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FAiliiBANK ^'■j i;^.''PNsl ^llftJ: ",4^ ^WS^i^RMWBIft^jt *•> - •«— i*i**NPR. jy«B..,Jifc^ ■"^^r LyvtimMli V«. 1 Oft«»f*«t. > V*. S Bptnctr Ha«««, « 40aa U«M|N4|*.*' SPtrkPUc*. v^<' ;,. t^ ^ '> i. ilf.l/' OF GO A r ISLAND. s&i&Eir'i-K .vi&££v»:' tt^ INDEX. .'■'■:. "■'■'. '^ ':'--■ Pace. Introductory, Nia^ra River 3 Goat Island Bridge S Goat Island , 8 Hog's Back 8 Luna Island 10 The Three Profiles 10 The Center Fall II Biddle's Stairs ii bolus's Cave 13 Terrapin Bridge 16 Head of Goat Island 19 Navy Island 19 Grand Island 32 Burnt Ship Bay aa Prospect Park 34 Crossing the River 26 The Museum ^ 30 Taple Rock , 30 Apostrophe to Niagara - 32 Burning Spring 33 Lundy's Lane Battle Ground 33 New Suspension Br'dge 34 Suspension Bridge 34 Whirlpool Rapids 36 Lewiston 41 Queenston , 43 Brock's Monument 42 Fort Niagara 43 Niagara 44 Niagara in Winter 45 Niagara Falls by Moonlight 47 The first man who saw the Falls 48 i.^'.. i INDEX. Pace. TheNiagara Frontle.- 50 The Iroquois =" The Neuter Nation • 5" The European Pioneers • 5* The Expedition of La Salle 53 The Expedition of Dc Nonville 54 The Tuscaroras 5 Niagara Frontier in i8i3. ... 56 Retrocession of the Falls 5^ Hackmen and Guides ^^ Francis Abbott, the Hermit of Niagara 03 Incidents and Casualties ^6 The Village of Niagara Falls 7o Rates of Toll '" ■'^ 'illustrations and maps. Pack. Large Map of Niagara FaUs and icinity Front of Book. Map of Goat Island ^ Goat Island Bridge American Falls from Goat Island 9 Cave of the Winds ^^ Horseshoe Falls •" ^5 Horseshoe Falls from below * ' Brock's Monument and River below Lewiston 23 American Falls Aiiierican Falls from below *5 Front of Cave of the Winds -"> Falls from New Brid:;s '^ Falls from Canadian side 3 New Suspension Bridge '^ Railway Suspension Bridge 3' Whirlpool Rapids ^9 Winter Scene, Niagara Falls 44 Horseshoe Falls ^^ ^TT^ Paob. • SO • 51 ■ 5a • 52 . 53 ■ • 54 .. 56 ,. 56 .. 58 . . 03 .. 63 .. 66 .. 70 .. 7a MAPS. Pagr. . . . Front of Book. 3 6 9 13 15 17 23 24 25 27 29 31 35 37 39 44 45 GUIDE TO NIAGARA. NIAGARA RIVER. \Y the river itself much might be written, pre- senting as it does to the historian, the geologist and the pleasure-seeker, an inexhaustible fund of historical facts and incidents; ?ji open book for geological research, and a series of views which for beauty and grandeur are unexcelled by any on the American Continent. From the source of the river at Buffalo, to Schlosser, a distance of twenty miles, it has a fall of twenty feet, or an average of a foot to the mile. Grand Island, twelve miles long and eight miles wide, lies directly in the center of the river, the distance from Buffalo to the head of the island, and from the falls to the foot of the island, being the same. The waters thus divided flow on, a grand and mighty river on either side, until it becomes again united opposite Gill Creek, from which point it assumes the majesty of an overwhelming torrent, falling from Schlosser to the brink of the preci- pice, a distance of about three miles, fifty-three feet, in its onward course falling over numerous little declivities, forming as many pleasing little cascades, and anon sweeping forward -n fierce and turbulent rapids, as if madly eager to make the awful leap into the seething .«dh. . . y v mi^«tV(l'f ii fJ <'*i,^^'JA i : 1 4 , •• ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. . /;„ cauldron below. The river, as above by Grand Island, is here again divided by Goat or Iris Island, which division causes the formation of the two great cataracts, ' the American and Horseshoe Falls ; again uniting at the foot of the island, after the awful plunge of one hundred and sixty-four feet, it sends up its bridal wreath of spray as if in token of a grand and harmonious reunion, often- times ascending to the height of a mile, appearing from a distance like the smoke of an immense conflagration, ' designating to the approaching tourist the location of this vast amphitheatre of struggling cataracts. From the foot of Goat Island to Lewiston, seven miles below, the river has a further fall of ninety-eight feet, from which point it flows grandly and serenely onward until its waters mingle with the unbroken swe'.l of Lake Ontario. The Historical associations that cluster around this wonderful river are innumerable. From the early war whoop of tribal contention through the long French and English wars to the closing of our own war of 1812-15, its borders have been the arena for many sanguinary con- flicts, innumerable deeds of valor and strategy, through the long pioneer struggle for civilized existence, till the broad- mantle of peace and Christian enlightenment settled smilingly down upon its borders, never again to be broken by the wild alarm of savage or civilized warfare. The faces of the cliffs below the falls disclose an open page for the study of geology. The different strata underlying one another are well defined, and their variations at different points of the river present an interesting study, especiall/ as this wonderful gorge lies directly in the center of the distinctive geological V. .. Grand Island, Island, which ;reat cataracts, uniting at the of one hundred wreath of spray s reunion, often- , appearing from ie conflagration, the location of racts. From the miles below, the feet, from which onward vmtil its f Lake Ontario, ister around this im the early war long French and n war of 1812-15, ly sanguinary con- strategy, through existence, till the ightenment settled again to be broken i warfare, falls disclose an y. The different well defined, and "the river present is wonderful gorge itinctive geological ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. . . 5 formation known as the "Niagara Limestone bed," the study of which has not been deemed unworthy by such minds as Lyell, Tyndall, Marsh and others. The varied and delightful scenery of Niagara is fully described in the following pages of this Guide, it being the purpose of the writer to follow and describe each point of interest in rotation, as it would most naturally follow its predecessor in a complete tour of all the interesting points. ; ^'- . -. . The map accompanying thi-i work will be of great service to the Tourist, as it points out the relative position of the different points of interest. GOA T ISLAND BRIDGE. The old wooden bridge which had stood since i8i8 was replaced by this costly and beautiful structure, in the summer of 1856. The foundations consist of massive oak timber cribs, filled with stone and covered with plates of iron. The superstructure is of iron, and consists of four arches of ninety feet span each, supported between the abutments of these piers. The whole length of the bridge is, therefore, three hundred and sixty feet, and its whole width is twenty-se^en feet. Of this width a double carriageway occupies sixteen and a half feet, and two footways, one on either side of the carriageway, occupy, each, five and a quarter additional feet. ,^^,,.-,: : /i jy'^p-ii^^:'jii:^ismm^>(s^i^^ 'W % V'rtri r tm% I'ifi I mV •■■.v:^-.-.r^--rjy<:^v^V AJ^..r> ^•/■■.^■J:-5^:^^ rft^jJiMli,. 3 I 5 '^ \ ' '^W'T - :,.-:<' i\^' ILLUSTRATED OUIDE. GO/I T ISLAND. This, though not the largest, is by far the most beau- tiful island in the Niagara. Long before it was bridged to the American shore, it was visited from time to time by the few to whom its attractions were of more potent consideration than the peril of reaching it. The late Judge Porter, who visited it in 1805, remembered having seen the names of strangers cut into the bark of a beech near Horseshoe Fall, with the subjoined dates of 1771, 1773 and 1779. ' > " '■'- The island is now owned by the Porter family, to whom it was ceded by the State of New York in i8i8. It de- rived its name from the circumstance of a Mr. Stedman having placed some goats on it to pasture. This was in 1770. The area of the island is sixty-one and a half acres; its circumference about one mile. Three paths bi' the most beau- it was bridged Jom time to time ! of more poteat ng it. The late iicmbered having bark of a beech ed dates of 1771, r family, to whom in i8i8. It de- of a Mr. Stedman lire. This was in ty-one and a half e. oad by which you ing the island into ; to the head of the aken) to the Amer- )u are conducted with the Rapids at rods to the north- jy what process of this point that the Troy, N. Y., was crumbling of a por- s the only accident s by the falling of AMERICAN FALLS FROM COA T ISLAND, k to ILLUSTRATED OUIDE. Passing by a narrow foot-path down the bank, and crossing the short bridge at your right, you stand upon a lovely spot called tUNA ISLAND. On the northern edge of this island, a few feet above the precipice, is a spot of mournful memory. On June 3i, 1849, the family of Mr. Deforest, of Buffalo, together with Mr. Charles Addington, 'heir friend, were viewing the scenery from this point. The party, in fine spirits, were about leaving the island, when Mr. Addington ad- vanced playfully to Miss Annetta, the littK daughter of Mrs. Deforest, saying, " I am going to throw you in," at the same time lifting her lightly over the edge of the water. With a sudden impulse of fear the startled child flung herself from his hands, and struck the wild current of t.ie river. With a shriek, the young man sprang to her recovery, but before the stricken group on shore had time to speak or move, they had passed over the preci- pice. The crushed remains of the lately blooming and buoyant child were found in the afternoon of the same day in the Cave of the Winds; and a few days afterward, the body of the gallant but fated young Addington was likewise recovered and committed with many tears to the village cemetery. This is, perhaps, the most touch- ing casualty that has ever occurred at the Falls. i.eaving Luna Island, pause for a moment at the foot ol the path before you ascend, while we point you out an appearance which certain imaginative persons have been pleased to call the THE THREE PROFILES. These so-called profiles are formed by the inequality of projection in that portion of the precipice which is m Jralffr ILLUSTRATED OUIDK. tt the bank, and 111 stand upon a \v feet above tlie On June 21, hiflfalo, together (1, were viewing y, in fine spirits, . Addington ad- ittK daughter of irow you in," at the edge of the the startled child . the wild current I man sprang to oup on shore had 1 over the preci- ely blooming and noon of the same :w days afterward, ng Addington was ith many tears to !, the most touch- he Falls. oment at the foot e point you out an persons have been ES. by the inequality precipice which is formed by the western side of Luna Island. The rock is adjacent to and almost under the American Fall. r//E CENTER FALL. This is that portion of the American Fall which is cut ofT by Luna Lsland. Having now ascended the bank, and rested from your fatigue, piss on ,1 few rods to the Cav • of the Winds' dressing rooms and Biddle's Stairs. Bl DOLE'S STAIRS. . . . - ,, , These Stairs take their name from the well-kown Pres- ident of the United States Bank, Nicholas BiddlC; Esq., at whose expense they were erected in 1829. They are secured to the solid rock by ponderous iron bolts, and are said to be perfectly safe. The perj)cndic- ular height of the bank at this place is :85 feet; the staircase itself being eighty feet high, and consisting of ninety steps. From the stairs to the river there is a rude pathway ; but it is seldom traversed, except for the pur- pose of angling, an art which, at the right time of the year, is here practiced with the happiest success. In 1829, shortly after the completion of the stairs, the eccentric Sam Patch, of saltatory memory, made his famous leap from a scaffolding ninety-six feet high, erected in the water at a point httwc^n this and th*; Center Fall From the foot of Biddle's Stairs, two paths lead in opposite directions, one toward the Canada, and the other toward the American Fall, The former has been obstructed by slides from above, and is not, perh!>ps, altogether saCe. Taking the latter, a few minutes' walk brings you to the celebrated Cave of the Winds. If you have provjd sd dresses, you here enter by a secure stairway. \'.i mhViiIi- -•>>. 'tTMMW.' ^ »y • ill I ! .;3aairtf.%v-**.- •. ,,iji.'-. ^"'. CAVB or THE WINDS ^ ', * ■"■■ ■ "V" ,?•:'>-■>< tr,.'-^':o -'.■■'■ -' \.-'--X-:. V „ > ♦ \, -v^:.; x ...■,..,..j.rl;5;,^^^-^^^■ ; •-'i,7'&-i'l ^•*'^/fJf* 'Wiiisi!0^rv»migf:Trr»fi'nr' '"•i S^dE^s^ :»'■ A^: }S •X. ■: V-- w*iNF-fiMti I I. I- V S T R A r K n O 1/ I I) K. »3 The foraialion of llii.i cave wnn of easy prorers. Tlie grnduul wearing away by the water of the slialy substra- tiiiii of llie precipice has left tl>e limestone rock above projecting at least thirty feet beyond the base, thus form- . ing an oi)en cave, over which falls in deep folds of azure the magnificent curt ..m ui thi; Center Kail. The com- |)ression of the atmosphere by the falling water is here . so great that the cave is rendered as stormy and turbu- lent as ihat of old y1';olus himself, from whose classical majesty, indeed, it derived its first name — BOLUS'S CAVE, Gazin » now below you at that delicate textured rain- bow trembling in the angry surge, you will hardly fail to remembtr Hyron's vivid description of the bow at the cascade of Velino : , " From side to side, beneath the gliUcring ■»iorn, ' '•. \ii Iris sits, nmidst the infernal sur^e, i.ike hope upon a dcalh-bed, ord, unworn \Ki hUrly dyes, \v|\ile all iliound is torn By the disiracled w.iteta, Sears serene ' ". Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn ; ■ - Uesembling, 'mid the torturi. of the scene, l.ovc watching madness with un ilterable mien." Ascending Biddle's Stairs, your cour;c conducts you to the right, along the verge of the precipice. Observe how the bank is gradually wearing awa/, by slides of land and crumbling of rocks from its side. It was near these stairs that the crash occurred in 1843. The detached rock now lies at the foot of the staircase. By the time you have reached the other side of the . island you will be prepared to duly appreciate the , 2 I z i J •i ^;iaiaitii!»>#i^a&aa5lja^:- I ■ i:. t4 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. estimate of its wlci^h, with which Dr. Goldsmith edified the ingenuous youth of his time. The width of the island from fall to fall is seventy-five rods. You have by this time reached the southwestern corner of the island. Be seated in the arbor near by, if you please, and we will pay you the highest possible compliment to - yourself, while gracefully acknowledging our own im- pressions of the scene, by — silence. There are many descriptions of the Falls; but they are all too lucklessly true to the form of their subject — oceans of sublimity falling into perilous depths of pathos. It may, however, be remarked in passing that, take whatever point of view we may, we find Nature here expressing herself in bold and beautiful antitheses; the Titanic strength and majesty of the cataract, and the soft grovy tendrils that bathe their verdure in its spray — the wild, distracted, maniac surge, and delicate rainbow shivering in its embrace — the whirlwind roar of falling floods, and the braided lullaby of lapsing streams. Niagara is all antitheses, all "contrasted charms!" This is commonly called the Horseshoe Fall, a name derived from the shape that the curve formerly assumed. The gradual wearing away from beneath, and falling down from above of the rocks, has changed the figure from that of a horseshoe to something now more nearly resembling that of a right angle. The width of this fall is about one hundred and forty- four rods; its height, one hundred and fifty-eight feet. The depth of the water in the center, or deepest part of the stream, is estimated at twenty feet, and this was proven by the fact of the ship Detroit, which drew eighteen feet, passing over without touching. ^ - ■v.- ^■•.oKL'^ '■^■fe'ftS^WiO'. D E. - Goldsmith edified [The width of the |e rods. You have rn corner of the by, if you please, iible compliment to ging our own im- There are many re all too lucklessly oceans of sublimity It may, however, whatever point of expressing herself le Titanic strength e soft grovy tendrils -the wild, distracted, )w shivering in its lling floods, and the is. Niagara is all ' This is commonly e derived from the umed. The gradual falling down from e figure from that of re nearly resembling ,e hundred and forty- and fifty-eight feet, sr, or deepest part of y feet, and this was Detroit, which drew touching. ..''*'■_■•'•, »»*«•/ . ^' -. .* s I id i6 LLUSTRATED GUIDE. 11 it TERRAPIN BRIDGE. ' This Bridge is subject to the action of the spray ; a little care should therefore be taken in crossing it. In the winter of 1852, a gentleman from West Troy, N. Y., while crossing to the tower, fell into the current, and was carried to the verge of the fall, where he lodged between two rocks. He was discovered by two of ihe citizens, who rescued him by throwing out lines which he fastened around his body. He remained speechless for several hours after being taken to his hotel. From this point you get the best view of the shape of the fall, and the clearest idea of how it has been modified by the action of the water. This action has been especially violent during the last few years. On Sunday, February i, 1852, a portion of the precipice, stretching from the edge of the island toward the tower, about one hundred and twenty-five feet long and sixty feet wide, and reaching from near the foot to the bottom of the fall, fell with a crash of thunder. The next day another, a triangular piece, with a base of about forty feet, broke off just below the tower. Between the two portions that had thus fallen off, stood , a rectangular projection about thirty feet long and fifteen feet wide, extending from the top to the bottom of the precipice. This immense mass became loosened from the main body of the rock and settled perpendicularly about eight feet, where it now stands, an enormous column one hundred and fifty feet high by the dimensions named above. The line of division between the government -of the United States and that of Canada is in the deepest part of the channel, or through the angular part of the fall. IDE. ■E. ion of the spray ; a in crossing it. In rt West Troy, N. Y„ the current, and was ; he lodged between two of vhe citizens, es which he fastened )eechle&s for several st view of the shape of how it has been er. This action has last few years. On on of the precipice, ind toward the tower, ; feet long and sixty the foot to the bottom nder. The next day a base of about forty er. Between the two , stood , a rectangular and fifteen feet wide, ttom of the precipice, iened from the main perpendicularly about an enormous column [i by the dimensions he government "of the is in the deepest part igular part of the fall. 4J I i8 ILLUSTRATED GUn>B 1 I ■111 Leaving the Horseshoe fall and wending our way along the bank of the river to the east, the next point ol interest is the Three Sister Islands, connected by three beautiful bridges. These costly and substantial structures, built over the three channels which separate the Three Sisters from each other and from Goat Island, present new and grand views of the rapids and falls, unequalled from any other point. These three bridges combine both strength and beauty. They are alike, being slightly oval, that is higher in the middle than at either end, thus adding to their strength. The ends are fastened into the solid rock. Two rods, two inches in diameter, pass under each bridge and are also fastened in the rocks at either end. The pc .-uliar construction of the railing adds much to their strength and beauty. Pass over each bridge slowly, and care- fully view the rapids and cascades — views never before made apparent to the eye. Here Joel R Robinson, in 1841, saved a Mr, Allen's life, and in 1854 he passed with his son over tb, rapids. From the head of the third Sister may be seen one continuous cascade for all, extending as far as the eye can reach, from Goat Island across to the Canada shore, varying from ten to twenty feet in height. From this miniature Niagara rises a spray similar to that of the great Falls. The rapids here are very fine, surpassing in volume the rapids under Goat Island bridge, and much more beautiful in appearance. The pleasure of passing over these wild and romantic spots fully repays the visitor for the trip, to say nothing of the many other beautiful resorts that abound at Niagara, both winter and summer. A few rods further on, and you have reached the -ijmmSm 1 1> E wending our way east, the next point inds, connected by itly and substantial nels which separate d from Goat Island, )f the rapids and joint. These three beauty. They are igher in the middle their strength. The )ck. Two rods, two ich bridge and are ■ end. The pt .uliar uch to their strength je slowly, and care- — views never before Joel R Robinson, in n 1854 he passed with le head of the third )us cascade for all, ich, from Goat Island g from ten to twenty ture Niagara rises a It Falls. The rapids 1 volume the rapids ich more beautiful in ;se wild and romantic le trip, to say nothing sorts that abound at . A few rods further wmimimmm IP rl-- ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. /fEA£> OF GOA T ISLAND. 19 This point commands a comprehensive view in outline of the river and its environs fo* some miles of its course. Looking up the right bank, you behold, at a distance of about a mile, a small, white farm house, with a chim- ney of most disproportionate size. This is a site of old Fort Schlosser, a name celebrated in border story. That towering chimney was taken entire from the mess-house attached to the establishment. This fort was built at an early date by the French, and called by them Little Fort. At the end of the Anglo-French war in America it was ceded to the English, and was first occupied as a military post by Captain Schlosser, from whoiji it derived its second name. One mile above Schlosser is Schlosser Landing. In a diagonal direction from this point, and near the Canada shore, is NAVY ISLAND. This island has an area of 304 acres, and belongs to the realm of Her Britannic Majesty. It is closely asso- ciated with Schlosser by an affair which, as it has not yet found its way into the pages of Bancroft or Hildreth, we will briefly relate : In 1837, a rebellion was stirred up against the authorities of Canada, by some disaffected " Radicals," under the leadership of Wm. Lyon McKenzie and some others ; but. Her Majesty's subjects not caring to side with the '* Rebels " in any great number, the movement was speedily put down. But not so the leaders. They — i. e. McKenzie, Gen. Sutherland, and five and six and twenty others — at the suggestion of Dr. Chapin of Buffalo, unfurled the standard of rebellion over- this island, designing to make it a rendezvous for the restless Jj .— '•#« 20 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. !K i^i ■ , pal.iots of both sides of the river, until sufficient strength should be gained to renew the attack. Matters were going on pleasantly — the " Patriots " being daily edified by accessions to their strength, though greatly demoral- ized by a barrel of whiskey that found its way to their panting hearts — when the difficulty of "transporting volunteers and supplies to their place of destination," and " the number of persons, from motives of business or curiosity constantly desirous of passing and repassing from the main-land to ' the patriot camp, suggested to Mr. Wells, the owner of a small steamboat lying at Buffalo, called the Caroline, the idea of taking out the necessary papers, and running his vessel as a ferry boat between the American shore and the islands, for his own pecuniary emolument." Accordingly, Friday, December 29, the Caroline left Buffalo for Schlosser; and after having arrived, having made several trips during the day, on account of the owner, was moored to the wharf at Schlosser Landing during the night. Colonel Allan McNab, then commanding at Chippewa a detachment of Ker Majesty's forces, having got wore of the enterprise of the Caroline, resolvcu upon a deec which relieves the farcical story of the rebellion by a dash of genuine daring. It is asserted that Sir Allan was informed that the Caroline was in the interests of the Patriots, chartered for their use, and intendec to act offensively against the Canadian authorities. Whether this be true or not, he planned her destruc- tion that very night. For this purpose a chosen band is detailed and placed under the command of Cap- tain Drew, a retired-on-half-pay officer of the roya navy. ILLUSV RATED GUIDE. 31 , UIDE. mtil sufficient strength ittack. Matters were s " being daily edified ough greatly demoral- found its way to their ulty of "transporting place of destination," n motives of business passing and repassing iot camp, suggested to 11 steamboat lying at idea of taking out the vessel as a ferry boat :he islands, for his own igly, Friday, December Schlosser; and after al trips during the day, oored to the wharf at It. nmanding at Chippewa forces, having got word resolvcu upon a deed ^ of the rebellion by a asserted that Sir Allan ! was in the interests heir use, and intended Canadian authorities. ; planned her destruc- purpose a chosen band the command of Cap- y officer of the royal At midnight the captain received his parting orders from Sir Allan, and the chivalrous band departed in eight boats for the scene of their gallant daring. The unconscious Caroline, meanwhile, lay peacefully at her moorings, beneath the stars and stripes of her country's banner. As the tavern at Schlosser — the only building near by — could accommodate but a limited number of persons, several had sought a night's lodging within the sides of the boat. Dreaming of no danger, they had retired to rest unprovided with arms. Thus was the night wearing on, when so stealthily came the hostile band that the faint splash of muffled oars was the first intimation that the sentry had of their approach. In reply to his question, " Who goes there ? " came, first ^^Friends!" then a heavy plashing in the water; then, the leaping of armed men to the deck. The bewildered sleepers start from their dreams and rush for the shore. " Cut them down ! " shrieks the heroic Drew, as he thrills with the memory of Aboukir and Nile — " Cut them down, give no quarter." More or less injured, they escape to the shore, with life — all but one, Durfee, the last man to leave, who is brought to the earth by a pistol shot, a corpse ! A few minutes and the Caroline moves from the shore in flames ! . Down the wild current she speeds faster and faster, flinging flames in her track, till striking the Canada waters she spurns the contact, leaps like a mad fury, and in a ini nent more is as dark as the night around her. The common account of this aff'air takes it for granted that the boat went over the Canada Fall aflame. You will read of the fated vessel lifting her fairy form to the verge of the precipice, lighting up the dark amphitheatre .M «< J". at ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. of cataracts, etc., to the end of endurance. The case was far otherwise. The physician who was called to the wounded at Schlosser was riding up the river's bank while the Caroline was descending the rapids. The gentleman testifies that the boat, a perfect mass of illumination, her timbers all aflame, and her pipes red hot, instantly expired when she struck the cascade below the head of Goat Island, .",..' GRAND ISLAND Lies not far above Navy Island, is twelve miles in length, and from two to seven in breadth. The land is highly fertile, and much of it is in actual state of cultivation. It was on this island that ^he late Major Mordecai M. Noah, of New York, designed to build the "City of Ararat," as a place of refuge for tne scattered tribes of Israel. In 1825, he even went so far as to lay th corner stone, amid infinite pomp, and to erect a monument com- memorative of the occasion. The monument is still standing, in excellent state of preservation. At the foot of this island lies Buckhorn Island, with an area of about 300 acres. Between these two islands is an arm of the river, deep and clear, called BURNT SHIP BA Y, Fiom a circumstance connected with the close of the French war of 1759. The garrison at Schlosser had already made a gallant resistance to one attack of the English and were preparing for another, when, disheart- ened by the news of the fall of Quebec, they resolved to destroy the two armed vessels containing their military stores. Accordingly they brought them to this bay and set them on fire. The wrecks, even at this day, are sometimes visible. '; | | ff, li||lrw M^^ ^||| '"' | f| > , ! il'i l| jl^J ^ .^^ l| ^.Jl.Jl■i V'"VV€-l ■*»- endurance. The case who was called to the p the river's bank while apids. The gentleman iss of illumination, her )es red hot, instantly ade below the head of ^ ,' ^' ■ ■v> twelve miles in length, h. The land is highly lal state of cultivation, te Major Mordecai M. to build the "City of tne scattered tribes of far as to lay th corner srect a monument com- rhe monument is still servation. uckhorn Island, with an \ these two islands is an called BAY, with the close of the rison at Schlosser had ;e to one attack of the another, when, disheart- )uebec, they resolved to Dntaining their military t them to this bay and , even at this day, are ■ 1 * ^ ' t * to I i f t iJI'M J I -^- -"^' ji£ Jt .. H I L, LU ST R A T BP «; U I D E. PROsrr.cr park. Following the course of the river from Goat Island Bridge toward the precipice, a short walk brings you to the en- trance of Prospect Park. These grounds, compris- ing what are familiarly known as the "Ferry Grove" and "Point Vi.ew," were purchased by the Prospect Park Company in 1872. A carriage road leading from the entrance runs along the edge of the rapids to the brink of the Falls. A solid wall of masonry guards this spot, and from the angle can be obtained a magnificent view of the American Falls and the frowning rocks below, and continues along the bank of the. river to the new Suspension Jridge, enabling persons to get a view of the American Falls, Goat Island, Horseshoe Falls, Table Rock, Clifton House, the Ferry and the new Suspension Bridge, without stepping from their carriage. Cool, shady walks run in all directions, and rustic seats at intervals invite the visitor to linger here and gaze at the magnificent scenery spread out before him. The Park Company have also erected a beautiful pavilion where visitors can " trip the light fantastic toe " within sound of the roar of the great Cataract. An elegant restaurant is also in the grounds, where they can regale the inner man when tired of sight- Mnidifti IDK. lowing tlie course I river from Goat I Bridge toward the lice, a short walk I you to the en- ; of Prospect Park, grounds, compris- hat are familiarly 1 as the "Ferry e" and "Point ," were purchased le Prospect Park any in 1872. A nee runs along the Falls. A solid wall n the angle can be merican Falls and les along the bank I .iridge, enabling trican Falls, Goat ;k, Clifton House, n Bridge, without , shady walks run intervals invite the nagnificent scenery ;;ompany have also sitors can " trip the le roar of the great Iso in the grounds, vhen tired of sight- • 3 .MK&i i A ^ ■#^*s- A^Ky-^:>^\rf:: a« I !, L u s T k A r K i> u I n E. seeing. From tlic Ferry House, near the « enter of the grounds, you can descend tliruugli a cut in tlic bank to the water's edge, a distance of 360 feet. The Hpiral stairs, constructed here in 1825, liaving hccotnc shaky with age, tlie present novel but commodious contrivance was inaugurated in 1845. 'i'he flight of steps leading along the railway consists of 290 steps. The car is drawn uj) tlie inclined plane by water-power — an over- shot wlieel bein^ turned by a stream diverted from the river for that purpose. Around a wheel eight feet in diameter, which turns in a horizontal position at the head of the railway, runs a cable two and a half inches in diameter and 300 feel in length, attached to a car at either end, and supported by pulleys placed at convenient intervals down the grade. At the foot of the stairs, turn- ing to the left, the company have erected a commodious and substantial building, from whence may be obtained, from the base of fhe descending torrent, one of the most magnificent views of the Falls. A view which the visitor should in no case fail to see. Here, also, during the afternoon when the skies are bright and the direction of the wind is down the river, the spectator may behold a marvelous picture by " Nature's own cunning hand," in colors of red, orange and violet, reflected and refracted by the spray beads of the ascending clouds. A passage has been made by which visitors may pass under and behind the American Fall as far as their inclination will prompt. ... ^ . . CROSSING THE RIVER. The advisable course, we think, is to cross the river at the Ferry in going, and at the Suspension Bridge in returning. The best time for crossing at the Ferry, in iiirnunmrn nmmmnimmim -**^ j|.«k«T».,|«^ •-.' f '• '.»^^«i-' >■'. .•; HE. • ' the confer of the :ut in the hank to feet. The spiral ing become shaky odious contrivance t of steps leading teps. The car is ■r-powcr — an over- diverted from the heel eight feet in d position at the and a half inches tached to a car at aced at convenient of the stairs, turn- ted a commodious i may be otrtained, It, one of the most w which the visitor :, also, during the id the direction of itor may behold a cunning hand," in :ted and refracted clouds. A passage ly pass under and eir inclination will ► cross the river at tension Bridge in g at the Ferry, in • • • t i ' , *. " '• " . ~ ' ( , 1 .,■:,... //I */" II' ^ilm^m & m ■mm mt 4, I- ,,'t r , . .1. kh Sfl md '/fK"'A ■'"'"•;;;ij|jif' Mlilllll"'' 1 mONT OF CA yjS OJ> JH& WINDS, 'i^y^^ %& ;^t,^^i«..^■>■^tJa^(^tlfcl ^y^:' l «^ l lfl|p r ii ll ^ l l2JJnJr ■ 7^ i.li 38 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. [id summer, is either in the morning, or two or three hours before sunset. If the light is favorable — and in summer, at these hours, it ahnost always is — this crossinf^ will probably afford you your most vivid and lasting impres- sion of the Falls. Nowhere do you have so fine a view of the Falls as from Mow, For from the base of the stupendous cataract, looking up to its towering crest, one getS a better idea of its grandeur and sublimity, the eye better appreciates the distance (one hundred and seventy- five feet) from below than when looking into its depths, and the feeling of disappointment which some experience when they first behold the Falls, vanishes as they gaze upon them from this spot. You may here test in your own experience the worth of Burke's aesthetic principle with regard to height and depth. " I am apt to imagine [Burke on the Sublime and Beautiful, §8] that height is less grand than depth, and that we are more struck at looking down from a preci- pice, than looking up at an object of equal height ; but of that I am not very sure." This was a necessary result of connecting the feeling of the sublime with that of self- preservation. We doubtless feel more of terror (are more " struck ") in looking down a depth than up a height ; but terror, so far as being a principle, or even a condition of sublimity, cannot for a moment co-exist with its nobler forms. The voyageur who crosses here may be led to ask the depth of the river. From the latest U. S. survey we are enabled to give the ictual figures. The actual depth near the center, betweei> the Ferry stairs and the landing place on the Canadian side, was found to be 192 feet. If we take into account the vast mass of rock and shale that ages ago was hurled into the river's bed when the :S34^-: ^o or three hourj -and in summer, his crossing; will I lasting impres- ; so fine a view of :he base of the wering crest, one ublimity, the eye Ired and seventy- ; into its depths, some experience les as they gaze jrience the worth d to height and the Sublime and than depth, and 'n from a preci- al height ; but of jcessary result of irith that of self- ierror (are more up a height ; but ;n a condition of t with its nobler e led to ask the S. survey we are he actual depth and the landing to be 1 92 feet. rock and shale 's bed when the J ., f -t^ > v i _v r-y . -f-y ^ r 30 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. m Falls were at this point, it is not unreasonable to suppose that then its depth was far greater — at least fifty feet. To show the extreme depth of the mighty trench Niagara has made from the crest of the Falls to the original bed of the river, must be some 420 feet. The mighty engine that still slowly performs this gigantic task, is Niagara's flood descending with resistless force, a distance of 420 feet, with the weight of 2,000,000 tons per minute. Carriages await you at the landing on the Canada side. The distance up the bank from the water's edge to the Clifton House is 160 rods. Proceeding from the Clifton House along the bank towaid ♦ »e Canadian Fall, the first object to arrest your steps is THE MUSEUM. This collection of natural and artificial curiosities is well worth seeing. The galleries are arranged to repre- sent a forest scene, filled with beasts,' birds and creeping things. There are, besides, several chained-up ferocities in the yard, and a tastefully arranged green-house in the garden. A few rods below the Museum, Miss Martha K. Rugg fell from the bank while attempting to pick a flowet that grew on its edge. She was living when reached, but expired soon afterward. The accident oc M-nd August 24, 1844. TABLE ROCK Is about twenty rods above the Museum, a: tho angle formed by the Horseshoe Fall with the Canadian bank. The bank here sends out, far beyond the line of its general perpendicular, a regular table-like ledge of rock, in the same plane with the crest of the cataract. '.■M sonablg to suppose east fifty feet. To rench Niagara has original bed of the >ighty engine that is Kiagara's flood tance of 420 feet, in lite. the Canada side. ater's edge to the from the Clifton Han Fall, the first iai curiosities is ranged to repre- rds and creeping ned-up ferocities een-house in the ^iartha K. Rugg ck a flovvci that :n reached, but •C' n-r-d August n, a; tho angle -anadian bank, the line of its ledge of rock, aract. i! li '!|' 'i'lil f! t .,ri # 3a ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. The form and dimensions of Table Rock have been changed by frequent and violent disruptions. In July, 1818, a mass broke off 160 feet in length, and from thirty to forty feet in width. December 9, 1828, three immense portions, reaching under the Horseshoe Fall, fell " with a shock like an earthquake." In the summer of 1829, another large mass fell off, and June 26, 1850, a piece 200 feet long and sixty feet deep. Those who wish to go under the Horseshoe Fall can descend a road cut from the museum to the foot of the fall. Dresses can be procured and guides obtained to pass under Table Rock. It was on Table Rock that Mrs. Sigourney wrote her spirited APOSTROPHE TO NIAGARA. Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of lieautjr. God has set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the clouds Mantled around thy feet. And He doth give Thy voice of thnnder power to apeak of Him Eternally :— bidding the lip of man Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar, pour Incense of awe-struck praise. And who can dars To lift the insect trump of earthly hope. Or love, or sorrow, 'mid the peal sublime Of thy tremendous hymn I Even ocean shrinks Back from thy brotherhood, and his wild waves Retire abashed ; for he doth sometimes seem ' To sleep like a spent laborer, and recall • His wearied billows from the vieing play, And lull them to a cradle calm: but thou. With everlasting, undccaying tide. Dost rest not night nor day. The morning stars When first they sang o'er young cre.-ition's birth. Heard thy deep anthem ; and those wrecking fires That wait the archangel's signal, to dissolve The solid earth, shall find Jehovah's name Graven, as with a thousand diamond spears^ DE. Rock have been iptions. In July, 1, and from thirty 28, three immense Fall, fell " with a summer of 1829, 1850, a piece 200 who wish to go a road cut from Dresses can be iss under Table ourney wrote her >ud« give Him hHnki waves em in birth, ingfire* ILLUSTRATED OUIDK. 33 On thine unfathomed page. Each leafy bough That lirti iueir within thy proud domain, ' Doth gather greenneu from thy living spray. And tremble at the baptism. Lo I yon birds Do venture boldly near, bathing their wings Amid thy foam and mist. 'Tis meet for them To touch thy garments here, or lightly sihr The snowy leaflets of this vapor wreath. Who sport unharmed on the fleecy cloud. And listen to the echoing gate of heaven Without reproof. But as for us, it seems Scarce lawful with our broken tones to speak Familiarly of thee. Methlnks, to tint Thy glorious features with our pencil's point. Or woo thee with the Ublet of a song, Were profanation. THE BURNING SPRING Is reached by one of the most charming and picturesque drives in this vicinity. Starting from Table Rock, the road leads across Cedar Island, along the foaming rapids, over two handsome suspension bridges, connecting Tt either extremity "Clark Hill Islands " ^ith the mainlana. The spring is about one mile above the Falls, near the head of the rapids, which are second only to the Falls, and here the view is grand. The water moving at the rate of near forty miles an hour, together with the wonders of the Spring, makes it an interesting place for the tourist. The water of the Spring is highly charged with sul- phuretted hydrogen gas, and emits a pale, blue light when ignited. To heighten the effect, the phenomenon of the burning water is exhibited in a darkened room. Near this Spot was fought the battle of Chippewa, July 5, 1814. Z UND Y'S LANE BA TTLE GROUND Is one mile and a half westwardly from the Falls. On this plain was fought the great battle of the war of 1814, July 25. The loss on both sides, in killed and wounded* was nearly i',8oo. The village near by is Drummondville, in memory of Gen. Drummond, the commander of the 8 ^ J m i~ *9 r>* -V :: , '" •■. i i?j»^;ga^ , . ii.fi 34 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. British forces on the line. From this point we return and recross to the American side by THE NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE, One-eighth of a mile below the American cataract, opened to the public on the fourth day of January, 1869. It is . the longest suspension bridge in the world, its roadway being 1,300 feet in length. Its cables are 1,800 feet in length; the towers 100 feet high, and it spans the mighty chasm through which rolls its floods towards Lake Ontario, 190 i.ct above the water. From this bridge the most delightful views of the Falls are to be obtained, as well as of the great ravine between the Canadian Fall and the Rapids, a distance of two miles, along the bottom of which the vast drainage of the upper inland seas flows in a stream 250 feet in depth. It is but a walk of twenty minutes from the principal hotels on the American side to the former site of Table Rock and the Horseshoe Fall on the Canada side. As a work of engineering art and mechanical skill, it adds new attraction to the scenery which excites the admiration of every beholder, and is indeed the envy of all other nations. SUSPENSION BRIDGE Is two miles below the Falls, is 800 feet long, and extends 230 feet above one of the most turbulent streams on the globe. It is owned by a stock company, and cost about 500,000 dollars. It was built under the superintendence of J. A. Roebling. The cars of the Great Western Rail- way pass over the bridge to connect with the New York Central. int we return and UDGE, cataract, opened ary, 1869. It is )rld, its roadway are 1,800 feet in spans the mighty i towards Lake lews of the Falls t ravine between distance of two vast drainage of am 250 feet in inutes from the > the former site on the Canada :hanical skill, it ich excites the eed the envy of ng, and extends streams on the and cost about iuperintendence t Western Rail- the New York i I I 1! i 14 I 11 4 I 3^ _ ' Illustrated o u i d fi. The following are the dimensions : ' Length of span from center to center of lowen g„ f,e,_ Heishl of tower abov« rock on the American tide gg >«' " ' Canada tide .g » floor of railway Jo.. " " track above water ^g „ Number of wire cablet '..'.',"..... Diameter of each cable !.!!!!.!!.".!.!!.! lo;* in Number of No. 9 wlre» in each cable ................ 3,6sq Ultimate agcregale ilrength of cables i,..r„i„,.. Weight of ■upenlructure g^ „ and miutimum loads i »y> " Maximum weight the cable and itayi will lupporl.. A ..."." 7^309 " NoTB.— The wire* were first got across by means of a kite. WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS. This wonderful spot is about two miles distant from the Falls, down the rushing, green river, which, flowing at a profound depth between high Jjanks, looks so quiet yet sullen, after leaving the howling abyss at the foot of the Falls. But at Whirlpool Rapids! what a change! The whole force of the water concentrates itself here, and seems as though it would tear asunder the «teep, wooded banks that inclose it, so wild and startling is its terrific power- as far as the eye can reach the water thunders dov/n in seething, heaving masses of foam, throwing up streams of water covered with spray, and in places whirl- ing it up into angry billows twenty or thirty feet above the heads of the spectators standing on the shore. It is deafening in its roar, and here, even more than at the brink of the Falls, can we have a realization of the terrific force of Niagara. At this point an elevator has been built, worked by a water.wheel some 300 feet below the top of the bank, enabling the visitor to reach the water's edge without fatigue. -.■•?3WI IDK. Sat feet. 88 " 7« " (So " 58 " 4 10^ in. 31659 19,400 lone>ng The l.ttle steamer Ma,W of tke Mist left her to trf ' ^e of t ' *"'' '.''""« ''°'^'y **"* '"to th' river to try one of the most perilous voyages ever made She 'Rhtrnln'' r ''^' '"^«^' ""** *'^»» the velocity' of ightmng passed on to meet her doom. Many beheld th.s hazardous, daring adventure, expectbg at eve y .nstant she would be dashed to piece's and'disappelr 'IDE. > feet in width, and summit of which it the gathered waters St. Clair and Erie ! river's edge, gazed listened to its roar, mass of struggling :ice. Exaggeration apids is estimated id fifty feet! The vould be: "How The answer is : Iter (very nearly) ith which it runs, point — hence the y the conclusion ■fetched or very as the visitor will e of this immense e, i86r, occurred pted by a human he Mist left her 'e the Suspension »ut into the river ever made. She ired gracefully to the velocity of • Many beheld ecting at every I and disappear t I 49 ItKUSTRATBD QUIDS. forever. Amazement thrilled every heart, and it appeared as if no power short of Omnipotenre could save her. '* There ! there ! " was the suppressed exclamation that escaped the lips of all. " She careens over ! She is lostf She is lost!" But, guided by an eye that dimmed not, and a hand that never trembled, she was piloted through those maddened waters by the intrepid Robinson in per- fect safety, and is now performing less hazardous voyages on the St. Lawrence. She is the only craft, so far as we know, that ever made this fearful trip and lived. Though our intrepid hero had performed many hazardous exploits in saving the lives of persons who had fallen into the river, yet this last act, in taking the Maid of the Mist through the Whirlpool, is the climax of all his adventures. The boat lost her smoke- stack, but otherwir "ceived no injury, being very strongly built. Three men were on board, Pilot, Engineer and Fire- man, all safe. A short distance further down stream we find the Whirlpool, which is a vast basin or amphitheatre, with an ill-proportioned opening at right angles with the river above ; this opening '» to the right as you have your back to the Falls, and is comparatively narrow. The pool is shut in on all sides, save the opening mentioned, by rocky cliffs 350 feet high, whose sides facing the river are quite smooth and perpendicular. The basin containing the pool is nearly circular, and together with the waters form a very picturesque scene. But as to the pool itself it must be acknowledged that many are disappointed with its appearance. It is not in the shape of a vast caldron or pool formed by an outlet in the bottom of a vessel, whereby Ihe center is greatly depressed, etc., but, on the I l> R. irt, and it appeared e could save her. exclamation that ov«;r ! She is lost! ' that dimmed not, vas piloted through J Robinson in per- hazardous voyages low, that ever made r intrepid hero had saving the lives of yet this last act, in le Whirlpool, is the )at lost her smoke- injury, being very Engineer and Fire- tream we find the phitheatre, with ai» ;les with the river ^ou have your back row. The pool is lentioned, by rocky the river are quite iin containing the th the waters form ) the pool itself it sappointed with its a vast caldron or ttom of a vessel, 1 d, etc., but, on the ' | ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 4» contrary, the pool in (juestion is actually ten feet higher in the center than at the sides; it is formed by the pent-up, agitated waters, in their bewildered course to find an outlet, terrifically "swinging round the circle," I can illustrate in nowise more plainly than to compare the river to some ferocious animal who, having never known defeat, has suddenly, by his own carelessness, fallen into a trap. His first im])ulse is to walk round the outer edge of the pit, that he may find a means of escape. This passage when found appears to be wholly inadetpiate, and yet it has answered for thousands of years. Facilities for seeing the Whirlpool are alTorded by an inclined railway on the Canadian side, and by a most romantic stairway on the American. Less than half a ri le further down the river, on the American side, is the Devil's Hole, a terrible gloomy and savage chasm in the bank of the river, between one and two hundred feet .deep Overhanging this dark cavern is a perpendicular precipice, from the top of which falls a small stream, usually dry in summer, named the " Bloody Run." LEWISTON. On the twenty-fourth of May, 1798, Surveyor-General De Witt wrote to Mr. Ellicott, of the Holland Land Company, "to examine where a town could most con- veniently be placed on the Niagara River, where the Indian title had been extinguished," and to " furnish a map and survey thereof." Mr. Ellicott recommended Lewiston as the place ; and surely a prettier, or at the time more eligible site, could not have been selected. It is seven miles below the Falls, nestling at the foot of th'e mountain amid a wealth of " living greenness " — th^ very ■ ■- which have retarded the growth of Lewiston, BROCK'S MONUMENT. On Queenston Heights, just above the village of this name, near the spot where the gallant soldier fell, stands a monument to Gen. Brock, benea.th which his ashes and those of his aid-de-camp, McDonald, repose. The first monument was completed in 1826, and consisted of a plain shaft of freestone, about 126 feet high, and surmounted by an observatory, reached by a spiral stairs on the inside. This was blown up by some miscreant, on the night of the 17th of April, 1840. The present structure — inaug- urated Aug. 13th, 1853, amid the enthusiasm of over jm BW&I 'E. of navigation on isiderable impor- e construction of iis, besides a pro- churches of all emy of consider- rters of Gen. Van lere may be seen Iridge erected at aining about 200 Presbyterian and y. The name of e gallant defense the war of 1812. importance has :h have retarded J village of this Idier fell, stands :h his ashes and pose. The first isisted of a plain md surmounted rs on the inside, on the night of ructure — inaug- usiasm of over ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 43 10,000 people present — is far more magnif7.:ent than the former. Its whole height is 1 85 feet. The sub-base is forty feet square and thirty feet high. On this are placed four lions, facing respectively north, south, east and west. Next is the base of the pedestal, twenty-one feet six inches square, and ten feet high. Then comes the pedes- tal, sixteen feet square and ten feet high, bearing a heavy cornice, ornamented with lion-heads alternately with wreaths in alto-relievo. From the top of the pedestal to the top of the Lise of the sliaft, the form clianges from square to round. The shaft is a fluted column of freestone, seventy-five feet in height, and ten feet in di- ameter, surrounded by a Corinthian capital, ten feet high, on which is worked in relief a statue of the Goddess of War. Then comes a round dome, nine !eet high, which is reached by 250 spiral steps from the base on the in- side. The whole is surmounted by a massive statue of General Isaac Brock.' FOXT NIAGARA Is built at the mouth of the Niagara River on the Amer- ican side. Within the last few years, important repairs have been made around the fort, and the entire wall has been constructed anew. " During the progress of these repairs, many relics of former days were found. The entrances to the several underground passages were dis- covered; but owing to their ruinous st.ate, they were not entered ; could this have been done, no doubt many in- teresting discoveries would have been made." This spot is interesting as historic ground, when associated with the memory of the h roic La Salle, and the gentle and courtly De Nonville, and all the gallant "chiefs and 44 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ladies fair " that have graced its frowning walls. The village adjacent to the fort is called Youngstown, from the name of its founder, the late John Young, Esq. Here wajj fought the battle of the 24th of July, 1759, in which Prideaux, the English general, fell, and after which ■the French garrison surrendered to Sir William Johnson, -^rho succeeded to the command of the English. NIAGARA, Opposite Youngstown, is one of the oldest towns in Up- per Canada, and was at one time the capital of the prov- ince. It is on the site of the old town of Newark, burnt by Gen. M'Clure, December loth, 1813. It is a pleasant town, facing Lake Ontario on dne side, and the river on the other. In former days, its importance was much more considerable than at present. Since the comple- tion of the Welland Canal, St. Catharines, being more centrally situated, has absorbed its trade, and detracted very much from its prosperity. A short distance above the village are seen the ruins of old Fort George, taken by the Americans, under Dear- born, May 29th, 1813, destroyed by M'Clure, December loth, and has never been rebuilt. A little belOy the town is Fort Mississaga, where a detachment of British soldiers is stationed. >E. ning walls. The f^oungstown, from )hn Young, Esq. of July, 1759, in I, and after which William Johnson, English. est towns in Up- pital of the prov- )f Newark, burnt It is a pleasant and the river on tance was much nee the comple- ines, being more le, and detracted re seen the ruins ;ans, under Dear- Clure, December little belCJir the hment of British ■V';-^j(y..<'j^j^*fr(:\ . r'»?'.>»''' " ' ' '' '■ riA ■ I 'I %\H'^ 9 •■* "-^U: WtHTER SCEHS AT NIAGARA FALLS. ',y:.--^y" ''V-; 1.-':J*.. - , ■••T-, ■aiHiwBiilii "I in Tin ■ ' ■ '• ■ '^ ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. NIAGARA IN WINTER. 4S *.>*. » ■» ■■ ■ -v-f- 5OMPARATIVELY few persons know anything of the indescribable grandeur of Niagara in winter. " No one truly appreciates Niagara who has not seen it in winter. Deeply as the manifold grand- eur and beauty of its summer aspect impress the be- holder, and solemn and delicious as are the emotions it inspires when arrayed in the rich drapery of autumn, it is still more impressive when clad in the superb and daz- zling livery of winter. "There is at this ti a universal bleakness which repels the vision" from discursive move- ments, and concen- trates it, with over- whelming effect, upon the brilliant spectacle of the cataract itself, and certainly that spectacle is among the most striking ana splendid of earthly scenes. '' Its wonderful enchantment is chiefly due to the grad- ual freezing of the spray, blown thinly over the islands and adjacent shores, until the simplest objects assume the most grotesque or significant forms, shaped in trans- parent ice Very marvelous is the change to one who stood by that majestic tide in the bright hours of August ■'■^■t'i ;t-.-...^. m I •mimi -t-a- 46 ILLUSTRATED GVIDK. I or October. The islands that were then carpeted with verdure, and beaming with the soft tints of summer, are now laid in ice as pure and solid as the most stainless Parian ; while the trees and shrubs, that so lately blazed with the splendors of autumn, are robed in the same spotless vesture, and borne down to the very ground by its massy weight. Even the giant rocks, that shoot up so boldly from the far depths of the precipice, are hooded and wrapped with vast breadths of ice, as if to rebuke their fantastic impertinence. All things areencased and enveloped with gleaming ice. Ice islands are covered with forests of ice that bend down to the ice with the iciest of fruits. Everywhere, but in the immediate chan- nel of the swollen and surging river, the ice-giant reigns sovereign of the ascendant. " One of the most singular effects of this frosty domin- ion is displayed upon Luna Island (of beautiful memory), where the trees are bowed down to the earth with their snowy vestments, like so many white nuns doing saintly homage to the genius of the place. But the most magnifi- cent and bewitching effect is produced by the morning sun when it pours over thes<: fairy-like islands and forests a flood of kindling rays. At such a moment the charac- teristic attributes of Niagara seem fused and heightened into ' something more exquisite still.'* Its intrinsic sub- limity and beauty experience a liberal transfiguration. Nature is visibly idealized. Nothing more brilliant or enchanting can be conceived. The brightest tales of magic ' pale their ineffectual fires.' Islands, whose flowers are thickset diamonds, and forests, whose branches are glittering with brilliants, and amethysts, and pearls, seem no longer a luxurious figment of genius, but a living and beaming reality One feels m the midst of such mm 1 carpeted with of summer, are e most stainless io lately blazed :d in the same ^ery ground by hat shoot up so ce, are hooded s if to rebuke re encased and s are covered e ice with the ■mediate chan- ce-giant reigns i frosty domin- tiful memory), irth with their i doing saintly most magnifi- >y the morning ds and forests It the charac- id heightened intrinsic sub- ansiiguration. e brilliant or itest tales of nrhose flowers branches are pearls, seem but a living idst of such ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 47 blazing coruscations and such glorious bursts of radi- ance, as if the magician's ring had been slipped upon his finger unawares, and, rubbed unwittingly, had summoned the gorgeous scene before him. It is as if Mammoth Cave, wi^h its groves of stalactites, 'and crystal bowers, and Gothic avenue and halls, and star chambers, and flashing grottoes, were suddenly uncapped to the wintry sun, and bathed in his thrilling beams ; or as if the fabled palace of Neptune had risen abruptly from the deep, and were flinging its splendors in the eye of heaven." It is indeed a scene of peerless grandeur, and would richly repay a pilgrimage from the extremest limits of the nation. A man of taste and feeling should be willing to " put a girdle round the globe " to witness it. We are amazed that parties of enterprising tourists do not flock there fVom all quarters of the Union. They surely have little passion for the sublime and beautif who think of the scene only to shudder at it and forego it. NIAGARA FALLS B Y MOONLIGHT. There is much the same diffierence between Niagara in the " gairish light of day " and Niagara bathed in the soft splendor of moonlight, that there would be between the Paradise Lost in the freedoin of its epic grandeur and the same translated into vapid prose. The peculiar charm of the scene is not in the separate enjoyment of the silvery light and of the forceful flood, nor yet in any contrast between the grace of the one and the strength of the other, but in the instantaneous blending of compli- mentary influences, a sort of " glndness in accomplished promise." The peculiar efiect of moonlight upon the ...■ferr.. 48 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ri features of a landscape is to harmonize, lo soften, to spiritualiie. Everything within its smile is lighter and more graceful. The rivers are turned into "vales of winding light ;" the cliffs lose their harshness of outline ; the trees, in their picturesque repose, look like the trees of a dream; even sound itself, in sympathy with the scene falls upon the ear with softer cadence. A favorite haunt at Niagara in this magical season is Goat Island. It is here that the best views are obtained of that rare phenomenon, the Lunar Bow. At the time of the full moon this exhibition is as perfect as lunar light can make it. At best, however, it is very faint, a mere belt • of the saintly hue. Many persons consider the lunar bow a sufficient justification of immoderate raptures; but its attractiveness, we cannot but think, is owing more to its being so seldom seen than to any intrinsic beauty it may possess. THE FIRST MAN WHO SA W THE FALLS. The lirst white man who saw the Falls, so far as we have any authentic record, was Father Hennepin, Jesuit missionary, sent out from the French among the Indians, as early as the year 1678 — 200 years since. His descrip- tions were visionary and exceedingly exaggerated. He thought the Falls six or seven hundred feet high, and that four persons could walk abreast under the sheet of water without any other inconvenience than a slight sprinkling from the spray. But we would not attribute this wild and fanciful description to a want of candor, or an intention to deceive. The fact probably was, he had no means of measuring its height, and undoubtedly got his account from the Indians, which very likely would be incorrect. —^m ILLUSTRATED OVIDE. 49 to soften, to is lighter and nto "vales of ;ss of outline; like the trees ithy with the e. A favorite Goat Island. i of that rare le of the full nar light can :, a mere belt ler the lunar ate raptures; nk, is owing any intrinsic FALLS. so far as we nepin, Jesuit ; the Indians, His descrip- jerated. He set high, and the sheet of lan a slight not attribute )f candor, or ' was, he had ■ oubtedly got ely would be The most graceful rhynr.es indigenous to the locality are the following by the late Colonel Porter, who was an artist both with the pencil and the pen. They were written for a young relative in playful explanation of a sketch he had drawn at the top of a page in her Album, representing the Falls in the distance, and an Indian chief and two Europeans in the foreground : "An ArlUt, undtrneath hii iign {* maiterpiece, of cour«e), Had written, to prevent mu>aket, ' Thi» represent! a hone ;* So, ere I >end my Album Sketch, leiC connoisieura ihould err, I think it well my Pen ihould be my Art'a interpreter. " A chieftain of the Iroquoli, clad In a bi»ont »kin. Had led two traveleri through th'j wood, /.(i Sa//* and HtHntfin. He points, and there they, standing, gaie upon the ceaseless flow Of waters falling as they fell two hundred years ago. "Those three are gone, and little heed our worldly gain or loss— The Chief, the Soldier oj the Sword, the Soldier of the Crosa. One died In battle, one in bed. and one by secret foe • But the waters fall as once they fell two hundred years ago. " Ah, me ! what myriads of men, since then, have come and gone ; What states have risen and decayed, what priiei lost and won ; What varied tricks the juggler, Tim*, has played with all below But the waters bll as once they fell two hundred years ago. "What troops of tourists fcave encamped upon the river's brink ( What poets shed from countless quills, Niagaras of ink; What artist armies tried to fix the evanescent bow Of the waters falling as they fell two hundred years ago. •And stately inns feed scores of guests from well replenished larder; And hackmen drive their horses hard, but drive a bargain harder ; .Vnd screaming locomotives rush in anguish to and fro ; But the waters fall as once they fell two hundred years ago. "And brides of every age and clilne frequent the island's bower. And gaxe from off the stone-built perch, hence called the Bridal Tower And many a lunar belle goes forth to meet a lunar beau. By the waters falling .is they fell two hundred years ago. 8 Mil 50 I L L U 8 T R A T E D O U I D E. "And brldgn Und thy breast, Oh. itream I and buitlng mill-whnU turn. To ihow, like Samttn, thuii art forced thy 'Uily bread to earn ; And •teamen iplath thy milk-white wavet, exulting a* they go ; But the walen fall at once they fell two hundred yean ago. "Thy bankt no longer are the name that early travelert found them, They break and crumble now und then like other banks around ihemj And on their verge our life sweeps on— alternitie joy and woe; But the waters fall as once they fell two hundred years ago. "Thus phantoms of a by-gone age have melted like «h- spray, And in our turn we too shall pass, the phantoms of to-day ; But the armies of the coming time shall watch the ceaseless flow Of water* falling as they fell two hundred years ago." THE NIAGARA FRONTIER. Niagara River, from lake to lake, comprehends a length of only about thirty-six miles. Contracted as this border region is, as an important section of the geographical lines between governments that have not always been on terms of amity, it has often been made the theatre of war. Its localities are therefore associated with the history of our country, and with the fame of her military .chieftains, and on this, if on no other account, are worthy of a description. The history of this region discloses to our view, first, the lordly Indian, roaming the majestic solitude; next, the wary pioneers of the civilization and the vices of Europe, mingling the hereditary hatred of their respective nations when cross- ing one another's path; then, a protracted strife for the mastery between the delegated powers of the nations; then, a lull of peace and prosperity; again, the atrocities of war ; and again, and now, the blessings of peace. First, our immediate predecessors. Mb ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. SI g mill-wh«el« turn, tl to »rn ; i« Ihey go ■, n ago. found lh«m, ka around th«iii| ind woe : » ago. ■ »P'»y. -day ; laeleis flow f. hends a length [ as this border : geographical t always been ide the theatre iated with the jf her military account, are )f this region tdian, roaming oneers of the mingling the IS when cross- ted strife for »wers of the perity; again, , the blessings THE IROQUOIS. This was the name given by the Fjench to the confed- eracy of the Five Nations, consisting of the Mohawks, on the river of that name, the Oneidas, on the southern shore of Oneida Lake, the Cayugas, near Cayuga Lake, and the Senecas, stretching from the Seneca Lake to the Niagara River. Father Hennepin "^ays tliat there were villages of the Senecas on the Niagara not many miles above the Falls. The Iroquois Senecas were, therefore, the immediate predecessors of the whites on litis frontier. Remnants of this once mighty people, whom Volney, in a burst of enthusiasm, called the Romans of the West, still linger round their primeval homesteads. The Tus- caroras, a tribe iricorporated with the Iroquois in 171a, still enjoy the reservation of their lands, and occupy a village about nine miles from the Falls. The renuins of the Senecas dwell further to the south. It is a curious fact, that, while the rapacity of the white man has stripped them almost entirely of their possessions, and shorn them of their power, their ancient league is still in force, their traditional customs still observed. Yearly they glide to their council-fire through the waving grain-lands of their once forest-home, like lingering spirits of the past, to banquet on the recollections of their traditionary great- ' ness. From their ancient seat at Onondaga, the council- fire is transferred to Tonawanda. Here their representa- tives yet assemble and perform their ancient rites and ceremonies. It must not, however, be inferred that the Iroquois Senecas were the original proprietors of the soil, or the first of whom we have any account. Just above the hori- 5» ILLUSTRATED OUIUK. ron of history flits the shadow of a great and peaceful tribe, THE NEUTER NATION, Supposed to be identical with the Kah-Kwas, "in whose wigwams the fierce Hurons and relentless Iro(|uois met on neutral ground" Father L'Allemant, in 1641 men- tions distinctly " the easternmost village of the Neutral Nation, 'Ongniaarha' (Niagara), of the same name as the fiver." In the following year Charlevoix also men- tions this people, and says that they were called " ' neutral ' because they took no part in the wars which desolated the country." Canada West was the seat of the "fierce Hurons." Situated between this warlike people and the Iroouois, the neutrality of the Kah-Kwas could not long be preserved. "To avoid the fury of the Iro(|uois they joined them against the Hurons, but gained nothing by the union." They fell victims to the furious power they sought to conciliate, and disappeared as a nation about the year 1643. To their seats, as we have said, suc- ceeded the Senecas, who were in occupation of them when first visited by -.^ THE AVROPEAN PIONEERS. , It Is not known when this region was first visited by Europeans, though such an event was possible any time ai or the discovery of the St. Lawrence in 1534. " French traders are said to have visited the Falls as early as i6io and 1615, but there are no authentic ac- counts to confirm this statement." Side by side with the French trader came the missionary priest — first the humble Franciscan, and th^n the wary disciple of Loyola. F'ather L'Allemant, writing of the Neuter Na- tion from St. Mary's Mission in 1641, says: "Although »*^- mimim* I and peaceful was, " in whose Irotjuois met in 1641 men- of the Neutral same name as voix also men- t'l "'neutral* 'hich desolated of the " fierce people and the could not long e Iro(iuois they led nothing by Dus power they a nation about lave said, suc- l)ation of them first visited by ssibU any time 1534- :d the Falls as authentic ac- by side with y priest— first iry disciple of le Neuter Na- : "Although ILLUSTRATED Gl/IDC. 1% many of our French in that quarter have visited this people to profit by their furs and other commodities, we have no knowledge of any wl o have been there to preach the gospel except Father De La Roch Daillon, a Recol- lect, who passed the winter there in the year 1625." This good father was probably the first European in Western New York, and even of him it is said " there is no evidence that he ever saw the Falls." In the fall of 1640, two missionary fathers, Jean de Breboeuf and Jo- seph Marie Chaumont, found their way to some part of this region, but if they saw the Falls they made no men- tion of them. In 1660, Ducreux wrote a work called " Historiai Canadensis," and noted the F'alls on a map; oui ine prouauiiuy is inai ne took them from nearsay, as he makes no allusion to them in his narrative. THE EXPEDITION OF LA SALLE. Robert Cavalier de La Salle, a native of France, set out for the new world in 1667. Following up the St. Lawrence, he explored Lake Ontario, and ascended to Lake Erie. La Salle had heard from the Indians of the majestic Ohio, and of the fertile regions beyond, and in the mind of this man was first formed the project of uniting Canada with the valley of the Mississippi by a chain of military posts. Presenting his plans in a memorial to his government, and obtaining a commission for the explora- tion of the Father of Waters, he set out on his expedition in the fall of 1678, with a numerous band of followers, among whom was Tonti, the Italian, and Father Henne- pin. Touching at the present site of Fort Niagara, he there established a trading post. Making the portage from Lewiston to Cayuga Creek, on the American side, the whole company improved the opportunity of viewing I m ' 54 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE m the Falls. Good Father Hennepin was quite bowed down beneath their grandeur. He is confident that they are above six hundred feet high, and describes them as "avast and prodigious cadence of water, which falls down after a surprising and astonishing manner, inso- much that the universe does not afford a parallel." As they purposed visiting the head waters of the Mississippi, it was necessary first to build a suitable vessel to navigate the upper lakes. Accordingly a vessel of sixty tons burden was built at the mouth of the Cayuga Creek, on the American side of the river, about five miles above the Falls. The vessel was named the " Griffin," in allusion to the arms of the Count de Frontenac, the early patron of La Salle. On the seventh of August, 1679, amid the firing of guns, and the singing of the Te Dfum, the Griffin lifted her sails to the breeze — the first keel to enter tl»e waters of the upper lakes. TffE EXPEDITION OF DE NONVILLE When Champlain came out from France in 1603, he unwisely made the Iroquois the deadly enemies of the French, by actively co-operating with the Hurons against them. This course of policy had been afterward pur- sued as a tradition, and when the Marquis de Noovillc succeeded to the government of New France, in 1685, he found himself involved in a war with the Iroquois, in defense of his Indian allies of the west. He at once resolved to attack the Senecas first, and to build a fort at Niagara, where La Salle had left a trading post. " The commandants of the French posts at the west were ordered to- rendezvous at Niagara, with their troops, and the warriors of their Indian allies were in that quarter." MUHiiMiM : quite bowed [ident that they cribes them as ;r, which falls manner, inso- parallel." As the Mississippi, 5sel to navigate of sixty tons yuga Creek, on niles above the n," in allusion lie early patron 1679, amid the Te Deum, the St keel to enter FILLS ce in 1603, he enemies of the Hurons against afterward pur- ais de Nooville ice, in 1685, he le Iroquois, in £. He at once > build a fort at ig post. "The the west were leir troops, and I that quarter." \ ^ a Large Country in America. 29 in Winter it is more difficult, becaufe of the outrageous Winds which abound there. From this Lake one may go by Barks, or by greater VefTels to the foot of a great Rock that ts about two Leagues off the Fall of the R.ver Niagara, which I am now to defcnbe. CHAP. VIL A Dercription of the Fall of the River "i^x^g^r^, which is to befeen betwixt the Lake Ontario and that of ^nh. BEtwixt the Lake Ontario and Erii, there is a vaa and prodigious Cadence of Wa- ter which falls down after a furprizing and aaonidiing manner, infomuch that the Uni- verfe does not afford its Parallel. Tis t«-"e, Italy and Suedeland boaR of fome fuch Things ; but we may well fay they are but forry lat- terns, when compar'd to this of which we now fpeak. At the foot of this horrible Pre- cipice, we meet with the River M^^^m, which is not above a quarter of a League broad, but is wonderfully deep in fome places. It is fo rapid above this Defcent, that it vio- lently hurric= down the wild BeaRs while endeavouring to pafs it to feed on the other fide, they not bein,? able to withftand the force of its Current, which inevitably catts them headlong above Six hundred foot 'This wonderful Downfal, is compounded of two great Crofs-ftrcams of Water, and two 30 M -v^ New Difcovery of two Falls, with an me Hoping along the mid- dle of it. The Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do foam and boyl af- ter the moa hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous Noife, more ter- rible than that of Thunder; for when the Wind blows out of the South, their dif- mal roaring may be heard more than Fifteen Leagues off. The River Niagara havihg thrown it felf down this incredible Precepice , continues its impetuous courfe for two Leagues toge- ther, to the great Rock above-mention'd, with an inexpreffible rapidity: But having paft that, its impetuoftty relents, gliding a- long more gently for other two Leagues, till it arrive at the Lake Ontario or Frontenac. Any Bark or greater Veflel may pafs from the Fort to the foot of this huge Rock above- mention'd. This Rock lies to the Weftward, and is cut off from the Land by the River Niagara, about two Leagues farther down than the great Fall ; for which two Leagues the People are oblig'd to tranfport their Goods over-land ; but the way is very good ; and the Trees are but few, chiefly Firrs and Oaks. From the great Fall unto this Rock which is to theWeaof the River, the two Brinks of it are fo prodigious high, that it would make one tremble to look Readily upon the Water, rolling along with a rapidity not to be imagin'd. Were it not for this vaft Ca- taraa, which interrupts Navigation , they might fail with Barks or greater Veffels, more MM [the mid- [rom this [boyl af- iginable , lore ter- )r when their dif- n Fifteen m it felf :ontinues ues toge- lention'd, having liding a- igues, till ttenac. 5afs from ck above- Veftward, he River ler down Leagues eir Goods od ; and irrs and ck which Brinks it would ipon the y not to vaft Ca- 1 , they VelTcIs, more a Large Country in America. 3 1 more than Four hundred and fifty Leagues, croffing the Lake of Hurons, and reaching even to the farther end of the Lake Illinois ; which two Lakes we may eafily fay are little Seas of frelh Water. Sieur de la Salle had a defign to have built a Fort at the mouth of the River Niagara ; and might eafily have.compafs'd it, had he known how to keep himfelf within bounds, and to have confin'd himfelf there for one Year. His defign was to curb and keep under the Iroquois, And efpccially the Tfonnontouans, who are the moft numerous People, and the mod given to War of all that Nation. In fine, fuch a Fort as this might eafily have inter- rupted the Commerce betwixt thefe People and the Englijli ar,d Dutch in New- York. Their cuftom is to carry to New York the Skins of Elks, Beavers, and feveral forts of Beads, which they hunt and feek after fome 2 or 300 Leagues from their own home. Now they being ob- lig'd to pafs and repafs near to this mouth of the River Niagara , we might eafily ftop them by fair means in time of Peace, or by open force in time of War^ and thus ob- lige hem to turn their Commerce upon Ca- nada. But having rcmark'd that the Iroquois were pufli'd on to (lop the execution of this Defign, not fo much by the Englijh and Dutch, as by the Inhabitants of Canada, who for a great part cndcavour'd by all means to traverfe this our Difcovery; they contented themfelves to build a Houfe at the mouth of the River to the Eaftward, where the Place was natu- rally 32 A New Difcovery of rally fortifi'd. To one fide of this Houfc there is a very good Haven, where Ships may fafely ride; nay, by help of a Cap- ftane, they may eafily be hall'd upon Land. Befides, at this Place they take an infinite quantity of white Fi(h, Sturgeons, and all other forts of Fiflies, which are incomparably good and fweet ; infomuch that in the pro- per Seafon of Filhing, they might furnifli the greatea City in Europe with plenty of Fi(h. * CHAP. VIII. A Defcription of the Lake Eri6. THe Iroquois give to this Lake the Name of Erie Tejocharontiong, which extends it felf from Eaft to Weft perhaps a hundred and forty Leagaes in length. But no Eu- ropean has ever been over it all ; only I and thofe who accompany'd me in this Difco- very, have view'd the greater part of it, with a Veflel of Sixty Tun burden, which we caus'd to be made on purpofe, about two Leagues, above the fore-mention'd Fall of Niagara, as I (hall have occafion to obferve more largely hereafter. This Lake Erie, or Tejocharontiong, enclofes on its Southern Bank a Trad of Land as large as the Kingdom of France. It divides it felf at a certain place into two Channels, becaufe of a great Ifland enclos'd betwixt them: Thus continuing its courfe for four- teen lis Houfc ere Ships f a Cap- lon Land, in infinite I, and all )mparably I the pro- lit furnifli plenty of ri6. the Name :h extends a hundred jt no Eu- only I and his Difco- r it, with a we caus'd Leagues. Niagara, as ore largely tg, enclofes >f Land as It divides • Channels, 'd betwixt e for four- teen ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 55 The French army set our from Montreal on the Uiir- S th ^june. aJd reached IrondequoU on the sou h.n t T^v,. Ontario on the twelfth of July. Accora : rtrp et.tsr:;:ents.theco..anda„t^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ wUh the re-enforcements from the west, ^^^^^^^^l^^' ^uoit in the same hour with the div.s.on of ^e J--^^^ After laving waste the country in his course, ana taking fomir possession of some of the princ.pal villages If h! Seneca' De Nonville dispatched a detach-e^^^^^ to Fort Frontenac (Kingston), to communicate the resuU of ihe expedition, and with the rest of his force set out for N aZ on tie twenty-sixth, which he reached on the fhX h "in three days," -ys he, "the army had so fo t fied the post as to put it in a good condition of defense n ca!e of an assault." A detachment of one hundred nln left here, soon fell beneath the combined attacks of TsLse and the Senecas,and the post -^J^^^^^ De Nonville left Niagara on the second of Augu.t. La ^ Hontan was ordered to take a detachment of troops, and "company the Indian allies on their return to the west^ Rowrng up from the fort to Lewiston, they carried fhelr canoe's over the portage on the American side •and launched them again at S^^^f «V f f " r,,';' thev pushed their skiffs from the shore, when a thou- ^nd Iroouois" appeared on the river's bank. It was Tder thrterror of such a pursuit that La Hontan w.th three or four savages, left the main body to catch a hurried glimpse of that "fearful cataract" which, in his trep'ation, he describes as " seven or eight hundred feet hieh, and half a league broad." 'tLc facts of De Nonville's expedition are woven into W. H. C. Hosmer's beautiful poem of Yonnondio. * '■■■ <■ 56 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. TB^E TUSCAHOKAS The Tuscarora reservation is upon a mountain ridge in the town of Lewiston, about nine miles northeast of the Falls. Driven from their original seats in North Carolina by the aggressions of the whites, they migrated to New York in 1712, and became merged in the confederacy of the Iroquois. In the revolutionary war a part of them inclined to the English, and a part remained neutral. Such portions of the Tuscaroras and Oneidas as had been allies of the English in their flight from the total rout of Gen. Sullivan, embarked in canoes upon Oneida Lake, and down the Oswego River, coasl^ing along up Lake Ontario to the British garrison at Fort Niagara. In the spring, a part of them returned, and a part of them took possession of a mile square upon the mountain ridge^ given them by the Senecas. The Holland Com- pany afterward donated to them two square miles adjoin- . ing their reservation, and in 1804 they purchased of the company 4,329 acres, the aggregate of which several tracts is their present possessions. NIAGARA FRONTIER IN 1812. President Madison's proclamation of war threw the whole frontier into consternation. The pioneers, unpro- tected by a sufficient force, and dreading the treacherous warfare of the British Indians, were ready to abandon their homes to the tender mercies of the enemy. The strong positions of the Americans were Buffalo and Fort Niagara ; those of the British -vitn: Fort Erie and Fort George, a redoubt opposite Black Rock, a battery at Chippewa, another below the Falls, and the defenses on Queenston Heights. ItLUSTftATKD 0«I1)«. SI itain ridge in ■theast of the orth Carolina ated to New onfederacy of part of them ined neutral, eidas as had om the total upon Oneida ing along up Niagara. In part of them he mountain loUand Corn- miles adjoin- :hased of the rhich several ir threw the neers, unpro- e treacherous f to abandon snemy. The Palo and Fort Irie and Fort a battery at e defenses on On the eleventh of August, Major-General Van Rensse- laer, of the New York militia, established his head- quarters at Lewiston. On the thirteenth of October, he deter -omed to cross the river at Lewiston and take pos- session of Queenston Heights. The attempt was success- ful. Shortly after the occirpation. General Brock arrived with a re-enforcement of 600 troops, and in attempting to rally them after their first repulse, was killed. His aid- de-camp, McDonald, fell, likewise, by his side. Mean- while, the British having received another rc-enforcement, the undisciplined militia of Van Rensselaer's rear division, as they had not yet crossed the river, preferred to remain where they were, although they were obliged to see their gallant companions suffer a Mai defeat. This was the chief event on this frontier, in the campaign of i8i3. On the t venty-seventh of May, 1813, General Dearborn captured frc-m the British, Fort George, at Newark, near Niagara, at the mouth of the Niagara River. After the Briiish had withdrawn their regular force from the frontier, M'Clure, the American general in com- mand of Ft. George, wantonly burned the town of Newark, leaving its homeless inhabitants exposed to the inclem- ency of the season, evacuated the conquered territory, and returned to his own side of the river. But retribu- tion was at hand. The post evacuated by M'Clure was -soon occupied by Col. Murray with a force of five hun- dred British soldiers and Indians. Gen. M'Clure, feeling perfectly secure of Fort Niagara, took up his head-quarters at Buffalo. Col. Leonard, equally secure, slept in his own house three miles above the fort. Thus it was that the force of Murray, crossing the river before day-break, at a point about four miles above the fort, called the Five- s' ^ 1 58 ILLUSTRATED GUIDK mile Meadows, surprised the garrison, and tnade them- selves masters of the post. Indian scouts left the main body, like bloodhounds, to scent up their prey. The whole frontier was a scene of the most intense suffering. Lewiston, Niagara Falls, Black Rock and Buffalo fell an easy prey to the destroyer. All fled who could, the militia frequently leading the van. It was a motley throng flying from the torch and the tomahawk of an invading foe, with hardly the show of a military organization to cover the retreat. Buffalo was burned to the ground on the thirtieth of December. But the campaign of 1814 was destined to retrieve, as far as possible, the fortunes of this. The executive appointed Gen. Brown to the com- mand on this frontier, associating with him Winfield Scott, Gaines, Miller and others. Then followed a brill- iant succession of victories — the capture of Fort Erie, the battle of Chippewa, the battle of Lundy's Lane, and . finally, the greatest of all victories, peace. • RJSTROCESSION OF THE FALLS. The fact that in historic times, even within the memory of man, the fall has sensibly receded, prompts the ques- tion, how far has this recession gone ? At what point did the ledge which thus continually creeps backwards begin its retrograde course ? To minds disciplined in such researches the answer has been and will be, at the pre- cipitous declivity which crosses the Niagara from Lewis- ton on the American to Queenston on the Canadian side. Over this traverse barrier the affluents of all upper lakes once poured their waters, and here the work of erosion began. The dam, moreover, was demonstrably of suffi- "Tf made them- left the main prey. The :nse suffering. uffalo fell an lid, fAe militia throng flying invading foe, tion to cover ound on the of 1814 was fortunes of to the com- him Winfield lowed a brill- of Fort Erie, ^-'s Lane, and 1 the memory pts the ques- t what point )s backwards alined in such ;, at the pre- from Lewis- anadian side. I upper lakes ■k of erosion ibly of suffi. ILLVST R AT ED G U I D X. 59 cient height to cause the river above it to submerge Goat Island and this would perfectly account for the finding by Mr. Hall, Sir Charles Lyell, and others, in the sand and gravel of the island, the same fluviatile shells as are now found in the Niagara River higher up. It would also account for those deposits along the sides of the river, the discovery of which enabled Lyell, Hall and Ramsay to reduce to demonstration the popular belief that the Niagara once flowed through a shallow valley. The physics of the problem of excavation, which I made clear to my mind before quitting Niagara, are re- vealed by a close inspection of the present Horseshoe Fall. Here we see evidently that the greatest weight of water bends over the. very apex of the Horseshoe. In a passage in his excellent chapter on Niagara Falls, Mr. Hall alludes to this fact. Here we have the most copious and the most violent whirling of the shattered liquid; here the most nowerful eddies recoil against the shale. From this portion of the fall, indeed, the spray some- times rises without solution of continuity to the region of clouds, becoming gradually mere attenuated, and passing finally through the condition of true cloud into invisible vapor, which is sometimes re-precipitated higher up. All the phenomena point distinctly to the center of the river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from the center the vigor of the fall gradually dies away toward the sides. The horseshoe form, with the con- cavity facing downward, is an obvious and necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of the river the apex of the curve pushes its way backward, cutting, along the center a deep and comparatively nar-* TOW groovei and draining the sides as it passes thero I 6o ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. I' -J Hence the remarkable discrepancy between the widths of the Niagara above and below the Horseshoe. All along its course, from Lewiston Heights to the present position, the form of the fall was probably that of a horseshoe; for this is merely th ■ expression of the greater depth, and consequently greater excavating power, of the center of the river. The gorge, moreover, varies in width as the depth of the center of the ancient river varied, being narrowest where that depth was greatest. The vast comparative erosive energy of the Horse- shoe Fall comes strikingly into view when it and the American Fall are compared together. The American branch of the upper river is cut at a right angle by the gorge of the Niagara. Here the Horseshoe Fall was the real excavator. It cut the rock and formed the precipice ovtr which the American l-'all tumbles. But since its formation the ciosive action of the American Fall has been almost nil, while the Horseshoe has cut its way for five hundred yard; across th( end of Goat Island, and is now doubling back to excavate a channel parallel to the length of the island. This point, I have just learned, has not escaped the acute observatioi. of Prof. Ramsay. The river bends; the Horseshoe immediately accom- modates itself to the ben.iing, and will follow implicitly the dir'-ction of the deepest water in the upper stream. The flexibility of the fr-rge, if I may use the term, is determined by ilie flexibility of the river channel above it. Wer< the Niagara above the Fall sinuous, the gorge would immediately follow its sinuosities. Once sug- gested, no doubt geographers will be able to point out many Examples of this action. The Zambesi is thought to present a great difficulty to the erosion theory, because the widths seshoe. All the present |y that of a jion of the excavating e, moreover, the ancient depth was the Horse- it and the le American angle by the Fall was the the precipice Jut since its :an Fall has t its way for Island, and 1 parallel to just learned, rof. Ramsay, tely accom- w implicitly jper stream, the term, is annel above is, the gorge Once sug> o point out i is thought ary, because ILLUSTRATED OUIDK. 6i of the sinuosity of the chasm below the Victoria Falls. But as Miing the lasalt to be of tolerably uniform tex- ture, haa the river been examined before the formation of this sinuous channel, the present zig'ig course of the gorge below the Fall could, I am pursuaded, have been predicted, while the sounding of the present river would enable us to predict the course- to be pursued by the erosion ill the future. « But not only has the Niagara River cut the gorge— it has carried away the chips of its own workshop, The shair bei ig probably crumbled is easily carried away. Bui at the base of the Fall we find the huge boulders a' ready described, and by some means or other these are ic moved down the riv r. The ice which fills the gorge in vvinter, and which grapples with the boulders, has been regarded as the transporting agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts without ceasing on the abutting points of the bould&r, thus withdrawing their support and urging them down the river. Solution also does its portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down is proved by the difference of depth between the Niagara River and Lake Ontario, where the river enters it. The depth falls from seventy-two ftet to twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of solid matter ' .insed by the diminished motion of the river. Near th< mouth of the gorge at Queenston, the depth, according to the Admiralty Chart is r8o feet; well within the gorge it is 132 feet. In conclusion we may say a word regarding the proxi- mate future of Niagara. At the rate oi exca .tion assigned to it by Sir Charles Lyell, namely, a foot a year, five thousand years or so will carry the Hfirseshoe Fall far higher than Goat Island, As the gorge recedes it will It ! m i''i""V',i''',#'' 6$ ILLUSTRATED OUIDR. drain, as it has hitherto done, the banks rigiit and let^ of it, thus leaving nearly a level terrace between (roat Island and the edge of the gorge. Higher up ii will totally drain the American branch of the river, the chan- nel of which will in due time become cultivable land. The American Fall will then be transformed into a dry precipice, forming a simple continuation of the cliffy boundary of the Niagara. At the place occupied by the Fall at this moment we shall have the gorge inclosing a right angle, a second whirlpool being the consequence of this. To those who visit Niagara a few milleniums hence I leave the verifi' ation of this prediction. All that can be said is, that if the causes now in action continue to act, it will prove itself literally true.* I HACK MEN AND CUIDES. Complaints are frequently made by rtrangers of being outrageously gulled l)y hackmen and guides. This com- plaint is a general one, and there is no reason for making it with peculiar emphasis at Niagara. The experienced tourist will always settle the price beforehand, and so avoid any unpleasant scene at the end of his trip. This pre- caution, so regularly observed in all other matters, should not be omitted in this: the priie of a thing should be known before we engage io pay for it. The usual charge for carriages is two dollars an hour. The compensation for the service of guides is less definitely fixed. Other complaints of a less specific character are also often made, such as, " a quarter is demanded at every corner," etc. The truth is, no more money is asked here than else- • The articU on the " Retroccwion of the Felli," wei written by Profetior Tyndall, afker a vUic lo tbU place. n.:J left of ■n strongly, they struck out for the rocks on the other side, which, could they have reached, would have afforded a vantage ground from which successful efforts could have been made to reach a place of safety. Desperately the brave man labored to save her for whom he had ventured his life, but the remorseless current rapidly carried them down and out from shore, further and further, into the river, he swimming on iiis back and supporting her until suddenly they were parted. Those who were watching' the scene, unable to render any assistance, say that Miss Lottie, who had one hand on his shoulder and evidently felt that both could not be saved, and that he might save himself if not burthened with her, suddenly pushed him from her, and, throwing up her arms despairingly above her head, sank below the surface and disappeared from sight. Quick as thought the noble man turned and dived ^ for the sinking girl. A cloud of mist hid the scene of disaster for a moment and when the horror-stricken wit- I i I ; I ■ I ■- 1 I '■i 70 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 0' nesses next looked for their loved ones the angry waters gave no sign of the tragedy just enacted. Both bodies were subsequently recovered at the Whirlpool. Since that time Niagara has had several victims, two of which were unmistakably suicides ; the last being a young man, unknown, respectably dressed, who, after paying his fare at the Prospect Park gate and passing a few rods down the bank of the river, deliberately waded in and swam towards the awful brink. He was supposed to be a school-teacher, as from his description a man said he believed it was his brother who had left home a few days before. The above list is but a partial one of known victims. The number of those unfortunates who have taken the fatal plunge at night,, unseen save by the "Eye that sieepeth not," can never be ascertained. Many have stated that when looking down from the brink into the tremendous chasm, an almost irresistible impulse beset them to leap into the fearful flood. We have never heard this explained, and why such a feeling should possess the mind is beyond our comprehension, though certain it is that such a feeling does exist in the minds of many. < rj/E VILLAGE OF NIAGARA FALLS. The village of Niagara Falls contains a population of 3,700. It boasts of several hotels, large stores, churches to the number of six (one unfinished), and has one of the largest paper mills in the State, a pulp mill, cabinet and carpenter shops, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, and every- thing in fact that a much larger place often lacks. The churches, which should come first on the list, are the Baptist, Episcopal, Methodist, Presbyterian and ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 7» ngry waters )oth bodies tims, two of ing a young r paying his a few rods ded in and osed to be a I an said he ; a few days )wn victims. e taken the "Eye that m from the t irresistible flood. We ich a feeling iprehension, exist in the LS. opulation of es, churches s one of the cabinet and and every- icks. on the list, tyterian and I I Roman Catholic. Of these the oldest is the Presbyterian, and the latest, finished and occupied, the Methodist, although the new building, not yet completed, of the Episcopalians, is the last. Of the hotels, suffice it to say they are quite up to the mark and range from a first-class hotel to i. third or fourth rate, and their charges per diem vary from $«.oo to $4.50. The principal of these hotels are to be found on Main street, viz., the Cataract and International. The Spencer House, directly opposite the N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. Depot, on Falls street, and the Niagara House, on Main street, are the only first-class hotels open all the year round. The main business street of the village is Falls street, down vhich the visitor goes on his way to the great cataract ; on this street may be found hardware, dry goods, and almost all the business of the place; the post-office is located about the center of the street, and at its foot may be seen the new Soldiers'. Monument. In summer time the streets present quite an animated appearance ; they are broad and well kept, and abound in fine sh le trees; especially may this be said of First street, on which four of the six churches are situated in close proximity to each other. Buffalo street contains some fine residences, on this street may be seen the homes of the Porter family, the proprietors of Goat Island. The residence of the late Col. Porter, and also that of his son, stand side by side on this street. There are two railway dtpots : one is the N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R., on Falls street; the other, the Erie, is some half-mile further, on Erie street. Carriages in abundance may be procured at either of these depots or at the hotels. Omnibusses run from each hotel, with porters, to each train, arriving or departing. Should the visitor have . . J«p*^'*«{jfl!>^ -'*\fc. ,. ^ 7» ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. any objection to staying at a hotel, private boarding houses abound, whose charges vary from $6.00 to $10.00 per week. As a whole, the charge for living at the Falls will com- pare very favorably with any other watering place in the United States. In addition to the above hotels, there are, on the Canada side of the river, the Clifton House, Prospect House, Front View House and Victoria Hall Hotel. _ , . ,.., J!A TES OF TOLL. Goat Island ^ .50 Cave of the Winds j . 00 Prospect Park ^ . je Inclined Railway 25 Shadow of the Rock i.on New Suspension Bridge 25 Ferry 25 Behind Sheet of Water (Table Rock) i .00 Burning Spring , 50 Railway Bridge over and back 50 Whirlpool Rapids 50 Whirlpool 50 ^=\,. ivate boarding ^6.00 to $10.00 Falls will com- ig place in the e hotels, there Clifton House, Victoria Hall I .50 1. 00 . as • 25 1. 00 •as •as 1. 00 .50 .50 •so .50