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 JUN 1922 
 

 
 THJE BAILEY ©Bt IHOWTM M&HHT-EI01USE. 
 
PICTURESQUE SCENERY 
 IN IRELAND 
 
 DRAWN BY THOMAS CRESWICK, R.A. 
 
 ENGRA VED ON STEEL 
 
 WITH 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE JOTTINGS BY A TOURIST 
 
 NEW YORK 
 R. WORTHINGTON, 770, BROADWAY 
 
 1881 
 
Til 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 TART I.— LEINSTER. 
 
 DUBLIN. 
 
 City of Dublin and its Environs — Howth : the Abbey and College ; the Castle ; 
 Hill of Howth; the Lighthouse; the Harbour — Islands of Ireland's Eye and 
 Lambay — Malahide — Swords — -Kingstown : the Harbour — Dalkey — Dalkey 
 and Dalkey Island— Killiney Hill 
 
 PAGE 
 
 WICKLOW. 
 
 "The Scalp" — Enniskerry — Bray — Glen of the Dargle — Lover's Leap — Powers- 
 court — Powerscourt Waterfall — Loughs Bray— Glen of the Downs — Sugar- 
 loaf Mountain — Delgany — Newtown Mount Kennedy — The Devil's Glen — 
 Rosanna — Pass of Dunran — Roundwdod — Luggelaw— Lough Bay — Lough 
 Dan — Glendalough — Ruins of the Seven Churches — St. Kevin's Bed — Legend 
 of the Saint and Kathleen — Glenmalure — "Meeting of the Waters" — Vale 
 of Ovoca — Arklow ............ 
 
 12 
 
 PART II— MUNSTER. 
 
 CORK AND WATERFORD. 
 
 County Cork : its Coast Line — Bantry Bay — Cork Harbour — Haulbowline, Spike, 
 and Rocky Island — Queenstown — Black Rock Castle — City of Cork — Ros- 
 tellan Castle — Castle Mary — Cloyne — Blarney : its Castle — The Blarney 
 Stone — Youghal — The River Blackwatcr : Objects of Interest on its Banks 
 ■ — Cappoquin — Lismorc ; its Castle and Grounds — Mount Mclleray Abbey 
 
 3021 
 
 3o 
 
iv CONTENTS. 
 
 KERRY. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Routes to Killarney — Bantry — Glengariff — Kenmare— Lough Allua— Gougane 
 Barra — Pass of Keimaneigli — Killarney : General Description of the Lakes — ■ 
 The Upper Lake — The Long Range — The Middle Lake — Tore Mountain — 
 Muekross Abbey — The Lower Lake — Aghadoe— Gap of Dunloe — Black Valley 
 — Macgillieuddy's Reeks — Mangerton Mountain — Glen of the Horse — Lough 
 Guitane 49 
 
 LIMERICK AND CLARE. 
 
 Limerick City — The Cathedral — The Castle— The Upper Shannon — Falls of 
 Doonas — Castle-Connel — Killaloe — Lough Derg — The Lower Shannon — 
 Ennis — Foynes — Tarbert— Scattery Island — Kilrush — Kilkee — Cave of Kilkee 
 — Puffing Rock — Ross Bridges — Coast-line, County Clare— Hag's Head — 
 Cliffs of Moher 
 
 PART III— ULSTER. 
 
 FERMANAGH, DONEGAL, AND LONDONDERRY. 
 
 The North of Ireland — Enniskillen — Loftgh Erne : its Islands, Ruins, and general 
 f oatures — County Fermanagh — Ballyshannon — The Salmon-leap — Bundoran 
 — County Donegal — Kilbarron Castle — The "Pullins" Gap — Lough Derg: 
 Station Island and St. Patrick's Purgatory — Donegal Town, Castle, and 
 Abbey — Mount Charles — Lough Esk — Pass of Barnes — Lough Mourne — 
 Curious method of pike-fishing — Stranorlar to Strabane— Londonderry — 
 Coleraine ............. 89 
 
 ANTRIM AND ARMAGH. 
 
 Tortrush — The White Rocks — Dunluce Castle — Portcoon and Dunkerry Caves — 
 The Steucans — The Causeways : Little, Middle, and Great — Giant's Gateway 
 and Loom — Giant's Organ — Portnoffer Bay — Giant's Amphitheatre — Giant's 
 Chimney -tops — rort-na-Spania — The Pleaskin — Bengore Head — Portmoon 
 Bay — The Stack — Dunseverick Castle — Carrick-a-Rede — Kenbane Head — 
 Ballycastle— Rathlin Island— "The Grey Man's Path "—Fair Head— Cushen- 
 (1 1 m — Cushcndall — Glenariff — Garron Tower — Glenarm — Larne — " Island 
 Magee " — Carrickf ergus — Belfast — Armagh — Conclusion .... 105 
 
LIST OF STEEL ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 light-house at howth, dublin 
 
 Town of Enniskerry, "Wicklow 
 
 powerscourt avaterfall, wlcklow .... 
 
 LuGGELAW, OR LoUGH TaY, WlCKLOW .... 
 
 Glendalough : Ruins of the Seven Churches . 
 Bantry Bay, Cork ....... 
 
 Lismore Castle, Waterford ..... 
 
 Torc Mountain, from Dinis Island, Killarney 
 
 Lower Lake, Killarney 
 
 The Gap of Dunloe, Killarney 
 
 Comme Dhuv, "the Black Valley" .... 
 
 Falls of Doonas, Rapids of the Shannon, Castle-Connel 
 klllaloe on the shannon ...... 
 
 The Lower Lough Erne, Fermanagh 
 Ballyshannon, Donegal ...... 
 
 Donegal Castle 
 
 Dunluce Castle, Antrim 
 
 Promontory of Fair Head, Antrim .... 
 
 Castle of Caiuuckfergus, Antrim 
 
 ( ity of Armagh 
 
 Page 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 To face page 13 
 16 
 21 
 24 
 35 
 ■11 
 56 
 59 
 
 67 
 
 69 
 
 78 
 
 SI 
 
 00 
 
 93 
 
 99 
 
 106 
 
 115 
 
 118 
 
 122 
 
INTBODUCTOKY. 
 
 TN these days of overtaxed mental and bodily powers change of 
 air has become a matter of prudence. To dwellers in crowded 
 cities, the annual holiday means something more than idle recreation 
 — it involves restoring exhausted nature, and possibly preventing 
 disease. To such the question, "Where shall we go?" is an im- 
 portant one. True, there are those time-honoured spots at the 
 mouth of the Thames, and on the South Coast, dear to our 
 childhood. On their shores our cheeks grew rounder and ruddier, 
 as we made sand-pies or constructed docks and batteries with the 
 same unstable materials : Mamma, happy in our happiness, smil- 
 ingly observant of our proceedings as she stitched away in the 
 welcome shade cast by a boat or a bathing-machine ; while the 
 advent of Paterfamilias at the end of the week, for a few days, 
 completed the domestic idyl. 
 
 Against these revered spots — although some of them are 
 strangely deficient in picturesque scenery — we havo nothing to 
 
viii INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 say. Peace be to their sands ! Their long-continued popularity is 
 conclusive evidence that to families, at all events, they afford the 
 required accommodation. But young men, and others who have 
 not yet assumed the responsibility of parents, might do better 
 than pass their holiday, year after year, on a belt of sand, or 
 shingle, of about the dimensions of a good-sized bowling-green. 
 By going farther afield they would secure the advantages of 
 thorough change of air and scene, and that at but a slight 
 increased expenditure of time and money. 
 
 To urge the claims of Ireland as a profitable field for the 
 Tourist is the main object of these pages. The sister country 
 abounds in varied and beautiful scenery, the people are most 
 interesting, and the air is mild yet invigorating ; while the rail- 
 roads are so conveniently laid that trips can be taken with great 
 expedition from one point of interest to another. To these advan- 
 tages may be added, that travelling and hotel expenses are cheaper 
 in Ireland than they are in England. 
 
 This little work is not merely designed as a Tourist's Guide-book to 
 Ireland, laying down plans for specified routes, with hotel expenses, 
 elaborate descriptions of public buildings, statistics, &c. Many 
 admirable works of that kind already exist, which may be consulted 
 by the visitor with great advantage ; but these books naturally 
 present few attractions to the general reader. What is aimed at in 
 these pages is to supply, by a series of high-class Steel Engravings, 
 representative examples of the Scenery of Ireland ; and to pro- 
 duce a book which may also serve as a pleasant souvenir of 
 
INTRODUCTORY. ix 
 
 the Tourist's visit. Without the aid of pictorial embellishment 
 the present task would never have been undertaken : by its means, 
 it is believed, the work will find favour with the public, and may 
 stimulate the curiosity of many to see in reality what is here so 
 ably pictured. As a guarantee of the excellence of the Illustra- 
 tions, it may be added the Plates were engraved from Drawings 
 by that eminent landscape painter, Mr. T. Creswick, K.A. . 
 
 The work has been divided into Three Parts, each Part devoted 
 to a popular portion of the country usually visited by Tourists. 
 The western Province of Connaught^ not being much visited by 
 the class of excursionists to whom this book is principally 
 addressed, is not dwelt on. Although it has not been deemed 
 desirable to lay down rigidly defined routes, a systematic pro- 
 gression from place to place has been adopted, in connection with 
 the railway system of the country. The routes indicated in these 
 pages can, of course, be modified to suit the convenience of the 
 traveller. 
 
 It is possible — but not desirable — for the Tourist to visit all 
 three Provinces in a fortnight, briefly viewing the chief objects of 
 interest ; but it will be found far more pleasant and profitable to 
 confine himself to one or two parts of the island at a time. On a 
 first visit, Dublin and its environs, with the Wicklow Mountains, 
 might be taken ; on a second, Killarney and the south of Ireland ; 
 on a third, Belfast and the north of Ireland, with the Giant's 
 Causeway ; on a fourth, Gal way and Connemara, with the west of 
 Ireland. The Tourist with a fortnight's holiday might well take 
 
 6 
 
x INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 the east and the north of the island at one trip, or the south and 
 the west. 
 
 In the season, Tourist Tickets are issued on favourable terms 
 by the railway companies, and the arrangements are made with 
 considerable ingenuity to suit the convenience of all classes. 
 Perhaps it will be as well to hint that the shortest sea route, via 
 Holyhead, should always be adopted if possible, as the Irish Sea is 
 apt to be very trying to indifferent sailors. 
 
PAKT L— LEINSTEE. 
 
 DUBLIN AND WICKLOW. 
 
 B 
 
DUBLIN. 
 
 City of Dublin and its Environs— Howth : the Abbey and College ; the Castle ; Hill of 
 Howth; the Lighthouse; the Harbour— Islands of Ireland's Eye and Lambay — 
 Malahide — Swords — Kingstown : the Harbour — Dalkey — Dalkey and Dalkey Island 
 — Killincy Hill. 
 
 rpHERE are few cities in the world so auspiciously situated as 
 the metropolis of Ireland. It is intersected by the river 
 Liffey, which flows from west to east, and discharges itself into 
 the noble bay, which is guarded on the one side by the Hill of 
 Howth, and on the other by Killiney Hill, near Kingstown. 
 Fresh breezes from the ocean and the hills contribute to keep it 
 healthy ; while the most lovely scenery is within an hour's walk 
 of its crowded streets. This fine city extends more than three 
 miles in length, in a direct line from east to west, and is nearly 
 of equal extent from north to south. It is encompassed by a 
 " Circular Road," in extent about nine Irish miles. The river 
 Liffey is navigable as far as Carlisle Bridge, in the centre of the 
 town. It would be difficult to find in any city a more magnificent 
 view than can be obtained from the centre of this bridge on a fine 
 
 summer s morning. 
 
 Dublin contains many fine buildings, but descriptions of these 
 structures are rarely interesting. The tourist who has little time 
 
 B -2 
 
4 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 to spare is recommended to hire a car for a few hours, and allow 
 the driver to act as guide to the leading objects of interest. This 
 will probably be the visitor's first experience of locomotion by 
 means of the Irish car. They are of three kinds : the " covered 
 car," the " inside " jaunting car, and the " outside " car. The 
 latter are more generally used, in which the travellers sit back to 
 back, with their legs outside the wheels. This style of transit has 
 been appropriately designated "travelling edgeways," and has been 
 objected to as giving the traveller a " one-sided view of things." 
 However, when the fear is overcome of having your legs chopped off 
 at the knees by every passing vehicle, these conveyances are found 
 to be safe and pleasant. The neatly constructed cars to be met 
 with in Dublin and other large cities bear little resemblance to the 
 " low-back cars " in use in the more rural districts. The car- 
 dvivers are a genus in themselves, wherever met with. Like all 
 Irishmen, they are mostly quaint and witty, with that peculiar sly 
 humour so eminently Irish. 
 
 A few of the leading public buildings which ornament the city 
 may be briefly noticed. The Bank of Ireland, in College Green, 
 formerly used as the Parliament House, is an elegant edifice, 
 built of Portland stone. Trinity College is situated opposite 
 the Bank, with which its architectural beauty harmonizes. 
 Dublin Castle, the residence of the Viceroy, is by no means an 
 imposing structure as seen from the street ; it is, however, of great 
 antiquity. The Four Courts, College of Surgeons, Post Office, 
 Barracks, &c, are all handsome, chiefly of Grecian architecture. 
 The Custom House is a truly noble pile, the principal front facing 
 the river. 
 
 Many of the churches in Dublin are of great antiquity, and 
 
LEINSTER. 5 
 
 also interesting from historical associations. Christ's Church 
 Cathedral is said to have been first erected in 1038. The church, 
 however, as it now stands, is of comparatively modern date. It 
 was in this cathedral that the Church Liturgy was first read in 
 Ireland in the English tongue. In the nave are to be seen many 
 ancient monuments of great beauty and interest. St. Patrick 
 erected a place of worship near the well in which he baptized his 
 converts : this is said to be on the site of the Cathedral of St. 
 Patrick. There is evidence that the original pile existed in 890 ; 
 but the present building was begun in 1190. Swift was Dean of 
 this cathedral, and marble slabs mark his resting-place and that of 
 the "Stella" of his poetry. The cathedral has been entirely restored 
 since 1860, at the sole cost of the late Sir B. L. Guinness, who 
 expended the princely sum of upwards of £140,000 upon it. 
 
 Of monumental adornments, the chief are Nelson's Monument, 
 the Wellington Testimonial, and the statue to the memory of the 
 poet Moore. The Nelson Monument is a fluted column 121 feet 
 high, surmounted by a statue of the naval hero. From the 
 summit a most extensive and delightful panoramic view of the 
 city and surrounding country is obtained. The Wellington Tes- 
 timonial Avas erected by his fellow-townsmen of Dublin at a 
 cost of £20,000. It consists of a quadrangular truncated 
 obelisk, of Wicklow granite. Sunken panels contain relievos in 
 metal, one of them representing the Duke himself being crowned 
 with laurel. Of this Testimonial the volatile Oxonian Tourist 
 remarks — " The names of his great battles are graven on the 
 obelisk, Waterloo being, of course, omitted. . I say ' of course,' 
 because there is something so delightfully Irish in this small 
 oversight, that it seems quite natural and appropriate ; and I 
 
6 SCENERF IN IRELAND. 
 
 « 
 
 should as little dream of being surprised or vexed by it, as if in 
 
 an Irish edition of Milton I could find no ' Paradise Lost.' 
 
 The poet Moore was also a Dublin man, of whom the citizens 
 
 are justly proud. His statue is situated at the top of College 
 
 Street, fronting the grand portico of the Bank. He was born in 
 
 a queer-looking old house, No. 12, Aungier Street. 
 
 The Glasnevin Botanical Gardens are well worth a visit. They 
 comprise about forty-three acres of ground. Their fine undulating 
 surface, through which the clear waters of the Tolka flow, is 
 elegantly laid out, and shaded by overhanging trees ; while the 
 intersecting walks are adorned with numerous shrubs and beauti- 
 ful flowers. In the splendid conservatories are to be seen a vast 
 variety of rare and valuable trees and plants, native and exotic. 
 The ground formerly belonged to the poet Tickell, who came to 
 Ireland with Addison, when the latter was secretary to Lord Sun- 
 derland. One of the walks in the grounds is named " Addison's 
 Walk." It is generally admitted that for extent and beauty these 
 Gardens are second to none in Europe. 
 
 Phoenix Park should also be seen. It is the most extensive 
 public park in the kingdom, containing some 1,750 acres of green 
 sward and trees, with plenty of deer. From its extent — being 
 seven miles in circumference — it would be advisable for the tourist 
 to take a car, and the driver will point out the several beautiful 
 views which can be obtained from various parts. In addition to 
 its lakes, romantic glens, shady walks, and pleasing retreats, the 
 Park possesses many other objects of interest. Near the entrance 
 is the Wellington Testimonial, already noticed ; the Carlisle 
 Memorial Statue, the Military Hospital, the Zoological Gardens, 
 &c, are also within the Park. 
 
LE1NSTER. 7 
 
 Having briefly indicated a few of the prominent features in the 
 city, the environs of Dublin will now be noticed. Those who have 
 time, and are fond of systematic sight-seeing, will do well to pro- 
 vide themselves with Black's " Guide to Ireland," which is cheap 
 and reliable. 
 
 The tourist who is desirous to make himself acquainted with 
 the beauties of the renowned Bay of Dublin should pay a visit to 
 Howth and the other small towns which lie north of the city, to 
 which the Drogheda Railway furnishes cheap and speedy conveyance. 
 
 The views, both coastwise and inland, as the train sweeps 
 round the north side of the Bay, are very beautiful. Marino, the 
 classical seat of the Earl of Charlemont, is soon passed. The 
 demesne, which is liberally thrown open for public inspection, is 
 laid out with great taste, and contains an exquisite Doric temple. 
 The memorable plain of Clontarf lies to the left, famous as the 
 scene of Brian Boroimhe's last victory over the Danes. As the 
 promontory of Howth is approached, the shores become bold and 
 rugged, but picturesque. The peninsula, or, as it is usually 
 called, the Hill of Howth, jutting into the sea, forms the northern 
 headland of Dublin Bay, and the little town and harbour, with 
 the Castle of Howth, are pleasantly situated under the shelter of 
 the Hill, which rises precipitously behind them. 
 
 On an elevation overhanging the sea are situated the venerable 
 remains of Howth Abbey, within the ancient churchyard. The 
 church affords an index of the general state of society at its erec- 
 tion : it was constructed for defence as well as for devotion, being 
 surrounded by a strong embattled wall. Tradition states that its 
 foundations were laid by the St. Lawrences early in the thirteenth 
 century. Over the western dot)]- is a ruined belfry. The bells 
 
8 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 which formerly belonged to the abbey are now preserved in 
 Howth Castle ; they were discovered by accident. When the 
 new church was built, it became necessary to provide a bell for it : 
 some one called to mind a tradition that the old bells existed 
 somewhere about the Castle. They were sought for and found, 
 where they had lain for some two hundred years. 
 
 Of the so-called College of Howth there are also some remains, 
 close to the burial ground of the Abbey. They consist of a hall, 
 a kitchen, and a few cells, which afford shelter to several poor 
 families. The ruins of another building — a small oratory dedicated 
 to St. Fenton — exist a little to the west of the Castle. Besides 
 these remains, several others are observed on different parts of 
 the Hill ; the ground being peculiarly rich in historic and tradi- 
 tionary associations. 
 
 Howth Castle is the family seat of the St. Lawrences, who have 
 held it since the time of their ancestor, Sir Amorey Tristram 
 . de Valence, who landed here in the twelfth century. The Castle, 
 which has been altered at various periods, and was in a great 
 measure rebuilt in the sixteenth century, is a fine old structure. 
 It displays a long battlemented front, flanked by towers. A sin- 
 gular legend is connected with this Castle. In 1575 the celebrated 
 Grana Uile, or Grace O'Malley, on her return from a visit to Queen 
 Elizabeth, landed at Howth, and proceeded to the Castle ; but 
 feeling indignant at finding the gates closed, as was the custom 
 of the family during the hour of dinner, she, on her departure, 
 seized the young heir of St. Lawrence, then at nurse near the sea- 
 shore, and carried him off a prisoner to her castle. He was 
 ultimately released, on his father pledging his word that on no 
 pretence whatever should the gates of the Castle be closed at the 
 
LEINSTER. 9 
 
 hour of dinner. This promise was most faithfully kept up to a 
 very recent date. A painting of this incident is preserved in the 
 dining-room. The demesne and pleasure-grounds, enriched with 
 fine plantations, are very beautiful, and on the occasions when 
 they are thrown open to the public are largely attended. 
 
 Proceeding in a southerly direction from the ruins of the 
 ancient Abbey, the tourist will arrive at the highest parts of the 
 Hill of Howth, properly so called, which are nearly 580 feet above 
 the level of the sea. At the eastern extremities of these heights 
 is the old lighthouse, for some years disused, as, from its great 
 elevation, it was often involved in clouds and mist. In the 
 splendid views which can be obtained from this and the neigh 
 bouring heights are included the varied and picturesque mountains 
 of Dublin and Wicklow on the south and west, and on the north 
 the mountains of Mourne, at a distance of forty miles. More 
 immediately off the coast are seen the islands of Lambay and 
 Ireland's Eye. 
 
 Immediately south of this eminence, and up wards of 400 feet 
 beneath it, on the summit of a small rock, called from its verdure 
 " The Green Bailey," is seen the Howth Lighthouse. It was 
 erected by the Ballast Board of Dublin in 1814. The light is 
 110 feet above the level of the sea, and is visible at a distance of 
 seventeen nautical miles in clear weather. As will be seen from 
 the engraving,* the appearance of the lighthouse is very striking, 
 standing out as it does on what seems to be an insulated rock. 
 
 The Harbour of Howth was constructed by the celebrated 
 engineer, John Ronnie, and was intended as a station for the 
 Dublin packets. The shifting sands of the coast, however, soon 
 
 * See Frontispiece. 
 
io SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 rendered the harbour impracticable, and it has been entirely 
 superseded by Kingstown Harbour. Opposite Howth is the 
 charming rocky island known as Ireland's Eye, and beyond it the 
 renowned Isle of Lambay. 
 
 Another object of attraction in the neighbourhood of Dublin is 
 Malahide. This village (nine miles from Dublin) is much resorted 
 to for sea-bathing. Here is Malahide Castle, the fine baronial 
 residence of Lord Talbot de Malahide. Among the most striking 
 of the several apartments is the grand hall, with a vaulted roof of 
 oak timber. The grounds are studded with groups of fine trees, 
 and the sea-view which is obtained from the Castle is much prized 
 by visitors. 
 
 About three miles to the west of Malahide is the small but 
 ancient town of Swords. The combination of ruins at this place 
 is very curious and interesting. 
 
 Having noticed a few of the northern environs of Dublin, 
 several interesting spots south of the city will now be visited. 
 Among the many beautiful places in the neighbourhood of Dublin 
 is Kingstown. The tourist to Ireland via Holyhead lands at 
 Kingstown Quay, whence the journey to Dublin, by car or rail- 
 way, is most interesting. The construction of its splendid arti- 
 ficial harbour — one of the finest in the kingdom — was the first 
 and great step for the prosperity of the town. The granite of 
 which it is composed was quarried in the adjoining hill of Killiney. 
 An obelisk commemorates the visit of George IV. to Ireland in 
 1821, since which period Kingstown has been gradually rising 
 into a most charming watering-place. Previous to this visit it 
 was known merely as the fishing village of Dunleary. 
 
 Two miles farther is the pleasant town of Dalkey, with its 
 
LEINSTER. 
 
 1 1 
 
 hoary castellated ruins. This place was anciently of some im- 
 portance. Dalkey Island, long used as a place of popular resort 
 by the citizens of Dublin, is separated from the mainland by a 
 channel called Dalkey Sound, which is about eight fathoms deep. 
 
 Killiney Hill is situated close to Dalkey, and is a noticeable 
 feature in the landscape. From the highest point of the range, 
 a panorama of surpassing beauty is unfolded. An enthusiastic 
 visitor says : — " The view from the Hill of Killiney is one of the 
 loveliest in this land of loveliness. Seated among the purple and 
 golden flowers, you look over its rocks and trees upon the noble 
 Bay of Dublin, with its waters ' bickering in the noontide blaze,' 
 and the stately ships gliding to and fro. Below is Kingstown, 
 opposite the old Hill of Howth, and in the centre the metropolis 
 of Ireland." 
 
 The more prominent features in the scenery of this part of the 
 county have been briefly noticed ; the neighbourhood would 
 supply abundant materials for a topographical volume : for the 
 geologist, botanist, naturalist, and antiquary, it has an ample store 
 of attractions. If the tourist were to confine himself to this county 
 alone, he might spend a pleasant and profitable holiday. 
 
WICKLOW. 
 
 "The Scalp" — Enniskerry — Bray— Glen of the Dargle — Lover's Leap— Powerscourt — 
 Powerscourt Waterfall — Loughs Bray — Glen of the Downs — Sugar-loaf Mountain 
 — Delgany — Newtown Mount Kennedy — The Devil's Glen — Rosanna — Pass of 
 Dunran — Eoundwood — Luggelaw — Lough Tay — Lough Dan — Glendalough — Ruins 
 of the Seven Churches — St. Kevin's Bed — Legend of the Saint and Kathleen — 
 Glemnalure — "Meeting of the Waters" — Vale of Ovoca — Arklow. 
 
 npHE celebrated county of Wicklow lias justly been called the 
 "Garden of Ireland." " There may be seen lakes of Alpine 
 beauty ; streams that wind through quiet dells, or roll their spark- 
 ling waters down rugged precipices ; deep glens and sombre 
 ravines, where the dark mountain shadows make twilight of the 
 summer noon ; mountains whose bare and craggy peaks seem to 
 pierce the clouds ; romantic woods and picturesque glades, with 
 fertile, and warm, and pleasant valleys." These sylvan beauties 
 have been considerably enhanced in interest by the fairy tales and 
 grotesque legends connected with them, and which Mr. Grofton 
 Croker has displayed so much skill in collecting. Not less for- 
 tunate has Ireland been in her lyric authors, chief of whom is 
 Thomas Moore. One of his most exquisite poems is connected 
 with the Vale of Ovoca, which we are about to visit ; and another 
 of the " Melodies " commemorates a romantic legend of Lake 
 
: -■'■'■ \ 
 
 
 ■ I . 
 
LEINSTER. 1 3 
 
 Glendalougli. The nearest point of this veritable fairy-land is 
 but thirteen miles from Dublin ; the leading objects of interest 
 in Wicldow may be seen in two or three days. 
 
 By the Enniskerry road the county is entered at " The Scalp," a 
 chasm in the mountain which separates it from the county of 
 Dublin. The sides of this singular defile are covered with huge 
 masses of disjointed granite, which look as if a gust of wind would 
 send them toppling down on the traveller. In the winter season, 
 or after heavy rains, some of these loosened crags are precipitated 
 to the bottom of the ravine, from whence they are removed with 
 considerable labour. The road gradually slopes until the pretty 
 town of Enniskerky, entered by a bridge over the river Kerry, 
 is seen picturesquely situated in a deep valley beneath. This 
 town may be considered the threshold of the beauties of Wicklow. 
 
 The tourist, however, will probably enter the county by the 
 Dublin and Wicklow Railway, alighting at Bray, from whence he 
 may make excursions to places of interest in the neighbourhood. 
 This town, always a brisk business little place, has risen rapidly 
 into importance as a summer resort for the citizens of Dublin. 
 The opening of the railway has doubtless conferred great advan- 
 tages on the town ; as, from its proximity to the Dargle, 
 the Glen of the Downs, and the Devil's Glen, it has become an 
 important station for tourists. There is a fine esplanade, 
 about a mile in length, extending to the base of Bray Head 
 on the south, and forming a delightful promenade for the in- 
 habitants and the numerous visitors to this rising and delightful 
 watering-place. 
 
 There are many noble seats close to Bray. About a mile south 
 of the town is Kilruddery, the noble mansion of the Earl of Meath, 
 
H SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 built in the Elizabethan style, and situated in beautiful grounds 
 and park. The demesne is finely located between the Little 
 Sugar-loaf Mountain and the bold, rugged heights of Bray Head. 
 In proceeding from Bray to the Dargle, the tourist will meet with 
 Hollybrooke House, another Elizabethan mansion, the residence of 
 Sir G. F. Hodson, Bart. This fine demesne, which is open to 
 visitors, is delightfully placed between the two Sugar-loaves. Bray 
 Head is situated some distance from the town ; from it a most 
 lovely view is obtained. 
 
 Soon after leaving Bray, the Dargle is entered on foot, and 
 followed to Enniskerry and Powerscourt. The Glen of the Dargle 
 is much frequented by the citizens of Dublin, and in the summer 
 season it can be rarely visited without meeting happy groups in 
 various parts of the Glen, which is about a mile in length. Some 
 portions of the ravine are of great depth ; the hills on either side 
 beautifully clothed with native wildwood and graceful fern. The 
 view of the Glen from above is exceedingly beautiful, exhibiting a 
 rare combination of rugged rock, with foliage of every tint and 
 form. The river which flows through it is inconsiderable, but 
 large enough to give life and spirit to the scene as it leaps from 
 rock to rock. About midway in the Glen, a huge mass of rock, 
 projecting at a great height over the river, has received the name 
 of " The Lover's Leap," connected with which, of course, there are 
 many legends. There is a strong family likeness in these tales ; 
 one will serve as a sample. 
 
 A young lady, fickle and fair, formed a second attachment 
 before, it would seem, the first was altogether obliterated. She 
 was unconscious, however, of the misery her falsehood had 
 effected, until, while singing a favourite song to her new lover, 
 
LEINSTER. 1 5 
 
 between each verse, as she paused, she heard the tolling of 
 the church bell. This smote so upon her heart that she could 
 not continue, and at last inquired who was dead ; the reply 
 brought back the memory of her first love with far more than 
 its earliest fervour. That night she spent, heedless of the cold 
 and rain, upon the grave of him who had died for her sake. It 
 was in vain that her relatives entreated her to remain with them, 
 and try to forget the past ; she would return to them in the 
 morning, but invariably resume her lone seat before nightfall. 
 She who had been so false to the living, was faithful to the dead ; 
 and all the Aviles of the youth she had so gaily sung to, failed to 
 win her from her resolve to die for him who had died for her. At 
 length her mind wandered ; with an air of unearthly triumph she 
 assured her sister that her true love had risen from the grave, and 
 that she had walked with him along the headlands of the Glen ; 
 that he had promised to meet her again, and lead her to a spot 
 where they should be united to part no more. This alarmed 
 her family, and they placed her under mild restraint ; but, with 
 the cunning of insanity, she eluded their vigilance, and escaped. 
 A few minutes after her flight was discovered, her brother fol- 
 lowed, as usual, to the churchyard, at which he arrived just in 
 time to catch the last flutter of her scarf, as she flew rather than 
 ran towards the Dargle. He pursued, saw her pause for a moment 
 upon the fatal brink, and then dart into the boiling abyss. The 
 phantom created by her imagination doubtless led her to her 
 death ; but some will tell you that every Midsummer-eve her 
 spirit soars along the headland above the river, sometimes in the 
 similitude of a dove, floating like a silver star through the night ; 
 at other times in the shape of a white fawn, dashing fearlessly 
 

LEINSTER. 17 
 
 volume of descending water is so very small that the face of the 
 rock is seen through the thin veil of its delicate transparency. 
 But in winter, or when the channels of the mountain have been 
 charged by recent rain, the tumultuous fury with which the 
 thundering cataract dashes at one wild bound down the frightful 
 depth of its descent, fills the beholder's mind with wonder. 
 
 The admirable descriptive tourist, Mr. Lacy, of Wexford, gives 
 the following particulars, as narrated by a car-driver, regarding 
 the death of an Englishman, who, falling over the precipice in the 
 vicinity of the Waterfall, was killed on the spot. The unfortunate 
 gentleman, in company with some friends, went to Ireland, in the 
 summer of 1853, to see the Industrial Exhibition. Having 
 satisfied his curiosity in viewing the Exhibition, he availed him- 
 self of an early opportunity of visiting the county of Wicklow. 
 With this intention, accompanied by a friend, he arrived at Bray, 
 and set out from thence to visit the Dargle and this Waterfall. 
 When he arrived in its vicinity, he was so much struck with its 
 singularly beautiful features, more especially its splendid cascade, 
 that, with a degree of rashness for which he paid the forfeit of his 
 life, he climbed up the side of the adjoining mountain, and passed 
 across the intervening ledge of rock, until he arrived at the head 
 of the Fall. After a close examination of its interesting peculiari- 
 ties, he commenced his descent immediately beside the edge of 
 the falling torrent, and along the face of the shelving rock, so 
 steep and smooth that even the mountain goat could scarcely, 
 with impunity, make the attempt, In his downward progress he 
 endeavoured to support himself by catching at the scanty weeds 
 and moss that grow on the rocky surface ; but he found them 
 much too frail to sustain him in his perilous venture, as their 
 
 c 
 
1 8 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 shallow roots became torn by his grasp from their loose and infirm 
 holds, and the result was that he fell over the precipice, and was 
 instantly killed on the rocks beneath. Here would seem to be 
 promising materials for a "legend," when sufficient time has 
 elaj^sed for the process of evolution to be carried out. 
 
 Further to the west, many objects of interest may be seen. 
 Loughs Bray, Upper and Lower, are situated in the centre of a 
 peculiarly lonely district. The situation of the Lower Lake, under 
 the ridge of Kippure, is very striking and picturesque. It is 
 walled in on three sides by lofty and precipitous hills, and is open 
 on the fourth, at the lowest points of which its waters are poured 
 through a narrow opening into the valley of Glencree, forming 
 the Glencree river. The waters of Lough Bray are coloured very 
 deeply by the peat which covers the surrounding hills, through 
 which the water permeates, and the deep and gloomy tint is 
 increased by the shadow into which the lake is thrown by the 
 overhanging mountain to the south and west. The severe features 
 of this mountain tarn are pleasantly relieved by Lough Bray 
 Cottage and grounds. The contrast between the cultivation of 
 this garden and the barrenness around is very striking. The 
 view from the road a little below the lake is most grand : to the 
 right, the mountains of Douce and War stand out in bold relief ; 
 to the left are the Kippure Mountains ; in front, the valley of 
 Glencree and the demesne of Powerscourt ; and further on, an 
 apparently illimitable succession of hill and valley, wood and 
 grove, towns and villages, as far as the eye can reach. 
 
 From Bray the tourist generally proceeds to visit the Glen of 
 the Downs — a beautiful dell, resembling the Dargle, though on a 
 somewhat smaller scale — which lies a few miles south of Bray. 
 
LEINSTER. 19 
 
 The Glen is about a mile and a half in length. For a considerable 
 distance it runs along the foot of the Downs Mountain. The sides 
 of the defile rise to a height of about 600 feet, and are so preci- 
 pitous as barely to leave room for the narrow road and the small 
 bright stream that glides through the romantic vale with a devious 
 course, producing at every step, a constant succession of new 
 charms. The sides being clothed with a dense covering of vegeta- 
 tion, produce a rich effect. From the Glen is obtained a view of 
 the Greater Sugar-loaf Mountain. High upon the wooded hill 
 to the left going from Bray stands a banqueting-house and a 
 romantic cottage, so delightfully situated as to impart an air of 
 poetry to the whole landscape. These tasteful accessories to the 
 beauty of the scene have been constructed by Mr. Latouche, 
 through whose extensive and finely-wooded demesne of Bellevue 
 this enchanting Glen runs. From an octangular room in the 
 banqueting-house, the best view of the surrounding country may 
 be obtained :— the Glen far beneath, with the many-tinted sides of 
 the rocky steeps by which it is overhung, rich in native woods 
 and abundant plantations, and the sublime neighbouring moun- 
 tains, amongst which the two Sugar-loaf hills tower conspi- 
 cuously. 
 
 On clearing the Glen we reach the pretty hamlet of Delgany ; 
 and about three miles farther south is Newtown Mount Kennedy, 
 which, from its position in the centre of a tract of beautiful 
 country, is generally made a starting-point from whence the 
 tourist may visit the several objects of interest in its neighbour- 
 hood. The most remarkable of these is the wild ravine called the 
 Devil's Glen — -a combination of rock, wood, and water sufficiently 
 beautiful to entitle it to a better name. The Glen is about a 
 
 c 2 
 
2o SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 mile and a half in length, and not unlike the Dargle, but more 
 rugged and imposing in its general features. The river Vartry 
 rushes through the ravine, and forms at the head a fine fall 
 of 100 feet in height, in an unbroken stream, which is not 
 exceeded in beauty by any waterfall in Ireland. Midway in the 
 Glen a small summer-house has been erected ; a footway that 
 ascends from this house leads to a rock from which a fine view is 
 obtained. The pathway runs beside the river ; the stream flow- 
 ing with many a curve, as described in Tennyson's " Brook : " — 
 
 " It winds about, and in and out, 
 With here a blossom sailing ; 
 And here and there a lusty trout, 
 And here and there a grayling." 
 
 Among the attractions of the Yartry, and indeed of the county of 
 Wicklow, is good trout-fishing ; the fish, though not " lusty," 
 being numerous. 
 
 At a short distance are the classic grounds of Kosanna, where 
 Mrs. Tighe composed the well-known poem of " Psyche," one of 
 the most graceful poems in the language. In connection with this 
 accomplished lady, Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall found the following 
 epigram, in a traveller's album, in one of the cottages in the 
 neighbourhood : — 
 
 " Here in this happy Eden of our earth, 
 
 Dwelling with Nature and her holy train, 
 A mortal woman gave a spirit birth, 
 
 And Psyche made immortal once again." 
 
 The romantic Pass of Dunran, in this vicinity, should also be 
 visited by the tourist ; it is one of the sublime gems which enrich 
 the eastern part of the county of Wicklow. The defile is a 
 
■ ; 
 
 
 . 
 
LEINSTER. 2 1 
 
 narrow pass between lofty hills, in the several interstices of which 
 trees have been planted, where there is apparently scarcely soil 
 enough to cover their roots. As Dunran lies upon very high 
 ground, no water flows through it — -another variety in the charac- 
 teristics of the county. Though this Pass assimilates with the 
 general character of the magnificent scenery of the district, it pos- 
 sesses individual attractions to amply compensate the labour of 
 . ascending the eminence from whence it may be advantageously 
 viewed. 
 
 From Newtown Mount Kennedy, in a westerly direction, is the 
 village of Roundwood. The immediate neighbourhood of Round- 
 wood is not remarkable ; it is chiefly noted as a resting-place for 
 visitors to Glendalough and Luggelaw, for which purpose are two 
 comfortable country inns, where cars and horses can be had. The 
 reservoir for the supply of the new Dublin Waterworks is situated 
 near the village. It was constructed in 1863 by enclosing the 
 waters of the Vartry. 
 
 When within about two miles of Roundwood, a turn to the 
 right leads for about three miles up a long hill ; on either side the 
 winding road is looked down upon by the mountains that arise 
 above it — the Douce on the north, and Ballenrush on the south. 
 Suddenly a most glorious and magnificent scene bursts upon the 
 sight. The whole of the beautiful vale is seen : Luggelaw, or Lough 
 Tay, immediately below ; and, stretching to the east, the wild 
 grandeur of Lough Dan, connected by the river that runs between. 
 The beautiful sheet of water called Luggelaw, of which we give 
 a view, is encompassed on all sides by mountains, some of the 
 wildest, and others of the richest and most pleasing character. 
 One side is utterly bare, the other richly clad from the base to the 
 
22 SCENERV IN IRELAND. 
 
 summit with trees — fir and mountain-ash, thorn, oak, and elm — 
 nourished to gigantic growths. At one end of the lake is Lug- 
 gelaw Lodge. 
 
 Lough Tay receives its supply of water principally from the river 
 Annamoe, which, just before entering it, falls down a rock close 
 beside Luggelaw Lodge. The glen in whose upper end this lake 
 is placed is about ten miles in length, extending to Laragh. Lough 
 Dan is situated two miles farther down the glen. It is a larger 
 lake, and receives a portion of its supply from the Avonmore. 
 
 We will now turn our steps to the Vale of Glendalough, or, as 
 its name implies, the " Valley of the Two Lochs." It is about a 
 mile west of the village of Laragh, which is beautifully situated at 
 a spot where the vales of Laragh, Clara, and Glendalough meet. 
 The Vale of Glendalough is about three miles in length and half 
 a mile in width ; open at the eastern extremity, but enclosed on 
 every other side by lofty and precipitous mountains. As its name 
 indicates, there are two lakes in the valley, the Upper and the 
 Lower. These waters are thrown into solemn shade by the lofty 
 and gloomy mountains which overhang them. The glen is dark 
 and cheerless even in summer, and, being almost without a single 
 tree, has a gloomy aspect. 
 
 Although this spot offers fewer natural beauties to the observer 
 of nature than other portions of the county of Wicklow, it is 
 possessed of more than common interest to the lover of Irish 
 antiquities. Here are situated the far-famed ruins of the " Seven 
 Churches." Glendalough owes its origin to St. Kevin, of whom 
 many and curious tales are current, tradition taking up the tale 
 where history fails. It appears that St. Kevin, who was de- 
 scended from a noble family, was born in the year 498. At the 
 
LEINSTER. 2 3 
 
 age of seven years he was placed under the care and tuition of 
 Petrocus, a learned Briton, who had spent many years in Ireland 
 for his oavii improvement in learning. He continued with him 
 till 510, when he was sent to the cell of three holy anchorites, 
 with whom he studied for a considerable time previously to his 
 assuming the cowl. On taking holy orders he retired to the soli- 
 tude of Glendalough, then called Cluagn Duach, where, among 
 other works, he wrote a Life of St. Patrick. He founded an abbey 
 there, which he dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul, and having pre- 
 sided over it as abbot for several years, he died on the 3rd of 
 June, 618, at the great age of one hundred and twenty years. 
 His eminent virtues, great sanctity, and the fame of his miracles, 
 induced many to imitate his example by adopting his mode of life. 
 Among others, Mochuarog, a native of Britain, was induced to 
 come over to this country, and take up his residence in a cell on 
 the east side of Glendalough, where a city soon sprang up, and a 
 seminary was founded. From this seat of learning were sent forth 
 men eminent for their sanctity and learning, who were instru- 
 mental in diffusing the light of religious truth throughout many 
 parts of the western world. 
 
 Such is the brief history of the foundation of the ecclesiastical 
 city that once adorned these mountain solitudes, but of which 
 the decaying ruins are all that now remain. Even the identity of 
 the Seven Churches, for which this valley has been for centuries 
 celebrated, and which at the present time confer a second name 
 upon the spot, cannot be exactly ascertained ; and of the famous 
 city of Glendalough, built by Mochuarog, not a vestige remains 
 except a small paved plot of ground, of a quadrangular form, 
 which indicates the site of the market-place of the fallen city. No 
 
24 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 traces of domestic buildings have been discovered ; but the re- 
 mains of a causeAvay, extending from the ancient market-place to 
 Hollywood, on the borders of the county of Kildare, are still 
 visible. This laborious work of art was about twelve feet in 
 width, and was composed of blocks of roughly-hewn stone set 
 edgewise, not unlike the Roman roads that are frequently met with 
 in England. 
 
 Situated at the entrance of a glen singularly deep and secluded, 
 the principal ruins of Glendalough form an exceedingly pic- 
 turesque group. As shown in the engraving, the first object 
 that attracts attention is the stately Round Tower, one of the 
 finest in the kingdom. It is about 110 feet in height, sub- 
 stantially built, and is composed of the species of slate which 
 abounds in the neighbourhood, and also in part of granite. This 
 tower differs but little from the most perfect structures of the 
 same kind which are to be seen in many parts of Ireland. It 
 is open at the top, having been divested of the characteristic 
 conical roof by a storm in the present century. 
 
 Considerable discussion has arisen concerning the origin and use 
 of these mysterious structures. Some authorities believe that 
 they were temples of piety dedicated to the worship of the sun. 
 It is thought that the Druid priest ascended to the top every 
 morning to watch for sunrise, and on catching sight of the first 
 rays, proclaimed the fact aloud. Others consider these relics to 
 be nothing more than bell-towers. Their proximity to cathedrals 
 and churches would seem to warrant the latter supposition. 
 
 Of the religious edifices of Glendalough, the Cathedral, which 
 owes its origin to St. Kevin, is the most conspicuous. The 
 ancient building was but 18 feet in length and 30 in breadth. 
 
JILEME &X©Tff©BI. 
 
 KLOW . 
 
LEINSTER. 25 
 
 The architecture was of the rudest style. Three narrow windows 
 in the southern wall of the nave, and the east window of the 
 chancel, are still remaining. The western doorway, composed of 
 blocks of granite, is also in tolerable preservation. Adjoining the 
 Cathedral are the vestiges of a small structure called the Priest's 
 House, which probably formed the sacristy. 
 
 St. Kevin's Kitchen, a very curious structure, with a stone roof, 
 is one of the most perfect of the remains of these ecclesiastical 
 edifices. It is 22 feet long by 15 wide, and 20 feet in height, the 
 walls being 3 feet 6 inches thick. The remarkable round belfry, 
 which springs from the west end of the church, is 45 feet high, 
 and may easily be mistaken for a chimney ; hence the name given to 
 the structure. The building is evidently of very remote antiquity. 
 
 The Abbey, though now completely in ruins, is the most extensive 
 and the most interesting of the architectural remains in the valley. 
 It consisted originally of two buildings, lying parallel to each other, 
 of rare and beautiful workmanship, adorned with curious sculp- 
 tures ; but of these only detached fragments are now visible. 
 The remainder of the so-called Seven Churches are small buildings 
 that call for no special mention. They are evidently very ancient, 
 and are most interesting specimens of early Irish architecture. 
 Numerous crosses, many of them broken, are to be seen scattered 
 over the valley ; one of these, formed of a single block of granite, 
 is about 11 feet in height, and very richly wrought, 
 
 Most of the above remains are situated on the Lower Lake, 
 which is about a quarter of a mile long. It is generally said to 
 be that into which St. Patrick banished the last of the snakes ; 
 this honour, however, is claimed by several other lakes in the 
 island. Half a mile higher up the valley is the Upper Lake, a 
 
2 6 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 mile in length, celebrated as the scene of Kathleen's death. On 
 the south side of the lake is the famous St. Kevin's Bed, a small 
 cave hollowed in the face of the perpendicular rock, and over- 
 hancfinsr at a considerable height the dark waters of the lake. 
 The romantic tradition attached to this cave, even more than its 
 singular situation, has given it an extraordinary celebrity. Moore, 
 in one of his Irish melodies, has thus immortalised the legend of 
 the saint and Kathleen : — 
 
 " By that lake whose gloomy shore 
 Skylark never warbles o'er,* 
 Where the cliff hangs high and steep, 
 Young St. Kevin stole to sleep : 
 ' Here, at last,' he calmly said, 
 ' Woman ne'er shall find my bed.' 
 Ah ! the good saint little knew 
 What that wily sex can do. 
 
 " 'Twas from Kathleen's eyes he flew, 
 Eyes of most unholy blue ! 
 She had lov'd him well and long, 
 Wish'd him hers, nor thought it wrong. 
 Wheresoe'er the saint would fly, 
 Still he heard her light foot nigh ; 
 East or west, where'er he turn'd, 
 Still her eyes before him burn'd. 
 
 * It is believed that the lark has never been known to sing over gloomy Glendalough. 
 This fact is variously accounted for by tradition. One story says, that " when the Seven 
 Churches were building, it was the skylarks that used every morning to call the men to 
 their work. They had no watches in those days, and the song of the lark served as a 
 signal that it was time to begin their labour. When the holy work was at an end, 
 St. Kevin declared that no lark was worthy to succeed those pious birds that had helped 
 in the building of the churches." Another tradition relates that when the holy places 
 were being built, the workmen took an oath to " begin with the lark and he down with 
 the lamb ; " but the larks rose so early over the valley as to cause the men to rise long- 
 before they were refreshed, and in consequence many died from over-exertion, which so 
 touched the heart of St. Kevin, that he prayed that no lark might ever sing over the 
 spot again, thus saving his labourers' lives and their oaths at the same time. In these 
 matter-of-fact days it is suggested that, as larks prefer broad meadows and corn-fields 
 to deep rocky dells, the absence of those birds at Glendalough is not remarkable. 
 
LEINSTER. 27 
 
 " On the bold cliff's bosom cast, 
 Tranquil now be sleeps at last, 
 Dreams of heav'n, nor thinks that e'er 
 Woman's smile can haunt him here : 
 But nor earth nor heaven is free 
 From her power, if fond she be : 
 Even now, while calm he sleeps, 
 Kathleen o'er him leans and weeps. 
 
 " Fearless she had track' d his feet 
 To this rocky, wild retreat ; 
 And when morning met his view, 
 Her mild glances met it too. 
 Ah ! you saints have cruel hearts ! 
 Sternly from his bed he starts, 
 And with rude, repulsive shock, 
 Hurls her from the beetling rock. 
 
 " Glendalough ! thy gloomy wave 
 Soon was gentle Kathleen's grave ; 
 Soon the saint (yet, ah ! too late) 
 Felt her love, and niourn'd her fate — 
 When he said, ' Heav'n rest her soul ! ' 
 Round the lake light music stole ; 
 And her ghost was seen to glide, 
 Smiling o'er the fatal tide ! " 
 
 To enter the Bed of St. Kevin is the ambition of most tourists, 
 and much difference of opinion has been expressed regarding the 
 difficulty of the enterprise. Mr. Otway thus narrates his visit to 
 the Bed : "By this time we had rowed under Kevin's Bed, and, 
 landing adjoining to it, ascended an inclined stratum of rock to a 
 sort of ledge or resting-place, from whence I and some others pre- 
 pared to enter the Bed. Here the guides make much ado about 
 proposing their assistance ; but to any one who has common sense 
 and enterprise, there is no serious difficulty, for, by the aid of 
 certain holes in the rock, and points which you can easily 
 grasp, you can turn into this little artificial cave, which, in fact, is 
 not bigger than a small baker's oven ; and were it not that it 
 
28 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 hangs some twenty feet perpendicularly over the dark blue lake, 
 this cavity, not larger than many a pig-sty I have seen excavated 
 in the side of a bank, could not attract so many visitors. I and 
 two young men who followed me, found it a very tight fit when 
 crouched together in it. At the farther end there is a sort of 
 pillow and peculiar excavation made for the saint's head, and the 
 whole of the interior is tattooed with the initials of such as have 
 adventured to come in." 
 
 Among the many signatures inscribed on the walls of the Bed 
 is that of Sir Walter Scott (W. S.), carved by his son, when the 
 great novelist visited Glendalough in 1825, in company with the 
 talented Maria Edgeworth. At this time Scott was in declining 
 health. He was accompanied by his son-in-law, Mr. Lockhart, 
 who has given the following account of the visit to St. Kevin's 
 Bed : — " It is a hole in the sheer surface of the rock, within which 
 two or three people might sit. The difficulty of getting into this 
 place has been exaggerated, as also the danger ; for it would only 
 be falling about twenty feet into very deep water. Yet I never 
 was more pained than when Sir Walter Scott, in spite of all 
 remonstrances, would make his way to it, crawling along the 
 precipice. He succeeded, and got in ! After he was gone, Lord 
 Plunket, then Attorney-General, told the female guide he was a 
 poet. ' Poet ! ' said she ; ' the devil a bit of him ; but an honour- 
 able gentleman. He gave me half-a-crown.' " 
 
 A still wilder part of this district is Glenmalure, through which 
 runs the military road to the Vale of Ovoca, by the side of the 
 Avonbeg. The character of this glen is altogether different from 
 the picturesque beauty of the wooded Dargle, or the softer features 
 of the Glen of the Downs ; its aspect is wild and impressive, the 
 
LEINSTER. 29 
 
 rude and barren rocks which rise abruptly on either hand giving 
 a savage grandeur to the scene. The head of Glenmalure, where 
 the waters of a small stream, flowing down the precipitous face of 
 a steep mountain, form the Ess Fall, is especially striking, and the 
 outlet of Glenmalure, proceeding towards Rathdrum, is extremely 
 pleasing. The valley expands, the hills slope gently away, and 
 being wooded down to the banks of the river, the features of the 
 landscape are not so wild and rugged as in the upper part of the 
 glen. 
 
 A more picturesque route to the Yale of Ovoca is by a road to 
 the east, passing through the Yale of Clara, through which flows 
 the Avonmore river. The vale, which has little of the wild or 
 striking in its character, is very beautiful. 
 
 At the junction of Glenmalure with the Yale of Ovoca, the 
 most striking object is Castle Howard, perched on an eminence on 
 the left of the river Avonmore, just above its famous junction with 
 the Avonbeg. This romantic structure gains much in effect from 
 its position on an elevation of 200 feet above the river. The 
 view from the grounds embraces the surrounding hills and Yale of 
 Ovoca. Directly below Castle Howard, the Avonbeg and the 
 Avonmore, stealing forth from their secluded glens, unite their 
 streams, and flow down the vale under the name of the Ovoca. 
 The confluence of these rivers is generally termed " The Meeting 
 of the Waters." Nature has here scattered her charms with a 
 liberal hand ; waving woods, clear waters, and verdant shores 
 ' combine to render the scene one of surpassing softness and beau- 
 tiful tranquillity. The attractions of the spot, however, in this 
 respect, are not more conspicuous than those of other places in the 
 immediate neighbourhood. Its real celebrity lies in "the fact of 
 
3 o SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 its being the scene of one of Moore's most exquisite lyrics ; his 
 verses have conferred an undying fame on the Vale of Ovoca. We 
 subjoin the four stanzas consecrated to the " Meeting of the 
 Waters," and wish there were twenty-four : — 
 
 " There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet 
 As that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet ; 
 Oh ! the last rays of f eeling and lif e must depart, 
 Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart. 
 
 " Yet, it was not that nature had shed o'er the scene 
 Her purest of crystal and brightest of green ; 
 'Twas not the soft magic of streamlet or hill : 
 Oh ! no, — it was something more exquisite still : 
 
 " 'Twas that friends, the beloved of my bosom, were near, 
 Who made each dear scene of enchantment more dear, 
 And who felt how the best charms of nature improve 
 When we see them reflected from looks that we love. 
 
 " Sweet Vale of Ovoca ! how calm could I rest 
 In thy bosom of shade, with the friends I love best, 
 Where the storms which we feel in this cold world should cease, 
 And our hearts, like thy waters, be mingled in peace ! " 
 
 The railroad follows the Ovoca ; on both sides the vale is clad 
 with ferns, mosses, and golden saxifrage. Occasional glimpses of 
 stately mansions are obtained, skilfully placed so as to command 
 the best points of view. Midway in the valley there are copper 
 and sulphur mines. Arriving at Wooden Bridge, a second 
 meeting of the waters may be witnessed. The clear and rapid 
 river Aughrim, after flowing through rich and verdant meadows, 
 here falls into the Ovoca. This spot has been supposed by some 
 to be the scene of Moore's poem : in a letter to a friend he says — 
 " The fact is, I wrote the song at neither place ; though I believe 
 the scene under Castle Howard (first meeting) was the one that 
 suggested it to me." After this confluence, the Ovoca glides 
 
LEINSTER. 31 
 
 through widely-spreading plains, and between lofty and richly- 
 planted hills, pursuing its course in an easterly direction to Ark- 
 low, passing on its way the extensive and beautiful grounds of 
 Shelton Abbey, the seat of the Earl of Wicklow. 
 
 The town of Arklow is favourably situated on the south bank 
 of the Ovoca, which here expands considerably, and after passing 
 beneath the handsome bridge, flows into the sea about half a mile 
 from the town. Like most of the seaports along the eastern 
 shore, it has the disadvantage of a bar. The remains of an 
 ancient castle still exist here ; but of its once famous abbey 
 there are now no remains. Earl Carysfort's splendid mansion, 
 Glenart Castle, is situated about a mile and a half from the town. 
 
 About three miles beyond Arklow the railroad crosses the 
 boundary of the two counties and enters Wexford, proceeding on- 
 wards to Enniscorthy, and thence to the county town of Wexford. 
 
 We must now leave the lovely county of Wicklow, passing 
 unnoticed innumerable objects of interest and beauty, to notice 
 which would have far exceeded our space. We trust enough has 
 been written to tempt some English tourists to visit a district so 
 full of rich and varied scenery, and one so easily accessible from 
 any part of England. 
 
PART IL— MUNSTER, 
 
 CORK, WATERFORD, KERRY, LIMERICK, AND CLARE, 
 
 ]) 
 
■■•" 
 
 
CORK AND WATERFORD. 
 
 County Cork : its Coast Line— Bantry Bay— Cork Harbour— Haulbowline, Spike, and 
 Rocky Island— Queenstown— Black Eock Castle— City of Cork— Rostellan Castle- 
 Castle Mary— Cloyne— Blarney : its Castle— The Blarney Stone— Youghal— The 
 River Blackwater : Objects of Interest on its Banks— Cappoquin— Lismore : its 
 Castle and Grounds— Mount Melleray Abbey. 
 
 'THE County of Cork, in the province of Munster, is the largest 
 county in Ireland. It is admirably situated for commerce, 
 possessing a coast line of about one hundred miles, indented with 
 noble bays and harbours. The chief of these is Cork Harbour, 
 not only in connection with the capital of the county, but as being 
 one of the most extensive and commodious in the kingdom. 
 Eastward from Cork Harbour is Ballycotton Bay and Youghal 
 Harbour ; westward, we have Kinsale Harbour, the lesser har- 
 bours of Ross and Glandore, and a line of coast bold, various, and 
 rich in marine scenery of unequalled beauty. Passing Baltimore 
 Bay, we reach the well-known island of Cape Clear. Dunmanus 
 Bay is the first harbour of any note met with after doubling 
 Mizen Head, and finally the far-famed Bantry Bay. This noble- 
 spreading bay presents a scene of surpassing grandeur and loveli- 
 ness to the spectator sailing up from the entrance of the harbour 
 
 i) 2 
 
36 SC ENER Y IN IRELAND. 
 
 to the town of Bantry. The length of the Bay exceeds twenty 
 miles, in breadth it varies from three to eight miles, and in some 
 places it is forty fathoms in depth. The shores of this vast sheet 
 of water are agreeably diversified ; on the north side, the moun- 
 tain barriers which confine it seem to start up precipitously from 
 the water's edge, and give a wild and impressive character to the 
 scenery. The Bay is studded with islands, of which Bere Island 
 and Whiddy are the principal. Around all, the blue, lofty chain 
 of Killarney and the Reeks, Glengariff and Gougane Barra, with 
 other mountains of the boldest and most fantastic outlines, encom- 
 pass this magnificent picture. 
 
 The City of Cork, sometimes called the metropolis of Munster, 
 may be reached seaward by steamer from London, calling at Ply- 
 mouth, once a week; from Liverpool and Bristol twice a week. 
 The harbour is one of the most important and beautiful in the 
 kingdom, and is said to be large enough to contain the whole 
 navy of Great Britain. Entered by two bold headlands, the har- 
 bour widens out into a noble expanse of sea, dotted with three 
 small islands — Haulbowline, Spike, and Rocky Island. Behind 
 these is the Great Island, on the south side of which is Queens- 
 town, originally called Cove. This town has been long famed for 
 the salubrity of its air, and is much resorted to by invalids. It 
 is built on the side of a steep hill, facing the harbour, from which 
 it is distant about four miles. The heights above the town com- 
 mand splendid views of the extensive anchorage below. 
 
 The passage from Queenstown to Cork by the steamer is a 
 delightful trip of about ten miles, the sides of the river presenting 
 continuous scenes of the richest beauty. Monkstown, a thriving 
 little place, is passed, with the ruins of its ancient castle standing 
 
MVNSTER. 37 
 
 in a commanding situation on the overhanging hill. Glenbrook, a 
 pretty village with baths, and Passage, a little watering-place about 
 six miles from Cork, are the next stations. The Castle of Black 
 Rock, a conspicuous and beautiful object as we approach the city, 
 is picturesquely situated on the extremity of a peninsula. It is a 
 modern construction, but at a distance it presents the appearance 
 of a formidable old castle. At night the lighthouse of Black 
 Rock displays its guiding beacon. We have now arrived at the 
 quays of Cork, having glanced at a few of the beauties of this 
 " noble sea avenue," as it has been called. 
 
 The tourist coming from Dublin would reach Cork by the Great 
 Southern and Western Railway, the distance being about 165 
 miles, passing through portions of five counties; if he were so 
 disposed, breaking the journey to visit objects of interest on the 
 route. 
 
 Cork holds rank as the second city of Ireland, in extent, 
 population, and commercial importance. The river Lee flows 
 through it in two channels, converting the principal portion of the 
 city into an island. This island is connected with the shores on 
 either side by six bridges, four spanning the stream on the south, 
 and two on the north. The city, though well built, is not equal 
 to Dublin in the number and beauty of its public buildings. 
 
 Queen's College stands on an eminence south of the river Lee. 
 The building is of quadrangular shape, its principal front facing 
 the north, and displaying a remarkably grand and beautiful 
 appearance. In the centre of this front rises a fine embattled 
 tower. East of the town are situated the lecture and examination 
 halls of the college, both light and elegant structures of the 
 Pointed Gothic style of architecture. 
 
38 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 Shandon Church (St. Ann's) has a good chime of bells, which 
 have become celebrated on account of the number of lyrics which 
 they have given rise to. We quote the following exquisite poem, 
 by the Rev. Francis Mahony (Father Prout), in which he pays the 
 tribute of fond recollection to his native city, and the " magic 
 spells" of his childhood : — 
 
 " With deep affection and recollection 
 I often think of the Shandon hells, 
 Whose sounds so wild would, in days of childhood, 
 
 Fling round my cradle their magic spells. 
 On this I ponder, where'er I wander, 
 And thus grow fonder, sweet Cork, of thee ! 
 With thy hells of Shandon, 
 That sound so grand on 
 The pleasant waters of the river Lee. 
 
 " I have heard hells chiming full many a clime in, 
 Tolling sublime in cathedral shrine, 
 While at a glib rate brass tongues would vibrate ; 
 
 But all their music spoke nought to thine ! 
 For memory, dwelling on each proud swelling 
 Of thy belfry, knelling its bold notes free, 
 Made the bells of Shandon 
 Sound far more grand on 
 The pleasant waters of the river Lee ! 
 
 " I have heard bells tolling ' old Adrian's mole ' in, 
 Their thunder rolling from the Vatican ; 
 With cymbals glorious, singing uproarious 
 In the gorgeous turrets of Notre Dame ; 
 But thy sounds were sweeter than the dome of Peter 
 Flings o'er the Tiber, pealing solemnly. 
 Oh ! the bells of Shandon 
 Sound far more grand on 
 The pleasant waters of the river Lee ! 
 
 " There's a bell in Moscow, while on tower and kiosko, 
 In Saint Sophia, the Turkman gets, 
 And loud in air calls men to prayer 
 
 From the tapering summits of tall minarets. 
 
MUNSTER. 3 g 
 
 Such empty phantom I freely grant them ; 
 But there's an anthem more dear to me — 
 
 It's the bells of Shandon, 
 
 That sound so grand on 
 The pleasant waters of the river Lee ! " 
 
 The Custom House is a considerable building, situated at the 
 confluence of the two branches of the stream, on the eastern side 
 of the city. 
 
 Among the excursions that may be taken from Cork is a plea- 
 sant trip by steamer daily to Aghada, on the southern shore of the 
 harbour, en route for Cloyne. On the way, Rostellan Castle is 
 passed, once the seat of the O'Briens, Marquises of Thomond. 
 The modern mansion, beautifully situated on a wooded promon- 
 tory commanding a fine view of the harbour, occupies the site of 
 an ancient castle of the Fitzgeralds. Passing the little hamlet of 
 Laleen, we come to the house and demesne of Castle Mary, in the 
 vicinity of which is one of those Druidical remains known as 
 cromlechs. 
 
 Cloyne, distant about a mile from Castle Mary, is pleasantly 
 situated on a gentle eminence that rises from the southern vale of 
 Imokilly. It was formerly the seat of the bishop of the diocese 
 of that name, but now it has little besides its antiquarian interest 
 to invite the attention of the traveller. The ancient name of the 
 place was " the Retreat of the Caves," — the propriety of the 
 designation being evident from the numerous caves of great extent 
 which exist in the neighbourhood. The pious St. Coleman erected 
 a church here in the sixth century. The edifice must have been 
 a small, low building, exceedingly plain and simple. The portions 
 that remain consist of the choir, the nave, and the north and 
 south transepts. The former was reconstructed in 1776 by 
 
4 o SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 Bishop Agar, in a style not at all in character with the original 
 design. In the adjoining churchyard are the ruins of a small 
 building called by some the "Fire-house:" it* is evidently of 
 great antiquity. At a short distance from the church stands a 
 remarkable specimen of the ancient round tower. 
 
 The renowned Blarney is five miles from Cork, and may be 
 reached by rail or car. The principal object of curiosity is the 
 old Castle, which stands on a rock, at the base of which flows a 
 small river. A massive square tower 120 feet "high is all that 
 now remains of the extensive defences which once covered an 
 enormous extent of ground. A portion of the Castle proper also 
 remains, the roof and most of the floors of which have, however, 
 disappeared. One of these apartments, the " Earl's Chamber," is 
 a cheerful room, lighted by a large bay-window, overlooking the 
 adjacent country. This stronghold was erected in the fifteenth cen- 
 tury by Cormac McCarthy. The grounds attached to the Castle — the 
 celebrated " Groves " — have still a charm about them, although 
 their beauty has sadly faded ; the fine old timber has been felled, 
 and the statues and rustic adornments have disapj^eared. 
 
 To the " Blarney Stone," however, the Castle owes more of its 
 celebrity than to its historic recollections. A curious and inex-' 
 plicable tradition attributes to it the magic power of " endowing 
 whoever kisses it with the sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence 
 so perceptible in the language of the Cork people, and which is 
 generally termed blarney." Some perplexity exists as to the 
 identity of this wonderful stone. Competent authorities assert 
 that the "real" stone is about twenty feet from the top of the 
 lofty tower, in such a position that no man could possibly kiss it, 
 unless he happened to be a bird, or a member of the Alpine Club. 
 
MUNSTER. 41 
 
 It had also been the custom to point out a stone a few feet below 
 the battlements, which the very daring only would run the hazard 
 of saluting. To avoid the temptation of this dangerous exploit, 
 the proprietor had the stone removed from the wall and placed on 
 the top of the tower, where it could be kissed without risk. Now 
 the candidate for Blarney honours will be glad to know that 
 the stone has been placed on the lawn, where it is still more 
 accessible. The visitor, however, who ascends the narrow stair- 
 case of the tower will be amply rewarded for his exertions on 
 reaching the top, which commands a fine view over lake and 
 meadow, and over " the Groves of Blarney," renowned in song. 
 
 It is certainly a " curiosity of literature " that a few nonsense 
 verses should succeed in gaining a world-wide notoriety for a place 
 which otherwise would scarcely have been celebrated beyond its 
 own vicinity. "The Groves of Blarney" was written in 1799, 
 by Richard Alfred Millikin, an attorney of Cork. The author 
 little anticipated the celebrity his lines were destined to acquire ; 
 they were intended to burlesque the wordy ditties with which 
 ignorant pedants used to astonish the village circles. We quote a 
 sample of this famous song : — 
 
 " The groves of Blarney, they look so charming, 
 
 Down by the purlings of sweet silent brooks ; 
 All graced by posies that spontaneous grow there, 
 
 And planted in order in the rocky nooks. 
 'Tis there the daisy and sweet carnation, 
 
 The blooming pink and rose so fair, 
 The daffodowndilly, besides the lily, 
 
 Flowers that scent the sweet fragrant air. 
 
 "There's statues gracing this noble mansion, 
 All heathen gods and goddesses so fair : 
 Bold Neptune, Plutarch, and Nicodamus, 
 All standing in the open ah 1 . 
 
42 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 So now to finish this bold narration, 
 
 That my poor genii could not entwine ; 
 But were I Homer or Nebuchadnezzar, 
 
 In every feature I'd make it shine." 
 
 The following lines, referring to the Blarney Stone, were added 
 by Father Prout : — 
 
 " There is a boat on the lake to float on, 
 
 And lots of beauties which I can't entwine ; 
 But were I a preacher or a classic teacher, 
 
 In every feature I'd make 'em shine. 
 There is a stone there that whoever kisses, 
 
 Oh, he never misses to grow eloquent ; 
 In he may clamber to a lady's chamber, 
 
 Or become a member of parliament. 
 
 " A clever spouter he'll soon turn out, or 
 An out-and-outer ' to be let alone ; ' 
 Don't hope to hinder him or to bewilder him — 
 Sure he's a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone." 
 
 Blarney Lake, a short distance from the Castle, is a pretty sheet 
 of water, connected with a tradition of a herd of white cows that 
 at certain seasons rise out of the lake to graze on the pastures on 
 its banks. A very fine cromlech stands within the grounds of 
 the Castle, and a number of pillar-stones may be seen in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 The visitor to Cork should not miss the excursion by rail to 
 Youghal, from whence a steamer proceeds up the Blackwater to 
 Cappoquin, one of the most delightful trips in the south of 
 Ireland. The ancient town of Youghal is situated on the western 
 bank of the Blackwater, the mouth of which forms the harbour. 
 Although a fine and well-sheltered bay, it is rendered inaccessible 
 to large vessels by a bar. The strand in the neighbourhood, con- 
 sisting of fine white sand, affords excellent accommodation for 
 
MUNSTER. 43 
 
 bathing. Some interesting ecclesiastical ruins are seen in the 
 town, among them the old church of Youghal, portions of which 
 are still used as a place of worship, having been restored from a 
 state of ruin. The church contains many interesting tombs. On 
 a hill above the town is pointed out the spot where the first 
 potato, brought from America by Sir Walter Raleigh, was cul- 
 tivated. His house, erected by him in 1586, still stands in the 
 town, near the church. It is a fine specimen of the Elizabethan 
 style of architecture, in good preservation, possessing some splendid 
 oak carving. The house is now called Myrtle Grove, from the 
 fine specimens of that shrub which grow in the garden. 
 
 Starting from Youghal Quay, the steamer soon arrives at the 
 wooden bridge, a striking and important structure, where the 
 Blackwater river proper is entered. Rhincrew Abbey next arrests 
 the tourist's attention ; it is situated on a bold promontory above 
 the river, and, notwithstanding its present ruined state, is a very 
 interesting feature. This abbey originally belonged to the Knights 
 Ten^lars. The square embattled tower is the remains of Temple 
 Michael, said to have been built by the Templars to guard the 
 channel at this point. Passing up the river, the fine mansion and 
 ruin of Ballinatray present themselves. This interesting and 
 beautiful spot is a popular place of resort in the summer season. 
 We next arrive at the ruins of old Strancally Castle, which are 
 almost confounded with the moss-grown rocks on which they 
 stand, directly over the river. New Strancally Castle, taking its 
 name from the old castle just mentioned, stands at a short distance 
 from its predecessor. It is a richly ornamented structure, in the 
 florid Gothic style of architecture, displaying great variety in its 
 numerous details. The building is surrounded with noble trees, 
 
44 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 through which its architectural features are seen to great advan- 
 tage. Not far from this mansion the river Bride falls into the 
 Blackwater. 
 
 Two miles further is Dromana, the fine seat of Lord Stuart de 
 Decies. It is charmingly situated on the verge of an eminence 
 that rises precipitously from the river. From the grounds of the 
 castle, which are freely open to visitors, fine views of the moun- 
 tains and the river are obtained. Higher up, on the opposite side 
 of the river, are the ancient Castle of Tourin and the modern 
 mansion of the same name. On through a succession of interesting 
 views and we arrive at Cappoquin, and the end of the steamer's 
 journey. 
 
 Lismore is rather less than four miles from Cappoquin. _ The 
 ride, is very charming on either side of the river, the banks being 
 enriched with the most luxuriant plantations. The town is well 
 built and remarkably clean ; its chief attraction, however, is the 
 Castle of the Duke of Devonshire! 
 
 Lismoke Castle was founded on the ruins of an abbey erected 
 by John, Earl of Moreton, and Lord of Ireland. After being 
 destroyed by the Irish, and undergoing various other fortunes, it 
 was rebuilt, and became an episcopal residence ; till at length, in 
 1589, it passed with the rest of the manor to Sir Walter Raleigh, 
 and was afterwards sold by him to Sir Richard Boyle, afterwards 
 Earl of Cork. In 1626, the famous Robert Boyle was born within 
 its walls. In the rebellion of 1641 it withstood successfully a 
 siege by five thousand Irish, under Sir Richard Belling. Two 
 years after, the castle was attacked again by a still greater force, 
 and again remained triumphant; but in 1645 it was at length 
 taken by Lord Castlehaven. From the Boyle family Lismore passed 
 
& 
 
 uufm 
 
 *«< 
 
 
MUNSTER. 45 
 
 into that of Cavendish in 1748, by the marriage of Lady Charlotte 
 Boyle, daughter of the fourth Earl of Cork, to the fourth Duke of 
 Devonshire. 
 
 The present building is a noble pile ; its position, overhanging 
 the river, is very commanding. A fine view of the Castle can be 
 obtained from the bridge at its foot, as the grand portions of it 
 display their rich facades to this point of view. The main struc- 
 ture is of great antiquity, but much of it has been restored. " At 
 the eastern angle of the river face, the tower of King James rises, 
 and to the rear, towards the town, that which is called King 
 John's. The former derives its name from having been, the 
 resting-place of James II. during the war of the Revolution ; the 
 latter, as the scene of the first British Parliament held in Ireland 
 under the presidency of King John." Among the extensive 
 additions contemplated by the late Duke is the Carlisle Tower, 
 named after the late Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, by whom the 
 foundation-stone was laid. Had these works been carried out, they 
 would have entitled Lismore Castle to rank amongst the noblest 
 residences in Great Britain. 
 
 Among the state apartments of the Castle are the dining-room, 
 which is of ample dimensions, richly decorated and splendidly 
 furnished ; the Duke's private room and the grand drawing-room, 
 equally well furnished, and containing pictures of rare merit. 
 From the windows of these apartments views of the most extensive 
 and charming description are obtained. The billiard-room is a 
 large and lofty saloon, lighted by a dome in the daytime, and by 
 an elegant chandelier at night. The ball-room also is a magnificent 
 chamber, richly embellished. The decorations of the several rooms 
 are of the most gorgeous and beautiful description. 
 
46 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 The pleasure-grounds and gardens are laid out with exquisite 
 taste. One of the attractions is the terrace, the favourite walk of 
 the late Duke ; from this delightful promenade admirable views 
 are obtained. A flight of steps — still called Sir Walter Raleigh's 
 — lead from the terrace. The gardens contain an immense variety 
 of rare and valued plants. The Old Yew Walk, of more than a 
 hundred years' standing, is a great curiosity ; the fine old trees 
 growing into each other form a continuous natural arch of one 
 hundred and fifty feet in length. The Castle and the grounds are 
 liberally open for the inspection of visitors. 
 
 Not far from Lismore is the celebrated Abbey of Mount Melleray ; 
 it is situated on the sloping side of a hilly range beneath the 
 Lismore and CappoqUin mountains. This singular community 
 was originally formed by some French Cistercian monks, driven 
 from France by the Revolution of 1830 : the members are now 
 nearly all of English or Irish birth. On their arrival in Ireland 
 their number amounted to about fifty. The ground upon which 
 the abbey is built was then a stony waste, of which the proprietor 
 granted a lease at a nominal rent. It has been brought into cul- 
 tivation by the labour of their hands ; and it is really surprising 
 to behold what their patience and toil have achieved on soil so 
 unpromising. The monastery, the church, the school, the work- 
 shops and various offices, are all the work of the brethren of the 
 Order, who number among them tradesmen of every description. 
 
 " On the occasion of my visit," says Mr. Lacy, " I was so far 
 favoured as to be accompanied by one of the brotherhood through 
 the whole of this large and interesting establishment. I was first 
 shown through the beautiful church, and was forcibly struck with 
 the style and grandeur of the magnificent altar, the entire of 
 
MUNSTER. 47 
 
 which, including its chaste and various ornaments, is also the 
 work of the members of the brotherhood. This elegant church is 
 appropriated exclusively to the use of the members of the com- 
 munity. I was next shown through the outer chapel, which is 
 divided by a partition from the former ; it is a commodious place 
 of worship, and is open to the people of the neighbouring district. 
 We next visited the chapter- room, or lecture-hall, a fine oblong- 
 chamber, at the upper end of which is situated the abbot's throne, 
 beneath a splendid representation of our Redeemer's crucifixion. 
 Beside the throne are the seats of the prior and sub-prior, and 
 along the sides of the hall are stalls for the brethren of the Order, 
 according to seniority. The dining-hall is a chamber of the same 
 form and dimensions as that last mentioned, with a seat for the 
 abbot beneath a crucifix, and beside it, as in the former instance, 
 seats for the prior and sub-prior ; the brethren also take their 
 places according to seniority. Flesh meat is never used in this 
 establishment, the community living upon vegetables and milk, 
 The brethren bake their own bread, cook their own food, and 
 make their own clothing and all other necessaries. In the dormi- 
 tory, a large oblong room, the sleeping places are divided from 
 each other, and a plain curtain drawn across the entrance to each 
 compartment, over which the name of the brother to whom it 
 belongs is labelled. The articles of bedding were plain, but per- 
 fectly clean, and, according to my notion, scanty. Accommodation 
 is afforded here for some seventy or eighty brothers, but several of 
 the compartments were unfurnished, as the number of the com- 
 munity at this time did not exceed between fifty and sixty indi- 
 viduals. I next proceeded, attended by the kind brother, to view 
 the cemetery, noticing the tomb of the first abbot, Dr. Ryan, and 
 
48 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 also the graves of several of the brethren of the Order ; a plain 
 cross stood at the head of each grave. The building forms a 
 spacious quadrangle, around which run the cloisters, A rigid 
 silence is observed in all the principal portions of the abbey, and 
 the ominous and awe-inspiring word is written on several parts of 
 the interior. This ordinance is punctually observed in the church, 
 the chapter-room, dining-hall, and dormitory ; in other parts of 
 the institution an exception to this severe rule is allowed. The 
 habits of the lay brothers are brown, with a cowl, which they 
 raise when they enter the church and other parts of the abbey ; 
 the clerics of the Order wear white habits. My final visit was to 
 the school, which is situated about one hundred yards from the 
 abbey." 
 
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 KERRY. 
 
 Routes to Killarney — Bantry — Glengariff — Kenmare — Lough Allua — Gougane Barra — 
 Pass of Keimaneigh — Killarney : General Description of the Lakes — The Upper 
 Lake — The Long Range — The Middle Lake — Tore Mountain — Muckross Abbey — 
 The Lower Lake— Aghadoe — Gap of Dunloe — Black Valley — Macgillicuddy's Reeks 
 — Mangerton Mountain — Glen of the Horse — Lough Guitane. 
 
 ~I7"ILLARNEY may be reached direct by rail from Dublin, the dis- 
 tance being about 186 miles ; or direct from Cork, via Mallow 
 Junction, distance 6 1 miles. To the lovers of picturesque scenery 
 there are also two charming routes to Killarney from Cork, 
 embracing some of the most beautiful mountain districts of the 
 south-west of Ireland. The first route is by rail to Dunmanway ; 
 thence by coach and car to Bantry, Glengariff, and Kenmare. 
 Bantry is a picturesque little town, finely situated at the head of 
 its unrivalled bay, of which fine views are obtained from the 
 eminences around. A mountain road leads to Glengariff. This 
 lovely glen is about three miles in length, and about a quarter of 
 a mile in width ; the precipitous rocks which enclose it are clothed 
 with yew, holly, and arbutus, which flourish luxuriantly, and a 
 mountain stream forces its way through this Alpine valley. A 
 fine view of the glen is obtained from the Berehaven road, near 
 
 E 
 
5 o SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 Cromwell's Bridge, from whence the spectator beholds the dark 
 woods, hills, and rushing streams of Glengariff, the lofty moun- 
 tains of Berehaven, the bold shores of Bantry Bay, and, afar off, 
 the ocean. The road from Glengariff to Kenmare lies through a 
 mountain district, affording grand views of the valleys beneath. 
 Near the summit of this mountain ridge the road passes through a 
 tunnel, 600 feet long, cut in the rock. Within this tunnel a 
 fissure marks the boundary between the counties of Cork and 
 Kerry. From here to Kenmare the road is less wild. This 
 is a neat and pleasant little town, entered by a suspension bridge 
 over the river. Between Kenmare and Killarney the aspect of 
 the country begins to mellow into the softer traits of the Lake 
 scenery ; the hills are partially wooded, and the crags which over- 
 hang the road are tufted with rich verdure. On reaching the 
 summit of the road the mountains .of Killarney come into view, 
 and shortly after the tourist beholds the far-famed Lakes. 
 
 A second picturesque route to Killarney is by rail from Cork to 
 Macroom, thence by road to Inchigeelagh, diverging westward to 
 Lough Allua and Gougane Barra, through the Pass of Keimaneigh 
 to Bantry, thence by Glengariff and Kenmare, as before. Lough 
 Allua is a beautiful sheet of water, about three miles in length, 
 and in some places nearly a mile in breadth. It is dotted with 
 numerous pretty islands. After passing this lake, the river con- 
 tracts itself into a narrow stream, and the traveller approaches, 
 through narrow defiles and deep glens, the sequestered lake of 
 Gougane Barra. The lake, which is situated in a deep mountain 
 recess, is enclosed on every side except the east with steep and rocky 
 hills, down whose sides several mountain streams pour their limpid 
 waters. In the centre of the lake is a small island, on which was 
 
MUNSTER. 5 1 
 
 the dwelling of St. Fionn Bar. The ruins of the hermitage may 
 still he seen. A native poet, named Callanan, has happily de- 
 scribed, in verse, the features of this celebrated island ; we quote 
 the opening lines : — 
 
 " There is a green island in low Gougane Barra, 
 Where Allua of song rushes forth as an arrow ; 
 In deep-vallied Desmond, a thousand wild fountains 
 Come down to that lake, from their home in the mountains. 
 There grows the wild ash, and a time-stricken willow 
 Looks chidingly down on the mirth of the billow, 
 As like some gay child, that sad monitor scorning, 
 It lightly laughs back to the laugh of the morning. 
 And its zone of dark hills — oh ! to see them all bright' ning 
 When the tempest flings out its red banner of lightning ; 
 And the waters rush down 'mid the thunder's deep rattle, 
 Like the clans from the hills, at the voice of the battle ; 
 And brightly the fire-crested billows are gleaming, 
 And wildly from Maolagh the eagles are screaming. 
 Oh ! where is the dwelling, in valley or highland, 
 So meet for a bard as this lone little island?" 
 
 Returning to the main road, the Pass of Keimaneigh is reached, 
 which for picturesque and gloomy grandeur is scarcely surpassed 
 even in this region of romantic glens and mountain defiles. 
 Through this Pass runs the road to Bantry, whence the tourist will 
 proceed by way of Glengariff and Kenmare to Killarney, as already 
 traced. 
 
 By approaching the Lakes from the Kenmare road, a bird's-eye 
 view of this renowned district is obtained. From this elevation 
 the three bodies of water appear spread out below the eye, with 
 their islands and mountain shores, in a landscape of which no 
 description can convey an adequate idea. Before noticing the special 
 objects of interest connected with the Lakes, it will be useful to 
 give Mr. Lacy's general description of these celebrated waters : — 
 
 " The Upper Lake, the Middle or Tore Lake, and the Lower 
 
 e 2 
 
52 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 Lake, communicate with each other, and were early known under 
 the general designation of Lake Lene. Indeed, the three lakes are 
 in reality one vast sheet of water, divided only by islands and 
 narrow channels, the passage between the Lower and Middle Lakes 
 being so circumscribed as not to exceed a small bridge's length. 
 These lakes are in the centre of a range of lofty mountains — one 
 of which is among the most elevated hills in Ireland — which are 
 generally clothed or dotted with evergreen shrubs and stately 
 forest trees of magnificent growth, from the base almost to the 
 summit. The Upper Lake lies quite embosomed in the moun- 
 tains ; the other two, being at the exterior base of the chain of 
 hills, are bounded on one side alone by mountains. In the 
 opposite direction, which may be called the east and north, they 
 unfold themselves to an open and cultivated country, whose surface 
 is enriched and diversified by innumerable undulations, which 
 occasionally swell into finely rounded hills. The Middle and 
 Lower Lakes are nearly upon the same level, and lie contiguous 
 to each other, being separated merely by the narrow peninsula, 
 Muckross, and the small islands known as Brickeen and Dinis, 
 between which there are channels for boats. From the Middle 
 Lake the Upper stands about three miles distant, and is situated 
 at the head of a navigable river, which flows through a romantic 
 valley or defile that bears the name of the Long Range. Near 
 the termination of its course this river divides into tAvo branches, 
 one of which flows in peaceful tranquillity towards the west, and 
 falls into the Bay of Glena, in the Lower Lake ; while the other, 
 forcing its way through a rocky channel in a north-easterly 
 direction, issues with considerable impetuosity into the Middle 
 Lake, under the rich woods of Dinis Island. The river separates 
 
MUNSTER. S3 
 
 immediately after passing the Old Weir Bridge ; and the beautiful 
 place where the waters of the three lakes mingle is called ' The 
 Meeting of the Waters.' These celebrated lakes are considered to 
 be about thirty miles in circumference ; and the distance between 
 the two extreme points — the head of the Upper Lake and the river 
 Laune, which is situated at the foot of the Lower Lake — is about 
 eleven miles. The Laune forms the outlet for the waters of the 
 lakes, by which they are conveyed to the harbour of Castlemaine, 
 where they fall into the great Atlantic. The Long Range, as a 
 matter of course, is included in the above estimated distance of 
 eleven miles ; while the greatest width does not exceed two and 
 a half miles. In the Upper Lake there are several islands, but 
 none of large size ; in the Middle Lake there are only two, which 
 are also of small size ; while the Lower Lake contains upwards of 
 thirty, including islands, islets, and island rocks." 
 
 The tour of the Lakes is usually commenced at Lord Brandon's 
 cottage, which is situated close to the Upper Lake. McCarthy 
 More's Island is the first object pointed out by the boatmen. The 
 origin of the name is uncertain. It is matter of history that the 
 county Kerry at ODe period was owned by two chiefs, 0' Sullivan 
 and McCarthy : one of the McCarthys may have dwelt or found 
 refuge on the island. 
 
 A cluster of islands is next met with, of which Ronan's Island 
 is the largest. This island is said to have derived its name from 
 an Englishman, who, being attracted by its romantic situation, 
 made it his home, and continued to dwell upon it for many years 
 in complete seclusion, avoiding all society, and seldom leaving it 
 except to shoot or fish. Eagle Island and Duck and Stag Islands 
 are others of the same group. 
 
54 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 Arbutus Island is one of the largest on the Upper Lake. It is 
 completely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. 
 All the islands have a share of this " myrtle of Killarney," and 
 the roadsides in the vicinity are plentifully adorned with it. 
 Juniper Island is also pointed out, which, as may be supposed, 
 derives its appellation from the trees of that name which so 
 plentifully grow upon it. 
 
 Though the smallest of the three, the Upper Lake is remarkable 
 for its wild magnificence and fine mountain girdle. Perfectly dis- 
 tinct in the character of its romantic scenery from that of the 
 Tore and Lower Lake, it combines many of the softer beauties 
 of wood and water with all the stern sublimity of mountain 
 scenery. Embosomed amidst majestic mountains, whose fan- 
 tastical summits pierce the sky, the lake appears to be completely 
 landlocked. " At various points bright mountain streams may be 
 seen pouring down the glens and deep ravines — now leaping from 
 rock to rock, and flashing, like living silver, in the broad sunlight ; 
 now glittering in the shade of the dark foliage, till they are lost 
 in the shining waters of the broad lake. A number of islets of 
 the most picturesque forms are also scattered over its surface : 
 some of them are mere masses of naked rocks ; others, on the 
 contrary, are redundant in vegetation, producing trees, shrubs, and 
 plants in the wildest profusion ; amongst which the arbutus, with 
 its tempting berries, and the mountain-ash, with its scarlet clusters 
 glowing through the dark shining foliage of the holly-tree, are 
 prominently conspicuous in the autumn season. In several 
 instances the action of the water has worn away the lower parts 
 of the rocks composing these islands, giving to the overhanging 
 portions the resemblance of masses of giant architecture, thrown 
 
MUNSTER. 55 
 
 confusedly together by some convulsion of nature. In other 
 places the rocks are completely perforated, forming natural arches, 
 sufficiently large for boats to pass through." 
 
 On the eastern side of this lake is Derrycunnihy Cascade, so 
 much admired by her Majesty the Queen when she paid her visit 
 to the Lakes in the autumn of 1861. 
 
 At the eastern end the lake narrows into a lovely creek or inlet, 
 the entrance to which is between two lofty crags. Within these 
 lies a spacious and beautiful sheet of water, hemmed in by rugged 
 precipitous rocks and thick overhanging trees. This charming 
 retreat has received from the boatmen the unexpressive name of 
 Newfoundland. To the north of this bay begins the Long Kange, 
 — a river about three miles long, connecting the Upper with the 
 Middle Lake. Throughout this channel every rock or islet has its 
 name or legend. About midway is the far-famed Eagle's Nest ; 
 it is a rugged, cone-shaped mountain, about 1,700 feet in height, 
 thickly wooded at its base, but bare towards the summit. Among 
 the crags of this rock the eagle builds its eyry, and from this 
 circumstance the mountain derives its name. At this spot also 
 may be evoked one of the most charming of the Killarney echoes. 
 " To produce the desired effect, a small cannon is sometimes dis- 
 charged ; each explosion awakening a succession of echoes, like 
 peals of thunder, breaking on the startled ear with a deafening 
 crash that seems to shake the mountain to its granite foundations, 
 and followed by another and another till the reverberations are lost 
 in the hoarse and indistinct murmurs of the distant hills. A 
 bugle sounded under the Eagle's Nest produces, on the contrary, a 
 series of wild and solemn melodies." 
 
 Passing some minor objects of interest, we come to the Old 
 
56 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 Weir Bridge, which consists of two arches, only one of which, 
 however, affords a passage for boats. The waters of the Upper 
 Lake, rushing through this bridge with considerable impetuosity, 
 create a strong current, which the boatmen designate " The 
 Rapids." We are now in the Middle Lake, called also Muckross 
 and Tore Lake, and opposite Dinis Island. On it is built a 
 cottage, furnished with every requisite for the entertainment of 
 visitors. Here, by arrangement with the hotel-keeper, dinner may 
 be in waiting for the tourist. This island, which is of considerable 
 extent, is well wooded, and commands a fine view of Tore Moun- 
 tain. The Middle Lake is not so much esteemed by tourists ; it 
 is less crowded with islands than the other lakes, and partakes 
 more of the character of English lake scenery ; nevertheless, it is 
 a magnificent sheet of water. The principal islands are Dinis 
 and Brickeen, which separate it from the Lower and larger lake. 
 Brickeen seems a continuation of the peninsula of Muckross, from 
 which a narrow stream separates it. Upon this peninsula is the 
 far-famed Muckross Abbey. 
 
 Tore Mountain, from its noble appearance and great altitude, is 
 a striking feature in our view. It is 1,764 feet in height, and 
 rises on the southern shore "of the Middle Lake, to which it also 
 gives the name of Tore Lake. The Cascade, which is formed on 
 this mountain, properly speaking belongs to the Great Mangerton, 
 as it is fed by the overflowing of the Devil's Punch-bowl on a part 
 of its summit. The visitor is admitted by a gate which leads to a 
 path lined with holly, arbutus, and other evergreens. As he 
 ascends, the rush of waters is heard ; at a sudden turning the 
 cataract suddenly bursts upon the view. At times the torrent 
 is very great, and its waters are precipitated in a sheet of white 
 

 T©]E€ SfifDOT'lFAm, JFMSfl MOTS 2S3LAS?®< 
 
MUNSTER. 
 
 57 
 
 foam over a projection of the rock, from a height of sixty or 
 seventy feet, forming numerous cascades in its descent. Its 
 waters then resume their inrpetuous course through a narrow 
 ravine, amidst plantations of fir and pine trees, and tastefully 
 arranged pleasure-grounds, until they fall into the lake. A wind- 
 ing pathway leads to a spot from whence is obtained a fine view 
 of the Middle and Lower Lakes. On ascending still higher a 
 panorama of unrivalled beauty is unfolded, perhaps not equalled 
 even in Ireland. 
 
 On the eastern shores of the Middle and Lower Lakes are situated 
 the ruins of the renowned Muckross Abbey. This famous abbey, 
 which was formerly called Irelagh, was founded by the McCarthys 
 in 1440. It owes its present state of preservation to repairs which 
 it received in 1602, and subsequently in 1662. The church con- 
 sisted of a nave and choir, separated by a small belfry, which is 
 pierced by a narrow Gothic door connecting the nave and choir. 
 Within the walls of Muckross Abbey some of the Irish kings are 
 supposed to be interred. The vault of the McCarthy Mores is placed 
 in the centre of the choir, and a stately monument designates the 
 resting-place of the O'Donoghues of the Glens. The tower, with its 
 slender and beautifully groined Gothic arches, is an interesting 
 monument of antiquity. The court-yard, which is of quadrangular 
 shape, the cloisters, and the matchless yew-tree in the centre of 
 the square, are also objects of great interest. The cloisters run 
 along the four sides of the court-yard, from which they are divided 
 by handsome Gothic arches. Those on the east and west are 
 different in their style of architecture from those on the north 
 and south ; one set of them being of Pointed character, and the 
 other Round, or Norman. The tree, which is eight hundred years 
 
5 8 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 old, has ever been regarded with the deepest religious veneration 
 by the peasantry, many of whom shrink back with terror on enter- 
 ing within its precincts. On the second storey above the range 
 of cloisters may be seen the library, the dining-hall, and the 
 kitchen, with various cellars and offices. An oratory or small 
 chapel is situated on the north side of the ruin. 
 
 The large fireplace of the kitchen Avas taken possession of for a 
 dormitory, by a hermit of the name of Drake, about a hundred 
 years ago. He lived here for eleven years. As may be conjec- 
 tured, his strange life gave rise to numerous tales more or less 
 improbable. The belief among the peasantry was, that he had 
 committed some crime which demanded severe atonement, and 
 that his penance was to be made within the precincts of Muckross 
 Abbey. He appeared to be under forty years of age, and made 
 no effort to gain a reputation for sanctity. He never asked alms, 
 nor would receive more at a time than a single penny ; he 
 never ate in any dwelling but his own, if so it might be called ; 
 and yet he had enough to pay for his potatoes and fish at all 
 times, and to bestow a halfpenny and his prayers on those who 
 seemed more miserable than himself. He was seldom, if ever, 
 seen at chapel, though he prayed daily at particular spots in the 
 abbey-yard, devoting the remainder of the day to the cultivation 
 of his garden. It was reported and believed that the anchorite 
 had frequent wrestlings in the flesh with the Evil One, and that it 
 was only by prayer and fasting he was able to overcome. He was 
 gentle and cheerful, kind to children, and was much respected by 
 the people. One day he was nowhere to be seen ; search was 
 made for him, but without success ; nothing was ever heard of 
 him. The conjectures as to his disappearance were numerous and 
 various. 
 

MUNSTER. 59 
 
 The portion of ground on the south of the church was for ages 
 the favourite cemetery of the peasantry of the surrounding dis- 
 trict ; and it was not uncommon for persons who died at great 
 distances from this place, to lay their injunctions on their friends 
 and relatives to have their remains conveyed thither for sepulture, 
 firmly convinced that their spirits would not enjoy rest if their 
 mortal part was consigned to any earth but that of the blessed 
 Muckross. 
 
 Muckross House, the elegant seat of H. A. Herbert, Esq., M.P. 
 for the county of Kerry, adjoins the Abbey. The mansion is a 
 highly ornamental building, in the Elizabethan style of architec- 
 ture, situated immediately north of the Great Mangerton. The 
 public are liberally allowed to walk and drive through these 
 lovely grounds. A good road makes the circuit of the domain 
 and the islands Brickeen and Dinis, and joins the high road about 
 a mile from Tore Cottage. 
 
 The Lower Lake, or Lough Lene, is much larger than either 
 of the other lakes. Its greatest length is five miles and breadth 
 three miles. There are upwards of thirty islands and rocks in 
 this lake, but very few of them are of large proportions. The 
 largest islands are Ross Island, Innisfallen, and Rabbit Island. 
 The chief features of the Lower Lake are its wide placid surface, 
 like an inland sea, with quite a ripple on its waves, and its nume- 
 rous islands, richly covered with evergreens, shrubs, and even ash 
 and other forest trees. Innumerable bays and inlets of surpassing 
 beauty indent its shores, affording charming and interesting- 
 retreats. 
 
 Passing under Brickeen Bridge into the Lower Lake, Glena Bay 
 is entered. On the shore stands the beautiful cottage and grounds 
 
6o SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 of Lady Kenmare, at the foot of Glena Mountain, which is richly- 
 covered with wood. Continuing along the south-western shore, 
 we come to 0' Sullivan's Cascade, which is shown to strangers as 
 one of the greatest beauties of Killarney. " The stream, which 
 bursts from the deep bosom of a woody glen, throws itself over 
 the face of a high perpendicular rock into a basin concealed from 
 the spectator's view ; from this basin it forces itself impetuously 
 between two rocks into another reservoir. This second fall is of 
 considerable height, but the third and lower one is the most 
 striking in its appearance. Each of these basins being large, there 
 appears a space of several yards between the three falls ; and the 
 whole being as it were embowered within a woody arch, the effect 
 is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful." 
 
 Ross Island is usually the first island visited in the Lower 
 Lake. It is more properly speaking a peninsula than an island, 
 being separated from the main land by an artificial channel which 
 is crossed by a bridge. Ross Island is about tAvo miles from 
 Killarney, and contains about eighty acres, plantation measure. 
 It has been beautifully laid out, and formed into rich plantations 
 and ornamental gardens, intersected with nice walks and pleasant 
 drives. On the southern point of the island we come upon a 
 copper mine, opened in 1804 by Colonel Hall. He obtained un- 
 doubted proof that the mine had been previously worked, but at a 
 very remote period, when mining as an art was utterly unknown. 
 Several rude stone hammers were discovered. A groove had 
 evidently been cut, or rather rubbed round them, so as to attach 
 them to a handle by a strap, perhaps of leather ; and the larger 
 end, against which the blows were struck, was obviously worn by 
 use. Another circumstance corroborative of the assumption that 
 
MUNSTER. 6 1 
 
 the mine had been previously worked, was that the miners found 
 the remains of fires all along the vein. These fires must have been 
 lit in order to consume the limestone in which the ore was bedded, 
 so as to form a natural smelting house in the quarry. 
 
 The principal historical object of interest on the island is the 
 fine ruin of Ross Castle, which, with its extensive lawn and other 
 appendages, covers an area of an acre of ground. " The watch or 
 warder's tower stands somewhat apart from the castle itself, three 
 guns being planted on the barbican, or outward wall. This once 
 formidable stronghold is not so much injured by the hand of time 
 as many others which are to be seen in this part of Ireland. It is 
 a tall, square embattled pile, based on a limestone rock, and is 
 supported by massive buttresses on the land side, while fortified 
 defences project at its north-east and north-west angles. There is 
 a grand room in the centre of the first storey of the castle, with a 
 large fireplace and a massive chimneypiece of coarse marble. The 
 summit, from which there are magnificent views, is approached by 
 a winding stone stairs of one hundred steps. This fine remnant 
 of the once strong and defensive hold, which afforded ample pro- 
 tection to the feudal chief and his numerous followers, is said to 
 have been erected about the fourteenth century by a descendant of 
 the race of O'Donoghue, the king of the district and lord of the 
 Lakes." 
 
 Ross Castle is famous in history as being the last in Munster 
 to hold out against the Parliamentary army. On the 26th July, 
 1652, Lord Muskerry had been defeated in the county Cork. 
 Retreating to Ross Castle, he held out against the repeated attacks 
 of General Ludlow. When, however, the garrison saw a number 
 of armed boats, each capable of containing one hundred and 
 
62 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 twenty men, which Ludlow placed on the lake, they became so 
 terrified, by the apparent fulfilment of a prophecy that the castle 
 could only be taken by vessels of war, that they lost all confidence, 
 and in their panic surrendered to the enemy. Ludlow, in his 
 memoirs, thus narrates the incident : — " When we had received 
 our boats, each of which was capable of containing one hundred 
 and twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about the 
 water, in order to find out the most convenient place for landing 
 upon the enemy ; which they perceiving,' thought fit, by a timely 
 submission, to prevent the danger that 'threatened them." 
 
 Many legends are told of the kings or chiefs who were the 
 ancient owners of this island. One of them relates to the 
 O'Donoghue of the Lakes, whose ruined castle we have just been 
 describing. By a species of enchantment he was said to have 
 been doomed to dwell beneath the waters of the lake, and there 
 must remain until by an annual, or, as some say, a septennial ride 
 over the surface of the lake, the silver shoes of his white horse 
 are worn out by coming in contact with its waves. Once every 
 seven years, on a fine morning, before the first rays of the sun 
 have begun to disperse the mists from the bosom of the lake, the 
 O'Donoghue comes riding over it on a beautiful snow-white horse, 
 intent upon household affairs, fairies hovering before him, and 
 strewing his path with flowers. As he approaches his ancient 
 residence everything returns to its former state of magnificence : 
 his castle, his library, his prison, and his pigeon-house are repro- 
 duced as in olden time. Those who have courage to follow him 
 over the lake may cross even the deepest parts dry-footed, and 
 ride with him into the opposite mountains, where, his treasures lie 
 concealed, and the daring visitor will receive a liberal gift in 
 
MUNSTER. 63 
 
 return for his company ; but before the sun has risen the 
 O'Donoghue recrosses the water, and vanishes amidst the ruins of 
 his castle. 
 
 The next island of importance is Innisfallen. Near it a small 
 rocky islet is pointed out, called O'Donoghue' s Prison. Here it is 
 said the renowned prince confined a disobedient son and some of 
 his rebellious associates. Innisfallen is universally admitted to be 
 the most beautiful and interesting of the Lake islands. At a dis- 
 tance the island aj>pears to be densely covered with timber and 
 gigantic evergreens. The trees are of larger growth than common, 
 the ash and holly thriving to the best advantage ; the arbutus 
 also flourishes here in abundance, its fine foliage adding much to 
 the charm of the scenery. This evergreen not only contributes to 
 the beauty of the Lakes, but supplies material for the manufacture 
 of pretty toys and useful articles, as well as furnishing the cele- 
 brated skivers on which salmon steaks are broiled for the refection 
 of hungry tourists. On landing, the interior of the island affords 
 views of lovely green glades and shady alleys. The rich and 
 varied sylvan scenery is very charming ; Avhile the undulating 
 surface, consisting of hill and dale, slope and plain, rock and 
 ravine, gives a picturesque completeness to the whole. 
 
 The Abbey of Innisfallen — of which some ruins are scattered 
 over the island — is said to have been founded by St. Finian 
 the Leper, in 600. The walls are of plain masonry. The most 
 interesting portion of the remains of antiquity is a small oratory 
 or chapel, in tolerable preservation, with a richly embellished 
 Norman doorway, one or two of the windows being in the same 
 style. "It appears that this island was originally called Innis 
 Nessan, from the father of the founder of its venerable abbey, who 
 
64 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 was descended from one of the most renowned Munster kings ; 
 but it was subsequently changed to its present name, as being 
 more descriptive of its natural beauty. In the course of time the 
 Abbey came under the rule of Eegular Canons of the Order of 
 St. Augustine, and became famous on account of the ' Annals of 
 Innisfallen,' compiled by some of the brethren. These annals, 
 which were written on vellum, have been carefully preserved, and 
 are now in the Bodleian Library, Oxford. They are regarded as being 
 amonsfst the earliest and most authentic of the ancient Irish records. 
 The manuscript contains fifty-seven quarto leaves, the earlier por- 
 tion comprising a history of ancient times down to the arrival of 
 St. Patrick in this country, in the year 432 ; and the remaining 
 part a history of Ireland to the commencement of the year 1320. 
 It is said to have been the work of two monks, the first bringing 
 down its annals to the year 1216, and the other conducting them 
 to the early part of 1320. A short extract, taken from the year 
 1180, furnishes a clear instance of the importance of the Abbey 
 at this period : — ' This Abbey of Innisfallen, being ever esteemed 
 a paradise and a secure sanctuary, the treasure and the most 
 valuable effects of the whole country were deposited in the hands 
 of the clergy ; notwithstanding which, we find the Abbey was 
 plundered in this year by Maolderin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue. 
 Many of the clergy were also slain, even in their sanctuary, by 
 the McCarthys. But God soon punished this act of impiety and 
 sacrilege by bringing many of its authors to an untimely end.' : 
 
 Among other objects of interest to be seen on Innisfallen is the 
 " Bed of Honour." This is a rude seat, formed on a ledge of rock 
 slightly projecting, which acquired this name from a story of a lady 
 who had eloped with her lover having slept during the night on 
 
MUNSTER. 65 
 
 this ledge, her lover keeping watch and ward over her throughout 
 the night. We will take leave of this lovely little island in the 
 appropriate farewell lines of the poet Moore : — 
 
 " Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, 
 
 May calm and sunshine long he thine, 
 How fair thou art, let others tell, 
 While hut to feel how fail' be mine. 
 
 " Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell 
 
 In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
 Which o'er thee on that evening fell, 
 AMien first I saw thy fairy isle." 
 
 Besides the islands we have mentioned there are numerous 
 small islets in the Lower Lake, with characteristic names, such as 
 Crane Island, the Cow Island, Paddy Blake's Island, the Burned 
 Island, the Swallow, the Jackdaw, and O'Donoghue's Coach-and- 
 Four. With all of these some legend or tale is connected, irre- 
 spective of their charms in picturesque beauty of rock and ever- 
 greens. We must not dwell longer on the lakes, but proceed to 
 note other renowned objects and scenes of interest in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 Leaving the town of Killarney, and proceeding in a north- 
 westerly direction for about two miles, a slight deviation to the 
 right leads to the venerable and interesting ruins of Aghadoe, 
 consisting of the remnant of a round tower, the walls of a small 
 cathedral church, and the base of a castle tower. The Church is a 
 low oblong building, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal 
 antiquity, lying east and west of each other ; that to the east is 
 in the Pointed style, date 1158, and dedicated to the Holy 
 .Trinity ; the other, or western chapel, is of an earlier peri* d, 
 between the sixth and twelfth centuries, in the Romanesque style, 
 
 F 
 
66 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 and was under the patronage of St. Fenian. An ornamented 
 doorway, although much injured by time, is still exceedingly 
 graceful and beautiful. Of the Castle the only remain is a frag- 
 ment of a tower about 30 feet in height. Nothing is known of 
 its foundation or occupation ; but as it is sometimes called " the 
 Pulpit," and sometimes " the Bishop's Chair," it has been conjec- 
 tured that it was originally the residence of the bishop of the 
 diocese. The masonry of the Round Tower is greatly superior to 
 that of the Church ; the stones being large, regular, and well 
 dressed. The greater part of the facing stone of the north side 
 has been unfortunately taken away for the erection of tombs in 
 the adjacent burying-ground. Within and without, the spoliator 
 has been effectually at work. 
 
 Regaining the road from which we diverged to visit Aghadoe, 
 we proceed due west, passing many fine residences, among them — 
 Aghadoe House ; Lake View House, the seat of Mr. James 
 O'Connell, brother of Daniel O'Connell ; Killalee House, and, close 
 at hand, the ruins of the Church of the same name ; the beautiful 
 demesne of Beaufort House, and the handsome place called Dunloe 
 Castle. 
 
 About two miles from the entrance of the Gap of Dunloe is a 
 singular cave. It is situated in a field close by the high road, and 
 was discovered, in 1838, by some labourers in constructing a sunk 
 fence. They broke into a subterranean chamber of a circular 
 form, the walls of which were of uncemented stones inclining in- 
 wards, with a roof also of long transverse stones. In the passage 
 were found several human skulls and bones. The Cave of Dunloe 
 must be regarded as an ancient Irish library, lately disinterred and 
 restored to the light. The books are the large impost stones which 
 
sfmrn 
 
 ' $jjl$8 
 
 : ©jyp ©if itoi 
 
 - . , . 
 
MUNSTER. 67 
 
 form the roof ; their angles contain the writing. A library of such a 
 literature was never heard of in England before, and scarcely in 
 Ireland ; and yet it is of the highest antiquity. The inscriptions 
 are in the Ogham character. It consists of sixteen letters repre- 
 sented by four arrangements of strokes, either upon a line, or, as 
 is more generally the case, upon the sharp edge of a stone. The 
 earliest written piece of Ogham writing, at present known, is in an 
 ancient vellum M.S. of the eleventh century, which was at one 
 time in the possession of Sir James Ware, and is now preserved in 
 the British Museum. 
 
 We noAV draw near to the mountain gorge which leads to the 
 celebrated Gap of Dunloe. Here the visitor meets with Kate 
 Kearney's cottage, where he is invited to partake of goat's milk, 
 flavoured with mountain dew. 
 
 The Gap of Dunloe is a notable place, notwithstanding some 
 diversity of opinion exists as to the merits of its claims to admira- 
 tion. Situated amidst scenery remarkable for its sylvan beaut}^ 
 the singular character of this deep and gloomy ravine is thrown 
 into striking contrast. The Gap is a wild and narrow mountain 
 pass, between the range of hills known as Macgillicuddy's Reeks 
 and the Purple Mountain, which is a shoulder of the Tomies. 
 The mountains which rise on either side, dark, stern, and barren, 
 with no great space between, impart a solemn grandeur to the 
 Pass. " The Glen, which is about four miles in length, presents a 
 most extraordinary appearance. On either hand, the cragg}^ cliffs, 
 composed of huge masses of projecting rocks, impend fearfully 
 over the narrow pathway, and at every step threaten with de- 
 struction the adventurous explorer of this desolate scene. In the 
 interstices of these immense fragments, a few shrubs and trees 
 
 !■■ 2 
 
68 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 shoot out in fantastic shapes, which, with the dark ivy and 
 luxuriant heather, contribute to the picturesque effect of the 
 landscape. A small but rapid stream, called the Loe (from 
 whence the name of the ravine), traverses the whole length of 
 the Glen, expanding itself at different points into five small lakes, 
 each having its own proper name, but which are known in the 
 asfsrreofate as the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes. The road, which is 
 
 DO o ' 
 
 a mere rugged footpath, constructed on the frequent brink of 
 precipices, follows the course of the stream, and in two instances 
 crosses it by means of bridges. One of these (seen in our view) 
 stands at the head of a beautiful rapid, where the water rushes 
 in whitening foam over the rocky bed of the torrent." 
 
 The passage through the Pass is made on ponies or afoot, the 
 guide pointing out the objects of interest as they occur. The road 
 for a short distance up the Gap keeps on the right of the stream, 
 passing the lake called Cosaun Lough. Farther on, it crosses the 
 stream before reaching Black Lough, where St. Patrick is said to 
 have banished the last Irish snake, and keeps to the left of Cust- 
 wally Lough and Auger Lough, finally crossing to the right before 
 reaching Black Lough. 
 
 The rocks along the Gap are of the most grotesque form, and 
 each has received some distinguishing name. One of them is 
 christened O'Donoghue's Hunting-rock, and another O'Donoghue's 
 Heart. On one side is pointed out the Bull, so called from its 
 bold and rugged appearance. Perhajis the best known feature of 
 the Pass is the Pike Rock, situated at the upper end of the Auger 
 Lake, where the valley becomes so contracted as scarcely to leave 
 room between the precipitous sides for the narrow pathway. 
 Although the mountains on either side are for the most part 
 
I 
 
 
 ©@MM3E BIHST, TIHE S33LAOT V.&L.I.ll'. 
 
MUNSTER. 69 
 
 bare, at intervals they present patches of cultivation, relieving 
 the somewhat gloomy barrenness of the scene. Occasionally the 
 deep gloom of the Pass is dispelled by the notes of the. guide's 
 bugle, or the discharge of cannon, evoking the magnificent echoes, 
 which pass from hill to hill. While making his way through the 
 Gap, the visitor will meet with women and young girls, each of 
 whom carries a bottle of goat's milk and a bottle of whiskey. 
 They are loud in their praises of this beverage, attributing to it 
 reviving and sustaining qualities of an extraordinary character. The 
 stranger cannot help regretting that so many promising young 
 persons should be compelled to earn a trifle in so precarious a 
 manner, and one so unsuited to their sex. 
 
 Emerging from, the Gap, what is called the Comme Dhuv, or the 
 Black Valley, displays itself— a wu'de and desolate hollow, sur- 
 mounted by the finest peaks of this mountain range. This vale 
 is considered by many more striking than the Gap of Dunloe. 
 " On our right," says Mr. Windele, in describing it, " lies the 
 deep, broad, desolate glen of Comme Dhuv ; an amphitheatre 
 buried at the base, and hemmed in by vast masses of the moun- 
 tain, whose rugged sides are marked by the courses of the descend- 
 ing streams. At the western extremity of the valley gloomily 
 reposes, amidst silence and shadows, one of those lakes, or rather 
 circular basins, of dark, still waters, ' Loch an brie dearg,' ' the lake 
 of the char or red trout.' Other lesser lakes dot the surface of 
 the moor, and, uniting, form at the side opposite the termination 
 of the Gap, a fine waterfall of considerable height, enjoying the 
 advantage not common to other falls in Ireland, of being plenti- 
 fully supplied with water at every season of the year." The 
 darkness and savage grandeur of the valley is not caused by any 
 
7o SCENEKF IN IRELAND. 
 
 excess of vegetation, what exists being, on the contrary, very 
 stunted, and sparingly scattered. The effect is produced by the 
 height of the hills surrounding the vale, and the immense quantity 
 of dissolved peaty matter in the water. When seen on a hot, 
 hazy day the view is truly weird-like and magical, reminding the 
 spectator of a composition by Salvator Rosa, or a fitting haunt of 
 the witches in Macbeth. " Had there been at the bottom," writes 
 Kohl, " among the rugged masses of black rock, some smoke and 
 flame instead of water, we might have imagined we were looking 
 into the entrance to the infernal regions." 
 
 The ascents of Macgillicuddy's Reeks and Mangerton are not 
 usually made by the ordinary tourist ; although, should the 
 weather prove favourable, the views from the summits of either 
 range are very fine. The Reeks have proved to be the highest 
 mountains in Ireland, Carrantuel, the loftiest point, rising to an 
 altitude of 3,414 feet, being 658 feet higher than Mangerton. 
 To the inexperienced, the ascent of Carrantuel is both difficult 
 and dangerous, and should only be attempted by those accus- 
 tomed to mountain climbing. " But the peak of the ridge once 
 gained, the prospect from thence will amply repay the toil of the 
 way. The scene is magnificent beyond conception. Beneath the 
 spectator's feet lies a sea of terrene billows, each with its own 
 blue lake, amongst which Lough Carragh is distinguished as the 
 broadest and fairest. At every turn they are seen in the sunlight 
 or shadowed by overhanging precipices. Of the Killarney Lakes, 
 a small portion only of the Lower Lake is visible, owing to the 
 interposition of the Tomies Mountains. A vast and uninterruped 
 view is also obtained from this elevated point, extending beyond 
 the Shannon on the north, and embracing in a westerly and 
 
MUNSTER. 7 1 
 
 southerly direction the bays of Tralee, Dingle, Castlemaine, Ken- 
 mare, Bantry, Pimm anus, with Cape Clear, and far beyond all, the 
 waters of the Atlantic Ocean, forming a dark line of horizon to the 
 immense picture." 
 
 Until lately, Mangerton was considered the highest mountain 
 in Ireland. The ascent is by no means difficult, and may be 
 made on ponies. Although not so wildly picturesque as the 
 Reeks, the views are very fine, a vast and commanding prospect 
 being gradually unfolded as the visitor ascends — mountains, plains, 
 and lakes, spreading like a map beneath. The great object of 
 attraction is the Devil's Punch-bowl, near the summit of the 
 mountain. This "Bowl" is a small lake, about a quarter of a 
 mile in diameter. Its waters, which appear of an inky blackness 
 from the dark nature of the surrounding peat-soil and the over- 
 hanging shadows of the rocks, are intensely cold, yet they have 
 never been known to freeze. The supply of water is principally 
 from springs, and the overflow forms the Tore Waterfall, already 
 described. 
 
 The summit is next reached, although the less enterprising 
 usually limit their ascent to the Punch-bowl. The view from the 
 mountain-top defies description. Should the weather be favour- 
 able, a magnificent panorama of the district is obtained. In the 
 far away distance is the broad Atlantic, with the river of Kenmare, 
 the Bay of Dingle, and the storm-beaten coast of lveragh. Mid- 
 way are the mountains — of all forms and altitudes, with their 
 lakes and cataracts, and streams of white foam. At our feet lie 
 the three Killarney Lakes, with Glena, and Tore, and Tomies. 
 
 The descent of Mangerton may be varied by turning aside to 
 visit Coom-na-goppel, — " The Glen of the Horse," — lying between 
 
?2 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 Mangerton and Stoompa. This lonely glen, surrounded on all 
 sides by perpendicular rocks, is about two miles in length, and 
 contains three small lakes, one called O'Donoghue's Ink Bottle, from 
 the darkness of its waters. Still farther east is Lough Guitane, of 
 considerable size, but possessing few attractions, except to the 
 
 angler. 
 
 The natural beauties of the county of Kerry are by no means 
 confined to its famous lakes. Tourists who have time at com- 
 mand will do well to visit the western sea-coast. The stupendous 
 masses of rock, which form headlands and protect the numerous 
 noble bays against the mighty waves of the Atlantic, the rocky 
 mountains which line the shores of the bays and harbours be- 
 tween the Shannon and Bantry Bay, are as fertile in scenes of 
 bold and striking grandeur as the most ardent admirer of pictorial 
 sublimity can desire. 
 
 To those who desire to see something of the attractions of the 
 Shannon, Limerick may be expeditiously reached by railway from 
 Killarney, the distance being about one hundred and one miles. 
 
LIMERICK AND CLARE. 
 
 Limerick City — The Cathedral — The Castle — The Upper Shannon — Falls of Doonas — 
 Castle-Connel — Killaloe — Lough Derg — The Lower Shannon — Ennis— Foynes — 
 Tarhert — Scattery Island — Kilrush — Kilkee — Cave of Kilkee — Puffing Rock — Ross 
 Bridges — Coast-line, County Clare — Hag's Head — Cliffs of Moher. 
 
 rPHE City of Limerick has been the scene of many interesting 
 and important historical events. It is situated on the river 
 Shannon, and is divided into three parts, the Irish town, the English 
 town, and Newtown-Pery, so-called after the family name of the Earl 
 of Limerick, on whose property it is built. The more ancient parts 
 of the city are narrow and gloomy, relieved, however, by cheering 
 glimpses of the Avaters of the Shannon. In the Newtown the 
 streets are spacious, cut each other at right angles, and are 
 occupied by elegant houses and merchants' stores, constructed of 
 brick and limestone, for which the neighbouring district supplies 
 the finest materials. At every opening to the westward salubrious 
 breezes from the Shannon inspire health and vigour. 
 
 Among the interesting features of this famous city are its fine 
 quays and magnificent bridges. Mathew Bridge (named after the 
 great Temperance advocate) is a strong and commodious fabric, 
 
74 SCENERV IN IRELAND. 
 
 erected in 1844. Baal's Bridge is a modern structure, built in 
 1842 on the site of the old one, which was of great antiquity. 
 Thormond Bridge connects English Town with the county of 
 Clare ; and less than a quarter of a mile to the west stands 
 Wellesley Bridge — one of the handsomest in Ireland — connecting 
 the county of Clare with Newtown-Pery. 
 
 St. Mary's Cathedral is a building of massive character and 
 ample proportions, the nave and choir being about 170 feet in 
 length by 30 feet in breadth, and the transept about 93 feet long 
 by 30. It is built in what may be called the Transition style. 
 Many of the monuments are highly interesting. The external 
 appearance of this ancient pile is grand and imposing, and is 
 rendered strikingly conspicuous by its battlemented walls and 
 magnificent square tower, 120 feet in height, which rises on its 
 western extremity. From this elevation a lovely panorama of the 
 Shannon is obtained. This venerable building has been referred to 
 the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. How it escaped the vicissi- 
 tudes of war is a marvel, especially when we recollect the protracted 
 sieges to which the city was subjected by the armies of Cromwell 
 and William III. The Cathedral possesses a chime of eight bells, 
 connected with which is the following touching story : — 
 
 "The remarkably fine bells of Limerick Cathedral were originally, 
 it is related, brought from Italy. They had there been manu- 
 factured by a young native (whose name tradition has not pre- 
 served) and finished after the toil of many years, and he prided 
 himself upon his work. They were purchased from him by the 
 prior of a neighbouring convent, and with the proceeds of this 
 sale the young Italian bought for himself a little villa near the 
 convent, so that he might have the pleasure of hearing the sweet 
 
MUNSTER. 
 
 75 
 
 tones of his own bells come pealing to him from the convent cliff, 
 and that he might grow old in the enjoyment of their sound and 
 of domestic happiness. This dream, however, was soon dispelled, 
 for ' in some of those broils, whether civil or foreign, which are 
 the undying worm in the peace of a fallen land, the good Italian 
 was a sufferer among many. He lost his all, and, after the passing 
 of the storm, found himself preserved alone amid the wreck of 
 fortune, friends, family, and home. The convent in which the 
 bells, the chefs-d'oeuvre of his skill, were hung, was razed to the 
 ground, and his much-loved bells carried away to another land. 
 Haunted by his memories, and deserted by his hopes, he became 
 a wanderer upon the earth, and his hair grew grey, and his heart 
 withered before he again found a home and a friend. In this 
 desolation of spirit he formed the resolution of seeking the 
 country and the place to which these treasures of his memory had 
 been finally borne. He sailed for Ireland, and proceeded up the 
 Shannon. The vessel anchored in a j^ool near Limerick, and he 
 hired a small boat for the purpose of landing. The city was now 
 before him, and he beheld St. Mary's steeple lifting its turreted 
 head above the smoke and mist of the old town. He sat in the 
 stern, and looked fondly towards it. It was an evening so calm 
 and beautiful as to remind him of his own native haven in the 
 sweetest time of the year — the death of the spring. The broad 
 stream appeared like one smooth mirror, and the little vessel glided 
 through it with almost a noiseless expedition. On a sudden, 
 amid the general stillness, the bells tolled from the cathedral ; 
 the rowers rested on their oars, and the vessel went forward with 
 the impulse it had received. The old Italian looked towards tho 
 city, crossed his arms on his breast, and lay back in his seat — . 
 
7 6 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 home, happiness, early recollections, friends, family — all were in 
 the sound, and went with it to his heart. When the rowers 
 looked up, they beheld him with his face still turned towards the 
 cathedral, from whence the sweet sound of his own bells were 
 softly pealing, but his eyes were closed, and when they landed him 
 they found him cold and dead.' 
 
 "That there was originally some foundation for this touching 
 legend is more than probable, but if so it belonged to a much 
 earlier set of bells than those which now hang in the Cathedral 
 tower, the oldest of which dates back only to the year 1613, and 
 all of which are of home manufacture." * 
 
 King John's Castle is the principal and most important specimen 
 of the ancient fortresses of the city ; even in its ruins it is a 
 noble structure. " It consists at present of a quadrangular area, 
 surrounded by an uncommonly thick and well-built wall. The 
 entrance in the west front, which faces Castle Street, was by a 
 slender door approached by a flight of steps, above which appear 
 the royal arms of England, of comparatively modern construction. 
 This entrance is flanked on each side by an immensely strong 
 circular tower, surmounted by embrasure battlements. Between 
 these towers and the two others of equally massive character, 
 which rise one on each extremity of this side of the quadrangle, 
 the curtain wall is prepared for defence by strong embrasures. 
 On the north front, which faces the Shannon, and the suburbs on 
 the Clare side, extends a defensive wall of massive proportions, 
 with a characteristic circular tower, corresponding in strength and 
 appearance with those which line the western front, upon the 
 summit of which large guns are mounted." Within the central 
 
 * Llewellynn Jewitt. 
 
MUNSTER. 77 
 
 area, which formed the site of the grand keep, military barracks 
 have been erected. This castle is considered to be the finest 
 example of a Norman stronghold to be met with in the country. 
 
 The public buildings of the city are handsome and commodious, 
 and the churches and public institutions worthy of inspection. 
 
 "Limerick," says a lively tourist, "justly celebrated for its 
 hooks, is far more to be admired for its eyes ; for, although the 
 former are the best in the world, the latter are much more 
 killing." Its lasses have the credit of being the fairest of Eve's 
 fair daughters. Flax and lace are among the chief manufactures ; 
 and the city has an extensive trade in provisions. Large quan- 
 tities of salmon are caught in the Shannon, and trout in its tribu- 
 taries. History records that salmon was sold in Limerick market 
 at a penny per pound ; and the indentures of aj^prentices used to 
 stipulate that they should not be compelled to eat that fish for 
 dinner more than three times a week. 
 
 But to the tourist the real glory of Limerick is the Shannon, 
 broad and deep — somewhat given to overflowing. The follow- 
 ing is a sketch of the course of this " king of island rivers," as it 
 has been called : — 
 
 " Lough Allen, in the county of Leitrim, supplied by streams 
 from the high and rugged mountains by which it is surrounded, 
 forms the source in which the Shannon is considered to rise. 
 The Lake is about ten miles long, and is deeply imbedded in lofty 
 hills, which contain rich and copious stores of iron and coal. Out 
 of Lough Allen the river flows in a narrow and rather shallow and 
 impeded channel ; occasionally, however, widening into small 
 lakes between the counties of Leitrim and Roscommon to Lanes- 
 borough, where it expands into the great Lough Ree, twent}^ miles 
 
78 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 long, and in some parts four broad. For thirty-seven miles, to 
 Portumna, the channel is more confined ; but it is still a bold and 
 wide river. From Portumna to Killaloe its course is through 
 Lough Derg, the largest of the Shannon Lakes, being twenty-three 
 miles long. At Killaloe it resumes the character of an ordinary 
 river ; but the navigation thence to Limerick is contracted and 
 difficult. From Limerick to its mouth, the Shannon is a tideway, 
 and appears, in fact, a great estuary or arm of the sea." 
 
 Throughout this course of about two hundred and forty miles, 
 it waters ten counties — now as a narrow stream, then a wide 
 glassy lake ; now placid and calm, surrounded by rich meadows or 
 luxuriant woods, and then dashing down a rugged and uneven 
 bed in mimic cataracts. 
 
 This last picturesque feature of the Shannon may be seen at its 
 best but a few miles from Limerick. At the Falls of Doonas 
 the whole body of the river dashes over a mass of rocks which 
 descend for the distance of half a mile, forming a series of im- 
 petuous cascades. The town of Castle-Connel, with its fine 
 mansions and grounds, forms part of the landscape and adds much 
 to the beauty of the scene. On the Limerick side of the river 
 there is a charming walk, which commands a view of the stream 
 as it rolls and tumbles in wild confusion over the rugged and 
 water-worn rocks. The rapids can be seen, if possible, to still 
 greater advantage from the fine mansion called Doonas House, as 
 the principal falls are on the Clare side of the river. To denizens 
 on the Thames the novelty of the scene is particularly striking. 
 A writer judiciously remarks : — " It is only in the streams and 
 rivulets of England that rapids are found ; the larger rivers gene- 
 rally glide smoothly on, without impediment from rocks. The 
 
--V 
 
 s 
 
 ... 
 
 <^tOT©H!: 
 
 
MUNSTEJR. 79 
 
 Thames, Trent, Mersey, and Severn, when they lose the character 
 of streams and become rivers, hold a noiseless course ; but the 
 Shannon, larger than all the four, here pours an immense body of 
 water — which above the rapids is 40 feet deep, and 300 yards 
 wide — through and above a congregation of huge rocks, which 
 extend nearly half a mile, and offers not only an unusual scene, 
 but a spectacle approaching much nearer the sublime than any 
 moderate-sized stream can offer, even in its highest cascade." 
 
 The lover of the picturesque should not leave Limerick without 
 
 paying a visit to Castle-Connel, which is six miles from the 
 
 city, and can be reached by rail. It is said to have derived its 
 
 name from the ruined castle of the kings of Minister, the warlike 
 
 O'Briens. The extensive ruins are still conspicuous on the top 
 
 of a high and solitary rock above the river ; the ivy-clad side 
 
 wall of the stronghold, and the lofty arch at its eastern extremity, 
 
 present features of a truly imposing character. " The connecting 
 
 wall that extended from the north side of the tower to the portions 
 
 which are still standing on the north and east points of the rocky 
 
 elevation, has fallen, and dense masses of the closely cemented 
 
 masonry are to be seen lying within the still surrounding walls, 
 
 and at the base of the steep acclivity. One gigantic fragment in 
 
 its fall bounded across the broad roadway which sweeps round the 
 
 base of the hill, and, notwithstanding its having fallen from such 
 
 a height, still remains a compact mass of some dozen feet square." 
 
 The castle was garrisoned by General Ireton in 1651, while on 
 
 his march to besiege Limerick. It was also strongly garrisoned 
 
 by the troops of James II. in 1G90. After its final surrender it 
 
 was blown up by General de Ginkell. 
 
 The Protestant church of Castle-Connel, pleasantly situated on 
 
8o SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 a richly planted hill, is a pretty and interesting structure. There 
 are several beautiful monuments in this church, one of more than 
 ordinary interest to the memory of the youthful Viscount Fitz- 
 gibbon, who fell at Balaklava. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the village is a chalybeate spring, which 
 is much resorted to by the citizens of Limerick. Besides the 
 attractions of the spa, and the beautiful scenery, Castle-Connel is 
 frequented in the angling season by salmon-fishers. At this place 
 may be said to commence the rapids of the Shannon, which from 
 here to Limerick excite the admiration of the beholder. The most 
 remarkable of the falls we have already pictured and described. 
 
 About six miles farther up the river is Killaloe, in the county of 
 Clare, about twenty miles from Ennis. It is a place of great antiquity, 
 at one time called Laonia ; its present name is supposed to be a cor- 
 ruption of Kill-da-Lua. The Cathedral is a large cruciform build- 
 ing, with a heavy tower in the centre. Its general style is Norman, 
 and it is referred to the twelfth century. Adjoining the Cathedral 
 is the Church of St. Molua, an interesting structure, supposed to 
 have been erected in the seventh century. The town is now de- 
 pendent on the fisheries and slate quarries in the neighbourhood. 
 
 A discriminating tourist thus describes the scenery of the dis- 
 trict : — " The mountain scenery in the neighbourhood of Killaloe 
 is exceedingly grand, the chain on the Clare side of the Shannon 
 displaying, as it sweeps from north to south, features of great 
 sublimity ; while that on the Limerick side, extending from north 
 to east, and terminating at the eastern extremity of the lofty 
 Keeper Mountain, at the end of which are the bounds of the coun- 
 ties of Limerick and Tipperary, exhibits traits of equal magnificence 
 and grandeur." 
 
mmm0wm 
 
 iASJM©3 
 
MUNSTER. 8 1 
 
 The appearance of the Shannon at Killaloe is picturesque 
 and beautiful, its course being interrupted by a ridge of rocks, 
 over which the waters thunder in time of flood. A curious 
 old bridge of nineteen arches here crosses the river, forming a 
 beautiful object in the landscape, as seen in our engraving. At a 
 short distance south of the town, on the western bank of the 
 Shannon, is the palace of the Protestant bishop of the diocese. 
 
 From Killaloe, a pleasant trip of about a mile may be made to 
 Lough Derg, the largest lake in the course of the Shannon. The 
 Lough is twenty-three miles long, and varies from two to six in 
 breadth. It is bordered by magnificent mountains, and contains 
 many islands, the whole forming one of the grandest and most 
 beautiful views in Ireland. 
 
 The Shannon below Limerick is a broad and noble stream, and 
 should the steamers run from the city direct to Kilrush, the 
 tourist will be able to enjoy the fine river scenery by this route. 
 A more expeditious way of reaching Kilrush is by rail from 
 Limerick to Foynes. At the latter place a steamer, in connection 
 with the train, carries passengers across to Kilrush. 
 
 Passing down the river, many beautiful demesnes and old 
 ruins are seen. On the Clare side is the broad estuary of the 
 river Fergus, which runs past Clare Castle and Ennis, the assize 
 town of the county. Ennis is situated nearly in the centre, of the 
 county, and is a place of some importance, possessing fine ruins. 
 On the Limerick side, near this point, the river Deel, which flows 
 downward from Askeaton, loses itself in the Shannon. This town 
 is famous for the ruins of its abbey. Foynes is next reached, with 
 its fine harbour, having a depth of 50 feet at low water. It was 
 proposed to make this place a station for the American mail- 
 
 G 
 
8 2 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 packets ; the navigation of the Shannon being perfectly open from 
 the mouth of the river to this harbour. After passing the town 
 of Glin and its fine Castle, the steamer arrives at Tarbert, where 
 there is a capacious landing-pier with a lighthouse. 
 
 From Tarbert the steamer crosses to Kilrush. About one mile 
 off the shore of the latter place lies the far-famed Scattery Island, 
 on which stands one of the finest of the Irish Round Towers, and 
 the ruins of " seven churches." " During the early ages of 
 Christianity this island was one of the most celebrated places of 
 religious resort in Ireland, a monastery having been founded here 
 in the sixth century by St. Senanus. Some writers state that 
 this monastery was founded by the great apostle, St. Patrick, who 
 placed it under the superintendence of his illustrious contemporary. 
 So celebrated was the character for sanctity which this place 
 acquired, that large numbers of monks and holy men came from 
 Rome to place themselves under the protection of St. Senanus, who 
 erected seven churches on the island for his enlarged community, 
 and such was the seclusion and austerity in which they lived, that 
 no female was permitted to land upon the island." St. Senanus 
 is said to have refused to receive even St. Camera, whom an angel 
 had taken to the island, for the express purpose of introducing 
 her to him. The fame of the austere saint has been extended far 
 beyond his native isle by one of Moore's melodies, entitled, " St. 
 Senanus and the Lady" : — 
 
 " * Ah ! haste and leave this sacred isle, 
 Unholy bark, ere morning smile, 
 For on thy deck, though dark it be, 
 
 A female form I see ; 
 And I have sworn this sainted sod 
 Shall ne'er by woman's feet be trod.' 
 
MUNSTER. 83 
 
 " ' father, send not hence my hark ; 
 Through wintry winds, o'er hillows dark, 
 I come with humhle heart to share 
 Thy morn and evening prayer ; 
 Nor mine the feet, oh ! holy saint, 
 The brightness of thy sod to taint.' 
 
 " The lady's prayer Senanus spurn' d, 
 The wind blew fresh, and the bark return' d ; 
 But legends hint, that had the maid 
 
 Till morning's light delay' d, 
 And given the saint one rosy smile, 
 She ne'er had left his lonely isle." 
 
 Kilrusli is a pretty and favourite summer resort, affording fine 
 views of the Shannon, which is here eight miles broad. It is 
 eight miles from Kilkee, on Moore Bay, formerly a mere fishing 
 village, but now a fashionable watering-place. The town, which 
 commands a fine view of the bay, is built close to the sea, and is 
 remarkable for its cleanliness. The beach presents a smooth, 
 white, sandy surface, nearly a mile in extent, where visitors can 
 enjoy the exhilarating breeze from the wide Atlantic. 
 
 Great as are the attractions of Kilkee as a bathing-place, the 
 town owes its chief popularity to the cliff scenery and natural 
 curiosities of the coast in the neighbourhood. These are un- 
 rivalled in the kingdom. Among them are the Amphitheatre, 
 which takes its name from its nearly circular form, and the 
 manner in which the projecting shelves of rock are formed, resem- 
 bling as they do the seats in the area of a building of this descrip- 
 tion ; the Diamond Rocks, so called from the crystals which are 
 found in their veins ; the Cave ; the Puffing Cavern ; and the 
 celebrated Ross Bridges. 
 
 The Cave of Kilkee is about two miles from the town. In 
 favourable weather the cavern may be entered by a small boat. 
 The arched entrance is about 60 feet in height, which diminishes 
 
 G 2 
 
84 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 to 30 feet on penetrating about 300 feet into the cave. The roof 
 presents a beautiful variety of metallic tinges, from the mineral 
 substances held in solution by the water, which continually drops 
 from the top, giving increased effect to the light thrown in at the 
 entrance, which forms a striking contrast with the darkness at the 
 upper end. 
 
 The Puffing Rock is about 50 feet high and 30 feet square, and 
 has an opening down through the middle to a large chamber 
 beneath ; and when the breakers are driven in by strong wind 
 and tide, after filling the lower space, the water is spouted 
 up through the aperture like graceful feathery plumes, and descend- 
 ing in mist, produces, when the sun shines brightly, a most vivid 
 and beautiful iris. 
 
 About a quarter of a mile from the Puffing Cavern are the re- 
 markable Ross Bridges. These two curious and picturesque objects 
 extend across a natural canal or inlet, which appears as if cut out 
 of the solid rock, and varies from 50 to 60 feet in breadth, and 
 about a quarter of a mile in length. When the tide is at half-flow, 
 the rushing waves of the Atlantic pass over the layers of flat rocks 
 which form the bed of the channel, sweeping beneath the lower 
 rocky bridge, and dashing upward, pass under the still higher and 
 larger arch of the second bridge. In receding, the waves produce 
 various picturesque cascades in the worn and hollowed caves on 
 either sides of the foaming channel. These bridges, although of 
 the same geological formation, are quite different in their general 
 outlines. That which is nearest to the upper end of the canal, 
 appears as if cut out of the solid rock, and consists of a single 
 arch of fine proportions. The span of the arch is about 70 feet, 
 the height from the bottom of the rocky valley which it crosses is 
 
MUNSTER. 85 
 
 5 feet, the thickness of the crown 1 8 feet, and the width of the 
 grassy roadway on the top 30 feet. The other bridge is still more 
 remarkable, the roadway being perfectly level, both on the upper 
 and under surfaces ; and hence the interest it excites in the mind 
 of the scientific observer, as to how so great a mass can be sup- 
 ported without a curve underneath. The span of this arch is 
 about 45 feet, the thickness of the crown 9 feet, and the width of 
 the rocky pathway on the top 30 feet. When the tide is out, the 
 canal or rocky ravine may be traversed, and the under sides of 
 the bridges inspected. 
 
 North of Kilkee the whole of the iron-bound shore of the county 
 of Clare, with its bays and giant cliffs, extends to Galway Bay. 
 North of Liscannor Bay is the promontory of Hag's Head, in the 
 central part of which are the well-known Cliffs of Moher, which 
 extend for two or three miles in length, and rise at one part 
 to a height of 700 feet above the sea as a perpendicular wall. 
 There are few districts in Ireland where the lover of cliff scenery, 
 or the geologist, will derive more pleasure than in strolling along 
 the coast of Clare. 
 
PART III.— ULSTEE. 
 
 FERMANAGH, DONEGAL, LONDONDERRY, ANTRIM, AND 
 
 ARMAGH. 
 
FERMANAGH, DONEGAL, AND LONDONDERRY. 
 
 The North of Ireland — Enniskillen — Lough Erne : its Islands, Ruins, and general 
 features — County Fermanagh — Ballyshannon — The Salmon -leap — Bundoran — 
 County Donegal — Kilharron Castle — The "Pullins" Gap — Lough Derg: Station 
 Island and St. Patrick's Purgatory — Donegal Town, Castle, and Abbey — Mount 
 Charles — Lough Esk — Pass of Barnes — Lough Mourne — Curious method of pike- 
 fishing — Stranorlar to Strahane — Londonderry — Coleraine. 
 
 nnHE eastern and southern portions of Ireland, comprising tlie 
 scenery of Wicklow and the Lakes of Killarney, have been 
 visited and briefly described ; the scenery of the Shannon has also 
 been noticed. It is noAV proposed to run through the north 
 of Ireland, which, in addition to the Giant's Causeway, possesses 
 picturesque attractions equal to those already pictured. In these 
 slight sketches, moving as we do, rapidly from point to point, 
 the difficulty is to make selection among so many subjects of 
 attraction, due regard being paid to the limits of the work. 
 
 The tourist whose opportunities only permit him to visit the 
 Giant's Causeway and the coast of Antrim, will proceed from 
 Dublin direct to Belfast, thence by the Northern Counties Railway 
 to Portrush ; . while those who have time at command, may make a 
 pleasant and profitable tour to Enniskillen and Lough Erne, then re 
 
90 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 diverging to the maritime county of Donegal, and then proceed- 
 ing to the Giant's Causeway through Londonderry and Coleraine, 
 returning by way of Belfast. By this route the tourist will get a 
 glimpse of most of the northern counties. 
 
 The traveller intending to make the above trip proceeds from 
 Dublin to Mullingar, a place of some importance, and the assize 
 town of the county Westmeath. The line here diverges to Cavan, 
 thence to Enniskillen. This is the chief town in the county Fer- 
 managh. It is charmingly situated on an island formed by the wind- 
 ings of the river or strait which connects the Upper and Lower 
 Loughs Erne. The town is connected with the mainland by two 
 bridges, and consists principally of one long street, running north 
 and south. The Protestant church is a very fine building. The bar- 
 racks, which are large and commodious, and suited to accommodate 
 artillery and infantry, are situated in the western part of the town. 
 
 The principal feature in the county Fermanagh is the unrivalled 
 scenery of Lough Erne, the lake next in beauty to Killarney. 
 Properly speaking, it may be said to consist of two lakes : the 
 Upper Lake being about twelve miles in length and four and a 
 half in breadth, and the Lower Lake being nearly twenty miles in 
 length and about seven miles in its greatest breadth. Both are 
 studded with numerous islands, the Upper containing as many as 
 one hundred and nine, and the Lower ninety. Of these islands, 
 Devenish, situated about two miles from Enniskillen, in the entrance 
 to the Lower Lake, is the most deserving of a visit. It contains 
 between seventy and eighty acres of remarkably fertile land. Here 
 are the ruins of several ancient churches and a Round Tower, one 
 of the most perfect and beautiful in Ireland. These buildings 
 have been thus described : — 
 

 
ULSTER. 91 
 
 " Of the monastic remains, that called the ' Upper Church ' 
 is the most perfect and the most modern, or probably has been re- 
 edified at a later period. The basement story of the tower is 
 groined, and in the ceiling are two apertures, coeval with the 
 building, through which bell-ropes were formerly passed. A small 
 pointed doorway leads to a spiral staircase, by which the battle- 
 ments of the tower are reached. The masonry — sculpture it 
 might be called — is very remarkable : the angles of the archi- 
 traves being delicately fluted, and finished equally at top as at 
 bottom, produce an effect both light and graceful. At the height 
 of 5 feet from the floor, and adjoining the entrance to the belfry, 
 is a mural tablet bearing an inscription in ancient characters. 
 There is a second doorway in the south wall, with an ornamental 
 architrave, above which, in a canopied niche, were the arms of the 
 founder, or of some benefactor to the priory. The stone used in 
 building of the tower is a beautiful grey limestone, susceptible of 
 a high polish ; one of the varieties found in the district adjoining 
 the lake. The Nunnery, or Lower Church, according to the local 
 nomenclature, is of a more ancient date than the priory, and much 
 more dilapidated. The eastern window, still perfect, is rudely 
 executed, and divided into three compartments, with lancet heads, 
 and banded on the inside ; and in the southern wall are two 
 circular-headed windows of later construction, illuminating a 
 baptistry just below them. The length of the church is 86 feet, a 
 fact that in a few years more must be gathered exclusively from 
 the records of its fate. The cell or crypt of the titutar saint is 
 wholly unroofed ; the side-walls and gable indicate the strength of 
 the cement used in the erection ; and from the remnants of the 
 stone roof yet visible, the ceiling appears to have been coved 
 
9 2 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 and separated by a void from an exterior angular roof, also of 
 stone, in the manner of St. Kevin's Kitchen, at Glendalough." 
 
 The Cemetery of the ancient religious establishment has long 
 been regarded with peculiar veneration by the peasantry ; and the 
 dead are brought from distant places to be interred in this holy 
 spot, as at Scattery and Glendalough. The point at which the 
 mourners embark for the isle is still known as Portora — " the 
 Port of Lamentation." 
 
 The Round Tower, one of the finest in the county, stands not 
 far from the principal group of ruins. "It is exactly circular, 
 69 feet high to the conical converging at the top, which has been 
 restored, and is 1 5 feet more ; it is 4 8 feet in circumference, and the 
 walls are 3 feet 5 inches thick ; thus the inside is only 9 feet 2 inches 
 in diameter, besides the door, which is elevated 9 feet above the 
 ground ; there are seven square holes to admit the light. The 
 whole tower is very neatly built with stones of about a foot square, 
 with scarcely any cement or mortar, and the inside is almost as 
 smooth as a gun-barrel." The tower has a singular ornamental 
 sculptured band of curious design. 
 
 Lower Lough Erne may be conveniently visited from Ennis- 
 killen. This great lake, one of the most extensive and beautiful 
 sheets of water in the county, affords ample material for interest 
 to the artist, the antiquary, and naturalist, Its numerous islands, 
 of all dimensions, present charming bits of sylvan loveliness ; 
 while venerable ruins add dignity and solemn grandeur to the 
 scene. Salmon, trout, pike, and eels, are found in various 
 parts of the lake; and herons and other aquatic fowl abound 
 among the islands. Many fine mansions are situated in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
' ' :' 
 
 ©sr 
 
ULSTER. g 3 
 
 The lake may be traversed from end to end by steamer in two 
 or three hours, or from near Enniskillen to Belleek ; or the excur- 
 sion may be made in a rowing boat, affording opportunity 
 for more leisurely inspection. To those who prefer land to water, 
 the trip to Belleek may be made by car or rail down the north side 
 of the Lough, one of the finest drives in the island. The next 
 station to Belleek is Bally shannon, in the county of Donegal, which 
 county we shall next briefly visit. 
 
 Before leaving Fermanagh we may intimate that the county was 
 anciently called the Country of the Lakes, and also the Country of 
 the Waters. It was divided into two great portions, one of which 
 was ruled over by the McManuses, and the other by the Maguires. 
 The latter family was so powerful, that the greater part of the 
 county was for several centuries known as McGuire's country. 
 It was first made shire ground in the reign of Elizabeth, and 
 was one of .the six counties which became forfeited to the 
 crown by the flight of the Earls of Tyrone and Tyrconnel. 
 Fermanagh is bounded on the east by Monaghan and Tyrone, 
 on the north by Tyrone and Donegal, on the west by Donegal and 
 Leitrim, and on the south by Cavan. 
 
 Ballyshannon is a seaport town, beautifully situated on both 
 sides of the river Erne, which flows through the centre of the 
 town beneath a bridge of fourteen arches. Some distance below 
 this bridge is the far-famed Salmon-leap, — a magnificent fall, 
 formed by the whole body of the river rushing over a ledge of 
 rock, which here crosses the entire river, a breadth of about 
 150 feet. The water descends with astonishing rapidity and inces- 
 sant roar, from a height of 1 6 feet, into the deep basin which may 
 be said to form the head of the harbour. In the season it is an 
 
94 SCENERF IN IRELAND. 
 
 interesting sight to see the salmon throwing themselves up the 
 cascade in their attempts to ascend stream, sometimes unfortu- 
 nately striking with great force against the overhanging crags. 
 This fall, although a very beautiful bit of scenery, is an effectual 
 barrier to the navigation of the river. From an elevation north 
 of the cascade, and near the ruins of the ancient castle of the 
 O'Donnels, a good view is obtained of the Salmon-leap, of Waltown 
 Castle, and of the entrance to the harbour. 
 
 The town of Ballyshannon is a comfortable and thriving place, 
 with an air of business about it. The imports consists of timber, 
 coal, slates, groceries, and English manufactured goods ; and the 
 exports principally of corn and salmon. Its salmon fisheries are 
 valuable, large quantities being taken, and the quality and 
 flavour highly esteemed. The town is well situated in the centre 
 of a fertile district, and the neighbourhood contains more than an 
 averasre share of mineral wealth. 
 
 About four miles from Ballyshannon is the pretty village of 
 Bundoran. It is much frequented for sea-bathing, and is exceed- 
 ingly healthy ; the wide Atlantic immediately facing it, and a 
 range of mountains sheltering it from inclement winds. The 
 cliffs form a delightful promenade, while numerous sheltered nooks 
 on the beach afford admirable convenience for bathers of both 
 sexes. In the season this watering-place is much resorted to by 
 the people of the adjoining counties, for whose accommodation 
 some excellent hotels have been erected. There are also numerous 
 private dwellings appropriated to the use of visitors, according to 
 their varying needs or means. 
 
 The railway by which we have diverged westward ends at Bun- 
 doran ; the tourist with little time to spare will probably retrace 
 
ULSTER. 95 
 
 his steps by the same route. We propose to vary the journey by 
 going from Ballyshannon to Donegal, thence through Barnesmore 
 Gap — one of the most magnificent defiles in Ireland — to Stran- 
 orlar, here rejoining the main line by taking the Finn Valley 
 rail to Strabane, and so on to the Giant's Causeway by London- 
 derry and Coleraine. 
 
 At present we have but just touched the borders of the mari- 
 time county of Donegal. Though by no means so frequently 
 visited by tourists as other parts of Ireland, the county is second 
 to none in the wildness of its scenery. Its surface is principally 
 comprised of mountain, lake, river, and falls, associated with end- 
 less fairy tales and traditions. The naturalist and geologist have 
 long been familiar with its remarkable coast line, but the general 
 tourist remained till lately a stranger in this region. The for- 
 mation of the above-noticed branch lines, viz. the Bundoran 
 junction and the Finn Valley line, has opened up the county 
 in such a way that the principal features of its scenery may 
 be seen in a few days, starting either from the north or south. 
 The traveller of course will not find the same hotel accommo- 
 dation or coach routes here as in the more populous parts of the 
 island. 
 
 Leaving Ballyshannon, a few miles to the left, on a jutting crag 
 overlooking Donegal Bay is the venerable ruin of Kilbarron Castle, 
 a stronghold of the O'Clerys, once powerful chiefs of the district, 
 and where the celebrated " Annals of the Four Masters " is said to 
 have been composed. Not far from this relic is a natural curiosity 
 called " The Pullins," which has been thus described by Mr. S. C. 
 Hall : — " It is formed by the course of a mountain torrent, which 
 runs for nearly a mile through a most singularly picturesque ravine, 
 
9 6 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 presenting to view, in succession, a series of cascades, caves, wild 
 cliffs, huge shattered rocks, amidst a profusion of the richest and 
 most varied ferns, and every description of mountain plants. The 
 whole course of the river is shaded by a mass of deep wood, which 
 greatly enhances the effect of the scenery. A solid bed of lime- 
 stone seems to have been cleft, from 30 to 40 feet in depth ; 
 and in this narrow fissure, turning often at a very acute angle, 
 the river foams along, frequently entirely disappearing in caves, 
 where its course passes under and through the rock for a con- 
 siderable space. In one of these caves, the regularly formed 
 arched roof, above 50 feet span, and above one hundred yards 
 long, presents one of the wildest representations imaginable of the 
 lawless distiller's haunt, or the outlaw's refuge. A dropping-well 
 of the purest water is found in a basin of the rock within, and 
 a succession of winding caves, forming numerous outlets, afford 
 opportunities of escape or concealment on all sides. Often the 
 course of the river is obliterated by masses of rock piled over each 
 other in the most fantastic manner, and the existence of the stream 
 is only known by a hoarse murmur deep below the place on which 
 the spectator stands. After a course again of half a mile through 
 a flat meadow, the river reassumes its wild character, but with 
 increased magnificence of scenery. The river suddenly descends 
 about 60 feet in a deep and dark chasm, the rocks actually 
 meeting ' overhead, whilst a precipitous wall of rock bounds either 
 side ; it falls at once nearly 20 feet in an unbroken stream 
 with a roar which makes the solid wall around absolutely quake. 
 It emerges under a narrow natural bridge of rock of the most per- 
 fect Gothic mould, and turning suddenly, a vista of a quarter of a 
 mile appears opening upon the sea in the distance, and on either 
 
ULSTER. 
 
 97 
 
 side a perpendicular wall of rock, clothed with the richest ivy, 
 extends in a perfectly straight line to the village of Ballintra, the 
 river occupying the entire space between these curious walls. A 
 description can but faintly convey the extraordinary character of 
 these lovely scenes, nor can the artist represent their singular 
 beauties." 
 
 To the right, on the verge of County Tyrone, lies the famous 
 Lough Derg, the largest of the somewhat numerous but small 
 lakes of the county. It is a wild, romantic sheet of water, about 
 six miles in breadth and four in width, surrounded on all sides by 
 bleak and barren hills. The Lough gained its notoriety from the 
 tradition that one of its islands contained St. Patrick's Purgatory. 
 This imaginary favoured spot is called Station Island, which does 
 not exceed half an acre ; yet in this confined space many hundreds 
 congregated in the hottest time of the year. When Mr. Inglis 
 visited the place, many years ago, he calculated that there could 
 not have been fewer than two thousand persons upon a spot 
 not five hundred yards long, and not half that breadth. The 
 " station" commenced on the 1st of June, and continued till the 
 loth of August ; and from the same authority we learn, that the 
 " whole number of pilgrims visiting the Lough would amount, 
 during the season, to above nineteen thousand, the great majority 
 being women ; many of them travelling a distance of two hundred 
 miles to arrive at the scene of their ' devotions ; ' this too at 
 a period of the year when labour was particularly needful and 
 profitable ! Of course, this is an affair of the long past, although 
 many humble penitents still pay their devotions to this cele- 
 brated shrine during the summer months. It should be added, 
 however, that the Roman Catholic clergy universally condemn the 
 
 H 
 
9 8 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 practice. We quote the following particulars of this singular 
 tradition : — 
 
 " The tradition was, that St. Patrick had prevailed on God to 
 place the entrance to purgatory in Ireland, that the unbelievers 
 might the more readily be convinced of the immortality of the 
 soul and of the sufferings that awaited the wicked after death." A 
 few monks, according to Boate, an old Irish writer, dwelt near 
 the cavern that represented the entrance. " Whoever came to 
 the island with the intention of descending into the cavern and 
 examining its wonders, had to prepare himself by long vigils, fasts, 
 and j>rayers, to strengthen him, as we are told, for his danger- 
 ous expedition, but in reality, by reducing his bodily strength, 
 to make his imagination more ready to receive the impressions 
 which it was thought desirable to leave upon his mind. He 
 was then let down into the cavern, whence, after an interval 
 of several hours, he was drawn up again half dead; and when he 
 recovered his senses, mingling the wild dreams of his own 
 imagination with what the monks had told him, he seldom 
 failed to tell the most marvellous tales of the place for the 
 remainder of his life. It was not till the reign of James II. 
 that the monks were driven away from the place, and the 
 mystery of the dark cavern dissolved." 
 
 Resuming our route, Donegal would be reached in about thirteen 
 miles from Ballyshannon by the direct road, which passes through 
 a pleasant district, 
 
 The small maritime town of Donegal is situated on the river 
 Esk, which, flowing from Lough Esk, — about three miles dis- 
 tant, — discharges itself into the harbour. The town is clean 
 and business-like, possessing a spacious market-place, called the 
 
©©•£■ (CA§1%3E, 
 
 
ULSTER. 99 
 
 Diamond, which is of triangular shape. In the vicinity is the 
 fine old Castle of Donegal, once the seat of the O'Donnells, 
 chiefs of Tyrconnell. It stands close to the river Esk, above 
 the bridge, and is in tolerable preservation. The Castle was built 
 in the thirteenth century, and combined massive strength with 
 considerable domestic accommodation and comfort. Soon after the 
 wars of 1641 the structure was abandoned, and gradually became 
 a ruin. " Many of the arches, some of which are Gothic, and one 
 of them a rare specimen of the Byzantine style, are still entire ; 
 and the windows, which are of square form, with framings of stone, 
 are in tolerable preservation. In the principal apartment on the 
 second story is a large and grand chimney-piece, enriched with 
 fine carving, representing various fanciful devices, and orna- 
 mented with rosettes." This interesting ruin is regarded with 
 jDeculiar veneration by the countrymen of the chivalrous chiefs of 
 Tyrconnell. 
 
 Donegal possesses another remain of antiquity, which Sir. 
 Lacy thus describes : — " About a quarter of a mile from the town 
 in another direction, and on the south bank of the Esk, as it flows 
 onward to the bay, are situated the remains of the monastery, 
 founded in the year 1474, for Friars of the Observantine Order, by 
 Hugh O'Donnell, son of the Prince of Tryconnell, and by his wife, 
 Fiongala, daughter of O'Brien, Prince of Thomond. This house 
 has been rendered particularly famous as being the convent where- 
 in (or in the Castle of Kilbarron) were compiled the annals of 
 Donegal, generally called the 'Annals of the Four Masters.' 
 Several portions of this renowned abbey are spread over the sur- 
 rounding churchyard, the walls in general being very thick, and 
 composed of an enduring limestone. The sides and arch of the 
 
 H 2 
 
ioo SCENERF IN IRELAND. 
 
 eastern or grand chancel window, which occupied the entire end of 
 the church, are still remaining, and afford a tolerably accurate 
 notion of what this remarkable place was in former days. Portions 
 of the side walls and western gable are also standing, as well as 
 those of the north transej)t. The south gable of what may have 
 been an extensive chapel, with its fine Gothic window, is still 
 entire, and stands apart from the church already mentioned. On 
 the north side of the ruins is a row of arches, supported by 
 coupled columns, which may be supposed to have formed portions 
 of the cloisters. Some of the altar niches are to be seen in the 
 principal ruin, and many inscriptional stones, partially worn, so as 
 to obliterate the lettering on several parts of them. This very in- 
 teresting remnant of former times is finely situated above the deep 
 waters which may be considered as forming the head of the 
 harbour, and must, in its palmy days of piety and grandeur, have 
 derived no small advantage from its admirable position in the im- 
 mediate vicinity of commerce and navigation, whereby most of the 
 necessaries and many of the luxuries of life were conveyed up to 
 its very walls. The several islands at the head of the bay, with 
 the neat and fanciful villas by which they are enriched and beauti- 
 fied, can be seen to great advantage from the cemetery in which 
 the ruins are situated." 
 
 Three miles west of Donegal lies the pleasant little village of 
 Mount Charles. From the summit of the mount from which it 
 takes its name, a fine panorama of the country may be enjoyed, 
 including portions of six or seven counties. The road gradually 
 ascends until the tourist reaches the picturesque Lough Esk. 
 Fine fishing can be had in this lake, as it abounds in trout and 
 salmon. A short distance from its upper shores the " Pass of 
 
ULSTER. i oi 
 
 Barnes " is entered — a gap formed in the lofty Barnesmore Moun- 
 tains, the inhospitable summits of which rise in barren grandeur a 
 short distance from each other. Before entering this mountain 
 glen the visitor will enjoy the prospect presented before him, of 
 the rich and fertile valley through which he has been travelling. 
 
 Barnesmore Pass is a deep and wild defile about four miles long, 
 walled in by mountains in some places 1,700 feet high. Through- 
 out its course rushes a rapid river, foaming over enormous masses 
 of rock, which every now and then divert its passage, forcing it into 
 a channel that, after taking a circuitous route, again progresses 
 onwards by the side of the traveller. No human habitation is met 
 with, nor any living creature, save, perhaps, a few sheep that, in the 
 summer and autumn season, crop the scanty herbage that is found 
 upon the bases of the mountains. In the winter season the whole 
 region is deserted, as no living thing could find the means of 
 existing. 
 
 Emerging from the Pass, the tourist will enter a district where 
 the mountains, though less elevated, are still wild and spreading. 
 After passing over a couple of miles of bog-land, Lough Mourne is 
 reached, which is about a mile in length, and abounds in pike. 
 Mr. Lacy gives us the following curious bit of angling information : 
 — " An ingenious method has been adopted for capturing these 
 ravenous creatures, consisting of lines attached to a log of wood, 
 the hooks of which are baited with horseflesh or some such sub- 
 stance. Dogs, trained for the purpose, are at stated periods sent 
 forth, which at once proceed in search of the logs, that are left to 
 drift as circumstances may direct, and when they have dragged 
 them to the shore, return to the houses of their respective owners 
 without in any manner meddling with the fish. It is said that 
 
ioz SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 these dogs are lazy and indolent, and totally unfit for any other 
 
 use. 
 
 From Lousrh Mourne, the traveller will soon leave the extreme 
 verge of the Barnesmore range of mountains, and arrive at the 
 village of Ballibofey. Crossing the river Finn, Stranorlar is next 
 reached, where we propose taking the rail to Strabane, and pro- 
 ceeding to Londonderry. Of the county of the same name we 
 shall do little more than pass through on our way to the Giant's 
 Causeway. 
 
 The city of Londonderry is finely situated on the river Foyle, 
 which is crossed by two bridges : a new one of iron, and a fine 
 wooden bridge. The latter was built by an American, Mr. Lemuel 
 Cox, a native of Boston, between the years 1789 and 1791, at the 
 cost of £16,294. Its length is 1,068 feet, and breadth 40 feet. 
 The city walls are in good preservation, and form a most agreeable 
 promenade. There were six gates : the Bishop's Gate and Ship- 
 quay Gate are the most remarkable. Among the most interesting 
 objects in the town is the fine statue of the celebrated governor, 
 George Walker, under whose command the city so bravely with- 
 stood the celebrated siege. This monument was erected in the 
 year 1828, by subscription, at an expense of £1,200. It is 
 based on a square pedestal bearing inscriptions descriptive of the 
 important event from which he derives his historical celebrity. 
 The shaft consists of a Doric column, 80 ft. in height, surmounted 
 with a statue of the patriot. The monument in all is 90 feet in 
 height, and is ascended by a staircase in the interior to the sum- 
 mit, from which the view over the Foyle and the country beyond 
 is exceedingly fine. There are some good public buildings, and of 
 late years much has been done towards rendering the town worthy 
 
ULSTER. 103 
 
 of its ancient fame. The trade of the port is steadily improving ; 
 the salmon fishery of Lough Foyle is very productive, enormous 
 quantities of fish being taken, most of which is shipped for Liver- 
 pool. 
 
 Most readers are sufficiently acquainted with the modern history 
 of Londonderry, including its protracted and memorable siege in 
 1689, which lasted one hundred and five days. During this 
 trial the citizens exhibited instances of constancy and devotion 
 under the most severe privations, arising from want of the common 
 necessaries of life, equal to any which our history records. " Re- 
 duced," writes Mr. Gordon, " to the extremity of distress, and 
 •endeavouring to support the remains of life by such miserable food 
 as the flesh of dogs and vermin, even tallow and hides, nor able 
 to find more than two days' provisions of such substances, the 
 garrison was still assured by the harangues of Walker in a pro- 
 phetic spirit, that God would relieve them ; and men reduced 
 almost to shadows made desperate sallies, but were unable to 
 pursue their advantage." 
 
 Early in the reign of James I., a considerable part of the pro- 
 vince of Ulster was vested in the crown by the attainder of the 
 Roman Catholic families of distinction, and a colonisation of the 
 forfeited estates was then suggested to the king by the Lord 
 Treasurer Salisbury. His Majesty, conceiving the City of London 
 to be the best qualified to effect so great an object, on the 28th of 
 January, 1609, permitted an agreement to be entered into between 
 commissioners for the city and the lords of the Privy Council, 
 whereby the towns and liberties of Derry and Coleraine, with 
 the " salmon and eel fisheries of the rivers Bann and Foyle, 
 and all other kind of fishing in the river Foyle, so fur as the 
 
104 
 
 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 river flowetli, and in the Bann to Lough Neagh, should belong 
 in perpetuity to the city ; ,: that the liberties of Londonderry 
 should extend three miles every way ; with numerous other 
 privileges and conditions, included in twenty-seven articles of 
 agreement. In 1613, the Society of the New Plantation of Ulster 
 was incorporated ; and from this date Derry has been the property 
 of the City of London. 
 
 On leaving Londonderry the line runs along the south-east shore 
 of Lough Foyle for some distance. At Bellarena the scenery is 
 very picturesque, the cliff rising to a considerable height overhead. 
 Between Bellarena and Magilligan these cliffs are especially fine, 
 and continue all the way to Downhill. The line now runs along 
 the west side of the river Bann to Coleraine. This is a handsome 
 town, finely situated on the river Bann, about four miles from the 
 sea. Here we take rail for Portrush. 
 
ANTRIM AND ARMAGH. 
 
 Portrush — The White Eocks — Dunluce Castle — Portcoon and Dunkcrry Caves — The 
 Steucans— The Causeways : Little, Middle, and Great— Giant's Gateway and Loom 
 — Giant's Organ — Portnoffer Bay— Giant's Amphitheatre — Giant's Chimney -tops 
 — Port-na-Spania — The Pleaskin— Bengore Head — Portmoon Bay — The Stack — 
 Dunseveriek Castle — Carrick-a-Rede — Kenbane Head — Ballycastle — Rathlin Island 
 —"The Grey Man's Path"— Fair Head— Cushendun — Cushendall — Glenariff— 
 Garron Tower — Glenarm — Larne — " Island Magee" — Carrickfergus— Belfast — 
 Armagh — Conclusion. 
 
 "PORTRUSH is a small seaport town on the northern extremity 
 of County Antrim. It is situated within the shelter of a fine 
 basaltic headland projecting about a mile into the sea, in the direc- 
 tion of the rocks called the Skerries of Portrush. On the western 
 side of the peninsula is the harbour, which has been rendered avail- 
 able by the erection of two piers or breakwaters. The town is a 
 busy place, much frequented also by visitors to the Giant's Cause- 
 way, and the other interesting objects on this remarkable coast. 
 
 The White Rocks are situated midway between Dunluce and 
 Portrush. They are formed of white limestone, and abound in 
 caves of the most fantastic forms. It is said there are as many as 
 twenty-seven of these natural caverns, some of them extending far 
 under the hills, within a distance of about two miles. The largest 
 
io6 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 and most picturesque is known as the " Priest's Hole." There is a 
 good hotel here, and a fine smooth beach for bathing. 
 
 A mile and a half farther east and we come to the ruins of 
 Dunluce Castle, which are boldly situated on the margin of the 
 sea. Its grey bastions and joointed gables rise like an apparition on 
 the sharp, jagged, and precipitous mass of rock ; the whole seeming 
 more like a weird composition of the painter than the creation 
 of an architect. Mr. Willis thus describes this picturesque ruin : — 
 
 " Dunluce stands on a perpendicular and insulated rock, the 
 entire surface of which' is so completely occupied by the edifice 
 that the external walls are in continuation with the perpendicular 
 sides of the rock. The walls of the building were never very lofty, 
 but from the great area which they enclosed, contained a consider- 
 able number of apartments. One small vaulted room is said to be 
 inhabited by a banshee, whose chief occupation is sweeping the 
 floor. This story originates in the fact that the floor is at all times 
 as clean as if it had been just swept ; but this mystery can be 
 explained without the introduction of Maw Eoi, the fairy, by the 
 fact that the wind gains admittance through an aperture on a level 
 with the floor, and thus preserves the appearance of cleanliness and 
 freedom from dust just now mentioned. In the north-eastern end 
 is a small room, actually projecting over the sea, the rocky base 
 having fallen away ; and from the door of this apartment there is 
 a goodly view of the sea beneath. The rock on which the Castle 
 stands is not surrounded by water, but is united at the bottom of 
 the chasm to the main land by a ledge of rock a little higher than 
 the surface of the ocean. The Castle was entered by a bridge 
 formed in the following manner : two parallel walls, about eight 
 feet asunder, thrown across the chasm, connected the rock with 
 
' 
 
 .rrCE C, 
 
ULSTER. 107 
 
 the mainland. Upon these, planks were laid crosswise for the 
 admission of visitors, and removed immediately after the passage 
 was effected. At present but one of the walls remains, about 
 thirteen inches in thickness : and the only pathway to the Castle is 
 along its summit, over the awful rocky chasm. The distance at 
 which the other parallel wall was placed, may be perceived by the 
 traces of its connection with the opposite rock. 
 
 " On the mainland, close to the Castle, a second collection of 
 similar buildings is seen, erected at a later period by one of the 
 Antrim family, in consequence of the giving way of an apartment 
 on the verge of the rock. Beneath the cliff on which the rock 
 stands, is a cave, penetrating completely through from the sea to 
 the rocky basin on the land side of the Castle. It may be entered 
 by a small aperture in the south end, and at low water there is a 
 good deal of the flooring uncovered, which consists of large round 
 stones, which have attained this form from the action of the waves. 
 The sides and roof are of basalt, possessing merely the usual cha- 
 racters ; here also is a very remarkable echo when the surface of 
 the water is unruffled." 
 
 The original foundation of this Castle is not precisely known. It 
 has been assigned to De Courcy, Earl of Ulster, but seemingly 
 without sufficient evidence. It is known to have been in the 
 hands of the English in the fifteenth century. The Castle was the 
 residence of the MacQuillans, and afterwards the MacDonnells. 
 There are, of course, numerous traditions connected with the wars 
 and misfortunes of these two families. 
 
 Continuing eastward we come to two caves usually insjjected by 
 visitors, viz. Portcoon Cave and Dunkerry Cave. The former can 
 be visited either by land or water Boats may enter to a distance 
 
io8 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 of a hundred yards or more, but the swell is sometimes dangerous. 
 Dunkerry Cave can only be entered by water, the entrance being 
 very striking. As each successive wave rolls into this cave at the 
 flow of the tide, the surface rises so ominously as to suggest the 
 possibility of the waters reaching the summit ; of this, however, 
 there need be no apprehension, the roof being 60 feet above 
 high-water mark. Both caves have echoes, which it is customary 
 to awaken. 
 
 We now soon reach the Steucans, hill-promontories which 
 divide the bays Portnabaw and Port Ganniay. A little farther 
 we come upon the Giant's Well, a basin in the basaltic floor- 
 ing which is generally filled with spring-water. And then we 
 are on the verge of the often described and pictured natural 
 curiosity, the Giant's Causeway, one of the most perfect examples 
 of columnar basalt in the world. Before describing the various 
 objects in their order, proceeding from west to east, we propose to 
 devote a brief space to the general consideration of the district. 
 
 " Basaltic rocks occur more or less plentifully over the whole 
 northern coast of the County Antrim, but the district embracing 
 the most interesting variety of forms, ranges over a space of about 
 four miles, from Portcoon Cave on the west, to Dunseverick Castle 
 on the east. To form any conception of the appearance of the 
 Causeway, we must suppose a wild rocky shore, with here a shoal 
 and there a beetling cliff, alternating with deposits of debris. But 
 the majority of our rocks in cliffs are deposited in layers one above 
 another ; whereas these are composed of perpendicular columns, 
 some five, some six-sided, and though separate, fitting so closely 
 together as to exclude, in some places, even a sheet of paper. 
 The exposed ends of these columns form the Causeway, their entire 
 
ULSTER. 109 
 
 lengths in other places forming the ribbed or fluted crags, as in the 
 Organ and Stack, resembling, but far surpassing in extent, the 
 similar columns on Arthur's Seat, known as ' Samson's Ribs.' Nor 
 are the pillars themselves continuous, but composed of several 
 pieces fitted together by convex and concave surfaces. Of the 
 figure of the pillars, we are told that ' there is only one triangular 
 pillar throughout the whole extent of the three Causeways. It 
 stands near the east side of the Grand Causeway. There are but 
 three pillars of nine sides ; one of them situated in the Honeycomb, 
 and the others not far from the triangular pillar just noticed. The 
 total number of four and eight sides bear but a small proportion to 
 the entire mass of pillars, of which it may be safely computed that 
 ninety-nine out of one hundred have either five, six, or seven sides.' 
 It would be out of place here to enter into geological details. It 
 will be sufficient for the general reader's purpose, if we state that 
 these columns are composed chemically of about one-half flinty 
 earth, one-quarter iron, and one-quarter clay and lime ; that they 
 are plutonic in their origin, that is, formed by a perfect fusion of 
 the ingredients into one mass, which in cooling has cracked or 
 crystallized into regular forms, as starch will on drying." * Kohl 
 judiciously remarks on this subject — "With all the explana- 
 tions that can be offered, however, so much is left unexplained, 
 that they answer very little purpose. On a close investigation 
 of these wonderful formations, so many questions arise, that one 
 scarcely ventures to utter them. With inquiries of this nature, 
 perhaps not the least gain is the knowledge of how much lies 
 beyond the limits of our inquiries, and how many things that lie 
 so plainly before our eyes, which we can see and handle, may yet 
 
 * Black's " Guide to Ireland." 
 
i io SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 be wrapped in unfathomable mystery. We see in the Giant's 
 Causeway the most certain and obvious effects produced by the 
 operation of active and powerful forces which entirely escape our 
 scrutiny. We walk over the heads of some forty thousand 
 columns (for this number has been counted by some curious and 
 leisurely persons), all beautifully cut and polished, formed of such 
 neat pieces, so exactly fitted to each other, and so cleverly supported, 
 that we might fancy we had before us the work of ingenious human 
 artificers ; and yet what we behold is the result of the immutable 
 laws of nature, acting without any apparent object, and by a process 
 which must remain a mystery for ever to our understanding." 
 
 The Causeway consists of three piers, or moles — the Little 
 Causeway, the Middle Causeway, the Great Causeway — each jut- 
 ting out into the sea. The Little Causeway is first approached 
 from the west; it is about 380 feet in length, but 16 feet in 
 height, and is separated from the central compartment by a large 
 circular dyke. The middle section, which is the shortest, consists 
 of a magnificent group of lofty pillars called the Honeycomb, a 
 name which aptly explains its character ; this is also bounded on 
 the east by an excavation, or dyke. Beyond this is the Grand 
 Causeway, which is about 700 feet long by 100 wide. 
 
 On turning to leave the Causeway, the Giant's Gateway and 
 Loom are pointed out. These are composed of a series of 
 columns, the perpendicular lengths of which are exposed to view. 
 The Giant's Organ is a similar object, but more beautiful than 
 either. "It forms no part of the Causeway, but is placed apart in 
 the mountain, and consists of a number of large pillars, declining 
 on either side to shorter and shorter ones, like the strings of a 
 harp ; and we might really imagine a giant organist sitting play- 
 
ULSTER. 1 1 1 
 
 ing at it, especially as the basaltic pillars, when struck, give forth 
 a metallic ring." 
 
 Portno-ffer Bay is now passed, and we come to the Giant's 
 Amphitheatre. Of this object Kohl writes enthusiastically : — 
 " The bay called the Giant's Amphitheatre is certainly the most 
 beautiful amphitheatre in the world, that in Rome not excepted. 
 The form of it is so exact half a circle, that no architect could 
 have possibly made it more so, and the cliff slopes at precisely the 
 same angle all round to the centre. Round the upper part runs a 
 row of columns, 80 feet high ; then comes a broad rounded pro- 
 jection, like an immense bench, for the accommodation of the 
 giant guests of Fin MacCoul ; then again a row of pillars 60 feet 
 high, and then again a gigantic bench, and so down to the bottom, 
 where the water is enclosed by a circle of black boulder stones, 
 like the limits of the arena." 
 
 The Giant's Chimney-tops are three isolated rocks standing on 
 a promontory. In Port-na-Spania there is another organ — the 
 " Spanish Organ ;" and then we reach Port-na-Callion, in which 
 are pointed out " the Priest and his Flock," " the Nursing Child," 
 " the Scholar," a white pillar in a black crevice, likened to a 
 student, book in hand ; and " the King and his Nobles," a 
 singular assemblage of pillars. When these are passed, we come 
 to the Pleaskin, the most famous and beautiful of all the promon- 
 tories. This remarkable headland is nearly 400 feet in height, 
 and exhibits, in its various and distinguishable strata, the 
 geological characteristics of the district. 
 
 East of the Pleaskin, fronting Horse-shoe Harbour, is a singular 
 formation of rocks, called " the Lion's Head." Off Kenbane 
 Head, another fine headland, are " the Twins ;" then comes the 
 
1 1 2 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 " Giant's Ball-alley ;" next " the Giant's Pulpit ;" and then we 
 arrive at Bengore Head, scarcely inferior in grandeur, although 
 more limited in extent, to the promontory of Fair Head. Here a 
 very peculiar pillar has received the name of " the Giant's 
 Granny ;" and not far off four isolated columns are known as 
 " the Four Sisters." Rounding Port Fad is a single rock, named 
 " the Priest." We now enter Portmoon Bay, into which rushes a 
 river, forming a noble cataract as it reaches the coast. Here 
 occurs another striking and picturesque basaltic formation, called 
 " the Stack." Still farther on, we pass a curious rock, called 
 " the Hen and Chickens ;" and shortly arrive at the splendid 
 ruin of Dunseverick Castle, formerly the seat of the O'Cahans, 
 chieftains of the district. 
 
 We have now completed the survey of the Causeway district 
 from west to east. It will be advisable, if the tourist have time, 
 to make the inspection first in a boat, and have the various objects 
 pointed out to him by the boatman, and afterwards to visit them 
 by land with a guide. We have given the names used by the 
 guides to describe the various objects ; these names, of course, 
 are merely fanciful, and, to our mind, add nothing to the interest 
 of the scenes. 
 
 We now propose to continue our route eastward by the coast- 
 road to Belfast ; the tourist pressed for time would take the rail 
 at Ballymoney, for the same destination. 
 
 By the road which we traverse, excellent views of the bold and 
 ruofsred scenerv of the iron-bound shore mav be obtained. One of 
 the most striking objects of interest is the famous Carrick-a-Rede, 
 the meaning of which is " the rock in the road." This headland, 
 which projects a considerable way into the sea, and on the 
 
ULSTER. 1 1 3 
 
 extremit} 7 of which there is a small cottage, built for a fishing 
 station, is divided from the mainland by a rent, or chasm. Across 
 this gulf a flying bridge of ropes is thrown during the summer, 
 for the convenience of those attached to the fishery, which is of 
 some importance. Over this frail structure women and boys carry 
 loads with the utmost contempt of danger and apparent ease. 
 The chief use of this insulated rock appears to be that of inter- 
 rupting the salmon, who annually coast along the shore in search 
 of rivers in which to deposit their spawn. Their passage is gene- 
 rally made close to the shore, so that Carrick-a-Rede is well 
 situated for projecting the intercepting nets. 
 
 About two miles from Ballycastle is Kenbane Head, a singular 
 promontory, which derives its name (White Head) from the white- 
 ness of the limestone rock. It is crowned by the ruins of an 
 ancient castle, of which little remains except a part of the mossy 
 walls of the tower or keep. The building is commonly known by 
 the name of M'Allister Castle ; from its bold and romantic situa- 
 tion, it is a pleasing object in the landscape. 
 
 Arriving at Ballycastle, the visitor is much struck with its 
 situation and general appearance, standing as it does at the head 
 of the bay to which it gives its name, opposite Rathlin Island, and 
 in a valley at the foot of a lofty mountain, which shelters it on 
 the south. This little town is of interest more for what it has 
 been, than for what it is : it has little to boast of now, save the 
 beauty of its situation, and superiority of its houses, which were 
 raised in better times. Above a century ago, a large sum was 
 expended in improving the harbour, and in the construction of a 
 quay. Most of these improvements were carried out at the 
 expense of Hugh Boyd, Esq., who likewise erected glass-houses, 
 
 i 
 
1 14 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 tanneries, and breweries. The town soon became a place of com- 
 mercial and manufacturing importance. Mr. Boyd also endowed 
 several charities, and, although a member of the Established 
 Church, built a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic 
 place of worship. All this prosperity was slowly but surely 
 frustrated by the encroaching sand, which gradually choked up the 
 harbour. The consequence was that all the industries fostered by 
 Mr. Boyd were suspended, and the place is now only visited by 
 vessels in the summer season. In the days of the town's pros- 
 perity, collieries were successfully worked : while pursuing this 
 industry, the miners came upon some neglected coal-works. From 
 this interesting discovery it has been sought to establish a very 
 early civilisation in Ireland, as no tradition remains in the country 
 of the working of these mines. " Thirty-six chambers were dis- 
 covered, all trimmed and dressed by excellent hands ; also baskets 
 and mining instruments, and other demonstrations of the original 
 miner's knowledge and expertness in the art, equal to that of the 
 present day." 
 
 Rathlin, or Raghery Island, is about four to six miles from the 
 mainland, and twelve or fourteen from the Mull of Cantire in 
 Scotland. From its geological formation, it is generally believed 
 that this island was once connected with the Antrim coast ; and 
 that it is the surviving fragment of a large tract of country which, 
 at some period of time, has been buried in the deep, and may 
 have formerly united StafFa and the Giant's Causeway. It is 
 about eight miles in length, and one and a quarter to half a mile 
 wide. At a jriace called Doon Point, the disposition of the 
 basaltic columns is very remarkable. The inhabitants, who 
 number about a thousand, principally speak the Irish language. 
 

 APPROAC HIS G- THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY. 
 
ULSTER. 115 
 
 Not far from Ballycastle, on the way to Fair Head, is a natural 
 curiosity, called "the Grey Man's Path." It is a singular fissure in 
 the rocky promontory, across which a pillar of greenstone has 
 fallen, which remains supported on both sides at a considerable 
 elevation. 
 
 Four miles north-east of Ballycastle is situated the bold and 
 majestic promontory of Benmore, or Fair Head. "From the 
 summit, which is about 630 feet above the sea-level, the prospect is 
 really magnificent, comprising within it the bold iron coast which 
 intervenes between it and Bengore Head, with Rathlin Island, the 
 Mull of Cantire, from which it is distant about seventeen miles, 
 the Isle of Islay, Sanda Island, and the mouth of the North 
 Channel, in all its wild sublimity." In a hollow near the summit 
 are two small lakes, Lough Dhu (Black Lake) and Lough -na- 
 Cranagh (the Lake of the Island). The island in the latter lake 
 is said to have been made by the Druids, and used as the site of 
 their religious ceremonies. " It rises hi a perfectly regular oval 
 figure from the surface of the water, and consists entirely of black 
 basaltic rock, fragments of which lie round the shores of the lake 
 in great numbers. Its position in the middle of a lake on the 
 summit of a vast headland, is certainly one which they would have 
 been likely to choose." 
 
 The promontory of Fair Head is composed of a range of 
 enormous basaltic pillars. One of the columns is a quadrangular 
 prism, measuring 33 feet by 36 on the sides, and above 200 feet 
 perpendicular. At the foot of this magnificent colonnade is scon 
 an immense mass of rock, similarly formed, strewn in the wildest 
 chaos. These ruins are supposed to have been, in the course of 
 ages, tumbled down from their original position, by storms or by 
 
 i -2 
 
1 1 6 SCENER1 r IN IRELAND. 
 
 some violent operation of nature. " The scene of ruin at the base 
 of these Titanian pillars is probably not exceeded by any in 
 Europe. Here the sea heaves in a solemn, majestic swell, the 
 peculiar attribute of the Atlantic waters, and in every retreat dis- 
 closes the apparently endless continuation of convulsive ruin, 
 covered by the waters beneath the promontory. Upon this region 
 of desolation, on the shore, enormous debris, either assuming the 
 character of rude columnization, or in a perfectly shapeless mass, 
 whose weight is calculated at from four to five thousand tons, 
 are thrown together in all the savage sublimity of which we 
 can conceive the wildest scenes in nature capable." Viewed 
 from the sea, as shown in our engraving, the extent and magni- 
 ficence of this bold, perpendicular cliff can be thoroughly felt and 
 aj:>preciated. 
 
 We next pass Tor Head, and reach the small fishing village of 
 Cushendun, which is pleasantly situated on the bay from which it 
 takes its name. The river Glendun is here spanned by a noble 
 viaduct, 80 feet in height, erected at a cost of £17,000. Three 
 miles farther is the town of Cushendall, beautifully situated within 
 a quarter of a mile of the sea. The adjacent country is romantic 
 and picturesque, and numerous caves of singular formation are to 
 be seen on the coast. 
 
 Red Bay is next reached, and the wild and desolate basaltic vale 
 of Glenariff, embosomed in lofty mountains, its front being open to 
 the sea, into which falls the river, which rushes through the ravine 
 that divides the closely adjoining mountains. On rounding Garron 
 Point we come to Garron Tower, the seat of the Marquis of London- 
 derry, a castellated building, placed on the summit of a rock, which 
 rises to a considerable elevation. The marine view from the ram- 
 
ULSTER. 117 
 
 parts is unusually extensive and grand. About four miles farther 
 is the pretty village and bay of Carnlough. 
 
 We next arrive at the pretty little town of Glenarm, situated in 
 a deep glen which opens to the sea, and on the banks of the Glen- 
 arm River. The Castle is a stately pile, very ancient, with modern 
 additions in the finest taste. It is the seat of the Antrim family, 
 who are greatly beloved by the people of the district. As at pre- 
 sent constructed, the Castle is a quadrangular structure in the 
 Gothic style, containing some noble apartments. The building is 
 finely situated ; from one front there is a splendid sea-view, and 
 from the other a prospect up the wooded glen. In the great Deer 
 Park, supposed to be the finest in the kingdom, four hundred deer 
 and stags graze ; and six hundred old ancestral trees overshadow 
 the grounds with their spreading boughs. 
 
 Lame is a busy little seaport of about three thousand inhabitants. 
 It is situated on the Lough of the same name, which is formed by 
 the singular peninsula of (< Island Magee." This island extends 
 about seven miles from north to south, and is about two miles in 
 breadth. The inhabitants, who number about two thousand, aro 
 mostly of Scotch descent. Among the curiosities of the island are 
 a rocking stone, weighing twelve tons, and some curious caves at 
 Gobbins Cliffs. 
 
 The tourist cannot fail to be struck by the excellence of the new 
 road we have traversed from Ballycastle to Larne. This road, Avith 
 its viaducts, cost the large sum of £37,000. Formerly a narrow 
 and difficult way, called " the Path," alone conducted the traveller 
 along this coast. The new road is constructed with equal skill, 
 taste, and enterprise ; cliffs cut through, chasms crossed, water- 
 courses bridged — a rough and jagged coast, in short, traversed by 
 
n8 ' SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 a road almost as level as a tennis-court. For a summer triji, 
 nothing can be more delightful than this tour along the bold and 
 rugged shore of the North Channel. 
 
 From Lame the railway may be taken to Belfast, passing through 
 the ancient town of Carrickfergus, which is situated on the bay of 
 the same name, also called Belfast Lough. The principal objects 
 of interest in the town are the Castle and the Church. 
 
 The Castle of Carrickfergus is one of the noblest and most 
 perfect fortresses of the olden time now remaining in Ireland. Sir 
 John de Courcy is believed to have founded it in the latter part of 
 the twelfth century. It is situated on a rock about thirty feet 
 high, projecting boldly into the sea, by which it is surrounded on 
 three sides. The entrance from the land side is by an arched 
 gateway and massive door, with a portcullis. The doorway is 
 flanked on each side by an immense semicircular tower. A high 
 and strong boundary Avail, with embrasures for artillery, surrounds 
 the entire fortress. The ballium, or keep, is ninety feet high, and 
 the walls nine feet thick : from the top a splendid view is obtained, 
 extending, on a clear day, to the Mourne Mountains and the 
 Scotch coast. The castle contains a barrack, bomb-proof maga- 
 zine, and ordnance store-rooms. Some years since, a total change 
 was made in the defence of the Castle, and cannon of a very large 
 calibre were mounted, which command the entrance of the Lough. 
 The general appearance of the Castle is that of the early Saxon 
 structures in Ireland, built entirely for strength, without any 
 attempt at ornament, but possessing a massive dignity and 
 grandeur. 
 
 In 1575 a wall sixteen feet high and seven thick, with seven 
 bastions, to surround the town, was commenced, and completed in 
 

 
ULSTER. 119 
 
 the year 1008 : a considerable portion of the wall is still standing, 
 and one of the four entrance gates. On the 14th of June, 1G90, 
 King William III. landed here with his army, twelve days before 
 the battle of the Boyne. The rock on which the king stepped on 
 landing is at the end of the quay, projecting from it, and still 
 forming the landing-place. 
 
 The parish Church of St. Nicholas, part of which is said to have 
 been built in 11G4-, on the site of a pagan temple, is a fine old 
 building. It is a massive cruciform structure, with an attached 
 tower, from the summit of which rises an octagonal spire. The 
 interior is very beautiful, the east or chancel window being 
 enriched with a grand stained-glass representation of the baptism 
 of the Saviour by St. John. The church contains some interesting 
 monuments to the Chichester family. "One erected in 1625 has 
 kneeling figures of Sir Arthur, the founder of the family, and his 
 lady. Between them lies the figure of their infant son, and below 
 is the effigy of Sir John Chichester. Heraldic emblems decorate 
 the tomb." 
 
 Belfast is about ten miles from Carrickfergus. This great sea- 
 port stands at the embouchure of the Lagan, at the head of Belfast 
 Lough, twelve miles from the Irish Sea. The site is low, being- 
 little more than six feet above the level of the sea at spring tides, 
 notwithstanding which the town is generally considered healthy. 
 On the land side it is picturesquely bounded by the ridges of 
 Divis and Cave Hill. The general appearance of the town is indi- 
 cative of business and prosperity, combining the trade and manu- 
 facture of Glasgow and Manchester, with less of their smoke and 
 dirt. 
 
 Belfast cannot claim any high degree of antiquity ; up to a 
 
120 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 comparatively recent period it was a place of little consequence. 
 Few towns, however, have progressed in importance so rapidly. In 
 1747 there were only three vessels, of 198 tons burden collectively, 
 employed in the cross-channel trade ; in 1870 the tonnage 
 amounted to 1,225,000 tons. In 1821 the inhabitants numbered 
 only 37,000; in 1871 they amounted to 175,394. The most 
 important branch of commerce is the channel trade, above forty 
 steamers plying regularly between Belfast and the chief ports of 
 England and Scotland, besides Dublin and Deny. The foreign 
 trade is also extensive. The chief exports are linen and cotton 
 goods, grain, yarn, flax, tow, cattle, and provisions. 
 
 The staple manufactures are linen and cotton. In 1870 there 
 were 154 factories, employing 55,000 hands. The other chief 
 branches of industry are linen and cotton weaving, bleaching, dye- 
 ing, calico-printing, and iron-founding. There are also many flour 
 and oil-mills, chemical works, breweries, ship-building, rope and 
 sail-cloth yards. 
 
 Many of the streets are wide and well built, especially towards 
 the exterior of the town. The mercantile quarter lies chiefly near 
 the extensive and handsome quays. The manufactories are mostly 
 on the north and west of the town. A few of the public build- 
 ings, which are numerous and good, may be indicated. 
 
 Queen's College is a beautiful structure in the Tudor style, 
 opened in 1849. The entire length of the building is 600 feet ; 
 it consists of a centre of 300 feet, and two wings, each 150 feet. 
 The halls, lecture-rooms, museums, and other apartments, are 
 spacious and well lighted. The building stands in the centre of a 
 fine park, many acres in extent, with grounds which afford ample 
 exercise for the professors and students. The New Custom House 
 
ULSTER. 121 
 
 is one of the largest structures in Belfast. The building was com- 
 menced towards the close of 1854, and finished in 1857. It is 
 constructed entirely of stone, in the Italian style. The edifice 
 affords accommodation for several branches of the public service. 
 The Court House, opened in 1850, is a magnificent building, 
 situated immediately opposite the new prison. 
 
 Belfast Museum, erected in 1830, is built in the Classic style, 
 and displays much good taste in the execution of the design. It 
 contains many interesting Irish antiquities found in the neighbour- 
 hood, and also many natural curiosities. The internal arrange- 
 ments of the Museum are good, and highly creditable to the 
 enterprise of the shareholders. The Botanic Gardens, situated at 
 a short distance beyond the Queen's College, and on the bank of 
 the river Lagan, are well laid out, and contain the rarest shrubs 
 and flowers, with a fine collection of the heaths found in the Irish 
 bogs. The Gardens comprise about seventeen acres of land. 
 
 We have no space to describe the linen halls, commercial and 
 corn exchanges, the flax mills and linen warehouses, banks, 
 churches and chapels, and charitable institutions, — all of which 
 are in keeping with the chief seat of the trade and manufactures 
 of Ireland. A good bird's-eye view of Belfast and its environs 
 may be obtained from Cave Hill, about three miles north of the 
 town. The Hill is chiefly interesting on account of its geological 
 structure, being composed of limestone and basalt. The view of 
 Belfast Lough from Cave Hill is exceedingly fine, commanding 
 the whole of the Lough, the greater part of County Down, and in 
 clear weather the coast of Scotland. 
 
 There are many places of interest around Belfast to which 
 excursions might be made if time permitted. As far as we are 
 
i22 SCENERY IN IRELAND. 
 
 now concerned, our road must be homeward, diverging from the 
 direct route to Dublin to visit the seat of the Archiepiscopal See 
 of the Primate and Metropolitan of all Ireland. 
 
 The City of Armagh has been a place of importance from time 
 immemorial. St. Patrick is said to have founded a church there 
 about the year 457 ; since which time it has remained the chief 
 ecclesiastical city in Ireland. He also founded the Monastery of 
 SS. Peter and Paul, for Canons Regular of the Order of St. Augus- 
 tine. Armagh, from the year 495 to the ninth century, was the 
 metropolis of Ireland, the native kings living at Emania, two 
 miles to the west of the city. It was then renowned as a school 
 of theology and literature, its college being the first in Europe. 
 This institution received numerous grants and endowments from 
 the native kings, the last of whom, Roderick O'Connor, made a 
 grant to its professors in the year 1169. The annals of Ulster 
 state that, at a synod held by Gelasius, at Claonadh, in 1162, it 
 was decreed that no person should lecture publicly on theology 
 except such as studied at Armagh. In the year 1004, the cele- 
 brated Brian Boroimhe entered the city, when he presented at the 
 altar of the church a collar of gold weighing twenty ounces ; and 
 where, after his death at the battle of Clontarf, agreeably to his 
 dying request, he was interred, together with the remains of his 
 son and grandson. The town suffered severely, at various epochs, 
 from fire and warfare. 
 
 Independently of its historical associations, there are many 
 features about Armagh and its environs worthy of notice. It is 
 situated round the base and on the slopes of a gentle eminence, 
 hence its original name, Ard-Magha, " the high field." Its ancient 
 Cathedral crowns the summit of the hill. This church is the 
 
' 
 
 
ULSTER. 123 
 
 shell of the building erected about 1270, restored from ruin, and 
 strengthened, but having all its ancient architectural features either 
 retained or reproduced. This restoration was carried out by Lord 
 Primate Beresford, who died at the advanced age of ninety, in 
 July, 1862. His grace contributed a princely sum towards the 
 work of reparation of the cathedral. 
 
 The city is for the most part built of limestone, and the streets 
 are paved with the same material, which gives a remarkably clean 
 and solid look to the place. Altogether, Armagh is one of the 
 nicest towns in Ireland. 
 
 We must here reluctantly bring our brief rambles in Ireland to 
 a close. In that favoured land the lover of the picturesque finds 
 a charming diversity in its marvellous cliff and coast scenery, its 
 majestic mountains, noble rivers, and extensive lakes. Truly, 
 there is no such contented happiness to be enjoyed as when gazing 
 on the beauties of nature : and nowhere can this enjoyment be 
 realised more completely than in the Sister Isle. At every step 
 the visitor recognises the consoling fact that the power of nature 
 cannot be nullified by the folly, nor her beauty be altogether' 
 subdued by the misery or selfishness of man. 
 
 The motive of this little book is recreative, not political or 
 economical. Still one cannot look back upon a country so beau- 
 tiful without hoping and believing there must be better times in 
 store for her ; without indulging the aspiration that the Island 
 may be as happy and prosperous as it is lovely in aspect ; and that 
 man may do something more for the land for which nature has 
 done so much. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Aghada, 39. 
 
 Aghadoe, 65. 
 
 Antrim, 105. 
 
 Arbutus Island (Killarney), 54, 
 
 Plants, 63, 
 Arklow, 31. 
 Armagh, 122. 
 
 Cathedral, 122. 
 Askeaton, 81. 
 
 Ballycastle, 113. 
 Ballyshannon, 93, 94. 
 Bantry Bay, 35. 
 
 Town, 49, 
 Barnesmore Pass, 101. 
 Belfast, 119. 
 
 Lough, 118, 119, 121, 
 Belleek, 93. 
 
 Bells of Shandon (Cork), 38. 
 Bengore Head, 112. 
 Black Eock Castle, 37. 
 Black Valley (Killarney), 69. 
 Blackwater River, 43. 
 Blarney, 40. 
 
 Castle, 40. 
 
 Groves of, 40, 41. 
 
 Stone, 40, 41. 
 Bray, 13. 
 Bundoran, 94. 
 
 Carrantuel, 70. 
 
 Carrick-a-Rede Chasm (Antrim), 112. 
 
 Carrickfergus, 118. 
 
 Castle and Church, 118, 119. 
 
 Castle-Connel, 79. 
 
 Castle Howard (Vale of Ovoca), 29. 
 
 Cave HiU (Belfast), 121. 
 
 Clontarf, 7. 
 
 Cloyne, 39. 
 
 Coom-na-Goppel, 71. 
 
 Cork, County, 35. 
 
 City, 37. 
 
 Harbour, 35, 
 Cushendall, 116. 
 Cushendun, 116. 
 
 Dalkey, 10. 
 
 Dargle, Glen of the (Wicklow), 14. 
 
 Deel, River, 81. 
 
 Delgany, 19. 
 
 Derry, 102, 104. 
 
 Derrycunnihy Cascade, 55. 
 
 Devenish Island, 90. 
 
 Devil's Glen (Wicklow), 19. 
 
 Devil's Punch-bowl (Killarney), 71. 
 
 Dinis Island, 56, 
 
 Donegal, Town, 98. 
 
 Castle, 99, 
 
 Abbey, 99. 
 Doonas, Falls of, 78. 
 Downs, Glen of the (Wicklow), 18. 
 Dublin, 3. 
 
 Bay, 7, 11. 
 Dunkerry Cave, 108. 
 Dunloe, Cave of, 6^. 
 
 Gap of, 67. 
 Dunluce Castle, 106. 
 Dunran, Pass of, 20. ' 
 Dunseverick Castle, 112. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 125 
 
 Eagle's Nest, the (Killarney), 55. 
 
 Ennis, 81. 
 
 Enniskerry, 13. 
 
 Enniskillen, 90. 
 
 Erne, Lough, 90, 92. 
 
 Esk, River, 98, 99. 
 
 Fair Head, 115. 
 Fergus River, 81. 
 Foyne-', 81. 
 
 Gap of Dunloe, 67. 
 Giant's Causeway, 110. 
 
 Amphitheatre, 111. 
 
 Causeways, 110. 
 
 Chimney -tops, 111. 
 
 Dunkerry Cave, 108. 
 
 Gateway, 110. 
 
 Loom, 110. 
 
 Organ, 110. 
 
 Pleaskin, 111. 
 
 Portcoon Cave, 107. 
 
 Steucans, 108. 
 Glenarm, 117. 
 Glenhrook, 37. 
 Glencree, Valley of, 18. 
 Glendalough, Vale of, 22. 
 Glengariff, 49, 50. 
 Glenmalure, 28. 
 Glen of the Downs, 18. 
 Gougane Barra, 50. 
 Grey Man's Path, 115. 
 
 Ilaulhowline Island, 36. 
 
 Holy Island, Lough Derg (Donegal), 97- 
 
 Howth, 7. 
 
 Ahbey, 7. 
 
 Castle, 8. 
 
 College, 8. 
 
 Harhour, 9. 
 
 Hill, 9. 
 
 Lighthouse, 9. 
 
 Innisfallen, 63. 
 
 Abbey, 63. 
 Ireland's Eye, 10. 
 " Island Magee," 117. 
 
 Keimaneigh, Pass of, 51. 
 Kenbane Head, 113. 
 Kcnmare, 50. 
 Kilbarron Castle, 95. 
 Kilkce, 83. 
 
 Cave of, 83. 
 
 Puffing Rock, 84. 
 
 Killaloe, 81. 
 
 Killarney, Routes to, 49 — 51. 
 
 Islands, 53, 56, 60, 63, 65. 
 
 Lakes, 51, 54, 55,56,59. 
 Killiney Hill, 11. 
 Kilrush, 83. 
 Kingstown, 10. 
 
 Harbour, 10. 
 Kippure Mountains, 18. 
 
 Lambay Island, 10. 
 Larne, 117. 
 Laune, River, 53. 
 Lee, River, 37. 
 Liffey, River, 3. 
 Limerick, City, 73. 
 Lismore, 44. 
 
 Castle, 44. 
 Long Range (Killarney), 52, 55. 
 Londonderry, 102. 
 Lough Allua, 50. 
 
 Bray, 18. 
 
 Dan, 21. 
 
 Derg (Clare), 81. 
 
 Derg (Donegal), 97- 
 
 Esk, 98, 100. 
 
 Erne, 90, 92. 
 
 Foyle, 103. 
 
 Guitane, 72. 
 
 Mourne, 101. 
 
 Tay, 21. 
 Lover's Leap, the (Wicklow), 14. 
 Luggelaw, 21. 
 
 McCarthy Mores, the, 57. 
 Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 70. 
 Malahide, 10. 
 
 Castle, 10. 
 Mangerton, 71. 
 Marino, 7. 
 
 Meeting of the "Waters, the, 29. 
 Moher, Cliffs of, 85. 
 Monkstown, 36. 
 Moore's, Tom, birthplace, 6. 
 
 Statue of, 6. 
 Mount Charles, 100. 
 Mount Melleray Abbey, 46. 
 Muckross Abbey, 57. 
 
 House, 59. 
 Mullingar, 90. 
 
 Nelson Monument, 5. 
 Newton Mount Kennedy, 19. 
 
126 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 O'Donoghue of the Lakes, 62. 
 Ovoca, Vale of, 29. 
 
 Passage, 37. 
 
 Pleaskin (Giant's Causeway), 111. 
 Portcoon Cave, 107. 
 Powerscourt, 16. 
 
 Waterfall, 16. 
 Pullins Gap, the, 95. 
 Purple Mountain, 67- 
 
 Queenstown, 36. 
 
 Rabbit Island, 59. 
 
 Rathlin, or Raghery Island, 114. 
 
 Reeks, MacgillicudcLy's, 70. 
 
 Rosanna, 20. 
 
 Ross Bridges (Clare), 84. 
 
 Ross Castle (Killarney), 61. 
 
 Island, 60. 
 Round Towers, 24. 
 Roundwood, 21. 
 
 St. Kevin, 22, 26. 
 
 Bed of, 27, 28. 
 Kitchen, 25. 
 Legend of, 26, 27. 
 
 St. Patrick's Purgatory, 97. 
 St. Senanus, 82. 
 
 Legend of, 82, 83. 
 Scalp, the, 13. 
 Scattery Island, 82. 
 Shannon, River, 77, 81. 
 Spike Island, 36. 
 Station Island (Donegal), 97. 
 Steucans, the, 108. 
 Swords, 10. 
 
 Tarbert, 82. 
 
 Tolka, River, 6. 
 
 Tomies, the, 67- . 
 
 Tore Mountain (Killarney), 56. 
 
 Cascade, 56. 
 
 Lake, 56. 
 
 Vale of Ovoca, 29. 
 Vartry, River, 20. 
 
 "Wellington Testimonial, Dublin, 5. 
 White Rocks, 105. 
 Wicklow, County, 12. 
 Wooden Bridge, 30. 
 
 Yew-tree, Muckross Abbey, 57. 
 Youghal, 42. 
 
 PKIKTED BY VlttTUE AND CO., CITY KOAD, LONDON'. 
 

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