawrence, and had made
himself acquainted with a part of tlie Atlantic coast, llis connnission
embraced all the territory from the 40th to the 4Gth degree North
latitude, or from Hudson's Bay to Virginia ; and he had a monopoly of
the fur-trade over that vast tract oi: country, which was then called
New France. The Colony was to be established at the expense of

pnse.
De

!|i

li.ickluyl, vol. iii. \k liJL'.

-, if!,
I if'-ji

NKW lUUNSNMCK.

' twelve of the
f tluir offoncos,
g. Tlu'v also
1 fVoin them all
:d during their

liorcs wi. •<' iin-
fur-tnuli', the
luliiisf riehes iu
Europenti nier-
theyear 1G09,
I no less than
iig vessels upon
Biscayans, 150
the harbours.*
• trinkets, and
opean markets,
d the coiuitry,
ers. The seas
th blaek foxes
Id, silver, and
duced a spirit
idue emulation

Monts, under
)nisation. He
md privileges,
rtaking. De
md had made
is eonnnission
degree North
I monopoly of
IS then called
le expense of

individuals, who eheerfully devoted their money to the popular enter-
prise.

De Monts was a Protestant, and obtained permission for the free
exercise of his religion in the country, on the condition of providing for
Roman Catholic Missionaries for the conversion of natives. Four
vessels were well equipped ; of these two were put under his inhnediate
command — the other two were to be employed in protecting and extend-
ing his trade. Accompanied by Champlain (an experienced pilot, and
afterwards the founder of Quebec), Potriucourt, and a number of respect-
able volunteers, De Monts sailed from Havre de Grace, and on the Kith
of May, l(i04, arrived at Ilosignol (now Liverpool), on the south side
of Acadia. At this place he found one Rosignol, whose nanu^ the
harbour h.cd received, trading with the Indians without a licence. He
inniiediately seized the vessel and goods of his countryman, and by
them enabled himself to carry on the expedition, which otherwise would
have failed.* He then sailed westerly about four leagues, to a harbour
now called Port Mouton, where he disembarked aiul erected camps, or
wigwams, for the accommodation of his companions and seamen. At
this place they remained some time, amusing themselves by hunting
and fishing, being in daily expectation of receiving supplies from one of
the vessels. But Morel, the captain, had not discovered his instructions,
which were fixed to a cross at Canseau, and he had been delayed in
capturing four French vessels, which he found carrying on a contraband
trade. The missing vessel was at last found by a party of the natives,
despatched to Canseau for the purpose, and the winter supplies, under
the care of Pontgrave, were finally received.

From thence De Monts sailed along the peninsula to the westward
and northward, and anchored in the Hay of St. Mary. While he was
surveying the shores of the bay, lu- discovered a vein of iron ore, and,
as it is stated, a mineral containing silver. The vein of iron ore may
htill be seen ; but as no silver ore of any kind has ever been found by
the inhabitants since, it is probable tliat tlie mineralogist of De Monts
was mistaken, ur deceived by the sliiniiig appearance of the specular

* A large lake between Liverpool and Annapolis btill bears the name of
Ro'^io-nol.

NEW bllUNSVVlCK.

!!.

^il!

iron still found on Di^^by Nock. At a certain landing-place in the bay,
the whole party were nnich dismayed fron» the absence of one Daubre,
a highly-respectable clergyman, who on one of his excursions had lost
his sword, and, while he was searching for it, lost himself. After every
endeavour had been made to find the absent priest, but to no avail, he
was unavoidably left on the solitary shore. He sustained himself six-
teen days on berries and roots, and, at the end of that period, was
accident.idy discovered from a boat em])loyed in fishing. He was much
emaciated, and almost luiable to speak, and in this state was carried to
his companions, who greatly rejoiced at his providential deliverance.

In the mean time, De Monts and his party had sailed into a spacious
bay, which they called lia Baye Fran^oise, but since known under the
appellation of the Bay of Fundy. They also discovered the narrow
channel called Digby Gut. After passing through this channel, they
were delighted with the beautiful basin into which it opened, it being
surrounded with fine scenery, and hills that poured down streams of
fresh water into the level lands of the shore. Potrincourt was so much
pleased with the extremity of the basin, and the river flowing into it,
that he chose the land at their junction for his residence, and, having
obtained a graiit of it from De Monts, called it Port Royal.* The next
place visited wa a high cape on the north side of La Baye Fran^oisc.
At this place they found native copper, which, from being supposed to
contain gold, gave the name of Cape d'Or to that place. At Parrsboro'
and Cape Blowmedon, they found various crystals and amethysts, some
of which were afterwards presented to the King and Queen. Having
altered their course and steered along the northern shore, they found a
great river, called by the natives Ouangondy ; but from having disco-
vered it on the 24th of June, the day of the festival of St. John the
Baptist, they named it St. John.

In hopes of finding a sh.>rt communication between La Baye Fran-
^oise and the Bay Chaleurs and Tadousac.f they sailed up the stream,
until the water became too shallow for their vessels. Its grandeur and

1^ i ! !5|t|

I ;^ I

* Since called Annapolis, in honour of Queen Anne.

t Haliburton, vol, i, p. IG, Tadousac, situated below Quebec, was the first
French settlement made on the St, Lawrence,

V 1:1

NKW BRliNSWICK.

i St. John the

l)pauty — its fish and fowl — its wiUl grapes and ricli meadows, were all
ohjects of admiration. The noble river swept slowly and niajestically
on its conrse, through groves of lofty elms and maples ; and the shores,
although often frequented hy the native savages, were buried beneath
thick forests, of which large tracts remain uncleared even to the present
day. It has not been ascertained whether De Monts and his compa-
nions were the first Europeans who ascended the St. John ; it is never-
theless very certain that they were its first navigators in vessels of any
considerable burthen.

Having examined this river probably as far as the site where Frede-
ricton now stands, they followed the shores of the bay until they found
an island in the middle of a river, which had been previously explored
by Champlain. From a |)eculiar configuration of the river and its tri-
butary streams, which suggested the idea of a cross, the island was called
St. Croix, and a fort was erected to defend the adventurers from the
assaults of the natives, in whose friendship they could have little confi-
dence.

The island of St. Croix * is situated at the mwith of a river of the
same name, which now forms a part of the boundary between New
Brunswick and the State of Maine, and within a mile and a half of the
present town of St. Andrew's, It was about a mile and a quarter in
circumference, and quite low and level, Its southern side was defended
hy a few pieces of cannon, and upon its opposite side a fort was erected
to command the river. The fort contained the dwelling of De Monts,
above which waved the royal standard of France. There was also a
magazine and a chapel. The roof of the latter was supported by living
trees. Near the magazine were the dwellings of D'Orville Champlain,
Champdore, and other gentlemen, with a long covered gallery for exer-
cise and amusement in bad weather. The land between the fort and

ec, was the first

* There has been some dispute in regard lo the river which De Monts called
St, Croix. L'Escarbot, in the llistoire de la Nouvelle France, says, " Quittans
la Riviere St. Jean, ils vinrent suivant la cote « vingt iieues de la en unc graude
rivit>re (qui est proprement mer), ou ils se canip6rent en une petite isle au mi-
lieu d'icelle." The mouth of the St. Croix, now so called, is twenty leagues
from St. John, and the whole description given by L'Escarbot agrees with the
present features of the country.

NKW HllUNSWICK.

^M:||ii||

= ' liii

battery was laid out in gardi-ns, wliitli, notwitlistaiuling tlic lateness ol
the season, were planted and decorated.*

As this fort only consisted of a low breastwork, and a ditch opened in
loose soil, it has entirely disappeared, and not a fragment of the wooden
buildin{,'s now remains. Old French bricks, cannon-balls, and other
relics have been found on the island at the place where the fort was
erected.

Potrincourt having chosen Port Royal for his residence, embarked on
board one of the vessels, and returned to France. It was soon disco-
vered by the French that tlic site of their encampment was most unfa-
vourable. The island afforded scarcely any fuel, and no fresh water ;
and as their grain had been planted too late in the season to ripen, on
the approach of winter they were compelled to live on salted meat.
The scurvy soon made its appearance, and of seventy-six persons,
thirty-six died during the winter, and those who survived were reduced
to a state of great distress. From these circumstances, De Monts
determined to seek a more favourable climate for making a settlement.
Accordingly, as soon as the ice had disappeared in the spring, he visited
Penobscot, Kenebcc, Casco, Saco, and Malabarre, now called Cape Cod.
The aborigines of St. Croix were very friendly, and much pleased with
the society of their visitors ; but the Indians of Cape Cod were found
to be hostile, and far too numerous to be withstood by the small force
of De Monts: he therefore returned to Port Royal. All this period,
the whole country, including New Brunswick and the chief part of the
State of Maine, was called Acadia. On the approach of autumn, De
Monts set sail for France, leaving Pontgrave, Champlain, and Champ-
dore in charge of the infant Colony. In the succeeding season, his
people raised grain and vegetables ; and an abundant supply of venison
was obtained by hunting, or purchase from savages. They also endea-
voured to establish themselves farther south ; but, from the strength
and hostility of the Indians, they were unsuccessful.

De Monts and Potrincourt, after tlicir return to France, were active
in making preparations for another voyage, and raising a reinforcement
for the little Colony at Port Royal. They sailed from Ilonfleur on the

* Ilaliburlou, vol, i. p, 18.

Iwhiii

r the latent'sn of

ditch opened in
t of the wooden
)all8, and other
re the fort was

ic, embarked on
A^as soon disco-
was most unfa-
no fresh water ;
on to ripen, on
)n salted meat,
ty-six persons,
)d were reduced
ces, De Monts
ig a settlement,
pring, he visited
died Cape Cod.
ch pleased with
od were found
the small force
At this period,
lief part of the
autumn, De
and Champ-
g season, his
)ly of venison
cy also endea- 1 1
the strength

_'e, were active
reinforcement
on flour on the

NEW BRUNSWICK.

13th of May, IfiOO, in a vessel of 150 tons burthen, and, after a lon^^
passage, arrived at Canseau. They also visited Port Mouton ; but on
their arrival ut Port Royal on the 27th of July, they lamented to find
that Pontgrave had departed frouj the place twelve days before. He
had been instructed by De Monts to explore the coast southward of
Cape Cod, hut was twice compelled to return by contrary winds, and in
making a third attempt his vessel was wrecked. After building two
small vessels, which he loaded with his provisions and merchandise, he
sailed, leaving two of his men in charge of the goods he was unable to
remove.

After the return of De Monts and Potrincourt, the settlement at
Port Royal soon began to revive, and L'Escarbot, a respectable lawyer,
devoted his energies to the introduction of agriculture and the importa-
tion of domestic animals ; but Dc Monts was still very desirous to
establish himself farther to the south, where the climate was milder.
On the 28th of August he again returned to France, in company with
Pontgrave and Potrincourt ; Champlain and Champdore again made a
voyage to Cape Cod, where they were compelled to land in order to
repair the rudder of their vessel. Two guns were discharged at the
natives, who had stolen a hatchet. Tliis circumstance gave the savages
an excuse for declaring war, and acconlingly on the following morning
a shower of arrows was thrown among the French, two of whom were
killed and several wounded. The dead were buried at the foot of a
cross, and during the performance of the burial service, the natives, who
had fled into the woods, were dancing and yelling according to their
barbarous customs. No sooner had Potrincourt and his men embarked,
than they rushed out of the forest, tore down the cross, disinterred the
bodies, stripped them of their grave-clothes, and carried them off in
triumph. The French commander was afterwards driven by adverse
winds into the same harbour, where he caught seven of the savages, and
put them to death.*

There can be little doubt that it was from acts of violence committed by
the first voyagers to America upon the natives, that they were induced

I , , yi

• Haliburton, vol. i. page 21.

i'
ll

■ 1

lii

11?

NEW BRUNSWICl .

to cherish that spirit of retaliation which was so horribly inanifested
afterwards upon whole villages of European settlers, when neither
sex nor age was spared from the brutal violence of the tomahawk and
seal ping-knife. Alas ! too often was the untutored Indian shot down,
for acts which, according to his own laws and customs, were scarcely
punishable. Any retaliation made upon a single member of any tribe
called forth revenge ; but had those who first landed upon the shores
of America been governed by principles of equity, and practised for-
bearance, the red men of the forest would have been their friends, and
spared the lives of thousands slain to gratify a passion implanted in
their bosoms by the barbarous treatment their brethren had received
at the hands of the early visitors to the great continent.

Being again defeated in establishing a settlement to the southw.ard,
Potrincourt returned to Port Royal, where he was received by a pro-
cession which accompanied him to his house with much formality. The
whole company spent the ensuing winter in great festivity. A water-
mill was erected to grind their corn, and they had been successful in
fishing and hunting. Several hogsheads of pickled alewives were sent
to France, with other productions of the country. But the French
Colonists soon began to experience much uneasiness from the encamp-
ment of 400 Indians near their little fortress. The Acadian tribes
were at last discovered to be at war with the Armouchequois, or Cape
Cod Indians ; and the little army, under the command of Mambertou,
a celebrated Sachem, departed to join their friends of the Ouangondy, or
River St. John, whence they proceeded in their canoes to meet their
enemies. In this expedition they were successful, and Indian songs
commemorative of the battle fought have been transmitted down to the
present generation.

The French, after waiting with much anxiety for the return of De
Monts, were at last informed, by a vessel from Canseau, that their leader
T as in extreme difficulty in France. Complaints had been made that,
under the exclusive privileges held by him, he prevented vessels em-
ployed in fishing from obtaining necessary supplies, and his monopoly of
the fur-trade had given dissatisfaction. The Government, being very-
desirous to encourage the fishery, and willing to yield to tlie entreaties
of the merchants, cancelled the grant of Dc Monts, giving him the

I I J

NEW BRUNSWICK.

ly manifested
when neither
omahawk and
an shot down,
were scarcely
r of any tribe
)on the shores
practised for-
ir friends, and
implanted in
I had received

the soiithw.ard,
ived by a pro-
irmality. The
ity. A water-
in successful in
ivives were sent
lut the French
m the encamp-
Acadian tribes

uois, or Cape
of Mambertou,
Ouangondy, or

to meet their
Indian songs
;ed down to the

return of De
hat their leader
jen made that,
jd vessels em-
lis monopoly of
int, being very

the entreaties
;iving him the

paltry sum of 0,000 livres to reimburse him for 100,000 livres expended
in founding the Colony. To obtain that small sum, he was authorised
to levy a tax upon the peltries of the fur-traders, which, Champlain said,
"was like giving him the sea to drink." Although there is reason to
believe that he had abused the powers entrusted to him, and had been
cruel to his countrymen, yet his abrupt and sudden deprivation was
ungenerous and unjust.

Potrincourt lamented over the misfortunes of his friend, and resolved
to maintain the settlement of Port Royal, where he had a desire to
spend the remainder of his days with his family. After gathering the
first fruits of his harvest, and different kinds of ores from the rocks, he
sailed on the 11 th of August for France, Specimens of the grain and
other productions of Acadia were given to the King, who expressed
his gratification at the present. Potrincourt succeeded in obtaining a
grant of Port Royal, upon condition that he would support ten
Jesuits for the purpose of introducing Christianity among the savages.
But, although he was a Roman Catholic, he greatly disliked the Jesuits,
and endeavoured to get rid of two priests who had volunteered their ser-
vices for Acadia, Fearing that they would meddle with his afifairs, it
is said that he informed them, " they must leave him to rule the
people on earth, and merely guide them to heaven." After their
arrival at Port Royal, the priests sent back bitter complaints of their
treatment, and sought redress. From their statements, Madame de
Gourcherville, in the spring of 1613, despatched a vessel, with a number
of emigrants, from Honfleur to La Have, where two priests took pos-
session of the harbour, and set up the arras of the pious lady. The
vessel then proceeded to Port Royal, and the captain, M. Sausaye,
removed the reverend fathers from Potrincourt's settlement to Mount
Desert, where, with a few of the Colonists, they erected a cross, cele-
brated mass, and named the place St. Saviour. While this settler. ent
was in progress, they were attacked by Captain Argall, an Englishman,
in a vessel of 14 guns, bound to Virginia. After a spirited contest, in
which one of the priests was killed, the French surrendered, and most of
them were carried to James' Town. Argall pretended that they were
pirates, and accordingly the Governor determined to hang them ; but
finding that the matter had assumed a more serious aspect than he had

c 2

il'ii!

(

1 ■ .

■■ 1

■ ^ •

i::i

i;^i!

ililii

!P!l
I m

iiijj!

i^iii

^ NEW BRUNSWICK.

anticipated, tlie Captain acknowledged the facts, from which it appeared
that the prisoners were French subjects. As the two nations were at
peace, it might have been expected that the Governor at least would
have given Argall a severe reprimand ; but, so far was he from being
displeased, that he immediately ordered the Captain to attack other
French settlements. That officer soon appeared at Port Royal, and
captured the place almost without resistance. Some of the inhabitants
fled into the woods, others were carried away prisoners, and the whole
of the fortifications were thrown down. No complaint was made of
these aggressif^ns by France, which was satisfied when the prisoners were
restored. At this period the Colonies were considered of no value, and,
therefore, they became the prey of almost every armament that crossed
the Atlantic. Atadia is said to have been the favourite Colony of
Henry lY., but it does not appear that he supported it with any degree
of energy ; nor was England, nor any other European Power, active in
maintaining her rights, or resenting injuries inflicted upon the early
Colonists.

In 1621, Sir William Alexander obtained a free grant from James I,
of all the country extending from the St. Croix to the St. Lawrence.
In his patent this territory is, for the first time, called Nova Scotia,
which included New Brunswick and the islands in the Gulf of St.
Lawrence as far as Newfoundland. Sir William appears to have pos-
sessed a variety of talent, and was styled by the King a philosophical
poet. Among his poetical works, was one called the "Aurora," a long
complaint on his unsuccessful addresses to a young lady. He obtained
knighthood in 1G13, and was appointed one of the Gentlemen Ushers
to Prince Charles. In 1626, the King appointed him Secretary of
State for Scotland. He was also ere ted a Peer of that kingdom in
1630, under the title of Viscount Stirling ; and on the 14th of June,
1633, he was made Earl of Stirling. With the grant of Nova Scotia
he also received extraordinary powers, being made Lieutenant-
General, Justice-General, High Lord of Admiralty, with power to
create titles of honour, appoint bishops, and all other ofl^cers. The
only reservation made to the Crown in the patent, was a tenth part of
the royai mines of gold and silver, and five per cent, on the imports
and exports after the first seven years.

'1!!

iim^

NEW BRUNSWICK.

h it appeared
tions were at
t least would
ne from being

attack other
rt Royal, and
le inhabitants
ind the whole

was made of
jrisoners were
lo value, and,
t that crossed
te Colony of
til any degree
>wer, active in
ipon the early

from James I.
St. Lawrence.
Nova Scotia,
le Gulf of St.
to have pos-
philosophical
iirora," a long
He obtained
lemen Ushers
Secretary of
t kingdom in
14th of June,
Nova Scotia
Lieutenant-
tli power to
ifficers. The
tenth part of
n the imports

a^^

In 1625, Charles I., by a novodamus, renewed this patent,* to which
in 1 028 he added another, granting the whole course of the St. Law-
rence to the Gulf of California. This grant included Canada and the
chief part of the United States. An Order of Baronets was created,
" each of whom were to hold jurisdiction over a tract extending three
miles along the coast, and ten towards the interior, and to receive in
full property 16,000 acres of land. In return, each was bound to fit
out six men for the Colony, or to pay 2,000 marks. By an extraor-
dinary regulation, they were allowed to take seisin, or legal possession,
not on the spot, but on the Castle Hill of Edinburgh, Nova Scotia
being included in the county of that name."f

The honours, powers, and territories granted to Sir William, called
forth much ridicide from his witty contemporaries, who derided his
attempt to rise from a poet to a king, and, like Alexander, to rule
over a world unknown. There is no account of his ever having
visited his extensive territory in America in person ; but in 1622, he
fitted out a vessel, with a bodv of settlers, destined for Nova Scotia.
From numerous delays, the vessel was unable to proceed beyond New-
foundland during that season. In the ensuing spring, they coasted
along the shores ; but finding their principal harbours already occupied
by the French, who were not disposed to give up their possessions
peaceably, they returned to England, where they gave the most
favourable reports respecting the continent they had visited. War
soon broke out with France, and Sir William, in 1627, despatched a
small squadron under his eldest son, accompanied by Kertk, a French
refugee, known as Sir David Kirk. The forts at Port Royal, St.
Croix, and Pentagoet, were soon captured. At the former place,
young Alexander erected a new fortress, and took up his residence as
Governor of the country. J

During their voyage they captured eighteen French transports, with
135 pieces of cannon, and other valuable stores, destined for the fortifi-

• Narrative of Oppressive Proceedings against the Earl of Stirling, by Him-
self, 4to. Edinbin-gh 1836, p. 53—75.

i Case of the Honourable Baronets of Scotland and Nova Scotia, pp. 10—27.

t Deucher, Alexander, (Genealogist,) Memorial from the Stirling Papers,
— iM urray.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

cations at Quebec and Port Royal. In one of the captured transports
was Claude de la Tour, a gentleman of fortune and enterprise, who
held a large tract of land upon the St. John, under a grant from the
French Crown. Being brought to England, La Tour was introduced
to Sir William ; and in order to secure his lands, he agreed to establish
upon them a party of Scotch emigrants. Having entered into this new
engagement, he repaired to Cape Sable,* where there was a fort held
by his son. He employed every kind of entreaty and threat, to induce
young La Tour to co-operate with him in his arrangements with the
English ; but all was in vain, and his son indignantly refused to take
any part in an act which he considered treasonable. An engagement
took place between the parties : the son repulsed the father with con-
siderable loss ; and the latter, being ashamed to return to England, was
permitted to reside at the Cape ; but his son would not allow him to
enter the fort. Claude de la Tour returned afterwards to England ;
and Lord Stirling, it is said, promised to confirm to him Cape Sable,
and a considerable extent of the adjoining coast.-)-

It has been represented by some writers, that this was a cession of
the whole of Nova Scotia, excepting only Port Royal: such an opinion,
however, is exceedingly erroneous. The indenture, dated 30th of
April, 1636, was in the possession of Mr. Deucher; but the transac-
tion was never completed, J tts will appear from the fact, that La Tour
never took any possession of the district referred to, but brought out
a party of Scotch emigrants to the west side of the basin near Port
Royal (Granville), where he built a fort, the remains of which are still
called the Old Scotch Fort.§ At this place thirty of the emigrants
died during the winter.

In 1629, Kirk took possession of Cape Breton, and conquered
Canada. Britain now held, by possession and conquest, all this part
of America ; yet no importance appears to have been attached to these
Colonies at this period, and by the Treaty of St. Germain's, Charles I.

* The harbour where the fort stood is now called Port la Tour, where the
remains of the fortification may still be seen.

t Historical Account of British America, by Hugh Murray, F.R.S.E.,
vol. i. p. 12r»; Ilaliburton, vol. i. pp. 43, 44.

1 Deucher, Alexander. § Haliburton, vol. i. p. 45.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

resigned his right to New France to Louis XIII., and the country was
soon taken possession of by the French, who poured into it great
numbers of emigrants. Home, who was in command of Nova Scotia
at the time of this impolitic measure, received orders to demolish his
fort, to remove British inhabitants, and abandon the country. To
meet the expenses he had incurred. Lord Stirling received a grant from
the Government of £10,000. It was, nevertheless, acknowledged that
his patent was still in force. It has been stated by some, that the
King considered that he had only given up certain places, oad still
possessed a right to occupy parts of the country.*

Having obtained possession of Acadia, the French Court sent out
Razillai, Commander-in-Chief, having granted to hi.u the Bay and
River of St. Croix. On his arrival at La Hav ;, he was so much
charmed with the situation, that, with the permission of La Tour, he
took up his residence there, and built a fort,

Claude de la Tour had obtained a grant of a Isirge tract of country
bordering on the St. John. Charles Etienne de la Tour, his eldest and
surviving son, had a portion confirmed to him of Isle of Sable, La Have,
Port Royal, and Minas, with large tracts of the adjoining lands, and
also the country bordering on the St. John, granted to his father in
1627. Monsieur Denys held all the remaining paits of the Province,
from Canseau to Gaspe Bay, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Notwithstanding the Treaty of St. Germain's, the English having
opened extensive settlements between Florida and Kenebec, were

* Case of the Baronets of Nova Scotia, pp. 28, 32, 34 ; Murray, vol. i.
pp. 125, 126. At the present time, strong claims, founded on the above grants
and transactions, are liefore the Govpvmnent. (See some articles on the sub-
ject in "Simmonds's Colonial Magazine," vol. iv. p. 1, and vol. viii. p. 129.)
It had been supposed that the titles of the House of Stirling had become ex-
tinct ; but his descendants have appeared, and are now seeking the considera-
tion of those rights they have derived from their celebrated ancestor. If the
heirs of Lord Stirling and the Baronets of Nova Scotia should be permitted to
carry out the objects of the original patent, which was the actual settlement
of wild landa in America, tlicy would yet find abundant scope for all their
energies, as there arc still immense tracts oi excellent land remaining in a
wilderness state.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

gradually increasing in wealth and population ; whereby they effectually
prevented the French from extending their operations beyond the latter
river, which was then considered the western boundary of Acadia.
Razillai captured Pemaquid, and carried the goods belonging to the
English Colonists at Plymouth to La Have. Soon afterwards he
died, and the government of the country was assumed by Daubre de
Charnisse, who was subsequently appointed Governor by a Royal
Commission. Claude de la Tour, and aiuerwards his son, had erected
forts and made other improvements on the St. John, which, from being
navigable to a great distance, afforded the best channel of commu-
nication to Bay Chaleurs and Quebec. Thf^ Indians who frequented
this river were also numerous, and with them La Tour carried on a
profitable trade. Whether from jealousy arising from those circum-
stances, or from other causes, it is not known, but there arose a
deadly strife between him and Charnisse, who soon entered into open
warfare with his countryman.

Accounts of the disturbance having reached France, Louis XIII.
addressed a letter to Charnisse, dated 10th February, 1638, and in it
defined the limits of the country claimed by the contending parties.
Charnisse's territory extended from a line drawn from the centre of the
Bay of Fundy, to Canseau on one side, and New England on the other.
The remaining part of Acadia was assigned to La Tour. Permission
was granted to Charnisse to occupy La Have and Port Royal. La
Tour was allowed to hold his own fort on the St. John, and both were
required to keep within the bounds prescribed. Reconciliation neverthe-
less did not follow ; accusations from both parties were transmitted to
the King, who finally sent out an order to Charnisse to arrest La Tour,
and send him to France. In the commencement of the quarrel. La
Tour obtained aid from the people of Massachusetts ; but his enemy
made it appear that he was an outlaw, and for that purpose sent an
af^ent to Boston with a copy of the warrant for La Tour's apprehen-
sion. This negotiation resulted in an agreement between Endicott, the
Governor of New England, and Charnisse, in which the former pro-
mised to remain neutral. La Tour had previously chartered four armed
vessels and employed eighty volunteers from Boston ; with this aid he
returned to the St. John, whence he compelled Charnisse to retreat to

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Louis XIII.

38, and in it

iding parties.

centre of the

on the other.

Permission

Royal. La

nd both were

ion neverthe-

ransmitted to

est La Tour,

quarrel. La

it his enemy

)ose sent an

s apprehen-

Indicott, the

former pro-

1 four armed

h this aid he

to retreat to

his fort at Penobscot. Madame La Tour had beeji engaged in Eng-
land in adjusting her husband's affairs, and having completed her work,
she sailed for the St. John ; but the master of the vessel proceeded to
the St. Lawrence, and having finished his traffic there, finally set the
lady on shore at Boston. For this violation of his charter, and the loss
Madame La Tour had sustained by him, she recovered £2,000 da-
mages. She then proceeded to the fort on the St. John, and Chamisse
having heard of the absence of her husband, pursued her, and attacked
her fortress, which, from being commanded by o female, he probably
thought would be an easy conquest. But the lady defended the place
with great spirit, and her artillery fired with so much precision, that
Chamisse's frigate was rendered unmanageable, and he was compelled
to draw off beyond the range of the cannon. In the engagement he
had twenty men killed and thirte.m A'ounded. Having repaired his
vessel, he returned to Penobscot, unoer the humiliating reflection of
having attacked a w.man during the absence of her husband, and
received at her hands an ample chastisement for his ungallant and
cowardly behaviour.

From motives of policy, the people of Massachusetts now refused to
afford La Tour any farther assistance, and Charnisse seized another
opportunity to attack the fort, when he was absent on a trading excur-
sion. Having sailed up the River St. John, a siege was commenced,
which, from the weakness of the garrison, offered a chance of conquest.
But Madame La Tour, with a handful of men, was determined to defend
the place even at the risk of sacrificing her own life, and during three
days the besiegers were several times repulsed and compelled to retreat.
On the fourth day, which happened to be Easter Sunday, she was
unfortunate'/ betrayed by a mutinous Swiss, who had gone over to the
enemy and communicated information fatal to the safety of the heroic
woman. Even under ihis untoward circumstance, her courage did not
fail ; and when Charnisse had scaled the wall, she met him in the front
of her little garrison, and ready to perish in her husband's cause. Hav-
ing reason to fear so brave a person, and having been several times
beaten by a woman, Charnisse proi)oscd a capitulation, which Madame
La Tour accepted for the humane purpose of saving the lives of the
few brave men who had so long defended the place against a superior

iiiii'i

2(>

NEW BRUNSWICK.

IPlIti

force. liut no sooner had her cowardly adversary signed the articles of
capitulation, entered the fort, and observed its defenceless state, than he
immediately hanged all the survivors, reserving only one, whom he
forced to execute his comrades. Besides this act of fiendish barbarity,
he compelled Madame La Tour to witness the revolting and inhuman
scene, and also led her to the gallows with a halter round her neck.
- All the ordnance, stores, merchandise, furs, and plate of great value
were carried away by the cowardly conqueror to Penobscot. The
privations and perils Madame La Tour had suffered — the dreadful fate
of her family and followers, with the loss of fortune and the danger to
which her husband would consequently be exposed, broke with great
violence upon the health of this heroic woman, and slie died shortly
afterwards, deeply lamented by all who had heard of her name and
misfortunes.

The above fort* was situated at the mouth of the Gemsec, a deep
and narrow channel between the Grand Lake and the main river.

• Mr. Haliburton, in hia History of Nova Scotia, has given a description of
the fort at the Gemsec, taken from an original inventory dated 5th August,
1670, as follows : —

" First — At the entering in of the said fort, upon the left hand, we found a
court of guard, of about fifteen paces long and ten broad, havhig upon the
right hand a house of the like length and breadth, built with hewn stone, and
covered with shingles ; and above them there is a chapel, of about six paces
long and four paces broad, covered with shingles and built with terras, upon
which there is a small turret, wherein there is a little bell, weighing about
eighteen pounds.

"More — Upon the left hand as we entered into the court, there is a maga-
zine, having two stories, built of stone and covered with shingles, being in
length about thirty-six paces, and ten in breadth ; which magazine is very old,
and wanted nnich reparation; under which there is a little cellar, in which
there is a little wel). And upon the other side of said court, being on the right
hand, there is a house of the same length and breadth the magazine is, being
half covered with shingles, and the rest uncovered, and wanted much repara-
tion. Upon the ramparts of the said fort are twelve iron guns, weighing in all
21,122-pounds.

"More— We do find in said fort six murthcrers, without chambers, weighing
1 ,200 pounds.

" More— 200 iron bullets, from three to eight pounds.

■I

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Under this burden of misfortunes, La Tour applied for aid to Sir
David Kirk, who at that time was Governor of Newfoundland. That
application was unsuccessful ; but his friends at Boston supplied him
with a sum of money, and a vessel, whereby ho was able to revive his
trade with the Indians of the St. John and Bay of Fundy. For those
two acts of kindness it is said he made them a most ungrateful return.

In 1651, Charnisse being dead, La Tour was recalled, and he mar-
ried the widow of his inveterate enemy. About this time Chaniisse's
sister also died, having bequeathed her property in Acadia to La Tour,
whereby he obtained possession of the whole country. But La Tour
le Borgne, to whom Charnisse owed a large siun of money, took pro-
ceedings against the property of the deceased, and obtained a decree
from the Court of France to take possession of the lands owned by the
debtor. This individual, evidently with a desire of obtaining the whole
Colony, fitted out an expedition, and first attacked Monsieur Denys,
whom he took, and having put him in irons, sent him to Port Royal.
He then destroyed all the buildings and fortifications belonging to
Denys at Chedabucto and La Ha\ e, among which, at the latter place,
was a chapel that cost 100,000 francs. La Tour's fort on the St. John
still remained uncaptured ; and while Borgne was making preparations
for its reductior;, he was preceded by Colonel Sedgewick, who was
commissioned by Oliver Cromwell in 1654 to recover Nova Scotia
from the French. Having defeated La Tour on the St. John, Sedge-

.mbcrs, weighing

" Lastly — About thirty or forty paces from said fort, there is a small out-
house, being about twenty paces in length and eight in breadth, built with
planks and covered with shingles, which do not serve for any use but to house
cattle.

"il/ore— About fifty paces from said outhouse, there is a square garden,
enclosed with rails ; in which garden there are about fifty or sixty trees bear-
ing fruit.

(Signed) " Le Chevalier de Grand.

Fontaine.
Jean Maillard.
Richard Walker.
Isaac Garner.

Marshall, Seii/."

1 ' 111 111 II

NEW BRUNSWICK.

wick ■attacked Lc Borf^ne at Port Royal, and captured the place, al-
most without resistance, notwithstanding it contained a strong garrison,
a number of cannon, and plenty of provisions. Pentagoet, or Penobs-
cot, was also taken, and the whole country again fell into the hands of
the English.*

During these struggles in the infant Colony, French settlements were
made on the shores of the Bay Chaleurs. In the year 1()38 or 1639,
when Acadia was held by Razillai, La Tour, and Denys, Jean Jacques
Enaud commenced the clearing and improvement of a tract of land on
the northern shore of New Brunswick (now so called). •)• Enaud was a
native of Basque in France, whence he emigrated, with a number of
families, to America. It does not appear that he obtained a grant of
land from the French Government, and therefore it is probable that he
was licensed by Denys, or that his district was supposed to belong to
Canada. He was related to the Governor of Quebec, and it has been
said that he obtained a title to all the lands between Grande Ance and
Jacquet River. Enaud appears to have been in r.ffluent circumstances.
He had trading establishments at Baie des Vents Island, and other
places along the coast ; but his principal residence was at Abshaboo
(now Bathurst), at the mouth of the Nepisiquit. From the peculiarity
of the situation, in a deep bay, and remote from the settlements made
by the French and English on the Atlantic coast, Enaud and his fol-
lowers were in some degree exempt from those broils and conflicts that
so often disturbed the peace of the southern districts. Indeed, the
settlements of these people in Acadia do not appear to have been gene-
rally known at the time, as history is almost silent upon the subject.

The situation of La Tour's fort, at the mouth of the Gemsec, on the
St. John, was such that he could readily have communicated with and
obtained aid from Enaud, provided they were on friendly terms ; but
the existence of a correspondence between those persons is only tradi-
tional. Having carried on an extensive trade in furs, and having

• Haliburton, p. 60, 6L

f No particular account of Enaud, and the settlements made by him in New
France, or Acadia, is found among the historical records of the time. Those
accounts have been obtained from letters and MSS. still in possession of the
descendants of the Acadian French.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

iiO

cttlements were

1638 or 1639,

s, Jean Jacques

ract uf land on

Ennud was a

h a number of

ined a grant of

robable that he

3d to belong to

md it has been

"inde Ance and

circumstances.

and, and other

;is at Abshaboo

the peculiarity

ttlements made

ud and his fol-

d conflicts that

Indeed, the

ive been gene-

the subject.

Jemsec, on the

ated with and

ly terms ; but

is only tradi-

and having

by him in New
le time. Those
ossession of the

|)ursued the taking of the walrus, or sea-cow, for several years, dmiiig
which time Les Jfabitans had become the occupants of the best situa-
tions, and greatly increased in numbers, Enaud married a Mohawk
woman, the daughter of a renowned Sachem, or Chief; but, from a
quarrel that took place in the family, he was murdered by his v iiV-'s
brother. At this period, the Mohawks of Ouspe and Canada were at
war against the Micmacs of Acadia. The Nepisiquit was the boundary
between the two tribes. The Mohawks were victorious, and such of
Enaud's followers as escaped their vengeance were compelled to fly to
the Isle St. John. Even to the present time, the Micmacs of the
northern shores of New Brunswick are terrified at the long, tremulous
whoop of the Mohawk Indian. The French emigrants did not retiirn
to their lands until about 1G68 ; and in 1670 they had resumed their
settlements at Nepisiquit, Grande Ance, and Caraquctte. In l(>f)2
they were again destined to experience new trials and adversities. The
Micmacs, with whom they had long been upon friendly terms, had
become jealous of the intrusions made by the white men, whom they now
resolved to drive away. Led by a desperate chief, called Ilalion, they
attacked the settlements, drove away the cattle, and burned the houses ;
and such of the inhabitants as escaped their fury were compelled to
leave the country.

During all the changes of rulers, the inconstancy of the mother-
country, the fickleness of the Indians, and the determination of the
English to avenge the disloyalty of the French by banishment, they
never altogether abandoned Acadia.

The religion of the Roman Catholics, from its numerous and peculiar
exhibitions, strikes the mind of the savage with far greater force than
the forms of Protestant worship. The French priests found little difR-
culty in converting the North American Indians so far to their faith,
that they became their temporal as well as their spiritual guides ; and
they often led them to battle against the English, who had taken little
pains to convert the savages to Christianity. The French Government,
in order to obtain allies from 'hese warlike tribes, offered large bounties
to such of their subjects as would marry with them. Several of the
priests, and many of the French inhabitants, adopted the habits and
customs of the Indians ; and the latter took to themselves wives of the

ii'iiii

;'*

NKW BRUNSWICK.

red women of the forests. From these hnve sprunpf n monp^rel race,
whose mixed features may still be seen in some parts of the Province.
It is, therefore, not surprising that the lineage of individuals who now
hold respectable situations can be traced to some renowned warrior or
wise Sachem of the Etchmins or Abcnakis tribes.

Notwithstanding the country was conquered by the English, the
increase of the French population, which was scattered in small villages
along the coasts and borders of the principal rivers, afforded France a
decided advantage when the two nations were at war. Tiittle pains
were therefore taken by the English to maintain a Colony that had
already been given away several times, and whose lands had frequently
been ceded to private individuals.

In order to secure his property and trade. La Tour wns ready to
submit to any Government into whose hands Acadia might fall ; he
therefore urged his claim upon the English, and pk-aded the grant
made of Acadia to his father by Lord Stirling. His application was
supported by persons of influence in England, and he again obtained
the chief part of the country, which he sold to Mr. Temple, afterwards
Sir Thomas Temple.

This gentleman expended £16,000 in erecting fortifications, and he
carried on a lucrative trade ; but by the treaty of Breda, concluded in
1667 by Charles II., Acadia was again given up to France. Temple
endeavoured to retain a part of the country, by making o distinction
between Acadia and Nova Scotia ; but he was finally ordered to
deliver up the whole territory to the French.

Even at this period the country was considered scarcely worth being
protected, and its inhabitants were exposed to numerous pirates that
infested the coast. Among these was the notorious Captain Kidd,
whose money, some have believed, is still buried on the shores of New
Brunswick. The pirates not only plundered the inhabitants, but
actually took the forts at the Gemsec, on the St. John, and at Pen-
tagoet.

Upon the breaking out of the war that followed the Revolution of
1688, the defenceless state of Nova Scotia rendered her an easy con-
quest, and the people of Massachusetts resolved to attempt the
achievehient of the enterprise. Accordingly, an expedition was fitted

'1;* i

NEW HHUNSWrCK.

uiit under the command of Sir William Phipps.* Three ahips, heHulon
transports and 700 men, appeared heforc Port Royal on the 20th of
May, 1690. The garrison consisted of only 80 men. Manival, the
French Governor, obtained a very favourable capitulation under the
circumstances. It has been stated by Freneli writers, that Sir William
Phipps violated the articles upon which Manival surrendered.
Having ailministered the oath of allegiance to the inhabitants, he
carried away the Governor, 40 soldiers, and two priests. He then
proceeded to Chedabucto, occupied by Montorquil, the successor of
Deiiys ; and finding the fortification resolutely defended, he set fire to
the place, and granted a capitulation to the small but brave g;ir-
rison, who were safely conducted to Placentia. Sir William then
destroyed the chapel and other buildings of Isle Perce.

During this miserable state of the country, two pirates appeared at
Port Royal, wliere their crews pillaged the country, set fire to 'the
buildings, and burned one whole family in their i welling. Port Royal
was shortly afterwards taken possession of by Chevalier Vi'labon, who
captured the place by pulling down the English flag, and hoisting
French colours in its place. Villabon, who was commissioned by the
French Government to take the command of Nova Scotia, recovered a
considerable sum of money that had been buried by one Des Gautius
previous to the landing of Sir William Phipps, and then proceeded to
attack the fort on the River St. John ; but on his passage thither he was
overtaken by a pirate, who captured his vessel, which contained, besides
a large sum of money, the presents intended to secure the alliance of
the savages.

Tlie old Charter of Massachusetts having been fbrfeited, a new
one wavS granted by William and Mary. One of the provisos in the
new charter was, that no land should be granted between the Sagada-
hock and the Gulf of St. Lawrence without the special permission of
the King, whereby a plain distinction was made between Nova Scotia
and Massachusetts.

• Sir William Phipps, the son of a blacksmith, was born at Pemaquid, in 1G50.
In the early part of his life, he built a vessel, and recovered from a Spanish
wreck at Hispaniola £300,000. He was afterwards Governor of Massa-
chusetts.

?fl

I-. •»

■(■ '

NEW BRUNSWICK.

' iilii

^ii'i:i!i!

Although Acadia, which then included within its bounds New Bruns-
wick, had been conquered by the English, it was nevertheless in the
possession of the French. Villabon occupied the fort* on the St. John,
which was the resort of the French and great numbers of Indians. In
1691 he made Mr. Nelson, wl; ' had been appointed Governor of Nova
Scotia, a prisoner, and sent hiin to Quebec, whence he was carried to
France.

From the forts on the St. John the French and Indians were sup-
plied with arms and ammunition, with which they made frequent
attacks upon the villages of New England. The Government of Mas-
sachusetts, therefore, resolved to stop the supplies sent out annually
from France to that river. vn armed vessel called the " Sorrel" was
sent to cruize in the Bay, und having met the French frigate with the
supplies, a desperate engagement ensued ; but she was beaten off, and
the'supplies landed in safety. By numerous presents and the influence
of the French priests, Villabon was successful in securing the aid of the
Indian tribes. He was joined at St. John by Iberville, who arrived
from Quebec with a body of soldiers and fifty Micmac Indians ; he
was also reinforced by Baron Castine, who had lived many years among
the savages and married a squaw. With these forces ViHn' on captured
Pemaquid, where the Indians were permitted to murder several of the
English prisoners.

The people of Massachusetts, being aroused by numerous acts of
cruelty committed on their countiymen, sent Colonel Church with
500 men to Nova Scotia, and the country was soon regained, with the
exception of the fort on the St. John. He called upon the Acadians to
assist him in subduing the Indians ; but they refused their aid, where-
upon they were considered enemies, and the soldiers, a^'ier plundering
the inhabitants, set fire to their buildings. The situation of the Colo-
nists at this period was truly deplorable. They scarcely knew at
times to what country or nation they belonged. They were strongly
attached to France, and when they refused to be loyal to the British

• In regard to the fortifications on the St. John, only the fort at the Gemsec
is generally mentioned by historians : but there are remains of other military
works along the banks of the river, of which some notice will be taken in
another chapter.

;ls New Bruns-
•theless in the
m the St. John,
f Indians. In
/^ernor of Nova
was carried to

iaus were sup-
made frequent
nment of Mas-
it out annually
" Sorrel " was
frigate with the
beaten off, and
id the influence
Z the aid of the
le, who arrived
ic Indians ; he
ly years among
n' on captured
several of the

nerous acts of
Church with
f\ined, with the
le Acadians to
eir aid, where-
ver plundering
of the Colo-
cely knew at
were strongly
the British

at the Gemscc
other military ^^
lill be taken in

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Crown, they were compelled to bear all the penalties of rebellion. The
Province remained in the possession of the English until 1696, when,
by the Treaty of Ryswick, it was again given to France.

The memorable war of Queen Anne commenced in 1702. The vic-
tories of Marlborough, and the universal success of British arms, were
followed by a desire to improve the Colonies in America. New Eng-
land having suffered much from the savages who were allied with the
French in Acadia, resolved to gain by war what had so often been lost
by treaty. She had solicited the mother-country to relieve her of
Acadia, which up to this time had formed a part of the Colony ; but
now the success of the English abroad called forth new energies in the
people, who were desirous to share in the glories of their countrymen.

In 1704, an expedition, commanded by Colonel Church, was sent to
Nova Scotia. They arrived at Beau Basin (now Cumberland), where
the inhabitants were required to join them in the extermination of the
Indians. Upon their refusal to take up arms against their allies, their
houses were burned, their dikes opened, cattle destroyed, and their
goods plundered. This expedition terminated in producing the greatest
possible distress among the Acadian settlers, and reflected but little
credit upon the English Provincial troops, or the individual by whom
they were commanded. Church returned to Massachusetts, where he
was reinforced. He then proceeded up the St. John, and attacked the
fort commanded by Villabon ; but the place was so well defended, that
he re-embarked his men and retired.

Three years afterwards, 1,000 men were sent to complete the con-
quest of the country ; but Subercase, the French commander at Port
Royal, defended the place with so much ability, that the assailants
were compelled to raise the siege. Shortly afterwards, another unsuc-
cessful attempt was made by the people of Massachusetts to capture
that fortress.

In 1710, an expedition was fitted out from Boston Bay, consisting
of four men-of-war, two galleys, and fourteen transports, with one regi-
ment of marines and four regiments of Provincial soldiers. These forces
were put under the command of General Nicholson. The armament
arrived at Port Royal on the 24th September, and the troops were
landed without opposition. Subercase, the Governor, having a garrison

■»]■

NEW BRUNSWICK.

I III;

M'l'l

'111

of only 260 men, made but a feeble resistance, and soon capitulated.
The artillery taken by the English was purchased by the Government
for 7,499 livres, and the prisoners were sent to Rochelle. The ex-
penses incurred by New England in conquering Nova Scotia at this
time amounted to £23,000. This sum was afterwards reimbursed by
Parliament.

The Court of France, fearing that Acadia would be irrecoverably
lost, employed every means, through the medium of the French Mis-
sionaries and by presents, to secure the affections of the Acadians and
Indians. Castine, with a body of the latter and a few French, defeated
a party of the English. He also invested Port Royal, and the Mar-
quis d'Ailoigniers was ordered from France in great haste to aid him ;
but the arrival of an English fleet in the Gulf of St. Lawrence effectu-
ally checked these movements, and Castine's army dispersed.

During these operations, the Peace of Utrecht was concluded, be-
tween England and France, on the 11th April, 1713. By the articles
of the treaty, all Acadia, or Nova Scotia, according to its ancient
limits, was ceded to Great Britain, and France was now for ever de-
prived of the Colony.*

General Nicholson, having conquered the country, was in 1714
appointed Governor. He was afterwards succeeded by General Philips,
and Port Royal, the capital of Nova Scotia, was named Annapolis.

From the severity of the climate, and dread of the savages, few Bri-
tish settlers were disposed to take up their residence in the Province,
and the population consisted of French Acadians, of whom there were
4,000 men capable of bearing arms. These people were strongly at-
tached to their native country, and always lived in the hope that France
would finally conquer and hold the Colony, for which object they were
ready to lend their aid. As they were known to be hostile to the
British, whenever a war occurred they were called upon to take the
oath of allegiance, to which many of them submitted, under the reser-
vation that they should not be compelled to fight against their country-
men. They were also exempt from the payment of any taxes, and
permitted to trade with France.

taken

* Haliburton, vol. i. p. 92.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

X capitulated.
Government
le. The ex-
Scotia at this
eimbursed by

irrecoverably
! French Mis-
Acadians and
ench, defeated
and the Mar-
ie to aid him ;
irrence efFectu-
rsed.

joncluded, be-
By the articles
to its ancient
IV for ever de-
was in 1714
eneral Philips,
Annapolis,
rages, few Bri-
the Province,
om there were
•e strongly at-
pe that France
ect they were
hostile to the
n to take the
der the reser-
their country-
,ny taxes, and

I 1

From this period the Acadians were called French Neutrals. But
the Indians, who had always been attached to the French, were not con-
quered, and refusing to become the subjects of Britain, they availed
themselves of every opportunity that offered to plunder the English,
upon many of whom they inflicted their savage tortures. Being well
acquainted with the country, they would pass over it, carrying their
canoes upon their shoulders between the rivers with great rapidity ; and
being often assisted by the French Neutrals, they bade defiance to the
Government, and remained lords of their native soil.

In the year 1720, a strong body of the Richibucto Indians, assisted
by a party of the Penobscot tribe, made an attack upon Canseau, and
other places on the eastern shores of Nova Scotia, and carried off pro-
perty to the amount of £20,000. They were commanded by a saga-
cious and powerful chief called Argimoosh, or the " Great Witch."
In 1723, they captured seventeen sail of fishing-vessels from Massa-
chusetts. A number of persons fell victims to this outrage, and many
were put to the most cruel tortures. Governor Philips happened to be
in the vicinity of Canseau at the time of this outrage, and sent two
sloops well prepared, under the direction of Mr. Elliot of Boston, and
Mr. Robinson of Cape Ann, in quest of the Indians. Elliot found
seven vessels in a harbour called Winnepang, and immediately attacked
them. The Indians, seeing him approach, cried out, " Strike, English
dogs!" and a desperate conflict ensued, in which the aborigines defended
themselves with great bravery for some time, but finally retreated to
the holds of the vessels, and fired upwards through their decks. Elliot
threw hand-grenades among them, and they then plunged into the sea,
where nearh all of them were either drowned or shot. Elliot was
severely wcuiiueu , five of his men were killed, and several much in-
jured. The crews of the seven vessels thus captured, when they were
taken by the Indians at Canseau, amounted to forty ;o arsons : of these,
fifteen were rescued, nine had been murdered, and '.'le remainder sent
ar slaves to the Indian settlements at Richibucto Mr. Robinson cap-
tured ten schooners, and killed a number of the marauders. The
crews of the remainder of the vessels were obtained by ransom.*

Haliburton.

I) 2

■'■!

NEW BRUNSWICK.

These Indians and their allies had taken up a strong position at
Kenebec, where they occupied a fort defended by artillery. In order
to dislodge them, Massachusetts in 1728 sent forward a body of troops.
After a desperate battle, the savages were driven out of their fortress,
and pursued with great slaughter. Ralle, the French Roman Catholic
missionary, it is said, fought with great spirit until he was killed. The
fort was demolished, and the victory gained overawed the Indians, v ' o
afterwards adopted a more sly but not less deadly system of warfare.

The long peace between Great Britain and France terminated in
1744, and war w. s again commenced. Quesnel, the Governor of Cape
Breton, at the ^ i? :/ commencement of hostilities took Canseau and laid
siege to Annapolis ; but the defence of the latter place was so well con-
ducted, that he was compelled to withdraw his troops. New England,
in the mean time, with extraordinary zeal and courage, determined
upon the capture of Louisburg, which was then the stronghold of the
French in America, and consequently well fortified. Four thousand
men were raised in Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Hampshire.
These were put under the command of Colonel Pepperall, and trans-
ports were provided to convey the little army to the field of their
intended operations. This expedition was fitted out under the influence
of religious enthusiasm, and was considered a kind of crusade against
the idolatrous worship of the Church of Rome. A chaplain marched
with the troops, carrying a aatchet, to break the im&^cs that might be
found ill the possession of the enemy ; and Whitefield, the celebrated
Methodist preacher, furnished a suitable motto for the occasion. This
enthusiastic armament appeared before Louisburg on the 30th of April,
1745 ; and as its arrival was unexpected by the French garrison, the
Provincial troops soon landed and captured a battery, turning the guns
upon other parts of the fortifications. After a most unparalleled strug-
gle in erecting batteries and making assaults, the garrison of Louisburg
surrendered ; and when the assailants had entered the forts, they were
astonished at their own success, for the works were capable of defence
against a much greater force. But the French had become dispirited
from the arrival of English men-of-v/ar ; they had also lost one of their
own ships ; and tbe industry and valour of the besiegers were calculated
to intimidate them, strong as their position was deemed.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

The conquest of Cape Breton reflected great credit upon the Provin-
cial troops, most of whom were traders and farmers who possessed but
little knowledge of military affairs. The capture of St. John (now
Prince Edward's Island) soon followed. By hoisting French colours at
the captured forts, a vessel from the Soutli Sea and two East Indiainen
were decoyed and taken with cargoes which were valued at f 600,000.

In order to retrieve these losses, France sent a fleet into the Ameri-
can Seas of no less than seventy ships, including eleven of the line, with
3,000 troops, under the command of the Duke d'Anville, who was
instructed to take Louisburg iind Annapolis, and, after capturing other
forts along the American coast, to proceed to the West Indies. This
fleet sailed from Brest in the summer of 1746, and escaped a British
sqi'' Iron that was stationed to observe its movements. From a series
of disasters and tempestuous weather, it did not arrive at Chebucto
until three months afterwards, when four of the ships were rendered
unfit for service. Some of the fleet had been driven back by adverse
winds, so that the expedition failed altogether. D'Anville, unable to
bear so great a disappintment, died suddenly ; and Destourville, the
Vice-Admiral, ran a sword through his own body. De la Jonquiere,
then Governor of Canada, in the hope of turning the scale of fortune,
proceeded against Annapolis ; but in turning Cape Sable, he was met
by a tempest — his fleet was broken up, and he was compelled to return
to France. The English Colonists believed that these disasters arose
from the immediate interposition of Divine Providence, and celebrated
the events by a general thanksgiving.

So determined were the French to take Nova Scotia, that they des-
patched another fleet, of thirty-eight sail, under De la Jonquiere. This
fleet was overtaken by Admirals Anson and Warren, who defeated the
French, and captured two ships, one of which was an I<)ast Indiaman
richly laden.

Notwithstanding the great expense of maintaining her power in Ame-
rica, by the taking of all the fortifications possessed by the French along
the coast, Louisburg was again given up by the British, greatly to the
mortification of the Provincials, who had gallantly maintained the mili-
tary character of the nation, and driven their enemies from their strong-
holds on the American shores.

'li!

■I I

^i'i;

ill

NEW BRUNSWICK.

About this period, Nova Scotia began to attract tlie attention of
individuals in Britain, and it was proposed to make a settlement in the
Province from the troops that had been disbanded in consequence of
the peace. Every private soldier was allowed fifty acres of land, and
officers a greater quantity, in proportion to their rank. By the encou-
ragement held out by the Government, 3,760 persons, including many
with families, in 1749 were landed at Chebucto — since called Halifax,
after Lord Halifax, the patron of the expedition. Notwithstanding
these settlers enjoyed the fostering care of their sovereign, and their
safety and comfort were duly provided for, they were exposed to great
privations, and suffered much from the attacks of the Indians, Some
of them were made captives, and met with scalping, lingering tortures,
and death ; others were held in dreadful captivity, and dragged almost
naked through pathless forests and deep snows, until death was preferred
to life ; and many were sold as articles of merchandise in the market at
Louisburg, where the French, under humane pretensions, extorted
heavy rai/soms.

At this early period disputes arose respecting the boundary of
Acadia, or Nova Scotia. The claims of the French extended from the
St. Croix to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and eastward to the peninsula
of Chignecto, embracing the present Province of New Brunswick. The
Acadians and Indians occupied a fort on the River St. John, and
Beau-Sejour at Cumberland. M. La Corne had landed at Bay Verte,
with 600 men, from Canada, and commenced building a fort. The
Indians were supplied with arms, and the town of Halifax was in
danger of being seized. Major Lawrence was therefore despatched
with a detachment of soldiers to dislodge the enemy ; but after two
attempts to capture Beau-Sejour, he retired, and erected a fort on
an opposite point of land, to check the operations of his adversaries.
During these violations of the treaty, and the open hostilities of the
French Neutrals, the Courts of France made fair promises, but no
effectual measures were applied to render the British inhabitants
secure, either in their property or persons. In this state of affairs in
Nova Scotia, hostilities were again commenced, by the capture of two
French men-of-war, on the coast of Newfoundland, by Admiral Bos-
cawen. Those ships were the Alceide of 64 guns, and Lys of 52

ii' I':

NEW BRUNSWICK.

guns, which had been sent out to aid the disaffected portion of the
inhabitants in the Colony.

War having been commenced, New England again manifested her
usual patriotism, and despatched Lieutenant-Colonel Moncton, who,
after a bombardment of four days, reduced Fort Bcau-Sejour. lie then
proceeded to the St. John ; but the fort at this placL' was abandoned
previous to his arrival.*

The Acadians had extended their settlements to all the principal
rivers in Nova Scotia. In New Brunswick also they occupied small
villages at Bay Verte, Shediac, Richibucto, Miramichi, and other
places on the southern shore of the Bay Chaleurs, where the remains of
their fortifications are still to be seen. Although they had been
greatly disturbed in the settlement of the country, their population
now amounted to 18,000 souls. They owned 60,000 head of cattle ;
and, by their frugality and industry, they had obtained almost every
comfort required in their simple mode of living. They still cherished
a warm attachment to their native country, from which if they were
frequently separated by war, they were as often restored by peace.
Happy would they indeed have been, if they had 'adhered closely to
their promises of neutrality, and, in their alliance with the aborigines,
had endeavoured to restrain them from those outrages they had com-
mitted upon helpless English families. So far from observing the
oaths they had taken, many took up arms against the British upon
every favourable occasion, and they aided the savages in their cruel
warfare against the subjects of their sovereign. Neither the life nor
the property of a British subject was safe in the country, which,
although it belonged to Great Britain, was really in the hands of the
French Acadians and the Indians. The savages themselves were
imder the control of the French priests, who lived among them, and
frequently adopted their customs. With them the Acadians had
intermarried, and two races of people, whose original habits and
manners were extremely different, soon became strangely amalgamated ;
the one forsaking a part of their civilisation, and the other a part of
their barbarity. All the efforts of the English to reconcile those people

• Halibuiton, vol. i. p. 1 12— 168.

Ill«i

T I'.-

NEW BRUNSWICK.

had proved abortive ; and the severe treatment they had received from
individuals, afforded them but a meagre apology for their obstinacy
and disloyalty. The treaties that had been made with them, they had
violated ; and no confidence could any longer be placed in their pro-
mises, or even in their oaths of allegiance. Individuals, families, and
sometimes whole villages of English settlers were surprised, robbed,
scalped — murdered. To guard against the assaults of the Indians was
almost impossible. They would creep upon the ground like serpents,
or upon all-fours like quadrupeds, hiding themselves in marshes,
thickets, and trees, until the silent hour of midnight arrived, when,
like wolves, they would spring upon their prey, and, raising the war-
whoop, they put all to death, except such as were reserved for their
lingering tortures.

It was under such circumstances, and by the earnest solicitations of
the British Provincials, Admirals Boscawen and Martyn, with Governor
Lawrence, held a Council, and, after mature deliberation, resolved to
confiscate the property of the Acadians, or French Neutrals, and to
drive them from the country. Accordingly, their lands, houses, and
cattle were declared to be forfeited ; and they were only allowed to
remove the small sums of money and the little household furniture
chey had in their possession. In order to enforce the dreadful man-
date of the Council, it became necessary to decoy the unwary settlers.
The inhabitants of several districts were therefore requested to assemble
at certain places on urgent business, the nature of which was con-
cealed. At these meetings soldiers were ready to enforce the Jaw, and
the order for expulsion was proclaimed.

By this act the whole population was plunged into the greatest
dismay and distress. Some of them endeavoured to remonstrate, some
fled to the priests, and others met their fate with patient resignation.
Only a few were allowed to return to their houses to make hasty pre-
parations for their departure. So unwilling were they to leave the
lands redeemed by their industry, that when they were shipped on
board the transports prepared to receive them, the soldiers deemed it
necessary to urge them forward with the points of their bayonets.
Bitter indeed were the lamentations of these unfortunate people, and
many a tragic tale is related of these occurrences in the ballads still
chanted by their descendants.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Notwithstandiiif; the active and violent means that were employed
to prevent the escape of the Acadians, and to secure the transportation
of the whole population, only about 7,000 persons were taken and
carried away. Many fled with their wives and children into the woods,
where numbers penshed by cold and starvation ; others escaped to the
French settlements at Richibucto, Miramicbi, and other places, and
often concealed themselves in the forests until tbe violence of the
dreadful order had in some degree subsided. The lands and dikes of
these people were laid waste, their houses were set fire to, and 263 of
their dwellings were seen in flames at one time. At Cumberland many
of the inhabitants fled into the thickets, from whence they beheld the
destruction of their property with patience ; but when they saw their
chapel fired, they rushed out, killed thirty of those who were en-
gaged in the work of destruction, and then returned to their hiding-
places.*

Of the 7,000 collected, 1,000 were sent to Massachusetts, where they
became a public charge. The quota sent to Pennsylvania were landed
in a most deplorable condition, and it was proposed by the Government
there to sell them as slaves ; but the Acadians declared themselves to
be prisoners of war, and as such they were not bound to labour.
Those who were sent to Georgia, set out to return to Nova Scotia ;
but Governor Lawrence issued an order for their detention, and, having
reached New York, they were compelled to abandon their design.

After the peace between England and France that followed, the
British Government allowed them to return to their homes ; but of
7,000 that had been expelled, only about 1,300 were ever found to
avail themselves of the pardon that was offered them.f

In the year 1757, William Pitt began his brilliant ministerial career,
and preparations were made to secure to the British Crown the whole
of North America. Early in 1758, a strong fleet under Admiral

• In 1841, there was living at the mouth of the Peticodiac river, in New
Brunswick, a Monsieur Belleveau, who recollected the facts related, witli great
clearness. He was at the above time upwards of 100 years of age, and his
descendants now occupy a large village bearing his name.

t Haliburton, vol. i. pp. 173, 178, 181.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Boscawen, and un army under the command of General ^ !, jr»t, were
sent across the Atlantic. The Provincials, being aroused by the solici-
tations of the celebrated statesman, cheerfully performed their part in
the service, and, on the 2nd of June, an armament of 150 sail of men-
of-war and other vessels, with 14,000 troops, appeared before Louis-
burg. The place was then very strongly fortified, and defended by a
garrison of 3,000 men, six ships of the line, and five frigates. The
most dangerous and arduous services were entrusted to the gallant
Wolfe, who in the most intrepid manner eftected a landing under a
heavy fire of the enemy ; and, having gained an important position,
he opened newly-erected batteries with great effect upon the interior
works of the garrison. One of the French ships blew up by accident,
and the fire having been communicated to other vessels, soon destroyed
them. Admiral Boscawen entered the harbour with 600 men in boats,
captured one ship, and drove another on shore. The daring exploits
of the British, the loss of the French fleet, and the breaking down of
the walls by the artillery of the assailants, placed the garrison in a
hopeless condition, and on the 26th of July the whole of them, with
their commander, surrendered themselves prisoners of war.

Shortly after this victory, a body of troops, commanded by Lord
RoUo, was despatched to the Island St. John (Prince Edward's Island),
where upwards of 4,000 Indians laid down their arms, and promised
submission.

This successful campaign was followed by another still more brilli-
ant in its achievements against Canada. It was put under the com-
mand of the brave General Wolfe, who had distinguished himself at
Louisburg. Quebec was taken, and the country wliich had so long
been the theatre of internal wars, and the scene of much suffering and
bloodshed, fell a conquest to British intrepidity and valour. By the
treaty of peace concluded at Paris on the 10th February, 1763, France
resigned all her claims in North America to Great Britain ; and, not-
withstanding the revolt of her own subjects, in a number of her Colonies,
during the American Revolution, the Northern Provinces still remain
under her maternal care and protection.

jL.'Mt, were
y the solici-
heir part in
sail of mcn-
;fore liOuis-
fenck'd by a
gates. The

the gallant
ing under a
ivnt position,

the interior
by accident,
on destroyed
(len in boats,
ring exploits
cing down of
garrison in a
f them, with

ed by Lord
rd's Island),
nd promised

more brilli-

ler the com-

|d himself at

|had so long

suffering and

ir. By the

763, France

; and, not-

ler Colonies,

still remain

■A

CHAPTER 111.

UISI'ORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE EARLY SETTLEMENTS IN
NEW BRUNSWICK.

Ha 'INO given a general account of the history of Acadia, a brief view
may ':)e taken of the first settlements in New Brunswick. The Fort of
La Tour at the Gemsec, and other fortifications on the St. John, with
those at Chignecto and Bay Verte, are duly noticed and described by
several authors ; but the first attempts at colonisation on the northern
side of New Brunswick are scarcely mentioned in history. The atten-
tion of England and France, during their struggle to conquer American
territory, was directed to the principal ports along the Atlantic coast,
while the first settlements on the shores of the Bale des Chaleurs do
not appear to have been recognised by either country, and therefore
the history of those'settlements is derived more from correct tradition
than from any written records on the subject.

La Bale des Chaleurs, or Bay of Heats, was discovered by Cartier in
1534 ; but no attempt was made to colonise the northern part of New
France until 1638 or 1639, when Mons. Jean- Jacques Enaud emi-
grated thither, and occupied a part of the country in the manner already
described.

Some time in the year 1672 or 1673, and six years after the Treaty
of Breda, a number of French families emigrated from St. Maloes in
France to the River Miramichi, and opened a settlement at Bale des
Vents. About this time small villages began to spring up at Bay
Verte, Nequaak, Canadian Point, and other places.

A town called Petite Rochelle,with fortifications, was also commenced
near the mouth of the Restigouche. At Beaubair's Point on the Mira-
michi, there was a town of 200 houses and a chapel. On Beaubair's
Island, since owned by Messrs. Fraser, there was a battery that com-

NEW BllUNSWICK.

maiuled the river, and nt Frcncli Fort Cove the fortifications mounted
sixteen guns. At Fawcett's Point the French had a HJiip-yard, an
armoury, and valuable stores.*

The Island and Point still bear the name of Mons. Pierre Beaubair,
who was Governor or Superintendent of the Colony. In the vicinity
of these several places there are evidences of fonncr cultivation, although
the inhabitants were chiefly engaged in hunting and fishing. Their
exports were salmon, furs, moose-skins, &c., and their trade was exten-
sive. In 1757, the English cruizers on the coast greatly interrupted
their commerce. In this season also their crops failed, and in the suc-
ceeding winter they were reduced to a state of starvation.

In this calamity, they were visited by a dreadful disease. The fatal
malady was supposed to have been introduced in a vessel wrecked
near the mouth of Bale des Vents River. The remainsof this vessel are
still to be seen. The sufferings of these people were still farther
increased by the loss of two transports despatched from France with
supplies for their relief. Those vessels were taken by the British fleet,
which, with the army under General Amherst, captured Louisburg.
By the famine and the pestilence eight hundred of the inhabitants
died, and the greater number were buried at Beaubair's Point. From
the wearing away of the banks of the river, the *graves of many of
those unfortunate people have been opened; and in 1842 the bones
of the early French emigrants were seen protruding from the soil,
where at present a highway descends to the ferry crossing the north-
west branch of the river.

Among the first victims to the fatal disease, was Monsieur Beaubair
himself. Most of the habitans who survived fled to Bay Chaleurs,
Si. John s Island, and Memnamcook on the Peticodiac. Many of the
Indians also perished. The capture of Louisburg by the British pro-
duced a panic among the French and Indians, so that almost every
village and wigwam was deserted. Only a few persons remained at
French Fort Cove, Canadian Point, and Nequaak, which were the
principal rallying points for the savages.

• Cooney's History of the Northern Part of New Brunswick and District of
Ga8p6, pp. 31, 32,

NEW BRUNSWICK.

lis mounted
ip-yard, an

V BciUibair,
the vicinity
Ml, altlu)U{^h
ing. Their
« was exton-
interrupted
I in the suc-

. The fatal
ssel wrecked
liis vessel are
still farther
France with
British fleet,
[ Louisburg.
8 inhabitants
oint. From
of many of
2 the bones
om the soil,
the north-

eur Beaubair
ay Chaleurs,
VI any of the
British pro-
most every
remained at
h were the

rid District of

After the conquest of Quebec, u vessel having on board the remains
of General Wolfe was driven by a gale of wind into Miramichi River.
The captain sent a boat and six men on shore to procure water. The
boat landed at Henderson's Cove, and while the men were employed,
they were surprised by a party of armed Indians and soldiers from the
fort, and inhumanly massacred upon the spot. The captain of the
vessel, having ascertained through the medium of the pilot that this
murderous act had been committed, resolved to retaliate. He first
silenced the battery at the Cove, and then destroyed the settlement at
Canadian Point, where, it is said, he killed the miserable wretches
that had escaped the famine and the pestilence. In proceeding to sea,
he landed at Nequaak, and set fire to a large chapel. From this cir-
cumstance the se^.tlement has ever since been called Burnt Church.

In 1 760, the French Government made an attempt to regain Quebec,
and to strengthen their forces in Canada. Twenty-two storc-slups,
under a strong convoy, were sent from France, and reached the Gulf
of St. Lawrence, where information was received that a British squadron
had preceded them up the river. Upon the receipt of this intelligence,
the commander of the French fleet took shelter in the Bay Chaleurs,
where he was followed by Captain Byron, commanding-oflicer of the
British ships at Louisburg. The British squadron consisted of the
Fame, Dorsetshire, Achilles, Scarborough, and Repulse. In proceed-
ing up Gaspe Bay, the French ship La Catherine was captured, and
another vessel was taken near Carraquettc. The French comman-
der, finding that he was pursued, took shelter in the Restigouchc, at
the town of Petite Rochelle, where there were two batteries. Cap-
tain Byron with much difiiculty worked his ships up the river ; and he
soon silenced the forts on the shore, and brought the enemy to a
general engagement. The French fought bravely, until Monsieur
Bourdo, the captain of one of the ships, was killed, and a powder-
vessel blew up.* Captain Byron captured and destroyed the whole

• During this engagement, two English sailors who were prisoners in one of
the French ships jumped overboard and swam to a British ship, unhurt by the
musket-balls discharged at them. They immediately went to the guns of their
countrymen, and, as might be expected, fought bravely.

1:1 H

"'ir

iiUl

•.1

NEW BRUNSWICK.

fleet, which, benides transports, included the Marchault, of 32 guns ;
Esperance, 30 guns ; Bienfaisant, 22 guns ; Marquis de Malose, 18
guns ; and se\ :ral sail of small privateers. He then destroycl all the
fortifications, and burned the town of Petite Rochelle, which contained
200 houses. The remains of two French vessels may still be seen at
low-water near Mission Point, where several pieces of cannon are par-
tially buried in the sand.

Near one of the ancient batteries, a gun was recovered a few years
ago by Mr. Robert Ferguson. It is a long French 1 8-pounder, and is
now mounted near the residence of that gentleman. At the site of
Petite Rochelle, muskets, swords, bomb-shells, with a variety of other
warlike instruments, have bet n found ; and among the ruins of the
town, china, silver forks and spoons, and other articles of luxury, have
been discovered. The walls, cellars, and foundations of houses may
still be traced at the site of Petite Rochelle, which, like many other towns
and populous villages in America, was sacrificed to secure the country
to the British Crown.

Great Britain had now obtained by conquest the whole of North
America, excepting only a small Colony on the south side of the Mis-
sissippi. The Acadians and Indians therefore gave up all hopes of
holding Nova Scotia as the subjects of France, and therefore again
tendered their submission.

The few French settlers that remained at Miramichi, Richibucto,
Shediac, Peticodiac, and other places, appeared before Colonel Frye at
Cumberland, and prom''sed faithful allegiance to the British Govern-
ment. The Rev. Mr. Manack, a Roman Catholic missionary, with a
number of the principal inhabitants and four Indian chiefs, signed a
formal declaration and \Tomise of loyalty to the King. They also
bound themselves, with thi.se they were sent to represent, to appear at
Bay Verte in the succeedinj.' spring, to abide by such decision as
might be made by the Governor in their case.

Dunng the winter, eight more Indian chiefs surrendered themselves ;
and the whole Micmac tribe, which then amounted to 6,000 souls,
abandoned the cause of France, and became dependent upon the Eng-
lish. The following are the names of the Chiefs that signed the obli-
gation of allegiance, and their places of abode : — Louis Francis, Chief

NEW BRUNSWICK.

of Miramichi ; Dennis Winemowet, of Taboqunkik ; Etienne Abchabo,
of Poboomoosh ; Claud Atanage, of Gediaak ; Paul Lawrence, of La
Have ; Joseph Algemoure, of Chignecto, or Cumberland ; John Newit,
of Pictou ; Baptiste Lamourne, of St. John's Island ; Rene Lamoume,
of Nalkitgoniash ; Jeannot Piquadauduet, of Minas; Augustin Michael,
of Richibucto ; Bartlemy Annqualet, of Kishpugowitk.*

The above Chiefs were sent to Halifax, and on the 1st of July, 1761,
Joseph Argimault (or, as he was called by the Indians, Argimooch)
held a great talk with Governor Lawrence. The hatchet was formally
buried, the calumet was smoked, and all the Chiefs acknowledged King
George to be the'r father. The ceremony was conducted with great
military display. The officers of the several departments were present,
and the inhabitants of the town mixed with the untamed savages of the
woods ; the several bands played the national anthem ; the garrison and
men-of-war fired royal salutes ; and King George was proclaimed amidst
loud acclamations of peace and harmony.

The Indians were allowed to retain their possessions, and to exercise
their own laws. Thus was the spell that bound these people to the
French broken, and the whole continent was subdued by the wisdom
of British policy and the power of British arms.

Immediately after the above event, settlers from Great Britain and
the neighbouring Colonies began to flow into the Province. In 1764,
Mr. William Davidson emigrated from the North of Scotland to Mira-
michi, and he is said to have been the first British settler that landed
at that place. At the time of hib arrival, the houses of the French had
been abandoned and destroyed, and the Indians were lords of the soil.
In the following year, Mr. Davidson obtained a grant of land from the
Government of 100,000 acres, situated on the south-west branch of the
Miramichi River. He was afterwards joined by a Mr. Cort, from Aber-
deen. These two persons caught from 1,400 to 1,800 tierces of salmon
yearly, and soon commenced a profitable trade. They lived upon good
terms with the aborigines, until the common cement of the American

lit''

* Taboqunkik is the original name of Taboointac, now called Tabosintac.
Poboomoosh is now called Pugmouclie, and Gediak alhides to Shediac. Nal-
kitgoniash means, Antigonisb ; nnd Kishpugowitk, Kishoubuguaak.

:''

; PIP
I, lit"'

:i 'l''i

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Revolution, when the savages, who had previously been restrained by
their own treaty of peace made at Halifax, and the exertions of the
Missionaries, now displayed their flags, sounded the whoop and yell
of war, and bade defiance to the pale faces of the east. They burned
two houses, destroyed the cattle, and robbed Mr. Cort's store of 700
moose-skins. They declared therpselves in favour of the American
rebels, and opened a correspondence with the Revolutionists. Under
these distressing circumstances, Davidson and the few persons belonging
to his establishment applied to the Government at Halifax for relief;
but up to the summer of 1777 no aid was obtained.

The Indians were holding a Grand Council at Bartibog Island, and
had resolved upon the death of every individual belonging to the infant
settlement. While the Council was sitting, and Davidson and his asso-
ciates were making preparations to escape, the Viper sloop-of-war,
commanded by Captain Harvey, appeared in the Bay. She had cap-
tured the American privateer Lafayette, and in order to decoy the
savages, she was sent up the river under American colours. But the
Indians were too chary to be deceived by this stratagem, and, by as-
suming the character of pirates, they resolved to make a prize of the
vessel. Upwards of thirty of them were allowed to come on board.
After a desperate struggle, they were overpowered ; and such as were
not killed in the affray were put in irons. Among these desperadoes
was one named Pierre Martin, whose strength and savage courage were
truly characteristic of his tribe. Two marines were unable to bind
him, and he nearly strangled two others with whom he was engaged.
After he had received several severe wounds, he tore a bayonet from
the hands of a sailor, and missing his thrust at one of his opponents, he
drove the weapon through one of the stancheons of the vessel. Covered
with wounds, the savage at last fell, as was supposed to rise no more ;
but even in his dying moments, when his flesh was quivering under
deep sabre-cuts, and his body was bathed in blood, he sprang to his
feet, and fastened himself upon the throat of one of his companions,
upbraiding him with cowardice. He had almost strangled th«. trem-
bling Indian, when he was despatched by one of the crew. The
wretches thus taken were sent to Quebec, and nine of them were after-
wards put on board a vessel bound to Halifax. On her passage the

NE;W BRUNSWICK.

strained by
tions of the
jp and yell
'hey bumed
store of 700
le American
sts. Under
ns belonging
X for relief ;

Island, and
to the infant
and his asso-
sloop-of-war,
She had cap-
to decoy the
rs. But the
, and, by as-
X prize of the
ne on board,
such as were
desperadoes
courage were
able to bind
was engagscl.
bayonet from
)pponents, he
;el. Covered
ise no more ;
vering under
irang to his
companions,
d the trem-
crew. The
were after-
passage the

i
-I

vessel engaged an American privateer. Etienne Bamaly, one of the
prisoners, requested leave to fight for King George. Permission was
given him — his irons were removed, a musket put in his hands, and
he killed at two different times the helmsman of the American cruizer.
The English gained the victory ; and when the prize was brought to
Halifax, Bamaly was liberated on account of his bravery.* Of sixteen
Indians carried away, only six ever returned to Miramichi : among
these were two villains called Knives and Tax, who afterwards mur-
dered two men and a boy.f

On another occasion, the English inhabitants of Miramichi would
have been destroyed by the Indians, except for the timely arrival of
Monsieur Cassanette, a Roman Catholic priest, who checked them in
their diabolical determination. The Julian family also frequently
employed themselves in restraining their tribe from acts of violence. ;{;

Some time after the taking of Quebec, a Mr. Walker, from Scotland,
opened a settlement at Alston Point, on the north side of Bathurst
Harbour. Among the persons who accompanied Mr. Walker, was
John Young, an Englishman, who a few years ago was still alive, and
was then nearly 100 years old. The trade of the settlement consisted
of fish, furs, moose-skins, and the hides, oil, and tusks of walruses.
This settlement also suffered much from the outrages of the Indians,
and during several years the inhabitants kept themselves in readiness
for an attack.

After the American Revolution had commenced, several privateers
entered the Bay, and took and destroyed property to the amoun*- of
£10,000. Two of these privateers were afterwards sunk off Roc
Perce by two English gun-brigs, the Wolf and the Diligence.

Notwithstanding the French and Acadians had from time to time
fallen into different hands, and had been more than once driven from
their possessions by the British, to whom they had been 'unfaithful,
there were always a few families who remained in almost every district.

* Cooney, p. 46.

t The author has a letter in his possession from Michael Franklin to James
White, Esq. corroborating the statement of this affair.

X The descendants of the old Julian family are still residing atBmntChmxh,
or Nequaak.

/! i

* .

i'',!

NEW BRUNSWICK.

When troubles arose, they fled into the forests, and lived with the
natives ; and in times of peace they returned to their lands, and re-
sumed their occupations. Many of those also who had escaped to
other places during war, when favourable opportunities occurred,
returned to the places they had cleared and cultivated.

As early as 1670 there were French settlemcn ;s on every side of
Bathurst Harbour, at Grande Ance, and Caraqueile. In the above
year Mr. Charles Doucette established himself on Lii.tle River ; and it
was observed by him and other respectable persons ^f his day, that
many of the French and Acadian settlers v/ere then in very com-
fortable circumstances.

One of the oldest settlements in the County of Gloucester is ai
Caraquette. Two brothers by the name of La Roc, from Lunaire,
and two other individuals, named Burton and St. John, natives of
Bretagne, began a settlement at that place in 1768. The present
Acadian inhabitants of New Brunswick are chiefly descendants of
people from Cape Breton, Prince Edward's Island, Cumberland,
Minas, and other parts of Nova Scotia.

In 1760, James Simonds, Esq. visited the River St. John, with the
intention of establishing a fishery at that place ; but the hostility of
the Indians and Acadians compelled him to return to New England.
In 1764 he was joined by Mr. James White and Captain Francis Pea-
body,* who, ^^'ith a small party of fishermen, arrived at the site of the
present city of St. John on the 16th April. At this time the whole
surface of the country was covered by a dense forest, and scarcely a
tree had been felled where the city now stands. Shad, salmon,
alewives, and other kinds of fish were then abundant ; and they soon
commenced a trade in fish, furs, and moose-skins.

The first English settlement made on the St. John was at Mauger-
ville. In" 1766 a number of families! in Massachusetts obtained from
the Government a grant of a township on the St. John, and imme-
diately removed to the above place, now known as the County of Sun-

• Mr. Simonds was the father of the present Honourable Charles Simonds.
Mr. White was an Ensign in a regiment of foot, and the father of the present
James White, Esq., High Sheriff of the City and County of St. John. Captain
Peabody afterwards settled at Maugerville, where he left a numerous race
of descendants.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

tfl

ed with the
inds, and re-
L escaped to
3S occurred,

every side of
;n the above
River ; and it
[lis day, that
n very com-

mcester is at
Prom Lunaire,
n, natives of

The present
escendants of

Cumberland,

ohn, with the
e hostility of
New England.
I Francis Pea-
the site of the
ime the whole
and scarcely a
j>had, salmon,
and they soon

Is at Mauger-

lobtained from

^n, and imme-

)unty of Sun-

larles Simonds.

of the present
I John. Captain

numeroua race

bury. At different times during the American Revolutionary War,
they were reinforced by families from New England. The first com-
mission of the peace^for this new settlement is dated 11th August,
1766, and the Courts of Common Pleas were held in Sunbury until
1783, when Fredericton was made the seat of Government.* Up to
this period the above county included the whole of the country now
known as New Brunswick.

The first inhabitants erected a fort at Oromucto. The sufferings and
hardships endured^by these people, from the time of their first landing
up to the close of the Revolutionary War, can scarcely be conceived by
persons accustomed to civilised life. For many years they were con-
stantly exposed to the depredations of the Indians, and their lives were
often in jeopardy. It was not until after many years of hard toil and
severe suffering had passed, that they were able to live in any degree
of peace and comfort. In 1783 they amounted to 800 souls.

After the breaking out of the American Rebellion, the Revolutionists
pillaged every unfortified village in Nova Scotia. A party of rebels
from Machias burned Fort Frederick at the mouth of the River St.
John, and on the site of the present town of Carlton. Simonds and
White had erected small houses at the foot of the eminence now called
Fort Howe Hill : at these houses and their inmates the rebels wantonly
discharged a number of cannon-shot, having previously robbed the
place of every valuable article they could discover.

Next season they induced the Indians to join them ; and the Chiefs
of the tribes on the St. John entered into a special contract at Bos-
ton to aid their cause, and destroy the British. No less than six
hundred warriors assembled near the Gemsec, with hostile intentions.
The inhabitants of Maugerville being, therefore, placed in a most
perilous condition, took refuge in their little fort at Oromucto. The
few families at St. John, who were joined by Mr. William Hazen about
this time, were also in imminent danger of being murdered. In this
state of things, Mr. Michael Franklin was' despatched from Halifax to
the River St. John, and was successful in obtaining the treaty the
Indian Chiefs had signed at Boston, and in renewing the articles of

'i1

\i\

* Notitia of New Brunswick, p. 107.

L 2

5!^

NEW BRUNSWICK.

1.1 iili

peace they Imd entered into with the British. Messrs. White and
Hazen, who were also engaged in the work of reconciliation, were
captured by the savages, and had nearly perished before they were
liberated. So faithless were the Indians, that they assembled again in
1779 ; and they were not appeased until they had received promises of
large presents.* This was the last attempt of an Indian war.

• The following original letter and invoice were presented to the author by
James White, Esq. High Sherift'of St. John : —

" To the Chief Captains and Principal Indians of the River St. John.

" Brethren, — I am much concerned I cannot see you, as I intended, on the
25th of this month ; but Major Studholm will meet you for me, who will tell
you the sentiments of my heart.

" Brethren, — King George wants masts for his ships, and has employed
people to jirovide them on the River St. John, depending on you to protect the
workmen in cutting them and conveying them to Fort Howe.

" Brethren, — The Governor sends you some presents which Major Studholm
will deliver you. They are intended to bind fast your promise, that you will
protect the mast-cutters.

" Brethren, — King George, my gracious' master, has sent me a large
quantity of presents for you; they are on the water on their way to Halifax.
When they arrive, I shall deliver them to you in person.

" These presents the King gives you for your delivering up to me the treaty
you had entered into with the Council of Boston.

" I salute you, and am your affectionate Brother,

(Signed) "Michael Franklin."

•' Windsor, 18th May, 1780."

"Invoice of sundry Articles shipped at Windsor the 4th instant, on the
schooner Mcnaquasha, Peter Uousett master, for Fort Howe, by order of Sir
Richard Hughs, Commissioner of His Majesty's Navy, to be given as presents
to the Indians of the Rive; St. John and its neighbourhood, by Major Stiul-
holm, in such manner and proportions as he shall thnik proper, to induce the
said Indians to protect the workmen and others in providing masts for
the King's Navy, viz. : —

" 50 pair blankets.
40 shirts.
1 piece blue stroud.
6| yds. blue and soarlet cloth.
100 rings.
300 flints.
54 yds. ribbon.

\rhite and
;ion, were
they were
d again in
»romises of

e author hy

t. John,
nded, on the
who will tell

as employed
CO protect the

ijor Studholm
that you will

me a large
ly to Hahfax.

me the treaty

ther,

RAN KLIN."

[stant, on the
order of Sir
|en as presents
Major Stud-
to induce the
[ng masts for

NEW BRUNSWICK.

During the above period, the Americans had spread disaffection in
Nova Scotia ; and even in the infant state of the settlements of the
River St. John, an individual was found to guide the rebellious mal-
contents of the revolted Colonies through the woods, in order to take
Fort Cumberland. This expedition failed,* and a scrupulously-
humane Government has not remembered the fact against the ring-
leader, nor his descendants.

The people of Truro, Onslow, and Londonderry, in Novia Scotia, all
except five, refused to take the oath of allegiance, and therefore
their deputies were excluded from the House of Assembly. In
King's County, Nova Scotia, a liberty-pole was cut and made ready
tx) be hoisted, when the arrival of a detachment of the King's Orange
Rangers put an end to all disaffected movements. With the increase of
population there has been an increase of loyalty, although there are
many at the present day enjoying the favours of the Government who
would not venture to make any appeal to the loyalty of their fore-
fathers.

On the 21st January, 1783, a treaty of peace was signed between
Great Britain, France, and Spain. The war being thus ended, several

2J cwt. shot,

3 pieces blue stroud.

.3 pieces white kersey.

CO nulled caps.

40 worsted do.

50 castor hats.

21 cwt. shot.
100 yds. embost serge.
1 barrel gunpowder.
100 hoes.
1 cask of wine sent by Mr. Franklin for the squaws, and such men as
do not drink rum.

(Signed) " Michael Franklin."

"Windsor, 18th May, 1780."

* One of the party referred to here stole quietly in a dark night up to the
walls of the fort, and, being upon all-fours, the British sentinel espied him, and
mistook him for a bear. He fired and killed the spy, who was brought in
dead next morning. The assailants took to their heels when they heard th«
report of the sentinel's gun.

:,!

NEW BRUNSWICK.

thousands of disbanded troops were removed from New England to
New Brunswick. A number of Acadians who had established them-
selves at Fredericton were ordered to remove, for the purpose of ac-
commodating a body of discharged soldiers. Those poor people, who
had long been the sport of fortune, were finally settled at Madawasca,
where their descendants now occupy an extensive and tolerably well-
cultivated district.

It had been supposed that tb : ?afli»Tig, who had been driven from
Fredericton, had at last found res a ^place ; but in the recent
settlement of the Boundary dispute, oue pa;: </ Madawasca District has
been assigned to Great Britain, and the other to the United States ;
and the divisional line has placed the same people under two diflferent
Governments.

In the above year great numbers of loyalists and refugees also
removed to the Province, and the general improvement of the country
commenced with extraordinary vigour. The Government offered every
protection and assistance to those who had left their native homes,
and sacrificed in many instances the ties of consanguinity and aftection
to their King and the British Constitution.

Each family received a certain quantity of land ; and provisions were
supplied to the destitute, until by their labour they should be able to
maintain themselves.

In 1784, New Brunswick was separated from Nova Scotia, and
made a distinct Government. General Carlton was appointed Go-
vernor on the 16th of August of the same year, and during his
administration he made every effort to improve the state of the country.
The Government has since been administered by a number of persons
styled Lieutenant-Governors, or in their absence or demise by the
»enior member of the Executive Council for the time being.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

ngland to

(

ed them-

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jple, who

adawasca ,

ibly well-

riven from

•
f4e

the recent
>istrict has

d States ;

different
ugees also

he country

fered every

ive homes,

id affection

isions were

be able to

1 '

Icotia, and

■1

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during his

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ise by the

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■

NEW BRUNSWICK.

In the year 1809 a duty was laid on Baltic timber, while that of the
Colonies was left free. From this circumstance the trade of the
Province rapidly increased ; and although the commerce of New Bruns-
wick has been occasionally checked by over-trading and rash specula-
tions, the country is in a prosperous condition.

For the gifts made to the Loyalists, Great Britain has been amply
compensated in the commerce of the country, and the loyalty of its
inhabitants ; and the hardships and suffering endured by the faithful
subjects of the Crown have been rewarded with almost universal
prosperity.

1,*^

CHAPTER IV.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

New Brunswick lies between 45° 5" and 48° 20" of North latitude,
and between 63'' 50" and 08" of West longitude. It extends nearly
north and south, and forms an irregular square between Nova Scotia
and Canada. It is bounded on tlu> north by the Bay Chaleurs and the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, which separate it from Gaspe west by the
Rcstlgouche River, or boundary of Canada. On the east it also extends
to the Gulf, or Northumberland Straits. A narrow peninsula joins it
to Nova Scotia on the south-east, and it is separated from that Pro-
vince on the south by the Bay of Fundy. On the west it meets the
State of Maine. It contains about 26,000 square miles, or 16,500,000
acres: 6,000,000 of acres have been granted ; 10,500,000 remain not
granted ; and of that quantity about 9,000,000 of acres are fit for
cultivation.

Disputed Territory.

It was not until after the peace between Great Britain and the
United States had been ratified in 1815, that the Americans began to
occupy a tract of country situated between the State of Maine and
New Brunswick, since known as the Disputed Territory. As early as
1783 the British had settled a party of Acadians at Madawasca, and
they had exercised jurisdiction over the country from its first discovery,
except at those periods when it was held by the French as forming a
part of ancient Acadia, or Nova Scotia.

The vague terms employed in the treaties between the two Govern-
ments respecting the north-western boundary of the Province began
to attract the attention of some of the inhabitants of the Northern
States. At first a kind of undefined title was set up to certain lands

'> i

NEW imUNSWICK.

■outhward of the St. John, and finally their claim was extended north-
ward to the high lands that overlook the St. Lawrence. That the
framors of the Treaty of 1783, and the treaty itaelf, never contemplated
such a claim, is certain ; and it was only by the imperfect phraseology
of the article establishing the boundaries, that the Americans hoped to
be successful in extending their north-eastern frontier. T le treaty
declares that the north-west boundary of Nova Scotia, which then
included New Brunswick, shall be " formed by a line drawn duo
north from the source of the St. Croix to the high lands which divide
those rivers that empty themselves into the River St. Lawrence from
those which fall into the Atlantic Ocean, to the north-westernmost
head of Connecticut River." The words which form a port of the
treaty were written without any knowledge of the country they were
intended to dispose of. Instead of one chain of high lands from which
the waters fall in opposite directions into the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf
of St. Lawrence, there are two, and between them is situated the territory
that was in dispute. The British insisted upon making one of those
chains the line, and the Americans the other ; and thus a controversy
arose that had nearly involved the two nations in a war. All the
rivers on the south side of the British line do fall into the Atlantic
Ocean ; but on the northern side of that line they flow into the St.
John, and not into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The line claimed by
the Americans was also at variance with the treaty ; for from one of its
sides all the waters fall into the St. Lawrence, and from the other they
decend into the Restigouchc, opening into the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
and into the St. John, opening into the Bay of Fundy.

But the treaty contemplated "reciprocal advantages" and "neutral
convenience" upon "principles of liberal equality and reciprocity."
With such principles the territory in dispute would be assigned to the
British ; and the whole history of the country, from its earliest date to
the present time, clearly gives Great Britain a just title to all the lands
she has now given away to the American States.

Even a brief review of the Reports and other works that have been
written on the subject would occupy a volume. The Messages of the
Governors of Maine had teemed with invective against the British, for
holding what they had always possessed ; and the Congress of the

NEW BRUNSWICK.

United States was yearly pressed with this vexatious question. The
intemponite portion of the American press also found in the ** disputed
territory" an ample field for animadversion, until the agitation required
to be ajjpeased by the final adjustment of the line between the two
Powers. Although an able work was written on the subject by a
gentleman at St. John, and the press of the British Colonies occa-
sionally touched upon the dispute, the Legislature of New Brunswick
appeared to view the matter with indifference, until they Ibund it
necessary to place a sum of money at the disposal of the Government,
to prevent the farther encroachments of the poeple of Maine, and to
prepare for a threatened Border war.

A Commission was appointed to establish the line, under Jay's
Treaty, in 1794. The Commissioners agreed in regard to the identity
of the St. Croix, and established the boundary along that river and
the Cheputnaticook to its source, and thence to Mars Hill. From
that point the American Commissioners insisted upon extending the
due-north line to the River Metis, falling into the St. Lawrence. The
British declared Mars Hill to ])e the north-west angle of Nova Scotia,
and at that point the due-north line should have terminated. From
Mars Hill a continuous chain of mountains and hills separates the
sources of the Penobscot, Kenebec, and Androscoggin Rivers, which
fall into the Atlanfic, from the branches of the St. John, falling into
the Bay of Fundy, and the Chaudiere, and other streams, descending
into the St. Lawrence.

Whatever may be the language of the treaty, these are evidently the
high lands to which it alludes as being the boundary. From this dis-
agreement the Commissioners abandoned the work, and the question
remained unsettled.

By the Treaty of Ghent of 18 ' 5, a provision was made for the final
settlement of the question ; and the whole matter in dispute was re-
ferred to the King of the Nether! nds, who was chosen an arbitrator
between the two Powers, After hearing the arguments, and examining
the reports on both sides, his Majesty took a common course in such
oases, and, to use an American expression, " split the difference "
between the contending parties.

The line of the award t*xtended from the source of the St. Croix

NEW BRUNSWICK.

due north to the St. John, thence along the middle of the " Thalweg"
(deepest channel of that river) to the St. Francis, and thence along
certain lines marked on maps to the north-westernmost source of Con-
necticut River.*

Notwithstanding the astringent clauses of the Treaty of Ghent to
make the decision of the King of the Netherlands binding and con-
clusive, it w \s not agreed to by the American Go ernment, and the
whole mattvjr ,>eing <'.rown open, soon became a source of strife and
contention on the borders, and endangered the peace of the two
nations.

In the mean time, the Government of the State of Maine spared no
pains or expense in obtaining an accurate knowledge of the country.
Topographical and geological surveys of the '* disputed territory" were
authorised, and the information gained by her own people afterwards
afforded the United States a great advantage in the final settlement of
the question.

In July 1839, Lieu tentant- Colonel Mudge, of the Royal Engineers,
and Mr. Featherstonhaugh, were appointed Commissioners to examine
and report upon the boundary. The professional celebrity of the former
gentleman would attach great weight to the Report made afterwards ;
but the time allowed to survey an extensive wilderness region was far
too short for him to perform the task, and the work appears to have
been assumed by his colleague, who spent a few weeks near the
territory in dispute, and then compiled the Report.

Although this ex-parte survey cost the Government a large sum of
money, it v/as not actended with any good results. Some of the state-
ments in the Report were found to be incorrect ; the charge made against
the former Commissioners was unfair, and but few of the facts stated
were collected by persons employed in the survey. The Americans,
ever ready to avail themselves of a favourable circumstance, made the
Report a subject of severe criticism, and an instrument to weaken
the British claim.

While Great Britain was expending large sums of money in negotia-
tions, commissions, surveys, explorations, &c., the people of the United

* See Map.

NEW BRUNSWICK,

"Thalweg"
hence along
irce of Con-

of Ghent to
g and con-
ent, and the
jf strife and
of the two

16 spared no
the country,
ritory" were
! afterwards
lettlement of

1 Engineers,
to examine
>f the former
afterwards ;
;ion was far
ars to have
:s near the

arge sum of

of the state-

nade against

facts stated

Americans,

made the

to weaken

in negotia-
the United

States were taking possession of the territory in dispute. They crossed
the high lands separating the waters that flow into the St. John from
those that flow through the American territory into the Atlantic, and
pitched their tents upon the Aroostook, where they erected Fort Fair-
field. They also built another fort a few miles above Madawasca ;
they ganted the lands, made roads, and opened settlements in a tract
of country which justly belo.iged to Great Britain.

Ir 1842 a Border war was threatened, and Lord Ashburton was
despatched to America with power to settle the Boundary Line. After
much negotiation, the matter was amicably disposed of, but with a great
sacrifice on the part of Great Britain. The line established by the
Ashburton Treaty does not differ materially from that awarded by the
King of the Netherlands ;* but while it has secured to England a
commurication between New Brunswick and Canada, it has yielded to
the Americans a vast tract of excellent land and timber, and also the
navigation of the St. John, along which munitions of war may be sent
by the Republic into the very heart of a British Province previous to
the outbreak of hostilities.

The President of the United States, in his Message to Congress in
1845, has said in reference to the Oregon question, and the navigation
of the Columbia River, that " the right of any foreign power to the free
navigation of any of our rivers through the heart of the country
was one " he "was unwilling to concede." If such are the views of
the President and the people of the United States in regard to a river
to which they have no claim, how must Lord Ashburton blush when
he considers that he gave away the navigation of the St. John to that
same power, and to those who had never claimed it ! The following
facts are derived from indisputable authority.

" The sentiments advanced by the senators during the secret dis-
cussion in the United States Senate, in August 1842, on the question

• The territory in dispute between the two Powers contained 12,029 square
miles, or 7,697,280 square acres : of these by the Ashburton Treaty the United
States obtain 7,015 square miles, equal to 4,489,600 acres, and England 5,012
square miles, or 3,207,680 acres. By the line of tb.e King of the Netherlands,
the United States would have had 7,908 square miles (5,061,120 acres), and
England 4,119 square miles (2,030,160 acres).— Vide Map.

r,--*^

NEW BRUNSWICK.

of ratifying the Ashburton Treaty for the settlement of the Boundary
Lint dispute, have recently been made public, with some of the induce-
ments which led to the approval of the Senate. Among these, a most
important document was brought forward by Mr. Rives, Chairman of
the Committee on Foreign Relations, who stated, that iL was due to
the distinguished gentleman (Mr. Jared Sparks, of Bosioi.,) by whom
the document referred to was discovered in the Archives of France,
while pursuing his laborious and intelligent researches connected with
the history of the United States, that the account of it should be given
in his own words, as contained in a i immunication addressed by him
to the Department of S- ate. The following is a copy of the communi-
cation : —

" * While pursuing my researches among the voluminous papers

relating to the American Revolution in the Archives des Ajfaires Etran-

g^res in Paris, I found in one of the bound volumes an original letter

from Dr. Franklin to Count de Vergennes, of which the following is an

exact transcript : —

" ' Passy, December G, 1782.

" ' Sir, — I have the honor of returning herewith the map your Excellency
sent me yesterday. I have marked with a strong red line, according to your
desire, the limits of the United States, as settled in the preliminaries between
the British and American Plenipotentiaries.

'* ' With great respect, 1 am, &c.

" ' B. Franklin.

" ' This letter was written six days aficr the preliminaries were
signed ; and if we could procure the identical map mentioned by
Franklin, it would seem to afford conclusive evidence as to the meaning
affixed by the Commissioners to the language of the treaty on the
subject of the boundaries. You may well suppose that I lost no time
in making inquiry for the map, not doubting that it would confirm all
my previous opinions respecting the validity of our claim. In the
geographical department of the Archives are sixty thousand maps and
charts — but so well arranged with catalogues and indexes, that any one
of them may be easily . und. After a little research in the American
division, with the aid of the keeper, I came upon a map of North Ame-
rica, :v D'Anville, dated 1746, in size about eighteen inches square,

he Boundary
)f the induce-
these, a most.
Chairman of
I was due to
1.,) by whom
!s of France,
mnected with
)uhl be given
issed by him
he communi-

mous papers
faires Etran-
riginal letter
Hewing is an

iber G, 1782.
ur Excellency
brding to your
aries between

Franklin.

inaries were
entioned by
tlie meaning
e.ty on the
lost no time
I confirm all
im. In the
id maps and
hat any one
le American
North Ame-
les square,

■'-J

NEW BRUNSWICK.

on which was drawn a strong red line through the entire boundary of
the United States, answering precisely to Franklin's description. The
line is bold and distinct in every part, made with red ink, and appa-
rently drawn with a camel-hair pencil, or a pen with a blunt point.
There is no other colouring on any part of the map.

" ' Imagine my surprise on discovering that this line runs wholly
south of the St. John, and between the head waters of that river and
those of the Penobscot and Kennebec. In short, it is exactly the line
now contended for by Great Britain, except that it concedes more than
is claimed. The north line, after departing from the source of the
St. Croix, instead of proceeding to Mars Hill, stops far short of that
point, and turns off to the west, so as to leave on the British side all
the streams which flow into the St. John between the source of the
St. Croix and Mars Hill. It is evident that the line from the St. Croix
to the Canadian high land is intended to exclude all the waters running
into the St. John.

" • There is no positive proof that this map is actually the one
marked by Franklin ,; yet, upon any other supposition, it would be
difficult to explain the circumstances of its agreeing so perfectly with
its description, and of its being preserved in the place where it would
naturally be deposited by the Count de Vergennes. I also found an-
other m.ap in the Archives, on which the same boundary was traced in
a dotted red line with a pen, apparently coloured from the other.

•' I enclose herewith a map of Maine, on which I have drawn a strong
black line, corresponding with the red one above mentioned.

" ' Jared Sparks.'

" Not only do this document and the map referred to go directly to
prove that the original line claimed by the British was the line under-
stood by the Plenipotentiaries of both countries when the treaty of
peace was concluded, but this undeniable fact is corroborated by proof
from the archives of an American Statesman. — Mr. Rives said —

" ' A map has been vauntingly paraded here, from Mr. Jefferson's
collection, in the zeal of opposition, (without taking time to see what it
was,) to confront and invalidate the map found by Mr. Sparks in the
Foreign Office at Paris ; but the moment it is examined, it is found to

h;8 : !

N*^W BRUNSWICK.

conta-p; 'ry '.he most precise and remarkable correspondence, in every
fectDce, the map communicated by Mr. Sparks! The Senator who
produced it could see nothing but the microscopic dotted line running
off in a north-easterly direction ; but the moment other eyes were
applied to it, there was found, in bold relief, a strong red line, indicating
the limits of the United States according to the treaty of peace, and
coinciding, minutely and exactly, with the boundary traced on the map
of Mr. Sparks. That this red line, and not the hardly-visible dotted
line, was intended to represent the limits of the United States, accord-
ing to the treaty of peace, is conclusively shown by the circumstance,
that the red line is drawn on the map all around the exterior boundary
of the United States; through the middle of the Northern Lakes,

thence through the Long Lake and the Rainy Lake to the Lake
of the Woods, and from the western extremity of the Lake of the
Woods to the River Mississippi ; and along that river to the point
where the boundary of the United States, according to the treaty of
peace, leaves it, and thence, by its easterly course, to the mouth of the
St. Mary's on the Atlantic'

** With such evidence of the correctness of the position taken by the
British Government in the possession of the American Cabinet, the
readiness of these wily statesmen to assent to a proposition by which
they would knowingly overreach honest and unsuspecting John Bull is
easily accounted for ; and Britain must only blame herself in being so
unprepared to defeat the designing trickery of wh.'oii, m the present
instance, she has been the subject. We envy not xLj feelings of the
American people, however, in the matter : the nations of the world
must view with merited indignation and disgust a Government which
could stoop to such meanness ; but it appears to be merely an ap-
proval, in high places, of the repudiating system adopted by public
bodies and States of the Union, — which, it is to be hoped, will yet
meet with its reward."

In the t,ettlement of the question, the principle that a British sub-
ject could never be alienated from his allegiance to his native country
has been violated, and the people of Madawasca have been bartered
as if thov were common articles of traffic?.

Fro.
the Pr
faction
praise
reflects
thai in\
The
been d
physica
general
been e>
between
and by i
diminish

In a

of Queb

rence an

along the

the St. L

the coast

rence to

Commissi

Nov. 21st

Act of 17'

Chaleurs

themselvc!

the sea, to i

is adhered

Sept. 18th

April 22nd

nors of No

Governor c

is fixed '• i

But from tl

Wished, an(

accident, or

NEW BRUNSWICK,

6.5

in every
itor -who
running
yes were
ndicating
eace, and
I the map
lie dotted
!, accord-
imstance,
boundary
rn Lakes,
the Lake
ke of the
the point
treaty of
luth of the

icn by the
Lbinct, the
by which
ihu Bull is
n being so
e present
ngs of the
tlie world
lieut which
;ly an ap-
[by jjublic
, will yet

litish sub-
\-e country
bartered

From a humane desire to preserve peace, the treaty was received in
the Provinces with silent coolness, which has been mistaken for satis-
faction ; and whatever may be the claims of Lord Ashbiirton to the
praise of an enlightened statesman and politician, the above treaty
reflects no credit upon his ability, and is disgraceful to the country
that invested him with the powers of reconciliation.

The boundary between New Brunswick and Canada East has never
been determined by actual survey, or with a proper regard to the
physical geography of the country, which seldom agrees with the
general terms employed in treaties. Now that the American line has
been explored and marked, the fixing of a permanent boundary
between the Provinces above named is necessary to prevent disputes,
and by it the timber revenues of New Brunswick will be increased or
diminished.

In a proclamation, bearing date October 7th, 1763, the boundary
of Quebec is thus described : *' The said line, crossing the St. Law-
rence and Lake Champlain in 45 degrees of North latitude, passes
along the high lands which divide the rivers that empty themselves into
the St. Lawrence from those which fall into the sea, and also along
the coast of the Bay des Chaleurs and the coast of the Gulf of St. Law-
rence to Cape Rosier." The same boundary is referred to in the
Commissions of Governors Murray and Carlton, dated respectively
Nov. 21st, 1763, and April 21st, 1767. In what is called the Quebec
Act of 1774, the Province is bounded " south by a line from Bay of
Chaleurs along the high lands which divide the rivers that wmpty
themselves into the River St. Lawrence from those which fall into
the sea, to a point in the 45th degree of North latitude." This boundary
is adhered to in the Commission of Governor Haldimand, dated
Sept. 18th, 1777, and in the Commission of Governor Carlton, of
April 22nd, 1786. In several subsequent Commissions to the Gover-
nors of Nova Scotia, and also in that of Governor Carlton, the first
Governor of New Brunswick, the northern boundary of the Province
is fixed '* as far as the western extremity of the Bay des Chaleurs."
But from the western extremity of that bay no boundary has been esta-
blished, and the River Restigouche has been adopted for the line by
accident, or from the expediency of restricting the lumbermen to cer-

NEW BRUNSWICK.

¥■

tain lurJts on both sidos. A dispute hns arisen between the two
Provinces, in regard to the boundary between tbeni ; and, after a pro-
tracted notfotiation, the matter hiis been n^ferred to tlie decision of the
Home Government.

During his explorations of thia part ol the Province! m 1842, the
writer was directed by the Provincial Go^ ernnient of New Brunswick
to examine? the country with relbrence ^o the above line, and )ils report
was not favourable to making tbe Jilestigonche the boundary. The
stream whicli has generally been understood to be the Restigouehe, at
the place where it is divided into two branches, cannot be considered
as the main river. The main stream ou some of the maps 13 called the
Cadamkiswa, which the inhabitants have changed imto Madam Kege-
wick, and finally into Tom Kedgewick, The Micrnac Indian name of
this stream h F'c~tam-kedgewee. The southerly branch of the river,
above its juni-vion with the larger stream, is called the A-waan-jeet.
The former stream is one-third larger than the latter, and is 80 yards
wide where it receives the abov? tributary. It rnay be remarked, that
when a river is foi iced, the Indians apply a distinct or new name to
each ^)vanch. The souices of the Petamkedgewee approach Temiscouta
and Metis lakes. If, therefore, this river — the main Restigouehe —
should be the boundary between the Provinces, a I'.it greater troct of
country, and more excellent timber, will fall into New Brunswick than
has been heretofore anticipated.

The river is an inconvenient boundary in the present state of the
country. Persons may contract debts on either of its sides, and by
crossing to the opposite shores be placed beyond the jurisdiction of the
law. In 1842, on the Canada side of the Restigouehe there was only
one magistrate in a distance of seventy miles of thinly-iidiabited coun-
try, and criminal oirnces who seldom punished, except l)y the too
common application of whyit is called " club laws." American vessels
landed their goods and bart( ^ed their '* notions" for fish without fear
of molestation. They could not Lo concrolled by the Collector of Cus-
toms on the New Brunswick side of the Restigouehe ; and in the
Gaspe district there was no authorised seizing -officer within sixty miles
of the mouth f the river. All the timber of the immense interior
wilderness mint be brought to the mouth of the Restigouehe, where

' ii'

one CO

sufficiei

Exco

sea, ha\

other.

the coas

well ad

Fundy s

tides an(

grottos,

With th

craft, or

NotM'i

are conij

coast po5

The la

dually d(

along the

shingle, ■

The wate

admit the

coast of (

present b

There

to its sur

northwan

occupied

tainou.5 ai

of elevatii
of cultivai
higher gn
whie'i bei
over beau
many larg
swamps, \
an ad vane

NEW BRUNSWICK.

ecn the two
, after a pro-
,'cision of the

in 1842, the
w Brunswick
jid Ills re)iovt
mdaiy. Tho
■stigoudio, at
be consiclerefi
s 13 called the
^ladarn Kege-
rdian name of

of the river,

A-ti>aan-jee.t.
id is 80 yards
emarked, that

new name to
?h Temiscouta
lestiojouche —
reatcr troct of

unswick than

t state of the
sides, and by
sdiction of the
there was only
ihabited coun-
pt by the too
nerican vessels
li without fear
Hector of Cus-
and in the
lin sixty miles
:nenRe interior
gouche, where

one code of laws and one custom-house establishment would be
sufficient for the Goveniment ond trade of this part of the country.

Except on the west, New Brunswick is nearly surrounded by the
sea, having the Bay of Fundy on one side, and the Bay Chaleurs on the
other. Although there are no deep bays like those of Nova Scotia,
the coasts are indented with fine harbours, which render the Province
well adapted for commerce and fishing. The coast on the Bay of
Fundy side is rocky and precipitous. The constant operations of the
tides and waves have scooped out, at many places, deep caverns and
grottos, or left sharp angular masses of rock projecting into the sea.
With these there are narrow deep basins, affording shelter to small
craft, or open harbours where large ships may ride in safety.

Notwithstanding Passamaquoddy Bay is studded with islands, there
are comparatively few dangerous rocks or shoals in it, and the whole
coast possesses every advantage for maritime pursuits.

The lands on the whole northern coast of the Province slope gra-
dually down beneath the sea. The water is generally shallow, and
along the border of the ocean there are extensive banks of sand and
shingle, which are separated from the main land by spacious lagoons.
The water in all the river channels is nevertheless sufficiently deep to
admit the largest ships. On the northern side of the Bay Chaleurs, or
coast of Gaspe, the shores arc of an opposite character, and frequently
present bold overhanging cliffs.

There is great diversity in the appearance of the Province in regard
to its surface. Along the coast of the Bay of Fundy, and extending
northward to a distance of thirty miles, there is a tract of hilly country,
occupied by deep and narrow ravines, which give the surface a moun-
tainous appearance ; but few of the hills attain any considerable degree
of elevation, nor are they such as would materially retard the progress
of cultivation. Watered by numerous rivulets descending from the
higher grounds, the ravines and valleys vent the smaller streams,
whic'i being collected in rivers, are frequently poured into the bay
over beautiful cataracts or boistervius rapids. In this district there are
many large tracts of naked rock, and numerous peat-bogs, or mossy
swamps, which could only be reclaimed by a dense population, and in
an advanced state of agriculture. Although there arc many fine belts

K 2

■ '4

NEW nnUNvSWICK.

of intervale* along the streams, and some patches of good soil on the
hills this division of the country, like the south side of Nova Scotia, is
not well adapted for agriculture. The scenery is wild and picturesque ;
the bold cliffs or ragged precipices, the deep valleys, the quiet lake
and the dashihg waterfall, are sometimes presented at a single view.
The close forests of liill and valley appear in summer like green waves
rising in succession above each other. Dotted on their sides by the
log-house and clearing of the settler, they declare at once the still-
infant state of the Colony, and the slow progress of husbandry.

The whole north-eastern side of New Brunswick, from Bay Verte to
Bathurst, presents a low and level surface, almost unbroken by hills.
The country at many places is uneven ; but there are few steep acclivi-
ties, except those that have been produced by the action of water upon
the beds of the rivers and other streams. Extensive marshes, inter-
vales, and floating peat-bogs are somewhat peculiar to this part of New
Brunswick. The above tract extends in a south-west direction to the
River St. John. It is the region of the great coal-field of New Bruns-
wick, and occupies an area of 5,000 square miles. Although there are
numerous parcels of land too light and sandy to be very productive,
the soil in general is good, and many tracts are of a superior quality.

There is another tr-'ct of country, extending from the Meductic Falls
on the River St. Johh to the Acadian settlement at Madawasca, and
thence in a north-east direction to the Bay Chaleurs and Restigouche.
This district is mountainous, and embraces a part of the chain of high
lands to which the Treaty of 1783 referred in reference to the boundary
between the Province and the State of Maine.

Viewed altogether, the face of the country is greatly diversified, and
exhibits almost every variety of scenery. It is indeed difficult to form
a correct idea of what the appearance of a wilderness region will be
after its surface has been partially cleared of its burden of timber, and
its level alluviums changed into fertile meadows. At many places in
the wild woods there are noble streams passing through the intervales,
and winding along their courses through lofty groves of ash and elm.
Standing along the borders of these rich fields of wild grass, there are

• An American term, signifying alluvium deposited from fresh water.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

il on the
Scotia, is
uresque ;
uiet lake
igle view.
»en waves
les by the
the still-

■y-

f Verte to
I by hills,
ep acclivi-
ratcr upon
lies, inter-
art of New
tion to the
ew Bnins-
h there are
iroductive,
quality,
uctic Falls
vasca, and
jstigouche.
lin of high
! boundary

fsified, and
ult to form
on will be
imber, and
y places in
intervales,

and elm.

there are

1i water.

sometimes abrupt rocky clift's crowned with spruce and other evergreens;
but so close is the forest, that it is only from the summit of some naked
eminence that the natural beauties of the country can be perceived, or
its future appearance be anticipated.

There are but few high mountains in British America ; in Nova
Scotia there is not an eminence that will exceed 800 feet in height.
A branch of the Alleghany chain of mountains passes through the
Northern States. Cataadan, in Maine, is the loftiest eminence on its
western borders, being upwards of 5,000 feet above the level of the
sea. In New Brunswick there is a ridge of high land which is conti-
nuous from the State of Maine to Mars Hill, near the River St. John;
from thence it stretches across the country in a north-east direction,
and sending oft' a branch to the Restigouche, it nearly reaches the Bay
Chaleurs. In this ridge there are a few mountains of considerable ele-
vation. There is also another alpine ridge, extending from the St. Croix
in a north-easterly direction, across the St. John, at the Nerepis Hills,
to Bull Moose Hill, at the head of Belle Isle Bay, where the high lands
in that quarter terminate. The mountains of the Cheputnecticook con-
nect this ridge with the former, and both are chiefly composed of pri-
mary rocks. The broken and elevated country of the Restigouche is
united to the Gaspe Mountains.

Although the height of these lands does not allow them to be classed
with the lofty mountains of other parts of the world, from their per-
pendicular flanks, their naked precipices, and sharp outlines, they are
as alpine in their general features as the mountains of more elevated
districts. The hilly country between St. John and Westmoreland has
no mountains ; and the eminence called Shepody Mountain, near the
entrance of the Peticodiac River, is only 620 feet above the level of the
sea. Mount Pleasant, at the eastern branch of the Magaquadavic, does
not exceed 800 feet. Bald and Douglas Mountains, near the Nerepis
River, are only about 600 feet in height ; and the conical eminences
eastward of the Cheputnecticook Lakes will not exceed 1,000 feet in
height.

Mars Hill has obtained some degree of notoriety, from being that
point where the due-north line of the American boundary, according to
the British claim, should have terminated. It is situated about fivt

NEW URUNSWICK.

'•I :
'I :

miles from the River St. Jol-n. It rises in the midst of the forest, and
is covered with groves of trees. Its top contains about six acres, a
part of which was cleared by the Commissioners of 1794, who erected
an observatory on its summit. The height of Mars Hill is 1,700 feet;
from it there is a most extensive and ints resting view. The more lofty
Cataadan, sixty miles distant, in the State of Maine, is distinctly
visible. Moose Mountain, Bear Mountain, and other hiyh lands of
the chain, are seen stretching away to the north-cast. The valleys of
the Aroostook and Tobiquc are also observed ; but, excepting the
American village of Houlton, and a small clearing on the St. John, the
view is one of a vast wilderness, whose lorests seem to defy the industry
of human beings.

The highest moimtains in the Province are situated at the source of
the Tobique, Upsalquitch, and Nepisiguit Rivers. Blue Mountain, Ox
Mountain, Pot Mountain, and Bald Mountain, of this range, will exceed
2,000 feet in height. This highland district affords some of the most
sublime scenery in the Province. The summits of the mountains art-
most frequently naked. In some of the deep chasms and ravines, at
their northern bases, where the rays of the sun are obstructed, the snow
does not disappear during the summer, and in the spring glaciers some-
times descend, sweeping the woods before them downwards into the
valleys below.

The streams pass through narrow and tortuous channels, frequently
overhung by stupendous cliffs ; and the water, dashing from fall to fall,
is finally lost in wreaths of spray and foam in the more quiet streams of
the lower ground. From the mountain tops nothing is to be seen in
the foreground but vast masses of shelving rock, which frequently over-
hang the tops of large trees tha', ii.ive fastened themselves to the decli-
vities, or stand erect from the bottoms of the gorges. In the distance,
the eye wanders in vain for some peculiar object in the woody covering
of the earth.

There is here a tract of country at least 300 miles in circumference
upon which there is not a human dwelling ; and the presence of the
industrious beaver is evidence that the Indians seldom penetrate so far
into the wilderness.

A mile and a half above Campbclltown, on the Restigouche River,

NEW UUUNSWICK.

rest, and
acres, a
) erected
00 feet;
ore lofty
listinctly
lands of
alleys of
iting the
ohn, the
industry

source of
itain, Ox
11 exceed
the most
itains are
ivines, at
the snow
Ts some-
jnto the

equently
11 to fall,
treams of
e seen in
tly over-
;he decli-
distance,
covering

inference
;e of the
ite so far

le River,

there is n sluirp lolly liill called the Sugar Loaf. It is about 800 feet
liigli, aiul the side fronting tlui river is a perpendicular cliif with a slope
debris at its base. Its ascent is extremely diilicult and dangerous,
except at its eastern side. Near a place called the Flat Lands, there is
ano'her conical eminence, called Ben Lomond. From the tops of these
hills the '»igh lands of the interior may bo viewed in all their grandeur,
and the Tracadegash and other mountains of Gasp6 are seen covering
the country to the north with lofty cones of anknown altitudes. South-
ward I'f the Sugar Loaf there is a wide area of table-land, which, like
the uniidud)ited district of the Tobique, is covered with a living mantle
of pine, spruce, and other evergreens.

RivcrSf Laket, ^'C,

There is perhaps no country in the world of the same extent that
enjoys greater facilities of navigation than New Brunswick. All itb
large rivers are navigable for ships, and its smaller streams afford safe
passage to boats and canoes.

The St. John is the largest river of the Province. It was discovered
by De Monts on the 24th June, 1004. By the native Etchemins it
was called the Looshtook, or Lahstok (Long River), but the Siriquous
gave it the appellation of Ouangoudy. It received its present name
from having been disco\ cred on St. John's Day. It takes its rise
near the sources of the Penobscot and Connecticut Rivers, emptying
itself into the Atlantic from the territory of the United States, and in
latitude 40° North, and longitude 69° 50" West.

By winding its way along the segment of a large circle, it traverses the
country to a distance of 500 miles, until it finally empties itself into
the Bay of Fundy, in latitude 45° 20" North, and longitude 00° West.
The Mittaywaquam from the north-west, and Walloostookwamasis*
from the south-west, unite, and having descended about fifty miles
through an uninhabited district, are joined by Black Rivers and the
Allegash. The latter stream, Fish River, and the Aroostook, flow
from the " disputed territory," and those high lands which were in-

* Sis and Asis in the Indian language signify "lesser" and "least.'
EngUsli this river, therefore, would be called " the Little Waloostook."

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

.^/

^>-

.V^

1.0

I.I

Ul 12.5

■^ Ki2 |22

:!f 1^ 12.0

L25 III 1.4 1 1.6

■• 6"

►

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(7t6) 872-4503

!>.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

it 'i

I: <:

tended by the former treaty to be the boundary between New Bruns-
wick and the State of Maine. They are supplied by numerous lakes
and rivulets, and drain a large tract of intervale and other excellent
land. Above the Grand Falls, the St. John receives Grand River,
Green River, the St. Francis, and the Madawasca. It is here navi-
gable for large boats, and its tributaries afford an easy communication
for canoes, rafts of timber, &c. i -- ■

The Grand Falls of the St. John are situated 200 miles from its
mouth, and 125 miles above Fredericton, the seat of government.
Having the bulk of its waters greatly increased by the influx from its
branches, the river sweeps through the Acadian settlements at Mada-
wasca, and expands itself into a beautiful basin immediately above the
cataract. This basin affords a safe landing-place for rafts of timber,
boats, and canoes ; but it is suddenly contracted, and the river, afler
making a detour to the south, is then poured into a deep rocky gorge
only 250 feet wide. From a peculiar excavation in the rock, the
water falls into the gorge from the front and from each side, and the river
makes a leap of 58 feet over a perpendicular cliff of calcareous slate.

Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood
Rolls fair and and placid, where, collected all
In one impetuous torrent, down the steep
It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round ;
.J. ' ' Dash'd in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft
'■: . :. A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless tthower ;
With wild infracted course and lessen'd roar.
It gains a safer bed, and steals at last
Along the mazes of the quiet vale. Thomson.

In the ascending mist is seen the ever-varying rainbow, and clouds of
white spray float over the cataract, whose thundering noise and tremu-
lous effects upon the rocks have no remission.

On the brink of the Fall the water descends six feet, and it runs so
smooth that its surface appears to be oiled. The gorge is three-
quarters of a mile long, and is flanked with perpendicular and over-
hanging cliffs, from 100 to 150 feet high. It is a narrow and frightful
chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies
and whirlpools always in motion ; at last the water plunges in an

r Bruns-
lus lakes
;xcellent
i River,
re navi-
iinication

I from its
emment.
: from its
at Mada-
,bove the
)f timber,
ver, after
ky gorge
rock, the
I the river
s slate.

I-

ION.

clouds of
id tremu-

t runs so
is three-
nd over-
frightful
ng eddies
es in an

>
r
t-

c
s
z

■ml

NEW BRUNSWICK.

immense frothy sheet into a basin below, where it becomes tranquil,
and the stream resumes its original features. The river seems to be
swallowed up by the earth, and again poured forth from a dark sub-
terranean channel too narrow to give it vent. In passing along the
rocky gorge, the water also decends 58 feet, making the whole fall of
the river at this place 116 feet, which is the difference of level between
the upper and lower basins. — The descent of a raft of timber over the
Falls affords an amusing spectacle. Pieces of pine, 60 feet in length,
will sometimes shoot up into the air endwise almost their whole length,
and the largest trees are frequently broken. The projecting rocks
along the sides of the gorge produce eddies, into which the timber is
often drawn, and where it revolves against the rocks until it is much
injured, or ground to pieces. Whole rafts are sometimes detained in
these eddies greatly to the loss of the timber-dealers. — The Grand Falls
of the St. John are only surpassed in grandeur in British America by
the magnificent Cataract of Niagara. Immediately adjoining the river
at this place there is a little village. The lands on the small peninsula
formed by the bending of the river still belong to the Crown. This
place has long been the site of a military post ; and since the settlement
of the Boundary dispute, our Government has commenced the erection
of fortifications, for which the place is admirably adapted. A new
township has also been surveyed, and in a few years this locality will
be one of much importance. A bridge may be thrown over the nar-
row chasm below the Falls, whereby an easy communication will be
obtained betv 'een the opposite sides of the river ; and along a ravine
that extends nearly across the peninsula, it is practicable *o open a
canal, with locks, to avoid the Falls, and render the navigation safe.*
At the present time, all the goods, boats, canoes, &c. that ascend and
descend the river at this place are transported across a portage,-)- 150
rods between the upper and lower basins.

About three and a half miles below the Falls, there are two dangerous
rapids. One of these is called Rapid de Femme, from having been

• The Grand Falls of the St. John arc on the mail route between New
Brunswick and Quebec. f A carrying-place.

Ins '.

NBW BRUNSWICK.

scaled by a woman. They arise from the confinement of the water
between high rocky cliffs. The distance between the cataract and the
town of Woodstock is 72 miles. This part of the St. John receives two
great tributaries, the Aroostook and the Tobiqiie. Besides these, there
are the Pecagomik, opposite the village of Wakefield ; the Shictahank,
Monquart, and Munic, which flow in from the northward, having taken
their rise near the head of the south-west Miramichi. The Presq* Isle
and River des Chutes, two small streams, enter from the north-west.

The Aroostook is the largest tributary of the St. John ; its sources
are at Lakes Millinoket and Millinoketsis, near the head waters of the
Penobscot, in the State of Maine. The distance between one of the
tributaries of the Penobscot and the Aroostook is only 186 rods. This
river enters the St. John from the westward, eighteen miles below the
Grand Falls, and is navigable for boats and rafts of timber 100 miles.
In Hs course, it receives ten minor streams. The river and several of
its branches run through an expanded valley of excellent soil, and all
the streams are skirted with rich intervales. The pine forests will afford
for many years a great supply of the best timber, the chief part of
which must be transported down the St. John before it can be shipped
for market.

By the ratification of the late treaty in the settlement of the Boundary
question, the whole of the Aroostook territory was transferred to the
Americans. Previous to that period the whole district was almost an
uninhabited wilderness ; but its excellent soil and timber soon attracted
the people of the United States after the termination of the dispute,
and improvements of every kind are now rapidly advancing.

Fort Fairfield, belonging to the Americans, is situated five miles from
the St. John, where the Boundary line crosses the Aroostook. Three
miles below the fort, on the British side, the river passes through a
narrow gorge, where there is a frightful rapid. At the lower part of
this rapid there is a Fall of seventeen feet, and the water descends by
two steps into a beautiful basin. A rock situated in the middle of the
Falls divides the stream, and the cliffs on each side are forty feet high.
These Falls, as well as those of the St. John, have retreated some
distance, and both of them are still slowly advancing up the rivers that

NEW BRUNSWICK.

• 11

•III

lie water
: and the
iivcs two
(80, there
ctahank,
ng taken
resq' Isle
-west.
I sources
rs of the
ne of the
Is. This
below the
00 miles,
several of
il, and all
vill afford
if part of
B shipped

Boundary

•ed to the

almost an

attracted

dispute,

liles from
Three
through a
er part of
scends by
ile of the
feet high,
ted some
ivers that

flow over them. Between this place and the main river, there are two
dangerous rapids.*

The distance between the Grand Falls and the mouth of the Aroos-
took is eighteen miles, and the banks of the river can scarcely be said
to be inhabited. The lands on each side are hilly. The soil is never-
theless very good, and extensive surveys have recently been made in
this quarter in order to facilitate the settlement of the new lands.

The Tobique River is the next largest tributary t{ the St. John, and
nearly equal to the Aroostook in its extent. Its mouth is twenty
miles below the Grand Falls, and two miles below the confluence of th«
above river with the main stream. The direction of this river is to the
north-east, and about eighty miles from its mouth it is divided into
four branches. One of those branches enters from the south-east, and
proceeds from three Inkes, the largest of which is about twelve mCes in
length. These lakes are situated at the principal sources of the
Miramichi. The old Indian portage between the waters of the Mira-
michi and those of the St. John was only one mile in length. The
other branches extend to the northward, and nearly meet the sources
of the Upsalquitch and Nepisiguit, emptying into the Bay Chaleurs.
All these rivers take their rise in one district, and in the mountainous
region already described.

As the Tobique River and its tributaries are uninhabited, and offer
a wide field for emigrants, a more extended notice of them may be
given than of districts already occupied by settlements.

At the mouth of the river there is a considerable tract of terraced
intervale, which, with several thousands of acres of excellent upland,
belong to the Melecete Indians. The islands in the mouth of the river
are very productive. There is here an Indian village of twenty-six
houses, a chapel, and 200 souls. It is a sort of depot for timber, where
frequently in the spring season three or four hundred men are employed

* In one of these rapids the Author was placed in imminent peril in 1842, and,
notwithstanding the skill of his Indian guide, his canoe passed over a " pitch "
of six feet, and filled with water. A few days nrevious, a stranger " in a log "
passed the upper rapid, and was on the brink of the Fall, when, perceiving his
danger, he sprang from his canoe, laid hold of a rock, and saved his life. The
canoe was dashed to pieces.

>{,

NEW BRUNSWICK.

in preparing the rafts to descend the main St. John. The Indians
obtain a scanty living by cultivating a few acres of land, rafting timber,
fishing, and hunting. In the spring of 1842, two of the Indians were
in possession of furs to the amount of £150. They had at that time
eighty bear-skins, and thirty pounds of castor.

The Indian grant at this place occupies an important situation. As
the Melecete tribe do not cultivate their lands, it would be advantageous
to this part of the country if an exchange could be made with them,
whereby they might enjoy all their privileges, and the trade tliey now
possess at the mouth of the Tabique be opened to improvement by
emigrants. Care should be taken that the property of these people
should be rendered secure, and not to be placed at their own disposal ;
for it is a trait in the Indian character, to put a low value even upon
the most feicile soil.

Ascending the river, one mile above the Indian village, there is a
rapid called the " Narrows." The river at this place passes through
a chasm a mile long, and upon an average only one hundred and fifty
feet w^de, and between perpendicular cliffs from fifty to one hundred
feet high. Through this opening the water rushes with great violence,
and the projecting masses of rock produce violent whirlpools, so that
in times of freshets canoes cannot pass, and rafts of timber are fre-
quently broken up by being dashed against the cliffs. The gorge is
too narrow to vent the water from above — it therefore rises and rushes
through the narrow channel with great impetuosity. The navigation
of the river at this place may hereafter be greatly improved, by the
erection of dams and locks. It is an excellent site for mills and
machinery, and a dam may be constructed in such a manner as not to
injure the salmon-fishery of the stream. From the mouth of the river
to the *' Red Rapids" the distance is eleven miles. The water runs at
a moderate rate, and large boats may be towed up by horses. There
are several small islands, and patches of intervale. The banks of the
stream are high, and closely covered with a mixed growth of hard wood
and hemlock. Red and white clover, wild roses, onions, peas, wild
plums, currants, and gooseberries, grow spontaneously. There are also
the balsamic poplar, high cranberry, butternut, and thorn, with a
variety of other indigenous plants.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

he Indiani
ing timber,
dians vrere
t that time

[ition. As
b^antageous
vith them,
J tliev now
vement by
lese people
1 disposal ;
;ven upon

there is a
s through
d and fifty
e hundred
t violence,
s, so that
T are fre-
le gorge is
md rushes
navigation
d, by the
mills and
as not to
f the river
;er runs at
?. There
ks of the
lard wood
leas, wild
•e are also
1, with a

The river, by passing over a ledge at the Red Rapids, is again
broken. It could, nevertheless, be made navigable for two boats at
a trifling expense. In 1837, a number of persons, known as the
Tobiquc Mill Company, built a dam across the river and erected ex-
tensive saw-mills at this plape ; but before the mills were put in
operation, a part of the dam was carried away, and the undertaking
abandoned, £27,000 having been expended in the fruitless enterprise.

It had been intended by the Provincial Government that the road
between Fredericton and the Grand Falls should cross the Tobique at
this point, and a large sum uf money was expended between the
Rapids and the former place ; but, from a series of objections to this
route, the project has been given up.*

Twenty miles farther up the river, a tributary flows in from the east,
called the V/nnskanegan, from the Indian Aw-kee-auc-waps-ka-nee-gan,
which signifies *' a river with a wall at its mouth." This stream runs
through a belt of fine intervale and a valley of good upland, and is
navigable for canoes twenty miles. Along its banks there is an abun-
dance of gypsum and limestone ; these minerals are also abundant on
the Tobique.

Thirteen miles above the Wapskanegnn there is another large tribu-
tary, called by the Indians the Agulquac, which also enters from the
east. Between the mouths of those two tributaries, there are Long
Island, Diamond Island, and others, consisting altogether of rich
alluviums, covered with ash, elm, and poplar. There are also extensive
intervales on each side of the river. All ihe uplands in this quarter
are of an excellent quality. The soil, i dark-coloured loam, bears a

• Near this place, the Author, on the 51 a day of July, 1842, during his ex-
ploration of the river, witnessed a most violent tornado. A small cloud rose
quickly from the west, and soon spread itself so as to produce almost total
darkness. The lightning began to flash from the clouds, and sharp peals of
thunder rattled along the valley, accompanied with a shower of pieces of ice as
large as musket-balls. The shower of ice lasted five minutes, and was suc-
ceeded by the blast of a hurricane and whirlwind, which tore up the trees, and
levelled the forest to the ground. The width of the tornado did not exceed
half u mile, and in its course to the east it left an open space of fallen trees,
distinctly marking its track. Such tornadoes are very rare in New Brunswick.

i ' l-l

NEW BRUNSWICK.

heavy growth of sugar-maplo, yellow birch, hemlock, and pine. The
Agulquac is navigable for canoes twcnty-fivo miles. It passes through
a fine tract of land, and a belt of intervale. A large area in this dis-
trict was overrun by fire in 1825. The dreary appearance of the
vrildemess after the fire had induced some of the lumbermen to sup-
pose that the soil was barren, but there is every evidence of its being
fertile.

At the base of Blue Mountain the stream is seventy-five yards v/ide,
and the intervales are extensive. The whole country from this place
to the main St. John is comparatively level; but from that point
northward it assumes a new feature, and becomes elevated.

Still proceeding northward, the character of the river, with its inter-
vales and islands, remains unchanged, and its beauty is increased by the
lofty hills seen in the distance. All the lands on the slopes and along
the valleys are fit for cultivation, and many tracts are of a superior
quality. The alluviums are covered with elm, balsamic poplar, ash,
alder, &c. Wild hay is abundant ; and there are indigenous grapes,
wild plums, currants, gooseberries, mint, rhubarb, and wild onions. -

About eighty miles from its mouth the Tobique is divided into four
branches. Where these branches meet, and in the country around
them, the lands are still well adapted for settlement. The streams that
descend from the lakes to the north-east are blocked up with fallen
cedars and "jams"* of trees, which render them altogether unnavi-
gable even for light bark canoes.

Still farther northward, the country becomes exceedingly mountainous
and broken. There are lofty ridges of rock, and fields of granitic
boulders, which the industry of man can never render fertile, nor the
art of agriculture improve. It is among these mountains, far in the
interior, that the native wild animals find a retreat, and the beaver lives
in safety within his dwelling.

The extreme sources of the Tobique wind their courses among
naked and almost inaccessible mountains. Bald Mountain is 2240
feet high, .and is svirrounded by several lofty cones but little inferior in
altitude.

Immoveable rafts of timber.

pine. The
ises through
in this dis-
ancc of the
j\en to sup-
of its being

yards v/ide,

Ti this place

that point

th its inter-
iased by the
s and along
f a superior
poplar, ash,
ous grapes,
onions. -
I into four
try around
breams that
with fallen
ler unnavi-

ountainous
of granitic
e, nor the
, far in the
eaver lives

es among
1 is 2240
inferior in

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Formerly there were immenao groves of white and red pine in the
vicinity of this stream, but most of these have been destroyed by fires.
Spruce, cedar, larch, and hemlock arc still abundant ; and there are fine
groves of beech, birch, and maple. In the stream there are seventy
islands, all composed of alluvial soil. The river abounds iu salmon,
trout, and other kinds offish.*

The Tobique is navigable for tow-boats and canoes 100 miles from
its mouth. Between its head waters and the Nepisiguit the portage is
two miles. The lands in the region of this river still remain ungranted,
and they arc better adapted to the circantstances of a respectable class
of emigrants and settlers than those of almost any other district in the
Province.

It would be diflicult to form a correct opinion in regard to the
climate of the valley of the Tobique country from the experience of a
single exploration. From the nature of the plants and their luxuriance,
it is evident that the climate is milder there than nearer the coast.
From the 5th to the 20th of July, the average range of the thermometer
was from 90° to 95° in the middle of the day, and sometimes the
mercury would rise to 100° in the shade. There is a great change of
temperature in the forest during the night, when the mercury will frc»
quently fall to 50° and even to 46° during the hottest season.'}-

In order to facilitate its settlement, the Tobique district might be
formed into new counties and townships, and its lands surveyed into
lots of 100 acres each; but it is not probable that tlie Provincial
Government will make roads through this wilderness country, until
settlers have first advanced and taken possession of the lands.;};

A small branch of the St. John, called the Meduxnakeaq, passes

* In 1842, a settler living near the mouth of the Tobique killed twelve
barrels of salmon with a single spear ; and they were sold for £5 currency
per barrel.

t The black flies and mosquitoes, so numerous in the woods, cease to sting
when the thermometer is at 95, and also when the mercury descends to
55. — 75 may be called the best biting point of those insects.

t Between the city of St. John and Fredericton there are daily steam-boats
in the summer season, and steam-boats will hereafter ascend to Woodstock.
At present families and baggage are removed in tow-boats, plying on the

\ ■'

m
m

NEW BRUNSWICK.

through the town of Woodstock, where it is crossed by a substantial
bridge. This river is navigable for rafts of timber and canoes to the
distance of twenty miles, and forms a water communication between
the above place and Iloulton on the American side of the line. Di-
rectly below Woodstock, there is a large tract of supi lior intervale
rising from the river by successive steps.

Eel River, another tributary, empties itself into the St. John twelve
miles below Woodstock. It is about thirty-five miles in length, and
proceeds from a beautiful lake to the southward. Between this lake
and the north Cheputnecticook Lake, the distance is only three miles.
It was along this river and the lakes that the Indians formerly pursued
their route from the St. John to the Penobscot. This stream is navi-
gable for boats, except near its mouth, and at a fall near the lake ; it
passes through a tract of good land, and its banks are skirted with
intervales.

About ten miles below Woodstock, there is another rapid in the St.
John, called the Meductic Falls. The river is narrow, and descends
over reefs and boulders of granite, which render the passage of boats
difHcult and very dangerous to any except skilful pilots. Between
Eel River and Fredericton, a number of small streams enter the main
river on both of its sides. The Shogamock and Pokiok* come in
from the south ; and the Nackawick, Mactaquack, Keswick, and other
rivulets, from the north. The Pokiok is fed from a lake in the
interior, and is poured into the St. John through a deep and narrow
gorge, and over a beautiful waterfall. The Keswick is skirted by some
fine alluviums, and its banks were settled by disbanded soldiers shortly
afler the peace of 1763. The scenery between Woodstock and Frede-
ricton is bold ; and the valley of the St. John, being gradually expanded,
is occupied by extensive intervales. Although the chief parts of these
intervales are cultivated, they still bear lofty elms, and their borders
are fringed with low shrubbery, Notwithstanding there are numerous

fii ? . f

ll'NI'

river as far up as the Grand Falls. Those boats may ascend the Tobique in
the summer time, or canoes may be procured for that purpose at the mouth of
the river.
• From the Indian Piquihoak, " dreadful place,"

NEW HUUN8W1CK.

fino farms and luxuriant fields along th« flanks of the hills, the surface
of the enrth prrsi'uts the aspect of u new country.

Fri'dericton, the capital of New Hrunswick, in situated sixty-fivo
miles by land and eighty-five by water above the mouth of the St.
John, and sixty-four miles below Woodstock. The river is here three-
(juarters of a mile wide, and navigable for ships to the sea. Nearly
opposite the town there are two streams — the Nashwaak and the Nash-
waaksis. The branches of the former nearly meet one of the sources of
the Miramiehi to the north. This river also abounds in fertile allu-
viums, which are met on each side by sloping? uplands.

Between Fredericton and the mouth of the St. John, the main river
resembles a lake. The tide flows to Chapel Har, four miles above the
capital, and seldom rises over fifteen inches. The noble stream is now
spread out into small bays, and inlets communicating with lakes, along
its margin. In descending, the valley is greatly enlarged, and its whole
area is occupied by extensive tracts of alluvial soil, islands, ponds, and
creeks, through which the majestic St. John sullenly winds its way,
bearing upon its bosom the steamboats and numerous craft of the river.
The alluvial banks, as well as the higher grounds, are extensively ''ul-
tivated. The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms and forest-
trees, or sheltered by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native
bushes. Through the numerous openings in the shrubbery, the visitoi*,
in traversing the river, sees the white fronts of the cottages, and other
buildings ; and, from the constant change of position, in sailing, nn
almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's eye.
During the summer season, the surface of the water affords an interest-
ing spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved down-
wards by the current. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the
lumberman, with his family, a cow, and occasionally a haystack, all
destined for the city below. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion ;
while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished surface of the
stream, and send it rippling on the shore. In the midst of this land-
scape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by
the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated
scenery.

But how is this pleasing prospect changed in autumn, winter, and

^ 'i

■ii

• ',\

t <

:lli

viil

I.:

jiil

NEW BRUNSWICK.

spring 1 The floods of those seasons cover all the intervales. The
valley of the lower St. John, with all its cultivated fields and fertile
meadows, is overspread by the water, which sometimes sweeps away
houses, bams, stacks of hay, cattle, and everything that is moveable :
and when " ice-jams"* occur, the inhabitants themselves are in danger.
During the freshet season, some of the people remove to the higher
grounds, each having a summer and winter residence. Others live and
secure thtir stock on small islands, or eminences in the midst of the
water : and instances frequently occur when families are driven to the
upper stories of their dwellinjTS. At the door of each house is chained
a canoe, the only vehicle employed on all occasions. At those periods
the valley has a dreary aspect : the tops of the buildings, lofty trees,
and numerous haystacks are seen standing erect in the midst of the
inland sea, with steamboats and smaller craft sailing among them in
almost every direction. -j- In the middle of winter, the scenery is again
changed, and the valley becomes a sheet of ice, traversed by sleds and
sleighs to its remotest borders. In the month of May, the deluge is
withdrawn, and green fields are seen smiling where all had been a scene
of desolation.

Twelve miles b'jlow, another stream, called the Oromucto, enters
from the south-west. It proceeds from a remote lake, and drains a
fertile tract of country. It was at the mouth of this stream that the
first permanent British settlement was made in New Brunswick, and
the Courts of Justice were held there until 178J>.

French and Maquapit Lakes, with the rivulets flowing into them from
the north, are discharged into the main stream above Gagetown, a vil-
lage near the mouth of the Gemsec.

The Grand Lake is about forty-five miles from St. John, and thirty
from Fredericton. It is separated from the main river by an alluvial tract

* Collections of masses of ice that obstruct the passage of the water in the
rivers of North America.

t It is an extraordinary fact, that some of the farmers on the St. John ob-
tain a crop of vegetables and a crop of fish from the same piece of ground
annually. Upon such parcels of land they catch their herring during the
freshet season; after the water subsides, they plant then with potatoes or
grain, which generally succeed well.

ales. The
and fertile
veeps away
moveable :
e in danger,
the higher
?rs live and
lidst of the
iven to the
3 is chained
lose periods
lofty trees,
lidst of the
ig them in
ery is again
y sleds and
e deluge is
een a scene

icto, enters
d drains a
n that the
swick, and

them from
own, a vil-

and thirty
luvial tract

,vater in the

t. John ob-
e of ground
during the
)otatoes or

NEW BRUNSWICK. %$

a mile wide, and communicates wit) by the channel called the Gemsec.
This beautiful sheet of water is aiso connected with the two lakes just
mentioned by free openings, cut through the alluvium of the intervales.
All these lakes and channels are navigable, and no obstacle to the
passage of vessels is presented, except in the latter part of summer,
when the water is low.

From the almost constant current down the lakes, the alluvium made
upon their shores, ami by the streams emptying into them, is swept
onward towards the river ; and it has not only formed extensive tracts
of intervale, but also choked up the natural outlets of the water, which
is now confined to narrow and deep channels.

The Grand Lake is thirty miles long, and from three to six miles in
breadth. In it the tide rises six inches. It is not, however, to be
supposed that the ocean flows so far up, and into the lake — the effect
is produced by the elevation of the sea a few feet above the level of
the river at high-water on the coast. The result of that elevation
is obvious. The fresh water being prevented from escaping, ac-
cumulates, regurgitation takes place, and the lakes and rivers rise,
more or less, even a huiJred miles above the d^bouchement of the
stream.

The common rise at Indian Town, near the City of St. John, is
eighteen inches ; in the Grand Lake, six inches : above Fredericton,
or one hundred miles from the Bay of Fundy, the rise disappears alto-
gether. From the northern extremity of the Grand Lake, the Salmon
River, a beautiful stream, comes in from the north-east, where it nearly
touches the sources of the Richibucto, emptying itself into the Gulf of
St. Lawrence. The principal outlet of the Grand Lake is called the
Gemsec. It is a narrow but deep channel, three miles in length.
Although this place is now the seat of rural industry, and not of war,
in the early settlement of the country by the French it was the theatre
of several bloody engagements. It was the stronghold of the French
upon the St. John, and the resort of the savages, who there obtained
arms and ammunition to attack the settlements of New England. It
was at this spot where the heroic Madame de la Tour bravely defended
her garrison during her husband's absence, and compelled her enemies
to retreat, until she was betrayed, when her soldiers were hung and

G 2

] H:^

••; n

NEW BRUNSWICK.

i ■ 1

herself tortured by the hatred of Charnisse, her countryman and cowardly
conqueror.

Six miles below the Gemsec there is another arm of the river, called
the Washadamoak. It is a narrow lake, thirty miles in length. It
terminates in a river of the same name. The river springs from the
head of the Cocagne, and the banks of both are but thinly in-
habited.

Belle Isle Bay is also a deep inlet, navigable for ships. From this
bay the river turns to the south-west, and runs a direct course to the
distance of sixteen miles. The alluviums now begin to disappear, and
the stream is confined between hills of considerable altitude. This
straight section of the St, John is called the Long Reach, which ter-
minates in a noble sheet of water known as Grand Bay. This bay
also sends out an arm to the north-east, called the Kenebecasis, which
receives the Kenebecasis and Hammond Rivers. From the westward
the bay takes in a stream from the Nerepis Hills.

There is not a river in America of the same extent that has so narrow
an outlet as the St. John. From Grand Bay to the Falls, a distance of
four miles, this noble stream passes through a crooked channel, at many
places not exceeding two hundred and fifty feet in width, while in the
interior of the country the stream will average from one to three miles
in breadth. The rocky shores of its outlet have not been worn down
and scooped out, as is common to all rivers giving passage to great
quantities of ice. On the contrary, they appear to have been separated
from each other at a period comparatively recent ; and the gorge
through which the river now passes at Indian Town appears like a
deep fissure opened by some sudden movement in the earth. It is
probable that the St. John uad formerly two mouths, one opening from
the Kenebecasis down the present site of the marsh, and the other
opening from Grand Bay through the Manawagonish ; but the same
causes that opened the ne\ channel have obliterated the old ones.
That the whole line of coast westward has been elevated from eighteen
to twenty-six feet and upwards, is proved by the marine shells found
in the clay and marl beds now elevated the above number of feet
above the highest tides. The condition of the Magaguadavic is similar
to that of the St. John, whose bed has been raised, and a stream that

1 cowardly

'er, called

jngth. It

from the

thinly ip-

From this
urse to the
ppear, and
ide. This
which ter-
This bay
isis, which
e westward

s so narrow
distance of
lel, at many
hile in the
three miles
worn down
^e to great
n separated
the gorge
)ears like a
irth. It is
)cning from
the other
the same
2 old ones.
»m eighteen
■hells found
her of feet
ic is similar
stream that

NEW BRUNSWICK.

was formerly in all probability very rapid has become like a lake, from
the narrowness of its mouth, which has been changed by causes alto-
gether geological.*

The Harbour of St. John is neither very spacious nor commodious.
From its shallowness and the violence of the current, large ships can-
not enter it at low-water. Those disadvantages are in some degree
compensated by the elevation of the tides, which are very favourable
to shipbuilding and the transportation of timber. The debouchement of
the river is between perpendicular walls of limestone, where the channel
is only one hundred and fifty yards wide. Its deficiency in space is
made up in the violence of the current, which runs with inconceiva-
ble swiftness, the waters rushing down a frightful rapid called the
" Falls."

The ordinary tides of the harbour rise below the Falls twenty-six
feet ; above the Falls, their cominf^n elevation is only about eighteen
inches : therefore, the height of the fall outwards is twenty-four feet six
inches. But the entrance of the river at the gorge is too narrow to
admit the sea on the flood-tide to flow in freely, and therefore there is
the singular occurrence of a fall inwards at high-water, and a fall out-
wards at low-water. The time for vessels to pass through the narrow
opening, or Falls, is fixed at three quarters of an hour at each ebb and
flood, or when the sea and river are l )th at the same level. The fall
outwards has been estimated at twenty feet, and at high tides the fall
inwards at high- water is fifteen feet, making the whole height of this
double fall thirty-five feet.

The accumulated waters of this extensive river here rush through a
narrow chasm, and descend down a rocky slope into the sea. The
current is in some degree checked by two small islands in the basin
above. Having passed those islands, the water plunges forward with
tremendous fury ; but on the flood-tide the scene is reversed : the
ocean spreads its mantle over the cataract ; and, by flowing inwards, it

• There is a trivdition of the Indians, that the " Great Spirit " once grew
angry, and ahut up the Looshtook, or St. John. Some of the natives still
believe that a gigantic beaver appeared on the earth, and in a single night
built a dam across the river, so that all the country above was overflowed.

;!;|-«

''\-\

ftll;,

III

NEW BRUNSWICK.

silences the noisy rapid, closes the tide-lock of the Falls, and, in its turn,
rolls inwards upon the river. Having passed the Falls, the stream turns
suddenly to the eastward, and the water, covered with fleecy masses of
foam, mingles with the sea.

The next river of much importance emptying itself into the Bay of
Fundy is the St. Croix, which forms the boundary between the Province
and the United States to its eastern source ; although its western branch
was the one contemplated as being the line cf separation betv/een the
two countries ; for as early as 1621, in the grant made to Sir "William
Alexander, that river, to its most remote western spring, was declared
to be the boundary of Acadia, or Nova Scotia.

The Indians always called this river Schoodic, or Schoodeag, which
signifies " low and swampy ground." The stream itself emerges from
land of that description. The St. Croix, which has already been
noticed in the early history of the Province, after passing along the
western side of the County of Charlotte, empties itself into Passama-
qnoddy Bay, at the town of St. Andrew's. It is here a mile and a quarter
wide, and near its centre is the little island upon which De Monts and
his party wintered in the early discovery of the country. About ten
miles above St. Andrew's, the river diverges to the west, and a beautiful
sheet of water called Oak Bay extends to the north. These, with a
small cove and rivulet to the east, are supposed to have given to the
first discoverers the idea of a cross, from which the river received its
name. It is navigable for large ships to St. Stephen's, seventeen miles
above St. Andrew's, where it is broken by a fall. At this place and
at Milltown, three miles above, the stream is occupied by powerful
saw-mills.

After running a very irregular course, the river turns to the north-
west ; and, about forty miles from its mouth, it is again interrupted by
a cataract. The Falls are separated into upper and lower ; between
them the water passes over an inclined plane, and rolls over a broken
cliff. At the upper Fall, i,he water rushes through a narrow gorge, and
descends twelve feet. The waters of the Schoodic and Cheputnecticook
Rivers, descending from lakes in the interior, rush over these Falls and
the rapid between them with great fury. Large pieces of timber and
logs are frequently elevated high above the water, and plunged into the

NEW BRUNSWICK.

n its turn,
earn turns
masses of

he Bay of
: Province
;rn branch
itv/een the
ir "William
,s declared

;ag, which
erges from
eady been
along the
Passama-
d a quarter
Monts and
About ten
a beautiful
ise, with a
iven to the
•eceived its
iteen miles
i place and
y powerful

the north-
rrupted by
between
r a broken
gorge, and
itnecticook
e Falls and
imber and
ed into the

pool beneath. Large trees are sometimes broken in pieces while passing
the gorge ; and the sound produced by the concussion of the logs against
each other and the rocks is like the noise of distant artillery. From be-
ing confined between the cliffs and to a narrow channel, the water rushes
forward with frightful impetuosity, until it is poured into the more
tranquil part of the stream, the surface of which is always concealed
beneath beautiful waves of white foam. Frequently the mouth of the
rapid is blocked up with the rafts of the lumbermen, so that the timber
cannot pass, and a *' timber jam " is produced : the clearing away ^f
such jams is the most dangerous and difficult part of the stream-driver's ♦
employment.

Directly above the upper Fall, there are two small islands, situated at
the confluence of the Schoodic, or St. Croix, and the Cheputnecticook
Rivers. The average breadth o^ the streams at this place is sixty yards.
The Schoodic branch extends westerly into the country recently con-
firmed to the State of Maine. Two miles above, on the other branch,
there is another dangerous rapid, known as the Cheputnecticook Falls.

The whole country in this quarter is uninhabited, and seldom visited
except by the lumbermen, and the Indians in search of game. Along
the river there are small tracts of low intervale, bearing wild grass
suitable for fodder, and very useful to the settler on wild lands. The
uplands, which were formerly covered with groves of pine, are fit for
cultivation.

The Cheputnecticook is a very boisterous river, and broken by
numerous rapids and several falls besides those already mentioned.
From the mouth of the St. Croix to its first lake, the distance along
the stream is upwards of seventy miles.

The Cheputnecticook Lakes are about forty-five miles in length ;
their breadth is very irregular, being not more than a quarter of a mile
at some sit'-^tions, and ten miles at others. They present a series of
narrow straits and wide bays, with deep inlets and creeks. The gene»j.i
course of the chain is about north-west ; and on its northern side there
are a great number of deep inlets, all running in the direction of the

* Men who float timber down the rivers.

i'l\

NEW BRUNSWICK.

main lake. Those inlets, numerous islands, and narrow passages, render
the navigation of this beautiful inland basin very intricate.

Notwithstanding the water is very deep, and may be navigated by
vessels of considerable burthen, vast white granitic boulders rise above
the surface, and are also seen at various depths beneath the transparent
water. The shores are also lined with boulders, which at many places
form natural wharves, with twenty and even forty feet of water around
their perpendicular sides. The hills slope gradually down to the shores,
where the blocks of white granite appear like solid masonry, and ex-
hibit a degree of neatness seldom seen on the borders of lakes in the
wilderness. The numerous islands are covered with cedar, hemlock,
spruce, and birch. The mountains and hills of the shore bear lofty
groves of pine, hemlock, and larch ; elm, ash, and cedar being the pro-
ductions of the lower ground. In general, the soil is strong and fertile.

Universal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests
around them. From the tops of the higliest hills no appearance of a
clearing nor any signs of cultivation can be seen — not even the " log-
road" can be traced far from the water, and the only indications of
human industry are the naked poles of the lumberman's deserted camp,
and the ancient trails of the Indians.

Ornamented with islands and branched with placid bays, the Che-
putnecticook is stretched out before the traveller, who here views the
country as it was before the European set his foot upon the soil, or the
native savage had been deprived of his wild inheritance. At present,
these inland sheets of water are the summer resort of numerous species
of ducks and other wild fowl. Their shores are also frequented by
droves of moose, carriboo, Virginian deer, bears, wolves, and other ani-
mals ; and the water abounds with the finest trout, perch, and a species
of salmon called togue,* weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds.

From the extremity of the Grand Cheputnecticook Lake there is a
narrow passage, a mile long, communicating with the North Lake, into
which a streain enters from the northward called Monument Brook.
Its source was the site from which the due-north line was taken by the
Commissioners under the Treaty of 1814 to settle the boundary. The

* Salmo IIuco of Sir Humphrey Davy.

;s, render

gated by
ise above
ansparent
iiiy places
er around
he shores,
, and ex-
ices in the
, hemlock,
bear lofty
g the pro-
ad fertile,
the forests
ranee of a
the •' log-
ications of
rted camp,

the Che-
views the
oil, or the
U present,
>us species
uented by
other ani-
d a species
nds.

there is a
L,ake, into
nt Brook,
ten by the
arv. The

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Monument, as it has been called, is a marked cedar'tree. Between the
North Lake and Eel River Lake, emptying itself into the River St.
John, the distance is only three miles. This was a portage of the In-
dians long before the country was discovered by the English. In
passing from the St. John to the Penobscot, the natives ascended Eel
River, crossing the above portage with their canoes into the before-
mentioned lakes, whence another portage of three miles brought them
to a branch of the Penobscot. Along this route they transported their
arms and provisions from the fort at the Gemsec into New England, to
attack and destroy the villages of the British inhabitants.

These ancient trails are narrow paths winding among the trees and
along the sides of the hills ; and so long have they been travelled, that
the solid rocks are now furrowed by the mocassins of the native tribes.
Some of the extreme branches of the St. Croix nearly meet the sources
of the Magaguadavic, and almost the whole of the interior of this part
of the Province may be traversed in a light bark canoe.

The Digdeguash is a small rapid stream, not navigable beyond the
harbour at its mouth.

The Magaguadavic extends from the coast of the Bay of Fundy in a
northerly direction across the country almost to the St. John, and the
lakes whence it issues nearly communicate with the Shogamock, a small
tributary cf the latter river. In its course through the uninhabited
country, it presents alternate distances of smooth and rapid water, with
several falls ; and having passed through a wide plain of intervale at
the base of the high lands, it reaches the sea, and opens into a beautiful
harbour of the same name. That the site of this intervale was at some
remote period a lake, there is the most satisfactory evidence. At the
chief village, the bed of the river is nearly one hundred feet above the
highest rise of the tide, into which the river falls by five successive
steps, and through a' chasm averaging thirty feet wide and a hundred
feet deep.

The saw-mills fastened to the sides of the clifTs have greatly modified
the appearance of this remarkable spot. Having swept slowly along
the valley above, the accumulated water is thrown into the deep and
narrow opening, where, spouting from cliff to cliff, and twisting its
foaming column to correspond with the rude windings of the passage.

U :• 1*1
1* >■.

4il

I '■•>■■

^■' 'V)

\.':..i

NEW BRUNSWICK.

it falls in a torrent of foam into the sea ; or, passing beneath the wheels
of the mills, its fury is scarcely abated as it mingles with the spray
floating above. The river then advances along a narrow passage be-
tween rugged cliifs, and makes its debouchement into the Bay. The
Poclogan, Le Proe, and Musquash are minor streams fed by lakes. At
the mouth of the latter there is one of the best harbours in America ;
the stream above is bordered by a large tract of marsh. The small
streams emptying themselves into the Bay between the Harbour of
St. John and Shepody require in this p'ace no particular description.

The Peticodiac takes its rise near the sources of the Kenebecasis,
and having run in a north-easterly direction forty miles, turns at a right
angle, called the Bend.* It then runs to the south twenty miles, and
discharges its waters into Shepody Bay. It is navigable for vessels of
a hundred tons burthen thirty miles from its mouth, and large ships are
laden at its curve. Here the tide flows in and ebbs off in six hours,
and runs at the rate of seven miles an hour. The flood-tide is accom-
panied by a splendid " bore," or tidal wave, which at spring-tides is
f ve ai.d sometimes six feet high. The rushing of this overwhelming
lyave is accompanied by a noise like distant thunder, and affords an
interesting spectacle. At low-water, extensive flats of fine sand and
shingle are laid bare. From venturing too early on the flood, or too
late on the ebb, there is much danger to vessels. In the former case,
they are sometimes overrun by the tide and stranded in the quicksands ;
and if they resist the fury of the *' bore," the water washes away the
sand from their leeward sides, they roll over before the current, break-
ing their masts, and finally filling with shingle, they are buried in the
same. These dangers are all avoided by good pilots, and persons who
are acquainted with the river seldom meet with accidents.

• The tides rise in the Peticodiac as follows : — At the Bend, common tides,
22 feet 8 inches ; highest tides, 28 feet 8 inches. At Dorchester Island,
common tides, 36 feet ; highest tides, 42 feet. It is three hours flood before
the tide reaches the Bend ; and from rushing along the river to the distance of
twenty miles, it rises higher here above the lowest level of the sea at Grind-
stone Island than it does at Dorchester Island. The difference of level
between Grindstone Island and the Bend may be estimated as follows: —
Common tides, 45 feet 4 inches ; highest tides, 57 feet 4 inches.

ilk

e wheels
16 spray
jage be-
y. The
kes. At
America ;
he small
irbour of
pt'on.
ebecasis,
it a right
ilea, and
ressels of
ships are
ix hours,
3 accom-
;-tides is
vhelming
ffords an
sand and
i, or too
ner case,
cksands ;
away the
break-
ed in the
;ons who

ion tides,
Island,
od before
istance of
it Grind-
of level
oUows : —

NKVV BRUNSWICK.

})1

The Memramcook, Tantamarre, Aulac, and Missiquash arc small
rivers which, like the Peticodiac, pass through very extensive marshes.

The Great Tantamarre Marsh is situated on both sides of the river of
that name. It is about twelve miles long, and, upon an average, four
miles wide, being one of the most extensive collections of alluvium
formed by the sea in America. In the Parishes of Sackville, Dorches-
ter, and Moncton, 4,900 acres of marsh have been rescued from the
sea by dikes and embankments. All the streams emptying themselves
into Shepody and Cum- .'Hand Bays are skirted with alluvial deposits,
which are more productive than any other lands in the country.

At the eastern extremity of the Tantamarre Marsh, a large tract is
occupied by peat, floating bogs, and small lakes. The whole of this
extensive area was once open to the sea ; but, from the vast quantities
of alluvial matter brought inwards by the tides and winds, the mouth
of the estuary has been filled up, and raised several feet above the level
of the lands in the interior, which can now only be reclaimed by open-
ing canals, and allowing the sea to flow oyer them.

It has long been proposed to open a canal between some of these
rivers and Bay Verte or Shediac, the average distance being only fifteen
miles, and several surveys have been made of the different lines pro-
posed. The last exploration and survey of a line of canal to connect
the waters of the Bay of Fundy with those of Northumberland Straits,
in the Gulf of St. Ijawrence, was made by Captain Crawley, R.E.
From the report of that gentleman, it would appear that there is not a
sufficient quantity of water during the summer season to supply a canal
at its summit level. It is also apprehended that the opening of a free
passage for the tides from one side of the peninsula to the other would
be attended with unfavourable consequences ; and the expense of thr
undertaking is estimated to exceed the profit that v/ould arise fron ■;■-
if the work should be completed. The enterprise, therefore, althou. ;i
not abandoned by its advocates, remains stationarj*.

On the north-eastern shores of New Brunswick, a number of small
streams open into Northumberland Straits, between Bay Verte and
Richibucto ; and the Shediac, Cocagne, and Buctouche have excellent
harbours at their mouths.

The Richibucto River has four principal branches, which descend

1: . .V I

^\^:

I.I

^^'f

NEW BllUNSWlCK.

from the uninhabited ». ry to the south. One ot" tlioso branches
approaches witliin three n; . ^ of the Salmon River, flowing in an oppo-
site direction into the Graiid Lalce, the waters of which are discharged
into the St. John. It is navigable twenty-five miles from its mouth,
where there is a safe and convenient harbour.

The Kouehibouguuck River empties itself into the Gulf of St. Law-
rence, about twenty miles southward of Miramichi Bay. It is about
fifty miles Ui length, and its waters are discharged into a lagoon that
forms a gcod harbour for small vessels.

The Miramichi* is the second river in extent and importance of the
Province. Its branches, which are very numerous, drain a vast tract of
wilderness country, and, by being united ..c Jiey approach the sea, they
form a stream of considerable magnitude. Some of its north-western
branches approach the St. John, and almost touch the Nashwaak ;
others reach the lands of the lower Tobique. Three of the north-west
branches spring from a chain of lakes in the upper Tobique country.
Having descended with considerable rapidity from its principal sources,
and traversed the forests of the south-west nearly two hundred miles,
the branches of the Miramichi unite and become navigable for large
ships ; and finally, the river makes its debouchement into a spacious
bay of the same name, in lat. 47° N., and long. 64° 53" W.

The banks of the main stream are settled one hundred miles from the
Bay, and the moUths of some of the principal branches are also thinly
inhabited ; but remote frf)m the larger tributaries, the country is in its
original wilderness state, and millions of acres of land capable of suc-
cessful cultivation are covered by dense forests, and even the fine tracts
of intervale on the borders of the streams to a great extent remain
uncleared.

Miramichi Bay is twenty miles wide at its mouth ; and although the
waters along the coast are shallow, there is a ship channel in the estu-
ary from two to four miles broad, and from five to eight fathoms deep.
The Bay is decorated with seven islands, and the low sandy shores are
inhabited by the descendants of the Acadian French.

; 1,1

I,.

* Miramichi, in the Micmac Indian language, signifies " Happy Retreat."
The savages formerly called this river the Hestigouchesis.

.t'trcat.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Twenty miles above its opening into the Bay, this noble stream
receives the waters of a large branch called the North-west Miramichi,*
whose sources extend to the brandies of the Ncpisiguit farther north.
To its confluence with the north-west bianch the river is navigable for
large ships, and for small craft to a greater distance. Boats and canoes
may ascend the principal streams fur into the interior.

It was on the point of land between the main river and its north-west
tributary, that Monsieur Beaubair established himself in the first settle-
ment of the country, and a great number of the early French inhabit-
ants fell victims to famine and disease in 1758. Along the banks of the
river, there are numerous wharves and landing-places, depots for timber,
&c. ; but the principal business of the country is carried on at Chatham,
Douglas, Newcastle, and Nelson — four small towns situated within a
distance of five miles. The extensive district bordering upon tho
Miramichi and its tributaries has derived its chief importance from the
great quantities of valuable red and white pine that formerly stood upon
its lands ; but in 1825 this part of New Brunswick was visited by a most
awful and calamitous fire that consumed the forests like stubble, and
besides destroying a number of the inhabitants, involved the whole
population in ruin and distress. From the great annual exports also, the
timber is growing scarce, and more difficult to be obtained ; so that the
period is fast approaching when the great number of persons employed
in lumbering will engage in the more permanently profitable occupation
of husbandry.

On the south side of Miramichi Bay, there are two indentations
receiving small rivers, and called Big Bale des Vents and Little Bale
des Vents. -|- Settlements were made at those places by the first French
inhabitants, and they are now rather thickly populated. Neguac, or
Burnt Church River, is a small stream opening into a lagoon on the
opposite side of the Bay. It is still a resort of the Indians, who formerly
assembled there in great numbers to hold councils preparatory to their
sanguinary attacks upon the European settlers.

• Minaqua of the Indians.

t Like many of the old Indian and French words, these two names have
been strangely corrupted by the inhabitants, wlio now call the harbours " Big
Betty Wind" and " Little Betty Wind."

[■■.

■<

■UH

i, 1r

ii|

NEW BRUNSWICK.

From the entrance of the Miramichi, the coast extends in a north-east
direction. A part of the County of Gloucester is situated on a cape that
extends into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, having Miramichi Bay on one
side, and Bay Chaleurson the other. This cape has several large islands
at its northern extremity, and is penetrated by a number of small rivers,
bays, and inlets. The Taboosintac,* Tracadie, Pokemouchc, and Cara-
quette arc the largest rivers along this part of the coast : the two former
streams open into lagoons formed by bars of sand and shingle, and the
two latter into bays where there are good harbours.

The Nepisiguit descends from a number of lakes situated near the
head waters of the Tobique, from which it is separated by a short port-
age. These lakes are at the bases of some of the highest mountains in
the Province, and in an elevated tract of country. The river is about
one hundred miles in length, and throughout its whole course runs
swiftly, being frequently broken by falls and rapids. Its upper part
winds its way between perpendicular cliffs and through a mountainous
wilderness. Its principal branches are Silver River, Lascoodich, Par-
booktich, and Pabineau.

About twenty miles above the mouth of the Nepisiguit, the river
presents a magnificent cascade. The bed of the stream is granite, which,
at the Falls, forms a perpendicular cliff one hundred and forty feet high.
Over this precipice the water descends by four leaps or steps, and comes
thundering down wrapped in clouds of spray.

Next to the Grand Fall of the St. John, it is the greatest cataract in the
Province, and its height exceeds any waterfall in New Brunswick.
Below the cataract, the stream glides through a narrow channel, and be-
tween high cliffs. Above its ddbouchement intoBathurst Harbour, it again
rolls over a bed of large granitic boulders, which render the river unna-
vigable, except for canoes and single pieces of timber.

A great many minor streams empty themselves into the Bay Chaleurs,
on the coast between Bathurst and the Restigouche ; but none of Ihem
are navigable to any distance, and they require no particular description.

La Bale des Chaleurs, now called Bay Chaleurs,f which terminates in

• " The place wliere two reside" (Indian).

f This bay was known to the Micmac tribe of Indians as Eckeetan Ne-
machii, which signifies "a sea offish."

"ii!*i

lii

T -

NEW BRUNSWICK.

lorth-east
cape that
ly on one
ge islands
all rivers,
and Caro-
wo former
, and the

I near the
hort port-
untains in
.T is about
lurse runs
upper part
)untainous
idich, Par-

the river
ite, which,

feet high,
and comes

jract in the
(runswick.
;1, and be-
ar, it again
iver unna-

Chaleurs,
le of them
escription.
minates in

teetan Ne-

the Restigouche RIvor, is a large arm of the sea, extending in a westerly
direction from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, being one hundred miles long,
and between Point Miscou and Cupc Despair twenty-five miles broad.
On the north or Ciaspu side of the Bay, the coast is bold ; and a few
miles from the shore, the country rises into lofty mountains ; while on
the New IJrunswitk side, the land ascends gradually from the border of
the sea to the mountain range at the sources of the Tobique, Nepisiguit,
and Upsalquitch Rivers, already described. This bay was visited by
Jacques Cartier in 1534, previous to his entering the St. Lawrence ; and
from the great heat of the weather at the time of that navigator'u voyoge,
he called it La Bale des Chaleurs, or Bay of Heats. It was previously
known to the Spaniards. It is a beautiful sheet of water, surrounded by
harbours, and abounding in all kinds of fish, notwithstanding in winter
its whole surface is covered with a crystal garment of ice.

The principal sources of the Restigouche are situated in a mountain-
ous range that extends through the whole District of Gaspe. The course
of the river, from its mouth to the distance of sixty miles, ascending, is
to the south-west ; it then turns at a right angle to the north-west.
Extending towards the St. Lawrence, one of its branches reaches to
within a short distance of the Metis Lake ; and another approaches
Lake Tamisquata, on the portage between the St. John and Quebec.
Another large branch runs from the south-west, and nearly meets the
streams that flow into the St. John. The whole length of the river,
along its several courses, is estimated to be two hundred miles. The
Upsalquitch, a large tributary, descends from the south, where it meets
the heads of the Tobique and Nepisiguit.

The Bay Chaleurs, having extended deeply into the country, finally
terminates in this fine river, which opens a wide district to all the
advantages of trade and internal communication. The banks of the
Restigouche are not settled more than thirty miles above its mouth.
The upper part of the noble stream, and all its branches, pass through
a dense wilderness, and the whole interior of the country is unin-
habitable.

It was up to that branch of the Alleghanies which extends into the
District of Gaspe that the Americans laid their claims, before the ques-
tion of disputed territory was settled by Lord Ashburton ; and until

-1

NKW BRUNSWICK.

.Mi

i 'r !

that period, the Restigouche had formed a temporary boundary between
New Brunswick and Canada. Since the termination of that dispute,
another of less importance has arisen respecting the boundary between
the two Provinces. It is evident that the range of mountains sepa-
rating the rivers that flow into the St. Lawrence from those that fall
into the Bay Chaleurs, the Restigouche, and the St. John, would form
the best divisional line between New Brunswick and Canada. Such a
line would give to each Province all the rivers that flow and open into
their respective districts ; it would agree with the physical geography
of the country, and accord with the ancient limits of each Colony, until
the whole of the Provinces should be united.

The Restigouche* and its branches pass through a tract of country
differing in its principal features from any other part of New Brunswick.
This division of the Province is alpine in its scenery, being varied with
lofty hills and deep valleys. Mountain behind mountain rises in the
distance, and the horizon is indented with lofty eminences of surpassing
grandeur. It is only along the shores of New Brunswick and Gaspe
that any settlements have been made : a short distance from the coast
on each side of the Bay Chaleurs, the country remains unexplored and
unknown. It nevertheless appears, from the accounts given by the
Indian hunters, that even among those mountains there are fine table-
lands and alluviums capable of cultivation.

The town of Dalhousie is situated on the south side of the mouth of
the Restigouche, which is three miles wide. The harbour is very
spacious, and sufficiently deep to float the largest ships of the navy.
The mountainous character of the country on the opposite side of the
river — the wide bay above the town, terminating in the deep valley of
the Restigouche, render the scenery very bold and picturesque.

Campbelltown is situated sixteen miles above Dalhousie. Here the
lands on each side of the river are high, and frequently broken and
rocky. There is, nevertheless, a narrow flat of good soil along the
edge of the river, which still continues wide, and is navigable for the
largest class of ships. The lands on tl.e Gaspe side of the Restigouche
are high and broken. The river is nevertheless skirted with a few level

ifi<

* Restigouche, — Big River of the Indians.

>>'*'■>

NKNV 1! RUNS WICK.

!)"

letween
lispute,
)etween
s sepa-
that fall
lid form
Such a
pen into
;ograpliy
ny, until

' country
unswick.
iried with
}es in the
iurpassing
md Gaspe
the coast
ilored and
en by the
fine table -

mouth of

|ir is very

the navy.

ide of the

valley of

Here the
roken and
along the
ble for the
estigouche
a few level

tracts and small collections of alluvium, the largest of which is Mission
Point, the former residence of the Missionary to the Micmac Indians.
Three miles above this place is Point au Bourdo, the site of the ancient
town of Petite Rochelle, destroyed by the fleet under the command of
Captain Byron in 1760.

The tide flows about six miles above Campbellton, where the river
becomes narrow, and is studded with upwards of twenty small islands.
The current is now rapid, and the water remarkably limpid.

The Flat Lands are ten miles above Carapbelltown. At this place the
settlement on the river may be said to terminate, notwithstanding there
are a few families scattered along the banks of the stream still higher
up. The Flat Lands are 500 acres of excellent terraced intervale.
Two miles above, a large stream enters the Restigouche, called the
Matapediac. It takes its rise from lakes on the St. Lawrence side of
Gaspe, and descends through a chain of mountains, and between per-
pendicular cliff's of rock ; its principal branches are the Us-men-ta-
qua-gum, Ca-soups-coult, and Me-la-ga-na-took.*

Tow-boats may be drawn up the Matapediac. There is but little
intervale on the sides of the stream, and the whole district is broken by
high hills and deep ravines.

Six miles above the mouth of the Matapediac, the Upsalquitch enters
the Restigouche from the New Brunswick side. It proceeds from the
mountains at the head of the Tobique and Nepisiguit, being a very
rapid stream, with numerous branches. Many of its tributaries als>o
run between perpendicular cliffs, which greatly increase the danger
and difficulty of procuring the pine timber still remaining along its
borders.

The Patapediac is a stream of considerable size. It descends from
the north-west, and lands in the vicinity of Metis Lake. The same
general features that have been described prevail upwards to the
Pet-tam-kedge-wee, fifty miles above the mouth of the Upsalquitch.
The lands here are less mountainous, and fit for cultivation. The
stream which has generally been understood to be the Restigouche,

* The native sav^ages* frequently named rivers after celebrated Chiefs and
other individuals.

KEW BRUNSWICK.

and is so called by the English inhabitants, is only a branch of the
main river. The main river on some maps is denominated the Cadam-
kiswa, and the lumbermen give it the appellation of Tom Kedgewick ;
but the original Indian name is Peetamkedgewee ; and the south-
westerly branch of the river, above its junction with the larger stream,
is called by the Micmacs, A-waan-jeet. The former stream is one-
third larger than the latter, and is eighty yards wide where it meets its
chief tributary.

The distance from the mouth of Grand River, emptying itself into the
St. John at Madawasca, along the Awaanjeet, or south-west branch of
the Restigouche, to its debouchement, is one hundred and fifty miles.
The Restigouche and its south-west tributary are navigable for tow-
boats and rafts of timber one hundred and fifty miles ; the Matapediac,
fifty miles ; and the Upsalquitch, seventy miles. All these streams are
situated in an uninhabited and unexplored country ; and when the ex-
tent and resources of this part of New Brunswick are considered, it
may appear surprising that it has so long remained in its present state :
but it can never be supposed that any district will ever be settled while
its natural advantages and the nature of its soil remain unknown.

The principal lakes of New Brunswick have been already noticed.
Most frequently those lakes are situated at the sources of the rivers,
and, therefore, they greatly extend the facilities of internal communi-
cation. The numerous streams flowing in all directions through the
Province are separated from each other by portages varying only from
one to four miles in length. Every township has its river ; and so ex-
tensively is the country irrigated, that there is scarcely a half square
mile that has not its brook or rivulet. Even the highest tracts abound
in springs ; and the whole face of the country is abundantly supplied
with water, necessary for its animals and plants, and which, by being
collected into rivers, greatly promotes the transportation of its produc-
tions, and affords power to carry machinery.

The advantages thus bountifully supplied by nature were well known
to the aborigines, and the present Indians still follow the old portage
trails of their more numerous ancestors. With their light barks, they
can ascend the streams remote from the sea to their sources, whence
they carry their canoes upon their shoulders to the tributaries descend-

NEW BRUNSWICK.

anch of the
the Cadam-
Kedgewick ;
the south-
irger stream,
earn is one-
i it meets its

tself into the

jst branch of

, fifty miles.

ble for tow-

Matapediac,

! streams are

vhen the ex-

onsidered, it

resent state :

settled while

tnown.

ady noticed.

f the rivers,

communi-

through the

» only from

and so ex-

half square

acts abound

tly supplied

h, by being

its produc-

well known
old portage
barks, they
ces, whence
es descend-

ing to other districts ; and the facilities with which such passages are
made are truly remarkable. From the St. John, the Melicetes will
quickly cross the country to the St. Lawrence, Restigouche, and Bay
Chaleurs, or to the Penobscot and Kennebec. Their skill in making
these quick and sudden movements rendered them dangerous enemies
to the early inhabitants, thousands of whom were surprised and cut off
while they supposed themselves in safety. The same river channels
that aided the savages in their sanguinary enterprises, now afford pas-
sage to the native pine, or their waters turn saw-mills that prepare
deals for the British market ; and they will continue to be highly im-
portant to the agricultural and manufacturing industry of the country.

The effects of changes of level in the bed of the St. John and other
rivers of New Brunswick are seen in the terraces along their borders.
These terraces are admirably displayed at Woodstock, and between that
place and the Grand Falls. We here ascend from the stream by suc-
cessive steps, and see the ancient shores of the river rise in regular
order by a series of steep embankments, like the steps of a stairway.
The Miramichi, Restigouche, and other streams, also have their terraced
alluvial borders, which, from the regularity of their embankments, have
been mistaken for ancient Indian fortifications. They are from six to
twenty feet in height, and always consist of beds of gravel or alluvium.

The channels of the St. John and other river of New Brunswick
have had their beds excavated and lowered by powerful vernal and
autumnal currents. In the freshets of spring, the broken ice, for many
miles, will move forward until its progress is arrested by projecting
banks, or narrowness and shallowness of the stream ; an ice-barrier is
formed across the river, and the country above is immediately inun-
dated. These barriers, called " ice-jams," are sometimes very alarming
in their consequences. The ice, urged along by the current, and col-
lected in enormous masses, grinds against the bottom and sides of the
river ; the earth trembles beneath the burden, and the pent-up water
extends far and wide, not unfrequently sweeping away cattle, buildings,
and everything within its reach ; logs, trees, and the rubbish of the
shores are also borne along, and aid in forming the obstruction. The
alarmed inhabitants of the intervales fly to the high grounds in canoes,
whence they witness the destruction of their cattle and buildings. But

ll2

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100

NEW BllUNSWiCK.

at length the jam breaks, the barrier gives way, and the flood rushes
along the valley in a mighty wave, overflowing the lands which during the
summer months were covered with a luxuriant vegetation. At the
sites where these obstructions take place, the channel of the river is
frequently deepened, and great changes are produced in the shoals and
rapiJs below. Large masses of rock, detached by the frost, are fre-
quently transported down the stream ; acres of intervale are torn away,
and the whole aspect of the river is greatly modified. Such ice-floods
are common to all the large rivers of the northern part of the American
Continent ; and, with the constant wearing down by the currents,
whereby lakes are sometimes drained, they account for the changes of
level in the streams, and consequently for the forming of terraces along
their margins.

At the moutlis of all the rivers emptying into Chignecto Bay, there
are extensive collections of alluvial matter, called salt marshes. As
these deposits are chiefly made by the operations of marine currents,
they are only found in great quantities in situations where there is a
high elevation of the tides, and where those currents are violent. The
tides in the estuary of Cumberland Basin rise from fifty to sixty feet,
and every flood brings into the river-channels great quantities of alluvial
matter, which is derived from the soft rocks along the coast. Clayey
sediment is swept into the rivers by every flood ; before the water re-
cedes, it falls, and the spring-tides overspread the highest marshes with
a fine alluvial covering

The Tantamarre Marsh is stated to contain upwards of 25,000 acres ;
of that quantity about 5,000 acres have been rescued from the sea by
dikes and embankments, and called Diked Marsh. All Mie streams
flowing into Cumberland Basin are skirted at their mouths with these
rich alluviums, which afford excellent crops of hay and wheat. Large
trees of different kinds, collections of shells and bones of fish, are found
buried at different depths in these marshes. The vegetable productions
have evidently been drifted, and the marine animals have been enve-
loped by the muddy water. The rapidity with which the alluvium
collects is proved by the discovery of pieces of cord-wood cut by the
French Acadians in the early settlement of the country. Indian har-
poons, made of stone, and other relics of the aborigines, have been
found ten feet below the surface.

I) I

t ,

NEW lUlUNSWICK.

101

i rushes
ring the

At the
( river is
oals and

are fre-
•n away,
je-floods
imerican
currents,
langes of
;es along

ay, there
bes. As
currents,
there is a
nt. The
ixty feet,
f alluvial
Clayey
water re-
shes with

OO acres ;
\e sea by
; streams
ith these
t. Large
are found
oductions
;en enve-
alluviufn
ut by the
dian har-
ave been

In the great marsh of the County of Westmoreland there are layers
of stumps of trees standing in their natural positions, and situated above
the alluvium in a manner that proves Jie fact of their having from time
to time been buried and succeeded by new growths. These circum-
stances only occur near the margin of the upland, where vegetables
of the higher ground have been driven back by the slow but certain
increase in the elevation of the tide.

The whole of the southern coast of the Province, from the River St.
Croix to the entrance of Chignecto Bay, is bold and rocky ; it is,
nevertheless, indented by a number of fine harbours, and small deep
bays, in which the largest ships may ride in safety. The mouth of the
St. Croix, Chamcook Bay, and L'Etang are spacious basins. Beaver
Harbour is also sufficiently capacious to contain a large fleet. Mace's
Bay is unsafe in a gale from the south-west, and on its eastern side the
water is shallow. Dipper Harbours are convenient openings for vessels
of medium tonnage. Musquash Harbour is spacious, and safe in gales
from every point of the compass. The Harbour of St. John has been
noticed in the description of the river of that name. Between the
estuary of the St. John and Shepody Bay, there are no harbours for
ships, and but few inlets where small vessels can be secure in unfavour-
able weather. At the mouths of the Peticodiac and Memramcook
Rivers there are fine harbours, and large ships may ascend the former
stream on the flood-tide to the distance of twenty miles : the numerous
small creeks and coves along the coast render it extremely well adapted
for shore-fishing.

Passamaquoddy Bay is studded with islands of various dimensions.
Grand Manan is situated about twelve miles south of Campo Bello and
West Quoddy on the American side of the line ; it is twenty-five miles
long, and upon an average five miles in breadth. The north-west side
of the island is uninhabited, and terminates in lofty headlands : it pre-
sents a bold front of overhanging cliffs and lofty mural precipices of
trap-rock. Between the main land and the island there is a very strong
current on the ebb and flood-tide. When the wind and the tide are
opposed to each other, a heavy sea is soon produced, which, with the
influence of the currents, is constantly undermining the rocks, and they
frequently fall in vast masses into the sea. The south side of the island

■I '.■

•J

• "\ ■

W- ■

10J3

NEW BRUNSWICK.

'.<> IV,

:•!

is low and level. Fi8hing has been the principal employment of the
inhabitants, who have not until very recently directed their attention to
agriculture. Along the south side of the main island there are a num-
ber of small islands which afford shelter for vessels at all times. Grand
Manan is a very valuable fishing station ; but, from being exposed to
the constant aggressions of the American fishermen, its prosperity has
been greatly retarded.*

Campo Bello Island is upwards of eight miles long, and two miles in
breadth ; and is valuable on account of its harbours, fisheries, and
timber.

Deer Island is twelve miles long, and about three in breadth. Its
south side is sheltered by a number of smaller islands, and there are
numerous harbours for small vessels and boats. The inhabitants are
employed in fishing along the shores, and in small crafl that frequent
the coasts and bays. Jouct's Island, a custom-house station, contains
only about four acres of land, and is within two hundred yards of the
American shore. L'Etang, White, Spruce, Green, Cherry, and Casco
Bay are also small islands ; besides these, there are others that still
remain uninhabited.

During the summer season, Passamaquoddy Bay is almost covered
with fishing-boats ; of which several hundreds are sometimes huddled
together over shoals of cod, haddock, or pollock, common in these
waters.

The whole north-eastern coast of New Brunswick, where it is bounded
by Northumberland Straits, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the Bay
Chaleurs, is low, and the shore waters are comparatively shallow. The
currents and waves have thrown up narrow banks of sand and shingle,
and formed shoals at the mouths of almost all the principal streams.
Between the sandbanks raised above the sea and the main land, there
are lagoons with open channels, which receive the rivers and afford
shelter to small vessels.

Bay Verte was much frequented by French vessels in the first settle-

• The number of American vessels fishing within three miles of the island,
at certain seasons of the year, has been estimated at 500 ; while of British
bottoms there are only about 100.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

103

ment of the country. It affords safe anchorage, except during a south-
east gale, and there is not sufficient water for large vessels at the ex-
tremity of the inlet : the latter circumstance has been one of the objec-
tions to opening a canal into it from the head of Cumberland Basin.

The Harbour of Shediac is safe and convenient ; its channel being
sufficiently deep to admit large ships at high-water. At its mouth there
are two pretty islands. On the smallest of these, there are the remains
of an ancient French fort, which is supposed to have been erected by
the Acadians immediately after the conquest of Quebec by General
Wolfe.

Cocagne Harbour has ten feet water upon the bar at its mouth at low-
water, and fourteen feet at high-water. At spring-tides these depths are
increased about two feet. At these places the common tides rise only
four feet, and the time and duration of high-water are much influenced
by the winds in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

The entrance to the Buctouche is between two bars of shingle, and
the depth of the water rather exceeds that of the Cocagne. A number
of square-rigged vessels are loaded at this place annually for Great
Britain, and a ship of 1,000 tons was built on the banks of the river
emptying into the harbour. The tide flows inland twelve miles.

The Harbour of Richibucto, at the mouth of the river of the same
name, is twenty miles farther north. It is a spacious haven, with six
and seven fathoms of water. The entrance is between two long bars of
sand, with a depth of eighteen feet at high-water.

The next, and one of the most important harbours on the coast, is
Miramichi Bay and River. The safest entrance to the harbour is
between a shoal of sand and shingle, and Point Escuminac, between
which the distance is three miles, with five to seven fathoms water.
This passage opens into a fine basin twelve miles long and eight miles
broad, and terminates in the river already described, which is also
navigable for the largest class of vessels upwards of twenty miles. The
towns and villages situated on the sides of the bay and river render the
scenery lively and interesting, and the great exports of timber to the
British market employ a great numbe; of fine ships.

The lagoons of Taboosintac and Tracadie, and the inlet of Pock-
mouche, are safe retreats for vessels of moderate tonnage. The splendid

i I

1:.

104

NEW miuNswicK.

r:.^

I WM

Harbour of Shippegan is formed by Shippegan Island on one side, and
the main land and Poksudie Island on the other. It lias from five to
seven fathoms water, and will admit the largest ships of the navy. Its
entrance is from the Bay Chaleurs ; the passage into the Gulf has only
six or seven feet of water. Little Shippegan Harbour is a small bay
between Miscou and Shippegan Islands; tho 'hannei is two miles wide,
with four fathoms of water.

Caraquette Harbour has a good entrance, between Poksudie and
Caraquette Islands. From each of these islands large shoals extend
into the Bay ; but between them there is a safe channel of four and
five fathoms.

The Harbour of Bathurst is about forty-five miles westward of Cara-
quette. Its entrance between Alston and Carron Points is about three
hundred yards : outside of thoije points, a bar of sand reduces the depth
of the water to fifteen feet. Large vessels take in parts of their cargoes
of timber on the Bay side of the bar, where there is plenty of water and
good anchorage. The basin of the harbour is three miles long, two
miles wide, and perfectly sheltered from all winds.

"Westward of this port, the Bay Chaleurs extends eighty miles, hav-
ing a medium breadth of twenty miles . it may of itself be considered
an immense haven, without a rock or a shoal to obstruct its navigation.
The coast on the New Brunswick side meets the shore with a low bor~
der ; but on the opposite coast of Gaspe, there are high rocky cliffs and
abrupt precipices fronting the Bay. At a short distance from the shores,
the country rises into lofty eminences, separated by deep ravines and
narrow gorges, through which mountain torrents descend. The Bay, at
its remotest point, forms the Harbour and receives the River llesti-
gouche, already described. There arc a number of small bays, lagoons,
and inlets, that do not require any particular description, notwithstand-
ing they are highly important in the prosecution of the inshore fisheries.
In all the bays, harbours, and rivers, fish of various kinds are abundant,
and vast quantities are taken and shipped annually by the inhabitants
scattered along the shores : but a more extended notice of the fisheries
is reserved for another chapter.

The principal islands on the coast are situated on the south side of
the mtrauce of tho Bay Chaleurs. Miscou Island is twenty miles in

NEW liJlUNSWICK.

10.0

circumference, and its northern point is the landmark for vessels bound
to Bathurst and the Rcstigouche. It was occupied by the French at an
early period, and the remains of their former fishing establishments arc
yet to be seen. It is still the resort of British and American fishing
craft ; and notwithstanding the plain language of the treaty which j)re-
cludes the latter from the fisheries of the shore, their crews frequently
erect flakes and cure whole cargoes of fish caught within the lines, and
upon British ground.

Shippegan is a low, sandy island, twenty miles in length. On its
west side there are two settlements of Acadian French — a people who
form almost the entire population of this part of Gloucester. Poksudie
and Caraquettc Islands are small insula; between Shippegan and the
main land.

From the great extent of the coasts, bays, and rivers of New Bruns-
wick, fishery should naturally form an important division of labour ,
but it is only at a few places where that branch of industry has been
actively pursued. The fishing establishments of Shippegan have been
successful ; and there are many other situations, both on the Bay of
Fundy and Bay Chaleurs sides of New Brunswick, where that kind of
enterprise would be bountifully rewarded.

'4.' ..■

> I

: <■ i

«^

! 9

CHAPTER V.

liATIVE INDIANS OF NEW BKUNStVICK.

There has been great diversity of opinion respecting the origin of the
aboriginal inhabitants of America. Bhimenbach viewed the physical
character of the American Indians as corresponding in some degree
with that of the Mongul race, who inhabited that part of Asia which
approaches nearest to the American Continent ; and there are many
reasons for entertaining the opinion that this vast territory was peopled
by emigrants from the Old World. It has been maintained by Mr.
Jones, that the native tribes of this quarter of the globe have descended
from the Tyrians and ancient Israelites. That writer contends that the
former established themselves upon the southern part of the continent
'.mmediately after the conquest of Alexander of Macedon, in the year
332 before the birth of Our Saviour. In proof of the Jewish origin of
the Northern tribes, he states that " the Northern aborigines have a tra-
ditional knowledge of the Deluge, and the ' dove of peace,* which to
them, under the name of ' medicine ' or ' mystery bird,' is sacred from
the aiTow of the hunter. They have their ark of covenant, in which is
deposited some mystery seen only by the priests of the tribe. It is
said to be a shell, and supposed to give out oracular sounds. This is
an analogy to the book of the law placed in the ark of the covenant by
Moses preceding his death on Mount Nebo^the oracular wisdom of
which has guided civilisation to this day. The ark is never suffered to
touch the earth, but is always raised on a stand of wood or stone : it is
invariably carried by a tribe when they march to battle ; a similitude
is here to Joshua at the siege of Jericho. When it is in their peaceful
encampment, it is surrounded by twelve stones, indicative of the origi-
nal number of the tribes of their ancestors. This is strictly in analogy

iffi

NEW BRUNSWICK.

107

with the twelve statues (probably rude blocks of stone) erected by
Moses around the altar of the covenant to personify the twelve tribes
of Israel. Joshua also, after the passage of Jordan, erected twelve
stones in his encampment at Gilgal, and the same number in the river
at the place of passage. They select their ' medicine men ' (i. e. priests
or prophets) from among a portion of the tribe not warriors : here is a
custom of the Lcvites, or descendants of Aaron, being in the sacred
office of the priesthood, for with the Israelites they were not to be taken
from the ranks of the soldiery. These aborigines • dwell in booths,'
as when • brought out of the land of Egypt,* for they are still wanderers
(Lev. xiii.) They offer a flesh or burnt oifering from the chace, which
is first cast into the flames before a starving family may eat. They
have their corn and harvest feasts, also one in observance of every new
moon, another in festivity of the first fruits, and the great feast in
direct analogy with the Hebrew Passover, even to the blood being
stained upon the posts and lintels, and the mingling of the most bitter
herbs : then their fastings and purifications are practised with the great-
est severity."* The analogy between the Israelites and their supposed
descendants might be carried much farther ; but as the comparison
belongs not to the object of the present work, the inquiry is assigned
to others.

From whatever origin the natives of America may have sprung, they
were at the time of their being discovered nearly as far advanced to-
wards civilisation as the Europeans were at the early periods of their
history. Among them were warriors, statesmen, orators and priests,
and communities bound together by principles of equity, and customs
that were equivalent to laws.

When Canada was first discovered by Europeans, it was found occu-
pied by three Indian nations, — the Hurons, the Algonquins, and the
Iroquois. The first of these great tribes held the northern bank of the
St. Lawrence. The country of the Hurons joined that of the Algon-
quins, and extended to Lake Huron. The Iroquois claimed a vast
tract of land on the southern side of the St. Lawrence. According to
a map published by L'Esearbot in 1609, the whole of Nova Scotia was

• History of America, by George Jones. Longman & Co., London.

Mir \\

rill

■II

fiW

i' 1

^: .

I^Hu'

• H'* 1

, )«i4, HI',!

1 ' '
i

108

NKW nilUNSWICK.

occupied by the Souriquois (Iroquois)'; and the ancient French maps
of the country all agree in giving a tribe called the Ktcliemins posseH-
sion of the southern side of New IJrunswick. According to Haron La
lloutun, the Indian tribes of ancient Acadia were the Abcnekia (Men
of the East), Micmacs, Canabas, Malingans, Opcnagas, Socokes, and
Etchemins. By other writers, those tribes were called Algonquins.
From the peculiar habits and patriarchal form of government of the
North American Indians, new tribes were frequently formed ; and the
lesser tribes or families, although bound to some greater community,
received distinct names from the early voyageura.

At the present time, there are the renmants of two tribes in New
IJrunswick, — the Micmacs and the Melicetes, or Morrisetes. The
former are found in a part of the District of Oaspe, on the whole coast
from the Restigouche to Bay Verte, and on the entire surface of Nova
Scotia. The latter reside chiefly along the valley of the St. .lohn, on
the banks of the St. Croix, and the country westward, where liiey are
met by the Penobscots of the United States. The Micmacs speak a
dialect of the Iroquois (or language of the Six Nations), IL.ron8, and
other tribes of the North : but the Melicetes, from being descended
from the Delaware stock, speak a dialect of that people which is scarcely
understood by the descendants of the Iroquois.

The physical characteristics of those people are not dissimilar. They
all have the same copper colour, the straight coarse black hair, hazel
eyes, high cheek-bones, scanty b( ard, and erect carriage, common to
all the Northern tribes. Some of the men are upwards of six feet in
height, and remarkable for suppleness, activity, and great powers of
endurance, rather than for strength. Individuals among them will
travel seventy miles in a day without any apparent fatigue. Such feats
are often performed under heavy burdens, and without any kind of
food. Bears, deer, moose, and other wild animals are sometimes pur-
sued by them and overtaken. The skill and agility they display in
ascending and descending the dangerous rapids on many of the rivers,
in their canoes, has never been attained by Europeans ; and the quick-
ness of their perceptions in discovering the trails and footsteps, and
even the scent, of men and animals, is truly surprising.

Previous to the arrival of the Europeans in the country, the clothing

NKW UKUNbWICK.

loy

of the Indian consisted of a clonk. To n «tronf^ girdle or belt around
the waist were suspended two aprons, one before and the other behind,
which were used as pockets. A long stocking was sewed around the
leg from the middle of the thigh to the ancle ; and the whole foot was
covered with a piece of soft leather ingeniously stitched up behind, and
sewed to a top piece across the instep. This kind of shoe, called the
mocassin, is light and agreeable, and better adapted for travelling in
the forests and in snow than any other. These simple articles of dress
were made of the skins of wild animals. The dress of the female dif-
fered but little from that of tlie male, cxeept that the apron extended
down below the knees. Since the introduction of European stull's,
these garments arc made of cloth. The mocassin is still made of tanned
or untanned leather.

All the hair was cut off or pulled out, except a tuft on the crown of
tlie head, which was ornamented with feathers, pieces of bone, and
shells. The hair of the females was permitted to grow, and flowed
around their shoulders, decorated with rude trinkets. It does not
appear that the Micmacs were much attached to the custom of tattooing ;
although the chiefs sometimes recorded in their skins, by hieroglyphic
figures, certain victories, and other events. The warrior, in preparing
for battle, painted on his body the most frightful forms ; the face was
coloured with stripes of red and black, in such a manner as to offer to
his foes the most terrific expression of countenance, and his motions
were those of menace and defiance. From their resemblance to war,
hunting and trapping were the favourite employments. Every hunting
occasion was preceded by fastings, dreamings, and superstitious cere-
monies ; and the destruction of droves of wild animals was celebrated
with enthusiastic joy. The great warmth and beauty of the skin of the
beaver gave that animal a share in their affections ; and in their songs,
the knowledge, industry, and usefulness of that harmless creature were
extolled. Upon the females devolved all domestic duties : they erected
the huts or wigwams, cultivated the ground, made canoes, caught fish,
and provided for their offspring. They were wives and servants to the
lords of the forest. This custom prevails, in some degree, to the pre-
sent day; and it is no uncommon thing to see a squaw bent down
beneath a heavy burden, and her stately lord marching before her with

il-

110

NEW BRUNSWICK.

nothing but a gun at his shoulder. The introduction of civilisation
has greatly ameliorated the condition of the native female.

Near the villages, maize, or Indian com, and sometimes pulse, were
cultivated in small patches. From the former, they obtained a scanty
allowance of bread kind : the maize was pounded and boiled, or made
into a kind of cake, and eaten with dried venison.

From the migratory disposition of these people, they seldom erect
comfortable habitations. Their huts, called wigtoams, consist of a ring
of poles, set up from the ground and covered with the bark of trees,
except at the top, which is left open to allow the smoke to escape :
when completed, the whole fabric resembles a cone resting upon its
base. A village of these singular dwellings, situated on the bank of a
river, and sheltered beneath a grove of lofty trees, is almost the climax
of American scenery.

The Indians display more skill and workmanship upon their canoes
than on any other fabric. The frame consists of the strongest and
lightest kinds of wood, bent in their hoops to the approved model : over
this is laid the entire bark of a large white birch tree, which is often
found of sufficient size to cover the whole exterior of the vessel, and
being cut and fitted to the framework, is finally sewed at the ends and
to the gunwale with the tough roots of the spruce ; the bars, or cross-
pieces, are also sewed in. These vessels are not only well adapted for
shallow and rapid streams, but, from their lightness and buoyancy, they
are safe amidst the stormy waves and breakers. A.n Indian will trans-
port from river to river on his back a canoe capable of carrying ten
persons in safety, together with a paddle, a gun, a hatchet, blanket,
and kettle.

I'he model of the canoe of the Melicete differs from that of the Mic-
mac. It is somewhat in the style of an English barque, and has a very
graceful appearance upon the water ; but the canoe of the Micmac id
rather the safer vessel in an open sea in stormy weather.

The culinary utensils of the aborigines consisted of pots made of
chlorite and other kinds of soft stone, and a few vessels of baked clay.
Pipes curiouily carved were also made of the same materials. Their
axes were hard stones ground sharp ; around the middle was bent a
piece of wood which served for a handle. They also had chisels,

: civilisation

•

pulse, were
led a scanty
led, or made

eldom erect
ist of a ring
irk of trees,
e to escape :
ing upon its
le bank of a
t the climax

their canoes
Tongest and
model : over
lich is often
vessel, and
he ends and
rs, or cross-
adapted for
)yancy, they
1 will trans-
carrying ten
et, blanket,

of the Mic-
1 has a very
e Micmac iii

ts made of
baked clay,
als. Their
was bent a
lad chisels.

f.-

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Ill

gouges, and gimlets of stone. Their knives, points of arrows, spears,
&c. were frequently made of jasper, agate, and homstone. The instru-
ments employed in warfare were also those of the chace, and upon them
they bestowed much labour.

Those relics are found in the graves of these people, with whom it
was a custom to bury with the deceased all the goods he possessed at
the time of his death. Notwithstanding their passionate love of orna-
ment, the Indians often bestowed their beads, rings, bracelets, and other
showy appendages to decorate the dead, whose remains are now found
in the earth covered with the gaudy trinkets of their survivors.

The social condition of these people was like that of the Canadian
tribes. The independence of every individual to do whatever he pleased
was maintained as a right, and that principle has not been weakened
by their intercourse with European communities. They will enter the
dwellings of the rich and sit at the tables of persons of rank with an
air of dignity and self-possession, and their powers of imitation remove
every kind of awkwardness. Their attachment to their tribe, and their
patriotism for its honour and welfare, were not exceeded by the Greeks
or Romans. They still maintain that the " Great Spirit" has permitted
the "pale faces" to come upon their grounds to kill their game, catch
their fish, and cut down their trees ; but they are the lords of the soil,
and the rightful owners of the water, the land, and the sky.

Every political circumstance calls forth the powers of oratory, and
every important act of diplomacy is accompanied by a speech, or "great
talk." On every emergency a council of the tribe is called, when the
aged and wise hold long deliberations for the public weal. In their
diplomatic discourses, each proposition is prefaced by the delivery of a
wampum belt, which is made to represent the different parts of the
treaty, and preserved as a record of the conference. The proposals of
the orator are accompanied by appropriate actions. ** If he threatens
war, he wildly brandishes the tomahawk ; if he solicits alliance, he
twines his arms closely with the chiefs he addresses ; and if he invites
friendly intercourse, he assumes all the attitudes of one who is forming
a road in the Indian manner, by cutting down the trees, clearing them
away, and carefully removing the leaves and branches." •

• Histovical Account of British America, by Hugh Murray, vol. i. p. G8, 69.

- 1 '' •

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112

InKW Bl'iUNSWICK.

The acuteness of the Indian is almost supernatural ; he can follow
an animal by indications imperceptible even to an American back-
woodsman. His powers of observation are so perfect, that he can trace
on a piece of bark, with a bit of charcoal, the geography of the country
he has traversed ; and he will take a direct course to a place hundreds
of miles distant, without the aid of a compass.

It has been supposed by some writers that the savage tribes of
North America had no means of recording events. The wampum belt
was generally applied to the different parts of a speech, or the different
articles of a treaty ; and on great occasions, when these belts were
brought forth, individuals were found who, from memory or tradition,
could explain each section of the precious girdle : but, besides this
mode of record, the Micmacs and Melicetes had pictorial representa-
tions of certain events, and communicated information through the
medium of hieroglyphics. Rocks and trees in conspicuous situations
have had figures cut or engraved upon them, whi'^h convey to the
Indian traveller in concise terms the knowledge necessary for his safety
and comfort. During his geological survey of the Province, the Writer,
with two companions and three Indians, were much embarrassed in
not being able to discover in the wilderness an old Indian portage be-
tween the head waters of the St. Croix and Eel River Lake. From
this difficulty they were relieved by observing some rude hieroglyphics
marked upon an old cedar-tree. The representations were that of an
Indian carrying a canoe, and the direction of the figures corresponding
exactly with that of the portage path, which had been obscured by grass
and fallen leaves. A hunter with his gun levelled at two deer, indi-
cated that those animals were plentiful : this, and other information con-
veyed in a similar manner, was found to be correct. In another in-
stance, when the same party was descending Eel River, and their lives
were in jeopardy on the brink of a fall, a large drawing of two Indians,
with their heels uppermost and their canoes capsized, was seen executed
in durable black ink upon a broad piece of cedar secured to a post :
this warning was immediately understood, and a landing was effected
before the canoes and the whole party were plunged down the catoract.

Before the country was discovered, these tribes had been at war, and
desperate conflicts had taken place between rival powers. The Etche-

t |i

NEW BRUNSWICK.

113

H!^

mins and Iroquois had each struggled for supremacy, and the tortures
they inflicted upon their captives forms a dark page in the traditional
history of those people. At Meductic Point, eight miles below the
town of Woodstock, on the east bank of the St. John, a great battle
was fought between the Melicetes and Penobscots. In making a new
road at the sjiOt a few years ago, a number of skeletons and instru-
ments of war were discovered ; and songs are still chaunted by the
natives commemorative of the event. — The rel'Vs found at the mouth
of the Orom.ucto River are evidently those of a public cemetery, as the
skeletons at that place were ornamented and enveloped in beaver skins.
In 1639, the Mohawks of Canada were at war with the Micmacs of
Acadia, and a bloody battle :"s said to have been fought between them
near the mouth of tha Resiij^rouche. The former were victorious, and
the warlike character of the tribe was such that the war-whoop of the
Mohawk was to their enemies the signal for flight. Even at the pre-
sent day, the Indians of New Brunswick have a superstitious dread of
the spirit that led the "hungry wolves of Canada" to battle.

The early French Colonists soon discovered that they could never
carry On a successful war against so brave a people ; they therefore
endeavoured to make them their allies. They adopted their mode of
living, and even some of their barbarous customs. Their Governmen..
offered rewards to any who would marry a native, until the two races
were so blended together that they could not be separated. The priests
of the Jesuits lived with the savages, and all became the avowed ene-
mies of the English, who claimed the country by discovery and posses-
sion. The Indians readily laid hold of the firearms, axes, and knives
of the French, which were employed in the awful massacres of the
infant settlements in the Colony. Their dress was also made to imitate
the fTariiiciits of their visitors, and has since become a mixture of
English, French, and Indian fashions ; but although their outward
appearance has undergone alteration, and necessity has compelled them
to conform more or less to the present condition of the c<juntry, in their
social state they remain unchanged, and every effort to bring them to
a perfect state of civilisation h;is proved abortive. As a people, they
are ever ready to attach tlieiiiselves to almost any kind of religion,
according to expected gain. Wherever there is any show of pomp or

> 1

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Ill < <:>

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114

NEW BRUNSWICK.

ceremony, they will present themsclve? ; and their last friendly visitor
is always their idol, especially if he be lavish in the distribution of
presents. In all their negotiations, there is little sincerity. The Indian
naturally despises the refinements of civilisation ; he looks upon the
forest as his home, and even longs for wild adventure. Much pains
have been taken to improve the condition of these people. Young
children have beer taken, with their parents, and educated with much
care. They have been instructed in the arts and agriculture : but no
sooner were they liberated from their masters, than they returned to
the haunts and habits of their forefathers, and became the most de-
praved of all their race. By associating and labouring with the inha-
bitants of the Province, they have advanced slowly in agriculture, and
a few families may be found who support themselves comfortably by
their own exertions. But their intercourse with the whites his ajways
been the introduction to intemperance, disease, -Xixdi idleness ; and if we
judge by the rapid decline in their numbers since the country was
colonised, there is reason to fear that the day of their arrival at an
ordinary degree of civilisation will not long precede the day when the
names of their races will be blotted from the page of American history.
The great number of lakes and rivers in the Province afforded the
aborigines great facilities of water communication. The distances be-
tween those lakes and the sources of the rivers by land are short, and
are called portages, which in the forests are only narrow and obscure
paths. On some of the ancient Indian trails, the solid rocks have been
worn out by the mocassins of the native tribes. A natural water com-
munication is open almost from the Schoodic or St. Croix River across
the country to the St. John at the Meductic ; thence the aborigines
passed along the River St. Francis, or Tuladi, northward of Ln^ j
Temiscouta, to the St. Lawrence. This was one of the routes from
Passamaquoddy to Quebec. Portages were made between the Oro-
mucto Lake and the Magaguadavic, thence to the waters of the Cheput-
necticook and the eastern branches of the Penobscot — also from the
Tobique to the Nepisiguit, from the Grand Lake to the Richibucto,
and from the Grand River to the Restigouche.* It was along such

* To persons who are fond of hunting, fishing, and wild scenery, pleasant
excursions may be made during the summer and autumn, by hiring Indians

;ndly visitor
stribution of
The Indian
ks upon the
Much pains
pie. Young
id with much
;ure : but no
■ returned to
the most de-
ith the inha-
riculture, and
mfortably by
3s his ajways
ss ; and if we
countrj was
arrival at an
iay when the
ican history.
; afforded the
distances he-
re short, and
{ and obscure
iks have been
il water com-
River across
le aborigines
ard of La^ j
routes from
een the Oro-
if the Cheput-
ilso from the
e Richibucto,
is along such

enery, pleasant
hiring Indians

NEW lillUNSWICK.

115

wild ro\ites the Indians travelled to make their attacks upon the early
settlers of New England and Acadia ; and the quickness of their move-
ments from one place to another filled the minds of the early Colonists
with the greatest consternation. In the dark and silent hours of the
night, when the peaceful inhabitants of the villages were wrapt in
slumber, or when the sentinel trusted to the distance between himself
and the enemy, the savages were creeping upon them like serpents,
sometimes drawing their bodies on the ground, at other times standing
erent and imitating the appearance of trees or other common objects,
until the war-whoop was raised, when all rushed forward to the indis-
criminate and diabolical slaughter of men, women, and children. These
fiendish acts, and the terrible tortures they inflicted on their prisoners,
formed the dark pages of Indian history, until British arms and civilisa-
tion swept from the continent the barbarities of its primeval inhabitants.
All the Northern tribes are now upon friendly terms. The Chiefs
and Delegates of the Penobscots, Micmacs, and Melicetes hold a Coun-

with their canoes, and traversing the rivers in the interior. The aborigines
when thus employed are active and industrious, and while poleing, or paddling
the stranger up the rapids in quest of game, ^hey will relate many amusing
anecdotes. For their skill in cooking little can be said ; but the readines»
with which they erect a wigwam or shanty, kindle a fire, prepare the bed of
cedar boughs, and attend to the comfort of their employers, makes due amends
for their careless habits in preparing food ; and although they may offer the
sportsman parched trout, (trout roasted in the blaze,) or racoon stewed ii.
bear's grease, they will seldom urge him to partake of their viands to excess
after he has paid a due compliment to their culinary ability. The following
story is given to illustrate the humour of a Melicete Indian hunter, who was
much addicted to taking snufF. In broken English, he says — " One time I go
huntem moose ; night come dark, rain and snow come fast ; no axe for makum
wigwam ; gun vet, no get um fire ; me very tired, me crawl into large hollow
tree ; I find plenty room, almost begin sleep. By and bye me feelem hot wind
blow on my face: me know hot bear's breath. He crawl into log too; I take-
um gun, she no go ; I think me all same gone, all eat up. Then me thinkum
my old snuff'box ; I take some snuff and throweni in bear's face, and he run
out; not very much likeum, I guess. Mc lay still all night, he no come again.
Every leetle while, every time bearhegoO-mc sneczeinn, over and over great
many times. Morning come, mc fixeni gun and shoot em dead : he no more
sneezeum, no more this time."

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116

NEW BRUNSWICK.

'i- fij

cil annually at Pleasant Point, on the St. Croix, where they renew
their friendship and establish regulations for the public weal. Each
tribe has laws peculiar to itself, and the measures adopted by the Grand
Covincil prevent collision in hunting and fishing. Their politics are
neutral. They are now a harmless and, with due allowance for their
customs, an honest people, with whom a Provincial or a European is
as safe as he would be with his own coimtrymen. As a people, they
still retain their idle, wandering habits, and many of them are frequently
in a atate of suffering and wretchedness. To this there are nevertheless
exceptions, and a few families not only enjoy many comforts, but have
small sums of money at their disposal.

The Provincial Government has made many efforts to ameliorate the
condition of these people. Commissions have been appointed in differ-
ent parts of the Province to watch over their interests ; and small sums
of money are granted by the Legislature, from time to time, to pur-
chase seeds, and otherwise assist them when they are in distress. Four-
teen tracts of land, containing 61,273 acres, have been reserved in dif-
ferent parts of the Province for their use, and which they are permitted
to occupy during pleasure. Encroachments have been made upon those
lands to a great extent, and some of the best tracts have been settled
by squatters. As the title is not in the Indians, they have no power to
prevent trespasses; and the result has been, that the lands set apart for
their benefit are plundered of their most valuable timber, and the most
fertile pieces of ground occupied by unauthorised persons.

There is a village of the Melicetes on the right bank of the St. John,
about twelve miles above Fredericton. At that place there is a chapel,
six comfortable dwelling-houses, and sometimes fifteen wigwams. The
Indians obtain a scanty subsistence by cultivating potatoes, making
baskets, hunting, and fishing. A few families also reside occasionally
at Meductic Point, an ancient station of the tribe. A large tract of
land at this place was granted by the French Government to Rene
d' Amour, Sieur de Clignancourt, as early as 1684. At the entrance of
the Tobique River, 16,000 acres of land have been rescued for the
Indians. The village there consists of twenty-six houses and wigwams,
and a population of 120 souls. Some of the males are employed in
rafting timber during the summer nionths, others devote the whole of

NKW URUNSWICK.

117

tlicir time to the chacc. A few of the Melicctes also reside at Mada-
wasca, among the Acadian French : but a number of families have no
fixed place of residence, and are seen wandering over the face of the
country in poverty and wretchedness.

A number of Micmac families arc settled on the Indian reserves of
the Miramichi, Richibucto, and other rivers of the northern coast. The
most extensive village of that tribe is at Mission Point, sixteen miles
from the mouth of the Restigouehe, on the Canada side. This place
was the residence of a missionary. The village contains a large chapel
and mission-house, and a population of 200 families. Lumbering,
hunting, and fishing are the chief employments.

All these tribes were converted to Christianity by the labours of the
Jesuits, and they still adhere to the Roman Catholic faith ; but their
attachment to that church is not greater than it would be to any other
denomination, whose missionaries should carry with them a bountiful
supply of presents for the use and benefit of their proselytes.

In 1841, Sir William Colebrooke, the Lieutenant-Governor of the
Province, appointed M. H. Perley, Esq. a Special Commissioner for
Indian Affairs, by whose labours much information was obtained of the
condition of the two tribes, and the state of their lands. According to
the Report of the Commissioner, the number of Melicctes, male and
female, is 442 ; of Micmacs, 935 : total number of Indians in the Pro-
vince, 1,377. There was a time when those tribes could muster more
than four times that number of warriors, exclusive of other population ;
and they now believe that the diseases of the Europeans, and ardent
spirits, have been more fatal to them than the arrows and scalping-
knives of all their enemies.

Notwithstanding the Micmac and Melicete tribes both inhabit one
district, it is singular that the language of one cannot be understood by
the other.

The Lord's Prayer in the Melicete Language.

Me-tox-sen-aa spum-keek ay-e-en saga-mo\v-ee tel-naox-se'en tel-e-wec-so-
teek. Clieeptooke wee-chee-u leek spum-keektaun. e-too-cheesauk-too leek
spum-a kay-e'eu. Too-eep-nankna-mecn kes-o kecs-skah-keel wek-a gulcek
cl-mc-kecs-kaak keel-mets-min a-woolee. Ma-hate-moo-in ka-tee a-lec-wa-
nay-ool-tc-ck el mas we-cliee-a keel mecoke-niay-kcel ne-ma-hate-hum-too-
mooin.

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

Tht Lord's Prayer In the Micmac Language.

Noorch enon waa-sooke ubiii, chip-took, talwcc-.siii me-Kn-day-dc tnek.
Wan-8oke-te-lec-(laa-nen chip-took igga imm-win oo-hi ne-iiioo-lek naa-de \v
tay ae-tien. Naa-tel waa-soke ai-kcek chip-took ta-lee-ska-doolek ma-ga-ini
guek ay e-mek. Tcl-la-inoo-koo-be-ne-gal es-nic-a gul opcli nega-a-tah kecs-
took igga-nam-win nes-cl-co-nen. Ta-lce a-bik-chik-ta-kaa-cliik wa-gai-iiec-
na-inet-iiick elk-kecl-nccs-kaain a-bik chic-toc-lii cl-wa-wool-ti-jcck. Mol-
kce-nin inaach win-chcc-gul mook-ta-gaa-lin kecs-e-na waain-kil win-cUee-
gukl ko qui-ak too-ack-too-in. — Qtiebea Version.

I>»R

CHAPTER VI.

TOPOGRAPHY OF NEW BRUNSWICK — SOUTHERN COUNTIES.

In the general description of the Province some of the most important
features of the country were described, and a brief survey of the Colony
is, perhaps, all that is necessary for historical purposes ; but as emigra-
tion from the mother-country is an object of high importance, it appears
to be expedient to supply such topographical details as may serve to
guide the stranger in the choice of a situation where he is to establish him-
self for life on shores remote from his native home. It has been a subject
of much complaint that the Province is scarcely known in Great
Britain, and that this wide field for the industry of the British emigrant
has been overlooked. It is therefore proposed to give in the two fol-
lowing chapters a sketch of each county, and to notice the particulars
of each district. With those objects in view, it is necessary that the
extensive resources of the Province should be considered ; and as they
vary in different sections of the country, they may be briefly mentioned
in the course of topographical description.

The inhabited parts of New Brunswick are divided into twelve coun-
ties : St. John, Charlotte, Westmoreland, King's, Queen's, Siinbury,
York, Carlton, Kent, Northumberland, Gloucester, and Restigouche.*
The Seigniory of Madawasca has also been under the jurisdiction of the
Province. The counties have been laid out with great irregularity ;
during the early progress of cultivation, villages frequently sprang up

• The County of Westmoreland has recently been divided, and a new
county, called the Coimty of Albert, has been set off on the west side of the
Peticodiac; but as the divisional lines are not yet established, we have
included the whole in the description of the County of Westmoreland.

1.1

120

NKW BUUNSWICK.

beyond the limits of any local authority, nnd new counties were laid
out for the accommodation of such settlements, and apparently without
any view to the physical features of the country, or to future conveni-
ence. A glance at the map of New Brunswick will satisfy the most
casual observer of the improvements that might be made by proper
surveys, and a general equalisation of land between the counties. The
County of Northumberland, although it has been twice divided, has
more than its share of territory ; and several counties cross the St. John
River, which forms a natural and convenient boundary. Some of the
parishes also, where they are laid out at all, are very inconvenient to
the inhabitants. King's County should have touched the Bay of
Fundy eastward of Quaco, and the County of Westmoreland shoidd
have been bounded by the Peticodiac. The surveys of land have also
been conducted in an irregular manner, and by giving rise to disputes
have been improfitable to all, except gertlemen of the legal profession.
Each county is subdivided into parishes; the total number of which,
including districts and cities, is 95. As the population increases, new
counties will be laid out. There is still sufficient space for a county in
the vicinity of the Grand Falls, one on the Tobiq^ue River, and one or
two in the District of the Restigouche.

County of St. John.

The County of St. John, situated at the mouth of the river of
that name, occupies a long and narrow belt of land forming the
north coast of the Bay of Fundy, between Cape Enrage and Mace's
Bay ; being upwards of eighty miles in length, and upon an aver-
age not more than ten miles in breadth. It contains the parishes
of Portland, Carlton, Lancaster, St. Martin's, and Simonds. The
whole shore is rocky, and frequently bounded by precipitous and over-
hanging cliffs. Eastward of St. John there are no harbours of im-
portance ; but vessels of considerable burthen may enter Black and
Quaco Rivers, Ten-mile and Gardner's Creeks, at high- water. Mispec
River has a very pretty haven at its mouth. On all these streams
there are saw or flour mills. The saw-mills at Salmon River, with the
lands attached thereto, cost upwards of £20,000 currency. The coast
is thinly settled ; but at Quaco there is a large village with two meetitig-

::S

NEW BRUNSWICK.

1121

houses* and Bcvcral ship-yards. This place was first settled by ofllcers
and sohliers of the King's Oran{:j(; Rangers ; many of whoso descend-
ants still live in the parish, since culled St. Martin's.

The Harbour of St. John is safe, but not very spacious, espcci
at low-water. The tides rise twenty-six feet, and therefore great faciii
ties arc afforded for repairing and lau.iching vessels; for during tho
retreat of tlu^ sea, the sliorcs and a nunib'.'r of docks are left dry. At
such periods there is a strong outward current in the harbour, which,
during the flood, is easy of access for the largest ships. From the great
quantity of fresh water that descends from the river during the freshets
of spring and autumn, a strong and favourable breeze is necessary to
enable ships to enter; in calm weather and head-winds they are fre-
quently towed in by steamers. Partridge Island is situated at tho
mouth of the harbour. On it there arc a battery, lighthouse, signal
station, and hospital for the acconunodution of sick emigrants and sail-
ors, who are remo\ d from vessels on their entering the quarantine
station. Between the island and the main land westward there is a
long narrow bar, dry at low water. A beacon on the bar is crowned
by an excellent light, and offers a good mark for vessels entering at
night : there arc buoys on a shoal on the opposite side of the entrance.

At the lower extremity of the city a long pier has been erected, and
is rapidly filling up by the ballast discharged from the timber-ships.
At high -water large vessels pass the Falls, near the city, and navigate
the river above. Eastward of the harbour there is a broad and shallow
estuary terminating in a marsh, and a deep ravine tVat runs westward,
and separates the town of Portland from St. John. As the latter con-
tains an abundant supply of clay, it is the site of a number of brick-
yards, which are more useful than ornamental to the environs of the
city.

The Harbour of St. John has an important advantage over almost
every other port in the Province, in being open at all seasons of the
year. The ice — the great obstacle to navigation in all the ports of the
St. Lawrence — does not accumulate here so as to obstruct navigation ;

• The houses of worship of the Dissenters are called by the inhabitants
meeting- housci. ^,

111

122

NKW BRUNSWICK.

and during the coldest months of winter, vessels are loaded and
despatched to foreign countries without much risk or inconvenience.
The harbour and offing afford a most valuable fishery : cod, halibut,
pollock, and other kinds of fish, are caught at all seasons of the year ;
shad, herring, alewivesj and salmon are abundant during the spring
and summer months ; the Letter fish is sometimes sold as low as three-
pence per pound. The fishery is divided into lots, which are anuually
drawn for by lottery, each citizen having a right to a ticket. The
prizes, or best lots, are afterwards leased for £50, and even £100. The
market where the fish are offered for sale is small and filthy, and calls
for improvement.

St. John s built upon a rocky peninsula of very uneven ground,
that slopes in opposite directions from a central ridge. A great deal of
labour has been employed in cutting down the hills and levelling the
streets ; several of which are still steep, and the ice in winter sometimes
renders them dangerous. That division of the city which is nearest the
entrance of the harbour is called Lower Cove. The principal wharves,
docks, and warehouses are situated farther to the north, and extend
around the head of the basin to within a short distance of the Falls.
The whole shore is lined with timb •-•.londs, booms, and shipyards,
which receive the numerous rafts floated down the river.

The streets Jiave been regularly laid out, and two pieces of ground,
King's Square and Queen's Square, near the centre of the town, have
been reserved for pubUc accommodation. The city, which includes
within its boundaries a town on the western side of the harbour, called
Carlton, consists of six wards. It is incorporated,* and governed by a
Mayor (who is appointed by the Lieutenant-Governor), a Recorder, six
Aldermen, six Assistant Aldermen, a Sh nff'.of the County, a Coroner,
Common Clerk, Chamberlain, High Constable, six Marshals, and sixteen
inferior Constables. The revenue of the city amounts to about £5,000
per annum. A part of the public property still remains unleased, and
is yearly growing more ■''aluable. It is well built, and the whole range
of wharves, to the distance of a mile and a half, is lined with stones and

• No emigrant, nor any other person, can sell goods until he first obtain the
freedom of the city ; the cfKt of which is £5 currency.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

123

loaded and
anvenience.
>d, halibut,
r the year ;
the spring
IV as three-
*e annually
cket. The
noo. The
r, and calls

!n ground,
eat deal of
veiling the
sometimes
learest the
1 wharves,
3d extend
the Falls,
shipyards,

f ground,
)wn, have
includes
ur, called
rned by a
Jrder, six
Coroner,
d sixteen
t £5,000
ised, and
3le range
ones and

ibtain the

large piles of deal, and other kinds of lumber, destined for the British
market. The principal buildings are made of stone and brick, and a
number of the shops are not excelled in beauty in much older
cities. . '

On the 14th of January, 1837, a destructive fire broke out and
consumed 115 houses and stores, which were equal at the time to one-
third of the commercial part of the city. The loss was estimated at
£250,000. Several severe fires have occurred since, and whole streets,
including the north and south market wharves, have been laid in ruins,
with a new market-house at the foot of King Street. The extreme
point of the peninsula belongs to the Crown, and is occupied by two
batteries, military stores, and barracks, capable of containing two regi-
ments. In front of the barracks there is a spacious parade-ground,
which affords a fine promenade in summer for the public, who are
admitted without distinction. The principal public buildings are three
Episcopal Churches ; two Presbyterian, one Roman Catholic, two Me-
thodist, one Baptist, one Covenanter, one Christian Band Chapel ; a
Grammar School, a Methodist Sunday-school, Court-hovse, Gaol, Poor-
house, two Hospitals, a Mechanics' Institute, Mayor's and City Office,
three Banks, Market-house, Custom-house, St. John Hotel, and Peni-
tentiary. A number of private houses are tastefully built, and the
residence of the Chief Justice, situate in a small park, is quite in
European style. The low wooden buildings that formerly occupied the
suburbs are yearly replaced by handsome cottages, and the city is
rapidly increasing in magnitude and population.*

Carlton, on the west side of the harbour, forms two wards of the
city ; it almost surrounds a large pond supplying water to saw-mills
during the recess of the tide. It has several handsome streets, an
Episcopal Church, Meeting-house, and extensive wharves. A steamboat
plies between the shores, which are a quarter of a mile apart, every
fifteen minutes. The fishing is excellent ; and, from the convenience of

* General Arnold, who made a conspicuous figure in the American Revolu-
tionary War, resided in the city after the peace, and the house built by him in
King Street still remains standing. The celebrated and notorious William
Cobbett was once stationed at this phice as a private soldier; and ho here
Vound his wife, of whom ho afterwards published a curious auto-biography.

i&Vi

■ 'I

124

NEW BRUNSWICK.

tho situation, several mercantile establishments have been opened of
late, and the appearance of the place much improved.

The manufacturing industry of St. John has advanced with the growth
of the city. It has no at three iron-foundries, in which exalted steam-
engines and other machinery are made. There are also a number of
flour-mills, turned by steam and water, for the manufacture of foreign
grain ; but, from the present abundance of timber, the sawing of logs
into deals, scantling, shingles, and laths, has called forth tlin greatest
amount of capital : several steam saw-mills are employed in this busi-
ness, and others are contemplated. The descent of the river at the
Falls has given rise to the St. John Mills and Canal Company ; and
machinery for sawing and grinding grain is propelled by the stream, as
it rushes down the frightful rapid towards the ocean. At a site below
the Falls where the river is very narrow, an attempt was made a few
years ago to erect a bridge between Carlton and the opposite shore.
The work was nearly completed, when, from the lack of engineering
science, a part of it fell into the stream, and a number of workmen,
with a mass of timber, were plunged upwards of one hundred and fifty
feet into the river below : of the men only a few were saved, and the
event is among the painful records of the loss of life which has been
but too frequent at and below the cataract.

Formerly there was an Indian village a furlong above the Falls, and
the spot is still called Indian Town. The river steamers and small
craft generally land here, and a little town has sprung up within the
space of a few years. The distance to the city is a mile and a quarter,
and the street runs through the thriving town of Portland, which
should be united to St. John, instead of being a separate parish. The
whole shore of Portland is occupied by timber-docks and ship-yards,
and, except for its lack of cleanliness and frequent disorder, it wouM
be a valuable appendage to the city.

Northward of Portland stands Fort Howe Hill, which commands the
upper part of the harbour. The hill is the site of a military '^ jst, with
a magazine at its base. Portland is the site of a handsome Episcopal
Church, a Roman Catholic Chapel, two Meeting-houses, and an
Academy.

By the recent exertions of an active company formed for the pur-

pose, ii

broughtl

water id

conduct!

are verj

by the

The

tion.

nences,

consist

blockhc

Althouf

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tlie greatest
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ipany; and
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3ngineering
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Episcopal
i, and an

the

pur-

NEW DIIUNSWICK,

125

pose, the principal streets of St. John are now supplied with water,
brought from a small lake situated a mile and a half northward. The
water is elevated by forcing-pumps to the highest ground, and then
conducted through pipes to its several places of destination. The streets
are very imperfectly lighted, and an effort to introduce gas was resisted
by the Corporation of 1842.

The situation of St. John is by no means unfavourable for fortifica-
tion. Batteries on Partridge Island, Fort Howe Hill, and other emi-
nences, would defend the haven and city. At present the defences
consist of three small batteries on the east, and a stone tower and
blockhouse on the west side of the harbour, and a fort on the island.
Although those works are not in a state of perfect repair, the well-
known spirit of the Militia, with the expertness of their artillery divi-
sions, would render the approach of an enemy even with a strong force
very hazardous.

The uplands in the vicinity of St. John are rocky. The soil is scanty
and meagre. There are, nevertheless, fine fields and meadows, which,
by industry and patience, have been rendered fertile. A marsh con-
sisting of 1500 acres, eastward of the city, has been rescued from the
sea by an embankment, and, by good cultivation, produces hay, pota-
toes, and oats abundantly. The surrounding country is thickly covered
with cedar, larch, hemlock, and spruce. Viewed from any of the emi-
nences flanking the harbour, the scenery is bold and picturesque. The
river at low-water, dashing forward in columns of spray, is seen rushing
through a narrow gorge into the harbour, spreading the surface of the
water with wreaths of foam. Cultivation is driving back the forest,
and the whole basin of the river appears to be aiive with ships, steam-
boats, anr* small craft. In the rear, Fort Howe Hill, overlooking the
busy scenes below, forms an interesting object. In the midst of this
scenery stands the city of Si. John, the great commercial depot of the
Bay of Fffndy.

A little more than si"" 'y years ago, the site of the city was a rocky
headland covered with cedar thickets. It was then the refuge of Ame-
rican Loyalists, by whose patience and industry the foundation of a
flourishing city was established, and which now contains 2G,000 souls.
Besides the public institutions before mentioned, St. John has a Cham-

f^, '^

'it

¥■

r : I

* I

I /

lllll

-1

1
\

126

NEW BRUNSWICK.

ber of Commerce, Agricultural and HorticultunJ Society, Emigration
Society,* Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, Religious Tract
Society, Church-of-England Sunday School Society, Ladies' Benevo-
lent Society, Library, Sacred Music Society, St. George's Society,
St. Andrew's Society, St. Patrick's Society, Albion Union Society,
Orphan's Benevolent Society, Temperance Society, Total Abstinence
Society, and three Fire Clubs.

Some writers and travellers have charged the inhabitants of St. John
with a lack of civility, and a want of harmony in their social character.
In all commercial cities which rise rapidly, the constant influx of per-
sons of different pursuits gives rise to jealousies ; but such feelings
seldom exist among the better classes at St. John, than whom a more
kind and benevolent people can scarcely be found in an^' :;ountry.
Again, it frequently happens that men in the humbler walks of life,
and with little education, by their industry obtain wealth, and conse-
quently more or less influence : such persons seldom acquire the accom-
plishments of those who have had greater advantages of refinement,
and it would be wrong to condemn a whole eonnnunity for the rudeness
or incivility of some of its members. The licentiousness of the press
has created unhappy divisions, and given to strangers an unfavourable
opinion of the state of society ; but the remarks of promiscuous and
ai.mymous writers, who delight to record every supposed evil, take no
hold upon the public mind, and time and the more general diffusion of
correct principles will purify the corrupt portion of the press from its
present tainted and disgusting personalities.

Besides being open to foreign trade, the situation of St. John is very
favourable for Colonial traffic. The timber and other resources of the
interior of the Province — and, since the settlement of the Boundary
dispute, a part of the State of Maine — are transported down the river
to the city, which commands the business of the towns and settlements
above. It has also taken the traffic of the Bay of Fundy, and through
that channel continues to draw away the productions of Nova Scotia

i '

* The Government ha? appointed M, H. Perlcy, Esq., an Emigration Agent
at St. John, who will be found ready to afford advice and assistance to any
respectable emigrant who arrives at the port.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

127

y, Emigration
eligious Tract
idies' Benevo-
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nion Society,
:al Abstinence

ts of St. John

cial character.

influx of per-

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imiscuous and

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press from its

:. John is very
sources of the
the Boundary
;lown the river
nd settlements
', and through
f Nova Scotia

ligration Agent
sistance to any

from Halifax. The construction of railways in the Provinces would
greatly alter and improve the state of Colonial trade, and give to Hali-
fax, the capital of Nova Scotia, a larger share of the business of that
Province : but it is reserved for the chapter on the Commerce of New
Brunswick to treat more largely on this subject.

Seven miles westward from St. John, a small bay, called Mana-
wagonis, affords shelter for vessels during the prevalence of certain
winds. Musquash Harbour, farther to the south-west, is a safe and
beautiful haven, two miles long and half a mile wide. It is easy of
access, wit^ deep water and good anchorage. During the early settle-
ment of the country, a French armed brig was chased into Musquash
Harbour by a British cruiser. The former was run ashoie and de-
serted by her crew, and a part of the wreck may still be seen at a place
called Frenchman's Creek. At the head of the haven, there is a tract
of marsh, intersected by Musquash River, which extends into the
parish and village of Lancaster. On the northern branch of the stream,
superior saw-mills have been erected by the Lancaster Mill Company,
at an expense exceeding £20,000. The exports from those mills have
been equal to £10,000 per annum.

Dipper and Little Dipper Harbours are frequented by coasters, and
they are very convenient basins on a shore which, in general, is bold
and rocky. In all these harbours, and along the intervening coast,
there is a plentiful run offish, of which comparatively few are taken by
the inhabitants, who, like those on many other shores, divide their
time between agriculture, lumbering, and fishing.

The whole District of St. John may be said to be rocky and broken.
The soil in general is scanty and meagre, requiring at the hands of the
husbandman much care and diligence in the pi-oduction of a crop. On
the west it is traversed by the great road leading from the city to St.
Andrew's, upon which a stage or mail coach passes every day. Be-
sides the main road, extending from the city towards the eastern section
of the Province and Nova Scotia, there is another rvmning to Quaco,
passing by a beautiful sheet of water called Loch Lomond. Roads
have also been laid out and improved along the shores, and to the
remotest settlements ; but many of them are in a bad state, and few

»'

''1il

128

NEW DUUNSWICK.

can be travelled with speed or comfort. The liberal grants made
annually by the Legislature for the improvement of internal communi-
cation will soon multiply the facilities for travelling.

The best forests of this county have been felled, and it is only at
places remote from the roads or open streams that good timber can
now be produred. The chief advantages of the country inhabitants are
the proximity of a market for their produce, the fisheries, and facilities
for ship-building.

The county contains 427,650 acres, of which only 19,134* acres
are cleared : large blocks of land still remain ungranted ; but, from
their mountainous and rocky character, they scarcely invite settlement.
Notwithstanding, there are many small tracts that would compensate
the industry of the steady farmer. Limestone is abundant, and, by
judicious management, would greatly improve the state of agriculture.
A considerable part of the surface is occupied by tracts of barren soil,
producing only stunted spruce and moss ; and bogs of peat are numerous.
The appearance of the almost sterile spots is rendered less dreary by
numerous small lakes and rivulets, resting quietly between the hills, or
winding their way to the rivers and bays. The abrupt ■ (laracter of
almost every eminence also contributes to render the scenery interest-
ing. Although much of the land presents to the farmer a forbidding
aspect, villages and settlements are springing up in almost every
quarter. Of these, Quaco, in the Parish of St. Martin's, has become
important, on account of its peculiar advantages for ship- building.
The Parish of Lancaster is also rapidly improving in husbandry and
domestic manufacture.

This county is better adapted for emigrants who have trades, or
have been brought up to fishing, than for those who follow the
tillage of the soil. The small harbours, bays, and creeks offer
suitable sites for shore or deep-sea fishing, which might be carried on
with profit.

On every stream of sufiicient magnitude there are one or more saw-
mills. During the winter season, the country inhabitants arc engaged
in felling and transporting logs of timber for those establishments, from

* Census of New lirunsAvick, IS 10.

NEAV BRUNSWICK.

129

vrhence the deals are shipped in the ensuing spring. This kind of in-
dustry cannot be pursued in the best agricultural districts of Canada
and Nova Scotia, where the cold months of winter bring around the
season of gaiety, amusement, and matrimony.

The soil, when properly cultivated, produces fine crops of excellent
potatoes, turnips, oats, barley, flax, grass, &c., for which it is better
adapted than for wheat or Indian corn. The fogs that hang over the
coast, during the early part of summer, are very unfavourable to the
production of the latter kinds of grain. A hardy breed of cattle find
sufficient grazing on the uncleared lands during the vegetating months.
But the whole county partakes of the coast climate, which is far less
favourable to the growth of plants than the warmer and less humid
atmosphere of the interior. The total population of the County and
City of St. John, at the present time, is about 35,000 souls.

County of Charlotte.

The County of Charlotte, if not the most extensive in area, is next
in population and trade to the County of St. John. Commencing at
Point Le Proe, on the shore of the Bay of Fundy, its eastern line
touches the before -mentioned district, and the King's and Queen's
Counties. On the north, it meets Sunbury and York ; on the west,
it extends to the River St. Croix, or Schoodic, the boundary of the
United States ; and on the south, it is washed by the waves of the
Bay. It contains ten parishes, — namely, St. Andrew's, St. Stephen's,
St. David's, 3t. George's, St. Patrick's, St. James', Pennfield, Grand
Manan, West Isles, and Campo Bello. Whether those names were
applied on all Saints' Day, or not, is of little consequence ; the parishes,
nevertheless, border on the St. Croix, and are situated to the westward
of St. John and St. Martin's.

St. Andrew's, the principal town of this county, though not equal to
St. John in magnitude, is of commercial importance, and would soon
increase rapidly were it not for its rival St. Stephen's, a new town
situated farther up the St. Croix, at the highest point to which vessels
can ascend. The site of St. Andrew's, the shire town, is upon a
peninsula on the east side of the mouth of the River St. Croix, or
Schoodic, which at its debouchement into Passamaquoddy Bay is two

■I'fi'^'

;;■ n

r' »

>■■■ ;' 11

130

NEW BRUNSWKJK.

miles wide. The river opposite the town is divided by the small island
upon which De Monts and his party wintered in the early discovery of
the country.

This frontier town, situated nearly opposite to Rohinstown on the
American side, is built upon level ground, or an inclined plane, that
slopes gently down from swelling ridges of land eastward to the border
of the river. Streets running parallel to the harbour, and a chain of
wharves occupied by stores, are intersected by other streets at right an-
gles ; the buildings in general are good, and the town, with its surround-
ing meadows and cultivated fields, presents a beautiful landscape. Being
one of the oldest places in the Province, it is well provided with piiblic
institutions ; the principal of which are a Chamber of Commerce,
Bank, Savings' Bank, Bible Society, Agricultural Society, Geological
Society, St. Patrick's Society, together with an Academy and Printing
Office. The public buildings are an Episcopal Church, a Presbyterian
Meeting-house, a Methodist Chapel, Court-house, Gaol, Record Office,
Barracks, &c. A number of the private houses are built in handsome
style, and impart an air of neatness to the whole place, which, although
not extensive, contains much wealth and respectability. The safe and
commodious harbour is favourably situated for foreign traffic and fish-
ing, although it is sometimes obstructed by ice in the winter season.
Heretofore, the West India trade, and exports of timber to Great Bri-
tain, have been pursued with success. The town is surrounded, except
on its harbour side, by well- cultivated farms, which reach across the
peninsula to Chamcook, at a medium distance of a mile and a half
eastward.

About four miles northward of St. Andrew's stands Chamcook
Mountain, associated with a number of cone-shaped hills, which add
much to the grandeur of the scenery of the district. At the base of
the former eminence are situated Chamcook Lake, River, and Harbour,
opening out on the eastern side of the peninsula. At this place, exten-
sive saw and grist mills, with a spacious wet dock, have been erected
by John Wilson, Esq., by whose enterprise this part of the county has
been much improved.

A mail crosses the line to and from the United States at St. An-
drew's, and there are ferry establishments on both sides of the river for

NEW BRUNSWICK.

131

the accommodation of travellers. Steamboats also ply between the
St. John and the St. Croix during spring, summer, and autumn.

A few years ago, an Association was formed at St. Andrew's, called
the St. Andrew's and Quebec Railroad Company ; and the inhabitants
of that town, it appears, were the first to propose a railway from the
Atlantic to Canada through New Brunswick. In 1836, the Govern-
ment granted £10,000 towards the accomplishment of the object, and
that sum was expended in exploring a proper route. The Company
obtained an act of incorporation, and proposed a capital of £750,000 :
the distance is 270 miles, chiefly through a dense wilderness, until it
approaches the Grand Falls on the St. John. The line explored ex-
tends in nearly a straight line from St. Andrew's to the Parish of
Woodstock ; thence to the valley of the Aroostook, in the District of
the Upper St. John, which it crosses, and then proceeds to the
St. Lawrence near Quebec. This route is practicable ; but the giving
away of a part of the territory of New Brunswick to the Americans
in the settlement of the Boundary dispute has materially changed
the features of the undertaking, and would now increase the engineering
difficulties of a line run on British ground. The unsettled state of the
American claim, and difficulty of obtaining the requisite capital, pre-
vented it from being constructed at the time, and the railway now pro-
posed between Halifax and Quebec will no doubt check its farther
advancement, unless it be deemed expedient to make this a branch of
the great line intended to intersect the Lower Provinces.

Next in importance in the County of Charlotte is St. Stephen's,
sixteen miles from St. Andrew's, and at the head of ship navigation.
This thriving little town has one Episcopal Church, two Meeting-
houses, a Bank, Whale-fishing Company, and other public institutions.
Between it and St. Andrew's, the river throws out a beautiful sheet of
water called Oak Bay, around which the scenery is very bold and inter-
esting. The waters of the united Cheputnecticook and Schoodic Rivers,
with their extensive tributaries and lakes in the interior, make their
final descent over a fall into the sea at St. Stephen's. Here, and also
at Milltown, two miles above, advantage is taken of the rapid current,
and saw-mills are kept in constant operation, being supplied with tim-
ber floated down the lakes and rivers by the freshets of spring. A rail-

K 2

' ■! -i

132

NEW BHU: .»ICK.

way on the American and a sluice oii t\\v British side of the stream
convey the lumber from the mills to the basin below, where it is
■hipped. The quantity of boards, deals, and other lumber thus pro-
duced has given rise to a brisk trade with Europe and the West Indies,
and rendered the upper town a place of active business. A large vil-
lage called Milltown has also sprung up from lumbering industry, and
is rapidly assuming the features of a flourishing town. Of late, agri-
culture has engaged the attention of many of the inhabitants, and the
country around exhibits the extension and improvement of husbandry.

Directly opposite St. Stephen's is situated the town of Calais, on the
American side. A bridge has been thrown across the river, a/»d a
friendly intercourse exists between the inhabitants of the opposite tr>r-
ders of the national boundary. During the last war, when a collision
between those whose dwellings are within gimshot of each other would
have produced the most unhappy consequences, it was mutually agreed
upon by the subjects of both countries along this mhabited part of the
line, that no attack should be made on either side, and the authorities
effectually restrained the violence that sometimes springs from rash and
intemperate men.

From Calais there are stages running to different places in the State
of Maine ; and if there is a single character that would distinguish the
American from the British border, it is the greater number of houses of
worship and denominations professing Christianity on the side of the
former. The population of the Parish of St. Stephen's in 1840 was
3,405 ; it will soon exceed 4,000.

A tract of elevated and broken land extends from the County of
St. John in a south-west direction to the American boundary. Within
its range are the Mountains of the Nerepis, and the high lands of the
Digdeguash and Magaguadavic, with the eminences that skirt the shore
and stretch away into the interior. This range crosses the County of
Charlotte, having Chamcook Mountain a little advanced towards the
seaboard. The parishes already described, and those of St. James,
St. David, and St. Patrick, at their northern extremities, are therefore
broken and stony ; and, from the nature of the rocks, they partake of
the character of mountainous districts. On their southern margins,
where they approach the river, the slopes and valleys are cultivated,

NEW BRUNSWICK.

and yield good crops. In such situutiuns, there is often a subsoil of
clay, and excellent grass lands. Dift'erent kinds of grain thrive well ;
but the dense fogs that envelop the coast during the warm season are
unfavourable for the ripening of wheat, which at places a little more
remote from the sea yields a substantial harvest.

The Parish of St. Patrick is traversed by the lower part of the Dig-
(h'guash River, opening into Chamcook Har)>our. The stream at certain
seasons of the year affords passage for logs and squared timber, and ii
occupied by saw-mills. The chief part of the soil is dry and stony.

St. George's Parish is intersected by the Magaguadavic, also empty-
ing into Chamcook Bay. At its mouth there is a very beautiful har-
bour, and the river is navigable for boats and rafts of timber to the
Lower Falls, a distance of ten miles. At the termination of the navi-
gable part of the stream, the river falls, by five successive steps, one
hundred feet, and through a chasm averaging only thirty feet wide.
The sides of the narrow gorge are occupied by six saw-mills of great
power, which cling to the rocks like eagles' nests ; and the lumber
manufactured by them is carried along sluces into a small, deep basin
below, where the water is in constant revolution. Above the Falls,
the river passes through a level wide plain of intervale ; and, after pur-
suing a very tortuous course, it reaches Loon Lake, and communicates
with the Shogamock, a small tributary of the St. John. From the river,
its lakes, and a branch called the Piskehagan, there has been an abun-
dant supply of logs, and the exports of lumber from the harbour are
still very considerable. The little town of St. George, situated at and
above the Falls, is a neat village with a number of good buildings :
the main road from St. John to St. Andrew's passes through it. Lake
Eutopia, surrounded by hills, separates it from the intervale above
mentioned. The village, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wil-
derness to the north, render this part of the country peculiarly pictu-
resque : indeed, the neighbourhood of St. George, the Digdeguash,
Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller with some of
the finest scenery in America. Forty miles up the Magaguadavic, the
wilderness country is still more elevated. In the chain of high lands in
this quarter, Mount Pleasant is the most conspicuous among the nume-
rous hills of the district.

134

NEW UllUNSWICK.

I "i

The above parish has an exccllunt harbour, calk-d li'Rtang, which is
separated from the mouth of the Magaguudavic by a narrow peniiisula
projecting into the bay. At this place and on the neighbouring islands
there arc extensive quarries of limestone. Ik-aver Harbour, ten miles
farther eastward, also aftbrds safe anchorage for small vessels. In regard
to soil and scenery, the parish of Pennfield is similar to St. Patrick's.
It fronts the sea it Mace's Bay, a shallow estuary ; and the principal
river, the Poclogan, is an inferior stream. The County of Charlotte
communicates with St. .fohn by the main road leading from the latter
to St. Andrew's and St. Stephen's, and in the summer season l)y steam
along the coast. Another great road has been opened between St. An-
drew's and Fredcricton. Those works and the bridges across the rivers
have been made by the Province at great expense, end require annual
grants to keep them in repair. Every settlement has its road ; but
many of them are hilly and bad : they are too numerous to be kept in
good repair by a scattered population.

Almost the whole of the northern part of the County of Charlotte
remains in a wilderness state. It is true that advances upon the forest
are made yearly ; but much time must elapse before the descendants of
the present inhabitants will be sufficiently numerous to clear and occupy
the whole area of the district. Although the interior is broken by
mountains and hills, there are good tracts of land, with fertile inter-
vales along the courses of the streams. Many such tracts still remain
ungranted, and might be cheaply obtained by emigrants. The industry
of the mainland parishes is divided between agriculture, lumbering, and
fishing. The former of those pursuits is most safe and certain in its
reward.

The remaining parishes include the British islands on the coast. The
whole of Passamaquoddy Bay is studded with islands, which are said
to be 3G5 in number. Many of these islands are merely rude masses
of rock, or small eminences covered with moss and stunted spruce.
The larger ones have a soil of medium quality, and produce excellent
potatoes, barley, and oats. During the summer or fishing season, the
bay presents an interesting spectacle. Boats and vessels becalmed are
swept away by the rapid tide. At one instant they are hidden by some
blackened rock, at another they are seen gliding from behind the green

NEW URUN8W1CK.

135

foliage of some little island. Sonietiineu hiuidrods of boats are huddled
together, their crews being actively engaged in drawing forth the linny
inhabitants of the deep. As soon as the shoal of fisli retreats, or the
tide is imfuvourftble, they disperse, and the surface of the water is
decorated with their white and red sails. The Indian, in his frail bark
canoe, without a rope or anchor, is also there, and the report of his
gun, discharged at the rising porpoise, is re-echoed umon^ the cliffs of
the shore. Flights of gulls hung over the glassy surface of the water,
which is here and there broken by a shoal of herring, or the spouting
grampus in search of his prey.

Grand Manan, one of the parishes of the County of Charlotte, is an
island situated twelve miles south from the main land of the American
State of Maine, in latitude 44° 46' North, and longitude 66° 49' West.
It is twenty-five miles long, and, upon an average, five miles in breadth.
Its north side presents a bold front of perpendicular precipices, from
two to four hundred feet in height. The opposite side slopes gradually
down to the sea, and is occupied by small villages, farms, and fishing
establishments. The higher part of the island is not inhabited, but
affords excellent timber for ship-building and other purposes. Along
the south side of the main island, there are a number of small islands,
sometimes connected with each other by reefs of rocks or bars of sand
that are covered by the sea at high- water. The open spaces between
the islands afford safe harbours for vessels. The soil in general, al-
though scanty, is fertile, and produces good crops of grain and pota-
toes. The shortness of the season is compensated by the quickness of
vegetation. Wheat ripens in the month of August. On the island there
are a church, two meeting-houses, a lighthouse, besides several small
mercantile establishments. There are 3,000 acres of cleared land, and
a population of upwards of 1,200 souls.

Fishing is the principal employment of the inhabitants, and Grand
Manan is a most valuable island for that branch of industry. Never-
theless, the business is not pursued with much spirit, and ten times the
present number of English vessels and fishermen might be advantage-
ously employed.

From the abundance of fish, the Americans frequent the island and
its fishing-grounds in great numbers. Their vessels are an)ply fitted

136

NEW BRUNSWICK.

out, and the superior skill and energy of their crews give them a great
advantage over the British inhabitants, upon whose rights they encroach
with impunity. This subject will be treated of more at large in the
chapter on the Fisheries.

Campo Bello, another island parish, is separated from the American
town of Lubec by a narrow passage. It is about eight miles long, and
upon an average not more than two miles wide. It has two fine har-
bours — Harbour De Lute and Welchpool. At the latter place there
is a pretty village. The island is owned by Capt. Owen, R. N., and
contains about 800 inhabitants, who are terants to the proprietor.
There are gt.>od herring-fisheries upon the shores. Cod, pollock, had-
dock, and other kinds of fish are taken, and often carried over the Line
and sold to the Americans in an uncured state. The great facilities for
smuggling along this part of the American line are not overlooked by
the inhabitants.

A third parish comprises the remainder of the inhabited islands, and
is called West Isles. Deer Island is twelve miles long and three miles
in breadth, and partially cultivated. Indian Island has a good fishing
establishment. Jouet's Island, the residence of a Collector of Her
Majesty's Customs, contains only four acres. The Wolves are six
small islands, situated about ten miles from the coast ; one of them is
occupied by a single family, and the group is well known for having
been the scene of many shipwrecks. The White Horse is a lofty mass
of trap rock ; and the White, Green, Spruce, Cherry, and Casco Bay
Islands are small eminences of little importance. A number of vessels are
owned at the inhabited places above mentioned, and employed in deep-
sea fisling; and upwards of eight hundred persons are engaged in the
catch alo ig the shores. But, with all the apparent industry of the scat-
tered population, there is evidently a defect in their system of employ-
ment, and the fisheries of the bay and islands contribute far less to the
commerce of the Province than might be expected from such valuable
resources. Lighthouses have been erected on the principal headlands
of the coast and islands, but their lights are less brilliant than those
along the American shores.

■ ■ t'S

a great

ncroach

in the

NEW BRUNSWICK.

137

< - County of Westmoreland.

This extensive county is bounded on the south by Chignecto Bay
and Cumberland Basin, and joins Nova Scotia on the south-east by a
narrow peninsula. It extends along the shore of Northumberland
Straits to the north-east. Northward it meets Kent, and westward
King's and Queen's Counties. It contains eleven parishes, the bounda-
ries of which have not been properly defined. The present population
is not less than 19,000. There are 100,000 acres of cleared land, in-
cluding 7,590 acres of diked marsh. The county contains 1,312,000
acres. A new county has lately been set off from Westmoreland, called
Albert ; but as its boundaries are not yet settled, I have included its
description in that of the ancient district. The general features of West-
moreland are very different from those of the Counties of St. John or
Charlotte. Excepting the eminence called Shepody Mountain, it is
not elevated ; the surface being varied by swelling oval ridges, gentle
slopes, and wide shallow valleys. The lands of the eastern parishes
are low and level. There are a few small lakes, and occasionally peat
bogs and swamps ; beyond these and a few small tracts of sandy
ground, the entire surface is capable of being rendered fertile, and the
chief part of the whole district is covered by a rich and productive soil,
to which are added large tracts of marsh that have been rescued from
the sea by embankments. The south side of the county is deeply in-
dented by Shepody Bay and Cumberland Basin ; the former receives
the Peticodiac, which waters almost the whole of the western parishes.
That river is navigable for vessels of a hundred tons burden thirty-three
miles, and the tide flows inland thirty-six miles. Twenty-six miles
from its mouth, it makes a sudden turn at a right angle called the
Bend,* where the tide flows in and ebbs off in six hours. The flood-
tide makes its first ingress in a tidal wave, or bore, which, at high tides,
is sometimes six feet in elevation. Timber and deals are exported from
the Peticodiac, and large ships are built near the Bend for the English
market. The river also affords a good shad-fishery. The Tantamarre and
Aulac are smaller streams, whose estuaries have been filled up by allu-
vial matter now forming the great marshes of that part of the country.

* Named by tlie Frencli, Petit Coude (Little Elbow), whence is derived
Piticodiac, frequently called by tha inhabitants Pcltycoatjuck.

II Vn

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138

NEW BRUNSWICK.

The Parish of Dorchester, the shire town, is stretched along the east
side of the Peticodiac, between the Bend and Sackville. It is thickly
populated on the banks of the rivers and borders of the ri.arshes. A
large village, with an Episcopal Church, Court-house, and several hand-
some private buildings, stands on the side of a hill sloping towards the
mouth of the Memramcook, where tnere is an excellent harbour with a
Custom-house. The public business of the county is transacted at the
above village. The exports from the harbour are very limited. Both
banks of the Memramcook were originally settled by French Acadians,
whose descendants still enjoy the possessions of their forefathers. On
the west side of the stream they have a large chapel, and the place is
the resort of a few families of Micmac Indians, who receive instruction
and aid from the resident Roman Catholic Missionary. The east side
of the Peticodiac, to the distance of twelve miles above its entrance, is
also occupied by these people ; and a pretty village has received its name
in commemoration of Monsieur Belleveaux, who lived to the advanced
age of one hundred and ten years. The parish contains valuable quar-
ries of gypsum, freestone, grindstone, and strata of coal ; and its fine
alluvial marshes and strong uplands are favourable for the pursuits of
husbandry.

The Parish of Sackville is situated between Dorchester and the Parish
of "Westmoreland, and borders upon Cumberland Basin. Its southern
part was first settled by the French. After they were driven from their
possessions here, and other parts of Acadia, their lands were immediately
occupied by the British, and they are now densely populated. The
great Tantamarre Marsh is situated on both sides of a nver of that
name, and is okj of the largest collections of fertile s i alluvium in
"British America, being twelve miles in length and four miles wide.
Its appearance in autumn, when dotted over with haystacks, is very
novel to the European visitor. The overflowing of the sea is prevented
by dikes thrown up on the margin of the rivers and across the creeks.*

* The creeks are filled with alternate layers of brushwood and marsh mud,
secured by piles. Through the lower part of the construction there is a shiice,
with a swinging gate or valve on the side next the sea, and which is closed by
the tide at its influx, and opened by the fresh water above after the tide has
retreated. Tlie work is called an aboilcau.

ng the east
t is thickly
jirshes. A
/eral hand-
owards the
)our with a
cted at the
ted. Both
I Acadians,
;hers. On
lie place is
instruction
le cast side
mtrance, is
id its name
B advanced
lable quar-
md its fine
pursuits of

the Parish
s southern
from their
imediately
ted. The
er of that
luvium in
lies wide.
1, is very
prevented
creeks.*

larsli mud,
is a sluice,
closed by
e tide has

NEW BRUNSWICK.

lao

This kind of land, when properly drained and brought under the influ-
ence of tillage, produces excellent crops oi wheat, oats, and grass, but
not potatoes : clover grows upon it luxuriantly ; yet from the great
quantity of marah owned by the upland proprietors, extensive lots
remain in an iminiproved state. The whole area is capable of producing,
under proper culture, five times the quantity of wheat or hay it now
yields. The uplands along the border of the marsh are chiefly under
cultivation ; they produce wheat, rye, oats, barley, Indian corn, and
potatoes, in great abundance. From the great supply of grass and hay,
the inhabitants raise many cattle ; their dairies also supply excellent
butter for the Halifax and St. John markets. At the head of the marsh
there is a tract of peat bog, floating bog, and small lakes, eight miles
long and two miles wide. The farms are laid out in ranges running
parallel to the marsh, and the whole face of the country presents a suc-
cession of flourishing villages, and a wide scene of agricultural industry,
adorned by the natural beauties of the place. In the richest part of the
district, the Methodist denomination have erected a large academy,
which, by the liberal donations of its supporters, is kept in useful
operation. The mercantile establishments at Sackville of Messrs. Crane
and Allisons, and others, also add to its importance. At Cape Meran-
guin there are valuable quarries of freestone and grindstones ; the latter
are shipped to the United States. New settlements are succeeding each
other in the more remote parts of the parish ; although wild lands may
still be purchased at a low rate, or from five shillings to ten shillings
per acre.

The Parish of Westmoreland extends from the boundary between
Nova Sotia and New Brunswick, in the form of a triangle, and across
the peninsula. It is less important and populous than cither of the two
parishes above described ; still it embraces much fertile land, and is varied
to meet the purposes of the farmer. The Auu j, a small stream, is also
skirted by marsh. A swelling ridge of land, called Point de Bute,
separates that river from the Misseguash, forming the boundary line
between the Provinces. Fort Beau-Sejour, now called Fort Cumber-
land, was erected on the south-western termination of the ridge, where
it commands the entrance of both streams. On it stand a church and
chapel, surrounded by fine farms and rich marshes. A certain locality

'•*.

,•

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A.; .a

140

NEW BRUNSWICr.

is called Bloody Ridge, from a sanguinary conflict that took place be-
tween a few loyalists and a party of rebels during the Revolutionary
war. The little fortress that was deemed so important in the early
history of the Province, and which was taken by Colonel Monctonin 1755,
is still preserved by the Government ; while Fort Moncton on the oppo-
site side of the latter river, its ancient rival, has been permitted to
crumble into decay. It has icng been proposed to open a canal across
the peninsula in the directioii of one of those rivers, from the head of
Cumberland Basin to Bay Verte, uniting thereby the Bay of Fundy and
the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; and several surveys have been made of
dilferent routes ; but none of them have prrved satisfactory, and the
contemplated introduction of railways into the Provinces will, no
doubt, draw away the attention of the people from that object.

Bay Verte, on the Gulf side of the Province, is a narrow and shallow
estuary, especially at its inner extremity.

The Gaspereau and Tignish, two small rivers emptying themselves into
the Bay, are frequently dry in the summer season. Those streams have
singular terraces thrown up along their borders by the pressure of the ice
during the floods of spring. Near the mouth of the former river are still
seen the remains of the fort built by M. La Come, who was sent from
Quebec with six hundred French soldiers to aid the Indians in their
attack upon the British settlements. The Bay terminates in a tract of
marsh, and a large settlement with fine farms is spread around the head
of the estuary. There are also two mercantile establishments which
conduct the trade of the place. Between Bay Verte and Sackville there
is a good road passing through the fine village of Joli Coeur; the
northern part of the parish is thinly settled, and the roads are bad.
Both wilderness and cleared lands may be purchased at low prices.
Fish are plenty along the shores.

Botsford Parish occupies the extreme north-eastern point of the Pro-
vince, called Cape Tormentine, which approaches Pr.nce Edward's
Island within a distance of twelve miles. Near the Cape there is a
large settlement, and scattered villages occupy the road that runs along
the coast. Great and Little Shemogne, and Tedish, and Aboushagau
Rivers, are small streams emptying themselves into Northumberland
Straits. At their mouths there are extensive settlements of Acadian

, «

NEW BRUNSWICK.

141

ok place be-
evolutionary
in the early
jtonin 1755,
on the oppo-
permitted to

canal across
1 the head of
if Fundy and
een made of
ory, and the
;es ■will, no
ject.

and shallow

jmselvps into
streams have
Lire of the ice
•iver are still
as sent from
ians in their
in a tract of
ind the head
nents which
ckville there

Coeur ; the
ds are bad.

low prices.

of the Pro-
2 Edward's
: there is a
t runs along
^boushagau
humberland

of Acadian

French — a quiet and industrious people. Their farms are small, yet they
are well cultivated ; and all their close villages, including the spacious
chapel and comfortable residences of the French clergy, have an air of
plain neatness. Agricultural and occasional fishing are the chief pursuits
of these contented people. The interior of the parish is unsettled, except
along the roads, which are bad. The surface is watered by numerous small
streams, and the soil, that bears spruce, hemlock, and different kinds of
maple and birch, is susceptible of cultivation ; many tracts are of an
excellent quality.

Shediac, another parish on the Gulf shore, is more populous than
Botsford, although it has less cleai-J land. It reaches from the harbour
of that name to the Bend of Peticodiac, and touches the County of
Kent to the north. The rivers are but small streams ; the land, low
and level. It is interspersed with small bogs, swamps, and sterile
sands ; yet there are some rich loamy tracts highly productive under
ordinary culture. Some pine still remains unfelled ; but spruce is
obtained in large supplies, and manufactured in saw-mills, of which there
are fifteen in operation.

The Harbour of Shediac is very safe and convenient ; but ships of
large size must enter it at full sea, on account of the shallowness of the
water. The tide rises four feet, and is much influenced by winds in the
Gulf of St. Lawrence. Near the entrance of the spacious basin there
are two beautiful islands. On the smallest of these are seen the remains
of a fortification and breastwork thrown up by the French immediately
after the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe in 1759. The west side
of the harbour is occupied by a series of thickly-populated villages,
the largest of which may be called the town. In one of the settlements
there are upwards of two hundred families of Acadians, and the largest
Roman Catholic Chapel in the Province. The English inhabitants
occupy the front of the harbour, where there is an Episcopal Church,
Meeting-house, two inns, stores, and a number of good private build-
ings. The trade of the place is limited, and the fisheries along the
coast make but a small return in proportion to their value. Oysters,
of excellent quality, are abundant, and form an article of export to
Canada and Nova Scotia. From the advantages enjoyed by the inhabit-
ants, and their frugality, the place is in a thriving condition ; and

t i

: I

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ri 'Si'-

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142

NEW BRUNSWICK.

although it partakes of the tameness of flat and level districts, the
scenery is very pleasing. Agriculture is pursued with some diligence,
and the employment of sea manure with calcined oyster-shells is highly
advantageous to lands naturally stubborn and meagre. Wild land
may be obtained from three to six shillings per acre. A line for
the before-mentioned canal has been proposed to run between the Bend
of the" Peticodiac and Shediac, and the character of the country is
favourable for the undertaking.

The next two parishes, Moncton and Salisbury, are situated north-
ward of the Peticodiac, above the Bend. A ridge of rather high land
extends through them from the south-west. They are intersected by
the Cocagne River, emptying itself into a harbour of the sam.e name in
the County of Kent. They have several fine new settlements, and the
former contains 2,000 acres of diked marsh. At the Bend there is a
small town, and the shipment of timber to Great Britain, with ship-
building, renders it a place of some. importance. Some of the farms
along the side of the river are well cultivated, and the main post-road
to St, John aftbrds facilities of communication with that place and the
western districts of the Province.* In the above parishes there are
large tracts of unoccupied lands, and sufficient space for 1,500 settlers.

Hillsborough is situated on the west and south side of the Petico-
diac, and drained by Coverdale River, Turtle and Weldone Creeks.
At the mouths of those streams there are large tracts of marsh, and
towards their sources they pass through fine intervales. A belt of
marsh also skirts the main river. This parish contains some land of
a superior quality, and the wilderness districts at the sources of the
creeks and on the border of Hopewell are admirably adapted for settle-
mt nt. They are most frequently covered with a heavy growth of hard
wood, in which is the maple, affording domestic sugar. Limestone and
gypsum are inexhaustible, grindstones are cut near the mouth of the
river, and coal appears at several localities. A succession of settlements
have been opened along the border of the Peticodiac, and, from the
fertile character of the soil, the parish is rapidly improving. The same

• Stage-coaches run between Dorchester and St. John, passing the Bend,
going «nd returning on alternate days.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

1445

strlcts, the
e diligence,
Is is highly
Wild land
A line for
n the Bend
country is

ated north-
r high land
jrsected by
me name in
its, and the
I there is a
with ship-
f the farms
n post-road
ace and the
s there are
DO settlers,
the Petico-
ine Creeks,
marsh, and

A belt of
)me land of
rces of the
i for settle-
wth of hard
le stone and
Duth of the
settlements
from the

The same

g the Bend,

remark will apply to Coverdjile. In Harvey the lands are more gra#
velly and stony.

Of late this wilderness part of the country has been brought into
notice on account of its excellent lands, and new villages are beginning
to be extended into the deep recesses of the forest. The Legislature
has endeavoured to remedy to some extent the great inconvenience of
the settler — the lack of roads ; yet many years will elapse before all
the good lands in this quarter will be taken up, unless they are sought
for by immigrants, many of whom have preferred heretofore to wander
through the United States, rather than make a resting-place upon the
best lands of New Brunswick.

The remaining parish of the county is Hopewell, which reaches along
the shore of Chignecto Bay until it meets the County of St. John at
Salisbury Cove. Its largest and most populous settlements are at
Shepody. The broad marsh on the sides of a river of that name con-
tains 5,000 acres, and a rapidly-increasing population are clearing
higher up the slopes, the bases of which belong to the older inhabitants
and their senior descendants. North of the largest village is an eleva-
tion called Shepody Mountain, the termination of a ridge of high ground
extending along the boundary of St. John from the south-west. Shel-
tered from the north winds by an elevated tract in the rear, and pos-
sessing a rich soil, this extensive settlement, with its marshes and new
clearings, presents a wide rural plain not surpassed in beauty by any
district in America. The Shepody River terminates in a pretty lake.
An opening has been made between the lake and the sea, in order to
allow the tide to flow in and cover a large boggy tract with alluvium.
New Horton, situated to the west of Grindstone Point and Island, is
also ^ fine settlement. No parish in the Province is in a more flourish-
ing condition than Hopewell, and none offers scenery more interesting
to the visitor. The exports from the district consist of grindstones and
flagstones, sent to Boston and New York ; and butter, cheese, beef,
pork, and agricultural produce, to the market at St. John. Cape En-
rage, at the southern extremity of the parish, is a bold promontory..-''^/
with a lighthouse on its summit.

There still remain in the county large tracts of ungranted land. The
best of them are situated at the heads of Pollet and Covcrdale Rivers,

■/

144

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Turtle Creek,* and tlie sources of the Washadamoak. The soil at those
places, in general, is a sandy loam. The high and low intervales are
alluvial. There are also fertile wild tracts in the eastern parishes. The
marshes are capable of great improvement. At some situations, after
they are diked and drained, they settle, until they become lower than
the banks of the rivers where the alluvium is constantly collecting.
From those causes, the inner margin of the marsh is overflown by
fresh er d'lnng a part of the season, and is thereby rendered unpro-
ductiv. Th : Hest remedy for such an effect is to allow the muddy
tides to iiow in ix n'n over the low lands, whereby they will be elevated
through the falling down of alluvial matter contained in the salt water.
This plan of renovating diked marsh has been pursued at Sackville with
success. Within a few past years, it has been discovered that sea allu-
vium, or marsh mud, is an excellent manure for dry sandy lands : its
application to such lands has become very general in Nova Scotia,
where it produces fine crops of wheat, potatoes, and grass. Limestone
and gypsum may be quarried in the western parishes ; but they have
not been employed generally as manures, and improvements in agricul-
ture are but slowly introduced.

The great number of streams that penetrate the whole district not
only water its surface, but afford great facilities for manufacturing
objects. The present number of grist-mills in the county is 56 ; saw-
mills, 190 ; coal, limestone, gypsum, freestone, grindstone, with man-
ganese and other minerals, have been discovered. With all those
resources, the County of Westmoreland possesses the elements of in-
dustry capable of sustaining twenty times its present population, and
whether considered in reference to its agricultural advantages, manu-
facture, or fisheries, it is an important and valuable district.

• In 1843, large tracts of these lands were surveyed into lots of 100 acres
each, and a credit on 50 acres was offered to every actual settler, the price of
the land being 3s. 3d. currency per acre. From a depressed state of business
at St. John, upwards of 100 mechanics and the same number of common la-
bourers started for the woods, and commenced clearings : but an increased
demand for their labour in the city afterwards induced a number of thein to
return to their former avocations, and the benevolence of the Government has
not obtained its object.

NKW UIIUNSWICK.

145

Dil at those
ervales are
ishes. The
tions, after
lower than

collecting,
erflown by
;red unpro-
the muddy
be elevated
: salt water.
3kville with
lat sea allu-
f lands : its
[ova Scotia,

Limestone
t they have
s in agricul-

district not
mufacturing
is 56 ; saw-
with man-
all those
nents of in-
flation , and
iges, manu-

of 100 acres
the price of
e of business
common la-
an increased
r of the in to
vernment has

King's County ^

Situated northward of St. John, joins Westmoreland on the north-cast.
Queen's on the north-west, and Charlotte on the south-west. It con-
tains 819,920 square acres, of which upwards of 70,000 acres arc
cleared. The population in 1840 was 14,404; at the present time it
will exceed 15,000. It contains nine parishes, — Kingston, Sussex,
Hampton, Norton, Westficld, Springfield, Greenwich, Studholm, and
Upliani. The lines of the pari->hes have not been surveyed. A part of
the county lies on the west side of the River St. John, which at short
periods in every year cannot be crossed in safety. 1 sV ^pe and divi-
sion into parishes are very inconvenient for the inhabita its. A chain
of high lands extends from the south-west through tue entire length of
the county, giving it a mountainous aspect ; and almost the whole area
of the district is interspersed by hills, steep declivities, and narrow
ravines walled in by clifl's. There are, notwith nding, level valleys
between the mountains and hills, affording space for easy cultivation.
The soil in such situations is excellent. It is also good on the acclivi-
ties ; and even the tops of the highest hills, except where they are
occupied by rocks, aftbrd rich pastures. The broken and uneven sur-
face, channelled out in valleys, or indented by the arms of the river,
affords a great variety of bold and imposing scenery, and gives a wild-
ness to its features not to be seen in the eastern districts.

About two miles above the Falls, the St. John throws out a beautiful
navigable sheet of water called the Kenebecasis,* eighteen miles long,
with a medium breadth of two miles. A river of the same name meets
the Peticodiac, and having descended westward through a beautiful
cultivated valley, its divided mouth surrounds Darling's Island and
opens into the bay. Hammond River, another stream, comes in from
the south-east, and waters a tract in that quarter. The Kenebecasis
River is divided into four small branches, — the Mill-stream, Smith's
Creek, Salmon River, and Trout Creek : all those streams afford faci-
lities for the transportation of timber, and sites for flour and saw mills.
There are several shipbuilding establishments on the border of the

; i

* Little Kenehec, in the Meliecte Indian dialect.

I' '

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ii 'leii

I 'Vf

i'^l :

'I lllii'

J:,; I

^ II ! I

I i ' !

I I

i /i

H«

NEW IJllUNSWiCK.

bay, wliencc timber, dcala, and !i<^ricultnral produce are transported in
large boats to Indian Town and St. John.

Belle Isle, another lake-like branch of the St. John, connnunicates
with the main river twenty-eight miles above the city. It extends to the
north-east, and receives small streams from Kingston and Springfield.
The valley of the Kcncbecasis is bounded in Sussex by Piccadilla and
Pisgah, two eminences that are elevated each 400 feet above the ordi-
nary level of the district. Bull Moose Hill, in the parish of Springfield,
is nearly GOO feet high, and contains a rich deposit of iron ore. A
large valley extends from the head of Belle Isle Bay, in a north-easterly
direction, to the source of the Washadamoak. It will average from
two to four miles in breadth, and is upwards of fifty miles in length.

On the west side of the St. John, in this county, another stream,
called the Nerepis, descends from the north-west, and, to the distance
of twelve miles, passes through a belt of intervale and marsh. A large
tract of this land was owned by the late General Coffin, and is known
as a part of Coffin's Manor. On each side of that stream, the moun-
tains rise to greater elevation. Douglas Mountain, the Eagle Cliff's,
and other hills of the rocky al])ine range, add great sublimity to the
scenery of the Nerepis. There are also many small lakes scattered
over the surface, and frequently situated far above the level of the
rivers. One of the most remarkable of these is the Pickwaakeet, a few
miles eastward of Kingston. Its character is that of an extinct crater,
and the adjoining rocks are of volcanic origin.

Kingston, the shire town, is a romantic and very pretty village, situ-
ated among the hills, and on a branch of the Belle Isle Bay. It has a
Church. The Court-house and Gaol are built of granite. The land in
its vicinity is much broken. The soil is nevertheless good, and the
district well improved. Near the village is a cloth manufactory, which
reflects credit upon its proprietor. The parish comprises the peninsula
between the Kenebecasis and Belle Isle Bays. A road encircles this
point of land. The shores are settled ; and many fine farms have been
cleared, and are now cultivated, in the interior of the parish. There is
an extensive settlement at Milkish Creek, and others opposite Gondola
Point, also eastward of Kingston village.

Sussex, the most populous parish of the county, was first settled by

isportefl in

mnunicatcs
ends to the
Springfield,
jcndillii and
/c the ordi-
Springfield,
•on ore. A
irth-casterly
veragc from
in length.
;her stream,
the distance
3h. A large
nd is known
, the moun-
Eaglc Cliffs,
limity to the
cs scattered
cvcl of the
aakeet, a few
xtinct crater.

village, situ-
It has a
The land in
od, and the
ictory, which
le peninsula
encircles this
ns have been
n. There is
site Gondola

rst settled by

NEW nUUNSU'ICK.

147

the American Lf)yftlistH, and contains not less than 2,500 inhabitants.
It is situated on both sides of the Kenebecasis River, and occupies the
chief part of the valley before mentioned, called Sussex Vale. This is
one of the best agricultural districts in the Province. In ascending the
river, the traveller readily perceives the narrow plat of alluvial soil
along the course of the stream, which, like two rising grounds on each
side, has been brought under cultivation. At the principal village of
Sussex, the valley widens, and sends out branches to the north and
south. The whole surface is closely settled. A wide tract, bounded
by the forest-covered hills, is occupied by fertile fields and meadows,
adorned by trees and country seats, that give an ancient appearance,
and indicate u degree of case and comfort not always seen in a new
country. This village is intersected by the main road between Halifax
and St. John. It contains a Post-office, two Churches, and other houses
of worship. Two salt springs have been discovered ; they sui)i)ly
about fifty gallons of water per minute. Every hundred gallons yields,
by evaporation, a hundred bushels of very pure salt. A small salt
manufactory has been established at the site ; but, from the low price
of foreign salt, it is not profitable, and the works have fallen into
decay. Gypsum and limestone are abundant. Roads have been
opened to the surrounding now settlements, and improvements arc
steadily advancing. Between Siissex Vale and the head of the Peti-
codiac River, there is a large tract of excellent land still remaining un-
settled ; and other parts of the parish offer many advantages to immi-
grants, or young men who are attached to husbandry. A single spring
in this parish supplies sufficient water for a powerful flour-mill, and
great masses of beautiful crystals of sulphate of lime are daily forming
in a piece of low swampy ground.

Smith's Creek, a branch of the Kenebecasis, runs in a north-east
direction from Sussex Vale, and meets the Anagance, a branch of the
Peticodiac. It passes through a tract of fine intervale. Walled in
on each side by high hills, after it diverges from the main stream, it
winds its way through a narrow valley, having Mount Pisgah at its
confluence with Salmon River. The soil in this quarter is very
fertile. Occasionally small tracts of light sand occur, covered with

L 2

<it

II-;

; ^I'ii

' i{' I'

:l 'Hi ii

ii i

NKW DRUNSVVICK.

peat from four to ten feet in thickness. Near the source of the stream,
there arc two salt springn.

The Mill Stream, another branch of the above river, after extending
tbroii};^!! a notch in the hills northward of Sussex, proceeds along u
broad trough until its branches are interwoven with those of the Washa-
damoak. This trough-like valley surpasses in size Sussex Vale, and
extends from the head of Belle Isle Jiay directly across the coimtry to
the parish of Salisbury, in Westmoreland, and falls away in the low,
level land of the Gulf shore. Between the valley of the Kenebecasis
and Belle Isle, there is a moderately elevated tract of land, called
Butternut Ridge, numing along the parish of Studholm. The soil on
this ridge is also of a superior quality, and limestone is abundant.
Wheat and other kinds of grain return excellent crops. The forest
consists of beautiful groves of beech, birch, and sugar maple, inter-
mixed with butternut trees. The lower grounds are occupied by
cedar thickets, and along the upland hollows the elm and ash add to the
beauty of the forests. The parish of Springfield possesses a soil equally
productive ; and, besides a series of fine farms spread along the borders
of the bay and rivers, it has some thriving new settlements a little re-
mote from the shores. Between the before-mentioned valley and the
Washadamoak, there are several new settlements of English and Irish
immigrants, who, having overcome the first obstacles of settling in a
new country, are now gaining an honest independence.*

Except on the margins of the largest streams, the population is
scattered here and there, according to individual fancy. Thousands of
acres of the rich lands in this part of King's County are still \mgranted,
and scarcely known to any but the lumberman or the Indian hunter.

From the highest hill of Springfield, the eye may wander over the
wild forests, which, in a north-east direction, are still unbroken. One

• A number of these immigrants landed in the Province from eight to four-
teen years ago, without any means of subsistence. Parents carried their cliil-
dren upon their backs into the country, and lived in shanties, among the trees,
upon the most humble fare. By their industry, they afterwards paid for their
lots, cleai'ed away the forest, made farms, and now drive their waggons to the
market at St. John loaded with the surplus produce of their fields.

,!i -I

I ii

i :|

NKW nUUNSWICK.

140

5 stream,

xtoiulinf?

along u
c Washa-
/"alo, and
:)untiy to
the low,
ncbecasis
id, called
[\c soil on
ibundant.
['be forest
)lc, intcr-
;upied by
ndd to the
lil equally
he borders
p, little ro-
py aiul the

and Irish
tiling in a

Illation is
ousands of
ungranted,

hunter.

r over the

en. One

ight to fonr-
d their chil-
ig the trees,
aid for their
;ons to the

vast, rich, and variegated assemblage of forebt- trees waves proudly over
the earth, lik" wheat before the harvest. The valley of the Belle
Isle, and Studville, with its scattered settlements and farms, shows
where the industry of man is employed, and which, from year to year,
is notching the dark and silent groves with cultivated fields 'ind rich
meadows.

The Parishes of Norton and Hampton are sittiatod on the south-west
side of the Kenobecasis Bay and River. Along the St. John and
Halifax Road, and the sides of the rivers, they are well improved. At
Hampton Ferry a bridge has been thrown across the river, and a pretty
village, with an Episcopal Church, has sprung up within the space of a
few years. A large settlement, with a Church, also appears near Gon-
dola Point, opposite Kingston, where the whole stiore is a succession
of fine farms ; and the beautiful islands at the head of the bay are
either under the operations of the plough, or produce beneath their
trees crops of wild hay — the natural produce of all the intervales.
Hammond River runs through a fine plat of alluvial soil, skirted with
some good farms, and rushes through a narrow rocky gorge, a little
way above its bridge, and the cultivated district at its mouth. Along
the sides of the stream there are limestone, gypsum, and salt springs.
Graphite, or plumbago, of a superior quality, has also been found in
the rocks of the hills.

Westfield and Greenwich are on the west side of the St. John, and
contain some of the settlements on the road leading from Carlton to
Fredericton. Wlierever clearings have been made, roads have been
opened, and the cultivated districts are intersected by them in every
direction. Salmon and trout are taken in all the rivers. Lumbering
is not carried on very extensively in this coiuity, agriculture being the
chie^ employment of the inhabitants ; and the encouragement afforded
by thv. markets at St. John has brought a part of the soil into a
tolerabl'' state of cultivation. But the cleared land, compared with the
whole area of the district, is very limited ; and the wilderness tracts of
the county offer to immigrants, or farmers of any capital, a wide and
profitable field of labour.

Mil

ir>o

NliW BRUNSWICK.

.5:

i \

If
11

■I t

Queen s Count//
Joins Kiiif's on tlie soutli-cast, Norlliunibcrland on tlu; north, Sunbuiy
nortli-wcst, and Charlotte sonth-cast. It lies on both sides of the St.
Jolin, bfing intersected by that noble stream across the whole of its
south-eastern extremity. It contains 901,280 square acres of land, in
nine parishes ; namely, Gagetown, Canning, Wiekham, Watcrborough,
Brunswifk, Ilampstcad, Johnston, Petersville, and Chipman. Two
important tributaries of the St. John, the Washadamoak and Salmon
River, traverse the wliole north-eastern part of the county. The
former makes its dcbouchement forty miles above the City of St. John ;
thelattcr empties itself into the Grand Lake, whose otitlet, the Gemsec,
is about eight miles higher up. The lower part of the Washadamoak,
from the stillness of its waters, may be called a lake, which is thirty-
five miles long, with an average breadth of half-a-mile. The o\itlet is
a narrow but deep channel, on the south side of the Musquash Island,
a flat intervale bearing lofty trees of maple, ash, and elm. It is navi-
gable for large vessels to the above distance. In the spring and autumn,
boats and rafts of timber descend the lake and river from a distance of
sixty miles, or from the head of Cocagne River, which empties itself
into the Qulf of St. Lawrence. The front lots on both sides of the liikc
are chiefly taken up ; but in the rear, the lands are still in a wilderness
state, and many tracts remain ungrantcd. The Parish of Wiekham in
1840 contained only 1G8 inhabited houses. On its western side, how-
ever, small settlements have been opened, and are now in a thriving
state. A larf'^e tract of Crown land is not surveyed, nor even occupied
by the squatter — the best pioneer in a new country. The soil is a red
sandy loam, frequently reposing on clay, or a dark chocolate- coloured
alluvitim, very friable and fertile. The river, and some new roads re-
cently opened, aflford facilities of conmuiication ; yet these lands are un-
occupied, merely because the population of the Province is too limited
to cultivate even the richest ground, and too scanty to cultivate well
what is already cleared of its native timber. Nearer the sources of the
river, there is a flourishing settlement called New Canaan.* At that

* This is a favourite name for n village in the Provinces ; but its frequent
application has rendered it inconvenient, as the land of Canaan is now to be
found in almost every part of the country.

lilf !ii

NEW BRUNSWICK.

151

Simbury
)f the St.
ole of its
f land, in
rl)orougli,
m. Two
d Salmon
:y. The \
St. John ;
) Gem sec,
adamoak,
is thirty-
3 outlet is
i\\ Island,
[t is navi-
[1 autumn,
listance of
ties itself
f the lake
tvilderncss
ickliam in
iide, how-
a thriving
I occixpied
>il is a red
> coloured
• roads re-
ds are un-
00 limited
ivate well
CCS of the
At that

ts frequent
s now to be

l)lace the stream is skirted by intervale ; and although the xipland soil
is light and sandy, it is by no means unproductive. The whole surface
is low and level, excepting a few gentle undulations along the courses
of the brooks and rivulets. At the head of the riv«r, where it ap-
proaches the Cocagne, there are wide carriboo plains and peat bogs,
surrounded by tracts bearing groves of pine and spruce. The above
settlement was commenced upwards of forty years ago, and it is now a
thriving village. Salmon and shad frecjuent the river at certain sea-
sons — trout remain all the year. The eastern route from Fredericton
to St. John is continued across the lake by a ferry nine miles from its
outlet, and, after passing through an Irish village, it proceeds to Belle
Isle Bay.

The next valuable channel of inland communication is the Grand
Lake, with its supplying stream, Salmon River. This beautiful sheet
of water is forty-five miles from St. John, ard thirty miles from. Fre-
dericion. It is thirty miles long, and from three to nine miles broad,
being seporated from the main river by a collection of alluvium a mile
wide, and communicating with the St. John by a narrow and deep
channel, the Gemsec, which, by running obliquely to e river, is
nearly four miles in length. It is also connected with French and
Maquapit Lakes by similar channels, oiJcned through the alluvium
forming the intervales. All these lakes and channels are navigable.
The Gemsec and its fort were objects of much interest in the early
history of tiie country, the latter having been an arsenal for the French
and Indians, and the theatre of several desperate conflicts.

The Salmon River extends from the northern extremity of the
Grand Lake, in a south-east direction, to the sources of the Richibucto.
It is navigable at its mouth for vessels of considerable size, and for
canoes and timber rafts to its sources, extending through a level tract
of wilderness land. Only a few clearings have been made at its lower
part, notwithstanding the stream is much frequented by lumbermen.
Coal mines have been worked at its mouth, by a Company formed at
St. John for the purpose ; but they are not very profitable at the present
time. A mine is also open at the mouth of Newcastle River, and sup-
plies Fredericton and Gagetown with coal. The Ocnabog is a small
lake on the west side of the St. John, and opens into the river at Long

.^i

152

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Island. With such advantages of water transit, the county is des-
tined to increase in value, and to supply from its fertile uplands and
intervales great quantities of agricultural produce, and from its forests
timber for exportation.

Gagetown is very pleasantly situa*^'Hl on the south bank of a creek,
nearly opposite the mouth of the Gemsec, and is the shire town of the
county. Tt contains an Episcopal Church, Grammar-school, Court-
house, and Gaol, with a number of handsome buildings and country
seats. Passcngt's from the river steamers are landed in boats. From
the town, roads diverge across the country to Fredericton, Oromucto,
Nerepis, and other places ; and it is a shipping place for the produce of
the district. The banks of the St. John are here pretty thickly popu-
lated, and in the rear there are a number of thriving villages. But,
notwithstanding clearings are made annually, and patches are cultivated
on the road-sides, there are large tracts of unoccupied land, being
between Gagetown and the Oromucto, and Gagetown and the Nerepis,
or main post-road leading from St. John to Fredericton. Parts of those
tracts have been surveyed by the Government into lots of 100 acres
each ; and, from their proximity to Gagetown, Oromucto, and St.
John, they are advantageously situated for settlement. The soil in
general is a brown or yellow loam, mixed with sand or gravel, and
frequently covered with vegetable mould : beds of sand and gravel
sometimes occur. The forests are not dense, nor altogether uninter-
rupted by plats of intervale, and small open meadows bearing wild
grass. The timber, for the greater part, is pine and spruce- ; yet there
are strips bearing sugar maple, birch, elm, ash, and a few oaks. The
Nerepis Road is settled along a considerable part of its line, and has a
Roman Catholic Chapel and two Meeting-houses. Near the Oromucto,
it passes through a pine forest that has been destroyed by fire. Tracts
have also been surveyed southward of the Nerepis Road, and a few of
the lots are occupied by Irish immigrants. Towards the Nerepis
Mountains and Ocnal)og, the lands are more broken and stony. At
Cooc Hill, eighteen miles from Gagetown, there is a flourishing settle-
ment ; and, a little farther cast, a village called New Jerusalem. The
hill contains a thick deposit of iron ore. A few families clustered to-
gether will be found on different parts of the unsettled districts. Shirley

NEW 1411UN:SW1CK.

1 '''^'

is dcs-
nds and
s forests

a creek,
n of the
, Court-
country
From
romucto,
oduce of
Ly popu-
s. But,
ultivated
A, being
Nerepis,
3 of tliose
00 acres
and St.
e soil in
ivel, and
a giavel
uninter-
rnig wild
et there
The
d has a
oniucto,
Tracts
a few of
Nerepis
ny. At
ir scttle-
The
tcred to-
Shirley

and Gordon are fine clearings ; but they bear a diminutive proportion
to the extent of the wilderness lands around them. The surveys made
of Crown tracts will no doubt promote th*^ occupation of good lands,
which may be purchased from the Government for 3s. 3d. per acre
currency. The increase of the present scanty population is altogether
inadequate to general improvement ; and, unless by the introduction
of immigrants, the district will long remain without having its resources
improved. With this view of the western part of Queen's County,
efforts have been made by the Provisional Government and individuals
to extend agriculture beyond its present 'jounds ; but the lack of a
proper class of settlers has retarded their operations, and the advances
of husbandry against the wilderness are slow in their progress.

Between Gagetown and the head of the Long Reach, the sides of the
St. John are pretty thickly settled and well cultivated. The river runs
smoothly along, and encircles Long Musquash and other fine islands of
alluvium, the most elevated of which are under cultivation, and pro-
duce admirable crops, although they are not planted until after the
subsidence of the spring freshets. At the upper part of that straight
and narrow portion of the river called the Long Reach, and near the line
between King's and Queen's Counties, valuable quarries of granite
were discovered during the geological survey of the Province ; and
roofing-slate may be obtained at situations a little remote from the
shore.

The scenery of this part of the St. John during the summer is ex-
tremely interestiiig. Steamboats and small craft are seen gliding over
the surface of the water, and seem to be sailing through groves of trees,
and, in autumn, among the stacks of hay scattered over the intervale —
which is made sdll more pleasing by the half-shadowed cottage and the
spire of the village church. In winter, when the water is covered by a
thi^k garment of ice, the route of the steamboat is taken up by sleighs
and sleds of every description, and the river seems to be the scene of
ammement.

The Parish of Waterborough extends along the cast side of the Grand
Lake, and has a road from the Gemsec to Cumberland Bay. At the
outlet cf the lake, there is a pretty village with a neat church. Tlie
chief part of the inhabitants, liowever, are scattered about the shore.

■■•J^.*^.

Jtl '

iii

151

NEW BRUNSWICK.

and in the neighbourhood of Coal Creek. The whole country north-
ward is almost in a wilderness state, and the lands are ungranted : the
forests are thick, but not altogether unbroken ; opening rather at some
places into tracts of wild meadow, or grounds relieved of underbrush.
Canning embraces the lands of the opposite shore, which, at it", lower
part, is settled by a number of Scotch families, who arc fast increasing
in numbers and property. There is also a village, near the entrance of
Newcastle River, where a stratum of coal has been worked for several
past years. Although the soils are fertile, the northern extremity of the
lake is but thinly settled, and the back lands are ungranted. The lake
supplies salmon, shad, bass, and gaspereau, during the months of May
and June. Upon its borders there are two Episcopal Churches and
three Meeting-houses. Almost every stream is occupied by a saw-mill,
and there are plenty of logs to keep them in operation. It has been
proposed to run a line of railway between this inland water and Richi-
bucto, or to convert the Salmon and Richibucto Rivers into a canal by
the construction of locks : partial surveys have been made for those
objects ; but the contemplated railway between Halifax and Quebec
will materially change the prospects of such an enterpri:?;'.

Maquapit Lake is about five miles in length, and two in breadth.
During the floods of spring and autumn, it overflows ; and French
Lake, a mile farther west, with the Grand Lake, and all the intervales
that separate them from the Si, ,;ohn, in the drier months of summer
are covered by water. The passages between those lakes are sufficiently
deep to admit large boats and rafts of timber. The channel, called the
thoroughfare, between Maquapit and French Lakes, is three miles long,
and wends its Avay through a grove of large elm, birch, and maple trees.
The white oak that formerly grew on the shores of these lakes has been
cut down, and almost wantonly destroyed. The uplands are light and
sandy, or in the low spruce ground the soil is too wet for general
cultivation.

The Parish of Brunswick contains the few settlers at the na'th-
.^astern extremity of the county, whose number by the last censui? was
only 220. Almost the entire surface of this parish is shaded by a
trackless fore; ■, ; and some parts of it have not been visited even by the
lumbermen. At the sources of the streams thcK! arc patches cf inter-

■^^m■i:'/^im

<^'

the P

■ 4ii'AV.C/'^^-'^^

-t :;'/■;", JiJ^P:^^

BiBMS^Wfit'

y north-
ted : the

at some
[crbrush.
its lower
icreasing
trance of
»r several
ity of tbe
The lake
s of May
robes aiul

saw-niiU,
has been
lid Ricbi-
i canal by

for those
d Quebec

1 breadth,
lid French

intervales
If summer
;ufRciently

called the

liles long,
|aple trees,
has been
light find

or general

Lhe na'th-

Icnsus was

jided by a

ven by the

vf inter-

NEW liRUNSWlCK.

155

vale and large swamps : tlie higher grounds, so far as they have been
examined, appear to be a mixture of alluvial clay, loam, and sometimes
sand. The timber grows in alternate belts of the hard and soft woods :
of the former, there is much yellow and white birch ; the latter consists
of pine, spruce, hemlock, larch, &c. The swamps aboimd in black and
white ash and elm.

From the abundance of wood, the scattered inhabitants of the remote
divisions of the county are principally engaged in felling and transport-
ing squared timber and logs, for which the number and extent of the
rivers and lakes aftbrd great facilities. This kind of industry is always
opposed to agriculture, which is much neglected in such districts. It
is only along the main St. John, and upon its rich alluviums, that the
husbandry of Queen's is pursued with much care and skill. If the
capabilities of the soil in the newer settlements can be judged of under
an imperfect system of clearing and tillage, it must be very productive,
as it seldom fails to return a good crop when the seed is planted at the
proper season. The fresh-water fisheries afford luxuries rather than
objects of traffic ; and although carriboo deer and other kinds of game
are plentiful, the best farmers are neither fishermen nor hunters. The
great tracts of intervale and other grass lands in the county fit it for the
breeding of cattle and sheep, and some pains have been taken to im-
prove the breed of those animals. It will appear from the foregoing
descriptions, that the situation and physical resources of this part of
the Province are highly favourable to agriculture, and other kinds of
industry ; but it is here as elsewhere — too much is expected to be
performed by a scanty population, which, were it increased tenfold,
would be more wealthy in proportion to number, and happier in regard
to the institutions necessary for moival and mental improvement.

County of Sunbury.

Sinibury, the most limited comity in the Province in regard to area,
is situated between Queen's on the south-east, and York on the north-
west, and, like them, crosses the St. John. Its parishes are IMaugerville,
Shefiield, Burton, Lincoln, and Blissville. It cou^ains 782,080 square
acres, of which about 12,800 acres are cleared. The pojjulation by
i^ic 'lensus of 1840 was 4,260. Maugerville is the oldest English y^*-

. !

«!

i:.

wmmm

f^'\

150

NEW BRUNSWICK.

tleinent on the St. Joliii. In ] 70'<', a iiunibtv of families einij^'ratcd to
that place from Miissaclnisctf.3, ur\d obtained a grant of the township
from tlu; .British Government. Thoir nunihcr wiis afterwards increased
hy tlie addition of several families from New England and a few
Loyalif ts. Tlie Commission foi' holdinf,' a Court of Common Pleas ya
dat'^a in 1770; but after the arrival of the Loyalists in 1783, the Su-
preme Court was removed to St. John, and finally to Frederieton, the
present seat of Go^'ernment.* Maugervillc and Sheffield, on the north
side of the river, eontain a largo tract of very rich intervale, and em-
bi-ace a district of luxuriant fertility. In this county, the St. John
washes Oromucto, Middle, Ox, Manger's, and other Islands. Mauger's
Island is tliree miles long; and its well-cultivated farms and neat cot-
tages, shaded by forost-trees, afford some of the most delightful scenery
of e river. The muddv bunks near Ox and Oromucto Islands ren-
der the navigation of ilic stream somewhat intricate in the driest time
of summer. Excepting only a few of the highest knolls, all these
intervales, and tliose of the outlets of Grand, Maquapit, and French
Lakes, witli the islands and rivev borders above and below, are overflown
L) the spring freshets, and the whole valley of the St. John is over-
spread by the flood. In extrnordinary risings of the river, trees, logs,
rubbish, and sometimes stacks of hay and barns, are floated away. A
boat or canoe is attached to every house ; and to visit the cattle in their
stalh, the pig in the sty, and even the wood-pile, a water excursion is
necessary. Instiuices have frequently occurred when the iiduibitants
have bee;: compelled to flee to the liigh lands in order to escape the
threatening deluge ; and iamilics sometimes live in the upper stories of
their dwellings until the water is withdrawn from the lower apartments.
The "ivood employed for fences is collected in tliC autumn and secured
to iues ; but the inconvenience produced by these periodical inunda-
tion'^ is nbundantly compensated by the rich, muddy sediment, spread
annual]} over the land, which, like the borders of the Nile, is periodi-
cally irrigated ; and although the labours of the farmer are sometimes
retarded by the presence of the water until June, yet so beneficifd is
the eiFect of the flood, that in a few weeks the whole suritxce is mantled

* Notitia of New Brunswick.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

157

with exuberant vegetation. The islets that stud the river-bed are also
enriched ; and from the abundance of grass and hay thus produced by
them, the land proprietors feed large stocks of cattle and slioep,
which, like all their domestic animals, are well practised in the art of
swimming.

At Maugerville there is an Episcopal Church and Baptist Chnpel.
The Church of: the Seceders at Sheffield is the oldest house of worship
in the Province : it was ere cted at the former place, and afterwards
removed on the ice to its present site. The Methodists also have
Chapels in these parishes.

French and Maquapit Lakes are separated from the St. John by a
belt of intervale, through which there are openings that give passage
to boats, and the produce of the country. At French River there is
a settlement of thirty families, with a Church and Schoolhouse ; and
clearings are in progress at the mouths of the lesser streams. Gaspe-
reau, or alewives, and bass, are abundant in these waters. Salmon arc
now rare ; but trout of excellent flavour may be caught at any season
of the year. The northern portions of these parishes are in a wilderness
state — only a few small tracts have been granted. Much of the soil is
good, and well covered with pine, spruce, and other kinds of timber.

The principal river or tributary of Sunbury is the Oromucto, which
empties itself into the St. John twelve miles below Fredericton. At its
mouth it is deep and sluggish, affording thereby an excellent site for
shipbuilding. The stream takes its rise from two lakes in the County
of York, being navigable for small vessels to a distance of twenty miles,
and for canoes much farther. Being divided into several branches, it
waters a large tract of country, and affords many facilities for the
transportation of the natural productions of the wilderness. In other
seasons, the before-mentioned kinds of fish are plentiful.

At the mouth of the Oromucto, there is a large village, which is one
of the oldest permanent settlements in the country. The place was
originally a resort of the Indians, whose graves, with the relics they
contain, are sometimes exposed by the operations of the plough. Ships
of heavy burthen are built at this place, and the erection of a bridge
across the river, on the line of the main post-road between St. John

i'!

158

NEW D RUNS WICK.

and Fredericton, with the consequent increase of traffic, has greatly
added to its importance.

At the lower part of the river, there is a tract of law intervale not
uncovered by the water until the middle of summer. It yields grejit
quantities of wild grass, and supplies extensive grazing for cattle in
times of drought.

The south branch, near its sources, passes through a broad expanse
of high intervale. That this intervale wiis once the site of a lake, is
satisfactorily proved by the strata of fluviatile shells found in the soil
and underlying marly clay, which for their fertility are equal to any in
America. In and bordering upon this beautiful spot, there are upwards
of HJO farms, that seem like a little colony whose inhabitants have
been taught the art of self-f;overnmcnt, and who, if not disturbed by the
petty political jarrings of the world beyond the forests around them, will
long enjoy rural happiness and contentment. A rude path extends
from this settlement between the Nerepis Mountains to the main post-
road, and in its course passes a waterfall of one hundred feet. The
rugged alpine cliffs are piled up on every side, and dark and deep
gorges, overhung by leaning trees, render the pass one of exciting
interest.

Between the south branch settlement and the Nerepis Road, there
is a large tract of wild land, in part surveyed, and which might be
conveniently intersected by a cross road, and thereby opened for settle-
ment. A part of the woods has been destroyed by fire, and, from the
gloomy appearance of f'^e surface. It has been shunned by settlers :
nevertheless, the soil, of medium quality, has been fairly tested at the
Geary settlement. Between the south branch, through the Rusha-
gonis and Maryland settlements, to Hartt's Mills, and thence to Fre-
dericton, there is a good road, and agriculture is beginning to succeed
the more precarious business of lumbering. From Hartt's Mills there
is an obscure path through the wilderness to the Magaguadavic. The
high mountainous ridge previously noticed is here very conspicuous.
At its base there were formerly fine forests of pine ; but these also
have been destroyed by fire, and the lofty trees now stand leafless,
decayed, and ready to fall to the ground. A light growth of birch and

has greatly

itervale not
yields great
for cattle in

oad expanse
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litants have
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these also
nd leafless,
f birch and

NEW BRUNSWICK.

159

elder is succeeding them. Thus the district has suffered irreparable
loss, and much of its original beauty has faded away before the devour-
ing element.

The south-west branch, with its pretty lake, has a fine settlement ;
but the remote parts of the southern parishes, like those of the north,
arc still shaded by the indigenous forest.

The fine farms that slope towards the principal streams, and the rich
intervales attached to them, arc Divourable for pastures ; hence the
produce of the dairy, with beef, mutton, and pork, are sent in consi-
derable supplies to the market of St. John. A more extended notice
of this couiilry would be but to repeat ol'sorvations already supplied
for other places, and there is a sameness in the features of the district
not to be improved by minute description.

Count!/ of York.

Still ascending the river, we come to the County of York, a more
extensive district than either of the two last described. It is boiuuled
on the south-east by Sunbury, south-west by Charlotte, north-west by
Carlton, and north-east by Northumberland. Its parishes are Frede-
ricton, St. Mary, Douglas, Kingsclear, Queensbury, Prince William,
Southampton, and Dumfries. Notwithstanding a part of this county
is rather level, the valley of the St. John passes across it with a dimi-
nished breadth, being flanked by higher hills than those below. The
features of the country are ruder in their outlines, and a thinning off of
the population is manifest on the banks of the river.

Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, is in the parish of that
name, which reaches from Kingsclear to the boundary of Sunbury,
embracing a few scattered settlement, in its vicinity. It was formerly
called St. Ann's, and was made the seat of Government by Sir Guy
Carlton in 1785. It is eighty-five miles from St. John by water, and
was supposed to be at the head of navigation. Fredericton is ex-
tremely pleasantly situated upon a beautiful level and obtuse point of
land, formed bj' a bold curve on the south side of the stream, com-
manding a view of the river and the Nashwaak. A range of moderately
elevated hills bends around the southern side of the plain, two miles
long and half a mile wide. Thus encircled by the river and high

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ground, n fertile and well-cultivated trnct is occupied at its northern
extremity by the capital. The streets arc wide and parallel to each
other, and space is alf'urdcd by the abundance and cheapness of land to
favour the cultivation of gardens and the j)lanling of ornr. mental
trees, which have added much to the natural beauty of the situaiirn.
The inclined surfaces of the hills to the south arc also partially culti-
vated, and occupied by the College and a number of handsome cottages.
From these hills there is a fine view of the river, its intervales, and the
fields bordering upon the evergreen forest. Several of the public
buildings are of the best class. The Government House, the residence
of the Lieutenant-Governor, is a spacious stone building, situated at a
beautiful sjjot on the bank of the river, at the western extremity of the
town. King's ColU'ge is also a substantial building of freestone, and
of a chaste architecture. It is 170 feet long and GO feet wide, con-
taining 22 rooms for students, a chapel, two lecture-rooms, and ajTirt-
ments for the acconnnodation of the Vice-President and two Professors.
The Province Hall, in which the dilferent legislative bodies assemble,
is a plain wooden structure, yet very conrnodious. The Chamber of
the Legislative Council is finished in good tuste, and by no means with
a very scrupulo\is regard to economy. The Offices of the Provisional
Secretary and Crown-lands departments are built of stone. Besides
these, there arc an Episcopal Church, Scotch Church, Methodist Chapel,
Baptist Chapel, Roman Catholic Chapel, Collegiate and Madras
Schools, Baptist Seminary, iliree Banks, an Hospital, Almshouse,
Court-house, Gaol, and Market-house. The principal Barracks are
situated on the bank of the river, in the town ; they will accommodate
one fnousand infantry and a company of artillery. The quarters of the
officers open into a pretty square, surrounded by stately trees. Fre-
dericton has been visited by several conflagrations; in 1825, the
Government House, with one-third of the town, was laid in ruins. The
public institutions are three Banks, a Fire Insurance Comi)any, two
Mill and Manufacturing Companies, Public Library, Society for Pro-
moting Christian Knowledge, Church Society, Bible Association,
Wesleyan Missionary Society, Temperance and Abstinence Societies;
Societies of St. George, St. Andrew, and St. Patrick ; Savings' Bank,
Infant School, and other charitable associations. "

111

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It was supposed by Governor Carlton, after New Brunswick was
separated from Nova Scotia, that Fredericton, from its central position.
Was the most eligible site for the seat of Government, and head-quar-
ters of the military ; but the contemplated advantages of the places
have never been realised. From its peculiar situation, it is almost
incapable of being fortified ; and while it offers little protection against
invasion across the frontier, its distance from the coast would prevent
it from sending succour to repel an attack upon the seaboard. The
opinion is yearly strengthened, that St. John should now be the capi-
tal ; and if the Provinces be united into one principality — which is
most desirable for their future security, it is probable that the centre
of the local administration for New Brunswick would be at this place.
St. John will continue to command the trade of the whole river.
I'he lumberman, when once fairly embarked on his raft of timber, con-
tinues to descend the stream until he reaches its mouth ; and the sur-
plus agricultural produce of the rural districts will be carried to the
brisk market of a seaport town, whence exportations are made with
every facility.

From such and other like causes, St. John is rapidly advancing in
wealth and population, wliile Fredericton remains almost stationary,
and in some degree dependent upon the money that flows from the
military chest. Remove from the capital its warlike establishment,
the Legislature, and the public functionaries of high salaries, and it
would soon be a plain country village, whose inhabitants would have
to look to agricultural and manufacturing pursuits for their support.
If columns of British infantry are terrible on the fields of an enemy's
country, they are also to be dreaded in a Provincial village among
their friends and countrymen. It is true that their officers may impart
a degree of taste, etiquette, and gentlemanly deportment to certain
classes ; but more frequently are their errors imitated, and habits intro-
duced unfavourable to that industry by which alone a new Province
can be redeemed from a wilderness state, or rendered a fit abode for a
civilised people. The growth of the imperial, moustache, or copious
whisker is but too often cultivated by those whose better interest it
would be to bring to perfection the nutritious and valuable productions
of the country.

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102

NKW BHUNSWICK.

The merchant3 of Frederlcton obtain their chief supplies of goods
from St. John. They are brought up in steamers plying daily upon the
river — except during the winter, when the communication is maintained
by sleds drawn by horses over the ice. The large supplies of provi-
sions required by the hunbcrmen during their encampment in the
woods are also chiefly purchased at the same place ; and the prepon-
derance in favour of lumbering pursuits is so great, that the laborious
agricultural population, under the present system of husbandry, are
unable to supply their own wants and those of the timber-gaugcrs
employed in the wilderness.

Fredericton stands upon beds of diluvial sand and gravel, which,
although several feet higher than the alluvial intervales, are not alto-
gether free from the danger of inundation. A partial overflowing took
place on the ilth of April, 1831, from the occurrence of an ice-dam*
in the river below, by which the front streets were submerged. The
whole plain had been swept by the water and ice a short time before
the Loyalists landed in the country.-)*

From the capita], roads diverge to St. John, Nova Scotia, Mira-
michi, Madawasca, St. Andrew's, and other places ; and, by the aid of
legislative grants, internal communication has been greatly improved of
late. Stage or mail coaches ply on the above roads, whereby the tra-
veller finds a ready conveyance to any part of the Province. A steam-
boat has ascended the river to Woodstock, sixty-four miles farther up
the stream ; but until some large rocks are removed from the Meductic
and other rapids, the extension of steam navigation to the upper coun-
try will not be considered safe. Provisions and merchandise of all
kinds are towed upwards in large boats drawn by horses ; the more
domestic trade is carried on in canoes, which are exceedingly numerous
on the stream. The ferry-boats between Fredericton and the opposite
side of the river are also propelled by horses.

The principal settlements in the rear of Fredericton are scattered
along the road running thence through the wilderness to St. Andrew's.

* Ice-dams, or "ice-jams," as they are frequently called, are common in
many of tlie rivers of North America.

t Notitia of New Brunswick. St. John, 1838. H. Clmbb ^' Co.

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

103

It first passes the Hanwell settlement, containing about twenty Irish
families, who, from the stubbornness of the soil, are compelled to
labour hard for their support. Near Irina Lake the quality of the
land is better, and a few settlers are making improvements. The land
is generally of the hemlock and sprace kinds, being interspersed with
swamps and plats of almost barren sand. Tracts of Crown land have
been surveyed, and successful efforts made by gentlemen residing at
Fredericton to settle parts of them with poor Irish emigrants. The
Harvey settlement, still farther south, was made by English and Scotch
emigrants, who were unable to succeed under the system of the New
Brunswick and Nova Scotia Land Company, and were established upon
their present lands by the Government, as an experiment in colonisation.
After having endured many hardships, they have redeemed the soil,
and now live in comfort and prosperity. The Harvey settlement bor-
ders upon a fine tract of hard wood land of good quality ; but it is
owned by absentees and rich land proprietors, who will doubtless let it
remain in its present state until its value is increased fourfold by the
roads and surrounding clearings of the poor backwoodsmen.

The St. Andrew's Road passes near the Oromucto Lake, a pretty
sheet of water abounding in trout and other kinds of fish. The side of
this lake was chosen by a Mr. Ensor, an eccentric English gentleman,
for a farm and residence ; but his clearing and house have been aban-
doned. There is a scattered but striving little band of forestmen on
the upper part of the Magaguadavic at the Brockway settlement, and a
few families from the North of Ireland are established farther down the
river. Scattered clearings are also seen on >'he roadside to the Digde-
guash and Warwig, in the County of Charlotte. Try on and other tracts
have been surveyed, and hundreds of lots are for sale ; still, there is a
lack of settlers, and the work of removing the forest and introducing
cultivation advances at a tardy rate. Excepting the intervales of the
stream, it is necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the
general quality of the lands. Many tracts are fit for little else but
pasturage. The ranges suitable for tillage are less common than may
be found in other parts of the Province.

Returning again to the St. John, it will be observed that the road
from Fredericton to Woodstock is on the south side of the stream,

M 2

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164

NEW KllUNSWICK.

Si 'i?

which, with its islands and borders of intervale, afTords a mimber of
ricli views. At the mouth of the Keswick Creek, on the opposite side,
there are several bcautifVii islets, adbrned by nature with lofty trees
and low coppices. In the Parish of Kingsclear, first settled by the
New Jersey Volunteers, the uplands rise to greater height, and the
valley of the stream is less expanded. At the place called the French
Village, there is a very fertile bed of alluvium. This is the site of an
Indian encampment and a Roman Catholic chapel. The lands of
Prince William, first settled by the King's American Dragoons, are
very hilly, and the intervales more limited in their extent. The parish
contains several inland basins of water. The largest of these is Lake
George. The settlement at the lake contains two saw-mills, a flour
and oat mill. From it descends a rapid stream called the Pokiok.
Having passed over a rocky bed, this rivulet plunges into the St. John
through a chasm twenty-five feeet wide, seventy feet deep, and a fur-
long in length. The water falls over a perpendicular ledge, and bounds
from step to step to step, through a dark channel, until it is lost in the
more tranquil water of the main river, which glides along unruifled, by its
noisy tributary. Lake George has clearings upon its borders. In this
quarter there are also two other thriving settlements, Magundy and
Pokiok. Still farther south, the whole surface of the country over a
wide expanse is in its natural state, and since the destruction of the
beaver it is seldom visited, even by the Indians. Moose, carriboo,
Virginian deer, bears, and wolves, are plentiful. The district is inter-
rupted by the chain of high and broken lands ; yet there are fine val-
leys and slopes among the mountains and hills, to which agriculture
might be succesefully applied.

Opposite Fredericton, there is a considerable stream, known as the
Nashwaak, and a lesser one, called the Nashwaaksis. The St. John is
here about half a mile wide, and on its left bank there is a small en-
campment of Indians. The branches of the Nashwaak extend to the
northward, and nearly meet the tributaries of the Miramichi. At its
lower part, it passes through fine intervales, and is navigable for canoes
and rafts to some distance in the interior. The uplands are occupied
by a tier of farms on each side of the valley, which presents one of the
prettiest views in the Province.

■^'■:s

ill

NEW BRUNSWICK.

165

A few years since, an Association was formed at Fredericton, and
incorporated, under the name of the Nashwaaksis Manufacturing Com-
pany, with a proposed capital of £50,000. The operations of the
Company were devoted to the creation of an extensive brewery, an
iron-foundry, opposite Fredericton, and mills for the manufacture of
flour and for sawing. The enterprise has not been successful, and
some of the works are falling into decay. Extensive mill establish-
ments on the Nashwaak have also failed in returning any profit to their
proprietors. The main road from Fredericton to Miramichi follows the
deviation of this stream, and crosses on the line of an old Indian port-
age to the south-western branch of that river. On the northern side of
the tributary called the Pennyaul', there is a great tract of wilderness
country, which is decidedly superior to many of the wild lands of the
southern parishes.*

The Parishes of Douglas. Queensbury, and St. Mary are situated on
the north side of the St. John. The former is intersected by a stream
called the Keswick. It was settled by disbanded soldiers of the New
York Volunteers and Royal Guides in 1783, and whose descendants
have made very extensive improvements of the tracts given to their
ancestors by the Crown. It contains two Episcopal Churches and two
Meeting-houses, and new clearings are advancing yearly into the re-
cesses of the forest. Keswick Ridge, and other villages adjacent to
the stream, are all in a flourishing condition.

The Nashwaaksis is occupied by grist and saw mills, and upon its
borders there is a large Welsh settlement called Cardigan, the country
residence of Dr. Jacob, Principal of King's College. This settlement
extends to Tay Creek, where the soil has also been improved by a
respectable body of inhabitants. At the close of the Revolutionary
War, a number of the soldiers of the gallant old 42nd Regiment settled
in this quarter. Very few of them are now alive ; but the large village
occupied by their children and successors commemorates their patience
and industry. There are a number of other small settlements and

* Any person who is desirous of examining the wild lands of the middle
comities can ascend the river at St. John every day to Fredericton, wliere
information will be supplied by the Crown Lands' Officers.

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166

NEW BRUNSWICK.

clearings in this part of the country, but they do not require particular
description. The district is steadily advancing in agricultural improve-
ment ; the success attending husbandry as practised by a few gentle-
men of capital has exerted a beneficial influence over a wide area, and
wrought many improvements fti the moral and industrial character of
the people.

This part of York has been rendered more interesting from being the
■eat of the operations of the New Brunswick and Nova Scotia Land
Company. This Association, incorporated by Royal Charter and Act
of Parliament, purchased from the Crown 550,000 acres of land in the
County of York. Their tract is chiefly situated between the St. John
and South-west Miramichi. It embraces the Cardigan settlement ; but
over it the Company exercise no control, the land having been granted
previously to their purchase. Much of the soil is of a good quality,
but there are some light and meagre tracts of little value. Nor is the
situation of the district most favourable for extensive industry and
traffic. Its distance from the St. John, or any stream of free naviga-
tion, is a drawback upon the natural privileges of the inhabitants, as it
would be also on the exports of the country after its population has
become numerous. Since, however, a railway has been contemplated
between Halifax and Quebec, the most favourable considerations may
be entertained of its situation. That railway, if constructed, will no
doubt cross the lands of the Company, or approach very near them, and
thereby open a channel of communication of the first importance to the
complete success of their enterprise.

It had been proposed by the Provincial Government to open a road
from the Mstrict ipposite Fredericton direct to the Grand Falls, and a
large sum of money was expended in making the survey and in open«
ing its lower extremity ; but the site was most injudiciously chosen,
and the Royal Road, as it was designated, has been abandoned, a part
of it only being completed. The Company have opened a road from
the Royal Road, eight miles from Fredericton, to Stanley, the centre
of their operations, whichrts twenty-four miles from the capital,
Stanley is situated on the borders of the Nashwaak, thirty-five miles
above its confluence with the St. John, where the navigation is limited
to canoes or light boats. Excellent saw and grist mills have been

■f

NEW iniUNSWICK.

167

i .'

erected. They have also a chuToh and rosldi-nt clergyman, school-
house, and an inn lor the accommodation of travellers. The olFiccrs of
the Company reside on the spot, and the village is well Hiipplicd with
mechanics. The road constructed by the Company has bevn extended
from Stanley to the South-west Miramichi, seventeen miles, and thereby
a large tract has been opened for settlement. Roads have also been
made to the neighbouring villages, and the facilities of communication
are rapidly improving. The construction of a road from the south-west
branch of the Miramichi, near Boistown, to Campbelltown on the Rcsti-
gouche, would promote internal improvement, and open an immense
wilderness to the labour of the farmer ; but until a sound and extensive
system of immigration, fostered by the Government, is brought into
operation, the work is unnecessary, for few of the present scanty popu-
lation are disposed to remove far from the societies where they arc
attached.

The early proceedings of the Company were unsuccessful. They
brougjit upon their lands a number of settlers from the Isle of Sky,
who were principally fishermen, or persons unacquainted with agricul-
ture. These people finally dispersed, and many of the lots once occu-
pied by them are new vacant.* *'

From the above and many other untoward circumstances, the pro-
spects of the Association wore a gloomy aspect ; bnt by perseverance
their affairs have begun to improve, and ultimate success may be con-
templated. The town of Stanley is yearly increasing in population and
prosperity. Severa. very respectable persons from Great Britain have
recently taken up ' neir abode upon the lands ; an agreeable society is
formed ; and the settlers are performing the task upon which their
future success ma nly depends. The extravagant views attending all
such enterprises have been corrected, arid the Company may look for-
ward with encouragement to the progressive settlement of the tract,
and a favourable result of an undertaking upon which they have ex-
pended £100,000.

The Parish of Queensbury was laid out for the Queen's Rangers.

• Tlio Agent of the Company at Stanley wiil sell lots of 100 acres, with
small clearings, for Ss. 6d. to 6s. currency per acre.

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NEW iniUNSWICK.

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ItB uplands are hilly, hut nevertheless produce good crops of wheat,
oats, and Indian com. Within its hounds there are several fine islands
of intervale. Almost the whole surface of the parish is occupied hy
flourishing settlements. Two small streams, the Mactaquack and
Nackawick, are occupied hy mills.

There is yet another place on the extreme limits of the County of
York, where it meets Northumherland, that deserves notice. On the
south hank of the Miramichi, and main road between Frederieton
and Chatham, a village has sprung up called lioistown. It consists of a
meeting-house, school-house, inn, stores, saw-mill, mechanics' shops,
and about twenty dwelling-houses. This village was foimded by a
Mr. Bois, an enterprising American, whose labours, for the benefits
they have conferred upon the country, are worthy of praise and
imitation.

We hove been thus brief in the description of York for reasons
already mentioned. Viewed generally, it must be considered as a part
of the Province that is admirably fitted for agriculture and manufacture.
Taking Frederieton, the most improved and cultivated part of the
county, for the centre, the progress of settlement has not been rapid,
owing only to the scantiness of the inhabitants. From the parent
town, and the old military villages planted in the forest around it, set-
tlements have gradually expanded, and spread themselves in almost
every direction. Still, a stranger, in making a hasty visit to the St.
John, would imagine that on every hand the country, excepting its
shores, was an impenetrable wilderness, alike gloomy and inhospitable.
The history of the county would afford a practical refutation of some
fanciful theories now cherished by high authorities. We have here a
flourishing county, originally settled by soldiers and Loyalists, whose
early habits of life were not favourable to subduing the for.^st. It is
admitted that these were not the best men to engage in the improve-
ment of a new Colony. Sixty years ago, almost the entire surface of
New Brunswick was an unbroken wood, and the first settters carried a
musket in one hand to protect themselves from the assaults of the
Indians, and an axe in the other to clear away the trees. If the results
already noticed have followed the military settler, what may be expected
from the introduction of a respectable class of British farmers upon the

B>i"«iwnw»w^

NKW HllUNSWiClv.

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vast tracts of wilderness land to be fitund in every (juarter of the Pro-
vince ? If the imperfect human materials first cmployedin colonising
New Brunswick have been successful, nnich may be fairly looked for
from a class of emigrants who have been trained to steady labour and
the cultivation of the soil. For such there is still abundant room, and
it is only by the influx of willing industry from the mother-country
that the forests of New Brunswick can bo subdued, and the Province
be made to rank with the neighbouring States.

At present the industry of the county is applied to the opposite and
different branches uf labour, agriculture and lumbering. The system
of husbandry, although gradually improving, is still imperfect. It is
true that, from the example and by the influence of a few individuals,
a better mode of culture than ordinary makes its way among the
farmers ; yet they are slow to forsake established customs, and to take
advantage of modern discoveries. The principal minerals of the county
are iron ore, coal, and ochres. In the valley of the Keswick there are
mineral springs which evolve sulphuretted hydrogen gas.

County of Carlton.

The county of Carlton at present includes all the upper part of the
St. John, so far as it flows through British territory. The old Acts of
the Government made the southern boundary of the Province of Quebec
the northern line of Nova Scotia, but that line has never been defined.
Since the settlement of the North-western Boundary of the Province by
the Ashburton Treaty, disputes have arisen in regard to the line between
Canada and New Brunswick, which line should be speedily deter-
mined. Accordingly, Carlton is bounded on the north by Canada, on
the west by the State of Maine, east by York, and north-east by
Gloucester and Restigouche. Much confusion exists in regard to the
divisional lines between the counties and parishes of the Province, and
no map has ever been published on which they are all delineated. Carl-
ton contains nine parishes — Woodstock, Northampton, Kent, Brighton,
Pertli, Wicklow, Wakefield, Andover, and Madawasca. By the last
census (taken in 1840) it contained 13,381 inhabitants. It is esti-
mated to embrace 3,592,000 square acres, of which there are 52,000
acres of cleared land.

111

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170

NEW nnUNSWlCK.

A rungo o( high land Htretches ncross the northern part ol' the Stale
of Maine, and enters New linmHwick between Wo()il«t»)fk and the
niuutli of the Aroostook. Within its borders, near the St. John, are
Mars Hill, Hear and Moose* Mountains, and the hills of the Moncjuart.

Bold and rugged in its outline, thr country has a wild and ronuuitic
a8])ect ; but although much of the surface is elevated and rises into
lofty cniincnecs, it is not extensively broken by abrupt precipices, and
the slopes arc not too steep for cultivation. Near the Mcduetic Rapids,
the St. John changes its direction, descending from the north towards
the south, and leaving a narrow strip of land between its waters and
the American boundary. The banks of the river, heretofore closely
populated and skirted by broad intervales, begin to aj)proach each other,
and to be shaded by the native woods ; while the belts of intervale
become more and more narrow, being beautifully terraced by successive
deposits of alluvium. Cultivation seems to have been driven in from
the green forest, and the settlements are chiefly confined to the banks
of the stream, except at Woodstock, or on the roads leading into the
Boundary State.

Commencing with the streams below, and describing their settlements
as we ascend the main river in the county, the Shogamock may be seen
coming in from the westward five miles above the Pokiok. This small
stream takes its rise near the Palfrey Mountains, on the border of the
Great Cheputnecticook Lake. It also communicates with Megadawga-
wagum or Loon Lake, at the head of the Magaguadavic. It is navi-
gable for light canoes, and runs through some belts of good land, sepa-
rated by low swamps and small lakes. A large clearing has been made
between this stream and Eel River, called the Howard Settlement,
which contains upwards of forty families.

Eel River is about thirty-five miles in length, and descends from a
beautiful lake ; between it and the North Cheputnecticook the distance
is only three miles. The river is navigable for boats, excepting at the
rapids near its mouth, and the Ledge Falls near the Lake. The land

• This eminence, viewed at a distance, has a perfect resemblance to the
body and hornless head of a moose— whence its name. Bear Mountain also
resembles the head of a bear.

■4't

NKW nilUNSWICK.

171

lepnmting those lakes in well covered with hirch, maple, and other kinds
of hard wood, intermixed with pine and spruce. The soil appears to
be Htron<^, but has not been tested by tillage. Farther south, the land
nt many places is partially occupied by boulders of granite, and several
tracts are too rocky for cultivation. The river, abounding in trout,
perch, and eels, runs smoothly from the lake at its outlet, but is shortly
interrupted by a fall of six feet. From the Fall downwards, to the dis-
tance of twelve miles, there ore some good intervales. Finally, Kel
River rushes through a rocky and broken channel into the main stream.*
Vast tnicts of excellent land still remain ungranted in this part of the
county. The fears that were entertained by the first settlers upon the
river in regard to early frosts have been removed. Indian corn ripens
well ; and all kinds of grain, potatoes, and garden vegetables, grow
luxuriantly.

The Meduxnakeagif a rapid stream, takes its rise within the Ameri-
can territory, and, after passing through Jacksontown, a fine new
farming village, is discharged into the St. John at the town of Wood-
stock, where it is crossed by a dam and bridge. Its mouth is occupied
by excellent saw and grist mills. The lands on the sides of the river
have been granted, and being of an excellent quality, they are now

* From the distress that prevailed at St. John in the winter of 1811, in coii-
scqnence of destructive fires and a sudden prostration of business, twenty
tradesmen and labourers, most of whom were penniless, encouraged by the
benevolence of Sir William Colebrooke, the Lieutenant-Governor, embarked
for Eel River. Fifty acres of Crown lond were offered to each man on credit,
and fifty more were reserved to be granted to each settler when the first fifty
should be paid for, at 3s. .'3d. currency per acre. The Legislature also granted
a small loan to supply provisions and seeds, until a crop could be raised^ The
Writer accompanied the little party to their lands, and erected camps amidst
the deep snows. To them the wolves made nightly visits, howling in terrific
discord. Through many difficulties, londs were cleared, and produced a good
crop in the ensuing season, and the settlement has been in some degree pro-
sperous. It has not proved, however, that advances of land or provisions arc
advantageous to the Government or the settler, as they are apt to induce idle-
ness and tempt the profligate. Other tracts have been surveyed in this quar-
ter, and are being slowly filled up. The quality of the soil is unexceptionable.

t Miductsiniciek of the Indians.

''^t'-.f

■i

P ' til

I J

172

NEW BRUNSWICK.

under cultivation to the distance of several miles above the town. The
river is navigable for canoes and lufts of timber twenty miles, and it
fonns a water communication from Houlton, a small town and military
post twelve miles west of Woodstock, on the American side of the
line.

Woodstock embraces three villages, which are very advantageously
situated on the west bank of the St. John. Of these, the upper one,
containing the Court-house and Gaol, is known by the singular name
of Hard-scabble.* The town contains an Episcopal Church, Presby-
terian Church, Methodist Chapel, Roman Catholic Chapel, a Bank,
Grammar-school, and a number of handsome private buildings, with a
population of two thousand inhabitants. From being situated at the
extremity of the road to Houlton, in the State of Maine, and from its
advantageous position in regard to the local timber traffic, it has ra-
pidly grown into a place of importance, and, from being surrounded by
a fine agricultural country, its steady advancement is certain. The
villages of Jacksontown and Richmond, with the clearings extending
from them in every direction, give this parish a venerable aspect ; but,
thirty years ago, its surface was covered by a dense wilderness. In the
f'jrmer village, and two and a half miles from Woodstock, there is a
valuable bed of iron ore, the total thickness of which is seventy feet.
This river is situated in a very fertile district, near the State of Maine,
where it has a communication with New Brunswick by the Houlton
Road. Its proximity to tht jt. John, where it will hereafter be navi-
gable for steamboats, and the abimdance of wood to supply fuel for
smelting and manufacturing purposes, will render it valuable hereafter
to this part of the Province.

The soil in this quarter is a calcareous loam, interspersed with argil-
laceous and silicious knolls and hollows. It produces abundant crops
of wheat, rye, barley, oats, flax, Indian corn, potatoes, turnips, and all
kinds of garden vegetables. It is also well adapted to horticulture ;

f^.f

■jf!

* Any difKciilt and laborious woi'k in the Province has received tlic appella-
tion of a "hard scfibble." Just below the village referred to, there is u rajjid
in the river, which can only be ascended but by a hard scabblc : licncc the
village has obtained its characteristic name.

town. The

NEW BRUNSWICK,

173

but fruit-trees ^'^ve scarcely yet been cultivated. Directly below the
town there is ;. large tract of high terraced intervale of a superior qua-
lity. This intervale and the uplands adjacent are in a good state of
cultivation. Opposite the town, also, there are rich alluviums which
might be rendered highly productive.

From Woodstock there are roads to Fredericton, Iloulton, the Grand
Falls, and all the neighbouring villages ; and a mail-coach runs three
times a-week to the capital and the upper territory. From the rapidity
of the current, transportation downwards is easy ; but British manufac-
tured goods and other merchandise are towed up the river in large flat-
bottomed boats drawn by horses. Rafts of timber descend to Fre-
dericton (sixty-four miles) in a day, and an excursion on one of these
floating masses of wood, or in a canoe, is by no means unplea-
sant, and affords an excellent opportunity of viewing the scenery of
the river.

In consequence of disturbances that took place upon the frontier
previously to the settlement of the Boundary dispute, Woodstock was
made a military post, and barracks have been erected for the accommo-
dation of a regiment of soldiers ; but since the final Treaty of Lord
Ashburtun, by which a valuable part of the Province was assigned to
the Americans, the necessity of maintaining a warlike force at that place
has been rendered unnecessary, so long as there is peace between the
two Powers.

■ Both banks of the St. John are partially settled from Woodstock to
the mouth of the Tobique, fifty miles above. A number of tht settle-
ments are, however, only in their infancy, and there are distances of
several miles where clearings have only been commenced.

A few miles above the town, the intervale becomes narrow and
scanty. It is terraced along the whole course of the stream : some-
times five diff'erent steps are seen on the shores, whereby the same
number of changes in the level of the river are clearly indicated. The
valley through which the stream passes is diminished in breadth, and
it runs between banks of sand and gravel from thirty to fifty feet in
height. Great numbers of logs and pieces of pine timber are collected
during the winter, and piled upon the brink of the water. In the
spring they are launched into the river and floated to market.

♦

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*
*

174

NEW BIIUNSWICK.

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iff

The village of Wakefield, twelve miles above Woodstock, is very
beautifully situated. It contains and is surrounded by excellent farms,
and roads have been opened to Jacksontown and other new settlements
remote from the river. The soil is of the most fertile kind, and its
cultivation is rapidly improving. The river, with its wooded islands
and high terraced border, surmounted by cultivated uplands, is well
calculated to strike the eye of the traveller after he has ascended from
the tamer scenery below. The St. John is here a furlong wide, and
the stream runs smoothly along at the rate of six miles an hour. The
timber on the uncleared lands consists of spruce, fir, cedar, and ])ine,
intermixed with birch and maple. The islands are covered by the
different varieties of hard wood and butter-nut. The ungranted lands
are situated from three to six miles from the river, and they are gene-
rally of an excellent quality.

Restricting our observations to the west bank of the St. John, the
above description will apply still farther upwards to the Parish of Kent.
The Presqu' Isle is a considerable stream ; but, from the number of its
rapids, it is scarcely navigable for canoes. It is useful in affording a
channel wherein timber is floated down to the main river. One of its
branches bends around the base of Mars Hill, and receives the brooks
descending from the side of the mountain. It was formerly a military
post, and the lands adjacent were settled by disbanded West India
Rangers and New Brunswick Fencibles.

River Des Chutes is a small stream. Excellent saw-mills have been
erected at its mouth, where, at some former period, there was a fall of
sixty feet. The water and frost have worn down the rocks, so that a
fall of only ten feet remains.

Mars H 11, celebrated for being on the Boundary line claimed by the
British, is five miles from the St. John — southward of Des Chutes
River, which passes along its northern base. As the whole surface of
the country is here shaded by a thick growth of lofty trees, the hill
cannot be seen at any great distance from the valley of the river.
Notwithstanding the sides of the mountain are steep, they are covered
by a heavy growth of white and yellow birch, beech, and sugar maple.
The top of its highest poak ^vas cleared by the Commissioners under
the Treaty of 179-1> b\U is now covered with an undergrowth. Frag-

)ck, is very
client fanns,
settlements
ind, and its
)ded islands
nds, is well
:ended from
g wide, and
hour. The
•, and pine,
:red by the
•anted lands
!y are gene-

t. John, the
ish of Kent,
imber of its
. affording a
One of its
the brooks
fr a military
West India

have been

?as a fall of

, so that a

med by the
)es Chutes

surface of
ss, the hill

the river,
ii-e covered
gar maple,
lers under

1). Frag-

NEW BRUNSWICK.

175

mentg of the old observatory still remain, having engraved upon them
the hostile expressions of the borderers.

The soil is a rich loam, containing lime. In consequence of the
large grants made to individuals, these grounds remain uncleared, and
the general improvement of the country is greatly retarded ; for few
settlers will approach a large grant whose proprietor will not improve
his land, nor contribute to the opening of roads, by which the value of
such property is greatly increased.

The mountain chain of which Mars Hill is only an insulated point
pursues its course to the northward, leaving within its range Bear
Mountain and Moose Mountain. Blue Mountain, near the Tobique, is
the next eminence of any considerable altitude in this division of the
Alleghany chain.

The surface of the country between the River Des Chutes and the
mouth of the Atcoatook, and from thence to the Grand Falls, is very
uneven, being traversed by the long parallel ridges common to the
flanks of the chain alluded to. Notwithstanding the high undulations
of the surface, the lands are of a substantial quality, and the admixture
of lime in the soil fits them for the raising of wheat and other kinds of
grain. There is still a large quantity of ungranted land in th*. rear of
the river lots, whose fertility, under proper cultivation, would not be
surpassed by any in ihe Province.

On the east side of the St. John, the Pekagomik enters from the
north-east, ten miles above Woodstock. Upon its branches there are
a few tracts of good intervale, and the stream is skirted by flourishing
settlements. Canoes may ascend this river to the distance of sixteen
miles. In the rear of the improved lots the land is yet ungranted,
and the whole district to the north would be an eligible site for
population.

The Shictabank is twenty-two miles from Woodstock. Its sources
spring near the South-west Miramichi. The river runs through an
unsettled and ungranted tract, and is only frequented by lumber-
men. At the close of the last war, a number of disbanded soldiers
settled between its mouth and the Tobique, where they have cleared
fine farms, and by their industry redeemed a considerable tract from its
primitive unproductive state. The Monquart resembles the latter

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17G

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Stream ; its borders near the St. John are inhabited, and sUch of the
lands as have been examined are worthy of cultivation.

The Tobique River has been described in a previous chapter. The
red and white pine growing upon its borders and along its tributaries
have for some years past attracted the attention of the lumbermen, who,
aided by the stream and its contributing branches, bring down immense
quantities of timber annually. The intervales and uplands now unoc-
cupied would sustain a very numerous population, whose main channel
of transport would be to the St. John. The mouth of the river is at
present occupied by an encampment of Melicete Indians, who have a
claim to 16,000 acres of land at this place. Tlie site of their huts and
wigwams would be most advantageous for a town, and the contiguous
rapids offer every inducement for the erection of powerful machinery :
but it would be necessary to protect these people by an exchange of
land, which should be effected before any attempt is made to improve
their district ; and before any town or place of manufacture and traffic
could be established there, the wilderness country above must first be
improved by the industry of settlers, which cannot be supplied by the
Province in the next century. There is here sufficient space for a new
county ; but until a district shall be inhabited, it has not been consi-
dered necessary, heretofore, to make any very extensive surveys. The
constant changing of county and parish lines at present is extremely
inconvenient for the purposes of description, and until some general
plan is adopted, it is better that they should remain in the new dis-
tricts under their present almost undefined limits.

The Aroostook, jilso before briefly described, descends through the
once-disputed territory, having its mouth within the British line two
miles above the debouchement of the Tobique. This river, its branches
and contiguous lakes, will afford a water commu-iication equal to four
hundred miles in extent. In the wide area thus opened, by natural
channels of transport, there are vast tracts covered with pine and other
kinds of valuable timber. Its agricultural capabilities also, so far as
an opinion can be formed by the kinds and size of the forest-trees, and
a few tried clearings, are great. The timber, the first article of export
of the Aroostook country, must pass down the St. John, and hereafter
its agricultural produce will follow the same course. Aware of the

NEW BRUNSWICK.

177

reso\irces of the district, American settlers are fast hovering on the
borders of the streams, where they prepare the great supplies of timber
yearly floated into the St. John. At present all the produce raised by
the agricultural part of the inhabitants of the Aroostook, as well as of
those of the whole Upper St. John, is insufficient to supply the lum-
bermen, and importations of provisions are made upwards against the
currents at a great expense. Being much farther advanced towards
improvement than the Tobique, this stream wilt speedily supply the
elements of a town, at the site where it enters the main stream. This
result has been hastened by the termination of the Boundary dispute,
since which period the Americans have advanced with great ardour to
occupy the lands gained by their calculating diplomacy.

The St. John, at the mouth of the Tobique, runs at the rate of eight
miles an hour, and is broken a little way below the Falls by two power-
ful rapids. The lands on each side are hilly ; the soil is nevertheless
fertile. Extensive surveys have recently been made in this quarter, in
order to facilitate the settlement of the wild surface.

Fifteen miles above the Tobique, and five below the Falls, another
small stream enters the St. John from the eastward, called the Salmon
River. It traverses some fine table land, and a few families are settled
at its mouth. Salmon werd formerly very abundant in this rivulet ; vX
present they are scarce : but trout and whitefish are still numerous.

A sudden turn in the river at the Grand Falls forms a little penin-
sula, at which there is a very pretty village, whose scenery is rendered
extremely wild and romantic from being on the border of the cataract.
Mills were constructed on the side of the Fall by the late Sir John
Cauldwell, formerly Receiver-General of Lower Canada; and a wooden
railway was laid across the peninsula to transport the lumber from the
saws, and to avoid the boisterous rapids of the stref>m, in which it was
in its descent much injured : but the establishment has not been suc-
cessful. A town has recently been laid out at this place, which, from
its peculiar situation, commands the trade of the upper country ; and a
canal* cut across the little peninsula, to complete the navigation of the

• A survey of tliis canal haa bean made, and it is presumed that the Govern-
ment will have a work completed which will greatly add to the strength cf the
fortifications now in progress.

!:■■ ' '1

' il

{'■

I I

178

NEW nUUNSWICK.

river, would confer many advantaf»cs upon the inhabitants, and greatly
facilitate the trade of the district above. The isthmus of the Falls is
one of the oldest military posts in the Province ; and since the settle-
ment of the Boundary strife, the Government has commenced the erec-
tion of fortifications and the clearing of land, in order to protect this
part of the frontier.

Having noticed the principal features of the lower parishes of Carl-
ton, we now enter the District of Madawasca, or Upper St. John.
About twelve miles above the Falls, Grand River enters the main
stream from the north-west. This is a quiet rivulet, navigable for inland
transport twenty miles. It passes through narrow belts of alluvium,
and some good upland. After ascending the stream about twenty
miles, and one of its branches called the Waagan a short di'itance, there
is a portage of three miles to a branch of the Restigouche also called by
the Indians Waagan. The portage is over a somewhat elevated ridge
which divides the waters flowing into the St. John from those that fall
into the Restigouche. The wilderness here has been overrun by fires,
and the surface presents a very gloomy aspect. The Shiegash and
Squisibish are small streams. Green River, so called from the green
colour of its water, makes its debouchement twenty-five miles above the
Falls. This stream is sc tied several mileS from its mouth, and will
float canoes and timber thirty miles from its sources. Green Mountain,
near its border, is an eminence of considerable altitude.

The principal settlement of Madawasca borders upon a river of that
name, and on both sides of the St. John, from the Grand Falls to the
mouth of the St. Francis, upwards of forty miles. There are a few
groups of farms and clearings beyond these limits, and the population
is rapidly thickening and expanding. There is, however, far from
being a dense population even in the more advanced parts of the dis-
trict. The tract around the Madawasca River is the chief seat of busi-
ness and cultivation. The population of the whole district in 1840
was 3,963 : it will now probably exceed 4,500. There are three
Rouian Catholic Chapels in the parish : one of them is opposite the
mouth of Green River, one four miles below Madawasca River, and
the third at the Chataguan settlement, still higher i^. The left bank
of the Madawasca River is occupied in twelve miles' distance ; and to

NKW BRUNSWICK.

179

I, i^l

and greatly

the Falls is

e the settle-

ced the erec-

protect this

hes of Carl-
;r St. John,
rs the main
)le for inland
of alluvium,
bout twenty
'itance, there
Iso called hy
levated ridge
lose that fall
run by fires,
Shiegash and
m the green
es above the
th, and will
n Mountain,

river of that
Falls to the
re are a few
e population
er, far from
s of the dis-
seat of busi-
;rict in 1840
re are three
opposite the
, River, and
he left bank
nee ; and to

Lake Tomiscouta, twenty-five miles, there are scattovod iinprovomcnts.
Before the American claim was extended to the St. John, it was in-
tended that the post- road should proceed from Woodstock, on the west
side of the stream, to Green River, thence from the opposite bank to
Trout River, whence it now proceeds to the Lake, and is continued
over a portage of thirty-six miles to the River Du Loup, emptying
itself into the St. Lawrence. The extremities of the parish have no
roads, and the mail and passengers to and from Canada are poled and
paddled along the St. John and Madawasca Rivers in chnoes, which
advance against the currents at a tardy rate. Her Majesty's Govern-
ment has recently made a survey of this part of the country, in order
to open a road from Quebec to the Grand Falls, and onward to Nova
Scotia ; but the construction of the railway now contemplated between
Halifax and the St. Lawrence would at once consolidate all these iso-
lated villages, and pour into the forests thousands of emigrants. The
report of Sir James Alexander, R.E., who was engaged in the above
service, is favourable to the enterprise.

The extreme branches of the St. John glide through a dense wilder-
ness ; but since the Americans have obtained the west side of the river
along the Madawasca settlement, they are rapidly advancing to the
pine-timber districts, and immigrating to the banks of the principal
rivulets. Between the River St. Francis and the Merumplicook, the
St. John washes a number of beautiful islands, and intervales arc com-
mon on all its upper tributaries. Fish River enters from the westward
a few miles above the Merumplicook. Here the Americans erected a
small fort, and maintained a military establishment, during the disturb-
ances on the border. The State of Maine also commenced the opening
of a road from the Mattawamkeag, a branch of the Penobscot, to the
mouth of the above stream. The Americans have commenced a settle-
ment about twelve miles above Madawasca River ; and the river -shore,
now confirmed to them by tht late treaty, will soon be occupied by
enterprising farmers.

The Madawasca District is separated into three divisions : the upper,
called St. Emelie ; the middle, St. Basil; and the lower, .Bruno. The
lands in general are level or gently sloping ; abrupt heights are rare.
In the soil tliere is some diversity : but where it has not been worn

N 2

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I i

180

KEW BilUNSWlCK.

out by continued or imperfect tillage, it is fit for the plough. It is
well watered, and the tributaries, with their branches, present numerous
sites for machinery.

The inhabitants are French Acadians and Canadians, among whom
are mixed a few Provincials and Americans. After the former had
been driven from Nova Scotia, they commenced a settlement along the
St. John in the neighbourhood of Fredericton. From that place also
they were destined to be exiled ; and on the arrival of the American
Loyalists in 1733, and the disbanded soldiers of the Revolutionary
War, they were compelled to retreat ; and finally, they found a resting-
place at Madawasca, where they are now established. The national
relations of a part of these people have again been disturbed by the
Ashburton Treaty, which, by granting to the Americans the west side
of the St. John along the whole of the above district, has placed them
under two different Governments, and thrown a considerable popula-
tion of British subjects into a Republican State. If the forefathers of
these people were considered as neutrals, it can scarcely be expected
that the present generation would be very loyal to a Government by
whom they have been driven from forest to forest, and finally, after
fifty years of uninterrupted good feeling towards the Crown, a part of
them are unceremoniously disposed of to another nation. The social
condition of these people will be noticed in another chapter.

Notwithstanding the parish produces excellent Indian corn or maize,
wheat, barley, oats, and other kinds of grain, the system of tillage is
imperfect, and there is a lack of agricultural enterprise seldom seen
among English settlers. The exports of the district consist of timber,
a small quantity of wheat, furs, and maple sugar. Of the latter article
several tons are made annually for home consumption. The trade is
with Quebec, Woodstock, and Fredericton. To the latter places the
Jmbitans travel in batteaux and perogues,* which are transported over
the isthmus at the Falls, and poled against the rapids with much dex-
terity.

The inhabitants of Madawasca are mainly its own offspring, among

• Canoes made by hollowing out large pine logs, which are shaped accord-
ing to an approved mode. Some of these log canoes will carry twenty persons.

ilMM

)Ugh. It 18

nt numerous

,mong whom
former had
nt along the
at place also
he American
evolutionary
nd a resting-
rhe national
irbed hy the
the west side
placed them
able popula-
forefathers of
be expected
vernment by
finally, after
wn, a part of
The social
r.

jm or maize,
1 of tillage is
seldom seen
list of timber,
1 latter article
The trade is
er places the
n sported over
;h much dex-

pring, among

;haped accord-
venty persons.

c
a
e
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i' III

NRW DRUNSWICK.

181

>nrhom if there is « lack of informntion and polish, thoTC is an easy and
agreeable manner not always met with in original settlers; and it i»
pleasing to observe that among the young there is a growing desire for
education, and the engrafting of greater enterprise than characterises
the early pioneers of the remote wilderness.

The Madawasca country has begun to attract the attention of men
of enterprise, and small trading establishments are introduced among
the Acadians. The timber of the immense forests on the American
side of the boundary will descend the St. John, to which the right of
navigation was yielded, with the valuable tract of country on its west-
em sources. Much of the British portion of the territory also abounds
in marketable wood, and offers a wide and inviting field for new settle-
ments. The abundance of fish in all the rivers and lakes is of no little
importance to the pioneer of the backwoods, and the sugar cheaply
obtained from the sugar maple also contributes to his comfort. The
advantage of having moose and deer is not so manifest, as a hunter is
always neglectful of the soil, and does not cherish the steady habits
necessary for every adventurer in a new country.

! '^^1

NORTHERN COUNTIES.

County of Kent.

Having now surveyed the counties bordering on the Bay of Fundy,
and the long line of settlements upon the St. John and American fron-
tier, we proceed to the coasts of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Bay
Chaleurs, to describe the counties of that part of the Province.

Kent, formerly a part of Northumberland, is a small county when
compared with the adjoining districts. It comprises fifty miles of coast
on the north-east, being bounded on the west by Northumberland, and
on the south by Westmoreland. On the coast, it reaches from the
entrance of Miramichi Bay to the haven of Shediac, and contains seve-
ral fine harbours. Its area embraces 806,400 square acres, of which
only 5,000 are cleared. The parishes are— Richibucto, Carlton, Wel-
lington, Dundas, Weldford, Huskinson, and Harcourt. The two latter

IS^

Ni;vv niiuNswicK.

parishes nre witljout inlmbitunts. The popuhition of the county is now
iilxtut 9,000 souls. Its earliest settlements were innde by the AeadiaiiH,
vlio had a village at the Harbour of Ilichibiicto, and another at the
mouth of the Aldoinc lliver. It appears that the extremely savaj^e
eharactcr of the Richibucto Indians, who were formerly very numerous,
retarded the occupation of this part of New Brunswick by European
inhabitants.

In the latter part of the year 1787f Mr. Powel, an American Loyal-
ist, settled at Riehibucto. There were then only six families of Aca-
dians in the county, and eleven families between the Miramiehi and
IJay Vorte. Siiu-o that period, the district, whin compared with other
parts of the Province, has advanced but slowly. The county is
watered by a number of fine streams, whose branches are extended in
every direction, so that there is scarcely a tract of a thousand acres
that bus not its brook or rivulet.

Liverpool, the shire town of the county, is situated in the Parish of
Riehibucto, on the western side of the river of that name, and four
miles above its mouth. It contains about one hundred dwelling-
houses, a Court-house, Gaol, and several mercantile establishments.
A Presbyterian Church stands on the bank of the river, a mile and a
half from the principal village, which is built upon a low and level
tract that scarcely commands a view of the harbour. The whole popu-
lation of the parish, including the inhabitants of the town, in 1840 was
only 2,088. The exports of Liverpool are mainly lumber and fish,
and shipbuilding is pursued to considerable extent. The fisheries on
the sbore are not carried on with spirit, notwithstanding they are
capable of affording an ample return for the industry of the inhabitants.
Agriculture has received more attention, and a number of farms are
well cultivated. On the east side of the harbour, there is a settlement
of Acadians, consisting of upwards of seventy families, who have a
handsome Chapel and Mission-house. The desire to settle in compact
villages, and to cultivate small farms, is as manifest in this village as
in others occupied by the French generally. The inhabitants are em-
ployed in the different pursuits of fishing, farming, and lumbering.
The soil, although light and rather sandy, yields good crops under
proper tillage. About three miles farther up the river, there is a

NKW WRUNSWICK.

IB3

rcBpcctnble mercantile establishment owned by Mes>n. Jardin— also
the Custom-house, Orumnmr-school, and a cluster of dwelling-houses,
with ship and lumber yards. The river on this side is skirted by farms,
whose projjfietors appear to be in comfortable circumstances.

Tlie main road from Shediac to Miramichi crosses the river by ferry
between the town and upper villages. From the latter place, new roads
have been opened to Buctouche, fifteen miles, and to a few flourishing
new settlements in the rear. Among these is tiie Galloway village,
containing forty families. About twelve miles farther up the stream is
the termination of a road that was surveyed a few years ago, from
thence to the I'eticodiac. It was proposed by Colonel Cockbum to
open a communication through the forest from the Richibucto across
the Buctouche, Cocagne, and Shediac Rivers, and thereby prepare the
way for a little colony of British settlers ; but it is to be regretted that
the enterprise failed. The land is of good quality, bearing a mixed
growth of hard and soft woods. A few settlers and squatters are slowly
advancing upon the line of the intended road ; still, many years will
elapse before the present population will reach the centre of the tract.
A road lias also been laid out from this stream to the Grand Lake, in
Queen's County ; but, without the aid of inhabitants, such routes can-
not be kept free from windfalls, nor broken through in the deep snows
of winter.

The Richibucto is navigable for ships fifteen miles, and the tide
flows inland twenty-six miles. In that distance it is a sluggish stream.
It has five branches, — the St. Nicholas, South branch, Aldoine, Molus,
and Bass. The three latter streams flow from the north, and wash fine
level tracts of good land. The Indians have a tract reserved for them
at the mouth of the Molus River, where they have a small encampment.
Being unable to maintain themselves by fishing and hunting, many of
the males have put on the dress of the lumberman, and employ them-
selves as labourers in the common industry of the country. There is
a flourishing settlement on the South branch, and a few scattered clear-
ings are also seen near the mouths of the other tributaries ; but the
rear of the parish, although favourable for agriculture, is in a wilder-
ness state. Great quantities of timber and sawed lumber are yearly
floated down the Richibucto, and thence shipped to Great Britain.

i;U

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1 ■?-

Kj.

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t'.l

184

NEW BRUNSWICK.

All the streams in this quarter abound with salmon and trout ; and
cod, pollock, haddock, herrings, and other kinds of sea-fish, with lob-
sters, are plentiful beneath the tide. Pine and other kinds of valuable
timber have been abundant ; yet the large exports of wood from the
river, during a few past years, have reduced the quantity, and com-
pelled the lumbermen to extend their operations into the more inac-
cessible forests. As much of the timber is only squared before it is
shipped, saw-mills are not very numerous, and the flatness of the coun-
try is unfavourable for great water-power, except near the sources of
the rivulets, where the descent is more considerable.

The Parish of Wellington adjoins Richibucto. Its coast is indented
by the beautiful harbour of Buctouche, which is twenty miles from
Liverpool. This estuary receives two streams. Great and Little Buc-
touche Rivers. The tide flows up the larger one twelve miles. The
sides of the harbours and mouths of the rivers are thinly inhabited by
a mixed population of Acadians and English. The lesser stream, called
by the Indians Mehalawodiak, at the head of the tide turns mills, and
upon its banks there are a few fine farms. The harbour affords an
excellent site for shipbuilding, and from it vessels of the largest class
are despatched laden with timber and sawed lumber.
• In the Parish of Dundas, Cocagne is also a safe harbour, with a wide
mouth. Its exports, as usual, are ships and timber. The river of the
same name is occupied by mills, and the scanty population are chiefly
English. A number of the settlements along the coast are intersected
by the main road from Shediac to Miramichi and Restigouche. The
number of inhabitants on the immediate seaboard is very limited.

The rivers of these parishes also afford salmon, bass, alewives, and
other fish : oysters are abundant near the harbours. The interior and
unsettled districts have contained noble groves of red and white pine,
with other kinds of timber ; and notwithstanding much valuable wood
has been removed, there still remains a good supply at a distance from
the streams hitherto employed to float down the produce of the forests.
There are several ou'croppings of coal in this part of the country, yet
mining forms no part of the industry of the population.

We may now proceed to notice the parish of Carlton, situated to the
north, and then take a more general view of the agricultural features of

NEW BRUNSWICK.

185

I trout; and
ish, with lob-
s of valuable
Dod from the
y, and com-
i more inac-
before it is
of the coun-
e sources of

t is indented
' miles from
Little Buc-
miles. The
nhabited by
ream, called
s mills, and
r affords an
largest class

with a wide
river of the
are chiefly
intersected
iche. The
nited.

iwives, and
nterior and
white pine,
aable wood
stance from
the forests,
untry, yot

ited to the
features of

the county and its industrial resources. The Koucliibouguccsis takes
its rise from a lake upwards of fifty miles in the interior, and empties
itself into the Gulf thirty-six miles southward of the Miramichi. It
meanders through a low and level tract, having its banks towards its
mouth thinly settled. The largest village on its banks is situated about
ten miles from the outlet of the stream, and contains upwards of seventy
families of Acadian French, who devote their attention chiefly to hus-
bandry. They have a large Chapel, and visiting Roman Catholic
Missionary. There is a valuable unimproved fishery at the mouth of
the river.

The mouth of the Kouchibouguac is six miles northward of the
Kouchibouguacsis, and admits the tide to the distance of seven miles,
and to the place where it is crossed by the great road of the north
coast. There is here a small village, with saw and grist mills. This
stream extends into the country upwards of forty miles, and is pretty
well settled from its mouth to the great road, between which and the
shore there is a convenient ship-yard, where a number of fine vessels
have been built by Messrs. J. Cunard & Co. of Miramichi. The lands
along the upper part of the stream are ungranted. Timber of the kinds
before mentioned is still plentiful, and the lands are equal in quality
to those of the southern parishes.

From the foregoing descriptions, it will be observed that only a very
limited part of the county has been disburdened of its native forests,
and brought under cultivation.* The unoccupied parishes of Huskin-
son and Harcourt, together with the whole rear of the county, is a
close wilderness, in which there is yet to be found much excellent
timber. It is true that fires have overrun some tracts, and destroyed
the best wood upon them ; yet there are wide fields that have been
protected by the evergreen plants, and still contribute to the resources
of the district. The principal kinds of soft timber are white and red
pine, larch, or, hackmatack, spruce, hemlock, and fir: of the hard
varieties, there are birch, sugar maple, soft maple, ash, and beech.

* In almost every part of the County of Kent, good wild land may be pur-
chased from the Government or individuals for 3s. 3d. currency per acre. By
tlic latter a liberal credit is generally given to the steady and industrious

settler.

18G

NEW lillUNSWICK.

The whole county is remarkably level, and, upon an average, its
elevation above the sea will not exceed twenty feet. Every acre of its
surface is upon the great coal-field of New Brunswick, and the coal
itself appears, at numerous localities, accompanied by sulphureous
springs. Being derived from the red and grey sandstone beneath, the
soil partakes of the character of the rocks, and the description of one
square mile would nearly apply to the whole surface. In general, it is
a red marly or sandy loam, interspersed with gravelly patches, and
beds of friable or stiff clay. The marly and silicious loams are capable
of most successful cultivation ; and also the gravelly soil, when mixed
with a due proportion of vegetable matter, produces good crops. With
these fertile tracts, there are many low alder plats, capable of being
made good grass lands — and, again, swamps and peat-bogs, which can
only be redeemed in an advanced state of husbandry. The numerous
streams abound in usual fish ; about the harbours, there are oysters,
lobsters, eels, flatfish, smelts, &c. The coast affords very valuable
fisheries of cod, pollock, haddock, halibut, herring, alewives, and
mackerel. Herring and lobsters are sometimes so abundant, that they
are very improperly taken and employed as manure for the soil.

But, to improve these numerous and valuable resources far exceeds
the powers of the present limited population ; nor will their descend-
ants a hundred years hence be sufficiently numerous to bring them into
active operation. This part of the Province has heretofore only been
known as a lumbering district ; but, far from being its most valuable
object, lumbering has retarded the safer employment of agriculture,
and led to the neglect of the fisheries, which of themselves are suflScient
to sustain a population a hundred fold greater than that now scattered
about the bays and rivers.

County of Northumberland,

This county formerly included Kent and Gloucester ; but even since
the separation of these two districts, it is one of the largest counties in
the Province. Northumberland is bounded on the south by Kent,
King's, Queen's, and Sunbury ; on the west by Carlton, north-west
and north by Gloucester, and north-east by the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
Its shape is very irregular, and quite characteristic of the imperfect

♦i

NEW BRUNSWICK.

187

I . !' ^

division of the Province into counties, which have been laid out with-
out much regard to regularity or the general convenience of the inha-
bitants. It contains nine parishes, — Newcastle, Chatham, Ludlow,
Northesk, Alnwick, Blissfield, Glenelg, and Nelson. The area is
3,200,000 acres, of which only 27,000 acres are cleared. The popula-
tion in 1840 was 14,600: that number has since been increased to
about 18,000.

The chief river of this county, already briefly described, rises in
numerous branches in the northern wilderness of Carlton, being sepa-
rated from the St. John and the Tobique by short portages. In de-
scending, its tributaries water a vast tract of country. Two of them
unite about fifty miles above the harbour ; and lower down, a larger
branch from the north-west forms a junction, and the united streams
become navigable for large ships.

Forty years ago, the resources of this part of the Province were
almost unknown, except along the seaboard. The banks of the main
stream, and those of its branches, were found to abound in groves of
red and white pine, of which very extensive shipments have been made
to the mother-country. Much of the valuable timber has been re-
moved, and a still greater quantity was destroyed by an awful con-
flagration in 1825. Some of the timber on the burn?, country has been,
and still continues to be, i anufactured into deals, shingles, laths, &c. ;
and, from the vast extern of the pine tracts, great exports are still
made in squared and sawed lumber.

The principal ports of shipping are situated at the head of Miramielii
Bay, or on the sides of the river near its mouth ; yet there are several
very important mercantile establishments as high up as the division of
the stream into the North-west and South-west branches. The advan-
tages afforded for ship-building have been improved, and a great num-
ber of merchant- vessels of the largest class are la ;r.ched, laden with
timber, and desjiatched annually to Great Britain. The salmon-fishery
also was formerly of much consequence ; but the erection of saw-mills
prevents the fish from ascending the streams to deposit their ova, and
they are rapidly declining in numbers.

It will appear from this outline, that the county forms a most valu-
able part of the Province. Its situation on the sea-coast, its fine bay

■|;lli

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iii)

188

NEW BRUNSWICK.

and navigable river, its facilities for the timber trade and numerous
streams for machinery, render it a district of much importance. But to
these there is the drawback of having the v^aters frozen up in winter,
whereby navigation closes ; yet, at that season, the lumbermen are
actively employed in the woods, in preparing the timber for spring
exportation, and drawing the logs over the snow to the numerous
saw-mills.

Viewing the mouth of the Miramichi as the chief seat of business
and population, we shall proceed to describe the different sections of the
county more particularly. The first that naturally strikes our atten-
tion is that on the south shore of the bay, and river on the lower part
of its course, embracing parts of the parishes of Glenelg, Nelson, and
ChatViam.

Entering Miramichi Bay from the southward, we find, inside of
Point Escmninac, two indentations, known as Great Bay des Vents,
and I jttle Bay des Vents. Bay des Vents River, and Black River,
two small streams emptying theniselves into the former, are occupied
by saw-mills. At the mouth of Bay des Vents River, there is also a
pretty village : Black River has a large Scotch settlement. The lands
are remarkably low, but by no means unfit for cultivation. The great
road already mentioned crosses these streams about seven miles from
the shore, being thinly settled. The road along the margin of the
river also passes through scattered clearings to the villages above
mentioned.

The town of Chatham is situated on the south bank of the river,
about ten miles above its junction with the bay, and upon ground that
slopes gently towards the stream, the c^^annel of which runs close to
a chain of wharves and timber-booms, where the largest ships are laden
with ease and safety. Chatham contains the usual accommodation in
houses of worship, a printing-office, post-office, market-house, public
seminary, and iron-foundry, with a number of respectable mercantile
houses and ship-yards — also a superior stone steam saw-mill, owned
by the Hon. Joseph Cunard. The population of the town and parish
will probabably exceed 4,000.

Nelson, in the parish of that name, is a snug village, fronted by
wharves, slvjpyards and stores, and contains a Roman Catholic Chapel.

the
It

. .

■ '' l'

'^i'' 'i

' ' ■ ^ ;

Mji

m :

^'1

NEW BRUNSWICK.

189

Between it and Chatham the border of the river is occupied by fine
farms and handsome cottages. Two miles above the latter place, on
the opposite side " the river, stands Douglastown, a compact village,
containing the stores and other buildings of the extensive trading depot
long known under the firm of Gilmour, Rankine, & Co., to whom the
place owes its existence. The sawing machinery below Douglastown,
owned by Alexander Rankine, Esq., and the establishment of Wm.
Abrams & Co., are also worthy of some notice. Still farther up the
stream, in the parish of the same name, is Newcastle, thv^ shire town of
the county, standing on a level point of land at the base of a declivity.
It also comprises a number of mercantile establishments, storehouses,
a Presbyterian Chapel, Methodist Chapel, Court-house, Gaol, Record
Office, Bank, &c., and is a place of active and general business. From
it there is a good road to Fredericton, and another to Ba^ ...st. The
population of the parish is about 3,500.

The banks of the Miramichi in this quarter are pretty well settled,
and agriculture has not been neglected. Cargoes of timber are also
shipped from landing-places near the mouth of the streani. At
Beaubair's Island, at the bifurcation of the river, was the commercial
depot of D. Fraser & Co., the oldest trading establishment in the
county, and for many years the most extensive of any in the Province.
All these places are encircled by wharves, timber-ponds, warehouses, and
saw-mills ; and the shore is frequently lined with piles of timber, deals,
and other kinds of lumber.

It is much to be regretted that the towns and villages on this part
of the Miramichi had not been united, whereby a large and respectable
town would have been formed, which would have been equally advan-
tageous to the inhabitants on both sides of the river, between whom
serious feuds and jealousies now often arise. Such a town would also
have afforded greater convenience to the lumbermen, and the sliipment
of the vast supplies of wood brought down from the interior.

In treating of the early history of the Province, some account has
been given of the first settlements made by Europeans on the Mirami-
chi. Its early traffic in furs and fish had declined, and it was not
imtil 1814 or 1815 that the trade in lumber became profitable. From
that period the whole district advanced in prosperity, and the exports

i:i.

*Si

u ,

t wmrt

,1 I

190

NEW BRUNSWICK.

rapidly increased until 1825, when the northern side of the river, with
its towns, villages and settlements, was doomed to be consumed by a
fire that swept over the face of the country, and spread devastation and
ruin far and wide.

The forests of pine, spruce, fir, and other resinous woods in Ame-
rica, are very liable to be consumed by fire, and there is scarcely any
part of the Northern Continent that has escaped conflagration, either
before or since the Continent was taken possession of by a civilised
people. The different tribes of Indians have traditions of fires even
more destructive than the one it is now our painful duty to record ;
and the charred forests buried in peat-bogs or alluviums bear testi-
mony to the occurrence of those vast surface burnings, that are more
to be dreaded than the floods of liquid lava that buried the cities of
Herculaneum and Pompeii. The great heat and frequently dryness of
the summer months cause the resinous juices to exude from balsamic
plants, whereby they are rendered very inflammable ; and were it not
for the almost universal admixture of the hard woods, whose juicy
leaves resist the spreading of the lashing flame, such catastrophes would
be more common, and far more general in their operations.

In every American State and Colony, laws have been enacted to
prevent the firing of the woods in the summer and autumn ; but where
the clearing of land by burning the timber is an essential occupation,
it cannot be surprising that accidents will happen, or by carelessness
the devouring element gains the mastery, and rushes forward with
devouring energy. Again, dry trees are sometimes fired by lightning ;
and the fire remains unextinguished until the moisture of the passing-
shower is dried, when it spreads abroad, being fanned into fury by tlie
summer breeze.

The summer of 1825 in North America had been unusvially hot and
dry, and fires had raged with more than ordinary violence in Lower
Canada, the State of Maine, and Nova Scotia, In the northern part
of New Brunswick also there had been but little rain, and almost every
vegetable substance lacked its usual degree of moisture. Fires M'ere
raging in the woods at Oromucto, near Fredcricton, and at other places ;
but from them little danger was ajij^rcheiuled. On the Gth October
the heat had greatly increased, and the atmosphere was clouded by

• !s

tlie river, with
:onsumed by a
levastation and

woods in Ame-
is scarcely any
agration, cither

by a civilised
s of fires even
luty to record ;
ims bear testi-

that are more
:d the cities of
ntly dryness of

from balsamic
.nd were it not
s, whose juicy
strophes would

IS.

)een enacted to
nn ; but where
tial occupation,
by carelessness
5 forward with
[ by lightning ;
of the passing
nto fury by the

isually hot and
lence in Lower
! northern part
d almost every
c. Fires were
;t other places ;
le Gth October
as clouded by

NEW BRUNSWICK.

191

smoke, which rose in dense columns from different parts of the horizon.
On the 7th the heat was still unabated, the heavens had a purple tint,
and clouds of black smoke hovered over the devoted district. There
was during the day a perfect calm and a peculiar sultriness, which is
said to have thrown the inhabitants into a state of great lassitude. The
cattle on the pastures became terrified, and collected in groups ; and
the wild animals of the forest rushed out and sought refuge among the
tamer breeds. These fearful signs gave little alarm to the people, who,
although warned by a few individuals, confided in their distance from
the forest and the tranquil state of the atmosphere. Little preparation
was therefore made for the approaching calamity. At seven o'clock
P.M. a brisk gale sprung up, and the greatest darkness prevailed, except
over the line of the fire, the light of which could be seen at times flash-
ing among the clouds of smoke. At eight, the wind increased to a
swift hurricane from the west ; and soon afterwards a loud and most
appalling roar was heard, with explosions and a crackling like that of
discharges of musketry. The air was filled with pieces of burning
wood and cinders, which were driven along by the gale, igniting every-
thing upon which they fell. The roaring grew louder, and sheets of
flame seemed to pierce the sky. It was then the agonies of the dis-
tracted inhabitants appeared, and horrors of the most awful description
were seen in every direction ; — the screams of the burnt, burning, and
wounded ; men and women carrying their children, the sick, aged, and
infirm, through clouds of smoke and showers of fire that threatened in-
stant destruction. Many believed that the day of final judgment had
arrived, and gave themselves over to despair. The piercing cry of
" To the river ! " was not unheeded. Some plunged into the water,
others collected in boats and scows or rafts, or floated on logs, for pro-
tection. Domestic and even wild animals, uttering mournful cries,
mingled with the people, the former dragging their half-burnt bodies
through the cinders of their burning stalls. The whole surface of the
earth was on fire, and everything of a combustible nature united in
sending up the last broad flame, that laid the country, with its towns,
villages, and settlements, in heaps of smouldering ashes. In the space
of a single hour, Newcastle, Douglastown, and the villages along the
northern side of the river were consumed ; of five hundred buildings

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192

NEW BRUNSWICK.

only twcnty-ftvc remained. The Barracks, Court-house, Presbyterian
Church, Hospital, and upwards of 240 houses and stores were des-
troyed at the former place. Three ships with their cargoes were burnt
in the harbour, and two more upon the stocks. But the great fire had
not been confined to this district ; it had swept over tlie whole country
from the Bartibog to t ^ Nashwaak, a distance of more than one hun-
dred miles. It had rus»htu across the mountains of the Upper Tobique,
upwards of a hundred miles distant, in another direction, and wrapt in
flame an area of more than 0,000 square miles ; and it is still painful
to reflect upon the horrors experienced by many new settlers and
lumbermen, who with their families perished in the burning wilderness,
and whose remains were afterwards found in those attitudes of filial
and paternal affection that are so fully exhibited in the hour of afflic-
tion and danger. A number of lumbermen preserved their lives by
wallowing in the brooks until the fire had subsided, and a few families
were preserved by similar expedients. So intense was the heat at
places where the forest hung over the streams, that thousands of salmon
and other kinds of fish were killed and cast upon the shores. Great
numbers of wild animals were also destroyed ; and it is stated by an
eye-witness, that birds were drawn into the flames by some singular
fascination.

A more melancholy scene can scarcely be imagined than this part
of New Brunswick presented on the following day. The whole forest
was a blackened mass of leafless and still-burning timber. Every
vegetable, including the crops of the husbandman, was burnt up, and
the entire surface of the cleared land was shrouded in a black mantle.
Along the northern borders of the Miramichi, groups of half-naked and
houseless inhabitants were to be seen bewailing the loss of husbands,
wives, children, and friends. With them were the burned and wounded,
receiving the kind aid of those who had escaped unscorched. The suf-
ferings of these people were indeed of the most painful character ; but
they were promptly relieved by the inhabitants of the opposite side of
the river and the Province generally, whose charitable associations and
benevolent ladies supplied money, clothes, and provisions ; and, by
generous contributions, the losses sustained under a painful dispensa-
tion of Divine Providence were greatly reduced.

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NEW miUNSWICK.

103

'ITie amount of loss incurred by the great fire, according to nn ac-
count laid before Sir Howard Douglas, then Lieutenant-Governor of
the Province, and made up at Miramichi, was £227,713 13s. 6d.
That sum only included j)ersonal property, goods, buildings, crops, &c.
destroyed. £39,259 7s. lOd. was nobly contributed in New Bruns-
wick, Nova Scotia, Canada, the United States, and Great Britain, and
applied to the immediate relief of the stifFerers ; but the calamity had
extended almost beyond the bounds of calculation, and the Province
sustained an irreparable loss in her forests of timber, which has been
estimated at £500,000. The towns and villages destroyed have since
been recovered, and are now more extensive and better built than they
were before the conflagration.

It is not a little remarkable, that on the same day the District of
Miramichi was laid in ruins, fires broke out in the County of York,
and near the Oromucto. At the former place, while the inhabitants
were engaged in subduing the devouring element a mile from Frederic-
ton, a fire took place in the town, and consumed eighty-nine buildings
and other property to the amount of £50,000. Twenty houses and
bams were also burnt in the neighbourhood of the Oromucto. The
number of persons burnt and drowned at Miramichi was 160; build-
ings destroyed, 595 ; cattle destroyed, 875. — But we turn from this
painful record to describe the remaining part of the county.

The South-west branch of the river receives a number of minor
streams. Of these are, Barnaby River, extending into the parish of
Glenelg ; the Renous stream has a pretty settlement near its mouth.
The Etienne reaches into the Parish of Blackville, where there are
several flourishing new clearings, occupied chiefly by Irish emigrants.
The banks of the main stream are also thinly settled from Newcastle
to Boistown ; and even above that place a number of families have
established themselves upon the wild lands. There is much good soil
in this quarter — although some tracts have an uneven surface, and are
rather stony. Between the main South-west branch, towards its
sources, and the St. John, will be found an immense tract of land
whose soil is better than ordinary, and few places in the Province offer
greater encouragement for extensive agricultural operations.

About a mile above Newcastle, the North-west (Minagua of the
• o

#■

IIM

194

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Indians) joins the Southern hianch. It takes its rise near the Tobiqiie
Lakes, and liigh lands at the head of the Nepisignit. Between tlie
two streams there is a portage to the Falls of the latter. The North-
west branch is perhaps eighty miles in length, and its chief tributaries
are Tomoganops and Sevogle. All these rivulets are navigable for
light canoes, unless at the places where they are broken by falls ; and
they are very useful in afTording a passage for the provisions required
by the lumbermen, and for floating down the timber. A few adven-
turers have commenced the clearing of land on their lower banks.

The main branch is well populated on both of its sides to the dis-
tance of twenty miles from its mouth ; and at a short distance from the
stream there is a thriving settlement of Welsh Methodists, who, with
the Roman Catholics and the Baptists, have commodious chapels in
the principal villages. The mouth of the North-west branch is navi-
gable for ships, and the tide flows up its channel fifteen miles. Saw-
mills are very numerous, and the stream sends down great quantities
of manufactured lumber annually.

A small river called the Bartibog empties itself into Miramichi Bay.
It runs through an Irish settlement containing about forty families,
and 'turns several saw-mills. It was formerly well timbered ; but its
pineries were destroyed, and the surface presents a gloomy aspect since
the occurrence of the great fire. From Newcastle to Burnt Church
there is a passable road, bordered by a succession of farms. This place,
formerly called Neguac, is an ancient camping-ground of the Indians,
who still occupy a reserve of several hundred acres, and resort to it in
the fishing season. The lands are light, and but imperfectly tilled by
the few inhabitants scattered along the shore. Extensive sand-bars
have been driven up along the coast ; but beyond these there are some
excellent fishing-grounds, which are seldom visited by the inhabitants,
who prefer lumbering to almost any other pursuit.

Taboosintac,* the only remaining river to be noticed in the county,
springs from numerous branches in low tracts of land remote from the
shore, and wends its way through some good belts of intervale and
upland, covered by the pines, birch, and maple. It finally makes its

• Indian — " The place of two families or persons. "

NEW BRUNSWICK.

195

deltouchement into a lagoon opened by a cliannel of seven feet water at
common tides. Timber is prepared for market in tbis quarter, and
transported bcnce to tbe Miraniiclii. It bas a village of about sixty
families, witb saw and grist mills ; but tbe occupancy of tbe lands bas
been retarded from tbe existence of an Indian reserve at tbe moutb of
tbe tributary called Cowwesiget, wbicb includes five miles of tbe river's
bank. In spring, tbe moutb of tbe stream supplies plenty of alewives;
and in August, salmon, berring, and mackerel frequent tbe coast —
altbougb few of tbem are taken, and little advantage is derived from
tbe fisbcry. From tbis place tbere are bad roads to Tracodie and
Ncguac. Old Indian portages are still travelled between tbe rivers.
Along tbese streams, and at tbeir sources, tbere is a wide and advan-
tageous field for the introduction of emigrants, thousands of whom
migbt enter upon tbe lands witb advantage to themselves, and benefit
to tbis part of the county, which at present is almost destitute of roads.
Almost the entire area of Northumberland is within tbe limits of tbe
great coal-field of the Province. At several places coal bas been dis-
covered, and at others tbere are indications of its existence. The lands
along tbe coast, like those of the eastern districts, are very low, and at
the distance of fifty miles from the seaboard they are scarcely raised
forty feet above the tide level. This observation will not, however,
apply to the wilderness country at the sources of the North-west Mira-
niichi, where there are mountains of considerable altitude. In the soils
there is considerable diversity. The intervales along the streams are
chiefly fine dark-coloured alluviums, which produce good crops of
grain : the higher terraces contain more sand and gravel, and produce
excellent grain of different kinds, also potatoes and garden vegetables.
Having resulted from the disintegration of tbe sandstones beneath,
many of the upland soils are of a dark, red, or chocolate colour, and
the marly varieties will endure several croppings without the applica-
tion of manure. With these are the gravelly and sandy loams most
frequently reposing on thick beds of detritus. They are more porous
and less fertile, and do not retain their moisture in seasons of drought.
Independently of its timber and fisheries, the county, under a general
view, must be considered favourable for agriculture, fishing, and the
ultimate introduction of general manufacture.

o 2

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IOC

NEW BRUNSWICK.

County of Gloucester.

The County of Gloucester was divided by an Act of the Provincial
Parliament in March 1837, and all its former western part, from Belle
Dime River, now constitutes the County of Restigouche. It therefore
joins Northumberland on the east and south, Restigouchc on the west,
and the Ray Chaleurs on the north. It contains 1,037,440 square
acres, and the latter has a population of about 9,000 souls on 12,000
acres of cleared land. The parishes arc, Rathurst, Ueresford, New
Handon, Caraquet, and Saumarez. From the great extent of the sea-
coast and the number of its rivers, Gloucester possesses great facilities
for navigation, fishing, and lumbering.

Bathurst (formerly called St. Peter's), the shire town and a flourish-
ing sea-port, is situated at the head of a beautiful bay of that name.
This place was the boundary between the Mohawk Indians of Canada
and the Micmacs of Nova Scotia, and several sanguinary conflicts have
taken place between those tribes in its vicinity. It is supposed to
have been occupied by Monsieur Jean- Jacques Enaud as early as 1638.

The town is built upon two somewhat elevated points of land, which
are separated from each other by a shallow estuary. Across this estu-
ary a bridge has been constructed upon piles, whereby a ready commu-
nication is afforded between its opposite sides. The cast side of Bathurst
Point is washed by the mouth of the Nepisiguit. The site of the town
is one of the most bciutiful spots in the Province. It commands a
view of the bay and islands, and the villages and clearings on their
borders, being more than ordinarily healthy. The town is laid out in
a regular manner, and contains a number of handsome dwelling-houses,
warehouses, mercantile and ship-building establishments, an Episcopal
Church, Methodist Chapel, Custom-house, Court-house, and Gaol.
At the western extremity of the bridge are the mercantile houses of
Francis Ferguson, Esq. ; and a cluster of buildings are stretched along
the base of a hill, which is surmounted by a spacious and handsome
Roman Catholic Chapel and Missionary residence. The little basin is
also bordered by good farms and comfortable cottages. The town plat
at its eastern side is the principal site for ship-building, and frequently
from five to ten merchant-ships of the largest class rest upon their

NEW nUUNSWlCK.

197

I j

)f the Provincial
part, from Ik'lle
ic. It therefore
chc on the west,
,037,440 square
souls on 12,000
Bcresford, New
ctent of the sea-
is great facilities

n and a flourish-
\y of that name,
idians of Canada
iry conflicts have
b is supposed to
as early as 1638.
its of land, which
Across this estu-

a ready conimu-
t side of Bathurst
! site of the town

It commands a
earings on their
wn is laid out in
dwelling-houses,
Its, an Episcopal
)use, and Gaol,
pantile houses of
3 stretched along
s and handsome
'he little basin is
The town plat
<;, and frequently

rest upon their

stocks with only sufllcient space between them for the workmen to paw
from the timber-yards to the shore. The front of the town is often
occupied by rafts, and piles of squared timl)er and deals. A number of
ships are annually loaded in the harbour and at the bar for the British
market, and during the summer season the whole scene is enlivened by
active iiulustry. The great road from the Soiithern Counties is conti-
nued across the Nepisiguit at Bathurst by a ferry. A bridge over this
stream is still a desideratum.

Four rivers empty themselves into Bathurst Harbour. Of those the
most important is the Great Nepisiguit.* This river (which, with its
falls, has been l)riefly noticed in a former chapter) is computed to be
one hundred miles in length. The main tnmk, and its branches, the
iiaskoodic, Parbooktie, and Pabineau, descend from the western wil-
derness, and through dense forests of white and red pine, interspersed
by belts of beech, birch, maple, and other kinds of hard wood. It is
thinly inhabited to a short distance from its mouth. Timber may be
floated down this stream from a great distance, although the Falls,
twenty miles from Bathurst, present an obstacle of no ordinary magni-
tude. Timber in descending this cascade is frequently hurled into the
air and broken by its fall, or, being forced against the projecting angles
of rock, is much splintered and otherwise injured. Proliably a sluice
might be constructed wherein it would pass endwise over the precipice,
and fall in the same position into the deep water beneath.

Middle River and Little Nepisiguit are small rivulets partially occu-
pied by settlers on their lower borders. The Tootoogoose f is a pretty
stream flowing from a lake twenty-five miles distant. At its mouth
there is an extensive and valuable farming estate, the property of
Hugh Munroe, Esq. Seven miles above, there is a flourishing Scotch
settlement gradually expanding itself into the forest.

In 1837, the Provincial Government granted a lease for fifty years
to a Company, called the Gloucester Mining Association, of all such
mines and minerals as they should discover, open, and work in the

* Called by the Indians, Winkapiguwick; signifying, "boisterous or trou-
bled water."

t Tootoogoose, "Fairy River" of the Indians; corrupted by tlie French
into Tetc-^-gouche, and frequently called Tattygouch.

•'*,■ •' ' : ■<

\ I '■'-

'h :

. !

198

NEW BRUNSWICK.

term of five years from that date. In the latter period, the Company
expended much labour and money in searching for copper at the mouth
of the Great Nepisiguit, and in boring for coal, at the Capes, eighteen
miles below Bathurst. In both of those undertakings they were un-
successful ; but in exploring for copper on the Tootoogoose River, an
ore of manganese was discovered, and proved to be of good quality.
The mine is situated in the bank of the above stream, eight miles from
Bathurst, in the side of a cliff 150 feet high. The river at this place
falls twenty-five feet, and the water has been ingeniously turned to
propel the machinery required for cleansing the ore, several hundred tons
of which have been shipped for England. The Company have expended
upwards of £10,000 in the enterprise ; but, unfortunately, they have
not yet received any interest from the outlay, notwithstanding the zeal
and ability of William Stephens, Esq. their Agent, and the undertaking
is likely to be abandoned.

All these rivulets descend through tracts of good soil ; but at their
sources the land is rather broken and hilly : yet even in such situations
there are many tracts worthy of cultivation. The soils in the neigh-
bourhood of Bathurst are generally productive, and agriculture has
advanced rapidly during the last few years. Francis Ferguson, Esq.
has upwards of eighty acres under cultivation, and by applying com-
post manure, formed chiefly of lime and peat, he has raised abundant
crops of wheat and other kinds of grain. That gentleman and others
in the town have done much to improve the agriculture of the county,
and the district may now be looked upon as a proper resort for a large
population.

Leaving Bathurst, we may return to the coast, and examine the
Parish of Saumarez, which embraces the headland, with its islands,
situated between Miramichi and Bay Chaleurs.

At the mouth of Tracadie Rivers, there is a lagoon twelve miles
long, with an average breadth of a mile. Through the sand-bar forming
the basin, the channel is too shallow to admit large vessels ; and from
the constant shifting of the shingle beaches, the pilotage is rendered
difficult. These are small sluggish streams, and the lands are rather
sandy. Red and white pine are still to be obtained in considerable
supplies. There are here several large and compact settlements of
Acadian French, containing altogether not less than one thousand souls.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

199

the Company
er at the mouth
Capes, eighteen

they were un-
oose River, an
f good quality,
ight miles from
er at this place
usly turned to
al hundred tons
have expended
ely, they have
anding the zeal
he undertaking

1 ; but at their
such situations
3 in the neigh-
agriculture has
Ferguson, Esq.
applying com-
aised abundant
man and others
of the county,
jsort for a large

d examine the
ith its islands,

n twelve miles
nd-bar forming
sels ; and from
ige is rendered
ands are rather
in considerable
settlements of
thousand souls.

About fifty boats and shallops are employed in fishing; and cured fish
are annually shipped to the markets of Miramichi, Halifax, and Gaspe.
Agriculture is pursued by a part of the population. At Great Tracadie
there is a handsome Chapel, and many of the inhabitants are in very
independent circumstances.

Pockmouche is a broad and shallow stream, not exceeding thirty
miles in length. Its borders have been well timbered, and there are
some intervales near its sources. Small plats of salt marsh at its mouth
produce wild hay. The uplands are very low, and often light and
sandy. The population of Pockmouche is about five hundred persons,
Acadians and Irish, who are chiefly employed in fishing, hewing tim-
ber, and farming. The principal village has its Chapel and School, and
mills have been erected on the stream.

The Harbours of Shippegan and Caraquette have been already
described. From their peculiar situation at the extremity of a cape
projecting deeply into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, they afford many
advantages for fishing, and ample security to the trade and shipping of
the coast. The Islands of Shippegan, Miscou, and Poksudie, also,
from being indented by numerous small coves or bays, are especially
adapted for fishing stations. The former of these is twenty miles long.
The soil, where it is sufficiently elevated to be tilled, is a light sandy
loam, not unfavourable for cultivation with sea-manure. It produces
small birch, fir and spruce, with cranberries, whortleberries, and other
wild fruits.

On the western shores of the island there ure two settlements, called
Big and Little Amacque. The oysters of this island are considered
excellent, and cargoes of them are annually shipped to Halifax and
Quebec.

Miscou Island, forming the extremity of the cape, is twenty-one
miles in circumference. Its northern point is in lat. 47° 58', and in
long. 64° 30'. Previous to the conquest of Canada, the French had
an extensive fishing establishment at this place, owned by the " Com-
pany of Miscou." The remains of their buildings are still to be seen.
It was afterwards occupied by Campbell, a disbanded Highland soldier,
and his family, three of whom were drowned in an attempt to cross to
Shippegan in a boat. Mall Bay, a convenient indentation on its

'iTi

H a !!i

ii'

200

NEW BRUNSWICK.

southern eide, is bordered by tracts of marsh and meadow, which pro-
duce wild hay abundantly. The fishing season is between the 1st of
June and the 10th of July, at which time the boats and vessels of Cara-
quette, Shippegan, and Gaspe hover around the shores, and take from
fifteen to twenty thousand quintals of cod, pollock, and haddock
annually.

These islands, with those of Poksudie, Miscou, and Caraquette, are
inhabited by foxes ; and upon them wild geese and ducks bring forth
their brood. The Americans fish in these waters with impunity.

Opposite Big and Little Amacque, on the main land, is the settle-
ment of Shippegan, whose population, with that of the island, will
exceed 900 souls. The inhabitants are chiefly Acadian French, who
devote their time almost exclusively to the cod-fishery, in which they
employ upwards of fifty boats and a number of small shallops. The
latter craft also fish in the Gulf, and on the banks of Prince Edward's
Island. The soil of Shippegan might be successfully cultivated ; but,
until of late, its capabilities have not been tested by experience. Rafts
of timber are sometimes poled along the shore to Miramichi. The
exports of fish and lumber from this place have increased rapidly during
the last few years, and now amount to £20,000 per annum. The
principal business has been transacted by the Agents of Messrs. Robin
& Co., and Le Boutillier & Brothers, of the Island of Jersey, and who
are also extensively engaged in the fisheries of Gaspe.

The settlement of Caraquette stretches along the shore to the distance
of twelve miles. At its head is the site of an old Roman Catholic
Chapel, one of the most beautiful spots in the Province. On one of its
sides, a stream of water gushes from the rock ; and on the other is a
plat of greensward, surrounded by a rich forest of birch and maple. It
also commands a view of the bay and harbours below, and the distant
mountains of Gaspe. The present chapel is a handsome stone building,
of dimensions suitable to contain 800 persons, and its interior is highly
decorated with paintings and sculpture.

The land is fertile, and, under careful culture, produces grain and the
vegetables common to the country in abundance. The population will
amount to 1,500. They are nearly all Acadians — among whom may
be observed the complexion and features of the Micniac Indians, who

M''

W !

NEW BRUNSWICK.

201

■it

(luring the oarly settlement of the country married with these people,
such u union being encouraged by the French Government from motives
of policy. They send upwards of a hundred boats and a number of
schooners to the fisheries, and from them derive their domestic sup-
plies, and a surplus for exportation.

About thirty families are scattered along the shore to Grand Ance,
where there is also a chapel and several mills. Still farther westward,
there is a group of upwards of eighty families, chiefly Irish from Ban-
don near Cork : hence their village is called New Bandon.

The whole of the lands forming this cape, with its adjacent islands,
are very low, being seldom elevated above the sea more than sixteen
feet. Its level is only interrupted by the channels of the river and
brooks, many of which have their beds but a little lower than the sur-
face. The drier tracts are not the less fertile on that account ; but,
from the lack of a quick drainage, bogs and swamps are more common
than they are in higher districts. The soils are not dissimilar to those
of other paits of the coal-field, and on many of the wilderness tracts
thoy will be found strong and well adapted for wheat and other kinds
of grain.

We have seen that this tract of country, containing at least a thou-
sand square miles, is only occupied by clusters of inhabitants at the
mouths of the rivers and sides of the harbours : even along the borders
of the coast, the native green forest extends to the brink of the sea,
being but partially indented by clearings. In general, only the first
tier of lots has been granted ; the remaining part of the soil the Go-
vernment is ready to dispose of to industrious cultivators. All the
streams abound in trout and eels at all times : salmon, bass, gaspereau
or alewives, and other kinds of fish, are readily taken in their season.
In the deeper waters, are cod, pollock, haddock, halibut, &c. ; and
oysters and lobsters are remarkably plentiful. Wild geese, ducks of
various kinds, curlew, plover, partridges, and other birds, are still
numerous.

This part of the county may be considered to be still in a wilderness
state, and almost without any facilities of communication except by
water. A road is marked on several maps as running along the whole
coast ; but it has no real existence, nor are there any bridges across

f I!

U '.

'■;:i

M.!;"

202

NEW BRUNSWICK.

many of the numerous streams of the parish. The making of roads and
the introduction of agriculture would lead to the more vigorous prose-
cution of the fisheries ; but until there are settlers to occupy the lands,
the opening of roads in the wilderness is of doubtful expediency.

Proceeding along the south shore of Bay Chaleurs from Bathurst to
the mouth of the Restigouche, a distance of seventy miles, we find a
few scattered villages and settlements upon the immediate border of the
sea. The interior country is but little known, except by a few Indian
hunters and lumbermen. It abounds in lakes and rivulets. The latter
descend from the mountainous chain already noticed, and which termi-
nates at the sources of the principal tributaries of the St. John, and the
rivers falling into the Gulf and Bay. Much of the soil is evidently
good, and there are tracts of table land admirably adapted for the
plough. The surface is greatly diversified by hill and valley, and pre-
sents a scene of unusual wildness and solitude.

A few miles northward of the Nepisiguit, there is a settlement called
Petit Roche, comprising two hundred families of French Acadians,
whose ancestors fled from Nova Scotia during its early troubles. The
farms and buildings of these people are small, and lack the neatness
sometimes seen in French villages. They have a large Chapel. The
threefold objects of farming, fishing, and lumbering, pursued by the
inhabitants, are suflScient to account for their slow advancement. Lime-
stone is calcined in this village, and shipped to Prince Edward's Island.

At Belle Dune there are some good farms. The wild lands are
chiefly covered with beautiful groves of birch, and otner kinds of hard
wood. Cedar and spruce are common on the lower tracts ; limestone is
abundant ; and caplin and herring come in such multitudes, that they
are caught and carted upon the soil for manure. The application of
fish for manure should not be tolerated ; and it has been discovered,
that although they increase the growth of a few crops, the lands are
ultimately injured by them, and require annually the unnatural stimu-
lus. The settlers are chiefly Irish Roman Catholics, who have a Chapel
and the occasional services of a Missionary. Francis Guitan, one of
its earliest inhabitants, was one of the dragoons who conducted Robes-
pierre to the guillotine, and served with Bonaparte at Marengo and
Lodi.

\ i

J of roads and
gorous prose-
ipy the lands,
diency.
1 Bathurst to
les, we find a

border of the
a few Indian
I. The latter
which termi-
ohn, and the

is evidently
pted for the
ley, and pre-

ement called
ih Acadians,
ubles. The
the neatness
hapel. The
sued by the
lent. Lime-
rd's Island.
Id lands are
inds of hard
limestone is
5, that they
plication of
discovered,
le lands are
ural stimu-
vc a Chapel
tan, one of
ted Robes-
irengo and

NEW BRUNSWICK.

County of Restigouche.

203

> .i

Still advancing along the coast, we enter the District of Restigouche.
This county is bounded on the south-east by Gloucester, south-west by
wilderness lands, and north by the Bay Chaleurs and Restigouche, or
the boundary between New Brunswick and Canada. It contains
1,266,560 square acres.

Jacquet River, about nhie miles from Belle Dune, descends from the
mountains to the south. It is a rapid stream, scarcely navigable for
canoes. The lands near its mouth are of good quality, and may be
rendered very fertile by the application of lime and murl, of which there
is an abundant supply on the shore. At a short distance from the sea-
board they are still ungranted. This part of the Bay-side is sheltered
by Heron Island and Black Point, which form a safe harbour. The
population is scattered.

It is very desirable that the new road between Bathurst and Dalhousie
should be completed, and the erection of a bridge over Jacquet River is
necessary to a safe and co.nfortable conveyance between those towns.
In 1842 the road was a series of swamps, partially fiUed by short logs,
or projecting masses of rock, ever threatening a capsize to the passenger.
The traveller is sometimes relieved of these obstacles by being driven
along a narrow path to the very brink of the sea-wall — or among the
soft sand, and slippery kelp, and driftwood of the shore, where both
horse and driver are sometimes greeted with a shower of spray from
every wave. The bridges across the gullies are like those built by
children, after a heavy shower, except that some of them are upon a
larger scale, and more deserving of the appellation of horse-traps. To
add to these impediments, the inhabitants, where the ground is level,
have encroached upon the pathways, leaving only the length of a cart-
axle between the fences for the accommodation of the voyageur, who at
almost every step is saluted by the kind " Prenez-garde" of the watch-
ful Acadians.

At Nash's Creek, there is a small settlement a mile and a half inland:
from it to Dalhousie the distance is nineteen miles. Benjamin River,
North and South Rivers Charlo, are small rapid streams.

New Mills, formerly called Merloguish, was first occupied by a

I i

204

NEW BRUNSWICK.

?N'

Mr. Rumpoft, a Dutch merchant, who for m.any years was engaged in
ship-building and fishing at that phacc. The establishment was since
occupied by Wm. Fleming, Esq., who erected grist and saw mills upon
the stream. Heron and a cluster of smaller islands afford good shelter
for vessels, and the inshore fishery is still valuable.

The margin of this part of the Bay is very thinly settled. The popu-
lation consists of Provincials, Scotch, Irish, and Acadian French, who
appear to live together in great harmony. Some fine fields have been
cleared ; and since the attention of the inhabitants has been directed to
husbandry, their labour has been rewarded by substantial crops. Wheat,
although late in ripening, often yields from twenty to thirty bushels
per acre ; oats produce a certain crop ; and all kinds of vegetables may
be successfully cultivated.

Across the mouth of Eel River Tne sea hes thrown up a bank of sand
a mile in length, and the site ♦^Iius offered for a i oad has been improved.
A bridge has been erected to connect the sand-bar with the opposite
side of the stream. The remainder of the distance to Dalhousie is four
miles, and the road passes over three sharp ridges of trap rock.

Eel River is a long, narrow stream : it commences near the Upsal-
quitch, and traverses a fine level district of fertile land almost sur-
rounded by mountains. An opening has been made upon a tract
recently surveyed, called the Colebrooke Settlement, in honour of Sir
William Colebrooke. There are also settlements on each side of the
river near its debouchement. Still, a great quantity of these lands are
ungranted, and there are few localities where a respectable class of
settlers would meet with greater encouragement.

The Indians have a grant at this place of 400 acres, and they resort
to it during fishing and shooting seasons. Their la..d, however, is very
low and swampy, and scarcely fit for tillage. The sea-wall thrown up
across the estuary has formed a large shallow basin, with a muddy bot-
tom, which affords one of the best fisheries for eels in the Province.
The eels are taken by the Indians at all seasons of the year, and supply
them with an important part of their food. When they are skinned
and dried, they are by no means unpalatable ; and when fresh, they
are considered by many to be very delicious.

It is rather singular, that cod-fish in quest of food enter this and

NEW BRUNSWICK.

;>05

otlier shallow estuaries along the coast during the winter season. The
Indians cut holes through the ice, and strike them with spears. Eels
are taken in the same manner. Trout, smelts, and flatfish are also
numerous ; and in spring and autumn the little bay is the resort of
wild geese and other kinds of water-fowl.

The shores, bays, and inlets between Bathurst and Dalhousie afford
excellent fisheries for cod, pollock, haddock, halibut, herring, sea-trout,
smelts, eels, and other varieties of fish. Caplin are so numerous, that
they are often applied to the soil for manure. This destruction of the
small fish reduces the quantity of food intended by nature for the
larger ones, and, if continued, will greatly injure the fisheries. Provi-
dence never intended that any of her gifts should be thus abused ;
and in a district where limestone and arl are abundant, the practice is
inexcusable, and should be prevented by law.

Seals of different kinds are frequently seen in considerable numbers
in the Bay. They were taken by the first inhabitants of this part of
the Province, who carried on a considerable trade in seal-skins and oil.
At present the seal-fishery is not attended to.

Whales of the humpback variety frequent the coasts, and are taken
at the mouth of the St. Lawrence and in the Gulf. They also visit
the Bay Chaleurs ; but the inhabitants are not prepared to encounter
them, although they are readily captured by export whalers.

These waters abound in wild geese and ducks of various kinds. Of
the former, flocks containing thousands feed upon the shores during the
autumn, until the season of their migration l tIvcs, when they depart
for warmer latitudes.

The County of Restigouche is divided into five parishes, — namely,
Dalhousie, Addington, Durham, Colbourne, and Eldon. The popula-
tion in 1840 was 3,161, exclusive of about 1,200 persons who were
supposed to be engaged in the woods, in lumbering, at the time the
census was taken. At that period, the Parish of Eldon contained only
eight dwelling-houses and twenty- seven acres of cleared land. The
whole quantity of cleared land in the county at the present time will
not exceed 6,500 square acres, and therefore a particular account of
each parish is unnecessary.

The Restigouche is a majestic and very beautiful river, falling into

I' }

20G

NKW BRUNSWICK.

' >.■

the spacious harbour at the head of the Bay Chaleurs ; and its tribu-
taries irrigate more than five thousand square miles of tenitory. The
main river springs from a hike in Lower Canada, and through branches
that approach Lakes Temiscouta and Metis. Sixty miles from its
debouchement into the bay, the river turns from a south-west to a north-
west course, and receives a large branch that nearly approaches the
St. John. A large tributary, called the Upsalquitch, also enters from
the south-east, about fi>rty miles above the head of the bay. The
whole length of the main stream is about two hundred miles, and the
waters that are navigable for canoes and rafts will exceed a distance of
four hundred miles.

The river and its tributaries descend through a tract of country of
varied resources and beautiful scenery. They drain a part of that spur
of the Alleghany Mountain that crosses the St. John, and occupies the
central parts of the District of Gaspe. Its appendant tributaries rush
from the mountain ravines with great impetuosity, and throw themselves
into frightful rapids, or over falls, until they reach the narrow valley of
the main stream, whence they are sufficiently tranquil to admit of being
navigated in safety. Upon the borders, and remote from these water-
courses, red pine, white pine, and other kinds of valuable wood are
abundant ; and, by the skill of the lumberman, the timber is launched
down the steep declivities and perpendicular cliffs, through the rapids
and over the falls, until it floats in the tide.

This part of the Province has been spared from those devouring fires
which have been so destructive to the timber in the District of Mira-
michi, and other parts of New Brunswick ; and a century will elapse
before the forests of Gaspe and Restigouche will be exhausted of their
timber resources. The valuable fisheries of the Bay, under proper
management, would supply the elements of a very extensive trade ; and
the valleys, slopes, and table lands of the interior wilderness are
capable of being advantageously cultivated. In the centre of this
great theatre of offered industry and employment, is the splendid
Harbour of Restigouche, which is sufficiently sjiacious to contain the
whole navy of Great Britain, and rivers upon which the first produce of
the country can be cheaply transported.

The entrance of the River or Harbour of Restigouche is between

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NKVV IJllUNSWICK.

and its tribu-
nitory. 7'he
ugh branches
liles from its
;st to a north-
)proache8 the
o enters from
e bay. The
liles, and the
a distance of

3f country of
t of that spur

occupies the
butaries rush
w themselves
row valley of
3mit of being

these water-
)le wood are
r is launched
;h the rapids

vouring fires
ict of Mira-
7 will elapse
sted of their
nder proper
? trade; and
Idemess are
itre of this
he splendid
contain the
t produce of

is between

J>()7

Magashua Point on the north, and Bon Amie's Rock on the south.
The distance between these two headlands is three miles ; and there are
nine fathoms of water, without a bar or shoal to interrupt the naviga-
tion of the port's mouth.

Dalhousie, the shire town of the county, stands at the base of a high
ridge of trap rock on the south side of the river, a little above its
mouth. It contains about one hundred and thirty buildings, among
which are the usual number devoted to religious worshij), a Court-
house, Gaol, and Grammar-school. The principal mercantile establish-
ments front the river, which is lined by wharves, ship-yards, and timber-
booms. The site of the town is on an inclined plane ; but the entrance
to it from the eastward, by land, is over a steep hill, which might be
avoided by giving the road another direction.

In the harbour there are two small islands, surrounded by deep
water, and affording shelter for vessels of the largest class. The
opposite side of the river, which is uninhabited, expands into a beauti-
ful bay, bordered by high cliffs of red sandstone. A very extensive
timber trade is carried on from this port to Great Britain ; fish is also
an article of traffic. The supplies of provisions are chiefly received
from Quebec. During a decline of the timber trade, the attention of a
number of the inhabitants was directed to agriculture; and the Agri-
cultural Society of Restigouche has given an encouragement to hus-
bandry which will not lose its effect now that commerce has again
revived.

The scenery of the town, with its harbour and islands, is very in-
teresting ; but it is tame when compared with a more extended view.
The whole District of Gaspe presents bold and precipitous eminences,
flanked along the shore by perpendicular cliffs of brick-red sandstone
and other rocks, which are cut through where the streams ma'e their
exit into the bay. Upon these cliffs there is a long tract of table land,
which skirts the siiore, while in the rear it rises into mountains of the
most striking and picturesque character. From the hill in the rear of
Dalhousie, the Tracadegash and other mountains of Gaspe are seen
rising in great grandeur ; and the whole country northward is covered
with majestic cones, which are wooded to their very summits. Between
the sharp alpine ridges, walled in by cliffs, there are narrow valleys,

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208

NEW nilUNSWiCK.

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washed by the collected luotmtain torrents in their rapid descent to-
wards the sea. This, the north-eastern extremity of the Alleghany
chain, maintains its bold features to its termination near the mouth of
the St. Lawrence, and offers to the eye a view of an unknown moun-
tain wilderness.

The llestigouclie is navigable for h«rge ships eighteen miles ; in that
distance its average breadth is nearly two miles. Its southern bank is
occupied by a scattered population. The soil is of medium quality ;
and the surface, a little remote from the river, is broken by closely-
wooded hills and ravines.

Point Aninnipk, eight miles, and Point Le Garde, twelve miles above
Dalhousie, on the Gaspe side, are bold prominences, and were military
stations during the struggles of France to regain the Colony. Battery
Point, two miles higher up, was also occupied by a French fort. Seve-
ral pieces of cannon have been found in the sand ; and muskets, pistols,
swords, and culinary utensils have been dug up from the remains of
this fortification. A few years ago, a bottle of molasses and a small
case of wine were also recovered from among its ruins.* This fort was
destroyed by Captain Byron in 1700. It is now covered by a growth
of forest-trees. The Gaspe side of the river at this place also is un-
inhabited.

Campbelltown is situated sixteen miles above Dalhousie. It is a
compact village, with several trading-houses, docks, and timber-ponds.
A number of ships arc annually loaded at this place, and it maintains
a brisk trade with the lumbering parties in the forests. The lands on
each side of the river are rather broken and rocky. There is, neverthe-
less, a narrow flat of good soil along the edge of the stream, which still
continues wide and navigable for ships.

In the rear of the town there is a conspicuous eminence called
Sugar-loaf Mountain. It is 844 feet high, and nearly three miles
in circumference at its base. The side fronting the river is a perpen-
dicular cliff, from which a collection of enormous boulders extend
around the eminence. It can only be ascended in safety on the cast

• Mr. Cooney's work on New Brunswick and Gasp4, 1832.

sidi

tree

loft

and

thrc

til

NKW HRUN8WICK.

209

side.* At other places, boulders weighing several tons arc easily put
in motion, when they roll down the side of the mountain, crushing the
trees at its foot. From its top, it appears to rise from a valley like a
lofty tower. The view from the summit of this hill is extremely grand
and beautiful. The chain of mountains, with lofty peaks, running
through Gaspe, indents the horizon to the north-east. The Bay Cha-
leurs and Restigouehe, witli their infant towns and villages, fill up the
scenery below. To the north, there is a wide area of table land, covered
by a living mantle of evergreens.

Three miles above Campbelltown, there is the large estate of Robert
Ferguson, Esq., one of the first British settlers on the Restigouehe.
His establishment is situated upon a tract containing two hundred acres
of intervale, the chief part of which is under cultivation. Mrs. Fergu-
son was the first English child born in this part of the Province. The
sons of the above gentleman are still engaged in the timber trade of the
county. The example and industry of this family, and a few others,
have mainly contributed to the improvement of this part of the Res-
tigouehe.

The lands on the Gaspe side of the river at this place are high and
broken. The stream is skirted by a few level plats, and small collec-
tions of marsh alluvium. The largest of these level tracts is Mission
Point, the former residence of the Roman Catholic Missionary to the
Micmac Indians. It contains upwards of one thousand acres of good
land, which reposes vipon a coal-field, and at an admirable site for a
town. The Point belongs to the Indians, two hundred families of whom
are settled upon it. They have a large Chapel and Mission-house, and
small parcels of land under cultivation. These people are visited annu-
ally by a Commissioner of Indian Affairs from Quebec, from whom they
receive an {allowance granted by the Government. In general, they are
honest and industrious, and derive a living from lumbering, fishing, and
agriculture.

At Point-au-Bourdo, three miles higher up, there is also a tract of

• We reached the summit of the Sugar-loaf in 1842 by its westevn side ; but
on returning it was necessary to descend over some of the cliffs on the de-
cayed and partially-falkn trees— by no means a safe expedient.

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level ground. This wos the site of the French town Petite Rochcllc ;
nnd the shores nbovc and below that place were occupied by French
villages, until they were destroyed by Captain Byron. They are now
shipping-places, and the margin of the river is skirted by a number of
large and very valuable estates.

The entrance of the Metis or Kempt Road is about a mile above
Point-!VU-Bourdo, and twenty-four miles above Dalhousie. This road
was intended to open a communication between the settlements on the
Bay Chalcurs and Canada, and to form a part of the military route
between the Provinces first proposed by Sir Howard Douglas ; but it
has never been opened to any great extent, notwithstanding it is the
only land communication between the Bay and the St. Lawrence, The
mail was formerly carried up the south-western branch of the Tlesti-
gouchc, and across a portage to Grand River and the St. John. It now
passes once a week over the Gaspe Mountains. The mail-carrier rides
on horseback about sixty miles, from the Restigouche to the Patape-
diac Lakes, where he feeds his horse on wild hay ; he then walks
upwards of forty miles, to the Metis River. This route is uninhabited,
and the path followed by the postman is over a mountainous and broken
tract of wilderness country.

The distance between Campbelltown and Fredcricton, along the pre-
sent circuitous road, is upwards of two hundred miles, while on a direct
route it would scarcely exceed one hundred miles. The necessity of
opening a communication between those two places is yearly growing
more urgent, and a free opening between the Bay Chalcurs across the
country to the St. Lawrence is equally desirable.

Since it has been proposed to construct a railway between Halifax
and Quebec around the heac^ estuaries of the Bay of Fundy, the inha-
bitants of the southern border of the Lower St. Lawrence have ex-
pressed an earnest desire to run the line across the Restigouche, and
thereby unite the towns and settlements of the Bay Chaleurs with those
of Canada. It is certain that such a line must necessarily pass through
the mountainous districts already described ; it may nevertheless be
quite practicable. The opening of the railway as already proposed, to
approach the Grand Falls of the St. John, would materially change the
sites of the common roads between these two Provinces ; but, at the

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NEW nilUNSWlCK.

311

;ite Roclicllc;
zd by French
rhey ure now
/ a number of

a mile above
e. This road
inicnts on the
military route
luglas ; but it
(ling it is the
iwrcncc. The

of the Tlesti-
John. It now
il-carricr rides
to the Patape-
\ie then walks
is uninhabited,
)us and broken

along the pre-
lilc on a direct
e necessity of
early growing
urs across the

tween Halifax
ndy, the inha-
nce have ex-
tigoiiche, and
uvs with those
pass through
cvcrthejess be
y proposed, to
Uy change the
but, at the

same time, it would confer advantages upon the inhabitants that can
now scarcely be anticipated. From its excell • hours, numerous

rivers, fisheries, timber, and other resources, t ihern part of New

Brunswick is rapidly rising in importance. 'l,io opening of the rail-
way, or the roads already alluded to, would render accessible to the
emigrant and settler vast tracts of valuable country, and bring into
operation much of the natural produce of the districts at present unoc-
cupied. The upper part of the Uestigouche and its tributaries, all
flowing through wild forests, have been described with the other rivers
of the Province.

For many years after its first discovery, the Restigouchc afibrdcd a
most profitable salmon-fishery ; but since the waters have been visited
by crowds of lumbermen with their rafts, tow-boats and canoes, and
saw -mills have been erected on the smaller rivulets, it has declined :
and there is an annual decrease in the number of salmon that frequent
the stream.

On the Gaspe side of the Bay Chaleurs, there are a number of flou-
rishing settlements : among them are the villages of Nouvelle, New
Richmond, Tracadcgash, and Caspcdiac. The inhabitants are a mixed
population of Acadians, Irish, and Americans, many of whom are occu-
pied in the different employments of fishing, lumbering, farming, and
hunting. The remoteness of their situation from the seat of Govern-
ment, and the want of a land communication to the St. Lawrence, have
retarded the advancement of tho'T civil and moral institutions ; and too
frequently there is a reckless disregard of the laws of the country, which
heretofore have been very imperfectly administered among them.*

The facilities of communication by water had a material effect upon
the construction of roads in the Province during its early settlement —
and, indeed, until a few years ago, a good road could scarcely be foimd

* It is necessary that emigrants, or persons in any part of Great Britain who
intend to settle in the northern parts of New Brunswick, should embark on
board vessels bound to Mirainichi, Uichil)ucto. Bathurst, Rpstignuche, or some
port on the south side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence or Bay Chaleurs. If they
take shipping to any of the ports on the Bay of Fiuuiy side of the Province,
they will incur the expense of travelling over a land route of perhaps two hun-
dred miles, which is very considerable.

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NliW BRUNSWICK.

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in New Brunswick. Steamers, sloops, batteaux, and canoes traverse
the principal streams in summer. In winter, sleds and sleighs, drawn
by horses and oxen, pass over the ice, and transport ponderous loads of
wood, hay, and agricultural produce to the markets, returning with all
kinds of merchandise into the interior country. Many of the roads
used in summer are abandoned in winter, and the inhabitants prefer
travelling upon the ice rather than on roads liable to deep snow-drifts.*

Excepting the lines between Bathurst and Dalhousie, Fredericton
and St. Andrew's, St. John and Shepody, there are tolerable roads dur-
ing the summer between all the towns and principal villages. In spring,
when the frost i^ escaping from the earth, and during the late autumnal
rains, some of them are rendered almost impassable, and no established
system of road-making has yet been introduced, even upon the post-
roads. In the first settlement of the country, the pathways, which were
afterwards improved as roads, mounted some of the highest hills, and,
to avoid bogs and swamps, the routes taken were frequently very cir-
cuitous. The altering and levelling of such roads, and the construction
of new ones, have required the expenditure of large annual grants by
the Province, ■'•^.'■h, although not always economically applied, have
greatly improved the country.

By the settlement of the vexed question of the payment of the Civil
List in 1827, the Crown surrendered to the Province its future reve-
nues from nngranted lands and timber, and a sum of no less than
£171,224 was placed at the immediate disposal of the Legislature.
From thot time, the opening of new roads, the improving of old ones,
the construction of bridges and other public works, continued until
1842, when it w; s discovered that the treasury was exhausted, and the
Province involved in debt. A flourishing revenue has since relieved
the embarrassment in some degree, and grants of money for every ob-
ject are now made with more inquiry and caution. During the "golden
days," as they were called, expensive surveys were made in laying out
roads across the forests in all directions, and in many situations whore

• Accidents frequently happen in the spnng when the ice bec^omes unsound,
and whole teams sometimes break through into the water. Compared with the
risk and danger, the loss of life is rare.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

213

the best turnpikes would, from the lack of population, have remained
untravelled. Large sums were expended on routes that were afterwards
abandoned, and a system of reckless extravagance prevailed that was.
unprecedented in the history of the Colony.

The roads are divided by the Legislature into two great classes-
Great roads, and Bye roads, as they are termed. The former, from
extending between towns through the principal settlements, and by
giving passage to the mails, are the most important. A number of
them are travelled by mail-coaches, or carriages, at a rate but little
inferior to the ordinary rate in England.* The management of these
roads is entrusted to supervisors who reside in different counties.

The bye roads extend from the great roads to the remotest settle-
ments and clearings, being opened, improved, and repaired by legisla-
tive grants of money and the labour of their inhabitants. Those grants
are from £5 to £100 and upwards, and their whole number, and for
similar objects, in some years has exceeded six hundred. For each
grant or appropriation a Commissioner is appointed, and the patronage
for oiRce is altogether in the hands of the Members of the House of
Assembly, who exert it tc no small extent for electioneering purposes.
It therefore happens that the most active partisans of the successful
candidate are duly honoured by Road Commissions, and for appropria-
tions greater or less according to their ability in canvassing, rather than
for road-making. Besides the grants of money made annually by the

• The following are the principal great roads, with distances, and the fares
required from passengers who travel upon them by post: —

From St. John to Fredericton, 65 miles ; fare, 203. cuvrency.
„ St. John to St. Andrew's, G5 miles ; fare, 20s.
„ St. John to Miramichi, via Bend of Peticodiac, Shediac, and Richibu

206 miles ; fare, 60s.
,, St. John to Miramichi, via Fredericton, 172 miles; fare, £3.
„ Fredericton to St. Andrew's, 60 miles; fare, 2Gs.
,, Fredericton to Woodstock, 60 miles; fare, 20s.
„ Woodstock to Grand Falls, 72 miles; fare, 308.
,, Grand Falls to Point Levi, Quebec, 220 miU's ; fare, £5.
,, Miramichi to Bathurst, 48 miles; fare, 208.
,, Bathurst to Canipbelltown, 71 miles; fare, 30».

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

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Legislature to improve the roads, the whole population from sixteen
years and upwards are compelled by law to perform statute labour per-
sonally, or to pay an equivalent in money. The amount is from two
to twenty days, including the labour of oxen and horses, according to
the circumstances, property, or income of the individual.

The whole system of road-making is decidedly objectionable. In
the swamps of many of the new roads, large logs are cut, from ten to
fourteen feet in length, and rolled into the mud and water, and left
uncovered by earth: these are called *• cross-ways" (causeways), bet-
ter known to the traveller in America as corduroy bridges. Draining
is much neglected, and often the centre of the road is covered with wet
clay, peat, and rotten wood, through which it is next to impossible for
a horse to draw a pair of wheels, should he not stick fast in the at-
tempt. The statute labour is generally performed in June ; and for
several weeks after it is completed, travelling is greatly retarded, and
sometimes rendered dangerous. Stones, rush-bog, masses of hard clay,
heaps of earth, and mud from the bottoms of the ditches, are often
thrown upon the turnpike roads. The maxim of the workmen is,
** We will throw on the materials, and leave the levelling thereof to the
public." The result is, that, to avoid such impediments, the traveller
turns from side to side, and along a straight line of road the path is
a serpentine track, with a ditch on one hand, and heaps of riibbish on
the other. Many of the ** bye" roads are intolerably bad, especially in
the spring, when the frost is escaping from the earth. Yet, with this
representation, it is proper to remark, that at almost every season there
are some good roads, and during the summer a great number of them
may be travelled with ease and satisfaction.

Hitherto the bridges have been very imperfect "n their conotr'!rti'>n,
being often washed away by the freshets producF J by the melting snow.
The building of a bridge is frequently let 'jy contract to the lowest
bidder ; hence the work falls ii.to the hands of persons totally unac-
quainted with civil engineering ; "ind i+' It fall down or is swept away
by the floods, the contractor is looked upon as an unfortunate rather
than an unqualified bridge-builder.

There is a very general post communication throughout the Pro-
vinc«. Mails are carried upon the principal " great" roads in passenger

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III

KEW BHUNSWICK.

215

coaches, and to the chief* settlements there are post-riders.* The rate
of postage is high, and very generally complained of. The news from
England by the Atlantic steamers arrives at St. John from Boston
earlier than it does from Halifax, where they touch and land the New
Brunswick Mail before they proceed to the United States. The Legis-
lature and the Chamber of Commerce at St. John have endeavoured
from time to time to promote the more speedy despatch of the Mails,
for which the Province pays liberally ; but their labours have been
baffled, and so long as the highest office of the Post service is made
an hereditary endowment, regardless of ancestral embezzlement and
defalcation, rather than a gift to merit, intelligence, and activity, the
cause of the present complaints will scarcely be removed.

Halifax and Quebec Railway.

The first proposition to construct a railway between any part of the
Atlantic or Bay of Fundy and the St. I^awrence had its origin at St.
Andrew's, and a Company was formed and incorporated, called the
" St. Andrew's and Quebec Railroad Company," at that place, with a
proposed capital of £750,000. The distance between the two places is
270 miles, chiefly through a wilderness country, a part of which is not
very favourable for cultivation. In 1836, the sum of £10,000 was
granted by the Government, and expended in making the survey.
After leaving St. Andrew's, the line was to run almost direct to the
River St. John, between Woodstock and Houlton ; it then made a
curve until it reached the valley of the Aroostook — thence, with several
deviations, to the St. Lawrence, opposite Quebec.

Since the above survey was made, a part of the country over which
the line was to pass has been given to the Americans by the Ashburton
Treaty, in the settlement of the Boundary dispute. If a new line were

,:*

• '^.16 sums granted by the Legislature for the improvement of the roads
in 1646 are —

For the Great Roads .... £ 13,500

Special Grants 3,070

Bye Roads 13,500

Total

£30,070

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to be established upon British ground, it would be objectionable, on
account of being very near and running parallel to the American fron-
tier, whereby it could be readily interrupted in the event of any colli-
sion between the inhabitants of the borders, or in time of war between
the two countries. Nor could such a line form a continuous route
between Great Britain and Canada, as the harbour of St. Andrew's, is
sometimes ice-bound in v le winter season ; and were every other cir-
cumstance favourable, Nova Scotia and the chief part of New Bruns-
wick would derive no advantage from it whatever.

The construction of a canal between the head waters of the Bay of
Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, at Bay Verte or Shediac, had
been in contemplation many years, and in 184o a survey of the coun-
try was made by Captain Crawley, R.E. ; b'- the report of that engi-
neer was unfavourable to the enterprise, and of late the undertaking is
seldom noticed.

The idea of opening a free channel of communication through the
Lower Provinces to Canada, and thence onward to the Pacific Ocsan,
presented itself to MacTaggart. The report of the late Lord Durham
contains a similar suggestion. Dr. Rolph, in his work on Emigration,
has also detailed some of the leading advantages of a railway between
Halifax and Quebec. In 1845, a Provisional Committee was formed in
London, in order to undertake the great work : prospectuses were cir-
culated in the Provinces, and a general interest has been excited in
favour of the undertaking. Persons deeply interested in the welfare of
the Colonies have brought the subject to the notice of the Home Go-
vernment, and the Colonial Legislatures have expressed a willingness
to promote the noble national enterprise. Surveys and examinations
of the country are already in progress, and thousands of Colonists are
looking anxiously forward to the time when the work shall be com-
menced.

The original proposed line of railway communication was between
Halifax and Quebec, passing around the estuaries of the Bay of Fundy,
that the route might be rendered continuous or uninterrupted. The
Chamber of Commerce and inhabitants of St. John have made objections
to such a line, as it will not approach their city. They propose to lay
a railway between St. John and Fredericton and the Grand Falls, and

NEW BRUNSWICK.

217

to continue the route across the Bay of Fundy by steamers to Digby
Strait, whence a railway may proceed to Halifax. In the present state
of the country, such a line, when constructed, would remove all neces-
sity for a railway in the other direction.

In reference to the western route, it is practicable to run a railway
from Halifax to Digby Strait, the only accessible point for a steamer in
the winter season. From Digby to St. John, across the Bay of Fundy,
the distance is forty-five miles. From St. John to the Grand Falls, the
continuance of this line must be on the west side of the river ; on the
east side it would be almost impracticable, from the extent of Kenebe-
casis. Belle Isle, and Washadamoak Bays, and their intervening high
and broken lands. The line, therefore, would run from Carlton, oppo-
site St. John, in the direction of the present post-road to Fredericton.
From Carlton to the Grand Falls, by this route, there are no insur-
mountable difficulties. From some point near the Grand Falls to the
River du Loup, and thence to Quebec, the routes of both lines would
be the same.

From Carlton to the Oromucto, a distance of fifty-four miles, the
railway would pass through a thinly-populated tract of country, the
soil of which is rather below medium quality, and the inland transport
inconsiderable. Several blocks of wilderness land have been surveyed
in this quarter by the Government ; but the good tracts that could be
obtained to meet the objects of emigration are very limited, compared
with those that would be intersected by the eastern line. From the
Oromucto, through Fredericton to the mouth of the Aroostook, the
borders of the St. John are well populated, and there are a number of
settlements a little remote from the river. Between the Aroostook and
Madawasca there are only a few inhabitants, except at the small village
of the Grand Falls — a military station. The distance from Halifax to
Quebec, by the present mail route, along the proposed western line and
across the Bay of Fundy, is 614 miles : estimated distance by the
railway, 575 miles.

The objections that may be made against this route are, the risk of
crossing the Bay of Fundy at certain periods in the winter season, and
the delay of embarking and disembarking passengers and goods from

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218

NEAV BKUNSWICK.

the trains to a steamer, and from the steamer to the trains of a
railway.*

Should the magneto-telegraj hie wires he laid the whole distance, the
Bay of Fiindy, in the present state of science, presents an insurmount-
able difliculty, and one that does not exist in a route altogether over-
land. The western line must necessarily pass a long distance near the
boundary of the Americans, who, hy the Ashburton Treaty, have a right
to navigate the St. John. The eastern line would be separated from
the boundary by the river, and therefore it would be safer from inter-
ruption in the event of any outbreak or disturbance upon the border.

There is another consideration in regard to the actual profits that
would he derived from a railway between Halifax and Quebec. A line
from St. John to the Grand Falls would run by tlie side of a fine navi-
gable river. The traffic between those two places is in British manu-
factured goods and provisions upwards, and great quantities of timber
and agricultural produce downwards. From the speed of railway
travelling, the chief part of the upward carriage of passengers and light
goods, during the winter season especially, would be upon the rails ;
but in summer that carriage would ■ e divided between the trains and
the river steamboats which now ply between St. John and Fredericton.
Again, from the facilities offered by the river foi: transporting lumber
downwards with the current, the old, cheap, and natural channel of
transport of all wood kind would be on the water, and not upon the
rails. Yet, a railway to St. John and the Grand Falls would cross a

* If both lines were laid and in perfect operation, and locomotives, with trains
attached, start at the same instant from Halifax, in each direction, with an
equal velocity, at the moment the western trains would be at Digby, 148 miles
from Halifax, the eastern trains would be at a point within twelve miles of the
Bend of the Peticodiac. Now, five hours would be the least time that woidd be
required for a steamer running ten miles an hour to cross the Bay from Digby
and make a landing at St. John. During those five hours, the trains on the
eastern route would have advanced at the rate of thirty-five miles an hour, or
] 75 miles. By having run a more direct course, they would be 200 miles in
advance of the western cars, or be at Madawasca when the western trains
would be ready to leave St. John. Time is distance in railway travelling, and
the difference of time in favour of the eastern route is of much importance,

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

219

the trains of a

portion of the great New Brunswick coal-field, and approach beds of
iron ore at Coot Hill and Woodstock ; other minerals might also be
developed by its construction, and promote its successful operation.

The eastern line between Halifax and Quebec would follow the
almost level line of the abandoned Slmbenacadia Canal, from Halifax
to Truro, the distance being sixty-five miles by the post-road. It
would pass through a settled country, and form the main channel of
transport from and to Pietou, and all the eastern settlements of Nova
Scotia. Besides the ordinary objects of traffic of the above pl.ve, coal,
limestone, gypsum, sulphate of barytes, and other minerals, might be
transported to Halifax advantageously. The line would then pass
through the populous and thriving villages of Onslow and Londonderry,
and having passed through a gorge in the Cobequid Mountains, it would
enter the County of Cumberland. I have recently examined an
immense deposit of iron ore recently discovered at the Londonderry
Mountain :* it is one of the most extensive iron beds in America, and
the ore, of the ichest variety, is situated at a spot where there is abun-
dant water-power to propel machinery, and both wood and coal for
fuel. Fortunately, this valuable site for the manufacture of iron is not
embraced by the monopoly of the General Mining Association, who
have prevented the opening of mines in Nova Scotia, and is so pecu-
liarly situated that it would supply all the iron required for the railway.
In Cumberland the railway would approach Tatmagouche, Wallace, and
Waterford Harbours ; and before reaching the Bend of the Peticodiac, it
would pass through the fine agricultural districts and populous villages
of Amherst, Fort Cumberland, Sackville, Dorchester, and Memramcook.
The coal-field of Cumberland would be intersected at points where it is
productive, or near the outeroppings of Springhill and River Philip.
At the former place, one of the coal strata is twelve feet in thickness ;
the coal being of a superior quality. There are also in this district
inexhaustible supplies of limestone, gypsum, freestone, and grindstone,
with salt springs. The population of the County of Westmoreland is
now equal to 20,000. In that county and in Cumberland there are
10,000 acres of diked marsh yielding wheat and hay. The whole face

i' :f :.

* This is called a moimtain, although its altitude seldom exceeds 400 feet.

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

of tlie country between Sackville and the Bend of the Peticodiac is
occupied hy flourishing settlements. The number of passengers and
amount of railway traflic to and from this wide area would be very
great.

Tlie railway would run directly from the Bend to some point north-
ward of the Grand Falls (140 miles), touching Boistown on the
Miramichi, and in the direction of the military road surveyed by Sir
James Alexander and a party of Royal Engineers in 1844. In that
distance it would cross the -loal-field of New Brunswick to the distance
of 120 miles, and would be over a country remarkably level and favour-
able for the enterprise. Excepting only a few new settlements and
clearings, this part of the line would be through vast tracts of ungranted
land. The surface in general is very level, or gently undulated. At
the sources of the streams there are belts of intervale, and other exalted
lands ; the higher grounds have a red loamy soil, interspersed by spots
of sand and gravel. The tillage surface is variable in regard to quality :
swamps, bogs, and patches of almost barren sand are not uncommon ;
but they bear a small proportion to the quantity of surface fit for cul-
tivation, and which is frequently covered by fine belts of hard wood,
spruce, pine, and other kinds of timber. In moist situations grow the
ash and elm, and the swamps are occupied by white maple and alder.
The whole of this woody region is watered by the branches of the rivers,
a part of which empty themselves into the St. John, and the others into
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, or Bay Chaleurs. The main South-west
Miramachi and the Tobique are navigable for boats and rafts of timber
far above the sites where they would be crossed by the railway, and it
is at the sources of the streams that the best timber in the Province is
now obtained : the groves that stood near the most navigable rivers
having been felled and shipped to Great Britain, the railway would,
therefore, give a new impetus to the timber traffic, and open forests of
pine, and other kinds of wood, which have hitherto been considered
almost inaccessible. The country between the Peticodiac and Bois-
town contains coal, iron ore, gypsum, limestone, freestone, marble, &c. ;
and, excepting coal, these minerals are found as far west as the valley of
the Tobique. A geological survey is about to be commenced of Prince
Edward's Island, to which isolated province the contemplated railway

NEW BRUNSWICK.

221

I '

would afford many advantages ; and the whole district under considera-
tion is one of great resources and capabilities, and offers comfort and
independence to tens of thousands of industrious emigrants. Not less
than 5,000 square miles of wilderness land remain unoccupied in this
part of New Brunswick, where the physical advantages of the country
are equal to any of the other parts of British America.

The Grand Falls of the St. John have been mentioned as being
situated on the route of the railway ; but it is by no means probable that
the line would touch that point, — it would rather run farther north. Here,
again, another vast tract of country, abounding in excellent timber and
fine intervale and uplands, would be laid open to the emigrant and
settler. The Tobique is navigable for boats and rafts 100 miles from
its mouth : all the lands from its debouchement into the St. John to the
base of Blue Mountain (50 miles), to the north, are capable of successful
cultivation, and many of them are superior in quality. From the region
of the Tobique the railway may extend to Madawasca, and thence to
River du Loup, and the banks of the St. Lawrence ; but the difficulties to
encounter in this quarter are greater than on any other part of the line,
on account of the elevations and unevenness of the surface. It has
been stated that provisions and West India goods passed along this part
of the proposed line in 1845, to lumbering parties in the neighbourhood
of Lake Metis, to the amount of £50,000. It will then run upon
favourable and almost level ground to Quebec, and through an agri-
cultural district containing upwards of 100,000 inhabitants. The whole
distance between Halifax and Quebec by this route is stated to be
between 500 and 550 miles. The estimated expense of constructing
the railway over the latter distance, at £5,000 per mile, is £2,750,000
currency : of that sum it has been proposed that the Government shall
advance £1,000,000, in return for the transportation of mails, troops,
and military stores ; the remainder being supplied by the Legislatures
of Canada, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, and stock taken by an
incorporated Company.

On the completion of the great line, branch railways would com-
municate with it at different points. The most important of these
branches would extend to St. John, Miramichi, and from Truro to
Pictou in Nova Scotia. In no part of New Brunswick would a rail-

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WEW BllUNSWICK.

way yield i.^ ^nany advantages to that Province as the one lastly re-
ferred to ; it would lay the country open through its centre, and give
it all the benefits of foreign and doiuestie interoours^ . Along the
whole course of the antieipated roi'te, various kinds of timber are
abundant, and may be cheaply obtained, even in the most populous
villages. At numerous places it may be felled at the sites where it
would be required- Along the entire line as above proposed, the
country contains numerous rivers and small streams, capable of afford-
ing almost unlimited water-power. The value of those streams would
be enhanced if the atmospheric system should be adopted, and they
give the cheapest means of carrying machinery for manufacturing pur-
poses. White and red pine, spruce, hemlock, larch, yellow birch, and
other trees, still bring remunerating prices in Great Britain : now, the
railway would render accessible the timber of the interior, and not
only supply a necessary article in its own construction, but, by being
carried forward to the commercial ports, its profits would quickly re-
turn a pa. c of the great outlay required for the new mode of transit.

In America, there is no branch of industry that receives more benefit
from railways than agriculture, to which they transfer a great amount
of time and animal strength, and afford a cheap and expeditious con-
veyance for the surplus produce of the farmer. It is particularly for-
tunate that the proposed line will pass through a country whose climate
and soil are highly favourable for agriculture, and whose timber and
mineral resources are not surpassed in America. The line throughout
is perfectly practicable for the ordinary kind of railway ; but should the
atmospheric system bear the test of experience, it will doubtless be
better adapted to the climate and country than any other yet dis-
covered.

A proposition has recently been made to muke the Atlantic terminus
of the railway at Canseau, in Nova Scotia, instead of Halifax, the
former port being nearer Great Britain than the latter.* The terminus
at Halifax is very strongly fortified — a circumstance of the highest im-

* The idea was originated by Capt. Owen, R.N., at present engaged in
making a survey of the Bay of Fundy, and author of a work in defence of the
doctrines and principles of the well-remembered Johanna Southcoate.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

2)^3

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portance in the event of a war with any liostilo power. It haa also one
of the finest hat hours in thf world, and a dock -yard for naval repairs.
Canscau is unfortified, and is also liable to be obstructed by ice at
certain periods in the winter. It could be taken by a small force of an
enemy ; and if the military and naval establishments of Halifax wore
removed thereto, the Government would sustain a loss nearly equal to
the expense of constructinj^ a railway between the Atlantic and the St,
Lawrence. But at whatever place the railway may commence, it should
be viewed as a national work. By the support and aid of the Ilritish
Parliament and the Colonial Legislature, the enterprise maybe rendered
perfectly safe both to the Government and individuals, and thereby
call forth the capital required for its completion. Its magnitude and
objects are beyond the grasp of private speculation, and should be
secured against jobbing by legal enactments. Millions of Her Majesty's
subjects are already interested in promoting the xmdertaking, and they
now look forward to the consununation of a scheme which would
cement the British North American Colonies together in one impregnable
mass, alike for strength and durability, and for ever secure their loyal
attachment to the mother-country.

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CHAPTER VII.

AQKICUI'TURE.

W '4

Climate.

One of the most striking peculiarities of tlie climate oi" New Brunswick,
unci indeed of all North America, is its low mean annual temperature,
and greater extremes of heat and cold, compared with places in corres-
ponding latitudes in Europe. The changes of temperature are perhaps
not more capricious than they are in Great Britain ; yet they run to a
greater extent, and exert an influence over vegetation scarcely known
in that country. Edinhurgh is nine degrees farther to the north than
Quebec, yet its mean annual heat is six degrees higher than that of the
latter place.

The burning sands of Africa, a northern sea, and a vast surface of
cleared and cultivated land, all have a tendency to elevate the medium
and check the extremes of temperature in the Old World. Between
the Pole and the inhabited parts of North America, there is a wide area
of land, whose mountains and valleys are covered with almost perpetual
snows, by which the temperature of the whole Northern Continent is
greatly lowered. The relative quantities of land and water, the posi-
tions of continents and islands, altitude and longitude, modify the dis-
tribution of solar heat, and exercise important operations in the climates,
of which no correct data can be drawn from their mere distances from
the polar point. From the great breadth of the American Continent
towards the North Pole, a vast surface is overspread by snow and ice,
which almost bids defiance to the summer heat. From that cause
alone, the winds which blow from the north and north-we,;t are cool
even in the hottest months of the year ; and in winter they immediately

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NEW lUlUNSWICK.

jisr*

lower the mercury of the thermometer, and occasion intense freezing.
Their influence is manifest from Baffin's Bay to the Gulf of Mexico.
From liaviny passed over an expanse of water, a north-cast wind hrinjjs
n <lainp atmosphere over Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and which
is severely chilly rather than intensely cold. Frequi-ntly also it brings
rain or snow, but never fog.

Along the wholo Atlantic coast, and cspeeially in Nova Scotia, a
soutli wind is always warm. The heat imparted to the atmosphere by
the gulf-stream which sweeps the southern border of the continent,
greatly increases the temperature of the coasts. A south-west wind,
from passing along the land of the American Continent, is warm and
agreeable, except on the shores of the Bay of Fundy, where its vapour
is condensed in thick fogs, which prevail during the summer. These
fogs lie along the shores, and do not extend to beyond fifteen or twenty
miles into the interior, where, by the increased heat of the air, they are
qiiiekly dispersed.

From having a cold continent on one side and a warm sea on the
other, a shifting of tlie wind in New Bnmswick produces a great change
of temperature, which has been known to rise or fall sixty degrees in
twenty-four hours. The clearing of the land of its dense forests greatly
mitigates the severity of winter and the heat of summer. The imbroken
wilderness woods retard the melting of tlie snow in spring, and accord-
ingly, as they are cleared away, so will the season for vegetation be
prolonged. On the 10th day of June, 1842, there were snow and ice
among the mountains of the Upper Tobique, and a few patches remained
unmelted at Madawasca ; while in the more cleared and cultivated parts
of the Province, the meadows and wheat-fields were clothed in green
and luxuriant vegetation. On the 11th of the same month, snow fell
along the valley of the Aroostook and Upper St. John ; at Fredericton
and in the older agricultural districts, there was rain without snow :
although this snow fell directly upon the newly-risen grain, It did not
retard its growth, and the warm weather that immediately succeeded
brought all kinds of plants forward with astonishing rapidity.* On the

* These summer snows are called by some of the inhabitants white poultices,
and are supposed to promote the growth of wheat and other grain.

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

12th (lay of Septoirher of the snme year, while the Aulhor and liis son
were exploring the sources of the Rcstigouche River, ice was I'rozeu
half an inch in thickness in their canoes rluring the night ; while at the
inouth of the stream no frost had been seen, and rich crops of wheat
were in full harvest.

The gradual amelioration of the climate produced by exposing the
earth to the direct rays of the sun is demonstrated by past experience.
In 1783, when the Loyalists landed in New Brunswick, snow was lying
on the coasts in June ; and during several following winters the cold was
excessive, and the snow fell to far greater depths than it c^oes at the pre-
sent time. In 181G, there was a fall of snow on the 7th of June ; and
it iiiis been stated that there were frosts in every month of that year.*
The later years have been milder, although not free from intense cold
in winter, and the vicissitudes common to almost every climate.

There is a considerable difference between the climate of the coast
and that of the interior. The former is characterised by humidity, and
the latter by a dry atmosphere. The extreme degree at

Below Above
Zero. Zero.

St. John is from 23" to 88° Coast.

llichibucto . 22 — 91 Coa.^t.

Fredcricton . .'55 — 95 Interior.

Tl'.e extreme heat in some situations, and during a few hours in the
day, will raise the mercury to 100". From the 5th to the 20th of July,
in 1842, along the Tobique River, the average of the thermometer iu
the middle of the day was from 90° to 95" ; and frequently the mercury
would rise to 100° in the shade. There is a great change of tempera-
ture in the forest during the night, when the heat will often fall to 50"
and 45°.

The severe cold of the winter commences about the 1st of January,
and continues until the 20th of !March, in which time the thermometric
indications in the interior are as low as 20", occasionally 30", and rarely
35°. The cold snaps, as they are called, are relieved by thaws, and
days of clear, cloudless skies, in which the inhabitants, wrapt in furs,

* Ni't;ti;i (if Ni'w Hrunswick.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

007

t ^^

turn out for sleigh-riding, and vehicles of every model and colour ai'c
put in motion on the rivers and turnpikes. The atmosphere is often
loaded with a frosty vapour, which from shaving keenly, is called the
barber. This light, frigid powder is spread over the whole face of the
country, and clothes the traveller and his team with the most delicate
crystals of ice. Then there are the driving storms, piling up the snow
into hills, burying the cottage, filling the roads, and covering the earth
in robes of white. In calm weather, the buildings and trees crack with
the frost, and give out sounds like the explosions of gunpowder. The
ice breaks, and sends a long rumbling noise alo^ig the river valleys.
Every process of vegetation stands still, and nature seems to rest from
her labours. In such days of intense frigidity, the population are by
no means inactive, and the men are stimulated to acts of gallantry. Nor
is the 1)usiness of the country permitted to languish : the axes of the
lumberman and backwoodsman are employed among the brittle woods
of the forest, and preparations are made to meet the labours of summer ;
the farmers are employed in threshing their grain, and cutting and
sledding fuel, and poles for the repair of their fences. The snow, of
which many Europeans have a great dread, is extremely useful : iipon
it the heavy timber of the forests is hauled along by oxen and horses to
the rivers, and the stacks of hay are removed from the marshes and
intervales. A long winter with a deep snow is viewed as bemg moyt
favourable for the crops of the succeeding season : it is also considered
most healthy, and the snow is said to " keep the earth warm." In the
spring following such a winter, there is little frost in the ground, and
frequently the grass begins to spring beneath the deepest snow-drifts.
Yet, with all its industry, winter is the season of gaiety and amusement :
the gentlemen are more than ordinarily attentive to the ladies, and
courtships are more frequent than in the sultry months of summer.

From the 20th of March to the 20th of April, the thermometer
ranges between 35° and 45° in the middle of the day. From the 15th
of April there is a great increase in the temperature : notwithstanding,
it sometimes freezes before dawn in tbe morning.

June, July, and August have very similar temperatures ; the ther-
mometer averaging at mid-day from 70 "^ to 85°. After the 15th of
September, the mornings begin to grow cool ; and from the middle to the

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

2oth of November, it again begins to freeze a little in the mornings.
Frost is seen some years at Frcderic^on in seven months of the twelve,
and fire is required in sitting-rooms from 210 to 230 days in the year.
Frost frequently destroys the tops of the potatoes about the first of
October ; but there is a great diversity in the seasons, and in some
years the sjjring opens three weeks earlier, and the autumn is later than
in others.

In the latter part of April, the rivers and lakes break up, and the
snow is melted ; yet the winds are cool, and there is much unpleasant
weather, with sleet and rain. The prevailing summer winds are from
the west, south-west, and south. In May the weather becomes settled
and fine, and the uplands may be planted. The intervales which are
overflowed arc not planted until June.

The climate of New Brunswick differs but little from those of the
State of Maine, Lower Canada, the northern shores of Lake Huron, and
part of the Michigan territory. In the summer, twilight is seen after
nine o'clock in the evening, and day begins to break at two in the
morning. The aurora borealis is very brilliant at all- seasons.

In Nova Scotia the winter usually commences about the last of No-
vember, and continues to the 20th of April, which ushers in a cheering
spring. From a scries of observations made in both Provinces in 1842,
we noted that the spring of that year was twenty-one days later on the
St. John above Woodstock than it was at Cornwallis and Windsor, in
Nova Scotia ; and twelve days later than at Westmoreland and Sussex
Vale, in New Brunswick. On the 2nd day of May of that year, in Nova
Scotia wheat was four inches ' "^h, and gaspereau and smelts had en-
tered the river ; on the 12th, swallows had arrived ; on the 23rd, plum,
cherry, and apple trees were in full blossom, and the boblink had begun
to sing, which is the signal for planting maize, or Indian corn : on the
14th of June the above trees opened their blossoms, and the songsters
had begun their carol between Fredericton and Woodstock.

In consequence of being very cold, and having the border of its Bay-
of-Fundy coast covered by fog ni the early part of summer, the climate
of New Brunswick has been unsparingly condemned by some writers
and geographers. The whole country lias l)een represented as being
involved in fog during the summer months, the remaining part of the

NEW BRUNSWICK.

n the morningis.
s of the twelve,
ays in the year,
out the first of
s, and in some
mn is later than

eak up, and the
nuch unpleasant
• winds are from
becomes settled
•vales which are

)m those of the
jiike Huron, and
^jht is seen after
k at two in the
easons.

; the last of No-
ers in a cheering
ovinces in 1842,
lays later on the
and "Windsor, in
land and Sussex
at year, in Nova
d smelts had cn-

the 23rd, plum,
blink had begun
an corn : on the
nd the songsters
;ock.

order of its Bay-
uner, the climate

by some writers
csented as being
ning part of the

year being intensely cold ; it has also been stated to be unfavourabU'
to European constitutions and unfit for agriculture : but such declara-
tions have been made without any sound knowledge of the Province,
its climate or resources.

From th{^ foregoing account, it might be supposed that the season of
vegetation is too limited for the ripening of grain, vegetables and fruit,
or that the heat of summer would occasion droughts equally unfavour-
able to agriculture ; but tlio shortness of the season is abundantly com-
pensated by the almost miraculous rapidity of vegetation, and the short
period necessary for ripening the productions of the country. Only
ninety days are required to grow and ripen wheat, rye, barley, and oats,
under a medium temperature of 52° : pulse, peas, and a number of
garden vegetables, are brought to maturity in a much shorter period.
It has also been said that New Brunswick has only two seasons — the
hot and the cold — and that the country has neither spring nor autumn.
To such as entertain that opinion, the verdure of May, with its early
fragrant flowers, has no charms. Even before the ground is altogether
cleared of deep drifts, along the lanes and fences vegetation begins to
spring, and the trees put forth their leaves. Before June arrives,
Nature, in myriads of forms, begins to display her beauties ; the over-
flown streams begin to retreat within their summer bounds, and the
whole country is enlivened by the music of the sweet songsters of the
forest. The beauty and serenity of the autumn in North America are
unrivalled in any other part of the world. After a few sharp night-
frosts, as the season advances, the boundless verdure of the forest and
of the coppice wood on the borders of the rivulets is transformed into
every tint of colour: the leaves of the maple are stained scarlet; the
fluttei-ing poplar is of a sombre brown ; and other trees display rich
dresses of red, violet, and llow, glittering in endless variety : the firs,
and other evergreens, always prepared for winter, alone resist the change
by which the mountain forests appear to be decorated in holiday attire
before the period arrives when their trunks and limbs are to be loaded
with ice, and their gay leaves scattered to the piercing winds.

Before the frost begins to be severe in November, a delightful inter-
val occurs, called the Indian summer. The weather is calm, the air
bland and warm, and there is universal serenity. The Indians, who

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

have been wandering over the country during the hot months, improve
this season by removing to their winter quarters, and arc seen upon the
lakes and rivers in canoes, with their poppooses,* dogs, gims, camp
bark, and the few culinary utensils required in their simple mode of
living, A single canoe generally contains a family and all the personal
propert^;' of the establishment. At this period the aurora is remarkably
brilliant, and snipe, woodcock, and other birds of passage, take their
flight to the south. No very satisfactory explanation of the phenomena
of tliis peculiar season has yet been given. It is probable, however,
that its chief cause is the rapid decomposition of the fallen leaves, and
other vegetable matter, hastened by night-frosts and the heat of the
sun at mid-day. The great quantity of gases thus evolved doubtless
effect important changes in the atmosphere and its temperature. The
electricity of the earth, from being greatly increased, may also promote
the expansion of the aurora at the time.

Under a general view, the climate of New Brunswick is decidedly
healthy, and there is no diocase peculiar to the country : still, it is
proper to speak of it with some degree of circumspection in reference
to the Bay-of-Fundy coast. The humidity of the atmosphere and fogs
of this shore induce coughs, influenzas, rheumatism, and pulmonary
consumption ; yet, those diseases are not more frequent here than they
are at New York, where one-seventh of the deaths are from pulmonary
complaints. The intennittent fever, an acknowledged drawback on the
settlement of Upper Canada, and the terror of the inhabitants of more
southern latitudes, is unknown in the Province — indeed, it cannot exist
there, and patients who are affected by it are soon restored to health
after landing upon her shores.

In the interior, the diseases are few and comparatively simple.
Fevers of a typhoid character are most prevalent, but they are gene-
rally mild. When the intervales and marshes of the country shall have
been drained, and the rising of miasma thus checked, such fevers will
in a great degree subside. From the vicissitudes of the weather, and
the exposure of many of the inhabitants, especiilly the lumbermen, in
rafting timber upon the waters, inflammations are not unfrequent ; but

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NEW BRUNSWICK.

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tho agricultural population are remarkably liealtliy, and there are lew
country practitioners of medicine who ever obtain more than a comfort-
able living, — a fact to be ascribed to the salubrity of the climate, rathir
than to their moderate charges.

The most fatal diseases are those brought into the Province by passen-
ger-ships and vessels from foreign ports, which frequently introduce the
smallpox, measles, and other contagious disorders. Vaccination is neg-
lected, except in the towns. Diseases of the alimentary organs (or dys-
pepsia) are common, although not very fatal : they are induced among
the lower cla'- '^s by a poor diet, bad cooking, and frequently oily food,
such as fried fat salted pork, which is much eaten by fishermen and
lumbermen. Calculous diseases are unknown among persons who have
been born in the country, Tlie free use of ardent spirits has destroyed
many ; but since the introduction of Temperance Societies, the use of
strong liquors is nmch diminished, and there is an evident improvement
in the health and morals of the labouring communities. With a view
of the above facts, we agree with Mr. M'Gregor, who considers the
climate as healthy as that of England.

Shocks of earthquakes occurred in the Province in the years 1663,
1827, and 1839 : of these notice will be taken in treating of the Geo-
logy of the Province. The aurora borealis is sometimes extremely
brilliant, and rises to the zenith: on the 7th of November, 1835, at
seven p.m., it gave a red light, which afterwards changed to a blue, and
then to a green colour; — on the 2jth of January, 1836, at eight p.m.,
the sky was of a deep red colour, whicli lasted until half-past nine.
I\Ieteors are common at all seasons of the year.

I-

In Agriculture, under a proper climate, the first and most important
objects of consideration are the soil, and the means whereby its fertility
can be improved, where naturally meagre, or impoverished by continued
cropping. In the topographical description of the Province, we have
made some general remarks on the soils of di^'erent districts ; but to
enter into a detailed account of each variety would quite exceed the
limits of this work — they are too numerous and varied, and at present
they have been insufficiently tested to admit of a full description in
regard to tlieir virtues. Some of the most important characters of soils

nil!

232

NEW BRUNSWICK.

ii-ii";;!;!'

I, .1 1 ttti'

are, however, discovered by a knowledge of the geology of the tracts
upon which they rest — by reference to the sources whence they have
been derived, and the agents to which they are exposed.

All the different kinds of soil have had their origin in the rocks —
the solid framework of the globe. The rocks may be divided into two
great classes — one of which has been formed through the agency of
water, and the otlier by the operations of heat. Each of these classes
is divided into groups or formations, which differ from each other in
chemical composition, and consequently by disintegration afford differ-
ent kinds of soil. As the character of the rocks may be ascertained
froui the soil resting upon or near them, so may the qualities of the soil
be discovered by reference to the rocks, each variety of which produces
a kind peculiar to itself. Geology is therefore of the first importance
to agriculture, and a geological map of every country is a chart of its
soils.

The surface of New Brunswick presents an assemblage of apparently
heterogeneous substances, thrown togetner in great confusion ; but,
upon inspection, it will be found that not only the rocks, but the soils
reposing upon them, succeed each other in regular order, and their
boundaries may be traced upon a map. First the naked rock will be
seen protruding through the soil, or lifting itself into lofty mountain
ranges, where its nakedness defies the arm of industry : yet, the opera-
tions of heat, frost, moisture, and other meteoric agents, are constantly
reducing the flinty mass, and forming a fertile mould, which, if not
retained in the shallow basins of the table lands and slopes, is carried
downwards to the valleys, to render them more favourable for the pro-
duction of plants. Then there are collections of rounded masses of
rocks, called boulders, as unproductive as the solid mountain cliff. To
these succeed extensive beds of gravel, sand, and clay, above which
there is a covering, varying in thickness, called the soil, differing only
from the general deposit beneath it in being reduced to a finer state,
and by containing the remains of plants that have flourished upon it.
Again, there are extensive deposits of alluvial matter, which are col-
lecting daily from the disintegration of the rocks and previously-formed
beds. These are the most fertile soils ; for the more finely mineral
matter is divided, the better it is adapted to vegetation — the most recent

NEW BRUNSWICK.

233

productions of the earth's chemical and mechanical agents are best
fitted for the support of vegetables.

It is very evident that the whole surface of North America, at some
period of the earth's history, has been submerged beneath the ocean,
and exposed to violent currents. By the operations of these currents,
and ice, the rocks have been transported, in boulders, gravel, and sand.
The beds of clay and fine materials have been produced by the falling
of sediment in situations where the waters were tranquil.

From the operations of powerful currents, the detrital deposits are
not always confined to the surfaces of the rocks whence they were
derived, but are frequently spread abroad over other rocks, and thus
the hard and unyielding strata have been covered by rich diluvial
matter. In the districts of the Grand Lake, Sussex Vale, Westmore-
land, and other places, the red and claret-coloured soils of the sand-
stones have been scattered over rocks that would have yielded a covering
far less productive or favourable to vegetation. The direction of the
currents that have produced these effects can still be ascertained in
many situations : in general, they have proceeded from the north to-
wards the south ; but there are many local variations from their general
course, and consequently in their results.

In North America, the chains of mountains and hills in general run
from the south-west towards the north-east, seldom varying farther
than north-north-east and east-north-east. Those are also the courses
of the stratified formations which lean against the mountain ranges.
We therefore find belts or tracts of soil running in those directions,
and resting on the slopes or in the valleys. The diluvial currents have
scattered the soils of each group of rocks southward of their original
sites, but not so far that the belts of those soils may not be traced along
the country. We have, then, a geographical distribution of soils, a
knowledge of which is highly important in the settlement of a new
country.

In the counties of Charlotte, St. John, and King's, large tracts of
land are occupied by granite, syenite, and trap rocks. Granite also
abounds in the wilderness part of Gloucester, and syenite appears in
the southern parishes of Westmoreland. The soil on these rocks is
peculiar, and very difterent from the mellow covering of Kent and Sun-

234

HEW BRUNSWICK.

bury. From the disintegration of granite, silex, clay, lime, magnesia,
and potasli result; and the syenite yields almost the same constituents.
Tlie soil derived from trap roek contains nuieh potash, and almost
always produces hard wood, sueh as beech, birch, maple, oak, ash, and
butternut. Tlie granite and syenite are also favourable to the growth
of those trees ; but, frequently, where there is a sufficient depth of
earth and the land is sandy, white and red pine grow to great size.
Upon those rocks the soil is frequently scanty, and there are large plats
of hard, stimy ground by no means productive ; yet, wherever the soil
is finely pulverised and abundant, wheat, oats, and potatoes grow well,
and Indian corn is remarkably successful. Along the coast of the Bay
of Fundy, grauwaeke, hard, argillaceous, and talcose slates, with lime-
stones, are predominant. These rocks are chiefly covered by groves of
cedar, spruce, fir, hackmatack, and small pines, with laurel bushes and
cranberry bogs, except where there are deep beds of gravel or sand :
their surface is unfit for cultivation, and the best of the soil is soon
impoverished, unless freely manured and well tilled. The high and
low intervales on the streams are very fertile.

The coal-field of New Brunswick occupies an area of no less than
10,000 square miles. It embraces the chief part of Westmoreland, the
whole of Kent, three-quarters of Northumberland, the northern part of
Gloucester, a part of King's, nearly the whole of Queen's and Sunbur}',
and more than one-hulf of York — counties along its southern border.
Near Studholni's Millstream, at Butternut Ridge, Sussex Vale, Hills-
borough, and Sackville, there are thick deposits of limestone and
gypsum. The prevailing deposits are conglomerates, red marly sand-
stones, and shales. The soil derived from those rocks is extremely
fertile, and presents niueh variety, even on a single tract. The clays
are of every degree of tenacity, from the plastic mortar to the light
and friable mould that crumbles before the plough. Then there is the
red marly loam, often deep, and resting on a subsoil of clay, with a
good proportion of humus. These soils resist the drought of summer,
and produce abundant crops of wheat, oats, rye, barley, buckwheat,
flax, potatoes, turnips, and all kinds of culinary vegetables ; but they
are less congenial to Indian corn than the more light and sandy earth ;.
In the valleys the soil is still more mellow, being of a dark brovvu

■|5IM \'"f

NEW nilUNSWICK.

2.35

colour, antl ahoiinding in humus : witli these there are patches of lit^ht,
fine, red and yellow sand, beds of coarse sand and gravel, .id occa-
sionally hogs of peat, and swamps covered by alders, and 'i stunted
growth of other trees, with laurel, iiva iirsi, and cranberry vines. The
alluviums forming the best intervales are a dark brown mould, from one
to twenty feet in thickness, which from being annually irrigated, like
the banks of the Nile, are always fertile. Some of these intervales have
resulted from the labours of the industrious beavers, which, imtil they
were destroyed, constructed dams across the rividets to supply water,
in which they were protected from t]>eir enemies. They are now called
beaver meadows.

It has been already observed thai all the lands upon the coal-field
are remarkably low and level, especially so on the coast of the Gulf of
St. Lawrence ; the character of i^e surface at difFerent places has also
been noticed : it may, however, be remarked that the soil on this great
tract differs from that of th<. -alcareous and gypsiferous district above
described. On the coal-field it partakes of the characters of the rocks
beneath, such as the conglomerates, sandstones and shales, and it is
evidently less fertile than in those situations where the limestones and
gypsums are present. The silicious soils are most abundant in the coal
region : there are, nevertheless, beds of red and blue clay, forming a
subsoil ; when the latter is imcovered by any other kind of earth, it is
quite sterile. The red soil from the red sandstones, and the blue soil
from the grits of that colour, are frequently very favourable for culti-
vation. With these argillaceous beds there are tracts of red sandy
loam, r?d and white sand, collections of gravel and boulders. The
blue clay and white sand predominate in the tracts called Barrens, Car-
rihoo, and Blueberry Plains, which, in their present state, are worthless
for tillage. With all these drawbacks, the whole area of the coal dis-
trict, under a general view, offers a wide field of good tillage land, and
many tracts are capable of being rendered remarkably fertile. The
crops raised upon these lands, so far as they have been cleared and
cultivated, do not differ materially from those of the southern division
of the Province ; yet the scanty proportion of lime in the soil renders
it less favourable for tlu' production of wheat.

Extending from the American frontier across the llivcr St. John,

\.i

\mm

"4
'i

ii3C>

NEW BRUNSWICK.

'S*^

i<M^

between Woodstock and Mndnwusca, in a north-east il-rectlon, to the
llestigouche and Bay Chalcurs, there are extensive groups o" calcareous,
argillaceous, and silicious rocks. They embrace thick strata of Silurian
limestones, from which the soil has evidently derived a due .juantity of
calcareous matter, to render it active, and fit it for the cvltivation of
wheat and other grain. The superiority of this kind of soil has been
proved at Woodstock, Wakefield, Belle Dune, and on the banks of the
Restigoucho, where it bears heavy crops of wheat at its first tillage,
and is afterwards readily renovated by manure. The best soils in the
Province are those containing certain proportions of silex, lime, alu-
mina, and humus. It is exceedingly difl^icult to point out the exact
proportions of those substances which should be present, under all cir-
cumstances, for general productiveness. Those proportions should be
regulated by climate, temperature, and more especially by the peculiar
nature of the plants the farmer is desirous to grow. The facilities by
which some earths absorb water and retain moisture are much greater
than others ; and as water performs an important ofl'ice in vegetation,
the soils that are placed upon declivities, and are therefore speedily
drained, require a larger quantity of retentive clay than such as are
placed in lower situations. Sand permits the water to escape by ab-
sorption, and more readily by evaporation, than a clayey loam ; and if
there be anything peculiar in the soils of New Brunswick generally, it
is the almost universal existence of an argillaceous subsoil, which is of
the first importance in dry seasons.

All the upland soils have been derived from the disintegration of the
rocks beneath. Even the alluviums, so often mentioned, can be traced
to their birth-places, whence they have been transported by the freshets
of spring and autumn ; and the terraced borders of the rivers owe their
origin to currents of water.

The facilities for obtaining manure are by no means limited in New
Brunswick. The shores abound with marine plants, and at many
places oyster-shells may be calcined and applied to the soil with great
advantage. This kind of lime is employed at Shediac, but seldom at
other places. Peat is abundant, and is occasionally used as a manure,
under the name of black mud, or black muck ; but, in its simple and
unfermented state, or when carted from the bog directly upon the land,

NEW DHUNSWICK.

2.37

•ection, to tfie
o'ccalcarcouH,
ita of Silurian
le luantity of
ci Itivation of
soil has been
banks of the
s first tillage,
t soils in the
X, lime, alu-
out the exact
under all cir-
)ns sliould be
y the peculiar
c facilities by
much greater
in vegetation,
'fore speedily
n such as are
escape by ab-
loam ; and if
c generally, it
il, which is of

gration of the
can be traced
y the freshets
^ers owe their

tilted in New
ind at many
il with great
at seldom at
as a manure,
s sim^ile and
pon the land,

in most cases it is worthless. It is only when this substance has been
drained of its acidulated water, mixed with other manure, or thrown
into composts, that it becomes a stimulus to the soil. Limestone is
widely disseminated in the Province, and gypsum may be cheaply ob-
tained in a number of the districts ; yet little of the Ib.-mer is used in
agriculture, and the virtues of the latter remain almost untried. Excel-
lent marls have also been discovered along the coasts.

A few years ago, marsh mud or sea alluvium was applied to grass
lands and sandy soils in Nova Scotia, and proved to be very beneficial.
The practice has extended, and found its way into New IJrunswick, and
fine crops of wheat arc raised in both Provinces by mixing it freely
with the upland sands. From the great numbers of sea-birds that fre-
quent the islands along the coasts, it was supposed, after its discovery
in other countries, that guano could be procured in the Province ; but
the climate, heavy rains, frosts and snows, prevent the accumulation of
that kind of manure in North America.

Great quantities of ashes remain upon new lands after the timber has
been felled and burned. Although the first crops of grain are good
upon such lands, it is not certain that the ashes are of any advantage,
and they are injurious to the quality of potatoes. It is remarkable
that those ashes are not manufactured into potash in New Brunswick,
in the manner they are employed in Canada.

On many kinds of soil, the burning of timber has a beneficial effect,
which may be ascribed to the agency of heat, and the potash supplied
from the ashes. 1 have observed, that granitic soils are not improved
by burning, and some of them are injured by powerful fires. Perhaps
this may arise from the quantity of alkali being increased beyond what
is necessary for the support of vegetation. The burning, notwithstand-
ing, destroys the seeds of noxious plants, and leaves the earth in a
state whereby all its energies are devoted to the planted crop. T'.ie
finest potatoes are raised on new land whose heavy timber has been re-
moved, as it sometimes is, for fuel, and whore only the decayed leaves
and small branches are consumed upon the ground.

The period is rapidly advancing when agriculture must form the
essential pursuit of the chief part of the population of New Brunswick.
The demand for timber has heretofore led thousands o*' the most active

238

NEW nUUNSWiCk.

,1.:! I

• *

liiiiii

inliiibitants into tho forests, ard siiw-inillH for tho rnanufacturc of wood
for exportation havo been erected by tbem upon almost every strcavi
and rivulet. The faeililies of proeurinij timber, the abundance of fish
on the coasts and in tlie rivers, and plenty of game, directed the atten-
tion of the early iidiabitants away from tlie tillage of the soil, and agri-
culture has I en considered an inferior occupation. It is natural
enough in all new countriin, that the objects of eonmierce most readily
obtained without the aid of science or skill, and such as mett with a
ready demand, should first employ the inhal)itants. The system of
industry is only changed by necessity; and no sooner will the pineries
of New Brunswick disappear, or the lumbermen be driven so far
from the rivers that their employment will cease to be profitable, or
an unfavourable change take place in the timber market, than he will
leave his occupation and engage in another.

It has been supposed by many, that by drawing the population away
from husbandry, lumbering pursuits have been disadvantageous to the
country. To certain limits, such an opinion may be in some degree cor-
rect : but it should be considered, tluit the lumbermen have discovered
and explored new districts ; they have opened the winter roads, cleared
the rivers of obstructions, and been the pioneers of many flourishing
settlements. From the timber trade, a number of small towns have
sprung up, commerce has received its chief support, rnd tho Province
derived a large revenue. Any at*^empt to check the enterprise of the
people, or to turn it from one pursuit to another, would be fruitless ;
they will direct their labours into channels that seem to them most
inviting and profitable. Every country has its epochs of industry :
the present, in New Brunswick, is the timber period, which will be
followed by the agricultural, fishing, and, finally, the manufacturing
eras.

The scientific Sir Howard Douglas was among the first to discover
that New l^runswick wan capable of a high degree of agricultural
improvement, and of affording a substantial and comfortable subsist-
ence to a large farming population. In February 1825, that gentleman,
who was then Governor of the Province, assembled the Members of
the Legislature and other individuals at Fredericton, and addressed
them in an eloquent speech, in wliieli he strongly urged the necessity

NKW miUNSWlCK.

J>.'«)

^ I

lutiiro of wood
t cvorv strojiM
iiulanc'o of fish
did the ntteii-
soil, ami agri-
It is natural
I' most readily
IS meet with a
ri\i' system ol'
ill the pinerie.s
driven so far
profitahle, or
;'t, than he will

ipulation away
ta^'eous to the
me degree cor-
lave diseovored

roads, elcared
any flourishing
dl towns have
[I the Province
terprise of the
1 be fruitless ;
to them most
is of industry :

which will be
manufaeturinsr

rst to discover
jf agricultural
rtable subsist-
lat gentleman,
e Members of
md addressed
the necessity

(if extending ag.iculturc and improving the exa-Uent waste lands.
Agricuhural and I'iinigrant Socioties were inuncdiately form"d, a Sav-
ings Hank was established, and the most improved breeds of animals
were ordered from Great Britain. Ploughs and other instruments of
husbandry were also brought into the Province for models ; and emu-
lation was excited in i)loughiiig-matelus, ' •wliibitions of stock, and the
distribution of premiums. The impulse thus given to husbandry has
had a lasting .-Ifect, and resulted in many improvcuu-nts. Agricultural
Societies are still in operation in each of the counties,* and there are
a number of gentlemen who, by their influence and example, are
endeavouring to amend the system of tillage, and to improve the dif-
ferent breeds of domestic animals.

A great number of farmers are Ftill (irmly attached to the old system
of their forefathers, and the Acadian French are not readily moved to
adopt modern improvements. Nothing short of the plainest facts will
turn such from their accustomed habits. When the crops and stock
of any individual are increased by the introduction of a new system,
the ell'ect on the surrounding country soon becomes manifest : whatever
is gained by observation is inuncdiately acted upon, while the demon-
strations of science are disregarded. It is chiefly on this account that
experimental farms would be advantageous to the Colony.

His Excellency Sir William Colebrooke, the present Governor of
the Province, has made some exertion to promote the settlement of the
poor on wild lands, and to infuse a spirit of industry into the humbler
classes ; and his labours, although performed under many disadvan-
liigcs, have not been altogether unsuccessful. But New Brunswick
still lequires a vast addition of industrious emigrants to its population ;
and before che fertile lands can be very extensively and properly culti-
vated, there must be an increase of labour and science. Annual grants,
from jP25 to £100, have been made by the Legislature to Agricultural
Societies in different counties ; it being generally required th!\t each

* The reports from eight different counties in 1812 show extensive improve-
ments in the raisuig of wlieat, some of wliich weighed 70 lbs. per bushel ; and
a Committee of the House of Assembly declared, tha* e "eld cry," that
New Brunswick is not a wheat-growing country, was ] tically contradicted
every year 1)y those firmers who pay due attention to tlu' mode of cultivation.

if ftf

240

NEW BRUNSWICK.

Society shall raise a sum by Bubscription equal to their grant. Yet
the timber interest, as it is called, sonietimes operates against the appro-
priation of the public money to agricultural purposes, and there is a
lack of energy among a part of the farming population.

The soil of the Province is well adapted for grass. In mrny of the
low vv'ilderness districts wild hay is plentifully dispersed, and a variety
called " blue joint" makes excellent fodder for young cttlc. The
seeds dropped from loads of hay carried into the forests by lumbering
parties spring up, and the track of the forest-men may be traced in the
wood by lines of clover. The principal upland grasses are red and
white clover, timothy, luceinc, and a few indigenous varieties. The
intervales and meadows that have never been under the plough, and are
reserved to supply hay, produce many kinds of wild grass, which on
the drier grounds are mixed with the clovers. The difterent kinds of
grain cultivated for bread are wheat, summer rye, winter rye, oats,
Indian corn, barley, and bu'^kwheat. The soil in general is well adapted
for wheat : even along the Bay-of-Fundy coast its growth is strong ;
but from the moisture of the atmosphere it is liable to rust, which pre-
vents it from ripening. It is generally sown broadcast, on land
ploughed in the autumn, or early in the spring : the produce is from
fifteen to thirty bushels per acre. An improvement has been made in
Nova Scotia of late in the culture of wheat : the land (either diked
marsh or upland) is ploughed in the autumn ; in the month of August,
when the surface has become starved to the depth of three or four
inches, and is in a peculiar dry and crumbly state, it is sowed : by this
method the grain yields a better crop, and ripens before the season of
rust has approached. The same method might be pursued in New
Brunswick generally with success. The application of marsh mud to
dry sandy soils is also very favourable to the growth of wheat. Winter
wheat is seldom raised, and but few sound experiments have been made
in the cultivation of its different varieties. Summer rye is sown in the
spring upon the poorer kinds of land, and yields from fifteen to twenty
bushels per acre. Winter rye, which is much superior for bread, is
seldom cultivated. Upon good old land, or burnt ground, it will return
forty bushelrj per acre. It should be sown about the first of September.

Oats thrive well upon almost every soil, and as the crop is generally

NKW BRUNSWICK.

241

leir grant. YcL
:ainst the appro-
, and there is a

In mnny of the
!cl, and a variety
ig cfttlc. The
its by lumbering
be traced in the
ses are red and
varieties. The
I plough, and are
grass, which on
fterent kinds of
i'inter rye, oats,
1 is well adapted
owth is strong ;
rust, which pre-
adcast, on land
produce is from
as been made in
id (either diked
onth of August,
f three or four
sowed : by this
ire the season of
)ursuod in New
if marsh mud to
' wheat. Winter
have been made
e is sown in the
iftcen to twenty
or for bread, is
id, it will return
it of September,
rop is generally

sure, they are extensively cultivated, and give from twenty to forty
bushels fv.m the acre. The raising of maize, or Indian corn, has been
neglected for several years, notwithstanding it returns a very profitable
crop in most seasons. It requires a light, warm soil, and plenty of
inamu'e : after the ground has been well prepared, furrows should be
run across it three feet apart ; a shovelful of stable manure that has
been carefully kept over the preceding season, or the same quantity of
manure from the hog-sty, should be put beneath each hill, into which
six * kernels of corn should be dropped and covered with fine earth to
(he depth of nearly two inches, according to the dryness or moistness of
the soil ; it should be hoed throe times, and kept free from weeds.
Pumpkins aic frequently planted with the corn, which yields from
thirty to sixty bushels per acre.

Flax and hemp grow well, and are abundantly stocked with the
fibrous coating. It is remarkable that they are not more extensively
cultivated upon the dry intervales, which are admirably fitted for their
growth.

In the first settlement of the country, flax was raised by almost
every farmer, and linens formed an in )rtant part of domestic manu-
facture ; but since the introduction > i cotton cloth, which is now so
cheaply manufactured in Great Britain, the country fema'es have laid
aside their spinning-wheels, and the good, durable linen tablecloths of
their grandmothers are supplanted by the varnished cotton of their
American neighbours.

Buckwheat is sown about the last of June, and the crop is sometimes
injured by early frosts. Barley thrives well, yet it is seldom sown.

Almost all the culinary roots raised in Europe flourish in New
Brunswick. Different kinds of turnips, beets, carrots, parsneps, man-
gel-wurtzel, and other roots, are chiefly raised in gardens, and are not
yet planted in fields. Of all the nutritious roots, potatoes are of the

The old American rule is, Jo drop in each hill of corn-
One for the cut-worm,
One for the now,
One for the grub,
And tlu'ee for to grow.

242

NKW BRUNSWICK.

■'SM

1 1' ^M'

\fm

greatest importance, as they supply an important article of food to all
classes, and are a most useful auxiliary in the maintenance of cattle
through thr long winters. They are raised universally both upon old
land and ne^^ , and always occupy plats in the gardens of the wealthy :
they cover the fields of the farmer, and are the first produce of the
backwoodsman, who brings them forth from amidst the stumps of his
clearing, and treasures them up as his safety-fund in the day of want.
Potatoes yield a most certain and valuable crop, and may be considered
the most staple article of food, and the best substitute for bread in the
Province. The mode of cultivation is by planting cuttings in drills
from one to two feet apart. In old ground, the land is marked by
shallow furrows from eighteen inches to two feet asunder, and the seed
being dropped along each furrow, is afterwards ploughed in, or covered
by the hoe. Subseqiiently, the plough is run between the furrows, and
the plants are hoed twice. On new or burnt land, the planter drops
the seed upon the surface, and then covers it with earth : the plant is
seldom hoed in such ground. At the time of dragging, the potatoes
are seen protruding from the earth, and are found even bencatli the
roots of the trees,^ which appear to be no impediment to their growth.
The potatoes r*aised on newly-cleared land arc of superior dryness and
flavour. The produce on old lands is from 150 to 400 bushels per
acre ; and on new ground, where a part of the surface is occupied by
stumps, from 100 to 250 bushels ^ ^r acre. Eight hundred bushels of
potatoes may be raised on an acre of land.

The inhabitants of New Brunswick suppose that the potatoes of their
Province are superior to those of Nova Scotia; but there is little ground
for their partiality:* Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and Prince Edward's
Island are equally favourable to those roots. The crop of the last year
(1S45) was affected by the same disease that spread itself over the whole
American Continent and the chief part of Europe. By it nearly three-
quarters of the whole crop were destroyed. The most obvious cause of

* The names of potatoes are as various as their kinds. The old m'uUdff and
Spaniard varieties have been succeeded by blacknoses and bluenoses ; these in
their turn have been compelled to make room for the Boston blues, calicoes,
long leda and Icidiiejis, until the London ladies bore away the ptilni.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

2i3

le of food to all
pnance of cattle
r both upon old
of tlic wealthy :

produce of the
le stumps of his
he day of want,
ay he considered
for bread in the
uttings in drills
d is marked by
er, and the seed
3d in, or covered
the furrows, and
;he planter drops
rth : the plant is
ing, the potatoes
ven beneath the

to their growth,
'rior dryness and
400 bushels per
is occupied by
mdred bushels of

potatoes of their
re is little ground
Prince Edward's
p of the last year
:If over the whole
y it nearly three-
obvious cause of

The old mUUciff and
bluenoscs : these In
slon blues, calicoes,
c pulni.

the decay was the

was the excess of moisture in almost every kind of the vege-
table : careful drying was found to be the most effectual remedy.
Potatoes planted on dry and meagre soil in general escaped the malady,
while those of rich land vverc nearly all destroyed. The destmction of
so valuable a part of c-dinary food is a severe calamity, and one that
falls most heavily upon 'he poor, who have been thus deprived of a
substantial article of diet.

The ruta baga, or Swedish turnip, although seldom raised, except
for the table, will yield as well as it does in England. Small quantities
are grown in gardens ; but the abundance of potatoes has retarded the
cultivation of that valuable root, which, from its great yield, would be
highly advantageous in the fattening of cattle and sheep, and for the
support of stock during the winter. The Aberdeen, white stone, and
all the European varieties of the turnip, also thrive well. Neither
mangel-wurtzel, beets, nor carrots have been introduced into field-
culture ; yet those roots, onions, parsnejis, cabbages, cauliflower, cu-
cumbers,* melons, squashes, and all the common culinary vegetables of
the Old Country, are cultivated with success — and are good, provided
attention is paid to them. The same remarks Avill apply to peas and
beans in their several varieties-.

Hortioidture has been mtich neglected. In Nova Scotia, apples of
the best kinds and finest flavour are grown in great quantities, and the
ordinary price of the best cider is only eight shillings per barrel.
Quinces, pears, peaches, cherries, apricots, and other fruits, including
the Isabella grape, are also produced in the open air.-j- An idea has
prevailed that even the interior climate of New Brunswick is less
favourable for fruits than that of Nova Scotia ; but, from what I have
observed, I believe that fruit-trees will flourish and bear as well in one
Province as the other. Plums, currants, gooseberries, strawberries, and

• In 1840, the Author observed half an anre of cucumbers in a new clearing
ou the right bank of the Washadaniouk River. They were planted in hills
among the stiunps of trees, over which the vines had ascended, as well as over-
spread the groiuid. The cucumbers were picked when they were small, and
sold for pickles in the market of St. John.

t These fruits, with a numher of others indigenous between the Tropics,
are raised to great perfection by the Hon. C. Prescott, of Cornwallis, Nova
Scotin, who is the father of horticulture in the western part of that Province,

K 2

■il

-14^

244

NliW BRl'NSWICK.

other small fruits, are cultivated in New Brunswick ; and at Frederic-
ton, horticulture has received some attention of late.

Floriculture has also been cherished at the above place, and the
gardens of Colonel Shore, L. A, Wilmot, Esq., and Mr. Watt, have
proved the capabilities of the country aad climate in this delightful
branch of husbandry. Within a few years, the windows of the cottages
throughout the Province have become decorated with beautiful native
and exotic plants, and a better taste begins to prevail iu the style of the
farmers' gardens.

The wild fruits of the Province contribute, in no inconsiderable de-
gree, to the comfort of the new settler, who, with the aid of maple
sugar, renders them very palatable. Of these fruits the wild straw-
berries, which abound in June, are the most delicious. Cranberries,
gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, great whortleberries {Vaccinium
coryvibosum\ blue whortleberries {I'accinium fronclosum), wild cherries,
plums {Prunus Americana), grapes {Fitis borealis), and other indigen-
ous fruits, are all gathered at different seasons of the year. With these
are Labrador tea {Sedum latijoliurn) and chocolate root, Avith other
native plants, that yield by decoiiion wholesome and pleasant beverages.
Butternuts and hazelnuts are gathered at many places ; and beechnuts
are often so plentiful, that swine maintain themselves upon them in the
foresvs dirring the winter monUis ; but the pork fattened on these nuts
is sou nnii oily. 1'he fruits natural to the country, with the fish in the
streams, and partridges and other game in the woods, all aid the back-
woodsman, to whom a supply of provisions is of the first importance,
during the growing of his first crop.

Having given a sketch of the productions of the older cultivated
grounds, we may, before closing this chapter, notice the clearing of new
lands, and the first crops produced from the virgin soil. The system of
clearing in New Brunswick diflers a ilttle from that pursued in Canada.
A tract of ground having been selected, all the under-brush is first cut
away — this is most easily done when the ground is frozen — and it is de-
sirable also to remove such small trees as are suitable for making the
fences. The large trees are then felled and "junked up" (cut into logs)
from ten to fifteen feet in length, the limbs are lopped off, and •■Ik; closer
they lie to the ground, the better will they afterwards burn. Thf- trees

I at Frefleric"

lace, and the
r. Watt, have
his delightful
>i' the cottages
avitiful native
he stvie of the

nsiderahle de-
aid of maple
le wild straw-
CranbeiTies,
ies (^Vaccinium
wild cherries,
other indigen-
With these
ot, with other
sant beverages,
and beechnuts
)on them in the
I on these nuts
1 the fish in the
1 aid the back-
rst importance,

)ldcr cultivated
clearing of new
The system of
med in Canada,
rush is first cut
;n — and it is dc-
for making the
" (cut into logs)
ft", anil tlu; closer
urn. The trees

NEW BRUNSWICK.

'Ua

are sometimes felled in windrows (long heaps of fallen timbei}— «, piuii
which operates against the equal burning of the surface and tuo ciislri-
bution of the ashes.

The time for chopping varies. It is generally admitted that the
under-brush should be cut in the beginning of winter, and the large
trees in the ensuing spring, before the sap has ascended to the
branches. In August or September the chopping is fired, and much
labour is saved by obtaining a r/ood burn. Most frequently the fire
consumes all the brushwood and limbs, and nothing remains but the
charred logs and extinguished brands. In the autumn, these are rolled
together with handspikes, or drawn by oxen, into large piles, where
they are burned. This work is most frequently performed by a number
of settlers, who unite and assist each other in the laborious task.
Almost every n:an collects his neighbours, if he have any, and makes a
pilinff frolic. After the labour of the day is ended, and the company
have partaken of the refreshments prepared by the females, it is not
uncommon to hear the fiddle strike up, and the party engage in the
merry jig and reel. This system of mutual assistance is considered
beneficial ; it removes little jealousies in society, and cheers the heart
of the settler amidst his struggles to redeem the soil ; yet I have
observed, that men who plod on alone and single-handed are as suc-
cessful as those who adopt the other course. After the piling, the
heaps of wood are fired, generally in the evening, %, i\en the whole sur-
face is in a blase, and^he anxious settler remains v, all night to roll
the ignited logs together.

In Canada, the ashes are carefiilly collected while they are dry, and
safely stored in water-tight log-sheds until winter, when they are carried
to the potash manufactory and sold. There arc no asheries in New
Brunswick, and the vilkali is allowed to mix with the soil.

Choppings are sometimes made in the winter, and burned in the
spring : in such instances, ilie labour of "clearing off is greater, but
a crop is obtained in the same season. After all the timber has been
consumed, or drawn off to make the fences, the surface of the earth h
broken by a crotch-harrow, drawn by horses or mules. The harrow is
in the shape of the letter V, with a row of teeth in each side. The
wheat, or other grain, is then sown broadcast. About two bushels nf

24^

NKW BllUNS^VICK.

v/hoat are required for an acre. Some sow the grain upon the unbroken
surface. The harrow is again applied, and hacks are employed to cover
the grain around the stumps. The price of clearing an acre of land
ready for the harrow is from. £2 10s. to £4, currency, according to the
quality and growth of the timber upon it. The wheat sown as above
almost universally yields a good crop. At the time of harvest it is
stacked, unless the proprietor has erected a bam for its reception.
Two crops of wheat are seldom taken from the same piece of ground in
two successive seasons, although potatoes are sometimes planted on the
same field two a>id three 3'ears following.

With the wheat, timothy and clover seed are sown ; the first crop is
therefore succeeded hy grass for hay, the value of which is much in-
creased by the demands of the lumber parties, who frequently pay as
high as £5 per ton for the fodder of their oxen. The ordinary price of
wheat is 7s. fid, per bushel.

Bes!i<le3 potatoes, these new lands produce turnips, cabbages, and all
kinds of vegetables, and also the leguminous plants, without the aid of
manure. Ovt-r and above paying the expense of clearing the land, the
cost of seed, the labour of sowing and harvesting, the first crop yields
a profit. Many settlers and squatters, therefore, prefer clearing a new
piece every year, to the cuHivation of tracts from which the timber has
been already removed. In consequence of this propensity to level the
ibrest, large fields are seen in every quarter overrun by raspberry
bu,shes, sprouts, and a young growth of trees, the land having been
abandoned as soon as the first crop was secured. These results are
also favoured by the cheapness and abimdance of land, and, all taken
together, have produced a very remarkable class of persons called
squatters.

These men will remove their families into the deep recesses of the
forest, where, to use their own phrase, they " knock up a shanty,' and
commence chopping. They are all ey;^^crt hunters, and at fishing quite
au fait. Their stock consists of a cow and a pig. Tiie former, during
the summer, finds her own living, and wears a large bell upon her neck,
10 inform the dairymaid of whereabouts in the wilderness she is feeding.
When the little stock of provisions is nearly exhausted, deer, partridges,
or salmon and trout, arc quickly supplied. Maple sugar \% exchanged

NEW BRUNSWICK.

247

lor Hour, which is somctinios drawn over the snow on toboggans* to
great distances. The squatter is also a trapper, and, during the winter,
collects a quantity of fur. The crop raised by one of these men and
family in a season will more than supply them with food for a year ;
and their clothing is purchased with the proceeds of the furs, maple
sugar, brooms, axe-handles, and other articles of their own manufac-
ture. If the owner of the land appear to meddle with his affairs, the
squatter looks upon him with cool indifference, or leaves his residence
to repeat the same operation in another quarter. The Government
seldom interferes with these men when they fix their abodes on Crown
lands ; and if their clearings are taken up by persons who obtain
grants, an allowance is made to them for improvements. Their num-
ber in the Province is about 1600, exclusive of persons who have made
partial payments for their lands.

Viewed under any light, the squatter is a useful man : he is the true
pioneer of the forest — the advanced guard of the agricultural army ; and
often, from his knowledge of the country, skill, and kindness, he proves
to be the benefactor of the disheartened immigrant. We stop not here
to inquire into the lawfulness of his pursuits, knowing that they have
resulted from the humanity of the Government, and that they will be
given up to steady industry when the country shall be widely in-
habited.

In seven or eight years, according to the nature of the timber, the
stumps are sufficiently rotten to be removed, when they are collected
and burnt upon the ground. The surface of the land is frequently verj'
mieven, from the presence of cradle hills,-j- which should be ploughed
lengthwise rather than across. The soil in the hollows is very rich, and
care should be taken in the ploughing to keep it on the surface as much
as possible. By felling a certain niuuber of acres every year, the settler
obtains a crop from the burnt ground, while the landw ixvviously cleared
allbrd pasture and hay until the stumps are decayed, when the plough
may be put in operation. It is remarkable that the trees of the k>re»t,
whenever they are destroyed by fire, or ekared away by tht agricul-

* Hand sleds, with broad flat runners, which do not sink into the snow.
t These are small eminences produced by the roots of the trees ajid frost.

!! ■>

248

NEW lillUNSWlCK,

turist, and the land afterwards neglected, of whatever kinds they are,
do not spring up again ; but a new growth of other trees succeeds
them. The land, cleared of its lofty pines and spruces, is soon covered
by the white poplar, maple, hackmatack, fir, wild cherry, cedar, and
blue whortleberries. Sugar maple, beech, and birch, are frequently
succeeded by red pine, red and white spruce, sumach, raspberry, and
gooseberry bushes. Hemlock land is soon overspread by cedar or
alder. The original kind of trees do not appear in the second growth ;
but after the second growth is removed, they again occui)y the ground.
This rotation of crops seems to be a la^k' of nature, from which the
farmer may derive a valuable hint.

The surface of the earth in its natural state is covered by decayed
leaves and seeds ; but so long as the earth is shaded by the luxuriant
foliage of the forest, those seeds cannot vegetate. The fire destroys the
seeds that lie on the sunace, or such as have fallen from the pre-existing
trees ; and therefore, after the grove is removed, it might be expected
that the soil would be incapable of bringing forth any vegetables, except
such as were sown upon it by the farmer. But the seeds of plants are
deeply buried in the soils of North America ; these cannot grow until
heat and light are let down upon the earth. No sooner, therefore, is
the forest taken away and its reproductive powers destroyed by fire,
than the deeply-buried seeds begin to germinate and to cover the earth
with a new and different crop. To many it has been matter of surprise,
that when a clearing is made in the most remote parts of the wilder-
ness, and where nothing is to be seen but lofty trees, the wild berries
spring up, and not unfrequently the Canada thistle, sorrel, and other
noxious weeds. As bears, foxes, and other animals feed upon wild
berries, it is not surprising that their seeds should be widely dissemi-
nated. The seeds of the thistle have wings, and are driven along by the
winds ; and thus the distribution of seeds may be accounted for. Hawks,
and other birds, which do not destroy the germs of seeds by digestion,
also carry them from one place to another. The feathered tribes have
been chiefly instrumental in establishing vegetation upon the newly-
formed coral reefs of the Pacific Ocean, and in transplanting many
UScfLd seeds and berries over the great North American Continent.

Several writers on Canada have laid much stress on the discovery of

NEW BRUNSWICK.

2VJ

kinds they are,
trees succeeds

is soon covered

rry, cedar, and
are frequently
raspberry, and

d by cedar or

second growth ;

py the ground.

rom which the

red by decayed
y the luxuriant
ire destroys the
the pre-existing
^lit be expected
j;etables, except
Is of plants are
nnot grow until
;r, therefore, is
stroyed by fire,
cover the earth
tter of surprise,
of the wijder-
;lie wild berries
nrrel, and other
feed upon wild
widely dissemi-
en along by the
edfor. Hawks,
Is by digestion,
red tribes have
lon the newly-
planting many
Continent.
be discovery of

the quality of the soil by the kind of timber growing upon it. It is
evident that certain trees are, in some degree, confined to particular
districts ; but this not only depends upon the nature of the soil, but
also upon its dryness or moisture. It should also be remembered, that
a growth of one kind of wood, when it has been cut down, or destroyed
by fire, is generally succeeded by another of a different kind ; and,
therefore, in judging of the quality of the soil by the timber standing
upon it, it is necessary to consider whether the trees are of the primary,
or second crop.

In general, the hard woods, which drop their leaves in autumn, such
as the sxigar maple, Ixceh, birch, butternut, &,o., grow upon dry or
well-drained land, and the evergreens upon the more moist grounds.
It is a eonnnon opinion, that the hard woods occupy the best land ; but
I have observed that beech frequently covers beds of dry and meagre
gravel. Oak is found on a dry, rich loam, and also in soil of a light,
sandy description. The intervales afford the favourite sites of the elm
and ash. Of the soft woods, pine not only flourishes on a rich bottom,
but also in yellow sand, and frequently among boulders of granite.
Tracts bearing larch, or hackmatack and hemlock, have been con-
demned, until experience has proved them fertile : the former usually
grows on flat, sandy soil, underlaid by clay and marl, and Mhich is
often capable of being made very fertile.

A mixture of clay and yellow birch is an indication of strong land,
and such as is favourable for grass. Butternut and basswood prefer
calcareous soils, and such as are esteemed for the cultivation of wheat.

Although it has been denied by some that any indication can be de-
rived from the quality of tlie timber, yet it is certain that by careful
observation, much information * f the nature of the soil m.ay be obtained
by this kind of inquiry ; but persons who have little experience in such
matters, and who desire to purchase, will do well to examine the soil
and subsoil by opening them at a number of places, and not trust too
much to the appearance of the timber.

To the immigrant, the vast forest presents at first a gloomy spec-
tacle. When he enters upon his ground, he finds not a spot where
food can be raised, and the entire surface of the earth is covered by
innumerable trees, that have stood for ages, and still sofin to bid

ii50

NEW HRUNSW1CK.

! Tt"

l'((

1' "■:'-

I i;

'I iv

defiance even to arniirs of axemen. The axe must be applied to every
tree ; lor every attempt to root them out, except by cutting, and their
subsequent decay, has proved abortive. The trunk is cut from two to
tlircc feet above the ground — the tree staggers, and falls with a hiid
crash. The axeman watches the direction ^.aken by the falling wood,
calling to his companions, if he have any, to " stand by." Here " man
appears to contend against the trees of the forest as though they were
his most obnoxious enemies; for he spares neither the young sapling
in its greenness, nor tlic ancient trunk in its lofty pride — he wages war
against the forest with fire and steel."

To the visitor who has been accustomed to view cle;ui parks and
groups of ornamental trees, the clcaretl part of the country appears
naked, as few trees are spared on account of their beauty. The reason
of this is, that such as grow in forests are too tall and slender for orna-
mental purposes, and when allowed to stand away from the shelter
afforded by the grove, they are blown down, or they are destroyed by
the heat of the fire at the time of burning. Yet, in M-ry many in-
stances, clumps of trees might have been permitted to stand, on account
of the value of their Limber, shelter, or as being ornamental.

From the great extent of water communication in the Province, much
of the con.mon timber on the wild lands is valuable, as it may be
readily transported and sold for fuel. The St. John and other rivers
arc navigated by n\imbers of wood-boats, which supply the towns with
great quantities of cheap wood. The bark of the hemlock tree, exten-
sively employed in tanning, is also an object of some importance.

The erection of a saw and grist mill in a new settlement is always
looked forward to with much anxiety, an<l the inhabitants frequently
bestow their labour gratuitously for the construction of the necessary
dams. The best pine and spruce are made into shingles, or sawed into
boards to cover their liouses.

It is interesting to observe the rising of a settlement, and the ad-
vancement of cultivation in the wilderness. At first, perhaps, a soli-
tary settler builds his shanty, amidst the stumps, and frequently by
the side of a rivulet. The walls of his dwelling are large logs piled
upon each other, and dovetailed at the corners, with a square hole cut
through for a door, and another for a window : the cracks are stopped

iipplicd to every
utting, and their
cut from two to
[ills with a l(<iid
ho falling wood,
Here " man
lough they were
e young sapling
— he wages war

>leaii parks and
country appears
ty. The reason
lender for orna-
oni the shelter
re destroyed by
I very many in-
;and, on account
ntal.

Province, much
, as it may be
nd other rivers
the towns with
)ck tree, exten-
iportancc.
mcnt is always
ants frequently
' the necessary
3, or sawed into

t, and the ad-
)erhapH, a soli-
frequently by
arge logs piled
quare hole cut
ks are stopped

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33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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" ■ ■"■-■■■'■■■

NEW BRUNSWICK.

251

with moss. This fabric is covered with the bark of the fir, secured by
long poles and withs. Upon the corner of the house hangs a scythe ;
and axes, iron wedges, &c. are seen sticking in the logs. The grind-
stone frame is secured to a stump. A hovel is also built for the cow,
and a sty for the pig. A few dunghill fowls and geese are also pro-
vided with shelter.

The dwelling-house is sometimes built in better style than has been
described. The logs are hewed and carefully jointed, and a substan-
tial roof is covered with shingles ; it also contains several apartments ;
and when the exterior is whitewashed, it has a very pretty appearance.
In such a dwelling, occupied by a Colonel of Militia, I once dined
most sumptuously, and spent several pleasant hours.

As season succeeds season, so the clearing is enlarged, until the
plough is put in motion, and field after field is seen bearing a crop.
In the mean time, other adventurers have taken up the surrounding
lands, and a wide gap is made in the forest. A log schtjolhouse, with a
cob chimney,* has been built, and well filled with childie". • a saw-mill
and a grist-mill have been erected. The first log-house is now con-
verted into a pig-sty, its proprietor having removed to a neat framed
cottage, covered with clapboards and shingles, and perhaps painted
red — a very favourite colour for houses in the country. The log school-
house has been succeeded by a more spacious and comfortable building.
The roads have been levelled, and a country trader has opened a little
shop. The old toboggan has been laid aside, and sleighs or waggons
dash along the streets. A house of worship has been erected, and a
Missionary is called for. The sound of the post-boy's horn is heard in
the village. Finally, the medical man makes his debut, in the almost
forlorn hope of winning a livelihood by a little farming and a little
practice.

The time in which all these operations are perfoi ned is compara-
tively short, and the changes they produce in the features of the coun-
try seem like the work of magic rather than of ordinary industry. Nor

ih'i

• The tops of the chimneys in the log cabins are built of sticks, forming a
sort of framework, which is thickly covered with clay mortar. These are called
cob chimneys.

ri52

NEW imUNSWICK.

iiri

iisii

I .n:

are the comforts enjoyed by the inhabitants less than the appearance ol'
their lands would indicate. Thousands of those who carried their first
supplies into the woods upon their shoulders, now enjoy all the com-
forts and many of the luxuries of life. Even the once most destitute
emigrant, who upon his arrival in the country was unacquainted with
its peculiar mode of industry, has gained an honest independence, and
many of such have lived to see their children established around them
upon valuable farms. By such operations, the forests are levelled,
and their solitudes are cheered by the light of day ; the swamps and
bogs are redeemed to the plougli, the scythe and the sickle, and hill
and valley resound with human labour and happiness, — until the land
is filled with villages, towns and cities ; turnpikes, canals and railways
succeed, and transmit the rewards of labour for the support of com-
merce — the command to " increase and multiply" is obeyed, and many
of the objects for which man was placed upon the earth are fulfilled.

Wheat and oats are seldom sown in New Brunswick before the 10th
of May, and the sowing is continued on the north coast to the 15th of
June. Barley will ripen if sown as late as the 20th of June. Potatoes
are planted from the 1st May to the 15th June ; and in the new settle-
ments, the planting is continued to the 1st of July; but the late
potatoes do not always ripen before their tops are destroyed by the
frost.

Gardening commences early in May, and turnips are planted through
June to the middle of July.

Hay-making commences in the latter part of July, when the weather
is generally dry. The hay of the large intervales and marshes is dried
and stacked upon the ground, being afterwai 1j carried to the barns on
sleds in the winter. The upland hay is goiicrally put away under
cover. The harvest of wheat, rye, and oats commences about the 10th
of September ; and the grain of the old farms is secured in barns.
The reaping is frequently performed by a scythe, attached to a light
frame called a cradle, which is quite unknown in England. Potatoes
are left in the ground until the middle of October, when they are dug
and carted to the cellars. Parsneps are most delicious when they are
permitted to remain in the ground all winter.

Cows, horses, fat and working cattle, are stabled in November :

NEW JmUNSWIOK.

o^,'

!ie appearance of
larried their first
joy all the com-
;e most destitute
lacquainted with
ependence, and
i(;d around them
its are levelled,
he swamps and
sickle, and hill
—until the land
als and railwavs
support of corn-
eyed, and many
are fulfilled,
before the 10 th
t to the 15 th of
une. Potatoes
the new settle-
; but the late
->stroyed by the

jlanted through

len the weather
narshes :s dried
to the barns on
ut away under
about the 10th
ured in barns.
:hcd to a light
md. Potatoes
n they are dug
when they are

n November :

voung stock remain in the fields until December, when all the animals
arc collected and housed, except sheep, which pass the winter better in
the open air, being protected from the cold winds and snow-drift by
thickets, or brushwood, placed against the fences of the barn-yard.

The cattle are of a mixed breed, and in general much smaller than
those in England. The common ox weighs about 700 lbs., yet there
are a few which sometimes weigh 1,000 lbs. Usually, the beef is
good. Almost all the oxen have been worked before they are fatted
for market. Now, labour increases the strength and elasticity of mus-
cular fibre ; it is therefore not surprising that the beef of such oxen
should be less tender than that of the English ox, which is seldom
hampered by the yoke, and grazes in rich pastures, or feeds upon tur-
nips. The cattle pastured along the banks of the rivers arc good
swimmers, and, from the bad state of the fences, are apt to become
breech y.

Excepting instances where stock has been imported from England
and mixed with the breeds of the country, the ordinary run of cows is
small ; still, they are far from being bad milkers.

The horses are a mixed race from the old Normandy or Canadian
breed. The original stock were introduced into the country by the
AcadJfin French, who still retain them. In general they are small,
but capable of great endurance, and a lasting spirit during the most
protracted journeys. From the introduction of horses from Great
Britain and the Unitec. States, improvements have certainly been made
in the size and appea* ^nce of that valuable animal. It is true that
occasionally a handsome and swift horse appears in the market; yet the
whole race, when taken together, cannot be compared with the horses
of Europe, and a good number of them are unsound in wind and limb.
The great number of horses required for drawing timber, and for other
])urposes, has led many farmers to increase their stock ; and it is com-
mon to see a number of horses, of all ages, and in the most unsightly
state, around the farm-yards during the winter. In country places,
every man must have a horse, old or young, sound or unsound. Pe-
destrianism is in disrepute. Horses and dogs seem to be the favourite
animals of the Colonial farmer.

The breed of shcc^p has been much improved by the agricultural

4 !

254

NEW BRUNSWICK.

t ■; !

il I

Societies and individuals. Formerly they were small, and the wool
was not of the finest quality. The mutton of the present stock is
usually fat and tender.

Swine thrive well ; but, until of late, little pains have been taken to
procure the most profitable kinds. A great proportion of the hogs
have long ears, legs, and snouts ; and during the summer months,
they are very lean and mischievous. From their thin and gaunt ap-
pearance, they have been called shad, and their squealing propensities
are almost iiv;upportable. The general introduction of Berkshircs
would be a boon to the country. Poultry is raised by all classes of
the inhabitants ; and the markets are frequently filled with the finest
description of domestic fowls — also partridges, wild ducks, and other
game.

With the general advancement of agriculture, there has been an im-
provement in the implements of husbandry. The importation of a few
ploughs, drilling and winnowing machines, from England and Scotland,
has afforded models, and the ingenuity of mechanics has been exercised
to advi-xntage in the construction of those instruments. Axes, hay-forks,
rakes, measures, &c., are imported from the United States, notwith-
standing they could be as cheaply manufactured in the Province as
elsewhere.

The inhabitants of a number of districts derive considerable advan-
tage from the manufacture of maple sugar. This is obtained from the
sap of the hard, or rock maple {Jeer saccharimm). In the spring of the
year, generally in March, when the frost is leaving the ground, and
especially at that period when it freezes at night and thaws during the
day, an incision is made in the tree — or, what is better, a hole is bored
with an augei, and the sap contained abundantly in the trunk is carried
off by a small spout into troughs of fir, or vessels made of birch bark :
at evening, it is collected and evaporated in pots or boilers, and stirred
off into sugar. In one of the best sugaries, eight hundred trees are
tapped, and a ton of sugar is produced annually. It is cast in moulds
of bark, and the cakes weigh from ten to twenty pounds. Besides a
wholesome sugar, a delicious syrup is made, which is usually eaten with
pancakes ; and at the close of the season, the sap, by fermentation, pro-
duces good vinegar. It is to be regretted that so many groves of sugar

■iiS

''>-,.:■!''-

NEW BRUNSWICK.

255

lall, and the wool
e present stock is

lave been taken to
)rtion of the hogs

summer months,
lin and gaunt aji-
eeling propensities
ion of Berkshircs

by all classes of
ed with the finest
ducks, and other

re has been an ini-
iportation of a few
land and Scotland,
has been exercised
. Axes, hay-forks,
d States, notwith-
a the Province as

onsiderable advan-
obtained from the
n the spring of the
ig the ground, and
i thaws during the
3r, a hole is bored
le trunk is carried
de of birch bark :
oilers, and stirred
hundred trees are
is cast in moulds
unds. Besides a
sually eaten with
ermentation, pro-
7 groves of sugar

maple have been felled. The tree is very valuable for its saccliarine
properties, and the sap may be extracted from it without any injury to
its growth. In parts of the United States, the inhabitants have begun
to plant the maple in orchards, for no other object than its sugar ; and
almost every settler who has felled those trees in New Brunswick has
since been sorry for the act. The sap of the grey birch yields a sub-
stance resembling manna.*

The science of agriculture is still in its infancy in New Brunswick.
The system of clearing land is in itself very simple, and, from the suc-
cess of the old and established method, few attempts are made to
improve it. In the older cultivated districts the modern improvements
of tillage might be readily introduced ; but, even here, the first princi-
ples of the art are not generally understood. Until very lately, few
farmers have had any idea of the rotation of crops. The same kinds of
grain or potatoes have been raised from the ground several years in
succession, until the soil has become exhausted ; and numerous fields
have been abandoned, and will remain useless, until by long repose the
soil shall be restored to fertility.

Formerly, in the new settlements, heaps of stable manure and rotten
straw were allowed to remain from year to year, the owners sup-
posing that the expense of spreading them on the soil would not be
repaid in the crop ; and instances have occurred where barns have been
removed from site to site to avoid the accumulating nuisance of the
stable. In other instances, the manure has been thrown into rivers, or
disposed of in pits and swamps : even at the present time little pains are
taken to prevent it from being washed away by the rains, and the ap-
plication of liquid manure is almost unknown. It is a common practice
to lay the best stable dung in small heaps upon the soil in the autumn ;
during the long winter it is exposed to alternate freezing and thawing,
and ere the spring arrives, and it is spread and ploughed in, its volatile
and fertilising matter has chiefly disappeared. But, however absurd
such practices may appear to the British farmer, they are scarcely less
unwise than many followed by respectable immigrants, who refuse to
adopt a somewhat rude and hurried plan of cultivation, and too fre-

* Pic-nic parties frequently visit the siigaries, where they are treated to a
kind of candy called "long-lick."

:'^ r

'■

:■ .'

SoC.

'H ^^ liii;

!'('

I ■

li|*'

i '

NKVV nRUNSWICK.

qucntly devote their labour and iiiouoy to trifliiifj objects, overlooking
the " main chance," so called by the experienced and chary American
villager. With these remarks, it is proper to add, that a zeal for im-
provement begins to appear in the more intelligent inhabitants. Hus-
bandry is getting rid of the odium that was formerly cast upon it, and
persons of the first respectability have engaged in the occupation. Agri-
cultural Societies are also doing good ; but their usefulness woidd be
greatly increased by the more generous support of the Legislature, and
the establishment of a few v.ell-conducted experimental farms would be
found highly beneficial in forming a basis for the future industry of
the country.

With a correct view of the climate and soil of New Brunswick, it
might be su])poscd that she is capable at least of supplying her in-
habitants with food : so far, however, from being able to meet her own
wants, the provisions annually imported from Great Britain, the United
States, Canada, and Nova Scotia, amount to a sum that far exceeds
the yearly revenue of the Province. This great deficiency in the
supply of the necessaries of life arises from the timber trade, which
sends a large part of the population away from the fields into the
forests, and the low state of agriculture, now managed with a lack of
its most necessary elements, skill and labour.

Before closing the present chapter, we may be permitted to take
some notice of hunting, trapping, and fishing, — not because they form
common branches of Provincial industry, but from their relation to the
natural resources of the country. Mr. Murray observes, that among
the expectations which lure the British settler to America, one of the
most attractive appears to be the almost unlimited scope for hunting in
a country of wild woodland, where no game-laws embarrass the sports-
man, and where he may expect to derive an agreeable addition to his
supply of food. But the farmers of New Brunswick well know that
the chasing of wild animals through the woods is incompatible with
ease, and in general very unprofitable. Hunting is therefore confined
to a few individuals in the new settlements, and more especially the
Indians, who cherish the pursuits of their ancestors, and follow the
chase, by which their pressing w.ints are sometimes relieved.

NEW lUlbiNSWlCK.

257

!cts, overlooking
chary American
it a zeal for im-
labitants. llus-
last upon it, and
cupation. Agri-
ulness ■would be
Legislature, and
1 farms would be
uture industry of

w Brunswick, it
ipplying her in-
to meet her own
itain, the United
that far exceeds
leficiency in the
)er trade, which
! fields into the
ed with a lack of

ermitted to take
scause they form
ir relation to the
ves, that among
erica, one of the
pe for hunting in
irrass the sports-
e addition to his
. well know that
[icompatible with
lerefore confined
re especially the
, and follow the
it'vc'd.

It has often been imagined by the emigrant, that deer and other wild
animals are so plentiful in America, that the bunter has only to walk
into the forest, where he can get a view of them as he would of the
animals in a menagerie. But although there is still much game in the
wild forests and among?, the mountains, it is seldom obtained without
labour and perseverance, and, excepting the bear, all animals are very
shy and timid.

The elk, or moose deer, the mammoth of the Northern Continent,
offers the greatest inducement to hunting, the flesh of the animal being
as valuable for food as beef. In the winter, when the earth is covered
by a white mantle, a drove of these animals forms what is called a
•' yard," — which is merely a small tract of ground over which they
feed, and beat dowti the snow with their feet in gathering the herbage.
In such a yard they will remain all winter, if not disturbed. Their
weight prevents them from travelling through very deep snow ; and
when it is covered by a crust of ice, escape from the pursuer is imprac-
ticable. The hunter, with mOccassins and snow-shoes, having disco-
vered the haunt, enters it and shoots down the harmless herd. If any
attempt to escape, they arc soon exhausted in the deep snow, and,
being followed, arc cut down by the tomahawk o." axe. As the yards
of the moose are only found at places remote from the settlements,
much of their flesh has been left in the forests. In the early settlement
of the country, the Indians, being jealous of the white inhabitants,
hoped to drive them away by destroying the game- Nor were the first
settlers careful to preserve those valuable animals: thousands were
killed for their skins alone, and it is painful to r fleet upon the wanton
waste of life that once sported over the soil.

In this kind of hunting there is no amusement : it is rather a savage
kind of butchery, from which a true sportsman would turn away in
disgust. In light snows, when the moose can travel, the hunter fol-
lows the track, in the most noiseless manner, until he overtakes his
game. The Indians are remarkably subtle on a moose-waUc. The
animal does not always bound away when he discovers his pursuer, but
turns round, and elevates his lofty antlers, apparently pleased with the
fatal novelty. They have been known to stand a few moments after

l«

I '

:. . ■■

258

NEW miUNSWlCK.

tlif first shot was fired; but, if unhurt, tlicy Hchloni wait for the sccoikI
jlischarj^e of the gun.

In this kind of forest sport, the hunter carries a gnn, axe, blanktt,
a wallet of provisions, and fireworks. At night, he kindles a fire,
makes a bed of spruce or cedar boughs, rolls i^imself in his blanket,
and lies down in repose : but in the morning he is likely to find him-
self almost in a perpendicular position ; the fire having melted away
the snow at his feet, allows them to fall, while the head remains ele-
vated. As soon as the dawn appears, he wends his way over hill and
valley on the well-known track of his game, ever excited by hope and
continued qui vive. And certainly all his toil and privation arc re-
warded by a view of the long-looked-for moose in his stately pride and
majesty. At the foot of some great tree, or behind a root or windfall,
he watches with steady eye his unsuspicious prey, and creeps upon him
with the slyness of a serpent ; and, when within range, even the
" oldest hands" tremble, and the bosom flutters, as the gun is levelled.
If the hunter be a '• green one," the moose generally escapes unhurt ;
but the bullet of the experienced marksman brings him to the ground.

The moose is not a fleet animal, and when alarmed, runs with a
shambling gait, striking his hoofs against each other, and frequently
stumbling. "When hotly pursued by dogs, he will often turn and take
them up on the points of his horns and toss them into the air. In the
latter part of September and first of October (the running season), they
are decoyed by the Indians, who having placed themselves in ambush,
employ a rude instrument known as the moose-call, by which they
imitate the peculiar looing of the animal, that approaches the decoy
without fear, and is shot. They are also sometimes ensnared by a
noose in the end of a strong rope.

The ordinary moose weighs about 1000 lbs., and largest ones
1,500 lbs. The moufle or loose muscular covering of the nose is
considered by epicures a great dainty.

The reindeer, or carriboo, is a smaller animal, the largest weighing
400 lbs. They are very swift ; but when there is a deep snow covered
by a crust, they are soon overtaken by men and dogs. And they arc
frequently caught alive ; but, from the difficulty of leading them out of

': ,

lit for tlic sccoinl

11, axe, blankit,
D kindles a fire,
f in his blanket,
<ely to find hiin-
ing melted away
ead remains elc-
way over hill and
:ited by hope and
privation are re-
stately pride and
', root or windfall,
creeps upon him
range, even the
e gun is levelled.
r escapes unhurt ;
nti to the ground,
ned, runs with a
jr, and frequently
ten turn and take
3 the air. In the
ling season), they
ielves in ambush,
, by which they
oaches the decoy
es ensnared by a

md largest ones
I of the nose is

largest weighing
eep snow covered
s. And they are
iding them out of

NRW inU'NSNVICi;.

the thickets, the hunter usually kills tliem on the spot. 'I'he carriboo
herds in the beginning of winter, and browses upon mosses and ever-
greens. They arc numerous, and their flesh, which is far less palatable
than moose venison, is sold in the principal markets during the cold
season.

In different parts of the Province, there arc extensive peat-bogs,
chiefly covered by moss, bayberry and laurel, and commonly called
Carriboo bogs, or Carriboo plains. Upon these wild prairies, droves
of carriboo are sometimes seen from ten to thirty in number. They
are admirable sites for deer-stalking — an art seldom practised except
by the Indians.

There is vet another animal of the deer kind, smaller than the carri-
boo, and seldom exceeding 100 lbs. in weight. It is a very beautiful
and swift creature, of an iron-rust colour on the back and sides. It
dilFyrs from almost every other variety of the Cervus tribe, in having
a tail a foot in length. The ears are also long, and stand erect by the
sides of a pair of small horny. The animal is called by the inliabitants,
the red deer; but in reality it is the Virginian deer (^Ce^vus Vircjihianus).
Its flesh is not highly esteemed ; yet, the dried venison is very good.

The Virginian deer was not seen in New Brunswick prior to 1818 ;
and it is evident that they have been driven into the Province from the
south-west by droves of wolves. In remote and isolated clearings, at
twilight, deer frequently enter the fields, and graze and gambol with
young domestic cattle.

The skins of the moose, carriboo, and deer are valuable, and they
are frequently employed for covering sleighs.

Foxes are sometimes hunted by a single hound or beagle, which
often pursues reynard for several days. The fox seldom runs far away,
bi)»- performs a wide circuit in the forest. The hunter conceals himself
on the line of his circle, and fires upon him as he passes ; and if he
take the ground, he is dug out. The state of the country will not
allow hunting with a pack.

Beaver have become very scarce, being only taken by the Indians,
at the sources of the Tobique River, and on the branches of the
Rcstigouche.

Notwithstanding the bounties offered by the Legislature for their

s 2

I'#!

f*'

200

Nl;W imUNSWK.'K.

r| ■

•Icstruction, hears nrc rather numerous. They nro hunted occasionally
by men and doj^s, hut most freciuently they are cnuf^ht in fall-traps
made of wood. They arc not ferocious, except when their euhs are in
danger, or they have been wounded.*

Among the carnivorous animals of the Province, wolves nio the most
destructive, and they are yearly growing more numerous and troiihh--
sonte. It is now not \musual to hear of n whole flock of sheep being
destroyed by these nocturnal depredators ; they arc not much hunted,
and hut seldom is a wolf killed.

The lynx, or wild cat, aflbrds some sport ; and when any number of
them assemble together, they are very formidable. As soon as a cat is
discovered, if a good dog bo put on the track or scent, the animal will
"/rge" immediately : he generally selects the loftiest spruce, and climbs
to the very summit. I have killed several in such situations, and one
of them, a large male, after he had been pierced by a ball from my rifle,
and fallen through the limbs upwards of seventy feet, beat off two
powerful dogs and nearly killed a fine spaniel : he was finally despatched
by another shot. On another occasion, I shot a very large lynx, and
supposing that the animal was dead, hung him up to a tree by the hind
legs, until I should return and e.nrry him off: in a short time the cat
revived, and began scratching the tree with his fore paws. A true
Hibernian, who had very recently arrived in the country, chanced to
pass the new road where the creature hung, and supposing it to be the
great Evil Spirit, fled into the woods : being missed in the evening, a
search was set on foot, and the lad was found again ; but the poor

* In 1812, Ponlcis, an old deaf-and-dumb Indian, had killed n deer among
the Nercpia Hills, but being unable to carry the whole of the flesh away at once,
a part of it was left, and for which the Indian returned on the following day,
when he found that a bear had eaten up a part of the venison. The old man, in
returning to his wigwam with the remainder of the deer on his back, suddenly
felt a heavy paw upon his shoulder ; he immediately turned round and raised
his tomahawk: the bear and the Indian stood face to face some time, until the
former sullenly retired, but afterwards followed him to some distance. Poulcis
and Nuel Gable, an expert hunter, immediately set a trap for bruin, and he
was caught and brought to the Writer. He was very old, much scarred, and
•weighed 100 lbs.

cd occasionally
it ill fall-traps
icir cubs aro in

■es a I ■ tlic most

lis and troiiblc-

of sliot'i) I'ci"!^

)t niuoh hunted,

any number of
soon as a cat is

the animal will

nice, and climbs

ations, and one

11 from my rifle,

?t, beat ofT two

lally despatched

arge lynx, and

tree by the hind

lort time the cat

paws. A true

iitry, chanced to

>sing it to be the

1 the evening, a

1 ; but the poor

lied a deer among
flesh away at once,
the following day,
. The old man, in
lis back, suddenly

round and raised
ime time, until the

distance. Poulcis
for bruin, and he
lucli scarred, and

NKW HRUNSVVICK.

QUI

fellow always maintained that he saw a s(]iiirrel as largo us a horse
trying to go up a tree tail foremost.

The Fetis

>lor,

ithi

conco(oi\ panther, iiaintcr, or catamount — better known in
the Province as the Indian Devil — alth(jugh a small, is a very dangerous
animal : they are very rare, yet sumutinies u suigle skin iti brought into
the market.

Hares are plentiful ; and they are frequently shot, or taken in
snares.

Among the birds, the wild geese ailord some profitable sporting. In
the month of April they arrive in large flocks, and light in the open
jiarts of the rivers. They are very numerous on the coast of the Bay
Chaleurs. In the night-time, and during the April snow-storm,
canoes are sometimes paddled among them, when the birds are killed
by clubs. In line weather they are very shy, and as soon as the sports-
man approaches them, the sentinel, an old gander, sounds the well-
known caa-hoouk, and away they fly ; they are sometimes killed, and
the largest weigh from twelve to fifteen pounds each.

The numerous rivers and lakes aflbrd some fine duck-shooting, and
in certain seasons pigeons arc numerous. To the new settler, none
of the feathered tribes is of more value than the common partridge, as
it is called, although the bird is the ruffled grouse {Tetrno umbellua):
another variety, which resembles the quail, is called the spruce partridge
{Tetrao Canadensis) ; it is less palatable, and sometimes rendered uii-
v.'holesome by feeding upon laurel leaves. Both kinds are exceedingly
tame, and the latter may be caught in a noose suspended at the end of a
long pole. A covey of the rufiied grouse, or birch partridges, in situa-
tions where they have not been disturbed, will remain on a tree until each
individual is shot : the birds on the lower limbs should be shot first, as
the falling of the upper ones will disturb those situated beneath them.
Snipe and woodcock afford some fine shooting in their season : the
former are very numerous on the intervales and borders of the great
marshes ; the latter frequent ?lose covers of grey birch, cedar, larch,
■' - alder. The Esquimaux curlew are as large as English partridges,
but not numerous. Plover are sometimes plentiful in September.
Cock and snipe shooting are not much practised, except in the neigh-
bourhood of St. John and Fredericton. In the interior the snipes are

r-'^T

lilll'f'

'U I

2()2

MEW BRUNSWICK.

frequently called " mudsuckers." Gulls and other sea-birds are killed
on the shores for their feathers.

Notwithstanding game is in some degree plentiful, farmers and set-
tlers on new land are seldom seen sporting. When they sport at all,
they shoot for the pot, and not for amusement.

A considerable number of wild animals are taken annually for their
furs, by the Indians and a few trappers. The bear is readily taken in
a large wooden cage, across the door of which a heavy piece of timber
is fixed, with a trigger. Bait is placed in the cage. These traps are
dangerous to dogs and other domestic animals, and men have been
severely injured by them.

" A trapper went trit to catch a bear, where
The trapper was caught, and not the bear, there."

Moose, carriboo, and the Virginian deer are sometimes ensnared ; foxes
are cauglit in steel traps ; martins, ermines, and minks are taken in
" de d falls :" muskrats, or musquashes, which are very plentiful, are
generally shot.

There are ample materials for another pursuit — namely, lake and
river fishing. The old Indian system of taking salmon is still pursued
by the natives, and has been adopted by the whites. To take this
valuable and delicious fish, a canoe is launched into the stream, in the
darkest hours of the night, having a luminous torch of birch-bark or
pine-knots burning over the prow. The fisherman stands in the stern
of his bark, or " log," with a long pole, on one end of which is a speai*,
and with the other end he " poles" the canoe in the required direction.
The light afforded by the torch enables him to see the salmon dis-
tinctly, which he strikes and secures with great dexterity. Besides
what are taken in nets, great numbers of salmon are killed annually
by the spear.*

• During the exploration of the Tohique River by the Writer in August 1842,
his son and an Indian loaded a canoe with salmon andwhitefish in a few hours,
and it was with difficulty the natives could be restrained from killing the fish
afiur the whole supply of salt had been applied for their preservation. Salmon
are also plentiful in other rivers: tiiey rise froely at a proper fly, and will afford
the angler atlniirablo sport.

\/i'iM>\

•birds are killed

armers and sct-
ley sport at all,

inually for their

eadily taken in

piece of timber

These traps are

men have been

nsnared ; foxes
cs are taken in
ry plentiful, are

imely, lake and
I is still pursued
To take this
e stream, in the
f birch-bark or
nds in the stern
vhich is a speav,
[uired direction.
;he salmon dis-
terity. Besides
killed annually

r in August 1842,
3h in a few hours,
1 killing the fish
rvation. Salmon
^, and will afford

NEW BRUNSWICK.

i»r>3

Trout are exceedingly numerous in almost all the streams, and sup-
ply no inconsiderable quantity of food to tl oackwoodsman. They are
taken by children, with a baited hook attached to a piece of twine on
the end of a light pole, also in nets. In the month of March, holes are
cut in the ice, and the trout are taken in great niunbers by hooks baited
with fat pork. A warm and mild day is chosen for ice-fishing.

To those who are fond of the piscatorial art, the rivers and lakes of
New Brunswick offer abundant and varied sources of sport and amuse-
ment. In the Chcputnecticook River, where it runs through the unfre-
quented forest, the trout are so numerous that they may be swept on
shore by seines. 1 have seen the bottom of the river covered by them ;
and no sooner does the artificial fly touch the water, especially the red
hackle, than numbers of mouths are open to receive it, and the trout
frequently spring into thf! air with the deceptive bait deeply gorged.
Their ordinary weight is from half a pound to three pounds : the largest
will weigh six pounds, and even more. Among them is a white trout
called by the lumbermen " shiners." The Tobique, Aroostook, Mira-
niichi, Nepisiguit, Upsalquitch, and Restigouche abound in trout ; and
the angler is only perplexed by the weight of his load, and the diffi-
ciUty of rightly disposing of the produce of his sport.

In the lesser streams, the fish are smaller in size and inferior in
flavour to the large and more highly-coloured varieties. Sea-trout may
be taken on the north shores of the Province. In the Chcputnecticook
Lakes, there is a kind of salmon called " togue," and sometimes " tu-
ladi." It is the Salmo laaustris, a large fish weighing from fifteen to
thirty pounds. Cuvier supposed that this variety of salmon was pecu-
liar to the Lake of Geneva ; but it is found in many of the large collec-
tions of fresh water in North America. It is caught with bait in the
deepest water, in June and July, and the fishing is performed in
canoes.

Whitefish arc plentiful in the above lakes, and are annually taken in
nets by the Americans, who do not hesitate to cross the boundary and
fish in British water. The same fish are also numerous in the Tobique :
they are about the size of large herrings, but far preferable for food.
Bass, herring, and gaspereau also frequent some of the rivers at certain
seasons : their particular resorts have been already mentioned. Stur-

( J

Tl^f:

26'i<

NEW BRUNSWICK.

geon are very common in the St. John ; and gizzard fish, perch,
suckers, chub, and others of the small fry, are also obtained in that
river.

It is not probable that these fresh-water fisheries will ever be objects
of a peculiar branch of industry ; for before markets for their produce
will be formed, the quantity of fish will be much reduced. They are
rather resources to which the emigrant may direct some attention, in
order to increase his stock of provisions ; but they should never be
pursued to the neglect of the tillage of the soil.

'!'■;!; i'lj

'j,' ; . i I

;ard fish, perch,
obtained in that

II ever be objects
for their produce
uced. They are
»me attention, in
should never be

CHAPTER VIII.

THE FISHERIES OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

Next in importance to agriculture are the fisheries, which, under proper
protection and management, would supply the elements of vast export
and wealth. Of all the branches of our Provincial resources, this has
been the most neglected. Among the negotiations carried on between
Great Britain and foreign Powers, none have been more injurious to the
interests of the Northern Colonies, nor displayed less wisdom and judg-
ment, than those that have been applied to this essential portion of
Colonial resources. The indiscreet negotiations between Great Britain
and the United States of America, and the utter disregard of the existing
treaties by the latter, have not only injured the fisheries, but have
checked the spirit of enterprise among the Colonists, who turn away
from their inherent rights to avoid the insults and depredations of the
people of the neighbouring Republic. In giving a sketch of the history
of the fisheries, we quote from an able Report of a Committee of the
House of Assembly of Nova Scotia, made in 1837, which, with the
evidence connected with it, exhibits a system of invasion upon British
rights that still goes on unpunished, and is unparalleled in the records
of modern times.

" The cod-fishery of Newfoundland and Canso, on the peninsula of
Nova Scotia, commenced soon after the discovery of the former by
Sebastian Cabot, in the reign of Henry the Seventh, 1497. All nations
resorted to the banks and coasts of that island until the reign rf Eliza-
beth, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession, and claimed sove-
reignty under the right of original discovery : Newfoundland acknow-
ledged that right. The French Government disputed the claim to the
fishery of Canso, until Nova Scotia was ceded by treaty in 1749, and

266

NEW BRUNSWICK.

jfi!

i»S I

I I

■) -,

Ml il

Cape Breton conquered in 1758; from •which period, British subjects
pursued the fisheries on Brown's Bank and the banks of Nova Scotia
exclusively, and on the banks of Newfoundland in common with the
subjects of every European nation : the Colonists also, with British
subjects only, resorted at pleasure to every part of Newfoundland, and
to the Labrador coasts, after the expulsion of the French from Canada
in 1759> to which Government Labrador then belonged, leaving the
French accommodated with the Islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon,
and the northern side of Newfoundland.* At the peace of 1783, a
treaty was entered into between the United States and Great Britain,
by the third article of which the people of the former obtained the
right * to take fish on the Grand Bank and all other banks of New-
foundland, in the Gulf < f St. Lawrence, and all other places in the sea
where the inhabitants of both countries had been used to fish before,
and the liberty to fish on such part of the coast of Newfoundland as
British fishermen used (but not to dry or cure fish there), and on the
coasts, bays, and creeks of all other British dominions in America.'
Ameiican fishermen also obtained liberty to dry and cure fish in any
unsettled bays, harbours, and creeks of Nova Scotia, Magdalen Islands,
and Labrador ; but as soon as any of them were settled, this liberty
was to cease, unless continued by agreement with the inhabitants.
** By this inconsiderate article of the treaty -f- (to speak of it in the

• The encroachments of the French upon the fisheries of Newfoundland
have become a subject of general complaint by the inhabitants of that island.
Being supported by bounties, the French have a decided advantage over the
British, and the supply of bait they receive from the islanders, contrary to the
treaty, has made them most successful competitors. From encroachments and
violations of the rights of British subjects, St. John, that formerly sent one
hundred sail of vessels to the Banks, in 1844 sent only thiee. No sooner is a
British vessel anchored on the Bank, than she is surrounded by Frenchmen,
who set their bultoes and draw away all the fish.

t The Provisional Treaty of ]7!53 was framed by Mr. Oswald, the Plenipo-
tentiary of Great Britain, and Franklin and Jay on the part of the United
States. On the return of the former to England, the merchants of London
waited upon him and remonstrated against the concession he had made, of
which it has been said he acknowledged his ignorance and wept. Franklin,
in a letter from Paris, stated that Mr. Oswald appeared to be "so good and
reasonable a man, that he should be loath to lose him — he seems to have nothiii^

NKW iilUJNSWlCK.

267

British subjects
s of Nova Scotia
common with the
Iso, with British
3wfoundland, and
nch from Canada
ged, leaving the
e and Miquelon,
eace of 1783, a
id Great Britain,
ner obtained the
r banks of New-
places in the sea
i to fish before,
Newfoundland as
lere), and on the
ons in America.'
cure fish in any
fagdalen Islands,
tied, this liberty
inhabitants,
speak of it in the

of Newfoundland
ants of that island,
dvantage over the
;rs, contrary to the
encroachments and

formerly sent one
•;e. No sooner is a
ed by Frenchmen,

wakl, the Plenipo-
)art of the United
rchants of London
1 he had made, of
1 wept. Franklin,
> be "so good and
:'mstohavenothii.„

mildest terms), a source was opened from which flowed a torrent of
misfortune to the inhabitants of this Province : by it the harbours of
the Atlantic Colonies were thrown open to the vessels of the United
States ; the native fishermen subjected to a hostile rivalry, with which
they were unable to compete, and from which no prospect was afforded
of escape ; while liberties of no ordinary character were ceded to the
United States, affording profitable fields for commerce, and fostering a
race of seamen conducive to national wealth in peace, and to defence
and glory in war. Writhing under difficulties thus heaped on them,
the Colonists, by the declaratin of war in 1812, were unexpectedly
relieved, and exerted themselves to retain their restored rights. Fish-
ing vessels of the United States were ordered off by British naval forces,
or captured and condemned, on the ground that the treaty no longer
existed, maintaining that the Treaty of 1783, not having been confirmed
hy the Treaty of Ghent, was annulled by the war of 1812. At this
period warm and energetic remonstrances went from the Colonies,
soliciting the protection of their rights ; and on the subject of the
fisheries. Nova Scotia was foremost. By memorial, on the 8th of
October, 1813, she entreated His Majesty's Ministers to guard against
the hateful article of the Treaty of 1783, and to exclude the French,
American, and foreign fishermen from the narrow seas and waters of
these northern Colonies ; stating that her inhabitants procured a living
hy their industry on those shores, which unquestionably belonged to
Great Britain. She urged, that if American citizens were to obtain the
right of entering the gulfs, bays, harbours, or creeks of these Colonies,
there would be no security against illicit trade, and the numerous
evils attending such intercourse : that the sentiments, habits, and man-
ners, both political and moral, of the lower order of Americans were
dangerous and contaminating : that it was the first and most fervent
wisli of these Co". ,nies to be completely British — their surest defence

at heart hut the good of mankind, and putting a stop to mischief. Mr. Oswald,
an old man, seems now to have no desire but that of being useful." From
these, and a variety of other facts, it is plain that the British Ambassador was
completely outwitted hy the cunning and crafty course of the American Di-
plomatists, and gave away fisheries to which the Ilei)ublic had no ccjuitablc
<laim.

!:,rih.

1 I

, :i

1 1

268

NEW nilUNSVVICK.

and greatest blessing ; and that the intercourse permitted by that fatal
article of the definitive treaty was detrimental and ruinous.

•' The United States dissented from the doctrine maintained by
Great Britain, and, after protracted negotiation and various proposals,
the Convention of 1818, under which the inhabitants of this Colony
have been a second time stripped of their natural rights, was agreed on;
and, disregarding the voice of the people, the Minister of that day con-
sented that the United States should have for ever, in common with
British subjects, the liberty to fish on the southern coasts of Newfound-
land, from Cape Rae to the Raman Islands, on the western and northern
coasts of Newibundland, and from that Cape to the Querpon Islands,
on the shores of the Magdalen Islands, and on the coasts, bays, har-
bours, and creeks from Mount Jolie, on the southern coast of Labrador,
to and through the Straits of Belisle, and thence indefinitely along the
coast northerly, but without prejudice to the exclusive rights of the
Hudson's Bay Company ; and that the American fishermen should also
have liberty for ever to dry and cure fish in any of the unsettled bays,
harbours, and creeks of the southern coast of Newfoundland, as above
described, and of the coast of Labrador — subject, after settlement, to
agreement with the proprietors of the soil. In consequence of the
above stipulation, the United States renounced for ever the liberty of
fishing within three marine miles of any part of the British coasts of
America, or of curing or drying fish on them ; but American fishermen
were to be permitted to enter bays or harbours on the prohibited coasts,
for shelter, repairing damages, and purchasing wood and obtaining
water, and for no other purpose whatever, subject to restrictions neces-
sary to prevent abuses. Thus, in the face of the decisions of our Courts
' — of petitions from Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and the merchants of
London interested in the Colonies, the foregoing fatal treaty was pro-
posed, agreed on, and completed with such marked secrecy, that none
were apprised oi" its terms until it appeared in the public prints, and
the people of this Province deprived of their most valuable birthright,
the fisheries.

" The advantage conferred on the citizens of the United States of
America by the foregoing policy, was received by them, not as a boon,
biit as a right. Although the war of 1812 had abrogated the Treaty of

j! 1 i

NliW imUNSWICK.

itted by that fatal
inous.

le maintained by
various proposals,
its of tliis Colony
its, was agreed on ;
r of that day con-
in common Avith
asts of Newfound-
stern and northern
Querpon Islands,
3oasts, bays, har-
coast of Labrador,
efinitely along the
sive rights of the
ermen should also
he unsettled bays,
undland, as above
'ter settlement, to
msequence of the
ever the liberty of
British coasts of
merican fishermen
prohibited coasts,
od and obtaining
restrictions neces-
ions of our Courts
the merchants of
d treaty was pro-
2crecy, that none
ublic prints, and
duable birthright,

' United States of
m, not as a boon,
ted the Treaty of

1783, the Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States, who nego-
tiated and settled the new convention, to use his own language, said,
' It was by our act that the United States renounced the right to the
fisheries not giiaranteed to them by the convention. We deemed it
proper under a threefold view, — 1st, To exclude the implication of the
fisheries secured to us being a new grant ; 2nd, To place the rights
secured and renounced on the same footing of permanence ; 3rd, That
it might expressly appear that our remuiciation was limited to three
miles of the coasts. This last point we deemed of more consequence,
from our fishermen having infonned us, -that the whole fishing-ground
on the coast of Nova Scotia extended to a greater distance than three
miles from the land, whereas on the coast of Labrador it was universally
close in with the shore. To the saving of the exclusive rights of the
Hudson's Bay Company we did not object ; the charter of that Com-
pany had been granted in 1G70, and the people of the United States
had never enjoyed rights in that bay which could trencli upon those of
the Company. Finally, it is to be remarked, that the liberty of drying
and curing on certain parts of the coasts of Newfoundland, as secured in
the article, had not been allotted to the United States, even under the
old Treaty of 1783.'

*' When the convention was made public, the article on the fisheries
was assailed by complaints from all quarters, and none more loud or
just than those from Nova Scotia. Galled by the. recollection of the
Treaty of Paris in 1814, the Colonists felt that Great Britain, when
flushed with conquest, and wearing the laurels of victory, had yielded to
the intrigues of the vanquished, and alienated the rights of her subjects ;
they felt the utter hopeL'Ssness of breaking the treaty — that the fate
of the fishery was sealed, and were lulled into submission by the in-
timation of the Ministry, that bounties would be granted upon their
fish, to compensate for the disadvantages inevitably imposed. In Nova
Scotia, the information produced gloom, distrust, and dei^pair. They
were, however, still composed by the assurance of the Government,
that their remaining rights should be protected — that the naval force
would repel infringers of the treaty, and the flag of England would
insure safety to the industrious class engaged in the laborious pursuits
of the fishery ; and the Colonists were assured, that the vigilance of

270

NKW BRUNSWICK.

i>)

'i '

■,}4

If^

the naval force would shut out the dangerous rivalry of foreigners, at
least in the fishery within three marine miles of the coast of Nova
Scotia. How far their anticipations and hopes have been realised will
appear in the sequel."*

Notwithstanding the concessions mude by the Treaty of 1783, pre-
vious to and during the war of 1812, Great Britain enjoyed the chief
fisheries of tlie Banks of Newfoundland, Labrador, Nova Scotia, New-
Brunswick, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. f

The mackerel, herring, and gaspereau fisheries were then not pur-
sued with much ardour, as other fish were considered more valuable.
At Perce and Paspediac, there were several extensive fishing establish-
ments, and also at Shippegan and other places along the northern coast
of New Brunswick. The salmon fisheries of the Restigouehc, Mira-
michi, and Richibucto were then of much consequence, and thousands
of tierces of them were shipped annually to a foreign market. The
whole shore at certain seasons was lined by the finny tribes, which,
from the offal thrown overboard by the Americans, have since been
reduced.

Through the medium of her Northern Colonies, Great Britain then
had the command of the Spanish, Portuguese, Madeira, West Indian,
Mediterranean, and South American markets, which she supplied with
fish, and each returning ship was laden with the produce of other
countries, whereby a most active and flourishing trade was steadily

• Journal of the House of Assembly of Nova Scotia, 1837.
t According to Mr. M'Gregor, the exports in 1814 were —

1,200,000 quintals Fish, at 403 £2,400,000

20,000 „ Core do., at 12s 12,000

6,000 tuns Cod Oil, at £32 . . . . . . . 192,000

156,000 Sealskins, at 5s 39,000

4,666 tuns Seal Oil, at £36 167,976

2,000 tierces Salmon, at £.5 10,000

1,685 barrels Mackerel, at 30s. . . .. .. 2,527

4,000 casks Caplin Sounds and Tongues . . 2,000

2,100 barrels Herring, at £25 2,525

Beaver Skins and other Furs 600

Pine Timber and Planks 600

400 puncheons Berries 2,000

1 '!

Iri ,

'lili'i'

NEW JJIIUNSVVICK.

Ji7i

yr of foreigners, at

\c coast of Nova

been realised will

aty of 1783, prc-
enjoyed the chief
»Jova Scotia, Now

;re then not pur-
5d more valuahle.

fishing establish-
the northern coast
estigouche, Mira-
ce, and thousands
gn market. The
iny tribes, which,

have since been

Jreat Britain then
jira. West Indian,
she supplied with
produce of other
ade was steadily

22,400,000

12,000

192,000

39,000

167,976

10,000

2,527

2,000

2,525

600

500

2,000

maintained, and through the fisheries an inexhaustible source of wealth
was opened to the Provinces, a boundless field was oilcrcd for training
seamen, and the maritime resources of the Colonies promised sufiicicnt
support to render them a powerful rival of the whole American Re-
public. These advantages existed even under the Treaty of 1783,
which had ceded away numy British rights. The third article of that
treaty was assailed in the House of Commons by Lord North, who, in
a noble speech, declared that " in om- spirit of reciprocity, we had given
to the Americans an unlimited rignt to take fish of any kind on the
Great Bank, and use all the other banks of Newfoundland. But this
was not sufficient. We have also given them the right of fishing in the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and at all other places in the sea where they have
heretofore, through us, enjoyed the privilege of fishing. They have also
the power of even partaking of the fishery which we still retain. We
have not been content with resigning what we promised, but even of
sharing of what we have left. The United States have liberty to fish
on that part of the coast of Newfoundland which British fishermen shall
use. All the reserve is, that they are not to dry and cure fish on the
same island. This is certainly a striking instance of that liberal equity
which we find in the basis of the provisional treaty ; but where shall I
find an instance of that reciprocity which is also set forth in the pre-
amble ? We have given the Americans the unlimited privilege of fish-
ing on all the coasts, bays, and creeks in our American dominions ;
but where have they, under this principle of reciprocity, given us the
privilege of fishing on sny of their coasts, bays, and creeks ? I could
wish such an article could be found, were it only to give a colour to
this boasted reciprocity."*

If British Statesmen are indeed celebrated for their skill in diplomatic
affairs, and for wisdom and justice in their negotiations with foreign
Powers, Her Majesty's subjects have seldom discovered them on this
side of the Atlantic, in former treaties or in those now existing, by
which our fisheries have been given away, or thrown open to encroach-
ments and endless cavillings. A part of New Brunswick has been
assigned to a grasping commonwealth, who would fain spread the wings

!^.^'L^

* Cobbett, vol. xxiii. p. 451.

?l't

J^Tsi

M'^W BRUNSWICK.

of their cap^lc over the land i -vater of the whole continent ; and fears
are now entertained that th'.; Oregon Territory still in dispute will l)i>
yielded up to the avariciousness and jealousy of the Anieriean Congress.
For the leniency of the parent-country towards the people of the United
States, an apology has heen found in the fact that there is a strong
paternal allection towards the inhabitants of the New World ; but such
a feeling censes to be a virtue when it is exercised with a partiality to
the rebellious and undutiful, and is prejudicial to the faithful and
obedient.

From the rights of fishing granted to the French at the close of the
last war, and to the Americans by the Treaty of 1818, the advantages
of the great fisheries are, in a great degree, lost to the subjects of Great
Britain. The French and American Governments give bounties and
other encouragements to their fisheries on the coast. The fish taken
by the French and Americans can therefore be sold on much lower
terms in the market than tliose caught by British subjects. If they be
not put on an equal footing with the subjects of those Powers, the ad-
vantages they possess over the British miist have the eft'ect of sapping
the foundation of the trade, and subverting the fisheries altogether.*

The French had always attached a high degree of importance to the
fisheries on our coasts, and after Louisburg and Quebec, their strong-
holds in America, had been taken from them, they continued to nego-
tiate with great address and firmness for those maritime resources, not
only for the support of their trade, but also for a profitable employ-
ment, by which thousands of their subjects were annually trained to
the sea, and thereby affording the elements of a powerful navy. Of all
the men employed in this branch of industry, at least one-fourth were
landsmen, or persons unacquainted with the sea; *' and by this trade
they bred up from 4,000 to 6,000 seamen annually." f

Tn 1829, France employed from 250 to 300 vessels in the fisheries
on the British American coasts, and 25,000 sea-going fishermen, who
by treaty are not permitted to become residents. Their vessels are
from 100 to 400 tons burthen, and carry from 40 to 120 men each.

* Menioi'ial of the inhabitants of Newfoundland to Earl Bathurat.
t M'Gregor's British America, vol. i. p. 241.

NEW mUJNSWICK.

273

inent ; and fears
dispute will ho
erican Congress.
)le of the United
there is a stronti:
V'orld ; hut sueli
th a partiality to
;he faithful and

the close of the
the advantages

uhjects of Great

fc bounties and

The fish taken

on much lower
cts. If they he

Powers, the ad-
;ftect of sapping
5 altogether.*
nportancc to the
'c, their strong-
1 tinned to nego-
e resources, not
>fitahle employ-
ually trained to
ul navy. Of all
one-fourth were
id by this trade

in the fisheries

fishermen, who

heir vessels are

120 men each.

ithurst.

Since that period the number of men and vesnels hns been increased,
but to what extent I have been unable to determine.

In the above year the Americans employed in these fisheries 1,500
vessels, manned by 15,000 men, and took 1,000,000 quintals of fish
and 3,000 tuns of oil. The total number now employed exceeds 2,500
vessels and 25,000 men. At the lowest estimate, one quarter of these
vessels fish in British waters, and beyond the bounds prescribed by the
treaty. The whole quantity of fish taken in British-American seas is
now equal to 2,000,000 quintals annually.

It is justly observed by Mr. M'Gregor, that " in ceding to France
the fight of fishing on the shores of Newfoundland from Cape John to
Cape Ray, with the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, we gave that
ambitious nation all the means that her Government desired for man-
ning a navy ; and if we now determine to lay a train of circiunstances
which, by their operation, should sap the very vituls of our naval
strength, we could not more ell'eetually have done so than by granting
a full participation of those fisheries to France and America." Mr.
Rush, in his work, has given a history of the negotiations on the sub-
ject of the fisheries, and has endeavoured to defend the principles laid
down in the Treaty of 1783 ; but in this his failure is very manifest,
and it has been repeatedly decided by the best authorities that the
claims of the Americans could not be sustained by law or equity.

The fears of the Colonists at the time] when the last treaty was made
are proved to have been but too well founded, and they now realise all
the evils, and even more than they then anticipated. It is not possible
that the framers of those treaties on the part of Great Britain could
have foreseen the result of the concessions made to France and the
United States, by which the Colonies are now oppressed, and the right
reserved for them intruded upon, either by stealth or open violence.

Among the unwise and impolitic concessions made to the French and
Americans, are those that allow them to enter the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
which is encircled by British territory, and whose vast and almost un-
inhabited shores cannot be protected against aggression by fishermen.
The prohibition not to approach within three marine miles of the shore
is so easily evaded, that it is an invitation to land rather than a restric-
tion, The liberties granted to the above Powers have greatly depre-

r' ':'■■

I .. : .

•

■1

1 ^ ''.

i j

i t

[!
ft

,,(■'■;

J
,■1

«i

.in

Ni:w HIIINSNVK'K.

dated the vnliic offish in forci<^n iiiarkcts, nnd diminished the politiral
importance and real value of the fisheries. From the extraordinar)-
jirivileges granted to the Anu'riean Uepublie, and the humiliating Hur-
rcnder of Colonial rights recognised by each successive treaty, it is not
surprising that, during the ])ast year, they should again endeavour to
obtain by negotiation the few remaining fishing rights of the Colonies,
and seek a novel interpretation of the language of a treaty that, in its
plain meaning, liad already given theni far beyond their just claims.
By force and ** management," they have compelled France, Spain, nnd
Russia to nmke room for them at three different points of the compass.
Texas luis been taken by their charm. They have coaxed Great
Britain to extend their north-easteni boundary upon the lands of
Canada and New Brunswick. The aboriginal tribes of America have
been driven back, regardless of justice or humanity, until, to use the
language of one of their chiefs, " their faces are towards the great icy
ocean, where their homes will be with the white bear in the mountains
of snow, until the Great Spirit shall take them all away to the land
where the pale-faces never come." They claim the Oregon country,
first discovered and occupied by British subjects, and begin to anticipate
the possession of the whole continent. To them the remaining fisheries
of the Colonists are unimportant, except that they are an object which
will serve to perpetuate a system of constant acquisition they have
always maintained, and to which the parent-country has but too often
submitted, at the sacrifice of the interests of her faithful subjects.

In 1845, despatches were sent from the Colonial Office by Lord
Stanley, then Secretary for the Colonies, to the Governors of the several
North American Provinces, respecting the fisheries. The despatch to
Viscount Falkland dated 19th of May states, " that, after mature
deliberation. Her Majesty's Government deem it advisable, for the in-
terests of both countries, to relax the strict rule of exclusion exercised
by Great Britain over the fishing-vessels of the United States entering
the bays of the sea on the British North American coasts." This in-
telligence was received in the Provinces with the deepest regret and
anxiety. The danger of being brought to a further degree of humilia-
tion, and of having every cove and inlet lined by American fishermen,
aroused all classes of the inhabitants, and strong remonstrances were

NF.W nilUNSNVHJK.

|)romi)tly sent to the Colimiul Si'i-ri'tary iigainst a nicaHiirc timt woiild
surrender the rcnwiining (i.sliin{j ri<^lits of the people to foreipfncrd, who
hud trampled upon the restrictions of the Treaty of 1818, and many of
whom had put both National and Provincial law at defiance. Had the
request of tlie American Minister heen cou)pliud with, the present sound
loyalty of the Colonists would have had a worm placed at its root, or
hegun to falter under a burden fixed gratuitously ujjon their resourcen.
Fortunately, the active measures employed by the diflercnt I^ocal (lo-
vernments had a salutary eflect, and the American Minister was defeated
in his main object ; but not until he had declared, that the Provincial
law relating to the fisheries possessed " none of the qualities of the law
of a civilised State except its forms." In the despatch of Lord Stanley
to the Governor of Nova Scotia, of 17th September, 1815, the former
states, that, '* respecting the policy of granting permission to the fisher-
men of the United States to fish in the Bay of Chaleurs, and other large
bays of a similar character on the coasts of New Brunswick and Nova
Scotia, and apprehending from your statements that any such general
concession would be injurious to the interests of the British North
American Provinces, we have abandoned the intention we had enter-
tained upon the subject, and shall adhere to the strict letter of the
treaties which exist between Great Britain and the United States rela-
tive to the fisheries in North America, except in so far as they may
relate to the Bay of Fundy, which has been thrown open to the Americans
under certain restrictions." Here, again, a gradual yielding to the
citizens of the Republic is as manifest as ever, and which, if it be not
speedily and permanently checked, will lead to consequences most dis-
astrous to the welfare of the Colonies.

The Convention of 1818 allowed the people of the United States to
fish along all the coasts and harboiirs within three marine miles of the
shore, and to cure fish in such bays and harbours as are not inhabited ;
but if inhabited, subject to agreement with the proprietors of the soil.
It also permits them to enter bays or harbours on the prohibited coasts
for shelter, repairing damages, and purchasing wood and obtaining
water, and for no other purpose whatever — subject to restrictions, to
prevent abuses.

It has been decided by eminent lawyers, that, according to the plain

■

t: n; ii»

je7C

NEW BRUNSWICK.

and obvious construction of the convention, the citizens of the United
States cannot fish within three marine miles of the headlands of the
coasts of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; and that they have no
right to enter the bays, harbours, or creeks, except for shelter, or for
the objects before mentioned — and then only on having proved that
they left their own ports properly equipped for their voyages : but it
has been abundantly proved, by the most unquestionable authority,
from time to time, and the fact is notorious, that they frequent our
shores as freely as they do their own, or as if they had a confirmed right
to them.

Having given a very brief view of the rapid advances made upon our
fisheries by the Americans under the Treaties of 1783 and 1818, and
their pretensions to still further liberties, we may turn to the practical
effects of those treaties, and examine a little into their ultimate con-
sequences.

Not only do the American fishermen visit our shores, contrary to the
terms of the Convention of 1818, but they land and purchase bait from
the inhabitants. In numerous instances, they set their nets in the
coves and harbours of the Province, and not unfrequently compel the
inhabitants, by force, to submit to their encroachments. They land on
the Magdalen Islands, and take the fish as freely as British subjects,
who, by superior forces, are sometimes driven from their own ground.

Early in April, schooners, shallops, and other craft, are fitted out in
almost every harbour of the Western States and despatched to the
fisheries. They are amply supplied with provisions, salt, empty casks,
seines, nets, lines, hooks, jigs, and every article necessary for taking all
kinds of fish. Such as are intended for a shore or " trading voyage"
carry a stock of pork, flour, molasses, tobacco, gin, and other goods
adapted to the wants of the Provincial fisherman and his family. As
the season advances, the banks and best fishing-grounds are covered by
these craft, and whole fleets may be seen engaged in drawing up the
finny inhabitants of the sea. Very many of these vessels anchor and
fish within three miles of the shore. Daring the evening, they will
enter the small bays and inlets, set their nets, and, by early dawn on
the following morning, are seen moving off with the fish taken in the
dark hour of night. Even farther, when they have been unsuccessful

NEW BRUNSWICK.

!c>77

in obtaining bait, they draw and unload tlie nets of the inhabitants,
who, by remonstrating, are almost sure to have their nets afterwards
overhauled or destroyed.

Upon the slightest pretext, they take advantage of the humane in-
tentions of the treaty, and enter the harbours, rivers, and creeks, to
obtain wood and water. On such occasions they frequently set their
nets on the shore, and anchor as near the land as safety will admit.
Meanwhile their crews are actively employed in fishing.

The vessels, sent out for the twofold object of fishing and trading,
boldly enter the harbour, into which they pour their casks of water ;
they have sprung a mast or boom — one of the crew is sick — or some
disaster has happened, whereby they draw forth the sympathies of the
inhabitants ; but no sooner is the vessel safely moored, than a traffic
commences. Green, salted, and half-dried fish are all taken for
American goods ; which being landed free of any Colonial duty, are
given to the fishermen at a lower price than those obtained from the
established merchant. The work of the smuggler is completed in a few
hours ; and as he makes his visit at those periods when the fish are
most plentiful, he generally departs richly freighted, leaving the flakes
and salting-tubs of the shoremen empty. The fishermen of our shores
seldom resist these temptations, and they are often deceived by the
declaration, that their accommodating visitors are true Englishmen.
Should a British cruiser appear, or an officer with proper authority
take cognizance of the act, some exigency, embraced by the terms of
the treaty, are immediately brought to his notice, and duly supported
by the solemn declaration of the crew ; or if the vessel should be
seized according to law, the matter becomes a subject of grave con-
sideration between the two Powers, and, forsooth, a war may be
threatened by the apprehension of a foreigner taken in the act of carry-
ing on an illicit trade ! Thus the resources of the country are nefari-
ously taken away, and the morals of its people corrupted by the intro-
duction of practices which are abhorred by every honest inhabitant.

The merchant who pays the duties on his goods, and advances them
to the fishermen of his district under a promise of payment from the
fruits of his labour, is defrauded, and the revenue of the Province is
diminished, by an unlawful traffic. Again, many of our young men ar«

t'n-

■ ^

i378

NEW BRUNSWICK.

enticed away, and the bounties offered by tlie Americans to their fisher-
men are held out as a temptation for them to depart with their chary and
cunning visitors.

Such aggressions are not limited to any particular part of the coast,
nor to the thinly-populated districts.* Throughout the fishing season,
their vessels enter the harbours, and surround the Island of Grand
Manan. They are scattered along the shores of the Bay of Fundy,
and enter the harbours, bays, and inlets of Nova Scotia, Cape Breton,
Prince Edward's Island, Magdalen Islands, and coast of Labrador,
passing into the Gulf of St. Lawrence through the Strait of Canseau,
which, to the distance of fifteen miles, is not to exceed a mile and a half
wide. Their vessels are very numerous in the Gulf, and occupy the
best fishing stations on the banks between Prince Edward's Island and
New Brunswick, the Magdalen Islands and coast of Labrador, to the
exclusion of British fishermen. In the summer season, they line the
north coast of New Brunswick, enter the Bay Chaleurs with im-
punity, and frequent the excellent fishing-ground at Miscon Island,
and those of the Gaspe coast. As the Gulf and its bays are almost
unprotected by cruisers, they not only fish upon the shores, and carry
on an illicit trade, but sometimes drive the inhabitants away by force,
take their bait, destroy their nets, and go on shore and plunder the
harmless settlers. f Such are the operations of the Convention of 1818,
which was, as an American fisherman compared it to the Writer, " a
net set by the British to catch the Yankees ; but the meshes were so
large, that a fishing craft of a hundred tons burthen might pass through
it without touching."

* On the 5th of June last, an American fisherman was seized while lying
4it anchor "inside of the lighthouse, at the entrance of Digby Gut, near tlic
town of Digby, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, his nets lying on the
deck still wet, with scales of herring attached to the meshes, and having fresh
herring on board his vessel. The excuse sworn to was, that rough weather
had made a harbour necessary ; that the nets were wet from being recently
washed, but that the fish were caught while the vessel was beyond three miles
of the shore." — Despatch of Lord Falkland, 1845.

t See evidence taken by the I/Cgisluture, Appendix to Journal* of the Iloutv
of Assembly of Nova Scotia, 1837.

N!:\V lUlLN.^NVlCK.

iiial* of flie riou««

But the inquiry inuncdiately arises, Why are not these aggressions
prevented hy our men-of-war and eruisers on the North American
station ? To this it may be replied, that none but the smallest class of
vessels are suitable for such a service, and of such there are but few
employed on the coast. The whole length of the coasts to be guarded,
including their bays and indentations, will exceed 2,000 miles, and
therefore protection could scarcely be afforded, except by a large fleet
of small vessels adapted for running into narrow estuaries and shallow
bays. The movements of a cruiser are well understood by an Ameri-
can fisherman, w^ho, when his vessel is boarded, has sufficient ingenuity,
with the aid of the large meshes in the treaty, to " get clear off"."* Yet

• In 1839, I had occasion to take piissage in a small American mackerel
fishing craft, from Eastport to Grand Manan ; and, in consequence of the
vessel having struck a shoal of mackerel, I was detained twenty-four hours.
The " General Jackson " was filled to the hatches with salt, empty barrels,
and provisions ; along the deck were ranges of empty puncheons and casks,
and for each man four mackerel lines, completely fitted, were attached to the
inside of the bulwarks. The hook employed is about tlie size of that used in
fishing for salmon, with a conical piece of pewter ingeniously cast on the shank,
and kept bright by scouring with the dogfish skin. This is called a jig, and in
the water resembles the small sepia, or a kind of shrimp, upon which the
mackerel feed. Besides these jigs, there were a number of small iron rods,
with a hook at the end of each, being attached to a long md liglit spruce
handle. Nets are sometimes used. Several casks were filled with small her-
ring and other fish, in a state of putrefaction — these are used for bait. There
is a curious machine called the bait-mill, consisting of a cylinder studded with
sharp pieces of iron, and turned in a box, also occupied with knives and wooden
pegs. The bait is thrown into the box, the crank turned, and out of a spout
comes the ground fish, which is called poheegan. Wliile we were dashing
along in a pleasant breeze, the crew were employed in preparing bait and
cleaning the jigs. Happy in his prospects, one of the fishermen sang " Jim
Crow," and another chaunted,

''Come, little mackerel, come along,
Come listen to the Yankee's song;
See, the day is fine, the cntter's awiiy, —
Oh, come along and with us play."

After closely observing a large flight of gulls that hung over the water for some
time, the old bronzj-faced Captain spoke in a mild tone, " Make no noise.
Seth, haul the jib-sheet to windward. Aaron and Washington, small pull
main-sheet. Steady, now !" Tlie schooner now lay driving tti leeward, at a

■~-^ \

H;''-:ii h

gso

NEW BRUNSWICK.

they are occasionally taken, and comp.elled to submit to the law of the
land.

Strong remonstrances have been made from time to time by the
different Legislatures to Her Majesty's Government, calling their atten-
tion to the state of the fisheries. They have not, however, resulted in
much improvement in the prevention of the evils complained of. A
few fast-sailing schooners, properly equipped for the service, would
soon repel the invaders of our rights.

The Americans are far more successful in fishing than the inhabitants
of the British Provinces, and supply their fish at a lower price than
will remunerate our own people. This fact has its origin in a variety
of circumstances. Their Government affords great encouragement to
this branch of industry. A tonnage bounty is given to their fishing
vessels, which secures the fisherman against any serious loss in the
event of the failure of his voyage. He has also a privilege in the
importation of salt, and is protected in his home-market by a duty of

gentle ri.te, when a hogshead of pohceyan was thrown into the sea, and soon
covered the surface of the water witli oil and small fragments of fish. The
mackerel rose immediately, and formed a close shoal more than three miles in
circimiference. Scarcely a word was spoken ; and, during three hours, all
hands displayed the greatest activity in hooking, jigging, and drawing in the
fish, which sported in millions around the vessel ; nor could I remain an idle
spectator to the interesting scene. In an instant the mackerel disappeared,
and the vessel was put ir m her course, having her deck, cabin floor, and every
unoccupied space covered with the dead and dying fish, the whole quantity of
which was estimated at twenty-five barrels. This fishing took place within
three miles of the northern head of Grand Manan. Before leaving the hos-
pitable Captain, I inquired how he avoided the British cutter, t'len stationed
on the coast? To which he replied, — "Oh, we know how to work them
critters to a shavin'. Don't you see, there are about three hundred of us here ;
every one of us has a little kind of a signal. When any one sees the cutter of
your Woman King, up goes the signal ; and when the fog is so thick you can
cut it into square pieces with a splitting-knife, toot goes the coMhorn, (these
cowliorns are employed to wet the sails, and are called spouting-horns). You
see, this island is twenty-five miles long; when -the cutter comes to one eend,
we go to t'other; and when she comes to t'other, we go to t'other. Why,
friend, we bow-peep 'em." My voyage terminated, I was landed by the
Captain, who very politely offered me as many fish as he supposed I had taken
(hiring the passage.

NEW BRUNSWICK.

281

to the law of the

e to time by the
calling their atten-
)wever, resulted in
complained of. A
he service, would

lan the inhabitants
I lower price than
origin in a variety
encouragement to
n to their fishing
serious loss in the
a privilege in the
arket by a duty of

to the sea, and soon
ments of fish. The
3 than three miles in
ing three hours, all
and drawing in the
Id I remain an idle
ckerel disappeared,
ibin floor, and every
lie whole quantity of
J took place within
ore leaving the hos-
Litter, t'len stationed
how to work them
hundred of us here;
le sees the cutter of
: is so thick you can
the cowhorn, (these
uting-horns). You
comes to one eend,
to t'other. AVhy,
was landed by the
pposcd I had taken

five shillings per quintal on dry fish, and from one to two dollars per
barrel on pickled fish. The duty imposed on \merican fish imported
into the Colonies is much less, and no bounty is offered to their fisher-
men, whose markets are limited and fluctuating.*

In consequence of the great advantages aflbrded to the citizens of the
United States by the treaties, and their ready mode of evading the
stipulations of the convention, f'..eir whole system of taking and curing
fish has been rendered superior to that followed by the people of New
Brunswick and Nova Scotia. They have also the advantage of obtain-
ing provisions at a much lower rate, a greater sea-going population,
and, from long experience, a better knowledge of the most productive
fishing-grounds.

On the coast of the Eastern States, half-a-dozen '* neighbours " will
build a fishing-schooner during the winter, and send her out manned by
a few young men, with an exj)erienced captain and pilot. The proceeds
of the voyage are divided among the whole company. If a merchant
or any other person send out a vessel, he supplies nets, and the crew
find provisions, hooks, lines, &c. On her return, the cargo, or ** catch,"
is divided, each of the crew having the share agreed upon (usually five-
eighths of the whole). Under these agreements, every man has a
direct interest in the success of the enterprise, which stimulates him to
industry.

The crews of British fishing-vessels, although equally active, are
most frequently hired by the month, and, consequently, they have less
interest in the profits of the voyage. Nor is it a rare case that they
become disheartened by the threats and insults heaped upon them by
their more numerous rivals.

To encourage the fisheries, it has been recommended to admit every
article required for them duty-free — a privilege now granted by the
Government of Nova Scotia, but one which has been found open to
abuses little better than smuggling. A bounty on tonnage, or on every
quintal of dry and every barrel of pickled fish, would be returned to
the revenue by an increase of trade ; and the advancement of agricul-

* Despatch of the Governor of Nova Scotia to Lord Stanloy, 1845.

ill' •

K»Oo»

NKW UHUNSWlClv.

ture would supply the provisions now imported for the fishing part of
the population.

Many of the practices of the Americans, while they add nothing to
their own interest, arc calculated to destroy the inshore fisheries alto-
gether. It is a very general practice for them to throw all the offal of
the fish they take overboard. When such offal is thrown into the sea
at a distance of three miles from the land or bays, and in deep water,
the consequences are far less injurious than when it is cast overboard
near the shore. With a knowledge of this fact, after the offal of several
days' fishing has accumulated, the Americans vait a leisure time and
throw it into the sea within the range of boat-fishing. The whole mass
of " garbage " is immediately devoured by the fish near the land, and
to which it is extremely destructive.* Nor will codfish take the baited
hook freely at places where offal has been thrown.

By the practice of jigging mackerel, many fish are wounded and
finally die, and the living ones always retire from the dead of their own
kind. Many undue advantages are also taken of the Colonial fisher-
men, who, from inferiority of numbers, are compelled to submit to
threats and insults, and not unfrequently to be driven away from their
lawful inheritance.-j- The result has been, that French and American
fishing-vessels are rapidly increasing in numbers, while the British
fishermen are on the decline ; and if the encroachments of those two
Powers are not speedily and effectually checked, the subjects of Great
Britain will be deprived of a most valuable branch of national industry,
and the Government will discover when it is too late, that a most im-
portant part of her Colonial resources has been taken away by the
aggressions of foreign Powers.

The fisheries of New Brunswick, if duly protected, and pursued with

• The sharp bones of the spines and heads of fish, when taken by a living fish,
penetrate the maw, produce diseases of the liver and death. Fish that feed
on offal are sickly and unfit for use, I have frequently taken white stones
from the maws of healthy codfish, than which there is scarcely a more voraci-
ous animal.

t See Report on the Fisheries, Journals of the House of Assembly of Nova
Scotia, 1837.

! ■•.(

NKVV BRUNSWICK.

j-'sri

the fishing part of

ley add nothing to

lore fisheries alto-
irow all the offal of

rown into the sea
and in deep water,

is cast overboard
■ the offal of several
I leisure time and
The whole mass
near the land, and
ish take the baited

are wounded and
3 dead of their own
le Colonial fislier-
illed to submit to
m away from their
!nch and American
while the British
tients of those two
subjects of Great
national industrj'^,
3, that a most im-
ken away by the

and pursued with

ken by a living fish,
th. Fish tliat feed
taken white stones
cely a more voraci-

Assenibly of Nova

energy, would form one of the principal sources of her wealth and pro-
sperity. The coasts, indented by numerous harbours, bays, and rivers,
afford every facility for shore and deep-sea fishing ; and although the
practices of the Americans have annually reduced the numbers of the
finny tribes, they are still sufficiently numerous to render the employ-
ment, under proper management, profitable. But, from causes already
adverted to, the demand for timber, and a scanty population, the
fisheries are not pursued with energy, and the fishermen lack the
stimulus of the bounties given to the Americans, with whom they are
unable to maintain a competition.

The whole number of fishing-vessels belonging to the ports and
harbours of the Bay-of-Fundy side of the Province, in 1840, was only
sixty-five. Their burthens were from ten to thirty tons each. The
present number, including twenty belonging to Grand Manan, will not
exceed seventy, exclusive of shore fishing-boats. That island alone,
with a proper population, could employ advantageously one hundred,
and the whole coast six hundred. The number of fishing-vessels be-
longing to the United States, and fishing in the same waters, is as ten
to one. The fishermen of the Province, with few exceptions, are far
less persevering and industrious than the Americans, or even the people
of Nova Scotia.

The larger vessels fish for cod on the banks. The shore-fishing is
curried on in boats : but they are often very imperfectly supplied with
fishing-tackle, and the catch is limited. There is an annual decrease
in the number of codfish along the shores, while the haddock are quite
as plentiful as they were in former years — a circumstance arising from the
fact that the "garbage" thrown into the sea is more destructive to cod-
fish than to haddock. Halibut, hake, and other kinds of fish, are
taken by the baited codfish hook ; pollock are trailed for in swift water.

Herring are taken in nets, but the greatest quantities are caught in
*' wares."* Sweeps are also made by larg<? seines. It frequently

* These are circular enclosures of strong stakes, driven into the beaches near
low-water mark, and interwoven with brushwood. At high-water they are
covered by the sea. When the tide recedes, the fish are enclosed in the ware,
and Ifrft dry. Ths enclosure is sunietiiiics made with stron;| nets.

{

'■'i

1 «

lii

v^' ;i;

ill

m ;#

S84

KEVV BRUNSWICK.

happens that a much larger quantity of herring are taken in a single
tide than can be secured by the fishermen, or perliaps more than their
stock will cure. In such instances, great quantities of dead fish are
waslied away, and which, with the oll'al thrown into the water, arc no
doubt a great injury to the fisheries ; yet little attention is given to this
abuse of one of the best temporal gifts o, Providence. Five hundred
mul even one thousand barrels of herring are .sometimes taken in one of
these wares in a single night-tide. I have never known an instance on
the shores of the Bay of Fundy, where the proprietors of one of these
wooden cages were prepared to secure a large catch, or " haul," as it is
frequently called.

These wares, erected in the commencement of the fishing season in
almost all the bays, harbours, and creeks^ are frequently leased to the
Americans, who catch, cure, and smoke the fish upon the shores by the
consent of the inhabitants, and in direct violation of the Treaty of 1783,
and the Convention of 1818. In Passamaquoddy Bay, they fish for
cod within a quarter of a mile from the British islands. The advan-
tages of the people are thus sacrificed, often for small supplies of Ame-
rican goods, which are called for by their pressing necessities, the
offspring of their idleness, and the relinquishment of their rights.

That the fisheries are capable of supporting an extensive trade, and
of affording ample remuneration to individual exertion, is certain, from
the success that always attends the labours of those who pursue them
with activity and energy.*

Many of the inhabitants of the coast and islands engage in the dif-
ferent employments of agriculture, fishing, and lumbering; but, as

* In 1839 (which was an unfavourable season for fishing), William Gubtail
purchased for his son a boat of eleven tons burthen, for which he paid f 100.
With this small vessel, the son, with four men whom he had hired, not only
cleared the expenses and purchase-money of the vessel, &c., but supported the
whole of his father's fanfily during the whole of the winter. Between tlin
months of May and October of 1840, he made three trips to the deep-sea fish-
ing, and caught 250 quintals of codfish. Twice he went to the herring fishing,
and landed 170 barrels. He also made a third voyage for hen'ings. Thus, in
less than six months, he cleared double the value of his vessel, paid his ex-
penses, and supported his family. — Report on ihe Fisheries of the Bay of Fundy,
by Captain Robb, R.N. 1810. St. John: Henry Chubb & Co.

NEW miUxNSWlCK.

2S5

ids engage in the dif-
lumbering ; but, as

might be expected, they arc unsuccessful in each of those branches of
labour. They plant a few potatoes, and fish in boats during the sum-
mer. In winter they embark for the forest, shoot, or remain idle.
Many who take large supplies offish during their season, arc compelled
to purchase them from the trader during the cold months at a high
price. These observations will not, however, apply to the whole fish-
ing population, of whom exceptions arc to be made for a few individuals
who live comfortably, and have, by their industry, gained an honest
independence. The present degraded and unprofitable state of the
fisheries has resulted from the violations of the convention by the
American fishermen, who obtain bounties on fish taken and cured upon
British shores, and the indifl'ercnce of the coast settlers, who remain
contented with a precarious subsistence, the result of idleness, rather
than earn a comfortable competency. As natural consequences, poverty,
and sometimes absolute misery, is too often seen among them, and
the resources of both the sea and the land are unproductive in their
hands.

Mackerel may be taken in the Bay of Fundy from the 1st of May to
the middle of October. They are taken by hooks, or on jigs ; nets are
seldom employed. Mackerel fishing is not followed with much enter-
prise, and is therefore seldom profitable. The principal shad fisheries
are those of the St. John and Peticodiac. Salmon are taken in the
small bays and large rivers in nets, or speared during the dark hours of
the night. Shad and gaspereau are caught in nets. A fish called
menhaden, whicli resembles a small shad, although plentiful, is not
deemed profitable. Porpoises are shot by the Indians during the sum-
mer for their oil. Lobsters and other shellfish are abundant. Whales
are seen upon the coast at all seasons, but no attempts are made to cap-
ture them.

The Mechanics' Whale Fishing Company, and C. C. Stewart, Esq.,
of St. John, are engaged in the whale fishery of the Pacific Ocean.
The exports of whale oil from the Province average about 100,000
gallons, and of sperm oil 50,000 gallons, per annum.

The fisheries on the north-east or Gulf-of-St. Lawrence coast of New
Brunswick are not in a more prosperous state than those of the Bay of
Fundy, except at Caraquette, which exports from 8,000 to 10,000

!:*

■ 1.

- 11

w ■ i\

28(} NKW UUUNSWICK.

quintals of dry fish annually. The encroachments and contrahand
trade of the American fishermen are even more daring in the Gulf than
along the Atlantic coast.

Codfish are still abundant on many of the banks and shoals, and
great facilities are offered for shore-lishing. Haddock, pollock, iiiid
lialibut are very numerous at certain seasons ; with these there are
immense shoals of herring. Caplin are sometimes carted on the fields
for manure. Salmon frequ'.>nt all the rivers ; but since the erection of
saw-mills their numbers have decreased. Gaspereau and smelts are
taken in the principal streams ; and sea trout enter the lagoons.

Mackerel may be taken in the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Bay
Chaleurs from May to October, and large catches are made by the
American fishermen. In summer the mackerel are lean, but in the
autumn they are remarkably fat and of large size. Lobsters, clams,
and other shellfish are plentiful. Oysters are shipped from different
parts of the shore to Quebec, Halifax, St. John, and other places. In
the early settlement of the country, walruses were taken, and they are
occasionally seen. There are two varieties of seals. Whales pursue
the fish into the Gulf during th3 summer, but no attempts are made to
capture them. From the rapid increase of population, it would naturally
result that the exports of fish would be enlarged ; yet, from causes already
adverted to, the fisheries advance but slowly, and unless they are pro-
tected by the Government, they will be altogether in the hands of the
French and Americans. These inexhaustible maritime resources are
neglected, and a general apathy prevails towards the improvement of
those blessings Providence has so abundantly dispensed in the waters
of the coast.

The exportation of the produce of the British fisheries in 1830 was,
of—

Dried fish 27825 crots.

Pickled fish 21177 barrels.

,, „ 2783 kegs.

Smoked fish 4952 boxes.

,, ,, 5350 number.

Fish oil 12302 Gallons.*

• Colonial System, by Henry Bliss, Ksq., p. 58. London, 1833.

i i fnjiTrB itf n iii Ba i. -

Ni:\V urn NSWKMw

»nts and contraband
ring in the Gulf than

nks and shouls, and
ddock, pollock, and
kvith tliese there arc

1 carted on the fields
since the erection of
eaii and smelts are

the lagoons.
Lawrence and Bay
s are made by the
re lean, but in the
. Lobsters, clams,
pped from different
id other places. In
taken, and they are
Is. Whales pursue
ttempts are made to
1, it would naturally
from causes already
inless they are pro-
in the hands of the
itime resources are
he improvement of
ensed in the waters

tieries in 1830 was,

!5 crots.
7 barrels.
t3 kegs.
i2 boxes.
number.

2 Gallons.*

iondon, 1833.

Dry cod, 26.595 quintal

Wot Cod, OfKJ burrols

Herrings, tlGM boxes, 3(55 barrels

Mackerel, .'5011 barrels

Saimon, 809 barrels

Other sorts

Train Oil

1831.

» Viihic £1.1188

583

709

2.')G-t

1787

... ,, 55(H

... „ 9.')77

Total

£35972

1835.

Fish, dried Value £12891

„ pickled ,, 212G9

,, smoked

Oil, Cod liver

„ Seal

„ Whale

Total

1941

819

1088

10988

£19032»

1839.

Fish, dried, 2.3.')91 quintals Value £16227

• 11 J f 16656 barrels ^

" P"^'^^' 16242 kits ;; } ''''''

„ smoked, 14365 boxes ,,

Oil, Whale, 78327 gallons

„ Sperm, 15877 gallons ,,

,, Cod,
Whalebone,

12827 gallons
2.36 cwt. .

6854
7720
3969
1727
1323

Total

£57632t

* Colonial Tables, Murray, vol. ii. page 250.

t In the Custom-house returns of the Outports of New Bmnswick, the articles
exported in 1839 are not specified ; the table tliercfore only refers to the ex-
ports of the Port of St. John for that vear.

288

NEW DUUNSWICK.

1844.

Pickled Salmon 2170 hrU. 0419 kits.

Smoked do. 40G boxes.

Muekerel 21 barrel:*.

Dried Fish 12105 (jiiintals.

Alewives and Shads, aalted 10.110 barrels.

Codfish, pickled 211 „

Herring, salted 17.54 ,,

,, smoked 73U8 boxes.

Seal Oil 240 galls.

Cod Oil 5744 „

The above return does not include the Port of St. Andrew's and its
outbays.

1845.

Fish, dried, 8842 quintals Value £5520

„ salted, 17923 barrels „ 13144

,, smoked, 10058 boxes , 2514

„ oil, 71 barrels „ 213

Total £21097

The Legislature of the Province have recently offered a small tonnage
bounty on fishing-vessels ; but the whole sum granted for that object
was too small to have any beneficial effect upon fishing industry, which
will be observed to be on the decline.

I 1 -T

l)rU. G419 kits.

)o>a'8.

jiirrels.

liiintulH.

xirrcU.

)OXC8.

Andrew's and its

! £5526

13444

2514

213

£21697

[1 a small tonnage
;d for that object
5 industry, which

ciiAP'rEii IX.

COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY 01* NEW IJUUNSWICK.

The safety and prosperity of all the Provinces mainly depend on the
policy pursued by the parent country, or the perfection of the Colonial
system. The history of the North American Colonies is remarkable
for sudden and ruinous depressions in trade, and for speedy revivals,
according as the Acts of the British Parliament have been favourable or
unfavourable to their commerce. Instead of bounties and prohibitions,
protecting duties are now sufficient to encourage Colonial industry,
which, with enterprise and frugality, is capable of extending the na-
tional power, civilisation, and happmess. Of late, the advantages of
the Colonies have become more manifest, their resources better known
and rendered more available. By the ingress of emigrants and the
rapid increase of the native inhabitants, the population, although still
very scanty, have begun to develop the physical advantages of the
country, and, under a sound system of Colonial policy, will demon-
strate the value of the Colonies to the great Empire.

The shipping between Great Britain and her Colonies in British
America at present exceeds the aggregate foreign shipping of Great
Britain with the whole of Europe. The population of Canada, New
Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, in 1841, was about 1,300,000, and the
immigration into those Colonies in 1842 was 54,123 souls. The
united population may now be estimated at nearly 2,000,000. The
total value of imports is equal to £4,000,000, and the exports upwards
of £3,000,000.*

• Simmonds's Colonial Magazine, August 1845.

*,. I -

'if!:

290

^'r.^V ]iRUiN\SVvlCK.

In the vast trade between Great Britain and licr Possessions abroad,
New Brunswick holds a conspicuous position. The navigation of tlic
Atlantic by steam, and the increased facilities of communication, h;ivt;
already effected a change favourable to the Colonies ; and the happy
results of the contemplated railway between Halifax and Qui'bec, ex-
tending through the centre of Xew Brunswick, can scarcely be too
lightly estimated : yet, to render the prosperity of the Provinces per-
manent, and to make them a more powerful adjunct to the United
Kingdom, their commerce must be protected, their fisheries kept free
from the encroachments of foreigners, and their resources left unshackled
by close monopolies. The interests of the people must fxlso be united
to their loyalty, which they are willing for ever to maintain. Thus will
they form a wall of defence along the Arctic Continent that can never
be thrown down, and a bond of union that cannot be broken ; nor
■would the breadth of a thousand Atlantics ever alienate their affections
from the laws and institutions of the land of their forefathers.

The commerce of the British Colonies was for a long time retarded
by impolitic restrictions, and they were viewed as being only useful in
the consumption of manufactured goods, and for certain natural pro-
ductions, rather than for being a part of the Empire entitled to fair and
equal advantages. Wiser views are now entertained, and relaxations in
the restrictive principle have been mutually advantageous to the parent
country and her Transatlantic Possessions. Permission to ship timber
and fish to the Mediterranean and West Indies was followed by the
Act of 1825, by which the Colonics obtained the privileges in regard
to trade that were given to other parts of the kingdom.

For some years the Provinces enjoyed an exclusive trade with the
West India Islands, and until the Americans withdrew certain prohibi-
tions which had, until 1830, excluded them from British ports in that
quarter. Since that period, their commodities, fish excepted, were
allowed to be imported into those islands. This circmnstance caused
nn immediate decline in tlie West India trade of the Colonies, which
decreased in 1831 from 95,205 tons to 58,540 inwards, and from
95,19G to 75,8t.'(j outwards. The American tonnage rose at the same time
froiu 5,360 to •1>S,8]5 tons. The trade is still continued; and were the
fisheries irec Irom foreign aggression, and i\nproved by zeal and in-

NEW BRUNSWICK.

291

(lustry, it would rapidly increase, fish and lumber being the chief
exports from the Provinces.

The Continental System of France, up to 180C, and the American
Non-intercourse Act of 1807, convmced the British Parliament that it
was necessary to cherish enterprise and industry in tlie North American
Colonies, in order to obtain those supplies which had been received
from foreign Powers, and which were ever liable to be withheld, or
supplied at an exorbitant rate. After the struggles of war and many
attacks upon her commerce, Great Britain had experienced the danger
of foreign dependence ; the Colonial system was restored, and the trade
of the Provinces immediately revived. The timber trade with the
Northern Colonies took its rise from these causes, and has been con-
tinued with almost unabated vigour up to the present time, meeting
with occasional checks from an over- supplied market, or the relaxations
common to the commerce of all countries.

The home trade affords the best and surest markets for the staple
productions of the Provinces, whose inhabitants consume British ma-
nufactured goods to a vast amount. The productions of one part of the
Empire are now exchanged for those of another, and thereby the advan-
tages are mutual. Any change in the present system would drive the
Colonists to manufacture for themselves, and to withhold from the
mother-country the necessary commodities now sent to her ports. The
industry of the inhabitants of New Brunswick is therefore applied to
agriculture, the fisheries, and lumbering. The valuable mines that
have been discovered, have not yet been opened ; nor is it probable
that they will become objects of enterprise, until the exportable timber
has been felled, and the capital necessary to work them has accumu-
lated in the Province, — unless they should be taken up by persons in
England.

The trade of the Province is with the United Kingdom, the British
North American Colonies and West India Islands, South America, the
whale-fishery of the Pacific Ocean, Africa, the United States, St. Do-
mingo, Porto Rico, and Cuba. The exports are timber, deals, boards
and planks, shingles, staves, masts and spars, poles, handspikes, oars,
lathwood, trenails ; dry, pickled, and smoked fish ; oil, oysters, lime,
grindstones, and furs.

V 2

':\\'

fi92

NEW BRUNSWICK.

il -

Next to husbandry in importance is lumbering, in which occupation
the Province employs annually about 8,000 men. Almost the whole
surface of the country is covered by the forest, which is only interrupted
by cultivation along the banks of some of the principal streams. The
vast woods planted by the hand of Nature in the virgin soil supply to
man a harvest where he has not sown, and afford him the means of
procuring a subsistence before the earth is prepared to administer to his
wants. Their beauty and grandeur at many places are beyond descrip-
tion, and the solemn stillness of the wilderness is calculated to strike
the mind with awe and reverence. The lofty pine that has stood for
ages, towering far above his indigenous associates, is leafless, except at
the very summit. Altliough far superior in its dimensions, its trunk
resembles the stately mainmast of a ship ; yet it bends before the gale,
and waves its umbrella-shaped head to the passing breeze. Many of these
trees are eighteen feet in circumference at their bases, and taper gradu-
ally to the height of one hundred and fifty feet. In their fall, they
crush down the smaller wood ; and, by striking uneven ground, they
are sometimes broken. The spruce, although lofty, is of smaller dimen-
sions, and is recognised at any distance by his cone-shaped top and
drooping branches. The foliage of the larch and hemlock is very beau-
tiful. All these trees, with the fir and cedar, exceed in altitude the
hard woods standing among them ; their tops appear like an extra
growth above the level of the forest.

In the wilderness regions, the unwieldy moose still roams at large,
and herds of deer wander over the pathless mountains, suffering no
alarm except from the prowling wolf or hungry bear. The gloom of
the deep forest and its scenery is relieved by its sweet songsters, espe-
cially the yellow-vi.'^ged sparrow, whose piping note is echoed among
the hills. At night, in calm weather, every sound ceases, except the
hoot-hoo of the owl,* and the terrific bowlings of droves of wolves,

* In the winter of 1843, I presented a large white owl {Strix nyctea) to the
lady of a military gentleman. It was duly caged, fed, and placed in tlie spa-
clous hall of the mansion. During the first night of his confinement, he struck
his wild notes, O ho, O ho. 'Ihe gentleman, his family, and all the servants
were soon alarmed, and called to quarters, under the supposition that daring
robbers had entered some part of the house. As they paraded the hall ready

IS Vim

which occupation
Almost the whole
is only interrupted
pal streams. The
•gin soil supply to
him the means of
administer to his
re beyond descrip-
alculated to strike
that has stood for
leafless, except at
ensions, its trunk
3s before the gale,
ze. Many of these
, and taper gradu-
fn their fall, they
ven ground, they
of smaller dimen-
le-shaped top and
lock is very beau-
'd in altitude the
3ar like an extra

!1 roams at large,
iins, suffering no
'• The gloom of
t songsters, espe-
is echoed among
ases, except the
roves of wolves,

trix mjctea) to the
placed in tlie spa-
iiement, he struck
d all the servants
sition that daring
led the hall ready

NEW BRUNSWICK.

jiorj

which, as he rests his weary limbs on the bed of cedar-boughs before
the dying embers, brings apprehension to the stoutest-hearted traveller,
and deprives him of his slumber. If he seize his gun, he is unable to
discover his nocturnal visitors, unless by the flashing of their eager
eyes, which sometimes enables him to take a deadly aim. The low
bellowing of the moose seems rather friendly, although their ignorant
inquisitiveness at night is unfavourable to repose. These and other
wild scenes are familiar to the lumberman, who spends the long and
cold winter amidst the deep snows, to prepare timber for the British
market.

The whole expanse of the wilderness is claimed by the native In-
dians as their rightful inheritance, and many persons have viewed the
forest as being an impediment to agriculture and civilisation. But the
lofty groves of massive trees supply materials for commerce, and the
demands of refinement and luxury ; they afford the important articles
timber and fuel, with juice yielding sugar ; the flesh and furs of their
wild animals contribute both food and clothing to the human race, and
the annual crop of leaves enriches the soil.

Of the numerous forest-trees, we will here mention such as are at
present employed for domestic uses, and form staple articles of export.
Of the coniferous tribe, the white pine {Pimis strobus), before described,
constitutes the chief article of the timber trade. Formerly it was very
abundant, and it is still procured in remote situations. Some trees are
hewn to a length of eighty feet, and will measure eight tons and up-
wards after they are squared. Much of this timber will command a
market under any competition. Although it lacks strength, it is free
from knots, and most easily worked by the mechanic. In the Colonies,
it forms the shingles, clapboards, doors, and windows of the exterior,
and all the fine work in the interior of houses. From the great size of
the trees, the boards are admirably adapted for pannelings, and every
purpose where breadth is required. It receives a fine polish, and,
when well seasoned, is not liable to contract by being exposed to heat

for action, they v/ere saluted by O ho, O ho, which, to their great consterna-
tion, was spoken by the owl. The lady soon gave the grave-looking bird away ;
and after he had passed through several hands, he was liberated on account of
his nightly orations, and permitted to return to his native woods.

Ipf'. '

i ■ 'l <

I' '

^^y

' ii

294

NEW BRUNSWICK.

or dryness. The pine of St. John has been considered superior to that
from Quebec, and the Miramichi timber bettor than any other. At
present, the wood brought down the St. John, from its large tributaries,
is equal in quality to any ever shipped from the Province.

Pitch pine {Pinus rigidd) is a durable wood ; the trees are of mode-
rate size, and generally grow on dry ground.

The red pine, sometimes called yellow pine {Pinus sylvestris), is from
four to six feet in circumference near the ground, and grows tall. It
appears to be identical with a variety of pine imported into England
from Norway. The wood is strong and durable, except the exterior
portion of the tree, called the sap, which is generally removed by
hewing.

Hemlock {Pinus Canadensis) is a durable wood, but cracks much in
" seasoning :" it is therefore sawed into blocks, split, and shii)ped, for
lathwood. Its bark is used for tanning, for which it is well adapted.
It is very abundant, and its groves are the favourite resort of the por-
cupine. Nails, when driven into hemlock, will not rust ; and beneath
water, the tree and its bark are almost imperishable. Granaries built
of this wood will not be entered by mice.

Three varieties of the spruce are employed for various purposes.
The black spruce {Pinus nigra) is a lofty tree, and its spear-shaped top
rises far above the forest level. The essence of spruce is extracted
from its leaves, and the branches are boiled in the domestic manufacture
of spruce-beer. The wood is tough and elastic. — The white and red
spruces, so called from the colour of their barks, are of a similar cha-
racter, except that they are not employed in brewing.

The fir {Pinus halsamea) is also tall and of considerable diameter ;
but the largest trees are frequently hollow, or decayed at the heart.
It is very useful for making fences, and rives so easily that a log four-
teen feet in length, and fifteen inches in diameter, is readily split into
twelve pieces by two men with axes. It makes good staves for fish-
barrels and lime-casks. The tree yields a white transparent balsam,
applied by the inhabitants and Indians to fresh wounds. It is also
taken in diseases of the chest.

The larch {Pinus larix), or hackmatack, is a beautiful and lofty tree,
seldom more than two feet in diameter. The wood is strong, and not

NKVV lUlUNSWlCK.

>)(

i)5

•ed superior to that
an any other. At
ts large tributaries,
)vince.
trees are of mode-

sylvestris), is from
and grows tall. It
orted into England
xcept the exterior

rally removed by

JUt cracks much in
t, and shipped, for
it 7S well adapted.
! resort of the por-
rust ; and beneath
!. Granaries built

various purposes.
s spear-shaped top
pruce is extracted
nestic manufacture
rhe white and red
2 of a similar cha-

derable diameter;
yed at the heart,
'y that a log four-
readily split into
•d staves for fish-
insparent balsam,
unds. It is also

ful and lofty tree,
5 strong, and nut

liable to decay. — The white cedar {Cvprcssus thyoides) is also a fine
tree, and the wood is exceedingly durable. At present it is not much
employed, except for fencing and other domestic uses. There can bo
no doubt that it would make light and strong vessels.

Oak is scarce. Staves are sometimes made of the beech tree ; but
the principal supply is from black and white ash, whicli for their
strength and flexibility are valuable woods. The young saplings of
these trees are made into brooms : yellow birch and white liazle arc
also employed for this purpose.

Of the birches, the only kinds shipped are the yellow and black ;
and the exports of these are limited. The latter is a noble tree ; the
wood receives a fine polish, and is much esteemed for tables and olher
furniture. It is also employed in shl]^-building.

Of the maples, tlie Acer sacchurinum is the most valuable, both for
ita wood, and its sap yielding sugar. The woody fibres are sometimes
beautifully waved or curled : the curled and bird's-eye varieties are
admired for furniture. They receive as fine a polish as mahogany.

The butternut and cedar are also used by the cabinet-makers. The
wood of the wild cherry resembles the dark-coloured mahoganies.
Witch-hazle, or hornbeam, and white and black thorn, are employed
in agricultural implements.

The felling and hewing of the timber for the British market are
generally performed by parties of men hired by the timber-merchant
or dealer for the purpose. In the autunm, they are despatched into the
woods, with a supply of provisions, axes, horses, or oxen, and every-
thing requisite for the enterprise. Their stores are conveyed up the
larger streams, in tow-boats drawn by horses, or in canoes paddled by
men ; and in winter they are transported over the ice. Hay for their
teams is procured from the nearest settlements, i.iid is frecjuently pur-
chased at £G per ton. The site for operations having been selected by
the leader of the party, a camp is erected, and covered with the bark of
trees. The floor of the shanty is made of small poles, and a sort of
platform is raised for the general bed, which is composed of evergreen
boughs or straw. The fireplace is opposite the sleeping-floor; and that
part of the smoke that escapes, ascends through a hole in the roof. In
this rude dwelling the food is cooked, and the hunbermen rest at night.

\.. Wm \\

29G

NEW BRUNSWICK.

A hovel is also built for tlie oxen, and the hay secured against rain.
The party is usually divided into three gangs : one cuts down the trees,
another hews them, and the third draws the timber to the nearest stream.
They begin their work at daylight in the morning, and seldom return
to the camp until evening, when they find their supper prepared.
During the night, the fire is replenished with wood by the cook and
teamster ; and it is a common remark among them, that while the head
is freezing, the feet a i burning. I have passed several nights with
these people in the backwoods, and always found them remarkably
kind and hospitable. They are ever cheerful and contented ; and a
more hardy, laborious, and active class of men cannot be found in any
part of the world. Formerly, a certain quantity of rum was supplied
to each individval ; but since the introduction of Temperance Socie-
ties, the practice is less common.

The avocation of the lumberman is not altogether Tree from danger
Many lives have been lost by the falling of tree:., and the business oi'
forking timber is sometimes very hazardous.

In the mountainous districts, it is necessary that the timber should
be conducted over the steep precipices and high banks along the bor-
ders of the rivers. Having been collected on the tops of the cliffs, the
square blocks are launched endwise, over rollers, either into the water
below, or on the ice, which is frequently broken by the concussion.
In its descent, the passage of the timber is occasionally arrested by trees
or brushwood : the lumberman then descends, and, holding on to the
brushes of doubtful foothold, he cuts away the impediments. This
mode of launching timber is called " forking," — from which may have
originated the substitution of the phrase " forking over," for the pay-
ment of a debt, as expressed by some of the inhabitants.

By the latter part of April, the melting ice and snow, with heavy
rains, swell the streams and produce freshets. The lumbermen com-
mence *' stream-driving." The timber on the rivulets is now floated
downwards to the deep rivers; each log is launched, and, when stranded,
it is again rolled into the current — and their manner of urging the enor-
mous pieces of pine over the rapids is alike creditable to their courage
and patience. Still pushing the rafts of timber downwards, and moving
with the current that daily transports the bark that covers their movable

sured against rain.
Its down the trees,
the nearest stream,
and seldom return

supper prepared.

by the cook and
liat while the head
everal nights with
them remarkably
contented ; and a
't be found in any
•um was supplied
emperance Socie-

iree from danger
id the business oi'

the timber should
'S along the bor-
i of the cliffs, the
ler into the water
the concussion,
arrested by trees
lolding on to the
•ediments. This
which may have
-r," for the pay-
s.

low, with heavy
umbermen com-
s is now floated
, when stranded,
urging the enov-
to their courage
rds, and moving
rs their movable

NEW BRUNSWICK.

297

camps — stung by swarms of insects both day and night, these men
possess more patience under their hardships and sufferings than those
of any other class in the country. Half-a-dozen of them will frequently
navigate the stream astride a log of timber, which they paddle along
with their legs in the water ; and they will force the light skiff or canoe
up a perpendicular fall of three feet, where the roaring of the water is
truly deafening, and where there there is constant danger of being
plunged into some whirlpool, or dashed against the rocks. Although
they are frequently rendered giddy by the revolving motion of the
eddies, they fix the poles upon the bottom, and move away against the
foaming torrent, or cross the stream on slippery blocks of pine. Such
is the force of habit, that these men view the forest as their home, and
the river as their turnpike : constantly exposed to the inclemency f
the weather, and Uie water of the rivers, they appear contented, and
seem to regret when the labour of the season is ended. In situations
where the water is more tranquil, a singular spectacle is sometimes pre-
sented : each of the drivers mounts a log or piece of timber, and, with
their pikes in hand, the party move along like a floating regiment,
until some fall or rapid warns them to re-embark. Not unfrequently,
a rapid is blocked up with timber in such quantities, that it refuses to
pass. This is called a "jam." The clearing away of these jams is
the most dangerous part of the stream-drivers' employment, and who
are sometimes thrown down a fall or rapid into the boiling pool
beneath.

The quantity of timber in one of these drives is enormous : its pro-
gress along the river where the timber gets entangled among the rocks
is therefore slow, especially when the summer is advanced, and the
volume of the water consequently diminished. In order to deepen the
water, "win"" dams" are sometimes constructed on the sides of the
most troublesome rapids. The depth and velocity being thus increased,
the floating timber passes along more readily : but these dams greatly
impede the passage of canoes in ascending the streams. Like the em-
ployment of the sailor, the work of the lumberman is peculiar : he
requires much practice and experience ; and it may be safely asserted,
that should any unfavourable change take place in the home timber
trade, thousands of men will be thrown out of employment, who have

> I;* '■

5K)8

NEW UKUNSNViCK.

,i ■■ ^'

as little disposition to cTi{:jage in agriculture as those who have been
employed as sailors or fish'.rnien.

The timber and logs having been eollected, are formed into large flat
rafts, and floated down to their plaee of shipment, or to saw-mills, where
the logs are manufactured into deals, boards, planks, &c. The lumber-
men then receive their pay, which they too often spend in extravagant
festivity, until the period arrives when they again depart for the wil-
derness : yet there are many who take care of their money, purchase
land, and finally make good settlers. Timber is collected by farmers,
new settlers, and squatters, who also procure great numbers of logs for
the saw-mills ; but the greatest supplies are brought down by the
lumbermen from the interior forests.

Mills for the manufacture of timber have greatly multiplied within
a few past years. The removal of the exterior parts of the logs, by
saws, is favourable to the preservation of the wood, and by it a great
saving is effected in the freight. The saws, however, are chiefly ap-
plied to spruce, while the pine is shipped in squared logs.

Value. Persons eniployoil.

In 1831, the number of saw-milla was 229
1836, — — — 320

1810, _ _ _ 574

1845, __ _ _- G40

The present flourishing state of the trade has arisen from the higli
duties imposed on Baltic timber. In 1701, when the export of timber
from New Brunswick had only commenced, the duty on Baltic timber
was only Gs. 8d. per load ; that duty was gradually raised, and in 1812
amounted to £2 14s. 8d. per load. In 1820 it was £3 5s. per load ;
but in 1821 it was reduced to £2 15s., and, for the first time, a duty of
10s. per load was laid on American timber.* By the financial system
of Sir Robert Peel introduced into Parliament in 1842, it was proposed
to reduce the duty on foreign wood to 30s. on squared timber, and
35s. per load on deals, according to their cubic contents ; and after one
year, to make a farther reduction to 25s. and 30s. respectively, and to
levy Is. a load upon timber and 2s. a load on Colonial deals. The

£320,030

3,798

420,000

4,200

740,000

7,400

900,000

8,400

* Rupoit on Timber Trade.

NliW lUlUNSWICK.

£>99

lose who have been

rmed into large ilat
to saw-mills, where
, &c. The lumbor-
lend in extravagant
depart for the wil-
r money, i)urchasc
llected by farmers,
lumbers of logs for
ight down by the

multiplied within
rts of the logs, by

and by it a great
'er, are chiefly ap-
logs.

e. Persons cniployoil.

3,798

4,200

7,400

8,400

030
000
000
DOO

sen from the high
e export of timber
y on Baltic timber
aised, and in 1812
£3 5s. per load ;
irst time, a duty of
ic financial system
2, it was proposed
lared timber, and
Its ; and after one
spectively, and to
jnial deals. The

tidings of this movement were met in the Province by strong petitions
and remonstrances against the measure, which was afterwards carried
by a large majority, with a change in favour of Colonial deals of 2h,
per load of 50 cubic feet : the duty on foreign being 38s., and on
Colonial 2s. This change in the timber duties took place on the lOlh
of October following, and the apprehensions of its injurious eifects upon

Elie trade of the Colonies have proved to be groundless. The removal
fall duty on Baltic timber would almost aunihilute the Colonial trade.
The effect of these duties has been very manifest in the trade between
the two countries, as will appear by the following table.

Cauqoes of Timber, &c. from British America and the Baltic for last 12 years.

Uritisu

Ameuica.

Baltic.

Year end-
ing I'cb. 1,

Vessels.

Tonnage.

Vessels.

Tonna^^'c.

1835

335

11799G

27394

183G

420

163284

102

295 15

1837

328

143481

18900

1838

275

135072

19000

1839

302

1G0291

23116

1840

339

170591

17415

1841

230

133400

14000

1842

318

171948

11923

1843

165

91179

11239

1841

311

151518

17253

1845

309

189414

14144

184G

453

239S54

112

33792*

The equalisation of the duties on timber has afforded a subject of
much discussion and debate — and certair y the gradual extension of
the principles of free trade is very desirable : at present the British
consumer is paying a higher price for his timber than it would be sup-
plied for if tlie duties on foreign timber were removed. The import-
ance of the article for ship-building, machinery, and the ordinary pur-
poses of life, for which vast quantities are required, form a strong aigu-

Ileports on British Comnicrco, 1846.

■ ill

300

NliW BRUNSWICK.

mcnt in favour of allowing it to be imported from all countries duty-
free ; yet it must be conceded that, under the present Colonial system,
a great amount of capital has been invested in the erection of saw-mi'ls
and machinery, which would be rendered almost valueless by a sudden
reduction in the protective duties of the British Colonial subject. Many
thousands of men would also be deprived of employment ; and although
some of them would engage in agriculture, a great number of this part
of the labouring population would depart for the United States. The
Colonial trade, as it now exists, trains a great number of hardy seamen,
who in any emergency would be ready for defence or conquest. The
consumption of British manufactured goods is also far greater in the
Colonies than it would be in a decline of the timber trade, which now
enables the inhabitants to pay not only for the necessaries, but likewise
for many of the luxuries of life.

The timber trade has been the handmaid of emigration ; and although
the greater number of immigrants into New Brunswick by the timber
ships depart for the United States, the few that remain are greatly aided
in the settlement of wild lands by the ready market created by the
lumberman and timber-dealer.

The changes of duty on the Baltic timber, and the high prices given
in Great Britain, in 1824, gave rise to great speculations. The market
was soon overloaded with Colonial ships and timber. The result was,
that the price of wood fell one-half — many persons were ruined, and the
most cautious merchants sustained severe losses. The exports of timber
and ships at the present time are merely remunerative, and any unfa-
vourable change in the duties would be disastrous to the whole trade.

Value of the Exports of Wood in 183S.

Squared timber
Boards
Deals . .
Stiives ..
Shingles
Handspikes . .
Oars

Lathwood
Trenails
Spars . .

Total sterling

£291,817

13,437

104,150

12,909

1,905

478

4,966

157

£430,023

I countries duty-
Colonial system,
tion of saw-mi'ls
elcss by a sudden
al subject. Many
nt ; and although
mber of this part
ted States. The
of hardy seamen,
■ conquest. The
ir greater in the
trade, which now
ries, but likewise

•n ; and although
k by the timber
are greatly aided
i created by the

ligh prices given
lis. The market
The result was,
e ruined, and the
xports of timber
^, and any unfa-
le whole trade.

^ 291,817

13,437

104,150

12,<)(J9

1,905

478

4,96G

157

; 430,023

NEW HllUNSWICK.

301

The
In the

cified.

following :uo the exports of wood from St. John in 1839.
returns from the outports, the quantity shipped is not spe-

Squart'd timber . . . ■ 255, frl? tons . .

Boards (5,022 ms, feet

Deals 75,9(J9 do. do.

Stavi'S 1,858 thousand

Shingles 4,504 ditto

Jiaiulspikes 2,474 n°.

Oars 6,715 n°. ..

Luthwood 4,095 cords

Sawed Laths 129 thousand

Masts and Spars .. .. 3,804 n°.

Ship-knees 538 n°.

Vultio,

£ 277,998

10,041

189,252

8,318

3,340

117

550

4,232

2,407
109

Total sterling £ 502,970 [

For 1845—

Squared timber

Boards 10,537,000 feet ..

Deals 127,800 ms. feet

Staves 1,008 thousand

Shingles 8,371 ditto

Oars 2,117 n°.

Latliwood 4,200 cords

Sawed Laths 1,805 thousand.

Masts and Spars . . . . 2,602 n°.

.. 244,846 tons jg 275,451

26,342

.. 319,650

4,530

0,278

158

4,312

1,951

Total sterling £ 038,708

The following is a comparative s\ itement of the number of vessels
entered inwards from and cleared outwards for Great Britain, British
Colonies, the United States, and Foreign States, at St. John, in the
years ended 30th September, 1841, and 1842, with their tonnage and
men : —

* Custom-house Returns, 1840.

\;-i !

no^a

NKW nHUNSVVlCK.

Onnt
lirituin,

llritiiili Uiiileil
ColonliH 8tatei4.

For.

8tH.

31
21

4
9

Totiil

TonnuKO.

Men.

Inwards,

In 1811

In 1812

Less in 1842....

OuTWAUDM.

In 1841

In 1842

Less in 1842